# Which Primer Doesn't Cover Small Details ?



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

I have never used primer on any of my kits, and they turned out great. However, i want to start priming my models and since i don't own an air brush ( i will some day I promise lol ) i have to use rattle cans. My question is, which is the easiest primer to use that goes on smooth and will not cover up small detail ? and which is the best grit of sand paper to use to make sure it is smooth before i start painting ? I have heard alot about wet sanding working best. The kit i will be building is the Polar lights seaview. it has those small vents that run down both sides and they look shallow. I just don't want the primer filling them in and covering them up. Same goes for the tiny hatches on the conning tower. the less sanding i have to do, the better.


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## Daikaiju1 (Apr 26, 2005)

I recommend Gunze Sangyo Mr Primer 1000. Used it on a few kits and it goes on smooth, doesn't hide detail and shows up any flaws, which is one of the reasons to use a primer. The Tamiya primer cans aren't too bad either, and they have a fine grade as well.

The downside is these cans are not cheap, but if your kit is worth doing properly, its ok.


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## Beerslave (Jun 26, 2005)

i wanna add to this question...
how does one go about getting the paint from the spray can to a airbrush, without ending up with hands full of paint, lol


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Beerslave said:


> i wanna add to this question...
> how does one go about getting the paint from the spray can to a airbrush, without ending up with hands full of paint, lol


One thing I've done, is use tinfoil as a kind of throw-away funnel.


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## Beerslave (Jun 26, 2005)

toyroy said:


> One thing I've done, is use tinfoil as a kind of throw-away funnel.


 :thumbsup: 
thanks


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

Beerslave said:


> i wanna add to this question...
> how does one go about getting the paint from the spray can to a airbrush, without ending up with hands full of paint, lol


After mixing the paint, I use a large dropper with the
small end cut to size. Not as quick as pouring but 
I don't spill or miss the airbrush bottle.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Thanks for that info.DAIKaiju1 I will pick some of that up, oh by the way, does this primer need any sanding at all ? i am not going to be using any putty on this. If sanding is needed on the primer before painting, what # grit is best ?


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I use MM light ghost grey as my primer.It has smaller pigment like regular paint and does not loose detail.Alexander


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

If sanding is needed on the primer before painting, what # grit is best ?


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Duplicolor automotive primer. Very fine, sandable, doesn't mar details.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

that duplicolor is safe for plastic right ? which grit of sandpaper is good for sanding the primer ? if using duplicolor, can i use a more durable automotive type paint, or should i stick with testors spray ? ( i don't an airbrush just yet)


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Tamiya fine grey or white primer, high quality primer, I use it all the time, pricey, but excellent, does not cover up details.

Buzz


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

thank you, i guess a fine grit sandpaper is needed to make it smooth for painting ?


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Tamiya and duplicolor are fairly similar in results. I rarely sand after using either. Tamiya sells a line of finishing sandpaper that is around 1000-1200 grit. I highly recommend Tamiya as the final color choice if you are using spray cans. I use Testors for a metallic finish, but Tamiya colors are the way to go.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

thank you, i have never used tamiya, just testors and sometimes you still get a splatter here and there, plus it goes real fast. how is the tamiya spray compared to the testors ?


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Faster drying, rock hard finish, smooth as silk. More expensive.


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

I use Duplicolor spray primer - However I spray it into a bottle and apply it with my airbrush. If necessary I add a little lacquer thinner I never have a problem with primer coveing up details

Dave


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## 1bluegtx (Aug 13, 2004)

I use Plasti-kote sandable primer.you can find it at micheal's craft stores it is available in grey or white. It is laquer based i have used it on everything,styrene,resin,metal with perfect results.Will not hide any details even with multiple coats.And can be top coated with any type of paint.I use 600 grit wet or dry paper to knock down overspray and smooth out rough spots.

BRIAN


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## rat salad (Oct 18, 2004)

On my monster models I primer everything with MM Flat Black spray.

I used MM Light Grey Primer spray once and it gave my model a "stoney-texture" finish. It made drybrushing a very interesting experience. One thing I liked about it was a it took a paintbrush really well. Paint went on so nice I couldn't believe it.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

F91 said:


> Faster drying, rock hard finish, smooth as silk. More expensive.


 is that the primer or the tamiya paint that is rock hard ?


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

thanks guys for the helpful information.


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Tamiya paint


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

F91 said:


> Tamiya paint


 i know that my testors metallic silver i used on my jupiter 2 still gets fingerprints showing up on it from the oils in my hands, and it scratches very easily if i try to wioe dust off of it. the tamiya is pretty durable stuff then ?


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## Wbnemo1 (Aug 22, 1999)

howdy, quick bit of advice.....
Make sure whatever primer you use is compatable with the paint going on top of it..example:
Don't spray laquer over an acrylic enamel primer...it doesn't adhere....
Best,
William


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Tamiya is very durable paint.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

i will make sure that everything is compatable.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

probably be the best bet to go with tamiya paint and primer and about 1000 --1200 grit sand paper ?


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## modelgeek (Jul 14, 2005)

Hello! I use Krylon gray Primer on my models never had a problem yet.. I used it on my Seaview kit and it came out fine..I use wet/dry sand paper when sanding I have gone as fine as 1500 or 2000 depending on the need.. I have pics of my Seaview in the Photo Album...Thanks Jeff


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

I've recently been using Duplicolor grey and it seems to work pretty good. Covers well in a thin coat and takes paint well. Brush-paints nicely.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

thanks for the info.modlegeek and dabbler.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

nice seaview modlegeek, i see you lighted the 2 rear fins. how did you route the wiring ?


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## modelgeek (Jul 14, 2005)

Well Modelmaker I didn't light them.. The lights were clear acrylic pieces from a magazine rack at work... I painted them with clear acrylics.. It just looks that way because of the flash from the camera Thanks for the compliment on the Seaview .. Jeff


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

what i want to do with mine is light it in the inside with the small battery operated floral lights. these are 10 tiny grain o weat bulbs and i am going to glue some down on the inside of the bottom piece up front then put some up in the area of the conning tower. that way the light will show through the front as well as the little windows in the conning tower. i am going to drill 2 small holes near the top of the conning tower and place a green and red lens of some kind inside the conning tower to cover the 2 small drilled holes for navigation lights. i want to drill 2 small holes under the belly up front so the lights up front will shine through the 2 holes in the bottom. now to top this off, i am going to use glow in the dark acrylic paint and paint inside the front of the sub and also inside the conning tower. The light bulbs will charge the glow paint so that when i turn off the lights, there will still be a glow inside the nose and conning tower, what do you think of that idea ?


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

I hope that works for you Bert, but fron my experience with the glow paint I have it takes a LOT of light to 'charge' it, and the glow doesn't last very long. I'd test it outside the kit before going to a lot of trouble.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Sounds like fun, Bert. I'd use white LEDs instead of lights, just to minimize problems with heat.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

thanks toyroy, hi Dab, i have a jar of this acrylic i got from the hobby shop and it really works good. i put some on the light switches in the house and they stay glowing all night. i think in an enclosed area like the sub body it should be enough light. i am going to paint only a small area around the lights just to see if anything happens.


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

What brand is that Bert, maybe mine is not as good and I should try yours??


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Bert, 
If you're going to do the lighting/glow-in-the-dark paint thing, you might think about spraying the interior silver, to better reflect the light.


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Not to be a wise-guy, but flat white reflects & difuses light best I think. Flat doesn't show "hot spots".


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

the Dabbler said:


> Not to be a wise-guy, but flat white reflects & difuses light best I think. Flat doesn't show "hot spots".


Good point. Maybe even a flat light grey might work, and look more prototypical, too.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

the Dabbler said:


> What brand is that Bert, maybe mine is not as good and I should try yours??


 i just went downstairs to check the lable and it must have come off when the wife used it. i know i picked it up on the rack that held the tamiya paints, it has a brass or gold looking cap, not sure if that helps any, but it works real good on the light switches , they glow pretty good when the lights go out and glow for quite a while.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

what kind do you have Dab ?


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Sorry Bert, my label is gone too ! In fact it never had one. I got it at my hobby shop also but just in a small bin. I paid $5.00. ( The same thing I bought years ago for $0.50) It was on a hang-card printed in mostly black with green I think. My jar is on my shelf with my florescent work light on it many hours.. It only shines a few minutes after I turn off the light. It IS water-based acrylic though. It's whitish looking but it glows green.
Best I can tell you. Sorry.

PS. Mine has that 'gold' cap too, it's 1 oz. But I also have 6 those glow light switches throughout the house that don't glow. My bat-roost is pretty dark and I have low eaves so I don't get much full sun or hard daylight.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

hmm, we might have the same stuff.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

F91 said:


> Duplicolor automotive primer. Very fine, sandable, doesn't mar details.


Thanks every one, the guy at the hobby shop said this tamiya stuff is a synthetic laquer ? he had no tamiya primer, only model master so i did not get any primer. i found a big can of primer in the garage. the can says COLOR DECOR interior/exterior spray primer fast drying-resists rust. i can't see anywhere on the can if it is enamel or laquer based , it looks like it came from wal mart or somewhere like taht. here is all the info on the tamiya.



I have a paint question answered. I am building the polar lights seaview and my hobby shop didn't have the medium gray in the model master spray paints. I did find both colors i needed in the Tamiya spray cans.
the guy at the hobby shop said these tamiya paints are a synthetic laquer. 
HERE ARE THE PAINT NUMBERS

AS-16 LIGHT GRAY AND THE CAN SAYS FOR AIRCRAFT

TS-32 HAZE GRAY AND THE CAN SAYS FOR PLASTICS

Is there a difference in these 2 paints and are they compatable with each other ? do i use a primer with these paints, and if so what kind ? can i use the testors model master gray primer ? I have never heard of synthetic laquer. I have always used enamels. the hobby shop did not have any tamiya primer. thanks for the help, i haven't opened these paints and i am waiting for some information in case i need to return them to the store


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

model maker said:


> ...Is there a difference in these 2 paints and are they compatable with each other ?...


There is compatibility info @ www.tamiya.com. 

I see your problem. Folks have been recommending the Tamiya acrylics, but they seem to sell those only in bottles. At least, according to their website. Their spray paints, on the other hand, are synthetic lacquers.

Sorry I can't help, with the primer question.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

thanks toyroy.


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