# Pullback rims...strip -n- paint em'



## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

I have not seen anyone do this here so, I am posting a how to strip the Chrome of JL pullback chassis rims and paint them with flat paints. Even how to get that white wall Rat Rod look from them. Yeah Baby.










I use 2 different sizes of hand operated bits for the rears (not sure what size but, originally got one that fit a stock AFX and then one a bit smaller. You will want to drill these all the way through for the rear rims on AFX cars. I don't drill any holes in the front rims. I just pull them off the front axle, carefully not bending, and then save that for my axle later on. 










I use the smaller hand drill bit first and then the larger one. This keeps from getting the hole out of whack. Don't skip this or you are going to be driving a clown car. (wobble, wobble, wobble)










I use blue Poster Putty to hold the rims on a tube or what ever else you have will work just fine. 

Poster Putty (there is a yellow version under another name that works just as well) is the stuff that acts like ABC gum but isn't and holds posters on the wall without putting any holes in the wall. It also holds small parts and bodies very well. 










Flat yellow is beeing used for this. Why flat paint? It will shrink when dry and keep the detail, unlike gloss colors that tend to glob up. The flat dries faster and can be put on in several coats and then clear coated if you want. They make a clear coat that is for flats and won't make everything glossy if that is what you want. Also if you want a high gloss yellow when done just use a gloss clear coat. Yeah it sounds to simple....it is that easy. Anyone can airbrush in fact it is much easier than painting from a can. 










Always use a good matched paint thinner. For example I am using Testors paint and this is the thinner you use with Testors. Get the big can cause you don't want to run out. 

Bob I don't get the thinner thing you ask? Here it is short and simple. You gotta have paint thinner to get it to run through your airbrush. Different Airbrushes may need a little more or less depending on how well they suck the paint through. My Airbrush is an Iwata and it replaced my Pasche. Wish I would have had this airbrush back when I was 12....oh well.

My Iwata airbrush lets the paint flow into it from the top. My old Pasche had to suck it up from the bottom. I like the down flow idea much better as I don't have to mess with all those bottles and stuff. I just mix, shake and go. *Bam* Everyone likes what they like and not saying my airbrush is the best. If you are thinking about getting an Airbrush then you might want to check out some of the other threads here that go into that detail. I did and may end up getting another type just for fun! I like fun.










I am using about 25% Thinner to about 75% paint. If you don't get enough thinner then you will not be spraying very well. You can always add more thinner or paint as needed. 

Always start out on a box or something first to check that you got it right. To much thinner and paint will look way to wet. To much paint and you may not even get paint to come out of airbrush...You just need to practice and you will be a pro before you know it.

Wait don't post yet! Gotta finish this first!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Part 1.)


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Continued:










Her is the paint added to the thinner...ooooh it looks good....I love paint!! Add the thinner first.










On my airbrush there is a vent hole on the top of the lid. If you have bottles there is also a hole in the part that screws on. Keep this clean as it is needed for the airbrush to work properly.

Holding my trusty paint rag over the top I shake like mad and mix up the paint and thinner. You can also hold the rag over the nozzle of airbrush and give it a little air to mix it up (not a substitute for shaking but, just an added measure to mix thoroughly.










I have some gloves but, didn't wear them Doh. This is flat paint and you can pretty much open it up (spray heavy) here. You want to move the angle of the tube after spraying each rim to get an even coat. Don't try and paint each rim all at once. You can hit one rim and then move on to the next rim, as not to get to much paint buildup. After letting dry for just a bit you can go back and hit it again. I love painting....did I say that before?










Paint is still wet and will shrink up. Look at all the detail they put into these rims. That chrome just doesn't show it. I think that is why AFX originally painted their rims. Heck you can paint these silver also as it works very much like flat paints.










After you are done painting wipe all the paint out of your jar or paint reservoir. Then add Acetone and run through your brush. One or two times till it is all cleaned up. Also make sure to clean your airbush nozzle with the Acetone you sprayed into your paint rag. Hurry though as Acetone evaporates very quickly. I take my airbrush apart and clean the needle once in a while. If your needle seems to be sticking then probably needs to be cleaned. (Pasche front needle cones are very fragile and you gotta be carfull not to tighten them up to much or they will warp and tear at the tip) My Iwata comes apart from the rear and cleans up pretty quick with a few wipes of Acetone.










This is the rear rim. It does not have that flat goofy edge like the front one does. 

Wait still not done...don't post yet!!! (Part 2)


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

I have played with these rims. I never had good sucess getting them to ride smooth. If you are doin a custom that wont see the track, go for it! If you have a trick to get them working good let me know, I got a load of them around


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Continued:










Here is what I have used in the past (ELO Easy Lift Off) but, since being here for a short while now have learned a few tricks. I used Easy Off oven cleaner in a jar and (as we are speaking now) have a bunch of these rims soaking. Just checked on them and they are almost completly stripped after just 2 hours. Will hit them with a toothbrush and may need to stick them back in?? Some of them came out black plastic (like I have always seen) and some came out the cleary white color like the JL bodies are molded in (never seen that till now).










Here are the instructions for the ELO. I like to use this stuff for stripping the paint off of AFX semi trailers and the such (larger items) and for removing stubborn water decals. I always rinse in soapy water between short soaking and scrubbing with ELO as not to hurt the plastic.











Ooooops....Yep call me a klutz. Just glad this was a small bottle. Picked up a bunch of paint yesterday so, it is all good. I love paint!!










Here is a front rim with the flat edge painted white. Will look real sharp once the tire is put back on.










Here is the finished project. 57 Nomad "Rat Rod" There are so many possibilities with these steelie rims. I am going to paint a 57 Nomad the same color as the rims next....Will post it here next week as long as my schedule allows.










Here are a couple of pics of the rims just stripped in Easy Off in a pickle jar and cleaned up with an a stiff toothbrush. (I haven't taken the pictures yet but, will make them magically appear here in a bit....



















Used a stiff toothbrush an scrubbed very hard to get any of that clearish yellow film off. I ended up with 10 sets and put 3 sets back in for a bit. Had to use an Ex-Acto knife (new blade) to get some of the tough spots cleared out. What ever it looks like before you paint it is what it is going to look like after the paint is down. Have fun!

I plan on doing a thread on airbrushing a slot car body with 2 colors next. Give me a little time as this took a lot of time to do. If you have any questions please ask them here and I will respond to them as fast as I am able... (part 3)

The End.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

T-Jet Racer said:


> I have played with these rims. I never had good sucess getting them to ride smooth. If you are doin a custom that wont see the track, go for it! If you have a trick to get them working good let me know, I got a load of them around



See the first part about drilling with a hand drill. Go slow and use 2 bits. If you try and drill the size needed first you are going to get a wobble. The smaller bit used first keeps you centered for the next size up. I suppose you could go crazy and use 3 different sized bits up to the final needed size if you wanted. I just go slow and they run great for me.

I don't want to build shelf Queens here. Our son always wants to race the car I just fixed up. We raced a bunch today. He is 3 1/2 and does quite well. I didn't realy get to start racing untill I was 8 years old.

Our 5 year old Daughter likes to race also but, then always goes away to play with her dolls after a bit. That frees up the other controler for me. I put up some of my cars that realy have a lot of time into and race them when the kids are asleep or outside, etc....


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## gear buster (Dec 1, 2005)

*stripping*

Here is another trick for taking off chrome if ya didn't hera about it yet.
I do lots of older model kits. To strip off chrome from the bumpers and such for rechromin, I use wesley bleach white for auto whitewalls. It is a cleaner you can get at any auto store. Just fill up a dish, place in the parts and bam.. Chrome just melts off the part. :thumbsup:


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

Bob, I love how you just paint your hand yellow, it's all about the slots, lol.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

sethndaddy said:


> Bob, I love how you just paint your hand yellow, it's all about the slots, lol.


Me too Ed!

The mark of a true painter, he didnt even flinch I'm sure. I LMAO when I saw what looked like my own hands in the pic. If someone asks me what color I painted something, I just hold up my hands or point to the spot on my shirt!

Great topic, great pics, Looking forward to more! Thanks Bob!


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Bill Hall said:


> Me too Ed!
> 
> Great topic, great pics, Looking forward to more! Thanks Bob!


 

Would have to agree. Love the pix!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: rr


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

Ok, Then I must be doining it wrong??? What size bits do you use and I got to get the hand drill, when can I find it? In a hobby shop?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Proper piloting*

Most Hobby stores carry the basic "pin vise" set, usually at considerable markup. They are also sold in welding supply stores for maintaining gas torch tips and can be had for pocket change. Get the basic pinvise set first and then watch tool sales for the plastic capsule style minibit index sets. The ones that look like a big gumball prize. Also astronomically priced in Hobby Shops, but if you shop around you can find them much cheaper! 

I rarely drill any hole without first drilling a pilot hole. Like Bob said, it's advisable to take it in steps. Sure I can usually hit it most times by blasting through with a 1/16 bit; however your odds go from "usually" to "darn near every time" by patiently piloting through!

Carefully go up a size from the stock center bore, and work carefully up to 1/16 for t-jet AFX axles. I usually take it in two bites. Work the bit through carefully and try to stay square. Wind the bit in straight and wind it straight back out. 

Dont over wind the bit once you've bored thru, back it straight out so you dont remove more material on the way out. Just follow the bit and dont force it. It will pull its way through and find it's way back out. Just turn the bit, dont push!, channel your effort into staying straight and let the bit do the work.

Remember that all wheels are not the same. If you start with an off center wheel your rebore will be off center too!

I'm sure Bob will back me up when I say that occasionally you muff one no matter how careful you are, and it may take a few until you acquire the feel for reaming hubs. Piloting and patience will keep the muffs to an acceptable level. Dead hubs make good scenery fodder!

Good luck!


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bill Hall said:


> I'm sure Bob will back me up when I say that occasionally you muff one no matter how careful you are, and it may take a few until you acquire the feel for reaming hubs. Piloting and patience will keep the muffs to an acceptable level. Dead hubs make good scenery fodder!
> 
> Good luck!


Bill you the man, man. That is a nice tip on how to get some nice bits for a good price and you are right. Sometimes you do mess up (me and everyone else also lol)...not often but, that is how I know about the clown car affect. Wobble, wobble.

T-Jet Racer, Adding this picture of the hand drill that you use by rolling between your fingers below. I never showed what it looked like. Duh! Take an AFX rim with you to the store and find the biggest bit that will fit into the hole...you got the big bit now. Also take the pull-back rim with you and find a bit that won't fit in the hole. Now you have the other bit. There is not a lot of difference in the bit sizes but, this makes all the difference in the world! Good luck and hope you get some smooth running rims from this.










Now for a lighter side of HobbyTalk....I found a Godzilla for my track layout!! Yes! Sweet! Touched up his teeth, nails and good to go Godzilla from Goodwill store for $3.99. Oh I was just sooooo excited when I found him and the kids love him.










My 3 1/2 year old son doesn't like the fact that I put the Vega in his mouth. He wants to drive it. I just got another body in the mail from the bay today. The Vega stays!










Painting bodies for me this summer and will finish my small layout via mountains and other Desert like landscape this winter during the snow here in Nebraska. I am going to put a tape measure to Godzilla and find a King Kong the same size as my layout theme has gone from Arizona Desert themed to Las Vegas Monster Bash baby! Ooooooooh yeah got the ho (well some what ho) flashing Welcome to Las Vegas sign and not afraid to use it!










There is a guy from the Johny Lightning Diecast board here that does PIPs Projects in Progress. I gotta get busy and paint up some of these rims for my AW 55, Yellow Trans Am, AFX Jeep, a black Henry J and a couple other bodies to get the PIP treatment. He hasn't done slot cars before but, is willing to do them. I got a bunch of Toms JLs from way back that I am hoping to trade for the labor. He takes money also. His name is Squirrel something????

I put a set of chromes on my yellow T-Jet Chevrolet baja truckster 3 weeks ago and it runs smooth. The rear JL axles are kinda weak and the rims come off hard. It is just as important to not bend the rear axle as it is to drill the hole straight. The fronts should be fine using the pullback axle. Again be carefull not to bend this either. I use a pair of pliers and/or Leatherman needle nose along with a small screwdriver and a green scotch bright piece to hold the front rim and twist them off. 

I have heard some people here say that they wish AW would sell some other rims for these cars. What an Idea....Hope they do but, may be worried about there axle bending. Not sure when AW took over if they made the rear axle any better.

Another I dea I am going to try is to strip the Fast -n- Furious 5 spokes and paint them white. These may or may not look good on Trucks and Jeeps. I realy want those old style white 8 spoke steel rims made....Oooooh that would be something.

Will post more pictures of these rims here soon, Bob


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Great thread Bobzilla. I haven't done anything with my pile of JL rims, didn't even think of it. I have the Pasche and have been doing the jars, but it does come with the top bowl. The jars and tubes are a pain to clean up. I'll have to try it, but will need to have some kind of rack to hold it between coats. I never wear gloves either so depending on what I am painting, I get a little two tone.
Jim


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Econo stands and coathanger theory*



T-jetjim said:


> Great thread Bobzilla. I haven't done anything with my pile of JL rims, didn't even think of it. I have the Pasche and have been doing the jars, but it does come with the top bowl. The jars and tubes are a pain to clean up. I'll have to try it, but will need to have some kind of rack to hold it between coats. I never wear gloves either so depending on what I am painting, I get a little two tone.
> Jim


Go Go Bobzilla! Good one Jim. LOL.

Moons ago and prior to foolishly selling off my Iwatta just before I came back to slots; D'oh! I bent up a little "no bucks" air brush cradle out of a coat hanger that worked great for years.

I found that you need to use one of the old school heavy gauge black hangers rather than the cheesy new ones that drop your coats on the floor. That way your econo stand wont be wigglin and jigglin like jello.

I mounted it two ways, either just clamping it in my shop vise, or zookin' it down to the bench top with my screw gun. (I bent a little loopty on the end for lagging it down.)

I also made up a couple of painting stands from the smaller gauge coat hanger. Just twist up a wide base and bend a whip up. Then I mounted a gator clip on the end. For bods with posts I wind a longer "Volks" screw in and clamp on. They can also be easily screwed down, vise mounted, or secured with duct tape, but I usually just hold mine in my hand so I can paint my hands like Bobzilla. 

For postless bods I use any number of tricks. Roadrunner's slave chassis idea works really good (pretty sure it was "1st Dave" that posted that one up). Sometimes I just use a blob of two sided tape and grab it with the gator.

Hijack completed. Return your seats to the upright position. :wave:


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

I've been using the JL pull back rims for a while now, once I discovered the TOMY GPlus tires fit well on them, I was off and running. I like using the gold Chrome rims, but they;re getting harder to find

Stripping them and painting them another color is great idea!


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Gold ones....oooooh yeah*



videojimmy said:


> I've been using the JL pull back rims for a while now, once I discovered the TOMY GPlus tires fit well on them, I was off and running. I like using the gold Chrome rims, but they;re getting harder to find
> 
> Stripping them and painting them another color is great idea!


videojimmy,

Ooooh yeah the gold Chrome rims. Don't have any but, I used to. Dang it.

Check this out....When I was stripping my Chrome rims the other day there was some remanance of Gold Chrome on several of them. Hmmmm maybe they made to many Golds and coated over them again in chrome???

Will post some more pics here in just a bit of my new batch of Turquoise rims. There will be many more pics of these and maybe some other stripped rims to follow in the near future. Pics posted  

Bill Hall,

Did you notice that I didn't drill my holes first. Doah...got in a hurry. I ended up messing up 2 of the rims when drilling them. The other 2 came out perfect (Whew!!!!) You can tell right away if the hole it off by looking at it and seeing if it is centered in the lugnuts. This bad boy Nomad runs smooth and fast. I can beat this thing to death and it won't matter because soon it will not be a show car anymore but, instead a PIP.....yeah baby!


























Just mounted up the rims and here are the pics. This is going to get the distressed look so wasn't worried about messing up the paint on the rims. I just painted these and then clear coated them late last night. So you don't aggravate yourself. Just walk away from the rims after painting them and let the suckers dry for several days or you are going to bugger them up...yeah this is hard to do.










Oooooooh Noooo they say he's got to go............ go,go Bobzilla.










Painted up a 57 Turquoise also for a comparison. 55 is a bit large as noted by others on Hobby Talk some place else. The AFX REPOP may be just a tad short also. In my opinion the new AW 55 looks pretty darn good and is not that much longer. Just a bit longer in the back is all. These are both going to get the PIP treatment...distressed look by the Squirrel JL guy....I will get his name and a link to his PIP thread here soon. He charges $10.00 each or will take some trade for JL die cast cars. That is a heck of a deal in my book. Have about 6 or 7 cars that I am sending him in the near future. 


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=185389&page=1&pp=15 Make sure you look at page #3 and check out his Christine....Oooooh what a car and what a Sweet Movie. Love the gas station scene...Vrooooom, vrooom, Booooooom!! I love Camaros but, sometimes its just fun to watch them blow up! he,he,he



Bobzilla....that is funny. Got to look for a matching sized King Kong tonight on the bay!!

Bob (aka Bobzilla)


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Dat "fiddy fie" is skookum.

Nice cream puff Bob. Really nice!


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bill Hall said:


> Dat "fiddy fie" is skookum.
> 
> Nice cream puff Bob. Really nice!


Thanks Bill

Almost forgot to tell everyone how I mixed the paint for a real close match. Well look for that here soon. 

Gota go back to fun, Bob


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

Nice work!


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

I like those rims ! good job! it looks more muscle and realistic (sp?)...

maybe i should try it on my 69 dodge chargers and superbirds.. 

Wes


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Go Mopar!*



WesJY said:


> I like those rims ! good job! it looks more muscle and realistic (sp?)...
> 
> maybe i should try it on my 69 dodge chargers and superbirds..
> 
> Wes


Wes,

Checked out your gallery and love those Super birds. Do it and post em' here (no hurry) NOW! I may just have to do up a couple of Purple AW ones (stripping off the Purple paint and repainting first) Old School Nascar style with these rims in the future. My first car was a 72 Duster with a slant 6 -225 and it was a fun car to drive. Go Mopar! 

I have not done this yet but if you wanted to use these on Tyco cars it might be possible? Just have to get different size hand drill bit and maybe some trimming?










I took this chassis out from under one of my 57 Nomads to put under this 55 Bel Air. This 55 is one of the cars getting sent for the PIP treatment (When this gets some weathering, surface rust and primer those red rims will blend in much better). These rims were the first ones I did and painted them with a paint brush using flat red paint. Hey you don't have to have an airbrush to make these rims look good. Use flat paint, not gloss! You can always clear coat later to make look gloss if you want that look. Flat paint is easy to work with and very forgiving...Flat paint said, "I forgive you." Flat is my friend forever.  

Going to strip the paint off the 57 Turquoise Nomad that I just painted. I just don't like the way it looks mounted up on a chassis in that color. 










Here is another future PIP that I got ready tonight. Hmmmmm what are those rims. Yucky Fast -n- Furious ones. Well I painted the 5 spokes yellow (Yellow shows up much better in person than the crappy pic) and think they will be perfect for the PIP treatment look (have high expectations for what this thing is going to look like when done!!). 

Yeah those O-Ring front tires don't look right on this car and will put some Reproduction Good ~ Years on when it makes it's way back to Nebraska to fill up those front wheel wells better. 

Well the next one you will see here is a Henry J in "BLACK" by Dash with White steelie rims. Having this one done in heavy surface rust and some primer. Now maybe I will be able to see this thing on the track.

Thanks everyone for your Complements! I see so much Cool stuff here it is just mind boggling


Bob


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## slotrod (May 21, 2007)

*Diecast good source for mag wheels*

I purchased a Dashmotorsports Hot Rod body but wanted to add retro wheels. I found some cars from Dub diecast that worked. All I did was add silicone hot rod tires.


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

bob - i will do them soon.. when i have time!! i really like that yellow firebird  looks really cool. 

slotrod - cool ratrod car!! that whitewall really set it off. :thumbsup:

Wes


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

The JL rims also screw onto the AJ's steel axels with as if they were made for them


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

slotrod said:


> I purchased a Dashmotorsports Hot Rod body but wanted to add retro wheels. I found some cars from Dub diecast that worked. All I did was add silicone hot rod tires.


Love those Dubs rims...Gotta try that. I have a black Dash body just like that sitting in front of me now with red interior...Hmmmmmm 

Thanks for the Dub rim heads up, Bob


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

The hub from JADA dic cast cars are also real nice. 
AFX specality tires fit perfectly on the rears.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

I am in LOVE with the AFX Datsun Pickup now. Painted this one up to make it look like an original Datsun color. Looks beter than the picture. This is going to get PiPed also. Am going to get more of these Mini Trucks in the future for painting up in stock like colors. 










I had a red 1994 Nissan pickup that I loved. Had one more payment to make and somebody crashed into my Wife while driving it and totalled it out. Wife was O.K. but, my faithfully washed and waxed truck is gone now. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr So used the insurance money to get a 70 Nova. I have sold that now....what a money pit that was.

Just got done doing some work to my real 1/1 Honda Element. Can you say billet grill. Ooooh yeah! 

More to come later, Bob


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

Bob, i like the color green on that truck!! and rims.. good job!! 

Wes


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

Just got done doing some work to my real 1/1 Honda Element. Can you say billet grill. Ooooh yeah! 

Yea, PIMP out that ride, bouy!!


(I think that would sound right just say bout long and drawn out, you will get the sound I mean B o u y!)


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Elements Rule! Yeah Boooouuuuy*



T-Jet Racer said:


> Just got done doing some work to my real 1/1 Honda Element. Can you say billet grill. Ooooh yeah!
> 
> Yea, PIMP out that ride, bouy!!
> 
> ...


Ha,ha,ha.....here are some picks B o u y! Did you know the owner of this board owns a Honda Element? I checked his gallery out and Bam there it was. 

Those white things (plastic light gratings cut to fit with dremel tool) are going in the empty spots below the billet and will get a coat of black truck bed liner spray first (from a rattle can). 

I replaced the front end painted piece with a blue cladding piece to get rid of the black around my fog lights. Also the front end came back from one of my Wife's drives cracked on the bottom (Honey did you notice this crack here? Ooooooh man.  ) and the paint started to peel off the plastic when I high pressure sprayed it. Was going to do this anyways as I already had the front end sitting in my garage. My wife doesn't drive my slot cars.  

Have an extra black border for around my billet and will be getting it painted to match my Atomic Blue Metalic paint. I may also paint the bottom black bumper cover blue. These things are like legos and can change parts around easily. Billet will come off in the winter and a stock grill will go in to take all the Nebraska salt abuse.

This is my second Element (a 2006 Atomic Blue Metallic). My first one was a 2003 Sunset Metallic Orange. Traded the "SMO" in and wish I could have kept it also. Dang it. 

Like anyone cares...this is why I am here. Some day will be able to make an Element slot car body from resin. HobbyTalk is my casting school. Matchbox makes an Element that is already done half in plastic. Just need to make the other part in Resin some day....oooooh that day will come alright. :thumbsup: Then sweet Element slot car driving victory will be mine....all mine!!

Is it O.K. to high jack a thread if you started it? lol Ooooh have a different set of rims on right now and going to put a stainless steel nudge bar on the front soon also. To me this is just like a toy car...change it baby! Sweet!! :wave: 

Bob


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

WesJY said:


> Bob, i like the color green on that truck!! and rims.. good job!!
> 
> Wes


Thanks Wes for the complements. The green is House of Kolor GREEN. Just plain GREEN is the name of it. I need to do more of these in stock like colors and open up a Datsun car lot on my layout...well don't have that much room on my small layout. 

When I rip down my 4 lane 1/32 Eldon track and put up a Tomy 4 lane track on my 4 finished tables in the basement...Daaaaaaaaaaaaatsun baby! :hat: 

Bob


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

videojimmy said:


> The JL rims also screw onto the AJ's steel axels with as if they were made for them


Hey can you post some pictures of some of these you have done please?

Thanks in advance, Bob


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

I got more rim jobs.....coming soon.

bob...zilla


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*New rims...for me at least....old school roadster look!*



slotrod said:


> I purchased a Dashmotorsports Hot Rod body but wanted to add retro wheels. I found some cars from Dub diecast that worked. All I did was add silicone hot rod tires.


Hey slotrod,

I was inspired by these rims and was out at the big Toy Store and found some rims on a VW Maisto die cast. They just threaded onto an AJs axle(I think videojimmy or sethndaddy mentioned the rims just thread onto the axle like they were made for them. I used 4 gear silicone rear tires & removed the treaded thin Maisto tires and they fit like a glove. You can also used some NOS 4 gear rear foam tires also.



















Thanks for all the ideas guys! The front rims are some painted up JL pullback rims that are probably going to be replaced with some chrome ones (after looking at these pics). so, now I have 2 more rear rims for another slot car. Yes! Gotta stock up on these Maisto rims (the Maisto car cost like $2.99 but, was worth it).

Got this chassis a few years ago NOS...gonna run the heck out of this one. Somebody has got to do it. Yep you are looking at a future parts lot donor. lol

I will take a picture of the packaging and car that these rear rims came from in a little bit and post it here. Edit: Done...










I am working on some different front rim and tire combination and will post them up soon. Edit: Done...

These are JL diecast centerlines that come out of the tire and then sanded down the backs a little and the other part is the JL front pullback rim sanded down so, the pull back tire can fit on correctly. I just used Testors liquid glue to put the two halves together and use the pull back front axle. 










For the front rims on my Dash roadster I had to use my hand mandrill to drill out the front pullback rims all the way through because the back side was shortened a bit and this made up the difference in the axle length.










Bob...zilla


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*chrome fronts look better.....*

Yeppers the chrome front steelies look way better on this Woody now.










Just a note: The red car in picture in above post with no rims comes with 4 rims all the same size. The VW Bug comes with those same rims in the front and the rear tires are WAY bigger than the size of the 4 gear specialty chassis rear rims....just so you know. 

Don't think the bugs rear rims are going to be of much use and would be better to find cars with 4 the same size. IMO Iduno...maybe you could put some different rims on the bug or just trade them rim-less here on HT? One mans junk is another mans treasure

Bob...zilla


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Here is a picture of the pull back rims on a Tyco Vette painted up. This takes the toy look away a bit. Vrooooooooom....screeatch!










Bob...zilla


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