# rail juice do you use it ??



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

:wave:hey fellas i got some juice but i,m not sure how to use it correctly.do you apply it with a q tip or a roller ? seems to me i may have put too much on then the cars slip ,the tires get gummed up then it,s on the windshield then i slip on it a fall and crack my head. is there a proper method of appling this stuff or should it stay in the bottle.i havnt put it on since november or so.pros and conns will help me weather to apply or not to.anytakers? thanx joe g


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

the only thing i use on HO track rails is an abrasive sponge with a bit of WD40.sandpaper leaves too much crud on the track,so i just use one of those sanding sponges painters and drywallers use.i have heard some guys use railzip,from railroading.i like WD40 as it evaporates,but only use it if i am getting deadspots,or too much oxidation from storing the track


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Same here, a sand sponge and WD40, when ever I run the track.
Lately, I haven't been using anything.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Guys, may I suggest the Buffing Block for power rail conditioning. Not harsh like sand paper, no chemicals needed. Just gently rub (with minimal downforce) the rails applying sides 1-4 of the block. By the time you finish with side 4, the rails will be shiny and smooth like brand new "out of the box". The nice thing is that it does not scratch the track pavement surface like sand paper. Residue is minimal. Just follow up with a lint-free cloth moistened with 409 (or your favorite cleaner) and you will be race ready. They are cheap at $2/ea and available at any WalMart. It will be the best two bucks you ever spent.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Trim-Nail-Care-Implement-Buffing-Block-1-ct/10413888#ProductDetail


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

I've used the model railroad block, vacuum track, clean w/comm'l. 409
and re-vacuum a 2nd time. The RR block is about $7, is the nail buffing 
block similar?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

I'm REALLY lazy!

...but it should be noted that I'm in the slot cave at least twice a week so the dust, crust, and rust doesnt get to settle often or thick.

I drop the track cleaner (with a fine stone or abrasive block, depends on if I got scunge or corrosion) on and set the ghost controller to "duh" while I'm puttering at the bench. You can hear the rails clean up as the cleaner comes up to speed. When the lane is done I plop it on the next and repeat. 5 er 10 laps is all it takes. Once in a blue moon I'll have to hand buff with the rail block to an isolated area, but it's pretty rare. 

After the rails are buffed off; I remove the residual particles and Klingons with a Swiffer, and there's no tribble a'tall.

Twice a year er so I massage the plastic surface with a product by Mothers called "Black Back" for automotive bumpers and trim. I blot up a rag, squeeze and work it in, THEN apply! So's not have excessive goo to clean up. I vacuum the table and slots whenever I do the slotcave.


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

If it's been awhile, I will vacuum over the track first to get any big chunks, then I dampen a rag with denatured alcohol and wipe the whole thing down. Maybe once or twice a year I will dampen a rag with WD-40 after that and wipe down, let it sit for a little while then wipe it down with denatured alcohol again.

After that, I take an old magnet car and run 10-20 laps cleaning the tires every few laps and it's good to go!


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

rail jooce :freak:










:thumbsup:


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

i was tryin to apply this red stuff with a q tip to the rails then run a car everything was gettin gummed up. so glad to hear u guy adding to this cuz i just dont know.seems like sometime you can hear the pick up shoe really scrubbin on the rail and just wanted it to settle down.schusssssh thats what it sounds like.i am lookin for more like a shusssssh.you got that right?


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Dom, as far as the RR block, I have no personal experience. I recommend the nail buffing block as an alternative to abrasive sanding blocks or sponges. With this block, there is very little residue other than a hint of fine dust. Clean-up is easy.

Marty, vacuuming is always good and more vacuuming is better. A light application of WD 40 is a good rust inhibitor to use between cleanings as well.

Bill, I love your idea of dragging a stone around the track the best. When I get more time, I'll convert a car or "something" into a track cleaner. What vehicle did you use for yours? I saw a thread where a guy reworked a Tyco train into a slot track cleaner to do kinda what you are talking about.

Hey, they make "Roomba" for vacuuming the carpet, why not a "Trackbot" for our race tracks? Someday...... Well for now, buffing with the block once a month will have to do.


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## resinmonger (Mar 5, 2008)

When my track gets dusty or the rails are a wee bit wonky, I use tequila. After drinking a few shots, the track's condition doesn't seem so important and I can't keep a car on the track anyway.

:freak: :drunk: :freak: :drunk:


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

The thing I don't like about the stones and the sandpaper is that it wears down the rails quicker, and unfortunately you can't put that rail back on....

A good magnet car and some throw away pickup shoes has typically been enough for me to scrub off any crap left behind by me not running for awhile.

I will definitely try the tequila thing, although I may substitute it for my good friend Jack Daniels.


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

resinmonger said:


> When my track gets dusty or the rails are a wee bit wonky, I use tequila. After drinking a few shots, the track's condition doesn't seem so important and I can't keep a car on the track anyway.
> 
> :freak: :drunk: :freak: :drunk:


ROTFLMAO!!!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Track Janitor*



Sir Slotsalot said:


> Dom, as far as the RR block, I have no personal experience. I recommend the nail buffing block as an alternative to abrasive sanding blocks or sponges. With this block, there is very little residue other than a hint of fine dust. Clean-up is easy.
> 
> Marty, vacuuming is always good and more vacuuming is better. A light application of WD 40 is a good rust inhibitor to use between cleanings as well.
> 
> ...


While I can see Marty's point about the whole stone wearing your rails away idea, he has a state of the art Brystal with the rails all slinked in purdy like... and I have "jerk and doink ya" vintage aurora track where the rails are riding high and proud like the teeth of a 30 year old nag... due to plastic shrinkage. If anything the stone helps with the receding gumline and the exposed rail. 

All kidding aside, Marty's track is ultra bitchen and I wouldnt let a stone near it either! 










All the veterans have seen this schtick before, so they can leave the room on the been there done that plan.

I been cleaning train and or slotrails all my life. I been cleaning this or that my whole life anyway...from A to Z! I got back into slots and hated cleaning rails just like I always did...which is why I stopped at "Z" for Zoomboni. Here's a few stoneage cave paintings of the Zoomboni evolution. It started as a doodle on an A&W napkin one night in chat.










Typically things get out of hand and this perverted lil' thing was born. Ya really dont have to have the PTO monkey motion railzip roller contraption out back. That's just an added affectation cuz I'm basically a T-jet tard.










At the time Oscars were fetching fat coin so a Tyco US-1 chassis was chosen because...they're a kindred spirit of the Oscar... they're worm drive and have great grunt... and unlike the Oscar's weak point (the pick ups) they have a huge and virtually foolproof contact patch; with the whole forward- backward dual shoe dealio...and best of all they were cheaper than dirt.

If you look close at the forward edge of the T-jet cab you'll see just a peek of a slab of rail eraser whittled to fit vertically behind the grill area. I also have a fine hone that interchanges for the grodier jobs. It's a gravity powered self feed thing that requires only the occasional wipe... if even that.
She just putts along unsupervised on the ghost controller with no complaints. 

So I guess the point is that ya dont need much...just something to hold an eraser or a stone. Even a magnet car with a pen eraser jammed in the trunk would be satisfactory.


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

[I will definitely try the tequila thing, although I may substitute it for my good friend Jack Daniels. [/QUOTE]

hee hee,i see a trend here,guys!just don't put yer drink on the track!cool to see yer track zoomboni again Bill!


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

Hey Bill, that's freaking awesome my man, the zoomboni strikes again! I would hate to be a stray spider wandering across the track looking for some quality fly guts and have that thing lay a smooshdown on me.... 

I'll just try not to spill a bud light as I send a SG+ into corner 3 at light speed.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Bill Hall said:


>


Dude, put some new headlights in that rig!

Cool build Bill. Reminds me of those yard trucks that have the magnet bar hanging across the front to pick up bolts and debris to save tires.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

All you need is T-Jet parts and a dream.......


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## [email protected] (Jan 31, 2010)

Awesome idea for a track cleaner. Now I know what to do with the dozen or so US-1 chassis I have that are not collector quality:thumbsup: I need to get me some track cleaning pads for trains and I will also make one to wipe everything up with a touch of alcohol. Good thing I'm all out of Whiskey. Crazy how softball season makes me go through a case in a summer and a bottle lasts me all winter.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I had been using Rail-Zip about once a year as described on the bottle. It worked well but was a bit messy. Lately I have been using DeoxIT (http://www.caig.com/) in a felt-tip pen like applicator that seems to have the same performance as Rail-Zip but is much easier to apply. I found it at the computer geek store and it's designed to clean the card edge connectors on computer boards. It seems to work very well on pickup shoes and other electrical contacts on slot cars. I have never had any signs of rust in the 6 or 7 years that my track has been in commission. However, I did have my basement completely integrated with my HVAC system when I finished it, cold air returns and all. This probably has more to do with the condition of my track than anything else.

In between it's a vacuum or Swiffer, followed by a light wipe with 90% isopropyl alcohol on a microfiber cloth. I keep a spray bottle filled with alcohol and spray the cloth, not the track. Frankly, the rails always look great and the pre-race cleanings are more to get up the dust and any residual oil and tire debris from past use. 

I never use any water based cleaning products.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

*Inox experience in HO?*

Nice to have a proven working solution to the grungy problem of track cleaning. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

The name DeoxIT reminds me of a product I've been hearing folks rave about (though mostly 1/32) guys, called Inox MX3. Probably only related in that their names tout their ability to fight oxidization. Long and interesting thread on it in another slot related forum. 

I'm still not settled on any one cleaning routine yet, but it's getting clearer to me that what I think I'm looking for: something that doesn't deplete the plastic, repels dust without being slippery to tire compounds, picks up the oil and metal debris from cars and enhances the rail's ability to conduct to the pickup shoe while fighting the rail's strong propensity oxidize and otherwise build up crud. Also, I figure if you can reduce shoe-devouring friction without reducing pickup shoe electrical transfer, that'd be pretty sweet, too. 

I think I'll try the DeoxIT bcs as an electrical contact enhancer with lubrication qualities, it sounds like it's right up our alley, and of course your having significant (over a year?) of good experience with it is mighty compelling, too.

As a future possibility, I'd also be interested in anyone's experiences with Inox on 1/64 track, too. It'd be nice to know if any of the "transformational" bennies that the 1/32 crowd has reported would translate to users of Tomy or other sectional plastic track.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

My DeoxIT pen arrived today. Part# D100P. Looking forward to trying it out!


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## Tsooko (Oct 15, 2009)

I have recently tried out the Inox on my routed track with good results, but it is not a silver bullet. 
I put it on with a q-tip and wiped it off with a paper towel. There was a bit of black crud on the q-tip, dirt from the rails? The cars seem to run smoother with less arcing and don't seem to find places to stall as before. In the long term? Don't know yet. Since I don't have a timing system, I can't say that the cars are any faster like the 1/32 guys say.

I have used the nail smoothing block that Sir Slots 'a' Lot recommends with good results. It leaves no mess to clean up like the eraser block the train guys use.

Cheers Ted


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Thanks, Ted. If I can find some Inox around locally, maybe I'll do two lanes in DeoxIT and the other two in Inox MX3. Maybe I'll learn something of use. If it becomes too much of a drag to get the Inox, I'll do it all with DeoxIT. 

Thanks for sharing your experience. It's very helpful.


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