# Honda GCV160 - I will win...I MUST win!



## DaddyO78 (Jun 17, 2010)

***I want to thank all of you who post in here - you have helped me out tremendously and I have learned a ton! I have read dozens upon dozens of posts for over a week before I even became a member...thank you!***

Let me start off by saying that this GCV160 (GJAEA-4415013-N5AF) has thoroughly whooped my tail (I'll keep it G rated). I'll try to make this as straight forward as I can. Keep in my mind that I fix homes for a living, not engines. However, I've really enjoyed this "project", and a small part of me is glad that it's not wrapped up by now. On the flip side of that - I need my pressure washer back! My machine has been down for nearly two weeks now. Like I said, I have read countless forum posts (from other sites too), countless articles, looked at a ton of pictures, and I've even watched a lot of videos on youtube. I've tried and tried and I still can't get my PW to act right. Here goes:

1) Machine sat for several months (with fuel). Quite an effort to start her - cleaned spark plug and put in fresh gas. Ran fine except all of my o-rings on my hose and wand needed replacing...I got soaked. After a while the engine started surging and it would take a couple of minutes to get the pressure that I wanted and for the PW to sound right.

2) Figured the pressure/surging issue was caused by the bad o-rings and leakage. Replaced O-rings. Started fine, but now she's surging pretty badly and I'm not getting any pressure for several minutes. 

3) I use the excuse to go out and buy a brand new wand and a top of the line 30' hose (it's four years old and was about that time anyway). I swap out new hose and wand and start the GCV160. Now I have zero pressure what so ever and the machine dies in 3-5 minutes and won't start back up for another 5-10 minutes. This continues until I get frustrated and say F-it. 

4) I get a new spark plug the next morning and change the oil. Now she won't even start!!! This is when I start doing some research.

5) I dismantle the carb and clean it real good (or so I thought). Later I found out about the main nozzle (the one with several tiny holes) that you access from the bottom. So I take the carb apart again and clean this part thoroughly as well (strand from wire brush in tiny holes, etc). 

6) Machine starts but quickly dies. This goes on for several times until my new problem becomes the engine revving like it's going to explode. I do MORE research and find out how to adjust the governor. 

7) Here's where I'm at now: Machine will run and idle _almost_ like she's supposed to, but then it quits after 5-7 minutes and won't start back up until it cools down.

8) Here's what I've done: 
A) 2 new spark plugs, and checked for spark (very good spark)
B) 2 oil changes (used oil specifically made for 4 cycle engines on second change)
C) Removed pump to make sure that wasn't causing my problems - still had same problems after removal.
D) 2 sets of new gaskets for carb
E) New throttle return spring and governor rod (didn't realize how important these two parts were when I first started breaking down carb so I wasn't very careful with them).
F) Checked and cleaned muffler
G) Checked and replaced gas cap to ensure proper ventilation
H) Checked all gas lines for blockage/punctures
I) New pull string after the old one snapped from me yanking on it so much
J) Checked to make sure valves were not sticking (simply looked into ports with flashlight). Cleaned thoroughly.
K) New air cleaner (vent)
L) New gaskets for float set on carb (actual float looks/acts just fine)
M) Gained about 17 new gray hairs and made generous donations to the Beer and Cussing Gods.

Here's what I _think_ my options are, please feel free to elaborate on what I have, and/or add more:

A) Valve adjustment. I've never adjusted valves before....I never knew what one was until this project. I'm very handy, but I have to admit that I'm a bit nervous about doing this (but I most certainly will if it will fix my problems). I've watched several videos on youtube and have read a ton about the procedure so I think I can pull it off if needed. I'm curious about how to get the cover off without damaging it because of the adhesive? I read somewhere to heat it up?? I have a plumbers torch - thoughts? Ideas?

B) I read that it could be my coil going out because it starts on first pull, runs until it gets to hot, and then won't start until it cools down. I also read that one of the symptoms to this is no spark - which I have plenty of. Thoughts? Ideas?

C) Suck it up, position tail between my legs and bring it to a pro. Please, please don't pick C!

I am completely open to any and all thoughts, ideas, comments, smart ass remarks, etc. I thank you for taking the time to read this and help me out...I can't wait to hear from some of you. Thanks a million!!!

DaddyO78


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Try running with the fuel cap a little loose, you could have a plugged fuel vent causing this issue. Also check the spark right after it dies, if you have no spark when the engine is hot, then the likely culprit is the ignition module.


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## DaddyO78 (Jun 17, 2010)

I really appreciate your suggestions 30yrtech - I was hoping that you would reply. I tried the gas cap to no avail. I will try your spark suggestion. Again, thanks a million!


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## DaddyO78 (Jun 17, 2010)

Try running with the fuel cap a little loose, you could have a plugged fuel vent causing this issue.


30yearTech said:


> Also check the spark right after it dies, if you have no spark when the engine is hot, then the likely culprit is the ignition module.


Are you referring to the on/off switch or up near the spark plug (the coil - I think)? Thanks in advance.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

DaddyO78 said:


> Are you referring to the on/off switch or up near the spark plug (the coil - I think)? Thanks in advance.


Remove the spark plug lead from the spark plug and test for spark there, this will tell you if you have ignition spark when the engine dies or not. Make sure the kill switch is in the on position when you test.


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## DaddyO78 (Jun 17, 2010)

Again, I appreciate your time 30year. I think you may have misunderstood my question though. I understand how to check for spark, but I don't understand what part is likely to be bad if I don't have spark after the engine dies. The actual on/off switch, or the part up near the plug (coil?) that the wire FROM the on/off switch attaches to? Also, do you think a valve adjustment would do any good at this point? Could any of my symptoms be caused by "off" valves? Machine is four years old. 

Much appreciate your words of wisdom!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Yes, I did misunderstand your question. If you do not have any spark, then disconnect the kill (on/off) switch and retest. If you still have no spark, then the module is the likely culprit (part near the plug/coil). Of course if you get spark with the kill disconnected, then the switch is most likely the problem. I don't really think the valves are causing your problem, but after 4 years, it could be time to adjust them. I just carefully pry the valve cover off, once you break the seal on one of the corners, they usually come off pretty easy.


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## DaddyO78 (Jun 17, 2010)

I see said the blind man! Makes perfect sense and has me a little optomistic once again - I've been "stuck" for a couple of days now....debating on the valve adjustment. I read somewhere that you can heat the adhesive around the valve cover to remove it easily and w/out damaging - thoughts? 

Enjoy your weekend!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

DaddyO78 said:


> I read somewhere that you can heat the adhesive around the valve cover to remove it easily and w/out damaging - thoughts?
> 
> Enjoy your weekend!


I guess it would be worth a try. I have never done it like that, but I may give that a try next time I have a stubborn one.


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