# New to modeling and looking for info/advice



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Hello all,

I built a model car once when I was a kid and mistakenly painted everything before gluing it. Needless to say the car was a mess and ended up trashing the model. I have not looked at a model for 25 years. 

Fast forward to yesterday when I went to Hobby Lobby with my wife to pick up something she needed and a model Viking ship caught my eye so I grabbed the ship, some glue, an exacto knife and some tweezers.

Mistakes:

1. I did not read the box and found out it is a model for advanced builders once I started sorting peices and reading the directions.

2. The glue I grabbed was for "Clear Parts and window making" so I would glue something, then it would fall apart, then I would glue it again then it would fall apart, I grabbed some super glue then it didn't fall apart but some of my fingers are still stuck together 

3. The tweezers were for "Jewelers" and they don't close tightly enough.

4. I needed clamps but had none so I used paper clamps and tape. This does not work very well.

After all afternoon yesterday, part of the night last night and all day today I got the ship put together. All issues, and laughs, aside it was actually fairly fun. I now need to paint the ship but I do not want to make all the mistakes I made with building.

I am looking for links to sources with advice on painting methods and the most appropriate paints to use.

I found a few tutorials but not exactly for this particular application. I watched youtube videos on painting horses with pastels, Cars with an airbrush and a Wargame model with "washes". 

Can anyone direct me to something a little more practical for painting a plastic ship? Also, any links to information about the right tools and glues to use when building models would be much appreciate. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Is it a plastic kit?

If so you should use paints from the hobby store that can be used for plastic models. Some other paints can melt the plastic.

Use either Tamiya or humrol paints. If you are in the US there are other brands you can use as well. Get yourself a couple of paint brushes from the same store or a similiar hobby store. You'd want at least one medium sized one (1" long, 1/4" or so wide) and a fine one for small details.

Modelling paints use different solvents, which you need to clean the brushes and sometimes dilute the paint. If you are used to doing things like house painting stick with enamal paints like humbrol. The acrylic paints like Tamiya are safer to use but need slightly different technicques to use, they dry faster for example.

Make sure before you start painting the model that it is clean and doesn't have any grease on it so the paint applies better. 

I'm sure others here will give you even more and better advice and if you have any specific questions don't be afraid to ask.

And have fun!


----------



## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Oh and in the future if you are building a plastic kit use an adhesive like Contacta or Testors. One that have needle applicators make it easier to apply the glue just where you need it. You only need super glue for kits with metal or resin parts.


----------



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Thanks for the response and I am in the US. I will check out the hobby store tomorrow to see what they have. The glue I used is made by Testors but it is for a differnt application then what I used it for. My fault for not reading. I assumed since it was hanging right next to the model it was fine to use.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Welcome aboard, Primate! We're a pretty forthcoming bunch of guys around here, so don't be afraid to ask anything you may want to know!


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Hello and welcome! If you are looking for advice you came to the right place.

The thread below will answer many of your questions about tools and materials:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=260480

Also, I recently found a helpful book called "How to Build Dioramas" By Shepard Paine which has a wealth of information about many aspects of the hobby.

http://sheperdpaine.com/books/index.htm

Hope you have fun.

Regards,
MattL


----------



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Thanks again for all the replies so far. To ask a more direct question, where might I find tips on painting plastic wood to give it a realistic look? I have been searching for hours and can not find a thing. On a side note, I have found a ton of info on painting planes and making rust


----------



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Based on advice on this site forums and a few other site this is the list of everything one might need to cover all the basis. I left out airbrush because it is not something I am interested in at this time:
Jewlers files
Dremel
Clamps
Putty/Fller
Sand Paper 60 grit to 1500 
Primer
Micro-Sol
Paint
Pastels
Brushes
Small/Dixi Cup
Pipettes 
Tape 
Sculpting/Dentist tools
Snippers
Clear Coat
Testors Glue clear jar
Testors Model Master glue Metal tip
Cutting/Modeling matt
Light
Magnifying glass
Tool Box


----------



## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

Primate said:


> Thanks again for all the replies so far. To ask a more direct question, where might I find tips on painting plastic wood to give it a realistic look? I have been searching for hours and can not find a thing. On a side note, I have found a ton of info on painting planes and making rust


look up these 2 terms on google and youtube: "drybrushing" and "washes" (a.k.a. "antiquing"). you're bound to find tutorials on those techniques, which are great for bringing out detail like wood grain and the joints between planks.
you might also want to do searches on them here and on the clubhouse forum. http://theclubhouse1.net/phpBB3/index.php

regarding an airbrush, eventually you will want/need one, but theres only so many things a person can learn at one time, and its a whole world of learning in and of itself.

and again, welcome... always glad to welcome a newcomer!


----------



## Chinxy (May 23, 2003)

Primate - Welcome!:thumbsup:
Another thing you might want to check out is your locale IPMS club. I'm sure you should have one in your area. They also have a world of knowledge.

Just remember one thing! In doing models just have fun!:thumbsup:

Chinxy!:dude:


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

For ships you can check out the forum at www.steelnavy.com thats a warship modelling site.


----------



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Just got back from the store and I found out 3 things:
1. There is 1 hobby store in Rapid City SD.
2. Everything is very over priced.
3. I will need to purchase most of the things I need/want from the internet.

Preping and priming start tonight so I might be flooding the board with questions. I apologise in advance.


----------



## Tim Casey (Dec 4, 2004)

Advice? Abandon all hope, ye who enter....


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Don't scare the new guy, Tim...yet...heh heh heh...


----------



## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

For glues on styrene, I prefer the liquid glues such as Tenex or Plastruct glues. The Plastruct glues come with a brush in the bottle. It welds the parts together and can even fill small gaps if brushed in heavily. For final assembly of painted parts I use the CA instant glues. The liquid welding glues don't really work on painted surfaces and also screw up the painted finish. The glue you got initially was for gluing clear plastic parts which doesn't haze the clear surface like the other glues would. However it has no strength, as you found out, and is basically a diluted white glue. Good for wood, not really for plastic. Resin parts will require CA glues.

Personally I use almost strictly acrylic paints, Tamiya, Freestyle, Vallejo, Freak Flex, Testors,etc. The clean up is a breeze but it does dry fast and needs a little more care when using with an airbrush. I used enamels as a kid and they are great but messier to clean up after. I use Krylon and Rustoleum rattle cans from Home Depot also for priming and even on some of the model parts, depending on what I need to do. Finally I usually finish with a Testors dull kote, semi-gloss, or gloss coat as the case may be. That list you built definitely covers about everything to get started and then some. My workshop is my escape from the mundane world, a special place to create all those things I imagined as a kid.

Bob K.


----------



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Well I primed and started painting. I only did one side to get a feel for everything incase it came out bad I didnt waste as much time. I think I went to dark maybe?

Primed it black:


Here are a couple shots of the side so far. Thoughts.. suggestions?:


----------



## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

I think your wood's coming out very well indeed. No suggestions from me on how to improve it.


----------



## Primate (Oct 4, 2010)

Thank you! Now I need to remember what I did so I can do the other side


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

That's looking real good Primate. Excellent job on the wood grain texture!


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Great work so far, Primate! Nicely distressed-looking!


----------

