# Noob to Nitro with a few questions



## JJohnston (Apr 26, 2009)

Hey guys I had a few questions with my new Traxxas Jato 3.3, I recently picked this RTR kit up. I have experience with electric RC from many years ago I raced my RC10T quite regularly when I was younger. I bought my son a RTR Traxxas Slash for Christmas to give him a hoby other than video games. Well after showing him the basics I got the itch back!! I need you to go drive with him you know! LOL. Anyways this time I went with a nitro with no experience on nitro engines. Ok would you guys mind helping a noob with a few questions. 

I live in MI and we still have some chilly weather, 50's today. 
I completed my break in procedures just how the manual states. 

1. When I 1st start my jato it takes a few times to get the truck to idle, (I am thinking thats the norm) but even after it starts idling the engine needs to run for 3 minutes before I can hit the throttle. If I give it any throttle (yes and slowly) it just stalls like its loading up with to much fuel. After it gets good and warm than that takes us to question 2..

2. When the jato takes off it acts like its loading up with fuel before it takes off, almost like its flooding the motor for a second than it clears up and runs like a bat out of h...!!! (Is this normal?)

3. After run oil? Do you guys remove the glow plug every time or is sprayinig a good amount of PB Blaster (A fancy WD40) in the air neck ok? I normally spray PB Blaster and run the motor starter and repeat 4 or 5 times. I have removed the glow plug and checked it seems that the lube is getting to the piston ok this way. I just worry about stripping or cross threading the engine from removing the glow plug so many times. Not to mention if the engine is still warm at all this is a big no no with a car, has anyone hear ever stripped there glow plug hole?

I have tried adjusting my low mixture setting and it only seems to idle higher, my high mixture needle seems ok because I get blue smoke. Only this loading up of the engine during take off. The truck came with a wheelie bar and the way the truck is running there is no way it could pull a wheelie, but when it kicks in than its very difficult to keep straight. !!! 

Any advice on what settings to adjust and what it should perform like?
Thank you everyone for reading and or helping the new guy I would love to get my hands on a losi or a Team associated bugy and start racing again (with the son) I just need to find them tracks in MI.. 

Thanks!! Jason


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## nitro4294 (Oct 15, 2004)

*I will try to answer as best I can.
It is normal for a nitro engine to do what is called "load up" at idle because it isn't burning all the fuel that is going in. If you burp the throttle while idling, it will help.If it takes more than a few seconds before you can give it any throttle, then you might be to rich at idle, try leaning it out a bit and yes, it will make it idle faster, you can adjust for that also.

When your done playing or racing for the day, get as much of the fuel as you can out of the whole system, tank and engine. Then I like to put a few drops of after run oil in the carb and through the glow plug hole, turn the motor over a few times and you are set until next time.

That is what I do, if someone wants to chime with a different routine, please do so, I am also open to a few ideas.

:wave::wave::thumbsup::thumbsup:*


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## JJohnston (Apr 26, 2009)

Awesome thanks for the info, never any fears of stripping the glow plug hole?


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## bojo (May 6, 2002)

*glow plug*

you could have a cold glow plug it it .Try a #8 in it.


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## nitro4294 (Oct 15, 2004)

JJohnston said:


> Awesome thanks for the info, never any fears of stripping the glow plug hole?


The wrench I use for the glow plug has clips that hold the plug strait, so it goes in strait. In close to 5 years of playin with nitro offroad cars, I haven't stripped one yet. Just remember, don't over tighten it and you should be good.


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## rybred33 (Jan 10, 2007)

JJohnston said:


> 3. After run oil? Do you guys remove the glow plug every time or is sprayinig a good amount of PB Blaster (A fancy WD40) in the air neck ok? I normally spray PB Blaster and run the motor starter and repeat 4 or 5 times. I have removed the glow plug and checked it seems that the lube is getting to the piston ok this way. I just worry about stripping or cross threading the engine from removing the glow plug so many times. Not to mention if the engine is still warm at all this is a big no no with a car, has anyone hear ever stripped there glow plug hole


 Hey Jason, congrats on the new nitro. I dont know about the pb blaster, I cant say if its good or bad to use, I stick with after run oil and only use it after im done for the day, whether im just toolin' around or actually at a club race. A few drops in the plug hole, then a few drops through the carb opening and leave the plug out so you can turn the flywheel by hand about four or five revolutions. this has worked for me with consistent engine performance between rebuilds. im no pro, but hope this helps a little:thumbsup:


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## circuitfxr (Sep 26, 2001)

One little tip that could help with your adjustments. Alot of people makes adjustments with the air filter removed from the carb. The problem then occurs when they reattach the filter. The mixture becomes richer because of the reduced air being allowed in. The richer mixture will cause the "loading" and stalling effects you mentioned. Make your adjustments with the filter on and see if that helps. You can also try a hotter plug if all else fails. Hope this helps. Good luck.


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## Mike Clark (Apr 28, 2007)

One thing about pure Synthetic lube it burns very clean but the minus it will not protect surfaces from rust like a Castor based fuel after a run. Use the Blaster and After run Oil, if you plan to shelve you car for a while, If not a small squirt of WD40 in the venturi and turn it over a few times. 

After all you are trying to prevent rust from forming on the crank bearings, the con rod bearings and the engine sleeve.
The WD40 will work great for this.

Yes your Nitro engine will LOAD up specially if the low end needle valve is incorrectly set. At idle, your engine rpm should be rather quick this is to keep the engine processing fuel at a good rate. That way no loading up at the start. 
I suggest checking out you low end needle adjustment. Your carbs' slide at idle should be open between 40 to 60 thousands (that's a mild guess), to be sure consult your manual. Now at idle there's not a lot of air being pulled into the venturi and if you have a misadjusted low end needle, guess what, it's sucking fuel. The more fuel that is pulled in, the more likely the engine will load up. The unburned fuel causes the motor temp to fall which will lead to a glow plug burn out the second you pull the trigger and dump more fuel into the cylinder.


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## Mike D. (Mar 4, 2009)

a hotter glow plug will help, the hotter glow plug you have the faster it will burn fuel, the colder the plug will cause fuel loading (not burning fast or hot enough), try leaving you ignighter on and running it, see what happens.


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