# PL 1/350 Enterprise Refit -A paint help/suggestions



## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Hi everyone, Jason here from the land down under.

I haven't built models since i was a kid and two weeks ago i discovered the PL 1/350 Enterprise refit. I now have the kit in my hands, but the past two weeks i have spent trawling the net for guides on how to light, build and paint this magnificent ship.

I have ordered a lighting kit as well as parts from DLM as i want to create my interpretation of the look of the Ent-A, with some throwbacks to TMP. i've ordered Orbital Drydocks 2 colour aztec and paint mask set.

So basically i want to paint a 2 colour aztec scheme on the hull, most likely using pearlex interference blue or a grey colour. But i need to do some experimenting in order to find a combination of colours i like.

Now, the reason for this thread. Basically my mind has turned to jelly after all this researching lol.

I ordered all the testors enamel paints as per the kit instructionsas a start, but it seems everyone uses acrylic paints. I also have spray cans of tamiya grey, and white surface primer.

Question: What are type paint are people using for the hull and aztecs? My biggest worry is paint compatibility.

I have found pearlex pigment powders locally, can these be used in a carrier (clear lacquer or enamel)? (cant link sorry)

I would use the Inspire lacquers shown on Ian Lawrence's website ianlawrencemodels.com/ but are hard to find.

So in summery, i don't know what to do lol. Painting will be months off anyway, but while waiting for parts to arrive i figured i should research the painting aspect of the build.

Sorry for the long post, i'm just excited about building this kit (and yes i'm aware it will turn into a hard slog haha)


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

cryonicjason said:


> I haven't built models since i was a kid and two weeks ago i discovered the PL 1/350 Enterprise refit.


This was exactly what got me back into modeling after a hiatus of about 25 years...


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Be careful about biting off more than you can chew. The 1/350 is a big kit and painting it is not a task for the faint of heart.

The "A" does not have much (if any) of the pearl sheens on it (IMO). When I build my own I am going to simply go with a white base, and a slightly off-white.

As far as paints go, use what you are comfortable with. As someone coming back to the hobby, I would suggest using acrylics as they are easy to use and easy to clean up. Enamels would be fine too, just have to do a bit more on the cleanup area. I would avoid lacquers until you get back into the swing of things.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

The pearlEx powder has to be mixed in to a carrier, clear coat in this case. And don’t worry the powder will dissolve entirely without lumping up.

As another jelly turning thing I’d point to my build thread over at SciFi-modelAction. 

http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/index.php?topic=1421.msg19347#msg19347

This is the gallery link, you’ll find the link to the WIP below the pictures. Hope it gives you some ideas and helps build your own.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

jgoldsack said:


> Be careful about biting off more than you can chew. The 1/350 is a big kit and painting it is not a task for the faint of heart.
> 
> The "A" does not have much (if any) of the pearl sheens on it (IMO). When I build my own I am going to simply go with a white base, and a slightly off-white.
> 
> As far as paints go, use what you are comfortable with. As someone coming back to the hobby, I would suggest using acrylics as they are easy to use and easy to clean up. Enamels would be fine too, just have to do a bit more on the cleanup area. I would avoid lacquers until you get back into the swing of things.


I guess part of the charm is that it is such a large kit and after reading a few WIPs i'm fully aware of the time and effort required. I know the -A didnt have the pearl paints, i'm pretending it got repainted, after say ST5.

In my opinion unless i was going for a screen accurate look, it seems a bit of a waste to go to all this effort and not use pearlescent paints in some way.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Garbaron said:


> The pearlEx powder has to be mixed in to a carrier, clear coat in this case. And don’t worry the powder will dissolve entirely without lumping up.
> 
> As another jelly turning thing I’d point to my build thread over at SciFi-modelAction.
> 
> This is the gallery link, you’ll find the link to the WIP below the pictures. Hope it gives you some ideas and helps build your own.


Stunning work Garbaron!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Congratulations Jason on taking on the Big E! It was the same reason I got back into modelling as well. 

The A version DOES have the pearlescent aztecs, but only on the Primary Hull and the Nacelles/pylons. But the aztecs and glosscoat were toned down for the A version. The Secondary Hull and Neck are just painted with small rectangles and squares of varying light shades of gray. 

Personally, I used water-based acryllic via airbrush for all paints except for primer.
Also, keep in mind that the kit-supplied decals for aztecs and Secondary Hull/Deflector are not accurate.

Best existing photo references for the A version are here:

http://www.startrekpropauthority.com/2008/05/detailed-photostudy-of-enterprise-8.html

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/trek/movietech.htm

http://www.mutara.net/Christies/EnterpriseA.html

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=16470

For model building references, Garbaron's afore-mentioned build log is very good, as well as:

http://galaxyphoto.com/jw_ent.htm

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/trekmodeler/library/Star Trek TMP USS ENTERPRISE?sort=3&page=1

I am also on the final leg of my own A build:

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013?sort=3&page=1

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=403911

Have fun!


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Thanks colhero, greatly appreciated. 

I was looking at the different decal sets available, and dang i just cant tell the difference to the kit decals lol. Anyway shall order the JTGraphics ones, plus sensor bands.

Anyway made a slow start today, and at this rate i will have an enterprise in approximately 50 years lol. Since i cant do much else atm, i've epoxy puttied the neck windows in order to relocate a couple and make the rest smaller. The rest of the ship will follow but i need to glue the saucer walls first.

Back to paints, would the Pearlex micro/macro pearl pigment be any use? Probably not. Might buy a 3gm bottle to experiment with as well anyway.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Still waiting for mail.

Not real precise :/ Ah well, fill er up and start again lol

1/16" drill bit used, happy with that size however.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

In better news, my Orbital Drydock aztek masking kit turned up  though the lighting kit is stuck at the local fedex airport depot until monday apparently :/


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Smaller windows? Good idea. Better scale effect!


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Yeah, i got the idea from here http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipplentcom.html 

Its a lot of work though, and you cant use a dremel like someone i know lol

So more tools ordered and hopefully my lighting kit will arrive today:hat:

The other issue with smaller windows is that the window masks that come with the OD aztek kit will be too big.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Resizing windows - big kudos to you! That is dedication - I didnt have the patience for that. Plus, reshaping the double-windows so that they look straight and clean AND completing the model in 2 yrs or less would be next to impossible. Why do I say 2 years, because at this level of detail it will take that long unless you can work on it 20 hrs a week, and 2 yrs is a long time to stay dedicated - it will be tempting to walk away from it. IMHO I would rather have them be larger and nicely lined up than smaller but crooked. If/when you pull this off I will eat these words... Good Luck!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Resizing windows - big kudos to you! That is dedication - I didnt have the patience for that. Plus, reshaping the double-windows so that they look straight and clean AND completing the model in 2 yrs or less would be next to impossible. Why do I say 2 years, because at this level of detail it will take that long unless you can work on it 20 hrs a week, and 2 yrs is a long time to stay dedicated - it will be tempting to walk away from it. IMHO I would rather have them be larger and nicely lined up than smaller but crooked. If/when you pull this off I will eat these words... Good Luck!


All of the above!

Building and painting the Refit can burn you out .. trying to correct all the flaws will do that too.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. Decided to not make the windows smaller, saving that for the next one haha. 

However,

Disaster!
I have misplaced one of part 65 grrr


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

I think you'll be glad you decided not to do the extra work of resizing the windows! Looking forward to your progress.

If you cant find your part soon I will see if I have an extra one.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Thanks for the offer Colhero, i will try repurposing part 66 first and failing that try to make a mold of part 65. 

May even buy a whole new kit as well, and use this kit as for practice.

My galactic modeller light kit has turned up and i just bought some prewired 0603 smds (cant find prewired 0402 smds on ebay australia)

Progress is going to be slow for a while as i have a 7mo boy to help look after and that takes most of my free time.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

If you can get another kit to practice with that would be optimal - thats how I'm building mine - helps to test all of your colors and build techniques first. But make sure you practice the exact steps and colors that you will be doing on your final. i made some small changes on my final from what I practiced with and it caused huge headaches.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Picked up another refit, plus an Ent-C 1:1400 kit today.

Might build and paint the -C before i tackle the refit, so i can improve my airbrush skills.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

I think ive made a big stuffup by buying testors paints, as acquiring testors enamel thinners is proving rather difficult. Only option atm is to buy the 50ml bottles which will get expensive.

Local toy store has humbrol paints, what are they like to use? Or just use tamiya paints as they are the most common it seems.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

I dont have any exp experience airbrushing with anything but water-based acryls. They're cheap, easy to find and easy to work with. If anyone knows of any drawbacks to water-based I'd like to know.


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## gman223 (Feb 16, 2010)

cryonicjason said:


> acquiring testors enamel thinners is proving rather difficult. Only option atm is to buy the 50ml bottles which will get expensive.


You can by 8oz (236ml) cans of Testors enamal thinner direct from Testors, if you can't find it someplace else.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

gman223 said:


> You can by 8oz (236ml) cans of Testors enamal thinner direct from Testors, if you can't find it someplace else.


Unfortunately they wont ship solvents to australia.

Spent the last couple days picking out which tamiya acrylic paints to buy.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Try thinning with acetone, it's what I use for oil based enamels on my prop builds.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

What about mineral spirits/turpentine or lacquer thinner?


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

I'm not sure about lacquer thinner, but mineral spirits or turpentine will work. I prefer acetone because it evaporates faster and more completely.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

While searching, some people mentioned using lacquer thinner as it dries quicker as well.

My paint mixing supplies have turned up, so now i can actually do some testing of my own. Finally.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Well guys, i had my first taste of airbrushing today 

This is my brush: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...-Brush-Kit-Professional.aspx?pid=161683#Cross

Its probably crap compared to the more expensive ones, but i had no issues test spray testors flat white enamel mixed 3-1 with Diggers mineral turpentine @20psi.

I played around with some tamiya spray primer yesterday, and i think that was harder than the airbrush.

Here's a couple pics of my -C, not great pics but since i took these i've puttied up the seams where the nacelle supports join the secondary hull. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...7&authkey=!AOk1iiHm8R5Rkhc&ithint=folder,.jpg

I'll take a couple more once i've tidied the seams up.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Apparently i cant hotlink from Onedrive, sorry guys but heres a link to the photos: http://1drv.ms/1loFLom

Made some nice progress on the -C today and will begin priming tomorrow.

Heres my airline that i hook to the shops air compressor. I should really mount it to a stand.

And i fixed the refits dorsal windows by drilling out the holes larger. Not 100% perfect but i can redo them later.


I also ordered the paragraphix photoetch kits for the refits, i wasnt originally but i may as well use them, after seeing other peoples builds i will regret not using them myself.

After painting the -Cs hull white i'll be stuck until more paints plus clear parts cement arrive.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Sorry for the lack of updates guys.

Ive had an incident painting the top of the Cs saucer involving micro-mask, so will need to strip that and start again.  I think i need to paint the masking agent on thicker so it pulls of easier. Anyway. The secondary hull and nacelles have had their base coat applied though.

My motivation for continuing the C is a bit low, so i played around with moulding the part i lost from the refit. Turned out rather well i think. (see pic)

Anyway i ordered a secret weapon for tackling the painful masking of the saucer whilst i was ordering a new airbrush, so hopefully that works out.


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