# g jet questions any takers?



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

mornin fellas i,ve been playin with the idea of buying a gjet,and want to know a lil more before i pull the trigger.first off i dig my old tjets mostly the tuff ones, they seem much quicker than most of my others.i,m slowly selling my magnet cars/afx type.i do have my own routed track with adjustable power, so voltage will be correct. and at this time i use a 60 ohm parma. will i have to get a differnt controler? if you own a gjet i,d love to hear your thoughts. go or no go its all the same. thanx for reading this joe g also i have read some stuff about em almost all good!


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## LeeRoy98 (Jul 8, 2005)

I have 3 and love them. My absolute favorite car for racing. And you can buy one off the shelf and immediately be competitive. I use a 60 ohm Parma most of the time, occasionally a 45 ohm also.

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

A G-Jet is pretty much a Super G+ with the traction magnets taken out and brass weights put in. Some folks have tinkered with making a Tyco-jet to get an idea if they would like those kind of cars. JW's Speed Parts makes brass weight for Tyco chassis, if you'd like to try this.

I'm only mentioning this option because a G-Jet sells for about $40-50. Would kinda suck if you bought one and didn't like it.


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## Montoya1 (May 14, 2004)

A lot of the parts and weights have changed or been added to, so how competative one would be if that continued or you do not have all the options covered is open to debate. Depends who you race with and where.

I love to run mine, but we only do that for grins, and several other chassis with brass weights are quicker if lap time is the end game.


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## smokinHOs (May 30, 2006)

*Gjets...*

Well.. let's see... 

$55 ready to run can be a little scary, but hoenstly they are worth it. Quiet, not too fast, but fast but fast enough. You can throw and catch them in the corners, kinda like a fray tjet without the hassle of trying to build one.

Truthfully, I would argue that the Gjet rule set and racing is the closest you can get to the fairest and least confusing rules.

But back to the Gjets. They ARE great and a blast. If you like magnet cars but like to see them, it is a pefect blend of both tjets and magnet cars.

As for the other makers or other "brass weight" cars, I don't know, but the concept is more than solid and will quickly jump to the top of your "cars to race".

As for controller, I don't know for sure. We use Professor Motor electronic controllers, and run everything with them..

-Marc and Marcus


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## BrentCorvette (Jun 11, 2008)

$55 is a good price for a real racing slot car like a G-Jet.
I have raced with SWIMSRA and they are fun to race compared to some of the other cars i've raced.
When running a G-Jet at 12 volts you should use a 15-35 ohm Parma controller.


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## smalltime (Jun 3, 2006)

The entire "brass jet" thing is a blast. The G-Jets and the ThunderStorms run just fine together. We have been running them against eachother for almost two years in a wednesday night league.
The Gs are a little easier to drive, and the Thunderstorms are quicker. I have both and love them.
The Slottech offering is the fastest of the three, but it has WAY more downforce than the other two. For this reason, we decided to not allow that chassis to run against the others.
I would try both before you decide.


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## steel sledge (Nov 9, 2009)

Wow, $55 for an RTR car? I need to switch hobbies! I just paid $400 for my newest r/c HOPING that I would like it enough to keep it!


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

Well worth the expense... the guys that go with Parmas to race them in my experience go with either the 35 or 45 ohm controller, I'm sure one or the other will work fine for you.

I personally use either a DR-50 or an M-Magic for mine, but no need for such an expense as you start.

Lot's of expertise on the G-Jet out here, keep asking questions!


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

> i dig my old tjets mostly the tuff ones


The GJet is a premium quality race car but it is not really comparable a TJet/Tuffy experience . Even with the traction magnets removed, the motor magnets provide sufficient magnetic downforce to still provide more of a magnet car feel than what you may be expecting. I think they are similar in behavior, but smoother and more refined, as the first generation inline magnet cars like the Aurora G-Plus and Tyco Curvehugger era cars, especially if you run them all at 12V. It's still a magnet car.

The benefit of the GJet over the Thunderstorm is that you can mount a Tomy/Aurora/AutoWorld hard body on a GJet chassis.

If you are racing with a group that runs a GJet class then getting one is a no brainer. If you are looking to get something that you can use as a general purpose econo racer chassis to put under a number of your favorite A/FX sized hard bodies, and you want more stick than you get with a A/FX magnatraction or AWXT, but far less than a Tomy SRT or Tomy Super G+, another option is putting polymer magnets in your magnatraction style cars. Not nearly as refined as a GJet, but affordable enough to equip a field of four cars for IROC racing on your home track, for around the same price as one GJet.

If you are like me you'd get one just to sample the unique experience of a unique type of HO slot car. Worst case, you sell it if you don't find it to your liking.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

afxtoo i think you hit it out of the park with if i dont like it sell it.as part of the hobby i like the lexan painting and mounting part too.thanx boyz for chippin in your thoughts.this could be fun or just another car that sits on the shelf.


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

joegri said:


> afxtoo i think you hit it out of the park with if i dont like it sell it.as part of the hobby i like the lexan painting and mounting part too.thanx boyz for chippin in your thoughts.this could be fun or just another car that sits on the shelf.


Hey Joe, if you buy one of these, I guarantee it's not going to be sitting onthe shelf too much...


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

ok started the shopping process seems that there are no special deals on the gjet and price uniformity is the rule.cuz i,m on the eastcoast i figured i,d buy closest to me (rhode island)but i,m seeing that alot of the bigger hobby supply joints dont carry the g . i would like to support the guys i buy from the most jag hobbies/ buds ho, i suspect i,ll have to poud through pages of google to find my supplier who did you buy from?


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

joegri, great thread, my favorite HO slot car. To be more accurate, the concept of "low voltage brass weighted inlines". I like the reference by
Smalltime of "brass-jets"! A great, readily available snap together chassis design that offers racing parity. Body choices are detailed & scale appearing
for either hard plastic or Lexan. The difference between the G-Jet & the other
brass jet choices are the higher ohm arms @ low voltage. I would definitely
give Gary & the BSRT guys a :thumbsup::thumbsup: for an HO car that looks & handles like 1/32nd scale. Most HO inlines have 6 ohm armatures to be run
@ 18 volts. Before & after T-jets, trains & larger scale slot cars are based 
@ lower voltages. The complex design of the T-Jet chassis to accommodate the bodies created the need to run higher volts for an HO standard. The 
lower voltage/higher ohm arm creates a very nice handling inline. It's a fun
drive because the control is different & forgiving. Get deep in the corner, 
come off the rear rails just enough to straighten the nose.
Occasionally if the butt comes out too far you can save a deslot with a full
360. I would like to see 9 ohm arms become available for other chassis designs. Unfortunately, our club guys aren't big on the idea. A good point by
Montoya are the parts changes. Also, the price for parts have risen and a rolling chassis has gone to $60. Some of the club members don't want to
go this route because they don't want to invest in a parts queen. 
Some ways to lower costs are options of other weight designs & arm sources
for a club jet car. A 45 ohm controller works well, my layout is set up with
adjustable Prof. Motor units. I agree w/Marty, if you try one, you will like it.


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

Joe, just contact Scale Auto directly, they'll hook you up with a good one.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

thanx . i,m going to scale auto next to place an order!


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

They also have the Parmas if you need a flavor of those as well. 

And honestly, the only thing you will need to swap out for a LONG time is the pickup shoes. I have had cars that I have run for over 2 years with the same tires and end bell and they have just gotten better. Some folks out there have IROC fleet cars with 10,000+ laps on them and they haven't done a thing but put in new shoes....

When you G-Jet comes in, let us know what you think!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

ok placed an order this a.m. got an email back saying that my order cannot be filed till next wed/ out of stock.so i pitched a tent at the mailbox!i,ve got a few lexans that will work nicely.now all i have to do is sell a few tjets to pay for g.so hurry up and wait. i can do this . and many thanx for helping me dedcide!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

alright !! recieved my newG today. and well, i just dont know what to think of it? first let me say it,s fast as hell it corners amazing and its put together veeery nice! a nice touch on the chassis it says MADE IN USA. i poked and prodded at it . that doesnt look like a t jet.its smooth and responcive.when i inspected it i noticed it had been test driven!!very cool. somebody auctualy drove it to see if it worked.now i gotta find out how to take it apart! i,m not used to the speed. i have tjets.also a different controller is in the future.kinda squirrley witha parma 60.but i do like it.


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

I know that internal Scale Auto policy was that EVERY g-jet that went out the door was given a test drive by none other that Gary Beedle himself. If it did not measure up to his standards, it did not go out the door. I assume the policy is still in effect...


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Joe, congratulations! You just purchased probably the best designed
HO slot car for club, home or entry level racing. Don't be too quick to rip it apart. It was assembled & tested @ BSRT. Don't forget they run @ 12 volts
w/a 9 ohm arm. Try a 45 ohm controller & enjoy!! :thumbsup:


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## dnybsbl (Jan 20, 2010)

congrats on the new car:thumbsup:
is an awesome car and great racing.....


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

thanx for all the info and prodding me on to get 1 of these babys! i,v turned about 100 laps with it and i,m happy with it.without a body on it she,s hard to follow but with a clip-on body it seems to be easier to follow,especially throurh th esses! i have a coupla of bsrt lexans that will cover the chassis, just gotta decied which 1 and what color to paint! also the thought of racing it has crossed my mind,but i dont know of any clubs that are close enough . seems here in rhode island there isnt alot of ho interest.fact is i,m the only person i know that has a track.my fishin buddies are convinced i lost my mind. 70 bucks for a slot car?but i quickly remind them 600$ for a van stahl fishin reel. is over the top too!besides i can catch big strippers on a penn 704 just as easy as they can with an over engeneered van stahl!


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

LDThomas said:


> I know that internal Scale Auto policy was that EVERY g-jet that went out the door was given a test drive by none other that Gary Beedle himself. If it did not measure up to his standards, it did not go out the door. I assume the policy is still in effect...


Yep, last time I was over at Scale, Gary had a big line up of them he was testing... If they don't meet his expectations, they get stripped down and go back to the drawing board.


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Joe, when you eventually disassemble the G-Jet, be careful of the front brass screw securing the front weights. It is a #0-80 brass countersunk screw, unfortunately the blade slot can strip quite easily. 
I've p/u 3 used G-jets @ HO shows for reasonable prices & all have had that problem.  If anyone has advice on drilling out or replacing the damaged screw, please post. Other than that problem, the low voltage weighted inline class is a great idea!


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