# 5th is first



## crosley (Aug 20, 2010)

Is it unsportsman like to protest the winning car of a race?Or should I put my tail between my legs and run home.Dont want to start any trouble here
Bart


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Howdy:
If you feel you are justified in doing so go for it . Nothing kills the atmaophere more than having a flagrant cheater win and get away with it. In the same breath if the car is deemed legal you need to man up and let teh person know that you appreciate thier ablilties in car building. The USRA had a protest rule that you put up $3.00 for a " buy a Look" and if you still felt the car wasn't legal file a formal protest where you put up twice the car value and if you are right you get a refund of all your money including buy a look and the cheater gets ( at this point it was a armature rule) his equipment taken apart and basically rendered unfunctional ( armature unwound) . I know we are talking different scales here but it is a base line for how this can be accomplished. I would also add that a cheater never learns and will continue to cheat unless caught and exposed. So please do the right thing however you see it.
Clyde-0-Mite


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## blubyu (May 4, 2008)

No it's not unsportsman like,but if there is a tech before the race everything should be fine unless there is chassis swapping going on? Why cheat there only toy cars?


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*wow.*

We tear down the top three cars after a race for a look see.
Just a matter or protocol. 
And the cars are looked over before the race. (Weighed and downforce checked)
wow..

Scott


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## crosley (Aug 20, 2010)

*Wow*

I am not going that far here.And I dont want to get into a peeing match with anyone.No cheaters are involved, but I would like to see how the winning cars win so much.I have raced motor cross,street stocks and go karts and never had the money to put up a protest.I am just racing the slotcars to support my hobby shop and have fun.But I am really interested on what makes those winning cars tick.
Bart


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

There's a big difference between protesting and being curious...

Are you simply protesting because you want to see their car or do you really think they are cheating?

Why not just ask them what they do to make their car so fast? I have yet to meet a racer that won't share what they do to make their cars go, and if they don't, they probably aren't much fun to race with in the first place.

Most of the guys I know would rather beat you with driving skills than an unfairly superior car.


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## ctsvowner (Aug 9, 2010)

If your interested in how to build a winning car "hire" a winning builder to help you with a car. 

I know my building skills are lacking and my racing skills flat our stink. I was thinking of "hiring a skilled builder so my friend and I could be atleast competitive. I don't think there is any shame in wanting to be a part of the lead pack. My losing 100% of the time takes some of the fun out of the hobby I love so much.


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## C.C. Racing (Feb 19, 2010)

PM sent


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Bart ,its in the details,straight axles,lapped gears,body properly mounted matched magnets,and how many times was that winning car was marshalled.You must stay in to win.One off can cost you a half a lap to a lap.Verb or I will answer any questions you have,you just have to ask and any time you want to see a car tore down and teched say so.You probably would be surprised the fastest guys make sure thier cars are legal,I know I do.John or I dont have to cheat to win.


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## bearsox (Apr 22, 2006)

I'm gonna make a suggestion here that hopefully will move things in a better direction . While the group is a good one and most guys make progress on their own ...clearly many can benefit from test and tunes. Groups all over the US do this as ways to help themselves compete against not just each other but other groups and nationally for those who travel. By sharing info and helping each other it brings up the group building / racing IQ and also boosts moral as well as bonding. So perhaps take a few dates and set them aside as dates for test and tunes and do some build clinics and show off how to tweak this and that and watch for the results . Grab a lagger and take a moment to give added time to teach him ! I PROMISE to make myself available to ANYONE AT ANY RACE I ATTEND and will sit the race out to help if anyone needs my help. I've done it before so i'm glad to do it again anytime. Bart if i'm there dude i'll show ya all i can to help.

Dennis / Bear :wave:


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## crosley (Aug 20, 2010)

*Curious*

I guess curious is the better choice of words here, Protest means a whole nother thing.I didnt mean to ruffle any feathers.Just curious.I will just try that much harder now.Just trying to keep it in the slot. Til next time I have a lot of work to do on these little gems.
Bart(crosley)


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## smokinHOs (May 30, 2006)

*Winning cars...*

Cros...

You are not alone.. I think everyone has been there at some point in time. Certainly classes I have had a pretty decent amount of success, while others.. I can't seem to find the handle. As stated above test and tune is huge, and it IS in the details. Take the time to get to know the guys who run well- not everyone will tell you their secrets, but by getting to know the group (or the individuals who WILL talk with you), you can pick up some simple things that will really help out. Some groups will even tear down and list most of the main parts of the top three cars so there is no question what just kicked your butt... :thumbsup:

Be patient, get lots of laps in and enjoy to group and the racing. I bet if you started a thread and asked how many people have won features in their group you would see that you are in good company.

BTW- there is something to take note. Perhaps you DO buy a car from a competitive racer. Initially it won't be cheap, but now you have a good starting point to learn from and use as a baseline for future builds...

-Marc and Marcus


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Brownie, what axles would you suggest? (also, a good source for purchase)
Any info for body mounting?


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Use afx axles,throw the jl/aw crap away or buy drill rod and cut to length and use blue locktite on the crown.On body mounting glue your guidepin in place and mount the body with a little rock,helps handling tremendously!Also at the hobbyshop we allow a 14 tooth final pinion on the tjets.And body choice is open as long as its a hardbody.Bart runs original aurora tjet bodies in fat tire class,the fast guys run fray style bods.We have a racer named Derrick that started not that long ago and was helped when he asked and now he beats me on my own track.And no feathers were ruffeled in the making of this thread.Stay in to win!


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

One of the most important things to slots as far as I am concerned is driver/car set-up. If you give a fast car that doesn't handle to one guy, he crashes and does poorly. Yet another driver may drive away with every race they are in with it. In our club I have taken guy's cars and even if they are not super quick, found the driving style of that particular driver and try to match up his driving tendancies. More brake, less brake, watch how you drive and try to set the car up for comfortability and handling and you will do much better. If you know of one in the club you race with, find out if they can watch you run your car and let them drive it and make some changes and see/feel the difference. It is hit and miss, but, when you "hit it", man, does that give you a great feeling. 
As we say in our club...."Ya gotta drive it" so set it up for you. Try different set-ups and find the feel that is right for you with that class.
Also remember that sometimes slower IS faster
remember.....DON'T DRINK AND DRIVE! you cause more problems for others with your lack of judgement


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## crosley (Aug 20, 2010)

*Thanks Guys*

I am taking notes and really appreciate the comments and feedback.Yes 
I do use the old school stuff,Those fray bodies look so goofy I rather slam a few original bodies til it works.All the stuff I have is old stuff original tjet and afx M/T.Maybe I should stop being so stubborn and get into the 20th century,Umm 21st century.Heck I still have a rotory phone.
Bart


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Brownie & Grampa, good stuff! How about Tomy rear axles?? At this point
I'm getting a feel for building AW/JL T-jets. Our club runs inlines, but hopefully I can get some crossovers to consider pancake racing. How are the later release chassis w/regards to quality?? (less the Ultra G magnet)


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## bearsox (Apr 22, 2006)

*5th is 1st*

*Hey Bart ,
the early Fray bodies were original Aurora bodies like GT40's , Lola GT's , Ferrari 250 GTO's , Mako's and the Dino Ferrari. While eventually more folks moved away from SWB bodies leaving them with Mako's and Dinos those are some decent choices IF you wanted to stay with a Hard Body. As the look is your concern with resin bodies you could still OPT for a lighter weight lexan glass and a original hard body and maintain the look . Or... as racing at Rick's and Parklane may not require glass at all depending on class and rules you can go without glass to lighten . Also another option and maintain look is to get a RESIN Mako or DINO from Bruce at Traxxs here on the board . It keeps the look you want and is lighter in weight plus you can dremel inside without trashing a vintage body. Just a few ideas body wise to help and BTW to lose even more top weight.... trim away as much top plate rail as you can. It's legal and makes the car lighter , lowers center of gravity and makes room to lower your body even more ! Have fun and i'll see ya racin.

Bear :wave: *


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