# Polishing Slotcar Bodies



## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

I read an article about protyping bodies and it mentioned polishing the body. Does anybody know what I can use to polish a slotcar body that won't harm the plastic and still get a good finish?


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## ScottD961 (Jan 31, 2008)

I use the original Turtle wax with an old t - shirt and q tips for the hard to reach places and have had great success. all of my old t jets look like glass


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

*Polishing is simple...*

sjracer,

To polish a body, first you go to the store and pick up some of the nice items found in the cosmetics section that are used to polish fingernails. They come in many textures and sizes. I have done this with several bodies and the results are quite literally as good a new. You can't tell the difference.

Then when you are done, you can wax the body if you like.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

sjracer said:


> I read an article about protyping bodies and it mentioned polishing the body. Does anybody know what I can use to polish a slotcar body that won't harm the plastic and still get a good finish?


Depends on the damage/scratching. 

There's a gajillion types of polish out there. At some point they dont cut the mustard and you have to go a little deeper and sand away imperfections piror to polishing. Selecting the right starting point is half the battle to getting a show room shine.

Can you provide pics?


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## medic57 (Mar 3, 2008)

I don't wax my real car, I sure as hell ain't waxing my slot cars.:woohoo:


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

I just use a clear coat. What are you guys painting with that you have to wax over? Like medic posted, I don't even wax my 1:1 car anymore.  rr


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

Sorry I can't provide pictures. I'm not a techie, I don't have a digital camera and don't know how to use one. What I'm attempting to do is the following. A while back I picked up a broken six wheel elf ( a front wheel was off) at a car show in Ft Washington, PA. Of course, I got a good price on it. Now after lookinf at Bob Beers' book I decided to take the other wheels off cut off the front and grind it down with my dremel and use the chassis wheels. Well I got a little anxious and made a couple of mistakes. The weld looked more like crazy glue and as I attempted to blend it in it is when I made my mistake I tried to use the dremel on my lowest setting, disaster. Although, the car looked great... it was just scratched up.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I use Future floor wax and have never had a problem.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

*Quick Shine*

For a quick shine, try a little Pledge furniture polish. Give your car, if dirty, a quick soap & water bath with a toothbrush to get out dirt in the body lines. Dry it off and put a little Pledge on the body with a Q-Tip or Kleenex, then rub it off with a clean Kleenex. Leaves a deep shine. For scratches you may have to use a plastic polish such as Nova, even do some water sanding and buffing. Everyone has their own method, so experiment on a junker body, to see which works for you...RM

Will the Future fill in a scratch and build the scratch up???


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## SplitPoster (May 16, 2006)

Depending on the type of plastic,you have more options. If you have deeper scoring or scratches, you can use the Testor's 3502 plastic cement - the stuff of Bill Hall's "goop", and for making material for repairs in Mike Vitale's book. It melts the plastic, which quickly firms back up - but it can be molded and smoothed like bondo while soft. You can "paint" in on a surface and give it a bit of help to smooth out really rough spots. With a little work it will easily fill in the troughs. I have used it successfully to smooth out score marks where sanding would have removed so much material that the profile of the car would be changed.

Second, you can find Micromesh at hobby or woodworking shops-cheaper in woodworking shops. It is like an emory cloth in 3000 to 12000 grit- and you can use it wet or dry. The idea is to start rough and work your way smooth going to the highest number - on t jets 12000 is overkill, but at that grit it designed to polish paint, not remove it. On top of the finished product wipe on a light coat of wax with a polishing cloth and you will have a permanent killer gloss that is on the surface of the car, not dependent on anything oil, silicone or clearcoat based. Nothing wrong with clear coat, but you can get a shine on the original surface instead of covering the flaws over. 

Good luck


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

LDThomas said:


> sjracer,
> ...nice items found in the cosmetics section that are used to polish fingernails. They come in many textures and sizes...


 I agree. In the beauty section of a Dollar Tree (I think), I spotted a thing like an oversized emery board, but made of stiff thin foam. It had four different grades of abrasive for filing, smoothing, polishing, and buffing fingernails - or plastic.

I put it to work on a Tjet Alfa racer that somebody had tried to scrape the racing numbers and roundels off. After taking off the printing with solvent, I lightly polished the area with each of the abrasive segments from coarse to fine in turn, using each to take out the scratches from the previous one. After a couple of run-throughs on each spot, the original scratches were gone, and I was surprised how high a shine I had - like a new car. (And my nails looked great, too).

A fine tool for a buck. Buy several.

-- D


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Polishing*

S'OK sjr I'll fly blind.

First off which type of Elf deco does it have? Tampos or the beer box paper stickers? ANY liquid be it water, wax, or rubbing compound will kill the beerbox paper stickers quicker than you can say, "Aw rat farts!" They'll walk right off their backing. If thats what I have I use the wet and dry paper dry only. You'lll use a little more as it will load up cuz your not rinsing it. Basically you've got to tip toe around the stickers unless you have replacements.

For any bad dremel knicks ya might have to go as low as 320 grit wet and dry. 600 is my usual starting point for major carnage. See how it goes and back up if you dont get a good cut. Some times it helps to lightly draw file the area first if you can get at it.

For minor playwear 1200 is a good start for some of the normal scratching but 1500 is a player as well if there are no deep nicks or diggies and just scuffing is present.

My end game is to get the damaged areas prepped in 2000 grit. At that point coarser compound is not necessary and one can go right away with medium compound. IMHO the cotton flappers for the dremel work best. I do not reccomend the pressed wool units which are also available. They run hot and can scorch styrene with the slightest mistake. The cotton flappers are very user friendly and run cooler on the plastic. Personally I have a couple laying around that are dedicated to only one grade of compound. No reason you cant rinse one out, but ya gotta wash it thoroughly to remove the traces of the previous grit.

For a tip toe car apply the compound lightly with a q tip or what have you and let it dry/haze up ya dont wanna slob on the stickers! Then smear a little on the flapper wheel and spin it up to remove the excess. I've got an old ebay box that I stick the head into when I wing it up. Then try a test burn on a chunk of scrap to acquire the feel if you've never done it. 

If ya got a hi-speed dremel turn it all the way down! If you've got a putt putt run it at medium speed. Begin by lightly touching the pad to the compounded body. Keep an eye on your edges and the rotation of the pad so ya dont snag an edge and fling the body across the room....very important LOL! In the broader open areas one can lean on it a bit but for the detail and snaggy nooks and crannies apply light pressure and get off quickly....zing, off. zing, off. zing, off. zing, off. Never lean on it when you are not out in the open body areas! 

So you've worked your way all around the body and you'll have some clods an globbs accumulated. I like to wash the globs off or spot clean them with a q-tip if ya cant hose the body down. Then I buzz around lightly without adding additional compound looking for missed areas. Try and keep your final go around in a north to south direction. Cross hatching medium compound will show in the finished product.

After a thorough cleaning of the body to remove all traces of the medium compound; I like to use Megweier's # 9 scratch and swirl remover. Same procedure as above. Work your way around carefully. For a tip toe car I like to mop the remnant swirl remover with a damp squirrel hair brush...less scratching than a q-tip! Regular cars just get hosed and then mopped with the brush to clean out any crud in the seams. For a final buff I have a favorite cotton t-shirt that only see styrene. 

Takes 15 to 30 minutes to do one right...takes one second to burn an edge or detail.

Probablly more than ya wanted to know but that's how I bring the pit kit refugees back to the showroom.


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

Thanks Bill,


My main concern was just reattaching the nose, filling in any existing gaps that might be present and then polishing it so it looked original. I always struggle hunting for sandpapre the highest I was ever able to find was a 600 grit frm Home Depot, any suggestions where I could find the better sandpaper? One other thing since I'm going to put so much time and efffort into this project is there any way I can improve the elf so it isn't so fragile and I would be able to remove the body without fear of breaking it?


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

> Will the Future fill in a scratch and build the scratch up???


Probably not. It is relatively thin. I didn't realize you were doing major restoration. Future is good for the finishing touches if you want a clear coat that is very easy to apply and cleanup after and relatively durable.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Plastic Explosives: This may take a while*

Sandpaper is readily available at most auto parts stores. Auto paint stores too. I buy it by the brick but they have smaller quantities available.

Sight unseen I'm gonna guess your 'sploded Elf cant be repaired with the basic cement weld and blend technique. You'll need to make a batch of goop from a crusty AFX blue Daytona. Strip or sand the paint off til it's all blue and dice it up into chips with some *****, or just use the unpainted parts. Dump the chips into an empty testors 3502 bottle and cover with just enough testors to cover the chips. Next day you'll have liquid repair plastic.

The plastic can be used as is (thick) for heavy filling; or thinned down (with more testors) to glaze and blend repairs. Put a blob on a small mirror and add liquid til ya get what ya need. I use both the applicator brush from the testors bottle and fine tipped artists brushes. Just depends on whats required. Just paint it on and feather it out. Add solvent right to the body if it gets to sticky and clods up.

For re-bonding breaks I like to have it fairly thin but still viscous. Whatever squeezes out of the breaks should be damp brushed off. Let it setup for a coupla days. It'll shrink a bit so you'll have to dress/skim the repaired areas.

Once you have all the areas proud you can begin rough profiling the areas.

All Styrene bodies can be rejuvenated buy either brushing or spraying the testors to the underside. The plastic is porous and will wick the solvent through and through. Takes two or three applications to get the body pliable again. Works everytime.

To further assist the Elf body for "no stress removals" you can also take a few thousandths off the hanger cleats. They are rather deep/thick so they require too much pull to free them from the chassis.

Below is a few pics of "Coaches Beer Wagon". The project goal was to re-inforce the 6 wheeler to withstand normal track usage. Our buddy Coach is an expert in plastic explosives and demolition. He loves to hate them LOL! Joez sent me the NOS body and I busted it in two places with in five minutes. Had to fix it before I could fix it.

The dangling front wheel boxes, spoiler and side pods were all bonded with a continuous skirt. Flimsy rear deck was gusseted from below. Rear wing recieved a fill/gusset on the backside. The wimpy front spoiler which is prone to nicks and cracks recieved a backfill and to tie the skirt modifications together.

It should be noted that the pick ups required beveling on the outside of the hanger window for fit. Naturally it all adds gross tonnage....but thats the trade off.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

If your going to repaint it, sometimes a lighter will smooth off small imperfections. I use plasticote engine enamel, or rustolium industial. After the paint dries, if it still looks dull, you can always get a great shine with some Black Magic tire wet. Just spray, and admire. From a distance. I mean, don't pick it up. Did you say this body was going on a Super G+, or an SRT?

Rich :freak:


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

Bill,


I noticed the metal clip on the inside of the body, now is this being used to strengthen the sides, if so how do you suggest I attach it? Or is it the testors goop mixture and if so is it applied only to the corners of he middle section? I don't have an extra elf so I was wondering will grinding down the wheels be enough?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Naw the mag retainer just popped off and stayed right there as you see it during one of the wrasslin' matches to get the body off. It's supposed to stay with the chassis but didnt want to on that day.

Left it that way to prevent sagging or wandering of the side pod repairs. 

The entire under side of coach's beer wagon has been coated ...stem to stern.

I doubt there will be enough material from the 4 wheel boxes to do a complete re-skim of the entire car and execute the necessary repairs....but then again with no pics ....welll you know.

Ya might pull it off, Still keep yer eyes peeled for a crapppy blue daytona to roll by on the bay ....then you'll have plenty!


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

How about a blue police van with a broken post? It seems to match?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

As long as it is AFX plastic it will be fine. 

Cleanliness is the most important part. The idea is to keep foriegn objects from becoming inclusions in your work.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

*Beauty Products - Update*



Dslot said:


> In the beauty section of a Dollar Tree (I think), I spotted a thing like an oversized emery board, but made of stiff thin foam. It had four different grades of abrasive for filing, smoothing, polishing, and buffing fingernails - or plastic ...
> A fine tool for a buck. Buy several.


*UPDATE -* The current 4-way buffer in Dollar Tree is not as good as the one I bought earlier. It's made by *California Nails*; it has a coarser final grit and doesn't get any better than a dull shine.

My original 4-way buffer was made by *Onyx*, and polishes to a high shine. Maybe I got it somewhere else - Wal Mart, or Target. 

I also have a hobbyshop product called a *Triple Grit Polisher-Finisher* (No. 3210) by *Flex-i-File*. It is narrower and more flexible than the nail-care boards. With a little saliva for lubricant, it will polish to a near-high shine (buffing with cloth afterward finishes the job). Unfortunately there are no hobby shop nearby, so I usually have to make do with what I can find in other stores.


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