# PL TOS 1/350 Enterprise - Aftermarket Parts Requests



## FyreTigger (May 31, 2005)

Here's add-ons I would like to see for the PL 1/350 from the aftermarket. Hopefully others will add their interesting requests:

1) Turned silvery metal Deflector Spike
2) Replacement support tube, with an angle in it, and attached to a base plate, for wall display of the model. This could be a generic, applicable to the Refit as well. This illustrates the basic idea in profile:
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3) Painting masks for the pennants (promised by Aztek Dummies I believe)
4) TAS Shuttles, just for fun (though I don't think the Long Range Shuttle shown in TAS would actually fit in the bay).


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I would still like to see a real machined copper casting made of the deflector dish. I would buy this in a heartbeat. Maybe include the concentric circle portion of it that it attaches to.


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## FyreTigger (May 31, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> I would still like to see a real machined copper casting made of the deflector dish. I would buy this in a heartbeat. Maybe include the concentric circle portion of it that it attaches to.


I almost put that on my list too. Does anyone know if this was originally metal or wood. And if metal, what metal? I believe I read it was missing when it got to the Smithsonian.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

I'm going to try to make the spikes out of aluminum. I'd also like to try machining the mount with functional pivoting motion. Not sure about the dish though. That's a big piece of copper. Could get expensive.


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

The problem with real copper is that it would turn green over time...


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

How about brass? I don't know if it's any less expensive than copper but the color (IMHO) might be a bit closer.

There are several products out there to seal metals to keep them from tarnishing.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Brass is slightly cheaper. It all depends on what grade you buy though. I need to measure the two dishes to see what size of round stock would be needed. I also was thinking about using sheet and shaping it on the lathe after cutting the rings in it.

As far as color goes, you are probably right. And, brass would tarnish to a darker color which would be closer to the actual colors. More thinking to do on this.


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## onigiri (May 27, 2009)

3 footer lower saucer section.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Prowler901 said:


> Brass is slightly cheaper. It all depends on what grade you buy though. I need to measure the two dishes to see what size of round stock would be needed. I also was thinking about using sheet and shaping it on the lathe after cutting the rings in it.
> 
> As far as color goes, you are probably right. And, brass would tarnish to a darker color which would be closer to the actual colors. More thinking to do on this.


Maybe aluminum then? It can always be painted I guess.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

How about an _anodized_ aluminum dish?


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

SteveR said:


> How about an _anodized_ aluminum dish?


That could work.


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## BolianAdmiral (Feb 24, 2009)

A smoothie saucer section.


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## fischman (Aug 20, 2008)

Bussard domes molded without the little clips. Clips molded separately in opaque.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

A set of supplemental decals for the first pilot version bridge.


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## johnF (Aug 31, 2010)

I know that a certain aftermarket company is looking into making the dish and spikes in cast brass. The pivoting mount for the dish may also be made. This would consist of two parts so it can be positioned or pivoted.
I will find out more from him this weekend if it’s a go.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Ductapeforever said:


> A set of supplemental decals for the first pilot version bridge.


The first pilot bridge decals are included on the decal sheet that comes with the pilot parts set, as well as the Premiere kit.


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## johnF (Aug 31, 2010)

I talked to my friend who runs G-Factor models over the weekend about the dish and spikes.
His plan is to cast the spikes and dish in brass, but he is going to see about having the brass dish part copper plated.
He was going to start molds this week but is busy with some current projects, so it may be a week or two till he starts.
I do the resin casting for G-factor and know that His metal landing gear and ship prop sets are some of the business and these parts will be top notch.
I will post some photos when the first parts are done.

John


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## Nektu (Aug 15, 2001)

that's awesome... I'm in for some of those! 

K


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## [email protected] (Feb 1, 2001)

How about some little photo-etched brass Burke Chair seats for the bridge? They could be little brass tear-drop shapes you could fold and paint white.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

[email protected] said:


> How about some little photo-etched brass Burke Chair seats for the bridge? They could be little brass tear-drop shapes you could fold and paint white.


That's been requested several times and I looked into doing before that ... but they're just too d**ned small to even begin cutting out and assembling. (Yes Duct is re-building his bridge, but doing a one-off is completely different from doing something in production.)


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Paulbo said:


> ... but they're just too d**ned small to even begin cutting out and assembling.


Point taken. Since the chair is an organic shape, would it be possible to make a teardrop that we don't _assemble_, but _push_ into a concave chair shape using a tool like a letraset burnisher?

Hm. I guess it would need a female mold to make that work. Or are we talking vacuform here? Or am I nuts?


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## [email protected] (Feb 1, 2001)

Paulbo said:


> That's been requested several times and I looked into doing before that ... but they're just too d**ned small to even begin cutting out and assembling.


So I won't say anything about the triangles on the back or the seat cushion.  Thanks for considering it, Paul. 

Tom


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

johnF said:


> I talked to my friend who runs G-Factor models over the weekend about the dish and spikes.
> His plan is to cast the spikes and dish in brass, but he is going about having the brass dish part copper plated.
> He was going to start molds this week but is busy with some current projects, so it may be a week or two till he starts.
> I does the resin casting for G-factor and know that His metal landing gear and ship props sets are some of the business and these part will be top notch.
> ...


Definitely interested if he does this. Please keep us informed if this is completed so we can order one. BTW ... how will he keep the copper from turning green? Will it be coated?


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Eloyambres said:


> First when I started my hobby of metal detecting, I do not know that there is a device called gold metal detector that can help me to have easier access to the gold metal and helps me sava time, then one of my friends told me about this device, I am so curious and want to find a good equippment to help me so I search the internet and find the one that I am satisfied with at *detectorall.com* and by now everything goes on well and I have find some gold coins by using such kind of gold metal detector.




WTF? I mean Really?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

eloyambres said:


> first when i started my hobby of metal detecting, i do not know that there is a device called gold metal detector that can help me to have easier access to the gold metal and helps me sava time, then one of my friends told me about this device, i am so curious and want to find a good equippment to help me so i search the internet and find the one that i am satisfied with at *detectorall.com* and by now everything goes on well and i have find some gold coins by using such kind of gold metal detector.


*spam!*


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Paulbo said:


> That's been requested several times and I looked into doing before that ... but they're just too d**ned small to even begin cutting out and assembling. (Yes Duct is re-building his bridge, but doing a one-off is completely different from doing something in production.)


Really all that's needed is something to suggest the chair better than the present tiny cones.

The cones left in place make a fine base already, so a simple flat shape with a single fold is adequate at this small scale to thus dub "chair."

Of course, any of us can whip up something like that our bench now, can't we!


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## Heero Kasshu (Dec 19, 2012)

Paulbo, after you're done making the chairs, can you make a spock with the correct sized ears too lol?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

johnF said:


> I talked to my friend who runs G-Factor models over the weekend about the dish and spikes.
> His plan is to cast the spikes and dish in brass, but he is going to see about having the brass dish part copper plated.
> He was going to start molds this week but is busy with some current projects, so it may be a week or two till he starts.
> I do the resin casting for G-factor and know that His metal landing gear and ship prop sets are some of the business and these parts will be top notch.
> ...


Any updates on if this will be done?


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## Neo-uk (May 6, 2007)

Why would you want a movable dish.
Just cut the original and glue at the desired angle, you're not likely to play with it


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

It doesn't need to be movable. I was asking for an update on a metal dish only.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Havok69 said:


> The problem with real copper is that it would turn green over time...


Spray it with a clear lacquer.


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## Neo-uk (May 6, 2007)

I was referring to this post.



Prowler901 said:


> I'm going to try to make the spikes out of aluminum. I'd also like to try machining the mount with functional pivoting motion. Not sure about the dish though. That's a big piece of copper. Could get expensive.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Well, just to see if I could do it. You know, S's & G's.


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