# Controller guru needed



## oldraceral (Dec 1, 2005)

Anybody recognize the handiwork on this controller? I just got it off of ebay and have a few questions. Would like to know who made it and if they have a website for information.


















Thanks.


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## oddrods (Feb 6, 2007)

If I had to guess it looks like an early version of my "M Magic" controller built by Steve Medanic.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

nice wiperless unit

looks like it has brake/coast, sensitivty adjustment, and maybe coast


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## oldraceral (Dec 1, 2005)

Yeah, it's got the right adjustments for racing and I really like it, but...
The throttle resistor unit is getting a little rough and squeaky. I'm wondering if anyone has had to take one apart to clean it or do you just do a replacement? 
I suppose the resistor was never designed for the constant movement required for this application.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

mine is like 6 years old if not more and works like the day i got it.
there are some controller guys who pop on this BB now and then, hopefully they can help you.

the tigger pot is enclosed and should stay smooth. it may be the bearing on the other side of it


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## E-Force-1 (May 31, 2007)

How long ago did you get it. How about posting the auction number or link where you got it from? Maybe I know the seller.


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## SDMedanic (Apr 21, 2011)

Its not a M-Magic controller. From what I can tell from the wiring it appears to be a three wire controller like a Mullen, Theisen, Ruddock or Lucky Bob. To my knowledge Ruddock never used a trigger pot. Mullen and Theisen never used a printed circuit board. I am familiar with the Lucky Bob printed circuit board design and the controller is not a production version of that controller either. 

The in-line pot is a feature I have not seen on any of the above controllers which also makes me think custom or a one-off. It has at least one solid state fuse installed which indicates recent construction. However its impossible from the photo to tell if it is installed in the coast/brake, transistor control or transistor power circuit.

If its not fused you may want to add one. I would recommend a 5 Amp fast acting fuse. That will save most 20A rated transistors. I put the fuse in the black wire so that it will protect both the power and brake circuits. The throttle resistor unit is designed for constant movement. My M-Magic which uses a similar pot is six years old and its trigger pot shows no sign of wear. It cannot be taken apart. It can be replaced but I would not recommend it. What I have found is that 90% of the time a rough trigger is due to the spring hitting the inside of the controller housing. Look for that first. 

The good news is that like any electronic controller it can be modified or tweaked to fit your driving style and adapted for HO or 1/32 or 1/24th racing. With the right fusing and a bit of TLC it should last a very long time.


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## 00'HO (Nov 19, 2004)

*Parma Handle*

Parma handle, coast, brake, trim knobs, looks like a great job whoever built it. Looks like my "ruddick" I sold 15 years ago. Difference is yours looks like the resistor is at the pivit part of the trigger. Ruddick had/has? a wiper button sweeping a printed circuit board, plus well groomed cage to protect the electronics.
My Ruddick back then cost $275, I sold it and found the right Parma economy controllers for my race application... 15 ohm Parma 1/32 scale cars and poly mag HO cars, 60-90 for tuff handling Aurora T-Jet cars. 
Easier for me to pick 1 of 5 controllers $125.00 retail and not have to dink with the gadgetry, constantly adjusting for different cars. 

How much did you pay and are you happy with it?

http://www.daveshoraceway.net :thumbsup:


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## oldraceral (Dec 1, 2005)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220760571962&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Here's the auction where I got this controller. Pretty happy with it. It's just a bit different than my Difalcos. The trigger travel isn't as far and thats taking a little getting used to. It does have a nice circuit board, that's why I thought someone would recognize it. It's not just cobbled together. 
For our recent racing season I only used resistor controllers. Found that I was trying to tweak the controller more than tune the car and my driving, so I put the electronics away and just practiced more. I didn't do much better, but had more fun.


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## bearsox (Apr 22, 2006)

*Controller Guru needed*

Looking at this one i'm kinda reminded of the version that Moonstone / Dan Luna was hawking a few years back. Perhaps it was GoGo AKA Steve Godinez i don't recall for sure . Either way there has to be some info out there someplace on these from i would think Godinez atleast if you went to his site and emailed him. I think it's gohoracing.com ?

Bear :wave:


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

looks like a heck of deal


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## co_zee (Mar 28, 2005)

Doesn't look like it came out of Frankenstein's laboratory so it ain't one of mine!!! 

Muuuuuuuwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahaha!


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## SDMedanic (Apr 21, 2011)

The GoGo and Moonstone controllers used the Parma turbo frame as did the Mullen/Theisen. Trek, Ruddock, JayGee, Lucky Bob and I used fiberglass. I know most everyone's designs and it's nothing made by anyone mentioned so far. The heat sink is the same as the Mullen/Theisen The trigger pot is close to theirs but not exactly the same. 

I developed the M-Magic and modified just about every other electronic controller made. If there is something wrong with it or you just want it tweaked give me a call.

Regards,

Maddman


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## E-Force-1 (May 31, 2007)

oldraceral,
It is called a Bogosian Controller. It was made by David Bogosian of Flat Rock, MI. He is on Facebook. It looks like one of his later models. It has a short throw trigger and adjustment for polarity, sensativity, and brakes / coast. It is a right-handed version. I used to own one of his early models.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

if i remember, his did not need the brake attached???
is that correct


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## oldraceral (Dec 1, 2005)

I haven't been connecting the brake and it works fine. Most of the tracks we race on aren't wired for brake, so I'm glad it doesn't have to be connected. I'll check the Bogosian page. Thanks.


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