# Mods for Tomy Super G+ and SRT



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

For us (no rules) home racers. Here are some low-cost and easy mods that will greatly improve performance for Tomy SG+ and SRT cars:

For SG+
Replace the stock rear hubs with flange style to allow for slip on tires. This is easily done with a Tomy stock#8996 kit. The axle assy snaps right in. The kit provides a rear axle assy w/ crown gear & hubs, extra p/u shoes, tension springs, pinion gear, and guide pin. $4.89.

Replace the stock armature with a Pyrostok hi-perf arm. $3.95 and well worth it! BTW, this arm also fits BSRT G3.

Replace the rear tires with your favorite low-profile slip-on silicone or urethane versions. $3.00/pair (avg).

Replace the front tires with low-profile slip-ons. $2.00/pair(avg)

Replace the stock traction mags with hi-power versions. Your choice ($6-12/pair).

For SRT
Replace the stock motor with a Fyrebox-1 hi-perf motor. $4.95 and well worth it!

Replace the stock traction magnets with hi-power version from K&J Magnetics. $.25/ea

Replace the stock rear tires with your favorite low-profile silicone or urethane replacements. $3.00/pair(avg)

Replace the front tires with low-profile slip-ons. $2.00/pair(avg)

For all cars
Use Conducta-Lube comm drops. They will greatly extend the life of your motors, arms, and comm brushes. A year's supply(cause a little goes a long way) is $7.99/bottle. This lube will make anything that runs good, run even better. Guaranteed!!


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> For SG+
> Replace the stock rear hubs with flange style to allow for slip on tires[/QUOTE
> I would take this a step further and replace the TOMY axle with a tyco or life like axle.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Good point. The Tyco axle is .059" dia which gives it a little more "clearance" in the hole. Less friction, every little bit helps.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

A good thing to do with any rear axle is to polish the journals (smooth sections) that ride in the frame holes. This can be done easily by gently chucking the axle or axle assembly in a drill motor and applying a fingernail buffing block to the smooth sections while the axle rotates. This is especially helpful for Tomy axles which are .063" dia and can use a little more clearance. The polishing action will remove a few microns and provide an ultra-smooth surface to reduce friction.You can even do it without removing the hubs. Buffing blocks can be cut down in size to fit in the small spaces between the axle and hub. These buffing blocks also work extremely well for "truing" armature comms. Buffing Blocks are available at any Wal-Mart for around $2 bucks.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Buffing blocks sure are pretty handy around the track. Here's a pic if you're scouring the ladies nail polish section...


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## SuperFist (Aug 7, 2005)

I like to use the Super G+ .063 axle. On Turbo/SRT too.
The .063 axle is less likely to pop out in a wreck like the .059.

The Super G+ axle has a single spline in the center and smooth on the ends.
So pulling off the hubs and re-installing them don't broach the hole in the hubs and crown gear like the Turbo/SRT axle when changing worn crown gears.

For rear hubs I like to use AJ's AJS3000B black delrin .275 single flange hubs for .063 axles.
Single flange because you can get the tires out as wide as you can to fit in a tech block.
With tan A compound SuperTires on the .275 hubs.
And the AJ’s .275 single flange hubs are the same OD as the Turbo/SRT hubs.

__________________


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> A good thing to do with any rear axle is to polish the journals (smooth sections) that ride in the frame holes


good point, I also use a polishing compound to polish the axle holes in all cars
t-jets to inlines.

on the 059 vs 062+ axle
I just add axle retainers, if running a stock class, I use the stock metal clip that came on the cars! 

the 059 offers more speed but also better handling for toy tracks as they dissipate the shock of any bumps on the track


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## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

For all cars
Use Conducta-Lube comm drops. They will greatly extend the life of your motors, arms, and comm brushes. A year's supply(cause a little goes a long way) is $7.99/bottle. This lube will make anything that runs good, run even better. Guaranteed!![/QUOTE]:thumbsup:

This stuff is like adding Nitrous to your cars! And the buffing block idea works great too on everything from comms, to pick up shoes, about anything you want an extremely smooth finish on.


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## EBasil (Jan 11, 2000)

I think the Tyco rear axle/pinion swap, with some SuperTires .434 A tires is the hottest, best bang-for-the-buck upgrade going for the SG+. Instant traction and speed for less than lunch money. Color match your SuperTires to the body and it looks good, too.​ 
For the Turbos and SRT's just a SuperTire will do fine. The F1 Turbos are great with a Tyco axle and .434's though, because they get real low and handle better as long as you lightly round the exposed edge of the magnet support on the underside of the car so that it will slide over, rather than catch on the rails when you get sideways.

Of course, there's a lot more that can be done w/o getting really crazy... a mildy hotter arm or a greenwire can for a few bucks, gold plated ski shoes, the tuck-up on the shoe hangers, clip-lowering for the full fendered bodies and smaller/lower front wheel/tire setups.










Zoom Zoom 

Here's an excerpt from a 2004 (!) posting about what we were doing in our Beers, BBQ and Slotcars series at the time. The idea being, fast cars, good fun, minimized arms race:

_Our "Garage Stock" class is the entry class, and we do the least number of things to the cars that we think are necessary to make them great racers for minimum additional investment:
--we buy "tyco rear axle KITS" from Scale Auto. These include an .059" rear axle with crown gear, hubs, tires and pinion gear, for $2.00. We tear off the glued-foam tires, and replace them with either .430 or .434" SuperTires "A" compound tires (.75cents/set) and then swap the whole set, including pinion, into the SG+. This frees up the drivetrain and gets us on silicone tires quickly.
--we either flatten out the stock shoes or install BSRT ski shoes on the cars. We don't care if they're copper or gold/silver plated (well, we care, but you can do anything). We also do some things to the shoes/system that allows the car to run lower and smoother. First, we bend the "hanger buss" that the back side of the shoe hooks onto the car with, so that it doesn't extend down so low (I bend toward the rear of the car) that it can hit a rail when you're running the new lower tires; second, we use a Dremel to grind off a little of the hook at the back of the shoe...also for rail clearance.
--many of the cars also switch to an independent front end, but not all.

Our "SuperStock" class is the same, essentially, but you can run either gold or silver hanger busses and endbell kits, any stock or "superstock" armature, any brand rear axle/tire (here is where the double-flanged hubs show up...and the occasional silicone-over-foam tires), any crown gear, pinion gear, front end kit, guide pin, etc... Just no aftermarket magnets. So, the primary tuning tricks are still just what's done to the Garage Stock cars.

In either, you can do some tweaking to the endbell, but it's not really necessary unless you get an arms race going._​


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Sweeeeeet looking Zoom Zoom!!


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