# DIY waterslide decal question



## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Howdy all. So I've taken to doing my own decals using waterslide decal paper on my printer. My first try was with a Testors kit from my local shop. They actually turned out pretty decent. Now I've ordered the decal paper from Micro Mark, and I notice this stuff behaves a little differently. Ive been using Krylon clear to seal the decals, and micro scale and micro sol to apply, and I notice with the micromark paper...decals seem to tend to want to curl up at the edges. It only does it a little, but gets especially difficult when I apply the micro sol.

Don't want to blame the paper yet...just wondering if there's any tricks I might try or errors I might be making. 

Any ideas?

Trev


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

don't have a good answer for you.
the vinegar content in the solution might be too high for that film..
couldn't hurt to check out the model building boards too.
I think they might have a lot more experience with this subject.

let us know your findings please.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

I still use the Testor's paper, maybe I'm missing something??? Try some clear lacquer for your sealer coat, about 2 quick coats, letting dry between coats. I have had the same problem with the decals curling, problem seemed to be not enough clear coat on top...RM


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Another thing that I have found that works pretty well is a true acrylic clear, like a craft clear. But I try to only coat the decals as I have never gotten the shine & smoothness I wanted out of this type of clear. You can apply another clear coat over it after about a week of drying time and it has to be light coats or it will wrinkle from the solvents, I usually put my base clear on the body, then apply decals, then coat and do the best you can to blend in the decals. Anytime I buy a new clear I shoot some into a plastic cup and let it sit to dry, you would be surprised how many rattle can clears have a yellow / brown tint to it, and it will change the colors of your decals and paint.

Boosted


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Thanks for giving me some food for thought. I think I have it figured out though. I think I was holding the decal in the water too long. I went back and...you know...read the instructions, and it said to dip the decal in water then let it sit, not in the water, for about a minute before applying. I was holding it in the water too long and am guessing the backing stuff was getting partly washed away. Tried a couple more this way and it seems I have that problem licked.

Learning to work within the limitations of diy waterslides has been interesting. Fortunately for me I'm just looking for "arms length quality" for my runners...just to have some numbers etc on my racers. These ones are gonna get beat to crap so I'm not looking for perfection. I'll throw some pics up when I have a chance.


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## Super G Man (May 13, 2013)

I think the Micro-Sol is what is curling your decals. It does the same thing on the decals that I buy from Pattos so I try not to use it unless I'm applying decal film to a body for windows or windshields. Use Micro-Set and maybe dilute it with water before applying. 






Shadowracer said:


> Howdy all. So I've taken to doing my own decals using waterslide decal paper on my printer. My first try was with a Testors kit from my local shop. They actually turned out pretty decent. Now I've ordered the decal paper from Micro Mark, and I notice this stuff behaves a little differently. Ive been using Krylon clear to seal the decals, and micro scale and micro sol to apply, and I notice with the micromark paper...decals seem to tend to want to curl up at the edges. It only does it a little, but gets especially difficult when I apply the micro sol.
> 
> Don't want to blame the paper yet...just wondering if there's any tricks I might try or errors I might be making.
> 
> ...


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

I have used Testors decals with good results as well. I also have been using Testors Decal Bonder, 2 or 3 coats before I cut out the decals. That seems to work better than Krylon Crystal Clear. To keep from having the decals curl up you might avoid using Micro Solv or try Micro Set instead. When you print on white paper you have to be careful cutting them out, you can save yourself some grief if you make the background color match the body color of the car.


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## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Thought i made post on this as a former competition model builder..

I have found the best results are obtained by using future floor polish as a carrier film sprayed through an airbrush. Only do a tiny bit. The thinner the carrier the better the decal will look an the model.

Then instead of using acid based setting solutions, simply apply the decal to a little puddle of future and smooth it out with a small soft brush. Learn to do this properly and the decal film will all but disappear.


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## vickers83 (Mar 8, 2010)

leonus said:


> Thought i made post on this as a former competition model builder..
> 
> I have found the best results are obtained by using future floor polish as a carrier film sprayed through an airbrush. Only do a tiny bit. The thinner the carrier the better the decal will look an the model.
> 
> Then instead of using acid based setting solutions, simply apply the decal to a little puddle of future and smooth it out with a small soft brush. Learn to do this properly and the decal film will all but disappear.


Sorry Leonus, But future floor wax will never, ever touch a car of mine again. After 5-8 years every one of them started yellowing & spider-webbing.....


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## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

vickers83 said:


> Sorry Leonus, But future floor wax will never, ever touch a car of mine again. After 5-8 years every one of them started yellowing & spider-webbing.....


Sorry to hear that...

I have model airplane canopies that are twice that old and still as crystal clear as the day i dipped them..

They are in sealed display cases though..maybe thats the difference..they never get touched.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Thought of "Video Jimmy" today. Most of the grey backs know I'm the Anti-Decal-er, and have ribbed me mercilessly for years.

*BUT*, on the rare occasion that I do still goob some water slides on. I think of some tips Jimmy imparted to me in the stone age about "fundamentals". Back before he got married, had a beautiful baby girl, moved to the country, and dropped off the face of the slot car world; he could really slather the mucilaginous artwork with the best of them.

So aside from the actual paper and pre-coatings debate, whether using Factory or DIY; I accepted that there is still considerable human involvement in the prep and application process. I adjusted my technique accordingly. :freak:

Always gently trim your artwork neatly as you can on a hard surface using a fresh blade. Pull your cuts in one direction. The hard surface prevents pre-setting an awkward roll/curl on the edge of the transfer. By always pulling the blade gently away you prevent ragged corners and keep your edges neat and free of imperfections. If your a doubter, put your magnifiers on and compare. The difference between a fresh or used blade is NIGHT AND DAY! Scissors are an absolute no-no except for roughing them out.

Fuzzed, frizzled, and failed edges are, more often than not, the final result of a mechanical process. The chemistry is more of a secondary effect, that just aggravates the raggedy edges when you have to over work/soften a ratty "pringled up" decal.

Being old, and being old school with fat old fingers, I like to use a little dish washing soap as a dispersant, when I'm floating water slides. It offers a little extra wiggle once you've contacted the work piece, just in case you didnt hit the bulls-eye. I use a synthetic brush in one hand for the initial transfer, so they slide right off. I have another brush in the other hand to help orient and hold the final placement, before I finally poke it down gently. If you dont hold the position, things can squirm off line or out of rotation, when you start to squeeze them down. The idea is to keep some liquid under them until they are located satisfactorily; rather than mashing them down and trying to shift your way out of trouble after the fact.

To that end, I've also found that it really helps to back up and get your nose off the model. The tendency is to wind your vision down and over focus on the application. Adjusting my focus helps me keep the application registered plumb and square, when I back the heck up and look at the whole model during the wetting process.

Keep in mind that micro sol is acidic. It is not really intended for relocating or shifting a decal laterally. It only allows enough stretch for topographical adjustment/adhesion, so that the transfer film can settle over irregular or multi planar conditions. Use only enough to just cover the decal. It does take time to soak in and for the chemistry to work. Let it eat until the artwork has softened and settled. Only when necessary, gently daub any uncooperative areas.

Dont panic! If it doesnt settle to your liking just relax, let it dry out, and repeat the process until it eventually submits.

Hope some of this OCD nonsense helps Trev.


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Bill Hall said:


> Hope some of this OCD nonsense helps Trev.


Actually...you've given me quite a lot to think about. I've been using scissors pretty much exclusively. That might be part of the problem. I thought if I used a decent pair of scissors it might work...but I'll try it with a blade and see how it works.


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