# You know what really ticks me off?



## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Getting all the way to this point…








…only to discover a couple forgotten parts at the bottom of the box….


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

WHAT?!

So what are those? I thought you were gonna tell a tale of woeful orange peel or drippy final coat or cat hair all over.


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## Prologic9 (Dec 4, 2009)

Those would be the pieces that hold the Pylons in. It's kind of like building a car model and forgetting the axels.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Pretty much.

I've contacted R2 re: the possibility of purchasing replacement parts for the secondary hull. We'll see what they say; it's quite a few parts.

Sometimes experience works against you. I very seldom follow the instructions anymore, but this is a fairly complex assembly, and I should have paid more attention.

*BTW: If anyone knows where I can score some secondary hull replacement parts feel free to shoot me a PM. Obviously I'd like to avoid having to purchase an all-new kit if I can find a less costly work-around.*


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Anyone who did a scout/destroyer conversion would have a spare secondary hull. Or maybe just crack this one open, nothing to lose if you're getting a replacement anyway.


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## Prologic9 (Dec 4, 2009)

I would glue the pylons on (without nacelles) and then fill the entire tail end with resin. That'll hold them in. You're not lighting it (presumably) so it would be pretty easy.

That's probably overkill, I'm sure some generous amounts of epoxy putty would keep it together.

Edit; I just remembered I left my shuttlebay out of my build so I would have access to the rear (just for stuff like this). So assuming you have a shuttlebay back there... you know... dremel that away.


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## scotthm (Apr 6, 2007)

Carson Dyle said:


> Getting all the way to this point…
> 
> …only to discover a couple forgotten parts at the bottom of the box….


Your putty and paint work are excellent. >

---------------


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

robn1 said:


> Anyone who did a scout/destroyer conversion would have a spare secondary hull. Or maybe just crack this one open, nothing to lose if you're getting a replacement anyway.


The hull halves are HEAVILY reinforced with epoxy along the seams -- especially where I beefed up the interior mounting joint so it would ensure a robust connection to my pana-vise. There is NO WAY those halves are coming apart.

Repeating the assembly is no big deal; the parts went together like a dream, with a minimum of puttying, sanding and priming. It's really just a question of scoring some replacement parts.



Prologic9 said:


> I'm sure some generous amounts of epoxy putty would keep it together.
> 
> Edit; I just remembered I left my shuttlebay out of my build so I would have access to the rear (just for stuff like this). So assuming you have a shuttlebay back there... you know... dremel that away.


That's a thought. I suppose there's no reason not to Dremel away the rear of the shuttle bay to access the interior. Not sure what sort of access I'll have to the pylon joints, but maybe an acid brush slathered with putty could reach into the hull and secure the joints. I'm just worried about achieving the proper alignment of the pylons. They would have to be in EXACT alignment prior to applying the putty, and given how loosely they slot into the hull without the required parts, I'm not I can ensure a precise join.


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## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

if the body is already filled with resin why not fill the pylons with resin as well and then pin them in....


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

pagni said:


> if the body is already filled with resin why not fill the pylons with resin as well and then pin them in....


The body isn't "filled" with resin, just heavily reinforced from within along the seams. Not sure what you mean by "fill the pylons with resin?" The pylons themselves are already assembled.

Yeah, on closer inspection, there's not enough wiggle room to get a Dremel into the shuttle bay far enough to cut through the bay wall. Also, the more I think about it, the less convinced I am that putty and or resin would provide the required degree of reinforcement for a pair of engine-bearing pylons. That particular join, where the pylons connect to the hull, REALLY needs to be solid. R2 devised a cleverly engineered means of locking the pylons in place but, you know, it helps if you don't forget to use the parts required to get the job done.

No, the only way to correct my mistake is to construct a replacement for the secondary hull. As I said, the assembly is pretty painless. It's acquiring the parts without having to buy a new kit that's the challenge.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

If you Dremel out the shuttle bay would you be able to insert the pylon supports through there?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

robn1 said:


> If you Dremel out the shuttle bay would you be able to insert the pylon supports through there?


Nope. Not enough clearance.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

I have no solution to offer, just that you have my condolences. :crying:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

What if you carefully sawed out the bottom hull section immediately beneath the pylons, installed the parts, then shimmed and replaced the cut out section, putty and sand smooth?

It probably sounds scarier than it is. I believe that's what I would do under the circumstances.

Something like this:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Trek Ace said:


> What if you carefully sawed out the bottom hull section immediately beneath the pylons, installed the parts, then shimmed and replaced the cut out section, putty and sand smooth?
> 
> It probably sounds scarier than it is. I believe that's what I would do under the circumstances.


I'm gonna guess that the way those parts likely key in and lock with other things, the resin re-enforcement would prevent that locking together of stuff needed for the proper structural integrity. I suspect that's all interconnecting, yet obviously not...um...obvious. 

I did a slightly similar 'head slap' thing with the last Gundam kit I built. The whole gimmick was this elaborate ABS/Stryene internal skeleton and joint system that allows for some really insane movement and posing. I was assembling the armor parts onto that skeleton, glanced at the instructions and smoothly ran liquid cement along the joining surfaces. Then I noticed that one was supposed to NOT glue, example, the front and back thigh armor together because they were supposed to slide and part slightly at some positions, mimicking with solid materials how human skin and muscles deform under movement. 

I thought I was boned. Turns out it didn't affect the movement that much, so whistling a happy tune I just went on and glued them all. 

Could have been a disaster. I got lucky, really lucky. Darn Bandai subtle assembly instruction codes. 


CD, I hope someone will help out and toss you a fresh engineering hull.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Steve H said:


> I'm gonna guess that the way those parts likely key in and lock with other things, the resin re-enforcement would prevent that locking together of stuff needed for the proper structural integrity. I suspect that's all interconnecting, yet obviously not...um...obvious.


Nonsense. I'm and old veteran model builder (80), and that would be the most direct and easy fix. A good razor saw will cut through resin as effectively as styrene. It would take a minimal amount of time, be minimally invasive, then patched back up afterward, and no one would be the wiser.


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## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

so what parts do you need?



would these be enough? the secondary hull only has a coating of reflective tape, that should come off easy enough


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Kremin said:


> so what parts do you need?
> 
> 
> 
> would these be enough? the secondary hull only has a coating of reflective tape, that should come off easy enough


Thanks for the kind offer, but the folks at Round 2 have agreed to replace the parts for a very reasonable fee. (R2's stock just went up a couple notches in my book). 

Thanks for the fix suggestions everybody. TrekAce, I'm sure your solution would work, but I also suspect getting back to a perfectly smooth hull would take more time than starting the assembly from scratch. Given the nature of this kit (no place to hide imperfections) it's quite a challenge to render unwanted seams completely invisible -- as anyone who's tackled those grid lines can attest! That said, if not for the availability of replacement parts, I'd be sawing away.

BTW, a couple people have asked, I used sanding resin to fill the windows. It’s made to repair dings in surfboards. It cures very hard, but it’s designed to be sanded, and it makes quick work of those windows.



For the grid lines and other puttying chores I used Evercoat. Best filler on the market. It cures super fast and very hard, and it’s a dream to sand. When I see modelers using sandpaper to get rid of those gridline I just want to cry. Yes, it can be done that way, but Evercoat makes those types of jobs go so much quicker and easier.


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## MartyS (Mar 11, 2014)

Glad to hear you can get the parts.

I was going to suggest that there's no need to do much hacking, half the support for the pylons is still there, you could glue them in on the bottom side first, then drill a small hole on top between the pylons and inject resin to fill the cavity where those 2 missing parts should be. If you are lighting the bussards you'd need to put some tubing in or have the wires in first.

The place you'd have to cut to get those parts back in would be the top between the pylons, those missing parts are keyed into the halves of the secondary hull and keyed into each other when you close the hull. The amount of structural plastic you'd have to repair with resin would be more than simply filling in to hold the pylons.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

OMG... even the best of us make mistakes sometimes but, Carson,seriously? The BRACKETS!!!??? I give you a major DOH! for that one.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Carson, quick aside. Have you ever tried to cast with that sanding resin? maybe that's the stuff to re-cast parts of the small Bandai Star Destroyer for lighting.

I was drawn to the 'ultra clear' on the can, see...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Nevermind.

:smile2:









Thanks for the tip, MartyS.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Huh! well done!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Steve H said:


> Carson, quick aside. Have you ever tried to cast with that sanding resin?


No, I’ve only ever used it for filling in windows. It’s great for that purpose because it’s easy to sand, and buffs out really clear. You have to watch out for bubbles., but it’s usually not a problem at that small size. 

I was just messing around here, working very fast and not worried about bubbles, but you get the idea...





What I like about this method of making windows is that you can get the edges absolutely flush with the rest of the hull. I mean, ZERO seam lines.

I’m not sure how this particular product would react to being cast as a larger part… that’s not really what it’s designed for, and I suspect there are better resins on the market with which to cast parts.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Carson Dyle said:


> No, I’ve only ever used it for filling in windows. It’s great for that purpose because it’s easy to sand, and buffs out really clear. You have to watch out for bubbles., but it’s usually not a problem at that small size.
> 
> I was just messing around here, working very fast and not worried about bubbles, but you get the idea...
> 
> ...


That looks really nice. Easily nicer than a piece of frosted glass or plexi hotmelt glued inside. 

I would imagine bubbles could be minimized by either vacuum chamber or changing the mix slightly to a slow cure. 

You, sir, are a master of polishing! I could never do any of that, I don't have the temperament. It's OK. we all build whatever way we can.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Carson,
Would you mind putting up some Amazon links to the Evercoat and Ding All that you use specifically? I tried finding them myself but there are a ton of things called Evercoat and I didn't know which one you use. Thanks!


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## Prologic9 (Dec 4, 2009)

Huh, I use Ice Resin the same way to do windows. (after trying a hellevalotta recommendations). 

The ice resin takes 3-4 days to fully cure though, is the surf board product any faster?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Steve H said:


> You, sir, are a master of polishing! I could never do any of that, I don't have the temperament.


Nonsense! All you need is a set of polishing abrasives and some water. It takes no time, and it's practically effortless. And it's fun, because in a matter of minutes you go from crappy looking to awesome looking. In terms of instant gratification, it's one of the more satisfying aspects of model making (IMO).



Prologic9 said:


> The ice resin takes 3-4 days to fully cure though, is the surf board product any faster?


I usually will let the parts sit overnight. Eight hours is more than enough.



Fozzie said:


> Carson,
> Would you mind putting up some Amazon links to the Evercoat and Ding All that you use specifically?


http://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-105-Premium-Lightweight-Filler/dp/B000P6WQB0

http://www.amazon.com/Ding-All-pt-Sanding-Resin/dp/B004BFWKEO



Steve H said:


> I would imagine bubbles could be minimized by either vacuum chamber or changing the mix slightly to a slow cure.


Yeah, I was really jamming when I created that test part, and not worried about bubbles.. After a little practice you get the hang of it. I filled every window on the 1/350 with this stuff, as I was originally going to build the 2nd Pilot with lights. Once I switched to the 1st Pilot I just primed over the windows.

BTW, thanks to Evercoat it took me less than six hours to seam-fill, sand down, and prime the entire saucer section, top and bottom -- and when I was done there was NO TRACE of gridline to be found. I've heard guys talk about how it took them 36 hours, or whatever, to prep the saucer for the Pilot version. That's just madness! 

That gaping wound in the secondary hull I hacked open this AM to access the pylon joints? If I was using Bondo I'd still be trying to hide the seam this time next week. With Evercoat the entire operation, from start to finish, took an hour and a half -- an an hour of that was curing time.

Yes, Overcoat is expensive, but unless you crank out 50 models a month that $30.00 can will last you a couple years.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Carson, maybe you're right about the polishing products but my history says it would be a nightmare. 

I used to try the old 'toothpaste buff' on canopies, because that's what you did back in the '70s. Never, ever got it right. It's part of the reason why I concentrated on armor back then. Tanks are very forgiving. 

Nowadays nothing I build needs a glass-smooth base or finish. 

I have to say, that cut into the engineering hull and subsequent repair is just f**king brilliant. Totally seamless, like you never made that cut. Seriously, I am in awe of that kind of skill. Well done!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

This version of Evercoat is pretty good too:

http://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Evercoat-Flowable-Polyester-Finishing/dp/B000P6WR1O/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464281429&sr=1-2&keywords=evercoat+easy+sand


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

Thanks Carson. I ordered Evercoat 105 quart size on Evil Bay. $20.90 with shipping. Same package as in your photo. I've been using Bondo glazing putty with mixed results. I'll be glad to see how this works. :wink2: 

Its funny but I really enjoy the putty/sanding portion of the build. I have so many builds in primer it takes me a while to complete them. I have modeling moods. Sometimes build, putty,sand prime is my directive. Other times paint, finish, detail and decal is my focus. The urge of the former is stronger than the latter. :laugh:

Thanks for the tip!

Mike

BTW- not trying to highjack your thread. If I am let me know and I will delete my post.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Test fit. Amazing how well engineered this thing it. We’re a long way from the old AMT kit.

I’m planning to build in three sub-assemblies: 1: saucer, 2: secondary hull and dorsal, 3: engines. 

I can’t decide if I should affix the pylons to the hull first and then attach the engines, or if it makes more sense to first attach the pylons to the engines and then attach the engines and pylons to the hull. I’d love to get opinions either way from those of you who have experience with this kit. 

Thoughts?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Haven't built it, but the first question that comes to mind is, are all the parts lining up right to your satisfaction in the test fit? Does there appear to be any slop or twist going on? 

If yes,everything is good, I would suggest glue the pylons to the nacelles, then that unit to the hull. Reason being, it'll be easier to finish or repair anything needing done at the pylon/hull join than the nacelle/pylon join. With that area you'd likely need to turn the whole unit upsidedown to really get at it and that could introduce some bend or shift in the alignment. 

Aside, what is that lovely Pan-Am clipper on the top shelf? Old vintage kit or something recent from Dragon or Academy or something? (I like seaplanes.  )


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## MartyS (Mar 11, 2014)

I glued the pylons to the nacelles first and worked on those seams, then glued them into hull, let sit with everything supported for 2 days, then worked on the pylon hull seams. The seams don't need all that much work so it probably doesn't matter a whole lot what order you do it. I mostly did it that way because it seemed like running the wires would be easier but I don't think it ended up making much difference.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Getting there...

IMG_0229 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

That looks really good!


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Hi Carson, you had mentioned the use of epoxy to hold the hull pieces together. How did you this? I understand running liquid glue along seam lines, but epoxy? Did you roughen the insides to give tooth? Use plastic beams for reinforcement? Very curious as to your process.

Thanks,
David in Tucson


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Looks fantastic!

Are you using decals or paint masks for the registries?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

charonjr said:


> Hi Carson, you had mentioned the use of epoxy to hold the hull pieces together. How did you this? I understand running liquid glue along seam lines, but epoxy?


I used a combination of bonding agents on this kit... cyno, Plastruct, Testors "airplane glue," 5-min epoxy, etc. Just depended on the given joint.



RossW said:


> Are you using decals or paint masks for the registries?


I dislike working with decals, and will do almost anything to avoid doing so (-: Almost all the hull markings on this model are painted on. The windows are dark grey Dry Transfers.

IMG_0228 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

In keeping with my long tradition of making at least TWO really stupid, completely annoying, easily avoidable mistakes on every model I make, I present MISTAKE #2 (for Mistake #1 see page 1)...

1 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr


Klingons off the port bow!

2 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr



Still a few details to tweak, but she’s basically done. I give R2 a lot of crap for not doing enough with their Trek license, but on those rare occasions when they do manage to bring a newly-tooled Trek kit to market they do a swell job. This model was a BLAST to build (special thanks to Gary Kerr and Bill George for some greatly appreciated painting and detailing tips).

3 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr


I seldom feel this way about a model project, but I’m sorry this one is finished. I guess I’ll just have to build the 2nd Pilot version! (-:


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## bigdaddydaveh (Jul 20, 2007)

Is that Evercoat 400 glazing putty you are using Carson or Evercoat 156 Body Filler? Thanks in advance!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Hi Carson, 

In another post you said you use mostly Tamiya lacquers for base coats.........Would that be their spray cans? 

For the TOS base coat you said you used custom batch of "Pilot Hull Grey" lacquer mixed at auto paint store......great color!! Was that applied with air brush or HVLP sprayer?

What brand/type do you use for the clear coats. I really like how the TOS sheen came with an initial flat coat and then some light semi gloss coats. Did you apply the clear with spray cans, HVLP sprayer or an Airbrush? 

The details, registration & insignia were painted with?

I will be building a TOS in a few months and would like to duplicate that same sheen

Thanks!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

escape068 said:


> you said you use mostly Tamiya lacquers for base coats.........Would that be their spray cans? !


Here’s what I used on this model. I like to decant Tamiya rattle-can lacquers and run them through my airbrush. With the exception of the oils used for weathering, I stuck with lacquer-based paints (the Alclad green tint was used on the sensor domes). One color I didn’t use was BLACK. What appears as black in the pix is actually dark grey.
IMG_0064 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr



escape068 said:


> For the TOS base coat you said you used custom batch of "Pilot Hull Grey" lacquer mixed at auto paint store......great color!! Was that applied with air brush or HVLP sprayer?


My auto paint guy will load my custom mixes directly into a rattle-can. I don’t do this very often (it’s expensive), but in this case I wanted to match a particular paint chip exactly. These types of high-end synthetic auto paints go down smooth as silk right out of the can… but, as I said, I only use them in special circumstances. For touch-ups I’ll decant a little of the rattle-can paint into a small bottle, then run it through an airbrush.

The good news for Pilot Enterprise builders, if you want to save some money… after all the time, effort and expense of nailing the original Pilot Hull Grey I discovered it is essentially the same as good ol’ Tamiya grey primer. My custom mix is a tiny tad “greener” than the Tamiya stuff, but you’d have to see the two shades side-by-side to discern the difference.




escape068 said:


> What brand/type do you use for the clear coats. I really like how the TOS sheen came with an initial flat coat and then some light semi gloss coats. Did you apply the clear with spray cans, HVLP sprayer or an Airbrush?


I use the Tamiya stuff, straight out of the can. I’ll heat the cans in hot water for a few minutes before applying in a series of light, successive mist coats. It’s also important to lightly buff out the surface with a polishing cloth and/or a square of 2400 or 3200 polishing abrasive as you go. Obviously, you want the surface to be as smooth and lint-free as possible. 



escape068 said:


> The details, registration & insignia were painted with?


Yeah, except for a couple of the smaller decals, the stripes and registration numbers are painted on. The windows are dry (rub-on) Transfers. 




bigdaddydaveh said:


> Is that Evercoat 400 glazing putty you are using Carson or Evercoat 156 Body Filler?


This is my putty arsenol. (-: On this model I used mostly glazing putty because I wanted to maintain a little “flex” to the cured areas…
IMG_0063 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Thanks for all the great putty & paint info!!

The glazing putty used on the TOS was the Evercoat 105 or the other one to the right?

I will try and incorporate some of your techniques into my building & painting process 

For lacquer paint I use Polytranspar Lacquer paints from McKenzie Taxidermy Supply. They have many colors you can buy in small or large quantities and the paint is excellent. I buy the main colors and mix my own colors from them

https://www.mckenziesp.com/Lacquer-Base-Paints-C3513.aspx

I found McKenzie from Boyd at Trekworks who used their iridescent paints for the Aztec on the 1/350 Refit


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

One tip: Per the Smithsonian Restoration, the concentric rings behind the deflector dish should be a shade of brassy-gold, whereas the dish itself is copper (it was always assumed these areas were the same shade). Looking at my model now, I may not have gone “brassy-gold” enough on the rings. 

Also, in one of the restoration shots I referenced, the spike on the deflector dish appeared to be a two-toned combination of brassy-gold and aluminum. I’ve since learned that that what I thought was brassy-gold in the photo was actually a reflection of the adjacent brassy-gold housing. In other words, the entire spike should be a solid shade of polished aluminum. Fortunately for me, these are easy fixes.

IMG_0042 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr


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## Captain Robert April (Jul 5, 2016)

Like I said in my unboxing video, it's gonna be a new experience having to follow the directions religiously after forty-odd years of being able to rip the box open and, quite literally, build the ship blindfolded, without even checking to see if the directions are even there.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Yeah, I wish I'd paid closer attention to the instructions re: attaching the engines to the secondary hull. Also, don't do what I did, and forget to flip one of the registration markings on the lower hull.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Bravo sir! My favorite version of the Enterprise...Captain Christopher Pikes ship!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

This is my putty arsenol. (-: On this model I used mostly glazing putty because I wanted to maintain a little “flex” to the cured areas…
IMG_0063 by Carson Dyle, on Flickr[/QUOTE]


Hi Carson,

Which one is the glazing putty that has some flex in it? I want to order the Evercoat 105 and possibly one of the others. I already use Perfect Plastic putty, Vallejo small tube and the Tamiya putty

Evercoat 105 to fill initial seam......do you use another filler after the seam is sanded and primed and there is still a slight hint of a line? 

Most of these putties are solvent based and attack the primer while the Perfect Plastic putty and Vallejo does not. I try to fill the seam and have it as even as possible before the primer coat. Most of the time I use CA glue to fill seam (dries fast and sand pretty flat) and end up using very little putty at all. If a slight seam is present after priming I use perfect plastic or the Vallejo to finish it off. I would like a putty that fills the seem completely the first time after sanding.

Thanks!!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

escape068 said:


> Which one is the glazing putty that has some flex in it?


Both of the Evercoat products shown above afford a degree of flexibility. That's why I use them. You'll have to research the individual types to find the right one for your needs (I only just recently discovered Evercoat "Plastik Honey," which is GREAT for thinning Evercoat to better accommodate small seams or dings -- anyplace where a "runnier" filler is needed). 



escape068 said:


> do you use another filler after the seam is sanded and primed and there is still a slight hint of a line?


Sometimes I'll use Nitrostan or cyno to fill small scratches, seams or dings. Often I'll use thickened primer (e.g. Mr. Surfacer 500) to fill small seams. Usually, I've found a "slight hint of a line" after priming can be dealt with via additional priming and sanding, without applying additional Evercoat. Really, the types of fillers I use vary on a case-by-case basis. I _mostly_ use Evercoat to fill big-to-medium seams prior to priming... but not always.



escape068 said:


> I would like a putty that fills the seem completely the first time after sanding.


I've found that Evercoat will generally do so. No filler will fill every seam 100% all the time, obviously. Indeed, one of the reasons we prime is to locate those hard-to-see areas which may require additional spot-filling. The only time I've ever had a problem with Evercoat attacking the primer is when I've used too much of each, and/or have failed to allow proper curing time.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Thanks for the all detailed explanations. 

I do most of the same for those lingering lines and dings......extra priming & sanding ect........guess their is no easy way around it.

I'm sure anyone reading this can add some of these techniques to their own build process.

I will try Evercoat....I heard a lot of good things about it.


Where did you get the dry transfers for the PL 1/350 TOS?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

escape068 said:


> Thanks for the all detailed explanations.


My pleasure. This type of give & take is really what this board is all about. At least, it's what it SHOULD be about. (-: 

Folks sometimes bag on HobbyTalk, but when it comes to modeling TOS Trek, and 60's subjects in general, I find there's still A LOT of great information to be found here. Perhaps more so than on any other site.



escape068 said:


> Where did you get the dry transfers for the PL 1/350 TOS?


Those were custom made. There are still a few places around that will make DT's if you can supply them with an art file (or even if you can't, I guess -- but that can get really expensive). DT's were the best option for the effect I was trying to achieve. I didn't like the plastic window parts that came with the kit (at least not for the 1st Pilot version), and as previously mentioned, I try not to use decals if I can avoid it. The only other option would have been to paint the windows on (per the original model), but getting each square and tiny dot perfectly positioned and painted would have been... well, not a lot of fun.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Carson Dyle said:


> My pleasure. This type of give & take is really what this board is all about. At least, it's what it SHOULD be about. (-:
> 
> Folks sometimes bag on HobbyTalk, but when it comes to modeling TOS Trek, and 60's subjects in general, I find there's still A LOT of great information to be found here. Perhaps more so than on any other site.


I agree 100%


I'm probably ordering the Evercoat Easy Sand #420 (24oz) and the Evercoat Gold #405 (30oz) with the Plastik Honey #1249 (16oz) today. The 420 and 405 come with one each of the blue cream hardener. 

From what I have read the Easy Sand #420 is very similar to the Rage #105. The Gold #406 is more for finishing & light scratch/sand marks and imperfections.

I can get all 3 plus an extra 4oz tube of cream hardener for $71 shipped which should last for years.

Do you normally thin down the Evercoat putty with the Plastik honey? 

I have not really worked with 2 part putty and want to know how much working time you have once the hardener has been added? 

I assume you mix small amounts of putty with a very little amount of hardener

Thanks!!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

escape068 said:


> I can get all 3 plus an extra 4oz tube of cream hardener for $71 shipped which should last for years.


That’s a good deal, and you won’t regret it.



escape068 said:


> Do you normally thin down the Evercoat putty with the Plastik honey?


No. The only reason to do so is if you’re filling small dings, scratches, or other hard-to-reach spots. For obvious reasons it’s really helpful to be able to control the consistency of your filler.



escape068 said:


> I have not really worked with 2 part putty and want to know how much working time you have once the hardener has been added?


It’s really easy. Get one of those wax paper pallet pads – the type used by artists for their oil paints. It makes a great mixing surface. I usually mix the filler and hardener together with thin wooden coffee stirs appropriated from Starbucks. The putty sets up pretty fast once mixed with the hardener, but that’s usually a good thing (repairing my goof with the Enterprise engine strut mounts went REALLY fast owing to the quick cure time). Evercoat can usually be sanded within 15 minutes. That’s my favorite thing about it – hardly any downtime between applications!



escape068 said:


> I assume you mix small amounts of putty with a very little amount of hardener.


Yup. I just eyeball it, mixing in just enough hardener to turn the cream-colored putty to “duck’s egg blue.” Just make sure you mix the putty and hardener together thoroughly before using. If you don’t see any dark blue streaks of hardener in the putty you’re good to go. As for applying the putty to the model, unless I’m filling an unusually large seam, I usually just use my finger!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Thanks again for all the tips and how very well you explained each.


You show Evercoat Rage and Gold your in your picture. What situations do you use each in?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

escape068 said:


> You show Evercoat Rage and Gold your in your picture. What situations do you use each in?


Rage is a little more heavy duty. But they both get the job done.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Carson Dyle said:


> Rage is a little more heavy duty. But they both get the job done.



Thanks Carson.......Have a great weekend!! 

Look forward to seeing more of your builds


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

escape068 said:


> I found McKenzie from Boyd at Trekworks who used their iridescent paints for the Aztec on the 1/350 Refit


Speaking of upcoming projects, do you have a link?


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Carson Dyle said:


> Speaking of upcoming projects, do you have a link?


Here you go

24 part Refit Build Series. 

Open link in new browser to show the other 23 parts (Remove the Quotes")

"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29QtTn_iQVo&list=PLF9nz5N6__BjT7UcHASgXMSO8IURtTfcN"






Check out his other builds .......He does some really nice stuff.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Thanks


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Another couple of good videos from TrekWorks


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