# Briggs 12HP Toro Wheelhorse won't start



## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

Model 71188 12-32

The previous owner claimed it ran last year but it just needed a battery. Long story short I said if you can allow me to put a battery in to try it and see if it runs, you have a deal. He said he had a new one from his other mower and would put it in. He called back 10 minutes later to say it cranks but won't fire. I said as long as I have your word it ran last year, we have a deal if you throw in that battery. 

Fast forward when I finally get it home. It cranks, has spark I am almost certain it has compression, but just won't start. There are 3 sets of plugs that are unplugged that I have no idea where they go. one Blk/Wht single wire, One Gray - One Red/Wht double wire plug and One Black - One Brown double wire plug. I downloaded the schematic but it's not helping me, I have 3 female plug ends with no male ends to plug them into. I would attach pics for you to see but the mods won't allow a newbie to do this. I have the links I can share in a PM if needed. So I had a good mechanic friend of mine stop by. I go to crank it and no more then 2 seconds into it, the motor just stops (mind you I was working on it for 2 hours before this with no issue). Turns our the the blade was engaged and was all of a sudden hitting the inside of the mower housing. My friend said it would be wise to check to see if the woodruff key for the flywheel is sheered. He said if that happened during mowing the momentum of the flywheel would keep it turning and throw the timing off. Unfortunately I did not have the correct socket size to remove the bolt on the flywheel to check the key. *25 mm I assume?*. So my hope is the timing is just the issue, but I am thinking this guy lied or something worse happened he's not disclosing and tried working on it himself. There are no screws holding the upper shroud along with all those plugs unplugged.

Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks!


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## mikel m14 (Jul 27, 2009)

On the blade hitting the deck make sure blade isn't loose.
I would go ahead and replace spark plug if you haven't already. Then put a little fuel into the cylinder then try to start, if it doesn't then check the key. If key isnt sheared then check compression.
Not sure on the connectors but if its cranking and you have spark then it should start.


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## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

mikel m14 said:


> On the blade hitting the deck make sure blade isn't loose.
> I would go ahead and replace spark plug if you haven't already. Then put a little fuel into the cylinder then try to start, if it doesn't then check the key. If key isnt sheared then check compression.
> Not sure on the connectors but if its cranking and you have spark then it should start.


It wouldn't even fire with starting fluid. Plug looks great. But I just pulled the bolt off the flywheel and its confirmed, the key is sheared. 

I will pick up a key and hopefully it will fire up. Still doesn't explain the 3 unplugged wires though.


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## mikel m14 (Jul 27, 2009)

On those wires where are they coming from? Is the original engine still on it?
Do you have a link to the wiring schematic? 
I did find a wiring diagram for 93-95 12-32xl.


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## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

Posting a 3 of 5 times so I can share at link....


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## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

Posting a 4 of 5 times so I can share at link....


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## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

Posting a 5 of 5 times so I can share at link....


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## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

mikel m14 said:


> On those wires where are they coming from? Is the original engine still on it?
> Do you have a link to the wiring schematic?
> I did find a wiring diagram for 93-95 12-32xl.


HERE is a Dropbox link to a PDF of the schematic and HERE is the link to the page where it is found. I am starting to think that it may not be the original motor. But one of the sets of wires (Brown & Red I believe) come from the chassis and the Black/White one does too and it is supposed to go the the solenoid from what I see, but the solenoid I have doesn't have a 4th terminal for that wire.


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## mikel m14 (Jul 27, 2009)

Sent you a pm


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

tjlmbklr said:


> HERE is a Dropbox link to a PDF of the schematic and HERE is the link to the page where it is found. I am starting to think that it may not be the original motor. But one of the sets of wires (Brown & Red I believe) come from the chassis and the Black/White one does too and it is supposed to go the the solenoid from what I see, but the solenoid I have doesn't have a 4th terminal for that wire.


Sometimes wiring harness used on some models will not use all the wires. There may be other models of similar equipment with different options for engines and accessories that may or may not be used on the model unit you have. These units may all use the same wiring harness. It's not uncommon on many units to have unused connections.

The model number you posted was originally equipped with a Briggs & Stratton Model 282707 Type 0119-01 Engine.


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## tjlmbklr (Jun 1, 2015)

30yearTech said:


> Sometimes wiring harness used on some models will not use all the wires. There may be other models of similar equipment with different options for engines and accessories that may or may not be used on the model unit you have. These units may all use the same wiring harness. It's not uncommon on many units to have unused connections.
> 
> The model number you posted was originally equipped with a Briggs & Stratton Model 282707 Type 0119-01 Engine.


Update: My friend was right...about the sheered key that is. I replaced it and cranked it to find it still wouldn't start. I then realized I had no compression. Looks like a broken rod, or at least I hope that's all it is. I should mention, the crankcase was flooded with gas when I got it. This same thing happened to my old mower and it eventually seized the motor. So my guess is the previous owner didn't realize it was loaded with gas and cranked it causing it to have no lube and back fire sheering the key and braking the rod. 

I am no stranger to tearing apart a motor and the rod is cheap enough so I will go ahead and replace it. The mower was still worth the money IMO.


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