# E-maxx forum



## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

*E-maxx and T-maxx forum*

Suprisingly, there was no forum for the e-maxx on this site. Well, I thought I should start one, so here it is! If you have any questions, comments, or whatever concerning the E-maxx, feel free to post them here!
Edited 9-03
This thread is now for both the e-maxx and the t-maxx. feel free to discuss the t-maxx here.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I recently put together an obstacle course in my backyard. Hopefully I'll have pictures to put up here soon. If I had a way to put up a video of my E-maxx going through it, I would.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

so let me get this straight: you have to stop giving it the juice in order to switch gears?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> *....Hopefully I'll have pictures to put up here soon... *


yes, pics are good. but how do i post them on this without haveing them on a website?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yes, you have to let off the throttle when you shift.
As for the pics, I'll probably just post them as attatchments to multiple posts.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

that stinks.. i guess if you didnt then you would be stripping gears left and right. i watched this vidoe of the emaxx climbing this hill on the traxxas website. i thought you were exaggerating on how much torque the emaxx had, but during the movie, it handled the hill like it was flat ground. i was in awe for a while.. lol


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I am assuming you were either watching the e-maxx movie that had music or the one called "lighting". If so, those were the videos that influenced me to pick the E-maxx over the t-maxx or the lose xxxnt sport rtr. The only problem I have is that with my rocket packs, the battery tub cuts the wires close to the pack. Well, it only cuts the insulation, so I use electrical tape to fix it up. I'm worried it will short one day. Does anybody know if trinity still makes that battery repacking kit?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

actually, it was the "king of the hill" video. however, i am downloading the "lightning" movie while typing this.
as for the battery pack, i dont know what to do. if its just a lip on the battery holder, you could try sanding it down to make it a little smoother. other than that, do a layer of electrical tape then do a layer of duck tape. i would try the sanding one first..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Maybe I'll try that. That's the reason I won't buy nice batteries for my e-maxx. They also get way too hot. same with the motors. when traxxas says the internal fans will keep the motors from getting to be over 20 degrees ambient temp, they were wrong. But I don't run many back-to-back runs with my e-maxx (for lack of batteries), so it shouldn't be a problem.
I went to lunch at the restaraunt across the street from the track I used to go to. A guy and his family were there, and they had 3 t-maxxes! One was totally hopped up: better tires, picco .15 enginen, airtronics M8 radio system, a widened suspension, etc.. Another guy was there with an hpi nitro mt. He was driving as well as I would have. He couldn't stay in a straigh line. I want a nitro lol! I'm thinking of saving a little bit of whatever I make throughout the year and getting one (maybe next summer)


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> *...They also get way too hot. same with the motors. when traxxas says the internal fans will keep the motors from getting to be over 20 degrees ambient temp, they were wrong... *


fans.. fans.. fans... try going to radio shack and pick up some small 12v (or less) CPU fans. take the leads to the fan, and solder it to one of the motor leads. you can try mounting the fan right in front of the motors (if theres room. i dont know). just a little airflow through might be enough to keep it cooler. another thing you could try (risking your emaxx body, though) is drilling holes on the top of the cab and mount a fan to the top (but still inside) so it blows air down. again, either might or not make your stuff run cooler, so no promises. 
oh, and forget the nitro stuff, just get hopups for the emaxx and it will seem the same, but less mess.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

As for the nitro, I like the runtime and of course the sound and all. I can only run the e-maxx for 10-15 minutes and then it takes 50 minutes to an hour to charge both, whereas with the nitro, I can run 10 or so minutes, pop the top of the tank open, fill it up, and go. 
I plan to have pictures by tuesday or thursday.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ya, well, when your dad wont let you get a nitro, you go for the next best thing..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol... My dad has already said that he doesn't want the noise of one. He said I could get one, I just couldn't run in the backy yard or too close to him. At least when he's home. But then again, it may not be too loud. It didn't seem too loud when they were running two t-maxxes at the track today. But then again, I wouldn't get a nitro for a while, so he may feel differently.
Of course, I hear 4 stroke engines are quieter than 2 strokes. I could just ask him to buy me a 4 stroke and all the needed mounting accessories if it bothers him that much lol....


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i thought you said the track nearby was turned into a golf corse; or was that another one?
lol, i know what you mean. im trying to sell my EVST to my dad, but for the amount of money im asking for, he said he would rather buy a new one.. oh well...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I have/had 3 tracks near me. One of them (mile square park) was turned into a golf course several years ago. The other one, the one I went to the other day, is just in a vacant field and not really run by any one. The other is www.socalrc.com . I'm going there tomorrow, but that's not too close to my house.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

lucky! hopefully the city approves the track being built in manteca. then they will be the closest town with a track AND a hobby shop. my friend at school, who runs a traxxas nitro sport (i think, didnt really get a straight answer) said that their is a hobby shop in stockton, but it has high prices. i say, if its within an 20min raidus, its worth it...
so are you going to run your maxx or the evader there?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I'll be running my evader there. I've run my e-maxx there, and let me say it wasn't that great of a racer. It would have been better had my tires hooked up better. But I didn't buy the e-maxx for its racing abilities; I bought it 'cause its a big tired, big everything truck! My first upgrade will be alumium shocks, once I get the money from my aunt. Then, it will probably be skidplates. Then a diff spool, maybe. Or some more aluminum parts.
I think I need some more bricks for my obstacle course. My E-maxx goes right over it! I think my neighbor has some more.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i (hopefully) have an attachment of the track im working on. note: i have a small space to work with and im still working on the design..



or not....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I took my e-maxx to a park tonight. That was so much fun! It was great going down stairs, up and down a slide... The E-maxx thought it was a little kid!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

quit it! your making me want the emaxx even more! dang, i need money!! lots and lots of money!!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol... Ok I'll stop. I'm suprised we are the only people using this thread. Is anybody else out there?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

what do you mean? thats more posts for us! woo hoo!!! anyway..., have you thought of trading your "power wasting" tamiya plugs for some good ol' deans yet? it might be something that would get you some more runtime (i know it did for me..)


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yes, I have considered it. I think I'll pick up some soon.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

hope their cheap at your LHS. it cost me almost 20 bucks to change all mine.. oh well, the people there help me with everything and it was worth it (money wise).


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Smojoe, what do you think the new traxxas truck will be? 
Here are some ideas:
H-maxx; A hybrid (hence the "H") that would have the speed and power and all of a gas truck with a motor for torque.
Mini-maxx; as it sounds: a miniature maxx truck.
can't think of any more name specific ones. It would be neat to see a dual engine maxx, a quad motor e-maxx, a maxx that is bigger than the current ones... anything would be good.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

a six wheel drive, brushless, DUMP TRUCK! that would be tyte! 
but seriously folks..., im not really sure. a mini would be cool. a hybrid wouldent be so cool. who would need both? torque (electric) would be first gear, and speed (nitro) would be second. now a 3 speed tranny; that would be cool!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

They already have a 3 speed tranny for the t-maxx (www.radrc.com, I think), but it would be good if it came stock. How 'bout a four speed? The brushless would be great. But a dump truck?!lol. 
How about 4 wheel steering, 3 shocks per wheel, one or two more motors, a 28.8 volt system, and a manually shifted 4 speed tranny! Ok, so that's just about impossible, but that would be awsome!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

4 speed manual isnt inpossible. just hook a tranny rite after the other tranny, but that would be hard. wait.. that would be a 3 speed. dang, this is hard! dont worry, i'll have a disign by tomarrow nite...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

You could just double the size of the current e-maxx tranny, put o more sets of gears in it, and give the 3rd channel switch four positions to click into. it would be interesting.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

just have two trannys and one servo to control both. you have the first tranny put in 1st, and the second in 1st. then the first in 2nd, and the second in 1st. heres the tricky part; having the first tranny switch back to 1st, while the second tranny switch to 2nd. after that, first in 2nd and second in 2nd. ta da! 4 speeds. but you would need to alter the gear ratio in either the first or second, because 1,2 and 2,1 is the same speed if you dont. all that took me lunch time to figure out :lol: ...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I've got some pictures of my e-maxx. Sorry about the quality. You can only do so much with a polaroid and an inexperienced (SP) photographer (my aunt) Here's the first one: going down the stairs


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

the second one: doing a donut on the baseball field


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

and the third one: just messing around on the same field


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

sweet! how did you post them? i tried the attachment thing but it didnt work for me. that, and my internet is slow...


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

so which esc is the 90 buck one? also, is it reverse? unless your racing, i would, personally, get a reversing esc.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

for about $90 i could either get an lrp ipc pro sport or a duratrax 8t pro racing. for about 10 dollars more i could get one with reverse. i would need 2


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

do you know how the rear turnbuckles (or whatever you call em') are attached? i was thinking about 4 wheel steering, but dont know how to attach and make the servo work. all you would need to do is have a VERY hi torque servo (speed wont matter) and have a short servo arm. the short servo arm would be cool because im "real" monster trucks, the back wheels turn a lot less that the front. man i need an emaxx! i allready have all the hopups/ costom things listed; i just need the car. lol


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

it looks you might be able to alter it for 4ws. 
I finally got some aluminum on my e-maxx! I got a skidplate set (front and rear) from duratrax. Next up is a skid plate under the tranny. Then either aluminum bumpers or shocks. Yes, I know we've both said the aluminum bumpers are overkill, but now that i've got a little aluminum on my maxx, I want more lol!!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

get the shocks, skids, aluminum chassy, and the trophy RC arms. everything else you dont need unless your racing with the big boys...


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

*Stuff*

Someone makes a 4ws kit, just can't remember where I saw it. Megatech makes an aluminum steering drag link for $6-8. Exellent hop-up. Racers Edge makes Ti skidplates, doesn't get much better. Probley don't even need bumpers with them.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I think the aluminum chassis is overkill. If I put a bunch of aluminum under the chassis (which I plan on doing using duratrax parts), it should be enough. Unless any of you guys know of an aluminum chassis under $100.
The 4ws system might have been rad rc. I'll go check.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yup. It was rad rc. They also do 3 speed t-maxx trannies and monster pirate tire adapters.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

that looks sick! only thing is, how does it handle on tight turns or on a slipperey surface? other than that, it sure beats my idea. oh well..


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

*Aluminum T/E Maxx Chassis*

Racers Edge: $75 in blue, silver, red, black or purple.

www.racers-edge.com

They're distributed by HRP, so maybe your lhs could get one.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

they want 130 bucks for this?!?









give me a hunk of aluminum and a dremel and i'll make that for you for 10 bucks.. (im exaggerating JB; not really)


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## Guest (Aug 11, 2002)

I agree, $130!!? Looks nice though.:roll:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Sorry I haven't posted anything for a while. I've been in michigan and i have limited use with a computer.
I have changed my project truck idea. Instead of doing a rock climber, I'm gonna do a jumbo-sized, ultra versitle e-maxx. I plan on getting possibly the ESP mad maxx conversion kit, and I wan't to get the rad rc 4ws kit. the mad maxx conversion kit has clodbuster wheel adapters for extra size, and i would like to get either the hummer body or another pickup body. any suggestions?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

get the trophy arms and put some touring car shocks on. that would be almost impossible to flip! anyway, what made you change your mind? the fact that you dont have any rock around your house finally occur to you? ( :lol: )


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol...
Actually, I didn't want an e-maxx that could only do one thing well. In order to do the best possible rock climber, I would need diff spools. I wouldn't be able to run it on the street or do many normal things with it. doing an e-maxx that is just bigger than most others still lets me run it anywhere I want.
I've ruled out the mad maxx conversion kit, at least for now. too expensive for what it is.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> *...doing an e-maxx that is just bigger than most others still lets me run it anywhere I want... *


i couldent have said it better, JB. however, where i live, im looking for 2 things; run time and how much air i can get off a jump (aka speed). once i get the emaxx (once; not if) im just going to stick with the stock stuff and buy another ultra metal pack. HVs= speed; 3000+mAH = runtime. man, do i love day dreaming.......


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## Guest (Aug 23, 2002)

If you want bigger tires JB, you might look at 1/8 monster hoops. I've seen a t-maxx with 'em, pretty tall.:devil:


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

*Maxx to Clod tire/wheel conversion*

Anyone know where I can get adapters to put Clodbuster wheels & tires on my Maxx? I know ESP makes a nice set, but they're pretty pricey.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

k1m-
go to www.radrc.com and click on the "fatty maxx tire kits" button. it is 125$ for the basic kit, but you get the tires, wheels, and foams along with the adapters.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I think I'll get duratrax nitro quake tires. I've read that they fit, and on rccar action's websight, they have a picture of a t-maxx with them on. looks cool!
I think I'll stick with nicads with my e-maxx. They get extremely hot when I run them, and I don't want to ruin expensive cells.
I might try do a homemade roll cage for my e-maxx. I got the monster truck book from rccar action, and they have an article on making them. doesn't look too hard. I just need new tools. I have a piece of junk $10 30 watt radio shack soldering iron, and they also recommend the use of a torch to clean up the joints.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I found a simple and free way to make my e-maxx look bigger: raise the body! the e-maxx has adjustable body mounts, so I just put them at their highest levels. the thunder quake tires would looks so good with the body jacked up like that!
I need opinions here: I don't know whether to stick with a traxxas e-maxx body (silver or clear, and then painted by me) or another pickup, or if i should get a hummer. let me rephrase that: pickup or hummer. A hummer would look cool, and it would simplify the roll cage. I also like the pickup look, and a roll cage designed to fit the countours of a pickup would look better than a hummer roll cage, which would pretty much be a box.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> *
> 
> ...once i get the emaxx (once; not if)... *


Good for you! the ultra metal packs would work great, as long as you don't fry them. the runtime would be excellent.
I plan on leaving the electronics stock, except for the steering servo and the receiver; I might eventually get an FM radio, and the servo needs more muscle. Besides, If I get a stronger servo for the e-maxx, I can stick the servo from the e-maxx into my evader, almost doubling the power (I use a standard servo in my evader)as for the motors, I'm happy with the titans it comes with. If I did upgrade them, I would go brushless (and not the team orions; something like a Hacker, maybe). I have heard that one brushless motor is more powerfull than the two titan 550's put together. Imagine what two would do! the problem: cost. 2 BL motors and speed controls would run $500 easy. That's too much!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

what? too much!?! you get a maxx truck and dont expect to put 1000s of dollars into it?!? i laugh at that! ha ha ha ha ha! lol... 
get a hitec digi servo. costly, but worth it..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol....
My dad wouldn't let me spend that much on only motors and speed controls, and I would rather spend that money on a lot of aluminum parts


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I took my e-maxx to the park again last night. I finally have end-over-end rolls mastered (there isn't much to master; just build up some speed going down a grassy hill, hit full brakes, let the truck roll, and gas it as it get rightside up) I enjoyed running it in the baseball diamond; the was so little traction, you could hit the brakes and turn at the same time while going full throttle, and it wouldn't flip. Do that on the concrete and it would go into a long string of flips.
Another neat thing was finding a slippery piece of pavement and doing donuts on it. YES, I said donuts on the pavement (Ok, maybe I am going nuts, or I had too much fun doing it!)


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I got the jeep cj8 body for my e-maxx. I made some mistakes painting it, but I had a great time doing it! I'll post pictures when available


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I am changing this thread from the "E-maxx forum" to the "E-maxx and T-maxx forum", so if anybody wants to discuss the t-maxx, do so here!


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2002)

im thinking JB & smojoe should have just been emailing each other instead of posting here! LOL


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

There hasn't been much activity here for while. Does anybody else have an E-maxx?


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

*I do.*

Mine has the stock purple body, with the front window mostly cut out. I've installed Ti hingepins and the PL suspension kit. Also, it has the lightweight gearbox components from Traxxas. I bought the RacersEdge Ti skidplates and removed the "bumpers." Finially, I installed RPM bulkhead braces and an aluminum link from Megatech between the bearing raced belcranks.

I believe the E-Maxx to be one heck of a truck for all bashers but only marginal for racers. I'm a racer. If you're a racer, concider replacing the stock plastic shocks with aluminum bodied ones, and beefing up the universals. Biet with a wooden dowl or CVDs.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

*not yet...*

I have been wanting an e-maxx for a while but the bucks haven't materialized. I have seen several used ones on this BB though. Any thoughts on getting a used E? I love it when somebody comments (more often on eBay) that the truck was adult owned and therefor well cared for! Yeah, right, and I don't beat the heck out of my trucks. The difference between mine and my kids' trucks is that I can afford to replace the busted parts! Buying over the net obviously has some buyer beware potential but what sort of things wear out quickly?

This last weekend I met a guy with an E that he had put Monster Maxxs into and the best I can say was that is sounds horrible! He was having trouble with a variety of parts but it was loud and just nasty sounding. He says that was the Monster motors. Any thoughts on that? I know you have extra diffs and the like that will add to the total noise but do these sound that much different than other single motor trucks? This one sounded like my kid's old Radio Shack truck!

Chris


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

*Used E*

The nasty sound coming from the truck probley came from the gearbox. You mentioned this person had "Monsters" in it. I assume these are the Trinity motors. They have fewer winds ("more powerful") and place more stress on the gears than the stock motors. They seem to loose their power after 4 or so runs. So, the sound is the idler gears, maybe the primary gears too, wearing away. If he were to open his gearbox, I would garentee there would be white flecks and powder that once were these gears, all over the inside. The truck is a tad noisy overall when compared to a 2wd race truck because the Maxx has two gear diffs instead of the a single "ball diff."

Don't get me wrong, this will happen with the stock motors in time also. The aftermarket motors only accelerate wear. Some people (me) will put a lubracant on these gears. I use KryTech by Finish Line. You'll find it in most bicycle shops. Many uses. I haven't opened my box since so I don't know if it slowed the wearing process. I'm sure the gears are a consumable part, like motor brushes.

I would recomend the Maxx to anyone who wants to have fun. I've owned mine for just over a year and have smiled lots! At our track, we call the Maxx class "Elephant Racing." What a blast. However, one racer, a RACER, said that if the Maxx were his first car, he probley not be in R/C since he's replaced many "non-race" parts. See my post above. I've replaced a few, and have not broken the bank.

Hope that helped.

Don


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, the E-Maxx is alot louder than a normal 2wd truck, you got 2 motors meshing against a single spur & 3 gearboxes. 

I bought a used one off E-Bay and had no bad luck. Just make sure you can see pictures of it and look closely at them for abnormalities.

I later bought a New one at the LHS and it sounded the same as the used one did.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yes, the e-maxxes are pretty noisy. I Think I'll leave the motors stock, and upgrade just about everything else. I have plans for new bodies (pro-line hummer militia and caddi escalade). I currently have a jeep cj8 body on it. It turned out pretty good for my first paint job.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

My sons and I race both out E-Maxxes and have raced them against maxxes with the Mod Motors, and while they are fast, ours still have enough speed and actually benefit from going "slightly" slower. Speed Kills! and causes more wear & tear on the truck.

The amazing thing is, I have alot of hop-ups on my truck and my son's only has 2 (Bow ties and stablemaxx wheels) and they are both very well matched trucks against each other. Mine is slightly faster for some reason, but the boy's truck has longer run time.


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## perez1410 (Sep 29, 2001)

*Tunning Questions*

OK, I just got an E-maxx and I am planning on running it at the Washtenaw RC Raceway track. Tom, can you give me some suggestions as of what oil and spring setup should I look into for the type of track and dirt we build ours with? 

Also, I still have the stock tires, and the previous owner cut/shave them down. So will this tires work in the track, or should I consider spending money on new tires....and which ones?

I just got a new set that I won in a raffle at Lazer last Sunday. So I could by another set for the car and be set in tires.

Any suggestions on swaping the steering servo for a higher torque one? I am thinking using the Hitec 5945MG with this specs...
Speed: 0.16 sec/60 degrees at 4.8v
Speed: 0.13 sec/60 degrees at 6.0v
Torque: 152.75 oz/in at 4.8v (9.6 kg/cm)
Torque: 180.53 oz/in at 6.0v (11.4 kg/cm)

Will it be worth the difference in this truck at the track?
Is the terminal that I need for the servo be compatible with the Futaba if I am using the Traxxas original receiver/radio system or compatible with the Airtronics/JR?

Thanks..
Carlos


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Cool Carlos, you'll get a kick out of it!

1. My set up may sound odd, but it worked. I left everything stock and only changed the shock oil and added some spring clips in the front. I ran (and still do) 90wt in the front and 60wt in the rear, it took the nose dive out when braking and cornering.

2. As long as the tires are not shaved way down it will be OK, I actually cut the corners of the tread off of one of my sets (so the lugs were the same height all across the tire) and it helped reduce rollovers when cornering. If you want to put new tires on, get some RPM stablemaxx rims for it, they are worth it.

3. A higher torque steering servo would be recommended. I changed to a Futaba 9402 in mine and a 9404 in the kids truck. I takes some of the "mushy" steering feel out of it.

4. The Traxxas shifting servo plugged right in to my Futaba reciever with no modification, so it would stand to reason that a Futaba servo should just plug in to a Traxxas receiver. I would recommend changing to a 75 band radio for more frequency choices, I run both of mine with Futaba 3PDF's.

I'll look forward to banging tires with you this winter!!


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## perez1410 (Sep 29, 2001)

When you changed the oiled in the front, have you had any trouble blowing the plastic shock caps? I hear they are very weak in nature.

I installed 50wt in the front and 45 in the rear. BUT the nose diving is still there. I was wondering how much higher can I go in weight of oil before it is too much for the shock caps. Also, I am considering getting stiffer springs for the front and standard for the rear.


Last night I installed the lightweight aluminum main driveshaft and lower shaft with idler gears..... for less rotational mass.


Carlos


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## groundhogg (Sep 25, 2001)

I'm running 60wt AE oil up front, 50wt AE oil in rear. I've had no shock cap problems. But then I don't jump off roofs and stuff either.
I bet the people blowing caps are hydra-locking their shocks when they build them. 

I have the IMEX Baja tires on mine. They are the lightest tire available. And they've held up and handled well on all surfaces. But I ran Dan's stock tires for a couple weeks and they worked ok too.

Robinson racing Slipper clutch....get it. Probably the wisest $20-&25 you can spend on this truck.

If I were you, Carlos, avoid the Hitec and get an Airtronics or Futaba servo. Consider it an investment in peace of mind. I've not had a Hitec servo that works longer than a month or so without losing center. I'm running a Futaba 9303. Tommy's right about the 75MHz change.

Don't bother with the aluminum crap (except maybe bulkheads). It just makes the truck heavier (not good if yer racing) and if you bend an aluminum part your bummin'.

I think we should set some rules forth for the E-maxx class this year, Carlos. Unless you want it to just be an unlimited class. The stock motors are good for speed and more durable than the mods people are using. I guess it depends on what you want the class to ultimately be like. All out money game vs. budget spec class. I think the kid buying one off the shelf shouldn't be outclassed if he wants to come race with us.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

With the heavy weight oils in the stock shocks on both trucks I've only blown 1 cap, and that was on the rear of the kids truck when doing hieght/distance jumps (yeah, we were abusing it hard!). so I don't see any problems with the stock units if you're not doing mega jumps. I did buy the Dynamite shocks for my truck, Losi style with threaded shock bodies, pretty cool!

Put stiffer springs on and you may not need the heavier oil, but it may get bouncy, don't know. It's all trial & error, My set up works for me & the kids, Jessie's works good for him, we seem to be pretty evenly matched on the track, It's the drivers rythum that seems to win out more than truck performance. It seems like Jessie & I couldn't get "in the zone" at the same time in MEXORS, so either he won or I did, I hope we gan get "in the zone" at the same time at Washtenaw, I think that would be an awsome race if we can!

We all need to compare notes and see what parts we need to carry to keep us running. I have a pretty good assortment (leftovers from hopping up mine, and other parts) to carry along so I'm pretty well set. But we'll figure it out.


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## perez1410 (Sep 29, 2001)

Great Tom, thanks for the input. I will bring my parts too, whatever I upgrade and swap out, I will have with me for spares...


Carlos


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, if it ain't worn out, don't toss it out, it might come in handy!


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## glassdoctor (Apr 11, 2002)

*Hitec servos*

I have had good results with my hitec servos. I raced mod class with a 525BB in my losi buggy for two years with no trouble. 

I have a Digital 5945 in my 1/8 scale buggy and it's been awesome. 

One word of caution, though... it may be better not to use a digital servo in the Emaxx because they draw more amps and the EVX seems to have a weak BEC. My brother put a new digital servo in his Emaxx and the EVX stopped working almost immediately. Throttle is dead, but the steering works... go figure.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

im baack!

i see this thread sort of "died," so maybe me coming back will spark some new visitors.

the only thing new to say about an e-maxx is that i am eagarly awaiting x-mas to open the one under my tree.

come back JB_the_evader! we have a lot of catching up to do!

-smojoe


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

All right! lets get this thread going again. First off, welcome back, Smojoe!
Here's my list of upgrades on my e-maxx:
pro-line cadillac escalade body
pro-line maxx suspension kit
2 team-orion 3000 mah rocket packs
duratrax silver front and rear skidplates
hardcore (or dynamite; cant remember) center skidplate
tamiya terra crusher tires/rims
And here's a list of possible upgrades (I'll know Christmas morning)
hitec lynx 3d
dynamite aluminum shocks
pro-line chevy suburban body
pro-line front and rear bumpers
I took my e-maxx to socal rc raceway a few weeks ago. It handled pretty well and managed to clear all of the jumps if I did it right (except the triple; it couldn't go far enough.) It was kind of cool; my maxx got more attention the the other trucks with just about every high end feature (heck, one of the guys that had a super-pricey truck thought my e-maxx was cool!) Another nice thing is that people tend to get out of my way in the slower parts of the track . A collision between a 10 pound truck and a 3 pound buggy can't be too pretty (entertaining, maybe, but not pretty.)
Come Wednesday, smojoe, you'll experience the joy of an e-maxx.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

OK, I'll go thru my list of Hop-Ups:
Pro-Line Suspension kit
Duratrax Purple shock set
Duratrax Purple aluminum steering linkage
Robinson Racing slipper
MIP CVD's in the rear
MIP CVD center rear
HiTec HS945MG steering servo
Futaba 3PDF radio & 3 channel receiver
RPM Purple skid plate & bulkhead set
RPM Front & Rear bumpers
Pro-line Bow Tie tires
Parma Dodge Ram Body
Sanyo 3000HV's


Hoping to get a set of the Pro-Line 40 series tires & rims to try out.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB-
how does the pro-line suspension kit work with (im guessing you still have it) the stock oil and springs? also, i thought u had a jeep pro-line body? lol

my only "pre run" hop up would be my trinity ultra metal packs


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

The pro-line kit works really well with the stock setup. I have the top of the shocks on the outermost positions, as well as the bottom ones. Really firm and good for jumping.
I also have a jeep body (its my climbing body). After painting a few bodies, I reallized I really enjoy doing so. As pathetic as it sounds, painting up a lexan shell is the most artistic thing I can do (my regular art tends to scare people.) I just finished my best body yet a few weeks ago. It was for my evader. Really nice five color design. On another note, its almost like getting a new truck (at least visually), but for a fraction of the cost.
The ultra metal packs should run real nice. I've run one of my ultra metal packs with a friends reedy r3k pack. Excellent power. If I get the money, maybe I'll eventually spring for a pair of ballistic-matched batteries. I hear they're about as good as you can get for the e-maxx.
Only 2 more days Smojoe!
(watch, the big box under the tree that looks like an e-maxx will end up being a really a big box of socks, lol.)


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2002)

i have had my emaxx for about a year and a half and its really fun, but i have only used it about 5 times. i have about $600 worth of hopups and extras for it.
i would like to sell it but i will never get my money back out of it. the truck is in mint condition since i just dont make time to drive it.
im to busy working on my touring car and my buggy and truck so the maxx is just sitting there.  
maybe things will slow down where i can get some use out of it again but i doubt it, i should sell it and let it go to a good home!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

"just look at all these tube socks!" (said by willy during the springfield riot)

i hope not, because i picked out and ordered it myself from tower...

oh, and its only one day, its a family tradition that we open presents the night of christmas eve (dont even ask me why)


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well Northerner, look at the bright side, At least it's not getting worn out! I have more than $600 into mine and race it every other week (and have a blast doing so), but mine is more worn out than yours...


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

woo! no tube socks! did get a nice pair of bike ridin' gloves though...

well, its everything u said it is. wheelies in 1st, rockets in 2nd, and just plain looks cool. im happy! merry christmas, ya'll!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Sweet. I got a hitec lynx 3d and some battery building equipment, but the fm receiver isn't compatable with the plugs on my emaxx, and I didn't get a battery jig, so i can't build any yet. Too bad the lhs is closed today...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Got a new set of Maxx Mashers for mine, the bow ties have about a year on them so the new ones should be cool. Also got a couple tools and a new soldering iron, the rest I bought for myself ( 2 3300 batteries, 2 GM powercharger battery chargers, 2 back up Titan motors, and some other odds n ends for my Losi trucks).:thumbsup:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> * ...but the fm receiver isn't compatable with the plugs on my emaxx... *


the stock plugs are futaba style, right? if you look at the plugs, do they have two little lips on, i think, the white wire side? if so, just take an exacto knife and cut off the lip that extends down (but be carefull! i dont need to hear any bad news!) and i should fit in the hitec style holders. if all else fails, just take it to the hobby shop.

and i dont think i need the PL widemaxx thing. my E has the new "traxxas widemaxx" that they put on the 2.5 T, along with the new, stronger, sliding universals.

and last, how good do the stock tires hold up? im going to my LHS soon (i hope) and i was wondering if i should grab a new set of tires there or just glue on the stock ones?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

The stock tires hold up pretty well. If you run on pavement a lot, it will start wearing on the side of treads a little faster than normal, but the treads themselves won't wear down.
If you do get new tires (and not racing treads), I would go with maxx mashers, or you can get some tires off of a different mt. I have terra crusher tires on mine, and compared to buying regular maxx tires, they were cheap.
Pro-line masher tire: $25-30 a pair (I think)
wheels (any brand): $10-15 a pair
Glue: $3-5
My tamiya tires:$30 a pair (that includes the tire already glued to the rim.)
You don't need the pro-line kit with the widemaxx suspension.
I thought the plugs were futaba also. I checked a plug from a futaba servo and it fit fine, so traxxas plugs are like, but no exactly, futaba plugs. I used a dremel (also a gift) to shave the material down. It Fit!
Awww, not tube socks? I thought maybe I could get a great deal on them from tower hobbies.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i was doing a little reading on the Hitec 3D. not to shabby of a transmitter for the price! and im glad you got it working, so give me some info on how it works soon.
i guess I will stick with the stock tires for now, but once i can get my grubby little hands on the money, its PL "Big Joes" for me..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

The 3D works really well. I think it's (about) the best bang for the buck. It fits my hand really well. I haven't really had a chance to test it (batteries have been failing me), but it should give good control. The programming is hard at first, but once you get the hang of it, its easy (although I still have problems with the abs feature). The shifting could be better (the buttons are hard to reach while driving, but i'll get used to it).
Big joes? Sweet.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

or a new steering servo. i replaced the stock one with the hitec from my evader. it had 30 oz./in more torque, but it still doesent have what i need. i might have to go digital to get what i want out of a servo.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Well, there is an airtronics servo that has 200 oz./in. of torque. Hmmm.... 4ws and 2 of those maybe?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

my hitec seems to be working fine. the servo saver got busted (somehow) so i replaced it with a regular servo arm. runs great now!
i made a custom wheelie bar out of some stuff from an old printer. the epoxy has to dry overnight so i'll give you the 411 on it in the morning.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, its dry, & seems very tough. didnt have time to give it a good test because i have been helping family out. however, i will give you info tomarrow, unless my family planned me to do something with them...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

A wheelie bar out of an old printer? This I must hear.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i used the paper intake rod with the little rubber, lets call them, rollers. it ended up something like this (using text, at least..)
((()))-O--((()))--O-((()))
the ((())) are the rubber rollers, the -- is the rod, and the O are the mounts i glued to the bumper. it works, and thats all that matters.
was raining mostly today, so i disassembled the two speed tranny. pretty ingenious..


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

bad news. while i was running the E in a field, i guess the wheelie bar got stuck on something, and it broke off. next thing to try is bolting it on somehow... however, it didnt end up as bad as my dad's plane. he broke a prop and a gearbox on a hard "landing." :lol:


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*E-maxx Steering*

Hey all,

I have 1 of the new wide Emaxx's. I already replaced the steering servo with a Hobbico that has like 30-40 more oz. of torque. Seems OK, but then the other day it just quit turning on way (left I think). I am gonna tear into it and see what's up.

Anyways me emaxx sits as follows so far:
WideMaxx Emaxx (lowest ride Height w/ max suspension travel)
Proline PT Cruiser body (painted metallic blue)
Proline Maxx BowTie
RPM Bluechrme Clawz
RPM Blue Skid plates (3 piece)
RPM Blue Rear Bumper
Hobbico HS-71 (steering servo)


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

SilverEvader,
i was looking at the RPM skids a while ago and noticed that it looks like they only come up about and inch or more in the front and back (at least in the pics on towerhobbies). is this true or do they come up as high as the stock ones?



and we just reached the 100 post mark. woo hoo! :hat:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Smojoe - You are right. I have them on my Maxx and they only have a rounded up edge about 2/3 inch. The instructions say to install them over the stock skids, which is what I did.


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## Santa_Claus (Jan 4, 2003)

1


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

anyone know if the 32 pitch, 66 tooth, kimbrough spur gear for the tmaxx will also fit the emaxx?


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Steering Update*

Well I'm still not sure what was binding where. But, it is fixed. I installed an aluminum Dynamite Steering Bellcrank set, used bearings instead of the bushings. Also rechecked everything from the pivot balls to the servo saver. Turns like a dream. 

Last nite I tore down the back half off the truck and replaced my rear diff with a Traxxas Spool. Will try to get out to the track today and see how it works. I know these are normally used for pulling. But I am hoping to get the rear to slide more in sharp turns.


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Smojoe*

I haven't seen that particular spur gear, but it is the same size as the stock emaxx gear. If you have seen one, does it have similar mounting holes?

Here is a link to the 
Kimbrough T-Maxx Spur 

Looks good to me.


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## tgburnett (Sep 28, 2001)

*Light weight wheels?*

I am in the process of freshening up a used E-MAXX for my daughter (and myself!). It may be run in a dirt oval race or two (my reason!). I read here that the IMEX Baja tires were the lightest available. What wheels would be concidered light weight too? I was also planning to put the Pro-line skid panels on it, but now am after reading one of the earlier posts, I'm kind of discouraged to think that they must be placed over the original TRAXXAS parts thus adding weight instead of eliminating it! I have already decided to not use any heavy aluminum parts on it for weight conservation.
Another question, has any one ever used the 3 piece foam liners with the firmer outer rings of foam to aid against tire roll in their tires?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Light Weight Tires*

Don't know the weight of the Baja's, But Proline Bowties are 4oz. lighter than the stock tires. I used the Bowties on a set of RPM StableMaxx Clawz. Theese have more offset than the Standard Clawz. I believe the RPM rims are a little lighter than the stock ones.

If nothing else I know I shave a pound off with the tires.

Good Luck


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

might want to try out proline maxx velocity wheels. if you do any running on gravel or something, i wouldent get the RPM crome ones. had some on my evader and after a run on gravel, found half the crome to have suddenly "dissapered." oh, and IMEXs are nice tires, but if the oval track is hard packed (like they usually are) you might want to look into the bowties Silver mentioned for more traction on the hard stuff.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I have a buddy that runs the IMEX tires for the weight reason and there wasn't much difference in his traction and mine with the Bow ties. I believe IMEX has 2 different compounds too, so get the softer ones if you go that route.


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## tgburnett (Sep 28, 2001)

*THANKS GUYS!*

I'm sure the E-MAXX isn't really suited to oval racing, but here in our neck of the woods, oval takes ups the majority of racing here.

I went ahead and bought the IMEX Baja soft compounds and the Trinity inners to try. I'm having to wait on a set of RPM Stablemaxx wheels before I can mount them. The savings of up to 4 oz. on a wheel seems quite alot, for a stock wheel assembly simply weighed in my hand doesn't seem as though it weighs all that much. I'll get out the ol' digital scale to compare them when I get one of the new ones built. I hope you all are correct!

Question, just how important is the heavy grease in the differentials? I dissassembled my EMAXX this weekend and cleaned up all the bearings and drive components. Instead of restricting the action of the diffs with such a heavy grease, I put a light application of silicon grease on the gears. The diffs worked quite smoothly afterward. Can't help but think the easier rotation of the components will help in the speed and load on the motors.

What are your recommendations for hinge pins and turnbuckles. I must have the longer turnbuckles with the wider arms I'm installing and was wondering if the Lundsford set would be recommended?

What about the stock axles verses CVD's? They are quite pricy and from experience know that the CVD's are susceptical to bending.

Thanks, all comments are appreciated.

Greg


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*4oz weight loss*

This was the weight difference of stock tires versus Bowties. Not the RPM Rims. Overall the difference between Bowties on RPM Stablemaxx Clawz and Stock tires and Rims is felt even just in your hand. Sorry Don't have an exact weight difference. I put the diff spool in the rear diff on mine and just just a thincoating of Associated Black Grease, that's all anybody around hear uses for their diffs.

Not sure of the differnces using CVD's, just now that the stock axles WILL Twist. Just a matter of time.

Hope this helps


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

*Re: THANKS GUYS!*



tgburnett said:


> *Question, just how important is the heavy grease in the differentials? I dissassembled my EMAXX this weekend and cleaned up all the bearings and drive components. Instead of restricting the action of the diffs with such a heavy grease, I put a light application of silicon grease on the gears. The diffs worked quite smoothly afterward. Can't help but think the easier rotation of the components will help in the speed and load on the motors.
> 
> What are your recommendations for hinge pins and turnbuckles. I must have the longer turnbuckles with the wider arms I'm installing and was wondering if the Lundsford set would be recommended?
> 
> ...


I rebuilt the diffs in my E-Maxx (because I HAD to!) and re-assembled them with lighter grease, the thick goop that was in them had seeped out and gummed up the bearings so they needed a thurough cleaning too. A little faster and more run time afterwards. I've been running it with the coating of silicone grease for a while now with no ill effects. the main reason they put the heavy grease in them is to crate a slight Positraction effect. If I want Posi, I'll put a spool in it. 

Turnbuckles? Yeah, Lunsfords. None better.

CVD's? I installed them on the rear of my truck, made sense after installing the Pro Line kit and I saw the twist that was happening to the shafts. I like them and couldn't not recommend them if you can afford them.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

how do you take apart the diffs in the maxx? i was looking in one of the manuels that came with it (the one with the exploded diagram of the truck's parts) and it looks like there are no screws or bolts holding in the diff cases. is this true or am i seeing things again?


got the duratrax blue aluminum skids, took it out to run, and put three LONG steeks in the purty thing... oh well


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Diff tear down*

there are to screws part # 2560 and a slip-on ring part# 4980. Page 12(front) and page 13(rear) diff diagrams show these in your E-Maxx Instruction manual.

Hope this helps


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## tgburnett (Sep 28, 2001)

*Skid Pans - RPM*

As I stated in an earlier post where I was bummed out for having to attach the RPM skids on top (or should it be bottom!) of the stock pieces. If for no other reason than for the additional weight the RPM parts add to the truck, even if it is to the bottom of the vehicle!
Do the aluminum aftermarket parts require this attachment principle too?
What about titanium skids?
Good sources (best prices!) for such parts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Greg


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i just yanked off the plastic ones and bolted on the aluminum ones. tge good thing is, duratrax supplies you with new fasteners (i stripped two taking the plastic ones off). i dont know, but i think tower is still selling the front and rear set for $30 (reg $35-$40) and center skid for $20 (reg $25-$30). i got a $50 gift certificate, so it worked perfectly. 

oh, and the t-maxx spurs fit the e-maxx.


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

IMHO- forget the aluminum, go Ti all the way. RacersEdge has Ti skids that are 2x as thick as stock. And don't get skidz in any of the "pretty" colors if you race at all. Color skids are for show trucks.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Donalbain is right, i'm afraid. i learned that colored skids are only for show trucks the hard way..


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## tgburnett (Sep 28, 2001)

*RacersEdge?*

Does RacersEdge have a web site? If not, does anyone know of site that might have pictures or discriptions and prices for those items? Thanks again, Greg

OOPS! I found it!

A little hard to navigate and find the titanium parts without doing a search queary though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

saw the new Pro-line "big joe" and the "road rage" 40 serise. very nice looking, and also a tad bigger that those big ofna tires for that big truck of theirs (is it the monster pirate?)


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

yup, its the monster pirate
I haven't been running my e-maxx much lately. I hope to soon race at a somewhat competitive level, so I've given more time and attention to my evader and losi xxxs (which was sort of a Christmas gift to myself.) Also, The batts I use for my maxx have been running pretty bad lately. The last time I ran my maxx was a few weeks ago at socal rc raceway. I think I got about 4 laps in on one charge, whereas my evader was running 12 minutes, and thats with a 12 turn motor. I think I'll have to cycle them. 
So hows the e-maxx holding up for 'ya, smojoe? Any popped shock caps yet?
If I can get good batts for my emaxx (I'm thinking of getting a pair sanyo nicd stick packs for it), maybe I can race it too!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

emaxx is running great! re- did the wheelie bar today and actually holds up when i wheelie! also got some LEDs from radioshack and hooked them up so i have bright blue lights in the front and semi- dim red lights in the back. so far i'v been having a blast.. oh, and no blown shock caps  
still cant get over how big _and expensive_ the maxx tires are. (and pretty much everything else for the maxxs) nutin but money pits...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

No blown shock caps? you must be doing something wrong lol. JUMP HIGHER! yeah, its quite the money pit. If i race it I would need new tires (about $80) and batteries. I converted most of my stick packs to side by side packs, and my earlier attempts weren't that great. Even if they were completely straight, they wouldn't completely fit; the battery bars get in the way. I won't do any racing mods for my e-maxx for now(except for a servo) because I need to makes my losi xxxs race ready (I'm using my old sprint esc with my worn-out 17t speedgems 2 motor. I plan on eventually getting a duratrax intellispeed 8t forward esc and either reedy ti, trinity p-94, trinity D5, or team orion core touring 10/11 turn motor.) It'll be a while before I can afford these, though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

*im not turning this into a XXXS thread, but..*

just take the LRP and the P-94 out of your evader if your going to run TC instead of truck. i need spring to come along and dry up the dirt so i can run the E where i usually ride my mountain bike. sad part is i was just going to go out and run it today because it was dry, but then mother nature played a trick on me, and it rained this morning.  oh well...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I plan on racing both touring car and stadium trucks, so switching the gear back and forth would get pretty tedious. 
I also have renewed hopes in racing my maxx. I ran it with my two best packs (a Peak racing matched sanyo 3000hv pack and an umatched trinity panasonic ultra metal 3000 side by side pack). The difference between this and my other batts was amazing. It actually ran more than 4 minutes! Lets see, E-maxx racing tires/wheels: $80. Duratrax Esc:$75. Motor:$50. Fast servo for my TC: $50. Volkswagen beetle body for my emaxx and hot pink paint: $25 (just joking about that one). I can't wait until summer and its money making oppertunities...


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

because there are no nearby tracks, im just going to keep mine a basher. big joes and aluminum threaded shocks are on the top of my list.
your right about summer being a good moneymaking oppurtunity. i think i made about $200 in the course of two months..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Once during summer I made $100 in 2 days. That was 2 8-hour days working in my moms office.
That's another thing I need: aluminum shocks. I want dynamite threaded shocks for my maxx and some kind of threaded shocks for my xxxs.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

last night (after cleaning the mud off my maxx for about 2 hrs) i figured out, with some swapping of materials, the EVST rear shocks fit on the maxx. however, you have to use the hex screw and shock holder (the plasic thing between the shock "loop" and the hex screw) from the EVST and the maxx's bottom retainer clip and ball cup "thingy" at the end. however, to use just one shock for each arm (what im thinking of doing), im guessing you would need about 70-80 wt oil and some VERY heavy springs (possibly "Heavy Heavys" by trinity) .


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

whats new for the maxx:
-got new MIP CVDs for the rear (the "proline" ones work fine)
-stripped a screw trying to get the wheelie bar off (their so close to the a-arms, it hard not to)
-bent ANOTHER wheelie bar shaft (when the wheelie bar WAS working)

just thought i would give whoever actually reads this ( :lol: ) a 411 on how im doing.


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Still Reading*

I'm still reading Smojoe, I just haven't done much with the maxx lately. Not sure if I have updated you guys on mine or not. Got rid of the PT Cruiser body, cause its not an easy fit. Added a Dynamite Steering package and a Dynamite Servo Cover. Also added a rear diff spool. There's a hill behind our LHS were we do out TC parking lot races that is almost to steep to walk up or down. There was a guy trying to run an Evader ST up it, didn't happen. My Maxx climbed up it six times befor my batteries (half dead or more) died.


That's all that's new here. Other than my XXX-NT that I just put an OS CV-RX .15 with a Hardcore Racing Head on. 

Race day tommorow. Will run the E-Maxx if there are enough.:dude:


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Bad news & good news*

Bad news - There were only 2 E-maxx's for race day = no E-maxx race.

Good News - Thanks to our LHS (HobbyTownUSA) we have been invited to the Civic Center this Friday and Saturday for the Monster Truck event. We will be putting on a show with E-Maxx, T-Maxx, Savage, and 1/8th scale buggies.:thumbsup: :thumbsup: 

Too cool...:dude:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

sweet! wish i could go, but with school, and all that distance, i think i'll just stay home...

another run down of stuff:
- bent A THIRD wheelie bar shaft (is there anything harder that hardened steel?!)
- broke a rear left bulkhead in half (thank god powerline sells aluminum ones for 34 bucks)
- made a GIANT jump out of an furnature box, which was to big so i just made it into sort of a hill to climb. of course, my mom wanted to see what would happen if i went full throttle off it. thats how i busted those parts. landed square on the wheelie bar. bad part is, im allready in the red from buying those CVDs...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Titanium, maybe? But who would spec titanium for a printer....
I took all of my non-racing batteries and made 2 seven-cell batts for my maxx and an eight cell batt for my evader.
I haven't done many upgrades on my maxx lately. I think the only other upgrades I'm going to make for it are aluminum shocks, tires, and a new body (pro-line gmc sierra). Before this, however, I'm gonna race-prep my losi xxxs (esc, motor, threaded shock bodies).
a little poll: which gear in your maxx do you prefer?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

im not using the printer parts anymore. stupid epoxy wasnt holding so i just made a better one. i think i fixed the problem by mounting wheelies both on the inside and the outside of the four bars, so that weight is transfered to four spots instead of two
so hows the xxxs goin? good, i hope
amuminum shocks, CDVs for the front, aluminum bulkheads, and a GorillaMaxx chassis. oh, and big joes..
i now perfer second gear because after gluing my tires, i can wheelie in both gears. though first is awsome for going over rocks and running up dirt piles..

p.s. the GorillaMaxx chassis can be viewed at www.gorillamaxx.com and go to gallery. its awsome, and it should be for only $185


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

WOW!!! Thats an awsome looking chassis! 
The xxxs is holding up well, just needs some racing electronics. The old 17t motor just doesn't cut it. I've read in RCCA that the xxxs had a tendency to spin out more than the associated tc3. With my weak motor and servo, I can't get get it to spin out at all.
I prefer second gear also. I like the speed and the slightly different sound. I prefer 1st gear when my batteries are going dead, however.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Has anyone tried the Proline Widemaxx conversion and the PRM StableMaxx rims together?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, DJ1978 (Dan) has at Washtenaw, Makes for a Very wide Maxx! Very stable, but Dan said he didn't have good enough steering. We have a good group of us running them out there and nobody uses the combination of both. I think my sons are the only ones using the Stablemaxx rims with stock suspension, the rest of us run the Pro-Line kit. 10 E-Maxxes on the track is quite a sight to see! Problem is finding Marshalls that aren't afraid of them and marshall properly, sometimes they just stare at them & look like they are wondering what to do........


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Thinking I'm going to have to do the E-Maxx thing for MARS... should be a blast!


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Is the Proline conversion even needed with the new WideMaxx?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

No, the Widemaxx is the same width. But the sliders are supposed to be beefier on the new truck.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

After a little research I figured that out... at least that will save a few bucks.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well i smoked my EVX yesterday. my only question is how should i send it back to Traxxas? i have the "Traxxas Lifetime Electronics Warrenty" card, but thats a little sketchy on what to do. anyone have any "experiance" with this sort of thing?

whats new:
-Smoked EVX (duh)
-wheelie bar is working. just had to have two wheels on each side of the bars
-fixed the bulkhead with some plasic cement. seems stronger than stock, actually

sad part is, all my other cars arent working bacause my dad and sister is using the ESCs, controllers, and recievers for a science olypiad robot (see if i can post pics of it later)


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Experience with Traxxas*

Well Smojoe,

Unfortunately the only experience I have with them is bad. One of my friends sold his E-Maxx after the 5th time he sent his EVX back. They kept refurbishing his even after they promised a new one. He would get it back, run it once or twice and poof. The last time he sent them the entire truck, and sold it the day he got it back.

As far as how to contact them and set up sending it back not real sure. Will talk to my freind later and get the details on how he did it.


Hankster - Welcome to the darkside!!! The E-maxx is very stable with the new wider arms and RPM Stablemaxx rims. Mine is on the lowest ride height with least suspension travel (outside holes on arms). I can't remember the last time I rolled in a corner. I run Pro-line bowties and a spool in the rear. Put the spool in hoping it would slide the back end a little in the corners. The bow-ties almost hook up too good. Slow down turn the corner, Walk the Dog (wheelie) out of the turn. Really funny to watch with the blue PT Cruiser body and blue-chrome RPM Clawz (stablemaxx) rims.

Once again hankster, really sorry about the Evader ST parts.:wave:


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

*Gettin' around corners...*

This setup is for those who run the stock tires. May work with others.

Try 0 (zero) toe-in/out in the rear. 0 camber in the rear, and about +3 in front.

The positive camber in front really makes the front dig in while the 0 toe in back scoots it around center.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I just put an HPI Dodge Ram body for the Savage on my E-Maxx, What a nice body! And a good fit too, looks sweet!


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I know the stock Proline foams break down fairly quickly. What foams have you found that work well in Proline tires?


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## Northerner (Mar 3, 2002)

i had a dead evx also and this is the response i got from traxxas on what to do.... and since i got rid of the junk tamiya plugs on it and switched them to power poles (mostly because thats what all my batteries have) im kind of screwed cause that voids the warranty! they will charge extra to replace with stock plugs, and blah blah blah.... so i just went and bought a new evx and learned my lesson, i just made an adapter from my power pole plugs to the tamiya plugs so if anything happens again i will take advantage of the warranty! i will still send the dead one in someday to get fixed when i have the extra cash since it will be cheaper then a new one.


*Hello,

Following is the warranty info. on that.

All warranty claims must go through our on-site repair lab for diagnosis and repair. Traxxas Corporation assumes responsibility for its products and will repair or replace any defective product at its sole discretion. We do not support dealer generated product replacements. Our toll-free customer service line provides direct access to our factory trained representatives. In most cases, replacement items are set out the same day the order is received. In the event that factory service is required, our technicians are usually able to make repairs within a 3-5 working day time frame. Many times we are able to immediately solve problems over the phone by simply educating an individual with regard to the basic operation of our products. Traxxas offers a 30-day limited warranty on all their electronic components and a two-year, manufacturer-defect warranty on Traxxas nitro-powered engines. In addition to these warranties, Traxxas offers an extended service plan for electronic components. After the 30-day warranty has expired Traxxas will repair electronic components for a flat rate of $15.00 plus $5.00 for shipping and handling. The electronic components covered under this service plan include electronic speed controls, transmitters, receivers, servos and battery chargers. Motors and mechanical speed controls are not covered. Products damaged by intentional abuse, misuse or neglect may be subject to additional charges (up to $25.00) on top of the $15.00 warranty charge (not to exceed $40.00 plus $5.00 shipping). Rewiring voids the 30 day warranty. Electronic speed controls which have had the factory wiring connectors removed and replaced with non-factory connectors will be subject to an additional $25.00 rewiring charge. 
Traxxas also offers the Engine Replacement Plan for nitro-powered engines. This plan allows you, at any time throughout the lifetime of your TRX Pro .15 engine, to exchange it for a brand-new TRX Pro .15 engine at 50% of the suggested retail price of a new TRX Pro .15 (current retail price is $140.00 for an engine with a recoil starter). For more information on any of the Traxxas warranties or any of our other service plans, contact our customer service department or check out our web site at www.traxxas.com To take advantage of any of the services we offer, or if you believe you have a warranty issue to solve, simply send in the item(s) in question to the Dallas address listed below with attention to customer service. Include a copy of your receipt, a note describing the reasons you are sending the item(s) in to our repair lab, a daytime phone number, and a return shipping address. 



You can view all of our vehicles, prices, exploded views and parts lists at our website. www.traxxas.com and www.t-maxx.com
If you need further assistance, please feel free to contact our Customer
Service department at one of the following:


Best regards,


Philip Belknap,
TRAXXAS Customer Service


Monday through Friday, 8:30am to 9:00pm Central Time


US Customers only 1-888-TRAXXAS
Outside of US 972-613-3300
Fax 972-613-3599
e-mail [email protected]
Address 12150 Shiloh Road
Dallas, Texas 
75228 USA
-----------
TRAXXAS UK
Voice 44-117-956-1002
Fax 44-117-956-1121
Address P.O. Box 1128
Winterbourne, Bristol
BS17-2SH, England*


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hank, 
I ran the stock Proline foams for over a year in my BowTies before they noticeably started to break down, then I did my 'ol pocket knife re-clamation trick and installed the firmer Racers Edge 3 piece set. They are pre assembled with a firm foam on the outside edges and a softer foam in the middle, much firmer than the pro-lines when new.

Northerner-
I had the same issue, I cut off the bullet connectors to the Motors so I could direct solder & installed Powerpoles/Sermos/Lite Speed/Black & Red connectors for the batteries. But I cut the original plugs off with some extra wire and then installed my connectors with a little extra wire so I just had to solder the 2 wires together neatly making the whole lead longer. Cover the connection with shrink wrap or good electrical tape and your good to go. When I had one go bad, I just soldered back on the original connectors and sent it in. I've had to send 2 EVX's back in, both times they re-wired them, 1st time they didn't charge me, second time they did.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

arent the replacement EVXs like $120? if thats how much i gotta spend to get a new one, i'll just save up the money and get a hacker instead of replacing it. i dont see why there so picky about replacing the plugs. heh, i'll just cut off the deans and send it to em' with no plugs. i can say i hardwired it and that they cant charge me with changing the plugs because i dont have any! if only...

whats new:
- evx is *still* toast (making my room smell funny)
- took apart the entire truck at one time (was really bored)
- went to my LHS and picked up a urban style hummer body and some matallic blue paint. lookin pimp so far, but need another can and some overcoating (any suggestions?)


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Only problem with that is that they say they can't test them without the factory plugs installed. I think it's a load, but oh well!


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

Does Traxxas have a problem with users cutting off the motor plugs? I've been running adapters on the Tamiya plugs for years.


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Traxxas & Plugs*

Yes they do have a problem with you cuuting off the plugs. I just left the Tamiya plugs on my EVX and bought new packs for my E-Maxx. Soldered a set of Tamiya plugs back on 1 set of batteries to use in the Maxx. A lot of people build Deans to Tamiya adapters. To me I would just rather run tamiyas. Think about this which has more resistance. Tamiyas on both ESC and batts or Tamiya on ESC and Tamiya to Deans adapter and deans on the batts?

It sucks that you void your warranty if you cut off the plugs, but what can ya do.

Hankster 
I can't offer anyadvice on the proline foams, because I am still using the the foams that came in the BowTies and sadly don't have that much track time on them.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Actually the adapters aren't too bad of an idea, because you can tweak the Tamiya ones for better connection & if you leave them connected all the time they won't wear and cause the resistance they are famous for. Then your regular plugs will be good.


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## Donalbain (Sep 29, 2001)

Sorry, I ment the bullet conectors that connect the motors to the EVX. I've cut those ones off and hardwired the motors. I have sermos plug adapters I've made for the battery connections.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

do i have to call up traxxas befor I send in the EVX, or can I just "casually" send it in with $40?

:freak: <-- looks like me after I fried the EVX. lol


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You could just send it in, but I would call first & get someones name to refer to.


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Hey Tom, this is Kevin from Larrys. Where are you guys running your e-maxx's at? I have a mostly stock one, and I'm getting bored with running up and down the street with it. :wave: This is how I looked the first time it got a wheelie for a half a block.  :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I was racing mine out at Washtenaw, had 15 - 20 E-maxxes every race day. Now I'll be trying out Unlimited in Waterford at Dixie and Sashabaw, they are running the E-Maxxes. I'll be there this coming Saturday.


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Thanks Tom I'll try to make it there this saturday. I heard they have a nice track.Are they running stock e-maxxs?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Stock as far as motors yes, everything else is a free for all!


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## canbquik (Dec 17, 2002)

*smoked evx*



smojoe said:


> arent the replacement EVXs like $120? if thats how much i gotta spend to get a new one, i'll just save up the money and get a hacker instead of replacing it. i dont see why there so picky about replacing the plugs. heh, i'll just cut off the deans and send it to em' with no plugs. i can say i hardwired it and that they cant charge me with changing the plugs because i dont have any! if only...
> 
> whats new:
> - evx is *still* toast (making my room smell funny)
> ...



I had a great time dealing with Traxxas over the speed control thing  I bought my e-maxx in June, drove it half a dozen times, then shelf'd it until around the end of July!!!! This was because they had a hard time getting parts from Novak? Anyway, I sent it in they called me and TOLD me that there was going to be a surcharge to replace the connectors that were on it new( went to power poles) and the bullet connectors to the motor. I argued with them and they dropped the charges. So, I got it back in July, put two batteries in and headed out to the parking lot by my house, set it down ,pulled it WIDE OPEN, about ten feet later it was OVER!!!!! The evx smoked again. I called them up, Monday( recieved the evx Saturday) and told them that it smoked again! Their response was ," You'll need to send the truck to us, so that we can see if it is your driving style or the evx." Now remember this thing weights how much, and to ship it from PA to TX w/ insurance ,BOTH WAYS!!!!! After another arguement, we settle on the evx only being shipped again. A few days later I get a call for them telling me they have to charge me again for the connectors. At this point I had owned the truck about 2 months and drove it about 6 times, so I told them to fix it and I would send them a check when they called and said it was done. They called and I asked them how long they hold repairs before they trash them or re-sell them? She said about a month and I told her that would be plenty of time to ship the rest of my truck to them so they would have the WHOLE DAMN THING to throw in the TRASH!!!!! Amazingly, about three days later the evx arrived FREE OF CHARGE. Since then I purchased a NEW evx from Southside Hobbys, cheapest place to get one! It cost only $98 SHIPPED and I recieved it in 3-4 days. The guy was really friendly and quick to ship it out, his address is--

www.southsidehobbys.com 
or call
1-812-877-1554 
I hope this will help someone avoid the run around I recieved with my problems :thumbsup:


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Anyone know if the stock shocks on the E-Maxx are any good or should they be replaced?


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

I replaced mine with the traxxas big bore alum. ones, and the truck handles and takes jumps better. And thier real smooth, and easy to build. :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

hankster said:


> Anyone know if the stock shocks on the E-Maxx are any good or should they be replaced?


They stock shocks work fine. I still use them on one of my trucks, just be carefull when you change the oil so they don'r have a high amount of pack. The tops can blow off when landing extreme jumps. I've had 2 blow since I started running maxxes (1 on mine & 1 on the boys truck) & the boys blew when landing a jump off of a 4 foot mound and 5.5ft of air!

I put the Duratrax shocks on mine, couldn'r resist the purple Losi shocks with threaded shock bodies!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

from the resonses i've gotten, i think i'll just shelf my E untill my birthday (june 6). at least untill then i will have enough $$ for the hacker system (and a few drivetrain hop-ups). im on spring break, so what have i been doing to kill the time? why making a RC hovercraft, of course. just need a strong enough lift fan* untill next time, keep maxxin' it up!


*radioshack CPU fans are crap. spent $20 on one and it bearly puts out any air


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Tom, What springs are you using on your Maxx?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I run the silver springs that come with the Duratrax set, they are a little stiffer than the stock red Traxxas ones.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Are the DuraTrax shocks any good? Are they easy to change oil in? What weight oil are you using?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Duratrax = Losi. Very easy & pretty darn good. You've done Losi haven't you?

I run a set up that makes people go "Huh?" But it works well for me & my truck handles great. I run 80wt oil in front and 60wt in the rear on both E-Maxxes with the pistons & springs that came with the shocks.

Duratrax = Horizon = Losi............ You knew that didn't you?


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Losi? What's that? Something from France... 

How about DuraTrax = Hobbico = Tower Hobbies = ????

Thanks for the info... I may just have to try them out.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Ya know what, Maybe I'm thinking of Dynamite..... Now that you said what you did that may be it. Dynamite is the one that makes all the aluminum colored stuff for the Maxx.... I bet the shocks are Dynamite, not Duratrax. It's been over a year since I bought them & I'm old........


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I just checked, they are Dynamite shocks, NOT Duratrax. Oops. :tongue:


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Whew... glad that was cleared up before I bought some....


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I was wondering if anyone has tried the Associated shock kit or knows of anyone that has?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Don't know of anyone with Associateds shocks on, I imagine they'd be great, I just don't like building Associated shocks. I just like Dynamites because they are losi shocks with threaded shock bodies.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Hehe... I like Associated's shocks better so that is why I was wondering about those....  They are a lot cheaper then the Dynomite shocks. I actually like the adjusting collars better then threaded bodies because it is easy to get each adjustment exactly the same.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

They are cheaper now? when I bought my set the shop has 4 different sets to choose from (Larry's really is amazing in what they stock) and all 4 were priced the same, $69.00 for the set of Eight. He had Dynamite, Associated, TOP, and Traxxas Big Bores. I was deciding between the TOP and Dynamite, but just had to go with Dynamite because I run all Losi and you gotta go with what you know.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I seen the Dynomite and Traxxas at $80.00 and the Associated at $60.00


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

has anybody else here made any 7 cell batts for their maxx? I made a pair out of some cheap cells. They need to be cycled a few times. When I get them running well, I'll post my results


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

A guy I raced with this winter ran a pair of 7 cell 2400's for one of the race days, I still beat him with 6 cell GP 3300's. He might have had a little more speed on the straight, but not alot or enough to make me think they are preferred.


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

tommckay said:


> A guy I raced with this winter ran a pair of 7 cell 2400's for one of the race days, I still beat him with 6 cell GP 3300's. He might have had a little more speed on the straight, but not alot or enough to make me think they are preferred.


he didnt have enough punch  thats why! lower voltage.. Anyways Have any of you guys done the Dual C50 project? Jus wondering how it went for you, Bout to start a HUGE project on my emaxx, hopefully when I'm finished it will put a big block to shame  Jus wondering about what you guys suggest, and what suspension kit do you all recommend? I'm thinking about getting the Monstermaxx Widetrac.... All replies welcome!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

CaseyDDR said:


> he didnt have enough punch  thats why! lower voltage.. Anyways Have any of you guys done the Dual C50 project? Jus wondering how it went for you, Bout to start a HUGE project on my emaxx, hopefully when I'm finished it will put a big block to shame  Jus wondering about what you guys suggest, and what suspension kit do you all recommend? I'm thinking about getting the Monstermaxx Widetrac.... All replies welcome!


Dual C50's? You'll probably smoke any nitro cars, your wallet, and your transmission. Sounds fun :thumbsup: 
I wish I could afford bl motors for my maxx. For the suspension, I recommend the trophy class rc suspension kit. Smojoe should be able to get you the web address (or you could just search for it in this thread. I think it might be on page 3 or 4, but I'm not sure).
I think it would be cool to see some monster pirate tires on a maxx with the trophy class suspension. It would probably be too wide to handle well, but it sure would be cool.


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

JB_The_Evader said:


> Dual C50's? You'll probably smoke any nitro cars, your wallet, and your transmission. Sounds fun :thumbsup:
> I wish I could afford bl motors for my maxx. For the suspension, I recommend the trophy class rc suspension kit. Smojoe should be able to get you the web address (or you could just search for it in this thread. I think it might be on page 3 or 4, but I'm not sure).
> I think it would be cool to see some monster pirate tires on a maxx with the trophy class suspension. It would probably be too wide to handle well, but it sure would be cool.


I dont know if it'd be to wide because I'm getting a Lexan extended chassis (bomb proof chassis) It will extend the Emaxx by 2 inches. Its also over a 1/4inch thick, and only 2 oz heavier. I just dont know though if i want to run dual 12 cell packs or lighten it up to dual 10 cell packs. The chassis itself only holds 9 cell stick packs, so I guess i could do that, i mean come on, dual brushless it should still hit over 40mph like that.. Who knows maybe ill make 2 9 cell sticks and 2 12 cell sticks for different types. I'm expecting this to run a good 10 minutes also, which is actually very good runtime for an electric vehicle. I mean come on, what if a track let me run this in the nitro class and i could last the whole run  haha


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

woo! trophy class rc!! www.trophyclassrc.com

ahh, dual C50s.. might need some tranny "fixes" (unless you know of a way to switch trannys during the race). first off, supermaxx idlers. ( http://www.monstermaxx.com/e-idlers.shtml ) have heard they hold up pretty well. thinking of getting some soon (if my wallet ever gets off it's diet of the greens). and supermaxx diffs (be blowing up the stockers left and right) ( http://www.monstermaxx.com/SM7.5Diff.shtml ). purty pricey, but nutin but the best for a chassy that is bulletproof :lol: and for _all_ those cells, go with the gorillamaxx battery straps ( http://www.gorillamaxx.com/gmrc_straps.html ) you wont be dissappointed!

oh, and supermaxx alsoo has special wheels that you can mount the monster pirate tires on :devil:


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

yah im definately going to have to rebuild the tranny, But first im worried aobut actually getting the BL.. I'm getting the lexan extended chassis (bomb proof), then I'm going to get the new arm set.. THEN a BL motor / ESC, then the rest before i complete with a 2nd BL / ESC. Going to be alot of wallet draining but will be very fun


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

What pinions do you guys normally use for racing? Don't want to buy something that I'll never use!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I use the stock 18 tooths and 66 tooth spur, I tried gearing down a tooth once to see if I got a little more oomph off the corner, but switched back becaust I lost too much (just a tad) speed.


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

where can you get the carbon fiber chassis for the emaxx?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

didn't know they made one. Or are you talking about aftermarket stuff?


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

its an aftermarket chassis made by gorilla(?) greatly lightens the emaxx for stock running.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

CaseyDDR said:


> where can you get the carbon fiber chassis for the emaxx?


xtreme racing makes the carbon fiber chassis for the emaxx. it can be found at www.xtremercracing.com . oh, and gorilla (maxx) makes a similar aluminum version of it.


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

smojoe said:


> xtreme racing makes the carbon fiber chassis for the emaxx. it can be found at www.xtremercracing.com . oh, and gorilla (maxx) makes a similar aluminum version of it.


where could i find the gorilla maxx chassis?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Look back a few pages in this thread, they posted a link to it.


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Look back a few pages in this thread, they posted a link to it.


cant find it.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

www.gorillamaxx.com

its the chassis im going to give to myself for my b-day


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## disruptor10 (Oct 2, 1998)

that is freakin sweet ! A little pricy but nice ! Now that extreme chassis looks nice and light also./i cant wait to get my e maxx


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## CaseyDDR (Mar 18, 2003)

welp guess im not getting that carbon fiber chassis now...


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Emaxx Listing in For Sale / Trade*

Just thought I'd let yall know I have listed my E-maxx FS/T.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

*widemaxx differences*

I'm new at the e-maxx thing, what are the major differences between the widemaxxemaxx and the original e-maxx? Like the suspension arms are the only thing that I know of. Any other major parts?

I'm thinking or getting a 1 year old emaxx and just getting the proline kit would that be about the same as a new truck as far as specs go?


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*Proline VS. New Widemaxx*

The arms are deinately different. I believe that the old emaxx with the Proline suspension is just a hair wider. I know that the newer Emaxx comes with a new 14.4V EVX ESC. The older version came with a very troublesome 12V ESC, Traxxas did do a replacement. All of the troubles I have heard of have been with the ESC. If you cut of the Tamiya style plugs it will void any warranty. I believe one other difference is in the shock mounting for different ride heights and suspension travel. Lower and wider = more stable (less roll).

One thing to watch out for on older used and/or abused Emaxx is twisted drive shafts, they all twist sooner or later (sooner if they have mod motors). A used newer WideMaxx would be your best bet IMHO.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Woohoo... got my E-Maxx today... gettin' ready to do some racin'!


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## disruptor10 (Oct 2, 1998)

me too hank i got mine on saturday,cant wait to crank here up and let her rip................finally!!!!!!!!!!!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

hankster said:


> Woohoo... got my E-Maxx today... gettin' ready to do some racin'!


Wouldn't this be more accurate??......"Woohoo... got my E-Maxx today... gettin' ready to do some chasin'!"
:lol: :lol:


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Maybe in YOUR dreams!!!!


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

I'm about to become apart of a Emaxx pit crew. Should be ordering one soon for my son. 

I'm looking forward to talking with all of you. Anything I should know before I order it? I need to finish reading this thread, got to page 5 this morning, before I start asking questions. 

Talk to you soon.

Bill


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## Guest (Apr 9, 2003)

I have been considering getting an e-maxx so I can fairly run with a couple friends of mine who have t-maxx's(the evader is still fun!). But I anyway I am REALLY torn between what batteries i should get for it. Here is what I have narrowed it down to. Any input is welcome(I will be using stock engines/esc).

6-cell nicd 2400 ballistic batteries(sanyo cells), 2 for $60
http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/Store_Detail.cfm?PartNo=2424PR&InfoID=200&ShowLarge=True

Racers Edge 6-cell nimh 3000, 4 for $100
http://stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RCESP3000B&showbig=6809

Voltage enhanced GP3300 7 cell UNMATCHED, 2 for $80(are these nimh?)
http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatts.htm

I know the 7-cell batteries provide more juice, but is it worth the extra money and stress on the e-maxx, or should I re-gear instead for a little more speed(and stick with 6-cell)? I am really considering the racers edge deal, but don't know if those are good batteries or not. thanks


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## groundhogg (Sep 25, 2001)

I don't know about the new wide emaxx, but I believe the EVX speed control is designed to run on 12 cells. I've seen people run 14 cells, but I wouldn't chance it.


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## SilverEvader (Oct 23, 2001)

*The EVX is 14.4V`*

Yes you can run 2 7 cell packs for the most top speed.

Please check out Dr. Doug's E-Maxx Page  for answers to most if not all of your E-Maxx questions.

I am in no way affiliated with this page, just well informed by it. Helped me out a bunch.


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## Guest (Apr 10, 2003)

Any opinions on those 3 batteries I listed? Or if there are better ones I don't know about.

Thanks for the link. I ran across that website and it helped answer some of my questions, and now its just down to what batteries I should order for it.(I don't want to order crappy batteries for my $300 emaxx)


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

The ProMatch Racing packs should be pretty good. I think you can find someone selling them on the Swap and Sell area at good prices.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

SilverEvader said:


> Please check out Dr. Doug's E-Maxx Page  for answers to most if not all of your E-Maxx questions.


Thanks Silver, Just what the doctor ordered.

Bill


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## Guest (Apr 10, 2003)

any opinions on the Peak Performance Power Max Pro 3000's? two for $62. 

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTV8&P=K


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## Guest (Apr 10, 2003)

It seems the voltage enhanced GP3300 7 cell UNMATCHED batteries are geared towards racing. They are recommended to be charged at 5-6A(I think) The charger I am getting is the twin pulse but it only charges at 3.5A Since I would only charge them at that rate they should provide me pretty long runtimes(more then 10min) since they are 3300's, right? Or do these cells put out their juice faster then a normal cell since they are meant for racing, thus giving me less run time?


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## disruptor10 (Oct 2, 1998)

*Transfer case problems*

Speedo seems to be working fine,truck wont move.motors wired correctly,everything hood up right when i move the center shafts they only go so far then stop ? If i force them with pliers the gears sound crunchy ? Any body experiance this ?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

disruptor10 said:


> Speedo seems to be working fine,truck wont move.motors wired correctly,everything hood up right when i move the center shafts they only go so far then stop ? If i force them with pliers the gears sound crunchy ? Any body experiance this ?


have yet to experiance that, but im going to try and help..
first, take off your pinions (helps a lot) next, try and roll the maxx back and forth across the ground. if it rolls pretty easy, then turn on the truck and see it the motors will spin. if they dont spin, its something electronic (more then likely the ESC). if it does not roll easily (for a monster truck at least) then take off the center drive axels. move the front section (diff), see if it binds, check the rear section (diff) see it that binds, then if both of those work good, it is, more then likely, the tranny. if it binds, then take it apart and see whats the matter with it. if it spins freely, then use whatever someone else posts, because im out of ideas. 
this may seem time consuming, but its better then not running the truck at all.


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## disruptor10 (Oct 2, 1998)

well she spins freely ,both motors spin freely when away from the spurnow here's the kicker when i put the left motor with pinion against the spur and spin it she spins now i put both motors against the sopur with pinions and it wont spin over ?????? weird huh ? any body got any idea's ? Are both motors suppost to be soinning in the same direction ?
HANKSTER ANY IDEA"S HERE BUDDY ? I feel like a fool being a 14 yr racer and now i want to play a little and i cant get this thing goin ?


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

My first guess is that if the gears feel/sounds "crunchy" then they most likely are crunched. Both motors spin in the same direction.


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## disruptor10 (Oct 2, 1998)

yeah one of the motors was spinning the wrong way,took her out and road tested her yesterday,pretty cool ........im using 16 pinions can i go up to 18's ??????


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

The pinion that is normally included is an 18 tooth.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

good to hear that your maxx is working again...

does anyone know if someone has tested out the gorillamaxx chassis yet? i would like to know how that awsome looking piece of art holds up to the tough stuff.

oh, finally shipped out the EVX to traxxas. anyone know about how long it will take for it to return?


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## bluemaxx (Mar 16, 2003)

The baddest chassis i've seen for the emaxx is the Unlimited engineering chassis www.unlimitedengineering.com It holds i think up to 8cells on both sides.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Has anybody used the trinity maxx paxx 1900 scr packs in their e-maxx? I've been having problems with my batterie lately.... messed up conversions from stick to side by side packs.... different connectors for my vehicles.... batts not fitting in e-maxx chassis... etc.
I'm gonna just buy some new batteries, and I was thinking of these. I'd like to eventually pick up at least 2 pairs of these to use in my maxx (as well as matched packed for my racing vehicles)


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I bought a pair before I bought my maxx for practice packs. They were the worst packs I've ever bought. Others I've talked to say theirs were great. Maybe I was used to better quality packs? I don't know, But I did not like the Maxx Packs.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I may try them. I want to get some batteries to use just in my maxx. 
well, if the maxx paxx batts weren't good, do you have any suggestions for stick packs that cost $25-30 and aren't generic cells? thanks.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Actually No. Sorry. I haven't been in the market for that type cell for quite some time. Pro-Match seems to have some good specials now and then, check there.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> I may try them. I want to get some batteries to use just in my maxx.
> well, if the maxx paxx batts weren't good, do you have any suggestions for stick packs that cost $25-30 and aren't generic cells? thanks.



i think their around $45 now, but i got my ultra metals for like $33 bucks each at tower. just wait untill their on sale again (or just join their super- savers club) 

anyway, the real point of this post is that i got my maxx running again!! man, did i miss running that thing! anyway, few minutes into the run, started acting sluggish, took off the spur cover, and found that one of the set screws on the pinion had backed out and it was only running with one motor (not good). put thread lock on both set screws, tightened the slipper a little, then went back out. after that, ran like a dream. 

oh, and bluemaxx, the gorillamaxx _is_ the best. the only thing that comes close is the torpedo chassis. those hold like 30 cells :freak:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Man, I raced my Maxx again last weekend & I must say I am kind of disappointed in the MIP CVD I was using for the rear center drive shaft. It has fallen apart (drive pin falls out) 3 times since I installed it and this last time I noticed that the drive cup on the bone end was severly worn in. but the wierd thing is that it didn't wear like like normal, you wouldn't even notice it unless you were inspecting it closely (as I did). The pin on the end of the bone had worn into the metal of the drive cup about 2.5mm but the metal is thick enough that the edge still looked straight, it was just worn inside. 

I have no idea why the pin fell out 3 times, I use locktite blue on the set screw. I even put a zip tie on it that stayed in place until the pin fell out!. I guess I'll have to find some good shrink wrap for it.


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Tom I had the same problem and I just went back to the stock one's. They may break after so long, but at least their not as exspensive and a pain as the mip's. I had to order the pins twice, and I lost all 4 of them.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, the biggest pain in fixing it is that it fits so tight you have to remove the whole rear end to work on the CVD. I'll probably put it back on, but with some good shrink wrap!


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Hi Guys,

Well another E-maxx hit the earth today and has started to dig up the soil. Very impressive truck. As the head pit boss I'm still trying to check everything out and learn more about it. Your thread has been a big help thanks.

Some general questions for you. 

It seems soft in the supension, this may be by design but I thought I would ask anyway. 

Another issue is my battery packs fit very tight in their compartments. Should i plan on switching from standard 6 cell packs to a side by side packs? I'm using GP3300 cells.

And the most pressing question is how do you get that plastic film off the body?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yes, the suspension is soft. I solved it by putting heavier oil in the shocks, keeps it from rolling too much in hard corners.

as for the batteries, side by side 3300's won't fit much better unless you use the right battery bars.

If it's new, there are a couple things to check just for good measure, remove the gear cover and check the tightness of the motor screws and pinion screws, Then check the slipper adjustment.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Thanks Tom,

I believe I read 60 wt oil was being used, I'll need to order some.

I'll do the checks you suggested before she makes another run. I should have done that first anyway, I know better.

I really like the 3300, I'll think about this one for awhile.

Thanks


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## usagi (Feb 11, 2002)

I have a Q about the E-maxx.
I is durable?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Bill, I race mine with 80wt in front and 60wt in the rear. I also run GP 3300's in a side by side configuration, they fit well if the battery bars are fairly flat.

Usagi, The E-Maxx is a very durable truck, it has a couple of weak spots (all R/C's do), but they don't normally appear unless you are abusing it. And if your abusing it, what can you expect!?!?!


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## usagi (Feb 11, 2002)

Thank you Tom :roll: 

I am looking into getting a TXT-1 or a E-Maxx.
The Truck looks like alot of fun! If i can find on reasonal enough I will buy one.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

:thumbsup:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

tommckay said:


> as for the batteries, side by side 3300's won't fit much better unless you use the right battery bars.
> QUOTE]
> My batts fit tightly, so my question is: what are the right battery bars? I use Dean's Probar 3.


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## usagi (Feb 11, 2002)

BTW, who has the lowest prices on the e-maxx?

Thank you


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

usagi said:


> BTW, who has the lowest prices on the e-maxx?
> 
> Thank you


I just picked one up and this was the lowest price I found.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVS28**&P=0

Good luck


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

JB, I use Deans bars but I flatten them out a little with pliers and a hammer on cement (I don't have a vice!). If I could find perfectly flat bars I would use them, I had some at one time but they have been discontinued & I can't remember what they were called.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Tom,
Wanted to thank you again for the reminder to check things out. I found three things that needed adjustment. Two screws needed tighting and one motor/pinion needed to be adjustment. Thanks.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

I just bought off eBay and installed a complete front and rear end with 2.5 parts (arms, towers, gearbox, the works), new. I noticed that the new parts have spacers on the upper arms. Since I don't have a book, what are these for? Caster adjustment perhaps or something else?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

OvalmanPA said:


> I just bought off eBay and installed a complete front and rear end with 2.5 parts (arms, towers, gearbox, the works), new. I noticed that the new parts have spacers on the upper arms. Since I don't have a book, what are these for? Caster adjustment perhaps or something else?


yes, the clips are for caster


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Glad to help Bill! There always seems to be at least 1 loose screw under the gear cover, I don't know why. Bu I had someone tell me that before I bought my first E-Maxx, & it was true for both of them I bought.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Or in Tom's case, one loose screw behind the wheel...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

But that one has stripped threads Hank. No hope! :lol:


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Stripped?!?!?! I don't even want to think about THAT!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Oh c'mon Hankie. Ya know you can't help it! :tongue:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Man, I think I have the worst luck with my emaxx. The day before RCX I fried a cell in one of my battery packs. Because I only have 2, I wasn't able to run the maxx. When I got that fixed, I drove my maxx from the garage through my house to the back yard. That resulted in a broken front driveshaft. I ran it for about 30 seconds in my yard before I snapped a rear driveshaft. Well, I take it inside, and a little over an hour later its running again. I had a jumping session in the yard and it did fine. How it could break two shafts from 2 minutes of running and then withstand a jumping session with out "breaking" is beyond me. I emphasize breaking because although nothing broke, a pinion gear slid off one of the motors and got lost in the yard (I haven't been using the gear cover). Oh well, I guess that's another trip to Ultimate Hobbies for me... :tongue:


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Does moving the clips result in about 5 degrees of caster adjustment one way or another then? I'd assume that the rear would adjust antisquat then correct? Nice new features for this monster.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

caster adjustments:
two shims in the front is 4 degrees
one shim on each side (one front, one rear) is 7 degrees
two shims in the rear is 10 degrees


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Cool, thanks for the info. Anything in the book about the rear however? Seems like it would work about the same back there, only adjusting antisquat instead?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yeah, seems like it. more than likely goes in the same three degree intervals as the front, too (-3, 0, 3).

bummer, JB. so did you make it to RCX anyway? i couldnt go (school). oh well, hopefully its an anuall (sp?) event, so i can go next year..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yeah I made it to rcx. Simply awsome. They had an oval track set up with a skateboard roll in launching a nitro truck a good 15 or so feet in the air. In an odd twist, the truck actually collided with an airplane flying overhead.
They also had a dirt track set up. They were running various trucks and buggies on it. They had some small jumps and two massive jumps. The guys from kyosho were great; they had three mp7.5's on the track landing backflips off the big jumps.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Servo?

Have you guys up graded your steering servo. If so what have you found works well. How strong should I go?

Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I have a HiTec 945 in mine and a Futaba 9402 in the Kids truck.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

A s trong as you can afford. I went with a Hitec 5945MG Digital Metal gear servo. 181 oz. at 0.13 second. $90.00 at rcmodels.com


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Thank you guys,

http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/index.html

Has the Hitec's listed at $89.95 for the 5945 and $73.95 for the 945. With free shipping :thumbsup: 

What is ment by "coreless standard"?


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Coreless is the type of motor used... it is stronger and smoother then a "normal" motor. I am assuming by Standard they are talking the size of the servo... most RC cars (and the E-Maxx) use what is sometimes called the "standard" size.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Thanks Hank for the information.

Need one more question answered. Would you link me to the info on becoming a Hobby Talk member or post the address here. I'm sorry for not having done this sooner. Supporting your site is money well spent.

Thanks
Bill

PS - I found it, checks in the mail, well it will be tomorrow. :lol:


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Glad top help and thanks for the support. It helps keep the site running!


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## eHobbies (May 9, 2003)

Bill said:


> Thank you guys,
> 
> http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/index.html
> 
> ...


We'd rather see you shop at www.rcmodels.com and www.eHobbies.com since we're a sponsor here. We'll match any competitors pricing. Just mention HobbyTalk forums in the comments section during checkout.

Kevin


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Thanks for the tip, I'll still support the LHS!


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## eHobbies (May 9, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Thanks for the tip, I'll still support the LHS!


That's great. If you live in Southern California, please support our local hobby shop http://www.ehobbies.com/info.html#business

Kevin
eHobbies - a proud member of NRHSA
National Retail Hobby Shop Association


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hope you didn't take that as a slam on Mail order... You guys are a necessity, some people are not as lucky as I am to have 5 hobby shops within 30 minutes & 3 of them have indoor tracks (1 carpet, 1 dirt, & 1 with both!)


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## Greg Anthony (Sep 10, 2002)

eHobbies said:


> We'll match any competitors pricing. Just mention HobbyTalk forums in the comments section during checkout.
> 
> Kevin


Is thta any mail order competitor, or any LHS competator???


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## jeepracer (Mar 27, 2003)

hey, i've been having a problem with my e-maxx i bought one when they first came out and i already went through three sets of motors
i never messed with the gearing or anything but i did change it over to 
2wd is there something wrong with the stock motors or what
help me out this thing gets expensive
thanks,
jake


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I've kept mine 4wd and have not gone thru that many motors. Motors do burn out without notice at times, how much do you run yours?


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Greg, what are you doing on a e-maxx site? Well I guess you could put some big joes on your TC3. :lol: :lol:


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## Greg Anthony (Sep 10, 2002)

I should be asking you the same thing there "Special-K"


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## jeepracer (Mar 27, 2003)

well usually i would run about six sets of packs through it during the weekend and yes i do abuse it but its a e-maxx its made to take pain
thanks,
jake


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

im just guessing, but using only 2wd puts more stress on the motors because your acclerating a 10+lbs. truck that was designed for 4wd. sure, half the time i'm running my maxx, the two front wheels are off the ground, but when accelerating in 2nd, they arent, which means that all four wheels are making the truck go forward. this is why on other cars motors and speedos heat up, because your geared to high. but instead of gearing, your lugging down the drive wheels.

just a SWAG answer. feel free to bash it or correct me.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Actually I don't think it's harder on the motors, just the drive train.

What's hard on the motors is serious bashing if you run it in tall grass, or very dusty conditions it will cause them to wear out prematurely. Plus bashers tend to be heavy on the throttle and do alot of "R-D's" (Reverse-drive) to do wheelies & throw dirt which can adversely effect the longevity of the motors.

Hope that helped explain a little


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yes, running 2wd is harder on the drivetrain. no doubt about that!
the 2wd thing might be the problem, but your hypothesis seems more correct. oh well, i tried to help.... and i got some more posts, too!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol... trust me, 2wd is much harder on the drivetrain. I broke two more driveshafts this weekend. First the front, then the rear. I blame that on my terra crusher tires....
i want cvd's so bad, but they dont fit in my budget. oh well......


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Catch 22 there... If you buy the CVD's you won't buy them anymore, if you stick with the plastic sliders they break and you buy more. Eventually you end up spending the same amount of money. 1 way is cheaper up front but causes more wrenching, the other way costs more at first but makes for less wrenching & more reliability.


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## eHobbies (May 9, 2003)

Greg Anthony said:


> Is thta any mail order competitor, or any LHS competator???


any mail order or LHS, as long as long as we and they have the same item in stock. Hope that clears up your confusion


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Hey Tom, I found out how to keep those pins in our cvd's, if you have'nt found out yet. Dynamite sells a cvd shaft boot ,part# DYN7687. After you put threadlock on the set screw's, slide the boot's on around the pin's and the output shaft and dont worry about them anymore. :thumbsup:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I use shrink tube. you find some large diameter QUALITY shrink tube, cut about 1/4 of an inch off (more or less), stretch it out with some pliers, slip it on, and heat it up. been working fine for me for a while, and best of all, my dad pays for the shrink tube!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Last time I was at Larry's I picked up some of the large shrink tube for it. Now I just gotta get another drive cup and re-install it.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Hi Guys,

We fried the slipper and spur. Is there a club we can join now! :lol: 

My question is can I use 12 friction pegs without any problems. It seems to me that using 12 instead of 6 would help it hold better. We have done this on the Epede without any problems.

What do you all think?

Thanks
Bill


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

sure, not a problem 12 can be better than 6.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Thanks Tom. I was thinking of bad joke but I think it's best I let that pass.


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

Anyone know the weight of a stock e-maxx?


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

8 lbs. and change, I think.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I was thinking the same when I posted that Bill....

What do you need to know that for Lollie? you got some fancy mathmatics to apply before the next MARS? some kind of Weight x speed = inertia / torque + RPM x angle of ascent = distance in flight?? :tongue:


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Thanks Tom :lol:


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

tommckay said:


> What do you need to know that for Lollie? you got some fancy mathmatics to apply before the next MARS? some kind of Weight x speed = inertia / torque + RPM x angle of ascent = distance in flight?? :tongue:


You will find out in Jackson.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

OK, I'll be a waitin'!!


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

I put it on a scale today and it was 11 lbs


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Oops! sounds like Bill was a little light!

Was that with batteries?


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Does anyone know if running two 19-turn motors (trinity) hurt your evx? Because I just ran them, and it was FAST   . But it smelled a little funny.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

BIGG-K said:


> Does anyone know if running two 19-turn motors (trinity) hurt your evx? Because I just ran them, and it was FAST . But it smelled a little funny.


any motor other then the stock titians will need consistand rebuilding and work in order to keep them in good condition. the smell was probably the comm and brushes, which are burnt up. remember, the EVX sends out 14.4+ volts out, where a normal motor is only made to run 8.4 or a little over. even if they are the monster maxx (?) motors that are "made" for the emaxx, they will still need rebuilding often. only motor that I have heard that will take the abuse of the 14.4 volt system and come back for more, other then the titans, are the magnetic mayhems by kyosho (sp?). and even those need maintnance every few runs. every motor will make the maxx seem faster, untill it starts throwing winds or burnin' comms..

p.s. its amazing what you can learn from maxxtraxx :tongue:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You can run regular motors with a dual ESC set up, 1 battery & ESC per motor, but then you loose some of the oomph that the 14.4 gives you.

I'd love to try the Brushless system in mine, but then it wouldn't be race legal. And beyond that, I don't have the money!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

just had quite a scare..
i was running my maxx and noticed that it was no longer pulling wheelies on the concret (sp?) like it normally does. so i walk over to it, give it a slight pull of the trigger, and hear a "rat... tat... tat" sound coming from the rear. right then, i was like "aww crud, blew the diff." having planned out $300 to go into my paintball gun, i did not really want to replace the stock diffs (even though they arent that expensive). i took it inside, and start taking off the rear tires. i had the right off, and was going to to the left. at that moment, i noticed what was making the sound. it was the plasic hex adapter going "tat...tat..tat" on the inside of the wheel. the night before, i was thinking about taking apart the diff, but decided not to. however, i had just hand tightened the left lock nut, so it had gradually loosened enough for the wheel to slip. none the less, i was happy, and learned a lesson to always check things like that before i run.

just felt like posting something about me being dumb


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Thanks for the info Smojoe, and Tom. I was just bored and on vacation and tried something new. But today I put the titans back in after a good cleaning. And its back to the toolbox for the 19-turns ontil the CRL starts back up this fall.And dont feel bad Smojoe I did the same thing. Thank God you have to take the wheels off to get to the diff.  :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Don't know about that, Ive popped the diff out with only removing 14 screws and no tires before. But I did take the tires off for re-assembly!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i take those big lugs off whenever i work on the truck. its had to work on with these huge things gettin in the way. i just find it easier to take them off...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yes it is much eaiser, but when you're kinda P.O.'d and just want to get to it......


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

true... true...

anyway, i decided to go for the bombproof "torpedo" chassis instead of the gorillamaxx. main reason for this was because of the gorillamaxx's price jump from $150 to $250 (give or take). that, and the torpedo is proven to take the abuse of twin brushless (something i hope to have, even if it takes me a few years).


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Yeah I was a little pissed off when I snapped the four screws that hold the gear housing together in the rear end. No more 7-cells for me. Plus, after I cleaned the motors up real good, and oiled them, the truck is pretty fast again stock. :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Torpedo chassis? who makes that & can I see it on the web?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Torpedo chassis? who makes that & can I see it on the web?


yeah, its made by "bomb-proof products"
heres their site: http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/

go into the picture gallery and download the movie of the guy smacking it with a hammer. looks tough to me! :devil:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

If it didn't extend the chassis so much it would be interesting to me, But I don't like the extended chassis.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yeah, thats what turned me off at first from buying it. but then i saw the price, and how much every other chassis that was similar cost, and that changed my mind. also, they have the racebomb chassis, which doesnt extend the maxx that much (half an inch, i think). the owner of the company has twin hackers on it, so its gotta be tough too!


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Hey Tom, I'm going to canton this weekend with my e-maxx and my TC3. I'm going to see if I can get a class of e-maxxes going. Come on out if you get a chance. And anyone else who lives in the area. :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I'll be in Saginaw at Sand Hill this weekend, gonna check out their dirt track.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

*RPM arms*

got some RPM arms for my maxx today. all i can say is wow! geeze, those things are beefy! only have them in the front right now, and it makes the stock 2.5 arms look like twigs. needless to say, i will be going back to the LHS soon to pick up some rears (got more money for my birthday). i also picked up some trinity "heavy" springs (the blue ones). i only one pack of four, and now i can take almost all the preload spacers off of the shocks.
also, i will only be spending about 200 on my paintball gun, so hopefully that bomb-proof chassis will be arriving to my house earlier! :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Wow, no activity in a little while........


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## Ducklake (Jun 13, 2003)

Me, & My Wife's Trucks:









My Truck with dual Novak's:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Interesting shot...... Yours is the Blue one isn't it!

Be careful, you may end up with Mini-Maxxes! :lol:


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## Ducklake (Jun 13, 2003)

Actually mine's the Silver one, she must like it on top :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Oh.....  :thumbsup:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

how does the truck handle with twin novaks? by looking at the pic, it looks like you still have the stock sliders. are those (or the tranny, for that matter) giving you any problems?


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## Ducklake (Jun 13, 2003)

The only problems i've had are the rear drive shaft, it keeps twisting them from the torque  

Also, i put 18 cells in it  
Alot more power!! I know their only rated for 14, but i thought i'd try it.
Their running good so far, i been keeping a close eye on them.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

What about speed? 
Your pretty lucky if only one of the driveshafts is giving you problems. I've got the stock motors on my maxx, but with larger tires (I used to have tamiya terra crusher tires on it) I was snapping driveshafts left and right.


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## motomotoman (Oct 10, 2002)

I hope you guys can help me.

I have 2 Magnetic Mayhem motors - 22 turn that I would like to put in my E-Maxx. What gearing should I use with the stock speed control?

Thank you very much for your help!!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Time to lift it from the bottom....

Sorry Motoman, I never run anything but the stockers so I have no idea about gearing other motors. I guess no one else on this thread does either.


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

I'd try 14/68 and check how hot it (ESC) gets after about 2 min run time. The mayhems have more RPMs than stock, but I understand the comms should be cut fairly frequently because of the higher voltage.

Everything has a price....more power = more parts.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Just curious as to if anyone has seen up close or even tried one of the new Mtronics ESCs designed for the Maxx truck? Supposed to be waterproof which would be WONDERFUL as a couple guys have found in our area.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Nope. But waterproof?? thatwould make the E-maxx in the snow real fun!!


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Yes it would and it would sure save on a lot of problems with people that find a puddle unexpectedly also.


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

UHHHhhh,,...yeah.....huh....huh! I learned acouple of things from that little lesson. I drilled some small holes in the chassis to let the water get out. Also, if it happens again I'll still pull the power plugs immediately, but I'll also take time to remove the EVX, open it up and completely dry it out before I put power to it and try it. 
I also learned that Traxxas service is very good... they replaced my EVX with about a 3 week turnaround. Pretty hard to beat if you ask me.
Wanna play around the water? Get a boat!


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

*Mtroniks Super E-Truck ESC*



OvalmanPA said:


> Just curious as to if anyone has seen up close or even tried one of the new Mtronics ESCs designed for the Maxx truck? Supposed to be waterproof which would be WONDERFUL as a couple guys have found in our area.


When i first saw this ESC I wasn't able to get much info on it, but since then I found these specs:

_Mtroniks Super E-Truck_
2 motor, 2 battery
forward, brake & reverse
single motor limit: none
twin motor limit: series wired: none
twin motor limit: parallel wired, 2x15T
# of cells: 5-12
weight: 50gm (no wires)
size: L 68.0 x W 34.0 x H 15.0mm
freq: 2.5Khz
voltage drop 10A, 0.0068V
continuous current:250A
peak current: 510A

It also has brake light circuitry, and yes....*"Totally Waterproof"*


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I found all those specs, but the only US distributor they listed only advertises the low end sport for $30. I want to know how I could get one if I want and what it would cost in US $$, not british pounds.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Hi Tom,

Here is some info and $$ on their line of ESC's.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/prdcls/caascfr01.asp


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Thanks Bill! That's what I wanted to know. I think maybe if I blow out an ESC I might go that direction. I'll have to see. I have the 2 EVXs that are in the trucks and a back-up.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Tom, I think the only place I've seen them is at Hobby People and they are like $140 if I remember correctly.

Haha, guess we were posting at the same time.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Saved from 8 days of inactivity!!


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## Kirsten1 (Oct 4, 2001)

What is the most extreme Mod Motors anyone has put in with great results, besides Brushless or MAXX Milds, Wilds. I am looking at 2 10T Trinity Flatliners.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I only run the stock units, thats all that is allowed for racing where I am. And they are fast enough with TONS of torque, I really don't see the point in the motor swap, the aftermarket motors require way too much maintenance in the MAXX after feeding them 14.4v all the time.


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## Kirsten1 (Oct 4, 2001)

I know that the stock Titans are powerful for most, but to get ballastic power for about 3 minutes is all I need for now. Just toying with it.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Kristen, why not a brushless?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I agree with Bill. You need to hop-up the drive train in order for it to stand up to “ballistic” power, anyway. Why not just go the whole nine yards and go brushless? Plus, you will be looking at run times far better then three minutes.


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## Kirsten1 (Oct 4, 2001)

I have done all the beefing up already. I ran 2 Novak Super Sports in it, but for pulling and drag racing it through a rock climb and dirt straight away, brushless isnt allowed at this event. Because the winner will be the guy / gal with the most cash in there truck.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, that rules brushless out... 
how much money are you willing to spend? because you cant go brushless, you could use the following set up (though it might not be well suited for the rock climbing part)

-bomb proof torpedo chassis (lots -o- cells and is, well, bomb proof)
-twin novak super roosters (can handle the cells and low turn motors)
-twin trinity D5 flatliners (dunno what turn would be best, but maybe 8 or 9)
-GP 3300 cells (nice and powerful. good run times,too)

like i said, this isnt going to be cheap. just the stuff i named will run you around $500.


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## Kirsten1 (Oct 4, 2001)

Oh, I am well aware of the costs of these items. I was thinking about 8T Flatliners myself, just wondering if anyone has them installed.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

smojoe said:


> well, that rules brushless out...
> how much money are you willing to spend? because you cant go brushless, you could use the following set up (though it might not be well suited for the rock climbing part)
> 
> -bomb proof torpedo chassis (lots -o- cells and is, well, bomb proof)
> ...


Good list Smoejoe, But you forgot the 1/8th scale diff conversion, steel Idler gears for the tranny, and CVD's all around! :lol: 

If money was no object, I'd go with all of it!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Anyone modified their tranny? I just did. I'm trying a custom mod by taking out 1st gear all together, Idler & main gear. I attached the drive "yoke" that slides back & forth to the 2nd speed main gear with 2 bolts and super glue. Now the only slop in the transmission is gear lash. I took out the shift fork, shaft it rides on and Shoe Gooed over the holes, custom fabricated a filler where the old 1st gear main gear was so the shaft doesn't slide back & forth. Now I'm strictly 2nd gear and have instant response in acceleration & braking.

I am also thinking of another modification that I noticed could be a problem. The Motor plate. I took my motors out to clean them up and ya know what I discovered? Dirt. Lots of dirt right at the end of the motor where it mounts to the motor plate. They advertise these Titan motors as Fan Cooled, you can see the fan at the end bell, and if it blows the air down past the armature to cool it, where is that air going to go? The motor plate blocks the vent holes at the end. I saw evidence that the air is circulating along with the dust and the dust seems to stick & gather at the vent holes that are blocked, hence the dirt. My plan would be to drill a couple extra holes in the motor plate that would correspond with the vents in the can of the motor so the air (and dust) could pass thru. Hopefully making a cleaner and cooler motor. The other option is a spacer between the motor and the motor plate that would allow the air to flow out, but that takes more ingenuity than I have time for.

Opinions?


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Tom you said....The other option is a spacer between the motor and the motor plate that would allow the air to flow out, but that takes more ingenuity than I have time for.

Maybe you do. 

I was looking at the same problem and was thinking of using washers between the motor and motor plate. Just had not had a chance to see if the pinion gear could be adjusted to fit the spur/pinion mesh correctly.

The vent holes would work as well so I guess it depends on which is easier.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

looking at my maxx, there seems to be about 1/4 of an inch of space to move the pinion out to. I too noticed that there was no place for air circulation. there is no place for air to travel into the motor, and the rotors of the fan just push air out. great idea tom! :thumbsup: im going outside now to see what i can do....


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Done! here are my findings:
- there is a larger volume of air that is pushed out by the fans (which means more air traveling through motor)
- the stock motor mount screws are a little short, but still work. next time i go to my local hardware store, i will be picking up some longer ones (which means i can insert more washers, too)
- the pinions still mesh well (still room on the shaft)

each washer was about 1/16 of an inch wide. i mounted two per screw, or four for each motor. i have yet to run it (batts are almost dead and i have to go mow my lawn), but so far, all is well.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Great work Smojoe, your quick.

Do me a favor and watch the wear pattern on the pinion and spur, if any. I'm concerned that now that the motor is not "seated" to the plate there will be some play or flexing while under load.

Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Aahh! Thanks for the quick info Smoejoe! now I gotta get to work. Bill is on the track I was thinking of, if you just use washers at the screw holes it seems like there would be a possibility of motor "Wobble" if driven hard. I started thinking of the washer idea after my post, but on a larger scale. What about a big 'ol fender washer? Ya know, one the size of the can itself with a hole in the center big enough for the nub that the bushing rests in can slip thru. then it could be dremeled out into kind of a star pattern so there is support at different areas around the can but still room for the air to flow thru. Sounds like a plan to me, worth a 40 cent investment at Home Depot to give it a try. Just take a motor in to check size and then Dremel away!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Sometimes I suprise myself........... :tongue:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I did notice just a nick of play when installing the washers. Grabbing hold of the motor and pushing it up and down verified that. It does not seem like much, but that is just by using my hand, not by using 14.4 volts on a high torque motor. Oh well, that is why I bought a Kimbrough (sp?) spur gear. I will keep you guys updated! :thumbsup:


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Gotta love team work :thumbsup:


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

Tom. I can't remember if I mentioned it to you at Jackson or not. I had already removed all the first gear stuff from the tranny. I superglued the floater to the 2nd gear but did not screw them together. I added some thick foam washers (like 1/4inch thick body foams) to the shaft to keep the floater pressed towards the gear if the glue was to break free. This provided instant response at take-off. I ran it like that at Jackson with no problems.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah you told me about that's what got me thinking about it. I tore the trans down just to check things out and got to looking at it, and did some comparing. Saw where I could run a couple 4-40 bolts thru by drilling only 2 holes in the main gear (none in the floater) so they would make like a stop and have no play between the 2 gears. I didn't want to trust just glue! The bolts are exactly opposite each other so the balance of the gear was not upset in any way, and then a few drops of CA around the circumference where the gears touch for good measure. I drilled the hole a little small so I actually had to thread the bolt thru and then put a lock nut on the other end, seems pretty rugged and stout. I'm gonna get a couple washers and dremel away at them, install them and give it a run this weekend to see how it acts. 

Got new batteries, all cleaned up and some small modifications, should be ready to go.... Looking for the 150 points in Lansing!! :lol:


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## perez1410 (Sep 29, 2001)

Tom, keep looking for those 150 points.....But let me tell you, you are not going to find them! LOL!

If I make it to Lansing, I will have my truck ready w/o tie straps this time!


Carlos


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah... I got your number for the next race, it's 3. as in 3rd in the B main. :jest:


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## Ducklake (Jun 13, 2003)

Where are you guy's Racing, in Lansing, and Jackson?
Thanks for the info


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

We've already been to Litchfield and Jackson. Lansing is next on the MARS schedule. If you don't know about mars, It's a 5 race series at 5 different tracks. Each event usually brings 250-300 entries. you can find flyers and rules for all the races HERE (marsracing.com) 
If you have any questions, feel free to ask here, or find the MARS thread under the Off-Road and Dirt section.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Only a couple more days before she gets raced again.... I bashed 2 sets of race packs thru it pretty hard and it seemed to hold up great and act nice. I'm ready!


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Good luck to all you racer types. :thumbsup: 

Has anyone tried the new RPM carriers and bearings yet? Any news?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

here is what i have found (i've been busy, so cut me some slack...)

- motors DO run cooler. I have only ran it twice with the "mod" but can tell a difference in motor temp afterwards
- no noticable motor play under load. however, this is only after two runs...

Bill-
at my LHS i compared the RPM hub-carriers to the stock ones, and you can easily tell a difference if beefyness (if thats a word). if they are as strong as their A- arms, then they should be well worth their rather hefty price tag ($33 or so at my LHS).


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Smojoe, thanks. I'm not able to run down to the LHS and check these things out so I really am thankful for your input and effort. 

Have you long term Emaxx owners found the bearing carriers on the stock truck to be weak?

Good news on the motor spacing idea. Air flow = a good thing.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

No, not really. I have only broken 1, and that was on the rear. The ear that the control rod attaches to broke off.

My motor mod seems to have worked well on my truck, but my son smoked a motor in his during the main with the same mod, so now I wonder. It was probably just that motors time to go......


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## Wildstang (Apr 20, 2002)

*E-Maxx clicking under torque*

Has anyone else experienced any god-awful clicking coming from their drive train when their E-Maxx is under high torque conditions (accelleration)?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yes. It usually means a problem with the rear diff. Probably the pinion slipping a tooth on the ring gear. Time for a new ring & pinion. Make sure the pinion is shimmed to make proper contact with the ring gear.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

check and make sure your rear lock-nuts are tight. i had a "god-awful" clicking noise once and it was just because the lock- nut had loosened and the hex wheel adaptor was skipping over the hex on the wheel. that, or the diff..


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

Smo,
In his case (I've seen his truck) it's the diff case splitting open under torque. Mine does the same thing. I've shimmed the input gear so it's closer to the ring gear. I also crammed some spacers between the gear case halfs and the bulkhead to hold the case together. It helps, but there is still some slipping. I have, of course, checked the gears to make sure they are in good shape and they look like new. It's just a crappy design to only have two screws holding the case halfs together. I know that an aluminum diff case will solve the problem. This just proves e-maxxes are money pits. The real disappointment is that we bought these things because they are supposed to be fun and I had hoped they would be low-maintenance. We never play with them, only race, and that's only been 6 race days. There are guys out there with old maxxes that bash with them all the time (on pavement too) and never take care of them and have no problems. We are racing on very low-traction dirt with the stock titan motors which should be easy on them. twisting things because of torque should not be an issue for us. In 6 races (12 practice runs, 15 qualifiers, 6 mains = 33 runs) I've probably hit 5 tubes, 3 other trucks, and been on my roof 2 times. I'm really easy on equipment. I just didn't expect so many problems. It just really sucks that for everything that goes wrong - the answer is throwing more money (aluminum and aftermarket parts) at it.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

There all kinds of wierd problems going on.... I've had my maxx for a little over a year and a half, bought it used off E-bay and have not had the diff case separation like Kevin (We race in the same series) but have had different diff problems. I've had Idler gears in the trans explode, he hasn't. His truck is faster than mine, maybe he has [email protected] cells where I only run 1.16s, don't know. I even go out and bash with mine periodically.

Maybe that's the problem Kevin... You don't bash it! :tongue: :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hey, where'd everybody go?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

highschool, homework, and working on my airboat. need a better charger for cheap for my batts so i dont have so much down-time. any suggestions? i have been looking at the superbrain 969 (or whatever the new version is), but the hundred dollar price tag is setting me back. think i could trade my 959 in with some cash to get it? :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Cheap? Look at the Duratrax Pulse charger. Charges up to 6amps has it's own built in power supply and is NiMh compatible. $54.99 at my LHS (Last time I bought one, I have 2). The other option is a GM Powercharger a guy on these boards is selling for like $45 each (you'd have to do a search on the accessories swap board), I bought 2 from him and like them alot. Charge up to 6.5 amps, built in power supply and cooling fan. No LED readouts on either one though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

have any of you looked at American CNC Machining's products before? I was looking at their bulks, which for $25 for front OR rear, seem pretty good looking. sure, their probaby no GA (Great Assembly) bulks, but for $50 bucks for the whole set, it seems worth it. 

p.s. ACNCM is http://www.acncm.com and GA is http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/bulks.shtml


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Smojoe, the 969 looks great. I'm planning to buy one to replace my broken 959. I like it because it will charge my 6 cell sub-c packs, receiver packs, and the 12 volt battery for my starter box. For the price, it looks great. The only downside is that when charging two batts, it cant do 4.5 volts for both of them (the PS is rated at 5 amps).


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

What?? No posts in 5 days??? enough of that! Bash session this weekend! Whoopee dooo!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, i dont really have anything emaxx related to talk about because i have yet to run my truck in about half a month  just dont have time, and whenever i DO have time, my POS "super"brain false peaks after four minutes, even when charging a 3.0 amps. and i dont have any money to send it in/ replace it with something else because all my $$ is goin into my paintball gun or my airboat. 

oh, and tom, I never found the guy selling the GM Powerchargers. could you post a link, Im gonna be working this weekend and _hopefully_ $50 or so will find its way into my wallet :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Smojoe, I did some searching and found the guys name that sold them to me, he's on Hobbytalk a "michal", his name is Mike. I sent him an E-mail for info & his "in-stock" status this morning, when I hear back I'll post up so you'll know.

In the meantime, if you want to see what I'm talking about, see here: http://www.gm-racing.com/englisch/hauptseite/index_e.htm Look under Products - chargers - Powercharger.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

thanks a ton, tom! :thumbsup: just need some better batts and everything will be excelent.  


sorry for such a late post. have be occupied by more "educational" things


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

No problem, unfortunately I have not heard back from him via E-mail. His profile said he last posted on 8/14 (I think) when I checked it, so he does still visit. I know he had a website he was selling them off of but I don't know the URL anymore. I bought mine last December so all that has been forgotten.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

I don't know anything about the charger that Tom's is recommending so I can't comment about which is better. But I thought I would add that for the same price the Piranha Digital Peak Charger has been a great charger for me.

Tom I still plan on asking you some questions about gear mods, just have not had the chance to write them down. Soon I hope.

Bye


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I have one of those GM chargers and use it a lot. I believe the web site was gmstuff.com but I see that doesn't take us to the right page.


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

Anyone interested in making a REAL monster truck out of their E Maxx with Clodbuster wheels & tires might be interested in this setup:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=60668


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I just got some 40 series Mashers for the rig.... they are significantly bigger than the bowties, but only seem minimally bigger than the Mulchers.... Probably just the large pins on the Mulchers make it look that way. Can't wait to give'em a try! May have to gear down a tooth though.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

I have only 8 runs on my stocker, and I think my evx is cutting out. At the beginning of the run it will stop and then start for about 2-3 minutes and then is ok the rest of the run. When I squeeze full trigger, the lite is green, but nothing happens (only steering) Is that my esc thermal??


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not at the beginning of the run. Possibly at the end. Sounds like you have a defective unit.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Every time I have steering but no movement I check my connections and brushes, works for me most of the time. Hope it's a quick fix for ya.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

OK, I installed the 40 series mashers & geared down a tooth. Still FAST! but was running out od power at the 4:30 mark... Gotta go 5:30 in racing So I beileve I'll have to go down another tooth to make run time. The Mashers are cool though!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

they have 40 series MASHERS now?!?! i thought they only had the big joes and roadrage. geeze, has it really been that long since my last trip to the hobby shop......

anyways, i have officially "shelfed" my maxx because i am currently putting all avalible money into my paintball gun. but if anyone wants to donate some money or a charger to the "help a kid run his maxx" fund, it would be more then appreciated.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Paintball... Another money sucking hobby! 

Yes they have 40 Series Mashers and another style like the dirt hawg, but i cant remember the name of them.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Paintball... Another money sucking hobby!
> .



True, true....

My emaxx is also shelved right now, but because my transmitter is acting up. I'm just gonna buy an fm rx and use my hitec radio instead of the tq3

So what do you have in mind for your tl+, smojoe? Did you get that hpa tank yet?
If you haven't allready, check out pbreview.com. It is probably the most helpful site around. I dont use the forums, but you can find some of my reviews on there under shutter_guy.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

in a sad attempt to keep this R/C related...
currently running HPA (nitrogen), dye ultralite, rico ak, and will have a spudnuk'l bolt and 32* valve on soon

oh, and went through the most recent RCCA mag and saw the mashers and dirt hawgs (i think). geeze, just another thing to my list of stuff i want for my maxx.....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

cool....
Those tires do look pretty cool, especially the 40 series mashers, but A. no money for that kind of thing and B. I was snapping driveshafts with the terra crusher tires, so I dont plan on getting any more big tires.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I hope I can get the smaller pinoins for my truck before this weekend, last big race for the season! The LHS says they should be in Wednesday.


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Anyone tried the two novak rooster setup yet? If so, how do you mount them? And do they work better?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I personally wouldn't think that would be better. The motor limit on the evx is 19t, I think, and the dual roosters would be 15. It would be expensive and complex for a relatively small speed gain.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Paintball... Another money sucking hobby!
> .


Do you play?
Ahh!  my maxx is still down. This is kind of irritating


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

most people who use dual roosters (from my experiance) also run aftermarket chassis that hold more cells. they use the roosters because they can handle 10 cells each, making 20 cells for the truck, vs. the EVX total of only 14. if you running the stock chassis or an aftermarket chassis that only supports the use of 14 cells, i dont see the point of upgrading. however, if you do have a chassis that supports more cells, and are to cheap to go brushless, then there should be a performance increase.

as for mounting them, you could mount on in front, one in back, and then mount the RX to the shocktower, or foam tape them back to back then mount them. however, it would be more stable to make an upsidedown T bracket and mount them to the sides of the T.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I also saw an artical where a guy took out the shift servo, locked the truck into second gear with a piece of fuel tubing, and put a rooster where the evx was and another where the shift servo was


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I don't play Paintball, but know people who do.

The dual rooster thing allows you to run 2 regular motors with 7.2v to each motor instead of 14.4 with the EVX. I believe there is just more motor maintenance with the rooster set up.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

you would think there would be more maintenance. using non- bulletproof motors on 7.4+ volts while trying to accelerate a 10+ lbs truck. geeze, and i thought i was tough on my 12 turn.. (which, ironicly, isnt working at the moment)


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

speaking of bullet proof motors, about how long will the titan 550's last? I have over a year on mine and they seem pretty good still.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I've had 2 E-Maxxes for over a year, I've seen 3 Titians go up in smoke between the 2 of them and one was because one motor backed away from the spur so the whole truck was running on that 1 motor. I guess it was just their time for the other two. Other than that the performance doesn't seem to suffer although the Run time gets shorter with age.


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Thanks for the info guys, I've already orderd them so I'm going to use the idea of one in the front, and one in the back. And move my reciever to the shock tower. I've got a JR system in it so that wont look all that bad. Thanks again. :thumbsup:


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Its funny you guys should mention paintballing, because I got a kid across the street from me into r/c cars and now he's trying to get me into paintballing. But I dont know because growing up on Detroits east side I had to duck a lot worst than paint balls.  :lol:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Then it should come naturally to you lol.
I think I may just get a new pair of motors. The last time I ran my maxx, it was working well and all of a sudden the power decreased. I thought the batteries were dying, but it ran slowly for quite a while. It almost seemed like one motor lost a pinion gear or fried, because as slow as it was it wasn't slowing down even more like it does when the battery dumps.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

save you cash and just go brushless :lol: 

but seriously, a basic lenier (sp?) BL system is what, 100- 150 bucks? after going through motors and EVXs, it just might be worth it. personally, im shooting for dual hackers. no better conversation piece then "i spent 1K on electric motors."


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

dual hackers? Dang thats a lot of power. In the 2003 rcca monster truck edition a guy did that. It says that his truck's drivetrain only lasted a few minutes with both of them.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

thats why you have to spend another 1 - 2k to get the drivetrain worthy of the power. 

isnt this a _great_ hobby we have?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

truly it is
ah heck why dont you just take your emaxx to a machine shop and ask them to make you a complete titanium drivetrain, from the gears to the diffs to the driveshafts. That should easily meet (or beat) your price quota.
Well, at least in rc a $40 dollar hop up lasts longer than a $40 dollar case of PMI Premiums.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

If you do enough looking you can buy everything without custom fabrication. steel Idlers, 1/8th scale diff conversions & CVD's all around is all you should need, all for under $600 I believe.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> Well, at least in rc a $40 dollar hop up lasts longer than a $40 dollar case of PMI Premiums.


yeah, i guess your right. anyways, got the spudnuk'l bolt and 32* valve on. working great! just need an e-frame now....


and tom, its called overkill. if your going that big, you have to get the best and most expensive parts avalible....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

cool...
Is there really such a thing as overkill? That would be pretty cool to have a dual brushless 1/8 scale e-maxx. I think that the 1/8 scale drivetrain is probably one of the best. Not too many components to break, big gears, and huge, beefy diffs.

Sorry about being OT, but what kind of difference did you see in performance w/ the bolt and valve? If you dont mind, please PM me or just post here


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yeah, 1/8 diffs are the way to go. i have spent WAY to much time messing with the stock diffs. i forgot who, but someone was going to make a bulletproof tranny for the maxx. that, besides the diff and axles, is the weakest point on the maxx. with the stock motors and mild- mod motors its fine, but once you get into brushless and other high- power motors, you might as well wave goodbye to the tranny. 

so far the bolt is the best because there is no longer "scarring" of the enternals (you know, those gouges (sp) you get in the bolt?). the valve... well..., it was more of a replacement for a "modification" that went wrong :lol:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I've snapped a few driveshafts with just the stock motors, so brushless motors would kill my tranny. But you have the new and improved shafts, right?

Yeah my stock bolt gets pretty scratched up. The bolt you bought is made of nylon and not delrin so it doesn't swell up, right? and as for mods gone wrong, I know what you mean. When I was installing my CP flame drop forward, my macroline was bent at a very sharp angle, so I bought a 90* elbow. Lets see now: my spyder has metric threads, but I bought an american air fitting. confusing the resistance for just being new threads, I cranked it down really hard. Aired it up and it leaked terribly. I screwed up the threads so bad not even the stock fitting worked. Of course the broken part is the filter attatched to the reg, which I would have to order some kingman. I just put the new elbow in really tight and JB Welded it on, sealling the threads. It doesn't leak, but I cant remove the elbow now.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

"new and improved" up front, MIP CVDs in the rear.

bolt is nylon and is supposed to be "self lubricating." geeze, looks like you had some trouble with the macroline. i just had my "pro" shop install it for me. the installation was free, i didnt care... oh, and it re-cocks at around 550 PSI. before the valve and bolt it was more like 800PSI


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I'd like cvd's but there are quite a few other things i need.

Well, I thought installing new air fittings would be easy, and if the threads were right it would have been. They also do free repairs (I've had to take my hpa tank in twice). I just need to write them a letter. Do you remember my friend you talked to in the chat room? He and I are sponsored by them, but I haven't been there in 2 months, so I feel kind of bad. So the moral of the story is... Shop at Paintball Pro Gear!! paintballprogear.com


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

oh and i forgot this in my last post, but 550 psi? thats pretty good. I'm shooting 270 at 650 psi. I think I'll try to reduce that.
Sorry about this being off topic. If any of you other three or four guys that use this thread mind, just tell me. It shouldn't bother you, considering I don't normally just post something about paintball, plus you could just read right over it. Still, if you mind, just tell me.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i had money at the time that i purchased the CVDs, and it seemed like a worth-while cause

550 is just a guesstimation FYI. the gun "burps" at around 450, so im assuming that it recocks at 550. need an inline reg and guage thats actually ON the gun to make sure (but getting an e-frame first)


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

e-frame=fun

one thing to never underestimate about the eframe is that it clicks when you pull the trigger. As that guy you talked to in the chatroom likes to say, it's pimp.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

as for what you said in your last post, rear cvd's would be a definite worthwile cause, although I snap front shafts before the rear one normally


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Gotta figure what to do to mine to get my 5.5 minutes of run time back! I dumped every run at the last race. I just took the whole truck apart not too long ago and cleaned all the bearings... Nothing seems to be binding the driveline... Maybe my new batteries are thrashed? Doubt it... But maybe I'll cycle them a couple times and check discharge time.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

try charging the batteries at less amps. supposed to give you more runtime, but decreases "punch." i noticed my runtimes were about two minutes longer when I started chargin at 3.0 amps Vs. 4.5 amps. however, i also noticed a decrease in wheelie power and top speed.

JB- if your encredibly (sp?) desperate (sp?) i believe MIP sells front, rear, and center shiny CVDs for around 100 bucks. however, that would mean two less cases to shoot... 


uggh, this means i have to find the emaxx forum, which goes dead for a week then comes back, in the offroad section...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I usually charge at 5.5 amps, the last run I re-charged at 4 amps. Don't think it helped...


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

other then that, clean out all the junk in the motors with motor spray, re- lube the bushings, and make sure the tranny and diffs have some grease on them. also, using lighter wheels/ tires will decrease rotating mass, meaning quicker spool up and less strain on the motor. lighting the chassis might help, too. if all else fails, add some teeth to the spur or take some away from the pinion. cant think of anything else....


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Tom,

Which brand and size of batt are you using?

Do you feel like discussing the single gear mod you did? If so my first ? is why?


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

I'm looking for chassis choices that meet these specs:

holds 8 cells inline (sidebyside) on each side total 16
holds batteries under the chassis (even with the braces)
is not metal (can be longer than stock)

So inotherwords I want a lower center of gravity and longer to hold my 8 cell packs .

Any ideas?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> JB- if your encredibly (sp?) desperate (sp?) i believe MIP sells front, rear, and center shiny CVDs for around 100 bucks. however, that would mean two less cases to shoot...
> 
> ...


I may go for that later (or christmas, perhaps?). my summer job became a year round job, so I'm happy about that.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Bill said:


> Tom,
> 
> Which brand and size of batt are you using?
> 
> Do you feel like discussing the single gear mod you did? If so my first ? is why?


First off, Smoe - I was using brand new motors the last 2 runs. 

Bill - I'm using ProMatch GP3300's with 420-423 runtime & 1.166-1.169 volts at 30 amps. They should be PLEANTY for 5 min in the MAXX! 

I did the single gear mod mostly to eliminate the slop in the trans between forward & brake and on power & off power. eliminating the other gears in the trans as rotating mass was just a bonus. Since I never used 1st gear anyway, I figured what the heck, do the Mod. I did it in a way that I can change it back at any time.


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

As Tom is aware, I did the same mod. mine was permanent however. THere are a lot of things you can do to an e-maxx. Not many of them are free and improve performance so much as locking the slop out of the tranny.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

guver said:


> I'm looking for chassis choices that meet these specs:
> 
> holds 8 cells inline (sidebyside) on each side total 16
> holds batteries under the chassis (even with the braces)
> ...



there are two chassis that fit part(s) of your description. both are built by www.bomb-proofproducts.com 
the racebomb chassis lowers the center of gravity, but arent mounted under it (they are held a little higher then the stock braces, so they are still very low), is made with lexan as the primary ingredent (sp?) instead of metal, and can hold more then eight batteries (but they have to be stacked atop each other). 
the torpedo does not lower the center of gravity, but holds more cells then you know what to do with. once again, its primarily made of lexan. 
if those two dont fit your fancy, then i guess you'll be runnin a modded stock chassis....


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

You run one of these chassis?
will the race bomb hold all 8 in a row?


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## Buff (Dec 9, 2002)

Just got an easy question guys......can the EVX Novak speedo and stock motors that comes with the E-Maxx, handle 7 cell packs? I was thinking of throwing a couple of those motors that Reedy makes specifically for the Maxx (called Reedy Maxx motors I think...I believe they're 19 turn motors) and adding 7 cell 3000's as well. Can the EVX handle all of this without blowing?


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

The evx is ok with 14 cells only with the stock titans (i think they are 23or 24 turn)

I think you would be ok with those 19 turn motors and 12 cells though.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

My brand new evx blew up finally my maxx is all stock


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

if those two dont fit your fancy, then i guess you'll be runnin a modded stock chassis....[/QUOTE]

Anyone running a lengthened stocker, I've really been eyeing it up that way, but the racebomb looks too good. Maybe for next year if I have the cash.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

guver said:


> I have only 8 runs on my stocker, and I think my evx is cutting out. At the beginning of the run it will stop and then start for about 2-3 minutes and then is ok the rest of the run. When I squeeze full trigger, the lite is green, but nothing happens (only steering) Is that my esc thermal??


I figured out my problem after very intermottent troubles it was the esc, A new one works perfectly. 

Also I put a new diff in the rear cuz the bearing were worn out allowing it to slip gears.

Thanks for the tips guys.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Bearings worn out? first time I've heard that one!


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Yea, go figure it only has about 20 runs on it and the front diff is stripping too. I read another post someone else was having same touble too.

Maybe it was the sand pile. I'm pretty happy though the E is back running although only 12 cells now I had to go back to 2400's cuz I wasted a cell on my 3000's


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Oh I just remembered . I found a good way to charge up all 16 cells together with my Triton charger at 5 amps. Works great if your batts are matched up fairly close.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

guver said:


> You run one of these chassis?
> will the race bomb hold all 8 in a row?


no, with the race bomb you will have to stack the eighth cell on top of the other seven. i wish i was running one of these chassis, but money problems are keeping me from it...




guver said:


> Anyone running a lengthened stocker


i mean a stock modified chassis that holds the cells on the bottom of the plasic plate, instead of on top, not a lengthened one. sorry for the confusion.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Oh darn I want all mine in a line.
Yea, I have my chassis set up that way now with the batts underneath. It helps alot.

Hey thanks for the info.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Concerning the first gear lock out mod for the truck, our E-maxx is still new, maybe 20 runs, so I'm not seeing the slop you are speaking of. How long before I can expect things to loosen up?

Tom, you have not mentioned your run time issue. Have you found out why it was running for such a short time? The batts your using have given our maxx at least 10 mins of run time.


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

The "slop" we are referring to is _designed_ in so that you can change gears on-the-fly. There are the two gears (low and high) in the tranny case. there is (what I call) a "floater" between the two that slides to either side to engage the selected gear. The floater has two small cams on each side that lock into slots on the gear that it is pressed against. These slots are about 70% of the gear circumference. The cams are about 20%. Basically that means the floater will "wind up" before it catches the gear. When you hit the throttle the maxx will hesitate before taking off. Then what happens is "gear slap". You are actually creating a greater force on the entire drivetrain by allowing this momentum to build up before catching the gear. This is why people are twisting sliders, spinning wheel hex's, stripping gears and diffs, etc...
Once you take it apart you'll see exactly what I mean.
As far as HOW to do the modification: Tom screwed the floater (I glued it) to the high gear and removed the low gear and all the shifting mechanicals. Both held up just fine under our conditions (low to medium traction racing). You will need to be a little creative with some spacers in place of the low gear. I also placed a few of those large soft body washers on the shaft to put a little pressure towards the high gear in case the glue were to break loose.
see attached pic.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

The slop we refer to isn't really all that noticeable in your normal driving, it is noticeable when you sit the truck down and roll it forward and see the motors turn, then roll it backwards until the motors turn again... that distance is the "Slop". It's designed that way for better shifting on the fly and such. The modification Kevin and I did eliminates 95% of that "Slop" fo more immediate response between braking and accelleration.

In answer to your question of run time, I haven't even looked at it. I'll probably cycle the batteries a couple times this weekend but I probably wont do anything with the truck for a few weeks, just not up to tearing it apart yet! The next race for it will be November 22, so I'm not in a huge hurry. I got the Pede to play with!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

lots of slop in the stock tranny. i would do the mod you guys described if i didnt like the wheelies so much :lol: 

i've dwindled my list of chargers down to two: the reedy quasar (not the pro, the $100 one) and the duratrax delux pulse. Im leaning toward the duratrax one because it has discharge and saves me $20 that i can spend on converting my stick packs to side-by-sides.

edit- is it just me, or have i had 403 posts for about five posts?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

One thing to think about on a discharge option is if it is a viable discharge rate, if it's only 10 amps or less, you'd be better off fabricating a light bulb discharger. I personally don't dee the point of discharging at less than 20 amps.

As for your post count, it updates after every post and updates on every post you made, I'll have 874 after this post and all 874 of them will say "874" at the bottom.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

.....Or until I post again..... 875! Doh!.......


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Great info guys on the gear mod, thanks. Kevin the attachment helped a lot. Now I understand what both of you are going for with the mod and now understand the why. Kevin likes to drive his maxx as a crawler and as a speeder so for the mean time i think I will leave it as is.

Tom I understand what you mean about waiting until you feel like working on the trucks. If I try and do something on these vehicles when I'm not in the mood I will mess it up for sure. Other than trying to charge your batts at 3 or 4 amps, which will encourage longer run times, the only other thing I can think of is that you got something binding someplace which is causing friction. Keep us informed when you find out what is happening.

Smojoe, I've been very impressed with Duratrax's Piranha Digital Peak charger ($50). The only problem I've found is that when pluged into the wall it will only charge at 4 amps max. You will need to use the battery clips on a 12 volt system to get a full 6 amp charge. The reason I suggested it is because I've been having trouble keeping all my batts charged with the power eating emaxx needing two batts per run. For the same amount of cash you could have two chargers working for you at the same time.

Thanks again guys.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Piranha digital should do only 3 amps on ac and 5 amps on dc.

I have the lineup of intellipeaks for sale by the way.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

does the piranha have an internal fan? thats the reason im replacing the 959, i sorta.... cooked it (literally. it started smoking) and i dont need two chargers, i can just go inside and watch simpsons while the batts are charging.

so how much you sellin the deluxe for, guver?

edit- alas, the post counter is working....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> lots of slop in the stock tranny. i would do the mod you guys described if i didnt like the wheelies so much :lol:
> 
> i've dwindled my list of chargers down to two: the reedy quasar (not the pro, the $100 one) and the duratrax delux pulse. Im leaning toward the duratrax one because it has discharge and saves me $20 that i can spend on converting my stick packs to side-by-sides.
> 
> edit- is it just me, or have i had 403 posts for about five posts?


the quasar looks great, but i think you have to buy a power supply for it.
Converting your stick packs to side by side packs? cool I did that with my packs and they run well
Having post count problems? me too... I went from 520+ to 509


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> does the piranha have an internal fan? thats the reason im replacing the 959, i sorta.... cooked it (literally. it started smoking) and i dont need two chargers, i can just go inside and watch simpsons while the batts are charging.
> 
> so how much you sellin the deluxe for, guver?
> 
> edit- alas, the post counter is working....


on my 959 one of the internal components fell off...
Oh and I agree with the simpsons thing. I find that king of the hill works well also :roll:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB-
I see you have yet to master the art of two quotes in one message. That’s very un-elder statesman-like of you…. lol

the quasar is AC/DC, but i wont have to worry about that because i set my mind on the intellipeak deluxe (unless Bill can convince me otherwise...)


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

I've been looking for my Operator Manual for the charger since I read your post and can't find it at the moment. Which bugs me to know end. I hope I have not miss spoke about the charging rates. Thanks guver for making the correction.

The Duratrax does not have a cooling fan, but the case is pre cut for one to be mounted.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol... That reminds me of another bulliten board I'm on. If you make too many gramatical errors everybody jumps all over you lol.
The intellipeak should do well. My friend has had the digital one for over 2 years and its still going strong


* *




i may not be able to do the double quotes. i haven't taken the time to figure that out-let me guess thought its


> --


? well, at least these spoilers are cool lol





edit-about 30 seconds after my last update...
Yea!! I figured out the double quote thing. I'm so proud of myself... j/k


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

The charger was recommended to me by Bob T, don't see him around much any more, anyway he works in a hobby shop and has a "thing" about chargers. His take on it was lots of features, low price, relibility, and durability. Its been everything he said it would be.

The 9 pre sets make it real easy to charge up different packs. I've run it for hours at a time and it has never false peaked or had any problems. I do run a small fan over it if I'm charging for a long time.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> does the piranha have an internal fan? thats the reason im replacing the 959, i sorta.... cooked it (literally. it started smoking) and i dont need two chargers, i can just go inside and watch simpsons while the batts are charging.
> 
> so how much you sellin the deluxe for, guver?
> 
> edit- alas, the post counter is working....


The deluxe is $49.00 it is like brand new
or I'll sell without powersupply for $29.00


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

guver said:


> The deluxe is $49.00 it is like brand new
> or I'll sell without powersupply for $29.00


i think i might be following Bill's advice and getting the Piranha Digital. seems to have the spec's im looking for, only less of the do-dahs i dont. you happen to be selling one of those too? PM me if you do, i dont want Hank on our case...


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Smojoe, I found my paperwork and guver is right 3 amps AC and 5 amps DC.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

allright, thats good enough for what i do. im sure i can charge at 4 if i put enough fans on it


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

postin' some news (and keeping this thread from the dreaded 2nd page)

Finally, a bulkhead worthy of the name supermaxx...
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/vbs.shtml
so how much you guys think this one is gonna cost? im thinking _at least_ $400- $450. but no matter the price, it sure is awsome...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Wow. At least they offer one without the shock tower built in. You may not be too far off, I would hope you're on the high side!


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Hope it cost less than that.
Bet it will cost more.

Wow is right.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

If only I had won the Lotto......


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## groundhogg (Sep 25, 2001)

So they built a transmission case based on 1/8th scale buggy cars.

Something about a fool and his money???


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

If you win the lotto I expect the "McKay Special" to hit the market. :thumbsup: 

If you were to design and market a RC what would it be?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Maybe a 4wd stadium truck. I always liked my old RS4MT, just was no class for it to race in. Market a 4wd conversion for a AE or Losi, or somthing as well engineered as those. It would take lots of marketing though.

I really like 4wd, in my E-Maxx & XXX4. 4wd stadium trucks are cool, too bad HPI didn't push it more.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Finally! I'm getting a new receiver tomorrow so I'll be able to run my emaxx again.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> Finally! I'm getting a new receiver tomorrow so I'll be able to run my emaxx again.


nice. good luck!

allright guys, im confused on what to buy next. I currently have around 120 -150 bucks (not really sure on the exact amount, but somewhere around there) that I want to spend on my maxx. what instantly came to my mind was some new (aluminum) bulkheads. Im not thinking SM stuff, but I am thinking something that will hold up for a good amount of bashing time. Im thinking two companies that I want to buy from, but Im not sure. they are American CNC Machining ( www.acncm.com ) and GA (www.greatassemblyrc.com ). Im liking ACNCM for the price ($50 all around) but am also liking GA because their 6061 and 7075 bulks are supposed to be bulletproof (not literally). can someone help with my decision?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

How much is the price difference? I would probably say get the cheaper stuff. Do you really think your gonna thrash your maxx that bad to need 7075 bulks?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ACNCM bulks are $50 front $ rear, GA 6061 are $95 front and rear, GA 7075 are $150 front and rear. 

i dont really need 7075s now, but once i got dual hackers in that puppy ( :lol:  ) im going to need all the stong stuff i can get.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Well, when you do get dual hackers, I want to see before and after pictures (the after pictures being a shot of your open transmission with not a single gear left intact. Oh, and a twisted cvd would be nice too). j/k
Do you have any pictures of your maxx? I'm sure we'd all like to see it.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I'll never throw that much cash at my maxx fo bulkheads. I did see some integy units at the LHS for $25.00 a pair thet looked nice though.


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

tommckay said:


> I did see some integy units at the LHS for $25.00 a pair


Where can I find them Tom


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i guess your right tom, but i do need something that will hold up to my abuse (i think i have broken each set of bulkheads at least three times. maybe four in the rear..). and 150 bones is alot to dish out on some bulkheads. i'll have to look into the integy bulks(a link would be nice). plus, by spending that much money, i can finally buy that MX-3 I've been wanting :tongue: 

p.s. JB, PM me your e-mail address; i sorta lost your old one


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## EvaderAndy (Feb 17, 2003)

Hey i've got a couple questions for you guys. I got an E-maxx the 12th of july and was wondering if any tires work better than the stock tires. I picked up a set of clod buster tires off k1m and well with the 2.5 arms on it it's only about 2 feet wide but it grips real well but there not legal at OvalmanPA's track and was wondering if you could tell what you have on for tires and how well they grip

thanks EvaderAndy

p.s if you guys want to see mine just let me know i have some pic's but if they will fit a don't know


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

lollie302 said:


> Where can I find them Tom


 C'mon Lollie... you know where I buy most of my stuff! Larry's of course! :roll:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Smoe, I'm not sure where to Integy products online, maybe fron Integy itself? I know my LHS is going to have Web based mail order available soon & they have done some mail order in the past, so you could visit www.larrysperformancercs.com or call 586-997-4840.

Evader Andy - Tires depend on what kind of track you run on. What tires do people use at OvalmanPA's track? get those! A BowTie is a good all around tire, also seen some have success with the Mashers & other's with the Mulchers.


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## EvaderAndy (Feb 17, 2003)

tommckay- most run the stocks but a couple run pins and bow ties


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Andy.......not illegal, just hard to pass.  Who has the track record right now and what tires is he running?  Think I am going to try some of the new Traxxas Sporttrax tires next year though.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

The maxx is an 11 pound + 4wd truck, Havn't actually seen a tire that didn't work decent on it. Unless of course you're trying to run Slicks out on the dirt! :tongue:


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## EvaderAndy (Feb 17, 2003)

OvalmanPA said:


> Andy.......not illegal, just hard to pass.  Who has the track record right now and what tires is he running?  Think I am going to try some of the new Traxxas Sporttrax tires next year though.


good point  nice job on my body by the way. I took off the clods cause they just didn't look right with a dodge body and old the maxx just looks plain dinky now! lol


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Andy........glad you are happy with it. I wasn't real happy with the "burgundy" color, I thought it would be a little darker. I forgot I was going to look and see if I could find those rams heads for you I have laying around. I'll put that on my list. :thumbsup:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

$25 for a pair of aluminum bulks? dang thats pretty good. Hmm.... Well, once I get some more cash I may go for that. 
On a positive note, I finally got my maxx running again. Tonight I set it up for my fm radio. This is a rare occasion; all of my rc models are actually running! (save the evader, which is in a box since I tried to sell it over the summer. Once I get the necessary electronic gear i'll probably get it running again.) All I need now is to get the problem with my new reedy motor resolved, and i'll be set (for roughly 5 minutes until something else goes wrong).


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I have decided to buy the ACNCM bulks, along with their aluminum wheel hexes (not bad for only around $60). after that, an MX-3 (was going to get it a while ago, but got my paintball marker instead.)


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Cycled My E-Maxx packs 1 time this last weekend, got 8 minutes out of a 22amp discharge (11 Bulbs). I'm not sure if that is good or not! I don't think it's good, 480 sec at 22amp on a 3300 pack? I think I'll ask DannySMC!


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Any word from Danny?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I finally ran my emaxx yesterday. Its pretty awkward shifting gears with a lynx 3d, but its not that bad. 
suppressing... urge to....hop-up.... with aluminum..... aw forget it.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> suppressing... urge to....hop-up.... with aluminum..... aw forget it.


many catch the bug. few have thousands of dollars to kill it....
I, on the other hand, am saving up my money untill i can (hopefully) convince my dad to let me buy a nitro car. i can get an airplane engine free from my uncle, but not a car engine that costs $40 that i can actually put to good use...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

sweet. what do you have in mind?
What is it that your dad doesn't like about nitro cars? Sound? Sure, nitro cars are loud, but so is a lawnmower. The mess? I don't see how people consider nitro that messy. After break in, I haven't had fuel leak out of the exhaust a single time. As long as the exhaust stinger clears the body, pretty much only the body gets dirty from exhaust residue, and that is easily wiped away (although the rear suspension gets a little also. Even then, the car isn't really any dirtier than an electric). Or does your dad not want you to spend the money? A nitro car isn't that much more than an electric. Sure, nitro fuel does go for $20 a gallon, but a gallon lasts a while.
Back to the maxx, has anybody tried the clip on motor heat sinks? my motors have been running really hot recently.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> sweet. what do you have in mind?


i dont know. something simple thats offroad. maybe another ST


JB_The_Evader said:


> What is it that your dad doesn't like about nitro cars?


to tell you the truth, i dont know. i believe he thinks im going to blow up the car or something. i was almost sure how safe i was with my airboat would convince(sp?) him that i could control something thats not spinning a prop inches away from my fingers at thousands of revolutions per minute  oh well....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

An AE GT, perhaps? or a sportmaxx?
lol thats pretty funny about the nitro blowing up. I think the worst you can do is A) burn yourself on the engine/pipe or B) get a nostril or eye full of exhaust (trust me it is not fun. Getting exhaust in your eye trying to tune the engine or check the fuel level stings terribly.)
Actually, I have seen a picture of a person that cut his finger when he tried to stop the engine by touching his finger to the flywheel. But thats just stupidity and I would hope nobody here would do that.
As for exploding, I think that the closest thing to that that would happen would be if the car got a way from, ran into something, revved up REALLY high, and then the con rod explodes/shatters, screwing up the inside of your engine. Still, it would probably all be contained by the engine block. 
or you could drop a match into the fuel tank if you're desperate.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&s...9x16437&session=3f88ee3e4035c911&L=eng&P=1002
this has got to be the coolest emaxx chassis I've seen. their site is www.xtremercracing.com.
check out the rest of the stuff on rc4wd.com. They've got some pretty cool stuff (epecially the "ultimate trucks") but they sure are expensive.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> An AE GT, perhaps? or a sportmaxx?.


if i can find someone selling a roller of those two for under $100, sure


JB_The_Evader said:


> lol thats pretty funny about the nitro blowing up. I think the worst you can do is A) burn yourself on the engine/pipe or B) get a nostril or eye full of exhaust (trust me it is not fun. Getting exhaust in your eye trying to tune the engine or check the fuel level stings terribly.)


i know. i was flipping the prop of my airboat and the carb shot some fuel out the air intake (why, i dont know) right into my face. stumbled backwards, trying to get it off my face, and almost fell into the lake. once i got it started though, things didnt seem to pick up (the engine stalled while traveling out.) got pretty mad, but the wind blew it back. My dad and I left when some people smoking cigarettes were fueling up their jet skis. didnt hear anything on the news about it that night, so i guess all is well... 


JB_The_Evader said:


> this has got to be the coolest emaxx chassis I've seen


looks like the gorillamaxx, only the gorilla is a l u m i n u m


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> http://www.rc4wd.com/shop/go.cgi?&s...9x16437&session=3f88ee3e4035c911&L=eng&P=1002
> this has got to be the coolest emaxx chassis I've seen. their site is www.xtremercracing.com.
> check out the rest of the stuff on rc4wd.com. They've got some pretty cool stuff (epecially the "ultimate trucks") but they sure are expensive.


This is the same chassis I run. The lower center of gravity really helps in the turns.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

How is the durability on that thing? and is it a direct swap?


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> How is the durability on that thing? and is it a direct swap?


I have not had any problems with it and I'm very hard on it. It is a direct swap. It does not have a place for the trans servo.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

When I was looking at pictures of it showed the shifts servo laid on its side on the upper deck. It looks like you'd be able to servo tape it down or something.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Pictures didn't lie!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

http://www.xtremercracing.com/E_Maxx_Parts_and_Accessories.cfm
check out the picture of the chassis. It shows a servo laid on its side on the upper deck. The shift assembly looks a bit crude though
Oh, and lollie, do you race or bash your emaxx? If I were to get one it would primarily be used for bashing. Do you think it would hold up?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I believe I saw a picture of that chassis that had the rear part broken off. Don’t know if the guy was running brushless or what, but it HAD to be powerful to it.

I still am undecided on what nitro car to get. but the HPI super nitro rally seems to fit what i want to do (mild offroad and pavement).


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> lollie, do you race or bash your emaxx? If I were to get one it would primarily be used for bashing. Do you think it would hold up?


I race only. If you are bashing you mite want more ground clearance than this chassis offers.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Lollie had a nitro rally at one time.....

I agree, the Extreme chassis Lollie has would be a race only chassis. I though I saw one on there that was recommended for bashers??


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Lollie had a nitro rally at one time.....
> 
> I agree, the Extreme chassis Lollie has would be a race only chassis. I though I saw one on there that was recommended for bashers??


I still have a super nitro rally. I have converted it to a MT.

Yes they do http://www.xtremercracing.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=112407&InfoID=2995&ShowLarge=True


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Still huh? I thought you sold it way back when....


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Still huh? I thought you sold it way back when....


I had another one without a motor so I recently purchased an OS for it.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

allright guys, i have changed my mind (notice i do that alot?)
the new found power in my side by side packs has made me want to stick with the maxx a while longer. heck, when you can flip your truck from wheeling to much while in second gear in loose gravel, you notice ya got some power. here is what im thinking:
-bombproof torpedo (talked about getting one alot, just might now)
-ACNCM bulkheads
-proline extended body (cadillac escalade ext or F-350. not much of a choice)
-airtronics MX-3
that about all i can get right now (might even have to find a used MX-3) so whatcha think?

p.s. guver, got the charger. very nice. looks almost brand new. :thumbsup: and thanks whoever told me to get it (Bill or tommckay. forgot which one  )


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Another mind change? lol....
Yeah, side by side packs are fun.
Speaking of fun, I was able to get my emaxx to slide the rear end out on concrete. I ran it through some slightly wet grass to get the tires slippery. I've never seen something with as much traction as an emaxx slide on such a high traction surface.
Oh, and as for your upgrade plan, it sounds pretty good. Mine pales on comparison; I want to get a set of motor heatsinks.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hop ups are a personal preference to the person that has the truck, My hop ups are more race performance oriented, others would be durability, others would be Eye candy, and yet others would be a mixture of all. 

I would love to plop money down on some fancy UE diff gears and cases & work on bullet proofing the drivetrain, but all that costs $$ I don't have.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

my hop-ups have reasons too, you know..
torpedo- big, sturdy, and holds lots of cells
ACNCM bulks- beefey. 'nuff said
Extended body- would look pretty funny with stock length body on
MX-3- stock radio glitches every once and a while. dont want to loose control of a truck worth as much as the maxx


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Nobody was putting down your hop up plan. he was just saying how everybody values different things. I don't need aluminum bulks because I don't bash my emaxx as hard as you might; I haven't had to replace a single thing on my emaxx because it was broken beyond use (and yes, I know that means I'm not doing something right lol). I want some heatsinks because I want my electronics to last a long time.
Of course, I enjoy eye cand also. If anything, I'd trick out my losi xxxs since aluminum parts aren't too expensive for it (compared to an emaxx at least.) plus the losi's stock steering system has a lot of slop in it, so I can use that as an excuse for aluminum bellcranks/steering link and bearings.
I'm definitely with you on not losing control of an expensive rc model. I would consider an fm radio to be one of the best upgrades you can make. Especially if you eventually get into nitro. I would have a heart attack if my 7 pound buggy was heading for a curb at 40 mph.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Nuttin directed at you Smoe, your hop ups sound good for you. For me & my racing, I need lighter weight (aluminum weighs more than plastic) with strong gears to handle the stresses of racing hard. The main reasons I replace bulkheads is because of stripped screw holes not breakage. 

Oh, and the first thing I did to mine was hook up my Futaba 3PDF to it, so we all agree that a good radio is a must!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I know you guys werent puttin down my plans, i was just making conversation (and telling you why i was going to get those parts)


JB_The_Evader said:


> Especially if you eventually get into nitro


pimping out the maxx before that happens. getting a barebones CPU for x-max, so i guess im going to have to come up with they money for some new diffs on my own...

tom, you said that you got rid of first gear. does this mean that you have turned the tranny around and flipped the diffs so you can have really short motor wires? was thinking about that while mowing the lawn today...

p.s. twisted the slider going from the tranny to the rear diff. guess Im getting the UE style bone for the torpedo now...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

how did you twist the slider?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Smoe - ???? Wow. hadn't even occurred to me to do that..... Turn the tranny around and flip the diffs.. Interesting. I think it would be easier to just swap the ESC and reciever though...

JB, twisting the center slider is easy, I did it a few times before I put the CVD in there.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> JB, twisting the center slider is easy, I did it a few times before I put the CVD in there.


yep it is. i noticed a slight twist in the rear while waiting for my charger, swapped it with the front which looked almost brand new. took me two runs to twist the rear (which was in the front) to a point of no return. 
i now know the awsome power of side by side 3000mAH cells....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol... I've twisted a few driveshafts with my terra crusher tires, but never a center. I once had a driveshaft pop clean out of my truck with a 90* bend on it, and I normally have to cut these out with a dremel to replace them (sure, I could do it another way, but I'm lazy, and powertools are fun.)


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Power tools....aaarrr, aaaaarrrr, aarrr!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol tommckay


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

geeze, this setup is gonna cost me more then i though...
chassis and chassis accesories alone are going to run me about $160. looks like Im going to be making money during my free time...  
and the fact that MIP wants $9 for a single traxxas diff outdrive does not help


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol. Yup, I'd say you're in for some work. Its all worth it though when you see your custom machine screaming toward the ramp, lift off majestically, flie as straight as an arrow, prepare for landing... oops, you hit the brakes too early. Your emaxx is now dropping like a brick upside down. Ouch! your body is dented and the posts have ripped holes in it, the shock towers have bent, and the weight of the batteries have pulled the battery straps off the chassis... Enjoy!!
j/k


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> your body is dented and the posts have ripped holes in it


 Proline bodies dont dent, then crack


JB_The_Evader said:


> the shock towers have bent


if i break em, RPM pays for the new ones


JB_The_Evader said:


> and the weight of the batteries have pulled the battery straps off the chassis


thats the only thing that just might happen

Any more fun scenarios I can play around with? lol


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

ummm.... ok... my rcxplosion dvd came today so i have lots of scenarios for you.. people do really stupid things in that movie.
1. You jump your emaxx off of a bridge. It lands upside down after a 150 ft drop. I'll let you decide the damage.
2. a pitbull attacks your car and damages the body.
3. you land a jump and pull the right rear suspension arm out of the bulkhead, as well as both front arms.
4. A real pickup truck runs over your maxx. and then backs up. and then goes forward at a higher speed. and then does the same in reverse. Explain that one!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> ummm.... ok... my rcxplosion dvd came today so i have lots of scenarios for you.. people do really stupid things in that movie.
> 1. You jump your emaxx off of a bridge. It lands upside down after a 150 ft drop. I'll let you decide the damage.
> 2. a pitbull attacks your car and damages the body.
> 3. you land a jump and pull the right rear suspension arm out of the bulkhead, as well as both front arms.
> 4. A real pickup truck runs over your maxx. and then backs up. and then goes forward at a higher speed. and then does the same in reverse. Explain that one!


1. there are no 150 foot bridges around where i live. the biggest one is like 20 feet.
2. i have a black lab. and i have yet to see a pitbull in real life (sad? yes, i know)
3. by the time i do a jump large enough to do that kind of damage, my truck is going to be nothing but SM
4. i dont run my maxx near 'real' cars. and if i did, i could just gun it when he got close. good luck running over a 1/10 scale truck going 30MPH
so hows the DVD? lol

p.s. just might be ordering the torpedo this weekend.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

cool... as for the dvd, its pretty sweet, they have a part where a guys hunting down a buggy with a PMI Paranha... Lots of bad crashes, high jumps, and some pretty fine looking models. In one segment they have the two models race 1/8 scale buggies... its pretty funny.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Got a look at the Maxx yesterday, took the pinions off to see if there was any binding in the drivetrain and it seemed really free. I could easily spin the entire drive train and get about 2.5 to 3 seconds of "free spin" when giving the wheels a spin. When I took out the front half shaft I could spin the front 1/2 for about 5-6 seconds and the rear (still attached to the tranny) for about 4 seconds. Diff action is real smooth and unexpectedly quiet! I think it may have been driver error (Hammering too hard) along with track conditions, layout, & a touch too loose slipper. The track was on a hill with 2 uphill climbs and made with real dirt (loose) so I was on the throttle hard thru most of it.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i once again, need your guys help. this time, its on heat sinks. the two choices are the Associated long TC3 heat sink ($12) 
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG84&P=7
and the Tamiya heat sink ($10)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTC78&P=7
im leaning toward the tamiya one because of the cheaper price (its not much), but the accociated looks like it would have a larger surface area for cooling. (and im NOT going to buy you a set too, JB :devil: )


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I'd go with the AE unit. It has more fins.


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## EvaderAndy (Feb 17, 2003)

smojoe said:


> i once again, need your guys help. this time, its on heat sinks. the two choices are the Associated long TC3 heat sink ($12)
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG84&P=7
> and the Tamiya heat sink ($10)
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTC78&P=7
> im leaning toward the tamiya one because of the cheaper price (its not much), but the accociated looks like it would have a larger surface area for cooling. (and im NOT going to buy you a set too, JB :devil: )


I use the Associated heat sink and it keeps them nice and cool to a sertant extent.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

AE unit it is! and my next tower order comes too..... 43 bucks plus shipping. geeze, never knew two heatsinks and two MIP traxxas outdrives would cost so much....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> (and im NOT going to buy you a set too, JB :devil: )


Oh darn.... How bout just one? I just got my 8t motor in my losi, so I'm gonna need at least one. I installed a small 12vt fan, but It doesn't help much. Please?! Pretty please!!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I want one!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

8 turn? Geeze, spend some money on your maxx for once, JB. Better yet, put a Titan in the Losi, gear down, and see if you can smoke the tires. Ahh, the power of boredom...
I wish I could buy you one tom, but at this rate its going to be more then a month untill i have the $$ to the ACNCM bulks. Not to even mention all the other stuff I "need."


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

"need".... man, that's a little word that can cause a large bill.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> 8 turn? Geeze, spend some money on your maxx for once, JB. Better yet, put a Titan in the Losi, gear down, and see if you can smoke the tires. ."


Smoke the tires? that would be pretty cool (I love burnouts :thumbsup: )
I don't think I'll get smoke the tires, but It does doughnuts really well!
To keep this maxx related, I took my maxx to socal last weekend. My maxx definitely isn't meant as a racer. It was all over the track, plus I popped off two shock caps.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yes tom, that word can cause a lot of trouble.

I know this is sad, but in the 10 months (has it really been that long?) that i have had my maxx, i have not popped a shock cap. no, not once.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well I put the Dynamite shocks on mine (Losi knock offs) so I don't pop shock caps. Now the shocks on my son's truck........ We've popped a few on that one! but only from abuse!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

if i do upgrade my shocks, there going to be the integy reservoir(sp?) shocks or the AE BFT aftermarket reservoir(sp?) shocks (if they work well). however, at the rate of punishment that my shocks are currently going through, thats going to be a while.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Now how the heck can you break multiple bulkheads but you haven't popped a single shock? that doesn't make sense?!
Also, would you be able to describe your bulkhead breaking crashes? This should be interesting.
oh, and what I forgot to mention in my last post, concerning a titan in a tc, I've already been thinking about what a hacker c50 w/12 cells would do. Good luck fitting all that in there!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

My son broke both front bulkheads and the skidplate once when he lawn darted it banzaiing a big jump, didn't pop a shock cap though.


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

I need to knbow what you guys put in the diffs for lube 
I am going to be running it indoors ona carpet track and have lots of traction 
LMK what you guys think and also where to get the diff lube 
Will stock losi or AE diff lube work 

I did a search on here and couldn't find anything about it 
Thanks for the help guys


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

I personally went to Wallyworld and got the cheapest high pressure bearing packing grease I could find. I think it was called Super Tech and it's red. I didn't really pack it in there but I coated things up nicely.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> Now how the heck can you break multiple bulkheads but you haven't popped a single shock? that doesn't make sense?!


ever land a jump on the front bumper, only to remember you forgot to put the front bumper and holders on a few minutes earlier? that how you break the front. i was breaking rears like mad before i made my wheelie bar with shocks on it. all the wheelies would just rip out the rear 1/3 of the bulkhead off. 

Promatchracer- i run on loose gravel, so i dont think my current diff setup will help you.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hey Casey!

I run mine on dirt too, but I don't think I would change it for carpet. I use a minimalist approach since I saw all the thick stock grease/oil leaking out and gumming up the outdrive bearings. I use stock Losi diff lube now, but I prefer Ronnie Grease... I wish I could find some of that stuff again, I love that stuff! I am really low on it now, I use it on all my thrust bearings, the stuff is awesome!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yeah!! my dad got a digital camera, so I'll finally have some pics of my maxx. I'll be working on seting up a photo album.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Im running a silicon(?) grease packed front and rear. only in the rear Im running a pen-spring to give the diff that "torsen diff without spending $80 on one" feel. works well in gravel, I might add. 
Ronnie Grease.... I'll keep my eye open for it, Tom

p.s. congrads, tom, on your thousand (and then some) posts


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

well, maybe not. The max file size you are allowed for a single pic is 51k, and my smallest is 150k (and most of them are 1.5mb).


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

*i gots a question...*

hmm the drivetrain is making an awful loud noise. i wonder what the prev. owner did.. imma take it apart soon. gotta see how this baby is built!! how do you like it?

what do i need to do to my emaxx to make it look/handle like this baby.

here is my stock emaxx that i bought (with some upgrades)









here is what i want to attain...









i want the lowered stance, the longer arms.. basically the off-road look. not the backyard basher look. any and all help is appreciated. i am sure maybe its listed in this forum somewhere.. but.. when you work a 12 hour day.. you just dont feel like reading =)

(you can email me too if you want.. [email protected])


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

lets see what that guys got....
looks like hardcore skids
RPM blue stablemaxx "monster clawz" wheels
maybe traxxas sportmaxx tires or proline mulchers (to dirty to tell, but looks like SM)
progressive suspension shocks (VERY costly, i might add)
Proline crowd pleazer body
rear CVDs but 2.5 sliders up front

thats about all i can tell from the pic (plus its late and i just finished my biology homework, so you know....)


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

I use very little AE black grease


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

smojoe said:


> lets see what that guys got....
> looks like hardcore skids thats about all i can tell from the pic (plus its late and i just finished my biology homework, so you know....)


the emaxx i got has hardcore skids and braces, and a server cover. i want to go for that lower look. i got mine with the big-joe stuff but i have the stock tires available too..

here is a butt shot.. of that other emaxx im so fond of:










it looks like his/hers runs a bit wider, and a bit lower... ya? maybbe its just me...

here is a picture of the underside of my newly acquired emaxx.









i dun care about the progressive stuff.. the body i can get.. the different rims/tires i can get.. but them arms sure look awfully side and his stance looks awfully low =)


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

the reason its wider is because of the RPM stablemaxx rims. i believe they make the maxx 1" wider (not sure).
the reasons the whole truck may be lower is because the person has the shock ends on the arms as far out as they can go (toward the wheels) or they are running internal limiters in the shocks.

*edit* also, the big joes are... well... big. they also make the truck taller


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

buh duh.. i see now.. i got big joe tires.. no wonder.. HAHAHAHAHA
now it looks better.. see with a lil "push" i now look better.. 









look at them rusted screws.. geez. i think imma tear this whole truck apart and put it back together...

wow.. never knew Big Joe's were THAT much bigger.. holy cow









grrrrrrrrrr.. i just looked.. all the screws on the bottom of the chassis are stripped. this is going to be a bizzzzzz to fix. grr.. all the skid plate screws are suppsed to be + but now they look like o's. errr.. i got them out. some needed a lil notch from a dremel..but I got them all out.. that was about 10 mins of fun.

check out this screw!!









heh anyhoo.. i guess im just uber excited on this new toy. im sure 3/4 of you are like "old news old news!"

now.. need new screws.. and figure out how to lower the stance.

WOOO!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

good luck getting them out! Im very carefull with my screws, so i cant give you any advice for getting them out. im sure Tom has some tips.

JB- I'll send you some pics as soon as i get the torpedo and stuff together(expecting it in about a week). better yet, i can just post a picture in the photo album. just need to find one small enough :lol:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

cool. I'm looking forward to seeing your emaxx. I don't have any photos small enough to post in the photo album. If you would want (which I doubt, considering my maxx is nearly bone stock besides some skids, a body, and a proline suspension) I could send you some pics of it. It's not much to look at, though.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

trying to get the photos to work...


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

JB_The_Evader said:


> trying to get the photos to work...


 :thumbsup:

i should be asleep because i wake early for work, but my wife is tinkering on the other computer.. and im stripping my exmaxx at 10pm haha. found more small nuiscantic(is that even a word) problems that im going to fix....

yeah.. i know the emaxx i have has the wider arms. im going to play with the shock locations, and maybe try some diff springs i have laying around somewhere.

im just going to think... "this is an uber huge T3" and work that way. LOL

ill post pics later this week, but I am going to repaint all the aluminum parts with some ceramic paint to give it all a silver aluminum look. this mishmash of colors are bothering me.

darn.. im hooked on the max.. and i still have to tune up my t3/tc3/b3 for racing again. really getting back into RC's again.. full swing.

thank my wife for motivating me back into rc again... =)

*yawn* ok time for bed.

RCMUtts out.
(resident HT nut) :wave:


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

oh the last look.. ok im hooked.. HAHAHAAH
gimme a couple of weeks.. ill have my emaxx modded 










definately proline parts.. wooo!

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/maxxsuspension.html found it.. must be that. retial 80$ so I am sure its about 50ish from the hobbyshops (being optimistic)
did i read right? it gives it an extra 1" width/??

again.. sorry if this is old new for others... its new and exciting for me  like a kid in a candy store.


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

damn.. i gotta stop my late night incoherent postings! AHHAHAHA
eesh mits... increase the medication... or sniff more wintergreen
tire solvent! LoL.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

RCMits said:


> must be that. retial 80$ so I am sure its about 50ish from the hobbyshops (being optimistic)
> did i read right? it gives it an extra 1" width/??


I believe that you are running the 2.5 suspension, so no, the proline kit will not increase stance. (and if not, i can send you some "slightly" used ones for much less then that proline kit)


RCMits said:


> wow.. never knew Big Joe's were THAT much bigger.. holy cow


 shoot and miss. cut me some slack. they are called BIG joes, you know :lol:

p.s. who is hosting your pictures?


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

smojoe said:


> I believe that you are running the 2.5 suspension
> they are called BIG joes, you know :lol:
> p.s. who is hosting your pictures?


HAHAHAHA yeah i got the 2.5 suzpenshun. so its all good. i think im just going to get a new body.. and rebuild her.. get some new motors.. etc. Thats what I get for posting and reading so late at night. I neglect to read.. hahah. 

(now i been reading the MICRO forum too.. time to pull out my micro RS4) haha I have RC Attention Def Disorder:hat: 

Who is hosting my pics? and old provider.. just an internet provider where I have like 5 megs to put anything up. :wave:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Your stance can be taken care of with mounting position, but that also changes handling characteristics. I just use the spacers to adjust ride height, the less spacers the lower it will sit.

The Maxx you posted pics of has the narrow suspension with the Stablemaxx rims to make it wide, you won't need them or the Pro-Line kit if you have the 2.5 suspension. The CVD's are a good addition, jut make sure the get the longer ones for the 2.5! The Ti skids are ok for eye candy, but not needed if you know how to drive half way decent. Besides they weigh more than plastic. & saving weight matters in racing!


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

tommckay said:


> The Maxx you posted pics of has the narrow suspension with the Stablemaxx rims to make it wide, you won't need them or the Pro-Line kit if you have the 2.5 suspension. The CVD's are a good addition, jut make sure the get the longer ones for the 2.5! The Ti skids are ok for eye candy, but not needed if you know how to drive half way decent. Besides they weigh more than plastic. & saving weight matters in racing!


The Ti SKids came with the package, because I bought it used... so I am not complaining. 
Used.. cant complain.. just gotta work on it ya know?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> The Maxx you posted pics of has the narrow suspension with the Stablemaxx rims to make it wide, you won't need them or the Pro-Line kit if you have the 2.5 suspension.


I have never seen the old style suspension, so i dont know what it looks like. the truck was wide and the arms werent beefy like the 2.5s are, so I just assumed it was the PL kit. good eye tom!

speaking of CVDs, i was wondering what type of lube you guys use on yours. mine have been squeaking badly (even after multiple rebuilds and relubes).


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> I have never seen the old style suspension, so i dont know what it looks like. the truck was wide and the arms werent beefy like the 2.5s are, so I just assumed it was the PL kit. good eye tom!
> 
> speaking of CVDs, i was wondering what type of lube you guys use on yours. mine have been squeaking badly (even after multiple rebuilds and relubes).


The old arms are pretty short and make for a pretty narrow emaxx. Lots of rolling, plus they aren't too beefy. The pro-lines, on the other hand...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yeah!! It worked lol.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Nice looking car and truck! did you paint the losi? if so, i gotta send you the escalade EXT to paint


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Yes, I painted both of the bodies. I'll get pics up of my other paintjobs if you want, including my normal length escalade.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

geeze, your good. way better then me. well, then again, i have painted only two bodies, and only one had more then one color 
*edit* downloaded the picture thing your using. should have some pics of the current maxx up by tomorrow


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

here we go...












This is my maxx escalade.










Here are the rest of my bodies (except for my first custom evader body; turned out terrible, and my most recent body, which is just to the right of this pic, you can see one of the front headlight stickers of it just to the right of the escalade; I forgot about it lol).
If anybody minds the above pic since it has more than maxx related stuff, just tell me.
oh, and please dont mind the glare (like on the losi hood and the maxx windshield); my garage isn't the ideal photostudio.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

smojoe said:


> oh, and forget the nitro stuff, just get hopups for the emaxx and it will seem the same, but less mess.


some things never change....

(I decided to read the first page of this forum. noticed how little i knew about the maxx when I didnt even own it.  )


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

showoff lol

bad thing about having multiple computers. all my pics are on the other one.....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I've also read some of the old pages... pretty good stuff. I like your old idea of a brushless rc dumptrack. It was a joke, of course, but it would be funny.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> showoff lol
> 
> bad thing about having multiple computers. all my pics are on the other one.....


We haven't had a computer decent enough for using a digital camera until recently, and we just got the camera a few days ago, so I know your pain when it comes to technological setbacks.
Showoff? This is my only artistic medium (if you consider it one). I'm probably one of the most boring and uncreative people in this forum.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

JB_The_Evader said:


> We haven't had a computer decent enough for using a digital camera until recently, and we just got the camera a few days ago, so I know your pain when it comes to technological setbacks.
> Showoff? This is my only artistic medium (if you consider it one). I'm probably one of the most boring and uncreative people in this forum.


 No your not, you haven't seen the paint jobs I've done...... :lol:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

hopefully should work. heck, now its small enough (34.2KB) to post on the hobbytalk host


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

pretty sweet. I like the hummer body, and I desperately need a wheelie bar like that.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

send check or money order to.... :lol: 

I have to rebuild it because I landed the entire truck on the bar (notice im not very good a jumping) and bent ALL the aluminum on it (even the uprights have a slight bend). thank goodness the torpedo isnt supposed to come untill the 29th, or I would never get around to making a new one...

p.s. all that happened after the pic was taken. that pic is actually about a month old.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I'm not all that great jumping my maxx either (at least off of bigger jumps). Its just too touchy in the air.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

great, tower told me to buy the wrong CVD outdrive. and sending it back and getting a new one is going to take two weeks, which means I cant run my torp untill I get it. yippe


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

bummer.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yup, the pitfalls of mail order!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

i went to all my LHSs (found out i have three in a one hour drive radius) and they all didnt have it. tower was the next best thing...

been doing a total overhaul of my truck over the last few days. rebuilt the diffs & tranny and cleaned out the motors really well. now i just need to get the torp...


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

It must be tough waiting. What's really tough is going on a vacation clear across the contry and leaving a half built kit on your bench.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, I found a (temporary) fix for the rear center shaft. just had to modify an old rear slider. should hold up untill I get the right outdrives.
rebuilt the CVDs, filled the shocks with some 35wt oil, and cleaned off all the suspension parts today. geeze, Im earning this chassis....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Oops double post.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol. So when is it supposed to come?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> lol. So when is it supposed to come?


Today :thumbsup: 
everything so far is going together good. however, the battery placement is driving me nuts. the batts are foam taped down with cups and they are a little small for side by side batteries, so I am trying to find another (cheap) way of holding down the batteries.
any thoughts are welcome


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I don't entirely get what you are saying without a picture for reference, but would you be able to dremel anything? 
Just make sure you get some pics of it up when possible.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/94126/2.jpg
if i was to run the cups (black things at ends of battery) i would have to unscrew eight screws (two on each cup, two cups per battery) every time i took the packs out. i just dont want to do that sort of work! lol no dremeling, but i was thinking about some gorillamaxx battery straps. might work...

p.s. to the right is my new rear-center shaft. beefy, eh?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I can see how that would be inconvenient, and yes, that is a beefy shaft!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

here it is as a 'whole' I know, the front wiring looks a little messy. Im working on cleaning it up (only had the chassis for a day, you know :lol: )


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

wow... That's pretty sweet looking.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/94126/4.jpg
the parts circled in red is what (I think) is needed to complete the steering. the included instructions talked about a 'rubber spacer' to space out the area between the chassis and the bellcranks. I'll email the guy tomarrow and see whats up with my not getting the 'rubber spacer.' And if all else fails, it can be added to my "things to make" list.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

It can be pretty irritating when a little thing like that holds you up.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Those are basically old AE style battery holders, there should be small holes drilled thru the cap head screw for a small diameter body clip, eliminates the need for unscrewing it. If the hole isnt there, the screws exist, just have to get them!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Those are basically old AE style battery holders, there should be small holes drilled thru the cap head screw for a small diameter body clip, eliminates the need for unscrewing it. If the hole isnt there, the screws exist, just have to get them!


thats exactly what the cups are like, only the battery is wide enough so that i cant flex the cup to snap the top brace into place on the screw. 
also, even if i can get it to work, the front hits the gear cover and doesnt fit on the chassis all the way. its kind of hard to explain without showing you, so I'll see what I can do by myself.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/94126/5.jpg
well, it took some time, but i flipped the diffs and tranny. in the pic, the red line is what I want to linkage to look like (sort of, at least. Im really bad at photo 'editing'). does that look good? Im trying to keep it as low and as close to the tranny as possible, if your wondering why it looks funny.

p.s. Im planning on keeping the springs and retainers, but i was to lazy to 'draw' them


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

That looks like it should work


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> That looks like it should work


I hope so :thumbsup: 

Think I have figured out how to mount the batteries; Industrial strength velcro. I'll post some pics tomorrow of what I did with it.


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Nice job smojoe. Looking good. :thumbsup:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Smojoe, the velcro shoud do it, but it may interfere with the placement of the battery in a different model (that is, if you still use your evader). Also, the rounded shape of the cells may make it a little more difficult, but I'm sure it can be done.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> Smojoe, the velcro shoud do it, but it may interfere with the placement of the battery in a different model (that is, if you still use your evader). Also, the rounded shape of the cells may make it a little more difficult, but I'm sure it can be done.


I think I have ran my evader about 10 times since I got the emaxx, so im not really worried about that. and when i do run the EVST, I usually run my cheap-o tower stick packs. 

Give me a few for days, Bill, and it will be looking even better...


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Anyone got a trick for working the front inside shock top screw? Why is it that the really tight screws are always in the really tight places?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

The only thing i can think of is a really small screwdriver.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

its time consuming, but taking off the entire front bulhead is, by far, the easiest way to take off those stubborn screws. use a large headed screwdriver to minimize the chance of them stripping out. other then that, just take your time.

torp update....
I have the steering working (used some heavy-duty rubber tubing and small washers) but when shifting the servo from side to side, there seems to be alot of chassis flex in the servo area. once i get some more free time, I'll be making a H shaped brace to stiffen the servo area. also, I got the enough velco to mount the batteries, just have to find a good adheasive that is strong enough to hold it, but can still peel it off if I need to re-do anything. questions or comments are welcome.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Bill, I use a 1/4" socket and small rachet with a #2 phillips bit and back it out a 1/3 turn at a time.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Had my first run with the Torpedo today. all I can say is "yippe!" gunning it off the line is first gear on pavement only gives you a little (maybe 3"-4") wheelie, and once you shift into second, its amazing how stable it is a high speeds. Had a little scare when the set screws on the pinions came out (no loc-tite, but there is now), but other then that, all is awsome. and the heatsinks work wonders. for once, I think the motors were about at cool as the ESC. 

whats next, you ask? SM center shaft. thinking about buying the whole center kit for stock e-maxx, then selling the SM rear center shaft and MIP outdrives that i dont need. if I do this, are there any people who would want it?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

That would depend on price.... I now have 3 E-maxxes in my house. I might be interested!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> That would depend on price.... I now have 3 E-maxxes in my house. I might be interested!


I dont know. might be a week or so befor i even get the shafts (will be ordering them tonight), so we have some time to figure out the price :lol:


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

smojoe said:


> I got the enough velco to mount the batteries, just have to find a good adheasive that is strong enough to hold it, but can still peel it off if I need to re-do anything. questions or comments are welcome.


*Shoo Goo* 

Also, have you guys seen the new ad for Novak's Maxx brushless setup?
"Bash more wrench less"
About the only thing I've never had to wrench on are the Titans/EVX...must be they mean AFTER you've upgraded the entire drivetrain!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

k1m said:


> *Shoo Goo*


I ended up using silicon sealer, which worked out fine. I can pick the truck up by a batter pack and shake it around without the velco coming apart, so I think its on there pretty good.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

so when are you getting a brushless set up?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> so when are you getting a brushless set up?


at this rate? maybe next x-mas. but in reality.... gimme two years... lol


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Well, at least your maxx will be ready for it.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Got a chance to do a late night jump session with my maxx last night. The batteries had been sitting for a while, so the performance wasn't too great. I wish I had a backyard with some rougher stuff other than grass. That would really let the maxx be in its element.
Hey Smojoe, check out the Chit Chat area.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I still need diffs and a new tranny untill it can handle BL. lots of cash to needed...

still need some things before I take the maxx out to the "normal" bashing spot. Deans and a new rear bulkhead brace. but noo, my parents rather go to bookstores and buy nothing then help me get my $400+ truck running better...  :lol: 

chit chat? what the...?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Down at the bottom of the rc forum listing is the new Chit Chat (off topic) section of the forums.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I found it :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Me and the boys raced our Maxxes last Saturday, what a blast!


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

How'd it go?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not too bad, When you race Maxxes it don't matter where you qualify, as long as you're in the A you have a shot to win. I qualified 7th and my oldest 10th in the A, my youngest was 2nd in the B. The youngest won by a lap. I had the lead for a while in the A but then made some fatal mistakes and dropped back, My son came thru and finished 2nd, I lost 3rd on the last lap by tangleing with 4th and ended up 4th.

10 Big trucks on a track with 8ft lanes, it don't take too much to go from 1st to last! Nobody want's to step out in front of a speeding E-maxx to marshall a stuck one! 11 laps in 5min. is fast on the track we run on. Visit the Washtenaw Raceway thread for pics of the track!


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

Hey Tom,
Did Eric figure out what was wrong with the Maxx he bought from Scott? I heard the esc wasn't working. ( I suspected the receiver) What was it?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Nope. Gonna have to send it in. I did every check I could think of, but no output to the motors. Stuck my back-up EVX in it and and away it went! 

I'm suprised he didn't break the thing, he's gotta learn not to hit the brakes in the air! :lol: He learned by the end of the day and is starting to catch on now. But it took alot of dirt pounding with the front bumper to get there!


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

I'm glad he's having fun with it. I felt bad when I heard about the speedo. That's just how these things go (the EVX). It was working fine at Jones, we took out the Rx and servo and stuck it in the box for Eric (still with dirt on it, of course!). Homer's died on him like that at least twice.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yep, that it does.

Who set up that truck anyway? We re-did the shocks on it so it would be like our other trucks and the spring clips were all different on all the shocks, it was wierd. And yes, thanks for the extra Jones dirt... I had to clean my table again after working on that thing!  :lol:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Sounds like you had a blast, Tom

not to brag or anything, but..... :lol: 
got the SM center shafts in today. working good so far :thumbsup: just need to go to the LHS tomorrow and pick up the RPM bulkhead braces and I'll be set 'till x-mas. Should have some pics of the "completed" truck by thursday or friday. 

Have one SM titanium center shaft and two MIP outdrives up for sale. Think Toms got dibs, though..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Sounds good, smojoe. We need some pics of this thing in action!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yup, send me a PM with what you want for it. Be nice now!! :lol:


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## KevinDog (Sep 24, 2001)

You changed *MY* setup?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, its friday, and i told you guys i would have a current pic up. LHS didnt have my RPM bulkhead braces in (  ), but the truck still looks good! 









p.s. you may notice on the motor leads, half of the deans connector on the ESC side is black. i did that so when i rebuild the motors, i know which leads got to the motors and which leads go to the batteries.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

looks pretty good. How well do the motor heatsinks work?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

from the two runs that i have done since i got them, they have worked very well. while lugging around a 11+ lbs. truck, things get hot, but they seem to keep the motors much cooler then before. have you done the washer mod for the motors? that keeps em' cooler, too.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I haven't done that yet, but I will once I'm able to get around to it.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

smojoe said:


> p.s. you may notice on the motor leads, half of the deans connector on the ESC side is black. i did that so when i rebuild the motors, i know which leads got to the motors and which leads go to the batteries.


The motors aren't rebuildable..... And why not just use the female connector on the ESC side for the motors since you use the male connector for the battery? It does look pretty good though! 

Next time I disassemble I'm gonna flip the diffs and turn the Trans around!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

by rebuild I meant spray out with motor cleaner and re-lube the bushings. and I just put on the deans without thinking, then modified it to for me to understand better. as you can tell by my spelling, Im not the best educated person in the world... :lol:


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Next time I disassemble I'm gonna flip the diffs and turn the Trans around!


I though that was illegal in most states :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Givin ya a hard time Smoe!! :lol:

Bill - Uummmnnn...... Hey! I don't mean it THAT way! :tongue:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Givin ya a hard time Smoe!! :lol:


I know. just need to learn how to word my posts better :freak:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Racing again this weekend.... Bought some new packs to try out Integy stickered them at 602sec and 1.22 volt at a 20amp match, I wanna see if the cells were my problem! Last race I made run time 1st Q, felt it go soft right at the end of the 2nd Q and was dumping pretty badly at the end of the 3rd Q (but still had an A-Main run!), Ran my two other packs set for my XXXT and XXX4 in the main and had no dumpage with run time to spare.... Methinks my Maxx batteries lost their match or something! But they work awesome in the my truck and buggy, run time not an issue.


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## snickers (Aug 20, 2003)

So THAT'S what's in the bag on the pit table


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

I'm suprized your running them more than once or maybe twice a day for racing. I thought the rule of thumb for these new batts was once a day?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Nah, the NiMh's can handle multiple runs thru the day as long as you let them cool before recharging, usually you get better voltage on each charge (with a slight loss in run time), usually run time is not an issue with 3300's. I seem to be an exception in my Maxx!


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

I run my 3300 three times a day in the maxx without any problems.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Just in case anyone is interested I have super small cooling fans availabe that would be ideal for mounting directly on your E-Maxx ESC. Just use a couple small dabs of shoo-goo to stick them on the heatsinks... use two fans for full coverage.

Find more info on the HobbyShopper web site at http://www.hobbyshopper.com

Click for a picture >


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

wow... those things are tiny.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Well, I havnt posted in the ol' Emaxx discussion for awhile.
Here is the reason..









and sorry for the offtopicness; it wont happen again :lol:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

nice, smojoe! Looks like a losi xxx-s (judging by the way the motor is mounted.)


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Its a yokomo mr-4tc

now to make this maxx related...

My LHS still hasnt gotten in my RPM bulkhead braces, so I havnt been running the maxx much. Three times since I got the torpedo, i think..  and its been raining on top of that, and you guys know what happens when you mix water and the EVX :lol:


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I know what you mean. I've never had an evx blow out, but at the track last night some guy's speedo caught fire (doesn't that sound painful?), so I can imagine what an evx would do.


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## E-Supermaxx (Jun 29, 2003)

Hey, I know this might not fit here, but In the buy sell part, I have an emaxx supermaxx chassis for sale if anyone's looking for one. Check it out!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

took the maxx out for a small jump session in the grass today. flies much better then how I remember with the old chassis. still getting used to the in-air control and also need those bulkhead braces (  ) before I go hit the dirt.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

cool!!


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

Ok I have a couple questions...for someone getting a new widemaxx style emaxx, and no realistic near term future racing goals for the truck so I guess playing only driving. What are the best mods? I was thinking of the slipper clutch, and possibly some sort of aftermarket driveshafts (after a bit of research). Am I missing anything?

Now with that said I have heard that the diffs too need to be upgraded...who makes better diffs? Traxxas?

Would you guys say the Gorillamaxx, or xtreme carbon style chassis' are only needed for competetion? Is it because the chassis' sit lower? Are they lighter? I read that the gorilla is slightly heavier than the stock chassis.

Has anyone thought of trading the 8 shock setup for 4 of the 8th scale ones like those found on the dominator? Seems to me that this wouls lighten up the truck and do the same job as the 4 extra shocks??? Of course I could be off base here.

Thanks

Paul


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well, if all you're going to do is play, get the truck and drive it. Purchase hop ups as you see fit. If something seems to be wearing funny, thats a good candidate for a hop up.

For bashing I would say the most important hop up woulf be Heat sinks, something to keep the heat down, it will increase longevity.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Hop-up wherever you see fit. I busted a stock skid plate, so I got aluminum ones. I took a big chunk out of a stock a-arm, so I got RPM arms. I convered my sticks to side-by-side and could flip the truck without even trying, so I got the Torpedo chassis. and now my rear diff is acting up, so it seems im going to need to save up for some SM ultralites 
Dont just set out and say "I'm going to buy this", because if you get that part, then break a weaker link of the truck, your a sitting duck for a while.


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

I tried looking at the bomb proof chassis but it seems the page wont display for me. It shows their logo but thats it! I wonder if they are having difficulty or something.

I didn't want to come across as an "Im ready to buy anything" guy, I was really just trying to translate all the pages of posts into a small synopsis of the "weakest links" of the truck...and it seems most folks would say driveshafts/heat/chassis? That's all.

Any thoughts on the 4 1/8th scale shocks vs the 8 10th scale?

I can't wait to start bashing around!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

heat is main. diffs, driveshafts, and if you put enough power in, tranny, are the "secondary" weakpoint for bashing. 

If your strapped for cash, four 1/8 scale shocks should work well, but if you want to add to the "pimp factor" of the maxx, go with eight :thumbsup: 

p.s. at the bottom of the bombproof page, there should be a link that says "home" in a blue box


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

They work, but I don't think they are any better necessarily. If you plan on doing some huge jumps an upgraded shock would be wise but the stockers work fine for the most part.

with the newer E-maxx some of the drivetrain issues have been resolved so they aren't an issue.


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

Is anyone going to get the new pro line shocks?

Tom, are you and the boy’s going to make it this weekend?


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

I don't know about the new shocks...Im going to wait and see. On the project sportmaxx on the traxxas site they have tried the 1/8th scale shocks...I may try this too.

Im still trying to get on the bombproof website but for some reason I can't get there...I dont see the blue enter button, just the fire/chassis picture.
Yeah the truck Im getting (this week) has the widemaxx style stuff on it, so Im thinking the drivetrain may not need immediatde upgrading...but it sure is fun to look!

I also saw a stamped flat alum chassis on ebay...kinda along the lines of a gorilla type chassis.

You would think that this truck would have at least a pretty stong racing class around it, being as that the maxx/savages etc have sprouted such a good one...dunno I don't see much.
Anyhow, Im going to play with it and see where it ends up (modifying).

Anyone switch to the aluminum Trinity or any other makers bulkheads? Seems that this would improve the drivetrain itself. Dunno??


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

I think adrenaline made the chassis  search ebay for e-maxx chass thats where I saw it.

The seller had a rating of "0" so I sort of hesitate buying from those folks but look at the picture anyway...any thoughts?
Paul


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I plan on it Lollie, the only reason I wasn't there last time was because my Suburban broke down on the way out there! I was P.O.


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

Well, I just got my emaxx (bought from circuitfixr here thank you) and he did a great job with it. It is a very clean, nice looking truck. It in no way looks to have been abused at all. The truck came with a complete set of rpm skids and rpm purple rims on it as well as aluminum body mounting equipment! I have not had a chance to drive it yet but as soon as my towerhobbies order arrives it'll be ready for it's maiden voyage.

I ordered a set of the parma graphite battery holders, and some deans ultra plugs to change the esc over too since that is what all my batts have on them. I also ordered an HPI vw bug body (always been a beetle fan) robinson's slipper assembly, and trinity's motor mount.

It should arrive in the next few days, and its getting tough just looking at the truck!

So with that all said Im still looking into weather or not I want to go with a more wild chassis such as the one made by xtreme...just don't know yet, I think (realisticly) a set of quality titanium hinge pins will be next on the hop up list...who knows mabey then the novak hv??

Sure is fun to dream while looking at catalogs and window shopping!


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## transamcrazy (Nov 28, 2003)

ive got a question for everyone about the emaxx. i just ordered the new tamiya twin detonator. its a duel motor 4x4 truck(supposed to be pretty good). i also ordered a evx speed control with 2 emaxx titan motors for it. i was told that one of the motors had to be reversed due to the 4 wheel drive. is this true with the emaxx? can anyone help me out with this? let me know.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Herc Driver said:


> Sure is fun to dream while looking at catalogs and window shopping!


It sure is. Ive had my maxx for under a year and Ive only got about 1/4 of the stuff I want to put into it. getting an MX-3 and looks like I'm buying myself ACNCM bulks for x-max, so thats two more things off the list.. :thumbsup: 




transamcrazy said:


> i was told that one of the motors had to be reversed due to the 4 wheel drive. is this true with the emaxx? can anyone help me out with this? let me know.


both motors on the emaxx spin the same way


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

Thought you guys might liek to know what happens when 2 e-maxxes meet head on full speed 
Take a look 
http://www.hobbytalk.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/940/password//sort/1/cat/500/page/1
This is from when I first got my E-maxx years ago and it is also a friends truck that got broke nothing happened to mine.
We do this stuff all the time on purpose jsut to have fun and boy do they take the abuse )most of the time)
Also I am looking of ra few things for my Maxxes 
I just got the SM stage 3 chassis looking for aother SM stuff and a better servo saver 
Also anybod knwo where I can get motor spray to resale cheap and by teh case 
LMK


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

Casey! I want you to keep me updated on that supermaxx chassis! How heavy is it?
Are you using aftermarket diffs or stock? I know you been maxxing a while so I figure you got some sperience! (mispelled for effect)

Can't wait to get mine going.

Im thinking of getting rid of the alum body mounts and going with an rpm set. Dont really see the need for aluminum.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Casey - I had an E-Maxx do that, actually it was the kids when they Lawn darted it off a big jump. 
TJ had a head on last night with another Maxx, guy had (keyword HAD ! :lol: ) an RPM bumper on the front that shattered and piecesflew an easy 10ft! TJ was going full bore down the straight and this other guy spun out and was going the wrong way, he wasn't going fast, but it was head on. The noise was loud! TJ has an aluminum bumper luckily, but the front of the skid broke.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

transamcrazy said:


> ive got a question for everyone about the emaxx. i just ordered the new tamiya twin detonator. its a duel motor 4x4 truck(supposed to be pretty good). i also ordered a evx speed control with 2 emaxx titan motors for it. i was told that one of the motors had to be reversed due to the 4 wheel drive. is this true with the emaxx? can anyone help me out with this? let me know.


It all depends on your truck. On the emaxx they spin a central spur gear so they spin the same way, but if your twin detonator has the motors mounted to the axles 1 of them may need to be reversed.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Here is a little teaser on the progress of my maxx. I’ll have more pics up later.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

wow. that really is a teaser. All I see is the little red x.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

host must be down. oh well, I'll try again later....


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I know this is against everything I stand for, but I just needed one more post to get to 500. woot! :dude:


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## Herc Driver (Oct 4, 2001)

got my package from towerhobbies today...charging batts...soldering deans plugs....more to come!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

That's OK Smoe, I did that to hit 1000! 

I have a whole new set of bearings on order for my maxx some polyamide shielded ones, supposed to be really good bearings. Hopefully it will solve the slowness of my truck! I'm tired of it being slow and dumping my 3300's in 5 minutes!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

so did the pic work? I want to know before I post more... :freak:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Got my bearings, installed them. Fount one outdrive bearing severely blown out, the bearing balls were melted to the inside of the diff housing! I'm sure that didn't help! Kinda bummed because they shorted me 2 axle bearings in the kit the bums! Gonna have to wait untill i'm done being sick to test it out.... Bad head cold... I don't think its the flu.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

smojoe said:


> so did the pic work? I want to know before I post more... :freak:


 Yeah, it's working now.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> Yeah, it's working now.


thats good

uno mas ​


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Looks Good!!


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## [email protected] (Dec 3, 2003)

Hey, check out a kick butt E-Maxx that a NFL player (Steelers) bought from Steel City Hobbies.. There is over $3500.00 in this bad boy... and it kicks butt. Other players bought E-Maxx's and had modified motors installed... giving the 2.5 T-Maxx a run for thier money... The T-Maxx was amung their favorites though... check out www.steelcityhobbies.com for some pictures. Have fun! :wave:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

So whats this? Sounds like Steel City Hobbies maintains and provides bodies for the players... Is this a publicity thing? I'm sure those players could afford to buy whatever they want..


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## [email protected] (Dec 3, 2003)

Publicity? On the contrary... all in good fun as I work with some of those guys... must be nice to be able to afford whatever you want... but then again, they can be some of the toughest customers. Just wanted to share some incite to boys with some awesome models. :wave:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I spent more time there than just looking at pictures, I read things like "Jerome's truck has been repaired and returned from SCH and all keep their Traxxas T-Maxx's and SportMaxx's running strong 24/7. We had a tough time at first, keeping these cars running as they have just completed the "Break-In" phase." And "Plaxico was entertaining the audience with a few radical driving skills. He ended up breaking two front bulkheads and a skid plate. As of this writing, SCH has already rebuilt his truck back to spec." Plus things like "Deshea breaks out his new HPI Savage sporting a custom body from SCH" Make it sound like Steel City Hobbies is doing an awful lot of work for the players involved.

Don't get me wrong, it's cool and all, but I'd be more impressed if you were hosting a race somewhere and they showed up to participate. Not you take your truck that says Steel City Hobbies on the side with a truck load of T-maxxes to the Steelers training camp and got some players to drive them for a photo shoot. It says "presented", "given", "provided by SCH" & "recieved" in the story line a few times, nothing about the players buying anything.

I guess it's just me, I hate when people get things given to them for free just because of their celebrity. Just like when George W. got that $350 leather Matt Kenseth 2003 Winston Cup championship coat.... Why?

Sorry for the rant....


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

The trucks look pretty sweet, but I think $350 can be spared for the President. I really don't consider him a celebrity. More important than that.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

To me the Bush thing is more that I really don't think he even follows NASCAR other than what he may see on the news (he has too much other stuff to occupy his time). He probably really didn't know who Matt Kenseth was untill he was told he was coming for a visit.......


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> who Matt Kenseth was.......


Who is that? lol

Im not against anyone getting anything free because they probobly got it for a reason. Bush got the jacket because he's the prez and those steeler guys got their blingin' trucks because when people see them, the see the hobby shop stickers and stuff and go there to see if they can get a blingin' truck just like their favorite football player. its marketing


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

That's true. My lhs ultimate hobbies sponsored the monster truck exhibition at two monster truck rallies at the Arrowhead Pond in anaheim. They said that after the event they had a big sales spike. 
But yeah tommckay I do agree with you. I doubt He's ever heard of Matt Kenseth lol.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I know Smoe, and I understand it. But I still don't have to like it too much! :lol: I'm such a hardass!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

So what you guys get your maxx for x-mas?

I got it ACNCM bulks and an MX-3 radio, but you guys know that allready...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Just the Polyaimide bearing set.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

anyone know where I can get 3x_ philips countersunk machine screws for the emaxx thats not $1.50 for six (I checked my hobby shops and hardware shops. no one has them cheaper)


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

A buck and a half for 6 is pretty cheap. Doubtful you'll find them cheaper any place else.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, considering I need about 40 of them...... thats more money then I want to spend on a bunch of screws


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

You might try McMaster-Carr at http://www.mcmaster.com Might be able to get them a little cheaper in that quanity.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Check E-Bay, They have Stainless steel screw kits for the maxx, very nice. Probably look great on that maxx of yours! I think they run about $25.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Would you happen to know if they are all philips screws? I got REALLY ticked off at all the hex screws I have on the maxx (stripped out three at one time. no locktite on them and was useing the right size wrench) I think the screws were just crud, but I like philips better


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

No, they would be all Hex screws. If you have a nice set of hex wrenches you won't have a problem. I kept having problems with stripping and thought I had a quality set. I have since learned they were not & now have some nice ones.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

:drool: Im so tempted to get this.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3166710385&category=19168

Is this the kit you were talking about? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3166380072&category=44023

So what kind/type/brand of wrenches did you end up buying?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, those are the ones. 

The drivers I was using were Wolfe, now I have the dynamite set and they seem to be pretty good. I know there are better sets out there though.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Racing tomorrow....... Oh Boy!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Hope you have better weather then were having here. Its been raining on and off for, I think, four or five days now. 
Good luck, non-the-less!

ordered that screw kit today; prority mail. should be here in a couple of days. :thumbsup: 
and in other news, still no package from the LRP headquarters


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Oh yeah, weather not a problem here. Had a flat on the way to the track though. Now I gotta buy a new tire.  

Truck was still much slower than others, I think I'll have to spray all the new bearings out and lube them with some good oil. Still qualified well (6th in the A) and finished 3rd. Pretty good for a slow truck, thank god it handles like a dream! If I had speed I'd be unbeatable!  I hope!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

cannot.... let.... thread.... reach.... bottom.... of.... page......  

If your wondering why I havent posted much over the last few days, I got a new motherboard, case, and harddrive for my computer. Been working on all that for awhile. :thumbsup: 

also got my SS screws in and my ESC back from LRP (guess I didnt fry it  )


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Cool, Must be you got the motherboard, case, & Harddrive operational? 

Lots of screws to do!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Cool, Must be you got the motherboard, case, & Harddrive operational?


yep. Half Life never looked sooooo good! (its a computer game)



tommckay said:


> Lots of screws to do!


yep. I'm wondering what the guy who made the bulkhead to shock tower mounting system was on when he did that.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, no straight in shot at the lower screw. they do make Hex wrenches with a ball end for just that type of situation though.


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## carsonb (Mar 15, 2003)

*E-Maxx*

What is the run time on a good set of batteries for the E-Maxx.
Does anyone know if Traxxas is coming out with any improvement for the E-Maxx this year?


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## carsonb (Mar 15, 2003)

*E-Maxx*

If you guys were to start over, would you still get a E-Maxx, if not what other electric monster truck would you get.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

carson I think about 10 minutes is for a good batt 3300 mah.

I would get an e again, and try the very best batts I could afford.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Oh duh, I did get the best I can afford , it just wasn't very much haha


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I would get the E-maxx gain. I race mine and there is not another quality E-Monster out there to compete now.

If I was going gas, it would probably be the HPI Savage, not the T-Maxx.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I get 10-15 minutes on my cheap 3000's. not the best punch, but they get the job done.

The electric version of the Kyosho Mad Force (hopefully will come out soon) is what I would get if I did the whole "EMT" thing again. Too much money in the maxx to go back, though...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

They are making an electric Mad Force? Interesting. But there's still too much support for the E-maxx to switch.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

"Twin Force"... See Hanks "press release". Still nothing on the Kyosho Website.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Wow, this was the last thread on the page..... Rescued again!

I'm gonna sell one of my 3 E-maxxes.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

I'd like to buy a cheap narrow roller, don't need the arms or any electronics


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> I'm gonna sell one of my 3 E-maxxes.


youWHAAA?!?!

lol, I understand fully. I'm kind of regretting putting so much money into my maxx when I get just a much (or more) fun out of the touring car I bought for 1/10 the price.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol Smojoe. Yeah I understand what you're saying. I've been racing my touring car every possible saturday, so its been getting a lot of tlc. My maxx has been dormant for a while, but that's because I lost the deans-to-tamiya adapters i had lol. I've been meaning to convert my evx to deans but i keep forgetting to pick up the plugs.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

deans to tamiya adapter? geeze, should have just stuck with tamiya plugs. less resistance then both the plugs. you must have been hit in the head a few too many times with paintballs. :lol:

*edit* speaking of paintball, thats another thing I should have kept cheap. good ol' airsoft for me now. picked up a gun and pellets at my local sports shop; cost me less then $20.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

lol. No I didn't get shot in the head too many times, i just converted my losi and evader (which has been in a box all summer) to deans, along with all of my batteries, but I never got around to doing my evx. I would just use adapters, and since i dont race the maxx it doesn't really matter. However, I lost the adapters, so I'll switch it over to deans once I get the plugs.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Guver, the one I'm selling ain't no roller, It's an RTR with all my goodies. I just want to get a NEW truck, sounds wierd, but I an wierd so thats OK! :freak: 

Pro-Line kit w/Lunsford turnbuckles, Center CVD in rear, Rear CVD's, Dynamite shocks, Dynamite Steering bellcranks, RPM Bumpers front & rear, RPM Skidplate set & bulkhead braces, RC Raven Chassis Braces and Servo guard, Stock tires & rims, Pro-Line 40 Series Masher tires on Velocity rims (only run twice), stock radio gear and servos (gonna keep the Hi-torquer I have!).

Haven't decided how to sell it just yet, nor how much I want, I know I would want to get $275 or better but I'm not sure if it's realistic even with all the extra goodies.

Whatchu guys think?


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

JB_The_Evader said:


> lol. No I didn't get shot in the head too many times, .


Now that I think about it maybe i did. I didn't use adapters, I used some tamiya plug pigtails that I soldered on to my batts when I was running my maxx.


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## snickers (Aug 20, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Wow, this was the last thread on the page..... Rescued again!
> 
> I'm gonna sell one of my 3 E-maxxes.



One of YOUR 3 E-maxxes? I payed for mine myself, thank you.

Just playin dad.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hush you! :lol:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

so if your going to sell a maxx does that mean your going to buy that UE center shaft off me? :lol: 

its still sitting there in my toolbox. if anyone wants to make an offer just pm me :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

That would actually have been for Snickerses truck. Want it Snickers?


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

Hey Joe post a pict of it 
I am building a UE Maxx I already have the 16 cell chassis with the CVd's that come with it But I could use some for 1 of my other 6 maxxes (not like Tom's wimpy 3)
LMK if you guys got stuff to Pimp it out 
Tom I will give you $40 for the Shocks off that truck LMK
Casey


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

its only a rear shaft with two MIP outdrive cups. I'll see if I can find a pic.

*edit* here ya go
http://www3.freepichosting.com/Images/94126/6.jpg


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## snickers (Aug 20, 2003)

Nah, i don't want it, my E-maxx is running fine


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

How much did you want for it Joe


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

You got PM, Promatch


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

bump....  

Ive found the perfect place for maxx bashin'. My highschool! has the perfect conditions including grass, pavement, and what you racers would call 'blue groove.' best part is, Im there every weekend for science olympiad :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Location: CA........ Uh Huh... See, around here the current surface outside is Snow, Ice, and the occasional patch of pavement or frozen dirt.  :tongue:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, a few days ago it *was* dirt but now its nothing but mud


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I'd take mud about now! Tired of winter, ready for spring. only 2 more months!


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## BIGG-K (Sep 2, 2002)

Anybody know where I can find the metal gear housing thats inside the diff, instead of that plastic one , that I keep destroying. HELP!!!!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Check Unlimited Engineering, I think they make one. I know there are other places as well. Seen them on E-bay before...


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Check Unlimited Engineering, I think they make one.


they only "make" diff cups for 1/8 scale diffs. 

I looked around for you, BIGG-K, and didnt find much. however, i did find some diff stuff on the maximizer website ( www.maximizerproducts.com ) that might be usefull to you. 


I got the shock socks in that I ordered. they were a little hard to put on, but keep the shock shaft and stuff clean (had a bashing session in some wet dirt; not mud, but just wet dirt.) I should have some pics up as soon as I find my photo editing software.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Sold My Maxx on E-Bay, took less than 9 hours. I'll be getting a new truck to piddle my money away on now! :lol:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

congrads, tom! guess I wont be getting those idlers then.....


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

Check out my e-maxx for sale 
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=75284 
If it doesn’t sell I would consider parting it out. It cost 1300.00 to build and selling it for 600.00 Tom has seen this truck.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yep Lollies is a great truck, If I had the cash....

I didn't realize you has that much into it though! Wow!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Bump....  

nice truck, lollie :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

New E-Maxxes are really fast!! The new one I got is soo much faster it's almost scary. I was pulling everybody on the straight and clearing the triples consistantly (even after 5.5min of running!) which is unheard of with an E-maxx. The only mod on the truck was the steering servo. It was so fast that my normal suspension set up wasn't working as well as it normally would, but needless to say, I'm Happy!


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

Tom is there any changes to the new one? I think I will be out at Washtenaw next weekend.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not that I can tell Lollie, everything looks the same.
If I can get the handling down or re-learn my throttle control on the infield, it will be spectacular!

I know you were coming real close to clearing the triples with your truck, or were you clearing them?

The only thing I saw with clearing the triples, was that you had to be careful with that off camber corner right after them. You carry so much speed after the triple that it's easy to slide way out in that corner or if you get it tight it becomes a decent jump that will throw off your line. You got to hit it, land, slow it, and make the corner right, which is even harder to do in traffic!


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## lollie302 (Sep 19, 2002)

I only cleared them nicely once and that was before the race. I still need some more steering out of mine, I think I’m too light with the front oil.


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## Joe Novak (Apr 11, 2003)

Has anybody checked out the brushless system for the e-maxx? The novak HV? I have one on order just waiting for it to arrive!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Havn't seen the Novak system in action, but have seen a Hacker run. Very nice, fast & great run time.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

All I have heard about the novak system is that it is about a powerfull as stock; maybe even more. Then again, that was from one of their ads, so who knows...

sounds like your having fun with your new rig, Tom. Maybe I should come to michigan to see how my truck would fair on your track...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

That would be real cool! Ever raced with 15 other Maxxes before or 10 in one heat? Pretty fun stuff!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Cant say I have, Tom. Hopefully there will be a track in my town some day. Actually, I overheard the people at my LHS (there is a small one in my town, but usually go to one in another town) talking about getting the city to let them build one. doubt it will support maxxs, though.  

Been working on setting my yokomo up for drifting. I have the settings down, I just need to learn how to drive it right... :freak:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Drifting is really fun! I've had some real fun drifting before. It's not the fast way around a track, but it's real cool!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Ive only ran it on a 20x20ft square of concrete so far, but yeah, its a ton of fun! :thumbsup:


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## Joe Novak (Apr 11, 2003)

Well I have two of the 5800 brushless systems from novak and they run and perform flawless! The power is great,if this new HV system is as good as there other systems it should be great. I have one more question for you guys,I just picked this e-maxx up last week and plan to race it this year out side do you use the two speed or do you usually just keep it in one gear to race?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

that seems to depend on many things. first is the track. if its a tight track, you may want to keep both gears, just because you can accelerate faster out of the turns, but if its pretty open, 2nd should be more then enough. also is drivability. I have the torpedo chassis, which means no more wheelies (even in first), but with the stock chassis, the truck is simply to easy to flip, so that would mean keeping it in 2nd just to keep the front end on the ground and being able to control it


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Where we race, it's always 2nd gear.


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

*Brushless, Titan 550 and Trinity Monster*

Besides cost. The Hacker runs 5-7 mins with 1 motor (196 watts). Imagine how it cooks your battery if you hook up to of them?

My Wild Trinity (19 turns) has 65 Watt, makes it 130 total, and runs about 15 min.

Going to the Trinity Pro (17 turns) which have 113 Watts each for 226 total is alredy getting me down to 7 or 8 minutes on my 3000 NiMH no name batteries. But 400 Watts? I can't imagine that this runs long (besides that it certainly will shred all your internals, from motor shaft to wheel hub).

Nice it would be, though.

Does anybody have good details (power, torque, rpm over voltage, etc.)? Let me know.


Volker


"I have heard that one brushless motor is more powerfull than the two titan 550's put together. Imagine what two would do! the problem: cost. 
2 BL motors and speed controls would run $500 easy. That's too much!"


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

I use my 2 gears, since my driving takes me off road and back on pavement, up the hills on dirt and back on the driveway for a nice jump.

I am even selling my JR Racing X3 digital radio and replaced it with a standard Traxxas, since the shift know on the standard is so much nicer (and I did not know how to effecitvely use all the digital settings stuff on the JR. Its on ebay right know).

Regarding your BS 5800: How do they compare in power (assuming you only have one motor installed) with the standard Titan 550 for example.
Low end torque, speed, batterielife, etc.? How much run time do you get out of your batterie set (size ?).

Let me know.

Volker




Joe Novak said:


> Well I have two of the 5800 brushless systems from novak and they run and perform flawless! The power is great,if this new HV system is as good as there other systems it should be great. I have one more question for you guys,I just picked this e-maxx up last week and plan to race it this year out side do you use the two speed or do you usually just keep it in one gear to race?


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

*New E-maxxes faster?*

Are they fastER than the old ones? Do you know what has changed?
What gears are you running (standard is 18/64, or?)

Volker




tommckay said:


> New E-Maxxes are really fast!! The new one I got is soo much faster it's almost scary. I was pulling everybody on the straight and clearing the triples consistantly (even after 5.5min of running!) which is unheard of with an E-maxx. The only mod on the truck was the steering servo. It was so fast that my normal suspension set up wasn't working as well as it normally would, but needless to say, I'm Happy!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

is your friend. 

If you can get enough cash for the JR, an airtronics MX3 works VERY well for emaxxs (I would know, I got one  )

if you can afford to put 400 watts of power to the maxx, you should be able to afford a bulletproof maxx. heck, my drivetrain could stand a mild BL setup, but Im running stock titans and EVX with some cheap-o 3000s.


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

*Battery Tub cuts wire*

Thats what happened to me on the fist use of my 4 brand new 3000mAh NiMH packs. 

Since it is cut very close to the pack, electric tape fix is not even easy to do, and makes it more difficult to get the wire past the post.

Any good ideas so far?

Volker




JB_The_Evader said:


> I am assuming you were either watching the e-maxx movie that had music or the one called "lighting". If so, those were the videos that influenced me to pick the E-maxx over the t-maxx or the lose xxxnt sport rtr. The only problem I have is that with my rocket packs, the battery tub cuts the wires close to the pack. Well, it only cuts the insulation, so I use electrical tape to fix it up. I'm worried it will short one day. Does anybody know if trinity still makes that battery repacking kit?


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

*Airtronics MX3 over stock radio*

What do you like better on yoru Airtronics compared to the stock?
When usind the JR XR3, the only thing I like better was the voltage readout to tell me when it is time to get new AA in.

Let me know.

Volker




smojoe said:


> is your friend.
> 
> If you can get enough cash for the JR, an airtronics MX3 works VERY well for emaxxs (I would know, I got one  )
> 
> if you can afford to put 400 watts of power to the maxx, you should be able to afford a bulletproof maxx. heck, my drivetrain could stand a mild BL setup, but Im running stock titans and EVX with some cheap-o 3000s.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I believe standard gearing is 18/66, but I Haven't counted the teeth on mine to say for sure. I don't know if they changed anything at all on new maxxes, I just know that my old one was OK and the new one is much faster. I couldn't even drive it right because of the extra speed, kind of a bummer, but cool at the same time!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

vtraudt said:


> What do you like better on yoru Airtronics compared to the stock?
> When usind the JR XR3, the only thing I like better was the voltage readout to tell me when it is time to get new AA in.
> 
> Let me know.
> ...


My stock was a little glitchy, and the airtonics is just soo smooth, Ive only had it glitch once, and that was when another radio was on the same frequency. It has a toggle switch instead of the momentary on the XR3 so you can shift into 2nd and not have to keep your hand on it to stay in second. uh... its got a LCD so you can digitally set servo endpoints and 'idle' position. I dont know, its just much better then stock.. :thumbsup:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

geeze, RPM arms and ACNCM bulks are tough. Just got in from a bash session and ran full speed into a piece of wood. only the left front wheel hit, but the maxx flew 180* around. both awsome and freaky! :freak:


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## radioman25 (Mar 24, 2004)

Hello all, I am currently in the process of purchasing my first e-maxx,
but i am having some trouble with a few things, thanks in advance for any responses.

my questions:
1. do most of you prefer the elctronics that come with the kit?
I have some older electronics i really like, and i was wondering if they would work with the e-maxx. I have a futaba magnum jr. controller and a lrp f1 esc w\ reverse....would these work or not? (im worried about the 2batt, 2motor, shifting elements, these features made me think that i couldnt use my existing elec's....

2. i plan on purchasing a hefty amount of hop ups when i buy my e-maxx, and i like the old style kits that you have to build, would it be reasonable to just buy my hop-ups and then order every other part seperate (based on the parts list at traxxas.com) and then build my maxx myself, thus saving me from having "extra parts" that my hop-ups would replace, and allowing me to build the truck myself, or is this a ridiculous idea?

thanks again for any advice, im just getting back in to this hobby after a few years, and im really exited to join the ranks of all the E-maxxers out there, but im just not sure on which direction to take,...hmmm-thanks again


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## glassdoctor (Apr 11, 2002)

Quick answers for you:

1.Your electrics will not work in the EMAxx. Your ESC can't run both motors on 12 cells (2 packs). The Radio would work if you want to switch gears by hand... but you need a 3 channel radio for the servo to shift gears.

2. It will cost you at least twice as much $$$ to buy every part you would need to build a truck from scratch. It's much cheaper to just buy the truck, buy what hop-ups you want, and tear it down to replace parts. At least then you get to do some wrenching on it anyway.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yup, those are the quick (and accurate) answers.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

buying the "RTR" (no batts & charger, so it isnt really ready to run  ) would be the best deal. you get a radio and electronics that are good for running the maxx, and you can hop-up whatever seems fit.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

bumpity.... 

Anyone know who sells dirt covers for maxx MIP CVDs? (booties, or whatever you want to call them)

*edit* changed my avatar (was taking up to much space) and I have 200 posts in this thread (how sad is that? lol )


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

grr... three post in a row. oh well, better to loose my rep then the emaxx thread 

Traxxas has released yet another revision of the classis tmaxx with a new suspension style and (what looks like) some various aluminum parts. also has some tires that just might find their way onto my maxx :thumbsup:

the webpage is pretty graphic intesive, but then again I have 26.4k dial-up.....
http://www.traxxas.com/REVO/revo.htm


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Don't have much to say... Sadly, my Maxx racing season is over.


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

*One or 2 speed?*

I have reduced my gearing (14 pinion) on my emaxx, since the mini course I am running requires quick acceleration and torque. 

I started with the standard gear, but ended up doing better in first than in second gear, but needed to shift on the faster parts.

12 and 13 pinion was just a little bit to short (or better: the Titan have enough torque to handle the 14 gear)

Now with the 14 and standard motors, I have found the best compromise.

When I get the Trinity motors back, I may have to change gear again (I assume the Trinity have higher rpm, but may lack the low end torque of the Titans).

Regarding the 5800 brushless: Are you running with one motor? Are they powerful enough? (If so, why is Novak coming selling now the HV system?)

Or in other words: were do you see the advantages of the new system (HV) over the 5800?

Volker

QUOTE=Joe Novak]Well I have two of the 5800 brushless systems from novak and they run and perform flawless! The power is great,if this new HV system is as good as there other systems it should be great. I have one more question for you guys,I just picked this e-maxx up last week and plan to race it this year out side do you use the two speed or do you usually just keep it in one gear to race?[/QUOTE]


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

The 5800 is not recommended for the E-maxx as a single motor, probably why Joe ran 2. The HV is made for 14 cell with a single motor.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Hey guys, stupid (maybe) question time. I know I remember somebody here had used the Pro-Line Maxx steering kit on their EMaxx. Ok here's the stupid question..........HOW? I'm sitting here with one all assembled and unless I'm doing something very wrong...it ain't gonna fit!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You have to dremel the chassis for the steering flat, so it has no extensions. The T-maxx chassis (what it is actually designed for) is a flat piece of aluminum where the steering mounts, you just need to have the E's chassis emulate that.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Tom......I'm assuming you even take the "rib" out underneith the 3/4" (approx.) standoffs then also? I have one shot at this or it's a new chassis for me!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Wait for another to answer that, I have seen vehicles with it done and have a good friend that has done it, but I have not done it myself to say the exact way to do it.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Just took a looksee at it again and it looks like I just have to whack off one of the "standoffs" for this to work. It comes with another standoff that would be used for the TMaxx. By using their supplied titanium tie rod, you need to cut off the opposite side (as looking at it from front, right) standoff however as the servo saver section of the steering kit needs to be located on the opposite side as the stock tie rod is located. This is off course unless you use the stock tie rod setup and then you could lop off the left side and use the stock rod. I'm going to hopefully dive into it tomorrow but if anybody else has any comments before I get started I'd appreciate it.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Well the conversion didn't go to bad. I guess the worst part was wondering if it was going to work!  I did have to cut about 1/8" off both ends of the tie rod that comes with the kit because it was too long. Check out a few pics to see what needs done. Pretty straightforward though actually.


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## vtraudt (Mar 15, 2004)

*Steering Problem Hitec Servo Saver*

I had upgraded from the lousy 2055 servo (with factory servo saver) to the Hitec HS645MG. Since the factory servo saver did not fit (should it???) on the Hitec servo, I ordered and received the purple Hitec Servo Saver. I installed it, using the larger hole for mounting the steering linkage.

I now have problems with the steering response, it seems it is not returning to the neutral position, which makes driving impossible. I have NOT changed anything else (i.e. same servo, same linkage, etc.).

What might be causing the problem?

Should I use (or make) another mounting hole closer to the center of the servo saver? (right now, the link is NOT exactly perpendicular to the servo saver in neutral position, since the link point is on a larger radius than before).

Thanks.

Volker


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

I would say you might have a servosaver that the spring isn't strong enough to work correctly. Try a Kimbrough servosaver made for 1/8 scale gas cars. And no the factory servosaver probably would not fit a Hitec servo. They more than likely have a different spline number. Anybody know how many splines the Traxxas servos have?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Traxxas uses futaba style horns.

Thats a nice servo saver system there, OvalmanPA. Keep us updated on performance, I dont feel good about not running a servo saver in my maxx and have been looking at the proline (cheaper then UE) for the torpedo..


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

I've also got a bit of a servo saver problem. I've upgraded the traxxas unit to a heavy duty OFNA servo saver, and yesterday at RCX I found an XTM servo for $26. Its actually too powerful (175 oz-in of torque @4.8 volts). It is pretty much overpowering the servo saver I have right now. The steering response is very mushy and extremely slow. the servo save is slipping easily. I could just get an aluminum servo horn, but that would put a lot of stress on the rest of the steering system. any ideas?


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Try one of the Kimbroughs. I have no idea what the OFNAs are like but the Kimbrough has one heavy butt spring in it.


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## JB_The_Evader (Mar 31, 2002)

Ok thanks, I'll have to check that out.


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

What color is the Kim one 
I have a grey looking one and was wondering if that was it


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I run the black Kimbrough made for 1/8 scales, I have zero problems with it.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Promatchracer said:


> What color is the Kim one
> I have a grey looking one and was wondering if that was it


This one is black in color.


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## RickRussellTX (Sep 26, 2001)

JB_The_Evader said:


> I found an XTM servo for $26. Its actually too powerful (175 oz-in of torque @4.8 volts).


 If you're using the stock Traxxas radio (without steering endpoint adjustment), you might want to use a hole on the servo horn (or servo saver) that is a little closer to the output spline. This will reduce the overall steering throw. That way you won't tear the steering system to bits by pushing it too far right or left. 

Rick R.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Are we losing interest? No posts since 4/27?? I know mine has been parked with the exception of the 2 runs I put on it a week ago in practice.


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## centari5000 (Jul 19, 2003)

ok ya'll I gotta couple questions. Has anyone here had to send in their evx to be fixed? If so what was the cost. (2nd) are there any other esc's besides the evx that will work in the emaxx? I think mine is fixable but just in case I want to have a back up plan. otherwise it is so long emaxx. any help on this would be apprec. 
thanks


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

I sent mine in for repair, it took 2 weeks and I think $25.00 There is a super e-truck by m-tronics no experience with it. I'm using 2 duratrax streaks in mine. no reverse though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

When I sent in my EVX they repaired it free of charge, even though I changed all the plugs. I believe this is just the first time you send it in (or I just got really lucky).

Ive been runnin the maxx once or twice a week now. No problems to speak of. Think I finally have the bulletproof maxx for stock power:roll:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I sent one in in January, it was $20.00. takes about 2 weeks. I think all they do is throw your aside to look at later and put another in the box to ship it back to you. I didn't get back the same unit I sent in, but it works great! I have heard of the M-troniks unit and checked into it thuroughly, it looks noce but runs about $140 to the $104 of the EVX, but the M-Troniks unit is waterproof!


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## centari5000 (Jul 19, 2003)

hey guys thanks for the info. it helped me out a lot


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

wow, over a month and no new posts. well, good ol' smojoe will bump this thread back up.... 

so hows everyone's maxx been doing? There is a huge pile of dirt in my back yard from the koi pond thats going in, and that has been my jump for the last month or so. However, my charger decided to no longer detect batteries (even when they are plugged in) so the maxx has been collecting dust for about the last week and a half. This may or may not be good because all avalible money is currently going into my computer, so I have yet to send in the charger for repairs in fear of the bill. well, enough rambling, start talkin' maxx, guys!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Mines had 2 runs since March. Just no racing class for it during the summer. The next romp will probably be over the 4th of July weekend when I'm up north Camping. Gonna take my Maxx, the 'pede, & the Mini-T.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

First race of the season for us last weekend. First time my truck had been out since last September! New Sporttrax tires hooked up pretty well and it seems like the new Pro-line steering kit works well too. Of course I tried not to run into anything to really find out how well it would work either.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

grr.... I went back to look at the pics from when I was putting together my torpedo and the hosting site deleted them! worst of all, they didnt delete JB's pics!! (then again, I havent logged in or anything to the host site in a LONG time) 

oh.... uhh.... bump


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

My maxx is patiently waiting for the next romp.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Had someone from the next class turn their radio on before I was off the track yesterday. The next thing I know my Maxx takes off through the pipe fence and into the creek running behind our track. I didn't want to keep using that VX12 anyway.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ouch, Ovalman! did just the electronics go or was everything broken?

you still have been using the vx12? I thought those were prone to catching on fire? or were they just naturally attracted to creeks?  :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well, if it was thinking about catching on fire, the creek is a good place for it. 

But yeah, I didn't thik there were any VX12's left in the world.


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Luckily from what I can tell so far it was just the ESC that was killed. I took the receiver and ESC right out that night and blew any water out that might have been in them. Put another ESC in and it seems to work fine but we'll see for sure Sunday. I think I've had the last two VX12s in existance and the other one is now in the truck! :lol: Seems they might just be naturally attracted to creeks.  They seem to work fine except when adjusting truck attitude in the air. Instant reverse on 4 pounds of rotating mass normally causes a pretty good nose dive so it's to be used *VERY* sparingly.  


I'm now saving for a new EVX........


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, the maxx has been sitting on the shelf for to long, so I took it out for a bash session today. here are two action pics taken by my sister


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Cool! I actually got mine out Yesterday and ran a set of batteries thru it. it was nice.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Had a blast at the park a few days ago. They had mowed the lawn the day before so the maxx was sending rooster tails of grass clippings into the air. Then I grabbed my skateboard and headed tword the sidewalk. man, this trucks got powah! (power, for you not-so computer nerds) sitting on the skateboard, one hand on the tx and another on the back bumper, you just kind of ease the throttle on while shifting the truck and your weight to steer. I actually got going pretty fast!

oh yeah, bump


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Ran mine up north over the holiday weekend, It was pretty cool!


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## OvalmanPA (Mar 21, 2000)

Sent in that toasted VX12 to Traxxas since their website didn't have a time limit on how long you could send them in for exchange and guess what showed up by big white van today?  I'm gonna slap 'er in tomorrow and give it a workout to see how it works. Now I just have to send the other one in. :thumbsup:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

summoned from the grave that was page three....

so hows the maxx runnin for everyone? mine has been collecting dust since those pics were taken. such a shame. worst of all I have yet to send in my piranha digital for repairs.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Haven't run mine since the last holiday. Still gotta get the shocks re-done. Racing season for it starts 11/13!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, I ran the maxx today up at my grandparents house. Had tons of fun climbing up semi-steep hills and jumping over a tree stump (looked kinda like this -> /'''''\ ). Only ran for like 10 minutes, but it was good to get it back out and get it covered with dirt.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Bump

Im gonna sell the maxx. Just dont have a reason to keep it. Anyone thats interested in a tricked out maxx, PM me, because otherwise Im gonna have my LHS sell it for me...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I'm just starting the Maxx racing season again. Raced it 2 weeks ago for a shakedown after sitting for most of the summer, my son stole TQ from me, but I won by a lap. So the truck is OK. still needs a couple tweaks to be great though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

sold the maxx. I'll check in every once-and-a-while and bump this thread up to the top. :lol:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

1st race at my favorite track got me qualified in 4th place and I probably finished 5th. still need some tweaking, this is a tight track this year so I need to get some more low speed steering dialed in. I got a few ideas to play with.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

*my T-maxx*

Well, heres my new project: This old maxx. got a T in a trade, and going to restore it to the old pro 15 version. when i got it, it was a 24.7 project/parts truck. Decided to restore it. Needs alot of parts still, but im getting there as the flow comes.

Heres where I stand so far on it:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Making an old school T-maxx? Narrow arms and all?


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

Yeop,  Never knew there was a wide version


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Maxx 2.5 is the "wide version", Traxxas decided to make the Pro-line Widening kit obosolete and make production kits wide as well. Kinda crimped the stablemaxx rim sales as well.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

Hoping people are still playing with there emaxx's as I am getting one for Christmas! I got the bug buying a Neco (sp) but it just isn;t cuttin the mustard. I have already done research and dowloaded instructions from Traxxus on constructing the 7 cell packs. I want to have them ready for 12/25 when i have the truck. Now I just need to find a place to race it! I have been searching for a place to run here in MA but havn;t found any luck locating a track. I guess I will just romp it for a while until I find a place. Looking forward to playing with it and making modifications.

Please start posting again guys, especially since I read through all 55+ pages of posts here. Especially want to here more race stories !

Bjornas


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yep. Still racing mine..... well up till last week. Hot set up is now Converted Revos so that's what I did, converted a nitro powered Revo to electric.

Be careful with that E-Maxx in MA, make sure you protect that ESC real good from water if you run it in the snow, the EVX ESC does not like water one bit, not even a drop!

If you have any questions, just ask!


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Wet running*

Of course I want to run it in the snow!

Since i read through the posts, i actually clicked through to someones web site with pictures of there bagging job. It made me kind of worried that the heat of the motors could melt the plastic onto the engines or batteries if they got to hot. Any better suggestions out there for snow running?

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not really. Bagging is the best way. You might be able to take some lexan strips (if you have any scrap Lexan) and make supports for the plastic to keep it off of stuff like that. But if you use baking bags that wouldn't be an issue.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Thanks - few more questions*

Thanks for the baking bag tip. I am trying to have everything together for 12/25 so I can go rip around on Xmas.

1) I am getting all the items and tools i need assembled so I can make my own cells. Inparticular i want to have a few fun 14 cell packs as shown on the traxxis "how to" page. They use Sanyo 2400 rc batteries in the example. 
Can you tell me the best place to buy those cells? And, is there a better alternative in your opinion to purchasing the 2400 RC's? and where could i buy them? Does it really matter what battery bars I use? Since I am new to assembling them, I wouldn;t mind experimenting with some lesser quality batteries, but I want to have fun with them! Recommendations please!

Especially where to buy them at a decent cost. 

2) Do you guys run 14 cells when you race?

3) Does anyone have a nice video of an all emaxx race?

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

The 2400 nicads are pretty much outdated now as are gp 3300's are close to being outdated also. Good cells to use are the 3600-3800 now. 4200's are soon to be out and will be expensive.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah, you can get good low cost GP 3300's, that's what I'd do.

There is some video out there of the A-Main at the last race that is in process of being put up. once it gets posted somewhere I'll put a link to it for you.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Battery technology*

When you say 3600-3800 are you referring to NIMH? or Nicad?

And no one mentioned best place to buy single cell.

Does the NIMH 3600-3800 require a special charger? And what amp should they be charged at?

Is Sanyo the way to go?

Thanks again,
Bjornas


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

anything over 2500 is nimh batts now. They are available at matchers and pack makers. PMR ,SMC, CBP, Battlepacks. Many others too. The 3300's are a bit cheaper now also. The only requirement for chargeing is a nimh charger, nothing special required. Charge at any rate up to 8 amps max.

Sanyo seemed to fall off the face of earth lately, I wonder if IB has anything to do with sanyo?


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Battery weight*

Don;t the higher Mah cells also come with more weight?

Is there some linear function with Mah to Weight ratio?

Secondly, doesn;t chemistry weigh differently?

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

The higher nimh are heavier than lower mah nimhs and also both heavier than nicads. It is pretty negligible though.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

C'mon, we're talking about an E-maxx! The weight of the cells is a non-issue! You could put 12 D cells in it & it would still rip it up!


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

D cells would add pounds to the truck, late sub C will add just grams.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Discharge rates*

If you had Nicad and Nimh cells both at the same Mah, Which batteries would produce a faster run?

Or?

Will one chemistry peak and flutter before the other one? Does one produce a higher voltage and discharge rate?

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Bjornas said:


> If you had Nicad and Nimh cells both at the same Mah, Which batteries would produce a faster run?
> 
> Or?
> 
> ...


They would perform about the same, the NiMh *may* keep a flatter discharge curve, but the big advantage with NiMh over NiCd is that MIMh does not develop the "Memory" that NiCd can & can last longer (more charge cycles).


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*It's here! Now charger questions*

My emaxx came wrapped and ready for me on Christmas, and the truck is so impressive. However, my mom got the package deal that came with an 1800 Mah Nicad battery pack and timed Nicad charger 8(. I asked my Wife to get me the radio shack 3300 Mah NIMH GP pack set for Christmas, so now I am stuck with two different chemistry's. I suppose having the 1800's can;t hurt but I need to get a good charger because I am going to get a few more sets of the GP 3300's. Any suggestions here what NIMH charger to get? The traxxas site said the Superbrain 969 charges two packs at once, which would be a feature I would want. Any advice here on which charger to get?

BTW: the 3300 packs weigh considerably more. I am gonna weigh them and post the diff.

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Bjornas said:


> If you had Nicad and Nimh cells both at the same Mah, Which batteries would produce a faster run?
> 
> Or?
> 
> ...


The nicad will produce the most power, but will be way heavier. Speed may be equal because the weight may cancel out the voltage increase. Theoretically If charged at the same rate then they would peak at exactly the same time. The resting voltage is about the same, but the larger diameter nicad will probably maintain a higher voltage during discharge and be able to deliver a slight higher max rate.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

the 977 seems to be the best deal for doing dual packs in a hurry.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

OK,

Went to find the 977 on the web for sale. It appears they don;t come with Tamiya connectors. What do people do who don;t want to switch their connectors? Do I need to order another part?

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

It comes with 2 tamiya connectors, have to make adapters for others or cut them off and install connector of choice.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

Thanks!


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Wheelies!*

I am loving my new emaxx! However, i found out after i glued my tires it likes to pop wheelies! Unfortunately I found out starting on the street and it did a number on my rear bumper.. Do you all put some kind of guard on the bumper?

Thanks,
Bjornas


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

I just let it scrape, but try to take it easy on the throttle.


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## ElevatorEd (Jan 6, 2006)

*E-Maxx Wheelies !*

I did the same thing ! I just figure that the new scars go with the fun of it ! Have Fun... :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

It's just a painted black plastic bumper, scrapes will happen. If you really don't want to have to worry about scrapes, get an RPM rear bumper. They come in silver, black, & blue. When they get scratched they don't show it and look like a heavy duty step bumper.


----------



## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

Thanks for all the comments guys! I will check out the RPM bumpers for sure.

8)


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

*Snap my front skid plate!*

Ok,

Took my Emaxx out for a romp and it was 10 degrees out. I barely touched this rounded curb i always run over and the skid plate broke off right before where the skid mounts to under the front axil. The front skid is attached to a long piece of plastic that goes way paste the axil and has the ss number on it. What should I replace it with?

I looked at the RPA replacement, and it looks like it only goes to about the axil. The piece that broke goes almost 1/3 of the way down the truck! 

Keep in mind the piece only broke in front of where it mounts to the axil.

Help Help! I hurt my truck!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well, I guess you found out that the plastic is brittle when it's really cold! :lol: 

I busted off my whole front bumper doing that several years ago.

I would replace it with another stock unit, the reason it is so long underneath is because it also provides mounting points for your steering bellcranks.


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## Bjornas (Dec 9, 2005)

Thanks Tom,

So you wouldn;t go for the aluminum sets some companies make?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I never found it necessary for the aluminum stuff, But then again I didn't really "bash" with my Maxxes, I raced them. "bashing" is where yo need the added strength of that stuff and the added weight don't matter.


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## mudbuddy3 (Mar 29, 2004)

*killer e-maxx*

has anyone tried li-poly packs yet? was thinking about a pair of those with the novak hv maxx system. any comments? i think this would be awesome!!! my truck already has a beefed up tranny, a traxxas posi in the rear and mip rear axles


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I've seen one, but not seen it run. It had 2 Li-Polys and the HV Maxx in it, the guy did it for the run time, he said he was getting 30-40minutes per charge depending on how hard he ran it. He did say it was REALLY fast though!


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## TimXLB (Oct 8, 2005)

Tom:

Hi,

Are you still racing you E Maxx???. mine is just sitting as there is no place to race. I ended up going to dual speedos (Cyclone TC's) as the stock ones were letting the majic smoke out all the time and I never used reverse. 
maybe i'll find a track thats still racing them close to where I live (if i'm lucky). 

Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well, Yes and no.... I'm not racing my E-Maxx anymore because I sold it. But I sold it to do a Electric conversion on a Revo, so I am racing an "EVO" in the E-Maxx class!

We still get a decent showing of Electric MT's there are 5 converted Revos & 6 E-Maxxes running pretty regular.


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## TimXLB (Oct 8, 2005)

Tom:

Hi,

I had thought about doing that. it sounded cool and I like the Revo suspension setup. again I have no place to race.  so we just run sedans when we get a chance.
My son is really fast with them and I just wrench for hm. I did build a 1/12th scale for me but I can never get it away from him either.
so we go to Josh's track when ever we get a change.

Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You say "go to Josh's track".... you mean Josh Cyrul's?? CEFX raceway?

If so, that's only a 1/2 hr to 45 min from where I race my Maxx/EVO at.


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## TimXLB (Oct 8, 2005)

Tom:

Hi,


Yes. we race there on Sundays (touring/1/12th) it's around 180 miles from our house. PM me the address where you race at and the times. and we'll try to make it down to run some dirt.

Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Washtenaw R/C Raceway At the Washtenaw farm council grounds just South of Ann Arbor. Gotta warn ya that it is a long race day though. Average is about 160 - 180 entries, 20+ heats, 3 qualifiers and a main. Sign in closes at 9:45am and racing starts at 10:30am, usually ends at 11:30pm or so.

If you want directions (I don't know the physical address) let me know, the final 4 races of the season are 2/4 (this Saturday), 2/18, 3/4, & 3/11.

Dirtburners in Commerce Twp will race E-Maxxes if enough show up. Given proper notice there could be enough show up to run there.


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## emaxxownr (Feb 9, 2006)

I just bought my first E-Maxx a couple of weeks ago and right away I didn't like the way the battery leads were getting pinched. I took a dremmel and carved a little "U" at the edge of the battery tub, sanded the edges a bit and finally lined it with just a little elec. tape. It works great and the wires don't bind at all. Hope this helps...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Pinched wires can be a problem with stick packs, but not an issue with assembled side by side packs.


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## [email protected] (Feb 9, 2006)

you can take the end caps off the batteries and reshrink them.also ,next time take the truck with you when you buy your packs,its hard to tell how they will fit without the truck.
JR @ STRONGSVILLE HOBBY SHOP


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

hi looking to buy e-maxx. any modes u think are need or any thing i need to know


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not really, Get it and have fun 1st. Then after you've run it you will be able to decide what hop ups if any you want for it.


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

thanks


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

battries
should i start with good boattries or save it for later and is 355 good for the hole packge.... from hobbytron


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

$355?? Depends on whats in the package & if it includes shipping. If it's for a brand new one with no extras it sounds a little high. If it's for a used one it is way high unless there's a ton of extra stuff with it.

Batteries is something you'll need to decide for yourself on. The better the battery the more the cost, but also the better the performance. I'd go with a mid range pack to start, get used to it, and if you decide you want more battery later get it.


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

or towerhobbies at $332 plus 1yearmember ship plus shipping


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Eh, Check this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-E-Maxx-Monster-Truck-4x4-RTR-Combo-New-NO-RES_W0QQitemZ6035933485QQcategoryZ44029QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/TRAXXAS-E-MAXX-TRUCK-RTR-NEW-IN-BOX_W0QQitemZ6037128785QQcategoryZ44029QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or from another source:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=TRX39068

or 

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/629187.asp <---- Not a bad deal either!


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

thanks for the imfo.


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

7 cell batteries. where can i find them. i have found but they are 8.4 V.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

All 7 cells are 8.4 V. The voltage is a multiple of how many cells are in the pack. 1.2v per cell multiplied by the amount of cells in the pack. 6 cells = 7.2v and 7 cells = 8.4.


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## e-maxx mad (Feb 14, 2006)

thank's a lot.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well i thought i would post here. i knwo a few of the regular posters from other threads here. i finally got a E-maxx!  a roller with esc and servos. it came with rpm claws, claw dogs tires, and a few rpm and MIP cvd goodies. think i got a good deal. and if i dont like it i can sell it back to the guy i got it from.

i have added some Tnx alloy clamping wheel hexes, going to direct solder the motors to the esc, and gear it up. no real big hop up plans. i want it as a my summer out door monster. will try and post up some pics soon-ish.

-peter-


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Watch how much you gear it up, it can easily take a tooth (19 tooth pinions) but going above that may cause thermaling issues in the ESC when you run it as a basher (full packs as long as possible).

Also beware of water, the EVX does not like water AT ALL, I've had one quit when I ran thru a 1/4" puddle on the blacktop.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Watch how much you gear it up, it can easily take a tooth (19 tooth pinions) but going above that may cause thermaling issues in the ESC when you run it as a basher (full packs as long as possible).
> 
> Also beware of water, the EVX does not like water AT ALL, I've had one quit when I ran thru a 1/4" puddle on the blacktop.


thanks tom!

my truck came with 9t pinions!

would it be a problem to change to 48 pitch gears? i have seen one or two posts about people doing it, but no longer term report on how the gears hold up. and do you know of a stainless steel hex head screw kit for it as well?

i installed the rpm skids it came with. i like the way they look, but wonder why rpm didnt make them fully cover the center of the bottom of the chassis. 


thanks again tom


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

has anyone used the ofna diff lock silicone in there stock e-maxx diffs?m i want a slow diff action.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

wow, long time since I've posted in here



ronbeck said:


> would it be a problem to change to 48 pitch gears? i have seen one or two posts about people doing it, but no longer term report on how the gears hold up. and do you know of a stainless steel hex head screw kit for it as well?
> 
> i installed the rpm skids it came with. i like the way they look, but wonder why rpm didnt make them fully cover the center of the bottom of the chassis.


48 pitch gears wouldn't hold up the the abuse of a basher. if you are going to be racing it should be OK, but I would check for missing/ messed up teeth.

The reason RPM doesn't have full skid plates is because then junk would get trapped in the tub that is created by the skid plate and the chassis braces. If you absolutely want a full center skid, duratrax makes one.

I've heard of people using the highest wt. Ofna diff fluid (100,000, I think) with success. Any lower and it will escape out the unsealed diff.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

9 tooth pinions? that's awfully small, did you mean 19 tooth?

I wouldn't change to 48 pitch, all you're doing is having fun, stick with the larger pitch for durability.

Do you have all 3 RPM skids? the center skid only covers from the front of the trans to the rear skidleaving the front open. 90% of the time your going forwards and a skid to cover the front would just trap debris around the steering linkage.

There are Hex screw kits available, it's up to you if you want to do it, they are very nice for replacing the screws where the chassis & bulkheads screw together.

As for slowing diff action, whatever you use is going to seep out eventually. Those diffs don't seal worth a darn. I never felt the need.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tommckay said:


> As for slowing diff action, whatever you use is going to seep out eventually. Those diffs don't seal worth a darn. I never felt the need.


Have you tried the ball-point pen spring trick, Tom? I had that in the rear when I had my maxx and it seemed to slow diff action a little.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i have the 100k and 150k diff lock, it leaked out of my tlt diffs. 

and tom the E came with the robinson 9t pinions....the guy was going for A E-maxx crawler. and it has the 3 peice RPM skids. there is only like a one inch gap open! hehe

okay no to 48 pitch
ofna diff lock maybe


i wanted to do the same thing with my E as i did with the pede i got from chris.... run it as is and rebuild change as needed. but hte shocks are way to soft, it's geared way to low, and i amm going ot bust somehting with the dual spools in it. i was thining 20wt oil front and rear with 2 hole pistons... does that sound liek a good starting point? this new larger truck is ne wground for me! so i am a little lost  


thanks again joe and tom!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Actually you might be pretty good with a spool in the back and a somewhat open diff in front. There's alot of people that run that way for fun running.

As for shock oil weights, I think 20wt is still too soft. It is a heavy truck & makes the suspension seem soft. I would go with 40wt for your application, when racing mine I used 80 & 60.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

you tom it's funny you say that. couse i mentioned that on another forum. that the truck is bigger then it looks! ahh i am torn with diff or spool in the rear. as this will see mostly street and grass. the rear drivelines seemed to take a beating in my few 9t pinion high speed runs  and it has about a 8-9foot turnig radius!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

the spool in back will help you get over stuff when you go out & really Bash like at construction sites and such where you can really have some F.U.N.!!!
I have no idea on how it effects turning radius though.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well my LHS was shorted the stock emaxx pinions. but i did realize that the clod and E use the same pitch gears! d'ohh so i threw on some 14t pinions and it was pretty fast compard to what it was. but is a bear to drive. i realized the masher 2ks are not glues to the rims. i would have done it last night but thinking i may need a harder foam for them first. 

i did get the '72 chev lid for it though. my 50's panel had a bad reaction to the body reamer! and it pinches in to tight for the e-maxx chassis, in my opinion...alos got a new digital camera nd if i can get one18th to take a few more uploaded pics i will post a link.

thanks again for the help tom!

i do have a E-revo Q for you?
what is your batt/motor/esc setup?
i have a aussie friend who is tempted by the gorilamaxx stuff!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I use 12 cells (GP 3700s), Stock Titan Motors, and the EVX. 19 tooth pinions and 66 tooth spur.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well i have small update, i installed the stock gear diffs with ofna 120K diff lock. and i cleaned and refilled the shocks with some 40wt oil, and picked up some ultra firm proline foams. a one18th forum member is sending me some 17t pinions and i have again put 18&19's on order with the lhs. 

and trying to figure out what color i should paint my '72 chevy body. i drive a 1973 gmc 3/4 ton red truck , my ultimate ******* ride . i love it. but red isn't my favorite color.....thinking silver or grey to go with the traxxas blue bits it has on it. 

thanks again tom for all the help and info!


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## ETOWNE (Apr 16, 2006)

Can Anybody Tell Me Where To Get A Bomb-proof Race Bomb Chassis.the Website Does Not Work For Them. I Want An 1/8 Scale Chassis To Run A Hv-maxx And 2 Lipos In Truggy Class


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

ETOWNE, I found info here http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/bomb.htm The site worked fine for me.

Says they are out of stock though & don't have a date when it will be.


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## ETOWNE (Apr 16, 2006)

thank you tommckay. got the phone #,call them in the morning


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i was wondering what motors you guys have tried in the E-maxx. I was wonderign if anyone has tried the 45/55/65 trun lathe motors. I do know about the trinity Monster maxx motors but not interested in them.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Lathe motors could be ok if you're doing a crawler, but if you want to have fun (and speed), stick with the stock Titans or a similar 550 motor. The regular motors you use in R/Cs and lathes are made for 7.2v (maybe up to 9v) and really take a beating at 14.4v from the EVX requiring alot more maintenance. You can get stock Titans for $22 each at the hobby shop wich ain't bad, even cheaper off E-Bay now & then.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

well, just broke my first parts:
2 shock caps
1 upper arm

are all upper arms for the E MAXX the same??


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i think i want to try the lathes. i run one in my tlt and it throws my truck around on 7.2v then the titan does on 8.4......i know 14.4 would make a world of differance but i have a clod i can run the lathes in if i dont like the way it moves.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

All E-maxx arms are the same on all 4 corners Uppers or lowers.


Peter! You gotta try the Titan motors with 14.4 volts!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i have. it scoots around nice, but i am spoiled by the brushless power of my stampede and my mini-lst! and the little jumping i have done with it this week it seems to need more speed. the motors looked like they were in good shape. all i know is i have been biten by the speed bug!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You won't solve the need for speed with Lathe motors, the Titans are 21 turn motors I believe. Have you run them on 14.4v with 19/66 gearing? The only way you'll get your speed fix if that ain't enough is to run 14 cells with the titans & flirt with thermalling the EVX periodically or get a brushless for it.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i changed the gearing to 66/18 yesterdayit was 70 or 72 18t. was a lot more fun. and right now i run 6 cell packs. i need to hold off on some of the little splurdge buys and go for batteries next time. hoping to hit a lhs that is closing tomarrow. they used to have a huge stock of fusion matcher 3700mah batts.

i know the lathes wont do what i want! but i have it set in my head i want to try it. and with the new Imex red rocks out i am trying to talk myself into a new chassis for the clod and i can use th emotors there. the chassis i wanted to use would force me at a 15-17inch WB, and i dont wnat to speend $200 on adapters, rims and tires..and i have a large collection of 2.2s already.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hidden agendas.... I know about those!


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## oldschoolsdime9 (Feb 19, 2006)

so I drove a tmaxx when i was 12, and hated it. I swore to god I would never own one. I now own one. rofl. but anyways can somone give me any advice on adjusting the shift points? it wont shift into 2


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not on a T-Maxx, sorry.


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## oldschoolsdime9 (Feb 19, 2006)

what do you mean not on a t maxx. that was one of the things they made a great big deal out of was that they had adjustable 2 speed transmissions, that everything was internal


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

this is the E-maxx forum. and we think you are asking us how to adjust the T-MAXX"s 2speed tranny. and they are not the same. 



welli had my first failure/brakeage with my E-maxx. busted the servo saver, lost very common hitek servo screw of 2.6x8 and busted a left front suspension arm. the saver that was on the truck was week. and the a-arm looked to be a little tweeked from the sellar. but it sure has been FUN!  i picked up some new gp3300's packs for $24.99 a pack. andwow fun times!


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## oldschoolsdime9 (Feb 19, 2006)

well i read the very first page and it say I could also post T maxx questions here. So i did, I posted in the regular monster truck forum and no one seemed to have any thoughts or ideas on it so i thought i would try here


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

ahhh  i never read the first page ;

never worked on T-maxx but i will try to help! 
the t-maxx shifts into 2nd gear on it's own. you cant tell it to go into 2nd it does it at a certain rpm point( i beleive).

the simple steps are make sure everythign is clean, no bent parts and go from there. but maybe the guys at maaxtraxx.com can help you better then i can.


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## oldschoolsdime9 (Feb 19, 2006)

lol its all good man sorry i came off as a dick, I sat here and read back through my posts and thought my god, i came off totaly different than how i meant it to be. but anyways I know it shifts automatically and there is an adjustment that you can do, but im not sure exactly how it should be done, i read on the traxxas page how to do it but i must just not understand or somthing haha, but thanks for the help


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Peter - That's not too bad... Wait until you do a "big Air" jump and loose it a little in the air for one reason or another and it lands square on its nose & you think you busted it clean in half (which you will pretty much do). Its a easy fix but it's really a "holy crap!" moment. What happens in the front bulkheads break where they mount to the chassis and the front skid snaps just in front of the steeering linkage. That leaves the only thing holding the front of the truck on is the tie rods and truck body. I've had it happen a few times.

I take it the new 3300's are helping with the speed fix?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showpost.php?p=287111&postcount=5907
my work in progress. installed my new 19t pinions. and rpm a-arms. need a new allen wrench to install the bearing carriers. got all the goodness in the pics for $30  i beleive this may be a pre wide maxx truck. but i am happy with it and in the future the rpm wide arms are not the at much. 

once i go tthe gp3300's i lost the 2.6mm screw for the hitek servo in it, and the a-arm was getting worse so i havent run the E with them yet. but hope early next week. waiting on a bulk pack of screws for the servo.

oldschoolsdime9,
hehe it's okay. i do they same type of things. but i am a nitro noob to be had. i do want nitro, but i promised myself i would buy a house first! interested in what you guys think of the pics  was toying with the idea of going with 2 rooster esc's.....but i think i am good with the evx for now.....

have good weekend all

-peter-


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## oldschoolsdime9 (Feb 19, 2006)

looks like shes going to be almost bullet proof, and im glad you when with RPM stuff instead of that aluminum bendy crap!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Peter, I'm glad I looked at your pics....... You have the old style motors in it (I can tell by the endbell) which are 23 turn motors, the new style are 21 turn motors & do make a difference. Here's a pic of my son's E-Maxx.... see the larger vents in the endbells?


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## oldschoolsdime9 (Feb 19, 2006)

so is there anything we can do to make these things feel alittle more, oh whats the word im looking for.. stable? Ive got my stearing at the mercy of a futaba 59315, which will just about pull the front wheels out front under it(192 oz of torqe) does somone make a sway bar kit or anything?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Lay the shocks down and use heavier oil. Try 60wt in front and 40 in rear to start. Then if it still feels unstable lay the shocks down. If it still needs more up the weights by 10 and try again........
I ran 80wt in front and 60wt in the rear with good luck.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

tom,

thanks for the heads up on the motors. i picked upa pair today. but the header card on the bag still had the old part number and read 23t on it.

we will see  

i finished rebuilding the E last night. well to a point. without that stupid 2.6x8mm screw i cant install a new servo saver to run it. as it sits with the 66/19 gearign combo and the new batts, it well sounds nice 

hoping ot get the truck well done this week and a new body painted. we are heading to the eastside of the state for a soft ball tourney and i want the tlt and e to go.


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## Mactrash (Jun 5, 2006)

Hi all!

I need some help converting a t-maxx in a e-maxx. Do you guys think it is possible? If I buy a electric motor and batteries, could I use the old parts like chassis, shift box, etc?

tks! (and sorry my poor english)


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Peter, Yeah it's weird, they didn't change the part number but they did change the motor. It was really hard finding the new motors at the LHS when the part numbers were the same and they wanted to sell the older stock 1st! Basically all Traxxas did was put the motors out of their Villan boat in the E-Maxx. Kinda made sense really, now instead of carrying 2 motors they only have 1 for both.

Mactrash - the conversion can be done, but most people just replace the stock transmission with an E-Maxx transmission, it's much easier than trying to Fabricate a motor mount to run the stock transmission. The whole rest of the truck could be used with no problem (or at least little to no problem!).


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well i nstalled the motors and fires them up for fun. they seem to spool up a lot faster then the motors i had. but still no new servo screw...thansk for th einfo on the new style motors


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i have a dumb Maxx Q?. so how stupid would it be to run a basher E-maxx- with no bumpers? i want to slam the body low and bumpers would be in the middle of the grill.... i thought about turnig the bumper upside down. but i didnt liek how low th ebumpers would have been..


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Mine works great without bumpers, I kept the skidplates and it actually make the bulkhead braces better stiffer.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Like guver says, you can run it without bumpers if you want. But the bumpers do serve a purpose and take some of the abuse away from the chassis.

One consideration to make before you slam the body too much, airflow. The lower you slam it the less cooling air there will be for the ESC, motors, and batteries. All 3 generate heat and the less space under the shell you have the hotter it will get & you'll get the ESC thermalling on you.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

yeah i see your point(S) tom.....maybe i will notch the body and leave it up....but was thinking of making my stick packs into side by side packsa dn mount them under the chassis...

guver, do you have pics of your truck anywere?

i want it to look cool and function well. 

thanks for your words of wisdom guys 

-peter-


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## mellofello (Jun 13, 2006)

*batteries*

I 've had my e-maxx about a month now and it has been a blast everytime I take it out. I only have one set of team orion heavy duty 3000nimh. Charging them with duratrax IntelliPeak Twin Pulse Charger. I was looking to get another set and was wondering if someone could recommend me to a decent battery with longer run times. Right now I'm probably getting 15mins. Should I stick with the team orions? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

There are alot of quality matchers out there & it's not necessary to stick with Orion (although they are good), just know you'll get the most power and runtime using matched batteries (you didn't say if the Orions you are using are matched or not). Check with you LHS for what they have, 3000's are older cells now, you need to look at 3800's or so. Check online with places like Pro-Match and one of the fine sponsors of this site. Not knowing what your budget will allow, you'll need to shop around a little.


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## DaWrench (Sep 26, 2001)

Hi Tom:

I was wondering if you have gone brushless on your E Maxx. me son seems to have found a stunt that takes out speedos (a really cool front roll) so I have about 4 of the kit ones sitting in my basement. I'm beginning to suspect the stock motors sooooo I am thinking about a brushless setup. since none of the tracks around here race E Maxxes anymore (really suck cuase it was fun and I actually did fairly good at it) so I guess bashing will be all I'll be doing (or chasing the newest dog in our sub).
anyway thanks for your time and help

Tim


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I personally have not gone brushless yet becuase the class thet I race in requires stock Titans and 12 cells as the only rule for the class.

I do know a couple guys that have put the brushless systems in thiers though & say they are the best thing since sliced bread. 1 guy put the Novak HV-Maxx in his and the other uses a Hacker system. They are fast and offer more run time than the stock set up, but I cant speak for reliability. I was talking to the guy that had the Novak system in his last weekend and he said he burned out the ESC on it, but I didn't get any details on how it happened.

I really can't see front rolls being the cause of EVX ESC failure, but stranger things can happen. Have you tried the Novak branded ESC for 14.4v applications? It's supposed to handle things a little better than the EVX.

If you got 4 EVX's sitting, I would send them in to Traxxas and they will repair (replace) them for $20 each, You could then turn around and sell them for $60 each minimum and use the proceeds to invest in brushless or the Novak unit.


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

I don't have any pics, Ron. Mine looks the same as any stock truck (with a pack hanging underneath)

Tom, I like that rule (keeps it fair and cheap maybe) If it requires stock titans and 12 cells then how about 3 stock titans? haha


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i was over at RCMT the other day looking and it seems the HV maxx requires a ton of alloy drive train parts, mip cvds, all alloy gears and diff cases becouse of the insane torque it has. 

i have been looking some what into Bl for the e-maxx cous of my smaller Bl RCs. but thinking it might not be the way to go.


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## DaWrench (Sep 26, 2001)

Tom:

Hi,

I've thought about going to two speedos (like the gt7's or cyclones) and a fan to help keep them cool. I hardly ever use reverse. (all those years of racing 1/12 scale....and now sedans). 
I'll check out the other Novak speedo. 

Thanks

Tim


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## kvrc (May 1, 2004)

dawrench...i race with tom in the winter and i also have a novak brushless that i use in my revolt in the summer. i recently thermaled my motor one too many times in a row doing some testing with my 8000 lipos. all i can say is the novak system is considered a mild brushless system but it puts out all the power i will ever want. it has great drivability and tons of torque. just gear it at 13 or 14 pinion and 70 spur and it will rip. it was my fault my system failed as i didnt let the motor cool off enough after thermalling. i am now in the prosses of figuring out how i want to mount a fan on the motor heatsink. it already comes with a fan for the esc.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Gary - Oh it was your motor & not the ESC, my bad. 
DaWrench - Going with 2 speedos is OK in therory, but doesn't work in real life. 2 reasons as follows:

#1 - 2 esc's with the stock Titans, 6 (or7) cells per motor. Not enough voltage to get performance out of the titans, they need 14.4 volts. Running 12 cells per ESC will get the voltage there, but then the weight of 24 cells would be a problem.

#2 - 2 ESC's with 540 motors (regular size) with 6 cells each, gives so-so performance, but the amp draw it takes to get the truck moving will cause alot of wear on the motors & they just don't last.

Peter - Your starting to understand whay I preferred to stick with the Stock titans! works out much cheaper! I'm sure the beefier drivetrains of my Revo conversion & the newer E-Maxx with the Revo shafts would hold up better but I'm still not ready to invest in a Brushless system I can't race.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i wish i had a place to try and race my E. i think that is a style of racing i could love. i have been a no show to our local micro and mini races. sometime the kids's sports are in the way. but most of the time it's the basher in me wont let me go indoors to run!

still trying to see what kind of deal i can score on some big bores at the lhs. i do have rpm 2stage pistons on order though! 

what shocks does everyone else run?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I ran the stock shocks for the most part. But I did have the Duratrax shocks on my old maxx that were Losi shocks with the threaded bodies. Very nice.


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## patcollins (Sep 29, 2001)

YAY I just got an E-Maxx!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

pat welcome to the emaxx clud 


well one set of my rpm 2 stage shock pistons came in yesterday  think i may run the heavy up front and mediums in the rear. not going to be able to get the big bores i want any time soon. 

my E has been sitting unsed since my last post. want to paint my new body fr it before i run it again. i should have time to mask it this next week. working on my 10th scale drifter's body early next week and tryong to finish my lith-ion, coreless powered micro speed runner now.


have a great weekend all.

-peter-


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Congrats on the E-Maxx Pat, Have fun with it!


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

Hey guys I am wondering if anybody has an older stlyel E-maxx Nonwdie version they want to trade or sell off I need one as stock as possible and doesn't even need to be rtr I would preffer a roller no Elec at all Meaning the cheaper the better 
I am also looking for a Stock T-maxx older nonwide version too 
The reason is I have a couple newbies taht want one and I have Lots of parts for the older style 
LMK and Thanks


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## mellofello (Jun 13, 2006)

*Batteries*

Battery question again. I am looking into these smc ib4200 6-cells for my e-maxx and was wondering if these would be a good choice. Also, what does the "ib" mean? Thanks.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

The IB-4200 would definnetly be a great choice for your e-max, probably the best bang for your buck.
Pro-Match has them with deans pigtails "assembled" for $45.00 :thumbsup: 

IB is just an abbreviation of Intellect Battery Co.

Intellect has by far set the standard in the RC market vs. co. like GP.

GP's 4300 cell is just a marketing number as the cell rating is 4100 mah  

Off this subject ,-----And I'm sure I missed this somewhere in this forum ,
Whats the difference between the large end vent hole motor and the small one ?? Is there any wind or performance difference.

Thanks for the feedback

R. S.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

I stand corrected , IB stands for Intellect Brothers.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

We mostly play around the yard with our E-max's but one thing that really helps the handling is to put both batteries on the left side.

Leave left side battery in original tray and mount other battery below that battery under chassis .

Make a couple slots in the chassis plate about an 1/8 inch by 1/2 inch so you can fit strapping tape around the bottom pack " below chassis" and wrap a few times.
I usually back it up with a nylon tie or two and havn't had any problems.

We usually tear around the yard in a left hand oval course so this makes them alot more stable and vertually eliminates roll over.


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## mellofello (Jun 13, 2006)

I'm goin for it! Thanks for the feedback NCFRC!!! :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Large vent motors are the newer style & there is a performance difference. The large vent motors I believe are 21 turn and the small vents are 23 turn.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

Where do I find the 21 turn motors as all the parts places list the replacement motor # 3975 as a 23 turn ??

Thanks for your feedback


R.S.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I know its a pain since they didn't actually change the part number with the motor change. I went thru a whole bunch of trouble thru my LHS getting the new style because distributors were all stocked with the old style.

1 way around it is to order the Villan EX boat motors, Same motor now. Thats all Traxxas did was put the boat motors in the E-Maxx.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

Traxxas claims the E-max motors are still 23 turn , the stampede uses a 21 turn but can't handle 14 volts.

Maybe the new large vent hole motors have more timing ???

THanks for the feedback

I'll just order the boat motors as I don't need the leads anyway.

Solder the wires direct and forget the connectors.

R. S.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i have soem of the newer titans and they do seem to be a nicer motor then the older small vent hole ones. i dont think there less turns but have a stronger magnetic rin on the outside of the can and they cool faster then older titans. 


well a E update for me. i have painted my c-10 chevy body and put all the stickers on it i am going to use. i just need to ream it and i will throw up some pics. well i wil do it once i am done trying to fix our dishwasher 

later all

-peter-


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

ronbeck said:


> i just need to ream it and i will throw up.......


I found this oddly funny...... and if taken out of context, Very strange....



ronbeck said:


> well i wil do it once i am done trying to fix our dishwasher


When you get your dishwasher fixed, will you fix mine too? I think it just needs a new inlet valve......


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well to be honest tom after i finish mine i dont think i will ever work on another dishwasher again! mine has needed a copper hose with new fittings(not standard had to go to a plumbing repair place to find it), a O-ring for the pump motor (leaked all over), and last and hopefully least i ordered a new door seal for it yesterday. should get it this afternoon..  man am i tired of that thing!!! 

not sure if i will get to picks today no sunshine 

later


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

back to the E-max topic -------

Has anybody replaced the cheap plastic wheel hex adaptors with aluminum ones ?

Has anybody figured out how to balance the wheels ?


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

Just got a maxx this spring, and so far its a awsome truck. :dude: Did break the front arms tho, so i rpm'd it.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

NCFRC said:


> back to the E-max topic -------
> 
> Has anybody replaced the cheap plastic wheel hex adaptors with aluminum ones ?
> 
> Has anybody figured out how to balance the wheels ?


i use soem tamiya alloy clamping hexes for the TnX. i am looking for the link on tower. but any alloy hex for the Tnx, savage or durtrax warhead will work on the E.




general, the E looks like it's getting a lot of use . i am having esc issues with mine right now. cant get it to set up right


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

fav truck :dude: have a e-pede and t3, but dont run them much...wanting to sell/trade them off :thumbsup:


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

NCFRC said:


> back to the E-max topic -------
> 
> Has anybody replaced the cheap plastic wheel hex adaptors with aluminum ones ?
> 
> Has anybody figured out how to balance the wheels ?


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVK5&P=7
some hot bodies hexes. about $6 cheaper then the tamiya ones.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

Thanks ,

I 'll order those instead.

R.S.


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## DaWrench (Sep 26, 2001)

Tom:

Hi,

I was wondering if you have done a ReVolt conversion yet??? I have heard about them I'm thinking about doing one as EMaxx's are popping up at a track about 40 miles from my house. most have U.E. chassis and other bits on them so...... before I break mine out again I'm thinking about a change. 

Thanks for you time

Tim


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Actually, yes, I have. Somewhere in the history of this thread around November/December 2005 I probably have a post with some pics of it. It's not a hard conversionbut there are a few little tricks to do, If you have any questions just ask!


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

did anybody do two hv-maxx brushless sets yet? I was told all i have to do is run 4 packs, y-connect the esc leads an just remove one red lead, does anybody know if this is correct or not? tired of being so slow in top end wish i could show it off, dont know how to post snapshots yet


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

*new info....*

talked to traxxas, and there working on a adaptor so we can run 1 bat pack instead of 2.....:dude:

in other news found im liking the maxx more and more...


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

talked to novak myself they said to just hook all up like normal just put y connecter on the leads to speed controllers from reciever and remove one on/off switch, can run on two packs but will have real short run time.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Maxx slow in top end.... 2nd gear? How fast do you need it to go? Ever hear of terminal velocity? With the big tires these trucks have, there comes a point that the truck would become uncontrollable. Lose control of a 11-15lb truck at 50+mph and the results will not be pretty.......


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not that there's anything wrong with going fast, just let me get out of the way!


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

if i cant pass a nitro to me its slow. i guess i am spoiled, i have a ft tc4 with a 5.5 velocity with a gtb it does 96 (clocked by a wentzville police officer) with all aluminum suspension from goodsgood on ebay.the extra weight helps to keep it well planted. i race on asphalt street, the only thing i cant stand is big debris on road like single grain of sand. NOT JOKING!!!!!!! yes i know sounds funny till you break an aluminum a-arm.but thats why i got a truck, and i know i can make it fast too. just tired of melting motors. and does anybody know a better way then those stupid drive cup pins,i keep shearing them in the cups,at least their easy to get out after they break, if anybody was wondering the fastlanemachine 31mm strrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeaaaaaach chassis is awesome so are their bulkheads, shock towers,and best of all the aluminum transmission case. put steel gears in it to. going to buy the hybrid bulks soon,they use 1/8 scale diffs. the pins i am talking are the allen with thread to a thin shank that passes through either the diff input shaft and or the diff output shafts or the trans output shafts that threads into the cups. i hope that that made sense. thank you.


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

oh and by the way the motors i melt ar the hv4400s. if you go into thermal lock to many times the thermal lock will stop working, and the motor will cook till it melts internally "novak does not cover such breakage under warrenty" checked. and if wondering i run a 14 tooth pinion with a 70 tooth spur and intellect 3800 6 cell packs,which comes to a grand total of 28 mph, advertised 39 mph, but that is with stock gearing, which you can not run due to the overheating problem they have created with their product! isn't that special! just showing my age there. check the addendium " can't remember how to spell that"


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

oh and if any body out there has integy shocks, ofna makes an o-ring that is a little thicker than the ones they give you to use in the kit. use just one stock o-ring and one ofna o-ring in the bottom and they will never leak again.


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## Minreg (Jan 1, 1970)

Think I want to get rid of my t-maxx and get an e-maxx. I guess it cant be converted to electric. I already have the maxx speed control.

What should I look for if buying used?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Tow Jockey - You've been shearing the pins before twisting the shafts in two? that is very odd. I have yet to shear a pin, but I have twisted may shafts & u-joints in half. Only advice I would have for that atr MIP CVD's or UE Supermaxx shafts.

Minreg - You can convert a T-Maxx, you just need a complete E-Maxx tranny, battery holders and maybe 1 center shaft. It will need a little dremel & drilling on the chassis is all. There are some that prefer the converted T-Maxx chassis over the E-Maxx. Or if you check E-bay you can find the chassis, Transmission, & center shafts fairly cheap to make the conversion even easier. But... getting a whole E-Maxx is a viable option as well. As for what to look for..... well, that's up to you, its no different than any other truck, just make sure you have good pics to look at for your decision making.


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## Minreg (Jan 1, 1970)

Is there a downside to using the t-maxx chassis and just adding the e-maxx tranny? Im happy with the amount of hop ups currently on it so if the conversion will work for me it would be good. Do all the e-maxx trannys have reverse?


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

let me clarify, i have steel cvds front and rear by dynamite, the front drive shaft is a mip cvd, the rear is a steel dog-bone that comes with the FASTLANEMACHINE.COM 31mm strech chassis. i am running all steel gears in the trans, and aluminum cups in the diffs. the diff,trans cases are both aluminum. hv maxx brushless with trinity heat sink motor plate. i have aluminum hex adapters (stock blue by traxxas) and i break the cross pins in those also. i am not a beat your truck kind of guy either, i still have the stock a-arms and steering blocks i have not broke a single part nor wore any thing out yet. exept the first hv maxx motor i got i melted from the thermal lock seizing on me in the run pos.i bought the truck on 5/23/06, oh and i have a neat trick for everyone used stock shock upper screws in the steering rack to bell cranks joint and put lock nuts on them.works on plastic and aluminum cranks. powerline cranks work awesome could use a darker shade of blue though they are that trinity powder blue at least you cant see them. if any body knows how to use the t-maxx trans in the e-maxx i would love to know how, i want an automatic trans in an electric truck for my kid so he wont smoke motors brush or brushless.


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

minreg you dont need reverse on the tranny in an electric truck when you use reverse the motor runs backwards not like a gas motor which only turns one way.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Minreg - Yeah, reverse is thru the ESC, not the trans. & no, I really don't see a huge downside to using the T-Maxx chassis and converting.

Tow Jockey - Oh I see now, you've bomb proofed the drive train enough to find the next weakest link. On my MIP CVD's I had on my old maxx the drive cup had 2 large set screws the basically clamped into the thru hole in the output shaft. Much beefier than the pin system. But beware, once you bombproof that, the next weakest link may be the output shaft itself! I'd much rather replace a pin than tear into it and replace an output shaft!


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

i have the mip drive shaft on the front. i kinda dont like the twin allens, but if i have to i guess i dont have much choice.do the mip outdrives mount the same way? i guess i would like them better if there was some kind of nub or something on the tip of those allens to fit into the holes on the out puts on the trans. what can i get a drive shaft out of to put in the rear that is 35mm longer than stock for the fastlane 35mm strech chassis that i am running. it hav a dog bone right now.


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

minreg i would at least get a stock e-maxx chassis all of the other parts are the same, like bulkheads, ladder bars, diffs, the only real differance is the trans, motor mount, front drive shaft, and servo mounting locations. "as far as i know"


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

oh and i am correcting all previous statements about the fastlane chassis it is 35mm longer than stock, and it is all to the rear, none to the front so all the factory linkages still work. the only thing is if you run the hvmaxx brushless it streches the sensor leed a little tight.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well small update from today. i was asked to help doa demo at a charity race. so i brought a coulpe of micro/minis and the emaxx. boy did it get a lot of attention. many a jumps with hard landings. and nothign but a scratched up lid to show for it. 

rebuild the shocks after i got home. i used the rpm medium 2stage pistons and 50wt oil. i iek the way the truck handles now. mush more sure foooted, and it response much quicker. i also went back to a 18t tooth pinion set up. i thinkt he 19ts i was running was high for my truck. i had short run times and a bunch of heat.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

Breaking in e-max brushes ?????????


I just bought a pair of traxxas marine 550 motors for my son's e-max because he had a pair of the old small vent hole motors.

But ,,, after installing these in his truck and running it against mine , his was SLOWER -------I kind of suspected the problem and after looking at the brush contact on the comm ,very little brush area was seated or making contact.

Has anyone found a way to seat these motor brushs as they seem extremely hard as even my e-max with some time on it is still far from being properly seated.

Even a partially seated motor was night and day difference in speed.

At this rate ,the brushes would last a life time.

Trivia , buy the traxxas motor heat sink wraps , $4-5 thru tower each but what a difference, well worth the difference.

Thanks 

R.S.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You could try low voltage water dipping to get the brushes seated better.


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## NCFRC (Aug 4, 2005)

Somewhere earlier it was stated that the HPI hubs would fit the E-max , well I bought a set and they might fit over the axle but the HPI truck has a step down axle and they fit poorly .
I don't know if the hex's are supposed to be the same size ??? but fit very loose in the wheel and measure about .015 smaller than the stock plastic ones. I havn't bought any traxxas ones yet but these deffinitly DO NOT work well at all.

Thought I'd let everyone know to save the agravation I experienced.

R.S.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Thanks. Never tried it, but now I know.


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## mellofello (Jun 13, 2006)

*hv novak brushless*

Thinking about purchasing a brushless motor and was wondering what parts I should upgrade. I have a full set of cvds on order. Will the transmission hold up? Thanks for any info.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Weakest link in the trans in the Idler gear. There are steel ones available, not a bad investment


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Weakest link in the trans in the Idler gear. There are steel ones available, not a bad investment


Tom,

You talking about the Traxxas hop-up for the idler gears?

PD2


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Nope. Supermaxx makes them and another company.


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

Your going to need a metal spur gear,cvds,center cvds,you will proble blow your diffs before the tranny but the tranny will go to :thumbsup:


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Nope. Supermaxx makes them and another company.


Do you have a link to them? Just wondering.

I have an E-Maxx on the way right now and I'm looking for these things on the truck that will be "weak points". I don't want to trick the truck out with tons of bling - just replace the parts that are common wear points or issues to harden the truck for bashing around. So any suggestions for that would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks!
PD2:thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Sure!

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13407.html

I heard there was another place doing them, but never caught the name of the company


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Sure!
> 
> http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13407.html
> 
> I heard there was another place doing them, but never caught the name of the company


AH! UE! I remember using them for my old OFNA Dominator Hybrid! Cool! So any other suggestions on "hardening" or making the E-Maxx stronger for just pure bashing fun? I don't want to get parts that make no sense - just those that help the weak parts.

Thanks again for the post!
PD2:thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well, as the saying goes..... "you can bullet proof 1 part, but then the next weakest link will fail" so... There could be a long list. The way I do it is run stock unitl it breaks, then fix it & upgrade depending on what I was doing when it broke (was it my fault for being stupid?). This is because I have driven a stock vehicle hard and not ever broken a part that others seem to break almost every run. It's driving style and control, Your driving style may be much easier on a particular part than someone elses.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Well, as the saying goes..... "you can bullet proof 1 part, but then the next weakest link will fail" so... There could be a long list. The way I do it is run stock unitl it breaks, then fix it & upgrade depending on what I was doing when it broke (was it my fault for being stupid?). This is because I have driven a stock vehicle hard and not ever broken a part that others seem to break almost every run. It's driving style and control, Your driving style may be much easier on a particular part than someone elses.


That's very true Tom - I had initially thought of the exact same thing, so I guess I better stick to that, rather than rip through some unnecessary cash right now. Thinks for reminding me of the golden rule of upgrades. ;-)

I'll post up when the truck comes in and let you know how things go with my first real basher!
PD2:thumbsup:


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## suave64 (Aug 9, 2006)

Anyone heard of a new version of the E-maxx? I am waiting to see if one is coming. I am assuming since the stampede and rustler were upgraded, they will do the same to the E-maxx. Thanks for any hear-say.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

suave64 said:


> Anyone heard of a new version of the E-maxx? I am waiting to see if one is coming. I am assuming since the stampede and rustler were upgraded, they will do the same to the E-maxx. Thanks for any hear-say.


Actually, I e-mailed Traxxas sales about this about a week or two ago. As usual, they are pretty tight lipped about it and really could not tell me if a new verison of the E-Maxx was coming out or not. The only thing they did tell was to continue watching the website and that would be the best way for me to know if and when a new E-Maxx would be released. So I was like, OH, and I replied to him and said, well, if I read between the lines that means you will have a new one released but you cannot tell me when, hence why I need to keep watching the web site, right? He just laughed in response and said I give everyone that response when looking for anything new regardless of whether we are working on something or not. So who knows what they will do, but I have to agree, that is the last vehicle they have yet to "refresh" in their current product line.

I did see on the forum where several people have started a petition to get them to work on a 1/18th scale version of either the Rustler, Stampede or E-Maxx. That maybe something at the top of their list. Who knows?

Aside from all of that, I saw in the latest RC Car Action magazine that they have a kit from Gorilla Maxx that converts a Revo into a brushless Revo. Interesting, but VERY expensive! Just to give you an idea, the Gorilla chassis alone is $289! They have a complete list of the gear they used to convert the truck in the magazine.

PD2:thumbsup:


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

here is a site i found today with some e-maxx parts and electric revos 
kershawdesigns.com if your going to run brushless get cvds and the metal spur gear they will break as soon has you hit the go go button :thumbsup:


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

Has anybody did a 4 wheel sterring on the Emaxx and if so How did you control it 
I am very interested in the control part I have a buddy that has the servo mounted and did the y harness but wants to use the shift switch to control rear steer 
Any input is greatly appreciatted


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

on the rear steer you can go to unlimited engineering, they list a rear steer kit that is UN-available, but it might give you some ideas. as far as steering goes you can y-connect, or you can use the third channel "shift channel", their is a conversion kit to put a stick you can operate with your thumb. i think it is at super-maxx.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

3rd channel mixing on the right radio.


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

radrc.com sells the rear steer kit"servo,mount,linkage,electronic perportion module". and thecrawlerstore.com sells the third channel adapter kit to turn the rocker switch "shift switch" to an anolog thumb steer stick. down side with stick kit is you cant shift on the fly anymore. but with the radrc you can do it with out converting your tq3 radio. but with that you cant crab the truck."drive sideways only tight turn"


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

Or you can go to radio shack and get a 3 postion tago swich and put it in thats what i did with my rockcrawler works great


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

Well, since i posted last, ive gotten rid of the t-maxx in favor of a e-maxx. Not content with just a offroad, went and picked up a 2nd for onroad fun. this one is a roller, but almost finished. :dude: got a few pics for u alll to check out.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I dunno.... those tires in the 2nd pic look like they are awfully worn..... Or are those drift tires? :lol:


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

:jest: good one. Well ,heres up dated pics and theme.

Theme: ALL AMERICAN MUSCLE
colors: red white and blue!  
body: 65 stang made by either parma or bolink(dont know)
wheels: sport maxx done in red and trimmed in blue
front and rear bumpers will be in red.
Powered by stock motors,stock gearring.
batts: TO2400's
front skid is aluminum, may go RPM tho. 
tires: duratrax street meat

truck and tires are both used, got great deals on them.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

*damage report:*

...this just in, running my maxx yesterday and broke the rear bulkheads ..so just swapped out parts to the project maxx, so now i need:

rear bulkheads
body posts
evx 

glad i got the 2nd maxx :wave:


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

Here's my e-maxx FREAKZILLA


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

got any larger pics


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

heres a pic of my maxx twins


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

Here you go these should be bigger


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

try these http://photobucket.com/albums/d18/whalebone/


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

i have the same wheels as you, but done mine in red and blue.:dude:


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

well, got a peice of wire wrapped in the rear today,popping 2 shock caps. damn wire!


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

I broke the end off my cvd saturday these things are starting to cost alot lol :thumbsup:


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

true. got around 500 in mine so far and havent really drove it that hard. my pede was tougher then this truck is.


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

I have about 900$ in my truck its pretty built proof right now.But i jump it pretty hard cleared 45 feet last week with it.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

damn!  i like climbing on the local salt storage area. Since theres a HUGE pile of gravel out back, its there i have my fun.  also enjoy the 2 speed feature on it.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

Well, going to get maxx2 running soon... YES, cant wait.:dude:


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

Well righ t now I have 2 E-maxxes. One is almost a bone stock old school E, and a newer 2.5 wide maxx E. All the nice hop ups have been, or will be added to the 2.5E. mTronics esc, mip Center CVDs, rpm a-arms, bearings and carriers, bulk head braces, wear plates, 2 stage pistons, shock towers, wide maxx claw rims with masher 2k tires. 

The old school E is going up for sale Almost RTR, needs radio gear. and the Wide E is a keeper(for now). What I love about the E is it's size, but for were I have to run it's biggest down size is it's size as well.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

i have 2 E's also, one becoming my "ROAD MAXX" and the other is "everywhere maxx"


i have the old motors in maxx 2, should i:
run em til deth
chenge over to newer version


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

general pedestr said:


> i have the old motors in maxx 2, should i:
> run em til deth
> chenge over to newer version


Both! Run'em till they die, but be ready to throw a new pair in when you want some nice "woo-HOO!" power.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

:dude: cool.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

*so far,so good...*

well, got my bulks in, and now have 2 maxx's.
1 offroad has crystals
1 onroad has crystals
now to find a evx 

heres a pic of "MAXX STANG":


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

Keep up the good work guys i hit 52mph today with my maxx and jumped 48 feet.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

Well here are my updated E-maxx pics: http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=167 
I have yet to run the rebuild E. But hopefull this weekend.


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## jrdrgaer747 (Nov 12, 2006)

Im thinking of getting one. How long dose it last with moderate driving?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

What exactly do you mean "How long does it last?" ? I mean, if you can drive and not run into stuff alot/hard it will last a very long time. It will last a long time regardless, but you'd be buying replacement parts more often if you run into things of do extreme things like massive air jumping and stuff.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

what batteries would be a decent ($25-40 range) upgrade from RS 3300 packs


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

You can Got to Pro-Match, http://www.promatchracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=IB4200ST

Or try www.cheapbatterypacks.com


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

anyone seen this yet?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXPNK4&P=7


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

general pedestr said:


> anyone seen this yet?
> 
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXPNK4&P=7


Link is not working GP......

PD2:thumbsup:


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000385672&I=LXPNK0&P=K
AND
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000385672&I=LXPNK4&P=K


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## cjtamu (Mar 26, 2002)

No, but me likey. And it even has the CVD boots on it already, suweet! But the CVD axles say Revo/T-maxx, which I think means 3.3 T-maxx. If that's the case, I don't think it will work the stock E-maxx. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.


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## medicineman (Aug 10, 2006)

I just got me son a pretty much stock e and he says it's slow compared to his T-Maxx. He's running duel gp-3300s and the stock motors. Hows the best way to start maxing this thing out. Somebody posted that they hit 58 mph, running what motors and ESC.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

A Stock E? Was it used or new? If used, the motors are probably tired and need to be replaced. Titans noticeably lose performance once worn good. Is the ESC set up properly? Is he using 2nd gear?

My Suggestion is to replace the motors & re-set the esc.

The truck won't be as fast as a T-Maxx in top end, but will be faster "out of the hole" from a dead stop & have alot more torque. If you want it to be as fast, you'll need to go brushless. Either a Novak HV maxx or a Hacker system, then you'd still have the torque but the top end too.


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## rc10t4oval (Jul 21, 2006)

*finnally got one!!!!!!*



general pedestr said:


> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000385672&I=LXPNK0&P=K
> AND
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000385672&I=LXPNK4&P=K


 thanks for the tip on driveshafts GP i take it these are what i need to go brushless with my e-maxx? I'm looking for the best steering servo for quicker steering any suggestions? anyone?

oops, i probably should have introduced myself first, i am the proud new owner of a used e-maxx i got it for $200.00 from a fellow racer. i always wanted one and am so happy to finally have one. i like the fact that it seems like it could drive on any surface and go anywhere. it has a very powerful feel too it . i just cant get over how much fun it is and is going too be.
I also like the fact that there are so many others that feel the same way
i think I,m going to have too change my user name to something with e-maxx in it I enjoy it so much more than my associated T4


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

If you can afford it a JR z9000t is the way to go! Otherwise, Hitec has some nice units for a budget racers. Just get something with at least 150oz (higher the better) of torque with a transit speed of .18 or better. Also, the pro-line steering kit mod helps alot too.

Welcome to the E-Maxx world!


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## rc10t4oval (Jul 21, 2006)

thanks i'll check that one out


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> If you can afford it a JR z9000t is the way to go! Otherwise, Hitec has some nice units for a budget racers. Just get something with at least 150oz (higher the better) of torque with a transit speed of .18 or better. Also, the pro-line steering kit mod helps alot too.
> 
> Welcome to the E-Maxx world!


Tom,

Silly question, but what is the pro-line steering kit mod? I have not heard about that one. Would definitely be interested in hearing about it.

Thanks!
PD2:thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I call it a "mod" because the Pro-Line kit is made for the T-Maxx, but can easily be installed on the E with a modification to the chassis. 

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=PRO601900

See the link for the part.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> I call it a "mod" because the Pro-Line kit is made for the T-Maxx, but can easily be installed on the E with a modification to the chassis.
> 
> https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=PRO601900
> 
> See the link for the part.


AH! Good to know! And we are sure that this will work with and fit the E-Maxx? Stormer went out of their way to say T-Maxx only there. Just making sure. Any mods that have to be done to make it work/fit? Just wondering!

Thanks for the link Tom!
PD2:thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

The E-Maxx chassis has a plastic post molded in for one of the bellcrank arms. The modification is to use a dremel & cut that post off flush (or close to flush) to the chassis. It's for "T-Maxx Only" because you have to modify a stock E-Maxx chassis. If you were to use an aftermarket chassis like gorilla or the Bombproof one it would bolt right in.

Ive installed the kit on 3 different E-Maxxes without a problem. Buy the kit, compare the parts and you'll see just what I mean.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> The E-Maxx chassis has a plastic post molded in for one of the bellcrank arms. The modification is to use a dremel & cut that post off flush (or close to flush) to the chassis. It's for "T-Maxx Only" because you have to modify a stock E-Maxx chassis. If you were to use an aftermarket chassis like gorilla or the Bombproof one it would bolt right in.
> 
> Ive installed the kit on 3 different E-Maxxes without a problem. Buy the kit, compare the parts and you'll see just what I mean.


Gotcha! Thanks for that helpful tip! And definitely appreciate the info on the steering upgrade and mod!

Thanks!
PD2:thumbsup:


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## cjtamu (Mar 26, 2002)

PD, just bring it over and I'll do it for you, LOL. You can check mine out. Why are you going to work on it anyway when you never even drive it? Ha ha ha ha ha. I just finished putting the Widemaxx suspension on mine, it is completely rebuilt, has the new '73 Bronco body on it and is ready to roll. If it ever stops raining call me and we'll go play.


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## BillH (Sep 26, 2005)

Hello all,
I just bought a used E-maxx. Does anyone lock the rear diff? Is there a down side? What is the best way to do it? I dont mind buying a spool.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP76&P=7

i have a traxxas rear spool in my E-maxx, you could always use JB weld in the stock one, but for the price of the spool I woudl just get the spool.


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## BillH (Sep 26, 2005)

You dont have problems braking other parts? I am not that hard on my stuff just want more traction off-road.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

If you run off road mostly I don't think the spool will couse any extra wear. My E-maxx has become a shelf queen since my bash buddy sold his E-maxx off to get back into micro onroad. So I re-installed the spool for the few times I have ran it in the last few months. But I run it hard when I do. 

I like a stock diff filled with OFna 150,000wt Diff lock. for more a of a limited slip action. But it does leak out after time. 

But my truck is all hoped up with all the RPM goodies, new grey TRX t-maxx 3.3 parts and newer maxx sliders. If I keep it longer i will go 3.3 sliders as well.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

There is plusses and minuses for running a spool in the back & it depends on exactly what it is you're doing with it as to if it will be a benefit or not. If you're actually racing it, it's not so good because it will tend to make the rear a little loose in the corners and cause a big "push" in the steering (wich can be compensated for in driving style). If you're just out bashing it is a plus because it will keep both rears turning regardless of the terrain you're running over.


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## BillH (Sep 26, 2005)

No racing for my maxx just lots of play


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Then a spool is the way to go.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

Since it is a used truck i would pick upa set or rear sliders just in case  and that is really the only part I see failign under the stress of spool, or a truck with no spool.

Tom,

Have you ever used the mTronics Truck ESCs? They are very nice.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Center shafts as well!

Ron, nope. I Haven't. But being waterproof I have looked at them. I didn't get one when I upgraded though, I went with the Novak HD unit & glad I did, it's much better than the EVX


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

The mTronics Fell Into my lap And i like it alot. The EVX I had in my old style E seems to have glitched out after I sold it back to the original owner.

But the mTronics is sooo much smooth on the throttle and brake! and run a lot coooler. I get 3-6 more minutes of time with changing out the ESC..
A link to pics of the truck: http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showpost.php?p=2453&postcount=2

And some snow fun 
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showpost.php?p=8153&postcount=4
http://www.ripper7racing.com/r7rforums/showpost.php?p=8154&postcount=5


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

No Reciever in the 1st set of pics?? 

Snow running is fun, but it's amazing how much snow will get stuck and wedged in the truck ain't it? Last time I did that I had to put the truck in the tub for a few hours as the snow melted. then the wife yelled at me because the resulting water was real dirty..... :lol:


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

The first set up pics is from when i took all the parts I liked off my old style E-maxx and transfered them onto the 2.5 wide maxx I got from a friend. So I sold my OLD style E to buy the 2.5 version from from my friend 

The first time running in the snow i got nothing under the body, was more Ice and heavy, heavy frost the last tiem I was amazed!

I let it sit in a plastic storage container over night with a shop towel under it. Fired it up and everything was good 

Tom you still running a Elec-Revo?


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## rockdog200 (Feb 3, 2007)

Ok I'm new to the E MAXX and I plan on racing it this summer. Any help in setting to up for racing and what parts I need to replace to make it more durable. I race TC on carpet so RC is not new to me but the E MAXX is a used one so I don't know much about it.

B


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## GMC24 (Jan 24, 2005)

I have an E-maxx , was thinking on putting a brushless in it just wonder what would be the pro and con s ?? Thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Yeah Ron, still running the EVO (as I call it). As a matter of fact I was out racing it yesterday & won the main!

Rockdog - the truck really needs nothing to race it, maybe some back up parts would be a good idea. The most common parts you'll need is center shafts, rear slider shafts, motors, and Idler gears. One nice upgrade is the Robinson Slipper unit. The rest you can upgrade and modify as you want, there are no "manditory" hop ups on the E-maxx. Sure there's some nice stuff to have, but none of it is essential. Some people may say "you gotta have this" or "you're dumb if you don't have that", but I raced pretty much stock E-Maxxes for quite a few years and never needed all that stuff.

GMC24 - Pro - It will be fast & lots of fun ~ Con - It will be fast & you may break more stuff.


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## GMC24 (Jan 24, 2005)

What would it invovle doing with going brushless ?? how hard will it be on the trans ? 
thanks


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Going brushless entails putting a brushless unit in it. You can run it stock that way, but just like in racing, there are some things you could do to make it more durable. The Brushless will bring more speed... More speed means increased probability of hitting stationary objects, and with greater force, thereby breaking more stuff. Depending on slipper adjustments the trans will be OK, but there are gears you can get to bullet proof that. There are enough Aftermarket parts out there that you can build an entire E-Maxx without using 1 single Traxxas part!


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## GMC24 (Jan 24, 2005)

Thanks , so what kinds of speed can you get from a brushless ??


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Speed is relative..... Depends on who you talk to as to how fast a truck can go. There have been claims of 60mph, but I have a hard time believing that. 35-40 maybe, Much faster and the truck would be hard to control due to balooning tires.

You'd be suprised how fast 30-35mph looks in a 1/10th size vehicle, it looks like 50+


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## kvrc (May 1, 2004)

in the summer i run a novak 6.5 brushless in my revolt. i use the e maxx trans and before i made the revolt i ran it in my e maxx. for the trans i would recomend only using 2nd gear and get a steel idler gear. i have been running the same steel idler gear for 2 years now approx 200+ runs and it still looks like new and dosent wear out the other gears in the trans. you should also upgrade the drive axles and trans output shafts. i converted my e maxx over to revo axles and it worked great. it isnt a direct swap but it isnt super hard either. 
as for speed, the 6.5 system is a mild brushless system but it has all the power i will ever need for racing. i now have a radar gun and when the weather breaks i can get some speeds. i clocked my titan powered revolt with 6 cells and 19 / 66 gearing at 28 mph. i would guess it will go about 35 with the 6.5 system geared for racing.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

well, just gave away my spare maxx roller...to my gf's brother. now dad and son can bash together.


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## GMC24 (Jan 24, 2005)

Thanks , on the infor have the 2 stock and 2 mods motors , trying to decide if want to go brushless or not ?


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

:wave: has anyone tried this yet:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemid=269670


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

general pedestr said:


> :wave: has anyone tried this yet:
> http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemid=269670


That's really interesting......wonder how much better it is vs. going with a beefier servo?

Nice find!

PD2:thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Not to sound like an ass or anything, but.... WHY? Dual servos serve no purpose on the Maxxes. That's why most Revo's get converted to single Servo Steering. 

Get a decent torque servo, the Pro-Line steering kit, toss the lame stock servo saver & be done with it. Have a truck that steers great.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Not to sound like an ass or anything, but.... WHY? Dual servos serve no purpose on the Maxxes. That's why most Revo's get converted to single Servo Steering.
> [\QUOTE]
> 
> I did not know that - why do dual servos serve no purpose? Are they really not working together to turn and hold the truck? Just wondering as I really did not know this point.
> ...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Well... maybe I mis-spoke, I meant No purpose as in completely unnecessary. 

Why use 2 servos and have the added weight when for the cost of 2 decent servos to do the steering you can have 1 good servo at 1/2 the weight that will do the job excellently.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

tommckay said:


> Well... maybe I mis-spoke, I meant No purpose as in completely unnecessary.
> 
> Why use 2 servos and have the added weight when for the cost of 2 decent servos to do the steering you can have 1 good servo at 1/2 the weight that will do the job excellently.


Nah, I thought maybe you had figured out something like the two servos really do not work together when in this configuration. I agree with getting a single, good/strong servo to do the job, but was just wondering/curious as to if you had found something with any two servo steering setup that did not take advantage or full advantage of the two.

Coolio!

PD2:thumbsup:


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## E-maxx92 (Mar 21, 2007)

Does anyone want to trade an e-maxx for a ofna nitro buggy it's in great shape and the motor has had very little gas run through it?????


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## ETOWNE (Apr 16, 2006)

E-maxx92 said:


> Does anyone want to trade an e-maxx for a ofna nitro buggy it's in great shape and the motor has had very little gas run through it?????


No,but I have a nice roller ready for brushless for sale.Look at MY GALLERY for pics.IM for price


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## E-maxx92 (Mar 21, 2007)

Does anyone want to trade an E-maxx for a Mugen seiki Mst-1 that comes READY-TO-RUN with a bump start. This truck has been set up to race offraod stadium coarse. :thumbsup: :wave:


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## E-maxx92 (Mar 21, 2007)

I've got aluminum top and bottom front a-arms on my e-maxx. I also have the novak 4.5 brushless system in it. It is ripping fast. I haven't torn anything out of it yet. If any one wants to sell their e-maxx for a Mugen Seiki Mst-1 then let me know. I want to get one for racing only so I don't wear out my brushless.   :wave:


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## Rollback (Apr 11, 2007)

Does anyone know where I can get or does anyone have an aluminum chassis for an E-maxx that they would be willing to sell?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well guys you have been a ton of help, and fun to learn fun, but I sold my E-maxx lsat night.  


it is a great truck, but was just to big for were I have to run it. I would be willing ot get one later on. But thanks for the help.

-peter-


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## E-maxx92 (Mar 21, 2007)

does anyone have an e-maxx that they want to trade for something. I have 2 12th Scales, one rc12l4 and on rc12l3 that i am looking to get rid of. I also have a traxxas nitro sport i will also trade. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## TMAN73 (Apr 17, 2007)

Hey I was just wondering about the stock slipper? sound like it is to loose when I am in high gear any info would be appreciated I have only had mine for a few days thanks


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

A lot of them are too loose from the factory and should be tightened. If left to slip it will melt the spur gear in a hurry.


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

going back a little bit i run dual 9000t's in my e-maxx, my truck is all aluminum, with bead lock 40's. if it matters i have powerline steering cranks, i could not steer very well before g-force would over ride the servo saver "kimborough" so i figured two servo savers would help, and it HELPED so much, and my servos don't strain at all. the weight on my truck has never been much of a issue to me, wish i had stronger spider gears for the rear end though, they are the only thing i can break at will now.


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## tow jockey (Apr 28, 2006)

oh and a quick ps, i run steel diff balls for my slipper clutch, instead of pegs. i don't like anything to slip.


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## TMAN73 (Apr 17, 2007)

wow I tightend my slipper up and now I can hardly keep the front on the ground I can be rooling alredy and it will still pull the wheels up


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## E-to the Maxx (Jun 18, 2007)

ive had an e-maxx for a while and im wanting to upgrade my batteries. right now im running 3300 and looking at a set of 4500 on ebay. i was wondering how these batteries would work and if i would have to do anything to make them work. thanks the item # is 330137987217


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

do u change the spur to use diff ballz?? also, heres a pic of my latest body for my maxx.


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## E-to the Maxx (Jun 18, 2007)

i just got bigger tires for my e-maxx and keep breaking driveshafts, is there any stronger or titainum ones out there that work good and are dependable. thanks


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Your batts should work fine if they are stick pack 6 cells. Can't help with the shafts.


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## GMC24 (Jan 24, 2005)

what would be involve in going brushless in my EMaxx and who would make the system ??


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## OTR SPEEDWAY (Feb 12, 2007)

*Tower Hobbies*

Hey,

are you breaking the Trans to Diff Driveshafts or Diff to wheels??? I had trouble with my Trans to Diff shafts and replaced them with Traxxas Upgrade CVD's... They are like $35 bucks on TowerHobbies.com...

WORK GREAT.

Sean


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## enerpack (Aug 4, 2007)

*emaxx metal transmission gears*

im thinking of upgrading my transmission. i found some some new emaxx metal transmission gears on ebay. here is the link to the ones i found:

emaxx transmission gears on ebay 

has anyone tried these? they look great


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

They are good if you don't mind the added weight in rotating mass.


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## whalebone (Apr 8, 2005)

Ok guy's i know everyone on here has a badazz e-maxx but i keep ripping the teeth of the harden steel pin gear's what are you guy's using o by the way im using the 4.5 with the nickel rotor This seems to be a week link for me i'v broke everthing else all ready. And i use the sliper pad set up for the spur.


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

i dont have a BA maxx, mines bone stock. except for rpm skids and ft&rear arms. thats all ive done 2 it.


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## yunggun (Feb 28, 2008)

WHats up ? overall is the Emaxx a good truck out of the box. Some say its better then the E Savage. thoughts


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

Well, just picked up my 2nd E-MAXX, gonna turn it into a Sport-MAXX/S-MAXX type of truck.
2wd
raceing tires(ribbed front,bowtie back)
racing body(have that)
no reverse(easily done on the evx)
not sure what else


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

well, decided to use it for parts. now someone may buy it from me. dont know yet, but thinking about keeping it.


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## rookie99 (Apr 20, 2008)

hey jb, i got two emaxx's, one of them has a burned speed control and the other one i bought thursday and the first time that i ran the second one is today and a monster truck and tractor pull, well i was the only monster truck that showed up and so i signed up for the truck pull and surpisingly with having a stock truck emaxx i did pretty good, on top of that first time racing a truck in three years, granted there was me and one other guy but still i didnt tear anything up


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

Would any of you know if the newer style 16.8 trans case will fit in the earlier E Maxx chassis?....


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

No, it won't.


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

10 Q....


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## Butters16 (Dec 14, 2002)

Will the traxxas single motor plate part#3997x fit the older Emaxx. (narrow one) thanks , i want to go brushless in the emaxx .


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## Birdman11 (Apr 21, 2007)

I have 2 E maxx's cheap ,no electronics, send me a pm if interested

Mike C.


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## Butters16 (Dec 14, 2002)

since thatmotor plate don't fit the older Emaxx , does anyone know if someone makes i single motor mount for them


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

Butters16 said:


> since thatmotor plate don't fit the older Emaxx , does anyone know if someone makes i single motor mount for them


Instead of spending money, I'd just cut off the extra part, then use a dremel to smooth it off and trim it so it looks good....we used to do that with the extra piece on the old style RC10 motor mount....


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## huckthemaxx (Aug 15, 2008)

nothing like cutting and pasting on the old emaxx. thats half the fun!! I have had some problems running into things lately and keep breaking the front skid plate, last time i broke it i decided to keep driving it and ended up breaking pretty much everything on the front end, it was great fun!!
guess i should invest in some metal parts huh.


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

huckthemaxx said:


> nothing like cutting and pasting on the old emaxx. thats half the fun!! I have had some problems running into things lately and keep breaking the front skid plate, last time i broke it i decided to keep driving it and ended up breaking pretty much everything on the front end, it was great fun!!
> guess i should invest in some metal parts huh.



Yea....maybe....


The whole front of my E Maxx is aluminum....


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## huckthemaxx (Aug 15, 2008)

yeah ive been working on trying to upgrade the front to the newer emaxx with the wider stance, took me a long time to figure out those tie rods. I had to upgrade because my hobby shop stopped carrying the old ones. so now that i have that figured out i can go to the bigger aluminum ones, oooo!
hey here's a question, what batteries do you like the best, my old charger burnt up my current batteries so im gonna get some new ones. any suggestions?


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## daniel15fl (Feb 10, 2009)

hey everyone whats up, i just got a e-maxx from a friend of mine and it is like 6yrs old and want to upgrade the motors and batteries do u have ne suggestions?


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## Butters16 (Dec 14, 2002)

if you want no maintence on motor and battery , go brushless and lipo, otherwise the stock motors and 3300-4600 mah batteries would work great.


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

Actually I use 2 old 3300 race packs, and a couple of stock 27T motors in mine....the Venom mods I bought were junk.....I might see if I can take the useful pieces off the Venoms, and put them on the stock cans.....arms, bearings and such....


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

how do you guys have your motors wired?......so each gets thee full 14.4 volts, or in series so each only gets 7.2?.....Mine seem to get REALLY hot if I run them in parallel....


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## guver (Jul 31, 2002)

Most everyone uses them in parallel. If you are using 540 sized 27 turn motors then a series is a good option.


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## Airbus (Jan 18, 2009)

guver said:


> Most everyone uses them in parallel. If you are using 540 sized 27 turn motors then a series is a good option.


Ok....all I've done is a couple slow runs through the living room, and they seemed to get really hot.....so I'll give them a try in series and see if that's better....The 27t motors is just something to fool with till I can get some proper motors for it....


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## general pedestr (Dec 11, 2002)

my e-maxx (gen2)
























RPM:arms,bumpers,skids
integy:bulks
radio shack: batts
proline: body


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## 2pazr (Nov 6, 2009)

*i need a esc*

stock emaxx in need or esc any that will work.. twin motor 2 battery..


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## bad6 (Feb 7, 2006)

I have a Novak Hv 5.5 in my e-maxx and its very fast.Novak has them for 170$ its worth the money.I also run 2 2c lipos 40c in it.Its bad to the bone.


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## iwh1952 (Jul 15, 2009)

I run a novak GTB and 1 5.5 turn ballistic for racing powered by 2-5000 mah batts. My only prob. is the slipper as I've read others have. I'm in the process of trying to have a new style emax input shaft built for the older tranny. We'll see. As far as the motor plate, I just tape off the extra motor hole and run it.


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## iwh1952 (Jul 15, 2009)

The older emax eats up the friction pins so I'm trying to convert to slipper shoes used on the newer emax.


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## rcbeagle (Feb 16, 2007)

iwh1952 said:


> I run a novak GTB and 1 5.5 turn ballistic for racing powered by 2-5000 mah batts. My only prob. is the slipper as I've read others have. I'm in the process of trying to have a new style emax input shaft built for the older tranny. We'll see. As far as the motor plate, I just tape off the extra motor hole and run it.


Hey goto Gorillamaxx they have a single motor mount for $39.00


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## rcbeagle (Feb 16, 2007)

iwh1952 said:


> The older emax eats up the friction pins so I'm trying to convert to slipper shoes used on the newer emax.


goto Kershew Designs they have heavy duty slippers for $8.99


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## iwh1952 (Jul 15, 2009)

Apparently this thread is dead.


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## Promatchracer (Sep 28, 2001)

Wade stop over on my thread and LMK what all you might want to do 
We used to have our Emaxxs pretty beefed up 
As far as the pegs I will check with my buddy on making delrin ones 
Also as far as the single motor mount it isn't needed at all it is mostly for looks 
LMK


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## iwh1952 (Jul 15, 2009)

*emax slippers and mtr mt.*



rcbeagle said:


> Hey goto Gorillamaxx they have a single motor mount for $39.00


Thanks for the info rcbeagle, am in contact w/kershaw, this might work. I did't want to spend a ton of money to keep running.:thumbsup:


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## bashslash (Dec 19, 2009)

*my 1st emaxx*

hey guys i just got my first emaxx its an older one with a 2 speed trans. This truck is alot of fun i was wondering what upgrades you guys did to yours to make them stronger and what the weak spots are that i should be watching and upgrading so far im putting the newer esc thats water proof from traxxas in it and i bolted on a set of talons let me know what you guys are doing and if you up graded something and wish you didnt. thanks


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