# Tube Glue Vs Liquid cement



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Hi,As I'm getting older and more nervous,I am gradually switching to liquid cement.I don't paint over every kit I build,and liquid cement is far more forgiving in case you get some on an exposed model surface.When I was younger,I used tube glue flawlessley,rarely made mistakes.I have been using microweld,which works very well,and forms a strong bond.It seems like the tube glue worked better and had a stronger bond when I was a younger modeler.K Mart made one of the best plastic tube model cements,I've ever used.It has since vanished,one thing I will say,model paints(namely acrylics)havecome a very long way,I can brush paint over whole models,without brush marks,which was a problem years ago,Guy S.


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## spe130 (Apr 13, 2004)

The best tube glue I've ever seen is made by Super Glue Corp. It's basically MEK and styrene merged into a gelatinous mass. Great for filling gaps, and it fuses styrene like the liquid glues do. I need to find an online source, I found it at Target once and haven't seen it since.


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## Daikaiju1 (Apr 26, 2005)

In my roughly 20 years of continous building since I was a kid, I have used tube glue a couple of times and that was to do some joints on the lifesize Revell Skull. I built 2 of em for a mate. I graduated to liquid cement via Testors pinky label, Plastruct Plasticweld (horrible), then straight MEK and Tamiya Extra thin. I also use the Micro Weld when a slower setting cement is needed. I would not recommend tube glue for any adult modeller, to my mind it is just not effective in application, drying time, sandability, etc.

Generally I use MEK/Tamiya, superglue and thats about it unless glueing in LEDS or metal, I use 5 Min Epoxy.

For seams I also HIGHLY recommend Mr Surfacer 500 in the bottle. Quick and easy.

My 2 cents, for what its worth


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## 1711rob (Mar 15, 2006)

I have stuck with (oops couldn't help it) the testors super glue for models.
works well and can be used to fill gaps when mixed to a paste with baby powder.since wal mart is getting rid of their model section (at least around here) i had to oder some direct from testors.


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## Daikaiju1 (Apr 26, 2005)

1711rob said:


> I have* stuck with (oops couldn't help it)* the testors super glue for models.
> works well and can be used to fill gaps when mixed to a paste with baby powder.since wal mart is getting rid of their model section (at least around here) i had to oder some direct from testors.



Don't worry, I did Tamya Light Curing Putty could _Fill a Gap_ on another board when their solvent putty was discontinued. No bites


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

I've been using the plain old Testors tube glue that you find at Wal Mart, if they still have it. I find it gets a nice solid bond for most styrene plastic models - why switch?

Huzz


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## Daikaiju1 (Apr 26, 2005)

Dave Hussey said:


> I've been using the plain old Testors tube glue that you find at Wal Mart, if they still have it. I find it gets a nice solid bond for most styrene plastic models - why switch?
> 
> Huzz


Cos Liquid cement is MUCH neater and easier to use. you hold the parts to be joined together and apply the cement with a brush or syringe. My US comrades like to use Tenax and some others, tho I cannot buy them locally. I find the Tamiya, Microweld and MEK good for most jobs.

Please Don't Anyone try to use the Testor contour Putty in the grey tube. Better off , well I can't say, but please use real putty, like MM red, Squadron green or white, or the Tamiya Light Curing Putty. 
Linky 
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=87076


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Call me "old fashioned", but if something works, why change? Ever since Testor's came out with applicator attachments for their tubes, cementing styrene kits has never been so clean. I do use thick-jelled CA cement and 5-minute epoxy glue when absolutly necessessary, but for the most part, I'm a Testor's faithful. I am very content with Testor's squeeze bottle cements, too.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

i recently switch to the liquid cements, after a lifetime of tube glue. i'll never look back. the bond is so much stronger.


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

I am rather fond of Ambroid Proweld. It is the only plastic glue that I know of that will stick butyrate (the clear sheets, good for windows).


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

I stopped using tube glue when I was 9 or 10 years old. I never liked the sloppiness of it. I've been using Weldene, Tenax or CA of one variety or another ever since. Its much cleaner, bonds faster and I rarely, if ever, get any on me that I can accidentally stick somewhere else. I use a couple of superfine metal tube applicator bottles... they work great!


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## kylwell (Mar 13, 2004)

I switched to Tenax some 20 years ago and have never looked back. Finer application, faster dry time, better hold. Only real thing I've been happy with since is the Wave Black CA, rubber and carbon impregnated CA. You can see where it goes, fills gaps, _very_ strong, and you can sand it weeks later if need be. Only drawback is the cost, but I've been looking into Mercury Adhesives line, but thiers and the Wave have a very cool cap that stops the CA from hardening or clogging up.


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## Mr. Wabac (Nov 9, 2002)

I used tube glue for longer than I care to think. Finally made the switch to the liquid stuff (still from Testors). I can't believe how many years of my life were wasted using tube glue. The bonds are stronger (and faster) and don't require any cleanup. In many cases, they can create their own "putty" which finishes the seam nicely, very light sanding needed. Just a drop at the top and it runs the length of the part; light pressure - done !


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

jwrjr said:


> I am rather fond of Ambroid Proweld. It is the only plastic glue that I know of that will stick butyrate (the clear sheets, good for windows).


 I just picked up a bottle of the proweld, How does it work with clear styrene parts such as windows or canapies ? any fogging from the proweld ? I have some testors clear parts cement, but it doesn't seem to bond very strong.


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## spe130 (Apr 13, 2004)

model maker said:


> I just picked up a bottle of the proweld, How does it work with clear styrene parts such as windows or canapies ? any fogging from the proweld ? I have some testors clear parts cement, but it doesn't seem to bond very strong.


I haven't noticed much in the way of clear parts problems with Ambroid. I usually try to keep it confined to the mounting flanges on the back of a window part, though.


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## flyingfrets (Oct 19, 2001)

I used tube glue from the time I started building (around '65) to the time I discovered S/D/R&R (around '74 or '75). Didn't build anything for maybe 10 years, but when I came back to it, I used CA (still do when I have time to build something). Works well for me and I never sweat the multi-media kits since it sticks to pretty much anything and everything...which is why due caution is a must.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Dave Hussey said:


> I've been using the plain old Testors tube glue that you find at Wal Mart, if they still have it. I find it gets a nice solid bond for most styrene plastic models - why switch?
> 
> Huzz


I'm right there with you Huzz! I've tried liquid cement and CA, and I still prefer good old Testors for styrene.


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## kylwell (Mar 13, 2004)

Zombie_61 said:


> I'm right there with you Huzz! I've tried liquid cement and CA, and I still prefer good old Testors for styrene.


Liquid cements, and there are many, are hotter than Testors Tube glue. There fore they glue better, faster, and more completely. Becasue you apply them with a brush, toothpick or applicator you can also get them in to tiny little areas. They're also faster to apply, dab some on the locator pins, click the parts together and put a few droplets into the seam and hold. About 30 seconds later you can let got and continue. If you do it right you'll also get a small seam of styrene forming a ridge. Let harden and then sand/file down for a seamless joint.

There is a learning curve to liquid cements, but it's pretty shallow and may depend on how long it takes you to find you're perfered speed of glue.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

kylwell said:


> Liquid cements, and there are many, are hotter than Testors Tube glue. There fore they glue better, faster, and more completely. Becasue you apply them with a brush, toothpick or applicator you can also get them in to tiny little areas. They're also faster to apply, dab some on the locator pins, click the parts together and put a few droplets into the seam and hold. About 30 seconds later you can let got and continue. If you do it right you'll also get a small seam of styrene forming a ridge. Let harden and then sand/file down for a seamless joint.
> 
> There is a learning curve to liquid cements, but it's pretty shallow and may depend on how long it takes you to find you're perfered speed of glue.


I appreciate the advice, but I'm "old school"--been building kits since the late 60's, so I'm used to gluing parts together and setting them aside until the next day. Also, I've gotten to a point with Testors where I generally have very little seam filling to do. Properly applied, it does all the work; a little sanding and the occasional puttying (depending upon how well designed the kit is) and I'm good to go.

"Call me a relic, call me what you will, say I'm old-fashioned, say I'm over-the-hill," I like Testors. *shrug*


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

when you add putty, do you apply it to bare plastic or do you use primer before applying putty ?


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## flyingfrets (Oct 19, 2001)

model maker said:


> when you add putty, do you apply it to bare plastic or do you use primer before applying putty ?


I've never used primer before putty Bert. Generally, I only want to fill a seam, so I wouldn't want any on the surface.

If I need to fill an ejector pin mark or a sink hole on the surface, I still don't use primer since I don't want a barrier between the plastic & the putty. Some putties are "hotter" than others and you want it to bite into the plastic, not a layer that would interfere with adhesion.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

flyingfrets said:


> I've never used primer before putty Bert. Generally, I only want to fill a seam, so I wouldn't want any on the surface.
> 
> If I need to fill an ejector pin mark or a sink hole on the surface, I still don't use primer since I don't want a barrier between the plastic & the putty. Some putties are "hotter" than others and you want it to bite into the plastic, not a layer that would interfere with adhesion.


I concur 100%. Primer is used after puttying and sanding to give the paint better adhesion.


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## kylwell (Mar 13, 2004)

model maker said:


> when you add putty, do you apply it to bare plastic or do you use primer before applying putty ?


Yes, yes, and yes.

I rarely use primer, usually only if I have a mixed media model. And then it's because I either want an even paint adhesion or I need to find all the pits and divots. 

I build to paint, so anything that makes the building go by faster I'm all for.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Thanks, my question is answered.


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