# Craftsman 6.75 HP Eager 1 Info



## Fixastang

Hello All,

I have been searching this forum for various information regarding a Craftsman 6.75 HP Eager 1 Tecumseh Engine. I know the Craftsman Part number is 143.006706 and is discontinued. I downloaded the PDF for 4-11 HP Tecumseh L Type engines and checked the Craftsman cross reference section, but it begins with 143.2xxxx numbers. I have looked on the outside of the engine without removing the plastic shroud and Sears has a label stating it is a YTPX6.2071BA. The Sears Parts Website listed in other forums lists this as a Part Number 750819c and states it is no longer available.

Can anyone tell me how I can determine what Tecumseh model number engine I have? I am attempting to accumulate information on this mower so I can repair it myself.

The main issue I am having is the mower is a bear to start. Once it has been primed about 10 times, it will start and run about 30 seconds (at best) then die. It repeats the start, run 30 seconds and stop cycle about 3 times before it decides to maintain a good idle for about a minute, then it begins a varying cycle of low idle (to the point of almost dying) then returning to a regular idle. Occasionally, it will run fine for up to 5 minutes, in the driveway, without the air filter or housing on it. If I replace either one (the air filter is brand new) the engine begins idling up and down on its own.

Please let me know what information you may be able to provide me with regards to this matter.

Very Respectfully,

Kurt
Bloomington, IL:freak:


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## RKDOC

Remove the housing arounnd the engine. There will be a plate on the engine with the tecumseh numbers on it.


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## Rentahusband

I worked on a similar motor and was about ready to give up on it, had the carb off several times with no luck. Turned out the vent in the gas cap was plugged, so check that first. Try running it with the gas cap removed. Sounds like the engine is straving for fuel. Have you ever had the carb bowl nut off. If the tiny holes are blocked it will not run properly. If you take the bowl nut off either empty the gas tank or pinch the fuel line to stop fuel from flowing in. There will be a few tablespoons of fuel in the bowl, so have a few paper towels handy. When you prime that many times the engine will run until the fuel primed in is gone. Check the primer bulb for cracks. 
Keep us posted.
Dean


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## 30yearTech

The engine on your mower is a Tecumseh Vector series engine, the corresponding Tecumseh mode number is VLV126-502533E.

The most likely cause of your issue are 2 little O-Ring seals in the carburetor, one on the nozzle and the other between the main jet and nozzle cavity. 

The main jet is accessed via the drain screw on the side of the float bowl, there is a small spring under the screw, then the main jet (plastic) and finally the O-Ring. This one tends to swell up and shut off the fuel supply.

To access the O-Ring on the nozzle requires the float bowl to be removed from the carburetor body. To do this you will have to unsnap the retaining clip towards the rear of the carburetor and drop the float bowl off. There is a small O-Ring near the base of the nozzle that can deteriorate and allow air to be drawn up the nozzle instead of fuel. There is a small spring underneath the nozzle so be careful not to loose it, it's very important. Both O-Ring's are the same.

Best of Luck...:thumbsup:


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## Radiorara

*Tecumseh Blows*

I too have a Craftsman Mulching Mower with that crappy engine/carb setup. After draining the oil, replacing the blade, cleaning the mower top to bottom and replacing the spark plug and air filter and cleaning out the carb and replacing with fresh gas it still will not start. Compression seems good and it did try and start after spraying the intake with carb cleaner but man what a dog. I feel like riding this thing down the street until I hit something rendering it completely useless. Model Number 917.378420 Dunghole brown color with garbage plastic wheels.


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## geogrubb

At this time I can't get to a site where I can see the carb type for your engine, however, if your carb has the plastic tube extending into the air filter area your problem is, 1- you must make sure the bowl nut is clean, it can have 1-4 holes in it that will get clogged, 2- on this carb the bowl gasket(at the top) must be replaced whenever the bowl is removed( the primer doesn't prime if there is a air leak). Have a good one. Geo


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## coltzfan1963

I just got mine running again. I bought some new gaskets/o-rings and primer bulb. When I took it apart and there was no o-ring on top of the main jet but I put it in because I saw it in the diagram. It restricted the movement of the plunger so I took it back out and it fired up. It's a crappy carb but at least I did not have to spend the $80 for a new one or replace the mower. Thanks to all for the advice!


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## gawick

30yearTech said:


> The engine on your mower is a Tecumseh Vector series engine, the corresponding Tecumseh mode number is VLV126-502533E.
> 
> The most likely cause of your issue are 2 little O-Ring seals in the carburetor, one on the nozzle and the other between the main jet and nozzle cavity.
> 
> The main jet is accessed via the drain screw on the side of the float bowl, there is a small spring under the screw, then the main jet (plastic) and finally the O-Ring. This one tends to swell up and shut off the fuel supply.
> 
> To access the O-Ring on the nozzle requires the float bowl to be removed from the carburetor body. To do this you will have to unsnap the retaining clip towards the rear of the carburetor and drop the float bowl off. There is a small O-Ring near the base of the nozzle that can deteriorate and allow air to be drawn up the nozzle instead of fuel. There is a small spring underneath the nozzle so be careful not to loose it, it's very important. Both O-Ring's are the same.
> 
> Best of Luck...:thumbsup:


This fixed my problem. The O-Ring in the main jet was pressed flat and resembled a flat piece of rubber rather than an O-Ring. It took some digging to get it out. If I didn't know it was in there from this post and the parts diagram, I might have never found the problem.


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## gawick

Thanks 30YearTech! I appreciate you taking the time to explain this issue.


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## dakaty2001

*Thanks for the info*

I found this thread that is over 2 years old and it solved my problem.

THANKS 30yearTech. The o ring at the main jet was flattened and blocking gas flow. A trip to Ace Hardware and 59 cents later, it runs like new. 

I had taken the carb apart twice and cleaned everything I could find. I was unaware there was an o ring hiding behind the main jet.

How did we survive without the internet?

Happy Trails


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## 30yearTech

dakaty2001 said:


> I found this thread that is over 2 years old and it solved my problem.
> 
> THANKS 30yearTech. The o ring at the main jet was flattened and blocking gas flow. A trip to Ace Hardware and 59 cents later, it runs like new.
> 
> I had taken the carb apart twice and cleaned everything I could find. I was unaware there was an o ring hiding behind the main jet.
> 
> How did we survive without the internet?
> 
> Happy Trails


Your Welcome! Glad the info helped everyone.


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## Jo-Jo

*30yearTech, THANK YOU!!*

Here I am, a few years later after you posted your answer to fix my mower, and you are SPOT ON! I looked at a dozen different youtubes as my 6.75 hp Eager-1 self propelled would start then die, and so on and so on. I pulled the carb, of course NOT the same carb as any of the youtube, and cleaned all of the jets w/ carb out, put it all back together again planning on it running like a charm. NOPE! I was discouraged. I finally happened upon your two liner talking about the o-rings. When I pulled the carb and cleaned it, I noticed one of the o-rings but felt it was fine as it looked ok. So, off I go to Ace hardware after reading your fix, spend $0.46 on two o-rings, put it all back together and SHAZZZAM! THANKS 30YEARTECH! Your answer was the ONLY one I found on the web that even discusses the real cause! I registered on this site, went thru all the 'stuff' to be able to post just to thank you! I owe ya a cold one...or two! Blessings!!




30yearTech said:


> The engine on your mower is a Tecumseh Vector series engine, the corresponding Tecumseh mode number is VLV126-502533E.
> 
> The most likely cause of your issue are 2 little O-Ring seals in the carburetor, one on the nozzle and the other between the main jet and nozzle cavity.
> 
> The main jet is accessed via the drain screw on the side of the float bowl, there is a small spring under the screw, then the main jet (plastic) and finally the O-Ring. This one tends to swell up and shut off the fuel supply.
> 
> To access the O-Ring on the nozzle requires the float bowl to be removed from the carburetor body. To do this you will have to unsnap the retaining clip towards the rear of the carburetor and drop the float bowl off. There is a small O-Ring near the base of the nozzle that can deteriorate and allow air to be drawn up the nozzle instead of fuel. There is a small spring underneath the nozzle so be careful not to loose it, it's very important. Both O-Ring's are the same.
> 
> Best of Luck...:thumbsup:


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## Pete from Prescott

*Amazingly Simple Fix!!! Thanx to 30 Year Tech*

It couldn't have been easier.
1. I tipped the mower at an angle with blocks so I could look at the underside of the carburetor (Side with Red Primer button).
2. I crimped the fuel hose about two inches away from the connection with small 8" forceps (Hemostats) This is the black hose. Crimp to the forward end of the hose.
3. Put some rags under the carb. area.
4. Look for the silver retaining "clip" that goes around and under the black plastic carb. bowl. With a pair of sturdy needle nose pliers, on the back side of the clip, at the top, pull the clip out of the hole that keeps the clip up. Bowl should drop down and fuel should spill out onto rags. Just swing clip back and away... do not remove from other hole.
5. Carefully slide bowl down and off the *white plastic shaft.* Do not lose spring laying in hole at the center of the Bowl.

* YOUR FIRST O-RING IS VISIBLE ON THIS WHITE SHAFT AT THE BOTTOM*

6. Empty the fuel from the bowl. Remove the screw from the side of the bowl taking care not to lose the spring and needle valve behind the screw. Remove the spring and valve.

*YOUR SECOND O-RING IS NOW ACCESSIBLE INSIDE THE SCREW HOLE.*

7. I used a captive spring hook to get it out. A paperclip shaped with a very short upturned end will do.
8. True Value had the O-rings for .99 cents. It was their smallest one measuring 1/8 x 1/4 x 1x16 or part no. 02-1624P (The repair shop will try to sell you a whole kit... not necessary.)

Note: You will find the 1st O-ring has been flattened on its sides. The 2nd O- ring (in the bowl) will have been pancaked to the point that there is barely a hole in the center.

PS. If I'd known what I was doing and had all my tools handy with the o-rings at hand, It would be about a fifteen minute job!!!!
The mower cranked over and never looked back!!!!!


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