# Newbie



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Hello! I'm new here! I've been thinking of starting up on this hobby. It is something that has intrigued me since i was little. Just curious on how much the start up cost would be. That is a model car along with paint and tools required to make it look pristine. I'm not talking about hardcore model kits nor beginner (pre-painted/assembled) kits. Something in the middle. Any tips?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Depends on the scale and what you want to do. A kit can cost as little as $10 and go to the extremes. You can buy rattle cans of paint, or bottles, but with bottles you have to use an airbrush. 
If I were you, just beginning, I would choose a kit I like, research it find color codes, match that car as much as you can, while learning all the steps.
Buy a kit, xacto knife, sanding sticks(emery boards are good for this) primer, and a few cans of color that you want to paint your kit with. If you want detail paint, buy some craft paint at Michaels for 60 some cents a bottle. The craft paint is water soluble and are easy to remove if you mess up. Modeling is not about the start up costs, but acquiring the things from one kit to the next. You can also find Testor paint sets that have about 8 bottles of the mostly used colors at your craft or hobby stores.
Making a car look pristine takes time to develop those skills.

Most people got started by, getting a kit, and gluing it together, just to learn those steps. Painting would be your next step in learning. 
Most kits have skill levels marked on the boxes, 1 being "snap" kits and 3 being skills are needed.
Also you may want to find a modeling club in your area, and sit in on a few meetings. Most modelers are happy to help a fellow modeler. You will be able to ask questions and get answers from those with similar interests.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Where are we starting from? Have you built anything before? How are you with hand tools?


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

For the scale i was thinking 1/24 or 1/18. I've put a few kits together before though they weren't all cars. A few jets and other things. I've had a snap kit before and it looks nice and all but i felt i didn't do anything. It was already painted and i just had to snap the pieces together to make it whole. I want to get involved in it a little bit more than that. Don't think we have modeling clubs in this part of town or any clubs for that matter. In fact, I have to drive 15 miles before finding a nice little hobby store. Its hidden and tucked away like a secret store. As for hand tools I'd say I can handle tools. My hands are steady and precise. I'll probably head to that hobby store tomorrow and get everything i need.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

I'm not sure how complicated the kits that you built were, so here's a bit of early-level (post-snap-kit) advice.

I would buy the kit and some tools first: liquid cement, gap-filling CA glue, hobby knife with blades, some emery boards, grades of sandpaper (try to get a set: 250 to 1000 maybe?), putty for styrene models and a pair of diagonal cutters (wire cutters) to cut sprue. Get an Opti-visor if you have a few years on you. Have a bright desk lamp and a comfortable chair, too.

Take this home and crack open the kit. Study the instructions. Confirm the colors through the instructions -- Tamiya kits are good at calling out all paint colors. Assemble the parts that you expect to paint one color. I mean, assemble something that is supposed to be black, and assemble something that's supposed to be red, but don't assemble the red thing to the black thing. You'll be spending a bit of time cleaning up parts and smoothing joints: take your time: learn to slow down and be gentle, because you don't want to take off too much plastic when you cut or sand. Adding material with putty when you've sanded off too much is a bit of a pain, and can be avoided by careful sanding.

Then go back to the shop and buy the brushes and paints you need, along with something to hold them when you paint them: tweezers, bamboo sticks, tape, tacky stuff. Spray paint is good for things too big for brush painting: in my younger days, I would brush paint things like engine blocks, but I can see the brush marks now, so I prefer spray paint (airbrushed acrylics) for everything but tiny details. Your brush should be no bigger than the thing you want to paint, and it should be right for the type of paint: acrylics brushes for acrylic paints. I'd probably use enamels for brushing, but I hear that Tamiya has something to add to their acrylics to make them easier to brush. Check the web.

Why the delay? Well, unless you're the sort who likes to paint while the parts are on the sprue, you have to assemble a bunch of parts before painting anyway. Also, this reinforces the need for patience. If you set the goal of buying-assembling-painting-finishing in one weekend, you'll probably rush it. At this stage, you need to be patient and get an idea of how long tasks really do take.

Now if you knew all that, then I'd say that building cars is the same as building any other subject ... at a basic level. Off the top of my head, here are a few differences: the tires are rubber, so you sand the tread for realism; you want a shiny body, so use gloss paint, wet-sand between coats (check the web); you may want to add wiring and plumbing, so check web references of real engines for that; and you can swap parts from other kits and aftermarket sources ... as long as they fit, but you can modify frames and engine mounts for that sort of thing. You can still use military techniques like washes in grills for realism, but many guys keep their cars clean.

Make sense?


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Yes it makes perfect sense... unfortunately i jumped the gun and went to the shop and bought myself a kit a few paints, brushes, glue, and an x-acto knife. I got a level 2 thinking it was going to be nice. You know not too easy and not too hard. But when i opened the package i was... way out of my league... ha! But! I'm not one to give up so easily so i read through everything and washed it and started well... painting them while they're on the sprue. You know i decided to do the "simple" things... the car seat and other "tan" colored items. It turned out nicely so i moved onto "black" and ran into problems. I should read up some more. I did my first coat of paint and there was a lot of white so i let it dry... maybe 3-4 hours i thought it was dry enough so i started painting a second coat... and the first coat started coming off and just becoming wet again. I figure i should let it dry at least a day now as some forums said... Well now that i screwed myself over by choosing to build something out of my league... what are some tips to make this seemingly impossible task... not so impossible?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

What kind of paint did you buy? Enamels can take longer to dry. Plus you only want to mist the coats on. DO NOT TRY TO GET COMPLETE COVERAGE IN 1 COAT. That only leads to frustration and problems. Did you prime the body first? Don't get discouraged, it can be salvaged.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Yes i bought little tiny things of Model Master Enamel paint. I was told a long time ago while painting walls or any other things to never try to fully coat it in one pass, to do a light coat then cover it up nicely. So i figured same thing applies here. What i wasn't fully aware of was the priming. I thought priming was placing a white coat of paint to make whatever color comes after bounce out and become brighter, seeing as how the plastic was already white i skipped that step. I simply washed the material thoroughly and let it dry. I decides to wait 24 hours before putting a second coat. In the meantime i will just try to figure out what is what and find out how i'm going to assemble this... crazy thing...


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

sadly i'm also using brushes. Did not get a chance to buy a paint gun. But it still looks nice.

I just examined my second coat of paint which failed... i see some paint layered on top uneven and even very tiny bubbles... i read about this micro bubbles in the paint... think the fix is "wet" sanding.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Look at your instruction sheet. If you can glue some parts together that get painted the same color, go for those, like engine halves, axle assy. Can I ask what kit you got, so if I have built it or others, we may be able to help you more so, than not knowing, unless it is your choice to be anonymous with it. Don't feel bad about painting with brushes, I still brush paint alot of parts and assemblies, but I always either spray can or air brush the bodies.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

I'm actually doing everything except the body with brushes... i'm seriously considering buying a paint gun... just have to find a nice one. I wasn't trying to hide what model i got just didn't think of mentioning it. It is a "Performance Lamborghini countach lp500s" by revell 1:24 scale

I was also thinking of building items and painting them together like that... I was looking at the engine... but it just got very intimidating and decided to go with something a little more simple... the seats...


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

xHibarix said:


> I was also thinking of building items and painting them together like that... I was looking at the engine... but it just got very intimidating and decided to go with something a little more simple... the seats...


Just do one thing at a time. Patience. go slow. Glue together the engine halves, then go away. Come back. Read the instructions. Choose the next single step. Go away. Come back. Do the next step. Go away …


… and you can't make good stuff without making bad stuff first! So don't sweat it! Start with an inexpensive kit and have at it! Learn! Mess up!


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

the instructions says to paint a very very small detail black so i did... came out very sloppy... how in the world are you supposed to paint such a small detail??? its the part where the stick shift goes to hold it... its just so small... do i use a toothpick?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Toothpicks will help in small details. Like the caps on a battery, you may want to chop the tip flat, so you can just dab on a bit of paint.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

my hands never shook so much before... ha! now to figure out how to remove the decal from its holder and place it on the seat...

*sigh* problem after problem... brush streaks in paint... bubbles in paint... i'll give in and buy the paint gun after all... gonna have to sand it down


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

xHibarix said:


> my hands never shook so much before... ha! now to figure out how to remove the decal from its holder and place it on the seat...
> 
> *sigh* problem after problem... brush streaks in paint... bubbles in paint... i'll give in and buy the paint gun after all... gonna have to sand it down



It's a learning process my friend! The way I learned it, I had to build about 15 or 20 crappy looking kits before mine started to look decent. It's a hoary old cliche but it's true, practice makes perfect. Plus, you'll need a spare parts box so those first 15 or 20 kits will help to fill it!


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Exactly! All of us have done what you have done, and made the same mistakes.
There are no shortcuts! You have to make crap before you make excellence!

BTW, to aid with steadiness when painting tiny bits, clamp the part in a vise or something, then steady your painting hand (or the brush) by resting it on something else that's steady. (Why should you have to hold up your hand when it's not supposed to move very much?)


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

SteveR said:


> Your brush should be no bigger than the thing you want to paint...


By that, I meant that if you want to paint a knob on a gearshift lever, the brush _width_ should be no bigger than the _knob_.


----------



## DodgeAddict (Mar 9, 2014)

You can buy a basic kit have between $20-30 to your door or HL,HT & others more$$ for more skill needed most times is how it works A full round of testors paints with brushes & knife $35-40 

Once you become hooked it's however much you want to spend 
I've been hooked for 41 years straight


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

why didnt i think of that... resting my hand on something so it wont move as much... well just got done painting the dashboard and radio... with a toothpick... a bit sloppy i like how it came out.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

yes it's very enjoyable... i just wish the paint dried quicker! i hate seeing half finished work without being able to do something.

i know i know patience... its just exiting


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

xHibarix said:


> yes it's very enjoyable... i just wish the paint dried quicker!


Oh, yes! This is why some of us have more than one (cough) model kit. While the paint on one kit is drying, we can work on another one!


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

i have more than one model kit... but i dont want to touch the other one... this one was the "easiest" looking... the other one is... it just has soooooo many parts... i bought it thinking it was going to be a beginner one since it said it was already painted... but the plastic was just painted one color... it doesnt even have a skill level anywhere in the box... yeah i wont be touching that one for a while. It's the Chrstine AMT 1/25 scale... turns out its a level 3 skill... yeah i wont be touching that for a long time.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

So … buy another kit!


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

So my airbrush arrived... and again instead of doing some research i go and jump the gun. I tested it on a cardboard and it looked nice and simple to use... but as soon as i go to my mode... well everything is going good at first, nice coat and all but then i start seeing little paint drops forming... Now my model car has i guess what they call an orange peel effect?


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

xHibarix said:


> So my airbrush arrived... and again instead of doing some research i go and jump the gun. I tested it on a cardboard and it looked nice and simple to use... but as soon as i go to my mode... well everything is going good at first, nice coat and all but then i start seeing little paint drops forming... Now my model car has i guess what they call an orange peel effect?


Orange peel at best, runs and drips at worst... 

Cardboard is going to give you different results than the plastic body of the car, the cardboard will absorb much more paint and dry a lot quicker. My suggestion is to grab some old plastic from around the house (food containers, old storage containers, etc.) and practice your technique on those. There are many variables with airbrushing, not the least of which is distance from your subject, air pressure, ambient temperature, thinness of the paint, type of paint, just to name a few. Did you prime the car first?

Again, the way I learned (and am STILL learning BTW) is to PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. It takes a little while to get the *feel* of the airbrush, knowing when to pull back, when to reduce air pressure, when to thin the paint more (or less) when *NOT* to paint (ambient temp might be too cold). I can't emphasize the practice enough. To me, it's worth the time and effort to refine your technique and get it right more often than not. Otherwise you'll spend more time stripping paint and re-spraying, than making progress on your build, and that gets old fast. Ask me how I know!


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Maybe get some disposable plastic utensils or bowls or scrounge some blister packs: clear plastic packaging. Wash it first. Get something the size of the thing you want to paint and practice on that.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Think i'll do that, but first i have to get larger quantity of paint these little testors are running out. And no i did not prime it but i'm currently looking into that and will buy some along with new paint.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

The primer could be shot from a can. I do this as well. Then use the airbrush for the base and clear coats.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Finally figured out why my damn airbrush wasn't working... the paint was coming out slowly and it looked dry... The problem of course was User Error... I was not thinning out the paint enough... after getting frustrated and super thinning the paint it turned out the flow was perfect...paint looked fresh and wet and it even left a glossy shine. Finally some progress


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Excellent. Soon, you'll be giving us advice!


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

One more lesson learned today... so i bought this special acrylic thinning agent to... well... thin my acrylic paint... turns out my paint doesn't like it one bit. After mixing and shaking for quite some time... it just ends up sinking to the bottom and leaves my paint floating on top. My airbrush sprayed out the thinner and clogged up every time it reached the paint. So after giving up i was mad and poured the paint back to the little container... Angry at the residue in the airbrush i filled it with Paint thinner... shook it and sprayed it out... The paint loved it -_-. It was a perfect flow and it was painting perfectly. So Frustrating and embarrassing... But my acrylic paint loves paint thinner... I'm now angry at this "Special" acrylic paint thinner that didn't work. But my car is looking great.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

xHibarix, Here is a link to a gentleman, that airbrushes Acrylic paints and uses windshield washer solvent as thinner. For the cost of the "Special" thinner you could buy 3 gallons of the washer fluid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bbHTLgPXaM
Hope this helps you and others as well.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

I know, i've seen that video but having already bought the "special" thinner... well i assumed it would be best but it was horrible


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

xHibarix said:


> I know, i've seen that video but having already bought the "special" thinner... well i assumed it would be best but it was horrible


In general, I've found that most acrylics like to be thinned around 2:1. Perhaps experimenting with different amounts of thinner will help you gauge how much you need for the type of paint you're using with whatever air pressure you have it set to. Also remember the distance from your subject is important too. Practice!


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Consistency like skim milk?


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

SteveR said:


> Consistency like skim milk?


That seems about right, actually.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

ok after so much failure and things happening my model car is just a few more steps to completion. Just need to put the wheels on. Sadly after so much impatience and so much grabbing some of my paint came off, mostly on edges. I went in and used a q-tip and sort of rolled it on like a rolling pin. looked all right and i figured when it dries it would blend in sort of. Oh was i wrong lol there are streaks everywhere and now to fix it i'll have to tape up my model and airbrush it again. The problem now is i'm using a heavy duty compressor and its hard to adjust the pressure. So does anyone know of a airbrush compressor or something of that sort? something small and portable that can be used indoors. And any tips on fixing my model?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

If you have a Harbor Freight near you, you could just purchase a small regulator, and save the expense of a compressor. As for the ruined model, put it on a shelf, to look at, and to remind yourself of your problems you had. Later on in your modeling career(using term career as a life time of fun, headaches and heartaches) you can see how your skills have progressed. In modeling, you will be forced to learn patience, so that is why some of us have more than 1 kit progressing at the same time, while 1 is drying another kit could be assembling. As for the streaks in the paint, as long as the body is not attached to the chassis you may want to consider stripping the body and re-painting. My compressor is in my garage, and I have a long hose running to the basement where I work. The hose, moisture trap and regulator are in the basement where I can adjust without leaving my work-space and total cost of those items was less than $25. If you are so inclined to get a smaller compressor the cost could be as little as $80 on sale for $60 http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html and go up from there. This is not to discourage you, but to give you some thing to think about. If you need more advice, just ask away, I have been in the hobby related business for over 30 years.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

damn i figured people were using a long chord... i was hoping for a compressor that i could have in my room and didn't make so much noise. Kind of hard to work outside with the wind blowing and dust everywhere. Then my dog gets scared of the compressor and he starts rubbing on my legs like a cat... it wouldn't be so bad if it was a small dog but this guy is huge! Wolf/pit hybrid. Well i guess i'll have to work something out.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Oh another question... i've been using superglue... so when i glued the clear plastic parts they became foggy... is there a glue out there that wont do this?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Elmers White glue, or watch crystal glue. There is a super glue that won't fog windows it is the gold super + Can be found at some hobby shops. As for a noise free compressor, they really are not that silent as well, but they can cost upwards of $200. A small pancake compressor with a box built around it of wood, with some Foam board type insulation from Home Depot would make it tolerable.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

another thing!

Clear coating! I hear people speak highly of Dupont A-7480S but well... it's hard to find... any good recommendations on clear coats?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

The Dupont can be purchased at NAPA, or automotive paint stores. You could also buy an aerosol can, of any clear coat, decant and airbrush it. I myself purchase Duplicolor Clear in cans and do this. Also Future Acrylic Floor Finish could be used as a clear coat.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Does the Dupont need to be over a lacquer … or would it work over enamels or acrylics?

BTW, you might be able to dip the clear part in Future to give it a new, smooth coat. Then you can use the white glue or watch crystal glue (Micromark has that).

Don't worry about the mistakes. Like we've _never_ done _everything_ you've described.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

The Dupont Clear is an Acrylic Enamel and can be shot over Acrylic or enamel. I think there would be an issue over lacquer.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

i went ahead and bought the special glue that dries clear as glass at a hobby store today. Now the problem is i cant remove the plastic part already glued lol I got one side out but the other seems to be really stuck. Got some sand paper and started buffing down the errors... Got some new paint and am going to make different thinned out batches of Paint starting with a 1:1 then 1:2 and so on. I read to achieve a high gloss finish, the thinner you go the better but you have to spray very very light coats the higher the ratio. We'll see how it goes.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

Oh and my Napa auto shop store didnt cary that product  either that or the guy helping me out had no idea what i was talking about. I guess i'll find a way to order online.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

You could try freezing the model in the freezer, let it warm to room temp, and repeat. The expansion and contraction should assist in making come loose.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Water sanding between coats would also build depth into the overall finish.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

vypurr59 said:


> Water sanding between coats would also build depth into the overall finish.


Oh, yes. With very fine grits, eventually with rubbing compound if you like.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

2 questions
1. Does anyone know a substitute thinner for the "Testor" Enamel Paint?
and
2. Why shouldn't paint thinner be used to clean airbrushes?


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

You could use the cheap brand lacquer thinner from Home Depot, or Loews, to thin Testors Enamels. Paint thinner is usually a mineral spirits. As for cleaning your air brush with thinners, it could cause teflon seals and rubber o-rings to deteriorate. I take my airbrush apart, and remove the seals and only soak the metal parts enough to wipe them clean. Be careful with the needle. I usually wipe it clean with lacquer thinner.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

i have trouble getting the paint out of the little container. It gets quite sticky.


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

The container you can soak, they are no seals in it. You can use Pipe Cleaners in it also.


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

xHibarix said:


> i have trouble getting the paint out of the little container. It gets quite sticky.


Airbrushing gets messy. I find if I prepare ahead of time, get everything ready and in place, switching paints and cleaning goes a lot smoother. Have your thinners, paper towels, water, etc. all set up, along with q-tips and pipe cleaners, perhaps latex gloves too. Takes a few times to get used to the routine, but it helps to have one, for me.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

yeah i'm getting the routine down but now i just cant get rid of the orange peel effect... i read that its because its not enough paint and it dries as it hits... Well i got a bit frustrated and over sprayed on a corner of the model... the end result was very smooth and no orange peel... now i'm trying to replicate that and i just cant get it! I mess with air pressure and distance and when i spray i get that orange peel... though its not as bad as it was before but its still there! If i stay too long it gets runny i went through an entire tester trying to get rid of this effect... at least it has a nice big layer of paint. Any tips?


----------



## -Hemi- (May 5, 2014)

Welcome aboard! There is a multitude of ways you can go about any hobby really... This one, is pretty simple (personally) I'd take your Lamborgini. And get all the paints you want to use on it, say from Micheals Craft Stores (REMEMBER you can use a 40% coupon for the most expensive item you buy there....) Then be sure to buy the color of paint you want to make the body in a spray can again at the same store..... This will save you both time and fuel as driving from one store to the next, will have you going in circles!

Now granted once you open the models box, read through the instructions, get to know the parts on each sprue, and figure out the "look" you want....

Once your sure of what color you want o make the parts in say step one, go on to paint them, with a brush.

As time passes the more easier things will become. The more models completed, the better each one will be from the last one you finished.

Once your "into" your "safe" place painting and assembly, assembly itself will teach you GREAT patients, and that too is time consuming, BUT as you paint parts, BE SURE to paint everything that requires that one color to be painted as you want, as then you won't have to stop, clean out your brush and then carry on again. You'll be that one single step ahead of the game!

THEN after you get your model ready for body painting, you will want to wash it in the kitchen sink, with dish soap....this will remove ALL impurities that will hamper the paint from adhering to the plastic. ALLOW to air dry, do NOT rub it dry as this will put lint, AND static electricity on the shell. THIS attracts dirt to stick, and if you paint it like this, all that dirt will end up in the finish and isn't easy to get out....

Once you have that body painted allow it to sit and cure, NOT just dry. As you will need to handle it just a bit to get it to fit to the frame that came with your model.

As you get more and more comfortable, you'll see what some here were speaking about with air brushes, and other things, adding wire for spark plugs, brake lines, fuel lines etc. it can be as simple as you like or as complicated as you like. I myself go from spark plug wires, to fuel lines TO THE FUEL TANK, and even brake lines! I'm also adding battery cables too! All with the same sort of wire that most here knows from Detail Masters, I myself use a wire much the same from Radio Shack to represent those real wires that I've mentioned, AND fuel lines to the (in my case) carburetors...The Lamborgini, that's fuel injection.

As for getting your hands to go with the thoughts of your mind, this comes with practice, the more you do the better you'll get. Its not a skill any one of us were born with we all here had to work at it, you know? The more you do something the better you get doing it and the faster you get doing it.

I myself have been a model builder all of my life......... sadly tho, I've recently gotten back into building model cars and trucks as I was a model railroader and still am! I just had some health issues that sat me down for awhile and needed a break from the other stuff, plus, My Dad was an auto builder, a real auto builder and he had me building a model of his real car.....And it re-opened that old skill I used to do. Up till about 6 months ago, I haven't touched a model car in 15 - 20 years....BUT in that time, I've built thousands of Scale model trains, mostly HO but a few other scales as well. (whole other world) so with that, I already had a lot of what I needed to get back into the scale model cars so.....

Enjoy it, take your time, and go slow, test fit ALL parts BEFORE gluing them as trimming and sanding is much more difficult once painted or glued in wrong....RUSH on your kit for no reason! The more time you take, the more that will show in the end!


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

xHibarix said:


> yeah i'm getting the routine down but now i just cant get rid of the orange peel effect... i read that its because its not enough paint and it dries as it hits... Well i got a bit frustrated and over sprayed on a corner of the model... the end result was very smooth and no orange peel... now i'm trying to replicate that and i just cant get it! I mess with air pressure and distance and when i spray i get that orange peel... though its not as bad as it was before but its still there! If i stay too long it gets runny i went through an entire tester trying to get rid of this effect... at least it has a nice big layer of paint. Any tips?


Everything -Hemi- posted above is true. A few thoughts of my own: It sounds as if you're perhaps not thinning the paint enough... what ratio are you using, paint to thinner? Also, what air pressure do you have your brush set for? From my experience, you don't want the paint to dry immediately after it hits the car, you want some wetness to remain for a few minutes, that tells me I have plenty of paint and it's well thinned. My suggestion would be to try a little more thinner, and remember to keep your hand moving across your subject, that is, move as smoothly as you can from side to side, not switching directions until you're off the model, THEN switch back and don't stop spraying when you're on it, only when you've moved off. The speed at which you move your hand side to side can change things too. Also, ambient temperature can wreak havoc on painting... was it it warm out when you were spraying? A lot of factors, I know, but again, practice will guide you toward better results when you know what it _*feels*_ like to produce bad results. I know it's tedious, but keep experimenting, and soon enough you'll discover the technique that works best for the brush you're using. Just be patient!


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showfull.php?photo=54914
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showfull.php?photo=54915
Finally finished... sadly i lost a piece  one of the headlights


----------



## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Very Well Done and congrats on finishing this one. This was the hard one, they all get easier from here(so I keep telling myself). Only 1 lost part is not bad. I have lost more parts due to pets, and/or temper tantrums.


----------



## -Hemi- (May 5, 2014)

vypurr you got a chuckle outta me with the temper tantrums comment.. I think all MODELERS have a fight with those!


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Congratulations! :thumbsup:


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Nice work dude! Didn't know you were doing black, that's one of the toughest colors to get right, but it looks like you did it! I really don't see too much grain in the paint, looks pretty slick.


----------



## xHibarix (Mar 10, 2014)

thanks! i kept buffing and polishing and sanding and buffing and repainting and buffing and sanding and repainting and.... so on... i think i went through 1.5 gloss black testers but the end result was nice. It has a mirror finish with no orange peel


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

See? Your hard work paid off, the kit looks great, and you got some precious build experience and knowledge that you'll apply to your next build. Make that airbrush your best friend and you'll be repaid with ever-better-looking models. 

What's next on the workbench?? :tongue:


----------

