# Starling tech B9 Sound and light



## steve123

I'm building the big B9 with a starling tech sound and light kit.
http://www.starling-tech.com/
I'm priming and getting ready to shoot the silver. 

Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> I'm building the big B9 with a starling tech sound and light kit.
> http://www.starling-tech.com/
> I'm priming and getting ready to shoot the silver.
> 
> Steve


hey Steve I have that starling kit as well. how are you planning on lighting the seven little lights underneath the star in the headthe kit has seven clear parts with the ends on them the only thing I can think of is cutting of the neck and using the fiber optic to connect to the end pieces


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## Opus Penguin

Does this have at least two audio channels so you can loop one sound and have the other do the voice/light effect in the voice box?


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## steve123

I"m doing the Alpha build on this one unless some of his other clients are ahead of me. Like you said FO to replace the kit's finger lights..That was the first thing I noticed too. 
You could use the starling kit to light the kit's finger lights..but you would lose the ability to make them blink.

So yup, I'll do the FO and post what I do and it will also go into the PDF tutorial for Stan's kit.

Send me an e mail and I can update you as I work through the install

Steve


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## steve123

No Opus. it's power/lights on. and then button or RC to trigger the voice and cycle through the tracks.

Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> I"m doing the Alpha build on this one unless some of his other clients are ahead of me. Like you said FO to replace the kit's finger lights..That was the first thing I noticed too.
> You could use the starling kit to light the kit's finger lights..but you would lose the ability to make them blink.
> 
> So yup, I'll do the FO and post what I do and it will also go into the PDF tutorial for Stan's kit.
> 
> Send me an e mail and I can update you as I work through the install
> 
> Steve


Email sent


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## steve123

Steve


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## steve123

The claws are poseable too....

Steve


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## steve123

Getting closer....









Steve


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## steve123

I think it's looking pretty good. I have the Starling kit installed up the the chest lights.. Radio control unit fits in the arm for re-set access..working on the rest..










Steve


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## steve123

For everybody that has ordered Stan's light kit. The tutorial was updated to where My project was on Sunday it will be continually updated until I complete the first build. That will help you all get up to date with your installs.


Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> For everybody that has ordered Stan's light kit. The tutorial was updated to where My project was on Sunday it will be continually updated until I complete the first build. That will help you all get up to date with your installs.
> 
> 
> Steve


Thanks Stan this kit is awesome. Great plug and play, and for all the naysayers, the voice and light sync look great to me. I cant wait to start this once my Mars Attacks Martian is done.


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## Moderbuilderzero

My Starling kit just arrived today. I'll unbox and check it out tomorrow. I'm glad it's here so I can start building B9! Will post results after I see how the light kit looks.

Sincerely,
MBZ


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## scifimodelfan

I am looking forward to seeing one finished with the lights and sound. I have finished mine but I can't bring myself to glueing it all together. All is just stacked up. I need to bite the bullet and make a decision lol


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## moebiusman

Hello all, First off , Steve123 your build is looking really great so far. It has been quite a long time since I have been here on H.T. I am gonna be following this build as well as others to see how the Starling kit works. Living in Canada makes getting some stuff a pain, but I just got the B9 kit and cant wait to start it. Lighting this kit will make it exceptional. Lighting the head with F.O. and P.E. parts (I hope) will also be a fun task if I can get my hands on them.


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## Fernando Mureb

scifimodelfan said:


> I am looking forward to seeing one finished with the lights and sound. I have finished mine but I can't bring myself to glueing it all together. All is just stacked up. I need to bite the bullet and make a decision lol


In your picture it seems that you made something to reduce the shining. Is it right?


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## steve123

Something to reduce the shining? What are you talking about?


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## Moderbuilderzero

The shining?

REDRUM! REDRUM! :wave::thumbsup:


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## liskorea317

steve123 said:


> Something to reduce the shining? What are you talking about?


I think Fernando was referring to the shiny legs.


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## djnick66

Clear flat acrylic will take care of that. It's not a big issue. You can paint vinyl. Tamiya Clear Flat (yes they make it and I don't mean Flat Base) sticks very well to it.


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## steve123

I didn't do anything to the legs. I did spray flat black _*inside *_them to aid in light blocking..? 
Thanks everybody for the kind comments. Sorry I didn't address that earlier

Dave I'm scared to paint _this_ vinyl..it's almost as thin as a toy balloon and very slick/glossy

So I am not going to paint the out side..the flat black stuck to the vinyl mostly, but it would never pass muster for the outside finish..

I'm hooking up the fiber optic strands in the chest today..then I figure out the lights in the head.


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## djnick66

I probably won't paint mine but the Tamiya stuff is good. Hopefully my robot will arrive today or tomorrow. Your thread has been really interesting.


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## Moderbuilderzero

I've used Tamiya colors on a few vinyl kits and had great results. Used it with brush and airbrush. Once dry, I was able to seal it with light coats of dull or clear coat with no issues. 

MBZ


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## steve123

This vinyl is interesting but scary in a way. The lower parts are sturdy. the upper part is thin and very flexible. I washed everything in purple power then hot soap and water. I wiped the vinyl with isopropyl alchohol. the iso seemed to remove a clear coating in spots, so I stopped and rinsed the legs again in soap and water and _*never added anything to the legs again*_...lol

Like I said in another post, when a kit is brand new with new parts, you really don't want to be the first guy to experiment with the fiddlley bits

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Like I said in another post, when a kit is brand new with new parts, you really don't want to be the first guy to experiment with the fiddlley bits


I'd just make 'em from scratch.


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## djnick66

If they are too soft for my tastes I will slosh some resin around on the inside.


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## rowdylex

Decided to buy this kit from Starling, so I am looking forward to your final build-up, especially the bubble section. Great job so far :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

steve123 said:


> Something to reduce the shining? What are you talking about?


Sorry . Sometimes those mistakes end up going unnoticed when I dare to NOT use Google Translator to pre-check before submitting the post. :wave:



liskorea317 said:


> I think Fernando was referring to the shiny legs.


Thanks, buddy!:thumbsup:


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## steve123

It's ok fernando.. Thanks everybody.

I'm not trying to be a jerk by not showing all of the assembly yet. I have obligations with others until this is done. The tutorial will be completed as soon as I finish the build.

I'll get those covered and then show the rest of you guys what I'm doing.

Dave, I'm going to add weight to the "feet" after I get the electronics sorted out. there is no room in the legs with this build(I put the sound board and speaker in the upper legs)










Steve


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## Chrisisall

Looks like Mr. Nobody got angry...


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## djnick66

That's a whole lot of stuff in there. The real robot was kind of hollow when Dr. Smith and Will were roaming around inside.


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## steve123

He is fully occupied...lol. Once all the leg parts are in place they are pretty sturdy. I used white glue and then weighted them down 'till it dried.

Steve


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## Moderbuilderzero

Unpacked the Starling kit and examined it yesterday. It looks great! Sound is very good, and lots of led points to run the included fiber optics from. All pre wired and ready to go. Just what a novice like me needs.

All in all, I would highly reccomend the kit to everyone. I'll try to post as I build my B9. Primary painting and light blocking should begin soon.

MBZ.


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## djnick66

I got my Robot finally yesterday. I think I will 'vestigate the Starling set up myself.


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## steve123

Make sure you _*really*_ wash the parts...as me how I know..I ended up washing them twice...lol

I have the chest lights done and am working on the finger lights and the eyes today.

The starling kit is a hoot, and it has disconnects in the places you need,.. to be able to wrangle the wires around.

Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> Make sure you _*really*_ wash the parts...as me how I know..I ended up washing them twice...lol
> 
> I have the chest lights done and am working on the finger lights and the eyes today.
> 
> The starling kit is a hoot, and it has disconnects in the places you need,.. to be able to wrangle the wires around.
> 
> Steve


Steve did you have to add wire to the 9 v connector and switch? It doesn't look like there is enough wire to put the connector in the feet and the on/off switch in the chest the way you have it.


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## steve123

My kit has a wall wort and the power lead disconnects from the board. You will need to splice in a few inches to get the slack you need for the battery clip. When I saw what was happening, I told stan and he revised all the new ones with a longer battery clip lead. If you don't want to splice, you could put the batt in the legs or torso but it's going to be tight in there.

Steve


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## steve123

I have the finger lights figured out and finished. I'm going to also light the two "eyes" and the 3 lights on top.

Steve


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## steve123

Here is a pic of the finger lights, details will be in the starling tutorial very soon.









And the starling kit allows the finger lights to blink individually

Steve


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## steve123

After hooking up the FO strands I figured I better add the decals before I installed the lights and buttons...this pic shows halfway done.










Remember, this panel is one of the first things folks see, make sure it looks good.

Steve


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## TOS Maniac

I got the Starling Tech kit in the mail today, and I was delighted to see how well it's designed, and how out-of-the-box easy it looks to put together, just right for a lighting newbie like me. Steve, I'm so grateful that you're doing this wonderful manual for us, and I look forward to it's completion.
The only concern is that there are no pre made LED's that are non blinking. THhere should be at least one, to light up the square push button lights in his chest plate - they shouldn't blink.

the voice activated red "mouth piece" led setup is awesome, just...awesome!


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## Fernando Mureb

Spectacular build, Steve! :thumbsup:

Maybe a dumb question, because I don't have my kit. Are the fingers "lights" clear parts of the kit?


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## djnick66

Yes the finger lights are clear but if you want to light the model they need to be replaced. They are also mega fragile being long and thin and cast in clear plastic, which is very brittle.


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## steve123

Thanks Tos & Fernando! 

Tos the main board has a way to add two more LEDs(the pigtail) I added two non blinkies to this one.

Fernando, what I did was take the smallest brass tube I had in the arsenal 1.5mm, it barely lets the .75mm fiber strand through. and when the FO was run through the kits parts and the tubing, I removed the little ends from the kit's finger lights and drilled them to accept the FO inside then glued them on.
Then I painted them red and black, when connected to the kits blinking LEDs they will blink at random.



















It's careful work, but it's doable.

Steve


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## drmcoy

wow -- those itty bitty bulbs are about the size of a grain of rice. inspiring work.


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## steve123

Thanks, but the amazing thing was finding one after the drill bit knocked it out of my grip...lol I did find it, and the kit gives a spare finger light just in case...

Steve


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## OzyMandias

Steve, quick question as I don't have the kit to hand;
Are the finger light rods in the kit hollow, and do the clear parts come with the kit?
Thanks


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## steve123

The B9 kit's finger light rods are not hollow. That's why I used brass rod to replicate them. I _did_ use the bulb like end of the kit part I drilled them out and attached them to the fiber optic that I had run through the brass rods(see pics above) 

Steve


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## djnick66

The kit part is just a long thin clear plastic stick with a bulb on the end


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## Fernando Mureb

Guys, thank you for the patience in giving to us _dudes-without-a-kit-in-hands-yet_ those exciting info. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## steve123

No problem Fernando.
The Starling manual has been updated again this afternoon to where the build is now.
Just log back in and it will upload the new info

I'm light testing/ blocking taking a few test vids. I'll make sure to run them in and out of focus.. jitter the camera and wander off and on with my dialog so everybody knows it's a build video...lol

Steve


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## OzyMandias

Seconded re: thanks for info dumps. I'm just making plans ahead of time for lighting. I want this kit to be as near perfect as I can get it.


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## steve123

almost done.

here is a quickie vid:







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Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> almost done.
> 
> here is a quickie vid:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]
> 
> Steve


Great job Steve. I had a minor goof, I have my fingers exactly the same as you, but I forgot to put in the top fiber strands for the eyes, and they wont go into the center now that I sealed it. I need to find a new way to light the eyes and hide the wires, because they wont fit through my finger light assembly?


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## steve123

You could sneak them up the side of the neck and slide them into the triangle that way. just wrap the FO in tape painted to match the post


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> You could sneak them up the side of the neck and slide them into the triangle that way. just wrap the FO in tape painted to match the post


Brilliance. Is that how you are going to light the eyes, with the fiber optics.


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## steve123

Yup, the .25 will give the effect of the eyes and upper lights being lit. SMD s would really be the way to light them but you have to draw the line somewhere.

Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> Yup, the .25 will give the effect of the eyes and upper lights being lit. SMD s would really be the way to light them but you have to draw the line somewhere.
> 
> Steve


How will you spread the light, or are you just going to drill a hole and put the fiber in?


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## steve123

I'll "flare" the ends of the FO into the eyes, the 3 bulbs I'll drill out and plug the FO in. The eyes will glow but they won't be very bright, there was no way to fit a bigger diameter FO into the center hub of the brain thingy.

Steve


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## moebiusman

steve123 your build is just awesome, .25 FO is the only size you are using? I am putting together my shopping list for all I need for this build. And also if you could be so kind to tell what size brass rod?? Hobby stores in Canada are not the best, so I may have to find some stuff in the States. Thank you in advance for any help.


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## djnick66

You probably have to order the brass rod or steel tubing mail order. I haven't seen anything that small in the standard hobby shop K&S metal rack. I have a bunch of syringe needles but they are stainless (?) steel and quite difficult to cut.


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## jaws62666

djnick66 said:


> You probably have to order the brass rod or steel tubing mail order. I haven't seen anything that small in the standard hobby shop K&S metal rack. I have a bunch of syringe needles but they are stainless (?) steel and quite difficult to cut.


My hobby store in South Jersey had plenty of 1/16 K & S packs in stock. I guess I am lucky.


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## liskorea317

jaws62666 said:


> My hobby store in South Jersey had plenty of 1/16 K & S packs in stock. I guess I am lucky.


Is 1/16 the correct size?


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## jaws62666

liskorea317 said:


> Is 1/16 the correct size?


1/16 is what you use for the finger lights


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## steve123

Mobius man, I used 1.56 mm or 1/16th brass tube like the guys are talking about. the Starling kit comes with the fiber optics strands in two sizes.

I got my brass tube at Hobby lobby it was in a 20 dollar K&S Tubing grab bag 'o bits and pieces..

Steve

If you can't get brass tube 1/16th heat shrink tubing would work too, it's just more flexible


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## djnick66

Ok because 1/16 is much thicker than the molded kit finger lights. I might try heat shrink. They don't have to be very long at least.


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## liskorea317

jaws62666 said:


> 1/16 is what you use for the finger lights


Thanks for the reply!


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## steve123

I don't think the 1/16th looks bad at all. 









Steve


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## moebiusman

Thank you steve123, that helps alot. And I think it looks great 1/16 , I just ordered a bunch of FO from the http://thefiberopticstore.com/FOS-mainpage.htm. getting that shopping list together. Also interesting how so far everyone who is or has built this kit has chosen to use the retracted arms and not the extended ones. Good thing Moebius gave us a choice or we'd all be cutting the long ones up anyways. Guess most prefer the (at rest look) better.


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## djnick66

No, it looks fine. 

I am going to use the extended arms on my kit...


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## Chrisisall

djnick66 said:


> No, it looks fine.
> 
> I am going to use the extended arms on my kit...


Can it not be modified so you can switch them at will-?


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## steve123

Maybe but it's pretty tough to get them seated in the arm sockets. the builder could do it, but I'm not trusting a client. they might break the torso seams..and sealing those TWICE was plenty...lol

The only way I got them to lock in was to push my finger down the hollow arm and placing pressure on the vinyl until it seated in it's flange.

Steve


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## Fernando Mureb

djnick66 said:


> No, it looks fine.
> 
> I am going to use the extended arms on my kit...


Me too.


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Maybe but it's pretty tough to get them seated in the arm sockets. the builder could do it, but I'm not trusting a client.


I mean, couldn't you surgically remove the styrene connection points for the vinyl arms from the torso, and make new connection points for both sets of arms that slide into place into 'ports' placed in said torso?

Yeah, some work I know, but if a client wanted it, it *COULD* be done...


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## djnick66

You could plug the holes in the torso for the arms, and glue a magnet on the inside. Then, trim the plastic around the arm and cut plastic discs to fit the open ends. Put a magnet inside there (watch the polarity). That way you can just stick on the arm you want.


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## Chrisisall

djnick66 said:


> You could plug the holes in the torso for the arms, and glue a magnet on the inside. Then, trim the plastic around the arm and cut plastic discs to fit the open ends. Put a magnet inside there (watch the polarity). That way you can just stick on the arm you want.


Inspired!:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

djnick66 said:


> You could plug the holes in the torso for the arms, and glue a magnet on the inside. Then, trim the plastic around the arm and cut plastic discs to fit the open ends. Put a magnet inside there (watch the polarity). That way you can just stick on the arm you want.


GREAT IDEA!!!! I'll give it a try, thanks! :thumbsup:


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## steve123




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## Chrisisall

Ho ho ho, SO pretty!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## steve123

Thanks..another day of fine tuning and done.


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## Chrisisall

Steve, a work of art is ensuing here. The orange chest light screams "NOW IN COLOR' 60's perfection.


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## steve123

Thanks Chris.. I'll take better pics after I cook dinner. Stan really nailed the effects.
I've been messing with this thing since 6 this morning.

Steve


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## Fernando Mureb

If we didn't know that this is a 1:6 scale robot, we couldn't say, based solely on those pictures, that this is not a full scale dude.


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> If we didn't know that this is a 1:6 scale robot, we couldn't say, based solely on those pictures, that this is not a full scale dude.


Agreed. Awesome work here.:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Hey! You forgot to put the ears! Poor bubble-headed booby...


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey! You forgot to put the ears! Poor bubble-headed booby...


Silly, you don't put those on 'till last!


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## drmcoy

bravo. video soon i hope.


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## moebiusman

Looks 1:1 scale to me too. Brilliant!!! Yes Yes video plz.:thumbsup: Thats it. 
I dont care if its gonna cost alot to get it across the border. I am sold on the Starling kit. But I have one or two more questions.
steve123 other then the obvious remote control, is there any difference between the R/C and standard version??


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## steve123

Thanks for all the praise, but it's an easy kit to make look nice, you can do the same

Mobiusman,...No the R/C only triggers the voice tracks..you need to turn on the robot, then he will sit with his lights blinking..then when you push the remote it goes to the next track.

The wall wort is a consideration, it lets you run the robot all day and not worry about battery drainage.
Here is a link to short vid.





Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> I don't think the 1/16th looks bad at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve


Steve,

How did you paint the brain to show the heiroglyphics showing. I cant see how to mask something so tiny.


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## steve123

I took a tiny toothpick and used it to put some bright yellow paint in the 'glyphs.

You could drill them out if you had the motivation.

Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> I took a tiny toothpick and used it to put some bright yellow paint in the 'glyphs.
> 
> You could drill them out if you had the motivation.
> 
> Steve


Wow! Need the jewelers' glasses for that one. How do the eyes look with the FO. I can' see it very well in the video


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## steve123

They glow more than shine. the small diameter FO I used dosn't transmit much light.

The finger lights look better without the bulb ends that I installed on them too.
Just run the FO out of the finger light brass and make a bulb shape out of krystal kleer or epoxy.

Steve


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## jaws62666

steve123 said:


> They glow more than shine. the small diameter FO I used dosn't transmit much light.
> 
> The finger lights look better without the bulb ends that I installed on them too.
> Just run the FO out of the finger light brass and make a bulb shape out of krystal kleer or epoxy.
> 
> Steve


Steve are the starling instructions all complete now with your final builds


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## djnick66

Can you butt up a smaller diameter bit of FO cable to a bigger cable? like run the fine stuff up toward the eye and then when you have more room use a bigger cable?


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## steve123

I did try that and the butt end swallows tons of the light.. 
Maybe a bigger hole in the neck pipe or a second run of FO up the side of the neck. It seems like once you cut the FO it's a done deal

I didn't talk to stan today but he has all my pics and notes from last night..go take a look and if you see new stuff he's updated..if not it will be by tomorrow morning

Steve


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## steve123

Tutorial is all updated including a correction about the ends of the finger lights..that was a few hours work for nothing...

The krystal kleer is about dry, I'll take a new vid tonight, the finger lights look much brighter, you can see them across the room now.

Steve


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## djnick66

Thanks. Your build has pretty much sold me on the unit. I HATE electronic stuff. So if its pre assembled and ready to install that is a huge boost. I can deal with other things like fiber optics.

One other thought... can you just run a pair of wires up the neck for an LED that could illuminate the head/eyes and be used to light the finger light fibers instead of running a bunch of fibers up?


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## Chrisisall

djnick66 said:


> can you just run a pair of wires up the neck for an LED that could illuminate the head/eyes and be used to light the finger light fibers instead of running a bunch of fibers up?


That's what I did with the older Starling kit for my Masudaya Robot, worked out well for the brain, but I still used the FOs from the original source; there's not nearly enough room in the brain to source out the FO from there.


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## TOS Maniac

Steve, thanks so much for all of your help!! can you tell a newbie to FO lighting how to attach the FO strands to the LED's?? Inquiring minds MUST KNOW!


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## steve123

We were talking about using some SMDs in the head, but then you have wires along with the FO going through the neck.
One led would light the finger lights, you could use the kit parts and light all of them. but by going that route, they would all blink in unison, or not at all depending on if you used a blinking LED or non blinking. The way I installed it, the finger lights blink at random and the lights in the head are steady. 
The way I connect LEds to fiber optics is to find some tubing that slips over the led.(included in kit) then you can glue the FO into the other end of the tubing. the LED lights up the FO.

Steve


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## Moderbuilderzero

Question for Steve. What brand of clear epoxy do you reccomend for anchoring the FO's into the led pots? Just want to be sure I get something that won't melt my strands into unusable goo. And on the FO topic, did you attach strands in the body to various anchor areas with epoxy, or let them hang free?

I'll also be getting some crystal klear to do my finger light tips. Thanks for that heads up as well.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
MBZ.:wave:


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## steve123

Here is a short vid.My DSLR takes crappy videos..but this will show the lights a little better.






Steve


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## djnick66

Epoxy is inert and won't melt anything.


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## steve123

Forgot to answer that . any brand epoxy is fine (I hate the stuff) but it works well with the FO super glue and styrene cement melt it. White glue works ok, but it's slow to dry.

If you are very careful hot glue will work but depending on the glue temp it's dicey.

Steve


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## steve123

He's all done and getting ready to ship.










Steve


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## Chrisisall

Veeeery pretty. Nice colour choices. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## steve123

Thanks pal! 
I was really wanting to try and see how the long arms looked but I didn't want to risk splitting the torso seams again.
I just used tamiya lacquers throughout.

Steve


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## Fernando Mureb

Very nice Steve. This kit is a jewel, isn't?


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## steve123

Thanks Fernando!
It is a very nice kit. Why don't you have one yet? I'm not being snarky, isn't it availible in Brazil yet? April is a long time to wait..I always want my toys now.

Steve


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## Fernando Mureb

The hobby here is almost totally dominated by RC Models and Slot Cars. The tiny niche where the plastic modeling hides itself is, in its turn, dominated by aircraft and military kits. 

So, Sci-Fi is a niche within a niche and the very few Brazillian hobby shop online don't bother importing this kind of models.

On the other hand, importing models by mail is very expensive due to import taxes (100%). 

Thus, the only way to get the kits is to send them to a Brazilian friend who lives in Texas and wait for him to come to Brazil. 

Snif...


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## rowdylex

Fernando Mureb said:


> The hobby here is almost totally dominated by RC Models and Slot Cars. The tiny niche where the plastic modeling hides itself is, in its turn, dominated by aircraft and military kits.
> 
> So, Sci-Fi is a niche within a niche and the very few Brazillian hobby shop online don't bother importing this kind of models.
> 
> On the other hand, importing models by mail is very expensive due to import taxes (100%).
> 
> Thus, the only way to get the kits is to send them to a Brazilian friend who lives in Texas and wait for him to come to Brazil.
> 
> Snif...


Well that downright sucks big time. 

Though from the work I have seen you do Fernando, you seem to get past that issue quite well.


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## djnick66

You might have bought something off me on eBay once. I sold to a Brazilian fellow who had me mail his kits to Texas, IIRC. Was many years back so I forget.


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## Fernando Mureb

djnick66 said:


> You might have bought something off me on eBay once. I sold to a Brazilian fellow who had me mail his kits to Texas, IIRC. Was many years back so I forget.


Maybe. I have to buy 70% of what I need overseas.


----------



## steve123

That is a drag. You need your own import business!

Fernando's Hobbies

Steve


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## Fernando Mureb

steve123 said:


> That is a drag. You need your own import business!
> 
> Fernando's Hobbies
> 
> Steve


Well... I kinda already have it, being my friend the transporter.


----------



## steve123

That's cool. Fernando.


Steve


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## steve123

Just Got an e mail from Stan at Starling. he has come up with a new version of the Robot Sound and light kit:



Starling Voice Light/Sound USB programmable unit


Our all New Voice Light/Sound sync unit allows the user to load several minutes of multiple sound files, via USB connection, that will play synchronized to flashing LED. Each sound will play one at a time with a press of the button.

Software and simple instructions provided.

In testing stage: RC units will have only one activation button.



Includes:
Completely assembled sound/light unit.
Sound board has 1/8" sound out jack to plug in external amplified speakers.
1x voice LED (choice of color)
1x voice Tube (choice of size)
1x power switch
Pigtails to solder any extra LEDs. Steady or flashing LEDs can be soldered.
2x programmable activation buttons.
1x 4v 3xAAA battery holder
1x software download link after sale.
1x pdf manual download link after sale.

Requires:
Internet connection: to download software.
Computer with usb connection.
Sound files to upload to unit.


Note: Photo displays voice sound/light sync unit only, it does not include other flashing lights for a complete Robot kit and runs on 4.5v.

This type of voice sound/light sync unit can be requested for the Complete Robby or B9 Life Force kits at no extra cost. This option allows the user to add their own sound if they do not prefer the sounds on the regular Life Force kits. Runs on 9v.
I personally prefer the original Life Force kit as it more accurately depicts the B9 voice unit flashing technique..

Please email requests to [email protected] for Robby or B9 units give scale of model.
We should be able to provide units by end of next week as we are in the process of writing the manual.

Unit price : $55.00


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## steve123

Wow the B9 kit is really getting lots of folks building again. I have seen some Jaw dropping builds..



























Steve


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## Seaview

Well, it's a project with some challenges and several variations, but the end result is very much worth it. I honestly think the last kit I built that I was so enthusiastic about was the "Movie Seaview". The Moon Bus, the 1/72 scale E-boat, Pan Am Space Clipper and the others I've worked on since then were all nice little projects, but B-9 is a great little kit!
Yup; I'm in my "happy place" every chance I get to work on them (I'm on my second one NOW)! :hat:


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## moebiusman

steve123 other then the obvious remote control, is there any difference between the R/C and standard version??[/QUOTE]


Hi guys, not sure if my question was answered the way I hoped for. Maybe I need to ask a little different. Do both versions come with the voice fx and steve123 you mentioned a alternate power supply? plz elaborate.


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## steve123

The normal version uses buttons to activate the voice FX the R/C version uses a remote to activate the voice. you still need to turn on the 'Bot with the on/off switch, but then the R/C unit lets you cycle through the 17...count'em,.. 17 voice tracks

Steve


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## moebiusman

That clears up any confusion. Thank you sir. Very cool. :thumbsup:


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## steve123

No problem, sorry if I was vague earlier.

Stan has offered a wall power system also. it replaces the 9 volt battery. I've been using those in my several builds, I like the non draining power.

Steve


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## moebiusman

So I need the R/C, wall powered, version . Sounds good to me. 
I must order now.


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## steve123

It's a very nice unit Stan did a great job.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

I can't wait to get Stan's new kit.


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## steve123

The one that simulates analogue?

I have one here But Haven't fired it up yet.

Steve


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## moebiusman

Hi Steve,

I am wondering if you could tell me what the best way to clean prep
all the pieces to the kit is. will a bath in dish soap and water do to get rid
of the release agent ? or is there a better way? And how long do I leave them in the bath? 
and do I wash the clear dome and other clear bits too?hope you dont mind all the questions, 
just got all my goodies except the Starling kit I will order today.
Thank you for your help.


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## steve123

I washed mine in purple power then dish soap. I had some oil contamination even after that. I washed the parts a second time in purple power and that took care of 98 percent of the problem. I'm doing more B9s and they get purple power then dishsoap with a dash of chlorine.

Steve


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## moebiusman

Many thanks Sir.


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## steve123

Find a big pot that will hold most of the parts and have a colander or someway to drain them ready.


I put the parts in the pot and sprayed them all over with the purple power. Then after a few minutes I rinsed off the purple power, rinsed out the pot, and filled the pot with hot water, dish soap and chlorine..I let that soak for a while then rinsed off the parts and let them drain in the colander. You can put them on a towel after they are mostly dry or sit them in the sun. I washed the clear parts too.

Then repeat...I ain't kidding...lol


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## steve123

I'm working on the first B9 build I did again, the client decided he wanted brighter lights in the bubble.

So, I'm adding 12 SMDs to the head... 7 finger lights and three on the triangle and the two eyes... Gonna look like Vegas!

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Viva Las Vegas!


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## steve123

You almost need sunglasses to mess with these things..my job after install will be to tone them down a bit..

Steve


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## moebiusman

Plz post pics and update us on the head mods you are doing. It will be cool 
to see how you make great into EPIC!! steve123.


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> So, I'm adding 12 SMDs to the head... 7 finger lights and three on the triangle and the two eyes... Gonna look like Vegas!


It won't all fit.


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## steve123

The problem is it DOES fit... Mag wire and SMDs (they rattle around in there) so my job is to install all this hoo ha. Thanks Moebius man, but it won't be epic it will look like a big highway sign.... Pics in a while

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Clients sometimes like overkill.


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## steve123

Here are the finger lights. I made the fingers from 1/16th inch heat shrink tubing. carefully pre shrunk.









On the end of each is an epoxy coated SMD.

Here they all are:








The mag wire is why I'm using the heat shrink for the fingers, metal tubing seemed to be contra indicated. 

Steve


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## JeffBond

I got both the Starling and Mechalabs lighting kits and two robots. It's disappointing that the Mechalabs kit doesn't include anything but the middle chest lights. On the other hand, for a "plug and play" kit, the Starling kit sure looks like it's going to be a hell of a lot of work.  I will do that one first and then happily pop in the Mechalabs kit into the remaining robot and watch it go--I love the way it operates.


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## steve123

That's funny. I think you always need to figure on some scratchbuilding when you add lights to a non lighted kit. The Starling kit brings a lot to the party and while you need to drill some holes and fabricate the fingers, you DON'T need to worry about messing with the electronics. Plug n Play is this context means exactly that. the kit works out of the box, the builder's job is to install it. The extensive picture tutorial should help a lot. (I've seen some light kits come with a piece of folded paper and a diagram or two that looks like a 5 year old did it.)
Starling can't do everything for you. But they have done a great deal to help you make a great model.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

I concur. I'm working with another Starling kit right now.


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## steve123

I decided the size of the kit was making it harder to build. so I put the kit into my de-bigulator.









See? takes up much less room than the old"big" version..lol









Here is the brain case with 5 SMDs installed:









Steve


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## Chrisisall

Jeeze you work fast!


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## steve123

The spirits have done it all in one night...

Heck I just leave some whiskey and lunchmeat out on the counter, and when I wake up there is a finished kit sitting there...but they (whoever they are) really stink up the WC 

I can't lie.. I bought the seamless version that Moebius only sells to very special folks...lol

Steve


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## moebiusman

I am waiting for the Starling kit to get here, another 23 bucks in duty, that
makes the cost 200 bucks in lighting plus paint, putty, bla bla bla.
And the best thing is I dont care, this kit will be a so worth it. 
Steve123 smd's are single mounted diode? plz explain. this looks like 
it will make the head look better, but you think its overkill? too bright.
is there a way to dim them to get the right look?


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## steve123

For a scale look I think the flared fiber optics through the fingers look great. Just don't try to use the kit parts to simulate the bulb ends like I did the first time.


You need to understand that this client always wants MORE..
Look at this Xplus robbie I did for him:









Here is a "Normal" robbie:








Steve


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## Chrisisall

Yeoch! JJ Trek flares!


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## moebiusman

Flaired ends, this is accomplished by heating the ends or by some
other way? As for the compare , pics are never a good way to really 
tell,Always better in person, but I do see what you mean with these two. 
Very nice work with Robbie BTW.


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## steve123

The tutorial that Stan sends with payment confirmation touches on all aspects of the install. Including flareing

I flare the ends of the FO by quickly touching it to an electric burner set on low... (Stan taught me that..lol)

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I flare the ends of the FO by quickly touching it to an electric burner set on low...


What about a drop of epoxy?


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## steve123

I think both are the way to go. you add to the visible light coming out of the FO with a flare, then a nice little globe of epoxy...good call !..I _hate_ epoxy...mutter,mutter, grumble...

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I think both are the way to go. you add to the visible light coming out of the FO with a flare, then a nice little globe of epoxy...good call !..I _hate_ epoxy...mutter,mutter, grumble...


It occurred to me that the kit's fingers could BE like FO if you lit them from behind. But that's a hard road I ain't willing to try and walk...


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## steve123

Stan and I talked about that. The Voodoo kit does something like that and lights them all at once using a single LED in the brain hub. But they would all blink at once that way.
This way seemed to be the best way to provide lots of blinkies and a fairly easy assembly.

What I'm doing here is not that easy:









Steve


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## steve123

I'll be done and have pics in a few hours. I'm soldering the third circuit board as we speak. it took a third board to drive the 7 blinking lights and the 5 steady lights. but the Starling kit is so well thought out that the 3rd board just taps in to the power lead and that's it.

Steve


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## steve123

Here is a short vid of the finger lights, the 5 nonblinking lights are not hooked up yet.






Steve


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## Chrisisall

Beautiful.


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## moebiusman

Yup, that is really exceptional work there.


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## steve123

Thanks, But Stan did the really hard work. He re tasked a flasher board and connected magwire to 12 teensy weensy SMDs for me..I just fitted them in the kit and soldered the hookups.

Steve


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## moebiusman

Just got my Starling lighting kit today WOO HOO!!! got here so fast.
works like a charm. Big thanks to Stan at Starling, and Steve123 for
turning me on to this awesome kit. And now its build time.


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## Chrisisall

moebiusman said:


> Just got my Starling lighting kit today WOO HOO!!! got here so fast.
> works like a charm. Big thanks to Stan at Starling, and Steve123 for
> turning me on to this awesome kit. And now its build time.


Best things, it can go as is, or you can add stuff to it.


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## JeffBond

I'm sure this has been touched on here but what are people doing about the brain and "eyes" on either side of the brain box. The eye lights are some of the most prominent ones; it's a shame you can't just have an LED in each one. Has anyone tried adding LEDs to the inside of the brain box--and is there any possibility there's room inside the central column for all the finger light fiber optics AND wires for more LEDs?


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## Chrisisall

JeffBond said:


> it's a shame you can't just have an LED in each one. Has anyone tried adding LEDs to the inside of the brain box--and is there any possibility there's room inside the central column for all the finger light fiber optics AND wires for more LEDs?


I added eye LED's to the Starling kit, and FO for the finger lights. It's not about how much room you have, but how much you make.:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Steve, my client would like additional noise during the standing around just blinking mode, can I splice in one of these ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200s-USB-MP...706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbf209e5a
It seems easy enough with the proper resistor...


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## steve123

Email Stan. Some of the boards have a place to plug in a jack for additional speakers...don't mess with it untill you hear from him.

The kit I have ready for the next one has a jack. I don't know it it's hooked up...I'll find out.

Take a look, I got all the smds finally hooked up..I fried 5 on sunday...(forgot resistors for the non blinkies)





Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Email Stan. Some of the boards have a place to plug in a jack for additional speakers...don't mess with it untill you hear from him.
> 
> The kit I have ready for the next one has a jack. I don't know it it's hooked up...I'll find out.
> 
> Take a look, I got all the smds finally hooked up..I fried 5 on sunday...(forgot resistors for the non blinkies)
> Final power test - YouTube
> 
> Steve


I was just thinking of powering a second sound unit off the + & - from Stan's. Just for additional sounds. Not tying into if for anything else.


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## steve123

I plugged a powered speaker into the jack on mine..and it was very quiet..it disconnected the speaker on the board, and was playing through the aux speaker..but vewwwyy qwwiet...

We need at ask the maker.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> We need at ask the maker.


Agreed. When I get the units & have the technical data, I'll inquire.:thumbsup:


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## steve123

I think an unpowered additional speaker running off board power will play, but both speakers will have less volume...I talked to stan two hours ago..I'll call him again.

I was all exited about finally getting the bubble lighted and you have to sidetrack me with this...lol

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I was all exited about finally getting the bubble lighted and you have to sidetrack me with this...lol


Sorry, didn't mean to be a booby...:freak:


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## steve123

I'm teasing... but I have no Idea why a powered speaker would have very low volume coming out of the board..I already bugged poor stan twice today I'll have an answer soon..I'm sure it will support additional speakers, but they will need to be self powered

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I'm teasing... but I have no Idea why a powered speaker would have very low volume coming out of the board..I already bugged poor stan twice today I'll have an answer soon..I'm sure it will support additional speakers, but they will need to be self powered


It's a WIP, like Kirk said, we learn by doing.:thumbsup:


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## moebiusman

Well I hope that your client is happy with that. I know I would be. 
`Great job. Now he has all the bells and whistles.


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## steve123

It's running off a 9 volt batt straight into the 3rd board, after I connect it to the main board, I'll adjust the lighting with more paint..and a bit more cowbell...

Steve


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## steve123

Chris here is your answer:
Hey, 
I saw chris's question on hobbytalk. No, he can't connect that board to the 9v connection. That board runs on 4.5v, it'll burn out. It looks small enough to fit inside the other foot. He could solder a 3xaaa battery holder to get away from the 3 button cells that are on that board. With sound constantly playing 3aaa batteries will last longer.


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Chris here is your answer:
> Hey,
> I saw chris's question on hobbytalk. No, he can't connect that board to the 9v connection. That board runs on 4.5v, it'll burn out. It looks small enough to fit inside the other foot. He could solder a 3xaaa battery holder to get away from the 3 button cells that are on that board. With sound constantly playing 3aaa batteries will last longer.


Oh Stan, thanks SO much!! You too Steve! The inside of these 'bots is gonna look like the real thing in Mr. Nobody....:freak:


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## steve123

I've been inside the first one I built too many times..I'm gonna build me an icarus...

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I've been inside the first one I built too many times..I'm gonna build me an icarus...


I NEED one of Drew's models myself. But I also need more workspace...


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## steve123

This is the little one by ..wilco I think.. It has just the right amount of parts, 2...lol

But it was kind of a bear opening up the hatch..

























Steve


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## steve123

Here is the new vid of the Modification.


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## Chrisisall

Not enough stuff blinking.

:jest:


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## steve123

My eyes are blinking...will that do?

You should see the magwire bird's nest just under the shoulders..lol You could add lots more lights,..but it takes some work to add all the little smds. And you'd need less wire installing this in an unbuilt kit. I needed some stand off to keep from the danger of damaging the kit with glue ,paint or solder...*solder..the finished kit's natural enemy..*

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Just kidding Steve, great job!:thumbsup:


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## steve123

I know.. I teased you all last friday night. I don't mind. I really hated opening up a finished kit and it made this little mod a big pain in the tookas. It is scary opening up a perfectly good build..lol

Steve


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## steve123

Ok it's outta here. I'm getting back to work on the other one..It will have fiber optic fingers and I'll show guys that they look just as nice as well as being in scale light wise.

But here is what I did yesterday..
Forgive me but I needed a break from these robots...everythings the same, child's play to build...lol









Steve


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## steve123

Almost ready to ship. and get back to work on the second one.
I have some help now and things are moving along quite well.









Steve


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## Richard Baker

Ah- now I can see how you manage to do so much in so little time!
I need to contact Rent-A-Minon myself soon...


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## Chrisisall

Richard Baker said:


> Ah- now I can see how you manage to do so much in so little time!
> I need to contact Rent-A-Minon myself soon...


Heh, he cheats.


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## steve123

Cheating?..Cheating? My friends, I implore you to listen..
Is it cheating when a politician lies to get elected? and then gets re- elected?
Is it cheating when a tired housewife cooks a roadkill opossum on a busy night?
Is it cheating when all the differently priced gasolines come form the same tank at the gas station?
Is it cheating to sell pornagraphy of truly ugly people?

I'd give more examples, but I need to get back to work on a spindrift..









Steve


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## Moderbuilderzero

Minions! Yay!


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## steve123

They are a mixed blessing.. I don't know what it is they are building but they seem very proud of it.









Steve


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## Chrisisall

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## steve123

Banana..ahh.. 

this limited edtion b9 will be available upon request.. 

Steve/Dave


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## Chrisisall

Steve, I just got my hands on some software & was wondering if I could use it to add or delete some of the speaking choices to Stans' unit. I'm asking because of my clients' need for first season-only stuff for his first season version...


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## steve123

I didn't see this 'till just now(Sun at 11:30am) I just left a message with stan.
You can always call me or send an e mail for faster reply I did'nt look at this board last night.

Steve

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Well I thought it was a good question for the forum.:thumbsup:


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## steve123

Just got off the phone. The board you have is not re programable, Stan will send you his programable version if you mail him the one you have. I''m e mailing you a copy of the manual for the programable unit, you you can see it you want to mess with it..it's pretty easy.Stan did a step by step tutorial on how to add the files.
I have one here but haven't had time to play with it.

I got mine out and fired it up. It's as easy as making a music CD...I love it..My b9 is going to talk like Rochester (Jack Benny's Driver) 

Steve


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## steve123

Here is a pic of the fiber optic finger lights being tested. Big difference from the first ones I did.









Steve


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## hamiltonpl

If I purchase the Life Force kit for the B9 it comes with 17 phrases. however, I would like to change some of these to custom lines I had Dick Tufeld (voice of the B9) do for me a few years back.

Anyone have experience changing these out? Is it tough? What type of interface with your computer do you use? 

Feedback much appreciated. Thanks.


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## Chrisisall

hamiltonpl said:


> Anyone have experience changing these out? Is it tough? What type of interface with your computer do you use?


It's all fairly basic stuff. Simple & cheap Radio Shack adaptors & such. Email Stan at Starling & ask if he can send you some sort of 'blank' version.


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## jimkirk

Can the flash rate be changed for the lower lights on the chest? 
They flash way too fast for my liking.


----------



## moebiusman

steve123 said:


> Here is a pic of the fiber optic finger lights being tested. Big difference from the first ones I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve


Ok Steve123, 

This is the part where I need some help from you. I am at the brain part of the build and I cant figure out how to make it work. 
Specifically with the brass tubing. Did you use one piece of tube running through the whole head 
down to the torso? if so, that means I must notch out two spots where the FO and the the lights in the triangle brain are for wire and FO to come out. 
If this is not how you did it, plz explain the way you managed this. S.O.S.
And thank you in advance for any help or tips you can give me.


----------



## steve123

The way I did it is explained and shown in the manual that the kit gives you a link to. PDF File. look at that section and then if that dosen't help I'll take some more pics.

Steve


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## Genos

moebiusman said:


> Steve123,
> 
> Did you use one piece of tube running through the whole head down to the torso?


moebiusman,

If I recall correctly, Steve123 used extra large diameter tubing to support all of numerous fiber optic strands and wiring for the brain. The attached picture from Steve's work in progress build best illustrates this.:tongue:

Gene


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## moebiusman

Thats it, perfect, a can of beans.....LOL. that should do the trick.


----------



## Chrisisall

moebiusman said:


> Thats it, perfect, a can of beans.....LOL. that should do the trick.


That can's too high, and it offsets the balance. A smaller can of pineapple would work better.


----------



## liskorea317

Genos said:


> moebiusman,
> 
> If I recall correctly, Steve123 used extra large diameter tubing to support all of numerous fiber optic strands and wiring for the brain. The attached picture from Steve's work in progress build best illustrates this.:tongue:
> 
> Gene





Chrisisall said:


> That can's too high, and it offsets the balance. A smaller can of pineapple would work better.[/QUOTE
> Should the pineapple be organic?


----------



## steve123

That's real cute. If you comedians can dig up a silly pic from the build why couldn't you find the pic that would help the guy?
It's the trickiest part of the light install. It's best explained in the tutorial.

























Moebius man send me an e mail I'll make it all better

Steve


----------



## Genos

steve123 said:


> That's real cute. If you comedians can dig up a silly pic from the build why couldn't you find the pic that would help the guy?
> Steve


D'OH!


----------



## steve123

Humor is fine in my threads, you can even make fun of me,(that is easy)..lol 

Moebius man did you figure it out yet?

Steve


----------



## moebiusman

I think so Steve, I looked at the Starling pdf and it did not really answer
my question. As best as I can see I will have to make 2
cuts or notches out of the pipe for wire and FO to come at 
different points. As for the finger lights got that well in hand.
If I missed something plz let me know.


----------



## steve123

Send me an e mail I'll put this fire out.

Steve


----------



## moebiusman

steve123 said:


> Send me an e mail I'll put this fire out.
> 
> Steve


PM sent Steve.


----------



## Mauricio_S

Hi Steve. I´m from Brazil and after reading many post over the internet and even here in the forum, i ordered the starling kit and now i´m waiting for the Mr postman deliver my B9 moebius robot and the Kit.

Just like to say thanks for your pictures and details about the robot assembly.

If possible, you can confirm if you do not painted the robot legs? Or in case you painted, what kind of paint do you used.

Sorry about my english.


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## Opus Penguin

Is there any way with this kit that you can have a separate sound clip that loops the mechanical noise the Robot makes when he is on and not just when he is speaking?


----------



## jimkirk

> Is there any way with this kit that you can have a separate sound clip that loops the mechanical noise the Robot makes when he is on and not just when he is speaking?


VooDooFx has one that does what you want.
It is a bit pricey but great quality.


----------



## mcdougall

steve123 said:


> Humor is fine in my threads, you can even make fun of me,(that is easy)..lol
> 
> Moebius man did you figure it out yet?
> 
> Steve


Hey steve...You still alive... long time no here from... ??
Drop a line when you can find the time lol 
Denis


----------

