# Ugh. Refit Time Again....



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Ok. I have two kits to choose from. The older one has been on the shelf for 3-4 years. The newer one is about a year old. I am tempted to construct the newer one and experiment with the Aztec decals. Something like "bright white" top coats and "pearl gloss" final coats, then apply the decals to see if the pearl gloss can bring the Aztec out more. Not sure. Opinions? 

Here are some pics. First things first. Gotta spend a few hours attaching resistors to LEDs and building up the flasher/strobe circuit. Stay tuned for updates. They may be few and far between, but they'll trickle in.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Here is my last build for those who haven't seen it...


----------



## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

"Ugh", you say?! About building a Refit Enterprise?! HERESY!!! 

Kidding aside, nice work on the prior build!


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Ugh???? Have fun is all I got to say!!!!:wave:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

I say "Ugh" because it's a lot of work building this kit to look halfway decent. Yes it's fun, but very time consuming. That's all I mean by it.


----------



## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

zenomorp said:


> I say "Ugh" because it's a lot of work building this kit to look halfway decent. Yes it's fun, but very time consuming. That's all I mean by it.


Aye...but so worth it when the end-product is as good as what you've come up with before! Have fun!!


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

LEDs all "resistor'd" up. 50 5mm and 50 3mm. That's it for tonight. Off to bed. Stay tuned. 












3mm..












5mm...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

The light is actually much more diffused in person than it appears in the picture. The other lights in the nacelles (except the chillers of course) are done the same way as above. Just wanted to show how I do it. 

:wave:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I'm loving the detail you show, very impressive & inspirational work!


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Chrisisall said:


> I'm loving the detail you show, very impressive & inspirational work!


Thanks. Just frosted the Chiller clear pieces and ready to shoot them with some Clear Blue on the back side. As for the other side, I plan on covering it with some black vinyl and cutting out the middle pieces rather than trying to paint the lines black. You'll see what I mean.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

What resistor strength & voltage, if you don't mind my askin'?


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Chrisisall said:


> What resistor strength & voltage, if you don't mind my askin'?


1/4 Watt, 520ohm, +/- 0.25%

These are a bit lesser value, but will work just as well....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-pcs-470...378?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c0c2197a


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Using Vinyl...MUCH easier than masking and painting the Chiller Lines. I still have some touch ups and final work to do on them, so these are just preliminary pics...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

amazing.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Keep going...


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

I NEED to know where you got that flasher board from!

That is EXACTLY what I am looking for for month for my own build!
I found a lot but none where you could determine the speed yourself. 

So .. pretty Please .. tell and / or provide a link on where to order from


----------



## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

garabon, if you can make circuits, you should be able to replace the resistors on pins 6,7,8 with variable pots and get the timing that way.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Nice work Zeno! Looks like you're gonna knock another one out of the park. :thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Garbaron said:


> I NEED to know where you got that flasher board from!
> 
> That is EXACTLY what I am looking for for month for my own build!
> I found a lot but none where you could determine the speed yourself.
> ...


Here you go...(you need the last one...the $35 one)...

http://www.dlmparts.com/electronics.html


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

(recommend 1080p)


----------



## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

Hey, zenomorp...couple of quick questions: How far into the ship does the rod/tube fit? I haven't actually seen the re-released kit, so I don't really have a sense of what the stand/mount joint looks like. And does the rod/pipe need to be as long as what is supplied, or can it be cut shorter to improve vertical weight distribution (i.e., make it less top heavy)?

Thanks! Looking forward to watching this build!


----------



## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

nice work.The videos really explain how you get such good results in ales daunting way.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

1701ALover said:


> Hey, zenomorp...couple of quick questions: How far into the ship does the rod/tube fit? I haven't actually seen the re-released kit, so I don't really have a sense of what the stand/mount joint looks like. And does the rod/pipe need to be as long as what is supplied, or can it be cut shorter to improve vertical weight distribution (i.e., make it less top heavy)?
> 
> Thanks! Looking forward to watching this build!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Lovin' it.


----------



## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

zenomorp said:


>


AWESOME!! Thanks! :thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

1701ALover said:


> AWESOME!! Thanks! :thumbsup:


No problem! Still waiting on the port nacelle to fully dry, so in the mean time, I started the stbd one...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks for looking and stay tuned...

-Mike

:wave:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

zenomorp said:


> Here you go...(you need the last one...the $35 one)...
> 
> http://www.dlmparts.com/electronics.html


Ahh.. DLMs .. why didn't I see the speed regulators on this version before? 
Geee... was about to order this couple of month back.

Thanks Zeno, now I can finally pace my order and finalice the electronics
on my build . 

Also great work on yours. Will follow your progress.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Thanks for all the great detail shots of your build. It is looking really good. :thumbsup:

One question though. How are you ensuring that you avoid shorting out wiring with all that metal tape?


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> Thanks for all the great detail shots of your build. It is looking really good. :thumbsup:
> 
> One question though. How are you ensuring that you avoid shorting out wiring with all that metal tape?


All of the LED's legs and solder points are covered with heat shrink...


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Super. Thanks for the info. :thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

ARGGHHH!!!! I just realized that in my haste to begin this build, I forgot to do the "spotlights" on the registry areas of the nacelles. I wasn't going to really worry about it, but the RCS thruster LED (the one I shaved down flat) quit working on the port nacelle. Dammit. 

So because of both those issues, I'm going to cannibalize the nacelles from the other kit I have and re-build them. The last 2 days or so have pretty much been a waste of time.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

zenomorp said:


> The last 2 days or so have pretty much been a waste of time.


Honing skills in whatever venue is never a waste of time, bro.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Nacelle "re-build" is successfully underway. One good thing about it...it gives me the chance to do what I forgot to do the first time around. It may not look like much, but it gets the job done....


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Good old "Raytheon effect" still making a convincing apperance. 

But I prefer the GTS* method for the nacelles too, it's not 100% screen accurate but it's a true spot light 

* "Garbarons true spot" method = using small LED/SMD to create practical flood effects but requires extra effort in modifying the kit parts, especially the bridge section, to get what you want. Haven't figured out how to do the inner nacelle spot though.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Garbaron said:


> Good old "Raytheon effect" still making a convincing apperance.
> 
> But I prefer the GTS* method for the nacelles too, it's not 100% screen accurate but it's a true spot light
> 
> * "Garbarons true spot" method = using small LED/SMD to create practical flood effects but requires extra effort in modifying the kit parts, especially the bridge section, to get what you want. Haven't figured out how to do the inner nacelle spot though.


Wow! That's ridiculously awesome. You have given me some things to re-consider...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Keep Going...


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Word of advice put a piece of paper or thin white sheet styrene between the LED and that forward nacelle outboard grill light panel. It should remove the light leaking all the way to the back of the warp grill of the nacelle since the outboard grills have no glow to them at all, the inner ones have. 

I had that problem of the outboard bussard light panel bleeding light all the way to the end too and adding a diffusion layer, in this instance a piece of paper, reduced the intensity enough to give the correct looks, see -here- (camera exaggerates the glow).


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Garbaron said:


> Word of advice put a piece of paper or thin white sheet styrene between the LED and that forward nacelle outboard grill light panel. It should remove the light leaking all the way to the back of the warp grill of the nacelle since the outboard grills have no glow to them at all, the inner ones have.
> 
> I had that problem of the outboard bussard light panel bleeding light all the way to the end too and adding a diffusion layer, in this instance a piece of paper, reduced the intensity enough to give the correct looks, see -here- (camera exaggerates the glow).


Well, it's too late to do anything to the inside now, but I'll try and apply that idea to the other one. As for this one, I'll have to come up with something else. Maybe sanding the clear piece or "opaquing" it somehow.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

garbaron said:


> -here-


nice.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

zenomorp said:


> As for this one, I'll have to come up with something else. Maybe sanding the clear piece or "opaquing" it somehow.


Paint it white? Light will still come through.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Ok. Roughly 5 days after starting this project and having to re-build both nacelles using parts from my other kit, here's where I'm at. Don't worry. All the filling and seam work will be done as part of paint prep. These are unpainted and all done regarding lighting. I'll post a quick video of the strobes a bit later. Thanks for looking...:wave:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Wow Mike, This is looking real good so far! 

Your previous build is a beautiful sight too.

Mike.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks! I am still waiting on some parts from Culttvman (hanger bay and more window masks) but I will start the saucer here soon. I will also make some changes from the last build. Thanks for looking.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Thanks for making.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Expose the plastic to a flame to heat it up and contour it to the shape you desire...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Phasers, FIRE!!!


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

I based the area of illumination on the screen shots of the "-A" from ST:IV. The hot spots will of course be less prominent once paint is applied.


----------



## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

I always file the end off LEDs to diffuse them more


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Zenomorp, if you haven't sealed up the hull, you might want to consider softening the edges of those Raytheon pools so they look more like pools of light. Cut a sheet of card to the same shape as the pool, but smaller. Stick a piece of fun-tak or rolled up tape in the middle, so it sits in the middle of the foil "hole" inside the hull, but raised up from the plastic. Spray black around the edges of the card, in the space between the card and the foil. Because the card is raised up, the black edge around it will be soft. Test on scrap, of course.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

SteveR said:


> Zenomorp, if you haven't sealed up the hull, you might want to consider softening the edges of those Raytheon pools so they look more like pools of light. Cut a sheet of card to the same shape as the pool, but smaller. Stick a piece of fun-tak or rolled up tape in the middle, so it sits in the middle of the foil "hole" inside the hull, but raised up from the plastic. Spray black around the edges of the card, in the space between the card and the foil. Because the card is raised up, the black edge around it will be soft. Test on scrap, of course.


Thanks SteveR, I'll see if I can't get that method applied.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Arboretum is painted. Nothing fancy or special. Just enough to get the job done...


----------



## stowe (May 29, 2003)

Hey Zeno,
What type of metal tape are you using and where can one get it?
Thanks!


----------



## nautilusnut (Jul 9, 2008)

Question. The Vinyl masking on the engine grills. Is that something that's available, or did you just apply black vinyl sheet to the grills and carefully trim away the areas that are blue?


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

stowe said:


> Hey Zeno,
> What type of metal tape are you using and where can one get it?
> Thanks!


I have a 1" and 2" roll. 

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-aluminum-f...leOneBox-3M-ALUMINUM-FOIL-TAPE-425-M0W7G3TRKR


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

nautilusnut said:


> Question. The Vinyl masking on the engine grills. Is that something that's available, or did you just apply black vinyl sheet to the grills and carefully trim away the areas that are blue?


I just cut them off the perimeter areas around the Aztec Dummy Templates that I had for my other kit.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

So I didn't like the plain look of the Observation Lounge, so I went digging and found an old JT Graphics supplemental decal sheet that included some Federation decals. I removed the lounge since the saucer wasn't glued together yet and applied the decal. Also changed some colors. Just want to share...:thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

:wave:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Nevermind...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Go ahead, make me say wow one more time!


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This is one of the most well documented threads I have ever seen. Thank you so much and congratulations fou your amazing work. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Fernando Mureb said:


> This is one of the most well documented threads I have ever seen. Thank you so much and congratulations fou your amazing work. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks! Means a lot.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

(recommend 1080p)


----------



## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

Nice work so far!

When i lit my last big E, i made the lower saucer reg spotlight a bit wider than the 2 phaser spots.....just for variety!

Rich


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Great work and am surprised that one LED can light up the view port clusters so well. I used two 5mm LEDs soldered next to each other and they sit behind each cluster at about one third of the saucer radius, you can see the top saucer LED placement -here-. 

One nitpick regarding your strop lights: the top saucer only has the one at the bridge being a fast ACL strop. The ones to each side of the impulse deck and the one at the bow do blink at the same slower speed as the ones to port and starboard. 

@ Izzibus

Your Refit looks great!


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

It really helps "sell" the Raytheon effect if it has the right hotspot in the right place (and if the pool of light can be seen as "connected" to the imaginary light source). Nice work, Lizzybus!


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

zenomorp said:


> Thanks SteveR, I'll see if I can't get that method applied.


I forgot to say that you might want to try softening the edges more as you get farther from the "source." That would mean tilting the card mask slightly so it sits a bit closer to the hull nearer the light source. The best thing is to actually shine a penlight on the hull in the right location and see what it looks like, then copy that look.


----------



## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

Thank you Steve and Garbaron, and sorry for the brief hijack!!!!

Rich


----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Zenomorp - do you have a photo or diagram which shows how you use 1 LED to light up the windows?


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

lizzybus said:


> Thank you Steve and Garbaron, and sorry for the brief hijack!!!!
> 
> Rich


No problem and I'll say great job as well!!


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Garbaron said:


> Great work and am surprised that one LED can light up the view port clusters so well.
> 
> One nitpick regarding your strop lights: the top saucer only has the one at the bridge being a fast ACL strop. The ones to each side of the impulse deck and the one at the bow do blink at the same slower speed as the ones to port and starboard.


Oh man! I knew that and just spaced on it. So glad you mentioned it as I would have been full of ire if I had sealed everything up like that.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

RossW said:


> Zenomorp - do you have a photo or diagram which shows how you use 1 LED to light up the windows?


Ok. I know this doesn't look like much or very professional, but I couldn't give 2 rat's sphincters about the looks of the inside as long as the outside ended up the way it's supposed to be. That being said, here is the answer. A strategically placed 5mm LED aimed at the middle of the window will have the ambient light given off fill the windows behind it and the light given off from the front will fill the windows in front...





















Make sure to block the light from traveling down the open areas...












Then simply apply foil tape over the area to reflect as much light as possible...












And this is the end result. ALL the windows were lit this way using only one 5mm LED...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

:wave:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Fixed the flashers/strobes...(Recommend 1080p)


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Japp.. thats it!


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Wow! You're really making quick work of this one. :thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> Wow! You're really making quick work of this one. :thumbsup:


Not working right now. Still taking time off from working overseas for 2 years. Quick update...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

5:01 AM. Saucer wiring and assembly is DONE!! :thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Looks great!


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Hangar Bay arrived....


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Love that DLM ST5 bay. If I do a second build of the PL 1/350 Refit, its gonna be the Ent-A, will have this shuttle bay and use the Aztec decals.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Yeah. It's pretty cool. Here's a quick update...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

The build looks really great, so far! And I definitely like the ST5 landing bay. The large, open bay that comes with the kit looks great displayed separately, but if you build it into the ship, you can't see a good chunk of it. Should I ever get around to building a 1/350 Refit with lighting, etc., I definitely plan to use the STV bay and shuttles, even though the exterior of the ship will be modeled to appear as the TMP 1701.

I have to say, I'm on the fence about the Raytheon effect. Having never seen it, in person, with the naked eye, I can't decide if it actually looks like pools of light from an external light source, or if it just looks like back-lit graphics, which would kinda ruin the effect, for me. In photos I've seen posted, it looks good, but photos can sometimes be deceptive, as we all know. So, for those who have done it/seen it, first hand, does it really look as good in person as it does in photographs?


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

That's gonna be a sweet landing bay.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Still needs some touch-up and other things, but here are some preliminary pics. I'll fix it up and take more pics when the build is complete...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

*sigh* awesome.


----------



## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

Wow, that's incredible work!

Sean


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Sweet! I like the shuttle in the garage.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Hey guys. Making good progress. I'm stuck on the deflector. I have it properly opaqued...












...but I need help with eliminating the hot spot in the middle. I've built two of these kits in the past that I have lighted, but I was always disappointed with how the deflector turned out. I need some help and advice. How have you guys gotten rid of the hot spot in the middle? Looking for advice and info on how to create a really good looking deflector (colors, techniques, etc). Thanks!

:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Embrace the hot spot. Love it. Then wax paper it. Diffusion is your friend.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

... and try putting the light source far from the diffusion material.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks guys. I'll play around with it and see what I can produce. In the mean time, major assembly is complete. No "droopy/sagging/misaligned" nacelles for me. That's one of my biggest pet peeves regarding this kit. When I get the deflector figured out, I'll start filling/sanding/etc and light leak work on all the appropriate areas. 

One bad note, none of the lower saucer flashers are working when hooked to the flasher board, but work fine when hooked directly to the power source, so I can only assume something went wrong with the flasher board. That's a prime example of why I mounted it in the base instead of inside the model. Regardless, I'll worry about it later. Here are some pics of the assembled kit. Thanks for following along...


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

:wave:


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

How to deflector: 

- spray the deflector housing inside with several layers of silver 
- take the housing and create a 22mm diameter center hole
- cut a 28mm diameter paper disk
- glue paper disk to the inside of the housing 









(paper disk for test set up, be careful so the glue doesn't soak the paper like it did here )

- get a ~27mm long and 23mm diameter tube 
- light block the tube with black.
- mount blue and amber LED at the rear next to each other but DONT fix them in place yet
- glue tube at the rear side of deflector housing over 22mm hole










- power the LEDs and aim each so it's hot spot is at the centre of paper disk
- if LED positions are found fix in place with AVES or similar thing so you can correct position 

Done you are.

This you get:


----------



## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

anyone thought of using SMD's in the deflector and like 4 of them in a cross pattern ALMOST around the edges but not quite then using hot melt glue to help diffuse the light more?

heres an led with a load of hot melt glue on it


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks for the suggestions on the dish guys. I decided to go with Garbaron's method and came up with this...










Many thanks to him and his suggestion. :wave:


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

You are very welcome. 

Make sure your LED mounting tube is no longer than 28mm otherwise the vertical support beam at the front of the secondary hull will get in the way. I suspect you have not frosted your dish clear part yet, that is why it looks so bright at the centre? Remember, you can always switch the paper for something thicker if you feel the dish is too bright. But its a simple solution with a convincing effect isn't it?


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Zeno, do you ever take a break to sleep or eat? 

She looks wonderful. :thumbsup:


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Garbaron said:


> You are very welcome.
> 
> Make sure your LED mounting tube is no longer than 28mm otherwise the vertical support beam at the front of the secondary hull will get in the way. I suspect you have not frosted your dish clear part yet, that is why it looks so bright at the centre? Remember, you can always switch the paper for something thicker if you feel the dish is too bright. But its a simple solution with a convincing effect isn't it?


Yeah, I ran into that problem, but I made it work. Actually, frosting the dish was the first thing I did. If you go up to the second post on this page, you'll see that it's properly frosted. My camera is what makes it look so hot. I'll try and take a picture with my cell phone to see if I can make it look more like it does in person.

Also, Garbaron, how did you do the white lines inside the dish? They look too even and symmetrical to be hand painted. Are they templates? What's your secret? I'm always just used a toothpick to paint the lines in the past. Never really been too happy with the results. Thanks!


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

zenomorp said:


> Also, Garbaron, how did you do the white lines inside the dish? They look too even and symmetrical to be hand painted. Are they templates? What's your secret? I'm always just used a toothpick to paint the lines in the past. Never really been too happy with the results. Thanks!


Hehe ... I know what you mean I was never sure if I could maks them off crisp enough, never thought on trying it by hand and was looking for an alternate solution. I looked at the studio model and knew what to do.

It's simple: 

- 1mm styrene stripping cut to 10mm length.
- sand the outside of the clear dish to reduce the ridges of its spokes
- glue 1mm x10mm replacement spokes in place with clear part glue



















As I said ... simple.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Awesome. Thanks! I'll see if I can't find some styrene at my LHS.


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

No problem. 

Just mention where you go it from later on.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Garbaron said:


> As I said ... simple.


I think you just gave a bunch of us a small gift here.:thumbsup:


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

You are welcome.


----------



## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Those ribs on the dish look_ perfect_. Very well done.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Dish looks great.

The black paint came on a bit rough eh?
I hope it doesn't turn in to a problem.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The Enterprised was vandalized!!


----------



## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

Garbaron said:


> Dish looks great.
> 
> The black paint came on a bit rough eh?
> I hope it doesn't turn in to a problem.


I'm really enjoying your work on this so far! As i said to Garbaron, it can really suck the life out of you, this model.....

Yeah, that black looks pretty thick and textured.....i take it you'll be sanding it down? 

To "feather the edges of the Spot lights, an easy way is to gently mist the edges (mainly the edges furthest from the light source...) with fine, silver spray....i made a sort of a mask for each spot and just added silver until the light faded properly....(i also had to do some major clean up from over-zealous spraying! Lol!)

Keep up the good work!

Rich


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks guys. Yes. All will be ok.


----------



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Well guys, something's come up that's going to take up most of my free time for the foreseeable future, so this project will be put on hold until further notice. Sorry is you were following it, but it will be a while before I can finish it. I'll post updates when I can. Thanks for the attention so far. 

:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Real life intrusion. We get it. Awaiting further work at your convenience.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

We'll be here when you get back.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

AWW MAN!!! 

hehe  We'll be here when you get back to it. :thumbsup:


----------

