# About to build



## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

I’m recently retired and am about to build a small (30”x66”) 2 lane track. My last build was over twenty years ago (4’x8’ 4 lane), so I’m not a complete newbie. However, I can use some advice and guidance with this build.
I have designed my course and am collecting the necessary AFX track pieces. Here’s a snapshot of my raceway:
- 17’ flat course
- 2 short straightaways (39”/42”) 
- 6”/9”/12” turns and esses
- one 3” hairpin turn
My finished raceway must be portable and easy to store under a futon. For this, I will use folding legs and small RC wheels to roll it in and out.
I do have some questions that are rattling around in my head. For these, I’m asking for assistance.
- Power and controller. Two AFX Tri Power Packs or other power source? I’m trying to keep things simple and compact, but I would like controller with brake. Recommendations
- Power Taps. All electrical will come from below the table and all individual track pieces will be soldered. Is a power tap still recommended? If so, where? 
-Track attachment. My table will portable and the track must be secured well enough to handle the moves with minimal repair. I was thinking of nailing and glueing? This is probably overkill, but I would like everything to stay in place while moving out/under, room2room, or inside/outside. Your thoughts?
Thank you all for your time and sharing your knowledge/experience with me.


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

You can add pictures as attachments for now by using the go advanced button below. Then scroll down to attachments. After your fifth post you can directly link to other photo web hosting sites you may be using.

Based on my experience with model railroading at 17' you shouldnt need a second tap, but having 2 wouldnt hurt. Just make them equidistance from each other.

If you are not rolling on carpet you whould be okay with the small RC wheels. Just make sure you have enough clearence for the undertable wiring and supports.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks MFR. Our home is tiled, so the my wheel idea should work. Now about the tap. Putting a tap at an equal distance will put it on a curve. From what research I’ve done, it is recommended that taps should be put on straights. Unfortunately, my two straightaways are connected by one turn. Is placing a tap on a curve problematic?


----------



## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Although most power taps are installed on straights, probably for an easier install, I don't think a curve PT would be an issue.
For Tomy type track, a PT every 12 to 15 track joints would be suggested. Enjoy your track build.


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks for your imput on "taps" DD. I will have 36 joints and look at putting one at 18 or two at 12 and 24.


----------



## twolff (May 11, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> - Power Taps. All electrical will come from below the table and all individual track pieces will be soldered. Is a power tap still recommended? If so, where?
> -Track attachment. My table will portable and the track must be secured well enough to handle the moves with minimal repair. I was thinking of nailing and glueing? This is probably overkill, but I would like everything to stay in place while moving out/under, room2room, or inside/outside. Your thoughts?
> Thank you all for your time and sharing your knowledge/experience with me.


If you are soldering the track sections together, you won't need additional power taps on a layout this size. They are easy to add later if you find they are. Don't break out the soldering iron until you have everything buttoned down and tested.

A tri-power pack per lane would be inexpensive and easy to implement.

I used small flat head screws to secure track sections to the table top. I had to counter sink the nail holes in the track sections. More work, but MUCH easier to make changes and tune the fit between the sections once the sections are all down. Set it all up loose on the table and run it. Getting a smooth transition between sections is not necessarily with the sections tightly fitted next to one another. I also swapped out several sections of track in building my 4x8 4 lane. Some for rail issues, warped surface, poor fit with adjacent sections etc. I would not glue the track at all.

I also wired my track for brakes. I found it a waste of time and expense. I run T-Jets to Tyco 440-X2/Lifelike and everything in between and none of them seem to benefit having brakes with my layout and driving style.

Controllers depend on what cars you are going to run. I wish I'd known about these before I purchased multiple Parma controllers. They should allow running darn near anything on small tracks:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pc-1974-A...0:g:uFcAAOSwM0FXH42o:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Today I recieved the remainder of the track pieces I need to complete my course. Of course I dropped everything else I was doing and set it up my course on the floor and gave it a go. I'm a drifting T-Jet guy, so once I add borders, it'll be dialed in. 

Thanks Twolff for your input. I am adding a second tri-power and soldering every joint. Also, at least one tap will be added for the experience/knowledge of performing that task. I was looking at purchasing Parma controllers, but I'll do research on the contollers you recommend.


----------



## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Tomy/AFX track makes good connections. If your track sections are not corroded you should not have to solder the joints and jumpers would not be necessary unless you expect to run cars with rewound armatures. Before you go crazy with solder and jumpers you could do a simple test. Disconnect the last section before the one where power comes in. Put a car with the rear wheels off of the track on the last section and punch the controller for that lane. Measure the voltage across the rails for the power strip and the last section. If the voltage drop is less than a few tenths you would be good to go. Of course an extra set of jumpers never hurts. It would also not hurt to use contact cleaner or Rail-Zip on the joints when you assemble the track.
You could stick down a few track sections with silicone caulk. If you need to work on the track you would be able to pry the sections loose. Instead of wheels you could use glides from a hardware store.


----------



## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

"Parma", are GREAT Controls...
But, The Company has all but Disappeared in the past several years..

Using "T-Jets" 90 Ohms But; 120 Ohms is best for Optimum-Performance.

AFX & some others (Pancake-Style Motors).. 
About 65-ish Ohm Rated...

I "Think", 45 Ohm, for TOMY & other "In-Line Motors". 
Will do Da' Trick ;-)

Bubba (The Senile-1) 123


----------



## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Parma was moribund for over a year and new Parma Economy controllers were hard to come by, however they are once again in production. New Economy controllers are available from from Parma and from many of the online dealers like Lucky Bob's, Professor Motor and Scale Auto. Professor Motor has his own brand of resistor controllers and the DS controllers sold by Electric Dreams would be another choice for that sort of controller


----------



## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I built a 5X10 Tomy track that pretty much covers the entire area, (JayBird Speedway) on here

I used multiple taps, there is no reason you cant put a tap on a curve, Its really the same process as a straight section it just may be a little more critical on where the wires line up to go through the table. 

I took great pains to have all the alignment issues both rail and track height as I wanted this track to run like a routed track, I soldered all the joints after setting the rail height where I wanted it, You can do this by building a hard wood block, mine was 1-1/2" square with a slot milled into it the depth of the rail height I wanted. The process then is to use the block to lower high rails and use pliers to carefully pull up the low rails, then set them with the block. 

I also cut off the lock of all the track tabs as they hardly ever were flat and I was using small flat head fillips screws to hold the sections any way. Shim the track heights with newspaper on the ends to get that perfect match between each piece, this is a trial and error thing, shim, tighten screw and see where your at, you will get good at it about near the end. Do not overly tighten the screws, just counter sink the hole enough for the head to be flush.

As for soldering the rails, I did it and then filed every joint down, I would not do it again, just a ton of work.

You can get a very smooth track from Tomy track, I feel it is better than Auto world, If I was going to change anything on your layout it would be the hairpin, I do not like them too many issues with the tight radius catching the shoes on several style cars and then you need to push them to get them going, plus very easy to come out of the slot there. I would run your layout for several weeks to make sure its what you like.

I used Professor Motor electronic controllers, a little on the expensive side, but if you take care of them they will last and can be tuned to run a wide variety of stock or slightly modded armatures

Power Supply, Mastech, check ebay, 10 amps-30 volts adjustable is great for a home track, also Laptop computer power supplies are great for a single lane 5 amps or so and 20-24 volts and super clean DC power, cheap at Goodwill stores $2 or so.

Boosted


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

@[email protected] is your track modeled after a folded Monaco?

Is the hairpin track piece designed to compensate for potential binding with the brand's slot car tabs or do you change over to pins to allow better drifting?

:lurk5:


----------



## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

@Milton Fox Racing. My course design wasn’t inspired by any one design. Instead, there were aspects of a few courses that inspired my design keeping the following perimeters in mind. 
My raceway needed to be compact (33” x 70” max.) and easily stored under a futon when family/friends pay us an extended visit. I desire a flat curvy course to satisfy my drifting disorder. And, I wanted a true hairpin. 
When I sat down with paper and pencil, my course was basically as you see it, except I did have a straightaway going into/out of the hairpin. I then decided to get rid of that straight and add another turn. I liked that. I gave me a little longer racing length without increasing the size of my table top. My third revision moved the hairpin down around the first turn. Unfortunately, that really pushed the length of my table top to a point of becoming a storing issue, so I decided against it.
Thanks again for your insight. I value all the comments and ideas from you and everyone else who have reached out. I’m heading to Santa Barbara next week to biuld the table top with my brother. I’ll be sure to keep you all posted with my progress.


----------

