# Tecumseh LV195EA won't start



## Rookie1

I have a Tecumseh LV/195 EA that stopped while running and won't start. Removed carb and cleaned with spray carb cleaner, Replaced Inlet Needle, Seat, and Clip, removed bowl and replaced bowl gasket, and cleaned bowl nut thoroughly (soaked in Sea foam) with bread tie in all holes sprayed with carb cleaner and blew out with compressed air. Replaced carb tube o-ring. New spark plug and air filter.

Plan to try again by soaking entire carb in a better solution, replacing float, replacing bowl nut and bowl. 

What is my next option if it still won't start?


I don't think it has spark, but local shop says this is unlikely with electronic ignition.


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## bgbass

First before replaceing carb parts check to see if you have spark pick up a spark tester at any parts store and let us know what happens. also post engine model#.


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## Rookie1

I believe that is the engine model #. The mower is a Toro Model #20016


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## Bob DiGiacomo

Check the gas cap vent as long as it was just running fine and quit on you. Or it could be possible the coil is going bad when they get hot they can cut out. If you don't have spark, sand the rust off the mating surfaces of the coil. Best wishes, Bob


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## Lawnmowertech

if it not working it could be the coil is bad


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## 30yearTech

Test for spark, with the kill switch wire unplugged. It's not unusual for the ignition module to fail, but you could have an issue with the kill switch or lead wire, I have seen many Toro in the line up that includes your model which have the compliance control cable stretch enough to disengage the engine brake, but not the kill switch. Definitely check for spark at the plug.


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## justin3

Whenever I hear a complaint about a tecumseh stopping while running the first thing I always check is compression. It is rare for the ignition coil on a tecumseh to fail, I have never yet in 6 years had to replace one.


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## 30yearTech

justin3 said:


> Whenever I hear a complaint about a tecumseh stopping while running the first thing I always check is compression. It is rare for the ignition coil on a tecumseh to fail, I have never yet in 6 years had to replace one.


Well justin, then you just don't work on enough of them! While it's not an everyday occurrence, it does happen. It happens enough that I stock one, and I usually run across 1 or 2 a season. That is not a lot considering the number of units I work on in a season, but they do fail! The module needs to be isolated to be sure it's the problem, but if your troubleshooting a starting problem you need to check for fuel, ignition and of course compression.

Low compression is a gradual problem, not one that usually happens suddenly. The symptoms of this are usually hard starting and low power, until eventually it will not start.

I don't know why everyone want's to slam Tecumseh engines so much, they not bad engines. They have their quirks but they last as long as any with proper maintenance.


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## justin3

30year is right, although I have never run into a dead tecumseh ignition coil, 30year does more work on Tecumseh engines then I do, so he would know that it is possible your coil is the problem. 
I say check compression as well, because of previous customer complaints. I have had alot of people cutting there grass and have the mower suddenly stop, 60% of the time its a thrown connecting rod. This is mostly due to lack of matinance considering more then half the people around here don't know what oil is


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## Rookie1

I sanded the coil contacts, but I made the mistake of removing the coil to do so. Now something is out of alignment. I read in the manual that I need a air gap tool to reset the coil. Do I really need to buy the tool? I was going to try and put it back by lining up the screw marks where it was previoulsly mounted. The rust wear highlights where the screws were.


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## 30yearTech

Usually you will be pretty close if you align the marks, as long as you are fairly close you should be alright. Rust on the lamination's and or magnets will not make any difference or prevent the module from sparking, make sure the coil is grounded good to the engine block. You can get pretty close setting the air gap with a business card. If you don't have spark after you reinstall the module (test with kill switch unplugged) then the module is most likely bad.


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## Rookie1

Do I need to remove the flywheel to get to the kill switch wire connection?


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## 30yearTech

No, the switch plugs into the back of the CDI module and is usually a green or white colored wire. Just unplug it from the module and test for spark, this will eliminate a problem with the kill switch or wire.  If you have spark, then you may need to remove the flywheel to determine the reason why you have no spark with the kill switch plugged in. Let us know if you get spark with the kill switch unplugged, we can advise you on what to look for, if you still do not have any spark, then it's likely that the module is bad and needs replacement.


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## Rookie1

Tried with switch unplugged, same result. I will purchase a coil and give that a shot.

Thanks.


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## Rookie1

These coils are fairly pricey. I found some used online. Anyone have experience buying used parts? Should I stick with new?


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## 30yearTech

Well as long as they guaranty that it works, it would be just as good as a new one. For the most part, they either work or they don't. You can have issues with them heating up and quitting. If you get a used one, it's possible that it may work when you put it on, but may give you trouble after the engine is run awhile. There is no real way to tell just by looking at one, you pretty much have to install it and find out if it works good or not.

Jacks Small Engine lists it for $32.45 

Best of Luck...


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## justin3

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using used parts, i keep a whole shed full of used parts just for the fact that its not always worth buying something new. Just make sure the used coil has the same wire length.


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## RKDOC

What does the wire length have to do with it?


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## Rookie1

Hooked up the new coil and started on first pull.:woohoo:

However, it's running really fast. I assume this is because I put the linkage on wrong when I reassambled the carb. There were two connections, which one controls the throttle.


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## 30yearTech

Your unit should have an arm with a spring and a little rod that attaches to the governor arm on the engine, this should attach to the lower of the top two holes. There should be a solid wire linkage that runs from the top hole in the governor arm back to the throttle on the carburetor.

You may need to do a static governor adjustment, if it's still running away when you start it.


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## Rookie1

I am pretty sure this is how I have it connected. I will try the static adjustment and see if that helps. 

There seems to be very little slack in the linkage connection. Is this the condition that causes the high speed? The connection being too tight?


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## 30yearTech

If the governor is working properly, the speed can be adjusted by bending the tab where the spring is attached. To slow down the engine bend the tab towards the air filter, to increase the speed, bend back towards the muffler. There should be no slack in the linkages, and when the engine is not running it will open the throttle all the way.


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## Rookie1

On this model, the muffler and the air filter are on the same side, to the left, opposite the tab where the spring is connected. But I understand what you mean. I will try loosening the governor arm and moving it towards the air filter.

The screw holding the governor arm didn't appear to be a phillips head, is this a hex head? I don't want strip the screw head.

Thanks.


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## Rookie1

Adjusted the governor and it's running great! Thanks 30year. You Da Man!


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