# My MPC 22 inch Eagle build



## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Started work on this today, passenger pod first:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Got a little more done on this tonight:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208475474663044&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Got the cage framework together, this took only a few minutes to assemble but took almost two hours to clean tp the mould lines. These are not completely glued together since I need to paint and detail the the equipment shelves inside the cages.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208481932584488&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Got the spine together:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208487995416055&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Four nights into my build and I have only got this far:


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Looking good. The mold lines on the spine must be a bear to clean up.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

robn1 said:


> Looking good. The mold lines on the spine must be a bear to clean up.


Not bad at all, the spine is in 26 pieces, so it just takes a little time.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Yes, looking very good! May I ask what color combo you came up with to match the plastic color, or did you use a different reference for the overall color?
Jim


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Nice job and it seems to be coming along rather quickly!


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Hunch said:


> Yes, looking very good! May I ask what color combo you came up with to match the plastic color, or did you use a different reference for the overall color?
> Jim


Haven't actually started painting yet, it is still at the sub assembly stage, everything is being held together by rubber bands. Probably will not start thinking about paint until I get all of the sub assemblies done, hopefully by this weekend (Sunday and Monday for me). I may just do what Jim Small did and use an off the shelf rattlecan paint.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

crowe-t said:


> Nice job and it seems to be coming along rather quickly!


Yeah, I have spent three to four hours every night cleaning up the parts (very little clean up needed, mostly on the cage and framework pieces) and gluing the sub assemblies together. Tonight I am going to tackle the four shoulder pods and possibly the engine tank assembly.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Here is one of the errors that is in the first run of kits. This is the box that the four thruster bells attach to, nothing too serious and easily fixed:


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

A little more work done on this:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208496081578204&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Excellent information! Thanks!


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BWolfe said:


> Yeah, I have spent three to four hours every night cleaning up the parts (very little clean up needed, mostly on the cage and framework pieces) and gluing the sub assemblies together. Tonight I am going to tackle the four shoulder pods and possibly the engine tank assembly.


I just found this at Mega Hobby. It looks like seam work might be a little easier todo with this.

http://www.megahobby.com/bondicliqu...16&utm_campaign=UA-5732446-1&utm_medium=email


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BWolfe said:


> A little more work done on this:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208496081578204&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


I have a question on the landing gear as the instructions aren't very clear. Does the struts glue on both sides to the landing pad on one side and inside each of the four housings? Also, are you gluing the spring to one end as the instructions say to do?


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

BWolfe said:


> Haven't actually started painting yet, it is still at the sub assembly stage, everything is being held together by rubber bands. Probably will not start thinking about paint until I get all of the sub assemblies done, hopefully by this weekend (Sunday and Monday for me). I may just do what Jim Small did and use an off the shelf rattlecan paint.
> 
> So, (sorry to be a pain) is that the can Jim used on his and how close is it to the plastic. IS the plastic even the correct color? Everything LOOKS brighter and whiter under studio lights!
> I have mixed a lot of colors and have come Verrrry close. If that rattle-can is a perfect match I may go that route. Or I may use my mixture to bring out more detail. I'll post my mix when I find the paper I wrote it on. Its basically just colors, not ratios. Thats done to taste.
> Jim


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

jaws62666 said:


> I just found this at Mega Hobby. It looks like seam work might be a little easier todo with this.
> 
> http://www.megahobby.com/bondicliqu...16&utm_campaign=UA-5732446-1&utm_medium=email


But with MegaHobby, you don't get "But wait! Call in the next 10 minutes..."


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

I have a question on step 16 what do they mean by remove pin from the parts h47 and h48 used on the rear pads I'm confused with that I don't see any pins except for the pins that hold the middle brace piece q55 in place


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

jaws62666 said:


> I have a question on step 16 what do they mean by remove pin from the parts h47 and h48 used on the rear pads I'm confused with that I don't see any pins except for the pins that hold the middle brace piece q55 in place


I think I see what you are talking about, the image below should clear it up:


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Here is the main engine framework without the tanks and bells:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208501858442622&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BWolfe said:


> I think I see what you are talking about, the image below should clear it up:


Thank you that definitely clears it up. The kit is awesome, but the instructions are a little dicey.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BWolfe said:


> Here is the main engine framework without the tanks and bells:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208501858442622&set=a.10208465650497446.1073741862.1192467616&type=3&theater


I was able to decipher that part of the directions with little trouble. The fit is quite nice.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Keep in mind (if I have not already said this) that in many shots the piece IS there, so its up to the discretion of the builder. For instance the in the episode that has Peter Cushing during the title sequence right where it shows his name it is obviously there. And I've seen it in many other shots. Could be the second eagle (but it seems to have the bits on the pod from the first eagle. Confusing), just dont know.
Jim


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Piece Q39(Gemini kit part on studio model) was only on the front shoulder pods. Often times, since the studio model was disassembled and re-assembled from episode to episode, the front right shoulder pod would get switched with the left rear pod and the front left pod switched with the right rear pod. Then the Gemini parts would appear on the rear pod(s).


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Hunch said:


> BWolfe said:
> 
> 
> > Haven't actually started painting yet, it is still at the sub assembly stage, everything is being held together by rubber bands. Probably will not start thinking about paint until I get all of the sub assemblies done, hopefully by this weekend (Sunday and Monday for me). I may just do what Jim Small did and use an off the shelf rattlecan paint.
> ...


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

Yes I wouldn't say the Eagles have a yellow tint either. They look like you describe........pure white. And of course some very light grey panels.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

The can Jim Small used is very close to the 44" studio model and the kit's plastic. The kit's plastic was matched to Ford Diamond White. I spoke with Jim on the phone a few times and he said the paint he used is very close.

I had spoken with Chris Trice(he's the Gary Kerr of Eagles) and he said the original Eagle 44" studio model was first painted plain white and dirtied. It was then painted a white primer and painted again with a Trimite White Primer which is the same shade as Ford Diamond White(automotive paint) and this is how it appeared through most of the series. Ford Diamond White has a slight yellow and even a slight green tint under different lighting.

I had also spoken with a guy that mixes automotive paint and he told me a slight bit of yellow and black are added to make Ford Diamond White. In fact the yellow color used is a slight green-ish yellow color.

I have a sample of Ford Diamond White sprayed on styrene and used it to match using Testors Acryl Flat White with a drop of Yellow Zinc Chromate (which is a slight greenish-yellow) added. It's just about spot on to the Diamond White sample. From an inch away it looks exact. I didn't add any black since the Testors white doesn't look to be the brightest white and also the Eagle I painted was only 12 inches long so the color should be slightly lighter for the scale effect.

Here's the formula for Ford Diamond White. There is very little yellow and even less black added. The trick is to use a green-ish yellow or the color won't look right and use about a drop of yellow per 1 ounce of white.

DBC90631 Diamond White 

Paint Code: ZA 

Quantity : 1 Pint 
Code ----------- Color------------Cumulative----Parts 
DMD 1684------White-------------686.0----------686.0 
DMD 641--------Yellow------------690.7------------4.7 
DMD 1683-------Black-------------692.0----------- 1.3

Here are 2 pictures of the Ford Diamond White sample(on the tubes) and my Testors color matched sample on the square piece of styrene. The color is an off white with a slight yellow tint that also shifts towards green under different lighting. The color shifts look more pronounced in these pictures. Once sprayed on the Eagle and the weathering and decals are applied it looks very slightly off white but the yellow shift is there.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I would assume that learning one thing from the Apollo landings, Eagles would be pretty dirty. Moon dust got EVERYWHERE and our astronauts were grimy like coal miners, at least so it sounded like reading various histories. 

So I'm assuming many Eagles are gonna get lots of pastel dusting. 

Hey, Crowe, that's interesting about how the Ford Diamond White could shade a bit green depending on the lighting. I wonder if THAT was somehow a factor when Dinky Toys cranked out their famous metallic green Eagle toy.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Steve H, you never know but that could have been a factor with the Dinky Toy Eagle. Ford Diamond White looks more white under bright daylight but does have the slight yellow and green color shift under various lighting conditions. It really is a nice color. It's kind of like the TOS Enterprise's gray that has a slight green color shift.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

crowe-t said:


> Steve H, you never know but that could have been a factor with the Dinky Toy Eagle. Ford Diamond White looks more white under bright daylight but does have the slight yellow and green color shift under various lighting conditions. It really is a nice color. It's kind of like the TOS Enterprise's gray that has a slight green color shift.


Cool, and thank you. I'm just enjoying this odd renaissance we're in, information about things that are surprising such as how SkyDiver was actually GOLD (another automotive paint) but man, you could put a gun to my head and I would die swearing it was a curious shade green. 

(Good lord, were the Mobiles the same paint?! My world turned upside down!  )


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

My Eagle Is on it's feet! Still not glued together yet, just a collection of sub-assemblies held together with rubber bands friction and gravity, the nose is just sitting on a roll of tape and a box of "C" batteries. The engine module is actually self supporting, the fit is so good that the molded in pins are holding it in place. I just had to see it together before I broke it down to start painting.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

That looks great! It really looks like the studio model.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Looking really good, Wolfe! Are you going to weight the ship to get some compression on the landing legs? I would assume you'd put it in the passenger module, but some mass in each service module would also work I think.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Steve H said:


> Looking really good, Wolfe! Are you going to weight the ship to get some compression on the landing legs? I would assume you'd put it in the passenger module, but some mass in each service module would also work I think.


Actually thinking about finding some weaker springs, don't really want to add any more weight than necessary.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

BWolfe said:


> Actually thinking about finding some weaker springs, don't really want to add any more weight than necessary.


Better safe than sorry. 

But what about my idea of cutting a couple of coils off the spring. Would that work or is there a practical reason that it can't be done, like the spring actually being part of the critical structural integrity?


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Steve H said:


> Better safe than sorry.
> 
> But what about my idea of cutting a couple of coils off the spring. Would that work or is there a practical reason that it can't be done, like the spring actually being part of the critical structural integrity?


The spring is not even required, Jim Small built his test shot pictured on the kit box without them. As can be seen in this image, cutting loops off the spring will only serve to make it shorter, don't know if that would help.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208513885023279&set=a.10208513875703046.1073741863.1192467616&type=3&theater


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

BWolfe said:


> The spring is not even required, Jim Small built his test shot pictured on the kit box without them. As can be seen in this image, cutting loops off the spring will only serve to make it shorter, don't know if that would help.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208513885023279&set=a.10208513875703046.1073741863.1192467616&type=3&theater


I think we're having a communication gap and it's probably my fault, So pardon a more lengthy comment to insert context. 

One of the issues of having 'realistic' looks to a landed craft is the landing gear. Aircraft tend to have their landing gear molded without any compression and the tires fully round instead of the slight squish denoting weigh pressing down, this is a thing that 'rivet counters' spend some effort to counter to be more 'real'. 

This Eagle kit has springs in its landing gear (duplicating the 44" filming miniature) and the default look is having the gear fully extended with no compression, a look that could have been easily duplicated by not having springs. The Filming miniature had some decent weight to it and compressed that landing gear when at rest.

The discussion has been that maybe some weight should be added to the model so that the landing gear compresses some, per the filming miniature. I suspect there may be concern that the spring is so strong adding weight may cause failure in the landing gear over time.

So my thought was, cutting a few coils in the spring might give the look of proper compression on the landing gear without adding weight, and yet it's still springy if you push down on the model, and when you lift the model the gear will properly 'extend' that little bit. 

I think that about covers it.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

I'm going to add .25 oz self-adhesive weights in each shoulder pod. Haven't figured out how many to add yet, but I'm thinking two each.


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

I understand that R2 were trying to make the Eagle kit as close to the 44" filming miniature as possible, but do we really need functioning landing gear? Having operating springs doesn't make much sense for a kit, it's just something else that might break. They could have included parts for both compressed and extended landing gear. That way a modeler can choose which he/she wanted depending on how their Eagle would be displayed (landed or in flight).


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

spock62 said:


> I understand that R2 were trying to make the Eagle kit as close to the 44" filming miniature as possible, but do we really need functioning landing gear? Having operating springs doesn't make much sense for a kit, it's just something else that might break. They could have included parts for both compressed and extended landing gear. That way a modeler can choose which he/she wanted depending on how their Eagle would be displayed (landed or in flight).


Hmmm, I dunno. For all the questioning I've done in the past, this is an aspect I think was done right. Mind, it sounds like some slightly softer springs might have been better, or one could cheat like the model builders at Anderson's studio and jam some foam rubber inside the pod for easier 'smooshing' action (so many of the cars built for different shows just had a block of foam rubber under an axle to provide realistic road bounce action).

It may be that omitting the spring is an option some might choose, if they aren't expecting to shoot home movies with their model. 

(huh. on reflection, if one were to put some small 'canned air' tanks inside the passenger module that would probably be just enough weight to compress the springs properly. huh. hm. That would be an interesting coincidence.  )


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Steve H said:


> Hmmm, I dunno. For all the questioning I've done in the past, this is an aspect I think was done right. Mind, it sounds like some slightly softer springs might have been better, or one could cheat like the model builders at Anderson's studio and jam some foam rubber inside the pod for easier 'smooshing' action (so many of the cars built for different shows just had a block of foam rubber under an axle to provide realistic road bounce action).
> 
> It may be that omitting the spring is an option some might choose, if they aren't expecting to shoot home movies with their model.
> 
> (huh. on reflection, if one were to put some small 'canned air' tanks inside the passenger module that would probably be just enough weight to compress the springs properly. huh. hm. That would be an interesting coincidence.  )


I agree, Steve, I feel the sprung landing gear was a good thing. If a builder doesn't want to use the springs, just glue the gear in either compressed or extended position. It's good that the option is there. I see car model builders open doors and trunks and add hinges. It's a shame there aren't many car kits that have the option of opening doors in the first place. However slightly softer springs would have been a good idea and save the builders from having to add weights all the extra work.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

crowe-t said:


> I agree, Steve, I feel the sprung landing gear was a good thing. If a builder doesn't want to use the springs, just glue the gear in either compressed or extended position. It's good that the option is there. I see car model builders open doors and trunks and add hinges. It's a shame there aren't many car kits that have the option of opening doors in the first place. However slightly softer springs would have been a good idea and save the builders from having to add weights all the extra work.


One of the thing that always bothered me about car models was how hard it is to open doors/trunk/hood and have it look good because the thickness of the plastic just doesn't 'scale' correctly. never mind the clear parts. I have a Fiat 500 from the Lupin III series that I need to build but I have to make it banged up and damaged, and I'm just not sure how well I can do that by cutting open the front hood. Blah blah, that could be another thread. 

I suppose if one wanted the Eagle landing gear in fixed positions, one could do so by carving an 'extension tube' for the landing leg, and by swapping it out the leg could be 'full down' or 'pushed up' at will. Or something like that. 

My chief concern about the landing gear is the interaction of glue and stryene and time. I have further thoughts but I need to see the instructions to make sure I'm understanding how it all works. Gee, maybe I should buy one or something, huh?


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

spock62 said:


> I understand that R2 were trying to make the Eagle kit as close to the 44" filming miniature as possible, but do we really need functioning landing gear? Having operating springs doesn't make much sense for a kit, it's just something else that might break. They could have included parts for both compressed and extended landing gear. That way a modeler can choose which he/she wanted depending on how their Eagle would be displayed (landed or in flight).


Thing is, sprung landing gear is something modelers have always desired. So much so that they've scratchbuilt sprung landing gear for the old 1/72 scale MPC kit. For quite a lot of the fans who joined in on the Facebook page, it was kind of a deal-breaker.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Agreed. I added springs to my MPC eagle's landing gear way back.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Steve H said:


> (huh. on reflection, if one were to put some small 'canned air' tanks inside the passenger module that would probably be just enough weight to compress the springs properly. huh. hm. That would be an interesting coincidence.  )


That is the plan for my "Hero" build. There are 1/2 scale compressed air canisters available. Add a solenoid or high-torque servo to trigger them and you're in business. That passenger pod is going to be crammed full!


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Trek Ace said:


> That is the plan for my "Hero" build. There are 1/2 scale compressed air canisters available. Add a solenoid or high-torque servo to trigger them and you're in business. That passenger pod is going to be crammed full!


Fuller's Earth is less toxic than powered paint. Easier to clean up as well. I await your YouTube videos of the action. 

(because, see, the best way to show...ahhh, you understand, never mind  )


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Steve H said:


> Fuller's Earth is less toxic than powered paint. Easier to clean up as well. I await your YouTube videos of the action.
> 
> (because, see, the best way to show...ahhh, you understand, never mind  )


Sure. The canisters are mini 3.5 ounce "Dust-Off" containers. Fairly non-toxic.  They're almost exactly half-scale to the 8-12 ounce cans used on the 44" Eagles. The dust is easy. It's just concrete dust - the same stuff used to make moon dust on the show. I have a camera that can drive up to 120 frames per second at my studio. The correct frame rate for this scale would be about 166 frames per second, but I could fudge that a bit.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Trek Ace said:


> Sure. The canisters are mini 3.5 ounce "Dust-Off" containers. Fairly non-toxic.  They're almost exactly half-scale to the 8-12 ounce cans used on the 44" Eagles. The dust is easy. It's just concrete dust - the same stuff used to make moon dust on the show. I have a camera that can drive up to 120 frames per second at my studio. The correct frame rate for this scale would be about 166 frames per second, but I could fudge that a bit.


120 FPS should be convincing. The thing is, I read somewhere that concrete dust is almost as nasty as asbestos if it gets in your lungs, fuller's earth is unpleasant (let's face it, ANYTHING other than air in your lungs is not a good thing) but does eventually break down and absorbed by your body. 

Blah blah blah health and safety crap. 

I assume you're already designing the 'trapeze' to hang your Eagle from and choosing the place to tie off the wires? That's actually exciting.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Haven't got much done on this the last couple of days, I am to the final clean-up of the parts before primer and paint, nothing really to show. Still thinking about the springs, may just snip off a loop or two to get it to match the "landed" look of the original filming model.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Got the back wall of the command module painted, didn't really concentrate on neatness since not much of it will be visible once I seal it up. I used Tamiya rattlecan paints, TS-46 Light Sand for the main color, TS-12 Orange and TS-6 Matt Black for the door surround and the black details. The white details, including the door, are just bare plastic. The black overspray at the lower left of the door is just a stain where Tony spilled some of his beer and it ate away the paint! (that is my story and I am sticking to it)


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Passenger pod together:


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

The sides of my PP were warped; they were somewhat bowed inward.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

seaQuest said:


> The sides of my PP were warped; they were somewhat bowed inward.


My advice would be just keep the lights dimmed, and maybe she'll never notice.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

seaQuest said:


> The sides of my PP were warped; they were somewhat bowed inward.


Gluing the PP pieces G27 and G28 together first and then gluing that to the floor part C26 may help with that unless they are severely warped.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

CM windows ready to install:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

it looks like you trimmed off the tab?


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Steve H said:


> it looks like you trimmed off the tab?


The tab is still there, it is just the angle of the photo makes it look as if it is not there.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

BWolfe said:


> Gluing the PP pieces G27 and G28 together first and then gluing that to the floor part C26 may help with that unless they are severely warped.


That's what I did. I had to heat the sides with a hair dryer and bend the parts out or they wouldn't fit flush with the angled roof sections.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Got the basic painting done on the pilots. Still have some work to do on the faces and the area around the faces before I will be happy with them.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I really like how that back wall turned out, the sculpting and your paint. Discussions about 'proper scale' aside, that looks very nice, adds a better dynamic than a flat wall with decals would have.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

BWolfe said:


> Got the basic painting done on the pilots. Still have some work to do on the faces and the area around the faces before I will be happy with them.


I'm going to give the molded-in ceramic tiles a coat of Pledge (Future).


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Landing gear done!


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

More progress, still have to weather and paint on the detail panels.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

Good thing I haven't done any more painting on the back wall other than a desert sand basecoat. Since I found a lighting system to stuff into the CM, I may have to chop up the back wall to kludge a holder for a 9V battery.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Main engine bells painted, they had a matt finish when the paint dried but a little elbow grease really made them shine!


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Painted and polished, of course after taking the photo I see that I forgot to sand and smooth the rim at the top of the bell, so they have to be redone!


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey, I've got that Tamiya drill! It's pretty good.

Like the chrome paint. I see someone else whipped out the old school Rub N' Buff on theirs, both are very sharp and cost a lot less than aluminum.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

I've thought about getting that Tamiya drill.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

seaQuest said:


> I've thought about getting that Tamiya drill.


Don't get me wrong, it's not perfect, it runs off 2 AA batteries and it doesn't have that much torque, it'll freeze if the going is too tough. It also doesn't reverse (but you CAN flip the batteries and back a drill out if you need to).

And you have to build it. It's kind of fun actually. 

I've been trying to find different collets for it. I'd like more options than what's given. Being able to use Dremel bits would be really nice.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

Oh, I've thought it wouldn't have bocoup torque, but it looks like it drills at the right speed for styrene.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

seaQuest said:


> Oh, I've thought it wouldn't have bocoup torque, but it looks like it drills at the right speed for styrene.


Yes it does. Fast enough to get the job done, not so fast you're melting plastic from friction heat. 

You might find yourself using a wind of electrical tape or a thick rubber band to help keep the battery compartment door on. It's not weak, but in my case I found that holding the grip tended to pop the door off. Maybe that's just an oddity in my case.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

A little more progress today:


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

A minor modification that will improve the look of this great kit:


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

Coming along nicely.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Got a little more done, glued the lift-off engine bells in place. I have decided to go with a lightly weathered look, similar to early first season.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Oh good lord man, is that an oversized 'rental market' video cassette box or is that just some comic convention bootleg DVD?


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Steve H said:


> Oh good lord man, is that an oversized 'rental market' video cassette box or is that just some comic convention bootleg DVD?


My custom DVD cover, taken directly from the video tape box.


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Was not really happy with the plastic landing gear struts so...


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Much better!


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

BWolfe said:


> Much better!


Nice! Did the exact same thing last weekend, only I used some washers instead of a paperclip rod to support the spring. I superglued the washer, so yours is stronger. I guess my Eagle won't be doing hard landings!:thumbsup:


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Nice! Did the exact same thing last weekend, only I used some washers instead of a paperclip rod to support the spring. I superglued the washer, so yours is stronger. I guess my Eagle won't be doing hard landings!:thumbsup:


The paper clip pins were a compromise, I was going to use washers but could not find any the right size. I had planned to use JB Weld to glue them on, once that stuff hardens on metal, you need a chisel to get it off.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

BWolfe said:


> The paper clip pins were a compromise, I was going to use washers but could not find any the right size. I had planned to use JB Weld to glue them on, once that stuff hardens on metal, you need a chisel to get it off.


Oh, now you tell me! I have some unopened JB Weld sitting on the shelf too. I guess I'll just have to hope the superglue doesn't fail.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

That's exactly what I did with my struts. Much better than the plastic ones, and the fit is perfect.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Trek Ace said:


> That's exactly what I did with my struts. Much better than the plastic ones, and the fit is perfect.


I had to do a little work with a round needle file to make the new struts fit, but nothing major. Now that I have them assembled, however, two of them are sticking a little. Could be paint or maybe some superglue residue. Anyone have an ideas on a lubricant that might grease them up a little? I don't want to use anything that will eat at the styrene.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Don't use a liquid lubricant, as it could leak and do other obnoxious things. Use graphite instead.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Trek Ace said:


> Don't use a liquid lubricant, as it could leak and do other obnoxious things. Use graphite instead.


Never tried that before. I'll look into it. Thanks!


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Never tried that before. I'll look into it. Thanks!


There is also a teflon based powder lubricant that can be found in model train stores, it is used in the gears of model trains and works great.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

BWolfe said:


> There is also a teflon based powder lubricant that can be found in model train stores, it is used in the gears of model trains and works great.


Labelle micro-fine powder, maybe?


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Added Steve Coats' custom window frames to my Eagle, these are a perfect fit!










For those who wish to order a set, this is where to get them:

Send $4.00 USD for each set through Paypal to email address [email protected]. Please add note showing mailing address.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Oh, those are really pretty. Really pretty. One could do a build sans glass with those.


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