# 18 ich gantry



## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

got side tracked on the new reift but now I settled down to start Henries gantry followed by what Im sure well be a slow saucer build so I dont screw it up.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

Im using pro weld and was wondering whats the best way to apply ? Im using a paint brush.


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

woof359 said:


> Im using pro weld and was wondering whats the best way to apply ? Im using a paint brush.


I found some hypos used to fill ink/toner cartriges that have metal needle tips not sharp, just plain.. gonna give those a try,, experimented with water and the drops are very controllable cappilary action is good i guess


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## Moonman27 (Aug 26, 2008)

Ahh!! Get that Toyota part box away from your model! You trying to jinx yourself?! I been considering getting one of those launch gantrys,parts look nice. Keep the progress reports coming!:thumbsup:


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


> Im using pro weld and was wondering whats the best way to apply ? Im using a paint brush.



I've been working on the smaller 12 inch and just slopping on the pro weld with a cheap brush. Also clamping the parts over night has helped too.
Its a fun build and I will get the 18 inch version soon.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)




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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


>



Looks great!


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## XMAN64 (Dec 30, 2009)

Congratulation......
which type of pro-weld did you use?
The instructions say to use ambrose brand. But all I have been able to find is the ambroid brand.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

XMAN64 said:


> Congratulation......
> which type of pro-weld did you use?
> The instructions say to use ambrose brand. But all I have been able to find is the ambroid brand.



I don't believe there IS an ambrose brand. Every time I googled it, it always came up as ambroid.


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

That is looking great, woof - You got me thinking of getting one now.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

I used Ambroide Pro Weld and a cheep paint brush. Im thinking of using rivet heads from the RailRoad section of my LHS and then painting the whole thing that flat brown you see modern day steel girders painted then Ill spray the front of the gantry parts with flat white like all Canaveral launch sites and look around for OSHA safty decals.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

woof359 said:


> I used Ambroide Pro Weld and a cheep paint brush. Im thinking of using rivet heads from the RailRoad section of my LHS and then painting the whole thing that flat brown you see modern day steel girders painted then Ill spray the front of the gantry parts with flat white like all Canaveral launch sites and look around for OSHA safty decals.


Thanks for the info.....:wave: It will be some time before I get to mine. I hope you post pictures, I love your thinking with the paint.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


> I used Ambroide Pro Weld and a cheep paint brush. Im thinking of using rivet heads from the RailRoad section of my LHS and then painting the whole thing that flat brown you see modern day steel girders painted then Ill spray the front of the gantry parts with flat white like all Canaveral launch sites and look around for OSHA safty decals.


I used the heads of straight pins I clipped off and drilled small holes in even increments and glued each and every one in place. Big mistake. Takes forever! Then I found the site that sells miniature rivets and ordered a supply for when I get the bigger kit. Live and learn I guess...
I didn't use the wire mesh supplied-I substituted brass rod and with my trusty dremel drill press I drilled out holes for the pieces of brass rod and then I'll glue some half-rod pieces around for the railing. The dremel drill press made that easy.


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## XMAN64 (Dec 30, 2009)

> Liskorea317 wrote :Then I found the site that sells miniature rivets and ordered a supply for when I get the bigger kit. Live and learn I guess...


 do you have a link ?


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

XMAN64 said:


> do you have a link ?


Sure! Here it is:
http://www.scalehardware.com/

They have good fast service!


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

liskorea317 said:


> Looks great!


Can you post a close up shot?


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


>



Can you post a close up shot?


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Beat me to asking the same question. But it looks like the same site I found when I googled it.

I still think that there's a lot of cutting to do tho.?


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

see if this works, legs are glued but not to the circle

http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x243/woof359/gantry/


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

woof359 said:


> see if this works, legs are glued but not to the circle
> 
> http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x243/woof359/gantry/


Sweet.......:thumbsup: I'm so happy I got one and your fine work tells me it's going to look great when done........ Post more pictures, please.....:wave:

P.S., I think I saw the one photo of you at the Post Office...... How come no reward?????:tongue:


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

Henry did a nice job, it seems to fit the bottom hll tight, it comes with rivit decals but i thought somthing more 3D wood look better, I need to do some reserch of real Cape towers to see how they look up close.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

The raised detail can be added by drilling small holes with a pin vise and using the heads of straight pins for the rivits. It is not difficult but it takes a LONG time to do.




Geminibuildups

Gemini Model Build-Up Studios
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

geminibuildups said:


> The raised detail can be added by drilling small holes with a pin vise and using the heads of straight pins for the rivits. It is not difficult but it takes a LONG time to do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I did that for the 12 inch version-it DOES take a long time, but on the 18 inch version I got the mini rivets on line. And the dremel drill press set up for more precise drilling.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

the 1/8 inch girder piece take for ever, slow monotious work


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

get yourselves a bunch of Model RR brass castings of "Nut-Bolt-Washer" for the size you want, make a mold and run off a few hundred. you just glue them in place...


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

geminibuildups said:


> The raised detail can be added by drilling small holes with a pin vise and using the heads of straight pins for the rivits. It is not difficult but it takes a LONG time to do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html

Wouldn't this work?


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

teslabe said:


> http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html
> 
> Wouldn't this work?


Even the AR88009 are a little small for the 18 inch Gantry. They would have worked for the 12 inch...but they are a bit pricey. 14 dollars a sheet and its not all one size.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

I can't help thinking Chinese or Swiss cookery.

How about something in copper?










(runs and hides)


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

so if the PL kit was 1/48th what scale is this saucer ?


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

geminibuildups said:


> The raised detail can be added by drilling small holes with a pin vise and using the heads of straight pins for the rivits. It is not difficult but it takes a LONG time to do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Or the grandt line rivets, maybe the 063s. You can just cut off the head and cement them directly to the model w/o drilling holes. Should be available in any model railroading store. 
http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/augmentables_pages.htm


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Woof -- It's looking really nice!

--H


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*awsome kit*



g_xii said:


> Woof -- It's looking really nice!
> 
> --H



much easier to assemble than I though, the weather turned warm here so the build has slowed...................


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


> much easier to assemble than I though, the weather turned warm here so the build has slowed...................


I just ordered mine. Made a few errors on the 12 inch version that won't be repeated on the 18 inch-mainly making square cuts...but it is an awesome kit.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

liskorea317 said:


> I just ordered mine. Made a few errors on the 12 inch version that won't be repeated on the 18 inch-mainly making square cuts...but it is an awesome kit.


Actually, I think the larger one is easier to build. Do you have a tool called the "Chopper II"? It is invaluable with those little strips, it's not very expensive and you'll find thousands of uses for it as it comes with angled jigs!

Here's a link:

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/53-69-4.htm



--Henry


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

g_xii said:


> Actually, I think the larger one is easier to build. Do you have a tool called the "Chopper II"? It is invaluable with those little strips, it's not very expensive and you'll find thousands of uses for it as it comes with angled jigs!
> 
> Here's a link:
> 
> ...


I have heard of it but getting it here to Korea would be a bit pricey so I bought a little aluminum hobby miter box with razor saw off ebay for about 8 bucks. Its been very helpful especially since I decided to use plastruct rods for the railings around the perimeter and center of the platform. I wish I had it before I started cutting, but the new kit should be far easier.
I am happy with the way the smaller kit has been coming out though.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

i coodnt find any rivits heads here localy, i did buy some styrene rod that Ill try cutting.a chopper wood make life so much easier.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

liskorea317 said:


> I have heard of it but getting it here to Korea would be a bit pricey so I bought a little aluminum hobby miter box with razor saw off ebay for about 8 bucks. Its been very helpful especially since I decided to use plastruct rods for the railings around the perimeter and center of the platform. I wish I had it before I started cutting, but the new kit should be far easier.
> I am happy with the way the smaller kit has been coming out though.


Your solution should work well -- all you need to do is carefully measure, and then score the strip. THen just bend it, and you get a nice, crisp break. As long as your score was straight, that is! 

I believe you about shipping prices! I've never shipped to Korea, but shipping to Japan runs about $34 USD, and I think you are limited to either two or four pounds in weight. I wish it was cheaper!

--H


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

woof359 said:


> i coodnt find any rivits heads here localy, i did buy some styrene rod that Ill try cutting.a chopper wood make life so much easier.


Woof -- get a chopper! Trust me - you'll be glad you did! 

--H


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*rivits*

bet I spelled that wrong (-:. with the warm weather and so many things to do out side the gantry has taken a place lower on the llist to get done, but any one know a web sitwhere I can order rivit heads for the gantry ? my local shop was no help and chopping the styrene rods isnt working .


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## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

rivet....rivet...rivet....


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


> bet I spelled that wrong (-:. with the warm weather and so many things to do out side the gantry has taken a place lower on the llist to get done, but any one know a web sitwhere I can order rivit heads for the gantry ? my local shop was no help and chopping the styrene rods isnt working .


http://www.scalehardware.com/


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

ill have to go count the rivets on the decals to see how many I need, thanks for the site.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

woof359 said:


> ill have to go count the rivets on the decals to see how many I need, thanks for the site.


Don't go by how many are on the decal sheet -- I just filled up 1/2 sheet of decal paper with mostly rivets when I made them, figuring if anyone screwed up, there would be plenty of extras included. Measure and then count directly from the model if you are paying a premium price for special rivet decals!

--Henry


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

woof359 said:


> i coodnt find any rivits heads here localy, i did buy some styrene rod that Ill try cutting.a chopper wood make life so much easier.


I have some pics under "my H. L. Hunley scratchbuild" in the Military/Aircraft model thread that shows how I did the 1000+ rivets on the Hunley using styrene rod. 
You can also use an ordinary paper cutter to cut styrene up to .040 thick. I used one to cut parts for my J2 launch towers as well as the ceiling beam kits. I just tacked strips on the board with superglue to serve as guides for cutting the proper angles needed, I also added a backstop so that every piece is cut the exact same length. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, you can get one fairly cheap, especially after going to their website and printing their weekly internet ad coupon, it vaires from as little as 25% to as much as 40% off on a single item.

Here is the rivet info:
I am drilling a hole for each rivet, inserting a styrene rod in the hole and cutting it off, leaving about 1/16 of an inch exposed. I then heat the end of the exposed rod which causes it to form a mushroom shape, perfect for a rivet and then I press it the rest of the way into the hole. After doing about 20 or so, I brush a light coat of Tenax over the rivet heads, sealing them into place. I have quit counting, at last count I had 925 rivets, that was before I started the wide strips down each side of the Hunley.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=111545&d=1277854886
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=111546&d=1277854886
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=111547&d=1277854886


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

what do you use to heat the rod ends ?


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

woof359 said:


> what do you use to heat the rod ends ?


I carefully used an ordinary bic lighter, with the flame adjusted low. It only takes a just second to do a row of 10 or so at a time. Of course, you don't let the flame actually contact the rod or the model, just get it close enough that the heat causes the rod to form a mushroom top. Naturally I experimented a little before trying this on the model because if the rod gets too hot, it will ignite. You can also use a soldering iron held close to the end of the rod, it just takes longer.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

kenlee said:


> I carefully used an ordinary bic lighter, with the flame adjusted low. It only takes a just second to do a row of 10 or so at a time. Of course, you don't let the flame actually contact the rod or the model, just get it close enough that the heat causes the rod to form a mushroom top. Naturally I experimented a little before trying this on the model because if the rod gets too hot, it will ignite. You can also use a soldering iron held close to the end of the rod, it just takes longer.


That method might be a problem with this kit. The place where the rivets need to go is a 1/4" x .15 strip styrene, and is about as thick as _maybe_ cardstock. I think the stip would warp if it were exposed to enough heat to mushroom the rod in the procedure you are describing. 

Doesn't someone sell rivet decals that "swell" up when they are applied? I seem to remember seeing that once!

--Henry


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Archer sells rivet decals.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

djnick66 said:


> Archer sells rivet decals.


Is Archer the company that sells the ones that swell up after you apply them? I include just regular rivet decals with the kit, but I remember seeing somewhere about these decals that apply flat, and then rise a bit to give a more realistic look. I've never bought any, nor have I tried any, but I think its an interesting idea.

--Henry


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

g_xii said:


> That method might be a problem with this kit. The place where the rivets need to go is a 1/4" x .15 strip styrene, and is about as thick as _maybe_ cardstock. I think the stip would warp if it were exposed to enough heat to mushroom the rod in the procedure you are describing.
> 
> Doesn't someone sell rivet decals that "swell" up when they are applied? I seem to remember seeing that once!
> 
> --Henry


You could make the rivets as described on a scrap of styrene, slice them off and then attach them to the kit part, time consuming, but if you buy rivets, they too will have to be placed one by one. Knowing the large number of rivets required, I would probably go with decals.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

kenlee said:


> You could make the rivets as described on a scrap of styrene, slice them off and then attach them to the kit part, time consuming, but if you buy rivets, they too will have to be placed one by one. Knowing the large number of rivets required, I would probably go with decals.


That's why I included them! Although that idea about using the head of a pin would be just perfect -- you could heat them a bit, and push them right into the model! But as you say, it would be very time consuming doing them one by one! 

--Henry


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

Any reason you can't use a pin vice to drill holes, then cut the heads off of normal straight pins and insert them into the holes?

Would look realistic and be pretty safe to do.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

johncal said:


> Any reason you can't use a pin vice to drill holes, then cut the heads off of normal straight pins and insert them into the holes?
> 
> Would look realistic and be pretty safe to do.


That's what I was referring to above, John. I thought a bit of a smaller hole than the thickness of the pin, then push in a heated pin. Should seal it nicely. But there are over 300 rivets in that model -- it would really take a long time to do!

--Henry


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

My scratchbuilt Disney Nautilus has 3000+ rivets I'm three quarters of the way finished with the rivet application. I do about 50 a night while watching television using heated styrene rod ends, cutting and applying each ONE by ONE.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Ductapeforever said:


> My scratchbuilt Disney Nautilus has 3000+ rivets I'm three quarters of the way finished with the rivet application. I do about 50 a night while watching television using heated styrene rod ends, cutting and applying each ONE by ONE.


And you have time for a life when??? 

--Henry


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

g_xii said:


> That's what I was referring to above, John. I thought a bit of a smaller hole than the thickness of the pin, then push in a heated pin. Should seal it nicely. But there are over 300 rivets in that model -- it would really take a long time to do!
> 
> --Henry


....well when I built mt Titanic, I had to drill out 1000+ portholes, debur from the inside and then redrill to clear the plastic from the holes. I guess I'm a maniac, but what's a little work for realism!

I guess we both had the same basic idea, so MAYBE there's some merit to it! Besides, I spent endless hours masking off and spraying my freezing tube back panels to paint them in the 3 basic colors they require and get it perfect, but I guess you always pay the price for realism.

I guess if he wants TRUE realism, he's put the dumpster up there that Dr. Smith dumped the security guard into. Oh no, now someone will probably do it.

Besides, if he does all that work, he can brag to his friends that he hand drilled over 300 holes and inserted cut off pins...... what a guy!


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

Ductapeforever said:


> My scratchbuilt Disney Nautilus has 3000+ rivets I'm three quarters of the way finished with the rivet application. I do about 50 a night while watching television using heated styrene rod ends, cutting and applying each ONE by ONE.


Awesome!


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*pins*

i may cut a few pins and see how they look in scratch styrene, what type of adhesive do you think wood work best ?


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

woof359 said:


> i may cut a few pins and see how they look in scratch styrene, what type of adhesive do you think wood work best ?


I bought a box of straight pins and cut the heads off about 1/8 down. You have to make sure that the heads are all rounded because sometimes the pins are distorted. I just used a dot of super glue to hold them. Any excess I wiped off with thinner. I cut all the pins first-about 300 of them, then drilled, then placed them. Its easier if you don't add the strip plastic to the front and back edges first. Save that till last!


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

weather turned cold here, so its back to the gantry project, the 18 inch gantry has taken a back seat to the PL size gantry.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Henry, I have all the time in the world as a recovering Cardiac Patient. If I have anymore trouble I get a New Heart.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Ductapeforever said:


> Henry, I have all the time in the world as a recovering Cardiac Patient. If I have anymore trouble I get a New Heart.


Wow! Did the room suddenly get quiet or what?

In all seriousness, how are you doing these days?

--Henry


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi Herb, glad to see you back and I hope you get better and don't need that new heart.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

OT Update: Doc says I'm doing great. Tests don't warrent any action at this point. I have 1 small blockage they're treating with drugs, and I may yet be able to return to the bench to tackle my backlog of models.


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## lisfan (Feb 15, 1999)

Moonman27 said:


> Ahh!! Get that Toyota part box away from your model! You trying to jinx yourself?! I been considering getting one of those launch gantrys,parts look nice. Keep the progress reports coming!:thumbsup:


isnt that the fix for the gas pedal in the J2? she wont suddenly accelerate into hyper drive !!!!!!!!!!!!:tongue::hat::wave:


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## lisfan (Feb 15, 1999)

Ductapeforever said:


> Henry, I have all the time in the world as a recovering Cardiac Patient. If I have anymore trouble I get a New Heart.


. i will say some prayers everything will be ok for you. God bless:thumbsup:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Ductapeforever said:


> OT Update: Doc says I'm doing great. Tests don't warrent any action at this point. I have 1 small blockage they're treating with drugs, and I may yet be able to return to the bench to tackle my backlog of models.


 
:thumbsup: Great, it's not stents (I possess 2 of 'em)! Welcome back, Doc!!!! :wave:


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

They can't do much more to the heart I have. Scorecard is as follows: 1 quadrupal bypass, 3 stents, 5 angioplasties. Next up a transplant from a donor ...or a Jarvic.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

You should check with your physician about adult stem cell procedures for repairing ailing hearts. There have been some quite remarkable strides lately in that area, where severely damaged hearts have been repaired and rejuvenated with this process, and the patients have shown almost miraculous recovery.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*PL gantry*

I decided to put away the Moebius gantry and start on henry's gantry for the Polar kit, its a quick build and parts are just as nice as the bigger kit.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

These both look great, looking forward to seeing more. Sorry about the highjack...didn't intend to turn this into a personal health update.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

good to hear your feeling better, always good to know how friends are doing. (-:


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