# Tomy G+ hop up tips



## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

I'm really enjoying these cars a lot.But I also have the "need for speed" if you will .
Oh,don't get me wrong,these cars are plenty fast straight out of the blister pack,but I want more.

I see tons of hop up parts for these cars all over the web,as well as RTR rolling chassis.
Rather then go and blow a bunch of dough,I thought I would ask you guys what would be some good parts to go with to build up a couple of these cars.
Tires are pretty much a given,as all of the ones on the cars I have needed to be trued right out of the pack.They were all badly cupped.

Looking for some ideas as I will be making a trip soon to a store that stocks just about anything I could need.I want to make a shopping list before I go.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!

Mike


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

The first thing I do without spending any money is to make the front wheels independant. I pull the wheels off and drill one oversize and assemble them back to the chassis using an AFX front axel, or a straight wire nail, with the wheel on the head side free spinning and the wheel on the other side pressed on.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I'd do the following, in order:

1) Mount a set of double flanged rear wheels and add some silicone slip-ons. Get at least one size above and one size below the nominal height rear tire. If possible get one or two more sizes below the nominal height. (www.SuperTires.com has a chart as do most of the other tire vendors.) This will set you back less than $10.00 for the wheels and tires.

2) Get a BSRT G3 (soft or medium chassis) and move all of your SG+ parts over to the G3 chassis. It's much more rugged and smoother running. This will set you back about $7.00.

3) Replace the stock axle with an 0.059" axle. Mount a Slottech 23T crown gear and a BSRT 7T pinion. Use axle spacers to get the proper gear mesh. This will set you back less than $10.00, depending on how fancy of an axle you get. Wizzards work fine.

4) Mount some ski shoes or short (limited travel) ski shoes. These are a buck a pair.

5) Mount an independent front end kit designed for the G car. Most of the racing vendors have these.

If you have access to someone who really knows how to setup a G car it would be great to get a hands-on tutorial. Setting up the G car endbell brushes can yield a huge improvement but it's hard to describe how to do it. Someone needs to walk you through it.


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## EBasil (Jan 11, 2000)

We race a lot of the SG+ cars, and it's certainly the favorite for "painless creation of fast cars" in our group. Our two most commonly raced classes of SG+ are what we slanged "Garage Stock" and "SuperStock", but don't bear much if any relationship to what national organizations do (and the garage term refers to the location of most of our tracks).

Our "Garage Stock" class is the entry class, and we do the least number of things to the cars that we think are necessary to make them great racers for minimum additional investment:
--we buy "tyco rear axle KITS" from Scale Auto. These include an .059" rear axle with crown gear, hubs, tires and pinion gear, for $2.00. We tear off the glued-foam tires, and replace them with either .430 or .434" SuperTires "A" compound tires (.75cents/set) and then swap the whole set, including pinion, into the SG+. This frees up the drivetrain and gets us on silicone tires quickly.
--we either flatten out the stock shoes or install BSRT ski shoes on the cars. We don't care if they're copper or gold/silver plated (well, we care, but you can do anything). We also do some things to the shoes/system that allows the car to run lower and smoother. First, we bend the "hanger buss" that the back side of the shoe hooks onto the car with, so that it doesn't extend down so low (I bend toward the rear of the car) that it can hit a rail when you're running the new lower tires; second, we use a Dremel to grind off a little of the hook at the back of the shoe...also for rail clearance.
--many of the cars also switch to an independent front end, but not all.

Our "SuperStock" class is the same, essentially, but you can run either gold or silver hanger busses and endbell kits, any stock or "superstock" armature, any brand rear axle/tire (here is where the double-flanged hubs show up...and the occasional silicone-over-foam tires), any crown gear, pinion gear, front end kit, guide pin, etc... Just no aftermarket magnets. So, the primary tuning tricks are still just what's done to the Garage Stock cars.

In either, you can do some tweaking to the endbell, but it's not really necessary unless you get an arms race going.


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