# Need motor help



## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

I have a novak gtb with an orion 13.5 in my slash. I am very new to the brushless thing. I have run it in couple of races and had no problem going 7 minutes and it seemed hot but not overly hot. I ran it last night out side bashing some for under 10 min and it seemed to cut out a couple of times. I had steering but no motor just breifly. I took it inside and the motor was 144 degrees. Is this too hot? Next, is there a way to gear this in order to bash around my house?

Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Jason


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## NovakTwo (Feb 8, 2006)

Lawn Dart said:


> I have a novak gtb with an orion 13.5 in my slash. I am very new to the brushless thing. I have run it in couple of races and had no problem going 7 minutes and it seemed hot but not overly hot. I ran it last night out side bashing some for under 10 min and it seemed to cut out a couple of times. I had steering but no motor just breifly. I took it inside and the motor was 144 degrees. Is this too hot? Next, is there a way to gear this in order to bash around my house?
> 
> Any info will be greatly appreciated.
> Jason


Hi Jason,
You can always email [email protected] directly for assistance with your Novak esc application questions. Motor temps on Novak motors under 175 degrees or so should not be a problem.

Novak BL systems have motor temperature protection circuitry built in, so that when a Novak motor starts over heating, it is shut down to protect the motor from burning up. Orion motors do not offer this protection.


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

I will give that a try. I will double check if it is an orion. I am pretty sure it is and not sure if I mentioned it is a sensored motor.


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

Anyone???


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## King Dork (Nov 23, 2008)

Make sure when you're temping the motor, do so in several spots. The endbell isn't always the warmest spot. I temp mine on the endbell and several spots along the can. Any time I've witnessed Novaks thermalling the motors temped a bit above 200, so make sure you check the temp on the esc as well because maybe there's a problem there and not neccessarily with the motor. Was the motor and esc new or did you buy it used? Also, what kind of connectors are you using on both the battery and motor?


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

I temped the esc but cant remember it. Not hot though. I have the motor soldered direct and low voltage connectors on the batt. Not sure the name but the old powerpole ones. I have raced it a couple of times with no issue but this was just bashing around the yard in cold weather so?

thanks


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## TOM MAR (Jul 24, 2008)

What milli amp & voltage is the battery you are running ?


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

I usually run a 5000 mah venom.


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## TOM MAR (Jul 24, 2008)

I would suggest shortening run time by a few minutes or, contact Novak about your GTB(they make several different models & I don't know which one you have) and see if you need a lipo cutoff module (retailabout $35.00 or less) You never want to run lipo"s dead. Voltage will read fine even on very little charge, but under a load they will drop to dangerious levels. Hope this will help.


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

So I ran this set up on the track last night and here are the results. With a 90t and 23t for around 7-10 minutes the temp hovered around 165, with a 90t and 21t maybe a bit longer run time getting caught up mixing it up and the temp was 175, I then put on a 90t and 25t to see if that would bring the temp down and ended up breaking a hub carrier 3 mins into the run. I dont understand how these guys that have brushless rtrs can run 15 plus mins and never have a problem and it seems as if I am constantly checking temp and so on. Is it possible since this motor has been over 200 degrees that it heats up faster or doesnt have the punch that it should?? There was a guy with a titan in his that down the straight we were the same speed.

I appreciate all the help you all have offered and will appreciate any other suggestions.

I saw where there is a slash race with a 30 main and am just wondering how the hell this is possible???


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## TOM MAR (Jul 24, 2008)

Are they changing batts. half way through the race? Two batts. in parallel? Pack size? That is a good Question. I went back to the 18 pinion for short course racing (30 to 35 feet straights) check & see if the other racers are running the same ratio as you? I run the smaller pinion gear because I can use more throttle in the corners without draining the batteries( less load on motor)A smaller pinion,or a larger should lower motor temp,& extend run time. Also check for any bind, and I've heard a motor that's been way hot (over 200 deg.) can create probs.


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

Well I went up to a 90tx25t and the motor stayed around 130 to 140 but then quite halfway trough the main. Not quite sure yet what happened. One of the guys took a look at the motor and said it was dirty but could definitely see where it had been hot. I am going to try and run it later this week and see.

Thanks for all the info.
J


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## CustomWire (Jan 12, 2009)

Lipo packs are not turning out to be the end all of buyin batterys iam seeing .. 

iam pushin to your lipo .. try a diff lipo if you can .. lipos start out great for 1st 2 weeks or so of racing or bashing if your chargin it say 8 to 12 times a week .. then they see to flatin out .. 

if you find it is the lipo 2 choices here 

1st call venom they good guys ... see what he has to say ... 
or 
2nd i tried this seem to help ... balnce the lipo at 500 mah at .5 amps then charge at full setting 5000 mah at 5amps and see how that helps worked for me on a lipo ..


? for novaktwo if you can please 

you stated this in your post
Novak BL systems have motor temperature protection circuitry built in, so that when a Novak motor starts over heating, it is shut down to protect the motor from burning up. Orion motors do not offer this protection.

i was told by your own folks that the GTB doesnt have motor temp cut off .. that the GTX does .. if this is true then he doesnt have Motor temp cut off .. the GTB has ESC temp cut off only .. is this true ?? or was i givin wrong info form your company ?? or i miss understood what was told me ? i dont know of a GTX esc so iam a bit lost here ..


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## NovakTwo (Feb 8, 2006)

CustomWire said:


> .......
> ? for novaktwo if you can please
> 
> you stated this in your post
> ...


You are correct. 

Somewhere along the way, we eliminated the motor temp cut-off circuitry from the GTB's. I was woefully misinformed (not to mention surprised ) when I recently learned of this change, just days ago. 

Over time, since the GTB is a racing controller, racers complained bitterly when their N motors shut off. So at first, we raised the cut-off temp and then eliminated it completely. We had a "failure to communicate", at least, with me! OR...

A little knowledge is a dangerous thing!


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## Lawn Dart (Oct 23, 2008)

I had a suggestion from a buddy yesterday that the fact that the motor will only work if I turn it to the right pole (if it lands on the other 2 the motor will not go) His comment was that it may be the sensor wire from the motor to esc. I am going to try another wire tonight and see.


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## CustomWire (Jan 12, 2009)

NovakTwo said:


> You are correct.
> 
> Somewhere along the way, we eliminated the motor temp cut-off circuitry from the GTB's. I was woefully misinformed (not to mention surprised ) when I recently learned of this change, just days ago.
> 
> ...


ok good deal wasnt sure .. but i say this lol to me if they are heating up that hot lil over geared maybe .. lol cough choke but anyways maybe a idea maybe have a public type say a SPORT GTB name it GTS and a racing version named GTR or GTBS and GTBR i myself tho i race not heavy just local EDM.. i would like to have the temp cut off would have saved me a headache lol .. 

and set the temp to say for sport 155 to say 165 since novak site says 170 max .. and racing no temp cut off ..
i myself try to keep the temp after i learned down in the 110 to 125 area .. 

but thank you you guys keep up the great work .. awsome job


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