# Moebius....Interstellar Ranger



## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Fantastic kit and a look at the kit

https://youtu.be/T_MmS-rMfUw


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I know there is going to be excellent builds of the Ranger so I wanted to go another route to make the two seater Ranger as seen at the end of the movie. I'm going to convert the 1/72 Ranger kit into a 1/32 scale two seater , first things first got the canopy removed from the kit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With canopy cut out I used it as template and with the limited reference material and a few screen grabs of the two seater with some styrene I made the new canopy, This will be sanded and squared up and vacuform in clear.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Red putty applied to the new scratchbuilt canopy, once dry I wet sanded the canopy to get it smooth and keeps the sanding dust at bay, next shot a couple coats of primer.


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Good to see and Ranger build. I hadn't realized it could be used to build the smaller craft used at the end of the movie.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the two seater cockpit interior I am going to use balsa foam to carve out the basic shape of the console, instead of laminating styrene and sanding to shape. This way I can vacuform the pieces and include lighting if so desired.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

*ALRIGHT!! * 

Great to see a modeler going the distance! Love what your doing there so far! The heck with with all this photo etch this and p.e that....It takes a REAL
builder with REAL passion to create out of thin air ( and the old parts box ) what is not presented in the kit. Hats off to you Sir! YES! 

( I do wnat to add to my rant )

In some cases P.E sets are a GOD SEND....For example .....as part of my Lady Friends bucket list ....I building for her The 1/350th scale TITANIC again. Hull cut at 
water line with all the works and lighting like nutz! The PE sets for that kit that are amazing.....lets face it with smaller scale of most military und aviation subjects those 
cockpit and body brass detail sets are 'da bomb' 
*
Still on this build WHOO WHOO!!!* :thumbsup:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

The cockpit console which is carved out of balsa foam just needs a little more sanding and some simplified detail before i mold and vacuform it. For the rest of the interior I scratchbuilt the floor and walls with styrene, again there is hardly no reference for the side walls and back seat section and TARS takes up a lot of space in the back seat. Since a lot of it can't be seen I am going to simplify this area (which it mold easier) and make it generic busy looking.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Cut up some scrap styrene for the console view screen instrument panel and super it glued to the balsa foam console, did a little scribing in the foam and I will vacuform this in clear so the console can be lit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

The aft section of the cockpit look to me to be slanted )Tars is blocking the view) so I am taking Monster Clay and sculpting out a generic aft section and once done I will make a mold, cast and put in the new part.


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Guess you'll be doing a scale TARS as well to fill the back?


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Not too hot on compliments given huh?


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I will most likely add a 1/32 TARS to the conversion kit:thumbsup:

I do love the compliments they are most appreciated, my build along posts are done to help out fellow modelers with tips, tricks and spark ideas which i believe is what the Hobby is all about!:thumbsup:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I smooth out the Monster clay basic shape aft section of the cockpit using a spatula and water/alcohol mix, then added some styrene for some added detail and shot it with a coat of primer so I can see where need to refine it. Once I get it the way I want i will break apart the walls and make a mold and cast the part.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Not to bore everyone wanted to show everyone how I do things for the aft section of the cockpit which was sculpted in Monster clay I made a waste mold and casted the part so i can have a solid to piece to finish out for the vacuform buck.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With the parts now vacuformed (kits will be available soon) I can start assembly. The canopy and console will be vacuformed in PETG clear, I know it it hard to see in the pic and I will most likely light the two seater ranger but more on that later. Next I am just cutting out the parts off the styrene sheet for the interior, test fitting and then trimmed for final placement.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the clear console I took some green painters taper and masked off the view screen areas that will be lit and clear. I will shoot a coat of flat black and then two heavy coats of primer to light block and the heavy coats of primer will give the allusion of frames around the masked off view screens.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

One question I get about vacuform kits from modelers " I get intimidated how do you cut it out?" and the the secret is really simple on the part take a #2 pencil and trace out the part on the sheet, from the pencil line cut either 1/16 or like me 1/8 of an inch from the part and cut then sand down the edges of the part to where the part begins. 

I got the interior parts cut out and put in and the cockpit tub trimmed down. To fill some gaps i will use some Tulip fabric paint (which is thick acrylic paint) to blend the interior parts and while I was at it added three leds to the console to light up the two seater Ranger. I will also use the Tulip to blend the console to the cockpit tub and Tulip will be use for additional light leaks.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Tulip duty- Tulip is a thick acrylic paint and is used when standard model putty would not be applicable or try to sand those hard to reach places. Tulip is used around the edge of the aft section cockpit piece to blend the parts together and Tulip can be smooth out with water and any applicator even your finger. One thing that needs to be said is tulip is not sandable! it is just a good filler to fill in cracks, seams etc.... Got the seats in trimmed and sanded and I will detail the backs out from the spares box, more on that to come.


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

Most impressive! Great idea using Tulip (my new favorite light blocker). Can't wait to see the finished product. So with this conversion, what does it scale out to? 1/35? 1/48?

Rob
Iwata Padawan


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I scaled mine out for 1/32 but all the 1/35 scale and 1/32 BSG deck equipment can be used.:thumbsup:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Took some scrap styrene and covered up the open landing gear bays. Next got the Two seater ranger on a PL universal dome base, replaced the metal rod that comes with the dome for a aluminum one so I can fish the wires through and hide the 9v battery in the base. I epoxy the Ranger to the dome base and began masking the new vacuform canopy.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Next on the to do list is to blend the vacuform cockpit tub to the edge of the hull. Dynatron red putty is used and when dry i will sand this smooth and when sanding in general is is always good to sand in a circular motion than back and forth you will get a more even result.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

A little bit of sanding and a quick shot of rattle can primer. I use Iron Armor sandable primer from Harbor Freight, I like this primer it adheres well almost like Mr. Surfacer, just a really great primer! After shooting the primer I do have some spots that i need to fill in with some tulip and I will shoot a couple more coats to finish out the construction phase of the cockpit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With white Tulip went back where I missed the first go around of tulip. Got the main hulls attached and with the workbench lights off I can go in with the Tulip and take care of any light leaks.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Working the vacuform kit canopy, after a few heavy coats of primer had dried I traced the canopy with a number two pencil which gives me a outline to cut the canopy out and for a rule I cut 1/16-1/8 from the part and sand to shape. The canopy does fit good and I will shoot another round of primer and then the canopy frame color. When I remove the masking tape the heavy coats of primer will give a nice edge around the canopy.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

To add some extra detail to the cockpit I used some styrene rod for the back of the seats and for the side walls some 1/700 ship part greebles. I am going to keep the greeble detail light I don't wait to make to busy looking in the cockpit and I stuck a 1/32 figure on the hull for reference.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Painting begins on the interior, the base coat is Model Master gunship grey as will the canopy be this color. Once dry I will go back in with a dark grey filter wash and a little dry brushing and a few passes with the airbrush and that will be all the detail painting it will get as I believe cockpit interior are hardly seen and basically detailed with shadows.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Took the masking tape of the vacuform console, I used a blue and cool white leds wire to a 9v battery which this combo gives the view screens a unique look. I got a little tape residue and bleed on the mask off parts so I will go in with a micro brush and little paint thinner and clean it up. For decals for the view screens I will probably use something like the star trek TOS bridge screen decals cut to fit.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

LOOKING! GOOD! :thumbsup:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Adding a pilot, this figure came from the ol' parts box he is from an late 70's early 80's 1/32 plane kit. He is just generic looking flight suit to make Cooper's style flight suit he wore at the end of the movie. To make the figure work for the new cockpit I only used half the figure and to give the allusion of depth in the cockpit tub I cut out the vacuform seat and put the pilot into the seat and a little surgery on the legs.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For any cockpit interior from scifi,WW2, modern aircraft I always start out with a filter was. A filter wash is just heavily watered down acrylic paint just to get very light coat of the pigment. After the wash dries I will go back in and do a heavy dry brush on the inside in the interior which will blend in with the wash and third phase will shoot some highlights with the airbrush to bring it all together. I don't spend a lot of time detailing a cockpit or interior when shadows cover it or it is hidden.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

Has this kit shown up in anybody's LHS yet?


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Finished putting the remainder of the parts that go on the botton of the Ranger. Since I am making the two seater Ranger in flight I filled in the side landing gear bays with Aves Apoxie sculpt, smooth those out and with the aid of my sculpting tool (a toothpick) put on some panel lines for the landing gear doors.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Up next I wanted to show My style of painting a seated pilot in a cockpit. As you noticed the the figure was unpainted, I am a modeler who like to assemble first then paint so for the pilot I added three basic color all Vallejo sea grey for the flight suit, a grey green for the vest and flat flesh for the skin. Once dry I will go back in with some dark grey washes for the flight suit and some burnt umber wash for the face and blend everything with a little dry brushing to get the highlights and let the shadows do their trick.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

One type of wash I like to use is The Detailer, it can be found here http://www.thedetailer.net/ I like use different types of products to achieve different effects while building models. I wanted to show when the Detailer is applied it is water based and once dry take a wet paper towel or rag and wipe away the wash which the remains will be in the nook and crannies of the figure for instant weathering of the flight suit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

The fit of this kit is excellent! the only place i had to add some putty was the corners of the aft section due to me not clamping it down enough, a little red putty applied and once dry a quick sanding and I will get the canopy on and start laying down the Rangers hull color.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

One more on the cockpit before I glue the canopy on. Took some grey and black Detailer and added some more wash to the cockpit tub, will also add some black around the leg area just to give the allusion of depth. The Detailer dries a semi gloss and I am going to leave it that way as I like the effect of the shadows when the view screens are on.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got the vacuform canopy on and I like to use 5 minute epoxy to attach clear parts such as canopies, it just gives it a stronger bond than say using white glue or a clear glue. A little bit of Tulip was used to shore up the canopy to the hull.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

looks like you could use some window masks for that canopy


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

When I do masking on models I always think of Aztek Dummy masks!:thumbsup:

Started to paint the Ranger, instead of primer I used Model Master gunship for a primer, next is followed by painting the entire model in opaque black. This will make the white pop and help with overall shading/weathering of the Ranger.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

After painting the Ranger entirely in black I then went back in with the Airbrush and Tamiya white and sprayed the top. After that dried overnight I am doing the dreaded masking duty then respray the black areas. For the two seater ranger the black areas will be more a dark grey/almost black color, the kit calls for an off white color I am going to post shade the panels lines on the white areas to achieve that effect/color.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got everything masked off and shot through the airbrush Vallejo black/grey mix for the black parts I think this mix gives it a more realistic appearance than straight black. Next up and once dry I will trace the aft masking template that is provided in the Moebius instructions, mask off that area and apply the white on the aft section.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the aft section masking I used the Template that is provided by Moebius in the instructions. All I did was lay Tamiya tape down and cut out the template with a sharp hobby knife and applied to the model, next will be to airbrush the white on the back of the hull.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With everything masked off the aft section Airbrushing at Vallejo white. When everything is dry I will remove the masks and begin the post shading and weathering.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Removing the masks, I will square up a few areas then proceed to post shade the and weathering.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Shading the Ranger, when I weather or post or preshade I like to use inks. They are airbrush ready semi transparent and I believe give a realistic appearance when applied. For the white part of the hull I used a grey ink and then for black/grey parts I will use a black ink to shade the parts.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Post shading and weathering with Liquitex black ink for the bottom and all the black/grey areas on the Ranger.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For decal application I use Future, it is a high gloss and self leveling. Since there is not to many decals that goes on the Ranger so I brushed on the Future in the spots where the decals are to go. With any model you don't have to spray the entire model for decals just the spots that the decals go will be sufficient.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Kit supplied decals are great, not to thick or thin and a micro drop of setting solution to top it off.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Getting the aft decals on.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Adding the last of the decals that go on both sides of the rear of the Ranger and for some extra detail adding the shuttle tiles with a number 2 pencil around the rangers thrusters area.


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Nicely done. I really like what you've done with the kit and the weathering effects.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

AWESOME !! work indeed :thumbsup:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

After the decals dried I went back in with some light grey and dry brushed along the edges of the black/grey ares to give a minimal worn look and sealed everything with Krylon Krystal clear.

In closing the Moebius Ranger kit is a fantastic model and unique subject matter, This was an absolute joy to build! I highly recommend it to any modeler!

Brad Hair


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## BatToys (Feb 4, 2002)

Those look nice. Is the astronaut figure based on McConagey or Anne Hathaway?


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

psssst....this is when you say "Thanks for the kind words folks".....or something 
like that.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

The figure is just a generic male figure maybe someday I will do a female pilot for it!

I do love the compliments, any way I can help out fellow modelers with tips, tricks and builds or get new modelers introduce into the hobby is the greatest compliment of all!:thumbsup:


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## notype (Sep 5, 2015)

Great build, thanks for sharing. 
Wish Moebius would make other Interstellar themed kits. Mini ranger, lander, 1/144 endurance, tars and case... And even tesseract diorama if they know how to build higher dimension cube!


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