# Toro Personal Pace



## Orv (Oct 10, 2012)

Hi guys! saw some good threads using the search here, but nothing quite to solve my problem.

A couple months ago, my Toro 20332 found a metal spike on a railroad tie in my back yard. It instantly killed my mower, and i was never able to get it to start. The blade would come loose trying to start it. After some research, i found out i may have sheared off the pin to the blade assembly hub underneath.

Sure did! And thankfully a good friend had one of these mowers sitting in his garage for parts. I replaced the blade assembly, and mower backfired and spurted a bunch, never starting.

After doing some reading, i found the cylinder may be full of oil and gas. I pulled the plug and turned over the engine a very great amount, pulled the carb apart and cleaned it, inspected 4 week old air filter.

Now the mower starts, but after several knocking noises and 5-6 pulls. Once its running, it sounds brand new. I proceeded to mow the yard with it, and it did fine without regards to the 5-6 pulls it takes to start it. The knocking noise also scares me. Anyone have a clue what this might be? The crankshaft appears to be true, but i dont have a better way to test it other than a visual inspection.

Sorry for the long post


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You need to check the flywheel key, it could be sheared as well and this will advance the ignition timing enough that if it starts and runs, you could get a knocking sound. If the blade is not torqued tight enough, this could also cause a noise.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

Agree with the flywheel key. A sudden stop like that can shear the key. Even if it is partially sheared, it will cause issues.


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## justin3 (Apr 10, 2007)

If I remember right, the 20332 has a Tecumseh engine on it. Make sure the crankshaft is 

not bent, put the mower on its side, disconnect the spark plug and have a friend pull 

the mower over. Watch the blade bolt and make sure it rotates straight and not in an 

elliptical pattern. If the shaft is bent, I wouldn't go any farther.

If all else checks good, check the flywheel key and make sure the blade adapter your friend gave you fits nice and tight on the shaft.. they wear out.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

justin3 said:


> make sure the blade adapter your friend gave you fits nice and tight on the shaft.. they wear out.


Blade adapters are not subject to wear, they turn with the blade and crankshaft. They are however subject to damage from an improperly torqued blade, or of course hitting something solid with the blade!


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## justin3 (Apr 10, 2007)

30yearTech said:


> Blade adapters are not subject to wear, they turn with the blade and crankshaft. They are however subject to damage from an improperly torqued blade, or of course hitting something solid with the blade!


Yeah I have seen a lot of Toro's at work with the internal keys damaged from hitting something. You would not know unless you inspected the inner part. That can cause the knock.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

justin3 said:


> Yeah I have seen a lot of Toro's at work with the internal keys damaged from hitting something. You would not know unless you inspected the inner part. That can cause the knock.


Must be some cheap adapters. All of the adapters I have seen are steel with the key machined as part of the adapter. Must hit something pretty solid for the crank to damage the key in the adapter.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Rentahusband said:


> Must be some cheap adapters. All of the adapters I have seen are steel with the key machined as part of the adapter. Must hit something pretty solid for the crank to damage the key in the adapter.


It depends on the specific model as to the type of adapter used. Many of these units have a steel adapter where the key just an indention pressed into the housing to line up with the key way on the crankshaft. These can be damaged easily by striking an object or running with a loose blade.


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