# What is the design history of the Aurora HO slot cars?



## Thunder Road (Mar 24, 2012)

I know it started with the 'vibrator' models which were just before my time and then the "T-Jets", which are my favorites and with which I have history but I'm confused a bit after that. Reason I ask is that now that I am getting back into the hobby I am of course looking for parts of all kinds and I'm not sure what is what out there. A lot of times I am buying over Ebay so I don't want to get something that isn't compatible with my T-Jets. If anyone feels like taking the time to give me a brief run down on what came after the T-Jets I'd appreciate it. I have heard of 'AFX' and G series and G Plus...'Slimlines'...and all these phrases but not sure how it all goes together or what parts are compatible with T-Jets, if any. Any info will help so again, thanks.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Hmmm... After Tjets, let's see:

Slimline: Narrower chassis designed to fit under open-wheel type racer bodies. Virtually nothing interchanges between these and T-jets. (someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that...)

Wild Ones: exactly the same basic chassis as Tjets with a lower-ohm armature, upgraded pickup shoes (silver-plated?) and foam rear tires. (Help me out, someone: did these have stronger motor magnets?)

Tuff Ones: Plastic chassis casting again the same as Tjets, but with an even hotter arm and stronger magnets than Wild Ones. The electrical pieces riveted to the chassis are all plated, not just the pickup shoes. Commutator brushes are a different composition too, but still the same shape. Also had a numerically lower gear ratio for higher top speed, and wider wheels and tires that stuck out from under the body. Front wheels are independent, not both pressed onto the axle. 

AFX: lots of changes, but same basic pancake architecture. Body now snaps onto chassis instead of screw mounting. Redesigned gearplate which does not interchange with older models has one-piece riveted cluster gear instead of three-piece pressed driven gear/shaft/pinion. Axles mounted higher in chassis to lower CG. independent-turning front wheels on most models. Low-ohm armature with new notched commutator brushes. Cooling vents for motor in sides of chassis behind body mounts. 

Magna-Traction: Very similar to AFX in most ways except that the bottom of the chassis is cut out below magnets, and taller magnets installed to help attract car to track rails. New material used for chassis electrics, and commutator brush setup changed to include coil springs. Gearplate will exchange with earlier AFX. Body mount system same as AFX. 

After that, you get into G-Plus cars, which have inline motors. I'll let someone else take over here, as I know very little...

--rick


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## Thunder Road (Mar 24, 2012)

Thanks Rick, that's even more 'kinds' than I expected. Since my collection is strictly T-Jets are all the parts and bodies interchangeable (I see slimlines are not) between the different kinds? As I work on getting my cars operable I look at Ebay and have only pics to go by so...specifically things like tires, magnets, brushes, pick up shoes, etc etc. I'm guessing that if it doesn't 'look' like it will be useful, it won't be.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

wild ones also have silver content motor brushes. 
nearly all the parts of the pancake motors (slimline excluded) are interchangeable.
there are now parts and complete cars available from autoworldslotcars.com that can provide SOME parts for the original Aurora pancake cars too.


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## SplitPoster (May 16, 2006)

*Get Some Reading Material!*

Hey Thunder..

There are several books on Aurora slots. Some are pretty reasonable, some are out of print and pretty expensive. For somebody wanting a production sequence and background behind how and why things developed (and declined). "Aurora Slot Cars" by Thomas Graham is really very good. It's less than $20 on Amazon, and definitely worth it. Mr. Aurora, Bob Beers, has a spiral bound book that lists every model and most variations, "The Complete Color Guide to Aurora H.O. Slot Cars." The latter really is the Aurora companion, but if I were just starting out again I'd read the Graham book first, no question. Not only good information, but a fun read about what they attempted and adapted, and how it all came out. You definitely get a better understanding and appreciation for what's out there, as well as a solid timeline! 

It's really hard to get the big picture, 20+ years of production, in bits and pieces reading forum posts.

I am sure at some point some serious collector will say you need the John Clark guide, but they are upwards of $100+ "used" when you can find them. Makes you wonder (hint, hint, since there are more than enough "special" folks on here who could make it happen) why someone doesn't do a small reprint run of these softbound, benefitting a charity even. Even if the "values" and all are out of date, it would be nice for more people to have access to stuff like this. 
Soapbox: Seems like almost anything you touch that says Aurora is a collector's item (except speed corners Honda), it's a shame the information about the collector's items is a collector's item too. Stepping off soapbox. :thumbsup:

Jeff


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*The slotcar equivalent of the cockroach*

Well...

There's a huge amount of interchangeability. The obvious stuff fits together and works within reason for the most part. With results on either extreme, certain hybrids are extremely desirable; and to the designers credit, some of the combooberated mutants you see on Ebay will survive and limp on down the track in-spite of being miss assembled . 

Vintage stock or modified, the place to really watch is the motor/comm pit. It's important to match armatures and magnets correctly and learn to tune the motor brush springs. Always be on the look out for heat and excessive friction or binding. Remember that T-jets are tar burners and need regular oiling when they get squeaky. 

Otherwise everything you need to know is available at your fingertips with regard to configuration of the actual model types. In retrospect, I can get more in the way of parts for my T-jets, than I ever could back in the horse and buggy days. 

The rest is like falling off a log. It'll come back to ya.


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## Thunder Road (Mar 24, 2012)

Guessing I am more of a rookie here, sooo...dumb question ---> how does one go about matching magnets and armatures or tuning motor brush springs, etc. Are there threads for that kind of thing here on the site? I know these little guys are oil burners and I know where to oil them but as far as the tuning for speed and performance I have no clue. Are there books to learn from?


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## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

big can of worms here.

1 place to start is MAGNETS try some Dash , AW , JL in a tjet.
complete AutoWorld chassis has lots of good parts.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

there are many ways to match magnets. you can use an inexpensive digital battery operated scale from places like Harbor Freight. get the one with the clear cover. cut small holes in the cover to access the buttons when the cover is in place. with the cover in place, center a magnet over the tray and record the number showing on the display. use a sharpie pen and record the number on the magnet. then match the numbers. 
there are other methods using BBs and how many a magnet can pickup, but I am not familiar with them.
use the search feature near the top of any page here and search the forums for "matching magnets" and select 'posts' for more specific information.


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

ParkRNDL said:


> Hmmm... After Tjets, let's see:
> 
> Slimline: Narrower chassis designed to fit under open-wheel type racer bodies. Virtually nothing interchanges between these and T-jets. (someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that...)
> 
> --rick


Tires, wheels, and axels are compatible with Hot Rod/Indy, pickups and pickup springs with all TJETS.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

EVERYTHING you need to know and more is in the HT archives. Try the search feature.....or just scroll through until you see something related to one of your questions.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

what Bill said .....
I think
:thumbsup:


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## SouthLyonBen (Mar 14, 2012)

cwbam said:


> big can of worms here.
> 
> 1 place to start is MAGNETS try some Dash , AW , JL in a tjet.
> complete AutoWorld chassis has lots of good parts.


You know I was just looking at some AW chassis for $10 thinking "For good magnets, brushes, shoes, and an armature $10 is a pretty good price" I mean if you had an orig Aurora you wanted to overhaul you could do worse


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

You can also buy whole Complete NOS Aurora T-Jet chassis for $15 or Less(HotRod Chassis for as low as $12.50) ! And the slot vendors sell lots of separate NOS Aurora chassis parts- because they break down NOS chassis and sell the parts. You can get more T-Jet stuff now than ever before...Personally, I stick with NOS Aurora T-Jet parts, as I'm not too keen on half the parts that come with a JL or AW T-jet.... LOL- case in point, the other day I bought a brand new/UN-USED 1st Release AW '71 Corvette, and I wanted to close up the rear axle chassis holes a bit with a little CA Glue, and took the rear axle out(no problem). BUT, when I went to re-insert the OEM axle back into the one of the wheels again, it was tight(I was only using my hand, not a wheel press), and when I was pushing real hard- the Freakin AW Rear axle just BENT like soggy spaghetti ! Stay away from JL & AW axles- they are TRASH ! Anyway, I then used a NOS Aurora Axle, which is much harder steel and are Straight -with better cut splines.... Caveat Emptor


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## 88T-BIRD (Jan 14, 2000)

Ralphthe3rd said:


> You can also buy whole Complete NOS Aurora T-Jet chassis for $15 or Less(HotRod Chassis for as low as $12.50) ! And the slot vendors sell lots of separate NOS Aurora chassis parts- because they break down NOS chassis and sell the parts. You can get more T-Jet stuff now than ever before...Personally, I stick with NOS Aurora T-Jet parts, as I'm not too keen on half the parts that come with a JL or AW T-jet.... LOL- case in point, the other day I bought a brand new/UN-USED 1st Release AW '71 Corvette, and I wanted to close up the rear axle chassis holes a bit with a little CA Glue, and took the rear axle out(no problem). BUT, when I went to re-insert the OEM axle back into the one of the wheels again, it was tight(I was only using my hand, not a wheel press), and when I was pushing real hard- the Freakin AW Rear axle just BENT like soggy spaghetti ! Stay away from JL & AW axles- they are TRASH ! Anyway, I then used a NOS Aurora Axle, which is much harder steel and are Straight -with better cut splines.... Caveat Emptor


I have threaded and sold hundreds of JL/AW rear axles never did I bend or twist one because it was to soft????????????????????


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

I have bent them,and sometimes they come that way.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*Oh Really- LOL !*



88T-BIRD said:


> I have threaded and sold hundreds of JL/AW rear axles never did I bend or twist one because it was to soft????????????????????


 I only own 4 JL/AW chassis T-Jets. And all Four have had soft rear axles which were bent when changing wheels- and had to be replaced with Aurora Axles. I (only) own 30 Aurora T-Jets, and not one has had a bent axle, even when I changed wheels by hand. I acquired only two T-jets which had AJ's threaded axles, and one was bent slightly right at the threaded portion..... As for inlines, I have about 40, and only a couple tyco ever had bent axles.

LOL....everyone else knows(except for you my friend) how Soft those JL/AW T-jets axles are. If you don't believe me, just start a poll, and you'll see the truth.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Axle?*

Axe hell is more like it.

Everyone knows you have to use Fisher Price's special adapter for installing those A-Dubya PLAYDOH axles. I believe both Hasbro and Kenner make versions as well.

As for the axles themselves; if ya dont believe me, crack one open by bending it in half and look inside....scho 'nuff....it's silver playdoh. So ya really cant blame them; it's awfully hard to machine a decent axle from a cowpie.

All kidding aside, I've found few that were actually straight enough to pass muster and the fact is that they are easily distorted if caution isnt exercised during removal or re-use.


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## 88T-BIRD (Jan 14, 2000)

Ralphthe3rd said:


> I only own 4 JL/AW chassis T-Jets. And all Four have had soft rear axles which were bent when changing wheels- and had to be replaced with Aurora Axles. I (only) own 30 Aurora T-Jets, and not one has had a bent axle, even when I changed wheels by hand. I acquired only two T-jets which had AJ's threaded axles, and one was bent slightly right at the threaded portion..... As for inlines, I have about 40, and only a couple tyco ever had bent axles.
> 
> LOL....everyone else knows(except for you my friend) how Soft those JL/AW T-jets axles are. If you don't believe me, just start a poll, and you'll see the truth.


Like I said, *I threaded and sold hundreds*, if they were that soft and bent I would not have been able to thread them in my machine. I also sold lots of JL cars that I installed JW's Delrin Wheel onto those axle and never bent one. Maybe if you stop using a hammer to install yours you might have better luck!


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## oddrods (Feb 6, 2007)

Count me in as one to experience many factory bent and soon to bend AW/JL.


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## Thunder Road (Mar 24, 2012)

*Back to magnets*

This thing about magnets....I see them being sold on Ebay...advertised as original or NOS or whatever. They show a slew of them all stuck together and up for sale. Lets say they are 30-40 year old magnets, are they still good or do magnets give out over time. Also, if you end up with said horde o'magnets is all that matters in a motor compartment is that they are opposites? ANY N and S opposing magnet will do?


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

alpink said:


> there are many ways to match magnets. you can use an inexpensive digital battery operated scale from places like Harbor Freight. get the one with the clear cover. cut small holes in the cover to access the buttons when the cover is in place. with the cover in place, center a magnet over the tray and record the number showing on the display.


I don't understand this. Are you saying the weight of the magnet is the determineing fact in matching magnets? Or is there a different type of scale you are refferring to?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

paying attention?

" with the cover in place, center a magnet over the tray "

kindly read the post again and then I will explain again further.


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

alpink said:


> paying attention?
> 
> " with the cover in place, center a magnet over the tray "
> 
> kindly read the post again and then I will explain again further.


Actually I read it several times before I posted and I still don't get it. What cover are you refferring to?


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

I even looked up the scale. Is this the one you are refferring to?

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-gram-digital-scale-97920.html


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

exactly the scale I am referring to.

the clear plastic tray you see on the scale is the cover that protects it.
when you click it on as a protective cover and place a magnet on it, without the magnet touching the metal scale tray, the metal scale tray will be attracted to the magnet and a number will be displayed on the digital readout of the scale indicating a recordable and comparable value.
writing this number on the single magnet you have on the clear plastic cover will enable you to match it a magnet of opposite polarity that nearly or exactly matches the number.

I think I have read this in depth on other threads on this forum, but i might be mistaken.

I am not the brightest person to ask questions of because I have a hard time putting my thoughts into words that other people understand easily.

perhaps someone who is more eloquent and has a better mastery of the American/English language could explain this better than I?
hopefully one or more of those persons will be willing to post here and clear up this ever deepening mystery?

.


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

No, I think you did just fine explaining it. I guess I'm surprised that the magnetism would read on the scale as opposed to the weight. I'm not the smartest guy either but I'm not afraid to ask a question I don't understand.

Thanks for the explanation. I'm going to Harbor Freight tomorrow and get one.


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## Thunder Road (Mar 24, 2012)

"Magnetic forces are forces that arise from the movement of electrical charge. Maxwell's equations and the Biot-Savart law describe the origin and behavior of the fields that govern these forces. Thus, magnetism is seen whenever electrically charged particles are in motion. This can arise either from movement of electrons in an electric current, resulting in "electromagnetism", or from the quantum-mechanical spin and orbital motion of electrons, resulting in what are known as "permanent magnets". Electron spin is the dominant effect within atoms. The so-called 'orbital motion' of electrons around the nucleus is a secondary effect that slightly modifies the magnetic field created by spin.

The magnetic force is actually due[3] to the finite speed (the speed of light) of a disturbance of the electric field which gives rise to forces that appear to be acting along a line at right angles to the charges. In effect, the magnetic force is the portion of the electric force directed to where the charge used to be. For this reason magnetism can be considered to be basically an electric force that is a direct consequence of relativity."

I think that clears it all up nicely >cough< (yeah I have no clue either, lol)


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Gerome, try this thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=335986

Scroll down to post #5, there's some pics and stuff that may help. 

--rick


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

ParkRNDL said:


> Gerome, try this thread:
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=335986
> 
> ...


Thanks Rick. That makes sense.


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

Ok, I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of these scales. They were on sale for $11.99. It does and excellent job of measureing magnets. I did notice that to get accurate matching data you have to position the magnet in the same spot each time as placing a magnet off center will vary the reading. I took the case off and positioned a magnet on the back side and spray painted the magnet causing an outline so when you close the case you can see where to position the magnet.

I was really surprised in the defferent strengths. Dash magnets are fairly close. Super II's vary quite a bit and the original t-jet magnets are all over the place.

Great tool and great find on this. Thanks to whomever figured it out.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

good idea with the spray paint. i may try that with mine. i know it wasn't me who first tried the scale, i just read about it in an even older thread... 

--rick


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