# AMT Reissue of 18 inch USS Enterprise just arrived!



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Hi Folks My hobby dealer told me his wholesaler just got in the Round 2 Reissue of the AMT 18 inch classic Enterprise tonight.Great News!!I am paying for 2 tommorrow and should have it later next week.Talk to your hobbydealers I was told they will sell out fast so place your orders and secure yours so you can get it soon.Guy S.


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Pics. Must have pics.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

A slight revision to my order.I am going to get only 1.The kit is $19.00 bucks and I have plenty Old Enterprise models.Rememberthis kit sold for $3.00 bucks back in the 70's and I have at least 19 and more so I ain't hurting for the kit.The Changes I know is that the Top Primary hull lines that were prominent on the AMT kit have been eliminated and the decals have the ISS Enterprise as well as names and numbers of all the starships.The Enterprise will be molded in White Plastic and will have the Bridge and Sensor Dome shot in clear green like the Original Model.I love the Enterprise but at $19.00 bucks a kit I will be a bit more reserved on buying them.


----------



## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

I hope the front engine caps are molded correctly like they were on the original release. I didn't like the "shortened" engine caps (the 3 lower shapes) on the reissue that I last bought years ago.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

The only changes are going to be the that the Primary Hull lines are gone.I believe everything else is the same.Also this is the version from 1976 and on.


----------



## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

Please post a pic when you get your kit! I'd love to see the parts! :thumbsup:

Can anyone remember the release date for the special tin box version??


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Guy Schlicter said:


> . . . this kit sold for $3.00 bucks back in the 70's . . .


Considering inflation, they've come down about 33% in price 

Glad to hear about the slight modifications, too! That grid was really hard to deal with.:thumbsup:


----------



## JeffG (May 10, 2004)

Doesn't do anything for me but I can dig others being enthusiastic about it. I'll hold off for an accurate 1/350th version. Eventually. Maybe. Someday. I hope.


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

So it's still got those three inexplicable dimples on the underside of the saucer?

Hell, if you're gonna start "correcting" stuff, might as well go whole hog and _fix it!_


----------



## ccbor (May 27, 2003)

Our hobby shop is suppose to get them this weekend. I'll check monday if one of mine has arrived.

Bor


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> So it's still got those three inexplicable dimples on the underside of the saucer?
> 
> Hell, if you're gonna start "correcting" stuff, might as well go whole hog and _fix it!_



I like changing the profile of the underside of the saucer a little anyways. 

I've got two of the kits coming and will using a bit of epoxy putty where it counts. 

I look forward to the new improved decals as well.:thumbsup:


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> . . . I look forward to the new improved decals as well.:thumbsup:


If the decal sheet is a reprint of the one that contains the names and numbers of all the starships in the fleet, then it will be in the same ugly, inaccurate, condensed font. You'll need aftermarket decals to make it look right.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

When he says "new and improved" he means it.
I'm told it's just like the decal sheet for the 11" Polar Light Enterprise. Correct font and all. Plus the names of all 12 ships.


----------



## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

That's a welcome change !


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

An update I will have mine by Friday.At least my first run of them.My sister Rose asked me what I want for Christmas and I told her about the Enterprise model and my sister said We'll take care of you.So you know what Santa will be bringing me.Guy


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Captain April said:


> So it's still got those three inexplicable dimples on the underside of the saucer?


That would be an easy fix - just grind material off the mold. (Well, easier than adding material to get rid of grid.) That would be a great improvement.

My biggest pet peeve is the B/C deck shape, but that's a HUGE deal to alter - better to just hit up Don Matthys for a resin replacement.

And don't forget to pick up a photoetch shuttlecraft hangar


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

John P said:


> When he says "new and improved" he means it.
> I'm told it's just like the decal sheet for the 11" Polar Light Enterprise. Correct font and all. Plus the names of all 12 ships.


:woohoo:

If that's the case, I may just have to get me one of those!

Now, if only they'd fix the taper of the engine nacelles, the bevel angle of the saucer edge, and the curve of the B/C deck teardrop shape, we'd have . . . a totally new model kit!


----------



## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

I was in Competition Hobbies today at 4:00pm.
One of the guys working there said he had two kits,
and they sold out already.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

scotpens said:


> Now, if only they'd fix the taper of the engine nacelles, the bevel angle of the saucer edge, and the curve of the B/C deck teardrop shape, we'd have . . . a totally new model kit!


Oh, now that would take all the fun out of it, wouldn't it?


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Might be worth it for the decals....


----------



## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

I'm excited about the reissue of this kit! :thumbsup: I've spent a lot of time in the last dozen years or so collecting those kits just for that purpose, but still need 2 or 3 to make "The Fleet"...! I am probably one of the few people left who prefer the Tech Manual numbering system, which I hear that the new decal will NOT be doing.  I will be able to do a bit of mix and matching, but I'll still have to get aftermarket sheets to get the different hull markings that have always been missed on the previous editions.


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

The "Tech Manual" numbering system is actually the crappy AMT decal sheet numbering system, with the exception of the Constellation and the Republic, since their numbers have an onscreen source, and the Constitution either because of that Greg Jein article, or being informed that the Enterprise was a Constitution class starship and deciding to just deduct the registry by 1, thus stumbling into the same thing Jein decided.


----------



## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

I wouldn't use the crappy sheet because it IS.... well, CRAPPY. Only the names could be used, anyway, if I could get around that horrible font (which I can't, frankly). If you recall, no number guide was ever provided, so we were treated to the numbering sequence of "01" to "14". Unless one was familiar with the Tech Manual (which a goodly number of builders at that time may not have been), it was pretty much a crap shoot and you had to piece together the correct numbers for the few that we did know about. This isn't anything you didn't know, just mentioning it as "back history". 

Now, having said all that.... I STILL intend to use the Tech Manual numbering. JTGraphics does not and as I recall from years ago, has no interest in doing the TM numbering for the ships. I wish I could recall for certain whether that means not offering them like he does for the now-official numbering system - well, that much for certain I DO recall.... my memory is vague as to whether they would even be done as custom sheets. Maybe, maybe not. But the final result is that this is a dead end - as far as I recall. That was too many computer crashes and lost emails ago.

Still, between the new decal sheet, a number of Thomas Models TOS generic sheets, plus the sheets JTG DOES offer, I can get around most of name issues!


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Does the _TMOST _have a list of starships? If so, are there numbers associated with any of them or any reference made to them to suggest numbering?

(I don't have my copy handy right now.)


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

An update on the price of the Enterprise kit.I found out from one of the few hobby shops left in Manhattan the list price is $24.00 and after his discount it will be $22 and change so I will wait till Friday and pick mine up for $19 bucks.I'm glad the Enterprise model is out again and of course and I will pick up a few but I mainly want to see what Round 2 has changed in the model.


----------



## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

I'm stoked about this reissue. I too wished they'd accurized it a bit more, but you know what? I can live with it. This was the model that got me started on sci-fi model making! It seems Megahobby just added it to their online catalog. $18.95. So I'll be ordering a couple through them!


----------



## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)




----------



## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

*one change I'd like to see...*

is to get rid of the crappy 'cradle' base and have the original base again. Or at least any decent base. 

I loved the lighting for this kit, too. I suppose people do aftermarket lighting kits for this?


----------



## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

Jodet asked:


> I loved the lighting for this kit, too. I suppose people do aftermarket lighting kits for this?


No.
Never.
We are forbidden from lighting this ship.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

I understand the elimination of the Primary Hull lines to make the model more accurate.Truth is they and those 3 underside depressions on the bottom of the saucer never bothered me.In the Original version of that kit and the retooled 1976 version they were always there.If anything those lines give more detail to the Enterprise Model.When Ertl first reissued the AMT Enterprise model in 1983 Ertl told me at that time they considered it a classic model and didn't want to touch it because it was so well known and you know.I'm glad they kept it the same.The Decals could have been improved and made better but I lived with the inaccurate decals for so long and they also didn't bother me.Guy S


----------



## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

MegaHobby informed me via email that mine are on the way. :woohoo:

I ordered three of these. Looking forward to building this kit again. 

Sean


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I am looking forward to this kit re-release. It was one of first models in the sixties I loved the lighting wiht the 'turn the deflector' switch. I am goin gto wait a bit before buying one- too many unbuilt kits ahead of it and I am interested in seeing what aftermarket goodies will surface for it next year. Now if only a TOS D-7 reissue would follow.

.


----------



## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I was not planning to get one of these new issues. However, I think this recession is going to hammer model companies as people tighten their belts. Think I'll be picking one or two up...


----------



## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

They eliminated those raised lines on the top of the 
main hull? I don't have to grind them off anymore?
:woohoo: :woohoo:


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

CaptFrank said:


> They eliminated those raised lines on the top of the
> main hull? I don't have to grind them off anymore?


Well, if you really miss the grinding off of the grid, you can always use some small Evergreen brand plastic strips to recreate the grid and then grind it off.:thumbsup:


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

KUROK said:


> I was not planning to get one of these new issues. However, I think this recession is going to hammer model companies as people tighten their belts. Think I'll be picking one or two up...


Yep. Recession or depression, model kit releases will be one of the first things to get hurt.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Stores too. My LHS says their sales are down 50% from this time last year, and they were struggling to pay the bills last year.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I always but from me LHS to keep him going with the SciFi models- He tries to stock everything he can which is nice. If it cannot be from there I use StarShipModeler.

.


----------



## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

PerfesserCoffee suggested:



> Well, if you really miss the grinding off of the grid, you can always use some small Evergreen brand plastic strips to recreate the grid and then grind it off.


Funny! :lol:


----------



## JeffG (May 10, 2004)

Hmmm. Accurizing a kit to make it more inaccurate. Most illogical.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

I got it today!well worth it.I don't have a camera to post pictures but I will describe the changes as best I can.The decal sheet is as big as the box.The decals are accurate and include markings for the windows Warp Drive strut vents.In essence they give you a larger version of the Polar Lights 1/1000 scale USS Enterprise.The color is white and has a similiar feel to the original kit.The primary hull lines are gone.I did like those lines but the ship looks fine without them.They include markings that were never on the AMT kit.The decals for the secondary hull bottom markings are included.The retro box art is great.The Bridge and Sensor dome are clear green.The model now has numbers on the instruction sheet for the kit parts!Also they give you markings for the first pilot second pilot and Standard Series Enterprise very similar to the Polar Lights 1/1000 Enterprise kit.The instructions are based on the original AMT Enterprise instructions.Round 2 did a very nice job reissuing the Enterprise kit.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

How do the Bussard domes and the three panels look? That is one area where they kept changing things, often not for the better.

.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

The Warp Drive domes and shields that you attach to them are the same as the Ertl reissue.The only change is that the primary hull lines are gone.Other than that the actual kit is the same as when Ertl was producing it.Also the decals have names for some the other Starships.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Which Ertl reissue? Some kits had the domes too small, others had the three panels too short. I have lost count on how many times that kit has been released- I had a number ! issue and a number 4 issue before.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Ertl stock number 6676


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

Guy Schlicter said:


> Ertl stock number 6676


That's the one with the three rectangular dealybobs molded as a separate piece from the nacelle domes, right? The individual "shields" or whatever they are can be cut apart and glued to the underside of the nacelle fronts separately for better accuracy.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

scotpens said:


> That's the one with the three rectangular dealybobs molded as a separate piece from the nacelle domes, right? The individual "shields" or whatever they are can be cut apart and glued to the underside of the nacelle fronts separately for better accuracy.


IIRC, the long box re-issues had the more accurate separate shields. I don't like the ones joined together but, as you point out, it's not too hard to accurize them.

BTW: I think the bussard collector domes are fairly accurate to the pilot versions of the 11' special effects model and the 33" special effects model.

Guy, is the dish antenna improved (or like the long box version)?


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

The sensor dish is unfortunatley not the more accurate one Lee.Its the later small box version inaccurate one Guy.


----------



## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

That's a shame, that re-issue dish is abominable.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Guy Schlicter said:


> The sensor dish is unfortunatley not the more accurate one Lee.Its the later small box version inaccurate one Guy.


Darn! I _*HATE*_ that little dish antenna!!!

I'll have to set my devious mind to work figuring out a way to make a replacement!:devil:


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Step One: Get an older version, pre-1976.

Step Two: Do some castings.

I think you can figure out the rest from there.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> Step One: Get an older version, pre-1976.
> 
> Step Two: Do some castings.
> 
> I think you can figure out the rest from there.


I've got the old style dish antenna. I might have to give casting a shot.


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

I'm tossing up to go with the range of accurising parts that Alliance do... But as this was my first real Sci-fi model I'm tempted just to do it striaght oob for nostalgia.  However since it's still on pre-order with CultTVmans and I've got the big refit on the bench I don't have to deside just yet  

Cheers,

Alec :wave:


----------



## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

All you guys that hate the Deflector dish that comes with 
the kit, I have a question for you:

Can I have it?
When you get your kits, send them to me!
I can use them.

I'm serious.


----------



## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

Just got mine at the local hobby shop this afternoon.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

> Ertl stock number 6676


Thanks, but the boxes were destroyed over thirty years ago.

I will look around to see if there is a photo of the parts somewhere. My LHS does not have the kit in yet.

.


----------



## Edge (Sep 5, 2003)

Here is a review, in case you haven't seen it:

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Default.aspx?tabid=1016


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Maybe if this puppy sells well enough, they can go back and fix a few more remaining problems with the molds....


----------



## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Thanks for the link! I would have liked to have seen more of the parts but it does cover the changes already made. Very nice!


----------



## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I'll have to set my devious mind to work figuring out a way to make a replacement!:devil:


My first thought is of those brass turned dishes that were offered some years ago. Who did those??


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Prince of Styrene II said:


> My first thought is of those brass turned dishes that were offered some years ago. Who did those??


Those were nice. I don't remember who did them but they're a bit of overkill for this model kit. 

I've turned some plastic dishes before by using a drill to mount a cut out section of the AMT refit recessed dish. This makeshift lathe arrangement along with a file allowed me to to cut down and thin out the plastic satisfactorily.


----------



## Steve CultTVman Iverson (Jan 1, 1970)

There have been a number of products released over the years for correcting many of the errors inherent in the kit. I highly recommend checking them out on the Federation Models website at www.federationmodels.com and Don's Light And Magic at www.dlmparts.com

In addition, Paul Newitt wrote the book on building and detailing the 18" kit - StarFleet Assembly Manuals. The booklets were widely pirated for years until I put out an authorized reprint. 

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/shop/product.php?productid=16279

I've also put together a set of the most needed replacement parts to correct the problems with the kit. 










This includes replacement bridge from DLM, plus bussards, engine balls, and sensor dish from Federation and a couple clear replacement domes.

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/shop/product.php?productid=16955

Plus there are plenty of lighting options available as well. And Paragrafix has a nifty little shuttle bay for the model.

I wrote an article a couple years ago for Kitbuilders Magazine, where I built an original 18" kit, upgrading the lights, giving it an accurate paint job, and using JTGraphics upgraded decals. You can order that issue through the Kitbuilders site at

http://tinyurl.com/6mm9os

Jay Chladek wrote a brief out-of-the-box review of the reissued kit

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Default.aspx?tabid=1016

And I recomend reading his article on the history of the kit at 

http://tinyurl.com/6atpvj

A couple of my own comments on the reissue.... 

While the kit is being put out in a copy of the original box, it is not the original kit. The tools were reworked many times through the mid 70's (as documented in Jay's article above) and little, if anything, remains of the original kit. The original kit was more of a toy, with battery powered lights and horrid seams. It was not a great kit for modelers to build. All reminents of the interior lighting structure are long gone. The original large base is long gone. The orange translucent engine domes are gone. 

There have been improvements, most notably the removal of the saucer grid and the upgraded decals. The nacelles attach to the secondary hull very well, thanks to a mid 70's retooling. 

Its a fun, nostalgic kit to build. You can make it look really good with a decent paint job and careful application of decals. You can make it look ever better by using some accurate replacement parts and adding lights and a good support base. 

If you want a more accurate model, stick to the reissued Polar Lights 11.5 inch kit.

Have fun. 

Steve


----------



## SFCOM1 (Sep 3, 2002)

Thanks much Steve,

I will be picking one up from a local HS in Phoenix for nostaliga, to be placed next to my intact USS _Constelation_ (pre Doomsday Machine). I love the fact the new kit will have accurate decals like the 11 1/2" PL kit!


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

SFCOM1 said:


> Thanks much Steve,
> 
> I will be picking one up from a local HS in Phoenix for nostaliga, to be placed next to my intact USS _Constelation_ (pre Doomsday Machine). I love the fact the new kit will have accurate decals like the 11 1/2" PL kit!


You did one too?


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

My feelings about this reissue now that I have it.I like it a lot.But I still have many AMT/Ertl reissues of this same kit.They will still get built and I like them.I also never minded the grid pattern on the top of the AMT Primary Hull.And the Gray plastic the Ertl reissue is molded in is not bad and I like it.Round 2 does get credit.They did a nice job on this reissue.


----------



## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Anyone know where in Phoenix I can get this kit? Hobby Bench won't carry them without special order.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

OMG, the decal sheet is as big as the box!! It's amazing!

Of course, my first thought was to build this kit as the Constellation (since they used this kit AS the Constellation), and of course, when I peeled the "protective" paper from the decal sheet, it was stuck to the name "Constellation," which apparently hadn't dried before they stuck the "protective" paper on it. So the one non-standard decal I needed on the whole sheet was smeared with paper embedded in the ink.  Welcome to my life, folks! :lol:

Luckily, I bought two kits, and the second one was fine. 

But I gotta say I really HATE "protective" paper on decal sheets. More often than not, it sticks and actually _ruins _the decals.


----------



## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

charonjr said:


> Anyone know where in Phoenix I can get this kit? Hobby Bench won't carry them without special order.


I bought mine at a little hobby shop at 59th and Greenway. Sorry I can't remember the name...


----------



## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

John P said:


> OMG, the decal sheet is as big as the box!! It's amazing!
> 
> Of course, my first thought was to build this kit as the Constellation (since they used this kit AS the Constellation), and of course, when I peeled the "protective" paper from the decal sheet, it was stuck to the name "Constellation," which apparently hadn't dried before they stuck the "protective" paper on it. So the one non-standard decal I needed on the whole sheet was smeared with paper embedded in the ink.  Welcome to my life, folks! :lol:
> 
> ...


Whew, I was worried we were going to go a whole day without JohnP griping about something...

I'll take my 30 day ban now, it was worth it.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

:freak:


----------



## Captain America (Sep 9, 2002)

*Guys...Is it just ME or...*

*Did any of you get one with a decal sheet with a malformed 'NCC-1701" in the left upper corner?* I got two of the new boxed kit. One Deek sheet was fine, the second looked like that corner was pulled from the machine before the decal solution had fully set...resulting in rippling of the letters.

I'm gonna try to contact them and see if I can send it back for a replacement.

Be well, gang.

Greg

P.S.: The box is wonderful. I prefer the new (old) art of the ship over the black-boxed version...


----------



## SFCOM1 (Sep 3, 2002)

Captain April said:


> You did one too?


Not Yet,

My Constelation is the older version (It took 2 hours to get the saucer lines sanded) 

I used JT Graphics TOS decals set and window set to complete the model. Perhaps it's time to pull out the digital camera and tak a few pics.!


----------



## SFCOM1 (Sep 3, 2002)

charonjr said:


> Anyone know where in Phoenix I can get this kit? Hobby Bench won't carry them without special order.


I do wish Gordon's (The Original Hobby Lobby) was still around. I know of a small HS on 59th and Greenway that might carry it, but the shipments of any SF and genre models are greatly delayed (Phoenix is on the hind end of model Space!)


----------



## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Just picked one up myself and I like it! I like the white casting and the decals are great, windows too, no grey triangle thingies though for under the saucer. 

It will be fun to have a few extra kits for kit-bashing since its decent scale for it, not too big or too small. I ordered the usual after market corrections so I am looking forward to making a decent Enterprise out of this rerelease. 

I have two older kits not in very good shape so I have been experimenting on those especially the saucer section. I am trying to figure out a way to correct the angle of the saucer rim, if I get anywhere with it I post some pics.

Does anyone have any ideas for correcting that angle problem? Any suggestion would be appreciated.


----------



## Captain America (Sep 9, 2002)

If this one is coming out, how much longer before we see the hoary old AMT Refit...and will they do any cleanup/accurizing on IT?

(Hmmm...Maybe goodbye random panel lines?)

One can HOPE...:freak::wave:

Greg


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Captain America said:


> *Did any of you get one with a decal sheet with a malformed 'NCC-1701" in the left upper corner?* I got two of the new boxed kit. One Deek sheet was fine, the second looked like that corner was pulled from the machine before the decal solution had fully set...resulting in rippling of the letters.
> 
> I'm gonna try to contact them and see if I can send it back for a replacement.
> 
> ...


Like I said, mine had a smeared "Constellation." I think they plopped the "protective" paper on it before the ink dried.


----------



## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Thanks guys, I'll try the shop at 59th and Greenway..... Oops! Google is asking: Scottsdale or Glendale? I forgot that there is an East and West side to these streets here..... Never mind.... I found it! Glendale.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

John P said:


> Like I said, mine had a smeared "Constellation." I think they plopped the "protective" paper on it before the ink dried.


I got mine yesterday and the first thing I attended to was the decal situation with each of the two kits. The first one was stuck over some of the decals but not too badly. The second one--no problem at all.

I discovered a difference between the two "protective" layers in each kit's decal bag:

The first was like fairly firm tissue paper used to stuff new shirts or grab up donuts with. This was stuck at a few places and had to be torn away from one area. There's still some stuck to the decal sheet BUT it looks as though it would melt away in the warm water used in applying the decal.

The second one has a waxy feel to it and was not stuck to the decal sheet. This makes me think that they used the wrong paper to begin with and later corrected the mistake.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

^Well that's interesting, 'cause my two kits had the same different two papers! Sounds like they used both kinds equally.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

John P said:


> ^Well that's interesting, 'cause my two kits had the same different two papers! Sounds like they used both kinds equally.


That IS strange! Maybe it was a cost-cutting procedure--dilute the good separation papers with the cheap ineffective ones 

Those crazy Chinese!  The next thing you know they'll be putting poisonous additives in baby formula and leaded paint on children's toys!


----------



## spacecraft guy (Aug 16, 2003)

I'm going to buy one of these kits to support the Round 2 Trek line and my local hobby shop. 

But since the only changes are the elimination of the saucer grid pattern and a new decal sheet that was scaled up from the 1/1000 PL version, and since I have both a whole bunch of the prior issues of both kits, an hour or two of sanding and a few minutes of computer time enlarging and printing out a new decal sheet gets me the same thing. I'm sure the Round II people know that. 

I'm buying just one of these, with new tooling I would have bought a few cases. Will buy a few cases of the 1/350th in 2010. I appreciate the effort in returning a classic to the store shelves, but the changes are something that I've already done on my own for a few years.


----------



## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

Maritain said:


> Does anyone have any ideas for correcting that angle problem? Any suggestion would be appreciated.


The only thing you can really do, since the desired angle would cut into the empty space inside the saucer, is pack the rim with Aves. Once dried, seal the saucer & then sand like mad at the angle you want.


----------



## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Prince of Styrene II said:


> The only thing you can really do, since the desired angle would cut into the empty space inside the saucer, is pack the rim with Aves. Once dried, seal the saucer & then sand like mad at the angle you want.




Also, you could extend the saucer top part with styrene.
Then after the bottom is added stretch plastic wrap (like Saran wrap) around the rim. Finally inject liquid resin in to the void, let it harden and remove the plastic wrap!


----------



## spacecraft guy (Aug 16, 2003)

Prince of Styrene II said:


> The only thing you can really do, since the desired angle would cut into the empty space inside the saucer, is pack the rim with Aves. Once dried, seal the saucer & then sand like mad at the angle you want.


Check out www.thomasmodels.com, Tom Sasser has a how to about building the 18" TOS E.

His solution is to glue the upper and lower sections together and fill the primary hull with resin, then sand the edge down to the proper angle.

I've also seen the sidewall cut off the lower saucer, uprights of sheet styrene cut to the proper angle glued around the circumference of the saucer, then a new sidewall of sheet styrene glued to the uprights, faired in with epoxy putty.


----------



## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Thanks guys for the tips I am working on something let you know how it turns out. I missed that section over at Thomas models its a nice write up on the 18" Ent. I like the resin solution.

Say does anyone remember "that guy" who had a technique for cutting the B and C decks on the 18" to make them look more accurate? I ordered the aftermarket B and C decks, but I just wanted to see how he did it again, thought it might come in handy for kit bashing later. The last thing I remember him doing on his site was he was going to use a bandsaw I believe to improve the tapper on the warp engines...ring a bell....anyone...Bueller???


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Heres something Round 2 could have done.First off I love the reissue and heres some changes Round 2 could have done.They duplicated the decal sheet.Why not duplicate some of the parts like giving you additional optional parts for the rear warp end nacelles to duplicate either the WNMHGB Enterprise or parts for the Cage version.An optional larger sensor dish could be added with the option to build the pilot version and keeping AMTs small sensor dish as well.How about those gold spikes for the front of the warp nacelles as well as an add on higher bridge you can glue on.Although it wouldn't be perfect to their 1/1000 Enterprise kit I believe these changes would benefit the model and I don't think they would be hard for Round 2 to do.Guy Schlicter


----------



## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Not hard, but it means _new parts_.

If you're going to do new parts, why not fix the many problems with the model kit? Once you start down that path, you're no longer repopping the kit, you're getting a new kit.

Inasmuch as I'd love an accurate 18" TOS E, this is more than what what intended - a repop of a classic kit.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

WarpCore Breach said:


> Not hard, but it means _new parts_.
> 
> If you're going to do new parts, why not fix the many problems with the model kit? Once you start down that path, you're no longer repopping the kit, you're getting a new kit.
> 
> Inasmuch as I'd love an accurate 18" TOS E, this is more than what what intended - a repop of a classic kit.


I would have liked to have seen them reproduce the original flat backed rear nacelle caps like on the original. They could have also repopped the original style deflector dish and mount. That path--making it more like the original kit from the '60s--could have been limited and reasonable, increasing the kit's appeal without overdoing it.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I too would have liked to see an enhanced repop like they just did for the classic Galactica kits- all original parts and some new trees of improved ones. As astated earlier the origianl molds have been redone several times over the years so when it is called an original kit repop it is actually a later iteration of the kit being released. The original kit was cool with the engine lights when I was a kid, but if a totally correct ship is desired then you always need a handful of aftermarket parts. No matter how carefullly a mass market kit is designed (the newest Moebius releases are a good example) there is alway some problem with it that can be improved upon.
I am happy they decided to release it all.


----------



## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

Well I received mine and I have a one sided instruction sheet with no part two instructions. (not that I need the instructions) and the lower saucer has brown scorch melt
marks and spotting on it. Since I was going to build without paint this pretty much rules this possibility out.

The decal sheet is indeed very nice, but I think a bit odd
since the instructions for it are from the smaller kit, and while the decals allow you to mark the ship in the two pilot and production versions, There are no corresponding styrene parts to do so.

This kit is an after-marketers dream !


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

The decal sheet was never intended for this kit- it is an enlargement of the Polar Lights set.

.


----------



## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

Yes, I think that's what I said in my post.


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I would have liked to have seen them reproduce the original flat backed rear nacelle caps like on the original. They could have also repopped the original style deflector dish and mount.


Unfortunately, the molds for those parts no longer exist. The original 1967 aluminum tooling was scrapped in the mid-1970s when it wore out. The entire kit was reworked and retooled in steel for all future issues. Of course, I suppose some of the original parts could be reverse-engineered from an old kit, but think of how much that would add to the tooling costs and the retail price. Anyway, there's always the aftermarket -- and it's not too hard to cut away the hemisphere shapes from the nacelle caps and fill the hole with sheet plastic.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

scotpens said:


> Unfortunately, the molds for those parts no longer exist. The original 1967 aluminum tooling was scrapped in the mid-1970s when it wore out. The entire kit was reworked and retooled in steel for all future issues. Of course, I suppose some of the original parts could be reverse-engineered from an old kit, but think of how much that would add to the tooling costs and the retail price. Anyway, there's always the aftermarket -- and it's not too hard to cut away the hemisphere shapes from the nacelle caps and fill the hole with sheet plastic.


You're right, of course. I knew that but was just playing Monday morning quarterback and daydreaming--a useless habit of mine is pondering "what-ifs."

I plan to upgrade mine as I put them together--probably as first pilot versions of different ships.


----------



## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

When will somoene post a picture?


----------



## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

are they reissuing the klingon cruiser as well?


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Haven't heard about that kit but I wish they would.

.


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

razorwyre1 said:


> are they reissuing the klingon cruiser as well?





Richard Baker said:


> Haven't heard about that kit but I wish they would.


Speaking of accuracy--it's hard to beat.:thumbsup:


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

IIRC- didn't AMT actually build the filming minature of the D-7? If so that could explain why it is so accurate.

.


----------



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

AMT wanted to do a follow kit to the USS Enterprise model which sold very well for them.AMT offered to pay for the development and construction of the Klingon Battle Cruiser miniature to be used on the show in exchange for the rights to produce the model kit.I have seen the Klingon Battle Cruiser miniature that was used in the 3rd season and it looks almost exactly like the model kit.


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Speaking of accuracy--it's hard to beat.:thumbsup:


IIRC, all measurements for the classic AMT Klingon cruiser were taken directly from the filming miniature and scaled down to half size. So it's a pretty dead-on replica, with the exception of some added details like the washboard texture in the leading-edge recesses of the main hull, and the long thin grille things on the upper surface. And I believe at least some of those details showed up in MJ's sketches but, for some reason, weren't reproduced on the filming model.


----------



## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

You wouldn't be able to just reuse the flat-ended nacelle caps from the first version of the kit because the original warp nacelles were not tapered. It really is a different kit--I remember how shocked I was to see the improvements in the Seventies version. Still full of problems but I was impressed that they bothered to improve the classic kit (especially fixing the ludicrous pylon attachment points).


----------



## Modeler1964 (Aug 13, 2006)

Has anyone said whether the nacelle domes are clear or not?


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I believe they are opaque plastic. IIRC only the first lighted version had clear yellow bussard domes, and this is not a repop of that kit but a later one.


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

jbond said:


> You wouldn't be able to just reuse the flat-ended nacelle caps from the first version of the kit because the original warp nacelles were not tapered.


The nacelles on my post-1975-issue AMT _Enterprise_ (minus the domes and end caps) measure exactly 1 inch in diameter at the forward end and 7/8ths of an inch (0.875") at the back. I don't have an original-issue kit for comparison, but IIRC, it had the same taper to the nacelles -- the same INCORRECT taper, that is. Using the PL 1/1000 kit for reference and scaling up, the aft ends of the AMT nacelles should have been slightly smaller in diameter -- 0.8" as opposed to 0.875". I don't believe they were ever molded as simple straight cylinders. Perhaps you're thinking of the Estes model rocket _Enterprise_?

ADDENDUM: According to Jay Chladek's quite comprehensive history of the AMT _Enterprise_ model on culttvman's site:

"A slight taper was added to the warp engine cross section making the engines slightly more accurate then the long box ones in general shape."

Well, I've been known to be wrong on occasion. :freak:


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

^^No biggie--at least you researched it. :thumbsup:

I noticed a very slight fit problem when using the long box end caps on the short box nacelles. I made up the difference with a bit of epoxy putty and some sanding. IMHO, I can deal with it but cutting off the inaccurate globes is probably an easier solution.


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I'd like to know where this myth started that the nacelles weren't tapered. I've built old long box versions and post-76 retooled versions, and they've _all_ been tapered (here's an easy test, that I first did back in '74: Take the dome and hold it up against the front of the nacelle. See how the diameter is the same as the nacelle body? Now put it on the rear of the nacelle. See how it fits snugly *over* the end? It's the same no matter what vintage or tooling of kit you're using.)

Now, whether or not it's the _correct_ taper is another question...


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

SFCOM1 said:


> Not Yet,
> 
> My Constelation is the older version (It took 2 hours to get the saucer lines sanded)


Ah, but the advantage of using the old kit is that you don't have to sand off the grid lines (if you look carefully, the grid lines are barely visible on the effects model). Once you accept the notion that the Constellation is _not_ a Constitution class ship, but a similar, but slightly older, class, and that, therefore, there are no inaccurate details (different class, different details), it becomes a simple matter to just put her together, paint her up, and put on the decals. :thumbsup:



> I used JT Graphics TOS decals set and window set to complete the model. Perhaps it's time to pull out the digital camera and tak a few pics.!


Likewise, although with mine, there's some major repair work to be done. I think I also need to replace the deflector dish.


----------



## pagni (Mar 20, 1999)

Neither the vendor nor the manufacturer is willing to address the defective piece in my kit. Each of them referring me to the other.
Nice customer service all around don't ya think ?


----------



## robster94gt (Feb 5, 2009)

Thanks for all that info on the differences of the kits and your recommended changes.

I've just started looking into Enterprise models and options. I started looking into it because my brother said he once had an original lighted Enterprise model (which sounds like the one you described) that was stolen long ago. I want to rebuild one of these for him, and would like to know what the best way of doing it would be. I'm not after an accurate studio model, but an accurate duplication of the original lighted version. Do you have any pictures showing what the original looked like with the lights installed? Perhaps getting an early 70's kit would be a good starting point.

Any further info on the old lighted kit would be greatly appreaciated.

Thanks,
Rob

[

In addition, Paul Newitt wrote the book on building and detailing the 18" kit - StarFleet Assembly Manuals. The booklets were widely pirated for years until I put out an authorized reprint. 



I've also put together a set of the most needed replacement parts to correct the problems with the kit. 


While the kit is being put out in a copy of the original box, it is not the original kit. The tools were reworked many times through the mid 70's (as documented in Jay's article above) and little, if anything, remains of the original kit. The original kit was more of a toy, with battery powered lights and horrid seams. It was not a great kit for modelers to build. All reminents of the interior lighting structure are long gone. The original large base is long gone. The orange translucent engine domes are gone. 

There have been improvements, most notably the removal of the saucer grid and the upgraded decals. The nacelles attach to the secondary hull very well, thanks to a mid 70's retooling. 

Its a fun, nostalgic kit to build. You can make it look really good with a decent paint job and careful application of decals. You can make it look ever better by using some accurate replacement parts and adding lights and a good support base. 

If you want a more accurate model, stick to the reissued Polar Lights 11.5 inch kit.

Have fun. 

Steve[/QUOTE]


----------

