# Snow blower runs now only on full choke



## walther (Nov 30, 2011)

Hello Everyone,
Happy New Year.

My Craftsman snow blower now will only run with the choke fully engaged. When I try to back it off it stalls. This condition began after my wife ran the machine and I believe she never backed off the choke after she started it. She must have run it an hour with the choke fully engaged. It now runs, but poorly.
How do I get it back to normal?
Thanks


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## Pista_510 (Jan 23, 2014)

I think you may find that you have a fouled spark plug or a very choked up exhaust muffler system...

Although you didn't mention if the Craftsman blower is a 2 stroke or 4 stroke type (I assume it is 4 stroke because of the forum it is in) however running that rich a mixture for that long would definitely carbon up the spark plug (and fill the muffler baffles with oily residue, if a 2 stroke). If fact, it is quite surprising the unit started again....

Best remedy could be to try removing and cleaning (or better yet, replacing) the spark plug with a fresh new one....

If your unit uses 2 stroke fuel, the muffler unit could also be removed and cleaned with Carburettor Cleaner; just spray away into the inlet and outlet of the removed muffler and let it loosen up and rinse away the sludge inside it. This will a generate a serious mess so have plenty of newspapers or rags to soak up the stuff (and don't do this operation close to any surfaces that you don't want to stain, like the lounge room carpet!) that drains out...wearing some rubber gloves and some safety goggles wouldn't go astray either! Repeat this process a few times and once the carb cleaner starts to come out of the muffler relatively clear, let it dry out in a warm area (not near an open fire....) and reattach it to the machine and it should be back to normal.

All the best with it!


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

The condition you describe usually indicates an obstruction with in the carburetor. Running with the choke on pulls more fuel than air. Running for that much time with the choke on, may have pulled some specks of debris into the main jet, restricting the fuel flow. Engine will run on choke as it is pulling more fuel, but die as choke is turned off.


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## walther (Nov 30, 2011)

*Ok, A carb clean*

How far in do you suppose I would have to go? Do I need to do a carb kit? It was running flawlessly up until this condition.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

If your carb has a jet in the bowl nut of the carb, you could start by removing that and cleaning it. Wire from a twist tie works well along with a little aerosol carb cleaner. If the bowl nut does not have a jet, then you would need to remove the carb, disassemble it and clean it. Outdoorpowerinfo.com has great instructions on cleaning carbs. Do not think a carb kit will be needed.


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## walther (Nov 30, 2011)

*Thank you*

Sounds like a good start especially since its a job I can handle. 
Thanks also for the instructional resource contact.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

Good luck.


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## walther (Nov 30, 2011)

*Still running rough*

Hello and thanks for your replies:
This is a 4 stroke engine. First the spark plug was fine. It had minimal residue on the thread and the electrode was a "coffee with milk" color. It was also gapped at .30 as recommended in the manual.

I pulled off the housing to access the carb and was surprised to see no air filter. The parts diagram also does not show a filter. Anyway I removed the bowl and found a tiny bit of silt and cleaned it. The nut jet at the bottom of the bowl was also clear. The float appeared to move freely. A bright light shown into the carb showed no signs of any particle debris or oily fouling. 

The machine cleared both my and my neighbor's driveway but it took much longer, stalled often and threatened stalling the whole time.

I guess it's time to remove the carb for a more through examination?

Your suggestions are welcome.

Thanks


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

walther said:


> Hello and thanks for your replies:
> This is a 4 stroke engine. First the spark plug was fine. It had minimal residue on the thread and the electrode was a "coffee with milk" color. It was also gapped at .30 as recommended in the manual.
> 
> I pulled off the housing to access the carb and was surprised to see no air filter. The parts diagram also does not show a filter. Anyway I removed the bowl and found a tiny bit of silt and cleaned it. The nut jet at the bottom of the bowl was also clear. The float appeared to move freely. A bright light shown into the carb showed no signs of any particle debris or oily fouling.
> ...


If there was silt in the bowl, I'd go ahead, if you know how, breaking the carb completely down including taking the jets along with the seat and flushing the whole thing. No filter would allow dust to get into the carb and foul it up.


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## Cranky (May 21, 2010)

With all the snow we have been dealing with so far, and who knows how much more to come, it is always nice to have a snow blower running as good as possible. Makes the job so much more enjoyable, especially if one likes to do neighbors driveways.

That being said, I personally had better luck and better end-results using a carburetor kit versus cleaning and reusing all the parts. For what these kits cost anyway...

Regarding your observation for the lack of air filter, snow blower engines are designed to have a heater box surrounding the carb and part of the muffler, thus preventing carb icing. Air is pretty much dust free in the winter for the conditions the snow blower is exposed to.

Good luck with your project


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

In the throat of the carb on the throttle plate side there should be 3 tiny holes. Spray some carb cleaner into these holes a few times and finish with compressed air. A carb kit will generally consist of a needle, seat, bowl nut gasket and float bowl gasket. Your issue still sounds like an obstruction with in the carb. These engines do not have air filters as there is really no dust or debris in the winter and snow can mist can quickly clog or freeze an air filter. It is sometimes hard to help with issues without actually having the problem in front of us. A deteriorating fuel line can cause tiny specks of debris to block fuel flow.


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## walther (Nov 30, 2011)

*Success*

Hello All,
Thanks for all your input. Running as it should be. Cleared all three driveways like a charm.
Now all I need is a machine that can hurl slush!
Thanks again everyone!
Walther


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Hello Walther. Good job on the successful repair. :thumbsup:You never said if this machine was a single stage (rubber paddles) or a two stage (metal auger and impeller). Most snow blowers have a difficult time throwing slush, although a single stage performs better in these conditions. If YOUR machine is a two stage, use Google and search for "clarence impeller kit". These are pieces of rubber usually made from conveyor belt material that is bolted to the impeller and dramatically improves the throwing of slush and powdered snow.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

I have watched you tube videos on adding the rubber strips to the impeller. Looks like a good idea. 
Walther, what did you wind up doing to get it running better?


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## walther (Nov 30, 2011)

*Reinspect and clean*

Hello again,
I had to reevaluate. The machine had been running flawlessly until my wife ran it for a few hours without turning back the choke. Naturally, it had to be the carb?

So I threw my dilemma into the forum and clean the bowl etc was the recommendation. I did this and the machine still ran very rough. 

During the first inspection of the carb bowl nut I saw what may have been a speck but was a hole. So I went back in and stuck a small piece of speaker wire into the hole and then a good blast of pressurized air. I was ready to take more apart but figured to put it back together and rule out the basic cleaning. Like I reported earlier it runs as it should with the choke off.

That tiny hole created quite the nuisance.

During this operation my Craftsman compressor won't hold air. First the gun attachment would not shut off so I would pull it off the quick-connect joiner. Now the hose end does not seal and I lose all pressure almost immediately. New hose? The compressor is not a year old or maybe just so.

Anyway, thanks. Once the weather improves I'll be back again for advice on the garden tractor that spits gas out of the carb and the mower that see-saws while mowing.
Best


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

walther said:


> Now the hose end does not seal and I lose all pressure almost immediately. New hose? The compressor is not a year old or maybe just so.


With the hose disconnected from the compressor, try spraying some WD40 or something comparable into the female connector and then work the male connector in and out to try and free up the steel ball check valve. A new replacement fitting is only a few dollars.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

usmcgrunt said:


> With the hose disconnected from the compressor, try spraying some WD40 or something comparable into the female connector and then work the male connector in and out to try and free up the steel ball check valve. A new replacement fitting is only a few dollars.


Second this reply. I recently had the quick disconnect come off the hose with a full tank of air. Scared the ___________ out of me!!!


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