# JL/AW Front axle?



## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

I've noticed my AW has quite a bit of "slop" or play in the front axle. Side to side is easy to fix as I've found pushing the right side rim in more. "Up" and "Down" play I haven't quite figured out. 

The reason its a problem is because I put different front tires on; I'm actually using thinner rear tires from a Tomy on the front. What is happening is the front tires are now "catching" the body of my Dash's '55. What I'm wondering is what can I use as a axle replacement? 

I could've sworn I had seen on here something about brass rod? I've found that my local hobby store does in fact carry brass rod but I'm unsure what size (diameter) rod I'm going to need. 

Anyone have any insight? 

Thanks.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Try a couple of your Tyco front tires on the rims, I think you had the wider front wheels in which case they'll work.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

I think I do too. I'll try 'em out and see. Thanks Gene.

BTW, are you busy next weekend?


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## mking (Apr 25, 2000)

*1/16 brass rod*

hi

you can try the 1/16 brass tubing or 1/16 piano wire

the paino wire is solid and stronger, you will then need some sort of axle retainer (i use the red tubes that come with cans of WD40 or air).

the tube is easier to use b/c you can use a pin (jewelry pins work better than sewing pins, they have a bigger head)

then you need hubs, you can buy aftermarket brass hubs (JW or wizzard) or just use stock t-jet hubs. you need to ream the stock t-jet hubs out abit


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

Ok cool. I had thought it was the 1/16" brass tubing but I wasn't sure of the size originally. 

I've got to hit up Wizzard's website because I do need some new hubs.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

440 said:


> I think I do too. I'll try 'em out and see. Thanks Gene.
> 
> BTW, are you busy next weekend?


This coming weekend might not work for me, we can try again in a couple weeks.



(edit) Did you try the Tyco front tires?


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

I did, they didn't really help. What I ended up doing was taking apart a spare Tomy rear axle assembly I had, then cut it down drilled out the center of the AW rims and put them on it. 

It helped with taking the "slop" out of the front end but I didn't drill the rims straight so they caught up on the body. I ended up picking up some 1/16" brass rod from my local hobby shop in Newton today took another set of Tomy rear rims drilled them to 1/16" and stuck them on the brass rod. Worked great. Been running the car all evening. The new front axle and new rims with tires seemed to help out its handling quite a bit. Now I need to get some silicone's for it. 

Also, on a side note related to axles. Has anyone thought about making up Carbon Fiber axle assemblies? The hobby shop in Newton carries CF rods in various diameters. I'm thinking of doing some experimenting with the CF. 

Gene, I'm getting married on the 22nd so it'd have to be after that. I'll give you a call.


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

Here's a suggestion for your front axle needs that may be less expensive, and more convenient:

Use a JL/AW Thunderjet front axle and rear Afx MT rims. Ream one rim with a rear axle ( the knurled axle will open the rim so it will spin freely on the axle. This will make it independent). The other rim will fit on the sharp end. You can now use Tyco or Tomy front tires on your 'new' front axle.

NJ Nostalgia hobby should have plenty of AW/JL Thunderjet or Aurora Tuff Ones front axles and Afx MT rear rims on hand.


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Rabbit Racing has independent brass front end sets w/ O-Ring tires in choice of
.058" or .065" axles.


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Axles*

Hello:

This is a radical step to fix the axle holes on the J/L A/W X-traction. STOCK AXLE

I only do this for racing cars only not for runners, since it takes atleast a day.

I usaully take apart all my cars then take the best parts to make a racer. I have learned that with the axle holes, I must fix this problem first. 

If making a racer, at the same time, I redo all the holes except the rear axle. The holes for the pancake arm is .0635. This will make a HUGH difference, after filling the holes then choose the motor.

Using ONLY the chassis with the rear axle in place find ( or make ) a stand with a hole that fits the rear axle. Second, place masking tape on both the inner OR outer sides, then fill the hole with super glue. Besure not to over do it!!! Use a cloth to remove the excess. Usually, a small dip will occur in the hole. Using the stand, place the chassis vertically in the stand. Allow to dry. Re-drill the holes. Repeat the steps on the other side

Most hobby shops will have small enough drill bits that will work. If I remember correctly, .049 is the size of the axle. Also, buy some "reamers" at the hobby shop to clean the new hole and will help "float" the new axle.

IMPORTANT NOTE - Make sure that on the front axle that the flange has been removed from the pointed end. If not, all that work is for nothing.!!!!!!!!

Voxxer


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