# Batboat



## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

I did a search on the forum here, but nobody seems to have done a Batboat WIP. While I'm not ready to post any pics, I am discovering that the PL re-issue of the Batboat (I have the older PL one, not the new one, if the trademark on the inside of the hull is correct -- it shows the Playing Mantis ownership of PL).

I am trying to decide appropriate color schemes (other than what the Aurora instructions call for) and I am discovering some serious discrepancies between the film and tv color schemes (if the pics I have found are correct) and the Aurora/PL release.

Essentially, I think I will have to make my own mind up what to paint things (gee, there's a surprise), but there doesn't seem to be a continuous line for the red pinstripe, even though the aluminum stripe can be done on the hull -- which, btw, is NOT the one from the series -- there are some significant differences. Makes me wonder if there was a boat already in existence that Aurora lifted the body from.

I am also realizing that I am going to have to free-hand the white ovals on the sides of the hull where the flames go -- and there doesn't seem to be room on the side to have them fit very well. One build I did find simply has the entire bottom of the boat white, which is one solution -- but the pics show it as being either black in the original, or light blue, depending on what you are looking at.

And there seem to be more than one surviving Batboat, one of which has the red stripe down the length of the boat, and the other which interrupts for the corrugated step into the cockpit (which is what the Aurora model has -- an interrupted stripe).

Again, I know this means I just have to decide what looks cool...

Other than just sharing what my thinking process, does anybody have any suggestions?

Oh wise ones?

Masking tape for the ovals?

Some kind of pinstriping device, both for the red stripes, and the metallic aluminum (not quite chrome)?

Robert


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

Masking tape for the ovals yes. But I would lay down a "field" of tape on a clean surface like glass or a clean cutting mat. Draw your ovals in a computer program of some kind for maximum precision. You should be able to make one then mirror it for the other side for a perfect match. Lay them over the tape. Secure your drawings with more tape. Carefully cut out the ovals using the drawings as guides and you will have nice, matching oval masks. 

Offhand I can't recall what the Batboat looks like exactly, but if the ovals are white, spray your white first, and use the tape ovals to protect the white. Spray black over. 

Of course you could also use the "negative" parts of the tape masks and spray white into the oval holes.

Same process could potentially be used for the pinstripes--paint pinstripe color first then protect it with tape. Spray main color.

There was a fantastic Batboat build-up in one of the magazines, but I'm not sure which. Maybe Amazing Vehicular Modeler? Someone else may remember, or a google search might discover it.

Hope that helps.

This may have been the issue: http://www.amazingmodeler.com/avm.html


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Excellent advice! Thank you!


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

There certainly is no lack of reference material out there for the original Batboat, made from a Glastron model V-174. Here are a few to get you started:

http://www.1966batfan.com/batboat1.htm

http://www.classicglastron.com/batman.html

http://www.classicglastron.com/phpb...&start=0&sid=d96bb159fe6eb38258603ece660b9ee2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batboat

http://www.66batman.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1268929643/13


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Thank you so much! I had found a few of those, but as I had mentioned, they seem to conflict. Apparently, there were two of them built, and the movie Batboat and the series one seem to have different paint jobs, unless the color on the old photos has altered over the years.


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

Don't have a WIP, but here's a pic of an old PL Batboat that I did a couple of years ago. Painted the hull and deck Testor's Grabber Blue, wet sanding between coats. Let it all dry for about a month (seriously), then did the stripes (with tape) in Tamiya gloss red with a brush, dry brushed silver onto the trim. Used some decals I got from CultTVman. Base in Tamiya gloss black.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Thanks for the guidance. Can anyone explain wetsanding, or direct me to a website that explains it?

I truly appreciate all the advice.

Robert


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

I'm no expert. But essentially, I did what is described on the site below, going over the dry (give it time to dry to the touch and I mean really dry, not tacky; it's still not cured, but you can sand on it) VERY lightly with 600 grit sandpaper and warm water. Then let dry and lay down a wet coat of spray paint, let dry, wet sand, repeat until you get a passable gloss. It takes some time. A good guide for painting that helped me a lot can be found in Pat Covert, Basics of Scale Automotive Modeling: Getting Started in the Hobby, a book with nice illustrations. Again, I'm self-taught in this stuff, learned what I know by trial and (lots of) error. Others may have better suggestions. Here's the wet-sanding web site:

http://ezinearticles.com/?Wet-Sanding-Your-Plastic-Model-Car&id=1368594


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Interesting idea.

Any idea why the wetsanding produces more gloss?

I would have thought it would have made it duller....unless the water somehow gets incorporated into the paint molecules....


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## Ensign Eddie (Nov 25, 1998)

Has anyone tried out the Academy Arts after-market Batboat decals that Cult sells? They are described as "vinyl decals". How is that different from regular decals (if there is a difference)? Seems like a vinyl decal would be thicker than a waterslide.


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

That's what I used on mine. Picture above.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

PF Flyer said:


> That's what I used on mine. Picture above.


They are self adhesive decals right?


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

Yep. Worked like a charm.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

This is my WIP.The ovals are painted on,not decals


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

falcondesigns said:


> This is my WIP.The ovals are painted on,not decals


Are these from the old kit, or the ones that Round 2 has now. I didnt think that those kits were out yet.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Neither,the oval decals are not correct,so I masked them,painted them and used the flame decals.


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## DarthForge (Feb 5, 2009)

On mine I used bare metal foil for the metal trim.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

I am pondering painting the Batboat using the original painting suggestions from the instructions, and trying to make it look like the cover art as much as I can.

I don't know, but the bright blue just doesn't seem to fit Batman to me....

That, and I doubt I can make it look as good as some of you already have -- so taking a left turn on the paint job can help me out there


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Go for it,it's not that hard.Testors Olds Blue is a perfect match for the color on the real craft.Cut with some laquer thinner it will go on smooth and shiney.Then the bare metal for the trim and your 80% done.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

bare metal?

and ty for the advice


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Bare metal foil.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

How does that stuff work?


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## Scott Hasty (Jul 10, 2003)

DocJam00 said:


> How does that stuff work?


Ask and you shall receive...


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Before you apply the bare metal.... should you seal the paint job first... be it with dull cote or a gloss coat?


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I never have,it works just fine.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Great video!


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

starmanmm said:


> Before you apply the bare metal.... should you seal the paint job first... be it with dull cote or a gloss coat?


If you're planning to clear coat your kit, whether it's dull, satin, or gloss, I'd do it before applying the bare metal foil because any of those clear coats will affect it's reflectivity.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Thanks for the advice. Part of me wants to try and free-hand it with one of the metallic paints available....but then, those windows scare me. Using the exacto knife to trim that stuff also makes me cautious, since I don't want to scar the window or the paintjob...

Still need to get those glasses/magnifier/light I mentioned a week or so ago....

But the trimming and sanding and painting continues. The boy is improving his painting skills; I am trying to step back and just do the hard stuff....

By the way, those of you who have done this PL repop, did any of you sand off the DC trademark on the bottom of the boat? Providing I display the boat going left, the trademark is visible through the stand, if I put it at eye level.

Also, glue to stand or not? I have discovered glue and paint don't mix -- still looking for finds around that problem. I prefer to paint the pieces separately, where there are going to be joins with two different colors, and I'm trying to leave the areas of contact as unpainted as possible, but I still find myself looking at the few finished models my son and I have done and cringing at those joins where I failed....


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Well, I am letting my son do as much as possible on this one, which is a) great for him; b) fun for me to watch as he builds skill, and c) frustrating for me as I see the flaws in both the model and our progress.

There is a basic flaw in the kit build, in that there is a line for the chrome all the way around the edge of the boat -- and I have seen pics of the real Batboat being taken apart, and it is an actual layer of metal sandwiched between the hull and the top of the boat. But the reddish orange pinstriping is interrupted by the step into the boat....there is no way to have a continuous line from the intake area and the back of the boat.

Short of doing some redesign on the model (which I do not have the skills for yet), my only answers for this are a) using the metallic line instead for the red pinstriping, or b) having an interrupted line.

Any comments or advice?

Doc


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

Relax and enjoy the build! Seriously, I didn't glue mine to the stand because I like to take it off and look at it from time to time. Just keep it out of harm's way. If you want to glue it, you can carefully calculate and scrape a spot or two of paint from the hull and stand in order to attach it. You can even touch up any remaining bare spots with a brush if you're careful. But I think it's best just to leave it unattached.


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## DocJam00 (May 18, 2010)

Thanks.

And as for the red pinstripe, there is an even greater quandary -- one of the existing Batboats shows it to be an interrupted line, exactly like the model and the art.

But the one from the movie shows an uninterrupted line....

I am starting to wonder if someone built a real one and made it look like the Aurora model, since that was the only basis on which to construct one prior to the internet....

I will have to track down those pics and post them.


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