# Toro Lawnmower Electric Start



## pjl1969

I have a Toro 6.5hp GTS Recycler Lawnmower, with electric start. Starting the mower with the cord works fine but now the electric start is not working and seeking advice on how to diagnose the problem. I have confirmed the Battery is charged and yesterday replaced the wiring harness. Don't know what else to do or how I can check to see what else is working / not working ? When turning the key there is no sound at all as though it was even trying to turnover the engine. Help please.

Mower Specifics: Toro Consumer 20045, Super Recycler Mower, SR-21SE, 2000 (SN 200000001-200999999)


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## 30yearTech

need to check and see if your getting power down to the starter motor. Using a 12 volt trouble light or a multimeter trace the power coming from the battery to the switches and down to the starter. If your getting power to the starter then the problem is in the starter motor.


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## pjl1969

Thanks. Honestly I am not good at this electrical stuff, so if possible could you advise how to test it. I have borrowed a multimeter from a friend and as for the wiring there is a red wire going to the starter and a black wire to what looks like the engine or ground. Do I test it with those wires connected to the starter or do I disconnect them to perform the test ? Also, when testing should I turn the key at the top or it does not matter since it would be getting power from the battery. Thank You.


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## 30yearTech

You will need to ground the black wire from the multimeter to a bare metal area of the engine or mower frame. Set the meter to check for DC current. Touch the red lead to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery and make sure you are getting a reading of at least 12 volts or more. Now attach the red lead to the wire going to the side of the starter, squeeze the engine control bail at the top of the handle and turn the key and see if your getting any voltage to the starter and how much. Post back the results of this and we can proceed from there.


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## chuck_thehammer

30yeartech.. you made an error... do not set the meter to DC currect... set it to DC voltage and the rest is correct...


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## 30yearTech

chuck_thehammer said:


> 30yeartech.. you made an error... do not set the meter to DC currect... set it to DC voltage and the rest is correct...


No, I don't think I did. I posted to set the meter to check *for* DC current, you are correct that the setting on the multimeter will be listed as voltage.


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## junebug1701

30yearTech said:


> No, I don't think I did. I posted to set the meter to check *for* DC current, you are correct that the setting on the multimeter will be listed as voltage.


With all due respect, 30year, if you set the meter for DC current, the display will indicate AMPERAGE, not VOLTAGE. If your instructions above are followed, you will be shorting the positive side of the battery to the mower frame through the meter.


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## 30yearTech

junebug1701 said:


> With all due respect, 30year, if you set the meter for DC current, the display will indicate AMPERAGE, not VOLTAGE. If your instructions above are followed, you will be shorting the positive side of the battery to the mower frame through the meter.


With all due respect perhaps you need to PAY ATTENTION to what I actually posted! 

I never instructed *how* to set their specific meter, I only said to set it to check for DC current (somewhat redundant since the "C" in "DC" stands for current). Since I don't know how anyone's meter may be labeled, I said they should look for a reading of 12 volts or more(a dead give-a-way to what I was referring to). I never said to check for current draw (that would be the amperage setting you all keep referring to) and never suggested an amperage reading to check for. *If you get voltage that's current*. I am not sure what reading one might get if the meter was set to AC, and not all multi meters are the same, many do not even have a setting to check for amperage draw. The DC setting on both of my multi meters read voltage only, they do not show amperage (draw) and would not cause a direct short when used with my instructions. I have a separate meter for checking current draw.

This is a simple procedure for testing the circuit only and a simple 12volt trouble light would work just as well (as previously suggested). 

I am sorry if I have stepped on anyone's toes, but I stand by my statement. Check for Current (electricity) "DC" not "AC" . This will tell you if there is a problem in the circuit leading to the starter. If no current (voltage) is present at the starter, then you need to trace back through the switches to the battery, until you locate the "break" in the circuit. There is a completely different procedure to load test the battery or starter and that is not what I am talking about. I hope this eliminates any confusion, if there ever really was any.

This is all I have to say on this issue, but I will be happy to respond to any questions from the original poster on their issue, if they have any.


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## junebug1701

I did pay attention to what you actually posted, and as a 30+ year ELECTRONICS TECHNICIAN, I know the difference between amperage (current), and voltage (electromotive force). And I also know that AC and DC are both "electricity". Most modern digital multimeters can measure both AC and DC amps and volts. When an electronics tech talks about measuring "current" he means amperage, not voltage.


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## pjl1969

30yearTech said:


> You will need to ground the black wire from the multimeter to a bare metal area of the engine or mower frame. Set the meter to check for DC current. Touch the red lead to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery and make sure you are getting a reading of at least 12 volts or more. Now attach the red lead to the wire going to the side of the starter, squeeze the engine control bail at the top of the handle and turn the key and see if your getting any voltage to the starter and how much. Post back the results of this and we can proceed from there.


Sorry for the delay in responding I checked and there is current to the Battery. Then I checked from the Battery to the Starter and there is current going to the Starter. I don't claim to really know what I am doing but this would likely mean it's the starter that's bad. If so, is it easy enough to purchase and replace a starter or is that much more complicated ?? Appreciate all the help and assistance.


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## 30yearTech

pjl1969 said:


> Sorry for the delay in responding I checked and there is current to the Battery. Then I checked from the Battery to the Starter and there is current going to the Starter. I don't claim to really know what I am doing but this would likely mean it's the starter that's bad. If so, is it easy enough to purchase and replace a starter or is that much more complicated ?? Appreciate all the help and assistance.


The starter is just bolted to the engine crankcase. Usually held on with a couple of bolts. You may want to take it off and take it to a shop and have it bench tested to see if it's bad. Starters can be expensive so you want to check it over and be sure it's the problem before replacing.


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## pjl1969

Ok, thanks. Just one last question then I'll drop the thread. How to I check the connection on the Saftey Handle which must be held down or else the engine will stop. If it's true the engine will not start if the saftey handle is not held down perhaps that might be the problem ? Not sure if the symptoms I describe lead you to beleive that may be the problem or not. Appreciate the help.


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## 30yearTech

There is a cable that runs from the bail down to the engine. When the bail is held down, the cable pulls on a lever on the engine, that disengages the engine brake, turns the ignition on and activates a switch that allows the starter to be energized with the key. If your getting power to the starter, then the cable should be operating properly.


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## pjl1969

Ok, thanks for the help !


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## BJ Curtis

30yearTech said:


> need to check and see if your getting power down to the starter motor. Using a 12 volt trouble light or a multimeter trace the power coming from the battery to the switches and down to the starter. If your getting power to the starter then the problem is in the starter motor.


I have the same mower and similar problem; Toro 6.5hp GTS Recycler Lawn Mower, with electric start. Starting the mower with the pull cord works and the engine runs fine but the electric start does not start the engine. I have confirmed the battery is charged and the charger is supplying the needed DC volts. When turning the key, the starter engages and starts to turnover the engine with a grunt or gowning sound, then stops. It behaves like the engine has too much compression or that the starter does NOT have enough power to crank the engine.
I can start the engine with the pull cord; but my wife can't. We bought to mower for her use primarily, hence the problem. My fear is that the starter motor is bad. Any feedback would be welcome.


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## paulr44

BJ Curtis said:


> I can start the engine with the pull cord; but my wife can't. We bought to mower for her use primarily, hence the problem. My fear is that the starter motor is bad. Any feedback would be welcome.


Sounds like it's not the starter, as you say your wife can't pull it over. All GTS engines pull over with ease. Valve lash may need to be set to allow the compression release to function. Or, the comp-release may be broken. If you can take a compression reading, it should be 60-80 lbs. (typical for comp-rel. engines, varies by brand).


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## BJ Curtis

paulr44 said:


> Sounds like it's not the starter, as you say your wife can't pull it over. All GTS engines pull over with ease. Valve lash may need to be set to allow the compression release to function. Or, the comp-release may be broken. If you can take a compression reading, it should be 60-80 lbs. (typical for comp-rel. engines, varies by brand).


Thanks for the feedback. I don't have a compression gauge; may need to take the mower into a professional repair shop if I can't borrow one from a friend or neighbor. IF it is the compression release, it sounds like it is maybe above my repair skill level. Good mower repair shops are few and far between in the very rural area where I live. I can honestly say "I live North of here!" to most people in North America.


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