# An 18” Enterprise - Finished! Pics Pg 4



## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Well I put aside a freighter scratch build/kit-bash I was working on and decided to build the rerelease of the 18” AMT Enterprise. 

So here’s the progress so far.


Strengthening the Nacelles’ Pylons 

I am using a brass strip, a wooden dowel and some epoxy, as I remember the pylons broke off rather easily where they met at the lower hull. I used this method on my 22” build and it has worked out rather nicely, no breaking or drooping after about 5 years now. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3318.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3327.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3329.jpg


Getting the lower hull ready for a stand support rod. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3331.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3332.jpg

Cutting the outer rim down on the deflector housing to make it look a bit more accurate.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3321.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3320.jpg

A little weight in the front for better balance. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3344.jpg

Strengthen the upper section of the lower hull.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3340.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3341.jpg



Look no deflector lines, nice! 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3347.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3348.jpg


Here is an experiment with an older kit in an attempt to correct the angle of the rim on the upper saucer section. I am rather dubious on how it will turn out but it can’t hurt to try, I have a feeling that the outer rim will just end up being “wavy” if all those “correction” pieces aren’t just right. 


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3323.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3324.jpg


Any suggestions are gladly welcomed especially if I am missing the oblivious somewhere, which with me happens more then I would like. 


Thanks for looking.


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Very nice conversion.Looking forward to seeing more of this kit done.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Very , very nice so far!:thumbsup:
Please keep posting on your progress , glue assm. , paint , decals , ya know THE WORKS!
I am quite pleased the way my 22" turned out. Would love to see the way someone elses Enterprise turns out.
-Jim


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks Guys, here's an Update. 



Working on the Hanger 

Cut down the hanger door and sanded down the clam shaped doors to tone them down and added a platform to the back.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3358.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3352_edited.jpg


The Nacelles and Brass Strip. I dry fitted the assembled Warp Nacelles into the slots and with the brass strip inside, it really makes a difference, you can feel its stronger and both lined up on the level with out any shims. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3349.jpg


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3353.jpg

Cut Square openings in bottom of the receptacles for the Nacelles to allow the brass strip in a bit further. I am going to add a small piece of wood triangular shaped to fit in between squared receptacles for the brass strip to sit into for a little more strength and durability. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3356.jpg


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Interesting idea for correcting the angle of the saucer edge. Hope it works.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Cool! 

(However, you might make it a little easier on yourself if you use some Magic Sculpt as reinforcement and filling in between the corrective pieces.) 

You're going to make this thing look better than it was ever intended to :thumbsup:


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Cool!
> 
> (However, you might make it a little easier on yourself if you use some Magic Sculpt as reinforcement and filling in between the corrective pieces.)
> 
> You're going to make this thing look better than it was ever intended to :thumbsup:



I have never tried that stuff, but I think I might now. Is it similar to millput? Drying time? 
Pliability ? 

Thanks


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## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

You're off to a good start. Will it be lighted, and do you have any plans to accurize the shape of the B/C deck teardrop?


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

scotpens said:


> You're off to a good start. Will it be lighted, and do you have any plans to accurize the shape of the B/C deck teardrop?



Thanks, no I am not going to light and I got all the standard aftermarket parts including the B/C deck, that alone will make the model look a whole lot better.


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

Maritain said:


> I have never tried that stuff, but I think I might now. Is it similar to millput? Drying time?
> Pliability ?
> 
> Thanks


It is a two part epoxy putty,can be smooth with water,dries in about a hour.It is not like millput,which I have allways hated.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

falcon49xxx said:


> It is a two part epoxy putty,can be smooth with water,dries in about a hour.It is not like millput,which I have allways hated.


Its texture is much smoother than Milliput (which I always found to be gritty) and is easier to work with. (Though it is also classified as a two part A+B epoxy putty as Milliput is.)

The putty is adhesive as well as cohesive and is easy to bond on most surfaces (unless they're smooth as glass or very flexible).

I use rubbing alcohol to smooth it and use a brush and sculpting tools to put in details. It sands really well and will even work on plumbing, woodwork, and other projects around the house. The Compleat Sculptor has it online:

http://www.sculpt.com/

Look in the product catalog tab under the letter "M."


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## Modeler1964 (Aug 13, 2006)

I have started using the Aves apoxy putty. Great stuff. It is a must if you are an AMT Trek modeler! LOL! Great build up BTW! I am reall interested on how your proposed fix for the angle on the primary hull comes out!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Just a small update.

I cut the kit’s inaccurate bridge off and replaced it with the aftermarket B/C deck from Federation Models and what an improvement already. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3361.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3366.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3367.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3370.jpg

All Puttied Up.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3371.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3372.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3373.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3378.jpg


I going to work on the corrected rim of the saucer over time so I don’t think I will add it to this build, I just want to keep it relatively simple for now. This is actually a nice build overall with all the aftermarket parts; it should make for a decent Enterprise when done. After building the big P.L. 1/350 Refit and the 22’ Enterprise its kind a nice to work on something that not so involved and it’s a decent size scale too, fun for future Enterprise variation as well.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Looking incredibly cool!


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Looking incredibly cool!


:thumbsup:I 2nd that comment!:thumbsup:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

M - I used your idea of slicing the outer rim down on the def. housing and I gotta say it works great! The next one of these I build, I'm going more aggressive on it.

I've been hesitant about the $ for the acc. kits, but watching our build is showing me their worth so far. Looking forward to more!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Model Man
I've been hesitant about the $ for the acc. kits said:


> Yea the acc parts do add up I would say if you do get any the Bridge B/C decks are what will really make the kit look better.
> 
> Merry Christmas


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Preparing for the aftermarket Flux Chillers, I place a piece of styrene inside filled with putting so there would be no gaps. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3381.jpg


Cut down the brass inserts so they can fit into the piece of wood inside the upper part of the lower hull. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3382.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3387.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3388.jpg


Drying fitting the Nacelles, nice fit so far, no shims should be needed, just a small piece of styrene and putty to finish them off. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3391.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3394.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3389.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3390.jpg

The lower hull I had to redo because the original one was too warped, so I used lower section form the old blue kit. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3498.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3499.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3501.jpg



Thanks for looking, any advice welcomed.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

A Pro job on the superstructure! Adding the hangar deck makes that area sharper than leaving the clamshell seamline.

I was thinking about the blue kit the other day. I knew I had one or two, but hadn't heard anyone ever mention them. Did they simply run out of white plastic? Or did they get a few tons of blue no one else needed? Then there was the white w/ the green plastic and white with the clear plastic. Don't recall if there was another color plastic. I was remebering the blue as being darker than in the photo you posted. But I wouldn't be surprised if there were two tones of blue release as I'm thinking of one lighter than yours pictured as well.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Maritain said:


> Thanks for looking, any advice welcomed.


My only advice for you is to keep up the good work!:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Model Man said:


> Don't recall if there was another color plastic. I was remebering the blue as being darker than in the photo you posted. But I wouldn't be surprised if there were two tones of blue release as I'm thinking of one lighter than yours pictured as well.


I remember the first 18" I made was about 1975 and it was white, then about two years later it was blue. The reissue in the 90's was an off-white I believe.



Thanks for the encouragement guys.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

My original Aurora-release TOS E was white, as well as the AMT one I got in the early '70s. Then I didn't get any more until the early '80s. So I didn't have a "Blue Period" of 18" Enterprises! Every one I got from then till the end of the run was molded in a very light grey. Mind you, I've got some small box issues with the older artwork that are still sealed. I wonder.....!!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Weren't the blue ones essentially chase kits?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I bought and built so many of them through the years, but mostly in the late 70s / early 80s. I don't know about anyone else, but I got a lot of them that seemed to be made of whatever scrap regrind they had lying around - mostly blue and white swirled around so you could see the flow pattern of the injection molding.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I know that was the case late in the pre-76 run. I've heard of pink Klingon ships and other such oddities.


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## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

Marketing dept hadnt even begun to think about such things as "chase kits" they were re-grinding styrene.
I've seen pink, chartreuse, blue, grey, white, and combinations of all.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I'm now thinking there may have been a blue and white swirler in my past. AMT must have seen the brink by then, thus ERTL bought them up in time for the TMP release. 

Sorry to distract the topic so much! This sounds like if it continues, it should go elsewhere.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Man! That's really looking good! :thumbsup:

That's making me want to finish up my old 18" build-up of the 33" special effects model.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Looks like you're building this thing to last!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Well I had a lot of fun (not) attaching the saucer section to the lower hull. I did what I thought was a good job adding some shims to the top of the neck and filling in the gap at the front tip of the neck so as not to have to use too much putty. I used some epoxy in a modest amount to bond the saucer to the lower hull then held the saucer level for about ten minutes till I was sure it would hold. 

Then shortly after leaving it by itself the saucer started to list towards the right as I was looking at it from the impulse engines on. So I gently pulled it apart and started again, cleaned out the epoxy and just used super glue. I made three more attempts with the same results, so I decided to cut the rectangular “plug” on the neck that fits into the saucer and sand level. I then added some “plugs” of my own and attached the saucer with better results. 

After the putty dies and I am done sanding that I hope to attach the warp engines tonight and putty and sand them into place as well. 



http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3521.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3517.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3520.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3518.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3523.jpg


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

I'll have to remember this approach when I build another Constitution Class!:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Working on a Bussard “Look.” 


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3524.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3525.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3528.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3533.jpg



After-Market Reactor Intercoolers, a bit problematic because they easily break. I think these pieces are probably the hardest to cast for strength compared to the Bridge, B/C Decks, and Lower Sensor Dome. I think I might use the front of it, the flat part, and put it on the Reactor Loop that came with the kit. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3531.jpg

General Pics of the ship so far, I am waiting for the weather here to get a bit warmer (single digits today) to primer her because I have to do it outside or in the garage. I am using Tamyia sprays since my compressor is in storage until we close on our house in a couple of months so it will be a simple paint job. I still have to attach the After-Market Lower Sensor Dome as well, but so far so good. 

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3540.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3534.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3535.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3536.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3537.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3538.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3539.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3542.jpg


Thanks for taking a look.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

WOW!  Stunning job so far!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Goes to show how a little patience can go a long way! Blasting thru the process as I do leads to back stepping. She'll be a beauty.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Hello,

I primed my model using Tamiya Primer. It was the first time I have used their primer, nice stuff, lays on the model great and doesn’t smother the detail, but it is pricy stuff. I also used some Mr Surfacer on it and what a difference that makes as well, great stuff for filling in those little surface scratches and so on. 

My build has some flaws, there are still hints of seems and an uneven flow where the neck meets the saucer and my scribing is not going to win me any awards, but overall I am happy with the build so far. 

The next step will be to paint the detailed areas and mask those off before the final base coat.

Those aftermarket parts are really worth it, they really help transform this kit into something decent. 



http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3560.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3563.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3565.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3566.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3567.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3568.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3572.jpg


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3571.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3555-1.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3551.jpg


Thanks again for looking, any suggestions welcomed as usually for its still a learning process to me.


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## Larva (Jun 8, 2005)

Yours is one of the very best AMT TOS-Es that I've ever seen. Have thought about carving out the shallow recessed rectangular grooves in the three tabs that surround the deflector housing?


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Larva said:


> Yours is one of the very best AMT TOS-Es that I've ever seen. Have thought about carving out the shallow recessed rectangular grooves in the three tabs that surround the deflector housing?


Thanks Larva,

Yes I did think about it and I probably should have, wasn't sure if I could pull it off, maybe the next time. 


Have a good one.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

That looks really great!!! :thumbsup:

You fixed the teat under the saucer really well!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> That looks really great!!! :thumbsup:
> 
> You fixed the teat under the saucer really well!


Thanks,

That's funny, because that's how I thought about it too. I actually prefer the blunter sensor dome myself too. I like the look in this Sinclair Blueprint of the whole lower saucer section, sensor dome, and the whole ship for that matter. 




http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/blueprints/sinclair/sinclair-enterprise-sheet-2.gif


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Nice!:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Maritain said:


> Thanks,
> 
> That's funny, because that's how I thought about it too. I actually prefer the blunter sensor dome myself too. I like the look in this Sinclair Blueprint of the whole lower saucer section, sensor dome, and the whole ship for that matter.
> 
> ...


The somewhat phallic and feminine shapes of the 1701, intentional or not, have a lot to do with the subliminal appeal of the ship, I think. They are undeniable in their shapes--at least to my twisted mind--but it's only to a degree just a bit higher than some other ships and designs in sci-fi and real life so I don't count it for a whole lot in determining the psychological make-up of those who like the ship: "Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar.":thumbsup:


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## JohnLogan (Apr 6, 2008)

Maritain, Great build. I'm coming a little late to the party, just found this thread and read it from the start. Sorry I know it a little to late now. But, I had an idea for changing the front angle on the saucer hull. Just like you filled in the cooler area on the nacells and then removed the stock formed in place ones. You could run a snake of putty around the inside of the lower saucer hull section and press it into place. After it hardens, you can gauge mark the lower edge back to the correct spot, (the upper edge would stay as is) and remove,grind, however, the unwanted material away.
Just a thought. Like I said, great build,just got mine yesterday.
Can't wait to see your done.
-JohnLogan


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

whats closer to being correct, the orignal AMT ship or the playmate TOS ship?


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

JohnLogan said:


> Maritain, Great build. I'm coming a little late to the party, just found this thread and read it from the start. Sorry I know it a little to late now. But, I had an idea for changing the front angle on the saucer hull. Just like you filled in the cooler area on the nacells and then removed the stock formed in place ones. You could run a snake of putty around the inside of the lower saucer hull section and press it into place. After it hardens, you can gauge mark the lower edge back to the correct spot, (the upper edge would stay as is) and remove,grind, however, the unwanted material away.
> Just a thought. Like I said, great build,just got mine yesterday.
> Can't wait to see your done.
> -JohnLogan



Thanks John, that does sound like a great idea, I would like to do another one in time so I may have to try that.

Have a good one.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

woof359 said:


> whats closer to being correct, the orignal AMT ship or the playmate TOS ship?


Hmm...that's a toughie.

I'd have to go with the Playmates version. It's primarily based on the AMT molding of the time, but they corrected a number of the errors that had cropped up over the years.

Plus, there's that nifty sound chip. Luuuuuv rapid firing those photon torpedoes. :devil:


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Just came across your build.... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 
Thinking of using some of your ideas for the 22" that I am currently working on and off on. Been wondering how to better secure the saucer section to the engineering hull and it looks like you found something.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

All Finished

Well I finished my 18” Enterprise and I am quite pleased with how it turned out. It’s not perfect by any means, but I learned a lot and had fun doing it. 

Since we are apt bound and I couldn’t use my compressor (Too loud) I used Tamiya sprays as much as I could. Light Grey (USAF) was used for the basecoat and IJN Sasebo Arsenal for the darker grey bits with a dusting of the basecoat over that to tone it down. I used gold for the deflector housing and the deflector itself, I just like it better then the copper. 

The deflector is from the 1/000 Pl Ent from the pilot version it worked out rather nicely. 

I used decals from the kit, but I also had hull marking decals from ST Modeler the pennants with the black lines on the lower hull is from them and the “eyebrows,” but that’s all, they lay on nice, but are very thin and tore easily, next time JT Graphics all the way. I used the registry markings for under the saucer from the PL 1/1000 as the ones that came with the kit went over the concentric circle I scribed and hit the navigational light. 

I will definitely do another one when my wife and I move into our new home then I can make a proper work area and get out the compressor. I really want to try to paint the grid like Thomas (Thomas Models) does, I luv that subtle overlay and all the pre-shading too, next time for sure. 

Even though this kit has its issues, with all the aftermarket stuff out there it can really be turned into something decent, plus the cost is very affordable and it will be great practice for the 1/350 that hopefully will be coming out. 



http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3658_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3659.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3664_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3668_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3598_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3600.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3604_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3605.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3613.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3646.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3641_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3626_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3624_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3632.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3633_edited.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/Nexus15/IMG_3604.jpg


Thanks for Looking.


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

very nice work!it looks good.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Congrats on a job very well done! 
Looking forward to seeing the next one and how much new knowledge goes into that build.


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

Wow! Beautiful!!!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Who'd a thunk it? Great build from a difficult kit!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks Guys!


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Great work indeed! Something to be proud of.:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

Excellent work! I really like the colors you chose for your build. :thumbsup:


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