# BRP 1/18 scale



## OvalmanPA

Just figured I'd get our topic up and running here on Hanks old faithful site.

Going to be more than a month before we get racing again at Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies but I'm already getting mine ready to go. Should be a good season because we'll have a few more people running this winter I think.


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## k1m

HEY!...I'm here, I think. 
.......I don't like change and I don't like Smilies! Testing....Testing


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## kanesurfguru

I made it too guys, what happened over at About.dic ? Did they just pull it or was there contreversy?

Anyhow long live the BuRP!!!!!


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## OvalmanPA

Hey Boys how's it goin? Glad you made it here. We'll have to inform Jason and Donalbain of the change too. I don't know how many of our racers had an account on About, maybe that was it?

KSG, if you haven't, check out the discussion in the general area. Hank gives an explaination on why we're back to our "original" hangout. About decided to dump 300 sites due to $$ problems and we were one of the ones that got dumped(on).

K1M, change is sometimes good and smilies are something you better get used to.














Weren't you on the old board or didn't you get on until Hank moved to About?


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## Jason02

Welllll, I guess I found ya, soooo, are they getting rid of all the rc stuff at about?


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## k1m

Something that everyone that runs a BRP should check regularly is the left rear axle bushing. It wears alot quicker than the others and it's critical for keeping your spur/pinion gear mesh set. Even if there isn't much play in the bushing, make sure the bushing isn't turning in the motor plate. If it is, clean it with motor spray and then glue a new bushing in place with 2 drops of super glue. Be sure to have the axle spinning freely in the bushings to be sure they're lined up before you glue them to the motor plate.


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## kanesurfguru

Ovalman thanks for telling me where to go







, to find what Hank said. That is a real bummer. Obviously, no one at about.com is a good business man, or they would see that those 2 sites brough a lot of people there. Well their loss.

K1m thanks for the tip on the bushing, I looked at mine and low and behold it was spinning in the motor plate. So off I go to fix it. 

Long live HANK's boards.....


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## Donalbain

Just checking in.


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## Guest

I'll be here Guys!!!!!


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## k1m

Glad to see everyone is making their way to Hobby Talk! Lets get down to some Q&A.
Bud - what's the word on the new 1/18 scale body? Also, any sign of a SC18/Fun Won kit yet? After your first impression of the micro RS4, do you think it's competitive with the SC18?


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## kanesurfguru

Good question K1m, I have one to ponder, if someone gets an Micro RS4 should we allow them to race with us in the BuRP class?









Hi Don







Welcome.


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## Guest

KIM
I shoud have the new body in two weeks, and I'am working on the SC18 Fun Wons!Yes we did test the Micro RS4! I feel we did a very fair test, the cars are about the same speed on 4 cell. The SC18 slightly faster at front of charge with the micro lasted about 5 min longer, however that is a new car and I was using a rental car that had raced during the summer. The SC18 total blew the micro away in handling seems that the micro has good front suspension and then absolutly no rear suspension which causes it to chatter bad on ashphalt. The same thing happened on carpet but it also wanted to roll over. The car was very slow on 4 cell carpet since we run 6 cell so we put a 6 cell pack in it and mounted it to the lower portion of chassis lower CG about 1/4". With this set up the car was not drivable, 4WD made no difference here.I'am sure the 4WD would be great on a slippery floor. Another thing they say you can use standard radio gear.I installed the JR Python system and it just fit under the BMW body, guess what no place for a lap counting transponder if you use them. If you look at all the pictures of the micro they have what I call racing size rec'v and a big $$ speed control. The nice things with the car are the body and the wheels. I actually made a set of inner wheel hubs for the SC18 and ran there wheels it looked cool. 
I know it sounds like I'am crying here but I just want to tell the truth! Maybe we will see a review in one of the mags comparing both cars,I bet not!!!!!!! And another thing the cost difference is pretty much.
We are going to allow the car in our 1/18th series but they will not count for points.
I have another new BMW going on ebay asap.


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## Guest

I forgot to add this!

BRP cars are Proudly MADE IN the USA









[This message has been edited by bud bartos (edited 09-30-2001).]


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## Guest

that is one reason why i glad i bout a sc18 and didn’t weight for the micro rs4 to come out 
i only have about $100 in the car plus battery and the only thing new in it is a rx crystal and battery and this car is a blast


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## Guest

Bud, 

Just thinking out loud here...you should reconsider not allowing the micro to get points. It'd look good for you to treat them just as if it were AE and Losi running against each other in a race. If your cars were constantly winning, which, from your short review sounds like what would happen, that would be great for business. Just make it a run what ya brung 1/18th scale class unless there becomes a need to divide them up. 

Later,
Will
[email protected]
www.geocities.com/nova1965


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## Guest

willk119
They maybe could run for points but I don't think they would score many!We will have to see how it goes. We are expecting to get 20 guys running in this series and BRP is giving out some nice prizes! Would HPI allow my TC3 to run in one of there challange cup races? I wish I could get Car Action or Extreme to do a heads up test! But then again HPI spends lots more $$ on ads than BRP. We will just keep pluging ahead and improve our line of cars.


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## OvalmanPA

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by kanesurfguru:
> *Good question K1m, I have one to ponder, if someone gets an Micro RS4 should we allow them to race with us in the BuRP class?*</font>


Well I dunno for sure. Our class *IS* called *BRP 1/18 scale spec* so I guess it would have to be discussed a little bit. I figure you'd be one of the first to get one.







I think Adam posed the question and at the time I said no probably not but if they show up I guess it's just bad business from my end to say they can't run huh?

*Bud*, good report on the micro. Maybe we could pass this on at our upcoming season. Hate to have somebody get stuck with an "ill handling" car that can't keep up with the BuRPs.

Visit Team Oval On-line and Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies


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## Guest

OVALMAN
I hope sombody elese can get some time on one to back my statements up! I don't like saying negative things but I'am just speaking the truth.


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## hankster

Bud, Not sure if you had the same experence as me. I drove one at Chicago on carpet. What I found was that the rear end just wanted to snap on me. I'd turn the wheels more and more, then all at once the rear end would come around.


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## 2slow00

Bud how many raced at the last Brat event? I'll be there Sunday.


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## k1m

Ovalman: I think that if someone shows up at the track with a Micro RS4, or any other vehicle, for that matter, they should be welcomed and entered into any class avaliable like always. And what better class to run a 1/18 scale in than our BurP - "Just for Fun Class." I still say the more the merrier. Also, now that we'll have 4 or 5 Ladies racing, a "Powder Puff Derby" might be fun sometime.

<A HREF="http://homepages.about.com/k1m/BuRPs/" TARGET=_blank>
More 1/18 Scale Racing</A>


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## k1m

BUD: Thanx for your honest opinon, no one can ask for more than that!

2SLOWOO: Finally gonna get some seat (finger??) time in that SC18?

WILL: I agree with you. If they aren't competitive, they won't stay...if they are, it'll be fun racing with them. HPI makes KILLER 1/10 scale bodies too! It should be neat to see what they come up with for the micro.

*Proudly Made in USA!*


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## Guest

Hankster>>>>>>> I know what you mean! Those cars had the speed turned way down also, just think of that with 6 cell or 4 cell for that matter.
2 slowOO......... We had 9 racing last time, I think it will be up this week, Slim is coming and a few others bought new cars!


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## 2slow00

Bud I hope there is enough for a B main so I don't have to race you fast boys.


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## 2slow00

Bud I hope there is enough for a B main so I don't have to race you fast boys.


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## OvalmanPA

Kim.............I guess I couldn't agree with you more. I guess my major concern when I first heard about these things is that they would take over the class and be far superior to the BRP cars. Now I don't want to step on any toes here but even in our little "for fun" class we have those that are kind of "serious" about it at times and may decide that they'd rather spend more money on a micro than keep getting beat every week.


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## k1m

#26................
come on - I wanta see that folder flamin'!
(more than 26 posts)


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## k1m

Ovalman: I say let them spend their money, we can settle it on the ozite.
I was missing sigs and email notification...decided to play with smilie crayon - only allowed 8.......


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## Guest

Bud, 

Good point on your analogy of the tc3 racing in the HPI challenge. I hadn't really thought of it that way. I was just picturing that you were running a 1/18th scale class something like 1/10th off road. My thoughts were to just not divide them up in two wheel drive 1/18th, four wheel drive 18th, etc. unless it became necessary. I was thinking -"run what ya brung 1/18th scale" class. 

On your statement of hoping someone else gets one and does a test. I bought one and am assembling it. I'll do a write up on my website after I get it going. No matter how bad or good it is though...I have absolutely no intentions of getting rid of the BRP's. In fact I still plan to get an sc-18...just kind of been waiting on a sc-18 fun won kit to come out









Later,
Will
[email protected]
www.geocities.com/nova1965


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## Guest

Willk119
That sounds great







make sure you put a link to it here and also the Micro folder. I talked to Car Action, but they take a long time to do anything.


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## OvalmanPA

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
> *Ovalman: I say let them spend their money, we can settle it on the ozite.
> *</font>


Hehe.......from what Bud says and the way these sc18 Fun Wons handle I think the money would be better spent on one of them anyway!







Can't wait for carpet. Put a new motor in mine and man are those brushes hard! Going to take all season again to get them broke in.







Oh well, it will be ready for next summers racing.









Hey, any bodies yet? Going to get the one painted for XXTORv2 today and would like to get a couple BuRPs done too. No real hurry, if it gets to cold I always have the garage.


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## Guest

OvalmanPa dip your motor in water at 3 volts for 20 second intervals that should speed up your break in time.This is what the slot car god at parma says to do......


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## Guest

Ovalmanpa>>>>>>>> Just like mr parma said, water dip that motor! Make sure you spray it out good right after dipping it and pay close attention to the com slots, you don't want any build up in them. Another thing to do when you screw the motor in and adjust gear mesh pull the axle out and make certain the motor is not bound up, if it feels tight just tap on the pinion on the teeth not the end, this will line up the bushing.


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## 2slow00

Bud the paint job came out pretty good. It the 1st body i have paited in the 16 years of racing.I can't wait till Sunday at the Brat.


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## Guest

2slow00
I'll try not to run into you!
I think we will have a blast







Is Rich going to run touring?


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## 2slow00

Yes ,Rich is running touring only this season.We race with you guys this week and then one more Mid-West race next weekend. Then its the Brat or Toledo's neww track until next gas season.Don't forget I'm an easy pass.


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## OvalmanPA

Mr. Parma and Bud, I had thought about trying that but wasn't sure how many volts I should use. Now that I have something to go by and a pack that needs taken apart anyway I may just give it a try. 

Didn't you do this with one of your Deathstar motors K1M?


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## k1m

OVALMAN: Bodys should be here by the weekend. Yes, I dipped a Deathstar with 7.2V until the brushes were broke in. It ran much better, but only for 5 or 6 runs....then the comm flew apart. The other Deathstars, seemed to last and run good. They were the cheapest motors we could buy last year. ($11) I'm sure Mr Parma knows the best way to break the motors in. Also I think the motors BRP sells are epoxy balanced, or something that the Deathstars weren't. Maybe he or Bud can tell us more about the difference between various 16d motors.
BUD: Thanx for the motor tip, I'll try that one for sure!
WILL: Is Stampedo here yet?


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## Guest

K1m
Yes the motors we use are epoxied to hold the wingings in place. They are also balanced. I have found that the more you run them the faster they get just don't get them too hot. We will have the 52 tooth spur gears soon and they give the car lots more bottom end.


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## Guest

Guess who has a Mini Z for sale!

BRP is selling a MiniZ on Ebay? lol

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1644583402


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## Guest

How do I setup the tweak on a Burp? 

Do the Fun Won tires fit a SC 18?

Speed Tip-
It made a major improvement in cornering when I filed flat spots on the rear axle for the set screws


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## Guest

K1M, 

The first night I saw the about.com board was closing and everything was moving here, I let Dan (Stampedo) know so I'm sure he's been visiting...just not posting yet. He farms and I think he's been really busy with that lately. 

Later,
Will
[email protected]
www.geocities.com/nova1965


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## Guest

DubyaFO
We have a Micro RS 4 on ebay







the mini Z went long ago! The fun wons tires will not fit on the SC18, But if you have a Fun Wons we sell a chassis converson kit. I hope to have the SC18 Fun Wons ready by Nov.


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## OvalmanPA

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by DubyaFO:
> *How do I setup the tweak on a Burp?
> 
> Do the Fun Won tires fit a SC 18?
> 
> Speed Tip-
> It made a major improvement in cornering when I filed flat spots on the rear axle for the set screws*</font>


Setup of tweek on a O.O. or Fun Won is done basically like this. Take a pencil and lift the rear of the car. If one wheel lifts before the other, grab the front and rear of the car and actually "twist" the chassis the opposite direction a *slight* amount and test again. Now the SC18 Fun Won conversions I've seen if put together right seem to have *zero* tweek right from the get-go.

I haven't really looked at a new SC18 yet but if they are set up at all like the old Oval Outlaws then no, the Fun Won wheels will not fit.


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## 2slow00

Bud I chased the dog and cat around the house with the BRP car. I'm ready for the Brat.


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## Guest

2slow00
Keep that dog and cat fur out of the bushings







I used to do that with my dog but he would catch the car pick it up and run off with it! See you sunday and by the way I might have the first place trophy on display if I can get it in the truck!


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## kanesurfguru

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
> *Ovalman: I think that if someone shows up at the track with a Micro RS4, or any other vehicle, for that matter, they should be welcomed and entered into any class avaliable like always. And what better class to run a 1/18 scale in than our BurP - "Just for Fun Class." I still say the more the merrier. Also, now that we'll have 4 or 5 Ladies racing, a "Powder Puff Derby" might be fun sometime.
> 
> <A HREF="http://homepages.about.com/k1m/BuRPs/" TARGET=_blank>
> More 1/18 Scale Racing</A> *</font>


I agree with both K1m and Ovalmanpa, they should be able to join in the races at the track with the Micros and Tamaiya's, like you let happen last year Rick. But I think once any of them try a BuRP SC18 Funwon conversion, they would rather spend less money and have a lot more fun.









Just my two cents.


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## 2slow00

Bud will you have the strobe lights and speakers attached to the trophy?


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## Guest

Well we had a great turnout at the race today, 73 total racers with 11 running 1/18th BRP's







And as always we all had a blast I only won by about 6" after a race long battle. Took the first place trophy to show off it's 7 ft tall,WOW!! I would have made it taller but it would not fit in the winners house. Testing showed that the new 52 tooth gear is the way to go, even on the SC18 that has smaller tires.


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## 2slow00

Bud what a blast running the BRP car. What was that slow ill handling white car that Pat Barber was racing????????????????


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## Guest

2slowwOO
That was the HPI Micro!!! I passed it about every other lap







OH WELL!


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## Guest

The car handled great and the taller spur gear was the way to go the motor didn`t get hot and had more punch out of the corners.2slow00 needed a anchor draggin behind his car just to slow it down he was going so fast.

[This message has been edited by Mr.Parma (edited 10-08-2001).]


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## 2slow00

MR PARMA I wouldn't have been so fast without the PARMA PSE team behind me. Thanks again. Bud can't wait till next week. I couldn't believe how well these cars handle. its almost like driving 12th scale. But without the hassle.


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## Guest

Geez...would you quys quit talking about the micro...I'm getting to the point I can't even get enthused about finishing the assembly, let alone running it...LOL

Later,
Will
[email protected]
www.geocities.com/nova1965


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## Guest

Will
Did you start it yet or are you still waiting for a kit? It took me 4 1/2 hrs to assemble mine and that didn't include doing the body.
Well have fun


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## Guest

My lhs has had two or three hpi on order for 4weeks if not more I call the other hobby shop in the area and get parts for my brp in less then a week looks like there mit be a brp call in north central Wisconsin this winter
Bud when will the 52 tooth for the ball diff be out


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## Guest

wattson
I hope to have it ready by next week! I have a Micro BMW still in sealed box, sold it on ebay but the bidder never came thru. If you now anyone that has to have on It's $100.00
I will also have the Vette by end of next week


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## Anakist

Hey Bud,

Are you still making those adapters to put tc tires on a pancar???

James


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## Guest

anakist
No we no longer have those, sorry! Did any of you guys in PA test the small airtronics speed control in a BURP? I have had some people as me about it and it seems like someone said it burnt up.


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## 2slow00

Bud can't wait for the next race at the Brat. We will have to take the BRP cars to Toledo when they open.


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## k1m

Bud: The Airtronics ES-01 is not capable of handling 16d motors. KSG found out the hard way!


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## Guest

Bud, 

I got one of the BMW's from Hobby People when they first had them. Started assembly but am having difficulty getting enthused to finish it now....I will get it done sometime though. I really want an SC-18 Fun Won but I want to leave the standard fun wons i have as they are. So, I'll be patient and wait for the kit to come out









Later,
Will
[email protected]
www.geocities.com/nova1965


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## OvalmanPA

Bud, like K1M said one of our racers (KSG) did try one of the lil' Airtronics ESCs and burned it up. The funny thing is he read the directions and decided to try it anyway.









It was all done in the name of science, right KSG?


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## Guest

bud 
if i do get one i am going to wait a year till parts are easy to get
i got to work on getting my 18sc to running good


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## Guest

To YA ALL







I got the sample Corvette body and it looks nice! It will be ready by end of next week. The PN is 261 it will have a wing with mounting hardware and window masks price will be $18.00 The 52 tooth gear will be ready then also PN 365 it will come with center bushing for $6.00







sorry about the price but there is labor in it.
Lets keep this thread in the flaming zone and spreed the BURP!!!!!!!!!


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## k1m

Hi Bud: Any idea when #253 Ferrari that I have back ordered might get here? I'll have to have one of the Vette bodys too! Isn't #365 already Fun Wons diff kit? If the Ferrari comes in, hold on to it, looks like I'll be ordering again soon!

Our carpet racing season starts next month, and by the look of it the 1/18 scale class is going to be hot again this year!


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## kanesurfguru

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by OvalmanPA:
> *Bud, like K1M said one of our racers (KSG) did try one of the lil' Airtronics ESCs and burned it up. The funny thing is he read the directions and decided to try it anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was all done in the name of science, right KSG?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> *</font>


It is always done in the name of science









I still have it, just to remind me how stupid I can be sometimes


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## Impactplayr

We bought 2 SC18's from Marcus and they should be here in a a week. Do the Micro bodies fit the SC well, if so which ones fit better? We are setting up a track in out Garage and are wondering what should we lay down to race on that will work well with the stock tires, we have an area that is about 16'x20' once we take away the drivers area and work benches and are looking for an inexpensive material that can be picked up easily to make room for real car repairs. For barriers we plan on filling old garden hoses filled with sand or 1"x3" boards and laying out oval and road coarses to mix thinks up. Any help would be appriciated.

Also we decided on the BRP cars because we couldn't justify spending $120 on cars that we only plan on racing for 3-4 months of the year and then shelfing until next winter/ rainy season...besides the Micros should be alot more maintenance and the MINI Z's are just junk IMHO.....

[This message has been edited by Impactplayr (edited 10-12-2001).]


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## Guest

K1M
Your right the correct # is 367 for the 52 tooth spur. I just received the Fer. let me know if I should ship just that or wait till you order again.


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## k1m

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by kanesurfguru:
> *
> I still have it, just to remind me how stupid I can be sometimes
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> *</font>


KSG:Throw that dang ES-01 away! I'll be glad to remind you anytime...just ask, I know you'd do the same for me!


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## k1m

BUD: Hold on to the Ferrari, I'll talk to you monday


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## k1m

Impactplayr: With the area you've got you might not need anything, but several other garage tracks around the country are using rolled roofing (tar paper). They say it works good, especially if the floor is cold. Just make sure to lap the paper in the direction you're running. If your concrete is clean and not real smooth you might not need anything. I'm not sure a garden hose is gonna slow them down much either, sand or not! 

These things are a blast! I'll bet you'll end up running them more than you think.
Here's a link to a 1/18 scale track building page that might help give you some ideas.
http://www.mgsweb.com/rc/buds/track.htm


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## kanesurfguru

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
> *
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by kanesurfguru:
> 
> I still have it, just to remind me how stupid I can be sometimes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> </font>
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> KSG:Throw that dang ES-01 away! I'll be glad to remind you anytime...just ask, I know you'd do the same for me!*


There is no doubt in my mind that you would remind me, in a matter of fact I'll bet I wouldn't even have to remind you, you would be able to remember whenever you wanted too









And your right, I would help remind you also







what are friends for?


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## Anakist

Thanks Bud.

Are there any floating around that you have? Or anyone else???

James


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## Impactplayr

We got hold of some 12'x18' carpet that resembles Ozite, and layed it down in the garage, we also made a center island out of 2x4's approximayely 8'x4' with some plastic garden edging surrounding it so the island is about 10' at the apex of both turns. So far all we tested on it was a Bolink legend w/ 6 cells and a reedy firehawk motor....All i can say is WHAT A BLAST!!!!I can't wait to get the SC18's. The only thing we will need now is something to make outside barriers and different layouts for the inside....HMMMM possibly a figure 8 with a bridge......


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## OvalmanPA

Finally got around to water dipping my motor yesterday. Used two cells that I had that seemed to still be good out of a toasted pack. Dipped it three times for approximately 20 sec. each. Not many RPMs out of a two cell pack (don't want a lot anyway!) I'll tell ya but it worked like a charm. Filled the glass up a little to far though so I made a mess.







Haven't water dipped a motor since my first experiment with it on a Twister motor clear back when I first got started about '93-'94. Works great for breaking in these little motors.

Look out now K1M, I'm coming to get ya this year!









Visit Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies


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## Impactplayr

The 2 SC18's I am getting will be here soon, 1 is assembled and the other is not, I am giving the assembled car to my dad. My question is there any tips you have for the SC18 build?? Also any tuning tips? Should we break in the motors or just run them since we will both have brand new motors? 

The track is 12'x18' with a center of 4'x12' so the minimum drive line will be about 25' and a shake that is pure oval (shaped like a tylenol capsule), do you think 4 cells will be satisfactory for our track.


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## 2slow00

Bud are you racing Sunday?


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## Guest

impactplayer
Read above post for motor break in, it does help.
2slowwOO I will be there Sunday we should have about 15 running 1/18th Pat Barber even got one








See you there!!!!!!!!!!


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## Guest

Looking forward to running the Buds car on the big track ing Eastlake, my need to get that bigger gear for that top speed.


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## 2slow00

Sporty is in the game!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ps. You know he has 17 yrs experience.


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## k1m

Impactplayr: If you're looking for BRP tips, I'm working on a Pit Tips Page. It's not done yet, and it will be moving to another server soon, but if it helps.........
http://homepages.about.com/k1m/pittips/

Ovalman: I'm lookin forward to "bangin BuRPs" with ya, but wait til you see what we come up with this year! All I'm gonna say now is Donalbain's 26 lap record is GOING DOWN!!Hehehe!


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## mikemann

Greetings All,

It's been awhile since I've been on here, but I haven't forgotten about my micros/mini's! 

Does anyone have any track plans for 1/18th scale? I would like to build a very nice high quality track. I am actually a new HobbyTown USA franchise owner and really believe in the smaller scale racing. I am seriously considering putting in a 1/18th scale track for fun racing. I just need help with the how to do it?

If anyone has any plans and help I would greatly appreciate it. Feel free to email me offline at - [email protected] if you want to keep this off the fourm.

Thanks Again!

-Mike


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## k1m

Mike: Glad to see you made the move to Hobby Talk! Good Luck with your new track. Here's a link to a picture of Racer's Edge track here in Pa.
http://users.penn.com/~morg/track.html
Or maybe Bud's track in OH.
http://www.brpracing.com/aboutbrp.html
Here's a link about track building:
http://www.mgsweb.com/rc/buds/track.htm
Have you tried the SC18 yet? Most of us are running SC18 Fun Wons here and havin' a ball!


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## TangTester

Hey everyone,

Yes it is true I got mine the other day. I should be ready by Sunday. So look out I plan to be fast!!!!!!


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## mikemann

K1m,

Thanks for those links! That was exactly the stuff I was trying to find. Really appreciate the help.

-Mike


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## 2slow00

Tang Tester good to see you back. You sure have a lot of names,but I guess with 17yrs of experience you would pick up a few.


----------



## k1m

All: Got some new goodies from Bud today, man he gets orders out FAST! I got some of the new 52t spur gears and they do cost $1 more, but they come with new diff balls and an oillite bushing instead of plastic. Also I got one of the new Vette bodys and it really looks HOT! The window masks are a welcome addition. The SC18 now comes with a Vette body too, #112. 
The SC Fun Wons kits are here at last! They come with Da Bug, Heavy Hauler, Street Stocker, or Touring Terror bodys, #131-#134.
A word of advise: If you're thinking about buying a SC18 kit, do it soon. Looks like the price will be going up $10 November 1.
Still the best deal in RC today IMHO!


----------



## 2slow00

TangTester are you going to be ready to race Sunday? Bud save me a Vette body and a couple of the new gears.


----------



## OvalmanPA

K1M...........I'll be talking to you soon.


----------



## TangTester

hey 2slowOO,
I put the radio gear in today. I should be painting the body tommorrow. I am pretty sure it will be fast.....or aleast look good!!.


----------



## 2slow00

There should be a good turn out. I think Bud sold quite a few cars last Sunday. I'll drive slow so you can keep up.


----------



## Guest

2slowwOO
I'll have the parts at the race! The vette came out nice







Pat the tang teaster could be the hot guy sunday, or dan, bud ,pete, dick,tony,ect. ect.
I'am getting more shops that have tryed the cometitions car and the BRP They can't beleive the performance difference. See Ya All sunday


----------



## k1m

I put the 52t spur gear on my SC FunWon last night and I had to remove some plastic around the inner hole on the hub to make room for the oillite bushing. My exacto was handy from removing the plastic bushing, so I started to use it to ream out the hub but ended up using a 5/16 drill bit. The drill bit works MUCH better, I have a bandaid on my thumb to prove it! BE CAREFUL!
Also after moving the motor to reset gear mesh, it didn't want to spin freely. (I checked it by removing the rear axle after the motor screws were tightened up, and spinning the pinion gear.)Bud's tip of tapping on the teeth of the pinion helped free it up. Pretty cool!


----------



## Guest

We had another great race today! 11 racers ran in the first BRP points race at the NORCAR club race. The track was tight and the traction was high. I found out that the BRP cars were picking up too much sticky stuff from the track and bogging them down so we just clead the junk off with lighter fluid and they were back a flying again. You guys may not run into this problem but we had 73 total racers and they use lots of tire stuff.
Good job dickfor making the A main and Pat you ran like you had 17 years of experience


----------



## 2slow00

Bud, I can't wait to put the new Vette body on my BRP.TangTesters looked real good. But what else would you expect from a man with 17yrs of experience!His is one of the most respected names in R/C racing.Dosen't he hold a national championship? I see Len bought a new kit. We should have a lot more racers soon everyone likes this class. All our gear fits in one box. See you Sunday at Eastlake.


----------



## 2slow00

Anyone want to race BRP cars Friday in Toledo?


----------



## Guest

2sloww00
It was a good time! Maybe after the indoor champs some of the big boys will want to play







We'll kick there @#%@% Since we have all that track time, for that matter I dare them to try and race us guys after all if you add up all the experience us BRP racers have, WOW!
I may go to Toledo friday night and take some rentals there, they run legands and maybe they will let me run in that class with the 1/18th cars.
The points will be on the NORCAR web site soon don't forget I do not count, maybe you will win that 7 ft tall trophy


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## 2slow00

That trophy is so big you need a truck to bring it home!


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## k1m

And where would you put it when you got home?








Bud: Thanks for the tip on tire traction remover. Sounds like that ozite has some pretty heavy traffic!
Are you guys running any SC Fun Wons?


----------



## k1m

Bud: Where's the NORCAR site? I tried www.norcar.com and got a farm machinery site. Do they have any BRP stuff there besides your points, like pics of your mini racers?
I'm going to try and post a pic here of ours, hope it works.









[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 10-23-2001).]


----------



## Guest

K1m
The norcar site is http://www.the-big-al.com/norcar/
There are some pics but none of 1/18th. We have two guys that are running SC Fun Wons


----------



## Guest

Bud: wait till this weekend, my b-main win was only the begining
dan medved


----------



## TangTester

you do know I have the big truck with the 8 foot bed!!!!


----------



## 2slow00

Tang, how many years have you been driving that truck?


----------



## Guest

Does anyone use the dropping bulb to charge their packs ? What is the # of the bulb and how long are the charge times while using a simple timer like a Hobbico 900 .
Thanks,
Raz


----------



## k1m

We tried using a dropping bulb when we first got our BRP's. I think my old Protek would still charge them between 2-3 Amps and it only took 12-15 min. Keep your eye on pack temperature, as soon as it starts to get warm, take it off.
I only charge mine at .75-1.0 Amp now and it takes about 50 minutes.(peak) But I think the batterys like it alot better!


----------



## 2slow00

Bud did you make it to Toledo?


----------



## Guest

WOW!!!







what a turnout today. We had 18 racers in the BRP class and there was some great racing. I think we may hit 20 to 25 next week if everyone that has a car runs.
Maybe it's time for the 1/18th scale world champs????
Report from Florida 1/18th race one BRP car 3 Micro RS 4 cars BRP wins buy 5 laps








Later


----------



## 2slow00

Great turnout at East Lake. Bud thanks for your help with my BRP car. Soon there will be more BRP cars than 12th scale.


----------



## aeracer

Does anyone have a picture of the new BRP Corvette body that they could post or email?


----------



## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by bud bartos:
> *WOW!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what a turnout today. We had 18 racers in the BRP class and there was some great racing. I think we may hit 20 to 25 next week if everyone that has a car runs.
> Maybe it's time for the 1/18th scale world champs????
> Report from Florida 1/18th race one BRP car 3 Micro RS 4 cars BRP wins buy 5 laps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Later*</font>


Had fun beating the Mircos yesterday. One even tried to take the belt off and make it a 2wd car - still beat him.Next weekend its Orlando to Superior Hobbies - Victory.


----------



## Guest

BRP is the ticket.Had fun beating the 3 Mirco's.Next weekend it Orlando to Superior Hobbies for the first 1/18th scale race.Victory.............


----------



## Guest

Ae racer
Check our web site on 11-1-01 it will be there then with all the new stuff. http://BRPracing.com


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## 2slow00

Bud when will the pictures from the Brat be posted?


----------



## Impactplayr

Bud- about the new stuff is there any new suprises that you have cooking up for us?? 


BTW: is there any doubt as to who is the king of small scale??? let's see

MINI-Z- 31 posts across 3 topics
Micro RS4- 34 posts- 1 topic
BRP- 124 posts- 3 topics

Gee I wonder!!!! Faster- handles better- looks cooler- doesn't need special equiptment- BRP's rock and i don't see anyone building a better car.......at least til' they reinvent the wheel or Bud hit's the drawing boards agian!!!!LOL


----------



## Guest

Got my first BRP yesterday the SC18 . Looks GREAT ! I am impressed Bud, my daughter and I will get it put together this weekend. Looks like a really fun car. Anyone willing to help me out on email or AOL instant messenger if I have any questions ?
Thanks,
Raz


----------



## Guest

What does everyone use for a charger ? Do I have to go out and buy a new charger ? I am running the basic hobbico 900 for my backyard bashing. I will be starting out with the 4 cell battery pack. I as alot of home hobby builders getting into a new level would like to keep the cost down starting out. I plan on placing an order for my electronics in a couple of days.Does this package look like everything would fit and a good deal ?

Futaba 2PC 2 Channel AM/1 S3003/MC230CR 
800-637-6050 

Manufacturer FUTABA 
Manufacturer Stock# 2PC/MC230 
Product Category 2-Channel Radios - AM Pistol






LXUY19** Futaba 2PC 2 Channel AM/1 S3003/MC230CR 79.99 

This is Futaba's 2PC Magnum Sport 2-Channel AM Pistol Grip Radio
with One S3003 Standard Servo and One MC230CR Speed Control.

FEATURES: This replaces the 2PB Magnum Sport Radio.
Rotary steering and throttle trims.
Three LED battery condition indicators.
Lightweight and ergonomic design reduces fatigue and improves control
Servo reversing switches hidden behind smoked panel.
Speed control operates stock 20-27 turn motors in both forward and
reverse with a reverse disable feature which makes it legal for
ROAR racing. Also has a low battery feature which cuts motor power
when battery level becomes too low.

INCLUDES: One 2PC AM Transmitter w/TX battery holder: No Number
One R122JE AM Receiver: FUTL26**
One MC230CR Speed Control: FUTM0922
One Crystal Set: FUTL92**(75MHz) or FUTL93**(27MHz)
One Receiver Battery Box w/red BEC connector: FUTM1590
One S3003 Servo: FUTM0031
One Servo Accessory Bag: FUTM3551
One Flag Set: No Number
One Switch Harness: FUTM4382
One TX Antenna: FUTM5111
One Pot Adjustment Screwdriver: No Number
Battery Holder: No Number

REQUIRES: Eight AA batteries (EVEP1205).


Thanks so much guys for you help. Is this a new ESC that is replacing the old ESC-100 ?


----------



## Guest

Yikes !
I see that the specs on the ESC says 6-7 cells. Will they work on 4 cells or what happens ?
Thanks,
Raz


----------



## Impactplayr

RAZ- the esc may work, the reason I say may is that both the Duratrax esc-100 and futaba mc-210b are only rated at 6-7 cells, but we know they both work with 4.... I don't want to give you bum info so I won't say totally one way or the other. I will say if you get the futaba radio with only one servo then get the esc-100 it will work.


----------



## Guest

Impact,
Is this the setup you are running or have seen run before ?
Thanks again,
Raz


----------



## k1m

raz:I'm sure you will be happy with the Futaba setup. Can't say for sure about the Mc230 running on 4 cells or not. My advise is to try it and go ahead an go will 6 cells if it doesn't work. You will soon anyway, I bet. Just don't squeeze the trigger so hard!








How big of an area are you planning on running on?


----------



## Guest

Raz: We sell a battery dropping bulb harness that will lower the charge current from that charger for the AA cells #450 retail $9.95
I don't know about that new futaba speeder? I do Know that all others out there will work except the little airtronics. The old Futaba speed controls wold not work on 4 cell so I'am not sure about that new one. Maybe Just go with a Tower Hobbies radio I know those speed controls work and the radio with revers was onlt like $ 85.00


----------



## Impactplayr

My dad is running the MC210 on 4 cells and hasn't had a problem as of yet, currently I am personally running aN LRP runner from a TC3 RTR, the only draw back is it doesn't have a brake...DOH!!!


----------



## Guest

What does everyone use for battery bars for their home made packs ? Buy the ones with tabs , button tops or flat tops ? And what MAH for the packs ?
Thanks again guys, 
Raz


----------



## aeracer

Raz,
I use 600mah Sanyo Transmitter style batteries. I glue them together using Shoe Goo, then solder the cells in series with silver braided wire. Then add wires and a connector. I have found this to be a very cost effective and efficient way of assembling the battery packs.


----------



## OvalmanPA

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by Raz Barlow:
> *What does everyone use for battery bars for their home made packs ? Buy the ones with tabs , button tops or flat tops ? And what MAH for the packs ?
> Thanks again guys,
> Raz*</font>


I'm using fairly stiff 18awg wire to put my cells together along with using strapping tape to help stiffen them up. I think K1M uses solid house wire flattened out to put his together but I'm not sure. As far as button, flat, or tab. Most anything will work. I wouldn't spend the extra on the tabs though since you'll probably take them off anyway. The green cells most are using at our track don't have much of a button but seem to go together well anyway. Just watch you don't split the shrink on the cell and short it out when you put them together. MAH is up to you. The higher they are, the longer you can run. The cells we are using are 1200 NiMH cells.


----------



## Guest

Does anyone know how thick the battery bars are for the SubC battery packs. Do you think if I built a die to produce battery bars for the AA packs for the BRPs. Do you think I would be able to sell any, or is it a shot in the dark ? I don't want to spend this wekend building a die for parts that no one needs.

thanks,
Raz


----------



## k1m

Hi Raz: I'm using battery bars made from flattened out ground wire of 12-2 Romex. I hammer it flat until it's 1/8 inch wide. Clean the wire with steel wool or something before and after hammering and cut them 3/4 inch long before you try and solder them to the batterys. I tin the battery contacts first so I don't get the cells any hotter than necessary to get a good solder joint. A "customized" battery holder from Radio Shack helps hold the cells while I'm soldering.
We're using 1200 mah NIMH AA's that make the little devils fly for 10-12 minutes!
<A HREF="http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPhome.html" TARGET=_blank>
My 1/18 Scale Racing web page has moved HERE</A> 


[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-02-2001).]


----------



## Guest

Hey all you BRP racers see a picture from the last norcar club race here It's on the bottom of the page http://www.the-big-al.com/norcar/pictures4.htm


[This message has been edited by bud bartos (edited 11-02-2001).]


----------



## Guest

So what is the big difference in the Fun Ones and the SC18 ? I know that the chassis look different but is there a drastic difference in handling/performance ? Is a beginner going to still have fun with the Fun Ones ? Also, are the fun ones able ro race in the same class as the SC18 ?
Thanks,
Raz


----------



## 2slow00

Another great turnout in Eastlake. 18 BRP cars. Look for 25 or more in 2 weeks. It was fun with 9 cars per heat. It made for a lot of passing and racing action. Good wrecks too!


----------



## Guest

K1m how has the racing been with you Guy's?
Ours here in Cleveland has been awsome.
2slow00 great job on you A main finish







Sold another 3 kits, we could have up to 30 racing if all would run at one time. Maybe that will happen after the champs.


----------



## marioparnelli

These BRP cars are a blast! Thanks 2sloww00 for nagging me into getting one.







Sooner or latter 2sloww00 we are going to be able to race each other until then I will have to be content knocking Don off the track!


----------



## OvalmanPA

Bud.......just ran our first race of the year yesterday. Had 11 cars show up for the first week! K1M whooped on us all.







He ran a 31 pace compared to my 28 and the third place drivers 28. It appears that the 52t spur has a real advantage in the torque department. I'm still using the 46 and he could really pull me everywhere on the track.

Visit Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies shortly for full results.

Raz.........the major difference between the SC18 and the Fun Wons is the chassis and the wheel size. The SC18 uses a pretty small wheel and the Fun Wons use a 1/12 scale size wheel. The chassis are also different in that the SC18 uses a blue fiberglass chassis and the Fun Won uses a kydex chassis material. This has all changed now though because Bud has Fun Won SC18s that come with the blue chassis. Oh yes, the Fun Wons are also a little wider. As to if they can run with each other in a race? We have mostly Fun Wons (Kydex and fiberglass chassis) racing at our track but there were also 2 people running SC18s. So yes they are both competitive with each other.


----------



## 2slow00

Thanks Bud. Mario get to work! I'll see you tomorrow if your still going to Areo Tech?


----------



## k1m

Bud: Our first week of carpet racing was last weekend, Ovalman has the stats. Very happy with the 52t spur - that matches our track ALOT better! And motor temp was much lower.








To be honest, our track layout has changed this year, so 31 laps is just the start. I'm sure we can do better. We had some new racers (Truck class)this week who had never seen BRP cars before and they were VERY interested. Some of them also race pancars, and they were impressed with the SC Fun Wons. 
We also did something different this year, with 11 racers and 10 transponders, Rick setup two mains instead of running us all together. I think it'll work out better this way for everyone, although the "swarm" isn't as cool.(we all chase each other around in circles after the race is over......)


----------



## marioparnelli

2slow00, we be teching around 10:00


----------



## aeracer

K1M- What brand of batteries are the green 1200mah NiMH ? Where can I purchase them?
Thanks,
Ross


----------



## Jason02

I'll be racing my BuRP this coming Sunday, so that will add to your car count!

[This message has been edited by Jason02 (edited 11-07-2001).]


----------



## k1m

AERacer: We don't really know what the green AA's are, we call them "Kryptonites". We certainly don't need 1200mah in the BuRPs to run 5 minute races, but I've found that the voltage stays alot higher at the 4-5 minute mark than with the 700mah Sanyos I was running. I must have bought 5 dozen of these cells from KaneSurfGuru over the last year. They seem to hold up and I'm using them in the BuRPs and my transmitters.
Jason: Get "Da Bug" fixed up, I'll bet you'll like 2 mains better, but we gotta have more than 10 racers.


----------



## Guest

Hey all you racers interested in 1/18th scale racing








Check out our latest kit!!!

www.BRPracing/112.html

[This message has been edited by bud bartos (edited 11-08-2001).]


----------



## 2slow00

Bud good luck racing at the Dive Shop this weekend. How many 4 cell pack did you make up? See you at the Brat. You guys from PA. should come over some Sunday. Or maybe we could meet somewhere in the middle and have a shoot out.


----------



## OvalmanPA

2slow...........that would be cool but we run Sundays too and being track owner I can't go anywhere come Sunday but the track.


----------



## rduncan

K1M - Since the batts last quite a some time has anyone considered running longer races? I was thinking of trying to get some guys to run say 12 or 15 minute races.


----------



## 2slow00

OvalmanPA maybe we can work it out at a later date. These cars are great. I raced 10th gas onroad this summer and this is like a vaction. Every thing in one bag and no mess.


----------



## k1m

RDUNCAN:We still run 4 minute heats in the rest of the classes, but the BuRPs run 5 min. But when we're practicing or just playing, we do run that long. The motors used to get really hot but running the 52t spur has helped that alot.

2SLOOW:"Eastern BRP 1/18 Scale Nationals", huh? Hehehe! I'd probably be crazy enough to meet you halfway to rub off some of your paint. I'm sure it'd be quite a time! they are like a Vacation, too...makes you remember that it's supposed to be FUN!

Bud: Nice pix on the_big_Al's site!You look good rubbing elbows with the mayor. You've got quite a crew there in Ohio. We're pretty lucky to still have our local track here after so many years, we've made alot of good friends.


----------



## Guest

Got my new Futaba 2PCKA radio setup with MC230R ESC. I sure hope it works on 4 cells. I guess I will hopefully find out this weekend . Man, these ESC are small ! Well, I am readng the manual right now, so I know what to do. Just wanting to let everyone know I am getting closer.
Thanks,
Raz


----------



## Guest

We raced the 1/18th BURP in Toledo friday nite. The guys there had never seen them run and they were impressed







We only had 6 racers with some of the fastest racers in the country trying some laps after each heat.By the way I won YA HOOOOOO I also ran my touring car,wow that thing is BIG after just running 1/18th this season and having to work on the TC3. I like the 1/18th much better simply no hassle fun.


----------



## Guest

Lets see if I am understanding this correctly. I am adding my radio system in the BRP this afternoon. I ordered the Futaba system mentioned above. Please help me out here guys. O.K. , by the directions and the pics, it look like the steering servo mounts on its side, my servo arm has four arms on it. So I am going to have to at least trim off one that hits the chassis bottom or maybe just trim off three of the four tabs. I am going to have to lay it on its side with the servo arm on the left side ( driver's side )with the arm straight up and center .


Which also means that I will have to trim off the servo mounting plates as they will hit the steering arms correct ?


Then I run one tierod end into the steering arm and one into the remaining servo arm and connect them with the collar with a set screw in it.

Please correct me if I am wrong,
I would really like to have this zipping around the house by tomorrow.
Take care all you BuRPs,
Raz


----------



## Impactplayr

Yes, what you said sounds right. Hope all goes well.


----------



## k1m

RAZ: Sounds like you've got the idea, I do have a few suggestions. Mount your servo last. Then you can hook up all the wires and the battery and center your servo. You need to have the steering trim set in the middle before you mount the arm that the tie rod hooks to. That way it will be straight up when your radio is on and trim is in middle. I also suggest you buy a "servo saver" made by Kimborough #114 it replaces the arm on the servo that the tie rod hooks to. There's a spring inside it that "gives" alittle when you hit something and protects the servos gears. It's cheap insurance for $4.00.
More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips/


----------



## Guest

O.k. guys, I need to charge the battery pack and don't have a dropping bulb yet. I run timed chargers like the Hobbico 900. What is the best way to bo this until I receive my dropping bulb ? Do I put it on the charger for 5 min. and let it trickle charge the rest or trickle charge the whole pack ? How long would you trickle the pakc ?
Thanks so much , you guys are the ticket ! I just wish I had someone that lived near me that was experienced in this racing. We don't have any central Iowa racers that read this board do we ?
Thanks again,
Raz


----------



## Guest

O,K, Guys I got the BRP together and trickle charged the battery pack. I am running it around the livingroom floor as I type and under hard acceleration and corning I am getting rearend wheel hop. I don't even have to be turning and when I get on it ( which doesn't take very much) it wheel hops to beat heck. The only way to get it not to do this is to take off slow. Any suggestions ?

BTW the Futaba ESC works just fine on 4 cells, and I can imagine what these little guys act like on 6 ! YYEEEHHHAAAWWW !


----------



## Impactplayr

Raz loosen up the rear pod to allow it to move more freely, mine does the same thing until I do, Next on my list will be the ball diff...... which will eliminate that problem.....


----------



## 2slow00

Bud how was the racing at the Dive shop? Rich and Dave got home after 11, much to late for this old man! I am going to the Brat on Sunday.


----------



## k1m

The second week of racing at Racer's Edge ended with Don in 1st place with 30 laps. His BuRP was sporting the new Vette body that made it look even faster. Hope to be able to post a pic of it here soon...It's really a knockout! His new 52t spur gear was an improvement also, as I was able to catch up to him several times but just couldn't make the pass. I came in 2nd with Johna close behind in 3rd in the 10 car field. I like running 10 at once but can't help but think some of the newer racers would rather run 2 mains. Fierce bumping and rubbing is common, but Ovalman gets my vote for "best clean hack" for stuffing me into the pipe on the fastest part of the course. It's all just for fun though, and belive me it's gonna be fun showing him why they call my body "Da Wedge"!!


----------



## OvalmanPA

Perfectly clean hack........














I'm *MORE* than sure I have one coming now when I least expect it.









Anyone that visits our results page this week at Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies will see that our BuRP class was the largest class out of the ones we run. A true testament to just how fun these little cars are!


----------



## Guest

So,
is there something wrong with my car, I get all kinds of wheel hop under hard acceleration and turning ? I have tightened up the rear and loosened up the rear to the point at where I have removed the top spring and collar. Nothing seems to help.
How does everone else cure this problem ?
Thanks,
Raz


----------



## marioparnelli

Raz, check the white plastic washers on the damper post. They should move freely, but with no slop. If they are sticking, try holding them at a angle and moving them up and down on post until free. If they are still sticking you will need to very carefully remove some material from the washers. I find a sharp body reamer works the best for this. Good luck and may the BRP gods smile on you.


----------



## Donalbain

Had a great race day! If there were a tad less traffic, I'd of owned that record!! You're goin' down K1m!!! An' I'll get that rollin' Ovalman too! 8^)

To get a peek at my new C.V. body, check out Ovalman's site, click on the Pictures link. It'll be the next to last link.

L8R


----------



## k1m

Hehehe! Come on now Don....you been sniffin' that Paragon again? Don't be shy....put it's pic right up here! It's too pretty to miss!

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-13-2001).]


----------



## Jason02

K1M do you have any of those 52t spur gears. I finished my other one off on Sunday.


----------



## k1m

Don's SC FunWon Vette









Jason: I have one left.They come with an oil lite bushing instead of plastic and a new set of balls.


----------



## OvalmanPA

Boy it's a good thing somebody brought his camera to the track Sunday huh?







Have to admit, Donalbain did do one heck of a job on that new body.

K1M, hmmmm, guess it will work posted from there. I didn't figure it would.


----------



## Jason02

How much is it?


----------



## 2slow00

TangTester are you racing at the Brat on Sunday? Your 17 to 18 years of experience will come in handy. You can use it to help unload the trailer and set up the track. Get there early.Remember all of the racing youth look up to thier heroes.


----------



## k1m

2Sloow & Bud: What charge rate do you guys at the Brat charge your AA's? Have you guys been running NiCAD's or NiMH batterys and do you run them more than once/day?
Jason: six bux


----------



## 2slow00

k1m I charge at 2 1/2 to 3 amps and peak at 4. I have a pack for each race. I did try running 1 pack all day but noticed a drop off by the end of the day. I run the 700 nicads . I bought a pack of the 1600 nmhs but the speed is the same. I use them for practice and goofing around. I am not that competitive but I enjoy this class. Bud, MR PARMA, TangTester and a few others are very good.We are expecting to have 30 + drivers after the Indoor Champs.A lot of older drivers like these cars as well as the beginers.Bud rents out a few cars each week and people line up to get one. Bud also knocks the rental fee off the purchase price off a kit.Good deal for the renter.


----------



## Guest

I was out last night and tonight with the SC18 for the first times. I went out to a basketball court and swept it off really good. This is 2 year old cement. Well, I couldn't get any traction what so ever. What is your guy's special tricks to running these on cement ? It was like running on ice, well from what I can see these things will scoot.
Does the cement have to be the rough surface type, as the BB court was the semi smooth surface.
What is your trick for racing one cement ?
Thanks,
Speedy


----------



## Guest

K1m:: I have been charging the 700 ni cads at 1.5 to 2 amps, We have lots of time between races and it seems like they have higher voltage charged at the lower rate. I also use 3 packs,the one from the first heat is discharged let to cool and then charged for the main. If you run one pack all day and are racing you will notice a drop off in speed. I had tryed some ni metal sanyo cells with no speed difference but was able to run 22 min. on one charge.
Raz::: You need to have some rougness in the suface, ashphalt that is smooth and clean bites great. Sounds like you were on some real smooth concrete, They will run OK on that surface but you basicly have to damp mop it so there is no dust and clean the tires good. I love to run a slick surface so you can slide car around but it takes some skill.
2slow00 :::: I will be at the brat sunday see you there


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## k1m

Bud: Thanx, I've been charging the NiMH "Kryptonites" at .75A because they seem to like that better, but I'm going to try a higher rate on my NiCad packs to see if their Voltage comes up.

Raz: From the sound of your last few posts it sounds like your BuRP is loose. First of all, are you running the orange/blue tires on front and blue on rear? Next, are you running the optional ball diff? If you're going to race or run it on slippery surfaces that will help alot. If you have the diff, have you checked TWEAK? Have you got the T-plate pivot screw adjusted right?
If you've gone over all these and still aren't getting any traction, you must be trying to run on a pretty slippery surface. These things run on a rail on carpet especially on 4 cells, on smooth cement, you may have to use some throttle control, but not much.
More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips









BRP-MADE IN THE USA


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## Guest

Went to Menards tonight and got some roofing felt. Too bad it is only around 3 foot wide. Has anyone ever raced on this and how did it hold up ? I got the 30 # heavy duty weight stuff. I was planning on cutting it off lengthwise and then using wide masking tape to tape it together. Remember, I have to remove this after every night of racing so it can't be a permanent setup :-( . I rubbed on this stuff to see if it would turn my hands black and it did not when I tried it. Does it rub off on thing eventually ? 
Just need some advice on this type of track. What size of track would be a good size for a limit of 5 cars a race ?
Thanks so much for all your help recently guys,
Raz


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## Guest

Just me again, I was wondering if you guys had a chatroom you hung out in on your spare time ?
Thanks again,
Raz


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## Guest

I was just wondering if you guys had a chatroom you hung out in when you had spare time ?
Thanks,
Raz


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## 2slow00

Another great day of BRP racing at the Brat. 15 entries this week.Not a bad turnout with so many racers in Toledo. Bud won the A followed by TangTester. Bud and Len thanks for all the help.


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## nitrorod

Hey all I just got my car together last night and man is it fun. I made a battery pack out of 6 1200 NI-Mhs and charged them at 3 amps and thay got realy warm. What are you all charging them at? Do yours Get warm? Can anyone explain the moter break-in with a glass of water to me? Thanks for the help.

[This message has been edited by nitrorod (edited 11-20-2001).]


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## OvalmanPA

nitro.......whoa 3 amps with NiMHs? We have been charging ours at .75-1 amp. Takes a little longer but they stay pretty cool.

Water dip: Fill a glass enough to cover your motor when dipped in it (about half way will do). Hook a 2 cell pack of AAs to your motor and dunk in the water for 20 seconds. Take the motor out and see if your brushes are broken in. Repeat if necassary. When broken in, spray out motor *thoroughly* with motor spray to prevent oxidation. Your done.









*NEWS FLASH: K1M breaks track record!* Yes that's right, he came, he saw, he whooped our............well you know.







Great run Kim, 31/5:04.61 over Donalbain and myself (28 laps each). Looks like we're still playing catchup to you this year. Didn't get in any good clean hacks yesterday though, I'm disappointed.


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## k1m

Our count was down alittle this week - eight I think - but there was still action in nearly every turn. In the first heat, I got tangled up on the backstretch once, and my car was so close to the inside barrier that I couldn't see it. I tried forward & reverse but it was still out of sight. I could see the turn marshalls just looking at it so I just held the throttle down and finally it popped out into turn 4 where I could see it. It must have rode the wall all the way to the turn! Gonna have to try and remember to stay out of the "dead zone".
Da Wedge handles like a dream....the 52/7 gears make the motor run cool and FAST, even with new tires. As the tires wear I plan on going to 52/8.
And what a sight the drivers of the BuRPs make! Young and old, male and female, big and small, all with giant smiles on their faces! Maybe we should take a group shot to post, Rick. Sure wish I had one of those spiffy BRP t-shirts though! Hehehehe!

More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips


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## Guest

The turn out was down some at the last NORCAR race, we had 16 racers. I think it is due to the holiday this week. I tryed some new T plates that have the center removed between the two center holes. This will give the chassis more for and aft flex. which will get rid of some wheel hop on the high bite tracks. I should have it on the web site first of next month.
We have the biggest race in the world this weekend in Cleveland the US Indoor champs, so I'll be there sellin BRP stuff and getting more racers interested in the SC18


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## Guest

Has anyone used a Nova 18 ESC in a BRP and how did it work ? 

Happy Thanksgiving everyone ! Eat up, you know you have had enough when you can't bend down to put the BRP on the track !


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## Guest

I guess there is a Nova 8 also.
Thanks,
Raz


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## OvalmanPA

What happened to all the replies we were getting here guys?

Anyway.......we had a full field of ten BuRPs again this week and our track record holder (K1M) took the week off! He let the rest of us see if we could break his record while he ran the mic as commentator.







The closest anybody got was KSG with a 29 lap run in the main. He was followed across the line by Jason with the older Fun Wons chassis so we know the old can still be competitive with the new.


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## 2slow00

Bud are you ready to get back in the BRP groove after watching all the rockets at the Champs?


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## Guest

Oval,
I was wondering about the replies also, A month ago, the replies were almost instant. Now they are almost extinct. 
Does anyone want to startup a chatroom, if not , I would like to chat with some BRPers on AOL instant messenger Username: RazBarlow.
Thanks,
Raz


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## 2slow00

Things were slow here because most in our area were at the Indoor champs. Almost every BRP driver races another class.It wil pick up soon.


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## Guest

2sloww00
Missed seeing you at the big race. Hope you feel better







Sales were good sold 6 more kits maybe 4 to local guys. We should have a good turnout for BRPs sunday!!!! SEE YA!!
I also just got a new Horizon flyer Hardcore racing is making Ti Chassis for the other little car if you buy all the parts and the alum wheels it comes to about $260.00 WOW you could have a fleet of BURP cars just for what the chassis parts cost. HPI does have some new pinions that set screw on 8 tooth to 13 tooth $5.00 each but the way they do stuff you will not be able to get them till next year more than likely. Wonder if you get a wrench with them or if that cost extra


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## 2slow00

Bud I'm feeling a lot better than last week but its still hanging on. I plan on being there Sunday. We will have to take the BRP's to Toledo during the off weeks at the Brat. I'll get your 2 cells tomorrow and pick up Sporty's order.


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## k1m

This weeks BurP racing was almost as much fun just to watch! Man, 10 of those little cars scattered over the road course is really a sight! There's wheel to wheel racing going on in one turn and nothing but slaming and banging going on in the next turn, so it's not only a blast - it's a challange to pilot a BuRP through all the carnage. Congratulations Kanesurfguru! Once he gets control of Da Purple Bug he's going to be tough. Kryptonite POWER!!
Jason did very well also in second, he's still running the old chassis.
Ovalman: maybe your radio trouble and Laura's is related? Just a thought.

Here's what it looked like in the 1st turn of the BuRP race:



















[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-27-2001).]

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 11-27-2001).]


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## TangTester

Thanks 2slow00, If you could I am also going to need some of those connector that you had on yours. See you on sunday. I am ready to race!!!!


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## 2slow00

I'll hook you up TangTester.How did you do at the Champs?


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## Guest

I would like to chat with guys who have a track or have been to a track that runs on roofing felt. Please email me or chat with me on AOL IM username RazBarlow


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## 2slow00

TangTester and Bud. I picked up the items from Areo Tech. See you Sunday.Bud please bring some extra nylon body nuts and rear body posts.Thanks


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## Guest

So guys,
Since I am fairly new to this. What are the main wearing components on the Fun Ones and the SC18 ? What parts should a guy stock up on ?
Thanks,
Raz


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## 2slow00

Raz, I haven't broken any parts yet on my SC18.(knock on wood) I keep dropping the nylon nuts and can't see them on the floor.I guess I'll dye some. I also glued the adjusting nuts on the rear body posts and need others when I change bodies.My first Vette body ripped when I scraped a board. This was my fault. I don't think anyone at our track has any unusual problems.


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## k1m

RAZ:


> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
> *Something that everyone that runs a BRP should check regularly is the left rear axle bushing. It wears alot quicker than the others and it's critical for keeping your spur/pinion gear mesh set. Even if there isn't much play in the bushing, make sure the bushing isn't turning in the motor plate. If it is, clean it with motor spray and then glue a new bushing in place with 2 drops of super glue. Be sure to have the axle spinning freely in the bushings to be sure they're lined up before you glue them to the motor plate.*</font>


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## Impactplayr

Today after racing and being annoyed at the severe oversteer from my straight axle...I got a flash of genius (or insanity).... Thinking back to my days of fiddling with go-karts I though...hmmmm....they where only pushed by on tire in the rear, and handled fairly well... so I got to work (after eating supper) and after am hour of assemly in my work shop (our bedrood) I pulled my SC out with a newly designed rear end. From prelimenary tests (on our kitchen floor...which my SC liked to spin on alot) the car seems to work aloy better!!!! The car now has an extremely neutral feel, which should translate into a slight push on the carpet we race on. This shouldn't be a problem because I had my steering turned down to approvimately 20 percent!!! so adding a little is not a problem...

SO far--
Pros
- Inexpensive, costs me less than 1 cent as I had all the parts laying around.
- No wheel hop, bath wheels can spin at different speeds in the turns.
- Less rotating weight, the car should accelerate faster due to the fact that the motor has to turn almost 1/2 less weight on the rear axle.
CONS 
- Non adjustable, unlike the ball diff the rear end cannot be adjusted.
- possible torque steer during acceleration, due to only one wheel doing all the pushing, this has not been seen during my breif test, but the possibilty is there, I will report. 

Tommorrow I will test it out on the carpet and report back, if all goes well I will be assembling one for my brother and I will take pics and figure up a parts list to help others out.....

[This message has been edited by Impactplayr (edited 12-02-2001).]


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## k1m

Impactplayer: I say go for it. Who knows what you can come up with by trying different setups. Let us know how it works. Give the ball diff a try if your one wheel drive doesn't work out, it works pretty well.

Today's BuRP races were even more competitive than usual. With 11 racers today, we ran 5 in one heat and 6 in the other. The first heat was dominated by a substitute driver, breaking the track record while driving his wifes SC18. Kris, who's no stranger to the road course, drove that Ferrari to a 32 lap run! Kris' influence seemed to set the pace as everyone ran fast today. He pushed me to bump up the record alittle higher on a 32 lap pace too. He was right behind me with 32 laps, then John(KSG)and Don with 31 laps and Rick and Joy with 30 laps. Quite a 30 lap club!
I hope Santa brings Kris a SC Fun Won for Christmas!


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## 2slow00

22 BRP cars at the Brat today.A,B,and C mains. TangTester was flying low winning the A with 30 laps. Bud TQed with 31 laps.Great turnout 8 in the A, 8 in the B,and 6 in the C. A lot of new drivers.30+ soon Bud!


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## TangTester

Hey 2slow00,
Thanks for the batteries, I ran your pack in the main. The car was really good, had good speed and great handling. I just kept my nose clean through the race and it came to me.


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## marioparnelli

2slow00, Bud.. I had alot of fun with the BRP car this weekend at the Bratt. I'm finally getting there with my setup and driving style. Bud, thanks for the help with the motor setup!


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## 2slow00

Mario good run yesterday. I'll get you next time. Tang great job.Next race at the Brat should be exciting.


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## Guest

Tangtester::: Good race sunday! Your 18 years of exp. showed as my 24 years also showed as brain fade wall hits







I bet Chuck would have had fun!!! Dick and Craig good run guys looking like your getin hooked up!
I heard from the florida racer running a SC18 against the Micros He won by 2 laps and thats on a big outdoor track. The Micros had lots of those trick go fast hop ups on them, Guees they need more


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## Guest

So,
What is the difference now between the SC18 racing truck and the Fun Wons Heavy Hauler ? Just the wheels ?
Thanks,
Raz


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## k1m

Raz: The bigger wheels are the most obvious difference, I believe the front beam (where the king pins mount) and the rear axle may be longer. 
Bud: How about it, any other differences? Also, I've had several people running kits with no-diff axles that want to replace their spur gear. Will #366 the 46t fit on their axles? Or do they need #351? The last Touring Terror kit I got came with the old 44t gear and I replaced it with part #351. Then there's the guy who wants to run a 52t but doesn't want to invest in the diff kit!

I think the diff kit is probably the best hop up for any BRP, what do you guys think?

More 1/18 Scale Pit Tips









BRP-MADE IN THE USA 


[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-03-2001).]


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## OvalmanPA

I'd agree Kim. I've never actually run it without a diff but it sure does handle well with it. If it wouldn't have been for us getting hooked up there during the main you would've had a 33 EASY.

Check all results at Racers Edge R/C Racing and Hobbies


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## Impactplayr

OK, I am pleased with my rear-end conversion so far, Yes it did torque steer under hard acceleration, but simply readjusting the servos center point helped alot. acceleration was also slightly slower, but any loss was easily made up on the turns...and quickly. Steering was more than ample, the only time I had any problems was triing to steer to the left while accelerating hard from a dead stop. While racing I found that I could maintain most of my straight away speed throughout the entire turn, infact after the first 4-6 laps all I had to do was slightly let off the trottle just before the turn and then jam back in the throttle almost instantly..... I was very pleased.

Note: the free-spinning wheel was on the right and I had a harder spring on the right-front. Next I will try flipping the sideplates on the motor pod to make the car drive from the right instead of the left. I will also try switching the front springs to releave the torque steer, and both front springs matched. Also note that I am using the kit stock tires. 

This set-up seems to be even better than the balldiff for oval, if you can control it......


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## Guest

For sale:

1x Super Oval Outlaw. With Stock Car body. Needs 1 screw and nut on rear pod and body posts/clips installed

1x BRP 4-Cell Pack w/connector
1x BRP 5-Cell Pack w/connector
1x BRP 6-Cell Pack w/connector
1x BRP #252 "GTP Sports" Body -- still in bag
1x BRP #253 Ferrari F40 Body -- Still in bag
1x Tower Hobbies TS-35 high-power mini servo
1x Hitec RCD Lynx AM w/receiver

Only items not included are ESC and charger. Make offer. 

[This message has been edited by kb9vrg (edited 12-07-2001).]


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## k1m

Bud: Can you tell me will #366 the 46t fit on S.O.O. axles? Or do they need #351? The last Touring Terror kit I got came with the old 44t gear and I replaced it with part #351, but I wondered if that hex on the 46t was to fit on the no diff axle? Another racer wants to know if he can fit a 52t to his no diff axle. I told him I didn't think so but I would ask you.

1/18 Scale Racing Page


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## Guest

K1M>>> You should have gotten the 46 with that kit, must have had a 44 mixed in with the 46. The 52 will not work on a none diff axle. We are off from racing until Jan 6 2002
Keep us posted on your racing


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## Impactplayr

OK I trashed my free-wheeling for now, the car was just too hard to get back afeter making changes. I will be getting a diff, but for now I have a new set-up and it works very well....

RF- plastic spacer same as on top of spring under steering block, orange spring.
LF- blue spring
- readjust front toe for about 1 1/2 deg. toe-in

LR- SAUSED--- Red dot
LR- stock

I believe I will be getting diff and a few sets of tires front and rear... This should hook me up better without the sause....

What is the best gear ratio for the SC18 (not fun wons) My brother and myself have 9/46, while my dad has 9/44 w/balldiff, and we seem alot faster than he is, will the same ratio with a balldiff allow us to keep out top-end while handling better?? BTW: we run 4 cells instead of 6 and the speeds are awesome....

Thanks BUD we love these cars!!! hands down better than any MINI-SHE or micro!!!! Especially when you slap a board hard enough to move the entire track and the car keeps going!!!!! 7 weeks, the first 4 racing 2 SC18's and a Bolinks legend!!! and no breaks, no problems, no complaints wish my 1/10ths where like that!!!!!

OHH and I am getting my wife an SC18 and she will be sharing it with my 3 year old daughter!!! All but the bodies cause wifey wants an F-40 and Amanda wants a powerpuff girls monte!!!!!


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## k1m

Nine mini racers lined up this week to do battle on the ozite. Don was "Da Man" this week with KSG closing fast for second with 30 laps each and Mike Asel came in third with a solid 28 lap run.

And where was Da Wedge you may ask? Chugging along in 4th with a VERY sick motor, but havin' a ball anyway. Looks like the old Deathstar motor has had it, as it has lost all it's zip and is throwing alot of sparks from the comm. Too bad, that motor has alot of fun runs on it.

Ovalman had his share of troubles also, his BuRP develops a nasty glitch when he gets in the pack, and I have an idea he'll have a different motor next week too.

Speaking of the pack, it looks like we'll be adding a few more racers to it in the next few weeks. Two for sure, maybe more. 
I talked to Santa Clause, he said Kris hasn't been very good this year, but he's getting his own BuRP anyway. Hehehe!


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## Guest

I just posted this over on the http://www.YourMicro.com forums under this topic: *RS4 Micro vs. BRP Super Car 18 :: 1/18th Scale Questions???* and would like everyone to reply here and over there so we can get some good opinions from both sides.

Thank you,

cnc137.

============================================
Recently I got into R/C Car Racing an bought a HPI RS4 Pro 3 kit and really enjoyed building it and I want to race it soon. I would also like to my brother to go to the races with me but he doesn't want to spend the amount of money that I have to get my Pro 3 up and running. So, I was thinking about buying him a 1/18th Scale R/C Car Kit because they are cheaper and seem like they will take less money and time to build and upkeep.

So, I started looking around the Internet for information and ran across two different types of 1/18th R/C Car Kits on the market and they are the HPI RS4 Micro which everyone here is enjoying and the BRP Super Car 18 ( www.BRPRracing.com ) which eveyone over at these forums are enjoying: BRP 1/18 Scale - Hobby Talk Forum.

So, now I am confused??? 

- Which one is better?
- Which one goes faster?
- Which one has more hop-ups?
- Which one costs less?
- Which one has more races in the area I live in (Cleveland, OH) and around the country?
- Which one has better support?
- Which requires less maintenance?
- Will HPI 1/18th bodies fit on a BRP Super Car 18?
- Will BRP bodies fit on the HPI RS4 Micro?
- Are there other companies that sell hop-ups for either car kit?

So, does anyone have any advice on which one to get or does anyone have both and can they tell me which one they like better?

Any information would be appreciated.

Thank you,

cnc137.
--------
http://www.DreamStation.cc 
Dreamcast :: GameCube :: PlayStation 2 :: Xbox 
============================================


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## OvalmanPA

K1M......naw I'll leave Ma with that motor that's in hers.







Pretty quick even having a 46t on there huh?







I'm thinking I'm going to try swapping receivers with my 2wd stock and see if the Novak makes a difference. If that don't help I'll go from there.

cnc137.....

*- Which one is better?* I think it's matter of opinion and since I haven't seen a micro run yet I can't make a definate answer but from what Bud and a couple of these other guys say, the BRP is better at handling.

*- Which one goes faster?* Again it seems to be matter of opinion and those that have seen both run can be better judges but it seems to me any micros that show up to race with those guys end up getting beat.









*- Which one has more hop-ups?* That one would definatly have to go to the micro. There are a whole bunch of places that are jumping on the micro hopup list. Kyosho themselves, Hardcore, etc......

*- Which one costs less?* I think this one would have to go to the BRP. About $89 for the car and then throw in some cheap radio gear and go as opposed to about $110 plus the radio gear for the micro.

*- Which one has more races in the area I live in (Cleveland, OH) and around the country?* Sorry, can't help you there.

*- Which one has better support?* Parts support or tech support? Both are probably about the same. That and you can stop by here any time and get an answer straight from the BRP man himself, Bud.









*- Which requires less maintenance?* Can't speak for the micro but I cleaned my BRP about once a month during last years racing season. Most often maintenance required it seems is rebending the steering rods straight.

*- Will HPI 1/18th bodies fit on a BRP Super Car 18?* Sorry can't help you here either.

*- Will BRP bodies fit on the HPI RS4 Micro?* Ditto...

*- Are there other companies that sell hop-ups for either car kit?* As mentioned before there are companies moving into the hopup market all the time for the micro. The BRP has been sadly left behind in this factor but it could also tell you something of the "box stock" kit, no hopups required (except the diff kit).









As to which one to get, which is being run where you race is the question as well as which has more parts support? We at our track know the durability and race worthyness of the BRP. 

[This message has been edited by OvalmanPA (edited 12-11-2001).]


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## k1m

Wow! You do have questions, huh? You came to the right place, and I'll go along with Ovalman's great job of answering also. I think 1/18 Scale racing would be a good place for your brother to start out too. We haven't seen any Micro's around here yet, so most comparisons we've made are based on what others on this thread and the micro rs4 thread have said. And although they're both 1/18 scale its like comparing a pan car to a touring car. They both have features the other doesn't and I'm sure they're both fun to drive. I think the SC18 would require less maintenance due to it's less complicated design and proven reliability. If you're into hopups, it looks like you'll be able to spend as much $$ as you want on the micro....all you need to turn the SC18 into a race ready machine is the ball diff and a good pack of AA's. 
BRP racing offers 15 bodies to choose from and I understand the Micro's wheelbase is 10mm shorter so I doubt the bodies will interchange.
Visit your local tracks and see what they're racing before you decide which one to buy.
Good Luck.
More 1/18 Scale BuRP Pit Tips









BRP- PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA


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## Guest

CNC:::: Lots of ??? If you want to spend lots of $$$ get the HPI They are making chassis parts that will cost you about $250.00 from hardcore racing and it just goes on from there.
You can buy a SC18 from tower hobbies for $59.99 that is a complete kit less battery and your radio gear.
We are getting 22 racers at the NORCAR races in Cleveland next race Jan 6 You can run a Micro but it will not count for points.
Our bodies will fit if you have a long wheel base Micro. and HPI Viper will fit our car.
The BRP car handles much better than the Micro and is very fast.
Come to the next race and see!!!!!!!!


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## Impactplayr

The only part I think you could damage on an SC18 is the steering blocks (and I don't see that happening) and they are the same as the old 10L blocks, which are the same as the blocks for the bolinks legends/digger/pancar blocks...so parts will always be available. Cleaning my car actually takes about 3 min. every 2-3 weeks (including oiling the bushings). The tires can actually be used until they are just off the rims. I will say I have seen a Micro almost as fast as my SC18....it had 6 cells and I run 4!!!!! Also the SC18 can be ran on parking lots without worriing about drt fouling the drivetrain... but the micros belt is another story when it comes to dirt....

Also when the small scale craze ends (and it probably will) HPI will drop the micro like a bad habit and parts/ new cars will not be available (just look at the past with the mini rs4 line and F1 cars!!!). Mean while Bud will still be there supporting his loyal followers.


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## Nil

cnc137:

Bud is being much too modest, or trying to be impartial. If you live in Cleveland, there's only one answer. Navigate to http://www.the-big-al.com/norcar/ and check the schedule and standings. Better, faster don't matter a whole lot. Support here is great. The BRPs are made in Elyria, and Bud (the B in BRP) has shown up at every race in the series. He is a real hero to dozens of kids at each race.

Someplace else, the answer may be different. But I doubt if anywhere you can talk to the man responsible for the HPI like you can the BRP.

Come over to the January 6 race and have a look-see. Talk to Bud. Then decide.

Have fun racing.



[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 12-12-2001).]


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## Guest

My brother and I actually came to the Brat on November 18th to see you guys race since I just bought a HPI RS4 Pro 3 in October and wanted to see what the track looked like and how many people raced there so once I got another crystal for my radio I could join you guys. That was also when I first heard of BRP but I didn't really know what it was at that time. I saw Bud there at the races but didn't realize that he created the cars until someone mentioned it to us when they were passing by my brother and I in the watching in the corner of the gym. I actually thought you guys were racing HPI RS4 Micros up until that person said they were racing BRPs. I was kind of confused but also interested and that is why I started doing some research and found that Super Car 18s are just as nice as the HPI RS4 Micros and maybe even a little faster, plus cheaper!

I have another question...

Can the Super Car 18s be converted into Super Car 18 Fun WONS by just changing the tires and the body or are they totally different chassis on the Super Car 18 Fun WONS even though they use the same blue fiberglass design???

I would like to buy the $59.99 Super Car 18 kit for my brother at Tower Hobbies but I would also like him to be able to convert it later to a Fun WONS since I think they look cooler but I don't want to spend the money up front for the Fun WONS since it will be over the Christmas budget for him. =)

If I got the Super Car 18 kit what would I need to change it to a Fun WONS (I am guessing I need tires and a body. Am I missing anything?) if this is possible and how much would it cost?

Thank you,

cnc137.


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## 2slow00

cnc, I don't know if you can convert to a funwon from an SC 18 but I think you can buy a kit to convert the fun won. Soo it should work. The Sc18 handles much better than the funwon. I think I was the guy that pointed Bud out to you at the race.


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## Guest

2slow00,

Thanks for making us feel welcome!









I talked to Bud today on the phone and he told me that you can convert the SC18 to a Fun WON but by the time you did you might as well buy the Fun WON again. He said that there is more than just the tires and body involved in converting the SC18 to a Fun WON. I guess the Fun WON also has a wider front end and some other components that are different. He did say that the Fun WON goes a little faster since the big tires help but they are both competitive.

I am still trying to decide if I want to get the SC18 for my brother and the Fun WON for myself or just get us both SC18 for $60 at Tower Hobbies. The one thing that I have decided is that if I get us 1/18th scale R/C cars they will be BRP brand and not HPI. I love my HPI RS4 Pro 3 (even if people say it has a lot of flex) but I don't want to spend 
over a $100 to $200 to get a 1/18th scale car running just to have fun with it. I think I have figured out that BRP is the way to go if you want to have a good time racing small cars.









cnc137.
------
http://www.DreamStation.cc 
Dreamcast :: GameCube :: PlayStation 2 :: Xbox


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## Nil

cnc137:

Oh, yeah, we forgot to point out that Bud usually has cars for rent at the Brat. So, bring your RS4 and rent one. I'd e-mail or call Bud to make sure he'll have rent-a-wrecks on the sixth. Check with him on details, but I think he discounts rental fees against purchase.

For beginners (I should know), trying to run three cars can be a pain. Is your brother up to maintaining his own, or will you be juggling them? You'd be amazed at what can go wrong and still have a chance at fixing them before the next heat.

Start small; you can always spend yourself broke next week.


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## Guest

My brother who is 41 and is on his own once we get him the kit for Christmas. If he breaks something he can buy a new one and fix it himself.







My wife and I are probably going to buy him the kit and my Mom and Dad are going to get him the Remote Controller but after that he has to buy his own stuff.







hehe...

Bud did mention that he rents them but we want to get it for him for Christmas and I would like my wife to buy me one for Christmas also, so, Jan. 6th will be too late.









I really like how the Fun WONS ($90) look but I think I like the price of the SC18s ($60) so I am up in the air on which one I should get for myself if I get one.

Which one would you guys recommend? Fun WON or SC18???

cnc137.


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## 2slow00

cnc,If you want to race get the SC18 it flat out handles better.


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## k1m

cnc137: I have to disagree with 2sloow. It's true the SC18 has a more scale appearance, but the Fun Wons have a look all their own. I don't think Bud decided to put the larger tires on them to make them handle worse either. More contact means more traction. You don't need the conversion kit to change a Sc18 to a Fun Won either. Everything's the same except the tires, front beam, and rear axle/hub. Even the bodys will fit with alittle trimming. I'm sure it would be cheaper to just buy a Fun Won than to convert a SC18 though.
We race both styles together here at Racer's Edge and the Fun Wons have been MUCH more competitive. But they're both alot of Fun!
Check out this link for some pix of our Fun Wons:
BuRP Pix


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
> *Everything's the same except the tires, front beam, and rear axle/hub. *</font>


k1m:

I presume you mean to include steering blocks & linkage when you say "front beam." Looking at your pictures, those are different; I can't tell for sure about the posts & springs.


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## Guest

I decided to order the BRP Super Car 18 since it was only $60 on http://www.TowerHobbies.com and I was buying one for myself and my brother for Christmas. I really like how the HPI RS4 Micros bodies and wheels look and the hop-ups that are available but I couldn't justify paying the extra $40 if there would be no one to race at my local track. 

I hope some third party makes some hop-ups for the BRP soon but I am not holding my breath. Oh well, at least I get to race a great car with a bunch of people and for a cheap price. 

I would also be interested in knowing exactly what is different between the SC18 and the Fun WON since I would be willing to pay the money to convert the SC18 later on to the Fun WON. Then I could have both cars and all I would have to do is reconfigure them back and forth. Plus, I will need to buy tires sooner or later so I could buy the 1/12th scale tires and convert my SC18 when I need new tires for it. And, I wouldn't mind having a few bodies for it the BRP either.









I would appreciate it if someone could post the exact things needed to convert the SC18 to a Fun WON and the price for each item.

Lastly, I don't know if Bud take suggestions on bodies and hop-ups but I would like to see more touring car bodies, rims, and tires for the SC18. Touring Cars are all the rage in the 1/10th scale R/C car class so I think he should ride the wave and make some for the 1/18th scale BRPs. I would like to see rims like the Micro has with spokes instead of the Nascar style rims that are available now and if they could have rubber tires on them that would be cool also.

A few bodies I would like to see are as follows:

- 1998 Dodge Startus (I own a real one.







)
- 2001 Mitsubishi Galant (I own one of these too!







)
- Honda Civic
- Honda Accord
- Subaru Impreza
- BMW M or 3 Series
- Nissan Silvia
- Mitsubishi Eclipse
- Dodge Viper
- Lamborghini Diablo

No rush on these ideas Bud I am just thinking out loud.







I know you told me, I think, that you are working on new tires and rims now.

Which bodies, rims, tires or other hop-ups would you like to see made if Bud can make them easily or during his next hop-up creation process? 

cnc137.


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## Nil

cnc137:

Come on over to Bratenahl on the sixth and look at some Fun Wons. I think you'll find the hassle of converting them onerous, if you intend to do it more than once.

Bud says he's looking for some ideas for new bodies since his Corvette is such a hit. He also says the HPI Viper fits his cars.


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## k1m

Nil: You're right, the tie rods are longer on the Fun Wons, but the steering blocks, kingpins and axles are the same. The SC18 comes with red springs I think and the Fun Wons have blue springs. My steering blocks are the same except they came from an Associated 12L. They were white so I could dye them blue.

CNC137: Ok, Here it is..........
Retail
#400 Rear blue tires $11.50
#401 Front orange/blue tires 11.50
#453 Tie Rods 4.00
#303 F.W. complete front end 15.00
#365 F.W. complete diff kit 25.00

You might save some money by contacting Bud and ask him for a SC18 Fun Won front beam,(you don't need the whole front end) and the Fun Won rear hubs. I checked and the axles are the same length, so really all you need are the hubs. That still leaves the springs and gearing to really hook it up.
Thats why we suggest just buying a Fun Won if thats what you want. I'm sure you're going to love racing the SC18s with your brother.

One of the best things about BRP is their products are all simple but durable in design. I doubt you'll see any titanium/aluminum hop ups, mostly because they don't need them. Bud doesn't even sell bearings for them, the bushings keep the cost down and last quite a while if you oil them. Keeping it simple and FUN is important. Cheap helps alot too!



[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-16-2001).]


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## Guest

Thanks for the info and I think I started something over at the http://www.YourMicro.com (HPI RS4 Micro) Web Site. 

Check out this thread for more details:

http://pub94.ezboard.com/fmymicrofrm1.showMessage?topicID=697.topic

Maybe I have helped convert a few people and I don't even have a SC18 yet.









cnc137.


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## Guest

I got two 6 AA NiCD battery packs with 600mAh last night at my local Hobbytown USA for myself and my brother. They say they are for an M1 Tank but they have the Tamiya connector and are 7.2v so I think they will work but they may not last as long as the ones from BRP but they were $10 cheaper ($16.99 each). If they last 15 minutes per charge I will be happy and they should be fine to get my brother and I started. We will probably buy a couple more battery packs later.

- Do they sound okay to you guys for just starting out cheap? 
- What type of battery packs do you guys run? 
- NiMH or NiCD? 
- How many mAhs?
- How many cells? (4, 5, 6 or more!)
- How long of a run time do you get?
- How long does it take to charge them?
- What charger do you use?

I know, I know... I am mister question guy.









Any information would be appreciated.

Thank you,

cnc137.


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## Nil

*- Do they sound okay to you guys for just starting out cheap? *

Should work just fine for five minute heats; I've never seen a BRP "dump" in that time.

*- What type of battery packs do you guys run? *

Some put their own together; many stick with the BRP pack since it's not hard to use just a single pack for the whole day

*- NiMH or NiCD? *

Most of what I see at Brat is NiCd. I've read conflicting opinions on NiMH; it doesn't seem needed for five minute heats.

*- How many mAhs?*

700; BRP stock and the most common "loose" battery.

*- How many cells? (4, 5, 6 or more!)*

It depends on where you're racing. Six at the Brat.

*- How long of a run time do you get?*

More than five minutes

*- How long does it take to charge them?*

Depends on the charge rate. About fifteen minutes after a heat.

*- What charger do you use?*

Any adjustable rate unit with peak detection is fine. I usually use 1.5 a before race day, 2.5 just before the race and between heats.




[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 12-18-2001).]


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## k1m

Racing was different this week than usual, not sure why but all the classes had lower lap counts. The BuRP class was no exception, the best we could do was 28 laps, but it was no less exciting. We even ran a "grudge match" on the oval during intermission. Normally we run the roadcourse but a BuRP oval race was pretty neat. We didn't keep track of laps, but I'll just say there's nothing quite like a new motor!








Team Fortner took the first 2 places in the Feature with KSG 3rd, Stark(his first race) took 4th. Ovalmans still got radio problems, but Laura is getting faster every week. Kris is pouting because he has to wait until after Xmas to play.
Next week I hope to have some pix of us so you guys can see what a motley crew we are!












[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-18-2001).]


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## k1m

cnc137(Micro Master): Thanx for the link, it's kinda neat to see what the micro boys think of BRP's. 

Last year, Steve Hill (Hilltop Batterys)sent me several different brands of AA's to try for racing. We tried Energizer, Panasonic, and Sanyo Nicads from 700mah to 1100mah. We also tried some 1200 NiMH's. All were charged at 1 Amp and raced for 5 minutes. The Energizers died after 2 weeks, the Sanyo's seemed the fastest of the Nicads, but the NiMH's really make the BuRPs fly. They'd probably run for 15 min or more, but we only run 5 min. Their higher voltage at the 5 minute mark is what I like. I run one pack twice (I have 2) every other week and I get a better charge the 2nd run. The only bad thing is I think a lower charge rate (.75 amps)works better with NimH so they take a while to charge. I use a Tekin 112a & 112C to charge them. We race 6 cell packs.


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## DynoMoHum

I am confused...

I just recently started getting interested in a BPR 1/18th car... I had heard about the Fun WONs cars for some time now, but had really not been to interested. Then I stumbled across the SC 18, and my first impression was that this was a new car and was designed to more or less replace the Fun WONs cars.

NOW I hear folks saying that the Fun WONS are actually faster cars... I also hear talk of converting a SC 18 to a Fun WONs car... I don't understand all this...

What exactly are the differances? It seems there is a NEW version of the Fun WONs that comes with the T-plate and such and may be much more like the SC 18 then the original Fun WON. Howerver I still don't understand which of these is intended to be the racier version of the two...

Pesonaly I want something that is fun, durable, yet is fast and will be competitive if I ever should decided to come down to Ohio and race with you guys...

For now I intend to basicly just use the 1/18 scale car to practice my driving skills in my basement but this may not always be the case.


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## aeracer

TMFU- There is an SC Fun Wons (T-plate chassis) as well as a SC18 (T-plate chassis). The SC Fun Wons was released after the SC18. Up until the release of the SC Fun Wons the only way to put the new chassis on Da Bug was with the conversion kit.

As far as which is better- I don't own a Fun Wons, but it would seem the Fun Wons would handle better and might have a little more top end with the bigger tires. I would say the SC18 has a little more "scale" appearance.


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## DynoMoHum

If I understand it correctly the wheels and the suspension hardware that attach the wheels to the car (including axels and stearing blocks???) are differnt between the SC Fun WONS and the SC 18 cars? That is if you buy a Fun WONS car you can't attach the SC 18 wheels to it without swaping out several other hardware components (and vica versa). What exactly does change?

Also... can someone give me the actual dimensions of these BRP 1/18 scale cars... Wheel base, width, and length (and even weight if someone knows that).

I'm really wondering right now if I'd just be better off to get a 1/12 scale car, since I don't really plan to compete with other 1/18 scale racers anytime soon, and could compete with local 1/12 scale guys...


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## Guest

When I was talking to Bud last week before I made my purchase he told me that the Fun WONs may go a little faster than the SC18 because they have bigger tires and that both cars handle about the same. He also mentioned that the SC18 is maybe a little better for racing since it's wheels are inside the body and if you hit a wall with the SC18 it will slide off instead of getting stuck or drawn in like the Fun WONS do with the tires sticking out past the body.

I hate to not recommend a BRP but if no one races them in your area you might be better off getting a 1/12th scale car. At first I wanted to get a HPI RS4 Micro but after seeing everyone at my local track running BRPs I decided that they were the better way to go and they were cheaper! BONUS!!!







I don't know if I will race that often but when I do I would like to have people to race against and that is why BRP was the choice for me for me 1/18th scale R/C car.

cnc137.


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## k1m

TMFU: Your questions about the differences between SC18 and SC Fun Wons can be found in earlier posts. Unless you live in a BIG house, you're going to have a tough time running a 1/12 scale in the basement I think. Theres alot of 1/18 scale basement & garage racing going on around the country. All you have to do is get one of your friends to buy one too, and you're in for a race and a good time.

SC Fun Won
wheelbase: 5 3/4 "
width: 5 1/8 "
weight: 16.3 oz (race ready- 6 cell battery, transponder, etc.)

SC18
wheelbase: 5 3/4"
width: 4 1/4"
weight: ? probably slightly less than SCFW

We did weigh an old style Fun Won (black chassis) last week and it weighed within .1 oz the same as my SC Fun Won (blue chassis).

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-19-2001).]


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## Guest

TMFU>>> Go with the SC 18 for basement running! The 1/12th will be way too fast and very hard to drive and cost alot more in the long run. I know of people racing in two car garages and basements with the SC18 and they are having a blast


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## DynoMoHum

How can the wheelbase be 5-3/4"??? the photos show them with a dollar bill next to them, and the wheel base seems to be about a inch longer then the dollar bill... are you sure it's not 6 -3/4"? 

I've got a area in my basement with about 840 sq. ft. It's not exactly a rectangle, but has a 24 x 19' section and one spot that would allow for a 35' straightaway. It's essentialy a 34' x 12' section that is parralell with another 37 x12' section and the two sections are side by side in the middle 19 feet. I originaly felt that a 12th scale car (4 cells) would be ok... even if it was a bit hard to control... I figured I'd have to learn how to drive very well to get good lap times on a realtively tight track, but not impossible to drive on this. The ultimate goal being that when I went to race on a bigger track I'd feel like it was a breeze compared to what I was used to while practicing in my basement...

Certianly a SC 18 would be eazyer to drive in this area, but it means that I have to run differnt motors, differnt tires, batteries, diffs and etc... then are commonly available at my local hobby stores. I realise the area I have would actualy be better suited for a 18th scale car, but I just feel odd having to buy stuff that I really could not race competitvely anywhere within a hour or more of my home... (unless I could find a few friends who wanted to buy them too).

It's really kind of a difficult decsion for me... even though I'm certian the SC 18 cars would be much fun... 

I could de-tune and under gear a 12th scale untill I learned to drive better.... Oh... woe is me... what to do.


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by TMFU:
> *How can the wheelbase be 5-3/4"??? the photos show them with a dollar bill next to them, and the wheel base seems to be about a inch longer then the dollar bill... are you sure it's not 6 -3/4"? *</font>


Must be the camera angle. A bill is just a bit longer than the wheelbase. 



> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by TMFU:
> * Certianly a SC 18 would be eazyer to drive in this area, but it means that I have to run differnt motors, differnt tires, batteries, diffs and etc... then are commonly available at my local hobby stores. I realise the area I have would actualy be better suited for a 18th scale car, but I just feel odd having to buy stuff that I really could not race competitvely anywhere within a hour or more of my home... (unless I could find a few friends who wanted to buy them too). *</font>


Since it doesn't sound like you're planning on getting into competition soon, save the money. You can get completely set up for BRPs for the cost of one 1/12 chassis. 

Bud is pretty good about getting things shipped out quick. These are durable parts, too. You won't need too much in the way of replacements.

It looks like BRPs may be spreading up your way, too.




[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 12-19-2001).]


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## Guest

I currently own a Micro RS4 but I also wanted to get one of the BRP. I don't know which one to get right now, the SC18 or Fun Won. I really didn't want the body of Da Bug so I am more leaning towards the SC18 and besides Bud says an HPI Viper body would fit into it so that's a plus for me. But then I like the Fun Won better because it is wider and heard a lot of good things about it. Help me decide coz I wanted to buy one before the sale at Tower Hobbies ends.


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## Guest

SPEEDSTER >> Go with the SC18 You will like it


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## Guest

The sale at TowerHobbies.com is only for the SC18 and the OLD Fun WON without the SC18 (blue) chassis. So, I would suggest getting the SC18 at TowerHobbies.com instead of buying the old Fun WONS since the conversion kit cost $45 to upgrade to the new SC18 Fun WON chassis.

That is why I bought the SC18 at TowerHobbies.com since I didn't want to spend the $89.95 for the Fun WON at BRPRacing.com. If I decide I want the Fun WON later I mgiht try upgrading the SC18 but at least I didn't have to pay a lot right now to get me started.

cnc137.


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## Guest

ok, its gonna be SC18 then. so bud, how do I get the Ferrari body? and can you post a picture of HPI Viper on your SC. TIA.


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## Impactplayr

Ok a few more questions....

I race my SC18 on an indoor carpet oval, I have found that if I soak my left rear tire with red dot before the day I race and reapply it every few races (we run 1-3 minute long heats until the packs dump), the rearend doesn't come around on me. So I decided to get new tires and do away with the red dot. I will also be getting a ball diff at the same time. So I really will need a new set of rear tires so the car doesn't have a perpetual push. How does this sound---

Fronts- orange and/or blue
Left rear- Green or blue
Right rear- Blue or orange

What tires should I get, we don't run road coarses often, but with full sets I will be able to just swap tires.


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## Guest

Have you guys checked out the thread I posted on http://www.yourmicro.com yet?

It is located here http://pub94.ezboard.com/fmymicrofrm1.showMessage?topicID=697.topic and has some good information about Micro Vs. BRP, has 500+ views, and has been in the top 10 for almost two weeks now. I guess I stirred up some controverse over there. 

cnc137.


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## k1m

Speedster: Here's a link to BRP's body page:
http://www.brpracing.com/18bodypics.html
You can order #253 Ferrari right from Bud.
Most all of them will fit on Fun Wons too, even the wedge.

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/wedge1.jpg

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-21-2001).]


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## Guest

I just got DA Bug yesterday and put her together. Everything went pretty easily and am impressed so far. I have a question for you guys though.

I noticed that the rear track isn't equal from the center to the outside of each wheel. When measuring from the center of the rear chassis above the engine, the distance is longer to the outside of the right wheel than to the left wheel. Seems like this would make the car turn much sharper to the left than right. Is this supposed to be this way or am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated.


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## Guest

Mr Clean>>>>>>> Make sure you have a black spacer on the axle opposite the gear side. Also make sure the wheels are on with the deeper offset towards the center of the car.


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## k1m

Mr clean: Maybe this will help.......
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/kburp2.jpg

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 12-22-2001).]


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## Guest

Is this the new Fun Wons?


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## OvalmanPA

Nope, that's the original Fun Won chassis. The new one is almost identical to the SC18 chassis (blue fiberglass with t-plate).


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## k1m

Speedster: That's the older style Fun Wons that has a black chassis. It's a great little car that we put MANY miles on with very little maintenance or breakage.








The newer style SC Fun Wons have the blue chassis like the SC18.
More 1/18 Scale BuRP Pit Tips









BRP- PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA


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## Guest

ok thanks!!!


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## k1m

Everyone seemed more intent on getting more laps this week, and it payed off with nearly half the field on the same 30 lap run. I sat out the 2nd heat to try and take some pix. Mike was coerced into driving my car since his son was driving his. Must be he liked it because he will be driving a new SC Fun Won next week. Looks like we'll have 2 new BuRP racers next week.
Most of the pix I took sucked, but I did get this shot of this weeks BuRP drivers here at Racers Edge. 









Left to right - Stark, John(Kanesurfguru), Johna, Barb(Snookie), Rick(Ovalman), Don(Donalbain), Joy, Mike, & Ben.


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## OvalmanPA

OOOOHHHHH MAN! You just *HAD* to run right home and upload that pic to the web didn't you? I figured I'd get a least one night before you went showing our ugly mugs on the internet!









Ya'all will notice K1M convieniently wouldn't let anyone else take the pic so he could be in it too!!









Great day of racing. I still can't keep up with K1M and KSG but I'm having fun anyway.









[This message has been edited by OvalmanPA (edited 12-23-2001).]


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## k1m

Actually Ovalman, I did ask Tom to take a couple of shots, but they didn't come out very good. I think it's neat that big or small, young & old, all have a good time knocking it out in the BuRP class.
Notice how the Manufacturers Banners show up? Sure wish I had a BRP Banner...Hint,hint!


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## BudBartos

K1M>>> OK who is who in that picture???


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## OvalmanPA

K1M........yea sure, that's the excuse!









Bud.......ya gotta look under the pic, K1M listed all of us there. Except his mug of course.


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## Guest

hey guys, i just ordered the SC-18 and it should be here next week... or should i say next year.


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## Guest

hey guys, i just ordered the SC-18 and it should be here next week... or should i say next year.


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## BudBartos

Ovalman >>> Thanks I guess I should read


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## k1m

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and that Santa brought everyone BRP goodies. One of our visitors was a 9 year old(Bradley) with a brand new R/C "just like mine." Actually it was a 1/12 scale BMW made by a company called Ertl. He was dying to show it to me as he's seen all my R/C's several times. I was surprised at it's soft rubber tires and smooth feeling diff. It had a very detailed body molded out of hard styrene plastic. He just happened to have a battery pack all charged up so as soon as I could get a pack for my BRP, we ended up out on the patio. Now there's not alot of traction on 20 degree concrete, but I was suprised how well my Fun Won handled. Bradley's still having alittle trouble with reverse view and he's having to learn with a 2 stick radio, but he's catches on fast (he's an avid video gamer). His dad and I talked about what's needed to get started with a BRP but now I'm not sure if he meant for Bradley or for him!


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## Guest

boy do we look good or what yeah i finally made it in here i think i did anyhow


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## OvalmanPA

Holy cow! Look what the cat dragged in.


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## k1m

Hey Starkie - 'atta boy! Glad to see you found your way here. Old KSG drops in too once in a while if we taunt him alittle. There's lots of good go fast tips in the earlier posts, so be sure to scan through all of them. You might find something interesting on my Pit Tips page too:

http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html

I'm thinking about making a web page where we can post pix of everyone's BRP racers because some people have a hard time posting pix here. Any suggestions?
Also I'm gonna have to see if I can get a link to my pages on Bud's Web site.
You guys that race at the Brat must be getting itchy trigger fingers by now, huh?


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## BudBartos

K1m :::I'll tell Hank to add your web site to BRP. Your right I'am ready to do some racin !


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## Guest

hey guys, i've already created a 1/18 scale website. it has a lot of features including gallery, tips, reviews and eventually a message board like this. I will launch it on January 1 coz there is still some more work to do. But for now, if you are interested, send your pictures to me so I can add it on the gallery. You can email it to [email protected] Also, if you have good tips for the 1/18 scale, email it to me in an article format so I can add those as well. Of course your name will be on there to give you credit for it. Ok guys, Happy New Year to you all!!!


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## Guest

Well, sorry it has taken me so long to get back to this forum. Thanks for the responses but the problem still persists. I kinda took offence to the statement about making sure I have the wheels on right! Anyhow, I have seen some pictures on the net that look as though they have the same problem that I have. Is the car designed this way? Is it a defect? Should I shim the left wheel or dremel down the spacer on the right side? If someone could post a pic from above the fun won, I would appreciate it.


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## Guest

My servo doesn't fit









I just got my SC18 and I am almost done building it. My only problem now is my servo is too big. I have a Hitec HS-525BB. What kind of servos are you guys using?


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## OvalmanPA

That servo *should* fit. You do know you have to cut the "ears" off in order to put a servo on the car right?









I think most of us at our track are using "cheapy" servos (Futaba 148, 3003, etc) with much success and the 525 is no larger than these to my knowledge.


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## OvalmanPA

Mr. Clean.......this pic ( http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/kburp2.jpg ) was no help to you? There should be a black spacer (3/8" maybe?) on the right side between the hub and the bushing and *IF* anything on the left side, only a small clear nylon spacer.


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## BudBartos

Mr Clean >> Sorry you took offense to the reply asking if the wheel was on the correct way! I have had people that did that and I was just trying to help. By the way if you don't know I own BRP and designed all of the cars







The rear track should not be offset if it is just shim the side out to equal it up.


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## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by OvalmanPA:
> *That servo should fit. You do know you have to cut the "ears" off in order to put a servo on the car right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think most of us at our track are using "cheapy" servos (Futaba 148, 3003, etc) with much success and the 525 is no larger than these to my knowledge.*</font>


hehehe, yeah, I just missed that step from the manual (DUH!) Anyway, I got it all fitted except for the motor. I'm gonna do some soldering today. I also tried my HPI BMW body and it seems ok, so I'll probably use that for now.


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## k1m

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by Mr Clean:
> *
> I noticed that the rear track isn't equal from the center to the outside of each wheel. When measuring from the center of the rear chassis above the engine, the distance is longer to the outside of the right wheel than to the left wheel. Seems like this would make the car turn much sharper to the left than right. Is this supposed to be this way or am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated.*</font>


Mr Clean: Having a Fun Wons wheel on backwards is a pretty common mistake. I've wondered how well it would work to reverse the right side to oval race.
How far off center is yours?

I know you have a Fun Won, but what color is the chassis? If it's blue, then the distance from the rear center screw to outside of wheels is 2 11/16 inches as close as I can tell. If it's black, I don't know the exact distance but it should be centered for sure.
Are you running the optional ball diff? The only other thing I can think of would be a problem with one of the hubs.
We can figure this out, but more info is needed.


----------



## k1m

P.S.
Once I lent Ovalman my Fun Won so he could see how it was made. I had just had it apart and when I put it back together I left the spacer out by mistake. Heheheh! I should have told him it was my "secret setup"!


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## OvalmanPA

Yea...........right............hot setup.......







It did look AWEFUL funny without that spacer in there though.









Another good day of racing at RER/CR&H even though our track record holder (K1M) wasn't there (dang work huh?). Another even 10 BuRPs at the track this week. I think if we get everybody there we should have almost enough for two FULL heats of 10. Don took the main with KSG hot on his heels. The track seems to have slowed down some from the first of the year so we'll probably have to wait for a warm spell to get up in the track record range again.


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## Guest

Bud, yes I know you are the owner and designer. I may have just over-reacted to what you said. I have several cars and was somehow thinking that you knew this. Anyhow, I have checked everything and it is exactly as it is supposed to be. I am going to do what you suggested and just mod the spacer on the right side to bring it in it closer to the center. 

I have the fun won with the blue chassis. My wife got it for me for Xmas.

Yes, the pic did help!

Bud, I think it is awesome that you are here to help the people who buy your products. I wish other organizations had such a high level of customer support. Thanks...


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## BudBartos

MrClean >>> sounds good hope you get it all straightend out.
ALL >>> We ran the 1/18th scale cars today in Toledo. It was a big track and all had a good time. There were 7 BRP cars and 2 Micros. I won








HAPPY NEW YEAR to ALL!!!!!!


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## Guest

Here's my newly built SC18. I got some more pics and i'll try to show it later.


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## Guest

Oh, by the way, I just finished my website dedicated for 1/18 scale cars. It features Micro RS4 and BRP SC-18. You can view it at http://www.lubong.com/speedster . It is still in beta version but for now, you can send me all your pictures to [email protected] and I'll post them on my gallery. Also, don't forget to visit the Micro Reviews section and write a review for the BRP cars. If there is anything else that I need to add for the BRP section, please let me know. Also if you find any bugs or errors, please notify me.

Thanks,
SC Speedster


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## Guest

I finally got my SC18 and am looking forward to completing it. I am disappointed with the durability of my HPI Micro and I think the BRP will be much more durable and raceworthy. Our 18th scale track opened last Sunday and we had 15 HPI's show up. I qualified 2nd with my Micro and finished 4th after my front differential and left steering knuckle broke. 
I'm prepping my SC18 for this Sunday. I'm hoping that my ball diff and 5/16 X 1/8 ball bearings arrive before Friday. Here's a pic of both of my cars. I'm planning to mount my ESC and RX directly on the fiberglass to keep the COG as low as possible. Also, I'll be running a 6-cell NIMH AAA pack. They're 1/2 the weight of AA packs and have 650 MAH's of capacity. 

One question -- is the motor a 6V or 12V based motor?









Thanks.

Jon


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## k1m

dme328i: Nice paint, man! I'm sure you're going to be happy with the SC18. I don't quite understand why all the micro hopups that are coming out are pretty colors and titanium everything, but don't deal with the suspension (or lack of). The ball diff is a good investment for your BRP and so is a servo saver. You may have to sand down the axle to get it to fit in the bearings. Definately mount all your electronics right on the chassis to keep the weight low.(Check out mine here: http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPix.html) We are only allowed to run AA's at our local track, but let me know how the AAA's work anyway, I've heard N size works good too.
If you're racing 15 other Micro's next weekend with your SC18, mine money is on YOU!!

BRP motors are 16d slot car motors that I believe are 12v - You'll get better performance if you don't over gear.



[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 01-02-2002).]


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## BudBartos

dme328i>> I posted on the other thread. I see you already cut out the radio plate so go for it. Let us know how many laps you win by at your next race with the BRP car


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## Guest

Thanks for the info guys. 

The AAA NIMH's have been great. Even with a hot motor (comparatively speaking) like a Speed 300, they've had no problems pumping out the amps. I use 18 ga. single strand copper for the bars. I'll be running in the open class, so I plan to make a 6, 7 and 8 cell pack to try out. I also use 2/3 A NIMH packs and have had a lot of luck. I prefer the AAA because they lie very flat.

I'll post some pics of our raceway. We have an awesome track! It's prepped concrete with green infield and surround area that has been waxed. I'll bring my digital camera this Sunday and take a pic to post.


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## BudBartos

Speedster>> Nice web site! Would it be OK to put a link to it from our web site?


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## Guest

Yes you may Bud. But it will have a new home on its official launch date on January 7. Link it to http://www.teamspeedster.com. I would like to ask you guys to fill in the reviews for BRP cars before the Micro owners do


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## Guest

Just about ready to rock n roll. I put in the ball diff. I've got my electronics mounted right on the chassis. I'm making some battery packs. I can't wait till Sunday. Guess where my Micro is? It's sitting in a box waiting for front-end parts. I'll probably put it on eBay when I get the front al. hub carriers put on. Wish me luck Sunday. I'm getting ready to paint my F40 now.

Jon


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## BudBartos

dme382I .. Go get them







fill us in on how thing go.


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## k1m

Bud: What can you tell us about the Mura group 20 motor? Is it a different wind slot car motor?


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## k1m

dme328i: What kind of batterys are those in your pic?


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## BudBartos

K1M >>> Will try it sunday and let all know what it do.


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## Guest

k1m, I have the mura group 20 in my buds car and love it. Pretty fast, but I need to re gear it for more bottom end. I'm running my 6 cell AA 1600maH battery pack in it now. Seems like run times are maybe 10-15 min. I might be racing tomorrow at my local track. I was there testing it out yesterday with my brother and it's really nice. 

Hildy


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## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by k1m:
> *dme328i: What kind of batterys are those in your pic?*</font>


k1m,

Those are 2/3A 1000MAH. Orion Knock Offs as I call 'em. My car's ready to go. I'll take a pic of the line up tomorrow, so you guys can see what I'm up against. Btw, I forget to mention that we race in Springfield, MO -- Hobbies in Motion Raceway. You'll be impressed with the track. Look at all my Orion Knock Offs that I made. I can't see paying $38 for 6 -- 2/3A NIMH cells, so I made myself. You think I have too many. Look at my secret weapon -- the bottom pack which is 8.4V and fits perfectly.










Jon


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## Guest

One other note, I'm running the stock ball diff spur and decided to run the 7T pinion. The motor doesn't seem to be torquey enough to run a 9T. Other specs:

KO Propo Mars EX-1 (Better than M8's)
KO Micro RX
Futaba 230CR (Reverse locked out)
Radio Tray cut to hold batteries only
Stock tires and springs
I'll run 7.2V and 8.4V packs tomorrow. 

Any suggestions for a long, tight, highly technical track (you'll see what I mean when I link a pic tomorrow)?


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## Guest

hey guys, if you have any upcoming event related to SC 18 or Fun WONS, email them to me at [email protected] and I will post them to my website.


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## BudBartos

Group 20 motor test>>> Well guy's I ran the group 20 it was a Mura. ran with our standard 700mah AA 6 cell pack geared 52/8 It was SLOWWWW!!!! It turned out to be 1 second a lap slower than the stock kit motor per lap. My opinion save your money!
I beleive it was the batterys not being able to put on the current needed to get it going. I'am going to try and fit a speed 300 in for the next race to test.
We had 18 1/18th racers today I was TQ but a first turn wreck blew a wire off of the speed control. Pat took the win with Dan second to keep the points race tight. 2slowwOO good job on making the A main, you also marioP! Running 10 cars was a blast once I got back on the track.











[This message has been edited by BudBartos (edited 01-06-2002).]


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## k1m

Nine racers lined up this week at Racer's Edge and the racing was as fierce as ever. I managed to break away from the pack early and ended up TQ with 31 laps. (The record is 32laps) Most everyone seems to have overcome their radio glitches, which makes it more fun for everyone. In the second heat, I managed to T-bone a corner marshalls foot at full speed which shut off the switch on my ESC. Seems like I had more trouble avoiding the marshalls this week than other cars. I'll have to remount my switch turned around the other way so that won't happen again.
Ovalman won the main with 31 laps - way to go Rick! It was a long time coming for him. I got 2nd, Don 3rd, with Chris, Mike, Dennis,Joy, Barb & Cory filling out the field.
There were some racers there from Pro Speedway in NY. and they were VERY impressed and interested in the 1/18 scale action. I wouldn't be suprised if they get in on it to. I almost hope they get micros though just so we can put the whoop on them!


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## Guest

Hmmm, a speed 300, sounds good. I was able to mount in a speed 400 in my brp car with only one screw, so ya should be able to mount in a speed 300. I guess the grp 20 is a comparable motor to the stock 16d. So far, I have had good luck with it. Maybe ya just got a dud. j/k.lol I dunno, let us know how the 300 works if you can get it to.

Hildy


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## 2slow00

Great racing at the Brat as usual. The BRP class is the fastest growing class at our track. The cost is a factor but I think more people see how much fun we have and how competitive the class is.(except for Bud,TangTester,and Pete)Next race on the 20th Bud is having a free prize raffle for the BRP racers. Good deal Bud!Another HPI car was practicing but didn,t race. The car was fast but couldn't turn the corners without rolling over or slowing dramaticly. I think all of the cars that raced were SC18's except one FunWun.


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## marioparnelli

Bud, I had a ball running with you guys Sunday at the Bratt! The SC18 was working good and the old hack driving it was doing OK too!







2sloww... sorry about the take out at the start. It must have been a radio glich....(!) ya that's it. "It was a radio glich!"


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## OvalmanPA

WHOOHOO......I finally beat K1M this season!!







In all fairness to him though he had a great deal of trouble in traffic. Now where am I gonna come up with the $50 a piece I paid to everybody else in the class? LOL 

Great day of racing all around. I think my change in peak charging technique is helping some. Seems to be maintaining more speed throughout the race. Tightened my rear end up a little before the main too.


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## Guest

Hey guys, the website for 1/18 scale cars is officially launched. The new URL is http://www.teamspeedster.com. Please fill in the reviews and write your opinion on different available kits, parts and accessories for BRP 1/18 cars. If you want to contribute, the website needs the ff: 

- Photos 
- Tips 
- Your review/opinion 

Remember, this is our website so let us help each other out and create a wonderful community of 18th scale racers.


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by speedster:
> *Hey guys, the website for 1/18 scale cars is officially launched. The new URL is . . .*</font>


Sorry, Speedster, I couldn't get there. All I got was *Directory Listing Denied*.

You had a typo, kinda. When you type in a URL, you're no longer speaking English, so you have to separate punctuation from the address, thus: http://www.teamspeedster.com .


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## Guest

hmmmm... i think this forum has a bug on it. it should be able to distinguish the correct URL and disregard any special characters. anyway, thanks for correcting it. ok the above post has the right link. well, here it is:

www.teamspeedster.com


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## aeracer

Hello everyone,
I need some setup tips for racing on a polished concrete surface. I haven't run on it yet, but there are guys racing micros on it that tell me it is very slick. Give me some ideas, I'm going out to whoop on some micro this weekend!


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## Guest

They have started another BRP vs. Micro thread on http://www.yourmicro.com . Maybe you guys should go over there and set them straight. 

The thread is located here:

BRP versus HPI 1/18 scale... How to REALLY compare them.

By the way, my brother and I got our BRP Super Cars 18s for Christmas. We are hoping to make it to the Brat on Jan. 20th if we get the bodies painted and I get my radio equipment from TowerHobbies.com.

Also, does anyone know where I can get 1/18th scale Monte Carlo decals for my car. I really want the headlights, taillights, and front grill to look like the real thing.

cnc137.


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## aeracer

cnc- Try slixx decals part number 6027-SC00SG for the Montecarlo decals.


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## Guest

Thank you, I will have to take a look!


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## Guest

Will the 1/24th scale decals look okay on the 1/18th scale car?

I don't want the headlights and taillights to be too small and look dumb.

Does anyone have any pictures of there car with the 1/24th Scale Slixx Nascar Decals on it that you could post here?


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## OvalmanPA

Since K1M was so "luckily" ommited from our track BuRP picture a week ago, we decided to take it uppon ourselves to get a pic of the big guy so he wasn't left out. So without further ado, our present BuRP track record holder and all around good guy......Kim.


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## aeracer

cnc,
I don't have any pictures of 1/24 scale Slixx decals, but I do have this picture of 1/24 scale Autographics decals on a BRP. I hope this helps you.
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/sixty9olds/vwp?.dir=/Everyone&.src=ph&.dnm=bayer.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/bc/sixty9olds/lst%3f%26.dir=/Everyone%26.src=ph%26.view=t

[This message has been edited by aeracer (edited 01-08-2002).]


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## BudBartos

Speedster>> Web site is looking good. Make sure all you guys check it out. Hank is going to put the link on my web site.
K1M>> Good to see you








If anyone here has a intrest in winning some great prizes be at the next NORCAR club race in Cleveland on Jan 20th , be there! We are going to have a number of prizes just for those that are running 1/18th that day, we should have a record setting turnout. Spread the word!
I checked out some of the posts in BRP vs Micro I don't know what to say so maybe all of you racers could go there and say somthing. All I know is you can buy a complete car for what it costs for a set of hop up alum. wheels for the Micro. I really wish a big magazine would do a heads up review box stock, but that will never happen.








One guy suggested taking the belt and front drive gear out and compare them, WOW!! no comment. 
Well keep having fun


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## Guest

thanks Bud, I am hoping to get more BRP support on that site. As you can see, I just started a war, hehehe







Guys, I need your photos right now coz the SC18 gallery is empty. Send them to [email protected] Also, please fill in the reviews for BRP cars. Thanks.


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## k1m

Bud: I went to the micro site and at first was amused by the "which is better...BRP vs Micro" etc, etc. I was going to voice my opinion on it being like comparing apples to oranges which we've discussed on this forum long ago and at great length. I was also going to end it with the flag and "Proudly Made in USA" but after seeing the EZ Board account creating page, I decided that I get enough spam and have no desire to join the "thousands of ez board communities". Remember about.com?
Here's an idea for the big shootout: We could tape big rocks to the roof of our BRP's to slow them down and make them roll over in the turns


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## k1m

AERACER: polished concrete is pretty hard to hook anything up on. About all you can do is goop up the tires, loosen the rear pod collar up and go real easy on the throttle.


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## k1m

Speedster: Nice site, I'd like to link to it from my 1/18 scale racing site and I'll be sending you some BuRP pix soon. Tell those micro guys to come on up to Racers Edge and put their micro where their mouth is.


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## k1m

Ovalman: Happy now?? I can't believe you'd do that after I LET you win!! Hehehe! Now you've blown my cover and the micro police will probably be banging on my door tommorrow. 
The pic of me was bad enough, but what really gets me is you got "Da Wedge" in the pic too. Now everyone can see my wheel disks and foam bumper! My patent hasn't come back yet on the velcro battery straps, let alone my other secret stuff!


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## aeracer

K1M- 
Thanks for the polished concrete info, I'll try that and just hang on- weeeeeee! Regarding the patent- let me know when you get it, I'll owe you royalties on the battery strap









[This message has been edited by aeracer (edited 01-09-2002).]


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## Guest

aeracer,

I see you didn't put the headlight decals on the body. Is that because they didn't look right or you just didn't want them on there?

I am wondering if the headlight decals will be too small if I buy 1/24th scale decals and make them look out of place.


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## aeracer

cnc- I didn't use the headlight decals because I was going for a true Nascar look. All I can really say is that the decals are 1/24 scale. You may notice that the numbers are a little small on the car. If you buy a decal set to duplicate a car (ie. Dupont) the stripes probably won't fit the car properly because they are 1/24 scale. At speed and in the draft, however, the decals look great









[This message has been edited by aeracer (edited 01-09-2002).]


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## Guest

question: i know the body didn't come with any window mask or decals, did you guys just use a masking tape for masking the windows or can I buy them from store?


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## Guest

I bought the DuraTrax WindowMask Masking Paper to mask my windows on my BRP but I haven't used it yet. It comes in a 6" x 12.5" sheet that you have to cutout yourself. I can't tell you how it works but it looks like it will be easier than using just masking tape. 

aeracer, 

Thanks for the feedback on the decals. I guess you answered my question about the headlights looking too small. 

Does anyone know if anybody makes 1/18th scale decals?

cnc137.


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## aeracer

cnc-
The only one I know of is Team Orion:
http://www.team-orion.ch/shop/usa/products.asp?id=30&cat=Micro+Parts


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## OvalmanPA

K1M.......

*Ovalman: Happy now??* Yep I am but you can blame most of the idea on the one you go home with every week!
















Hey if you let me win then how about doing it more often? My truck needs all the help it can get some weeks.







Haha........I can see it now too. *Fortner wheel disks for the BRP* Remember us little guys when you make your first million ok?


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## BudBartos

AEracer>> On a surface like that you will have to try coating the tires with a film of Dow Corning silicone sealer, let it cure of course for at least 24 hr and the car will be stuck.








CNC >> Only 1/18th decals are HPI and Orion has some flames and such. The 1/24th decals work fine actualy I don't see how they fit on the slot cars. Try to make it to that race on the 20th It will be a blast. I pit up on the stage.


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## BudBartos

K1m... We started a thread on the Car Action site if you want to check it out. Can all of you PA racers come to Cleveland for our big 1/18th race?? If you guys came we would have 50 racers there


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by speedster:
> *question: i know the body didn't come with any window mask or decals, did you guys just use a masking tape for masking the windows or can I buy them from store?*</font>


Speedster:

Here's how I do it:

Put masking tape on the inside of body over the windows. I use 3M blue paper tape, wide enough to cover the windows in one pass. 

Rub down hard around the edge of the windows using a fingernail until you can see the line through the tape. Good lighting helps.

Use a *new* X-acto blade and cut the tape on the lines.

Peel off the excess and spray.

I've done this on BRP Type MCs and a few larger bodies. It works well on headlights & grills, too. Just don't rush the cutting part.

Nil


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## aeracer

Bud- Thanks, I'll try the Dow Corning silicone sealer on the tires.


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## Guest

Thanks for the tip Nil


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## k1m

Here's a link that Impactplayer posted on the other thread. SC18 for $60. AND alot of specs on it like width & wheelbase.
CHECK IT OUT:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAEY6&P=7


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## rayhuang

Well, I am ging to buy a Sc18 and had a handling question or two or three. I will be racing on a 60'x30' carpet road course. Do you guys run any toe out? Also, How stiff do you run the damper plate on the pod? Do you run any lube under the pod plates? I have a choice of ESC's and was wondering if one with virtually no decent brakes (forward-reverse) ESc will do? I race Stock 12th and TC and never use brakes, but maybe the SC18 needs coast brake. 

Thanks guys!!!


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## Guest

Sorry it took so long to get back on the Forum. Well, I was the only BRP vs. 15 Micros and 1 Parma 2wd. 

I had a lot of driving problems in the qualifying heats and didn't qualify for the A-Main. I finally got the right set up in the B-Main and won it with 22 laps (that would've TQ'd). Luckily we bump up the B-winner. I ended up getting third in the A-Main. We had two Sponsored drivers that day and I didn't drive very good in the A. Donnie Cooper with Delta and Parma won it with 21 laps in his 10 year old Parma 2wd micro car. Check out these pics:

































I'll do better this week.

Jon


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## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by rayhuang:
> *Well, I am ging to buy a Sc18 and had a handling question or two or three. I will be racing on a 60'x30' carpet road course. Do you guys run any toe out? Also, How stiff do you run the damper plate on the pod? Do you run any lube under the pod plates? I have a choice of ESC's and was wondering if one with virtually no decent brakes (forward-reverse) ESc will do? I race Stock 12th and TC and never use brakes, but maybe the SC18 needs coast brake.
> 
> Thanks guys!!!*</font>


I'm running 0 degrees up front and it has plenty of steering. I run the damper plates as loose as possible and with grease. It seems to hook up better with no bounce when set up this way. 

As you can see, my track is very technical, so I dial in a just a hint of drag brake. Also, my dual rate on the steering is toned down a tad as this baby has much tighter steering than my micro (btw, I have the ball diff). I hope that helps.

Jon


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## Guest

One other note:

Check out our club website at:

RCCARS Springfield, MO


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## rayhuang

Thanks for the tips. I tend to like a "bit" of steering so those tips should help!!! Thanks,
Ray

That is one awesom track!!! Looks like an fuel on-road track!!! Is it Ozite?

[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 01-11-2002).]


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## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by rayhuang:
> *Thanks for the tips. I tend to like a "bit" of steering so those tips should help!!! Thanks,
> Ray
> 
> That is one awesom track!!! Looks like an fuel on-road track!!! Is it Ozite?
> 
> [This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 01-11-2002).]*</font>


No, it's treated concrete. The concrete floor was patched in depressed areas, then sanded smooth. We covered the smoothed surface and covered the track with a gray high traction sealer (I don't remember what it was exactly). The infield area was painted green then covered with wax (slick as ice). The gray area is very high traction and most of the Micro guys are running 2wd only.

Jon


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## BudBartos

dme328i>> That sounds great! That track is really cool. You will get them next time. Make sure you have the car geared for that small track I would sug. 8 tooth pinion and 52 tooth spur. The Parma car that was running happened to be designed by myself







back in about 1983 or so. It has the folded lexan chassis correct.


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## marioparnelli

Ray...the BRP cars are alot like a old 12L. They must be driven smooth and with as little drag on them as posible. No brake, in fact I use a little creep on the speed control setup. Free up the rear pod, rear axle, and kingpins. Remember they don't have alot of power and you must keep your corner speed up.


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## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *dme328i>> That sounds great! That track is really cool. You will get them next time. Make sure you have the car geared for that small track I would sug. 8 tooth pinion and 52 tooth spur. The Parma car that was running happened to be designed by myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back in about 1983 or so. It has the folded lexan chassis correct.*</font>


Yes it does have the folded lexan chassis. He was also running a outlaw body that just plowed anyone in his way. 

I'm running the 7 pinion and stock spur. The 16d motor doesn't have much torque. I'll miss micro racing this weekend. I've got a regional two-day 1/10th 4wd electric sedan race this Saturday and Sunday. I'll be running a Schumacher Chassis, KP Propo Radio and World Class Batteries (Thanks Chuck).


----------



## Guest

cnc137 - here is how I got around using 1/24 decals. Purchase the decal sheet you want, scan it and use a graphics editor (I use Serif PhotoPlus 5.0 - free on the web) to size the decals to 1/18. I use Avery photo quality labels if there is white in the decal or Avery clear labels if there is color (both are available at Office Depot, Staples or Office Max. You can create your own decal sheet in 1/18 scale (or I've downsized them for HO scale as well). If you race on asphalt or concrete (as I do), and have the occasional dinger (as I do), those lovely decals won't last long. When I tear or scuff a decal, I just print out a new one (saved in a file from the original and I'm back on the track and looking fine! Works like a champ. It also allows you to change the look now and then (Goodwrench, Taz car, Oreo, etc.)


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## BudBartos

dme328i >> The 52 tooth spur will give you more out of the corners and on that short straight. The slot motors like RPM.


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## k1m

dme328i: Try the 52t spur gear. You get new diff balls and an oillite center bushing instead of the stock plastic one. Follow the instructions that come with it and you'll fly.


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## Guest

Okay. I'll order the 52T now. Thanks for the tip.

Btw, just got home from the first day of qualifying at the regional race. I'm barely in the A right now in 6th pos. Two more rounds of Q tomorrow and then a triple A-main. There's some pretty good competition here in MO. Two Team Yokomo Drivers and a Team Trinity Driver are rounding out the top 3.

Jon


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## Guest

Bud,

Any chance of getting me the 52t spur and sending it FC mail (for a $1-$2) instead of the $5 ground shipping charge? (Never hurts to ask)


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## BudBartos

dme>> Yes I will adjust the shipping and send it by mail.


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## Impactplayr

Just wanted to let everyone know (and brag a little) Yesterday I got a smaokin' deal on 3 SC's, 2 radios, 4 speedos, 4 servos, and ALOT of other BRP products totaling over $1000 worth of stuff (and most of it was SC spares, tires, motors, 10 sets of 4 cells, and 6 bodies) for $270!!! I was soo happy!!! now we have 6 cars to run....


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## BudBartos

WOW !! I just ran my SC18 on a slot car track. The car was really fast, track had some tire glue on it so it made the steering a bit touchy but the thing was hooked up. It was kind of different apexing the turns. By the way no slot cars were running at the time.


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## OvalmanPA

Great day of racing at RER/CR&H. Had 12 BuRPs to hash it out on the carpet. K1M ended the day with a run just 4 seconds off his present track record. Guess I shouldn't have posted that pic of him last week because he didn't let me win this week.








Chris crossed the finish line second a lap behind and Mike, myself, and KSG finished yet another lap behind. Don had some kind of problem and went out of the race only 2:30 in. The B was where the second half of Team Fortner showed the way after battling it out with Starky and Johna.

We just have to figure out why those phone bats work so well now.


----------



## aeracer

I raced my SC18 against a field of micro RS4's today, and they smoked me! The track is a slick polished concrete surface. I even tried the silicone sealer on the tires to no avail. Anyone out there have any setup tips for this type of racing surface?
Thanks,
AEracer


----------



## BudBartos

AEracer>>> Sorry to here that







Lets try to get you hooked up! First what were you running Car,diff,gears,batteries cells and number of cells? Were the Micros sliding at all and how modified were they?
How tight and big was the track and what kind of surface again?

[This message has been edited by BudBartos (edited 01-13-2002).]


----------



## Guest

BlueDeuceFan,

I was thinking about doing that but haven't gotten to the store yet to buy the labels. I didn't know they sold clear labels but am happy to hear that they do.







I found a picture of the Monte Carlo headlights on the web and printed and cut them out and they look good. Now I just need to find a picture of the taillights and grill.









Thanks for the tip!

cnc137.


----------



## aeracer

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *AEracer>>> Sorry to here that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets try to get you hooked up! First what were you running Car,diff,gears,batteries cells and number of cells? Were the Micros sliding at all and how modified were they?
> How tight and big was the track and what kind of surface again?
> 
> [This message has been edited by BudBartos (edited 01-13-2002).]*</font>


Bud,
I'm running an SC18 with ball diff.
46T Spur 7 tooth pinion
6 cell 700mah nicd
The track was a short Tri-oval. 
The micro's were sliding, but with the 4 wheel drive they were able to control the "drift" in the corner. If I gave my car too much throttle, the rear tires lit up and the car did 180's. The surface is a polished concrete, it's like driving on glass.
Thanks for your help,
AEracer


----------



## BudBartos

aeracer >> OK if your always running on the oval you can put some wedge in the car. Place car on a flat surface facing towards you, lift front of car in center of chassis with a xacto. You want the left side tire to come off the surface last, that will mean there is more weight on the right front tire and also the left rear tire. All the real oval cars do this! Just put 1/8th washers or a shim of some kind under the left front steering block. This will cause the car to push in the turn while turning left.But give you more rear bite.
Try to loosen the diff also so you get some slip in it and that will help hook up the rear tires.
Also run the rear pod LOOSE and have almost no damper fliud or spring tension on the rear damper disks.
Give that a try and see if it helps!
Or get those guys to race on somthing other than ice


----------



## k1m

AEracer: are the micro's running rubber tires? If so, maybe that's what you need too. No amount of setup will cure a lack of traction between your tires and the track. I think someone was talking about adapters to mount the HPI tires to an SC18 in an earlier post. Other than that, I suggest you try 4 or 5 cells. All that power is useless if you can't put it to the ground.


----------



## aeracer

Bud,
Thanks for the tips, I tried everything you said except the wedge adjustment. Sorry I didn't mention that they change the setup of the track each week. They run road course, also. I really don't think I can hook up and run with those guys on that surface, the 4wd seems to get just enough grip to get around. I can tell from watching the micros they are powering through the corners. The cars look like sprint cars going into the corners. Their club is talking about getting some carpet, if they do that will even the playing field. The car generated a lot of interest, I think one of the guys will buy one when he sees it run on carpet. I just wish that their current "ice" surface would keep my beverage cold







.


----------



## aeracer

K1M- The micros were running rubber tires. I have thought about making some capped tires, just not sure how to get the outside diameter true.


----------



## Nil

aeracer:

Have you tried the Green tires ( http://brpracing.com/18tires.html )? They may help some, but if Bud didn't suggest 'em, probably not much. How about traction compound? I'm trying to learn something here, too, so please tell me if these suggestions are not the ticket.

Nil


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## BudBartos

aeracer >> If they go to carpet you will dominate! Don't tell them that however


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## 2slow00

Mario the gear puller is too big for these motors. Paul or Kelly could you bring one Sunday to the Brat.


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## rayhuang

A few more questions for a BRP newbie. Again, I race a lot of TC and 12th scale and use fast servos (0.07sec. to 60). The servo I have picked out for my BRP is only 0.17 to 60. Will it be too slow? I have a fast Air. 94145, but its my 12th scale spare servo and since I am planning on gluing the servo in the BRP car, I'd rather not use it. I am hoping a super fast servo in a BRP is a bad thing!!!

Second newbie question. I have a Dynamite Power Pulse forw+reverse ESC I can use. A lot of other guys in our club are using Atoms and Cyclones. WIll I be at a speed disadvantage (and weight) because of this, or wont it matter much???









Thanks for everyones help. If you havent already figured out-I am trying to limit the spending on this car, but will spend it IF I HAVE to to run up front (hopefully)


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## Impactplayr

Most guys use standard radio equiptment, and cheapo speedos, I don't see how better equiptment would make much difference in these cars. You won't be seeing 12th scale speeds, so the servo would be real overkill (besides you would have to butcher an expensive servo), and the 18th's don't need the extra effeciency of a high preformance speedo. The smoother throttle responce may be welcomed in a larger car, but you will never feel it in these cars....JMHO


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## OvalmanPA

I agree. High dollar stuff in these cars IMO is overkill. I'm using Futaba 148 servos in my BuRPs with no problems and they are .20 or slower I believe. Not to offend anyone but I believe there may be some people trying to take these cars to seriously.







Slap some cheap stuff in them and go have a good time.


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## aeracer

I agree with Impact and Ovalman- Bud’s slogan is “simply fun” for these cars. Everyone who owns one understands this concept. I have had more fun racing these cars against family and friends than any other vehicle. What other form of RC lets you pack all your gear in a shoebox, run 15 to 20 minutes on a charge, with very little maintenance between runs?
Enjoy the ride








AEracer


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## rayhuang

Thank you and Amen!!!! I want nothing more than to have an ultra-competitive-fun-low maintenance car to run that does NOT use mega-buck ESC-Servo-batteries, etc in them.







My last 6-cell pack for my TC was $90.00!!!! 
I am going to enjoy only lugging a small bag to the track!!!

I am thinking no matter what-I should hold the higher ground and only run relatively inexpensive equipment in my car!!!! No matter what others are running.
Thanks guys!!!


----------



## gordonmoney

The slick surface is what the micro's were designed for. I'll bet they're a blast to run on that track. If you're not already using it, use traction compound! Soak the rears for as long as you can and in front, start with just a thin line on the inside edge of the tires. Wipe it off well and you might hook up ok, maybe even a slight push. Carpet costs money and if they figure out their cars aren't going to do well on it without considerable modification, they're not going to do it(they already have a perfect micro track). However, if they get carpet, Bud's right. You get to show them what an 18th scale rug rocket looks like, and, with BRP SC's selling for $60 at Tower, you might convince several of these guys to join you in kicking butt.


----------



## gordonmoney

last post directed to aeracer. Sorry


----------



## aeracer

Gordon- The micro's do look like a lot of fun to run on the track. They kind of look like 4WD sprint cars sliding around the corners. "18th scale rug rocket" LOL. I'll give the tire saucing a try. Would you run green compound tires on all 4 corners?
Thanks to everyone who has replied.
AEracer


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## Guest

When it comes to electronics, I have cheapo stuff for it. I run a traxxas 2018 servo out of my tmaxx, a very old esc(with reverse







)lol, and a traxxas 2 channel receiver. Top quality stuff eh? All of the "in to it" guys at my track have $200 radios, super small esc's and receivers, etc on their "awesome" micro rs4's. I do think the micro's are cool, but I'd stick with BRP anyday. 

Hildy


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## k1m

BRP's are the perfect place to use an old radio and cheap ESC. Simply fun is right, all the fun of close competition without all the tuning and expense; that's what it's about. Save your money for other things and just have FUN!


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## gordonmoney

aeracer>>green tires in the rear and blue(kit std)tires in the front. On a slippery surface, the idea is to get the car as biased toward the rear as possible(traction wise). Try to make sure the surface is clean. Remember, slow is fast, you are only going to do so well on this type of surface. Be very aware of your driving and you may very well beat these guys. NEXT>>electronics- are sort like buying a yacht.If you have to ask, you don't need them. I know it's a paraphrase. Any electronics will fit in a BRP car. If you feel you are losing races because of the size of your electronics(unlikely) or, you just like the way the small stuff looks, by all means, go with it. Otherwise, put in what you got, the car will work well, don't stress over it.(take this from a guy who stresses over things)


----------



## BudBartos

OK BRP racers I have a hot new item that I tested last race and it made a BIG differance.
We have some new magnets for the 16D motors
They are #432 XP Super power magnets, retail price $5.95. Don't know how soon Hank the main man will get them on the web site but it should be soon. What they do is give you lots more bottom end and let the motors run much cooler. 
Ray >>> Can't wait to see the smile on your face sunday when you run your new car







All the radio gear your putting in will work just fine.


----------



## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *They are #432 XP Super power magnets, retail price $5.95. *</font>


What a deal. Now I just gotta get good enough that I could tell the difference, besides by the size of the dent.

Nil


----------



## Guest

*What's new at Speedster Racing?*

You may now preview the Speedstore


----------



## Guest

I have never raced an R/C car before and my brother and I are thinking about trying to race our BRPs and I want to race my 1/10th Scale HPI RS4 Pro 3 also this weekend at Bratenahl.

So, what do we need to bring to race for the day and what time do we need to be there so we don't miss out?

I have 2 FM crystal sets for my FM Radio that I am going to use with my Pro 3 but my brother and I only have one AM crystal set each for our AM Radios for our BRPs. Do we need to buy another crystal set for both of our cars to be able to race?

We also only have one charger and are hoping we can make do with that for at least this weekend???

I have two 1700mAh battery packs for my Pro 3 but we only have one 600mAh pack for each of our BRPs. Will this be good enough I hope?

Do we need to buy the transponder for recording our laps or are they provided?

If anyone could list the items they use on race day or what the minimum items you needed to race I would appreciate it.

Thank you,

cnc137.


----------



## 2slow00

cnc you should have an extra set of crystals for each car. Most of us have at least 3. If you can I would also suggest that you should have another charger.It will be hard to keep up with 1 charger. The transponders are provided ,you will pick it up just before each race and return it before you go to turn marshal. I'm sure the club and the racers will work with you and be of any help that we can. Don't be afraid to ask questions.See you Sunday.


----------



## Guest

Thanks for the advice. I am planning on buying an extra set of crystals for my car and I will let my brother know also. I don't know if we are going to be able to have another charger since my brother wanted to order his online at TowerHobbies.com since he has a gift certificate and a coupon for $10 off. So, I don't think we are going to have an extra charger this Sunday but hopefully we can make do. 

I have another question. Do we need a discharger or are the batteries normally pretty much discharged by the time the race is over? We don't have one and I don't feel like buying one right now. Can I just charge the batteries even though they aren't all the way run down? Will that hurt them??? I usually hold the trigger on my radio controller at my house until the tires stop spinning to run the batteries down but that won't work at the track since I might be controlling someone else's car.









Last question. If my brother wanted to rent a BRP car for his daughter to race this Sunday how would he go about doing that? Does he need to call ahead or show up earlier or are they all already spoken for?

Thanks in advance for the help!

cnc137.


----------



## rayhuang

cnc-Get there around 7:30am if you would like to help set-up the track. 9:00 am for sign-up. Like 2Slow00 said-ask questions!!!!
I also agree you need one more charger.
Also-check out "Cleveland Style at the Brat" under On-Road Racing. That is the Bratenahl racers thread!!!! I'll list what you need for your HPI there!!! The owner of BRP will be at the track Sunday so he should have everything you need for that car!!!

[This message has been edited by rayhuang (edited 01-16-2002).]


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## 2slow00

cnc e-mail Bud and see if there are more Brp rentals available. If you get one you will never be able to keep up with just the one charger. You might want to wait to race the sedan another day.


----------



## Guest

I have to race the Pro 3 or my wife will kill me since I paid a lot of money for it last October and when I was buying the BRP to race with my brother she asked me if I was going to still use the expensive car and I told her yes. So, if I would not race it I probably wouldn't be allowed back in the house.







hehe... lol...









Does bud rent chargers???







hehe...


----------



## BudBartos

CNC >> I will have a extra charger there you can use and buy if you like! Just bring what you think you will need, there will be lots of folks that will help you out. I pit up on the stage by the way.
TO ALL >> the new magnets are on the web site #432


----------



## k1m

Bud: what's the trick to getting the clips out that hold the magnets in without deforming them? I can hook onto them from the open end with needlenose pliers and slide it out, but it gets bent by the time I get it out where I can get ahold of it.

[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 01-16-2002).]


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## Nil

cnc:

My son & I manage OK on one charger with two touring cars and one BRP. We have lots of batteries for the TCs, but only one for the BRP.

We don't bother to discharge in between. When we get better, maybe some of the niceties these experts talk about will matter, but with only a year of experience so far, the edge in speed doesn't matter much.

Hope you don't break the HPI; it might be hard to bum parts for it. We've found everybody generous in providing parts & advice to keep us running, but TC3s are in best supply. 

Nil


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## Impactplayr

K1M- push the magnets out with a screwdriver before you remove the clips....getting them back in...well that's another story..LOL


----------



## rayhuang

Hello all, another BRP SC18 was born to this world last night at 11pm!!!!! What a cool little car!!! Can't wait to race it Sunday!!!


----------



## marioparnelli

Ray...I hope you didn't paint your car red, yellow, and green


----------



## BudBartos

K1M.>>>Push one magnet out do not upset clips, push new one in that spot then remove the other and push the other new one in.At least thats what I have done! If you still have trouble break out the super glue


----------



## Guest

Bud, wait till you see what Don D. found. Looking forward to sunday, Pete & myself are only running 1/18 only, no touring sunday.


----------



## k1m

If one of you guys that race at the Brat could get a pic of that early BRP and post it here, I'm sure we'd all like to see it. I understand the chassis was made of folded lexan?


----------



## aeracer

Does anyone have any information on the 16D deathstar motors? I remember them being mentioned earlier in this thread, but I don't recall anyone mentioning the performance. 
Thank you,
AEracer


----------



## OvalmanPA

Performance of the 16D deathstar is pretty good. They seem to have more torque than the green endbell motors that originally came with our BuRPs without sacrificing to much top end.


----------



## Nil

[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 01-18-2002).]


----------



## k1m

AEracer: The Deathstar motors were inexpensive speedy little motors. We did have one that the comm just came apart on though. The green endbell Parmas that come with BRPs are epoxy balanced and seem to last quite a while. With any of these 16d motors, make sure they're not bound up after you tighten the mountings screws.


----------



## Guest

is anyone here uses ES-01 ESC with no problem?


----------



## k1m

I don't recommend using an ES-01 with 16d motors. They're better suited to Mini Z's and Micro's.


----------



## Guest

how 'bout with the stock motor, is it okay to use it?


----------



## Impactplayr

The stock motor is a 16D.


----------



## 2slow00

Congratulations to Bud Bartos for winning the first ever 1/18th scale nationals. 28 racers showed up for this event. There were door prizes including a televison set and a C D player.


----------



## BudBartos

2slowwoo >>> That happens to be the 1/18th WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS







Great turn out today 28, 1/18th BRP racers cutting the carpet on a super fast track layout. 
TO ALL >> I have had trouble getting those magnet clips back in when installing the new XP magnets. I think it is just best to glue them in, I have been using medium Zap glue use a good amount and also use the accelerator. Oh yes clean the can and magnets with motor spray.


----------



## Nil

Bud:

Thanks for all the fun & stuff today. I have to admit to being mystified by the question about whether anyone wants to continue the series next year. Look at the numbers:


Code:


21-Oct   11
4-Nov    16
18-Nov   16
2-Dec    22
6-Jan    17
20-Jan   28

Compared to three at the beginning of the summer, this is quite an increase.

I think the real question is, if this keeps up, will NORCAR be able to accomodate BRPs in another year. Obviously, the scale has a life of it's own.

Nil


----------



## rayhuang

Had a great time racing my BRP car for the first time today!!! I was very lucky that they put me in the fastest qualifying group. These cars are a hoot to drive!!! They take so much concentration and are really fun to battle door to door with!!!

And like NIL said, they have a life all there own!!!! I hope Dawnn is not really going to quit though. But if she retires, she retires on top!!! Great win!!!! Kelly is sure to take her place as the "super fast woman" racer!!!!


----------



## 2slow00

Bud sorry about that. I ment to say World Championship winner. Had a great time. My motor was very fast with the old magnets. Alas if I could only DRIVE!


----------



## Guest

I wish I could've made it on Sunday for all the fun. My brother got sick Saturday night and couldn't make it so I decided to stay home and work around the house and watch the football games. Hopefully, we can make it to the next race on Feb. 3rd. It sounds like you guys had a great time.


----------



## BudBartos

cnc137 >> It was a good day! I'm sick now and the guy that works for me is sick, that time of the year.
Hope you can make it on the 3rd.


----------



## Guest

had a BLAST! I think will get 30 BRPs next race.


----------



## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by cnc137:
> * Hopefully, we can make it to the next race on Feb. 3rd. *</font>


CNC:

Get a T-shirt that says cnc137 or something. We were looking forward to meeting you.

Nil


----------



## BudBartos

Hey guys here is a picture on the NORCAR web site of all the happy BRP 1/18th racers








www.the-big-al.com/norcar/pictures4.htm


----------



## OvalmanPA

Another great day of racing at Racers Edge R/C Racing & Hobbies even though we only had 6 racers. We even had a new track record and bear with me, it's a little complicated.









First of all we actually had two people break the record but since only the first one across the line counts..... First our present track record holders car (K1Ms, Da Wedge) broke the track record officially. Now I say *just* his car because he wasn't behind the wheel of it! See K1M lent his car out to a visiting racer (Justin Johnson) for the main and he proceded to obliterate the old record with a run of 35 laps. Next K1M broke the old record in the main himself but behind the wheel of his wifes car since she decided to let him run hers for the main (hers is faster!







)

So I guess the official record setting that will now be put on the website will be Kim Fortners car with an * that says Justin Johnson was at the wheel.


----------



## k1m

Wow!! What a race! Think Justin had a good time? And to think he didn't need an M8 or Cyclone ESC or anything else high tech or expensive to do it! Hehehehe! The smile on his face while he was racing was priceless. Justin has alot of experience racing 1/12 scale and touring cars. It was killing him that there was nothing much to wrench on....I did let him give it alittle more toe and he put alittle tire compound on the front tires.
Don ran 33 laps also I think....It's time the bar was raised.

Must have been those ICEBOX KRYPTONITE batterys!


----------



## hankster

Just an FYI. Bud took 1st at the CRL race in Lansing today after qualifing 3rd. The leaders got tangled at the begiining of the race, Bud took the lead and never looked back... but he had some big time pressure at the end. Top 2 finishers had 32 laps, the next 4 had 30 laps. I managed to keep out of trouble after qualifing 8th to finish 5th. There were a total of 14 drivers.


----------



## OvalmanPA

Dang, I forgot all about Don breaking the record too! Sorry Donalbain!







So we actually had three of our six cars run faster than the previous track record this week. 

I better get my head outta..... LOL


----------



## marioparnelli

Thanks for the info Hank. Way to go Bud!


----------



## OvalmanPA

Oh yes, it seems we might be getting a couple people with RS4 micros here in a couple weeks so we can finally see exactly how they stack up against our BuRPs.


----------



## BudBartos

Thanks Hankster!!! Let me tell you all that was a real intense race in Lansing. The track was small and very slippery to start but as we put some laps on it the bite came up nicely. The guy that set TQ bought the car on saturday nite, built it at the track, went home and painted the body. He was fast! The second place quailifier was a Micro owner that swithed to the BRP car!(can't say here how he compared the two) I made some last second changes to my car while taking some laps before the A main and that made all the difference, picking up two laps over my qualifing time. What I had to do was go to the Med compound front tires to get more steering on the tight track. It was a close and fun race with the TQ just feet behind me at the finish.
Thanks to all that put on the race and Terry Rott for building that awsome track.
Hank great job on your finish after not racing much and no practice you did great.


----------



## Rich Chang

Hi Bud!

That was a fun heat to watch! Too bad the day turned out so long that you didn't get a chance to run 3 qualifiers.

The guy that TQ'd is one of my buddies - Fred Baumgartner.

Walt Henderson (Team AE) took Fred's car around on the track during a break in the mains and he really like the car!

Keith Hamilton's car was just plain sweet with the Corvette body that had working headlights and brake lights!


----------



## 2slow00

Bud , have the new style BRP bodies arrived? I will be in the market for a new one soon. Also please bring some orange fronts, mine are coning pretty bad.


----------



## Donalbain

Could we see longer 1/18th races next season? The 1/12th was a tad boring, there were only 2 cars on the track. K1m was right, it sure gets quiet when they race. BRP races (@5min) goes so quickly!


----------



## aeracer

2slow00- Do you have inside info on the new BRP bodies? Care to let everyone else in, or does Bud have you on a Gag order?
Just kidding


----------



## OvalmanPA

Don......ya know, Justin asked that very question. He wanted to know how long you could run them and when I said about 20 minutes he asked why we didn't run longer races?

Maybe at the beginning of next season we'll have to take a BuRP vote on longer races? Don't really wanna change anything for this season now.


----------



## 2slow00

aeracer, rumor has it that a new Saleen type body will be available soon.


----------



## BudBartos

Yes we will have the Saleen S7 hopefully next week. It will be called a SA type sports racer P.N.262 $18.00 with window masks and wing kit


----------



## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *Yes we will have the Saleen S7 hopefully next week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *</font>


Bud:

Good move. One problem, though. The kid is going to be all over me to get him one. Think you could hide them when we show up?

Nil


----------



## 2slow00

Nil you should have kept that big screen TV you won at the Worlds and made a deal with Bud.


----------



## kanesurfguru

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by OvalmanPA:
> *Don......ya know, Justin asked that very question. He wanted to know how long you could run them and when I said about 20 minutes he asked why we didn't run longer races?
> 
> Maybe at the beginning of next season we'll have to take a BuRP vote on longer races? Don't really wanna change anything for this season now.*</font>



Longer races? as slow as we are now, we don't get out of there until 6pm and thats with only 30 racers.







That would mean I would miss all of the football games.









Glad to hear you guys are breaking the records with the "ICEBOX" kryptonites. The Best battery for the best price, CHEAP!!!

Hope to see everyone Sunday as Racers Edge RC Racing.


----------



## Guest

Bud, save one of thoes bodys for me, or bring an extra one.
Thanks, Dan Medved


----------



## OvalmanPA

KSG....It's not the football games I care about, NASCAR season is almost uppon us again!!







I'd allow a TV at the track if I knew for sure it wouldn't cause a *major* distraction but I *know* from past experience that it does.









Hope you can make it this week. Get that new battery hold down for your Pro stocker done yet?


----------



## 2slow00

I just counted the number of drivers who have raced an 18th scale at the Brat this season. 40 diferent drivers. I think all were BRP cars. Maybe 1 or 2 HPI's. Just think if everyone shows up some week. What a blast.


----------



## BudBartos

2slowOO >> That would be cool! Only if we could run all at the same time








See you all Sunday!
Remember we all have fun racing BRP 1/18th scale cars


----------



## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *2slowOO >> Only if we could run all at the same time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *</font>


Maybe next summer at Eastlake? There's room for a lot of bitty cars there. 

Nil


----------



## Guest

Hi guys, I just wanted to let you know that The Speedster Racing website has now a new forum for 1/18 scale. I know this forum has been great for everyone but I'd like to ask you to try it out and let me know what do you think. Here is the link:

http://www.teamspeedster.com 

under 18th avenue on the left nav, click on Speedster Forum. I hope you like it. Thanks.


----------



## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by speedster:
> *Hi guys, I just wanted to let you know that The Speedster Racing website has now a new forum for 1/18 scale. I know this forum has been great for everyone but I'd like to ask you to try it out and let me know what do you think. *</font>


A couple of things, Speedster. This may be related to my set up; I'm not sure. I run Netscape Navigator with Java & cookies turned off; I feel better that way.

Anyway, with a lot of links, I get Error: "The parameter is incorrect." One place this happens is the BRP pictures gallery.

Second issue, I didn't see anyplace to submit a review. What am I missing?

Looks pretty good, otherwise.

Nil


----------



## Guest

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by Nil:
> * A couple of things, Speedster. This may be related to my set up; I'm not sure. I run Netscape Navigator with Java & cookies turned off; I feel better that way.
> 
> Anyway, with a lot of links, I get Error: "The parameter is incorrect." One place this happens is the BRP pictures gallery.
> 
> Second issue, I didn't see anyplace to submit a review. What am I missing?
> 
> Looks pretty good, otherwise.
> 
> Nil
> 
> *</font>


The Review section is under "18th Avenue" You just click on one of the categroy and select one of the item you wanted to submit your review on. but anyway, can you email me the error that you are getting. that would really help me a lot. i'd appreciate it. thanks.


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## 2slow00

24 BRP cars today at the Brat. The personal transpoder worked out great. I mounted it on top of the steering servo.


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by 2slow00:
> *The personal transpoder worked out great. *</font>


*WHAT?* You had a new toy and didn't show me! This means war. And you thought all those rubber bands were to hold down batteries.









Nil


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## 2slow00

Nil we just ran it in the main to see how it worked. I think its a good deal.


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## OvalmanPA

Another great day of racing at RER/CR&H in Smethport. We had 11 BuRPs show up to race and I ended up winning. K1M, Donalbain, and myself had one heck of a battle going on for about the first two minutes of the race but then K1M hacked me (perfectly clean hack I might add!







) and I ended up in 3rd. I moved past Don awhile later when he ran into some trouble but it looked like I wasn't going to catch K1M. Then all of a sudden I see him slow and pull over. Seems he decided with 30 seconds to go to get another person interested in our BuRP racing!







I pretty much had this one handed to me on a silver platter.









After a bit of discussion we also decided that it should have actually been Don that got the track record last week with a run of 33/5:07.03. This is basically understandable since the wrong people were actually piloting the first and second place cars. So Don owned the track record for a week. Since we decided to negate the 35 lap run last week that means I beat Dons record this week with a 33/5:01.97 in the heat races.







hehehe


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## k1m

Yeah, BuRP racing is still the most fun!! I sat in on computer on some of the heats so I got to watch the races go down. Man, I'm glad I don't have to corner marshall! There's always a battle going on everywhere you look. Sometimes it's for the lead or at least position, sometimes it's just a battle to stay off the walls!









Ovalman: I think my car was damaged in the unfortunate collision you and I had and exhaust fumes were overcomming me.........Actually I meant to let Greg drive my BuRP earlier since he likes those wedge bodys so well.

Man some people will do anything to get their name in the record book!! Just kidding,.....I liked the track record certificate with "Da Wedge" on it!


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## OvalmanPA

Hehe........I'm sure the way everyone has been running the last couple weeks that it (record) won't stay there long.









Beavis made a funny during the second heat too. He said he's gonna put 8 laps on me when he gets his RS4 micro.









Oh yea...........Johna said you were on a 34 lap pace at one point. Not going to say what point but......









[This message has been edited by OvalmanPA (edited 02-05-2002).]


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## hankster

I just got a video up of the race we had for the CRL race in Lansing. Available are 33K, 100K and Cable/DSL versions. If you have a slow connection, you can download the higher quality versions and play it off your hard drive if you want. 1 minute 33 seconds long.

You can find it at http://teamrcv.com/article.php?sid=183 and it is also available from the BRP web site.


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## Donalbain

uhhh, did i miss something? I had the record? doh!! lame, rick, lame.


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## Impactplayr

Awesome video, I loved it!!!!!


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## k1m

Great job on the video Hank!....Looks like it was a stiff competition and an awesome track!
Bud: assuming you were the green and white car, who was driving the red car? He really gave you a run anyway. One question: about half way through the video it looks like you had a MAJOR crash on a right hander, how'd you catch back up? Looks like it was a real dogfight.....that's what makes it fun, huh?


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## BudBartos

K1m>>> I'm the white orange and green car that you see at the begining of the race. The red car is one of my Rent-A-Racers driven by David Johnson who happens to be one of the best racers around. The car with more green on it later in the race had headlights and brake lights. 
Good Job on that video Hank


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## Guest

Speedster Forum is back and running. You may register @ http://www.teamspeedster.com/forum 

[This message has been edited by speedster (edited 02-11-2002).]


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## k1m

Nine BuRP racers lined up here in chilly Pennsylvania on Sunday and the action was HOT! Ovalman had a problem with the track's lap counter so he had a substitute driver. "Pune" did a masterful job piloting his BuRP for him in the qualifiers. Don was TQ but I squeezed out the win with Don taking 2nd and Chris in 3rd. 

Bud: What's the best way to change a BRP motor? I've been removing the right hub and the right side motor plate. Is there an easier way to get the motor out of the rear pod?


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## OvalmanPA

K1M.....I can answer that one. Use a GREAT deal of patience and wiggle it just right.









This is kind of like those puzzles that the piece can fit ONLY one way. The motors go in and out of those rear pods without taking anything apart but they only do it one certain way.


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by OvalmanPA:
> *The motors go in and out of those rear pods without taking anything apart but they only do it one certain way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *</font>


Ovalman:

How do you wire them to be able to do this? Do you use connectors between the ESC & motor, or leave enough slack to get the iron on it after it's out?

Nil


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## OvalmanPA

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by Nil:
> * Ovalman:
> 
> How do you wire them to be able to do this? Do you use connectors between the ESC & motor, or leave enough slack to get the iron on it after it's out?
> 
> Nil*</font>


Nil,

I take the wires off before I take the motor out. You have to be careful to not make toast of the purty blue pod but it can be done.


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## BudBartos

K1M>>> It should fit right out the back of the pod! Thats how I do it.
Will put a link on for the new Saleen S7 body as soon as Hank gets it on the web site.


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## hankster

A pic of the new body is on-line. Find it at http://www.brpracing.com/262.html


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## BudBartos

Hey BRP racers we have a new Body go to the link above to check it out!
Also coming are inner wheels that will allow you to use the HPI Micro RS4 outer wheels and rubber tires on your SC18. The standard Micro tires work fine on ashphlat and seem like they will wear real well. I will let you all know when these will be ready


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *Hey BRP racers we have a new Body go to the link above to check it out!
> *</font>


Bud:

Judging by the response times, your server is taking some heavy hits with your new body. Looks good, except the CV is a hard act to follow.

Are you going to have one Sunday in the flesh ?

Can't wait to see it.

Nil


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## BudBartos

NIL>>> I will have them at the race


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## BudBartos

We had another good turnout for the BRP 1/18th cars today I beleive 23 racers.
The new Saleen body worked very well and looks great to. I also tested the wheel hub adapters thes are inner wheels that go on the BRP car and allow you to use the HPI Micro outer wheels, they just push on. Hope to have those ready to shipp by the end of this week.


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## OvalmanPA

I know it's more than just one thing (magnets) but K1M has his car HAULLLLIN' baby! New track record today, plastering the 33 lap previous record with a 35/5:08.18. He let me drive his car and man is that thing not only FAST but handles like a dream. Don and myself had to settle for second and third respectivly with the other half of Team Fortner (Joy) finishing fourth. The remaining finishers were The Cook, Carpetburner, and Cory. Fairly light turnout of BuRPs today but the racing was still great.


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by OvalmanPA:
> *K1M has his car HAULLLLIN' baby! *</font>


Get him over to Bratenahl. I'd like to see Bud challenged for once. The guy is TOO good. Claims his car is box stock, and I believe him. The driving is just smooooooth.









Nil


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## Guest

K1M where do you race at? Maybe something can be worked out, we come to your track, you come to our track. What do you think?


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by DanMedved:
> *K1M where do you race at? Maybe something can be worked out, we come to your track, you come to our track. What do you think?
> *</font>


How about neutral ground. Bud's talking about going to Classic in Akron Saturday. But that finishes up pretty late for folks driving back to PA.

Nil


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## OvalmanPA

DanMedved...K1M races at my track, Racers Edge R/C Racing & Hobbies in Smethport, Pa. We've talked before about a little grudge match between us and the guys that race over across the border to our left but that's about all the farther it's gone.







It's a long haul for either us to go there or those guys to come here unfortunatly. 

I think K1M could give ol' Bud a run for his money right now though.


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## k1m

Bud: I feel kinda dumb about asking how to get the motors out but I'm glad I did, you're right - they fit right out the back of the pod. Sure makes my life easier! Heheheh! I tried to get it out thru the top and bottom hole AND the back, but didn't think it fit. The enlarged hole in the top plate makes soldering on the wires easier.


I gave the new XP Super power magnets #432 a try this week. More torque, more speed, cooler motor...they were a snap to change too. I practiced on an old motor first, but just push the old magnets out one at a time - replace one then do the other (leave the clips alone) and be sure to put the white marked one on the side of the can with the arrow.
I tried replacing the magnets on an old "Deathstar" with disappointing results. 
But when I put a set in a new green endbell motor it really created a beast!

I swear my BuRP is all stock....I'd like to put a bearing on the spur gear side of the rear axle, but it's all bushings and only occasional maintenance. I've run this car about a year now and I can say with zero broken parts. And I've RACED it pretty hard and had a ball with it. 

You can't get more R/C fun for your money than 1/18 scale racing!


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## k1m

Dan & Nil: I'd like nothing better than to share a drivers stand with you guys someday. Who knows - stranger things have happened. I drove clear to Fla. to see Lake Whipporwill and ended up getting some track time, but that's another story.......


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## BudBartos

K1M >> sound good! That is the best way I have found to do the magnets also.

TOO ALL BRP RACES>>> We are going to Classic hobbies to run Oval sat nite shop opens at 2:00 racing starts at 6:00.


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *We are going to Classic hobbies to run Oval sat nite .*</font>


Sounds good; not sure if I can make it but I'll try. Talking to the guy at Mentor Hobbytown yesterday; he's going to be there.

Nil


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## Guest

I was contacted by TV-8 yesterday they liked what thay saw last sunday when WOIO took some footage of our race, I called back left message, I'll keep you informed.
NORCAR


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by BudBartos:
> *We are going to Classic hobbies to run Oval sat nite *</font>


And a great time was had by all. It's a big (190 feet) banked carpet oval ( http://www.classichobbiesraceway.com/ ). Eleven BRPs and two HPIs made it. And now, we know: A good driver with an HPI *can* beat the worst driver with a slow BRP. Both the HPIs were in the B main with me, while the other ten BRPs ran in the A main. And, the HPI that managed to run through the whole race beat me, very badly, I might add. 

Bud did his usual excellent driving, but showed us something that may get into production. He put together some pod side plates to fit an Orion "Big Block" for the HPI into the BRP. He ran it in one of the qualifiers and it really *WHOMPED!*. It was a bit squirrely with all that power; Bud said it would be a real problem with the normal indoor carpet courses but should be lots of fun for parking lot bashing. 

Nil


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## marioparnelli

Nil... I had a great time at Classics last night. It was nice to run into you again and again and again







There must have been a huge magnet in are cars the way are cars kept finding each other! Sorry about that. Thanks to Walt of Classic's Hobbys for fitting us in when he already had a big crowd. I know it was a long night for him. It just goes to show, even a old _art like me can have BIG fun with a little car!!

[This message has been edited by marioparnelli (edited 02-24-2002).]


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by marioparnelli:
> *Nil... I had a great time at Classics last night. It was nice to run into you again and again and again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There must have been a huge magnet in are cars the way are cars kept finding each other! Sorry about that. *</font>



No hard feelings over lots of hard bumps. It was strange how you & I kept meeting, though. Odds favor a newbie like me taking out more people. 
Nil


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## Guest

Sounds like you guys had a good time. I had to work yesterday and would have gotten out there too late. Maybe another time.
See ya guys sunday.


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## 2slow00

A great time as had by all. Bud is the 18th scale carpet oval and onroad World Champion. Sporty its good to see you hooked up with Howard to form a unique racing team. Orange and white for life eh!


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## Guest

I am starting out fresh with no gear, would like to use my radio for more than one car, and maybe raceing later would AM surfice or should I go FM? I know its overkill for a BuRP but looking at the Futab 2PHKA or the Hitec Lynx FM. Second question is chargers thinking the new MRC Super Brain 959 looks like it will charge any batterys I will ever have. Third at one time I saw someone selling the green battery packs "kryptonite?" but cant find it now, any help? Thanks in advance. Love the new forum.


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## k1m

10 BuRPs lined up again this week but when it was over only one other mini racer was able to get into the "30 lap club" with me. KaneSurfGuru bounced his way around the course behind me with Don a close 3rd. Joy won the battle for 4rd with Mike (they're both fast)while Johna and Barb had their own battle going for 6th and 7th. Rick (Ovalman) went out early - I have an idea maybe his T-plate came loose. Ben was 9th and I'm afraid our newest racer, Buddy wasn't able to make the main. I tried to help him dial in his car earlier but he uses a stick radio. Other than setting the trims, it hard to say how it handles when I am so "stick impaired" - or "wheel dependent". Gotta get over that so I can drive my Battlebot someday!











[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 02-25-2002).]


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by jscharwath:
> *I am starting out fresh with no gear, would like to use my radio for more than one car, and maybe raceing later would AM surfice or should I go FM? *</font>


I can help with the first question, maybe someone will hop in on the others.

One transmitter will do fine, but with the hassle of changing receivers, I'd recommend getting a second receiver. The servo tape used to put them on isn't too terrible to take off, but time consuming. And, if the mounting surface is dirty, it will come off too easily. So, it's better not to try to take it off more than necessary. You'll likely find yourself driving one car just because it has the receiver in it.

Second issue, now that you have two receivers, you'll find that the trim settings for the two of them are not the same. It's unlikely that you can either of them to run dead straight without a little tweak on the transmitter adjustment, this is called trim. And the trim that makes one of them go straight will make the other one turn, when you want it to go straight.

There are two answers for this: Buy an expensive, computerized radio set that allows you to store the trim settings for individual cars. Or, for fewer bucks, buy two seperate sets.

I have done both. My son and I each got a low dollar Futaba set, and when we decided to "double our fun," I got a high dollar JR set and he uses the two Futabas. That way, we can all have trim settings for both our cars.

As far as FM or AM goes, I'd say, if you're just starting out, get AM for the cost. No sense in sinking big bucks into something you may be tired of in a year or so. 

For that matter, consider starting with just one car. Two cars are likely to be overwhelming to start with. Try to find out what other people race (or just run) in the area and "go with the flow." Having experienced R/Cers around can be a big help when you're beginning.

Nil


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## k1m

JS: A cheap AM radio is all thats needed for mini racing. If you decide to use 2 recievers, make sure you mount the servo the same way in both cars so you don't have to reverse one. If your radio has multi-model memorys, no problem. Not sure about the Super Brain charger.....I'd get one that you can set the charge rate from .50 - 5.00 Amps.

You can get Kryptonite AA's by contacting John Rezzelle at:

ka[email protected]


I know it's for a Micro, but check this Porsche out...........
http://www.jsbodies.com/micro001.jpg


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## OvalmanPA

*jscharwath*

I think most of the people at our track race more than one vehicle and there are only a few with FM models (me not being one of them either). If you do want the added security of FM then I'd say either of the models you asked about would work well but I've always been kind of partial to Futaba.

I can't honestly recommend the 959 charger for charging either. We got 2 of them at our track to sell and the one that has been sold has now been sent back for repairs and didn't work right from the beginning. This may be a fluke but it doesn't set a very good first impression. I'd check into one of the Duratrax chargers to do your charging. They seem to be pretty nice units.

And finally like K1M said, contact John Rezzelle for the "BuRP" cells to have.









*K1M*....actually, I had a set of crystals go bad. First time that has ever happened.


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## Impactplayr

If you want to run 2 cars and don't want to buy 2 radios just get the JR XR2, it is an AM computerized radio that has 2 model memory, and works with Futaba recievers and crystals. So you can get the radio for $99 and then order a Futaba 2pc radio set for $45... You will have 2 recievers, 2 sets of crystals and 4 servos, not to mention an extra radio just incase.... all for under $150.

For chargers I would get the best you can afford... see if you can find someone selling a mellinuim on one of the swap and sell boards, you can usually pick one up for around $75 and you will never need another charger.

Just a thought.


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## aeracer

Impact- your post about the JR XR2 caught my eye. I have a question regarding the inter changeability of the crystals. Do you use the Futaba crystal in the receiver only? My Local Hobby store said he didn't think I could use the Futaba crystals in the transmitter. Secondly, assuming you own a XR2, how do you like it?

Thank you,
AEracer


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## ancientsgamer

Have been lurking on this site for a few days and have been convinced in buying an SC18. I am new to the hobby as I haven't kept up in a few years. I have an HPI Nitro Racer (2WD) but never got past the rolling chassis stage as time constraints don't allow me to go to the track on a regular basis and nitro is not condusive to practicing at home!

I have some questions regarding what I should buy. Here is my initial list, please review and comment if you will. I really am not well versed in RC!

SC18 with stock car body
Motor upgrade magnets #432
Hidden antenna kit
Ball differential kit
6 Cell BRP battery pack
Orange tire kit for asphalt

I have a JR XR2 but will probably sell it with my HPI as I think I will get more $ for it (correct me if I am wrong!) I would still need an esc though.

Any suggestions as to radio and esc? 
Any that are sold together? 
I know that regular servos are fine but wouldn't I be better off getting a micro servo because of weight?
I am worried about interferance with AM, should I get an FM system? 27 or 75 MHZ?

I have read some of the posting on chargers. Being that I am fairly ignorant on chargers and batteries, am I better off getting one of the newer digital auto chargers? Would you recommend some in particular?

I am in San Antonio and the only track that I know of is the Hobbytown outdoor track. Mostly 1/10 scale nitro and electrics but they do have an HPI micro class (don't know if I can bring a BRP yet) Is anyone on this list from San Antonio? 

Thanks!

Chris

(who is not really old but like to wargame as well as other hobbies....)

[This message has been edited by ancientsgamer (edited 02-27-2002).]


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## BudBartos

Chris>> You have the right idea on all the BRP parts. FM radios have less glitching troubles but of course cost slightly more.
A faster servo is better but if you go with a small one use a servo saver. Chargers get on that you can adjust current on.
Hope they let you run the BRP cars, but don't beat them by too much








We will have optional wheel hubs that will allow you to use the Micro outer wheels and rubber tires for ashpalt. They should be on web site next week #361


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## k1m

Ancient: Welcome to 1/18 Scale Racing!
The Futaba MC230CR is a tiny reversing ESC that works great in BRP's. You can get a Futaba 2PC Sport W/MC230CR for $85 or the 2PCKA Magnum W/MC230CR for $100.
I have had no trouble at all running with 9 other racers with AM 75 MHZ.
Check out the Duratrax line of intellipeak chargers, they start at $55. You'll want to be able to charge AA's at 1-2 Amps.
Take Bud's advise and buy a servo saver. And don't whoop on those micros too bad, they might not let you play again! 








Here's a link to my Mini R/C website and my pit tips page:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPhome.html
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html


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## k1m

Bud: Speaking of links, how about a link to my site from brpracing.com? Maybe I could put a bug in your webmaster's ear.......Hehehhe!


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## Impactplayr

I have actually owned 2 JR XR2 radios, YES I use the futaba crystals all around, even in the transmitter and have not one problem with glitching. Only at the high school we race at occasionally....but that is a high CB radio area, with many power lines, and lots of RF security systems and all the AM radios glitch occasionally.... BAD example because this place is a one in one-hundred thousand place...LOL I love the XR2, I origionally got rid of my first one when I got my Mars EX-1, and thought I would never need one agian, then my wife got into BRP's and I knew she needed a radio so she could race me. (nobody touches my ex-1...LOL) So when I weighted the options we got another XR2, for $20 more and all the options, there are was no question in my mind.....


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## SecretSquirrel

I am in no way trying to get you to leave this great discussion, but if you want to see some 1/18th scale fireworks, go to the On-Road and look for CRL - Toledo Edition. Major discussions going on about the HPI vs. BRP vs. Reilly Innovations.

Its cool
SS


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## ancientsgamer

Thanks for the help guys!

Of course, I have a couple of other questions... ;-)

The duratrax chargers state that you shouldn't charge anything smaller than a "sub-C" size, aren't AA's smaller?
see this link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUF46&P=7

I guess I am still at a loss on the chargers. I want something easy to use and I assume that a charger is something that is worth investing in. I like the idea that these chargers can peak charge, switch to trickle auto and that they can do Nimh batteries too. Any advice on chargers is most appreciated!

I think I will take the suggestion on AM for now and move up later. I think the beauty of the BRP is lots of bang for the buck! (thanks Bud!)


Thanks again to all that have responded!

Chris


[This message has been edited by ancientsgamer (edited 02-28-2002).]


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## Guest

Right, that is what I had read not to be used for smaller than sub-c cells, is this bunk for all of you that have used them? I thought that if it would charge at .5 to 1 amp and at 7.2volts that the cell size would not matter. By the way I would like to only buy 1 charger to use for everything radio, car, NiCd NiMh ect. Can you use the cars battery pack to run the reciver ,fatuba mc230cr, or whill I need a reciver pack? 

thanks for all the replies.


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## Guest

Is there anyone on the list close to me? I am in Hattiesburg Mississippi close to gulf coast.


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## Impactplayr

With todays reciever they have a special curcuit that is called BEC or Batter eliminator cuircut. You will not need a reciever pack, nor will you have todo any fancy wiring.Just plug it in and go. Only nitro vehicles need reciever battery packs.


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## k1m

Ancient: I checked out your link and I believe they are referring to not using the discharge feature on anything other than 
sub-c cells. As long as you can turn the current (charge rate) down to .50a - 2.00a you should be able to charge AA's. And being able to charge up to 8 cells is nice because then you can charge your radio AA's too. If you're going to play with electric R/C then a good charger is indeed a good investment. Peak is the only way to go, adjustable charge rate, NiMH capable is too. And digital displays are nice too.

JS: Most newer radios do not require you to use a reciever battery, it will use your car's pack as long as you're using an Electronic Speed Control.

SecretSquirrel: thanx for the heads-up on the On-Road discussion. The CRL sounds like it's having some 1/18 scale growing pains. I think keeping it simple and fun is important. My bet is they'll have to make two classes to keep everyone happy.

I'd like to know more about the Reilly Innovation cars, is there a website?


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## ancientsgamer

K1M,

Well, I went to the Duratrax site and it states: Can IntelliPeak chargers be used to charge discharge AA nicads? 

"The IntelliPeak series chargers with the discharge feature should not be used to discharge battery packs that are smaller that Sub-C's." http://www.duratrax.com/faq/product-faq.html#q485

So you were right! I will just have to use something like a Dean's discharger I suppose. 

Looks like Tower Hobbies will be losing sales until they update the description of the Intellipeak chargers.

I have decided to keep my JR XR2 and use it for my buds car. I don't have it in front of me but I am hping it has a BEC on it. You wouldn't happen to know how long BEC's have been on receivers would you? I think this is a 1998 unit... Oh well, I will check when I get home...

Thanks for the help!

Chris

PS. Here is a link to a review of the Intellipeak: http://www.wildhobbies.com/rc_cars/reviews/Default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=39

[This message has been edited by ancientsgamer (edited 03-01-2002).]


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## 2slow00

We dicharge our AA's with 2 tail light bulbs. I think BRP sells one or you can make your own.


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## ancientsgamer

2Slow000, Thanks for the advice. 

Bud, a question: if the HPI Micro Viper fits your SC18, does this mean that any 140mm from HPI should fit? I think the Porsche is the same size and I was curious if it would fit.

This is what Tower says: "COMMENTS: This body matches the measurements of the Viper body." "The included spoiler is not the traditional Whale-Tail, but more like a GT style wing."

Maybe my question is already answered with this quote?

Bud, do you need your mounting kit for these? If not, what specifically are your SC18 body mounting kits for?

Now, I need to figure out motors... I have read the posts and I am assuming that you have slot car type motors? 16D if I am not mistaken..... Now, what other types can you use? Can you use a similar one to the HPI micro and the HPI micro hopup motors from other companies? If so, any type of adapter needed?

Bud, thanks so much for the answers you have already given!

Chris


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## BudBartos

anciantsgamer>> Our bodies will work on the 140mm Micro but the Micro bods may not work on the SC18 they make them all different widths.You should be able to use the stock mounts that come in the kits, we sell the mounting kit if you need extra rear and front mounts.
The motor that we use in the SC18 is faster than the Micro motor and even the HPI Mod motor. We are coming out with a conversion rear pod that will let you use the Orion Big Block motor in the SC18 and this motor is way fast. I hope to have this part on the web site next week along with our new wheel hubs that will let you use Micro outer wheels on the BRP car.


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## Guest

Can someone please tell me the size of the hex driver I need for the BRP wheel set screws? I need to order another one... Is it a 1.5 mm?

Thanks!

Paul


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## Nil

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by thewog:
> *Can someone please tell me the size of the hex driver I need for the BRP wheel set screws? *</font>


0.05 *inch*. You should be able to pick one up at any hardware store, auto parts, etc., (at least you can on this side of the Great Lakes) but you may have to buy a whole set. In hobby shops, it's often labelled as "4-40 set screw" size.

Nil

[This message has been edited by Nil (edited 03-03-2002).]


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## Nil

Great turn out today at Bratenahl. Twenty BRPs going at it; just two mains, so the track was a bit crowded.

Waiting to hear how our errant children fared in the west. Didja whomp'em, Bud?


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## Guest

WANTED: People to show up for the TV-8 morning show, we will need racers to run there cars during the morning show between 6:30 & 9:00am one day durning the week (I'll let you know the date). I need to know if we can get some people to show up for this.
The track will be set-up the night before & I'll take it down that evening.
If you can show up please let me know.
Thanks


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## BudBartos

NIL>> I finished second was in the led two turns fron the finish and came up a a slower car, so I fig. I would just follow to the line and wham ##$%$%^^ next thing I'm in the wall







We had a good time with 13 cars racing no Micros guess they ran out of $$ buying all those parts







. I'm going to try some 2/3A cells thats what three of the guys were running and I think they have more power.


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## OvalmanPA

We had 8 cars this week to throw down on the carpet at RER/CR&H with our first look at an HPI micro. Justin has decided to be the first um, "sucker" to try out an RS4 micro.







He had real problems not only trying to keep it wheels side down but keeping the pinion on also. As always K1M came out on top followed closely by Don, each with 31 laps. We only have 3 weeks remaining in our indoor season and I'm really going to miss the BuRP racing until we get started outdoors this summer. This may only be a bragging rights class at our track but it is still the most fun to be had with your clothes on!









[This message has been edited by OvalmanPA (edited 03-04-2002).]


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## ancientsgamer

Motor Questions:

Bud, sorry if this is a bother! I read your post to my previous one about motors (thanks!!). I know that the stock motor in your cars is a 16D slot car style, are the big block motors like Orion has C-can slot car motors(if not, what size are they)? If so, shouldn't I be able to buy a slot car motor as long as I use your big block bracket you say you are coming out with?

Assuming that my above assumptions are correct, what are the specs to look for in a slot car motor? Is there an input voltage, amperage and RPM range to look for? Will too much RPM be counter-productive?

I used to have fun with my slot cars in my younger days and have had a peak around the web for slot car news and such. It surprised me how much info there is and how far slot cars have come! There are a wealth of 16D and C can motors out there. Frankly, Orion's prices leave a lot to be desired for their motors. I suspect that they are relabling other maker's motors with their brand name.

I hope I haven't thrown too many questions at you!

Thanks!!

Chris


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## k1m

Yeah, the micro was kind of a dissapointment after waiting this long to race with one. It had speed for sure, but it's rubber tires weren't working on the ozite. I'm sure he'll get the bugs worked out of it.....he wrenched on it all day and I'm also sure he'll have all kind of hop-ups in no time.

I think I may have to actually fix something on mine for the first time in a long time. Looks like I bent the rear axle somehow....at least I think so, I've got an awful wobble to my rear tires and the gears don't sound too smooth.

Ancient: This is the best place to get answers to all your questions, no problem. We all answer the ones we can, and look to "Da Man" for the rest.
The BRP motors are 16d slot car motors, and you can get other accessories for them from:
http://cyberslot.net They have pinion pullers and lots of other goodies at FasTrak Hobby Center. We tried some of their "Deathstar" motors last year with pretty good results. Bud's green endbell motors really scream with the XP magnets in them.

I'd like to play with brushes sometime and I hear the Mura Big Foot brushes will work. Anyone know where I can get ahold of a couple of pairs?

After running a search at Fastrak for Mura and Big Foot, I came up with this, Hummmm.....
Code: KOFM486

Super Big Foot II Brushes-Same Quality, New Source-Pair
$ 3.33 

Koford



[This message has been edited by k1m (edited 03-04-2002).]


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## OvalmanPA

K1M...........why worry about a bent axle, you should see how bad mine is. It's getting hard to get in and out of the bushings. LOL


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## BudBartos

K1m >> Was that micro stock?? I added up all the hopups for a dream killer micro WOW with the retail of the car kit at only $100.00 and NO radio gear My killer micro would cost $850.00 outrages. And I bet it would still roll over.
Well anyhow we raced in Toledo at the CRL race and had 13 BRP cars several had the Reily conversion on them. I finished second after a last turn crash, Thats racing







The Reily conversion has a saddle pack graphite chassis that uses 2/3 A cells which I feel put out more power.
I tested the Orion big block motor and it was 1 lap faster but almost too fast, we all ran the stock kit motors the rest of the day.
The new wheel hub adapters worked great and look awsome.Hope to have these two new items on the web site by end of the week.
The racing in Clevland went well to with 20 BRP racers going at it.


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## Guest

NORCAR will be running there cars and talking about the club on the morning news March 13th with Kenny Kropton from TV-8.
During the show they will show us racing our cars from the Brat, between 6:55 & 9:00am
can we get some people to show up?
Please let me know if you can make it.
[email protected]


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## med511

Hey guys, I'm new to this mini thing. I have a BRP SC-18 and so far I'm real impressed with it stock. What are the more popular hop-ups as far as motor, chassis, and which tires work best on what?

Thanks, Mike


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## gordonmoney

> <font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size="2">Originally posted by med511:
> *Hey guys, I'm new to this mini thing. I have a BRP SC-18 and so far I'm real impressed with it stock. What are the more popular hop-ups as far as motor, chassis, and which tires work best on what?
> 
> Thanks, Mike*</font>


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## gordonmoney

The most popular option is to leave it pretty much alone. Any mods tend to be along the lines of durability or ease of maintainence ie; bearings, servo saver, turnbuckles instead of wire linkage. There is one, absolutly, got to have it option; ball diff. The tires that come with the kit(blues I think) are fine on carpet. If you will run on a more abrasive surface, you may need to go somewhat harder for durability. On a more slippery surface, go to greens in the back. Unless you can drive like Bud Bartos, stick with the stock motor.Hope this helps.
Bud-thank you for the motor plates. The Orion mod conversion is AWSOME.(no,I can't drive like Bud but the car is a blast).


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## Impactplayr

Bud, I broke down and bought a micro, I must say it definately isn't an SC18, but I do like it. We have an oval we set-up in or garage on an ozite knock-off carpet. With the stock tires the Micro just slides like on glass. What I did was to get 2 sets of those Tamiya mini 4wd foams...I needed 2 sets cause they are smaller, but stretch and I tore 2..... Now the car doesn't slide as much, hooks up somewhat better, but is still more inconsistant than the Brp's. But the drama makes racing quite interesting. So when I wanna win consistantly I run my SC, but when I feel like screaming around the track, I breakout the Micro....

BUD, is it possible for you to make foam donuts in the same compounds as what your foams are currently, but made to mount on HPI rims.... Since you are coming out with the hubs, the donuts would be a good idea to follow, so that the BRP guys can have the nice wheels and not have to sacrifice the foams.


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## Guest

Hey BRP guys I went to post on the old board and you moved on me.I lost my track during the summer El Cajon R/C and slots.I would like to chime in on the 16D slotcar motors.Stick with the stock ones like Bud sells or the Death Star motors.I tried a hot Kofford motor . Fried the ARM after just a few laps.I have never seen smoke come out of the back of R/C car before.Cost $49.99 down the drain we even tried a not so hot ARM and it fried too so I was down another $20.00.I had the slotcar shop owner helping me rebuild the motor. So we stuck a stock arm in the can I have been running it ever since down $7.00. So the experiment cost me $76.99 + tax in about 1 hours time of running and rebuilding.I can't wait to get the new BRP HPI tire hubs so I can run on asphalt with out chewing up all my foam tires.I saw on ebay listed under HPI Micro in the search someone is making and selling nylon hubs with foam tires mounted and trued for the micro.I am glad I found this list again I was think about getting a micro. After reading about all the nightmares stories of repairs and handling problems I will stick with my BRP SC18.
Later,
Terry
San Diego,California


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## 2slow00

Bud are we going to run the paved oval 18th scale worlds and the concrete onroad 18th scale worlds this summer at Classic Hobbies? I think it would be a blast. I think both tracks are smooth enough.


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## marioparnelli

Bud, I agree with 2slow0. The oval at Classic's was a blast. We should do it again! We should come up with a catchy name for this event. Something like: " The 18th Scale Classic World Nationals at Classic's"


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## BudBartos

Sounds good







I'm thinking of running the 1/18th BRP on the dirt oval this sat at D&D
Let you know how it worked if I go.


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## OvalmanPA

Figured I'd better test out the new BB and make sure all my "adjustments" are good to go.

On a note of BuRPs also. May be needing a new motor soon. Seems like my Deathstar might be giving up the ghost. Might otta try one of Buds new motors and maybe slip in a set of them new magnets too.......naaawwwww.


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## OvalmanPA

Figured I'd better test out the new BB and make sure all my "adjustments" are good to go.

On a note of BuRPs also. May be needing a new motor soon. Seems like my Deathstar might be giving up the ghost. Might otta try one of Buds new motors and maybe slip in a set of them new magnets too.......naaawwwww.


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## OvalmanPA

Hehe...........seems I registered here before I was even born too!


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## Impactplayr

Just checking.......LOL


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## 2slow00

Bud did you make it to D&D Saturday?:thumbsup:


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## BudBartos

NO I just layed around for once! Check out my profile. I will be at the Brat with the awsome trophies to give out. The next weekend is a race in Toledo and I may go up there to run the BRP's
:wave:


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## 2slow00

I checked out your profile. It was hard to get to the private message. Probubly just me.


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## Guest

Hey Bud,
Here's an idea for the next racing series. How about a BuRPernational Race of Champions series??? Think about it Dirt Oval, Carpet Oval, Paved Oval, Asphalt Road Course and Cement Road Course. Sounds like fun to me. What do you think???:thumbsup:


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## BudBartos

Bill >> Sounds like alot of racing


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## 2slow00

I like that BuRPernational idea. Bud if you could put up a few grand in prize money.


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## Nil

2slow00 said:


> *I like that BuRPernational idea. Bud if you could put up a few grand in prize money. *


Hey, a few grand, or a grand time. Fun is harder to come by than money. 

Actually, is five races over the course of a summer a lot? 

And for prizes, we get to listen to Bud's "good ole times."

Nil


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## Impactplayr

Hey when mini-RC's are involved Fun is too easy to come by!!!


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## Guest

*TV-8 in the morning*

Bud, Be watching for my BRP car on TV-8 with Kenny Kropton, will be running though the news cast,about every 1/2 hour or so.


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## k1m

Sorry guys, I've been lost since the software changeover. I tried to post before but it didn't post.....
I like BuRPernational, it has a nice ring to it:wave: 
maybe later,


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## BudBartos

Dan >> I'll try to get up that early! Tell them the 1/18th cars are made in Elyria Ohio 
TO ALL 1/18th BRP racers from NORCAR I will have the trophies at the race sunday for the 2001/2002 series would like to hand out at the drivers meeting so everyone can see what you won!
To see all the results go to the NORCAR Web site.
See you all sunday:wave:


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## k1m

Kind of a strange week of racing at Racers Edge this week. Don and I pretty much slugged it out all day with him getting the short end of the stick in the main with a DNF. (Battery bar came loose I think) Chris' new SC18 Fun Won was a rocket right out of the box. KSG is FAST down the straight stretch, but I think he's still testing the front end's strength by wailing into the wall every now and then. Hehehehe! Ovalman needs more zip, his BuRP acts like it's only running on 5 cells. Even so, he was nice enough to give my BuRP "Da Wedge" a lift on top of his SuperTruck's bed piggyback! It must have happened during one of the unfortunate times when we might have got together and rubbed alittle.

Bud: I think the 52t spur gear is one of the best hop-ups for the SC18 so far. Probably due to the oillite bushing, I've raced mine 3-4 times every week for the last 4 months on the same spur gear. I only changed it because my axle got bent. Last year we were changing spur gears and pinions alot. Cooler motors, more torque, and longer life...a definate improvement!


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## BudBartos

Dick, Bill, Don, Dan and all that were on TV today it came out real nice we got lots of air time! Should be about 1,000 people at the race sunday wanting to rent those awsome BRP cars:thumbsup:


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## OvalmanPA

k1m said:


> *It must have happened during one of the unfortunate times when we might have got together and rubbed alittle.*


"Might" have got together and "rubbed" alittle. Hehe...........I like that. Perfectly clean hack.  Dunno what's up with my BuRP. Like you say it seems like it's on 4-5 cells. Takes off real good at the beginning of race but goes "flat" after a minute or so.


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## MaddMatt

*First Timer!*

hello everybody.

I just finished reading every post from the last 6 months or so and you guys have covered some ground! I just bought my first BRP SC18 after driving down to meet Bud face to face.

I have an odd question: What speed control would your recomend if I needed to car to go slow? I was all set to use the Futabe mc230cr but there is no high end adjustment. I realize this goes against everything you stand for but I have a small track and the cars are just too fast!

Thanks

Matt


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## BudBartos

Matt>>> Thats lot's of reading  
I have had good luck with those dynamite power plus units.


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## k1m

*Welcome MadMatt!*

You must have crossed eyes after reading so many posts, we're glad you hung in there. I think I would still go with the MC230CR because of it's size and reverse feature and because mine works great. I have limited it's speed by turning down the throttle ATV on my Magnum Junior transmitter. It's a handy feature when I lend it out to a newbie or racing in small spaces.(I tend to have kind of a lead finger too) You might also try a 4 or 5 cell battery pack to calm them down. The steering ATV comes in handy also when racing on different surfaces. Have fun!
Buffalo, huh? you're about 90 miles from Racers Edge here in Pa.


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## Impactplayr

Get teh duatrax esc100, it is made by Futaba, costs $32 from tower, and has a full throttle adjustment pod. The site will say it only works with 6-7cells, but we use them on 4.

look here: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXZS09&P=7


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## Guest

Just ran my SC18 with the new HPI hub adapters and HPI wheels and tires.Also the 52 tooth spur gear.The rubber tires are great I can run the car up and down the street in front of my house now.The car handles great on the not so smoooth asphalt.I also bought a couple GTP bodies from American Racing Models I bought the Toyota and the BMW LMP. I give BUD a big:thumbsup: for making the hubs they look like they are machined out the same high quailty plastic that all of BRP products are machined from.
Later,
Terry
Encinitas,Ca
VULCAN RING


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## MaddMatt

*ESC-100*

Thanks for the input everybody. I just ordered the Futaba 2PH from tower with the esc-100. For $90 total, hopefully it'll do the trick. I have only used the 2PC, but it seemed to be discontinued and tower recomended the 2PH and it was $1 cheaper so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Thanks again for the help

Madd Matt


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## ancientsgamer

*New Hubs*

Bud,

I have looked on your site and can't find the HPI hub adapters. Do I have to call the order in or are they available online? Also, how much are they and are they front or rear or just one size?

Thanks,

Chris


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## ancientsgamer

*American Racing Models Bodies*

Please let us know how these work out. I was under the impression that you had to use the 140mm body sizes. I think the AMR bodies are 150mm from looking on the website you provided.

I am interested in the GTP style of bodies as well. Please let us know how these work for you and if you had to modify them in any way to fit the BRP SC18 chassis.

Thanks!

Chris


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## Guest

The AMR bodies work great the BRP SC18 wheel base is 146mm and the AMR needs 150mm.So we are talking about a 4mm difference.I just mounted the body before I painted it and used my sharpie to mark the wheel wells.Then I cut it out and painted it.
Terry


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## Guest

Here is a photo of the BMW the quality is not very good
Terry


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## Guest

The Toyota
Terry


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## Guest

The SC18 with the hubs
Terry


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## ancientsgamer

*AMR Bodies*

Terry,

Thanks! Wow, really love those GTP bods! Have you tried 3M 77 adhesive spray on your new HPI tires? It really helps keep the rubber on (or so I have read) Looks like I see new HPI hub adapters and AMR GTP bodies in my future!

Bud, do you have the hubs in stock and can we order from your website yet? Also, your battery plugs; are they just one side or a pair? I am contemplating building my own packs.

Has anyone tried higher capacity NIMH 6 cell packs? I have seen AA cells up to 1800 Mah out there and was wondering if anyone has tried these and with what results.

Also, I have misplaced my instructions to building my SC18. If anyone could post a scan or email me at [email protected], I would appreciate it. Also, if you have any building hints as I recall the instructions not being as detailed as I would need. I started a new thread for FAQ as it has been very time consuming just viewing this thread for helpful hints! I would suggest that other threads get started as well as this will help everyone find the thread they are most interested in.

Take care,

Chris


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## Guest

Chris,
I just put a thin bead of Foam safe CA glue[no fume marks].On the front of the wheel groove around the rim.Works great:thumbsup: 
Terry


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## MaddMatt

*1800Mah batteries*

Chris:

I just ordered my 1800's and they should be in next week. I'll be happy to post the results of their initial tests once they come in.

Madd Matt


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## 2slow00

*batteries*

MadMatt, we run the stock packs in our series and they preform very well. I bought some 1600 nmh cells and they weren't as fast as the nicads but had much more run time.(good for practice) I would suggest switching your plugs from the stock to the gold post Trinity type plug they take up much less room. :thumbsup:


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## ancientsgamer

*Nimh vs. Nicad*

I guess I am a little confused ;-) Do Nicads offer more power than Nimh cells? I would think that the higher Mah ratings of Nimh cells would provide more power and longer run times? Anyway, I am curious to hear from others before I make the plunge to making my own packs. I am looking at running 6 cells but want to maximize speed while still getting the longest run times possible as a secondary concern.

Terry, thanks for the tip on the tires. I guess some folks are using the 3M to avoid using CA glue. I guess it's a little early to tell which is better. I know the 3M glue is easy to remove. Anyone have any experience with durability of rubber tires? I mean, how long should they last when compared to foam? I moved from 10th scale because of lack of time (can run the 1/18th in more areas since space requirements are less) but I never did get to race my car. So some of my questions are from shear ignorance!

Thanks,

Chris


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## marioparnelli

Here is my understanding about Nicads and Nimh cells. Nicads generaly have more power because they have lower resistance. The physical size of the cells are set so they fit in battery holders not just for R/C, but for everthing from radios to toys. If you look at a cell in cross section it would resemble a roll of toilet paper. The plates of the cell are in a roll separated by insulation. The way the manufacturers increase capacity of the cells is by either making the plates thinner or by making the insulation thinner. This gives them more room to add more surface area for the plates. More surface area equals more capacity. The internal resistance of the thinner plates is greater than the thicker plate cells. Nicads have increased in capacity over the years from 1200mah to 2400mah by this method. Nicad have seemed to hit a capacity limit there. Nimh cell technology seems to be a way they can increase cell capacity without running into problems with thinner insulation. I hope this helps.


----------



## MaddMatt

*battery run time*

Ok, so now that everyone is in on this...

If I want long run times but could care less about top speed, I should go with a 4-cell NIMH, right?

I think I am finally beginning to understand this... a little 

Madd Matt


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## marioparnelli

:wave: Generaly, more capacity (longer run time) equals less power. It's all a compromise.


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## ancientsgamer

*Optimum - Discharge Rate*

Mario, thanks!

I would guess then that the discharge rate of these cells is what is really important then. Resistance will slow discharge rate (I am assuming).

Anyone have any discharge rate numbers? I mean, what is the optimum dischage rate for speed? I know that the Sanyo cells are very popular and I am assuming that they have a fast discharge rate. For longer run times, I will just use the higher capacity Nimh cells. For home bashing, you oviously want longer run times but for racing faster discharge rates are warranted (as long as you can last the entire race!)

Thanks again for the help! If anyone has any tech specs or a site I could go to that would give discharge rates, I would appreciate the link!

Thanks,

Chris


----------



## ancientsgamer

*Tech Site*

I found this site: http://www.powerstream.com/tech.html

Although it isn't RC specific, it does give a lot of tech info. Still would love to hear what discharge rate optimum is for speed from someone in the know.


Thanks,

Chris


----------



## okracer

*brp race series*

hey Bud i have an idea how bout have a series of races at different hobby shops across the country and then have a national championship race in clevland each year to crown the 1 1/18th scale national champion. kina like tamyia does each year I think that would be a very cool idea and maybe get some hobbyshops to start raceing your cars. maybe get in with a chain like maybe hobbytown or something i dont know just a thought


----------



## marioparnelli

*Ancientsgamer*

I don't think there is anyone matching AA cells, maybe Orion is. If there is you would want to look at the internal resistance numbers. The lower the IR number the more punch a cell will have. Most of the people I know use Sanyo Nicads to race with. Lower capacity generalymeans more punch and voltage.


----------



## Tc3manus

Hi all 
I have a question about the new XP magnets. Are they for the green endbell motors that come with the BRP sc18 or for another motor? 
Also does anyone know where to buy replacement armatures for these motors. We smoked the one in my wifes car. 
Thanks Bill :roll:


----------



## BudBartos

I hope to have the new wheel hubs online this weekend! They are a complete set F/R with a diff hub front bushingsretail $29.95 you can use ball bearings in the front wheels 5/16th OD 1/8th ID flanged. The SC18 hooks up well with the stock HPI rubber tires don't know about life of tires since out weather is not great for outdoor running yet.
Use foams on carpet and I believe GMP is selling outer wheels with foam mounted.
We will also have the rear pod conversion for the SC18 that will allow you to use the Orin big block or a speed 300 motor! This motor is way fast!
Later :wave:


----------



## k1m

*Batteries&Magnets*

We did some comparisons between 800mah NiCADs and 1200mah Nimhs and found that the average voltage to be higher around the 5 minute mark with the NiMH. They really seem to work well on the track where it counts, too. KSG tried matching some AA's also, but I think it was turning his hair gray so he gave up and just decided to have FUN!

The XP magnets will work in any 16d motor. You can get 16d motor goodies from Mad Mike at FasTrak Hobbys:
www.cyberslot.com

I use 3.5 - 4 Amp discharge rate, it seems pretty close to what the motor draws on the track. 

I started using Shoe Goo to glue my tires on, so far none has come loose and it makes reusing the wheels a snap.

Check out my pit tips page, it beats scanning all those messages (there are some building tips also):
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html

:devil:


----------



## Nil

*Re: battery run time*



MaddMatt said:


> *If I want long run times but could care less about top speed, I should go with a 4-cell NIMH, right?*


. . . maybe. Electric motors draw less current (fewer amps) when spinning faster, so if you have long straights, you could actually get better run time from more cells, because the extra voltage would get the rpms up. Short courses with lots of acceleration or start/stop action, you would be right.

Like everything in life, it's a compromise.

Nil


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## Guest

*NiMH Packs*

Yes, I used 1800 cells to make both 5 and 6 cell packs for my old BRP Oval Outlaw (I just ordered an SC Fun Won!) and it's too wet and cold to run them much here and I've only bombed around a bit on the street in front of my house with them one day last week when it was sunny and warm, they seem to work great. I actually sell them, so I had a good supply to mess around with  

I am looking at using commercially constructed packs, and I just got in a couple of samples -- you can see them here: http://www.gadgetnerd.com/packs.php -- which are on my charger/discharger right now actually. I'll let you know how they work out, but it does look for the moment like they're handing the high charge/discharge rate better than the regular cells which I soldered together.

But I don't have anywhere to race here and I don't own a Micro, so does anyone want to test these where they can try them in both a Micro and BRP? I'll send them out for free (6 cell packs: a 1600 mAh AA-based pack, and a smaller and lighter 1100 mAh 2/3A pack). Email me at [email protected] if you're interested in testing them and letting me know how they work out. You need to have access to both a BRP and a Micro, and you need an NiMH compatible charger!

Thanks!

Paul


----------



## bobhelm

Hi guys, I thought I'd let you know my experience with NIMH AAs in BRPs. I've been using 1500 and 1600 NIMH packs for the last two years.We run two classes, Stock-4 cell, and modified-6 cell. Carpeted oval, five minute races, racing line about 50 feet.I use the same pack for all three races, (two heats and a main),recharging between races. I've had no problemms at all with batterys, plenty of power, plenty of speed, I currently have the lap record in stock and share it with another racer in mod. The NIMHs seem to increase in power over the course of the day-faster in the main than the heats. Other advantages-one pack per car is cheaper than three, you can semi-permanently install the pack, I have the pack Shoo-Gooed into my mod, and you can hadwire the connections without having to solder and unsolder all the time. I hope this info is useful.


----------



## Guest

Thanks bobhelm. Yes, I've been messing around with the NiMH packs this weekend,charging and discharging them and watching voltage and capacity as they discharge at different rates, and you're right, with subsequent charges in a short period of time, they do seem to consistently provide greater voltage and capacity. After charging and then sitting the night, the pack offered significantly lower voltage at the various discharge stages than the same pack immediately after discharging/charging.

Paul


----------



## k1m

Bobhelm: What charge rate do you use to charge/recharge your packs? We also noticed an increase in their voltage after a recharge. I usually run one pack for the 1st qualifier and then recharge it for the main.


----------



## Nil

Another fine turn out in Bratenahl today to end the season. Twenty BRPs. Billy D proved his skill by taking the B-main with a rental. Radio glitches kept him out of the A. Can't tell much more; from back where I place, everyone else is just a cloud of foam dust.

Nil


----------



## bobhelm

k1m: I charge the packs at 1.5 amps. For discharge I made a three bulb discharger-1157 bulbs. I do'nt discharge between rounds, just recharge. Also NIMHs should be stored with some charge left in them, I've been told to leave them about half charged. Discharge before you are going to use them the first time each day, let them cool, then recharge.


----------



## 2slow00

*brp season*

I would like to thank Bud Bartos for putting on an excelelent series. And for the neat trophys and door prizes. Also thanks to Parma International and Associated for thier door prizes and support. 48 racers ran thier own or rented cars this year. I hope next season is as much fun. :thumbsup:  :hat:


----------



## tomdav

*bud series*

What type of brp do you race in the series? The SC18 or the FUN Won.
We just got a small carpet track in our area, Camas WA, and are going to start racing 1/18 scale. I currently have a micro rs4 but like the looks of buds racers. No one in this area has one. 

Tom


----------



## 2slow00

We run the SC18's stock.It is the fastest growing class in our area.The whole car with the pro diff, battery pack and motor is around $100 from BRP.:roll:


----------



## BudBartos

Well the 2001/2002 BRP 1/18th indoor series at NORCAR is over. I have to say that we had a great time 48 different racers guys and girls ran in this series. You can see the report and pictures of the GIANT trophy the winner Pat Barber won
at :thumbsup: www.brpracing.com/18racing03.html


----------



## BudBartos

We have the wheel hubs and Big Block rear pod on line check it out here www.BRPracing.com/brp_newstuff.html


----------



## Nil

*Re: bud series*



tomdav said:


> *What type of brp do you race in the series? The SC18 or the FUN Won.
> *


Fun Wons were allowed, but virtually no one was running them. The straight SC 18s predominated, although I thing I saw at least one SC 18/Fun Won at least once.

Nil


----------



## k1m

*RacersEdge results*

Yesterdays race was between nine BuRPs at Racers Edge. Don's Fun Won Vette was the victor with Ovalman's Fun Won Supertruck a close lap behind for 2nd. They were the only two in the 30 lap club, I slid over the strip in 3rd with Joy right behind me in 4th (Two more Fun Wons) Then came KSG who was a ROCKET! Another Fun Won Vette, and then Cory and Barb in 6th & 7th. Our only SC18 was piloted by Ron (it was his first time)and Chris dropped out early for 9th - not sure why.

It's kinda funny, Fun Wons dominate here in Pa. and have for a couple of years now. The wider tires seem to be quite an advantage on this track. Even the lone Micro RS4 seems intimidated, as Justin raced this week but he didn't bring his Micro - hope we didn't scare him off. Maybe he's just waiting for more parts!:lol: 

Next week is the last week in our winter racing schedule, so I'm sure the racing will be fierce and furious as usual, and fun of course. We don't race for points or trophys and it only costs $2.00 to enter the BuRP class, but everyone has a great time!:thumbsup:


----------



## MaddMatt

*1/18th scale racing*

I just found an 1/18th scale track locally except it's all inhabited by Mirco RS4's.

I haven't approached them about running my BuRP yet as I am waiting for batteries to get the thing running. Does anyone have any ideas on how to approach this?

How do I convince the other drivers to let me race a stock BRP and how many times should I keep it close before I blow their doors off? 

Madd Matt


----------



## MaddMatt

*batteries*

Ok guys a little more battery talk...

I was just checking into a local battery store that sells any battery imaginable. They had a lead acid battery rated at 1.2Ah (not MAh) and 6v. it was the exact same size as a 6 cell AA pack although a little thicker.

WHat would happen if I put this into my car?

I know a 4 cell pack is 4.8v and a 6 cell is 7.2v so a 6v should work right?

Even if I don't get the punch of speed, I should be able to run all day right?

Somebody tell me why this won't work

Madd Matt


----------



## k1m

*Madd Matt*

First of all, if those Micros are racing on a slippery surface like smooth cement, you may have your hands full racing against 4wds. I've run mine on surfaces that makes all the power in the world usless without more traction. What are they racing on and where do they race, near Buffalo? Have you ever been to PRO Speedway (Pritchards)? If you're gonna race, you will want to think about the optional ball differential for sure. 
That lead acid battery is sealed, right? Hope so, I wouldn't try to fast charge it either. If it will fit under the rear pod top plate, it will probably work but don't bind up the T-plate. I think you're right it'll be like running a 5 cell AA for a long,long time. Check your motor every 3 or 4 minutes to be sure it doesn't get too hot.
If you do try this type of battery, follow the dealers charge and discharge rate to be safe.


----------



## Guest

Hey Matt,

1.2 amps = 1200 milliamps. So 1.2 Ah x 1000 = 1200 mAh pack, so not great compared to 1600 regular NiMH pack (like on my web page) made of regular commercial (no tab at top) cells, or pack made from 1800 mAh "high-top" consumer NiMH cells (also a photo on my site: http://www.gadgetnerd.com/packs.php). Unless I'm missing something? I think sealed lead acid batteries are more useful as "workhorses" where you need tough, reliable batteries that withstand abuse, at low cost and with low/no maintenance. Lead acid batteries are much cheaper than NiMH or NiCd, but quite a bit heavier, and they have a longer shelf life than NiCd (if your car used NiCd and you parked it for a month or two you'd be stuck) but can be recharged fewer times. Lead acid batteries also lose more of their voltage during discharge (NiMH are very flat throughout a good 80% of their capacity). I think lead acid batteries have a very low internal resistance, so "punch" shouldn't be an issue with them (starting an 8 cylinder engine takes lots of punch!).

Paul


----------



## Guest

I have a question what motor is more powerful and reliable?
The HPI modified micro speeed 280 or the Orion Elite Modified Micro Motor will they fit in the stock motor mount on the SC 18?Or is the 16D slotcar motor still the best?
Thanks,
Terry


----------



## MaddMatt

*K1M*

The surface is more of a carpet. The track is not huge with the largest straight-away maybe 18 feet long and lots of turns.

This track is actually in Niagara Falls about a 15 minute drive for me. I have no idea where the track is that you're talking about but I am hoping to head down to Bud's once or twice this summer to giveit a go.


As for the battery thing, My understanding was that 1.2Ah was 10,000 MaH, not 1,000 MaH. The weight wasn't really an issue as it was only slightly heavier than a 6 cell AA pack. I was hoping someone else out there tried it first (I hate being the test rabbit)

Madd Matt


----------



## 2slow00

*sc18*

SlotSurfer Brp sells optional motor plate for the other motors. 

we have decided to stay with the 16d motors in our area.:thumbsup:


----------



## Impactplayr

Do you remember metrics from middle school...here's a lesson...LOL

1 centimeter(cm)= 1/100th of a meter so 1 meter is 100 CM
1 millimeter(mm)= 1/10th of a cm so 1 cm is 10mm

10x100=1000

so 1.2 AH = 1200 mah...LOL

Wog- the starter motor on your car is geared very high go the "punch" is basically due to the motor not being asked to turn over alot of force. Imagine the starter set-up being the drive in a pancar. If you use a smaller pinion with a larger spur the car accelerates quickly because the motor doesn't have to put forth as much torque. Conversly if you use a big pinion with a small spur the car accelerates slowly because it doesn't have the "bigger lever" advantage and has to exerpt a whole lot more torque, thus killing te batteries alot quicker.


----------



## BudBartos

K1M... Waiting for parts, your right! We had one micro at the race sunday he got 1/2 lap in and it was broken :lol: 
The SC Fun Wons would be faster than the SC18 but I'm trying to keep the cars we run looking more scale.
Maybe you all can come to BRP and run at DA track this summer!


----------



## Nil

BudBartos said:


> *Maybe you all can come to BRP and run at DA track this summer! *


Yeah, in case you don't know, Elyria (BRP World Headquarters, according to the flyer) is quite a bit east of Cleveland, so should be a bit better for PA & NY folks.

Bud has a schedule for his series on his web site now; check it out.

Nil


----------



## 2slow00

Bud I hope they get the Quaker Steak & Lube Built before we race. Wings and BRP racing on May 4th. What could be better?:hat: :thumbsup: :roll:


----------



## MaddMatt

*Everyone*

Does anyone have races on weeknights? I would love to race at Da Track but I work weekends. Conversely, I would drive for 3-4 hours to see a great race during the week!

If there aren't any yet, why not?!:devil: 

Madd Matt


----------



## BudBartos

Nil.. It's west by about 30 miles


----------



## k1m

Madd Matt: PRO Speedway is located in Cattaraugus, Ny. maybe 25-30 miles from you. BIG tri-oval with the smoothest ozite and lighting bright as day! Marc Pritchard is the owner, email me for more info. They're only racing 1/12 scale pancars and 4wd touring cars on Sat nite right now. I'm thinking about trying to get some of us together and go up and show them some 1/18 scale action soon. I'll bet "Da Wedge" will literally fly on that big track! Their whole infield is carpeted too, so they can set up any configuration road course they want. It's 70 miles one way for me, but I like to get up there at least once a year. Our season is over here after Sunday, so I feel a road trip commin' on!

Bud: I haven't checked your schedule out yet, but a trip to the BRP World Headquarters is in the planning stages already also. Thanx for the link.

2slowoo: Wings and BRP racing sounds good to me! I think someone told me hot sauce is good traction compound...????


----------



## gordonmoney

*alternate motors*



Slot Surfer said:


> *I have a question what motor is more powerful and reliable?
> The HPI modified micro speeed 280 or the Orion Elite Modified Micro Motor will they fit in the stock motor mount on the SC 18?Or is the 16D slotcar motor still the best?
> Thanks,
> Terry *


 The HPI and Orion motors will not fit in the stock BRP motor mount without modification.It is possible to do by cutting new screw slots in the right side plate and mounting the motor on that side(these motors run in reverse from the 16d motor). They do work quite well and the Orion Elite in particular, has an incredible amount of power. Bud also sells a conversion kit to put the Orion Big Block motor in the car. This motor also has a ton of power and speed and is a simple bolt in operation. However, it is bigger, heavier, and sucks the juice out of your battery in a serious way. The 16d, particularly with Bud's new magnets and low gearing,is mighty frisky too. They are all fun.
Gordon


----------



## 2slow00

K1m I hope some of you can make it to BRP world headquarters for a race this summer. Have you been to Quaker Steak & Lube? We used to drive to Sharon Pa. to get thier wings. Now they are building them all over Ohio.


----------



## MaddMatt

*Wings*

Ok, if you guys are meeting for wings before a race, then I'll have to make it!

The only Quaker Steak I've been to is in Erie Pa.

Madd Matt


----------



## Nil

BudBartos said:


> *Nil.. It's west by about 30 miles *


*OOOOOOPS*


----------



## Guest

I just found out Platos Place is making decals in 1/18th scale at twice the cost of 1/24th scale .They have Corvette CR and lot of others. Also he has a 1/18th scale bodies of the V8 Super cars.Platos Place 
Later,
Terry


----------



## Guest

Hey gang, I'm new here. I've had an SC18 for a little bit now, and love it. Bud, your service is second to none.
Now that I have my car I want to race. I live 50 miles due East of Pittsburgh. Any tracks close? OvalmanPA, where is Smethport?:hat:


----------



## k1m

*Welcome Nate!*

I was checking out a trip planner from here to Elyria, OH. so I punched in Blairsville also:
The trip from Blairsville, PA to Smethport, PA is 136.30 miles long, using the Quickest route. The trip time is 3 hours, 08 minutes.
Chech out this link for more info:
http://www.racersedgerc.com/

Oh, and it's 247 miles (4:30) from here to "BRP World Headquarters"




:thumbsup:


----------



## 2slow00

k1m you guy's just have to move closer to the racing hub of the 18th scale world. Which is of course BRP World Headquarters.


----------



## OvalmanPA

NateCMiller said:


> *Hey gang, I'm new here. I've had an SC18 for a little bit now, and love it. Bud, your service is second to none.
> Now that I have my car I want to race. I live 50 miles due East of Pittsburgh. Any tracks close? OvalmanPA, where is Smethport?:hat: *


Hi Nate!

Like K1M said it'd be a trip for you to come to Smethport but we'd be more than happy to have you. We are located about 1/2 hour from the NY state line.  Our last race of the season is tomorrow though.  You may want to check out the track locator Hank has at Team RCV. I'm not sure exactly where they are but I've heard there are a couple real good tracks down in the lower part of the state. Latrobe is one that comes to mind and I believe there is one in the vicinity of Utica/Franklin area also which would be much closer to you. Welcome to world of racing BuRPs!


----------



## BudBartos

K1m>>> Bring the family we have one of the worlds best amusment parks 30 min away Cedar Point if you have heard of it. Maybe we will have another world championships at the BRP word headquarters which by the way is in the USA :thumbsup: Not Japan


----------



## Guest

I was looking on Map Quest to see where BRP HQ is.What airport would be a the closest Detroit,MI or Colombus,Ohio to fly in to.I am thinking of maybe coming out this summer I have some friends on the Internet that race slotcar in Colombus, Ohio.
Thanks,
Terry


----------



## Guest

Hey gang, I got word today a new facility is opening in Latrobe PA. It is slated to feature an indoor carpet roadcourse, oval, AND an off-road dirt track. Groovy! I'll pass on more details as they materialize.:wave:


----------



## Nil

Slot Surfer said:


> *What airport would be a the closest Detroit,MI or Colombus,Ohio to fly in to. *


To answer that question, Hopins International (Cleveland) is the closest. Only about 25 miles.

But if you're going to visit friends in Columbus, that's about 140 miles. Detroit is a bit farther.

Where do you race slot in Columbus? Tom Thumb? Got down there last summer. By the by, that's not far from a Columbus RC group ( http://www.corcar.com/ )

Nil


----------



## Guest

I have friends that live in Colombus.They have invited me to come out and run some T jets with them.
Thanks,
Terry


----------



## BudBartos

slot surfer>> We are going to run the BRP cars this summer with the Micros at CORCAR.It is not to far from tom thumb check with us and see what day we will be there. They race every sunday but I may only go once a month. We are going to have 4 races at DA TRACK this summer also.


----------



## 2slow00

Bud how was Tolsdo?


----------



## BudBartos

2slow>>> J Lap strikes again!!! There was a good turnout but lots of delays because of the awsome J lap system. Had about 18 1/18th cars several were running Big Blocks and the Mi guys have deceided to stick with the 16D motors for next season. The cars are just too fast with the other motors and it makes it like 1/12th no fun. We didn't even run the mains 3 qualifier was done about 6:45. figure out if there is a day we can go back to Classic maybe after the nats.
J LAP:lol:


----------



## 2slow00

The Nat's are April 12th - 14th. We could go on the 20th or 27th. Anyone have a preferance? Don't forget May 4th race at world headquarters. Bud keep us informed about QS&L opening. I think I may have wasted my money on the personal transponder. I see that the Midwest Series is going to run J-Lap at all events. I'm thinking of running just BRP SC18's this summer. Let me know when you go to Columbus.


----------



## BudBartos

2sloww>> April 20 would be a good day so far. You can run your personal transponded at the BRP races it just wont count laps!!!! Sure will let you know about columbus. I may try to get to D&D this sat it is there last race and I wanted to run on the dirt oval


----------



## MaddMatt

*Bud and 2 Slow*

Hey guys, fill in the rest of us....

What the heck is J Lap?

I know of the AMB system but is J lap something new different?

Also, has anyone tried the KO Propo lap counter? Supposedly it is completely compatible with the AMB but almost half the price

Madd Matt


----------



## k1m

*BuRP Carpet Season 2001-2002*

The final race of Racers Edge's 2001-2002 carpet season was won by Chris Burrows with a nice 32 lap run. Joy and I traded BuRPs for the main just for the fun of it and we nearly pulled it off. One time I rubbed on Ovalman alittle and she got blamed for it! She even apologized for me! But Chris, who can look one way and drive the other caught on to it and ratted us out! I made it to the lead several times with Joy's "Da Bug" but I kept trying to take short cuts across the corner dots (plow disks) and rolling over. "Da Wedge's" low C.G. is alot more forgiving in the turns. Anyway, Joy got 2nd with 31 laps, Rick and Don had a dog fight going with 30 laps each, then came me, Johna, Barb, and Cory.

Get This - I talked to Justin, our only Micro owner, he's having his Micro fit with some hubs so he can run 1/12 scale front tires! Kind of a Micro Fun Won?? Maybe he'll get a chance to try it out when we visit his home track, PRO Speedway in the next couple of weeks. 

I think we had a very sucessful season with a total of 12 different racers this year. We had alot of fun, and we really put these little cars to the test on the track and they performed great! VERY little breakage occured - the bodys took the worst beating, and we do tend to be alittle rough!


----------



## marioparnelli

Bud & 2slow00, The 20th sounds good to me too. Who else can make Classic's on that date?

MaddMatt, The J Lap is a race scoring program that can use personal transponders. Some clubs are finding the program more than a little buggy.


----------



## Nil

marioparnelli said:


> *MaddMatt, The J Lap is a race scoring program that can use personal transponders. Some clubs are finding the program more than a little buggy. *


It uses the AMB transponder counting hardware.

Nil


----------



## 2slow00

nil how does the 20th sound to you? If you run into any of the guy's ask them if they can make it.:roll:


----------



## Guest

Are you guys going to run the BUD's car on the 20th?


----------



## Nil

2slow00 said:


> *nil how does the 20th sound to you? *


I took the little guy down to Classic for Tuesday night practice last week, and he wouldn't forgive me if I didn't bring him. It's late, but I think he can handle it. 

Dan:

I sure hope so. At least, that's what I'm replying to. We had a whale of a time there last time.

Nil


----------



## Nil

*World Headquarters*

Bud:

We were at Firelands Scout Camp last weekend, and slid by Lowell Street on our way home. Thus, a question:

Will we be able to set up pavilions in the grass north of the World Championship track?

Thanks
Nil


----------



## k1m

*Bud*

So when would be the best time to plan the pilgrimage to BRP World Headquarters, May 4? And I assume if we'll be racing on "Da Track", we'll be running oval? Joy and I may not be the only ones to make the trip from Pa either. Acouple of others seem interested in comming too and I'm working on the rest of them! 
:thumbsup:


----------



## 2slow00

Dan the 20th look good to all who have replied. They will be done with the Nats and it shouldn't be as crowded


----------



## BudBartos

ATTENTION all BRP racers and other 1/18th I talked to Walt at Classic and the 20th of April is a GO for BRP oval racing FUN  

K1m.>>> May 4th would be cool we are running the oval track. the Big amusment park is not open at that time yet if you had that in mind!

Nil>> Yes you can set up a tent if you like.


----------



## marioparnelli

:roll: Hey Bud, see if you can get Chuck to come race at Classic's. Bring the rentals!


----------



## ancientsgamer

*ESC's and other questions*

K1M,

I guess this is directed to you but others can surely reply too. What low cost ESC's are good for the BRP's. Tower Hobbies has the Duratrax Spike for 27.99 and the blast for 39.99(these aren't high frequency). I have seen the GM racing ESC's versions 3 and 4 for about 54.99 on Stormerhobbies.com (these are high frequency). The GM's will go to lower turn motors, although I know this isn't necessary for the BRP's but it may make sense in the long run regarding exchanging to another car.

I really haven't found much info regarding high vs. low frequency ESC's. I assume it has to do with braking and battery management efficiency. Could anyone elaborate?

I have won a few of the Oval Outlaws on Ebay. I am messing with these until I can make decisions on parts for my new SC18's. I also will be messing with some extra bodies to try my hand at painting. Oh, I decided on Hitec Lynx as my radio system. Good bang for the buck!

Thanks for earlier advice!

Chris


----------



## OvalmanPA

*ESC*

May I suggest a Futaba 230CR? There are quite a few people at our track running these and they are a GREAT little ESC. You want smooth? These things seem to be able to go as slow as you want them to. They are also *tiny*! The only drawback is you'll only be able to run stock motors if I remember correctly when running a 1/10 scale vehicle.

Oh yes, on the high/low frequency thing. A higher frequency ESC will give you better throttle control. They have more "steps" between low and high throttle to make the power delivery smoother. Equalize a low frequeny ESC to a mechanical speed control..............not as much control.


----------



## Nil

*ESC*

I really can't recommend the Spike after using it for a half dozen races or so. The problem is setting the high speed screw. It has to be set so that maximum output coincides with full throttle on the transmitter. The last race, I turned my transmitter throttle end point down to 80%. My car didn't go any slower, but all of a sudden I had part throttle control.

Ovalman is right about the F 230CR. I haven't used this in a BRP, but in other cars, it has a good price/performance ratio. The easy set up, and reverse for practice and playing around, make it easily worth the $20-25 over a Spike.

Nil


----------



## MaddMatt

*ESC*

I know I am a relative newcomer to the BRP world but after getting my batteries the other day and messing around for a couple of hours, I can highly recomend the Duratrax ESC-100. They are only making them for a limited time (Supposedly) and right now at tower they throw in some free cones. For $32, it's inexpensive with alot of control over the speed settings.


----------



## k1m

*Ancientsgamer*

I really like my Futaba MC230 for it's smoothness and price (under $50)AND it's tiny size. It seems to work very well in 1/18 scale and it can be used in 1/10 scale with motors with at least 20 turns. Duratrax's ESC-100(made by Futaba)is very similar and at $33 it's a great deal, just alittle larger than the MC230. The Blast is alittle bigger yet and sells for around $40 but they'll all work fine in your BRP.
I do recommend a reversing ESC though, you can't beat reverse when you're playing and you have to be your own corner marshall.
Higher frequency is supposed to run cooler,last longer and be faster, but I doubt you'll really notice much difference in the models mentioned here when you squeeze the trigger.
Send us some pix of your paint jobs.


----------



## ancientsgamer

*Thanks! Now for more questions.... ;-)*

Looks like the Duratrax/Futaba Esc is what I am looking for... I don't suppose you can lock out reverse, can you?

Well, I ran my Oval Outlaws today and was having steering issues. I suspect that the linkages aren't "tight" enough on the steering. Looks like the last owner also didn't trim the bodies well near the wheel wells, so, the foams have a groove in them! Would this cause steering issues too? I have adjusted the steering trim but am still having trouble in the turns.

The other thing I noticed is that the stock blue compound doesn't seem to grip well. One of the cars spun out easily with small turn adjustments. Also, they seem to have trouble tracking on right turns. Is it possible that they have been both optimized for left turn Stock type racing? Any suggestions on tires for semi-smooth asphalt? The track is in a parking lot, although permanent, and has been sprayed with that black parking lot treatment I have seen in other parking lots. I just got in some orange foams, green foams and the HPI hub adapters and am anxious to try differend setups. But anyone with parking lot experience could save me some time with suggestions...

I will probably put together my Sc18's soon and am using the older cars to test things out and learn how to drive better. I have the extra power magnets and the big block adapter. I plan on trying these out after I solve the tire issue.

Thanks for the advice guys!

Chris


----------



## Nil

I don't know about the Duratrax/Futaba ESC, but the MC230 has reverse lock out.

A lot of racers around here replace the wire linkage with ball joints & turn buckles. I'm about to try that myself because of the slop. Most of it is in the wire/servo saver joint, though, not the wire/steering block joints. A new servo saver may save the effort. 

Nil


----------



## k1m

You can lock out reverse on the MC230 but I don't think you can on the ESC-100. Not really an issue anyway.
Alittle slop in the linkages is no big deal, but the tires cannot rub on the body ESPECIALLY when you turn. Adjust the steering trim so it goes in a straight line when you're not turning the wheel.
The thing to check when running the older style (black) chassis is tweak. That will make it spin out more when you turn in one direction than the other. 
Check out my Pit Tip page for more info on tweak:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html
Are you running the rear differential? That makes quite a difference. The SC18 chassis also makes a BIG difference in cornering and it's more bullet proof.
Sealed asphalt can be very slippery - try some rubber tires if the SC18 is still loose.


----------



## ancientsgamer

*Tweaking*

K1m,

Yes, you described it exactly. It has to be tweak then! ;-) Would tweak also cause turns in the opposite direction of the spin out to not be sharp enough?

So, slop isn't that big of a deal then? Is there no real benefit in tightening the linkage? If not, I will leave the SOO's alone. I don't want to try rubber on these either as I will save the hubs and tires for my SC18's. Sounds like I need to put my SC18's together then!

K1m, thanks for the advice as always! ;-) Nil, thanks for the advice as well. I don't have a servo saver on there yet. Should I? Will this help keep the linkages closer to correct?

Thanks again guys!

Chris


----------



## BudBartos

ancientsgamer>> Don't worry about the slop in the front end steering it will make the car run smoother. You should get that servo saver however.
There is really no comparision from the old cars to the SC18 chassis the new ones are way better


----------



## MaddMatt

*Engine Break-in*

Hey guys, I know there was a discussion on this before but I am still not clear. If I don't want to dip the engine, what do I do?

Bud's instructions were a little confusing to me. I ended up running the engine on low then med then high for around 15 mins and then let it run on high for a little while longer. Am I doing any harm?

From what everyone has said, the engines tend to get a little faster as they get older so I am hoping that if I didn't do it right that the car will right itself over time.

I am ordering a few more cars though, so next time what should I do?

Madd Matt


----------



## k1m

*Motor break-in*

When an electric motor is new the ends of the brushes that rub on the commutator are pretty much square with only a small portion of the brush actually touching the comm. After the motor is run awhile, the ends of the brushes become curved to match the comm's surface. The larger surface will allow better contact between the brush and comm, and the motor will be stronger.
If you want to speed up this process, you can dip the motor in a glass of water with it hooked up to a 3 or 4 cell battery pack for a couple of seconds. It only takes a quick dip, and you can tell if it's done by checking the ends of the brushes to see if they curve all the way across the face.
Or...........just run it!


----------



## OvalmanPA

*motor break in*

The best method is to water dip but you can just run it also. The only problem with just running the motor is that it takes dang near forever it seems to break in the brushes. I don't think you really did anything wrong but I bet if you take out the brushes you'll notice that they aren't hardly "conformed" to the commutator.


----------



## Guest

Do you guy's have any preferance as far as bodies? I ordered an sc18 w/ the truck body ( I still question why I did that ). When I order my ball diff i will get another body, but don't know which one. I really like the porsche and ferarri. I will be the only one running a BRP car in a feild of micro's:devil:.


----------



## Impactplayr

The truck body is the toughest of all the BRP bodies I have ever ran/ tested, the thing just feels like it will never crack. It also doen't handle too badly and is easy to add a spoiler to for extra rear traction. I personally think it may be the best body Bud offers.


----------



## 2slow00

*bodies*

Bolink Boy most of us run the vette body,but the truck body works very well too. I think its just a matter of personal tastes.


----------



## BudBartos

Bolink Boy>>> The sal S-7 is hot it looks like a micro body so when you whoop on them they will think it's a $900.00 micro


----------



## Nil

BoLink Boy said:


> *Do you guy's have any preferance as far as bodies?*


A small piece of advice: The GTP body doesn't give you much room to fit everything in. One of the guys at the track says that he thought it had too much downforce, too.

Nil


----------



## marioparnelli

*Race Night at Classic's*

Hey Bud, who is coming to Classic's the 20th? Hopefully we will have enough for a "A" and a "B" main.


----------



## marioparnelli

Hey Guys, I just found out that Classic's has a web site.:thumbsup: Here it is: www.classichobbiesraceway.com Check it out.


----------



## BudBartos

mariop>>> I know of 4 myself, Don D, Don S and Tony the great. Should be a pretty good turnout at the BRP race on the 4th of May.


----------



## k1m

*Bolink Boy*

As you can see, we pretty much "run what we brung" here in Pa. But I'm pretty fond of the wedge body #201 even on my Fun Won. It leaves just enough room for normal sized electronics and a transponder under the body, and a low center of gravity. That wedge nose comes in mighty handy too, when you're "drafting" a car ahead of you!  
[image]http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/belch.jpg[/image]

can't seem to post pic, go here:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/belch.jpg


----------



## Nil

*Re: Race Night at Classic's*



marioparnelli said:


> *Hopefully we will have enough for a "A" and a "B" main. *


My son and I will volunteer for the B main.

Classic even posted the BRP results from the last time.

Nil


----------



## marioparnelli

Bud,:wave: , I plan to be at your place May 4th. What pit stuff should we bring, tables and chairs, tents, extension cords, etc?


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Classic's racing*

Bud,

At Classic on the 20th will we be able to use rubber wheels?

Thanks
:roll:


----------



## BudBartos

Micro-Racer >>> Yes you can use rubber tires. They seemed to work pretty well there.


----------



## BudBartos

MarioP>>> Bring all your usual outdoor stuff. I will have electric but bring a long extension.
Looks like we will have alot of people there maybe even Chuck :wave:


----------



## MaddMatt

*batteries*

I just got a catalog from Batteries America and they have custom packs available that have 8,10 or 12 cell AA packs in any configuration. If I did a double high pack, could I use 8 or 10 cells?

has anyone tried this?

what was the result?

Madd Matt


----------



## BudBartos

MaddMatt >>> TOO much weight


----------



## Guest

Bud, I just placed my order for the stock car body and the diff. I think the local oval guys will get a kick out of this thing! -Adam


----------



## Micro_Racer

Check out my BRP page...under the news I have hop-up tips


http://home.attbi.com/~michael.elwood/RC_Home.html

:thumbsup:

this link will work better if you cut and past into browser


----------



## 2slow00

Micro nice page. Did you race at the Brat?


----------



## Micro_Racer

2Slow00

I did race at the brat....but only the last 2 races. Just moved to Cleveland....when are the next NORCAR races and where?

Micro


----------



## 2slow00

*races*

Norcar dosen't have a summer schedule yet. They may not run until fall. Are you racing at Classic on the 20th? We had a great time our last race there.


----------



## Micro_Racer

2slow00

I plan on being at classics on the 20th. Anyone out in RCland have the BigBlock by Orion? The Orion motor is mounted on the opposite side of the stock motor. When I hooked it up to my Duratrax Spike ESC my car went in reverse. I switched the leads from the motor, but then it did not run at all. I can’t put the motor on the other side because the conversion kit is made to fit only on way. Any ideas? Bud do you have a pod conversion kit for the other side?


----------



## 2slow00

We are going to stay with the 16D motor for next years series. Bud makes motor plates for the big block. Talk to Jeff Ferron at Mentor Hobby Town. He ran one at the last Brat race and was extremly fast.Bud ran one at the last Classic race. He is fast with either motor.


----------



## BudBartos

Micro racer >>> the pod is designed to put the motor on the opposite side as the kit motor. Hope I did not bend those plates wrong.The axle holes should be towards bottom of pod plates. Give me a call.
We will be running the 16D at classic.


----------



## Nil

Bud:

Last time we were at Classic, one of the real oval guys was asking when/if we'd be back so he could bring his BRP. Would it be a good idea to send a flyer down there and ask Walt to post it?

Nil


----------



## Guest

How does the parma deathstar rate against the stock BRP motor w/ the upgraded magnets? Which one would be better for a wide open track?


----------



## k1m

*BuRP Motors*

The Deathstar is good, low cost 16d motor. The stock BRP motor (green endbell) is very similar but epoxy balanced. That, and the XP magnets might make it more desirable on a larger track where it gets a chance to rev up.
I think staying with 16d motors for racing is a good idea. If enough people want to throw alittle more money at them for mod motors, that's OK too, but they need their own class.
Speaking of mod motors......I got some info on a brushless motor that might be fun to play with. "AstroBob" at Astroflight tells me they make a tiny brushless motor for airplanes that will fit in our mini racers. It's called 010 and it comes with ESC for around $150. stock #801V. Not sure how it performs when geared to tires instead of a propeller, but it sure sounds neat!


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Orion Motors*

Orion has 3 motors for the micro...has anyone tryed the 20900 Elite Micro Modified Motor it is coreless. Is the Parma motor better than the Elite Micro Stock Motor? It looks like the stock motor will fit into BRP's rear pod. 










Web Link to Orion Motors:
http://www.team-orion.ch/products/micro_tuning.asp


----------



## gordonmoney

*Re: Orion Motors*



Micro_Racer said:


> *Orion has 3 motors for the micro...has anyone tryed the 20900 Elite Micro Modified Motor it is coreless. Is the Parma motor better than the Elite Micro Stock Motor? It looks like the stock motor will fit into BRP's rear pod.
> 
> The elite mod is incredible in the BRP.You need to modify the right side motor plate with new motor slots to fit.It fits in the pod just fine. Dial your brakes way down because this motor has a ton of brakes.Same deal with the stock motor, either HPI or Orion but don't worry about the brakes with them. I think any of the micro motors are better than the Parma, at least on a shorter track, as they are designed to run on 6-7.2 volts and seem to have much better torque at this voltage. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Web Link to Orion Motors:
> http://www.team-orion.ch/products/micro_tuning.asp *


----------



## gordonmoney

Sorry about the bold type. Not sure how that happened.


----------



## k1m

*Bud's Summer Racing Series*

I had trouble finding this schedule for the Summer Racing Series on Bud's website so I'll post the link here in case anyone else did too:

http://www.brpracing.com/images/datrack2002.pdf

It lists the dates, time, rules, and a phone # in case you have any questions.


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Web Site*

Hi All,

I am trying to put together a BRP web site that will have all hop-up info, latest ideas, and most important FAQ's...I know allot of questions are asked and answered by Bud on this site, but we have no way of finding questions and answers without going threw 100's of replies...I will try to copy all questions and their answers on my site in a easy accessible format. If you would like to have something posted please email me.

PS-- I painted a new body. I am getting much better with the spray paint! It looks great with the HPI tires! Check it out at:

http://home.attbi.com/~michael.elwood/Photos.html

:thumbsup:


----------



## Guest

Looks GOOD!:thumbsup:

How do the rubber tires handle compared to the foams?


----------



## Micro_Racer

BoLink,

I really like the rubber tires. They work great on linoleum floors, and are just awesome on pavement. The foam tires just don’t have the “sticking” power that the rubber tires do. A few guys down the street from me have HPI Micro’s; I could never get off the line as fast as they could. Now with the rubber tires I can beet them off the line! Plus I can turn without front end slip. I would suggest “roughing” up the rubber with sandpaper before running on carpet. Most of all the rims look nice on the car!


----------



## Nil

Micro_Racer said:


> *The foam tires just don’t have the “sticking” power that the rubber tires do. *


Which foams were you using? The stock kit tires?

Nil


----------



## Micro_Racer

I used what Bud put in my kit... Has anyone tryed the Team Orion ESC (Flash)?


----------



## gordonmoney

*rubber vs foam*

Micro-racer,
Glad to hear the rubber tires work out, the HPI rims do look great. Foam tires work great with traction compound and hardly work at all without it. Full goop on the rears and inside 1/4-1/2 on fronts. If you are in a position to use it, give it a try.
Gordon


----------



## Guest

At my track we aren't allowed to use traction compound! So with the foam tires, I may be in trouble! But If I goop the tires with ground fx the night before and let them air dry they might work fine. I just might have to order the high traction soft tires from bud.


----------



## k1m

*Micro Tire questions*

Whats the difference between HPI 4718 rear micro tires and HPI 4716 is it just softer compound? Also, are the rear wheels wider than the front? The wheels come 3 different pairs per part tree. So if you want a matched set you have to buy two...., Nice.


----------



## ancientsgamer

*Micro Wheels*

K1m,

I have a set of wheels sitting in front of me. There are 12 of them. So this makes 3 different sets of 4 wheels. One pair of front and rear for each spoke type. 

I can't answer your question about the tires as I am trying to figure this out too! I know that they come in different profile types and this may have to do with the grip you get but I am at a loss to tell which compound is harder or softer with the standard profile tires. I see a compound rating on the different profile tires but not on the "standard" profile ones.

Hope this helps some...

Chris


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Micro Tires*

When you order the Micro rims you get 3 sets. Each set has a rear and a front (Rear are wider than the front). As for what tires to use check out my web site for all details or go to the HPI link below.

http://www.hpiracing.com/usa/index.htm

The PDF and JPG are on my website.


----------



## k1m

*Tires*

Micro_racer: thanx for the link, HPI has an excellent tire selection guide on their site. 

Looks like #4713 & #4718 are the kit tires suitable for parking lots, etc. Their other tires are High Performance (not high profile as is states in Tower's tech notes) and come in narrow (front) and wide (rear) in different compounds with #4716 being a HP rear soft.
They are nice looking wheels, but I would have much rather spent $10 on a matching set of 4 than $18 on 3 sets of 4. Hey, we'll have spares now, anyway.


----------



## Guest

> $18 on 3 sets of 4. Hey, we'll have spares now, anyway


WOW you Got ripped off i paid only $9.99 for wheels at Hobby People in California.:thumbsup: 
Slot Surfer


----------



## Micro_Racer

*$18.00??*

K1M,

Did you by a set of 4 tires? I see them sold by 2's front and rear so you can mix and match--about $8.00 a set of two...


----------



## k1m

*HPI micro stuff*

Here's the HPI stuff I ordered for my new SC18:
HPI chrome wheels # 73412 6 wheels, 3 pair different styles $9.99. I bought two to have a matching set of 4. (see pic)  
HPI Micro tire front #4713 
" " " rear #4718 
" " " rear hp soft #4716
Add to that Bud's wheel adapters #361 and I'll have about $50-$60 in the conversion. It's gonna look sweet with these wheels/tires under that new Mustang body though! Hope it's not all show and no go.
I also ordered a Futaba S3101 micro servo for it...it's TINY! And since Bud has OK'd bearings in the front wheels, I picked up some 1/8 X 5/16 flanged Duratrax bearings. A hot XP motor, and a fresh pack of Kryptonites, and I'll be ready for the summer racing season.
Look out Bud! Some guys from Racer's Edge here in Pennsylvania are headed for Ohio - May 4th. 
:thumbsup:
Hpi Micro Chrome Wheels pic:
http://www.gpmd.com/images/hpic4274.JPG


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Sound Good!*

k1m,

OK, you went with the upgraded HPI chrome – nice choice – but more expensive! How much were the bearings? A few people at the Brat had the Micro servos; they worked well and cut some weight off the car. The only problem one of them had was the servo tape kept un-sticking. Oh, make sure you have a servo saver, the micro servos NEED them. 

What Mustang body? 

I look forward to seeing you guys at Da Track….Sounds like you will have the ride, but can you drive?

Just a little trash talk…….

Did you check out the Orion ESC? It’s the lightest one I have seen


----------



## k1m

*Micro_Racer*

You're right, a servo saver of some kind is a must as far as I'm concerned on any servo. The bearings were 10 for $23 or you can get 2 for $5 from Duratrax.
Bud's newest body #262 SAL S-7. I believe the SAL is a reference to SALEEN - Mustang. Probably a trademark thing.
Don't be suprised if I end up driving "da wedge" anyway! I'm used to it and it's been well tested. 

Can I drive?....Naw...I'm pretty old and slow witted. But, I'm pretty lucky! I'm sure it will be fun! :lol:


----------



## 2slow00

k1m we're all old and slow over here. You should fit right in. :dude:


----------



## BudBartos

Don't forget guys I'm the current 1/18th on road and oval WORLD CHAMP  I'm working on the track this weekend if it does not rain too much. Will post to let YA ALL Know whats working good.
2sloww00 .. CORCAR has a 1/18th track for the races down there. We need to make a road trip and whip some Micros !!!!!!
Don't forget Oval racing on the high banks of Classic speedway on the 20th.


----------



## k1m

*Bud & 2slowoo*

What's your oval track record, Bud? Where is Lowell St. in relation to Griswold St. & Lorain Blvd.? 
Is that Quaker Steak & Lube gonna be open 2SlowOO? If not the Red Lobster will do Fine!! The only thing I like better than racing and wings is racing and crab legs!! we're looking forward to seeing you're part of Ohio. We've been to Sandusky before but usually we shoot right through Ohio on our way elsewhere.


----------



## Nil

*Micro Servo*

k1m:

With micro servos, I'd recommend metal gears *and* a servo saver. I toasted a couple of HiTech nylon gear sets before I switched.

I finally got the servo to stay down; the last time I put it in I was in a hurry. It wound up canted against the front block hold down nut so only about half of it was touching the servo tape. Didn't come off again. Go figger.

Nil


----------



## 2slow00

*bud&k1m*

Bud is the QS&L open? And is Chuck going to Classic? The road trip sounds good let me know when. k1m wings or legs both are favorites with BRP racers everywhere?


----------



## BudBartos

2sloww00 >>> QSL is long way from being done here I don't think they have started on it yet. I don't think Chuck is going to Classic. The PA racers are coming to the first BURP race. We could hit the QSL in Columbus!!!!!
See you all sat :wave:


----------



## Guest

*Classic race*

Planing to go the 20th, getting car ready, what time do the doors open, what time is everybody getting there?:thumbsup:


----------



## Micro_Racer

*FOOD after May 4th BURP Race........*

Bud,

Are you serious about driving all the way down to Columbus for a QS&L after the May 4th race? Why do that when I would much rather go downtown to the Hard Rock or the new CoopersTown. There are tons of great restaurants right in Cleveland. Why drive 2 hours to Columbus?


----------



## BudBartos

Mico-Racer>>> When we go to columbus to race  Also they are building one about 5 miles from the shop and it sounds like you have never been to QSL have you???
See you on the 20th


----------



## 2slow00

*Classic*

Dan I think the doors open at 2 and racing starts at 6. It was crowdwd last time but we squeezed everyone in. It shoudn't be as bad this time.:thumbsup:


----------



## Guest

Hopefully I will get my SC18 tomarrow. Darn that econo shipping!  


Anyway, do any of the micro rs4 bodies fit the BuRP?


----------



## Nil

BoLink Boy said:


> *Anyway, do any of the micro rs4 bodies fit the BuRP? *


I've heard the Viper fits; but haven't seen one on yet, despite having two waiting to be trimmed and painted. If you have a chance, look for the "old production" body. "New production" Vipers have the top half of the wheel well pre-trimmed. Since the wheelbase doesn't quite match, this limits the appearance of the mounted body.

Nil


----------



## k1m

*Saleen SC18*

A rainy weekend, no big plans, and a box of goodies from BRP. Pretty hard to take, huh?

The new Saleen body is very nice, details true to form, and a perfect mate for the Vette. I really like the window masks, that's my least favorite part of a new paint job. I was looking for paint scheme ideas and ended up here:
http://www.saleen.com/home/home_set.htm?x=1
Nice pix for details but looks like they only come in silver and orange. I need something more flashy for my eyes to focus on! 

The SC18 went together pretty smooth, I've put a couple together for other people, but the more detailed instructions were much more helpful. I put to use most of the tips I've gathered here on the Hobby Talk forum. One new tip - if you decide to install the optional ball diff kit with HPI wheels, assemble the complete axle and see if you need to grind alittle off the threaded end to clear the center of the left rear wheel. I grinded 1/16" off mine, but now my diff nut doesn't thread on as far as it should. I plan on a test run tomorrow night.

The HPI chrome wheels are beautiful! For the record, you get 3 full sets of 4 stock #73412 for $10. The micro tires look like little black rubber bands, but they fit the wheels like a glove - no bulges of lumps. And the soft set I got too is literally sticky! I'd say softer than S3! Hope they last all day! :devil:
I'm alittle leary of the wheels just sliding onto the adapters. I realize that's how they are on the Micro, we'll just have to try them and see I guess.


----------



## Guest

Nil-Thank you. I will keep that in mind when I look for one.

I finished the sc18 last night. There is a pic attached. Really fast a great handling. Though I didn't get SC18 stickers, I got "Da Bug" stickers.  Pardon the decal on the back spoiler.


I picked up a Parma "The Rotor" slot motor for $5 from a bargain bin. Has anyone used one? The Adjustable timing sounds like a neat idea.


----------



## OvalmanPA

*Play day!*

Hey K1M, sounds like it's about time for a play day to check out the looks of this new BuRP you built. Have you been up to the Votech to see how much of a mess the parking lot is lately? Been itching to get my Stampede out and run her a little too!


----------



## k1m

*Play Day*

Ovalman: OK! yeah, let's get some of us together and go play. The VoTech's parking lot is getting pretty rough, and it's always sandy this time of year. But with all the rain we've had, it might not be too bad. The best place to run up there is around that 3 cornered traffic island.....but man those cement curbs are brutal! If we could only get rid of all the full scale traffic!
Good place to scuff in those HPI tires too! I'm hopin' my old buddy Ovalman has a small Kimborough servo saver hanging on his peg board so I can give the new SC18 a test drive.
Bolink Boy: nice looking super truck, that body looks good on Fun Wons too. (see pic) I agree with you, some new style BRP decals would be nice.
http://olympia.fortunecity.com/bannister/128/burps.jpg


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Da Track at BRP*

OK…I had a chance to test out Da Track at the BRP world headquarters. If you have the stock HPI rubber tires for the rear…get ride of them all I did was spin out on EVERY corner. Bud let me try his foam tires he was using at the brat on the HPI rims. No spinning but the car pushed a lot in the straits. Now the track was just sealed, so it was slick. I don’t think the track will change that much by May 4th. It may if we get a lot of rain. You may want to stick to foam rears….I will hit Da Track a few more times with different set-ups and let you know what’s working best!


----------



## med511

I'm new to this whole mini thing. Have a BRP SC18 that is pretty much stock. What are the hot mods and set up tips for this car. Also what are some good motors to get. Thanks, MED


----------



## k1m

*Welcome MED*

I'd say the best thing to invest in first is the ball diff kit. If you want to race, it'll make it more predictable in the turns. 

Here's a link to my 1/18 scale web page, be sure to check out Pit Tips:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPhome.html

Micro_Racer: Thanks for the info on Da Track. What gear were you running? Not quite sure what you mean by pushing in the straights??


----------



## Micro_Racer

Hello k1m,

I may not have the proper terminology but, when I come off the corner and throttle up the car’s rear end tries to pass the front end! So the car “pushes” to the left. When zipping down the strait you end up making a lot of steering adjustments to compensate the rear push. I hope that makes sense! Bottom line with the foam tires it is very difficult to drive a strain line at full throttle.
I am using the ball dif gear and 9 tooth pinion.

P.S. Bud showed me his “summer project” a small gas engine for the SC-18!

Med511…check out my web site for hop-up tips! 

http://home.attbi.com/~michael.elwood/RC_Home.html


----------



## k1m

*Micro_racer*

What you describe is normally said to be "loose off" in other words, the rear end is loose and tries to come around when you get on it comming off the turn. The opposite is obviously "tight" where the front wheels don't want to turn the car and they seem to "push" sideways instead of turning. If your car ALWAYS heads off to one side when you try and accelerate, there is something wrong with your diff or maybe it's just too tight. I like my cars alittle loose, but alittle push is easier to drive. The worst thing is what they call "pushy-loose" where your car pushes and doesn't want to turn going into the corner, then becomes loose and wants to spin out comming off the turn. It's all fixable though, if you have the resources.
This is the first I've tried anything but foams on a BuRP, but with trucks and touring cars, foams seemed to work on rough blacktop like streets, and rough concrete. But on sealed surfaces or smooth concrete, the rubber tires gave more traction. You may even want to try a combination like front foams and soft rubber rears to hook it up.

Nobody talks about it much, but we can change the front caster on SC18's and that may help too.

:hat: NEW PIT TIP :hat: 

When I replaced the front bushings with flanged bearings, I noticed that they fit the wheels (hubs) very loosely. So loose that just by turning them upside down, the bearing would fall out. A bearing does no good if it turns in the wheel instead of the bearing itself turning. I took a flat blade screwdriver and forced little dent marks into the wheels right where the bearings fit in. 4 or 5 is enough on each side and the bearings fit nice and tight!


----------



## Guest

Can you put bearings in to support the rear axle?


----------



## k1m

*Bolink Boy*

That would be the most logical place for bearings as any slop there affects gear mesh. If you just run for fun, do it. (You'll have to sand down the axle some so if fits in the bearing). The only reason I've put them in the front of my SC18 is because Bud has Ok'd them (front only) for his track. Until now the rules were no bearings. Check your local track rules.


----------



## marioparnelli

*CLASSIC'S ROLLCALL*

Who's planning on going to Classic's Saturday?


----------



## Micro_Racer

I will be racing at Classics

:roll:


----------



## 2slow00

Mario, Bill and I will be there about 3. If you get there first save us a spot.


----------



## BudBartos

Of course I will be there!!!!
There are about 7 guys coming that I know of there should be a big turnout  
I will have some set up tips for DA TRACK as soon as I get to run on it more. It has LOTS of bite! Micro-racer had a very loose car we will have to work on that setup. The track is FAST and fun can't wait to get a bunch of cars on it!


----------



## Guest

I finally got to run my sc18 on a real track. It is quick but the only fast way around was to keep the speed up in the turns because it seems to be overgeared. I'll gear down a tooth when I use my Rotor motor. BTW, I found lots of goodies at www.cyberslot.com


----------



## BudBartos

Bolinkboy>> The rotor motors do not have as much torque as the stock kit motors because of the large can cutout. The XP magnets will help alot, also make sure the brushes are broken in very good.


----------



## Guest

Bud, I just sent you an order for the magnets and a saleen body. Will the magnets fit in the rotor motor? Thanx :thumbsup:


----------



## MaddMatt

*Never ending search for the perfect battery*

hey everybody:

As always I am involved in my never-ending search for the ultimate battery pack. I recently found a small Li-ion battery that will fit nicely, is lighter and is rated at 1200mah. 

Does anyone have any info on Li-Ion batteries?

Madd Matt


----------



## BudBartos

Bolink boy>> Yes the XP mags will fit.


----------



## marioparnelli

*2slow00*

Will do:roll:


----------



## k1m

*Play Day in Pa,*

Tomorrow me, Ovalman, KSG, Donalbain, and a couple of others plan to meet at a local School parkinglot for some of the most fun you can have with an R/C. and it's FREE! We plan these informal get togethers between the regular racing seasons here in our area to keep our trigger fingers from itching too bad. Unless it rains, you're guarenteed a good time with alittle racing and alot of B.S.ing. 
I'll get a chance to try out my new SC18 and it's HPI rubber tires. I did run it up and down our street last night, and it was FAST! I haven't run the soft pair of tires yet, but they're so sticky I picture them picking up dirt like a lint roller! 
We'll probably be running everything everything from E-Max's to BuRPs tomorrow, sometimes even at the same time!


----------



## Guest

*oval race*

Had a blast running the oval at Classis with the BRP car, would like to do it again. 13 cars in the main!!!!!!! WOW!
Thanks Bud!
Dan medved:thumbsup:


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Oval Race*

I can't wait for the next oval race at Classic's. Thanks to Bud and everyone else who helped me set up my car! Do we have a date for the next race? 

I will see all of you at Da Track May 4th...

Michael (AKA Micro_Racer)
:thumbsup:


----------



## BudBartos

Micro-racer>>> Next carpet oval will be next season, we may run there road course a couple of times this summer!
What a total blast racing the BRP's at Classic. We had 13 entrys which was not to bad for the time of year. The main was run with all 13 cars at one time it was like a real nascar race. After we finished the 5 min main we all kept running just to see how long we could go, how about 15 min. on the stock BRP batts which are 700 mah  
Hope to see you all at the BRP race May 4th:wave:


----------



## hankster

Attached is a picture of "Da Track", home of BRP Racing!


----------



## 2slow00

Bud with the personal transponders we may be able to run 20 cars in the mains! I think the next oval race should be a 10 min. main . We may have to build a heavy duty drivers stand .


----------



## BudBartos

2slow00... Yes I heard that it was creeking!
Has anyone seen the SC18 review in Car Action yet? I have been told that the BRP car blew the others away? :lol: But we know that already.


----------



## Nil

Dang! Sorry I missed the fun. On the bright side, Ma's doing better, and she appreciated the help around the house. See you on the fourth, I hope. 

Nil


----------



## 2slow00

nil you would have had agood time. We ran all cars in the main. You had to make the top 10 to get a transponder. Hope to see you and your son on the 4th.


----------



## k1m

Our play day nearly got rained out, we got a late start and only acouple of us showed up. We ran a few batterys through the BuRPs and our buggys and had some good laughs. The SC18 ran very well, alittle loose on the cold blacktop with the HPI rubber tires, but VERY fast. I had to adjust the diff alittle, but other than that it held together great. I did manage to pop one of the rear wheels off the adapter on the inside. (I was afraid of that) We laughed as we watched it roll across the pavement and into alittle dip. Then when I went to get it I noticed that it nearly rolled into a storm drain. It stopped about 3 inches from the grate which would have been bye,bye, pretty little wheel!  
The Fun Wons were hooked as usual on their foam tires, as were our Losi buggys. The only casuality of the day was my 1/10 scale buggy, after a fierce battle until Don's battery died, I was just taking a few more laps until mine dumped. Not sure what happened,(brain fart)but me and the cement curb got together and I came out with a broken front bulkhead. It stopped with the car on the pavement and the left front tire, etc up on top of the curb! Only about a $9.00 part and good for a heck of a laugh.


----------



## Donalbain

*You said brain fart, hehehe*

That's right! K1m's BRP was streakin' across that parking lot. Didn't take much "racing" before I felt I needed a new motor! He must have a 2.1 gigawatt flux copasitor in there some where.:lol: See you in Ohio, May 3rd.


----------



## 2slow00

Bud just got the new Car Action with the mini comparisons I think it was a good article and the SC18 was rated the fastest and best all around racing type vehicle.I still can't believe some guys put $800 dollars and up in the HPI and other mini's.


----------



## k1m

*2slowOO*

Good to hear Car Action has finally given some attention to BRP, they're sniffin too much nitro lately, they lost my sub. a while ago - guess I'll have to break down and buy one of their rags again.
Xtreme R/C did a good review on the old chassis awhile back, maybe they'll catch up to the 1/18 scale craze too and review the SC18.

Looks like 4 of us from Racer's Edge here in Pa. will be making the pilgrimage to BRP World Headquarters, May 4th to race on "Da Track" in Elyria, Ohio. I'm painting up a new body for my BuRP with hopes I can get Bud to sign it for me when we get out there. We've been racing Bud's cars now for over 2 years and we've really been happy with the quality of the cars and the enjoyment we've had racing these cars for very little money.

I need some info from you locals - how do we get from the Comfort Inn on Leona St. to Da Track? We've already got our eye on the Red Lobster, but where else should we look for? How far is shiftersraceway.com from Elyria?


----------



## BudBartos

2slow00 & k1m>>> I have not rec'v my car action yet. Hope it helps with sales  
Dick we may need more hot dogs Greers are coming from Toledo K1m and the guys and girls we may have 20 to 25 at the first race WOW! We could make it the ashphalt oval word champs!!!
I will have some set up tips later since I got to run on DA TRACK friday for some time.
K1m >> From the comfort in go to the stop light at corner, turn right,stay on that road you will come to a left hand turn that the road makes still stay on that road, there will be a stop light at rt 113 go thru that to the next stop sign,that is Lowell st turn left and world headquarters is on the left side. There is a electric plug by the AC if you guys come on friday and want to run :wave:


----------



## OvalmanPA

*dogs*

*Bud*...with KSG and K1M coming from our track you're *DEFINATELY* going to need more hot dogs! :lol:


----------



## BudBartos

OK I hear you!!!!
K1m>>> I changed the directions in above reply go by those. When will you guys be coming in?
The Car Action review was good hope it helps boost sales so I can run some of those $5,000.00 two page spread ads like the other guy!


----------



## BudBartos

Well I have some initial setup tips for DA TRACK!
SC18, med rears, orange fronts, geared 9/52 no chassis wedge, no tire traction. Car will be pretty well hooked but front tire wear is on the high side. The track is fast turn 2 is slightly off chamber so car will want to push slightly, small bump exit of turn 2 but should be no problem, slight crack entrance to turn 3 stay tight going in and it is fine, 3 and 4 smooth, front strait smooth, turn 1 smooth.
I'm testing some long wear fronts and they look good, just have to see if I get foam in time for the first race. I ran 17 min straight on stock 700 mah cells and that was a old pack. The right front tire wore .025 total, so if we only run 5 min heats and rotate tires they will be the way to go. Atleast right now with the testing I have done.
The orange fronts will wear out in maybe two race weekends.
Rubber tires>>> Car seems to be slightly faster maybe just because of the larger dia. HPI stock fronts and Dynamite soft rears hook up very good. With the HPI stock rears and stock fronts car was way loose. The wheels and tires look neet but I totally hate to glue them up, however they showed almost no wear on them. So as you see there are going to be different ways to go. Right now I will be running the long wear fronts.
Will let you know more when I get to run some more.
Right now I plan on 5 min qualifiers maybe longer mains.
Later :wave:


----------



## k1m

Bud: Would that first right be on Griswald St. or rt 57?
We hope to get there Fri afternoon and if it's OK I think we'd all like to run a pack for practice.
What compound are the stock SC18 foams? 
Also, any tips for the Fun Wons - especially gearing? 
Here's a custom BRP avatar if I can get Hank to add it to the list, I sent it in quite a while ago.


----------



## BudBartos

K1m>> SC18 stock kit tires med all around. The SC Fun Wons will be hooked with the kit tires and they will be real fast!! Gear them 9 / 52
I may just have to get me onr of them ready to go.
Sure you can run all you want on friday!! Want me to put lights out there?????


----------



## Nil

*Re: 2slowOO*



k1m said:


> *How far is shiftersraceway.com from Elyria? *


KiM:

Shifters is about 30-40 miles from Elyria; on the bright side, if you're driving I-90, you go within about 4 miles of it as you enter greater Cleveland.

Let me know if you need more explicit directions.

Nil


----------



## kanesurfguru

*Re: dogs*



OvalmanPA said:


> *Bud...with KSG and K1M coming from our track you're DEFINATELY going to need more hot dogs! :lol: *


Hey I resemble that remark ;^)

BUD: looking forward to this comming weekend.


----------



## OvalmanPA

John...I knew you'd appreciate that if you saw it.


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Da Track*

I ran the HPI stock front and back tires geared 9/52. The track was COLD so it was a little loose. I hope the sun will be out for race day, with a hot track the rubber should stick well. The small bump exit of turn 2 (if you are on the inside) is nasty! If you miscalculate a turn it is possible to jump the plastic pipe wall! I ran one pack for 10 minutes, when I looked at my car it was very dusty! The dust stuck to everything, bring a lot of rags!


----------



## Guest

maybe Bud will have a leaf blower too blow off the track, at Eastlake I would sweap & blow the track off, just like real racing if you get out of the grove you'll pick up debris.
I have too work this saturday till 4:00, bummer! well have a good time.


----------



## BudBartos

micro racer >>> The stock HPI rears will not hook up. Look at the post above 
I will have the track blowen off, it was nice and clean friday then the wind and rain came.


----------



## aconsola

HI all,
A few quick questions, I am looking to order the SC Fun Wons DA BUG Kit to replace my original oval outlaw and compliment(beat?) my HPI micro.
What size pinion comes with the kit, and how many teeth are on the Fun ones ball diff?
I want to get the "other" sized spur and pinions, and don't want to wind up missing one and having 2 of the same.
What size are the bearings on the axles, and is there a bearing that fits on the spur gear?
one other thing, I have a track setup in my basement that I run the Micro on, what tires would you recomend for painted concrete? 
Thanks,
-Anthony


----------



## k1m

*Welcome aconsola!*

The SC18 comes with 9/46 gears, the diff kit comes with a 46t also but you can get a 52t for the ball diff too. In a small area (less than 20-30 ft) go with 7/52.

All axle bearings are 1/8 x 5/16. You'll have to sand down the rear axle to get it to fit, though. It's made for the bushings.

The diff gear bearing is 3/16 X 5/16

Painted concrete is SLIPPERY! If the micro's hook up, use HPI tires and Bud's adapter kit. If the rubber tires are loose, maybe the stock foams will work. You're best bet is to get the surface as clean as possible. Let us know how you compare the SC18, Anthony.

Here's a pic of the new SC18 with HPI rubber. I finally painted the body and will have another pic soon.
:hat:


----------



## aconsola

k1m,
Thanks for the info. Think I'm gonna wait for the wife to go to bed to sneak out the Credit cards and place an order . . . 

-Anthony


----------



## aconsola

Just thought of another pre-order?
Will the HPI wheel adapters work with the fun-wons specific ball diff, or does it only work with the standard tire version of the diff?
Thanks,
-Anthony


----------



## k1m

The HPI wheel adapters are for the SC18, but I cant see why you couldn't adapt them to the Fun Won, it'd be like a low rider. Maybe you could get a RAM chip that would thump!:dude:

Where's Vestal, Anthony?


----------



## aconsola

k1m,
I want to put the HPI wheels on the sc18, but I also want to get the da bug body which only comes with the fun wons wheels, I think I'll wait on the adapters, and just see how the stock car does on its own.
Vestal is a town in the Binghamton NY area.
Thanks again,
-Anthony


----------



## k1m

*SC18 Bug*

I'd give Bud a call if I were you, maybe he can fix you up with a SC18 Bug kit. Where else can you hook right up to the manufacturer and talk to "Da Man"?

On the other hand, Da Bug does very well stock (Fun Won), just alittle top heavy, mount the body low.


----------



## kanesurfguru

Yes DA Bug can be top heavy, but what other vehicle can you get to roll over right back on it's wheels 9 out of 10 times. And of course have fun doing it


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Congrats to Bud*

In the June 2002 Radio Control Car Action Magazine, Bud's SC-18 was picked fastest at 21mph and got the Editor's Pick from Peter Vieira! Finally the prof that SC-18 is faster than a Micro!

Way to go BUD!!!!

:thumbsup:


----------



## Guest

Hi fellows,
Just have a question maybe someone can answer.
Which catagory in swap&sell should I use to list
some BRP cars & accessories I have for sale.
Thanks, MEGOO


----------



## kanesurfguru

Megoo:

I would sell them in the Accessories section, it seems to me that most people look there first. Just my two cents.


----------



## aconsola

*first impression. . .*

Got MY SC18 Da-Bug kit today, and got it up and running. I tried it out box stock first to see how it handled, and needless to say, steering on my tight track was terrible.
I put in the ball diff, added a bit of tire traction compound to the front tires, and wow, what a difference!
This car is much quicker than my Micro, although handling is not as good, but that could be because I'm used to (cheating with)4wd on the micro and need to adjust.
I came up with a few more ?'s.
In the instructions it says that it comes with blue(med) tires all around, but mine came with orange(hard) up front. Is it supposed to have the softer ones up front, or is that a running change, or does that only apply to the std tires and not the fun-wons?
Is there any way to safely remove and re-install a pinion without a gear puller and press? The pinion that's on there now only engages half the spur gear, and I'd like to put a smaller one on anyway.
anyone know of decent tools that won't break the bank, and where I can get'em, there's no slot presence locally.
Tomorrow I'm off to the LHS to get bearings, and then I'll install them, the XP magnets, and the 52t spur gear.
Thanks,
-Anthony


----------



## kanesurfguru

I own a NINCO gear press and puller all in one model # 70201

You can get it at http://www.radtrax.com/indexA.html online.

I believe the cost is $10.49

Just go to the address above and click on the slot car model online store and then look for it there. I just found it there, but the URL address stays the same through out the catalog. So just look it up.

Hope that helps

I have also attached a picture for you.


----------



## BudBartos

aconsola>> The blue orange fronts were a running change that we made some time ago. If you need more front bite you can try softer front springs, if you still need more you can go to the blue coumpond tires all around.


----------



## BudBartos

We had some action at DA TRACK today! The guys fron PA were shaking down there rides, the SC18 Fun Wons looked pretty fast. Several others were also getting some testing in.
I have some long wear tires that " ARE THE TICKET"
It is going to be a hoot :wave:


----------



## Nil

Bud:

You have softer springs than the Oranges now? I've been meaning to ask since the mag said something about accessory springs.

Nil


----------



## Nil

Nil said:


> *You have softer springs than the Oranges now? *


I had a chance to talk to Bud today; the oranges are the softest he has, but he said someone has softer straight springs.

Nil


----------



## ancientsgamer

*AMR Bodies*

Does anyone have an online source for these 1/18th scale bodies? I know I have seen one but I have lost the bookmark.

Thanks!

Chris


----------



## aeracer

*1/18 scale bodies*

Ancient-
Check out the BRP web page at the following link-http://brpracing.com/18bodypics.html


----------



## Nil

*Re: AMR Bodies*

Do you mean ARM? http://www.dxmarket.com/arm/

Nil


----------



## k1m

*SC18 Springs*

Nil: Sorry I couldn't make Bud's May race maybe I'll see you at the June race. I found these springs on Tower's site they are for associated 12L #'s. They're $2/pr
.024 #8433 soft tower# LX3147
.022 #8431 tower# LX3146
.020 #8429 tower# LX3145
.018 #8427 hard tower# LX3144

Not sure how they compare to Bud's orange springs.....Were you running blue front tires?


----------



## Nil

Not sure what they were; probably blue. I forgot my transmitter on the workbench at home (*DOHHH!*) and had to get a rental.

Thanks for the spring info.

Nil


----------



## ancientsgamer

*Nil!*

Nil,

Excuse my dislexia! No wonder I couldn't find them on the net.:lol: 

Thanks again!

Chris


----------



## BudBartos

TO ALL >> We are going to be racing in Toledo this sat. if anyone is in the area. The racing is put on by the Black Swamp RC Club in the parking lot of the Riders hobby shop. They run micros and BRP along with the other big car classes :wave:


----------



## ancientsgamer

*Ball Diff. Parts*

Bud,

Does your rebuild kit come with the plastic adapter ring for the hub?
I bought a used Oval Outlaw that needs tire replacements and the owner put too much glue on the adapter ring so I need to get a new one.


----------



## BudBartos

Ancientsgamer>> No we don't have that part listed and it does not come with the rebuild kit. But if you order a rebuild kit from us I will put one in for you.


----------



## BudBartos

Well guys we got to race against some Micros today!! It was at the Black Swamp RC club in Toledo OH. They all had mod motors 6 cells and various other hop ups $$$$$ one of them with the $70.00 Orion coreless mod motor!
Here is how things went we only ran three Qualifiers and then it rained. I was TQ by two laps over Don S, then there was Dan K in third and David G was fourth all running SC18 cars. The highest placing Micro was 7 laps down with 17 laps to my 24, that is 5 sec a lap slower, 90 sec slower over a 5 min race. 
Needless to say there will be more BRP cars running there in the future.
One other thing I would have been second fastest in 1/10th TC and would have TQed the Legends class by 3 laps.
Wow :wave: And I'm OLD!!!!!!


----------



## 2slow00

Bud,You The MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Guest

:thumbsup: 
For sure your car is the BEST! Hope to make some of the up coming races soon.
Dan M


----------



## Guest

*Micro*

Hey Bud, we have a few micro's that I know won't get lapped in 5 min., I know mine won't. Hope to see you sunday.
Richard


----------



## BudBartos

Richard>> Good to here from you. I don't know if we will make it this sunday have to watch the weather. It will be fun to get with some good running micros. It really was sad how bad they were running. But don't forget the fact that I would have been second in 1/10th TC and they were running well. Your car is basicly stock like we run our SC18 right?? No chassis, alum parts, mod motors ect :thumbsup: I will post on CORCARS site when we plan to make a road trip down.
Maybe a group of you guys could make it to the next race at the BRP track it is on June 1st and it is road course. :wave:


----------



## Nil

Think 2sl00w would let them have hot dogs, even if they do run Micros?


----------



## 2slow00

nil there will be hot dogs for everyone regardless of make or model. No discrimination at Da Track!:roll:


----------



## k1m

*Hotdogs & Hot Hopups*

2SlowOO: Lookin forward to a couple of those hotdogs Jun 1. KSG & Don say you cook a meaner weiner! It's cool how you guys get together to feed everyone. We've had races here at our house where everyone brought something and we cooked burgers & dogs on the grill. Always alot of B.S. and alittle good time racing, pretty hard to beat, huh?

I've been checking out the Micro site and came up with some new stuff SC18 owners who run HPI wheels/tires might be interested in:

Since foam tires were the hot setup at Da Track
Foam tires for Micro RS4 -
Trinity, comes mounted on chrome HPI wheels $10.
TM1800 - front, hard
TM1801 - front, soft
TM1810 - rear, hard
TM1811 - rear, soft

and

Hypertech Tires, sold in sets of 4 tires - donuts
#4SCM-1 (4)reg width $12.
#6SCM-2 (4)wide width $16.
try http://hypertechracing.com
Here's a pic: http://yourmicro.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=14061

Another manufacturer of foam micro tires is a company called SLIX6 but so far thats all the info I have.

also

Looks like Trinity might get into 1/18 Scale bodies
Trinity Micro V-coupe lexan body REF1601 $16.


----------



## BudBartos

K1m >>> Go with the trinity tires. Some of those Chinese and other US companys don't use the right foam!!!!
Are you guys planing on the June 1st road race at DA TRACK???


----------



## k1m

Bud:
Yes, we're going to try again and hope to race with you June 1st. Sounds like some of the Micro racers would like to give it a go too. Do you run your road course clockwise?

You have Email


----------



## 2slow00

*dogs*

k1m you and your crew are more than welcome to our fine dining experience. I enjoy doing the cooking.("can't drive but he sure can cook")donaldbain and kanesurfguru are both good drivers but said you are the guy to give Bud a run for his money.Can't wait to meet you and some more of your crew on the 1st. Hope to see you then.


----------



## BudBartos

K1m>> We will be running the road course counter clockwise. Bump on back straight not as bad thet way.


----------



## TangTester

Hey Guys,

I just got an email from Tony, Vicki had a little boy.

Congrats,
Patrick


----------



## Nil

TangTester said:


> * Vicki had a little boy.*


Way to go, Tony. That's gonna be some racer. I wonder what R/Cing will be like by then? Cameras in the cars? Feedback on the wheel?

Nil


----------



## k1m

*May 4 at Da Track*

I got to see a video tape of some of the racing at Da Track May 4th thanks to Donalbain & KaneSurfGuru. It looked like a nice day to race and a real good time. You guys were really cranking off the laps, I checked, something like 5-6 sec laps? Man, that's gotta be a long 10 minutes! Maybe not though, we race 5 minutes and they fly by - I usually get to laughing and the next thing you know the race is over.

Who was the guy with the body dragging? I heard him say something about the track would wear it off, but I think his tires were wearing more than the lexan was cause it just got worse.

Looks like you guys really had fun...that's what it's all about.

Sorry you got beat, Bud - he's a good driver and you must have rented him a good car, huh? How many rentals do you usually get at a race? I'm thinking about setting up a seperate car to loan out.

Nil: Don't feel bad, I've gone racing without my transmitter before, another time I had everything but my batterys! Blame it on stress - that's all I can say!


----------



## marioparnelli

*CLASSICS*

Are anyone of you guys up to trying your SC18's at Classic's roadcourse May 19? I will if we can get enough racers to make a class.


----------



## rayhuang

*BRP SC18*

Bud,

How are things with you??? ANy word from the Michigan boys about producing there tricked out SC18 that uses 1/2 AA (??) and the carbon fiber chassis?? Thats car was so cool and soo fast!!! I think with equal motors, batteries the Stock SC18 is very fast, but I love Carbon Fiber!!!!! Just wondering!!! Glad you guys are having so much fun racing this summer!!!

Ray


----------



## BudBartos

Ray >>> Have not heard from them, maybe they just run carpet! You need to get one of those and come race us


----------



## BudBartos

mario P >> I might try to get to Columbus sunday if weather is looking OK, If I don't go there I may come to classic. email me like friday nite.


----------



## Doorman

*Norcar website*

Big Al posted the Classic summer schedule on the Norcar website.
Thanks Big Al!
You can go to Classic's website for the schedule and pictures of the "big Track".

Hey Bud! Talked to eddie from Classic today. He likes the idea of your rent a ride program. Let me know when you plan to come down and race so eddie can announce it at there saturday oval race.
Maybe we can get some oval guy's running the "Big Track" instead of just pitting by it. I heard there oval crowd is down right now.
Might be a good time to get some racers.

Talk to you soon.
Tracy


----------



## marioparnelli

*HEY BUD*

:wave: The weather is looking iffy for Sunday at Classic's, but if it is dry I will be there. What tires do you think would work the best on concrete? Rubber or foam?


----------



## Nil

All packed up and ready to head for Columbus. Wanna see the CORCAR track.

The Weather channel says PM showers for there on Sunday, Cleveland.com says Clouds and sun. 50-50 for a full day, I figger.

Nil


----------



## BudBartos

Mario P >> I think the long wear that we raced at DA Track will work. If you need more rear bite use the kit rears and LW fronts.
Nil >>> I think we are going to try to get down to CORCAR weather looks better there and a little warmer. Will get to Classic for the next race.


----------



## k1m

*Tires & Pic*

Must be a bitch having to decide where you want to race!  I'm just jealous, we're not racing where I live here in Pa at all right now.

Bud: What compound is LW - pink? Don't see it on web page...

Here's a pic of my SC-18 on HPI rubber I forgot I had in the camera...


----------



## kanesurfguru

K1M:

Nice paint job on the sc18, that's the first I saw that. Looks like it is going to drive right off the hot tub  

So you and the misses going to BRP world on June 1st.?

I think I might go back, it was a lot of fun & nice people.


BUD: 

Do you use the same foams for the road course? Do you recognize the racer in the grey sweatshirt, in the pic attached? He looks like he is having a lot of fun!


----------



## Nil

*CORCAR*

Weather is not too bad in Columbus. Prtly sunny, chilly & windy. No rain today. Went over to see the CORCAR track; one fellow was practicing with a Nitro HPI. Next to no traction. I assume he knew what he was doing; he brought along three nitros.

Nice rod show next to the Lowes today.

Nil


----------



## Donalbain

*Merchandise*

Bud,

Do you have any of those gray BRP sweatshirts for sale? You could have sold at least two May 4th!!


----------



## BudBartos

The LW foam is purple and it will not be on the web site! It's just for special racers that come to DA TRACK  Sorry no gray sweatshirts.
So far the same foams will work on the road course. I wish it would stop raining and being so cold so I could test some stuff.
Well were off to CORCAR in Columbus to race with the Mod micros, will let you all know how it goes.


----------



## marioparnelli

:wave: I just got back from running my SC18 on Classic's on-road track. Looks like the SC18s handled the concrete track pretty good.:thumbsup: There are a few bumps in one section of the track to avoid, but, all in all the track is ok for the SC18s. I ended up with the LW tires up front and the kit tires on the rear. With that tire setup the car was a little loose in the rear(contolable), with alot of front end grip. Tire wear was the same as at Da Track. I didn't have a set of rubber tires to try. I think they would work too. My car looked fast on that big track. It's all high speed, nothing tight and a blast to drive. Some of the touring car guys were suprised on how fast the "little" cars were. I was the only SC18 there. So it was just a practice day for me.


----------



## Nil

*Beautiful Day in Columbus*

The weather was sunny, but cool, and the rain held off, although it was threatening by the end of the day. The CORCAR track hooked up a lot better after they treated it.

The SCs did well. They had a one-two finish, Bud Bartos/Don Smolik. The Micros were quite a ways back.

Nil


----------



## pmelchman

*directions??*

I was wondering if you had directions or a web page to the track in Columbus?

pmelchman:wave:


----------



## BudBartos

pmelchman>> CORCAR web site

MarioP... good to here you hooked up OK at Classic! Tell Walt we will try to get down for the next race.

ALL.. We had a nice day at the CORCAR race the track is huge, biggest class is nitro touring so that will give you a idea of the size. Our BRP cars handled the track fine. I ended up TQ with 18 laps Don S was second one lap down and the highest Micro was third 2 laps down on that big track.
The micro did not ever resemble a HPI car except for the wheels, he even had a BRP truck body on it. The racers were very impressed at how fast our BRP cars were and I even sold three on the spot.
I did have to tell the announcer that we were running stock kit cars not Modified since we were running with the Mod micros. 
I did get whooped on however the Nitro Touring cars were 5 laps faster than my 1/18th!!
Some of the racers from down there are planing on coming to the next race at DA TRACK I hope they can make it.
Later :wave:


----------



## 2slow00

Good job Bud and Don. Nil how did you do? Bud did they have a lot of 18th scale entries? How many do you think might make the trip to world headquarters?


----------



## BudBartos

2sloww00>>> Will James qualified 5th and Spain had radio trouble! They had 10 1/18th 6 micros and 4 BRP, talked to a local micro racer that finished third and he said there are quite a few down there but they don't race 
Looks like there will be 20 to 25 at the next race at DA TRACK!!!!
You guys need to make a trip down to CORCAR the track is wide open and fast. Oh yes we stopped at QSL on the way home:thumbsup:


----------



## pmelchman

*gears??*

 Bud,

I was wondering if you can tell, give me a brief lesson on gears for the BRP? What comes stock? Why would you want to change gears? Track size makes a difference?

melchman


----------



## k1m

*Gears*

I'm not Bud, but maybe I can help....
The SC18 & Fun Wons come with a 46t spur and a 9t pinion on the motor. They work fine this way but if you want to race, you'll want to add the optional ball diff. You can also change the spur gear to a 52t which makes the car rev up faster and alittle more controlable in smaller places. You can also change the pinion gear to a 8t or a 7t which effects it the same way, only to a lesser degree.

big track - big pinion/small spur
small(tight)track - small pinion/big spur

Maybe this will help too:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BRPittips.html


----------



## BudBartos

K1M >>>A perfect answer :thumbsup:


----------



## pmelchman

*ty*

Thanks for the tips. I just want to be ready for any track condition. My HS-81mg servo came in today. boy is it small. I'm open to suggestions on a esc. I have a novak rooster at the moment but it is very very very very very big. I'm looking for a smaller foot print and spending about 70-85 bucks. Any Ideas?

Ty

melchman

stay off your lid!!!


----------



## marioparnelli

I bought a LRP Quantum Sport for $75.00 from my LHS. It measures about 1" by 1". I'm very happy with this speedo in my SC18:thumbsup:


----------



## rayhuang

*LRP*

Mario-How would that LRP work in a 12th scale or a TC??? Is it much slower than a Competition you think?? I was thinking of the Duratrax Spike (??) for my next BRP car as its Really small!!!


----------



## marioparnelli

Hi :wave: Ray, look at RCCA's june issue pg.131 LRP lists the specs of all their Speedos. The sport (#lrp8440) I have is great for SC18 and I think 12th stock. The pro sport(#lrp8460) looks interesting for touring and mod. motors to me.:roll:


----------



## pmelchman

*esc and windings?*

how many windings are on a BRP motor? That seems to be one of the factors in buying a esc. The smaller the footprint the better. My esc rooster is great for my step-sons to play with around home but its huge.... weight...tons...

I was looking at LRP myself...

ty melchman:wave:


----------



## kanesurfguru

*ESC.........*

Don't worry about the windings, there like 70T, any esc that you can buy that will run a stock 27 turn motor with run your BRP motor. Shop around there are a lot of ESC's out there that are cheap and do a good job. Just DON'T BUY AN AIRTRONICS ES-01 !!! It can not hand the BRP motor. I found this out by trial and error. I was the experimenter on this one.  A lot of people I know use the Futaba 230 ESC, I got a good deal on a GM V4R ($45 new) and that works for me, some other people I know use the Duratrax ESC. So it realy doesn't matter, but you do need to find one that will fit in your BRP with your other electronics. Just my two cents. Hope it helps.


----------



## rayhuang

*ESC revisited!!!*

kanesurfguru has hit it on the head. Lots of choices,most work the same, and with exception of AIR, all work on an BRP's SLot car motored cars. 


My BRP car was super fast last winter with just a Dynamite Power Pulse Forw. Reverse ESC, which probably weighed as much as the car and was HUGE!!! Okay-not AS heavy, but you know what I mean!!! It also had a cheaper, slow servo in it and it handled great. *DONT be lulled into thinking you need to spend $$$$ to have an A-main capable BRP car!!!!* The fun is in having an inexpensive car and whooping but with it!!! 


Heck Buds rental cars can TQ and win with the right driver!!!



The BRP is like racing 12th scale anyways-its more driver than car for a awhile. Its all about carrying maximum speed in corners and building and maintaining car perfectly so it is as friction fee as possible at all times.


----------



## pmelchman

Thanks for all the input, I just hate spending the money to find out later what works and what doesn't work. A question can save tiem and money!!  

Do any of you know of someone who can paint bodies? I have several great ideas but I can draw a straight line with a ruler!!! 

ty 

melchman


----------



## rayhuang

*Piant*

e-mail me for info on paint jobs!!

[email protected]


----------



## pmelchman

*kewl paint*

:thumbsup: kewl paint job!!!


melchman


----------



## k1m

*Melchman*

Check out the Futaba MC230CR before you buy. It's tiny and works great in BRP cars:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUY13&P=7

We have 2 of them and like them alot.


----------



## Nil

Just an additional vote for the Futaba MC230CR. Ray was talking about the Spike awhile back; I've run three different ones in various cars, including two BRPs. The problem with it is getting the high end screw set right. Set too high, you don't get any mid-throttle control; set too low, the car won't hit top power. If you can get this right, it's fine. Take off the heat sink for BRPs; definitely not needed, and prone to loss anyway. 

The Futaba is worth the extra $10 or so, just to make sure you have the set up right.

Nil


----------



## Micro_Racer

*ESC*

I had the Spike in my BRP...loved the size, but not the performance. It it hard to get it set up just right. I just got the LRP....much better performance.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRE96&P=7


----------



## rayhuang

*Thanks!!!*

NIL,

Good input on the Spike!!! I wont be getting one now!!! One button set-up is worth an extra $10.00 for sure. But boy that spike looks small and light!!!


----------



## aeracer

*Duratrax spike*

One thing to keep in mind is that the Spike is a low frequency speed control (60hz?). The throttle response will be similar to an on off switch. I prefer the Futaba 230CR- high frequency, small footprint, and reasonable price- 50$. With speed controls, you get what you pay for.


----------



## pmelchman

*esc*

 from what I have read I like the LRP product. but which one. THey make a ton of them. I know I want forward/brake only so I can race. My Rooster has rev. THe kids like that!!! 

I'm also trying to install turn buckles and a servo saver. I just want to ability to fine tune the steering.

Take Care

melchman


----------



## aconsola

on most of the speedos you can disable reverse so you can race, as long as that is allowed in the track rules.
I don't race, but I have a rooster, lrp f-1, and a futaba 230. all are easy to setup and work flawlesly, but the futaba is tiny compared to the other2, and the case opens up easiest, so you can easliy replace the wires with ones more realistically sized for 1/18 cars.
for a forward only solution, the quantum sports seem to be popular as well, due to the quantum's setup where the bat/motor wires areaccessable withoug removing the case
-Anthony


----------



## pmelchman

*esc*

 Thanks for the info. it is very helpful. It's still a very tough decision. thanks........

melchman


----------



## k1m

*Bud or Hank - avatar question*

Nice avatar Bud - But for some reason, Hank replaced mine with yours. when I hooked up I had the BRP logo. I'd like to submit another but i don't want you to lose yours. I'll email it to Hank again, but please ask him about it.


----------



## BudBartos

K1M >>> Thats what I sent him what you see! That is what was in your email????
Is it right?


----------



## k1m

Yep, yours looks good.... but he put it where mine was for some reason and took mine off, No big deal - I'll resubmit mine, maybe it'll be ok then. We'll see.


----------



## BudBartos

OK I see!!! Or sould I say don't See!
Are any of the PA gand planing on coming to the race on June1????


----------



## Donalbain

I'll be there! 1 hour to KSG's house, 3 1/2 hours to Ohio!


----------



## MaddMatt

*Rookie User*

Hey everybody! 

I want to make sure I didn't screw anything up. I ran my new SC18's yesterday for a couple of hours. I didn't dip and really didn't do anything much before running them (and running them and running them...)

Did I screw anything up by doing this?

Why I am concerned is because the motors were getting pretty hot and every once in a while a car would either slow down or stop completely until it was hit.

Help!

Madd Matt


----------



## Nil

The first thing that pops to mind is, were the gears too tight? 

Second, hot motors is not unusual if there is a lot of slow down/accelerate action involved. My BRP motors get quite warm (read ouch!) on a road course, but on a fast oval, with full throttle all the time, stay cool.

Third, for it to stop(!), you are either binding a bearing, likely the motor, or causing the thermal overload in the ESC to kick in. The latter is unlikely with a BRP.

So, a couple of questions: 

What ESC are you using, and did it feel warm?

How long did the car run per charge?

Nil


----------



## k1m

*New Bodys from Proline for micro*

Proline just came out with some new bodies for the Micro. So you know what that means....they fit SC18's!

Looks like 2 trucks - Dakota & Sierra and 2 cars - Modena & 350Z


http://prolineracing.com/proline/new/micro-new.html


----------



## Donald Deutsch

You would find the wheel bases differ by about 3 millimeters. Since they show flares the wheels will off center. I mounted a 150mil HPI corvette and hade to elongate the rear wheel well.


----------



## BudBartos

Race report from CORCAR Columbus OH >>> I went back to Columbus today. I was TQ buy 2 laps running about 10 sec. faster than my time last week. Second place went to a SC18 that I sold to a Micro owner last week, He said the car was great.
Tryed running the Big Block one heat and it was just too fast for the bumps they have in the sweeper, it was as fast as the TC on the main straight. For the main I went back to the stock setup, by this time the track was seeping water again and you had to drive all over the place to avoid it. It was fun running the weird lines. Second was 2 laps down and I think it was the local Micro master!
Hope to see Ya all on the 1st :wave:


----------



## Nil

Way to go, Bud. How many cars did you take down this time?


----------



## pmelchman

*Congrats*

:thumbsup: Good job Bud. Are some of those racers gonna come to the World Headquarters and race?

melchman


----------



## BudBartos

Nil >> There was 8 racing 3 BRP!
I told them about the racing at DA TRACK will just have to see if they come up.


----------



## okracer

*indycars*

Hey Bud is there any chance of a indy car comeing out for these little monsters in the near future i know it would be tight but boy would they sure look cool


----------



## BudBartos

I have been thinking about that  
I,m building a nitro version for myself but that is somthing that we will not be selling. It will use a norvel .049 engine, I have to make all the clutch parts and many other special things.


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Da Track*

Bud... has Da Track conditions changed since the May 4th race....Any helpfull set-up tips?

Thanks
:roll:


----------



## rayhuang

*FI-YES!!!!!*

Bud, A ballstically fast F1 or Champ car would be very awesome!!! I was actually thinking of asking you that myself!!! PPPLLLEAse make them-I'd love to run those at NORCAR next year.

Also-any plans to have a BRP class at the Champs in 2002??? Even an exhibition class?


----------



## jjordan2

*Motor voltage??*

Hello fellow BRPers! 

I had a quick question about the slot car motors that come with the Fun Wons. How many cells can you safely run with it??

My bug currently runs off a Novak Rooster and I am wondering if I can make a 7-8 cell pack to run it on.
I want my Bug to be faster w/o buying a new motor.

Let me know what you think.

Also, I got extra slot car motors in a trade and have no clue what they are. They have pink endbells on them and are Parma motors.
The one that came in my bug has a green endbell.
Any help would be appreciated! 

JAy


----------



## k1m

*16d motors*

JJordan: The motors we use in our BRP's are slot car motors and I haven't been able to pry much info out of anyone about them. But I believe they run slot cars on 12v so a 7 or 8 cell will be fine as long as your ESC can handle it. Have you tried Bud's XP magnets? You might find something interesting here:

http://cyberslot.net/


----------



## BudBartos

Ray>> No Time is what they say about running anything at the champs  
Microracer>> Nothing should have changed I have not run since then. I'm going to try and get some time in on friday.
jjordan2>>> You might be able to go to 7 cells if just running in a huge parking lot if your in a smaller area the motor will probable burn up. The slot cars run on 12 volts but weigh nothing compared to the 1/18th cars. If you have the newer SC Fun Wons we have a conversion for the rear pod that will let you use the Orion big block motor, that really makes the car fly.


----------



## jjordan2

Thanks for the replies!!!

Bud,
I have an older Fun wons. Is there still a way to put an Orion big block on there??

Thanks,
JAy


----------



## okracer

*gas powered supercar*

Bud if u let anyone see this car after u build it u will have to sell it you know the saying "IF U BUILD IT THEY WILL COME " i just dont see anyway u could go wrong with a car like this even if u just sell the parts and u have to buy the motor and put it together u cant go wrong put me down for a kit


----------



## Nil

OKracer:

You've got a point. We have a secret mission to the "Works" on Saturday to ferret out the secrets. I hear there are some fellows out toward Toledo that may pay handsomely for them.


----------



## rayhuang

*CORCAR*

For those fortunate enough to race there, I have bad news, CORCAR is now gone!!!

Ray

www.corcar.com


----------



## k1m

*ROAD TRIP!*

Look out Bud! The Fun Wons from Pa. are leaving for BRP World Headquarters tomorrow. If the weather cooperates, we hope to get some track time on Da Track Friday nite after we check in our rooms. If not the Comfort Inn is likely to have little cars running up and down their halls.:lol:


----------



## RAFster

*Re: CORCAR*



rayhuang said:


> *For those fortunate enough to race there, I have bad news, CORCAR is now gone!!!
> 
> Ray
> 
> www.corcar.com *


Well, not exactly gone...we have to take the track down (Saturday) due to the City's orders to Lowe's.
You can read more as it becomes available at CORCAR's website. The thread's URL for this topic is:
http://207.54.175.41/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=general&action=display&num=1022781356

David Martin
RAFster


----------



## MaddMatt

*front plastic clip*

I have SC18's and I am having a blast with them except for one thing: I have broken off the front plastic clip that attaches to the servo and holds the body down. Is there some remedy for this? Anyone know of a bumper or something that will protect it?

I think it is happening when the car hits either another car or the wall (both of which happen often) and the body shifts a little. The part is breaking where it is bent and snaps off pretty clean.

Any help would be great

Madd Matt


----------



## k1m

*From Pa. to Da Track*

Our trip to Da Track (Port Allegany, Pa. to Elyria, Oh. - 250 miles)was a blast! We got to the track Friday around 6:00 after passing through 2 violent rainstorms around Cleveland to find Bud doing some laps on Da Track himself. He welcomed us and invited us to a tour of the BRP factory where all this fun comes from. It was pretty neat to see the stacks of blue fiberglass the chassis are made from and the bins of little tires! We did alittle testing on Da Track with different tires and gears and followed that up with an EXCELLENT crab leg dinner at the local Chinese Buffet. Our rooms at the Comfort Inn were indeed comfortable and convenient.
We set up at Da Track Saturday and did alittle more practicing and was able to meet some of the people who we know online but not in person. Now I can put some faces to the names and they all were very friendly and fun to race with. The Fun Wons from Pa. pretty much made up the B main with Donalbain taking the win and Joy taking 2nd. KSG and I were back in the pack abit but we were in there digging! 
 
2SlowOO: sorry I missed you again!! Bud did a good job on the grill, he can drive AND cook!
Bud: Thanx - you put fun in a box.


----------



## RAFster

*Re: front plastic clip*



MaddMatt said:


> *I have SC18's and I am having a blast with them except for one thing: I have broken off the front plastic clip that attaches to the servo and holds the body down. Is there some remedy for this? Anyone know of a bumper or something that will protect it?
> 
> I think it is happening when the car hits either another car or the wall (both of which happen often) and the body shifts a little. The part is breaking where it is bent and snaps off pretty clean.
> 
> Any help would be great
> 
> Madd Matt *


Contact Bud, He can sell you replacements.

I bought another one so I can fit different 
bodies that need more clearance in front.

As far as the bumper...
You can carpet tape some foam to the servo
body mount to help with the bumps some.
EPP foam (Expanded Polyprolyene ?sp) 
returns to its original shape. It will not
crush as easily. But it Could cause the servo
to pull free. A dense foam bumper should help.

David
RAFster


----------



## Nil

*Re: front plastic clip*

First, a question: How are you holding the clip on? I use servo tape to hold it to the servo, and it always flexes, or even comes off, enough that the clip isn't damaged.

Second, Bud's replacement pack includes both the clip and the rear posts. I just tried putting the rear posts on the screws next to the steering posts that hold the front suspension plate down. The only trick to this is that you have to replace the stock screw with something slightly longer, or take off the nylon nuts. I did the former, so I'm not sure how taking off the nuts will work. You have to cut the posts to length, of course. The ones I was using had already been shortened for a GTP body, so they were too short to use on a T-type stocker with the nuts removed.

After rearranging Da Track Saturday, I'm going to be mounting all my SC18 bodies this way. Seem much tougher than stock.

Nil


----------



## 2slow00

*race 2*

Bud and k1m sorry that I couldn't make the last race. I hope to be there for number 3. Bud are you going to Classic this Sunday? Craig called today and I'm planning on going. I don't think I can get to Shifters on Saturday.


----------



## Guest

All you guys going to shifters, after the race check out the car cruise at Eastlake City Hall after the race. Alot of car will be there.
I'm going to try to be there.


----------



## BudBartos

2slowOO... Yes we are going to Classic sunday! I'm also going to try to get to Shifters.
See Ya sunday :wave:


----------



## RAFster

*CORCAR back and Big Block competition at CORCAR*

CORCAR is back in business. We are setting up the track in Grove City Saturday morning. It is going to be at Star Cinema 8 in Grove City! 2384 Stringtown Road, Grove City OH...
Coming from the north on I71 take Exit 100
(Stringtown Road) make a right off the exit.
The Kmart is on the right side of the road.
Star Cinema is on the same parking lot.

Another bit of news is that Bill has approved the Micros to run the Big Block motor. I guess Bud whooped up on the poor little abused HPI Micro 
too much. We'll see how my Viper bodied SC18 
with Bud's breathed on XP magnet stock motor 
holds up against the big blocks Sunday.
My work has been beyond crazy. 14-15 hour days 
all week. Need time to fix a couple battery packs
and sort out the radio trouble I had at BRP World Headquarters.

David 
RAFster


----------



## Micro_Racer

> Another bit of news is that Bill has approved the Micros to run the Big Block motor. I guess Bud whooped up on the poor little abused HPI Micro


The SC-18 with the XP motor will not keep up with the Big Block. Bud has a Big Block conversion pod you can get! Check out my web site for tips!

:devil:


----------



## BudBartos

No worrys guys those cars will not handle the power of the big block! (Lets say rollover fluffy)
They will just be spending more $$$ I think it's funny those micros were all running mod motors and I know some had the coreless high $ units. 
Thats great that CORCAR is back in action so fast
Hope to see some of you at Classic :wave:


----------



## k1m

*New Novak ESC for minis*

Here's another link to Novak's new ESC called SPY made for 1/18 and 1/24 scale racers:
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/spy/spy.htm
It has reverse with lock out and all the usual Novak features. It's tiny size looks good, but the retail price is $100 have to wait and see what they sell for. 
Here's a pic:
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/spy/spy_fotobox.jpg
They warn it's not for 380 or 540 motors. How about 16d XP motors?


----------



## 2slow00

*race*

Good racing at Classic Hobbies in Akron. We had 7 BRP cars on the concrete road course. Very different from running on asphalt but fun. Bud won as usual with Mariopanelli 2nd and I think Joe Roberto was 3rd. :roll:


----------



## RAFster

*CORCAR track built and not enough Micro racers...*

CORCAR club members turned out in force Saturday to build the track at the new location at Star Cinema in Grove City. It is a slightly sloped (2-3 foot elevation change) and has on average 15 foot lanes. The drivers stand got a coat of white paint too boot!
The asphalt is untreated and it fairly open density, so it will be hard on tires. The surface is very smooth with only one or two dips we need to consider when racing.

I heard a few sedan driver had chunked some foam tires in electric and gas sedan classes.

Very little sugar water was applied today for racing and we had some spots where the darker pavement caused the water to rise as the track baked in the intense heat.

After all the talk of Big Blocks not enough racers showed with Micros to have the class. (minimum of 5)
So, I raced my son's Tamiya TL01 in stock, or I tried to. It really s___ to be me this week, a 65 hour work week in 5 days then radio problems due to interference on a good radio system.
Got home to find the refridgerator is having trouble freezing and cooling.

The radio problems I had racing today I think are related to the crystal set I was using, it wasn't within specs for the Hitec gear. Or, it was the synthesized transmitter another racer was using was not keeping good control on the frequency. I think it is the crystal set. But, I raced with others the rest of the day on frequencies all around me (more than 2 channels away) and never glitched once. 
I changed frequency to the stock setting of 66 and all was well.

BTW, the Hitec Shredder appears to not have sufficient shielding to be located so close to the Novak Atom ESC in the Micro. I'm going to try wrapping it in a Hard Drive AntiStatic Bag to see if that helps at all.
I'm emailing Hitec to ask them about it. They indicated it would have the same performance as the HAS-02 receiver. I have that receiver in my son's car and it is generally fairly glitch resistant if I'm on the box stock crystal set.

David 
RAFster


----------



## marioparnelli

I too had a good time down at Classic's with the SC18's. That track is fast! I owe my second place finish to my decision of trading speed for consistency. In other words, I kept it out of the grass


----------



## pmelchman

*novak (SPY)*

Hello,

will the NOVAK SPY esc run with the BRP motors?

melchman


----------



## BudBartos

pmelchman... I have a call in to Novak and also ordered two of them to try. I hope they will Tyree Phillips runs with a BRP car. Don't think I will be doing any racing until the next race at DA TRACK.
Grizzly>>> Was your son able to try his BRP car on the HT track in Strongsville? Concrete with big expantion joints is not good for little cars


----------



## GRIZZLY-A

Bud

Haven't tried brp car yet.I need to get him some new spur gears.He stripped them out runing in front of our house.I'll have to order some from you,then we will try it

Grizzly


----------



## rayhuang

*BRP vs. Concrete!!*

Bud,

Some good news!!! I made a track here at work on our concrete pad that has expansion joints and Craig Stiwald's BRP car ran over them like they werent even there!!! But, of course if they are really wide or old and cracked-big problems!! 
Ray


----------



## BudBartos

Ray>>> Lets race


----------



## Doorman

*Round 3 Classic Summer Series*

June 23rd is round 3 of the Classic Summer Series.
Are you guy's with BRP cars going to join in the fun again this time?
Hope to see you guy's there. I'd like to see a couple of 10 car heats.
The track gives you alot of room for passing.
Talk to you soon.

Tracy


----------



## BudBartos

Doorman >>> I have to see whats going on sunday!!


----------



## Guest

hey bud,
looking forward to see the sc18 come in. what kind of speed control would you guys recommend? i want something small, but i don't know if i want a micro size like the new SPY or orion since they cann't handle 1/10 size motors. 
schwelliott


----------



## OvalmanPA

*ESC*

Futaba MC230CR


----------



## RAFster

*ESCs to use in Micro that also work in 10th scale*

Well, if you can afford to spend that much...
The Novak Atom is a tiny version of the Cyclone. It works great. Bud has been running one in his car the last I saw. I've been using one as well. Bud let me drive his car at Da Track. His car is super smooth on acceleration and braking. He told me he thought he was using the stock motor setting of the Atom.
With a heat sink you can get some rather radical motor winds with the Atom, without it you can handle mild modifieds and stock motors.
I forget the specs Novak publishes for the Atom.

I got my used from a fellow club member for $60.
I bought a used Cyclone (orange label older model)
for $50 as well. I like Novak ESCs. 

The LRP ESCs are good as well.

David


----------



## BudBartos

NIL where are you??? I looked at the parking lot at the Strongesville HT and it looks like the BRP cars will be able to clear the expansion JUMPS.


----------



## Guest

the atom sounds good. hope i can find one at a good price.thanks


----------



## Nil

BudBartos said:


> *NIL where are you??? I looked at the parking lot at the Strongesville HT.*


I have to make it down there sometime this summer. 

I took a quick look at the CROCAR set up Sunday. I'm surprised the theater is letting them run. They consume nearly half the available parking when racing, if you don't include the adjacent K-Mart lot.

One surprising thing: I saw an HPI in the pits with your Outlaw Wedge body. 

Nil


----------



## Doorman

*Classic Summer Series*

We missed you guys yesterday.
Check out the race results on Cleveland at the Brat.
The Air Show was also in town.
It was also very entertaining.
Any chance of you guys making round 5 on July 7th?
Hope to see you then.
Are you guys going to run at Strongsville next weekend?
Let me know.
We are on our off weekend.

Talk to you soon.
Tracy


----------



## pmelchman

*just got back*

Hello All,
Just got back from my honeymoon. Now I have to move houses, unpack and set up. I'll be busy for a short time. I hope to see you all at the races.

Bud- were you able to try the spy esc from Novak yet?

Melchman


----------



## BudBartos

pelchman>> I just got the spy in today! It is small It still will not be as fast as a novak atom or Quantum and you will only be able to use it in a small car.
I will let all know what it does. Retail is $99.00 so street should be around $60.00
Hope you can make it to the race on July 13th


----------



## 2slow00

July 13th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Who's planning on going to BRP # 3? I'll be there with the hotdogs. I hope we get a big turnout.  Are any of you PA or Mich. guys making the trip? K1m I hope to see this race or the next. Sorry I begged out of the last one but my wife had me doing yard work for her vacation and about killed me. See you all at the BRP world headquarters.:dude:


----------



## BudBartos

2slowoo.. I will be there!!! Chuck may be running also  Is Rich coming??
Guys let us know if your coming we need a Hot Dog count!!


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Ben and I,ll will be there we,re good for six dogs. Also I tried to slow Ben,s car down.


----------



## BudBartos

Don >> Just turn the high speed setting down on the speedo. See you on the 13th:wave:


----------



## Nil

Don:

If you'd like a Spike ESC (has high speed pot), e-mail me and we can make arrangements. I have a couple of extras. I'm dumping them because of the difficulty in adjusting the top end to match the motor, but it should be great to slow thing down.


----------



## marioparnelli

2slow00, Bud...I plan on being there on the 13th. I wouldn't miss your dogs 2slow00.:roll:


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Da Track Race 3*

Count me in! I'm good for a few dogs. See you all at Da Track.

:thumbsup:


----------



## 2slow00

Bud save a rental for Rich. We will be there.


----------



## RAFster

I plan on coming up from Columbus to see if I can have some fun at BRP World Headquarters. 
Count me in for 3 dogs. 
I'm using a different radio so I shouldn't have the glitching problems I had before. It was disappointing to not run in the mains.
I'll run the BRP GTP body, I hope I don't bash it up too much.  I'm definately turning up the steering rates. You need it at Da Track.

David 
RAFster


----------



## pmelchman

*race day...*

Sorry Fellow Racers,

I'm sadly informing you that I and my race team will be unable to attend the race on July 13th. I must work...that weekend AND THE NEXT 3 WEEKENDS!!!! I'm a little upset but life goes on.

BUD-- any verdict on the NOVAK SPY?

Melchman


----------



## BudBartos

I have not tryed the Spy yet TOO HOT!
Hope you can make the Aug. race.


----------



## Guest

*sc18 rocks!*

I recieved and assembled my new sc friday. man, that little thing can fly! i can not believe how it sticks to carpet. the lhs does not carry them, but after lettng it rip throught the store there were a lot of interested people. i think the lhs may be stocking them soon. Great car!


----------



## ChrisHarris

*SC18 help please!*

Just got my first SC18. bought it slightly used and assembled without electronics. I yanked the LRP Runner and JR receiver from my XXT CR (it is awaiting parts anyway...) and put them in. Several questions came to mind immediately.

First, there doesn't seem to be a marking for + or - on the motor. Is there a significant difference, as in is the motor advanced and needs to be wired one way or the other. I put the + on the side with the 'V' with the Parma facing up- that would be on the forward side of the motor.

Second, the truck ran around doing donuts on the kitchen floor for about five seconds and shut off. Hit reverse and it went backwards. Forwards and it went forwards. For about another five seconds. No amount of waiting seemed to matter to get it to go forward again without hitting reverse for a split second. I didn't clock it carefully to see whether this shut-down was exactly repeatable but it keeps happening. I have never had a problem with the radio/receiver/ESC before in various applications so i am guessing it is related to this new beast.

Third (and last!), this came with black foam tires. I had a heck of a time getting it to go straight indoors, except on very low pile carpet. Am I being too heavy handed? Turning down the steering sensitivity helped when I took it out (though I need to repave the driveway now:lol: ) Any tips on tire treatment, alternatives or whatever will be greatly appreciated. Prior to this, I have been strictly 1/10 off-road so all advice greatly appreciated!

Chris


----------



## Nil

Chris:

Positive is marked with red paint. It should be near the word "Parma."

Don't know what to say about the on/off issue. The only thought I have is that you don't mention capacitors. The older motors don't have factory soldered caps. That's a recent improvement. Ooops, yet another one: Does it have the ball diff or solid gear? The diff has a nut inside the left rear wheel to adjust it. If a diff, try a rebuild (careful, the balls are quick to jump out once you remove the wheel. If a solid gear, make sure the set screws are tight.

I've not seen anyone running these with traction compound. Take a look at http://www.brpracing.com/110chassiscomplete.html and http://www.brpracing.com/110chassisbasic.html for the front end. 

The steering trim is adjusted with the collar and set screw on the servo push rod, but you probably figured that out. Also, the capacitors may be the issue, if they aren't there.

Nil


----------



## wazzer

*Da Track*

I won't be making the July 13th race at Da Track. Wifes' birthday, eh. I'll be there in August. Have fun, eat a dog for me. If weather is anything like it is here, you'll be able to cook them dogs without a grill.


----------



## ChrisHarris

Nil,

I looked for the paint, assuming it would be there but didnt find it. I shall look again!

I do have caps on it, the fancy motor magnets and the ball diff. I have already cleaned up the diff a bit as those pesky little balls did TRY to escape while I was looking for the aforementioned red paint!

Other than the fact this puppy doesn't run long enough to get up to top speed it all seems in great shape! What speed it does hit seems pretty nice though!

Thanks for the input! I think I will take it all apart and rebuild it. For whatever mystical reason, sometimes that uncovers gremlins.  Just to make sure all is well. i will also try a different ESC I guess. It's just plain strange to me.


----------



## RAFster

Try pulling the motor out of the chassis and running it outside the car while the electronics are still in the same location. If the motor is
binding and overheating it could stop.
If you can run the motor for about 5 minutes without stopping it could be binding. Sometimes a dirty motor will cause some really wierd stuff to happen.

The cars are fairly small and the tight
quarters can cause some intereference from the
ESC to receiver to be emphasized.

Is your radio equipment AM or FM? FM has better noise rejection.

David


----------



## ChrisHarris

David,

That sounds like a good thing to try! Tight? How about shoehorn tight! I had initially tried velcroing the electronics in place but they were getting pushed by the batteries They never touched the front wheel but it was close.

I'll let you know how it goes. Unfortunately I have to go to work... And all these good toys to play with. *sigh*.

AM. Too cheap to go FM so far. I don't really see how intereference can be the answer though as this was happening at a range of five feet with nothing else on (that I know of). Fresh batteries in the transmitter.

Everybody loves a mystery! Chris


----------



## 2slow00

wasser sorry you can't make the race. It is too hot to do anything but stay in the air and work on the BRP. See you at the last race.


----------



## Guest

*glitchen' brp*

my brp is glitching big time. the arm in the motor is bobing in and out when it runs. i guess it must be arching a lot when this happens. the pinion gear is fairly chewed up from dirt on the street. what should i do? should i shim the arm so it does not move or replace the pinion? how do you get the pinion off?
thanks elliott


----------



## RAFster

Visit your local slot car shop and beg them
to press off and on a replacement pinion.
Or you can buy a pinion tool that will remove
and replace the pinions. They are a press fit.
Ninco makes a pretty good one...
They go for what? $10-15

Sounds like your motor isn't happy, I can't imagine how the motor could get that much play.
But, my motor has 1/16 inch of axial movement.
How does your comm look?
Bud is the expert. 
Sounds to me like it is time to spend $20 or so 
on a new motor...

David
RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

dirtspeedcarz>>> The motors will develop endplay if you get hit hard check that endbell is on tight, you can shim the arm if you like but I run with about .032 endplay. If the pinon is trashed you can cut it off with wire cutters layed in the teeth and it will snap right off. To install a new one support shaft on endbell side on a piece of metal and tap the new pinion down with a small hammer or something!
chrisharris>> Make sure there are three small motor caps on your motor. one from + to can one from - to can and one between + & -. If you bought it used they may not have put them on, all the new motors come with them installed.


----------



## RAFster

*abrasive tracks (hard on tires...)*

Well, it appears the CORCAR track at the Grove City location will be about as hard on tires as Da Track. I ran the SC18 in our 18th scale class today and end result was some tires chunking and a nice set of front cone tires. Nothing quite as bad as the Da Track. I guess I will Goop the sides of the tires and for today's tires (newly installed prior to the race) I will chuck them up in the Dremel or drill press and try to true them up. Then I figure I have little to lose by gooping them to create a belted tire...
I think that was one of the tricks CORCAR racers used when we raced at a Walmart in Hillard that had course/open asphalt like we have at Star Cinema.

Do the Fun Wons tires wear any less?

Gonna be expensive to race if you replace tires every week for 3 heat races and a main.

Thoughts? Comments? 

As far as racing went...It was a fun day. Paul Holonitch dominated all day with his HPI Micro 4WD with a Modified HPI motor. Steve Hartung finished in 2nd in the Main with me closely following for 3rd place. I didn't have enough power for some reason. Steve and Paul could both easily pass me. Paul did a StopNGo in the Pits for a "penalty" when I decided to block on the straight and he scooped me up and dumped me. They were teasing but, he had enough of a lead to afford to do it. It was humiliating for him to do this stop and go ahead of me and me pass him on the pits and then he pulled out and passed me in the next turn 30 feet away. Everyone had a few laughs...
The overheating my motor took at Da Track when the passenger's rear tire bound against the bushing I think took some punch out of the magnets or affected the windings. 

David
RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

Rafster>> You can get the optional inner wheel hubs and then run Micro rubber tires if they seem to be wearing better. Also the long wear that I have made for DA TRACK waers about 3 to 4 times less than stock.
Fun wons tires will wear fast also.
Too bad that surface eats tires I herd some of the TC guys arn't running because of it. 
See you at DA TRACK:wave:


----------



## ChrisHarris

*Inner wheel hubs...*

Bud,
Those adaptors to run micro tires: does that work with the diff in the rear?
Chris


----------



## Guest

Thanks for the replies. I will order a new pinion soon. hopefully that will do the trick. can i buy a replacement spur gear for my diff? also, what kind of mod motors will work with these cars. i have seen an ad for a parma s16d motor with ajustable timing. how are slot car motors identified as far as being mod or whatever they are? I have been running my sc on a TC track- lots of fun! but i would like a little more top end. thanks


----------



## k1m

Bud: We're pretty wrapped up in off road racing here in Pa. right now so I think we'll pass on Da Track next month 

Rafster: You said "hard on" hehehehe!  

ChrisHarris: The HPI adapters work fine with the SC18 diff kit. You have to remove the wheel to adjust the diff and after awhile the wheel doesn't want to stay on unless you follow Bud's tips.

dirtspeedcarz: you can get a 46t spur, but I suggest you stay with the 52t spur and go up on the pinion gear. Get the Nimco gear puller, for $10+ it'll make your life with 16d motors much easier.

Our next BuRP race is July 21st in Kane, Pa. I think the HPI rubber tires will RULE!!

We tore all the carpeting out of our living room today pending replacement. I feel a fierce BuRP race comming on before all that furniture goes back!!

:thumbsup:


----------



## 2slow00

K1m hope you can make the last race.:roll:


----------



## RAFster

*Weather forecast*

You guys see the forecast for Saturday's
weather. It is going to be gorgeous!
High around 83 with partly cloudy skies.

Great day for racing!


----------



## 2slow00

Is anyone racing BRP cars this week?


----------



## RAFster

*Racing BRP cars this week*

2slow00

I plan on seeing if we can put together a 18th scale class at CORCAR's Road Rage III race this weekend (20th & 21st).

I hope to run. 2 days of racing...should be fun if the weather cooperates. Six qualifiers and the main event...
Hoooya!

David
RAFster


----------



## 2slow00

RAFster I can't do a two daer this weekend. I do hope to make it down next month.Kick some HPI butt with your BRP.Good luck, Dick Oettinger


----------



## k1m

*BRP Racing in Pa.*

*This is a quote from the Racer's Edge track forum*
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14798&perpage=20&pagenumber=11

Parkinglot Racing 
You've gotta check out the other side of Racer's Edge summer racing series, Kanefest Sunday July 21 in Kane, Pa. It's going to be an on road blacktop track aprox 50ft X 75ft that you MAY be able to run soft foam carpet tires. If it's going to be hot you might want to pick up a set of rubber tires though. The BuRPS (1/18 scale mini racers) will be there, and I hear there will be at least one HPI micro for them to munch on! And they are hungry! They haven't seen much action since the race at BRP World Headquarters in Elyria, Ohio. 
I was hoping to bring my 1/4 scale R/C Bigfoot, but after overcoming several drive problems, now the 1/4 scale steering servo turns right, but when I turn left it doesn't move and it sounds like KSG's EMaxx! Speaking of: What an Elephant race, huh? Man, we were trunk to tail the whole race, and KSG grabbed the win in the last turn! 
And He Didn't Break!!! Look at it this way John, it's nearly 1/2 domestic by now. 
Scooby: Once you get your shirt, you can get your name on it here: http://home.adelphia.net/~hucker/index.html


----------



## k1m

*Kanefest BRP Regional Results*

A hot but beautiful day to race saw 11 BuRP racers at this little town's event. They have lots of activites, games, and food booths, and of course the R/C race. It was good to run our mini racers again!
*Results: Racers Edge R/C Racing & Hobbies - JULY 21, 2002 * 
-- BuRP - A MAIN -- 
pos car laps time name id 
1 1 48 5:02.33 Chris Burrows 5 
2 5 47 5:01.01 Kim Fortner 16 
3 6 47 5:04.27 Joy Fortner 17 
4 4 47 5:05.74 Mike Asel 11 
5 3 46 5:01.05 Don Weimer 13 
6 2 45 5:03.46 Rick Morgan 2 

-- BuRP - B MAIN -- 
pos car laps time name id 
1 0 40 5:01.12 John Rezzelle 1 
2 1 40 5:06.55 Ben Asel 10 
3 8 35 5:02.30 Laura Burrows 7 
4 9 29 5:03.06 Barb Morgan 3 
5 6 25 3:56.67 Mark LeKanka 4


----------



## RAFster

*CORCAR Road Rage & tires*

CORCAR's Road Rage III was some hot fun.
We had eight 18th scale racers join us.
Steve Hartung and I campaigned our BRP Super Car 18s against the HPI Micros.

I was using the Long Wear Green Dot Fronts and the stock kit (Green?) rears. Saturday I had a little too much steering beginning to cause me some trouble but I managed. I could not break the 14 lap wall all day. Leaders were turning 16 laps most of the time. We were using Qual Points for qualifying orders so my consistent 14 laps put me in 3rd place qualifying. Just not driving clean enough...need more practice and some tutoring I guess. Sunday dawned very hot and the Dodge Viper without the rear wing just wasn't working and the front end bite was so high the rear was sliding in corner and I ended up having trouble rolling (barrel roll) the car in the corner. (It wasn't a traction roll with the outside lifting.)

Steve Hartung bought the extra set of Green Dot Long Wears from me Saturday before the races began and he told me Sunday he could not handle them and had to take them off. I agree so far they don't work for our track at Star Cinemas. 
I'm going to build up the new BuRP and see if the Green LW front and rear works or if it was the LW Green front has more bite than the std foam Green rear and that was causing the problems.

So, you may want to bring some harder front tires to run. I know I'll be ordering some from Bud...

Here's the results. 
ROAD RAGE III - JULY 20 & 21, 2002

-- HPI MICRO MOD - A MAIN --
pos car laps time name id avg.mph
1 1 18 5:03.35 PAUL HOLONITCH 43 163.44
2 2 16 5:05.27 STEVE HARTUNG 45 144.37
3 4 15 5:00.86 BILL STEVENSON 66 137.33
4 7 15 5:16.35 CHARLES WHITE 69 130.60
5 5 15 5:18.08 MATT COIA 64 129.89
6 6 12 5:19.30 REBEKAH RICHARDS 28 103.51
7 3 11 5:01.96 DAVID MARTIN 63 100.34
8 8 9 5:27.24 JOHN PAUL RICHARDS 29 75.75

BTW, Paul Holonitch borrowed Bill Stevenson's Orion Big Block (Speed 300) to thrash the field of racers. He was already very quick, generally one lap up.
I was rolling my car in 2 or 3 turns so I slowed down a lot. 
I should have thrown the Orange standard tires on the front of the car...

David
RAFster


----------



## pmelchman

*SPY...*

Hello Racers  

Bud...Have you had a chance to run the Novak SPY yet?

:thumbsup: 

Take Care

Melchman


----------



## RAFster

*SPY...*

Bud wrote a bit about it under the thread "new novak ESC"

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=19145


He ran the ESC at Da Track's last event.

David 
RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

All>>> Good to see you all are having fun racing this summer. The last race at BRP's Da Track was a good one. We hope to have a record crowd at the final event on Aug 17th.
We are also going to have a swap meet. And a corn roast to go with 2sloww00's killer hot dogs. We will be giving out the awards and will have prizes also. Hope you all can make it :wave:


----------



## Nil

Ah, another crack at the oval. Fewer variables for a beginner to worry about.

Thanks for the series, Bud.


----------



## BudBartos

Hey all BRP racers go to new thread for details on final BRP race on Aug. 17th:wave:


----------



## 2slow00

TangTester are you going to Columbus next week?


----------



## TangTester

hey 2slow00 and Bud,

I wish I could go but I have too many things I have to get done. It is not leaving me much time to do anything else. I will be at the last race. And ready to go fast!!!!!
Pat


----------



## 2slow00

TangTester too bad you can't make the road trip. We are stopping for wings on the way home.You could drive down here and ride with us if you don't want to drive to Columbus.Your car didn't run as good as it did earlier in the year, maybe you need new cells.(or stop charging at 5 amps) I hope you are faster at the next race.


----------



## BudBartos

Hey we had a good time at CORCAR but it was HOTTTT! The BRP's again proved the best with Rich O. 2slow00's son setting a new track record and TQ. Bud ( Thats Me ) took the A main with Don S. second after Rich had a Big block motor blow. Highest Big $$$ Micro was 3rd almost one lap down.
Later :wave:


----------



## 2slow00

K1m and all the PA. guys sorry to hear you can't make the final race at Da Track. Hope we can make over to your area next summer.It was nice meeting DonaldBane and Kanesurfguru.


----------



## k1m

*2slowoo*

Yeah, me too! We had a great time in June - sorry we never got to meet. If one of your hotdogs rolls off on the ground, you can say that one was mine! Good luck at the race too. Hope you guys have good weather.


----------



## 2slow00

Looking ify for the big race. Hope we get it in . I don't want to bring these hot dogs back home.


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Last BRP Summer Race*

It was a great series! Good weather, great food, and awsome racing! Thank you Bud and all others who helped make the series so much fun. Congrats to Rich, Sporty, and Don! 

Can't wait for the indoor series to start! 

Bud...let us know the dates and times of the Strongsville races.

:thumbsup:


----------



## Nil

*PICTURES*

Photos from the race:

http://my.core.com/~spainnile/BRP_Worlds/index.htm


----------



## 2slow00

Nil great job with the pictures.:thumbsup:


----------



## Nil

2slow00 said:


> *Nil great job with the pictures. *


Just a little pay back for the dogs.


----------



## Nil

*New Series*

At the last BRP Da Track race, Bud announced that he would be running another winter series at the Brat. Points races are: 

October 13 & 27 
November 3 & 10 
December 8 & 22 
January 5 & 19 
February 23 
March 9 

Rules are similar to last year except front wheel bearings are allowed and a 5/8" spoiler can be added.

The Brat races are run by NORCAR

Now, what will it take to get the Pennsylvania guys here?


----------



## RAFster

The NORCAR site links to last year's rules.
It said no ball bearings and it also says no wings...does this mean the Corvette and SAL7 can't run a rear wing? Do they run a spoiler instead? Guess I better look at this year's flyer I picked up Saturday at the races.

AA 6 cell...NiCd or NiMH or racer's choice? Presuming NiMH 6 cell could be used...testing shows at the 5 minute mark the NiMH are providing more power than
a set of Nicads. FWIW

David 
RAFster


----------



## Guest

*Just Starting w/BRP*

I've been out of RC racing for about 10 years or so, but these BRP cars really look fun. I'm planning on purchasing 1... (hell, maybe even 2 or more)... and get some small races going. But first a few questions... How fast do these cars go (MPH) on 4 cells? I think 6 cells might be a little too fast for my track area (16x16). Also, any suggestions on what radio, servo, and ESC I should use? I generally prefer Futaba products and was thinking a Magnum JR 2PCKA, but I would like some info from other "racers". Thanks in advance,

helk


----------



## Guest

*Lap Counters*

Another question...What lap counting system and software are you guys using for your races? Thanks again,

helk


----------



## RAFster

Instead of 4 cells I would say to go with 5 cells. For a large part the speed will be determined by what your trigger finger is doing...

The cars are much quicker with 6 cells and has generally been what most folks end up racing. I would suggest you buy one of the Futaba combos that has the MC230CR electronic speed control. It is a highly favored ESC by the SC18 racers for it's performance, price, and size. Typically you should get something you can use in a 1/10 scale car if you decide to use it in something else later. The MC230CR can be used with stock motors. 
Tower carries the Magnum Junior with this ESC for $99.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXASX8**&P=7
The cars are tons of fun and affordable when compared to the kind of money most people are putting into the HPI Micro.

David
RAFster


----------



## RAFster

*Re: Lap Counters*



helk0 said:


> *Another question...What lap counting system and software are you guys using for your races? Thanks again,
> 
> helk *


Most clubs use an AMB transponder system with various software packages being used.
The older system was a AMB20 system and I don't know what they call the new transponder system. CORCAR club just upgraded their system this summer. They had been saving race proceeds for about 18 months to order the 20 transponders needed to maintain the smooth flow of racing.

I've seen several different optical scoring systems developed and out there on the internet. Some use a flag that rides at a predetermined height to break a beam. 

David
RAFster


----------



## Nil

RAFster said:


> *The NORCAR site links to last year's rules.*


Bud will be getting this year's info to Alan to update the rules on the NORCAR site.


----------



## Nil

RAFster said:


> *The NORCAR site links to last year's rules.*


The new rules and schedule are posted now at NORCAR.


----------



## BudBartos

Racing at hobby town in Strongsville on Aug 25! A group of BRP racers will test out the concrete hope we don't fly over the expansion joints too much. Try to come out and we will put on a show


----------



## Nil

Does anyone know how late the races run at Strongsville? I have a commitment Sunday evening.

Thanks


----------



## GRIZZLY-A

*Strongsville times*

Nil,
We have been ending between 4 and 5 depending on how many people show up.Hope to see you there.We've been averaging 23 to 30 racers.


----------



## 2slow00

Marioparnelli and I will be at Stongsville on Sunday to race the BRP SC18 cars. Who else is coming?


----------



## Donald Deutsch

I'll be there, but I think i'll leave my grandson home. I am saving him for our first race in Sept. :wave:


----------



## 2slow00

Don do they have power or will we need the generators?


----------



## BudBartos

Dick>>> They have no power!


----------



## 2slow00

Thanks Bud, did you get an address?


----------



## Nil

2slow00

From akron take 77 north to Rt 18 west.Get on 71 north to Rt. 82,go left or west.

OR

I-77 north all the way to I-480, then I-71 south. If you don't mind paying toll, I-80 (Ohio Turnpike) would probably be the quickest. SR 82 is the first exit south of the Turnpike on I-71. Then right or west on 82.


You will pass Southpark mall on your left.Take Rt 82 to Pearl Rd.(Rt 42).Take a left.

Hobbytown will be on your left about a 1/2 mile down. It's in a plaza.


----------



## 2slow00

Thanks Nil, are you guys racing?


----------



## Nil

I hope to, but after this week at work, two days of racing may be too much. Wil has already said he won't.


----------



## Micro_Racer

*Strongsville Race*

I will be at the race!!!! 
2 of my friends are going to come as well. One of them has all ready got and put togther his SC-18! :thumbsup: 

I have finnaly been able to buy the TRC HPI soft foam tires. I hop to have them next week. I will let you guys know how they work out.


----------



## MaddMatt

*Transformation*

Hey everyone!

I have a couple of SC18's and absolutely love them. I have two questions for having a little more fun with them

1> Does anyone know how I could get bigger tires to make it look more "Monster-truck'ish" ?

2> Does Parma make slower motors so my kids can use them without the damage they currently dish out? I tried turning down the speed control but it is either too fast or so slow it won't back up.

Thanks!

Madd Matt


----------



## Donald Deutsch

check Bud's fun one tires they are about the largest tires you can run on his car. He has a system to put them on the new car.


----------



## Nil

Matt:

Try using a four cell pack.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Matt,

Try different gearing to slow the motor.


----------



## RAFster

Is there danger of overheating the motor if you gear that way? If he has the stock ball diff then a 46T spur is installed. The stock gearing is a 9T/46T or a final drive of 5.11:1
The 8T pinion give a final drive of 5.75:1
The 7T pinion will give a final drive of 6.57:1
We typically run a 52T:9T combination on short tight tracks (5.77:1) so to see a change you would want to go to the 7T pinion to slow the car significantly. Monitor the motor temps when running a 46T:7T combination. If it gets too hot to touch you need to back off on the run time.

I think the better solution initial solution was suggested by Nil is to cut them down to 4 cells.

I'm curious...What are they breaking on the car?

The Fun Wons gearing is different than the SC18. 

Where do you guys get other pinions? What pitch is the pinion gears/spur gears? 32 pitch?

Thanks!

David 
RAFster


----------



## RAFster

*HS81MG micro servo dislodging...*

As many have discovered it is sometimes
difficult to keep the Hitec HS81MG servo attached to the chassis. Steve Hartung's solution was a strap across the servo screwing down on the front chassis plate nuts. 

The brass I chose was too thin and ripped out. I did something a little different in the repair. I took a pair of old brushes with eyelets and soldered a piece of wire between the eyelets after removing the brushes to make it the proper length to span the servo to the front plate nuts. I put a shim of 060 plastic on the chassis to provide proper clearance for the servo saver. The eyelet ends attach below the nuts that attach the front end plate. 
The cause of the servo being knocked loose is that the front body mount is attached to the servo...
Smack the pipes hard and you are gonna rip the servo free of the tape be it Bud's or Bolinks...

Ultimate solution is to not run into the pipes eliminating the cause...

If you got real desparate you could glue the servo to the chassis plate with epoxy but you destroy the servo you better be able to service it with it attached...or buy a replacement front end plate. 

David
RAFster


----------



## 2slow00

RAFster we got our 7 and 8 tooth pinions at one of the local slot car tracks. I'm not sure of the pitch.


----------



## BudBartos

MadMatt>> Has a rental track so he wants the cars to be SLOWWW! 
Sept 29th is out first indoor race in Cleveland I can't wait


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Hey BUD are we going to any other races before Brat?


----------



## k1m

*BRP Racing in Pa.*

The annual Glass Festival in Port Allegany, Pa will be held on Sept 21 with R/C racing beginning at 1:00pm on the Maple St. side of the town square. Included will be the ever popular BuRP class and we're looking forward to running the mini racers again. I've been racing my EMaxx all summer - nothing like going from one extreme to another!

MaddMatt: For rentals, I say try the 4 or 5 cell battery packs to get the max speed you want them to run at. Some radios have adjustments (ATV) that you can limit the throttle, thats what I use to introduce new racers to R/C until they get the feel of it.

Fun Won tire/wheels give the SC18 the monster look. You'll need to replace the SC18 front beam (blue piece that goes across chassis in front that kingpins bolt to) with a Fun Won front beam and the Fun Won rear hubs. I do suggest you lower the pinion gear to 7t(Bud sells them too)because of the larger wheels. You'll have to raise your body mounts and/or trim the wheel wells also. You'll like the way it looks AND handles!

RAFster: 52/7 is what I run with the Fun Won and the motor is just warm after 5 min racing. For your mini servo, try Shoe Goo. You can peel it off if you have to, but it holds good. Also, I made a 1/2" X 3/4" 90 deg piece of lexan - sort of a "clip" that mounts on top of servo to front body mount. It adds alittle more strength since I also run a foam bumper gooed to the front of my body mount. So far its holding fine and the foam bumper underneath really saves the front of the body and wheel wells.


----------



## BudBartos

Don >>> I don't think so! Racing the Honda some. It's pretty fun


----------



## Guest

Hey guys,just got my SC yesterday and was wondering if anyone had a good(or great) setup for a smooth,high bite asphalt track?Any help would be greatly appreciated.Also,i almost forgot,Bud,my SC was missing the "B" parts bag with the front body mount,etc.Also,my GTP body i ordered looks like when it was in the molding process the very back left corner up near the spoiler received just a small amount of lexan(trying to desribe this the best i can)and it actually has a hole in the body cause the lexan is so thin back there and the left side of the car looks like someone took a pair of scissors and cut a piece of the body out almost close to where the the thinned piece of body is(am i making any sence?? lol).What can i do about getting this stuff back to you and receiving a replacement?Also,sorry to be such a bother,do you offer ball bearings for this car?Thanks Bud!!


----------



## BudBartos

Kartrun>>> I emailed you on the bad body and missing bag, Sorry!!! The best setup would be stock only thing to change would be the front tires to #380 orange. Setup the rest per instructions and setup sheet.


----------



## RAFster

The GTP bodies are really stretching the 0.030 Lexan fairly thin up high on the body's rear fins. Generally it can be trimmed to be hardly noticeable since it is the area cut out and the shape of the rear coming up can be cut to make it undetectable. A very thin place will all but disappear if you use the solvent based lexan paint. (The paint will melt the thin area a bit.) My first GTP body had this thinning. The second one I bought did not.

BTW, you know you will need to use a micro sized servo for the steering servo on the
GTP body don't you? The HS81MG will work but you'll want to fabricate a strap to help hold it down. Simply not enough surface area to keep from getting popped free if you happen to smack the barriers from time to time. If you are good enough driver to never do this, then don't worry.

David
RAFster


----------



## Nil

RAFster's mention of the HS81MG may have left a point implied that needs to be explicit, IMHO. The "MG" means metal gears. If you try to run plastic gears in a micro servo, you will most likely tear them up, even with a servo saver (anyone want a HS81BB with stripped gears, cheap?). The metal gear unit will take a huge amount of punishment, however. 

BTW, that's by Hi-Tech, and is probably the cheapest metal gear micro servo available.


----------



## OvalmanPA

How do you guys tear up servos so much?? Is this just in the micro servos or what? I have two SC18 Fun Wons. One is driven by me and the other my Mother. I have Futaba S148 servos in each of them with *NO* servo saver and have had no gear problems (as he knocks on wood!). Let me tell ya Ma aint exactly easy on the little car either.


----------



## RAFster

I've blown one servo in a SC18 and it was a Hitec HS-300, equivalent servo to the Futaba 148. At top speed I blundered and hit the corner pipes with the right front tire. (Cutting the corner a little too close.) As a result the force was enough to break teeth off the final gear set.

Bud doesn't break servos, he rarely hits the pipes. Others of us are not so skilled. The C main is often a messy sight. ;D

I was not running a servo saver when I did this damage. Had I ran one it probably would not have been damaged by the blow. The gear set in the HS81 and HS81MG has very tiny teeth. The normal nylon HS81 gears can be broken. I've heard of the HPI Micro guys going through servos in a hurry, that and 5 minute life span on the stock steering knuckles.

RAFster
David


----------



## Nil

OvalmanPA said:


> *How do you guys tear up servos so much?? Is this just in the micro servos or what? *


By my observations, yes, it is the micro servo, unless you get the metal gear set. I've only used them with Kimbrough servo savers, so I don't know if the metal gear servo is as tough as a standard full size. But, I've not torn up an HS81*MG*, and I use my car as a wall detector. I have to speak highly of this servo; I use it on an oval buggy, too.

By the way, Bud now recommends a servo saver even with the full size servo.


----------



## Nil

*Uh, Oh, More Competition for Bud*

Hank reports on a new 1/18 by Bolink:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27687&perpage=20&pagenumber=1

Down near the bottom of the page. Seems to look like Bud's old design some.

The dragster does look interesting.


----------



## ChrisHarris

*7 cells for chuckles?*

Just curious here. Can the BRP's motor take a 7 cell pack? Just tried one in my 1/10 and was blown away by the speed improvement. Obviously couldn't run a 7 in a race but just for sheer speed, would it work?

Chris


----------



## RAFster

*7-cells in a SC18*

Much will depend on your speed control and how you gear it. Odds are it would need a different gearing from 6 cell. You will burn through more Amps with the additional cell and the batteries and motor will get much hotter. Don't plan on the motor lasting a long life running 7 cells.

While the motors in the normal use, slot cars, run on 12V they are accustomed to pushing very light weight cars at that voltage. Also consider, what makes a fast slot car motor doesn't make a fast SC18 motor. Having said that, I would bet the motor can handle it. If you have a fuse protected ESC and run a test and after a couple minutes of running check the motor and batteries. If they are getting too hot you better change the gearing. The other thing to consider is track type. If you are running a tight track the current seen will be higher and you will be more likely to torch the motor. A longer track won't be as brutal on the batteries.
As you add cells to a battery pack the run-time goes down and the current draw goes up.

Bolink's new Drag car (Micro sized) uses the SC18's motor so consider that they will probably use 7-8 cell packs...or higher. Drag racers don't plan on long lives for their motors. 

David
RAFster


----------



## Nil

*Re: 7 cells for chuckles?*



ChrisHarris said:


> *Can the BRP's motor take a 7 cell pack?*


I think if you dig through the old posts, you will find one where a fellow fried his 16-D using seven cells. I'd bet it could take it if properly geared, but I would be very careful. 

I've found that the motors get HOT on a tight road course, but stay cool on a large, banked oval, which is proof of what RAFster said. These were both using the stock gearing.

On the other hand, replacement motors are not extremely expensive. However it comes out, let us know.


----------



## ChrisHarris

*that's sort of what I expected*

I was thinking of it more for playing against my 10 year old. right now my BRP is just a bit slower than his aging XXTCR with a stock motor. It would be so much fun to be able to smoke him rather than simply driving cirles around him! He takes way too much pleasure using my BRP as a speed bump!

Don't think it is worth killing the motor for. The ESC should be fine as it is an LRP Runner right now and shouldn't have a problem with the current.

I'll let you all know if I get silly! Thanx


----------



## Greg Anthony

*CRL????*

Who is planning on running the CRL series this year? Bud, Hank??? anyone else If you don't know what teh series is, please refer to the Onroad section of this forum and look for "Carpet Racing League"

And Bud, rest assured that this will not be an "unlimited" class this year :thumbsup: , there will be rules, like width, wheelbase, 6-cell only, only s-16d's, no speed 300's...


----------



## RAFster

*Competition for Micro and SC18 review coming*

FYI...
As usual I was browsing some of the Micro web sites and over at Your Micro they had a thread I was reading which someone was grousing that someone needed to create some competition for the HPI Micro. Naturally, I could not let that one lie around untouched...    
Ya gotta spread the word there are other (better) solutions out there... 
So, I replied that if they didn't mind a 2WD versus 4WD they need look no further than the BRP Super Car 18. The webmaster of yourmicro had replied that we should stay tuned because a review of the BRP SC18 is forthcoming and they will be having an SC18 giveaway. 
I'll try to keep tabs on it and post a note to direct your attention to it. 

BTW, the RAD bodies for the Ferrari 360 Modena and Mercedes CLK GTR are compatible with the SC18.

David
RAFster


----------



## wazzer

*Re: CRL????*



Greg Anthony said:


> *Who is planning on running the CRL series this year? Bud, Hank??? anyone else If you don't know what teh series is, please refer to the Onroad section of this forum and look for "Carpet Racing League"
> 
> And Bud, rest assured that this will not be an "unlimited" class this year :thumbsup: , there will be rules, like width, wheelbase, 6-cell only, only s-16d's, no speed 300's... *


Greg, I plan on making as many as I can weather permiting. I ran Bud's series this summer and it was a blast.


----------



## Guest

Bud,
I received my replacement prts today by UPS and i have to say thank you so much for the awesome service.I know which micros i will run from here on out


----------



## Guest

SC18 Fun Won, DA Bug for sell at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1767225926&rd=1. It is brand new and has never been used. Great chance
to pick of a new car at a great price.


----------



## RAFster

It was until you posted it here.   :wave: Now everybody knows!

I saw that one last night. 
Wanna see something more shocking then check out the amount one went for on
9/1. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1761606162

$10.50... Poor seller

David
RAFster


----------



## Guest

I have had her since this past Christmas. My wife bought it for
me and I put it together Xmas day. I haven't touched it since. I know that most people haven't even heard of the BRP
cars so I was trying to draw some attention to it.


----------



## Nil

*Warning*

*Someone co-opted Mr Clean's URL link in his post.* Below is the corrected link.



Mr Clean said:


> *SC18 Fun Won, DA Bug for sell at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1767225926&rd=1. It is brand new and has never been used. Great chance
> to pick of a new car at a great price. *


Mr. Clean:

If you did not add the URL= to your post, you should report it to Hankster since this would be a breach of his security.


----------



## Tc3manus

Hi Bud or anyone 

I just put XP magnets in both my wife's and my car motors today , I followed the instructions but both motors ran in reverse when I was done. Could the magnets have been marked wrong or was this suposed to happen? Thank You Bill


----------



## Guest

*Re: Warning*



Nil said:


> *Someone co-opted Mr Clean's URL link in his post. Below is the corrected link.
> 
> Mr. Clean:
> 
> If you did not add the URL= to your post, you should report it to Hankster since this would be a breach of his security. *


Are you saying that someone went in and edited my post? I noticed that the link in my original post is no longer working.

Anyhow, this is the corrected link to the car as stated above. Hmm...why would someone want to mess with my link?

Brp sc18


----------



## Guest

Hello Mr. Clean. You live in NC huh?? I'm from Durham by the way. If you are looking for a great place to race you should check out our new track located off of 70. We race everything from micro to 1/8th nitro onroad.You can check out the track at www.thercspeedway.com
ENJOY!!


----------



## Guest

Forgot to mention that our track is hosting the NC state electric and nitro onroad championships(ROAR rules apply) October 5-6 2002.For more info just click on state race on the tracks website.Be sure to spread the word.


----------



## Nil

Tc3manus said:


> *I just put XP magnets but both motors ran in reverse when I was done. Could the magnets have been marked wrong or was this suposed to happen? Thank You Bill *


They were either marked wrong or you misread the directions (not an insult; they could be clearer). Take 'em back apart and reverse the magnets. "Backward" magnets make DC motors run in reverse.


----------



## Nil

*Re: Re: Warning*



Mr Clean said:


> *Are you saying that someone went in and edited my post? . . . Hmm...why would someone want to mess with my link?*


That's exactly what I'm saying, and why I'm a little concerned. Either someone "hacked" your password or they penetrated the board's security. Obviously, the latter worries me more. 

In either case, Hankster should know about it. I left it up to you since you could have done it yourself.

Why? Who knows? Practice for bigger and better things? Build up traffic for a favorite site?


----------



## BudBartos

Guys the magnet with the white mark goes on the side with the arrow! If you put it on the side with the white stock mag it is wrong, the motors are messed up. If you got them in wrong just swap the motor leads if you don't want to take them apart again.
Sorry but even Paul at Parma was surprized to see that the mags in the stock motors were in wrong.


----------



## RAFster

Is the Super 16D timed? If so, and the magnets reversed won't the timing be the opposite of "normal" 
So if it had 27 degrees of advance it will then have 27 degrees of retard when the magnets are reversed. If it is a neutral timed motor then it wouldn't matter. 
Does it work that way?

Thanks!

David


----------



## Nil

RAFster: As long as the car is going the right direction, the motor has the intended rotation. Which way you apply the current won't matter.


----------



## Larry

*XP Magnets*

Hello,
When I installed the XP magnets in my motor they would not fit per the instructions. The only way they would fit is with the white marked magnet on the side opposite the arrow. When I ran the motor it was turning in the wrong direction, so I reversed the wires and have had no problems with it. I must say however that once you try the Speed 300, you will never want to run the 16D motor again. The Speed 300 in the SC 18 is absolutely AWESOME!!! But not for a short track.

Thanks,
Larry


----------



## RAFster

*timing on motors - is the SC18 timed?*

Actually it will affect the top RPM of the motor. The speed 400 motors are designed with neutral timing I think. Of very mild timing. To operate in a gearbox they are wired backwards and this causes the motor to not have top speed. The current draw and speed of a motor are increased to a certain point when the timing is adjusted. The more timing the motor has the faster and generally the shorter the life. 
Roar specifies what the limit is for timing on a Stock motor. 
A neutral timed motor will have nearly equal rpm figures whether it is run forward or reverse.

The timing from what I understand is determined by the brush contact with the commutator in relation to the magnets.

This article applies to adjustable timing motors. 
http://www.ezonemag.com/articles/1996/time.shtml

David
RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

Rafster>> If mags in wrong just switch the motor leads! As long as motor is turning the right way it will not change timing.


----------



## Greg Anthony

unless your last name is Rieley and you "improved" the motor that is....


----------



## Greg Anthony

for those of you who don't know the Rieley's like me and Bud do, they are great people, and the whole CRL got a little out of hand last year with testing a bunch of different motors, not only them, but alot of US. If any one of you think I was accusing them of anything, feel free to come on over to my pit any time and we will "discus" your misunderstanding.


----------



## SecretSquirrel

*"improved"*

Anthony,

As I recall, they improved the CAR, not the motor :lol: 

Regards,
SS


----------



## Nil

Greg Anthony said:


> *If any one of you think I was accusing them of anything*


Well, it sounded to me like you were implying they messed up a perfectly good car. One of these days, I hope to get up there to discuss your modifications, though. Or maybe you could make it to the Brat? Or maybe, just maybe, the CRL can make it to Cleveland?

I really do want to see a Reily, the car, that is. They've become almost a legend down here.


----------



## RAFster

*SC18 motor in a geared airplane drive*

I wonder how the SC18 motor, Super 16D, would do in an airplane swinging a prop in a gear drive?

With a lightweight airframe and 7 cell or 8 cell 500AR nicads it might do quite nicely.

Sounds like an interesting winter project.

David


----------



## SecretSquirrel

*Seeing a Reilly*

You really arent missing much. Oh wait you said the car.  

The car is sweet. Adjustable camber, caster, and toe. Carbon Fiber chassis. The car design is being refined in anticipation of a production run this fall.

I know Keith Hamilton is planning on banning Speed 300's from the CRL. When they ran them at a Toledo race, Jim Reilly ran fast enough to put his 1/18 R-1 in the Touring Car A main. That is cool.

Regards,
SS

Pining away for an R-1 

:devil:


----------



## Micro_Racer

*This weekend*

Is anyone racing this weekend? (Sept. 21, 22)


----------



## RAFster

*Racing 9/21 - 9/22*

Grove City is have the Arts In the Alley festival and invited CORCAR to host a 2 day race again. Last year we hosted the HPI Challenge race. This year the trophy race is open to all makes and is 3 rounds of qualifying Saturday and 2 rounds on Sunday with the mains following.
Hal Johnson is organizing the race. There are details in the thread on the CORCAR forums. http://www.corcar.com

They expect to 4WD Electric Stock and Modified Touring Car, 4WD Nitro Touring Car in stock and modified, Micro (HPI RS4 Micro and BRP SC18), Novice Electric, and possibly Mini Cooper electric (Chameleon 19T single spec mod motor). The Mini Cooper class may see the Tamiya Mini (FWD) pitted against the HPI RS4 Mini (4WD).

They are also hosting a Celebrity Race to
start things off with Grove City politicans, fire, police, emt, etc. competing in Nitro 4WD Touring. Hal has painted up IROC themed Audi TT bodies for the event. The celebrities are going to be coached by racers and will be verbally assisted and pit the cars for them. 
Rumor has it that the Governor may pay the race a visit.

Entry fee for the two day event is $15 per class.

David
RAFster


----------



## k1m

*BRP Racing in N.W. Pa.*



k1m said:


> *The annual Glass Festival in Port Allegany, Pa will be held on Sept 21 with R/C racing beginning at 1:00pm on the Maple St. side of the town square. Included will be the ever popular BuRP class and we're looking forward to running the mini racers again.
> *


Just a reminder in case anyone feels like a "Road trip". The street we usually race on was recently blacktopped so it's nice and smooth. I'm gonna give the tires we ran at "Da Track" a try on my SC18 and I may be loaning out Da Wedge. Since they haven't been run much this summer, I cycled out my BRP packs last night - some of the older ones aren't looking so good. They're NIMH and I stored them dicharged down to .90V/cell, I'm thinking maybe I should have stored them fully charged. I'll decide for sure after a few more cycles.


----------



## RAFster

*NiMH storage*

K1M, 

Everything I've read on the NiMH says to 
never dead short them and always store the
with a minimum of 1/3 charge. More the better from what I hear. 
I hope they recover for you.

RAFster
David


----------



## GiantScale

*16D or 300?*

Iv been running the equivalent of the 16D for a few seasons. Actually Iv gone through about 5 motors on those years. 

We run on a very short track (about 25 to 30' corner to corner) and I dominate because no one runs this expensive motor. 

Its a hand built aluminum pan car with "full" ball bearings, t plate tweak adjustment, with custom rear tires 2" wide to handle the power.You can puch it, and it wont spin the tires. The only thing stock is the diff. , hubs , & front end. It flies!

Im wondering if the speed 300 would be better. Does it spin the car out if you nail the throttle? It MUST with stock width wheels. anyone tried the 280 with removable brushes? Iv heard its just as fast as a 300 but with the removable brushes & a flat spot to sit lower in the rear pod.. You can see it at hobbylobby.com

It must be allot heavier also. Does it have the same shaft dia. as the 16D motors?

Might be time to build a new rear pod for one of these motors.

BTW.. I gave up searching for "fish foam" that the slot car guys use on there rear wheels. It stinks like fish, but is softer & grips better than ANY foam I have seen. Anyone know where to get?

cya

Mike


----------



## RAFster

From Hobby Lobby's website
(http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed280.htm)


Speed 280 GR6328 12W 6V 14.2k no load rpm 8.0k load rpm 6x4 prop size 4A 3oz. thrust 1.25"L 15/16"D 2.0mm shaft 1.5 oz. wt
Uses: Small boats. planes under 10 oz and 150 sq.in. wing

Speed 300 GR3306 40W 6V 31.0k rpm noload 19.5k rpm load 5x2 prop 11A 8oz thrust 1.25" L 15/16" D 2.0mm shaft 1.8 oz. wt.
Uses: Planes under 20 oz and 200 sq. in. wing area

SI2010 Acro Speed 280BB Motor 6V $37.80:
has Ballbearings, external brush connections. More power than SI2001. rpm/v: 4000, resistance: 340mohms from our not quite trustworthy measurements. Good with 4.5:1 or 5:1 gears, 9x6 slowflyer prop. With 9x6 prop is draws 8.5 Amps and gives 5500 prop rpm with 5:1 gearbox.
(This is the Simprop Acro Speed 280BB)

SI2001 Power Speed 300 Motor 6V ... $15.20: 
Rpm/v: 5554, resistance: 292mohms from our not quite trustworthy measurements. 24.2mm diameter: 0.2mm larger diameter than 280. You can install it into 280 gearboxes but you will have to slightly enlarge the motor holder to make it fit. This motor gives much stronger performance than our GR6328 Speed 280 motor, with higher current flows. Good with 4.5:1 or 5:1 gears, 8x6 slowflyer prop. With 8x6 prop it draws 8 Amps and gives 5600 prop rpm with 5:1 gearbox.
(This is the Simprop Speed 300)

Given that the 8x5 or 9x6 prop will
have more resistance than a set of wheels in a 18 ounce car will make the rpm figures higher.

So you are referring to the $$ 280BB, not the 300 by either Graupner or Simprop.
(or the Graupner 280)

They don't provide many details on the specs for the 280BB motor.

David
RAFster


----------



## GiantScale

SI2010 Acro Speed 280BB Motor 6V $37.80: 
has Ballbearings, external brush connections. More power than SI2001. rpm/v: 4000, resistance: 340mohms from our
not quite trustworthy measurements. Good with 4.5:1 or 5:1 gears, 9x6 slowflyer prop. With 9x6 prop is draws 8.5
Amps and gives 5500 prop rpm with 5:1 gearbox. 
(This is the Simprop Acro Speed 280BB) 

This motor is the one, but like you said, not much detail. I know a permax 280 weights 1.5 oz & a 300 is 1.8. I thought it was much more. guess not.


Anyone ever tried rc12L oval wheels etc on a brp?

Mike


----------



## RAFster

*Speed 300 - Speed 280BB*

I believe the SC18 Fun Wons uses 12th scale front wheels...
As a result they are faster than the SC18. Effective gearing is different due to tire size...changes the rollout.

The 280BB is pretty expensive, would be an expensive test, then again no more so than buying a Team Orion branded Big Block (Speed 300).

I believe the 280BB is longer than the 300 and it would require a new top plate and Tplate.

David


----------



## GiantScale

*rc12L wheels?? fun won wheels??*

Can anyone tell me what wheels the fun won uses? It looks like fronts off a 1/12 rc12L3

Since I cant find my fish foam, Im thinking of trying rc12L rear wheels, pod , etc.. The rims are 1 3/8 outside, so if you true the foam down to 1 1/2" leaving 1/16 of foam all the way around your wheels would only be 1/8" bigger than stock. Its a 1/4" axle though.

Who has info on the fun won?

Thanks

Mike


----------



## OvalmanPA

*fun wons*

Yes the fun wons do use 1/12 scale front wheels all around.


----------



## SecretSquirrel

OvalmanPA: It says you are an Elder Statesman that registered in Dec 1969!!! How is that possible?? Al Gore hadnt even invented the internet in 1969!!!!


----------



## OvalmanPA

Haha, you tell me? I registered here before I was even born!  I asked Hank about that and he never replied.


----------



## pmelchman

*hello*

Hello All,
Just wanted to say "hi" I've been in OKC on business since August. I was able to race in the R/C Pro Series Offroad race Sept 12-15 (OKC). I did OK. So where are the BRP races being held now? Akron? I'm hoping to be home the 1st of October. 

Take Care

Melchman


----------



## Nil

Hey, good to hear from you. We're getting set to start at Bratenahl; take a look at the "Cleveland Style at the Brat" thread under "OnRoad Racing," and at http://www.the-big-al.com/norcar/ . The latter has the BRP series rules and the race schedule.

Look forward to seeing you.


----------



## BudBartos

PA racers and Rafster>> How did yhe racing go this past weekend???


----------



## RAFster

Bud,

I helped build the track Thursday but I didn't race this past weekend. Family decided couple months ago to attend the Ohio Renaissance Festival during the Highlands weekend (this past weekend). 

Nothing really said on the CORCAR forums. One post indicated there might have been some computer problems. 

Track was a huge one. We had built it as a 150 foot straight leading into the 60 foot width sweeper. Track was large and fast. Lanes were predominately 14 feet wide. 

Principal told the kids with RC cars to bring them Friday and at Recess they let the kids use the track. Friday night's practice got rained out and the celebrity race participants were given priority. They were rained out around 8-8:30.

Bill was there Saturday but was taking Robbie to college Sunday. 
I was sleep deprived from the past month at work and very busy weekends so, I took a nice long nap Sunday.

David


----------



## Nil

Well, family matters made me go to Grove City, but also kept me from participating. I can say that there was at least one BRP in the pits, with a personal transponder in place, so I presume that he was competing. Unfortunately, that's all I can tell you. The computer seemed to be working OK the one race we saw (Nitro touring) on Saturday morning.


----------



## Guest

*The Brat*

NEED TO BRING OWN TABLES & CHAIRS at Bratenhal (sorry).

Dan


----------



## OvalmanPA

BudBartos said:


> *PA racers and Rafster>> How did yhe racing go this past weekend??? *


One word.......*cancelled*.


----------



## RAFster

I posted a note on CORCAR about the race and Hal Johnson replied...
"The racing was fun and fast. We had ~60 racers.(I think) The celebrity race was a ball.Everyone was messing around and laughing. It was a HUGE hit with the city The police chief has asked us to get involved with DARE (anti drug program) as a club. I will post details as they come along.
Overall the event went well(after the asst computer problems sat. morning) This event was a huge step forward for us as a club (more than most will ever realize) Thanks to everyone who helped and to the racers who showed up!
One more thing...that 20 minute A main was a blast,I never had so much fun driving as that was The amazing part was the fact that almost every car finished!"

The goodwill this race has generated within the ranks of City officials has much potential. If you recall we lost our track location in Columbus due to zoning issues Lowe's had with the city and due to CORCAR's hosting the HPI Challenge last year during the "Arts in the Alley" festival Grove City saw us as a potential positive for the city. They worked with businesses in Grove City to help find us a track location and within a week we were building a track at the new site. While the track at Star Cinema is very hard on tires and equipment (very open and coarse asphalt) being there has the potential to reap some rewards for the club. There is a chance the city would consider a permanent track for the club in a park. 

There was some talk about even resurfacing the section of parking lot we race on to be a more suitable RC car surface. I think the theater owner is open to this. His business has benefited by our being there. The 60+ to 80+ racers have also brought revenue into city for the lunches on race days and often dinner after racing. A few hobby shop owners have even brought some of the usual stuff we go through to the track to have on hand. One hobby shop owner would often race with us. His shop isn't convienent for me to get to but I try to get there when I can. Heck I ordered one body from him and he brought it to the track and sold it to me there. I really appreciate that thoughtfulness.

So we are lucky as a club to have a receptive City that is exploring ways to help us. They are investigating ways to see us as a resource that can add to the community.

David
RAFster


----------



## gordonmoney

Folks, don't mess with what works. Glad to hear everything went well. Wishing you luck in your future projects.


----------



## RAFster

*Your Micro body painting competition*

I should have posted this a few days ago. 

Your Micro is having a body painting competition open to any Micro (18th scale) RC car. Send them a pic of your favorite body paint job at [email protected] and tell them what the Body is, if it is rattlecan or airbrush and what type of car. I took a copy of Nil's photo of my "Jag" and submitted it. Figured what the heck...why not. 
You can view it and the other airbrush samples.
http://yourmicro.com/gallery/airbrush?&page=1

http://yourmicro.com/gallery/bodycomp2002

My "Jag", looking a little beaten from the abuse I dished out to it, is on page 2.

Some of the prizes are very nice, 2 bodies a month from Rad Microsport for a year. Many of prizes would be ebay fodder for SC18 drivers, that or the Micro drivers you know...
A couple of the Rad Microsport bodies will fit the SC18 nicely. (Ferrari 360 and the Mercedes CLK GTR for certain.)
The best of all would be to have your car featured on the homepage of Your Micro.
An SC18 on a predominately HPI Micro site... I would love to see that.

Deadline for the submission of the entries is midnight PST on 9/30/02.
So, email your entries to the email site with the specifics they want.

RAFster
David


----------



## RAFster

*Oval Outlaws*

I've noticed several Oval Outlaws on ebay recently. Anyone care to compare these to the SC18? One fellow is selling a set of 5, one new in box.
I know the SC18 is faster but, I was
wondering if a Oval Outlaw would be slow
enough for the beginner...might give the Micros a chance...  :B     

Thanks!

RAFster
David


----------



## okracer

*oval outlaws*

the oval outlaws are a little slower and whould work good for a beginer


----------



## BudBartos

We had our first indoor BRP race of the season!! Small turnout guess the weather was too nice. We had 9 BRP's running. 
Next race will be Oct13 at the new NORCAR indoor raceway. :wave:


----------



## pmelchman

Bud,

where is the NEW NORCAR raceway?

is it at Brat rec center?


Patrick


----------



## BudBartos

They will have details soon if it all goes thru. It is in Maple heights. Maybe check in on road racing under Cleveland style brat. Hope you can come out and run!


----------



## Nil

Patrick:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&postid=257597&highlight=Southgate#post257597


----------



## BudBartos

Looks like the next NORCAR race will be at The Gate!!!! Get those 44 and 46 spur gears out for your BRP car.


----------



## Nil

I seem to have lost my 9 tooth pinion.


----------



## BudBartos

Where are the PA guys????


----------



## pmelchman

when will we know for sure when/where the race is on Oct 13?


----------



## rayhuang

> when will we know for sure when/where the race is on Oct 13?


Well, the best I can say is keep your eye here. We will be working, cleaning, and moving the track to the new place Friday and Saturday. Then next week we will start laying out the carpet. We are taping it down so we need to make sure its right before proceeding!!! But, when we get issued the Occupancy permit is out of our hands to a certain extent. We have done everything we can in a timely manner. So it scomes down to how fast the gears of the City Govt. turn. Trust me when I say we are working double time. 10 days ago we didnt have anything, and today we will have a signed lease!! Best we can do!!!

The Plan (Tentative)is to have a 48 x 80 track or a 36 x 80 track.

You will need to bring a table, chair and extension cord.

Ray


----------



## rayhuang

Hey guys,

Thanks to all those who have offered to help haul the track from the Brat to the gate *Friday night*. We could still use one or two more volunteers. I will call you tomorrow and confirm the exact times. I need to talk to Pete Medved to see when he can arrive at Southgate with the NORCAR trailer. I think we should all meet there. Unload, then carpool up to the Brat and get the last of the stuff. If all goes as planned, I hope to sort the boards into seperate piles and arrange all the stuff somewhat. I have asked Bud to bring a BRP car and I'll bring a 12th and TC. if we have time, I might roll out one carpet and run the different cars -just to test!! NO RACING 
We should not need anything more than strong arms and backs. Maybe bring work gloves to carry the boards. No tools or extra trucks needed.

UPDATE: Tonight, Jimmy and I are going to scrub the floor, just to make sure the carpet tape really sticks good!!! Good thing there is a HomeDepot in the stripmall!!! SWEETTT!!
Ray
[email protected]


----------



## rayhuang

*Moving the track!!!*

Times are set!!!!

*Friday at 7pm at Southgate, USA!!!


Saturday at noon at the Brat. WIll need one or two pick-ups!!*


----------



## OvalmanPA

Hey Bud! We are still around, just haven't done much 1/18 scale racing this summer. We've all been too busy with off road. Our carpet season should be getting started the first weekend in November so we'll be back to BuRP racing action then.


----------



## BudBartos

OVALMAN PA>>> OK keep us informed with whats going on out your way!


----------



## pmelchman

is the new track ready to race?....are we going to race on the 13th...


----------



## BudBartos

pemelchman>> Yes next race is on the 13th at the new location! Get your BRP ready.


----------



## pmelchman

Bud,
You bet, I've been working out the bugs......

Pmelchman


----------



## rayhuang

Thanks to a great bunch of guys, the new Track is built. Just a few loose ends to tie-up and finish the AMB system, etc. Hope to see the BRP cars this Sunday!!!! www.the-big-al.com/norcar for directions, etc.


----------



## k1m

*BuRP racing in N.W. Pa.*

1/18 Scale Racing at Racers Edge in Smethport, Pa. starts Sunday Nov. 3rd at noon. We're really looking forward to racing the SC18 Fun Wons again. We've enjoyed off road this summer but we really miss the parking lot series where we ran the BuRPs during the summer. It'll be good to get them out again!

Pix of our 1/18 Scale Racers:
http://pennswoods.net/~fortner/BuRPix.html


----------



## Nil

The Carpet Racing League just posted their i/18 scale rules:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&postid=269558&highlight=1/18th#post269558

It certainly looks like a BRP vs. Reily show; I don't think Micros can even run 16Ds, can they?


----------



## minidixon

The micros can't run a 16d stock, but Reilly Innovations
wants everyone to come and run the CRL so we have developed
a motor mount that will fit a 16d into a mirco. The mounts 
will be sold a cost to mirco owners intrested in running 
the CRL. We will have motors on hand and I'm sure Bud will 
also have motors. -Reilly Innovations


----------



## Nil

Cool. I hope this works out, but I suspect that the friction in a Micro will make it tough for them.


----------



## Impactplayr

OK what's the conclusion on the fastest motor for the SC... I will be racing on a small bumpy 1/10th scale carpet track agianst Micros. They are running the big block with a 13 tooth pinion and TRC foams. I am running the stock 16d motor with a 9 tooth pinion, 46 tooth spur. My car is almost as fast top end, but doesn't have the same zip off the turns. 

The car seems to die in the turns like the front end is digging in too much and I am running orange fronts with blue springs!!!! Any help in this area too!!! I think if I start woopin' up on some micro butt then there will be a sudden urge for guys to jump on the BRP wagon and not the money pit.... I mean Micro!!!LOL

All I can say right now is the SC doesn't seem as forgiving as the micro on a bumpy track..... 

Also what would you guys run on the damper pucks for this track, currently I a running them dry....


----------



## BudBartos

Impactplayer>> I would stay with the motor you have and maybe install the XP magnets. Run the stock orange springs in front with the orange tires. We run a new T plate that has more flex for the bumpy tracks, if you order one from the site it is still the stock one just mention you want the high flex plate and I will change it.
We run the dampers with just a small amount of heavy silocone lube (small amount) Springs set almost loose. Make sure the diff has a very slight amount of slip this also helps smooth things out.


----------



## Impactplayr

Thanks Bud, I'll have to place an order this weekend!!


----------



## RAFster

*Off Topic Humor*

This is kind of off topic humor...

This humorous bit that kinda reminds me of the Micro philosophy...Paul Holonitch had posted this to CORCAR's site...figured other would get a laugh out of it.
Check out the website:

http://www.acsu.buffalo.edu/~attse/honduh.htm

Enjoy!

RAFster
David


----------



## k1m

*Off Subject Humor*

Rafster: That's funny!! I like it!!   

Hopupitus infects us all to some degree....We all like to personalize our R/C *TOYS* with special little go fast goodies. That's where a good reliable and strong basic vehicle like the SC18 becomes important. A solid platform to build on lets you spend your money on goodies instead of replacement parts just to keep it running.


----------



## BudBartos

I have one of those FART cans on my 1990 Honda it does sound good. Stickers thats it!


----------



## Impactplayr

Here's the way I see it when comparing the Micro to the SC18 to prepare for any racing surface.... (let's just assume you choose a body that will allow standard radio gear on the micro)

Micro- $100
Ball diff- $25
Front one-way- $35
Trinity foams x2- $20 (hope you know which compounds to get...LOL)
6.0 volt rechargable battery pack- $35
Graphite chassis conversion- $60 (gotta stiffen that thing up or traction roll like crazy)
Big Bock motor conversion- $35 (the stock motor will not keep up on long straights)

Total= $310 Add $9 to the cost of the bodies if you want to change the wheelbase for a different body.....

BRP SC18- $80
Ball diff- $20
complete set of foams- $40 (you will have all 3 compounds front and rear)
high flex t-plate- $4
complete spring set- $10 (6 sets of springs!!!)
XP power magnets- $6
6.0 volt AA pack- $22 (just shop around I found a 1450Mah pack at tower!!!)
Optional pinions- $3 

Total= $185..... wow if you really want to spend all the money you can get 5 more battery packs and 2 bolink micro bodies with the money you will save!!!!! BTW: all wheelbase bodies will fit the SC!
Heck you could even get a custom graphite chasis/upper pod plate made by Wind tunnel racing and still have extra money left over!!!


----------



## k1m

*Bud*

Tell us alittle about your full scale mini racer the 1990 Honda. I understand you've been doing alittle racing this summer. What series is it? How'd you do this summer?
Stickers - yeah!! :lol:


----------



## Tim Mc

Hey Bud, what's the chance of a Sprint Car body for the SC18 car? Maybe even a detachable top wing? Thanks.


----------



## BudBartos

Nitrowolfe>> We had one for the old car. The new chassis would not allow use of it since it is so wide.


----------



## Tim Mc

That's to bad Bud. I would love to see pics of the old. Hint Hint.


----------



## Impactplayr

Bud I got my XP magnets and x-flex t-bar, I must say I like the T-Bar alot, but the magnets don't seem to make much difference. My wifes SC accelerates just as fast as mine does and she has the standard brushes??? My motor is well used, should I install them in the barely used parms deathstar motor I have??(that motor felt was a dog when I had it in my SC) Right now I am concidering swapping arms, brushes, and endbells with hers (once she goes to sleep of coarse....LOL)


----------



## BudBartos

Impactplayer>> The death star is a different wind so the one with the yellow endbell should be faster. If you use new brushes make sure you water dip the motor to break them in. That makes a huge difference.


----------



## Robertw321

Bud,

We just got our SC18's. I know we are allowes to run front bearings. I aasume the wheels need to be drilled. What's the best way to do it?

TIA


----------



## Guest

*motor zapping*

Bud I'm bring our motor zapper for the next race, have you ever tryed to zap one of your motors? I wounder what it would do.

Dan


----------



## BudBartos

Best to try the cars first without bearings!


----------



## BudBartos

Hey guys here is a good one. I just got a email from HPI purchasing dept. They were asking if we still produce the SC18 since she could not find one at the LHS. I told her she could not find one because they have Micros stacked to the ceiling.
What do you think they want with that car?
I'll tell you one thing they are going to pay full price for it if they want it from me. 
Another thing I noticed the latest issue of RCCA and Extreme did not have HPI Micro ad's in them! Is this the beginning of there phase out like there F1 Cars????
All those Poor hobby shops with walls full of pretty alum. Juc I mean stuff :lol:


----------



## Guest

Yikes !! Maybe they are working on a floating rear end and want to see how you did yours Bud ?? That would be very lame  


Good news today, I got my SC18  What a slick 18th scale ride, these will be a hit at my local micro track :thumbsup: 

Will post pics when I get it painted and geared up for the track ! Got the 1st coat of liquid mask on just now...


----------



## Impactplayr

I'll bet they are working on a micro F1 car!!!! You should beat them to the punch Bud!!!! Actually only slight modification would be needed to mak an SC18 into an F1.... Anyone now where I can get 1/18th scale F1 bodies????


----------



## BudBartos

2sloww00 .. I will be putting a page on the web site about my racing thrills with the Honda.


----------



## 2slow00

Novice of the year. What a driver!:thumbsup:


----------



## rayhuang

Michael, Went to the BRP site today.... Sweet instruction manual!!!! Very nicely done!!


----------



## Nil

rayhuang said:


> *Michael, Went to the BRP site today.... Sweet instruction manual!!!! Very nicely done!! *


Agreed! It is superb; I wish it had been around when I was building mine.

One question, though: No servo saver?


----------



## Micro_Racer

*instruction manual*

Thanks for the props! I have to give my wife allot of credit! As I put the SC-18 together, she wrote down what I was doing and made sure it made sense to her (a person with no R/C experience). Now the critics have no excuse to rate the SC-18 the best 1/18 scale on-road car!

Servo saver--- I was going to put that as a pro tip, but forgot! I hope to make a Pro Edition instruction manual – please email me with your custom parts, with as much detail as possible (part manufacturer, part number and so on) and a picture to me. A lot of you experienced racers have some great modifications to your SC-18. Unfortunately you can’t go to your LHS or Tower Hobbies and look up SC-18 hop up parts like you can with the Micro. That’s why I would like to put the Pro guide together, so people new to the hobby (like me) can easily find performance enhancing modifications!

SEND ME YOUR MODS!!

:thumbsup:


----------



## DSI

oh Oh more competition
looks HPIish
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/wws1a.jpg
I like the F1 better than Futaba's
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/wwsf1.jpg


----------



## Micro_Racer

Bud---did you check out 

www.geocities.com/rodzzo/wws1a.jpg

I like the bumper...


----------



## Impactplayr

I think I have found part of the equasion, Last Saturday night there was only 2 of us in the micro class. I was running 1/12th, 4wd stock, and micro... so I had a freind substitute drive for me during the last 2 mirco races..... He was having a hard time handling the car during the final heat, then during the main the car suddenly stopped. I ran over and checked it and the damper tube had came off during the race, so I quickly took out both springs and the damper pucks and threw the car back out..... one lap later he yelled "what did you do to this car!!" I asked if the handling was worse, and he replied "no better!!!!" After the race I inspected the damper tube and it had a ring wore into the sides from the upper pod plate bottoming out on it.... So the rear suspension wasn't getting all the flex it needed to maintain traction on the bumpy track..... Now the HPI cars are havig a problem with the bumps and the BRP is hooking up!!!! So they can have their big blocks and 6.0 volt packs, all I need is to drive right under them!!!!!!


----------



## Micro_Racer

Impactplayr 

you may want to try the flex T-plate (has the middle cut out) and BRP silicon lub to help with the bumps...


----------



## Impactplayr

I have the high flex T-Plate....


----------



## k1m

*BRP Ad*

Got my December Issue of Xtreme RC Cars today, and there on page 118 is the full page BRP ad with Bud's SC18 shown actual size!! Nice job, Bud. It's time the rest of the R/C world woke up.
And the Made in USA is a nice touch too.....


----------



## BudBartos

K1m>> Thanks hope it helps! I sold 5 kits at our last race and 3 more are coming next sunday, all new racers!!! 
Are you guys starting indoors soon?

Impact player >> When you have the damper tube on with the car having batteries installed place on a flat surface and check that the tube is centered in the upper plate hole. Somtimes if you don't get the bottom screw threaded straight the tube will not be centered. To fix just hold the bottom were the screw goes into t plate and tweek it over so it is centered. I would also put some locktight or small amount of super glue on tube to lock it to the screw good.


----------



## Impactplayr

The tube was centered and the wear mark is concentric around the entire tube..... The track is a little bumpy for 1/10th scales and 1/12th pancars..... but to 1/18th it's alot like a ralley coarse......LOL


----------



## OvalmanPA

*ad*

Yes Bud I also got the new Xtreme and the ad does look good. The real sickening thing though is just a couple pages after that FULL PAGE ad they have the X best and the best mini is listed as the.........surprise, surprise.........micro RS4 with not even an honorable mention to the BRP car. Sickens me that even a magazine of this caliber can't see past the hopupititus equation with the micro.  

I think an email is in order.


----------



## Guest

*1/18th*

Maybe the boys will do a BIG for 1/18th only, and everybody will SEE how good your car is Bud. :thumbsup: 

Dan


----------



## BudBartos

Impactplayer >>OK then it is most likley the damper discs wearing the tube. I will be adding that part to the web site soon so racers can replace it when needed. It will be a expensive hopup however maybe $3.00 :thumbsup:


----------



## BudBartos

Dan >> mentioned it but did not get a answer on how they would like to do it rent wise. I love racing against those mod Micros and beating them by laps


----------



## BudBartos

Ovalman >> I hear that !!! If you get the new car action Minis and Micro RS4 special they have four Micros with hop ups I added up the hop ups and they average around $500.00 Just in little parts  

I will have some new chassis and some other parts coming out soon, I will inform all when ready.


----------



## Guest

*tires*

Bud are you bring touring car tires this sunday? Need some.

Dan


----------



## OvalmanPA

Bud in my opinion that magazine isn't worth the money to see all the ads every month so I won't be seeing the "special edition". :lol:


----------



## BudBartos

If anyone has a interest I have a BRP car on ebay it's at $50.00 right now!!!
Go for it


----------



## DSI

Ive set up a list of hopups from what have seen in here, didnt discard any idea because they are in rough stage.
http://www.geocities.com/rodzzo/rd.html


----------



## DSI

BTW Theres a guy in here who needs help deciding on SC18
http://tinyrc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2711


----------



## Nil

*DSI*

Neat list. I had no idea it was that long. Unfortunately, you're having some problems with your pictures.


----------



## DSI

Problems?? 
Pics are big, one is 747 kb!!!! let me see how can I shrink the size and set it up:thumbsup:


----------



## RAFster

*picture problems*

picture problems are that they don't load...


----------



## Nil

*DSI:*

Your picture links are off. The picture specified as image002.jpg is actually image001.jpg, the reference to image005.jpg should go to image004.jpg, etc.

Good pics & interesting concepts, once you find them.


----------



## DSI

thank you, found and fixed, needed a new page design 
any more ideas to add?
What do you think of pics?


----------



## RAFster

*DSI's web page*

DSI, The AVM page has very few links that are displaying the pictures.
What is the red motor pod from? BTW, the Speed 300 turns in the opposite direction and should be mounted to the right pod...
Interesting pictures.

You do pretty well with Photoshop...
pasting together a 12LW/LC front suspension onto the chassis pan. 
What with the cost of the suspension being so much $39, it wouldn't be cost effective unless Bud could get a super deal on them.

RAFster
David


----------



## OvalmanPA

Bud, here were the results from our first BuRP race of the year. The guys in bold were running micros. They decided they need a wider footprint but I joked with them that they just need a BRP!  The track right now is a bit "offroadish" for our little cars but even with the roughness K1M still set a pretty fast time with a 32. His track record last year was a 35 and we added a little to the length of the track. If we get rid of the "jumps" it's gonna be a FAST year!

Racers Edge R/C Racing & Hobbies - NOVEMBER 3, 2002

-- BuRP - A MAIN --
pos car laps time name id avg.mph
1 4 31 5:00.53 Kim Fortner 30 9.70
2 5 29 5:00.78 Don Weimer 39 9.07
3 2 29 5:04.94 Chris Burrows 4 8.94
4 3 28 5:01.33 Rick Morgan 37 8.74
5 1 28 5:04.53 Joy Fortner 40 8.65
6 0 27 5:01.81 John Rezzelle 24 8.41


Racers Edge R/C Racing & Hobbies - NOVEMBER 3, 2002

-- BuRP - B MAIN --
pos car laps time name id avg.mph
1 3 28 5:08.79 *Dean Hushon* 20 8.53
2 8 26 5:04.06 *Donny Hushon* 41 8.04
3 9 19 5:04.20 Barb Morgan 38 5.87
4 1 19 5:05.78 *Shane Hushon* 29 5.84
-- 4 --- DNS --- Laura Burrows 6


----------



## Nil

*DSI:*

Big improvement; the thumbnails are much cooler. Thanks


----------



## DSI

*Re: DSI's web page*



RAFster said:


> *DSI, The AVM page has very few links that are displaying the pictures.
> What is the red motor pod from? BTW, the Speed 300 turns in the opposite direction and should be mounted to the right pod...
> Interesting pictures.
> 
> You do pretty well with Photoshop...
> pasting together a 12LW/LC front suspension onto the chassis pan.
> What with the cost of the suspension being so much $39, it wouldn't be cost effective unless Bud could get a super deal on them.
> 
> RAFster
> David *


RAFSter: purple motor pod is from ABC DTM-SP 1/24, fits 180 size motors, silver is from WWS PRO 1/24, fits 300 motors(fixed the opposite direction problem) I also consider 39 is big buck to even try it, also AVMs are pricey (fixed pics) but everything is just concept


----------



## k1m

*BuRP racing in Pa.*

Good to get back to carpet racing, huh Ovalman? But what a long day!! I thought the Micros would do better than they did. The track's not that much different this year - I think it's better. We gotta smooth down those wrinkles though, or have Bud build us an offroad suspension! Maybe a carpet stretcher would do it. 
I missed not running the BuRPs all summer.


----------



## RAFster

*Re: Re: DSI's web page*



DSI said:


> *RAFSter: purple motor pod is from ABC DTM-SP 1/24, fits 180 size motors, silver is from WWS PRO 1/24, fits 300 motors(fixed the opposite direction problem) I also consider 39 is big buck to even try it, also AVMs are pricey (fixed pics) but everything is just concept *


I've got a Dynamic Strut Front End from Associated. It is rather beefy. What would be ideal is to have that suspension with a Servo sandwiched between the blocks. 
I don't know if you could do it. 
Guess I'll have to open it up and assemble on side to see how large it is...or take a few measurements off a friend's 12 scale...

Thanks for fixing the pictures...

RAFster
David


----------



## Nil

*Re: BuRP racing in Pa.*



k1m said:


> *I missed not running the BuRPs all summer. *


 You were invited to the World Championships! Great racing & good dogs. How's the back?


----------



## BudBartos

DSI >> You can get the exact same motor as the big block from Hobby Lobby. It is the Graupner speed 300 6 volt $16.00.
You will have to install capacitors on it however.


----------



## RAFster

*Big Block/Speed 300/Watt-Age 370*

The Watt-Age 370 is a non labelled Speed 300 or Big Block and you can pop a capacitor pack or solder some capacitors on it pretty cheap. The Watt-Age goes for around $10. 

RAFster
David


----------



## k1m

Nil: So far the back's been fine...I'm trying to be more careful. 

We had a great time at BRP World Headquarters in June. It's quite a road trip for us though, maybe we'll try and do it again next year. The hotdogs were good but we missed 2slowoo. Maybe we can talk you guys into coming to Pa sometime, we don't have a Quaker Steak & Lube here, but we have a place called The Beef & Barrel that's pretty hard to beat.


----------



## 2slow00

K1m maybe next summer. Didn't you guys have a special race last summer?


----------



## OvalmanPA

Yea K1M it is nice to get back to the carpet burning. I'm much more of a indoor guy even though that off road was fun all summer. Now I have to find some more speed. Dunno what we're gonna do about the bumps. I don't think it's ever been this bad before.


----------



## DSI

*Re: Big Block/Speed 300/Watt-Age 370*



RAFster said:


> *The Watt-Age 370 is a non labelled Speed 300 or Big Block and you can pop a capacitor pack or solder some capacitors on it pretty cheap. The Watt-Age goes for around $10.
> 
> RAFster
> David *


Yes i did discovered that when I ordered both, man I could bought 2 Watt-Age 370 for the Graupner  
David I really would like to see if 12L3 DFS fits/performs on a BRP;got dimensions from AE directly "LXWXH 4 7/8 x 1 7/8 x 1 1/8 approx. when installed";but they didnt told me the dimensions of each (left/right); Im also waiting for the results of a 380 motor with 20t pinion in a micro,I have the exact same motor in that project and maybe I could manage to fit it in the FW-18, they say top speed is like speed 300 but in torque an accel is a blast.


----------



## RAFster

The Mabuchi 380 or Wattage 380 is what Graupner Speed 400. (sold by Hobby Lobby in TN; not to be confused with the Hobby Lobby craft store chain) 

The motor is too big for an SC18 but a
FunWons with some work to widen the rear pod could fit a Speed 400.
I'll dig out the Dynamic Strut Front End 
and assemble one side and take measurements this weekend. The suspension arm plate is something like 1.5" long (from memory...)
It isn't real light either, a little too beefy for a 18th scale... ride height would be an issue unless you shimmed it a bunch and if you did that you would have body clearance issues on many bodies...
Gonna have to dig up a pair of 1/12 scale fronts.

RAFster
David


----------



## Impactplayr

*dynamic front end...*

It measures---


1.765" from back (inside of front arms) to the outside edge of the steering hub (where the wheel mounts not including axle)

1.206" high at the king pin (which rides completely inside the wheel)

1.041" high off the chassis with no shims (this can be altered by removing material from the mounting points ( which will raise ride height also) Also this is with the )deg. mount the 10 deg. mount would be taller.

0.969" from the kingpin to the very front of the suspension.

Mounting on the SC, not FW would make the front end of the car 0.280" wider per side or 0.560" total width. If you mounted the suspension back to back down the centerline.

With some modifications, a shorter king pin, fw rear axle and wheel, a more 1/12th scale style BRP could be built from the SC..... HMMMM can anyone get me a 1/12 style or F1 style body for my SC?????
:dude: :dude: :dude:


----------



## wazzer

*Re: Big Block/Speed 300/Watt-Age 370*



RAFster said:


> *The Watt-Age 370 is a non labelled Speed 300 or Big Block and you can pop a capacitor pack or solder some capacitors on it pretty cheap. The Watt-Age goes for around $10.
> 
> RAFster
> David *


David, who handles the Watt-Age 370's ?


----------



## RAFster

*Watt-age 370/Big Block/Graupner Speed 300*

Wazzer,

Hobby People in California has them and you can get your local hobby shop to order them for you. At Hobby People they cost $9.99.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/131350.asp

Tower won't carry them because of Watt-age is distributed by Global Hobby.

You can order two and ship first class for $3.00 or 3-5 motors Priority Mail for $6.50. 6 motors and above you are getting UPS Ground for $7.00 or FedEx 2nd Day for $10.

RAFster
David


----------



## DSI

*Re: dynamic front end...*



Impactplayr said:


> *
> With some modifications, a shorter king pin, fw rear axle and wheel, a more 1/12th scale style BRP could be built from the SC..... HMMMM can anyone get me a 1/12 style or F1 style body for my SC?????
> :dude: :dude: :dude: *


Cool idea something like this:
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/f1b.jpg
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/f1a.jpg


----------



## Tim Mc

DSI....who makes the F1 in the pics?


----------



## DSI

i think it is KEIL(an AE associate en Germany)
www.christian-keil.com
dont know what scale is?


----------



## DSI

*Re: dynamic front end...*

Well correct me If Im wrong in FW-18 dimesions 



Impactplayr said:


> *It measures---
> 
> 1.765" from back (inside of front arms) to the outside edge of the steering hub (where the wheel mounts not including axle) *


FW has 2.16" from the outside edge of the steering hub to centerline
2.16-1.765=.395 left?



> *1.206" high at the king pin (which rides completely inside the wheel) *


FW has 1.062" if we took in consideration all that rides completely inside the wheel



> * 1.041" high off the chassis with no shims (this can be altered by removing material from the mounting points ( which will raise ride height also) Also this is with the )deg. mount the 10 deg. mount would be taller.
> 
> 0.969" from the kingpin to the very front of the suspension.
> 
> *


I think Im missing one dimension please look pic...
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/dynstrut.jpg


----------



## DSI

RAFster said:


> *
> It isn't real light either, a little too beefy for a 18th scale...
> *


With the dimensions stated by Impactplayr i got an idea of the beefy issue... would look like this in a FW18
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/i2.jpg


----------



## MystRacing

I spent quite a bit of time looking at the Assocaited dynamic front end. I don't mean to rain on the parade but aside from the issues mentioned above concerning the size and weight there is one other issue that caused me to scrap the idea.

I could be wrong but I don't think even with .014 springs the suspension would work. If there isn't significant front suspension movement the dynamic in the dynamic suspension wont do anything. I think the end result would be a car that handles the same, or is loose because of being front heavy, but weighs much more. Also it might just be the surface I run on but my Fun Won tends to be loose not push, so the added responsiveness if the suspension did work would probably just make the car harder to drive.

It might work with the larger motor in the rear to counter the weight of the front, but theres a point that a person might as well just get a 12th scale.

My thought on making an adjustable front end was to make a king pin that was bent 2 degrees. That would allow a person to adjust the camber and caster between 2 degrees caster 0 degrees camber mounted angled toward the back, and 0 degrees caster and 2 degrees camber angled toward the center of the chassis. In a 45 degree orientation you would get 1 degree of camber and 1 degree of caster. I don't know what it would take manufacturing wise, but it would be a simple effective solution that maintains the simplicity of the BRP car.


----------



## RAFster

Would shimming the front suspension plate
do the same thing you want. It is a matter of determining how much to shim. Would the screw holes in the suspension plate require enlarging or slotting to make this work?

So, can you obtain the angle with just
a washer or do you need a thin 2 degree
block set for shimming back and forward...
I'm thinking of a thin plastic shim that
goes between the chassis and the suspension plate.

My old Associated 12i with a mono shock front-end had shims used to get various changes in caster by inserting a shim or two under the center block of the suspension. This would have to be an injected molded piece or it could be machined. Either way it wouldn't be cheap.

So, I guess a nylon or steel washer can
provide the shim angle. You just need
to sit down with the calculator and note pad to determine how high the chassis at the front screw is raised to provide 2 degrees.

Camber is a tougher cookie to crack...

Any thoughts on this?
Having separate front suspension halves would increase weight because it would require more hardware. As well as causing issues for the servo mounting area.

But, you start making massive changes and the inexpensive car starts to take on the life of a smaller 12th scale. The costs go up and up...

David


----------



## MystRacing

RAFster - I agree with you about the cost of manufacturing. 

I think you are onto something with the shimming the kingpin idea, however instead of having it made; the trick would be to find a shim elsewhere that would work, that way you wouldn't have to deal with manufacturing issues.

Shimming the front plate works but requires a lot of effort relative to a devised kingpin method. It also moves the body mount and servo, it's slight but none the less an undesired effect.

A lot the parts on R/C cars are parts that were manufactured for other purposes. As an example the battery hold down and the belt on my com lathe are both packing rings to seal pipe joints. They cost less than a dime at the local hardware store. There about has to be something out there that will work without a major manufacturing cost.


----------



## Impactplayr

DSI- my measurements where not off, I was measuring an SC18, NOT FW 18.... Also the one demension you are worried about is unimportant, because it is the one that can be worked around, however the inside diameter of the wheel is much more important and harder to work around.

Myst- the weight will not be a factor to concider because the dynamic strut front end weighs less than the assembled BRP front end with servo. The servo will now have to be relocated to the radio plate which will move the weight rearward.
The "dynamic" part of the suspension is also not a factor because when you use the 0deg pieces there is no dynamic caster to the suspension.
Also the bent kingpins would not work very well, at the lowest point the steering blocks will bid, if you set the pins at 45 deg. angles to give you caster and chamber the steering will also bind when the front end is under compression....

Rafster- Yes the shims under the front steerng plate bolt will work, but measuring exact angle is unneccesary, there is no set "right" caster /kick up angle just remember how think of a shim you used to make the car feel good to you.


ALSO to anyone concerened, the hop-ups are to help the SC and FW grab some of the market from the Micro, the guys that buy micros are mainly looking for hop-ups and stay away from the BRP cars because they figure if noone makes hop-ups the car cannot compete..... Then there are also some of ius that want to hop-up our SC's and FW's just because we can.... personnally I would much rather have a one off custom made by me, so I can say you can't buy that in a store....LOL


----------



## MystRacing

Impactplayr - On the pan cars I ran back in the 80's it was the standard method to bend the front kingpins to set your camber. It didn't cause problems because the bend was at the very bottom of the pin. The only reason it cant be done on the SC18 easily, like it was back then is because the SC18 king pins are much more stout. If a person could figure out a way to bend them I'm sure it would work fine.

As far as the camber and caster together causing binding. I guess you could look at it that way but most people just refer to it as bump steer. It won't hurt anything and likely would make the car handle better on rough tracks. Like the 30 degrees caster and 3 degrees of camber on an offroad vehicle, just not as extreme of course. 

As far as the weight issue it might not effect the handling but it will make the car heavier and slow it down. I just don't care for upgrades that don't do anything. Without the dynamic caster all I can see that the dynamic front end would do is make the camber adjustable. That's a pretty monumental effort for adjustable camber IMO. If it will get people to buy BRP's I'm all for it though.


----------



## MystRacing

On the helpful side my 12th scale front's fit on the FW18 just fine. It wouldn't hurt to trim them a bit on a truer so they're closer to the standard BRP size but they will work. On the rear all that is necessary is to trim out the ribs in the center of the wheel Jaco's. The TRC 12th scale fronts should work fine though so the Kinpin length shouldn't be a major problem.


----------



## Impactplayr

With the solid drag link connecting the right and left steering blocks there would most definately be binding, however if the servo was mounted like a 1/12th scale with the output shaft in the middle and the steering tie-rods set-up like a 1/12th then you would only encounter bump steer......


----------



## k1m

Bud: Got my order today, thanx....you're pretty fast off the track too! Do the motors come with XP magnets in them now? Don't see them listed seperately in the new catalog.
Also - A while back someone offered to cut 16d motors at one of your local tracks.(Chicky??)I'd like to convert a 540 motor lathe to work on BRP motors. I was wondering what kind of set up does the Parma guy use?


----------



## BudBartos

K1m>> yes those motors have XP magnets. The motor lathe he has is made just for slot arms, it was a Cobra.


----------



## k1m

*Re:BRP ad*



OvalmanPA said:


> *Yes Bud I also got the new Xtreme and the ad does look good. The real sickening thing though is just a couple pages after that FULL PAGE ad they have the X best and the best mini is listed as the.........surprise, surprise.........micro RS4 with not even an honorable mention to the BRP car. Sickens me that even a magazine of this caliber can't see past the hopupititus equation with the micro.
> 
> I think an email is in order.  *


I think so too Ovalman....Anybody else out there?
Shoot them an email at Xtreme R/C and tell them to get their heads out of their butts and what you think of BRP's mini.

Email the editor Derek Buono at [email protected]


----------



## Robertw321

Bud,

Do the motors in the kits I purchase a couple of weeks ago have the XP magnets installed?

TIA


----------



## BudBartos

RobertW312>> I sent you a email with some ???


----------



## Impactplayr

I saw the article today.... why in the .... would they even compare a 1/12th to micro cars and how in the .... does the BRP get bumped in favor of the mini-z???? NOT to mention they picked the crappiest 1/12th scale car of all to list!!!!!! I thought Xtreme was honest!! or are is this the one time they where afraid to write the truth!!!


----------



## OvalmanPA

K1M.....I think one of the worst things they did was hire that Derek guy anyway. He and I had a few words on R/C Car Actions message board when he still worked for them. Seems like kind of a dink to me.


----------



## RAFster

Hobby shop has the Xtreme finally, gonna have to drop by and pick up a copy.

I was gagging from all the stench of Bull as I read the Micro RS4 article on Xtreme's website.
http://www.rc411.com/reviews/micrors4-01.html

They claim, 
"Top Speed • Top speed of the Micro RS4 was relatively impressive in its stock outfit with a 6-cell. According to the radar gun, the Micro topped out approximately 19mph! Not too shabby for a little guy! Drivability at top speed for the Micro was exceptionally stable for such a narrow stance. "
First of all if you are using a radar gun then why are you approximating the speed? The ramp or hill wasn't long enough?    
They had it geared with 11T pinion and stock motor. Didn't RC Cars say the top speed was 16mph?
I've raced against stock Micros and they they are SSLLLOOOOOWW!

I love the fact they gloss over the gluing the wheels being challenging. It is a royal pain to glue the Micro wheels and I have experience gluing sets of Touring car wheels and Tamiya Mini Cooper.


They rate the main competition as:
Main Competition BRP Fun One
They forget the BRP SC18 and they
can't even get the name right...
Fun Wons...

RAFster
David


----------



## k1m

*BuRP Racing in Pa*

Another fun night of racing at Racers Edge with 10 in the BuRP class. The micros are really struggling, they're all running mod motors, two of them have a fair amount of purple goodies on them. I got a pretty good look at them tonight, because I was trying to help them get hooked up better. They ended up with a set of Fun Won wheels/tires on the back that did give them some traction (looked like a funny car) but the rear suspension just doesn't seem up to it. The difference in wheel diameter between front & rear couldn't have helped either being 4wd. One guy was beside me at the drivers stand and I'll just say he's pretty fed up with his micro. They take it way to seriously though, most of the rest of us were laughing and kidding each other while we bump and grind. Maybe next week I'll see if that guy would like to try "Da Wedge" for the qualifiers.....

Fearless Prediction.... I think we can get 34 laps with a clean race. So far 32 laps is the most I've got, but I've been making alot of mistakes in traffic.


----------



## BudBartos

Hey all we had a fairly good turnout for the BRP cars sunday with 18 racers going at it! I did some testing, it is secret :thumbsup: Later!!!


----------



## OvalmanPA

*Fearless prediction*

Aren't you meaning "I think *I*" can get 34 laps with a clean race? Seems the rest of us are playing _catch da wedge_ every week. :lol:


----------



## k1m

Ovalman: It's early in the season, I'm sure you guys will catch up soon. My BRP car was ready to race for the glass festival race in September. We didn't race that day, so it's been ready since then. Don is fast, I think he's just less of a hacker than me....:devil: And you know Chris won't give an inch either. We do play rough, but it's all in good fun! One of the biggest frustrations is when two Fun Wons get together side by side and the tires get locked up! Sometimes it seems almost impossible to pry them apart using the throttle.

Bud: Everyone loves a "secret project"!!


----------



## RAFster

k1m wrote,
Bud: Everyone loves a "secret project"!!

We love the results but sometimes the suspense is killer! Makes you think of being a kid on Christmas Eve...

RAFster
David


----------



## DSI

Finally uploaded some pics of my car 
Ill try this as a record for changes
www.geocities.com/rodzzo/mybrp.html
(hope it works )


----------



## k1m

DSI: Nice looking Fun Wons! I know their tires aren't scale, but there's just something about the big tires that look cool under most bodys. That Nissan looks mean - is the S300 controlable on anything but carpet? Looks like the Lancer is a styrene body(hard) - from a model? What's the width of that body? It's proportion looks good on the Fun Wons.

If use the http:// button when you post, it will work like a link:

www.geocities.com/rodzzo/mybrp.html


----------



## DSI

Thanks K1m......
...and yes S300 is good on anything but carpet(it is cool for drifting and running over minizees )


Lancer is a tricky photo (you cant see thef left side where more than half of the chassis is hanging out) width is 4in, 1/16 scale. Heavy mods have to be made to fit everything in side, but I will loose all vehicle dynamics if I do them. 
Anyway Im happy with the R390 bashing out those minizs 
until the 1/10 guys come and bash me


----------



## Impactplayr

*BUD?*

What parts would I need to convert my SC18 to an FW18, I already have the a few SC ball diffs, so can I buy the FW hubs seperate, mainly the left side (drive for ball diff) hub...... About how much am I looking at investing?? I have come to realize that the SC just is too unstable on a bumpy coarse and can't get the speed and acceleration....

If I buy the parts to convert the car, wheels and a new motor will it cost me more than just buying the whole kit and new left side hub????


----------



## k1m

*SC18 to Fun Won Conversion*

Let's see...
#303 F.W. front end $15.50
#365 F.W. diff kit (hubs)$25.00
#400 Rear tires (blue) $11.50
#401 Front tires(blu/org)$11.50
#453 F.W. tie rods $ 4.00
I come up with $67.50 total.......I think I'd just buy another Fun Won and have twice the fun!


----------



## BudBartos

Impactplayer>> K1M has got it for you! Those guys in PA are the FW experts


----------



## Impactplayr

Who distributes the speed 300 motors???


----------



## Nil

*Classic Oval*

Well, the gang went down to Classic Hobbies in Akron tonight. We had a great time, with this correspondent bringing up the rear as usual. There were two innovations tonight. First, there was a *mod* BRP class. This was for big block motors; there were five entries. The cars ranged from a standard BRP with big block side pods to two custom chassis using small batteries. One was a saddle pack arrangement, the other had a side by side pack with the batteries all lined up along the left side (naturally) of the chassis.

These cars were _fast_! Bud was actually letting off the throttle for the corners. 

The other noteworthy item was a *15 car* main. Mayhem and destruction were rampant until nearly half the cars had been sidelined by collisions. Both the first and last qualifiers were DNFs.


----------



## RAFster

*speed 300/big block/mabuchi 370*

Impactplayer>>

Speed is the marketing name Graupner uses for Mabuchi motors. The Speed 300 is carried by several companies. Speedster Racing, Hobby Lobby (importer) in TN, and others. (possibly even your local hobby shop) The speed 280 is not the same thing. The speed 280BB is a external brush motor with similar power and torque as the speed 300. I think the general thoughts are the Speed 280BB or Simprop Acro Speed 280BB are really better suited because the torque is delivered in a curve more suitable to the 18th cars.

The Big Block has a capacitor ring and a fancy label by Team Orion for $33+ 
The Speed 300 is $15ish from Hobby Lobby
or Speedster Racing. 
(capacitor ring is a couple dollars or solder your own on...)

The Watt-age 370 motor is the same thing
without the fancy packaging or other info you get in the Speed 300 package.
They sell for $10 at Hobby People in California.

The Speed 300, Big Block, and Watt-age 370 are all Mabuchi 370 motors. 
RS-370PH or RS-370SH I think is the Mabuchi model.

RAFster

Hobby Lobby's Speed 300, 400, etc 

Hobby People website for Watt Age 370... 

 Speedster Racing web site


----------



## BudBartos

Nil >> It's a secret!!!!! I always let off in the corners remember SLOW is FAST.
We all had a great time at classic and I can't wait to do it again. Long haul group was from Sugar grove Ohio 4 1/2 hr drive hope you guys had FUN.


----------



## Impactplayr

Can the speed 300 or watt-age 370 be ran in reverse so I don't have to have the motor plate on the right side???? This is for a custom car so i don't wat to but the big-block conversion.....


----------



## BudBartos

You can run them in revers but they will not be as fast.


----------



## k1m

What about gearing the Big Block? I would assume a smaller pinion would be better, is the motor shaft the same size as 16d motors?

I swapped cars with a Micro driver today - The one with Fun Won rear tires...It was pretty fast but I couldn't keep it on it's tires. He finished 2nd and seemed impressed with my BRP. I ended up somewhere in the middle of the pack 5 or 6 laps down. It was a blast though, I can't help wonder how my car would run with the HPI mod motor. Next week that Micro will have Fun Won tires front & back. I think one of the micro guys will be buying a BRP. The other one told me he has too much in it to give up on it so we'll try the tires and see.

I'm gonna have to try a Big Block too, I can see it coming!


----------



## BudBartos

K1m>> And they just keep putting more in them!!! I would gear the speed 300 9/52 it does have the same size shaft but file the serrations down some.


----------



## Motor City Hamilton

Bud - I was e-mailed a post from another mini website about Micros wanting to run the Carpet Racing League, but not being able to run 16D motors. The class has been pretty small, so I am very open to discuss making the rules more flexible. I know that we have had discussions about the Micros and allowing them to run, but with no big blocks. Let's make a decision on that and get the word out for Toledo on December 15th.

Keith


----------



## BudBartos

Motor city >> Like I said before let them run any of there motors except the big block/ speed 300. We have run against all of them and the 16d is faster.
We will be at the CRL in Toledo and I will se if some others will make the trip. :thumbsup:


----------



## RAFster

Bud,

Have you ran against the brushless motors. 
Some of the Micro guys in the search for insanity have started down this road.
The brushless motors deliver insane power for their size but the entry price is huge. The Hacker line of motors has been a recent entry into planes and they have good quality. Even the less expensive Hacker line puts you down $170-200 for the motor and ESC. The ESC for the brushless is also larger than we are accustomed. 

Micro racers intent on massive speed have had good luck with the Speed 400/480 size motor as well but, as you have aptly pointed out, you have to be able to turn and not roll the car into a furball!

I don't think you can fit the 400 to a SC18, even with massive pod plate mods. from the axle back you wouldn't be able to have a top or bottom plate without fabricating yet a taller motor plate. The slots for the screw holes should work with the 400 but the top and bottom L's of the plate have to disappear. And the top and bottom plates will be in the way so they have to be redone. So the entire pod would have to be remade essentially. The top and bottom of the motor would have stick out above and below the plates and you'd have hog out the center hole for adjustments. The existing hole in a 300 pod is about the size of the bushing for a 400. 
The motor diameter is over 5/32" larger diameter and a much larger center bushing. You will need a large pinion to get it to mesh without interference with the axle. The micro guys have found the 20T works for their gearing. 

I'd like to try the Speed 280BB motor, a different motor entirely from the Speed 280. It has external brushes and I think it has bearings. The torque range and power is less than the all out power of the Speed 300. Although this isn't so bad really because the micro racers that 
have the 280BB say the delivery of the power doesn't have the wind it up tight and release it rubber band style delivery of power the 300 seems to have and they seem to be close in overall speed. It sounds like the 280BB would be more suited to road courses. But testing this has a entry price of $40 is 1/2 price of a new SC18 from Bud via the website. 

RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

We have run against the coreless motors and they are still alot slower than the stock 16D.


----------



## RAFster

Coreless is not necessarily the same as a brushless motor. A brushless can be faster than a coreless motor and requires a specialized ESC or controller.

Here's a good explanation:
Q: What is the difference between a DC coreless motor and a brushless motor?
A: A traditional DC coreless motor has a rotating coil or armature and a stationary excitation magnet. The current is supplied to the rotating coil by a mechanical commutation. You can see an exploded graphical view of this technology here. The brushless DC motor has a reversed construction. That is, the coil acts as the motor stator and is stationary while the magnet is mounted on the rotor and rotates. You can see the detailed construction of this motor here. The commutation of the phases in a brushless motor is electronic instead of mechanical as in traditional DC brush type motors. In servo versions, Hall sensors monitor the commutation sequence. Non servo 2-wire brushless motors are commutated by monitoring back emf.

Q: What are the advantages of brushless motor design?
A: Since the phase commutation of the brushless motor is achieved using an electronic circuit, there is no physical wear as there is in the conventional brush/commutator system of brush type motors. This translates into longer life and greater operational reliability, but usually at a higher cost. Since the windings are placed in the stator, which is in direct contact with ambient air, very good thermal characteristics can be achieved. The lifetime of a brushless motor is usually a function of bearing quality. The lifetime of brushless motors is usually in the tens of thousands of hours, instead of the thousands of hours which is typical of high quality brush type motors. Due to the lack of a mechanical brush-commutator commutation system, brushless motors are also capable of very high rotational speeds. Our smallest brushless motor (1.9mm in diameter) has achieved intermittent speeds of up to 250,000 rpm. Speeds of 20,000 to 50,000 rpm and higher are common. 


This was taken from:
http://www.micromo.com/library/docs/notes&tutorials/Brushless Motor FAQs.htm

Naturally, just like our battery use, RC car motors or batteries do not provide the life expectations noted because we load them a rates far above the manufacter's ratings for intended use.

You probably have raced against the expensive coreless motors but the brushless kick it up another notch and generally are faster and infinitely smoother than the Speed 300. But as I said before, the Brushless setups run from $160 and up...
The newer Astro 010 and Astro 020 airplane motors are brushless motors and they deliver incredible performance for their size. But the price is huge. Far greater than their older siblings of the AstroFlight Cobalt motors.

I should add...coreless motors generally use plastic and glue to hold the windings in place. If subjected to high currents and heating in the windings they can cause the windings to catch the spinning magnets and destroy the motor. The Brushless can experience this failure but generally if they are operated in their recommended range they do not experience excessive heating to cause this failure.
The same should be true of the coreless but the load they see varies with gearing and application. 

RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

WOW!!!!


----------



## BudBartos

Wasser >> How was Lansing? Are you going to make it to Toledo?


----------



## pmelchman

*toledo*

Bud,

Who,What,Where,When,Why.....TOLEDO


Pmelchman


----------



## wazzer

Bud, as of this point, some holiday plans might get in the way of my attendance at Toledo.


----------



## RAFster

*Re: toledo*



pmelchman said:


> *Bud,
> 
> Who,What,Where,When,Why.....TOLEDO
> 
> 
> Pmelchman *


pmelchman >> 
Don't know if you caught it or connected it since you posted. Bud is referring to the CRL Toledo event on 12/15. 
Should be a good turnout...

It would be great to watch. Someone should video tape the A mains at least...
(said as someone who can't be there to enjoy watching the pending battle between Bud's "secret project" and the Reilly's latest.)
If someone taped the qualifiers and mains I'd buy a copy of a tape of it for a price up to $15... Naturally a segment of the video would need to have at least a 30 second view of the prototype cars without their bodies showing top and bottom and side profiles.
Then a shot of all the A main winners with their cars doing close ups to show the paint jobs would be nice.

RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

Guys >> We had a good nite of racing at the Hobby town track! 7 BRP's and 3 Micros. I won with the SC18 pro and Don Smolik was second with his SC18. One note of intrest at this race was the mini mod class my time was 4 laps faster than the TQ in that class. Don was 3 laps faster and they were running 19 turn motors, interesting!
David Spachet was in town for the champs and stopped by. He saw the BRP cars which he had not seen before and thought they were pretty cool. I told him they are like the 1/12th cars we raced 10 years ago.


----------



## Impactplayr

When will we get to see the pics of te new car? Will it be an upgrade? will it work with the FW18 chassis? can we buy a new pro car complete? can we get atlast a spy shot teaser??????


----------



## k1m

*Everyone loves a secret!*

Bud: How about some info on the 2/3A batterys? Are you guys running the 650mah cells? What about the Mod class? I see they make an 1100mah 2/3A also.


----------



## RAFster

*2/3 A battery experience and sources...*

k1m, :wave: 

I know you asked Bud about the 2/3A.
Thought I'd share my experience...I was using some towards the end of the season at CORCAR. I've bought some from Racer Hobbies and others from TNR Technical in FL. They have more punch and power than the AA cells in NiCad or NiMH. 
I've also tried 2/3AA cells NiMH and they have about the same punch and power as the AA NiCads.

I've got a PMR (ProMatched Racing) 6 cell pack I bought from Ray H. (a NORCAR organizer for the carpet season..) and I made the mistake of using the stock HPI whimpy leads instead of replace them with 16ga. wire. It was throttled as a result. 
I loaned the pack to Bud recently but I don't think he's tried it. He's free to reconfigure it for the Pro.

You can get individual "blasted" (voltage enhanced) cells from PMR or Ray.
Ray has a relationship with PMR.

The Racer Hobbies appear to be a mix...GPs I think and otherwise. BOTH packs I opened to rewire were a mix of four cells marked "SANIK Ni-MH 2/3A 1000mAH" and two marked "MH-2/3A1000". 
GP 1000s I hear are good cells. I think the TNR Technical 2/3A I bought are GP 1000s. GPs have a light green shrinkwrap.

Racer Hobbies (ebay seller as well...)

ProMatched Racing 

Ray's user name on the forums is "rayhuang". His name in real life or RL...   BTW, Ray's price was better than direct...a sale I think...

TNR Technical website 

I think Bud told me in email he had some Sanyos and some others that were junk.
Bud, you getting in the 2/3 A source business. If so, some Sanyos would be nice...

FYI, 2/3 A cells in NiCads were the favorite of Speed 400 direct drive and geared drive airplane crowd. Their combined weight and power delivery were the ticket for that class of airplanes to grow to huge levels. 
Sanyo made a 500AR cell that was fast charge/discharge and the 600AE cell which wasn't as power packed. The 500AR was originally a red labelled cell and it was the cell to have because of higher power delivery. They redesigned it and it is no longer as capable. 
The 500 was 500mAH etc...

Hope this helps. Sorry it is so long...

RAFster


----------



## BudBartos

Pictures of the new chassis SC 18 Pro in Carpet racing league Check them out!


----------



## k1m

*SC18 Pro*


----------



## Guest

*MUST.....GET.....*

......CREDIT CARD!!!! Bud when will the Pro be available for order and at what price? What is the difference between the LTO and the PRO? I realize these are premature questions but those pictures are awesome!

Thanks,
Z


----------



## PaulN

Okay.. The cats out ofthe bag. No when can they be ordered?
Soon I hope.


----------



## k1m

Fierce racing at Racers Edge this week - I managed to bump up the track record another lap. Must be the lightweight chassis Bud, "Da Wedge" seems faster than ever, Thanx.
Don was a very close second, infact he led much of the race until a tangle with lap traffic let me get by. I think the micro with F.W. tires was third! 
I talked to one of the other Micro drivers tonite in the pits, he's decided not to race 1/18 scale right now, he's giving 1/12 scale a try. He said he has almost $800 in that Micro he's not going to run!! 

*Is that possible??* Man, I was amazed! Oh, and BTW I found out he has been running the Big Block in it too! No wonder he couldn't keep it on the ozite!
What bothers me is that he's relatively new to R/C and he already has a bad taste for the 1/18 Scale class because he thought if he spent alot of money, he would go fast. And that's just not true.

Bud: The Pro looks awesome, is the rear shock oil filled? Can't wait to try and bleed that little sucker! Are you going to sell the 2/3a batterys? Fun Won PRO? :devil:


----------



## BudBartos

Guys >>> hope to have the Pro chassis by middle of Dec. It will be just a chassis upgrade Don't know the price yet but between $50.00 and $75.00!
I will keep all informed!
K1m>> You can use the chassis with the SC Fun Wons Just put your front end on it and I may offer it with a Fun Wons from plate.
Talked to some big shots from one of my dist. The Micro mania is over. It only took one year. Yes $800.00 is easy I had one tell me he had $1,200.00 in it but I think that included radio. Maybe thats why the sales are off, Ya think???
The BRP's have been around for a long time and I plan to keep them around :thumbsup:


----------



## RAFster

k1m can you run the 2/3A cells?
Try the PMR cells. 

Probably the mediocre performance even after dumping $$$ in them has soured people on them. Maybe HPI was looking to rebuild the car and make it faster. Maybe they were looking to incorporate a ball diff design that was proven and works well. I really couldn't believe they put gear diffs in the car. Tamiya has been so ragged on so much in the RC car press for their use of gear diffs that I am surprised HPI went that route.

Hopefully this souring of the market won't affect the 18th scale class...
Shouldn't locally but overall a lot of distributors with LOTS of stock on hand will be closing it out...
They will not be willing to stock other ventures like this, even if it is another manufacturer. They will be gun shy of things for a bit...

Amazing failure of the "Car Of the Year" market.

RAFster


----------



## k1m

RAFster: technically we are supposed to run AA's only:

Any BRP 1/18 scale chassis (Oval Outlaw, Super O.O., Fun Wons, SC18) 
Any BRP 1/18 scale body 
No performance enhancing alterations other than BRP (present and future) are allowed. 
Please use the supplied stock motor, there is really no need to buy a faster one folks (remember that FUN element here) 
6 cells or less of any MAH AA battery ONLY (need not be BRP) 
Reversing ESCs are allowed

I'd like to do some testing with the 2/3A cells....we're working on it and hope to try out the Watt Age 370 soon. We will try the PMR cells as well. Maybe a mod class Ovalman?

Thanx for sharing all that info you have RAFster, Please keep it up!

ZENFLEA: I haven't seen anything myself, but I think the PRO version is a saddle pack configuration for the batterys (3 on one side, 3 on the other) and the LTO is Left turn only (all 6 cells on left side).


----------



## SecretSquirrel

There are pictures of Bud's new chassis on the Mini RC Carpet Racing League thread. Near the end. Or the link below will show you one of the pictures Bud posted.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?s=&postid=308905

SS


----------



## k1m

*Bud:*

Fun Wons are too fun not to share! Zip Zaps are cute.......but come on!!!!
BRP Rules!


----------



## RAFster

BTW, If you are building a 2/3A pack for the SC18 the battery tray will hold 5 A cells side by side. 3 cells end to end are too tight for the tray.

So, a 5 side-by-side with the other cell centered one end or the other will give good chassis balance. If you have tweak to deal with and your ESC is heavy or the receiver and you need the added weight on one side to balance the chassis you will need to play with the placement of cell #6 to balance the chassis. 

RAFster


----------



## OvalmanPA

*Mod BuRP*

Dunno...........maybe. Seems everyone keeps putting other things on them that aren't really stock anyway so maybe we'll just run everyone "outlaw". I just hate it for those of us that run for fun and don't really take it seriously. I mean the biggest improvements to mine are a turnbuckle setup for steering on Moms and a bearing instead of bushing in the diff gears on both. Our motors are even the originals that came with them.  Rules changes are in order though since we now have micros running I guess.


----------



## Nil

Running a "mod" class and a "stock" class at Classic worked out well. The main difference was motors and batteries, if you don't include Bud's prototypes.

There are several groups trying to come up with a workable formula. If everyone keeps experimenting, things should shake out eventually.

I'm reminded of the beginnings of the Can-Am racing formula, which was rumored to be a series of phone calls between Jim Hall and someone (maybe Bruce McClaren?). Each call would end with, "I'll get back to you," and they would run to the garage, measure their cars, and start negotiating again.


----------



## RAFster

*NiMH batteries and drawbacks...*

You know, I've known of some drawbacks with the NiMH packs. 
One of which is higher IR values for the cells that only go up as you go to smaller cells. This is part of the reason the AAA NiMH packs don't work well for the SC18, no punch. Weight is ideal, but it doesn't deliver the power at the level we need it.
The proper charging methods so you don't destroy the packs are also needed. I use a Novak Millenium charger (older one capable of .4mV/cell detection.) So, I don't overcharge or the charger look for a heavier overcharge peak (NiMH peak rather softly compared to NiCads) I reduce the charger's cell count by one cell and reduce the Voltage threshold to 4mV/cell setting. Sometimes they false peak but overall this keeps the cells from overheating from overcharge. NiMH packs will overheat to a critical level if they are overcharged.

SR batteries is a very well respected name in RC aircraft batteries. They produce very high reliability packs that are Mil-Spec rated and one of their customers is NASA. THey are pricey but everyone I know who uses them loves them. They only sell NiCads and they publically had not had a stance on NiMH cells and Lithium cells. 

Check out the SR Batteries info regarding their personal opinion on NiMH and LIthium cells. 

I wonder if you can get 5 minutes out of a 500AR cell or 600AE cell in NiCd.
I don't think we see the reciever drop out problem using 7.2 volts for a pack. But, if you start glitching then it could be because of this. If it coresponds to hard acceleration, then it probably is this problem. The Radio priority circuitry in some receivers works better than others and the ESCs are getting better. Whether or not it works fast enough for NiMH packs when it was designed to work with NiCds is the question.

So, NiMH packs aren't the magic cure all. They require a proper charger and they can't be handled roughly. 
Sounds like I need to reconfigure a set of the old 500ARs before Sanyo redesigned them and see how they do...find out if they wlll go the distance.

RAFster


----------



## Larry

Hello,
I am very interested in the new prototype sc-18 car, is there any info on when these will be available? Forgive me if this is a redundant question, I have been out of the loop for a while!

Thanks,
Larry


----------



## 2slow00

Larry, Bud is trying to get them out by mid December. Bud and my son raced them Sunday and they are awsome.:roll:


----------



## k1m

Ovalman: I know what you mean about "run for fun", I don't want to see that change either. I just can't help myself though, I have to strive for "MORE POWER". That comes from my job, and I feel that way about everything, not just R/C. I can't look at anything without wondering how it would work if I changed this or that. So I've been pretty careful not to add bearings, or tie rods, etc but I've just gotta see how this other motor (cost-$10) and 2/3 cells work. I'll just do some testing during practice.

Larry: Check some of the past posts (last page and other threads)everything thats been released so far is right here.

RAFster: Sounds like you're right on the money about NiMH. We've been running them since early last year and have been very happy. One other thing I'd add to the care and feeding is that they don't like to be stored discharged. Charge them right up if you're not going to run them for a while, they seem to like that better.


----------



## RAFster

I went by CAPSTONE HOBBIES in Westerville, closest hobby shop to my home, to pickup some things. The Hitec screws were on the rack and the WattAge 370 I ordered was in the case. Guess they didn't tag my order...so I felt no obligation to buy after discovering this. Hobby People must have an excellent discount on this motor ($9.99) because
Capstone priced it at $14.99. So, if several of you want to play with the WattAge 370 (An equivalent to the Speed 300 6V motor or the Big Block motor without the SMD capacitor circuit board) go together and order three and split the shipping charges. At $6.50 for priority that is ~$2.20, roughly $11.20 for the motor. Given you can order 5 for that same shipping amount, it would be a way to make the price a few dollars cheaper.

The Speed 300 7.2V motor is available, Capstone had them for $13.99. They were rated at 12k rpm no load at 7.2V drawing less than 2A.
The 6V Speed 300 is rated at 29k rpm no load at 6V drawing 5A. 
The 7.2V motor appears to be much less capable than the 6V motor...unless you are pumping 9.6V into it... But, 7.2V into the 6V motor makes them pretty strong. Great for drag racing but not so good for road courses and marginal on the oval I hear...
But with someone like Rich, Don, and Bud they can make it look easy for the Speed 300.

RAFster


----------



## MaddMatt

*New ESC's*

Hi all!

it's been along time but I finally got back to this site. I have an esc question. I am looking for a new one as the duratrax blast and esc-100 both were discontinued. The problem? I don't want one touch.

Has anyone tried the traxxas XL-1? The price is right and no one touch.

Thanks

Madd Matt


----------



## pmelchman

*upcoming race dates*

Bud,

can you please repeat the upcoming race dates, Akron and Toledo? Any directions to the mall in Toledo?

Thank You

:thumbsup:


----------



## SecretSquirrel

The Toledo track is at the same mall as the Gas track. It is at Woodville Mall. I dont know for sure, but from Cleveland I would take I-80 East to I-280 North. Exit at Exit 6 (Ohio Route 51 Curtice/ Woodville Rd). Go East 2-3 miles to the Woodville Mall. Go around the back of the mall and you will see the gas track.

Or use the link below and get directions to there.

http://www.mapquest.com/maps/map.ad...te=OH&zipcode=&homesubmit.x=55&homesubmit.y=6

SS


----------



## BudBartos

pmelcman >> Toledo Dec 15th Classic Jan 11th if OK with Walt!


----------



## Impactplayr

MaddMatt- the XL-1 is way too big for a BRP car, I am afraid you won't be able to get away from the one0touch speedos..... why do you have a problem with the one touch set-up??? when you take your time the new speedos are much easier to set-up and hold the setting forever....... I like the Futaba MC230, and set-up is a snap, just hold the button until the light starts flashing, pull full throttle and hit the button agian, ull full break and hit the button agian, then let the throttle in teh neutral position and hit the button agian..... your done!


----------



## ChrisHarris

*clearence questions*

Just got back from my local track here in MA., R/C Excitement. They just finished their micro track. Like their off-road track, this sucker is tight! Couple of the corners can't be wider than 2' across. There wasn't anybody else there but me and my beat up old SC18 so I didn't get to embarrass myself too badly. 

One immediate problem though was clearence. This track is a resurfaced asphalt floor in an old warehouse and I seemed to be bottoming out a lot more than I should. The front of the chassis is totally scraped up. I had some loose motor bracket screws that were also scraping so I don't know which made more noise but it is pretty clear my car sits a bit too low. I don't see anything that could be done about that other than new tires. Can somebody tell me the "normal" O.D. of a set of tires? My foams may just be so worn that I have lost that extra that I need. Can I run Fun Won wheels and tires? what sort of gearing change would be needed?

Thanks in Advance!


----------



## Micro_Racer

ChrisHarris--you may want to try the SC-18 HPI tire adapters...the tire diameter is larger than the stock.....


----------



## RAFster

*Michigan micros taking a beating*

You guys should read this...do we know who was racing the BRP at Larry's in Sterling Heights?

http://www.yourmicro.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12&highlight=SC18

RAFster


----------



## MaddMatt

*poo micros*

Rafster:

You know, every once in a while I feel sorry for the micro guys 

I have people tell me all the time that I should be running micros. I tell them that I tried but I couldn't keep up with the repairs, slow laps and constant need for hop-ups to compete.

Stock is good

Madd Matt


----------



## Nil

You're right, that's sad. Kinda reminds me of full size racing, though. If you can't beat 'em, *outlaw 'em!*


----------



## k1m

*Hate to keep beating a dead horse*

but.......One of the few guys that race a micro with us was running an old set of Fun Won tires I gave him with some sucess. He paid big bucks for some new 1/12 scale fronts with more rubber on them, but now he's back to traction rolling because roll center is so much higher.


----------



## MaddMatt

*esc's*

Everyone has recomended the stock futaba but what is the deal with it pulsing if the transmitter is off? Does this mean if my gun is off, the thing will start jumping until I turn it off?

One last check, anyone try the hitec 520?

Thanks again for the help

Madd Matt


----------



## aeracer

*Futaba ESC*

MaddMatt,
The Futaba one-touch speed controls beep to warn you that the ESC is not receiving a signal from the transmitter.


----------



## RAFster

*Madd Matt*

Madd Matt,

That's a feature like Bud pointed out...maybe an annoying one, but still a feature.

You didn't race with CORCAR this summer did you? There was a Matt from Buffalo region that raced with CORCAR a couple times...he ran a Micro RS4 though.

RAFster
David


----------



## MaddMatt

*esc's and more*

A micro RS4?

Please, I could never put myself through that! 

I haven't raced with you guys yet but I am hoping to make a couple of races this upcoming summer. I figure I have a ton of hours racing buds cars and it would be great to really open it up and have some fun with them

The futaba won't work for me then as I can't have that beeping and pulsing. Anyone using the hitec 520? or can you recemend another? I would even go so far as to get a one touch if I absolutely needed to 

Thanks

Madd Matt


----------



## k1m

*MC230CR*

Wait a minute....What beeping and pulsing? Not unless you have your radio turned off! If it's not acting right with your transmitter on, somethings not set right. But you should always leave your transmitter on until you turn your car off. We're running 2 Futaba MC230CR's in Fun Wons and are very happy with their performance AND price. If you want to spend more money and give up reverse, get an Atom.


----------



## RAFster

Micro_Racer has raved about his Quantum Pro with Reverse. Smaller than all mentioned with reverse. The MC230CR does a nice job but it only pulses and beeps when it isn't getting signal when there is a problem that the transmitter is turned off or you have a reception problem. It actually helps tell you the receiver isn't getting the sanity signal of being on...
The ATOM gives you a super race ESC. 
I think the LRP Quantum series gives the same or better performance.

RAFster
David


----------



## Micro_Racer

I LOVE my LRP Quantum w/Reverse....I have had 4 ESC's and the LRP is by far the best....


----------



## gordonmoney

*madd matt*

Any speed control is going to twitch and go out of control if the car is on and the transmitter(gun) is off


----------



## MaddMatt

*esc search continues*

Thanks for the help everybody!

The reason I have concern about the transmitter being off is because the way we run the cars the transmitter is off right up until the start of the race. It's just one of those things I have to do for the rental business.

My current duratrax esc-100's are bulky and outdated but work great. I will check out all the others. I had been looking at the LRP and will look again.

On the positive side, I need to order my new radios and esc's on Monday so this discusion will be over soon!:thumbsup: 

Thanks again!

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com


----------



## MaddMatt

*esc's again*

I checked out the LRP and it looks great except a power switch would be nice, so I am thinking the F1 w/ reverse.

I am guessing the extra $10 difference between the runner gets me the power switch and that's about it.

Thanks for all the input. I'll make sure to check back one more time before ordering on monday!

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com


----------



## Impactplayr

power switch and a brake... the runner has absolutely no brakes!!!!


----------



## marioparnelli

:wave: Just a reminder that Classic Hobbies of Akron will be running a Hangover race New Years day. Doors will open at 9:00am with racing starting at 1:00pm.


----------



## MaddMatt

*front post mount*

I think I am the only one who has this problem but has anyone else out there broken off the front post mount over the servo?

I am hoping there is an easy replacement or substitute mount that won't break off after a bunch of hits on the wall. Mine cracks off right at the bend. I can tape it down with duct tape and it will hold for a while but I am looking for a more permanent solution

Thanks

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com


----------



## Guest

The new front bumper should help save that part.


----------



## MaddMatt

*front bumper?*

I haven't heard of this. Is Bud offering it or it from somewhere else?


----------



## k1m

*SC Pro*

At last, pics of the allusive Pro rear suspension:








more:
http://www.brpracing.com/175.html 

MadMatt: check out the BRP front bumper thread:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37941


----------



## MaddMatt

*front bumpers*

Thanks for the heads-up. Hopefully this wil savethe front mounts from cracking so often! 

I'll call bud and order some with my next order!

Madd Matt


----------



## BudBartos

Madd matt>> Hope to have them ready end of week.
K1m >> Thanks for the update link your stuff will go out on thursday

Happy New Year :hat:


----------



## rcnerd

*BuRP's RULE!!!*

Hello, all! My name is RCNERD and I'm from calgary, Canada. My local track is a very small and informal scene where we race 1/12 scale and 1/18 scale (up til now this meant HPI micro RS4). I've raced 1/12
for a while, but I was reluctant to join the 1/18 class since I had watched my friends drop huge coin to make their HPI micros handle well for racing. I've seen a lot of people talking about the relative merits of the BRP SC18 vs. the Micro RS4, and as someone who has been in the hobby nearly two decades, I thought I'd throw my $0.02 in!! In my opinion the micro was never designed to race on carpet. It is a much better car for playing around (i.e. unprepared or inappropriate surfaces such as asphalt, gym floors, your driveway, basement, etc), but the SC18 is a carpet racing pan car, and in this environment it will excel. Has anyone out there ever tried running a 1/12 pan car in an unprepared parking lot or parkade? I was hardly able to get mine up to top speed when I tried. What I am trying to say is that pan cars rule on carpet, and even a 4-cell 1/12 car can be competitive on carpet against a 6-cell 4WD touring car or mini (not micro).
HEY BUD!!! I'm sorry to hear that advertising dollars=fair magazine coverage, but I should have guessed it was so, why should our industry be any less corrupt than the rest. I want you and all readers of this board to know that the BRP sc-18 kicks ass, is very cool, fast, etc, AND handles great with no extras (yes the ball diff is an option, but other than that!)
Anyway, I'll quit rambling and close like this: Thanks to all!!
RCNERD


----------



## Cain

Hey All, :wave:

I am interested in getting into 1/18 scale racing, but don't know where to begin. I am pretty impressed with the BRP cars, and I think I will go with the Fun WONs. I just have a few questions:

1) what performance difference will I notice between teh SC18 and the Fun WOns?

2) stock setting wise, what is faster out of the box, micro RS4 or SC?

3) what hopups do you recommend right away to have the car perform correctly on carpet?

4) are there any bodies I should steer more too for handling?

5) what would be a good cheap servo to use, one that you don't mind cutting the ears off of ?

6) What battery packs do you recommend for the kit? buying BRP's or building your own NIMH packs? If building your own, what are good cells to use?

7) what exactly is the motor that comes with the kit?

8) what are weak breakage areas of the vehicle that I should look out for?

9) how well does the kit go on thicker household carpet?

10) What is a good speedo to use?

11) what gauge wire do you recommend?

12) what amp should I charge the packs at?

13) I currently have JR XR3 reciever and a novak cyclone speedo to use, would these work well or is this overkill? 


I think that about does it for now. I am really interested in this so feel free to give suggestions and experiences.

Thanks!


----------



## Donalbain

*Cain: A few answers...*

1. Perhaps none. K1m has both and may have a better answer for you.

2. SC18 on carpet.

3. Ball Diff, that's it!

4. I don't believe so. We have many styles at our track and none seem faster than another.

5. I'm a Futaba guy. The standard 3003 fits fine. You could spend about the same $ for the 3101 which is a mini servo(less weight).

6. Any. Many use the 700Mah nicads. I use 1200Mah nimhs.

7. Parma 16turn slotcar motor. I believe they come with the XP magnets installed.

8. There isn't any, these things are tanks!:thumbsup:

9. It's bumpier going on household carpet.

10. Any with reverse. Many at our track are using the Futaba MC230cr($50).

11. Which ever you feel comfortable working with.

12. Somewhere between .5 to 2 amps should do it.

13. The Cyclone is overkill. And no reverse. I use a Novak XXL reciever.

Hope that gives you some idea!


----------



## OvalmanPA

I'll add to the answers I guess or agree with Don on most of them.

1. Not running a SC18 much I have no definite answer but it seems they are pretty similar. The SC18 does appear to have one disadvantage, it seems a little "unstable" as compared to the SC18 Fun Won. Like Don said, K1M should give you a better feel on this one.

2. SC18 from our experience.

3. Ball diff like Don said. They work well without it but better with.

4. With a SC18 FW I would say no. With a SC18 there are probably some that handle better than others just like with a TC. I would say the stock car or vette body would give you a little more speed handling whereas the truck bodies a little more steering.....all theory however. 

5. Futaba 148, 3003, or as Don said, mini servo.

6. Most of us run 1200 mah NiMH cells at out track but from what Bud says they have good luck with 1000 mah 2/3 As also.

7. Actually, I believe the name is Super 16D slot car motor.  According to Parmas catalog, the Deathstar is a 16D (70T) and the Super 16D is a 60T.

8. Break areas? There aren't really any. The stock tie-rod and collar setup is a little prone to bending but other than that like Don said they are tanks.

9. SC18 FW would be your best bet on thicker carpet because of the bigger tires (more ride height).

10. Futaba MC230CR. Tiny size, smooth, and cheap.

11. Amp draw isn't a problem so like Don said, work with a comfy size.

12. Agree with Don on this one. I just got some new packs and started charging at 1.5 amps, previously I charged at .80.

13. I'd say it was overkill but since you have those items already it will save you some $$$ to start. The only problem is not having reverse if you are just playing.

Good luck with your purchase!


----------



## MaddMatt

*Questions*

1) I had always heard the the fun wons were a little faster but the lower sc18 had better cornering. this is only what I picked up, though. I run SC18's

2) Out of the box there is no comparison, you'll blow the doors off the micro

3) I concur... ball dif

5) I use tock futaba's i also tried the tower house brand. No problems with either.

8) i use these cars for rentals and therefore have 6 yr olds crashing and bashing all day long. The only weakpoint I found was the front mount but on one of the other threads there was an easy fix.

Those were the only ones I could weigh in on. Hope that helps! Go BRP and you won't be sorry. They are great cars.

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com


----------



## RAFster

While it is true the Cyclone will be overkill you can use it with no problems. If it is lying about unused or you don't want to go buy another, then use it...
There are smaller and lighter ESCs on the market if you want to buy one. The LRP Quantum Series with Reverse is good or you can pickup the MC230CR ($50) for less money for a reversing ESC. I've used the Cyclone and the MC230CR. 
The Cyclone can potentially give you faster lap times by providing higher output since it is a racing or competition ESC, but given it's older design it does sacrificing the reverse capability. (Reverse must be turned off or not used for most racing venues.)

Most of the micro servos can be mounted without cutting off the ears.
They can pose other mounting issues if you use the stock front body mount method because of the very small contact area.

If you don't mind the weight the standard size servo can be used without the mounting ears... Given the inexpense of standard sized servos these day ($8) it is a small cost. 

As far as packs go...if you intend to race then you need to build or buy what will be legal for racing in your area.
If you are just playing around, then high capacity NiMH would be the way to go if you have a charger that can properly feed them and care for them...

RAFster
David


----------



## k1m

*Cain's questions*

You've already got alot of answers, they're all good ones. Where else can you get service like that? We like to help out new mini racers because we know you're going to have a good time.

The SC18 is more scale in appearance, lighter, and faster in the right hands. Fun Wons offer a certain look all of their own with the big tires and are more forgiving to drive. The added ground clearance is a plus if the surface you run on is very uneven. They're both awesome in their own way and most of the main parts are interchangeable.

Hopups? Ball Differential - first.

The only thing I've broken so far is servo gears (before I put on a servo saver) and a body post.

Unless you have a BIG house, stick to the ozite or backtop.

Have Fun!


----------



## Donalbain

K1m has brought up an exellent point:thumbsup:with the servo saver. I had taken that one for granted.


----------



## rcnerd

Just a quick tip on building batterys for sc-18: SCX slot car pickup braid makes graeat, light, thin "battery bar"-great for our scale!! Part #SCX86140, $1.00 is four pcs. of brai, which can be cut in half to make 8 batt braids. HOPE THIS HELPS!!
:wave:


----------



## Cain

Thanks for all the answers. Its great to see all the responses. I have been considering these kind of vehicles for awhile now as I run a XXX-S but the smaller car appeals to me and my wife, plus, with a baby on the way its not much in the cost department compared to other things.

So, for the battery packs, I am assuming assembly pretty much goes the same as when assembling our sub-c cells? Are there any types I should stick too?

I am considering getting a XXL reciever to use, will my stock XR3 reciever be too big if I use my cyclone?

what gauge wire do you guys run? I right now use 14 gauge (12 too much for my powerpoles).

Thanks again for all the great answers. Any mail order places you recommend?


----------



## 2slow00

Cain I run the Cyclone with a standard size Airtronic servo with no problem. We use 700 Sanyo AA in stock class and you can run 2/3 A cells in mod. I build my own packs but a lot of racers buy Buds packs. I don't use the tamiya type plugs. I switched to the gold Trinity post type,they give you more room. Most of us use 16 Gauge wire for 1/18th and 12th scale. BRP also stocks the wire. Everyone has given you good advise glad to help.:thumbsup:


----------



## Cain

Hey all, I got my SC18 off of ebay directly from Bud. Excited to try the kit out. Now to organize the parts. I am picking up the following right away:

1) Ball Differential
2) Front Orange Compound Tires

I am going to hold off on the big block kit till I get better at racing  Also need to find out what the spec battery pack is at the track for the stock class. Few more questions:

1) what is the stock pinion that comes with the car?
2) does it pay to have a complete set of pinions for the car or do you pretty much stick with just one size?
3) anyone know of a good site with examples of making your own battery packs?
4) any motor maintenance recommendations? (spraying it out, lubing, etc?)
5) how much of a difference do you notice with a big block motor on? (later down the road :devil: )
6) Anyone recommend some micro sized servos for a good price that will work with JR stuff with minimal modification?

Looking at the racing examples on the website the cars seem to handle really well. Probably won't have the kit racing for little over two weeks, but still will be fun to get it all ready  


Thanks for all the info.


----------



## rcnerd

Hello, Cain! I'm new to the BRP cene, but I'll take a stab at the questions I can answer!
1)9 tooth (I think)
2)no-the easiest way to gear is high (stock spur from ball diff, 46 tooth) or low (optional 52 spur) If this doesn't do it for you, then use pinions, but it is best to have a motor for each pinion, since the pinions are press on.
3)no
4)Bud reccomends not messing with it too much, just clean every week or three, don't even take out the brushes, oil very lightly weekly.
5)Lots!(or so I've heard) I am currently experimenting with several motors-orion big block, elite mod, speed 300 6v, sp 300 7.2v, speedex 300 6v, chubby,etc. I willpost my results.
6) I don't reccomend a micro servo, they are not strong enough for cars (even metal gears)if you do not use a standard size then you have to use a post type front body mount, the stock one sticks to the servo and doesn't get enough grip on smaller servos. I reccomend a mini servo (1/12 size) such as th futaba s132h and a regular front body mount, which incedently makes body height adjustment much easier.USE A SERVO SAVER!!!
Good Luck!!


----------



## 2slow00

Cain 9 tooth is the stock pinion We usually only change pinions on the oval. And as rcnerd said its much easier to change spurs. I know some have changed in on road but I think all went back to the 9. Stay away from the big block unless you love speed.I have one and couldn't handle the power. I will try again with te new chassis. Good luck with your new car, Ithink you will be impessed.


----------



## Cain

hmm, didn't know there was a difference between mini and micro servos. I try to stick with hitec brands, any recommendations on which servos are good from them?

Also, what servo savers do you recommend?


----------



## Cain

I am going to go with a standard size servo, just hate having to cut off the ears so my 945MG won't get used. How low a transit time is good for the vehicle? How much torque do you think is needed as a minimum?


Thanks again!


----------



## rcnerd

*servos*

Cain, in my opimion, the only advantage to a smaller servo is less overall weight. Any servo mini or bigger ( ie the size of a fut 132h and bigger is fine. Transit time not really an issuse, torque neither.
Important: Dual Rates!

It can be difficult to set up the car to get full steering w/o the sevo stalling (not good)!! Dual rates are good , steering EPA (end point adcjustment) better!!
I do not personnally reccomend HITEC servos for cars, except for their full size ones, or extra heavy- duty mini ones. I Have had many broken hitec servos being broughtin to the hobby store where I work part-time. I reccomend airtronics servos for quality!

Don't waste money use a $10 std servo to start.:roll:


----------



## rcnerd

*servos*

SERVOS:
Standard: you know the big ones, like a fut s148 or 3003
mini: 1/12 size, like fut 132h/s3002-good for 1/12-1/18 scale
micro:like fut s3101-not durable enough for cars
sub micro:even smaller and fragiler (yeah not a word i know)
nano: freakin' tiny for 280 and smaller AIRPLANES only!
hope this helps!

PS most servo cases are available to replace your Van Gough (earless wonder)!!
GOOD RACIN"


----------



## Cain

thanks for the advice guys.

I have had good luck with hitec servos, but I will keep what you said in mind and make sure to get a servo saver. any recommendations for one?

Ok, so transit time isn't important? Sounds good then. I will just pick up some cheapos and go from there.

ok, here's a question:

1) where is a good place to get battery braid or whatever I need to assemble my own battery packs? (ie- tower hobbies). 

2) what size shrink wrap tubing I should use over the batteries?

3) What cells do you recommend to build the packs with?

4) I am looking at the MC230CR, anyone know of a good speedo with 6V output to the servo? I hate to have to get a MC330CR for that but I like the extra power.

5) how well does velcro-ing the reciever work? I am budgeting this so I don't want to pick up another FM one right now (i have a XR3 FM radio). If it works well, any particular brand to go with and any available on RC mail order places?

I just want to make sure I get everything I need right away.

Thanks again. I am excited to get my kit in. I also downloaded the building tips they had on the brp website. I probably will still race my XXX-S to see how that goes but I am excited about running the micro too


----------



## RAFster

Some folks take 12 gauge copper house wire and hammer it to 1/8 inch wide. I've used Radio Shack desoldering braid for AA cell packs. 
I use shrink wrap designed for stick packs that my local hobby shop has for sub-C packs. I shrinks fine for AA cells.

If you go with Nicads, just fine for stock and general use, Sanyo 700AAC cells perform well. Tower normally has Sanyo 700s on sale often. Buy a dozen and build 2 packs. 
If you use the lighter NiMH cells you wil l need a charger capable of handling the cells appropriately and the 2/3A cells perform pretty well. The ProMatched Racing cells are good but you would probably be happy with the cells Bud mentioned to find the cells.
http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?3=204
It is a good deal and the cells perform very well. 

MC230CR has performed well for me. You don't need a fast servo or a high torque servo. Increasing the voltage increase both the speed and torque output of the servo.
You need dual rates and end point adjustments on the steering to turn it down enough. 

Velcro works ok but servo tape can be removed as easily.
The Novak XXL is a nice FM receiver that is very popular with racers.
www.hobbypeople.net has pretty good prices on some radio gear. Please note, I think the JR uses a negative shift on
the frequency instead of the positive shift that Futaba and Hitec use. I may have it reverse... So, if you have a JR radio you need to check that you get a JR compatible receiver and use JR crystals in the receiver and transmitter.

RAFster


----------



## Cain

RAFSter:

What do you think of the 1600mah NiMH AA cell packs that the website you referred me to used to sell? I am able to get some of these off of somebody I know new, but want to know how good they are first. I have an integy 16x3 v2.5 Pro charger so i can set the amp rate and monitor the voltage, capacity, etc with the charger.


----------



## Cain

what is the advantage of the 2/3A cells over the AA cells? I see that one website you referred me to (batteryspace.com) has a wide selection of cells, some with tabs, some without, etc. What do you guys recommend? for the prices, a lot of the cells are easily affordable. But what do you go with? 1300mah, 1600mah, ,1800mah? Nicad vs NiMh? Anyone with some answers on this? I just want to make sure I get the right stuff. Thanks!:roll:


----------



## rcnerd

Cain: I'd pretty much agree with RAFster on all. I reccomend kimbrough servo savers. Tamiya are also good. I use the braid to build packs, but buy it as slot car power pickup brushes. It is very similar to the desoldering braid. I keep my packs in plastic organizers and they can't touch so I don't wrap, just ca together. I have had good luck with the sanyo 700 yellow cells and with the green (ni-cd) KR-1100-AAU. Great voltage w/ both, the 1100's cost a lot more. If I did not have a line on cheap cells (as I do) I would probably choose BRP's packs for both convinence and value. I personally am not a big fan of ni-mh, except for TX (my opinion only) I think ni-cad offer better value, punch, reliability and longevity. As well some of the "ni-mh friendly" chargers that are in use at my track seem to heat the packs excessivly. Stay away from ni-mh that is not speciffically reccomended for rapid charge and discharge, or they will not be punchy.

THESE ARE MY OPINIONS ONLY!! GOOD LUCK!!!


----------



## Cain

thanks for the advice.

Anyone with experiences with the 2/3A or other cells I wrote about? 

Thanks again!


----------



## pmelchman

*2/3a*

I was wondering how come the guys that run the 2/3A battery only run 4 cells insteaad of 5 cells ( AA pack)?

melchman


----------



## RAFster

Bud and Don I think have used the cells from the site which I made reference. They found the cells to have good performance. 
I have some of this brand of cell and it is pretty good. 
The Nicads will provide more punch than the NiMH cells. You trade duration for punch.
The 1000 or 1100 mAH NiMH cells provide enough duration for modified class motors for the 5 minute runs typical.
Would a 700 mAH or 600 mAH cell provide 
enough power?

RAFster


----------



## k1m

Melch: Everyone I know who races, runs 6 cell 7.2V packs whether they're AA, C, or 2/3A. Voltage is speed. Some people run less cells if space is limited, or to keep crash damage low.

Cain: Man, you DO have alot of questions! 
A pack of 2/3A cells weigh about .5 oz less than AA's and their capacity (1000mah) seems to be plenty to power even the big block motor for racing. I've done alittle testing on my own and find the two very similar on and off the track. Price and longevity will be the next thing.

RAFster: Try the Shoe Goo yet?


----------



## Cain

yeah, i am the question king 

I just want to nail everything down to make sure I got all the stuff I need.

I read some of the posts and I noticed that people were going to the super magnets, should I look about doing this right away or just run the car as is to see how things go first?

I think that about wraps it up. I probably will go with AA NiMHs, probably 1600MAH unless anyone has a reason why not too. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## Cain

I got 4 packs of the AA 1600mah NiMH coming in. Now to get a speedo and cheap servo. My wife is pretty cool about all this, she wants me to still race my XXX-S I was thinking of selling it.


----------



## DSI

SC18 review at one18th
http://www.one18th.com/reviews.php?action=view&id=57


----------



## Nil

DSI said:


> *SC18 review at one18th
> *


 Sounds like a "Yes" to me.


----------



## Micro_Racer

This was a very good review! I liked the part:
"I wouldn’t suggest putting it together without the on-line color PDF you can get off BRP’s website"


----------



## rcnerd

Good review...but it's not *that* hard to assemble!!!

If you've built *any* car before you'll likely find it easy.


----------



## Cain

I would disagree with you rcnerd, i have built my fair share of vehicles and at times the instructions leave you in the dark, even the online ones. I think more pictures of what goes in to what would work better, the color manual is good, but they do leave out some things. Been spoiled too much by losi and associated 

The car is amazing though, and I got my fun wons all set, and love the sc18 still. Really great cars.


----------



## BudBartos

Nice review and web site.


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## Guest

*Almost ready...*

Well I'm almost ready to go.....just finished shortening and routing the servo, ESC and switch leads and took a couple pics. A new mini servo saver and the front body mount will be the last parts to get mounted.....by monday night I figure I'll be finished painting the body and then tuesday or wednesday can be test day. 

Took it to the local micro track saturday in nearly the state it's in now, lots of eeww's and aahh's :thumbsup: Expect it will see lots of use next saturday too !!


----------



## Guest

*Question ?*

The LRP Quantum Sport I have in the car came with a diode, do I need to use it on the 16D motor ?


----------



## k1m

I don't think you really need it, but give it a try and see if it runs cooler or the brakes work better and let us know.


----------



## Guest

*Thankyou BRP !*

Mr.Bartos , My kit just came Great Service and thanks for emailing me back on kit # I ordered . Placed another order today but I should have called in the first order and asked for help with what I would need but I think im good to go now  ,, Thanks again, :thumbsup: Ed


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## k1m

ERL: Bud's almost as fast at shipping orders as he is on the track!


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## Nil

Well, after a night of racing (or, in my case, kissing the boards), I have a set up that has kept the HS81MG in place on my SC18. After taping it down, as usual, I put a layer of ShooGoo all around the front and sides. It seems to be holding well.

I am using a turnbuckle set up similar to 1/12 cars, and body mount posts instead of the bent plastic mount. I hope to get pictures up soon.


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## EvaderAndy

k1m said:


> You've already got alot of answers, they're all good ones. Where else can you get service like that? We like to help out new mini racers because we know you're going to have a good time.
> 
> The SC18 is more scale in appearance, lighter, and faster in the right hands. Fun Wons offer a certain look all of their own with the big tires and are more forgiving to drive. The added ground clearance is a plus if the surface you run on is very uneven. They're both awesome in their own way and most of the main parts are interchangeable.
> 
> Hopups? Ball Differential - first.
> 
> The only thing I've broken so far is servo gears (before I put on a servo saver) and a body post.
> 
> Unless you have a BIG house, stick to the ozite or backtop.
> 
> Have Fun!



I don't know kim all I did was change my pinion and got me too the 30 lap culp sure it help but it helps more is first learning to drive like rick told me that a wise man once said to drive fast you must first learn to drive.


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## OvalmanPA

Very wise grasshopper.


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## DWBryan

BRP + Improve products = Still #1
Maybe I'm missing a point but The $ value is defently BRP, there has been a couple of high $ other brand here that recieved the SMOKED syndrome from the BRP OLD style... thus saying to me they are a waist of time and effort.
Just to add a new entisement to the 1/18 scale racing, here at the Schoolyard this year all 1/18 scale will have a flat $2 per car entery fee when racing on Saturday or Sunday 11:00am.
240ft concrete oval Stock & Bigblock/Mod & 6 cell packs.
Perhaps I just havent seen the best of the other brand perform.. but at this point I'll keep banging my chest for BRP and tarzan yelling the VICTORY celibration of Bud's being UNBEATABLE in cost and performance.
On my carpet flat oval they dominated and out on the super slab they TOTALLY RULED.
With non-peaked 6 cell 1100ma nicd batteries I turned a 7.21 on the concrete. I took a used set of foams (kit std) and caped them with a bicycle inner tube glued with plyobond rubber contact cement and that did the trick.
Id love to get a supper rubber like what BSR uses on thier caps for them.. but untill that time this will work and work well.
Wana see the track? www.rcspeedway.net


----------



## Guest

*just won a new sc18 on ebay.... yeah!!*

I just won a sc18 on ebay.. new in box... I'm hoping it will arrive by next weekend.. Maybe next payday I can order the rear diff. But I was wondering is it possible to put in larger motors??? I have a few lay6ing around.. What Id like to use is the modifyes orion corless... On my old rs4 it flew..... That and about 150.00 worth of hopups were needed to beat my friends brp.... lol Guess the rs4 just doesnt have it stock anyway....


----------



## k1m

BRP makes a Big Block conversion kit #325 for the Speed 300 type motors. I'm sure you'll like your SC18. You can also get hubs that will fit the micro's wheels/tires.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Pythonracer - The 16d motor with the XP magnents are very fast. I turn better lap times with the 16d! But if you must, the Big Block or Speed 300 work the best in the SC-18. I tried my friends Orion corless, it just diden't have the top end the Big Block does. Plus the Speed 300 you can get for less than $20.00!


----------



## DWBryan

The Groupner Speed 300 is the best ticket I have found to get high speed and long runtime, as it was stated all you need is the bigblock pod conv, pack and you'll love it... I out ran a 1/10 RC10 TC3 RTR right out of the box with 3000 matched 6 cells and the RTR 19t motor on my track a couple of days ago.
MAn was his eyes popping out and is jaw hit the ground... and me, well I LOVED IT!
I think he is ready to get one now!
:devil:


----------



## DWBryan

Also I'd like to add that at cromwell ( carpet 100ft oval) the Bolink Legands had a record of 50 laps and with the BRP we had 51.
They where in the ballpark with most of the classes raced except the pancars.... they had 70.
The Brp's where running 6 cell and big block and stock gears except for the funones ( big tires ) they had 8/52, and even 1 of the older models was in that 51 lap range running the big block/6 cell... older version but still a winner!


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## EvaderAndy

Ricks track is the best so far. To me anyway


----------



## Guest

How well does a brp perform on pavment, or concrete??


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## k1m

pythonracer said:


> How well does a brp perform on pavment, or concrete??


pythonracer: We had alittle get together today with a couple of local racers, and the BuRPs performed excellent on our neighborhood school parkinglot with the same setup/ gearing as weve run all winter on carpet. The small stones left from winter really launch those little tires though!


----------



## michael button

ya it was pretty funny when i ran over debbies brp and all most fliped over. :lol:


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## k1m

michael button said:


> ya it was pretty funny when i ran over debbies brp and all most fliped over. :lol:


Ahhh...then it was YOU that broke her BuRP, not me!!  
That was a tough hillclimb, huh?


----------



## michael button

ya it was, i think if you got the right set up you could probably make it.


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## Guest

I was just at my local hobbie shop.. And was very pleased to see a few brp products on the racks... One item puzzeled me though... they had a few wings... one the (mini bi-level wing) was interesting.... But looking at it .. it seems massive... Is that wing trully made for a 1/18 scale car?? Or a larger one such as a 1/12 or 1/10 scale???


----------



## OvalmanPA

Haha.........don't worry python. That was probably one of Buds wings for touring cars. You have been to Buds site (www.brpracing.com) to see all the products he makes haven't you? If you haven't you might want to stop by as he makes some very nice items.


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## EvaderAndy

I would take a BRP over those mini's anyday there sweet. :thumbsup:


----------



## Guest

I just won a brp on ebay... the guy claims it is a second generation.. What is the difference from a second generation and the one's being built now?? Also is there a conversion avalible??


----------



## k1m

The older BRP cars (Oval Outlaw) had a black Kydex chassis with very limited or no rear pod movement. The second generation is called SC18 and has a blue fiberglass chassis with a rear pod that pivots. The newest of Bud's mini racer is called the SC18 PRO that takes it a step further with graphite chassis and a mini shock that dampens the movement of the rear pod which now has side springs just like a mini pancar.
They all use similar parts and they're all lots of fun.
There are conversions avaliable for each.


----------



## RAFster

*Bud's VW Bug body*

Regarding Bud's VW Bug body... 
How do you typically mount the body on the SC18 chassis? 

Jessica is using a VW Bug body and I ended up using 2.5" Duratrx body posts to mount an rectangular plate between the two posts as a mounting plate for a single blue rear body post screws that then went through the roof at the top of the rear window. I used a single 1.5" Duratrax body post on the front, but using a single post front and rear allowed the body to be able to wobble from side to side.

I'm going to change to the blue rear body mount screws off of the front suspension plate bolts. Any ideas for the rear? Or, do you think the single post in the rear and a pair in the front would be enough?

Thanks!


----------



## k1m

We use the stock SC18 3 point body mounts with the 2 posts in rear on da bug. I think a 2 point mount allows too much body roll. Actually, I really like my 4 post mount that seemed to hold up well. Its a universal body mount kit from Parma #10450 $7.00. Smaller diameter tubes with set screwed collars for the body to rest on and they use body clips. I got some mini clips that suit 1/18 scale better but are a bit harder to handle with big fingers. They worked very well, none came off, and they're easier than the blue nuts for me. He said blue nuts.....haahahahaaaa!


----------



## RAFster

k1m said:


> We use the stock SC18 3 point body mounts with the 2 posts in rear on da bug. I think a 2 point mount allows too much body roll. Actually, I really like my 4 post mount that seemed to hold up well. Its a universal body mount kit from Parma #10450 $7.00. Smaller diameter tubes with set screwed collars for the body to rest on and they use body clips. I got some mini clips that suit 1/18 scale better but are a bit harder to handle with big fingers. They worked very well, none came off, and they're easier than the blue nuts for me. He said blue nuts.....haahahahaaaa!


Yeah, the 2 point mount did have too much deflection and roll. I could always put to narrow rear body posts off the plate in the back. Inelegant solution. The stock posts were not tall enough for some reason. The SC18 having such short wheels you don't have as much depth to play with on ground clearance. Jessica's SAL7 is getting painted one evening this week or this weekend. It is going to be charcoal metallic with silver pearl flames on the front and fenders.
Amy scaled a PARMA flame mask sheet to 18th scale for me
at her work (vinyl sign company). I'll borrow a camera for some
pictures, the digital camera we had is dead.

Looking for work and doing car repairs/maintenance and yard work has kept me busy...
My next big project is getting the engine bay repainted and my '66 122S motor and tranny back in. Replacing tranny seals and rebuild on motor. Being out of work bites but the time off has some advantages.
I need to check Cleveland area for jobs...I hear things there are more prosperous than Columbus.


----------



## k1m

RAFster: Thanx for all the battery info and good job at CORCAR. I think you should give one of Bud's rent a wrecks a try at the next race. For the money it would save alot of work.


----------



## BudBartos

*K1m*

Those are rent A racers that turn into wrecks


----------



## k1m

You're right, Bud. They take a awful beating.... :freak:


----------



## Impactplayr

*I'm Back!!!*

I just found my last post back on page 64!!! (I have my controls set to 10 posts per page) and your on page 127 now!!!!

I decided to get a new BRP and wanna go all out!! Here is what I decided on.......

BRP SC Fun wons (possibly da bug)
BRP SC pro chassis
BRP fun wons ball diff kit
BRP big block conversion kit

I just have a few questions.....

1. Does the Pro chassis come with the center shock?
2. where should I start gearing the big block? this will be for an about 30'x15' track and a 20'x12' oval.....
3. What is the size of the bushings used in the Fun wons???

Gotta head to work I will check back later!! Thanks in advance!!!!


----------



## Nil

I can give you 1 and 3: The more expensive one on the site includes the shock. 1/8" x 5/16". The rear axle is actually a hair over 1/8". If you want to use bearings, you have to take it down a little. If you want to chuck it in a drill to turn it down, make sure that you grip it by the hub, not the stub sticking out.

I'll even take a shot at question 2, although this is more fitting for 16-Ds. I'd start with 8:52 for the road course and 9:52 for the oval. Maybe someone can give better numbers for the big block (or the 16-D, for that matter).

Hope this helps.


----------



## k1m

Impactplayr: Good to see you back. Check out the PRO thread. You didn't say if it's a carpet track or not, but 30' X 15' seems pretty small for the big block. I'd say you're gonna want to gear down as much as possible. I'd try 7/52 for the 16d and 7/60 for big block to get some bottom end.
Da bug's body is certainly a favorite but it is more top heavy than some of the others. You can slam it, but with Fun Won tires you're going to have to hack it up alot. The wedge is my favorite I think.


----------



## katf1sh

ok i'm new to this brp stuff..but my buddy mike let me run his brp pro chassis car tonight at his indoor carpet track he has set up. all i can say is i am now hooked! bud...great job bro! these things are the best kept secret out there! alot of fun and the price is right! i'm saving some cash to get my set-up asap! i have a battery question..does anyone sell matched packs yet? :thumbsup:


----------



## RAFster

Promatch does a blasting voltage enhancement process on 2/3A size cells. They don't really say they match them. You would need to write them to have them build the pack as a saddle cell layout for the pro chassis. Ask what level of matching the micro sized packs undergo...

http://www.promatchracing.com/rs4.htm

Yes, Bud did his homework and has a very nice car for very little money. A great fun class that can be quite competitive.


----------



## Nil

katf1sh said:


> does anyone sell matched packs yet? :thumbsup:


There have been a few making noise about it, but I've been looking for about a year now and there are none (that I've seen) in a BRP configuration or loose cells.

BTW, Bud is making adaptors to put AAs in the pro chassis; that's what he prefers with the lower CG and, with good NiMHs, better punch than 2/3 A cells.


----------



## marioparnelli

*Classic Hobbies Repaved there Oval*

Walt at Classic repaved his oval track and I had a chance to run my SC18 on it. Good news, It's very smooth for the most part. Just one small section to avoid on the back straight. The track is crazy fast! Is anyone interested in some insane high-speed oval action? :freak: :drunk:


----------



## BudBartos

*Mario P*

Sounds good do you think he will let us run?? I will talk to you at DA TRACK. :wave:


----------



## marioparnelli

Bud, I'm sure that you and all the BRP racers would be welcome at Walt's. I can't speak for this [email protected]#%^&*  weather! I'm ready to build a boat! We'll talk saturday .


----------



## OvalmanPA

Hey Bud! Was going through some stuff and came across this. Happened at one of our last races and I've been going to take a pic of it and see if you've ever seen it happen to any others? I ummmm......helped canbquik do this during a heat race.


----------



## Micro_Racer

I have had this happen to me 3 times!


----------



## BudBartos

And Micro Racer never even hit anything!!!!!! 
We had a batch of axles that the axle hole was drill too deep and it made for a thin wall right were it does fron 1/8th in to 3/16 The new ones are much better. I will get one to K1m at the next race.


----------



## OvalmanPA

Good to know what the cause is and I'm sure canbquik will thank you. :thumbsup:


----------



## RAFster

If anyone is needing a new radio and receiver there is an excellent deal on CORCAR's for sale forum. JR XR2 and XR3 both with two receivers and two crystal sets each.

http://www.corcar.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=admin;action=display;num=1054720713

I've got a JR XR2 and it is a nice radio. The XR2 receiver fits nicely on the SC18 chassis....not oversized like some of the Hitec receivers (HR2NB ?). 

I think someone mentioned the XR2 has some troubles indoors or am I dreaming? 
Speaking of...g'nite all.


----------



## Nil

RAFster said:


> I think someone mentioned the XR2 has some troubles indoors or am I dreaming?


I think that if you race indoors enough, you will find that every radio has problems on some channel at some point in the course. Don't run 61 at Classic; the end of the main straight will be your downfall. And AM is a bit more susceptible than FM. Our host this afternoon has mentioned interference problems with XR2s. Quite possibly, playing with the channel could have cleared it up. But it usually doesn't strike 'til race time.


----------



## marioparnelli

Is anyone interested in going to Classic's in Akron this saturday (the 14th)? Walt at Classic's has repaved his outdoor oval and it is pretty smooth. I briefly tested my SC18 on it. There is one spot on the back straight that is bumpy, but it isn't on the normal SC18 racing line. Classic's starts racing at 5:00pm with practice from 11:00am untill 5:00pm. More info can be seen at: www.classichobbiesraceway.com. Hope to see everone there!


----------



## erock1331

Yeah, Craig is right the bump is almost even out of the pan car line too. It shouldn't effect the 1/18th scalers. I thought about running mine out there. Keep me posted on the turnout possibility. 
If I get a chance this week I may take mine down and see how it runs. If I do will report back.


----------



## Nil

marioparnelli said:


> . . . There is one spot on the back straight that is bumpy, but it isn't on the normal SC18 racing line. . .


HMMM, that means I'd hit it every time, I suppose.
*BIG AIR*
Sounds like a program. Wil's busy, but . . . 

What are the summer pit arrangements there? I've only been to Classic in the ice.


----------



## marioparnelli

Nil, You can still pit inside if you want or set up a canopy outside. There are plenty of electrical outlets outside.


----------



## BudBartos

*Marioparnelli*

I don't think I will be able to make it. I may go and race the Honda!


----------



## Nil

BudBartos said:


> I may go and race the Honda!


Yeah, take a week end off and, um, relax?


----------



## marioparnelli

Ok, maybe we will all go down to Classic's at a latter date.


----------



## RAFster

*Anybody need a Pro?*

Well, another Pro chassis from CORCAR is biting the dust.
This one has not been ran. Jeff Antle's brother is selling his
fully equipped Pro. 
http://www.corcar.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=admin;action=display;num=1055082292

Thought you all might wish to know...


----------



## MaddMatt

*gears*

All:

I have been looking online for a source for the allmetal gears from sonic.

Can anyone recomend a reputable mail order place?

I need the 48p 7 tooth metal (not brass) gear. 

Thanks!


----------



## BudBartos

The Pro went fast already sold. Rafster help Madd Matt out with the slot car on line store.


----------



## Nil

MaddMatt said:


> I have been looking online for a source for the allmetal gears from sonic.


I've had good dealings with NCPHOBBIES.COM. They even give a real address on their front page, which I've always taken as a good sign.


----------



## RAFster

BudBartos said:


> The Pro went fast already sold. Rafster help Madd Matt out with the slot car on line store.


Yes, The Pro was quickly snapped up by someone you will see use it with intentions of toppling the pyramid...well maybe nothing so dramatic. :jest: It went to capable hands that know how to use it effectively and kick a little butt on the track. Not someone who would abuse it...  

Drum roll maistro.... Andy Appleman was the lucky racer to pickup the choice property and a good deal. 
Chris Antle never had the opportunity to race it...the life of a fireman...

They finally rounded up enough Mini Coopers to race this past weekend, but the BRPs have only ran twice this season, both times that Bud and Don have came down. I've not been racing because I'm out of work. 

They changed the track layout for the 2nd series. More technical than before...it's the same for everyone...


Matt,

I looked at Slot Car City and they have the 9T steel pinion listed by Sonic. Email Mick and ask if they have others. [email protected]
Slot Car City is in Las Vegas and they have pretty good prices.
The products generally have a brief description if needed which is nice and I've always found Mick to be extremely helpful. Orders over $50 have free shipping...
http://www.slotcarcity.com/index.html

They carry a pretty nice gear press by "Lucky Bob's" that is $13.49.
http://www.digitalstorefronts.com/store/temp6.asp?cartid=3389&ItemNum=LB1000


----------



## MaddMatt

*Thanks*

All:

Thanks for the info on slot car gear suppliers. I shoud've known that a quick post here would get me the info I needed!

I ended up ordering from Slot Car City out of Las Vegas as they had them in stock and could ship the same day. I just put them on and will let you know how they work.

Madd Matt
www.maddmatts.com


----------



## wcrotty

Has anyone tried these batteries? It reads that they have
a higher output. 

http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?0=217&1=286&3=272


----------



## RAFster

wcrotty said:


> Has anyone tried these batteries? It reads that they have
> a higher output.
> 
> http://www.batteryspace.com/product.asp?0=217&1=286&3=272


These are the same brand as many were using. The KAN 950s 
have exceptional power output capabilities as well. From what 
I've read the NiMH battery manufacturers have made another 
leap ahead and are able to now product cells that can discharge 
at those kinds of rates.
The old (discontinued) Sanyo 500AR red shrinkwrapped cells 
were capable of extremely high discharge rates with near flat 
voltage curve on discharge. Some of my friends into competition 
and hot Speed 400 airplanes would exclusively use the 500AR 
for that reason. Now the KAN 950 has taken the performance 
of the 500AR cell and upped it a bit with as good and a few 
hairs better performance with very good cell life if you don't 
abuse them charging the cells and let them cool off between 
uses. It appears Powerizer has done the same thing with 
these cells if they can support a 20A discharge without 
toasting the cells.

The battery technology just keeps moving at a nice pace. 
I wonder what market is driving it? These cells are a little 
large for cellphone use and the Lithium Polymer cells have 
that market wrapped up because of the safety devices built 
into the cells packs and chargers make their risk acceptable.
(The Novak Spy Lithium packs didn't have that protection
built in apparently, and it bit them for they had to recall them
all...)

The other slot car place no one mentioned and I forgot to was
FasTrak Hobbies in Newark, OH. They have a web store at 
http://www.cyberslot.net

Mario...get your mind out of the gutter...Slot cars on the web/cyberspace...
not any other cyber stuff... :jest: 
figured I should beat him to the punch... :devil:

Mike at FasTrak/CyberSlot has a very nice shop and very 
good selection. Finding certain parts on their website can 
be a little more difficult I think. Not everything available 
from the shop is on the website is also my experience.


----------



## RAFster

ttt (Take it To the Top)


----------



## Guest

IF any of 1/18 racers are intersted 
Brp Super car 18	
Rolling chassis	
Novak Spy speed control 
2 battery pack and servo
1 body
100.00

Please email me at [email protected]


----------



## Guest

The best batteries out right now for the 1/18 cars are the Kan 1050 cells. These cells have an amazing discharge rate and even out perform the Hecells! They are also considerably less expensive than the Hecells.


----------



## Guest

The best batteries out right now for the 1/18 cars are the Kan 1050 cells. These cells have an amazing discharge rate and even out perform the Hecells! They are also considerably less expensive than the Hecells.


----------



## RAFster

Where is the cheapest place you know to get the KAN1050 cells and what size are the KAN1050s?
Thanks!


----------



## Guest

They are about 1mm longer than the other 2/3a cells. he cells are somewhere around $2.25. If you like I can get you some packs of them.


----------



## RAFster

Intelligentsia said:


> They are about 1mm longer than the other 2/3a cells. he cells are somewhere around $2.25. If you like I can get you some packs of them.


I'm not familar with the "He cells" are these the Powerizer MH-2/3A cells? I've got the older MH-2/3A1000 cells. They are OK.
The GE-Sanyo 1.25V NiCd AA batteries have very good performance. They are what most of the Cleveland area BRP racers are using. 

Are you able to get the "He cells" or KAN 1050 cells?


----------



## Guest

I can get both but the KAN cells are actually better and less expensive than the Hecells. ProMatch Racing is a large distributor of the Hecells. You can truly see the performance gains when using the KAN cells. They have a lower internal resistance, better runtime and have a higher average voltage. I have done testing on many 2/3a cells and these are the KAN 1050 cells are superior to the rest. The Hecells are second best.


----------



## RAFster

ProMatched does a voltage enhancement technique to their cells. They are initially a little better than the other He Cells or Powerizer's MH cells.


----------



## Guest

I believe that all of the Hecells are "voltage enhanced." Even so they are still inferior to the Kan cells.

Did you want to try some?


----------



## okracer

i have a question for someone does anyone know where you can get the mini resitors that you used for 1/12 scale before the days of speed controls you know the light weight ones i had an idea bout useing a cheep radio with two servos in a buds car but cant find the light weight resitor controler does anyone still make them or maybe someone knows where you can buy them at a electronics place online or something


----------



## rcnerd

Well, this thread pops up again.......

I havn't run either of my brps since last winter....I'm thinking about them though!!!! Hopefully a new track gets started up since our old one was closed.

OKRACER: well I think you can still get a wound ceramic msc from Associated. I would also suggest a model airplane esc. They are very cheap. get at least 15amps. They have soft start (usually), and non variable braking, but work great. You could probably find one for 20-30 $$. You could also probably adapt a msc like a tamiya one to fit. (maybe) G O O D L U C K !


----------



## k1m

I think I'd go back to a 2 stick radio before I'd go back to a MSC.  
Where there's a will there's a way though, so good luck OKracer! You should be able to find lots of those 3 step rotary MSC's that were in the old Tamiya & Kyosho rc's laying around. Maybe with a couple of mini servos you can shoe horn all of it in there.
I'd be wary of those little airplane motor ESC's though. A friend tried the Airtronic ES-01 a while ago and his 16d motor fried it in minutes!


----------



## RAFster

They aren't very efficient and have lots of maintenance...The weight of two servos and all... You have to mount the rotary switch and then put a drive wire to it from the servo. All pretty bulky.
I've got a used one out of my daughter's Tamiya TL01 Ford Lightning or a new one from Tamiya from the Mini Cooper. They go for about $10.
The resistor will get cattle iron hot and Tamiya uses a little metal grill over the resistor that was mounted on the side of the car to help cool it. The real old style is a wiper arm on the resistor with 3 wires that they used in the days of the 12E and 12i cars by Associated. 
It was lighter than this setup by Tamiya. They would burn out in no time. 
If you want to go that route you might look at adapting a Parma resistor or other Slot Car controller for the job.
It is cheaper to pickup a Futaba MC230CR or other ESC.


----------



## OvalmanPA

RAFster said:


> Where is the cheapest place you know to get the KAN1050 cells and what size are the KAN1050s?
> Thanks!


I found this place Cheap Battery Packs that has the 1050 cells. I basically roasted the poor guy for false advertising on eBay in a thread here.


----------



## rcnerd

k1m said:


> I'd be wary of those little airplane motor ESC's though. A friend tried the Airtronic ES-01 a while ago and his 16d motor fried it in minutes!


Sorry, but I have to step up to the defense of airplane speedos everywhere, now that their name has been sullied on these pages.

Have you ever had a good Airtronics Speedo??? I haven't. I don't know about the es01, but I can vouch for the Great planes electrify series, the Jeti escs, and the Astro Flight Esc's. All of these work great, take gruelling punishment and overloading and don't get hot unless abused. I'm running a Eletrifly 50 amp in my fast electric boat with a 6-turn Cobalt motor and it never skips a beat. The C-30 or C-20 are also9 both very good. They shut down when overloaded. The Astro stuff is phenominal. Trust me.....Any speedo that can handle a 600/05 in a plane can handle any micro motor out there. Watch out though. Many of these super high freq. escs MUST have a schottky diode or they will crater. :wave:


----------



## k1m

I'm sure there are airplane ESC's that work fine.  
I haven't sullied a name in years! :lol: 
I expected to hear from a stick radio user.


----------



## rcnerd

Oh Yeah....I like stick radios too......for boats and planes!! :roll:


----------



## RAFster

I'm a windy old soul...I've reached 500 posts today (Aug 26th from May 2002...)


----------



## k1m

:hat: Congrats to RAFster! :hat: 

That qualifies you as an "Elder Statesman" here on Hobby Talk.

p.s. notice that mine still just says RC Racer.....cause I really am an old fart and they don't have that as a choice.


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Come on you guys, when you get as old as I am than you can be an old fart.Most of the people I race with are younger than my boys. I came by the grey hair honestly, my kids gave it to me.


----------



## RAFster

Donald Deutsch said:


> Come on you guys, when you get as old as I am than you can be an old fart.Most of the people I race with are younger than my boys. I came by the grey hair honestly, my kids gave it to me.


Some days I feel older than you are Don... uh, should I duck after
saying something like that? :wave: 

I've got grey hair too, my two kids are giving it to me. My daughter being quite sharp disagrees, she said I was just getting older and that her being here isn't the cause. Jessica's 14.75yrs old, Jonathan is 12.3 yrs old. I wonder sometimes if I'm going to let the boy live to 13...  Amy says he is too much like me, that's why he drives me nuts sometimes. I'd pay someone to teach him how to take corners and that you actually have to slow down before the corner. Despite my illustrating and telling him, he still wants to hold that throttle down all the time.

Amy's dad was referred to by his kids and himself as an old fart...he passed not too long after retirement. Heart attack. He was a kind and loving father too his kids and was a simple man. He loved life and loved those around him and it was a joy to get to know him as long as I was allowed. He died before Jonathan was 3.


----------



## rayhuang

*Batteries*

PLease help me sum-this all up on the best cells for the BRPSC18.

The KAN1050 cell









is fast unmatched and unzapped.

The HEcell







is also quite good, but it needs to be zapped to be as fast as the KAN1050??

And last question-they are all faster than the AA's?

Thanks,
Ray


----------



## Guest

The Hecells are zapped. Even so, they are not as good as the KAN cells.

Both the Hecells and KAN cells are better than AA cells. They had lower IR and an increased average voltage over the AA rechargeable cells that I tested.


----------



## RAFster

rayhuang said:


> PLease help me sum-this all up on the best cells for the BRPSC18.
> 
> The KAN1050 cell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is fast unmatched and unzapped.
> 
> The HEcell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> is also quite good, but it needs to be zapped to be as fast as the KAN1050??
> 
> And last question-they are all faster than the AA's?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ray


Ray,

From what I have read the KAN1050 and KAN950 (superceded by 1050) are superior to the HEcell. They are also superior to the MH2/3A1000 or MH2/3A1100 cells by Powerizer. I am uncertain
if they exceed the performance of the GE Sanyo gold and red shrinkwrapped consumer AA NiCd cells that are rated at 1.25V and 1600mAH?.

I am not aware of anyone trying the KAN cells locally and racing them against the GE-Sanyo AA cells. Most of the local racers are using the GE-Sanyo NiCd AA cells.

From what I understand on the Hecells you have to charge and discharge them several times to get them to come up to capacity initially. After that they are fine. The KAN cells are good to go and should be charged at 1.5A or less and they can provide 20A discharge rates without damage to the cells.

David


----------



## rayhuang

Thank you both. I have e-mailed Bud about buying a new BRP car. It only seems right I support him as he supports our track. I owned one before too (Bratenahl days). Now-whether or not I ever get to race the thing is another issue. I might go the Microracer route and build myself a portable track to run on. Maybe see if the neighbors want to have some fun running them as well.


----------



## RAFster

Hey Intellengsia!

Have you tried Blind's Zapped KAN1050 cells? Are they better than the garden variety KAN1050s?

http://www.blindbatts.com/

Does the zapping lower the IR further on a NiMH cell?


----------



## kc-fan

What is the normal track size for these 1/18 scale racers. I mainly run 1/10 scale offroad, but I am kind of interested in starting a small fun onroad/or oval track here in my hometown. Was planning on Legends, but with everything going on there, these BRP 1/18 scale don't look too bad. And a smaller track would be even cheaper to set up. Thanks would appreciate any advice on this. David


----------



## Guest

RAFster said:


> Hey Intellengsia!
> 
> Have you tried Blind's Zapped KAN1050 cells? Are they better than the garden variety KAN1050s?
> 
> http://www.blindbatts.com/
> 
> Does the zapping lower the IR further on a NiMH cell?


To be honest with you. Due to the already low IR of the cell I do not believe that zapping will further enhance any characteristics of the cell. It will most definitely not provide any in creased performance at lower discharge rates. Perhaps with higher discharge rates you may see small increases in performance but not much. 

I believe that the "zapping" is utilized as pure marketing with the KAN cells. He is providing something which his competition does not and at a reasonable cost. 

I find this quite clever but the zapping is really not necessary. 

One more thing, I would recommend cycling these cells a few times when you first receive the cells. After that, enjoy the performance!


----------



## RAFster

kc-fan said:


> What is the normal track size for these 1/18 scale racers. I mainly run 1/10 scale offroad, but I am kind of interested in starting a small fun onroad/or oval track here in my hometown. Was planning on Legends, but with everything going on there, these BRP 1/18 scale don't look too bad. And a smaller track would be even cheaper to set up. Thanks would appreciate any advice on this. David


Bud Bartos, the Man behind BRP, has a small oval/on-road course behind his shop referred to as "Da Track" it is a 25 x 50 foot oval
when ran on the outside or one pipe is put in place on the front straightaway and voila, it is a road course. The road course design being narrow and challenging. You can see pictures of "Da Track"
on the flyer for the racing season here: 
http://www.brpracing.com/datrack.html

It is a fun track to race on and is wide enough on Oval for everyone to have room to pass in the corners and run 3 wide comfortably if need be... Also, you have room to pass a 2 car wreck if you are lucky enough to avoid it.


----------



## Guest

Off topic Rafster.

What is a good setup for Ozite?


----------



## RAFster

Intelligentsia said:


> Off topic Rafster.
> 
> What is a good setup for Ozite?


We generally will run a standard wear Orange front and Blue rear. Green is a little too much bite for most tracks. On a brand new track you may need Greens or just dope the entire rear tire.

We typically didn't need more than a band about 3/16" wide on the front in stock but the mod (Speed 300) needed more. The rear tire was doped to suit your driving and conditions.

Generally a standard set of Orange and Blues would last for almost the entire winter season running from October through March with about 3 or 4 weekends off in that time for holidays and the like. The front tires will wear to a slight cone shape but they won't wear completely out and traction in the corners will be better. Since the front suspension can't adjust the camber/caster...

Also, the high flex Tplate is needed on the SC18 for bumpy tracks; we generally use it all the time any more...


----------



## rayhuang

Well-my BRP is on order. I am excited. Too bad the bodies gonna be painted white on white!!! haha. OH-wait-that'd be stealing SG1's color scheme. OK-How about neon yellow on neon yellow!!!


----------



## Guest

Hey Rafster,

Since the track is small it will give me a chance to try out that Big Bruiser motor.

The carpet is new, smooth ozite, besides the tires, should I tighten the roll springs on the chassis, as well as the rear t-plate? 
Do yu think that I should throw a black spring for the vcs on there also?

Thanks again.


----------



## BudBartos

Keep the setup loose like for outdoors. If you put a spring on it you will get more steering.


----------



## Guest

Gotcha,

Ok, I will give it a try.


----------



## RAFster

rayhuang said:


> Well-my BRP is on order. I am excited. Too bad the bodies gonna be painted white on white!!! haha. OH-wait-that'd be stealing SG1's color scheme. OK-How about neon yellow on neon yellow!!!


Last body I saw SG1 with was White with a speckled silver spatter kind of finish...or was it multicolored? I forget...it was subtle.
Ray, Paint it Neon Red and you can join the Barbie Racing Team!
Or a Pale Pink for Mary Kay...
Join the Army and go woodland or desert camo...
I think I'm going to paint my son's next body with bandaids for the coming rash he gives a body running it down the pipes or into the corners... :jest: I know, how cruel I am... :devil: 

Besides, thin coat of paint equals lighter weight...

David


----------



## Fl Flash

Hi Guys,
Getting ready to order one of these cars! A SC 18, what else do I need to order with the kit? as far as options and spare parts. What compound tires come with the kits? I will be raceing on carpet, orange fronts, blue rears?
Thanks! Lee


----------



## k1m

Hi Flash,
If you're getting a SC18 to race with, the ball diff kit should probably be your first option. They don't break easily, maybe some extra tires or gears to help tune it to your track be handy too. BRP racing is the most fun for your $.


----------



## RAFster

I'm with k1m on the advice. I would add Don S.'s motor pod anti-crush tube is well worth the $1 or so it adds to the order. Bud will know what I'm talking about and gears (pinion and spur) are great things to have on hand. A spare set of tires is a good thing but on carpet they wear very well.


----------



## Blind

RAFster said:


> I'm with k1m on the advice. I would add Don S.'s motor pod anti-crush tube is well worth the $1 or so it adds to the order. Bud will know what I'm talking about and gears (pinion and spur) are great things to have on hand. A spare set of tires is a good thing but on carpet they wear very well.


rafster - I just picked up a used SC18 on ebay, it came with a ball diff kit but not that anti crush tube ( I saw that on Intelligentsia's BRP when I ran with him last week). Think you could help me getting the things my car needs? I will probably just have you send anything to intelligentsia and have him give it to me when we have a race to go to to save on shipping


----------



## 2000-redrider

Hey Blind, good to hear that you picked up a BRP. From what I remember, your Micro was pretty well set up. It'll be interesting to hear what you plan to do to your BRP. 

I'm not sure if you remember me, but I was the one that brought a BRP to the mini-z g2g a couple of months ago (the same day that the Bantam was there).


----------



## Blind

heh, which micro? I've got 5.

I do remember you with your BRP, you should bring it to socal to race with us, checkout our posts in the clubs & tracks > west coast section of www.yourmicro.com


----------



## 2000-redrider

I'm sure I'll need a lot of practice to race you with guys, but I'll check it out. I'm hoping I can make it to the Hobby People race on the 21st, in Fountain Valley. It'll be my first time racing.


----------



## Guest

That is probably one of the worst tracks that you can race on. Good luck with that


----------



## Blind

yea fountain valley is rough, lol. Parts of the track are very high bite, while the tight section is like polished concrete if the layout is similar to the last race they held there!

I say wait, or go to the camarillo micro race this sunday (14th). You'll have a lot more fun at a better track


----------



## Guest

So there is racing there before next month. Hey Blind, I need you to call me at home as soon as you can. 

Thanks


----------



## 2000-redrider

Yeah, I've heard of Fountain Valley referred to as a "no bite" track. So, any suggestions on tire choice? I do have the HPI wheel adaptors.


----------



## Guest

I am not sure that they will do you any good. We were running HPI cars there. The BRP tires may be better but we will need to see. I know that I am not racing there but I will almost definitely be in Camarillo.


----------



## RAFster

take to the top


----------



## rcnerd

hey it's time to go out and play....this weekend I'll have the opp. to run my brp on a rental banked oval...should be fun!!!


----------



## k1m

Good luck, RCNerd..rented track? Any info you can get on that would be interesting. I've looked at several, but never raced on one. The ones I've seen were quite small, more for mini-Z cars.


----------



## kc-fan

Hey 1/18th scale racers, trying to get several locals interested in RC. They would like to try some on-road out. The SC18 looks pretty easy to get into without spending a lot of $. Does any one know if it is possible to use the Mini-T ESC/reciever combo will fit on one. If not what is an servo/ esc/ reciever combo that is good for a backyard basher. 
Thanks David


----------



## vn1500

One of the best features of the SC18 is , is that standard electrics fit . Unlike yhe micro . I use a novak spy esc , novak xxl receivar , and a hs81mg steering servo , but all that is just for weight savings . Dealing with a car that weighs about a pound with the battery in , grams & ounces make a big difference . Hope this helps . :wave:


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Check a hobby shop, they should have a Sport with ESC. This system will fit into the SC18 BUD's car.


----------



## BudBartos

Mini T radio will not work unless you use the Mini T steering servo also.


----------



## kc-fan

well by reading more into this little car, if standard servos, recievers, and esc's fit. this is looking better all the time. With them needing radios already, I think the idea of the sport radio w/ electronics looks like the way to go. My electronics will be all 1/10 size stuff, heck we will all be on a level playing field. There is plenty of time to get them talked into the mini size equipment once I get them hooked on racing, hehe. Thanks for all your feedback.

David


----------



## vn1500

Thats a good radio to start with , but you will find that having indvidual end point adjustments on the steering servo is a must , because without you'll notice the front wheel comes in contact with the chassis . Turning down the dual rate will stop the wheel from hitting , but now you have limited steering the other way.


----------



## slotracer

I was thinking about that new 2pl from futaba. Radio,servo,and mc230 combo for $89. Any opinions?

or maybe just the radio and servo for $62. since that esc is kind of heavy.


----------



## k1m

I'd say it's an excellent choice. The 2PL works great and has all the bells & whistles needed for all but the most serious of racers. Same goes for the MC230, it's tiny and tough....we have several and have been very happy with them. If anything, I might opt for a micro servo and a good servo saver.


----------



## RAFster

Since the MC230 goes for $40-50 alone, I would consider that a steal for a computerized 10 memory radio, even on AM band. All you would want is the micro servo (metal geared preferred) & servo saver to trim the weight some and you are set. The RJ142 receiver is smaller than the 122 it replaced and the MC230 works great. The wires really add to the weight. They are pre-installed. 

The new Futaba synthesized 3-channel FM radio is going to put pressure on Airtronics and Novak because of it's pricing...


----------



## rcnerd

I'll vouch 100% for the performance, durability and value of the BRP cars! The mc230 speedo is also excellent!
vn1500: what you say about the unequal steering is true but it can be fixed by changing the angle of the servo saver at neutral. If you fiddle with it enough you can get it pretty close to even, even without end point adjustments. (It's the same as how an airplane aileron can be set up for 'differential throw' mechanically (as opposed to electroically).

MY EXCITING NEWS: I just finished building a wooden banked oval track in my garage for 1/18 cars!!! WOW!!!! FUN!!!! It's 20 feet from end to end and 8 feet across. Today I resurfaced it with asphalt undercoating in a quest for traction. I'll post some pix soon.

BUD: I think you'd better get a LTO chassis ready for me!!!
Any ideas in the works for a way to adjust front camber?? how about wedge shaped shims? Or a flexible plate that bends to provide camber (like a Bolink pan car)? I'm asking because I always like to set up my cars for even treadwear (not coning) first, and then adjust to handle.

:wave:


----------



## Sugar Daddy

To get rid of uneven steering, you must have your linkage set at the right angle. Take a look at the pic and the 2 red lines on the servo horn and steering linkage. You want them as close to 90* as you can get them. Sorry for the bad pic. :drunk:


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## rcnerd

okay now what about uneven treadwear (coning)??????????????????????????


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## RAFster

Sugar Daddy said:


> To get rid of uneven steering, you must have your linkage set at the right angle. Take a look at the pic and the 2 red lines on the servo horn and steering linkage. You want them as close to 90* as you can get them. Sorry for the bad pic. :drunk:


Another alternative to angling over the servo horn is to raise the point on the steering knuckle where the servo link drives the arm... then you 
have the 90 degree angle as well.


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## rcnerd

k1m said:


> Good luck, RCNerd..rented track? Any info you can get on that would be interesting. I've looked at several, but never raced on one. The ones I've seen were quite small, more for mini-Z cars.



Well, it turned out that the rental track sucked (it's used for anemic 1/10 pan cars) since the banked oval's corners were made of flat panels......

here is what a lap sounded like:

VVVVRRRRROOOOOMMM...whap, whap whap whap whap whap VVVRRRPOOOMMM...whap whap whap whap!

you get the idea.....BUT>>>>>

the crappy rental inspired me to build a banked oval in my garage which is awesome!!! It's 20 ft from end to end and 8 ft across. it is banked all of the way around and coated with frubberized undercoating. I would post pix but my buddy CHIPS saw it and vowed to perfect the design using his far supierior construction skills. I will post pix of garage oval V2.


So I thought of a way to adjust camber on the BRP I'm wondering if it's been tried:If the front kingpins were 1/8 " taller, you could tie them together with a tie rod/turnbuckle under the e-clips, which could then be tightened, to angle the tops of the kingpins in slightly by flexing the chassis......

Any thoughts??


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## k1m

Looking forward to pix of garage oval v2, rcnerd...

In the meantime here's a pic and link to portable mini tracks made in Toronto, Canada.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3177710056#ebayphotohosting


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## kc-fan

Well my 1st sc18 is going to be on its way, before I start purchasing batts. What am I going to find that the battery of choice will be, 4 or 6 cell? Any Ideas, will just be some of us locals bashing around for fun, but hate to start them out getting 4 cell, when we find out we just gotta have the 6's afterall. Any one also have any links to sights that sell Ozite carpet, or something equivalent to. Saw a sight that they used roofing tar paper? This might have been for a smaller scale? My options so far will be. An old tennis cort ( will I find this surface too smooth ), newly poored concrete drive around City pool ( might work if broomed enough), or either choice with temp carpet surface put down. 

David


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## k1m

David: Everyone that I know that races, uses 6 cells. 4-5 cells is good for tight places. As long as everone runs the same it will be fun. Tennis courts work pretty well if they're smooth. Stay away from the pool unless it's empty! Concrete is usually pretty slick no matter how clean you get it, throttle control becomes a must. Asphalt thats not sealed works about the best around here. The carpet is the answer for sure, a nice smooth area is all you'll need.


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## kc-fan

Is everyone going with the bigger motor on these little cars? And is this the 16d motor Bud has in his Flyer?


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## RAFster

Most everyone runs stock class and uses the Tuned motor from Bud. Around here Stock BRP is very popular and it is ran with 6 cell packs of NiMH or NiCd and the tuned or stock motor. Most change the brushes to the Gold Dust Pro brushes and stock springs or light weight springs by Champion are fine. 
XP magnets in Bud's tuned motor lower current draw and the motor runs cooler and longer. 

Many modified class drivers on road course drivers chose to use a hotter S16D slot car motor. Depending on the track of course... Oval racing lends itself to the Speed 300 6V/Big Block/Peak Chubby/Wattage 370/etc. motor. The Mabuchi 370
motor (same thing, who the previous Speed 300 sized motors are made by...) is very much like a turbo motor and the ebb and flow of power is difficult to use and the power for the high ATV has to be turned down to 75-80% of max to make it driveable. Even then you are dealing with wheel hop and other handling issues. 

Some have played with the Bruiser arm in 32 or 36 degree timing or the Parma American wound 38 degree arm. The Bruiser is a very high torque arm with small air gap because of the larger armature. This causes the motor to slow a little faster and it has great torque and better braking than the stock motor. 
Which by the way, the Speed 300 has next to NO brakes...makes it more of a challenge since off throttle is very diffierent than stock motors or even 10th scale. 
The stock motor has 25 degrees of timing and is a chinese wound arm. The American made arms are of better quality and a 25 degree American made arm will out perform the 25 degree Chinese made arm. The quality of the wind is better and has much better power. 

RJR, Pro-Slot, and Fast Ones are all good names in arms. Fast Ones is a smaller company whereas the RJR is more of a large company. Both RJR and Fast Ones offer a Bruiser S16D arm. The Bruiser Arms do have a shorter shaft at the top which poses challenges for pressing pinions on the motor.

My $0.10 worth on the topic...


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## kc-fan

sounds like you covered everything just fine. Thanks for your time.

David


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## k1m

David: You've been *RAFster'd* !
:tongue: 

RAFster: Do you think the Wattage 370 comes in a 7.2v and a 6v model?
The Wattage motors I've got from Hobby People are only $10 but they don't give much info:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/131350.asp


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## Guest

They only come 6v.


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## k1m

I sure wish one of those K3 motors would come to my house!


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## Guest

Me too!

They will be there soon enough!

As a side note, the Krystal 3 motors are 6v.


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## DWBryan

I seen earlyer some conversations about tracks, I have one over here in LaGrange IN, its a 240ft (center line 1 lap) banked concrete called Schoolyard Speedway.
It has been compaired by 1/8th & 1/10th scale drivers as well as nicknamed Little darlington, but the 1/18th scale drivers call it super Daytona.
We are discussing the possabilitys of hosting the 1/18th scale stock concrete oval Indiana state championship race.
But a driver wouldnt have to live in Indiana to race the race. 
Check out our site and info at www.rcspeedway.net and think about it, also I would welcome suggestions based on what I have described the class to be.
Tech bench check points and such.


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## Guest

Tht track looks a bit large for box stock 1/18 racing.


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## DWBryan

Well it has its own challanges 
Just floor it had get the best line... I have been playing with the speed 300 out there in a SC-18 and in a sc18 LTO Funones and they are a REAL handfull.. I was chasing a TC3 and a RC10GT+ RTR and keeping up untill a tiny mistake and well you can guess what it was like... SCREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeeeeeee BOOM, tumble tumble flip and ssssssss. But its fun and the look of a spectators jaw on the ground. 
But yea its it has size.. its the largest banked concrete oval in the state not counting the Indi veladrome... but that is a bike track and the RC racing there is ?? once a month or every other month.. and just pancars as far as I know.
Hmmm the box stock is not really a proper descrip, Gearing can be changed and some stuff on the RC.. like as a example.. on the BRP SC-18 the foams work out here and when a person glues on a piece of a inner tube to make it a capped tire then foam compound dont seem to matter.
With my SC-18 Funones I turned a 7.78 and got 29 laps in a 4 min race & with the oval outlaws (small foams) I still got 29 laps but a bit slower lap time.
The funones was a rental I had still left over from my capet track befor I sold it.
This is a big track but a full feild of 10 drivers out there is a blast.


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## kc-fan

Have a fellow Novice racer that has purchased a Tower Hobbies #400 Quick charger. We are running BRP 1/18th scale with 6cell AA. I see this charger is just a timed charger with an AMP charge rate of 2.5-2.7 for 30 min. This will cook these AA cells won't it? I really wish he would have got with me before he purchased. Let me know what you think on this, I would hate for him to bake his new batts that are on there way.

David


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## Micro_Racer

We charge our AA's at 2.5 amp's....Bud does have a "dropping bulb" see:

http://www.brpracing.com/450.html


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## kc-fan

I noticed that he had a "dropping bulb" on his web sight. But you say you ARE charging at 2.5 amp's. I blew a cell charging at 1.5 amps when I first got set up with my BRP. Granted they are not top of the line batts. China specials 1600 NIMHs, I am finally just now creeping back up to 1.0 amps on my charger, thought maybe the first couple of charges, you need be easy on them?!?! Have not had a bad cell so far. Are the Sanyos pretty bullet proof? Thanks for your reply, I might end up having him get one of those dropping Bulbs, what will this make the final Amp rate be, from 2.5 or so. 
Dave


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## RAFster

2.5A charge rate on a NiCd isn't outrageous if they are high capacity NiCd but, generally NiMH cells wouldn't be charged at that high a rate. Generally 1.5X the NiMH capacity is the most I'd recommend. I don't know if the KANs like high charge rates given their capacity to discharge at very high rates.


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## Micro_Racer

Sorry, I should have asked what type of cells you were charging. I just assumed that you were using BRP packs. NiCd is what we use (Bud's Sanyo's) and charge them at 2.5A. I do have a few packs of NiMH that I charge at 1A. Our testing has shown that the BRP packs AA are the best to date....


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## kc-fan

I need to get some nicads for racing, I think I will like the punch they will provide, but for now, I am just cruising around trying to get my novice driver up to speed. And no need to beat the charging topic to death. After I posted I searched old threads and found a big battle between how to care for batts. We don't need all that coming back up. Thanks agian for the info. 

Dave


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## DWBryan

MPI has some AA 1100ma nicd cells that I have had supper luck with... I charge em at 1.5 with a MRC 959 and get 25min run time with stock BRP/Parma/9t pinion & 45t spur (stock in box).
I have been running em in the car for 3 months (never removed em) I just re-peak them and use the (BRP) droping bulb after a nights/days run.
The nick name for em here is Green Meanies... the stock # for MPI is AAU1000 and they come with or without tabs.
I have run em against sanyo 700 & 900ma bats and they did verry well, also against the 2300ma nimd they had more punch for 6 min of a 8 min run... but the higher ma of the nmhd provided the longer run time and provided a overall better performance in a 8 min race.... but in a 4 min heat & 5 min main the nickle metals where no advantage over the ni cads.
The MRC 959 has dif settings in its menu but I just poke the button untill it says 1.5 and hit the start... I have not been disipointed yet using the (green Meanies) yet.


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## DWBryan

Ohh I failed to mention that the nickle metals that I have played with have the label of " Titanium 2300 " and I charged them at 1 amp and ??? what ever the default of the MRC 959 charger... the bats got warm and took awhile... but did seem decent.. they are also .. HMMmmm.. well lets say cost effecient at less than $2 per cell and provided a bit over 30 min runtime on a stock BRP (parma 16d) motor. With a Groupner Speed 300 (big block mod) they got around 15 min using the mentioned box stock gearing ( 9t pinion & 45t spur) on the out of box SC-18 BRP.
Just a little manna for the avid 1/18 scale drivers I have learned here... from what I have experianced at my tracks.. as well as what I personaly do or have seen done.


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## kc-fan

I have read in the past about these " Green Meanies", I was wondering what they were. Thanks for clearing this up. I will see if I can track some down. Give yourself an Atta-boy for the day. Now off to look for MPI?


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## kc-fan

Would these be Maxx Products International, Inc. Sanyo KR-1100AAU? around $3 a cell.


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## RAFster

http://www.unipros.com/cbpsite/loosecells.asp?session_id=149430
KR1650AAU not currently in stock but same type of cell. KAN has a new
AA NiMH cell...sounds like it may be a option if the quality is good.

David
RAFster


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## DWBryan

Yep its from Maxx Products... Hmm they dont say sanyo on em.. they are covered with a green shrink tube and are les than $3 per cell when I last bought em.
I have excelent luck with them.


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## DWBryan

Does anyone have some pinion pullers to sell for the BRP Parma motors?
Mine broke.  Somone told me that there is a combo gizmo that also presses them back on... sounds like a winner to me, but cant find em anywhere Im looking.
Thanks
www.rcspeedway.net


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## Nil

I got mine at:

http://www.ncphobbies.com/

Search for puller. The Ninco one is the combination puller. 

The Parma Press is good for BRPs, since it lets you press pinions on installed motors. Many of the presses, including Ninco, don't have clearance to fit around the pod.


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## RAFster

*Presses*

Stay far away from the Summit brand of press as it looks like the modified C clamp design from Parma, but their's is pretty ugly as it has some quality problems.

Slot Car City carries the Lucky Bob press and it looks like a good one. I don't know if you can press a pinion on a motor that is already installed in the pod.
I doubt it has the depth on the throat. 

RAFster


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## DWBryan

Thanks for the info drivers.  it is apreciated... I looked all over around here and ddint find a thing... I made one but it really leaves a lot to be desired.
The one that broke I dont even rem wheere I got it.. it was ok and got a lot of use ( I was the only one here to have 1) but somone didnt have it correctly centered on the com shaft and was hooked on the pinion... and well a couple small turns it was bent and I tryed to straten it.... it snapped off. 
As far as a press... I rigged a real small vise and it works well but I know there is a better way and a lighter assy to carry around.
Thanks again. 
Wehn you folks go to a track to run 1/18th scale... do they always split the class of the BRP's into Funones and sc-18s or run em together?
Also what is the perfered way to run other manufactured models... here there is just a couple of the Losi mini T and well they get the honors of picking up the rear of the pack running 6 cell packs. 1 driver just got a X-ray so dont know what to expect of it and the HPI micro was here just once and gave up after 1 practice run when out there with the buds cars ona play/practice day.
We did a LOT of re serfacing the speedway here so the 1/18th can run on the concrete.. on the carpet Buds cars dominated and so far on the concrete its shapeing up the same way... but just wondered what others are doing in this area.


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## Nil

FUN WONS & SC-18S: Everyone seems to just run them together. The folks in PA seem to like the big wheels better; here in NE Ohio, we mostly see the SCs. I seem to recall them saying that the big wheels help with bumpy tracks. 

Mini-Ts are definitely separated from the BRPs.

Up here, we don't see much of other brands, but RAFster may have some information about that competition; they seem to be more popular in central Ohio.


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## RAFster

*other makes and pressin' & pullin'*

The best puller I have seen or found is the Hudy and FasTrak Hobbies in Newark carries it. Call Mike at FasTrack and ask him to ship you one along with the Parma press. He generally has one in stock of both. His price on the Hudy puller is better than most, around $10 to $12 and the Parma press expect to pay $9. FasTrak's number is (740)349-0560 fax (740)349-0756 they are open Wed-Sat 12-9PM and Sun. 12-6PM
The Champion puller has a replacement screw if you have that brand of puller...

Mike Collins replied to a little baiting I did to him on the Dayton area thread regarding CORCAR and the like. He mentioned the M18 and its weaknesses.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=84609

The only M18 I've witnessed racing was rolling pretty good in the corners, but it appeared to handle much better than most Micros. It was at the Fairgrounds race in March on carpet. 

The Micros here generallly dominate unless Bill S. is racing. We have some good Micro drivers, but they haven't held a candle to Bud or Don S. and many other good BRP drivers. 
Me, I'm a pushover; not a real good driver most of the time. 

David


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## DWBryan

Somone said "Tht track looks a bit large for box stock 1/18 racing."
------------------------------------------------------------------
Race Results for
Stock Electro 1/18th
FOR RACE DATE 6/12/04 
DRIVER LAPS	Heats Won	Feature
Elva Miller 26 0 1st PLACE 
Pat Lowe 26 1 2nd PLACE 
Ed Curtis 25 0 3rd PLACE 
Phile Wright 22 0 4th PLACE 
Dave Bryan 19 0 5th PLACE 
Kevin Stahl -- TQ 7.76 DNF 1 6th PLACE 
Cody Fairchild DNF 0 7th PLACE 
Nick McCoy DNR 
Brandon Greer DNR 
Tye Austin DNR 
John Cummins DNR 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
We had a few tonight.  Even had MY record broke.. and I crashed and broke a wire as well as the TQ driver. It was still fun and also our biggest class this last Saturday.


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## 2slow00

Hello, Everyone,

It's Bonnie, Dick's wife. Just wanted to let all of you know that Richard is fully awake and talking now. We thought he was not going to make it but has done a complete turn around. It may take him a while to get home but at least now he will be coming home. 

Thanks for all the cards he received in the ICU Unit, HE LOVED THEM and started to cry when he found out you folks had thought about him.

I'll keep you posted and let you know how he is doing.

Thanks again for the prayers and cards,
Bonnie Oettinger


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## Donald Deutsch

Bonnie let us know when he is up to phone calls. Tell him Ben and I say hello again.
Don Deutsch


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## RAFster

*Dick Oettinger*

Bonnie,

Thanks for the update. 
I'm glad to hear that he has made the turnaround.
We would really hate to lose him as I know you guys 
would as well. 

Tell him David, Jonathan and Jessica said hi and keep 
us updated as much as you can. Thanks again! 

David
RAFster


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## WARBIRD

Bonnie:

Let him know the Sugar Grove gang have him in thoughts and prayers.

Andy


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## rcnerd

what the hell....givem 10 amps!


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## JoeDriver

*Track barrier*

I've found a free material for portable track barriers if you are running your cars on carpet. Drive around to carpet stores and ask for the cardboard tubes that the carpet and vinyl come on. They don't always have them, but I have been collecting them, cutting them in two with a jig saw lengthwise and trimming each end so that there is a tab on top and drilling a 3/8th inch hole and inserting a bolt to hold them together. I've cut 3', 4', 6' and 8' sections and combine them for corners. The cars do not get damaged when colliding with the barrier although they will go over them sometimes.


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## BudBartos

Wow good idea !!


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## k1m

Joedriver: Now that's using your head! Nothing better than finding some good use for something that's no longer needed. Unless it's free too, that's even better! I scored some old firehose that was to be thrown away that we used to set up a track in parkinglots. It didn't work well for 1/10 scale trucks, but I bet it would work for 1/18 scale. Easy to dismantle, haul and store also.

Send us some pics if you can! :thumbsup:


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## diamond_dave

anyone know Bud Bartos email? i have some questions about setting up my mini-t. email it to me at [email protected]


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## BudBartos

I sent a mail on what could be done with your truck.


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## rayhuang

Hey Bud,

Are you selling battery packs for the SC18? I need a pack for mine. Also-are you guys running new motors in the SC18's in stock? Last time I raced one it was still the Parma slot car motor. Sorry-been out of it for awhile. Hope to make a Friday night race with my car before the season ends.

Ray


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## Micro_Racer

Ray -- Do you have the new V2 chassis? The new V2 takes the 2/3A cells, Bud has both the AA and 2/3A. We still run the Parma slot motor in stock, but a new Pro-Stock class is comming!


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## rayhuang

Cool on the motors. I have the original chassis and I thought I might just modify it to run the 2/3 cells. The original AA pack is still in the car soldered in.  Me thinks it DEAD as dead can be now.


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## BudBartos

Ray >> That would be cool if you could come out and run. It's a good time


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## rayhuang

Bud-I got the tires and batteries. Thanks. I'll try and get a few cycles on the packs and maybe hit Strongsville with the car. Its in pieces now getting it chnaged over to narrow saddle packs. I'll post a pic when I am done.


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## TangTester

Ray, 

You should go to classic this weekend!!!!!! The oval is a blast!


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## rayhuang

I bet it would be fun-but I will be in my car going to Michigan saturday evening.


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## JoeDriver

*Free track barrier*

Here are some pictures of the track. I kept 4 cars running for 1 1/2 hours for a youth group at a church basement. Most of my pictures were blurry, but here are some that came out. I ordered a wireless color camera that I will mount in one of the cars and it transmits to a TV monitor. I'll let you know how it works. I am thinking of ordering the TrakMate IR lap counting system for $500.00. It requires mounting a tiny circuit board in each car that points up out of the windsheild and sends a unique signal to sensors mounted overhead at the Start/stop gate. Has anyone used one of these? See it at http:WWW.infoserv.net .

Joe Driver


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## JoeDriver

*The real link to TrakMate*

The complete link to the lap counter is WWW.infoserve.net/oss/slotcar/index.htm Sorry the pictures are so small-it was the only way I could get the files small enouph to post with my picture program.

Joe Driver


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## RAFster

FWIW, 
Noticed Big Lots was advertising the foam interlocking mats that some use for 18th scale track surfaces. Theirs is $8 for four (4) 2x2 foot mats and 8 borders. They are 1/2 inch thick and are non-slip design. 
Don't know if they would have them in your area or not.


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## wcrotty

I would hold off on the TrackMate system. It uses lasers as a counter and is not that reliable. There is a new system coming out soon that uses the RFID technology and works great. Every driver can get there own transponder and program all the car information on the tag.


I'm a beta tester of the product and it works great. 

http://www.corespeedway.com


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## okracer

how far are you from haveing this ready to sell and how much do you think it will cost


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## okracer

you can get the foam blocks at sams and walmart also


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## wcrotty

The counter should be ready in a couple weeks and costs $499.
It comes with 6 transponders.

The software is included.


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## rayhuang

Do any of yu guys have pics of modifying the SC18 to run saddle packs? I dont think I can do it without making the Main chassis super fragile after I dremel in the tape slots.

If this is a no can do thing-Bud-send me a V2 conversion then.


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## Donald Deutsch

Ray. you need the conversion to do it right.


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## Micro_Racer

All you need is some foam in the middle of the battiery tray. I used foam from insulation.


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## rayhuang

Donald Deutsch said:


> Ray. you need the conversion to do it right.


okee dokee. man-I was so close to finishing it too.


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## BudBartos

Ray V2 conversion on it's way to You.


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## JoeDriver

*Battery holder*

How are you guys holding the saddle packs in on the SCV2? I want to be able to change packs quickly since I am renting out the cars.
Thanks.
Joe Driver


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## Micro_Racer

I use tap


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## rayhuang

BudBartos said:


> Ray V2 conversion on it's way to You.


 Got it-thanks!!


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## matthew_z

Hello All,

Thought I'd come to the SC-18 gurus for a question -- good sources of aftermarket bodies for SC-18? Like Bud's options, but I'm actually looking for a MINI Cooper (BMW) and Rover Cooper (Classic) body that I can shoe-horn a SC-18 into..

Take care,
matthew Z.


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## BudBartos

Don't know of those being available!!


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## matthew_z

Hey Bud,

Ouch! Way to rain on my parade! Just kidding. You've always been a straight shooter here, so it doesn't hurt THAT bad. Anyhoo, do your old adapters for HPI micro RS-4 work with the V2 chassis? I realize the "SC-18" aftermarket field is a tad narrow, but micro RS-4 compatibility should open my options a tad. BTW, this is the guy who talked to you last year about getting an SC-18, and held off while awaiting the V2 release. Still wanna build a Mach 5 and Shooting Star body, it's not fair that Mini-Z owners get all the fun there..

Take care,
Matthew Z.


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## BudBartos

Yes the old adaptors will work with the V2.


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## BadSign

Hello,

I was wondering what the width of the GTP body is at the wheel wells.

Thanks!


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## BudBartos

4 1/2 " wide.


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