# copper tape for rails



## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

Since I have no use for handling assisted cars (magnet cars) I was wondering about using copper tape for the rails on a routed track for tjets. Any thoughts, do you think it would hold up? And if so, where would I get it? How about aluminum tape? Perhaps less expensive? Thanks in advance!


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Howdy:
I too have a routed track A hasse Nillson track to be exact. And I have the same thoughts as you. Hobby Lobby has copper tape in the stained glass section. Plus can buy it with the 40% off coupon I would suggest it over aluminum as it conducts better. and it will also allow the pickup shoes to last a lot longer since they aren't riding against a harder metal rail. good luck post some pics of your track would love to see it.
Clyde-0-Mite


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

Clydeomite,thanks for the info. At this time the track is just a dream. So you are saying aluminum tape is available also? HOBBY LOBBY? Presently became an empty nester, gotta fill the space to discourage them from moving back. Just joking, I love my kids.


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Aluminum tape may be available But not sure where to find it. I was more trying to discourage you from using it due to the better option of copper tape. Plus to properly use rai you need to rout for it it rest in. I know that to do the track I have Hasse used 56 router bits and I had to finish the main straight. 
Clyde-0-Mite


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

I've had good luck with it. I really routed a 1/32 scale track with a 1/8" slot, but I found if I made sure my contacts were clean and my shoes were good and flat, T-jets worked pretty good with silicone rears. Magnatractions were the star of the show, most I could plop on and they would take right off. I experimented also with desoldering braid. On some cars I soldered the braid to the shoe, and on some I used thin wire and wrapped the braid on the shoes. It worked both ways if I removed the springs on the shoes. This slotter figured out a good way to run the various magnet cars with a little wiring work. The blur car makes a great slider and opens up an large area of cars and chassis for the slotters who like to slide.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

WOW, That makes a very clean track.

Looks really good TomH

Boosted


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

Hmmm... I never thought about running magnet cars without the benefit of their magnetic down force.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Sum-bitch my tracks the twin to that one,with rails,lol


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Tom,

Did you use the copper tape from Hobby Lobby?


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Tom,
> 
> Did you use the copper tape from Hobby Lobby?


Yeah I did, Hobby Lobby had a pretty good selection. I made a 1/32 track so I used some pretty wide tape 5/16". It was wide enough to run the H.O. cars also.


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## lissaabostonn (Dec 17, 2013)

I've had good luck with it. I really routed a 1/32 scale track with a 1/8" slot, but I found if I made sure my contacts were clean and my shoes were good and flat, T-jets worked pretty good with silicone rears. Magnatractions were the star of the show, most I could plop on and they would take right off.
.....................


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## TheRockinator (May 16, 2007)

I use copper tape to fix bad connections on my 1/32 digital track. If I have a pesky joint that keeps losing contact I bridge it with the tape, just a couple of inches overlap on either side. I got mine through Amazon. Make sure to get the kind with conductive adhesive.

Later The never tried it with HO cars but remember an article from MANY years ago in a magazine where they made a t-jet track using copper tape. Scottsborough? Something like that Rockinator


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## PumaT (Jul 17, 2008)

*New Copper Tape Track for "Standard" T-Jet Test*

_I realize this thread is a few months old but, I posted this on another site a couple of days ago. Thought someone here might be interested._

I guess, because I couldn't find a definitive answer as to whether or not "standard" T-Jets would work on a routed copper tape track, I went ahead and built one (small, two lanes). This was my first attempt to build a track; so, even though the results were not perfect, I was able to answer the T-Jet question. I made a video which shows the results It's also my first video -- please be kind:






As the video shows, the T-Jets work fine. Of course, these are not racing speed T-Jets -- just basement, cobbled together cars that I try to make run reasonably well. The only "rule" (my rule, which only I care about) is that they be as close to original as possible (armatures, shoes, axles, hubs, gears, etc.). The only exception is silicone tires for the rears. No soldered pieces, extra wires, "tuned" arms, special brushes and whatnot (Nothing wrong with any of that. In fact, I am frequently amazed at the ingenuity and skill of those of you who do these things.) 

I have come to the following conclusions:

1. The T-Jets seem to run about as fast on the copper tape as they do on my old L&J track if the shoes are clean and reasonably well adjusted. The L&J metal rails are a lot more forgiving when it comes to shoes that are out of whack.
2. They slide (fishtail) a whole lot more on the copper tape track than the L&J. I don't know if this is because of the copper tape, the painted surface on the MDF, or the lack of rails that, even though are only slightly raised, would still offer more side to side impedance than the essentially flat tape surface.
3. The copper tape track seems to have to "warm-up" before it functions properly. If the track is idle for more than a few hours, you have to get a car around 3 or 4 laps before the track runs properly -- somewhat like a rail track that has a light coat of oxidation that needs to be worn off. Being neither an electrician nor a chemist, I'm not sure what causes this. I doubt it is just dirty -- tried wiping it down first with no result. I doubt it could oxidize that quickly. It's more like the little electrons have to get excited before the current runs through the tape smoothly -- e.g. "warm-up". Anybody?


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

great video, Thanks for that. I had much the same experience with having to run a few laps until the track "came in". I tried cleaning it with various cleaners, also tried WD 40 and nothing seemed to make much difference. really cool job on making your own track. I think you will get more grip as you run more laps. My track got better the more laps I ran, I used latex paint. If you have some extra paint, you might try to experiment with 80 grit sandpaper and rough up the track around the really sharp kink for better grip. If it didn't help, you could repaint it back to what it was originally.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

there is the answer to a question that has been asked many times before. the video doesnt lie. nice job puma t thanx for posting that. best of luck to ya with the new trak.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I made a test three lane oval at one point where one lane was copper tape, one lane non-magnetic braid and the third lane magnetic braid. Other than Microscalextric (with braids), the other cars didn't like the copper tape too much. I assume if I added a little weight to the front end, it would add more pressure to the pickup shoes and the cars would work better.

I would bet if copper tape were thicker, contact would improve. If it were possible to put something under the copper tape (maybe make it two layers thick?) to raise it slightly, it would make the tape perform even better. 

Two items of note. (1) Magnet cars seem to need downforce (or added weight) so the pickup springs compress enough to let the front tires touch the track and (2) I found when using a 1/8" slot, skinny T-Jet rear tires could "trip" over the slot when the car fishtails in the curves.

Joe


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