# B & S- 5 hp model 92982-1122-01



## sboricic (Oct 10, 2009)

I have this old engine on a front tine rototiller. I'm not sure whether or not I have the spring attached correctly for the throttle. Also, I can move the throttle arm at the engine easily by hand, but when I use the lever, it doesn't move to adjust the hp. I attached a couple pictures. 
I couldn't find a manual for this engine online either.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Here is a link to the manual you need.Page 62 shows the linkage setup.Your spring looks to be stretched beyond it's working length.Don't forget to put the air cleaner screw back into the carb when running,since the passage to the the main jet is open without the screw in place.Hope this helps.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/01_270962SingleCylinderLHead.pdf


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

There is a clamp that holds the throttle cable on the flywheel shroud. This must be tight or the cable will slide not allowing the inner wire to move the throttle. Does the rest of the cable look good? Possibly the inner wire broken at some point. It looks to me like the spring is hooked right.


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## sboricic (Oct 10, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. The throttle cable is connected tightly. I used some Fluid Film to loosen it up. I agree...the spring does look worn out or stretched too much. I had it running this morning but it kept revving up and down and wouldn't stay at a steady hp. Then it would stall.
The last time I used it...about 4 years ago...the engine ran okay but when I put it to work, the tillers would stop moving. I looked at it yesterday and it is belt driven. The belt is in good shape.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

I would check the fuel pickup tube for debris on the screen and the diaphragm on the carb. This can cause running issues as you described. Sitting for 4 years can cause the diaphragm to dry out and distort.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

I agree with Rentahusband,the carb should be removed,cleaned and new diaphragm kit installed.Also drain the tank and check for rust flakes floating around,then fill with "FRESH" fuel.


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## sboricic (Oct 10, 2009)

I was able to get it running after cleaning the carb well, fresh gas and new spark plug. I installed a new belt as well. But, as I was using it the belt started smoking. Maybe I didn't have it on correctly. So...who can tell me which is the correct way? Hopefully the photos come up that I attached. Image 1640 is the way I had it on and is in engage. Image 1638 is not in engage.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

1638 seems like the proper way. It appears like the belt is on the opposite side of the idler pulley, between the two photos.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Is the idler pulley flat or V-shaped? That would tell you if the belt goes over or under the pulley.


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## sboricic (Oct 10, 2009)

The idle pulley is flat. If I put it on like image 1638, the belt won't be rubbing along the pulley though when engaged. I found this odd.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

My opinion is image 1638.The flat part of the belt is pushed on by the idler pulley to remove slack and tighten the belt.Let's wait and see if anyone can offer a better explanation.If that was a new belt,it certainly wasn't on the way it should have been.After looking again,1638 appears to be the engaged position,not 1640.If the belt will not tension routed the way 1638 shows,it may not be the correct length belt on there????


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

usmcgrunt said:


> My opinion is image 1638.The flat part of the belt is pushed on by the idler pulley to remove slack and tighten the belt.Let's wait and see if anyone can offer a better explanation.If that was a new belt,it certainly wasn't on the way it should have been.After looking again,1638 appears to be the engaged position,not 1640.If the belt will not tension routed the way 1638 shows,it may not be the correct length belt on there????


I looked at this several times and agree with usmcgrunt. The flat part of the pulley pushes against the belt, engaging the belt as in pic1638.


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