# Stretched Sprue vs. Gap filling Super glue



## New Hampshire (Dec 2, 2005)

The book I read before begining scale modeling had the author using gap filling super glue to go over seams. This is what I have been using, and while in the end it does work it seems like the super glue can be REAL tough to sand and rescribe panel lines in. But then on Fine Scale Modeler.com someone mention (but not show) using stretched sprue to fill seams. Does anyone use this method, and if so do you like it better than gap filling SG? It seems sanding and clean up would be easier and cleaner with stretched sprue, is it? Also, do you just lay the stretched sprue into the gap and then run some cement over it...is it that simple???

Also, are there any tips/ideas/suggestions you can give for easy filling of the wing joints to the fuselage?

Brian


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Perhaps he means you stretch the sprue into the seam while it's still molten hot. That way it would possibly not need covering in glue to complete the filling. But the seam would need to be quite wide; with a hairline seam, the superglue idea is probaly better able to fill the crack.


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## New Hampshire (Dec 2, 2005)

Thanks for the reply!

I have one more question. I was watching this YouTube tutorial (I guess it is some modeling show made in Japan....unfortunately I don't understand a word of it, but it is educational none the less, but the lack of knowing the language leads me to this question.) I saw this gentleman building a 1/32 F-15E strike eagle. He glues the wings on. Then he used this liquid-like stuff to fill the wing joint. It was white, came in a small bottle almost like paint, applied a lot thicker than paint but with a brush from the bottle, and when he applied it I think he let it sit for a moment and then whiped away the excess leaving a perfectly filled joint/seam. What was this stuff? It loked a HELL of a lot easier to use than putty or gap filling glue.

Brian


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Sounds like a good idea, and hopefully someone here will know. They have a lot of modelling accessories in Japan like that, clever innovations which we don't seem to have. 

Usually they're called Mr. something or other, and the 'surname' tells you what it does, like Mr. Putty, Mr. Liquid Glue, Mr. Model Filler, and so on!


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## New Hampshire (Dec 2, 2005)

Thanks again for your reply. I THINK I may have found the stuff:

http://store.houseofhobbies.com/gusamrdipu.html

Brian


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

New Hampshire said:


> Also, are there any tips/ideas/suggestions you can give for easy filling of the wing joints to the fuselage?


I use Bondo Glazing Putty (which you can get at almost any auto parts store) for minor seam filling. One of the many tips I've gained from this forum is using acetone based nail polish remover to soften and blend the putty while it's still malleable; it must contain acetone, or it won't work. While I've never used it to fill wing joints, I understand many military modelers use this technique.

1) Fill the wing joint with the smallest amount of putty necessary to fill the seam; some modelers mask off the surface detail near the seam with masking tape to prevent any accidental damage.

2) Dip a Q-Tip in the nail polish remover, allow most of the nail polish remover to drain off, then use the dampened Q-Tip to smooth and blend the putty before it sets.

With a little practice you can use this method to eliminate seams and, since there's no sanding required (or minimal sanding), you won't lose any adjacent surface detail. Although I haven't used this technique on an aircraft kit yet, I have used it on styrene and resin figure kits, so I can safely say the nail polish remover does not affect styrene or resin.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

adding my 2 cents
superglue filling while good can be hard to sand IF you let it set too long. the trick it to use kicker( accelerator) on it and start sanding right away. the longer it sits the harder it gets and then its harder than the surrounding plastic. making everything difficuilt to feather. I only use that on occasions. I normally use Tamiya basic putty with zombies suggestion of nail polish remover. I would add that use the kind that has acetone in it. acetone is the chemical that removes the putty. the trick there is the let the putty dry but only for a minute or so then remove it with the Q-tip. dont get the tip sopping wet. just damp works best. you will use a lot of them but the results are worth it. if you do it right and with practice you wont need to sand most seams.
the streched sprue works ok too but putty works better for me. Pure actone works but can be too "hot" for some plastics and will actually "melt" it a little. the filler in the video is similar to Mr. Surfacer which is basically thinned putty to begin with. it comes in different "grits". 
good luck


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

Zombie_61 said:


> I use Bondo Glazing Putty (which you can get at almost any auto parts store) for minor seam filling. One of the many tips I've gained from this forum is using acetone based nail polish remover to soften and blend the putty while it's still malleable; it must contain acetone, or it won't work. While I've never used it to fill wing joints, I understand many military modelers use this technique.
> 
> 1) Fill the wing joint with the smallest amount of putty necessary to fill the seam; some modelers mask off the surface detail near the seam with masking tape to prevent any accidental damage.
> 
> ...


agreed, 
ihave used bondo and the testors putty.
i use a flat plastic toothpick put in the end of a plastis mech pencil housing.
really a nice trowel effect.
the testors, i dip tool in thinner to keep putty malleble.
the bondo, i use laquer thinner.

in my initial attempts, i used the cotton swab method and it worked very well,
in later attempts, i got much better with the trowel and did not need the swab.

i had read so much about sanding putty and scribing lines, thought there must be a better way.

the trowel gives me the ability to "scribe" in "wet" putty, havent sanded since.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

New Hampshire said:


> Thanks again for your reply. I THINK I may have found the stuff:
> 
> http://store.houseofhobbies.com/gusamrdipu.html
> 
> Brian


 
Just as I thought, it's called Mr. something or other! Thanks for showing it, now I can look for it because it sounds like it's quite a good idea.


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## New Hampshire (Dec 2, 2005)

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> Just as I thought, it's called Mr. something or other! Thanks for showing it, now I can look for it because it sounds like it's quite a good idea.



I ordered some of the 500 to try. I found this site that may be of use to you:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

Brian


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## xr4sam (Dec 9, 1999)

Brian--

You can also use thin styrene strip and believe it or not, Liquid Paper to fill seams. using Bondo Spot Putty is probably the most cost-effective thing I've ever done for modeling. That tube lasts just short of forever! The big builders sometimes use regular 2-part Bondo for heavy-duty sculpting and filling. I think it stinks too bad while curing for that.


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