# auto world dragstrip with return loop



## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

hey guys..my son has an auto world dragstrip with the return loop..what is the best way to mount the track to a table ??does the track need to be countersunk and use that type of screw??
thanks


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## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

.
Are you mounting permanent, Wyatt?... Semi-permanent?...

Don't forget, you'll need easy access to the *gates* batteries... Or
use a separate battery box*/*power supply for the *tree*/*finish*...

On some past store displays, I used some *L* shaped brackets on
the track edges... Most were made of ABS plastic... Some, aluminum...
Aluminum would probably be best if you are going to be tilting or
folding the board up...

Other ways of mounting will be along, shortly...

John
.


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

Dushkwoneshe said:


> .
> Are you mounting permanent, Wyatt?... Semi-permanent?...
> 
> Don't forget, you'll need easy access to the *gates* batteries... Or
> ...


i would like to mount permanent and the be able to store it also


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

A 4.5 volt, 800 MA DC adapter will work nicely to replace the batteries at each gate. I recently did this using the AW circuit boards to power larger lights for my portable drag strip.

-Paul


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

What kind of table surface are you trying to mount it on?

-- D


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

Dslot said:


> What kind of table surface are you trying to mount it on?
> 
> -- D


wood /plywood sheet


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

You might want to check *HO Slot Car Racing's* *HO Track Sections* page. Scroll down to *Track Mounting Tips* and *Track Mounting with Screws,* about halfway down the page.

Tomy/AutoWorld track has nubs on the tabs to lock the sections together more firmly for building floor layouts. 










But they tend to make the joints bumpier. For a permanent layout, many people file them down or cut them off. Here's a *thread* on the issue.

There is info on gluing track joints and soldering power rail *on this page*. Smooth any glued or soldered points with a fine hobby file. If this is done properly, it can make the track smoother and more electrically reliable.

Some people worry about about noise. I don't and I'd guess the problem would be more with road courses than with dragstrips. But if you are, put a couple of blobs of silicone caulk on the bottom of each track piece. Carefully nail or screw each segment down temporarily with the track almost touching the tabletop. After the caulk sets, remove the nails/screws. The track will be supported and secured by elastic pads of silicone.

Best of luck.

-- D


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