# New to model building, need advice.



## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

I recently thought about getting into models, horror models more specificly. I'm a huge horror fan, and own about 400 horror DVDs.

I've looked at a few sites on the web, and decided that the micro kits would probably be a good place to get my feet wet, so to speak.

Any advice on the best sites to buy micro horror models? Or stores that carry horror models. I live near Waco, and thought about checking at some craft shops like Micheals and Hobby Lobby. But I'm not sure if they really deal with horror stuff.

So far, ebay has had the best deals, but their shipping is so damn high. I know some of them are recasts, so I'm going to try not to purchase anything of that nature. But then again... money is tight so....

Also, do I need any special equipment for the micro models? Seems like a nice paint job would be pretty painstaking with the naked eye.

What type of paints do I need to buy? And what type of glue?

Anyway, thanks for any info or advice you guys can share.


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## wolfman66 (Feb 18, 2006)

Two places to start off with and highly recommend buying from is www.culttvman.com and www.megahobby.com .Mega hobby still carries the geometric micro monster line if your looking for those and think Steve at Culttvman does to.As for paints you can use acrylic paints like folkart or delta cermacoat wich can be bought at any local craft store.The glue to use CA type glue like zap a gap or jetset and you can find that at megahobby.Plus hang in there cause if there anything that missed one of the other members here will fill ya in on it.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks Wolf. Great info.

I've been doing alot of reading up here, and have noticed "seams" being mentioned several times.

How prevelent or pronounced are these typicly? And what is used to fill them.

Also, are there any easily found chains like Michael's or Hobby Lobby which carry horror model kits? Other than those two that is. I called Michael's, and the lady there gave me a simple "no" when I inquired about monster model kits.

Hobby lobby is closed on Sundays, so I'll call them tomorrow.

It's looking more and more like I'll have to order online. Which depresses me seeing as how I'm really looking forward to getting started soon. Not two or three weeks from now.

Thanks again.


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## wolfman66 (Feb 18, 2006)

Well to do the seams on kits use aves apoxie its works great and with steve culttvman and mega hobby you wont wait no two or three weeks for kits there fast as hell with shipping and also they send ya tracking numbers to.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

:thumbsup:

Where can I find 1/6 or 1/8 Jason or Michael Myers. 

That isn't a recast.


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## wolfman66 (Feb 18, 2006)

Texas Horror said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> Where can I find 1/6 or 1/8 Jason or Michael Myers.
> 
> That isn't a recast.


Im not a big fan of Jason or Michael myers kits but these guys over here will know where who and what makes these kits.Im also a member there two with the same name wolfman66 heres the link http://www.theclubhouse1.net


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Hi Texas Horror . Welcome to the warped world of Hobbytalk!!
There are plastic model kits available in most mainstream hobby shops that are cheap and easy to build and it's a great way to test the waters,so to speak. Polar lights, Monarch,and Moebius have horror figures available like Nosferatu,Dr.Jekyll, etc. Polar lights have been out of business for a while now, but they can still be found at reasonable prices. They are mainly 1/8 scale and well detailed. If you read through the forums, there's heaps of information to be gleaned from them, and you'll always find an answer to a question can be found here. You've definitely come to the right place!!
We also have a swap and sell section where you can look for secondhand unbuilt kits at prices that are very reasonable.
I hope you enjoy our great hobby but be warned- it's addictive!!
BTW, Polar lights did a nice Michael Myers kit in 1/8 scale. I don't think it's too hard to find. If you ask in the swap and sell you might find one at a good price.
Chris.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

regardless of how tempting the price......never buy recast!


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## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

Welcome to the board Texas Horror! Horror is one of my favorite subjects as well. As mentioned there are a lot of plastic kits out there as well as resin kits. 

Experiment with plastic model cement, just stay away from the child "low or no fumes" stuff. It does not stick. Some like to use acrylics, I still like to use enamels even though they are a little harder to clean up after. Acrylics can cleaned and thinned with straight up water. Soap too for cleaning. Sanding sticks are great for plastic kits. small metal files that can purchase online or hobby stores are a big plus as well for plastic kits.

When you start talking about doing resin kits you might be talking about investing in a dremel for flash removal. Some resin kits are perfectly cast while others have mega chunks that need to be removed prior to building. You'll spend forever and a day tring to remove some of that stuff with a file. Superglue works well for resin. Don't forget to thoroughly wash off the resin parts in in sink with detergent to get rid of the mold release or else those parts will not stick together for long and you are going to have problems with paint sticking.

Vinyl kits....I am not a huge fan of however I have not built any of them either so I guess I am not the best person to judge. You usually have to stuff them. Maybe even soak them in warm water to restore the original parts shape in some cases. They MUST be painted in acrylic. The enamel paint will eat the vinly (so I hear).

Do some digging on this board and you will find lots of great info regarding these types of kits. Don't let 3 weeks scare you. If you must build something immediately you can probably order something today and have it by the end of the week. Evil bay can be very hard to beat sometimes. It is hit and miss. Culltvman and Megahobby are great places to buy kits. You can't go wrong with these guys.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for all the great info Auroranut and Duckfink. That's exactly the type of stuff I need.

I've been combing through the threads, and have spent literally hours reading up on the differrent types of models and what not. And I've spent many more hours searching the net for the best deals. I don't think I've ever spent so much time researching something, (other than Fantasy Football). 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but it doesn't look as if there is a whole lot of horror models out there right now. And when I say horror, I mean mainstream type horror.

I've called every place I can think of in my immediate area, and there's nothing to be had. That is unless there is some little hole in the wall shop somewhere in Waco that isn't listed in the phone book. Michael's has nothing. Hobby Lobby has nothing. Wal-Mart and Target... nothing.

So it looks like I'll be forced to go the online route.

When I decide what I'm going to buy, would I be troubling you guys too much to ask for a small list of the basic "must-haves" for that particular type of model (plastic, vinyl, ect.)?

It would be great if you guys could.

Thanks again. You all have been an immese help so far.

I'll let you know what I decide to grab first.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Anyone familiar with metal models?

I found an excellent looking Frankenstein at frontiermodels.com that looks like he is chained to a couple of columns. He's standing up.

About 27 bucks.


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

I haven't done any metal kits, but one thing I didn't see mentioned is PRIMER. I suggest priming all kits (after they've been washed and air-dry) You can paint acrylics straight onto vinyl kits if you want but I like to prime everything first. A spray can of white or light grey primer, not too heavy to obscure the detail of the kit. I use a light coat of Duplicolor myself. Primer not only gives you a uniform base to start painting but shows up any failings in the seems or other work you've done to the kit.

As has been mentioned for vinyl kits, fill the legs/bottom with plaster of some kind ( I use Durham's Water Putty) to keep the kit from sagging. To mount I drill a hole in the foot, etc., and insert a plastic wall anchor. Tape over it to keep the plaster from leaking out. Later you can run a self-tapping screw up throught the base into the anchor to mount ( or UNmount ) the figure as you please.

OH, that metal Frankie sounds like a good deal ! What scale is it ?


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

correct me if i am wrong, closet full of vynils but have not done one yet....
can you primer a vynil with acrylic, then use enamels?


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

I'm not sure Jack, but I think so as long as there is a barrier between the vinyl and enamel. Although it may take some time for the emanel to dry. Someone better versed than me/I may have to chime in here. They do sell acrylics in spray cans now, I use Krylon Crystal Clear spray as a seelant on printed paper ( ink jet) items, it's for decals, etc.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

the Dabbler said:


> I haven't done any metal kits, but one thing I didn't see mentioned is PRIMER. I suggest priming all kits (after they've been washed and air-dry) You can paint acrylics straight onto vinyl kits if you want but I like to prime everything first. A spray can of white or light grey primer, not too heavy to obscure the detail of the kit. I use a light coat of Duplicolor myself. Primer not only gives you a uniform base to start painting but shows up any failings in the seems or other work you've done to the kit.
> 
> As has been mentioned for vinyl kits, fill the legs/bottom with plaster of some kind ( I use Durham's Water Putty) to keep the kit from sagging. To mount I drill a hole in the foot, etc., and insert a plastic wall anchor. Tape over it to keep the plaster from leaking out. Later you can run a self-tapping screw up throught the base into the anchor to mount ( or UNmount ) the figure as you please.
> 
> OH, that metal Frankie sounds like a good deal ! What scale is it ?


Wow. 1/32.

I didn't notice that when I first looked at it. I figured it was like a 1/8 or something.

Which leads me to one of my previous questions. 

Do I need some type of magnifying glass or something to paint micros? Seems like a good detailed paint job will be a pain in the rear without it.

Thanks for the tips also. I read in a "How To" section over at theclubhouse1 about what you're talking about. makes good sense.

Pretty good buy on that Frankenstein do you think?

Must be a forign site because all of the prices are first listed in... Euro's, I guess?

Then an American price is also listed.

Shipping might be outrageous.

Edit: I stand corrected... 3 bucks.

Looks like this may be my first kit.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

What is styrene? 

Found the Wolf Man with the tree at culttvman.com. 

The reissue from Polar Lights.

I was just wondering what styrene means. I'm dumb, I know.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Polystyrene is the type of plastic that most model kits are made of. It's "welded" together with styrene glue, and is the most common type of plastic used for model kits.

Chris.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Ahhh. I see.

I thought maybe it was a different type of model. Something differrent from plastic, or resin, or vinyl.

Thanks alot.


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## yamahog (Nov 19, 1998)

Texas Horror said:


> What is styrene?












Styrene Ryan


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> What is styrene?
> 
> Found the Wolf Man with the tree at culttvman.com.
> 
> ...


You're not dumb- you're learning. That's smart!
I'm not sure, but the Wolfman kit could be made from a different kind of plastic called ABS. It's still styrene, but it needs to be glued with a different type of glue. I used superglue when I built mine. Wolfman is a good kit and I recommend it highly.
Maybe someone here can tell us exactly what plastic was used.....

Chris.


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## Scott Hasty (Jul 10, 2003)

BWHAHAHAHHA!!!

Another one hooked!!!!!


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Welcome to the fold, Tex. But your earlier statment about not wanting to wait 3 weeks leads me to warn you that one of the most important traits that you must cultivate in ANY type of modelling is patience.


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## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

I think the word 'Styrene' is an ancient Chinese word meaning :" Whatever we have in the mold injection machine today" ...which is anyones guess.
Mcdee
PS Buy different kinds of glue...


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

not wanting to wait 3 weeks?
hmmmm,
i got kits started from, well, signifigantly longer than 3 weeks ago.
i have multiples going at once and do only a small portion to each at a time.
yes patience is definitely a must, i'll be trimming and filling the toy biz marvels for at least 3 weeks


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene
the main difference, abs is more impact resistant, over referred to as "anti break styrene"
just a little more rubbery than regular styrene


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

wasnt she on the polymer hill billies?


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

jackshield said:


> not wanting to wait 3 weeks?
> hmmmm,
> i got kits started from, well, signifigantly longer than 3 weeks ago.
> i have multiples going at once and do only a small portion to each at a time.
> yes patience is definitely a must, i'll be trimming and filling the toy biz marvels for at least 3 weeks



My original statement was that I didn't want to wait 3 weeks for one to arrive in the mail.

That was why I wanted to find one in an actual hobby shop around here some where. But, no dice.

But yeah, I've pretty much realized from all the threads I've read here that it takes tons of patience.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> My original statement was that I didn't want to wait 3 weeks for one to arrive in the mail.
> 
> That was why I wanted to find one in an actual hobby shop around here some where. But, no dice.
> 
> But yeah, I've pretty much realized from all the threads I've read here that it takes tons of patience.


AND WITHOUT AN OLD SCHOOL HOBBY SHOP, YOUR CHOICES ARE LIMTED......HOBBY LOBBY & MICHAELS DONT CARRY MUCH, DEFINITELY NOTHING BESDIES STYRENE....
THERE ARE ONLY A FEW HOBBY SHOPS LEFT IN OKLAHOMA CITY, AND THEY MOSTLY CARRY TRAINS STUFF, THEIR KITS ARE THE MAJOR MARKETED STYRENE KITS.
A FEW COMIC BOOK STORES HERE CARRY SOME VINYL AND RESIN MODELS, BUT THEIR PRICE IS DOUBLE THAT OF EBAY, INCLUDING SHIPPING. oops, sorry for caps...
i just got rid of an extra hulk, but i have a planet of the apes cornelius you could have, its a snap tite but fits pretty good, got one going on bench, would be more than happy to send it to you for price of shipping.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Wow. That's a very kind offer Jack.

I've never really been a big POTA fan, but I guess it would be a good opportunity for me to kinda familiarize myself with the process. Last time I put a model together was when I was a wee lad. This could help me decide if assembling models is really for me at my 33 years of age. 

I've been known to have a temper, unfortunatly. As far as detailed tasks go, that is.

Will a snap tight really challenge me do ya think? It's unpainted, right?

I guess it'll still be a good start for me since from what I've read, snap tights require alot of seam work.

I may take you up on it. Know of anywhere that I could see a picture of one that's built up?

Thanks alot.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> Wow. That's a very kind offer Jack.
> 
> I've never really been a big POTA fan, but I guess it would be a good opportunity for me to kinda familiarize myself with the process. Last time I put a model together was when I was a wee lad. This could help me decide if assembling models is really for me at my 33 years of age.
> 
> ...


i have some pics of one glued together, or assembled loosely. they are pretty simlpe, but gives you a chance to asemble seam and paint. the fit is pretty tight, but i cut off the arms pegs on mine, the shoulders werent lining up right, will take a small amount of putty at union. base is easy to assemble but has lots of texture, get familiar with washes and dry brushing. just send me an email with snail mail addy and i will get it underway.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Sounds good.

Where are the pics?


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

i will have to post them from home, havent put them up anywhere, over due for bench update, i have some in process pics on my space, [email protected]
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewAlbums2&friendID=374473035&view=true
i was not aware you had to be a myspace member to view pics, so i need to find a more public posting place.
you can email me at [email protected]


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Sent you an e-mail.

You sure you're willing to let that kit go so cheaply?


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

actually got it and a comic book with record from 1974, for free, with another item i got at a good price, already sold the comic for 20, more than i paid initially, so i'm still ahead


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Jackshield,
post your pix here in the "my photos" gallery under your name. We can then all see them and you can post a link to them from other sites. Just copy/paste the link in other sites. Also copy/paste that link into a thread that you post on here too.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Got another question for you guys.

I've read about how you shouldn't glue parts together after they have been painted. Is this just a general rule of thumb, or a die hard commandment?

The reason I ask is, I've been wondering how you avoid hitting unwanted areas when dry brushing. it looks as if some of these spots are pretty tight, and dry brushing seems to be somewhat of a "final touch".

Do you just play it by ear, and paint two seperate parts first if need be? Then use just enough glue so as not to have any bead up through the crack when you press the two parts together?

Thanks for any advice.

Yeah, that's me. The new guy.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

The general rule is to scrape paint away where the surfaces are to be glued. You can always touch up if you have to. Where possible, assemble all things that are one colour and easily accessible, then paint it as a unit. If you get a small amount of glue on a painted joint, just let it dry then touch it up with clear flat paint (Testors Dullcote is good).

Chris.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Okay, when you say scrape paint away, what paint are you talking about?

The paint that you've already applied? All you need to paint are the surfaces that aren't actually glued to one another, right?

Sorry. I know I'm probably making this too difficult.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Also...

Would it be worth trying to get any of the files and stuff like that at Wal-Mart?

I know I can get paints and sandpaper there, but will I need to hit Michaels for the other stuff?

I was thinking of going to Michael's and Hobby Lobby just to look around and maybe pick up a few things. And just kinda get aquainted with the supplies. I love going in those places if for nothing else, just to browse.

But with gas being so high, Wal-Mart is much closer.

But also much less interesting.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

not sure what you have available:

i have been buying packages of emory boards at a local store chain called "dollar tree"
you get 36 in a package for a dollar, different sizes and grit, like sand paper on a stick, work very well with styrene.

i tend to glue up models as much as possible before painting, but leave off pieces that can be glued after, like a head or hand that goes into a collar, and usually mask areas i intend to glue later. if differs from model to model.

walmart is probably going to have just a little better price than those others, but less of a selection. the walmarts in my area got rid of models, i got a bunch of supplies on clearance, and yes, i went to all of them and cleaned them out.

i will offer some hints, right or wrong:

i used to trim and scrap pieces before putting together, but found, if pieces fit good, it is better to leave a little flashin, then trim after they have bonded, makes for way less putty work.

on strene, i tend to do base coats in enamel, and use acyrlics for washes and dry brushing, it seems to work much better for me.

be aware, the larger jars of testors paint, ie, "model masters", is mixed for airbrushing, not the best for brushes. you can mix your own from the smaller bottles, diluting with thinner, and get about the same qty for less money.

the acrylics i get from wally world, michaels, or hobby lobby are the generic .88 cents a bottle, or less on sell.

try to stock up too much on paint, i have throw away as i much as i used.

i did models as i kid. they pretty much stayed packed away my adult life, raisning kids did not leave time, money or space. in the last year or so, i have claimed a whole room which is geared around model building. at 41, my skills are not where they should be, but catching up.

feel free to correct inaccurate statements, i am learning as well.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

the Dabbler said:


> Jackshield,
> post your pix here in the "my photos" gallery under your name. We can then all see them and you can post a link to them from other sites. Just copy/paste the link in other sites. Also copy/paste that link into a thread that you post on here too.


i will get some photos up, have dial up at home, onlys connect at 26kbs, work isnt much faster.
i posted photos in albums, kind of works in progress or on the bench, on myspace.
i did not realize that you needed my space account to view them, probably try to get them on photobucket.
i take pics ass i go along, so i end up with quite a few pics for each.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> Okay, when you say scrape paint away, what paint are you talking about?
> 
> The paint that you've already applied? All you need to paint are the surfaces that aren't actually glued to one another, right?
> 
> Sorry. I know I'm probably making this too difficult.


You're not making it difficult at all mate.  I'm not the best when it comes to explaining things. The glue doesn't really work through the paint, so you have to remove the paint where the parts are to be glued. The easiest way to remove it is by scraping the paint off the plastic using the knife blades edge.Once you have bare plastic mating surfaces, you're ready to glue the parts.:thumbsup:

Chris.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Oh ok.

I think I see what you're saying.

So even an "unpainted" kit has a base layer of paint?

I thought they came with nothing on them at all. 

Just the plastic.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

they come unpainted


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Model kits come unpainted. The glue will stick to unpainted surfaces. Once you paint the surface, the glue will no longer stick the parts together.You have to scrape away the paint that you got on the area where the glue goes. 

Chris.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Yeah, I understood that part. That painted surfaces won't stick together.

I guess what I was getting at, and what I asked about a few posts ago, is why would you paint surfaces that have to be glued together?

This was the part that confused me.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Usually it's easier to paint the whole part then remove the paint where it needs to be glued.As a example, you might have a rat that needs to be glued to the base. Rather than glue it down then paint, it's easier to paint the rat and base seperately, then scrape the paint away from the base and the rat where the glue will go. If you scrape away too much paint, you can touch it up with paint. If there's a shiny glue spot, you can cover it with dullcote.

Chris.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Painted surfaces will stick together if you use the right kind of adhesive. If you have small parts which get attached to a base or a figure, you can use a drop of superglue gel. I also use a product called Aleen's Craft Glue. It is similar to white glue but it holds much better . That is available at Michael's Crafts and Walmart. I also get small bottles of superglue in a small bottle with a brush applicator at some of the Dollar Stores which I use a lot . You have to be careful with that though . If you get any paint on the brush. it will contaminate the glue in the bottle and it will become gummy and unuseable. If you are building a figure, glue all of the "subassumblies" first (ie torso, both arms, Both legs if molded separately and head.) Prime and fill the seams if you are going to . Then assemble the figure leaving off the head, hands and any small accessories which may go with the figure. If the arms are in a pose which puts the arms in as position which will make it difficult to paint the front of the body, I glue them on last . For assembling the halves of arms, torso, legs, etc, I use either superglue or a liquid cement such as Tenax, Plastruct or MicroWeld. 


Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

To put this in the easiest terms possible; 

RULE 1: Tube model cement MELTS the joining polystyrene plastic pieces together.
This is why it's important that the pieces not be painted where they join together, or to move the parts around while the cement is still drying (curing).

RULE 2: The less cement you apply, the stronger the bond will be between the parts.

RULE 3: Don't get any cement on your fingertips and then handle the bare plastic of your model. THAT's when your temper and blood pressure are guaranteed to click into  
And that is always followed by feeling


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks everyone for the great tips, as well as your continued patience with my lack of knowledge. I really appreciate it.

Guess what. More questions! 

There was a glue mentioned somewhere, I believe for plastic kits. I think it was called Tester's 1204 maybe? Is this what I need to use? Or does it matter, as long as it says it's for plastic, is it okay?

And as far as fillers or puttys, is there a certain kind that is preferable to use with plastic kits?

And primers. What do I use for a plastic kit? Just a regular spray can of white or grey primer?

I'll be making a trip to Michael's and Hobby Lobby in the next day or two. I kinda want to have everything I need (or as much as possible), ready when the Cornelius kit that Jack is being kind enough to send me arrives.

I'm going to reread the info and how-to section at theclubhouse1.com and try to see if there is anything I overlooked.

Thanks again.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Hi Texas --- 

The liquid cement I mentioned was Tenax 7-R. Plastruct also makes some which is good. I havent used the Testors in a long time. 

An excellent putty to use for filling is Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. They have it at WalMart and auto supply stores. Comes in a large black & red tube. I like it the best because it doesnt shrink as much as the other ones I have tried. 

For priming, I just use grey primer or FLAT white spray paint from WalMart or Ace. (Its the least expensive and I use a LOT of it so it saves some money there) I suggest the flat white because it is easier to cover --- especially when you want to paint fleshtones over it . 
If you want to get more of a feel of what it is like to build a "non -snap" kit with Cornelius, snap off the large long locator pins. The parts will line up a lot better that way anyway. That is a pretty cool kit too . 


Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for the info Gemini.

I'll be sure to look for the Tenax glue as well as the Bondo putty.

I'm glad to hear that a regular old can of flat white spray paint will do the trick for priming. I'm definatly looking to save wherever I can.

If I remember right, my mother has TONS of the little small squeeze tubes of acrylic paints leftover from woodworking projects she used to do years ago. But I think I'll just buy a bunch of new ones, since the ones she has, well... there's just no telling what condition the actual paint is in.

Yeah, from looking at the pics that jack sent me, I had all but decided that I would probably wind up breaking/cutting off some of the tabs that snap into place. Especially on the bottom of the feet. It looked like unless I did there would be a considerable gap between the bottom of his feet and the ground.

I wonder if Wal-Mart would have the little metal files and sanding sticks that I need. If so, I may just buy everything there. But then again, I'm sure Michaels will have alot better selection, so I may go there. Just to get a feel for what all kind of tools are out there.

Anything else you guys can think of that I'll need?

1) Glue
2) Putty
3) Metal files
4) Exacto knife
5) Wet/Dry sandpaper (200-400 grit)
6) Acrylic paints
7) Primer paint

I can probably get all of this stuff (including a good selection of paints) for 10-15 bucks, don't you think?

Any type of cleaner, or is this unnecessary for acrylics?


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

guess i am stuck in the 70's, still using testor products for glue and putty.
got a tube of putty, dont recall manufactuere, that came with partially started kit, havent tested it as of yet.


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Make sure you wash all parts in mild dish soap, rinse and air-dry to get all the mold release agent off of the parts before assembly. That way your parts will glue and paint up better.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

"RULE 2: The less cement you apply, the stronger the bond will be between the parts."

is that really true?

i was more under the impression more glue = more curing time.

of course, a big glob in side a closed up area would just melt plastic and not really set.

i try to ruff the edges i am gluing a bit, apply glue, but i always come back with flat toothpick and spread it even, pulling it away from exposed edges. i let it set just a bit to start the chemical process and the press the pieces together, the little bit of "melted" plastic can ooze just enough to fill the seam, but that always depends on models fit.

i have started using the non toxic variety of testors (blue tube), but only cuz of grandkids. i keep them away from the stuff, but just in case. hadnt really seen that much difference, but i generally allow glued pieces to cure for some time.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

So from what I've read, a cement is preferable to a glue.

But the cement takes much longer to set up also, right?


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

I actually buy most of my stuff at either Wal-Mart, Michael's, Dollar Stores (you can find LOTS of great stuff there CHEAP!!!!!) and the hardware store. They always have some sort of bargain bin where you can pickk up some stuff you can use. ) I got a pretty good set of mini files last week for about 5 bucks. 

I get lots of those flexible nail files at the Dollar store and use them all the time.

Sandpaper and an Xacto knife is good for removing plastic from the parts. For general sanding parts and removing scratches ---- sandpaper gets EXPENSIVE because you need a lot of it . They have bags of very fine steel wool in the paint sections of the hardware store. they can be used wet of dry for getting the plastic nice and smooth and removes scatches so that they will not show under the paint . I use those flexible sanding files (used for manicuring) to sand putty on seams. You will save a lot of money by using those. 

As far as glue goes --- I find the liquid cement really works best. I just hold the parts together, brush it on and squeeze . (Just don't use it on clear plastic parts or they will fog up .)

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

they are bottles with syringes tips on top, like a needle, are very good for liquids, used them when fabricating in the plastics industry


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Are there any types of primers that will damage my kit?

I read over at cluhouse1 that you need to make sure the primer you are buying is safe for a plastic kit.

Do they make primers just for model kits? If so, I'm assuming they are a little more expensive that a regular can of flat spray paint.

So if I buy just a regular can of flat white or gray spray paint, will it specify if it's safe to use on plastic?


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

I use Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer. It works well. The idea is to spray light coats and let them dry, before moving onto the next coat(s). If you spray it too "wet" or heavily, you could melt the plastic.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks kit-junkie. I'll make a not of that type of paint.

But are there any types of spray paint that will damage a plastic kit, even if I lightly coat it?


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

More questions in 3... 2... 1......

Do I need to buy any paint thinner to mix with my putty? Or nail polish remover? Or will water work?

I plan on buying just a simple one-part putty, but I've read about mixing it with the above stuff.

Is it pretty easy to use in the form that it comes, or will I need to dilute it?




Also, with this being my first model building venture (of any seriousness, that is), should I go ahead and buy some sealer? To protect any progress that I don't want to loose.

If so, what kinds are recommended? Are there spray sealers?




And lastly... quick show of hands. How many here are sick of me?


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Tex,
I very highly recommend that you get ahold of the following;

http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=2550

It's a quick, easy read with plenty of photos, and if you go by the recommendations in it, you'll be leaps ahead of yourself in satisfactory model building than you would from just asking questions to a bunch of grumpy old potato heads in this funny farm of an on-line forum.

Get that guide, and don't hesitate to ask questions of us; it makes us feel like we're actually still "needed". :woohoo:


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

HEY!! Who are you callin' grumpy?!


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Texas

If you use the Bondo Glazing putty, you can put a little rubbing alcohol or some liquid cement on a brush and that will thin the putty . Just be sure to use a separate "cheapie" brush and dont put that brush into the bottle. You don't want to thin it too much or it will make a mess. If you get too much putty on the plastic, let it dry COMPLETELY before you sand it or it will melt the plastic. 



For sealer, use any spray dull or clear gloss spray. Krylon makes a good one. 


Geminibuildups

www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

kit-junkie said:


> HEY!! Who are you callin' grumpy?!


 
Sorry, KJ, my profoundest apologies.
I meant to say "cantankerous old geezers that nobody likes much", but thought "grumpy" would be a tad more politically correct.


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

That's much better.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for the link Seaview. I'll definatly check it out.

Gemini...

Let me make sure I'm understanding you.

Apply the putty, then brush on some rubbing alchohol?

Or mix the putty and alchohol first?

And don't put the brush into what bottle?

Sorry, just wanna make sure i'm clear on this.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Sorry --- Its been a LONG day!!! Been building some shelving units for my shop and my brain is a little tired I guess. Ill try to explain it better ...

I usually apply my putty with a plastic paint spatula. They have packages of those in different sizes at Michael's for about a dollar. I put a small amount on the spatula and then brush on a little plastic cement or rubbing alcohol with a cheap brush. I meant not to put the brush directly in the bottle of cement or alcohol. Pour a little in a small separate dish . 


I read my other message over and it WAS a little confusing . 


Geminibuildups

www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

No problem at all Gemini. And thank you for all of your advice and help.

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I have a tendency to complicate things.

What you are saying makes perfect sense now.

Thanks again.


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## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Potato Head.?...That's Mr.Potato Head to you...
Mcdee


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

mcdougall said:


> Potato Head.?...That's Mr.Potato Head to you...
> Mcdee


I stand exonerated: refer to post #66.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

i use the testors putty. i have some plastic toothpicks, that have a square shank but the head is at an angle, falttens out, and tapers to a point. grab a few at the steak house when i go, but im sure they are commericially available. i also took a cheapo, plastic mecahancil pencil, removed the apparatus, and heated end with lighter, just till pliable, and stuck in square shank of totthpick, pressing tip around it to mold to shape, then a drop of super glue, makes a great tool cuz it has a blade shape and a point, some flexibility allows you to adjust pressure.
i keep a bottle of the testors enamel thinner and dip tool when using, keeps putty from hanging onto tool, and let you smooth the surface. in most case, putty doesnt need to be touched afterwards. i squeeze out small bits onto a little plastic pallete and pick it up from there with the tool. big areas cana be dispersed from the tube, and can still come back with tool and put surface on it or smooth, etc. i have also used the testors glue tip extension for applying putty in small or tight areas.
i'll post a pic of tool tonight, might inspire you to create tools of your own.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

tex, i got a book on painting female figures that has a lot of good reference/tips in it, i will try to get it scanned this weekend and email to you, has pics at different stages


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Sounds great. I'll take any help or instructional type material I can get.

Thanks Jack.


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

Texas,

"Future" floor finish for a final top coat. anout $6

A set of pastels (chalk) for weathering. Use Michaels or Hobby Lobby 40% coupons to get a set for about $5.

Harbor Freight- clamps, files, small spatula tools $1-$5

A roll of the blue 3M painters tape for delicate surfaces. $3

One of the desktop lamps with a built in magnifying glass $20

Head visor magnifier. I have one with a built in light. $5-$15

I would also suggest you make a trip to a Sallys Beauty Supply and pick up some of their fingernail files for sanding. They come in 5 or 6 different grits. I pretty much use the blue and pink ones. They do wear out pretty fast but they are also cheap. You can also use them with water for wet sanding. They are washable but I've never had much luck getting them to work well once they become clogged.

I also use their sponge tipped eye makeup thingies to apply pastels for weathering.


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

"Future" floor finish for a final top coat. about $6

A set of pastels (chalk) for weathering. Use Michaels or Hobby Lobby 40% coupons to get a set for about $5.

Harbor Freight- clamps, files, small spatula tools $1-$5

A roll of the blue 3M painters tape for delicate surfaces. $3

One of the desktop lamps with a built in magnifying glass $20

Head visor magnifier. I have one with a built in light. $5-$15

Bagging the kit, anyway, because you haven't a clue how to use the stuff? PRICELESS! :thumbsup:

For those times, we have American Express!


Yep, I've ruined a couple along the way.


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## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

I am going to throw one last little bit of advice out there for you. Take everything everone has said here and keep it tucked away and let is soak in but the most important part is this.......don't set yourself up with too many rules and guidlines before you pick up a model and start putting it together. I can tell by your enthusiasm that you are gong to have fun with modeling again no matter what. Having fun is the best part of the hobby and you already have that part......SO GO GET A MODEL AND PUT IT TOGETHER!!!! and be sure and post some pics for us to see cause we like that!


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

I agree with DuckFink, completely. Just grab a couple inexpensive kits and throw yourself into it. 

We all learn from our mistakes. None of us has started out making a perfect model. I've _never_ made a perfect model. Part of the fun--for me--is remembering what I might have done better and trying to improve on it the next time. Just don't let yourself get discouraged by a less than stellar attempt. Chalk it up to learning and move onto the next project. It's all about the enjoyment.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

kit-junkie said:


> "Future" floor finish for a final top coat. about $6
> 
> A set of pastels (chalk) for weathering. Use Michaels or Hobby Lobby 40% coupons to get a set for about $5.
> 
> ...


Exactly what I was thinking. 

I think I'll hold off on most of that stuff for now. 

Except the files.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Duck Fink said:


> I am going to throw one last little bit of advice out there for you. Take everything everone has said here and keep it tucked away and let is soak in but the most important part is this.......don't set yourself up with too many rules and guidlines before you pick up a model and start putting it together. I can tell by your enthusiasm that you are gong to have fun with modeling again no matter what. Having fun is the best part of the hobby and you already have that part......SO GO GET A MODEL AND PUT IT TOGETHER!!!! and be sure and post some pics for us to see cause we like that!


Thanks DF.

Yeah, I have a tendency sometimes to put more energy and effort into preparing for something than actually doing it.

These past couple days, I've forced myself to not read anything on the net about modeling. I was overdoing it as far as research there for a while.

Right now I'm just relaxing and waiting for the kit jackshield sent me to arrive.

Thanks for the advice and encouragment.


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## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

The good thing is there is a lot of great info on this board from all kinds of builders. I slowly adopt "one more thing that I read somewhere on here" all of the time. Then somewhere along the line it becomes one of my standards when building. Then some other neat piece of advice comes along and changes the way I work again. Go with the flow, slap a few kits together and be critical after you get a few of them on the shelf. I can tell you are busting at the seams to build.....I have been too this weekend! Good luck, Texas Horror. I look forward to seeing some of your builds.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Well, I recieved Cornelius today in the mail.

Thanks again Jack. I can't wait to get started on it.

Unfortunatly though, I'll have to wait at least another couple days till I get a chance to go to Wal-Mart to pick up the supplies.

I went to Hobby Lobby a couple of days ago, but didn't have much luck finding anything. Sad, I know.

I found the Testor's plastic cement. But that was about it.

The people working there made me want to strangle them. I asked a young girl where the putties were, and just got kind of a blank look. Then she asked "like kid's putty?" 

"No, like filling putty. Putty to fill cracks and holes", I replied. She then directed me to where the play dough is.

I asked another clerk, but she went to "ask a manager", and I never saw her again.

I was short on time, and had to meet my wife and father-in-law for lunch, so I just left. Even though I had about half an hour to kill when I went in, I came out empty handed.

But I had planned on going to Wally world anyway, just to see if I could find the stuff cheaper there.

Anyway. I guess I'll go ahead a wash all the parts, and maybe remove some flash with just a regular razor blade.

Speaking of blades, when you guys refer to a Exacto knife, is that the same thing as a hobby knife? Cause that's all I saw at Hobby Lobby.

Thanks.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Texas, 

I feel your pain when it comes to the workers at some of there places. I went into a hardware store a few days ago and I must have seen the SAME girl!!!!! I asked her where I would find some files and she replied "Like ---- for your NAILS?" The long blank stare she got back finally registered and she found someone who knew what I was talking about . 

Dont use a regular razor blade to trim the parts. You can't build Cornelius with only 8 or 9 fingers. It would be VERY easy to cut yourself ---DEEP!!! And it HURTS!!! An X-acto knife is the same as a hobby knife. 

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

I think there must be a bunch of clones of that girl...she worked at the local hardware store where I used to live...


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

the testors putty will be right beside the testors cement at most hobby lobbys, if i would have been thinking, i could have pulled plastic wrap off of model and throw in a bunch of stuff like that, i am pretty much 2-3 deep in everything.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

jackshield said:


> the testors putty will be right beside the testors cement at most hobby lobbys, if i would have been thinking, i could have pulled plastic wrap off of model and throw in a bunch of stuff like that, i am pretty much 2-3 deep in everything.



No problem Jack. You've already done plenty.

Plus, I need to get familiar with where all this tuff is in the different shops.

Yeah, I looked around in the same area where I found the cement, but didn't see any fillers. But then again, I was already frustrated with the incompetent employees, as well as in a hurry to meet my wife. So I very well may have overlooked it.

I'll probably run to Wallyworld when I get off in the morning. I'll have a couple of hours to kill before I have to take over the watch with my 1 1/2 year old son when my wife goes to work.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

the blue tube is non toxic cement
the red tube is cement ( doesnt say toxic, you do the math )
the gray tube is putty ( white in color )
the green tube is cement for wood & metal ( contact cement )


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Should the liquid cements and puttys be near the models at Wal-Mart? I know all Wal-marts are different, but would this be the logical place to look?

And in case I have to ask, should I just call it putty? Or are they called something more specific?


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

The Bondo Glazing & Spot putty in the red tube is in the automotive section. I havent looked in the model section in a long time. I personally don't like the Testors white putty. It tends to get too crumbly and it shrinks a lot.



Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Well, I finally made it to Wal-Mart this morning when I got off.

But I was amazed to find that they no longer sell models, or any conventional modeling supplies.

So I bought a tube of Duco Cement. Says it's great for all surfaces and projects, including plastic. It also says it's extremely toxic. So I guess it's good stuff.

Also got the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty.

However, I forgot to buy anything to clean the brush that I'm gonna use for the glue. Will alchohol work? Or will I even need a brush for the glue?

Same delima with the putty. Or will regular soap and water work with it?

I held off on wet dry sandpaper, since I've got some regular sandpaper here of varying grits. 

I'm going to try and start on it tonight, since I'm off.


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

Duco cement?!! Don't do it. I have a baaaad feeling about it. It's going to melt your kit (and your brain). Get a tube of Testors from a web site.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Texas Horror,
I've been reading this thread and wanted to say WELCOME! :wave:

As said here many times...don't get yourself too twisted on alot of the stuff mentioned. Most plastic model kits are very easy to build. It is best to keep it simple at first and have fun with it. You'll be surprised on your results if you just take your time. 

Open box and wash kits in dish soap, shake off any water and let dry thoroughly. Try to find a nice work area as most of us have a table or bench that we like to work at that won't be disrupted when you have to leave to go and pick up the kids or walk the dog or when the wife calls you for supper.

I usually read the instructions for any tips that might be useful...sometimes putting parts together in assemblies is very helpful and easier to find the parts one at a time. I do not remove parts from the plastic trees (called sprues) until I need them or I'm ready to glue them together. It keeps them from getting lost. 

The seams can be filled then smoothed easily with a nail file that you can get in the cosmetic section of Walmart or just ask the wife or girlfriend for one. 

Using primer is a very good idea. Acrylics have a much bigger color selection and are easier to clean up. However, it is best to seal them so they won't nick when handling them later. I usually try to seal them when I am finished with most of the kit. The amount of sealing varies with most people.

Drybrushing is a technique that alot of folks here use and you can acheive incredible results as it helps to bring out details in the kit that you may not see if the model was painted all of a solid color. This takes time to get this mastered as well as others but it is very easy to try yourself. It just takes practice. the more you do, the easier it gets until you get the feel of what you are doing.

If you get the basics...the rest will come with every model you do thereafter!

Again, safety is NUMBER ONE! Be careful with the Xacto knife and any glues that you are using...especially if there are young kids around. Don't leave this stuff lying around where they can accidentally get into it.:freak:

And by all means....ask questions and post pics!:thumbsup:

MMM


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for the advice and encouragment MM.

Yeah, I'm really looking forward to my first attempt at drybrushing. I've looked at alot of pics from folks here who drybrush, and it's looks like a really nice touch.

Also, if anyone can help...

Will a metal file be able to smooth uneven seams?

I went ahead and glued a couple pieces together this morning before I went to sleep. But no matter how hard I tried, they just didn't quite match up. And I'm talking about just a hair off. Just enough so that you can feel it when you run your finger across it.

I just don't think that the putty will level it out completly. It's gonna have to have a bit of the actual plastic taken off.

Is this commonplace?


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Between putty and sanding/filing...that should take care of it!

MMM


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

kit-junkie said:


> Duco cement?!! Don't do it. I have a baaaad feeling about it. It's going to melt your kit (and your brain). Get a tube of Testors from a web site.



So far, so good KJ.

Thanks for the advice. But it looks like it did the trick. And no melting that I can see.

If anyone has any experience with this stuff, please chime in here.

Duco Cement. Green and Yellow tube.

However, I just noticed on the label that it says "for polystyrene plastics, use Duco Model Cement."

Which Wal-Mart doesn't have.

I found the Testors Model Cement at Hobby Lobby, but as I posted earlier, I held off on it due to frustration as well as wanting to price the stuff at Wallyworld.

Anyway, Maybe I should wait till I can get back to Hobby Lobby. Thing is, it's an hour away. So I can't just up and go.

Wal-Mart is about two minutes away from my job though.


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

That Duco cement you have is a mostly 'household' type glue. 

The little ridge on your glued seam may just scrape/shave down even with the X-acto blade held at 90*, or build the seam up with a touch of putty and shave/sand down even when dry. keep going, the "feel" will come to you, AND you'll find your own style and techniques.

Also web-search things like the Micro-Mark catalogue and scan through it. that will get you informed on various tools and how they are used. that's how I learned a lot of this. Order one sent to your home, I get one about every month or so free after one order.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

When I get ready to paint this bad boy, should I try to stay loyal to the colors from the movie, or just paint it as I wish?

I found some pics on the web of a built up Cornelius with a really nice color scheme that I like alot. But I don't want to "copy" it. I'd like to do something original, but then again, I kinda feel like I should stay within the same ballpark as the colors from the movie.

It'll be several days, maybe a couple weeks before I even get close to painting it. I've got it assembled into four main pieces, which will need to be painted seperatly.

And I haven't even begun filling and sanding yet. Plus I still have to put on the primer.

I was just trying to get an idea of how I should paint it when the time comes for that.

Thanks guys.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

I usually paint models in the way I like the most. I don't care if I copy a certain look that someone else may have done. I'm the one at the end of the day that has to look at the kit on my self or display.Info on the internet comes and goes. You will still have your certain touch to it anyway to make it your own so I wouldn't worry about the copying someone elses ideas. They probably would be flattered. I know I would at least. And the best part is, if you don't like the paint job, you can strip it and repaint it again anyway. 

Don't get to frustrated on this .... just build it, slap some paint on it and have fun with it! 


MMM


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

i would go with painting like movie if working towards a goal, cant go wrong with that.
sometimes i just like to freestyle something as well.
while it is nice to look at others work, i have found it deters me from things i had thought of, but didnt want to look like knock off.
check out the skin tone on my frankenstein, still some traditional green, just not done traditionally green.......huh
http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn35/jackshield/
since the movie is a black n white, and i dont know how to translate greyscale, figured it was open territory, pretty much the same i have done with the rest of the aurora type monsters.
i "torched" the base on godzilla, then seen it done a hundred times over, so now i want to detail it.
-use your base to practice washes and dry brushes, features are heavy enough, if you dont like, re-base coat and start again.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

MonsterModelMan said:


> I usually paint models in the way I like the most. I don't care if I copy a certain look that someone else may have done. I'm the one at the end of the day that has to look at the kit on my self or display.Info on the internet comes and goes. You will still have your certain touch to it anyway to make it your own so I wouldn't worry about the copying someone elses ideas. They probably would be flattered. I know I would at least. And the best part is, if you don't like the paint job, you can strip it and repaint it again anyway.
> 
> Don't get to frustrated on this .... just build it, slap some paint on it and have fun with it!
> 
> ...


Thanks MMM. You're right. It's not like anyone has a copyright on their work.

But I kinda want to be original also, so...

Oh well. I've still got plenty of time to ponder what colors to use.

Thanks again for the encouragment. I like how you simplify the process. I wish I could think more along those lines, but I tend to be a perfectionist and I always expect things to turn out exactly like I envision them. And when they don't, which is more often than not, I'm like screw it. And I give up.

But part of the reason I decided to take up modeling is that I really think it can instill some patience in me. At least I hope it will.

Thanks again!


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

jackshield said:


> i would go with painting like movie if working towards a goal, cant go wrong with that.
> sometimes i just like to freestyle something as well.
> while it is nice to look at others work, i have found it deters me from things i had thought of, but didnt want to look like knock off.
> check out the skin tone on my frankenstein, still some traditional green, just not done traditionally green.......huh
> ...


Wow, excellent work on Franky there. I love seeing pictures of a model coming together. It sort of helps me realize that it's not an overnight deal, and help me to take my time.

That's the micro kit, right? Where did you buy it? How much did it set you back? If you don't mind me asking.

I think all the places I saw it online wanted like 25-30 bucks. If I remember correctly.

I can't wait to get my hands on monster kit of some kind. 

But Cornelius is coming along nicely. And it's a great learning experience, especially since it was free. :thumbsup:

Right now Cornelius is assembled, the little rock is on the base, the broken column is assembled, and the wall that says "EXCHANGE" is put together.

So I've got four pieces.

I'm tempted to go ahead and start some seam work, but I just glued this stuff together a few hours ago. So I guess I better wait till I get off in the morning, just to be safe.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

On a side note...

Anyone interested in seeing some pics from my recent Texas Chainsaw Massacre sightseeing trip?

If so, shall I post here, or is there a more appropriate forum?


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Okay, I may have jumped the gun a bit, but I went ahead and started some seam work. Impatience... I know.

I'm using the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty.

How much do I need to work it into the seams. Do I really need to pack it in. Or am I just looking to cover the cracks?

I'm afraid that when I go back and sand, I'm not going to be able to uncover the small details that are getting covered up when applying this stuff. Like the hairs on his feet, small wrinkles in his shirt, stuff like that.

Do the details come back out pretty easily? Or does it take alot of work to bring them back.

I'm not afraid of tedious sanding and filing, but I'm just curious as to what I should expect.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

If you putty over any details...that detail will have to be scribed back into the kit once its sanded. You will lose that detail with the putty. I usually apply the putty right at the seam and try to get enough putty on the seam to cover the gaps or bumps without covering too much other details on the kit. All you are trying to accomplish with the seam filler or putty is to remove the un-natural line seams when the pieces come together. You want the torso and other parts to look natural...so if you feather the putty smooth and then re-scribe or texture the detals of the hair or fur or rock later...then paint it...you won't notice where it came together. Simple...right?:freak:

MMM


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Yeah, I figured I would probably have to etch some of the details back in.

Is it best to apply the putty with a brush?

Maybe that's where I'm going wrong. I'm using a combination of a putty knife, a butter knife, and my finger to get it in there.

The feet are my main concern. The hair lines on them come right up to the seam. So it's virtually impossible not to get it on the hair.

Oh well. I guess all this tedious stuff will make me that much prouder of it when I'm through.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Texas Horror said:


> I'm using a combination of a putty knife, a butter knife, and my finger to get it in there.


Anything that will get it smooth is what I use. I have even used water on the tip of my finger and then rub it over the seam with the putty already on it to try to feather it smooth. It depends on the putty you use if water is good to wipe over it or not. I use Squadons Putty and it sets up like clay that you can shape up real nice. You don't need very much putty no matter what kind you use. You can always apply a second coat of putty if you sand too much down or miss a spot.
Again, just get it onto the seam...smooth it as best you can before it dries....then let it dry completely before sanding with a file or sand stick.
Then etch small detail back into it but try not to over-do it!

MMM


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

T.H., the "patience' thing is still a main problem with me. Afraid my quest to the education to be a real artist was interupted by real life so I get really frustrated when I can't get something the way my "mind's eye" sees it. My life's trail is littered with debris that I've thrown out the window due to inpatience and anger. ( mostly at myself)

I've found if you don't take the model, or yourself TOO seriously, sit at your bench and relax, start sanding/scraping and watch TV, etc. kind of turn your mind off and get lost in the (sometimes boring & dull) job you can gain a certain amount of patence. It's sort of a Yoga type thing, you get lost in the humdrum chore. In my case it's especially true with resin kits that need a lot of flash and seem work, I just sand myself into an "oooohhm"...."ooohhm" condition. 

Remember, this is supposed to be FUN !!!


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

for applying putty, i made these with a square shank plastic toothpick and a cheapo mech pencil casing. works really well, the longer extension is more flexible and the shorter more stiff. dip in thinner while i work, only squeeze out small amounts of putty at a time, onto a "pallette", using the testors putty though, dont know the effects of your type, but like water on clay, or alcohol on sculpey, "fluids" up the surface a bit, i also try to scuplt lines, etc. into wet putty, save on some of the work.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

TH, I'd like to see pics from your TCM sightseeing trip!


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> Yeah, I figured I would probably have to etch some of the details back in.
> 
> Is it best to apply the putty with a brush?
> 
> ...


Remember your last paragraph TH. It's important. :thumbsup:
Take your time, think things through, and don't give up. You obviously have the drive, you'll do well mate.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

the Dabbler said:


> T.H., the "patience' thing is still a main problem with me. Afraid my quest to the education to be a real artist was interupted by real life so I get really frustrated when I can't get something the way my "mind's eye" sees it. My life's trail is littered with debris that I've thrown out the window due to inpatience and anger. ( mostly at myself)
> 
> I've found if you don't take the model, or yourself TOO seriously, sit at your bench and relax, start sanding/scraping and watch TV, etc. kind of turn your mind off and get lost in the (sometimes boring & dull) job you can gain a certain amount of patence. It's sort of a Yoga type thing, you get lost in the humdrum chore. In my case it's especially true with resin kits that need a lot of flash and seem work, I just sand myself into an "oooohhm"...."ooohhm" condition.
> 
> Remember, this is supposed to be FUN !!!


Great minds think alike. :thumbsup:

Sounds like we are very similiar with our impatience.

Yeah, last night I sat down with a plate on top of a pillow in my lap, and just started filing while watching a recorded episode of "Ghost Hunters".

At first I thought I was cheating my model by not giving it the proper attention. But then I asked myself... "Am I in a race here?"

That made it much more enjoyable. Just taking my time and enjoying it.

Thanks for the info and encouragment.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

jackshield said:


> for applying putty, i made these with a square shank plastic toothpick and a cheapo mech pencil casing. works really well, the longer extension is more flexible and the shorter more stiff. dip in thinner while i work, only squeeze out small amounts of putty at a time, onto a "pallette", using the testors putty though, dont know the effects of your type, but like water on clay, or alcohol on sculpey, "fluids" up the surface a bit, i also try to scuplt lines, etc. into wet putty, save on some of the work.



I thought I was the only one thinking of McGyver stuff like this.

I've got a couple of other ideas up my sleeve as well. But thanks for the great ideas Jack.

I've GOT to get some of these sanding sticks that you guys are talking about. I think I'm gonna have my wife pick some up at Hobby Lobby today, since she's spending the night at her mother's with our son... about an hour from here... in the town that has a HL. The town we live in is less than 4,000 people. We have nothing here.

But guess what. I've go the house to myself this weekend! 

That means working on Cornelius in my underwear and drinking lots o beer!


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Auroranut said:


> Remember your last paragraph TH. It's important. :thumbsup:
> Take your time, think things through, and don't give up. You obviously have the drive, you'll do well mate.


Thanks mate!

But I have to admit, you scare me.

Everytime I read one of your posts, I think about the movie "Wolf Creek".


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

deadmanincfan said:


> TH, I'd like to see pics from your TCM sightseeing trip!



Well hell, I thought noone would ever ask! I'll just post a couple or six, so as not to stray too far from the main topic here.

The house in Kingsland, Now a restaurant...









The entrance, where notable scenes took place...









The Gas station...









The cemetery, opening shots in the movie...









I found out at the last minute before we left that the house from the remake/s were very close. Not the best movie, but I figured why not...


















And one more for good measure, completly unrelated... The Texas Horror family...


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Nice pix T.H., thanks for posting them. I didn't see all of the movie but the entry looks familiar and spooky. I do love old houses.

Good pix of your nice family too. Well, ok, two of the nice family !!  What a cute little boy, wish mine were that young again, they were much less problems and/or worries. 

By the way, in about 15-18 years from now, any phone call that starts out with...." Ah..?...Dad ?.....? " is NOT going end well !!


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Oh man, I know what you mean.

I put my old man through hell.

I'm trying to enjoy these "easy" years.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Texas,

Don't worry about it . Every model I have built in the past 20 years has been done in my underwear in front of the TV. (One of the advantages of self empoyment). One tip though if : BE CAREFUL OF THE SUPERGLUE AND DONT DROP ANY XACTO KNIVES!!!!



Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## painter x (Oct 15, 2006)

Texas Horror said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> Where can I find 1/6 or 1/8 Jason or Michael Myers.
> 
> That isn't a recast.



Sorry to join the conversation late LOL. Nice pics must of been cool to see the TCM house. I have a Jason goes to Hell screamin vinyl kit I could sell you. As for Michael Myers there really are not a whole lot of kits of him. The M1 kit is the best but very hard to find. So what I did was I bought the Neca statue and did a complete repaint on him made a simple base I was really happy with the results . Here are some pics.


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## mrmurph (Nov 21, 2007)

Hi TH
A restaurant, eh? I'd....ah...skip the barbeque, if I were you.
Thanks for posting those pics.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> Thanks mate!
> 
> But I have to admit, you scare me.
> 
> Everytime I read one of your posts, I think about the movie "Wolf Creek".


Scare you? How? I've seen your pic mate and you could snap me like a carrot!! I've never seen "Wolf Creek" so I'm afraid I can't make a connection. 

Chris.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

geminibuildups said:


> Texas,
> 
> Don't worry about it . Every model I have built in the past 20 years has been done in my underwear in front of the TV. (One of the advantages of self empoyment). One tip though if : BE CAREFUL OF THE SUPERGLUE AND DONT DROP ANY XACTO KNIVES!!!!
> 
> ...


:lol:

Ouch.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

painter x said:


> Sorry to join the conversation late LOL. Nice pics must of been cool to see the TCM house. I have a Jason goes to Hell screamin vinyl kit I could sell you. As for Michael Myers there really are not a whole lot of kits of him. The M1 kit is the best but very hard to find. So what I did was I bought the Neca statue and did a complete repaint on him made a simple base I was really happy with the results . Here are some pics.


Wow. Very nice PX. I like the way you smudged the blood on the fence. Nice touch.

I might be interested in that Jason. Got any pics of it, or a link to any pics of one that is built up?

Thanks.


----------



## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

mrmurph said:


> Hi TH
> A restaurant, eh? I'd....ah...skip the barbeque, if I were you.
> Thanks for posting those pics.


Actually I wish they did serve BBQ there. I mean, you go to the original TCM house... you HAVE to eat BBQ. That would have been awesome.

But instead, I had...

A 14oz. Sirloin
Grilled quail
fried shrimp
baked potatoe/salad
Fried onion appetizer
and two pieces of my wife's fried fish.

:thumbsup:


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Auroranut said:


> Scare you? How? I've seen your pic mate and you could snap me like a carrot!! I've never seen "Wolf Creek" so I'm afraid I can't make a connection.
> 
> Chris.


I was just kiddin about you scaring me. It's just that everytime I here an Austrailian talk, it reminds me of the villian from "Wolf Creek". You should be flatterred. It's one of my favorite flicks.

It's a movie loosely based on true events that happenned in your neck of the woods.

Backpackers were kidnapped and murdered.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Well I primed the actual figure of Cornelius and, well...

I've got alot of work to do still.

I filed those seams till I could feel no ridge at all. I even forced myself to look away while I ran my fingers across them, so as not to make myself think i was feeling something that wasn't really there.

But the lines are still very prevelant. 

And one of the shoulder joints isn't quite as smooth as I'd like.

When you get to a situation like this, do you just resand/file, do any needed putty work, sand more, then prime those areas again?

Thanks.


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> I was just kiddin about you scaring me. It's just that everytime I here an Austrailian talk, it reminds me of the villian from "Wolf Creek". You should be flatterred. It's one of my favorite flicks.
> 
> It's a movie loosely based on true events that happenned in your neck of the woods.
> 
> Backpackers were kidnapped and murdered.


OK I get it now.
Yeah, we have some pretty sick killers here. I take it the movie was based on someone like Ivan Milat. He killed people slowly for pure pleasure. Thank got he's been left in solitary to rot. He's pure evil!!
On a much more pleasant note, how's Cornelius coming along? 

Chris.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

He's coming along pretty well, I guess.

I'm just a bit frustrated with my seam work. I was convinced he would be totally smooth and clean after I primed him. But this wasn't so.

Do I just add more putty and do more sanding/filing then re-prime those areas?


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Texas Horror said:


> He's coming along pretty well, I guess.
> 
> I'm just a bit frustrated with my seam work. I was convinced he would be totally smooth and clean after I primed him. But this wasn't so.
> 
> Do I just add more putty and do more sanding/filing then re-prime those areas?


If the putty's shrunk back or the seam's still a low spot, it needs filling. If it's high, then sand it down. I realise that's not much help, but it's hard to know unless I can see it. Primer is good for finding faults before you paint. It shows any problem areas and gives you the chance to fix them while you can. If I was any good at posting pics, I'd fix a seam step by step so you could see it. I usually get my niece to post my pics (have you seen my photo album?), but she's starting to get a little ratty about it.

Chris.


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## painter x (Oct 15, 2006)

Texas Horror said:


> Wow. Very nice PX. I like the way you smudged the blood on the fence. Nice touch.
> 
> I might be interested in that Jason. Got any pics of it, or a link to any pics of one that is built up?
> 
> Thanks.


Thanks the Myers is one of my favorite pieces I painted. I will have to dig the Jason piece out ,but here is a build up pic I found let me know if you want it.


http://www.classicmonsters.de/2007/kits/13_001.jpg


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Auroranut said:


> If the putty's shrunk back or the seam's still a low spot, it needs filling. If it's high, then sand it down. I realise that's not much help, but it's hard to know unless I can see it. Primer is good for finding faults before you paint. It shows any problem areas and gives you the chance to fix them while you can. If I was any good at posting pics, I'd fix a seam step by step so you could see it. I usually get my niece to post my pics (have you seen my photo album?), but she's starting to get a little ratty about it.
> 
> Chris.


Yeah, I can pretty much tell what needs to be done, and in what areas.

I was just curious if this was standard prodedure. Or more specificly, if it was commonplace to have to do more seam work after a coat of primer has been applied.

I understand completly about posting pics. 

I know how to post them. But I usually have to get my wife to upload them from the camera to the computer, and then get them in the right file so that I can upload them to photobucket.

She's the brains in the family. But I'm learning.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

painter x said:


> Thanks the Myers is one of my favorite pieces I painted. I will have to dig the Jason piece out ,but here is a build up pic I found let me know if you want it.
> 
> 
> http://www.classicmonsters.de/2007/kits/13_001.jpg


That's an interesting piece, but it's not really what I'm looking for. I don't really like the look of the mask, and the way the skin seems too be growing over it. But thanks alot for the offer. I appreciate it.

I saw a Jason somewhere, maybe ebay, that looked similiar to this one. Only the one I saw had him holding his mother's head. But it was a recast, so I passed on it.

You would think there would be lots of Jasons and Michael Myers out there. Original ones.

I mean, horror model building isn't that obscure of a hobby is it?

I dunno. Maybe we're just freaks, and we don't realize it.


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## painter x (Oct 15, 2006)

Texas Horror said:


> That's an interesting piece, but it's not really what I'm looking for. I don't really like the look of the mask, and the way the skin seems too be growing over it. But thanks alot for the offer. I appreciate it.
> 
> I saw a Jason somewhere, maybe ebay, that looked similiar to this one. Only the one I saw had him holding his mother's head. But it was a recast, so I passed on it.
> 
> ...


Yes have to be aware of recasts. The one your talking about is the same one as this except for the head in is hand. Which so happens to be Tom Savinis head. I have always wanted to try and find an original of that version. Are you into Freddy?


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Yeah, I like the Nightmare movies.

I've seen a few Freddys on the net, but again, I think they were recasts.

Can you suggest any?


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

It is definately common to have to putty a couple times after the figure has been primed. (FUN isnt it ???) If you have a set of miniature files, you can use those to make the seams in Cornelius' tunic at the shoulders. Here is a photo of one I did so you can see what it looks like. (Unless you built it so that the arms will swing)

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Thanx for the pics, TH! Have to say, though, I did like the first remake of TCM...even went to see it at my local theatre dressed as Leatherface...scared the H-E-double hockey sticks out of a couple teemage girls...WOW the shrieks! Made it all worthwhile! 
Funny you're working on Cornelius right now...I just started on Zira a couple days ago. :thumbsup: Hope you're having as much fun with him as the rest of us here at HobbyTalk do with our build-ups!


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

geminibuildups said:


> It is definately common to have to putty a couple times after the figure has been primed. (FUN isnt it ???) If you have a set of miniature files, you can use those to make the seams in Cornelius' tunic at the shoulders. Here is a photo of one I did so you can see what it looks like. (Unless you built it so that the arms will swing)
> 
> Geminibuildups
> www.geminibuildupstudios.com


Nice work Gemini! Excellent paint job. The face really pops.

No, I didn't build it so the arms would swing. But that really is the problem zone so far. The shoulders.

And a few seam lines on the legs.

But my wife is suppossed to be picking up some sanding sticks for me today, so hopefully I'll be able to get in those hard to reach areas once I get them.

Thanks for the advice and pics.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

deadmanincfan said:


> Thanx for the pics, TH! Have to say, though, I did like the first remake of TCM...even went to see it at my local theatre dressed as Leatherface...scared the H-E-double hockey sticks out of a couple teemage girls...WOW the shrieks! Made it all worthwhile!
> Funny you're working on Cornelius right now...I just started on Zira a couple days ago. :thumbsup: Hope you're having as much fun with him as the rest of us here at HobbyTalk do with our build-ups!


Glad you liked the pics.

I also enjoyed the 2003 and 2006 TCM films. I've seen worse.

But also as I said, not the best either.

Worth going to see the house though when I was right there within 10 miles of it.

It was a fun trip.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Texas,

Glad you liked the pic of Cornelius. The hardest part on that model was the feet. I am a HUGE Apes fan so I never liked his little toes sticking out of the sandels. I sculpted new feet with the big toe on the side so it looked more like the original costumes. To make the features of the face pop, I painted it with a base coat of burnt sienna and then drybrushed a couple lighter flesh tones over that.

I think you will find those sanding sticks will make the sanding a lot easier . I use the very fine grit ones to remove any scratches from the plastic after you have finished sanding the putty --- before the primer goes on . 

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## painter x (Oct 15, 2006)

Texas Horror said:


> Yeah, I like the Nightmare movies.
> 
> I've seen a few Freddys on the net, but again, I think they were recasts.
> 
> Can you suggest any?



I have a really nice bust from Killer kits In my opinion one of the best freddys out there Here is a link Its a good scale its 1/3rd scale
The paint job on this one is not the best but the sculpt is amazing only freddy bust I have see with the souls of his children included in the sculpt. 

http://daveskillerkits.tripod.com/freddie.html


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Got a question...

Should'nt I be able to rely on the acrylics to do a certain degree of smoothing?

The reason I ask is I have some seams that just WILL NOT disappear completly.

I've puttied, filed and sanded till I'm blue in the face. There is no raised area, no gap, and when I run the tip of my fingernail across it, I feel nothing at all.

But there is still a faint line there. Even after a third shot of primer.

I'm assuming that the acrylics will cover minor blemishes like this, due to the fact that they are thicker.

Thanks.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Texas,

Most of the time, the acrylic paint will cover the faint line up pretty well. How many times did you have to putty & sand? You are just going to have to give it a try and take a look after it dries. That is really the only way to tell. 

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Puttied and sanded the same problem areas twice. Primed three times. I'm getting worried that I may begin to loose some detail as far as the hair areas with all of this sanding and priming. I've tried to be careful in that i hold the spray paint a good 12-14" away from my model so it doesn't get too thick and run.

But yeah, I've decided I'll just have to play it by ear.

I was just curious if the acrylics commonly cover up the faintest of lines. Or if you have to have a 100% smooth, unblemished surface on your entire model before painting.

I've all but decided that the latter is virtually impossible.

Thanks Gemini.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

The hair detail is always something that will disappear while sanding . Get a miniature needle file and you can restore the detail . Its a little time consuming ---- but it isn't too difficult to do.

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Guess what. Yep, another question. 

When I begin painting Cornelius, is there a certain technique in keeping colors off of areas in which they are not wanted?

When I begin trying to do some drybrushing, it seems that this will be pretty much done with broad, loose strokes.

So for instance, when I'm drybrushing the face, how do I keep the color I'm using from getting in the hair. And vice versa.

I'm worried that to get the full, intended effect of drybrushing, it will be difficult to keep it in the desired areas.

Thanks.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

you can tape of areas, i got tip from mag, using liquid latex as a mask. you can do eyes, cover with liquid latex, then paint face, remove latex when all is done by rubbing it off. party supply stores sell it as "fake skin"


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

I see. That sounds like a neat little trick. Thanks Jack.

Any other techniques?


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Texas Horror said:


> Any other techniques?


Here's one...."Be wery wery careful not to paint the areas that you don't want paint on!"

Take your time...and hows about some WIP pics? 

We could have written a journal with all this advise we are giving you! The suspense is killing us! I almost feel like I've been to the dentist!

Just have fun...don't make this into a chore...throw some paint on it!!!
We're dying to see it!

MMM


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Believe it or not, I had planned on trying the "don't get paint where you don't want it" technique, but I just figured maybe there was a better way. So I figured I'd ask the pros here first.

Sorry... I didn't, mean for this thread to turn into a "journal", but I've been told since day one to ask questions.

Pics on the way. I'm having hell getting this fancy dan camera we got for Christmas to take extreme close ups.

I would have posted some sooner, but I didn't figure a solid gray ape and some gray stones would be that interesting.

Again, sorry for all the trouble.


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Don't take it serious T.H., it's just MMM's way to get you motivated. You gots to have thick skin on here but the guys won't steer you wrong. Now if Steven Coffey gets on ya ignore him too, his humor doesn't always translate well via web postings. His bark is worse than his bite, he has false teeth !!!!

AND don't sweat asking questions, it might be something we all want to know also but let you be the guy asking. ( WE don't want to look liike "newbies"  )


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

"I would have posted some sooner, but I didn't figure a solid gray ape and some gray stones would be that interesting."

Oh yeah ? well you don't have to sit here staring at my wife all day


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Ok. Not very good lighting, and I couldn't get any good close-ups, but here we go...


My "Workbench", aka... the kitchen counter. Notice the fresh tomatoes from my mother's garden sitting directly beside the highly toxic cement.











Tried to get a pic of the problem area shoulders, but they aren't very visible.



















































The base. I filled in around the stone that had to be put into place on the upper right area. It just didn't seem to look natural with a big gap all around it.











So there we go. Cornelius at the present.

I'm going to try to start some painting either this afternoon or in the morning.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

the Dabbler said:


> "I would have posted some sooner, but I didn't figure a solid gray ape and some gray stones would be that interesting."
> 
> Oh yeah ? well you don't have to sit here staring at my wife all day


HA!!!

Quite possibly the funniest thing I've read anyone post on the net... EVER!

That was hilarious dude.

:thumbsup:


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

DUDE ! I would turn my mother in to the IRS for a bag of those fresh tomatoes !!
Looks like you're doing good so far, let's start slapping color on that rascal!
Oh, don't worry about the cross contamination on the putty & cement, in no time you'll be "one of us" ......... Breathe deeply........


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

T.H......If it helps any one of the things I learned in Vocational School art is to start in the background and work out, like sky, ground, plants, etc. In figures I paint eyes, face, other skin, inner clothes, outer clothes, belts, accoutrements, etc. I.E., paint the "farthest" first, work outwards toward yourself. Works good for me. If you mess up a little you can always add a dab to a shirt or whatever that you 'slopped' on.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

ditto on dabler, trial and error, i have found it easier to do just what was explained by dabbler


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

the Dabbler said:


> DUDE ! I would turn my mother in to the IRS for a bag of those fresh tomatoes !!


You're gonna kill me for saying this, but they will probably wind up getting thrown away.

My wife eats them, but I can't stand raw tomatoes.

Those on my counter need to be eaten like... now.

But we can't go through all the fresh veggies my mom sends. The purple hull and cream peas we freeze. She sends squash, and we eat most of it. Fried, sauteed, squash cassarole.

My freezer is packed full of corn (if you've never had fresh corn, not the plain yellow, it's kinda multi colored, then you haven't lived), peas, squash, okra.

And we always have some onions and bananna and cayenne peppers layin around.

We almost never buy veggies. Even in the winter we have a hard time eating all of the stuff in our freezers.

Anyway. Just thought I'd rub your nose in that. 

Thanks for the advice about the painting process though.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

Texas,

Cornelius looks GREAT so far . If you get paint where you don't want it --- just paint over it . The acrylic paint is thick enough so it will cover up any mistakes. 

Geminibuildups
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

TH,

Don't take me too serious as Dabbler knows...just gotta poke alittle fun! I think your Cornelius kit is turning out GREAT so far. And the pics show us how well you are doing up to this point. Nice job blending the rocks on the base and your seam work doesn't look bad at all. 

BTW: Tomatoes this time of year are really GREAT in New Jersey!

MMM


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## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

Lookin good there, Tex Horror! Keep on crankin'. Don't take anything on here too seriously, jokes here are all in good fun. You got more advice on your first model kit than any of us. No matter how you paint this kit, you are certainly going to look at in in 5 years and want to do it over again anyway. It just works that way. Anxious to see what the finished product looks like.


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

Looks great to me! Nice work! Glad the glue didn't melt the plastic too much. All I could think of was the glue taking forever to set and the solvents eating the plastic. Glad it worked out.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments and encouragment everyone. I really appreciate/need it.

MMM...

Sorry if I got a little defensive there. I was just kinda frustrated at the time.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Texas Horror said:


> MMM...
> 
> Sorry if I got a little defensive there. I was just kinda frustrated at the time.


No worries mate! 

Model on dude!:dude:

MMM


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Lookin' sharp there, TH ol' bean! :thumbsup:


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

here's a tip:

when using the "sanding sticks" for details, mostly gets used on end(s).
with a pair of wire *****, cut tip at angle to give nice point for getting in small areas, as stick gets clogged, just trim a bit and go back at it


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

"Anyway. Just thought I'd rub your nose in that. "

Thanks for the advice about the painting process though.

You are a cruel person T.H. !!


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## painter x (Oct 15, 2006)

Hey Texas Horror I was going through my closet I found some pieces you may enjoy painting. If you Pm me your address I will send them to you.I will include that Freddy bust I mentoined I have two of them I don't need two of them. I remember when I first got into modeling a guy named Whitney Thompson took me under his wing and showed me alot stuff, although when I started out I was into military pieces like planes tanks a few figures. It was the stepping stone that got me to where Im at now. If it was not for him I would probaly never would of been into Figure modeling. Time to return the favor welcome to the hobby.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

painter x said:


> Hey Texas Horror I was going through my closet I found some pieces you may enjoy painting. If you Pm me your address I will send them to you.I will include that Freddy bust I mentoined I have two of them I don't need two of them. I remember when I first got into modeling a guy named Whitney Thompson took me under his wing and showed me alot stuff, although when I started out I was into military pieces like planes tanks a few figures. It was the stepping stone that got me to where Im at now. If it was not for him I would probaly never would of been into Figure modeling. Time to return the favor welcome to the hobby.


Thanks for the offer, but let me hold off for now. I'm having a hard time finding time just to get Cornelius painted.

Working at night, watching my 1 and a half year old during the day while my wife works, well...:freak:

But I'm sure I'll take you up on it soon. I just don't want you to send them till I'm absolutly certain I'll have time to work on them. I wouldn't want them to go to waste.

But thanks again. You guys are awesome.


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## Texas Horror (Jun 8, 2008)

jackshield said:


> here's a tip:
> 
> when using the "sanding sticks" for details, mostly gets used on end(s).
> with a pair of wire *****, cut tip at angle to give nice point for getting in small areas, as stick gets clogged, just trim a bit and go back at it


Thanks Jack.

I haven't gotten a hold of the sticks yet, but that tip will definatly come in handy when I do.


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## jackshield (May 20, 2008)

hey texas, i got a freddy kruger model you might be interested in?
let me know?


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

OK T.H. ...hows about an update?

MMM


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Cornelius looks great! Styrene models a great to get started on, cheap, and easy to get, and look great when your done!


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## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Haven't seen any updates TH, how's it going? 

Here's one I did awhile back.

RK


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## Jaruemalak (Jun 12, 2008)

the Dabbler said:


> Oh, don't worry about the cross contamination on the putty & cement, in no time you'll be "one of us"


Everyone chant along with me...

"One of us! One of us! Dibble-dabble-dibble-dabble We accept him! We accept him! One of us! One of us!"

OK, obscure movie reference mode off.


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## Jaruemalak (Jun 12, 2008)

geminibuildups said:


> One tip though if : BE CAREFUL OF THE SUPERGLUE AND DONT DROP ANY XACTO KNIVES!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I still have a scar on the inside of my left thigh from where, about 30 years ago, when an Xacto knife rolled off the table and, without thinking, I clamped my legs together to catch it!


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

FREAKS! Ha! not so obscure after all,eh? :thumbsup:


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Right! ....even I caught that one


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## Jaruemalak (Jun 12, 2008)

Ahh, yes, Freaks (1932) By Tod Browning... a film about a group of lovable, but misguided, styrene freaks, addicted to making the PERFECT miniature of that car, truck, boat, sub, spacecraft, monster, etc... spending hours and hours researching the smallest detail... working long into the night trying to get the eyes on that figure "just right"... all the while kicking themselves for NOT buying at least one extra of that ONE KIT that they had as a kid...

OK, maybe that version ISN'T what Browning made (and I LOVE his version), but it is a LOT closer to my own 'freaky' life, for the last 40+ years!


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

WHO you calling lovable ???


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