# Testor's Clear Enamel Gloss vs. Lacquer



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Here's a quick question: 

I'm getting ready to apply decals to my TOS Enterprise. In an effort to keep "silvering" to a minimum, I'll gloss coat first. 

I generally pick up Testor's Gloss Clear Lacquer but this time I grabbed 3 cans of clear enamel. Anyone know anything about this? 

Btw, I used Tamiya enamels for the other coats. I plan on using Dull Coat Lacquer as a sealer. (Like I normally would) I looked for enamel dull coat but found none.


What do you all say??


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If its the model master stuff from their car spray rack I found the enamel stuff to dry sticky and it can yellow. I have always used either the Dullcoat/Glosscoat lacquer stuff, or preferably the lacquer in a jar that you airbrush on. They do not make an enamel clear flat.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

djnick66 said:


> If its the model master stuff from their car spray rack I found the enamel stuff to dry sticky and it can yellow. I have always used either the Dullcoat/Glosscoat lacquer stuff, or preferably the lacquer in a jar that you airbrush on. They do not make an enamel clear flat.


Thanks for that. I'll take this back and get what I know. The hobby shop only had the regular Testor's Gloss Coat, not the Model Master lacquer version. But I'll find the right lacquer.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Flat rules IMO. Model Master only.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Flat rules IMO. Model Master only.


Understood, but I want to gloss coat areas that will have a decal stuck to them. I am the "silvering" king. Silvering is the undesirable outcome of putting decals on dull or satin surfaces causing them to glare and look like stickers. After reading various threads on the subject, it looks like gloss coating will help lessen this phenomenon. 

Then, after gloss/decal application, I'll dull coat the whole thing to regain the proper sheen and to seat the decals down firmer.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Stay away from enamel-based clear coats.

In fact, stay away from enamels all together. Synthetic lacquers (e.g. Tamiya rattle-cans) are the way to go.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

As far as I know the regular Dullcoat/Glosscoat stuff is identical to the Model Master stuff you just pay more for the MM name on the can.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, everyone. As usual I can count on HT.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Understood, but I want to gloss coat areas that will have a decal stuck to them. I am the "silvering" king.


I've gotten a bit of silvering even after doing it the right way, but flat saved my _backsid_e in the end!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Be sure to use Micro Set/Sol or something similar. Even with a clear gloss coat you may need some help.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

If you properly buff out the hull color base coat the surface will be smooth enough without having to apply a glossy clear coat. 

When I built my Randy Cooper Galileo I buffed out the base coat surface, applied the decals, then applied a series of Tamiya rattle-can satin mist coats to seal the decals. Once I'd buffed out the top coat you couldn't tell where the decal ended and the hull began (I've gotten similar results with Model Master paints).



Why bother to apply a glossy clear coat over your base (hull) color when a little buffing with polishing compound or abrasive sheets will accomplish the same result (only more quickly, and without the hassle of an extra clear coat).


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Carson Dyle said:


> If you properly buff out the hull color base coat the surface will be smooth enough without having to apply a glossy clear coat.


Great tip, makes all the sense in the world.:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

What polishing compound do you use Carson? You are such a master at getting a beautifully smooth finish.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I'll use both the Tamiya stuff and Novus, depending on the job. I'm also a big fan of Micro-Mark polishing abrasives. 

But honestly, if all you want to do is prep a surface for decals, a light but thorough wet-sanding with 600, 1000, 1500 will get you there (If you really want to be safe you can follow up with a quick application of polish).

The trick is misting on the clear lacquer top coat over the decals. 3 or 4 light coats will generally be sufficient to seal and protect. After allowing the clear coat to fully cure (I usually allow a very liberal 24 hours) I'll buff it out with polishing compound to achieve the desired surface sheen. 



Naturally you don't want to blast too much lacquer over your decals, but if you apply in mist coats you shouldn't have any trouble. Practice on a test strip first to get the hang of it. 

I know some of you guys are thinking "Who has time for all that prep-work?," but the process actually goes pretty quickly (a lot more quickly than waiting for a superfluous coat of Enamel-based clear gloss to fully cure).

Just my five cents.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

I use Future for applying decals. It's nice and glossy, goes on thin, doesn't yellow and is cheap.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Carson Dyle said:


> If you properly buff out the hull color base coat the surface will be smooth enough without having to apply a glossy clear coat.
> 
> Why bother to apply a glossy clear coat over your base (hull) color when a little buffing with polishing compound or abrasive sheets will accomplish the same result (only more quickly, and without the hassle of an extra clear coat).


There are a lot of reasons why you may not be able to do that. Not that it doesnt work.

Some decals require a smooth high gloss surface. Not just polished. Not satin. But super slick smooth.

Some models are not smooth and may not buff up. For example military models with raised details. The example you show is easy - big flat, smooth surfaces to start with. Even figure models these days have decals, like camouflage patterns that cover large areas of the surface.

If you have a large model with a lot of decals, you may not want to polish the whole thing. Polishing a 1/350 Enterprise would not be easy. The model is somewhat fragile and it has a bazillion decals.

Clear coats do more than help with decals. Perhaps you painted the model with a mix of flat or satin and gloss paints. You want to blend them in with each other, and clear coats help with that.

Polishing a lot of metal finishes like Alclad is either not possible or will change the finish (more than a clear coat will)


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Certainly there are instances where applying a gloss coat may be preferable to buffing/polishing out a given surface (military subjects with lots of raised detail being a good example). I only wished to point that a decal-friendly surface can often be quickly and easily achieved without having to resort to a gloss coat.

From my perspective, the fewer coats of lacquer (or whatever) I have to lay down over a model the fewer surface imperfections I'll have to buff out later. When it comes to gloss coats -- especially enamel-based gloss coats -- less is more.

But, you know, whatever works for you. 

Good luck with your buildup, kdaracal.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

:wave:Thanks again, everyone. This is really good info all around. You guys rock. I want that front *USS ENTERPRISE 1701* to really look great. I'll do some buffing and see where that gets me. There seems to be plenty of "tooth' on this Tamiya AS-2 enamel paint I used. Not a bad thing, just worrisome. 

I declare this model *"Non- Silvered"*

If I'm not mistaken, the decals cannot be sold separately. So I'll only have one chance until someone makes an aftermarket sheet...


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I will buy the marking masks for this kit and cut to the chase. 

The Tamiya AS paints are not enamel they are synthetic lacquer.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

djnick66 said:


> I will buy the marking masks for this kit and cut to the chase.
> 
> The Tamiya AS paints are not enamel they are synthetic lacquer.


Holy crud! Man I'm glad you told me that!! Enamel would have been a disaster. The package does not say enamel. I'm so stupid.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The Tamiya sprays are great. You can paint enamel over them, or any other kind of paint. You just can't spray them on top of enamel as they will blister it. Plus they dry very hard and durable so you could buff it out a bit. Enamels tend to be soft and will rub off.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Yeah, Tamiya synthetic lacquer is pretty much my go-to finish these days. I'll even decant the rattle-cans and run the paint through my airbrush.

I love how versatile, fast-curing, durable, and generally easy to use they are. As you can tell from my comments upthread I'm a big fan of buffing out finishes between coats, and Tamiya synth-lacquers react extremely well to polishing abrasives.

I'll use Model Master and Alclad II for certain metallic finishes, and Tamiya acrylics when working on the occasional figure kit, but when it comes to most other sci-fi hardware projects Tamiya blows the competition away. 

Oh, and their primers are second to none.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Carson Dyle said:


> when it comes to most other sci-fi hardware projects Tamiya blows the competition away.


Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Tamiya's enamels are also excellent (and little known). You have to buy them from some place like Lucky Model.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> If I'm not mistaken, the decals cannot be sold separately. So I'll only have one chance until someone makes an aftermarket sheet...


I think Aztek Dummy (Lou) is coming out with a set of vinyl masks so you can actually paint on the NCC-1701 and the other registry stuff!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

KUROK said:


> I think Aztek Dummy (Lou) is coming out with a set of vinyl masks so you can actually paint on the NCC-1701 and the other registry stuff!


Wow! Nice!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

KUROK said:


> I think Aztek Dummy (Lou) is coming out with a set of vinyl masks so you can actually paint on the NCC-1701 and the other registry stuff!


Lou; our silvering saviour.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I'm so glad Lou (and others) are offering masks for the registration numbers/ livery markings, etc. 

Decals are always a bit dodgy, and getting a perfectly seamless meld between decal and hull can be a tremendous challenge. Being able to actually airbrush the livery markings directly onto the hull will enable willing modelers to really take their finishes to the next level.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Lou; our silvering saviour.


So true!:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Here's what I think I'll try:

1. Cut out decal neatly as possible
2. Mark decal dimensions/perimeter with light pencil marks
3. Buff that area with a precision low-speed Dremel buffer pad (soft) and rubbing compound made for models
4. Brush on a thin coat of Future, just inside the decal perimeter area
5. Apply decal to prepped surface using TSDS brand decal set
6. Lightly coat dried decal with Testor's Dull Coat rattle can

This will create the least affected area and maximize silvering reduction. The current surface is as flawless as I've ever had on a model. I hate to ruin it.

Feel free to comment!!:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Personally, I'd skip the Future as I wouldn't want an extra layer- I'd brush the decal set & put the decal down & coat it. But, while I've had success, so don't take that as expert advice, just anecdotal input.


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