# Craftsman 32cc #358-795580



## Ha Y N Built (Nov 27, 2001)

Here's my situation: 2 years ago I purchased a Craftsman 32cc weedwacker for $114.00. It has probably a total of 6hrs use. Always started right up with no problems or difficulties. Well, yesterday it died on me and would not fire back up. It just shut down as if the off button was pressed. No matter how many times I would pull on the string, it just would not fire up. I changed the spark plug and still no luck. Well, I finally gave in and brought it to my Sears service center. The technician said labor would be $80 and then a magneto aka ignition module would be an additional $85.00. I said "Good Lord! This wacker only cost $114.00, so why would I pay more to get this one fixed?" Then left and jumped online to see if I could find a cheaper solution to fixing this thing. This weedwacker has loads of power and I like the way it feels, so I wasn't going to give up on it just yet. I came here and after reading other's threads, I got inspired to take my weedwacker apart~~ Thanks Hankster and members! The black wire for the kill switch runs next to the clutch and about 6" along the shaft. This black wire some how vibrated away from the protective channel it runs in and got pinched between the end of the shaft and the clutch. I don't know if it shorted out or just lost connection from the pinch, but when I retucked it in along the channel next to the yellow wire, it fired right up and I was back to weedwacking my yard. I was sooo close to purchasing a new one, because it's a must have tool for me. No spark was being delivered because of this wire and the technician assumed it was the magneto. I now know that it was something as simple as a pinched wire. So, don't be affraid to take your unit apart and inspect it yourself before making costly repairs or throwing it away. 
Cheers,
DJ


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Glad to hear you got it running. About the labor costs. We ask that customers preapprove the $85.00 cost limit (for handheld 2-cycle product). In the vast majority of cases this will cover any repairs needed. In your case if it would have needed an ign. module the cost would have been $52.99 for labor plus $26.00 for the part.

The reason preapproval is asked for is because we know that the vast majory of items can be fixed for less then this. This eliminates the need to troubleshoot the item then take the time to call the customer to seek approval... I'd say 75% of the time we call during the day no one is at home so it has to go to CS so they can call them in the evening... if approved then it has to come back to us to be fixed. As you can see, that is a lot of extra time and labor involved.

As a note, if you ever send anything in to be fixed, be sure to make the preapproval. If you are not willing to spend that amount then most likely it is not worth fixing to you. If the cost to fix it is over that amount you will be called to approve the higher amount. If you decline the estimate you are NOT changed a bench fee. If you do not make a preapproval and then decline the estimate, you ARE charged a $29.99 bench fee.


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## Ha Y N Built (Nov 27, 2001)

*I LIKE YOUR FEES.....UNFORTUNATELY>>>>*

I live in Hawaii and everything here seems twice as much as the Mainland.

You should move here Hankster and bring you fees with you  Prior to going online, I called a company here called "Small engine Clinic" and they quoted me $109.00 for the magneto...go figure!!!!!!! It really drives me crazy to here that the part is only $26.00 there and cost a weeks paycheck here. Damn shame! 

Thanks for the reply Hankster! BTW, you say "WE ask the costumers..." Do you work for Sears???? If so, my write up wasn't meant to degrade the Sears Service Center. You should call the Hawaii branch and ask why they're charging soooooooo much more than the Mainland.

Thanks again,
DJ


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Yes, I do repairs for Sears... at least until I was laid off for the season. Very well could be that the prices are lower on the Mainland... as you know seems everything is more expensive in the land of pineapple and sugarcane. But you should be able to buy parts from the Sears web site and have them shipped to you.


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## Ha Y N Built (Nov 27, 2001)

Hankster,
Thanks for the info on where to find the parts. Because of the huge price difference, I called my service center again and got a totally different price quote. She said the the Ignition module cost $35 and they have 5 available. Soooooo different from the other technician I spoke to the other day. He said $80.00 and none available. Cost another $5 to order the part. This is a big deal for me because eventually I will need parts and now I know where to find them or who to talk to. The lady technician's price quote sounds right for Hawaii's higher prices, but not no dang $80.

Hankster, Your knowledge/help/advise is greatly appreciated, Thank you!!!!

I'm a diehard Sears fan! I just picked up Sear's new 18" bar 52cc chain saw to cut down a monster mango tree. The incredi-pull is just that...Incredible!!!! Starts sooooooooo easy with hardly any effort and cuts like butter. Well, gotta go and do more yard work.

Aloha,
DJ


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## danny (Mar 30, 2008)

*I think I have the same problem*

I was very intrigued by this posting...enough to join hobby talk : ). I believe I have the same issue with my crafstman weed wacker because all of the symptoms are the same. However, I am unable to remove the casing on my craftsman to see if there is a pinched wire. I am unable to remove the metal cylander coming from the motor where the drive shaft inserts. This little metal cylander needs to come off before I can remove the plastic engine casing that houses the wiring. I am baffled how this thing is removed. There is a screw in the mittle of the cylander that I try to unscrew, but am not sure which way it is threaded and if there is a trick to getting it out. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!


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## Leviosa (Apr 23, 2008)

*I'm going to kill it!*



danny said:


> I was very intrigued by this posting...enough to join hobby talk : ). Any suggestions?
> Thanks in advance!


Me too! Originally saw it as a 'thread' on the internet and once I got here, Whew! Great site!

Okay then...same sheeeit...different day. Would could possibly get a sore shoulder with one of these e-z pull devices?

History: Purchased approx. 1+ year ago. Used approx. 5 times; mind you this was only after going through the time-tested patience of trying...wait...trying. When running I'm not sure if there's another one that's better in its class.

Problem: Fires up usually 3rd pull for 5 seconds and quits like death. Try again, peeved.

How many people own a weedwacker for $114.00 and use it 5 times? Is this thing a 'lemon.' Sell it buy something else?

PLEASE HELP!!!

Leviosa


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

My guess is it needs a carb clean and adjustment. Using something like this very little is almost worse then using it a lot. When the fuel/oil mix evaporates, it leaves behind residue from the fuel and the oil (since it deosn't evaporate. This can clog the inlet screen and the small passages in the carb.


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## herbstjm (Jun 11, 2009)

Guys, 

I am a new member to hobby talk. I followed a web search to the hobbytalk blog because I am trying to fix my neighbor's Craftsman Weedwacker model #358.795580. I am pretty sure it needs a new ignition module but I cant get the rear cowling off of the engine to access it. It looks like the clutch needs to come off of the drive shaft to remove the rear cowling. Does anyone have any advice on how to remove the clutch mechanism? I am looking at it and I see that it's stamped "Off" with a little arrow indicating that it should turn off counterclockwise, but I cant get it to budge!
Any suggestions for me. I'm Joe, a diy guy frustrated by a weedwacker in Virginia!
Thanks!!


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## Deathrite (May 21, 2009)

hankster said:


> My guess is it needs a carb clean and adjustment. Using something like this very little is almost worse then using it a lot. When the fuel/oil mix evaporates, it leaves behind residue from the fuel and the oil (since it deosn't evaporate. This can clog the inlet screen and the small passages in the carb.


#1 problem we see here. both in 4 and 2 cycle.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Pull the spark plug and push some rope into the cylinder to stop the engine from turning over. You can then use a screwdriver and hammer to knock the clutch loose.


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## jessev_45 (Aug 31, 2009)

*Craftsman Weedwacker 32cc 358.795580 gas lines*

I'm new to this forum. Seems like lots of good info. My problem - I'm trying to replace the gas lines in my son's weedwacker. Is there a fuel line install diagram available?

I think there should be two filters inside the gas tank but I only found one. I want to replace all fuel lines but I need to know where they go. Any help would be appreciated.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

What brand and model weedwacker?


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## Lawnmowertech (Nov 12, 2008)

jessev_45 said:


> > I'm new to this forum. Seems like lots of good info.
> 
> 
> My problem - I'm trying to replace the gas lines in my son's weedwacker. Is there a fuel line install diagram available?
> ...


not only that but its a nice atmosphere alot of helpful folks on this site one comes to mind 30 year geogrubb hankster and many others offer there helpful advice to other members and together we can keep these older units and older equipment running 

i belong to alot of forums dealing with ope products and i have to say hobbytalk is one of the best ones out there when it comes to being kind to others 

calvin


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