# 1/16 Fujimi Countach



## Dave621955

Hey all. I was reminising about the old days of car building and thought I'd try my hand again at something that didn't float, run on tracks, hard rubber tires or fly (sort of). I'd built one of these years and years ago rememebered it was kinda fun, got another one and well here goes. Here are a couple of pics of the kit before I ruine it.


































After unpacking and dryfitting I must say I didn't remember how bad the flash and molding lines were. Well anyway I was able to get the body and sub frame assembly cleaned up and put the lower engine assembly together before the Minnisota game started. 










More to follow. Enjoy Dave


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## superduty455

Dave, keep the updates coming. I have this kit as well. It has some value to me for personal reasons, so I'd love to see you keep at it. Ruin it well my friend!:thumbsup:
Chris


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## Dave621955

Had some time between snowflakes so I put some time in on the Countach. Have the engine and subframe together and painted.

























Notice the gray? I use spray faux fabric to give the illusion of carpet, it takes color very well. And for you ship builders out there it works super for the initial coat of an aircraft carrier flight deck.










Engine cradled and ready for engine bay detail.


















Till later enjoy Dave


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## Dyonisis

I can't wait to see the rest of the interior, and engine come together - those are always my favorite parts to work on. What color is this going to be? 

~ The God of still needing to get paid


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## Dave621955

Got the interior puttied, sanded and primed.


















The suspension and engine are pretty much done now. I plan to run a few more wires and than satin coat the works.


































Now on to the body! Please enjoy - Dave


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## superduty455

Coming along nicely.The engine looks great. Amazing what some wires can do for realism.
Chris


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## Chuck

I got a Fujimi 1/16 Countach kit around 1988 and after completing the engine, chassis and some interior abandoned it. It was going to be all white - body, interior, wheels. I picked it back up again a few years ago, redid some things and finally finished it. Changed the wheels to aluminum, exterior to yellow and interior to beige. Had it at NNL east in 2008 (I think). I'll try and get some pics to post.

IIRC the front trunk needed the spare tire ground down in order to close, the rear engine cover didn't close fully (forget what it hits on), and of course the doors are really finicky. Yours is a different kit (Koenig edition) so maybe these problems won't affect you - or maybe it was the builder's fault! :freak:


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## Dave621955

Thanks for the reminder Chuck, I'd forgotten about that. I'm starting to put the body together, I'll remember to dry fit for clearence. This Koenig edition has some really different ground effects compared to the original I did before. 

As far as the door go I glue them in place, I know it's cheating but mine are always static display anyways so, what the hey.

Thanks Dave


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## Chuck

Here's mine:


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## Dave621955

Chuck,

Thats pretty sweet. After seeing yours I may try the working parts again. The door are still a big problem though?? And what did you use to get the carpet texture, it looks more defined that the faux fabris I've used.
Thanks for sharing. Dave


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## Dyonisis

Chuck - that's a badass Countach! That's how they're supposed to look once painted. I was going to pick one of these up on feeblebay, but I forgot about the auction. I doesn't matter, no one else bid on it either. Someday I build one maybe, but not today....

~ The God of still needing to get paid


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## Chuck

Thanks - it actually looks better in pics. But it was fun to build in a bigger scale. The doors were a little warped (the window frames are thin) so it took some creative bending to fit to the body. Also, they don't open up real smooth but they do operate. The carpet was done with fuzzi-fur, it's a model car product that you sprinkle over wet paint or glue. Looks even better in a smaller scale.


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## RallyJack

Makes me want to delve into my stash to build my 1/16 Contach!!!


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## Dyonisis

Chuck said:


> Thanks - it actually looks better in pics. But it was fun to build in a bigger scale. The doors were a little warped (the window frames are thin) so it took some creative bending to fit to the body. Also, they don't open up real smooth but they do operate. The carpet was done with fuzzi-fur, it's a model car product that you sprinkle over wet paint or glue. Looks even better in a smaller scale.


I used Detail Master for the fleece flocking in my 1/12th scale '57 Chevy. It came off in a couple places, so I'll have to redo it. I used Elmers, but it still didn't stick - I'll use superglue medium thick = BSI insta cure +. It doesn't craze (turn white) when dry. 

That Lambroghini is still badass. I'd paint mine black, or white. I'm thinking of a pearl blue color for the body, and medium charcoal grey interior just for something a little different.

~ Still sick of being the God of still needing to get paid


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## Dave621955

Christmas is over, company is gone (all eight of them - in our house - thirteen days total!!) it's so nice to be back to the bench. Did a bit on the Countach. Again I'd forgotten, or at least put it out of my mind all the little things that need fixing. The ejector pin marks on the inside of the hood, trunk and other trunk need to be filled if the model is displayed open. And there are rather large sinks in the doors and the rear trunk lid.


















As I'd mentioned before I display my work static so I do fix doors, lights, deck lids etc... either open or shut. As before the lights will be closed so I filled the gap with squadron green, will smooth out and scribe the lines more to scale with the real car.










As for the doors the passenger door will be closed (not much to see there) and I'll fix the driver door open. By doing this you can live with the warp in the molding of the doors as well as scratch build a lifting assembly for the drivers door that resembles the actual lift.


















Till next time enjoy and thanks for the suggestions guys, I think I'll try out the fuzzy-fur if for no other reason it sounds friggen cool. Rallyjack -- go for it! Post some pics, I'm painting mine white (hides a lot of sins)

Dave


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## Dave621955

Have the interior about done. A bit more detail but thats to be expected. Not sure about ya'll but everytime I look at the interior of a model I see something more that "could" be done. I shot the major parts in Model Masters leather and was rather pleased.
















The dash is done, I think! I've looked at several Koenig Countachs on line (I'd like to see one from behind the steering wheel) and the white exterior ones all have brown leather, they call it tan interiors with this oddball flat white and flat black dash combo. I'd planned on white on brown interior but I'm not sure if I should stick with the dase colors or modify it??
















Anyway, the body is comming along ok. I filled in the seam lines in the passenger door and the lights and shot it with Omni primer/surfacer and will wet sand it before scribing in the lines. The drivers door is still causing problems. I'd like to bend it a bit before paint, it would make putting in the window so much easier. ??








Thanks for all the comments. Please enjoy. Dave


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## Dave621955

The body continues to be, shall we say a challenge! I've attached a couple of pics showing the huge gaps between the body and the front nose assembly. I'll have to cut about a 1/4 inch out of it.








The rear isn't any better.








And both leading and trailing edges of the fenders had to be removed. I'll fabricate inner wells for it after the body is attached.








And as I was fitting the center Koenig body kit I notices several gaps between the front, sort of trunk and the light pods that have to be filled (white styrene) as well as some in the engine bay around the radiators. Pic of trunk?








The kit has as many problems as I remember but all in all it's a worthy topic and a fun build, if you like to modify.

Enjoy Dave. 

By the way, has anyone out there built this kit?? I'd like to know what you did to fit the front nose section.


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## Dave621955

*I need some help on this one folks!!*

Well I have the body ready to paint.


















And shot it. Tamiya white rattle can, I should have known better.










Can't really see it but it has more runs than a bad major league pitcher. So I wetsanded, dried it, wetsanded some more, dried it, looked it over and reshot it, this time I have no excuse! OOPS!!! Never will I use a rattle can again (maybe).

I know there is something out there that you can soak a model in to remove enamel paint without removing the plastic, what is it? Or do I scrap it and scratch build a jeep body for the frame?? Possibly put the engine in a tank??

Any and all suggestions will be appreicated.

Dave


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## Chuck

I've used Pine-Sol, and I have heard that Castrol Super Clean (degreaser) works even better. Here's a comprehensive comparison: http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html


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## RallyJack

The product for model stripping I am familar with is Polly S "Easy-Lift-Off". It is less dangerous for the underlying plastic. Never heard of it damaging the plastic.


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## Dave621955

Thanks for the help Chuck and RallyJack. I'm giving the purple power a try. 










If in a few days that doesn't work I'll try the Easy Off. From there it's the Polly S easy lift. Found some on line and it'll be here in a week or so.

Hope my next post has some good results.

Dave


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## Dave621955

RallyJack, Polly S works great. Takes a bit of brushing because it doesn't lift the laquer paint it melts it. The putty is shot from all the "other" things I tried.. the OLD Easy Off, Super Clean, brake fluid, CRC degreaser and even ZipStrip (yes I was that desperate, yes Zip Strip melts plastic, yes I'll scratch build another side scoop). Wish I'd of had access to Polly S from the start, or at least the patience to wait for some.

Dave


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## RallyJack

Dave,
Glad I could help from my past experiences. Just proves being an old geezer is good for sumthin!!!!


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## Dave621955

Well after to much time spent re-doing the putty, sanding etc... it's ready for primer. Note the new side scoops. look almost like the originals.
















I'll prime with a flat white filler sealer and yes I'm goint to try the Tamiya again.








I was told to heat the can a bit, light coats with several minutes between coats, or use a dryer and most importantly PATIENTS!!

I'll let ya'll know in a day or so.

Dave


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## Dyonisis

Dave621955 said:


> Well after to much time spent re-doing the putty, sanding etc... it's ready for primer. Note the new side scoops. look almost like the originals.
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> I'll prime with a flat white filler sealer and yes I'm goint to try the Tamiya again.
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> I was told to heat the can a bit, light coats with several minutes between coats, or use a dryer and most importantly PATIENTS!!
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> Dave


Patients, or - patience? I hope you mean the latter of the two?  

Either way, I'm glad to see this coming along. 

~ Still sick of being the God of being unwanted


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## erikd

Looking good Dave - how about some pics with some paint on this beast!
Erik


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## Dave621955

Got it painted, finally. After shooting with Tamiya, again I ended up with a few (lots!!) of thingys in the finish. a LITTLE wet sanding and a couple of coats of automotive 3 part urethane and her she be.


































I think it came out rather nice. I'll give it a few days to cure and than start assembly.

Please enjoy Dave


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## falcondesigns

Great. job.......what clear coat do you use?


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## Dave621955

I use Omni clear, I think it's a line made by PPG. I get it by the quart, at the local Auto Value here. You need a hardener and reducer for it. I really recommend it, it's easy to spray and as you can see the depth of the shine is great. Only two things to keep in mind, it really stinks so you need a paint booth or do it in a garage and you have to take care cleaning your air brush. If you want to try it check at a local body shop and they will probably give you an oz or two.

Thanks for the comments. Dave


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## falcondesigns

I live in Puerto Rico,and I think those products would be hard to come by here,but thanks for the info.


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## RallyJack

Dave,
If you are painting with a paint requiring a catalyst (hardener) you need to use a respirator to protect your lungs from "burning"!!! I agree about the shine, I used a similar product from DelStar to paint all of our rally cars. It was like wet-look after just a car wash! But protect yourself buddy!!! Please!!!


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## Dave621955

Got it covered RallyJack. I use a 3M organic. Thanks for the concern.

Dave


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## Dave621955

Back at it. I think this thing is cursed. After the second painting, sanding ... I dropped a box of grinding discs on it and cracked the roof soooo I threw it in a box and finished up the Langley. Anyway a bit more bodywork and it's time to continue on. I finished all the interior detail, complete with racing pedels and faux carpeting.








I have the body ready to install on the frame
























and once thats done these can go on.








Hope to get back on it tonight.

Please enjoy Dave


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## Dave621955

Got it done.
































































Now on to ??? I only hope it's not possesed like this one was.

Please enjoy Dave


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## superduty455

I love it Dave. Been following along quietly. I love it.
Chris


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## RallyJack

Dave,
Its magnificent! Monte Bella!!!!!!!


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## Chuck

Very nice - for all the problems you had with the paint it turned out beautiful.


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## Dave621955

Chris, RallyJack and Chuck thanks for the comments. 

I learned a bunch on this build, not only about modeling cars but especially about the folks on this site. I must say that in all my years and on all the other sites, and there have been a few I've never been privileged to belong to a group who is so willing to offer advice and give praise, not criticism. Thanks again and I hope to start a new thread soon, not sure what yet probably a Peterbuilt to pull the trailer and Cat.

Dave


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## falcondesigns

Great work....inspired me to pull out my 25th anniversery Fugimi Countach and start on it.


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## Ian Anderson

butterfly work on the lamb dave, love the lines on that car, Much nicer then a Bugatti Veyron really, but if they held me down a forced me to chose, 
WELL, I wouldn't have a chose now wold I, lol,... 200, or 250 Hummmm ???


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