# moebius chariot and up grade build.



## subtoair

A well back I brought a 1/24 scale moebius chariot model kit on ebay.Being a fan of the lost in space TV series in the mid 60s brought back great memories of the vehicles used on the show.The hardware like the Jupiter 2 and the Chariot were my favorites. The Chariot was the best,it was real.No computer made models were used at that time,no sir,it was real! The Chariot was built on a Thiokol snow cat track drive unit.Built new back in the mid 60s the Thiokol was striped down and a new plexiglass and frame body was built. Then all of the out door shooting was done north of LA in the Trona Pinnacles. I read were the Chariot prop was put on a semi and hauled to the location for the shots,with people looking and wondering what the world was the vehicle the truck was hauling! Any way seeing the Chariot kicking up the dust in the desert at full speed was the coolest! and still is. This is the reason on buying this kit was to bring back those great memories. This build will be slow,because I wanted to take my time to make up grades to some of the problems related to the kit. I would like to up grade the track system the most,and try to convert it to Rc if possible. Untell later


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## subtoair

*moebius chariot up grade*

Here is a picture of the kit.I won,t get into showing all of the parts,as this has been done on other forms many times before. To my eye the model looks to be very nice,with quit a few parts. The builds on the internet thru the years,show some very beautifull builds. The model is also large.You can see this by laying a hobby knife along side the clear top housing.


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## subtoair

For some reason I can not get the pictures to up load,I will try later.


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## subtoair

Next I will post the problems that I had with the treads melting the plastic on some of the parts.This problem was found with the first production kits.See (Moebius chariot melting treads problems) on another form.that covers this problem better. Anyway here are a few pictures of the parts that were attacked by the tracks packed together with the floor, and front and rear plastic panels. My back panel #5 was the worse,so I decided to fill and sand the panel down.Then I had to detail the panel with plastic strips,to look like new parts. I was scared that sink marks would show up in time,so a rubber mold was made to cast a new rear panel.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Having problems again,can,t bring up new pictures,it wants to send the same picture.


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## zike

subtoair said:


> Next I will post the problems that I had with the treads melting the plastic on some of the parts.This problem was found with the first production kits.See (Moebius chariot melting treads problems) on another form.that covers this problem better. Anyway here are a few pictures of the parts that were attacked by the tracks packed together with the floor, and front and rear plastic panels. My back panel #5 was the worse,so I decided to fill and sand the panel down.Then I had to detail the panel with plastic strips,to look like new parts. I was scared that sink marks would show up in time,so a rubber mold was made to cast a new rear panel.



Oddly enough, I can post your pictures.

And my kit suffered the same problem.


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## subtoair

I don,t know on how you did it Zike, but thanks!! I had a hard time posting the pictures tonight,but I am glad some one got them on. I will try a few more and see what happens.


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## subtoair

A picture of the back panel #5,on which toke the most work.The deep groves were still soft,so they had to be cleaned out with a knife,before filler could be applied.


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## subtoair

A rubber mold was made to cast a complete new rear panel#5 It was cast in resin with ground fiberglass mixed in. This made a new part that is stronger than the original plastic part.


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## subtoair

The new part fitted on to the original moebius floor.


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## subtoair

This picture shows the inside of the two parts,the original on top the new recast on the bottom. The new part is so strong it can resist acetone. I am thinking about doing this to the track wheels also.


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## hal9001

Just out of curiosity, why the needed strength? I have the same kit and didn't know if it was a necessity. New part looks superb by the way! :thumbsup:

Carl-


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## hal9001

Just out of curiosity, why the needed strength? I have the same kit and didn't know if it was a necessity. New part looks superb by the way! :thumbsup:

Carl-


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## subtoair

The plastic used in the kit seems to be really strong.The extra strength is not needed at all,its just the way the part came out from the mold.I was just surprised the part could not be twisted at all.I might try and make the the bottom drive chassis with the same material so it will not flex with the RC electronics installed. All of this is Just a idea for now.if it works time will tell. Thank you, on the complements on the new parts that I made. I started to design new track treads,later this afternoon.That is going to be the biggest pain in the butt to make! And take the most time.I will post pictures as I make more progress in that area.


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## WOI

What's the matter with extra strong plastic?


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## Richard Baker

Nobody ever said something was the matter with extra strong plastic.

Hal9001 was just curious if there was a reason for needing the extra strength.
Turns out it was simply a side effect of the material being cast- a great looking replacement part and superior also!


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## subtoair

Well I had a little time in between projects,to start thinking about making new tracks for the Chariot. A lot of thinking and scratching my head,has brought up different ideas. Making the cleats,and belts would not be that much of a problem.But making them with lots of detail,with strong easy running treads is a must.Making resin cleats and then gluing them to rubber belts,was a quick thought.But being running on floors or outside would make the cleats come lose.I come up with a idea to make them out of liquid rubber. With a lot of searching on the web,I found a lot of different places,which had silicone flexible rubber etc. I did come on a company called Devcon.This company sell a liquid rubber,that they use on gravel belts etc.Very strong and flexible. You buy a i pound container. Then you can add a flex addictive to get the flex you want in the material.I have never done this before. So it is a new experence,if it works or not we will find out. I hear that lunar models build tracks for there 1/32 scale chariot years back,but I never seen any of there builds.Here are a few pictures of a little progress.The first picture is a picture of the original threads that I want to try and replace. So hang in the gang and we will see how this all turns out,good or bad!


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## subtoair

The first thing was to make a cleat with bolts molded in to the part.Then a rubber mold was made to make 74 of these little buggers.


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## subtoair

The paddle,I needed 12 for one side of the track.I should have stated,the 74 cleats and 12 paddles are for one track on which a mold will be made to make a new complete track.


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## subtoair

On the paddle,you will see a piece of music wire molded thru the unit.This is for the next mold to be made. On each finished paddle in the track a piece of music wire will be mold in the paddle.when the track will be pulled from the mold,the music wire will be cut flush with the ends of the paddle. This is to make it units strong. Like I said just a idea for now.


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## subtoair

74 cleats,for one side of the track.


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## hal9001

Richard Baker said:


> Nobody ever said something was the matter with extra strong plastic.
> 
> Hal9001 was just curious if there was a reason for needing the extra strength.
> Turns out it was simply a side effect of the material being cast- a great looking replacement part and superior also!


Like you said, I wasn't criticizing, just asking out of curiosity to know. I like all you've done so for and can't wait to see the tracks completed! :thumbsup:

Carl-


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## subtoair

Thats fine,I always like to ask questions to.that way I can find out different ways of doing things. Thank you for the nice words on the track parts,Like I said this is all new to me, so I don.t know if it will work or not.I did not know that some one else build after market treads,after seeing your post on the melting treads forms. This kit came out almost 8 years ago,so I am a little behind on the times. Were they resin or rubber treads,that they made? 

Dennis


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## Richard Baker

I really love your new tracks- looking forward to seeing them assembled!

My kit is still in the box- so many projects ahead of it but I enjoy seeing these wonderful buildups, living vicariously through others...


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## hal9001

Richard Baker said:


> I really love your new tracks- looking forward to seeing them assembled!
> 
> My kit is still in the box- so many projects ahead of it but I enjoy seeing these wonderful buildups, living vicariously through others...


*"living vicariously through others..."*

Yeah, no kidding, me too Richard! Only problem, by the time I get around to building something I will have forgot all I learned from some of the great builds seen here. :freak: Or even remember to go back and search old post on the subject....

Carl-


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## teslabe

I really like the treads you're doing, are you planning to offer them for sale?


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## subtoair

Glad you like the treads that I am making Teslade. I redone a new idea on the cleats. After making around 70 some cleats,I really did not like the idea of just molding them in resin.I was still worried about sagging of the cleats over time.So like I did on the paddles I made a new cleat that has a .25 music molded in it. After making a new mold,and pulling out the cleat with the music wire,I found out that I now had a very strong part.You could use these to run the RC chariot outside,if you wanted to.Being carefull of course of rocks,and giant cyclops. I also redid the rear sprocket,like Teslade did. The only difference is the new sprocket will be molded out of resin with fiberglass powder. I ordered the Devcon rubber,to see if this will work. I would like to be able to pour rubber into molds if possible.This would be fast.The other option is to mold each cleat and glue this to real rubber strips.I have done a test using a special glue for this purpose. Once the cleat was glued to the rubber,you could not pull these apart, with out breaking the cleat.I worked great! but toke a lot more work and time,but worked. As far a making new treads I would be willing to make a few extra for people,but I want to see on what process works the best. Here are a few pictures.


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## RSN

As nice as the rest of the kit is, I couldn't put the basic rubber treads on either. I didn't do molds, it made each piece by hand. Not as accurate as yours, but I was happy with the results. Can't wait to see yours finished!!


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> Glad you like the treads that I am making Teslade. I redone a new idea on the cleats. After making around 70 some cleats,I really did not like the idea of just molding them in resin.I was still worried about sagging of the cleats over time.So like I did on the paddles I made a new cleat that has a .25 music molded in it. After making a new mold,and pulling out the cleat with the music wire,I found out that I now had a very strong part.You could use these to run the RC chariot outside,if you wanted to.Being carefull of course of rocks,and giant cyclops. I also redid the rear sprocket,like Teslade did. The only difference is the new sprocket will be molded out of resin with fiberglass powder. I ordered the Devcon rubber,to see if this will work. I would like to be able to pour rubber into molds if possible.This would be fast.The other option is to mold each cleat and glue this to real rubber strips.I have done a test using a special glue for this purpose. Once the cleat was glued to the rubber,you could not pull these apart,
> with out breaking the cleat.I worked great! but toke a lot more work and time,but worked. As far a making new treads I would be willing to make a few extra for people,but I want to see on what process works the best. Here are a few pictures.


There is still no "d" in teslabe.....:freak: I made the drive hubs from brass to isolate the tracks from any of the kit's plastic and used foil tape on the wheel hubs, so far so good.... I also cut down most of the center rib, it's too high, to make it easier to slide on the tires.


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## subtoair

That was a good idea to cut down the center hub a little,Teslabe I put on a tire a few weeks back,and it went on pretty easy. But I put one on this afternoon, and it was a real pain to get it on! I wanted to make a jig today to try and put the cleats on the rubber belts. I used scrap cleats that were primed with gray primer. So this these pictures show the cleats glued on the rubber belts,real ruff looking with a lot of flash.The new ones will be clean looking.Any way I could not get the super glue cap off,as it was glue on, from using it a couple of days ago.So as luck would have it the cap broke off with the super glue tip. I had to use it that way,and that is way there is some much glue every were. I did get the spacing right after a few fits for the drive sprocket to run smooth. Got a little done. The first picture will show the stock treads,the next picture will show the new cleats,in very crude condition!


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## subtoair




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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> That was a good idea to cut down the center hub a little,Teslabe I put on a tire a few weeks back,and it went on pretty easy. But I put one on this afternoon, and it was a real pain to get it on! I wanted to make a jig today to try and put the cleats on the rubber belts. I used scrap cleats that were primed with gray primer. So this these pictures show the cleats glued on the rubber belts,real ruff looking with a lot of flash.The new ones will be clean looking.Any way I could not get the super glue cap off,as it was glue on, from using it a couple of days ago.So as luck would have it the cap broke off with the super glue tip. I had to use it that way,and that is way there is some much glue every were. I did get the spacing right after a few fits for the drive sprocket to run smooth. Got a little done. The first picture will show the stock treads,the next picture will show the new cleats,in very crude condition!


They look real nice so far, but I'd be very surprised if super glue "Cyanoacrylate" will hold up to the flexing and torque the treads will be under when in motion, then again, I could be wrong.....


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## subtoair

I was wondering to about using plain super glue to.I went on the internet and looked up different glues. The one that I have never seen before was on you tube. I watched a gentlemen using Loctite Plastics bonding system. He applied a activator to the two halves of rubber and let it dry. He than applied the super glue. After it dried for a few minutes he tried to put it apart,and could not.So I thought Right!!! that is a bunch of bull! Well I brought a packed,and did what he did to 1/32 thick rubber glued end to end. And to my surprise I could not pull the two glued ends apart. So this afternoon I tried it on the scrap cleats and 1/32 rubber strips. I could not pull them apart,with out breaking the cleats. This was just a trial,I really want to mold the assembled tracks,and pour the liquid rubber in to the mold. This is the best way,and the fastest,and this would keep the cost down. The other way by making separate cleats and gluing them to the rubber strips it would take a lot of time and work. The rubber is coming this week,so Im looking forward to seeing what that will do.


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> I was wondering to about using plain super glue to.I went on the internet and looked up different glues. The one that I have never seen before was on you tube. I watched a gentlemen using Loctite Plastics bonding system. He applied a activator to the two halves of rubber and let it dry. He than applied the super glue. After it dried for a few minutes he tried to put it apart,and could not.So I thought Right!!! that is a bunch of bull! Well I brought a packed,and did what he did to 1/32 thick rubber glued end to end. And to my surprise I could not pull the two glued ends apart. So this afternoon I tried it on the scrap cleats and 1/32 rubber strips. I could not pull them apart,with out breaking the cleats. This was just a trial,I really want to mold the assembled tracks,and pour the liquid rubber in to the mold. This is the best way,and the fastest,and this would keep the cost down. The other way by making separate cleats and gluing them to the rubber strips it would take a lot of time and work. The rubber is coming this week,so Im looking forward to seeing what that will do.


As I said, I could be wrong...... Loctite is a brand I have many years experience with and if anyone can make a better super glue, I'm not surprised it would be them. Can't wait to see your next post, nice work.....:thumbsup:


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## Richard Baker

One thing I hate about 'superglue' is no tensile strength- a bit of torque and it turned to powder. this Loctite product sounds fantastic!

I really love your Chariot build- I know mine wil never turn out as well but watching this thread is an inspiration


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## subtoair

You guys are right,about that super glue has no tensile strength. Yesterday I tried a tensile test on the small section of track that I built the first part of this week. ( The picture that I posted on this form) I had made a complete new mold this week to test pour the new rubber in it next week.. So I decided to try and tear apart the cleats from the rubber. I found out that a few of the cleats came apart on just the ends. (To be fair I may have not put enough glue on the areas,that came apart.) The rest of the cleats could not come apart from the rubber. I then soaked the cleats with the glued rubber strips in acetone,for around 4 minutes. (This will easy remove standard super glue.) I removed the parts from the acetone and found out I still could not remove the glued parts. Another 2 minutes more of soaking and it was the same,the glue did not let from the rubber and cleats. But the rubber was getting real soft and googy. I had to take a hobby knife to cut the parts apart.some cleats were still holding the rubber I guess what I am saying that Im sold on the strength of this glue. The new mold will have all the cleats all molded in the rubber with the belts,for a seam less part. I will post more on this later.
Dennis


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## subtoair

Its been awhile since my last post.I have been making new tracks for the Moebius chariot,the last month or so between other work.The molds were made a while back,which toke a long time to make. Then a rubber mold was made to make a one piece rubber track. I am still experimenting with the new rubber Devcon liquid. four tracks came out of the molds,out of the four two tracks came out good. The rubber takes almost a month to cure. I also had to learn on how to fill the mold with a brush just right to capture all the detail. A real learning and expensive experience! The rubber has to be used in two days other wise it does not cure right. I figure it cost me around $50.00 to make one track,but when they come out nice they really look nice. I will post pictures a little later when I have a set mounted on the road wheels. I will post a pictures of the bottom of the track mold to show the detail that went into the track.I also made all new larger track wheels more in scale with the real thing.They are not that much bigger,but enough to give the chariot more of a scale look.Well I will try to post a few pictures,hope you viewers enjoy them.


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## subtoair

This shows the difference in size from the stock Moebius wheel and the new resin cast wheel that I made.


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## teslabe

The progress looks great..... I look forward to you next update.


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## subtoair

Its a Sunday morning,and raining outside.I thought that I would be a good time to post a few more pictures of my Chariot build. I now have the lower drive unit with the new tracks working.So far they work good,with just a little bit more of tuning to get them to run perfect.It is Fathers day so my wife wants to take me out a little later for dinner,so if I don,t get all the pictures posted this morning I will finish posting them this evening.It has been a long process on how to figure out the power source. I chose to use the Polou dc geared motors,like I did in my 1/50 scale D11 Cat. New brass motor adapters were made on the lathe to adapte the 3mm motors shafts to the 1.5 mm worm gears. Set screws were drilled in to the adapters to hold them on the motor 3mm shafts.


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## subtoair

Again for the third time I designed a new rear 9 tooth drive sprocket,like used on the real snow cat.


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## subtoair

When I first started with this project I made a mold for the stock bottom chassis body because mine had the melted tread marks in it. I just got the Para Grafix Photoetch set. After reading the instructions I found out the front Para Grafix front grill will not fit the stock front grill area of the bottom chassis,with out redoing the front area with puddy. I decided to make a complete new bottom chassis to fit the new grill from Para Grafix. I made a new mold,and poured a new colored orange resin to make a new casting.This picture shows the stock chassis (left) to the new unit on the right.


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## subtoair

Two rear shaft supports were made for each side of the rear drive shaft.These were glued on by using epoxy cement.A brass 3/32 rod was run thru the supports as they dried,to insure everything was straight,


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## subtoair

Two nylon 24 tooth gears were pressed on to shaft adapters that were made on the lathe.


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## subtoair

A resin cast motor supports were made to hold the two Polou dc motors.These set in rubber mounts to make the motors more sound proof when running.To install I just slide the motor mount up to the gears and clamp down the unit.


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## subtoair

And now on to the most important thing that made this project worth while,(The Tracks!) Here you see the track with all of the steel music wire pins running thru the paddles.This was done so the tracks would not warp down,and add strength to the paddles. The ends of the music wire are sniped off before installing.The tracks need to be weathered to look more real. Also one picture shows the motors mounted in the body. Brass tubes were also installed to run the bogie wheels shafts thru. The 3 center wheel sets float to go over uneven ground. More later.


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## subtoair

The chariot body on the chassis,to give you a idea on how it looks.


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## Paulbo

This is an awesome piece of work you're doing!


subtoair said:


> ...I just got the Para Grafix Photoetch set. After reading the instructions I found out the front Para Grafix front grill will not fit the stock front grill area of the bottom chassis,with out redoing the front area with puddy...


Semi-correct - I provide a grill (#17) that will work with the unmodified hull, but to go more accurate I also include #25 that is a better size and works with the modded hull.


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## subtoair

Thank you Paulbo on the nice words on my chariot build.That is great that you supply both grills for the moebius chairot. I have never used photoetch parts before,and I must say your Paragrafix chariot set is state of the art! great detail
and really adds to a model.Keep up with the great products. Thanks! Dennis


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## Nektu

Looks amazing, Dennis... ! really great. K


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## subtoair

Thanks! Nektu glad you like it. I am trying to get the RC part done this summer,so I can work on the rest this winter. I got a few more pictures to share.One photo shows the rear end with the motors now installed,with the wiring.Also the oil cups have been installed that covers the worm gear end shafts.The hitch is also installed. I also sat the clear body on loose to see what it looked like. I ordered some weathering supplies to work on the treads,and running assembly,which will look a lot better than it is now.


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## rondenning

These treads look absolutely amazing!:thumbsup:
I would love a set of these for my build! Any chance you will be making some of these for sale??(pretty please?)
Very, very nice!!
Ron


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## Xenodyssey

Very, very cool and well engineered.


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## subtoair

It has been a lot of experimenting with this project.The motors and gears alone has been a real pain to get the right rpm with the track speed.I started with a 250 rpm pololu motors,then 650 rpm then 2,500 rpm.Now I am at 3000 rpm using a worm gear drive with 24 tooth. This has been working good,with about the right speed. I would like to go a little faster,but the next rpm in the pololu molors is 6000.This would be too fast then,and would be harder on the tracks. I really like The Pololu motors as they run very quiet,and smooth! I plan on laying up some more tracks in the near future,trying to improve them as I go along.They will be some that will have a few blems ( small pin holes etc) that can not be used for Rc but are good enough for display. These might will be available,if anyone would be interested. Once again thanks for the great support on this project! I will post more pictures as I progress with this build.


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## Nektu

I would definitely be interested in a set, Dennis...!
Thanks, Ken


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## teslabe

Very nice work on your tracks and excellent engineering with the drive system....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: Dennis, how flexible are the tracks?


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## subtoair

Hi Guys, the tracks are pretty flexible,something like a ear lobe. I have a lot to learn on using the Devon 80 rubber. The first track that I poured, I made a mistake on the mix ratio,but this turned out the best track.(Go figure?) The second track, I used the company mix ratio, and it toke a longer time to cure. This was done when the weather was cold out,and I had to heat up the shop. The track that was not completely cured I put in the sun the last couple days to try to cure it.This worked great, and now the track is almost cured,very strong and flexible. I would like to make some more tracks when it is warm outside. Once I open the Devcon can I only have a few days to use,other wise the rubber goes bad. I also made a new tire with this stuff,and it worked good.So when I make new tracks I will try to make 10 new tires also,to use the open can up.


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## rondenning

I too would be interested in a set!
Ron


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## RMC

is there a video of it being tested ?


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## subtoair

That would be a good idea RCM on the video.I would like to make a video of it in the near future. Maybe on you tube if I can figure it out on how to put it on there. For now I will keep posting more pictures,as I make more progress. I just received my weathering paints,so I will post a few pictures of that soon.


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## subtoair

Hi everyone, I got a little more done on the chariot, last week. I got the tracks weathered, using model air paint, at least they look a little more real then the shinny look they had. I tried the motors with the tracks running. I applied power buy using jumper wires to see how it would run To my surprise it toke off fast, climbing over objects laying on my table. So far the power unit with the tracks worked very smooth strong, so I was very happy with that. More later.


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> Hi everyone, I got a little more done on the chariot, last week. I got the tracks weathered, using model air paint, at least they look a little more real then the shinny look they had. I tried the motors with the tracks running. I applied power buy using jumper wires to see how it would run To my surprise it toke off fast, climbing over objects laying on my table. So far the power unit with the tracks worked very smooth strong, so I was very happy with that. More later.


The tracks look spot-on, you really did a fantastic job on them, looking forward to the video of your Chariot on action.....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## subtoair

Thank you! for the kind words on the tracks Teslabe. Hope you can time to get back to work on your chariot project in the near future.I hope mine just turns out half as good as yours.Your workmanship in electronics and machining is fantastic!There are lots of super nice builds of the chariot in the last few years,I really admire there workmanship also! I want to try and put the model on you tube in the near future. Right now I am stuck on speed controllers for the drive unit.Maybe you, or someone out there can give me ideas on speed controllers.I have a small sabertooth speed controller in my 1/50 scale cat.I really like on how it works.It is one stick control, forward, reverse,turn right or left,with one stick. The only thing is the size is 46mm long 40mm wide and 15mm thick. I could possible fit in in the front of the chariot,by going thru the floor and use the scanner housing to cover it. I would like to fine a controller with the same type of control as the sabertooth but in a lot smaller size! I have have tried a small speed controller by BDUS-10a. Size was perfect 30mm long 17mmwide and 6mm thick.The only thing is it only had a forward speed,no reverse. So any ideas out there would really be appreciated! Thanks Dennis.


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## subtoair

I think I figured out on the speed controls,That should work good.What I am doing will save more room for other electronics. Hopefully I can get things running by RC to try and put it on you tube in the near future.


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> Thank you! for the kind words on the tracks Teslabe. Hope you can time to get back to work on your chariot project in the near future.I hope mine just turns out half as good as yours.Your workmanship in electronics and machining is fantastic!There are lots of super nice builds of the chariot in the last few years,I really admire there workmanship also! I want to try and put the model on you tube in the near future. Right now I am stuck on speed controllers for the drive unit.Maybe you, or someone out there can give me ideas on speed controllers.I have a small sabertooth speed controller in my 1/50 scale cat.I really like on how it works.It is one stick control, forward, reverse,turn right or left,with one stick. The only thing is the size is 46mm long 40mm wide and 15mm thick. I could possible fit in in the front of the chariot,by going thru the floor and use the scanner housing to cover it. I would like to fine a controller with the same type of control as the sabertooth but in a lot smaller size! I have have tried a small speed controller by BDUS-10a. Size was perfect 30mm long 17mmwide and 6mm thick.The only thing is it only had a forward speed,no reverse. So any ideas out there would really be appreciated! Thanks Dennis.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pairs-RX5...-CONTROLLER-WITH-NINE-FUNCTIONS-/371082863265

Hi Dennis, as you know the biggest issue with the kit is the lack of space to
conceal the electronics. I too have a few Sabertooth "Caterpillar" drivers, but even with removing the terminal blocks and putting in a smaller capacitor, it would be a tight fit and would still need a receiver and four effect switches to handle the job, it could be done. I used a pair of RX5B/TX5B encoder/decoder ICs and did my own boards. They are simple boards but do what I need, I don't mind using two buttons for each motor, I still have four channels left. I did cut a hole in the floor under the engine cover to hind the receiver. In the second picture, in the lower left side is a 2.4GHz "Blade" 6ch receiver, Sabertooth 2X5 caterpillar driver, above, in the pink bags are Pololu R/C switches. So as you can see it's a lot to try and fit in the limited room we have so I did my own, the two boards to the right are my receiver and transmitter. As I pointed out, my boards are simple, they use 433MHz for their frequency, a RX5B decoder chip, a L298P dual motor driver and four solid state relays for controlling the robot's voice, fog lights and spot lights, on the receiver. The transmitter has a TX5B encoder chip, the four buttons on the outside control the drive motors, in the middle top is a slide switch for the fog lights, center switch for the robot's voice and the bottom is for spot lights and an extra feature.


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## subtoair

Hi Teslabe, Thank you for the help with the pictures and information with the Chariot drive system. I really admire your building skill with making small electronic boards for your Chariot. As you stated it is such a small area to work with. You have everything that is needed, for sound, and drive packed into such a small area. I myself don,t have much skill in electronics. If I can get to wires soldered together,I am doing good. I was wondering on how do you control the voice of the B9,by the RC receiver? I got my Chariot to run,by placing two micro speed controllers side by side.They have a smooth forward variable speed. The only draw back is they have no reverse. I plan on replacing them with ones with a reverse in the future. My son toke a film of it running outside yesterday. He will try and post it on you tube,for people to see. I made a new front end piece,because it was to short for the front of the windshield to connect with. I will try and post a few pictures later. Thanks again, Teslabe for the help. 

Dennis


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## subtoair

I test fitted the front end cap with the windshield. The front top of the end cap was not tall enough to reach up to the bottom windshield. A new taller end cap was molded to solve this problem. I just about have all of the parts that were damaged by the treads replaced by new ones.


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## j2man

I too would be interested in a set of those treads. Awesome work.


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> I was wondering on how do you control the voice of the B9,by the RC receiver?
> 
> Dennis


Hi Dennis, the robots voice is played by an mp3 player with a small power amp and the speaker is facing down and out the bottom of the chariot. The sound files are on an sd card that I can remove from the side, just above the track. There is a button on the transmitter that starts him talking. The circuits for his lighting are in the robots torso and base. Here's are some early pictures to show it a little better, hope it helps.....:wave:

https://youtu.be/tJ0JAYq-3Dk


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## subtoair

I am really amazed on how you fit all those circuits in such a small space!!!Teslade I wish that I had the know how on building all those small circuits. A job well done!! It looks like you fitted most of the fiberoptics and circuits for the b9 in the torso and base? My god that is a small space to work in.The timing of the voice with the lights of the b9 look so cool! I will study your pictures for ideas. Thank you for the help! I really appreciate it. I will also go over your Chariot build again.to see on what I had missed. Thanks again!
Dennis


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## xsavoie

Talking about The Chariot. According to CultTVMan it will be reissued by Moebius. As well as the big Seaview TV and big Flying Sub with improvements. The Flying Sub will include resin figures.


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## Fernando Mureb

*Ot*

Yes, I saw that.  But too little information. I found nothing either on their site and FB page.


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## subtoair

It would be great if Moebius would reissue the 1/24 scale Chariot. It really is a very detailed kit,and a lot of fun to build.Has anyone heard when the 1/35 scale Chariot would be available? Also any pictures yet? 
Dennis


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## Fernando Mureb

From time to time speculations emerge here and there. But nothing more than that, as far as I know.


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## subtoair

This Chariot project has been on a (slow mode) for a while. Between cutting the grass,and other projects I have not got much done the last few months. I have got a little more done the last week. On the RC part I worked on the robot. I wanted to light the robot,and also make the robot move from side to side by RC. I machined a brass turning bearing for the control of the upper torso to move. A very small servo was ordered from china, to fit in the robots base. The robot body was was filled out on the bottom for the wiring to fit thru later. The wiring was run thru the inside of the body up to the front scanner housing. Everthing was hide under the interior benches. The benches are held down by magnets for easy access for the wiring.


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## subtoair

All of the Chariot parts are held on the main body by magnets.This way I can remove them to detail and paint later. The body front can also be removed for installing the lights at a later date.


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## subtoair

The lights were also made to light. Being the top search lights the smallest,I wanted to figure these out for wiring first. The others would be easier being bigger. A rubber mold was made from the stock lights. Then small leds were wired with #44 lite wiring. and placed inside the molds. resin was poured in the molds to form the parts. Once dry they were removed and painted,and test lite.


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## subtoair

Had a little time in between other work today, to work on the front headlights. My wife found a 1931 car kit on a garage sale a while back. She know,s that I some time use parts from other kits for my projects. I found that the front headlight chrome housings worked good for the Chariot reflectors to help aim the headlight beams straight ahead. Some sanding and grinding was needed to make a good fit. With a little time test fitting they seamed to work good.A small 3mm led was then fitted into the drilled hole in back of the chrome housing. All I needed was a snug fit of the led,s so they could be removed for servicing later.


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## teslabe

Amazing work......:thumbsup: The servo for the robot is a nice touch, can't wait for a video of your tracks in motion.....


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## subtoair

Thanks for the nice words Teslabe! My son toke a video on it running around a month ago on the drive way,but has not put it on you tube yet. Looking forward of seeing it on you tube myself. The robot toke some work to figure out on how to make it move.but I got that part done,now the lights. I really like your build on the robot voice with the lights. Really a great building job!

Dennis


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## kimba32003

Brilliant work and love your photographic diary as it progressed !
Looking forward to more !

I have this kit too, sitting there for 12 months or more now, You've inspired me to break open the box and get modelling !

Wayne
Australia


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## Fernando Mureb

Dennis

Great idea those headlight chrome housings!!!

What did you use to make the lenses of the search lights looks silver when not lit?


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## subtoair

Its early in the morning here,and I wanted to make a few posts,before I go to work.Kimba32003 glad you are enjoying my build here. If you have one of these stored away,I would say get it off the shelf and blow off the dust and start on it in your spare time. I hate to say this but winter is not to far away, ( Sorry I am not a cold weather person) But a great time for model building. One nice thing here at Hobby Talk,everyone that builds the same kit will go out of there way to give you great ideas and help! A fine bunch of people! Fernando Mureb To my surprise,the headlight chrome housings did work better than I thought.The molded top searchlights were cast in alumite Resin which has a tan color. Light will shine thru the resin. I painted the lens pearl silver,from a can that I had on hand from 10 years ago.(A picture in closed) It is a silver pearl,and does seem to work go for headlights etc. It was just a trial thing and it seem to work alright. I don,t know if this can of pearl is still available? Maybe on ebay? A few pictures inclosed. Dennis


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## subtoair

Got the wrong picture posted,ho well, here is a picture of the new designed top dish that I made from using the Paragrafix instructions.They supply both dish beams for the stock Moebius dish,and also the optional one that I am making here. It is not as deep as the stock unit,and more in scale with the real one.


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Now back to the Pearl paint!


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## subtoair

Got the front censor dish done the last few days. It was kind of a pain to make make,but i got it done.Here is the masters that I made.I will make a small rubber mold so I can make a extra one to have on hand. I used the Paragrafix Photo etched dish beams #22 to add to the new formed dish. They really add a lot to the model! The rubber bellows was turned on a lathe,along with the taller base. Here are a few pictures.


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## subtoair

A comparison with the stock moebius dish. To be fair with the Paragrifix dish beams used the stock moebius unit really looks good also when done! I just wanted the more accurate flat design dish.


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Some of the parts used.


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## Paulbo

Wow! Great job on the dish.


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## Fernando Mureb

Yes, indeed. How did make the base?


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## subtoair

Thank you guys for the nice compliments on the dish. The base was made from a piece of brass rod,turned on a lathe,as with the rubber boot. I made it by looking at a picture of the dish turned side ways on the Chariot,in a storm (The hungry sea ) image. To me the base looked a little taller. and thinner, with a small circle base on the bottom, but I am not sure. A rubber mold will be made to make resin parts.I want a extra disk because I have a extra Chariot kit in the closet, in case I ever decide to build another one. Dennis


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## subtoair

A quick up date on the front dish mold,and parts.


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## subtoair

The completed parts,ready to be painted!


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## subtoair

The rear Solar Scanner unit ready to be molded.All the brass and plastic parts were turned on a lathe.I will use the original solar face plate.


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## Fernando Mureb

Amazing!!!


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## Fernando Mureb

Do you have a lathe at home?! My dream is to buy a 3D printer to make my own "aftermarket" parts.


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## subtoair

I have a small Micro-Mark lathe and milling machine at home in my garage. I brought it new around 8 years ago,when my wife was taking up CNC for a factory. I just started using it around 4 years ago.It really comes in handy to make these small parts for the Chariot.The new 3d printers would really be nice to have! You can make anything on them. It would be a great addition to a persons hobby. 

Dennis


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## WEAPON X

Awesome Build!


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## subtoair

Thanks WEAPON X I hope to get it done later this winter. It been slow, but sure. I Am excited to get it on you tube.


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## Paulbo

Fantastic!


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> I Am excited to get it on you tube.


Is it up on youtube yet????


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## subtoair

Hi guys! I have a Panasonic Leica Dicomar picture and movie camera.Its around 7 years old.It still takes pretty good pictures.It still can make movies,but they are on a small cassette. I tried to transfer them on the computer, but it does not work. My son toke a video on his phone a while back,and it looked good. He been working on getting it on you tube when ever he has time.He has a lot of irons in the fire so it has been slow. I have decided to buy a new phone with the movie option,for myself. My wife can then put it on you tube,for every one to see the test run. Hope to have something to show in the next few weeks.
Dennis


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## subtoair

Here are a few pictures of the solar scanner base,mounted on the luggage rack assembly. To my eye the scanner base looked a little to tall and also not quite long enough. I made a mark 1/16 of a inch down from the top of the scanner top,to shorten it down a little.


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## subtoair

a saw was used to cut the top down. Then sanded smooth.


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a picture of the shorten base.


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A strip of .040 plastic was added to the front of the scanner base for the needed length.


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A top .080 plastic plug was glued in the square hole.


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## subtoair

Tamiya puddy was used to fill in the seams.when dry,the puddy was sanded smooth then primed by using the airbrush.


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Holes were made for the mounting rods for the scanner base. Brass rods were then installed,along with a separate square top scanner base.


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## subtoair

The new completed solar scanner base with luggage rack.


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## subtoair

Today finished up on some loose ends. One was sanding the luggage level. Got the front dish and rear solar scanner painted the last few days. I was waiting for the chrome clamps to tighten the rubber boots on (really just chrome tape is what I used) Anyway here are a few pictures,hope you enjoy them.


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The paints that I used were Dupli_Color millenium silver, and there flat black paint. Tamiya TS 42 light gun metal paint.were used on the scanner housings.


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A couple of pictures installing the Pavagrafix front grill into the front of the lower body.


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## subtoair

There are different types of glues to use to apply the Paragrafix parts.One is super glue or epoxy glue,I chose the epoxy because I can adjust the detailed part on the model.I used Ace Hardware 5 minute glue.(It is the best 5 minute glue that I have found to use. It is very strong! I added a little color pigment to it so I can see were I applied it. A small bead was applied around the grill opening. Then the part was carefully attached.


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## subtoair

The Pavagrafix front grill installed,really adds a lot of detail to the model,with the rivets etc.A very nice piece! When painted it will blend in with the body.


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## subtoair

After I mounted the new gill I decided to counter sink it in, so it was even with the front of the body. Some filling and a few hours later, I got the fit that I was looking for. After painting it blended in more.


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## subtoair

My son Scott just sent me a you tube video of my RC Moebius Chariot running, on my email last night. It sounds like he might post it on hobby talk tonight,unless something else comes up. He will then post the link to view it. It is a very short video, and just shows the bottom chassis with the RC equipment installed, because it was cold and windy outside that day we did not film it very long. Dennis


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## deboermodels

Here is a very short video of a test run of the Moebius Chariot in June of 2015. It was taken on a windy day on a rough gravel driveway outside my house. A little smoother surface would really help on the turning of the model a lot. But since I built it for RC control I wanted to see on how it would handle on rough surfaces,with the new design tracks. It has two speed controllers with just forward motion. They will be changed out with different speed controllers with both forward and also reverse for better turning in the future. More videos will be made as the build makes more progress.Thanks for looking.

Dennis

https://www.youtube.com/embed/WY3JBAiAbjg?rel=0



subtoair said:


> My son Scott just sent me a you tube video of my RC Moebius Chariot running, on my email last night. It sounds like he might post it on hobby talk tonight,unless something else comes up. He will then post the link to view it. It is a very short video, and just shows the bottom chassis with the RC equipment installed, because it was cold and windy outside that day we did not film it very long. Dennis


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## teslabe

deboermodels said:


> Here is a very short video of a test run of the Moebius Chariot in June of 2015. It was taken on a windy day on a rough gravel driveway outside my house. A little smoother surface would really help on the turning of the model a lot. But since I built it for RC control I wanted to see on how it would handle on rough surfaces,with the new design tracks. It has two speed controllers with just forward motion. They will be changed out with different speed controllers with both forward and also reverse for better turning in the future. More videos will be made as the build makes more progress.Thanks for looking.
> 
> Dennis
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/embed/WY3JBAiAbjg?rel=0


Dennis,
It looks and moves very very well, the tracks look amazing, you did a fantastic job......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## subtoair

Thanks, Teslabe I wish my turned as nice and quick as yours. The video was taken in a hurry,as I forgot to tighten the two front wheel adjusters to tighten the tracks,that is why they look loose. Dennis


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## subtoair

Its Sunday,and decided to get a few things done on the chariot, I wanted to install the front screen on the upper part of the front hood. I worked with the Pavagrfix upper grill. These parts are very strong when glued in place. I used two razor blades to bend the part. It did work okay, But I would say to buy a Photo etched bender.it is not worth cut fingers with the two razor blades. I carefully bent the screen to the shape of the front body.


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## subtoair

The screen was tacked in place from the back with super glue. I put just a very small pin head of glue on the side of the brass tips. Being carefull not to plug up the small holes of the screen. Later I applied epoxy glue to the strips,again being very carefull not to plug up the holes.


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## subtoair

The screen fit really nice in the front body.After looking at picture of the real Chariot,I noticed that the screen should be a little more flush with the body. So a another screen had to be made.


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## subtoair

I had some photo etched screen on hand. I just wanted to make a small square piece of screen to fit over the installed screen. Before This was done I wanted to paint the front housing first.


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## subtoair

The Tamiya TS 42 light gun metal paint looks like a perfect match,for the Chariot. My own personal taste I wanted a little lighter color. I decided to mix Dupl-Color flat black with universal silver paint. With Dulp-Color the paint can be buffed to remove the over spray,and give it a more real medal look. After my mix of light gun metal gray was applied,I used Dupli-Color bright silver to paint the ribs on the front.These were then buffed to look like a silver chrome look.


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The painted front with the cover screen ready to be installed


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The completed unit painted with the new cover screen installed.


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A couple of picture with better lighting,to show the true colors of the model.


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## Nektu

looks great, Dennis! When are you going to let us know if you're going to make the tracks and other parts available at all? Is that in the cards? Best, Ken


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## subtoair

Thanks! for the nice complements Ken. I Have not taken any time this summer to make any more tracks yet.I will try and make a few this winter and if I have any extras I will make them available. Right now I could make replacement parts as wheels, front dish,Solar scanner,and other parts, if anyone would be interested. Just PM me. I saw a picture of the new box art of the Chariot by Moebius. I sounds like they might be making more kits.I saw this on monster in motion web site. Fun kit to build!


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## subtoair

Yes, you can call me or email me with questions,if the PM don,t work. Phone (605) 660-9083 Email [email protected] Thanks guys.


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## Fernando Mureb

Dennis

The youtube video is fantastic! If you ever decide to make new tracks, you can certainly count me in to buy a pair.

On my ongoing project the Chariot doesn't move, but since Moebius seems to be about to release another version, I could try to build another kit.

This time, moving. With your tracks. :wave:


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## subtoair

Glad you enjoyed the short video of the Chariot Fernando Mureb. It,s not the best,but hope to do better videos in the near future. I will keep you,and other builders posted when I start building the tracks this winter. I was surprised to that Moebius is reissue the Chariot. Sounds good!


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## subtoair

Well its a Saturday night.and just got back from having a supper. I thought that a would post a few pictures of me working on the control dash,on the Chariot. I wanted to up grade by using the Pavagrafix photo etched parts,for the dash. I removed the body front,by pulling it from the magnets that held it in place.


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## subtoair

I then removed the dash by pulling it from the magnets mounted on the body. This helps to service the dash easy for servicing.


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## subtoair

All of the detail on the top of the plastic dash had to be sanded down. First I tried to sand it down with 180 sand paper,way to slow! One thing I like about the Moebius kits is they have nice heavy plastics parts,which makes it easy to work with.I then turned to .80 grit sandpaper. I used a sand block for this,to make sure that I would sand it down evenly. When sanding, check often so that you sand down the dash even.


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## subtoair

All of the detail sanded off the dash.


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## subtoair

Lighting holes were cut out were the Pavagrafix detailed dash strips fit over. I added 1/16 thick clear plastic strips that would lay under the dash strips to give them more height,for more detail. Pavagrafix said to do this in there instructions to give the dash more detail,very good idea!


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The dash photo etched parts, were painted with Tamiya TS-42 light gun metal.


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## subtoair

The Pavagrafix dash brass strips were glued to the clear plastic strips by using canopy glue 560. It dries clear,and holds strong, great stuff!


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## subtoair

I wanted the dash the look of real polished steel,like on the real Chariot.The only way to do this was to use a sheet of K&S tin stock. Stock#254 .008x4x8.From this I cut out a strip to fit over the stock plastic dash. It was fitted over the dash and holes were cut out for the dash lights. Then it was buffed to a high shine,by using Mothers wax.


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## subtoair

The polished tin cover was glued on to the plastic dash by using epoxy glue.


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## subtoair

The dash was test fitted on the Chariot for a good fit. The Pavagrafix dash strips have yet to be glued on. But first the dash decals will be applied to the photo etched parts. This should show off the dash more. When I get the lights installed I will post more pictures. Hope you guys enjoyed these. Dennis


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## subtoair

It was a slow Sunday today,so I decided to work in the shop for awhile. I wanted to apply the decals by JT Graphics that was included with the Pavagrafix Chariot photo etched parts. JT Graphics are top of the line decals that you can buy. They have bright colors,and are very easy to use.Here are the steps that I used to apply them. First step was to remove any dust from the part that you want to put the decal down on.I use a tack cloth for this part.


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I cut out the decal as close to it as i could,but not to close as to remove any of the decal detail.


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I brushed on Micro-Sol on the part first,with a brush.


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## subtoair

I then dipped the decal in warm water, Not Hot! just warm. Wait a few minutes untell you can start to slide the decal. Just slide the decal about a quarter of the ways off the sheet.not all the way. Place the quarter of the slide off part on the part that you want the decal placed on. Position it carefully on the part and center it to were you want it. Then brush on some more Micro-Sol to the top of the decal. Let set untell it is dry. I usually wait over night.


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## subtoair

The decal with the Micro-Sol brushed on the top. Let dry.Tomorrow we will see on how it turned out.


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## subtoair

Got back to the shop today to check on the Chariot dash with the decals that were applied yesterday.The micro sol did a nice job of laying the decals down on the photo etched parts. I was kind of worried because the Micro Sol liquid was around 5 years old,but it seemed to work good.


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## subtoair

The detailed dash stripes were glued down with the canopy 560 glue.


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A string of small led,s were wired to fit behind the dash.


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Testing the leds.


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## subtoair

Again a test run on how the led,s looked on the dash installed in the chariot. Seems to have plenty of light. The JT decals really adds to the model along with the Pavagrafix photo etched parts.


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## subtoair

I made a mistake saying the dash was made from tin stock,but really was made from alum sheeting K&S stock no 255. .016x4x10.


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## subtoair

Well I am back! After a couple of weeks of completing other projects,I could get more done on the up grade of the chariot. I decided to work on the center housing between the two seats,were the scanner fits on. I wanted to add the aluminum To the sides of the housing and also the top,to match the dash. I sanded down the plastic center housing to allow for the extra thickness of the sheeting. The sheeting was carefully bent to follow the curves of the housing.


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## subtoair

I got the wrong picture posted,this is the scanner box that I sanded.


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## subtoair

The first picture is a new scanner bracket being made.


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The new bracket being made,with mounting bolts,and other details added.In the next picture after this one you will see the completed parts.


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## subtoair

It sounds like the reissued Moebius chariot is now available. I have been looking looking for new reviews on the kit,but so far I have not found any. Maybe soon. Back to the chariot build. I wanted to make the rear control panel back behind the scanner unit. I decided to make this from stock alum sheeting. I cut out the size that I wanted.and then polished it up. I copied the design from the new full scale chariot build that has been posted on you tube. I drilled the holes were the lights and toggle switches were locked. For the toggle switches,I used the led leads that had a flat part near the top of the head. I cut these off and when installed they looked like the flat toggle switch handles.


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Small 1.8mm leds were installed under the cover to light the colored lens.


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## subtoair

next in line was to upgrade, the front of scanner face. I wanted to build a front scanner piece that had a little more of a 3D look,or more depth and detal. I toke a piece of brass tube and cleaned it up in a drill press. Next in line was putting the brass tube in the lath,and make a very thin brass ring.


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## subtoair

A bottom face plate was cut out of a piece of plastic sheet. This was to be glued to the bottom of the brass tube. Areas were marked out were the new lighting tubes were to go.


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## subtoair

When the two lighting holes were filed out more even, alum tubing was fitted in to the holes of the plastic sheet. This took some time as the holes had to be carefully filed out because of the thin plastic was easy to tear.


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## subtoair

The face plate was primed, every thing looked rough and needed to be sanded even.


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## subtoair

This pictures was suppose to come before the last one. Anyway this shows the alum tubes installed into the lighting holes.


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## subtoair

This next step was to make the control nobs. They were to be very very small,and would make anyone pull there hair out,or make a them turn to drinking! And to fine out there were three different types of control nobs used! So this is as far as I have got,and as soon as they get me out of the straight jacket, (Ha) will post more pictures soon of the completed unit.


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## subtoair

Here is the finished part,primed in white primer. Some sanding is needed before molding.


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## subtoair

Just a couple of pictures after the scanner face was cleaned up today before molding. small bolts were added around the scanner lens barrel? If that is what they call it? Also bottom knobs were lined up better. Tamiya white primer was sprayed on the plug to show any blemishes etc.The next picture shows the plug laying in the molding box.


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## starseeker

THE most gorgeous Chariot build I've ever seen. I started mine and got to about the same point, tho' not nearly as finished:
http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/jkirkphotos/library/21 Scale Chariot?sort=6&page=1
but it all ground to a halt when I came to the canopy. I cannot stand the holes in the clear plastic for the various door and other attach points. And the canopy is a little out of proportion, which throws off the placement and sizes of the doors a little, but that doesn't bother me nearly as much as those awful holes. I've tried everything I can think of to fix them, and I hate everything that I've tried.
So I put it aside for a good three years now. But Fernando Mureb's beautiful progress earlier this year re-kindled hope that something could be done to save it and over the summer I've been polishing wooden masters for a replacement canopy for both the 1/20.5 Moebius Chariot and for a sister 1/24 scale Chariot. So far glass smooth plugs and tired fingers is all I's got. And some very thin plexi that I hope to vac form over them some time this winter. And if I can actually pull something half-decent... I can start almost all over again. Photo below is of them sitting on my workbench as I type. 
Really looking forward to seeing what you're planning to do with the canopy. You're taking such incredible care and craft in your build, I hope you don't hit the same brick wall. I suspect there's a lot of bodies scattered around its base.
Outstanding work! As someone once said, "Inspiring. Truly inspiring". Only this time, unlike our hero, I really mean it.


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## subtoair

Wow!!! OMG The work you did on your Chariot is really inspiring! The detail you put into the model is unbelievable. I was thinking of doing some thing like you did with the controls,but not as deep of detail.You really went the extra mile with all the scratch building you did. It looks like you scratched built the tracks also. Do you have a build site were I can follow this gorgeous build? You also have the correct framing for the seats and other parts. You said there was two different scales of Chariots,one 1/20.5 and 1/24 scale models. Did moebius or some other company make different scales? I have not got to the canopy yet,and now I wondering what problems are coming up. I know that I had to extend the front of the body up a little to meet the bottom of the windshield, because of the gap between the two. Fernando Murebs build is very clean and detailed,I also like his canopy after he painted it,and installed his lights. First class all the way! Thank you for the nice complements on my build Starseeker! But I have to take my hat off to you on you outstanding build,my friend! Please post more pictures when you get time.I want to see more.


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## subtoair

Got back to the finished scanner face today. I pulled the new resin piece from the mold this morning. I sanded down the Moebius scanner face,back around 3/32 to allow for the thickness of the new molded piece. I placed the new piece on the scanner housing with double sided tape to just to see how it looked.


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## subtoair

Had some help today with a Tamiya figure to test fit the unit in place. The new face will be removed later to add lights etc.


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## Fernando Mureb

Congratulations for this meticulous and precise work!! Its features are inspiring. Thank you for sharing your project with this amount of detail. It's been a great learning experience for me. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## subtoair

Thank you for the nice complements on the chariot,Fernando Mureb. Everything That I am doing here are ideas that you and Teslabe and other great builders have already done. You guys and other builders are the pioneer,s of building this model. I have really learned a lot from other people builds. I have the scanner almost done,I just have to put the clear lens the scanner barrel yet. I put two blinking leds in the face a few days back. They were blinking to fast with a full 3 volts,about a blink every second. I put a resistor on each led. Now each led blinks around every 3 seconds or so.more like the real scanner.This way I did not need a control chip. I will post a picture of the completed scanner in a few minutes. Hope you enjoy the picture.


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## subtoair

The main body was painted Tamiya Haze Grey TS32. The small control knobs were painted,and then small thin pieces of black heat shrink were put to the rear of the painted knobs.Like I said the clear plastic rod,(Had to order some) has yet to be installed in the barrel. Both of the two bottom lights blink,and also the rear scanner is lite. I will post some pictures soon to show the viewers on how I did this in case they are interested.


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## Fernando Mureb

Simply amazing! The buttons' details are perfect! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## teslabe

I haven't had a chance to stop in, works taking up too much of my time.....:freak: I must tell you that your build is just outstanding.....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Keep posting.....:wave:


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## subtoair

Thanks! Teslabe It has been slow progress with the small details. But to me its a challenge that I enjoy. I will keep posting as I get more done.


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## subtoair

It been real busy the last few days with work and all,but wanted to post a couple of pictures of the radar on the rear scanner. I cut out the hole in the photo etched brass part. I made a box for the radar screen to fit in. I then installed the green radar scanner decal in the box. A small led was glued under the decal screen. I toke a few pictures of the screen hoping to show the green decal. By the naked eye it can be seen clearly. But the camera would wash it out. Anyway here are a few shots,but they are not very clear.


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[/URL sorry for the double post.


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## Paulbo

Way cool!


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## subtoair

Thanks Paulbo! Its slow but sure. I worked on another one of your photoetched parts today,it will be in the next posting.


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## Fernando Mureb

Fantastic job. Again, the attention to details is amazing and can be seen on the little microphone. :thumbsup:


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## subtoair

Today, we had a lot of snow in South Dakota.So it was a good day to stay inside,and get some of my own modeling done. My computer is now diving me problems! I will get back later. (Ho, the pain the pain)


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## subtoair

Well I,m back!! One of the buttons was stuck down,and would not work. So here,s hoping. I toke the Paragrafix brass gauge plate,and carefully cut out the gauge lens holes. I did this because I wanted to light up the gauge lens with a led.


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## subtoair

A scratched built box to hold the Paragafix face plate was built.


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## subtoair

A mold was made to make a new part.The Paragrafix face plate was then put on the new box for a test fit.


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## subtoair

The face plate was painted silver.


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## subtoair

Clear plastic was to be glued on the back side of the face plate,When dry it would be carefully cut out.


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I used the 560 clear glue because ti is strong and dries super clear.


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I cut out the decal that comes with the Paragrafix photo etched parts.


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The decal was placed in water for a minute or less. Micro sol was brushed on the face plate and after the decal was put down, more micro sol was brushed on top.Part was then set aside to dry over night.


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## subtoair

A bracket was made to support the box. And the box was test fitted on the dash bracket.


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Then the bracket and box were painted with Model Master (international orange) and parts are set aside to dry over night.


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## subtoair

Its getting late,but I thought that I would post a couple of pictures of the installed control console installed in the vehicle,before I would go to bed. I put a small led inside the box to light up the gauges, Again the camera does not pick up the decal detail when light. You can only see it with the light off,then the camera will pick it up.The Paragrafix photo etched brass plate and decal really adds the finish touch!


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## Paulbo

To quote "Joliette" Jake Blues: "Jesus H. Tapdancing Christ!" That's flipping awesome.


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## subtoair

Tapdancing Christ, I love it! Thank you. my friend on the nice compliments on the Chariot build! If it not for your Photo etched part,s I could never have this amount of detail! Thank you, Paulbo for giving us modeler,s your great products. Have a great thanksgiving!


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## subtoair

Two days of snowing,and snow blowing to clear the drive way,was my exercise the last few days. Man, I miss summer! The only good thing was making parts for the chariot.I built a small steering value,that fit in front of the drivers seat. I went by a picture,of the valve on the full chariot that was built on the internet. I was going to buy a crows nest figures,and other parts that was available some time back. That way I would not have to scratch build these parts. But I heard for now that they are no longer available. So scratch building it is.


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Having trouble with down loading pictures.


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After the scratched built part was made,a rubber mold was made to make two valves.


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Two new seat brackets were made to look like the real ones used on the Chariot


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Parts being painted.


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## subtoair

Sorry for the double posting.This computer is having trouble posting pictures right away. Then all at once two pictures of the same picture pops up.


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## Fernando Mureb

Great work on those miniaturizations.!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## subtoair

Well gang,back at it again.I have been looking at a few videos of the new full scale Chariot build on the internet.They had the seat cushions strap to the fiberglass seats. I was wondering if this is how the seats looked on the fox Chariot. After going thru old photos,I found that it was on how they did it on the prop 50 years back. So I could not just paint the seat cushion,s and glue them down as I thought. (nothing come,s easy) Anyway I had to make strap,s also. I used great planes black, striping tape cut down to make these. The silver snaps to hold the cushion,s on I will have to make from silver stick pin,s.(yet to be done). All of the painted part,s were installed into there place,s.Here are a few pictures.


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## subtoair

The lost in space figure was fitted to the seat module,for a test fit. The control handles were made from brass. The top rubber grips are made from heat shrink tubing. Both seat,s are held into place by magnet,s. I really like the use of magnet,s so servicing and painting is made real easy The figure can also be removed.The parking brake still has to be made.


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## Fernando Mureb

Wow!! Have you sculpted your own figures? I bought mine from Crow's Nest and I must confess that I'm in no hurry at all to deal with them, because I never liked that much this particular part of the hobby.


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## subtoair

I am the same way Fernando Mureb. I don,t mine making the figures,but painting them is hard for me to do. There faces end up looking like cartoon people. I would just like to buy them in stead. I heard the gentleman that own,s crow nest has been having some health problems. I hope the best for him and a speedy recovery, as he is a real artist with the work he does. If he is back in business by the time I need more figures,and luggage I will buy his . Other wise I will be stuck making my own.


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## John P

Just for fun, here's a video of the full-sized chariot replica that was at the Chiller con on Halloween. The LiS cast did some photo-ops with it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sj13zOUVNKs&sns=em


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## subtoair

Thanks for posting the youtube video of the full size chariot build John P. I have been following the video,s the last few months. But there might be other people that might not have seen it. A great build replica of the original Chariot.Very nicely done!!


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## subtoair

I check on when I made the new tracks for the Chariot,and it was a year ago when I made them. So this week I went back to try and make more tracks.Here is a picture of putting music wire in the molds, for support of the paddles.


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## subtoair

The mix last year varied. When I first started I mix by instructions in a book that I brought.The part came out pretty good,the best tread out of the 3 poured treads. The factory said the mix should be changed.So I went by there instructions.The parts came out kinda soft,not the best,so I quit making treads.Thinking it was to much time and expense to go on. to I thought it was time to try it again,making a few improvements,and going buy the instructions in the book. I poured up 4 new tracks,and I must say gang they came out almost perfect!! the first two tracks had a few air bubbles (I filled in later by hand and turned out nice.The last two tracks came out even better with more practice. So here are a few pictures of my progress,the last few days.


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## teslabe

You have done a fantastic job with all the detail....:thumbsup: You really have a talent with molding your own parts, the tracks look great, do you plan on selling any????


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## subtoair

Hi Teslabe, glad you like the new treads.I have a extra new set that I was thinking on putting on ebay,to get my expense,s back,in the near future. I really don,t know what to charge for them,this way if I put them on Ebay people can pay what they are comfortable with.This will include two new 9 tooth rear drive sprocket,s also.These new treads are so strong they can be used for RC no problem.


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## subtoair

With the drivers compartment,s almost done,I wanted to finish the two side panel,s. They were cut out to bring the inside wall,s in around 1/8 of a inch.


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The two panel,s were redone,with new wall,s then angle support strip,s were glued in place. The top of the panels were sanded down, to allow for the thickness of the padded black stripe,s that will be glued to the panel top,s. These top black padded strip,s were made from cardboard,then painted black.


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## subtoair

With all the detail removed a new speaker was custom made on the lathe,


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The chair cushion,s were finished with the new snap pin,s made from sewing pin,s turned down. The parking brake was made from brass rod,and a new handle was turned on the lathe.


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## subtoair

The new side panel,s.


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## GEH737

As someone who'd like to get a set of those tracks... It would be a shame to have gone through all that work - and only have one extra set available. I'd imagine that there'd be more than a few who would be willing to pay for a set 

George


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## subtoair

I agree that a lot of time and work went into making the track mold,s George.I will take more picture,s of the track,s and what it take,s to get them ready for installing on the model. I will figure out a price,on my time and material,s and what I have to have for price. I will just put them up for sale on this form,that way I don,t have to pay Ebay cost.


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## subtoair

I wanted to work on the rear flooring,so I ordered some plastruct N scale checker plate flooring. It come,s in to small square,s. But there is enough to cover the floor.


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The flooring fitted down loose,to check for fit. The two plastic squares had to be sanded down to were the sheets were thinner.


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## subtoair

Next step was to figure out on how to make the top clear canopy so it can be removed for servicing. I came up with the idea of making the four side curtains fitted with magnets so they can be removed from the two side cabinets. A brass rod will be glued to the inside of the curtain halves. The bottom of the rods will hold the magnets. I did not have on any magnets on hand,so I had to order some from China. So this part of construction will be put on hold for a couple of weeks. I don,t know if this idea will work,but I thought I will give it a try.


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The top canopy fitted to the bottom of the Chariot,to check for fit.


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## subtoair

Well in a few days Christmas will be here,were does the time go? I wish every one merry Christmas, and a happy new year! I got back to working on the Chariot the last few days. I decided to change the canopy hold downs, from the stock curtains to square brass tubes with magnets.for one thing I did not care for looks of the stock plastic curtains in the kit.I toke 1/16 square brass tubes,and soldered brackets to the top.These matched up with the magnets glued to the inside of the canopy. The front magnet will not be seen as the front panel will be painted later. The back magnet will also be hide with the luggage cases installed later.


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## subtoair

The four brass legs were held into place by using short cut off brass tubes that were glued on the floor.


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## subtoair

Small holes were carefully drilled into the bottom of the canopy,at different locations. Small short pieces of music wire were glued into the holes. These are used as alignment pins.


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With the brass roll bars installed,the canopy lines up very nice.


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## Fernando Mureb

Excellent ideas as always, my friend. Unfortunately, I don't have the necessary tools to bend the brass tubes, but I will certainly borrow your idea about the alignment pins. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Xenodyssey

It is always interesting to see an engineering solution to a problem and how it all works.


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## teslabe

Very good idea, I'll have to look into that.


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## Paulbo

This insane the number of really great innovations you're introducing to this build.


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## subtoair

Thanks guys for the nice words on the build! I have ideas,some of the time they work, other times they don,t anyway I hope that people can use them, I will post more pictures when I get more time,the holidays slowed my building time down quit a bit.


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## starseeker

Those plastic curtains are awful, so relieved to see you're not using them. If you're planning to light the top spots, the front brass roll bar, if cut in halves and re-assembled with a non-conductive joint, would be a great way of getting of getting electricity to them. Or just run one polarity up the brass and use single wires with the other polarity inside along the frame, as they did the actual chariot. No matter how fine a wire you use (edit: tho' maybe not magnet wire?, he says, just using some on some 1/72 ejection seats) doubling them up to the roof just looks too out of scale. 
Amazing and devilishly creative work! If I ever work up courage enough to re-tackle my Chariots, I'm so going to steal your magnetic pinning idea.


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## subtoair

Thank you! Starseeker for the nice complements. The brass roll bars ( I don,t know what else to call them.) have been working good,so far. I have the rear seats done and mounted. Putting the small pins in the seats took some time,but look better with then installed. I installed the front and back bumpers, along with the headlights. The bottom spot lights front and back, have yet to be installed. Anyway here are a few pictures,hope you viewers enjoy them.


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The headlight were masked off by using Parafilm. Rubbing it down real good, then peeling it back up to the lens area.


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After its been painted.


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## subtoair

I just set in the luggage to see on how it looks. Time to build new luggage cases,the original ones looks like crap. Wish that I could buy the crows nest ones,save me a lot of work of building my own.


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## Xenodyssey

For the luggage I used the tool boxes from one of the Tamiya racing car accessory sets. Worked very well.


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## subtoair

I never thought of using the Tamiya tool Box,s very good idea Xenodyssey! Do you have a part number for the tool set? The first part of this week I spent some time in making the luggage cases. A mold will be made to make more cases later. The smaller steel case will be made in the next few days. Then the 3 rolled solar shields (they look like bed rolls) will be made. I will post a few pictures later. I plan on making a few sets if anyone might need them for there Chariot build. But first I will make a set for my self and see on how they look.


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## Fernando Mureb

Perfect!!! Did you sculpt the case using wood to make the mold?


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## subtoair

Its a long way from perfect,Fernando Mureb but closer that the stock cases that come with the model. I have the other case done today.Now I am waiting on rubber silicone. I will try and post a few more pictures later. Glad you like it.


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## subtoair

I carefully cut out the screen floor from Parafix. Very nice looking piece,that will add a lot of detail to the luggage rack!


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## subtoair

I went and brought a new photo etched bender a while back. I very handy Tool!


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## subtoair

WOW!! what a difference the Parafix photo etched part made.


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## subtoair

A couple of storage cases set on the screen,to see how they look.


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## teslabe

subtoair said:


> A couple of storage cases set on the screen,to see how they look.


Wow, the cases look fantastic......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Love following you work, keep posting....:wave:


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## Xenodyssey

Great work with the photo etch and the cases. The etch certainly adds to the level of detail.


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## subtoair

Thanks guys for the nice words on the luggage cases! I have been away from the Chariot project for a while,because of other work that needed to be done. I hope to get back to it soon so I can post more pictures. I want to get more painting done on top of the body,then I can add the spot lights etc. This has been a fun but slow project. In case anyone might be interested I have the first 
set of drive tracks that I made on Ebay for sale. Talk to everyone soon.


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## Sage the Owl

Do you have a link for the tracks as i've done a search but nothing comes up ?


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## subtoair

I got home late last night (Sage The Owl) After I read your post it was sold. I might have a new set coming on Ebay in the future. when I do I will be sure to post the link for the viewers to see. Sorry about that,and thank you for your interest!


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## GEH737

I lost out on that eBay bid... That other guy really wanted it. Congratulations 

I'd still like to get a set - they look great!

Hitch


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## subtoair

Finally got to getting a little more work done on the Chariot. I wanted to paint the frames in the canopy. I decided to order the aztec masks for the model.I will have to wait awhile to receive them in the mail. In stead of using the stripping inside of the canopy,I chose to paint it. I will use the mask for the outside of the canopy,then paint the silver paint over them. I used the blue tape to mask off all the frame work to paint it. My god! that was a lot of work!,but after you remove the tape you will see a big difference with the detailed framing. Here are a few pictures.


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## subtoair

A quick up date: I have received the Aztek dummy masks in just a couple of days when ordered from Starship modeler. Very fast shipping! Anyway here are a few pictures of the two sheets of vinyl masks and instructions that come with the kit. I will post more pictures when I apply them to the chariot,tomorrow or the next day.stay tuned!


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## subtoair

The way I understand it, the darker orange vinyl is used for the thin strips in the inside of the canopy. The lighter orange vinyl is used for the masks on the outside of the canopy. I will not use the thin strips for the inside of the canopy,as I chose to paint it instead.


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## subtoair

Well I bit the bullet yesterday and painted the clear top body,or canopy if you want to call it that.I thought that I would first try out the four small doors,to get the feel of the masks. They peal off very easy from the backing paper,and have a very low tack to make it easy to adjust around. Like they stated in the instructions some of the masks are a little smaller than the windrows. This is no problem as Azetek Dummy has extra strips that you peel off to cover these areas. If you need to you could cut your own strips also from scrap pieces. It took me around a hour or so to cover the complete clear upper body. A lot faster than taping it your self with blue tape. They are easy to remove once painted with no under bleed. I did not use the orange strips for the inside of the canopy,because I plan on running it out side in the sun. I did not know if they would come off or not.For display they would work great.


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## subtoair

Once in place to the clear top, the masks have a light orange or yellow look to them. If you are going to paint your canopy get these masks they save a lot of work! I give them a thumps up!!


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## subtoair

I painted the framing, universal silver color by Dupli Color This silver does not rub off like hobby paints do. Dries quick and very strong.


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## subtoair

Once masks were removed,a very clean and sharp framing is seen.


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More painting has to be done to the top of the canopy etc.


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## Xenodyssey

The whole effect is coming out very well from the new tracks to the interior details and now external paint.


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## starseeker

Top to bottom, front to back, uncompromisingly gorgeous!


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## Nektu

Awesome, front to back! Best I've seen!


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## Nektu

What is the metallic grey color on the lower body again? What paint?


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## subtoair

Thank you everyone for the nice complements on the Chariot build! Its been a long build of over a year. I am getting closer to getting it done with a few more details to be added. The robot will have to come later as time is getting short. The paint used for the main body NEKTU was made from Dupli-Color silver and black paint.You will find this posted on #178 of the form. I will look up the paint code tomorrow in case someone wants to mix there own.I can also mix some up for anyone who might be interested in a jar of it. What I like about the Dupli-Color paint it is easy to spray with a air brush,and it is very durable and will not rub off like some hobby paints. I will keep posting more pictures soon.


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## subtoair

Here is what I use on the clear canopy to clean it.It is a final wash. It will not hurt the plastic at all.It removes finger prints oils before you paint the model.You can use it on Dupli-color paint and it will not remove the paint. It will though remove hobby paints if you have over spray on the clear plastic parts. To remove small scratches on the clear parts use Plastx Just be sure to use soft towels when using the Plastx. It will keep the clear parts looking like new. Now you do not have to worry about removing over paint spray on the clear parts. It works great!


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## WEAPON X

Dennis, This is simply... Awesome! :thumbsup:
Please note, I sent a PM to you!


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## subtoair

I Pm you back please let me know if you receive it.
Dennis


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## WEAPON X

subtoair said:


> I Pm you back please let me know if you receive it.
> Dennis


Hello Dennis, I just checked the HobbyTalk PM Inbox, but thus far I don't see your reply PM yet. Did you see my original PM?
I will resend the my original email, again via PM.


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## subtoair

Hi Ben,
I got your second PM Okey but for some reason,I can not send it out? I have answered other PMs,and now I am wondering if they to did not receive them also. I will try to get back to you tonight on tomorrow thanks.

Dennis
[email protected]


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## Paulbo

If your mailbox is full I don't think it will let you send or receive.


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## WEAPON X

subtoair said:


> Hi Ben,
> I got your second PM Okey but for some reason,I can not send it out? I have answered other PMs,and now I am wondering if they to did not receive them also. I will try to get back to you tonight on tomorrow thanks.
> 
> Dennis
> [email protected]


Hi Dennis, 

Please try sending a TEST email to my direct email domain which is located on the second PM that you've stated that you did receive. Thanks! Your mentioned email address was a 'hard bounce'!


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## subtoair

Thanks for the nice complements on the Chariot. I have been working on it on and off.Here are a couple of pictures of the ladder Rungs. I added small strips of plastic to the rear of the Ladder Rungs,like on the real Chariot.


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## subtoair

To paint the Ladder Rungs,they were put in clay to hold them in place.


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## subtoair

now on to the lights.I made a mold from the bottom front and rear spot lights.These were a little bigger than the two spots on the top.I did this because they look more in scale than the little ones on top.. Leds were cast into the molds.Here are a few pictures of the model light.


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## subtoair

A separate power system will be used for powering up the two top spot lights.


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## starseeker

Ye gods, that's gorgeous!


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## Paulbo

It keeps getting better and better.


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## subtoair

Thanks guys!! I still have the gun rack and robot to finish.But with summer coming, they will have to wait this fall or winter. I will post the completed pictures soon.


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## Xenodyssey

"LEDs were cast into the molds"

Now that is an interesting idea for other models.


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## subtoair

I know that some people want to make the gun hatch to move back and forth. To do this I made two small channels that fit over the interior gun hatch frame.This allowed the hatch to move.


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## subtoair




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## Fernando Mureb

Hello there, my friend.

What a fantastic job!!! My sincere congratulations. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I wish I had at the same point on my chariot build. That problem regarding to the gap between the canopy and the front side of the body was discouraging :freak: and I decided to take a break.

I have already resumed my chariot build but in the interval I almost completed the space pod, just to cool down my mind. I hope I will soon post pictures from both kits.

Take care.:wave:


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## subtoair

Hi my Friend, Thank you for the nice words on the build. I know what you mean about needing a break from a project. I to had to take a few weeks off from the Chariot about a month ago. The canopy can be a real pain to mate up with the body. The front is for sure. I have a extra molded taller front if you need one.That way you could just cut the original front off and attach this taller one.The only thing is you would still have to install the front lights etc.Anyway if I can help you out just let me know. You have come a long ways with the Chariot build.and it is out standing!! I can not wait to see pictures of your space Pod Build also. Be sure to keep us all posted on that one. Take care.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for the offer! I isolated the body from the front piece and made an insertion of plastic strip. It was a hard, painful work puttying, sanding and painting the thing several times without messing everything else. But it is almost done.


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## Fernando Mureb

I see you put the battery to lit the search lights in one of the cases, I suppose. Great idea! I will have bad time trying to make contacts between the canopy and the body to alow current to flow from the circuit below the body until the lights on top of canopy. OMG!


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## subtoair

Back to a few more pictures. I filled the ladder mounting holes with body putty,and sanded them so the were smooth with the body. I wanted to make my own ladder brackets,as I thought the after market brackets were a little to thin.


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## subtoair

Back to a few more pictures. I filled the ladder mounting holes with body putty,and sanded them so the were smooth with the body. I wanted to make my own ladder brackets,as I thought the after market brackets were a little to thin.


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## subtoair

Sorry about the double post!


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## subtoair

Once it was sanded smooth, a new coat of silver was paint applied.


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## subtoair

The new brackets were scratch built,and then glued to the body.


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## jeffking45

*Track's*

Subtoair your chariot looks great! Hats off to you. Can I buy a pair of tracks from you? How much?


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## subtoair

Thanks for the nice complements on the Chariot! Right now I have one new set on hand,but I want to keep them as I might be using them in a Chariot commission build coming in the future. A new set would cost around $125.00 with new rear drive sprockets,and shafts. I know that is high, but there is a lot of time and work to make a set. The tracks really makes the Chariot. You can always let me know on what you decide. Thanks!

Dennis


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## jeffking45

*Track's*

Okay put me down for a set. Did you say this comes with, tracks spockets, rear axle case. What else? By the way how much for the RC components?


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## jeffking45

Also how much for the roll bars with the magnet hold downs to secure the canopy?


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## subtoair

I will have to get some prices down on the RC equipment etc. The track set comes with the rear sprockets and shaft cases, plus shafts. I will email you more information tonight or tomorrow. If you have a email address plus send it to me. For some reason I have problems to send PM thru this site. Thanks!

Dennis.
[email protected]


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## Nektu

Hi Dennis... I would be in for a set of the tracks as well. Thanks, K


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## subtoair

As soon as I get time to build a few sets I will let you know, Nektu I have you down on a list. Thanks!
Dennis,


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## tedkitus

I would like a set please


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## subtoair

Hi Guys, As you people seen I have not posted for a while,been working on other projects last month. Anyway I will try to post a few more pictures this morning. I now have you down on the track build list, Tedkitus I plan on retiring this year,and hope to get back into building the track kits this summer, in my spare time. My son Scott has shown interest in taking over the business,and have all ready done a few custom builds for people. So hopefully this trade will not be lost. Well I will try and post a few more pictures. Dennis


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## subtoair

They changed the way to post pictures,so I hope this works. Straps with hold down hooks were scratch made from plastic strips.


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## subtoair

Scratch built strap hooks were built.Then rubber molds were made to make more of them. Then strips of plastic were then carefully cut to the correct length,and put over the luggage cases. The molded hooks griped the luggage rack rail.


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## subtoair

The luggage strips were painted with Tamiya paint.


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## subtoair

The Chariot almost done.


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## subtoair

The tracks shown adjusted for RC running.


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## subtoair

The famous Lost In Space Chariot! I want to take more outside pictures soon.


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## teslabe

You have truly done one of the most realistic looking builds to date, "great job",
just seems soooooo insufficient.......:freak: I look forward to the video, keep posting my friend......:wave::wave::thumbsup: Like you, I'm getting close to retirement and look forward to spending more time on my projects, right now my job take up all my time....


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## subtoair

Thanks buddy! I two look forward to making more outside videos. Yea, I have done the model making since 1987,and have talked and seen a lot of great modelers like yourself, that made it all worth the time. I will continue to build,(in my spare time)as that is what I enjoy. Also I will keep everyone posted on the videos.


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## tedkitus

subtoair said:


> Hi Guys, As you people seen I have not posted for a while,been working on other projects last month. Anyway I will try to post a few more pictures this morning. I now have you down on the track build list, Tedkitus I plan on retiring this year,and hope to get back into building the track kits this summer, in my spare time. My son Scott has shown interest in taking over the business,and have all ready done a few custom builds for people. So hopefully this trade will not be lost. Well I will try and post a few more pictures. Dennis


Excellent Dennis. No big hurry. I just love what you've done. The model looks great. 
Efrain


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## nikstik

great build, wonder how it would go in the snow? I might have to give one a test soon.


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