# 22" AMT TOS ENTERPRISE ADVICE/ SUGGESTIONS



## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

*22" Amt Tos Enterprise Advice/ Suggestions?*

Hi Guys.

I have recently revisited this kit.All in all it's not too bad. However, being the detail and accuracy nut I am, and after building my umpteenth PL 1/1000 TOS Enterprise kits, I want to make this Accurate.What have you guys done? I have already replaced the navitional deflector with one made by Custom Replicas. Just looking for some Ideas. also if anybody has pics of their kits, please post em.


Regards, Mark


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

First, get the DLM accuraztion parts. That fixes most of the shortcuts taken by AMT.

Second, the secondary hull needs to be lengthened 1/8" -1/4" right ahead of the dorsal. It doesn't look right there, as it isn't right.

Third, get aftermarket decal sheets for your ship. The supplied sheet lacks most of the markings and I've heard that some sheets have had problems, such as yellowing. (also a problem for the AMT Reliant)


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Yeah, the DLM parts will help.
On top of the saucer, the teardrop shaped "B" deck is way too wide.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I agree,I am working on three of these right now.Since I cannot afford the MR thats coming out I decided to build the ones I have.One is done stock,but with aftermarket decals.The other two are being done with DLM parts and lighting board.Alexander


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Can you post pics of your work!


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

My advice is DON'T DO IT! 

Really, the above is the way to go. I have been doing here and there with the model, but nothing to show, yet.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

I don't have a complete model to show off as well. I keep having problems with the saucer I simply cannot solve. In spite of the reinforcement along the seams of where the saucer was designed to split to show off the interior, I cannot elimate the traces of where it joins together plus the underside has been worked on so much that I've taken too much away. I've put it away but I brought it out again early this week and I've got it propped up where I can see it. I'm figuring out how to smooth it out, but it mocks me, yes, it does.

In the meantime, here's a pic of the modified secondary hull. I sliced off the front cap right behind where the hull begins its taper and added a 1/4" extension of styrene strip. I blended everything together and I think it worked quite well. Which makes my problems with the saucer quite incomprehensible. My original pictures showing the process were lost in a HD crash several years ago but here's the end result. Judge for yourself. I've come across some info that indicates I should have only done 1/8" instead. Oh well.


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

I still can't tell where to add the 1/8" to the secondary hull. Could you draw a line on the photo that shows where exactly the strip was added.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Yeah, It's difficult to determine where you added the strip.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I will try to post some pictures over the weekend.Aves epoxy sculpt works well to replace any material lost.I had to do that when I made a bigger hole than the sensor at the bottom of the primary hull.Dumb mistake cost me a whole day!Alexander


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Well, to tell you the truth, I don't really know how to add those lines to a picture.  

I have, however, several more pictures that I found from a second such modification.

First pic is the initial step: cut the front array off. Compare this cut with your model parts, it is very obvious where the cut is.

Second pic is a series of internal support strips. Now, I used 1/4" strip - the very same strip I used later to build up the new extension. Yes, the strip sticks out further than the width than the 1/4" extension. Lay on the new strip, cut the excess of the supporting strip off. I also had to make allowances for the side inset of course and the way I did it, I sacrificed the side detailing. I figured to add it back on with a decal, perhaps. Once the area is ready, glue the front cap back on, putty, etc. If you can't see where I added the extension in my first pic, then I guess I did pretty good on it! LOL!

I will have to see just where that hull got to. I ended up packing the entire model away for some reason and don't even recall how far I got on it.

Hope these help!

_Edit: Found the model! It hasn't progressed too far from the pictures below. I'll do some additional work on it to highlight how the extension works._


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

Got It! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Oops, made a critical comment anonymously on a message board. I guess that shouldn't be done.

Good luck on your E!


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Ok Guys. Here are some pics of the current look of my 22" Cutaway. The gap in the upper saucer area is because I have not attached it yet.I also added these pics to my Photo Album.

http://img323.imageshack.us/img323/795/enterprise0001pk2


[URL=http://imageshack.us][img]http://img481.imageshack.us/img481/7594/enterprise0002fh1.jpg


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

starseeker said:


> and the curved replacement bits that go under the front nacelle domes don't fit that well and have a ton of pinholes.



A *TON* of pinholes?


Funny and unfortunate that I have to read of consumer complaints first through the anonymity of Message Board screen names.

Don Matthys 
dba Don's Light and Magic 
www.DLMparts.com 
[email protected] 
Make it Glow!


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Starseeker, I can't comment much on your experience with the DLM parts. I've purchased 2 sets of them over the years and have found them to be of VERY good quality. Mind you, some light sanding/filing helped me on the first set I installed and I didn't have any of the "pinholes" that concerned you. Maybe some surface imperfections, but nothing that couldn't be fixed with some light sanding to smooth them out. Also, I don't recall having the fit problems of the other parts you've mentioned.

I did have a problem with one part and Don was very helpful in replacing it. Yes, I screwed it up- it was my own fault and I had to purchase a replacement for a very reasonable cost but I happily paid it and was more careful the second time, which I should have been to begin with!

As for the overall saucer thickness, etc, I agree that for something that is very closely scaled to the AMT Refit, that is one thick saucer. It doesn't really "go" with the Refit but I can overlook it's flaws. I think that the dorsal isn't shaped quite correctly but I haven't really sorted it out to see by how much. I think the overall shape is pretty good, but it seems much thinner than it should be- at least to me.


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

starseeker said:


> I did get the DLM parts. Some of mine don't fit the cutaway that well. The nacelle end caps are a little too small in diameter, resulting in a marked step, and the grilled boxes that go near the rear of the nacelles seem much too small, and the curved replacement bits that go under the front nacelle domes don't fit that well and have a ton of pinholes. The new bridge decks and all the other parts are very nice, tho.


As Don intimates, if you've got a vendor issue, you should always try contacting them to see if you can get replacement parts. Pretty much all the GKMers and Retailers I know of are more than happy to replace defective parts. I realize you're not really making a full-on complaint and are simply relating a problem you had, but I urge you to contact Don thru PM or email and get this resolved to your satisfaction. I don't think I've heard of anyone who contacted him about an issue being left unhappy. Not trying to bag on you, just hoping to give some advice that works for you.


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

I guess if you can't make an critical comment anonymously on a message board, you really shouldn't make an appreciative one either. So rather than opening mouth and putting foot in, better not to say anything at all. 

Thanks for all the great reference pictures, building ideas, and inspiration, everyone. Wish I could have seen what Krako's Refit turns out like!!


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

OK OK enough with the grovel'n and scrapin'...
I pardon you. :jest: 

But a *TON* ?? :freak:


DLM


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

starseeker said:


> I guess if you can't make an critical comment anonymously on a message board, you really shouldn't make an appreciative one either. So rather than opening mouth and putting foot in, better not to say anything at all.
> 
> Thanks for all the great reference pictures, building ideas, and inspiration, everyone. Wish I could have seen what Krako's Refit turns out like!!


Whoa, man. I wasn't trying to bag on you! Just trying to suggest that you contact the retailer or GKMer of a product if you're not happy with what you get. You obviously weren't complaining outright, but relating a product story - and I got that. You'd be amazed how many people I've seen on DaNet who either don't think about contacting the person they purchased a product from or are afraid to for some reason. I was simply trying to alleviate any potential fears. Had there been a perception of you complaining to stir something up I'd have said so, I promise. 

No need to get all defensive. It's all good, dude.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

I echo what Griffworks said as well. No criticism intended.

Now, back to the modeling matter at hand. 

Saucer problems. As stated in an earlier post, I mentioned that I had problems with the saucer seam in making it a whole, non-cutaway ship. I'm curious to know how others solved the problem in preventing the cutaway seam from re-appearing like it is on my saucer. I've scribed out the putty in the groove again. I'm thinking either a bead of superglue or something that a friend of mine mentioned that a friend of his used.

Acyrlic nail powder, found in the drugstore. It's a very fine powder which you use some sort of an activating liquid to set the powder with. The liquid smells horrible :drunk: so that would be something to be used only with REALLY GOOD ventilation.

This saucer has stymied me for far too long and I've invested far too much time into the model to NOT to finish it but I'm getting tired of always having to fix that bloody seam.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Here are some pics of the two saucers with the aftermarket parts.On the lower sencer you can see a ring of grey epoxy filler were I had to replace the overcutting I did without paying attention to what I was doing!!!One has the access hatches cut and filled with clear epoxy.Alexander


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

WarpCore Breach said:


> I'm figuring out how to smooth it out, but it mocks me, yes, it does.


I found from experiance to get a clean join from the start. I started at one end with liqiud cement applied with a small pointy brush...making sure that the exterior surfaces flush and even to each other. Clamps are used. The result will be a glue bead like welding. When all that is set it's reinforced in the inside surface join with CA glues.

Any putty I used was red spot putty like Bondo on the outside seams. Smoothed out more with primer coats

As you have it now on your model WarpCore you may have worned it down creating a dip in a wide area from oversanding. You could screed in a layered coat of coat of Bondo and sand slow and wide to even things out. Good luck.

DLM


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

FWIW: The only fillers I've ever had any luck with have been:

1. Styrene cement and plastic shavings/dust (as mentioned above).

2. Super glue and accelerator promptly sanded.

3. Epoxy putty (Magic Sculpt).

The smoothing process is not always easy with these but it_ is_ possible to get a good seam and to, in the case of the putty, sculpt on a lot of interesting shapes and modifications. 

The bondo and other putties have always at least left a shadow of the seam if not actual gaps and are much more fragile and subject to damage.

P.S. Don's parts have always been of the highest qualilty in my experience. :thumbsup:


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Just forget the model, and get MR's Enterprise. Expensive,YES! But,no pains building it.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I am doing these because I cant afford the MR collectible!!Alexander


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

falcondesigns said:


> I am doing these because I can't afford the MR collectible!!


No, you've just got better sense than to spend money on a model you can only look at.


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

Lloyd Collins said:


> Just forget the model, and get MR's Enterprise. Expensive,YES! But,no pains building it.



Lloyd,
I know your kidding but we are modelers here...scratchers or assemblers (whatever) all. Die cast toys... next section up on the Hobbytalk menue for your instant gratification hobby fix.
:thumbsup: 

DLM


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Don, you are right. I was kidding. 
Their is no joy, like building it yourself. I have the Playmate toy, and it is nice to see the nacelles light, and the sounds, but it doesn't have my touch to it.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

DL Matthys said:


> I found from experiance to get a clean join from the start. I started at one end with liqiud cement applied with a small pointy brush...making sure that the exterior surfaces flush and even to each other. Clamps are used. The result will be a glue bead like welding. When all that is set it's reinforced in the inside surface join with CA glues.
> 
> Any putty I used was red spot putty like Bondo on the outside seams. Smoothed out more with primer coats
> 
> ...


Don, I think that's exactly what happened. I've oversanded the seam areas. The internal support should have been strong enough to stop the level of flexing I had been getting but for some reason, it wasn't. I spotted a break between the upper and lower saucer sections and I may pop the whole top off (again!!) in order to strengthen it up even more. Might even be worth refinishing the exterior seams at the same time. I haven't devoted much time to it this last week or so as I just haven't had the time to do so. I'll see where things stand after the Christmas break.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I have always been disturbed with the front collector that was produced with this kit.Why,with all the documentation for the 1701,would they add a fifth ring to the collector?As I am building three of these,two lit and one stock,I took two originals and cut them up to take out the one ring and add a smaller ring at the center.I made a mold and cast the three replacments.Alexander


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