# Type of Model Putty?



## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Hey guys. I've been using Squadon Green and White putty, and it sucks. Is there another type of putty I can purchase that will do a better job? What would you guys recommend?


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty...comes in a big ol' tube, cost you around $3.50. Check the automotive section at Walmart. :thumbsup:


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

I've been using Tamiya Putty with good results the last year or two. My only problem with it is that some tubes can be a bit "watery" than others. And I've only used it with styrene and ABS kits.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

aves apoxie sculpt. best stuff ever.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I second the recommendation for the Tamiya putty. It does not shrink after you feather it like squadron does.
For large gaps, I also recommend the Aves Apoxie. It is easy to use and does not shrink.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I use the Bondo mentioned earlier for most of my work. I also have used the others and wasn't completely happy with them either. The Bondo does exhibit a bit of shrinkage, I think, but it is very easy to sand to the final shape. I also do use Aves Apoxie for more critical jobs or where I am going to do some reshaping. My biggest complaint with Aves is getting it to stick when I am only applying a very small amount.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Evercoat Easy Sand.

This is an easy to use 2-part system created for auto body work. I prefer it to Bondo because although (as the name suggests) it's easy to sand, it also cures very, very hard, dries very, very fast (you can sand this stuff twenty minutes after you apply it), and it will not shrink over time. It can be thinned with lacquer thinner to fill tiny little dings or scratches, or left "pasty" for big gaps and seams.

I've tried every putty out there, and Evercoat is the best, most versatile product on the market for basic model kit construction needs. Once you try it you'll never go back.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Where would one find this wondrous product, Sir Rob?


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Carson Dyle said:


> Evercoat Easy Sand.
> 
> This is an easy to use 2-part system created for auto body work. I prefer it to Bondo because although (as the name suggests) it's easy to sand, it also cures very, very hard, dries very, very fast (you can sand this stuff twenty minutes after you apply it), and it will not shrink over time. It can be thinned with lacquer thinner to fill tiny little dings or scratches, or left "pasty" for big gaps and seams.
> 
> I've tried every putty out there, and Evercoat is the best, most versatile product on the market for basic model kit construction needs. Once you try it you'll never go back.



That sounds complicated. I simply want something I can put into the crack, let it dry, then sand. I don't want to have to mix compounds or thin it or anything like that.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

deadmanincfan said:


> Where would one find this wondrous product, Sir Rob?


Well, I get mine from a local auto body supply shop, but I'm sure it's available from online sources. One tube will probably last you for a couple years, depending on how much modeling you do.

As for Evercoat being "complicated" to use, all you have to be able to do is dispense a silver-dollar sized portion onto a suitable mixing surface (I usually grab a piece of my wife's baking paper). Top this off with a dime-sized dab of the hardener, mix the two together, and you're good to go. It takes, literally, ten seconds. Also, you don't _have_ to thin it; it's simply an option if you need to fill hairline cracks.

The only reason I use Evercoat is because it makes puttying chores easier and less time-consuming. 

You know what's complicated? Trying to get good results from inferior products (e.g. that squadron crap).


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

So no need to worry about getting it 50/50? Thanks, Rob! Yer a pal! :thumbsup:


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

deadmanincfan said:


> So no need to worry about getting it 50/50?


Nope. 

The putty is white, the hardener is blue, and you just mix in enough of the latter to achieve a nice, even light blue. The process could not be simpler.

The really great thing about Evercoat is how fast it cures. It was designed for automotive applications (where time is money), and can be sanded in about twenty minutes -- less in most cases.

Aves is great for sculpting large sections, but it dries FAR too hard for most types of seam-filling work. The Tamiya stuff is okay, but my modeling time is limited, and I don't like having to wait for the stuff to set.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

You can get the Evercoat at amazon.com too!


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

KUROK said:


> You can get the Evercoat at amazon.com too!


Sweet! Thanks for the info, guys! :thumbsup:


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

I went to the hobby shop, and all they had was Squadron and Mr. White Putty. I got the Mr. White Putty. We'll see how it goes. If that doesn't work out, I'll try Taymia.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I'm gonna give that Evercoat a try; my weekend modelling time is only limited to about 4 hours, tops (if I'm lucky), and a lot of that precious time is wasted waiting for putty to cure so I can sand it, primer it, sand it again, primer it, and do my final coating.
I've been using Squadron for years, but "free time" (whatever THAT is) is valuable, and I like having the best results possible on my builds.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

KUROK said:


> You can get the Evercoat at amazon.com too!


I checked Amazon for it last night, and all they had was a fibreglass product from Evercoat...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=18YA4YKK4FX3DV4CWQYS


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## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

I just looked at the products on the company sites for Aves and for Evercoat.

Rob, would you say that if time is not a factor, Aves is perfectly appropriate for seams and surface imperfections?

For example, in working with the PL 1/350 refit, I would want something that I can use to fabricate parts and do some major sculpting/resurfacing/re-scribe on, as well as the finer surface imperfections and seam filling.

When you say that Aves dries too hard, do you mean that it is too hard to sand or scribe detail in, or do you mean that it just takes a lot longer to sand it down?

I see there's a special ingredient in the Evercoat for sanding ease, but for me, I'd be happier if I could kill two birds with one lump of cured putty.

What do you think?


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Carson Dyle said:


> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=18YA4YKK4FX3DV4CWQYS


Thankee, Rob! And you say a tube will last a couple years or so depending on the amount of modeling? Just out of curiosity (if, heaven forfend, I go into a non-building spell), what kind of shelf life does it have once opened?


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Sorry to sound like a total noob here guys, but is there a tutorial on how to putty seams? I am not having good luck with it and it's about to make me give up on modeling for good. It's so frustrating. I make a mess and barely get any putty into the cracks. I have had to fill the same seam at least 5 times to fill it.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

One great tip passed on to us by buzzconroy is: run a strip of masking tape down the part on either side of the seam to be filled (just slightly away from the seam). Apply putty and, when dry, remove the tape. This helps keep the putty in the area needing work. Just don't glop too much putty on the seam...a little at a time is more desirable than a huge wad of putty that takes forever to dry.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Gunstar1 said:


> Rob, would you say that if time is not a factor, Aves is perfectly appropriate for seams and surface imperfections?


I’d use Aves to fabricate parts, but never to fill seams. Reason being, the stuff cures harder than the surrounding work surface, so you end up sanding down areas you want to preserve while trying to get rid of areas you don’t.

I mean, whatever works for you, but I personally would never recommend Aves for seam-filling chores.



deadmanincfan said:


> what kind of shelf life does it have once opened?


Properly sealed and stored, a tube (or jar) of Evercoat should last indefinitely. 



PixelMagic said:


> Sorry to sound like a total noob here guys, but is there a tutorial on how to putty seams? I am not having good luck with it and it's about to make me give up on modeling for good. It's so frustrating. I make a mess and barely get any putty into the cracks. I have had to fill the same seam at least 5 times to fill it.


Part of the problem, as I’ve tried repeatedly to make clear, is that you’re using INFERIOR PRODUCTS.

Not a tutorial exactly, but post #120 and post #202 of the following thread shows Evercoat in action…

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=246913&page=8


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Okay, I'll give my Evercoat pitch one last shot. 

Here's how fast and easy it is to fill gaps and seams:

1) Get yourself some Evercoat Easysand, along with some sort of suitable mixing surface…











2) Dispense a small portion of putty and hardener as shown…











3) Mix the putty and hardener together with a stick (I’ve been known to swipe a handful of sticks from Starbucks). Be sure to mix evenly until achieving a uniform shade of “ducks egg blue”…











4) Having created a tape mask protecting the areas you don’t want to get “messy,” use your finger to apply mixed putty to the gap or seem you want to fill… 










If putty gets somewhere you don’t want it to get, simply wipe away with a paper towel or Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol. 

Working time is about 1 or 2 minutes for the sort of gap seen here. After that the putty starts to cure. Full cure will be reached in 10 to 20 minutes. If any trace of the gap or seem remains, repeat the process until total coverage is achieved.


5) File/ sand the puttied surface until even….











The above process took less than an hour, taping and sanding time included. Thanks to Evercoat, I was able to get from this…










…to this in a single afternoon..











If you guys know a better, faster, easier way to fill seams I'm all ears.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Ok, Carson, I think I will give that a shot. That doesn't seem near as bad as I thought in my head. Thank you for taking the time to go through and do a step by step process.


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## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

one more clarification Rob - 

for recontouring something like the secondary hull of the refit, are you saying that it would be better to perhaps build up layers with Evercoat? I guess my concern is that Evercoat's site advertises it as something that should only be used for seams and very small gaps, not for extending structures - whereas Aves says Aves is ideal for something like that, leading me to think that the varied material densities may not be a mountain to overcome in terms of sanding..... thoughts?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

The only thing I'd use Aves for is sculpting a replacement part, and I'm not even sure I'd use it for that.

In terms of re-contouring the refit, I would absolutely, positively use Evercoat. The only question is which version of Evercoat putty/ filler would be best for the job. 

Evercoat Easysand (shown above) is intended for smaller gap-filling tasks, but Evercoat makes many different kinds of putties and fillers to choose from. I'd need to do a little research to determine which type would be best for the job you mention.

Caswells is a great source for Evercoat products...

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/evercoat1.html

I've ordered frequently from them in the past, and they ship very promptly.


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## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

Thanks Rob - don't feel like you need to research for me - if something comes to mind I'd love to hear it. The links will be helpful. 

I will be doing a lot of resurfacing of the 1/350 refit:
• filling and rescribing all gridlines (except the saucer side-wall horizontal lines)
• expanding the widest part of engineering (girth-wise) and shrinking the back end a little
• possibly lowering the saucer top-side hill, possibly lowering underside hill
• new impulse engines
• new lower planetary sensor unit
• correcting hangar door area
• adding width to dorsal
• creating warp engines 75% from scratch - using only the grilles from the kit

So as you see, finding the best putty/filler is critical for me.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Carson Dyle said:


> Caswells is a great source for Evercoat products...
> 
> http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/evercoat1.html
> 
> I've ordered frequently from them in the past, and they ship very promptly.


...and he's cheaper than Amazon! SOLD AMERICAN!!!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Thanks for the recommendation, Rob! I'm going to try that.

I've never tried Aves since I've been using Magic Sculpt and similar two-part epoxy putties for sculpting but it is a long process for small jobs and difficult to get into tight places. I've used superglue and accelerator for seam filling but that can get too hard, too--especially if interrupted during the time the hardened glue is still soft enough to sand easily.

I'll try the Evercoat and see how it works.

*UPDATE: *Just ordered it, Rob. I'll blame you if it's no good


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I concur that Aves is not intended for general seam filling.
However, that big seam between the engine pylons on the 1/1000 TOS Enterprise was perfect for Aves because it didn't shrink out (like squadron). As I recall if you sand Aves within a day or so it isn't rock hard yet. The Evercoat looks like something I need to get!!!

I'm seriously thinking about throwing my squadron stuff in the garbage because of its shrinking...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Gunstar1 said:


> finding the best putty/filler is critical for me.


Well, it was for me too, and I looked a long time to find the right one.

Threads like this crop up from time to time, and I always do my best to steer people to Evercoat. A lot of the time it can be like trying to lead a horse to water, but for those willing to give Evercoat a shot I think they'll be amazed at how much easier it is to work with than the crap putties typically sold at hobby shops.

The main thing I like about Evercoat is its versatility. I mean, it's great for simple seam-filling requirements…










And it also works for bigger jobs, like re-contouring the Moebius FS’s lower prow. I wanted a sharper, more pronounced leading edge, and Easysand allowed me to achieve this in about an hour (sorry for the soft focus)…





































Helpful tip: Be sure to back your sandpaper with a foam block; it really makes sanding a lot easier, and it produces a smoother, more even surface. I also really like those emery-board-like sanding sticks for jobs like this. 

Start with a fairly course grit – I think I started with 120, then followed with 220, 340, and finally 400. Sometimes it helps to re-prime the working area as you work to gage your progress, but I generally try to do as much puttying work as possible prior to priming.


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## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

great - that was more the answer I was trying to find for the kind of job I'm doing. Thank you!


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## xr4sam (Dec 9, 1999)

Rob, it you like those foam emery boards, get thee to a Sally's Beauty Supply, and pick up a bunch of those foam sanding blocks. Dunno what the beauty types use them for, but they are great to wetsand with!


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## killerclone (Apr 25, 2010)

*Ringing endorsement*

Hello all,

Noob on deck here, but I would like to throw my 1/2 cent in. I was following Carson's FS1 build thread when he recommened the Evercoat Easy sand. I followed his advice and all I can say is this stuff is easy to use, more cost effective then the "green goo" and sands well. For someone like me, back in the hobby after many years, the stuff is fantastic. I wish I had back when...
Thanks Carson, you've got another fan!
!:thumbsup:

Paul


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Welcome aboard, Killerclone! Hope you enjoy the ride! :wave:
Rob: I ordered the Evercoat this evening (great price on the product, but the shipping was almost as much as the Evercoat! :freak I'll be trying it out on Moebius' Superboy in a few weeks...


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## halcyon_daze (Jan 6, 2004)

What's the working time like for Evercoat once it's been mixed with the hardener?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

It sort of depends on how much hardener you add, but in general...



Carson Dyle said:


> Working time is about 1 or 2 minutes for the sort of gap seen here. After that the putty starts to cure. Full cure will be reached in 10 to 20 minutes.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

...I don't know if I can get used to having a model puttied, sanded, and ready to go in one day...


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Well, my order of Easysand arrived today from Caswell Plating while I was at work, and when I opened the box...somehow I didn't think the tube would be THAT big :freak: . Something tells me I'd better step up my build output to use up that sucker...


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

deadmanincfan said:


> Well, my order of Easysand arrived today from Caswell Plating while I was at work, and when I opened the box...somehow I didn't think the tube would be THAT big :freak: .


Ha!  Same here!


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

I'm suprised 3M Acryl glazing putty hasn't been mentioned. Much better than Bondo or the Testors putty. I've nenevr used the Evercoat or Aves.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I just got mine,

Boy it is BIG!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I got a tube yesterday via Amazon. Yep, it's a big tube and it smells just like Bondo.


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## Daniel_B (Jun 28, 2016)

Carson Dyle said:


> Okay, I'll give my Evercoat pitch one last shot.
> 
> Here's how fast and easy it is to fill gaps and seams:
> 
> ...


Blast from the past! It's been 6 years since I posted this thread (yes, I am PixelMagic, I lost that username in the password debacle) I haven't needed to do a lot of seam filling in a long time. However, I am currently working on the Revell 1/500 Into Darkness Enterprise, so I thought I'd give this Evercoat business a spin. I just ordered some and I'll try it out this week. Your advice from 6 years ago is finally coming through. Ha!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I'm always searching for a better putty...here I come, Amazon.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Here's my question for the putty experts: Is there a putty that dries hard and smooth enough to scribe panel lines in it after it cures? 

I'd love to putty and then re-scribe narrower panel lines on kits like Voyager and the E-Refit, but most putties chip and flake even under light pressure from an x-acto blade.


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## Daniel_B (Jun 28, 2016)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Here's my question for the putty experts: Is there a putty that dries hard and smooth enough to scribe panel lines in it after it cures?
> 
> I'd love to putty and then re-scribe narrower panel lines on kits like Voyager and the E-Refit, but most putties chip and flake even under light pressure from an x-acto blade.


Though I haven't actually tried this, I'd probably attempt to pour epoxy resin or dental acrylic into the grids, and rescribe. Putty is supposed to be softer than plastic so it's easy to sand away. You need a harder material.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Daniel_B said:


> Though I haven't actually tried this, I'd probably attempt to pour epoxy resin or dental acrylic into the grids, and rescribe. Putty is supposed to be softer than plastic so it's easy to sand away. You need a harder material.


I agree it has to be harder, but the challenge is that the material needs to fill the original scribed line and stick to it with enough strength that it it won't chip out as the new smaller line is being rescribed. I wonder if those materials would be too brittle? Does Aves cure harder than other types of putty?


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## FlyAndFight (Mar 25, 2012)

I recently discovered this product and have had excellent results. 

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

FlyAndFight said:


> I recently discovered this product and have had excellent results.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK


I've used PPP too but the problem I have with it is the same as with artist's latex putty (e.g. Liquitex, Golden) - if you wet sand it pretty much pulls up all the putty. When I used PPP to fill in the grid lines on my 1/350 TOS E I found I had to wet the sandpaper and then tamp it dry on a cloth so it wasn't too wet. It worked, but it wasn't as ideal as Aves Epoxy Putty in terms of sanding (which I didn't find as useful for this job as it's not as spreadable).


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## Daniel_B (Jun 28, 2016)

RossW said:


> I've used PPP too but the problem I have with it is the same was with artist's latex putty (e.g. Liquitex, Golden) - if you wet sand it pretty much pulls up all the putty. When I used PPP to fill in the grid lines on my 1/350 TOS E I found I had to wet the sandpaper and then tamp it dry on a cloth so it wasn't too wet. It worked, but it wasn't as ideal as Aves Epoxy Putty in terms of sanding (which I didn't find as useful for this job as it's not as spreadable).


Yep, I had this problem too. For those kind of gaps, I use Tamiya putty. For really tiny scratches, I use Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya liquid primer.

My Evercoat should arrive today, so I hope it's as awesome as I hear it is.


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## FlyAndFight (Mar 25, 2012)

Good point, RossW. I noticed that issue as well while building my 1/72 Dragon Saturn V kit. (Which is a bear of a kit...)

Too much water and the putty dissolves away. So I too had to squeeze as much water out of the sanding stick that I used so that it worked correctly. I did end up with some smoothly filled seams, though.

Dry sanding worked very well.

I'll definitely give Evercoat a try, though. Thanks!


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