# Red October and Typhoon Submarines



## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

Following the completion of my Airfix STS-1 build, I've started several submarines, including a pair of Typhoons (from the DML 1:350 kit). One I'm building into a 1:400 _Red October_ (1:400 since the ship in the movie was larger than a stock Typhoon), and the other a real-world Project 941 Akula, with stern modifications.

Here are the photos (pretty old; a lot of progress has been made since these were taken):

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober01.jpg

_Red October_, minus conning tower (which was modified with a scratch-built base), and modified dorsal fin, tipped with the towed array dispenser.

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/TyphoonStern01.jpg

Shows the stern of the DML Typhoon kit before I started modding it. I cut off either side of the beaver tail, and cut forward, until I reached the leading edge of the dorsal fin. Then..... :

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/TyphoonStern02.jpg

... I used forceps to hold the outboard segments together until they dried. Then, I puttied the seams, and beefed up the hull with plastic strips and more putty, to build it outboard. Once this was done, I installed the propeller shrouds (no props, as the six-bladed versions are not accurate to the real-world Typhoon's).

At this point, both boats are fully assembled (need to add ladder rungs to _Red October's_ conning tower, however), and they look great. Along with my other boats, they should produce a decent collection.

Also, this is the first time I've built submarine models. 


Leet


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Very impressive work! I like the modifications. What do you plan to do about the wrong bladed props?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

No idea at the moment, except perhaps to install the shaft/boss end, with no blades. I'd need a new set of seven-bladed, curved props (which would have to fit inside a 5/8" PVC pipe). I tried trimming the kit's props and test installing them, but they didn't look good. Therefore, out they went.


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

*Project Update*

Well, I just got ahold of a digicam, and took some new photos today of my models at their present stage of construction:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/TyphoonRedOctober.jpg

Both DML Typhoons converted into 1:400 _Red October_ and 1:350 Akula Project 941 SSBN. You can see the new conning tower on RO and the repositioned bow planes on the Akula, plus the stern mods.....

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Sterns.jpg

...Which are easier to see here. I still wish I had the skill to make a new set of props for the Akula....

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober02.jpg

Shot of all three submarines featured in The Hunt for Red October (DML 1:350 Typhoon, Revell 1:400 USS _Dallas_ w/SH-60B, and Maquette 1:400 Alfa class _V.K. Konovalov_).

You can't see it in the photos, but I've also added a ventral blister to _Red October_ as seen in the movie (the "cheek" blisters are noticeable, though). Once finished, I'll draw the outlines for the caterpillar doors.


Leet


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Very nice work there! :thumbsup: 

I like the extensive mods you've done to make the Red October. The other two from the movie look promising as well. Keep us posted!


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## NUM11BLADE (Feb 16, 2002)

I agree, nice work! I enjoyed checking out your progress, keep it up.:thumbsup:


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

Thanks. This is probably the most significant change I've made to a model (even counting the Minicraft 1:144 space shuttle orbiter last year). I spent most of my time before I started building planning how I'd cut up the Akula's stern to modify it for the new shrouds and stabilizers.

I'm still stuck on paint for the RO, however. The only good resource I've found is the website below:

http://www.jetcafe.org/bruce/portfolio/Movies_4/FrameSet.htm

The model was apparently two shades of gray (probably medium and light), and the _Konovalov_ was a medium gray, with a light gray spot painted on the bow. Any ideas?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

Update:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober04.JPG

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober05.JPG

Looking at the studio model photos again, I decided to build a new towed array dispenser, since the old one seemed too large. Opinions?


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Looks great,makes me want to rethink my work in progress RO.But as I have to move,it will have to wait.The only thing I dont see is the "catapiller" drive doors,or will that come later?just asking. I think the propellers were seven blades,so the way I would do it is to carve one blade and cast them,then make new props.Hope this helps.


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

I really did think about adding the open caterpillar apertures (even going as far as installing tubing inside the hull so you could see from one end to the other). Given my eight other sub projects, however, I decided to build the boat with the silent drive shut down. There's also the issue of the pegs inside the hull where the screws fit (two of which were in the bow), and wouldn't have been easy to deal with.

As for the prop blades, the model used in the movie had six (which were variable pitch; you can see this clearly in the descending shot when the aft caterpillar doors are opened). The DML-provided props are close enough in shape, and have the correct number of blades for RO.


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

I've always loved subs. Simple, minimalistic from the outside, elegant. Yet I never built one. Looking at your builds really inspires me!  I especially love the Akula conversion.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Great Model  - Bravo.
I'm a subs model enthusiast myself, but I never done a major modification like you. Those modif are just marvelous.

btw, just wondering, if you're aiming for 1/400 subs, why don't use Revel's Typhoon.

Do you have other subs model? really like to have a look at them


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

Thanks for the compliments, guys. I had looked at the Revell 1:400 Typhoon, and decided it wasn't worth the effort. The conning tower was too large, bow was too flattened (instead of the more rounded bulb as seen in the movie) and the stern was grossly inaccurate. The DML Typhoon kit was best, in that it had the right shape and proportions, and it was perfect for 1:400 scale _Red October_ (remember that the RO was ~640-650 feet long, so the 19.2" long Typhoon kit was perfect at that scale).

The majority of my other subs are 1:350, with the exception of the _Dallas_ and _Konovalov_, which are 1:400, and the 1:230 USS _Scorpion_ (from the _Skipjack_ kit). The others are the 1:350 _Ohio_, 688(I) vs. _Alfa_, and K-141 _Kursk_, along with the Project 941 Akula.

I'm also planning to buy the upcoming DML 1:350 USS _Seawolf_ along with the Trumpeter 1:144 version.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

In that case, I can understand your choice of 1/350 DML's Typhoon.
The Kursk is a 1/350 from Zvezda, I suppose? Got this one, open the box and sand some of the puttied parts, but haven't complete it. Somehow I feel the need to detail-up the missile bay, but didn't have a reliable info, it seems wierd to have the bay opened and showing a rather bare inner compartment.

 - - I first learn the 1/144 Seawolf after reading a news for the upcoming 1/350. I anxiously looks for both. Btw, any news for the Virginia class boat? any known planned plastic model (those resin are waaayyy to expensive).


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

The only 1:350 _Virginia_ that I know of is the resin kit offered by Yankee Modelworks, at $50 a pop. Looks nice, but I'd like to find something in a more modest price range.

One idea I've had is modifying a DML 1:350 688 class boat into _Virginia_ by cutting the hull in half, adding a 7/16" plug, among other changes (pumpjet propulsor would be a problem, however).

Try http://submarine.id.ru/thumbs/949/index.shtml for details on the Oscar II Project 949A sub, including photos of the open missile hatches. Mine are glued shut, as I didn't see a point to having them displayed. I want mine displayed in normal trim.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Honestly I didn't favor buying resin kit, it's too expensive.
I think it's a great idea to modified the Virginia based on (Hampton) 1/350 DML? but alas, I only bought one that time, maybe for the sake of reducing my hobby expense I intend to recast the DML LA then modified it. But that will required big effort.

For the Oscar class, thanks for the link man, great pic, but seems it's not clear enough to detail-up the inner missile comp. But I think the pic is a valuable resource.

Regarding the Kursk color scheme, do you paint the boat overall black? or it got two tone (black for the upper hull and gray for the lower hull)? Coz I once seen a three color scheme (red for the bow sonar casing).


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

The lower hulls on all three of my Russian subs are going to be primer red, with the sonar windows a reddish orange. This is based on further photos at submarine.id.ru, in addition to my own inferences based on their color schemes. I have also seen photos of the _Kursk_ in drydock, following the salvage operation, where she clearly has a reddish-looking lower hull (weathered, obviously).

I do think that some Russian subs were painted black overall, with metallic silver-coated sonar/sensor windows in the bow, but not all of them.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Regarding the Kursk, after the salvage operation I've seen some pic taken from the aft, it shows light gray (weathered), but looking at the commisioning pic which taken from directly fore, it shows red - this makes me confuse. But thanks for the info now - I think I'll go with lower Red hull.

The metallic silver-coated is for newer boat? But in K-19:the Widow Maker, the hotel class was painted all black except for sonar window. (I personally think overall black is cool  )


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

No, the metallic sonar windows were on the older boats. More modern subs have a reddish orange color instead. Look at this photo of a Delta IV, taken within the past few years:

http://submarine.id.ru/galery/t616.shtml

And an Alfa with the same paint scheme (for some reason, it's in the Akula gallery) :

http://submarine.id.ru/galery/t644.shtml

You can clearly see the color difference between the sensor windows and the rest of the lower hull.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

waw  - great pic. I never seen the pic before, thanks for pointed it man.
Yes the Russian indeed using red for the lower hull. (I've painted my 1/700 Alfa with whole black-dark grey scheme).

Still on the paint scheme, have you heard about USN Subs will be painted in all black scheme?


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

seawolf said:


> Still on the paint scheme, have you heard about USN Subs will be painted in all black scheme?


Aren't subs that are covered in rubber tiles already black all over?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

As far as I know, SSN-23 and SSN-774 are the only boats so far that have been delivered with an all-black paint scheme (by "delivered", I mean that's how Electric Boat finished them; the Navy may repaint them as they see fit). The _Seawolf_ and all 688 class subs (even those with anechoic tiles) have a red lower hull. More recent builds have a dark gray band between the red and black, with the dark gray continuing down over the bottom of the sonar window. Check out these photos of USS _Greeneville_ (SSN-772) in drydock:

http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/08772.htm

Then there's the photo of _Seawolf_ taken during her commissioning ceremony, where you can see dark gray below the freeboard waterline:

http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/080021.htm

About halfway down the page. Older boats had black/red hulls as well, with the dividing line about mid-casing (The _Ohio_ class subs, at least, were painted with red all the way up to the waterline when first launched, but the black was extended downward later).


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

^^Thanks for the info!


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

- I'm glad they all painted black, makes easier for me to paint the model, and they will look meaner.

talking about the rubber tile, I know that LA or LA(i) class has the rubber tile on their hull and quite visible on several high res picture. But does Seawolf class has the rubber tile pasted to their hull like LA or LA(i)-wise?

I once heard, but can't be confirmed that the Seawolf class boat are using some kind of rubber to cover the hull. So no separated single tile by tile on their hull. Any info for this?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

*Update*

_Dallas, Konovalov_ and _Scorpion_ are nearly finished. The _Ohio_ and 688(I) are coming along nicely, as well.

New photos:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/1350Subs01.jpg

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Subs01.jpg

Should have some finished boats by next weekend.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

hmm, I can't see the second link, but the first link clearly shows a great collection of subs 

btw, Leet, do you use Spray Can paint to color the subs or using an Air brush pen?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

I used a sponge brush, actually. The overall colors are achieved with craft paints (I'm particularly fond of the red oxide color), then smoothed to finish. I've used the same technique since early last year, from texturing the external tank on my first STS-1, to smoothing out the orbiter's belly (which turned out fantastic).

Once I'm finished painting them, I'll spray a gloss coat overall to apply decals, then finish with a matte coat.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Leet, I'm not familiar with the sponge brush technique. Care to fill me in? tks 

I paint big model 1/350 with spray can paint, and need to re-paint it layer by layer to have a smooth finishing, but it cost me detail 

then for 1/700 I spray the boat with dark gray spray paint, then 'wash' it with several layer of darker paint (I used Tamiya). I wonder, does this techn'q is the same with sponge brush?

Btw, is it your model of Typhoon and Kursk in the Model Warship , I've got my Seawolf there also.


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

No, my Akula and Kursk models aren't on modelwarships.com, yet. I've yet to finish them, though they are coming along nicely.

The sponge brush technique I mentioned is simply to apply the paint using a 1" sponge brush, which you can find at Hobby Lobby or any other craft store. It takes a number of coats, and there's a greater risk of glopping the paint at corners and crevasses, but if done right, it results in a smooth finish.

Anyway, six of my subs have been completed:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctoberFleet.jpg
1:400 Red October fleet. The RO is the DML 1:350 Typhoon, _Dallas_ is the 1:400 Revell USS _Dallas_, and _Konovalov_ is the Maquette 1:400 K-123 kit.

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Dallas.jpg

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Konovalov.jpg

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober06.jpg

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober07.jpg

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/RedOctober08.jpg

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Ohio68801.jpg
My finished _Ohio_ and 688(I) subs, from the 1:350 DML kits.

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Ohio68802.jpg

The _Scorpion_ is basically out-of-the-box from the 1:230 _Skipjack_ kit. The only changes were omitting the marking decals and the reactor hatch.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Fantastic!


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

great 1/350 LA class (DML), I've seen several model painted with black (top hull) and red (lower hull), but your color selection indeed give me some input for the 3 color scheme 

btw, I've seen a Seawolf 1/144 is avail in HLJ.com, anybody got it? and in progress to build it? any review please (ow, I can't wait to get her from local model shop here)


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

HLJ has the Seawolf on backorder. Most likely it won't be available in the US until early next year (hopefully not the same for the 1:350 DML version).

Meanwhile, I bought the 1:350 USS _Hampton_ today, with the intent to use its spare (smaller) prop for my Akula mod. I have one from the _Dallas_ vs. Alfa kit. They are curved seven-bladed. I'll reverse one to mirror the opposite propeller, and they should fit inside the Akula's shrouds.

I'll post photos once this is completed.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

I've just check the HLJ, the Seawolf are avail according to the website. 
Hampton is a great kit, but you need to cut some parts of the hull. (seems that Hampton is based on the previouse 688 class boat).


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

> the Seawolf are avail according to the website.


Not according to HLJ:

http://www.hlj.com/scripts/hljpage.cgi?TRP05904

I'm thinking about what to do with the USS _Hampton_ kit. I already have a Flight III 688 (all three flights would require removing the model's stern section and replacing with the accessory parts; the 'as-is' stern matches the USS _Dallas_ model from Hunt for Red October). I'm thinking of either a Flight I 688 with drydeck shelter, or shortening it to a _Sturgeon_ class, incorporating other modifications (possibly including a DSRV scratchbuild).

Thoughts?


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

oops, I'm apologizing for the wrong information. At the hlj page when I search for submarine, it turn out that Seawolf have the 'Just In' remark - I didn't pay attention to the 'backorder' remark, really sorry. My mistakes.

I will opt to 688 first flight, complete it with DSRV 'Avalon' (as per the movie HfRO), to make it as a sturgeon, I dunno, does the hull diameter is the same with 688? if not, you gonna have a hard time modifying it.


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

The diameter isn't much of a problem, as the _Sturgeons_ were only 1.5 feet narrower than the 688. Shortening the hull won't create any significant problems, and I can move the conning tower forward towards the bow. The only other major mod that would have to be made is relocating the towed array shroud to the port side, although I've had experience lengthening the shroud on my _Dallas_.

I might also go ahead and build a DSRV from scratch, and perhaps paint the _Sturgeon_ in "skunk" markings, as can be seen here:

http://www.navsource.org/archives/08/08667.htm

Second image down. Although, I'm already planning a 1:400 DSRV for the _Dallas_.

EDIT: Here's a photo showing the new props installed on the Akula:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/TyphoonStern.JPG


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Leet, I can't wait to see your Sturgeon in 'skunk' marking (the lower hull will be red or black?), Looking at the 'skunk' marking making me remember one of the pic of british nuke subs, painted with blue and dark green scheme. It's ugly but make it a unique one LOL.

anyway, if you don't have any prob with major modification gotta be done, then go with it man  - I will wait to your masterpiece.

and for DSRV, u will scratch build it, mind to share what material you'll be using for the cylindrical hull? I'm currently scratching a 1/700 Seawolf, lucky to find a big ballpoint pen which match the diameter and part of the aft section, I then scratch the bow with paper board skeleton and cover it with putty (it's almost 3 months now and I'm kinda desperate), so if you have any advise for scratch building, please share man. tks.

for the props, u use the one from Hampton?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

I haven't yet decided on whether to paint her in those markings or not. It's a tempting idea, anyway. That'll be the least of my problems compared to shortening the boat. Then again, it should be pretty easy compared to a similar project in mind - lengthening a 1:230 _Skipjack_ into a _George Washington_ SSBN. 

The DSRV will be made using a segment of extra-large sprue from the DML Typhoon kit. It has about the right diameter for a 1:400 DSRV. All I'll have to add are the docking port and propeller, in addition to drilling holes for the thrusters and other surface detail.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

yup, paiting is at the very end of the process  - waw, man I really gotta give u a spray from the tug boat  - you modification skill or plan keep making my head shake LOL. Skipjack to be George Washington - now that's a challange.

for the extra large sprue? I got the DML kit of Typhoon, but I didn't see any large sprue?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

It should be the large material holding the hull halves together. If that doesn't work, try finding something, like styrene tubing, that matches the scale diameter of the DSRV. Then proceed from there (more difficult, since the tube's hollow, by definition).

Meanwhile, my K-141 _Kursk_ is complete:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Kursk01.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Kursk02.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Kursk03.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Kursk04.jpg

I tried my best to match the color scheme of the actual boat, though I'm not sure about lower bow configuration (the sonar windows may be reddish-orange instead of red primer).


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

*WoW............*

Going to have to put the cars away and do some Military sea going vessels. Great shots and thanks for sharing! :thumbsup: rr


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Thanks for the tips, I think that's what I do to make the 1/700 Seawolf 

Leet for the Kurck, again, (applause) - another great model. 
Looking at the color scheme, dunno why I opted to have to lower part to be painted with dark gray  - but great model.

btw, the upper hull is painted with flat black? or you mix some tone with the black?


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

Both the Russian subs have a mix of dark gray/black, while the American boats are darker.

And now, the finished products:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/1350Collection.jpg

All 1:350 scale. Top shelf:

Project 941 Akula
Project 949A Antey, K-141 Kursk
Project 705 Lira, Alfa class

Bottom shelf:

Ohio class SSBN
Flight III Los Angeles class SSN.

Some detail shots of the Typhoon:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Typhoon02.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Typhoon03.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Typhoon04.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Typhoon05.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Typhoon06.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/Typhoon07.jpg

Then a comparison of the Typhoon's and _Red October_'s sterns:

http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/SternComparison01.jpg
http://jtrun.mine.nu/cc/fox/SternComparison02.jpg

Note that the RO's stern is almost unchanged from the kit version, whereas the Typhoon's is beefed out, with added stabilizer fins, propeller shrouds, and aft diving planes. The ramps forward on the after deck are rounded, as well.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

Leet, great job on the stern modif (I still amazed after looking at it again  ) - btw, the color scheme for RO and the regular Typhoon is differ?

and, for the Russian boat, white water line marking. Do you use the pure white paint? or mix it with some light gray (I personally prefer the light gray, coz it can tone down the white color of the paint). Until now, my Typhoon got no white line marking, due to my lazyness, do you paint it manually or using a masking technique? (hell of a job man).


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

All the stripes are light gray, as it's a better comparison to the coloration of the draft and hatch decals. It also doesn't contrast as bad next to the black hull. My only gripe is that the long waterline stripes are not perfect.

One thing I might do today is paint around the windows and reduce some of the decal glare, and possibly retouch the waterline stripes some.

_Red October_ was much different from the Typhoon, with a two-tone hull color (see the link of the finished sub earlier in the thread).


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## Doggy (Jan 29, 2000)

Hey All;

Since we're talking about subs...

Which is the more accurate, Blue Water Navy or Dragon? I've got the 1:350 scale LA class and Soviet Alfa models from both companies and the sculpting is very different.

The BWN kits are depict much thinner, more streamlined hulls, whereas the Dragon kits seem to feel both boats are much "fatter". I've never seen two companies' models depict the same subject so differently before. Not being an expert I've got to assume someone's off. My gut instinct is that the Blue Water Navy kits are more accurate....

Also, is there a Soviet Akula kit available in 1:700 scale? I really love that boat.

D.


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

hi Doggy, since this is just for discussion, I personally can't says which one is more accurate - I'll use DML Typhoon 1/350 and Revell Tyhoon 1/400 (I'm aware the scale is differ  ) - but the point is, the Revell Typhoon looks more fat, and the detail of the anechoic tile is too accentuated, imho for the 1/400 scale the anechoic tile should be finer.

compared with the DML's Typhoon. the subs looks slimmer and the tile pattern is finer. Which one is correct? I dunno, but seems that I favor for the DML (but something lack in the boomer's sail portion) - maybe Leet can give some comment about both Typhoon also hehe 

I also have a Combat Subs Resin model 1/350 of USS Seawolf. After comparing the detail of the upper hull with the 1/350 of the Seawolf from BWN, I've seen something differ. The BWN's I think is more accurate compared to the low-res Seawolf plan. 

Maybe anyone wanna compare the 1/700 Kursk (waterline) from Tamiya with 1/350 Zvezda Kursk. I think the 1/700 (even it is smaller physically) has more detail then the Zvezda kit. 

So all in all, I don't know which one is correct - and this gave me a hard time to have a close to accurate subs kit


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## Leet (Dec 1, 2000)

From what I've seen BWN's kits are more detailed and accurate than DML's. They also produce a greater variety of subs in 1:350, whereas DML has only five (including the upcoming 1:350 _Seawolf_). I'd like to at least get the BWN 1:350 Akula SSN, and perhaps the _Virginia_.

As for the two Typhoon kits, take a look at these two pages:

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/ss/ru/typhoon-350-jf/ss-index.html

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/ss/ru/typhoon-400-ck/typhoon-index.html

Note that King's model is the terribly-molded 1:400 Typhoon. It really doesn't give room to accurize. As I've said, before, its hull shape is totally wrong. DML's is at least the right shape and proportion to produce a good kit (and yes, even the conning tower is good).


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## seawolf (Nov 3, 2004)

yup, agree with you Leet, I kinda regret buying the Revell's Typhoon. But due to the limited availability of subs in local store and I'm 'blinded' by the rare subs model - I bought the Revell's Typhoon without discussing or try to find some reference 

the BWN has a great but imho, expensive model - that why I didn't expand my resin subs collection


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