# 25cc sears leaf blower no start



## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

25cc sears leaf blower no start

25CC leaf blower no start
IAM NEW TO SMALL ENGINE!!!!
-i got compression
-sparks
-no fuel/oil/air mixture

ive try to get seeek over at another forum but no reply. one suggested that the fuel jet is clogg but iono where that would be, i dont have a manual for it.

below are pics of the blower and its carb.

PIC1
http://img228.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013159jk.jpg

PIC2
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013163oa.jpg

PIC3
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013175lv.jpg

PIC4
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013201ck.jpg

PIC5
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013218uw.jpg

PIC6
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013222ly.jpg

PIC7
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013231ij.jpg

PIC8
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013256ke.jpg

PIC9
http://img115.echo.cx/my.php?image=resized10013269vw.jpg


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## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

*another question*

on PIC4, there are two knobs and labeled L (left) and H (right). what is that knob for?

btw, i got this blower from my uncle whom used it for no longer than 10hrs of it. so its pretty new, i also tried to minimize the starting of it so nothing wears out.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

From looking at the first pic, It looks like your primer bulb has a small split in it. If this is the case, you will never get fuel to the carb and never get it to start. If it is split, just remove the two screws that hold it on and take it to a small engine shop so they can match it.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

doesn't look like a split but if it is it needs replacing, also if the engine has set up a while without stabilizer and/or your using old gas you won't get squat but a puff or two. the carb will need a good little clean up if it has set up a while.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

First look into the fuel tank to make sure the fuel hose going to the filter is not broken off. You should one long one with the filter attached and a short one that just pokes into the tank with nothing on the end of it. The lines look fairly discolored and could be brittle enough to break.

Next, pull the purge bulb off the carb and see if the inlet filter is plugged with gunk... clean it with spray carb cleaner if it is. Those are the two major problem areas.

The L & H markings are for the low and high fuel mixture needles. On that carb you need a special tool to adjust them.

Also, how much compression does it have? Those blowers are known to scuff pistons and cylinders quite easily.


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## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

intake fuel fine w/ filter is in good condition. thats a new batch of fuel mixture(i also have gas weedwacker). 

the inlet fuel line does go through two diff hole. one directly to the spacer, the other goes below. both holes are clean and free of gunks.

yes this motor has two scored along its cylinder wall and the piston as i took the head off.

i couldnt remember the compression pressure exactly. let me let it again w/ the guage to make sure. whats the avg pressure for a 25cc?

i got this blower for free so i want to learn more about 2 strokes if this repair can go on. if so, is it worth the time to get up and running?

can someone explain the carb adjustors or do i need to take the carb apart and take some more pic?

btw, this was the third sears blower w/in 3-4 mos.:drunk: he ended up shelling out some money for some Stihl blower.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

should be over 100psi or atleast 100psi. i think that should be a poulan motor. umm to prevent a little wear you can drop some oil mix for the gas, just the oil not oil mixed with gas down the plug hole to lube it when trying to start it. just a little. how long has this motor set up without use, if it has set up for a long time just take the carb apart and blow all the holes out with cleaner and let the carb dry before you put it back together to prevent some hard starting etc. won't take long to take it apart, blow it out good and put it back together. the next time you take the head off, throw a little oil down the cylinder and let it set a while to help prevent scoring. if the motor has under 100psi i'd just use it for parts. actually those fuel lines look pretty good, though a hair line crack will be hard to find unless you bend em around a little, the inlet line most of the time will be cracked and you won't get any fuel to hardly any in through the primer bulb. to take the lines off the carb will be a little hard at first because the first time they are removed, they will want to stay on and you have to work at em to get em loose so not to break em.


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## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

the PSI i got is ~70-75PSI.

i got other two blower thats exactly very similar to that by sears 25cc.

what are some of the precaution b4 tryin to use variation of parts?
-i know upon starting, i have to drop in some oil/fuel in there so it minimize the scoring.

i will keep yall guys posted.

thanks for the help so far.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

You'll never get it to run with compression that low. The bare minimum to make one run is about 95psi, and even then it can be a little difficult. You may try salvaging it by honing the cylinder and re-ringing the piston, but if it were me I would just throw it away.


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## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

what do you think was the main issues of all three blower being broken?

i got other two, ill see what i can salvage.

will keep yall posted.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Should have at least 90 psi to run. Looks like it is time for a new pistion and cylinder. If you decide to rebuild it a couple of things to look for. When you put the piston on the rod, make sure you put on correctly. The ring gap should face the intake port and if you look at the crank end of the rod, the writing on rod bearing should be facing out so you can read it when you put the rod on the crank.

Just shoot a little WD40 or put a little oil in around inside the cylinder before you put it together. That protects it when you first turn it over before the fuel mix gets to the engine. In most cases you can reuse the rubber cylinder gasket.

The only other real thing to worry about is to try and open the high end needle on the carb about 1/4 turn. They really have them set lean to pass EPA and IMHO is just too lean for them to have much life. You might be able to get away with using some very fine needle nose pliers to turn the high end needle. Also, never hurts to mix the fuel about 35:1 instead of 40:1.

If all of these blowers you have look the same, they all use the same piston and cylinder. Most likely all of them need to be rebuilt.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

profuse007 said:


> what do you think was the main issues of all three blower being broken?


 In one word *Poulan*! Over the past years they have had a number of issues. Cylinders coming loose, carb adaptors coming loose, mufflers coming loose, ring groove too narrow, overheating (bad cover design), carb set too lean. In most cases (other then loose cylinder) it caused the piston/cylinder to score.

Last fall I rebuilt over 150 of them myself and our shop rebuild well over 1000 of them. Did two of them today and when pulling parts seen we have 800+ pistons and cylinder in stock ready and waiting to be installed


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yeah poulan, not that poulan is bad now, they've gotten cheaper and cheaper on those small ones. in my respects, i'd use it for mechanical practice or dump it in the city dump. if you want to rebuild it, go ahead and you most likely will get it to run good but its a 25cc poulan, (not a good one) i usually see older poulan engines surpassing the newer ones, mainly due to them not set lean etc. most of the old ones burn up to improper oil mixing anyway. older ones to me were the best.


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## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

ic, ic..... so what are some of the brand (sears....) i should watch out for in the future purchasing on small engine?

what are some of the good ones out there?

on those 32cc sears blower, is it Poulan too?
if so, are they any diff from the 25cc (besides of being diff displacement)?

can someone list a 25cc online parts store?


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

well, my weedeater blower is running still, and i ran the heck outta it the past 2 days doing cleanups, i ran a whole tank of gas through it then filled it up and started again a few times, whole tank of gas through it and it was @!#[email protected]%# hot to the touch, the handle was freaking hot, the sparkplug is STILL WHITE LIKE NEW and it doesnt smoke, the compression is way up there(130ish) and ive run the original oil in it, then pennzoil multipurpose 2 stroke oil, and then i TRIED to change to a different oil and it didnt run a bit right at all, so i drained the tank and dumped that gallon of fuel mix into the van's gastank, then mixed some pennzoil up and filled it up and started blowing, after the crap was outta the fuel system it ran nice and smooth.
i guess it doesnt like homelite oil lol

my uncle john bought a little 2 stroke clutivator, and refused to use the 40:1 mix that it already had, so he got a gascan and gas, used the oil that came wiht it, then went to walmart an got a 8 OUNCE bottle of supertech universal 2 stroke oil and dumped it into the gallon of gas
well, now he is running 16:1 with walmart oil in his new tiller thingiemagig


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

i just went for an hour straight clearing 2 to 3 feet high grass with my featherlite, two tanks of gas going straight, still going strong, but of course i use more oil mix then called for, umm 16:1, he'll be cleaning his spark arrestor screen alot. as for poulan, poulan makes em for sears, and for themselves, featherlite line, poulan line, but i'm not sure what else, the larger ones are better but the small ones now are crap. now as for a good engine, ryobi, which is now mtd owned is still a good engine, you could if you wanted a blower, they make one thats a trimmer, pole cutter, blower, edger, cultivator etc, that use 31cc ryobi engines. most of the larger 2 cycles come with double ringed pistons instead of one.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

For the most part, all of the "consumer" brands have one problem of another. The 32cc blower from Sears is a new model that uses a Ryobi (MTD) engine. Since they are new I haven't worked on any of them but the only weak spot on the Ryobi engine is the lower rod bearings can go bad. It is a new design so I have no idea for there are any other weaknesses outside of the engine.

Overall, the Ryobi engine is more durable then the Poulan engine. We have to do very few rebuilds on them but when the lower rod bearing goes that also takes out the crank which means it would cost more to fix then to replace it.

Now since I'm back into the swing of things I'll have to get out my camera and take a few pics of some of the "interesting" repairs we run into.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

i don't know if they fixed that weakness in em or not though( i just bought one with a new 31cc ryobi engine myself), guess you'll find out when someone brings in a new one. i just got done with taking apart a weeder by sears with well the very same 25cc poulan, and its amazing how it still would run, it was scared badly. piston, everything was scared on up the bore. AND RAN. it was run lean by someone, but for some reason still ran which to me was wierd, and the ring was stuck in place by crud


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I'm just pretty amazed at how some people can so complete destroy something. The best ones are the 25cc Poulans where the muffler comes loose. Even with the extra noise they still run them. The vibration of the muffler first breaks the tits on the cylinder (that hold the muffler in place), then it breaks the crankcase causing the ign. module to rub the flywheel, during this time the crankshaft is rubbing the recoil housing melting the plastic... and they keep running it!!!! Next one I get I'll post a picture of it.


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## profuse007 (Apr 17, 2005)

darn, thats good then. atleast the one youre servicing still run.

ill see what i can do w/ mine. w/ that compression of mine (~70psi), will it able to combust if i adjust the fuel/air mixture?

btw, does that special tool to control the L/H come w/ the blower or i have to run to sears to get it?



bugman said:


> i don't know if they fixed that weakness in em or not though( i just bought one with a new 31cc ryobi engine myself), guess you'll find out when someone brings in a new one. i just got done with taking apart a weeder by sears with well the very same 25cc poulan, and its amazing how it still would run, it was scared badly. piston, everything was scared on up the bore. AND RAN. it was run lean by someone, but for some reason still ran which to me was wierd, and the ring was stuck in place by crud


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

It is doubtful you will get it to fire no matter how you adjust it. Any dealer that sells Poulan products should be able to get you the adjustment wrench.... I am not really sure if Sears sells them.

The Poulan part number for it is 530035560


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

profuse007 said:


> darn, thats good then. atleast the one youre servicing still run.
> 
> ill see what i can do w/ mine. w/ that compression of mine (~70psi), will it able to combust if i adjust the fuel/air mixture?
> 
> btw, does that special tool to control the L/H come w/ the blower or i have to run to sears to get it?


 it was one i picked up quite a while back, the recoil was to hell and well the man ran it lean so i just used it for parts. i think since the ring was crudded like it was it was getting enough compression to start and run, and i mean it was crudded!!. 70psi, you'll never get anything but cuss words out of yourself.


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## Rockie (Apr 12, 2005)

I have the same crafteman leaf blower, it wouldnt start. Took it back under warranty and they replaced the piston, rings and cylander. Worked fine for two weeks then wouldnt start again. Warranty now out so screw it it's in the bin!! Funny though I see they are selling reconditioned models in their repair centre.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

If it is less then 30 days out of warranty or within 30 days of the previous repair it would have been covered under warranty.


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## Rockie (Apr 12, 2005)

Yeah it worked last two weeks in fall. Havent used it since. Got it out last week and problems persist.


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## tincanstan (Apr 24, 2005)

i have the same thing, no compression on a poulan-built craftsman blower.

the cylinder bore looks fine, but the piston ring doesn't hardly come out of the groove at all. i can run my thumbnail over it, and hardly feel a thing.

so i'm wondering if the ring could actually be compressed into the groove and stuck in there by old, gummy fuel? there's a pin in the groove right where the ring gap is, and the gap looks way too small. 

what's the spec for ring gap?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

have you checked the whole bore? the rings should be kinda tight in there and a little free.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Some models of that blower had a problem with the ring groove being too narrow. This would cause the ring to stick. The only way to really fix it is to put in a new piston/ring.

The way I check them to to remove the muffler and turn the engine over so the ring shows in the port. If you press on the ring with a small screwdriver the ring should compress slightly. If the piston is already out of the engine then the ring should be free and easily removable.

The pin is suppose to be there to locate the groove in the proper position.


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## tincanstan (Apr 24, 2005)

sho nuff!

i soaked it in wd40, and then tried to pry the ring out with a razor blade. it came out in two pieces, and they were TIGHT in there.

so i'll pick up a new piston ring tomorrow and see if that'll do 'er.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

It might last a short time. When we were rebuilding them and ran out of new pistons, just changing the rings caused about 90% of them to be returned after a few weeks of use. Needless to say we stopped just changing rings 

Might try sanding down the width of the ring a bit... that could help.


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## tincanstan (Apr 24, 2005)

hankster said:


> Might try sanding down the width of the ring a bit... that could help.



that's the plan. i'll let you know how it goes :thumbsup: 

oh, and thanks for the advice, both of you guys.


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## tincanstan (Apr 24, 2005)

*In There Like Swim Wear*

proud to report that the new ring fit great, motor runs like a champ.


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## Spurgeon (Apr 6, 2005)

*Sears/Craftsman Blower/Vac*

I too have one of these and have replaced the carb with a new one. Still would not run right. On full throttle it would run wide open then back off and run at about 1/2 speed, then pick up and run wide open. Tried to adjust the new carb but seemed to make no difference where you put the mixture screw. 

I am going to junk it. What is the best blower out there? Redmax, Stihl, or the Echo. I am tired of junk.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

all three you listed right there, they are used by commercial lawn services as well.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

If the adjustment screws would make no difference I would guess that you had loose cylinder bolts allowing an air leak.


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## dji (Feb 11, 2005)

My lucky day the Weedeater blower/vac that i am working on today is the same as the Sears in this post...The main problem I thought was the one broken bolt that holds the carb on. I drilled it out and JB weld and re-tapped it. Cleaned the carb except I didn't have the special tool to remove the mixture adjustment screws. Even with some starting fluid I couldn't get it to run..This thing looks brand new but it probably has the same problem as above. I will check the compression next but i bet it will be the problem..


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## dji (Feb 11, 2005)

I checked the compression and i get 90..so it should start..I guess i will have to go buy the tool to try and adjust the mixture screws..


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## shuvel (Aug 8, 2006)

*25cc crafstman*

Hi, 
I had the same problem; engine would kick if i squirted gas in the carb but wouldnt keep running. Tried the carb on a different engine and it ran great. Turned out to be a loose cyl bolt. Crankcase air pulses were not reaching the diaphragm i guess. Thanks to this forum!! (think Hankster nailed it!)


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## jackcolt (Jun 27, 2009)

*sears leaf blower carb adjustment tool*

reading some of these post on the sears 25cc leaf blower . they seem to have the same trouble as me. the blower is runnin to lean. problem is high -low adjustments need a special tool.AHHHHA HERES THE FIX. after scratching my head for a while and trying a number of things to adjust the high low I finally decided that I could grind down a socket of 4mm from a quarter inch drive socket set and presto I have the adjustment tool. I just grounded around the outside of the 4mm to thin out the walls. And when it fit pushed it doen on the high adjustment and turned one -quater turn counter clock wise and presto the thing will idle on its own now.I was tired of taking it back to sears because it would not start. I also learned that I didnt need to prime it.seemed I was always flooding it. hope this helps someone. It did me jackcolt charlottesville virginia


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## SHC-ChelseaP (Nov 19, 2009)

*Sears Save the Sale on 25cc leaf blower*

Please check the cruise control. The unit will not start with the cruise control locked into theaccelerated throttle position. The E-Z fire system will not operate with the cruise control locked on. It is also important
to remember not to squeeze the throttle trigger during starting as this too will turn the E-Z fire system off.

Starting a cold engine
1. Slowly press the primer bulb 6 times.
2. Move choke lever to the FULL CHOKE position.
3. Squeeze the throttle trigger fully and hold through all remaining steps.
4. This unit has the Sim-pulTM starting system. You do not have to pull the starter rope handle sharply or briskly. Pull starter rope
handle with a controlled and steady motion until engine sounds as if it is trying to start, but do not pull rope more than 6 times.
5. As soon as engine sounds as if it is trying to start, move choke lever to HALF CHOKE position.
6. Pull the starter rope until engine runs, but no more than 6 pulls. NOTE: If the engine doesn’t start after 6 pulls (at the HALF
CHOKE position), move the choke lever to the FULL CHOKE position and press the primer bulb 6 times. Squeeze and hold the
throttle trigger and pull the starter rope 2 more times. Move the choke lever to the HALF CHOKE position and pull the starter
rope until the engine runs, but no more than 6 pulls. If the engine doesn’t start, it is probably flooded. Proceed to STARTING A
FLOODED ENGINE.
7. Once the engine starts, allow it to run 10 seconds then move the choke lever to the RUN position. Allow the unit to run for 30
more seconds at RUN before releasing the throttle trigger.
NOTE: If engine dies with the choke lever in the RUN position, move the choke lever to the HALF CHOKE position and pull the rope
until engine runs, but no more than 6 pulls.
Starting a warm engine for the Craftsman 25cc Gas Blowers.
1. Move the throttle lever to the HALF CHOKE position.
2. Squeeze the throttle trigger fully and hold through all remaining steps.
3. Pull starter rope with a controlled and steady motion until engine runs, but no more than 6 pulls.
4. Allow engine to run 15 seconds, then move the choke lever to RUN.
NOTE: If the engine has not started, pull starter rope 5 more pulls. If engine still does not run, it is probably flooded.


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## tramanh (Nov 28, 2009)

*help me plzzzzzzzzzzz*

Was running fine then started losing some power and acting lean. Cannot start normally. Plug sparks fine, the blower will run while I keep pressing primer bulb. Took carb apart and appears fine, not sure if float on zima carb is ok, it moves freely and gas is in float area but does not appear to be getting to the cylinder. I will try to adjust air screws and check fuel filter but do not think that is it.
l]


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