# Moebius 1:6 Robot B9 - Planning what to put in it.



## Fernando Mureb

*Moebius 1:16 Robot B9 - Planning what to put in it.*

Besides the OOB build and paint, what are you planning to put in our long waited bubble-headed booby?

These are my plans:

-Voice and chest light synchronized
-Control panel buttons with lights
-Control panel small lenses in a random flash
-Programming Unit lights
-Brain lights in a random flash and eyes with steady light (supposing that there will be enough space in the neck to pass thin wires)
-Soil sampler rotating

Now dreaming out : would be the light rods in the bubble thick enough to alow the use of FO?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Now dreaming out : would be the light rods in the bubble thick enough to alow the use of FO?


I already have the Finger lights taken care of, I made these for the Masudaya
B-9 I stopped working on after Moebius announced their offering...... 
I have so many other ideas for this build, can't wait....


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe!

I had forgotten those pictures. So, yeah... one more item to my plans.

I am also playing with two others ideas that I already have heard somewhere: to place a rechargeable battery inside, using the power pack as a switch on/off. 

The female plug for the battery could be placed behind the same aperture of the soil sampler, I guess, otherwise below one of the tread sections.


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## Fernando Mureb

Does anyone know whether this kit allows to rotate the torso of the robot?


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## djnick66

1/16?


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## RSN

1/6 scale!


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## Fernando Mureb

Yeah. I have opened maybe eight threads so far. I made mistakes in half the titles.


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## Zombie_61

Fernando Mureb said:


> Does anyone know whether this kit allows to rotate the torso of the robot?


Looking at this photo of the instruction sheet (specifically step 6A), I believe the torso will be able to rotate if assembled properly.


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## kdaracal

Yea, black box says "do not glue for torso rotation". I'd say that is a sure sign.


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## RSN

Frank posted yesterday that the cargo ship is delayed at sea and will not make port for a few more days. Expect the kits to be available from merchants the first of January.


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## Fernando Mureb

Zombie_61 said:


> Looking at this photo of the instruction sheet (specifically step 6A), I believe the torso will be able to rotate if assembled properly.





kdaracal said:


> Yea, black box says "do not glue for torso rotation". I'd say that is a sure sign.


That's good news. I don't bother to give it a RC moving capability but I will try to make it rotate to both sides with a stepper motor.


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## Seaview

RSN said:


> Frank posted yesterday that the cargo ship is delayed at sea and will not make port for a few more days. Expect the kits to be available from merchants the first of January.


HAH! Just as I predicted (on a different thread)! :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

I have meditated a bit about the new robot and I am doing some sketches with ideas for lighting the chest control panel. When we have the model at hands and we can clarify some questions I'll post them here.

With regard to my desire to make the torso rotate by remote control, at first I thought of fixing the stepper motor into the legs and a gear inside the torso, but I think that due to the material used in the legs manufacture, it would be more correct, perhaps, fix the motor inside the torso and a support gear on the donut.

Just thoughts.


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## Y3a

Getting a few of the teeny RC tanks for use as the treads has me thinking about stuff. Torso, scanning side to side on a lazy suzan bearing, arms waving, or outstretched, head bobbing up n down….. All by RC.


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## Fernando Mureb

Wow! They will be five motors (?), perhaps. Anyway, a lot of engineering ahead.


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## xsavoie

I know mini servos for remote controls exist,but the robot being 1/6th scale,will their be enough space to accommodate all 5 of them.


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## RSN

xsavoie said:


> I know mini servos for remote controls exist,but the robot being 1/6th scale,will their be enough space to accommodate all 5 of them.


The kit has been designed to be bigger on the inside than the outside! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

RSN said:


> The kit has been designed to be bigger on the inside than the outside! :thumbsup:


LOL. So, let's also do rotating sensors. :tongue:


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## Fernando Mureb

Meditating...

Neon made with electroluminescent wire.

Computer tape coming out of the programing unit.

Torso knob as a on-off switch (when the power pack is in place).


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## Gary K

Fernando Mureb said:


> Does anyone know whether this kit allows to rotate the torso of the robot?


I do! I do! 

Yes, the Robot can rotate at the torso. In addition, the radar section, which the "ears" are attached to, can rotate. The arms are positionable, since the wrists can rotate on the vinyl arms, and the entire arms can rotate at the shoulder joints. 

Lighting the neon mouth should be fairly straightforward. The design of the neon is similar to a clear plastic ladder. Once you paint the insides of the side rails black, bright lights positioned on the outsides of the rails should light up the "rungs" of the neon ladder. At least, that's the theory.

Gary


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for the exciting tips, Gary!

The high degree of detailment of this kit shows that its is a product made by LIS-fan modelers, with love, beside being business man.

As for the neon, my guess is that the scale of the kit calls for a solution that doesn't let it show hot spots from behind.


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## Fernando Mureb

New idea: make the microphone removable and retractable using that mechanism we see on wired mouses.


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## Y3a

The small servos I deal with are 1/2 " long! They control pitch, roll and yaw on my micro 4 channel helicopter from BLADE. I recently dorked a Gee-Bee racing airplane, but all the electronics and wiring is intact. It even has solid state gyros. They make quite a few teeny RC servos for the indoor RC crowd. The little RC tanks might be a good starting spot for those working treads. I see we can easily put over a grand in stuff inside this kit!!!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks, buddy! The exchange of ideas will be very helpful for all of us here in HT.

As for lighting and sound, I'm swinging undecided between TSDS and Starling kits.


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## Fernando Mureb

Well, I guess I go with the TSDS kit. As it has the ability to store three distinct series of sounds, I can put sentences in a controller, songs of series in another and those noises from relays opening and closing, which sometimes can be heard.

Moreover, I can create two distinct series of blinking LEDs: one for the control panel on the torso and the other to the brain.

Well, at least I guess it's possible from what I have read on Henry's site.


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## Fernando Mureb

Maybe this is a dumb question, but, anyway, do you think it would be possible to motorize the tread section using the tracks provided or they should be hidden wheels under those sections?


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## Paulbo

The tracks are molded in, not separate.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Paul.

This simplify the challenge a bit I guess. 

I don't know if the capability to turn towards the sides while in movement can be made with four wheels, two of the same side tractioning forward and the other two tractioning aft, mimicking the effect of the Chariot treads.

May be we will have to have three wheels, being one to drive the robot.


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## Opus Penguin

I am looking forward to tips and tricks everyone comes up with. I will be building this for my daughter who loves this robot and I would like to light it up as much as possible. Anyone planning to have the brain rods bob up and down as seen in the earlier seasons?


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## Fernando Mureb

I have seen (at B9 Builders site) the engineering required to this simple movement to happens and I don't know if the scale and the room inside the bubble will allow us to build it up. Well, at least medium skill level guys like me.


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## RSN

Fernando Mureb said:


> I have seen (at B9 Builders site) the engineering required to this simple movement to happens and I don't know if the scale and the room inside the bubble will allow us to build it up. Well, at least medium skill level guys like me.


I am glad you said that first. I have been reading all the things people want to do to this model to make it move and function like the full size costume from the show. As a builder of the full size Robot, I can tell you that it can be a struggle to get things to fit at 1/1 scale, I personally don't think it is worth the headache at 1/6 scale. For me, of the three I am planning on building, only one will have lights and they may not even flash, the rest will be painted to simulate the lights.

I am not saying it is impossible, so please don't jump on me and tell me I am "wrong", I am just passing along some of my experiences. If you can get it to work, I look forward to seeing it and admitting I was too cynical!! :thumbsup:


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## fxshop

I have been working on a test shot for a few months, Its a wonderful model kit with outstanding accuracy... However its a little more cramped then you all think, I like all the ideas & some of the effects can be pulled off, but room runs out fast, just the lighting alone sucks up alot of space in the main body... I am looking forward to seeing your build up Fernando...


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## Fernando Mureb

After had built two 1/24 B9 recently and in the way to build the third (for the Moebius Chariot) it's almost an obligation, if wasn't a great pleasure, to give lights to the 1/6.

But regarding to motorizing, For now my only intention is to make a rotating torso and soil sampler, if any.

Randy, you will certainly come up with a lighting kit, won't you?


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## Y3a

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Paul.
> 
> This simplify the challenge a bit I guess.
> 
> I don't know if the capability to turn towards the sides while in movement can be made with four wheels, two of the same side tractioning forward and the other two tractioning aft, mimicking the effect of the Chariot treads.
> 
> May be we will have to have three wheels, being one to drive the robot.


You get a pair of the teeny RC tanks. you set up RC for your 2 tanks. Left tank runs straight, so does right tank. Slow down motor in one tank for it to steer towards that direction. You'll be rebuilding the feet to do this.


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## Fernando Mureb

Y3a said:


> You get a pair of the teeny RC tanks. you set up RC for your 2 tanks. Left tank runs straight, so does right tank. Slow down motor in one tank for it to steer towards that direction. You'll be rebuilding the feet to do this.


So it would be just a matter of offering different speeds of rotation for each axis and thus be able to change direction? I'm sorry for my ignorance. This one seems to me very simple. Maybe I will change my mind. Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## fxshop

Fernando Mureb said:


> After had built two 1/24 B9 recently and in the way to build the third (for the Moebius Chariot) it's almost an obligation, if wasn't a great pleasure, to give lights to the 1/6.
> 
> But regarding to motorizing, For now my only intention is to make a rotating torso and soil sampler, if any.
> 
> Randy, you will certainly come up with a lighting kit, won't you?


Yes I have a general lighting system that could work for this model.


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## ViperRecon

Fernando Mureb said:


> So it would be just a matter of offering different speeds of rotation for each axis and thus be able to change direction? I'm sorry for my ignorance. This one seems to me very simple. Maybe I will change my mind. Thanks! :thumbsup:


Hi Fernando,

It's called a "differential drive." It's used in everything from large tanks to small experimental robot kits. The effectiveness of the system you go with is going to depend at least partly on how heavy the robot is and how much torque the drive system has. RC tanks come in a lot of sizes though, so you should be able to find something that will work assuming there is room inside the robot for all of the electronics. Heck, Tamiya even has a gear/motor set that might work (There are videos on Youtube that show how this can be controlled with an Arduino or other circuitry) and there are basic chassis kits for home robotics experimenters available with all kinds of options and price points (Here's a good blog post on something that might just do the trick if you don't want to completely swap out the molded-in tracks with a functional set).

Mark in Okinawa


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you Mark. I assume that with one movement of the joystick the RC can sent a dual command to the motors, so that one motor slow down speed while the other keep its speed. Is it right, or the RC must have one joystick for each motor?


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## ViperRecon

Hmm. I think you can probably do that (one stick controls all of the movement: forward, reverse, left and right). One stick for each motor seems like a more normal approach though - you get much more control and a wider range of movement that way I think. Most of the tanks I've played with were set up that way.

My RC experience is very limited I'm afraid.

Mark in Okinawa


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## kdaracal

fxshop said:


> I have been working on a test shot for a few months, Its a wonderful model kit with outstanding accuracy... However its a little more cramped then you all think, I like all the ideas & some of the effects can be pulled off, but room runs out fast, just the lighting alone sucks up alot of space in the main body... I am looking forward to seeing your build up Fernando...


I hope to use a nice box base to place speaker(s), power, button mounts and other "off board" essentials inside.


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## Fernando Mureb

kdaracal said:


> I hope to use a nice box base to place speaker(s), power, button mounts and other "off board" essentials inside.


Chrisisall built a Masudaya Robot and was successful in put all the electronics aboard.


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## xsavoie

True.But Masudaya's Lost In Space Robot is 1/5th scale I believe.Not that much difference in scale I guess,but still.


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## Fernando Mureb

I hope that Teslabe or someone else who is gonna motorize the tread sections, posts the circuit schematics so that we can learn how to command the motors with a RC trough the driver boards. 

Not to mention the torso rotation.


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## Arkons

*Yahoo!*

I am so excited to build this model! I hope it comes out in the next couple of weeks. I'm on vacation soon and really would love to build it while I'm off work and can devote the time to it. Having built a full size robot, this will be so much fun! I am so thankful to all involved in making this kit available. I've never seen such an accurate and detailed model of the Robot. I am looking so forward to seeing how everyone takes on this project on here and seeing their tips and tricks. We have some very talented, creative people on here and I learn from so many of you!


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## Fernando Mureb

It seems that at least two guys in this thread are about to receive their kits.


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## Gary K

Ho-hum.... I've had Robot test shots sitting around here for months! 

Gary


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## Fernando Mureb

You bad boy! ! 

However...

I HAVE JUST RECEIVED CULT'S PREORDER EMAIL! !:tongue:

January, 14 is THE DAY! :woohoo:


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## Moderbuilderzero

Voodoo, are you planning a light kit? If so, is it the chest only, or other components?

Thx,
MBZ.


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## Fernando Mureb

I guess I would better buying some bottles of transparent paint for the chest buttons, to be applied from behind: white, red, yellow, light green, dark green and dark blue.


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## RSN

Fernando Mureb said:


> I guess I would better buying some bottles of transparent paint for the chest buttons, to be applied from behind: white, red, yellow, light green, dark green and dark blue.


Orange as well!! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

RSN said:


> Orange as well!! :thumbsup:


Ops! It's true. Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I guess I would better buying some bottles of transparent paint for the chest buttons, to be applied from behind: white, red, yellow, light green, dark green and dark blue.



I use these for most of my LED coloring, saves me the trouble of ordering individual color LEDs.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe! Yes, for me Tamiya is the way to go.


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## Fernando Mureb

Ok, judging by the lack of detailed plans posted here, it seems that most modelers are intending to surprise our community. In this way, their plans are under top secret restrictions. 

It will be a time of great excitement, like when Moebius released the LIS and VTTBOTS vehicles. :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> using the power pack as a switch on/off.


I did that on my client's Masudaya, remember?:wave:


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## Gary K

Just asking - can anybody correct the scale of the Robot kit to 1:6 in the subject line of this thread?

Gary


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## Fernando Mureb

Gary K said:


> Just asking - can anybody correct the scale of the Robot kit to 1:6 in the subject line of this thread?
> 
> Gary


Yes, please, moderator. It's about time!


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## Fernando Mureb

Chrisisall said:


> I did that on my client's Masudaya, remember?:wave:


Of course, my friend. It was duly added to my reference notes since then. :thumbsup:


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## starseeker

I never plan anything ahead, preferring just to see what happens. I do intend to use one of these:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/281188617758?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

left over from my force field builds as the master on off switch in his belly. 

http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/j...IS Robot/4920_zps94758e41.jpg.html?sort=6&o=2

The power pack will just be a circuit killer if it's pulled out. No voice or remote control. Have to see the thing before I can tell what can be cut off and re-built. Treads for sure. Has to have 1st season legs.


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## starseeker

Gary K said:


> Ho-hum.... I've had Robot test shots sitting around here for months!
> 
> Gary


Oh, great Gary, all this silence from you means that you were just sitting around gloating over your Robot pulls? I thought it meant you were busy on a 1/350 K'Tinga or something. (You know there's not one person on any modelling forum anywhere on earth who doesn't want one!)
So enough fooling around with your Robot already - get back to work!
(I'd add a smiley there but I really [growley] hate them.)


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## Gary K

starseeker said:


> Oh, great Gary, all this silence from you means that you were just sitting around gloating over your Robot pulls? I thought it meant you were busy on a 1/350 K'Tinga or something. (You know there's not one person on any modelling forum anywhere on earth who doesn't want one!)
> So enough fooling around with your Robot already - get back to work!
> (I'd add a smiley there but I really [growley] hate them.)


B9 took up a huge chunk of my time for the past several years, and now the 11" Galileo shuttlecraft is doing the same. I probably shouldn't go to all the work, but I'm drawing plans accurate enough to build a full-scale shuttle, inside & out, and then I'll let the guys at the factory simplify it for a kit. Working on the dashboard this afternoon. I've GOT to take a vacation after these plans are done - and maybe even build a kit someday!

Gary


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## starseeker

Seriously, Gary, the work you've done on the Robot is absolutely mind-boggling. Can't wait to see the Galileo and hear more about the design discoveries you hinted at many, many months ago. I don't know about this vacation business, tho. That would be just to re-charge your energy levels before tackling a few more Irwin Allen subjects, and the K'Tinga, wouldn't it?
Others have said, and I have to chime in belatedly, thank you for all your efforts in ensuring this stunning kit is as stunning as it is. I can't wait to get my hands on it. Hope you have a great, productive, and relaxing New Year!


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## Chrisisall

Gary, we, your fans, salute you. Take a vacation AND build a kit.


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## Gary K

starseeker said:


> Seriously, Gary, the work you've done on the Robot is absolutely mind-boggling. Can't wait to see the Galileo and hear more about the design discoveries you hinted at many, many months ago. I don't know about this vacation business, tho. That would be just to re-charge your energy levels before tackling a few more Irwin Allen subjects, and the K'Tinga, wouldn't it?
> Others have said, and I have to chime in belatedly, thank you for all your efforts in ensuring this stunning kit is as stunning as it is. I can't wait to get my hands on it. Hope you have a great, productive, and relaxing New Year!


Thanks (and to Chrisisall, too) for the nice comments. Making corrections to test shots & 3D computer models isn't usually a big deal, but I need a short sabbatical from heavy-duty research & drafting to recharge my batteries and get various aspects of my life & house back in order. Due to various circumstances I'm pretty worn out at the moment. Btw, I'm not aware of any more Irwin Allen subjects or K'Tingas at the moment, but then again I'm not privy to all of Frank's & Jamie's plans.

Gary


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## kitkarma

Finish the shuttle first.


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## Gary K

kitkarma said:


> Finish the shuttle first.


Nag, nag, nag. 

I've got over 40 sheets of detail drawings of the exterior so far, and now I'm plugging away on the interior plans. Hopefully overkill on the plans will lead to fewer mistakes in the initial 3D computer model - esp. on a subject like the Galileo, which has a number of curves, angles, a,d oddball shapes.

Gary


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## Chrisisall

Umm... not to nag or anything... but, ummm... howz about a 1/24 Airwolf-? Like, not tomorrow, but in the next few months?

:lol:

LOL, like you're not busy ENOUGH.


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## OzyMandias

With regard to the finger lights undulating movement in the 1:1 replicas; it is done by having the rods pinned at the outer neck circumference to give them an axis to pivot on. The inward end sits on a rotating cam, which causes the undulating motion in the rods. Think of a batch of see-saws with kids on the outside ends and a couple of kids taking turns jumping on the insides. 

The reason it only got used in the very early episodes of the show were two fold.
It was a) finicky and prone to jamming and stopping, and b) when it was running the motor was so loud it was drowning out the dialogue being recorded on set. For the sake of not having to ADR the cast whenever they had scenes with the robot, it was kiboshed along with the rotating red and yellow antennas (clear acrylic in season 1). Here endeth the history lesson...

Like other B9 club members have stated, it wouldn't be impossible, but it would be devilishly hard to achieve at 1:6 scale. I've got a cam, I'd be happy to photograph if anybody wants to see it. It's sitting in the shed with my tread section, radar, and brain. Yes, that's as far as I've gotten in my 1:1 build.


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## RSN

OzyMandias said:


> With regard to the finger lights undulating movement in the 1:1 replicas; it is done by having the rods pinned at the outer neck circumference to give them an axis to pivot on. The inward end sits on a rotating cam, which causes the undulating motion in the rods. Think of a batch of see-saws with kids on the outside ends and a couple of kids taking turns jumping on the insides.
> 
> The reason it only got used in the very early episodes of the show were two fold.
> It was a) finicky and prone to jamming and stopping, and b) when it was running the motor was so loud it was drowning out the dialogue being recorded on set. For the sake of not having to ADR the cast whenever they had scenes with the robot, it was kiboshed along with the rotating red and yellow antennas (clear acrylic in season 1). Here endeth the history lesson...
> 
> Like other B9 club members have stated, it wouldn't be impossible, but it would be devilishly hard to achieve at 1:6 scale. I've got a cam, I'd be happy to photograph if anybody wants to see it. It's sitting in the shed with my tread section, radar, and brain. Yes, that's as far as I've gotten in my 1:1 build.


You can actually hear how loud the mechanism was in "And There Were Giants in the Earth" when Dr. Smith removes his power pack at the beginning of the episode as he is talking to the Robot.

I have all but the feet for my 1:1 Robot, everything else is crated up in my garage, so don't feel bad!! :thumbsup:


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## Opus Penguin

Heck, I would love to see a 1:1 scale model. No one brings them to conventions.


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## OzyMandias

Misery loves company, hey RSN:dude:

I'd love to see mine as more than just parts! I've done a 1:1 Dalek (long since sold). The B9 is on my bucket list. If I don't get a move on I may end up running out of time!


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## Fernando Mureb

Gary. It is time to remove your Power Pack for a while.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for the offer Ozy! If you don't mind, could you post a picture of the fingers mechanism? Thanks.


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## WOI

How's about putting my heart,my soul and my amount of love
into it?


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## Opus Penguin

Hang in there Gary! And if you need time off for a vacation, the mature members of this forum would understand. We just appreciate that you're willing to do the research for kits we wished we had when we were younger.


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## Fernando Mureb

WOI said:


> How's about putting my heart,my soul and my amount of love
> into it?


That's ok, but you will also need to put a couple of bucks.


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## Fernando Mureb

While the kits begin to reach their happy modelers, a question must be put here: are the parts molded in vinyl prepared to NOT chemicaly react with the plastic parts, like happened with the Chariot?


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## RSN

Fernando Mureb said:


> While the kits begin to reach their happy modelers, a question must be put here: are the parts molded in vinyl prepared to NOT chemicaly react with the plastic parts, like happened with the Chariot?


Different materials, the Chariot tracks were rubber, these are a more rigid vinyl.


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## Fernando Mureb

RSN said:


> Different materials, the Chariot tracks were rubber, these are a more rigid vinyl.


Good to hear. Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

I also thank to the moderator for having corrected my mistake on the title of this thread (1:16 to 1:6).


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## Moderbuilderzero

Here's an idea. Someone with creative molding skills build a cutaway version of the Robot, with the actor who portrayed him inside. Now THAT would be cool!

MBZ


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## Fernando Mureb

He should be an artist, a true sculptor.


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## kitkarma

Anyone have some Robot sound effects and or voice recordings they could share?


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## Lou Dalmaso

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Here's an idea. Someone with creative molding skills build a cutaway version of the Robot, with the actor who portrayed him inside. Now THAT would be cool!
> 
> MBZ


for a moment, I had this queasy vision of a cut-away robot with a cut-away of Bob May inside...Yeesh.

one of those invisible man kits with the visible organs and skeleton.:freak:


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## Fernando Mureb

LOL :lol: Ops! :freak:


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## rondenning

*	
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Auburn, Kentucky
Posts: 140
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
My 3 kits arrived this morning!!! THANK YOU MOEBIUS, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :wave: :tongue:
This was definitely worth the wait! Awesome looking kit !!!! I am ready to start building this one as a out of the box build, season 2 - 3, but this kit simply screams "lights",so I may install some basic lights. I have been hoping to see a nice light kit that also includes the neon mouth lights, that sync with a few good Robot phrases from the show, at an affordable price, as I can't afford most of the ones I have seen so far, especially when they don't include the mouth lighting and a few Robot phrases recorded. IMHO
I have been saving for months just for these 3 kits, and passed on quite a few nice kits so I could get 3 of these. (One of these will go to my younger brother, who is handicapped and can't build, as we grew up watching LIS as kids-and LIS was our favorite theme when playing with our GI Joe figures)
The ONLY thing I would have asked to include in this kit would be a second set of wrists and claws, so I could swap between the retracted and extended arms easily. I plan on useing magnets to hold the arms in place so that I can swap between the two, and I am already thinking springs on the claws so he can hold things (maybe a chess piece?).
I really liked that there were 2 seperate fusion core pieces for the J2, so you could build it the way you wanted. But, no big deal, I will figure out a way to swap the claws and wrist between the 2 sets of arms easily (probably magnets again). 
Whew...my head spins with multiple possibilities!!!!!!
Thank you again Moebius, this is so awesome!!!
Ron Denning
(Mini-me and Don are ready to start assembling the Robot, but Smith wants to make some kind of land vehicle out of him...)


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## Fernando Mureb

rondenning said:


> *
> I plan on useing *magnets to hold the arms in place* so that I can swap between the two, and I am already thinking *springs on the claws* so he can hold things (maybe a chess piece?).


Two great ideas!! Thanks.:thumbsup:


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## sg-99

One variant I have not seen mention is to convert B9 into P.O.P.S. from Mystery Island.:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Holy abomination, Batman! :freak:

Please, don't do that to our mechanical friend.


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## OzyMandias

I agree! Doing that to the B9 was a travesty of the worst sort. Immortalising it in plastic would be a waste of a good kit IMHO. 
You got plenty of alternatives from LiS anyways: season 1-3 colours, anti-matter world Robot, 'Golden boy', even the statue from Flight into the Future.


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Holy abomination, Batman! :freak:
> 
> Please, don't do that to our mechanical friend.


How about The Anti-Matter Man Robot?


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hmmmm...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Oshkosh619 presented an idea in the "b9 where are you??" thread, for those whom want to "_add an in-line switch (accessed perhaps from the programming bay) to activate/deactivate the lights_", in his words.

I consider this a good idea, depending on the room available inside the bay, so that a switch can be installed without defacing the design of the site. Instead, one of the vents could serve to this purpose if it is possible to make it removable.


----------



## jeffking45

*my plan.*

I plan to wire the power pack to act as a switch to complete the circuit to power him up and to deactivate him. The other switches are going to be located in the exhaust vents. I will create slits between the vents and have small switches located behind and by using a small thin flathead screwdriver to flip the switch.


----------



## Moderbuilderzero

How about using the drill/probe on his foot front panel as a hidden push on-off switch? Would be well hidden, and functional. Could that work?

MBZ :wave:


----------



## Opus Penguin

Depending on the size of the power pack (I don't have the kit yet so am not sure how big this part is), I may try a method of placing a magnet in it, and creating a magnetic switch to power on the unit. So basically when the power pack is put in place, it will power on. Not sure if this is feasible but will look into it. I used a similar method on Jupiter 2 I built for a friend. A magnet placed against the pod doors powered on the lights and engine.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Excellent! :thumbsup:


----------



## Opus Penguin

Well, I have all the sound files I plan to use for it. I also have the background noise of the internal workings of the Robot. Got this of the "Fantasy Worlds of Irwin Allen" CD. I hope to have this be looped when I turn the Robot on (hopefully through the power pack as mentioned), and the lights and motor sounds will come on. Then I would have a separate push button that will go through each of the Robot's dialogue I have.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*I hope that all those kits we are planning to build will be subject of detailed WIP threads here.* :thumbsup:


----------



## jeffking45

*b9 rotating solar crown*

Hey guys does anyone know where I can get a small slow rotating quite electric motor to power the solar crown in the b9's head? Let me know thanks


----------



## Fernando Mureb

jeffking45 said:


> Hey guys does anyone know where I can get a small slow rotating quite electric motor to power the solar crown in the b9's head? Let me know thanks


Teslabe, to the rescue! :thumbsup:


----------



## OzyMandias

The motor that turns the crown also controls the movement of the finger lights. 

Here's the cam I mentioned in a previous post in this thread:


----------



## OzyMandias

Chrisisall said:


> How about The Anti-Matter Man Robot?


Actually B9 club member Mike Davis (if memory serves) built a 1:1 scale Anti-Matter robot. It looked amazing! Black and white paint scheme and green neon.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

A question for the guys whom already received their kits: what is the internal diameter of the neck?


----------



## teslabe

jeffking45 said:


> Hey guys does anyone know where I can get a small slow rotating quite electric motor to power the solar crown in the b9's head? Let me know thanks


http://www.ebay.com/itm/6pcs-DC-3v-...926?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2ebcb2de
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-The-ne...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d8cec7dd

Here are two to consider, the one on the right is an 8mm stepper motor, that's the one I'll be using for my crown. It's very quiet but needs electronics to drive it. The motor on the left is a micro geared motor, just needs a power source, but will make noise.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe, to the rescue! :thumbsup:


Wow, I don't know C.P.R. but I've seen it on T.V......

I have started some work on animating the crown, here are some early pictures. Not sure when I'll have more pictures because next weekend I'll be working on lighting the "neon voice effect".


----------



## kitkarma

Anyone have the Robot voice recording cd's they could share, they are very rare and hard to get.


----------



## OzyMandias

Teslabe, that looks great! I wouldn't have imagined that you could have got so far so quickly.

A couple if questions, if I may:

Does the neck cup (the part directly under the brain) come as two pieces or did you modify it? On the prop builds, the cam sits inside that cup on the crown motor shaft and as it rotates, it moves the finger lights which are inserted through oval shaped holes in the side of the cup. Simple, at least at 1:1 scale, but very effective.

Do the 'eyes' on the front left and right corners of the brain have a vertical fin?

I'll put money on somebody (probably you mate ) getting the slight up and down movement into the bubble as well!


----------



## OzyMandias

I've got a large collection of sampled recordings that I've pulled from the DVDs. I think there might actually be some authorised audio sets available from the B9 club. 

I'm hoping to dig out the archive today. I just want to see what I've got and make sure nothing is going to be a problem as far as copyright goes. If it's all good I'm happy to share for the cost of media and postage.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

OzyMandias said:


> Teslabe, that looks great! I wouldn't have imagined that you could have got so far so quickly.
> 
> A couple if questions, if I may:
> 
> Does the neck cup (the part directly under the brain) come as two pieces or did you modify it? On the prop builds, the cam sits inside that cup on the crown motor shaft and as it rotates, it moves the finger lights which are inserted through oval shaped holes in the side of the cup. Simple, at least at 1:1 scale, but very effective.
> 
> Do the 'eyes' on the front left and right corners of the brain have a vertical fin?
> 
> I'll put money on somebody (probably you mate ) getting the slight up and down movement into the bubble as well!


In the first one of Teslabes' pictures it seems that he carved one of the cup's pieces as if he was intending to enlarge the holes to give them a oval shape. Why he would do that? 

Well, of course I could be dreaming of all this, as well.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Wow, I don't know C.P.R. but I've seen it on T.V......
> 
> I have started some work on animating the crown, here are some early pictures. Not sure when I'll have more pictures because next weekend I'll be working on *lighting the "neon voice effect"*.


Teslabe, do you think that it would be possible (and effective) the use of EL wire on the neon?


----------



## starseeker

One of the problems with building a model like this so quickly, unless this is deliberately a first build, is that any after-market parts aren't available yet. The triangular "brain", for instance, is clear plastic in the kit, it looks like. If there was a part of the Robot that needs to be etch, and would be vastly improved as etch, that's got to be it. 

Paul sure has been quiet. Bet his sleeves are mighty full of things.


----------



## OzyMandias

The eyes are actually ovals Fernando, and they have a fin running vertically across the narrow side.


I've also contacted the B9 club about sharing my files.


----------



## teslabe

OzyMandias said:


> Teslabe, that looks great! I wouldn't have imagined that you could have got so far so quickly.
> 
> A couple if questions, if I may:
> 
> Does the neck cup (the part directly under the brain) come as two pieces or did you modify it? On the prop builds, the cam sits inside that cup on the crown motor shaft and as it rotates, it moves the finger lights which are inserted through oval shaped holes in the side of the cup. Simple, at least at 1:1 scale, but very effective.
> 
> Do the 'eyes' on the front left and right corners of the brain have a vertical fin?
> 
> I'll put money on somebody (probably you mate ) getting the slight up and down movement into the bubble as well!


Thank you very much for kind words.... To answer your first question, yes, the brain cup comes in two pieces and I did modify it for the ball bearing I put in there to support the shaft for the crown. I also drilled a hole in the top cup for the wires to power the electronics for the brain's lighting, the bottom cup's inside diameter was also enlarged to handle the wires for the brain and the seven finger lights. I also drilled out the center of the connecting rod (part #53) so the crown's shaft could pass though on it's way down to the motor, just below the neck ring assembly. As far as articulating the finger lights, hummmm, maybe.....

Second question, yes, the "eyes" do have vertical fins. This is truly a mind blowing kit, another great job from Moebius and company.....:thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> The triangular "brain", for instance, is clear plastic in the kit, it looks like. If there was a part of the Robot that needs to be etch, and would be vastly improved as etch, that's got to be it.
> 
> *Paul sure has been quiet. Bet his sleeves are mighty full of things.*


Ditto! :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> In the first one of Teslabes' pictures it seems that he carved one of the cup's pieces as if he was intending to enlarge the holes to give them a oval shape. Why he would do that?
> 
> Well, of course I could be dreaming of all this, as well.


Fernando, if it can be done in such a small space, I'll be giving it a try.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

OzyMandias said:


> The eyes are actually ovals Fernando, and they have a fin running vertically across the narrow side.
> 
> 
> I've also contacted the B9 club about sharing my files.


Hi Ozy!

In my comment I was referring to the neck cup.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Fernando, if it can be done in such a small space, I'll be giving it a try.


Of course! I knew it! :wave:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe, do you think that it would be possible (and effective) the use of EL wire on the neon?


I don't like EL panels or "wire", too dim to be any good, short life span, especially if driven hard enough to make them brighter and you have a high voltage power supply, that in most cases, is not isolated, that risks not only shock but could blow out other circuits unless run from it's own power source.....:drunk:


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> One of the problems with building a model like this so quickly, unless this is deliberately a first build, is that any after-market parts aren't available yet. The triangular "brain", for instance, is clear plastic in the kit, it looks like. If there was a part of the Robot that needs to be etch, and would be vastly improved as etch, that's got to be it.
> 
> Paul sure has been quiet. Bet his sleeves are mighty full of things.


I hear you and that's why I'm taking my time and just building sub-assemblies
for now and there are a lot to build for this baby..... So Paul, where are you???


----------



## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> I don't like EL panels or "wire", too dim to be any good, short life span, especially if driven hard enough to make them brighter and you have a high voltage power supply, that in most cases, is not isolated, that risks not only shock but could blow out other circuits unless run from it's own power source.....:drunk:


Hmmm... it will be necessary to make a good mood for the LEDs light (supposing that that will be the source) to spread towards the neon, without hot spots.


----------



## OzyMandias

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Ozy!
> 
> In my comment I was referring to the neck cup.


Sorry Fernando, when I wrote that post I had _eyes_ on the _brain_
(Pun definitely intended!):jest:


----------



## OzyMandias

Teslabe, I was reading a thread covering the build of the JJprise over on the RPF. The builder in question was working with SMDs for some of the spotlights on the hull. I'm wondering if they might be a suitable component to press into use for the brain, given the limited space.


----------



## starseeker

I was just searching for a site I found years ago re: surface mount leds but it seems long lost. Anyway, smd are great and able to fit in very small spaces. They differ from regular leds in that they are brighter and have a much wider cone of illumination. If you control their brightness, they're definitely the way to go all over the Robots head. Because of their wide angle of illumination (up to 140 degree beam width, compared to as little as a 10 degree beam width for some regular leds), unless you buried them a little deeply in the hull of the E to limit that wide illumination, they're exactly the led I would not use for a spotlight, except in the saucer domes, where they're the only thing that will fit.
But in my search just now, I did find an excellent tutorial on how to wire the things:
http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/SMDs/Using SMD LEDs.html
It does take some practice. The tutorial doesn't mention how many you lose. I mean, they can just disappear. Even when they have wires on, they just disappear. Forever. 
I'm in the process right now of wiring up dozens of these little suckers for various projects that all at the adding lights stage. 
Edit: I remember seeing a photo of Teslabe's workbench with an extremely cool microscope in the background. I'm sure wishing I had one of those right now...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> But in my search just now, I did find an excellent tutorial on how to wire the things:
> http://www.nmra.org.au/Hints/SMDs/Using SMD LEDs.html
> It does take some practice. The tutorial doesn't mention how many you lose. *I mean, they can just disappear. Even when they have wires on, they just disappear. Forever. *


LOL... apparently, it is inherent to the nature of very small things trying to get hide from us. This is a physics law. :lol:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I was thinking to myself, that cam gear shown by OzyMandias perhaps can only be build in this scale with the use of a 3D printer. Which leads us to other question: is there a blueprint of the thing?


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hmmm... it will be necessary to make a good mood for the LEDs light (supposing that that will be the source) to spread towards the neon, without hot spots.


I first tried side illumination with 0603 on up to 3mm LEDs and didn't like the effect, so, I will back light it. I opened up the back plate (part #34) and will cover the opening with a very shear dark screen, then make a box to enclose the rear and use 4 3mm orange LEDs for the effect, that should work....


----------



## teslabe

OzyMandias said:


> Teslabe, I was reading a thread covering the build of the JJprise over on the RPF. The builder in question was working with SMDs for some of the spotlights on the hull. I'm wondering if they might be a suitable component to press into use for the brain, given the limited space.


I use SMD LEDs a lot, but for this build I need to use 3mm white LEDs with built-in blinking circuits to save room, I will have to file them down on both sides for them to fit, it's tight in there.... I'll post pictures when I get that far along.


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Edit: I remember seeing a photo of Teslabe's workbench with an extremely cool microscope in the background. I'm sure wishing I had one of those right now...


I'm lost without my microscope.....:freak:


----------



## teslabe

A little more work done today. I want to move slow in hopes that Paul will be offering some nice PE soon....


----------



## Paulbo

Well, lots of people looking for etch, so I will re-examine this. Should have some news in about a week.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Teslabe, which circuits are you planning to control with those push buttons? BTW, great idea, my friend. It had to be yours. :thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> I first tried side illumination with 0603 on up to 3mm LEDs and didn't like the effect, so, I will back light it. I opened up the back plate (part #34) and will cover the opening with a very shear dark screen, then make a box to enclose the rear and use 4 3mm orange LEDs for the effect, that should work....


Teslabe.

If your methode doesn't work (fingers crossed), you might consider trying this:

How to make a light diffuser


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> If your methode doesn't work (fingers crossed), you might consider trying this:


I just drilled a hole in a thick lucite rod & glued the led into it.


----------



## Seaview

Dang, guys, I'm just building my first one straight OOB and you're already talking photo-etch, voice boxes and lighting up the brain hyroglyphics! I'm way outta my league with you folks! Have fun, and I'll just putter on in my workshop with this beauty! :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> Dang, guys, I'm just building my first one straight OOB and you're already talking photo-etch, voice boxes and lighting up the brain hyroglyphics! I'm way outta my league with you folks! Have fun, and I'll just putter on in my workshop with this beauty! :thumbsup:


Hey friend, I made a talking & lit up one for a client, but my OWN Robot just stands there & looks cool. Nothing wrong with non-functioning pure replica beauty.:thumbsup:


----------



## kitkarma

Paulbo said:


> Well, lots of people looking for etch, so I will re-examine this. Should have some news in about a week.


I knew he couldn't sit this one out! Thanks Paul.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Chrisisall said:


> I just drilled a hole in a thick lucite rod & glued the led into it.


Hmmm.... I didn't remember. You mean you used the rod as it was an FO with side glow? 

I had thinking in put leds in both sides of the neon, directing their lights to cross section of each "neon tube", trying a FO effect, but I think it will not lit the entire neon equally.


In time: Chris, you might post a couple of images of your build here to inspire us in some aspects of this build, by analogy.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Seaview said:


> Dang, guys, I'm just building my first one straight OOB and you're already talking photo-etch, voice boxes and lighting up the brain hyroglyphics! I'm way outta my league with you folks! Have fun, and I'll just putter on in my workshop with this beauty! :thumbsup:





Chrisisall said:


> Hey friend, I made a talking & lit up one for a client, but my OWN Robot just stands there & looks cool. Nothing wrong with non-functioning pure replica beauty.:thumbsup:


Mine is gonna talk. I always wanted to talk to a robot, since I was a little kid.




Eh, eh, eh...


----------



## Opus Penguin

kitkarma said:


> I knew he couldn't sit this one out! Thanks Paul.


Yeah! Definitely need an etch for the brain piece.


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hmmm.... I didn't remember. You mean you used the rod as it was an FO with side glow?


I don't have an actual picture of the rod with the LED in it, but I experimented with placement in the chest for proper illumination of the area. It was all about avoiding creating a 'hot spot'.


----------



## Opus Penguin

How did you do the texturing?


----------



## Chrisisall

Opus Penguin said:


> How did you do the texturing?


Liquitex professional acrylic rattle can.:thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Yeah, let's see what the guys whom start this kit first will come up with as possible solutions to this problem.

BTW, your paint job has achieved that grainy look which has been talked about by folks here. What paint did you use?


----------



## Opus Penguin

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/Voodoo-Child-SFX-Unit-from-VoodooFX_p_2812.html

Voodoo FX lighting kit Now available.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Ops! Sorry, Opus shot faster.


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> BTW, your paint job has achieved that grainy look which has been talked about by folks here. What paint did you use?


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Chris! When I was writing my question, Opus Penguin post his own question first.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Opus Penguin said:


> http://www.culttvmanshop.com/Voodoo-Child-SFX-Unit-from-VoodooFX_p_2812.html
> 
> Voodoo FX lighting kit Now available.


Awesome kit, indeed. However, for the price (150.00) and due the not-so-good voice sincronization of the Starling-tech kit (80.00), I guess I will go with TSDS (80.00). Decisions, decisions...


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe, which circuits are you planning to control with those push buttons? BTW, great idea, my friend. It had to be yours. :thumbsup:


Mostly vocal phrases and some animation control, but they can easily be changed as time passes.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe.
> 
> If your methode doesn't work (fingers crossed), you might consider trying this:


The LED's light will bonce off reflective surfaces inside the box.


----------



## jeffking45

*head spinner*

Thanks​ teslabe for the hook up. When you get the circuit made for the motor can you do one for me ? Thanks


----------



## starseeker

teslabe said:


> I'm lost without my microscope.....:freak:


insert Pained Envy emoticon here


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Awesome kit, indeed. However, for the price (150.00) and due the not-so-good voice sincronization of the Starling-tech kit (80.00), I guess I will go with TSDS (80.00). Decisions, decisions...


At least you're in full control of the audio with Voodoo-FX's and TSDS's circuits,
you're not with Starling-Tech's.


----------



## fxshop

The Voodoochild circuit board has two outputs for motor control or servo action... Just wanted to let you know its already on the board... Randy


----------



## teslabe

fxshop said:


> The Voodoochild circuit board has two outputs for motor control or servo action... Just wanted to let you know its already on the board... Randy


IMHO, I think your board offers a lot of bang for the builder's buck, nice work....:thumbsup:


----------



## fxshop

I wanted it to be an all in one devise, its set up on a simple lanuage... Open source code, so you can wright your own programs and make any changes to the code on the fly. It all lives on the SD Card, I will have other program files for free download, so you get tired of the B9 swap it out for the Martin War Machine program or just make a new one from scratch... Sound player works off Wav files, just need to be all the same format, twin channel player with volume control... This board is allot smarter then me, thats for sure... Randy


----------



## ViperRecon

Very nice. So you can sync voice with LED blinking but my question is, can you synch the torso rotation sound with the motor control. Ideally, I'd want a general B9 SFX track playing all of the time when he's on, chest lights synced to a voice track, and short-travel torso rotation synced to that sound...

Mark in Okinawa


----------



## fxshop

Yes you can set the motor control with sound effects. Just rember the system works all off time, so you will need to know when the motor control starts & ends in the over all time line, this gives you a time to start the sound effect and stop the sound effect and how long to wait. Call me if you want more details 1-650-568-3400... Randy


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Randy, could I control the spin velocity and direction of a stepper motor directly from your board? Could it control two motors at the same time?


----------



## fxshop

Hi Fernando, A stepper motor is a different animal all together, DC motor or servo motor all day long. Yes it can control two motors at once or two motors doing different moves... Call me if you want more details about the circuit board.. Randy 1-650-568-3400


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> the not-so-good voice sincronization of the Starling-tech kit


I don't know what you mean here- I had no problem with the one I used...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Chrisisall said:


> I don't know what you mean here- I had no problem with the one I used...


Hi Chris!

From the videos I have seen, it appears to me that the lights are not turned on and off at every single syllable pronounced by the recorded Tufeld's voice.

Of course, I can be wrong, but I already saw a couple of other comments on that. What do you think?

If this is a false impression obtained from the videos, it would be good to make it clear, because the kit has a competitive price and it would be a missed opportunity for those who are on a budget. :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> From the videos I have seen, it appears to me that the lights are not turned on and off at every single syllable pronounced by the recorded Tufeld's voice.


When I first installed it, it seemed to have this problem, but then I contacted Starling and was told that's what the re-set button is for. When you turn the system off in mid- sentence, the next time it's activated it loses synchronization. Pressing the re-set button fixes that. Or, just don't turn him off _while_ he's speaking... After that I had no problems.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Chris!

So, one more good option on the table, folks.


----------



## Opus Penguin

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Chris!
> 
> So, one more good option on the table, folks.


One thing to be aware, another member on this board stated the Starling-tech version only has one audio channel so you can't have the mechanical background noise separate from the voice. As long as you are ok with this then it should be fine.


----------



## David3

hi guys
for those of us still making our minds up about which sound and light gizmo to install i thought you might find this free download at the B9 Robot Builders Club fun to play around with.
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/pub/parts/B9Talker/b9talker.html


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Nice tip! Thanks David! :thumbsup:


----------



## misterggg

*Bubble Trouble*

I ordered my B9 and it is on it's way, 

but I just gotta say, 

the line around the head bubble is not going away! 

any ideas to solve that glaring problem?


----------



## Opus Penguin

misterggg said:


> I ordered my B9 and it is on it's way,
> 
> but I just gotta say,
> 
> the line around the head bubble is not going away!
> 
> any ideas to solve that glaring problem?


Hmmmm ... the last line doesn't rhyme :tongue:

I am hoping someone is able to do an aftermarket piece of a full bubble with no seam but I know it would be quite an undertaking. At this point I plan to only spot glue the bubble on just in case. I don't know of any way to remove a clear seam.


----------



## B-9

I "glued" the bubble halves together with Future clear floor wax. I don't know how well it will hold over time but it seems to have adhered well. It could probably be pulled apart but I'm not messin' with it now!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Unfortunately, I ain't gonna see my robot until April, when a friend of mine who lives in Texas will come to Brazil with it. 

Several modelers here have already received their models but, except for Teslabe, no one, as far as I know, is posting his work *while in progress*. 

Please, let's share the making of our kits! :thumbsup:


----------



## Opus Penguin

Haven't received mine yet. I should get it today or tomorrow. I am looking into lighting but it may be a little while before I can start mine.


----------



## starseeker

Still a week or two from the Robot arriving in town, so I don't know what I'm going to do to it yet. But I am going to display it with a 1/6 Force Field. Just got the last of the wiring inboard. Each of the 6 bottom lights is controlled by an individual micro toggle. The three on one side of the upper unit are controlled by another toggle and the large round light on the other side is controlled by yet another. Lots of light leaks and it isn't close to being sealed up yet. Starting to think about a sound chip. The FF effect is on the Irwin Allen Fantasy World's bonus disk... Whatever I do to the Robot, it somehow has to seem the scary critter it was in the first few episodes. But how can you erase the memories of it dressed up in a dress and wig, or playing a guitar?? A challenge, to be sure.


----------



## Arkons

*Leg Fix*

I sprayed dull coat on the legs to get rid of the shine but after a day, it started to silver and you can scratch it off where the air is in the silvering parts. How do I repair this? Should I spray it with a gloss coat, let it dry and then respray the dull coat back on? Thanks for any info out there!


----------



## liskorea317

The legs and arms are vinyl, so an acrylic coating would be what it needed. Enamel and lacquers aren't compatible with vinyl unless primed first.


----------



## steve123

You never want to be the first guy to do something like painting the vinyl legs.
It's so flexible that I think most paints will eventually crack and peel.

I took one look at the legs on mine , tried to sand the seam..that didn't work so I am leaving them alone. I'd try just working the vinyl 'till the paint is gone, if that is possible.

Steve


----------



## Chrisisall

If you wash the vinyl thoroughly, acrylic paint should stick to it, but do a test first as sometimes acrylic stays tacky on particular types of vinyl. You can also use the old trick of adding a bit of liquid latex to the acrylic paint for flexibility (I have stuff over 30 years old painted that way that's held up just fine).


----------



## steve123

I soaked mine in purple power and then dish soap. It's a very shiny almost oily feeling vinyl. I decided not to mess with it.

I like the glycerine tip that is cool! Like adding a flex agent to the paint.

Steve


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## Arkons

*Leg Fix*

Wow! Thank you everybody! I only put a dull coat on it. I didn't paint the legs. The Robot's legs aren't as shiny as the vinyl legs are so I was trying to tone down the shine. I think I may try the acrylic coat on it and then put the dull coat on or just try to get it all off and just leave it. The model is already built so it'll be challenging to remove it all. It's hard to get the dull coat off where it actually adhered. I built two Robots and the first one didn't have any problem at all with the dull coat.


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## Richard Baker

How about dusting the vinyl legs with talcom powder to knock the shine down a bit?


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## RSN

Richard Baker said:


> How about dusting the vinyl legs with talcom powder to knock the shine down a bit?


"If I could walk that way, I wouldn't need the talcum powder!!"


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## Fernando Mureb

How about *steelwool* to softly wear the vinyl surface.


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## Arkons

*Leg Fix*

Hmm... I'm not sure what to try. I couldn't scrape off the dull coat that adhered with just my finger nail and when I used a hobby knife (even gently} it scratches up the surface of the legs. I bought a gloss coat spray today. I'm going to try to spray that on the legs, let it dry and then respray some dull coat on and see if that works. It was too cold today to try it but it's supposed to be much warmer tomorrow. Hopefully this works. Guess I should have left the legs alone but I can't stand the shine!  Plus it worked fine on the first Robot. Thank you for some very good suggestions!


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## Seaview

Personally, I'm going down to my LHS tomorrow with the legs in hand and see if I can find a nice Tamiya bottled acrylic paint to match the color of the vinyl, and then spray a dullcoat over that after it dries. Too shiny = "toylike" in appearance. besides, I'm building mine in a 'first season' paint job, and the arms and legs are obviously :flat' toned. When I do a "Second and third season" version, I plan on using "gunmetal" rattlecan spray for the vinyl parts after a coat of acrylic primer, since that's how it looks on my screen when watching the color episodes.
incidentally, I'd vote this kit as the Moebius "Kit Of The Year"! Your gonna love it, Fernando! :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Seaview said:


> incidentally, I'd vote this kit as the Moebius "Kit Of The Year"!:wave:


2013, right? Because 2014 will be the 1:35 chariot/pod couple year. 



Seaview said:


> Your gonna love it, Fernando! :wave:


You can bet! :tongue:

By the way, I suggest two magnetic switches for those who want to use the power pack to turn off the current of the light and sound systems.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331113641260?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191046496863?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


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## Fernando Mureb

A question for those whom are going to light the fingers. Which must be the gauge of brass tubes to replace the fingers, please? 

Thanks.


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## Fernando Mureb

A question for Teslabe. Which must be the gauge of brass rod, if I wanted to make the crown to rotate? Thanks.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> A question for those whom are going to light the fingers. Which must be the gauge of brass tubes to replace the fingers, please?
> 
> Thanks.


Fernando, I used 1.60mm for the long rod and 2.40mm for the shorter rod that 
has the 0603 LED at it's end. For anyone who would like to see them just look at post #2 in this thread.


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## Rallystone

Fernando Mureb said:


> A question for those whom are going to light the fingers. Which must be the gauge of brass tubes to replace the fingers, please?
> 
> Thanks.


Fernando, I found a sketch on one of the full-scale Robot builders websites that put the thinnest part of the 'finger' light at 0.25". Figure 1/6 scale of that is .042", then a 1mm (.039") diameter tube should work. I found some thin wall tubing on the HobbyLinc site that should allow for a .020" dia. fiber to run through. I plan to cut the ball end of the kit part and glue that to the tubing, after a little modding to make it look more like the kit parts with added width near the lit ends.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> A question for Teslabe. Which must be the gauge of brass rod, if I wanted to make the crown to rotate? Thanks.


I used 2mm because that was the ID of the bearings I used.


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## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Fernando, I used 1.60mm for the long rod and 2.40mm for the shorter rod that has the 0603 LED at it's end. For anyone who would like to see them just look at post #2 in this thread.





Rallystone said:


> Fernando, I found a sketch on one of the full-scale Robot builders websites that put the thinnest part of the 'finger' light at 0.25". Figure 1/6 scale of that is .042", then a 1mm (.039") diameter tube should work. I found some thin wall tubing on the HobbyLinc site that should allow for a .020" dia. fiber to run through. I plan to cut the ball end of the kit part and glue that to the tubing, after a little modding to make it look more like the kit parts with added width near the lit ends.





teslabe said:


> I used 2mm because that was the ID of the bearings I used.


Thank you gentlemen! Precious data for all of us.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## starseeker

I was just collecting screen captures and I couldn't resist these. Oh, the pain, the pain...


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## Chrisisall

That never did compute.


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## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> I was just collecting screen captures and I couldn't resist these. Oh, the pain, the pain...


I never understood how they could shoot episodes like this! After all, what did they do not to die of laughing on the set. Even now, I hardly can hold my laughs. :lol:


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## Zombie_61

starseeker said:


> I was just collecting screen captures and I couldn't resist these. Oh, the pain, the pain...


Yeah, but you know _someone_, _somewhere_, will build theirs just like this. :drunk:


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## David3

starseeker said:


> I was just collecting screen captures and I couldn't resist these. Oh, the pain, the pain...


despite the dress, its the shoes that define the man


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## kitkarma

Mine is getting the guitar treatment !


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## David3

kitkarma said:


> Mine is getting the guitar treatment !


that's what i was thinking too
now.. where to get a 1/6 guitar ?!


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## kitkarma

David3 said:


> that's what i was thinking too
> now.. where to get a 1/6 guitar ?!


It just so happens I have a 1/6th scale Gibson 6 string Acoustic guitar just waiting for our mechanical friend.


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## DCH10664

I'm looking forward to seeing someone do a documented build of Ol' Bubble Head !! And seeing some of these ideas put to use.


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## Opus Penguin

teslabe said:


> A little more work done today. I want to move slow in hopes that Paul will be offering some nice PE soon....


Hey Teslab! What did you use to create the power pack plugs? Did you custom make these, or did you use something specific? I was planning to do something similar but was going to get a small brass rod and custom make a plug inside the robot and use a stiff wire that fit in it to attach to the power plug to make the connection.


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## teslabe

Opus Penguin said:


> Hey Teslab! What did you use to create the power pack plugs? Did you custom make these, or did you use something specific? I was planning to do something similar but was going to get a small brass rod and custom make a plug inside the robot and use a stiff wire that fit in it to attach to the power plug to make the connection.


First, I must declare a screw-up on my power pack.....:drunk: I was going to fill the the inside with clear epoxy to hold the clear face plate and under estimated the amount needed and came up short. If I tried to fix it I think I would only have made it worse, so I'll live with it as it is..... Now, back to your question, I used some pins from an old "wire-wrap" IC socket and soldered them to copper tape on the back to complete the circuit. The female ones in the torso are from a connector I never used.


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## teslabe

Got some other work done this weekend like boxing in the mouth for back lighting. Also got the switches for the chest plate wired, the red, green and yellow SMD LEDs wired and the push bottons drilled out for the LEDs. I'm moving slow till I know what or if Paul offers a PE kit. I also painted the torso
today.


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## jimkirk

I might give mine the scarecrow treatment like from Visit To A Hostile Planet.


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## Fernando Mureb

My friend, thank you so much for sharing your w.i.p. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Didn't you think about the use of a magnetic switch on the power pack?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> My friend, thank you so much for sharing your w.i.p. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> Didn't you think about the use of a magnetic switch on the power pack?


Hi Fernando,
I never thought about using a reed switch, not a big fan.... My power pack 
will not control power, it will change states on the microcontroller and that will make the robot look as if it's power was removed and utter the famous
uhhhhhhh.


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## Fernando Mureb

Great! And it's gonna bend the body forth, with arms extended, right? :tongue:

Why ain't you a big fan of reed switch? Great probability of failures?


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi folks!

Look what ClubTepes, djnick66 and I were discussing about in this thread.



ClubTepes said:


> If you do what I did, the smallest ones I found were still too large.
> 
> I had to grind them to a smaller diameter.
> 
> What I did was buy screws with longer shafts so that I could load them into my dremel.
> 
> Then I set my calipers for .06".
> I ground the screws down on some medium grit hobby sanding film.
> Once I could pass the screw through the .06" opening, I rounded off the head a little bit (I started with flathead screws).
> 
> Then I had to drill the holes out on the kit.
> One diameter for the shaft, and another to slightly countersink the head to the proper thickness.
> 
> So you can see why I say some PE ones would be A LOT easier.





djnick66 said:


> Just drill the screws out, use some plastic rod as a peg. Score a slot in the cut end for the screw part and just sink it as much as you need. You can adjust the depth. I think Aber also makes photo etch screw heads in assorted sizes already.





Fernando Mureb said:


> What do you guys think about this? http://www.scalehardware.com/


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## Fernando Mureb

jimkirk said:


> I might give mine the scarecrow treatment like from Visit To A Hostile Planet.


If we opened a poll to find out the most ridiculous / hilarious suit that they dressed the robot, it would be extremely difficult to choose just.... ten.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Why ain't you a big fan of reed switch? Great probability of failures?


There are so many other and better ways to switch a circuit IMHO, but that's just me.....


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe!

I have read in other threads that the guys whom are lighting the fingers are using FO. Considering that you are going to make the crown to rotate AND also lighting the fingers with SMD LEDs, how are you planning to fit the magwires and axle inside the neck?

Thanks.



teslabe said:


> I used 2mm because that was the ID of the bearings I used.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe!
> 
> I have read in other threads that the guys whom are lighting the fingers are using FO. Considering that you are going to make the crown to rotate AND also lighting the fingers with SMD LEDs, how are you planning to fit the magwires and axle inside the neck?
> 
> Thanks.


There's a lot of room inside the neck and the 34AWG Mag-wire is much smaller and easier to route than FO. To protect the wires from the finger lights and the wire from the crown, I drilled out the plastic Connecting
Shaft (part #53) to pass the rod through so there's no rotating shaft to 
damage the wires.


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## jeffking45

*shaft*

Hey how long are the two shafts and what size are they?


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## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> There's a lot of room inside the neck and the 34AWG Mag-wire is much smaller and easier to route than FO. To protect the wires from the finger lights and the wire from the crown, I drilled out the plastic Connecting
> Shaft (part #53) to pass the rod through so there's no rotating shaft to
> damage the wires.


Thanks Teslabe.


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## kitkarma

Working on the tread sections today. Instead of sanding the seams on the tread section I have opted to re-skin the surfaces using .10 ml sheet, this should return the surfaces to a smooth original state. Also adding the charging station to the right rear tread section as it appears on the full size replicas. This detail did not appear on the hero or stunt costumes used in the series. I find that it does give an idea of realism though and I'll include it on my kit.


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## Fernando Mureb

Till now, I had read a lot of complaints about boring and slow putty/sand/primer process to get rid from the middle seam line of the tread sections.

Now, a brilliant mind comes up with a simple and quick solution.

Nothing like a day after another. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## kitkarma

Fernando Mureb said:


> Till now, I had read a lot of complaints about boring and slow putty/sand/primer process to get rid from the middle seam line of the tread sections.
> 
> Now, a brilliant mind comes up with a simple and quick solution.
> 
> Nothing like a day after another. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


I learned from the best, my Uncle Herb/Ductapeforever, Rest In Peace.


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## Moderbuilderzero

kitkarma said:


> I learned from the best, my Uncle Herb/Ductapeforever, Rest In Peace.


Awwwwwww, I remember Duct. Didn't know about that though. Duct was great. Talked many times.

Now I'm sad. 

MBZ


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## Chrisisall

kitkarma said:


> I learned from the best, my Uncle Herb/Ductapeforever, Rest In Peace.


No way.


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## starseeker

The charging station on the foot just exists on the replicas, not on the Fox Robot. The Fox Robot did have a power plug or something on the foot opposite to his soil tester in some scenes, tho'. As far as I can tell, it was only there in early episodes. Perhaps he had different feet for different mobility requirements? 

Ducttape was a wonderful member here, a real joy to read and watch. I occasionally have need to search for old threads for something vaguely remembered, and half the names I see are of people mostly red-label banned and sometimes names like Duct's who have just vanished. So many great contributors, inspirations, and allies in the battle against uncooperative plastic. He not only will be greatly missed, he already has been greatly missed. Sincere condolences.


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## kitkarma

starseeker said:


> The charging station on the foot just exists on the replicas, not on the Fox Robot. The Fox Robot did have a power plug or something on the foot opposite to his soil tester in some scenes, tho'. As far as I can tell, it was only there in early episodes. Perhaps he had different feet for different mobility requirements?
> 
> Ducttape was a wonderful member here, a real joy to read and watch. I occasionally have need to search for old threads for something vaguely remembered, and half the names I see are of people mostly red-label banned and sometimes names like Duct's who have just vanished. So many great contributors, inspirations, and allies in the battle against uncooperative plastic. He not only will be greatly missed, he already has been greatly missed. Sincere condolences.


I am amazed at the sentiments expressed here about my late Uncle. When he was alive he spoke so highly of the members here, the value of the ideas put forth here always impressed him. I learned so many things from his skill and wisdom. I hesitated joining when he was banned. He said the over moderator was a soulless jackass. I have no opinion either way, I don't know the man. I put my feelings aside and became a member here, and I am so glad I did.


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## Fernando Mureb

Be welcome with your invaluable contributions.:thumbsup:


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## Seaview

kitkarma said:


> I learned from the best, my Uncle Herb/Ductapeforever, Rest In Peace.


 
 I'm so sorry to read this; your uncle was one of the finest contributors this board ever had. I printed up the Jupiter 2 reference manual he compiled and couldn't have built mine as accuratly as I did without it and his wonderful notes.
May he rest in everlasting Peace.


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