# Trimmer Will Not Start



## JustJen (May 22, 2006)

Here is the story. My friend gave me a trimmer to see if I could get it running. So far no luck. This is what I have done. 
replaced fuel lines
replaced gas cap. 
replaced spark plug.
replaced primer bulb
checked the muffler to verify it is not clogged. 
rebuilt carb ( soaked it in carb cleaner overnight. blew it out with compressed air, installed carb kit. verified distance between seat and diaphram .005").
I did compression test( if it works the same for 2cycle as 4 the reading was between 95 and 100 psi. pulled the cord about 5 times)
set the carb H & L to 1.5 turns out. 
I have spark 
I have fuel. (The plug is saturated and fuel is running out the exhaust)
I have new high octane gas mixed 50:1.

Is it ready for the dumpster or am I missing somthing?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

If the spark plug gets wet with gas... it won't spark. The plug was of course gapped at .25? How are you determining that you have spark?


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## tom tilson (May 1, 2006)

If the plug is wet, you are moving fuel through the engine and as 
bugman has already said, wet plugs don't fire. If you had the carb dissassembled, you could have done some slight damage to the metering lever on reassemble. Sounds as though the pop pressure at the needle and seat is too low or the needle is not seating. Try this, remove the needle and take a q-tip wet with carb cleaner and twist around in the needle seat. If that does not get it, then attach a piece of gas hose to the inlet fitting and with carb dipped in mineral spirits blow through the tube with your mouth and note if there are air bubbles around the seat. Please describe what you mean about the .005 clearance between the seat and diaphram/ Is this a Walbro carb? Too sum it all up, you are either over choking or the metering seat is probably leaking by. Is carb to engine gasket in good cond and carb fitting up tight to engine?


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## tom tilson (May 1, 2006)

Make sure the metering spring is installed correctly and did not flop over to one side as you tightened the retainer screw.


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## JustJen (May 22, 2006)

I checked the gap on my plug it is .025.
I have a Zama carb.
In my previous post I'm refering to the metering level. I have checked the metering level by taking a straight edge placing it accros the carb and over the metering level. I then slid a feeler gauge under it to determine the amount of gap between the top of the carb and the metering level. 
The spring appears to be seated properly. 
At one point I took a hose and blew into the inlet and could not blow air thru the carb unless I opened the needle. Is that test sufficient or should I still do the test with the carb in mineral spirits?
I hacv not replaced the gasket between the carb and engine. Woulde that cause excessive fuel flow?


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## JustJen (May 22, 2006)

I got to thinking some more about the previous posts and thought that maybe I do need to check the metering level again. When I initially put the carb together fuel was leaking everywhere. I checke the seat and determined it was seating fine. Next I checked the metering level and deterimened it was set too hi. I then bent the lever so it now sits about .005 below the surface of the carb. After I made the adjustment I did not verify the needle was seating. Maybe I twisted the lever of somthing so it is now not seating properly..........

Can someone tell me why when you buy a new carb kit that the leveling device is not all ready set? I had the same problem with the float on and outboard motor.


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## tom tilson (May 1, 2006)

I want to help, but when I tried to reply, I filled the message box and my computer jammed. I am sending this and then make a post to ask others if you can overfill the message box and jam, or did my computer just hang up. Aggravating to lose a two paragraph unfinished reply


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## tom tilson (May 1, 2006)

I think if you buy a factory repair kit for the model carb you have, the lever may be preset, wheras if you get a generic kit, you will get an assortment of gaskets etc, including metering lever that will fit various models and it would be necessary to adjust it to your model carb. If you still have the lever that you took out to begin with, why not install it and hopefully the setting would be correct. The fuel pump delivers fuel at 5 to 7 psi to the needle valve. Attach a small air regulator tied into the same line that you were blowing through. Put the carb in min spirit or some non oxidizing liquid. With the regulator set at zero slowly increase air press while observing press gauge. When the neede pops off of its seat, air bubbles will be very prominent in the jar. Note the air press. this is the pop off press and this press has to be higher than fuel pump press or the engine will begin to flood as you pull the starter rope. If the press is too low, It could be that the lever is too high or the spring is to weak for your model carb. I hope that somehow we can help you through this, as joy comes from overcoming the obstacle as well as getting the rascal purring.


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## JustJen (May 22, 2006)

Thanks for the response! Unfortunatly I was not smart enough to hang on to the old carb parts. The 0-.012" settiing I got off of zamas web site I'm not sure how accurate it is. Also I think you are correct about the generic rebuild kit. I did get the assortment of gaskets but only one meter lever. Any way I bent the lever again to .012 and checked for leaks. With the adjustment I have been able to get the thing running and the carb adjusted appropriatly. I figure I'll give it a day or so to sit and see if it starts again before I declair if fixed. Thanks for all of the useful info.


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## blackwell_316 (Jun 27, 2006)

what kind of trimmer is it and what is the model #


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## blackwell_316 (Jun 27, 2006)

you may want to ck the flywheel key. if it is broke that would put it out of time. and the unit wont start


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