# Larger Moebius Seaview modifications



## subtoair

A while back I brought a new moebius Seaview kit.I had opened the kit up to look at it.I have put a few models together when I was a kid,(man talk about the good old days,back in the 60s and 70s) Anyway voyage was one of my favorite shows.The only model the was available was the Aurora model,small but served the purpose,of owning the great Seaview.I was just a kid of 10 years old,when I brought the Aurora model for one dollar,from the back of a comic book! After that I must have brought around five or six kits of the Aurora super sub. The kit went together pretty good, but the front windrows never seem to fit right,what a pain in the ### to install! Thats been a quite a few years back. As I said I opened up the moebius Seaview kit,to check out the quality of the kit.First class all the way!Well built parts that fit together like a glove.And the plastic was very sturdy and strong.I never had the time to assembly the kit,with work and all.Then I run on to ************* modifaction of the smaller 1/350 seaview,All I could say was wow!! I meet Paul and his father years back,on there trip to new york.Paul brought his then new 24 inch Seaview,to show me.It was the most accurate Seaview that I have Seen! Paul was a true craftsman!! Anyway to make a long story short,(to late for that) I wanted to modify the larger Moebius Seaview like he did on the smaller kit.Her are a few pictures of the stock nose of the Moebius Seaview,and the modification that I did on it.


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## subtoair

The photos show,were I installed strips of plastic to the front of the nose fins,to bring out the nose around a 1/25 of a inch.This would bring out the complete nose to get that 17 footer shark look.I then added body filler to the fin area.I use the auto filler named icing no 26006 by Napa.This a a two part filler puddy,that sets up as fast as you want it,and sands easy.The stuff is not cheap as it run me around thirty dollars for a tube.But I used it as I did not have time to wait for the cheaper model puddy to harden.And this stuff does not shrink! Great stuff! I then sanded the filler down to the contour that I wanted.


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## subtoair

A new Search light housing,was made larger and brought up to look like the 17 footer.


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## subtoair

The sonar domes were cut off.The nose was sanded down to capture more of the correct shape of the shark like look.a lot of time was taken on this step,with sanding a filling.The sonar domes were then brought down on the sides of the nose,and fitted into place.


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## subtoair

Another shot of the nose


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## subtoair

With the domes attached.


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## subtoair

I lengthen the hull by 1/25 of a inch.I molded a special insert to add to the two hull halves.It always seem to that the hull was a little to short.I measured the model when I received it and it measures,thirty eight and a half inches long.Now with the nose and hull extension it now measures thirty nine and a quarter long.I think it gave the boat more of a sleek look.


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## subtoair

Here is a close up photo of the installed spacer glued in.After the hulls were put together,I toke a sharp razer saw,and cut the deck from the hull.


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## subtoair

The biggest problem area was the flying sub bay.The sides were bowed down,when on the real model they were straight.I really don,t know how this got by the factory this way but it did.Now the 1/350 smaller had this corrected,like the real model.


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## subtoair

So with dremel in hand I started to cut away the curved sides.I had to add .040 plastic to the insides as I was starting to grind thru the sides.Then body filler was added to the front of the bay area,and the ground out areas.A lot of sand and fill was done to get the right contour of the bottom.I did not worry about all the body puddy for weight as I wanted to make a new nose casting.This way I could make a working flying sub doors if I wanted to.I also was thinking of making this model into a rc version in the future.


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## subtoair

The belly sanded,and starting to look a little better.


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## Chuck Eds

Wow, you're putting a lot of work into that, it looks great so far! I was happy to build mine OOB, it's hard to choose which details you want with the differences between the various filming miniatures anyway.

Keep the updates coming!


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## subtoair

Thanks for the nice words on my build, Chuck Eds Your right about deciding on which design to build,the 8 footer and 17 footer.Both look great,I decided on the 17 footer,because the ballast slots slant forward on the 17 footer.I dug up a few pictures on the finished flying sub bay area.Straight tubing could now be used for a bay door,as the sides are now level and straight.


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## subtoair

Here is a few pictures of the top deck removed.Before the deck was cut free,two bulkheads were super glued in place,to help hold the main hull shape.Then the two hull halves were glued together.when dry the top deck was cut.The seams are filled and primed,as seen in the picture.


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## Super 7

*Nice work!*

Hey Sub to Air, where'd we meet?? Anyway, you saw the original fiberglass 25-3/8" long, 1:192_ scale_ model right? Back then my Dad was retired and loved going along wherever I went. It was a great time.

So, I have to say, a_ very_ nice job so far. IF I MAY BE SO BOLD AS TO SUGGEST, if you can rationalize spending the additional money for an 8 window Moebius Seaview, (hey how many hours at how much $$ an hour, have you got in this so far?) buy one for the deck and sail as these were much better rendered than in the original kit. The amount of hours to correct the sail alone is worth the price of the kit; I have done it, so I know:



















The other major needed correction will be the engine nacelles. Have you access to a lathe? Looking good! ---P.


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## subtoair

Hi Paul,Its your friend Dennis,here in South Dakota,You and your dad stopped by on the way to new york,back in the early 90s You had that new 25 inch Seaview along.It was super good looking!! That been quit a few years back! I really liked your 1/350 scale seaview modifactions.That what got me on this project a while back.I just about got the sail done,and will post more pictures soon.I have the moebius 8 windrow Seaview on the shelf. It looks more accurate than the 4 windrow model.But as you know,we both like a challenge! We will have to keep in touch! Well I better go, Looks like dinner is ready.


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## subtoair

The sail was cut down by fitting the top of the sail flush with the sides of the body,like paul had done on the 1/350 model.I then gave the front of the sail more rake,or slope.This was done by cutting the front bottom of the sail.Then plastic was inserted to get the right angle of the sail.Body filler was then added to smooth out the sail.I do have a milling machine to work on the engine tubes,Super 7.Could you give me a idea of what changes have to be made?


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## subtoair

These pictures should have been posted before the other ones.To show what was done.


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## Super 7

*Nacelles*

Hi Dennis,

Okay you're way ahead of me on the sail, looks excellent. I'd have to say you have an unusually good idea and skill at executing the difficult to render shapes of the Seaview. I'd also say, you may well have some experience at this! Maybe you scratch-built one of these here things or something along those lines. (lol)

Well, those nacelles are bit of a bear. I did up only one and will post pics as soon as possible. You must also cant them outboard (facing towards the nose) as well, I did just that on the iddy-biddy (a technical term) Seaview.

Give me a little time here. ---Paul


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## subtoair

Hi Paul,Thanks for getting back to me,on this project.Yea, I had a spent a little time around this model (lol) Anyway I still have a lot to learn,about the design.You always did a lot of research on the Seaview,thru the years,and it really shows with your accurate models.Any ideas on this build that you could give me would really be appreciated! When ever you have time,you can get back to me,no problem.Thanks!! Dennis.


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## Super 7

*Big Moebius Nacelle mod*

Dennis, 

Here is where I was yesterday after spending a bit of time unearthing this stuff: 










You can clearly see that I've separated the acrylic modification from the original front 3/5ths of the larger Moebius Seaview nacelle for this photo and explanation. 

The new section (frosted clear and white) is made from a piece of 1.25" O.D. x 1" I.D. lathe-turned acrylic tube sleeved with a wrapper of sheet styrene to bring the O.D. up to 1.325" which was an enormous amount of work. That was then fitted at a slight angle (in-board towards the skeg in a horizontal plane) to the front section of the original nacelle.

If you can find a piece of acrylic tube that's 1.375" O.D. (1 and 3/8ths inch) that would make this project a bit more feasible. I quit working on it when it became _real_ work and not fun. Also, knowing what was waiting ahead of me that I would have to do to the nose (as you've already very successfully achieved as seen here) killed all motivation. I re-attempted the efforts once again when the little Moebius Seaview was released with the results posted elsewhere on my thread.

Rather than having me write all about what's going on with this mod, here on _your_ thread, please refer back to my thread on the mods I did with the 1/350 Moebius Seaview. I will try to have all posted by tomorrow including necessary dimensions.

As the stern of the larger Moebius Seaview is the same for both Flying Sub and the 8 window, and therefore may be of interest, I'll go ahead and finish one side off the stern in the larger size, including the nacelle fin and the needed mods to the tail fin and especially the "bullet" tail light fairing:










Thanks. ---Paul


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## subtoair

Hi Paul, Man! you really refited the rear end of the seaview,it looks great!!!I also went on the 1/350 scale thread,and read all the extra work you did on the rear tubes,and the trailing edge of the top fins.I really like the looks of the stearn now.I do have a lathe to do the modifactions to the tubes in my shop, it looks like a lot of work,but if I want a model that looks accurate then I will have to do it.Did you get both of the rear tubes,left and right turned down? I thought that the rear tubes needed that rear turned down look myself.The stock ones were to straight and large and looked more like a funnel in the back.I noticed you also widen the side fins,which looks more like the real 17 foot seaview,it looks a lot better! I did more work on the model myself and will post more pictures soon. I sent you a pm a while back and was wondering if you receive it? Im just learning to post on this site,and still making mistakes.Thanks for all your help,and imformation on this project! Dennis


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## Super 7

*See stern now*

Thank you Dennis for the compliments. As to that PM, I never got one! --P.


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## subtoair

Paul I just sent you a pm with what you needed,I wanted the same thing from you also.let me know if you receive it.Dennis


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## subtoair

Here are a few pictures of the Seaview after I installed two more hull spacers. I did this after I in stalled the 1/25. The boat still looked to short so I installed two more spacers.This put the boat to 40/1/2 inches long.the boat is now 2 inches longer. I think it made the model more sleek.


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## Seaview

Subtoair, first off, I'd like to welcome you to HobbyTalk. Between your and Super7's inspiring posts, any one of us can learn to modify an already nice OOB model kit into a true replica of my favorite sub! I'm thinking of selling the 2 that I've already built and building a third one with the techniques both of you have been good enough to share. Thank you! :thumbsup:


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## subtoair

Seaview,Thank you for the nice words on Paul and I modeling changes on the moebius Seaview. It is a fun project and with what I learned on this build the next on would be a lot easier.I would say get another kit and give it a try,and I would be very happy to help you or anyone else with there new build if they are interested.Its a great looking ship! Dennis


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## subtoair

The search light housing seemed a little to small,so a larger one was turned down on a lathe.This was then installed into the front of the nose,A little body filler was applied around the housing.I made sure that not to much filler was added,as I wanted to keep the light housing round,like on the real 17 foot seaview.The fiiller was carefully sanded to keep the shape right.I then sanded more down on the top sides of the nose to blend in with the contours of the front nose.Its getting closer to were I want it.


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## subtoair

I wanted to post more pictures,But Im up to my limit on pictures.


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## Seaview

Up to your limit on pics??? I'd recommend that you contact HT Board owner "Hankster" to see if there is any way to rectify this situation. :dude:


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## subtoair

Thanks Seaview! I emailed them late last night,so hopefully I will hear from them today,as I really don,t know on how to correct this.


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## zike

subtoair said:


> I wanted to post more pictures,But Im up to my limit on pictures.


Get a free account at a photo hosting site like photobucket.

I've got about 2000 photos in my photobucket account. Then you can just link to them in your posts here.


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## subtoair

Here's the latest pictures from today.

http://s1286.beta.photobucket.com/


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## zike

subtoair said:


> Here's the latest pictures from today.
> 
> http://s1286.beta.photobucket.com/


I think what you've done here is linked to the general photobucket site.

We need a more specific link to take us to your pictures. If we click on that link, we go to photobucket but we can't find what you've posted. You can see them because photobucket will automatically take you to your home page. But the rest of us will be taken to our own home pages.

There's a couple of ways to do this.

Go to where you have your images posted in an album or library. We need the link to that page. Copy the address from the address bar at the top of the page or get it from the "Links" section on the right side of the page. Copy that into your message.


But here's an even BETTER WAY .

You can post your pictures directly here so that we can see them in the posts without clicking on a link.

Just find the photo you want to post from photobucket. Move your mouse over the photo. When you do that, a "gear wheel" icon appears in the upper right of the image. Put your mouse over the gear wheel. A drop down menu will appear. Click on "Get Links". Click on the address shown under "IMG Codes". That will copy the link and you can paste it into your message.

The image will appear in your post. Use the Preview Post button here to make sure it works. If you see it in the preview, you will see it in the post.

It takes a bit of practice at first but, after you've done it a couple of times, it's almost automatic and it only takes a few seconds.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

*large seaview*

Thanks Zike! Can you get them now? My son just changed this for me.Thank you for showing me on how to do this. Dennis


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## zike

subtoair said:


> Thanks Zike! Can you get them now? My son just changed this for me.Thank you for showing me on how to do this. Dennis


Perfect! Looks fantastic.


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## subtoair

I tried to post a few pictures of the sail that I worked on.This picture was suppose to be the last pictured posted, as it is the finished photo but it came up to being the first.I will try and get the construction pictures on.


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## zike

subtoair said:


> I tried to post a few pictures of the sail that I worked on.This picture was suppose to be the last pictured posted, as it is the finished photo but it came up to being the first.I will try and get the construction pictures on.


Try opening photobucket in another tab or window and having BOTH this thread and photobucket open at the same time. That way you can copy and paste the pictures into your post one-at-a-time. (ie copy one, paste it here...copy the next, past it here).

It almost sound like you tried to copy the pictures as a group. If you tried that, the last picture you copied would erase the previous picture. That would explain why the LAST picture you tried to post turned out to be the ONLY picture you posted.


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## subtoair

Okey, here is a photo of the sail doors being sanded off.I used a 80 grit sandpaper to remove the doors.Use a stick so you only cut the doors and not the sail.


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## subtoair

The sail diving planes needed to extend a little futher forward to the front of the sail.This was done by super glueing small pieces of plastic to the front of the diving planes.Once in place body filler was used to blend in the front flared plastic pieces with the orginal diving planes.They were then sanded smooth and even.


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## subtoair

The diving planes sanded smooth.I had to also sand the top and bottom of the planes down,as they were to thick.They were the right thickness at the root or base,but got wider as they went to the end of the tip.I also had to sand the sides of the upper portion of the sail,to make the sail sides even.The rear of the sail was sanded to more of a point like the 17 footer.


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## subtoair

A new entry door was made to look more like the doors on the 17 footer.A rubber mold will be used to make more of these for the sail.


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## Super 7

*Mods for BIg Mo*

Looking good there Dennis. Really good! Are you considering making the Flying Sub bay open? 

I hope you do the full 5 color paint job, it really makes a big difference. Since your sail doors are separate, you could paint them off the sail in the darker grey violet without the grief of masking. May I also suggest you make a new deck insert for the hatches for this same reason? 

Enjoying this!! P.


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## subtoair

Thanks for the complements on my big mo build paul.I would like to make the flying sub doors open,and close.It would take a lot of work but it would be really cool!Have you, or know of anyone that made that happen? I want to apply your 5 step paint on this model for sure,I have gone this far,and want to do the paint right.Anyway I enjoyed you great pictures of your 8 windrow seaview on your 1/350 build ! To me thats what the 8 windrow bow should look like,streamline!! This has been a fun and interesting project.Dennis


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## Bay7

This is a fascinating thread for a subject I know little about being more of a Roddenberry fan opposed to Allen - here come the puns (sorry).

I jumped ship when the large Enterprise model I wanted was out of stock and the 8 window version was on sale and quite cheap.

Being a casual viewer of Voyage, I feel like i've jumped in at the deep end and now I'm drowning in details! As Super 7 said in his other thread, A google search yields few results (although I did find this thread bubbling up to the surface on a google search)

I can see that there are flaws in these kits as I can see them being corrected but I'm not sure what issue is being corrected and why - is there a quick list of stuff that needs to be done so I don't have to wade through pic-heavy threads?

As I say, I've got the eight window(w) version but i'd like to convert it to the 4 window version - Super7 said that there are things about the 8w version that are better than the 4w - as of yet, I don't know enough about the differences between the different sized miniatures to worry about where and what needs to be changed.

So really, I'm looking for a quick and dirty list of the glaringly obvious stuff that needs to be changed and what better place to ask  ?

Great work and Super 7's light Gel info (in his other thread) should be standard reading for anyone attempting to light a pre-neon / fluorescent era illuminated model!

Many thanks,

Steve


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## subtoair

Bay7, I was in thinking the as you were a while back.I wanted to build a 4 windrow seaview,and did not want not to pay a lot for expenise kit to work on.I looked on ebay and found the 4 windrow versons were listed but at a large price of 299.00.Then I thought about buying the 8 windrow seaview and converting it to the 4 windrow verson also.Before I did that I browsed the internet and found the 4 windrow model that a hobby shop had for $117.00 in the east coast.Anyway I would say to fire up the internet and search more for the 4 windrow model and build the 8 windrow model as it is.The 8 windrow seaview, is pretty darn close to the real model as it is.The head might need to be narrowed down,on the sides toward the top.The windrows need a little work also,to look more like the real model. But in general the model is a lot more accurate then the 4 windrow verson. But since you brought the 8 wndrow already,and want to convert it over,you will have to do these things.
Scratch build a flying sub bay area under the nose belly.
The nose would have to be narrowed toward the top.
sonar domes then would have to be built for the sides of the nose.The windrows would then be filed,and new 4 windrows added.The front of the deck needs to be shorten a little.The sail looks pretty close.the four sail windrows on the front top of the sail would need to be filled. The rest of the changes would be found on my build in this thread.Don,t get me wrong this converson can be done,with a little more work,than buying the 4 windrow verson,.Im going to build my 8 windrow model,after I get this project done,and just might build it out of the box as it is.I might add my hull sections to give the hull a little more length, around a inch or so.Paul is really up on the 8 windrow seaview,and would also be a good source of imformation on the movie seaview. Hope this helps out a little steve.If you have anymore questions,please let me know. Thanks Dennis.


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## subtoair

Well I decided to add another 1/2 inch of length to the main hull.This brings out the model to 41 inches long.Measurements off of pictures of the 17 foot seaview brought me to this length.It has been a while since I posted pictures hope it works.


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## subtoair

It seems like I always want to tweek on the model.I cut down the top sides of the head, to blend into a even flow from the main hull over the top of the nose.This made the main body look a little bigger.


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## subtoair

After the cut down of the nose,The nose has a cleaner look.As you can see by the picture,the light from the windrow,shines from the main hull over the top side of the nose level and straight across over the nose.When I received the model the head had a slight build up height on this area.By cutting this down,it looks like in the 8 windrow 17 foot model on a close up on the surface.(Check out on the bw videos)The second year they added the sonar domes,which made the head a little wider and longer.but had that area on top the same.


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## subtoair

A little different shot.


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## subtoair

To all you viewers,I have not posted any pictures for awhile,I wanted to get more done on the Seaview,to show more progress. With work every day,it has been a off and on progress on the model.I will post some more pictures soon.I really appreciate the fine complements that you viewers have given me.until next time. Dennis


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## subtoair

It has been somewhat busy here in my shop,but I did get a few more pictures taken.The moebius front manta ray fins seem to curve to much down,to get the correct curve,body puddy was added to the top of the tip of the fin.I then sanded the bottom tip of the fin up a little more.This made a gentle slope to the top of the fins.This also made the front fins look more like a shark fin.I,ll try and post a few more pictures.


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## subtoair

The port side of the boat.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

After the fins have been shaped and sanded,a coat of gray sanding primer on top,and white primer on bottom.was applied.This gave me a idea of what the fins look like with paint added later.This primer is just temporary,and will be sanded down later,to smooth out the hull.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Another photo of the front nose with the sloped down fin.


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## subtoair

Well its be awhile that I had anytime to work on the large moebius seaview.I started to work on the top deck.I sanded the deck sides down to were they were a little thinner.I left the front and back sides a little thicker,to make it look like the raised ballast plating on the 17 foot seaview deck.The front of the deck was contoured to fit the lower hull,The ballast slots were made to look like the front slots used on the 17 footer. I then cut out all of the ballast slot holes by using a dremal tool,to cut out the slots. Small files were then used to clean up the ballast slots.This took awhile,but they cleaned up good.Then gray primer was sprayed to the sides,to fill all of the scratches.


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## subtoair

The stock hatches did not look right to me,so new hatches were made to look more like the real thing.A rubber mold was then made to make extra hatches.


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## subtoair

New hatch.


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## subtoair

It was now time to add the top deck plating,(front of sail plate,rear missile hatches) The top of the deck were the plates were to be installed,was cleaned up so the plates would be level with the sides of the deck.Since the deck was made longer,along with the main hull,I had a choice to make the missile payload from 20 missiles to 22 .Or add a escape hatch behind the sail.I went with adding the rear hatch like on the eight footer,because 20 missile silos were standard on the 17 foot seaview, and I did not want to change that.3 escape hatches made more sense on a atomic sub,then just two.


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## subtoair

Added hatch.


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## subtoair

New designed hatch.


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## subtoair

Top deck in gray primer.


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## Fernando Mureb

Fantastic job! You have been doing an extreme (well done) makeup. :thumbsup:

I am not a submarine expert, so I'm sorry if this question sounds silly, but wouldn't it be more logical if the opening of the hatches were facing the safety rails?


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## solex227

Wow Someone finally stepped up and took this one on! I have been working on my own for a while now but your doing a better job over all. You really captured the look of the 17 footer...I am looking forwards to the finished product...

Solex227


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## subtoair

Hi guys,Sorry it toke me so long to put on new post, just so many irons in the fire as they say.Thank you for the fine complements on this seaview build,solex 227 and fernando mureb.Its been a longer build than I thought,but as you know its just a labor of love for this ship!You are right fernando mureb,to me to the hatches made more since facing towards the rear of the ship.I had to check a couple of times,to make sure this is the way the studio miniatures had them,and they did.Also the missile hatches are built on top of the hull,which I think would increase nose when running underwater,but again I built her the way the fox props were built.At the time when the tv show was running, from 1964 to 1968? we just started to make the new boomers then.our missile carrier subs.All of the missile hatches on the real subs were at that time were flush with the top of the deck, to get away with the underwater sound.The only reason that I can think of why fox designed the raised hatches,was so people could see them better on the old black and white tvs made at that time. Im going and add some more detailing to the top deck,like torpedo loading hatches etc.I dont know for sure yet but I was thinking of making a rubber mold to capture all of this detail,so I have a spare deck on hand in case the orginal one gets damaged in the water. same with the main hull.I will post more pictures of the build soon.Hopefully I will post sooner next time. Untell later.


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## subtoair

I should have backed up a little on the modifications of the top deck,I had to change the rear deck as it should have more of a less curve on it.I cut the ballast slots,and moved them on a slope up in the rear.I then filled the cuts with filler.Sanded it smooth,and blended in more of a longer curve to the bottom of the rear hull,like on the 17 footer.


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## subtoair

Sanded area.


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## gareee

Probably not what you want to hear, but if you look at the slots, all are parallel with the deck line. Your new ones are at an angle. Are they slanted like that on the model you are replicating?


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## subtoair

The rear of the 17 footer is what I was going by. This was the only easy way that could be done without a major reconstruction.I wanted the bottom of the deck to curve like the 17 footer.The ballast slots on the moebius,should also be slanted ahead a little more,but like super 7 said then it would be easier to build a complete new deck, a lot more work that I wanted to do right now.Anyway the moebius ballast slots are pretty close,so I just left them.


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## subtoair

I decided to make a casting of the deck.as the orginal one was extended 3 times,and brass rod was also glued inside the deck. I thought that when I put the deck in the water the seams would start to show.Were a one piece fiberglass deck would be better.Epoxy was applied inside the slots so the rubber molding material would not stick to the slots.Some detailing was added to give the deck a little more interesting.


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## subtoair

slots with epoxy applied.


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## subtoair

Front of deck.


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## subtoair

Rear of deck.


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## subtoair

Well a choice had to be made,on what deck materials to use in the water.Like I said a while back,I lengthen the deck three times.There were to be 6 seams on the deck that I filled.I also used brass square tubing that was glued to the underside of the deck.When running in the water I was scared that the deck would show signs of separation between the brass and plastic used in the deck.So I decided to make a mold. If I knew on how long to make the deck in the first place, A one 2 inch long extension is what all I needed.And since the complete deck would be made out of the same material (plastic) there would be no problems with running the deck in the water.So I decided to make a rubber mold to build a one piece deck.The first picture shows the mold and plug deck laying on the side.


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## subtoair

Start of layup,by brushing in a layer of gray gel-cote in the mold.


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## subtoair

New fiberglass deck pulled from mold.


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## subtoair

This shot shows the orginal deck with the new deck laying upside down.The new deck was layed up with fiberglass cloth and carbon fiber.


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## subtoair

Photo of detail on rear of deck.


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## subtoair

Picture of front of deck.


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## subtoair

This photo is kind of dark,but shows it on main hull.


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## gareee

Wow, there is serious dedication! Nice job!


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## Fernando Mureb

I have to admire these guys who does not stop at any obstacle! The man made ​​a new deck as if he was exchanging a Led!


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## solex227

Yes that is much better wow! +1 what Fernado said that is really nice...


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## subtoair

Thanks guys, for the nice complements on the new deck! Like I said before, its kind of a labor of love for the ship.I will be working on the model, off and on from now on,and will try and post more pictures when I get more done.


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## gareee

Same here with my "metallic ice blue" movie seaview. its a lobor of love.

If I had a place to run her, I'd love to have done a rc version, but my pond is only 12x12.

Too bad no one ever did a rc version of the smaller scale sub.


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## solex227

Subtoair 

Mind If I PM you would like to pick your brain on a few things on this subject? :thumbsup:

Solex227


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## subtoair

That will be fine solex 227 I will be glad to talk to anyone that has questions.


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## solex227

subtoair said:


> That will be fine solex 227 I will be glad to talk to anyone that has questions.


thanks PM sent:thumbsup:


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## subtoair

I might have messed some thing up on the pm that I sent you yesterday ,solex227 I will post it here,in case other people want a idea of the dia of the search light is.Mine came out to a hole dia of 7/16 with a rim thickness around 1/16 thick.I ended up turning down a piece of round brass tubing on a lathe.after I tried to fine different plastic tubes,that really did not look right.I then applied body filler to blend in the the housing.I also raised the light around 1/25 higher on the front fin.I hope this helps,if you do run struck in finding a right size tube for the light housing.I could always make a small rubber mold of just the the search light,and then send you a casting to you,then you would just have to graft it on your nose.I would be glad to help any way that I can.


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## solex227

subtoair said:


> I might have messed some thing up on the pm that I sent you yesterday ,solex227 I will post it here,in case other people want a idea of the dia of the search light is.Mine came out to a hole dia of 7/16 with a rim thickness around 1/16 thick.I ended up turning down a piece of round brass tubing on a lathe.after I tried to fine different plastic tubes,that really did not look right.I then applied body filler to blend in the the housing.I also raised the light around 1/25 higher on the front fin.I hope this helps,if you do run struck in finding a right size tube for the light housing.I could always make a small rubber mold of just the the search light,and then send you a casting to you,then you would just have to graft it on your nose.I would be glad to help any way that I can.


thanks! subtoair I will see if I can dig up something first. If not Ill pm you by Wednesday.:thumbsup:
thanks again


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## subtoair

A while back I had a picture of the sail were I sanded off the original hatches that were molded on the sail.I made a new hatch that looked more like the 17 foot seaview sail.Then a rubber mold was made to make 4 copies.These pictures were show on my early post.Now it was time to cut off the sail planes.This picture shows were I cut off the planes at the marked areas on the diving planes.


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## subtoair

Sawing off the diving planes


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Marking areas, to drill out the holes to install 1/8 brass bushings.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

To make sure the diving planes were to be level top and front,a brass rod was inserted to see if the brass rod was even in brass bushings.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Body filler was then added to the cut seams, to fill out these areas.Gray primer was then sprayed on and,sanded smooth.


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## subtoair

The new resin doors were glued into the areas,as seen in the original 17 foot picture.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

The now completed primed sail,sitting on the deck.


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## subtoair




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## gareee

Since I just built mine up a week or so ago, I know what you had to deal with. This looks like perfection! I was considering adding rotating sail planes, but I was too concerned about light leak, and I didn't recall ever seeing them tilt in the movie or series, so I passed on the idea.

Now I'm rethinking that decision. I think I hate you.


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## subtoair

By all means, don,t cut the diving planes if you are just building a display model,its not worth the extra work,Gereee. I cut mine in case I wanted to make a working rc model. If I was building a display piece like yours I would also leave them solid! I saw your latest post and your seaview looks just super!! I really like the picture of the model outside of the house, or cabin ,with the american flag in the back ground! makes me wish that I would have built the eight windrow seaview now.Please post more pictures as you get her built.


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## gareee

Thanks! Shes much further along now, almost complete except a custom base.


I ran into a few fits towards the end, which I'll detail in my thread.

I'd also suggest replacing the front windows with some thin cuts from a plastic package.. even though the windows are better than the ones from the 4 window version, you still get a LOT of distortion. Things I could see without the windows installed are almost impossible to see now.

I ALMOST did that, but in haste forgot to actually look at what the stock windows actually looked like before glueing them in.

It still looks good, but would have looked much better with thinner replacement windows.

I have the 4 window version as well. and seeing your temps me to keep her and build her up as well, but when I look at both side by side in other's build pics, the 8 window version just jumps out to me at "the" seaview.

I'm planning on rewatching the series again now, so I might have a change of mind once I watch everything all over again.

If I had somewhere I could run an RC version, I'd LOVE to build one up, but there's just no where nearby I could run her at all. I'd also be concerned that chlorinated water would ruin the model as well.


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## solex227

Subtoair Beautiful work!:thumbsup: Pm you


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## subtoair

*seaview mods*

Solex227 I tried to pm you but for some reason it did not go thru.I will lay you up a search light housing over the weekend,no problem.You don,t owe me anything,just glad to help out a fellow seaview fan.I will need your address on were to send the part to.you can pm me this,as it seem i can get your pms,or use my email address [email protected] what ever works the best for you. Dennis


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## solex227

:thumbsup: 

Thank you email sent 

Solex227


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## subtoair

I decided to make a mold for a new one piece sail. It would have been hard to put leds in the navigation light areas as it was a tight fit between the sail wall and the bridge area.I ground out the inside of the sail so it would be easier to insert the leds later after the molds were made.The first picture shows the new rubber mold being made. It had to be a two piece mold,as the center of the sail had to be hollow like the original part.A outside rubber mold was first made,then a rubber center was poured in around the brass insert.The first picture shows this process.The other photos shows the new one piece sail.


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## subtoair

Soon I will show how the diving plane molds were made,incase the viewers would like to build there own.


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## gareee

Yeah, getting leds in there was a real pain, having just done it. Plus you end up with light leak on the deck as well.

I think 2mm fiber optics would probably be the best way to go. If you can back the stock light pars with some tinted clear plastic, you could use the same clear led as a source.


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## solex227

Getting better By the post Subtoair! and thank you again for the help and kind words! :thumbsup:


Solex227


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## subtoair

Awhile back I was going to show you on how to make rubber molds to make replacement parts for models.I first make a box.The top and bottom of the mold box is made out of 1/25 thick plywood.This is to help with the mold holding its shape after the mold is made.I take the bottom of the plywood base and build up the bottom of the mold with clean clay.Usually I build the clay around 1/2 inch thick,on the bottom.I then put the part in the clay(in this case the sail diving planes) The clay is built up half way to the parts.I then take heavy strong cardboard,and build a strong square box around the bottom mold box.I then mix up silicone rubber,and carefully pour in the silicone.One picture shows on how I remove the air bubbles,by using a special pump to do this.( in most cases you can just pour in the silicone carefully)The other pictures show the progress of the mold build.


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## subtoair

[/UR
Removing the air bubbles from the mixed rubber


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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair

The bottom half of the mold is done.You have to use a silicone spray on the parts and rubber before you pour the top half of the mold.This is to keep the silicone from sticking to each other.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

The molds are now pulled apart.Then brass rods are put into there slots.The molds are the put together by using rubber bands,or clamps.Resin is poured into the molds.New sail planes with brass rods are now made and pulled out when dry.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Thinking that I may want to run this model in the water,and hearing on how the plastic sail scopes were fragile when handling the model,I decided to build the two scopes and caption from brass.I turned these parts on a lathe.I wanted the scopes to move up and down.I also made the caption longer,in case I wanted to use them as switches to turn the receiver off and on.New holes were drilled into the top of the sail so brass bushings could be installed.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## solex227

Ok So far this is looking to be come the ultimate Seaview build ! Question to remove the bubbles from your Rubber compound what did you do? did you mix and place in a vacuum?

Solex227


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## gareee

I was wondering about the scopes on the various underwater models. We just started watching the series after the movie, and you don't see any topsail scopes, radar dish or anything at all on the top, which seems odd.

I wonder if they were breaking, and they just didn't bother repairing them for filming a few scenes?

I was kind of wishing they done the kit's out of something more durable.. I've broken the radar dish off twice already, and almost broke a scope in half the other way when moving her outdoors for shooting more progress pics.

I'm concerned about the longevity of the topsail parts over time.


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## subtoair

Hi guys,Years back I brought a new vacuum machine from a place in the east coast. If I remember right it was a medical supply store.I had built large molds(and still do) to suck out the air in the rubber.It also is meant to draw air from clear resin parts,and works great for super clear castings.The machine must weight around 150 pounds or so,and I leave it in one area of the shop at all times,because of the weight.Garee your seaview build looks great! I built the brass parts because on what you said in one of your post,on how easy they are to break.I thinking on building a radar screen,by using brass rod,for the shaft,and cast the screen with resin with ground fiberglass mixed in.I have done this before and it makes for a lot stronger part.Anyway I will post more pictures as I get more done.


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## gareee

Thanks! I'm still not sure I'm 100% in love with the paint job. the metallics have odd visual properties. In a well lit room, I love it. At night however, since the blue no longer pics up much light, I see what looks like a higher contrast between the bottom white hull, and the top.

The only solution I can think of is just adding a ceiling track light for night viewing. the leds I used are the same as some I put in dragon tea lights 5 years ago, and those are on 24/7. My seaview will be the same way.

I'm trying to figure out now how to do a diving bell, using one of the leds that extend from the bottom.

I'm pretty sure the 4 window kit comes with a mini sub and diving bell, but I hate to cannibalize that kit for this one.

The more I'm looking at pics again of the 4 window tv version, the more I think, I'll keep the old version, and build her up as well the same way.

If more of the control room parts had been molded clear, I'm sure I would have tackled it sooner.


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## starseeker

subtoair, I love watching this build. She's a Beauty!
Gareee, the diving bell that comes with the kit is worthless, too small and soft detail. With a steady hand and a willingness to risk blindness, at least in your dominant eye, actually the easiest thing about the entire 1/128 build is scratch-building a new diving bell. Use Plastruct half domes for the sphere or vac form your own. A couple little bits of wire and you're pretty much done.

http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/j...le Model Build/IMG_0028.jpg.html?sort=6&o=54

http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/j... Scale Model Build/0344.jpg.html?sort=6&o=72

Lighting it is tricky. I used a single led for the source and heat stretched and epoxied fibre optic for the angled spotlights. The power comes down the winch and the oxygen cables.

http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/j...le Model Build/IMG_0036.jpg.html?sort=6&o=53


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## subtoair

Starseeker,thank you for the nice words on my Seaview build.Your Seaview build is second to none,a fantastic job on the Seaview,diving bell,and flying sub!!!! I agree on the diving bell,if possible,a complete rebuild would be the best way to go.You really did a great job,and a lot of work,and detail on your diving bell,with the port hole bolts and hatches,etc.Im going to try and build a new one myself,if I get the time later on.I built the diving bell years back that went with my 80 inch long seaview.That one was quit a bit bigger than this one on the moebius.I used a fishing bobber,for the main body,and than made a mold after all the detail was added.It turned out pretty good.


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## gareee

Since I have limited access to craft items in my area, I've been looking for a donor item for a custom diving bell.

One thing I came up with lat night was using either led "spotlight" book readers or some of those cheap 9 led flashlights with a water pattern scrim inside to simulate the light refracting down through the water. I did a few tests of it last nght, and it does make the metallic color of mine look better in the evening.

Starseeker, that diving bell is just amazing! Do you have a link to your build thread?


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## tmont007

Help! Voodoofx lighting kit for Moebius 4 window Seaview... anybody try this?


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## subtoair

I finally got to getting back to do a little work on the seaview.The rear tubes were next on the list.This first picture shows on what the orginal tube looks like on the rear of the stearn.I toke pictures with a new camera,so the first few pictures might be a little big,I will correct the size after these three pictures.Im also interested in the voodoofx lighting kit,


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## subtoair

This picture shows the new shaped rear tube.I had a lathe to turn new tubes,but decided to shape them by hand,because not everyone has a lathe,in their shop.In this picture the top deck has slide to the back of the hull,when I toke this picture.It does fit snug to the hull when slid forward.


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## subtoair

This shot shows the orginal tube with the new design.Tomorrow I will show you viewers on how I did this.This picture is not the best,with the tape still on it.and bad lighting.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Well lets see on how I can explain on how to streamline the rear seaview tubes without using a lathe.First I wanted to carefully cut down the rear of the tubes,to give them more of a down angle.I glued the tube halves together This is a very rough drawing of what I did.I used 80 grit sandpaper on a small wooden block,to cut down the rear of the housing.Take your time and be sure to go around the tubes in circles,to get them even.I then put body filler,around the center of the tubes.This step built up the center lines,to help with the gentle slopes of the tubes.I carefully sanded around the tubes with 80 grit sandpaper,so they would be cut even.Then 220 grit sandpaper was used to smooth out the dips and high spots on the tubes.Primer was then sprayed on the tubes.


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## subtoair

This shot shows on how I add around 1/25 of a inch of plastic tube to the rear of the tubes.Body filler was then applied around the extensions.This helped to give the tubes a slight length.


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## subtoair

By looking at the pictures of the seaview that paul had built,the fins needed to be extended out.I used plastic to do this.Then body filler was added,and smooth out.as you can see from the top view,that the tubes have a better flow with the body filler added.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Here red primer was applied,to fill in low spots.I them primed them with gray primer,which makes them look a lot better.


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## subtoair




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## solex227

Subtoair 

The tubes look great! And I think you found the perfect solution to the tubes to look more like the actual 17/8 footer . So I have a question on the tubes and contouring. I was wondering about how far forward of the rear of the tube edge would you start to tapper ? I guesstimate about a 1" with the added .25 ring to the rear edge... Also could you point out a source for tubing this large.. Tubing after 5/8 od becomes hard to find. .. after several searches I couldn't find anything I could use that was sensible. again great build ! using a few of your tip on my own build..watching close.:thumbsup:

thanks 

Solex227


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## subtoair

Thanks Solex 227 for the nice words on my build.I toke a few more pictures a few minutes agn this drawing it will show were I started to fill in the body filler on the tube.If you look down on the tube you will see the contour of the tube flattens out( half way towards the rear of the water intakes) I had to sand my intakes off,to get a nice even contour of the body filler.You you want to keep the same water intakes,you will have to pour a little windrow silicone over the intakes to capture there design.Im going to make new working intakes for mine later since Im going rc.The rear extension tube was made from a strip of 1/16 plastic.I carefully wrapped this around a small tube to get the contour.I will post more pictures in a few minutes.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Well boys and girls,its been a long road,etc etc Anyway I finally getting the main seaview hull completed and close to making a mold for my Rc hull. But before that last step of molding,I wanted to add a little bit of detail to the hull.I decided to add scribe in bottom food holes to the bottom of the hull.I placed these on the bottom of the side hull fins.This way if I decide to cut them out,you will not see them from the side view of the boat.Or I can just leave them scribed in and not cut them out.The picture shows how I used the template .I did change the scribing plate later on.to make more even cleaner holes.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair

The mini sub or diving bell doors were also cut out,so I can mold them separate.This way if I decided to make them workable later on.they would be all ready cut out.I made the doors a little wider,and more to scale with the 17 foot seaview.I always had this wild idea of seeing a model of the seaview in a lake of clear water,and lowering the diving bell by RC.I do have a underwater camera,so this would be pretty cool to see that on a video.As they say food for thought.


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## subtoair

I had a beautifull drawing of the 17 foot seaview from the late george lynch a very great artist,that loved the seaview.He drew up a set of plans with all the detailing on the seaview,if this boat was real.Torpedo tubes were on his plans,so I scribed in the doors on the locations he drew out.There were four torpedo tubes on the stearn.one tube on each side of the stearn,on which I scribed in.Two more torpedo tubes between the two rear fins,to be scribed in later.The front tubes will have to be made to shoot out the bottom of the front of the boat like in the show.Without blowing up the flying sub! I have a idea on how to do this,but Im not sure yet.The LA class boats were made to launch out from the sides, outwards.So maybe? well we see.Panel lines would really add also.This could be lightly scribed in,Im not sure yet if I will do this.


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## subtoair

Hi Guys, I thought that I would let you know that I am still here! It has been a year since my last post.There have been a lot going on around here,so I have been taken away from the Seaview project.I plan on getting back to it this fall,so I will post more updates when they happen.Hope you guys are still interested? Untell later.


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## WOI

When you lengthened the hull of the Seaview by 1/25 inch,what was the length
and the width were the 2 special inserts you made were in millimetres,and what was the thickness those 2 inserts for it?


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## Trek Ace

Is this a babelfish translation?


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## subtoair

There was a lot of these spacer use on the hull.But the total length with the spacers installed around was 2 inches,this brought the plug to the correct length, of 41 inches long.to make a mold from. Then a new one piece hull was made.Most of this information is listed in this form. The spacer was about !/8 inch thick,the same as the moebius plastic hull. Hopes this helps.


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## Trek Ace

I love this thread, Dennis.

I sure wish that you still offered that 80-inch kit. It was dumb of me not to buy one back when I originally bought the refit kit.


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## WOI

Do you mean 1/8 inch long,how long is that in millimetres?


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## Richard Baker

1/8" = 3.175mm


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## WOI

Don't mean to sound like a novice what is 1/25 of an inch is in
miilimeters?

I should have asked the question a lot better,my bad.


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## Trek Ace

1 inch = 25.4mm.

So, for all practical purposes, 1/25" = 1mm.


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## subtoair

*larger moebius seaview modifactions*

I started on making new water intakes today,for the moebius rear tubes. When I get more done i will post pictures.The 80 inch Seaview is still here, Trek Ace.Also thanks for figuring out the sizing for the gentlemen with the different lengths of the hull. untell later.


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## WOI

Thank you,that's all I need to know.


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## taneal1

*Dennis (or anyone else that knows...):*

Hello Dennis, 

GREAT JOB on the BIG Seaview!

I've followed your build with great interest as I'm just starting the 1/128th 8-window movie version. My info is that only the nose section and sail were changed from the 4-window that you are doing, so the two hull diameters should match.

All the plans that I've seen indicate a 32' diameter for the full-size Seaview. 

32'*12=384" and 384/128=3.0" 

However, my hull outer diameter measures less than the 3.0" required to match the 128th scale.

You've most likely measured your hull diameter already...what did you come up with?

Thanks to anyone who responds,

Tom


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## subtoair

*larger moebius seaview modifications*

Most of the nuclear suds built in the 1960s used 32 foot dia hulls,as far as I know,but I could be wrong. If that is the case, that was the size used by the prop makers,at fox for the Seaview plans. My hull size on the moebius Seaview,(both the 4 windrow and 8 windrow) uses the same dia main hull. Which is a little larger than 2 3/4 or a little smaller than 2 7/8.On the new Seaview that I made I widen the dia to 3 1/8. When I viewed the 17 footer sitting on its side,the main hull just looked larger to me.Also when viewed from the top down on the Moebius model,the main hull looked a little to narrow. I could be wrong on this,but thats my two cents.I got a little more done on the rear water intakes on my spare time today. Kind of a pain to make,but once done they should add more detail to the finished model. later.


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## taneal1

*Larger moebius beam*

Hello Dennis,

Thanks for your info!



subtoair said:


> Most of the nuclear subs built in the 1960s used 32 foot dia hulls,as far as I know,but I could be wrong.


That thought had occurred to me also, so I looked it up. From the first SSBN in 1957 (George Washington), until the Ohio class in 1976, 5 of the 6 classes had a beam of 33 feet. So they were darn close.



> My hull size on the moebius Seaview,(both the 4 windrow and 8 windrow) uses the same dia main hull. Which is a little larger than 2 3/4 or a little smaller than 2 7/8.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks -- that's exactly the info I needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I viewed the 17 footer sitting on its side,the main hull just looked larger to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Was this when David Merriman was doing the restoration? To your knowledge, has he ever written in detail regarding the restoration? That would be quite an interesting feature!
> 
> Tom
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


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## subtoair

Hi Tom, I saw the 17foot Seaview in movie world in California in 1977.I took pictures,but somehow they got lost thru the years.Anyway the main hull was very large with the nose. David Merriman restoration pictures are also included with the Moebius Seaview kit. A very good source for modeling.There are also of course a lot of prop pictures on the web. This is what I used for detailing.untell later. Dennis


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## subtoair

[/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG] Today I had a little time early in the morning and evening to get back to the Seaview project. First I sanded the insides were the tubes that mates with the hull. I wanted to bring the tubes closer to the rear of the keel,like the 17 footer. This brings out the front of the tubes,and the rears in. In doing this after sanding,the tubes now look smaller,like the rear 17 footer. I still have some more sanding to clean things up,but its getting closer. Also there are a few pictures of the new water intakes,that I made.By the pictures you can not tell but they are the same size of the water intakes that are molded in the stock Moebius tubes. I have to do a lot of sanding to make a nice flush look.Also I have to make square holes on the sides of the tubes so they can be easy inserted in there locations. One last picture is the flying sub roller doors that I made a year ago.They do roll up and down,with a complete flying sub interior,like on the set. I never did post the pictures because,a year ago another project,came into play. Anyway I finally got a little more done. Untell later.


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## subtoair

I see the pictures did not load I will try again!


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## subtoair

Well guys,I found out that I had to use photobucket.No problem my son a year or so ago give me instructions on how to use them,and it worked great!But now that I tried to do the same thing,I found out that they changed the format! So now I have to wait untell Sunday when my son come up and helps me with the new format. I cant understand when something works so good,they always want to mess with it! Anyway sorry about this,and I will get back to you guys.


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## subtoair




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## solex227

Man really looking good.. I was wondering when this thread would breath life again..


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## subtoair

*large moebius seaview*

Thank you for the nice complement on my project Solex 227. It is good to be back on this build.I have been having quit a few problems with trying to get on hobby talk,the last week or so.When I try and type in my pass words,Firefox won,t let me do it.So I have to use enternet explorer which is really slow,but will get me there. My son posted the pictures for me last week,and now will teach me on how to do it. I have been working on the rear tubes,and now I am ready to make the molds.I will try to post more pictures soon. I want to get the flying sub door assembly pictures posted,so you guys can see on how I did this. Dennis


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## taneal1

GREAT job on the propulsion tube water intakes!

How did you make the Master?

Tom


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## subtoair

*large seaview*

The water intakes were made by carefully making one single grill.It took a lot of time to make just that one piece. I then made a rubber mold to make 12 grill sections. The a one piece mold of all the 12 sections glued together. Since the pictures that I posted a few weeks back I changed the design around 3 times.I had some really good closeup pictures of the 17 footer grill section,that I had,so that really helped.I will try to post a few pictures soon. Dennis


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## taneal1

Very interesting. Looking forward to seeing your pictures!

What material did you use to make the master?

Thanks,

Tom


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## subtoair

*large seaview*

I made the grill from plastic. It toke a lot of time. The rear turbine tube molds are made,and new parts are pulled out.I will try and send some pictures soon.


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## subtoair

Pictures of the rear turbine tube molds.


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## subtoair

Still having trouble with posting pictures.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Well I got a couple of pictures of the rear turbine tubes molds that I made last week.Also one picture of the finished tube pulled out of the mold. I will post more later.


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## taneal1

subtoair said:


> Well I got a couple of pictures of the rear turbine tubes molds that I made last week.Also one picture of the finished tube pulled out of the mold. I will post more later.


Please do post more photos!

_Very nice work tapering the rear half of the turbine tubes_...what a difference that makes when I compare it to my out-of-the-box tube that actually flares out larger and larger all the way to the aft end. Compared with yours, the Moebius nacelle is downright ugly!

Tom


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## subtoair

*large seaview*

My son will post a few pictures soon.The pictures you will see is the looks between the new design tubes, and the boxed Moebius tubes.You will also see the new water intakes installed on the tubes.The rear end of the tubes go inward together at the rear,like ************* showed us in his pictures,of the 17 foot Seaview. This alone made the tubes look more streamline with the completed hull.I installed the rear brass rod for the diving planes in to the tubes before the tubes were grafted on to the main hull.This way I could run the model for RC control, if I wanted two in the future. Next will be to work on the top rear tail fins. More to come.


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## subtoair




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## taneal1

REALLY FINE WORK there Dennis.

Did you modify the original tubes by replacing the last one-third or so with lathe-turned acrylic tubing as P.L. did?

Also, it APPEARS that you may have built up the underside of the tubes just forward of the water intakes...

Thanks for sharing photos and techniques!

Tom


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## subtoair

Thank you for the nice words Tanecal1.What I did was carefully hand sanded the rear half of the rear tubes down to a smaller dia. I also added a little more length to the rear.Some body puddy was added to the center of the tubes,to give them a slimline curve. Anyone can do this with the stock Moebius tubes,to make them look better. In some of my early posts I show more on how this can be done.


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## subtoair

Here are a few pictures of the rear top fin housing.Because the main hull was made bigger,the rear tail fin rear housing was also made a little larger by using body putty.The rear tail section was then carefully sanded down to the right shape.Then primed and sanded. I followed some of the old pictures of the 17 foot Seaview that I had taken from Movie World in LA that I had taken in 1977.


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## WOI

I have been monitoring your progress on your work on the TV version of 
the Seaview (the Popular Version)that you are building,you really are
putting your soul into it.I have a copy of the large Moebius TV Seaview
myself and I have been closely studying the techniques you are using
to enhance it so that I can use those tips to make my kit accurate to
the 17 footer herself.


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## taneal1

*Duplicate post - disregard...*

Duplicate post - disregard...

Does anyone know how to delete this post?


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## taneal1

*Limber Holes: Cut them out, or use photoetch?*

*Back in message 59 SubtoAir said:* I sanded the deck sides down to were they were a little thinner. I left the front and back sides a little thicker,to make it look like the raised ballast plating on the 17 foot seaview deck.









Hello subtoair,

I like what you've done with the free floods. I'm doing the 8 Window movie version and trying to decide whether to do what you did to show the plating, or use photoetch for the floods. I cleaned the port bow slots with a dremel and filed them square. They look good as they are, but I'm still considering the photoetch.

Here is a screencap from the feature film:









The top edge of the plate containing the limber holes is visible just below the top of the deck as well as the forward and aft edges. Until I started researching I hadn't realized the 8-foot miniature had this feature as well as the 17-footer. 

I think it would be easier to use the photoetch than to sand straight lines at the top and sides of the holes, but OTOH I think that the brass photoetch plate containing the limber holes might look too thin compared with the visible thickness of the plate.

A third alternative would be to cut the entire plate free of the deck and glue it back into position, but with the edge of the plate raised the appropriate amount and a strip of styrene behind the lower edge to fill in the gap this would create in the lower edge of the deck.

Any opinions? Especially from those who have used the photoetch...

Tom


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## subtoair

Yes there was limber hole brass plates added on both the 17 footer and eight footer.The difference between the two was the brass strip on the 17 went all the way up on the side of the deck,the eight footer had the brass strip coming down from the top of the deck a little. I did mine because I wanted to change the rear limber holes a little. I had a great little company that made the limber hole plates front and back for me.They were made from 3/32 plastic,so they looked better than the thin photo etch material. The owner Matt Davis of (Laserfire Creations) laser cut them out with a computer program for me,and they were very nice.His email is [email protected] Tell him Dennis had a set around 2 years ago. Hope this helps!


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## taneal1

Thanks Dennis,

That is good info, and I will keep Matt Davis of (Laserfire Creations) address. If I don't end up using him for Seaview, I'm sure I'll use him for something else!

Tom


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Here is a picture of the two rear tail fins.I toke .020 thicket sheet plastic cut out the forms to thicken the middle of the fins and widen out the bottom of the foot of the fins. Once this was done I carefully sanded the forms with body puddy down to the correct contour that I wanted.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair




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## subtoair

It looked to me that the top of the fins toward the rear,had more of a gentle curve to the top of the fin.I added a small strip of plastic to the top of the fin and super glued it in place. Then sanded to more of a smooth curve.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

Wrong picture,Sorry


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## subtoair

I hope this is the right picture,were I removed the two rear light pods housings.


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## subtoair

New longer rear light housings were turned on a lathe,to match the 17 foot seaview. Then mounted on the rear tail fins.Body filler was added then sanded to blend in.


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## subtoair

After the sanding I checked the 17 footer pictures to see if I was closer to the correct length of the large 17 foot model. And it seemed to look better then what I had with the stock box moebius seaview.


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## WOI

Out of curiosity,does the Moebius Models 1/350 Seaview kit have the
same accurate length,details and dimensions as the 17 foot Popular
TV Production miniature?


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## subtoair

I have never seen the 1/350 scale Seaview in person. But from what I have seen,and read by ************* in his 1/350 build it is a lot closer and accurate than the larger Moebius Seaview. By looking at the pictures,the 1/350 model looks right on with the length. I would say the 1/350 looks closer to the 17 footer,than the larger Moebius seaview model,WOI Of course as you know you will have to make changes as Paul did, if you wanted to make it more accurate. With the extra work,you will have a very super looking model. For me it is a labor of love for this boat.


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## subtoair

Well it is late and I thought that I would try and post a few more pictures of the rear tail fin section that I have been working on. Here is a shot of the compete tail section all filled in and sanded.


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## subtoair

Next the sanded tail section was waxed and PVA was sprayed on the part.Then fiberglass was applied,and a new three piece mold was made.


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## subtoair

A brand new fiberglass rear tail section is made.It was made so electric wiring can be run up to the tail lights. All this mold work was done because I wanted to run the boat for RC. For display you can skip the mold building,and use the tail section that was made from plastic. To attach the rear unit on the hull two pins were glued to the front of the tail section.A strong magnet was installed to the rear of the tail section to hold it in place. Now it can be easy to remove if need to.


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## subtoair

With the rear tail fins done,rudders were next to be made. I toke the Moebius kit rudders and made them a little thinner, Brass rudder arms were made from brass.These were made because of the RC part. Then a rubber mold was made to make one piece parts.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

I know it has been a while since I last posted up dates on this form. Tell tell you the truth I finished the up graded Seaview last winter.To many other projects cam into play.But I am finally getting a little more caught up. The first picture you will see is the finished model,in a might I say a different type of scene. I will then post early pictures leading up to this current picture you see now.Hope you like it.


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## deboermodels




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## deboermodels

Screenshot taken from episode.


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## subtoair

All of the plastic railings were sanded off. Here I am installing new more scale brass hand rails to the rear deck.


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## subtoair

all of the hand rails,are installed.


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## subtoair

Adding some detail to the nose interior.Chairs and table were made from resin,and brass Flying sub hatch guard rail was made from brass.


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## subtoair




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## subtoair

When I made this sub I wanted moveable flying sub doors that open and close.A complete new rail system was designed for the doors that would slide inside them like on the show. I had to machine out all the new parts on a milling machine,and the add a new flying sub bay area like on the original 17 Seaview footer model. These two shots show the doors open and closed.


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## subtoair




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## WOI

Is that the same Moebius Models large Seaview that you had been working
on?Holy Macaroni!!


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## subtoair

Yes, it it the same one.

Dennis


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## subtoair

A few more shots of the nose interior detail.


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## subtoair




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