# Re: Fusion Core 'frosting'...bear with me here.



## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

*Re: Fusion Core 'frosting'...bear with me here.*

Hi folks, 

Forgive me if this has already been discussed, but I'm wondering if anyone has considered dull coating the clear lens in the FC? I've been experimenting with the core and it seems to me, regardless of which FC product one selects, the LEDS are a little too bright. (And a touch too blue.)

Before I commit to a decision, I tried some simple masking tape to difuse the lights and knock off the slight blue tint. It works well applied to the inside of the clear piece, however it takes a little too much light away. Without it, there is too much light. Indeed, I could find a thinner tape, but I was thinking of simply of applying a light dull coat with a hint of yellow. Obviously, there is no 'going back' If I choose this method....Anyone have an opinion?

Gotta' say though, if I cannot come to a conclusion, I'll leave it as is and perhaps deal with it down the road - my model will not be sealed. And, that *finned* FC is a gorgeous addition - very clean and accurate IMO.

Thanks gang,
Mark


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Oh, I attacked mine with a piece of 800 grit sandpaper as soon as I got it. frosted it up real good


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You might test your idea by sticking some Scotch "Frosted" Tape on the inside.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

I just sprayed Clear Flat on the clear insert that goes in the fusion Core.

Spray both the Inside and Outside.

The problem may be the white Leds. They always give off a Bluish Hue. I know it's probably too late, but yellow Leds will give you a More accurate studio Look.:thumbsup:

Of course you could always try the method of dipping each Leds Tip in Clear Yellow/orange..Try it on another White led you may have on Hand, before doing it to you expensive fusion core.


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

this may sound a little intense but I had a motor rebuilt by the local machine shop they have a tool called a bead blaster , its a cabinet that they use to remove carbon from cyl heads and such, the basic theme is forced air with powdered glass/sand it produces a really fine frosted look on glass and or plastic, if you have local machine shop stop and ask how long and how much to do a sample pc,(should only take a minute and cost only a few bucks) try a sample pc of plexiglass and see if you like the effect...


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## jonboc (Nov 25, 2007)

*Frosted mine.*

I frosted the inside of the clear ring with Rustoleum "Frosted Glass" spray. Worked light a charm.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

beatlepaul said:


> I just sprayed Clear Flat on the clear insert that goes in the fusion Core.
> 
> Spray both the Inside and Outside.
> 
> ...


I'm having a core circuit built with alternating warm white and regular white LED's. I'm curious to see how it turns out


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Try this....

http://www.krylon.com/products/frosted_glass_finish/


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I sprayed mine with flat Testors white mixed 50-50 with Lacquer thinner. The same thing I sprayed the Magna Panels in back of the freezy tubes with.


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## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

Whoa.....what a great pile of ideas!!! I figured if I got 2 or 3 replies, I'd be happy...this is really great info and I have confidence I'm on the right track. 

As far as 'skinnyonce' is concerned, there is *nothing* too intense for this model! 

BTW - I just watched the unaired Pilot today - for ideas and because I hadn't seen it in ages. Man, talk about loads of SFX shots of the Gemini. Different launch sequence, alternate sounds, etc. I urge anyone currently working on the Moebius to screen it...besides, it's very cool. (I now have a terrible problem....I need to also do an inflight build!!!!!) I'm buying another kit for sure. 

I'm going to yank out some spare clear parts and do some tests.
Most grateful for everything I've learned in the last few months...you guys amaze me. 
Mark


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## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

I personally didn't even think about this being a problem.It makes perfect sense that frosting is the way to go.Don't want to criticize Moebius,but should they have left the fusion core mold part unpolished,which would have created that effect,or do some modelers prefer the fusion core to be clear.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

IMHO, I think molding it in clear plastic leaves ALL possible options to the individual modeller, so it was, in hindsight, a very wise decision.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

xsavoie said:


> I personally didn't even think about this being a problem.It makes perfect sense that frosting is the way to go.Don't want to criticize Moebius,but should they have left the fusion core mold part unpolished,which would have created that effect,or do some modelers prefer the fusion core to be clear.


Plus, whatever they do to that piece, they'd have to do to the entire sprue and the windshield is on that sprue.

I want my windshield clear, if you please


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## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

I stand corrected.You guys are absolutely right.Loved the quip about the clear windshield


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

Frosted Glass spray works great, just for god's sake use it OUTSIDE. That stuff will frost the inside of your lungs...


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## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

****Post Script****

After a couple of tests on scrap, I ended up using Testors Dullcoat.

It came exactly the way I wanted it. 

Mark


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## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

Certainly hope that Testors Dullcote doesn't get discolored with time.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

xsavoie said:


> Certainly hope that Testors Dullcote doesn't get discolored with time.


I used that on clear parts about 15 years ago and all is well. In fact I used it on clear resin too and that has stayed frosted without any yellowing at all.


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## [email protected] (Feb 1, 2001)

*Don't Fear the Dullcote!*

If you do get any Dullcote yellowing, it will only make your LEDs look warmer, like the original incandescent bulbs - bonus!


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## rondenning (Jul 29, 2008)

Here is a shot of the Fusion Core for a 24" Jupiter 2 I just finished-up for a customer.
I did the simple fix and used Testors dull-coat, and sprayed all the clear core "windows" with 3 coats of finish in all. 
The client had sent the yellow LED Fusion Core light circuit, so color was not an issue. I have never experienced yellowing of the dull-coat finish (yet). 
I have a bead-blaster, and it does a great job of "frosting" clear parts. I have tried the frosted glass paints before, with, to me, mixed results. Practice with the frosted glass paint on another piece to get the correct technique and "look" before applying it to the clear plastic core insert.
:devil:Ron:devil:


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## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

>Snip<
I did the simple fix and used Testors dull-coat, and sprayed all the clear core "windows" with 3 coats of finish in all.<

Looks great! I used 2 coats with pretty much a similar result. I hadn't considered discoloration, but it's nice to know the D/C should be okay. (Even some untreated clear parts can yellow over the years) I intend to display my 
J2 in a bookcase - it's very deep - with a hinged glass doors. (And a couple of Littlelites in the corners) It certainly won't be air-tight, but will protect it from dust and other city dirts, etc. I've LOVE to display my in-flight (When I buy it / build it) on the launch-pad kit, but that's not going to be for a while. 

Mark


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## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

>Snip<
I did the simple fix and used Testors dull-coat, and sprayed all the clear core "windows" with 3 coats of finish in all.<

Looks great! I used 2 coats with pretty much a similar result. I hadn't considered discoloration, but it's nice to know the D/C should be okay. (Even some untreated clear parts can yellow over the years) I intend to display my 
J2 in a bookcase - it's very deep - with a hinged glass doors. (And a couple of Littlelites in the corners) It certainly won't be air-tight, but will protect it from dust and other city dirts, etc. I've LOVE to display my in-flight (When I buy it / build it) on the launch-pad kit, but that's not going to be for a while. 

Mark


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Deja vu! Anyway, if you don't smoke or even better, have a smoke-free home, your clear parts should stay clear indefinatly.
If the windows were from a .10 thin sheet of clear plastic, they'd yellow within a couple of years just from UV rays alone, so your display case idea is a sound one.


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## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

Ooops, sorry for the double post.

M


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