# Kinda new to small gas engines please help



## smallgassman (Feb 2, 2005)

Hello everyone. I need some help getting this Bolens 6.5hp motor apart. I have took apart a few motors in small gas engines class but none of them had the thing to attach the blade to the crank on them and I can't seem figure out how to get this one off. I have tried to use the gear puller but there is nothing in the center to pull on :wave: and the puller won't grip onto anything anyways. Any help would be well taken.


----------



## smallgassman (Feb 2, 2005)

My mistake, the motor I'm working on now is a 4.5hp. The 6.5 is nexted on my list. By the way, the reason the gear puller won't grip the peice on the crank(I don't know what it is called)is cause I broke one side off of it. But I still have to get it off to weld it back together.


----------



## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

well, the blade adapter will come off with the blade removed, if its stuck, spray it around the crank with wd40, wait a few minutes, then tap it with a hammper and take it off


----------



## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yeah unless its super rusted then its gonna be something to get off.. even with wd-40


----------



## mustang91347 (Feb 3, 2005)

best thing for that is a torch and a brass hammer . heat up the shaft (make sure u dont burn the oil seal around the shaft) then rock the blade adapter back and forth with the hammer. just work it off. dont hit it hard enough to bend the shaft and dont use a mine sledge or anything


----------



## smallgassman (Feb 2, 2005)

That sounds like it would work. The oil seal is already bad in it so I won't have to worry about that. Can you get those oil seals from any repair shop? And how much would one cost? I think I'm gunna try that first thing in the morning. Thanks alot guys :thumbsup: . If I get it off you guy will sure have been a big help. :thumbsup: 

Till next time... :wave:


----------



## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yeah you can get em at a repair shop and they aren't very expensive, just go easy on the adapter though. thank god its easier then a rider trans, now that's a s.o.b to get out and clean off by yourself. then greasing its simple but putting it back in


----------



## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I would recommend getting a can of PB Blaster to help loosen up the blade adapter if it's rusted (you can get it at any auto parts store). It is a spray on penetrating catalyst that will break apart rust in no time. I swear by the stuff because it's the only thing I have ever see that can free up rusted exhaust manifold bolts without any trouble. If you want to make it work a little faster do what mustang91347 said and heat the blad adapter up with a torch, spray it full of PB Blaster, then wait about 10 minutes.....the blade adapter will fall off.


----------



## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

candle wax and a little heat will do it to it that all i use but the pb does work good,tap it the same way the engine turns also sometimes that will do the trick


----------



## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

smallgassman said:


> My mistake, the motor I'm working on now is a 4.5hp. The 6.5 is nexted on my list. By the way, the reason the gear puller won't grip the peice on the crank(I don't know what it is called)is cause I broke one side off of it. But I still have to get it off to weld it back together.


 no dont weld it back togather thats verry dangerous the blade adapter is like 3 bucks lot less than a blade in the knee


----------



## smallgassman (Feb 2, 2005)

Well thanks to all. I heated the blade adapter and it poped right off. After a valve job and some new reangs the motor is runing like a dream. The only real thing wrong was that someone took it apart and didn't put it back in time. :wave:


----------



## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

haha yeah just the other day i was gonna rebuild this 3.0 briggs, well some stupid idiot welded the adapter on and well he ran it with a bent crank and it killed the engine. after cutting the end of the crank off i salvaged the piston and rod since they were good and the rings as well were to. and the valve's tappets, and cam, etc and block, had to throw the sump away due to a hole in it so all in all i have parts. always buy a new adapter if the old one is screwed, saves the engine. and p.s. the idiot also used a bent blade that was out of balance, i tell ya idiots, what can you do, wish you luck with the engine.


----------



## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

smallgassman said:


> Well thanks to all. I heated the blade adapter and it poped right off. After a valve job and some new reangs the motor is runing like a dream. The only real thing wrong was that someone took it apart and didn't put it back in time. :wave:


 might check out the flywheel key
made a mistake oops was suppose to be in a pm box


----------



## smallgassman (Feb 2, 2005)

WHat do you mean when you said check the flywheel key? What does the flywheel key have to do with anything? you got me confused


----------



## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

its got nothing to do with it. if it runs fine it is not a problem. sure you checked that when you rebuilt.


----------



## smallgassman (Feb 2, 2005)

Yep...It was just fine. But I replaced it anyways....No...Not just cause I wanted to. It got lost, some how, when I was taking the motor apart. :wave:


----------

