# Weedeater trimmer runs on choke only



## junkyarddoggie (May 24, 2007)

Hi Guys 

I've got another one here that's got me scratching my head. It's a weedeater featherlite trimmer. It would not start at all unless you put gas down the carb. I orderdered a carb kit, it's a Zama by the way. Put it all back together, will run now but only on choke. As soon as you start to move the choke open it will die. I am about 1 1/4 turns out on the mixture screw.

Any ideas???

Thanks Mike


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

You might need to soak the carb in a bath type cleaner then blow out all holes,cracks and crevases with brake parts cleaner(it doesn't leave a residue). I always suggest when installing a new carb kit to reuse the original metering arm unless the old one is badly worn, the original one has the proper height setting. The metering arm could be why you aren't getting any fuel. Also check the spark arrestor under the muffler to see that it isn't clogged, also check the fuel lines. Post back with your progress and we can go from there. Have a good one. Geo


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I would open the needle further. 1 3/4 turns is not uncommon.


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## junkyarddoggie (May 24, 2007)

I have done both cleaned spark arrestor and opened screw wide open and still the same result. The origional meatering arm was used, I seen your guys post on that subject. What is the correct measurement on that? I believe I have the c1u carb. The carb was soaked cleaned and welch plug replaced. So it is clean clean clean. 

Thanks Mike


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You could also have an air leak causing your problem. 

Make sure that the fuel lines are hooked up correctly (pickup and return lines) to the carburetor.

Did you have the top cover off of the engine? If so there is a small thin O-Ring that seals the crankcase, you need to be sure its in place and did not get torn.

Check the cylinder and make sure it's tight and not loose where it mounts to the crankcase, check the insulator between the cylinder and carburetor and that gaskets are in place. Make sure insulator and carburetor are good and tight.

Good Luck....


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## junkyarddoggie (May 24, 2007)

The o ring seems to be good on the back of the engine. Everything else seems to be tight. I believe the fuel lines are routed correct. The return line is mounted closer to the primer bulb. ??????????

Mike


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

junkyarddoggie said:


> The o ring seems to be good on the back of the engine. Everything else seems to be tight. I believe the fuel lines are routed correct. The return line is mounted closer to the primer bulb. ??????????
> 
> Mike


Yes, thats correct!


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

A C1U would be flush with the carb body(a straight edge across the entire carb). Have a good one. Geo


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## junkyarddoggie (May 24, 2007)

Yes that could very well be the problem. The metering arm is not flush with the body of the carb, There is some gap there. I'll change that arm out this morning and see what happens, will post the results. 

Thanks Mike


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## junkyarddoggie (May 24, 2007)

OK I straightened up the metering arm and replaced the o ring on the back of the motor lengthened the return fuel line so it's in the gas. Still no change. I think It's just not geting enough fuel to keep running. It must have an air leak some where, I just can't find it. I can't really keep it running long enough to spray the engine and see if it revs up any. Any other places to look for leaks besides mentioned above? Any other ideas guys? I know it's not really worth fixing, but I would like to get it going. It's got to be something simple that is causing this. 
Mike


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Did you replace the fuel filter? Perhaps it has some restriction in it.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I really suspect that the carb is still clogged. If it starts with putting fuel into the cylinder, in most cases it shows everything is OK except the fuel system.... which means the problem is somewhere between the intake port and the fuel tank.


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