# Help me understand 1s oval esc



## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

I'm new to oval racing and thought it would be fun to get into it while I am waiting in between off road seasons. The thing I do not understand is the 1s aspect of it. From what I can gather it is that the 1s does nor have enough power to use the radio and servo?

Is it true that I can take a regular 2-3s esc and add a booster module to it? I have a couple spare hobbyking speed controllers sitting around and a car I can convert. I'd like to see if I like it first before spending a bunch of money on one. 

So I just have to add this: _TURNIGY_Voltage_Booster_for_Servo_Rx_1S_to_5v_1a

And make sure I don't run the lipo too low? Thank you.


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## nutz4rc (Oct 14, 2003)

Not all 1 cell set ups require a booster. There are several things to consider. Some ESCs have built in boosters and don't need anything added. Is the servo a high voltage digital? A booster or receiver pack might be required depending on the ESC. Sometimes the type of receiver can also have an impact. I have been told (never happened to me) that older Spektrum receivers will sometimes brown out on power on 1 cell. 

Not all 2 and 3 cell ESCs will work on 1 cell. You need to check manufacturers specs. 

All my Tekin ESCs require a booster or receiver pack to run one cell. Some Novaks do and some don't (some Havocs and those designed for 1 cell). Some Hobby Wings have built in booster and require nothing else.


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## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

I have the Turnigy Trackstar 120a turbo esc with the following specs:
Spec:
Max Voltage: 2s Lipo / 6 cell Nimh
Motor limit: 4.0T
Resistance: 0.0003 ohm
Operating current: 120A
Burst Current: 760A
Bec Current: 3A
Bec Voltage: 6v



Programming Options:
Battery Type: Lipo/nimh
Operation Mode: Forward/Brake/Reverse; Forward/Brake Only
Initial Brake: 10% ~ 80%
Drake Brake: 0% ~ 30%
Motor Timing: Incremental
Acceleration Punch: 1-9
Forward Limit: 0% ~ 90%
Reverse limit: 10% ~ 100%
Drive Frequency: 8Khz, 16Khz, 24khz
Brake Frequency: 1,2,4,8,16Khz
Dead Band: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 
weight: 63g (without cables)

I also have an extra Hobbyking X-car 120a brushless esc with the following specs:
• Enhanced throttle response, precise throttle linearity, excellent acceleration and strong brakes 
• Programmable with the Hobbyking X-Car programming card to make adjustments. (sold separately)
• Automatically detects the number of cells within the battery pack. 
• Multiple protection features: Low voltage cut-off protection, over-heat protection, throttle signal loss protection and motor blocked protection. 
• Supports both sensored and sensorless brushless motors.
• Compatible with NOVAK, LRP and ORION sensored brushless motor.
• Built-in cooling fan
• Programmable via USB (USB adapter sold separately)

Specs:
Continuous Current: 120A
Burst Current: 480A
Suitable Car: 1/10 on and off road
Battery: 2-3 cells Lipo (5-9 cells NI-xx)
BEC output: 5.7V/3A switch mode built-in
Motor type: Sensorless and sensored brushless motors
Running mode: Forward only or forward with reverse (user programmable mode)
Dimension: 43 x 36 x 33mm
Weight: 

I haven't bought my servo yet so I could choose one that works if that is possible, what am I supposed to look at? I was planning on buying an extra traxxas receiver since I've already got several traxxas 2.4 systems.


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## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

What specs specifically am I supposed to be looking at when determining my esc will work with a 1s? 

If not, what specifications should I look for with my receiver and servo? 

I would love to be able to use one of the two esc's that I already have sitting around so any option with those would be preferred.


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## nutz4rc (Oct 14, 2003)

Both of these ESCs have BEC so either may work as they are. The second has a lower BEC output so I would go with the first. If you use a booster or receiver pack, either should work. 

With a booster or receiver pack, it won't matter what servo you use as the draw which will be covered by the booster or pack should not have any impact on the overall system performance. 

I have not seen anyone run the Traxxas 2.4 with 1 cell so you would just need to test it. 

If the ESCs are connected without a booster of pack and arent' going to work, you will know as they will be difficult or impossible to program, the servo will malfunction when power is applied and wheels turned, or the system will just not function at all.


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## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

What is "BEC"? 

Will the automatic lipo cutoff still work or do I need to monitor that closely? 

Is there any reason to use both a booster AND receiver pack?


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## nutz4rc (Oct 14, 2003)

The BEC boosts and levels the power so you will not have a brownout form power delivery spikes and drops.

Most ESCs require that you turn on the low voltage cutoff. You will need to make certain it is set for 1 cell or it will think you are low all the time. If the ESC doesn't have one, you can still run it; just stop running when you notice power starting to drop. Don't run it until the car car can barely move or you may over discharge the lipo. 

You need either a booster or a pack; not both.


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## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

The ESC's I have are made for 2-3 cells, so it will shows that the battery is low. Wouldn't that mean I need to turn the cutoff OFF, not on to prevent this?


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## tbrymer (Mar 17, 2011)

*Info*

You can use either of the speed controls you have. Just use a receiver pack or a booster. The BEC that is in these two esc will not work properly because they are not made to work with a 1s battery. This is why you must have a receiver pack or a booster. A booster will take the 1s voltage level and turn it to a 6.0v output to your receiver. The LIFE receiver packs are rated at 6.6v and the lipo receiver packs are 7.2v. Some receivers want only a 6.0v and therefore will not work properly (although mine still work when I over volt them) without a BEC that will take the receiver pack voltage and lower it (Some of these are really cheap on ebay). I hope this all makes sense.


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## wildbillbud (Sep 27, 2003)

BEC.....Battery Eliminating Circuitry. I hate acronyms. Battery as in receiver battery. This came about to eliminate 4 AAs and the problem that went with those.
It is important what amp rating the BEC is....with high amp draw servos.


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## ta_man (Apr 10, 2005)

wildbillbud said:


> BEC.....Battery Eliminating Circuitry. I hate acronyms. Battery as in receiver battery. This came about to eliminate 4 AAs and the problem that went with those.
> It is important what amp rating the BEC is....with high amp draw servos.


That's a big *LOL*.

You don't use a *BEC* when you use a 7.2V receiver pack, you use a *REGULATOR*.


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## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

So if I use a booster or receiver pack, will either of these still have a working LiPo cutoff? 

Also, with booster vs. receiver pack, is one better than the other? If so, for what reason?


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## tbroecker01 (Feb 3, 2013)

blloyd29 said:


> So if I use a booster or receiver pack, will either of these still have a working LiPo cutoff?
> 
> Also, with booster vs. receiver pack, is one better than the other? If so, for what reason?


I use a receiver pack, that way the servo(s) and receiver get constant battery power, leaving the main battery to power the ESC and motor. 

A booster does just that, boosts the main battery power so the receiver and servo(s) get the proper voltage, takes away power from the main battery.

I use a receiver pack in my SK and in my Pro 4, I want the motor to get as much power as it can, plus I've seen too many people in my club have problems with a booster. Yes it's one more pack to charge, but a full charge can last me two rounds (race/practice, practice/practice, or race/race) before it needs a charge.

Hope this helps.


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## tbroecker01 (Feb 3, 2013)

blloyd29 said:


> So if I use a booster or receiver pack, will either of these still have a working LiPo cutoff?


To answer this question, you can still use the ESC's low voltage cutoff with a receiver pack, unsure with a booster.


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## blloyd29 (Jan 15, 2014)

tbroecker01 said:


> To answer this question, you can still use the ESC's low voltage cutoff with a receiver pack, unsure with a booster.


Thank you all for the help, it can get confusing. Things have changed so much since I raced NiCd batteries and custom made parts for an RC10 to be a carpet racer. 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the esc always think that the pack is low because it's reading a 1s as if it's a 2-3s and therefore only allowing partial throttle?


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

I know that the Hobbywing has a settable low voltage cutoff so if the battery is above that it is fine. There are 1 cell specific esc's and all of them that I know of will run 2 cells also.


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## bojo (May 6, 2002)

If run a receiver pack thats the only thing you turn on. Don't turn on the ESC. You leave that off every thing will work


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## Evoracer (Sep 10, 2003)

*Esc*

Noticed you're using a Trackstar esc. I know you're trying to save a buck just like the rest of us but I find the whole "receiver pack,booster,turn this switch on,don't turn that on" situation to be a PITA. I came from years of touring cars and I love oval and wgt. The money I spent on 1cell esc's is money well spent..just to eliminate the aggravation. I use the Viper VTX1 and I just recently bought a Trackstar 1cell (50 bucks). I understand Turnigy has just released a Gen2 version that's even better. The old one may still be found though. 
Enjoy oval racing ! Save yourself the aggravation....just get a 1 cell esc. Viper, LRP, Hobbywing, Turnigy, and other great companies make a true 1 cell capable esc.


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

I did find out that the Hobbywing V3.1 1 cell esc will not work on a 2 cell.


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