# Moebius Robot has arrived!!



## psquinn (Feb 23, 2009)

Received the new Moebius robot today and went to work. A build right out of the box. A fantastic kit!! Again Moebius has created a Masterpeice. The best thing is it is the perfect size with the Sci-fi Metropolis figures. Now my Dr. Smith has a new pal!!


----------



## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Looks great, I to want it for my Sci-fi Metropolis figures. I cant wait to start mine.


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Wow! That was a quick build since it was just released. Nice job!


----------



## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Man that is so cool!
You did an excellent job on the bubble headed booby.

I have a few of those Sci Fi Metro LIS figures myself, And glad to see it is in the exact scale to display beside.

It looks like the Robots torso can rotate for various poses? Mr. psquinn, Brilliant build and attention to detail..And a big Thank you to MOEBIUS for releasing this kit!!


----------



## jeffking45 (Aug 31, 2008)

Look slick. Need better focus.


----------



## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

did you prime before you painted? would love details on the brands of paint you used, colors, etc. nice job.


----------



## psquinn (Feb 23, 2009)

*Robot colors*

This was a dream kit to put together!! I used good old fashioned testors paint. Not much else available here in the desert. Body was silver metallic 1246, the claw cuffs are Model Master FS36081 Euro 1 Gray, treds and just flat black. Did not touch the arms ao legs, they seemed perfect just the way they are. Claws are gloss red and the details are basic testor paint colors. Blue, yellow, red, green, white. Did not prime just careful spraying. Lucky outside weather very dry and warm so paint dried beautifully. Next one I will fill the tred bases and add electronics. A testiment to Moebius what a beautiful kit this is with just a build out of the box. Can't wait to see what some of the real experts come up with on this site!! I am no expert by any means but I am really pleased with the results!! Thank you Moebius for anothe dream come true!!


----------



## psquinn (Feb 23, 2009)

*Robot colors*

This was a dream kit to put together!! I used good old fashioned testors paint. Not much else available here in the desert. Body was silver metallic 1246, the claw cuffs are Model Master FS36081 Euro 1 Gray, treds and just flat black. Did not touch the arms and legs, they seemed perfect just the way they are. Claws are gloss red and the details are basic testor paint colors. Blue, yellow, red, green, white. Did not prime just careful spraying. Lucky outside weather very dry and warm so paint dried beautifully. Next one I will fill the tred bases and add electronics. A testiment to Moebius what a beautiful kit this is with just a build out of the box. Can't wait to see what some of the real experts come up with on this site!! I am no expert by any means but I am really pleased with the results!! Thank you Moebius for anothe dream come true!!


----------



## psquinn (Feb 23, 2009)

*Robot colors*

This was a dream kit to put together!! I used good old fashioned testors paint. Not much else available here in the desert. Body was silver metallic 1246, the claw cuffs are Model Master FS36081 Euro 1 Gray, treds are just flat black. Did not touch the arms and legs, they seemed perfect just the way they are. Claws are gloss red and the details are basic testor paint colors. Blue, yellow, red, green, white. Did not prime just careful spraying. Lucky outside weather very dry and warm so paint dried beautifully. Next one I will fill the tred bases and add electronics. A testiment to Moebius what a beautiful kit this is with just a build out of the box. Can't wait to see what some of the real experts come up with on this site!! I am no expert by any means but I am really pleased with the results!! Thank you Moebius for anothe dream come true!!


----------



## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

I noticed the instructions said we might want to put 'texture' on the Robot's torso. Is anyone planning to do that, and if so, how?

Jeff
"Sorry, I was just clearing my tapes"


----------



## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

NTRPRZ said:


> I noticed the instructions said we might want to put 'texture' on the Robot's torso. Is anyone planning to do that, and if so, how?
> 
> Jeff
> "Sorry, I was just clearing my tapes"


I was going to experiment with brushing on the silver paint and dabbing it with a paper towel to get the proper textured look of the actual costume.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

I think Rustoleum's Brushed metallic nickle will be a perfect match for the robot


----------



## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Apply a light second coat with a toothbrush in splatter mode.


----------



## gaetan (Apr 6, 2005)

Hello 

Could somebody please tell me how tall is the B-9 model ?

Gaétan


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Y3a said:


> Apply a light second coat with a toothbrush in splatter mode.


Any chance of describing this technique in more detail? I think I know what you mean, but just want to be sure.


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

gaetan said:


> Hello
> 
> Could somebody please tell me how tall is the B-9 model ?
> 
> Gaétan


Roughly 13 inches.


----------



## gaetan (Apr 6, 2005)

Thanks Moderbuilderzero,

Looks like it will fit perfectly with my X-PLUS 1/6 Robby,


YESSSS !!!

Gaétan


----------



## Arkons (Jan 8, 2013)

Just under 13 inches.


----------



## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

You might be able to use some texture paint from Citadel. They are designed primarily for detailing the bases on miniature figures. They are thick and have a sandy quality to them. You would have to brush it on though. 

The original robot's torso was quite heavily textured. The guy that built the tread section I have textured it and it's very rough to the touch.


----------



## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

I've had a chance to take a quick look at the kit and I like what I see. So far my major complaint is that the ring on the Robot's lower half is in two parts to that it can rotate. That creates a nasty seam. I prefer the way the Aurora kit engineered this section.


----------



## Lee Staton (May 13, 2000)

When I just test fit those two parts together the seam disappears! I don't think this will be that much of an issue.


----------



## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*where have I been*

I missed the release all together, off to the local hobby shop tommarow,:hat:


----------



## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

I've tried to abandon my usual slowpoke ways and am working on the Robot. As noted above, I like what they've got so far. One thing I have done is to put a backing behind the open spaced on the treads. If you don't you can see emptiness inside!


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The best way to add texure is to get a jar of Tamiya grey or white liquid surface primer. It is basically a liquid putty, akin to Gunze's famous Mr. Surfacer.

Using an old paint brush, just stipple the stuff onto the model. It is thick and you can work it into a texture with the brush as it sets up. If you don't like it, use some Tamiya plastic safe lacquer thinner to wipe it off. I use this method all of the time to add a cast texture to parts of armor models. the nice thing is too is that you have total control over it. You arent spraying or splattering anything all over.


----------



## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

Lee Staton said:


> When I just test fit those two parts together the seam disappears! I don't think this will be that much of an issue.


Lee -- are you painting the legs & arms? if so, how are you priming the vinyl? i would be much obliged if you filled me in on the exact brand of primer and paint you are using...i recall you gave me some good advice on this when i painted my Masudaya Robot so many years ago, but the info has left my brain.

i have a nice rattle can of Tamaya for the legs/arms, but I figure if i am to use it, i need to find some kind of vinyl primer and have no idea where to get such paint.

ted


----------



## Lee Staton (May 13, 2000)

Hi Ted! 

For the arms and legs I plan on using acrylic hobby paint. I am not sure how enamel or lacquer would react. Acrylic is safe, and a little flexible on vinyl parts. I always paint vinyl with acrylics.

Tamiya makes nice acrylic paint in bottles in a color that should be perfect, but their rattle can spray paint is lacquer. I would hesitate to use it, as lacquer over acrylic can sometimes result in an unwanted crackle effect.

Hope this helps!

Lee


----------



## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

Lee --

Thanks...makes perfect sense. Do you plan to light yours up?

t


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

There is really no need to worry about Tamiya spray lacquer over their acrylic paint because you are going to paint the main color (silver) first. its not like you will paint the lights blue and red with jar paint and then paint the silver. Tamiya spray seems to be ok over their acrylic paint also. Ive used their clear gloss spray over acrylic with no problems. 

For painting the vinyl parts, i would use Tamiyas PC sprays or jar paints that are made to stick to rubbery lexan RC car bodies. it works good on model tank treads too.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Lee Staton said:


> Hi Ted!
> Tamiya makes nice acrylic paint in bottles in a color that should be perfect...
> 
> Lee


 


Would that be the Panzer Grey? That's the one I'm seriously considering because I want a "flat" finish, while the vinyl looks very "toy-like". However, I'm concerned that Panzer Grey might be too dark.


----------



## Lee Staton (May 13, 2000)

djnick66: Use it at your own risk. I don't doubt at all that you've had success, but such a combination ruined a Robocop model of mine and crackled the finish!

Seaview: I was just at the hobby shop the other day and saw several candidates in the Tamiya paints, but haven't bought one yet.

Ted: I am not lighting mine. The light kits, while well worth it, are too pricey for me right now. This is a pretty quick build if one doesn't overbuild it. Not a lot of masking or tricky work needed. So mine will be essentially out of box. 

If I can get time in my shop, that is! I envy you guys making progress!
I can't wait to see and hear the ones that are getting the full treatment!

Lee


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Ive been using Tamiya's lacquers for about the 15 years or so they have been available in the US with no problems. But again, you wont be spraying the silver color over an acrylic on the Robot unless you paint in a real odd manner. I would spray the body first then paint any details. As usual, if in doubt, TEST

This is the Aurora robot in Tamiya silver spray paint with German Grey for the arms and legs. 

Tamiya paints do not brush well and I would recommend getting some of their newish retarder/flow agent if you are going to go that route. Also, if you want the grey to be really flat, add in a tiny bit of Flat Base. 








[/URL][/IMG]








[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## LGFugate (Sep 11, 2000)

I've been checking out some Lost in Space videos, and I cannot discern any kind of texture in the Robots' torso. Even in closeups it appears to be a smooth flat aluminum color. I did notice a rough texture on the non-hero costume's torso, and in some shots ("Junkyard in Space", where the Robot is hanging upside down from a magnetic crane. It even has a large darker oval (patch?) on it's back.)

Has anyone else seen this texture on the hero costume before?

Larry


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

outstanding I can't wait to get 2 of these,


----------



## actias (May 19, 2003)

Yes the actual suit had a texture on it. Here's a screenshot!


----------



## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

This is a great model I don't even have it glued together yet it's a perfect fit


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

WOW, is that how it comes out of the box with those colored lights & gray legs & arms or did you paint it ?


----------



## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

bert model maker said:


> WOW, is that how it comes out of the box with those colored lights & gray legs & arms or did you paint it ?


No I painted all, chest buttons, legs and all. I have to still glue all together it is just stacked on each other. A testament to Moebius and the fit of the molds perfect. It has been a lot of fun. The next one will have lights.


----------



## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Her is another pic still need to do some touch up sorry don't know why my iPhone pics come out sideways


----------



## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Last one


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Ok I see how you did that. are the lights clear or did you paint them with a clear paint ?


----------



## B-9 (Jun 8, 2009)

scifimodelfan said:


> Her is another pic still need to do some touch up sorry don't know why my iPhone pics come out sideways


I should have painted the buttons on mine like this - it looks just like the full size one. Nice job!


----------



## Zathros (Dec 21, 2000)

*I pre-ordered and got 2 of them..I am also going to build it straight out of the box. no electronics, as I will not spend the kind of money that is asked for for those electronics kits,and to me its a model..electronics to me, makes it kind of "toylike". However, if I wish to do electronics in the future, I will do my own. it ain't rocket science, and its by far much cheaper.

Z *


----------



## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

scifimodelfan said:


> Her is another pic still need to do some touch up sorry don't know why my iPhone pics come out sideways


how'd you do the texture on the torso?
it looks great


----------



## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

B-9 said:


> I should have painted the buttons on mine like this - it looks just like the full size one. Nice job!


That funny because I love the way your robot turned out and thought of painting the buttons on mine as you did. By the way, love love love the full size robot. A dream of mine at 48 here to ever have one.


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

You CAN buy a full size robot but around $27,000 is pretty pricey but worth it. sci fi metropolis offers a half scale B-9 for about $7,000. and now a robby the robot KIT in half scale. where were these when we were younger ?


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

bert model maker said:


> sci fi metropolis offers a half scale B-9 for about $7,000.


I never knew of anyone actually getting one, I wanted to buy one but after the 24" J-2 I never got, I couldn't pull the trigger. Last I saw it was $9000.


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

I don't know whats going on with SFM but I never get replies to emails & I still want a Jupiter 2 from them. another robot source for full size B-9s and robbies is from a guy named FRED BARTON he builds those as well as other movie robots. robby comes in 3 different builds from expensive to VERY expensive, but if you got the dough, he has a robot made just for you.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Lee Staton said:


> Seaview: I was just at the hobby shop the other day and saw several candidates in the Tamiya paints, but haven't bought one yet.
> 
> Lee


 

I found a perfect match with a bottle of "Tamiya Dark Grey" for the vinyl arms, legs and neck. :hat: I hope I'm able to locate some "opaque white paint" for the chest lights at a local art supply store, because I certainly couldn't find any tamiya or testors or floquil paints filling that description.


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Seaview, would simply frosting the clear parts give the effect needed? Just curious.

MBZ


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Too late to tell, MBZ; I already found the paint and just got done painting the parts (eyes and chest lights) a few minutes ago. They look nice, too! :thumbsup:


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

What paint, may I ask, Seaview?


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Any white paint is opaque. Of course white can be somewhat thin so it may take a couple of coats. You won't find a jar of white that says "opaque white". Just use your favorite brand of flat or gloss white. 

Only your clear colors are transparent/translucent.


----------



## Lemmy (Jun 27, 2010)

My B-9 arrived, and I couldn't be happier. Moebius folks, I salute you!


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> What paint, may I ask, Seaview?


 

It's called "Iridescent Pearl" and is used by picture painters; I found it at a local Arts & Crafts shop.


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Thanks Seaview. Let me know how it works, please.

MBZ


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Thanks Seaview. Let me know how it works, please.
> 
> MBZ


 
I'll be happy to; it should be dry by the time I get home later. :wave:


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Anyone have detail photos of the claw clamps on the B-9 hero suit


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kitkarma said:


> Anyone have detail photos of the claw clamps on the B-9 hero suit


They looked like the ones on the Moebius kit. :thumbsup::lol:


----------



## Zathros (Dec 21, 2000)

*I guess I'm gonna be the "bad guy" here..I love the kit, but what in the world possessed Frank to have them enjineer the lower tread sections in 4 separate pieces???? once glued together it creates some lousy seams, that takes a repeated amount of filling, sanding and refilling ( as I am doing now) to get rid of the seams...would have made far more sense to have molded those lower tread assemblies in one part each.. *


z


----------



## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

kitkarma said:


> Anyone have detail photos of the claw clamps on the B-9 hero suit


this is the clearest shot i can find of the wrist clamps
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/pubfull/images/B9_11.jpg

and here
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/pubfull/images/B9_01.jpg
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/pubcomponents.html


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

David3 said:


> this is the clearest shot i can find of the wrist clamps
> http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/pubfull/images/B9_11.jpg
> 
> and here
> http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/tools/protected/reference/pubfull/images/B9_01.jpg


Many Thanks Sir........


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Decal Artwork for custom base.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Excellent!


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

can you post some pictures of this tread section please ? I want to see what the seams & treads look like.
Bert


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

kitkarma said:


> Decal Artwork for custom base.


Excellent.


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Gunter the robot


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Thanks Seaview. Let me know how it works, please.
> 
> MBZ




Sorry to report that the end result is very disappointing. Deep brush marks and uneven application. I'm gonna sand off what I can and just use standard Tamiya gloss white.


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

I was thinking mineral spirits or some other petroleum product might remove the shine on the vinyl parts. I will experiment and test on the inside of the legs. Perhaps acetone.......


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

"They shall all drown in lakes of goo."

Dudes, be VERY careful what you go splashin' on vinyl that thin.


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Hope this shows what you are looking for Bert.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Zathros said:


> *I guess I'm gonna be the "bad guy" here..I love the kit, but what in the world possessed Frank to have them enjineer the lower tread sections in 4 separate pieces???? once glued together it creates some lousy seams, that takes a repeated amount of filling, sanding and refilling ( as I am doing now) to get rid of the seams...would have made far more sense to have molded those lower tread assemblies in one part each.. *
> 
> 
> z


 

I hear you on that; I just finished my third session of sanding and am FINALLY pleased with the results. Oh, well, it is what it is. Just think of it as a challenge and a good workout for your sanding sticks.


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

kitkarma said:


> I was thinking mineral spirits or some other petroleum product might remove the shine on the vinyl parts. I will experiment and test on the inside of the legs. Perhaps acetone.......


vinyl is probably safe but mineral spirits can melt styrene for sure. A degreaser like Super Clean or Simple Green Concentrate is plastic safe and inert. It won't hurt any kind of plastic and is meant for removing any sort of surface gunk


----------



## oshkosh619 (Feb 24, 2009)

Seaview said:


> Sorry to report that the end result is very disappointing. Deep brush marks and uneven application. I'm gonna sand off what I can and just use standard Tamiya gloss white.


Seaview, just curious; did you paint the chest buttons and large round chest light lenses from the outside or inside (or both)? I had figured I'll paint mine from the inside, I've had good luck with doing that on painting things like the black borders found on modern car windshields and the lenses of police vehicle lightbars. When I 've done this, it leaves the outside of the lenses completely smooth with no paint buildup to mar the surface.


----------



## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

i filled and primed the seams on the tread sections and thought it looked perfect but when i sprayed on the silver finish the seams showed through. hmm..?!
tried a second time but still showing through with the silver finish :/ 
to me its gotta be perfect otherwise it ruins the effect so i'm gluing a thin plastic sheet over the entire surface and curving it under between the tracks. 
so that should take care of that.


----------



## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I wonder *IF* anyone thought of spun aluminum wheels and higher tech treads? Perhaps one that could easily be connected to some RC circuitry. 

I see RC as the wave of the future. Even if its just to remove the cable from the model and just for actuating lights, sounds etc. 

Just think how much easier It'll be to power the Jupiter 2 landing gear with RC so the 'support wires' wouldn't need to be connected to a control box. Remotely drop the flying sub from under the Seaview. I wonder if a small "sail Winch" servo might be used to pull in the arms of the B9 in, from a "Claws out" stance? Maybe with a warning of 50 thousand volts engaged? Working treads could be rigged I'm sure.


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I just got my kit yesterday. What strange engineering on a few of the parts. The flat faces behind the claws and the tread units are just awful. There was absolutely no reason to engineer those parts that way as it makes for awkward construction and bad seams. Other areas are very well thought out. Just strange. 

Sail Winch servos are not usually small. Because they have to have a lot of torque and manipulate the sails on an RC boat they are usually fairly beefy and large. The ones I sold were about 2" x 2" x 3/4"


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Zathros said:


> *I guess I'm gonna be the "bad guy" here..I love the kit, but what in the world possessed Frank to have them enjineer the lower tread sections in 4 separate pieces???? once glued together it creates some lousy seams, that takes a repeated amount of filling, sanding and refilling ( as I am doing now) to get rid of the seams...would have made far more sense to have molded those lower tread assemblies in one part each.. *
> 
> 
> z


are those tread section pics from the moebius B-9 robot or from somewhere else ? I want to see these bad seam areas to get an idea of how they look.
Bert


----------



## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

kitkarma said:


> Hope this shows what you are looking for Bert.


 are the 2 pictures from a full size robot or are they of the new moebius kit ?
are the seams easily fixed ?


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

bert model maker said:


> are the 2 pictures from a full size robot or are they of the new moebius kit ?
> are the seams easily fixed ?


The pics are indeed from a full size robot, the seems naturally appear down the center of the rubber tracks .


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The Moebius kit molds the wheels and treads into the sections of the feet, which are split vertically with big seams down the smooth front face. Oddly its just pretty crudely engineered. You would have thought with the time spent on the Robot's bubble and brain, that the same attention to detail would be on the rest of the kit, but it is not.


----------



## Arkons (Jan 8, 2013)

I had two beefs with the kit. 1. The instructions should have you go ahead and place all the lights, microphone, knob, torso details etc. on first. Then go ahead and build the wrists and claws, place the wrists and claws on the arms and THEN insert the arms into the torso front. After that, you can then build the torso (the front and back, top and bottom) together. It is extremely difficult to get the arms into the torso once you've built the torso. You have to really smoosh the arms into the torso and they just don't "click" into place that easily. In the meantime you're bending and denting the arms to get them to go in. You have to use needle nosed pliers to reach into the torso from the neck hole to grab the extra vinyl at the end of the arms to pull them in while you're pushing from the other side. The best way is to install the arms before you build the torso up so you can just pull the arms in from the back before it's all assembled. 2. I also didn't like how there's really no good support system inside the knee area. The only things holding the treadsections to the rest of the Robot is the little knee hinges. What little contact those have with the knee plates, there's not a lot to hold the treadsection on so you have to at least super glue the knee hinges to make it strong enough to pick him up without worrying if the treads will come off. I actually glued four 1/2 inch styrene tubes inside the knees (2 on each side) and that made the whole thing way more structurally sound.


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Well gentlemen I am happy to report that after testing several chemicals on the vinyl legs I found that a tissue with Tenax 7 liquid cement wiped on the surface of the legs will handily remove most of the gloss without harming the part in any way.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Liquid cement? And it leaves no residues?


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Liquid cement? And it leaves no residues?


No residue, the cement doesn't attack the vinyl part or harm it in any way.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Other liquid cements would get the same results or this might be a characteristic of this specific product?

BTW, I read here and there that it is discontinued.


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

MEK probably does the same thing. its an industrial solvent and cleaner. test it out first. MEK is also the main ingredient in a lot of the welder type glues like Tenax anyway.


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

For those of you concerned about the gloss on the robots vinyl parts, another solution no one has thought of,.....dust 'em up with some sand paper This works the best.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kitkarma said:


> .....dust 'em up with some sand paper This works the best.


Old school. I love it.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

In this thread, page 13, post #183, I had suggested *steelwool*.


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

IMHO the gloss is not the huge issue that it is made out to be. The kit instructions themselves tell you how to paint them if you wish, too.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

For the vinyl arms, legs and neck, I just slathered on Tamiya acrylic "dark grey" bottle paint, and it came out beautifully and without brush marks. :dude:
A problem area I discovered is the fit of the 3 side "brain" panels; the fit isn't as "exact" as the rest of the kit, so I needed to carefully putty & sand-stick the seams between them. Oh, well, just another challenge to keep this project fun & rewarding. :hat:


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Seaview said:


> For the vinyl arms, legs and neck, I just slathered on Tamiya acrylic "dark grey" bottle paint, and it came out beautifully and without brush marks. :dude:
> A problem area I discovered is the fit of the 3 side "brain" panels; the fit isn't as "exact" as the rest of the kit, so I needed to carefully putty & sand-stick the seams between them. Oh, well, just another challenge to keep this project fun & rewarding. :hat:





Aham...  _______  _______  _______  _______ pictures?


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Please!


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I would, but I'm too "frugal" to buy a digital camera. And I still don't even own a cell phone, either. Another reason is that I don't have an 8-year old around who could teach me how to use either of them. As a matter of fact, I still figure out my taxes using an abacus, too. I'll join the 19th Century someday, I suppose.


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

To be included in my diorama. Graphic for miniature TM Manual.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Seaview said:


> I would, but I'm too "frugal" to by a digital camera. And I still don't even own a cell phone, either. Another reason is that I don't have an 8-year old around who could teach me how to use either of them. As a matter of fact, I still figure out my taxes using an abacus, too. I'll join the 19th Century someday, I suppose.


May I suggest an update to your calculator?


----------



## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Serendipity Fernando! Did you know that Burroughs produced the rectangular computer consoles that are seen in Alpha control in the first episode, and there are three of them at the top of the flight controls aboard the Jupiter II?


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

OzyMandias said:


> Serendipity Fernando! Did you know that Burroughs produced the rectangular computer consoles that are seen in Alpha control in the first episode, and there are three of them at the top of the flight controls aboard the Jupiter II?


:thumbsup: But that would be a step too much large to our friend Seaview in his way to "join the 19th Century".


----------



## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Agreed, I just thought it was amusing that you picked a device from Burroughs which was used a lot in Lost in Space to make a joke in a thread about Lost in Space... Serendipity!!!


----------



## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

kitkarma said:


> To be included in my diorama. Graphic for miniature TM Manual.


That is really nice! As a retired USAF personnel superintendent, I've seen my share of AF manuals, and you really nailed this.

One nitpick: didn't Don say he was "an officer in the United States Space Corps"? 

I thought maybe the manual should say "Space Corps" instead of Air Force, but just realized that in the LIS universe, the Space Corps probably is a component of the Air Force, just as the US Marine Corps is a component of the US Navy.

But that's a subject for a different thread!


----------



## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

kitkarma said:


> To be included in my diorama. Graphic for miniature TM Manual.


Here's the front cover if you're interested...:thumbsup:


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Deleted


----------



## rondenning (Jul 29, 2008)

Already taken several screen shots of the Robot Assembly Manual, and will be cleaning them up or useing them as a guide to print out on photo paper to make a 1/6 scale manual for myself! From frame by frame looking at this robot assembly manual onscreen it looks to me that the numbers in the upper right corner are X4308 . Does this seem to be correct to you as well?
Ron


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

NTRPRZ said:


> That is really nice! As a retired USAF personnel superintendent, I've seen my share of AF manuals, and you really nailed this.
> 
> One nitpick: didn't Don say he was "an officer in the United States Space Corps"?
> 
> ...


Yes Don did say he was a member of the Space Corps, in the 3rd season episode 'Time Merchant' the wooden crate the Robot was packed in was clearly marked US Air Force ! 
So I extrapolated an Air Force Manual. The manual shown in the series looked more like a civilian version possibly supplied by the manufacturer.


----------



## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

rondenning said:


> Already taken several screen shots of the Robot Assembly Manual, and will be cleaning them up or useing them as a guide to print out on photo paper to make a 1/6 scale manual for myself! From frame by frame looking at this robot assembly manual onscreen it looks to me that the numbers in the upper right corner are X4308 . Does this seem to be correct to you as well?
> Ron


The Robot assembly manual shown in the series could very well have been a manual supplied by the manufacturer of the Robot.


----------



## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

OzyMandias said:


> Here's the front cover if you're interested...:thumbsup:


That's a pretty interesting graphic they used on the cover -- the Robot with his arms and legs akimbo. Sort of like DaVinci's Vitruvian Man.


----------



## rondenning (Jul 29, 2008)

I also figured the manual as the manufacturer's, but since I will make one for my 1/6 collection I want to try to make it as accurate as I can.
I hope you don't mind, but I copied your TM picture and will also create one of it in 1/6. 
I too think you did an outstanding job with the TM(I was in the Army and we always had more FM's(field manuals) than we had TM's (technical manuals). But there was a never ending supply of both!!! LOL !!
Ron


----------



## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

kitkarma said:


> The Robot assembly manual shown in the series could very well have been a manual supplied by the manufacturer of the Robot.


Haynes! They do an owners manual for anything that moves! :lol:

The code in the top corner is X 6308.

I would surmise the graphic of the robot walking is either a quick sketch from one of the art staff (Paul Zatupnevich maybe?) or one of Bob Kinoshita's original sketches. Some of his early drawings had all the design elements but seemed to have the Robot as a far more animated, bipedal beast.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> :thumbsup: But that would be a step too much large to our friend Seaview in his way to "join the 19th Century".


:thumbsup: I LOVE IT! :wave:


----------

