# Poulan Pro BVM200 Blower, Will Not keep running



## brennanspapa

I have a Poulan Pro BVM200 blower that I got at a yard sale. The seller said it would not run, and it wouldn't. I bought it. I checked the plug and it was clean. I checked the primer bulb and it would not fill with fuel. I checked the fuel tank and found that the smaller tube in the tank was totally destroyed. I replaced the bad smaller tube and blew out the larger tube. The primer bulb now fills with fuel. I was able to get the motor started a number of times but after about 10 seconds it stops. I have read that there is a fuel filter somewhere but have not been able to find it. I think the filter may be blocked. Any guidance on the filter or what may also be wrong that causes to motor to stop after 20 seconds? Any help will be appreciated.


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## usmcgrunt

Hello and Welcome to Hobby Talk.First the bad news,these blowers are pretty much considered throw aways.

The screws that hold the cylinder to the crank case and the screws holding the carb to the intake manifold have a tendency to loosen from vibration.Once air is drawn in,the fuel mixture gets leaned out causing the piston and cylinder wall to score from lack of lubrication.If you have a compression gage,see if you have 100psi or very close to it.You can remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder wall through the exhaust port.If you see deep scratches,it is not cost effective to repair it.Grab the spark plug and try pushing it back and forth to see if the cylinder mounting bolts are loose.If loose,tighten.Next try moving the carb back and forth to see if it's screws are loose.

The fuel filter is attached to the end of the smaller fuel line entering the tank.There should be about 4 inches of line inside the tank with the filter on the end.It may have fallen off from the broken line.The larger line is the return line and only has about 1 inch of line in the tank.

There is a small screen inside the carb that may be partially blocked because of the missing fuel filter.The carb should be removed,disassembled,and cleaned with carb cleaner and low pressure air through all the small holes.If the diaphragms are stiff,they should be replaced with a Walbro K20-WAT repair kit (around $8).Here is a link to the Walbro WT carb manual.Hope this helps.

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/WTseries.pdf


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## brennanspapa

Wow, I am starting to think I may need to toss this thing. I just took the carburator completely apart, cleaned the ports with a tiny wire and blew all the holes out. I rearranged the fuel line in the tank, which does not have a filter and did not have one when I got the machine. I got it started and it ran for about 20 seconds this time but stopped again. Then it would start then quickly stop again and again. I have rechecked the screws and bolts, which appear tight. Well, I think the next step is bye bye. Thanks for your reply and information.


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## geogrubb

brennanspapa said:


> Wow, I am starting to think I may need to toss this thing. I just took the carburator completely apart, cleaned the ports with a tiny wire and blew all the holes out. I rearranged the fuel line in the tank, which does not have a filter and did not have one when I got the machine. I got it started and it ran for about 20 seconds this time but stopped again. Then it would start then quickly stop again and again. I have rechecked the screws and bolts, which appear tight. Well, I think the next step is bye bye. Thanks for your reply and information.


Don't give up quite yet, when you pump the primer do you see air bubbles in the fuel line, if so the fuel line in the tank is out of the fuel, the filter is the weight that keeps the fuel line where the fuel is, tie something on the end of the fuel line to see if it will stay running, if it does, get a filter, if it doesn't you have other problems. If part of the fuel lines was bad they are all bad. Have a good one. Geo


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## brennanspapa

Good idea. I will try it. Thanks!


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## Rentahusband

Pretty sure you will need replace the gaskets/diaphragms and the screen in the carb. Cleaning will not always do the trick. If it has not been run for awhile, the diaphragm is probably dried out and will not function properly. I have overlooked the screen before as it "looked" clean. Does it feel like it has descent compression when you pull the starter rope?


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## brennanspapa

How do I get to the screen. The diaphram and gasket look to be in good condition. The screen could be the problem. The compression seems good. Thanks for the help.


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## John Lolli

I have found that sometimes the compression may read ok and still have loose cylinder head bolts as usmcgrunt has suggested - especially on Craftsman and Poulan models. The problem is on the downstroke of the piston not having enough pull to draw fuel properly. I suggedt you check the head bolts and use red loctite if they are loose.


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## usmcgrunt

brennanspapa said:


> How do I get to the screen. The diaphram and gasket look to be in good condition. The screen could be the problem. The compression seems good. Thanks for the help.


Under the primer bulb side held on by two screws,is the fuel pump diaphragm and gasket.The carb manual (link posted earlier) shows the screen as item #55 in the main body of the carb.Below is a link that should help with cleaning and reassembly.As Rentahusband suggested,you should probably get a carb kit to do it right.

Have you dumped the fuel out of the tank and checked if the filter is laying in the bottom of the gas tank? I have the same blower which is 5 years old.After one carb rebuild and two cleanings,it still runs pretty good.I didn't mean to sound negative and scare you away from trying to repair it.I was just trying to make you aware of the possible trouble areas with most all two cycle engines.Please come back with further questions and let us know what you find or what you need to know to continue.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/4582/How_to_Clean_a_2_Cycle_Engine_Carburetor.html


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## brennanspapa

Thanks, you weren't scaring me into dumping the blower. I did take the fuel tank out of the machine and clean the inside. I blew out the larger tube and replaced the smaller tube. There was no filter to be found. Only pieces of the original small tube. I noted that the diaphragm and the gasket appear to be in good condition. I will dig into the screen in the carb to see how it looks. I may go for a card rebuild kit when all is said and done. Many thanks for the helpful information. I will continue to deal with the fuel problem until I just can't deal with it any longer.


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## brennanspapa

John Lolli said:


> I have found that sometimes the compression may read ok and still have loose cylinder head bolts as usmcgrunt has suggested - especially on Craftsman and Poulan models. The problem is on the downstroke of the piston not having enough pull to draw fuel properly. I suggedt you check the head bolts and use red loctite if they are loose.


Thanks!


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## brennanspapa

To all the kind men who addressed my problem with the leaf blower. Today I took the carb apart and cleaned the screen. Put it back on the motor and away we went. Started right up and ran perfectly. I just ordered a new fuel filter to help protect the carb from fuel tank debris. I really appreciate all the guidance and advise. Best wishes to all.


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## usmcgrunt

Great job on the repair:thumbsup:I hope you get many years of service from it.


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## geogrubb

Success is a wonderful sound. Since these blowers have a tendency/reputation for scoring the cylinder I suggest mixing the fuel a little rich for more lubrication, I think a little smoke is better than a trashed blower. Have a good one. Geo


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## brennanspapa

geogrubb said:


> Success is a wonderful sound. Since these blowers have a tendency/reputation for scoring the cylinder I suggest mixing the fuel a little rich for more lubrication, I think a little smoke is better than a trashed blower. Have a good one. Geo


Rich mix is already in the game plan. Thanks for your help.


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## Rentahusband

brennanspapa said:


> To all the kind men who addressed my problem with the leaf blower. Today I took the carb apart and cleaned the screen. Put it back on the motor and away we went. Started right up and ran perfectly. I just ordered a new fuel filter to help protect the carb from fuel tank debris. I really appreciate all the guidance and advise. Best wishes to all.


:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## blackpearl

*PPB2000LE screws on intake vibrate loose (same as bv200)*

This is the same set up as the BV200 and others I have found the screws back out after the carb intake removed for other repairs. I know that the exaust bolts have special coating to keel them from vibrating out..
does anyone have a fix for the screws backing out??

I tightened both of them till they would no longer move..

:wave:


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## usmcgrunt

Hello and Welcome to Hobby Talk.I use Loctite 242 (blue in color)thread lock on any screws\bolts that are subject to vibration.It will hold the threads tight,but still allows them to be removed for future repairs.Loctite 272 (red in color)is more permanent and requires heat applied to the fastener for removal.
Hope this helps.


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## blackpearl

Thanks.. I have some of the blue... its not the locktite brand but another major brand..

again, thanks..


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