# First real go at it...Revell 1/72 SR-71 Blackbird



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

So as you guys will certainly notice, it's far from perfect, and I'd eventually like to put out much neater work than this, but for now, it'll do for me. I'm testing the waters with some basics as it stands, and I believe I'll probably come back and do this model again in the future with a better end result. Having said that, my progress so far...

I've been using various brush sizes for whatever I need and Model Master acrylics. I haven't found the need to thin them before application (since they're alread pretty damn watery).



















I'm actually very happy I tried the dry brushing techinque. I was originally going to just go through everything with white, a very fine brush, and some patience of steel...whew, am I glad I didn't try that out  I was grinning the whole way through as I saw all the detail come to life right in front of my eyes haha Now I'll have to figure out how to get that detail with grey-molded models. I imagine it's not quite as easy when everything isn't already black.










As you'll notice, the pilots' flight suits aren't exactly as yellow as they should be. After 2 coats, this was a valuable lesson in why I should go out and buy some primer for my next model, especially if it's molded in black. I also used a color that probably wasn't meant to be used like this - chrome yellow. It looked good on the sample sticker in the store, but experience with practice, I guess. Now I know better. It's also the reason the ejection handles on the seats don't stand out at all. I put a quick coat around them, but I figure it's useless with the chrome yellow. I also just used some olive drab for what should be the green patches on the suits because I didn't want to invest in too many paints for my first model (I still came out of there with 7) and I knew that olive drab would be a good investment considering its ubiquity.



















So that's it for now. Nothing too special. The rest should go by pretty quickly since I already finished the tiny detail work in the cockpit. I was also eager to start putting the thing together, which is another reason I didn't feel like going to the store to get the few proper colors. As I metioned, I expect to eventually come back and do another more proper SR-71 in the future after I hone my skills a little futher.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Very nice!


----------



## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

yeah coming along nicely


----------



## louspal (Sep 13, 2009)

Good job! Looking forward to the completed build.


----------



## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

Nice work - those guys have a lot of buttons to play with.

You must have a steady hand. I used to make 1/48 scale planes and I used to use a tip of a toothpick to apply a dab of paint. Yours look much better though.


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Any one besides me remember the Blackbird kits that Revell put out back in the late 60s, or was it just the late '70s? The only pieces for the cockpit were a couple of figure heads and they could also be built into the YF-12 as well as the SR-71, and they also,included parts for the missle bays and I think for the A-12 as well.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Looking good, Enzo! :thumbsup: 

Do you plan to display the model with the canopies open?


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

I don't think so Ace. I've always been a fan of having the canopies closed just because I enjoy the idea of having the cockpit in a sort of display case. Though, I have been debating what I want to do with this one. 

A) when I used the tweezers to press the windows into place after I laid down the glue, a tiny bit got onto the clear pieces and after a quick wick of a paper towel, well...it's not all that pristine. Still reasonable, but you get what I mean.
B) Considering how tiny the windows are and how distorted the light is that makes it through, it's fairly difficult to make out any detail in the cockpit anyway.

These 2 reasons have me wondering if I want to keep it open or closed. Hell, even when I decide to come back and re-do it perfectly, the tiny windows is hard for me to get over in terms of viewing the cockpit, but I just don't like having open canopies either. I'll decide soon enough.


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

...I guess that's what I should start using Future for, though? Reduces distortion from what I've read, I believe. That's pretty useful against tiny cockpit windows, I'd say.


And @BostonBob, I got those nice results by drybrushing everything. It looks much better on the forward panel than the rear because there are more buttons. You can see the very dry smearing of the white paint on the rear panel on the empty spaces. I use toothpics frequently too, but not for painting. I use them for applying that Testor's modeling cement to small areas or certain areas I know will need a strong hold. I love the Plastruct glue, but I just feel safer with the cement sometimes =P


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

What sort of glue did you use for the clear parts? I use an acrylic cement (basically white glue like Elmers) and it dries clear. 

Future does wonders on clear parts. It makes them look like real glass. 

I think your first kit is coming along nicely. The dry brushing looks good. :thumbsup:


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

I used a clear parts cement by testors. The stuff that comes with the thin applicator and in a sort-of triangular container with a purple label. I'm already not a fan because one of the windows fell out several times after applying glue to the canopy frame and dropping the window into place. I started getting into a rage fit about how the glue wasn't holding its worth. I'm debating if I should just put up with it until the bottle is used up (long time for that) or cut my losses and invest in a better glue.

And I appreciate the kind words. I was very happy by the end result of my first dry brushing attempt.

P.S. I'm still bitter about the terrible coloring of the pilots. It doesn't kill the model for me but it irks me something fierce everytime I look at it.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Enzo,

The Testors Clear parts cement is pretty decent but, like most glues of that type, it's not very tacky. When I need good instant adhesion, I use watch crystal cement - it's pretty tacky and dries clear. 

If the glue oozes from the seam, resist the urge to wipe it off. Let it dry and you can sometimes gently pick it off with the tip on an X acto knife or even the tip of a tooth pick.

You can strip the paint off of the pilots - soak them in a Simple Green / water mix for a bit then strip off the paint with a hard bristled tooth brush. Prime, then and go for Take 2.

You're going to learn tons on this model, Enzo. I learn new things with every kit I build.


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

Well unfortunately it's a little late for the pilots since they're already glued down in the seats and into the fuselage. But definitely for next time, I'll make sure to keep it in mind. I also remembered the wonders of masking when I was painting the front gear well after I had already smeared small bits around the rear gear wells.

And could you link to the type of glue you use? Never heard of watch crystal cement. You just confirmed my experience and I'm really not a fan of using this glue again, especially for future larger and heavier canopy pieces rather than a few tiny windows.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Here's the link, Enzo:

http://www.micromark.com/WATCH-CRYSTAL-CEMENT-TWO-1and3-OZ-TUBES,7468.html

Here's another glue I use for clear parts and some photo etch:

http://store.thewarshop.com/Gator-G...froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=froogle


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

*more of the build process*

I just finished the actual construction last night. So it's all sitting pretty now. One of my favorite moments in any process is finishing the gear assemblies and seeing it stand on its own for the first time. Brings a smile to my face every time. I also need to learn how to make the camera focuse on exactly what I want it to. Having said that, here's some random pictures of the build and the final product without the decals (of which I will post a few pictures up when I finish that stage)...


Rear gears:


















I like dusting some black onto the assemblies because I feel like it gives it the visual of some hydraulic fluid over time. Maybe a little misguided? I don't know, but I like the concept.

Front gear:




















In conclusion:



























I know it's a lot of pictures, but I like to document what I do. (You should see all the pictures I have on my computer from the build that I don't actually post up  ) 

Also if someone could tell me how to place the pictures into small ordered thumbnail attachments, that would be great and a hell of a space saver haha I think I just need to save them into smaller files in order to be able to attach them?


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Not bad at all, Enzo. 

Good to see you try a wash in the gear wells. Are you going to paint the front canopy frame?


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

No, actually...I hadn't even thought about that. I just assumed it was all clear  I'm afraid of touching it anymore than necessary now that it's glued on (and we already covered the glue thing). I'm just going to start applying the decals soon and it call it a day. Probably won't even bother putting together the D-21 drone for this one. Next time around, I will. At least it'll keep something fresh for when I come back around to this one.

Any tips on better washes, also? Never knew that technique was called a wash.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

For a white wheel well, I would just wash in some thinned acrylic black to get a dirty look. Oil washes (using oil based paints) are pretty popular, but I'll let you know how my first one works out soon - I've never tried it. 

Are any of your decals going over the corrugated skin? If so, you will need a decal solvent for them to lay right.


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

Yeah. There are plenty of decals going over ribs on the body as well as those corrugations on the wings. I already got some Micro-Sol at the shop last time I went and supplied myself last minute with everything I would really need to start building (paints, thinner, file, micro-sol). It was pretty cool because that day when I came home I had my package waiting for me at the door of a basic tweezer set I ordered online.

The decals are coming along nicely so far. And the 2 that are set the most on the wing undulations are setting nicely after the solvent. I'll probably have to go back for another quick coat. Once again, learning a lot as you only can through experience. Had a few close calls and near hear-attacks but managed to undo most of them.


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

*All finished!*

Decals came out very nicely overall and I'm pretty happy with the end result. Only really botched one of them, but it's a small one, so not a huge deal. IIRC also the longest red "no step" stripes running along the center of the fuselage took me, I think, a little over 10 minutes each. :freak:

P.S. You can hardly tell in the pictures, but I decided to go along and paint the frame of the windshield, too.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Looks good, Enzo. :thumbsup:

What is your next kit?


----------



## otto (Jan 1, 1970)

Well done!


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

I really haven't decided yet Ace. Could be anything. I'm probably going to choose between the F-14 and F-16, but still unsure. I really like the 18 too. Whichever I choose, I think it's time to get an airbrush soon. I won't be able to do any serious full-body painting without one, which is why I stuck to the SR on my first round. Didn't have to worry about large scale painting.


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Looks good, are you going to dull coat?


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Very cool! I love the instrument panels. This reminds me of when I used to build military planes when I was a kid. I always painted my pilots green with white helmets no matter what aircraft they flew. Why, I don't really know to this day. 

~ The God of still needing to get paid


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Enzo,

An airbrush really opens up the world when it comes to painting, and you can get a decent starter rig for less than a small fortune. 

I think your SR-71 came out great for your first model - well done! :thumbsup:

One thing I do is to try at least one new technique or trick with every kit - and it doesn't have to be anything major. If it is a major paint or finish technique, I'll try it out on scrap plastic first. It keeps things fresh and sometimes a bit challenging...........and it's how I grow as a modeler.

Save all of your spare parts in a scrap box - you never know when you might need a _greeblie_ or two when you get into some scratch work.

I'm looking forward to seeing your next kit in progress.


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

@Irishtrek Not for this one. What you see in those pictures is through and through the finished product this time around. I've been saying that I'll eventually come back to this model and do everything perfectly right, so maybe then I will. Hell, as of now, I'm still trying to learn the differences between all the different types of paint coats (primers, clear coat, dull coat, flat primer, etc.)

At Ace, thank you for the kind words throughout. I'm thinking about investing in a Badger soon since it seems to me to be a popular choice from what I've read, and it's extravagant in price either IIRC. All spare parts are saved as well (I used sprues from my first F-15 build as holders when I was painting).

I'm proud with how this one came out but it's far from perfect. If you look closely in some pictures of the underside, you can see the shine of the dried glue all along the seams, maybe also topside where the afterburners are connected. I really don't know how to remedy/get rid of it without doing a full body painting/coat of some kind which I wasn't intending on doing for this model. If there is a technique which does get rid of it though, by all means, speak freely.


----------



## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

Excellent build Enzo, and as far as not being perfect, none ever are. I've built kits on and off for over forty years now and the only time they arn't fun to build is when I try to become a rivet counter. And listen to Ace, try something new each kit, not all at once. Trying to get a handle on a new building technique is hard enough one at a time.

Again, EXCELLENT work and I look forward to your future builds.

Dave


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

Thank you for the words Dave, much appreciated. I think I will take that advice to heart and try out some flat painting on my next model. I think just to keep it simple and allow myself the learning curve I need with airbrushing and using flat paints I'll stick to the F-117 for this one. Again, just because it's simple. Overall flat black paint job which will give me a good base of practice in both airbrushing and using different colors a little more en masse than I'm used to.


----------



## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

very nice!


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Enzo, if you want to apply derclas to the F-117 then to make it easier why not just use gloss black and then after the decals are in place air brush some clear flat onto your model? after all the less steps you use when building as well as painting a model the better, some thing to think about.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

irishtrek said:


> Enzo, if you want to apply derclas to the F-117 then to make it easier why not just use gloss black and then after the decals are in place air brush some clear flat onto your model? after all the less steps you use when building as well as painting a model the better, some thing to think about.


Good idea. and I will add:

Shoot the gloss black in thin coats. Let it build up. Add too much, too quickly and it will turn into a runny, messy quagmire. Be patient.

I prefer another coat of clear gloss over the decals before I flat coat. It really seals them in, and they look painted on once the flat coat is applied.


----------



## aurora fan (Jan 18, 1999)

Enzo, please let me say this is my favorite build thread I've watched in a long time. Let me explain. I don't know your model building experience but I assume from reading you're learning new ideas and applying them. Your 'Bird looks good but what I like best is all the pictures and your explanations of why you do things certain ways. Its so cool and you should be pleased with your work. Great Job!

I only wish, looking back 40 some years, there was a way I could have recorded my progress in a forum like this and got advice from others. Thats what this place, this HobbyTalk is all about.

I'm as talented as I am, which isn't saying a lot but I learn all the time here. Your Blackbird build is really cool and I just wanted to say... you reminded me why Ive been lurking and loving this forum so long and so much! Keep em coming, dude!


----------



## EnzoF660 (Oct 6, 2010)

Thank you very much Aurora, that's really great to hear something like that. I'll keep up with my pseudo documentation in future builds. As I've said earlier in this thread, you should see all the pictures I have of it that I don't post!

And to Ace and Irish, I gotta say between the 2 of you, I'm learning exponentially faster than I thought I would! Even for having not yet tested out techniques, you guys keep informing me to different ideas and even things I didn't know existed...probably without realizing it and it's awesome. I had no idea there was such a thing as a clear flat coat. I really like the idea of adding a second clear coat just to really pancake those decals on before the final clear flat. I can't wait to try these out and see the end result.

While we're at it, what would be the difference between airbrushing the main coat in flat black then putting the decals on and calling it a day? Or even just doing a clear flat coat over the flat black after the decals are applied? Are 2 flat coats just too much?

*Side note (I'm done after this, I swear. I know I often rant  )
I literally just bought my air brush and compressor today. Got a cheap $75 compressor at Walmart and I managed to get the Badger 175 (I was planning on it after reading some reviews and experiences) at 50% off with a coupon at a local craft store. Talk about a deal and a half - I was ecstatic!!

Again thanks so much for everyone's help and kind words. It makes me wanna go out and get my next kit immediately. I imagine I'll probably go pick one up within the next 2 weeks.


----------



## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Enzo,

Decals need a smooth surface to adhere to, and that's gloss. If you apply them to flat paint, they will "silver" - there will be pockets where the clear film isn't adhered to the finish and they look shiny or "silvered". Silvered decals stand out like a sore thumb.

Most of my finishes are initially flat. I shoot the finish, gloss coat, apply the decals, gloss coat again, then finish with a flat coat. If done properly, the decals looked painted on.

Congrats on the AB and compressor purchase. Does the compressor have a pressure regulator? If not, I have an extra one you can have. PM me if you want it.


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Let me add a little old school advice on decals. If you have the old thick gloppy Monogram, Airfix type decals - use a little dishsoap in your water when soaking them off the paper backing. This helps to remove excess glue that causes this "silvering" condition. I've used it for years without a problem. I seal my decals with decal solvent to get them to lay flat, then a little flat clear coat to ensure that they won't flake off later. On models that can't be simply sealed with clearcoat like non buffable aluminum paint, I've even put a little white Elmers glue in the water to help them adhere a little better. Blot them slowly with a cotton swab, or soft tissue to remove any adhesives where you see the white splotchiness to give them a smooth, uniform finish before using decal solvent on them. If you don't remove it immediately, it might not clean off the paint later. This will ruin aluminum, or silver and gold metallic paints if not washed off right away. 

You might want to wait three days before adding solvents to them, as this can ruin older decals by making them too soft. I've used the solvent right away when using new decals and I've had good results as well. It depends on how old the decal film is. You just have to use your better judement sometimes. I've noticed that when I use decal solvent right away it helps adhesion with newer decals and on old ones too. Just remember to use a small brush, or cotton swab when applying these to keep them from tearing. Apply the decal first, then put decal solvent over it, brush lightly. Let it dry overnight. All the rivets and small details should be evenly covered by the decal film. 

~ The God of still needing to get paid


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Well Enzo, like Ace said decals need a gloss surface to adhere properly other wise you could get not just silvering but a messed up decal in need of replacment.And you are asking before hand which is good thinking on your part.:thumbsup:


----------

