# Homelite Blower UT08932



## Spit (Nov 3, 2006)

I am trying to repair a Homelite UT08932 blower it has a Zama CIU style carb. I rebuilt the carb and I am having touble getting it to run.
I have spark, and 100 psi or more of compression it seems like gas is making it out of the carb but isn't getting drawn into the engine? I have double checked how I installed both of the diaphrams and gaskets and I think I have it right. Now when I choke it and try to start it..it won't start and I will have gas drip out of the throat of the carb. Could I have a problem with a cylinder or crankcase gasket creating a loss of vacuum? 

I have the line with the fuel pick-up connected to the bottom of the carb, and the line that pressurizes the fuel tank connected to the top of the carb/primer...which I think is correct. 

any ideas welcome!

Spit


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## james33 (Oct 27, 2010)

*Zama Carb Picture*

Check out the following picture, 
http://www.zamacarb.com/C1U.html
The lower pipe is for the fuel pipe to the pick up filter in the tank and the top one is the primer which sucks the mixture up the other pipe through the carb metering chamber and then pumps it back into the tank, I believe one is smaller than the other, sounds like you have it right though. 
Did you change the metering diaphragm and the needle? If you did or even opened that side up, have you checked the operation and adjusted the needle metering lever and put the gasket under the diaphragm when you replaced the cover? If the lever is too low it will not suck the fuel through into the manifold.
Ideally if you do anything to a carb you should pressure check it afterwards. That allows you to have some confidence in that component allowing you to look elsewhere for the cause.
The other problems if there are any would be an air leak into the crankcase caused by leaking crankcase gaskets, or more likely, crankcase seals. 
Lets rule out the obvious first though.
Why did it stop?? Was it running fast or slow when it did, or did it not start and how long was it standing up(not used)? What did the mixture look like and was the fuel filter in the tank dirty? If you have a porex filter in the tank discard any inner carb gasket as they tend to block up on the older flymo/homelite models especially if they are the very very fine compressed metal ones. I have asked myself for years: why do they have such a fine filter there if you there is a decent porex one in the tank??
see how you get on


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## Spit (Nov 3, 2006)

*Found the problem*

I took the crankcase cover off to check the gasket on the cover, and when I did I saw the the cylinder is cracked below the exhaust port. It's a horizontal crack all the way across the cylinder wall and it dips down to to the flange where the crankcase bolts on. I think the crack spread while I was working on it...running it on choke, because when I went to re-start it, it sounded clanky and then it wouldn't re start at all. 

I have never seen anything quite like this before, didn;t seem to be abnormal wear on the piston & cylinder themselves and it had decent compression.

I wonder is JB weld could hold something like this? Looks like it's destined for the spare parts heap.

Spit


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## james33 (Oct 27, 2010)

*Rip*

Well discovering the cause is the first step and that certainly seems like the reason. But running it after that happened is more likely to have partially seized it than opened the split up. You definitely need a new cylinder and I believe they always come with a piston, you will also probably need cylinder base gasket and inlet + exhaust manifold gaskets. The parts heap sounds like a good idea because the crankcase could be warped and that was what caused that, or the part was dropped when it was being assembled! 
Good luck anyway.
Regards
Jim


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