# Tecumseh LEV120 bleeding gas sitting still



## mraktrak (Jul 6, 2010)

In September of 2005 I bought a Toro High Wheel Walk Behind 22" variable speed "Walk-Behind" mower with a Tecumseh engine: 120 LEV 6.5 hp 195cc DOM 02318 1166. I have maintained it rigorously, following the prescribed instructions in the manual to a T. 

I fractured my skull and was unable to use the mower, so My wife used it for a couple of years sparingly, and neighbours mowed most of the lawn for us, so it probably has only about 20 hours of use on it. Last year my wife didn't burn off the fuel at the end of the year, so I was not surprised when it didn't start. 

This year I feel up to mowing the grass, especially since the mower does all the work and following it is like using a "walker" that I don't have to push! 

I replaced the air filter, flushed out the fuel, replaced the oil, replaced the gasket for the muffler and the one for the carburetor. Now it's worse!

Fuel leaked through the air filter just as soon as I pulled the cord to start the mower, after priming three times as prescribed in the Toro Instructions. When I pulled off the filter, I could see that the fuel was coming from a thin red plastic tube that looks like the kind you get with WD-40, or Liquid Wrench, you know the kind that you stick in the nozzle of the aforementioned so that you can deliver spray to the exact spot you wish it to go, instead of it having the spray disperse otherwise. 

I took the carburetor off, rechecked the innards, retightened all nuts, screws and bolts assuring no possible gaps at gasket points, and then primed the "bulb." As soon as I pulled the cord, fuel spilled. After taking off the air filter, one can plainly see the same thin red tube continues to pour forth. It seems to be flowing at the same rate as would be expected to supply the mower, if functioning correctly, to complete it's full tank of fuel consumption in a regular mowing session. 

In other words, if the tank were filled with gas, and the mower were on a flat surface, the fuel leaking trough the red tube would deplete the tank of fuel in about 20 minutes, the same length of time that would pass if nothing were wrong and one was cutting the grass with a perfectly functioning machine.

The neighbour who had been mowing the lawn in our front yard is offering me a Sears model "ignition-switch-start" lawnmower of similar age, but with ostensibly hundreds of hours of use on it, in exchange for mine, which he alleges will cost more than it is worth to fix, and that its problems will reoccur once fixed, because Tecumseh carburetors are notorious for carburetor problems unlike Craftsman's mower motors.

I have tools for all occasions and requirements and am not scared to use them, but no amount of tools can do a job when their user does not comprehend the problem!

Thanks to anyone who may have a clue.

Best Regards,
Walter

What can I do? What should do? [email protected]


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## phillipmc (Jan 27, 2008)

This is normally a simple fix. besides the tools you used to remove the carb once already you will need the wire from a bread tie, and a pair of needle nose pliers and a wrench to remove the bowl nut at the very bottom of the carb, and a can of good carb cleaner ( the stuff in the blue and black can at walmart works well and is cheap) Once the carb is off you will need to remove the nut and remove the bowl from the carb. after you will need to locate the hinge pin that goes through the float with a pair of needle nose pliers and lay them on something so you dont lose it. Remove the float with the needle attached. Inspect the needle for any dirt or debris if present clean it, remove the needle from the float (that should be self explanatory) then hold the float close to your ear and shake listening carefully for a rattle or slosh inside it. if you dont hear anything then GOOD that means the float isn't leaking and its usable still. next you will need to spray a little carb cleaner into the hole that the needle was in trying to flush any dirt or debris out then you will need to blow out all the carb cleaner asap with compressed air (yes i forgot to mention that) also do it carefully so you dont blow the little rubber o-ring out that is the seat. Once that is done get the bread tie and burn or strip the plastic stuff off of it so its just the wire left and use that to poke through the little jet holes and such that you can. and then clean everything. put the needle back on the float like it was then assemble the float with needle back on the carb and hold upside down and check to make sure the float is sitting level, If it is level and after you make sure all the carb cleaner has been removed from everything put your mouth on the part where the fuel enters and suck hard and place your tounge over the hole to see if it is holding a vacume if it is then you are in buisness if not then you will need to replace the needle and seat. The entire kit for these carbs are not but about $10. Put carb back on mower and try to start as normal. hope this helps. also if im leaving out anything anyone please feel free to chime in.


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## jsouth (Jan 31, 2008)

I would use brake clean instead of carb. spray.Carb spray will swell up the rubber parts in the carb.,the bowl o ring and the rubber seat.The part # for the carb. kit 631021B.Hope this helps.Also if you replace the seat it has a groove side which goes down in the carb.

Jerry


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

mraktrak said:


> The neighbor who had been mowing the lawn in our front yard is offering me a Sears model "ignition-switch-start" lawnmower of similar age, but with ostensibly hundreds of hours of use on it, in exchange for mine, which he alleges will cost more than it is worth to fix, and that its problems will reoccur once fixed, because Tecumseh carburetors are notorious for carburetor problems unlike Craftsman's mower motors.[email protected]


Craftsman mowers with "Craftsman Engines" are basically the same engine as is on your Toro. Some of the newer Sears mowers will have other brands of engines, but are generally tagged with the manufacturer of the engine. If it has a Craftsman engine, it's most likely a Tecumseh engine, much like the one found on your mower.

Once properly repaired, the carburetor should not have a reoccurring issue, unless of course gas is left in it for an extended period again. The cost to repair should nowhere near exceed the value of the mower. This type of repair typically will cost from $40.00 to $75.00 to have repaired, certainly much less if you do the repair yourself.

Make sure the float bowl vent is clear, if it's plugged, the carburetor will flood regardless of the condition of the float and needle or seat. Of course those areas should be checked as well. Follow phillipmc advise being sure to check the bowl vent and you should be good to mow once again.


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## rich_benson (Jul 3, 2010)

*this will fix it*

I had the same exact problem. The float inside the carburetor is not adjusted to the proper level which causes the fuel to run out constantly. Remove the carb, remove bowl nut, float looks like a toilet seat, make sure when you turn the carb upside down that the float is 11/16 off of the o-ring, use a 11/16 drill bit, lay it accross the o-ring to measure it.

Also, shake the float, if you hear liquid in it, then replace it, they are only a couple of bucks.

If the float doesnt have liquid in it, it can be reused, take a screw driver and adjust the metal tab on the float until it levitates 11/16 off of o-ring when carb is upside down.


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