# Ariens ST 2+2 Standard - Question



## tsiedsma

I have an Ariens ST 2+2 Standard Snow Blower and it is having troubles running. I took the carb off and replaced the Diaphram, gasket and pin valve. I put it back together and got it started and it ran for about 5 minutes and then died. Now it just leaks gas and won't run.

What should I look for as the cause to this problem?

Also, I have no idea what size motor it has, all I know is that it is a Tecumseh 9.05 Cubic Inch motot. If anyone has anymore information on the motor that would be great.


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## bugman

virtical crank/shaft engine right. so what might be the problem is if it's an oldy it might have mixture screws they might need adjusting, not knowing hp rating. might be you need to tighten the screws down on the carb everywhere. or check yourself on the diaprahm, they are easy to get upside down, and make sure the carb is very clean. if not take it back off and apart and clean it good with carb cleaner or vineger works to. if it has a float well then the float might be sticking, had a 3.75 with a float carb and did the same thing. they get stuck very easily. or the carbs stuck up somewhere in one of the fuel passage ways. so i'd say clean it then put it on. because most likely it got crap in it from rebuilding it.


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## tsiedsma

Thanks for the info, I plan on taking it apart tomorrow and cleaning it out and rebuilding it again. I think the needle valve is stuck but that is brand new, so who knows. Maybe after pulling it apart I will figure something out.


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## snoman

tsiedsma
Can you do me a favor and give me the model and type of the engine and I might have an engine manual that I can send you . Plus it will give me more insight into what type of problem you have.

snoman


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## scrench

flooding gasket first ? needle lever should be level with bottom of carb,


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## tsiedsma

snoman said:


> tsiedsma
> Can you do me a favor and give me the model and type of the engine and I might have an engine manual that I can send you . Plus it will give me more insight into what type of problem you have.
> 
> snoman


Where do I looke for the engine model #? Can you give me an example of one? Is it embossed on the block or the head?


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## tsiedsma

scrench said:


> flooding gasket first ? needle lever should be level with bottom of carb,


There isn't a needle lever, I have no idea what you are talking about.


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## tsiedsma

Here is a link to some pictures if that will help you guys out. I took some detailed images of the carb too.

Thanks for all the help.

Clicky Here Please


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## bugman

looks like your carb needs a bath in cleaner. oh the model numbers are on the housing most of the time


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## scrench

tsiedsma said:


> There isn't a needle lever, I have no idea what you are talking about.


might help


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## Jeff194307

If I were a betting man, my bet would be that the diaphram is upside down.


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## tsiedsma

Jeff194307 said:


> If I were a betting man, my bet would be that the diaphram is upside down.


I wouldn't take that luck to the casino.

I took it all back apart and noticed the Needle was bent slightly. I took it out and straightened it out. Put it all back together and it worked perfect. The diaphragm was not upside down.

thanks all for the help.


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## snoman

tsiedsma
Glad you had success, but maybe in the off season it would be a good idea to replace the repaired needle with a straight one.

snoman


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## tsiedsma

Well, its a year later and I am having problems again. It only ran once last year. Now when I try to start it I have to prime it alot. I then pull and it starts, it promptly shuts off after it burns the gas off. I took out the plug and cleaned it. I tried to get it to spark by touching the plug to a bolt on the head. Nothing happened. I waited a minute and tried again and it worked. This model does not have any electric accessories, no generator either. What is it that creates the spark? Is it possible that part is bad to where it only creates a spark once in a while? Where is it located? Can I clean or replace it myself? Any other thoughts?

BTW, I did replace the needle valve last year.


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## bugman

will it run with gas dribbled down the carb? anyway, when you take the shroud off, theres a magneto coil there, spark plug wire running out to the plug. does it use a points and condensor system??


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## tsiedsma

I talked to an Ariens serviec manager and he thinks it is a problem with the carb not the spark. I am going to replace the diaphram as soon as I can find one.


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## mickron

I have the same snowblower. Ariens ST 2+2, 9.05cid. It had been idle for several years but the yesterday I started it (with a little starter fluid), added some Seafoam (gas additive) and it seemed to run ok. It idled well, ran at higher rpm well, and engaged the thrower mechanisms with no problem. But when I pushed it into the snow to throw, it went a few yards and died, over and over again. It runs fine when not throwing snow. Eventually it kept running long enough to do mine and four other neighbors sidewalks but died before i could get my driveway.

I took the carb off and sprayed cleaner through all the orifices and jet openings I could find. There is no float that I could find, only a shutoff valve that I don't know if it's original. The primer works ok. 

I removed the gas lines and found that there seemed to be some crud restricting flow out the bottom of the tank. I ran a pipe cleaner through it and let it flush clean. I replaced the gas and reassembled it all.

Same scenerio, it starts, runs well, throttles well, but when it get into snow throwing, it dies. 

It also seemed odd to me that there was no cover guarding the carb. It was exposed as if someone had removed one. There were threaded screw holes to hold one so I fashioned a nice cover out of flashing metal that shields the carb area well while not inpinging on any operating parts or restricting available air.

It thought I had it solved but it still does the same thing. Does anyone have any clues about this? I really appreciate any ideas or knowledge regarding this condition.


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## paulr44

tsiedsma said:


> I talked to an Ariens serviec manager and he thinks it is a problem with the carb not the spark. I am going to replace the diaphram as soon as I can find one.


You can look up parts at partstree.com using your engine numbers.
There's a diaphragm kit available, I don't remember the number as I usually use a complete rebuild kit, which is only about $10.00 : 631893
If you use the complete kit, *MAKE SURE *you remove the old inlet-seat gasket as they like to stick in the body of the carb. This is the gasket under the brass "nut," which is the needle-valve seat.
Good luck,
Paul


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## pboerstler

*Key Cylinder*

I cannot locate a place to plug the single wire in from the key cylinder on this same model Series 932 Ariens Snow-Thro 2+2. (932015) 

All of the manuals that I have located fail to show a diagram including this detail, and my eyes have not been sharp enough to spot it while looking at the thing. 

Thanks for the help in advance!
Phil


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## usmcgrunt

pboerstler said:


> I cannot locate a place to plug the single wire in from the key cylinder on this same model Series 932 Ariens Snow-Thro 2+2. (932015)
> 
> All of the manuals that I have located fail to show a diagram including this detail, and my eyes have not been sharp enough to spot it while looking at the thing.
> 
> Thanks for the help in advance!
> Phil


Hello and Welcome to Hobby Talk.Could you please post the brand and model numbers off the MOTOR for more help.

If your engine is a Tecumseh,one side of the key switch attaches to a ground some where on the engine.The other side of the switch(the loose wire) will attach to a small tab on the engine speed control and will ground the ignition when pushed to the stop position.Hope this helps.

Here is a link to the Tecumseh engine manual (just in case you need it).
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf


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## oriongiant66

bugman said:


> virtical crank/shaft engine right. so what might be the problem is if it's an oldy it might have mixture screws they might need adjusting, not knowing hp rating. might be you need to tighten the screws down on the carb everywhere. or check yourself on the diaprahm, they are easy to get upside down, and make sure the carb is very clean. if not take it back off and apart and clean it good with carb cleaner or vineger works to. if it has a float well then the float might be sticking, had a 3.75 with a float carb and did the same thing. they get stuck very easily. or the carbs stuck up somewhere in one of the fuel passage ways. so i'd say clean it then put it on. because most likely it got crap in it from rebuilding it.


I have a question on the ariens 2+2 standard. I put a brand new scraper bar on this unit. Totally repainted it. I'll add a pic. Anyways I noticed after the new scraper bar was put on. It's not grabbing the cement like it did with out the scraper bar. So is this normal. Do the propellers grab the snow and help move it ? I'm selling this and how much should I ask for northwest ohio do you think? I was going to ask.200.00. It has a brand new preditor engine on it


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## oriongiant66

have a question on the ariens 2+2 standard. I put a brand new scraper bar on this unit. Totally repainted it. I'll add a pic. Anyways I noticed after the new scraper bar was put on. It's not grabbing the cement like it did with out the scraper bar. So is this normal. Do the propellers grab the snow and help move it ? I'm selling this and how much should I ask for northwest ohio do you think? I was going to ask.200.00. It has a brand new preditor engine on it


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## paulr44

The rubber blades on the auger are the self-propel system. Either you have the scraper too low, or the blades are worn down.


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## oriongiant66

If 


paulr44 said:


> The rubber blades on the auger are the self-propel system. Either you have the scraper too low, or the blades are worn down.


If I lift up a little bit takes hold. But I'd think it should take hold with out having to tip upwards


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## Milton Fox Racing

As for an asking price - it maybe to early in the season to research prices in your immediate area but sales ads, craigs list and the like my have some early listings. 

We usually recommend the ebay sold listings for any mail able collectible but you will definitely have to filter down to your immediate pick up and delivery area for this one. 

You might also check with any local shops and see what they will give you for it or set it up as a consignment in their shop.

Good luck with the sale.


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## oriongiant66

Milton Fox Racing said:


> As for an asking price - it maybe to early in the season to research prices in your immediate area but sales ads, craigs list and the like my have some early listings.
> 
> We usually recommend the ebay sold listings for any mail able collectible but you will definitely have to filter down to your immediate pick up and delivery area for this one.
> 
> You might also check with any local shops and see what they will give you for it or set it up as a consignment in their shop.
> 
> Good luck with the sale.


I will say with out the scraper bar it grabbed the cement.with out having to.tilt upwards


paulr44 said:


> The rubber blades on the auger are the self-propel system. Either you have the scraper too low, or the blades are worn down.


With out.the.scraper bar was put on. It grabbed the cement now with that said.if.i tilt up somewhat it grabs. So is tilting upwards normal for this. Where can I get new rubber for the propellers? I looked on Amazon but didn't see any for this one. I do have some old tires. Maybe I'll make my own


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## oriongiant66

oriongiant66 said:


> I will say with out the scraper bar it grabbed the cement.with out having to.tilt upwards
> 
> With out.the.scraper bar was put on. It grabbed the cement now with that said.if.i tilt up somewhat it grabs. So is tilting upwards normal for this. Where can I get new rubber for the propellers? I looked on Amazon but didn't see any for this one. I do have some old tires. Maybe I'll make my own


I did try and move the scraper bar forwards down. It didn't make a difference. I can take pics of the blades see what you think. It just touched the pavement. So tilted up it grabs


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## paulr44

Service manual is here: Operator's Manuals - Ariens
Example, model 932015, svc. manual depicts scraper adjustment on page 39 / 6.6. They called these "auger propelled."
A number of brands use the auger to give the unit a self-propel effect. Mostly single stage units. The rubber wears as sidewalks are abrasive.
Today, the rubber paddles on single stage have drilled holes as a wear indicator, I don't remember the 2+2 units having them, but then it's been 3 decades since I worked on them.


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## oriongiant66

oriongiant66 said:


> I did try and move the scraper bar forwards down. It didn't make a difference. I can take pics of the blades see what you think. It just touched the pavement. So tilted up it grabs





paulr44 said:


> Service manual is here: Operator's Manuals - Ariens
> Example, model 932015, svc. manual depicts scraper adjustment on page 39 / 6.6. They called these "auger propelled."
> A number of brands use the auger to give the unit a self-propel effect. Mostly single stage units. The rubber wears as sidewalks are abrasive.
> Today, the rubber paddles on single stage have drilled holes as a wear indicator, I don't remember the 2+2 units having them, but then it's been 3 decades since I worked on them.


The rubber paddles are good. I got to looking at the bottom housing. I decided to reverse the scraper bar and straighten out the housing. It worked. The propellers seem to work as they should. I do think the scraper bar needs broke in but I don't have to lift the snowblower half an inch to make it go. I slightly pick up on it and it seems to go. Not as I would of liked. So maybe in time when the scraper bar gets broke in. It did throw grass lol


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