# That's the power of Pine-Sol!



## tolenmar (Dec 5, 2011)

In light of my Cobra problems, I was looking for a good way to remove the paint. I didn't want to damage the model itself, so I hit google to see what the hobby world uses. I came across Pine-Sol. 

The site recommended a 2:10 Pine-Sol to Water mix and a stiff brush (I think that's the ratio). Of course, I still don't want to ruin the Cobra, so I tested it on an older 32 Ford I've been meaning to rebuild. This is working great. I wish someone would have told me about this years ago!

What other tips do you know that you wish someone would have given you long before you found them out on your own?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Tol',

Yes, Pine-Sol is a good stripper. One of the advantages to this stuff is that it's reusable - after you've removed the paint from one model, you can strain the paint out of the liquid and strip another model. But here's a caution: *don't be lax about personal protection *when you're using Pine-Sol, just because it's a household cleaner. I was, once, and this stuff irritated my hands for several days.

You'll hear of other household products like Simple Green and Westley's Bleche-White for stripping hobby paints. They all work to one degree or another. I prefer Easy-Off Fume Free Oven Cleaner for stubborn paint jobs. And Polly-S Easy Lift Off will take most any paint off.

I have mentioned these removers in ascending order of stripping power. If you're trying to get acrylic paints off an unprimed plastic model, you can almost get by with soap and water, scrubbing the paint with an old toothbrush. For better-applied paints (meaning they went on over a coat of primer), or really thick coats, you may need the household products. If they don't get the job done, the Easy Lift Off will; be careful not to leave it on the model too long, as it can attack smaller, thinner parts.

It's best to have an airtight container that's large enough to enclose your model; a large zip-top plastic bag would work. You're smart to wear old clothes or a shop apron, rubber gloves, and eye protection when you start applying the stripper. I know this sounds like overkill - but if these products can remove hobby paint, think what they can do to your skin and your eyes. Let the stripper do its work, at least an hour or so, then test to see how much the paint has softened. When you think the paint will come off, it's time to suit up, break out the toothbrush, and start scrubbing.

Most times, it seems to take more than one application of stripper to get all the paint off a model. It's rather like the prime-sand-reprime cycle, an operation you just have to keep repeating until you get the results you want. Some colors, especially gloss paints, will put up more of a fight than others. You might have to dig softened paint out of recesses with a toothpick.

Be aware that the stripper that can remove paint will probably also take any putty you may have used with it. So if you got the outer coats of paint off a model but the primer is still there, you may want to consider simply wet-sanding the primer smooth. Thta would be less work than removing the primer and then having to reapply the putty underneath it. As always this will be a matter of learning by doing, but I hope I've shown you a couple things to look out for.

Good luck with your model!


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

It is great to remove chrome, too. Also, you can go with store brand.


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## jayco35 (Sep 5, 2002)

dawn power dissolver also works great too.:thumbsup:


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Somewhere on these boards last year someone suggested using GoofOff for stripping paint since he claimed it will not attack plastic. DO NOT USE!!!. It will turn plastic into soup in a matter of minutes. I dont remember who it was but I am sure it was not any of the regulars or longtime members.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

dreadnaught726 said:


> Somewhere on these boards last year someone suggested using GoofOff for stripping paint since he claimed it will not attack plastic. DO NOT USE!!!. It will turn plastic into soup in a matter of minutes. I dont remember who it was but I am sure it was not any of the regulars or longtime members.


It wasn't my post but GoofOff has been suggested to me by a local hobby shop and several folks who build rc cars as the prefered way to clean paint off of lexan car bodies, so maybe it's the type of plastic that the kit ws made out of.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I'm not sure about lexan plastic but I tested it on a number of old scrap kits and the results were devastating. Glad I never used it on a good piece.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

I would not recomend Pine-Sol for use on clear plastics to remove paint.


Lloyd Collins said:


> It is great to remove chrome, too. Also, you can go with store brand.


I've always heard just the oposite about store brand versions of Pine-Sol.


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

I put some bumpers and other chromed parts in Dollar General brand of pine cleaner, stripped off the chrome. My last pieces, I forgot about them, and a year later I removed the pieces, no problems, too.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Chromed pieces are typically coated in clear lacquer before being plated. This could be why the plastic was'nt affected. The lacquer shoul be removed to insure proper glue/paint adhesion.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

There is Goo Gone... one type of it will work "okay" on some plastics. The other kind will not. I don't see any reason to use any of it.

I still use Simple Green Concentrate or Super Clean to remove paint, chrome (and the clear varnish under chrome).

Mr. Muscle oven cleaner used to be awesome but I have not seen that in stores for many years now. 

Poly Scale Easy Lift Off has to be used carefully. It can and will melt plastic and it can and will melt resin. Simple Green and Super Clean, on the other hand, have zero effects on plastic and resin.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

djnick66 said:


> There is Goo Gone... one type of it will work "okay" on some plastics. The other kind will not. I don't see any reason to use any of it.


I've never used Goo Gone as a paint remover but have used it to remove adhesive tape marks from cards and plastic.

So far it hasn't done any damage to any plastic, but I don't soak the piece in it.

Mr.Muscle is still made and can be found if you look hard enough.
Here is a link to it at Ace Hardware:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1418952


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I have used Simple Green as a stripper with good success. It does work slowly but it does work. I have a ton of it since I also used it to de-mold my house after the flood.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

For my money, the best stripper out there is Polly Scale paint stripper. Unfortunately it is getting harder to find and it's price has doubled in the past few years.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

dreadnaught726 said:


> For my money, the best stripper out there is Polly Scale paint stripper. Unfortunately it is getting harder to find and it's price has doubled in the past few years.


If its the Poly ELO stuff its probably being discontinued along with the rest of the poly Scale line.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Back a few years ago I soaked some pieces in Pine-Sol for a few hours to over night and the old paint began to peel off, but in my current housing situation Pine-Sol has too much of a strong odor and I'm using Simple Green but the only down side to that is it takes any where from a week on to loosen the old paint.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Yes it is the Poly o ELO stripper. It's a shame that the Polly Scale line is being discontinued. I remember it when it was Polly O and it was the first real acrylic modeling paint. Ironocally, it was also the best.


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## tolenmar (Dec 5, 2011)

Ok, so to return to the original question, what other tips have you picked up that you wish you had known earlier than you did?


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## Night-Owl (Mar 17, 2000)

Best paint stripper IMHO is Castrol Super Clean.


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