# Squadron Green VS Bondo



## iconixfilms (May 27, 2011)

Hey all. Newbie here... I'm using Aves and loving the results I get from it. Seam work, filling in small holes/cracks etc. My question is that I also use Squadron green for smaller dents and tiny nicks that I can't seem to get sanded away... thus, use a bit of the Green, and mostly that solves the trick.

However, when I use a q-tip and acetone to smooth it out, a la Aves and its corresponding solvent, I tend to remove most or all of the Green from the dent/crack/hole I am trying to fill... What might I be doing wrong to achieve better results?

Also, I have read on here that Green (or White) tends to shrink over time. What should I be using/doing to deal with these tiny nicks in my figure kits that my perfectionist self attempts to thwart? Note: I am working on 1/6 - 1/8 resin kits, and as I am just starting out I've only purchased the lesser expensive kits, $35-50 range, which means, of course, way more and seemingly endless clean-up than if I went with a higher quality kit.

Lastly, there seems to be those that prefer Bondo to Squadron... which I have read ALSO seems to have a bit of shrinkage associated with its use.

I have yet to use Bondo, but if superior results can be achieved than by using Green, I'll head to the store immediately.

What's everyone's thoughts... Should I switch to Bondo? Is it basically the same thing as Green? Should I only be using Aves, even for the tiniest of seems, cracks and other various imperfections? Again, I also have to do some touch up clean-up even on my figures FACES, which means I have to have my technique down, before I attempt that aspect; i.e. highly visible areas, and in some respects the most critical area of the kit itself.

Veterans, thank you kindly for your words of wisdom and insight.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

To me, Bondo seems to have less shrinkage than Squadron...I always used far more Squadron than I meant to, and I don't seem to have that problem with Bondo. Of course, you could PM Carson Dyle for putty tips, he's a great source.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Most tube type putties can be removed/softened/thinned down with acetone, lacquer thinner, MEK, etc. Its just part of their formulation.

I have used the red Bondo glazing putty and its "okay". My issue with it is that it is almost too soft. It just sands right off of, and out of most seams, requiring repeated applications and fairly careful, light, sanding.

Squadron Green putty seems to adhere better and is a bit harder. Again most tube type putties will shrink as they cure. Its not really shrinking over time per se, just the time it takes for the stuff to cure (few hours to a day or two). But if you are using it on hairline gaps and cracks as it is intended to be used on, that is usually not a big issue. You can always apply more than one layer of any filler too, which is often a good idea rather than one big thick gloppy layer. Big gaps and cracks should be filled with epoxy putty rather than model tube putty.

Tamiya white putty is pretty nice. Perhaps it is not as good as their unavailable grey putty but its good, dries fast, seems to bond well, feathers out well with sanding.


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## chevy263 (Oct 6, 2003)

I use 2 part epoxy Shrinking seems to be minimal it sands out nice. and it sticks to anything i ever used it on. One thing i dont like is that its runny and a bit sloppy to use. On the other hand the tube puttys are dry so dry they are a pain to use in my opinion. That and the shrinking that happens with tube putty make 2 part epoxy my choice. Bondo type putty is also an excellent choice! they make a finishing putty that is very smooth with a fine grit for detail stuff i myself wouldnt reccomend regular bondo. Hope this helps a bit and isnt too confusing.


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## LGFugate (Sep 11, 2000)

I've been using red bondo for several years with no problems. I've used Testors white putty and Sqadron green putty as well, and prefer bondo. I get it at WalMart.

Larry


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## tracy.net (Aug 30, 2009)

Old dog here 48 and feeling it! Myself i only use bondo red for small repairs it works great and i love using it! One thing to remember is dont try using it with solvents ,let it dry and it wet sands out (H2O) extra easy and extra smooth with no shrinking. I pefer to use jb weld on the deep stuff and finish the top layer with the bondo red to slick it out. It just works great for me. Yep i get them both at Wally World but you can pick em up most anywhere.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

iconixfilms said:


> However, when I use a q-tip and acetone to smooth it out, a la Aves and its corresponding solvent, I tend to remove most or all of the Green from the dent/crack/hole I am trying to fill... What might I be doing wrong to achieve better results?


I'm obviously not familiar with your technique but, if you're happy using Squadron Green, rather than changing brands you might simply try squeezing most of the acetone out of the Q-Tip before applying it to the putty, and using lighter pressure to smooth out the Green.

I had similar problems when I first learned of the "Q-Tip and acetone" trick, and soon determined too much acetone will either dilute the putty to an unusable mess or remove it completely. BTW, just to be clear, I use Bondo and have never tried Squadron Green, but the principle should still apply.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I ususlly stick with Squadron white but on occassion I will used red autobody glazing compound. This has great adhesion with little or no shrinkage and sands out pretty easily. Just be sure you apply it in thin coats and dont let the color alarm you since you will be priming the piece anyway.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I use the red Bondo for most of my filling needs. I do admit if the area you are filling is deep it will sink into it and frequently leaves a depression at that location but another dabbing will usually take care of it. I don't really think it is shrinkage as much as it is sinking. I like that it sands off without too much effort. If I need to do deep filling I will usually use Aves or epoxy putty from the hardware store. The epoxy putty also is quite strong when it cures. I have some of the Squadron but am not too fond of it as I seem to get better adhesion with the Bondo and I like the more fluid consistency of the Bondo. But as with painting and everything else, whatever works best for you is what you should use.

Bob K.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Like anything else no one filler works for everything. I use the tube type putties (Squadron, Tamiya, Mr. Putty, Humbrol) along with the liquid brush on putties (Mr. Dissolved Putty, Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer), some hardware store stuff (Bondo Red Glazing Putty) and various epoxy putties (Procrete, Tamiya, Milliput, etc.) and even CA glue now and then.

A nice useful hardware store epoxy puty is PC12. It comes in two parts, packaged in what look like 35mm film tubes, You mix a bit of each part with a tooth pick and apply it. The consistencey is about like marshmellow paste, so it is not hard to use at all. It is very similar to Tamiya's Polyester Putty but is easier to use (no weird mixing ratios).


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

PC12? Never heard of it. Who makes it?


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## SpaceCrawler (Mar 22, 2010)

I've never used anything but Squadron type putty, but I need something more substantial and that doesn't shrink so much. I'm guessing maybe some type of epoxy putty might work from the descriptions I've read of it. I need to basically sculpt some pieces or do lots of filling in large areas. Would the epoxy putty be best for that? And what kind? Best prices?

Sean


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

SpaceCrawler said:


> I've never used anything but Squadron type putty, but I need something more substantial and that doesn't shrink so much. I'm guessing maybe some type of epoxy putty might work from the descriptions I've read of it. I need to basically sculpt some pieces or do lots of filling in large areas. Would the epoxy putty be best for that? And what kind? Best prices?
> 
> Sean


There are a number of brands but I think all would work the same. They come in the tubes as DJ said and typically the two parts are in a cylindrical form with one around the circumference and the other down the center. Just cut off what you want and roll it around in your hands until it is mixed. It is very strong and doesn't shrink. I've used 3 or 4 different brands and all worked fine. It hardens in a couple of hours. I've used it for other repairs too and once reattached a Nissan side view mirror with it and it worked. Here is a link for an idea of what it is:

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/tools-...ucts/pc-plumbing-4-oz-putty-epoxy-115467.html

Bob K.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I have also heard of using Tenax, Plastruct or other similar plastic welding compounds to melt down plastic sprue into a past and applying it to the seam like putty. I have tried this and to an extent it works but it can be really messy when trying to melt the sprue plus because these glues evaporate quickly, you have to work fast. It's not really worth all the trouble plus it is a waste of Tenax.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

PC stuff is made by... drumroll... PC Products

http://www.pcepoxy.com/index.php


Actually the stuff I had is PC11. All of the PC stuff has PC in the name... PC11, PC Marine, PC Wood.

You can dissolve plastic sprue in any liquid cement (like Testors). I learned this tip in the 70s for working with Historex plastic figures and the old matt/flat white Historex plastic dissolved very well. Most new plastics just dont seem to work quite the same and Historex themselves dont use the same plastic now as they did back then.

Problems with the dissolved sprue in glue method include a slow dry time and hot solvents. The glop can melt the model before it sets up, and it takes days or weeks to fully harden. As a kid if you ever filled up a model part with too much tube glue and a few days later found it all melted and misshapen, thats what can happen with this stuff.


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I've used the Squadron green, and didn't care for it. It will soften and melt thin styrene. I did like the Squadron white, which was easier to sand. Both exhibited shrinkage and cracking, even when spread fairly thinly. And I could never get the cap back on so the tube dried out prematurely....

I prefer Bondo glazing putty to the Squadron stuff. It's dirt cheap comparitively, and easy to sand. But as others have mentioned, it can be TOO easy to sand. And it's grainy.

I am a convert to Tamiya putty. I like their white and grey basic putties. They can be had from Hong Kong, at least until a couple months ago. Seems to be the same stuff but in different colors. The white is nice for figures and other stuff that will be painted in lighter colors. It dries HARD, with essentially no shrinkage. And it is creamy smooth.

Actually I just checked Lucky Model, and grey is not in stock at the moment, but white is....


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