# Armature temperatures?



## Montoya1 (May 14, 2004)

Armature temperatures?

Anybody know what sort of temps stock class armatures get up to at the
end of a typical 3 minute race?

There is a reason behind this question, all will be revealed!!

Dean


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

What kind of cars are being raced?


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## Montoya1 (May 14, 2004)

Standard cars with stock 'can' type motors running for anywhere between 3-50 minutes.

Dean


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

I asked this question on another BB and got no answer. I do know the cooler any armature runs the better. I'll be watching this topic closely. Randy.


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

I don't have an exact temperature, but a stock Tyco/Mattel runs the coolest....you could run them as long as you want. Lifelikes, however do get hot if you run them too long. I'm not too familiar with SG+, though. One major factor in this is tire size.........if you use lower tires to take advantage of the magnets, be careful....this will cause strain on the motor and you'll heat up bigtime, and 3 minutes heats will be enough to cook them.


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## jamiestang (Dec 15, 2006)

Im gonna take some temps from my tyco 440x2 i will post them.Cause im curious about this to.What tricks are there for making them run cooler ?


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I've seen 200F with a stock arm,and 344F with a BSRT custom arm in a R/O car,but on average about 140 to 160 is common in a SS car,and between 160 and 205F isn't uncommon with the upper R/O cars


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## jamiestang (Dec 15, 2006)

I just ran a tyco 440x2 for 3 minutes temp only went up to 108 then thermometer said high.I guess ill have to go buy a thermometer that reads higher


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## mtyoder (Jan 3, 2004)

Some run hotter than others obviously. If the car drags the rails like some of ours do they get pretty hot. Then there's gear ratio and track layout. I think my cars get hotter on our oval than on the road courses, but we don't run road coarse very often though. As far as temp. I don't have a clue.


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## jamiestang (Dec 15, 2006)

Does quad magnets help the tyco arm run cooler ?


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## jamiestang (Dec 15, 2006)

jamiestang said:


> I just ran a tyco 440x2 for 3 minutes temp only went up to 108 then thermometer said high.I guess ill have to go buy a thermometer that reads higher


 tryed with new digital thermometer it goes up to 500 degress ran tyco 44ox2 35 laps and temp read 117 degress and patriot storm 5 laps 98 degress


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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

jamiestang said:


> tryed with new digital thermometer it goes up to 500 degress ran tyco 44ox2 35 laps and temp read 117 degress and patriot storm 5 laps 98 degress



For out of the package bang for the buck,the Storm is my favorite chassis.I got a bunch of new rollers in,and out of the package,they were all quite fast,and all very close to each other in lap times.

But,once you start lowering it to the rails,and changing gear ratios,be careful,they get HOT.

I have a couple of G3's with spinner spud arms and poly traction magnets.After 20 or so laps,you could light a cigarette off the arm,but she keeps on a goin'.

The trick I guess is to find the right balance.

I also found out this week in my armature de/re wind study that I did down here,that the gauge of wire makes a dif in the heat as well.

I wound some G3 arms this week in the 4.5 ohm range with the stock wire.Incredibly out of control scary fast.
For about 5 laps,and then nuclear melt down.

MiKe


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## RMMseven (Oct 22, 2004)

I not sure I can answer this as there are too many variables.
I know if a car is really low and almost dragging the arm can be really hot after even one minute but this can be attributed to AC ripple if a power supply is used.
I would guess anywhere from 100F up to the point that solder melts.


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## FastMann (Dec 19, 2006)

Is there a way to get air to the motor to cool it without sacrificing downforce?


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## jamiestang (Dec 15, 2006)

FastMann said:


> Is there a way to get air to the motor to cool it without sacrificing downforce?


I was wondering this to but i cant come up with any ideas cause the cars are so small cant do a cooling fan .What gauge motor wire runs the coolest ?


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Hey Racer X - I ran a Patriot Wizzard in excess of an hour on my track. It ran extremely well. Now it does not go near as fast. I have changed brushes, cleaned everything, new pick ups, etc. Is it possible it go too hot and will no longer perform as well, or when they get too hot do they just quit?
Jim


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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

T-jetjim said:


> Hey Racer X - I ran a Patriot Wizzard in excess of an hour on my track. It ran extremely well. Now it does not go near as fast. I have changed brushes, cleaned everything, new pick ups, etc. Is it possible it go too hot and will no longer perform as well, or when they get too hot do they just quit?
> Jim


Check your brush tension.And one thing that you need to clean really well is the brush barrels.I use Brasso and a pipe cleaner.

Check the wear on the com plates on the arm as well.The wear should be even,there shouldnt be a gouge in the middle.

Some guys true them on fancy lathes.I,who alway looks for a better and cheaper way,chuck mine in a Dremel.I true them with sand paper.

I paint my own guitars,and do finish repairs as well.I have sand paper in increments of 200,from 100 grit,all the way up to 2000 grit.

I like 600 or 800 for arms.

One more thing.Make sure the brushes are super clean.I lay them on my stainless work bench and hit them with my soldering gun.
When they stop smokin',they is nice and clean. :tongue: 

Mike


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Mike- Thanks for the troubleshooting recommendations. I'll give it a try.

Jim


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

If it's got the stock white gears in it,check them for rough spots,they are notrious for wearing out.
If you upgrade to Bigfeet brushes,your com's and brushes will last much longer,and the car will gain a bunch of speed.


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## gear buster (Dec 1, 2005)

*temps*

I also run patriot cars from stock to unlimited. if you run them draggin on the rail you will smoke them eventually  . A good set up for the patriot is silicon rears,independent fronts. This will create less drag.Black marker rear and motor mags.Run a few laps and check marks on the mags. If a slight line appears on both and looks even you have ballpark tire size.Brush tension adjustment.Rule of thumb is 2 threads showing out end of barrel will get you real close to set.Brushes clean.Clean sheet of notebook paper.Lay flat on table and roll brush back and forth and you will see the black carbon coming off.do this till very little black on paper.Brush tubes. All new barrels have burres.I use welder torch tip cleaners to run through the barrel to remove any obstructions.Insert the brush into the barrel and see if it slids through easy.These are some of the tricks to getting a clean running Pcar.Your temps should run about 140 to 168 or so.I have run the unlimited to 260 to 300 and it still run. Tweeked the brushes a little but still run. :thumbsup: A good supply of power also helps.A little tweekin and a little trial and error gets you going.


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