# J2 photo etch



## Darkhunter (Dec 17, 2003)

I noticed a few days ago that someone is offering photo-etch parts for the J2.
Can someone point me in the right direction?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Darkhunter said:


> I noticed a few days ago that someone is offering photo-etch parts for the J2.
> Can someone point me in the right direction?


Take a look here.
http://www.paragrafix.biz/


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## Darkhunter (Dec 17, 2003)

teslabe said:


> Take a look here.
> http://www.paragrafix.biz/


Thanks!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Hi Darkhunter,

I'm just waiting for the decals to come in from JT Graphics, and the PE will be available for ordering and shipping. I expect them early this week. You can preorder the set now (no money changes hands) if you like using the form on the site.

http://www.paragrafix.biz/product_detail.asp?MainCat=blank&SubCat=blank&PPartNum=PGX121

Cheers,
Paul


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## Rl3058 (Aug 15, 2008)

I was looking at the pdf document for the photoetch interior and I was wondering is anyone going to try to do the uber detailing on page 1 & 2. Which makes the center flight control station spin and the computer tape drives.

http://www.paragrafix.biz/instructions/PGX121.pdf


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Rl3058 said:


> I was looking at the pdf document for the photoetch interior and I was wondering is anyone going to try to do the uber detailing on page 1 & 2. Which makes the center flight control station spin and the computer tape drives.
> 
> http://www.paragrafix.biz/instructions/PGX121.pdf


I'll be putting a motor in the astrogator for the little J2, I'm sure I'll try to fit three into the flight console for the screens. I'm still not sure about the tape reels, I need to look at the PE parts when I get them and see how slow I can spin the little stepper motors I'll be using. I'm working on a board layout for the motor driver circuit right now and still have parts coming in for it. I'll post pictures as I go along. Here is the motor, it's nice and small.....:thumbsup:


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## thebloop (Nov 3, 2004)

teslabe said:


> I'll be putting a motor in the astrogator for the little J2, I'm sure I'll try to fit three into the flight console for the screens. I'm still not sure about the tape reels, I need to look at the PE parts when I get them and see how slow I can spin the little stepper motors I'll be using. I'm working on a board layout for the motor driver circuit right now and still have parts coming in for it. I'll post pictures as I go along. Here is the motor, it's nice and small.....:thumbsup:


Motorization is great. It's the _Easy Way_ for me. 

I intend to motorize only the upper hull dome radar. To do so, I bought a cheap $5.00 battery operated wall clock found at a local discount store with a sweeping second-hand, not quartz movement. I gutted it for its motor. I also saved the clock arms it came with, later to be used to support the radar accessory. It turns an acceptable 1 RPM speed for a typical model radar and the motor is quiet. When I receive the TSDS lighting kit soon, my LEDs will be flush with the bottom plate of that radar. It'll twinkle as normal, just that the lamps will be flush. I may decide to let the lamps glow solid and be dazzled by the turning radar reflections just like the chrome crown of my B9. 

I own a Master Replicas TOS Star Trek Enterprise and its Nacelle motors are awesome. Turbine blades spin in each ruby-red Nacelle with a firey interior. Due to the gearheads it's a bit noisy of a replica, though. But after this, I wouldn't dream of owning a Jupiter without motorization. And with a mirrored or chromed radar substituted or applied on the given Moebius part, the dome will be interesting, a marvel in of itself! The Nacelles have limited space width so I'm stuck with what they gave me. But most areas of this Jupiter have plenty of room. Because this clock motor housing measures 2" X 2", your tape reels may be a bit of a challenge though.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

The motors I'm using are only 0.787"dia and the body is only 0.560" thick so I can't wait to see how well they work. I just finshed doing the circuit board layout, so once I build the protype driver I'll know if they well work.


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## thebloop (Nov 3, 2004)

teslabe said:


> The motors I'm using are only 0.787"dia and the body is only 0.560" thick so I can't wait to see how well they work. I just finshed doing the circuit board layout, so once I build the protype driver I'll know if they well work.


I think you should be OK. After I posted below, I realized that the astrogator spun pretty fast, anyway. Turning the tape reels might be a challenge. It's not that they just turned, but they paused too! The work going into this project, you guys are amazing!


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## Rl3058 (Aug 15, 2008)

teslabe said:


> I'll be putting a motor in the astrogator for the little J2, I'm sure I'll try to fit three into the flight console for the screens. I'm still not sure about the tape reels, I need to look at the PE parts when I get them and see how slow I can spin the little stepper motors I'll be using. I'm working on a board layout for the motor driver circuit right now and still have parts coming in for it. I'll post pictures as I go along. Here is the motor, it's nice and small.....:thumbsup:


Where did you get the motors for it?


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## sjbrown (Oct 25, 2009)

*ParaGrafix Hero replacement landing legs*

Hi

I'm new to the group. I'm still waiting for my Moebius Jupiter 2 I ordered to arrive here in the UK. I was just wondering if someone could tell me the difference between the ParaGrafix replacement legs and the ones supplied with the kit. I'm considering buying them later but was curious on the differences.

Steve


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## sjbrown (Oct 25, 2009)

Please disreguard my last post. I've just found Ron's post which explains clearly the difference.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

thebloop said:


> Motorization is great. It's the _Easy Way_ for me.
> 
> I intend to motorize only the upper hull dome radar. To do so, I bought a cheap $5.00 battery operated wall clock found at a local discount store with a sweeping second-hand, not quartz movement. I gutted it for its motor. I also saved the clock arms it came with, later to be used to support the radar accessory. It turns an acceptable 1 RPM speed for a typical model radar and the motor is quiet. When I receive the TSDS lighting kit soon, my LEDs will be flush with the bottom plate of that radar. It'll twinkle as normal, just that the lamps will be flush. I may decide to let the lamps glow solid and be dazzled by the turning radar reflections just like the chrome crown of my B9..


That clock idea is great! I wasn't planning on motorizing the radar on mine, but I'm pretty sure I could manage that!


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## thebloop (Nov 3, 2004)

gareee said:


> That clock idea is great! I wasn't planning on motorizing the radar on mine, but I'm pretty sure I could manage that!


Thanks, Gareee

I think the speed would be just right. Quartz clocks are everywhere; not quartz. Be sure to buy one with a sweeping analog second-hand; continuous motion. It's easy, silent, long lasting. 

I've never seen the upper hull bubble, particularly in space flight, in detail on the show, on this forum or anywhere else. I'm not a pilot. One thing for sure, being a radar positioned horizontally, it would have to turn. That is, if they really wanted to detect space objects all around as their consoles would suggest.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

As noted in the main announcement for the etch, I've finally gotten in the last component and will be making ordering live on my site tomorrow. You can still preorder, of course, but it will just add an extra layer of confusion and won't gain you any time


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I just downloaded the PDF instructions. WOW!!!!! I can't wait!


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I have just downloaded and reviewed the PDF file of instructions. They are very good. I will definitely order this set.

I have but one suggestion, however. In many of the steps, you begin with the term "scribe off". This term is non sequitur. It's the kind of word combination where the two words to not follow (i.e. "engrave off" or "pencil off"). Perhaps the word "scrape" could be used in place of "scribe". Or, better yet, replace both with "remove".

I sincerely hope that this does not insult you in any way. I certainly do not mean for it to do so. Quite the opposite. It is the only thing that detracts from an otherwise excellent guide.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Y3a said:


> I just downloaded the PDF instructions. WOW!!!!! I can't wait!


You don't have too much longer to wait, Mark. Your gear and etch set are on their way. You should have them by the end of the week.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I've been thinking about the way I would attach my modifications to the Hero Legs w/out hosing up the gear. I bought the brass tubes and rods from the LHS's K&S Metals and Stopped by the local RC airplane shop to check price/availability of servos. Bought some threaded rod and threaded inserts from Dubro and I already have the NWSL gearbox and motor for the mechanical fusion core, and some "Structural Shapes in Metal" I-Beam for the sliding parts of the footpad doors. I'm trying to get as much of the model to work like the real Hero did on this version. I got some very thin shim stock brass for use as the bottom of the legs that cover the slit between the gear and hull. I'm gearing up(Did I just say that? Jeez!)to cut the gear well walls in aircraft grade plywood and the top inside fusion core so I can mount the motor and gearbox that rotates the lights in the core. I decided on a square tube to be soldered inside the top of the tube attached to the core lights to be used as a key for a drive shaft up to the spinning "V". It will have a ball bearing from an RC Car and a brass tube pressed through the BB for mounting the "V" but on the bottom side of the bearing will have a square rod that just fits into the square tube on the top of the fusion core. 

This arrangement allows the core to be removed to mess with the insides. The hatches on the top of the hull will also be functional to get in to mess with the insides. You'll need to figure a way to cleanly attach both hull sections together after attaching the lifting wires to the hull somehow. I do not know if a decade or two of hanging on wires will deform the hull around the support holes, so perhaps attaching them to the gear well sides, and let that take the stress? I dunno.


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## gregsb (Jun 25, 2008)

Wow...made it to the west coast in two days, storm and all.

As usual, the quality and detail is spectacular.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I just finished looking at the Photo-Etch with my high powered magnifiers (being an old fart n all...) . The work is superb. It makes the Jupiter 2's potential to be a true Museum Quality Model. 

With the Hero legs and the interior with the superb decals and Photo-Etch and lighting you'll have a model that just may fool the camera lens all the way zoomed in on the Astrogator, or main control console, or any other station. The modules are big enough to allow for micro paint detailing to really make it look realistic to the camera. I decided to build a 1st year (Derelict/Stowaway) interior with single chair and modified Astrogator that will go into the bubble and the more documented and therefore harder to perfectly replicate 3rd year interior. I can swap interiors on the no gear, flying, LED core version of the Jupiter 2. The working gear model won't travel much but the no gear one will be all over. 

Anyway, the photo-etch is probably the best I've ever seen. Much better than 80 percent of the Model RR etch I use for engine cabs, crane booms, radio antennas, and signal towers and such. It just takes my breath away. After seeing how good it is, I will seriously look into making the main radar scanner rotate. The Etch is SO GOOD, I feel like I have to "step it up a notch" with the rest of the interior.


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## XMAN64 (Dec 30, 2009)

*Y3a WROTE: *


> The Etch is SO GOOD, I feel like I have to "step it up a notch" with the rest of the interior.


 I agree totally....I recieved my set and it is amazing....can't wait to see photos of this being used. Or for that matter I can't wait to have it finished here in my home.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Thank you, Mark & Xman. That's high praise indeed and I'm glad you like the etch.

Cheers,
Paul


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Well, you're welcome. The J2 etch is absolutely top notch. I will be doing each 'station' as it's own module, with all my tricks to make it look realistic. These teeny details that others have done so far are great! The lil microphone was da bomb!.

I decided that because I have one Jupiter 2 that won't have ANY interior that came from the kit, I'd use it to make that early 1st year one with slide out from the console chair and no main radar panel. The later to be Space Pod Hatch had another area back in there. The fire extinguishers looked Chrome silver. I may even do the floor as gloss black and deep maroon. I'm even thinking of jacking up the freezy tube area. 

Now....I needs me sum figures..........
FIRST YEAR INTERIOR
1 Don West in sitting position
1 Dr. Smith still in Col. uniform shirt and holding laser pistol.
1 frozen John, Maureen, Judy, Penny, and Will.

Years 2-3 INTERIOR
Don and John Sitting 
Maureen, Judy, penny standing
Will pointing while standing
Dr. Smith with arms crossed standing
Robot just standing by 

Thi$ $ound$ Expen$ive!!


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

I just picked up my pe & decals set from the post office this arvo and Again I am blown away.   Even though I had no doubts about them personaly just seeing them in my hands in live 3D was too good for any words to describe.:thumbsup:

And Lou if you are reading this the vinyl set is as good as ever too mate.:thumbsup: 

Thanks again Paul and Lou for the time and effort you both and others have done in producing these beaut am parts.:woohoo:

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I'm sure I speak for Lou when I say "you're quite welcome, Alec"!

On a side note: although I placed my largest first run production order (by a long shot!), I'm sold out of Jupiter 2 photoetch sets for about 2 to 3 weeks. I thought I had more than enough based on the number of preorders, but as soon as they went on sale they began flying off the shelves.

I'll make an announcement when they're back in stock. Sorry for the inconvenience.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*flight deck all decked out*

Hey guys,
thought you'd like to see my J2 consol WIP 

that's Paul's etch and decals "in living color"

I've yet to put in the screen graphics and light from behind, but it should be enough to show you where I'm going


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

All I can say is Wow! That is really looking great, Lou!


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Looking great Lou...I'm teetering on the edge of getting a J2 now but really need to finish my FS first....


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Thanks for sharing your photo, Lou!



miniature sun said:


> Looking great Lou...I'm teetering on the edge of getting a J2 now but really need to finish my FS first....


You're right, Iain, you HAVE to finish your FS first. It would be like getting to the end of a myster novel only to find the last page ripped out if you were to abandon that build - I want to see how it comes out!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*can't leave good enough alone*

I'm continuing work on the J2 and the flight consol in particular.

I'm generally not one to embellish detail where it never existed, but I got a wild hair and followed it thru to its conclusion (something rare for me. hee)

I am pretty happy with the look of the controls, but I thought it needed a little dimension. I have all these "wiggle eyes" left over from the Iron Man project, so I wondered what the two radar screen would look like if they had bubbled fronts.

They ended up loking really neat (especially with a few coats of Future on them) but they are notoriously difficult to take a good picture of.

this one seems to be the best I can manage. It's enought for y'all to get the idea, I hope

enjoy


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Looks very nice and adds to a realistic aspect to the screen. Did you make those?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

That's sharp, Lou. It's subtle, but as you say it adds dimension to the radar display and has a very '60s CRT look to it.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

teslabe,
this is Paul's etch and decal set with a cut off top from a wiggle eye. The plastic bit is just held in place sitting just inside the opening (and on top of the backlit piece) and then "cemented" in with coats of Future.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lou, Yes I know where the etch parts came from, I've got two sets myself. I was asking about the clear plastic "wiggle eye".


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

sorry, bout that. I got the bag of assorted eyes at a local Michael's but I imagine any craft store like an AC Moore would also have them


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> sorry, bout that. I got the bag of assorted eyes at a local Michael's but I imagine any craft store like an AC Moore would also have them


No need to be sorry for give out good info........:thumbsup: I'll keep an eye out, next time I'm in Michael's.....


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