# 18 hp twin cylinder briggs & Stratton



## dugrow

I have an 18 hp twin cylinder briggs & Stratton, Sears / Wards not sure, can't find a model number. The hood has Siginature 2000 Elite but I'm not sure that hood goes with lawn tractor. I use it to pull a dump trailer and it runs good as long as you keep it under 1/2 throttle if I go over it dies. I bought a craftsman front end scoop for it and it now dies at the slightest incline like it is starving for gas. Tank full, fresh gas seems like the load is killing it. It will start right up with full choke. Is there a gov. on his engine??


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## bugman

yeah there is a governor, though it sounds like the carb isn't set properly


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## mikemerritt

I assume this is a horizontally opposed twin. If it is there is a 9/16 nut on the side of the carb. Remove it and take out the jet using an allen. Clean it and the holes that are under the jet. This is a huge trouble spot for this engine. About the only way to keep this from happening to this engine is to use an in line fuel filter. If this doesn't help or you have the Vanguard v-twin let us know.

Mike


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## dugrow

The engine model number is 422700 type 0145 it has a 5/8 cap on the side of the carb. I removed it and gas drained from bowl so i assumed it was a drain plug. I started it up and it ran fine for about ten minutes and then started with the same problem. I had ran it about the same amount of time a couple days ago when it first started with this problem. I did find someone put a larger hose over the gas line (for protection from heat I guess) and the governor linkage was hung up in that. The governor started working after that. It will start back up with full chock and run about 45 seconds. I have never ran over a five minutes since i got this tractor, just moving trailer from front to back yard.


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## bugman

well it does sounds like a gas delivery problem, so a rebuild sounds in order, if it was set out a long time with regular non treated gas, or its old. or it sucked something up in there.


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## dugrow

took off the carb and had it rebuilt they put in a kit and a float all for 35.00 RUNS GREAT


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## bugman

35 bucks, sounds reasonable. though it would have been alot......... cheaper to do yourself.


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## valentine

mikemerritt said:


> I assume this is a horizontally opposed twin. If it is there is a 9/16 nut on the side of the carb. Remove it and take out the jet using an allen. Clean it and the holes that are under the jet. This is a huge trouble spot for this engine. About the only way to keep this from happening to this engine is to use an in line fuel filter. If this doesn't help or you have the Vanguard v-twin let us know.
> 
> Mike



Great advice Mike!

My briggs 18 h.p. twin was doing the same thing. I took your advice today and after a few minutes of cleaning, it's running like a champ :thumbsup: 

The small engine guy down the road told me that I'd have to buy a carb.....130.00
I was going to buy one next week. You made my day!!!!

Thanks again,
Nick


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## bugman

valentine said:


> Great advice Mike!
> 
> My briggs 18 h.p. twin was doing the same thing. I took your advice today and after a few minutes of cleaning, it's running like a champ :thumbsup:
> 
> The small engine guy down the road told me that I'd have to buy a carb.....130.00
> I was going to buy one next week. You made my day!!!!
> 
> Thanks again,
> Nick


 thats how some of em get people.... they think you won't know anything.


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## valentine

bugman said:


> thats how some of em get people.... they think you won't know anything.



Yea, Luckily I came across this thread.

I took the deck off yesterday, did some sanding and painted it up. It has two dime size rust holes by the discharge shute, but other than that, it's in good shape.

Now I've got to put it all back together and try to sell it! I'm sure someone will need it....

Later,
Nick


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## keith1926

I am trying to fine a manual for Model 42A707 Type 1550-01 Code 9510235A briggs/stratton twin cylinder 18HP . It is a lawmower I bought used. I have had so many problems with keeping it running.


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## avery3

thanks for this thread..I hve this same type of engine and following these simple instructions i fix my problem in min... thanks again.


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## NITROJC

mikemerritt said:


> I assume this is a horizontally opposed twin. If it is there is a 9/16 nut on the side of the carb. Remove it and take out the jet using an allen. Clean it and the holes that are under the jet. This is a huge trouble spot for this engine. About the only way to keep this from happening to this engine is to use an in line fuel filter. If this doesn't help or you have the Vanguard v-twin let us know.
> 
> Mike


 HELLO THERE MIKE, I KNOW THIS IS AN OLD THREAD, BUT YOU MAY HAVE THE SOLUTION TO MY PROBLEM. MY YARD MACHINE TRACTOR IS A 18.5 HP. BRIGGS MODEL 42A707 / 1238 / MADE IN 1997. THE ENGINE WILL ONLY RUN A FEW SECONDS ON GAS PRIMES THROUGH THE CARB INLET. I REMOVED THE 9/16 NUT ON THE SIDE OF THE CARB, AND HAD MY WIFE CRANK THE ENGINE; GAS TRICKLED OUT INDICATING TO ME THE FUEL PUMP IS OK. I TRIED SHOOTING GUMOUT CARB CLEANER W/ TUBE INTO THE MAIN JET A COUPLE OF TIMES, NOTING THAT THE FUEL DRAINED FROM THE BASE OF CARB. YOU MENTION USING AN ALLEN WRENCH TO REMOVE THE JET, I CAN'T EVEN SEE THE JET ! WHAT SIZE ALLEN ? " HELP ! " 
PLEASE ADVISE, THANK-YOU, JIM


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## Restrorob

Jim,

I can't tell you which size allen wrench fits, I just know which in my set does. 
(Tools locked up at shop)

If you can't look through the hole with a flash light and see the jet you may need to go ahead and pull the top off. Then you can clean the bowl area better and see the side of the jet from the top once cleaned to assure proper alignment of the allen wrench. 

Should you do this and need a new top gasket, The gasket is part #273186S.....

Here is a break-down should you need it;


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## NITROJC

Restrorob said:


> Jim,
> 
> I can't tell you which size allen wrench fits, I just know which in my set does.
> (Tools locked up at shop)
> 
> If you can't look through the hole with a flash light and see the jet you may need to go ahead and pull the top off. Then you can clean the bowl area better and see the side of the jet from the top once cleaned to assure proper alignment of the allen wrench.
> 
> Should you do this and need a new top gasket, The gasket is part #273186S.....
> 
> Here is a break-down should you need it;


 HI RESTROROB, WOULD YOU HAPPEN TO KNOW THE " ORIFICE " SIZE OF THE MAIN JET 117B, I THOUGHT I MAY BE ABLE TO CLEAN IT WITH A WIRE FEELER GAUGE. ALSO, IN THE PAST I HAVE USE 100% AMMONIA, LETTING IT SIT IN THE FUEL BOWL COVERING THE MAIN JET TO DISOLVE THE GUM AND VARNISH DEPOSITS. HOWEVER, WITH THAT CARB [ BRIGGS 11 HP. ] I REMOVED THE BOWL, AND PROPPED UP A LITTLE JAR WITH THE AMMONIA UNDERNEATH IT, LETTING IT SOAK FOR A DAY OR SO. I DON'T KNOW WHAT EFFECT AMMONIA HAS ON GASKET OR RUBBER PARTS; IF AFTER CLEANING THE JET AND SURROUNDING AREA ...THE ENGINE STILL FAILS TO RUN, WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP ? WHAT DO YOU THINK ? TO ALL OF YOU, PLEASE ADVISE, WITH YOUR IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS. THANK-YOU, JIM


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## Restrorob

Jim,

I wasn't going to go there but soon as I seen you mention Gumout brand I didn't think you were going to get anywhere. 

Spray a little on your index finger then rub it with your thumb, It feels slick and doesn't evaporate very quickly. This is because Gumout has a mineral spirits base, Mineral spirits will not dissolve fuel varnish very well at all.

Go to your local auto parts store and get another brand that when sprayed on your finger doesn't feel slick and evaporates quickly, This will be best for cutting /dissolving fuel varnish. Here at home I use SuperTech brand from Walmart, It works very well.


Now, The main jet orface size is not listed anywhere that I know of. I use a cutting torch tip cleaner if I need to manually open a jet that cleaner will not. Just start small then go to the next size only pushing it through once or twice, I have never taken extra material out of one using the method.

With the top off the carb you see the center area where the butterfly opening is, On this top edge you see two holes. With the fuel pump facing you the right hole is the high speed circuit port, The one on the left is the low (idle) speed circuit port. Remove the low speed adjuster located below the fuel pump, Spray this BETTER quality carb cleaner with the straw through both these ports from both directions (through adjuster hole and main jet). Be careful when spraying, This stuff hurts like hell when gotten in the eyes.



> IF AFTER CLEANING THE JET AND SURROUNDING AREA ...THE ENGINE STILL FAILS TO RUN, WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP ?


Since I'm a better wrench spinner than typer we will cross that bridge if the need arises, If you follow the steps above I'm pretty confident your issue will be solved.

Good Luck


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## NITROJC

Restrorob said:


> Jim,
> 
> I wasn't going to go there but soon as I seen you mention Gumout brand I didn't think you were going to get anywhere.
> 
> Spray a little on your index finger then rub it with your thumb, It feels slick and doesn't evaporate very quickly. This is because Gumout has a mineral spirits base, Mineral spirits will not dissolve fuel varnish very well at all.
> 
> Go to your local auto parts store and get another brand that when sprayed on your finger doesn't feel slick and evaporates quickly, This will be best for cutting /dissolving fuel varnish. Here at home I use SuperTech brand from Walmart, It works very well.
> 
> 
> Now, The main jet orface size is not listed anywhere that I know of. I use a cutting torch tip cleaner if I need to manually open a jet that cleaner will not. Just start small then go to the next size only pushing it through once or twice, I have never taken extra material out of one using the method.
> 
> With the top off the carb you see the center area where the butterfly opening is, On this top edge you see two holes. With the fuel pump facing you the right hole is the high speed circuit port, The one on the left is the low (idle) speed circuit port. Remove the low speed adjuster located below the fuel pump, Spray this BETTER quality carb cleaner with the straw through both these ports from both directions (through adjuster hole and main jet). Be careful when spraying, This stuff hurts like hell when gotten in the eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm a better wrench spinner than typer we will cross that bridge if the need arises, If you follow the steps above I'm pretty confident your issue will be solved.
> 
> Good Luck


 HI, LOOKING AT THE EXPLODED CARB VIEW, I TRIED TO LOCATE THE LOW SPEED IDLE CIRCUIT, TO SEE WHAT IS WHAT; ALL I COULD FIND IS THE MAIN JET SYSTEM. WHAT DO YOU THINK OF SOAKING THE CARB WITH AMMONIA IN THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE BOWL, WOULD THIS RUIN RUBBER PARTS [O-RINGS,ETC] OR GASKETS ? ISN'T IT STRANGE THAT JUST ALL OF A SUDDEN BOTH HIGH AND LOW CIRCUITS WOULD PLUG UP AT THE SAME TIME ? THE ENGINE HAS NEVER GIVEN ME ANY PROBLEM ... THEN OUT OF NO-WHERE WON'T START OR RUN. THE IGNITION IS OK., BECAUSE IT WILL RUN A FEW SECONDS ON GAS PRIMES THROUGH THE CARB. IT'S HARD TO BELIEVE, WITH THE FUEL PUMP PRESSURE IT HAS, THAT ABSOLUTELY NO FUEL IS REACHING THE CYLINDERS THROUGH THE CARB, NOT EVEN A SPUTTER !! YOU SAID, YOU PERFER WRENCHING TO TYPING, SO A SHORT REPLY WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS SO MUCH, JIM


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## Restrorob

What I meant by the typing thing is it's best to take a repair a step at a time because in most cases the first step solves the problem and all the extra "what if" typing is done for nothing. 

I'm not sure about the ammonia soak, I have never heard of or had the need to try this. As stated I have good results from a quality carb & choke spray cleaner. 
There is no rubber or gaskets inside the bowl area so if you'd rather try ammonia inside the bowl (not submerging the whole carb body) go ahead, But doing this will not clean the upper passages from the main jet to the top of the carb base or the low speed circuit.

It's my belief that a piece of trash got sucked into the main jet shutting off fuel flow, The low speed circuit also feeds off the high speed circuit. Cleaning the low speed circuit as well while the carb is apart will assure no trash got into it at the time the high speed clogged. Also by doing this saves having to tear it apart a second time to clean the low speed circuit. 

Maybe the below pic will explain better;


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## NITROJC

Restrorob said:


> What I meant by the typing thing is it's best to take a repair a step at a time because in most cases the first step solves the problem and all the extra "what if" typing is done for nothing.
> 
> I'm not sure about the ammonia soak, I have never heard of or had the need to try this. As stated I have good results from a quality carb & choke spray cleaner.
> There is no rubber or gaskets inside the bowl area so if you'd rather try ammonia inside the bowl (not submerging the whole carb body) go ahead, But doing this will not clean the upper passages from the main jet to the top of the carb base or the low speed circuit.
> 
> It's my belief that a piece of trash got sucked into the main jet shutting off fuel flow, The low speed circuit also feeds off the high speed circuit. Cleaning the low speed circuit as well while the carb is apart will assure no trash got into it at the time the high speed clogged. Also by doing this saves having to tear it apart a second time to clean the low speed circuit.
> 
> Maybe the below pic will explain better;


 THANKS RESTROROB, 
YOUR LAST PIC, AND EXPLANATION WAS EXTREMELY HELP FULL. NOW I CAN PROCEDE WITH CONFIDENCE, KNOWING WHERE EVERYTHING IS. I AM JUST SO USE TO PROBLEM SOLVING FLOW CHARTS THAT I LIKE TO SEE AHEAD WHAT'S NEXT. I THINK FIRST OFF, I WILL TRY CLEANING THE MAIN JET WITH THE WIRE, AND GO FROM THERE INTO THE REMOVAL OF MAIN JET IF NECESSARY, AND SO ON.... 

TAKE CARE, AND THANKS AGAIN, JIM
P.S. I WILL POST THE RESULTS.



TODAY AT 4:40 PM.

TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: WELL I DID NOT HAVE TO CLEAN THE MAIN JET AFTER ALL, BY SHOOTING GUMOUT CARB CLEANER THROUGH THE JET IT DEFINITELY IS COMMING OUT OF THE MAIN NOZZLE. HOWEVER, THE ENGINE STILL WON'T START, OR RUN, NOT EVEN A SPUTTER; ONLY WITH GAS PRIMES THROUGH THE CARB DOES IT RUN FOR A FEW SECONDS !!!
IN ALL OF MY 40 YEARS, FROM GO-CARTS, MINI-BIKES, MOTOR BIKES, AND ENGINE DYNO AT FORDS, I HAVE NEVER EXPERIENCED AN INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE THAT WOULD NOT RUN WITH THE PROPER AIR/FUEL RATIO, TIMMED SPARK, AND GOOD COMPRESSION ALL PRESENT AT THE SAME TIME. WHAT IN HELL IS GOING ON ? I AM TOTALLY BAFFLED, AND FRUSTRATED. I DESPERATELY NEED SOME HELP HERE. ALL THOUGHTS, AND IDEAS ARE WELCOME.
I SINCERELY THANK-ALL, FOR YOUR HELP.


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## glenjudy

We've exhausted all the baby steps, I would suggest the following:
1) set aside the Gumout and ammonia and any cleaning wires, I've only found Gumout good for cleaning gum/varnish out of gas tanks, and ammonia good for cleaning windows.
2) This is a simple carb and easy to remove, particularly if you have the hood removed, 2 7/16 bolts and twist to unhook from throttle linkage, and completely dis-assemble, .
3) soak in carb bath for a couple of hours, blow out with carb spray cleaner and compressed air. shine up needle seat with Qtip soaked in carb spray cleaner.
4) buy the kit, it's inexpensive, for both the carb and 3 screw pump, it is 10 yrs old and pump diaphragms will be a little stiff
5) With your experience it will be easy to re-assemble, turn idle adust screw out 1 1/2 turns.
Good luck,
thanks,


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## NITROJC

Hello There Fella, Why Is It Went The Best Experts Get Stumped, They Cop-out With The " Cure All " Solution. Any Body With Any Expertise Would Be Able To Pin-point This Problem. With My Background In Engine Dyno, First Question To You Is " How Do You Determine Whether The Fuel Pump Has Sufficient Pressure, What Psi. Is Acceptable ? " Secondly, If That Checks Out Ok. And Fuel Is Definitely Reaching The Main Nozzle, Why Won't The Engine Run ? I Don't Believe Most People In These " Forums " Are Looking For The " Cure-all " Solutions ! Thanks, Jim 

P.s. Glen, I Have Another Tractor I Bought New In 1980, With An 11 Hp. Briggs Engine That I Still Use Today. The Only Problem I Have Had Over The Years Was .... A Dirty Main Fuel Jet That I Soaked In Ammonia, Solving The Problem !


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## 30yearTech

NITROJC said:


> Hello There Fella, Why Is It Went The Best Experts Get Stumped, They Cop-out With The " Cure All " Solution. Any Body With Any Expertise Would Be Able To Pin-point This Problem. With My Background In Engine Dyno, First Question To You Is " How Do You Determine Whether The Fuel Pump Has Sufficient Pressure, What Psi. Is Acceptable ? " Secondly, If That Checks Out Ok. And Fuel Is Definitely Reaching The Main Nozzle, Why Won't The Engine Run ? I Don't Believe Most People In These " Forums " Are Looking For The " Cure-all " Solutions ! Thanks, Jim
> 
> P.s. Glen, I Have Another Tractor I Bought New In 1980, With An 11 Hp. Briggs Engine That I Still Use Today. The Only Problem I Have Had Over The Years Was .... A Dirty Main Fuel Jet That I Soaked In Ammonia, Solving The Problem !


Well Jim, I don't really think it's a "cop-out" to suggest the most viable way to solve a problem that there is no certainty about! Remember we are all relying on your expertise to help us guide you to a solution. By the way while I personally use the Wal-Mart brand carburetor cleaner spray, I have had good results with Gumout brand as well and I don't really think this has any bearing on your issue.

I don't consider myself stumped until I lay my hands on it and can't get it working!

There are still way to many questions to ask before anyone could pinpoint an exact cause of your problem. The most common reason for a problem such as the one you describe, is a restricted high speed jet. There certainly could be other reasons as well.

When you determined the jet was open, did you take the top half of the carburetor off?

Is the gasket between the two halves good and passages in top half clear?

Is fuel passing through the nozzle and into the carburetor throat?

Does the engine have sufficient compression to draw fuel from the carburetor into the intake?

Is it possible you may have an air leak in the intake manifold, or where the manifold mounts to the cylinder heads?

There are variables that can affect the operation of your carburetor, and the problem may not be carburetor related at all.


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## NITROJC

WITH ALL DUE RESPECT "GLEN," YOU DEFINITELY NEED TO GO BACK AND REVIEW ALL PAST POSTS, ALL EXCEPT TWO OF YOUR QUESTIONS ARE ADDRESSED IN THE OTHER "FORUM." POSSIBLY AN AIR LEAK IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, OR WHERE IT MOUNTS TO THE HEAD, COULD BE A PROBLEM, AS WELL AS POOR COMPRESSION, BUT THE ENGINE DOES RUN ON GAS PRIMES THROUGH THE CARB, ELIMINATING THIS. RATHER THAN REPEAT MYSELF, CHECK THE OTHER FORUM GlenM TO SEE MY REPLY TO CHEESE. THANKS, JIM


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## 30yearTech

NITROJC said:


> WITH ALL DUE RESPECT "GLEN," YOU DEFINITELY NEED TO GO BACK AND REVIEW ALL PAST POSTS, ALL EXCEPT TWO OF YOUR QUESTIONS ARE ADDRESSED IN THE OTHER "FORUM." POSSIBLY AN AIR LEAK IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, OR WHERE IT MOUNTS TO THE HEAD, COULD BE A PROBLEM, AS WELL AS POOR COMPRESSION, BUT THE ENGINE DOES RUN ON GAS PRIMES THROUGH THE CARB, ELIMINATING THIS. RATHER THAN REPEAT MYSELF, CHECK THE OTHER FORUM GlenM TO SEE MY REPLY TO CHEESE. THANKS, JIM


FIRST OFF, MY NAME IS NOT GLENN IT'S "KEN"
SECOND THIS IS NOT THE OTHER FORUM THIS IS "HOBBY TALK" HOW IN THE WORLD IS ANYBODY GONNA KNOW WHAT IN THE WORLD YOU ALREADY DID TO YOUR ENGINE SINCE YOU CAME IN HERE AND HIJACKED THIS THREAD. ARE WE TO ASSUME YOU DID EVERYTHING TO YOUR ENGINE THAT THE ORIGINAL POSTER TRIED? AND WHATEVER ELSE IS POSTED ON THAT "OTHER FORUM"

HOW IN WORLD COULD ANYONE WITH ANY COMPREHENSION OF HOW AN ENGINE OPERATES,THINK THAT STARTING AN ENGINE OFF OF A PRIME ELIMINATES AN AIR LEAK IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR ADDRESS INSUFFICIENT COMPRESSION? YOU CAN START AN ENGINE WITHOUT A CARBURETOR OR INTAKE MANIFOLD, WITH A PRIME!

INSTEAD OF BASHING ALL THE SUGGESTIONS THAT THE FINE POSTERS OF THIS FORUM HAVE SUPPLIED, WHY DON'T YOU START YOUR OWN THREAD.... EXPLAIN YOUR "PROBLEM" AND WHAT YOU HAVE DONE SO FAR TO CORRECT IT.... 

OTHERWISE MAYBE YOU SHOULD STICK TO THAT "OTHER FORUM" AS THEY SEEM TO HAVE WAY MORE INFO THEN YOU LEFT HERE FOR US.


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## NITROJC

30yearTech said:


> FIRST OFF, MY NAME IS NOT GLENN IT'S "KEN"
> SECOND THIS IS NOT THE OTHER FORUM THIS IS "HOBBY TALK" HOW IN THE WORLD IS ANYBODY GONNA KNOW WHAT IN THE WORLD YOU ALREADY DID TO YOUR ENGINE SINCE YOU CAME IN HERE AND HIJACKED THIS THREAD. ARE WE TO ASSUME YOU DID EVERYTHING TO YOUR ENGINE THAT THE ORIGINAL POSTER TRIED? AND WHATEVER ELSE IS POSTED ON THAT "OTHER FORUM"
> 
> HOW IN WORLD COULD ANYONE WITH ANY COMPREHENSION OF HOW AN ENGINE OPERATES,THINK THAT STARTING AN ENGINE OFF OF A PRIME ELIMINATES AN AIR LEAK IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR ADDRESS INSUFFICIENT COMPRESSION? YOU CAN START AN ENGINE WITHOUT A CARBURETOR OR INTAKE MANIFOLD, WITH A PRIME!
> 
> INSTEAD OF BASHING ALL THE SUGGESTIONS THAT THE FINE POSTERS OF THIS FORUM HAVE SUPPLIED, WHY DON'T YOU START YOUR OWN THREAD.... EXPLAIN YOUR "PROBLEM" AND WHAT YOU HAVE DONE SO FAR TO CORRECT IT....
> 
> OTHERWISE MAYBE YOU SHOULD STICK TO THAT "OTHER FORUM" AS THEY SEEM TO HAVE WAY MORE INFO THEN YOU LEFT HERE FOR US.




Ken, I am truly sorry for the over site........ I mistook you for GlenM ,or Glenjudy on this forum. he among others have been tring to take me step by step through the carb in hopes to finding the problem. in order to come up to speed you would have to read about a dozen past posts on the ........" Do it yourself forum," starting with the first post. The confusion began with glen posting " identical solutions " on both forums. Thanks, Jim


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## Restrorob

30yearTech said:


> WHY DON'T YOU START YOUR OWN THREAD.... EXPLAIN YOUR "PROBLEM" AND WHAT YOU HAVE DONE SO FAR TO CORRECT IT....



Jim, 

Ken has a good point, I surely don't want/need to get bashed for trying to help.


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## timbo

if cleaning as suggested dont help buy a new or find another one ? makes sense to me


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## NITROJC

*Carb Problem Resolved*

Thanks Be To "RESTROROB," With His Focus On Cleaning The Passages/ports I Have Finally Proceeded Through This Problem, and Have Gotten The Engine Running.
This Goes To Show There Is More Than One Way Tooooo "Skin A Cat." 
As For Those Who Suggested Multi-replacement Kits, You Need To Do Your "Homework" More Throughly Next Time !!! 

Technology Vs. Hands On Sincerely, Jim.


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## 30yearTech

*Glad you got it going, but....*



NITROJC said:


> Thanks Be To "RESTROROB," With His Focus On Cleaning The Passages/ports I Have Finally Proceeded Through This Problem, and Have Gotten The Engine Running.
> This Goes To Show There Is More Than One Way Tooooo "Skin A Cat."
> As For Those Who Suggested Multi-replacement Kits, You Need To Do Your "Homework" More Throughly Next Time !!!
> 
> Technology Vs. Hands On Sincerely, Jim.


Glad that you finally took someones advise and actually cleaned your carburetor as many had suggested. 

No one needs to do any "Home Work" you NEVER provided sufficient information for most anyone on this forum to form much of an opinion as to what your issue was in the first place, you did not respond to the questions about what you had already tried to do to fix your issue. It's pretty much guess work without any viable information to base any suggestions on. 

You seem to think that since you used to dyno engines, that this qualifies you to criticize and ridicule peoples responses. You sir need to do some homework about how to treat people who were kind enough to try and offer you some assistance.

I see that you even got "kicked" off the other forum for your responses, if you already know the answer to a question, then why do you ask it?


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## NITROJC

*Homework Is A Must*

To The "30 Year Tech," Had You Read Posting #13, I Would Not Be Responding To This, As Time Is Money. However, You Drew Your Conclusions Based On Half The Facts. You Were The "only" One With This Problem, As The Others Were Able To Comprehend The Problem. 
As For The Engine "dyno," I Was Making A Point That Sometimes Technical Specs. Are Helpful In Solving The Problem !
Now, The Forum That I Was "booted" Off Of......... Did You Read Everything [do Your Homework], Or Should I Conclude As Above .... That You Only Got Half-the-facts ??? Sincerely, Jim
[ Your Instructor ]


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## 30yearTech

NITROJC said:


> To The "30 Year Tech," Had You Read Posting #13, I Would Not Be Responding To This, As Time Is Money. However, You Drew Your Conclusions Based On Half The Facts. You Were The "only" One With This Problem, As The Others Were Able To Comprehend The Problem.
> As For The Engine "dyno," I Was Making A Point That Sometimes Technical Specs. Are Helpful In Solving The Problem !
> Now, The Forum That I Was "booted" Off Of......... Did You Read Everything [do Your Homework], Or Should I Conclude As Above .... That You Only Got Half-the-facts ??? Sincerely, Jim
> [ Your Instructor ]


Your problem is you JUMP to conclusions without doing YOUR homework. You decided that I came to some sort of conclusion, yet you could not be further from reality as I was not willing to draw any conclusions or offer any type of solution based on the information you provided. I asked for additional information that you were either unwilling or did not have the comprehension to provide. 

Instructor?? You flatter yourself!

I don't think you even know what Homework is, or you don't know how to do yours.

You could never be an INSTRUCTOR as you would have to pull your head out of wherever you have it stuck in order see! 

Unless of course the blind leading the blind is instruction.

I did read all the posts and could see you were only looking for someone to agree with your foolhardy ways of trying to take short cuts and avoid doing any actual repairs. Had you read post # 22 and responded rather then rant a conclusion may have come sooner. Many on the other forum advised you to clean out the jets, but you claimed them to be clear, apparently you were WRONG as when you finally did as *YOU WERE INSTRUCTED* and cleaned them, your problem was solved.

You are hardly qualified to label yourself an instructor, but I could think of a few titles you surely are qualified for! :dude:


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## NITROJC

*Mr. Moron*

KENNY to the RESCUE ............ Just like on the other Forum, You Boys stick together ....... Perhaps Your on the Down Low ??? You came to the Rescue of GLENJUDY, on his behalf to bail him out. Like I said before, I don't Believe People are looking for the "CURE-ALL / REBUILD EVERYTHING" Solution.
Before Posting #22, You should have done your Homework, and confirmed the Problem with GLENJUDY. Apparently, Your head was stuck up his .... Where the Sun don't shine !! I am done with this ...... GET A LIFE !!!!!!!!!
P.S. ENOUGH FOR MY "FREE" INSTRUCTIONS.


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## pmoore4321

Excellent!



> You are hardly qualified to label yourself an instructor, but I could think of a few titles you surely are qualified for!


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## 30yearTech

Jim,
Mr. Moron (lol) maybe my new handle after I let you suck me into this, but oh well I am here now, so this part is one thing you may have gotten right.



NITROJC said:


> I am done with this


Thats the best news I have heard in this entire thread.



NITROJC said:


> Before Posting #22, You should have done your Homework, and confirmed the Problem with GLENJUDY


I don't usually collaborate with anyone before offering advise, as I like to reach my own conclusions and would not want anyone else to be blamed if the advise I gave is wrong. No one is perfect and I will be the first to admit when I am mistaken. 

I have read many of Glenjudy's post and they give good advise, if you were to follow the procedure in the service manual, it would advise a rebuild and a kit. Can it be done without one, certainly but many prefer to do it this way and that does not make them wrong. Just skinning that cat a different way! 

You don't have any idea what anyone on this forum is looking for when they ask for advise. If you had asked "how can I fix my engine without any parts?" maybe you would have gotten the reply you were looking for. Instead you asked and this is a quote from one of your posts
"I AM TOTALLY BAFFLED, AND FRUSTRATED. I DESPERATELY NEED SOME HELP HERE. ALL THOUGHTS, AND IDEAS ARE WELCOME."

You hardly make anyone feel WELCOME with your responses.



NITROJC said:


> KENNY to the RESCUE


You Bet!!
You could have simply dismissed any suggestions you were not willing to use or try, instead you come back with posts suggesting that these individuals don't know what they are talking about. You chastise them for not thinking the same way you do. You could not come back and simply say a gracious thank you to Restrorob for his help and instruction, instead you had to have your little dig at everyone in the forum. ("Do your homework" -- "Your Instructor") Take some of your own advise!



NITROJC said:


> ENOUGH FOR MY "FREE" INSTRUCTIONS.


It's a pretty good thing you don't charge for your instruction as I would bet there would be many expecting a refund!

Well I guess I too am done with this thread, as someone suggested I need to "Get a Life" so maybe I should pursue that.

Have a Great day and Best of Luck to you...


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