# Taking my time on my B-9 build



## teslabe

http://store.bigdawgspromo.com/product_info.php?cPath=485&products_id=12970

Just been doing some prep work till all my parts get here. China just finished their New Years Holidays so parts are taking their sweet time getting here.
But one thing I did get done is the sound system for the old boy. I used an MP3 player for the background relay clicks on a two hour loop and two "bigDAWGS" BARE USB 5-BUTTON MULTIPUSH - 200 sec Sound player for his voice, at $13.00 each, you can't beat them, plus they have their own built-in batteries.... Adding an Orange LED or two for the Neon effect is as easy as putting it and a current limit resistor across the speaker output. The video will show the effect.


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## teslabe

Sorry, I forgot to post a closeup picture of a simple LED hookup. The LED's Anode (+) goes
on the + output and the Cathode (-) on the - output, I used a 200 ohm resistor for the LED. I don't recommend using more them two LEDs.


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## Al Loew

Teslabe, that audio syncing of the robot voice and chest panel is excellent! Great work, and thanks for sharing.


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## starseeker

That is hilarious! I'm deep down with a head/chest cold (and it's -24C outside as I type this) and that has made me laugh for the first time in days. Which leads to more coughing, but it was well worth it. Those quotes are priceless. 

Brilliant work, as always! Taking your time when modelling usually leads to wonderful things and this is a definite case in point, if not the ultimate example. Thanks for sharing this! I still can't imagine putting a voice on mine but already am getting ideas for other projects. 

Will happily wait as long as it takes to see more. Wow, Teslabe!


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## rogercorey1

*Amplifier:*

What did you use for the audio power amplifier on your mp3 player ??
I build most of all my LED lighting kits,
Never tried to add sound, thanks for the heads up.


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## Fernando Mureb

Teslabe.

Outstanding as always!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thank you so much for the tips and pictures.

If you don't mind, could you post one or two more pictures detailing the circuit to synchronizing sound and light? Thanks.


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe. 

Reviewing a post of yours in my thread (page 9, post # 130), I was wondering how are you going to:

1) lighting the 10 control buttons, since you will have the 10 push buttons plate just behind of the chest holes; and,

2) make the kit's clear buttons move in and out, to act over the push buttons.

Thanks.


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## rondenning

And where did you get the good clean audio tracks? I especially want the crush, kill, destroy one for my build, but haven't been able to locate it!!
I will be following your build thread, hopefully I can figure out how you made the mouth circuit work off the speaker, I was thinking this was possible but lack the know-how to figure it out on my own!!!!:freak:
Ron


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## Steve244

How many hours of watching _Lost in Space_ did it take to get those sound clips? I'm worried about you. Impressed, but worried.


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## StarshipClass

Fantastic work! 

Great choice of quotes!


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## teslabe

Al Loew said:


> Teslabe, that audio syncing of the robot voice and chest panel is excellent! Great work, and thanks for sharing.


Thank you very much..... It's easy to get good syncing when the LED's are controlled by the audio......:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

starseeker said:


> That is hilarious! I'm deep down with a head/chest cold (and it's -24C outside as I type this) and that has made me laugh for the first time in days. Which leads to more coughing, but it was well worth it. Those quotes are priceless.
> 
> Brilliant work, as always! Taking your time when modelling usually leads to wonderful things and this is a definite case in point, if not the ultimate example. Thanks for sharing this! I still can't imagine putting a voice on mine but already am getting ideas for other projects.
> 
> Will happily wait as long as it takes to see more. Wow, Teslabe!


Happy to put a smile on your face my friend....:wave: Thank you for the encouragement, it really helps, some of my post lately seem to get a lot of views, but little conversation, not sure why, but..... I hope you feel better soon......


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## teslabe

rogercorey1 said:


> What did you use for the audio power amplifier on your mp3 player ??
> I build most of all my LED lighting kits,
> Never tried to add sound, thanks for the heads up.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-PAM840..._Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item1e8636e501
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pieces-2-...mplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item4d0cdaf450

Hope this helps, feel free to ask questions if you need more info. Here a look
at the back side of the MP3 player.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe.
> 
> Outstanding as always!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> Thank you so much for the tips and pictures.
> 
> If you don't mind, could you post one or two more pictures detailing the circuit to synchronizing sound and light? Thanks.


Thank you soooo very much Fernando, it's very humbling.....
I hope this video helps answer your question....:wave:


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> And where did you get the good clean audio tracks? I especially want the crush, kill, destroy one for my build, but haven't been able to locate it!!
> I will be following your build thread, hopefully I can figure out how you made the mouth circuit work off the speaker, I was thinking this was possible but lack the know-how to figure it out on my own!!!!:freak:
> Ron


I bought this CD from the B-9 Builders website many years ago.


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## teslabe

Steve244 said:


> How many hours of watching _Lost in Space_ did it take to get those sound clips? I'm worried about you. Impressed, but worried.


I cheated, look at my previous post.....


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## teslabe

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Fantastic work!
> 
> Great choice of quotes!


Thank you very much..... I just love this kit.....:thumbsup:


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## xsavoie

Simply fantastic about the voice perfectly sync to the flickering light.The light reacting to the sound seem to be the best way to accomplish that perfect sync.Great lines on the talking menu.Danger,danger Will Robinson would be a great addition to the talking menu.:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe.
> 
> Reviewing a post of yours in my thread (page 9, post # 130), I was wondering how are you going to:
> 
> 1) lighting the 10 control buttons, since you will have the 10 push buttons plate just behind of the chest holes; and,
> 
> 2) make the kit's clear buttons move in and out, to act over the push buttons.
> 
> Thanks.


The plan is to epoxy 0603 SMD LEDs onto the holes I drilled in the back of
the buttons, making a 90deg bend right at the top of the button. Then add
the epoxy high enough to allow filing to make even contact on all the push
button switches. The travel will come from the switches themselves. Stay 
tuned.....:wave:


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## woof359

*sounds files*

i got a ton of B9 robots sounds files in a folder, how can i share them ?


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## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> I bought this CD from the B-9 Builders website many years ago.


My grandmother always said: a provident man is worth by four.


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## Fernando Mureb

[IMG-LEFT][/IMG-LEFT]


teslabe said:


> The plan is to epoxy 0603 SMD LEDs onto the holes I drilled in the back of
> the buttons, making a 90deg bend right at the top of the button. Then add
> the epoxy high enough to allow filing to make even contact on all the push
> button switches. The travel will come from the switches themselves. Stay
> tuned.....:wave:


Teslabe, I don't have the kit in hands, so I have to ask you: did you cast loose buttons to replace the kit part or did you cut them off from the piece and rebuild their backs with clear styren?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> did you cast loose buttons to replace the kit part or did you cut them off from the piece and rebuild their backs with clear styren?


They are from the kit, all I did was cut them and drill out the bottom.


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## teslabe

Fernando,
Did my video in post #14 help with your question on adding an LED to the $13.00 sound card
I posted????


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## Fernando Mureb

Oh, YES!! Thank you again! It was very kind of you.:thumbsup:

Mind you, I had missed your post, don't ask me how! Sorry.

It's so simple. I thought it would involve rocket science, somehow.:wave:


PS: It is always simple, since you know how!


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## Fernando Mureb

Another question, eh, eh, eh 

You certainly have already tested fit the clear buttons into the holes, right? Did they slide firmly towards the push buttons? I mean, is the thickness of the chest plate enough to avoid the buttons to stay a bit loose?

Thanks.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Another question, eh, eh, eh
> 
> You certainly have already tested fit the clear buttons into the holes, right? Did they slide firmly towards the push buttons? I mean, is the thickness of the chest plate enough to avoid the buttons to stay a bit loose?
> 
> Thanks.


There was some flash to clean out but the buttons move freely.


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## teslabe

The last thing I did this weekend was add standoffs to help with the weak
knee hinges....:freak:


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## teslabe

xsavoie said:


> Simply fantastic about the voice perfectly sync to the flickering light.The light reacting to the sound seem to be the best way to accomplish that perfect sync.Great lines on the talking menu.Danger,danger Will Robinson would be a great addition to the talking menu.:thumbsup:


It just seemed the right way to do the effect....


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## DCH10664

I've been looking forward to you building this kit, and hoping you would share it with us. Of course, most of the electronic stuff I don't understand. As my knowledge of electronics would safely fit inside Dr. Smith's heart,....if he had one. But still it's great watching someone so skilled building something I love as much as this B-9. 
Thanks for sharing your build with us. :thumbsup: :wave:


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## starseeker

So frustrating - the kit still hasn't reached the Canadian tundra. So I don't know if or why the knee joints need strengthening. Unless, those belts at the edge of the photo. He's not going to talk And walk, is he?


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## rondenning

Thanks teslabe!
You used a 200 ohm resistor? Just one on the positive side? Or do you need one for each led??
I just ordered some red-orange leds and I am going to try this!!!:thumbsup:
Ron


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## rondenning

Oooops! Forgot to ask: I will be useing Liteon LTL-93BKAKZS Red/Orange SMD led's for the voicebox lights, and Osram Micro SMT SMD LWL88S White surface mount Micro SCD80 led's inside the brain for the eyes. Will these led's need the 200 ohm resistors or 100 ohm resistors, and do they only need one resistor on the positive side, or one resistor for each led bulb? I am planning on useing 4 to 6 of the red/orange leds for the voicebox lights, will that be too many of these small leds for me to power from the speaker like you have done here??
Thanks for helping those of us with less knowledge in this area!!!!:thumbsup:
Ron


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## Fernando Mureb

DCH10664 said:


> I've been looking forward to you building this kit, and hoping you would share it with us. Of course, most of the electronic stuff I don't understand. *As my knowledge of electronics would safely fit inside Dr. Smith's heart,....if he had one.* But still it's great watching someone so skilled building something I love as much as this B-9.
> Thanks for sharing your build with us. :thumbsup: :wave:


LOL. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

I SAW RUBBER TREADS IN THIS PICTURE!!!! :woohoo:


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> I SAW RUBBER TREADS IN THIS PICTURE!!!! :woohoo:


I sense greatness...


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## rondenning

teslabe, I saw one of your pictures in a different b9 thread with small chip leds in the finger lights, and wires for them coming out the back, and I am trying to get some of the small enameled armature wire (magnet wire) on evil-bay. I am wondering what size (gauge) the wire in your photo was, and if there is a difference in the color of the enamel paint on the wires? Or is it just different colors from different manufacturer's?
Sorry for so many questions, I greatly appreciate the help you give all of us who are less savy!!
Thanks,
Ron


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## starseeker

I get mine at:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/34-AWG-Gauge...537?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8a74fb81
from their .com store, rather than EBay, because if you live in Canada the EBay Global Shipping so rips off international customers. If you're in the US, then their EBay store is perfect. As far as I've ever discovered, no one in Canada sells magnet wire. ??

I use different colors so I call tell positive from negative, etc. About 34 AWG is what you'd want to use. Wire color is just cosmetic. 
There's a great tutorial on soldering 402 smds here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gNPy9AsrVg
They're smaller than the 305s (hence the 40AWG wire he uses) but the principles are the same. Instead of the tweezers, you can stick them down onto double sided tape.


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## teslabe

DCH10664 said:


> I've been looking forward to you building this kit, and hoping you would share it with us. Of course, most of the electronic stuff I don't understand. As my knowledge of electronics would safely fit inside Dr. Smith's heart,....if he had one. But still it's great watching someone so skilled building something I love as much as this B-9.
> Thanks for sharing your build with us. :thumbsup: :wave:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Flash...741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1f1543cd

Thank you..... There are very simple ways to light the old boy, I'm using these flashing LEDs for the 12 lights at the bottom of the chest plate, you can see five of them running in the video from post #14. Feel free to ask questions if you'd like......:wave:


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## teslabe

starseeker said:


> So frustrating - the kit still hasn't reached the Canadian tundra. So I don't know if or why the knee joints need strengthening. Unless, those belts at the edge of the photo. He's not going to talk And walk, is he?


Is it the Post Office that's taking so long?????? As for the belts you think you 
saw in that photo I think you're still under the weather and just imagining things. I don't remember any belts in my picture.
I hope you feel better soon......


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> Thanks teslabe!
> You used a 200 ohm resistor? Just one on the positive side? Or do you need one for each led??
> I just ordered some red-orange leds and I am going to try this!!!:thumbsup:
> Ron


http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

I used 180 ohms in the robot neon effect. I have one on each LED, it's never good to use one for all the LEDs in your circuit. I think the 200 ohm was just there when I did the video. To determine the best value for your circuit it's 
best to use an LED calculator.


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> Oooops! Forgot to ask: I will be useing Liteon LTL-93BKAKZS Red/Orange SMD led's for the voicebox lights, and Osram Micro SMT SMD LWL88S White surface mount Micro SCD80 led's inside the brain for the eyes. Will these led's need the 200 ohm resistors or 100 ohm resistors, and do they only need one resistor on the positive side, or one resistor for each led bulb? I am planning on useing 4 to 6 of the red/orange leds for the voicebox lights, will that be too many of these small leds for me to power from the speaker like you have done here??
> Thanks for helping those of us with less knowledge in this area!!!!:thumbsup:
> Ron


You need to know the LED's forward voltage and current, along with the supply voltage (what you plan to power them with) to get the right resistor value, use the LED Calculator posted in my last post....:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I SAW RUBBER TREADS IN THIS PICTURE!!!! :woohoo:


Fernando, I think you're coming down with the same bug that starseeker has, 
he thought he saw belts too......


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## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> I sense greatness...



I'm embarrassed no end........ Thank you.....

P.S. I'll talk more about the belts when all the parts get here.....


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> teslabe, I saw one of your pictures in a different b9 thread with small chip leds in the finger lights, and wires for them coming out the back, and I am trying to get some of the small enameled armature wire (magnet wire) on evil-bay. I am wondering what size (gauge) the wire in your photo was, and if there is a difference in the color of the enamel paint on the wires? Or is it just different colors from different manufacturer's?
> Sorry for so many questions, I greatly appreciate the help you give all of us who are less savy!!
> Thanks,
> Ron


starseeker got the wire gauge correct, I used 34AWG Mag-Wire on my finger lights and the rest of his post is correct.....:thumbsup:


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## rondenning

Thanks guys, your the best!!!!
I am off to figure it out, I was getting 32 gauge, but will go with the 34 recommended thanks. I figured colors were just for your own use when wireing something,just wanted to check, again thanks!
I am going to make this work!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
Thanks again!
Ron


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## actias

Awesome work! How many LED's did you use for your orange neon voice light and where did you place the LED's in relation to the clear rows?


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## Seaview

starseeker said:


> That is hilarious! I'm deep down with a head/chest cold (and it's -24C outside as I type this) and that has made me laugh for the first time in days. Which leads to more coughing, but it was well worth it. Those quotes are priceless.
> 
> Brilliant work, as always! ...Will happily wait as long as it takes to see more. Wow, Teslabe!




:thumbsup: I couldn't agree more; those quotes are PERFECT!!!! :wave:


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## DCH10664

actias said:


> Awesome work! How many LED's did you use for your orange neon voice light and where did you place the LED's in relation to the clear rows?


I would also like to know exactly how he arranged the voice lights and got it to look so perfect. I seen no hot spots at all.


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## Fernando Mureb

actias said:


> Awesome work! How many LED's did you use for your orange neon voice light and where did you place the LED's in relation to the clear rows?





DCH10664 said:


> I would also like to know exactly how he arranged the voice lights and got it to look so perfect. I seen no hot spots at all.


See the posts on page 1. :wave:


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## teslabe

actias said:


> Awesome work! How many LED's did you use for your orange neon voice light and where did you place the LED's in relation to the clear rows?


I used ten 3mm orange LEDs, three on both sides and four on the back, about 1/8" above the floor of the box. Now, to use that many LEDs with the sound
card I had to add a Solid State Relay to handle the load, about 200ma. It's an easy mod....


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## teslabe

DCH10664 said:


> I would also like to know exactly how he arranged the voice lights and got it to look so perfect. I seen no hot spots at all.


I used a Polyester pad and filled it till it look right.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> See the posts on page 1. :wave:


Thanks Fernando....:wave:


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## teslabe

Seaview said:


> :thumbsup: I couldn't agree more; those quotes are PERFECT!!!! :wave:


That's funny, I never gave any thought to what files I loaded for the video,
glad you got a chuckle out them.....:wave:


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## OzyMandias

teslabe, that lighting and sound is AMAZING! The 'neon' flickers just the way the genuine article did in the Robot itself. Well done Sir, Kudos!

I'm tearing my hair out trying to find my CD audio archive discs which are packed with some Eye Lenses, a torso knob, and a Radar Collar section. Can't seem to find my side panels and knee plates either...


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## teslabe

OzyMandias said:


> teslabe, that lighting and sound is AMAZING! The 'neon' flickers just the way the genuine article did in the Robot itself. Well done Sir, Kudos!


Thank you very much for the kind words.....:wave: It's such an easy mod to 
do and not that expensive.


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## actias

Thanks teslabe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:


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## rondenning

teslabe thanks for sharing how to do this!! I really appreciate it!!
So, the 200ma solid state relay is kinda like a power booster? 
I will be useing 8-10 led's in the mouth unit on my build, along with the same usb sound card, so this relay should also work for me. Does it solder in between the speaker and led's?
Where did you get the relay, a quik search on evil-bay turned up no results??
Still waiting for the sound cards I ordered, the led's, and a couple of other parts and paints I have ordered to arrive to get under way on this build(and hopefully paulbo's photo-etch soon?), and I am chomping at the bit to get 'er done!!
Thanks again for the help - your work is stellar!:thumbsup:
Ron


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## rogercorey1

*Voice box:*

I got mine from igi-Key.com
Hope its the right one..


Digi-Key Part Number TLP3123F-ND


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## rogercorey1

*voice box, ps*

I believe you will need two,
One for each sound card..


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## rtbeuke

Teslabe, where did you find the mp3 player you used? It appears to have a memory card slot?


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## rondenning

Thanks rogercorey1, just ordered 3! I will be useing 1 of the soundcards teslabe showed at the beginning of this thread (the ones I got are the 200 sec. usb single button cards-plays one recorded phrase everytime the button is pushed). I have 3 b9 kits, so got 3 cards. I was going to do 1 b9 oob build, but they are so nice I decided to light them all!:thumbsup:
Ron


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> teslabe thanks for sharing how to do this!! I really appreciate it!!
> So, the 200ma solid state relay is kinda like a power booster?
> I will be useing 8-10 led's in the mouth unit on my build, along with the same usb sound card, so this relay should also work for me. Does it solder in between the speaker and led's?
> Where did you get the relay, a quik search on evil-bay turned up no results??
> Still waiting for the sound cards I ordered, the led's, and a couple of other parts and paints I have ordered to arrive to get under way on this build(and hopefully paulbo's photo-etch soon?), and I am chomping at the bit to get 'er done!!
> Thanks again for the help - your work is stellar!:thumbsup:
> Ron


Ron, it is called a Photorelay, kind-of a Photocoupler but one that can handle 
1 amp @ 32 volts. max. I need to ask if you have any electronic experience and are a good solderer? This part is small and the leads can be easily pulled of the device if you are not very careful with it. Also the output of the sound card CAN NOT be tied to any other point on the board, like the ground, you'll blow the output......:drunk: You will need a 150 ohm resistor on the Anode
of the relay (pin 1) or you'll blow it out. One last thing I would suggest is to put a switch on the pull-out contact, so you can turn the sound card off when not in use. When you get all your parts ask question before you start and you have little problem getting it together....:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

rtbeuke said:


> Teslabe, where did you find the mp3 player you used? It appears to have a memory card slot?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Clip-M...5302?pt=Other_MP3_Players&hash=item258614ba46

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10063

Here you go. Now, I did a lot of modding to it, like remove it from it's case,
add a 3.3volt regulator, add the power amp and a 5 position micro joy switch to control all it's functions, I may use the robot's microphone as the switches top. You can just use it as is, it will start playing as soon as you turn it on.


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## Chrisisall

Teslabe, tell us. Are you planning to make your Robot walk by RC?

We must know...


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## rondenning

teslabe, my electronics experience is limited, but I do a fair job of soldering. I will be asking more questions when all the parts are here. I will specifically need to know exactly where to solder what! The relay looks alot more doable than some of the micro leds I just received in the mail!!! :freak: 
They are so very tiny, I will have to really practice to be able to solder them to the wires, but that's why I got 100 of each! I have watched the video posted at the beginning of this thread on soldering smd led's, and the guy in the vid has it down! Hope I can get that good. (the smd led's I got are for my J2, not for the robot build, if I need light sources that small for the robot I will use fiber optics)( I will be useing 3mm red - orange, or just orange, led's for the robots neon mouth lights) I think I can do it, I will be making 3 soundcard/mouth synced led set-ups in all, and I am hoping to do all 3 at the same time, to cut down on screw ups! Once I do 1, the other 2 should be no problem.
Thanks for all your help!
Ron


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## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Teslabe, tell us. Are you planning to make your Robot walk by RC?
> 
> We must know...


Yes, that's my goal, I'll post more when all the parts get here, stay tuned.....:wave:


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> I have watched the video posted at the beginning of this thread on soldering smd led's, and the guy in the vid has it down!


Ron, If you mean the video at the beginning of this very thread, that is me.....


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## rondenning

The youtube video in post #38. I think starseeker posted it , its a tutorial about soldering 402 smds I believe. Was it you? 
Ron


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## teslabe

rondenning said:


> The youtube video in post #38. I think starseeker posted it , its a tutorial about soldering 402 smds I believe. Was it you?
> Ron


I missed that video, it has some good info and as I've always pointed out,
you must have extra flux for any good solder work, even more important
when working with SMD components....:thumbsup:


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## Lou Dalmaso

Teslabe,
I've got to say you are really putting the TLC to this kit!

I've no doubt that with your skills, you'll have this kit running more like an actual robot that the original suit did.

any thoughts on actuating the bubble up and down?

keep up the stellar work. you are an inspiration


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## actias

And THANKS for sharing the how-to info Teslabe! Just this one project has inspired me on how to do some of my other projects using this same info. I already bought the parts. Maybe a diagram on where to solder what to what, would be helpful. Or even easier for you (I know you are busy and have your own work to worry about) a series of photos that show connections so the reader can copy. I am an electronic repair tech for Cochlears' hearing implant processors. But I'm not an engineer that can figure out what electronic components to add where in order to modify and merge 2 unrelated pcb units together, using my own calculations. Thanks for all your help and sharing


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## rondenning

teslabe said:


> I bought this CD from the B-9 Builders website many years ago.


My cd should be here Saturday!! 
Ron


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## Fernando Mureb

Teslabe!

Thank you for share your wisdom in electronics with us simple mortals. :thumbsup:


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## starseeker

It's always exciting when we don't hear from Teslabe for long periods. It means he's cooking up something amazing.


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## Chrisisall

starseeker said:


> It's always exciting when we don't hear from Teslabe for long periods. It means he's cooking up something amazing.


Oh, he just gets off on doing stuff NO ONE else could possibly do is all... :thumbsup:


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## rondenning

Ok, waiting on the last couple things I need (liquid flux, .032 rosin core solder) to arrive, and I am ready to start on this!!!
When I check the voltage coming from the board to the speaker it shows 4.66 or so as the highest value when the robots voice is playing. Is this the value I use as the power supply voltage in the led array wizard to get the resistor value I need?
That shows source voltage = 4.66, forward voltage = 2.1, forward current = 30 mA, number of led's = 10 (for the orange/red led's I am using). The wizard shows 5 rows of 2 led's each connected + to - with a 18 ohm resistor wired between the led negative to the source negative, for 5 resistors each at 18 ohm. With one resistor for every 2 led's, instead of 1 resistor for each led. Is that correct?
As soon as the flux and solder arrive(mostly waiting for the flux, as I have some .032 solder), I will be ready to install the photorelay, and then wire in the led's to the same spots on the board the speaker wires come from? 
The photorelay will require that I see exactly where to solder it on the board.
I agree with actias, I believe I have the ability to do this, I am lacking the knowledge of which components to use.:freak:
Thanks again man! I am practicing my soldering in anticipation!!
Ron


----------



## rondenning

Forgot - I am also waiting to go to Radio Shack for resistors, until I have the circuit figured out and know which ones to get.
Seperate question - can I hook these boards up to a 9volt battery? I will be useing 1 board and speaker in one robot build to give him just his voice, and in the other build I will be useing 2 boards to get both the voice on one, and the robots background sounds on the other. What will I need to hook one board to a 9 volt, and what for hooking 2 boards up to the 9 volt?
Thanks!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Ron


----------



## teslabe

rondenning said:


> Ok, waiting on the last couple things I need (liquid flux, .032 rosin core solder) to arrive, and I am ready to start on this!!!
> When I check the voltage coming from the board to the speaker it shows 4.66 or so as the highest value when the robots voice is playing. Is this the value I use as the power supply voltage in the led array wizard to get the resistor value I need?
> That shows source voltage = 4.66, forward voltage = 2.1, forward current = 30 mA, number of led's = 10 (for the orange/red led's I am using). The wizard shows 5 rows of 2 led's each connected + to - with a 18 ohm resistor wired between the led negative to the source negative, for 5 resistors each at 18 ohm. With one resistor for every 2 led's, instead of 1 resistor for each led. Is that correct?
> As soon as the flux and solder arrive(mostly waiting for the flux, as I have some .032 solder), I will be ready to install the photorelay, and then wire in the led's to the same spots on the board the speaker wires come from?
> The photorelay will require that I see exactly where to solder it on the board.
> I agree with actias, I believe I have the ability to do this, I am lacking the knowledge of which components to use.:freak:
> Thanks again man! I am practicing my soldering in anticipation!!
> Ron


First, the LEDs for the neon effect do not get hooked up to the speaker terminals if you're driving more then two LEDs, they hook up to "switched" side of the relay (pins 3,4). The control side (pins 1,2) get hooked to the speaker terminals, "+" to pin 1 with a resistor in series, "-" to pin 2, it's forward voltage is 1.33volts and 10ma. I choose a 120ohm resistor, I want to keep the current to the relay low. Make sure you never connect ether side of the amp's output to ground, you'll blow it out......:drunk: The resistor needs to be small like a 1/8watt, 1/4watt will be too big. Be sure you know what you're doing or you're going to blow out the boards....


----------



## teslabe

rondenning said:


> Forgot - I am also waiting to go to Radio Shack for resistors, until I have the circuit figured out and know which ones to get.
> Seperate question - can I hook these boards up to a 9volt battery? I will be useing 1 board and speaker in one robot build to give him just his voice, and in the other build I will be useing 2 boards to get both the voice on one, and the robots background sounds on the other. What will I need to hook one board to a 9 volt, and what for hooking 2 boards up to the 9 volt?
> Thanks!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
> Ron


These boards run off 4.5-5.0 volts. If you what to run them off a 9 volt battery you will need to add a +5volt regulator.


----------



## rondenning

It looks like a 1/8 watt 120 ohm 0805 chip resistor?? They are instock at digikey. I will order some tomorrow. Still looking for the +5 volt regulator.
Thanks, 
Ron


----------



## teslabe

rondenning said:


> It looks like a 1/8 watt 120 ohm 0805 chip resistor?? They are instock at digikey. I will order some tomorrow. Still looking for the +5 volt regulator.
> Thanks,
> Ron


http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LM1117DTX-5.0/NOPB/LM1117DTX-5.0/NOPBCT-ND/3526816

You could also use a 1206 1/8 or 1/4 watt SMD resistor, my comment about a 1/4 watt being too big was refering to an axial leaded part, SMD 1/4 watt would work fine. This is the regulator I used, it's a fixed output of 5 volts, hope this helps.....:wave:


----------



## rondenning

teslabe said:


> First, the LEDs for the neon effect do not get hooked up to the speaker terminals if you're driving more then two LEDs, they hook up to "switched" side of the relay (pins 3,4). The control side (pins 1,2) get hooked to the speaker terminals, "+" to pin 1 with a resistor in series, "-" to pin 2, it's forward voltage is 1.33volts and 10ma. I choose a 120ohm resistor, I want to keep the current to the relay low. Make sure you never connect ether side of the amp's output to ground, you'll blow it out......:drunk: The resistor needs to be small like a 1/8watt, 1/4watt will be too big. Be sure you know what you're doing or you're going to blow out the boards....


I have both the 5 volt regulator and the 120 ohm 0805 resistors in my cart at digikey, now I am trying to figure the resistors for the voicebox leds. Is the 1.33volts the voltage coming out of the relay to the leds, and would then be my source voltage in the led array wizard? That doesn't work, the wiz. says I will need a higher source voltage to light up the led's.
Or do I use the 4.66 volts I got from the speaker terminals (I got this value useing a volt meter on the speaker terminals when playing a robot phrase, while the voltage was variable the 4.66 was the highest reading) when the robot talks? Useing the 4.66 volts the wiz says I will need 5 resistors at 18 ohms each, with 1 resistor for every 2 leds when useing 10 or 12 led's.
Ron


----------



## teslabe

rondenning said:


> I have both the 5 volt regulator and the 120 ohm 0805 resistors in my cart at digikey, now I am trying to figure the resistors for the voicebox leds. Is the 1.33volts the voltage coming out of the relay to the leds, and would then be my source voltage in the led array wizard? That doesn't work, the wiz. says I will need a higher source voltage to light up the led's.
> Or do I use the 4.66 volts I got from the speaker terminals (I got this value useing a volt meter on the speaker terminals when playing a robot phrase, while the voltage was variable the 4.66 was the highest reading) when the robot talks? Useing the 4.66 volts the wiz says I will need 5 resistors at 18 ohms each, with 1 resistor for every 2 leds when useing 10 or 12 led's.
> Ron


The forward voltage of 1.33v is for the LED inside the relay, it's what turns on the FET on the output of the relay, look at the data sheet I posted in #51. Forget about the 4.66 volts your meter saw, it means nothing, you can't measure the voltage on an amps output with a volt meter, you need a scope.
even then it's not what you should be powering your LEDs with for the neon effect, that should be the power you're using for the robot. The point of the relay is to give you the higher current through the relay and main power, not the output of the sound card directly. I think you may be out of your comfort zone with this mod, the questions you're asking tell me that you may not totally understand the circuit. I'd hate to see you blow out the sound card or relay.


----------



## DCH10664

Teslabe, PM sent. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Rondenning and Teslabe.

This question/answer sequence of posts was very helpful!

Thank you! :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> This question/answer sequence of posts was very helpful!


Very powerful Teslabe is. Strong with the electronics is he.:thumbsup:


----------



## WEAPON X

Awesome looking build details. Thank you for sharing! ~ Ben G. :thumbsup:


----------



## rondenning

Sorry, I haven't had time to post a reply!
You are right, I am doing 2 different builds here, the first will use 2 orange led's connected to the speaker outputs on the board.
I was confuseing that with the the second, in which I will attemp to copy the voicebox circuit you have created, and did not think of it useing a different power supply, which will be okay, as I want to make the board run from a 9v battery which should work fine for the voicebox as well. Yes, it is outside my normal zone, which is exactly why I want to try it! I do not have the electronics experience to create this on my own, which is why I greatly appreciate you showing me how here! If I fry a board, I will get another and try again, but, I am confident that I can do this by copying what you have done. I am very good at assembly, and detail work, and believe that while I might not understand what each component does exactly, I can follow directions and assemble this correctly useing the same basic components. My boards are different from the one you are useing as they only have one push button that will make the robot say each phrase in turn when the button is pressed.
So, the photo relay is simply connecting the voicebox leds to the speaker so that they work in synch with the pulse of energy to the speaker that creates sound from it. It will enable the leds to work wth the audio in intensity, duration of flash, etc., with the sound from the speaker? 
I was not thinking of you mentioning in the beginning that you can only use 1 or 2 led's if connected directly to the speaker output on the board!
I haven't had time to in the last few days, but now that I have all the necessary components and materials/supplies, I will go back to the start on this thread and reread everything and see what I missed on hooking up the relay to the led's and their power supply.
I really appreciate your help and sharing your design on how to do this! And I will try not to let you down!
Ron


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Rondenning and Teslabe.
> 
> This question/answer sequence of posts was very helpful!
> 
> Thank you! :thumbsup:


Hope it helps....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Very powerful Teslabe is. Strong with the electronics is he.:thumbsup:


Hay..... I'm not that short or that green, am I ??????


----------



## teslabe

Sorry for the long pause, but my "9 to 5" has been taking up most of my time, I did get some work done on the track mod, also got most of the lighting in the brain, hope to post more pics of that this weekend....:wave:


----------



## rowdylex

You are the 'Master' of modelling. 

As always, it is a sheer delight to see what mods you come up with, and I can't wait to see it in all its glory.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*I knew it!!!!!!!!!!*:woohoo:


----------



## ThingMaker

teslabe said:


> Sorry for the long pause, but my "9 to 5" has been taking up most of my time, I did get some work done on the track mod, also got most of the lighting in the brain, hope to post more pics of that this weekend....:wave:
> 
> Moebius B 9 Track test - YouTube


Looks great! Where did you find the treads?


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe!

Did you have to machining metal gears, or did you print them on your 3D printer? 

And what about the boxes of the engines? Did you buy them, print them, or build them from scratch? 

Not forgetting the rubber tracks. How did you manage to find such a perfect model?


----------



## Chrisisall

Oh, that's just SICK!! Holy crap, Batman!
I gotta lie down.


----------



## teslabe

rowdylex said:


> You are the 'Master' of modelling.


Master?????:freak: Not even close....... I appreciate so very much your kind words.....:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> Master?????:freak: Not even close....... I appreciate so very much your kind words.....:wave:


You're right. "Wizard" would be more precise.:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> *I knew it!!!!!!!!!!*:woohoo:


Fernando, you have to promise not to tell anyone, it's a secret......


----------



## teslabe

ThingMaker said:


> Looks great! Where did you find the treads?


http://www.shop.polybelt.com/120XL031-Black-Rubber-Belt-60-Tooth-B120XL031BNG.htm

Thank you, they are timing belts turned inside out.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe!
> 
> Did you have to machining metal gears, or did you print them on your 3D printer?
> 
> And what about the boxes of the engines? Did you buy them, print them, or build them from scratch?
> 
> Not forgetting the rubber tracks. How did you manage to find such a perfect model?


Everything I used is "off the shelf".....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Oh, that's just SICK!! Holy crap, Batman!
> I gotta lie down.


Now I just feel bad, I'll remove the post...


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> You're right. "Wizard" would be more precise.:thumbsup:


I did pull a rabbit out of my pants, once....


----------



## teslabe

I read in another thread a conversation about the molded screws on the upper torso for the mounting plate for the "Lifting Eyes", I found these and they look pretty good IMHO, what do you all think?


----------



## kdaracal

Putting the motorized tracks to the side for a moment: How the "H E double toothpicks" did you mask the brain so perfectly? Please give a demo of _THAT_!!

Also, the tracks are a great, cheap idea, even if you _DON'T_ motorize them. It is just way more detailed than plastic!! 

*But please:* give the secret up about how you masked those small hieroglyphs

I can barely SEE them!!


----------



## kdaracal

teslabe said:


> I did pull a rabbit out of my pants, once....


After watching the vid, I had to change my pants. After I woke up from passing out...


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> what do you all think?


A bit of overkill in the detail department, but what the hay!:thumbsup:


----------



## kdaracal

Chrisisall said:


> A bit of overkill in the detail department, but what the hay!:thumbsup:


I'd forgot Depends were required when clicking on teslabe's threads. 

Sheesh


----------



## Chrisisall

kdaracal said:


> I'd forgot Depends were required when clicking on teslabe's threads.
> 
> Sheesh


I generally pee _before_ I check his posts.:thumbsup:


----------



## Seaview

Holy crap!!!!


----------



## ThingMaker

teslabe said:


> I read in another thread a conversation about the molded screws on the upper torso for the mounting plate for the "Lifting Eyes", I found these and they look pretty good IMHO, what do you all think?


Awesome! You're giving us all great ideas. You're going to have to post a list of links where you found those bolts too!


----------



## kdaracal

The best way I could think of to mask the hieroglyphs was to place random, leftover vinyl masks from AztakDummy (TOS Enterprise set) around and hope for the best. I'm glad I waited to paint it, though. I'd love to do it like teslab's...


----------



## teslabe

kdaracal said:


> How the "H E double toothpicks" did you mask the brain so perfectly? Please give a demo of _THAT_!!
> *But please:* give the secret up about how you masked those small hieroglyphs
> 
> I can barely SEE them!!


Well..... I use one of these.....


----------



## teslabe

I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that I used "Bare-Metal" foil on the brain.


----------



## kdaracal

teslabe said:


> Well..... I use one of these.....


But just yellow tape and a razor knife? Or liquid masking?


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> Well..... I use one of these.....


Damned scientist/wizard. No wonder you leave us all in the dust.

Full Metal Teslabe.:lol:


----------



## kdaracal

teslabe said:


> I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that I used "Bare-Metal" foil on the brain.


Brilliant idea. I'd forgot about that! :wave:

Thanks!


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Damned scientist/wizard. No wonder you leave us all in the dust.
> 
> Full Metal Teslabe.:lol:


My eyes have gotten so bad and I use a microscope at work, that I had to get one for my hobby room, I'm lost without it.......:freak:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> My eyes have gotten so bad


Not far behind you there, bro. Still you amaze us all!!!


----------



## Dave in RI

Chrisisall said:


> Damned scientist/wizard. No wonder you leave us all in the dust.
> 
> Full Metal Teslabe.:lol:



Looks more like a laboratory than a workbench.....how sad it is that my workbench consists of a newspaper over a TV tray...


----------



## Fiver

This is FANTASTIC work!!! 

I'm totally impressed and inspired! I just posted a similar question on another thread but given the rest of this build...it applies here: Are you going to do anything special for the arms? Say...some method of creating working arms that extend and retract accurately to the prop? I've been puzzling and puzzling until my puzzler is sore and I haven't been able to come up with anything that doesn't eventually fall apart in the design phase. 

Any ideas?

Also wanted to say thank you so much for this thread! I've learned so much in just these 9 pages that my own effort is already so much better than I'd originally hoped. This kind of info exchange is what makes this forum the best!

Cheers! :thumbsup:

Fiver


----------



## teslabe

Fiver said:


> This is FANTASTIC work!!!
> 
> I'm totally impressed and inspired! I just posted a similar question on another thread but given the rest of this build...it applies here: Are you going to do anything special for the arms? Say...some method of creating working arms that extend and retract accurately to the prop? I've been puzzling and puzzling until my puzzler is sore and I haven't been able to come up with anything that doesn't eventually fall apart in the design phase.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Also wanted to say thank you so much for this thread! I've learned so much in just these 9 pages that my own effort is already so much better than I'd originally hoped. This kind of info exchange is what makes this forum the best!
> 
> Cheers! :thumbsup:
> 
> Fiver


Thank you very much my friend for the kind encouragement, glad there's stuff here you can use.....:wave: I hadn't planed to do anything with the arms, but the neck (#68), I will try to replace with something more flexable
so it can rise and lower properly, I will post what I find if I find a proportioned solution, fingers crossed.....


----------



## teslabe

Dave in RI said:


> Looks more like a laboratory than a workbench......


You must have seen something move and that's what made it look like a laboratory, it's just a mass right now.....


----------



## teslabe

Thought I'd get some work done on the brain but like any kid I got distracted and ended up working on the torso rotation mod. I printed a bearing mount and 
glued it to the waist plate, then glued both halves of the torso rotation ring together and also glued it to the waist plate, then installed a slip-ring (rotary joint) to bring all power and control signals from the lower half to the torso, allowing the torso to spin completely without worry of the wires twisting. Then I cut out the bottom of the torso and will mount the bearing to it after I paint the track assembly and waist plate. I think that's why I decided to work on this, so I can get all the major parts painted.....

P.S. I was trying to use up some crap PLA filament, that's why the bearing mount looks a bit rough.


----------



## DCH10664

WoW !!! This is just "over the top" and "off the charts" fantastic ! With everything else I've seen in this thread, it wouldn't surprise me if your robot ends up capable of releasing bolts of energy from the claws as it did in the series ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

DCH10664 said:


> WoW !!! This is just "over the top" and "off the charts" fantastic ! With everything else I've seen in this thread, it wouldn't surprise me if your robot ends up capable of releasing bolts of energy from the claws as it did in the series ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


Thanks..... I did think about it but it would require 40,000 plus volts and would just be tooooooo dangerous, so I passed in the idea.....:wave:


----------



## starseeker

Fiver said:


> Say...some method of creating working arms that extend and retract accurately to the prop? I've been puzzling and puzzling until my puzzler is sore and I haven't been able to come up with anything that doesn't eventually fall apart in the design phase.
> 
> 
> Fiver


Making flexible parts, especially for things like the Robot, has had me wondering for some time, too. I still haven't got this book, but I've been meaning to, as it looks intriguing:

http://www.amazon.com/Small-Metal-Rubber-Parts-Edition/dp/0830604146

Still haven't got the Robot model so I have no idea of the sizes involved, but useable commercial parts may be readily available. Search for variants of "Machinery Black Rubber Flexibility Corrugated Sleeve Bellows". I know they come at least as small as 1/4" (my snowblower is covered with them) and they've stayed flexible on the snowblower in awful conditions for a good 20 years now.

Edit: forgot to mention that if you wanted the arms to extend or retract, my thought was using small accordion or scissors arms inside. I haven't seen any that small but they would be easy to fabricate. Every hobby shop sells strips of brass and all model railroad sections or rc sections sell down to almost invisibly tiny nuts and bolts and washers. Locktite the nuts when they're as tight as you want. A simple, tight pivot at his shoulders would give a movement in one direction, up and down being the most common "Danger Danger" pivot direction. U joints at the elbows and shoulders would be ideal but complex. Or if you just wanted the arms positionable, not retractable, then a reasonably flexible wire would allow the arms to be positioned to maintain a pose, reaching switches or holding a guitar, say.

Again, Teslabe, this is wonderful to watch. It's spring here, above freezing this week finally (and suddenly flood mode from the instant snow melt - sigh), which means soon into frantic outdoor mode (home repair, woodworking, gardening, and lazing) and away from modelling for a while (except maybe for some etching and metal casting and fiberglassing), but I'll still be checking in here with great interest. Thanks, Teslabe, for the fantastic imagination, instruction, and inspiration but especially the patience and generousness of your self. It means so much to so many.


----------



## Fiver

Still haven't got the Robot model so I have no idea of the sizes involved said:


> Alright Starseeker! A place to start looking! Much obliged! If these things go down to 1/4 inch then there should be something out there that's close to the kit dimensions if not spot on. I think the kit diameter is around an inch but I'll have to measure.
> 
> I haven't done any actual building on my kit yet as I'm in residency limbo with no space to work; so I'm collecting parts and info and testing out methods.
> 
> I mentioned earlier (or possibly on another thread) that a friend is working up some instructions for running geared axels made for wrist watches off a small motor to rotate the radar fins. He told me today that he's still working on it but that it would be much easier to create new parts than to try and modify the kit parts. I'll post all of it when he gets it to me.
> 
> I also ordered some 2mm "side glow" fiber optics from eBay as a possible alternative for the "mouth" section. If this stuff is as bright as advertised, I might be able to use just one super bright amber/orange LED and with Teslabe's instructions for sound synching it could look a lot more like real neon. I'll post some video of tests when I have everything I need.
> 
> So far, this is the best, most useful and illuminating thread on the subject. I've learned more here than anywhere else. I'm REALLY enjoying this! Thanks one and all!
> 
> Pax,
> 
> Fiver


----------



## Chrisisall

starseeker said:


> Still haven't got the Robot model so I have no idea of the sizes involved


30mm is about right, I found this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231160606184?lpid=82
but it looks a bit short. But the main thing is I have no idea if it's fully collapsible! And now I noticed the 30mm is 'hole diameter' which means it's too thick....


----------



## Fiver

Yep,

It's looking like the PVC "Popoid" arms are the best method and they would need to be custom made for this kit. Don't know how you could do that without tool and die and a manufacturing plant so I guess we have to make do with what Moebius has provided (until someone much cleverer than I figure it out, anyway) and I can live with that.

Good try, though. 

Okay! Moving right along...

Pax,

Fiver


----------



## jeffking45

Hey teslabe where did you get the torso bearing?


----------



## teslabe

jeffking45 said:


> Hey teslabe where did you get the torso bearing?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/6811RS-Bear...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item22fe3e324c

They are 72mm x 55mm x 9mm bearings and I got 10 of them off ebay last year for my Masudaya B-9, the one I kicked to the curb when I saw that Moebius was doing one..... I got a better deal last year, 10 for $30.00 plus free shipping. The link above was about the best price I could find today.....:drunk:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> my Masudaya B-9, the one I kicked to the curb when I saw that Moebius was doing one


The Masudaya is such a nice toy version though...


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> The Masudaya is such a nice toy version though...


IMHO, you are the only one who ever made that toy look respectable, soooooo much so that I bought two, but in the end I had to go with Moebius....


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> IMHO, you are the only one who ever made that toy look respectable


I am so humbled by this sentence you have no idea.


----------



## Fiver

Okay...

Where can we find photos of that build? 

Pax,

Fiver


----------



## Chrisisall

Fiver said:


> Where can we find photos of that build?


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=364285&highlight=danger

But the dynamics of that vinyl kit/toy are extremely different from the Moebius model...


----------



## model-ologist

*B9 Moebius Robot.*

Hello Testlabe.
Just curious...
approximately what will the total current draw of your Robot be when it is finished? 
Will you power it internally with batteries or an external power source?

Jim NY


----------



## teslabe

model-ologist said:


> Hello Testlabe.
> Just curious...
> approximately what will the total current draw of your Robot be when it is finished?
> Will you power it internally with batteries or an external power source?
> 
> Jim NY


Hi Jim, welcome to the forum. I hope to keep the total current at about a half
an amp, the motors unloaded draw about 300ma, but that will increase when they are moving the completed model. As for the power, it will be LiPo batteries since the robot will be motorized.


----------



## model-ologist

teslab, sorry I found this reply from you after I sent you those multiple Emails tonight.
Im still learning how to use and navigate through this site so please forgive my gawkiness.

JimNY


----------



## OzyMandias

Awesome mod for the torso Teslabe. That is exactly what I wanted to do with mine, but didn't know how to carry it out. I'm off to find a bearing! 

Any chance of getting the dimensions of the slip ring you used?


----------



## teslabe

model-ologist said:


> teslab, sorry I found this reply from you after I sent you those multiple Emails tonight.
> Im still learning how to use and navigate through this site so please forgive my gawkiness.
> 
> JimNY


No problem Jim, hope I answered your questions....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

OzyMandias said:


> Awesome mod for the torso Teslabe. That is exactly what I wanted to do with mine, but didn't know how to carry it out. I'm off to find a bearing!
> 
> Any chance of getting the dimensions of the slip ring you used?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYC12F-Caps...420?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f305ba29c

Thank you..... Here's the info.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Got some more work done, but as the saying goes, "The Devil's in the detail",
and there's a lot of detail parts to make. I got the R/C circuits done, at least the prototype, I plan to make PCB (printed circuit boards), hope to get the layout done this week. Next, I printed out "Bogie wheel" cups for the two larger bearings on the bottom of each foot to help with keeping the tracks in
line. I took the same model I used for the waist bearing holder and resized it
to 19.25mm, turned out good. It took forever to get the size just right for the bearing to fit snug, then glued them together and the first coat of paint, keeping the center free of paint, hope to mount them next weekend....


----------



## OzyMandias

Thanks teslabe, I've found a few sources for the torso bearing, and I'll probably pick up a slip ring as well. 

Just wondering about your 3D printing. Do you have your own printer, or do you outsource your jobs? Producing a bearing mount for the torso will be a scratch building project for me.

For my first B9, I probably won't be doing any RC. I'm looking at this first kit as kind of a 'Hero' prop, with lights and audio only. I will be buying another 2 or 3 of these, and I plan on fully RCing at least one of them. 

Your innovative techniques bear out my theory about the way the treadsection parts were engineered. They are obviously set up so they can be modified for an RC motion system. The styrene is nice and thick to ensure the parts don't buckle under the added stress and torque of moving metal and mechanical parts attached to them.

I'm hoping that resourceful and equipped for the job, parts manufacturer might produce scale silicon arms and legs. It would be very cool to be able to have the arms extend and retract with a calliper control for the claws! 

Even the possibility of extended silicon arms with a gooseneck armature so they can be manually posed. I have a small tabletop tripod for my video camera that has three gooseneck legs that are just about the right size. I picked it up on eBay at a very reasonable price.

Your build updates are inspiring and I'm enjoying seeing what you come up with each time.
Thanks for sharing!


----------



## teslabe

OzyMandias said:


> Thanks teslabe, I've found a few sources for the torso bearing, and I'll probably pick up a slip ring as well.
> 
> Just wondering about your 3D printing. Do you have your own printer, or do you outsource your jobs? Producing a bearing mount for the torso will be a scratch building project for me.
> 
> For my first B9, I probably won't be doing any RC. I'm looking at this first kit as kind of a 'Hero' prop, with lights and audio only. I will be buying another 2 or 3 of these, and I plan on fully RCing at least one of them.
> 
> Your innovative techniques bear out my theory about the way the treadsection parts were engineered. They are obviously set up so they can be modified for an RC motion system. The styrene is nice and thick to ensure the parts don't buckle under the added stress and torque of moving metal and mechanical parts attached to them.
> 
> I'm hoping that resourceful and equipped for the job, parts manufacturer might produce scale silicon arms and legs. It would be very cool to be able to have the arms extend and retract with a calliper control for the claws!
> 
> Even the possibility of extended silicon arms with a gooseneck armature so they can be manually posed. I have a small tabletop tripod for my video camera that has three gooseneck legs that are just about the right size. I picked it up on eBay at a very reasonable price.
> 
> Your build updates are inspiring and I'm enjoying seeing what you come up with each time.
> Thanks for sharing!


Thank you.... I do have a 3D printer, it's a MakerBot Replicator 2, it comes in so handy making things for a build, plus it's just a fun piece of hardware.


----------



## OzyMandias

Nice! I'd love to get into 3D printing. 

I was amazed to see that Officeworks (a large stationery supply chain in Australia) now have 'The Cube' available for sale on their shelves. While i understand that particular printer is not without its drawbacks, it means that the domain of 3D printing is fast reaching the mass market consumer level and not just the specialist.

I can only see that as a good thing as it means the prices will start to fall, and the hardware will become more diverse in its availability as the big manufacturers will start competing for their share of the shelves.

I'm not sure if you aware, but Mike Joyce, who is the only licensed manufacturer of 1:1 scale B9 replicas has produced a 3D printer of his own, aptly dubbed the 'B9 Creator'.


----------



## slee2099

Teslabe I'm not sure if you've answered this question or not, so I'll take a chance and ask it. I saw in another thread you made the finger lights and from the photo it looks like you used 1/16 and 1/32 tubing them I'm assuming you mounted the led on top with what looks like epoxy. Am I assuming correctly teach me Master Jedi.


----------



## teslabe

slee2099 said:


> Teslabe I'm not sure if you've answered this question or not, so I'll take a chance and ask it. I saw in another thread you made the finger lights and from the photo it looks like you used 1/16 and 1/32 tubing them I'm assuming you mounted the led on top with what looks like epoxy. Am I assuming correctly teach me Master Jedi.


I did post about the Fingerlights in another thread and should have moved it over, sorry..... When I get home tonight I'll post the sizes, but that looks about right. Yes, the 0603 red LEDs are mounted at the top and encapsulated
in 5 min epoxy, I used 34AWG MagWire. Be sure you remove any rough edges on the tubing so you don't remove the coating in the wires. Hope this helps.....:wave:


----------



## slee2099

Thanks


----------



## slee2099

Again thanks, and I had a thought if you use copper or brass tubing you could use the tube as ground and then pass only one wire down the center and solder the other to the end of the assembly. And for those looking for the led's I found them on Amazon, about 8 dollars for 140 assorted colors 20 of each color.


----------



## teslabe

slee2099 said:


> Again thanks, and I had a thought if you use copper or brass tubing you could use the tube as ground and then pass only one wire down the center and solder the other to the end of the assembly.


For me it's easier to prep the LEDs with the wires first and since both wires fit fine inside the 1/16" tube it's less work. Besides with the very short 3/32" tube soldered over the 1/16" tube, as soon as you try to solder the cathode of the LED to the tube it will melt all the solder and your 3/32 tube will move, plus, you will have to put something very small on the anode side of the LED to keep it from shorting, there just isn't that much room when working with small tubing and 0603 SMD LEDs, but don't take my word for it......


----------



## slee2099

teslabe said:


> For me it's easier to prep the LEDs with the wires first and since both wires fit fine inside the 1/16" tube it's less work. Besides with the very short 3/32" tube soldered over the 1/16" tube, as soon as you try to solder the cathode of the LED to the tube it will melt all the solder and your 3/32 tube will move, plus, you will have to put something very small on the anode side of the LED to keep it from shorting, there just isn't that much room when working with small tubing and 0603 SMD LEDs, but don't take my word for it......


 Your right I didn't consider the size of the part, kinda engaged mouth before putting brain in gear.


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> I bought this CD from the B-9 Builders website many years ago.


2 questions: 
Does that CD have "Mater of life and death" ?
And do you know where I can get it now? B9 doesn't seem to sell it any more.
I can take it off my DVD if need be, but that wouldn't be my first choice.
My client wants first season stuff on his, and I've decided to do the same for my own.:thumbsup:


----------



## steve123

With the SMDs Stan and I decided it was far better to use carefullly shrunken heatshrink for the fingers...it's just too easy to scrape the mag wire and get a short using steel or copper tubing, it's just not worth the risk. I just tore apart my first B9 to add the SMDs.. taking this kit apart is contra indicated.

Steve


----------



## teslabe

slee2099 said:


> Your right I didn't consider the size of the part, kinda engaged mouth before putting brain in gear.


It was a very good suggestion, but do to the diminutive size, maybe adding the wires ahead of time would be easier in this case.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> 2 questions:
> Does that CD have "Mater of life and death" ?
> And do you know where I can get it now? B9 doesn't seem to sell it any more.


Is that a phrase the robot used??? If so, I didn't find it on the season one disk. I have no idea where you could pick up the CD's now.


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> Is that a phrase the robot used???


On his way to warning the Robinson's of the elliptical orbit.


----------



## teslabe

steve123 said:


> With the SMDs Stan and I decided it was far better to use carefullly shrunken heatshrink for the fingers...it's just too easy to scrape the mag wire and get a short using steel or copper tubing, it's just not worth the risk. I just tore apart my first B9 to add the SMDs.. taking this kit apart is contra indicated.
> 
> Steve


Sorry you can't seem to get the hang of passing a twisted pair of Mag-Wire through a 1/16 brass tube without damaging it. Try using a #11 blade and open up each end just enough to remove any sharp edges, it's works very well and have never damaged any wire in all the years I've been doing this.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> On his way to warning the Robinson's of the elliptical orbit.


I'll go back and check again.


----------



## jimkirk

Chrisisall said:


> 2 questions:
> Does that CD have "Mater of life and death" ?
> And do you know where I can get it now? B9 doesn't seem to sell it any more.
> I can take it off my DVD if need be, but that wouldn't be my first choice.
> My client wants first season stuff on his, and I've decided to do the same for my own.:thumbsup:


Have you seen this CD set? http://www.danmonroe.com/themagneticlock/ramblings.html


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> On his way to warning the Robinson's of the elliptical orbit.


It's not on these disks, at least I couldn't find it.


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> It's not on these disks, at least I couldn't find it.


Ahh, I think that's because there's background music in both scenes he says it in.


----------



## liskorea317

Chrisisall said:


> Ahh, I think that's because there's background music in both scenes he says it in.


That is correct! Big dramatic music is playing as he says that line.
Someone who has Pro-Tools should be able to eliminate the music. Dan didn't
have it in those days he made these discs.


----------



## Chrisisall

liskorea317 said:


> That is correct! Big dramatic music is playing as he says that line.
> Someone who has Pro-Tools should be able to eliminate the music. Dan didn't
> have it in those days he made these discs.


I'll just go old school & dub it myself...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Maybe this is OT, but since Teslabe have said that he would pause this project, waiting for Paragrafix photoetch, does somebody know the status of Paul's production?


----------



## slee2099

*sound clips*

I found this link to some sound bytes I figured some may get use out of it, not only has L.I.S sounds but also others from past T.V. shows.

http://www.wavsource.com/tv/lost_in_space.htm


----------



## Genos

Teslabe,

Love the build! What keeps the top half and bottom half of the robot from coming apart at the bearing? The white plastic shaft appears to be fastened to the upper legs. I assume the outer ring/race of the bearing is fastened to the lower torso, is that correct? Is the inner ring/race of bearing bonded to the white plastic shaft? Is the friction between those 2 surfaces enough to keep it from coming apart? 

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

liskorea317 said:


> That is correct! Big dramatic music is playing as he says that line.
> Someone who has Pro-Tools should be able to eliminate the music. Dan didn't
> have it in those days he made these discs.


I'll dub it. I really can do it well.:thumbsup:


----------



## slee2099

A question for teslabe, where did you find switches small enough to go behind the programing panel. I've Googled, Binged, searched Ebay and every electronics company I can think of and can't find anything that small???????


----------



## teslabe

slee2099 said:


> A question for teslabe, where did you find switches small enough to go behind the programing panel. I've Googled, Binged, searched Ebay and every electronics company I can think of and can't find anything that small???????


http://www.ebay.com/itm/141065790429?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Here you go.....


----------



## slee2099

Thanks I guess I thought they were a little smaller.


----------



## Genos

With the new photoetch, the microscope might not be needed

Gene


----------



## teslabe

Genos said:


> With the new photoetch, the microscope might not be needed
> 
> Gene


Believe me it's still needed......


----------



## teslabe

Well it's been some time since my last update, doesn't look like a whole lot of work done, but at least the bottom is moving forward. Need to keep the old boy serviceable, just in case..... The lower torso will just use the pins to stay together, no glue. I used a wire strap to keep the bottom of the vinyl legs in place and I may put the batteries in there, not sure yet.....


----------



## Steve244

Doesn't look anything like the real thing. Where are all the transistoroids?


----------



## Chrisisall

That's just insane.


----------



## jimkirk

Teslabe where did you get the thinner treads for the inner pieces?
I know you posted the outer ones but not the inner treads.


----------



## DCH10664

Steve244 said:


> Doesn't look anything like the real thing. Where are all the transistoroids?


Just give him time, I'm sure they will be installed soon. And before you know it, this B9 may achieve independent thought and start building it's own offspring ! :tongue:


----------



## teslabe

Steve244 said:


> Doesn't look anything like the real thing. Where are all the transistoroids?


I'm surprised you missed them, they're right next to the Capasatators.....


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> That's just insane.


Thank you my friend and I shell seek help....


----------



## teslabe

jimkirk said:


> Teslabe where did you get the thinner treads for the inner pieces?
> I know you posted the outer ones but not the inner treads.


I didn't touch them, except for paint.


----------



## teslabe

DCH10664 said:


> Just give him time, I'm sure they will be installed soon. And before you know it, this B9 may achieve independent thought and start building it's own offspring ! :tongue:


----------



## teslabe

Genos said:


> Teslabe,
> 
> Love the build! What keeps the top half and bottom half of the robot from coming apart at the bearing? The white plastic shaft appears to be fastened to the upper legs. I assume the outer ring/race of the bearing is fastened to the lower torso, is that correct? Is the inner ring/race of bearing bonded to the white plastic shaft? Is the friction between those 2 surfaces enough to keep it from coming apart?
> 
> Gene


Gene, sorry for not answering you sooner, the inside race will be friction fit so I can remove it in case something fails and the outside race gets epoxied to the bottom of the torso. I'll post pictures of it completed when I get that far....:wave:


----------



## WEAPON X

So Awesome! 



teslabe said:


> Sorry for the long pause, but my "9 to 5" has been taking up most of my time, I did get some work done on the track mod, also got most of the lighting in the brain, hope to post more pics of that this weekend....:wave:
> 
> Moebius B 9 Track test - YouTube


----------



## Genos

teslabe said:


> Gene, sorry for not answering you sooner, the inside race will be friction fit so I can remove it in case something fails and the outside race gets epoxied to the bottom of the torso. I'll post pictures of it completed when I get that far....:wave:


Teslabe,

Thanks, that makes sense.

Gene


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Teslabe

Man, I have no words. Thank you for the detailed WIP pictures. Although I think your work is beyond my skills, I hope I can make the torso to spin, at least.

Since Paul have announcing the release of his awaited photoetch kit, I think you now will set the engines full power forward to finish your kit, won't you?


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe
> 
> Man, I have no words. Thank you for the detailed WIP pictures. Although I think your work is beyond my skills, I hope I can make the torso to spin, at least.
> 
> Since Paul have announcing the release of his awaited photoetch kit, I think you now will set the engines full power forward to finish your kit, doesn't you?


Fernando, I'm so very humbled and thank you for your support on my projects,
it means a lot......


----------



## teslabe

Not too much forward progress, but I did get the bottom half done, for the most part, here's a test run. A lot of the time has been spent figuring ways to keep the robot repairable, like what I did for the side covers on his feet.
As I said in the video, I will probably fix the gap at the top, but that will be later.....


----------



## starseeker

If the side panels vibrate a little loose under use and cause that gap at the top to re-appear , no matter how tightly you fill it, you might use small rare earth magnets inside the alignment tubes to keep the parts tightly joined.
Amazing work, as always!
VSO Downloader 3 works a treat for downloading videos from You Tube, at least directly from YTube. So I've already downloaded tour video in anticipation of watching it many, many more times, tho' if YTube counts hits, it won't show my repeated viewings. I'm really surprised by how big that Robot is! Very cool!
Have you any plans for motorizing the waist?


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> B9 walks- an early test. - YouTube


OMFB.:freak:


----------



## moebiusman

EPIC WORK. Super Genius at work here. :thumbsup:


----------



## DCH10664

All I can do is shake my head with amazement ! This is cool to the 10th power !!!
I really wish Moebius would make a 3 foot tall model of B9. After seeing all you have accomplished with this one. I can only imagine what you could do with a 3 footer !!!


----------



## gojira61

I have no words for how cool that is!

Well done, very well done!


----------



## Seaview

:thumbsup: JEEZUM CROW! That's AMAZING! BRAVO! WELL DONE, SIR!!! :wave:


----------



## SprintEz

Pretty sweet


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*HOLY BEARINGS, BATMAN!!*


----------



## slee2099

Teslabe this may sound like a silly question and I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but did you test fit the lighted voice unit you built, the reason I'm asking is because I built something very similar to your design and everything lined up great with the upper torso part 26 but when I tried to test fit it into the center torso the arm cavities got in the way. I hope this is not a problem in your case since you already have the lights installed. Also a question did you color you poly fill cause I noticed it doesn't show up white when not lighted.


----------



## teslabe

slee2099 said:


> Teslabe this may sound like a silly question and I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but did you test fit the lighted voice unit you built, the reason I'm asking is because I built something very similar to your design and everything lined up great with the upper torso part 26 but when I tried to test fit it into the center torso the arm cavities got in the way. I hope this is not a problem in your case since you already have the lights installed. Also a question did you color you poly fill cause I noticed it doesn't show up white when not lighted.


There are never silly questions, just silly builders like me...... Your correct, I never test fitted the main torso to the top with the voice box in place, I do have a small fit problem on the bottom corners. Looks like an easy fix, thank goodness and thanks for the heads up...... I didn't color the poly fill, but I did put a thin black cloth that I got at Michael's to hide the insides of the box, that's why you don't see anything, hope that helps....


----------



## teslabe

I'd like to express a very humble "thank you" to all who took the time to comment about my last post......:wave: I love the support.....:thumbsup:


----------



## RMC

*teslabe you ARE the GREAT-ONE*

:woohoo::woohoo: HAIL TESLABE THE "GREAT-ONE" ! :thumbsup:


----------



## dreddbatfan

I saw your video on youtube with the treads that you added to your moebius models b9 robot and I'd like to add some working ones to mine as well.I have the kit already and I'm getting a photoetch set from Paragrafix,the lighting,sound and remote control kit from Starling Technologies.I'd like a parts list and where to get them and assembly instructions(if possible).I was wondering if you have a youtube series of videos on how to put this all together?Thanks for your help and I hope to hear from you soon.

P.S.I'm new to the forum and I hope not to make a pest of myself with all the questions that I'll probably have.


----------



## teslabe

RMC said:


> :woohoo::woohoo: HAIL TESLABE THE "GREAT-ONE" ! :thumbsup:


Wow..... How does one reply to this????? Thank you very much, it's greatly
appreciated......:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> Wow..... How does one reply to this?


The standard reply could be something like "You need not bow, mortal."
:lol:
But he's right, in this area you are pretty god-like. Small g.


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> I saw your video on youtube with the treads that you added to your moebius models b9 robot and I'd like to add some working ones to mine as well.I have the kit already and I'm getting a photoetch set from Paragrafix,the lighting,sound and remote control kit from Starling Technologies.I'd like a parts list and where to get them and assembly instructions(if possible).I was wondering if you have a youtube series of videos on how to put this all together?Thanks for your help and I hope to hear from you soon.
> 
> P.S.I'm new to the forum and I hope not to make a pest of myself with all the questions that I'll probably have.


http://www.shop.polybelt.com/120XL031-Black-Rubber-Belt-60-Tooth-B120XL031BNG.htm
http://www.shop.polybelt.com/10XL037-Pulley-Aluminum-0187-inch-Bore-P10XL037-6FA187.htm
http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1212.html
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111298
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-Deep-...445?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3a064b45
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Sealed-B...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item53dcf309b7

I'm not very good at giving instructions for what I do since I never put any
down... So here goes..... I cut all the inside supports on both tread sections to make room for the motors, glued the sides completely with Plastruct Plastic Weld and clamped it for the evening. Then I used the peg holes on the outside treads for a guide to dill holes completely through on all four corners for the axles that the bearings will mount to. Next, with a good X-Acto saw #239, cut all the outside tread detail off on both tread sections. Cut the hole for the motor/pully and mounted the motors to the back wall, use the holes that hold the halves of the transmission assembly together, top screw is fixed, bottom has an arc for adjusting belt tension. Post #28 shows the standoffs I used to reinforce the knee hinges, this is where I pick the robot up at since it's now the strongest point on the old boy.....:thumbsup: I put two 4-40 screws through both tread sections to hold them together. Remember, you want to keep him such that you can disassemble him if something fails, you can see them in the last photo.
Well, this is a start, ask question, I'm sure I forgot something and take your time with this mod, it can only help......


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> The standard reply could be something like "You need not bow, mortal."
> :lol:
> But he's right, in this area you are pretty god-like. Small g.


You know, talk like that is going to give me a complex......
But I seriously appropriate you and my other friends here following a long and
posting comments.....:wave:


----------



## dreddbatfan

Thanks teslabe for the links.I have some questions(already).How many of each of these items in the links do I need?Where do I get those white pieces in the second picture?I got the link but it doesn't tell me where to get them and the sizes that I need,it looks like I need 2 different sizes.What size are those metal axles in the first picture for the 4 corners?In the first picture there are some white plastic pegs,how many do I need and what is the diameter of them?Thanks again for your help and I'm sure there's more questions to come.


----------



## DCH10664

teslabe said:


> You know, talk like that is going to give me a complex......
> But I seriously appropriate you and my other friends here following a long and
> posting comments.....:wave:


Well if you do develop a complex, I'm sure some of us can chip in and get you some therapy........Or at least a bottle of Prozac, lol. :tongue:

But in the meantime, thanks for sharing this wicked build !! :thumbsup:


----------



## ThingMaker

teslabe, 
Thanks for updating us, the robot looks great! Where did you get the white plastic wheel covers you put over the bearings? Were they printed for you? If so by whom?


----------



## Genos

ThingMaker said:


> teslabe,
> Thanks for updating us, the robot looks great! Where did you get the white plastic wheel covers you put over the bearings? Were they printed for you? If so by whom?


ThingMaker,

If he says 3D printer, just say this outloud: 

Serenity now, SERENITY NOW! 

Gene


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Thanks teslabe for the links.I have some questions(already).How many of each of these items in the links do I need?Where do I get those white pieces in the second picture?I got the link but it doesn't tell me where to get them and the sizes that I need,it looks like I need 2 different sizes.What size are those metal axles in the first picture for the 4 corners?In the first picture there are some white plastic pegs,how many do I need and what is the diameter of them?Thanks again for your help and I'm sure there's more questions to come.


I'm going to let you figure out most of this from the pictures I've already posted, as I stated in earlier posts, everything is off the shelf, except for the caps on the larger bearings, those I printed from the file I got from Thingiverse. I did cut the pulley down a bit to make it fit, but it's not that hard to tell what's in those pictures, like plastic tubing from Evergreen and brass tubing from K&S Engineering....


----------



## teslabe

ThingMaker said:


> teslabe,
> Thanks for updating us, the robot looks great! Where did you get the white plastic wheel covers you put over the bearings? Were they printed for you? If so by whom?


Thanks.....:wave: I printed them, take a look at post 145 & 147.


----------



## teslabe

Genos said:


> ThingMaker,
> 
> If he says 3D printer, just say this outloud:
> 
> Serenity now, SERENITY NOW!
> 
> Gene


This old thing....... I printed one long ago and it was too soft in detail....:freak:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> This old thing....... I printed one long ago and it was too soft in detail....:freak:


I LOVE that ship, soft or not....


----------



## ThingMaker

teslabe said:


> Thanks.....:wave: I printed them, take a look at post 145 & 147.


Got it, thanks! If by chance you have a few extra would you consider selling some? I'd be interested. Thanks...


----------



## Genos

ThingMaker said:


> Got it, thanks! If by chance you have a few extra would you consider selling some? I'd be interested. Thanks...


ThingMaker,

I wonder if you could achieve a similar effect by sandwiching your bearing between a couple of thin flat washers. This composite object would act as a tread guide for the belt and might even yeild a very realistic look. :wave: 

Gene


----------



## Genos

teslabe said:


> This old thing....... I printed one long ago and it was too soft in detail....:freak:


:lol:

I wasn't expecting that!

Gene


----------



## teslabe

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/FAN5646S700X/FAN5646S700XCT-ND/2217429

Sorry for not posting, my company moved, even though it was just 7 miles, we had 4 buildings, two of which are our labs and they have 5 large anechoic chambers, soooo much stuff to move......:freak: I did get the Brain lighting done.....:thumbsup: The first picture is of the way I did the three flashing lights on top, I used "0603" red SMD LEDs and mounted them right to the LED blinker IC, it was the only way to get them to fit, as shown in the second picture. The main body (third picture) has 10, 3mm flashing LEDs that I filed down on both sides to get them to fit. I put "1206" SMD resistors on each LED, this way I only have two wires coming from the brain......


----------



## gman223

Fantastic work, just amazing how much you stuffed into the brain :thumbsup: .


----------



## moebiusman

Yes that is looking very nice indeed. Fantastic!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## dreddbatfan

I'm on evergreens website for the plastic tubing and I was wondering what sizes that I need?The size for the bearings and for the covers that you used for the sides where the treads can get access to be removed.Where did you get the standoffs and how do you attach them.Thanks for your help with the build and I hope to see a video when he's all done.


----------



## viking2020

*RC control*

Hello it looks like you are using some sort of RC control for the robot if that is the case what are you using? A sabertooth board or an arduino and what kind of motor controller?
I must say this build is just killer I have been trying to reverse engineer it for a few weeks now and I am super impressed by your engineering skill.
the keyo slip ring is it just for the motor control In the base?
This is a super mod to say the least just beautiful


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> I'm on evergreens website for the plastic tubing and I was wondering what sizes that I need?The size for the bearings and for the covers that you used for the sides where the treads can get access to be removed.Where did you get the standoffs and how do you attach them.Thanks for your help with the build and I hope to see a video when he's all done.


http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

The tube sizes I used for the side covers are 1/2" and 7/16", the other sizes will depend on the I.D. of the bearings and the size of the axles you end up using. The link above is for the 1/4" standoffs I used, don't remember the two sizes, I just used what I had along with some spacers to get the right length. A lot of these questions should be easily figured out from the pictures and links I've posted and none of this is exact. Please understand I don't have instructions for what I did, it was all off the top of my head and should be easy to understand if you do modding to your kits......:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

gman223 said:


> Fantastic work, just amazing how much you stuffed into the brain :thumbsup: .



Thank you for the kind words......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

moebiusman said:


> Yes that is looking very nice indeed. Fantastic!!!:thumbsup:



Thank you very much and for taking the time to look.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> Hello it looks like you are using some sort of RC control for the robot if that is the case what are you using? A sabertooth board or an arduino and what kind of motor controller?
> I must say this build is just killer I have been trying to reverse engineer it for a few weeks now and I am super impressed by your engineering skill.
> the keyo slip ring is it just for the motor control In the base?
> This is a super mod to say the least just beautiful


http://www.amazon.com/HengLong-Upgrade-2-4Ghz-System-Transmitter/dp/B00G7GZTSE

I haven't settled on the R/C radio yet, I started with one I built, but at 433MHz, the antenna would be too long and hard to conceal. So I looked at 2.4GHz Transmitter/Receivers from Heng Long and Blade, I'm leaning towards the Heng Long since it has the motor drivers for a tank system built-in, but the transmitter setup is a bit strange, all the control for the motors are done with one stick.......:freak: I'm going to rewire it so that the left stick is for forward/back control and the right is for left/right control, but they have other functions I've not seen with R/C tank setups and I'm not sure if the rewire will adversely effect them, hard choices..... The Blade radios are standard 4ch transmitter/receivers, so no motor controllers built in and a "Caterpillar Motor Speed Controller" would eat up valuable room, so that's why I'm thinking hard about the Heng Long, stay tuned....


----------



## teslabe

I did get some work done this weekend, most was waiting for paint to dry.....
Got the crown motor installed, don't like the noise, will try enclosing it with some dampening material, hope it works. Also got the finger lights installed and the blinky circuit ready, everything for the head will be in the head assembly and only have two wires to hook up. Sorry there's not more to post but I am taking my time with this build, so stay tuned.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-DC-3v-...435?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3387adf7db

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400597549768?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Sorry, I forgot to post the link for the motor I used for the crown, I'll be running it at about 1.8 volts using one of these.....:thumbsup:


----------



## moebiusman

Incredible!!! way more elaborate then what I am doing. Love this build.


----------



## slee2099

Great job so far teslabe, I have a question do you happen to know how many volts the Big Dawgs sound cards can handle?


----------



## teslabe

moebiusman said:


> Incredible!!! way more elaborate then what I am doing. Love this build.


Thanks for the kind comments......:wave: The nice thing about this kit is, no matter how one chooses to build it, it's going to turn out great, IMHO.....


----------



## teslabe

slee2099 said:


> Great job so far teslabe, I have a question do you happen to know how many volts the Big Dawgs sound cards can handle?



Thank you, glad you like it so far.....:wave: The maximum I would recommend is
5 volts.


----------



## hamiltonpl

I scratched / scuffed the inside of the top collar section. Grrr. Ideas on polishing out those scratches? What best to use?


----------



## Chrisisall

hamiltonpl said:


> I scratched / scuffed the inside of the top collar section. Grrr. Ideas on polishing out those scratches? What best to use?


Future (Pledge) acrylic floor stuff!:thumbsup:


----------



## hamiltonpl

Chrisisall said:


> Future (Pledge) acrylic floor stuff!:thumbsup:


gave it a shot makes it look better but I have scratch a bit deeper. Like I said - better but I need a mild abrasive I think. Something that will not turn it foggy. thanks.


----------



## Neo-uk

teslabe said:


> The plan is to epoxy 0603 SMD LEDs onto the holes I drilled in the back of
> the buttons, making a 90deg bend right at the top of the button. Then add
> the epoxy high enough to allow filing to make even contact on all the push
> button switches. The travel will come from the switches themselves. Stay
> tuned.....:wave:


Hello Teslabe,
Please could you provide a link for the pre-wired smd leds you've used in this build.You might have already mentioned this but I couldnt find it.


----------



## dreddbatfan

Hi Teslabe,
I ordered 2 of the 10XL037 Pulley Aluminum 0.187 inch Bore and they came with flanges on them.In your pictures they don't have any flanges.Are they suppose to come off and how do they come off?I'm beginning to get the idea of what you used and how many of them I need.Where can I get those gauge pod plugs made for the big and little bearings?Thanks again for your help and the advice.


----------



## starseeker

Way back in post #133, about the torso bearings:



teslabe said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/6811RS-Bear...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item22fe3e324c
> 
> They are 72mm x 55mm x 9mm bearings and I got 10 of them off ebay last year for my Masudaya B-9, the one I kicked to the curb when I saw that Moebius was doing one..... I got a better deal last year, 10 for $30.00 plus free shipping. The link above was about the best price I could find today.....:drunk:


There's someone now selling the bearings for $4.99 each:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1pc-Thin-681...vy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item3a7ab97164&_uhb=1

if anyone is still looking. The specs are slightly confusing but the seller says that they are 72mm od for a 55mm inner shaft.


----------



## teslabe

Neo-uk said:


> Hello Teslabe,
> Please could you provide a link for the pre-wired smd leds you've used in this build.You might have already mentioned this but I couldnt find it.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/L0805W-20pc...-Led-Lamp-Light-Set-12V-18V-NEW-/221091220420
http://lighthouseleds.com/pre-wired-leds-1.html
http://www.dccconcepts.com/index_files/Prewired08mm0603SMTLEDs.htm

I don't buy prewired LEDs, I add the wires myself. Here are some links that might help.


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,
> I ordered 2 of the 10XL037 Pulley Aluminum 0.187 inch Bore and they came with flanges on them.In your pictures they don't have any flanges.Are they suppose to come off and how do they come off?I'm beginning to get the idea of what you used and how many of them I need.Where can I get those gauge pod plugs made for the big and little bearings?Thanks again for your help and the advice.


http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111298

The pulley is cut and that removes the end flange, the inside one I just popped 
off. I already posted the link to Thingiverse for the 3D file I used for the bearings, please take the time to read my past posts, there is a lot of info
already there....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

It's been a very busy couple of weeks both at work and back east, so I've not had the time I'd like to have for this build, but I now have the "Brain" done and can now move on to the Torso......:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Way back in post #133, about the torso bearings:
> 
> 
> 
> There's someone now selling the bearings for $4.99 each:
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1pc-Thin-681...vy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item3a7ab97164&_uhb=1
> 
> if anyone is still looking. The specs are slightly confusing but the seller says that they are 72mm od for a 55mm inner shaft.


Good find my friend....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## moebiusman

Well that is top notch work, That is fantastic!!! The Brain is a masterpiece.
Very well done Sir.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## starseeker

That is just a masterpiece of ingenuity and engineering. You are just in a league of your own. Thank you so much (again) for sharing your builds and your knowledge and your patience. I suspect you're single-handedly raising the level of model-building of everyone who sees your work. Well, almost everyone. I haven't decided yet whether you might not just be scaring me away. Inspiring me, yes, but scaring me at the same time. 
Crazy good, Teslabe!


----------



## Chrisisall

*faints*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> That is just a masterpiece of ingenuity and engineering. You are just in a league of your own. Thank you so much (again) for sharing your builds and your knowledge and your patience. I suspect you're single-handedly raising the level of model-building of everyone who sees your work. Well, almost everyone. I haven't decided yet whether you might not just be scaring me away. Inspiring me, yes, but scaring me at the same time.
> Crazy good, Teslabe!


Same here. 

I couldn't express myself better. :thumbsup:


----------



## gman223

starseeker said:


> That is just a masterpiece of ingenuity and engineering. You are just in a league of your own. Thank you so much (again) for sharing your builds and your knowledge and your patience. I suspect you're single-handedly raising the level of model-building of everyone who sees your work. Well, almost everyone. I haven't decided yet whether you might not just be scaring me away. Inspiring me, yes, but scaring me at the same time.
> Crazy good, Teslabe!


I would have to agree, builds like this one make me want to do more and try harder. I was just going to light mine, but after seeing the spinner in your robots brain I have to do that. Thanks for inspiration Teslabe:thumbsup: .


----------



## Genos

Teslabe,

Fantastic! Can't wait to see the next installment of this great build. :thumbsup:

Gene


----------



## teslabe

Thank you everyone for the kind words and continued support, it means sooooo
very much......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

First, "Happy 4th of July" to all my U.S. friends.......:wave: Got the first try at animating the claws done, not sure if I like it or if I'll keep it this way, but for now I can live with it...... If I have the room in the torso I may update it to some small servos, as seen in the last photo. For now I used some coils I pulled out of some very cheap R/C car I bought many years ago at Fry's Electronics.

P.S. I just updated the link for the video, I posted it the first time in an old unused account.....:freak:


----------



## Chrisisall

Wow, that's just crazy....


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Wow, that's just crazy....


I thought it was so funny when I first got them working that I wasn't sure if it was worth posting.....


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> I thought it was so funny when I first got them working that I wasn't sure if it was worth posting.....


To have one or the other move slightly once or twice like that when talking would really amp up the realism. 
If you make the finger lights move up & down though, my head will explode. Like in Scanners.:freak:


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> If you make the finger lights move up & down though, my head will explode. Like in Scanners.:freak:


The brain has gone as far as I plan to take it, so your head is safe.......


----------



## starseeker

What a marvellous, beautiful build. Really, there are no words. So I'm not going to say anything more about it. Just watch and admire.


----------



## slee2099

Wowzers Teslabe I only hope mine turns out a quarter this good, had to put everything on hold right now, basically running out of money and unemployment doesn't allow for many frills.


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> The brain has gone as far as I plan to take it, so your head is safe.......


Thank the god of biomechanics....


----------



## Genos

teslabe said:


> First, "Happy 4th of July" to all my U.S. friends.......:wave: Got the first try at animating the claws done, not sure if I like it or if I'll keep it this way, but for now I can live with it...... If I have the room in the torso I may update it to some small servos, as seen in the last photo. For now I used some coils I pulled out of some very cheap R/C car I bought many years ago at Fry's Electronics.
> 
> P.S. I just updated the link for the video, I posted it the first time in an old unused account.....:freak:
> 
> B 9 Claws in motion01 - YouTube


teslabe,

That is incredible! Definitely, keep it or least some form of it.

Gene


----------



## Fernando Mureb

This forum should have a rule, prohibiting threads about WIPs clearly beyond the abilities of anybody else.


----------



## propinquity

Good God, man. I've been clicking through the YouTube videos you've posted on the B9 modifications and...and...I'm speechless. Well, not literally speechless because I'm writing all this, but I just want to say, keep up the tremendous work!

I need to read through everything you've so thoughtfully recorded about the mods on this forum, even if I don't think I'm capable of duplicating what you've done. When I was a little kid I'd watch Lost in Space and think how cool it would be to create an actual robot. In a sense, you're coming very close to the actual field of robotics with the mods you've done with this kit, and if you keep going, you might even get to the point where you've created an interactive system. Which I really hope you have the time to do.


----------



## moebiusman

Fernando Mureb said:


> This forum should have a rule, prohibiting threads about WIPs clearly beyond the abilities of anybody else.


HA HA HA!!! Agreed!!!! Way outta my league. 
But very cool to see him work magic.


----------



## Eon

Hi Teslabe - inspiring work you're doing!
Two quick questions: you're using two BigDawgs to get 10 audio bites; are you connecting the two speaker outputs into one input of the PAM amplifier board (capacitively coupled?) or are they going to the separate left-right inputs and thus two speakers?
Secondly, the polyester pad for the voice lights - where did that come from?

Can't wait to see what you do next!


----------



## teslabe

A very big thank you to everyone who has taken the time to post some very nice comments, they mean sooooo very much......


----------



## teslabe

Eon said:


> Hi Teslabe - inspiring work you're doing!
> Two quick questions: you're using two BigDawgs to get 10 audio bites; are you connecting the two speaker outputs into one input of the PAM amplifier board (capacitively coupled?) or are they going to the separate left-right inputs and thus two speakers?
> Secondly, the polyester pad for the voice lights - where did that come from?
> 
> Can't wait to see what you do next!


http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15396B

Thanks Eon and a big welcome to the forum......:wave: The BigDawgs sound cards have a "floating load" (bridge) output, so you can't just hook it up to an amp, you'll short out the card's built-in amp.......:drunk: Unlike the mp3 player I'm using for the relay clicks, this card has a bridged amp output, so the negative side of the speaker is NOT ground. I will be seeing if the tiny
audio optocouplers above will work with my setup, stay tuned.....


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> A very big thank you to everyone who has taken the time to post some very nice comments, they mean sooooo very much......


Hey tes, with all your Full Metal Alchemist ability here, ever think of making a full-sized Robot? I bet you could make THAT walk & talk & wave its arms around!!:thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Eon said:


> Hi Teslabe - inspiring work you're doing!
> Two quick questions: you're using two BigDawgs to get 10 audio bites; are you connecting the two speaker outputs into one input of the PAM amplifier board (capacitively coupled?) or are they going to the separate left-right inputs and thus two speakers?
> Secondly, the polyester pad for the voice lights - where did that come from?
> 
> Can't wait to see what you do next!





teslabe said:


> http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15396B
> 
> Thanks Eon and a big welcome to the forum......:wave: The BigDawgs sound cards have a "floating load" (bridge) output, so you can't just hook it up to an amp, you'll short out the card's built-in amp.......:drunk: Unlike the mp3 player I'm using for the relay clicks, this card has a bridged amp output, so the negative side of the speaker is NOT ground. I will be seeing if the tiny
> audio optocouplers above will work with my setup, stay tuned.....


DEAR GENTLEMEN!

COULD YOU STOP TALKING IN MANDARIN AROUND HERE, PLEASE. THANKS.


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> DEAR GENTLEMEN!
> 
> COULD YOU STOP TALKING IN MANDARIN AROUND HERE, PLEASE. THANKS.


Yeah right, I just hook it up and make it work. Teckspeak makes me dizzy.:tongue:


----------



## Eon

Sorry guys, but I started many years ago with models, then moved into electronics, and now a darn good reason to combine them has arrived!



Fernando Mureb said:


> DEAR GENTLEMEN!
> 
> COULD YOU STOP TALKING IN MANDARIN AROUND HERE, PLEASE. THANKS.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Hey tes, with all your Full Metal Alchemist ability here, ever think of making a full-sized Robot? I bet you could make THAT walk & talk & wave its arms around!!:thumbsup:


So many times I thought about building a full size robot, but now that I downsized, sold my house and live in a two bedroom, OK, one bedroom and a hobby room, apartment, I don't have the room, so
I'll just have to do a better job on my Moebius build .....


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> DEAR GENTLEMEN!
> 
> COULD YOU STOP TALKING IN MANDARIN AROUND HERE, PLEASE. THANKS.


I'm sorry Fernando, this is what I meant to say. Sound card + Amplifier - Audio Opto Coupler = escaping Blue Smoke......


----------



## dreddbatfan

*Sound Cards*

Hi Teslabe,I have a question about the sound cards from big dawg(which I've been buying from him for 5 years now).I'm working on a birthday gift for a friend and I'm using BigDawgs sound cards but the song that I want to put on is too long for the sound card.Is there a way to put 2 sound cards together and have the second card start where the song leaves off so that it plays the whole song without interruption?The song is 4:22 but all of his sound cards don't play that long.By the way,I've been getting the pieces for my Robot B-9 piece by piece from your thread and I have almost everything that you posted.I look forward to seeing more post from you and the finished product.Thanks for your help with the sound cards.

Danny Redd
(dreddbatfan)


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,I have a question about the sound cards from big dawg(which I've been buying from him for 5 years now).I'm working on a birthday gift for a friend and I'm using BigDawgs sound cards but the song that I want to put on is too long for the sound card.Is there a way to put 2 sound cards together and have the second card start where the song leaves off so that it plays the whole song without interruption?The song is 4:22 but all of his sound cards don't play that long.By the way,I've been getting the pieces for my Robot B-9 piece by piece from your thread and I have almost everything that you posted.I look forward to seeing more post from you and the finished product.Thanks for your help with the sound cards.
> 
> Danny Redd
> (dreddbatfan)


Hi Danny, the bad news is that there is no clean way that I know of to get two cards to play, "one after the other", the cards would need some kind of trigger control. I would see if you could edit the song down to the 3.33 min limit that these cards have.


----------



## dreddbatfan

*Sound card length*

Hi Teslabe,
I checked Bigdawgs sound cards and they only make 200 second sound cards.If I cut the song down to 3:33 it still wouldn't fit on the card.If you know that they make one that's longer than let me know so that I can order it.Thanks again for your help.

Danny Redd
(dreddbatfan)


----------



## veedubb67

Just a thought - couldn't you compress the song down (reduce the bit rate)so it doesn't take up so much space?

Rob
Iwata Padawan


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,
> I checked Bigdawgs sound cards and they only make 200 second sound cards.If I cut the song down to 3:33 it still wouldn't fit on the card.If you know that they make one that's longer than let me know so that I can order it.Thanks again for your help.
> 
> Danny Redd
> (dreddbatfan)


Unless my math is way off, 200 sec divided by 60 = 3min 33sec.....


----------



## teslabe

veedubb67 said:


> Just a thought - couldn't you compress the song down (reduce the bit rate)so it doesn't take up so much space?
> 
> Rob
> Iwata Padawan


Yes you could, but to reduce the file enough to fit, it was sooooo nasty that I wouldn't use it. I took a 4.6mb mp3 file that was 4:54 long and reduced it to 288kb, 4.8k sample rate, 8k bit rate and it sounded bad.....:drunk:


----------



## dreddbatfan

Hi Teslabe,I was wondering what gauge wires you use for the motors in the feet as well as the rest for the robot.I was looking at the pictures and I can't tell.Thanks again for your help.

Danny Redd
(dreddbatfan)


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,I was wondering what gauge wires you use for the motors in the feet as well as the rest for the robot.I was looking at the pictures and I can't tell.Thanks again for your help.
> 
> Danny Redd
> (dreddbatfan)


Hi Danny, I used 22 gauge wire with a teflon jacket for the motor hookup, all my wire, from 18 to 32 gauge is teflon, it's much thinner than PVC so it's easier to work with in tight spaces and it doesn't melt like PVC when soldering to it.....:thumbsup:
Are you far enough along to post pictures of you build????? I know I'd like to see some and I'm sure the rest of the group would too......:wave:


----------



## dreddbatfan

Hi Teslabe,I'm having trouble finding someone to make those white caps for the torso bearing and the bearings for the feet.Would you know someone that will make them for me in the right sizes?I'll have progress pictures soon,I'm not as good as you because of my Rhuematoid Arthritis in my hands-it takes me a little longer to do things.Thanks again for your help in the build and any help that you can give me about those parts would be greatly appreciated.

Danny Redd
(dreddbatfan)


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Teslabe,
I hate to bother you with such a remedial question, but how (and where) did you hook your main power wires to the big DAWG board? 

I studied your picture of your board and removed the batteries and clips and I soldered new power wires to the position of the rightmost battery, and I'm running power from a 4.5 v wall wart, and still no joy. are the blue jumper wires doing something I should know about? 
I just want to eliminate the need for changing batteries

Lou


----------



## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Teslabe,
> I hate to bother you with such a remedial question, but how (and where) did you hook your main power wires to the big DAWG board?
> 
> I studied your picture of your board and removed the batteries and clips and I soldered new power wires to the position of the rightmost battery, and I'm running power from a 4.5 v wall wart, and still no joy. are the blue jumper wires doing something I should know about?
> I just want to eliminate the need for changing batteries
> 
> Lou


Lou, I'd hate to think anyone feels a question is a bother, I just hope I can answer it for them.... As for your question, if you are just looking to run the board from an external power source and not from the built-in button cells, then just hook up your wires to the two pads at the lower right corner of the board, be sure to remove the batteries. The board I posted is highly modified, the blue wire you see is coming from the output of a 5 volt regulator I added, my robot runs from a 7.4 volt battery and that is far more than what the sound card can handle, plus, I run the output of the solid state relay for the voice-box LEDs from the 7.4 volts, so I added the regulator for the card's power, hope that helps....:wave:


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

WOW, you've done it again!

I would have sworn those connections weren't there until you pointed them out.

Works like a charm!

thanks again
Lou


----------



## hal9001

teslabe said:


> I'll just have to do a better job on my Moebius build .....


*A BETTER JOB*? Hell, how?  What, give him the ability to do a sultry strip tease?

You do any better job and your head may explode!!  And you might get brain all over his brain....

Carl-


----------



## viking2020

*Brain Lighting*

What did you use to regulate the finger lighting in the brain there is some kind of device underneath the crown but I can’t figure out what it is.
HELP 
The wizard to the rescue I hope


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> What did you use to regulate the finger lighting in the brain there is some kind of device underneath the crown but I can’t figure out what it is.
> HELP
> The wizard to the rescue I hope


The flasher circuits for the finger lights are 7 of these very simple circuits, the link to the schematic is in the description of the video. The other circuits are just three different types of voltage regulators the power the crown motor, brain LEDs and a step-up for the flashers, they need at least 12 volts to run. Hope it helps.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,I'm having trouble finding someone to make those white caps for the torso bearing and the bearings for the feet.Would you know someone that will make them for me in the right sizes?I'll have progress pictures soon,I'm not as good as you because of my Rhuematoid Arthritis in my hands-it takes me a little longer to do things.Thanks again for your help in the build and any help that you can give me about those parts would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Danny Redd
> (dreddbatfan)


Hi Danny, sorry for the long delay responding to you question, I sent you a PM.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

hal9001 said:


> *A BETTER JOB*? Hell, how?  What, give him the ability to do a sultry strip tease?
> 
> You do any better job and your head may explode!!  And you might get brain all over his brain....
> 
> Carl-


Carl, your support is so greatly appreciated and motivating, I will refrain from him doing a strip tease though......


----------



## teslabe

Thought I'd post something, just so it doesn't look like I gave up on the old boy..... Now that summer is done I can get back to work. Got the torso lighting done, but had such a bad time with the Tamiya Acrylic clear color paints flaking off my LEDs and buttons, kind of was a swift kick in the motivational butt, so I set it aside till I could come up with a better idea. Last weekend while at the local Office Depot I spotted a package of Bic's "Mark-it" permanent marker, in a twelve color pack and gave them a try, so far they are working out very well.....:thumbsup: Here's a short video of the torso lights.


----------



## DCH10664

WoW ! The torso lighting looks perfect ! Looking forward to seeing this Robot all buttoned up and strutting his stuff. The Bic Mark it idea sounds like the way to go. Cause just like you, I also found out the Tamiya paint don't stick worth a hoot.


----------



## viking2020

*Crown Circuits Regulator Power Supply*

Hello I know we have become a bit spoiled but could you direct us to the items under the crown I have been working on this since the beginning and although I have yet to start the crown I want to make all my purchases up to date
I must say again this is a super ambitious build and it has made me a better modeler just trying to make a pale version of your masterpiece the robot has never been done right by anyone to this point you are a master :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:]


----------



## hal9001

Clapping claws, working tracks? Are you kidding me? Blinking lights from Hell, etc. Boy, talk about making the rest of us (speaking for meself) look like idiot children model builders!

How about moving to Europe!

Seriously, more than a little envious of your talent....

What kinda speed are you expecting on an open track?

*Le'me guess, the power pack actually works too?*

Taking your time, yeah, I'd say so!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Carl-

P.S. I suppose lighting bolts shoot out of his arse, uh I mean, claws also?


----------



## Tim Nolan

I had some time at my office this morning, so I was able to sit and read this entire thread from start to finish with great interest. All I can say is "HOLY SHIT". This is obviously SUCH a labor a love, and a tribute to your talents as a model builder and electronics genious. It is absolutely stunning, and I doubt we will see anyone else take this kit to this level. (Unless one of those Japanese dudes on some obscure site has one with electrical discharge coming out of the claws, you never know.... ) 

I really enjoyed looking at all of the fine work you have done so far, and look forward to seeing the finished jem. Truly inspirational work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talents. :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

DCH10664 said:


> WoW ! The torso lighting looks perfect ! Looking forward to seeing this Robot all buttoned up and strutting his stuff. The Bic Mark it idea sounds like the way to go. Cause just like you, I also found out the Tamiya paint don't stick worth a hoot.


Thanks for the kind remarks, sorry for the long pause replying......


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> Hello I know we have become a bit spoiled but could you direct us to the items under the crown I have been working on this since the beginning and although I have yet to start the crown I want to make all my purchases up to date
> I must say again this is a super ambitious build and it has made me a better modeler just trying to make a pale version of your masterpiece the robot has never been done right by anyone to this point you are a master :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:]


Thank you for sticking with this build, it's moving along, though at a slow pace.....


----------



## teslabe

hal9001 said:


> Clapping claws, working tracks? Are you kidding me? Blinking lights from Hell, etc. Boy, talk about making the rest of us (speaking for meself) look like idiot children model builders!
> 
> How about moving to Europe!
> 
> Seriously, more than a little envious of your talent....
> 
> What kinda speed are you expecting on an open track?
> 
> *Le'me guess, the power pack actually works too?*
> 
> Taking your time, yeah, I'd say so!
> 
> :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
> Carl-
> 
> P.S. I suppose lighting bolts shoot out of his arse, uh I mean, claws also?


Carl, love your posts and glad you like the build so far......:wave::wave::wave:


----------



## teslabe

Tim Nolan said:


> I had some time at my office this morning, so I was able to sit and read this entire thread from start to finish with great interest. All I can say is "HOLY SHIT". This is obviously SUCH a labor a love, and a tribute to your talents as a model builder and electronics genious. It is absolutely stunning, and I doubt we will see anyone else take this kit to this level. (Unless one of those Japanese dudes on some obscure site has one with electrical discharge coming out of the claws, you never know.... )
> 
> I really enjoyed looking at all of the fine work you have done so far, and look forward to seeing the finished jem. Truly inspirational work. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talents. :thumbsup:


Tim, I just don't know how to respond to your very kind post and I'm soooo very sorry for taking soooo long to say Thank you very much......:wave::wave::wave:


----------



## teslabe

Well, after three months of no postings, here is were I'm at right now. Got the torso rotation/main power switch/battery placement done and here is a shrot video and some pictures, hope someone is still interested.....


----------



## Chrisisall

You are insane in the membrane. Like Einstein.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> You are insane in the membrane. Like Einstein.


I knew there was something wrong, thanks, you just saved me all that money in therapy.......:wave:


----------



## backof

That's freakin' awesome. Probably the single most amazing build I've seen in a long time. I've followed the thread from the start and was expecting the tread motion but the rotating torso blew me away. The engineering is inspired.

Keep up the excellent work! We're still watching... feeling a bit inadequate, but still watching! :thumbsup:

Bob


----------



## DCH10664

This is absolutely wicked !! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

backof said:


> That's freakin' awesome. Probably the single most amazing build I've seen in a long time. I've followed the thread from the start and was expecting the tread motion but the rotating torso blew me away. The engineering is inspired.
> 
> Keep up the excellent work! We're still watching... feeling a bit inadequate, but still watching! :thumbsup:
> 
> Bob


Thank you for the kind words and support and truly hope you take the time to post photos of your build, nothing I like more then following "a build in progress".......:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

DCH10664 said:


> This is absolutely wicked !! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


Thank you for the support and sticking with my build, I can only manage 40-50
minutes of sitting before I need to get up and walk around, it''s hell getting old.....:drunk:


----------



## DCH10664

teslabe said:


> Thank you for the support and sticking with my build, I can only manage 40-50
> minutes of sitting before I need to get up and walk around, it''s hell getting old.....:drunk:


Oh I definitely understand how much it sucks getting old. But as they say, "Good thing come to he who waits". And this build has certainly proven that to be true. 
Like many others, I am simply amazed at all you have been able to do with your B9. And not to insult anyone else's work. But I still think you have the most perfect voice light set up I have ever seen in this model. You really nailed the look of the original. It's a shame someone doesn't mass produce your design.

Keep up the good work. :thumbsup: And I hope you have a happy holiday ! :wave:


----------



## viking2020

WOW INSANE I see you have the Rc worked out what kind of board is that ???

and what did you use to mount the new rotation setup specs to come I pray 
you are just making me feel like a kid again this build is the reason I started building again after 20 years plus 
JUST WOW  Have A happy Holiday fellow builders


----------



## Chrisisall

Teslabe used to work at MI6 in Q Branch, clearly.


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> WOW INSANE I see you have the Rc worked out what kind of board is that ???
> JUST WOW  Have A happy Holiday fellow builders


Thank you sooo very much, hope you had a great day and have a very Happy New Year.....:wave::wave::wave:

As for the question about the radio, take a look at post #227


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Teslabe used to work at MI6 in Q Branch, clearly.


----------



## teslabe

I hope everyone had a great day yesterday and the family are all well.....:wave::wave::wave:

I got the 10 push buttons done, although they are not going to control the B-9's voice like I said in the first video I posted in this thread, they do what the real prop did on the show, push the button and the light goes on, push again and it goes off. I thought it looked better that way.....


----------



## Chrisisall

OMFG.
That's all I have to say now.


----------



## TrekFan1701

teslabe, you do wonderful work! I just bought a Moebius 1/6 scale model kit and was looking around for how to light it. I had seen a number of others lighting their B9 models and even the mention of some lighting kits. I was seriously considering geting one of those until I saw your youtube videos and I really liked what I saw. I left a comment over there before I noticed that you had this thread. So I have started to review it. Like you, I want to take my time. It's going to take me longer more than likely because I live in a rural area. Anyway, thanks for the links to MP3 player and card players. I see in your post on 12/26 that you decided against having the push buttons activate the sound bytes. Would you share why? I have some small experience in electronics and I am pretty confident after reading your posts on this thread that I can do something similar. However, I am not going to have mine move, it's just too expensive. I have looked at RC units in hobby shops and they easily run $200 and more. I had a hard time swallowing the $55 for the kit. One last thing. I don't think I will have the cap spin my model's head. I have been watching the LIS reruns on MeTV and I have yet to see it spin, though it really is cool. I think it is beyond my skill set. Thank you so much for you post and hard work.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> OMFG.
> That's all I have to say now.


Thank you......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

TrekFan1701 said:


> teslabe, you do wonderful work! What about the MP3 player itself where you play the gear and relay noises?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clip-MP3-Pl...rg=20140602152332&rk=6&rkt=10&sd=161163295302

Thank you for the nice comment....:wave: The info is in post #64, here's a updated link, but understand, I do a bit of modding to most of the non kit items I use, they are not "plug-and-play".....


----------



## teslabe

TrekFan1701 said:


> teslabe, I see in your post on 12/26 that you decided against having the push buttons activate the sound bytes. Would you share why?


It's not that I decided against it, it just would have been annoying if every time you pushed to button to switch on/off the LED, the robot started rambling, so now the voice will be remote controlled. I found this 433MHz setup on ebay a few months ago and it hit me, the rest is history.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12CH-433MHZ...ing_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item4d0acc44f7


----------



## Chrisisall

**genius at work**


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> **genius at work**


Thank you so very much my friend, but when I saw the transmitter/receiver on ebay for sooooo little, it was a no brainer......


----------



## TrekFan1701

*Lighting the B9 brain*



teslabe said:


> the way I did the three flashing lights on top, I used "0603" red SMD LEDs and mounted them right to the LED blinker IC.


Teslabe, sorry for not comprehending the intricacies here.  Did you use the provided "stocks" or did you substitute them with copper tubing as you did the fingers? 



teslabe said:


> The main body (third picture) has 10, 3mm flashing LEDs that I filed down on both sides to get them to fit. I put "1206" SMD resistors on each LED, this way I only have two wires coming from the brain.


What size (in Ohms) were the SMD resistors you used? I figure they must be different values to make the LEDs flash at different rates. Did you use flashing LEDs fro the two "eyes"? (Just curious because I didn't see them flashing in the video.)

Anyway you could show us where the motor for spinning the crown is located/how it is mounted?

Thanks for your help.


----------



## Chris Pandoff

Man....you are doing an awesome job on this kit. Also the way you have been helping everyone and your detailed buildup has been amazing.

I'm in the process of building one myself. I am working on the front torso lights at the moment and was thinking of running arduino with a shift register, which i cant seem to get working. How did you program your front panel lights and are you able to post the code?

Regards,
Chris.


----------



## teslabe

TrekFan1701 asked, "Teslabe, sorry for not comprehending the intricacies here. Did you use the provided "stocks" or did you substitute them with copper tubing as you did the fingers?"

I used 1/16" brass tube

TrekFan1701 asked, "What size (in Ohms) were the SMD resistors you used? I figure they must be different values to make the LEDs flash at different rates. Did you use flashing LEDs fro the two "eyes"? (Just curious because I didn't see them flashing in the video.)"

http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/led_resistor_calculator.php
I used 180 ohms, but that may not be the best for your setup, use this LED calculator for the LEDs and voltage in your build. 

TrekFan1701 asked, "Anyway you could show us where the motor for spinning the crown is located/how it is mounted?"

The info is already in this thread, go back and take a look at post #228.

Sorry for replying like this, I keep getting "reply too short add more text" message when i tryed to reply in your post, go figure.....


----------



## teslabe

Chris Pandoff said:


> Man....you are doing an awesome job on this kit. Also the way you have been helping everyone and your detailed buildup has been amazing.
> 
> I'm in the process of building one myself. I am working on the front torso lights at the moment and was thinking of running arduino with a shift register, which i cant seem to get working. How did you program your front panel lights and are you able to post the code?
> 
> Regards,
> Chris.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/200957063666?lpid=82&chn=ps
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini
Thank you Chris for your support....:wave: I like to keep my circuits simple, I used an Aduino Pro-Mini, it has more then enough outputs to handle the 12 LEDs for the lower torso lights and there is no need for a shift register.....:thumbsup: I'm sorry I don't have any good pictures of my setup, the circuit for the "button control" blocks it, but I think you'll get the idea from these. I'm going to pass on posting my "Sketch" for the effect, I think you'll find these very easy to program and once you pick it up just think of all the "blinky light" effects you'll be able to do yourself.......:thumbsup:


----------



## Chris Pandoff

Thank you Chris for your support....:wave: I like to keep my circuits simple, I used an Aduino Pro-Mini, it has more then enough outputs to handle the 12 LEDs for the lower torso lights and there is no need for a shift register.....:thumbsup: I'm sorry I don't have any good pictures of my setup, the circuit for the "button control" blocks it, but I think you'll get the idea from these. I'm going to pass on posting my "Sketch" for the effect, I think you'll find these very easy to program and once you pick it up just think of all the "blinky light" effects you'll be able to do yourself.......:thumbsup:[/quote]


Thanks for that. I had no idea they were so cheap. I've been using ATtiny2313 for my circuits with a USB ISP programmer. So with your code are you just setting each LED high and low at predetermined intervals, because it looks very random which is what I want.


----------



## viking2020

*shoulder hook screws*

Hello can you direct us to where we might find those tiny screws you used on his shoulder hooks 
And is it possible you can tell me where I can find those metal axles you used for the bearing mounts on the treads section
Is it possible you could show how to properly wire the heng long control 
I am just amazed with what you are able to do 
I am so sorry about asking so much you have been very very gracious to answer anything we have asked of you
So any help is super appreciated
He is coming along amazing 
you have truly inspired me to go for broke with this build
INSPIRED WORK REALLY BEAUTIFUL


----------



## Mitchellmania

Just amazing!! I need to learn how to work with circuit boards (I've been so intimidated by it all), but the results are mind blowing! Thanks for sharing!


----------



## TrekFan1701

teslabe said:


> TrekFan1701 asked, "Anyway you could show us where the motor for spinning the crown is located/how it is mounted?"
> 
> The info is already in this thread, go back and take a look at post #228.
> 
> Sorry for replying like this, I keep getting "reply too short add more text" message when i tryed to reply in your post, go figure.....


No need to apologize. I apologize for having missed it. By the way, I found brass tubing from K&S engineering at Hobby Lobby. I also found insulated 24 awg wiring there in the area for wire art. but I can only fit one in the small tubing. What do you think of using the 32 awg wiring for doll house lighting?
Keep up the good work. I am really appreciative of the help you provide. I have been perusing eBay for the finger light LEDs and I found some 3 mm that already blink. What do you think?


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

*Mobios B9 tread section*

Hello,you have not posted anything lately and have not responded to pms,hope all is well! How goes the B9 build? I see that you do not have a link for thge gears that go on the motors for the tread and torso motor. Also what is the link for the large torso gear? How did you fasten the bearings to the tread section? There are no holes in the other side. Are those posts you printed ,then glued to the tread section?


----------



## teslabe

HOBBYENTHUSIAST said:


> Hello,you have not posted anything lately and have not responded to pms,hope all is well! How goes the B9 build? I see that you do not have a link for thge gears that go on the motors for the tread and torso motor. Also what is the link for the large torso gear? How did you fasten the bearings to the tread section? There are no holes in the other side. Are those posts you printed ,then glued to the tread section?


I've been too busy to post anything lately, should have some new videos soon. Please take the time to read my thread from the start, most of the info is there, the rest shouldn't be hard for you to figure out.


----------



## tedkitus

Hi Hobbyenthusiast,

Everything that you need is in this thread. Take notes and develop a parts list based off of what Teslabe has done. You can go to Stock Drive Products for timing belts, timing pullys, gears, bearings and shafts by cross referencing what has been listed here in this thread. If you wanted to get a thinner timing belt so it's a little more in scale with the two inner plastic ones you can. The bearing shafts look like they where just staked onto some metal shaft. It doesn't have to be a exact press fit for the bearings to stay on. Theres several ways you can do it. Stock drive is one stop shopping. They have a large selection of materials that could be used for this project.


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

*Torso gear and pod plug*

Does anyone know where I can get the torso gear and someone to print the pod plug retainer for the torso bearing?


----------



## tedkitus

The torso gear is not a gear. It's a timing belt that's been bought at a certain size to approximately fit inside the bearing retainer. It's probably the same tooth size as the belts that are used as treads. You might have to do some shimming with plastic stock then glue it all in place. You can have teslabes parts printed through Shapeways. The parts are really simple, so it shouldn't cost a lot of money.


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

tedkitus said:


> The torso gear is not a gear. It's a timing belt that's been bought at a certain size to approximately fit inside the bearing retainer. It's probably the same tooth size as the belts that are used as treads. You might have to do some shimming with plastic stock then glue it all in place. You can have teslabes parts printed through Shapeways. The parts are really simple, so it shouldn't cost a lot of money.


It costs $69 on shapeways for a white pod plug.


----------



## tedkitus

Well that seems very high for a simple part based on what other people are printing on Shapeways. Either you pay the cost or ask someone to print it for you or you buy your own 3D printer. I already answered your PM. You should put your questions in the thread so others can see and possibly answer them.


----------



## tedkitus

Hobbyenthusiast check post #282 for the battery voltage he uses to power the robot. He also uses a 5 volt regulator to keep from blowing up the sound card. You can buy a battery anywhere jameco or allelectronics.com. You can search the thread for any keywords you like. it only takes less then a minute.


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

tedkitus said:


> Well that seems very high for a simple part based on what other people are printing on Shapeways. Either you pay the cost or ask someone to print it for you or you buy your own 3D printer. I already answered your PM. You should put your questions in the thread so others can see and possibly answer them.


I did post if someone could print the 57mm pod plug bearing retainer for me ,but no one responded! I also asked about other parts.


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

tedkitus said:


> Hobbyenthusiast check post #282 for the battery voltage he uses to power the robot. He also uses a 5 volt regulator to keep from blowing up the sound card. You can buy a battery anywhere jameco or allelectronics.com. You can search the thread for any keywords you like. it only takes less then a minute.


I found a number of different capacities 7.4v rechargeable batteries about the size in Teslabe's post on OnlyBatteries.com. You would not need a high capacity battery for this build. The highest capacity battery on that site is 8800mah for $79.99. Lowest is 600mah for $17.99.


----------



## tedkitus

Very good! You just need to make sure that there's enough amperage to power all the components with enough headroom.


----------



## viking2020

*Where is Teslabe???*

Has anybody herd from teslabe ?
I must admit I am a little worried I hope all is well 
If anyone knows his status please up date the thread 

I hope the wizard is well


----------



## teslabe

tedkitus said:


> Hi Hobbyenthusiast,
> 
> Everything that you need is in this thread. Take notes and develop a parts list based off of what Teslabe has done. You can go to Stock Drive Products for timing belts, timing pullys, gears, bearings and shafts by cross referencing what has been listed here in this thread. If you wanted to get a thinner timing belt so it's a little more in scale with the two inner plastic ones you can. The bearing shafts look like they where just staked onto some metal shaft. It doesn't have to be a exact press fit for the bearings to stay on. Theres several ways you can do it. Stock drive is one stop shopping. They have a large selection of materials that could be used for this project.


Hi tedkitus,
Sorry for taking so long to thank you for dealing with this person, I got a flury of PM's asking that I respond ASAP and when I didn't he got rude, so I just stayed away.....:freak:


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> Has anybody herd from teslabe ?
> I must admit I am a little worried I hope all is well
> If anyone knows his status please up date the thread
> 
> I hope the wizard is well


Hi viking2020,
I'm here and doing well, thank you for your concern....:wave: Just so much going on with work and life, plus I had a few issues with the lack of room for all that was going to go inside....:drunk: The torso motor ate up a lot of room. Here's a video I meant to post back in April.

https://youtu.be/VdFEvOZdqM0

Why can't we post the youtube viewer anymore??????:drunk:


----------



## teslabe

Here's a little more up to date video.....

https://youtu.be/_xi4PqXlX8I

So it looks like the site is still broke, I should be seeing a viewer, instead it's just the link, what a pain.....:freak:


----------



## tedkitus

teslabe said:


> Hi tedkitus,
> Sorry for taking so long to thank you for dealing with this person, I got a fury of PM's asking that I respond ASAP and when I didn't he got rude, so I just stayed away.....:freak:


Hi Teslabe,
Not a problem at all, and your welcome. That's unfortunate that he was demanding information from you in a rude manner. Honestly most of what is needed to build the model is in the thread. All the parts are there. You just have to dig the information out and bookmark the parts so you can build a parts list like I already have. You can then look for second sources once you have a BOM. 

The build can be simplified by using one of the commercially available voice/sound and lighting boards for the kit. Stan's kit has a R/C option that you can add to his board to control the sound. His kit is programmable so you can easily download different phrases for the robot to say with software that he provides when you purchase his kit.

Youre canabalizing a r/c unit which isn't terribly difficult to apply to the robot. The challenge is fitting it inside the kit. The light, sound, and movement are separate modules anyway. They would look unified if a case was designed to house the controls. 

I'm a busy guy. I live in San Diego and take the train to work in Irvine. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I work for a medical device company. This is supposed to be a fun and rewarding hobby. Your thread is not a step by step how to, but more than enough information is there for a model builder thats resourcful with moderate skills to build the kit based on the information you have provided in the thread.

If you read the thread and look at the pics a couple of times, you can get a basic understanding of the approach you've taken and modify it to suit your own requirements and skill level. 

If you're not willing to spend money, then you must spend time to make it work. Part of my build when I get around to it is to design a case to contain the controls so it looks unified in Solidworks. :wave:


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

*I Did not demand informationj rude or otherwise*

Originally Posted by teslabe View Post
Hi tedkitus,
Sorry for taking so long to thank you for dealing with this person, I got a fury of PM's asking that I respond ASAP and when I didn't he got rude, so I just stayed away.....


tedkitus said:


> Hi Teslabe,
> Not a problem at all, and your welcome. That's unfortunate that he was demanding information from you in a rude manner. Honestly most of what is needed to build the model is in the thread. All the parts are there. You just have to dig the information out and bookmark the parts so you can build a parts list like I already have. You can then look for second sources once you have a BOM.
> 
> The build can be simplified by using one of the commercially available voice/sound and lighting boards for the kit. Stan's kit has a R/C option that you can add to his board to control the sound. His kit is programmable so you can easily download different phrases for the robot to say with software that he provides when you purchase his kit.
> 
> Youre canabalizing a r/c unit which isn't terribly difficult to apply to the robot. The challenge is fitting it inside the kit. The light, sound, and movement are separate modules anyway. They would look unified if a case was designed to house the controls.
> 
> I'm a busy guy. I live in San Diego and take the train to work in Irvine. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I work for a medical device company. This is supposed to be a fun and rewarding hobby. Your thread is not a step by step how to, but more than enough information is there for a model builder thats resourcful with moderate skills to build the kit based on the information you have provided in the thread.
> 
> If you read the thread and look at the pics a couple of times, you can get a basic understanding of the approach you've taken and modify it to suit your own requirements and skill level.
> 
> If you're not willing to spend money, then you must spend time to make it work. Part of my build when I get around to it is to design a case to contain the controls so it looks unified in Solidworks. :wave:


I asked you questions just like everybody else did! I never got rude or demanding. You answered everybody else's questions but mine. All 22 pages you have a question and answer session going on! When I called you out on that fact,you chose to stay away. That is on you,not me! And to both of you,everything is not in the thread. Tedkitus,it is not in the thread that there is a belt inside the pod,that the torso gear makes contact with. You told me that fact! There are other things that are not in the thread. 
Get your facts straight the both of you and do not slander me any further!


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

tedkitus said:


> Hi Teslabe,
> Not a problem at all, and your welcome. That's unfortunate that he was demanding information from you in a rude manner. Honestly most of what is needed to build the model is in the thread. All the parts are there. You just have to dig the information out and bookmark the parts so you can build a parts list like I already have. You can then look for second sources once you have a BOM.
> 
> The build can be simplified by using one of the commercially available voice/sound and lighting boards for the kit. Stan's kit has a R/C option that you can add to his board to control the sound. His kit is programmable so you can easily download different phrases for the robot to say with software that he provides when you purchase his kit.
> 
> Youre canabalizing a r/c unit which isn't terribly difficult to apply to the robot. The challenge is fitting it inside the kit. The light, sound, and movement are separate modules anyway. They would look unified if a case was designed to house the controls.
> 
> I'm a busy guy. I live in San Diego and take the train to work in Irvine. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I work for a medical device company. This is supposed to be a fun and rewarding hobby. Your thread is not a step by step how to, but more than enough information is there for a model builder thats resourcful with moderate skills to build the kit based on the information you have provided in the thread.
> 
> If you read the thread and look at the pics a couple of times, you can get a basic understanding of the approach you've taken and modify it to suit your own requirements and skill level.
> 
> If you're not willing to spend money, then you must spend time to make it work. Part of my build when I get around to it is to design a case to contain the controls so it looks unified in Solidworks. :wave:





teslabe said:


> Hi tedkitus,
> Sorry for taking so long to thank you for dealing with this person, I got a flury of PM's asking that I respond ASAP and when I didn't he got rude, so I just stayed away.....:freak:


I asked you questions just like everybody else did! I never got rude or demanding. You answered everybody else's questions but mine. All 22 pages you have a question and answer session going on! When I called you out on that fact,you chose to stay away. That is on you,not me! And to both of you,everything is not in the thread. Tedkitus,it is not in the thread that there is a belt inside the pod,that the torso gear makes contact with. You told me that fact! There are other things that are not in the thread.
Get your facts straight the both of you and do not slander me any further!


----------



## teslabe

HOBBYENTHUSIAST said:


> I asked you questions just like everybody else did! I never got rude or demanding. You answered everybody else's questions but mine. All 22 pages you have a question and answer session going on! When I called you out on that fact,you chose to stay away. That is on you,not me! And to both of you,everything is not in the thread. Tedkitus,it is not in the thread that there is a belt inside the pod,that the torso gear makes contact with. You told me that fact! There are other things that are not in the thread.
> Get your facts straight the both of you and do not slander me any further!


Take a look at the first two pictures in post 298, if you can't tell that it's the same timing belt I used on the treads, cut to fit, then maybe this mod is not for you......:freak: I'm not about to give step by step instructions on how to do what I've done, but, the level of pictures and text should make it fairly clear on how to do the mods shown. Take a look at your TWO posts, you are rude and have an over the top sense of entitlement that I have no time for, no slander there, just fact.... Stick a fork in me, I'm done with you....


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> Stick a fork in me, I'm done with you....


:lol: :thumbsup:


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

teslabe said:


> Take a look at the first two pictures in post 298, if you can't tell that it's the same timing belt I used on the treads, cut to fit, then maybe this mod is not for you......:freak: I'm not about to give step by step instructions on how to do what I've done, but, the level of pictures and text should make it fairly clear on how to do the mods shown. Take a look at your TWO posts, you are rude and have an over the top sense of entitlement that I have no time for, no slander there, just fact.... Stick a fork in me, I'm done with you....


What these 2 posts where I point out the fact that you and Tedikus are slandering me? Not rude at all! No sense of entitlement! And you keep on slandering me! Peoples comments have gone too far into your head! " Oh mighty Teslabe,etc" 
And no that looks like it could have been a inside diameter gear! You never said where you got the mount for the torso motor either. ,etc! Facts are facts and you are speaking fiction. I asked you questions with utmost respect and was amazed at what you could do! You chose to disrespect me. You Teslabe are the rude one! If anybody is done with anybody it is me done with you! I am not going to put up with you or anyone else slandering me. To my shock when I came on here yesterday and saw yours and Tedikus posts slandering me!


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

Chrisisall said:


> :lol: :thumbsup:


Who asked you?


----------



## Chrisisall

Mods, can you deal with this troll please?


----------



## HOBBYENTHUSIAST

Chrisisall said:


> Mods, can you deal with this troll please?


You are the troll! I said nothing to you but you had to butt in anyway. Mind your own business!


----------



## Y3a

Eight year olds, Dude...*


* Big Lebowski


----------



## teslabe

I thought I'd post the "back story" of how this all started and my first encounter with this person.....

First PM, on 02/25/15 @7:25 pm.
Title: Moebios B9 tread section
"Hello,how did you get past the large molded tread and wheel tread section to put your own system in? Did you cut them off and how without ruining it?? What are the 2 sizes of bearings that you used? What is the exact part numbers of them and what you used to hold them in place. Also where did you get the tread belts.
Did you post on how you made the torso rotate? I think they should have made 2 different versions so it would be easy to add your own tread system.
Your response would be much appreciated
P.S. how did the animated claws go. Scrapped or using it?"

Second PM on 02/26/15 @ 8:22 am.
"Did you receive my message? I see no record of it."

Third PM on 02/26/15 @ 5:44 pm.
"Did you receive my message?"

Forth PM on 02/27/15 @ 5:31 pm
"Hello,I Took the time to read through your threads and like others I have questions about them. You graciously answered most of the questions and stated that you feel that you are not bothered by them. I ask you questions and all that changed. You have a great build and others want to do the same. Some info is not there in the threads and people ask you about it and you graciously answer them! I ask you and It seems you are annoyed with me! What is the deal with that?"

I hadn't been in the forum for over a month and just happen to check in on the 27th of Feb., I saw his post #326 and then read his PM's, OMG.....:freak: Now, tedkitus was nice enough to answer his questions and did very well going only by what I had posted, pictures/text, so, obviously the info is there.....


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Mods, can you deal with this troll please?


Do we have Moderators anymore?


----------



## teslabe

It's been over a year and a half, but, I got my B-9 done, except for some minor tweaking it's finished...... It was a fun build, Moebius did a fine job with this kit and I'm sooo happy, now it's time to move on to the next project....
A big "THANK YOU" to all who stuck it out with this build, hope there was something I did that helped with your build.....:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

Thanks for showing us THE BEST version of this build that THERE WILL EVER BE!!

*faints*


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks for showing us THE BEST version of this build that THERE WILL EVER BE!!
> 
> *faints*


Your such a fine friend and constant motivator, I don't know what to say but a very humble THANK YOU for staying interested in the build.....:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

Oh man, I'm happy just to get mine to light up & talk a bit. You are the _Scotty _of the modeling world- a true miracle worker! This needs to be in a magazine! :thumbsup:


----------



## subtoair

Fantastic build!!!! Teslabe A person might say,(you gone were no man has gone before!!) Great job!
Dennis


----------



## scooke123

Great job - was worth a year and a half spent!


----------



## texhonolize

There's always a bad apple in the bunch. Hope this doesn't discourage you from sharing your great work teslabe.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> This needs to be in a magazine! :thumbsup:


That's a very nice thing to say, but, I'm not very good at self-promotion.....
I'm just happy it's done......


----------



## teslabe

subtoair said:


> Fantastic build!!!! Teslabe A person might say,(you gone were no man has gone before!!) Great job!
> Dennis


Thank you Dennis, now I hope to get back to finishing my two Chariot builds, that's been a 6 year (off and on, more off then on) project....


----------



## teslabe

scooke123 said:


> Great job - was worth a year and a half spent!


Thank you scooke123, Moebius did a fantastic job on this kit.....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

texhonolize said:


> There's always a bad apple in the bunch. Hope this doesn't discourage you from sharing your great work teslabe.


Thank you texhonolize.....:wave: I've been in this forums a long time and have a very thick skin, I see what some post but refuse to give them any of my time if they become nasty, I just ignore them and move on like they aren't even there.....


----------



## teslabe

If anyone was curious what the inside of the old boy looks like, here you go.... For the longest time I was concerned it all wouldn't fit, but with a good crowbar and hammer, it fit......


----------



## texhonolize

*Inspirational*



teslabe said:


> If anyone was curious what the inside of the old boy looks like, here you go.... For the longest time I was concerned it all wouldn't fit, but with a good crowbar and hammer, it fit......


I have been following your build on this and it's inspired me to at least do half of what you did . I'm not good with circuits and programming, but I'll do the best I can to simulate what you've done.


----------



## teslabe

texhonolize said:


> I have been following your build on this and it's inspired me to at least do half of what you did . I'm not good with circuits and programming, but I'll do the best I can to simulate what you've done.


I truly hope you post a lot of WIP photos.....:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> with a good crowbar and hammer, it fit......


My LORD that's packed in there! :freak:


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> My LORD that's packed in there! :freak:


I had to re-due the voice/claw remote assembly twice to get it to fit, the fact that the two "Bigdwag" sound cards needed independent speakers didn't help...:drunk:


----------



## Chrisisall

I totally love the way he powers up with "Who turned out the lights" HAHAHAHAH!!!


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> I totally love the way he powers up with "Who turned out the lights" HAHAHAHAH!!!


Thank you, after I added the torso motor I knew I had to do something with the power pack.


----------



## rowdylex

WOW, haven't been here in a while, but the last few pages have made up for it!!!!!!


----------



## liskorea317

Chrisisall said:


> I totally love the way he powers up with "Who turned out the lights" HAHAHAHAH!!!


That was awesome to watch! Even my wife who is not a fan laughed out loud when the robot activated!


----------



## sheridan1952

Very impressive. I gotta ask a question regarding the upper body rotation. I've used similar motors before in other projects and they run as long as there is voltage. So...what keeps the body from rotating too much and ripping the wires out? I'm guessing nothing and the operator has to be mindful of that. No criticism intended, just wanted to know if that was the case or if you came up with a clever way to keep that from occurring.


----------



## teslabe

liskorea317 said:


> That was awesome to watch! Even my wife who is not a fan laughed out loud when the robot activated!


Thank you, glad you both liked it....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

sheridan1952 said:


> Very impressive. I gotta ask a question regarding the upper body rotation. I've used similar motors before in other projects and they run as long as there is voltage. So...what keeps the body from rotating too much and ripping the wires out? I'm guessing nothing and the operator has to be mindful of that. No criticism intended, just wanted to know if that was the case or if you came up with a clever way to keep that from occurring.


Thank you Sheridan....:wave: If you go back to post #125 you'll see pictures of the slip-ring (rotary joint) that I used, it allow continues rotation without the wires getting tied up in a knot.....:drunk: As for the motor, I used an Arduino Pro-Mini board to control it during the power-up effect and two small relays to change direction and keep from damaging the receiver, hope that answerer you question.


----------



## teslabe

rowdylex said:


> WOW, haven't been here in a while, but the last few pages have made up for it!!!!!!


Well, that'll teach you for staying away.....:


----------



## sheridan1952

teslabe said:


> Thank you Sheridan....:wave: If you go back to post #125 you'll see pictures of the slip-ring (rotary joint) that I used, it allow continues rotation without the wires getting tied up in a knot.....:drunk: As for the motor, I used an Arduino Pro-Mini board to control it during the power-up effect and two small relays to change direction and keep from damaging the receiver, hope that answerer you question.


Got it, I missed that part. And you're using an Arduino for control, WOW! Your work and ingenuity makes my efforts look like grade-school stuff.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I have to go look at your YouTube channel now.


----------



## viking2020

*torso hook screws*

Hey teslabe any chance you remember where you got those screws for the torso hooks thanks as always 
masterful work to say the least


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> Hey teslabe any chance you remember where you got those screws for the torso hooks thanks as always
> masterful work to say the least


Thank you very much for the kind words.....:wave: I will see if I can find anymore when I get home from work tonight.


----------



## teslabe

viking2020 said:


> Hey teslabe any chance you remember where you got those screws for the torso hooks thanks as always
> masterful work to say the least


Well viking2020, I looked everywhere and no luck finding more screws and I don't remember where I got the ones I used, you may try a watch repair shop and see if they have something that might work.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe, my friend.

I've been away from HT by some, what?, eight month? To say the truth, that was how long I've been away from the hobby. It started with a LOT of things to do in my job and after 2 month I realized that the focus of my interests had been moved from here to books, mainly.

Then, all of a sudden, with no cause that I could perceive, the flame lit up again and I came here to see what had happened while I stayed away.

I read the entire thread again and saw all the videos at your YouTube channel.

I must say that all words of praise I could write down here wouldn't be enough to do justice to your job. Besides, the other guys have already done that better than I could do.

So, what I would like to say is just a big THANK YOU!!

Hope to see you and the other folks soon in this forum.

Fernando


----------



## liskorea317

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe, my friend.
> 
> I've been away from HT by some, what?, eight month? To say the truth, that was how long I've been away from the hobby. It started with a LOT of things to do in my job and after 2 month I realized that the focus of my interests had been moved from here to books, mainly.
> 
> Then, all of a sudden, with no cause that I could perceive, the flame lit up again and I came here to see what had happened while I stayed away.
> 
> I read the entire thread again and saw all the videos at your YouTube channel.
> 
> I must say that all words of praise I could write down here wouldn't be enough to do justice to your job. Besides, the other guys have already done that better than I could do.
> 
> So, what I would like to say is just a big THANK YOU!!
> 
> Hope to see you and the other folks soon in this forum.
> 
> Fernando


Welcome back Fernando! Nice to know you didn't join the French Foreign Legion!:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe, my friend.
> 
> I've been away from HT by some, what?, eight month? To say the truth, that was how long I've been away from the hobby. It started with a LOT of things to do in my job and after 2 month I realized that the focus of my interests had been moved from here to books, mainly.
> 
> Then, all of a sudden, with no cause that I could perceive, the flame lit up again and I came here to see what had happened while I stayed away.
> 
> I read the entire thread again and saw all the videos at your YouTube channel.
> 
> I must say that all words of praise I could write down here wouldn't be enough to do justice to your job. Besides, the other guys have already done that better than I could do.
> 
> So, what I would like to say is just a big THANK YOU!!
> 
> Hope to see you and the other folks soon in this forum.
> 
> Fernando


First, welcome back my friend, it's been some time....:wave: Thank you so very much Fernando for the kind words and your support, I hope to start seeing you post some WIP photos of what you've been working on, it's been far too dead in here lately.....


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> it's been far too dead in here lately.....


Fernando's back; time for a party!:woohoo:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thank you guys! :thumbsup:

I always had the strange habit of insisting on a model, since I had started its construction, even if the activity would become tedious. It is the case of my Chariot. When the reasons that led to my temporary leave ended, I did not have mood to resume the project and ended up out of the hobby for a long time. 

Now I understand why a lot of guys here do more than one building at a time. I remember John P once have said that he opened the box of a model on his shelf, found it semi-finished and did not remember even to has got it started. :lol:

Well, I decided to take a break with the Chariot project and start something new to "pick up momentum." At the right time I will return to it. :wave:


----------



## Tim Nolan

I am amazed at what you've accomplished with this simple model kit! It's truly a wonderful build!!!


----------



## Steve244

zzzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZ Nice Robot!

(did I dream that?)


----------



## teslabe

Tim Nolan said:


> I am amazed at what you've accomplished with this simple model kit! It's truly a wonderful build!!!


Thank you Tim, it truly was a fun build....


----------



## teslabe

Steve244 said:


> zzzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZ Nice Robot!
> 
> (did I dream that?)


Thanks Steve..... Now get up for work, that's your alarm clock making all that noise.....


----------



## teslabe

Just thought I'd let everyone know that since this build is done, I will be deleting most of the pictures to make room for my next project. This will be done at the end of August....:wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

A gesture of a true gentleman. :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> A gesture of a true gentleman. :thumbsup:


Thank you Fernando, that was very nice of you.......:wave:


----------



## starseeker

Welcome back, teslabe! 
Welcome back, Fernando!
I don't have anything worth posting, so I've been staying away, but I see that the B9 is finished so I have to say that following this project has been a delight, an inspiration, and an education from start to finish. Not sure which of those is most important, but I'm going with delight. 
Thank you for all the time you've taken going through this step by step. An amazing piece of engineering and ingenuity. Thank you for all the questions you've answered. Much appreciated! Just reading about your projects makes one a better modeller. 
So I hope you're recharging your power pack, teslabe. Can hardly wait to see what your next project will be. 
All the best!


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Welcome back, teslabe!
> Welcome back, Fernando!
> I don't have anything worth posting, so I've been staying away, but I see that the B9 is finished so I have to say that following this project has been a delight, an inspiration, and an education from start to finish. Not sure which of those is most important, but I'm going with delight.
> Thank you for all the time you've taken going through this step by step. An amazing piece of engineering and ingenuity. Thank you for all the questions you've answered. Much appreciated! Just reading about your projects makes one a better modeller.
> So I hope you're recharging your power pack, teslabe. Can hardly wait to see what your next project will be.
> All the best!


First, welcome back starseeker, you just seemed to have fallen off the radar, happy to know you're well......:wave: Second, all I can do is say "Thank You", so very humbly for the continued interest and support, I so very much appreciate it......:wave: Here is my next build or at least the start, can you guess what it is????? Hint, the movie came out about 1982 and it's as comfortable on the ground as in the air....


----------



## Chrisisall

Spinner! Yeah, BABY!!!


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Spinner! Yeah, BABY!!!


You are sooooo correct.....:thumbsup: It's the 1/24 Fujimi Spinner with Paul's PE. I hope to start the thread next weekend over in the "Science Fiction Modeling" forum, I'll start with a short video of the light bars in motion, need to 
finish the driver circuits first.


----------



## TrekFan1701

*Save this thread*

Is there some way I can save this thread, including pictures? I haven't been able to spend much time on my model and I haven't even been able to get the brain lights working. If you can somehow archive and send this thread to me, including pictures, that would be so helpful. I tried clicking on thread tools and the only thing there that even looked promising was printable version, but it does not include pictures.


----------



## teslabe

TrekFan1701 said:


> Is there some way I can save this thread, including pictures? I haven't been able to spend much time on my model and I haven't even been able to get the brain lights working. If you can somehow archive and send this thread to me, including pictures, that would be so helpful. I tried clicking on thread tools and the only thing there that even looked promising was printable version, but it does not include pictures.


The only thing I could suggest is, open each photo, right click and select 
"save image as" and choose ".jpg", unless someone has a better way. They will
be here till the end of the month...:thumbsup:


----------



## jimkirk

It looks like quite a few pics have already been removed.


----------



## BOXIE

awesome job.As I listened to your sound files I could see B9 waving his arm and sounding off.


----------



## Trek Ace

teslabe said:


> Just thought I'd let everyone know that since this build is done, I will be deleting most of the pictures to make room for my next project. This will be done at the end of August....:wave:


 Hi Teslabe, I was curious as to why you are choosing to delete the photos for this thread. If it is just a space or storage limit online? Those of us who have followed along have the option of downloading the images, but it would be a great loss for future builders of the kit to be robbed of the excellent documentation and photos you provided as a resource. Since once the photos are removed, it effectively destroys the usefulness of this entire build thread that you have documented over the past few years. It's great work. It would be a shame to lose it.


----------



## teslabe

jimkirk said:


> It looks like quite a few pics have already been removed.


That was done a month before I posted the heads-up, sorry.


----------



## teslabe

BOXIE said:


> awesome job.As I listened to your sound files I could see B9 waving his arm and sounding off.


Thank you for the kind words.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Trek Ace said:


> Hi Teslabe, I was curious as to why you are choosing to delete the photos for this thread. If it is just a space or storage limit online? Those of us who have followed along have the option of downloading the images, but it would be a great loss for future builders of the kit to be robbed of the excellent documentation and photos you provided as a resource. Since once the photos are removed, it effectively destroys the usefulness of this entire build thread that you have documented over the past few years. It's great work. It would be a shame to lose it.


I wish I could keep them up, but HobbyTalk only gives us 18-20Mb of space for photos, so with this build done, I must make room for the next project. Thank
you for the very nice comments, now on with the Spinner....:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> now on with the Spinner....:wave:


Drools.....


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Drools.....


The first video is being uploaded now and I'll be starting the thread in about an hour or two, Last Ship and Falling Skies is about to start......:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

You'll do a man's job, sir!


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> You'll do a man's job, sir!


Thank you, the thread is up, I hope you like it. Why won't the youtube veiwer load anymore?????


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe!
Where is it?
Thanks


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Never mind, I have already found it.


----------



## teslabe

One week left till all the pictures will go away, just saying......


----------



## Chrisisall

I'm already sad...


----------



## whereisanykey

Well, under these circumstances I see no point in visiting this site anymore. What's the point, if a person cannot come along at some later date.


----------



## teslabe

whereisanykey said:


> Well, under these circumstances I see no point in visiting this site anymore. What's the point, if a person cannot come along at some later date.


HobbyTalk only gives about 20Mb of space for pictures, so I have to delete photos of finished builds to make room for new ones, I gave everyone time to save any pictures they needed last month, don't know what to say.....


----------



## Chrisisall

Say, "Read it all quick!" LOL!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I have all of your modeling classes downloaded in PDF and all the images too. :thumbsup:

Live long to HT but, who knows? :wave:


----------



## oshkosh619

teslabe said:


> It's been over a year and a half, but, I got my B-9 done, except for some minor tweaking it's finished...... It was a fun build, Moebius did a fine job with this kit and I'm sooo happy, now it's time to move on to the next project....
> A big "THANK YOU" to all who stuck it out with this build, hope there was something I did that helped with your build.....:wave:
> 
> https://youtu.be/Cr2w91rwh1w
> 
> Wish they would fix the youtube issue......:drunk:


Simply *MAGNIFICENT!*


----------



## Opus Penguin

teslabe said:


> Thank you soooo very much Fernando, it's very humbling.....
> I hope this video helps answer your question....:wave:
> 
> Adding an LED to my sound card for the Moebius B 9 Robot kit - YouTube


Oh man!!! This is sooo awesome! I was wondering how to do this, and this video helps. Thank you for sharing this!


----------



## teslabe

oshkosh619 said:


> Simply *MAGNIFICENT!*


Thank you soooo very much for the kind remarks, I'm glad you liked it, it was fun.......:thumbsup::wave:


----------



## teslabe

Opus Penguin said:


> Oh man!!! This is sooo awesome! I was wondering how to do this, and this video helps. Thank you for sharing this!


Happy you found this useful, don't run more then three LEDs straight from the audio output, you could have problems. I added a solid state relay to my setup to handle the ten LEDs in my build.....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Where did this year go?


----------



## starseeker

Way Off Topic: 
Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and I hope 2016 is a great year for you, not just model-making/engineering/inventing -wise, either, but I am looking forward to seeing what amazing things you'll have in store for us next year. All the very best!


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Way Off Topic:
> Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and I hope 2016 is a great year for you, not just model-making/engineering/inventing -wise, either, but I am looking forward to seeing what amazing things you'll have in store for us next year. All the very best!


Thank you so very much my friend......:wave: I also would like to wish you and your family a Very Merry Christmas and a very safe and Happy New Year.......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::wave:


----------



## teslabe

http://robot-b9.com/pictures.html

FYI, the pictures are now up on Bob May's website. A big Thank You to 
Mark Schwandt the web master for the kind offer.....:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> http://robot-b9.com/pictures.html
> 
> FYI, the pictures are now up on Bob May's website. A big Thank You to
> Mark Schwandt the web master for the kind offer.....:wave:


As Bill & Ted would say, EXCELLENT!


----------



## whereisanykey

I'm sure many will appreciate this.


----------



## whereisanykey

It was mentioned regarding the Robot sounds. The CD's that Teslabe spoke of are still available for $60 from www.dwmproductions.com


----------



## dablakh0l

teslabe said:


> FYI, the pictures are now up on Bob May's website. A big Thank You to
> Mark Schwandt the web master for the kind offer.....:wave:


Don't mention it, I was glad I could help out others who wanted to see your fine work.


----------



## tedkitus

teslabe said:


> http://robot-b9.com/pictures.html
> 
> FYI, the pictures are now up on Bob May's website. A big Thank You to
> Mark Schwandt the web master for the kind offer.....:wave:


Awesome! Thank you! Now I just need to read the thread again to match up with the pics.


----------



## nikstik

My b9 model is on the way after watching this, all I can say is "oh the pain" for the next few months


----------



## dreddbatfan

Hi Teslabe,I'll be starting on the lower section of the B-9 Robot soon and I think that I have some of the parts for the whole robot.Below are some questions that I have about the lower section-mainly about the track and the interior and extior hardware.So if you're ready here we go....

1.Did you put brass tubing inside the bearings then the white styrene inside them and how did you keep them in(glue)?
2.How did you figure the spacing for the smaller 4 bearings?Did you go by the impressions in the plastic parts?
3.How did you figure for the placement of the motors and the cut out for the motors with the gears on them?
4.I noticed that the motors had some white plastic pieces under them to raise them up.How did you make them,what are they made out of and did you glue the motors to them?
5.What type of battery did you use to power the motors?
6.What did you use for the 4 pins that are on each side that hold the bearings on,do they go all the way through the sides to the bottom and did you glue those in too?
7.What color paint did you use to paint the B-9 Robot?
8.What type of wires did you use for the motors as well as the whole robot?
9.How do you remove the flanges on the gears that go on the motors?You answer me before but I still can't get
them off.
10.Do you remember the type of standoffs that you used for the legs?I went to the link that you posted and I can't
find the ones that you usedthey all look the same to me.

Thanks for your help and I look forward to your answers.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,I'll be starting on the lower section of the B-9 Robot soon and I think that I have some of the parts for the whole robot.Below are some questions that I have about the lower section-mainly about the track and the interior and extior hardware.So if you're ready here we go....
> 
> 1.Did you put brass tubing inside the bearings then the white styrene inside them and how did you keep them in(glue)?
> 2.How did you figure the spacing for the smaller 4 bearings?Did you go by the impressions in the plastic parts?
> 3.How did you figure for the placement of the motors and the cut out for the motors with the gears on them?
> 4.I noticed that the motors had some white plastic pieces under them to raise them up.How did you make them,what are they made out of and did you glue the motors to them?
> 5.What type of battery did you use to power the motors?
> 6.What did you use for the 4 pins that are on each side that hold the bearings on,do they go all the way through the sides to the bottom and did you glue those in too?
> 7.What color paint did you use to paint the B-9 Robot?
> 8.What type of wires did you use for the motors as well as the whole robot?
> 9.How do you remove the flanges on the gears that go on the motors?You answer me before but I still can't get
> them off.
> 10.Do you remember the type of standoffs that you used for the legs?I went to the link that you posted and I can't
> find the ones that you usedthey all look the same to me.
> 
> Thanks for your help and I look forward to your answers.



Pictures Page
Well, I finished the build two years ago so I hope I can remember what I did, but look here for the pictures that should help. Here goes,
1)I used the combination of brass and plastic tubing as spacers for the axle rods, please don't ask what they were, I don't remember, but they are very stiff. I pressed them in with a small vise.
2)The small bearing are just for show and don't touch the belt, I used the old mold marks for placement.
3)I just did a lot of trial fits and placements before I cut or drilled anything, remember, these mods are one way, there's no going back once you start, so be sure before you start......
4)The white plastic are just spacers.
5)I'm using a Lipo 7.4v @800mAh 15c pack.
6)The pins are not pins they are the axle rods and they go though each "foot" not though both and they are very stiff, you can't have any flexing or the belts will walk off the bearings.
7)Silver.
8)Most of the wiring is 24AWG Teflon jacked along with 34AWG Mag-Wire where needed.
9)They are just pressed on and one is removed when you cut the gear to fit.
10)The standoffs are 4/40 hex of various sizes to fit the space.

The pictures on Bob May's website should answer your questions, good luck and have fun......


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## dreddbatfan

Hi Teslabe,Thanks for all the very usefull information that you gave me.Not ever doing anything with electronics before doesn't help me but I'm going to take it slowly and look at the pictures as I go for references.I did notice that you made a holder for the mini switch on the bottom and that should be easy enough to make.I'm lokng to buy the 24AWG Teflon wire on a spool and some 34AWG wire on a spool soon.I wanted to let you know that some of the links that you posted when you did yours that the parts are no longer available and was wondering where I might find those parts?The ones that I'm looking for now are the right angled mini motors,they're out of stock for a long time and I'm not sure where else t look.I do have 1 quick question-Did you glue the brass/plastic pieces inside the bearings and what type of glue did you use?Thanks again for all your help and I'll try not to be like that person that you posted that kept bothering you and you had to report on this message board.I hope to hear from you again soon.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Hi Teslabe,Thanks for all the very usefull information that you gave me.Not ever doing anything with electronics before doesn't help me but I'm going to take it slowly and look at the pictures as I go for references.I did notice that you made a holder for the mini switch on the bottom and that should be easy enough to make.I'm lokng to buy the 24AWG Teflon wire on a spool and some 34AWG wire on a spool soon.I wanted to let you know that some of the links that you posted when you did yours that the parts are no longer available and was wondering where I might find those parts?The ones that I'm looking for now are the right angled mini motors,they're out of stock for a long time and I'm not sure where else t look.I do have 1 quick question-Did you glue the brass/plastic pieces inside the bearings and what type of glue did you use?Thanks again for all your help and I'll try not to be like that person that you posted that kept bothering you and you had to report on this message board.I hope to hear from you again soon.


https://www.pololu.com/product/1511

After this much time links do break, but here is a good place to get your motors, I think it was this motor, but you know how memories going at our age......:wink2: As far as the glue I used on the stack up for the track bearings, it was 5 minute epoxy.


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## dreddbatfan

The link for the semiconductors says that they don't have any in stock.Where else can I get them and how many should I order?How many of the sound modules from BIGDAWG should I order?I already have 2 of them.Thanks again for your continued help.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/FAN5646S700X/FAN5646S700XCT-ND/2217429


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> The link for the semiconductors says that they don't have any in stock.Where else can I get them and how many should I order?How many of the sound modules from BIGDAWG should I order?I already have 2 of them.Thanks again for your continued help.
> 
> https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/FAN5646S700X/FAN5646S700XCT-ND/2217429


It's been over three years since most of this thread was posted and in the electronics industry things move at 
an unreal pace, these parts may be obsolete.....:freak: My memory on a good day isn't the best and after this amount of time all I can say is "I don't remember what I did", and you're going to have to improvise. I might suggest some of the light/sound kits that are offered for this kit, what I did took a lot of modification to make it not only work but also fit and I have to be very honest, I've long since moved on......


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## dreddbatfan

Where a good place to buy those little push buttons that you used for the 10 little lights on the front of your B-9 Robot?Also,where can I get the speakers that you used to replace the speakers from the sound cards?Thanks again and I look forward to watching more videos on your comlock build.


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## dreddbatfan

I think I'm losing my mind.I swear that I saw a diagram that showed what you added to the sound cards in the way of resistors,capassitors,etc. but now I can't find it anywhere in the thread or the pictures.If you happen to remember what you used on the boards let know.It stinks getting old.


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## dreddbatfan

I was wondering if anybody knows where to get the handheld adjustable power supply and microscope that Teslabe uses for his mods?Also,I clicked on the link for the Robot Rambling CD but there's no place to order it.I emailed the address that's there but I still haven't heard from them and that was a month ago.Would anybody know where I get get the CD?


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## whereisanykey

dreddbatfan said:


> I was wondering if anybody knows where to get the handheld adjustable power supply and microscope that Teslabe uses for his mods?Also,I clicked on the link for the Robot Rambling CD but there's no place to order it.I emailed the address that's there but I still haven't heard from them and that was a month ago.Would anybody know where I get get the CD?


I don't know how current the information is but here's a link

Robot Ramblings Voice CD Set

Note, the main page with contact info is:

The Worlds of Dan Monroe


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## dreddbatfan

*On/Off Switch*

I was wondering if anybody knows where Teslabe wired the on/off switch that's on the bottom of the treads?I've looked at all his pictures but I can't tell where he wired it to the vrobot.Any help that someone can give me would be greatly appreciated.I also wanted to thank whereisanykey for the help with the Robot Ramblings CD,I got in contact with Dan Monroe and I'll be getting all the sound clips soon from him.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> I was wondering if anybody knows where Teslabe wired the on/off switch that's on the bottom of the treads?I've looked at all his pictures but I can't tell where he wired it to the vrobot.Any help that someone can give me would be greatly appreciated.I also wanted to thank whereisanykey for the help with the Robot Ramblings CD,I got in contact with Dan Monroe and I'll be getting all the sound clips soon from him.


The switch is in series with the batteries.


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## dreddbatfan

Thanks Teslabe that helps a lot.I'm taking my time on B9 and I'm hoping to have the treads rolling and the hips spinning by the end of the summer.I'll take a break from it then to figure out the middle section.If your still there Teslabe,Where did you get your microscope for your hobby and your handheld power supply that you used to power up the treads for a test run?


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Thanks Teslabe that helps a lot.I'm taking my time on B9 and I'm hoping to have the treads rolling and the hips spinning by the end of the summer.I'll take a break from it then to figure out the middle section.If your still there Teslabe,Where did you get your microscope for your hobby and your handheld power supply that you used to power up the treads for a test run?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/AmScope-3-...462980&hash=item5d423dd050:g:OV8AAOSwcLxYCWCM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Variable-T...577783?hash=item19cf81e0b7:g:bw0AAOSwbqpTvfrw

Here is the Microscope and I didn't use a portable power supply, I used this this.,


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## dreddbatfan

Will this power supply be alright to use?http://https://www.ebay.com/itm/30V-10A-Adjustable-DC-Power-Supply-Precision-Variable-Dual-Digital-Lab-Test-110V/391321591608?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Will this power supply be alright to use?http://https://www.ebay.com/itm/30V-10A-Adjustable-DC-Power-Supply-Precision-Variable-Dual-Digital-Lab-Test-110V/391321591608?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649


Should be fine, be sure to get a good volt/ohm meter if you don't already have one.


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## dreddbatfan

I found this on ebay,let me know what you think if it's worth the money.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tacklife-Digital-Multimeter-Dm03B-Electrical-Manual-Ranging-Amp-Volt-Ohm-Meter/162835832274?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150817211709%26meid%3Df50ed5fd99bc4b84ab1d9f32b4e2b141%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D162835832274&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226


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## dreddbatfan

I just received an assortment of capacitors and resistors from Electronic Goldmine and they came in all shapes and sizes.I noticed that Teslabe added a capacitor to the tread and hip motors(that what I call it)and I'm wondering which one should I use for them?After I solder them on,I'll be ready to do a tread tracking,wish me luck.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> I just received an assortment of capacitors and resistors from Electronic Goldmine and they came in all shapes and sizes.I noticed that Teslabe added a capacitor to the tread and hip motors(that what I call it)and I'm wondering which one should I use for them?After I solder them on,I'll be ready to do a tread tracking,wish me luck.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/QTY-64-01u...740078&hash=item1a2378a546:g:sk4AAOSwx-9WulCj

I used 0.01uF @ 50v and these are very close to the physical size a shape cap that I put on the three motors in the old boy.....:thumbsup: I don't recommend buying assorted sizes and shapes of any part,
be sure you order the part that will fit otherwise you're going to have a lot of useless parts, just a thought. As for the DVM you posted, I can't speak for it's quality, but it has the right features.


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## dreddbatfan

Thanks Teslabe,you're the best!!!!Thankfully,this is the only thing that I bought that I deviated from your post that I ended up buying.Everything else that you either mentioned or gave the links to I've already buyed.As soon as I buy these capacitors and solder them on,I'll be ready for a test on my tracking.I'm attaching some pictures of what I've got so far before I solder the capacitors on.Give me your opinion of what you think.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Give me your opinion of what you think.


I think you did a great job, I would tighten up the track just a bit. Let's see the old boy move......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## dreddbatfan

Thanks Teslabe,that means a lot from you.I thought that the tread could go a little tighter.I'll shoot a short video when I adjust the treads.I thought everyone would like to see the real(at least it looks like the real thing)B9 Robot from Lost In Space that's signed by the remaining cast of the series.I had a chance to go to a secluded location in Michigan where a collector of movie and tv items and this was one of them,enjoy.


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## dreddbatfan

I noticed after I adjusted the tread so that they're a little tighter that the gear for the tread is bigger than the belt.Can I cut the gear to the size of the belt or leave it as it is?I downloaded all Teslabes pictures and noticed that the belt and gears on Teslabes were the same width.Any help that someone can give me would be greatly appreciated.


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## dreddbatfan

I received my Heng Long remote and receiver today and my receiver(after removing it from the case)doesn't look anything like Teslabes from his pictures.I was wondering if there's anything that I need to add to it to make it run right?In post #375,Teslabe stated that he added an Arduino Pro Mini Board to the receiver as well as some small relays to it.Does anybody know where these should be attached?Also,does anyone know what the attached picture is?It's attached to the receiver and I can't see any identifying marks on it.Thanks for any help that anyone can give me,I really appreciate it.


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## whereisanykey

I seem to remember there were changes made to that system. If you don't have the diagram you should be able to find one online, and then compare it to the one used here.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> I noticed after I adjusted the tread so that they're a little tighter that the gear for the tread is bigger than the belt.Can I cut the gear to the size of the belt or leave it as it is?I downloaded all Teslabes pictures and noticed that the belt and gears on Teslabes were the same width.Any help that someone can give me would be greatly appreciated.


I just used a small hacksaw to cut it down, it's soft metal (Aluminum).


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> I received my Heng Long remote and receiver today and my receiver(after removing it from the case)doesn't look anything like Teslabes from his pictures.I was wondering if there's anything that I need to add to it to make it run right?In post #375,Teslabe stated that he added an Arduino Pro Mini Board to the receiver as well as some small relays to it.Does anybody know where these should be attached?Also,does anyone know what the attached picture is?It's attached to the receiver and I can't see any identifying marks on it.Thanks for any help that anyone can give me,I really appreciate it.


IIRC the only change I make to the 2.4GHz Heng Long receiver was the addition of two 1000uF/10v caps, but it's not a big deal if you leave it as is. The two Arduinos were used for the front chest lights and the torso/power-up effect, please not ask what I did there, too long ago for my memory.....:grin2:


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## dreddbatfan

Thanks Teslabe,I just ordered the caps.Funny you should mention the Arduinos for the torso/power up effect because that's what I was looking at on the receiver to see where it goes.I'm still not sure what the attached picture is that's in the torso.Any ideas what it might be(if you can remember)?I was going to cut those gears down to fit the size of the belts but I didn't want to make a mistake.As you've said there's no going back once you make the mods and as the title of these posts "I'm Taking My Time On My B9".I received my power supply today and now it's time to get my treads moving.Other than reading the instructions(DUH),do you have any advice?What do you think of my picture of the real B9 Robot?Thanks again for everything and I'll post a short video of the tread test after I learn how to use my power supply properly.


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## teslabe

dreddbatfan said:


> Thanks Teslabe,I just ordered the caps. I'm still not sure what the attached picture is that's in the torso.Any ideas what it might be(if you can remember)?


That is the "pairing/binding button" for the receiver and is only needed the first time you make the radios talk to each other, remove it when done. As far as the torso, look close at the picture I posted of the torso and you'll see where it's plugged in for manual control, don't ask how I did the power-up effect, I'm keeping that to myself, but you might be able to figure it out.


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## dreddbatfan

Thanks Teslabe for keeping an eye on my progress with the build and your help.I have 2 of the Arduino Pro Mini boards,1 for the chest and the other for the torso.I'm sure after studying the picture I'll figure out where the board goes(or at least until my eyes bleed from stareing at the pictures for a long time).


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## dreddbatfan

Hi Teslabe,Back in post #375 you replied to Sheridan1952 that there's an Arduino Pro Mini board that controls the torso motor during power up plus 2 small relays to change direction and to keep from damaging the receiver.I've got the Arduino Pro Mini board but for the life of me I can't figure out where it goes.I've looked at all the pictures more than once and I can't see it anywhere.Either I've gone totally blind or you're the greatest illusionists of them all and it disappeared.I'm at the point where I can power up the torso section and test the torso rotation,I've already tested my tread sections and the tracking is good to go.I don't want to go any farther without finding out where the Arduino board goes because I don't want to damage the receiver.Any help that you can give me would be greatly appreciated,I can't wait to see the old boy moving on his own and his hips going back and forth.


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