# BladeRunner Spinner build-w/Lights!



## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well, since we have a few builds of the other BR cars going, I figure I might as well start my Spinner! Of course, I am going for full lights on mine. The car is just too nice not to have lit up and twinkling! For this build I will be using some 30 LEDs (possibly more). Most will be for the light bar, wheel pod lights, underside and then the interior. For the most part I will be using 1.8mm flashing LEDs from Evans Designs. They are pre-wired and ready to go. While I could have done it cheaper by doing all the soldering myself, I just did not want to with this many small LEDs.

This will probably be my lone 2013 Wonderfest entry.

Here is a short video of some of the LEDs for the roof lights. I have another order of lights on the way. This is going to be a slow build as I have several commissions going on at the same time.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Great...I'll be watching this one....:thumbsup:


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Started with moddifying the light boxes on the bottom. 

Stock on the left, modified on the right.



Both opened up.



Testing modified roof bubble with LED. Short video.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*THIS* is going to be so cool!
-Jim


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

JGG1701 said:


> *THIS* is going to be so cool!
> -Jim


You said it!
I've got mine on the back burner as the big E will be eating all my modelling time.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks guys. More to show in a few days. Lots of drilling and filing to do! I just got my second shipment of lights from Evan Designs, more 1.8mm LEDs and prewired surface mount LEDs.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Been working on making the doors operable. I seperated the door glass from the window glass. Next is removing the inner door from the enterior tub. Lots of careful scribing with my pinvise and needle.Picks are clickable.



And we have seperated door glass!



Set back in place to check the fit. Looks good.


More lights!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

UPDATE-

I have both doors cut from the expensive body as well as the interior panels removed. I painted the recessed door panel to darken it. This way I could see the line better from the underside. I took my Dremel with a small cutting ball and ground away the plastic along the bottom of the panel line. This thinned the plastic enough so I could finish the cut with a few passes of my Xacto blade.

 

The door was then fee of the body! A few swipes with Mr. Sanding Stick and the edges were nice and clean.



Here the outer door panel is taped in place. An extender was added to the back side of the door panel to extend it. This makes the door look more substantial. A little photo etched detail to add interest was added.



Both doors tapped up and checking for fit. And one with the window glass set in place for insperation. Looking good! 

 

I'll work on building the actual hinges tomorrow. Enjoy.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Very cool, and very nice work!!

The doors are a hoot!...Nice idea.

Steve


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

*30 LEDs*?  Sure that's enough? :lol: Like Steve said, the doors are gonna look sweet swung up like that! It will really let the interior shine. No pun intended.

HAL9001-


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks guys. I'm not sure how long I sat at my desk staring at the body wondering how I was going to make those right angle cuts at the front edge of the door where it would hinge at. Once I came up with a plan I sat there again, just staring at it, getting the nerve up to start cutting up a $60+ model! Once I started though it went real smooth. If anyone else wants to open the doors I think this may be the easiest way. But what do I know?

Once I build the hinges I will start working on the light bar and the rest of mods. Thankfully, the doors were the biggest mod needing done. Seperating the side windows was just as nerve wracking. Now that that is out of the way, everything else should go smoothly, right?

Right?..........


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

*Never* say that out loud..Murphy or Finagle might hear you...

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Doors are hinged! I started with some small diameter aluminum tubing and some paperclips. The paperclip fit the tubing perfectly with no slop. Sorry, but I dont know the diameter of the tubing, it was in my spares box. I cut off two small sections of tubing. I then cut the large loop off the paperclip and trimmed it to length. As usual, pics are clicky!



Assembled and tacked in place. Some minot trimming to make sure the doors cleared the body.



Some JB Weld globbed on for extra security. The doors now open and close nicely. First major hurdle on this build accomplished.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I got the door stops added. Steel strips were added. I need to go grab some neod... neodyin.... som Rare Earth Magnets..

 

This is the full range of sweep for the door.



Edit- Added video of opening doors.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

And?.. How much did you get done today?

If you ain't buildin on a Sunday...might as well hang out a Furr's


Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Not a lot done on Sunday. There are people in my house that want to talk and spend time with me for some reaso.......oh wait, that's my family! LoL.

I modified the insturment pod. I seperated the ribbed section behind the insturments that will light up yellow. Clear panles were cut and filed to shape. I didn't get around to sandwiching it all back together yet. More shaping needs to be done.

I did realize the door panels were pretty bare and detail-less. I added door handles and some padding or something to give it some surface detail. Not movie accurate, but it looks good. I think.

For the door handles I cut a section of tubing and glued in a half round bit of stock for the handles itself. I then cut a corresponding hole in the door panel and inserted my assembly.

The pads were just sheet stock cut into an interesting shape and glued on. I also added some ribbed detail to drivers door to fill in some empty space.

  

Once I get the insturment pod back together I'll post pics along with a lighting test with a yellow LED.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

If you are going to use Paul's PE set you can save yourself unnecessary carving.

I'll e mail you a pick of the instructions:

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks Steve. I'll order it this weekend. I'm very close to where I need to start modding the interior for lights. I think I will start working on the light bars tonight after I finish off the dash.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Finished the mods to the dash. The recessed section were removed and replaced with sections of clear plastic. Where did I get the clear plastic? Well, I found a 3M magic tape dispenser had a nice flat bottom. I cut two sections out and trimmed them to fit. Everything was then glued back together. A single yellow LED will light this up from underneath.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Save all the bubbles that razors, toys...etc come in. The sturdy clear come in very handy.

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Nice work. Thanks for the detailed descriptions.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Steve, I hardly ever throw anything away. The great thing is my wife will bring me some piece of something she found and ask if I can use it for something! Of course when ever we finish off a can of coffee I always make sure to snatch the plastic lid. They are great for mixing epoxy, JB Weld, paints, etc. Because the lids are that flexible plastic/vinyl combo a few good flexes usually breaks free whateve was stuck to it creating anew clean surface.

kdaracal, thanks for the comments. This is really my first major build that I have made this many mods to. I just wanted to document it as best I could. The Spinner is one of my modeling Grails. Plus, I haven't screwed anything up yet! That's the scary part right now, LoL.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well I have come to a hard realization. I am not going to be able to use my flashing 1.8mm LEDs for the roof lights. Specifiaclly the square lights that total 7, the LEDs are just to big. I can still use the 1.8mm for the bottom lights asthere is more room there. For the top, I'm going to have to go with SMTs. That means I need more SMTs than I have on hand. That also means I need to figure out how to make them all flash indipendantly of each other. I don't want them all to flash at the same time. The good news is that I can get a ton of SMTs on ebay for dirt cheap.

Stay tuned, when I figure this out I'll let you guys know. I may revisit the brass lightbar rail as well....


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Great idea with the clear plastic sandwiched with the kit parts....can't wait to see it lit....terrific work so far :thumbsup:


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## rowdylex (Jan 19, 2010)

robiwon said:


> Well I have come to a hard realization. I am not going to be able to use my flashing 1.8mm LEDs for the roof lights. Specifiaclly the square lights that total 7, the LEDs are just to big. I can still use the 1.8mm for the bottom lights asthere is more room there. For the top, I'm going to have to go with SMTs. That means I need more SMTs than I have on hand. That also means I need to figure out how to make them all flash indipendantly of each other. I don't want them all to flash at the same time. The good news is that I can get a ton of SMTs on ebay for dirt cheap.
> 
> Stay tuned, when I figure this out I'll let you guys know. I may revisit the brass lightbar rail as well....


I don't know if this will help you, but at Culttvman's hobbyshop there is a blinking computer circuit from Tenacontrols that emits random light patterns for computer consoles. 
Comes with LEDs that just attach to the connectors on the circuit board. 
May be you can replace these with the SMD ones, that way you don't need to get flashing SMDs. 
I am a newb when it comes to electronics but I was thinking of getting this for my build, so your thoughts would be welcome.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks guys for the comments! This is turning into labor of love!

I've seen that board. It only supports 8 LEDs though. The roof lights alone total 14 LEDs. If you include the flashing lights on the bottom, you need a board that can blink/flash 23 LEDs. I'm thinking of a bare Jupiter 2 Fusion Core board. That supports 32 (usually) LEDs. If you mix up the LEDs so they are not in a rotation pattern it may work for the Spinner. Would be nice if you could just buy flashing SMTs! The only other option is to learn how to program micro controlers.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I can ask Stan if he would build 3 more boards?







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If you connect the SMDs He might not mind..

Send me an e-mail

Steve


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## rowdylex (Jan 19, 2010)

robiwon said:


> Thanks guys for the comments! This is turning into labor of love!
> 
> I've seen that board. It only supports 8 LEDs though. The roof lights alone total 14 LEDs. If you include the flashing lights on the bottom, you need a board that can blink/flash 23 LEDs. I'm thinking of a bare Jupiter 2 Fusion Core board. That supports 32 (usually) LEDs. If you mix up the LEDs so they are not in a rotation pattern it may work for the Spinner. Would be nice if you could just buy flashing SMTs! The only other option is to learn how to program micro controlers.


Love the idea of the Fusion Core! 
With the Tennacontrols board, may be you could use it for the square lights on top and on www.modeltrainsoftware.com/wig-wag-alternator-circuit.html site there is the alternator with 8 1mm leds which you could also incorporate into the build. Just a thought.

Look forward to your results.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

That's a good idea Rowdlyex. Train modelers have so much cool stuff when it comes to electronics!

Steve, I'll send you an ermail when I get to work this morning.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

WooHoo! I got my Jupiter 2 Fusion Core board in today! 

What? Fusion Core? I thought I was building a Spinner?

I am. I was going to use 1.8mm self blinking LEDs for the roof lights. These LEDs would work fine for the bubbles on the roof, but not for the 7 square lights that are up there too. They are simply to big to fit the square housing. I decided to redo the whole lighting by using SMT LEDs. These are small enough to fit the square lights. However, there are no blinking SMT LEDs. I needed a board to do that. Most boards I found could only support 8-10 LEDs. I needed one that could indvidually flash at least 23 LEDs. That's when I saw a new Fusion Core board on Ebay. This board had multiple flash patterns programmed into it. I had an idea. If I mixed up the order of the LEDs as they were placed on the roof there would not be a "rotation" effect, meaning that one led would light and then the one next to it would light. By mixing them up I could get an "all over the place" flash pattern. Plus, not all the patterns on this board were rotation patterns. 

The problem was the board came built with LEDs already soldered in place. I needed to solder up SMTs that were on wires. I needed a bare board. I emailed the seller and put forth my quandry. He responded by putting up 5 bare Fusion Core boards for sale without any LEDs!! Plus he programmed a random flashing pattern for me! The board supports 32 LEDs but you don't need to wire up 32 LEDs to run the board, I can solder up my 23 and be good to go.

The board arrived well cushioned. It came with a momentary switch to cycle thru the on/off and pattern functions. It had leads already soldered. Same with the 9v snap connector. I just need to solder these to the board and wire up my LEDs. I have colored SMTs on the way. They wont be here for about a week. I will hook up some other LEDs tonight and try and get a test video posted.

If anyone else is interested in this board just PM me and I will send a link. Or just search Jupiter 2 Fusion Core on ebay. He has 3 left I think, the board is white.

Oh, and the cost for this potentially fantastic board? How about $28 with free shipping!


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Simply EXCELLENT Work Sir!!Thanks for sharing!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks. Much appreciated!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

23 bucks...? the other guys better look out.

Can you take a vid and e-mail it to me or post it?
If this thing can rotate with moving gaps...

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Steve, I'm sending you a link to the auction. Scroll down and click on the "video link". It will show you patterns 1-19.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

robiwon said:


> WooHoo! I got my Jupiter 2 Fusion Core board in today!
> 
> What? Fusion Core? I thought I was building a Spinner?
> 
> ...


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=372395

He's the guy I posted the link for about a month ago in the lighting forum,
post #3. He's a great person to deal with and you can't beat the price......:thumbsup: The photo doesn't have the small board plugged in, it is
in the video.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I played with the board for a few minutes tonight. Had to take the wife to the hospital for a 4 day old migrane. Just got home a little after 9p. So far this board is awesome. I just plugged in some red, amber, and blue LEDs to check out the patterns I got. Freakin cool! There are a couple I will use to run the Spinner with. One is very close to the fade in and out of the full size car. You can also control the speed, brightness, and even the direction of the rotation. Can't beat that for $28!!


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

You're talking about the fusion core shown in the above post for $28? I got the same one off eBay and paid $56!  What'd you do, email him some kisses?

HAL9001-


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I wanted to be able to add my own LEDs with wire leads. I didn't want to have to un-solder 32 LEDs. So I emailed him and asked if he would sell the board without LEDs. He said yes and put 5 of them up on ebay for $28 a pop. Just the board, snap connector and the switch. Can we post ebay links here? If not, a Mod can remove it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lost-In-Spa...457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d55530c9

Oh snap! Looks like all 5 bare boards have been sold. Send him an email and he may put up more. I am glad they all sold as he put them up at my request.

This is a pic from the bare board auction. This is his picture, not mine, credit to seller donniejdonniej.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

robiwon said:


> Oh snap! Looks like all 5 bare boards have been sold. Send him an email and he may put up more. I am glad they all sold as he put them up at my request.


Thanks for the heads up....I bought the last one for my J2....I don't mind soldering my own LED's :thumbsup:


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Played around with the Fusion Core disk. Guess what? It will fit inside the model in the rear end. I was worried it would be too big and that I would have to run all the wires down a tube to the FC hidden in the base. But it does fit which is going to make wiring up all the SMTs a lot easier. It sits back far enough that the new bulkhead will cover and hide it from being seen thru the roof windows.

 

So now I will need to cut off the rear top section of the rear end to make accessing the disk easier. Not a big deal as the panel line is nice and deep. A few plastic tabs and some more Rare Earth magnets and it will be all set.

I also started mocking up the light bar. I'm replacing the kits solid plastic stand offs for the bubble lights with aluminum tubing. This will alow the wiring to run down inside the tube and exit under the lightbar itself. This will help keep most of the wiring hidden. 

 

Video of test lights coming soon.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Hmmm...

Small problem with the Fusion Core board. I have not soldered any LEDs to the board yet, Only the plugs for the battery and switch cables. The board was working perfect last night and this afternoon. I turned the power off and watched a little TV and posted here. When I came back I saw that the board was flashing all the LEDs three times, off for a second or two, and then flashed all the LEDs again three times. I unplugged the battery and switch and plugged them back in. It started a pattern but then went back to the same three flash and off sequence. The switch would not control the board anymore. I then switched to another battery and the same thing, all flashed three times and then off. I pulled out each LED and unplugged everything, Then put it back together. Same thing. Frustrated I unplugged everything and walked away. I came back just a few minutes ago and now the board does not do anything anymore.

I have emailed the seller and will wait to here what he thinks. Any ideas here? The board was not miss handled in any way, nothing appears to be broke or loose on top, it was not dropped. The board appears to be very high quality with a thick fiber base and all traces coated. I don't want to start soldering the LEDs yet in case I have to send it back. I can't see how not soldering the LEDs would have damaged it in any way since it was working fine last night and this afternoon. I don't have any type of meter to check things out as far as if the board is getting power.

Here is the video I took this afternoon.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I went back to the beginning and reviewed the build again. If I didn't mention it before ... wow. Awesome work.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks! That means a lot coming from you! I hope to order your PE set soon. Once the ole bank account builds up again! Anniverseries can be expensive!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Try more batteries. Even one in the pkg might be weak.

Try gently bending any prongs..gently...look for things that you can change first..

Steve


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

robiwon said:


> Hmmm...
> 
> Small problem with the Fusion Core board. I have not soldered any LEDs to the board yet, Only the plugs for the battery and switch cables.
> Any ideas here?


First thing I noticed is that you've got red LEDs in a circuit designed for white and I don't think you added the resistors for the different voltage red LEDs operate at, so I'm sure you're pulling too much current though those outputs, not good for the processor or the LEDs.......:drunk: Also, does your soldering iron have a grounded tip? I'm asking because without one you can easily Zap the chip (ESD-Electro static Discharge) when you are soldering anything to the board. Just a thought.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I got several emails back from Donnie. He was able to replicate my problem and said there was a programming error in the Spinner program and is sending me a new board out Monday. I'll be sending this one back so he can examine it.

Teslabe, no grounded tip on the soldering iron. You have much more knowledge than I when it comes to electronics. However I have worked with circuit boards before in my custom built Lightsabers and RC cars. I used to race RC cars in the 80's and 90's and we did a lot of soldering. I know that is no excuse for not having a grounded iron but I do try and be as careful as possible. It is possible that could be what happened when I soldered the plugs to the board. Hopefuuly Donnie will let me know when he checks out this board.

I think I will grab a grounded iron before the next board shows up and only use white SMTs. 

Question though.
Red LEDs use less voltage than white. Even though each output on the board is regulated at 20mah if the red was getting to much voltage wouldn't it have just popped the red? Thanks for your help teslabe.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

robiwon said:


> I got several emails back from Donnie. He was able to replicate my problem and said there was a programming error in the Spinner program and is sending me a new board out Monday. I'll be sending this one back so he can examine it.
> 
> Teslabe, no grounded tip on the soldering iron. You have much more knowledge than I when it comes to electronics. However I have worked with circuit boards before in my custom built Lightsabers and RC cars. I used to race RC cars in the 80's and 90's and we did a lot of soldering. I know that is no excuse for not having a grounded iron but I do try and be as careful as possible. It is possible that could be what happened when I soldered the plugs to the board. Hopefuuly Donnie will let me know when he checks out this board.
> 
> ...


http://www.onlineauction.com/index....ndBid=&sellerName=donniedjdonniedj&bidderName

Glad Donnie's working with you on this, I've bought many of his smaller boards and added transistors to the outputs so I could drive more LEDs,
great price and cool lighting patterns......:thumbsup: 


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrostatic_discharge

I too raced R/C off road buggies in the 80's, but they didn't have microprocessors in them and as the Die fabrication gets smaller their ability to survive a static discharge becomes less likely. The ugly fact is that most of the time they don't fail right away, they suffer from what's called a "latent failure" that may not show up for days, weeks or months later, like after everything is all buttoned up......:drunk: Every time you solder with an iron that doesn't have a grounded tip you run the risk of a static shock you can't even see. As more and more of the effect kits turn to micro controllers the more you need to think about being grounded. Here is a picture of my work station, I know it needs cleaning...... But it's a grounded station, (1) grounded soldering iron with temp control set to 600 deg F, (2) grounded wrist strap for handling the electronics and last but not least, (3) grounded mat to work on. This may look like over kill but I've yet to lose an effect circuit in any of my builds......:thumbsup: 

As for the question of the red LEDs, the outputs are not "regulated" but are
rated at 25ma (sink/source) max and without the correct current limit resistors for the red LEDs, they will pull more current through those outputs then both the output or LED can handle for too long and will eventually fail .......:freak: I would suggest an inline resistor to properly adjust the current for the red LEDs, small 1/8th watt "Axial lead" would work fine and could be placed anywhere in the wire going to the SMT LEDs. 

Sorry for the long post I just hope there's something here that might keep you or anyone else from the horror of a dead effects board.....:wave:


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Not a bad effect with just using flashing LEDs(no board)
_annnd_ my head dosen't hurt from banging it into the wall....lol 

Click the pic







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The little tiny roof lights will be SMDs and flasher board driven..but these are very simple and I think they look cool.

Steve


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Glad to hear about your progress. 

If you have some free "slots" on the board, how about adding some random flashing LEDs at the dashboard of the Spinner?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Teslabe, thanks for the info and links. I have found several adjustable temp grounded irons on ebay. I'll be ordering one next payday.

What did you race? I started out with the first issue gold tub RC-10. It had the super high tech servo operated ceramic wiper speed control!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

robiwon said:


> Teslabe, thanks for the info and links. I have found several adjustable temp grounded irons on ebay. I'll be ordering one next payday.
> 
> What did you race? I started out with the first issue gold tub RC-10. It had the super high tech servo operated ceramic wiper speed control!


You're welcome.....:wave:
I had a Tamiya Baha Buggy, I added working headlights and flashers in the stock plastic body for show and a light weight body for companion. I designed my own ESC with reverse using power FETs, something almost no one had ever seen back in the early 80's.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I also had a Tamiya Hornet and a Grasshopper among others. Tore the crap out of them. I now run a Traxxas T-MAXX 3.3.

New board has shipped. Should be here in 4 days.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Replacement Fusion Core arrived yesterday. I will test it out tonight with white LEDs only! I have 100 SMT LEDs coming soon hopefully. I will pick up a spool of magnet wire this weekend. Once the LEDs come in I'll be back on this build with more actual building commencing. Everything is ready to be put together, just need the lights now.

I modified the center stack on the dash with a clear sliver to be lit with a blue LED from underneath.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Hmm, I thought I posted an update. I must not have saved it. Oh well.

I don't think I have ever built a model that needed so much attention before I could actually start building the model!

O.K. got the vertical side parts cut out. These will be replaced with clear plastic and lit with at least one SMT LED. 



Also got the front wheel pods opened up for lighting as well. Turning out real nice so far.

 

And a short video on the new FC board. The flash pattern for the Spinner is much smoother without the dead spot the first board had. It is now all one smooth pattern. You can also control the flash rate. One thing I like about this program is that the lights don't just blink on/off, they actually fade in and out. You can see the effect when I slow the pattern down in the video.

Enjoy.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Very nice work.
Yeah I think the kit was desigined to make profits from Fanboys..not to be lighted. if I have to build more of these pigs the first thing I'll do is cut out the interior.

Very cool! I like the phasing on the flashers

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Build more? I shutter at the thought of building another! I think I am done with all the mods that need to be done. Just waiting on the SMTs to arrive and order the PE set.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I usually get lots more of a model than I want in this business... I've built 6 spindrifts,3 chariots, 3 orions, I have 2 more jupiter 2s sitting here and 2 more big spindrifts..lol
I got me a feelin I have several spinners in my future..

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

From the sound of it, I would say so!:thumbsup:


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Has anyone ever used lighting gels to color their lights? Here is what they look like with two coats of Tamiya clear acrylic. I was just wondering how thin these gels are for lighting equipment. I may buy a sample pack off ebay and see. With the paint and then behind the (not very) tinted kit lenses they may be good enough.



Hmm, didn't realize it wasout of focus, sorry...


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Still waiting on LEDs. So, in the mean time I'll throw this in on what I did tonight. I replaced the TCSS 2w speaker on my custom built lightsaber, Magister. I used an awesome 2w 8ohm High Bass speaker from Rail Master. This thing kicks butt over the TCSS speaker. It's much clearer and mucho louder! Check out the video.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I don't understand why the tamiya clears _and _the gels.
Red and blue lights have long wave lengths...you just need to dim down the white. if it's still too bright, a dot of black where the led is brightest.

Just be patient and add 3 coats of tamiya..or so.. you could also 
add food coloring to future..but that takes a _lot_ of repeated dips...

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well it was actually going to be one or the other. I'm pretty happy with two coats of the Tamiya clear on the LEDs. I was concerned that I would have to add so many coats that I would loose brightness to get a good color. The lenses on the bottom lights are so thin in terms of color they would appear white with a light behind them. The top bubbles have a lot more color to them so those LEDs probably wont get tinted.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

*That's* what I forgot to tell you...

I dipped everything in future, then even the colored plastic got the matching tamiya clear, _*as well as *_the leds...sorry. From my vids you can tell I got good color saturation.

I just was wondering if the boards that Stan built for this kit are stepping down the power a lot? (So I'm not fighting too many lumens)..I'll ask Stan

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Are you saying your lights are too bright or not bright enough?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

They are poifect. That's why I was wondering if Stan stepped them down , since I only needed a few coats od tamiya clears..to get great coloerd lights.

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Hey all. I've been busy soldering up SMT LEDs for the last couple days. I just got an envelope in the mail today from a friend. It contained two sheets of red and two sheets of blue Lee filters. These are from the samle pack and are about 2 inches by 4 inches. They are super thin acetate and will be perfect for making new colored lenses for the square lights on the roof and bottom of the Spinner. I'll post some pics tonight with a lighting test. I might even test to see what just a small sliver of filter on the LED itself looks like too. I could use the kit lens and then a sliver on the LED. That way I wouldn't have to cut these hard to get filters up too much. Hmm......


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

If the fog light lenses behave the same way as the bubble lights, just future and paint the kit parts in tamiya clears...they look good when done and have nice color saturation. 

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I've done a few with Tamiya clear red and blue but it seems to cut the brightness of the LED almost in half. That was with two coats of paint. These filters are super thin and very clear but saturated with color. I'll post a comparison tonight and go with what looks best.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Worked on the bubbles. I drilled a hole in a sheet of styrene. Then I threaded a completed SMT thru the hole. A drop of epoxy secures the LED in place. Once set, I glued the bubble over it.



Once all were set I cut them apart.



Then I trimmed around the bubble with curved Lexan scissors.



Then the wire threaded thru the new standoffs. Not glued to the standoff yet. Just a proof of concept. It works!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I got the center headlight sorted out. I made "neon tubes" out of stretched clear sprue. There are two SMTs lighting this, one on each end. However, after testing it I decided the front clear cover needed to be frosted to diffuse the lighting. After a quick sanding it looks great. The bad part is now you can't see the tubes inside anymore. Oh well I can live with it!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

It's not too late to dim down the nose light SMDs and polish the window so you can see the tubes. I think the effect of the two lighted rods is cool enough to be worth going back a step or two.....?

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

The lights appear brighter in the pic. I may throw a resistor on them and see what it looks like.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Or you could just add some tinted white glue to the leds...to cut down on the candlepower?..youll need to polish and dip the front cover in future to get clarity back..but I think it will look very nice.

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Future you say?

No access to the SMT themselves, they are flush mounted to the sides of the housing. Look on your kit, see the two holes for the kit tubes? I filed that down a bit to make a notch between those two holes for the SMT to fit in. The faces are inside the housing. With the sanding and then a dip it may make it clear enough to get a decent effect.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Yup, get one of those four sided nail sanding things at the grocery store..sand the clear cover with the fine grits.... when it's only cloudy, give it a dip or two in future..that will restore clarity.

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Dippin tonight. And yes, after experimenting with different combinations, I'm going Tamiya clear over the domes w/Future. I tested painted SMTs, Lee filters on the SMTs, and Tamiya clears on the domes. Best overall appearence was the Tamiya clears on the domes.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Steve, I dipped, actually brushed, the front cover with Future last night. You can see the rods now. But it still doesn't replicate the look of neon tubing lighting the area however. Since the light source is on each side instead of a full length tube glowing it isn't the same. Oh well, you can't have everything! I'm happy with it though. I'll post another pic tonight. 

Did I ask or did you post what shade of blue you used on yours?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

O.K. guys, I'm getting back to this this weekend. I just got my figures from Culttvman. Fast shipping, I got them 3 days from the day I ordered them Very cool. I also have the PE set in route as well from Paul's site. My stepdaughter and two Grandkids are away for the weekend, and the modeling desk is cleaned off. I have two months before Wonderfest to finish this up. I already built a new slanted back wall for the cockpit so I'm not sure I'll use the PE part. I have it pretty well detailed out. I'll post some pics of it tonight.


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## rowdylex (Jan 19, 2010)

Great to hear! Between you and Steve, I have been starved of some Spinner goodness! 

Can't wait to see her lit up in all her glory.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks buddy! Yes, I needed a break from this. I also had other non modeling projects that took my time away from it. Soldering up 30+ SMT's is a bit of a strain on the old eyes and nerves.

One would think that with all the clear parts a kit like this would lend itself well to lighting. One would be wrong. I think Steve alluded to this as well. 

It will be done for Wonderfest. Once I get Paul's PE I will really be able to speed things up. Looking forward to getting back on it.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Ok, I'm micro soldering today..actually cauterizing my hand in a few places(not used to working under a magnifier.)

Robiwon, if you have some questions I didn't answer Pm me or re ask please.

I just used tamiya clear blue on the blue domes...

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Yuup! I'm using the Tamiya Clears as well. I actually have all my domes dipped. However, I have a small problem. One of my cats got on my desk last night and made off with a wired red dome! The little *&%$#@!!!!! Hopefully I can find it!!!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

If you are out of spares I'll send you a clear one.

The carpet Monster Has recruited a new Minion....beware!!!

Better spill some spendy booze on the carpet....Remember, it's bad luck to be supersticious...

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I forget if it was here or at SSM but someone was looking for the clear domes and I sent him all of mine. I'll let you know tonight if I need one. Thanks!!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Time for an overdue update folks.

So after taking a break I am back on this build with renewed vigor. I have Paul's PE set on the way. I'll use a lot of the stuff in there but I wanted to build my own rear wall. I started out with making a tracing of the body to give a the correct curvature of the roof. I traced this by standing the body up on a sheet of styrene. I cut this out and made a score for the bend. 




Final fitting to the body was made until I was happy with the result. To shore it up, plastic rod was glued across the score line on the back side to secure the angle.



Next step was adding some greeblies for detail. I need to hit the cheap jewelry section for cheap chains and bracelets (the snake kind) for the hose and tubing that is dominant in the cockpit to finish it off.



More greeblies will be added once the body is mated to the chassis. Next is going to be building the new seat frames and mounts for the new floor.

Stay tuned, more to come...


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Besides more cowbell, your gonna need some electric guitar string...

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Hmm, not sure of any music stores around me. I'll have to look into that. How flexible is guitar string?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

When I did my speeder bike I replaced the "exhaust pipes" and throttle wires with electric guitar strings. The thicker strings were hard to bend (needed pliers), but both diameters held their shapes very well once bent.

http://www.starshipmodeler.info/gallery4/pb_sbike.htm


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Dan at ODG researched the crap out of this kit.
He sent me some, if I have any left..I gotta look for it, I'll send you some:


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

I used guitar strings on my Sedan build....


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## jakob2121 (Dec 14, 2012)

Another vote. I used guitar strings glued to Paulbo's photo etch details myself. Well, a leftover G from my Mustang bass. Perfect fit.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks guys. I will have to look into guitar strings. Doesn't look like anything would be better.

I followed your build of the sedan Miniaturesun, and it is fantastic!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

When I got into work today the ParaGrafix PE was sitting in my mailbox. I spent a good deal going over this. Looks very nice. Can't wait to start replacing my console panels with the new ones. This will make ligthing it so much easier. Instead of a lot of fiber optic, I can light the buttons with a single white and use Tamiya Clears.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

robiwon said:


> Instead of a lot of fiber optic, I can light the buttons with a single white and use Tamiya Clears.


Use a cocktail stick to apply a tiny amount of white glue to the holes in the etch after you've painted and weathered the panels. This will dry clear to form a 'lens' and can then be overcoated with the Tamiya Clears....you can just make out the 'lenses' in this shot....










:thumbsup:


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

That's what I was saying back in ..November?.. wait for all the stuff to show up before you start scratchbuilding /lighting... Less dead ends, side tracks, false starts, cul de sacks...lol.. Ask me how I know...HEE hee

Steve


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

This is a really interesting build Robiwon. I contacted the seller about the modified Fusion board he made for you to see if he can make one for me. This is a great thread with lots of information. For my particular build, I think I'm going to mount the board in a base for easier access. The Fusion board will take care of the flashing lights. Then I just need to run a couple of LEDs for panel lights. I've been thinking about how to hide the wires from the flashing LEDs. If I can find some metal micro tubing and bend it, but the bend radius might be too tight. Another alternative would be to cut the tubing into two pieces with a 45 degree angle. thread the wire through them add a little CA to the cut ends with a little black shrink wrap for extra support. The third alternative would be to wrap the wires around the posts then hold it in place with some black shrink wrap. That might be the easiest way, but it might add more bulk to the post. 

Just some thoughts I'm having. Great build Robiwon!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I don't want to come across the wrong way.
But untill you have tried to fit, hide..install...etc. You have no idea what you will be dealing with. This kit is kinda like building a spinner from an AMT mustang. Open your kit box...see where the kit helps with lighting..see what you will need to modify. And Then you need to build the lighting devices.

I await the pics from your build.

Steve


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

There were only a few bits from the PE set I knew I was going to use, mainly the console faces. I'm planning on using a few more from it though including the headrests and the swing arm computer, with mods of course. It is a great set of PE and Paul needs to be commended for his work on it!

I said it before and I will say it again, this kit looks like it would lend itself well to lighting what with all the clear parts. But like Steve and I have discovered, it will try your nerves and skills as a model builder and push you to your utmost outer limits of sanity!

There is so much planning, scratching of your head, figuring out, scratch building, etc. just to do a decent job on lighting this kit it makes you want to never light a kit again! However, it can be done, as we are proving. 

I am past the point of trying to figure out a way to hide even the thinnest magnet wire I am using to light the roof lights. You will see some wire here and there but it's all good. 

tedkitus, the Fusion Core board was my saving grace on this build. It's powered by 9v, came programmed with a custom "Spinner Flash Pattern", the seller was very easy to work with and understood my needs, and it was bloody cheap! The other 1.8mm LEDs I am using are also 9v. So once the electronics package is buttoned up I will be able to run the whole shebang on a 9v wall wart. 

Tonight I will finish up mods to the seats and consoles. I think I might be close to actual assembly!!!!!!

Steve, you still have that extra bubble dome? My cat seems to have hidden the one he snatched off my desk in Never Never Land. Anyone also have some guitar string scraps your willing to part with? If so, shoot me a PM with payment info.

Miniaturesun, your console looks great. I have had a bottle of Micro Krystal Kleer on my desk for many a year. One of the greatest products I learned about!


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

I understand you Steve. I don't think you're coming across the wrong way. This is just a model that will be a challenge to build. Hard is when I'm designing a dental implant that minimizes healing-installation, and isn't so deep that it doesn't crack your jaw. trying to reverse engineer medical device instrumentation, so it can actually work properly is hard. 

I've looked at the kit, and I'm just thinking about it right now. This is why I have you and Robiwon to figure it all out! Then when I build mine. I can say that it wasn't that hard to build!  LOL! Robiwon, I've sent an email off to the seller, and Steve I'm getting ready to send a note to Stan this morning to see if he can help me out. I'll pay him to just build the boards if that's how he wants to handle it. I'm a mechanical engineer/geek that loves gadgets, so to me this is fun.

One thing that I think that you'll both feel is the huge sense of accomplishment once you finish your builds. It will be worth it once you see the completed kit fully lit.:thumbsup:

Robiwon ban your kitty from the desk! Maybe he's doing his own build in secret.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I'm thinking it's the Cats of NIMH!

I know I have seen a lot of Spinner builds, some with simple LEDs on top. Has anyone seen builds that are fully lit like ours and our Japanese friend?

Tedkitus, when you start your build if you need any help or questions, just shoot us aPM or ask in your thread. I would be glad to help out as well as Steve I'm sure.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Thanks Robi! I'll appreciate whatever help you can give.  The only Spinner that I've seen fully lit is Randy Coppers Spinner using the VoodooFX lighting kit, and it looks fantastic! I was on the fence about getting Randy's kit because it's a pretty penny, and I wanted the Anigrand ISD kit first which I just bought recently, so I settled on the Fujimi Spinner. I still might get Randy's kit later. 

I just ordered TrekModelers DIY lighting kit and painting guide for the PL Refit. I still need to get some aftermarket parts for it, but I've decided that the Spinner will be my first build.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Congrats on your score of some great kits. Make sure you do a build thread with lots of pics, we like pics!

The Anigrand SD is a great one too. Are you planning on lighting it as well? Mine is 2/3 done and needs to be finished.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

I'm going to light the ISD as well. I bought the lighting kit for it too. The seller replied back asking how many modified Fusion boards I wanted. I told him I just need one. I think the Fusion board is the way to go for lighting all the flashing lights. I'll wire the rest of the steady lights separately. I'm not sure how I'm going to light the stripes on each side of the Spinner, but I know that I'll have to mold a pair of clear parts once I cut them out. Any thoughts on that? For a stand I think I'm going to do what Randy did for his kit. Im going to design the logo in Solidworks and have my buddy machine it. He owns a small proto shop.

I did find this: Spinner lighting kit


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

For the side stripes, the yellow ones, I'm building a thin "U" shaped channel that will be covered by a piece of diffused plastic. Most likely cut from a milk jug. It will be lit from each end with my SMT LEDs. The problem is the rear wheels, they dont leave much room to build a light box there. That little project is coming up soon on this build.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Instead of building a light box glue or epoxy he LEDs in place then paint over the epoxy completely. The LEDs would have to be well covered in the epoxy.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Robiwon, 

What voltage SMD LEDs are you using? 9 volt or 3 volt? Im about to pull the trigger for the LEDs from Evans. The fusion board is on its way. My plan is to locate the electronics in a base instead of inside the model. I'll either have to have long pig tails like 18" (I'll ask Evans if they can do that) for discreet connections to the board(s), or use a connector located on the underside of the vehicle with its mating end on a metal tube. That's a lot of connections (23-24 LEDs with + - connections to run through a connector for such a small model. I'll have to look around for a small circular connector there's a couple of possibilities. Need to investigate.

What color is the Spinner anyway? Randy's Spinner appears to be a baby blue color while the spinner in the movie looks like a dark blue? Any particular brand of paint? Tamiya, Vallejo? I think I'll try a couple of different blues from two brands of paint on some sheet styrene too see what appeals to me. 

Robi I'm really liking your build. I think I'm going to separate the doors from the body like you did. It really gives it a nice look to see them actually open and close. One thing I noticed on Randy's Spinner is that when it's lighted the wires go directly to the center pylon and are not hidden. I think it's in keeping with the look of the vehicles used in the movie. They're high-tech but a little kludgey because of the cabling that's visible on the vehicles. I'll need to look at some more pictures. 

I'm trying to get as much pre-planning done and have all the materials I need to start my build. One thing I don't like about the model is the styrene tires. They should be made out of rubber with real rims. I was AT&T the hobby store this afternoon and saw some 1/25 scale rubber tires. I was in a hurry and didn't buy them, but I'll pick them up for a comparison. The scale is only off by a mear fraction.

Really liking yours and Steve's thread. :thumbsup:


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

The LEDs I got from Evans are the 9v 1.8mm LEDs. I discovered these were to big to hide in the bubbles on the roof. So I went with white 3v SMT LEDs. The Fusion Core board runs on a 9v power source but sends 3v to the LEDs. So, for all the roof lights I'm using the 3v SMTs running to the Fusion Core. For all the other lights (cockpit, front pods, etc.) I'm using the 9v 1.8mm LEDs. Both of these will be tied to one 9v power supply that plugs into the wall.

There are several sizes of SMTs, I used the 1206 size. If you go with SMT's make sure you are up to soldering them, they can be a pain. Use magnet wire for your leads. 

I'm not worried either about hiding all the wires, adds to the dystopian feeling of the model.

Oh, and for anyone wanting even more insperation, check out this Japanese blog. It's what got me started.

http://dorobou.blog.so-net.ne.jp/archive/c2302914556-1


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

So you've been using all clear LEDs in your build. . I think that makes sense because I can color the domes and panels accordingly. I think I'm going have to mount the electronics inside the spinner. I found a mini curcular connector, but because of the size of the spinner it would be to big and ruin the look. If the Spinner was larger it would work. 

What about the rest of the LEDs that don't flash. Are you going to hook them up using some proto board and then bring that out to the power supply? It would be easy enough to do. You just wire them in parrallel then bring out two wires to the power supply. I have a new soldering station on the way for this project and other projects that are not model building related, I'm rusty so I need to practice a bit. 

Awesome link! That helps me out a lot too.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Yes, all white LEDs. I'm using Tamiya clears to color what needs to be colored.

All of the 9v LEDs from Evans will all be wired together. The site says one 9V can power like thirty or so of their LEDs. So they will all go to a simple buss bar and then down to the power supply. Hitting the hobby shop this weekend for supplies and paint.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Great!
I just pulled the trigger on the LEDs. I have a selection of paints all picked out from mega hobby. I went crazy on the paints, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I have 53 tamiya colors picked, knocked down the price to 1.91 a bottle. Plus the $15 off for the coupon code. I like tamiya paints, but I'm going to get some enamel paints later prorbably a different brand. I just hate not having a wide variety of paint. I just can't stand not having everything I need at my fingertips. I just need a few more things after I get the paint. 

I'm basically starting from scratch. BTW Trekmodelers refit painting guide came in the mail today. It's an awesome guide. A lot of time and effort was put into the guide, and it shows. It's profusly illustrated, and he takes you step by step through the painting process including specific paint selection. Well worth the $35 bucks. It's 150 pages give or take a page or two.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Cool, looking forward to your build! Lots of pictures remember!


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Dave from Evans called me today because he had a question about the LEDs I ordered. He was kind enough to swap out the 1.8mm LEDs to 3v, so they can all run off the same power source which in my case will be batteries. I'm still waiting for the rest of my supplies, and I need to get the paints I picked out. The PE set is on its way as is the figures from ODG. Got some other stuff fom Cultman not related to the spinner. PE for the LIS chariot and robot plus dummy templates, and PE set for Robby. 

The modified fusion board came in today. It's actually pretty small. I didn't realize that he programmed the board to have 9 LEDs that don't flash which will be perfect for the the rest of the LEDs. I think that will be enough steady LEDs for the inside, headlights, and light bars on the back and the light bar in the front of the spinner.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Yeah, the Fusion Core board is great. When I saw his EBay add and he said he would do custom patterns I thought "I wonder if he could do a Bladerunner pattern". I sent him an email and we discussed it and he agreed to do it. He asked for pics and video when I finish mine. He was willing to take a product he sells at a higher price and offer what I needed and reprogram it and then sell it at a much lower price! How many people do that? If I ever build a Jupiter 2 I will definitely be using his Fusion Core in it.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Detail on the rear wall is done. The ducting are two different sizes of cheap bracelets from HobbyLobby. Primed the figures. Even after washing them it seams like the resin is leaching. They both received a coat of Tamiya Fine Surface primer. Well see if that seals them.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

That ducting looks great...I might have to investigate some bracelets for my next project:thumbsup:


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks! Oh, here is a shot of the figures in primer. I still need to add stretched sprue chopsticks.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

If your figures are weeping, it likely won't stop. Give them a while before attempting to paint and if they haven't stopped weeping contact the manufacturer and get replacements.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

It was last Friday I sanded both their bums to get them to fit the seats. I left them sitting in the plastic seats until today. I noticed a slightly sticky residue on the seats and their butts. It may have just been a chemical reaction between the two materials. I will keep an eye on them and see what happens. If it is just where I sanded I'll BareMetal foil their butts and leave them as is. Butts have not been primed yet. Nothing has come thru the primered areas yet.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Paulbo said:


> If your figures are weeping, it likely won't stop. Give them a while before attempting to paint and if they haven't stopped weeping contact the manufacturer and get replacements.


Mine are on the way from Cult. I'm confused. What do you mean by weeping?

@Robiwon

The details on the back area looks awesome! I can't wait to start my build! I'm getting closer. I'm still waiting for some more parts to come in. I'm building up some mad money in my PayPal account so I can finish getting the rest of my stuff. Got some stuff on eBay that I'm selling. After those transactions are comeplete, I'll have plenty of money to finish off my paint selection, mig productions pigment kits and washes and a gravity feed airbrush plus some miscellaneous stuff.

I'm really excited!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

When a resin part is not fully cured (hard in the center) or if there was a mistake made in the mixing ratio of the resin when it was poured, it can cause a resin part to leak out a liquid, almost like the part is sweating. Some times this can cure itself as the part continues to harden, some times, based on the cause, it will continue to leach out. Depending on how bad it is some parts may be workable, some may be toast, only time will tell. I'll keep an eye on it and let you know. The resin the figures are cast in is not a normal looking resin that I am used to. They are almost a pearly white translucent resin, not the typical off white or tan resin you normally see.

Steve, how are your figures?


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

I just got my figures today! I have not taken them out to look at them yet. I also received my PE set for the Spinner from Paul today and my LEDs too! TrekModelers refit DIY lighting kit came today too. Just sold some stuff and I got money in my PayPal account. Need to buy paints and a few more supplies from Megahobby. I've never used Mig Productions pigments and washes so I have a set of those I will be getting. Still waiting for my Red sable brushes to come in.

Robiwon your figures came fully cast? One doesn't have his arm attached on mine.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Yours is correct. Gaff, the driver, has a separate arm.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Interior mocked up to make sure everything still fits. So far so good. Next up, running lights and paint.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well, it's been a short while since I worked on this. I've spent the last several months working on a Pulse Rifle from ALIENS. Full hero prop with authentic sounds and lights in the two barrels.



Now that it's done, I get back to the Spinner. If anyone has any questions, just let me know.

As a small update on the leaching resin on the figures. I drilled their butts out where there were wet spots. There were some bubbles in there. I think that was the cause the leaching. After the primer coat they both have stopped.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well, I'm back at the Spinner. I did have a major set back though. One of my cats (the guilty one has not admitted to it yet) decided that the scratchbuilt back wall was a chew toy. I was able to salvage most of the detail bits off of it, from what I could find! But, since I had the PE kit I just went ahead and built up that wall and detailed it. Still need to shoot some clear flat after the blue dries. More updates will be coming soon on this as I dive back into it.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Aaarrrggghhh!

The replacement looks good, though.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I love my cats though. It was my mistake as I pulled the kit out and left parts on my desk after going to bed. I have 4 cats so I should know better, lol. The PE is excellent so it's all good.


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