# Lacquer Paint Question



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I am using the Testors Two-Part lacquer paint system for a model. According to the directions, you put the color coat down after priming, then put down the ultra glosscoat for the finish. But with my practice tests, the finish isn't really that shiny. 

Question: Can you buff and polish Testors 2-part lacquer paints between coats?

Thanks for your response!

BTW, here is a site I found concerning buffing:

http://www.italianhorses.net/tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm

:wave:


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## Disco58 (Apr 10, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> I am using the Testors Two-Part lacquer paint system for a model. According to the directions, you put the color coat down after priming, then put down the ultra glosscoat for the finish. But with my practice tests, the finish isn't really that shiny.
> 
> Question: Can you buff and polish Testors 2-part lacquer paints between coats?
> 
> ...


Two words, yes and but... Yes, you can and may need to wetsand/polish between the color and clear coats if you see any orange peel, blemishes, dust nibs, etc. using 2000 - 3600 sanding pads or toothpaste (has to be the white paste, no gels) on a soft cloth.. But, DO NOT use any kind of compound containing wax between the color and clear coats. Paint will not stick to wax, today, tomorrow or next year. On that note, I have to wholeheartedly disagree with something in the article. Waxes are not abrasive, at least they'd better not be. Waxes are just that, waxes. Wax is just a sealant/protective coat over paint, period. While there are "polishes" that contain wax as well, they're a different animal. Once they're used you're done painting for reasons mentioned above. There are buffing/rubbing compounds, polishing compounds (much finer abrasive than buffing/rubbing compound) and wax. There are also 'swirl mark removers' which is a polishing compound, but even finer yet than average polishing compound. They're used on 1:1 scale applications where you've machine buffed something and left swirl marks from the pad and compound, hence the name. One fine example of a 'polish' that really isn't is Future floor finish. It says (or used to say) 'floor polish' on the bottle. Polish has an abrasive in it, Future does not. It's just a clear acrylic that makes an incredible gloss topcoat, and doesn't need to be waxed. Hope this helps.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I have used the wet look clear and gotten very deep, high gloss, finishes. I am not all into buffing and polishing out coats of paint on cars although you can do it with the Testors (and Tamiya) lacquers.

There are a couple tricks. One is it takes a lot of coats. For a couple models I applied maybe 8 layers. One coat isn't going to do it. Apply lighter coats to build up the depth and gloss slowly (and to prevent running) then hit it with one good wet coat. The wet coat should be wet on the model so it dries as one solid smooth layer.

Also, being lacquers, heat and humidity can effect the luster you get (or don't get)


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, Disco58 and djnick66! This helps! OK. Fessing up: I posted this here to get the car finish experts. But my model is going to be a gloss white Flying Sub, from Moebius. Not a classic yellow version, but my own white body/red accents for a special project. And I don't want to screw it up. I have about $250 in this one, adding aftermarket stuff. 

I'm stalled on it because of TOTAL FEAR!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Make sure the primer is compatible with the lacquer. I used the wrong primer on my sedan delivery, and it took alot of tamiya orange to get a gloss. is the paint dull, or can you see bodywork/molding impressions in the finish?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> Make sure the primer is compatible with the lacquer. I used the wrong primer on my sedan delivery, and it took alot of tamiya orange to get a gloss. is the paint dull, or can you see bodywork/molding impressions in the finish?


I bought the it off the same lacquer rack as the white color coat and the ultra gloss coat. I assume it is the right one!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Like Disco and Djink said...there are variables. But when I want an almost no- brainer nice finish I use lacquer.

Tell us how the finish looks, and what you are worried/unhappy about

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> Like Disco and Djink said...there are variables. But when I want an almost no- brainer nice finish I use lacquer.
> 
> Tell us how the finish looks, and what you are worried/unhappy about
> 
> Steve


Not quite there yet. Not far enough along to know if I'm unhappy. I just wanted to get the most shine, (painted airliner-style shine) on to this model. I'll post more after Christmas, when the weather breaks here. Thanks for hanging in there with me!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Read this in John Wayne's Voice "I can make anything shiney pilgrim"

This ship is white also...will that work?
































This is the first half of the testor's two stage system. The ship is painted in White Lightning.
I polished the color coats with 1200 grit and plastic polish between coats. This thing is cast resin, 'kinda like a block of wood. The clear coats will go on after all the detail painting and decals.

_I want to apologise to the gentle readers here on this car board for postin these here spaceship pictures, but I think you all will agree, it is in topic... _Steve


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