# 1966 WIP Captain kidd UPDATES



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

I will continue this project here, lots to do.
His coat shading is done, but not the sash,breeches,stockings and shoes.
I will be adding lots of pics and how to's here.

Randy


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Kidd is at this stage.Lots of tlc going into this kit, one of my favs.

Randy





































More lighter highlights will be added to face.Nothing isnt completed except for coat shading.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

It's coming along great Randy! 
It'll be a help to a lot of the guys to see how you used the silly putty for masking. It's a great tip!

Chris.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

He looks really good so far. Thanks for sharing!


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

You can see in the pics, that I dont concentrate in one area,I will go back and continue in that area,again I do this for color cordination,if I did the sash in yellow lets say,that colour wouldnt blend with the other colours, it would certainly be out of place.
The reason I did his breeches black, because there would be too much green, the stockings will add contrast in that area, same as the sash colour did.
With the green weeds, black is a better choice for the breeches.

The face shading will start to today as well as some of the base pieces, barrel, pick axe,
chest, etc.

It so easily to over do an Aurora Figure kit, like adding lots grime and filth to clothing,but I will add some wear to his shoes.There will be lots of weathering on base items.
I will add more pics later on today.

Happy Modeling
Randy


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

DETAILING FACE/HEAD

White was added to the base flesh, to make a whitest flesh,again this mixture was diluted using thinner, using a 000 hand brush, I applied the highlight flesh color by gently blotting the brush in the high areas,then brown was added to the base flesh, making a darker shadow tone, this color was added under eye, under chin and lip,and neck.

for the lower lip, red and blue was added to the base flesh colour.

Head band shadow shade-blue was added to violet color, a lighter shade of voilet will be added later.

Bow was roughed in using voilet.

Tomorrow the final whiter highlights will be added to cheeks, nose, chin.

Teeth-white added to dark brown, maiking them a semi rot look.


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

skippy1, on 21 May 2010 - 12:25 PM, said:

HI randy looking Great when you add the shadow's to clothing do you use the same color or do you add another color to the clothing color? this is 1 spot i am having trouble with THANKS rob


Rob, I use the same base colour, but add white to it, for a highlight,and a tad of black for the dark shadows for the small deep creases.But I use the base green colour for medium dark shade,pulling the trigger back a tad releasing more paint, resulting a darker shade of the base color.
This process is done is very thin layers.
I keep going back and fourth with dark and lights until I am satisfied,after when all my shades are completes on the coat, I take my original mixture of the dark green, mixed like a wash, then spray at a high psi like 18 psi, and tie in every together, and toned down some high spots that are too light.

I must add, the secret here is controling the airbrush, this takes alot of practice for some modelers.I aim the airbrush at different angles to obtain the right effect.
This method was used for the gladiator skin tones.But at the same time you can go darker with the same base colour, controling the trigger on a double action airbrush.

I know this may sound very complex, but it isnt really, in the near future I am going to buy a cam.Easier to show how this is done on video.

Randy


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## Parts Pit Mike (Jan 3, 2001)

Awesome.... as always!


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Fantastic job so far Randy :thumbsup:...thanks for sharing your paint techniques as far as how you get different color effects going!

MMM


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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

Great job Randy!!! I look forward to seeing this one done - great painting tips as well!!!
Steve


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Been working on this project, wanted to anchor the figure to base better, adding styrene round sprues, originaly the base had tiny nibs on base, didnt want to take a chance for figure to fall off base so I beefed it up.
I added holes in base using the small nibs for a guide for hole position.
Holes were drilled out with a pin vise in base, next I held the figure to base, a marker marked the spots on shoe soles.(marker nib poking through holes in base) next I cut round sprue, dry fitted figure on new pegs,ca glue was applied bottom of base, now pegs are glued in place...alignment perfect fit.
look at pics below. :armata_PDT_12: 

left foot hole








Right foot hole








shoe soles
















Next weathering clothes/shoes
Didnt want Kidd to looked like he just step out of a clothing store, the clothes were light dusted with Tamiya weathering pigment, using a make up blush brush to apply pigment and smoothing/blending.Go easy with this stuff, so easy to over do,just wanted a very light dusting, giving a wear look from being at sea for a few years.
I used light sand
Tamiya pigments








Before weathering


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

after weathering








































sash after weathering









Some of the weathering on breeches will be toned down just abit in places,shoes will have buckles painted brass, still lots of work to do.
Model on.....will keep you posted.


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Argsome!!


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## dklange (Apr 25, 2009)

*So very cool!!!* Thanks for keeping us posted. - Denis


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## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Looking great! Can't wait to see what you do with all the little details on the base of this kit.


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

That weathering you did on his outfit is perfect! Looking beautiful, Randy!


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## Moonman27 (Aug 26, 2008)

Awesome work as usual.


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## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

This is Great stuff Randy :thumbsup:
Thanks for all of this :thumbsup:
Mcdee


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thanks for the comments, I usually dont go to this extent on an AURORA figure kit doing weathering, because they are so easy to over do, I didnt weather the gladiator, because it would look out of place for some reason, but this kit looks alright with minor weathering, being a pirate out at sea for a few years, I would also weather Jesse James outfit also.Since some of the base parts will be weathered, it will all blend in nicely.

Hat weathered slighlty











Randy


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

buzzconroy said:


> Thanks for the comments, I usually dont go to this extent on an AURORA figure kit doing weathering, because they are so easy to over do, I didnt weather the gladiator, because it would look out of place for some reason, but this kit looks alright with minor weathering, being a pirate out at sea for a few years, I would also weather Jesse James outfit also.Since some of the base parts will be weathered, it will all blend in nicely.
> 
> Hat weathered slighlty
> 
> ...


Can I ask you, are they sprue pieces you use for painting the individual pieces. how do you get them to stick to the pieces. Please let me know


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

jaws62666 said:


> Can I ask you, are they sprue pieces you use for painting the individual pieces. how do you get them to stick to the pieces. Please let me know


They are just left over sprues, I tack them to parts using super glue/with accelerator.Great for holding parts while I paint or airbrush.I never touch my models with my bare hands, skin oil can stain the paint, I use latex and powder free examing gloves.

Randy


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

buzzconroy said:


> They are just left over sprues, I tack them to parts using super glue/with accelerator.Great for holding parts while I paint or airbrush.I never touch my models with my bare hands, skin oil can stain the paint, I use latex and powder free examing gloves.
> 
> Randy


and they just break off when you are finished


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

He's looking fantastic Randy!! I really like the way you've done the weathering. I was a little hesitant about the purple but it really looks good against the green- especially with the highlights.
I'm with Zorro- I can't wait to see what you do with the base....

Chris.


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

jaws62666 said:


> and they just break off when you are finished


Yes, just use a tiny drop of glue, the sprues will just snap off.

Randy


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## IanWilkinson (Apr 23, 2010)

WOW Randy this is comming together brilliant!.. have you done the other pirate kit in this range?


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

IanWilkinson said:


> WOW Randy this is comming together brilliant!.. have you done the other pirate kit in this range?


Yes, about 8 years ago, i want to redo some of it.I still have it in my showcase.

Randy


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

The lantern is going to be rusted, using the rustall kit, any interest on a tutorial step by step on this procedure? Lot of base accessories are almost done, sorry I could stop to take pics, I was on artistic flow.But I will explain how things were done if asked.

Pics comming soon, maybe this evening or earling morning.

Randy


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## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

buzzconroy said:


> The lantern is going to be rusted, using the rustall kit, any interest on a tutorial step by step on this procedure? Lot of base accessories are almost done, sorry I could stop to take pics, I was on artistic flow.But I will explain how things were done if asked.
> 
> Pics comming soon, maybe this evening or earling morning.
> 
> Randy


I've been thinking about using Rustall at some point and I for one would like to see how its done. Thanks for the offer.

Regards,
MattL


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Hi Randy, I would also be interested in seeing how the rust-all works. Thanks for asking!


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

my update-lastest progress

These items are now glued into place onto base, the money burlap bags are not finished yet as you can see, the shading in the creases needs to be more subtle, the highlight shading will be easier now, since the bags are glued to base, now it will be easier to add the light highlights in the correct spot, than doing it in your hand.

The chest

The brass on the chest has been tarnished by applying washes of flat black, to give it a weathered look, the chest wouldnt fit in if the brass was gleaming, it would stick right out like a sore thumb, because everything else is weathered,especially beside the weather barrel.










The Barrel

The barrel was base coated with black-grey, the slowly dry brush adding white to each layer, then washes of rust brown was added, very important
to let each layer of dry brushing to dry thoroughly, the dryi brushing was done with hardly no presure on brush, with very little of paint on brush.
Same method was done on rope, a little more highlight will be added on the rope.










driftwood/log with barnacles

I wanted the effect of sun bleached drift wood in mid stage of fading, more grey white highlights will be added.The base coat was dark grey, adding more white to mixture as layers of drybrushing is added.










The skull

The skull and bone were base coated with white, the airbrushed with a wash of brown, the small details were painted in by hand.
Wanted a transparent sort of look for he scorpion, greenish brown was the base coat, with clear orange and browns added, some scorpions are glossy.










You can see how things are really taking shape now, colors all blend in nicely, the weathering blend in also,
see how the green clothing and figure blends in with the base colors so far, with a worn subtle look.

I will start the lantern on Friday, just base coated it in enamel black.

Be free to ask questions, thanks for looking.


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## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Everything looks great Randy! :thumbsup: 

~RK~


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thanks everyone.
Randy


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Looks super! Thats going to be a real show stopper.


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## Moonman27 (Aug 26, 2008)

Buzz,that chest and barrel look great,but I never liked the way that scorpion rests on the skull tho. I think I will put mine on the ground. BTW,I have never seen a scorpion on the beach,I guess it's like the armadillos on a Dracula kit. I've seen a lot of crabs on beaches. I've also thought about using real sand,but might try that on my Moebius Mummy kit first. Can't wait to see it finished Buzz.:thumbsup:


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Moonman27 said:


> Buzz,that chest and barrel look great,but I never liked the way that scorpion rests on the skull tho. I think I will put mine on the ground. BTW,I have never seen a scorpion on the beach,I guess it's like the armadillos on a Dracula kit. I've seen a lot of crabs on beaches. I've also thought about using real sand,but might try that on my Moebius Mummy kit first. Can't wait to see it finished Buzz.:thumbsup:


I agree with you, the boxart has a crab on the skull, makes more sense, since it is original, I followed the instructions, be nice if there was a crab instead.I used real sand on the Sinbad test shot, turned out great,I just wanted to keep this simple since its an original 45 year old model.Auroras are so easy to over do imho.
Thanks

Randy


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## Dr. Syn (May 29, 2003)

Nice work on this. I have one waiting patiently in a box to be refurbished along with Blackbeard. You have inspired me. Maybe I'll dig him out.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

buzzconroy said:


> The lantern is going to be rusted, using the rustall kit, any interest on a tutorial step by step on this procedure? Lot of base accessories are almost done, sorry I could stop to take pics, I was on artistic flow.But I will explain how things were done if asked.
> 
> Pics comming soon, maybe this evening or earling morning.
> 
> Randy


I've never heard of Rustall (go ahead and gasp, fellas), but yes, I'm interested in step-by-step on the procedure...it's something that would definitely come in handy on other kits!


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

*gasp*.....


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

RUSTALL KIT










bottle # 1

Liquid rust

bottle # 2

black wash

bottle # 3

dead clear flat

bottle # real dirt










This is my first time trying this rustall, I found it very easy to do, anyone can do this.

First base coat

Enamel paint is recommended, flat grey, flat dark brown,flat black.
The rust wash may remove aryclic paint, so I took no chances.

The pick was painted flat black, by hand brush, while wet
I sprinkle some dirt on pick, do give a corrision look, when the rust wash is applied.
important do not airbrush the rust wash, it can damage your airbrush, because of fine rust particles.

Pic of first step of pick axe, flat enamal black with dirt.



















next step -adding rust wash after flat black had dried

The Lantern

I went ahead and did the lantern since it wash my first time, to experiment, and familar myself with rustall, so I can demostrate the tutorial correctly, rustall effects gets better with practice.
For my first time I am satisfied with the results, later I will paint the glass, using gloss, this will be covered in the kidd wip.

Feel free to ask any questions.

Lantern with some corrosion.
Randy



















Sorry about the slightly blurr pics, I try my best to take clear pics, my camera is very old.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Nice! That lantern and axe look really good!

Great tip!

MMM


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Very realistic look, Randy! Where does one find Rustall?


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

deadmanincfan said:


> Very realistic look, Randy! Where does one find Rustall?


Megahobby has it on ebay and online store,Hope this helps. 
randy


http://cgi.ebay.com/RUS1234-Rustall...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45eed2d151

online store

http://www.megahobby.com/rustallweatheringsystem.aspx


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Cool! Thank you, sir! :thumbsup:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Your work is really great. I've enjoyed the process so far. What I really like is seeing the step by step stuff, and in a style very different from my own painting style.


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

*Rusting and corrosion pickaxe*

*Step 1*

*Pick is painted flat black(enamel) while paint is wet,sprinkle dirt from bottle # 4 onto pic(I used a flat clean brush, dipped brush into dirt, and tapped it using my finger.*
*Let this dry throughly.*

*Pick with flat black and and dirt( the dirt will act as rust corrosion)*










*Step 2*

*First coat of Liquid rust is added to pick using a small clean brush,I dabbed the rust onto the pick, the rust is very light, dont want to go heavy, very little goes a long way, the pick will have a mild rust, not as excessive as the lantern.*
*See how the dirt acts as corrosion?*










*Step 3*

*after first coat of rust is dry, I add a little more, but random spots, showing corrosion in spots, again I want to keep the rust light.Keep adding rust until you are satisfied.*
*After all the rust has dried, black wash from bottle #2 is applied,one coat was sufficent.*
*See how the corrosion is slowly developing on pick?*










*Final step*

*I dipped a medium clean wide brush into the dirt, and dusted it into the pic, using a sweeping motion, then I took a clean make up blush brush and removed access dirt.*
*After drying over night, I added the dead flat coat, bottle #4*

*Thats all there is to it, its very easy to do, easier than painting,there is so many effects you can make from rustall or any other rusting kit.*
*The rust particles are in scale also, thats a bonus.*
*This will add some punch to the Kidd base , pick axe handle isnt weathered yet, needs to be done.*

*Final results, mild corrosion rust, a little darker than the lantern rust.*
*Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed the wips so far, lots more work to come.*










Thanks for the kind words much appreciated.


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Thanks Randy for taking the time to post the Rustall tutorial, I really appreciate it! :thumbsup:


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## phantom11 (Jul 12, 2007)

SUPERB work, and invaluable info in the tutorials. Thanks very, very much for making your skills and knowledge available to all!


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

You're very welcome everyone, thanks, like said this is my first time using this product, I will be trying it on the Aurora Dick Tracy fire escape, and on the girders from the superman kit.

Randy


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## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

djnick66 said:


> Your work is really great. I've enjoyed the process so far. What I really like is seeing the step by step stuff, and in a style very different from my own painting style.


Yes, most modellers have there own style, thats what makes this hobby so interesting.

Randy


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