# Paint Poll



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey Folks,
It's all about painting cars.
There has been a lot of discussion about paint, which brands, how to's and what nots. There are so many talented painters on this board, I thought it might be interesting to have a place to post some data for general use. This poll is focused on spray paint, with a category for all you air brushers out there. I tried to include all the major brands and lines. This isn't about which is the best brand, or best method, just what you like. Feel free to post your tips, techniques, and whether or not you use clear coat. 

Which kind of paint do you prefer to use?


Dupli-Color lacquer
Krylon enamel
Plasti-kote enamel
Plasti-kote lacquer
Rustoleum enamel
Testors enamel
Testors lacquer
Air brush
Other


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

I used krylon and rust!

Wes


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Wal Mart used to sell House of Colors "KUSTOM KOLOR" paint for hobby airbrushing but, that was then and now it is pretty much all gone. A few Hobby Stores have the left overs. When I was in Las Vegas I picked up over a $100.00 worth of "KUSTOM KOLOR" bottles to add to my supply. Yankee you are very lucky to have that Hobby Store by you...woah it has everything. 

I love the stuff!!!!!!!!! The Transparent Candy Red and Orange are my Favorites of the KUSTOM KOLORS but, they all ROCK! Was very lucky that the Economy was good when Wal Mart decided to DUMP the paint and picked up lots of it...Wheeeeeeeeeeew that is a load off of my brain.  Paint is a way of life for me.

Now my second favorite paint to spray in my Airbrush is Testors. Partialy as it is readily available and partialy because, they have lots of Awesom colors. Testors has been around a long time & grew up using it to build 1/24th car models with as a kid.

Flat Black....you can't go wrong with it. I use this for all my black detail work and then just use Future for a final clear to bring it up to gloss status. 

Testors Chrome Silver trim paint is what I use for all my silver painting. It comes in the bigger jar. Not the small ones. The small bottles are what I get for my flat paint brush detailing. 

Putting paint on with a paint brush for detailing headlights, turnsignals, brake lights and other trim all gets done with Testors for me. Flats are better than gloss for me as they can be applied with a dry brush. 

Dry Brush means just that. Get most of the paint out of the brush. Only what you need as not to get any build up on the surface. I dip and dry several times to paint a surface and move fast to get a smooth over all coverage. Testors Chrome Silver trim paint and Flat black work wonders if you don't over apply them. :thumbsup:

Airbrushing with Testors: Hey it takes paint to paint so, don't be a cheapskate. If you are going to airbrush then get ready to buy paint Thinner (I get the Testors $10.00 can) paint in the larger bottles and I use (this is an exception to the cheap part...lol) Acetone from the hardware store to keep my airbrush clean after every spray.

Paint does go bad so, if your flats get globby throw them away. I went to use some Testors one day in the bigger bottles and it went globby on me. It was a rubber ball of paint....stuff happens. Move on and get over it.

I love to paint!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :woohoohssssssssssssssssht!! :wave:

Used Krylon spray can on a dare last year. LOL Pumkin Orange for a Hooters sand van and it came out great. What ever works...............Yeah!

Bob...is it summer yet?...zilla


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Uuuuum did I say to much? lol*



WesJY said:


> I used krylon and rust!
> 
> Wes


Wes,

I should have just said this...:jest:

Bob...have many Westorations and they are great...zilla


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Wow, Looks like the airbrush is the way to go by the poll votes. I guess it's time to update the shop. Normally I don't let the boys paint in here, but for demonstration purposes, here goes. WalMart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc., usually have some leftover or miss mixed paints you can get pretty cheap. Just be sure and get them to reshake the paint before using it. Also colors may vary...RM
P.S. Be sure and get the low nap rollers for a smoother finish. If the body is rough, I'd suggest the medium nap.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*roll on...*

Randy,

"U" crack me up...hahahahahahha

:jest::jest::jest::jest::jest::jest::jest::jest:

Bob...hahahahhahaa...zilla


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## win43 (Aug 28, 2006)

TOO FUNNY :lol:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

I like duplicolor products through my airbrush...

but voted for airbrush....maximum control....minimum waste....very few misfires


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

MWAAA HA HA HA!

Man I need to build a shop. And get a decent camera.

--rick


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

As brilliant as Randy is with painting & customizing slot cars, it is still nice to see he has a screw loose like the rest of us humanoids.


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## 2.8powerranger (Dec 13, 2004)

actual automotive base coat clear coat,and some acrylic enamel for me


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

Whatever happened to the category " All of the above" ?????


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

2.8powerranger said:


> actual automotive base coat clear coat,and some acrylic enamel for me


I guess this falls under the "other" category? Any pics?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I hear nothing but good things about Dupli-color, but, I've had nothing but bad luck with it. I always get a dull finish. Multiple colors, warm the can or not, use primer or not, the finish always comes out flat. Is this intended? Do they all require a clear coat?

It also takes multiple coats.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

My vote is for Duplicolor, but Plasticote works well too. Lacquer only, as I don't care for the dry time of enamel. Rich, the only thing I can suggest as far as the stuff winding up flat, is the base you're using. I bought a can of white primer, and shot 5 dud paint jobs in a row using it for a base. They all came out flat. My advice is try one of the following. Buy a can of silver Duplicolor (get the big truck size can) and use that for your base instead of primer. Be sure the body is clean, and that it goes on smooth. Most of the duplicolor and plasticote paints are semi transparent, so the base color will effect the final color. I also highly recommend the Metalcast color chrome paints. They have thinned out the selection at Autozone and Advance Auto, but it is still available at Jegs. These are the only enamels I use, and I shoot them over either the silver Metalcast base coat or Duplicolor silver lacquer. I really don't use clear much, I find Future is easier to play with.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I hear nothing but good things about Dupli-color, but, I've had nothing but bad luck with it. I always get a dull finish. Multiple colors, warm the can or not, use primer or not, the finish always comes out flat. Is this intended? Do they all require a clear coat?
> 
> It also takes multiple coats.


 A lot of the cans have a CC after the color, Clear Coat required. Heat the clear up, same as the color. Just run it under some hot water. They sell both enamel and lacquer base. I'd suggest stay with the same type paints. I use the lacquer base products. If you use automotiver type paints, basecoat/clearcoats, polyurethanes, etc., it's a new ballgame...RM


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## SplitPoster (May 16, 2006)

The boys in the shop with the paint roller is FUNNY! With all the work they put through there it's nice to see they know how to let off steam.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Tamiya whenever possible. Other brands Testors/Duplicolor here and there. Future on all.


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## 706hemi (Oct 23, 2009)

yep, i use tamiya acrylics too, dont smell as bad as enamels plus there shelf life cant be beaten, i still have some that survived since i was a kid!


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Acrylics, let's go there. I forgot this category completely.
Is this where all the "Other" votes are going?


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

i agree about tamiya acrylics.great paint,clean up with water,etc.also another one that may work good for slotcars are inks.they thin well,and don't lose their vibrance.great for washes,glazing,etc.


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## Dyno (Jan 26, 2009)

I use Spies Hecker Automotive Acrylic Urethanes, sprayed through a Mini Sata Jet HVLP spray gun in a heated down draft spray booth and usually force dry the cars at 170 degrees air temp...lol, a bit overkill for a slot car, but I have the equipment and they come out great.


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## shocker36 (Jul 5, 2008)

Faskolor works great too especially on lexan it has a flexing agent in it the doesn't cause the paint to pop like pactra paint.


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## 2.8powerranger (Dec 13, 2004)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I hear nothing but good things about Dupli-color, but, I've had nothing but bad luck with it. I always get a dull finish. Multiple colors, warm the can or not, use primer or not, the finish always comes out flat. Is this intended? Do they all require a clear coat?
> 
> It also takes multiple coats.


Same here with the duplicolor,you can however get a nice result using automotive grade clear over it.The duplicolor spray clear is just doesnt cut it.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Dupli-color with metallic seems especially dull, but clear fixes everything.

Generally I break all the rules regarding compatability and not only use any enamel I can get my hands on but......gasp.....mix em! No kidding, the shelf is full of decades-old enamel scavenged from the local recycle center. With one exception, I don't use Krylon products, period. 99% of the time when I've gotten paint reactions, krylon's been involved. Most enamels are acrylic, but krylon is latex. Maybe somebody smarterer can explain why they're both enamel but so different? 

Cheap hardware store rattle cans works especially good as basecoat. The solid content is so low you can fog super light coats to get coverage without obliterating detail, and they dry to the touch in an hour.

Testors makes good products, highly compatible, but they're slower drying than the real thing and it's just so hard to keep yer paws off the shiny-shiny


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Keep your paws off...*



440s-4ever said:


> *SNIP* Testors makes good products, highly compatible, but they're slower drying than the real thing and it's just so hard to keep yer paws off the shiny-shiny


440s-4ever,

HAHAHHAHAHAHHA shiny-shiny...yep the problem that goes back to caveman time. You want to touch to see if it is dry because, it is so shiny...Ooooooooh. :lol:

My Dad did this and I do to. If you get a fingerprint on your still not dried paint job just spit on your finger and rub it out. Then leave it alone...

I have now gotten ahead of the game and have a bunch of bodies painted up ahead of time so, I can work on the dry ones and then keep spraying more as needed ( you can never have enough Custom slot cars ).

Bob...is it dry yet, is it dry yet, is it dry yet...zilla


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Those signs you buy or make, "WET PAINT" "DO NOT TOUCH", they'er useless... RM


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## 2.8powerranger (Dec 13, 2004)

I've found for air brushing,,Body shops are hard to beat,,theres almost always a small amount left in the bottom of the cans they use, thin it and shoot it.pick up a pint or quart of clear and some hardener,and a little laquer thinner and go at it,theres some amazing colors out there.It coats second to none and is tough as nails,little scratches,,,wet em hit it with 1500 and buff a little,good as new.:tongue:


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