# Some Tjet Mods!!



## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Some of you were curious as to how I get these things to go so fast, so I took a couple pics of some supplies and a closer look at the specific mods.
Some of the items are:
Braided shunt wire
Pickup shoe braid
Super II brush tubes
Neo traction magnets
Aluminum crown gear
Custom wound motor

You can see what I start with as far as the motor is concerned, and a finished custom wound motor. I plan on getting this thing "on the clock" today! Will keep you posted!

Jim Sgrig


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*Interesting..*

Please continue...


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Well, I was having some issues with the laminate stack spinning on the shaft, I need to wind another motor and solder the shaft to the stack to eliminate the stack from spinning. I've got a sensor on my strip fpr scale 60' times, and they weren't right. I got good mph, but the stack was just slipping on the shaft. I'll get some more photos tomorrow night, and I will surely continue. I'll give you a rundown on tire size and traction magnet strength. Sometimes I combine 2 different magnets to aquire desired downforce. I think I went too strong, which caused the stack to spin! More to come!!

Jim Sgrig


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Jim- great tutorial. I must admit that I did shed a tear when I saw that perfectly good chassis get its brush contacts pulled out. Fortunately there are no activist groups for the protection of T-jets.
Looking forward to the arm wind tutorial.
Jim


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## Illinislotfan (Mar 8, 2009)

Jim,
Excuse my ignorance, but why is the extra hole drilled next to the one for the armature shaft?
Joe


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Ah.......I was waiting for someone to ask! I was going to get to that later in the thread. I don't use standard comm brushes, I use what call a "wet" comm. I make brushes from springs and silver shunt wire. They require lubrication. I drill the hole in the chassis to add a shot of oil onto the comm before I make a pass. The comm will last much longer, and you don't have the "drag" from the standard brushes to slow the motor down. You do have to inspect the comm periodically, but I can get several runs in before I have to disassemble the chassis. On some of the cooler running cars, I've made up to 20 passes before it had to come apart. You usually know when it's time for maintenance when the E.T.'s start to fall off. Either I adjust the brushes ( give them a poke with a pair of tweezers to return the length ), or I just make another set. I usually have spares made up ready to go if I'm in competition.

Jim S.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

WoW!  

Gonna be fast! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

roadrner said:


> WoW!
> 
> Gonna be fast! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


That's what I'm planning on RR! I'd like to get this one into the 0.4's at over 40mph. I think I have some issues with the solder on the brush tubes. It wasn't running the numbers it should be. I took it apart and will be winding another motor after I look into the brush tube issue.

Jim Sgrig


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