# Removing Lawn Tractor Wheel



## smata67 (Nov 29, 2005)

See attached photos. I think the wheel is press fit into the shaft. How do I get it off? I have a pulley puller, but it has 3 jaws, is there a special tool for this or something I can rig up?


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## suprcop67 (Sep 12, 2006)

i have used a steering wheel type puller with allthread through the holes in the rim. then i heated the center of the rim. it wasnt pretty but it worked. i just made sure i put anti seize on the axle shaft so it wouldnt get stuck again


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## indypower (Apr 8, 2009)

It is rusted on. First spray the hell out of it with penetrating oil. Then, using the holes, attatch a puller using bolts, nuts & washers long enough to go thru the holes. And yes, you may have to use heat. Once it is off, sand the rust off the shaft then apply never seize.


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## smata67 (Nov 29, 2005)

Well I got some eyebolts to go through the holes and rigged up the puller. I tightened it to the point where I felt the wheel might start deforming, did not budge. I'll try the penetrating stuff.


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## billsmowers (Mar 21, 2008)

here is how i do it i use a 10 ton porta power with a hub puller atachment on it then 2 chains around the wheel and a short socket bar to the ram just apply pressure spray with easy slip apply more pressure and it should start to move


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## junkyarddoggie (May 24, 2007)

I've has this problem several times before. It is rusted on. I had to use heat to remove every time. Definitely use some anti seize on the shaft. Clean the shaft with some sand paper, as well as the wheel hole prior to re installing.


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## smata67 (Nov 29, 2005)

Torched it to no avail. 3/8" eyebolts pulled apart. Just don't have the equipment it is going to take to do this one, time for the pros. $250 to replace rear tires, if I'm lucky, crap.


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## Gocart (Mar 28, 2008)

Drive it around until it falls off.

Penetrating oil is a good idea, but you should let it soak over night.


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## smata67 (Nov 29, 2005)

The right puller might make a difference. Anyone point me in the right direction to acquire it? Something like this would work, but the holes are 4 1/2" apart on my wheels. Also, I'd need a 5/16-24 bolt with a cup in the head, I've already crushed the first few threads struggling with my inadequate puller.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00971565000P?mv=rr


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

Gocart said:


> Drive it around until it falls off.


Been driving mine around for two yrs with the bolts out, hoping it would fall off, still hasn't.


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## smata67 (Nov 29, 2005)

My tire adventure comes to an end, at least for now. Deciding I had the wrong tool for the job, I planned on ordering the above puller (mine was the claw type rigged up) and enlarging it to accommodate a 4 1/2" spread. But first I stopped by the local lawn mower repair shop (Wick's in Alexandria) to see if I could find out what they used. The helpful personnel there suggested the best alternative was to simply slip in a tube. So I did and it appears to work perfectly. I completely removed the old tire, inspected for snags on it and the wheel. I filed off the rough spots on the wheel and wrapped the welded seam with duct tape. The tire came off easily enough (maybe because its old?) and, amazingly, also installed without a hitch. Maybe the old bead was a factor here, but I also used the vise clamp trick to hold the bead while finishing up the install. Rubbed the wheel and bead with liquid soap to smooth things up. Interestingly, as the tube filled and the beads seated, air began to get compressed between the two, so it would pay to bend the stem back and forth to get it out while filling. We'll see how it holds.


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

It will work fine, I've installed several tubes with rim on tractor, the air between tire and tube will happen anyway you install it.
(you have to be creative sometimes)


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## smata67 (Nov 29, 2005)

So I got both tires on without removing the wheels, not too bad in the end. The painting of the wheels was a great tip, gives the bead a nice smooth finish to seat on. I think I learned another thing. Best to remove the valve from the valve stem before fighting it on. Is lubing the rimhole and valve, grabbing it with pliers, and rotating while pulling the only way to get these on? Seems like there ought to be a less destructive way...


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