# Combining 2 Aurora MM starter tracks for a four lane



## Tjetstuff (Jan 2, 2011)

Anyone have experience with creating 2 Aurora lock and joiner starter tracks side by side with a single combined pull switch?


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I've toyed a little with L&J track, but for the most part it was making RR Xings, and making a 2X4 lane intersection. When you say starter track, you mean the one with the slot lock slide and the rollers for the back wheels?


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## Tjetstuff (Jan 2, 2011)

Yes, exactly.
L&J with the slide lock and rollers. I want to be able to release the slide for all four lanes at once.
P.S I've seen your four lane you tube video. Very cool.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I'm sure that modification is quite feasible. All my L&J is buried at the moment, and I believe I only have one of those tracks. I can tell you this much, though. If you get a bottle of Testors 3502 liquid cement, and cut up little chunks of a 9" curve and drop them in the bottle... 12-24 hours later you'll have goop. (basically liquid plastic) Save a little 3502 ( or have 2 bottles) to use as an activator for the track pieces you want to bond, and be patient. Goop takes a while to cure. When it does though, it's about as tough as the track itself. You can use the edge of a straight track to bridge the slides. Also, it will make the bond between the two tracks stronger if you drill holes along the mating edges of the tracks you're bonding.

Just make sure you have the whole game plan figured out before cutting anything. And only goop what needs to be gooped!!


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

slotcarman, does that work for other brands of track or just the L&J?


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## Tjetstuff (Jan 2, 2011)

Thanks for the tip
I've got about a dozen of the starter tracks from multiple different past track lot buys. I'll start gooping after Xmas.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Honestly jobob, I don't know. I've only made it once with L&J track, and still have most of the bottle. I do intend to make a few new custom RR Xing tracks for my next table, and try to use Tomy for the track, but until I have a solid layout, I can't make the crossings because the locations and angles of the RR tracks have to be exact.


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

Slotcarman, I remember Bill Hall saying the goop technique didn't work well for other plactics...just wondering if you've gooped other stuff?


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I have used it on styrene once, and it did take to it. However, it did cause problems. Styrene is so much easier to sand than goop. Trying to sand the two totally different materials together evenly proved tricky. Goop cures a lot harder than styrene.

I have also used it to do a repair on a PS2 steering wheel controller with good results. I guess it really is trial and error as far as plastic compatibility, and whether or not a shiny finish is required, and if anything needs to be done to the finish after it cures. 

I recall Bill experimenting in an attempt to make goop from TYCO and AW plastic with poor results. Basically, it all comes down to how the 3502 reacts with the material. There is a big difference between using a material for fabricating and repairing T Jet bodies, and bonding track sides together.


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

Slotcarman, I thought about trying to made a few custom track pieces cause Lifelike aint got them and goop for other thingss guess i just dive in and see what happens...Thanks for the info based on your experience:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

No reason one couldnt bond track with whatever the heck you want.

Like Joe said, there's a big difference between suffcient adhesion to pull a project off and fusion bonding or colorblending at the molecular level. Two very different requirments.

I'm certain that any type of physical bond would be more than adequate.


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

I get what you guys are saying...edge bonding vs. fusion bonding and blending are two different animals. Just like to do the best I can from the start instead of having to redo afterwards...as always, you guys here on HT are the best!!!


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

If you are in love with the starter tracks and just want to use them for their own nostalgic niftiness, I don't have any useful advice. 

But if the goal is just to have a fair, even start for all four lanes, a simpler solution is to plug the power supplies for all lanes into one basic inexpensive power strip (the kind with the usual rocker switch). 










Set up with the strip on the floor, and turned off. To start the race, the racemaster (or one of the drivers) presses the UP end of the strip's rocker switch with his foot, and all the tracks get juice immediately and simultaneously. Vroom.

-- D


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

To add to that idea, even better might be a power strip with a foot switch.

I have two of these under my track and it makes it simple to power up all the different 110vac feeds.


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## Tjetstuff (Jan 2, 2011)

I do like the nostalgia of the starter track--especially revving the motors on the spinners while the gate is closed.


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