# Troy Bilt Horse Wont Start



## ajp (Apr 17, 2008)

I have a troy bilt tiller with the HH60 engine. The block is stamped 136457. Can anyone tell me the year it was produced?
Also, it ran good but when I engaged the tines in the dirt it would scratch the surface and bog down till it stalled under no strain in the ground. I check plug gap .20 and put new gas. Good compression in motor.
The next day it had no spark. I replaced condenser and regap points to .20. I get a spark only sometimes.
I am beginning so suspect the magneto may be at fault since the weak spark may be at fault under load may reveal it is worn. Any advice? Can I convert to solid state to do away with the points and condenser. The magneto number is Tecumsen ez start 30550. Please advise. Also it has a japanese plug s-45. the frame is written plug s40. What is the correct spark plug in champion? I just bought the old thing and want to till the garden asap


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## Jake T. (May 5, 2007)

Those engines have been around for along time. Don't know what year it is. I think you should start with a new Champion plug (19 Lm) with a .030" gap. Have you checked your carb. adjustment? If it's bogging it could just need an adjustment. Have you checked the ignition points? They could be dirty. Clean and regap to .020"

Jake T.


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## ajp (Apr 17, 2008)

Jake T. said:


> Those engines have been around for along time. Don't know what year it is. I think you should start with a new Champion plug (19 Lm) with a .030" gap. Have you checked your carb. adjustment? If it's bogging it could just need an adjustment. Have you checked the ignition points? They could be dirty. Clean and regap to .020"
> 
> Jake T.


Thanks. I installed a cj8 plug , is that ok. It is gapped at .30. I reset the points at .20 and it ran but it breaks up. So I assume it needs points and since it is an old unit I will change the coil. Any other info would be appreciated. Does anyone know whay the compression should be on the cylinder?


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## Jake T. (May 5, 2007)

The cj8 is probably o.k. Did you notice if the point contacts were dirty? I usually take a book match cover or some other piece of paper (non wax coated) and draw it between the point contacts to insure any oily film or dirt is removed. That can make a big difference in how the engine runs. Wouldn't hurt to put new points and condenser in. Not very expensive. Try this before buying a coil.

Jake T.


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## ajp (Apr 17, 2008)

Jake T. said:


> The cj8 is probably o.k. Did you notice if the point contacts were dirty? I usually take a book match cover or some other piece of paper (non wax coated) and draw it between the point contacts to insure any oily film or dirt is removed. That can make a big difference in how the engine runs. Wouldn't hurt to put new points and condenser in. Not very expensive. Try this before buying a coil.
> 
> Jake T.


I noted a pit mark in the points. I will search today for points.


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## Jake T. (May 5, 2007)

You can polish the points and they will work o.k. Were they dirty when you looked at them?


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## ajp (Apr 17, 2008)

*troy bilt 1990 ???*



Jake T. said:


> You can polish the points and they will work o.k. Were they dirty when you looked at them?



Actually they were clean, I noted a deep pit mark in the center. Well, I have it running good now. I found a new replacement coil and points online with delivery for $ 32.00. I pulled the cylinder top head off and found alot of carbon also. One cylinder was ashy the other was carbonized. I cleaned it with penetrating oil and car choke cleaner. I then used canned air to blow out the valves. It runs good.but the speed is set to one speed only, full throttle and off. Is this normal ? I also noted a carburator rod is missing. Any advice where to get a replacement?
I also noted that power still alittle weak for deep rototilling and it boggs down to allmost stall or run eratic and dont know if this is correct or I need further adjustments. Where can I buy reasonable decals and what is the correct spray paint color to continue with restoration? Thanks


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