# Rebuilding a 5hp Briggs



## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

My name is Dan, and I am new here. I have an old 5hp Briggs engine that my go cart came with when I got it from my uncle. It didn't start for a long time since he had it, so when I got the cart, I bought a 6hp Subaru Robin engine. Just for fun, *I HAVE DECIDED TO REBUILD THE OLD BRIGGS ENGINE*. I have some experience with engines, and I love working on things. I thought it would be a good project, and this way, I would always have a running small engine handy.

When I got the engine form my uncle, of course, I tried to start it. With the help of my father, we concluded that the engine is not getting a spark. The plug, and wire were/are fine, so it must be the little "COIL". I am not sure what it would be called on a gocart. I need help fixing, or obtaining one.

*ANY TIPS YOU COULD GIVE ME ON REBUILDING A SMALL ENGINE, I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE.* The cylinder walls look awesome, no scratches or anything. I cleaned off the valves, and head, by gringing off dirt, and cleaning the whole engine with heavy duty degreaser.

*WHAT DO I DO NOW? WHAT IS THE NEXT STEP IN THE REBUILDING PROCESS?*

Please, just give me all the info. you have, that I may need. Thank you very much.  

(I put important phrases in bold for the people who just skim through, and don't care to read my boreing text).


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## bsman (Jan 22, 2006)

Well you came to the right place. I just got done rebuilding my 16 hp. briggs and got almost all of the help I needed off of here.

If it's not getting a spark, try a new plug which i'm sure you already have. Check the gap, you might have to google for the right info if you don't have a manual. Coils you can get through the internet, or may have to order from a tractor supply company. Although I don't know if your engine has points?? Doulble check all wire, ya never know, mice love wires.

If the cylinders are good, that's good. Make sure to check the crank and camshaft for any play that may need to be adjusted. :thumbsup: 

Make sure to replace all of the gaskets, even if they look fine, that way you know that they are fresh and new. Make sure to remove all of the old ones completely. That just about does it for internal. I would take the carb off and soak it in carb cleaner for a couple of hours. make sure to remember how all of the linkages go, you'll thank yourself when they need to back together. Good luck and have fun!!! Hurry up, summers a comming


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

It is good to hear from someone, I feel like I am now getting somewhere. Ok, my Dad travels past a Tractor Supply when he goes to work, so I can ask him to pick me up a coil. I don't really know what points are, but I can describe it... It is a small unit that bolts to the engine. It has 2 strong magnets that come very close to toughing the flywheel. Which system is that?

As for the plug. When I used to try to bring the engine to life, when I first got it, I did replace the plug; however it has been sitting here for about 6 months now, and somehow the plug broke. So, I need to buy a new plug, not a big deal. I don't think the gap should be a problem though, I mean it will be getting a brand new plug.

I am glad you brought up the WIRES. Although it is a very small engine, and doesn't have many wires, the ones that it does have must be mandatory. There are 2 wires coming from right where the flywheel meets the block. 1.) Just ends, I am almost posative it used to go to the kill switch. So, I have no idea what to do with that. 2.) The other connects to the coil, but is currently disconnected, because I am planning on replacing the coil.

There are 2 more wires coming off of the coil that are bound together as 1 wire. At the end of this wire, which is not very long, there is one of those washer looking things, suggesting that maybe it should bolt to something, I don't know.

I will probably go about finding a complete rebuild kit, with gaskets. What do you think? Would this be the best way, or should I buy them individually. I no for a fact it needs an oil pan gasket. The head gasket looks ok, but I will replace it anyway, and same goes for the carb meets the block gasket. No exhaust gasket is needed, as I am not bolting on the stock exhaust, because I found out the exhaust is threaded. I will just screw in a 3/4" pipe, and connect that to a muffler when i want it quiet.

How's my situation sound?

ANY HELP, FROM ANYONE, WILL BE WELL APPRECIATED. THNAKS.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Yeah the exhaust is threaded, whats the model,type, and code numbers? just to determine the age, if its from the 80's though, it probablly doesn't have points, they got rid of em and went to a magnetron ignition, now I gap the coils with a peice of paper or a dollar bill, till it comes out with little force, but doesn't rip, try it without the kill wire first! and make sure ( this side out ) is facing towards you, 2 more wires though sounds like it may have points, the newer magnetron ignitions used one wire for the kill wire, but of course not including the spark plug wire, which can crack or rub and short to the shroud and give no spark as well, if it has points ( need numbers though ) it can be converted to the newer style, or just get new points and condensor pretty cheap. Make sure the plug is gapped at .30 though, champions usually come gapped wrong in some cases. It would be a good idea to get all the gaskets right off the bat, and do take a pic of the carb linkage, its pretty hard to remember where it all goes back on these.... as for the cylinder walls, no wear ridge? except maybe a little carbon, then it could have good compression, though it wouldn't be a bad idea to go for new rings and a hone job, but its not needed though if the cylinder looks good.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Model:130212
Type: 1113-01
Code: 8205130


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

( Illustrated parts manual ) from the briggs website

http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BShopProductListingPage.asp?MecID=100&CatalogID=56B2B9A7-283C-11D4-8886-00B0D0203414&SessionID=43C7B3A0-6A44-4EB2-B2CC-23B437198A68&SMSID=Smart+Search&ViewName=htsDIY&EngineModelNumber=130212&EngineType=1113#

and the ( owners manual )

http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BShopProductListingPage.asp?MecID=100&CatalogID=56B2B9AF-283C-11D4-8886-00B0D0203414&SessionID=43C7B3A0-6A44-4EB2-B2CC-23B437198A68&SMSID=Smart+Search&ViewName=htsDIY&EngineModelNumber=130212#

since its a 82, its so close to having point/condensor type system and to not have it. By looking at the illustrated parts list, it shows a point and condensor system, you might want to take the flywheel off to check (while your there, make sure the flywheel key it good as well), and to add when you get a new head gasket, take make sure the head and block mating surface is good and flat, so not to blow the new head gasket.


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## bsman (Jan 22, 2006)

the coil is the thing that almost touches the flywheel, when the magnet on the flywheel goes past it, that is how the engine times the spark to go at the right time.


ALSO>>> Check out Foley Belsaw, they have lots of small engine parts at wholesale pricing, if ya just want to wait for shipping.


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## bsman (Jan 22, 2006)

Ohh, one more thing, does the wires comming from the coil go directly to the plugs??


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

bsman said:


> Ohh, one more thing, does the wires comming from the coil go directly to the plugs??


There is of course one wire coming off of the coil, that goes to the spark plug. The only other 2 wires coming off the coil (the ones I described earlier) just connect to eachother, and go nowhere. I have no idea where it goes.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

bugman said:


> ( Illustrated parts manual ) from the briggs website
> 
> http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BShopProductListingPage.asp?MecID=100&CatalogID=56B2B9A7-283C-11D4-8886-00B0D0203414&SessionID=43C7B3A0-6A44-4EB2-B2CC-23B437198A68&SMSID=Smart+Search&ViewName=htsDIY&EngineModelNumber=130212&EngineType=1113#
> 
> ...


I need to buy a flywheel puller, don't I. I have always wanted one, because I always find myself messing around with small engines, just for fun, but is there any other way to get the flywheel off in case I can't get my hands on one of those tools?

Ok, so say I get the flywheel off... I have no idea what will be behind there. Am I looking to see if it is a points system, or a coil? If so, what am I looking for?

Btw, thanks to all, you have been a tereffic help!


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

You can usually take the flywheel nut off, or since its old enough to have a starter clutch, the starter clutch, and spin the flywheel around, while you hit on the flywheel from underneath, it should pop off.... or you can buy a flywheel puller, or one of those impact ones, where you screw it on the end of the crank, just a little from the flywheel, and hit on it with a hammer. Now when you do take it off, if it has points, it'll have a aluminum cover there, one screw I beleive, if no points, well you'll just see the flywheel key on the crank, and a empty spot, no cover.... while your there, be sure to make sure the flywheel keys good, they are cheap to replace as well.


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## bsman (Jan 22, 2006)

69GTOby said:


> There is of course one wire coming off of the coil, that goes to the spark plug. The only other 2 wires coming off the coil (the ones I described earlier) just connect to eachother, and go nowhere. I have no idea where it goes.



when I rebuilt mine, (V- TWIN) the coil only had 2 wires comming from it, one for both spark plugs.

I don't know much about the "dark side" of the flywheel, never took mine off. Do check the kkey and make sure it is still good.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Well, one thing to remember, that v twin had two cylinders, so two spark plug wires, and this is a single cylinder. A points system had wires going under the flywheel to the point/condensor system, of course a conversion kit would get rid of points, 

http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=9&p_created=948317400

they didn't get rid of em till 83, one year off.....


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## steider (Aug 1, 2005)

Make sure the kill switch wire or grounding wire is properly connected and not shorted out. next check the air gap. if both of these are ok. then the problem is probably your electronic module. If you have points take off the flywheel and check that to. Some points have a plunger rod that is driven off the crankshaft. The rod passes through a bushing the the crankcase. Over time these bushing wear and allows oil to seep past onto the condensor and points area. If thats the case you need to replace the bushing, rod , condenser and points.


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## mitchell (Jan 15, 2006)

*5 hp rebuild*

IT is easy to change to electronic coil, as a matter of fact its better, you will get an easier startup from switching from points to electronic coil.One wire goes to spark plug, the wire underneath coil goes to ground,somewhere around your throttle linkage,also note coil will say this side up.I HAVE SAW THEM put on upside down before.IF you get the engine back together and it by some chance blows compression back through the carb, check your valve clearances between the tappets, that will be located behind the tank carburetor on the engine block. Piston will have to be at top dead center on compression stroke,you should be able to insert a feeler guage between the tappet and valve stem,I THINK ITS .005-.007 FOR INTAKE AND .009-011 FOR EXHAUST. IF you cant insert .005 feeler guage blade between intake stem and tappet, you will need to unbridle the spring holding the valve, remove the valve and file a few thousandths off, or replace the valve, either case,there 
would be some grinding involved, hopefully you wont have any valve problems. http://news.smallenginetrblshtng.com


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Alright. Thanks to all of you guys fo all the help. Sorry I haven't responded, I am still trying to get that flywheel off. So, if it is easy enough, I am going to switch to the electronic coil system, because the whole starting system needs replaced anyway, so why not upgrade? WHERE COULD I GET A DECENT DEAL ON THIS? I wil have to buy it off of the internet, right?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Either the internet or a small engine shop, I beleive briggs had it listed for 15 bucks.


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## 350z (Jan 2, 2006)

The easist way to remove the flywheel is to:
1--remove the starter clutch and nut---you can buy a tool from briggs for this I think I paid like 7.00 for mine
2--put the nut back on the crank about half way (half of the threads on the crank and half off the crank
3--get a propane torch and heat EVENLY around the area that slips on the crank
4--take a rubber mallet or plastic ended hammer and give the crank nut a sharp tap
Works every time
Theres really no need to remove the flywheel if you have the magnatron(electronic)ignition unless the timing key broke and your out of time.
But from the sounds of it if theres 2 wires coming from the coil you may have points(one wire from coil and one from (behind the flywheel) any way the 2 wires should not be connected...why don't you post a pic and I could tell from that. I build racing kart motors so I have mucho experance with these babys.
hope this helps.
Scott


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Alright I am going to work on getting a pic on here.


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## curtis_0432 (Jun 11, 2006)

*i need some help with my gocart*

ok my gocart i got running but like when i go to take off in it , like if i hit the pedal to hard it chokes off for some reason and its terbly slow on the take off i know its got acrapy clutch on it its a birggs and stratton motor 5hp so i didnt completley tare it apart i just took off the head and made sure the piston was good and the cylnder was good so i just bolted it back up and the coils getting fire fine but for some reason it chokes off well thanks any good advice will be apprecheated thanks people


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## curtis_0432 (Jun 11, 2006)

thanks any help willl be apprecheated


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Does it have that foam stuff in the tank....? if so, how old is the engine? over time that foam will degrade and plug the fuel pickup tubes. I'd suggest a good carb rebuild....tear it apart, soak it in carb cleaner and blow it out with compressed air. Replace the diapragm as well.
If the foam stuff is degraded, remove the foam stuff.


Oh and its spelled appreciated.....


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