# An Unbelieveably Harmless Paint?



## shogun (May 8, 2010)

Hey Guys,

I just want to do some tiny touch up on my cars, like paint helmets, wheels, and such. However, I seem to be allergic to paint... I used to love painting as a kid, and want to now, but I get a very strange nervous system reaction at the smallest sniffs of the stuff. My hands get shakey for days and my head feels numb. Bizarre, I know.

Anyway, are there any really safe paints available? I don't mind sacrificing some quality, as it's just for little stuff. Web searches for this yeilded me Testers and Nelson, but who knows.

BTW, I tried painting outdoors with a breeze, but that didn't help. I don't have a lot to do, so I can't see building a paint booth.

Any thoughts? Thanks


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Have you tried waterbase acrylics? RM


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## torredcuda (Feb 1, 2004)

Respirator.Get a charcaol filter type at any auto supply store-no more breathing any fumes.


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## shogun (May 8, 2010)

Well, the last paint was Tamiya (sp?) acrylic... I thought that would be okay, but it wasn't. Good paint, though.

Yep, I've got a respirator, and it probably would work alright for this. Funny thing though... it won't prevent a bad reaction if I use spray paints. I believe I absorb the solvents through my eyeballs and skin.

I realize this whole thing sounds odd to most people (though not folks in the autobody business - they call it sensitized). But before I give up completely on paints... and I'm just about there... I figured you guys know more than most, so I'm putting out there.

I'm hoping theres something so safe you could practically drink it... I'd expect it not to work so well, but that's okay - better than nothing.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Was the Tamiya _waterbase_ though, like Hilltop asked? I believe he is wondering if you've tried waterbase paints yet. They generally do not have the "hot" ingredients most model/hobby paints have. They wash up with soap and water when wet, but dry permanent (relatively but need clearcoat to last). Waterbase paints are more likely found at a craft store like Michaels.


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Howdy:
Another option you have is ask some of your slot brethern to do the painting for you. I personally volunteer to paint for you so you don't have to deal with Physical problems of painting. Just offerin man We been losing a few brothers here and there and we gotta keep each other alive or our collections will be worthless.
Clyde-0-Mite


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## shogun (May 8, 2010)

TJD... The bottle says Tamiya Color Acrylic. Small prints says to thin with Tamiya Acrylic Thinner, use water to wash up. I got it at Hobbytown USA. I assumed it was water based, but there again, small print says it's flammable, carcinagenic, etc. I'll check at Michaels.

Clyde, that is damn nice of you. I must say, I feel pretty isolated in this hobby, and your offer is very kind. I'm in the Atlanta area and know a couple guys, but rarely see them. I'd be really reluctant to send my bodies through the mail if your not around here, though. Almost all of them are keepsakes.


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

I understand Shogun, No problem, I'm a Karma kinda guy and know that you get what you give. .
Best of luck
Clyde-0-Mite


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## Illinislotfan (Mar 8, 2009)

Unfortunately, water based does not mean it is all water. From the Tamiya MSDS, the solvent blend is actually a 50/50 ratio of water/solvent. Have you tried the Floquil Pollyscale railroad acrylics? Form their MSDS's, they only contain about 2% solvent, and they are considered non-toxic. I'm not sure if even that small amount would be an issue for you, but other than the craft paints, that is about the lowest I've seen.


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

Shogun, I would look into a paint booth, that will remove the offending odors and toxins and blow them outside away from yourself. That is if you don't have one already. JMHO pig


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## shogun (May 8, 2010)

Good info, Illinis... I'll check out the Floquil. And it's good to hear - in a way- the Tamiya is 50% solvent, since it sure seemed potent.

Pig... if I may call you that : ) ... I really don't have much painting to do, just touch ups where some poor driver did barrel rolls on his head for twenty years, or where some formally chrome wheels had the misforture of not getting removed for the sonic chassis bath (I wish I could blame that on a brother in the past! Ah well, they look kinda good in silver paint). What else... engines to silver up a little, headlights. That's about it, so a paint booth, while awesome, seems like a lot for a little.


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## SplitPoster (May 16, 2006)

If I were in that position I think I would look into a paint booth or hood. Not a hood for you, but the exhaust hood that every lab of any type has. Not anything more complex than a stove vent, but everything but the front sealed. AND vented somewhere else, not just out the top! If I ever get around to building one, I'll have screen on the bottom so it pulls down and to the back as well.

You say a lot of effort for a little. Well, it's bothering you enough that you're trying to solve the problem! And, part of the issue is, depending on what you are restoring, there are limited options for paints that match up really well. You said you enjoyed painting, if you had something easy to use that fixed this issue, would you enjoy painting and do more?

The other question that comes to my mind is this. How do you react to other solvents, odors or aerosols in stuff like household cleaners, WD40, tc? There are a lot of volatile chemicals, solvents and thinners used that are quite different from each other. It would be nice to isolate exactly what types of chemicals set your system off and what you tolerate so you could try to work around them better.


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## shogun (May 8, 2010)

Hi Split,

The touch up paints don't have to match up anything - for example, I've replaced a drivers head on a brothers AFX. It's not the original head, so I don't see the need to make it look such. In fact, I'd rather it looks different, but good, so it's an obvious replacement. This will acknowledge the fun we had with it as kids (bashing it up), and the repair I'm making now. So the car will show two steps of use.. ie, fun.. and in my mind be a better loved and more valuable object for that. 

The solvents that have proven a real bother so far are acetone, any spray paint (ketones and more), laquer thinner, some alchohols, and even strong concentrations of byutles. It's enough that I really don't see myself painting a lot in the future. For a lot of jobs, I think Clyde is right, and I should ask a buddy. 

Illini, it turns out I have a few bottles of the Floquil Pollyscale... about 10 years old. I'll check them out - using a respirator outdoors!


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## ebi (Jan 24, 2007)

shogun said:


> a few bottles of the Floquil Pollyscale... about 10 years old.


Did you store that stuff in your home for ten years?
I think this can be dangerous!

The first thought was you should visit a doctor to find out if this
is a "normal" allergic reaction or if there is something serious...

Sorry i don't want to scare you but maybe there is something
you can/should do!


Kind regards
Ebi


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

I have had good luck touching up silver parts with silver sharpie markers. I know there are other paint pens on the market at hobby stores and craft stores.

Good luck man,
Old Blue


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

old blue said:


> I have had good luck touching up silver parts with silver sharpie markers. I know there are other paint pens on the market at hobby stores and craft stores.
> 
> Good luck man,
> Old Blue


seconded. i LOVE silver Sharpies for raised chrome detail.

--rick


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I just wish the tips didn't get so mushy!


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Testors makes a water based acrylic. It used to be the Pactra water base line. It's in their Model Master line. Polly S (Floquil side line) makes some good water based paints, but they all dry flat. Future or water based clear fixes that.

-Paul


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

sounds like you would like to keep painting...what about something like they use to sandblast small parts...an enclosed box with a window, gloves through a side and an evac fan...some plexi or plastic from packaging, silicone, dishwashing gloves, dryer vent tubing, duct tape, old computer fan, cardboard (or wood) box and a little light...for a cheap solution... I'm just saying good luck


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