# Time Capsule :)



## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

Hey Bud, and the rest of y'all:

Just thought I'd drop a line here, and get some advice and feedback from the Locals on the board 

Bought an SC18v2 around 2005 or so from Bud, after checking out the HPI cars, and noticing that anodized parts was not the sort of upgrade path that made sense to a new driver 

No local knowledge in my neighborhood, so a few calls to Bud got me all the needed bits to keep me off website unless something went pop, loudly - new spur, Pro Stock motor, new fronts in orange compound, ball diff..heck, I even talked Bud into soldering TWO battery packs for me, GP1100 six-cell! Never mind the upgrade bits for my RC-18T!

Down to my local shop, and I added a Spektrum DS3 and Novak XRS to my pile o' parts. MRC's Super Brain 959 rounded out the electronics side of things.

Here's the questions I have for the crusty ole pros: I've lost my old paper instruction kit, but found Bud's soft copy on the BRP site. Any useful addenda out there for the new builder? I've found Elwood's build tips with good general advice and tips: anything like this for the V2?

My motor drops leaked in transit to me, and I likely pitched it some time ago. Necessary? Good alternatives on the market?

A bit of discoloring on the battery packs where soldered - likely just flux. Should I worry? More importantly, will five-year old or so NiMH cells be something I can reliably charge and use? Is this something I can use the charger to test?

What grade of wire do you recommend for the bullet connectors? I would rather solder bullet connectors to each motor once than keep redoing the ESC to Motor connection. 

For bonus points, can anyone explain the mysteries and miracles of dunking or dipping new motors?

Mea Culpa, Bud - our email exchanges were at least two laptops ago, before online storage 

Regards to all - once we've answered the under the hood stuff, it's on to paint! Heh. 

Regards,
Matthew Z


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Matthew - the SC-18V2 is the chassis I use for my road car (Bud has a new LTO chassis for us oval racers). Our local series has converted to LiPo and brushless set-ups. We use 7.4v 800Mah 2s LiPo's that are $5, 3100Kv brushless motors ($15), and the HobbyWing 25A ESC ($25). 

The old battery packs may not take a charge if they have been idle for several years. I would charge at 1 amp and watch them to see if they get hot. they may or may not take a charge....

Motor - Not sure if you have the parma motor (slot car motor) or the Big Block motor (round). If you have the slot car motor - you can water dip to align the brushes. Just use a cup of water, run the motor slowly and dip into the water for a few seconds. Then clean out with motor spray. If the round motor, really nothing you can do to that motor - just put it in the car and run!

1/18 scale bullet connectors will work just fine.


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

*Thanks, Micro!*

Glad I found one of y'all online 



Micro_Racer said:


> Matthew - the SC-18V2 is the chassis I use for my road car..Our local series has converted to LiPo and brushless set-ups. We use 7.4v 800Mah 2s LiPo's that are $5, 3100Kv brushless motors ($15), and the HobbyWing 25A ESC ($25).


I noticed that in one of the threads. Hope to just get a feel for the car, if the cells will still work. There's a hobby place in the region, but they're about 30 miles one-way. Extra cash is a bit of a luxury right now. Think I'll be running the "Visible Car" paint scheme 'til I finance some Lexan paint 

Are your cells and motors coming from hobbypartz.com? I saw mention of them as well.


Micro_Racer said:


> The old battery packs may not take a charge if they have been idle for several years. I would charge at 1 amp and watch them to see if they get hot. they may or may not take a charge..


Sooo, if they stay cool, it's a no-go? I'll give 'em a look. I don't see any of that white nasty powder dead alkaline cells produce, so we'll just call it "flux" and leave it at that. Just gotta adjust the 959 for the appropriate charge rate. Heck, if one pack survives, it means I can drive! My RC18T has passed on to a relative. Hope he hasn't destroyed it - I've got all of Bud's extra bits for it here!



Micro_Racer said:


> Motor - Not sure if you have the parma motor (slot car motor) or the Big Block motor (round). If you have the slot car motor - you can water dip to align the brushes. Just use a cup of water, run the motor slowly and dip into the water for a few seconds. Then clean out with motor spray. If the round motor, really nothing you can do to that motor - just put it in the car and run!


If you're talking about the Pro Stock, I believe they're both Parma motors - from the outside, a dab of red ink and "Pro Stock" written on the envelope are the only visible differences between the two. At least he's got the triple caps in place, that's one less thing I have to solder (badly).

Found Bud's own break-in notes - "Pro Stock" should be ready out of the box, while the Stock motor needs about ten minutes break-in, then likely a dose of motor spray. So, who makes good motor spray? Google says I should look for Electrical Contact Cleaner, from CRC. Hmm..



Micro_Racer said:


> 1/18 scale bullet connectors will work just fine.


I've got whatever bullet connectors Novak put on the ESC. Assume that's the appropriate size for us? I can find more at a good electronics store downtown. Already sized them up or a soldering iron, in case I need one 

Cheers,
Matthew Z


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

Hey Micro,

Found a few different 25A ESC's on their page - think I could pick one up in the future. Not sure if I've found the right LiPO pack yet. If you can rustle up the link, I'd appreciate that greatly. 

Pulled my dropping bulb and SB959 out, and was happy to see some signs of life. By the third cycle at 1A, longest time on a single dropping bulb was about 18 minutes. Found some more 959 tips online, and they don't SEEM to have any dead cells, or at least no false peaks by third charge.

Is it safe to simply start another cycle if they false peak? Should they be discharged first? One cell got the repeat treatment, with a second cycle, but this was all at a 1A charge rate, not the 3A default rate. No adjustments to Delta Peak at all. 

Too impatient to give 'em the fifty-minute trickle cycle, as I was swapping packs. By the third charge/discharge cycle, slight increase in temp. Nothing drastic, they're in a seventy-degree room as it is here  

Didn't think to unplug them before output was too low for the lamp, but I expect there's SOME voltage left, just not enough to run a tail lamp bulb. 

Is a cheap multimeter suitable to get a rating on capacity? Don't see any way to read that from the Super Brain. Also, would the 959 be appropriate for charging LiPo cells in the future? 

Regards,
Matthew Z


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Hobbypartz.com links

25A ESC:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-25a-l-brushless-esc-for-rc-car.html

800Mah LiPo:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/32p-20c-800-2s1p-74.html

I dont know if the SB959 is LiPo ready. Read the manual! My guess is it is not. Check out this charger:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyc-1003-accharger-blue.html
a few folks at the track use it for the LiPo's.

If the 2/3A cells are charging, you can bump up the amps to 2.5. Just keep an eye on them, dont what them to get over 100 degrees.


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

Thanks for the links! I had to find the manual online for the Super Brain. My goal is to run the GP1100's until I HAVE to get new batteries. Given that there's no track nearby, that shouldn't be too difficult. 

Found some advice on the water dip, so I'll likely give that a try for the motor once the rest of assembly is out of the way.

Glad to see you survived the holidays! 

Gonna give the packs a 1A charge and leave them for trickle, then compare times on the dropping bulb. I DID find a bit of advice online that wasn't in the SB manual, how to read the display to see if the charger had a false peak. 

Cheers,
Matthew Z


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

*Halp!*

Hey Micro,

Two issues cropped up while putting the car together - 

1.) nylon locknut securing front end plate meets the steering block on the left, and rubs. I'd have to dremel off a fair portion of the steering block to make it work. Am I missing something here?

2.) Stub axles and steering blocks - do I press the stub axle in until the e-clip is flush with the block? 

Cheers,

Matthew Z


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## wazzer (Nov 13, 2001)

Matthew, 

1. I suspect you are trying to use the large nylon locknuts that require a 1/4 nut driver. They are too big. Get some of these nylon insert locknuts http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000081648&I=LX2507&P=K that use a 3/16 driver, they should work fine, with no trimming required of the steering blocks.

2. Yes, press the axle into the steering block until the e-clip bottoms out.


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

*Hey Wazzer!*

Thanks!

Yeah, I compared notes with Micro_Racer and BudBartos too. Once I know the correct dimensions, I can hit the local hardware store for 'em. 

Or Tower, obviously. Might go to Tower for a new Kimbrough if mine doesn't fit the other servo. 

What size are the eclips used on the BRP? I can live without an eclip tool, but spares would do me well, since I've already bent, flattened and reused one I knocked off accidentally.

Cheers,
Matthew Z

Bonus question: is a battery tray for NiMH paired to a quick charger a bad idea? Am thinking six to eight cells, AA format. Haven't done it yet, just considering it. Need a good handful of batteries for my transmitter, have a batch of NiMH 2400Mah from my camera grip and flash I'd like to use. Mostly concerned about the lack of slow charge capabilities with my charger. Think .5 or 1A charge rates for a start. Consumer chargers only handle four cells at a time, and they do so with an eight-hour or greater charging time. I really need a cheap multi-cell trickle with the capacity for a big batch of cells at once. Hmm..


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## all4fun (Jan 14, 2009)

Matthew,

Regarding your question on transmitter batteries........just to be safe, I would check the manual that came with your transmitter and go with what the manufacturer reccomends.
The e-clips used on your BRP car front axle should be available at most hobby shops in your area. Just bring one with you and show them.....It's a very common used e-clip that's been around for years. Good luck :thumbsup:





matthew_z said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Yeah, I compared notes with Micro_Racer and BudBartos too. Once I know the correct dimensions, I can hit the local hardware store for 'em.
> 
> ...


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

Hey!

Yeah, I'm leaning towards playing it safe as well, although it should really be no different than charging a transmitter pack with a quick charger. 

The reason I ask about correct size e-clips and such is that it's forty miles one way to my nearest hobby store. Maybe a little bit shorter drive towards another neighboring town, but I would have to call and see if they're still in business, since their website is gone.

Seriously, I'm pinging all of y'all because there IS no local knowledge here. One weekend at Da Track would sort out any issues I have, but I'm a ways from Da Track 

Anyhoo, local hardware spots may just have a small enough ny-lock nut for the front end plate/chassis connection, so the steering block will clear. I'll take my spare e-clip with me to compare to the stock nearby, then I'll go from there. 

One of the big reasons I'm improvising is that I'm trying to keep extra cash and extra driving out of the picture. I should have everything I need, as long as I don't break anything. I bought this car some time ago, but Bud and I really worked to make sure I wouldn't be chasing parts unless something drastic happened to my SC18 

Spare motor, spare fronts, two GP1100 packs, even talked him into soldering them for me. Just can't find the battery charger for the NiMH cells I expect to use with my transmitter. 

Thanks to all - gonna go polish some kingpins and stub axles now 

Cheers,
Matthew Z


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## Donald Deutsch (Sep 29, 2001)

Those e-clips are 1/8 axle clips, ASW has them in 12 packs or more. Check with your local hobby shop. The part No. is Asc 6299.:wave:


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## matthew_z (Jun 20, 2004)

Thanks Don!

Folks started mentioning 1/12 bits from AE, and a good link to Tower Hobbies and an RC12 manual gave me the right e-clip size.

Got an old-school electronics shop that should be good for spacers, too. Once I find the smaller ny-lock nuts, am golden!

Cheers
Matthew Z


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