# 9 hp Kawasaki Stuck Tappet?



## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Last Spring my John Deere RX-75 would not start. Just backfired through the carb and made all manner of strange noises. Long story short and many weeks of eliminating stuff, discovered the intake valve pushrod had come off the rocker arm. Put things right, and the mower worked fine all Summer. Got it out to suck up leaves last weekend, and it worked OK for a short time until I shut it off to empty the bags. Now, does not start, same symptoms as before. Off comes the valve cover, push rod is in place, but sticking out farther than it should. Pushrod cannot be inserted as far as it should, and does not move when engine is rotated. Seems as though the tappet is stuck. Anyway to verify? Can it be corrected without a tear down? Anyone ever have this happen? Thanks in advance for any help. Bob in Jersey


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You can lightly tap the lifter back down it could be stuck in that position, just make sure the cam lobe is not up against it, rotate the engine around so that it's at TDC on the compression stroke.

Check the valve also, it may be sticking too.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

The rocker arm and valve are moving freely. I was afraid to strike the pushrod, but I guess I can't do any more harm, so I'll give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I would suggest using a long punch or rod and not the push rod to tap on the lifter with.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

I need to use something longer in any case. I did use a length of tubing to try to fiddle the lifter back where it is supposed to be, but no luck. I will try a slight tap and see what happens, but I think the head is going to have to come off.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Removing the head will not give you access to the lifter. Access comes from inside the engine. You would need to remove the oil sump and camshaft and access the lifter from the bottom.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well, removing the head is more in the way trouble shooting. The head is now off, and it can be seen that the lifter is in it's bore. With the piston at tdc on the compression stroke, it can be pushed back down with a few taps on a 1/4" steel rod. Holding a push rod in place and turning the engine by hand results in the lifter moving out as it should on the intake stroke. However, it does not move back in after a little more rotation of the engine. It has to be tapped back in. I applied a heat gun hoping to free it up, but no good. looks as though further tear down is in the future, since as 30 year says, you must remove the camshaft to get to the lifters. I was hoping that a few cycles of pushing it back in and then turning the engine to push it back out would free it up. Does not seem to be happening.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Stan1949 said:


> Well, removing the head is more in the way trouble shooting. The head is now off, and it can be seen that the lifter is in it's bore. With the piston at tdc on the compression stroke, it can be pushed back down with a few taps on a 1/4" steel rod. Holding a push rod in place and turning the engine by hand results in the lifter moving out as it should on the intake stroke. However, it does not move back in after a little more rotation of the engine. It has to be tapped back in. I applied a heat gun hoping to free it up, but no good. looks as though further tear down is in the future, since as 30 year says, you must remove the camshaft to get to the lifters. I was hoping that a few cycles of pushing it back in and then turning the engine to push it back out would free it up. Does not seem to be happening.


If you can grasp it with a pair of pliers and rotate it in it's bore, you may be able to free it up without a tear down.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well 30 year, you would need a needle nose pliers about six inches long, and anyway there is not enough of the lifter exposed to be able to gasp it. I am going to try heat, WD-40, and cycle it in with the hammer and out by turning the engine a few more times. I will be able to feel if it is loose enough for the engine to run. I'll let you know if successful. Thanks for all the suggestions and moral support!


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

OK, I am sure that the entire forum has been eagerly awaiting the verdict on the stuck tappet. I hope at least one or two! Engine is apart and tappet is out. Careful examination of tappet with a magnifying glass revealed a small burr on the push rod end. Just a tiny dimple, but it was pushed out slightly to the side making the diameter of the tappet slightly larger. I did not mic it, but it could not have been more than a few thousandths. My theory is that the push rod had jumped out of the recess on the end of the tappet again(see first post about finding the push rod off the end of the rocker) and landed on the end of the tappet. This would explain why it was out farther than it should have been. The burr was cleaned up with a file and 600 grit wet or dry. The tappet moves freely in it's bore now. I am just wondering why the push rod seems to want to pop out of the recess in the end of the tappet. Anyone heard of this ever happening? When new gaskets and oil seals arrive I will reassemble and see what happens!


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

I had to disassemble a mess of stuff in the drive train to get to the last bolt that holds the engine on the frame, including dropping the transaxle. Did not pay much attention as to what goes where. Now I need the service manual, a John Deere TM-1391. Anyone know where I may be able to download? Thanks, Bob


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Most JD manuals are only available as a printed manual and not as online downloads and have to be purchased from a dealer. You might check ebay to see if you can find one at a reasonable price.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

That's what I was afraid of. JD wants $45!!!!!!!! I have printed out pages from the parts manual, and hopefully I will be able to puzzle it out that way. Thanks for the post.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

I was able to get a downloadable TM1391 service manual from a website called Tradebit for $6.99. Not as good as free, but it has already paid for itself. Engine is back in and I am working on getting everything back together.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Finally warm enough in my garage to work on the mower. While it was apart I decided to put new belts on. Got the belts on OK, but it seems impossible to reinstall the secondary spring. 
Anyone have experience with the RX/SX 75 mowers that can offer any advice as to how to stretch the spring out so as to be able to attach it on it's "hook"? Am I doing something wrong that is causing secondary idler pulley to be restricted in movement somehow? Or is just that the new belts are stiff and perhaps slightly shorter than the old ones? Thanks, Bob


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

GOT IT! By using the hook on a brake spring pliers(remember those!) to guide it and a large screwdriver levered against the transaxle housing I was able to get the spring installed. Hopefully soon I will be able to try to start the engine. Don't foresee any problem, just wondering if the pushrod will cooperate long enough for me to get my yard thatched before the lawn service applies the crabgrass preventative material.


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## G-Mann (Dec 29, 2007)

I have that same mower. Been mostly trouble free for the 12 years I have had it. New battery & belts and that was it. They are a bugger to work on, even if it is just replacing belts. The Kawasaki 9hp engine has been 100% trouble free for me. I have heard that the Kawasaki FC290V engines these mowers had were top notch back in that time period. You should "check" adjust the tappets every few years or so.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Well, the mower started fine. Engine runs smooth, and once the assembly grease had burned off, there is no smoke. I tried to suck up some leaves, and apparently ran over a stick or some such that knocked the secondary belt off. I was able to get it back on, and the mower ran fine at slow speed. I tried to speed up, and the belt came off again. Put it back on, and decided to put the mower in the shed as it was getting dark, keeping the speed slow. Forgot to bring the mower deck back up, and ran into a tree root. Mower stopped. Raised the mower deck and pushed the mower off the tree root. Attempted to move, got nowhere. Took a look underneath, and secondary belt was off again. Pushed mower to shed! Would it do any good to adjust the speed control linkage as described in the manual? Any suggestions as to why this keeps happening would be most welcome. Bob 

Question for G-Mann. I know how to adjust the valve clearance at the rocker arms; is this what you mean by {"check" adjust the tappets}?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Perhaps an improperly placed or adjusted belt guide. The guides help keep the belt from falling off the pulley, especially when clutched or tension is released.


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Thanks, 30 year. I was busy with my part-time job the last two days, so I have not had a chance to jack it up and take a good look, but I did lower the mower deck and shine a flashlight up in there. The primary belt has a guide, but the secondary belt, the one that keeps coming off, does not seem to have any. I installed new belts while I had the machine apart, and it was the new one that got jammed by the stick or whatever it was, and was damaged. So I put the old belt on, and that is the one that keeps coming off. A friend suggested that it being almost 30 years old, perhaps it is stretched(longer) and narrower than it should be and that is why it won't stay on. I ordered a new belt, and when I put it on I will check the guides.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Stan1949 said:


> Thanks, 30 year. I was busy with my part-time job the last two days, so I have not had a chance to jack it up and take a good look, but I did lower the mower deck and shine a flashlight up in there. The primary belt has a guide, but the secondary belt, the one that keeps coming off, does not seem to have any. I installed new belts while I had the machine apart, and it was the new one that got jammed by the stick or whatever it was, and was damaged. So I put the old belt on, and that is the one that keeps coming off. A friend suggested that it being almost 30 years old, perhaps it is stretched(longer) and narrower than it should be and that is why it won't stay on. I ordered a new belt, and when I put it on I will check the guides.


If it is 30yr old the pulley is probably worn out making it seem like the belt has stretched. Have a good one. Geo


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Thanks for the comment. That's a good point also. I was thinking that perhaps the variator is worn or needs to be lubed and is not closing up to take up the slack when you try to change speeds. Is that what you mean by "pully"? Hope to jack it way up and check things this weekend. May remove the mower deck to get better access.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Stan1949 said:


> Thanks for the comment. That's a good point also. I was thinking that perhaps the variator is worn or needs to be lubed and is not closing up to take up the slack when you try to change speeds. Is that what you mean by "pully"? Hope to jack it way up and check things this weekend. May remove the mower deck to get better access.


The "V" pulley wears on the sides over time, as the pulley wears on the sides the belt moves farther down the groove it will eventually either become very loose or will bottom out where the belt will not touch on the sides but will ride on the bottom, normally the belt is assumed to be shot when in reality the pulley is worn out. Have s good one. Geo


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## Stan1949 (Oct 10, 2008)

Thanks a lot! I am sure you are aware of what a b***h it is to get to that pulley! Hope to get a chance to check things this weekend.


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