# TJET NOS chassis



## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

I want to buy some Original Tjet nos running chassis. I have noticed that there are several variations such as Hot Rod, Lighted, Truck, Wild one etc.

I know the rims/wheels may be different, but are there other performance differences? For instance, generally speaking are the standard chassis faster than the lighted ones? Or does one type of chassis outperform all the others?

Also, would be happy to get any recommendations on where I might buy these from. I'll probably be buying around 10 or so.

Thanks for any insight you can provide.


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

Typically the Wild One or Tuff one chassis are on average faster (silver pickups, silver brushes). But you can find standard chassis that are faster than some Wild One or Tuff Ones chassis. Lighted are slower because of the power pulled from the track to light the light.

Others with better knowledge will follow shortly!


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

My " Best chassis" have been the truck chassis aka dune buggy chassis you have to swap out the wheels but in My OPINION they are best followed by the lighted chassis. although recently i have found some suprisingly fast X-mas tree chassis .
Clyde-0-mite


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

As bobwoodly stated, the Wild One or Tuff one chassis are on average faster than the standard TJet. However, I've had some standards run as well or better than those with a little tweaking here and there. And i've had WOs and TOs that just never lived up to my expectations based on other WOs & TOs that ran well. Still loved the pancake chassis anyway! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

It's all relative to your tuning skills.......

Jim Sgrig


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*I'll have to second this...*



tjetsgrig said:


> It's all relative to your tuning skills....... Jim Sgrig


Tas.. I've gotten all of the types of NOS t-jet chassis you mentioned under bodies over the years that were basically just there taking up space to apparently "make the car a complete car". Some were on face value complete basket cases. Upon closer inspection many didn't even look like they would EVER run, much less turn a full lap on the track. With minimal clean-up though and a few parts off the shelf, many turned out to run better than brand new NOS chassis that were never run before.  For me that's the beauty part and a lot of the appeal of the NOS t-jet platform. Give me your tired, your crusty, your rarely oiled chassis yearning to run free ! ! ! 

My .02 is that if you see a good deal, regardless of which NOS type they are... *grab'em*. I'd steer clear of AW, JL, and Model Motoring at first. There's plenty of time for those. Maybe first get some NOS experience under your belt and you'll learn to break them down and sort through them. You'll find what most of us find and "that" is for a 40 year old toy... they're survivors. Matter of fact get a couple of each and develop your own favorite(s). Each one will have it's merits and even faults. You'll be able to enhance and correct those. Pretty darn cool to find out all the ways there are to make the little bastages scream. :thumbsup:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I am not sure I understand the phrase " brand new NOS chassis ". the letters NOS quite usually stand for New Old Stock. meaning it is OLD and has been a round for quite some time but is still brand NEW as it hasn't been USED in any capacity. if someone advertises a rebuilt or refurbished t-jet chassis as NOS, that is a misrepresentation and incorrect description. a newly built chassis created out of never used original stock parts could also be construed as New Old Stock because the parts had never been used/played with. 
some correctly labeled NOS chassis can be total duds. I have had several unopened cases of New Old Stock Aurora t-jet chassis that contained an occasional incomplete chassis or one that didn't run well. but out of 500+ chassis from those unopened original cases, only four were in less than pristine condition. 
I think some people are thinking that NOS means all original parts regardless of condition.
that is not what NOS usually means
and in the instance of buying from someone unknown to you, it is better to ask what their definition of NOS is before committing money. 
or maybe even from someone that you do know!


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

My definition of nos is New old stock. I still have some for sale 5 nos lighted chassis for $65 shipped,and fellow hobby talkers have bought many from me.


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## SuperFist (Aug 7, 2005)

*clydeomite*

This is correct.



clydeomite said:


> My " Best chassis" have been the truck chassis aka dune buggy chassis you have to swap out the wheels but in My OPINION they are best...
> Clyde-0-mite


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

brownie374 said:


> My definition of nos is New old stock. I still have some for sale 5 nos lighted chassis for $65 shipped,and fellow hobby talkers have bought many from me.


Many many many lol. Thanks bro


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## GOODWRENCH88 (Feb 3, 2009)

brownie374 said:


> My definition of nos is New old stock. I still have some for sale 5 nos lighted chassis for $65 shipped,and fellow hobby talkers have bought many from me.


I have bought a lot of Brownies chassis. I have forgotten how many. Not 1 has disappointed me yet. NOS means all brand new as in never used. However I have to give all my cars a couple of laps before sending them out and I still use the NOS in the description. This may not be correct, but I don`t want to send out a defective item. Tinkering with them is the main difference in performance and supposed to be part of the fun. :freak:


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Sorry...*



alpink said:


> I am not sure I understand the phrase new NOS


 I'm not nearly as well spoken or pleasingly articulate as I probably should be. God forbid I should mislead anyone with my puzzling tripe.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

nuther Dave, please, I wasn't trying to single you out or diminish your participation. indeed, I think your advice was spot on. I have seen many describe NOS in terms that I didn't recognize and thought i would take the time to give my opinion.
I would hope that you continue to contribute here as your insights are valuable and enjoyed by many. 
perhaps my timing wasn't good and I apologize for any insult I have made. I certainly don't want you to stop rendering your opinion, advice or talents.
there is absolutely room for everyone here and I do enjoy reading and seeing pics. 

sorry man, please accept my apology?


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Tomaytoe... Tomahtow...*

... It's all good. The symantics are not worth belaboring. Make sure you get Aurora Thunderjet Chassis for your first batch and don't sweat the specific type so much. Steer clear of the newer non-Aurora incarnations, for now. Start with the gold standard and get your feet good'n wet. Once you can tune a piano... _then_ you can tuna fish. As far as which ones to buy? I personally would not pass up a good deal on 1 type of Aurora t-jet (used or new) for a more pricey type (used or new). The extra spent does not necessarily yield a "better" or "faster" chassis. Some of my very best came to me seized, blackened, and green with oxidation. A few simple cleaning procedures later... you could signal a plane with them and you'd be hard pressed to find any smoother.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I will take any and all Aurora chassis, regardless of condition. Like Sgrig stated it's just the amount of tuning skills you have and how long your willing to tweak on them, Heck I am almost to the point where I will also take any JL/AW chassis and be able to make a good racer from those as well, but they seem to take more work and parts to setup correctly.

Boosted


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*"Rejets"*

Unless you opened the case there's a really good chance they've been cherry picked. As each person keeps the keepers, the remaining chassis get average very fast. By the time Joe Average weeds through them the performance drop off is significant when compared to the top 20% of the original case.

Regardless, there aint a one of them that doesnt require some cajoling to even get them to sputter or squeak. They are all just cores whose future is yet to be determined. So the only good T-jet is actually a "Rejet"; whether its NOS or piece mealed from Gramma's attic.


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Not everybody cherry picks I open the case and sell em!


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## Mexkilbee (Apr 17, 2008)

A clean chassis is the best chassis! I have had great success with lettered chassis and top plates, I also like the 3,7,8 chassis. I dont know if it's true with others out there but I was told to stay away from the #2 chassis, when I went thru my runners and pulled the "dogs" out, they where all #2 chassis. (I was told the #2 has deffect to them, what it is...? ). 
I can make any chassis fast, with these I have listed, it takes less effort, grater gaines can be made performing the same operations than other chassis. As far as the top plates are concerned, I look for the ones with the flat idler gear post rather than the rounded ones. 
When buying a used chassis, I make sure the comm brush springs have not been boogered up. (also no marks or cuts that would DQ it from a race.)
Oh yeah, the pick up shoe hanger/pan. I like it when there is a little gap between them and the chassis so that they can swivel a little for shoe adjustment. ( i have some that have no adjustment cause the pan/hanger is up tight against the chassis that are just as fast, I just like being able to adjust the shoe out for some tracks).


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