# 2005/2006 Corvette 1/24 questions



## FLKitbuilder (Apr 10, 2011)

I'm planning to build a 2005 Corvette convertible to match the real one I own. I have the Snap-Tite kit for the 2005 'Vette convertible. Does anyone know if this body will work with the 2006 Corvette Coupe kit, which is a standard 1/24 scale car kit? 

Both are 1/24, but that doesn't necessarily mean they'll work together. What I want to do is build everything on the Coupe except the body. Theoretically, the chassis should be the same, except that the body of the coupe is a hatchback while the convertible has a small trunk. 

Sorry if this sounds like a newb question, but I'm primarily a figure kit builder. I haven't built a car since my teens..and that was about 45 years ago. 

Also, what's the best combination to use to get the Silver color on a Corvette?


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## Modlerbob (Feb 10, 2011)

Are they both from the same company, say Revell? If so they may be interchangeable but as I only have one of the kits in question I'm not sure. You may be able to find the convertible as a regular kit like the coupe too.


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## FLKitbuilder (Apr 10, 2011)

No, Bob, they don't make a regular '05 Vette convertible kit. I've checked extensively. I just found a regular '05 Coupe kit by Revell online. It was sold on Ebay. 
By the way, I was wrong about the scale. It's 1/25 not 1/24. I guess it's worth a few extra bucks to buy the other kit. If it doesn't work. at least I have another Vette to build


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## spencer1984 (Nov 3, 2005)

They should fit together pretty well - you'll have to do some work since the mounts will be wrong, but no problems that can't be solved with some careful test fitting.

As for the color, I went right to the source for my Corvette model: the Atomic Orange was touch-up paint that I bought from a local Chevy dealer. I figure it doesn't get closer than that!


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## FLKitbuilder (Apr 10, 2011)

Nice job. I've got to wash my Vette, but I'll post a couple of pics of it here when I get that done. Great idea going to the touch up paint, but will it work with an airbrush, or do they also have it in cans?


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## spencer1984 (Nov 3, 2005)

Thanks! I used a rattle can, but they also (usually) have bottles that can be thinned and shot through an airbrush if you prefer.


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## superduty455 (Jun 21, 2000)

FLKitbuilder-- If you have an airbrush and you want to run factory correct colors out of it may I suggest giving Scalefinises.com a try?

I order almost all of my airbrush paint through him. Jameston ships for free and the paint is outstanding.
Here are a few of my cars with his paint:
Corvette ZR1 in Jetstream Blue









Aston Martin in Morning Frost Pearl









Porsche 911 GT3 in Macadamia Metallic:









Of course with any paint you use, the more coats you apply the darker it will become. Same goes for the color of primer you use. 
Looking forward to pictures of the cars!
Chris


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## FLKitbuilder (Apr 10, 2011)

Right now I'm working on a Munster Koach. I have the body done, with the curtains and door painted. The interior is finished and painted. I'm going to strip the chrome off the plated parts and use Alclad on them instead. This is one of the older kits without the decals for the gold detail lines. I have no clue how I'm going to do those. Advice and tips would be greatly appreciated. 
Also, I foolishly attached the rear fenders before painting and in trying to mask off the yellow area, they broke off. I need to fashion about 1/4" bars which came off the fenders and offset them from the frame. They are very thin. What can I use? Normally, when I break off a piece from a figure kit, I refashion it with Magic Sculpt, but that won't work here. This is becoming harder than it looked originally. 

From the figure below, you can see where the top tab on the left fender was glued. It is still at normal length. All the others are shorter, obviously. I have no idea what to do here, although I have heard that if you hold a piece of sprue between two sets of needle nose pliers and heat it, you can stretch it to create very thin pieces of plastic.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

I have used brass rod for instances like that. You can get it in many different sizes and just cut the length you need. It's more durable than plastic and you can paint it.


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## Ian Anderson (Jan 24, 2011)

scottnkat said:


> I have used brass rod for instances like that. You can get it in many different sizes and just cut the length you need. It's more durable than plastic and you can paint it.



And here is a link where you will find that material that Scott has pointed out to you, You will also find plenty of Plastic styrene pieces that will do the same job there on that site as well.
..lol..But be careful man, and take a fools advice here, This site is Loaded with Great stuff, I have spent FAR TO MUCH MONEY THERE ALREADY, and if you aren't careful, you will have the same problem,......lol..


http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s164.htm



Ian


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## FLKitbuilder (Apr 10, 2011)

Thanks, guys. I can get most of that stuff at my local Hobbytown USA. They have the brass rods and the Evergreen and Plastruct pieces. 

It's not that site that has me fearing for my wallet, but the Model Car Garage and Detail Master sites. I fear you can go thru a lot of $$$ just getting parts to accurize and/or customize your car models.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

that's true - lots of good stuff on those sites


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

FLKitbuilder--any way you can replicate the broken/missing pieces with your Magic Sculpt by temporarily assembling the fenders and bridging the gap with the putty?

I am not familiar with the kit in question, so I don't know how it assembles or what will or won't be ultimately hidden. But if you apply vaseline or similar to the car side, and put the putty on the fender side, bridging over to the car side, once cured, you can pop off the fenders with the putty extensions, then carve them down to replicate what's gone.

I've fixed many a broken part and filled many gaps with this method. 

Just a thought.


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## FLKitbuilder (Apr 10, 2011)

No, Machgo. The parts are much too thin. I went to my trusty Hobbytown USA and bought some very small Plastruct strips. It's irritating though. It costs about $5. There's about 10 or so 12" long strips, I only need about 3 or 4" out of all that. I think I only paid $10 for the whole model at Hobby Lobby 5 years ago. 
LOL.


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