# 1955 Lincoln Futura



## kdaracal

*I recently picked up the repop of this (white plastic 1990's version) from the local San Jose NNL 2010 a few months ago.* 

($15 bucks) As I begin building it, I would like to build the nicest version possible, coloring it as the blue/green box art. According to my research, this is the first version of the car. It is also my favorite. 

I chose to use Testers gold rattle can with an over coat of Testers clear blue, hoping to get close to the box art. I also found some rubber tires that seem to match the crumby plastic kit ones perfectly. ($2 bucks)

Question: 
1. Does anyone know a better paint choice?

2. How can I "chrome" color the kits' tiny molded Futura logo badging? It appears on the sides and the trunk, molded right into the white body plastic. And I mean it's *T-I-N-Y!* How the heck do they expect a guy to make a reasonable replica with that kind of bone-headedness??!!:freak:

Any other comments or ideas are VERY welcome. Looks like a dog of a kit, but I'm going to make the best of it!! 

Thanks,
Kinley


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## kenlee

kdaracal said:


> *I recently picked up the repop of this (white plastic 1990's version) from the local San Jose NNL 2010 a few months ago.*
> 
> ($15 bucks) As I begin building it, I would like to build the nicest version possible, coloring it as the blue/green box art. According to my research, this is the first version of the car. It is also my favorite.
> 
> I chose to use Testers gold rattle can with an over coat of Testers clear blue, hoping to get close to the box art. I also found some rubber tires that seem to match the crumby plastic kit ones perfectly. ($2 bucks)
> 
> Question:
> 1. Does anyone know a better paint choice?
> 
> 2. How can I "chrome" color the kits' tiny molded Futura logo badging? It appears on the sides and the trunk, molded right into the white body plastic. And I mean it's *T-I-N-Y!* How the heck do they expect a guy to make a reasonable replica with that kind of bone-headedness??!!:freak:
> 
> Any other comments or ideas are VERY welcome. Looks like a dog of a kit, but I'm going to make the best of it!!
> 
> Thanks,
> Kinley


The original color of the car was described as pearl light blue. In 1959 it was used in the Glenn Ford, Debbie Reynolds movie "It Started With A Kiss" It was painted Bright Red for this movie. Below are two pictures of the car, one is a reproduction of the car in the red paint and the other is the car as it looked when Barris acquired it in 1965.


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## idMonster

Hey, Kinley!

You might find what you're looking for in the Testors line of Auto Color Lacquers, Check them out here:

http://www.testors.com/category/136964/Lacquers

HTH,

Gordon


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## modelgeek

I have mine in the photo section here..I painted mine pearlecent white I hand painted the logo on the hood..Jeff


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## kdaracal

kenlee said:


> The original color of the car was described as pearl light blue. In 1959 it was used in the Glenn Ford, Debbie Reynolds movie "It Started With A Kiss" It was painted Bright Red for this movie. Below are two pictures of the car, one is a reproduction of the car in the red paint and the other is the car as it looked when Barris acquired it in 1965.



Thanks, kenlee!


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## kdaracal

idMonster said:


> Hey, Kinley!
> 
> You might find what you're looking for in the Testors line of Auto Color Lacquers, Check them out here:
> 
> http://www.testors.com/category/136964/Lacquers
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Gordon


idmonster, thanks for the wonderful paint resource!! That's awesome!


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## kdaracal

modelgeek said:


> I have mine in the photo section here..I painted mine pearlecent white I hand painted the logo on the hood..Jeff


Modelgeek, Thanks for the great pics. I've seen them before and I have to say, your build is amazing! It was my first inspiration that led me to get my hands on one! I'd love to pick your brain. 

Did you redo the chrome? What color/type of chrome paint for the logo and canopy frame? Did you dip your canopy in Future floor wax at any stage? (To name a few) PM me if you wish! 

Your build is the best I've run across!!:wave:


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## kdaracal

Interesting historical quote:

"As for paint, Schmidt had his heart set on matching the iridescence of the fish he had seen on the Caribbean vacation that inspired the car, and he got it. Press releases and contemporary news accounts described the Futura's color as "pearlescent, frost-blue white." The finish presented each of the viewer's eyes with a slightly different color.

*The conflict of color between both eyes causes what is known as retinal rivalry and leads the viewer to see the object in a third color. The colors are also affected by the light around them. This is why a color photograph of the Futura looks flat and cannot capture the iridescent shimmer.* It also accounts for why no two eyewitnesses could agree on exactly what color the car was."

This guy used real ground-up fish scales in the paint!!

Taken from an internet article.


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## kenlee

kdaracal said:


> *I recently picked up the repop of this (white plastic 1990's version) from the local San Jose NNL 2010 a few months ago.*
> 
> ($15 bucks) As I begin building it, I would like to build the nicest version possible, coloring it as the blue/green box art. According to my research, this is the first version of the car. It is also my favorite.
> 
> I chose to use Testers gold rattle can with an over coat of Testers clear blue, hoping to get close to the box art. I also found some rubber tires that seem to match the crumby plastic kit ones perfectly. ($2 bucks)
> 
> Question:
> 1. Does anyone know a better paint choice?
> 
> 2. How can I "chrome" color the kits' tiny molded Futura logo badging? It appears on the sides and the trunk, molded right into the white body plastic. And I mean it's *T-I-N-Y!* How the heck do they expect a guy to make a reasonable replica with that kind of bone-headedness??!!:freak:
> 
> Any other comments or ideas are VERY welcome. Looks like a dog of a kit, but I'm going to make the best of it!!
> 
> Thanks,
> Kinley


I built one of these about 10 years ago, I used a sharpened toothpick and carefully applied testors chrome silver on the kits badging. Using a magnifier, it still took several tries to get it right.


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## bccanfield

That Lincoln has quite a history

http://www.1966batmobile.com/pre.htm


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## kdaracal

bccanfield said:


> That Lincoln has quite a history
> 
> http://www.1966batmobile.com/pre.htm


Yea, there is tons of resource material on this pup. The Batmobile version I can't wait for is the newly retooled PL Round 2 ALL NEW (not Aurora repop) kit version. I think it will come in regular and snap together. I know that Skyhook Models did a resin Batmobile conversion kit for the Lincoln Futura kit. _*Now I wonder if someone will do a resin Futura conversion for the new Batmobile?!!*_
HA!:freak::tongue::freak:

Thanks for the link!!

New Batmobile for pre-order:
http://www.culttvmanshop.com/1966-B...olar-Lights-PREORDER-RESERVATION_p_1063.html#

Interesting (OLD) conversion chronicle:
http://www.alanoodle.com/66_b-mobile_tutorial.html


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## MadCap Romanian

I tried to combine the AMT Edsel with this kit to get the Edsel's engine and driveline for under the hood. My kit became too complicated, so I gave up on it.


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## scotpens

Looks like the old girl was in pretty funky condition by the time George Barris got hold of her.










Notice the car behind the Futura. It's a 1955 Mercury concept car that was used in the _Outer Limits_ episode "The Duplicate Man," along with a Barris-customized Buick Riviera.

IIRC, the original Lincoln chassis had developed dangerous cracks early in the production of _Batman_, so the entire body of the Batmobile was lifted off the frame and attached to a modified production Ford LTD frame and engine.

Any accurate 1/25 scale chassis or engine would be a tight fit for the Revell Futura, as the Futura kit is really closer to 1/27 scale.


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## Ohio_Southpaw

Looking at the pre-production Batmobile pictures and I have one question. How exactly does one register a "Batmobile" to get 1966 Gotham license plates?


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## bccanfield

Ohio_Southpaw said:


> Looking at the pre-production Batmobile pictures and I have one question. How exactly does one register a "Batmobile" to get 1966 Gotham license plates?


 
You probably have to wait in line an extra three hours at the DMV.


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## Gemini1999

Ohio_Southpaw said:


> Looking at the pre-production Batmobile pictures and I have one question. How exactly does one register a "Batmobile" to get 1966 Gotham license plates?


You slip the commisioner a 50 dollar bill and ask him to take care of it as a favor.


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## moonbus01

I just dug out my 90's repop (mint green plastic ) Futura, and the instructions are missing. I was thinking about starting it this weekend. Could someone please post some scans of these for me? Thanks!


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> I just dug out my 90's repop (mint green plastic ) Futura, and the instructions are missing. I was thinking about starting it this weekend. Could someone please post some scans of these for me? Thanks!


I'll give it a try:

















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Sorry. I don't know how to make clickable thumbnails!!


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## Krel

Years ago I saw a modification of a Futura model where the builder converted it from a bubble top, to a sedan top. It was a great looking model.

David.


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## scotpens

^ I saw a Futura kitbash in a modeling magazine that had been turned into a Ranchero-style pickup with a 1957 T-Bird hardtop and a covered pickup bed. Very nice.

The Futura influenced the styling of the 1956 and 1957 production Lincolns, though in a watered-down form, of course.


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## moonbus01

Thanks for the instructions, kdaracal! Here are a few batmobile/futura pics


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> Thanks for the instructions, kdaracal! Here are a few batmobile/futura pics


Thanks! Those are awesome! 

It's funny. My father was a Ford man, and the late 60's-early 70's style of, say, dashboard knobs and speedometer number fonts stayed the same. Cracks me up.


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## moonbus01

My dad and grandpa were Ford men. Dad still is. It looks like the Futura only had 36 miles on the odometer!


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> My dad and grandpa were Ford men. Dad still is. It looks like the Futura only had 36 miles on the odometer!


That's too funny. Love to see it in that shape in a current Mecum Auto Auction show!


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## modelgeek

kdaracal said:


> Modelgeek, Thanks for the great pics. I've seen them before and I have to say, your build is amazing! It was my first inspiration that led me to get my hands on one! I'd love to pick your brain.
> 
> Did you redo the chrome? What color/type of chrome paint for the logo and canopy frame? Did you dip your canopy in Future floor wax at any stage? (To name a few) PM me if you wish!
> 
> Your build is the best I've run across!!:wave:


Thanks for the comments on the build..Yes most of the chrome was redone with Bare Metal foil the canopy was done with that as well and some of the interior detail were done with the foil,the console and in between the seats.After I did the foil on the canopy I dipped it in Future ..I painted the body with White Krylon primer and the used pearlecent paint on top of that and Future on everything..The hood logo was hand brushed with testors gold and I do own magnifier visor. A tiny brush with maybe 2 hairs on and and a steady hand dude!!!! Thanks again Jeff:wave:


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## Warped9

Can you just imagine tooling around in that on the street today? It would be an eye catcher for sure!


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## kdaracal

Warped9 said:


> Can you just imagine tooling around in that on the street today? It would be an eye catcher for sure!


Yea. I'd love to be driving down the street in a local parade, or something. 

For better or worse, I'm going to chronicle this build on a new thread. Screw-ups, and all. I'll document as I go and make just one post so as not to bore people to death. Starting it today................*GULP*
:wave:


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## modelgeek

You will do fine go for it!!!..Jeff


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## kdaracal

*Best Futura Chronicle yet*

*Here is the best build-up I've found, so far:*

http://www.modelcarsonline.com/Galleries/FoMoCo/1955 Lincoln Futura/1955 Lincoln Futura.htm

*Go to the bottom to see step-by-step process!!*


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## modelgeek

I used this website to help me when I did my build. It is a very good guide for this car..


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## Dyonisis

In response to your original question - I used a toothpick for my 1/25th scale '57 Chevy. I had to shave it down with an X-acto knife, then smash it against the table to spread out the splinters into a fan shape to emulate tiny bristles. This worked perfectly, but you'll want to make sure that you don't have a lot of paint on it, or it'll run out like a faucet. I did this a little at a time to ensure coverage, but also to keep it from making a mess.

You'll see that this has advantages, and drawbacks. You'll have to play around with it to see what the best way to use this with paint. Practice without painting the body first - this is what I did to perfect my technique. This way you'll be able to see the results, and you'll figure out how to do like I did without a lot of hassle, or money for expensive brushes that don't always work the way they're intended to.


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## cokekid

I do models professionally and I use liquid Mask and tape to prepare the car. Put masking tape around the emblem, leaving about 1/8" clearance from logo to tape. Then using liquid mask, brush on around the logo (Remember that where ever you put Liquid Mask will be Body Color). paint 1/4" past tape line. Let the liquid mask dry for 3-4hrs. Then spray with Testor Chrome, or what I use is Alcad Killer Chrome for the actual chrome look. If you used Testors let it dry for about 3 hrs and then pull the masking tape off. Most of the liquid Mask will come off with the tape, but what doesn't you just wash off in the sink. :woohooow, you now have a perfect chrome emblem


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## modelgeek

It is faster to just paint it with a brush(small one ) then to mask it...Been there done that!


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## moonbus01

Since I'm going all rattlers on my kit, I went to my local Hobby Town and Hobby Lobby looking for the lightest white/blue finish I could find.... nothing even close. On a goof, I dropped by my local Lowe's and found something that closely resembles the look. It's Valspar #65026 "Baby Blue" in Enamel. If any one has an alternate spray can color option, please post. Also, I think that the people provided with the kit (original and re-pops) are really good sculpts. It goes to show that halter tops never go out of style....


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## MightyMax

I always liked the fact that the last repop of the Futura, in the standard style car kit box, it had a black painted car on the side panel. The Futura never was black! Someone was thinking at Revell because at the time of the repop you could not get a 66 Batmobile kit or diecast. Only in resin was it available in conversion or full kit form. So for the casual car modeler and fan of Batman you took one look at that box pic and said "hey close enough"! I wonder if that little bit of subliminal marketing helped sell a few Futura kits!

Max Bryant


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## Krel

It is funny how different film and lighting changes the look. Before the internet in all of the color photos I saw in books and magazines, the Futura's finish photographed as green.

David.


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## kdaracal

Krel said:


> It is funny how different film and lighting changes the look. Before the internet in all of the color photos I saw in books and magazines, the Futura's finish photographed as green.
> 
> David.


From quotes on the internet, the car could not be photographed correctly because of the fish scales ground up into the paint. The strange properties caused cameras to make it look light flat aquamarine. The article also said no two folks could agree as to what the color was, because it shifted in various lighting. I'm going to TRY to paint it gold metallic and mist over that with clear blue. My tests turned out too dark, but I like the effect. Kinda the same way I painted the Ironman model from Moebius.


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## scotpens

moonbus01 said:


> . . . I think that the people provided with the kit (original and re-pops) are really good sculpts. It goes to show that halter tops never go out of style....


But the woman's harlequin-patterned capri pants are just SO Fifties!


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## moonbus01

I changed my mind. I'm going with Tamiya TS-45 "Pearl White". Has anyone built the ISWAK (red) version with modified figures for Debbie Reynolds and Glenn Ford? That would be keen!! Ford driving a Ford...they should have promoted that.


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## scotpens

moonbus01 said:


> I changed my mind. I'm going with Tamiya TS-45 "Pearl White". Has anyone built the ISWAK (red) version with modified figures for Debbie Reynolds and Glenn Ford? That would be keen!! Ford driving a Ford...they should have promoted that.


Except that it wasn't a Ford!


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## kdaracal

Mr. Lincoln never looked sexier! Smokin'!!


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## kdaracal

Close the dang canopy, though. He'll end up like Kennedy! Oh, wait......never mind!


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## moonbus01

That photo wasn't taken outside of Ford's Theater, was it?


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## scotpens

He was last heard muttering, "I need to see this play like I need a hole in the head!"

Well, at least it's less tacky than the JFK reference . . . :tongue:


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## moonbus01

Which would be the better match for the canopy frame, Bare Metal Chrome foil, or Ultra Chrome?


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## Dyonisis

moonbus01 said:


> Which would be the better match for the canopy frame, Bare Metal Chrome foil, or Ultra Chrome?


 "Killer Chrome" from www.alsacorp.com would be the best if you're going for the "showroom new" look.


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## moonbus01

Geez Dyonisis, 115 bucks for a 3 spray can chrome kit???!!! Do you work for them ?


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## kdaracal

Dyonisis said:


> "Killer Chrome" from www.alsacorp.com would be the best if you're going for the "showroom new" look.


Thank, you Sir! I love how the guy in the video touches the object he is chroming all through the spray process. It is an amazing product! You could really do a fabulous T1000 bust in liquid transition with that stuff! Awesome! 

I think I'll stick to the bare metal foil. For some reason, at least to me, the lesser chrome _look_ of the bare metal looks more in "scale" with this 1/25th. I'm stripping off the original super-shiny stuff specifically to tone it down.

Thanks again, my friend!


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## moonbus01

On my 1995 version, there aren't any emblems on the car except on the hood. I'm guessing on a later repop they added these to the molds, as kdaracal said his has additional emblems. I'll draw a Futura logo in Autcad and print out some very tiny decals.


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> On my 1995 version, there aren't any emblems on the car except on the hood. I'm guessing on a later repop they added these to the molds, as kdaracal said his has additional emblems. I'll draw a Futura logo in Autcad and print out some very tiny decals.


Actually, I was fooled by the box art. The box art had the "V" emblem on the hood and the fender wings in the back. The actual mold, (Monogram repop, circa 1990's) only had the logo on the hood. I experimented with many paints and sandings, and subsequently sanded the hood emblem all the way off. 

The decal would be a huge help!! I would also like to find the multi-colored logo "shield" from the box art to display on the base I am going to make.
Here's a picture:

http://www.cartype.com/pics/5845/full/lincoln_v8_shield.jpg

I am documenting my build, and will post it soon, for better or worse! HA! Thanks, again, moonbus!!



I'm excited to get a printable copy, my friend! :wave:

Kinley


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## moonbus01

Does anyone have a good closeup photo of the actual Futura emblem? I'm using the one on the Revell box for my reference. It also looks like the emblem on the rear wing of the car might be slightly different, but hopefully I'm wrong.


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## Dyonisis

moonbus01 said:


> Geez Dyonisis, 115 bucks for a 3 spray can chrome kit???!!! Do you work for them ?


 Did you even read all the posts here before you decided to play keyboard commando with me? I suppose maybe you think that $45.00 for a 12 0z. can of alclad is a better deal over a 16 0z. can of killer chrome for $43.00, or perhaps you believe that $1500.00 for www.sprayonchrome.com is an even better price? I only suggested using the chrome and the clear coat - not the $115.00 kit. You can spray this over black gloss lacquer, which you can get from any Autozone, or Advance Auto store. I have no control over pricing and to answer your asinine question NO - I don't work for them! Why did you even bother posting? Why don't you go to the rpf, or resinilluminati where they not only condone this type of member bashing - they encourage it!  

Why don't you do some legwork/search before jumping on here and bashing someone elses suggestion when you obviously don't offer a lot considering your low post count and the time you've been a member here. I'm trying to be productive, not argumentative - YOU'VE turned my simple suggestion into a pissing match!


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## hankster

I Would suggest we get back to a more productive discussion.


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## kdaracal

hankster said:


> I Would suggest we get back to a more productive discussion.


I think sometimes, when a person is typing, and not speaking, it can appear to be meaner or more aggressive than the statement in question actually is. 

When I respond to a particular comment, I always try to be overly nice. Lots of thank you's and happy faces. I imagine I lay it on a little too thick! 

In any case, I can say I really appreciate the new chroming site and getting turned on to that line of products. I bookmarked it and cruised around that link for about 30 minutes. It made me think of some super cool ideas. I know Polar Lights is always trying to do chrome Enterprises and what-not, but we always have to deal with the seams. That is the perfect (and cost effective solution).

I also appreciate folks going out of there way to help dum-dums like me, who sand off their Lincoln emblems, willing to help craft printable decals and what-not. 

Thanks to both of you, Gentlemen!
:wave:


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## moonbus01

Dyonisis, I did not mean to impugn your opinions or character. My most sincere apologies. Onward and Upward!


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## scotpens

kdaracal said:


> Actually, I was fooled by the box art. The box art had the "V" emblem on the hood and the fender wings in the back. The actual mold, (Monogram repop, circa 1990's) only had the logo on the hood.


Right, the Monogram issue is exactly the same as the earlier repop with the original Revell box art, except for being molded in white instead of pale green. The earlier repop has a 1995 copyright date on the box and contains a reprint of the 1956 Revell instructions.



> The decal would be a huge help!! I would also like to find the multi-colored logo "shield" from the box art to display on the base I am going to make.
> Here's a picture:
> 
> http://www.cartype.com/pics/5845/full/lincoln_v8_shield.jpg


The photo you linked to is a quality hi-res image. All that's needed is to rotate and skew it a bit to eliminate the perspective distortion, and you've got a perfect, clean Lincoln V8 shield.


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## Gemini1999

Someone mentioned earlier about seeing a version of the Futura in black, even though the car was never painted that color. Thinking about it, it came to me that I have a Johnny Lightning diecast version of the Futura with Black paintwork in my collection. To be quite honest, I do like it and I have it displayed next to a Hot Wheels 1966 Batmobile - as a display comparison, it's a bit of a conversation piece.

As someone that enjoys futuristic looking concept cars, even those of the past, I do agree that Black isn't the best color for the Futura, but it really doesn't look all that bad. I did a bit of research and I did find out that Johnny Lightning also released the small diecast version in the brilliant Red color as well as the pale Blue that the full size car has been shown in pics of it back in the day.

Bryan


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## kdaracal

scotpens said:


> Right, the Monogram issue is exactly the same as the earlier repop with the original Revell box art, except for being molded in white instead of pale green. The earlier repop has a 1995 copyright date on the box and contains a reprint of the 1956 Revell instructions.
> 
> Thanks for the cool history. I just love hearing this old stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> The photo you linked to is a quality hi-res image. All that's needed is to rotate and skew it a bit to eliminate the perspective distortion, and you've got a perfect, clean Lincoln V8 shield.


Man. I wish I had the computer knowledge to do just that! It _IS_ a perfect picture!


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## moonbus01

Hey kdaracal, Here is my preliminary emblem. I'm still tweeking it. I printed it out to about scale, and it is small. I may have to go back and "skinny up" some letters to slightly improve legibility. Also, though it is not that noticeable, the "V" swoosh is asymmetrical. Here is a 3/4 rear picture taken when Barris was doing the Batmobile. I wish I could see the detail of that emblem better. Looks like some kind of a triangle thingy on there. It shows up on the Revell cover painting.


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## Dyonisis

moonbus01 said:


> Dyonisis, I did not mean to impugn your opinions or character. My most sincere apologies. Onward and Upward!


You didn't impune my opinion - I exploded thinking this was a personal attack against me in general. I went way overboard in my response. Hanks' comment was directed towards me for losing my temper instead of cooling my jets before replying.  I'm sorry for thinking this was a pissing match intent on angering me outright. I've edited my post for language, as this a family forum. I let my kids looking at this sometimes when I'm working on a model. I'm just glad they didn't read my last post! I apologize, as you can't tell what someones' intent really is, but I felt that this was rude and needed moderation.


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> Hey kdaracal, Here is my preliminary emblem. I'm still tweeking it. I printed it out to about scale, and it is small. I may have to go back and "skinny up" some letters to slightly improve legibility. Also, though it is not that noticeable, the "V" swoosh is asymmetrical. Here is a 3/4 rear picture taken when Barris was doing the Batmobile. I wish I could see the detail of that emblem better. Looks like some kind of a triangle thingy on there. It shows up on the Revell cover painting.


I can't thank you enough. Your great research coupled with your skill and kindness is very appreciated.


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> Hey kdaracal, Here is my preliminary emblem. I'm still tweeking it. I printed it out to about scale, and it is small. I may have to go back and "skinny up" some letters to slightly improve legibility. Also, though it is not that noticeable, the "V" swoosh is asymmetrical. Here is a 3/4 rear picture taken when Barris was doing the Batmobile. I wish I could see the detail of that emblem better. Looks like some kind of a triangle thingy on there. It shows up on the Revell cover painting.


I'm thinking, after blowing that B/W pic up to maximum, that it DOES have some sort of triangular tail swoop on the end. Maybe a cursive loop-de-loop. Or maybe, it is already partially broken off because of the work being done. Perhaps what we see is busted up on the end?


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## kdaracal

Gemini1999 said:


> Someone mentioned earlier about seeing a version of the Futura in black, even though the car was never painted that color. Thinking about it, it came to me that I have a Johnny Lightning diecast version of the Futura with Black paintwork in my collection. To be quite honest, I do like it and I have it displayed next to a Hot Wheels 1966 Batmobile - as a display comparison, it's a bit of a conversation piece.
> 
> As someone that enjoys futuristic looking concept cars, even those of the past, I do agree that Black isn't the best color for the Futura, but it really doesn't look all that bad. I did a bit of research and I did find out that Johnny Lightning also released the small diecast version in the brilliant Red color as well as the pale Blue that the full size car has been shown in pics of it back in the day.
> 
> Bryan


I think black is always stately. The build picture on the box side of my Monogram looks so good, I thought about it for a minute!! Someone else commented on another thread, that the Monogram or Revell probably did a black version for Batmobile fans.


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## kdaracal

I'm fighting a color called Tamyia Pearl Green (TS-65). It makes the car look like mint ice cream with no chips!


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## scotpens

kdaracal said:


> I'm fighting a color called Tamyia Pearl Green (TS-65).


Oh? Who's winning?


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## kdaracal

scotpens said:


> Oh? Who's winning?


I've tried no less than 4 colors and clear color combos. I think I'll stick with the green. Maybe light overlay of Pearl White TS-45 at the very end, after assembly, right before canopy install. 

BTW: I don't know who's winning, but I have green specks all over my glasses and teeth.......


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## moonbus01

I've started to paint the people. With that ascot, maybe I should do the driver as suave George Hamilton with a super-tan! I may draw up the Michigan plate too. Could someone post some pics of the Monogram box? I've never seen that version.


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## moonbus01

here's the emblem on red for all of you ISWAK fans....


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## kdaracal

Here is a couple of scans of the Monogram box art top & sides:


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> I've started to paint the people. With that ascot, maybe I should do the driver as suave George Hamilton with a super-tan! I may draw up the Michigan plate too. Could someone post some pics of the Monogram box? I've never seen that version.


I love the idea of the plate! You could easily cut s piece of Plastruct for the plate and adhere the decal to it.


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## kdaracal

moonbus01 said:


> here's the emblem on red for all of you ISWAK fans....


These are fantastic. I wonder if it is possible to do the emblem and plate letters with a "clear" background? Then a person could print it off on clear decal paper, cut it out close to the fonts and artwork, and it would look like the emblem/plate with just the paint of the model showing through. The background would just be clear like kit decals sometimes are. 

Man, I'd love to get the right software and take a class in this stuff. What a great talent!

Thanks, again, moonbus! 

This is truly going to make my Futura unique, despite my problems with paint color realism! I'm going to have this done in time for my August IPMS meeting. It is mostly filled with tank and plane guys. My weird sci/fi fantasy stuff always draws a crowd!!

I'm documenting all the steps and I'll post a separate thread when I'm done. The canopy is done and really turned out cool. I used foil and dipped the whole thing in Future Floor Wax. Talk about showroom new! whoa!


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## Dyonisis

kdaracal said:


> These are fantastic. I wonder if it is possible to do the emblem and plate letters with a "clear" background? Then a person could print it off on clear decal paper, cut it out close to the fonts and artwork, and it would look like the emblem/plate with just the paint of the model showing through. The background would just be clear like kit decals sometimes are.
> 
> Man, I'd love to get the right software and take a class in this stuff. What a great talent!
> 
> Thanks, again, moonbus!
> 
> This is truly going to make my Futura unique, despite my problems with paint color realism! I'm going to have this done in time for my August IPMS meeting. It is mostly filled with tank and plane guys. My weird sci/fi fantasy stuff always draws a crowd!!
> 
> I'm documenting all the steps and I'll post a separate thread when I'm done. The canopy is done and really turned out cool. I used foil and dipped the whole thing in Future Floor Wax. Talk about showroom new! whoa!


 Your wish is my command.


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## kdaracal

Dyonisis said:


> Your wish is my command.


Thanks, Dyonisis. That's kickin'! 

I began dry-fitting parts yesterday. Wow, this kit is a real dog. I'm used to Moebius, now. It's hard to go back to the old kits of yesteryear after doing state-of-the-art products.


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## Dyonisis

kdaracal said:


> Thanks, Dyonisis. That's kickin'!
> 
> I began dry-fitting parts yesterday. Wow, this kit is a real dog. I'm used to Moebius, now. It's hard to go back to the old kits of yesteryear after doing state-of-the-art products.


  I figured that you'd enjoy that! This took me about an hour to do meticulously, so that I didn't introduce any colour distortions, or omit any pixels. I also had to figure out why this distorted on my computer after I altered and saved it. This took about a minute to correct. To add insult to injury - it took me another 45 minutes to figure out which email account, and photobucket accounts that I use for the forums were linked to each other so that I could reset my photobucket password! 

Either way, I hope you can use this for your decal. I forgot to resize this, but I didn't want to alter it so that you can see the detail and resize it to the scale of your model. 

Good luck with this project! 

~ Dyonisis​


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## kdaracal

Dyonisis said:


> I figured that you'd enjoy that! This took me about an hour to do meticulously, so that I didn't introduce any colour distortions, or omit any pixels. I also had to figure out why this distorted on my computer after I altered and saved it. This took about a minute to correct. To add insult to injury - it took me another 45 minutes to figure out which email account, and photobucket accounts that I use for the forums were linked to each other so that I could reset my photobucket password!
> 
> Either way, I hope you can use this for your decal. I forgot to resize this, but I didn't want to alter it so that you can see the detail and resize it to the scale of your model.
> 
> Good luck with this project!
> 
> ~ Dyonisis​


Thank you, Sir! This is going to be awesome!


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## MightyMax

kdaracal said:


> I began dry-fitting parts yesterday. Wow, this kit is a real dog. I'm used to Moebius, now. It's hard to go back to the old kits of yesteryear after doing state-of-the-art products.


You really can't compare a car kit that first saw the light of day in the Fifties to anything made today by most manufacturers. Back then the Futura kit was "Hi-Tech" styrene modeling at it's (then) best!

Max Bryant


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## kdaracal

MightyMax said:


> You really can't compare a car kit that first saw the light of day in the Fifties to anything made today by most manufacturers. Back then the Futura kit was "Hi-Tech" styrene modeling at it's (then) best!
> 
> Max Bryant


Ha! Point well taken! Almost done. I'll be posting it soon. Oh, lord, it's gonna be bad! (as in terrible)


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## moonbus01

I guess the reason for the multi-piece body was so they could fit it into a 
1 3/4" X 6 3/8" x 14 3/4" box. I think they matched the contours of the full size car pretty well. I wonder if someone still has the wood /acetate patterns for this kit? Patterns were carved in about 4X scale of kit I believe. I would be cool to see them.


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## scotpens

moonbus01 said:


> I guess the reason for the multi-piece body was so they could fit it into a
> 1 3/4" X 6 3/8" x 14 3/4" box. I think they matched the contours of the full size car pretty well.


A single-piece body would fit into that box with plenty of room to spare. Early styrene car kits had multi-piece bodies because of the limitations of injection-molding technology. Each kit part had to be designed without undercuts so it could be made in a two-part mold. Later, multi-piece tooling made it possible to mold the complex shapes of car bodies as a single piece of plastic -- that's why you see mold seams on the outside surfaces of the bodies of modern car kits.

The Revell/Monogram Futura looks proportionally accurate, but it's a tad smaller than true 1/25 scale. Going by the wheelbase measurement, it's close to 1/27.


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## Dyonisis

scotpens said:


> A single-piece body would fit into that box with plenty of room to spare. Early styrene car kits had multi-piece bodies because of the limitations of injection-molding technology. Each kit part had to be designed without undercuts so it could be made in a two-part mold. Later, multi-piece tooling made it possible to mold the complex shapes of car bodies as a single piece of plastic -- that's why you see mold seams on the outside surfaces of the bodies of modern car kits.
> 
> The Revell/Monogram Futura looks proportionally accurate, but it's a tad smaller than true 1/25 scale. Going by the wheelbase measurement, it's close to 1/27.


Correct. This was a mold injection process that was too intricate for the simple steel dies of the day. They had to be broken down into the main assemblies for this reason. Extrusion dies have come a long way since those days. The push pins in the old dies left small marks on the inside of the parts also. This is still used to this day, but with modern laser cutting and the advent of monomer additives in polystyrene make for a better, more complex design and resilient, flexable kit. These aren't as prone to breakage as the models of the fifties. The polystyrene that we use today was developed in the seventies when we had better technology to produce less brittle plastics and a wider variety of them. This is why ealier models that were more complicated in their design were broken down into multiple sections, so that they could be more easily cast and removed from the mold without breakage.


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