# What do I need to build model kits



## JAT

Ron Gross said:


> Here's an idea to consider. I saw an elaborate build up one time that used the Chariot hatch as an access to all the contained electronics - complete with user switches and potentiometers. It seemed like that made more sense than what it was originally intended for!


Hi, Ron. I'm really a newbie not only to this site but really to modeling in general and I've been following these threads since discovering that they even existed way back about two months ago. A little late coming to the party. I'm finding a whole lot of very interesting ideas and information (as well as some unfortunate surliness, I guess...taking the good with the bad though), and I'm getting very excited about the various projects and ideas being proposed. I built some models as a kid, tanks, ships etc, but tended to view them as build it yourself toys- and then blew them up or set them afire, you know "battle damage". Now I'm seeing a whole new world opening up and I'm anxious to jump in. My question is, what am I going to need as far as tools and equipment to get me started? I like the idea of opening up hatches and making modifications, but how? Do I need to invest in a dremel tool? I don't imagine the old glues (that they warned us not to breath) are still adequate are they? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff


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## Ron Gross

JAT said:


> Hi, Ron. I'm really a newbie not only to this site but really to modeling in general and I've been following these threads since discovering that they even existed way back about two months ago. A little late coming to the party. I'm finding a whole lot of very interesting ideas and information (as well as some unfortunate surliness, I guess...taking the good with the bad though), and I'm getting very excited about the various projects and ideas being proposed. I built some models as a kid, tanks, ships etc, but tended to view them as build it yourself toys- and then blew them up or set them afire, you know "battle damage". Now I'm seeing a whole new world opening up and I'm anxious to jump in. My question is, what am I going to need as far as tools and equipment to get me started? I like the idea of opening up hatches and making modifications, but how? Do I need to invest in a dremel tool? I don't imagine the old glues (that they warned us not to breath) are still adequate are they? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff


Hi Jeff. Welcome aboard, and thanks for the intelligent question.

A dremel is always a good thing to have on hand. Also, don't overlook the practicality of a small hand drill for certain applications. Another very useful addition to your tool box would be tiny saw blades that are made to fit into an X-acto knife. They are available at most hobby stores.

As far as glues are concerned, you should probably have a range of CA adhesives on hand. They range from "water thin" to much thicker, with the latter requiring more cure time. But then there are also CA (cyanoacrylate) accelerators available, both in brush-on and spray-on versions. Be careful with clear parts, however, as there are specialty glues that are designed to eliminate the "frosted" effect.

I have been doing business with Micro-Mark for many years (www.micromark.com), and they still offer a free catalog. Just call 1-800-225-1066 and ask for one. Another company to consider for moderate scratch building/modifications is Plastruct (www.plastruct.com). They carry a wide variety of strip and sheet stock, as well as other useful items.

These are just a few ideas off the top of my head, but I'm sure I will think of more. I have to admit, however, that I'm probably a little rusty myself, as I have been concentrating more on art work in recent years. Thanks for your very relevant contribution to this thread.


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## Ron Gross

Jeff,
Here are a few more things that come to mind.

1.) Have sandpaper of various grits available at all times. In this same category, have access to files of various types. There are times when I have made my own file by gluing a sandpaper strip to a stiff backing.

2.) Have solvents readily available. Acetone is a must if you are using CA, as it is the single best solvent. Be careful around styrene, however, as it will literally dissolve with prolonged contact. You can usually get away with brief contact in instances when you are attempting to smooth still wet CA, etc.. If you use a small brush, however, expect it to soon be history unless you can get it into a small container of acetone ASAP. Sunnyside odorless thinner is also good to have around, as it is a much milder solvent for other applications, in addition to being a good medium for "wet sanding."

3.) Putty! It is a must for filling seems, and for correcting potential screw-ups. I prefer white Squadron, but there are other good ones as well. Also, don't overlook the benefits of something as simple as common household vinyl spackling compound, available at all hardware stores. It is not very durable, which limits its applications, but I still find it useful. It is also easy to work with, as it is water soluble.

As soon as you get a little scratch building experience under your belt, you will start to look at mistakes in a different light. All of a sudden even the most severe screw-ups become correctable, as you now have the knowledge and the materials at hand to get the job done. Remember that in the end, all you will see is a coat of paint, so what lies underneath is irrelevant. Consider using Testor's spray silver (no. 1246) as a primer, because it will reveal any remaining imperfections before the final coat is applied.

That's enough for now. I hope you find it helpful.
Ron G.


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## Steve H

You know, not to take away from this discusson, but we tend to forget that things we take for granted, things as simple as 'liquid cement for styrene works better in most cases than tube cement' are not universal knowledge.

Might a sticky for a new thread called something like "I want to build a model! what do I really need?!" be a good idea?


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## Ron Gross

Sounds like a possibility. We certainly have enough experienced people.


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## JAT

Steve H said:


> You know, not to take away from this discusson, but we tend to forget that things we take for granted, things as simple as 'liquid cement for styrene works better in most cases than tube cement' are not universal knowledge.
> 
> Might a sticky for a new thread called something like "I want to build a model! what do I really need?!" be a good idea?


Thanks to you both Ron and Steve. Exactly the type of information I was looking for to get me started. Very useful and helpful and I am indebted to you both. Years ago I attempted a vaccuform Jupiter, not having any idea what I was getting into. I believe my ultimate decision was to call it battle damaged after about six minutes and went and played tennis. So, a decade plus later and it is with great trepidation that I approach this project. I have some very specific ideas about what I want to do, but that first step.....


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## Captain Han Solo

JAT said:


> Thanks to you both Ron and Steve. Exactly the type of information I was looking for to get me started. Very useful and helpful and I am indebted to you both. Years ago I attempted a vaccuform Jupiter, not having any idea what I was getting into. I believe my ultimate decision was to call it battle damaged after about six minutes and went and played tennis. So, a decade plus later and it is with great trepidation that I approach this project. I have some very specific ideas about what I want to do, but that first step.....


 
My Sincere advice to you, If I may add to the Great advice suggestions above, would be to go out and Buy a Kit Now.

I would recommend the Flying sub at first, But it it may be better to tackle the Space Pod Or Chariot, all by Moebius of course, to get your feet wet.

They are well enginered Model Kits, that, if I may say so, Pratically build themselves right out of the box.

A little more effort and skill is required to add all the bells and whistles, Lights ETC..Which you probably could do, but a stock Chariot is a great model already.

Most Important thing to remember...

*HAVE FUN!!!!!!!*


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## Ron Gross

Agree completely.


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## Steve H

Jeff, if I may?

Tackling a vac form kit was a very brave thing to do on your part. I think you'll find building the new Jupiter 2 kit coming from Moebius to be much, much easier. 

I'm going to disagree with my friends on picking up a Chariot model to 'get your chops' back, because it seems to me it needs some special care, what with all that huge clear greenhouse. The Space Pod would probably be a good choice, a balance between complex and easy.

Now, just some quick basics to try and help, based on classes i used to be part of back in my IMPS days.

Things you should have:

An X-Acto knife, the good old #1 handle, with a pack of nice sharp #11 blades. There's many other craft knifes out there but that simple, basic X-Acto does the job and doesn't cost huge. 

In addition to the basic #11 blades, you might consider the saw blade that fits in the #1 handle. It's surprisingly useful.

An assortment of small 'jeweler's' files. It's nice to have all the many shapes but overall, having the 'half round', the 'flat' and the 'triangle' will do about 98% of the work.

Pin Vise (aka pin drill) and an assortment of drill bits. Sure, having a powered drill or a Dremel is good, but lots of times just having that small tool and a #52 bit is all you need. 

Tweezers. yeah, tiny things need to be picked up and glued and sometimes we all get the fumble fingers. Surgical Forceps have become popular because they can lock, but often the teeth on the grippy part can gouge and scar the plastic. Use whatever you're comfortable with.

glue, glue can be important. I've found the Testors Model Master Liquid to be surprisingly good. I used to be a 'Microweld' guy but that stuff was expensive back in the '70s, no idea what it's priced now!. Get the Testors with the metal needle at a hobby shop, the plastic needle version you find at craft stores and the like has a bad habit of clogging up.

also, it's not a bad idea to have a tube of good old Testors Model cement in the orange tube. It has limited use but boy, nothing works like it for some things like large areas that need to be glued then clamped to let set so it cures properly. A wing, say, or a ship hull.

Superglue, what Ron referred to by it's professional term CA glue, is useful but more for things that are not styrene plastic, such as resin or metal. 

You need a box to keep your tools in. Doesn't have to be fancy, or expensive. Heck, go buy a $5 hard shell pistol case at Big Lots, turn the foam inset over from 'eggcrate' to 'flat' and just lay them out on that. Or a lunchbox. Just SOMEPLACE where you can keep all your tools and materials together in one place so you can find them.

One option I suggest is a 'flush cutter' or 'parts nipper'. These things are wonderful and do a much cleaner job of removing a part from the sprue than cutting with a knife. Also, they can be useful if you move up to using photo-etched brass detail parts. But this is an optional tool and I don't consider that needed for a basic set. 

OK, what did I forget? Guys?


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## JAT

Steve H said:


> Jeff, if I may?
> 
> Tackling a vac form kit was a very brave thing to do on your part. I think you'll find building the new Jupiter 2 kit coming from Moebius to be much, much easier.
> 
> I'm going to disagree with my friends on picking up a Chariot model to 'get your chops' back, because it seems to me it needs some special care, what with all that huge clear greenhouse. The Space Pod would probably be a good choice, a balance between complex and easy.
> 
> Now, just some quick basics to try and help, based on classes i used to be part of back in my IMPS days.
> 
> Things you should have:
> 
> An X-Acto knife, the good old #1 handle, with a pack of nice sharp #11 blades. There's many other craft knifes out there but that simple, basic X-Acto does the job and doesn't cost huge.
> 
> In addition to the basic #11 blades, you might consider the saw blade that fits in the #1 handle. It's surprisingly useful.
> 
> An assortment of small 'jeweler's' files. It's nice to have all the many shapes but overall, having the 'half round', the 'flat' and the 'triangle' will do about 98% of the work.
> 
> Pin Vise (aka pin drill) and an assortment of drill bits. Sure, having a powered drill or a Dremel is good, but lots of times just having that small tool and a #52 bit is all you need.
> 
> Tweezers. yeah, tiny things need to be picked up and glued and sometimes we all get the fumble fingers. Surgical Forceps have become popular because they can lock, but often the teeth on the grippy part can gouge and scar the plastic. Use whatever you're comfortable with.
> 
> glue, glue can be important. I've found the Testors Model Master Liquid to be surprisingly good. I used to be a 'Microweld' guy but that stuff was expensive back in the '70s, no idea what it's priced now!. Get the Testors with the metal needle at a hobby shop, the plastic needle version you find at craft stores and the like has a bad habit of clogging up.
> 
> also, it's not a bad idea to have a tube of good old Testors Model cement in the orange tube. It has limited use but boy, nothing works like it for some things like large areas that need to be glued then clamped to let set so it cures properly. A wing, say, or a ship hull.
> 
> Superglue, what Ron referred to by it's professional term CA glue, is useful but more for things that are not styrene plastic, such as resin or metal.
> 
> You need a box to keep your tools in. Doesn't have to be fancy, or expensive. Heck, go buy a $5 hard shell pistol case at Big Lots, turn the foam inset over from 'eggcrate' to 'flat' and just lay them out on that. Or a lunchbox. Just SOMEPLACE where you can keep all your tools and materials together in one place so you can find them.
> 
> One option I suggest is a 'flush cutter' or 'parts nipper'. These things are wonderful and do a much cleaner job of removing a part from the sprue than cutting with a knife. Also, they can be useful if you move up to using photo-etched brass detail parts. But this is an optional tool and I don't consider that needed for a basic set.
> 
> OK, what did I forget? Guys?


Thanks, Steve. I'm writin' this down as fast s I can. All very helpful and I have to say just how much I appreciate all your willingness to share your collective experiences. I have to admit that I was a little apprehensive, having followed some previous exchanges and not being anywhere near actually having the model (sigh), but I am greatly encouraged by your helpfulness. I actually do have the chariot, have for about eight months now...untouched. I'ze a little scared. Also, found myself at a local gun show (which is to say a very large craft show with some guns present), and noticed several tables with many of the tools you have been mentioning. Any ideas on price differences between hobby shops, on-line suppliers and this kind of venue? Well, I seem to have gotten a bug, better go have a look at that chariot. Thank you all again, I'm really looking forward to further exchanges. Jeff


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## Steve H

Hmm, prices...well, they'll probably be all over the place. I'm a firm believer in supporting your local hobby shop, but there are realities of having to live, right? Some might think that nobody is going to go broke buying a stupid craft knife, but in this day and age I can't suggest you go pay, like, $5 for something you might get at Hobby Lobby for $3.

I don't do any online shopping (no money, no credit card, blah blah) so I can't offer any worthwhile suggestions there, sorry. 

I would suggest, if you're able, just looking around town, look at some places you might not consider. Craft stores such as Michaels and Hobby Lobby. Big Lots has some interesting options sometimes (and sometimes model kits at deep discount!). Sometimes even 'home improvement' stores such as Home Depot have a small craft tools section. And Sandpaper assortments (as Ron suggested) would be WAY cheaper at a Home Depot.

I think you could put together a tool box per my suggestion for around $50, plus or minus. Don't worry about Dremel tools or airbrushes or hand crafted German made rat tail files at this point.


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## john_trek

Jeff, 

I built models for years, very badly, until one day I ran across a soft cover a book on science fiction plastic model building. 

In my case it was "Famous Spaceships in Fact and Fantasy" about 30 years ago, but there are books like this still around. It ran through a variety of kits of varying complexity, and walked me through the steps on each one, introducing concepts like putty, primer coats, fixing problems and adding details. 

I will differ with the advice given above, and recomend that the Space Pod be your 3rd or 4th model. Best to cut your teeth on some really simple ones first, something like the Polar Lights snap-tite Enterprise 1701 (original series, not the Enterprise E). A kit like that takes comparatively little time, fits well, has a fairly simple paint job that can be done by hand and a couple cans of spray paint, and introduces you early to an easy kit modification: in this case, cutting off the damn snap-tite pins and gluing it together like a real adult.  The Revell/Monogram Viper is another one that would be a good early kit. 

It will also give you great satisfaction to have one of your first efforts turn out really nice, because once you step up to the more difficult kits you will sometimes end up with a finished product that was no where near as nice as what was in your mind's eye. We don't want you repeating your experience with the vacuform kit. 


I would reccomend a book called "How to build Sci-Fi Model Spacecraft"
It is reasonably priced, and available over at Culttvman in the books section.
http://www.culttvmanshop.com/shop/home.php 

You don't have to do everything that the articles recomend, I usually don't and I've been building kits for years (and years, and years). But if you get only a couple good pointers from each chapter, it is worth every penny. 

- John


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## Ron Gross

All of the above advice is excellent, but let's get back to Jeff's original concern. He expressed interest in how to effect certain custom modifications to the new Moebius J2 when the time comes, and what materials would be required. I think the spirit of these recent responses is that he should first take on a more conventional project to build confidence, and I quite agree. I'm not sure that it's all that important, however, to determine which model would be the simplest one to tackle. The fact is that all Moebius models assemble very well, thanks in part to Gary's excellent engineering, and the techniques currently being used in China. So I would say the choice should really revolve around the following two questions:

1.) Jeff, which project is most important to you personally, and 
2.) How much time do you want to spend on it?


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## jbond

If you can survive a vacuform kit, you can survive anything...


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## Steve H

John and Ron make good points, and I don't disagree with either.

You've got a Moebius Chariot and it concerns you. OK, I dig it. So here's a crazy idea, wny not start off by building something you've known, an armor kit? There's plenty of tank kits out there at all manner of pricepoints.

Altho some might suggest that building the Chariot is more akin to a model car kit, because of the care and detail you have to take wtih that big hunk of clear plastic body.

One other thing that I think is important, and sadly it's not something you can buy at a store, you need ROOM to build a kit. You need a clean, flat, well-lit surface that you can put your stuff on and leave it to let glue dry, or paint dry, or just to step away and rest your eyes and hands. This area should be free of cats, dogs, children, spouse or S.O., anything that might come in and touch and fiddle and break and lose and smear and damage things by accident. This is not always possible but do what you can. 

I have found inexpensive folding wood T.V. trays (what used to be called a TV dinner table) to be very helpful if having a private dedicated workspace is not possible due to space limitations. It's not perfect, but it's much much better than laying stuff on the floor and working there. Covering the top with self-stick white shelf paper gives you a plain work surface that won't 'lose' parts (too small, too dark, hides under another part) and makes cleaning up after easy-just peel the paper off and lay down new, and all the paint and glue blobs are not a distraction!


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## Dave Metzner

Here's a thread for all the answers to the burning question - How do I go about turning this box of parts into a finished model.
I have moved all the pertinent posts to this new thread... And made it a sticky for now... Lets see if this will stay on topic and work as a handy guide to Basic kit building materials tools and methods....

Dave


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## Ductapeforever

This post is on Glue. I have used many types over the years, the best I have come across used to be available in hobby shops years ago. It's a bit hard to find, but if you do you will save a small furtune in money,time and effort. I like a product called Weld-on # 3, or #4. It is very similar to Tenax as it welds the surfaces together. It was available in 2 oz bottles at nearly $4.50. ("I thought you said you'd save money." Not so fast grasshopper!) Today, you can sometimes find it in Hardware stores in the Plumbing isle. It is available in cans of various sizes, but the best place is in the Industrial Plastic supply houses in larger cities. Look in the phonebook under plastic suppliers. I buy it in 1 pint cans for around $16.50. Do the math, to buy the same amount in the 2 oz bottles would have run you an incredible $70.00 bucks. Keep an old Testors 1 oz glass bottle to transfer to for use. Use a pipet to fill the bottles. Throw away the brush inside the lid of the Testors bottle, and use a medium point paintbrush to apply the cement. In this quantity, depending on your use the 1 pint can if keep tightly closed will last you well over a year before you need to purchase more. So even if you don't get to a big city where you can find it very often, you won't need to.


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## Ductapeforever

Tools. A great source for tools on the cheap is Harbor Freight tools. Again sometimes found in the larger cities. You can find Dremel type power tools for an amazing $10.00 bucks, jewlers file sets for less than $4.00. Basic airbrush sets for around $15.00. A table top piston style mini air compressor to run the airbrush for around $30.00. I'll be the first to admit the quality is a little sub standard (Off brands, Made in China) ,but an amazing savings for those just starting out in the hobby and just want to get their feet wet. And if they do go south on you, at these prices they are cheap enough to replace.


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## Ductapeforever

Not the use it was intended for! I learned a trick from an IPMS chapter in Colorado. I use Testors Liquid Cement in the 1 oz bottle for everything other than glue. It makes a great cutting agent when working with Squadron, or Testors putty. Spread a small amount of putty on the area that needs filled. Roughly spread it out over the area. Dip a medium point camel hair brush in the Liquid cement and use it to spread and smooth the putty. The end result when dry is that it saves the amount of sanding time, speeds the putty drying process, and leaves a smooth surface blending the putty into the surrounding plastic. It also increases the working time with the putty.
Also it works very well as a brush cleaning agent when painting by hand, sometimes all the color pigment isn't removed when cleaning between colors. Paint tends to bleed into the sleeve holding the brush hairs to the handle, creating an unintentional mix of color when moving on to the next color. Next time you clean your brush with thinner and you think you have gotten the brush ready for the next color. Dip it in Testors Liquid Cement and wipe the brush on a clean paper towel. You will be shocked how much paint you missed.


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## Steve H

Good posts, Ductape, may I add a couple of things?

1. I think the 'bulk product' you refer to goes under the name MEK for (and I know I won't spell this right) Methyl Ethyl Ketone..well, someone smarter than me will decode that. Anyway, I recall that from the '70s, everyone was using their 'Microweld' bottle and filling them with MEK. Using a fine brush is how I learned to glue, but this is a case where you DO need to spend the money on a really good camel hair brush, because a cheap nylon or synthetic will just go to crap instantly.

2. Harbor Freight was one of those 'unconventional' stores I suggested checking out but forgot to name. I don't know how common they are but I have found that if you have several Big Lots in your town, you probably have a Harbor Freight near one. If you find you need something you won't use often, like a great big file to work down a huge puttied surface, it's a really good place to save money. I am not sure I would buy compressors or motorized drills there just because I have an odd belief that some tools you do need to buy the best you can afford because expensive tools won't make a poor craftsman great, but cheap tools can make a good craftsman poor. If that makes any sense. 

3. The Testors liquid glue he mentions is different from the Testors Model Masters liquid cement. Model Masters is somewhat like MEK with a slight thickening agent, Square Glass Bottle Testors liquid is like water. The uses he suggests are good ones for that. 

Another one is using Square Bottle Testors to make your own plastic putty. Taking bits of sprue, chopping them fine and putting the shavings into that glue will melt them and make a gooey mass, that can be applied to fill seams in plastic kits. There is no real cure time, no shrinkage and it welds to the plastic just like the kit parts. Files and cuts just like the kit. It takes practice but it's a good solution in some cases.

NOT suggested for use on clear parts!

another seam filling method is to use a piece of stretched sprue (made by heating a length over a candle DO NOT DO THIS NEAR MEK OR PAINT and gently pulling it apart, creating a thin string of plastic) to fill a seam. stretch a piece a little thicker than the seam is wide, cut it to fit the seam, and lay it down with liquid cement. Brush a coat or two over it to let it soften, then run the edge of a sharp #11 blade along it, like you were whittling and it should just smooth down and blend and become one with the kit. Then a little work with fine sandpaper to smooth it and BAM! puttyless seam!

THAT'S old school, baby!


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## Steve H

You know, all this talk, I keep finding myself having to stop and challenge every assumption I make, re-think EVERYTHING to "does EVERYONE really know that?"

So, a couple more utterly basic things.

1. Light. you have to have good lighting when working. it helps you read the instructions, it helps you from losing parts, it helps you to FIND parts you've dropped or gone flying when you cut them from the sprue (and that WILL happen), and it helps with eye strain when you're staring at that tiny tiny little thing you're trying to glue to another thing. Light becomes even more important when you paint.

2. Ventilation and air circulation. This is very important. You're dealing with some powerful chemicals in glue and paint and you HAVE to have air movement, keep the fumes away as best you can. There's a reason why kids in the old days used to buy 'airplane glue' and 'huff' it, it can mess with your head big time. Open some windows, put a 'inside the window' fan in one and have it run. Doesn't have to be a tornado, just a mild breeze that's exchanging the air. there's more you should do if you're working with sanding a lot of putty or working on sanding a resin kit but I'll leave that to those experts.


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## Ductapeforever

You're right about light. After 9 years peering through periscopes and being underwater in low light does a number on these tired old eyes. I forgot about Big Lots another good source.


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## Bruce Bishop

I don't think I saw any mention of magnifying glasses, visors, etc. yet. I know some people have great vision for small detail work, but I do not. 

I inherited an old visor type magnifier from my dad after he died, and when I started to use it, it made a big difference. Touchups to paint, tight spots to glue, painting eyes, all these things became much sharper when using the magnifiers, and without them (my normal vision) the details on the buildup I did looked much better. I like the visor because I can wear my glasses for distance vision and just look over the top of them to see through the magnifying visor. 

I also bought a couple pairs of the strongest cheap magnifying eyeglasses I could find (4X I think) at a dollar store which I also wear sometimes for seeing detail work when working on a model. They work quite well, but I have to remove them to see anything in the room except what is directly in front of my face!

As far as Big Lots and tools, that is a great suggestion. The last few years they have had some great deals on very nice tools for model building. They have had actual hobby knife sets with cases, and several variations on motor tools (not Dremel brand). I bought 3 of the tool sets they were so cheap, $25 each. They came with the tool itself, many accessories such as bits and different sized collets, and also with a flex shaft attachment and a clamp to put on a table so the tool can be hung from it so that it can be used easily, and a nice carry case to hold everything neatly was included! And I even found a single 20 piece diamond tipped bit set for them once.

At dollar stores I like to buy the big flexible foam-filled fingernail files women use, because they usually have a different grit on each side, and I really like using them for sanding kits.


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## Paulbo

The references to Big Lots reminded me of a good find I got there and have used both conventionally and unconventionally: a cheap set of calipers ($4.00 for a plastic set of dial calipers to use in addition to my 6" metal/dial and 8" metal/digital).

Conventional Use: They are great for taking measurements.

Unconventional Uses: Clamps or Separators - you can set a size you want parts to be held together or kept apart and lock down the calipers then fit them around / between your parts.

No, they're not basic tools, but once you've used them you'll find them indispensible.


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## StarshipClass

Fine, medium, and coarse sanding sponges--handle contours well without flattening if you take reasonable care.


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## JAT

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Fine, medium, and coarse sanding sponges--handle contours well without flattening if you take reasonable care.


I want to thank everyone again. Truly wonderful and extremely useful information, and very practical....taking lots of notes. Unfortunately. took a bit of a spill off of my bike the other night, nothing serious and was able to break my fall by extending my left hand, subsequently jamming my two middle fingers pretty thoroughly to the point where they don't really wish to bend much. They're improving (don't think they are sprained or broken) but tackling any fine gripping or manipulating tasks (say, building a model) is postponed for the immediate time being. Still reading and taking notes though ( and practicing my one-handed typing).


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## Topper

I've also found tools from surgical supply houses to be very useful. Hemostats, scalpels, probes, etc. Pretty much anything for detailed work. Even dissection kits can be helpful for detailed work. Also, I invested in an airbrush compressor and painting tools. They're a godsend for those smooth finishes.

Daniel


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## JAT

This question is possibly a little OT, but I'm pretty sure it is at least third-cousin related. While I was taking down all these suggestions for building supplies, storage and lighting and work spaces, a really nasty question occured. I have at this point three dioramas that I hope to eventually create, along with some fairly extensive ( though creatively ingenious) mods. So how large a base is an 18" model going to require, and where in Heaven's name am I supposed to display three of these in a 650 square ft., one bedroom apt? Good Lord, what have I got myself into? This is what waiting all these years has done, built up desire overload! Jeff


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## moebiusman

Practice makes cool models. Just build build build. The guys here are very helpful and friendly as you can see. And the combined knowlege is staggering.
I am fairly new to this site as well , but its a big help. Welcome and enjoy:wave:


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## Paulbo

moebiusman said:


> Practice makes cool models. Just build build build.


That's probably the best advice thus far. (Now, if only I had time enough to follow it!)


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## JeffG

Optivisors, good needle tip tweezers, CA glue-at least medium viscosity as the thin is practically useless in plastic modeling. A welding type cement- I like Tamiya's. or at least Testors liquid cement. I'd steer clear of the tube varieties. I'd also recommend Tamiya's putty and masking tape. Their tape is by far the best you can get when it comes to painting as it sits well and will not pull the paint off the model or leave residue, Their putty sands really smooth. If you can't find their putty, try Squadron green or white. Also you'll need some good nippers to cut plastic parts from the runners-starting to sound like a spokesman here but again I use some really fine Tamiya nippers-what can I say they make good stuff. Not the cheapest but excellent quality. They are really small, strong, sharp and can easily get between the parts you want to separate. 

As far as paint, that's up in the air. I've always had good results with Testors Model Master paints and generally prefer enamels. These are usually pushed through my Iwata airbrush. Don't forget to have several grades of sanpaper and a few tack rags handy too. Keep in mind that many of us have built up an arsenal over years and I'd recommend not going too crazy all in one trip to the hobby store. I used to work at a hobby shop and too many times would find some folks really hyped to get into the hobby THAT DAY! This usually lead to being overwhelmed and burnout and eventually onto the next obsession! All things in moderation and go at your own pace. Then you're likely to stick with it for years to come and soon enough, you'll have a shop full of model building tools!


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## Thor1956

Welcome Jeff!

Everything above is great advice!!! :thumbsup:

Everyone has mentioned glue and tools out the wazoo ... the only thing I can add is probaply one of the cheapest tools in my toolbox ... and probably one of the most valuable ... a pair of fingernail clippers. The kind with a nail file attached.

The part nippers are great for getting the larger parts off of the tree, but there are times when the fingernail clippers are easier to use on the itty-bitty parts. Also, the clippers tend to catch the part when it comes off the tree. Nothing worse than loosing a small part as it flies across the room to land God-knows-where.  :freak: Oh, one more thing, the built-in file does a great job for a quick edge clean-up.


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## Paulbo

JeffG said:


> Optivisors ...


Although they're really inexpensive, steer clear of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38896 

I bought a pair (on sale for only $2.99 or $3.99) and they are not even worth what I paid for them: the lights are pretty much worthless, the head band is tough to adjust, the visor portion doesn't want to stay where you place it, but even worse ... the optics have so much distortion that you only have a small viewing area in the very center of your field of view.

On the flip side, HF has some very inexpensive jeweler's loops (around $5 for a variety pack of different magnifications) that is well worth the money. I just did a check on their site and can't find the set, but (at least in my local HF) the friendly staff will help you find them.


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## Ductapeforever

The One thing that's an absolutely MUST HAVE that should be in every modeler's bag of tricks,...PATIENCE ! This is not a hobby for the " I gotta have it now" croud. If that's you, get out now. Go collect coins or stamps! 

Practice, Practice, Practice,Practice,Practice,PRACTICE! Don't be afraid to be bold, experiment. Try new techniques, measure three times,cut once! Yeah sure, you'll mess up a few kits along the way, but you will LEARN from the experience. I started this hobby 40 years ago as a young boy of only 9 years old, skill is slow in coming, but the reward for the wait....PRICELESS!


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## JeffG

Hate to say it Paulbo, but it's usually a good idea to steer clear of most things from Harbor Freight! I used to work at a shop where they always bought tools from there because they were cheap. And without exception, they always broke...sometimes during the first try and yet they continued to get things from there. It's like they had this mental block preventing them from learning from their mistakes.


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## total victory

Im a new member to this site,ive built many models since i was a kid im 50 now, The models ive seen on here that you guys have built look outstanding! I think im going to enjoy this place,I feel like such an amature after seeing some of these models,greetings to all,and happy new year


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## liskorea317

total victory said:


> Im a new member to this site,ive built many models since i was a kid im 50 now, The models ive seen on here that you guys have built look outstanding! I think im going to enjoy this place,I feel like such an amature after seeing some of these models,greetings to all,and happy new year


I've been building models for a few years and picked up some skills but I still feel like a beginner. When I found this site with all the talent these folks have and their generosity in sharing their skills and insights, I knew I came to the right place. So welcome aboard!
Mike


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## Dar

Another great thing to have of course is a tool box. (One was mentioned on page one.) Plano tackle boxes are best. They range from $30-100+ Depends on where you purchase them. Even $30 seems a bit much but for that you get a box big enough to hold brushs, small paints, files, mini clamps, storage for decals, photetch (on the projects you are currently working on), etc etc.
The possibilities are endless with these boxes. The 7771 (which ranges in price so watch where you purchase) will hold probably everything except airbrush tools and large spray cans. Flambeau also makes some excellent boxes. Shop around. A good tool box is a must, especially if you are prone to losing stuff like I am.:lol:


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## Model Man

All great advice given here. Definitely start with a model you used to know from way back when. You'll have more confidence.

Don't worry about exotic tools, even a dremel. Get a tube of glue, a kit and maybe some paint and brushes. Tools can be gotten as needed over time. Don't get hung up on tool purchases early on.

For any fancy mods to a kit, get your basic chops down first. 

Some of my vids may be of help. My motto, "Screwing up so you don't have to."
www.youtube.com/user/modelmantom


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## johncal

People were talking about magnifying glasses, but I prefer a magnifying light. You can get a decent one for less than $50 and the built in light helps a lot.

When it comes to sandpaper I always use a good assortment or wet or dry you can get from an automotive store. I like to wet sand large parts (like the J2 hull). Wet sanding keeps the plastic cool and the paper doesn't clog up and lasts way longer. It also lasts a lot longer than the el-cheapo stuff even when you use it dry.

For glue, my favorite is green label Zap-A-Gap. It's a medium body cyanoacrylate. And I use the pump bottle accelerator for certain applications.

I also have a full set of jewelers files, emery boards, exacto knoves, and a small step drill. Step drills go through plastic very nicely, don't leave burrs and cut a nice round hole. They're great for certain applications.


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## Paulbo

Model Man said:


> Don't worry about exotic tools, even a dremel. Get a tube of glue, a kit and maybe some paint and brushes. Tools can be gotten as needed over time. Don't get hung up on tool purchases early on.


That's probably the best advice yet. Get the basics and let the "exotic" tools come as you _need_ them. (You'll know when you need them.)

The only thing I'd add to the "basics" list is an Xacto handle with a #11 blade.


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## Dyonisis

Let's keep it simple for right now. When you progress, you'll learn what you need as you need it. Start out with an Exacto saw, a knife with # 11 replacement blades - (you can never have too many of them!)

A cutting mat to save your table top from cuts, and scratches.

A set of varying grades of sandpaper from 60 grit to 1500 - you'll need these for shaping and polishing of all sorts of materials. 

A visor is nice, but if it's something so small that you can't see it with your own eyes, the chances of someone else seeing it aren't very high. It's pretty much pointless except for filling small defects in broad surfaces that will be visible once painted. 

Bright lighting is a good idea too. If you can't see what you're building - it's pointless to try. 

Small chisels. You'll find these useful when needing to remove plastic for LED lighting, or mismolded plastic.

Files - big and small files. These save sandpaper, and are easy to clean. 

Machinists' drill bits from 0.15" to 1/16" are a neccessity when working with small parts that are hinged, or fiberoptics. 

Tweezers with long arms are what your want - not regular tweezers that allow slippage of parts which is self-defeating. 

Locking hemostat (forceps) - this is very handy when you need a third hand.

Emery boards - I go through these like water! I use 60, and 150 grit now for shaping fillers, and big parts. 

Supplies - Wooden dowels you can get cheaply enough from a hardware store, or The Home Depot. You never know when you'll need more strength, or length that you can get from plastic suppliers. 

Styrene - www.usplastic sells more than just styrene parts, but everything from plastic that you can dream of. 

Aluminum, and brass tubing. You'll definately want to have some on hand, I've had my share of bent model parts that I wish I could've replaced back in the day. This was before I knew K & S brass existed! 

Wood filler - Elmers' is what I use. It's non-toxic (water based), it cleans up easily, and you can control the viscosity without ruining it. It dries fast, and it stays hard once cured with very minimal shrikage. It can be sanded, drilled, cut, and painted without the worry of paint incompatibility.

www.walthers.com is a modelers paradise for all things model related. 

www.evergreenmodels.com is another great plastic site for shapes, not just www.plastruct.com - even though I've used both, I use dimensional shapes for small projects only. 

www.kustomshop.com is a great place for all kinds of paint that you can't get at your local hobby store. 

www.alsacorp.com makes the most incredible paint ever devised! Killer Chrome is a spray on paint that looks exactly like chrome without water, or an expensive paint boot setup. 

www.bearair.com sells every quality airbrush you can think of at discount prices. 

On the harbour frieght thing: I've bought from them for over ten years, and I've never had to take anything back yet. I've bought from everyone else, and _have_ had to take something back to be replaced. I bought my airgun from them, my compressor, and a cheap-ass airbrush that I use for painting cars, and never had a problem with them, or the air tool accessories that I bought from them.

I wouldn't trust everything they sell - hand tools like wrenches, or come-a-long straps that you really depend on to be safe, and not break, but everything I use is generally small, simple to use products. 


Here's a site that I hope you'll find useful: 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishi...ers/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html


~ Another Chris


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## Knucles2

Paulbo said:


> Although they're really inexpensive, steer clear of these: harborfreight(sorry, cant link yet)
> 
> I bought a pair (on sale for only $2.99 or $3.99) and they are not even worth what I paid for them: the lights are pretty much worthless, the head band is tough to adjust, the visor portion doesn't want to stay where you place it, but even worse ... the optics have so much distortion that you only have a small viewing area in the very center of your field of view.
> 
> On the flip side, HF has some very inexpensive jeweler's loops (around $5 for a variety pack of different magnifications) that is well worth the money. I just did a check on their site and can't find the set, but (at least in my local HF) the friendly staff will help you find them.



I know you must have been linking optics, but when I first clicked the link it led to 2 1/2 ton jacks...First thought? What kinda frakkin' models do you guys build ???!!!

Oh, and btw...Hi!!1 Bob S here,delurking to share a chuckle


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## Paulbo

Wow! How long ago did I post that, that I couldn't create a link.

This is set NOT to buy: http://www.harborfreight.com/magnifier-head-strap-with-lights-38896.html Total crap. You will HATE them.

This set is a best buy: http://www.harborfreight.com/head-strap-magnifier-with-work-light-95890.html Exactly the same as the set I paid $50 for and the optics are first rate. $10 and they're a solid piece of work.

The jeweler's loops (can't find a link) are top notch ... but not if you wear glasses


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## Paulbo

Ahhh! I just saw that it's YOU (Knucles2) that can't link. I didn't think I'd made that post that long ago.


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## FLKitbuilder

Here are some everyday items a hobbyist finds useful:

Get some little plastic cups. This is something I have found invaluable for mixing paints, creating washes, using 2 part epoxy, etc. I haven't read all the posts here so I don't know if someone mentioned them already. You can get them here in a 200 count for about $5. Hobby Lobby sometimes sells them, although they aren't as flat and are a little more expensive. 50 for $2.00 I think. I prefer the ones from usaknifemaker.com because they have a wide bottom and don't spill easily and they're cheaper. 

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/mixing-cups-2oz-for-epoxy-paint-stain-finishing-200count-p-608.html

Women's makeup applicators.They look like q-tips with sharp points and flat ends on the back. Great for cleaning up washes or removing mistakes. 

Emory boards make good sanding sticks. 

Children's wooden craft sticks..look like popsicle sticks. Can be found at Hobby Lobby or Michael's or most craft stores. Mostly for mixing paint and epoxy. 

Keep your spaghetti sauce jars for thinners and water to clean your brushes. Keep any jar lids. They are great for holding small parts, mixing epoxy. A piece of tack will hold small parts for airbrushing. 
Baby food jars are great for storing mixed paints. I use a coffee can for my general water source. Washing out paint cups, large brushes with a lot of paint on them (acrylic only), and anything requiring a large quantity of water. 
After a week or so of use, I dump it into a 5 gallon bucket. That can be taken to a hazardous material drop off, or you can add clumping kitty litter which will turn it solid and then you can put it in the garbage. 

Micro mark sells a battery powered paint mixer. Get it! It will save you a world of trouble when you go to use your airbrush. 

High powered hair dryer or heat gun. Will dry acrylic paints fast, also good for drying dull or gloss coats quickly. A must if building vinyl figure kits. 

Blue tack...the stuff you use to hang pictures without using nails. Many uses.

Nail polish remover. The real stuff with acetone. Very good for cleaning stubborn paint off of airbrushes, especially acrylics which dry fast. 
Make sure you use a breathing apparatus. Or you can buy the real stuff at Walmart or a hardware store in a bigger can cheaper. But you probably won't need much. 

One thing that might be useful is a tackle box with removable storage bins. They are adjustable and great for storing paints, tools, or just about anything else you need. One good sized tackle box might contain up to 6 of these bins, making essentially a portable paint studio. 

One more trick. get a small fiberglass cutting board from Walmart or your local supermarket. Cover it with aluminum foil. You now have a disposable pallet.

A canvas drop cloth, that professional painters use, makes a great table covering for your build area.

A simple cardboard box makes a good temporary spray booth as long as you're in a ventilated area. 

Clothes pins and rubber bands are good for clamping items, but a few specialty clamps, such as are available at micro mark are good for ship and space modelers. 

Go to yard sales, flea markets or swap meets if you have them in your area.. There is no end to the useful items you can find for your hobby.
I got a rechargeable drill for $5 at a local garage sale. I saw a Dremel the other day for $20 in perfect condition, but I already had one so I didn't buy it. 

When looking at any item as a potential item for use in the hobby ask yourself..
what can I use it for? 
will it make my work easier?
will it make me more organized?
You'll often find that instead of spending the big $$ for so-called specialty hobby items, there is a useful household alternative available if you use your imagination. 

Case in point, Future floor wax, now know as Kleer or Pledge with Future, is a high gloss acrylic clearcoat much cheaper than the spray glosses you buy in the hobby store. 
Thin it and use it in your airbrush to apply gloss coats to cars or other kits. 
Can also be brushed on. It can also be used to "glue" photoetched parts. Can "yellow" after a few years.

Chalk pastels. I don't know if anyone mentioned these. A good set of artist's chalk pastels is great for weathering effects, painting panels, such as the Klingon Bird of Prey, shadowing effects, etc. Cheaper than the weathering kits at Micro Mark. 

Michael's sells pre-cut wooden bases that you can sand, stain and varnish for displaying models. 

If you need to use a canned spray paint, don't spend your money on those small cans of Testor's or Tamiya paints. Get Duplicolor from Auto Zone or Advance Auto parts. Just as good and a lot cheaper in the long run. Duplicolor makes great primers too in 4 shades..black, white, dark grey and light grey. Don't use the Fill-in type. It will obscure your details. Krylon is a decent alternative, but I've found their primer is too thick for me for kits with high detail. But to each his own. Try a few different ones until you find one you like. 

As someone else said, Alclad is the perfect paint for metallic items, especially chrome. Some car modelers strip the chrome off plated parts and spray them with Alclad chrome instead. 

Toothpicks or cocktail sticks. Invaluable with a number of uses. Applying small drops of glue, for just one, stirring small paints. 

You can make an inexpensive Third Hand by getting a piece of wood. Drilli a few holes the width of either a copper, wood or plastic rod. Glue an alligator clip to the rod, drop it in the hole and voila. a clip you can attach small parts to for painting. For parts that don't have an appendage to hold onto, you can use blue tack to attach a rod to it. 

A cheap, plastic lazy Susan from Walmart is great for giving 360 degree access to a model while airbrushing it.

Those stairstep type plastic or plexiglass spice racks are useful for paint racks, especially with smaller paint bottles like Model Masters or Tamiya. 

Cheap, rolling plastic cabinets are great for storing items under your work bench or table. 

In a large work area like a garage, any kind of storage rack, such as the one with removable storage bins available at Sam's is great for storing tools, tape, rarely used paints and other stuff you don't need immediate access to. 

These are just some of the things I've learned to use over the years. That's all I can think of at the moment. I'll add more as I remember them. 




Happy building.


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## unkljune

PATIENCE, an despite what some may say. there is no such thing as a dumb question. don't be afraid to ask, either you will get an answer or you won't.


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## RMC

*?*

*plenty of bandaid's*


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## starseeker

A question that I see asked repeatedly. I've started an album of my favorite modelling tools at:
http://s1004.beta.photobucket.com/user/jkirkphotos/library/Modelling Tools
I still haven't gotten the hang of the useless new Photobucket so I don't know how I can organize it yet, or if that will be possible. There are descriptions off to the right under "Media Info". I'll add more photos in the next while.

Much later edit: a not-quite-speculative follow-up to this question here:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=392776

and, here:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=390496

Tho' neither are aimed at straight kit building. Yet.


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## mike44

*paint wont stick*

my new spiderman model the paint wont stick to it anyone help?


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## Paulbo

Did you wash your kit with warm, soapy water before you put the paint on it? That's always a good thing to do because there's often (read essentially always) some mold release on the plastic that keeps the paint from sticking.


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## nirina tsitakondaza

Did you wash your kit with warm, soapy water before you put the paint on it? That's always a good thing to do because there's often (read essentially always) some mold release on the plastic that keeps the paint from sticking as crossdress
__________________


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## pob63

Eye loupes, like the ones favored by jewelers and watchmakers, can be a good alternative to an optical visor magnifier. They weigh less, take up less space, come in variety of magnifications, and are much cheaper. Amazon is a good source.


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## Dyonisis

pob63 said:


> Eye loupes, like the ones favored by jewelers and watchmakers, can be a good alternative to an optical visor magnifier. They weigh less, take up less space, come in variety of magnifications, and are much cheaper. Amazon is a good source.


That's a "jewlers' loupe" - it takes some getting use to, and a little finesse to use correctly, and not everyone will want to squint their eye trying to do so! It's better to get a "helping hand" mirror with the two alligator clips attached to it. This works great, and you can see tiny parts with it while freeing your hands. I use a headband with a light on it - like what Uncle Si uses on Duck Dynasty to see small objects. He just uses it to annoy people, but it can be very useful when needed! 

~ Chris ​


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