# Light weight track table ????????



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

Not wanting to Hi-Jack TxRonHarris' post " Smaller Track Plans and Ideas" , I'm posting this for more info .

I questioned D-Slot as to the possibility of a small track design and he submitted on on post #9 . I have desided to build that track . I also plan to take it to Rod Runs to do a little pr for the hobby. 

I'm now looking for a lightweight table to build the track on . Keeping in mind this will be moved around , besides lightweight , I'll also nee durability .

Does anyone have any ideas for me here ?

Thank you D-Slot for the layout .
Thx ,
Gonzo


----------



## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Barring finding some sort of plastic banquet table that fits those dimensions, you basically need to go with some sort of plywood. OSB or particle board is fine if the track isnt going anywhere but it'll get all munched up on the corners if you're moving it around.

Best bet is to go to Lowes (or whatever), and take a look around at the different grades of plywood they have and go from there. You can buy folding banquet table legs there too. 

At 6 by 3 it'll still take a guy on each end to carry it no matter what you make it out of, so I wouldn't worry about lightening it too much. Use good sturdy wood. Even 5/8ths plywood at 6 x 3 isn't that tough to move.


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

I follow you with the beefyness . However , it must be handleable with one guy < Me > . 

I was thinking plywood but was in the Lauan area . Orrrrr , maybe 2'' foam used in construction . Radiused corners and the whole thing wrapped with masonite . 

My biggest obsticle is keeping it from twisting and pulling the track while moving it .

I'm sure someones been having these track iissues before .

Thx for your reply .

Gonzo


----------



## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Did someone say "light weight?" "Handleable with one guy?"










This one's about 30"x80", a little narrower than yours. 21 pounds here. A bit more after adding front and side fascia. The story of building it is *here* and in the photos (Photobucket album) linked to in the first post. Planning it is in this *earlier thread*. (Don't bother to mention the lack of socks. We've already been down that road.)

It's mostly foamcore on a 2-ft. wide hollow-core door. 








You said in the *Smaller Track Plans* thread that you didn't want another door layout - I don't know why you said that, but in terms of rigidity at low weight, hollow-core doors are hard to beat. You'll have to carry the power supply and controllers and buildings or trees separately. Also legs - a plastic folding table, or two folding card-tables, or three or four folding TV trays should do it

My terrain is paper stiffened with white glue, but if I had to carry it to events, I think I'd use Bill Hall's foam rubber scenery, as described in the Foam Scape thread (too bad the pictures are gone; maybe Bill could dig up a couple to show how it looks). This is not rigid insulating foam board, but the squishy foam rubber in seat-cushions and bed-pads. It can take a hit and bounce right back.

The lessons I learned were:
1. Never mind how good it looks on paper - before you commit to a track plan, set it up and drive it with the car types you intend to use. If it doesn't feel good, fiddle with it until it does.

2. On a small layout, reducing the input voltage (say from 22v to 16v) can make a much better driving and racing experience.

3. Measure twice, cut once.

4. Always wear socks. (I sleep in mine now).​
There are more ideas on lightweight layouts *here*. You can also do a search on the forum for words like "light weight" and "portable." Don't bother with Hobbytalk's slack-jawed Search window; go to Google and add *site:hobbytalk.com/bbs1* after your search terms.

-- D


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

Your saying that your track is "sqishy" foam on top of a hollw core door ?

I'm eliminating scenery .

21 pounds is comfortable .

I haven't looked at any of the links you supplied yet . However , while I'm here I'll ask you what type of glue is used on the foam ? Now I'll read the links .

Those are good lessons to be learned . 

Thank you for all your help . I appreciate it .

Oh , I didn't even notice the lack of socks . I was too interested in the track ! LOL

Thx DeSlot ,
Gonzo


----------



## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

gonegonzo said:


> Your saying that your track is "sqishy" foam on top of a hollw core door ?


Noooope. No, no, no. I guess I should have been more clear.

I'm saying Bill's foam scenery method used squishy foam rubber for hills, cliffs, etc. And I'd probably try that technique instead of my paper method, if I had to move the layout from home to public events and back (instead of the 15 feet from the table to the garage). Traveling layouts get knocked around, and the springy foam scenery will bounce back to its original shape.

*My* layout is made of *foamcore board* on top of a hollow-core door (with paper scenery on top of that). Foamcore board is an art and display material made of a thick layer of semi-rigid plastic foam in between two thin layers of hard paper. Available by the sheet at all art-supply and craft stores, some supermarkets, discount stores, etc. And online in larger quantities. It's stiff, but cuts easily with a sharp X-acto knife, and is less prone to warping from moisture than paper-based boards. Standard thickness is 3/16" (the same as a piece of Tomy track). 1/8" and 1/2" also available but less easy to find. Common sheet sizes are 20x30 and 30x40". 

It's the white stuff in the picture above. You can dent it, but it's not squishy and resilient like the foam-rubber I mentioned.



> I haven't looked at any of the links you supplied yet. However, while I'm here I'll ask you what type of glue is used on the foam ?


For foamcore board, I use white glue (like Elmer's), sometimes with the pieces temporarily weighted or pinned to each other while the glue sets. Hot glue works, too. For the first layer, I put a bead of white glue around the edges and from corner to corner, and nailed the sheets to the solid edges of the hollow door. I piled a couple of books on the middle for good measure while it dried.

For flexible (squishy) foam rubber, I'd guess white glue (or hot glue, if it didn't melt the foam) too, but you need to ask someone who actually has worked with it.



> Now I'll read the links.


Yes, it's explained more fully there and the pictures should tell you a lot. 

-- D


----------



## SDMedanic (Apr 21, 2011)

Built a lightweight 3' x 10' track as an experiment once. 1 x 3 framing on 24 inch centers. 3/8 plywood top. Track was a four lane oval with built in lapcounter/timer. All you needed was to run the wires to your favorite power supply. The track was not hard to pick up and was awkward but moveable by one person.


----------



## Mister12tooth (Jul 18, 2006)

Gonzo, any carpenters in your race group? They might be able to help you out.


Jeff


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

There seems to be one burned out one Mr 12 Tooth . 

Nice seeing you Jeff . I'll probably see you Saturday but I can't stay for the race .

Gonzo / aka Tom D


----------



## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Words to live by D...*



Dslot said:


> Always wear socks and don't bother with Hobbytalk's slack-jawed Search window.-- D


Especially the use of... *site:hobbytalk.com/bbs1* after your search terms on a search engine. :thumbsup::thumbsup: That's one of the best tips yet on HT... I can't tell you how many aborted efforts I've started and then just given up using the on-site search alone.

Back on the lightweight theme though... My first _"re-entry into slots"_ layout back in 2001 was made of Owens pink foam board. I think it was 2 inches thick. I had 2 pcs glued together at about 5 feet long by 3 feet wide. To strengthen the joint I drilled holes into the edges of each and doweled them when I glued them. It had thin indoor/outdoor carpet glued to it and black duct tape as a border. I would set up on it and break it down as needed and it was very light. I was almost going to countersink the track into it and go that route, but I decided to go table-style and more permanent, fastened down on plywood and a small hollow core door base. That was also pretty light. The foam is pretty rigid stuff though.


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

TJD , 
Thx for the reply .

I was thinking about the foam too . 

What glue did you use ?

Thx 
Gonzo


----------



## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

There is a foam panel glue that comes in caulk gun cartriges (Home Depot). Don't know the specific mfg/name... might have been one of the umpteen Liquid Nails products. It's made for the stuff. Other glues "might" work, but for a special project like this I'd really recommend the right stuff for the job. Foam may come wider too, but I didn't look too hard for it. The dowels were important though. Otherwise I would worry about that long glue joint on it's own trying to hold both sheets together. It's easy enough to trace a track outline on it right from the track itself and it's pretty easy to carve with a sharp straight blade. :thumbsup:


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

The thicker foam 1", 1 1/2" and 2" comes in 4' X 8' sheets. After trying various scenery methods, my method of choice is the foam. It's tough enough to handle traffic, you can sculpt it rather easily (provided there is good support under it) and for scenery usage you can cut out templates from newspaper and do all the cutting and sculpting outside or in the garage if you have one. It is sorta messy sanding it, but it's quick work and makes a very realistic base. You're only limited by your imagination. 

For the top coats, I simply painted over the sanded foam with white latex ( error paint at Wally World) mixed with some brown craft paint (Wally World .99 cent bottles) and sprinkled ground cover (ground up green foam) over the wet paint. You can spray that with diluted white glue (find a bottle that mists good) and resprinkle the this areas. Vacuum up the stray bits and you'll have rather realistic grassy knolls and hills. 

Best part of this method is the glue/paint leaves a pretty durable shell that can handle most wrecks. Metal pinned magnet cars may break through it, but T Jets never did on my table. Also, poking a hole in the foam with an awl is an easy way to plant trees. Cut the goofy bases off the bottoms, poke your hole, dab a touch of hot melt glue on and shove the tree base in. Perfect!!


----------



## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

Gonzo....

I am getting back into the hobby full bore again after a three year hiatus and I am looking to do something like you are as well.

I just moved into a pretty good sized apartment.Matter of fact,when I looked at the place when I was apt shopping,as soon as i saw the living room,my absolute first two thoughts were "slot cars and rc helis".

The person who despised my hobbys the most,my wife,is now an ex.The world is truly my oyster.

I have one of those small walmart folding tables that I use as a desk.The dimensions on it are 2' by 4'.

My last permanent layout was a 4 X 16 4 laner.So that table alone is way too small for me personally.

So now I am thinking why not do something modular and use three or four tables?
Kind of the same way that model railroad guys do those modular layouts.

I have enough room here where I could knock the tables down when not in use and slide them under a bed or behind the sofa.

Coming up with ways to connect the modules would be about the biggest thing to figure out.

Where I am at right now is after my last track build,which was tomy sectional,I think I have had about enough of fiddling with sectional track and jumper wires and all of that.

Routing a track is not something that really interests me.I just cant do it here for one.So I will probably wait and do something with a max track type track.I need to shop around and see whats out there.

Or just say the heck with it and make the big switch to 1:32 digital.

I just turned 51.Probably spent 30 or more of those years messing with slots.And it never gets old.:wave:

Mike


----------



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Hey stranger:wave:
Good to see you back in action again Mike:thumbsup:

Rick


----------



## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

look at the train club modules. Those have an offset before that module's track starts. I was thinking about 7.5 inches in our case so that a 15 in track will work. This will not work in the case of tabbed AFX track. Needs to be able to connect straight onward. 

I used to carrige bolts with washers and wing nuts for my lay out tables and would work well in modular designs also. 

http://s169.beta.photobucket.com/us...t=3&o=95&_suid=135578542419106062028831165527


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

Welcome back Mike .

Thx fot the replys HT members .

I've desided to stay with the hollow core doors for the rigidity . 

I'll maybe add some foam to the bottom to muffle the noise .

Gonzo


----------



## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

Hornet said:


> Hey stranger:wave:
> Good to see you back in action again Mike:thumbsup:
> 
> Rick


Thanks.....back for good now.See ya around.So many questions:wave::thumbsup::wave:

Mike


----------



## ggnagy (Aug 16, 2010)

Black Oxxpurple said:


> look at the train club modules. Those have an offset before that module's track starts. I was thinking about 7.5 inches in our case so that a 15 in track will work. This will not work in the case of tabbed AFX track. Needs to be able to connect straight onward.


Why would it not work with AFX/Tomy? Set 2 modules with ~ 1/2- 3/4 inch gap, put connector(s) in place so as to be lined up to join. Then, close the gap and the track should lock into place. 

Btw, on many modular standards (like NTRAK) where track was cut to fit a defined length, offests and drop in connector tracks rule the day. There are some newer modular standards, T-Trak for example, where set length pieces are used and the offset is negative for some small amount. If, for example, you were working with slot car track, a table length of 35 1/2" would let you put 36" of straight on the table with a 1/4" overhanging each end. Care would have to be taken, of course, to protect the overhanging track during storage and transport, but workable. 

In either scenario, L&J would be easiest for a modular system.


----------



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

If it's properly doweled,cut the tabs right off the end track pieces,and just butt the track together.
My old Tyco was a 3 piece modular design,and that's all i did.
Filled the cut end pieces with bondo so they had some ridgity and strength.
The track all stayed on the table when broken down:thumbsup:


----------



## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

Guess if it is only two lane it will not matter, but it would if doing a four lane setup, as the tracks would be setting side by side. Lots of logistics to work out but would be fun in any case.


Rob


----------



## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

I have been kicking this folding table ideas around in my head now for a week or two.

Last week I went out into the shed at work where we store junk that gets in the way(I'm chef of a restaurant)and saw some folding walmart tables we use for outdoor events and that sort of thing.

They measured out to 8 x 3.

I could do three tables in my place.But two is more reasonable.They would easily slide behind my couch and the wall and not be noticed.

In an "L"configuration,I could make a pretty fast track,one nice long straight.And then the rest.

But as I said before.After so many years of playing with sectional track,tweaking it and doing all of the things I need to do to make it to my liking just seems like drudgery at this point.

Maybe a Max.....

The battle rages on.....

Mike


----------



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Mike there's also Wizztrac manufactured and sold by Wizzard HO.

http://www.wizzardho.com/Main.htm

It's along the same lines as Max,but with the benefit of actually getting a track when you order it.
Dave at Maxtrac doesn't have a great reputation when it comes to timely delivery of a track
Rick


----------



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

my buddy Hank finally got his Max after a year and some months. communications were spotty and reasons for delay were never clear. but, it would appear that Dave is back in business and any one who has owned a Max has really like it. most who have raced on one too. I would do a bunch of emailing with Dave to see if he really has mended his communication skills before dumping a deposit of half the product price. Wiz ( and I am friends with Cheryl, Bob and RC) has difficulties on occasion with delivery dates but always answers correspondence. I have heard the TKO guy is back up and running after having to close his brick and mortar store which apparently never really got off the ground and just took all his time to try. haven't heard much pro or con on the TKO except it dents easily. I am waiting on my Wiz dragstrip as we speak and it is certainly overdue, however, Cheryl is good about keeping me advised of progress.
I would have to sell half what I own (see 'per skylark ...' in general forum) in order to fit a circuit/roundyround track. that ain't happenin. 
so it seems manufacturers are in the scheme together as far as making us wait and I hear Paul Kniffen (resin bodies) is about to dip his toe in the track manufacturing pool.
in any case, have a very Merry Christmas and a safe, healthy Happy New Year.


----------



## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

Al and Rick.....

Id like to discuss this further with you guys.But I will start a thread of my own in the main forum,as I dont want to steer this thread off track to much as I did not start it and I too am really interested in seeing what other ideas people have for the original topic of this thread.

Al:I did back track and read the thread on your slot collection.

As a guy who has just become a bachelor,and all of this space I have is mine to do with as I please,well,I totally get it and I tip my hat to you.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Mike


----------



## okracer (Mar 11, 2002)

check out hoslotcarraceing.com they have a section on modular track and conectors to use and everything


----------

