# Husqvarna 140B Blower



## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

Hi All!
Need some help here. Got a Husky 140 B leaf blower (~1993 vintage). Looks like it has a Walboro HDA110 carb (# on carb body = 21-245). Need to find a rebuild kit. Can anyone suggest a link for parts?
Thanks for the help!
Best
Wayne


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

K22HDA is the part number for the carburetor kit you would need for this model carburetor.

There are many dealers online (jacks small engines, outdoor-equipment-parts.com among others) that have this part listed for around $7.00 and most small engine shops should also have it or could get it for you as well.


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## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

Thanks! When I get it rebilut, can you suggest initial setting for the low& high needle settings - i.e. 1-2 turns CC from closed?

Thanks for all you help and advice!
Best
Wayne


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

quid_non said:


> Thanks! When I get it rebilut, can you suggest initial setting for the low& high needle settings - i.e. 1-2 turns CC from closed?
> 
> Thanks for all you help and advice!
> Best
> Wayne


I always start at 1 1/2 turns from seat and then fine tune from there.


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## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

Thanks!
I'm the poster child for "if it ain't broke - don't fix it"!! 
Took the old carb apart, cleaned it up and put it back together (with old gaskets etc...). Got the thing running GREAT! (should have left alone....)

but....

Got the carb rebuild kit today, took all apart, put in new gaskets, diaphram, float valve, fine mesh screen. Reassembled - could not start it at all!
A quick spray of ether - it cranks right up, but instantly dies!
Took the fuel line off and no flow. Took the carb apart (again) to see if I put something in wrong (don't think so...) and noticed no fuel at all in carb - bone dry.
Reassembled, same no start issue (even with the needle valves adjusted in to 1-1.5 turns). Noticed no fuel in line so I siphoned it to get going and immediately put line back on carb inlet. Got it going (finally) with ether, but it wont run unless the choke is totally closed @ full throttle.
sigh.....

Now I can't even get it started again. I suspect that there must be an issue with the diaphram (no fuel)?? Any suggestions?

btw... good spark, good plug, compression ~100-120 psi after 2-3 pulls. Got the correct rebuild kit, look at all parts prior to replacement - the only significant difference noticed was the float valve, the tip on the old one had a "red rubber" looking cone on it, the new one was steel to the tip. It fit fine though.

Thanks for any help!
Best
Wayne


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

Did you use the old or the new metering lever ?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Check your metering needle adjustment, fulcrum arm should be even with the carburetor body, gasket and then diaphragm then cover.

Your old inlet needle had a pink tip because the coating that is applied to the needle had come or worn off, the coating prevents the needle from sticking in the seat and helps to keep it sealed when closed. If you rub this coating from the new needle it will also be pink or I have seen some that are green.

Make sure you have the fuel pump diaphragm installed correctly and the carburetor mounting gasket is in good shape as well. A leaking pump diaphragm will allow air to enter the crankcase and the fuel pump will not operate.

You can download a service manual for your carburetor here:
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/


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## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

Thanks for all the replys.

Glenjudy - I used the new metering lever - it looked identical to the old one though.

30 year - I'll check the adjustment as you suggested - the fulcrum are you mention, I assume, is the metering lever mentioned above? I want the top of the arm even with the body of the carb right? Thanks for the links.

Sorry for the ignorance, but to be sure - the "fuel pump" portion of the carb is loacted in the same area as the inlet needle (on the bottom)?

I'll try this today. Thanks tons for all yout advice and suggestions, really appreciated!
Best
Wayne


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## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

btw...
Looking at the carb service manual link supplied by 30yr (thanks!) - for adjusting the high speed needle, they mention turning until the "four cycling sound" is heard. I'm not sure I know what to listen for, is it possible to explain or one of those things you just gotta' hear?

also, when rebuilding carbs, do you ever need to replace those "stamped discs" that are in the kit. One loos like it is brass the other silver. If so, how in the world do you get 'em out, then the new ones reseated?
Thanks
Wayne


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

Being somewhat lazy, I always use the old metering lever, not having to adjust new one to proper height, just make sure old one doesn't show excessive wear where diaphragm contacts it, also, make sure metering lever spring is correctly installed.
thanks,


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

quid_non said:


> btw...
> Looking at the carb service manual link supplied by 30yr (thanks!) - for adjusting the high speed needle, they mention turning until the "four cycling sound" is heard. I'm not sure I know what to listen for, is it possible to explain or one of those things you just gotta' hear?
> 
> also, when rebuilding carbs, do you ever need to replace those "stamped discs" that are in the kit. One loos like it is brass the other silver. If so, how in the world do you get 'em out, then the new ones reseated?
> ...


Put simply the "four cycling sound" is when it justs starts to "sputter", if you adjust it for that really "smooth sound" it will be too lean and can cause the engine to overheat and cause damage, also it will be low on power.

No, you don't always have to mess with the disc's (welch plugs) unless the carburetor is very dirty. Since you indicated it was running good before the kit, then I don't think you would need to mess with those. The brass colored one is usually a high speed check valve and not a plug. Rebuild kits don't usually come with these. You destroy the plugs when you remove them, they are coned shaped and when tapped flat they expand at the edges to seal and hold themselves in place.

The fuel pump diaphragm is located on the opposite side of the carburetor from the metering diaphragm. These are things that should be checked, just to be sure, but I think your issue is in the metering lever (fulcrum) adjustment.

Best of Luck... :thumbsup:


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## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

Okay, now its getting silly!
Checked the metering lever - the new one, as installed, was just where it should be based on the Walbro data. Swapped it out with the old one just to be sure. Same problem - starts with ether, but dies...

So, disassembled the fuel pump and swapped out the new gaskets with the old ones...Now it pumps fuel (progress!!!), but only runs with the choke fully closed.

Swapped out the new float with the old one, no change, swapped out the new diaphram with the old one, same issues - - only starts with ether and needs full choke.

Low and High needle valves placed ~1 1/4 CC from seat - trried to adjust High valve to get right mixture (w/Choke) - as I let the choke off it immediately dies - sonds way to rich and when I take the carb off, all is flooded with mix.

I'm discouraged, but not beaten, this things gonna work!

Any suggestions fro next steps?

As said many times on this board, all you guys are GREAT! Thanks for educating us with your expereince!
Best
Wayne


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Check for an air leak and fuel lines and fuel pickup. The problem may not be in your carburetor.

I tried to look at your unit to give you better idea's of what to look for but I can't find any information on the model you listed. Are there any other numbers or letters in the model number?


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## quid_non (Nov 13, 2007)

Got it fixed!!!
Thanks to all for the great suggestions and advice. Totally dismantled the carb (again), cleaned and was etremenly carefuly about putting to back together with the NEW KIT!!
The metering lever was a bit too high so I readjusted it to be level with the base as suggested in the Walbro info. This may be why it was flooding?? Anyway, I suspect that I must have missed something the first time.

30 year - thanks for suggestion "to look elsewhere" for a problem - seems I had installed one of the air intake manifolds upside down - it looks identical, but the "right way" had a samll vent hole that matched up with a small vent on the carb, I suspect this is why it would run only at full choke - was not getting the proper mix air/fuel.

Runs like a top now - I'm looking forward to another 15 yrs of service from it!

Thanks again for all the great advice and time!
Best
Wayne


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Thats Great!!! Glad you got it going again... :thumbsup:


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