# kdaracal's Viper M. II



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Here is my take on the Moebius Viper Mark II.

JT Graphics blue markings: 










I had good luck using an aftermarket vinyl canopy mask set from Graphic Encounters purchased here:

http://starshipmodeler.biz/shop/index.cfm/product/1765_27/moebius-132-viper-mk-ii-canopy-masks.cfm

Well worth the $5.95!
*Before-*









*After- *










*More............*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Another close-up of the vinyl mask success:










Some extra decals and details for the cockpit:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

The canopy turned out killer. No way I could have taped that pup off that good. You can use a little soapy water to slide the vinyl in perfect position. Then just dab excess water away and allow to dry over night. Then "burnish" the edges down just before painting with a wooden toothpick. 

I also used some Jupiter II decal leftovers from TSDS for some extra buttons and details inside the cockpit. I also super glued some cut paperclips as metal hand-holds for the "ejector" seat. They were already metallic green. Fun and quickie details I stole off the internet. Not as pretty as the pros, but I think it turned out kinda cool.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I used this paint for the other Viper pilot suit, so I have plenty left over for this resin beauty:










Some quick gold metallic for the helmet visor:










Fun stuff. Thanks for checking out my build. 
:wave:

*More later.............*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

The guys at Starship Modeller made a small mistake with my order, but corrected it right away. This is a great online store and the personal service is excellent! I highly recommend their store. Nice to know old fashioned service is still out there, even when ordering on the web.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Pilot in place. This figure does not have a "female" pilot version, like the Mark VII. So I guess I'll make this viper Apollo's. This cockpit looks much better than these extreme close-ups. I don't know why. To the naked eye, it looks great. This is another wonderful product from Moebius. Goes together perfect.




























Thanks for looking. Feel free to comment. Good or bad. I need the feedback!
:wave:

*More this weekend....... *


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

These pictures look 'speckled'. But I promise everything appears totally normal. Weird.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Looking good so far.....great job on the canopy


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

miniature sun said:


> Looking good so far.....great job on the canopy


Thanks, mini! Between Testor's Metalizers and vinyl paint masks, even I can't screw it up! Ha!


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Mighty pretty.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Been a long time since a build was such an epic fail that I threw it in the trash. here are some pre-file 13 pics:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple more for your viewing pleasure:



















So much for TOS Enterprise boost of confidence. I'm taking a modeling break for awhile.:freak:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

What was I thinking? Stupid rookie mistakes. Bone-headed waste of time.

Keeping it family friendly:

#@%&&@!*!!!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

What happened? I was looking at your pics and going to say you could have the female torso from the MKVII

Don't toss it, strip and start over...
Then while you are walking around naked you will realize I meant Get some Polly S paint remover..Testors sells it now 

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> What happened? I was looking at your pics and going to say you could have the female torso from the MKVII
> 
> Don't toss it, strip and start over...
> Then while you are walking around naked you will realize I meant Get some Polly S paint remover..Testors sells it now
> ...


Pretty sure it was the male-only version. My Mark VII had a female bust. I used it. 

Um.....Polly S? That's a first for me.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof542143.htm


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/flo/flof542143.htm


Thanks, Steve. You da man!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

What happened..looks like somebody sprayed it with "OFF!"
Ask me how I know what that stuff does to plastic....lol

Steve


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Never throw out a kit, almost every mistake is fixable.

Yes strip it. You can use the Testors if you like or you can go to any Auto-Zone or any other auto supply store and get some 'Super Clean' in the big purple jug.
Only $10.00 as compared to $8.00 for 1/10th the amount.

BTW: What DID you do that made that goof.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> What happened..looks like somebody sprayed it with "OFF!"
> Ask me how I know what that stuff does to plastic....lol
> 
> Steve


Wait! A good and very experienced modeler told me to use Easy Off! I take it that didn't work for you?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

ClubTepes said:


> Never throw out a kit, almost every mistake is fixable.
> 
> Yes strip it. You can use the Testors if you like or you can go to any Auto-Zone or any other auto supply store and get some 'Super Clean' in the big purple jug.
> Only $10.00 as compared to $8.00 for 1/10th the amount.
> ...


I looked all over town yesterday for Purple Power and Poly S, with no luck. But Super Clean at the auto store, you say? Thanks! 

Btw, just impatient modeling caused this. Not letting coats dry, too many thick, wet coats, sloppy with the salt weathering, etc....
Ten year old mistakes.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

_"Madge, you're soaking in it"_

Yep. Found the Purple Power at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. The Viper is soaking in it.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

kdaracal said:


> _"Madge, you're soaking in it"_
> 
> Yep. Found the Purple Power at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. The Viper is soaking in it.


It's good stuff for stripping paint. Used it on some enamel paint that was about, oh, maybe twenty years old... got about 90% of it off. Plus I got a cheap high from the fumes.:freak:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I got the first and worst layers off. But the cockpit is a total loss. the only part that looked good. Well, I'll paint the inner canopy surface black, and call it good.....


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

kdaracal said:


> I got the first and worst layers off. But the cockpit is a total loss. the only part that looked good. Well, I'll paint the inner canopy surface black, and call it good.....


What happened to the cockpit?

I've never used 'Purple Power' but 'Super Clean' doesn't affect plastic.
(I've left stuff soaking for days and days.)


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

ClubTepes said:


> What happened to the cockpit?
> 
> I've never used 'Purple Power' but 'Super Clean' doesn't affect plastic.
> (I've left stuff soaking for days and days.)


No, I mean I was proud of the paint job and that was ruined. With it glued all up in Super Glue, no good way to remove it and paint over. Also, the decals were dissolved. 

But I'll just paint the inner surface of the canopy and cover the interior. It will be a blacked out studio version! Ha!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Post Purple Power soak pictures. Scrubbed and ready for fresh primer-


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

It looks terrible, but it's smoother than a baby's bottom. :thumbsup:

Thanks for all the tips on this salvage operation!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Using Testor's Metalizer Magnesium lacquer undercoat before table salt application:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Little table salt for weathering. I protected the cockpit interior and the engine intakes with Silly Putty again. The pilot figure paint job destroyed, but the cockpit surround held it's color, so I MIGHT attempt to repaint him and leave the canopy clear.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I'll head by Hobby Lobby tonight and pick up some lacquer gloss white and see if I can get a good base coat effect.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Lookin' like it's gonna be a good recovery.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Lookin' like it's gonna be a good recovery.


Thanks! I was able to pop the pilot out of his Super Glue seat, and the other interior cockpit paints are in good shape. I used some old leftover decal buttons to refurbish the interior instrumentation. Not accurate, but at least it's something. So maybe I won't "black out" the canopy, after all. 

:thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple more progress pictures:


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Interesting idea with the salt...never seen that done before...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This will be fine now, no worries.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

whiskeyrat said:


> Interesting idea with the salt...never seen that done before...


The 'salt' technique has been around for quite a while.
I think the armor guys used it first.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of it, as the results are a little unpredictable.

I like the 'hairspray' technique myself.

It takes a touch more effort, but you can do as much or as little as you like.
And IMHO, looks more like scratched off paint.

There are videos for both techniques on YouTube that you can watch and decide for yourself.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

whiskeyrat said:


> Interesting idea with the salt...never seen that done before...


I've use the hairspray and the salt method with some success. this one was a little hurried and I used it with lacquer, which affected the outcome somewhat. After decals and some chalk pastels it will be an "OK" build. 

My Viper Mark VII is my favorite "salted" model. I used a Tamiya enamel on this one:










Also my Aliens Power Loader really needed some good "scaled" weathering:










Here is how my Star Wars A Wing turned out using the hairspray method:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Hairspray in a nutshell:*
1. Enamel undercoat color
2. Aquanet hairspray layer from the old fashioned aerosol can
3. Main top coat color in acrylic

Wipe, wash or scrape away to desired effect. (I "pulled" it off of the A Wing with regular, not-so-gentle white masking tape)

*Salt Technique:* 
1. Enamel undercoat of your choice
2. Using water with a drop or two of dish soap, "paint" the water where you need to expose the undercoat. (less is more, as you can see by my crappy job)
3. Sprinkle normal table salt on to wet areas with a spoon
4. Let dry thoroughly (another boo-boo I made on this one) Dried salt is very fragile, handle with care.
5. Enamel top coat. Let dry thoroughly again. Gently knock off salt with fingers.

Play with the salt to get it to do your bidding. "Melty" salt will give a different effect. Practice and patience makes perfect.

:wave:


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

kdaracal said:


> *Hairspray in a nutshell:*
> 1. Enamel undercoat color
> 2. Aquanet hairspray layer from the old fashioned aerosol can
> 3. Main top coat color in acrylic
> ...


Eeeenteresting... never really heard of either method before. The A Wing looks good! The effect it produces is really like cracked off paint at scale. But doesn't the hairspray method mean that ALL of the topcoat has the potential to either flake or rub off? I get real nervous using new techniques like these... You're right about practice, Kdaracal, my USS Pioneer proved that I need a lot more...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

whiskeyrat said:


> Eeeenteresting... never really heard of either method before. The A Wing looks good! The effect it produces is really like cracked off paint at scale. But doesn't the hairspray method mean that ALL of the topcoat has the potential to either flake or rub off? I get real nervous using new techniques like these... You're right about practice, Kdaracal, my USS Pioneer proved that I need a lot more...


I guess the issue for me was the _scaled_ weathering. These are just quick techniques that are easy for a novice like me. Gives me better results because I don't use an airbrush and my skills are rookie, at best. 

By the way, the A Wing is still intact and looking good after several years. The salt is cool because, although you cannot see it in the photos, the worn look is at its best in the areas of where a single salt crystal stuck and stayed. It adds a level of realism to the areas you cannot see in the photos.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Done with decals....mostly. Few more "NO STEP".

Now all I need is a light black wash and dull coat.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

The salted areas hold the acrylic black wash nice and subtle like. On the bigger damaged areas, I'll add some nice blast marks and whatnot with these:










They were recommended by a fellow modeler friend.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

That is really lookin' sweet! :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> That is really lookin' sweet! :thumbsup:


Thanks, man. You and the others kept me in the game on this one. A few days ago, I pulled it out of the trash. Literally......


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Never give up.......


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

As a thank you to you gentlemen, I'd like to offer these for *FREE*:

*New Aztek Dummy Paint Masks for the Moebius Viper Mark II*








*
Leftover red decal set from my Moebius Viper II*









This was shipped to me accidentally by the folks at Starship Modeller web store. Those guys are very professional and made my order right, immediately. They are wonderful and I highly recommend using them and will buy from them again.

Having said that said, I really appreciate all the help from my buds and budettes at HT over the years and I never really give back. I have used the Aztek Dummy paint masks from Lou and they work fantastic! They are easy enough to deal with and the results are amazing. They take a little patience and care, though, and are not for the casual modeler. The decal leftovers are nice to have around but I took many of the "Non Stripe" detail decals for my own blue version. I will probably never do another Mark II and they'll sit unused collecting dust.

Just PM me with a request. (I won't say no if you have something *small* to trade, but no worries. They'll still be free to whoever wants them)


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> A few days ago, I pulled it out of the trash. Literally......


NO WAY! Really? Dude, if it isn't MELTED no model is a total write off! You are proving that now! Kudos!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

falcondesigns said:


> Never give up.......


Never surrender---?


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## redline hunter (Jan 9, 2008)

Nice rally!




Doug


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, everyone! here are some finished pictures:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

One more for the road...










*PM me for free mask set...*


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

For something that was literally (albeit briefly) in the trash, it looks like it came out just as it was _meant_ to...


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Beautiful work buddy! Way to turn this one around. You should be proud. :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, guys! 

The "photoshopped' one isn't _really_ photopshopped. I Googled 'star field', enlarged a random picture from the internet and held the model up to the computer screen and snapped a quick picture. Then I opened the composite photo in Windows Paint, and filled in the clear stand with the marker tool.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Nice save! Glad you didn't give up on this one, it looks great!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, again, everyone. On to the next...............I have the next 6 work days off and the weekends. I have some building to do!


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