# T-jet soup



## 9finger hobbies (Mar 11, 2008)

How long should I boil a t-jet chassis in a straightening jig and do I boil it with the top plate on ?


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Don't bother they eventually go back.Get another one!:wave:


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

Having a top plate on and magnets (that you don't care about) inside it is not a bad idea.

Boil abt 10-15 minutes. Don't let the water level get below the top of chassis. Then turn off the fire and let it sit to cool to room temperature in the pan.

Don't use a pan that you cook with as it will get t jet gunk in it. I use an old coffee can.

Doesn't hurt to add a little salt or something to the water to get the temperature a little higher above normal boiling point. The heat distortion temperature of nylatron is a little over 100C.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

My .02¢ whether you asked for it or Not. If it's a #4(open rivet) Chassis, don't bother, because it *isn't* warped, the front axle holes are drilled out of square.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

If your not completely OCD. The general consensus is to adjust your tire profile fractionally to level the ride best as possible.... and run it.


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

You can boil a chassis and it will stay straight. You have to boil it long enough to literally cook the memory out of the plastic. Then it will take a new memory.

Boil it at least 30 minutes at a hard, rolling boil. (I boil mine 45 minutes.) Then remove from the stove but leave in the pan and water so they all cool down naturally.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

This maybe off base for a T-Jet chassis,but i used to boil my Wizzard magnet car chassis's in a Armour-All and water mix.
I also boiled them twice with a slow cool down between boils,and never had a problem with a chassis trying to go back after it dried out.
I did like LD,a good 35 to 45 minute hard boil on each boil,and at least an hour cool down between boils


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

This is very interesting subject for me. Does anyone have a picture of a "Boiling Jig"? Can you make one? Or where can you purchase one?

Randy.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

rtho sells them

http://rt-ho.com/tools.html


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

just a note

turn on the timer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

otherwise you may be like me and return to cooking pot with no water:freak:

Sometimes being A.D.D. is not a benefit:wave:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

slotking said:


> just a note
> 
> turn on the timer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> ...




Glad it's not just me! 

For obvious reasons. I also turn on the timer when I pick up the soldering iron.:freak:


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## 9finger hobbies (Mar 11, 2008)

Thanks for the info guys. I have some straight chassis that I use to race , but I have a lot of chassis that are really torqued out of wack and I wanted to see how they would straighten out for me. I might end up with a bunch of jewels if boiling them works out.

Sam


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

just to note

some of my faster cars were not straight!
as long as there is no binding, just getting 4 tires to touch by using a bigger or smaller tire has also worked well for me.


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

slotking said:


> just to note
> 
> some of my faster cars were not straight!
> as long as there is no binding, just getting 4 tires to touch by using a bigger or smaller tire has also worked well for me.


I have been working this way as well. I try to find a "perfect" chassis but that's mighty hard to do, so settle for something that is good and close and then adjust the front tire sizes until tires are touching track equally.

I have tried my hand at boiling some chassis to generally good success but it is time consuming and a bit messy too, and then you always have to let them sit for a few days to make sure they don't spring back some.

Putting a top notch racing t-jet together can be a real bear. Start with a flat chassis, then find a flat top plate that gets along with your flat chassis that doesn't tweak it. Try different gear plate clamps until you find combo that works right and mark it for position front/back to ensure consistent reassembly. Then add magnets and make sure they don't tweak the chassis at all - if making a Fray car then sand the dash or JL magnets so they don't bind in there anywhere. Then check for binding between arm holes and between rear shaft holes. Peen holes snug but not too tight - you gotta have some slop but too much makes for energy loss in the gears. Yadda Yadda Yadda. If after doing all that plus innumerable other little tweaks you get a good fast fray car without losing your mind then you are ahead of the game!

I've found that even starting with a perfectly flat chassis and going all thru the motions of making sure it isn't getting tweaked anytime in the process I still sometimes have to tweak on the front tire sizes a little bit to make sure it is not teeter-tottering.

R.


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

Thank you Slotking. This thread has been a big help.

Randy.


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