# NX-01 PL 1:350 - colors and paints.... please help! ;)



## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

Hi folks, I have a few questions about colors and paint for the Enterprise NX-01 1:350 Polar Lights. I am seeing that priming and painting are normally the first steps, so...

-Do I need an airbrush? I don't have one, and never used one. I am highly artistic though and very particular about my work so I won't be rushing anything. It looks like some people do it with spray cans? Does that work?

-What kind of paintbrushes do I need for the smaller parts or are these sprayed/airbrushed too?

-What colors of paints have people been using for primer and for the actual paint job? I like the ones where the modellers say they use gunmetal and bronze because I like the golden tone in certain lighting that actually looks silvery-grey in normal light. Does anyone know what I mean? Of course I want it to look as much like the CGI from the show as possible. Looking for suggestions for the paint colors to choose and if spray cans are good enough? The explanations on several sites are usually pretty good but sometimes the finer details are lost in the experience of it I suppose and may get left out so the newbies need a few pointers to get them moving along.

I also plan to do minute weathering on the hull, but nothing drastic, just slightly weathered, and I do plan to pick up some Acreation decals for this build.

I can get a lot of the information I need from the forums and the builds of others but anything is helpful to me. Please and thank you. You have been great so far and thanks again for the advice thus far. 

Basically I need to know what to pick up at the hobby store for primer for the parts... paint (colors specifically and brands - and possibly paint types because I am reading that it matters (i.e. acrylic, enamel, lacquer) what kind of thinner, cleaner, do I need an airbrush or brushes or cans of spray paint? I know the hobby store close to me is called Great Hobbies and they have Tamiya spray paints but I am not familiar with any of them. They look like spray cans to me online.

Also why do people spray paint the inside of the ship dark grey? Is it to stop the hull from "glowing" when lighted? Then a coat of white to increase the light's ability to bounce around inside the hull of the saucer? I hope I am close here.

I guess the other question I have about the paints is this semi clear red paint that people use for the bussard collectors on the nacelles. Is that some special paint and can anyone possible help with that one too? (UPDATE! Found this one at the hobby shop!)

To anyone who has done this model and is willing to help me make a list to take to Great Hobbies I will be so happy and appreciative. I plan to record my progress with all of this as I move along. Right now the model is on the way and I really want to get started with the painting when it comes so I can use the drying time to order the decals and the paragrafix stuff that I need.

Happy Modelling. 

-Josh


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

UPDATE: I have been the hobby shop and researching air brushes. I don't think I can do this right without one, and definitely not the weathering I want to do. As for the colors and the right mixes, I'm still a lot confused, although I have based the color I want the hull to be on a WW2 bomber...a flight aluminum surface like the unpainted B-17 and B-29s of the period, just maybe not so shiny.

Thankfully there is a kit at the hobby shop of one of these bomber planes and the box listed the colors used in it, which seems to match what I want from the sound of it.

If anyone has any idea how to mix these for an effect that looks like this... 



 (time index 12:51) please chime in with your expertise on how to mix these up. The guy on the video is from TrekWorks "Boyd" is his name I think, and he is not using hobby paint he has automotive paints and quite a lot of experience with them, so I will have to go a different route for paints but this is what I have come up with...

I think these are Tamiya paints... 

Aluminum TES-4677
Brass TES-4672

Please help... thank you.


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Well you seemed to have answered your own question about the air brush. My answer would've been that whether or not an airbrush is a requirement depends a lot on the paints. For the NX-01 I've used Metalizers or AlCad II, both of which are air brush only. Scalemodeldb.com had some excellent paint references, as far a matching one manufacturer's colors with other colors, but the site seems to be down now.

Those TES numbers aren't Tamiya, they're Testors stock numbers for Model Master Aluminum and Brass as you stated.

I hope this helps.


Best,
Bill


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

Yes, I had the names mixed up with the brands. Just getting my feet wet here. 

Any idea how to mix these? I suppose you need to mix it all the same way (and more) before applying so there is some left for touch ups. Any idea how many bottles of this Testor stuff I would need for this project?

I am under the impression that you need quite a bit of thinner and you don't really use much of the paint. Any thoughts to help clarify that?

Also for priming the parts, I see people using a dark grey and wondering why that matters. Boyd from the video i posted for color reference does his in black. What difference does it make if it is in the inside of the ship? Is it a matter of dull versus bright lighting when the ship is lit up?

Thanks!


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## larskseme (Sep 2, 2014)

Josh B'Gosh said:


> Also for priming the parts, I see people using a dark grey and wondering why that matters. Boyd from the video i posted for color reference does his in black. What difference does it make if it is in the inside of the ship? Is it a matter of dull versus bright lighting when the ship is lit up?


If I'm understanding you correctly, you're talking about the inside? I painted cheapo black spray primer on all inside sections for light blocking and then a few coats of flat white. The flat white really seems to diffuse the light from the LEDs so that it spreads evenly through the ship, rather than some hot spots here and there.

If you're new to lighting, I found that the easiest way for me to tell where I needed more light blocking black on the inside was to take it outside and (carefully) hold up to the sun. If I saw anything, I added more paint. The areas where there are a lot of grid lines will need more, since the plastic itself is thin.


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

Is that an acrylic paint, the primer? I was looking at Wal*Mart today for some "cheapo" primer and I found Rustoleum Universal flat black. Is that a good primer? If not please let me know the brand you chose and where you got it if you can remember. I'm in Canada so I know our selection is limited as compared to the USA.










To be honest it wasn't cheap at all I think it was over $10 but the hobby shop doesn't carry black for some reason. They have light grey and white for primers at the hobby store. I ended up not getting anything until I could check it out with the experts (you). 

So would you suggest I use the black one from Wal*Mart (pictured) first inside where the lights go and then use the white primer on top of the black once the black dries sufficiently? Or some other brand of black paint.

Thank you!


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

larskseme said:


> If I'm understanding you correctly, you're talking about the inside? I painted cheapo black spray primer on all inside sections for light blocking and then a few coats of flat white. The flat white really seems to diffuse the light from the LEDs so that it spreads evenly through the ship, rather than some hot spots here and there.
> 
> If you're new to lighting, I found that the easiest way for me to tell where I needed more light blocking black on the inside was to take it outside and (carefully) hold up to the sun. If I saw anything, I added more paint. The areas where there are a lot of grid lines will need more, since the plastic itself is thin.


Agreed! Either the sun or flashlight - I have found that on the NX - its any parts that aren't flat, are the hardest to get completely opaque - so focus attention on crevices, raised sections..

I use primer from auto parts stores that works great, comes in many colors


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## larskseme (Sep 2, 2014)

Josh B'Gosh said:


> So would you suggest I use the black one from Wal*Mart (pictured) first inside where the lights go and then use the white primer on top of the black once the black dries sufficiently? Or some other brand of black paint.
> 
> Thank you!


Actually, for the inside since I don't care about sandability, whether it'll peel when I remove a mask, etc, I get the $0.96 can:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ColorPlace-Gloss-Paint-Black/35521858

I think I used a Krylon flat white (cost ~$5) for the white on top, but that's mostly because I had one laying around. It took 2 - 3 good coats of black to cover most spots, but like trumpetpa said, there are a few places that'll need some more attention -- areas around the pins/posts that help hold the saucer halves together, any place where the plastic is thin, etc. For the white, I used maybe two coats. I don't think its essential to get a nice look. You just want it to keep bouncing the light from your LEDs around.


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

One other thing I found the hard way - if you plan on using Testor's metalizer paints at all - they say not to use primer, but to spray directly on the plastic. I know you are talking about inside for light blocking, just make sure not to get any primer on the outside painting surface if you plan on using metalizer


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## SuperDave321 (Mar 10, 2015)

I hope I can offer a bit of useful advice. It sounds like you are preparing and about to embark on a mission that can last the rest of your life. I haven't modeled a SiFi subject in many years but doubt anything has changed other than some better lighting equipment. 

I do however use an airbrush almost daily for about 40 years of modeling. Some guys are artist with a rattle can (I am not) but I think an AB is way easier to master. I'm a control freak when it comes to paint. 

My advice is to try an AB. There is a learning curve but it's not bad. Learn an AB and you'll never go back. I have high end and ElcheapOs and the cheap ones are 98% as good as the high dollar ones. Grab the $20.00 AB at Harbor freight or even a $15.00 Finger nail AB from Ebay. For a 1st AB get a suction feed dual action. The paint bottle is on the bottom. Later you can get a gravity feed detail brush with a cup on top. 1st thing to do with it is learn to clean it. Take it apart and clean it. Do that 20 times til you understand how it goes together and works. Be careful when cleaning it as some parts are delicate but if you break something, they are cheap to replace. Spray some water through it. Adjust the knobs and watch how it affects the spray pattern.

Next is to mix paint and go out and mess some things up. Mix it too thick and see what happens. Mix it too thin and see what happens. Not important if it's water or solvent based, the principle is the same, Viscosity. There are no rules, only guidelines. Learn what works for you. 12 inches away, 6 inches, 3 inches? they all work if done correctly. 12 inches away, Use more air pressure and move the gun slowly, 3 inches use less air pressure and move quicker. 

I mostly paint HO slot cars. My choice of paints are acrylic urethane from an auto body paint store. Same stuff on you 1/1 car. I buy them for about $2.25 an ounce. Already cheaper than hobby paint and the I reduce them by 100 - 200%. With this type paint I can shoot a color, 20 minutes later, tape it and shoot a second color. Paint white over black and cover with 2 very light coats. Mix primers as thick or thin as I want and they are ready to work in 30 minutes. They also have flat top coats. Temp and humidity are no problem since they can be mixed to compensate. You'll never see an auto body shop close due to weather. Pigments like a black hole, no light can escape. 

Paints and airbrushes are tools. Learn all you can about them and practice using them. Soon they'll be like instinct. 

Airbrushes need air. A compressor is going to be a bigger purchase. I suggest a compressor with a tank on it. Bigger is better. Get a good one and it will last a long time. I use a 5 horse with a 20 gallon tank that I've had for 25 years. Last year I got a small Senco compressor with a 3 gallon tank and like it too. Don't know how well it'll hold up but it's really quiet. I don't like so called Airbrush compressors. 

Here's an observation. Alclad is some awesome stuff. People say to AB Alclad. I never do. I always use a micro brush with the little ball of micro fiber on the tip and brush it on. Comes out stunning. The trick is to have a perfect base to put it on. A super gloss black base and Alclad looks like chrome plate. I think that may have something to do with other metalizers suggesting to not use a primer. Primers have a rough surface. Primers are meant to bite into the base and allow the paint to bite into them. Want to see a metalizer really pop? Spray some nail polish as a base coat. Even though Nail polish is mostly lacquer based, thin it with acrylic enamel reducer.

Best advice is to have fun. If the AB sprays you in the face, don't give up. The AB isn't really the one who did it. Soon the AB will do anything you want it to.


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

Good tips here. Frankly I don't know the difference between metalizers and paints that just look like metal, but I wrote this one down in my notes to be sure I don't do it this way in error. 

Great airbrush tips too!

I haven't picked up my paints yet, but wondering here... if I bought aluminum and brass and mixed them right is it possible to achieve the look from the video I posted where the hull of the ship appears to be color shifting in different lighting, from silver to almost bronze or golden?

If anyone knows this, I need help figuring out which type of paint to use on the hull (i.e. acrylic?) and how to mix it. I realize there may be some trial and error but I really need someone to point me in the right direction as far as the primer for the hull (assuming i am not using metalizer paint) and then the actual paint itself. Should I be using acrylic for all of these paints? I just really want to make sure I buy the right paints to mimic the effect shown.

Will just mixing an aluminum and bronze paint create this effect? 

-Josh
____________________________________________________
My mind is a blank canvas.


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## SuperDave321 (Mar 10, 2015)

Ok, watched the vid twice. To answer your question directly about will mixing aluminum and bronze create the effect shown in the video, No. It's not that easy. The guy in the video is an expert. A master painter. That alone is 98% of the effect created. A big key is he is using a fine metallic silver. Metallics have small pieces of metal dust in them. They reflect light. Metallics also have a touch of transparency to them to let the light enter and bounce off the metal dust. Also the light source will change the effect. 
Don't want to discourage you but if you've not used an airbrush before, It's going to really be hard to get the same effect as the guy in the video. Don't blame you for wanting it though, it's cool. Maybe do some more research on color shift painting.


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

SuperDave321 said:


> Ok, watched the vid twice. To answer your question directly about will mixing aluminum and bronze create the effect shown in the video, No. It's not that easy. The guy in the video is an expert. A master painter. That alone is 98% of the effect created. A big key is he is using a fine metallic silver. Metallics have small pieces of metal dust in them. They reflect light. Metallics also have a touch of transparency to them to let the light enter and bounce off the metal dust. Also the light source will change the effect.
> Don't want to discourage you but if you've not used an airbrush before, It's going to really be hard to get the same effect as the guy in the video. Don't blame you for wanting it though, it's cool. Maybe do some more research on color shift painting.


Hi SuperDave321 ...Well that's kind of disheartening, thanks for that response though for sure... it helps me to know what is possible and how that effect was created. I knew he was using a different paint, acrylic urethane I believe, which is for actual cars. That is as good an answer as any. I know the kits generally include the suggested colors to use but as you have stated, this particular effect cannot be done in this way due to the lack of metal flecks in the regular paints.

So could metalizer paints possibly do this effect? I am new to all of this, and Trumpetpa mentioned metalizer paints to me already, but I don't really know the difference just yet.

I got a tip from a forum to try to paint a frisbee first just to see how it comes out, which I will likely do, but any thoughts on how to pull this off using something from a hobby shop? Or in the most extreme case could I use acrylic urethane in an airbrush and just follow his mixing technique?

Thanks again for that information about the metal flecks. I had no idea.


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

Metalizers are awesome - they mimic the look of metal, which what a lot of people see the NX as having. Testors metalizers come in buffing and non buffing colors. Buffing means a fine metal dust after you paint, that you buff off with a cloth to make it shine. 

Haven't tried the non buffing yet, since the magnesium color, which is popular as the first color you put down, doesn't come in non buffing. 

You haven't mentioned azteking yet, the whole point of multiple colors is not to mix but to achieve a two tone effect. You put down the darker color first, covering everything. You then apply masks, and then apply the lghtter color, which will cover more area. When done, you have an effect of one color with darker and lighter shades.

I would not suggest azteking as your first try at airbrushing. I am nervous to do it, and I have built a couple of dozen of other models. I wish you luck, I built an NX a long time ago, and got nervous and just did azteking decals, which is another option you have, as opposed to paint masks.


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

trumpetpa said:


> Metalizers are awesome - they mimic the look of metal, which what a lot of people see the NX as having. Testors metalizers come in buffing and non buffing colors. Buffing means a fine metal dust after you paint, that you buff off with a cloth to make it shine.
> 
> Haven't tried the non buffing yet, since the magnesium color, which is popular as the first color you put down, doesn't come in non buffing.
> 
> ...


Cool info, I do have some decals on order but I am still looking at ways to do this with paint masks if possible. Haven't decided. I know i have a lot of research ahead of me yet before I do anything with it.

As far as mixing the paint for the hull I only wanted to do that because of the video I posted where someone mixed paint for the base color of the NX's hull plating and i want to have that same base color. Maybe metalizer paint is the way to go to get what I want or close to it?

trumpetpa, do you know how many colors the hull has on this model? I mean is it one base color and then another one if someone were to do paint for aztecing? Or are there three tones to it. I am looking at the CGI models here and I cannot tell. It looks like three tones to me, but I don't have instructions yet as my ship parts are still in transit.


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

I have always heard of it as two colors, but others might know better.. usually a magnesium, with an aluminum for the lighter shade


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## SuperDave321 (Mar 10, 2015)

There are so many specialty paints out there. There may be a color shift silver to bronze paint somewhere. While I can't say exactly how the guy in the vid did it, If I were to try it I'd start by trying to use a silver metallic base with a very light bronze candy or pearl top coat. Looking directly at the hull will show the silver with it fading to a bronze hue as you look off center. That would likely be a first test and I'd maybe have to alter mixes and colors if I wasn't happy with the result. Most times to get metallics to look good, you must top coat with clear and he didn't show that step in the video. Which leads you to believe it wasn't top coated but he did say he's using a metallic silver. 
Imagine a layer of paint magnified. Metallics have small flakes mixed in. When sprayed in an even coat, some flakes will be near the bottom, some in the middle and some on top of the layer. Magnified it will look like someone threw sand on top of the paint. The way to make it smooth is to bury that layer in clear. Which brings us back to painting basics. Advanced techniques work best when you have mastered the basics. For these types of paint jobs you need to be able to lay down a thin even layer.

Maybe also try to contact the guy in the video. Ask him exactly what paint you'd need. It's an awesome effect.


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

SuperDave321 said:


> There are so many specialty paints out there. There may be a color shift silver to bronze paint somewhere. While I can't say exactly how the guy in the vid did it, If I were to try it I'd start by trying to use a silver metallic base with a very light bronze candy or pearl top coat. Looking directly at the hull will show the silver with it fading to a bronze hue as you look off center. That would likely be a first test and I'd maybe have to alter mixes and colors if I wasn't happy with the result. Most times to get metallics to look good, you must top coat with clear and he didn't show that step in the video. Which leads you to believe it wasn't top coated but he did say he's using a metallic silver.
> Imagine a layer of paint magnified. Metallics have small flakes mixed in. When sprayed in an even coat, some flakes will be near the bottom, some in the middle and some on top of the layer. Magnified it will look like someone threw sand on top of the paint. The way to make it smooth is to bury that layer in clear. Which brings us back to painting basics. Advanced techniques work best when you have mastered the basics. For these types of paint jobs you need to be able to lay down a thin even layer.
> 
> Maybe also try to contact the guy in the video. Ask him exactly what paint you'd need. It's an awesome effect.


Luckily I found him on Facebook and he just posted August 30 so he is still contactable. I did actually find him last evening and messaged so I will see what he says and post it here with his okay, that is if he answers. He seems to be modelling all the time. From what I can tell he is doing commission work building these for people who want to pay for it.

I would rather do it myself of course.  Here's hoping I get a reply.

Thanks to trumpetpa I now have a backup color in case I can't figure this color shift thing out.... magnesium! I never would have identified that as the color but after looking up magnesium on google search this would be an outstanding shade for the hull, and then something slightly lighter for the aztecs. 

I think I may need a few frisbees for this. Good practice for me to sand the rough edges carefully and then paint them, as they look like a saucer and maybe blur my vision and imagine the NX-01....and see what I get!

Better to ruin a frisbee than a $100+ model.


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## Josh B'Gosh (Aug 30, 2016)

I have contacted Doug Drexler directly, he is the CGI designer for the NX-01, and he seems to be a fairly cool and down to earth guy. I asked him to share the color palette on the computer images, and if he answers (fingers crossed) I will just use that because honestly I just want to honor the work he has done by making my model an homage to his awesome work. It is after all what made me fall in love with the ship. 

He has shared a lot of closeups of his design, zoomed in high quality shots that were never seen on the show so people can see the details for this very purpose. So here's hoping with a little luck Doug will see my question and get back to me with the colors he used in the CGI model. I may find them online in the meantime. I guess once I know the colors used on the hull plating I can start to revamp my strategy rather than trying to reproduce Boyd's work (from the video) with a totally different paint type than he used. 

I am not holding my breath but Mr. Drexler does seem to be a normal person and not head inflated by a Hollywood ego. I have seen him in some videos and he really comes off as a very cool guy. I love listening to him talk about the NX-01 and the design of it, and of the refit that has become very popular that bridges the gap between the NX-01 and NC-1701.

Thanks for everyone's input here. Magnesium is a back up because it really DOES look like magnesium to me now that I am aware what that color looks like. Great call on that one.


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