# seam filling and sprue ????



## Robert Wolfe (Dec 24, 2003)

i would like to know how many people use the superglue and baking soda method for filling seams? and would this work on plastic figure kits? i have just heard about this method and also is it really better cutting parts off the sprue with a sprue cutter than geting close with a hobby knife i hate to spend the money if it really doesn't matter much but would if it makes a difference anything at this point to help me along a little THANKS rob


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Robert,

Superglue and baking soda work fine, but the mix has a rough finish you'll have to smooth promptly. Same goes for any use of superglue as a filler, since it will cure harder than styrene after an hour or so and then be a real bear to sand smooth.

Sprue cutters are a very handy item to have only because they offer a little more control when removing parts from the sprue. And there's lees chance of the part "pinging" off into the wild blue yonder. Otherwise, if you're careful to secure the part so it doesn't get launched when you wield your knife, there's no overhwelming advantage to using to cutters.

BTW, I see you're in Ohio. Are you planning to attend the IPMS Nationals in Columbus come August?

Mark McG.


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## Robert Wolfe (Dec 24, 2003)

HI MARK and thanks for the info yes i hope to attend the show mayby on fri if work will allow it rob


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## bigdaddydaveh (Jul 20, 2007)

I take a half-full bottle of Ambroid Pro-Weld and drop in small cut up pieces of sprue. Let it sit for a few hours and it produces a nice Elmer's Glue consistancy goop that can be brushed on gaps and uneven seams. It will only work well on surfaces without raised detail like on a figure kit. You can apply it and follow up quickly by brushing on more straight Pro-Weld to smooth and feather it out. The kids and I call it "sprue-goo" and it works great for filling ejector pin marks and sink holes too! If it gets too thick in the bottle, just add more Pro-Weld to thin it out.


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## frankenstyrene (Oct 5, 2006)

I'm experimenting with doing the same thing now with a baby food jar of straight toluene and plastic scrap.


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## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

bigdaddydaveh said:


> I take a half-full bottle of Ambroid Pro-Weld and drop in small cut up pieces of sprue. Let it sit for a few hours and it produces a nice Elmer's Glue consistancy goop that can be brushed on gaps and uneven seams. It will only work well on surfaces without raised detail like on a figure kit. You can apply it and follow up quickly by brushing on more straight Pro-Weld to smooth and feather it out. The kids and I call it "sprue-goo" and it works great for filling ejector pin marks and sink holes too! If it gets too thick in the bottle, just add more Pro-Weld to thin it out.


Nice tip :thumbsup:

That one goes right to the save pile.

RK


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## TAY666 (Jan 8, 2000)

I used a similar method to build my Homer Mobile a long time ago.
I didn't want to paint the kit, so I filled the gap at the fins with liquified sprue so it would match perfectly.
A little fine sanding to smooth it out and it looked pretty good.

Sorry, don't have pics anymore, and the kit went bye-bye a while ago also.


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## Jaruemalak (Jun 12, 2008)

bigdaddydaveh said:


> I take a half-full bottle of Ambroid Pro-Weld and drop in small cut up pieces of sprue. Let it sit for a few hours and it produces a nice Elmer's Glue consistancy goop that can be brushed on gaps and uneven seams. It will only work well on surfaces without raised detail like on a figure kit. You can apply it and follow up quickly by brushing on more straight Pro-Weld to smooth and feather it out. The kids and I call it "sprue-goo" and it works great for filling ejector pin marks and sink holes too! If it gets too thick in the bottle, just add more Pro-Weld to thin it out.


Although I use toluene instead of Pro-Weld, Ive used this method for over 30 years, and it works great. The nice thing is that you can use it to make "Glow in the Dark" seam filler by using the sprue from a glow in the dark kit.


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

I have heard about the plastic goop method for a while, but I've just started using it and I like it, easy to change the consistency by adding more glue or just letting it evaporate a little first. If there is raised detail, you can always put down some masking tape first on each side (I like the Tamiya best because it is so thin), lay the goop down and then remove the tape before it starts thickening up too much or you could pull some away.

I'll is use my scraps from my plastic rods and sheet saw none of it goes to waste, but if you use the sprue from the model you are working on, it will look like one solid piece of the same color plastic making priming easier.

I remember an older car model magazine where the guy used some aluminum foil and a toothpick over some instruments making a simple mold, peeled away carefully and then put some of the plastic goop in it and after it dried, he had a part looking just like the kit instruments that could be attached using regular plastic cement.

If you're looking for sprue snippers, check out the ladies section at a place like Wal-Mart or target and pick up one of the cuticle snippers, pretty much the same thing at between 1/4 and 1/2 of the price. Their different fingernail files are great and cheap also.


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## Robert Wolfe (Dec 24, 2003)

THANKS MUCH FOR THE INFO i may just have to try that goop method thanks again rob


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## bigdaddydaveh (Jul 20, 2007)

Just make sure you are in a well ventilated room. The fumes are pretty strong on that type of solvent cement. I have an exhaust duct above my workbench attached to my spray booth. I don't want the kids turning out as wacked in the head as their old man!


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## Robert Wolfe (Dec 24, 2003)

ok i am gonna try this thing with some ambroid pro weld and a bottle to keep it in how long is this stuff good for after i mix it THANKS


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## bigdaddydaveh (Jul 20, 2007)

As long as it's sealed it will maintain the same consistancy. If it gets too thick, you can simply add more Pro-Weld.


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