# Need repair manual for Tecumseh VLV55



## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

Hello,

I'm a homeowner who is trying to get more life out of my old Snapper lawnmower. I replaced the original engine back in 1996 with a Tecumseh VLV55 5.5 hp Vector. Rope broke, I repaired that, and now it won't hit a lick! Have no idea why. Does anyone have a .pdf repair manual they could email me? Sure would appreciate it. [email protected]

Thanks!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

pavlograd said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm a homeowner who is trying to get more life out of my old Snapper lawnmower. I replaced the original engine back in 1996 with a Tecumseh VLV55 5.5 hp Vector. Rope broke, I repaired that, and now it won't hit a lick! Have no idea why. Does anyone have a .pdf repair manual they could email me? Sure would appreciate it. [email protected]
> 
> Thanks!


I am sorry but I don't have a manual for the VLV engine, but we may be able to help you trouble shoot your problem if you like. 

Was the engine running prior to the rope breaking? 

How long has it been since you have started this engine?

Have you checked to see if you are getting spark and fuel?


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

*Troubleshooting Tecumseh VLV55*

It ran last summer, and before the rope broke, it would start on high throttle and burn out the prime at high rpm. I'd have to really pump on the primer to get this to happen, however.

Then the rope broke. I removed the plastic gas tank, then the metal shroud, and I had to loosen the two main bolts on the carb in order to get at one screw holding on the front of the plastic tank/shroud. The carb was basically hanging by the linkages and the fuel line while I worked on removing the recoil starter and fixing the rope.

I put everything back, tightened up the carb, etc. Did not disconnect any linkages or springs that I'm aware of. There was one little piece left over - it was a little square piece of black painted metal that had been somehow attached to the two little screws that secure the plate that the throttle and emergency stop lever stick out through. The piece of metal is about 1"x1" and has a little slot in it. Since I had never hooked up the emergency stop when I changed engines back in 1995, I figured this little metal piece was to hold the emergency stop lever in the back (or run) position. But, I could not figure out how it went on so that one screw would hold it, and the slot would hold back the lever. So, I left it off and tied the emergency stop lever back with a piece of wire.

After this, it would not even 'pop' no matter how much I primed it. I know it has old gas in the carb, and I was trying to run it out until the good gas (I added to the tank) would come in.

That's about all I know to tell.

Steve


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

I haven't yet checked to see if I'm getting spark, but I did remove the plug and it was wet with gas, but not super wet.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

There should be a screw on the side of the carburetor float bowl that you can loosen to drain the old gas from the carburetor. Drain the old fuel and then see if you can get it to start or at least pop. Post back with your results


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

Okay, new report. I found one problem that was caused by my hurry and sweat in my eyes. The gasket that goes between the carb and the case was not in position. It was only on one bolt and had 'fallen' down so that it wasn't pointing down toward the deck. I thought 'ah-hah!' I found the problem, but unfortunately after fixing that, I now find that I am not getting spark to the plug. I tried 2 plugs, held by pliers up against the fins of the head and no spark.

Question: That emergency shut-down lever should be in the Rear position correct? I tried it in the rear and in the default forward position both and got no spark in either position. I cannot, for the life of me, understand what I could possibly have done to messed up anything to do with the ignition!

What now? Thanks, Steve


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

In that last post, regarding the gasket... I meant to say that 'so it WAS pointing down toward the deck'!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I hate to tell you this, but if you don't have any spark, you are going to need to take the cover back off. There is a good chance that the kill switch wire that comes off of the coil may be pinched or may have come out of the kill switch itself. Need to inspect all that, and to answer your question about the position of the lever, Yest is should be pulled towards the back of the engine to disengage the brake and switch.


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

I can do that with no problem - takes about 5 minutes. But, when I had it off again recently (when I found the carb gasket positioned incorrectly), I looked everything over pretty closely. I could only see two wire (green ones) coming out of the coil and they were connected to with the 'push on' connectors right there at the front of the coil. Also, there was a wire connected to a little white plastic piece that had another uninsulated wire sticking out the other end. This was the 'kill switch' when you reduce the throttle down to minimum and the throttle lever comes in contact with that 'wire' and kills the engine. I didn't see anything else. Can you tell me better exactly where to look? Is there some wire coming out from up under the coil that I can't easily see?

Thanks, Steve


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

pavlograd said:


> I can do that with no problem - takes about 5 minutes. But, when I had it off again recently (when I found the carb gasket positioned incorrectly), I looked everything over pretty closely. I could only see two wire (green ones) coming out of the coil and they were connected to with the 'push on' connectors right there at the front of the coil. Also, there was a wire connected to a little white plastic piece that had another uninsulated wire sticking out the other end. This was the 'kill switch' when you reduce the throttle down to minimum and the throttle lever comes in contact with that 'wire' and kills the engine. I didn't see anything else. Can you tell me better exactly where to look? Is there some wire coming out from up under the coil that I can't easily see?
> 
> Thanks, Steve


The other switch is under the flywheel and is the kill switch that works with the engine brake


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

Well, I didn't have to remove the flywheel, but started to. All I had to do was remove the kill switch wire from the terminal on the coil to disable it! I had kill switch disabled anyway because I had removed the kill switch lever up on the handle.

BUT... I had removed the coil in preparation to remove the flywheel. I've put everything back and I am getting spark, but want to know what is the clearance between the coil and flywheel magnet supposed to be? I've got it set now to about the width of the thickness of a plastic credit card.

I've tried pulling the rope about 10 times, but still no pop. I examined the plug (a new one) and it appears very dry to me.


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

Well, she fires off good with starter fluid sprayed in the cylinder, but burns it off in about 2-3 seconds. Still can't seem now to get gas to flow.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The problem lies in the carburetor, it's not feeding any fuel to the engine. Most likely the small O-Ring on the nozzle and sealing the jet need to be replaced.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=60764&stc=1&d=1212884771
VLV_Carburetor.pdf

The seals that you need to check are referenced numbers 31 and 31A. 31A I have found to swell up and not allow any fuel through, and 31 will shrink and allow air to leak around nozzle and fuel will not be drawn through.


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

I sure appreciate your help! I guess I'll gave to order those o-rings from a shop. I'll try working on it after next week when I get home from vacation. I almost decided to sell it, but now I'm thinking of 'restoring' this good ol Snapper from 1985! Once the engine is running right, there isn't that much else except the drive system, and I've worked on that before.

You didn't respond to my question about what the gap between the coil and flywheel should spec at? I'm close, but would like to adjust it just right.

Say, is there any market for lawnmower repair shops this day in time? I'm looking for something I can do after I retire.

Do you think this mower is worthy of restoring? I'll send you a photo.

<home.fuse.net/svanos/snapper1.jpg>


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## pavlograd (May 30, 2008)

I see a part #31 and a part #37A. When you said '31A' did you mean to say '37A'?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

pavlograd said:


> I see a part #31 and a part #37A. When you said '31A' did you mean to say '37A'?


Must have not had my glasses on... Yes it's referenced # 37 & 37A which are the same part number, just different locations.

As for the the air gap, I will see if I can locate the correct spec. I usually set them at .010"


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## marcvb (May 30, 2008)

hello ,i have the repair manual on pdf file ,send your email adres to [email protected] and then i send it to you.
kind regards marc
:thumbsup:


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## STICKLYCARDS (Jun 20, 2008)

Any One Know Were To Get A Rebuild Kit For The Vlv 55 Carb And Power Screw?

Thanks


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

STICKLYCARDS said:


> Any One Know Were To Get A Rebuild Kit For The Vlv 55 Carb And Power Screw?
> 
> Thanks


Any shop that handles Tecumseh parts should be able to get what you need. You can also get parts online at Sears.com, Partstree.com, Jackssmallengines.com etc.... 

There are many online sources.


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