# Viper Mk 7 Color



## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

Hi All,

With the upcoming release of the Moebius Viper Mk 7, I have a question on the color of the Viper body. It appears to be an intermediate blue or medium blue with some gray in it.

What do you all think?

Thanks for you help.


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

Here's a photo of the full-sized prop. Looks like a mid-blue metallic. I'm sure Moebius will include painting instructions with the kit.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

I like the look of the full-size prop but think a metallic paint on the kit might look a little overscale rendering it toy-like.
I went for an overall low-viz grey on the test shot but think I might try a very faded mid-blue on my next one....


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

miniature sun said:


> I like the look of the full-size prop but think a metallic paint on the kit might look a little overscale rendering it toy-like.
> I went for an overall low-viz grey on the test shot but think I might try a very faded mid-blue on my next one....


Think your right about the metallic paint. Based on photos of the CGI models, it looks like faded mid-blue that has been worn off, showing the bare metal underneath. Photo from this website:

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=427


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

Thanks everyone for their feedback.

Miniature Sun, I liked your low-viz paint scheme on the test subject.

I agree that the mid-blue paint seems to have worn off exposing the metallic body underneath.

I have a Black Sun 1/72 Viper Mk 7 and I've decided to pain it in the color scheme of the US Navy's Blue Angels. I saw a wonderful picture created by someone (sorry I don't know their name) title Shooting Stars. See the attached image. I bought the Blue Angel blue and yellow colors and the CAM Decals. I want to display it flying at the angle in the picture with a piece of brass coming from the tail and bent the same way as the smoke.


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

When I painted my 1:72 Viper Mark VII I tried out a fun idea for painting.

Black Primer, followed by a light gray(with some silver), then I mixed a blue-gray tone for the top coat. I used the salt technique to leave gritty bits of resist that made it easy to remove the blue coat, leaving some gray. Then with some light (very light) buffing, it pulled off bits of blue and gray to give that eroded look. It worked out well, in my opinion.


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

Here are some pics:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackbirdcd/4519968050/in/set-72157623638846436/


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

BlackbirdCD said:


> Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackbirdcd/4519968050/in/set-72157623638846436/


Hey nice job you did there...might try that technique myself on the next one....:thumbsup:


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

BlackbirdCD said:


> Here are some pics:
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/blackbirdcd/4519968050/in/set-72157623638846436/


Came out real nice, I was also thinking of using the salt technique.


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

wander1107 said:


> I have a Black Sun 1/72 Viper Mk 7 and I've decided to pain it in the color scheme of the US Navy's Blue Angels. I saw a wonderful picture created by someone (sorry I don't know their name) title Shooting Stars. See the attached image. I bought the Blue Angel blue and yellow colors and the CAM Decals. I want to display it flying at the angle in the picture with a piece of brass coming from the tail and bent the same way as the smoke.


That would look sharp! Please post photos when your finished.


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

spock62 said:


> Came out real nice, I was also thinking of using the salt technique.


Thank you! The salt trick was fun, but harder to remove than I'd anticipated. At one point I was applying significant force with an abrasive sanding stick to get the bits off (a very fine grain, but still). It'll work out better on this larger kit, I'm sure.


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

BlackbirdCD said:


> When I painted my 1:72 Viper Mark VII I tried out a fun idea for painting.
> 
> Black Primer, followed by a light gray(with some silver), then I mixed a blue-gray tone for the top coat. I used the salt technique to leave gritty bits of resist that made it easy to remove the blue coat, leaving some gray. Then with some light (very light) buffing, it pulled off bits of blue and gray to give that eroded look. It worked out well, in my opinion.


That paint job came out great. That salt effect looks impressive. I've always wanted to try but I felt unsure about it.


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

spock62 said:


> That would look sharp! Please post photos when your finished.


Thanks Spock, will do.

I'm going to start work on the cockpit and engines while I wait for the paint and decals to come.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

BlackbirdCD said:


> Thank you! The salt trick was fun, but harder to remove than I'd anticipated. At one point I was applying significant force with an abrasive sanding stick to get the bits off (a very fine grain, but still). It'll work out better on this larger kit, I'm sure.


The salt technique is a great technique that I have yet to master.
Part of the problem for me is thinking how the effect will look after painted and how the salt will come off.

Another technique that I plan on using on my Mk. VII is the 'hairspray' technique.
IMHO, its easier to use and you have more control over the effect.

For those not familiar with it, heres how it goes in the case for the Mk. VII.

1.)After priming with a good lacquer primer, paint whatever silver color you like again using a lacquer or enamel paint. Let dry.
2.) Spray the model with a WATER BASED hairspray. Find the pump hair spray section and look at the contents. If water is the first ingredent listed, your in business. I run the hairspray through my airbrush just like Future. Again, let dry.
3.) Now, paint your base color in whatever acrylic paint you like (I don't know about acrylic enamel). Again, let dry.
4. Now, take a brush and dip in water and wet a area. for scraping, I use toothpicks. Some I leave pointy, others I cut the end off at an angle forming a chisel. Using the toothpicks start scraping away at the wet area.
repeated wetting with the brush may be needed.

The hairspray forms a layer between the acrylic layer and the lower lacquer/enamel layer. The acrylic is needed for the top coat as it allows the water to pass through to the hairspray which loosens it up a bit.

What I personally like about this technique, is that there are no surprises like in the salt technique. Plus you can get leading edges of panels and keep on doing more if you feel it needs more.

There are plenty of videos of the technique on youtube to watch and I was very happy with my initial results.


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## saintg (Jan 7, 2004)

*color*

The full size Viper paint has a metal flake in it. The best scale color is Polly scale BR. P.R.U. Blue. And yes, I do have a paint chip from the set. 
George
www.timeslipcreations.com


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

saintg said:


> The full size Viper paint has a metal flake in it. The best scale color is Polly scale BR. P.R.U. Blue. And yes, I do have a paint chip from the set.
> George
> www.timeslipcreations.com


Yup, you nailed it. Thanks George.


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

Hey guys- can anyone tell me how to do the "salt" technique?


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## Fraley1701 (Sep 3, 2003)

modelguy1 said:


> Hey guys- can anyone tell me how to do the "salt" technique?


http://www.swannysmodels.com/Salting.html :thumbsup:


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I was able to get a satisfactory fininsh using Krylon "peekaboo Blue" lightly sprayed over Duplicolor grey primer

when it was almost completely dry, I buffed the high spots with one of those sanding sponges


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