# Starting a PL Enterprise Refit build



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Hey all fellow sci-fi modelers. Just wanted to stop by and tell you I'm starting a long anticipated build of the Polar Lights Enterprise. I know you all are all over this model. I hope to glean and share the knowledge.

I'm going to post my progress here as I start. I'm also posting at my blog too.

You can see that here: Strato Art Sci-Fi Modeling

I'm actually following in the footsteps of a guy on flickr (he may be here on this blog) named The Lazy Modeler.

He has an awesome collection of sci-fi kits built. You can see his stuff here:

The Lazy Modeler 

Right now, I'm already done with the research stage. I've had the kit in the box nearly a year now, and I need to get working on it. And I've just hit my 40th b-day so I'm going to get TrekModeler's lighting kit.

wish me luck!


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

*Structural Integrity Device for PL Enterprise Refit 1/350*

Has anyone here purchased the "structural integrity device" over at CultTVman?

Structural Integrity Device










I'm only seeing it listed as: Out of Stock.

I'd really like to get this. If anyone has any information on it. I've subscribed to CultmanTV's yahoo group updates.


----------



## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

I had considered getting one of the SIDs myself, but based upon what I have read from other builders of the PL Refit, you really don't need the SID to build the model.

Thomas or PL engineered it so well that it doesn't need any extra reinforcement. I think that is pretty plain to see when you see pictures of the re-release of the kit. It now has one single acrylic rod holding up that beast.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

MartinHatfield said:


> I had considered getting one of the SIDs myself, but based upon what I have read from other builders of the PL Refit, you really don't need the SID to build the model.
> 
> Thomas or PL engineered it so well that it doesn't need any extra reinforcement. I think that is pretty plain to see when you see pictures of the re-release of the kit. It now has one single acrylic rod holding up that beast.


That's good to know. If I don't have to spend $89 that would be money I can spend toward more scratch building material and photo-etch.

btw, I did put in a preorder for PL re-release of the refit. I also heard it will contain aztek masks too. :woohoo:


----------



## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

Decals - not masks.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Gunstar1 said:


> Decals - not masks.


Ahh, okay, well that will be different. I wonder if they will be good decals. It seems to stay close to the studio model, painting the aztec pattern would be the better way to go.


----------



## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

If you want the pearl effect, yeah.
Check out this recent thread:


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=244314


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Gunstar1 said:


> If you want the pearl effect, yeah.
> Check out this recent thread:
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=244314


Yeah I agree with Raist3001. I'm not going to attempt at 100% accuracy on the azteking and exact pearlescent colors. I ordered a set of taxidermy pearlescent colors. Pearl White and transparent Pearl blue to do some different subtle shades. And I'll lay some other subtle pearl colors down and then do some flat white azteking. Something along those lines. I'll need to experiment on plastic styrene when I get my paints in.

Awesome stuff, thanks!


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

From my own currant experiance doing this kit getting the aztek dummy templates are a must. :thumbsup: I'm using those along with the down loadable pdfs from arthurpendragon which I got thru SSM. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cz_mask.htm 

The way I did it may not be the correct way Paul Olsen did the origional but I like the results I am getting so far.  I also found its a pretty solid kit so I didn't bother with the SID either.

Cheers.

Alec. :wave:


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

AJ-1701 said:


> From my own currant experiance doing this kit getting the aztek dummy templates are a must. :thumbsup: I'm using those along with the down loadable pdfs from arthurpendragon which I got thru SSM. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cz_mask.htm
> 
> The way I did it may not be the correct way Paul Olsen did the origional but I like the results I am getting so far.  I also found its a pretty solid kit so I didn't bother with the SID either.
> 
> ...


Those are AWESOME, thanks Alec! Wow :woohoo:


----------



## Disillusionist (Apr 19, 2003)

Dale Jackson said:


> Those are AWESOME, thanks Alec! Wow :woohoo:


I used those as guides when I did my aztecing. They are extremely useful. My hat is off to their creator!


----------



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks for pointing those out. I had no idea they were hiding there. 

And *BIG THANKS* to their creator, Carloz Z! (and the nameless hordes who assisted in the TMP effort!!!


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Now I just need to go to the art store and get some frisket. I haven't used frisket before so I'll study up on how to use it. I see the instructions that came along with the masks. If anyone has further tips, please let me know.


----------



## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

It's really easy to use.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Krako said:


> It's really easy to use.


Is it a kind of peel off layer that sticks to the surface of the model and then you cut out the pattern* with a sharp blade right on the model?

* (I see that the pattern is to be printed as per instructions)


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Dale Jackson said:


> Is it a kind of peel off layer that sticks to the surface of the model and then you cut out the pattern* with a sharp blade right on the model?
> 
> * (I see that the pattern is to be printed as per instructions)


My printer didn't like the frisket I sourced down here  so I just used a good quality copy paper - not the home brand recycled stuff - printed out the number of templates I need then paced an oversized piece of frisket I peeled of the backing and traced the outlines and then cut out the areas I wanted. then I just peeled the frisket carefully of the print and put it back on its glossy backing paper. Then when I had completed all the templates I applied the frisket to the model. I did find the frisket held better when I had put a fine layer of gloss. Only because my pearl mixes came out a bit chalky :freak: I also found keeping the airbrush running at a lower psi was the best way not to lift the frisket back up when spraying. Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Alec. :wave:


----------



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Dale, be sure to study this build. He nailed this ERTL build everywhere!

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Model...e1701/tabid/815/AlbumID/1526-515/Default.aspx


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

AJ-1701 said:


> My printer didn't like the frisket I sourced down here  so I just used a good quality copy paper - not the home brand recycled stuff - printed out the number of templates I need then paced an oversized piece of frisket I peeled of the backing and traced the outlines and then cut out the areas I wanted. then I just peeled the frisket carefully of the print and put it back on its glossy backing paper. Then when I had completed all the templates I applied the frisket to the model. I did find the frisket held better when I had put a fine layer of gloss. Only because my pearl mixes came out a bit chalky :freak: I also found keeping the airbrush running at a lower psi was the best way not to lift the frisket back up when spraying. Hope that helps.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alec. :wave:



That helps a ton! I'll give the frisket a try through my epson printer and I have a Lexmark printer too. I noticed people saying they are using powder pearlescent colors to mix with their paint. Has anyone tried the pearlescent paints used by taxidermists to paint fish? TheLazyModeler on flickr uses them and his looks mighty nice. And those are especially designed for airbrushes. I figure it's so much easier if you don't have to mix too much (just wanted to see if anyone used those paints besides the guy I mentioned).


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Model Man said:


> Dale, be sure to study this build. He nailed this ERTL build everywhere!
> 
> http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Model...e1701/tabid/815/AlbumID/1526-515/Default.aspx


Oh YEAH I'm so glad you hooked me up to this link. I had this a long while back and lost my bookmarks. Yes I saw this guy's build, it's absolutely awesome!!!! :woohoo:

For the ERTL the paint scheme is incredible and so is his lighting.

Thanks!


----------



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Dale Jackson said:


> ...I had this a long while back and lost my bookmarks.


Me too! It was about 2 yrs ago when I first bought the PL, I then lost my bookmarks. I was thinking about this yesterday and one of my youtube subscriber's sent me the link a few mins ago. 

Kyu-Woong nailed the lighting and I'll be using it for mine. 

All the recent Refits here have gotten me to dig mine out. So now as I learn on my Destroyer build (in the lighting section right now) I'll immediately apply those lessons to the 1701 build.

Good luck with yours. I'll follow along!
Tom


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Cool, I'll be ordering my TrekModeler lighting this upcoming week. I'm very eager to get that going .


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Well I just got the Aztec-ing pattern from Starship Modeler. I'll be using these and also the free patterns too. This is going to be so much fun (yeah right :freak.

No, really, I'm going to really enjoy this build I've been gearing up for it for years now. It will be my first serious lighting and modeling job (though I've done other smaller jobs).

The Enterprise refit is my all-time favorite starship. I have to say it is, perhaps, the most beautiful lines of any Trek starship out there. Matt Jeffries refit is just drop-dead gorgeous.

I don't think Star Trek XI Enterprise cuts even close (no offense to Ryan Church).


----------



## TGel63 (Mar 26, 2004)

Oh Ryan Church is already plenty offended LOL. But I agree with you.


----------



## JerryUK (Jun 5, 2005)

Amusingly I'm now looking to build the PL BIG 'E'. Bought it about 4 years ago, got scared due to the size, and it's been collecting dust ever since!

Decided to tackle it now and have been reading up lots, and thanks to Gunstar / MARC111 and all the incredible works of art you are all making.

Initially decided to make TMP version, but decided that maybe too difficult in that there appears to only be b+w photo's and for the movie the model was shot in soft lighting so really good ref matrial seems a bit scarce. Even from the B+W photos the level of detail is a tad intimidating.

May now attempt the wrath of Khan version instead, think the model was repainted for this film.

Not too keen on the A version as the revised hanger deck as it ST V seems about half the size of the one in TMP and less interesting

Found one good link to A version from 2006 Christies auction. You probably already know of this but here it is anyway.

http://startrekpropauthority.blogspot.com/2008/05/detailed-photostudy-of-enterprise-8.html

To my eye this looks like the original paintjob has been almost totally covered / flattened..or was it redone entirely?

Whilst I decide on which version to make, I've decided first to design the electronics. I was going to make it programable with software, but changed my mind to make it all made of logic gates / op amps and transistors.

It will have capabilty of 8 channels of operation, and will inculde deflector dish colour change (via use of a 3 watt RGB led), all nav lights, CCFL for warp engines, photon firing simulation etc etc. Looks like it will use a 12V/5V supply ( you can get these off ebay..they are used for external 3.5" USB hard disc drive supply)
I've seen some photo of models that use LED lasers to simulate phasers, but I reckon this will be near invisible unless you blow smoke at the model! Bit dangerous too!

On the point of danger, beware of CCFL (aka blue neon lamps) due to the VERY HIGH VOLTAGE to the lamps. I'm an experienced electronics guy and for the last 2 years been working in lighting. I design industrial CCFL power supplies. A typical 3 watt 12" long CCFL lamp will have approx 1000 volts peak to the lamp. I know... I've measured it, so beware.

I intend to treat this model as a series of smaller models, and intend to start with the deflector dish. I want to sort out some of the major inaccuracies (thanks MARC111) and to get the lighting effect as best I can.

So serious planning stage now, buying tools, LED's lamps, stuff to make circuit boards, airbrushes, and research !!!

Serious work hasn't started yet!


----------



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

It sounds like there are piles of us overcoming our fears of this build right about now. 'The Next Gen' of builders as it were. Thanks to all who have come before us and laid out the meticulous ground work up to now. I don't know if there are any new details we will stumble across, but one never knows. 

While there's innaccuracies and painting sticky threads, there is none for lighting and electronics -a third keystone to this kit. This model certainly requires a triumverate of skills to accomplish well.

Looking forwad to reading your electronics insght, Jerry!


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

If I'm not mistaken that one that was auctioned off would have had the last paint for Star Trek VI The Undiscovered Country, so that's probably what we are seeing there at that link.

I love the Wrath of Kahn version, they used some footage from TMP I think.

I would love to tackle TMP but yeah it's hard.


----------



## Disillusionist (Apr 19, 2003)

If you look closely at the Christies auction pictures, there is still a lot of the original paintwork from TMP still there. Especially on the top of the saucer and on the nacelles. The pearl still manages to shine through, even after multiple layers of dull-cote and years of accumulated crud. 

Jerry, that's funny you've chosen to use a 3 watt RGB LED for your deflector. That's exactly what I've been planning for my next one. I'm in the midst of designing an LED driver board for it right now.:thumbsup:


----------



## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

The major differences are that the TMP paint job was somewhat covered up and dulled down for ST:II and the secondary hull has had at least a couple of repaints - the paneling as seen in II-IV differs from TMP, and V-VI is another repaint .


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Does anyone know who the studio model was auctioned off to? I'm guessing it's lost forever to a private collector and we won't see it again.


----------



## JerryUK (Jun 5, 2005)

Re electronics I'll be mocking up circuits first on 'veroboard' before making a much smaller circuitboard.

The deflector dish electronics will just take 5V dc and this will be a small board containing smd components mounted near to the RGB led.

If any of you use Pspice student edition (free on the web), I can provide my simulation circuit for this.

In order to colour mix (so the blue can be made a bit more turquoisy for instance), this circuit will have effectively 6 channels to the RGB LED. Not sure if the bronze to blue should be digital or take half a second..probably will just see what I think is best.

To get even illumination will probably frost the back of the clear part, also intending to lightly frost the front and maybe spray it light 'smoke' colour..and later mask off the grid lines and either frost them or do a light blow over with white..these grid lines do appear whiteish. Also going to set back the RGB led at least 0.5 inch..to get good dispersion, so the defletor part (white) will have to be cut up a bit.

Noticed an oddity on the christies photos..the parts of the deflector which have the pointy arrow starfleet symbol thing on 'em are very different colours! one side looks like darkish platimum the other side pearl white.. nothing's ever simple is it?


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

JerryUK said:


> Re electronics I'll be mocking up circuits first on 'veroboard' before making a much smaller circuitboard.


I wish I knew more about electronics. It's well out of my realm. I did take an electronics drawing course long ago in college, but nowadays I just stick to 3D modeling and scale modeling.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

I may try my hand at backlighting the floodlighting on the saucer section. Similar to this guy: http://www.raytheonmodels.com/wipplentcom12.html

I'll have to experiment once I get the lighting kit.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

I found a cool explanation in _Mr. Scott's Guide to the Enterprise, 1st Edition (page 13 - Enterprise Refit)_.

*"During the refit, Enterprise was given an additional, though minor, footnote in Star Fleet history. In order to save adding many tons of mass to the vessel, it was decided, for the first time ever, not to paint a Federation vessel with the customary light-gray thermocoat. In fact, Enterprise’s pearlescent, bare-alloy appearance was so favorably receieved that Star Fleet has eliminated thermocoat from all vessels of 90,000 metric tons and above."*

Interesting. Though I think perhaps that the Enterprise Refit as seen in TMP was still in testing phase (like Scotty said) and they just didn't have time to paint her before Kirk whipped it out of dry dock for the V'ger mission, that would be a better explanation than Star Fleet just "liking it better." (geek side showing).

I suppose it would be similar to the F-22 in test phase at Edwards AFB with it's bare-metal alloy compared to it's permanent 2-tone gray paint production model as seen below.

So I can understand the metal-alloy plating pattern on the Enterprise, it makes sense as I'm seeing that on the F-22 fighter shown below. If you understand how these metals look under sunlight you can approach the model from that direction and understand how Olsen came up with his colors.









Bare-metal alloy F-22 compared to USAF standard paint production model


----------



## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

Alas. They should have gone with the YF-23.










Anyway, what doesn't make much sense from that book (which I have too) is that though starfleet went ahead with the idea of no-paint, the ships all look much uglier (paint-wise) after TMP - in STII they look dirty and dusty (apart from the TMP stock footage), in STIII the flat lighting makes them look.

Olsen does talk about using 747 metal patterns as a reference.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

I agree about the flat white look of later movies which the refit was in. The one I hated worse was Star Trek IV and V.
Realistically speaking the lighting in TMP is the most accurate, perhaps even a bit more stark shadowing in space because there is no atmosphere.
But the self-illumination of the Enterprise (just looks like a big glowing ship) in it's last movies were awful.

I'm going to attempt the TMP bare-metal paint. :freak:
I've seen everyone do the 1701A paint, but I haven't seen anyone do the TMP refit bare-metal alloy scheme. Perhaps people feel it's too hard to tackle.

But I'd like to do it and I'll definitely be practicing with my airbrush (I have a dual action Iwata siphon feed with a compressor)

I do like this image of the Enterprise in STIII coming into space-dock however, I know the ship has been painted over.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Gunstar1 said:


> the ships all look much uglier (paint-wise) after TMP - in STII they look dirty and dusty


Which doesn't make sense since the ships are in space, they would remain super clean all the time, since they don't enter the atmosphere. 
(with exception of the Klingon Bird of prey and shuttlecraft which have a right to look dirty going in and out of the atmosphere)
But hey! we all don't see things from the perspective of space usually, so the model makers had to make the ships believable to us, earthlings from a ground perspective. 

(p.s. Star Wars ships like the Xwing and Ywing and MF can all look dirtied up because they constantly go in/out of atmospheres whereas the Star Destroyers should remain perfectly clean if they don't enter the atmosphere).

Oh, and perhaps dust/dirt and all those panels give depth to the model, that's probably the first rule in model making, I'm sure.


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Actually Dale there are many reasons why a spacecraft would look "weathered" Even though we consider space to be a void and vacuum there is in fact varying degrees and scales of particulate and gaseous matter drifting between planets and stars. For instance the plasma released form suns via solar flares and through solar winds and then there is all sorts of nebular dust and gases. Now take a space craft travelling at hyper velocities that skims a nebular cloud. It would have the similar result to driving a shiny new car through a hedge row. Some minor structural damage but the paint job would be certainly badly scarred. And then you have to consider there may internal atmospheric leaks from damaged panels and seams of a spacecraft due to any number of reasons.

But as these are vehicals from science fiction I say "WEATHER EM UP" :woohoo: I know my wife likes to see the ships I do all shiny and new where as I like em to appear as if they heve been in service for a bit. So she always has a dig at me about the weathering  I'm actually considering doing some warp burns and weathering on my refit I just have to work up the courage to assault my paint job


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Aren't deflector shields (science fiction definition) supposed to deflect all these things away from the ship? I know our long distance probes today don't have deflector shields (obviously) but there's no large dust or nebulae matter to hit them (except for small rocks or ice from a nearby planet it's looking at).

Anyhoo, I agree with you, I like em weathered too. Just something about shiny spit-polished aircraft and starships that make them look unrealistic for some reason. I think that's the problem for a lot of old CGI, it needed to have a "used" look for it. So I agree with you about weathering it up. Imagine how unnatural the Enterprise would look if it were mirror polished clean, though it is clean compared to Star Wars ships. 

Also weathering adds a sense of depth to the model.

Warp burns, I wonder what would that look like? what's your idea on that, that's interesting.


----------



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I think I agree w/ Dale specifically that deflectors, I think, were explained in TOS to sweep aside micro-meteorites. (?) 

And if painting the Refit specifically, she was only in service for a day or so by the end of TMP. You can't get any shiny-new-car fresher than that. I forget how much time passed to Khan, but then it was only another day or so later before she was destroyed in III.


----------



## Gunstar1 (Mar 1, 2007)

Keep in mind that the production team for STIII wanted the ship to look beat up and "old" - thus all the extra damage that appears out of nowhere between II and III. It would be less dramatic for a shiny Enterprise to gracefully escape the sleek Excelsior than a gimpy limping old granny like the big E.

You can deduce all kinds of reasons why it looks weathered, but the above reason is why they decided to do it. At this point in Star Trek history (STIII), plot device was a far weightier thing than the uber-techno-babble geekdom that grew out of ST TNG.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Well I just placed my order for Trek Modelers lighting kit, can't wait to get it in. Meanwhile I'll be visiting the hobby store for some scratchbuilding materials.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Okay, I just purchased my materials for the botanical area on the Enterprise. I was going to get the powder-like grass that you sprinkle on. But then I remembered that the botanical section (underneath the engineering level) was a fairly small area and the fine powder (as nice as it is) wasn't quite suitable.

What I did find at my hobby store was called "Ready Grass Vinyl Mat" It is a large 12.5"x14.12" sheet with the grass surface on one side. It's perfect and I would have a ton left over for my other dioramas. This was only $3.29 at my local hobby store which contains a very large selection of model trains and all the materials to get into that hobby, which I would love to do for my boys as they grow older.

The READYGRASS vinyl mat is done by "Woodland Scenics".










Also by woodland scenics I got some clump-foliage, light green, FC682. 










Plenty of leftover for my other dioramas there too.
Then just to add some color in the botanical trees, I got some "Flowering foliage" yellow color (F176). 










All these from the company "Woodland Scenics" at my local hobby store.

And for a ton of scratch building I got my evergreen scale models sheet styrene of various sizes .25mm, .040mm, 1.0mm.

I need to use the 1.0 mm to build the base for my BSG classic Colonial Viper for a friend.

You can order the woodland scenics stuff here: http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/index.cfm


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

*Starting the Refit - botanical deck*

Well, I'm initiated (literally and in blood) into the kit now.

I'm starting with the easiest part of the kit, the botanical deck.










I shaved off all the conical conifer trees. I'll be placing down the grass vinyl mat and creating the path and making better bridges. 

I know this area is very hard to see, but I really want to go to town on this kit.

It was tricky shaving off those trees as it was hard to get my flat x-acto blade at the proper angles, and it did slip once, causing a jerking reaction and my initiation rite of passage 

I'll have to shave off the trees on that other piece (is that the recreation deck?)


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

*NCC-1701-Refit - Botanical Level WIP*

I am journaling my own refit build on my blog: Sci-Fi Modeling

More work on the botanical level. I wanted it to be a really nice park to walk though with a waterfall. But I wanted to add some small bridges. The base part just had little humps that were to be walkways over the water (2 of them) but I really wanted to add some wooden bridgerailing. There's a very nice park near where I live and I was inspired by the bridges there.










I also added some color to the trees, adding dots of red, yellow and light purple for a nice spring/summer look.

I wanted to add just a tad bit of texture to the walkway. I didn't want it to be a hard surface but a ground like substance like a dirt path.
I need to add some dull coat on the path and keep the water gloss. Also, I need to do something with the walls. Also I plan to get some 1/350 scale figures to give this better scale and depth.

The idea, I thought, of this area would be identical to the way future Holodecks would be. A very nice place to be after a long and hard duty shift.

(click on images below for enlargements)


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Very nice work there Dale. I like the added touch of color in the trees. What did you use for tree and grass material?

Todd


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Very nice work there Dale. I like the added touch of color in the trees. What did you use for tree and grass material?
> 
> Todd


Thanks! 

I used Woodland Scenics.

Specifically clump-foliage, light green, FC682 for the trees with a sprinkle of Flowering foliage yellow F176 on a READYGRASS vinyl mat (summer or spring green).
I guess I could have done any pathway I wanted since I had the mat, but I just copied the design already there.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Cool. Thanks for the info.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Cool. Thanks for the info.


Anytime!


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

*L'Arsenal Figures bought*

I just bought a package of L'Arsenal 1/350 navy figures for my Enterprise refit. These will be good for future kits too.

And yes I'll be modifying the figures for a Starfleet look - actually in their STTMP uniforms.

L'Arsenal figures










Review here

I'm going to attempt to do the STTMP Enterprise with it's bare-metal alloy finish.

:freak: Gasp!! I know, I know, I'm not sure if my head is screwed on right either. 

I'm also going to get the version 2 Enterprise by PL but I'm not going to light that, I'm going to paint that in the battle damaged scheme of the Enterprise right at the beginning of STIII, as it is coming into Spacedock, so I'll have lights "powered down".

I've spent all I really can on this first Enterprise.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

hmm, yeah I shouldn't hotlink. Okay when I get them in and paint them I'll post some images. Sorry bout that.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Well I just got my L'Arsenal figures in. I'm just waiting on Trek Modelers lighting kit before I start anything major. Meanwhile I'll be painting the L'Arsenal figures.


----------



## Dale Jackson (Feb 25, 2009)

Yeah I just got TrekModeler's lighting kit in


----------

