# Suddenly I can't paint



## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Yeah, turns out that this year I can't paint I guess.

:freak:

I've always had good luck painting but today I totally botched two standard rattle can paint jobs.

Maybe the paint is reacting to the resin I am shooting over but it hasn't in the past.

Frustrating.


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## grungerockjeepe (Jan 8, 2007)

what kind of resin, Doba? and what kind of paint?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

What kind of botch? Any pics???? :devil:


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Was Alumilite white resin, shot over with Rustoleum Painter's Touch gloss. The orange went on smooth enough and then began to separate and run along the hood, roof & trunk, enough that it looks as if it was put on too heavy (although that was not the case). The blue I used prickled up and ended up looking sort of lumpy. Not a good scene here.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Drips runs and errors*

THATS it!

Crustoleum = icky!...unless ya got bad prep or contaminents remaining on the body's surface... 

Dont care what other people say Doba. I've been screwing up lil cars and big cars all my life. Rustoleum, despite their add campaign, has yet to make a top coat thats worth the aggrevation. Every once in a while I'll back slide and think that to myself that maybe they finally invented paint...but ...well...y'all know what happened. Yup! Thats right!

I have one more can of the crap with just over one slotcars worth of paint spoofed out of it sitting on my garage bomb can shelf

Unless you got yard furniture, exterior iron work, or a scuzzy old boat trailer I'd try something else.

Actually Doba, Rustoleum has it's place but IMHO slot cars arent that place. It needs a good surface to bite on. Etch primer, sand or shot blasted, what have you. I'm certain you can fuss, fidget and cooperate it on to prove me wrong....but thats kinda my point. There's lot's of other things out that might actually stick and go down with less annoyance.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Can you get us any close ups in 10megpx+ ? 
I wanna use that orange peel for my wallpaper this week. 

I actually use Rustoleum too. That Caribbean Blue is what I use for Petty blue.

BUT, some other very successful painters on this board, uh HUM, (Hilltop), 
prefers using Duplicolor touch up paints. They dry faster, and generally come in 
colors that customizers would like.
However, I just can't go out and change over my whole rattle can collection,
and I usually paint race cars, not street cruisers. 
I find a better selection of race colors in paints such as Rustoleum.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*I've fudged up a few with old Rusty-O...*

I myself shy away from it now. I've done likewise with Testes too (cue the Beavis & Butthead laughing )... Hit'n miss with some paints even when ya prime'em. I do however, have ALOT better luck with Tamiya and Duplicolor. One exception though is that despite the lack of success with Testor's *colors*... I swear by their metallic silver spray as my go-to primer nearly 95% of the time (go figure). It just works really good for me. I remember with a couple resincasts I was working on (that I did not bother to prime)... the paint seemingly "beaded-up"... like water on a waxed 1:1 vehicle finish. I thought I could get away without priming on these bods, as they were similar colors to the paint, but NOPE ! ! So, when it happened, I dropped them in the boo-boo jar and stripped'em down.... gave'em a light scuff... primed with Testors silver.... then I had better luck with adhesion. nd


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## grungerockjeepe (Jan 8, 2007)

I had trouble with alumilite white coming out to a nice consistent hardness. Some of my castings wound up kinda rubbery. Its too bad, because that stuff cures a little slower making it ideal for a block mold filled with multiple accessory parts....


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

We *are* all scrubbing off the mold-release coating with hot water and detergent, or thinner, or naphtha or something, prior to pressing the button, right? I feel silly bringing it up to such an experienced group, but it _is_ an easy thing to forget, especially if you're eager to get started psssshting.

I always preferred Krylon (lacquer) to Rustoleum (enamel), but now, apparently, Rustoleum has taken over Krylon and it's _all_ enamel. Sigh. Time to move on to Duplicolor, I guess.

-- D


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Dslot said:


> We *are* all scrubbing off the mold-release coating with hot water and detergent, or thinner, or naphtha or something, prior to pressing the button, right? I feel silly bringing it up to such an experienced group, but it _is_ an easy thing to forget, especially if you're eager to get started psssshting.
> 
> I always preferred Krylon (lacquer) to Rustoleum (enamel), but now, apparently, Rustoleum has taken over Krylon and it's _all_ enamel. Sigh. Time to move on to Duplicolor, I guess.
> 
> -- D


This is not a bad thing D.

You'll be pleasantly surprised.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah I miss painting...Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah*

Doba,

Rattle, Rattle????? 

It is to cold in Nebraska to paint and has been for a while now. 

Bob...Kustom Kolors by House of Kolor (stocked up on it I did)...zilla


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Big 'ol Cup of SUCK for me - free refills all night long! - lol


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Doba, 
Get on over to the Dupli color, Krylon, Testor's and some of the cheap enamels you find at a -Mart. Tried Rustecrap back in the day on resins, Aurora and TYCO bods and had too many issues to deal with. Love the Dupli colors, dry fast, can take a clear enamel and looks great. Generally put down the color coat(s), paint details, clear with a good light coat of enamel. Once it sets up, on with the decals and whatnot, then a dip or two in Future. Finished! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

If it doesnt cause brain damage in your childrens children...ya might as well slog it on with a roller or brush!

When spraying, the bigger and scarier the skull and bones label, the better the finished product usually is.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Yeah - These rattlers are going in the trash.


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## kcl (Dec 27, 2009)

Don't feel bad doba, every time i would go try to paint a car
I'd get the paint and a gallon jug of mineral sprits just in case.
I even bought stainless steel bowls cause i kept melting the
plastic ones cause i striped so much paint!!

kcl


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*maybe warm the can in hot water for just a bit?????*



1976Cordoba said:


> Yeah - These rattlers are going in the trash.


I have taken spray cans in the winter and heated them up with a hair dryer but, not sure if this is legal in the USA 50 States so, will try it right now as I am typing this to make sure it is Safe "BOOM"...NOPE don't do this.

When I didn't have bodies painted up in advance (painted a bunch up this summer) for Winter use, have been known to heat up my paint bottles on my heater in the garage, my airbrush and then Bama, lama, ding, ding, dong just GO FOR IT!

Bob...boom, boom bob...zilla


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

i heated up all my spray cans for like an hour or so.. that way i never have any problems painting cars. maybe 1 out of 25 times that i messed up!! i have this small portable heater and put 5 cans on top (i set it on low) been doing that for a long time and i would put all my bodies that are getting ready to be painted on top of old analog computer monitor where the heat leaves to keep all the body warm then paint it (it sticks so good that way) .. thats what i do. 

i do it with krylon, testors, tamia (sp?) , rustoelum, and some cheap brands. hope this helps. 

Wes


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Hmmmm . . . maybe the cave is cooler than I thought. I have one of those single electric burners . . . maybe I can put my cans on that.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Okay guys, the safest way would probably be underneath hot tap water. I can heat a can in 3-5 muntes max and get smooth results and a great coat. Warning, once I zapped a bowl of water in the microwave to use as the heat source, it was too hot and the can was too cool from being in the batcave. Well, not realizing that, I placed the can in the water. After 10 to 15 seconds I heard this loud crushing aluminum sound and a crash. The bottom of the can had expanded out then fell out of the container and onto the floor thus causing me to nearly soil myself. Anyway, thank the Lord it didn't explode, if it could anyway. Not sure how the TM would have like Sublime Lime overspray all over the basement.  rr


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## oldtoyguy (May 31, 2009)

1976Cordoba said:


> Hmmmm . . . maybe the cave is cooler than I thought. I have one of those single electric burners . . . maybe I can put my cans on that.


A HOTPLATE ??? NOT A GOOD IDEA!

This reminds me of a story my friend told me.
He worked in a tubing mill and they used small testors size spray cans to mark the tube in a jig somehow.
The can was too tall for some reason or something needed adjusted , I forget what he said, but the operator decided a quick fix was to grind a little off of the bottom of the can ! , LOL Ka BOOMMMMMMMM
And it was RED PAINT!
My friend ran over there when he heard the explosion and freaked out ! He thought the guy had blood all over him , wish I was there to see that!


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Funny stuff guys. I also use hot tap water. I just put the can in the sink and turn the hot water on, go check out some posts on HT for a bit, go grab the can, dry, and go shoot. Sometimes I use a light to heat the bodies.


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