# coil setting



## 1930 (Apr 14, 2013)

Hi guys, I was given information either on this forum or another small engine forum that a good way to set the distance of the coil to flywheel was to simply place a business car between the two and tighten the screws. 

I may have been told this by one of the small engine repair shops that I have been dealing with, not sure where I heard this. 

It is good information and does work, I have just recently used this on an engine that I went thru but am wondering if that is universal for most small engines. 

Maybe that is just a quick way of doing it and should only be used as a base line? Maybe to properly set these things up a set of feeler gauges are necessary and the proper specs? 

If this is the case than where might someone get these specs without buying a service manual for every type of equipment they run across? 

If there is a more accurate way of setting this distance to make my own equipment run better than I would like to know what it is. 

I also have a neighbor that is having issues with his lawnmower, I am running out of equipment of my own to play with/learn from and am thinking of messing with his but would like to be better informed. Thanks


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

The business card thickness (.010-.012) will work for most all small engines.Each engine manufacturer will happily sell you a plastic or brass feeler gage to set the correct specs for their equipment.The smaller the gap,the more magnetism to generate spark.Setting the gap to close risks damage to the coil and/or flywheel.A gap to wide,low or no spark.

Glad to see you are gaining enough confidence to keep moving forward with acquired skills. :thumbsup: Here is a link to the most popular engine specs for future reference.Hope this helps.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/


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## 1930 (Apr 14, 2013)

Thanks, I could have used alot of that information on a Tecumseh engine I just recently had apart and put back together. 

Another mower my boss was taking to the scrap pile but I did save it and as of this A.M it is running like a new mower. 

I had completely taken it apart thinking it needed at least a new oil ring because it would hydro-lock when attempting to start with the oil filling the cylinder. 

Turned out that my boss and myself ( per his instruction ) were putting to much oil in it, that and a dirty filthy carb were the only issues. I honed out the cylinder and although I know I kinda did things backwards then did a compression check on it, 100 pounds. I knew that assuming it all went back together correctly I could make it run. 

I learned alot of lessons with this mower, first is that it has to have a blade installed for it to start easily if it has an aluminum flywheel.

I had a heck of a time getting it started after re-assembly and did not know this was my problem. It idled VERY poorly with no blade. 

I bought a blade, I also put a 6 dollar carb kit in it and that fixed all problems, I cleaned the deck and everything else and under all the filth was a shiny paint job with very little rust. 

I now have a practically new mower and am very happy with myself. Here is a picture of it, most people told me that it was not worth fooling with and alot of other people told me that because of the condition of the cylinder it would never run. Well that was not the case and I am glad I kept plugging along with it!!


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

You did a great job on the rebuild and kept it out of the scrap pile.:thumbsup:


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Be sure to put an air filter on it, or it won't stay out of the scrap pile very long!
:thumbsup:


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

I have had a couple of that same mower that owners were going to scrap. A little tlc and I made a few bucks!!


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## 1930 (Apr 14, 2013)

Air filter is on my list of things to get this weekend, thanks for the comments


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