# Routing: What tools to start with...



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Okay, 
so, on my list is routing a track, and I'm finally getting around to it.
Only thing is, I don't have a router, or any of the tools to do it right.
The cordless drill thing was probably a bad idea. I'm lookin to start when I get the stitches out.

There seems to be 4 kinds of routers: Trim, Palm, Fixed, and Plunger
All the ones I've seen seem to be variations of these and may include a table.
You get what you pay for, but I can't swing a C note or more for a router.
Here's a few online options...

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00928212000P?keyword=router

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00917541000P?keyword=router

http://www.lowes.com/pd_141184-353-...L=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=router$y=0$x=0

http://www.lowes.com/pd_254859-70-D...L=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=router$y=0$x=0

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44914


What's the best? What can I get by with?


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

I like this particular model: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&catalogId=10053&locStoreNum=4108&marketID=68

Also that Proxxon that tossedman has. :thumbsup:

"Trim" and "Palm" routers generally refer to the same thing. I think most guys use trim routers as they are more suited for pushing tiny little bits being used for somewhat precise cuts. 

Because of the very tight tolerances of routing a track, you need something that spins tight and true and will last for a long time. A 4-lane 60'+/- track will require 720+/- linear feet of routing. I've seen the HF one at the store and don't think that'd cut it.

The other must is a flat, screw-mounted removable base. You _will_ need to make modified or custom bases so this is a must. (And for that you really should have a drill press).

Plunge routers are nice but you can get by without that feature. To me it's one more variable that could go wrong.

Just keep in mind that the outcome is very tightly related to the equipment used. There is little to no room for sloppy tolerances whether it be in the tools or the jigs, guides, etc.


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

A round base on your router is handy if the bit is centred in that base. Allows you to follow a template strip like Luf's strip without having to worry about keeping the router base straight to the guide..

Another "tool" you need is oldslotracer.com. Lots of info and ideas there - mostly 1/32 but many principles apply to any track.

Todd


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## Tsooko (Oct 15, 2009)

Swampergene has hit the nail on the head. Your routing experience will be directly related to the machinery you use and quality counts and costs. I used a Roto zipp for the guide slots and a dremal for the power rail. The Roto zipp has a round base and the dremal has a router base attachment that other bases can be bolted to but it is not a very good choice for routing a track. 
Todd has found out that a round base plate is necissary to keep the wiggle out of the slot. A square base plate will not give you the smooth curves and straight lines needed for a good track. 
If I was to do another hand routed track I would look for these features in a router: Soft start, round base, multi speeds, micro depth adjustment, vacumm attachment,... the round base and micro depth adjustments being the most important. Also the ability to add bases to the router. That being said I like this one 

http://www.boschtools.com/products/tools/pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=PR20EVSNK

The attachments package will give you the round base or you can make one or use the offset base. 
I have seen one in a store but do not own one...yet. I was impressed!

You may be better off waiting a bit and getting good equipment even if it costs a little more or you have to save up. But I know once you get the bug it is hard to wait.

The next step is router bits: high speed steel bits will not do in mdf you will need carbide steel bits as they will stay sharp. The hss bits will get dull very fast. I have gone a step further and gotten milling bits... the ones machinests use, which you will have to get at a machinery supply house. I use "Thomas Skinners" Google them. Again a carbide steel, or tungston carbide bit. Buy two just in cast you break one on a sunday afternoon routing session, it happens.

Good luck with your track. Be forwarned that they are addictive. One is never enough.

Oh one other thing, Do a test piece., a straight and a curve, it will teach you a lot, give you practice and a small piece is easy to toss if you make a mistake.

Hope this helps

Cheers Ted


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Ted keep in mind that with the offset base on the Colt you lose the depth adjustment. The one's I saw did not come with any sort of round base though Bosch makes one that attaches to the square base. The Ridgid model caught my eye as it comes with a 3.5" round base mounted to it along with a square base and guide tool should you need them. The round Ridgid base out of the box will give 1.75" lane spacing if used with a guide strip in the first-slot. It too features micro-adjustment for depth as well as soft start.

NTx if you have a Woodcraft store nearby make these guys your friends. They usually *stock* 1/16" Freud straight bits (most stores consider this a special-order bit) as well as other cool stuff like this: http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=59 and this: http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=22199&ss= .


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## Tsooko (Oct 15, 2009)

Gene! :thumbsup:
You da man.
That ridged is an excellent choice. It even has more horse power then the bosch. The round base,... a definate plus and cheaper too. I'll see if I can find one next time at Home Depot. Here in Canada sometimes we don't have the choices you guys down south do.:wave:

Happy routing.

Cheers Ted


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I haven't been able to do much routing so far, especially since I can't get the work outside during the winter. No way I'm doing it in the house.

I purchased a Craftsman router and it comes with a 6" diameter round base. This base size is fairly useless for our purposes. And as far as I know there are no attachments for it, such as a radius tool. So you have to make a jig for both slot and rail routing, as well as a jig for routing curves (depending on your routing method). But it sure is powerful enough so that I have no trouble going through MDF.

It does not have variable speed, but that can be overcome with the Router Speed Control available at Harbor Freight for $20. Plus the RSC can be used with other tools as well as for varying the power going to the track; a very versatile little device.

In addition to the router, you need the tools and skill to make jigs. Without the jigs, you really can't do anything. Making the jigs may be more work than the actual routing of the track. Aside from getting the rail height correct, the jigs are where the real precision is required.

Joe


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

I read this thread with great interest today - it's a question I wondered about a lot. This afternoon I had the opportunity to stop into HD for a few minutes and there it was, the Ridgid router Joe recommended, round base, 99 clams, staring me down. I turned and ran while I could. Too many real life responsibilities and projects to indulge in another. Plus I don't have the tools & skills to make the jigs. 

But you guys keep whittling away at every barrier preventing a newbie from routing a smooth track. Maybe next winter. I'll keep learning and enjoying your excellent adventures for as long as I can. And being disciplined and building character. Yeah, that's the ticket.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Thanks Ted 

Some good points here...especially about tools and skills to make (and, to mount) jigs. As I said a drill press is a must for pin jigs. The pins need to be square to the baseplate and tight in their holes to function properly. The pins need to be round and true...a good source is drill blanks or even snapping the dumb ends off a few sacrificial 1/16 drill bits. #0 machine screws could also be used. For even better results with mdf, "glue-size" the slots with a water/glue mix then polish with super-fine sandpaper wrapped around an old credit card. Very tedious work but if you glue-size cut edges, when dried they can be polished as smooth as glass. It also will seal the cut slots from damage should any liquid get spilled into them. Which brings up another tool...a glue syringe to shoot the mix into the slots.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

SwamperGene said:


> Thanks Ted
> 
> For even better results with mdf, "glue-size" the slots with a water/glue mix then polish with super-fine sandpaper wrapped around an old credit card. Very tedious work but if you glue-size cut edges, when dried they can be polished as smooth as glass. It also will seal the cut slots from damage should any liquid get spilled into them. Which brings up another tool...a glue syringe to shoot the mix into the slots.


I have never heard the term "glue sizing" before, so I had to do a little reading from the link. But if you "injected" glue into the slots, wouldn't the glue settle on the bottom of the slot, not the sides (at least not as much)?

Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Wow, some great information guys! I was thinking about brushing some Future in the slots to help strengthen and preserve the shape. Heck, I may try dipping a whole piece to see how it turns out. I got my heart set on picking something up, tool wise, next week.


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## Tsooko (Oct 15, 2009)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Wow, some great information guys! I was thinking about brushing some Future in the slots to help strengthen and preserve the shape. Heck, I may try dipping a whole piece to see how it turns out. I got my heart set on picking something up, tool wise, next week.


Keep in mind there may be a really cool routing gig available soon. So you won't have to make one???
Cheers Ted


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Grandcheapskate said:


> I have never heard the term "glue sizing" before, so I had to do a little reading from the link. But if you "injected" glue into the slots, wouldn't the glue settle on the bottom of the slot, not the sides (at least not as much)?
> 
> Joe


Joe remember it is mixed on average 2 parts water to one part white or yellow glue (Titebond II works well)...about the consistency of skim milk. You need to brush it through the slot, the MDF will soak it up while doing this. Try it on the edge of a piece of MDF, then sand it smooth...you won't believe the difference between that and unsealed edges. The real bonus though is that a tiny spill won't ruin your track. You really shouldn't leave any edges "open"...I'm sure you've seen what unsealed mdf does when it gets wet?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Gene,
How about Future?


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

I just so happened to have a bottle of Future and a scrap piece of MDF. The Future acted like pure water, softened the MDF and made it swell. Why the glue/water mix doesn't I don't know...probably no binding agents in Future.

So no, I'd say Future would not do the trick.

:drunk:


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

SwamperGene said:


> You really shouldn't leave any edges "open"...I'm sure you've seen what unsealed mdf does when it gets wet?


Yes I have. In fact, you just gave me an idea. Maybe I should lay sheets of MDF on the basement floor in the event this Biblical rain doesn't let up. Then, once they soak up all the water, just haul them outside.

Joe


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