# recoil rope broke



## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

The rope on my manco go karts 5 hp tecumseh side shaft engine broke last night while i was trying to start it after having the carb apart for cleaning. How hard is it to replace this? What all needs to come off to get that cover off so that I can access the recoil? Can i just replace the rope? ive not taken a side shaft engine part before. Only messed with the vert shaft lawn mower engines. Any help will be most appreciated.


Justin


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The starter on a horizontal shaft engine for the most part is the same as the ones found on the vertical shaft engines, they come off the same way. The rope may be the only thing you have to replace, although sometimes when a rope breaks the spring can get bent or break also.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

i will check the model number tonight and post it tomorrow. where do i look in the engine?


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

Ok. the model number of the tecumseh engine on my kart is OHH50 68080D. I got the recoil housing off tonight. It is a riveted on recoil with no chance of removing it from its stupid housing to replace the rope. The engine is a enduro series OHV 5.0 hp motor. The cover has a kill switch on it. Anyone have any idea on where I would get a replacement? This is quite frustrating.


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## bsman (Jan 22, 2006)

you'll probably have to replace the whole recoil housing... unless you would do what i'd do, take the rivets off and try to fix... up to you


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You do not have to replace the entire starter or take out any rivets, it can be repaired. The model and s/n you supplied shows a starter assembly that is bolted down, but since you have it off already it does not matter.

To replace the broken starter rope all you will need to do is to remove the old pull rope and purchase a new rope that is aprox. the same diameter and length as the old one. 

Tie a knot in one end of the rope. Wind the starter spool by hand all the way until it stops (don't force it) and then unwind one turn. While holding the spool in place, feed the end of the rope without the knot in through the hole in the top of the starter spool and out the rope guide in the starter assembly. Release the starter spool while holding tension on the rope and slowly allow the rope to recoil back into the starter housing, don't let it go all the way back before attaching the starter grip. Then you are ready to reinstall the housing back on the engine.

As for the toggle switch, I could not find one on the break down for your engine all I could see was a kill switch near the throttle plate. I suspect the kill switch may have been supplied by the cart manufacturer and not by Tecumseh.

Best of Luck...


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

the starter assembly is riveted onto the cover. the original rope broke right where it attached into the recoil housing. It goes through the retainer and is held in by a staple. I am going to try to get that staple out i guess and somehow get the new rope into the hole. Is there a bolt on the outside of the recoil houseing under the sticker in the center that holds the recoil mechanism in place? If i could get that out it would be much easier. But from the inside it does not look removable. Does this all make sense?


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## tommyj3 (Sep 16, 2006)

Goto: www.toprake.com
Click on downloads
Download Technican's Handbook 695244a
Goto page 32 Recoil Starters

This should give you everything you need to know about your pull rope replacement. Would be a good idea to save a copy of Manual to disc for later 
use.
Maybe you won't be lost anymore.

Good Luck


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Yes, under the sticker there is a retainer, it's not a screw or bolt, it will either be a roll pin or the retainer may be plastic. You do not have to remove the pulley to install a new rope and in fact it is not any easier to replace the rope with the pulley out as with it in. Use a small screw driver to pry the staple out a little and the pull it out with a pair of pliers. Discard the staple you will not need it again, just tie a knot in the end of the rope to secure it in the pulley.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

thanks everyone, i will let you know how it turns out. I am going to work on it this afternoon.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

Ok, I got the new rope in. The starter recoil works great. But, apparently I did something wrong. If I prime the carb the engine fires right up and runs fine at idle for a couple seconds, then dies. When I had the carb apart, all I did was drop the bowl, and clean the needle valve, float, and sprayed cleaner all inside the carb and then reassembled. And now it will not stay running. Before I took it apart, it would idle, albeit roughly. Where do I go from here? This is the first carburetor that I have ever messed with so i am stumped.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Great that you got the starter replaced.

The carburetor does not sound like it is delivering fuel to the engine, when you press the primer bulb you are forcing fuel up through the nozzle and into the throat of the carburetor, but it sounds like the carburetor is not feeding the fuel on its own.

The carburetor on your engine shows to have a plastic nozzle with 2 o-rings on it, I have found that over a period of time the o-rings that seal the nozzle deteriorate and need to be replaced. Without a good seal there is not enough vacuum created to draw the fuel up through the nozzle.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

so do i need to buy a rebuild kit for it? What model carb? I have downloaded the technicians handbook. Where are these o rings at on the carb? Thanks for all your help everyone. I am determined to get this going.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

Where are you finding this model of the carb to determine the o ring information?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Based on the model and spec number you supplied earlier in this thread, I looked up your engine's IPL and it shows to use Tecumseh Carburetor Part Number 640017B. Looking at the parts breakdown for this carburetor I can see that the nozzle comes out of the carburetor (Ref No. 36) and has two O-Rings that seal the nozzle (Ref No. 37). You do not need the kit just the two O-Rings (they are also supplied in the kit).

The link listed below will take you to an illustrated parts list for your carburetor.


http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=640017B-TEC&dn=10CAAE81640017B-CA


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

does the nozzle push down out of the carb? How do I get it out. I also need to get a bowl seal so i'm going to try to locate a kit today.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I use a small flat blade screw driver to push the nozzle down and out the bottom of the carburetor. A small allen wrench can also be used to push down through the carburetor once the nozzle is pushed down flush with the screw driver. Be sure to remove all of the upper O-Ring as they usually stay in the carburetor once the nozzle is removed.


Good Luck :thumbsup:


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

ok i just got back from the store. Bought a bowl seal, 2 nozzle seals and a new needle valve and seat. $5.00. Not bad. I am going to work on it in a few minutes and hopefully in a little bit it will be running right. I will keep you posted on my progress.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

Ok, got it all put back together, replaced the seals on the nozzle and cleaned the heck out of the carburetor. The needle valve and seat looked ok. While looking at that diagram, I noticed that the spring that goes on the pin that holds the float in place on my carburetor is not there. It wasnt there to begin with. The engine still will not run for more than 2 or 3 seconds. Would this spring have any thing to do with that? I am starting to get frustrated with this issue.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

I passed on replaceing the needle valve and seat. They both looked in fine shape from what I could see. Would this be a cause of the thing not running?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

When you take off the float bowl is there much fuel in it? 

The needle and seat may look good but the seat can swell up and prevent fuel from flowing through it, you may not be getting enough fuel in the float bowl.

Have patience we will all get it figured out. Keep us posted


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## bobotech (Oct 6, 2006)

One thing about Tecumseh needles and seats that I recently learned. The seat is that little white rubber ring with straight sides. You need to put that into the hole where it belongs with the smooth side facing the needle. You look at both sides of the rubber ring and you will see what I mean.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

I did not really measure the amount that came out of the bowl. It was enough to soak a shop towel. What should I use to get the neoprene seat out of the hole? I tried using compressed air to blow it out, but no go. I guess I will take the carb back off when I get home after thanksgiving and replace the needle and seat. See if that works... Thanks for all you help everyone. 

Oh, I did get it started once and held the throttle wide open and It revved up but sounded like it was starving for fuel, kindof surging. Ran for about 10 seconds. but when I released the throttle, it died. So I guess that was just a fuel starvation issue at full throttle. Sound right. What would cause it to run longer with the throttle wide open? 

Happy Thanks giving everyone.


Justin


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

bobotech said:


> One thing about Tecumseh needles and seats that I recently learned. The seat is that little white rubber ring with straight sides. You need to put that into the hole where it belongs with the smooth side facing the needle. You look at both sides of the rubber ring and you will see what I mean.


I am going to replace them when I get home. Yes, the new seat has a groove on one side and is smooth on the other.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

ok thought of one more thing, the (return?) spring on the shaft that holds the float in place. Is it critical to correct operation?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

No the spring is not critical and is not used on most 4 strokes, usually found on the 2-cycle engines. Helps keep the float needle seated under high vibration conditions.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

I still cannot get this engine to run on its own. 

Here is a list of things that I have done.

1. removed carb, disassembled and thorougly cleaned it with carb cleaner, sprayed inside every hole on it. Soaked the carb for 20 minutes. Blew it all out with compressed air. 

2. Replaced both seals on the red plastic nozzle that runs from the bowl up into the carburetor. Cleaned the hole out several times, cleaned the nozzle back to new. Blew it out with compressed air. 

3. Replaced the needle valve and neoprene seat with new parts. Cleaned that hole out with carb cleaner and compressed air. 

Bent tang on float so that the float seats level when the needle is in contact with the new seat. 

5. Checked float for holes, found none. Cleaned float.

6. Cleaned bowl and brass bolt that screws into the bottom of carb. Cleaned out all 3 holes on the bolt with carb cleaner, soaked the bolt, and cleaned holes out with sewing pin. blew air through them to make sure that they will allow flow freely. 

7. Replaced the bowl seal rubber ring. 

8. Cleaned the very dirty spark plug.

I cannot think of anything else to try, I dont know that much about these things. It will run for a couple seconds when primed, and when i bring it to full throttle it will run as long as i hold the throttle open, but it runs as if it were starved for fuel. But it will not idle or run on its own. I know that seems to point to a fuel starvation issue but I cant think of what else to do???? Anyone have any other advice? Thanks for the help so far.


Justin


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

somebody, anybody?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Check for an air leak in the intake manifold, check the gaskets where the carburetor mounts to the manifold and where the manifold mounts to the cylinder head.

Is the carburetor an adjustable type? or is it a fixed jet model??

Have you checked the valve lash??


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## madmanmoose (Aug 26, 2006)

try 1 & 1/2turns from snug for main set screw and 1 full turn or idle set screw


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## bobotech (Oct 6, 2006)

You know, I got to the point where I had fixed up everything that was wrong with my snow blower. I rebuilt the carb, redid the starter rope, replaced fuel lines, replaced primer line, replaced plug, changed oil, cleaned everything. It ran but didn't want to accellerate or idle. 

I finally just brought it to my local small engine shop and paid someone 50 bux to properly tune the carb. It now runs great and I'm happy.

There is a point where I just throw in the towel and let someone else do the final tinkering.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

this carb is a non adjustable type. You know, I may just do that. I have redone everything except replace the manifold to carb gasket. Ill try that this afternoon and if it doesnt work then I will probably take it in somewhere. I havent had much luck thus far.


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## bobotech (Oct 6, 2006)

Funny thing, the carb to manifold gasket was one thing I did NOT replace on my snow blower. When I got it back from the shop, they had put my old one in a baggie, apparently it was one of the reasons for my blower not to run as well as it should have been.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

I am going to replace that one in the next couple of days, I will let you all know if I ever get this engine to run right.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

Ok, update on the go kart. I have learned a lot about this thing because of all these issues. It is running now and is pretty fast. The idle is a little weird, kind of surges? I think it may be idled down too low. Anyone know how to adjust this? The small engine guy that I usually take my stuff to played with the govenor and there was some crap in the tank that clogged my freshly redone carburetor up and now it is running. It is a little cranky at first, but after it warms up its great.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Carburetor may be set a little "lean" on the low speed side, try opening up the low speed adjustment screw about 1/8 turn (counter clockwise) at a time and see if that helps any. The low speed screw is the one on the side of the carburetor just above the float. The idle stop screw (located at the top of the carburetor near the throttle plate) may need to be reset as the idle will drop when the mixture is set more "rich"


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

this is supposed to be a non adjustable carb. the only screw is right above the float and it has the little cap on it. Is this the one that you are saying to fiddle with? how do I reset the idle stop screw? Thanks so much. your continuing advice is most appreciated.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Sorry, I did not look at the previous posts to refresh my memory. That screw with the cap on it is the jet for the low speed circuit. It could be the source of your problem if it is still dirty or partially plugged.


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## oncewaslost1982 (Nov 14, 2006)

I pulled the cap off and removed the screw and cleaned out the holes inside of it so that has already been done. should that one be turned out slightly??


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

No, thats not an adjustment screw. It should be in there snug.


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## briggsrepairman (Dec 12, 2006)

You don't need to get a kit for this carb. I've found that a simple O-ring kit from an automotive store like NAPA or Autozone works dandy as long as they are the right size and they are they are for submerging in gasoline. I get so many of these stupid plastic carbs in and got tired of ordering the kits. ALSO- as make sure the brass bolt holding the bowl on the carb is cleaned out. it has 1 or 2 little pin holes. usually on the side in the threads or also sometimes in the bottom.


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