# A Newbie Question 'Fer You Old Timers / Resin Casting



## KYHOTracker41 (Jan 16, 2013)

I plan on casting some resin bodies using some Hot Wheels bodies as originals and was wondering if the decals on the new Hot Wheels need to come off before making a silicon rubber mold? I know that the silicon rubber will pick up about every imperfection on any bodies used for a mold, but these new Hot Wheels with decaling feel awful smooth to me. So if the decaling needs to go, what's the best way y'all (it's a KY thang) use to accomplish doing it, short of placing the body in a nuclear reactor, which I might be able to do since my goofy brother-in-law works in Oak Ridge! Thanks for any tips / tricks y'all have up your sleeve(s) and are willing to share!


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

You must strip the tampos (decals). Even finger prints will show up in a molded body if the master had them. 
Since paint fills details anyway, I strip a diecast body bare then dip it in Future floor wax. 
The Future settles into perfections and leaves the master glassy smooth.

1. Strip body bare.
2. wash and rinse thoroughly.
3. carefully dry with lint free cloth
*You can no longer touch the outside of the master*
4. dip in Future and tilt to a corner, blotting puddles
that form at corners. It will dry in minutes. Repeat
dip/blot/dry a couple of times.
5 "clay-up" your master and when satisfied, carefully
wipe any clay and fingerprints from outside of master.
6 build box around master and pour RTV.

Good luck!:thumbsup:


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## KYHOTracker41 (Jan 16, 2013)

*So....*

How's the best way to strip the bodies bare? Any particular method that should be used? Thanks for your reply too!


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Hobby shops have a product called ELO (Easy Lift Off)
I soak the body in that stuff and use an old tooth brush
that is trimmed to half bristle length. (more stiff)
Just soak and brush at it. For more stubborn paint
stuck in seams and grooves, use a tooth pick.
Over-night soaks are fine. Remove all the plastic
bits first! 

You can do it! :thumbsup:


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

For me ELO gives me a headache so you may want to use it outdoors and close it up in a container in any case. I use undiluted Simple Green for my stripping but doubt it works as well as ELO.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

For "metal diecast" bodies I use the Aircraft Stripper stuff from AutoZone. I place my body in a small plastic tub, then pour on some stripper, spread it all over with a Q Tip, let it sit a few minutes, wash it off with the hose pipe outside in the grass, body and tub. The stuff's got an odor and it'll burn your skin, so be careful with it, but it's fast. Use it in the garage or outside, want take but a few minutes...RM


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

*Whoa!! Not to be pessimistic, but being realistic!*

Before jumping in to making resin bodies, there are a few things you need to consider before going into the job. Silicone ain't cheap! 

What chassis do the bodies fit?

How well do they fit? Do the wheels on these chassis in standard locations match the wheel well openings?

Are there any internal attachments required to mount the them on a chassis? Depending on what chassis they are designed for determines how they'll mount.

What are the masters made from? Making resin babies of a body that's made from plastic (like the plastic Hotwheels bodies) doesn't make financial sense. When the master costs a buck and is mass produced, what will the resin copy sell for?

I don't want to take the wind out of your sails, but these are but a few of the many questions you need to consider before jumping into the resin casting world. The how to videos make it look so easy, but getting the results they lead you to expect watching them doesn't always happen. Two part molds take time to make, and the investment in materials and time doesn't always work out in your favor. Think the whole process through before jumping in!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

*slicing, dicing and pouring rubber!*

yep, I don't think anyone who is hand creating anything within(&without) this hobby are making big money doing so. I make some resin cast bodies now and again and the time I have invested will never be made back in comparison to if I worked those same hours straight time at my day job.
it is a labor of love.
I would hate for anyone to do a complete break down on slotcarmans LED lighted and custom painted complete cars, because all told with a minimum hourly wage I would NOT be able to afford his wonderful creations.
I am glad that Joe(slotcarman) brought up this consideration, but, he knows as well as all of us, we only do this because we want to.
JoeZ gives a very good Readers Digest version of beginning mold making and resin casting.
I would advise anyone starting from scratch to buy a starter kit from any of the manufacturers because they contain about everything you need and have simple easy to follow instructions. 
I prefer MicrMark.com for such a kit, but there are others, equally qualified out there. 
always welcome new folks to this interesting way of providing limited editions of bodies that aren't readily available.
HillTop does some real nice stuff and will probably answer any PM about specifics.
JoeZ's resins are excellent too. unfortunately some of our god fathers of resin casting have recently passed on and we mourn their passing and our loss.
so, new blood is welcome into the mix.
have fun, bottom line.

al


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Just watch some of the online videos and you'll get the gist of it. If you have any questions after the first run, post 'em up here or come into chat some night for real-time sage advice. Good luck with your project. :thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

I have a.question for RM, did you ever consider coloring the resin and do you or anyone else know the procedure HO aka Chris used cause his are all made in colored resin. All colors and they actually look like plastic bodies. Like injection molded bodies. 

I wish we can figure that one out. 

FYI, hilltop has the resin bodies down to a science imo. None better out there today imo.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

There are dyes specifically used to color resins Joe. I'm using red to tint the clear epoxy I use for tail lights. It's really concentrated, so a little goes a long way. I've also mixed a little yellow lacquer into the epoxy for parking lights. Greg Gipe uses them for his cars,as well as other casters.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

oil based model/hobby paints can be used to color resin. I have dyes made for resin and I sometimes use the paint.
no acrylic.
water doesn't mix with resin.


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## KYHOTracker41 (Jan 16, 2013)

I plan on taking up resin casting again just as a side line to build some HO slot cars - I use to do it differently years ago. If I can get the hang of it, I might sell a few along, but not to get rich!
Thanks to everybody for your interest and info replies to the post so far too!


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

J65, I've messed with the colors a little using dyes and paint as a color dye. Colored bodies are OK until your start detailing or adding decals. Detail paint (especially silver) usually rubs off or your decals want stay on unless you scuff the body, then you still need a clear to protect or cover your scuff marks. Most people seem to like to paint their on stuff with that certain color, then do a Future dip. White or off white seems to work for me, then again I could be doing it all wrong... I've seen bodies that have that high gloss, injected plastic finish look. I'd be very interested in what brand of stuff or their technique is, maybe on down the road if I keep messing with it...It's enough headaches and time consumption just doing white... RM


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Randy, do you de-air the rubber with a vacuum chamber before pouring?
do you use a pressure chamber when you pour the resin?


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

I heard that Chris used some kind of a pressure pot procedure to get the injection finish. I wish I knew more.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

alpink said:


> Randy, do you de-air the rubber with a vacuum chamber before pouring?
> do you use a pressure chamber when you pour the resin?



Never used the vacumn chamber to de-air. I use a pressure pot for both the mold and the casting. Some say you don't need it, seems to work better for me, lots less waste. If you see flaws in your master, your gonna have em in your molds and your resin copies... The resin body copy will only be as good as the mold and the mold will only be as good as the master body, if that makes sense...RM


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

hilltop you should check out ho models resin work ..he makes his stuff in colors , his castings have the gloss you talked about ..i bought a lot of bodys from him..i am very impressed with the work he does !! his colors look great , i just got some atlas 62 pontiac bodys from him 1 turquoise and 1 mint green made to fit tjet chassis from him, with matching color roofs
he makes the roof with clear glass and the body color roof molded in too ?
that one puzzels me how he can do that .. check out his work jim


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