# Putty Problems



## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

I have never been good with putty. I've used stuff fcrom Testors but I didn't like it. I switched to Tamiya and its good but dries too fast for me. I switched to Squadron and that too dries too fast. What would you all recommend to thin it out a bit so I can take more time and actually fill gaps with it?
I can't read the Japanese on the Tamiya tubes ( I live in Korea) and there is no instruction for thinning on the Squadron. Any suggestions?
Thanks!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You can thin any of the hobby model putties (Squadron, Tamiya etc) with either liquid cement like Tamiya Extra Thin, Testors, etc. or Lacquer/Cellulose thinner.

You might try something like Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. Its a lacquer based, liquid putty. Works great.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Get some AVES. It's available at the SSM Store. They have a nice starter pack that has the thinner paste version along with the putty. You also get a bottle of safety solvent but it's water based so you can smooth it with a wet Q-tip or finger. It usually takes 15-20 minutes to set up so you have plenty of time to push it into crevices and smooth it. I discovered it a few years ago and it's really the best stuff I've ever used. No shrinkage either and it's easily filed and sanded. Once it's fully cured, it's rock hard.


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## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

Trekkriffic said:


> Get some AVES. It's available at the SSM Store. They have a nice starter pack that has the thinner paste version along with the putty. You also get a bottle of safety solvent but it's water based so you can smooth it with a wet Q-tip or finger. It usually takes 15-20 minutes to set up so you have plenty of time to push it into crevices and smooth it. I discovered it a few years ago and it's really the best stuff I've ever used. No shrinkage either and it's easily filed and sanded. Once it's fully cured, it's rock hard.


I just started using Aves a month ago and have to agree it is the best. Squadron can be thinned with acetone.


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

There is also a product that I use from Mr. Hobby called "Mr. Dissolved Putty". It works great for me.

http://www.hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/putty/mr-dissolved-putty.html


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Thanks everyone for the great tips!
I just happen to have a large supply of Tamiya liquid cement! And my wife has acetone in her nail polish remover!
Mike


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

You can get two part bondo for autobody repair.
Its the best thing. Sold in every country too.
Cures in minutes, and a lot harder then the putty stuff.
Hope that helps.


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## Nektu (Aug 15, 2001)

I use Liquitex "Modeling Paste" with great success on many seams, etc. It's water based, and dries hard as a rock. Sands great, takes primer great. Really good on figures, and seams on Moebius stuff. Worth a try!

KK


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

I still need something that won't leave the seam after I sand. Even though I leave a layer, you can still see the seam. 

Trouble with aves is that you can see the edges but it does a good job on the seam itself.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I started using Bondo red body putty in the large squeeze tube. It sticks well, is quite fluid out of the tube, dries quickly, and sands easily. I have been very happy with it overall since I started. If you need to have a very solid protuberance or to mold something into the putty, rather than just filling a seam or such, then the Aves works great. I have had a bit of trouble though getting the Aves to stick while curing. I've used the Tamiya and the Squadron but fairly well switched to the Bondo stuff since reading about it.


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## Bruce Bishop (Jan 17, 1999)

Aves doesn't really have a problem at the edges any more than you have with anything you use to fill a seam, gap or hole. 

You just have to sand carefully and with fine grit around the edges. There were several gaps in Iron Man's crotch area, front and back, when I modified his pose and widened the crotch slightly. 

And I don't think you can see where I put the putty and which is the plastic. If you do, you have better eyesight than I do.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Nektu said:


> I use Liquitex "Modeling Paste" with great success on many seams, etc. It's water based, and dries hard as a rock. Sands great, takes primer great. Really good on figures, and seams on Moebius stuff. Worth a try!
> 
> KK


I'll check that out at my local art store!


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

djnick66 said:


> You can thin any of the hobby model putties (Squadron, Tamiya etc) with either liquid cement like Tamiya Extra Thin, Testors, etc. or Lacquer/Cellulose thinner.
> 
> You might try something like Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. Its a lacquer based, liquid putty. Works great.


I Have a bottle of the tamiya white surface primer that was given to me unopened. I thought it was a primer for use with an airbrush only stuff, But you say you can use it to fill some seams ? what is the limit of seam size ? I am thinking of the BIG moebius seaview and the seams where the front & back hulls join & the seam around the window in the nose. How is the tamiya liquid surface primer applied, how much & how long does it take to cure and what is needed to smooth it down ? I also have a new tube of squadron white putty, never tried that stuff before either. Thats all my hobbyshops carry, no alves there.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I use 3m acryl blue or red, this is about the only putty that really bites into the plastic, wet sand and you get a smooth finish.:thumbsup:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

IMHO the best thing to do is TEST stuff. If you have it, try it out!

The Tamiya stuff isn't great for large gaps... its a liquid filler. Its good for hair line gaps, cracks, small stuff. Its also good for filling surface imperfections and air bubbles in resin kits.

Here are some putty use examples:

The red areas on the fusilage spine are Bondo glazing putty (the stuff in the tube). Its not bad and sand easily (too easily?). If you look closely, the whitish areas along the wing root are the Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. It filled the gaps there and requires less sanding.










Squadron Green Putty was used to fill around the nose and oil cooler on this Spitfire PR XIX.










If you look closely here, you can see some Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer around the fusilage camera port (had gaps around the clear insert) and the wing fillet joint

Here is some Sqadron Green Putty on a DH Hornet. There was a bit of stagger in the joint.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Magesblood said:


> Trouble with aves is that you can see the edges but it does a good job on the seam itself.


How fine a grit of sandpaper are you using ? Do you use sanding films or pads ? You want to go up to at least 600 in fineness to get it really smooth.


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