# Future dipping



## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

I was wondering how many times do you guys dip your customs in a Future bath before calling them done?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I like 3 to 4 coats.


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

What Al said.. 3 to 4 coats.. 

Wes


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Minimum 3...*

I brush though. I use a soft almost floppy natural hair brush. I think my brush is from Crayola o go figure) and designed for watercolor painting. If the body is decaled, before shine coats even get applied, I dab the decals across their surface and around the edges (let that dry first). Not a soaking coat, just very thin will do it. Helps keep them in place for the finishing coats.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

I do one or two coats, with a brush. A lot of mine get raced so I expect to lose decals anyway.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v316/plymouth71/Slots/?action=view&current=M2U01218.mp4

I don't know how to embed video, but here is a tutorial I made a while back


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## austin flagger (Mar 28, 2012)

not able to play the audio... does this work ok if the windshields and chrome, etc are left in place? Thanks for posting that...


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Future is fine on all that stuff and has even been known to clear up "hazed" glass too! :thumbsup:


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Folks, it bashes , it slashes, it dices and slices...*

Seriously though, Joe's right... it does everything. Never had it yellow... not once. I've even used it to make flat paint glossy. Matter of fact, we had a wrought iron table that was flat black and 2 coats of Future later it was shiny. Still is and that was done YEARS ago. You can over-apply it though. If you don't pay attention to drips on the sides after each coat and if you allow puddles to form in low spots, you could end up with less than optimal results. Like paint... it's a game of thin coats and building a finish.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

If you need to remove it, Windex works nicely. just DON'T use windex on chrome!


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## kuanglina (Jan 6, 2012)

I think my brush is from Crayola ( go figure) and designed for watercolor painting.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

tjd241 said:


> Seriously though, Joe's right... it does everything. Never had it yellow... not once. I've even used it to make flat paint glossy. Matter of fact, we had a wrought iron table that was flat black and 2 coats of Future later it was shiny. Still is and that was done YEARS ago. You can over-apply it though. If you don't pay attention to drips on the sides after each coat and if you allow puddles to form in low spots, you could end up with less than optimal results. Like paint... it's a game of thin coats and building a finish.


Well said...this is an important last step to your custom!

I dip mine for 37 seconds the first time (someone here said this once) and 25 seconds for a second dip if needed.

I tap my slot car body over the dipping tub to remove any access and visually check it after a few minutes. a Paper towel can be applied to the lower edge of a body to soak up any extra Future.

Decals need to have DECAL SET (google Micro Sol decal setting solution for product picture) put on them to keep them from floating off of body if you dip.

Bob...I brush once in the morning and once at night...zilla


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

hmmm. joining the party late here. interesting, i only ever dip 'em once, and only long enough to get the whole body wet... then i take it out and hold it right side up and use a paper towel to wick/dab off the runs that show up at the low points. maybe i ought to start doing multiple coats like you all...

--rick


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## aurora1 (Oct 6, 2008)

Delete


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

I dip mine let it set for a few secons then lift it out and set it on a paper plate. Then I gently move the plate back and forth so the bosy slides on the plate this wicks off any excess on the botom sides. Works gereat on my Indy bodies however if the front and rear are up oof the plate then a piece of tissue run very gently along the bottom of the front and rear wicks away any excess. 

Roger Corrie


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## eastside johnny (May 13, 2008)

*Future from the past!*

OK, here's a picture of one of 18 cars from a very late 80's IROC set of house cars that we raced. The cars were air brushed with Testors enamel AND coated with Future. Like many here on the board now, back then I thought that this would be a great way to protect the appearance of the cars. It's clear & shiny & tough enough to walk on! Well, these bodies have been in (dark box) storage for a loooong time. You can see the original color where a lane sticker had pulled up the coating and you can also see how much the future has discolored over the rest of the car where it is still in place. Enough said. I rest my case. I NO longer use Future to protect anything that I value & want to keep. I may still use it for cars that will be used and abused on the track & trashed or stripped repainted, but that's it.
Yours trully,
eastside Johnny


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

ummmmmmmmmmm, I haven't read anywhere that anyone suggested coating collectables ...... collectables should only be cleaned with Pledge non-wax furniture cleaner or the equivalent. to try to seal them with anything, indeed, does decrease their value significantly.

using Future or clear paint is usually reserved for cars that will be handled quite a bit and need to withstand crashing and other mishaps.

I am not aware of a product that protects a plastic car body from the ravages of hiding in a card board box for eons.

.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I kinda like the way it turned out...


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

i'd try putting it in the sun, i'm betting the uv rays take care of the yellowing...


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

EJ, Not trying to get you to use Future, as that's a matter of choice. But, Just by looking at your pic, I'd say the Future did stick and the race tape/sticker actually pulled the Future, along with the color, off. Looks like your color coat is actually what came loose. Maybe the body wasn't prepped enough to keep the color from coming loose, not sure. I've run into that when two toning...If the base color isn't attached, it's gonna come loose...Just my thoughts to you and others...RM
P.S. Can't help with the yellowing...


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

80's vintage Testors enamel...not reliable even with the best of prep....yuck!


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## eastside johnny (May 13, 2008)

Randy, The blue that you see is the paint that was sprayed over the original red & white #28 Hardee's. The almost army green is the past future that's over the painted blue.
Just wanted to show the effects of Future over an extended time.

Plymouth 71.......I live in northern Ohio. What's this thing that you call SUN?

Bill, The paint actually held up pretty good.

Alpink, I wasn't referring so much to collectables say, as much as maybe those special customs that many of us put time and effort & maybe $$$ into & then coat with Future to seal in decals etc. Nothing of value in my display cases has ever been coated with Future. (that I know of) The cars that live & die on the tracks are another story. . . . . Two different worlds.

Like I stated above, "I just wanted to show the effects". It just might prevent someone new to all this from coating a car that maybe otherwise they wouldn't. We can all make our choices when to or when not to.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I feel left out...


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

I stand corrected...that's some serious yellowing...I was just looking at the pic, looked like the color had pealed off...RM


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## beast1624 (Mar 28, 2009)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I feel left out...


Rich...I feel your pain. BTW-great job yesterday!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

John,

Honestly, I've never been enamored with the idea. I'm an old school painter and a lacquer man to the grave. I have a natural aversion to ANY non-chemically bonded top-coatings. As a matter of course, I also reject most enamels as anything but garden paint. Only because I've had to work with them through out my career and my hobbies.  

It would be interesting to know about other LONG term results that either support or contradict your findings. The long term findings IS what makes your observations so interesting. 

In all honesty, I'm not surprised at all to hear your results. Reflecting back, moms used that mop on schlock fer years. When it got tore up and yellowed they stripped it off with a bucket of ammonia and re-slathered it. Remember? So, is the NEW improved non yellowing formula that everyone swears by really the schizz? 

The fact that you used it with the Testors enamel of yore further interests me with regard to the prolonged out-gas effects of that particular product AND what effects, if any, the dissimilar topcoat may have had on your eventual results.

Often there is more than one problem or issue at play. Either way, it poses some excellent questions with respect to current slot dogma. Only time will tell.


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## eastside johnny (May 13, 2008)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I feel left out...


Glad that you liked it! (It does kind of look like the shape of Texas) I would send it to you but I'm going to try and strip it (after all these years) & see what happens. This was the only one of the 18 cars that the Future lifted off from so the difference was very distinct

I just thought that this was very interesting and worth sharing and there's no better place to share these weird "little toy car" things than here.
Is the new Future better? Hope so.
I doubt that I'll care twenty years from now!!!!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

johnny, point taken, bill as well. it would be interesting to know how much time between the painting and sealing too. usually race cars don't get the same time considerations as custom builds.


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## mikeponiatowski (Jan 24, 2006)

1976Cordoba said:


> I do one or two coats, with a brush. A lot of mine get raced so I expect to lose decals anyway.


I agree with two coats. I find that it starts to "cake" or pool a little if more than two coats. Brushing or dipping are equally good methods.


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## gunn (Sep 30, 2002)

futura can also be mist on using a spray bottle.
i do it to some of my customs.:wave:


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## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

Hi Gunn, Welcome to the slot custom boards:wave:


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

41-willys said:


> Hi Gunn, Welcome to the slot custom boards:wave:


Hey Willys, 
Gunn has floated between the DC and slots for years, mate. 
he is kinda like our token DC guy.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I plan on doing some dipping....................... in the future.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Have you taken a shine to this product Rich?


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

tjd241 said:


> Have you taken a shine to this product Rich?


also, if u LIGHTLY glue (drop of comtact cement or rubber glue),
OR 3M stickyputty a wood dowel 2 the inside top of the body b4 dipping...
u can "Twirl" between hands (Lightly)
removing the excess Future 2 prevent "Pooling" after each dip :thumbsup: 

Bubba 123 :wave:


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## gunn (Sep 30, 2002)

joez870 said:


> Hey Willys,
> Gunn has floated between the DC and slots for years, mate.
> he is kinda like our token DC guy.


lmao...yep i hide alot and look. and when i feel i can add something or see a great slot idea or car i comment on it. then slide into the dark..


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

gunn said:


> lmao...yep i hide alot and look. and when i feel i can add something or see a great slot idea or car i comment on it. then slide into the dark..


Sneaky......


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

tjd241 said:


> Have you taken a shine to this product Rich?


I have used it. It does work good in certain applications. Great for CD repairs.
I don't use it often because I use markers to detail my cars.
Future tends to make that detail run.


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## win43 (Aug 28, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I have used it. It does work good in certain applications. Great for CD repairs.
> I don't use it often because I use markers to detail my cars.
> Future tends to make that detail run.


MOSTLY the red markers LOL

You could try brushing it on. Works just as good.


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