# NSEA Protector Galaxy Quest



## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Hey Fellow Modelers,

This will be my first thread and build log that I have done on HobbyTalk. I have been lurking here quite a bit and decided to jump in the pool, so to speak, and learn from some of the Master's here!

I have always loved Star Trek:TOS growing up and used to run home after grade school to watch it in re-runs on local stations. When Galaxy Quest came out, I fell in love with the parody and immediately started saluting random people with the Galaxy Quest salute! When I got back into modeling a couple of years ago, I jumped at the chance to purchase and build the NSEA Protector!

In the middle of researching for build logs and threads of the Protector, I stumbled onto several websites, this one in particular and, specifically Tim Nolan's "Lighting ALL of the Galaxy Quest "Protector"; which, I am sad to note, was not finished to completion; at least in the build thread! I borrowed several ideas from his build and incorporated it into mine. I am by no means done with mine, but I would like to share where I started from to current status in an attempt to finish a lighted model.

I am not arrogant enough to presume I am the epitome of modeling excellence, but I would like to try and put out a resource for others who may want to build the model and want to avoid my mistakes!

Also, I do want to learn how to improve my building and I can best do that by input from excellent modelers just as frequent here!

Thanks!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

So, it looks like I need to be more active on the site before I can post pictures or links!

Maybe this one will count, as I only need one more!

Thanks!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Okay, so I started with the normal box shot. This one is a recent gain from Pegasus Hobby and it is very much the same as many others on the net.

NSEA Protector Box Art

Of course the first thing I did was do a dry assembly to see what I was facing.

20160918_145543

Then I started in with a pin vise to drill out the windows!


Primary Hull lighting External

The main concern, though, is not HOW TO GLUE it together so much as HOW TO HIDE THE WIRES in the body and wings. I am thinking I will have to create "channels" in the wings for some very small gauge wire (30 gauge AWG or smaller) to get power to the wings. I guess I will have to get a thickness gauge to help me make sure I don’t perforate the plastic while making the channels. Some of the lighted builds I have found tend not to show this aspect; and I can see why. Here is a pic I snapped this morning. There is only a very small opening in the wing, to the left of the picture, where some wire may go. I still haven't applied to many brain cells to it yet, but it will definitely be a challenge.

No room in the Bussard Collector

I'll try and keep these initial posts short - I love to write. 

Let me know what you think and any suggestions for improvement are always welcome!

More to come!

LLAP!

Steve


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Steve - have you ever used magnet wire? It's super thin and you can burn off the plastic coating with a solder to make your connections. I've used it in my 1:350 TOS E build and love it (can't take credit for it, though - Boyd's videos on his build are what turned me on to it. I got mine from Radio Shack).


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I totally agree with RossW that magnet wire is your friend here. It is like thread almost, it is so slim. Great for tight spaces like that. The channels you would have to cut (if you need any at all) would be miniscule.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*More holes drilled*

Ross and Fozzie, thanks for the posts! I did decide to use 30AWG magnet wire on a majority of the ship. That stuff is really nice for tight spaces! Unfortunately, I could only find the red color so I ended up using electrical tape to let me know the negative from the positive wires.

While looking for some reference builds/threads on the web for the Protector, I found precious little on lighted Protectors. And, as I have noted before, even fewer builds are understandably completed. This model does not easily lend itself to wiring or lighting. But, not knowing any better, I'm gonna try anyway! ;D 

Okay, on to the build. I think I have most of my lighting figured out. I am going to build this one on a 12V setup as I have a spare 12V power supply given to me. I think I have overestimated the resistors so no popping the LEDs. It wasn't until I arranged the LEDs on the breadboard that I noticed the colors where quite patriotic; ya know, for an American, Brit, or French! ;D

Breadboard light scheme

I also noticed from my DVD that there were two lights on the fantail, both port and starboard, that were white; presumably windows. I had planned for a single white LED to be put back there, but then I also noticed some red approach lights for the Surface Pods on the ventral surface of the fantail. So now I am toying with the idea of placing a small red LED back there as well attached to some fiber optics. Have settled yet but working on it. 

Aft Windows 
Aft Red Running Lights 

I thought I had all the planning complete, so I went forward with the light blocking. The instructions recommend starting with the primary hull before any other and, to my thinking, is the best for lighting, too.

White Light Blocking

I was thinking how I was going to physically, light the thing, especially without SMDs (haven't reached that stage in my building skills yet) and with the primary hull's curved surface. I decided on a platform sitting on top of the interior support for the mounting display. The model has an insert in the ventral primary hull (a separate section) which runs up into the dorsal primary hull through which I can, hopefully, run the wires and power. The platform will keep the dorsal hull's LEDs and wire out of the way until I can fully assemble them.

Primary Hull Lighting

I originally thought to only use two white LEDs for the dorsal primary hull's lighting, but the platform only lit the Aft portion of the windows; reference above where I thought I had this all planned out!  So I added a third LED to the anterior of the platform. I think I have the hull window lights sorted. Whaddayathink?

Primary Hull lighting External

Well, that's it for now
Thanks, as always for reading and commenting!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Pie Day (3.14)*

It’s Pie Day so I can post three times, right?! 

Here is the plan for wiring this beasty!

NSEA Protector Lighting A1

My initial plan was to make the Command Module (CM) removable, but, as you will see, I decided on a different tact.

I built and placed the red LED in the Aft of the Primary Hull. For the lack of names for these lights, I'm gonna call them approach lights for the Shuttlebay. I also placed a white LED for the AFT window lights. It doesn't look like I have light bleed between the two, but once I get the two halves ready to seal up, I was thinking of putting some Tulip paint between the red and white, ya know, just in case. 

20161208_084651

I did a test fit of the halves and I looks like I will have some external light blocking issues from the red. As you can see from the pic below, the LED is pretty far in the tail and can't help but produce all the bleed through. I am hoping that an exterior coat of black, then white again, will help cut that back a bit.

20161208_084711

20161210_194046 

As you can see, I decided to add some longer wires to the white lighting platform for ease of "wiring". The recessed section on the lower primary hull for the display stand, when assembled, goes up into the primary hull. I am thinking of following another poster’s design and use lamp guts and different display stand through which to funnel my wiring. I hope to bring the primary wires up through the base and connect everything to them. Adding longer wiring to the platform will allow me some play in soldering the pieces to the main. (Hope this makes sense.)

20161210_193842

I did get a blinky board from a fellow modeler (THANKS!!!) for the squadron lights and I got the 603 SMDs from HDA (Excellent Service and response!) for use on the Squadron Formation lights! I am also going to follow his lead and dupe the chillers (the little Red thingies on the front of the wings) and try and light them. I’ve picked up some molding putty and some clear casting resin so wish me luck!

Oh, I’m also going to try and dupe the Command Module in clear so see if I can avoid cutting each window in the CM. I will probably have to use the Oomoo stuff I got for my AMT White TOS E to do it, though!

As always, thanks for reading, commenting and offering build tips!

* Jason Nesmith:* ”Remember yesterday at the convention, those people dressed like aliens? They were aliens! They were termites or... or dalmations. I can't really remember cause I was kinda hungover.”

Steve


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Really nice work so far. Keep it up Master Sergeant.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

You're doing a good job! This is a ship I want to tackle one day myself.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Duping clear parts*

Good Day, Fellow Questerians!

Thanks, edge10! I am trying to do a good job on this build!

Fozzie, thanks to you, too! With your skills, I know you will do an awesome build on this ship; whenever you get a round tuit! 

I’m still posting catch up posts so bear with me. 

So, some progress and some tentative progress. I'll explain! ;D

I opened up the "windows” in the wings. I did the traditional "drill two holes, cut out the center with an exacto knife and file the rest" technique. I used a 3mm LED to see how the lighting would like and, due to a support near the front of the windows, I was glad I decided to use two LEDs to light this area.

STBD Wing lights

Decided to follow another builder’s lead and try and make the red bits on the wing. 

First time using the molding putty and it seems to have worked well. I used the acrylic sprinkle method for the chillers, too, as the acrylic mixture came out porous and unattractive.

20170115_072306 

I was gonna drill out the Command Module (CM) windows but before I got too far, I knew I wouldn't be happy with the result. So I went back to my plan to dupe the CM in clear resing. So I put wax in the windows I had started drilling out...

Wax on the Cm Windows 

And then used acrylic finger nail resin and monomer to dupe the CM in clear. I had tried to make a two part mold and pour duplication, but I didn’t have much success with it. I even tried to make a two part stone mold which didn’t work out either. I fell back on my dental lab training and used a sprinkle and wet method to make the CM. I would sprinkle a small portion of the acrylic in the putty mold and then wet it with the monomer and then repeat the process until the mold was completely covered and thick enough.

Here is a picture of the mold.



Here is a shot of the final casting, after finishing, with the original part.



I also did some gross finishing on the chillers (the little Red thingies on the front of the wings). Here they are with the original parts.



A quick dry fitting of the clear parts show they should work out well 



I still need to do a bit of fine finishing on them and fit them to the wings, but, for the most part, I am quite pleased with the turnout!

In other news, the fiber I ordered has arrived so I will be attempting to install the running and formation lights soon. Right now, I am thinking the blinker board will have to go in the base while the lights will go in the ventral primary hull with the FO running to the various points of the ship. Any tips and suggestions are welcome!

Thanks for stopping by!

Steve


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

This model is small enough so you can definitely use individual LEDs to light up the windows, but if you tackle a larger model with more windows you might want to consider LED tape. I like the HD (high density) stuff as there's an LED every inch - same as what's included in the PL light kit for the 1/350 TOS E, and it seems to light the insides very well. I don't know if you light blocked with white paint, but flat white (either airbrushed or spray painted) is the best for interior light blocking as it scatters the light around, helping to make all the windows light as evenly as you can.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*LED Tapes...humm...*



RossW said:


> This model is small enough so you can definitely use individual LEDs to light up the windows, but if you tackle a larger model with more windows you might want to consider LED tape. I like the HD (high density) stuff as there's an LED every inch - same as what's included in the PL light kit for the 1/350 TOS E, and it seems to light the insides very well. I don't know if you light blocked with white paint, but flat white (either airbrushed or spray painted) is the best for interior light blocking as it scatters the light around, helping to make all the windows light as evenly as you can.


Ross, I painted the inside with a flat black followed by a glossy white; both from what was on hand from a rattle can. I was thinking the glossy white would reflect the light rather than scatter it. Interesting point though; one I hadn't really thought through. Thanks!

I also see your point about the LED and the LED tape. I haven't used the tape before and, as I plan to do an Enterprise C once I am done with this one, may need a recommendation on where to get some economical, yet good, LED tapes. The C's saucer is nearly 8" across and the tape should light it well. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your input! I appreciate it!

Steve


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

You're doing a great job! Thanks for sharing!


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

Spectacular work, I'm looking forward to more pictures (hint, hint).


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Greetings Fellow Modelers!

Thanks for the encouragement, Dr. Brad!

Oh, I am no stranger to the camera or to taking pictures, Jodet! For my 1974 AMT TOS Enterprise build, I ended up with over 1400 pictures!  And thanks for your kind words!

I did do some light blocking on the ventral primary hull and the wings! At least this was forward progress!

Brake pads and light blocking

Kinda looks like brake pads! 

Light blocking Wings and Hull

While waiting on some parts, I decided to try and work on lighting the Engine Pods. Once again, I found out that this model has very little room for lights, resistors or wires! :-[

As you can see, I used 30AWG magnet wire across the Ventral primary hull. I am hoping that it will be able to handle carrying all the power I need for the wings without heat.

First use of 30AWG wire



Fozzie said:


> I totally agree with RossW that magnet wire is your friend here. It is like thread almost, it is so slim. Great for tight spaces like that. The channels you would have to cut (if you need any at all) would be miniscule.


Yep, you and Ross were right, Fozzie! In trying to fit the parts together to evaluate the space, I decided to ream out the supports for the wings. The model depends on friction between the, I don't know the exact term to call them, male and female parts on the wings and body. I decided to ream out the female receivers to allow me to quickly assemble and disassemble the parts as needed. Using a power drill and a bit slightly larger than the receiver, I set out to reduce the friction. But I did a newb mistake and ended up putting a hole in the hull! CURSES!

20170122_174850

A bit of putty and sanding will fix it but I hate it when I create more work than I save!

So leaving this, I made the lighting for the Port engine pod. After several attempts, I settled on this arrangement of the lights. Not my best work. Still working through if there is a better way to do things. Standby. 

Aft Engine First Light

Another issue reared it's ugly head, again! When I added the resistor in the wing, thinking there would be space for it, there wasn't space. SOOOOOOoooooo, I will have to put the resistor in the pod with the lights. Woohoo! Still, I had to take a picture of the lighted pod! It is gonna look SOOOOO COOOL!

Aft Engine Lights Dark

I figured I had discovered enough ways something didn't work and called it quits for the day.

Thanks for reading; if you made it this far! Writing these logs helps me think through obstacles so thanks for your indulgence! ANY suggestions, no matter how small, would be appreciated and comments, inputs and constructive criticisms are always welcome!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

By Grabthar's hammer what a build.

Really astounding work. I might as well just throw my copy of the model away.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

They REALLY do look like brake pads... :surprise:


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

This is a great build! All that dental acrylic monomer must have created quite the stink.

This may be too late for your build, but instead of magnet wire, you can use copper snail and slug barrier tape. The copper surface is conductive since it is... copper. You can solder it easily and it can be cut to any length or width.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Greetings Fellow Questerains!

Edge10 – Thanks for the kind words! No, it wasn’t my intention that anyone should build this or any model. I am not perfect and would enjoy seeing your interpretation of this great ship!



Fozzie said:


> They REALLY do look like brake pads... :surprise:


Fozzie – I know, right?!

Frank2056 – the monomer did stink! My wife complained bitterly! I haven’t heard of Copper snail barrier tape! I might have to try that!

Small update today. I decided to go back and use 30AWG magnet wire on the Protector as the 24AWG didn't allow the wing to close; not matter how I tried to run the wire. I ended up grinding away some of the sockets and mating pins on the wings in order to get them to close. Also, I had to modify the 3mm LEDs so they were smaller and could better fit in the limited available space.

20170124_183548

20170124_202053

Once I had gotten the wiring and lighting design for the Starboard Wing worked out, the Port wing install went much faster. But, as a result of grinding away so much, I could permanently install the lights as I now have to go back and light block again. I couldn't resist taking another pic of the wings in a small light test.

20170124_205959

OH! Today's modeling tip: If you are going to be soldering your LEDs in series, remember Kids, ALWAYS make sure you have a resister in the circuit before you apply power! I didn't and later realized I hadn't put one in. Thankfully and rather mysteriously, neither of the LEDs blew. Still, it is something to think about.

(I know some of you are saying "Now I know!" and are hearing Duke from G.I. Joe say "And knowing is half the battle!") ;D

Never Give Up!

Steve


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Oh. My God. 
It's real.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*First Fiber Optic light!*

Greetings Fellow Questarians!



SteveR said:


> Oh. My God.
> It's real.


SteveR – LOL! I would love to have see this scene played out with the ST:TOS crew, but vicarious is vicarious!

I am closing in to where I am currently on the model.
I know that fiber optic lighting is old hat to most of the builders here, but below is a picture of my first fiber optic light! TA DA!



This one was just a test, but the concept was tested and proven so... I have that going for me; which is nice.

I tested the Bussard Collector lights and saw that, even through the clear blue parts, I saw the LEDs. I decided I would rather have that diffused, so I cut some 0.010mm sheet polystyrene to place inside the Bussard Collectors between the lights and the clear parts. I haven't glued them in yet as I am still trying to decide the color of grey I will be using.



Since I was at it, I cut a few pieces for the Primary Hull windows as well. Since this technique worked so well on my TOS Romulan BoP, I used it here, too. It is kinda hard to tell, but the sheet styrene is beneath the quick clamps and batteries. I used the batteries to help conform the sheet styene to the hull shape until the glue dried.



Here is one of my clear castings with lightblocking in place. The concept for this worked very well, too. I will have to go back and re-mask the lights and repaint them the proper color. I am going to shape an LED to fit up next to the clear part and tack it in place. I am hoping that once it is all placed, I can use Tulip paint to cover the LED and the clear part as a light block without blocking the light to the LED. Sorry for the fuzzies; it was low light and the camera would not focus on the lights, just my thumb.



Since I decided to permanently attach the CM to the Primary Hull, I drilled some holes in the dorsal primary hull part (it sits directly beneath the CM on the model). Then I added a square of 0.010mm styrene over the two holes for light diffusion. I then CA'd them in place. Here is the final product.



I then hot glued the primary hull lighting in place; well, only part of it. The two platforms that span the seams between the STBD and Port halves will have to wait to be attached. Before I attach them, I will have to bend the single fiber optic strand from the rear of the Primary Hull to the large LED near the nose of the ship. But I put it in place to get an idea of where and if all the wires would be arranged.



Well, that is all for the moment!

Thanks for reading! As always, any tips, comments or suggestions for improvement will be greatly appreciated!

*NSEA Salute*

Steve


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

My wife saw the NSEA Protector in my stash and asked me to build it (at some point) so this build is of interest to me.

Two suggestions/comments:

1 - Don't use superglue to attach plastic fiber optics. People may tell you that it's just fine, but in time the rigid CA will stress the plastic fiber optic at the joint and it will break. Use epoxy or (if careful) hot glue).

2 - You can use white LEDs for most colored lights - just paint the ends (or an end) of the fiber with the appropriate clear color. It can make power supply selection and routing a lot easier.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Those poor people...*

Greetings, Fellow Questarians!

Thanks guys for the support and wonderful comments!



Frank2056 said:


> My wife saw the NSEA Protector in my stash and asked me to build it (at some point) so this build is of interest to me.


Well, excavate it and start in! The more the merrier!



Frank2056 said:


> 1 - Don't use superglue to attach plastic fiber optics. People may tell you that it's just fine, but in time the rigid CA will stress the plastic fiber optic at the joint and it will break. Use epoxy or (if careful) hot glue).


Good to know! So far, I have used hot glue and tulip paint to secure the fiber.



Frank2056 said:


> 2 - You can use white LEDs for most colored lights - just paint the ends (or an end) of the fiber with the appropriate clear color. It can make power supply selection and routing a lot easier.


I didn't think about this! I thought that I had to have a specific colored LED to light the fiber! Now I know! Thx!

I jumped back on the bench for a bit yesterday and it looks like I am about to clear a milestone. I changed the Fiber optic LED source from a 5mm to a 3mm and was able to form a FO stand using my soldering iron. I needed to make a near 90 degree angle and the heat from the soldering iron helped form it without breaking or fracturing the strand. I then put some tulip paint on it to help seal it in place.

20170305_175334

I know this seems like a dupe picture, but, for this one, I soldered all the positive leads together and the negative leads together to allow a single pair of wires for the power to exit the primary hull. The other pair is also connected but it will be for the power to the wings. I also have magnet wire coming out of the hull as it will be going directly to the flasher board I will put in the base. 

20170305_191649

And here is another light test. 

20170305_191418

Once the tulip paint fully sets, I will trim it down, add some to the other side and button up the primary hull. Seam work to follow.

As always, thanks for looking! Any comments or suggestions from improvement are always welcome!

*GWEN:* They're not all historical documents... I mean... surely you don't think Gilligan's Island 
is a...
*MATHESAR:*Those poor people...

Steve


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Frank2056 said:


> 2 - You can use white LEDs for most colored lights - just paint the ends (or an end) of the fiber with the appropriate clear color. It can make power supply selection and routing a lot easier.


This is the one major wake-up that will get me wiring up some models: _much_ easier resistor calcs!


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

The olf copy of CINEFEX said that there were other early drawings of the Protector that looked too much like the Enterprise.

Anybody know of these sketches?


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Placing the Dorsal Chillers*

Good day, Fellow Questerians!

This is a short and simple update. I have almost caught up to my current progress posts, so the future posts should be coming a slower now.



publiusr said:


> The olf copy of CINEFEX said that there were other early drawings of the Protector that looked too much like the Enterprise.
> 
> Anybody know of these sketches?


To be honest, publiusr, I hadn't heard, or seen, any other form factor for the NSEA Protector than the one that went on screen. That doesn't mean they don't exist - I just hadn't heard about them. BTW, the NTE-3120 branding on the ship stands for "Not The Enterprise"! 

I spent most of the weekend placing the lighting I had made in prep for closing up the pieces. One milestone was buttoning up the primary hull! It was only after I had let it set overnight that I realized I still needed to thread 6 pairs of magnet wire through the primary hull. Even with the 30AWG magnet wire, it was a tight fit!

20170308_173357 

I also seated the ventral chillers in the ventral primary hull! I was glad to see my idea of casting a clear part for the chiller, masking the three holes, light blocking the piece and them placing an LED behind it worked so well. I did have to remove a majority of the LED resin in order to get the LED to fit in the limited space. Since there aren't any other lights in this area, I don't think I will have to use tulip paint to contain the light. It's REALLY a tight fit in there and the tulip paint would only add bulk.

20170311_182733

Another "hurray, it worked!" moment was the dorsal chillers! I seated them, too. Since there's a tad more room in the wing and since the blue lights for the bussard collectors will be in close proximity to the light of the chillers, I used tulip paint to channel the light to appear only in the chillers.

20170311_223123

Since I had used (7) 3mm white lights in the Primary hull, I had to run down to the local Electronics Parts Outlet to pick up some more 3mm white LEDs. I am going to order some more from China soon, but didn't want to have to wait a month to seal up the wings! Oh, well!

That is it for now. I am finally feeling some momentum building to put all the pieces together soon. Cross your fingers!

Any comments or suggestions for improvement are always welcome!

LLAP!

Steve


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

What is "Tulip paint"? Is that a brand? What makes it special?


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Frank2056 said:


> What is "Tulip paint"? Is that a brand? What makes it special?


Frank, it is a fabric paint (puff paint) and Tulip is the brand name. The black is used to block out light bleeds or contain light to a specific area. You can use it to cover fiber runs, light boxes, whatever you need to light block. Think more scaple, precision than coating the entire inside of a model. It works well, is easy to apply, and cheap.

Here's a link to Amazon for it but I got mine at Walmart.

https://www.amazon.com/Tulip-Dimensional-Fabric-Paint-Slick/dp/B004BQ01CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473268113&sr=8-1&keywords=black+tulip+fabric+paint

I used it on the dorsal chillers shown in my last post.

Hope this helps!

LLAP!

Steve


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

Thanks! The Tulip paint sounds useful, not just for light blocking. You learn something new every day!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Greetings Fellow Questarians!

Just a quick update.

I was able to place the lights in most of the ship and was about to seal it up when I realized I hadn't done a light burn in! (I hate relearning things!) ;D So here are a couple of shots showing most of the lights, uh, lit!

20170317_172708

I ran it for nearly 18hrs with no hot resistors or popped LEDs so I think I am good to go!

I also spent a little more time trying to close the gap around the ventral chillers; having to grind way a lot of the hull thickness to get it closed.

20170317_190641

I ended up with some hot spots and light bleed but I am hoping a primer coat and top coats will cover them up. 

20170318_150738

Like I said, I quick update. With Spring in the air, my "Honey-do list" is piling up and the wife is starting to stare at me; and not in a good way! I will post when I can!

Never Give Up!

Steve


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I *need* to see this finished!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*But I don't know how to shut down a Neutron Reactor*

Greetings Modelers!

This is just a brief update. I have hit a bit of a stonewall on the build.

But first, I wanna say "Thanks for the all the support and encouragement!" Now that my kitchen cabinets are back on the wall (cheap contractor used pressed paper board to attach cabinets to the wall!) I can get back to the build bench. Although, the transition from Macro to Micro is daunting.

The bad thing with taking so long to build is that you tend to forget the next step; like doing a light burn-in or forgetting to build and install the fiber optic blinking lights. And that's the stone wall.

20170326_214027

Here is the situation. The LED for the fiber should be able to sit in the aft of the compartment. The LED itself and probably the fiber could, but the LED and the Resistor won't. I may be able to resolder the resistor to a short piece of magnet wire and stack it up on top of the LED (shown covered with heat shrink) but then the fiber will have to be formed so that it runs down the "channel" of the dorsal wing. Only the two longer fibers need to run to the engine pod. The short ones, well, one will, will run to the hole to the left and aft of the blond resistor. 

Man, I really miss my TOS Romulan BoP where I had all the room and spare for lighting. This stuff is making my brain hurt. (Of course, it wouldn't take much for that to happen!)

So, I have reached the point in the build where I have to power through and make it to the end. And your encouragements really help fuel the desire to get at it and muscle through!

Thanks again for reading and commenting!

*Gwen DeMarco:* Well, I hate to break it to you, Jason, but I don't know how to shut down a neutron reactor, and, unless you took a Learning Annex course I don't know about, I'm pretty sure you don't know how to shut down a neutron reactor, either.

*Jason Nesmith: * No, I don't. But I know some friends on Scifimodelaction.com who do.

Remember: Never Give Up! ;D

Steve


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

RetiredMSgt1701 said:


> Greetings Modelers!
> 
> Thanks, Chrisisall! I kinda have the same need! :smile2:
> 
> ...


Replace the bell wire in the area with a cables(2) made of 3 or 4 of the wires that make up the shielding. The wires are hair thin and easy to get. 2 of the cables should take up about the same space as half 1 bell wire.
Twist the wires together to make a small cable and seal with rubber cement /tool dip/liquid electrical tape.
Cutting the leads down on the Leds and Resistors is a good start, you might want to sand the end off the led to cut the length of it and the fiber joint. You could also drill the Led to form a cup (stop before you hit the die in the Led) then epoxy the fibers into the cup. Paint the led black to mask the light (you could paint the fibers as well). My only other suggestion is to check out surface mount leds which would be smaller.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*"Explain it to him as if he were a child"*

G'Day everybody!

swhite228, thanks for the tips! 



swhite228 said:


> Replace the bell wire in the area with a cables(2) made of 3 or 4 of the wires that make up the shielding. The wires are hair thin and easy to get. 2 of the cables should take up about the same space as half 1 bell wire.
> Twist the wires together to make a small cable and seal with rubber cement /tool dip/liquid electrical tape.
> Cutting the leads down on the Leds and Resistors is a good start, you might want to sand the end off the led to cut the length of it and the fiber joint. You could also drill the Led to form a cup (stop before you hit the die in the Led) then epoxy the fibers into the cup. Paint the led black to mask the light (you could paint the fibers as well). My only other suggestion is to check out surface mount leds which would be smaller.


I got the part about cutting down the LED leads and the drilling out the tops of the LEDs. I did that, but I am not sure what you mean about "bell wire" and "half bell wires." I'm a little slow on electronic stuff and I really want to understand. Could you explain it again?

Thanks again for reading and commenting!

LLAP!

Steve


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

RetiredMSgt1701 said:


> G'Day everybody!
> 
> swhite228, thanks for the tips!
> 
> ...


Bell wire/ magnet wire- small gauge wire bought on a roll usually covered with lacquer to keep it from shorting. Usually Red, Green or bare copper colored depending on what you buy. Used to make windings in electric motors or to wind around a metal center to make small electric magnets.
The "half" comment is about the thickness of the wire from a cable shield...if your wire has a size of 22 gauge then a strand made up of 3 to 4 of the shield wires should be half as thick or thinner.
The shield wire is thinner than a hair and is easy to hide on the outside of a model as long as it isn't used for a large installations (don't try and run power for the whole model through a strand). 

Fyi the magnets used to hold the command section to the main ship will conduct electricity and if I remember right there are 2 sets (front and back) so it would be possible to light it but also have it removable. That can be done by soldering a wire to a 4 small washers then placing them at the bottom of the magnets holes, epoxy the magnets by the side to the model so they contact the washer at the bottom of the hole, and touch the other magnet when the two halves are joined.
****DON'T SOLDER THE WIRE TO THE MAGNET!!!****
If you do the magnet will fail as heat kills rare earth magnets.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

swhite228 said:


> Bell wire/ magnet wire- small gauge wire bought on a roll usually covered with lacquer to keep it from shorting. Usually Red, Green or bare copper colored depending on what you buy. Used to make windings in electric motors or to wind around a metal center to make small electric magnets.
> The "half" comment is about the thickness of the wire from a cable shield...if your wire has a size of 22 gauge then a strand made up of 3 to 4 of the shield wires should be half as thick or thinner.
> The shield wire is thinner than a hair and is easy to hide on the outside of a model as long as it isn't used for a large installations (don't try and run power for the whole model through a strand).


Understood. I used magnet wire, 30AWG, to run the power to the wings and the lower primary hull. In the primary hull, I used 24AWG because I had more room and because it is my preference! :smile2:



swhite228 said:


> Fyi the magnets used to hold the command section to the main ship will conduct electricity and if I remember right there are 2 sets (front and back) so it would be possible to light it but also have it removable. That can be done by soldering a wire to a 4 small washers then placing them at the bottom of the magnets holes, epoxy the magnets by the side to the model so they contact the washer at the bottom of the hole, and touch the other magnet when the two halves are joined.
> ****DON'T SOLDER THE WIRE TO THE MAGNET!!!****
> If you do the magnet will fail as heat kills rare earth magnets.


Yeah, thanks for the advice about closing the circuit with the magnets! I wondered if it was possible and, thanks to you, I know it is. But I wimped out and decided to permanently attach the CM. I am trying out an idea with casting it in clear acrylic and masking out the windows, so I will let you know who that goes!

I was able to put in some time on the bench this weekend and, while it may not look like much, it involved a pretty good learning curve, so yeah. ;D

I expected the fiber optic to be more, I dunno, flexible than it is! Its almost like the stuff I put in my weedwacker to trim the lawn! I noticed the fiber bent toward the heat so I used my soldering iron to form the fiber. I held the tip near the fiber until it drooped in the direction I wanted it to go. Be gentle, this is my first fiber run.  I managed to run it to the engine pods and place it through the hole. I do need to secure the inside wire with something - Elmer's or something reflective?!

20170327_222631 

Once I had done the fiber run on both wings, I turned my attention to the windows on the wings. I didn't want to just leave them open, so I turned once again to adding some 0.010mm styrene strips to the interior but, as the wing closes to a feather edge, I had to grind away some the hull, and the light blocking, to make room for the styrene. But the theory works and here is a shot with it blue taped in place.

20170331_080959 

So I took off the strip styrene and, after masking out the rest of the wing, I reapplied the light blocking paint to the inside of the wing. While that dried, I used a small round bur to open up the lights on the ventral chillers. They looks a little uneven, so I ground away some the acrylic to even them out.

20170401_104100 

Then, my wings caught a case of the foils; its sorta like shingles but shinier. ;D Since I had some foil duct tape on hand and used it to mask out some light leaks where I had ground off the orientation pins. Then I placed the strip styrene over the windows. It seems to produce the desired effect, so, yeay!

20170401_153011

I am very close to putting this all together! I have to connect all the blinking fiber lights and test the board the Cameron built and sent to me. I'm gonna have to make a base soon just to support the ship so I can paint it after it is assembled, but one step at a time!

Thanks for reading and commenting! Any suggestions for improvement are always appreciated!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Felicitations, Fellow Questarians!

I realized I had not shown you the end result of the thin styrene and all the light blocking on the wing.

20170403_054649 

The wing will still close. I tapered the edge of the styrene to allow the outside seam to touch before I glued the styrene in. Either I am getting better at blocking things out or random chance seems to operate in my favor! ;D

So, I thought I was ready to put it together when I realized I hadn't put on the Ventral running light. Using one of the 603SMDs I got from HDA, I hot glued it down and then used CA to attach a short FO strand to the SMD and the other end out the hole. What isn't shown is that, after the glue was dry, I covered both ends with Tulip paint and tested it! It works!

20170406_182716

It's slowly starting to take it's shape. I was able to hook up the blinky board from Tankton (Cameron) and squealed like a little girl when my formation and running lights sprang to life! I have really got to learn how to build my own! (AWESOME!!)

At least the ship is stepping closer; it actually looks like the Protector!!

20170406_054401

I'm hoping to get more done this weekend. I'm still trying to suss out how to solder all the connections while placing the model pieces together in their predetermined order and glue them shut. I almost need four more hands, smaller ones than I've got, and more precision tools than what I have! BUT, NEVER GIVE UP!

I will master this beasty and you all will see me do it! (Says the guy who is half-way down its throat!)

*Jason Nesmith:* Okey dokey, Okey dokey. Lets fire blue particle cannons full, red particle cannons full, gannet magnets fire them left and right, and let 'em run all chutes. And while you're at it, why don't ya toss that at 'em killer

[tossing empty Coke can to gunner]

*Jason Nesmith:* That should take care of old lobster head shouldn't it?

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Good Monday morning to you, Fellow Questarians!!

I hope you had a productive weekend!

I made some significant gains on my build! Woohoo! I took a deep breath and seated the dorsal of the ventral primary hull. This allowed me to route the blinky board and the primary power wires through to the wings!

20170407_212921

Once that was done, I popped the hood (kinda looks like it, doesn't it?!) and soldered the lower section of the ventral primary hull to the main power and routed the blinky light's wires. This was a little more difficult due to the hair-thin wires from the SMD; I was very timid about touching, much less soldering, them as I didn't know how much abuse they could take before breaking. AAAaaaggaah! 

20170408_192607 

Anyway, I gently pushed the piece into place and, while I glued it down, I did a light test to see if I had broken a contact! Thankfully, I hadn't! It kind looks like "Attack of the Chompers!"

(*Gwen DeMarco:* "What is this thing? I mean, it serves no useful purpose for there to be a bunch of chompy, crushy things here!")

20170409_080045

Looks like the crew repelled the Chompers! I twisted up and soldered the blinky board wires to the two-pronged connector so I could thread it through the display rod!

20170409_143520

Since I was on a roll, I added the Port wing as well. It was kinda difficult to cut the wires down, solder them and then stuff them back in the Bussard collectors. I still need to solder the lower wing to the upper, but that will have to wait until the glue dries. I'm trying to leave them alone to let the glue set to it's final bonding strength!

20170409_164828

It's starting to take shape! Finally! But, now that I have placed one wing, the other shouldn't be too hard! Once I get the primary build done, I will have to mess with the fiddlybits and place them on the ship! The CM is presenting a bit of a nuisance as the masking fluid won't adhere to the acrylic long enough to allow me to cut or shape it into neat squares. Maybe I am using it wrong, so I will keep trying!

Thanks as always for looking and commenting! Please let me know what you think!

*Jason Nesmith:* 'Cause it's on the television show!

*Gwen DeMarco:* "No, I mean we shouldn't have to do this, it makes no logical sense, why is it here? This episode was badly written! Whoever wrote this episode should die!

Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Very impressive work. She will look wonderful when you're done!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Very impressive work. She will look wonderful when you're done!


+1 agreed!:grin2:


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Last Time on "The NSEA Protector Build Chronicles"...*

Thanks, Trekriffic and Chrisisall for the support and +1's!

It looks like it it's finally coming together (not fast enough in my opinion!  )

Last time on "The NSEA Protector build", I attached the Port wing to the Protector. After I soldered all the wires to the primary power conduit (I have always wanted to say that!), I did yet another light test! It is a tease of things to come and I am loving it! I also see a bunch of seam work in my future, but, hey, at least I am making progress. ;D

20170417_174942

Then I set about attaching the Dorsal Wing. I soldered the power wires and the Fiber Optic power wires to the wing formation lights. I have yet to hook up the lights in the ventral of the wing because I wanted to button it up first.

20170417_191505

Which I did. It still looks like an episode that could be titled "Attack of the Chompers!" I had a little trouble getting the seams to meet so we will see how much seam work I have on that wing once I remove the clamps.

20170420_192038 

All in all, this is finally moving on to the seam and paint stage. I admit I am a little gun shy about the CM. I have tried several times to apply masking fluid to the windows only to have the masking slide right off when I went to cut and shape the masking. Gonna try and wash it again to see if it is just separating fluid still on the acrylic. I think I will use my wife's artist masking fluid. If that doesn't work, I may paint it and then scratch the paint off the windows. Not my first choice but gotta do sumpthin! ;D

As always thanks for following along and for any and all comments!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

RetiredMSgt1701 said:


> ...It still looks like an episode that could be titled "Attack of the Chompers!"...


Let's get out of here before one of those things kills Guy!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Problem with the Protector*



Zombie_61 said:


> Let's get out of here before one of those things kills Guy!


Love the quote, Zombie_61!

I seem to be having a problem with the NSEA Protector! I have tried gluing the Port wings together and found that each time I released the clamps, it literally popped open at the seam. I did determine that a resistor was resting on a fiber run and that was preventing it from closing.

Once I moved that out of the way, it went together well enough but the glue I used (recommended by the model maker - Tamiya extra thin cement or Testors plastic cement (red tube)) has not done the job. I tried one more time to seal it up, but if it doesn't work, I will try the liquid epoxy from the hardware store.

Failing that, any other suggestions?

Steve


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

RetiredMSgt1701 said:


> ...I seem to be having a problem with the NSEA Protector! I have tried gluing the Port wings together and found that each time I released the clamps, it literally popped open at the seam. I did determine that a resistor was resting on a fiber run and that was preventing it from closing.
> 
> Once I moved that out of the way, it went together well enough but the glue I used (recommended by the model maker - Tamiya extra thin cement or Testors plastic cement (red tube)) has not done the job. I tried one more time to seal it up, but if it doesn't work, I will try the liquid epoxy from the hardware store...Failing that, any other suggestions?


Remember, this kit (like many produced by Pegasus Hobbies) is made from ABS and not the usual styrene used for injection molded kits. As such, it probably doesn't have a high enough percentage of styrene for the usual "model kit" glues to bond the parts properly, and you might have to use a solvent cement like Plastruct's Bondene that is specifically designed to bond ABS to ABS.


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Humbrol Liquid Poly works fine with ABS, too.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Thanks for the replies and tips! Do you think the glue cannot create a chemical bond due to the light blocking paint I used on the inside of the model? 

Would removing paint from the gluing surface help promote adhesion?

Thanks again,

Steve


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

RetiredMSgt1701 said:


> Would removing paint from the gluing surface help promote adhesion?


The Tamiya Extra thin works fine on ABS (Acetone will as well), but it needs direct ABS to ABS contact for the glue to weld the parts. I would scrape the paint from the mating surfaces.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Frank2056 said:


> The Tamiya Extra thin works fine on ABS (Acetone will as well), but it needs direct ABS to ABS contact for the glue to weld the pairts. I would scrape the paint from the mating surfaces.


Awesome!!

Will do and Thanks, Frank!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Hey Guys!

Well it turns out I didn't need the ABS glue. I scraped some interior paint off the plastic and tried again. Success! It finally stayed sealed. (Thanks again, Frank!) I think the pressure I was putting on the wing with the clamps was deforming it out of place so, when the clamps were released, the plastic sprang back in place beyond the elastic properties of the adhesive. At least, IMHO.

But Yeay! It's sealed! 

Just wanted to let you know I am still working on this and it is still glowing! Here I was trying to determine if I had enough light leakage to properly light the Command Module. It looks like I do. I thought I was going to have to cut some larger holes in the primary hull to allow more light in. Glad I'm wrong.

20170426_222301

Last night, I was able to squeeze in some time on the bench and was able to Solder the last contact wire into place! A milestone and PROGRESS!

20170503_210438

Now I can start the masking and painting and the assembly of the "greebly" parts of the ship. I have a mass of seam work, but I seem to enjoy it! (No pun intended! Well...maybe a little!)

Thanks for reading and keeping this alive!

Never Give Up!

Steve


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Looking really good! 

How in the world are you going to paint it? Seems like a masking nightmare.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Masking nightmare*



edge10 said:


> Looking really good!
> 
> How in the world are you going to paint it? Seems like a masking nightmare.


Edge10 - yep! You're right in that is will be a mess. I will be using a combination of painter's masking fluid and regular painter's tape. I used the painter's mask to great success (IMHO) when I built my TOS Romulan BoP. I filled in the windows on the primary hull of the BoP with painter's fluid and then I used the masking tape to mask and hand paint the Bird of Prey on the ventral surface of the primary hull.

I've also need to lay down a coat of primer, a base coat of white or light grey, and then mask and paint the dark grey markings.

So yeah it will be a chore to do, but I think it will be worth it for the final form.

I just hope I can do it justice!

Thanks for reading and commenting!

Never Surrender!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Hey Fellow builders!

I didn't realize that so much time had passed since the last real update. I have built a Gazebo and another fence around the other side of the house so my bench time has been limited a bit. At least this time I didn't wait until July to do all of it! 

There isn't much to tell except that I have been closing and filling and closing and filing and closing and filling seams. Ya know, the usual. 

20170515_155419

20170515_155524

I did go ahead and paint the Aft Field Restoration Matrixes and I think they look pretty cool!

20170516_185308

I also attached, what do you call them, the Linear accelerators on the Bow of the ship. I figured a little hand painting will bring them up to snuff. The majority of their color will be the hull color anyway!

20170516_193259

I put a coat of white on the upper decks of primary hull. Unfortunately, it was also a glossy white. I will get some flat white and try to get better coverage, although a majority of this piece will be grey in color, similar to the Bussard Collectors.

20170516_195242

I also did, or tried to do, some light blocking on the CM. Unfortunately, I grabbed the glossy black instead of the flat. I am having to rethink my approach to the windows on the CM. I have tried masking tape, masking fluids of various kinds and have not been successful in having the material stick to the acrylic with any confidence. Despite some excellent advice from some posters, nothing seems to want to stick to the acrylic except paint so I am gonna try painting and then scraping the paint off. 

20170516_195325

So last night, when I tried to scrape a window or two to test my theory, the glossy black did not stop any light. Nuts! So I recoated it with the flat black. We'll see tonight whether or not the flat does a better job or if I need to put on multiple coats. I assume the primer coat will also help block a lot of light, too.

I am gonna stop by the WalMart and pick up some Primer and more Flat white and black. The flat white will be the base color of the hull and then I will try to overlay a coat of pearlescent after I apply some aztecing. Of course all of that will be done after I use masking fluid to plug up the windows, vents, lights.....

Thanks as always for reading and commenting! Any suggestions from improvement are greatly appreciated!

Never Give Up!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Masking nightmare 2*

Hey, Fellow Questarians!

I hope you all had a good weekend and took a moment to remember those who died to keep us free!

I realized I still needed to place the Paragrafix Matter Restoration grills on the exhaust ports so I removed the dividers from the model. I had to trim down the raised area with an exacto knife and finally smooth it out with a fine stone and my dremel.

20170515_155656

Then I set the fin on the engine pods.

20170529_153244

And then masked them for painting.

20170529_221057

Speaking of masking, I used painter's masking fluid to mask out the windows and lights on the wings and dorsal primary hull.

20170529_125559
20170529_125546


Talk about tedious!!!

I also assembled, finally, the Bussard Collectors and seated them on to the model! I figured masking them out while they were assembled would be easier than trying to mask out the enclosure with tape, or paper or what have you and then trying to seat the collectors later. Time will tell whether I was right or not.

20170529_150649

And, of course, another light test to see how AWESOME it looks!! ;D

I also painted the CM and the upper decks with the base flat white. It is amazing how much dark colors hide imperfections and how light colors expose them. In looking at the CM and the quality of casting after I had sprayed it white, I noticed A LOT of bubbles and rough surfaces on the casting. So, I think I am going to strip it, sand it and then repaint. I want it to blend in with the rest of the model, not stick out. Besides, I left more than a few fingerprints on it during the painting of it.

20170529_161558

Plus, now that I know how I am going to achieve the look of the CM, the repainting should go much faster! 

I still had to had to dry fit it onto the body to see how it looked. Not bad; once it is painted!

20170529_161903

I am hoping to get more done this week; even so far as to get spot light blocking done, a layer of primer down, and a first coat of white. All this depends on the weather forecast. There is supposed to be rain later this week so we will see.

Till then, 

Never give up! Never Surrender!

Comments and critiques are welcome!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Painting! Lots of Painting!*

Fellow Questarians!

I was able to make some good head way this weekend!

Here is the rest of the ship all masked up and ready for painting!

20170602_174345

I showed my Son this with the caption of "ISS Dominator". He said I should post it and I thought another build thread with the ISS Dominator with Mirror Universe decals would be AWESOME!

20170602_174811[/url

But that is a conversation best left for another time! ;D

I have been thinking about the Concept for the Display. Initially, I was going to make a mockup mounting so I could finish and then order a base, but I found a spare base hanging around from my TOS Romulan build and was inspired. Here is what I have in mind.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/WqscHN]20170603_110729

Despite the rain in the area all weekend, I was able to get on a coat of Primer.

20170603_192604

I let the primer dry for 24 hours and even used a hair dryer to help speed up the process. Then I added a White Base Coat. This one is flat, but I think I will go with semi-gloss next round. I dunno. Whaddaythink?

20170604_090800

I was also able to strip and repaint CM.

20170604_092036

I placed the Upper Decks on the Protector. Since I had painted both, I scraped the paint off the primary hull to allow the glue to do it magic in the best environment.

20170604_150245

And here she is! All OOB parts are on!

20170604_171757

Here again, I showed my Son this pic and all he could focus on was the Legos instead of the fact that all the pieces where on! *Sigh*

Now begins the tedious job of masking out the rest of the ship for the accent colors, the aztecing and the penalized painting.

Thanks for reading! Sorry for the long post!

Any comments and suggestions for improvement are appreciated!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Greetings and Salutations, Fellow Questerians!

I had a pretty productive weekend, I hope your's was as well!

I did have a problem with the paint itself. The lightblocking flat black went on with no problem; as did the Primer. But when I went to apply the flat white, it went on like a powder and then, when it dried, it had the appearance of orange peel. 



The surface above the windows is where I have sanded the hull while the area around the windows is the texture that is all over the rest of the ship. I found out that this effect is called "Frocking" and it is a result of not mixing the rattle can paint well enough and from having a fan on the model while painting it. It could also result from the paint being too cold or the can being held too far away from the surface of the model which allows the paint to dry before it gets to the model. I did spend a majority of my Friday giving it a pretty good sanding with 400-600 grit fingernail files. Once I was happy with the surface of the ship, I prepped it for another coat.

Once I had placed the Upper Decks piece to the ship, I noticed my CM didn't marry up with the Upper Decks. So I took a fissure bur and cut away the CM until the decks met or at least looked good! 



I also had to cut a little more detail into the nose of the CM. All of this work cut through the light blocking and the primer, as you can see, so I had to do some Extreme Weathering! This is some more light blocking to cover up what the recontouring exposed!



Here are some pics of the repaint. I made sure the paint was mixed well and there wasn't any fan blowing on the model. As you can see, I think it went on really well.




Next up was a Paint Scheme Test. Using my scrape 1/1000 Polar Lights TOS E saucer, I painted it with the same white I used as the base coat for the Protector. I used the 1/1000 scale as I had downloaded the TMP E 1/1000 Pendragon decals from Starship Modelers website. Rather than waste a sheet of frisket on a test, I printed out a sheet, laid the sheet over some masking tape and laboriously cut out the mask.


The I loaded Pearlized White Spray from Createx Colors in my Airbrush and sprayed a light coat over the masks. Here is a better light.


Some things I learned. The decals are too big to get the scale I am shooting for. I want the "blocks" to be smaller to make the ship appear larger. I don't think I will try and duplicate the onscreen model used in the beauty shots, that is just too crazy! I am going to order some 1 and 2mm Tamiya masking tape and, hopefully, will be able to apply an aztecing scheme more in line with the expected scale.

Second thing I learned, or, about which I am thinking, is applying an overcoat of iridescent paint over all of it. The flat basecoat just looks, uhm, flat. Maybe the smaller blocks will cover more of the flat and show more of the pearlescence once it is applied and I wont need the iridescent overcoat. 

Dunno yet. Still cognating the possibilities! 

This is as far as I have gotten on the ship! More to come!

Thanks for commenting and following!

_*ALEXANDER: *_ (interrupting) This is ludicrous! Why are you listening to this man? Must I remind you that he is wearing a costume, not a uniform? He's no more equipped to lead us than THIS fellow. 
(motions to Guy) 
No offense.
;D

Steve


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## MartyS (Mar 11, 2014)

Looking good.

Nice to see someone else using a scrap 1:1000 TOS Enterprise as a test part for painting. I used one to test colors before building my 1:350, then used it to test finishes, then used it to learn airbrushing, it looks pretty strange now...


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*NSEA Display*

Greetings, Fellow Questarians!



MartyS said:


> Looking good.
> 
> Nice to see someone else using a scrap 1:1000 TOS Enterprise as a test part for painting. I used one to test colors before building my 1:350, then used it to test finishes, then used it to learn airbrushing, it looks pretty strange now...


MartyS, yeah, I used this same one to test everything on before I tried it on my first AMT TOS E build! I've even stripped it an now have repainted it! Whew!


OK, I ordered some Tamiya 1-2mm masking tape and it is projected to arrive the 19th. I also ordered some 1/16th of an inch (~1.5mm) masking tape, too, and I am hoping it will look good. Now I just have to come up with a pattern of some sort. On the movie, it didn't look like they followed a pattern; it actually appeared randomized. 





Any suggestions anyone?

So, while waiting on the masking tape, I spent a lot of the weekend working on the display, most of it on the OOB display.

Since I will be using a different method of mounting on the display, I made a mold of the star and border of the stand.



I decided to paint some acrylic in for the border and ended up only using the star. I cut away a section where there was star tips and tried to place the duped star in the same place. It didn't countersink as well as I had hoped, but, the dark paint may help hide that a bit.



Put on a primer and the base coat of 0007 Wicked Blue by Createx Colors. I love this stuff! It is made to pour straight into an airbrush and use; no diluting!



Then I photocopied the base and laid the copy over some masking tape and cut out a mask. A lot of masking for the silver and it took a good portion of the morning to get this much.



After the silver set for about 18 hours and the masking taken off. I know it needs touchups.



A tease for the final display. Still gotta clean it up!



I am pretty pleased with how it turned out. I still have to clean it up and then seal it with clear gloss. But it is still a work in progress!

Never give up!

Steve


----------



## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

Impressive amount of work, and the modified base looks fantastic! The primer/white paint on the ship looks good - have you checked for light leaks?


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Nice job on that base. Will have to remember that photocopy to make a mask trick!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Paint masks are a bear!*



Frank2056 said:


> Impressive amount of work, and the modified base looks fantastic! The primer/white paint on the ship looks good - have you checked for light leaks?


Yes and quite frequently! I had a few hot spots, but I think the primer and the top coat covered them well. Don't know if it got them all, though. :/

Thanks, Fozzie! The photocopy was a "What would happen if..." moment! 

Speaking of paint masks, right about now I am really wishing for a complete set of NSEA Protector painting masks! 

I have started designing and cutting my own masks. I sat down for a little bit and did some screen captures of my DVD copy of Galaxy Quest and tried to capture some clean images of various parts of the ship to see if there is a pattern to the aztecing. To tell the truth, the studio model builders kinda (kinda?) went overboard on the aztecing in the extreme! 

So I started doing major chunks of sections. I might go in later and add more detail. 

One interesting note about the model and the production model, the gridlines that are on the Pegasus Hobbies model are NOT on the production model! The aztecing on the production model flashed in the light and made it appear to have the grid lines, but they weren't there! (I'm not trying to start a debate about being there being or not being gridlines on the ship similar to the long running debate for the TOS Production model saucer section! I am just making some observations!)

So, I decided to try and make the masking follow the gridlines to highlight them with the pearlescent paint. But this level of detail is daunting at best and extremely, frustratingly tedious at worst. But I seem to be settling into a system, for now, and hope to have at least the belly of the Protector covered by the end of the week. Well see.



I would like your feedback as to what you think about the aztecing. Remember these are handcut so, unless someone as a machine that can make me a set of paint masks, be kind! 



If ever there was a time I would crave and gratefully appreciate your feedback and comments, NOW would be it! Whaddayathink? Remember, (I have to tell myself this all the time!) the exposed white areas now are going to be the pearlized portions later.

Do they look too big for the ship? Should there be more or less detail?

Lemme know what you think!

As always, your comments and feedback are appreciated!

Thanks for reading!



> Guy Fleegman: Jason, are we doing episode 81 or not?
> Jason Nesmith: It's a rough plan, Guy, what does it matter if we're doing episode 81 or not?
> Guy Fleegman: BECAUSE I DIED... IN EPISODE 81!
> Tommy Webber: EPISODE 51! EPISODE 51!


Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Whaddayathing masks or decals?*

I'm at the less glamorous portion of the build where I am designing, making and applying the paint masks. Some are lifted directly from screen grabs of the movie, others are from decals, not masks, I was able to get free online.

20170621_203831

Here is a shot of dorsal of the STBD wing for a test run. If you are thinking "Man, that's gonna be a lot of work! I wouldn't want to to that!", I am thinking the same thing!! :grin2: Any suggestions for a easier way?

Do any of ya'll have a mask printer/cutter that would be willing to make the masks once I have the pattern? Lemme know.

If I made the decals from this pattern and applied them after I painted the hull pearlescent, would the pearlescent show through the decals? I'm thinking "no", but wanted to ask.

Thanks for the input and for your future guidance! Ya'll are awesome!

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

A lot of dedication to the process. Do what makes you happiest is always my motto. :cheers2:


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

Masking is never fun. Trekkriffic's Leif Ericson build here on Hobbytalk is excellent reading. He also dis a lot of masking on his model and the aztecking came out nice. It may be worth looking over that thread for ideas/inspiration.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Negative Spaces*

Greeting, Commanders!

I hope you had a productive weekend!



Frank2056 said:


> Masking is never fun. Trekkriffic's Leif Ericson build here on Hobbytalk is excellent reading. He also dis a lot of masking on his model and the aztecking came out nice. It may be worth looking over that thread for ideas/inspiration.


Thanks, Frank! I take a look! Trekriffic’s builds are always inspirational to me!

I am continuing the mind draining exercise of designing, cutting and applying the masks to the Protector! It's really straining my pea brain to remember what should be flat white and what should be the pearlescent white. I have to remember to look at the negative spaces to visualize the end result.

I finished up the Ventral SRBD Wing, inboard section. Here is a shot of it

20170620_200200 
by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I know it looks piecemeal, but I think it will look decent when finished. Don't know if I've said it before, but after staring at several screenshots of this section from the movie, this was the closest approximation I could get to the wing design. I'm happy with it.

Someone suggested I make templates out of acetate sheets to help with the painting. I used the TMP E 1/1000 Pendragon decals as a pattern and cut out the Wing template. 

20170622_190437 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I then did a Test on the Saucer and it looks pretty good. 

20170623_195640 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

So I cut out the opposing, offset template to lend some difference to the pattern. Here are both templates.

20170623_220017 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I spent a majority of the weekend on the Dorsal SRBD Wing and the Bussard Collector housing. The Housing pattern came from a screen shot which clearly showed the pattern. I tried to duplicate it here. It is really difficult to get the negative spaces straight with painters tape, or any tape for that matter. The inboard section I made more templates for the spaces and cut the lightening pattern into the tape. I am having to adopt the "less is more" philosophy as the tape starts to tear if I cut it any thinner.

20170625_201830 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

Well, that's it for the weekend and perhaps for the time being. I think the PORT wing will go much faster now that I have settled on a design. Whew!

Thanks, as always for reading, following and commenting!

Happy Modeling!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Progress on the Masking*

Just a quick update!

I did manage to finish up the Dorsal Bussard collector housing. Again, the white spaces will be the pearlized paint and the actual production model has a crazy random-ness to the pattern - I've tried to duplicate some of that here.

20170708_122755 
by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I also finished up the dorsal STBD wing. I had to use dental picks to pickup and place the masking tape to even get it close to being in position.

20170708_122810
by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I started the STBD Matter Restoration and Engine Exhaust pods, but remembered, after the photo was taken, that I want those particular patterns to be the pearlized white rather than the white; so they are coming off.

20170708_122812 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I will persevere and get this thing done and it WILL be wonderful! (At least that's what I tell myself to keep going!  )

Till next time!

LLAP!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*You know, with the makeup I actually thought he was smart for a second!*

Greetings Questarians!

Another quick update - the Spousal Unit is home and she has a "honey-do" list that steals my building time!  ;D

I was able to finish the Bussard Collector housing and the ventral of the Ventral of the Port Engine Pod.

20170715_112240

20170715_131633

The Housing masking kinda looks like a car door with the window rolled down. This only reinforces the idea, IMHO, that the original model makers just really didn't have a pattern to follow so they threw on random shapes and masks! ;D

It does seem to make it easier to make your own patterns, though. I have spent alot of time with my new Blu-ray copy of *Galaxy Quest* looking at the major sections of the hull for the more recognizable pattern. (BTW, the spousal unit it SOOOO tired of seeing *Galaxy Quest* !!) : : ;D

Anywhoo! Thanks as always for your encouragements and for following the thread!


*ALEXANDER:* This way... Wait, (Alexander turns the scanner right-side up) no, that way...

(They turn in the opposite direction.)

*TOMMY:* You were holding it upside down weren't you?

*ALEXANDER:* (Annoyed and Embarassed) Shut. up.

*TOMMY:* You know, with the makeup and everything; I actually thought he was smart for a second.


Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*New Drydock!*

Greetings and Felicitations, Fellow Questarians!

I am still editing this thread and migrated all the images I could find to my new Flickr account. I hope they, at least, will continue to host images for free. If not, there is always Imgur!

If you have been following this thread; first, bless you for dropping by, reading and commenting on my humble, maddening build, second, you will remember I had purchased some Legos on which to prop the Protector. I had no pad with which to keep my supports stable, so I took my beautiful SO to the store for a green Lego pad. She even threw in another box of 484 classic piece set! I feel so creative! So, giddy with the endless possibilities! I feel like I should calm down and act more like my advanced age and level of maturity requires me to act. 

Nah!



So here is a better building drydock, for the lack of a better term, than I have had! I kinda like it!

20170719_220945 

Right, so now that I have decided on the masking design, it is going much more quickly! (Is there an echo in this forum?!) I was able to get the ventral of the Port wing masked out. 

20170722_125242 

And made some excellent headway on the Dorsal of the Port wing!

20170723_205554 

I did some more study of the screengrabs I made of the movie and was able to come up with this design for the ventral of the primary hull.

20170723_173202 

I know, I am a glutton for punishment and have already been fitted for a straightjacket! By now, the people at Arkham know me on a first name basis and have my room reserved for me!

I figured, with the way some of you fix up your TMP E, which scares me to death to even think of beginning, I could spend some time on this beauty and do my best for it!

Thanks as always for following along! Any comments or suggestions for improvement are appreciated!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)




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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

Milton Fox Racing said:


>


I "Cheated", and got the Mobius Pre-Assembled & Detailed version..

Bubba (The Senile) 123 :willy_nilly:

added 8/9/17;
I'm Really surprised at the amount of interest in "Galaxy-Quest"..
I Liked the Movie, but almost Passed on the model....
Is it because of a "Cult-Following" this far (years) after it came out??

Trying to find the pics of it in My "Cave".. 
After the "Photobucket-Incident"...
Looks like I'll have to just re-shoot that area again.. NBD ;-)

OH! Mr. Larson, was making the ship's "Shuttle-Ship"..
That's probably "Why" I got the model.. 
Will get a "Shot" of That as well.. Simple Level-1 build...
But no "Landing-Pods" ...
(Been meaning to look-up pics of it & "Tooth-Picks with Feet"(Washers) ought to do the trick...


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Very impressed with your build so far! I'm a true Galaxy Quest fan as well! Sadly, my build was completely destroyed, but I hope to start another one in the future. I do still have my blaster and communicator I built, and I have a large autographed photo of the crew signed by Tim Allen! Keep up the good work! I'll be following your thread to see your success!!!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Everything is Awesome!*

Good day, Questarians!



Milton Fox Racing said:


>


I really enjoyed that movie, Milton! I smile everytime I think of the ThemeSong “Everything is Awesome!”



Bubba 123 said:


> I "Cheated", and got the Mobius Pre-Assembled & Detailed version.


I have to admit that at times, that option seemed very tempting! Got any pics of it? 




Tim Nolan said:


> Very impressed with your build so far! I'm a true Galaxy Quest fan as well! Sadly, my build was completely destroyed, but I hope to start another one in the future. I do still have my blaster and communicator I built, and I have a large autographed photo of the crew signed by Tim Allen! Keep up the good work! I'll be following your thread to see your success!!!


Wow, Tim! That is OUTSTANDING! I’m not sure if Tim Allen has been to a Comicon in a while or else I would have tried to get his signature! On a side note: I am friends with the family of Missi Pyle! I haven’t worked up the spunk to ask for an autograph much less a meeting! (I’d probably squeal like an excited puppy if I ever did meet her!  ) Thanks for following along!

I hope your weekend was both enjoyable and productive!

Because the heat index in Houston this weekend was topping out at 109 degrees F, I stayed inside and worked on the Protector. Well, that's not entirely accurate. I got up at OMGITSDARK-thirty and mowed the quarter acre I call my lawn before it reached 90 degrees F. THEN I went inside and worked on the model.

I am finally getting around to the part of the ship, at least on the Starboard side, where the Aztecing is not so detailed. I figure even the original production model modelers got tired of painting them and realized they had to go into production sometime! 

I was able to get both the Ventral and Starboard side Aft done. While it is only two pictures, you are still looking at a couple of days of my own brand of crazy. I think the next model will be something easy like, I dunno, the Enterprise C or the 350 TOS Enterprise!!

Ventral quarter
20170730_211109 

Starboard side Aft
20170730_211513 

Just a quick update. After all this work, I'm really starting to pray it looks as good as I hope!

Stay tuned for more! We'll be right back after a message from our sponsors! 

Thanks for following and commenting!

*JASON:* You want to go home? Fine. Say the word, and we'll all go home and feed the fish and pay the bills and fall asleep with the TV on and miss out on THIS. Is that really what you want? Anybody?

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Greetings Modelers,

I hope you had a safe and productive weekend! I avoided heat exhaustion by avoiding doing ANYTHING outside and using Sunscreen SFP3000!! I thought about going outside to mow the lawn at 0800 Saturday. Looked at the temp 89 degrees F. Tolerable I thought. Then looking at the humidity looming at 95% for a real feel of 103 degrees F, I decided to work on the model! 

I know this part of the build isn't very exciting or spectacular, but, like tiling a floor, it becomes addicting and cathartic at the same time! Weird. But, then, it IS ME! ;D 

This represents nearly 12 to 16 hours of work this weekend. Measuring, cutting, placing, recutting, fixing, stretching and more "ings" ad infinitum, ad nauseum, so I thought I'd post a couple of pics to let you know I am still working on it, still alive, and still making progress; albeit slowly.

So I got the nose mostly done. I have a few lines I need to pretty up before I paint the bottom of the nose is now covered.

20170804_203620 

The sides are done and fixed, with minor (minor not miner ;D) exceptions.

20170804_210313 

Now that I have most of the masking on, I begin to think, how am I going to get it all off? But that part will probably go much faster than putting it on!

Till next time on Galaxy Quest!

Steve


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

RetiredMSgt1701 said:


> Good day, Questarians!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, but with the Photo-Bucket issue, I'm not sure "How" to post them on Here (also Tech. - Impaired :|)

Bubba (The Senile) 123 :willy_nilly:


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Another Image-pail casualty*



Bubba 123 said:


> Yes, but with the Photo-Bucket issue, I'm not sure "How" to post them on Here (also Tech. - Impaired :|)
> 
> Bubba (The Senile) 123 :willy_nilly:


If you have a your own copy of the pics, say, on your own PC or HDD, you could upload them to another photo hosting site (i.e. Flickr or Imgur) and paste a link here.

Flickr offers 1TB of free storage space and I can't find a limit on Imgur. Just a couple of thoughts, Bubba. I use Flickr now as a primary and Imgur as backup, but I keep copies of all my pics in multiple locations (i.e. external Harddrive, SD card on my phone, Personal laptop, etc.) IT weirdness coming through. 

Hope this helps!

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/361-h...oading-directly-hobbytalk-how-tos-issues.html

The general steps to take are in post #4 of the above.

The key is to have an image that is smaller than 500kb.

If you have problems still post a question or help request in that thread and we will respond faster to your request.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Thanks!*



Milton Fox Racing said:


> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/361-h...oading-directly-hobbytalk-how-tos-issues.html
> 
> The general steps to take are in post #4 of the above.
> 
> ...


MiltonFox Racing (Super Mod), thanks for the post and link to the discussion and work around.

Steve


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

Bubba 123 said:


> I "Cheated", and got the Mobius Pre-Assembled & Detailed version..
> 
> Bubba (The Senile) 123 :willy_nilly:
> 
> ...


Bubba (The Senile) 123 :willy_nilly:


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Galaxy Quest Forever!*



Bubba 123 said:


> Bubba (The Senile) 123 :willy_nilly:
> 
> I'm Really surprised at the amount of interest in "Galaxy-Quest"..
> I Liked the Movie, but almost Passed on the model....
> Is it because of a "Cult-Following" this far (years) after it came out??


Although I don’t remember when I wasn’t a fan of Galaxy Quest since it came out, I am not sure I am a good source to speak to your surprise; but I will try. I will grant that there is a cult following for this movie; maybe bigger than we think but definitely loyal.

The kit is issued by Pegasus Models as a kit and as a fully assembled model; as you know. I chose the kit cause, ya know, I'm into modeling! I have chronicled my difficulties with the kit but it is still a good kit to buy and make. Pegasus also issued the ION Nebulizer Pistol and VOX Communicator Set as well. I don’t think anyone is interested in the “surface mapper” as I haven’t seen a kit for it. 

Besides, JPG Productions has issued a 1/72 Galaxy Quest Surface Pod diorama kit, too. So there must be some interest in the show and demand for the kits. Also, I have seen several photos online of cosplayers in full costume from the movie! Also, Galaxy Quest was voted squarely in the middle of a list of all Star Trek movies! 

There has been some push to make a sequel of Galaxy Quest on Amazon. But with the untimely loss of Alan Rickman, Daryl Mitchell’s unfortunate accident and with Enrico Colantoni’s (Mathesar) reluctance to make a second movie, it doesn’t seem likely to happen. Also Galaxy Quest adventures continue – in Universe – in comic form via IDW Publishing. Culturally, it’s still here!

I just like it because it falls well within the umbrella of Star Trek and am okay with that!



I know you didn’t really ask all that, but, eh, why not?! 

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

agreed on All-Accounts Steve...
I never had much co-ordination, as a kid... 
so Any/All "Attempts" @ My Modeling skills were terrible @ best...

about... 15+ yrs. ago.. I was diagnosed w/ an "Alzheimer's-Like" Nero-Disorder..
my hands shook so bad, anyone around me, got "Free-Samples" of my meals...

the DR. who Diagnosed me, put me on a medication...
that made it possible, to have EXTREEMLY-Fine-Motor-Skills... a 100% turn-around ;-)
I was making extremely-detailed custom HO Slot-Cars. and selling them on EBay w/ somewhat of a "following".

Sci-Fi Space ships/transporter models, were another of my major interests...
I found, that I could now "DO" extreme-detailing/painting & assembling.....

unfortunately, as with all "Miracle-Meds", this new "Skill" started to "Wane"....
Doc. increased the dosage over the years.. But eventually... :-/

"Now" if I want a Nicely-Done Model.. I HAVE to get a "Pre-Built" or have a Modeler do a "Commissioned" job...
(I still can do slot cars, but prefer the 1:43 & 1:32 scales.. still some HO's, but can't do "Production-Runs" anymore.. Now, they are "OOAK"s ;-)

NO Complaints.. still have meds that "help-out", and arthritis is catching-up to me as well... (Got "Pills" fer Dat' stuff ;-) )
never tried to sell any models, and kept @ least 1 of every version of Custom Slot-Cars I did (Movie/TV/Sci-Fi was my Genre' )..

Bubba ;-)


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Hey everybody!

Apologies for taking so long between posts. I was kinda hunkered down for an epic storm. You may have read sumpthin sumpthin about it. Harvey?! ;D

I and mine are fine and we did not sustain any damage - other than frayed nerves. Others within a couple of miles were flooded out and one neighborhood also dealt with a Tornado. Many others have been displaced and are in need of assistance. But we are okay.

This weekend I was able to finalized the masking (at least for Phase 1 of the painting). The Port vental of the engine pod was the last. Here is a shot.

20170902_163400


I used my airbrush and used Pearlized White from Cereatex to spray on a couple of coats. I wanted it to be understated in the final appearance, but took the following pictures with sunlight and reflection to show the paint.
20170904_084223 

This was my first reveal of all the hard work I had put in on the masking since mid June!! As I started to peel off the bigger section, I got more excited and started to tell the Spousal Unit "This is gonna be AWESOME!" 
20170904_092619 

I started with Port Side Panel and the bigger sections as I figured if is looked bad, those sections would be easier to cover up again and repaint.
20170904_093102 

Here is the Port Detail on the ventral wing. I did not have time yesterday to peel the rest of it off as I had to go see the kids. But more reveal is on the way!
20170904_095135 

I think I will let this cure for a while before I attempt Phase 2 masking. I still have some clean up and spot painting to do.

I think I should put a coat or two of future on the paint to protect and seal the ship so far. I do have to paint the grey and dark grey areas, too.

What do you all think? Seal with future or no?

Lemme know what you think and, as always, thanks for any comments and tips for improvement! And thanks for reading.

Never give up! No matter how long it takes to mask it out!

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Glad to hear you survived the 'thunderstorm'. :cheers2:

Liking the paint job and build. :thumbsup:


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Who remembers the early "R" version of galaxy Quest? Pretty funny fowl language.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Y3a said:


> Who remembers the early "R" version of galaxy Quest? Pretty funny fowl language.


Was that ever released or were just snippets and quotes from it?

I think you can tell some mismatched lips with dialog in a couple of scenes on the DVD release where some audio editing took place...


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*R-rated version?*



Richard Baker said:


> Was that ever released or were just snippets and quotes from it?
> 
> I think you can tell some mismatched lips with dialog in a couple of scenes on the DVD release where some audio editing took place...


I don't remember seeing this movie in theaters during the initial release but, and I am dating myself here, I saw it originally on the VHS, DVD and, now, Blu-ray. I think the movie was filmed but was edited for release to avoid a PG-13 rating. The original lines are still obvious when reading their lips. :grin2:

Don't know for sure though!

Thanks for commenting!

Steve


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

I like the different specularity of the paints very much, so I wouldn't use future.


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## FlyingBrickyard (Dec 21, 2011)

Y3a said:


> Who remembers the early "R" version of galaxy Quest? Pretty funny fowl language.


Odd, I don't remember any clucking. :wink2:


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*What else is there?*



electric indigo said:


> I like the different specularity of the paints very much, so I wouldn't use future.


If not future, do you have any recommendations of sealants I can use and still maintain the specularity of the paints? I've worked so hard to get it, I wouldn't want to lose it.

Thanks!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Thermigarian Language track!*



FlyingBrickyard said:


> Odd, I don't remember any clucking. :wink2:



Unless you consider the Thermian language audio track that is an option on the DVD and Blu-ray?! It could be close to clucking.


But it would be fairly odious for a fowl to use foul language! :wink2:

:grin2:

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

electric indigo said:


> I like the different specularity of the paints very much, so I wouldn't use future.


Interesting.

Is the specularity loss from an inner reflectivity of the future finish or does it come from opacity? :lurk5:


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

It's just that right now you have the flat white base color contrasting with the pearly sections that go from bright to darker reflections, as in this picture:










A coat of glossy future or any other medium will result in a homogenous surface specularity. The pearl effect would still work.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Protector Wing Aztecing*

Good Day, Fellow Questarians!

I hope you had a safe a productive weekend!



electric indigo said:


> It's just that right now you have the flat white base color contrasting with the pearly sections that go from bright to darker reflections, as in this picture:
> 
> A coat of glossy future or any other medium will result in a homogenous surface specularity. The pearl effect would still work.


Ah! I understand what you mean, now. Thanks for pointing that out, electric indigo. But I wanted to make sure the pearlized paint (acrylic) would stay on the base white (enamel) paint so, I took the advice to go ahead and seal the pearlized paint with Future and let it sit for 72 hours or so. Here are a couple of shots. 

20170915_141054

20170915_141027

I know some liked the contrast of the flat white against the pearlized paint, but the on screen shots seems to have a sheen over the whole ship. So, I am going with that look. Plus, it keeps my grubby paw prints from getting onto the paint.

I used some the templates I had previously made to paint the dorsal portion of the port wing. For the most part it worked well! The ventral is still problematic. I have to cut another wedge shaped template as a whole section template would not fit well enough. As it is, I will still have some touch ups to do with the flat white. There may even be more mask cutting in my future. :-\

20170917_150417

Once I get the wings done, I will start on the dorsal of the Primary hull, but I still have to cut a template for that, too!

As always, thanks for looking in and following along! Any and all comments are appreciated! ;D 

Never Give Up!

Steve


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Looking very nice. Back to lurking.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Looks like a beautiful finish you have on there!


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

This is looking great! Look forward to seeing the final product!


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## roadskarekustoms (Oct 4, 2017)

Never give up.....NEVER surrender!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Thanks for the kind words and encouragements! 

RL has had me pretty busy of late but I hope to make some progress this week!

Thanks again for watching and commenting! Both are appreciated.

LLAP!

Steve


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Hey Everybody!

RL caught up with me as my family expanded by 1 last week. Mrs. MSgt is still there taking care of the little tyke so I can spend more time in the garage painting. 

Okay, did some more work last night and was able to get the ventral of the Port wing and the dorsal of the SBRD wing done. It looked so nice I had to share!

20171010_210850 - Copy

I'm hoping to get the wings done this week and then start on the grey areas while I wait for some masks from another builder. (I just gotta get him the pattern.)

Thanks, as always, for the supportive comments and the viewing!

*Gwen DeMarco:* Sarris' ship accelerating toward us at Mark 2.
*Jason Nesmith:* Accelerate to Mark 4!

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Congrates on the new family member. :cheers2:


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Family member*



Milton Fox Racing said:


> Congrates on the new family member. :cheers2:


Thanks, Milton!

He's a few years off from modeling but I'll try and infect him as soon as he is old enough! The nice thing about Grandchildren is that you can always hand them back to the parents when the diaper is full!

Cheers!

Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Congratulations on your new son! 
Someone should issue a line of model kits for toddlers, call it "Baby's First Snap-Kit" or something.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*More Paint*



Trekkriffic said:


> Congratulations on your new son!
> Someone should issue a line of model kits for toddlers, call it "Baby's First Snap-Kit" or something.


Thanks, Trekriffic! Grandkids are great! You get to wind them up and then let Mom and Dad try and calm them down. In a weird way, it COULD be viewed as revenge for all the times they kept you up when they were young! :grin2:

So, I was able to get some paint on it (well, MORE paint on it) this weekend. I got the recesses on the Ventral of the wings painted. I HAD to rewatch the film to make sure the color was close enough! ;D

20171013_175727 

I am so leery of overspray, I'm afraid the masking for this was a bit excessive. Ah well.

I did get the bussard collectors painted as well as the plasma cannons on the dorsal of the primary hull. I also added one color of dark grey the dorsal of the engine pods.

20171015_093627 

The CM was tricky. I wanted to leave the horizontal surfaces white with the angled surfaces light grey. I used masking fluid on the horizontal surafaces but when I went to peel it off, the paint looked like I painted it with my eyes closed. The more I used that stuff the more I know I don't like it. So, I did what I should have to at the start - hand painted it. I am pretty happy with how it turned out though.

A gent on another forum has used his mask cutter to cut out, uhm, masks for the dorsal of the primary hull and they are on their way soon. I will try to get as far as I can up to before decals while I wait for the masks. I need to finish the display stand and the painting of the ship (touch ups and small areas) but I think I see the finish line in sight!

Stay tuned for more exciting updates!

Steve


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

It is all fun and games until they (grandkids) learn to run faster than you can move. :cheers2:


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

Now for the Orville sqaring off with it.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

publiusr said:


> Now for the Orville sqaring off with it.


Ooh, a crossover episode. I like it!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Orville v NSEA Protector*



publiusr said:


> Now for the Orville squaring off with it.


That WOULD be interesting!!

Got some more details painted on. Waiting for the masks for the upper primary hull to arrive.

But in the meantime - a quick shot...

20171019_212441 

Ta-Daaa!

Steve


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Bee-utiful! I'd throw mine in the garbage but that's too much work.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*It starting to look like the "real" thing!*

Good day, Fellow Questarians!



edge10 said:


> Bee-utiful! I'd throw mine in the garbage but that's too much work.


Aw, come on, Edge! I'd love to see your Protector build!! 

I hope you all had a productive weekend! I did! I was able to devote the ENTIRE Star Wars cinematographic anthology marathon time to bench work!

Okay. I had painted some of the detail work, for instance, the CM engine pods, the phase cannon strips, but they were not sealed. So I gave another coat of Future on it and, while I was at it, sealed the Emblem for the display stand, too.

20171025_175419

I was going to add detail the dorsal of the Primary Hull, but the custom masks I had printed up would be too large for the detail I wanted. I blame myself as I gave the printer the wrong measurements. So, I asked the several artists in the family their opinion and they all liked the clean top, so I will leave it clean; despite the fact that I had spend some time masking it off in prep for it!

20171026_212720 

Since that would have been the last major area to paint, I started peeling off the Bussard Collector masks and the Engine Pod masks. Then I started adding decals. I was really pleased the decals had a clear background as, once I put them on, the paint job showed through!

20171027_104544 
20171027_143623

For the most part, the decals are very good, if not a bit thick. Not a few Fangorian swear words were uttered when I had to apply the long blue strip down the hull. Both sides tore on me while I was trying to position them. But, thankfully, they were clean tears and covered well. Those little red ones on the wings were tedious to apply; very small and hard to handle. But there they are! Then I added another coat of Future over the decals.

Then I started clearing the windows in the CM. The paint and clear acrylic had been on there for months and chipped easily, so it was slow going with a very sharp xacto knife. Once I got the technique down, I was able to clear one side for photos. The hull windows were cleared, too.

20171029_171110 by Steve Hartzell, on Flickr

I also opened up the Aft of the Bussard Collectors. These had not been open for a few months. It was nice to see that detail already done.

20171029_172917 

That is as far as I have gotten. I still have to do a fair amount of touch ups and place the engine pod grills, finish the display stand and wiring and then mount the thing! But I am close!

Thanks as always for following and commenting!

The Battle call for the movie has never been more apropos

Never Give up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

This is looking great! Well done!


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*NSEA Protector Finally Finished!*

*Gwen:* Is this a "Space-ship"?

*Jason:* No! This is a the star port FOR the ship.
(a twinkle In his eye) 


Would you guys like to see the ship?

Greetings My Fellow Questerians!

Well Ladies and Gents, I am working up the series finale on the NSEA Protector! I did a concerted push to get the last fiddly-bits done and I have filmed the final episode. Now for a bit of post production!

I was able to finally put the Engine Pods grills on and boy did they add a fine level of detail to the build!

20171031_213220 

As I said before, I painted them with Dark Gull Grey and then sealed with several layers of Future! I then attached them with CA. Although, I did have to pop one off and add a bit of Perfect Plastic Putty (PPP) to seal a light leak!

20171031_213254 

I also cleaned up a light leak or two around the Intake manifolds (the little red lights) to show some separation of the lights. Besides, I thought this was a cool looking shot! ;D

After a couple of tedious evenings with 10X loops, a very bright light and four very sharp xacto knife blades, I was finally able to cut and clear the Starboard CM windows and the windows of the Primary Hull. It looks kinda cool, IMHO, to see all the lights burning!

20171101_214951 
20171101_215157 

I then snipped the Fiber Optics and trimmed and cleared them of any paint, re-glued the engine pod grill back in place, did a few more touch up and BAM! I was ready to wire the ship to the support rod and the base. So I carefully placed the rod and let it set for a couple of hours. Sorry about the messy bench, but I was on a roll and didn't stop for glamour shots as yet!

20171103_165459 

Once that was set and the glue cleaned up, I wired the base and plugged it in for a test! It worked! And suddenly, there she was! My Protector!

*Alexander Dane:* Oh! My God! It's Real!

20171103_225235 

And there she is!

I don't have any glamor shots yet, but I will soon and I will post some pics later!

I want to thank everybody who followed, commented and encouraged me through this YEAR LONG build! While I did put her aside for a bit to finish my TOS Romulan BoP last year, it has been a year since I first posted in this thread! 

Thanks again Everybody!

This fine ship! This fine Crew!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Awesome to see it all come together and in lighted glory. The hull colors blend very well, too.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

I may have already used this one but...

By Grabthar's hammer, what a build!

Really beautiful work Master Sergeant.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

This is great! Usually it's just cardboard walls in a garage.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Outstanding work! Absolutely gorgeous. I've never seen a better build of that ship.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Protector Eye Candy!*

Gents, Thanks so much for the kind words! I appreciate them all!

I thought I would give you some eye candy until I get my black background set up and photos taken.




























































Sorry about the last two. They were a bit busy with background stuff, but they are great, dynamic shots! The darker one shows the Fiber Optics I put in there that blink so I HAD to include that one!

(Yes! I was watching GQ while I was photographing! )

Dang the Resonance Cannons and Full speed ahead!

Steve


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

I hate to bring this up but... the two engine pods aren't straight. One's higher than the other (ducks).


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## FlyAndFight (Mar 25, 2012)

Great looking build!

Love the grills that you added. As you mentioned, they really pop.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

*Many Thanks!*

Hey Everybody!

Thanks for the support and kind appraisals of my work!



electric indigo said:


> Awesome to see it all come together and in lighted glory. The hull colors blend very well, too.


Thanks, e.i.! I'm glad the pearlescent white worked out so well! The couple of coats of Future put an overall sheen to it that help it blend.



edge10 said:


> I may have already used this one but...
> 
> By Grabthar's hammer, what a build!
> 
> Really beautiful work Master Sergeant.


Thank you, Sir! I don't mind repeats! (I mean, com'on, I've watched the Historical Document so many times I've lost count! 



Zombie_61 said:


> This is great! Usually it's just cardboard walls in a garage.


Ha! I love the quote! Thanks, Zombie, for following along!



Fozzie said:


> Outstanding work! Absolutely gorgeous. I've never seen a better build of that ship.


Thank you, very much, Fozzie! I really wanted to do a good showing for the ship! Thanks again!



FlyAndFight said:


> Great looking build!
> 
> Love the grills that you added. As you mentioned, they really pop.


Thanks, FnF! The grills are the Photo-Etch set for Pegasus Hobbies Model NSEA Protector 1/1400 from Paragrafix. While I didn't use a majority of the set (Photoetch includes detailing for the Command Module and a Shuttlebay) because of my design, it is still a wonderful set to buy for the build!



StarCruiser said:


> I hate to bring this up but... the two engine pods aren't straight. One's higher than the other (ducks).


StarCruiser, yeah I know. There are many flaws in the build that, as a builder, I can see and, if I let myself, on which I would focus. I am not really sure where the issue is with the pods. EVERY time I tried to correct it, I would split seams and have to spend hours re-puttying, sanding and repainting to get it back to where you see it. It could be in the vental primary hull (the part attached to the Primary hull where the wings attach to the ship) could be the distortion.

I didn't want to use a heat gun to fix it because 1) my heat gun was broken and 2) I didn't want to risk boiling the paint job to reform the ABS plastic so I left as is.

Lessons learned for next build! But that will wait as I will have to cycle through my stash before I build another one; which could be the mirror universe one! 

Thank again for looking and commenting! 

I sincerely appreciate the encouragement and support!

Never Give Up! Never Surrender!

Steve


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