# Prepping a Hardbody for Painting



## hrnts69 (Apr 12, 2007)

Since i got my Snap On Airbrush Kit this Christmas, and went to the LHS for some paint, iam waniting to do some painting. And iam waiting for my order of Lexan Bodys to come in from Ohio. Thus Harbodys is the only thing i can paint so far. Iam mainly gonna be doin LifeLike and Xtraction bodys.

What steps should i do to remove the stock paint without deforming the body?

What do you use to mask off the windows that cant come out from the inside of the body?

Do you use primer before laying down the 1st coat?

Other than those questions, iam ready to fire up the air compressor! No more Rattle Cans for me!!!

Thanks
Blake


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## Dranoel Dragon (Oct 9, 2007)

Ok let's take these one at a time



hrnts69 said:


> What steps should i do to remove the stock paint without deforming the body?


There are several methods depending on the paint. Sometimes Isopropyl Alcohol works great. Sometimes I have to use Easy-Off Oven cleaner. Some people prefer Pine-Sol. You'll just have to try them and see how they do. Good news is you prob'ly have some of each around the house already and if not you can always use it for other things so it's cost effective.



> What do you use to mask off the windows that cant come out from the inside of the body?


First of all there is no windshield/window I can't remove, including molded in windows. All it takes is some patience and a dremel. But if you must, Tamiya makes some great masking tape for modeling and painting. I love this stuff. Also comes in three different widths and has dispensers and reload rolls for convenience. There's also Parma's Liquid Mask. It's a latex based mask that goes on as a liquid and peels off after painting. I've had limited success with it. But, if you can hand paint acurately it'll do you well.



> Do you use primer before laying down the 1st coat?


Absolutely! Unless you want your masterpiece to peel a few months down the road.



> Other than those questions, iam ready to fire up the air compressor! No more Rattle Cans for me!!!


You are on your way to better custom paint jobs. I'm proud of you. Now you got a bud light or what?



> Thanks
> Blake


You're welcome.  Any time.:thumbsup:


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## hrnts69 (Apr 12, 2007)

Thanks for quick reply!!! I now know what to do. Just a thought, why couldnt i use Scotch Clear Tape to mask off windows that i dont wanna take out? Thats how i mask out the windows on the lexan bodys? A #11 XACTO Knife works great to do that job.

And for the masking tape, iam not too fond with the Tamiya tape. I go with 3M Masking Tape. Differnt widths to choose from, but a tad expensive thou.

But anyway, Thanks for the quick reply!


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## krazcustoms (Nov 20, 2003)

As far as masking tapes go, any decent 'paper-type' masking tape is the best. And by decent, I mean 3m or American Line brand or equivalent. Don't spend the extra money for the 3m green-colored tape. It's more expensive and the only thing that makes it better than their regular is that it's more water-repellent, which isn't something you'll have to worry about when painting slot cars.

It's what you do with the tape that's the most important - get yourself a piece of glass - a glass from an 8 x 10 picture should work fine - and lay a strip of tape down on the glass. Get yourself a metal straightedge and cut strips out of it in any width you desire. You can cut it incredibly thin, and the thinner you cut it, the tighter radius corners you can make with it. And cut paper masking tape will work WAY better than any plastic (fine-line, etc) masking tape there is. If you don't believe it - try it - it won't cost you anything.


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

have any of you tried pine sol?i just want to remove one coat of paint,as some idiot painted flat black over a nice stock candy red,and dorked on some cheesy decals...i have it soaking now,hope i can save that candy paint...


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

Is there a brush on primer?


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

slingshot392 said:


> Is there a brush on primer?


 
Get yourself a can of Krylon flat white or primer. It's way easier and there's no cleanup with a brush or your spray gun. Plus it will give you a smooth finish without brush strokes. I just warm the can with H2O and spray on a lite coat or two. :thumbsup: rr


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Slotnewbie!!! keep a close eye on that candy!!! You don't want to remove too much!! Check it often!!!


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

I have tried both the Pinesol and lighter fluid methods. The pinesol is slow but does remove paint without damage. Some of the 70's Tycos have at least 5 coats of paint. Like stated you have to remove the glass. Unless you like the smell of pine it does come in different odors. With the lighter fluid, I used it on a painted AFX '55. I used at least 200 ear wax cleanening sticks, sore fingers, 15 hours, but shinny as hell when done. It didn't get all of the nooks and crannies clean but with a new coat of paint it looked good. The pinesol did easily remove a freash "gone wrong" paint job and the AW cars are easy prey as well. Have fun with the new gun. Dave


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Slotnewbie!!! keep a close eye on that candy!!! You don't want to remove too much!! Check it often!!!


yeah,i am gonna have to do a full repaint,the pine sol is taking every thing off,even the gold undercoat...sigh back to the drawing board,as they say...but on the bright side i know better for next time,lol...got it right down to the plastic now.good thing i got the painted chrome off...looks like i have to strip that too,as someone painted flat white over all the chrome parts too!grr...off to get some spraycans...anyadvice on spray bombing other than "buy an airbrush?"


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## GoodwrenchIntim (Feb 22, 2005)

slotnewbie69 said:


> yeah,i am gonna have to do a full repaint,the pine sol is taking every thing off,even the gold undercoat...sigh back to the drawing board,as they say...but on the bright side i know better for next time,lol...got it right down to the plastic now.good thing i got the painted chrome off...looks like i have to strip that too,as someone painted flat white over all the chrome parts too!grr...off to get some spraycans...anyadvice on spray bombing other than "buy an airbrush?"


when I use to spray bomb I would warm the cars of paint some (sitting over a heater vent, stuck in warm water) to make it spray more evenly an LIGHT coats of paint. let dry, paint another light coat. Try an spray it 3-4 coats before you get the color you want. And you can wet sand in between coats


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

GoodwrenchIntim said:


> when I use to spray bomb I would warm the cars of paint some (sitting over a heater vent, stuck in warm water) to make it spray more evenly an LIGHT coats of paint. let dry, paint another light coat. Try an spray it 3-4 coats before you get the color you want. And you can wet sand in between coats


i am curious about the wetsanding approach,do you think you could elaborate?i am almost done stripping the body,so i will be getting to paint soon,depending on whether or not i prefer the factory plastic...it's a light grey,bill would love it,lol!


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## GoodwrenchIntim (Feb 22, 2005)

you need very fine wet/dry sand paper, 1000 grit would be best. You just lightly sand the paint by dipping the sand paper in water keeping the body an sand paper wet. On smaller cars its probably not really needed unless you see dirt in the paint or you get in too big a hurry an make a run


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

GoodwrenchIntim said:


> you need very fine wet/dry sand paper, 1000 grit would be best. You just lightly sand the paint by dipping the sand paper in water keeping the body an sand paper wet. On smaller cars its probably not really needed unless you see dirt in the paint or you get in too big a hurry an make a run


i am restoring a 1960 corvette tycopro,remember the one with the red candy paint and the blower?its got interior detail so i might go ragtop,but the glass has overspray from the white roof...any advice on that?bill hall's buffing technique comes to mind,but does it work on glass?


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## GoodwrenchIntim (Feb 22, 2005)

I use denatured alcohol on newer tyco, I don't think it will hurt that clear glass, but I would test first on a part that won't been seen


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

GoodwrenchIntim said:


> I use denatured alcohol on newer tyco, I don't think it will hurt that clear glass, but I would test first on a part that won't been seen


yeah i've heard about denatured alcohol...i use isopropyl for my chassis,but i just got into the modelling aspect...btw i followed your (twolff} thread on the pan chassis,and mine works great now!buttons and all...clackity clackity...


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

roadrner said:


> Get yourself a can of Krylon flat white or primer. It's way easier and there's no cleanup with a brush or your spray gun. Plus it will give you a smooth finish without brush strokes. I just warm the can with H2O and spray on a lite coat or two. :thumbsup: rr


Will flat white work as a primer? If so, I have loads of flat paint from my airplane days.

I live in Minnesota where it is crazy cold. I have an attached, small, single car garage that gets awfully cold during winter. I hate having to move my vehicle out just to prime a body and then move the vehicle back in, don’t want over spray on the vehicle! That’s why I was hoping there would be a brush on primer out there.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

slingshot392 said:


> Will flat white work as a primer? If so, I have loads of flat paint from my airplane days.
> 
> I live in Minnesota where it is crazy cold. I have an attached, small, single car garage that gets awfully cold during winter. I hate having to move my vehicle out just to prime a body and then move the vehicle back in, don’t want over spray on the vehicle! That’s why I was hoping there would be a brush on primer out there.


 
I use the flat white for the lighter colors I'm painting. The grey has a tendency to give them a little darker hue. Haven't had any problems to date. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

slingshot392 said:


> Will flat white work as a primer? If so, I have loads of flat paint from my airplane days.
> 
> I live in Minnesota where it is crazy cold. I have an attached, small, single car garage that gets awfully cold during winter. I hate having to move my vehicle out just to prime a body and then move the vehicle back in, don’t want over spray on the vehicle! That’s why I was hoping there would be a brush on primer out there.


for plastic,or lead miniatures,i would just use a normal white paint for priming.you can brush it on,it just takes longer.also,i was dealing with a far greater amount of detail,so spray primer would obscure the details if i wasn't careful.mind you i guess it depends on how well the plastic takes paint.give it a good cleaning first to make sure there are no dirt inclusions,etc


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

Thanks guys, just the information I was looking for! I will definitely give the flat paint a try.


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