# 6.5 HighWheel Trimmer



## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

Help! I have a craftsman walkbehind trimmer with a thrown rod. One of the kids ran it out of oil on a long fence row. I took the head off and the piston was not seized, nor was there any scoring or ring damage on the cylinder and piston surfaces. The only damage I can see without splitting the case is the journal on the crank has some light scars but no deep gouges. I didn't want to spend a hundred bucks on a crank if this one could be turned for an oversized rod. The rod looks like about 20 dollars give or take. OR should I scrap this and chalk it off to experience. Every small engine I own is either a Briggs or a Honda and this is my first experience with a Tecumseh. 

The labels say the engine is a LEV120.361045B and so far all I have been able to determine is that is has an extremely heavy flywheel for the type of service and it has an oil pump instead of the splasher. Any comments from the more experienced? 

Another option would replace it with a Briggs but would need one with same characteristics of heavy flywheel, same shaft size, key and length for same pulley. I bogged down real quick trying to cross reference. 

edwardj


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Looking at a parts breakdown on your engine I don't see an under size rod available. You might just want to polish the journal with some emery tape and install an new connecting rod and hope for the best. I have done this with mixed results, sometimes they last sometimes they don't. 

All engines that don't have a counter balance weight on the crankshaft use a heavy flywheel, this is so you can start the engine easier.

The crankshaft dimensions are whats important if you want to install a new engine, diameter, length, key ways and such are really what matter, most all engines have a similar bolt pattern and will mount up on your frame.


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

I had a similar Slick50 suggestion from one of my co workers. I keep forgetting this is not a high compression package. I am leaning towards a little polish and a new rod. When I pulled the keepers on the piston pin, it all came apart so fast I failed to notice which way is up and I don't have a rebuild doc. Way is up for the piston and which way for the oil hole for the rod? I feel like the rings should be 180 degrees out to minimize blowby at the gaps....
Also the rod is stamped "13" directly above "25-0-45" on one of the valleys, and no other numbers. I think I need a 36777 rod according to what I have found on the internet.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

This service manual covers your engine. You should also get a new sump and head gasket for your engine.

That is the correct part number for the rod, and the Sump gasket is 37609 and 37796 for the head gasket.


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

I can't thank you enough for the help, and especially the link. I will get a rod and some gaskets and stuff and move forward. I really hated to see this thing go into a dumpster because of a disgruntled parent. I never wanted to spend that much money for a weed-eater but this thing should be a real work horse down on the lake shore line. Edwardj


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## uushaggy (May 7, 2008)

*More Thanks!!!*

Hey all,

I just cracked open my Tecumseh LEV 120 from my high wheel mower today to look into a problem with the oiling system. OIL WAS EVERYWHERE...carb...heads...crankcase (wait...that's a good thing). The mower had obviously been tipped....it was a yard sale special. 

At first no big deal it started then after a few minutes it started to freak out, making weird noises etc. I shut it down. When I openned up the engine I expected metal shards everywhere, but that was not the case. All roatating assemblies look and roatate fine. The head gasket looked a little beat, but that's really it. 

Oh well I'm gonna run the whole thing through my parts washer and clean her up. I got a little disassembly left so maybe I'll find a suprise somewhere then.

At any rate, thanks so much for the links. Makes things much easier!!!


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

What was the final outcome on the LEV120.....I am almost finished and ready to start; had a little delay due to finding a bad head gasket at the last minute. Mine was a gimme; the kids ran it out of oil and it threw a rod. I dismantled it and it looked like new inside except for the rod damage. I polished and installed a new rod and everything looks perfect. Before I took it down it was completely covered in oil and muck from never having been cleaned up after use. I don't think I have ever seen a small engine as dirty as this one and it had always been in a barn out of the weather.
I did notice a small crack in the crankcase breather line back to the carb and the air intake was so clogged up I don't see how it ever started. I guess the final test is about to happen!


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

This is for 30yearTech; I ran into some problems with the part numbers on this thing; finally took the sump down to an old timer and the first thing he said was" This ain't really a Tecumseh, it's a Vector engine, they only made it a year of two and the parts listing is scrambled.....
What is a Vector (Victor) engine?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Well... A Vector engine is a Tecumseh engine, it's just one of many models they produced. A Vector engine model number should start with the letters "VLV"

What is the issue with the part numbers??


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

On an additional note, a LEV series and Vector engine a not very similar engines, it's not like the starter shroud (where the model numbers are located) are interchangeable on these two engines. Where did the model numbers you posted come from?


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

I have the Craftsman docs that came with it. Listing a Model 536.773520 for the trimmer; decal on the engine says 143.996512.On the web sears.pammar crossed the engine to a LEV120-361045B. I saw a oil pump version and a splash version of the same two 195 cc blocks. The docs that came with this specific trimmer appeared to be correct when I tore it down. The rod number 36777 (from docs)was correct but the sump gasket 35261 was not right. It was way too big. When I took it back he went back and pulled one from stock without any packaging and it matched the flange, so I left. This same guy sold me a rod 36777 for 16 because "it's been on the shelf ten years and I really don't know what it cost us. Saved about 10 bucks and had a perfect match to the old one. It could be one rod comes with the dipper and the other doesnt; I don't know why the gasket numbers were wrong. Any way I polished and polished and actually put a mic on it as best I could and it looks pretty round to me and smooth...after assembly, the crank manually turns without too much effort. I didn't see any score marks on the oil pump plunger but I sure would like to know if it is alright. I put the champfered edge towards the gear (saw that somewhere in your pdf)
and it all went back together just right the SECOND time. I found out why the rod cap is offset on this version....I think the japanese call this 'interference' 
The gears went dot to dot for TDC and I noticed both valves were closed and the key slot was away from the block when everything fell into place. The oil pump plunger went into the slot and the gov spool mated up smoothly. I think all I need now is a head gasket and some fuel.....(after I get all the tin back on). If this thing works I may have save my self a pocket full of change. It's my first open heart on a tecumseh!
I really like this thing and if you could tell me a direct Briggs replacement within a hp or two I really would appreciate it.


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

It's not that I don't have any faith in our repair....I just want to replace the engine when this one has expired> WITH a BS. And thank you for your help and kindness. The internet is truly an example of mans greatness.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Based on the craftsman engine numbers you posted the correct head gasket is Part # 36787 and the sump gasket is 35261. These parts numbers change to 37796 and 37609 respectively. I wonder if the first sump gasket you were given was perhaps not marked with the right part number and therefore would not fit. 

The engine that you have numbers for is not a "Vector" engine. I would not worry about the oil pump plunger, these are very basic pumps and extremely reliable. I would bet that the engine will be alright with this repair. I will see if I can find the dimensions for your engine and find a comparable B & S model number for you that will work in it's place. :thumbsup:


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

Thank you; you've been great. The docs lists the head gasket at 36787. After this latest, I will walk in with the old one and ask "for one of these". 
Great! If this one works, maybe it will be a looong time before I replace it. While I had the crank out I took some measurements. The big end was 2 7/8 in from end to start of flare for seal and about another 3/8 allowance for the flange housing. It had inside threads 24 tpi and the depth was 1 and 9/16; All on a 7/8 output shaft. one slot key 3/16 full lenth. A female drive pulley with pressed in slot for the drive shaft....
The flywheel end was 2" with a 7/64 key slot (I had to squeeze the new one in with pliers, after I nipped off about 1/8th on the pointed end....weird.
Thanks again


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## uushaggy (May 7, 2008)

My LEV120 looks fine, got it cleaned up and all parts look fine. Just replacing the gaskets and putting it back together. Gotta order the gaskets tonight.


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

I finally rounded up gaskets and such, have the engine back together and running. I couldn't get it to idle very smoothly and since I didn't know how it ran before I got I just ran it for a few minutes, cycled it down and checed oil and temp and I noticed it was hard to start again so I primed a bit and started it up. I ran down a fence row and it was working fine so I shut it down and called it a success.....but today I went out and had a heck of a time starting it and the crankcase was too full of oil and gas; so I guess the carb needs some attention and that is my next hurdle. I was thinking about flushing it after an hour or so but I guess that won't be necessary now!
Ed


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The carburetor may have been an issue for awhile, maybe was run with oil diluted by gas and caused the rod to be thrown.

Good thing you checked it. :thumbsup:


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

You are absolutely right....I think I just answered another question. When I disassembled it was clean as new; no sludge anywhere, other than remains from the rod....


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## edwardj (Oct 1, 2005)

This is for 30yearTech....I've had the trimmer back into service for about a week or two now. I've run it about two hours total and it seems to have settled down to a predictable operation. I need input on some observations.

I am assuming it has a lean burn carburetor because no matter how hot the engine is you still have to squirt it a couple of times to get it running, and I have never seen one bit of smoke come out the exhaust. Obviously the rings and compression are good. The plug looks clinically clean, a kind of talcum powdery off white with no rich burning indications. I think it should start easier than it does but I have nothing to compare it with.

Another observation I have made is excessive oil on the lower crankcase after running it for a session; 15 minutes or more. I've cleaned this thing with the pressure washer to make sure it was oil free on the surface; but after running a while it gets wet from some sort of seepage or something. I suspected the little rubber seal in the filler tube and checked it. It looked OK but maybe I should replace it. Also is it normal for the engine to blow oil out the filler tube if you remove the cap while it is running....my other mowers don't do it like this one. I was wondering if maybe I put the oil pump gear in upside down or something....JUST questions and curiosity. Is it possible to have too high an oil pressure and the seepage coming from around the crank seals. I put in new oil; straight 30 non detergent; maybe I should go to a lighter oil........Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Edwardj


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Most likely the oil is coming from the dipstick tube seal, that is where I find the leak most of the time. I don't think the oil pump in this engine can deliver enough pressure to force any oil out of the seals, unless the seals are not any good.

There are some O-Rings that seal the nozzle in the carburetor, they may not be sealing good and allowing some air to pass through giving a little leaner mixture and causing a little hard start issue.

You should use a 30 wt HD motor oil. It's not unusual for oil to come out the filler tube when the engine is running, if you remove the filler cap.


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