# Are there any painting tricks for...



## Dirt (Dec 29, 1998)

Are there any tricks to getting a good shiny black paint job? 

There is plenty of time before I can try anything. My work bench is in my basement but I paint outside. The problem is it's been like 25 below zero these recent nights. The high on Monday is supposed to be -13. I have LOTS of time...

My best,
Ernie
MunsterKoach.com


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## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

The best way to get a great paint job, begins at the base. If you lay down a smooth coat of primer, wet sand, lay misted coats, let each coat dry (lacquer coats 5 mins, enamels 15-20 minutes)and mist additional layers to achieve coverage. Wet sanding the later coats, will ensure the smoothest possible finish. 
Clear Coat after the finish is smooth.

No amount of paint, will cover flaws, without introducing their own flaws(runs, drips)

Also best advice I can give is test your paint mix, air ratio on a test body, or paper(3 dimensional objects are better because paper won't show orange peel)
Shoot the object with the lowest air setting, that you can properly spray.

Hope this helps you as well as others with painting questions,
The car in this photo, has no clear coat on it, and was achieved by the above methods.


Also, wait for the temps to rise, if you shoot it when it is that cold, you will have a flat, crazed sheen over the paint job.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

vypurr59 said:


> The best way to get a great paint job, begins at the base. If you lay down a smooth coat of primer, wet sand, lay misted coats, let each coat dry (lacquer coats 5 mins, enamels 15-20 minutes)and mist additional layers to achieve coverage. Wet sanding the later coats, will ensure the smoothest possible finish.
> Clear Coat after the finish is smooth.
> 
> No amount of paint, will cover flaws, without introducing their own flaws(runs, drips)
> ...


All of the above are great advice, I learned most of it the hard way but if you follow these steps and be PATIENT you can't go wrong. The only thing I would add is PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE your technique, so you get familiar with the distance you need to be from your subject when spraying different paints (enamels vs. acrylics vs. lacquers). Too close and you'll create puddles, too far and you'll get grain. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.


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## Dirt (Dec 29, 1998)

Thanks for the replies! I appreciate it!

I suppose I should have mentioned that I don't have an air brush. :drunk: 

I take that back. Somewhere I have one of those Testors canned air ones that I've not taken out of the box. A friend told me to throw it away...

My best,
Ernie
MunsterKoach.com


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Dirt said:


> Thanks for the replies! I appreciate it!
> 
> I suppose I should have mentioned that I don't have an air brush. :drunk:
> 
> ...


Time to log on to Ebay and get to spendin'! That old Testors canned one could be adapted for a compressor.

Airbrushing is my preferred method. You can get much more control over the finish you want, besides the versatility of being able to mix and spray your own colors. I've seen decent ones going for about $75 - $100. All depends if you have the cash to spare but IMHO it's worth it for the better finishes. You'll need to practice some first though, until you feel comfortable pointing at one of your models and *eek* pulling the trigger.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Dirt said:


> ...I suppose I should have mentioned that I don't have an air brush. :drunk:


You can still get decent results using off-the-shelf spray paints, primers, and clear coats if you warm the cans before you spray. I put mine in a large plastic bag (so the water won't rust the can if you don't use all of the paint) and soak them in a bucket of hot tap water for 10-15 minutes before use; it makes the paint flow from the can easier, and it lays down better (smoother) on the surface. I learned this "trick" right here on Hobby Talk, and have used it ever since. It might be worth mentioning that I use enamel paints almost exclusively, but I seem to recall using this tip with acrylic spray paint once and it worked just as well.

Of course, all of the other standard techniques must still be used--surface preparation, paint when the ambient temperature is appropriate (i.e., not too cold, not too humid), shake the can well, multiple light coats, sand between coats if necessary/desired, and so on.


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## Dirt (Dec 29, 1998)

I imagine if I did bite the bullet and find a decent brush and compressor I'd likely build more models. Also with tools that are nicer (not cheapie stuff), it's probably a bit easier to get a decent finish. Even flow, etc... 

Air brushes and compressors: What should I look for, stay away from, have to have, needed features, average price??? I've never tried to use an air brush. I'm guessing the technique gets better as you get more comfortable you get with it.

Now that you mention heating the spray cans, I do remember reading that here, as well. However, that was many years ago and I had forgotten it. At present, that might be my first step.

Thanks to all of you for replying!
Ernie
MunsterKoach.com


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