# TOS Enterprise aztec panels



## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

I'm wondering how many other people have decided to paint aztec panels on their TOS Enterprise. Of those who are, how are you painting them? First, I'm using a combination of larger deflector grid-defined sections with pearlescent powders. Then, I'm masking off the aztec panels and painting them with purple and blue interference paints. I'm going for a look that is very subtle and not too obvious. Also, what brand of masking are you using to mask off your aztec panels?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

That looks pretty good as is, I'd say!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Subtlety is key. I like what I see!


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## Prologic9 (Dec 4, 2009)

It's not something I'd do but I like to think about it. Some ideas;

Simply paint the pattern in regular hull color, leaving no color difference. The build up of the paint will catch the light, and weathering effects will enhance around edges.

For a perfectly smooth finish, instead of paint use weathering powders on the mask and let them 'stain' the surface. I'd plan on misting back over it with Hull color.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

You know, when you go back to the original filming miniature, there's a very interesting and unusual weathering pattern on the upper saucer. I really wish I knew if there was any more thought to it other than 'stage makeup' to direct the eye and provide contrasts under studio lighting. Was it meant to be exotic metals oxidizing, or micrometeorite erosion, or what?

On a personal level I'm not keen on the whole Aztecing thing as it usually lacks the subtlety of the original TMP paint job. I think the Enterprise-D looks more like 'space camouflage' than contrasts in materials and paint. But saying that, I think you're on the right track for what you're doing.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

I agree, Steve. I think that the subtle "mother of pearl" look has rarely been achieved and too often most people recreate the look of STTNG. I don't like that look. It looks like a giant checkerboard or dazzle camouflage look to my mind, too.

The TOS 11 foot Enterprise had no aztecing at all and for many years people even argued over the existence of whether or not it even had any grid lines. Therefore, I'm trying to make my aztec panels even less noticeable than on the refit STTMP Enterprise. I want you to only be able to see them if the light hits the model at the right angles. I think that the weathering should be much more obvious than any aztec panels.

Prologic9 - I may use some chalks for weathering, but they're too different in color for my taste in creating panels. I am using some pearlescent powders, though, just to break up large hull ares. I'm using Jaquard Products' Pearl Ex pigments rubbed onto the hull then a clear coat before I mask off the aztec panels. I'm using Pactra Racing Finish R/C Acrylic Change purple for some panels and the same paint but in blue for other aztec panels. It's an "interference" paint which means that the hull color remains the same but that it does have a slight blue-ish or purple-ish "gleam" when the light hits it right. After I remove the aztec masks I gave everything a very light mist of the original hull color (Tamiya AS-5) and a final coat of Tamiya clear pearl.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Subtlety is certainly key here. The TMP aztecs only show at certain angles. Look at the way Trekworks does his, he sprays it on in a light mist. It doesn't even build up a tape ridge it's so fine. If the colors are obvious across the whole surface from all angles it's too heavy.

For the TOS I've thought a base coat of gull gray with aztecs in blue and green would stay close to the original color scheme, but give it just enough detail to maintain a continuity with TMP.

You're doing a fine job here :thumbsup:


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## chood73 (May 5, 2014)

I know this isn't an answer to your question, but I just want to say WOW!!! :thumbsup: I love it!


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Looks wonderful!

FYI- the Bandai Refit kit used flat white and gloss white for it's aztec (almost invisible from most angles but gives a great texture as the light palys around the hull). 

I love your choice prismatic tinting- it ties in nicely with the Refit's hull but is subtle enough that you can believe it was always there but did not show up on screen.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

yup, that's just what I had in mind.. no discernible difference in finish until a light source hits it. only then do you see a pattern

most excellent


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> yup, that's just what I had in mind.. no discernible difference in finish until a light source hits it. only then do you see a pattern.


Exactly: almost a "grain" or "nap" difference, where we imagine panels being installed at different angles, revealing a different sheen for each … but the overall intent was a uniform grey colour. 

To me, for TOS, an aztecked ship (if we want to go that way) should look as if it were the same ship as the original, but where we now have the ability to take a closer look at it and see details that were always there, but were lost in the sixties filming process. So … at a distance, it would look like the original ship, but as our view shifts, we want to look closer because of the very slight shift in sheen. 

But that's opinion, of course -- it's up to each of us to display our own E the way we want!

(I should add that you've done a great job of weaving hue shifts into the mix, so the overall intent looks like grey overall. Very nice!)
(One more thing: love the major tiles. I wonder if it could use a secondary aztec, though? Don't hit me!)


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

I'm not sure what you mean by a "secondary aztec," SteveR. Do you mean to play up the color differences? I'm already unsure if I've made the aztec pattern and the larger hull sections TOO noticeable and not subtle enough.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Ah - sorry. I meant to add smaller rectangles to break up the main aztec pattern created by the mask. I think that in a good panelling job, the "aztec-like" pattern doesn't stand out, but instead we see a lot of smaller panels first.

Of course, it would be a lot more work.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

That's probably the nicest and most subtle aztecing that I've seen. Looks very good the way you've done it.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Nicely subtle.


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

Steve H said:


> You know, when you go back to the original filming miniature, there's a very interesting and unusual weathering pattern on the upper saucer. I really wish I knew if there was any more thought to it other than 'stage makeup' to direct the eye and provide contrasts under studio lighting. Was it meant to be exotic metals oxidizing, or micrometeorite erosion, or what?
> 
> On a personal level I'm not keen on the whole Aztecing thing as it usually lacks the subtlety of the original TMP paint job. I think the Enterprise-D looks more like 'space camouflage' than contrasts in materials and paint. But saying that, I think you're on the right track for what you're doing.


I'm still interested in hearing the answer to Steves question.

A stealth coating, reflects/deflects phaser hits, self healing coating, effects of warp travel?????


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## Falcon760 (Dec 17, 2013)

There isn't any Aztec ing on the TOS enterprise. There aren't any gridlines on the TOS enterprise. Not when I watched it on TV. It was smooth and that's it. That's all there is to it. It's called the smoothie for a reason.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Falcon760 said:


> There isn't any Aztec ing on the TOS enterprise.


Yes, we know. Aztecking the TOS E is recognized as a personal choice.



Falcon760 said:


> There aren't any gridlines on the TOS enterprise.


Sorry, there were gridlines faintly drawn on in pencil, more easily visible on the top of the primary hull. If you search the forum for "pencil" you'll probably find pictures and much discussion.

Ah, here's one. This is the top of the primary hull, untouched by the restoration:


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Thanks for the compliments and especially for the suggestions, guys! 

SteveR, thanks for the photo and I really like your suggestion of breaking up the pattern with smaller squares and rectangles. I'm not so far along that I couldn't do that so it so I will give your idea some serious consideration. I've had a similar idea, too, using just the interference paints applied very sparingly and lightly.

I'm also thinking that when I weather the hull, the aztec pattern will be further hidden, too. I don't want to get rid of the pattern - but I don't want it to be too discernible. 

Today, however, I'm focusing on painting and gluing into my bridge Paulbo's little photo-etched brass crewmen. I've already put some of the shadowcasters and brass 1/350 people behind many of the windows. 

I can highly recommend Paulbo's photo etched brass panels for the bridge. Not so keen on the decals that he included from JT Graphics, though, but the PE brass is wonderful.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Spawndude - That's an interesting thought, given the different colors and shapes of weathering on Enterprise's hull.

Besides the green and brown streaks, there seem to be grey-ish streaks, too, especially around the warp nacelles. Could they be burn marks from warp reactor coolant whenever Scotty or Spock pointed out that the engines were overtaxed and overheating? Excess intermix plasma vented from the engine manifolds? 

Plus, there's the famous "rust" ring on the top of the secondary hull - what's that all about? A slight materials difference from the surrounding hull? A Klingon, Romulan, Gorn, or some other alien weapon's damage? Think of all the micrometeors, cosmic radiation, upper atmospheres, comet tails, and the occasional alien space amoebas as well as yet unknown warp field radiations and other undiscovered forces.

I work at NASA and I see plenty of real space hardware exposed to the harsh conditions of Earth orbit - pits, discolorations, burns, etc. We even see the occasional burns from wires and insulation and cracked metals just in testing, too. Considering the even more exotic environments that Enterprise is exposed to every week, I can accept that some exotic weathering takes place and discolors the ship's outer hull. I wouldn't accept that a starship would look pristine after many years of service.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I still contend that the penciled lines were merely a ready reference guide to help in keeping the lettering and other markings properly aligned in case things needed to be changed for effects shots, other starship names in close-up for example. Not that it was ever done but I would easily believe Jefferies would plan for that potential. I don't think it was meant to be visible. Yet then again there's the undeniable fact those lines ended up as 'canon' by his own hand on the re-created orthos he generated for AMT and other art. So, more film history archeology, since we can't ask the creators and there is no other contemporary documentation we have only the evidence of the physical product and must grasp for understanding via the context as understood. 

I am still amazed on the delicacy and subtly of the weathering, very little of that was visible back in the day. For no logical reason it strikes me as a product of people who really cared, who thought beyond the bare bones necessity of the moment and the limitations of the technology. They must have known all that work would be washed out by the lights, the film duplication and effects process, the resolution of 1960's NTSC color broadcasting, but it's THERE. 

And heck, does no one think how much a miracle of engineering and craftsmanship it was to take the original unlighted model and re-work it to install lights and it wasn't a huge mess? That's a story I would have loved to learn about too. But time is past and all men die. Dust in the wind and all that.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Here's some photos of real weathering on spacecraft. And me.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

My issue with "real weathering" on most current spaceships is that they typically come back in through the atmosphere, which adds significantly to any weathering.

While I agree that out in space there is some type of weathering, I don't believe it is as drastic as people think.

If only we could see what the Voyager probe looks like now. It needs to take a selfie


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Very, VERY nice job sir.

I would appreciate a more detailed description of your technique.

What brands you used etc.
Its a very nice effect.

On a side note....
I've often considered painting a TOS in pure TMP style aztec colors and everything.

The logic being similar to originally painting the Space Shuttles external fuel tank white, then later, not painting it. Savings of cost, materials, weight whatever.

In the logical progression of the Star Trek shows, even though NX-01 was 'natural metal' then the Refit and everything after that, the TOS gray might have simply been an aesthetic choice in that period of Trek 'history'.

I've even considered a little diorama concept where the ship is in the final stages of construction and its only half painted gray, with little guys in space suits spraying the gray over the TMP color aztec.

Or another idea was to paint a finished TOS Constitution Class in the Refit Aztec colors/pattern, with the idea that it was built after Starfleet decided to drop the gray paint.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Well, first I used Aztek Dummy's window masks. Also, I haven't painted anything other than the bridge - which is a separate story - and the primary hull and dorsal. And some detail pieces like the Bussard domes, the warp nacelle recessed areas, the intercoolers, the ribbed "boxes" on the nacelle sides, the nacelle end caps, and the impulse drive parts.

First, I primed the inside and outside of the hull after masking off windows and such. This is partly to prevent light leakage and partly just to get an even color everywhere.

The basic hull color that I used was Tamiya AS-5 Light Blue (Luftwaffe) spray paint. I've used it in the past on my 1/1000 scale Enterprise models and my Space Station K-7. In my opinion, it is very, very close to the hull color of the 11 foot Smithsonian model. Admittedly, with age, previous restorations, and topped off with original and newer weathering, one cannot be sure, but it's close enough for my purposes.

After the AS-5 was dry I sprayed everything with Tamiya TS-65 Pearl Clear.

Then I randomly picked larger areas of the hull defined by clusters of deflector grid "squares." I masked those off with low tack tape and brushed and/or rubbed on Jaquard Products' Pearl Ex pigments 651 "Pearlwhite," 652 "Macropearl," and on the "rust ring" is 664 "Super Bronze." In the second photo of my original post that started this thread, you can see the Pearl Ex pigment powders on some sections before fully applying the Aztek Dummy masks and also (barely) see the bronze colored pigment powder under the masks covering the "rust" ring.

Followed by another coat of Tamiya "Clear Pearl."

After the Clear Pearl coat was dry, I masked off the hull with Aztek Dummy's Template Set #3 - Full Azteks.

Then I painted some now masked hull sections with Pactra Racing Finish Acryl #RC5712 R/C Acryl Change - Purple. Some other sections I randomly picked got #RC5702 R/C Acryl Change -Blue. Some sections of the hull got both.

Peeling off the masks came next which was very discouraging. The Aztek Dummy masks leave a whole lot of adhesive behind! It's a pain to get it off without damaging the paint and I'm sure that in removing the adhesive, I did, in fact, lose some of the aztec pattern. Removing the adhesive required a lot of rubbing with fingers, paper towels, toothbrushes with soap and water, and even toothpaste and baking soda as mild abrasives!

After I was finally convinced that all of the adhesive was gone, I gave everything another coat of Tamiya Clear Pearl. I felt that the iridescent colored aztec panels on the top of the primary hull were far too noticeable (although pretty) so I misted everything down with the original hull color, Tamya AS-5, and then applied another coat of Tamiya Clear Pearl.

So, that's my technique thus far as well as the materials that I've used.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Man, I am so sorry to hear you had problems with the masks.

Since I've switched to the orange material, I've not gotten any complaints but I've not tested the vinyl with that combination of paints, particularly the Tamiya clear finishes.

Can I ask how long you let that clear coat cure before you applied the masks?

I'd like to try to re-create it on this end to see if the same thing happens to me.

did you try alcohol on a q-tip to remove the adhesive?

Lou


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

I let the Tamiya Clear Pearl dry overnight after coating the Pearl Ex powders or even over a couple days before putting on the masks.

I haven't thought of using alcohol on a Q-tip to try to remove the adhesive. I may try that on a smaller piece like the main sensor/deflector housing. 

I didn't want to damage the R/C Acryl purple and blue. That's why I opted for gently rubbing off the adhesive or using the most mild abrasive I could think of. Once the Aztek Dummy paints have been peeled off they leave so much adhesive behind I don't see how they can be used again. They no longer stick very well to anything except to fingers, carpets, socks, instruction sheets, etc. But I plan to continue using the masks for the the secondary hull and nacelle struts. 

I'm planning on using a low-tack tape for the nacelles themselves since I want a very different pattern for the aztec panels than what the Aztek Dummy masks provide. I want to create a pattern rather more similar to the STTMP refit aztec panels.

On the whole, I like the Aztek Dummy masks, mind you, even with the monster adhesion issue. However, I do have to admit that I'd be seriously concerned about using them on a model of the TMP Enterprise since I'd want that to look clear, with well-defined (though subtle) aztec panels, and absolutely no weathering.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Also for stick-um left behind, I recommend most highly 'Goo Gone'. I've used it on all kinds of things to remove sticker residue and never had a problem with paint, plastic or paper. I've even managed to remove library card pockets and ID stickers from book pages without damaging the paper! (sometimes you buy a book online and are surprised to see it's an ex-library title. I like my books as pristine as possible.  )

Naturally try it on something you can repaint if needed, just in case. I would say a Q-tip dipped in Goo Gone rubbed on the stickum would take care of it.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

By the way, Lou, thank you very much for taking an interest in my mask adhesion issue. I really appreciate your concern and that you want to try to recreate the problem yourself. 

Here's a photo I took that might give you an idea of what the adhesives left behind by the masks looked like. This photo was taken after I had peeled up some of the masks and had already rubbed off most of the adhesive on half of the top section of the primary hull. This is also before I misted down the hull with the AS-5 to tone down the aztec iridescent panels. I hope that this helps your investigation!

Like I said, for the most part I like the Aztek Dummy masks. I have resigned myself to wrestling with the adhesive. If I were building another TOS Enterprise, I'd get another set of these. I'd also change the warp nacelle pattern, but that's purely my own artistic preference.

To be totally honest, though, if it were the STTMP refit Enterprise - I'd be a wee bit hesitant about buying a set of those. I might go with Round 2's aztec decals instead and just tone those down somehow.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

my first impulse would be to think about the pactra being sprayed over the vinyl. generally I don't recommend clear finishes sprayed on vinyl because they can sometime melt the vinyl a bit and that'll make the "gooey-er" 

I've got an RC shop locally and I'll see if they have the pactra paint

thanks,
Lou


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

modelmaker 2001 said:


> Here's some photos of real weathering on spacecraft. And me.


You need more weathering. Makeup!


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

hahahaha LOL 

I'd hate to see what exposure to a plasma filament, an ion storm, or a star going nova would do to my skin!


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Lou - I don't know if it makes any difference regarding the adhesive left by the Aztek Dummy masks. I think that you're assuming that I airbrushed the Pactra paints. I actually brushed them on by hand using a red sable brush.


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

I'm a little late to this discussion, but I just wanted to say it looks beautiful! It's nice to see the personal variations on an old classic. 

You work for NASA??? What do you do if I can ask? I would love to work there or one of the private space agencies for my next career.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

modelmaker 2001 said:


> Lou - I don't know if it makes any difference regarding the adhesive left by the Aztek Dummy masks. I think that you're assuming that I airbrushed the Pactra paints. I actually brushed them on by hand using a red sable brush.


actually, I'm more interested in the chemical composition of the pactra paints and whether they'll have a bad reaction to the vinyl, regardless of the method of application...


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

He mentioned he handbrushed the paint, I wonder if the more intense application of the carrier/solvent had an effect, because it seems logical that there would be much more fluid transfer 'fresh from the bottle to the brush to the model' compared to the gentle misting (and subsequent slight evaporation) from an airbrush or even rattlecan spray.

maybe?


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

harristotle - I work in education/public outreach at the Visitor's Center and I also run the GeoDome planetarium at NASA Goddard Space Flight Center. Thanks for the compliments.

Lou - I'm thinking that my adhesion issue is probably with the Tamiya Clear Pearl rather than with the Pactra R/C Acryl paints. The Tamiya Clear Pearl was sprayed all over before I put the masks down and hand painted the Pactra paints went on top of the masks.

Have you tried putting the masks on top of Testor's clear lacquer finish? Or do you recommend skipping the clear finish and putting the masks down directly on top of the base paint color, which in my case is the Tamiya AS-5?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

as a rule of thumb, I usually put the vinyl over paint layers only. After I peel up the vinyl, then I'll start the clear finishes. a gloss before applying decals then a flat over the whole shebang after the decals have set


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> as a rule of thumb, I usually put the vinyl over paint layers only. After I peel up the vinyl, then I'll start the clear finishes. a gloss before applying decals then a flat over the whole shebang after the decals have set


Wouldn't that nullify any gloss/matte aztecing?


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

That is a concern of mine, too. I liked having a slight difference between gloss and semi gloss look.

But you recommend using the masks directly on top of paint. How long would you leave your paint to dry before applying your masks, Lou?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I'll let the paint cure at least overnight before masks.

I generally make my azteks with paint color, however I've seen really good results with gloss/matte finishes and the templates when the finishes were acrylic. enamels were less successful, but the biggest offenders seem to be laquers. something in them reacts to the vinyl and makes them melt a tiny bit.

of course to best insurance against the paint peeling up is washing the parts to start with and a good, well cured primer coat.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Interesting and a good tip, Lou. My Tamiya T-65 Pearl Clear is a lacquer, as far as I know. That certainly could account for the adhesive being left behind after I peeled up the masks.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> ...but the biggest offenders seem to be laquers. something in them reacts to the vinyl and makes them melt a tiny bit.


Lacquers also go down thinner on the surface, so any pull up would be more noticable.

I used all lacquers on my Optimus Prime. At first I didn't wash the parts, and I didn't use a primer, and indeed your black masks pulled up my paint. However, as you advised, when I cleaned the parts and put down a nice primer coat, your masks came off without any paint issue.

I am anxious to try out your orange masks, and just btw, I'm still going to get back to you on the JJprise, just been busy.


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