# Aurora Candy Color -repaint help...



## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Hey guys, I recently acquired an original Aurora '63 Vette Body, that was Candy Blue color(see my "Low Budget Race Team" thread), but someone started to remove the paint, to reveal a Tan Plastic underneath 
Anyway, I'd like to repaint this body in close to the original Candy Blue Color, although it's not meant to fool anyone, just look alot better than it is now. Sooo, my question is, does Testors make a little rattle (Spray)Can in a Candy Blue that is a close match ? If not, does Dupli-Color make a Spray bomb that is close .... those are my only two paint options.
Thanks in advance. ~Ralph


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

The closest I have seen to the original Candy Blue is Testors " Arctic Blue Metallic" Of course you would need a silver undercoat. Hopefully More folks will chime in on this as there could be a color that I don't know of. Possibly Tamiya Clear blue over silver as a another choice?? Whatever choice you make I think you would need to strip the whole car instead of doing a color match which would be very difficult. You should also consider paint options available in the 60's too Mayybe Testors Candy blue from that era????
Clyde-0-Mite


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks Clyde, you gave me something to think about as options :thumbsup:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

FWIW Ralph

I'd go Duplicolor black lacquer base coat. Alclad. Then your choice of delicous Candy followed by a clear coat to protect your work. I have had great results with the Metalcast brand candy/transparents. I get mine at Napa.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=3871564&postcount=2087

So rather than layering the silver like frost between coats of candy blue; Just go successive layers of Candy over the Alclad base until you get the color you like.

There will be two tricks. First is the Alclad. Less is more! Just one easy coat over the black base. Anymore and it will pile up rather than lay down liquid smooth. Second is tiptoeing the first coats of candy so's not upset or re-activate the alclad. The idea is to seal it gently first.

Somewhere in the way back Joe did a striking Cobra in Candy blue over Alclad.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Bill's Alclad recommendations are rock solid. I myself am a Bomb-Canner. This color below is a Tamiya Metallic. It's likely too flakey to correctly match the original Aurora candy blue, but I can't say enough good things about Tamiya brand cans. Their paint lays down in very light fast drying coats if you take your time. Far superior IMHO to most Testors choices. This was shot over silver and sealed with Future.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks Guys....I'll probably go with Bills (and 'Nuthers) Suggestions, tho I've never used Alclad or Metalcast before.
BTW 'n-Dave, I really like that Mustang, and like the Billiard Ball 15 on the hood :thumbsup:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

The Alclad and the Metalcast really need to be laid down with an airbrush, Ralph. If you want, strip the body the best you can, and then send it to me and I'll shoot it for you. Just let me know what color you want and I'll try to make it pretty for you.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

:thumbsup: Thank you Joe, for that kind offer. But, I think I'm gonna play with this puppy all by myself. What better way to learn, than hands-on


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

slotcarman12078 said:


> The Alclad and the Metalcast really need to be laid down with an airbrush, Ralph. If you want, strip the body the best you can, and then send it to me and I'll shoot it for you. Just let me know what color you want and I'll try to make it pretty for you.


Now theres the old Hobbytalk attitude. Joe thanks for being a great dude.:thumbsup:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

That's cool Ralph. You'll get it. Bill's advice is spot on, so do what you can to get it there. If you run into a problem, let us know. My offer will be available as a back up plan, but I think you'll hit a home run and won't need it.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Go on....pull the trigger*

Well Ralph, in all honesty, isnt it a no brainer? 

Given your love of modeling and skill level, it might be time for you to pick up an airbrush. I got my first lightly used one at a garage sale. A while back Jerry got a great coupon deal on a top loader Iwata made unit... from....Hobby Lobby? 

Unlike some of the entry level plasticated weirdo models, it's a well made, user friendly unit that will provide years of good service. I still want one to back up my dual action siphon unit. 

The secret to all spray painting is liquid volume, air pressure, and prep work. The air brush allows you to scale two of the big three down to HO scale. It'll give you the touch you've been looking for; or never knew you had.


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

"It'll give you the touch you've been looking for; or never knew you had." Unfortunately my touch is still lost, I'll keep looking for it!


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*the "Touch"*



bobwoodly said:


> "It'll give you the touch you've been looking for; or never knew you had." Unfortunately my touch is still lost, I'll keep looking for it!


 Bobwoodly> But, if you "Touch" it too much, you'll go Blind


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Practice makes almost perfect BW. That and thinking like an HO scale body man. :lol:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Think of it this way...

Spraying and HO scale car body with a bomb can is the 1:1 equivalent of painting a car with a fire hose.


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