# New to modeling - what's in your toolbox?



## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

I used to build models as a kid, however I didn't get "serious" about it it - mostly used rattle cans and off the shelf paints. With the advent of the Round2 release of the TOS 1:350 Enterprise, I have decided to get back into modeling, however I want to do this one justice as it's a dream kit.

So, this leads me to what are some of the "essential" items to have in order to do this right?

I was thinking of getting Xuron's TK3200 kit, which comes with the 175ET Professional Sprue Cutter, 9180ET - Professional Photo Etch Scissor, and 450 - Tweezer-Nose Pliers.

Also, a fairly budget conscious air compressor\airbrush, like the Iwata Ninja Jet Air Compressor.

What are some other essential items?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Several types of glue and 2part epoxies.
Files and sandpaper.
Various brushes and paints along with bottles and dishes to mix them in.
Ventilation.
I won't paint these days without a respirator.
Magnifying glasses.
Magnets are handy.
Boxes and containers to hold it all.
Lots of light.
Desk space. You're gonna need it.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

In 40 years of modeling I have seen, bought, and used a ton of tools. However, I really only use a few basics regularly. I do believe in buying a good quality tool even if its something you aren't going to use a lot. You don't want to kludge up a big project because you bought an $8 tool versus a $15 one... 


My preferred sprue cutters are two Tamiya products. This one is good 95% of the time. It is extremely sharp and you can cut off tiny parts like tank track links leaving minimal clean up on the part.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVU36&P=7

However, this cutter is a bit different and slightly sharper. I think the above cutter will trim closer, however, even if its slightly less sharp.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVU67&P=7

You can shop around for a good price. I think Lucky from Hong Kong is about half the US price.

I do like the Xuron photo etch shears. I hear this one is the best, at least from Xuron

http://xuron.com/index.php/main/consumer_products/4/80

I do not use that particular one, as I have an older version which works quite well for me. If you have to go out and buy one, you might as well get the one above. It has longer blades and I can see it being very useful.

For cutting I use a good old X-Acto (or Pro Edge or Excell) knife with #11 blades. Buy several as you can use older blades for more coarse applications while having a nice fresh blade/knife combo for precise work.

Can't go wrong with a Zona pin vise. The nice thing with this one is that it has two collets and will hold most drill bit sizes. Zona, X-Acto, Mascot, etc. make appropriate bits. You can get bits in sets or individually. 

http://www.zonatool.net/37-145.html

You might as well buy a Zona saw while you are at it. I use this one a lot... they make quite a few different ones. 

http://www.zonatool.net/35-050.html

I like this type of tweezer myself. I think I have essentially the same style made by Squadron. Also, you can find a lot of these at large Flea Markets. usually those are made in Pakistan or India and are pretty cheap but not bad quality for, say $2 each.

http://www.zonatool.net/37-547.html

I currently use a Ninja compressor. I bought this combo a couple years ago (it has gone up in price $30 since then). Its very good...

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/iwrecraisywi.html

My only "complaint" with the compressor itself is that while it has a pressure regulator, it does not have a gauge so you have to judge the pressure by feel. I got the hang of it fast, though. I think you can also fit a needle type gauge. The Revolution is a nice brush too. I also use a Grex brush on this compressor.

A Dremel rotary tool is useful if you work with resin or metal a lot. It is useful for plastic models too but there is not much you can't do with a hand saw, knife or file either. A variable speed tool is most useful 

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=3000

I have essentially that same model but the one that was sold 30 years ago. I haven't even had to replace the motor brushes yet. I also use one of the small battery powered Mini Mite tools. 

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=7300

They are "okay" but don't have much torque for more heavy duty work and the two speed control is a bit coarse to use on plastic. It is handy, though. Beware of the cheap Harbor Freight type versions... the shafts are not centered well and the whole thing vibrates and shakes.

A good file set is handy. Xacto, Mascot, etc. all make good ones. I have some very fine X-Acto Jewelers files but I do not know if they still offer them.

http://www.xacto.com/products/cutti...sories/tools-accessories/Needle-File-Set.aspx


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

Thanks guys - I'll definitely start compiling a list based on your suggestions. 

djnick66 - thanks for all the links, I'm going through them now.

model man - great point about the ventilation - I've got an organic vapors respirator which I use whenever I paint, unless it's zero VOC stuff. And on a separate note - thanks for those great TOS Enterprise reviews!

Anyone else have any more suggestions? How about a good source for information on how to airbrush?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If you want to do some indoor airbrushing, buy a Pace spray booth. They come pretty much ready to go and are very well made. Yes you can make one yourself but I doubt the average person could make one as nice as the Pace booths without some effort and cost. They are all metal and come pre assembled. 

http://www.pacepaintbooths.com/pace/


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## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

I'd offer these comments and suggestions:

1. Cement/glue has come a long way since we were kids using Testors tube glue. I rarely use it anymore because there are way better cements available which are easier to use and create less mess.

Liquid cement- I like Tamiya regular as well as Extra thin. The regular takes long to set up so you have a little extra working time. The extra thin version dries very quickly and I like it better for small parts. A better more controllable way to go is to use liquid cement. I'm most familiar with Tamiya's but other's I've heard mentioned are Tenax7R and Plastruct liquid cement. A key feature to liquid cements is that they don't have any filler like tube glue. The advantage is that you will get a clean strong bond that minimizes the need to use putty resulting in less seam work.

Super-Glue - Cyanoacrylate adhesives have come a long way and they make a really strong bond. They now come in different thicknesses for different applications. Accelerators reduce the wait time for the adhesive to cure.

Aves Apoxy - If you do need a filler for seams this product works great. It adheres well, has exceptional sanding properties and is hard enough to drill and tap if needed.

2.Consider starting with an easy model to practice/refresh your modeling chops before tackling the 1:350 TOS Enterprise. I've heard a couple of horror stories recently about people getting back into the hobby and building the new Big E ship with disastrous results. Maybe the tried and true AMT Enterprise ship which is readily available? Here's the Tholian web version: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXARMD&P=7

Welcome back to the hobby!

Regards,
Matt


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## BKSinAZ (Jun 5, 2009)

A hammer


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Unless you've used an airbrush in the past I would reccomend something like the Testors Aztek single action airbrush for beginners. And do a few more simple builds before trying to tackle the big PL/R2 E, oh and welcome to the boards!!!!:wave::wave:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

When it comes to airbrushes there are a couple trains of thought. One is to start cheap, get the hang of it, and then move up to something better. 

My philosophy is to get a half way decent brush once and not have to spend more money in the future. Also a better brush works vastly better than the cheap ones. Much of the stuff you see done here like detail work, figures, weathering, etc. really can't be done with the cheap brushes, or can't be done easily. 

I personally do not like the Testors/Aztek brushes at all and they are not particularly inexpensive. You can get a Paasche H or Iwata Neo for about the same price as the lower end Testors stuff. Or, if you get the Ninja compressor combo I linked to above, you are basically getting the airbrush for $20. The Ninja by itself can go for $200 so a combo with brush for $219 is a steal.


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## MightyMax (Jan 21, 2000)

I will add to what has been said already that you need clamps. Lots of different sizes.

I have the following to clamp with

Berna Clamps
old fashioned C clamps but the small hobby sized ones
assorted sizes of Bulldog clips
spring loaded wooden clothes pins.

Also files.
I have both small hobby files in many shapes. 
Also a good old Revlon type metal nail file. I find this indesposable to me.

Also did anyone mention Flex-I files? You may not think you need these but trust me once you need to sand a half round surface like a wing leading edge you will know you spent your money wisely.

Max Bryant


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Sanding drives me crazy and, as a result, my models were NEVER as well finished as I liked...until I bought a Micro Power Sander. It isn't the cheapest tool in my arsenal by a long shot, but it is, without a doubt, the one that made the single biggest improvement in the quality of the models I turned out. It made a tedious chore not only bearable, but almost fun!

For round surfaces, however, I use a Flex-i-file. Nothing better for sanding a TOS nacelle!


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

Fozzie said:


> Sanding drives me crazy and, as a result, my models were NEVER as well finished as I liked...until I bought a Micro Power Sander. It isn't the cheapest tool in my arsenal by a long shot, but it is, without a doubt, the one that made the single biggest improvement in the quality of the models I turned out. It made a tedious chore not only bearable, but almost fun!
> 
> For round surfaces, however, I use a Flex-i-file. Nothing better for sanding a TOS nacelle!


How is the speed on that sander? Does it chew through styrene? I can see where the sanding pads could get expensive.


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

I can't believe none of you have included this in your lists.


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

Fozzie said:


> Micro Power Sander


I am all about the power tools - that and the flex i file are definitely getting purchased!

And Dr Brad - I've got those covered too - Sam's Wholesale Club size!


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Dr. Brad said:


> I can't believe none of you have included this in your lists.


Maybe someone should post a tutorial on using super glue as temporary stitches for those run away hobby knife incidents.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

spawndude said:


> How is the speed on that sander? Does it chew through styrene? I can see where the sanding pads could get expensive.


Very manageable. It uses a short stroke reciprocating motion that, coupled with the different shaped heads, gives you a lot of control. Not nearly as aggressive as a Dremel. I get excellent results with it.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Quite few different files, plenty of rubber bands, a supply of replacement knife blades, a small Dremel-type machine, clothes pegs, old style tube glue and also a more modern glue bottle with the long dripper nozzle, an Xacto saw, and maybe a few more things.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Personally I would never use an electric sander on a plastic kit (I use a Skil orbital one on big resin ones). But you can't go wrong with a set of wet n dry sand paper.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

I'm just starting to get back into modeling. I've followed some of the recommendations in this thread and because I'm a gadget person adding a "few" more things to play with. I just bought a compressor with a tank from TCP Global. I have a old Badger 350 external single action and a Teators Aztek A4709 kit. People seem to have a love it or hate it position on this airbrush. I haven't used it yet. I got it at a garage sale brand new for $50 bucks!

I do plan on getting another airbrush or two, but I'm not sure which to get. I don't want to spend a lot of money. The Badger has done a decent job of applying primer and base coats in the past. I would like a little better single action siphon feed for that and a double action gravity feed for finer work.


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