# Need help with Poulan Wild Thing 2375



## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Have a Poulan Wild Thing 2375 that wouldnt crank, so I started taking it apart and cleaning it thinking I could find the trouble. I was taking apart the carb looking to see if there was a blockage and if the primer bulb was actually pushing fuel in. Then I broke a line and need to replace it.

Whats the best way to replace the line that snapped?
It broke off flush at that round hole in the pic to the lower right in the bright green casing. Looks like a dot.



Also any guidance on how to get this thing back together and running is appreciated.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Those fuel lines get brittle over time and often have to be replaced every few years. That's the fuel tank where the line broke off, and if you take the fuel cap off you will be able to see the remaining fuel line inside the tank. Just cut the new fuel line off at an angle and feed it into the tank, then with a pair of needle nose pliers grasp the end of the line and pull it into the the tank. Once you have the line installed cut the end off square and install the fuel filter. The other line is a return from the primer to the tank. This line will have a little connector pushed in the end of the line to help keep it from being pulled out of the tank once installed.

Best of Luck... :thumbsup:


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Also if the fuel lines are brittle it may be a good ideal to get a rebuild kit for the carburetor because the metering diaphragm and the pump may also be brittle don't your think 30yeartech?


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

30yearTech said:


> That's the fuel tank where the line broke off, and if you take the fuel cap off you will be able to see the remaining fuel line inside the tank. Just cut the new fuel line off at an angle and feed it into the tank, then with a pair of needle nose pliers grasp the end of the line and pull it into the the tank. Once you have the line installed cut the end off square and install the fuel filter.


So the fuel filter gets attached to the line that goes down into the smaller hole front left faciing the carb? In fishing out the fuel filter and disintegrated lines that line was also broken inside the tank. That line attaches to the side of the carb from the original pic I posted if im not mistaken.



30yearTech said:


> The other line is a return from the primer to the tank. This line will have a little connector pushed in the end of the line to help keep it from being pulled out of the tank once installed.


The line that goes through the hole in the far right (in the base of the cavity), wouldnt that be the one to get connected to the primer bulb?

Also there are 2 posts on that primer bulb, is there supposed to be 2 lines connected to it? 

Here is a pic with the questions on it that might help.



I really appreciate the help on this!


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Been a while since I worked on a chainsaw but if memory serves me correctly, the thin line has the filter attached. It goes to the lower part of the body of the carburetor. Then another line comes out of the carburetor and attaches (I think) to the short nipple on the primer then another line exit the primer back into the tank.
To test this outside the chainsaw follow this on this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCC1qO75zDk


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Sir Thomas said:


> Been a while since I worked on a chainsaw but if memory serves me correctly, the thin line has the filter attached. It goes to the lower part of the body of the carburetor. Then another line comes out of the carburetor and attaches (I think) to the short nipple on the primer then another line exit the primer back into the tank.
> To test this outside the chainsaw follow this on this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCC1qO75zDk


Thank you Sir Thomas! That video really is helpful, I need to go get some fuel line now. I guess 2 different sizes since the holes are different sizes in the green plastic casing.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Don't get the cheapy fuel lines. They get hard fast. There is a brand, don't know what they call it but it's real soft and yellowish in color. I think the small one comes in one size but the larger ones have different inside dimensions and outside dimensions. Take the one you took off with you. If the primer is getting a little stiff, you may as well get a new one. Save trouble later.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Ok, stopped by the local mower repair shop and bought the yellow lines you mentioned Sir Thomas. I showed him the clear line I had left over and he said "I dont sell that stuff, I have this better stuff" sold me a foot of the 2 different size lines I needed. After watching the video again I tested the bulb and looking closer at it there is some tiny text net to each port..one says carb the other says tank. The one that says tank I have the line going to tank to return fuel. I used the crappy line just to test before I start cutting the right lengths on the yellow lines.

Then the one that says carb is connected to the carb and the other line that has the fuel filter is connected to the other side of the carb.

A question:

What is that plastic part in the pic for? A line was connected to it somewhere that was broke. Is this the stop part you mentioned 30yrtech?



after getting it connected I tried pumping, and the fuel never gets drawn in, somethings blocking it in the carb. You can hear a wheezing pressure release sound after its pumped up a good bit.


So I watched another video on how to rebuild a 2 stroke carb, 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k67rtdtXqfY

and figured Id try to dismantle and see.

I got to this portion of the carb and saw this



some kind of silicone stuck in this port.
I removed it and now need to order a rebuild kit it looks like.
Now to try and locate one of those.


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## jerrymc39 (Nov 12, 2014)

I use "Oregon" brand fuel line and I purchase it on line from Mowers4u Inc out of Walworth New York. The two most common sizes I use are 3/16"ODx3/32"ID for the return lines and 1/8"ODx1/16"ID for the fuel line. This company has the best prices I have found over the years and they ship promptly. Look them up on line ---they have a vast inventory of small engine parts.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

murraybummer said:


> Ok, stopped by the local mower repair shop and bought the yellow lines you mentioned Sir Thomas. I showed him the clear line I had left over and he said "I dont sell that stuff, I have this better stuff" sold me a foot of the 2 different size lines I needed. After watching the video again I tested the bulb and looking closer at it there is some tiny text net to each port..one says carb the other says tank. The one that says tank I have the line going to tank to return fuel. I used the crappy line just to test before I start cutting the right lengths on the yellow lines.
> 
> Then the one that says carb is connected to the carb and the other line that has the fuel filter is connected to the other side of the carb.
> 
> ...


Ouch! That's not good. That is a check valve and can't be replaced unless you have the special tools. Before you do anything else. Take a piece of the bigger fuel line you bought. Hold it tightly over the hole and blow GENTLY. If you can so far so good now suck GENTLY. You should hear a click and then you can't suck. If you can, then that check valve has been damaged and the carb may need replacing.
But before you toss it clean it using Seafoam spray cleaner or any other cleaner but not harsh cleaner just in case there are bits of that junk in there. Don't use high pressure to dry it out. Test is again.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Sir Thomas said:


> Hold it tightly over the hole and blow GENTLY. If you can so far so good now suck GENTLY. You should hear a click and then you can't suck..


Gave this a try and the blowing gently allowed the air through, sucking caused it to close. So its good? Whats next?

Also what the heck was that silicone from you think? Was it a seal around that larger cylinder looking disc on the left?



jerrymc39 said:


> I use "Oregon" brand fuel line and I purchase it on line from Mowers4u Inc out of Walworth New York. The two most common sizes I use are 3/16"ODx3/32"ID for the return lines and 1/8"ODx1/16"ID for the fuel line. This company has the best prices I have found over the years and they ship promptly. Look them up on line ---they have a vast inventory of small engine parts.


Thanks Jerry for the info on that!


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

murraybummer said:


> Gave this a try and the blowing gently allowed the air through, sucking caused it to close. So its good? Whats next?
> 
> Also what the heck was that silicone from you think? Was it a seal around that larger cylinder looking disc on the left?
> 
> ...


How does the metering diaphragm look? If it dry or brittle. It may have a slight round impression but if it's really deep get a kit. Also the pump diaphragm on the other side.
If it looks good to you, put it back together and give it a whirl. But if you purchase a kit, remember the metering side, the gasket goes against the body then the metering diaphragm then the cover. On the other side the pump diaphragm goes against the body then the gasket.
I guess the silicone came from an attempt to seal the welch plug. I always us clear fingernail polish.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

The diaphragm central portion looks fine, one of the corners that the screw goes through got torn but not towards the center. Looking at the prices for the rebuild kit part # 530069826 is around $15 plus shipping when the carb itself part # 530069703 is $25 plus shipping. Might just put it back together and try and if its not working buy a new carb. 

Question on the connector part that connects two lines.
Where would that be used you think?
Would it be in the tank for the return or the fuel filter?


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

murraybummer said:


> The diaphragm central portion looks fine, one of the corners that the screw goes through got torn but not towards the center. Looking at the prices for the rebuild kit part # 530069826 is around $15 plus shipping when the carb itself part # 530069703 is $25 plus shipping. Might just put it back together and try and if its not working buy a new carb.
> 
> Question on the connector part that connects two lines.
> Where would that be used you think?
> Would it be in the tank for the return or the fuel filter?


Connect what two lines? The smaller line goes from the filter through the hole to the carb. Now if the nipple on the carb is too big for the fuel line, you need a reducer. Same goes for the Line from the carb to the primer and from the primer back to the tank.
Wait a minute. It's been a while since I've worked on a chain saw. You may be talking about the piece that goes on the end of the return line inside the tank. If I remember correctly, you feed the return line into the tank and fish it out of the fill hole, slip that piece on then pull it until the, what you call connector, comes through the hole. Maybe 30yeartech can tell you.
You can find carbs cheaper on eBay with free shipping.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Had it and then lost it

I put everything together minis the chain part and it fired right up, ran for a few min and then conked out. No gas. So I had some unleaded that I use for the mowers and didnt have the oil to add. So went to ACE and bought the 2 cycle synthetic oil additive. Looked at the Poulan manual and it said a 40:1 mix. So I mixed as instructed and filled it. Then I put the blade assembly together and it just wont turn over. Said to prime it 6 pumps so I did. Have the throttle pulled out and the red lever is set to ON and nothing.

What happened?


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Did you completely take the carb apart including the metering valve, checked the screen and all the ports? 
There should be two ports in the metering chamber. But the other one is just a small hole in the base of the chamber.
The primer bulb just simply purges or sucks the air out of the carb which is then replaced by fuel. The pump diaphragm on the other side from the metering chamber is what continues to pumps the fuel from the tank through the intake line. That pump is moved by the vacuum coming from the engine through the small hole on the carb mount and the carburetor (make sure the gasket is on correctly). The metering diaphragm and valve regulate the amount of fuel that enters the metering chamber. That fuel in the metering chamber is what is sucked into the carb's venturi (throat). When you first start it, you use the choke which creates the initial vacuum that draws the fuel from the metering chamber pass the L screw through the check valves into the throat. Once the engine starts, you release the choke and the vacuum created by the engine continues to draw fuel.
If it runs initially then dies it could mean the pump is not functioning correctly or the run or H port and check valve is plugged up. After the unit is started, can you see fuel moving from the line with the filter on it to the carb? Is there any movement back into the carb between the primer bulb and the carb?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

murraybummer said:


> Question on the connector part that connects two lines.


The connector that would normally be used to connect two lines together, goes on the return line inside the fuel tank. It's there to prevent the hose from being pulled out of the fuel tank. 

The small line is the fuel pick up hose and connects to the fuel pump side of the carburetor, and the other end in the tank has the fuel filter attached to it. 

Then a small portion of hose connects to the fitting on the side of the carburetor by the adjustment screws, this line plugs into the suction side of the primer bulb.

Then the discharge side plugs into the larger return line back into the fuel tank.

If you have it hooked up correctly and it will not prime, try closing both the high and low adjustment screws and see if the primer will charge with fuel. Sometimes the check valves in the carburetor will not operate dry. 
Once the primer has fuel flowing through it, reset the adjustment screws on the carburetor.

Best of Luck....


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Sir Thomas I wish I could explain this, but just after my last post I kept at it priming and pulling and after a lot of this with the choke all the way out as instructed in the manual I tried it with the choke out half way and it began to turn over. A few more attempts at the mid way point and it started running. I cut up a branch and cut it off. With the choke still half out I primed a few times and pulled and right away it was running again. Kept doing this for a while with a big grin. 

Then had some dinner and went back to the garage and tried again and nothing. I noticed that the bulb was sticking now. Pressing in and it took a while before it retracted. 

To answer your question I had taken apart the carb on both sides and cleaned the screens with carb cleaner. I didnt remove them just sprayed them.

I was able to see fuel moving from the return side before I put the cover back on. This last time I didnt take off the cover, just kept striking out.

Would it be best to get an new carb off ebay with the symptoms Im describing?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

If the primer bulb does not expand and draw fuel, then there is a restriction in the circuit somewhere. Check the fuel pick up filter and make sure it's clear and fuel can flow through it. Check the fuel hose to the carburetor and make sure there are no kinks and it's not being pinched anywhere. The filter screen on the fuel pump side of the carburetor needs to be clean and fuel needs to be able to pass through the screen and then make sure the metering needle is not sticking closed. 

Replacing the carburetor is much easier then trying to kit the carburetor especially if one of the check valves is not working good as on many of the newer carburetors, they are not serviceable.

Having to keep the carburetor on 1/2 choke to make the unit run indicates that you are not getting enough fuel to the engine. Either the carburetor needs to be adjusted, or there could be a restriction in the fuel pickup circuit, there is also the possibility of an air leak that can also give this symptom.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

I concur with 30YearTech.
Here's a link on ebay for your carb. If it doesn't show up with the filters on the left checked then go through and check them. Select "New", "Buy It Now", "US Only" (some comes from China, takes forever), "Free Shipping" and "Returns Accepted".
Yours is a Walbro WT-89.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...H_FS=1&_nkw=Walbro-WT-89&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Ordered an OEM for just under $20 off ebay, thanks Sir Thomas.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POULAN-5300...411?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9d22e41b

Once that gets here I'll replace that and do as 30yr mentions about restrictions. There is a chance I didnt cut the line to the carb short enough, left it a little long compared to the original thinking it would make it easier to remove and tinker with without disconnecting the lines. 

Once I pull the fuel filter off the line, what would I be looking for? How do you check and clean it? Or is it a replacement at that point?


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

murraybummer said:


> Ordered an OEM for just under $20 off ebay, thanks Sir Thomas.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/POULAN-5300...411?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9d22e41b
> 
> ...


Just make sure the fuel line does bend too sharply or get a kink. I have one brought to me that wouldn't start. I was told he replaced the fuel lines. When I took it apart I found that the feed line was caught between the carb and the carb mount pinching the line shut. It's crowded in there so you have to be real careful working it all in there.
Don't worry about cleaning the filter. Just flush the fuel tank out, get a new filter. They are not that expensive. Just make sure they are weighted and have enough line to move anywhere inside the tank.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Sir Thomas said:


> Just make sure the fuel line does bend too sharply or get a kink.


This is the case with the line from the bulb to the carb, I had it a bit too long and it doubled over and kinked. So I cut it at the spot where it kinked and had barely enough to connect to the carb. It did start up as it did before only with the choke pulled half way, when I pull the chose all the way out it conks out.

I'll just wait til next week once the carb gets here and in the meantime go get a new fuel filter.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

It arrived this weekend and I noticed its a bit different. Its got a catch that holds the choke closed when pulled all the way out, in fact its only got open and close now. There used to me a mid way spot to have the choke plate half open. 

It fired up only with the choke plate open and the chain spins a bit where it didnt before once its cranked. The chain only spun when the trigger was pulled. Heck though, its running again!!!! 

Should I make any adjustments, or is this all normal stuff?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You can slow the idle down by turning the idle stop screw counter clockwise just a bit. That should slow the engine down enough for the clutch to disengage and the chain will stop turning.

The idle stop screw is the larger of the 3 adjustment screws and usually has a phillips head adjustment screw.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

I concur with 30yeartech. The idle may be set too high. You want to, like he says, turn the idle screw (it keeps the throttle plate from closing) counter clockwise (tip pulling away from the body) lets the throttle plate close a little further. BUT you don't want to turn it to far that it will die on you.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Well I first messed up and turned the screw on the metal catch part then realized you meant the other side of the carb. I tightened back the one I loosened and there were the three adjustment spots in a triangular config. The top of the triangle was the only phillps head the other two require a tool to turn. So the one at the top marked with a "T" I turned the phillps head counter clockwise 2 rotations. The others were marked "L" and "H" on the casing.

Once I made this adjustment it did stop the chain auto rolling. I ran it a min and cut it off, then cranked it back up and that thing was running full throttle chain rolling and all at start up. Is it backed off too much? Or is there something else thats off?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The picture you posted of the newer carburetor, appears to have a throttle / choke interlock. When you pull the choke out, it partially opens the throttle and does not release it until you depress the throttle trigger and it unlocks. It should return to normal idle speed once you do that, but will run at a fast speed if you start it with the choke engaged.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Do you pull the chock every time you start it? You should not have to. The choke is for cold start. If the engine is warm, depress then release the throttle, then crank.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

That makes sense, just have to remember to pull the trigger once its shut off to disengage that lock. Once its been cranked I just keep the choke pushed in and it cranks up. 

Thanks to you both for the help!!!
Youve encouraged me to revisit my craftsman that last I tested/tinkered the coil was bad. Its was this thread here. Might take the coil into a mower shop and have them test it as you recommended 30yrs.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=417579


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