# Lighted Viper MKVII



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm lighting the Moebius MKII Viper using The PE set from ParaGraphix:
http://www.paragrafix.biz/product_detail.asp?MainCat=Subject&SubCat=Battlestar Galactica&PPartNum=PGX144
And the Starling Tech drop-in light kit

The Viper kit showed up today along with Stan's light kit.
The ParaGraphix kit arrived at the same time..*ordered on Sunday...here on Wednesday thanks for the fast shipping Paul! * I'll have pics in a bit, it's a simple install, we are going to light the cockpit and the guns..depending on your skilset this should only take a day or two.

The light kit is cool. It comes with 10 pre-wired and soldered LEDs,.. 6 for the engines, 3 for the cockpit, and 1 already set up for the fiber optic strands to the guns. (the kit even has extra FO and instructions if the builder wants to light the wingtips!) pre-installed 9 vt battery clip and switch..
The PE set Is as usual, stellar, easy to bend high, quality brass with decals for the panels and well researched instructions..

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

I look forward to this.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm glad, it will really help you as you build yours.
lots of hints and instruction...

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

No doubt.

Can you measure the internal diameter of the rear of the exhaust cans for me? need to make up the led mount plate to go in there 

Still, lots of piccies and some videos!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I will, but you shouldn't need them..wait till your kit shows up or look at the pics.
Here is the light kit:








Here is the PE








The PE set might have what you are wanting already..you could use the exhaust frames perhaps?

Since we are back in school I'll start with the basics.
I used to use clippers or cutters to cut the PE parts away from the fret.
I find a chisel blade works much better and if you are careful no extra trimming needed









The brass is primed with tamiya fine white primer

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

looks good.

Reason for making my own mounts is to ensure even spacing between them and a good fit into the model.

That fine white came out nice by the way.

Thats the cockpit PE right?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Yup that's the whole fret..most of it is cockpit. Tamiya is an amazing paint, it really is..

here are the insides of the engines..tell me where you need the diameters from.. I dragged out the 'ole digital caliper..lol









Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Um, just inside the rear "wall" would be fantastic steve.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

steve123 said:


> ...I used to use clippers or cutters to cut the PE parts away from the fret.
> I find a chisel blade works much better and if you are careful no extra trimming needed...


IMPORTANT TIP: While it _might_ be OK working with thicker PE, it's not a good idea to cut it this way on a soft cutting mat like the one in Steve's photo. Especially on thinner material, or PE with intricate designs, the PE can kink as the mat flexes under it.

A solid, firm surface is much better: a cheap glass cutting board from the dollar store, an extra piece of floor tile, etc.


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## ryoga (Oct 6, 2009)

Paul is correct. That's not a good method to separate the PE parts as it may cause the PE to bend. I suggest investing in good PE tools

http://starshipmodeler.biz/shop/index.cfm/category/160/photo-etch-tools.cfm


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Actually, Paul sells those cutters too (and cheaper)....

http://www.paragrafix.biz/search01.asp?MainCat=Tools

I can also recommend his Photofold bender for the more fiddly bends although a lot of the larger components such as the cockpit tub fold really easily without tools.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Paulbo said:


> IMPORTANT TIP: While it _might_ be OK working with thicker PE, it's not a good idea to cut it this way on a soft cutting mat like the one in Steve's photo. Especially on thinner material, or PE with intricate designs, the PE can kink as the mat flexes under it.
> 
> A solid, firm surface is much better: a cheap glass cutting board from the dollar store, an extra piece of floor tile, etc.


I use a piece of granite slab....


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Cuticle scissors here.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Man, Paul if you are going to make me look like a Monkey, at least hand me a bannana...lol 

I've been using cuticle scissors too, but this chisel blade is almost as sharp as my dear Wife's tongue......And I find that I don't need to go back and remove any stubs
I never heard about the resilient surface thing before...
I had to chase down the paint for the hull so we are back...pics soon

I'll take measurements now too and pics of where from in case I'm measuring the wrong place

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

OK, I washed the banana off my hands and the egg off my face...lol

The cockpit fits together very easily:









Here are the inside engine measurements:
widest part: 23. 5MM








narrowest part:14. 3MM










(Next gadget I buy will be a finger gauge)

Then I needed to get the light kit ready to test, this involved..._*hooking up a 9 VT battery..lol*_










Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

awesome thank you.

The lighting kit looks good, I'll be honest it looks better than the store images. Look forward to seeing it go into the model.

the photo etch is looking awesome, doesnt look like the primer cracked either! awesome job.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

No problem, and sorry I was getting harsh...Stan is a good guy and makes nice stuff.. I never mind when folks pick on _me_...lol
give yourself a little fudge room.. .2 or so and just sand to fit.

This is the 3 BSG kit I've done this season and the color research can drive ya crazy...

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

I'm not to fussed over accuracy with this model so i'll just go by the instructions myself.

Will be nice to see your research paying off and i will be watching closely.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

If you see a color that you think works, I'll tell you what I used.. If I can't find the exact match, I go with practicality.

Primer is drying on the hull,..then light blocking paint (only around the cockpit and engines on this kit), since the guns use FO it's not a worry.

Steve


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> I use a piece of granite slab....


That sounds like a perfect surface. 

I like the scissors, I like the chisel blade Xacto knife. Sometimes I use one, sometimes the other. One thing I suggest with the blade is to use a whet stone and some honing oil - I've used the same #17 blade for 4 years to break down photoetch.



steve123 said:


> ... I never heard about the resilient surface thing before...


You mean you haven't watched this video?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Have you _*seen*_ my work bench..?

I have to make room to set a glass of decal water down...lol _no_ room for more cutting surfaces..

One thing I will bring up because it bit me today.._my tail end looks like a cat scratching post today..lol._

Wash the parts before painting..the PE fret I wipe down with alcohol..but moebius kits seem to have lots of mold release oil.
Stan washed the kit when he had it, I washed it again today, and I _still_ had a little bit of fisheye when I shot the hull in primer.

Light blocking is in.. examining the PE cockpit to see if mods will be needed to get my LEDs in the armrests.

















Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> Have you _*seen*_ my work bench..?
> 
> I have to make room to set a glass of decal water down...lol _no_ room for more cutting surfaces..
> 
> ...


Freaking awesome shot. 

I have some of my own of the Full size exterior from the Seattle Sci/Fi museum. (I love posting those any chance I get!):wave:





































Sorry to hijack! Not meaning to!!!:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Note how different the wing details are from the model. Not really inaccurate in a sense. All full size mockups are different from filming miniatures. Note the metal meshing in the little square vents near the back of the laser cannons. Interesting photo etch opportunity for the "super detailer"


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

You aren't hijacking..thanks for the pics..but the colors I was going to use are off...darn. That looks like gunship gray.. I was going to use a luftwaffe nightfighter color..

I'm looking for a good pic of a suited up pilot...

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I used Tamyia version of Pontiac Engine Blue (not really the name)


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Starbuck:

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/205530_105826372834837_4125924_n.jpg


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Yours looks great! very nice work..post some more pics if you want to..I love the work you do

I'm going to play with tamiya AS-5.. I'll need to weather and add a subtle mettalic..
Thanks for the pilot pic.. uniform looks like "gestapo green" leather...lol

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _ "gestapo green"_


Hahah! I posted that to my Facebook page and needless to say my wife did not "like" that pic!


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## Moebius (Mar 15, 2007)

The detail difference comes from the fact the cgi and the 1/1 are different in many ways once you start to look. We used the cgi details, so many things don't match the "Seattle" version. Color is probably the biggest difference. The MKII has even more discrepancies when you start to look!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Hey! good to "see" you!

I really like the kit, as usual the fit is so good,.. that too much light blocking paint and the parts start not fitting.

I don't know how you research this stuff and not want to watch Smokey and the Bandit for a week.. This is the 3rd time I've had to watch BSG..not a fan....lol... Bugs Bunny is a good brain cleanser after too much SciFi

The kit is a hoot...did you see my /your Munster House?

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Gear bays are painted..now we install the lights and see if I did enough light blocking.









Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I think I have the color.. it's early yet,..but I don't hate it.

























see how the different lighting changes the look?
it will look great when done..

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fabulous work. I love to watch this stuff.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moebius said:


> The detail difference comes from the fact the cgi and the 1/1 are different in many ways once you start to look. We used the cgi details, so many things don't match the "Seattle" version. Color is probably the biggest difference. The MKII has even more discrepancies when you start to look!


I loved doing this model. I got professional results in a weekend. Total joy to build. And you guys have such great kits coming! Thanks!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Me too it's a really nice little kit...pics in a few..

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

This is how I'm going to paint the pilot.








The other uniform seemed too dark..._*annnd*_ If Starbuck lived through her first mission flying in my wing..she'd be cleaning the grease traps in the galley for the rest of her carreer... I think her not following orders is one of the many irritating things about this short lived show....lol

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

The top dorsal hump/fin assembly ( I don't know the proper tech term, I'm sure the nomenclature diocese will convene and let me know my errors just like the Photoetch Tribunal did yesterday..lol)
Anyway, the upper fin asembly is perfect for a battery hatch.
The pics below show how I'm spreading it a bit to fill the tiny gaps on the sides that glue and a little filler would fix if it was glued in place..
















the copper tube is to try and put even pressure all along the seam.
The upper and lower fuselage is just stuck together with no glue..the clips on the wings are to make sure the parts are where they need to be for the fin part to fit.

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _...the copper tube is to try and put even pressure all along the seam._


Smart. I'll steal that one. Not visualizing the battery housing, yet. (I'm spatially challenged :tongue 

Can't wait to see more!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Sim, sim, shalla-BIM!
Here is the battery hatch:








and, it fits nice now without glue:









I love the way the kit fits together to hide most seams and to allow building in sub-assemblies..

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here is why the upper part needs a bit of spreading..I should have shown this sooner..two locator pegs need to be whacked off to make room for the batt. The pegs, if left uncut will hold the top of the hull down very nicely..but, we need more room..
I guess I jumped the Stork...sorry...hee hee...









Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Once again, SMART!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I am so smart, I am so smart...S,M,R, T....

It was Stan who set up the way the kit is engineered.

He roughs installs the kits, I do a Beta build, and if tweaks are needed they get fixed before kits ship out.

Installing engine lights now..pics as soon as I get the white/blue effect the way I like it.

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

These LEDs are bright..I'm a little snowblind now..
The ParaGraphix PE set comes with a very nice set of detail images on translucent photofilm. I used the ones for the engine simulators to cut my own diffusion screens for the engines. 

























once I had the size and shape I needed I simply sanded the clear plastic untill it was to the desired cloudyness( I call this "Dial -a- Diffuser")...lol

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I like to use hot glue to anchor my LEDs..it gives working time to position them, and if you hate the way they look you can carefully remove it with no damage.








Then I added the PE








when that all fit I added the diffuser.








The way the lighting works, it's really more of a subliminal "glimmer"
than flickering...it's striking to see.

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

The blue /white combo is really great looking.








Combined with the PE I really like it.
The "glimmer" that the blue LEDs do really is a great effect...it's like looking at a distant object on a hot day....subliminal..but noticeable.

Steve


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

*Hidden battery-Mark VII*

Definitely on the right track with that hidden battery- I used a similar technique a while back to hide a 9V battery. See picture- I used rubber bands to secure the battery so it could be changed, but at the rate I show it off it will be years before it runs out of juice!

But definitely major upside to not having exposed wires...


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

That was _your_ build.. Sorry we didn't credit your idea. Very nice work.
I love the way she came out. Is that Gunship grey?..make me want to re paint mine. Post more pics if you can, very nice work!

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Those lights are really nice. I love the inserts and the way the light sets them off. Very realistic. I like all the Viper kits. They seem more plausible than other sci/fi atmosphere/space vehicles. The X-Wing would never fly.....


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

modelguy1 said:


> Definitely on the right track with that hidden battery- I used a similar technique a while back to hide a 9V battery. See picture- I used rubber bands to secure the battery so it could be changed, but at the rate I show it off it will be years before it runs out of juice!
> 
> But definitely major upside to not having exposed wires...


VERY impressive work, there! It was great to see it in person. :thumbsup:


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

*Paint technique*

Ok, since you asked- here is how I got from there to here. Some was intentional, but most was "holy crap... That worked?"

Perfesser coffee has been through this rundown already...

1)prime with Tamiya grey from the can. Fill defects, prime again. When satisfied, rub down model with old swatch of denim to produce a very smooth burnished surface.

2) spray with MM metallic silver blue# 1964 in the rattle can. despair that you have painted the model a very obnoxious color. Cuss at modelguy1 for leading you wrong... Note that paint will leave a some texture.

3) spray model with testors gloss coat from the can. This will actually "knock down" the blue in the silver blue. Hose it on good to give a nice smooth coat. 

4) this is the important part- WITHOUT mixing the bottle, draw fluid off the top of Pactra RC Acryl color change blue and airbrush it onto model. This gives the model a cool blue ranging to a purple on the curves and at a point that is perpendicular to the viewer. This give the model a "cool" look and a depth that causes the eye to move along the model versus fixing it in one spot. It is a nice touch, I use it literally on all space model. Not mixing the bottle cuts down on the blue/purple and the color change. Repeat this until it looks right without overkill. Let dry.

5) I use Pentel fine tip pen, but any water-soluble ink-filled fine tip marker will work- trace the panel lines. No need for a wa, and there really insn't a lot of surface detail on this model to pull out anyway with a wash. Then, with a drying-damp rag, wipe the model front to back. This pulls the ink out of the panel lines and smears it back. Doing it once leaves real heavy weathering, repet until you get to the effect you want. You are shooting for the kind of look in which the ship has accumulated dirt in the panel joints, but as it flies through (maybe) a planet's moist atmosphere the dirt smears back.

6) gloss coat again, and decal. I must admit that I have had terrible luck with Moebius decals, no matter how I prep or how much microsol I use I often get edges that stand out. It is like the decals are to thick or something. I am often forced to do innovative things to hide the edges. Once decals are done, wipe down with damp rag and airbrush dirt and "blowback" with a very thin mixture MM aircraft interior black. I like 'em dirty, but it is up to you. I also like to "pick" at the leading edges of the decals after thy have dried with a knife or a piece of scotch tape to make them look abraded. 

7) dull cote the whole thing. A lot. This will kill the color shift a bit more, so be prepared for this. If you were "just right" in step 4 this will leave you a little disappointed. If you had too much - cool- repeat dull cote until you have knocked it down to what you wan. 

A note about the canopy- most markVII that are exhibited on this site have a glaring omission on the canopy. Bathe full size studio mockup has a frame that holds the canopy that is not called out on the model. You need to paint this frame in. 

I know it all sounds complicated, but I can be done in 2 evenings. I am typing this on my iPad, so I don't know how to attach pictures, but when I get to my iMac I will post a couple pics.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks! looks like a great technique.

my build has slowed to a crawl..it's too cold to really paint( I shoot outside because I have a parrot).. I'm fiddling with the cockpit and pilot as I wait for Ra to warm up my paint booth..

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here's the Pilot figure..
















I asked him if his call sign was "Liberace"...
He didn't seem to like that.









Steve


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

This doesn't happen very often, but the instructions that come with the model on how to mix the green and gold comes out dead on to the actual color of the viper pilot outfits.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I primed him with fine white, then aluminium plate (all tamiya)

I tried a tinted future dip, but that was a waste..I used tamiya clear green and washed it a few times with grey acrylic...not done yet. but I don't hate the way it's progressing.

I shot the cockpit and was able to install some of the cool photofilm inserts.

I'll be working on light guides and diffusion tomorrow...as well a painting some teeny -weeny buttons..









Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Getting closer..
Since the entire light kit is presoldered and assembled, the only mods needed to install it are minor. Cut a hole for the on/off switch. after the cockpit is assembled...(the builder can use the kit cockpit or the aftermarket PE cockpit) then just install the 3 cockpit lights and then route the fiber optic strands to the wing guns..

















More pics in a bit.

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Got all the power and switches and engine lights locked down.

Fits nicely:

























Now I'll get the cockpit lighted up....

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Forgive me for all the test pics. I'm just playing with the lights and deciding where to put what.
























The colors are a bit washed out, but the pics will show how cool the cockpit looks with lights.

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

This is really coming out cool. 

Personal observation: (having never really watched the show enough to judge) The 2002 laptop keyboard being front and center is a bizarre design and I cannot think of a weirder placement of such a piece of equipment. But what do I know? I've never seen the Mk 7 in action.

Nevertheless, the lights make all the difference. Great job.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I figure that is how the Cylons kicked 'em off all their planets...lol

In my Squadron, *I'll* shoot you down myself if I catch you typing during a dogfight... hee hee

We're in big trouble now.. the Arbiters of Galactica Dogma are convening as we speak...

Steve callsign : *"Wildman*"


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

There is an episode in which starbucks and lee are exchanging texts during a confrontation on their keyboards if I recall.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> ...The 2002 laptop keyboard being front and center is a bizarre design...


It's actually a 1983 complete laptop - the TRS-80 model 100. When I was designing the etch set something about the keyboard kept niggling at me and I finally realized what it was ... I dug through my basement and pulled out my machine and confirmed that, yes, that's what it is. It made a great reference for matching sizing for the interior.

The lighting's looking super, Steve.


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

Does that thing work- how awesome! I remembered that TRS-80 s were a swoopy sort of all-in-one computer with up to two (!) floppy drives off to the right hand side. This was great help in copying the earliest PC based comput games.

Remember formatting disks. I can still remember the commands to type in, and then you would watch the agonizing count of sectors complete.

Back in those days we really weren't sure what these computers were for...but they kept us entertained for hours!

Richard


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Yup, still works. I have the tape drive for storing programs and data (tape!?!?) but I have no idea where my program cassettes are. No great loss - they were only estimating programs I'd written for the company I used to work for.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I was thinking it was a word processor..but the screen is too big.
Thanks Paul!! I'm still messing with how to light all the goodies you have included.









Whenever I get this close with the camera, I always go Aughhhh..
But it makes me a better modeler..now I can see where I need to fix stuff..lol 

Steve


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Man This is awesome!! I would love to do this, but I'm chicken to do lighting.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

With this light kit all you need to do is drill some holes for the guns and a slot for the switch..and plug in the battery.

If you don't use the ParaGraphix PE set you'll need to modify the kit cockpit
to use the supplied cockpit lights .

Send me a PM or E-mail and I'll show you. 

The instruction manual is fully photo illustrated..

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Now we make sure the cosmic rays don't melt the little pilot's brain...

















Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

It's subtle, but I like the look of the tinted canopy.
















Wing guns and the fiber optic strands are in:









Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm assembling the fuselage and pics in a bit...sorry busy few days..

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> Now we make sure the cosmic rays don't melt the little pilot's brain...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wonderful effect. And the lights look great to me, up close. Very nice work.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Paulbo said:


> It's actually a 1983 complete laptop - the TRS-80 model 100. When I was designing the etch set something about the keyboard kept niggling at me and I finally realized what it was ... I dug through my basement and pulled out my machine and confirmed that, yes, that's what it is. It made a great reference for matching sizing for the interior.
> 
> The lighting's looking super, Steve.


1983? I GRADUATED in 1981. Sheesh.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Lots of stuff going on this week.. I'm busier than a one-eyed-man in a burlesque show...lol

The lights are in ..I'm chasing the few little light leaks..

















Next pics: I'm closing up the fusleage..and I'll have better pics of the lights

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Just a quickie shot..so forgive any fogginess.
Better pics tomorrow..

























Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

So, I told myself, gonna need more tripod..

















Steve


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## modelguy1 (Sep 10, 2011)

Sealing around the top of the instrument panel is extremely frustrating- you may want to consider making a custom replacement for the "half moon" that attaches to the top of the console. This replacement can be tailored to seal the large gap that exists. The way it sits in the upper fuselage shell makes it very difficult to seal up with out some type of custom solution...


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I had one made, but due to a brain fart I forgot to install it before glueing the cockpit to the upper hull. Once I get the HUD the way I like it I'll stuff some dark painted cotton in the leaks..

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I just got done scratchbuilding and installing the *T*itanium *E*ther-*E*xtracting *T*urbine *H*eader or _TEETH_

This is a simple but oft neglected detail...









Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Whenever I get a little bummed out( this _*is*_ a job when you do it 7 days a week)..a pic like this makes it worth my time and effort.
Not done yet, but I like the way it looks.









Steve


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Sweet!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks! Your PE and Stan's lighting really turn a nice kit into a showpiece.
As soon as it gets gets dark I'll shoot a vid of the two dogfighting...

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

awesome stuff.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks! it really is an easy way to create a nice display model.

Use the kits and with a little help from us guys you could do this in a weekend. I seem to step on my schwanschtucker every time I touch a model..but it helps me learn..and after you guys get done laughing.. you'll remember what I did wrong and how to fix it or avoid it...

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*TEETH?*

Now it looks like a chipmunk, not a Viper! That's sacrilege!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

If you were really into BSG lore you'd already know about Galdor the Lesser from the planet Squamish. He Designed the Viper MK VII to resemble the fierce rodent predators that once trained were able to get inside a Cylon's outer armor..and chew on the wires and cables!

In the *Battle of The Nasty Sharp Teeth*, the fierce rodents were able to rout an entire Cylon landing battalion.

See? you read, you learn...
























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Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Yup,







Still messing with the Viper..
I think I'm pretty close to the look I want.

Steve


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## Uxi (Feb 11, 2013)

Awesome job. This thread inspired me to get a second Mk VII kit to do the lighting. I think the switch is my biggest concern but now I'm contemplating the PE cockpit, as well (if they ever get back in stock).


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

The cockpit's been back in stock since last week. :wave:


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## Uxi (Feb 11, 2013)

I get paid on Friday so hopefully they stay that way! Thanks, I'll hit the site and look for it and a Galactica PE kit, too.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _I think I'm pretty close to the look I want._


Sweet! Again, great job, sir!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks! This is a fun kit

I'll take a shot of the switch ...in a min. 

Busy bench this week,

















No worries about the switch, it's so well hidden that any girl you bring home from the bar, will no doubt be very impressed and lose all her inhibitions...

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Not to burst your bubble, but model kits are definitely "lady repellant" :tongue:


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## Uxi (Feb 11, 2013)

Is my search fu really weak or am I not finding a thread like this for the Mk II?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Ha! I always waited till the girl liked me.._*alot*_ before springing the model thing on 'em... 

I haven't seen a MKII build either....the light kit would drop into that kit as well..

Steve


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Just before the Viper VII came out Iain "Miniature Sun" Costall and his local modeling group did a landing bay diorama with about 10 Viper IIs and a Viper VII (a test shot that Moebius sent him). I'm pretty sure several of them were lit and their site had WIP photos ... and of course I can't find the link now.

Iain posted photos of the diorama here.


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## Uxi (Feb 11, 2013)

steve123 said:


> Ha! I always waited till the girl liked me.._*alot*_ before springing the model thing on 'em...
> 
> I haven't seen a MKII build either....the light kit would drop into that kit as well..


Don't want to deviate too much from the subject but battery would be a bit harder. I was thinking a AA in each engine but fitting a 9 volt would require more than a little creativity. 

On the outside, I find the Mk VII a much superior kit (except for the cockpit! Love the one in the Mk II but really need a PE set if/when I ever do a "hero" Mk VII with lighting), and much easier to build, too. I've never really been super good at hiding seam lines and the MK VII's are mostly hidden away while the Mk II has them right down the middle of the fuselage. I mostly just pretend they're panel lines.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm a big fan of "power out"

I'd rather have a wire coming out of the kit than try to find out how to install and then access the battery. It makes life alot easier...But having that battery inside does make it easier to ZOOM the kit around the room..Not that I ever do that,..or make laser noises..or do slow motion maneuvers in zero-gee..

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> I'm a big fan of "power out"
> 
> I'd rather have a wire coming out of the kit than try to find out how to install and then access the battery. It makes life alot easier...But having that battery inside does make it easier to ZOOM the kit around the room..Not that I ever do that,..or make laser noises..or do slow motion maneuvers in zero-gee..
> 
> Steve


...or position the model close to your eye, with the other shut to get a dramatic fly-by perspective.....
:tongue:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> I'm a big fan of "power out"
> 
> I'd rather have a wire coming out of the kit than try to find out how to install and then access the battery. It makes life alot easier...But having that battery inside does make it easier to ZOOM the kit around the room..Not that I ever do that,..or make laser noises..or do slow motion maneuvers in zero-gee..
> 
> Steve


I'm in the other camp on this. I spent many hours forcing my battery to fit behind the Pod control panel, and made the front bulkhead removable............:wave:


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## Uxi (Feb 11, 2013)

steve123 said:


> I'm a big fan of "power out"
> 
> I'd rather have a wire coming out of the kit than try to find out how to install and then access the battery. It makes life alot easier...But having that battery inside does make it easier to ZOOM the kit around the room..Not that I ever do that,..or make laser noises..or do slow motion maneuvers in zero-gee..


I buzz my kids all the time and they have a blast running from me. 

Wires would definitely get in the way of that so unless it's too big (1/350 Enterprise) I like to get the battery on the inside the kit, if possible. Or at least have a cable that disconnect so I can woosh around without power.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I forgot.. the thruster noises as I dock with the space station...

The MKVII was perfect for battery in, but the moonbus?
You'd think there wouild be plenty of room...not so much. The Orion shuttle had barely room for a 9VT..

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> I forgot.. the thruster noises as I dock with the space station...
> 
> The MKVII was perfect for battery in, but the moonbus?
> You'd think there wouild be plenty of room...not so much. The Orion shuttle had barely room for a 9VT..
> ...


Agreed.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

This is how I kneel down and get close to the models..









Not the brandy, ya dope!

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> This is how I kneel down and get close to the models..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Heck, I say kneel down and get close to the brandy!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I try not to partake of too much "'Ole Thought Provoker" while I'm building....

Steve


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