# Polar Lights/Round 2 Enterprise



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

I just finished building the new Enterprise Refit from Polar Lights/ Round 2. I am an avid model builder, but in no way am I a professional. I do this for enjoyment, and as a great hobby. The Aztec decals are amazing. I cant wait for the 1/350 TOS Enterprise, and even the new movie Enterprise.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*More Pics*

Here are some more pics . Notice how the Aztec decals compare pretty nicely to the painted patterns. A ton less time as well


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## SamwiseVT (Apr 30, 2009)

I congratulate you on your build. And as no criticism to you, I think PL made the decals too blue, I would have loved to see them toned down a bit.


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## Dino Lynn Bob (Sep 28, 2008)

It looks great!!
How much actual painting did you do on this?
How well do the decals conform to the body? Are they bitch to put on and use a lot of decal set?
Lynn


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

I disagree that the decals look anywhere near as good as a painted pearl finish. This is in no way a criticism to you Jaws as you did a great build up.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

There is NO substitute for a good paint job. That said, I've seen the finished PL model up close, and I was impressed enough by the overall effect to pick up one of the kits. 

Great job, Jaws.

Just curious; how hard did you find it to cut out the window apertures afyer the decals had dried? Did you do so prior to installing the clear windows? 

And what about puttying and seam-filling? Did you apply the decals to the sub-assemblies?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I'll jump in with a question.

Did you find it hard to handle tha sections after you had decalled them? I'd be worrying about the decals coming back off in my hands


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

I did very minimal painting on this kit. the blue on the pylons, the clear red and blue for engines and impulse, the shuttle bay and arbetorium, details on the upper and lower saucer. I applied decals to the sub assemblies first. Windows were in place already. i had to trim all the decals after they dried where there were windows. lots of decal set on this as well.I dont do putty or seams, the pylons have a tiny gap in them. Ive never done much in gap filling.


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## rossjr (Jun 25, 2001)

I don't know why you paint it overall in in the Tamiya Pearl white and then decal over that.

But I am in Lou's boat worried about the decals lifting in the construction process. I am sure I would seal them before handling the sub assemblies but, stuff happens....


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

rossjr said:


> But I am in Lou's boat worried about the decals lifting in the construction process. I am sure I would seal them before handling the sub assemblies but, stuff happens....


I did one for a local hobby shop a couple of months ago using the decal sheets from Acreation. With that many decals sealing is a must. They will not hold up otherwise. This isn't a crticism of Acreation, Round 2 or any other decal sets, it's just the nature of the beast. Time and climate conditions will take their toll on unprotected decals.

I used about three coats of satin finish on the Acreation decals and the client was very pleased with the effect.

I actually did all the decaling after she was completely assembled. This makes it a little awkward to work with and really slows down the application process but it sure beats accidentally getting glue on the decals while assembling the sub-assemblies.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Hats off to ya!
Great build to be proud of.:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## Dino Lynn Bob (Sep 28, 2008)

Jaws..Are you saying you didn't even paint the white on the body and just put the decals right over the plastic?

Lynn


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

The decals were put right on top of the white plastic, after washing the plastic in soap and water. No primer or paint. Looks really good with minimum time or effort. I might get another kit and try to light it with a little more painting involved, but I wanted a great looking kit without having to kill myself making it. it took about a week and a half to finish.


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## Dino Lynn Bob (Sep 28, 2008)

Impressive... Most impressive...
That alone sold me on this one, after two unsuccessful builds, I may just try another one.
I don't need accuracy, I just want a displayable ship is just something other then solid white. 
Lynn


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

I back you 100 percent Jaws.I don't feel like making every kit a big effort.If a model looks good straight from the box and the decals and minimal painting will cut it then thats fine for me.I also don't putty much and all that.Just want to have a good time.Guy Schlicter.


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

Thanks for posting this. Makes me think that if someone is going for a post-STIII look after ILM got a hold of the refit model, the decals won't be that bad. They won't do it for the TMP version of the ship, perhaps, but may be better for the Enterprise as she appears in, for example, ST VI.


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## Epsilon (Apr 3, 2004)

Nice work, Jaws!

I'm probably closer to building this kit your way, with the exception of adding the base coat of white primer with some shaker-can white-pearl. I just want my big-a#$ed starship!!!!

Just a curiousity. How high is that model completed with the stand? I'm looking to find a local glass place to estimate how much it will cost to make a plexiglass box display.


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## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

Jaws...GREAT build-up!! Looks awesome!

What I've decided to do with mine is to apply a base coat of a light grey, with a misting of pearl over that, before the aztek decals go on. I'll determine what shade and tone of grey to use AFTER I see the decals with my own eyes...I want the base coat to be just a few hairs lighter than the decals to make the aztek effect a bit subtler than they are on just a stark white background. Not a criticism to anyone else's paint-jobs or builds, just a personal preference issue. As for the strongbacks, I plan to buy the green TMP-TWOK strongback decals from Acreation. I've always thought that the blue color scheme looks a little "toyish", whereas the green has a slightly more real-life look, like a present-day military helicopter or ground vehicle.

My question to those who've actually seen/worked with this reissue: How sturdy is the new rod assembly for the display stand? What does it actually look like, up close? The pics on the PL/R2 site don't really show it very well.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

The metal rod is ten times better than the previous stand. My only problem with it is that it is solid as opposed to being able to put wires through it for lighting. It fits snuggly in the two holes , one in the base and one under the sensor dish.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Solid? Yikes! Jaws62666, do you think that substituting a hollow brass rod of the same diameter would work? Would it be strong enough to support the model?


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

I would think as long as it is the same thickness, just have enough space in the middle to get wires through.


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## guartho (May 4, 2004)

When I built my refit, pre-round2, I used a brass tube instead of the supplied stand parts. It is definitely strong enough, but I also ran the tube all the way up to the base of the saucer section to spread the stress out as much as possible.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I think K&B makes stainless steel tubes,which is what I'd use.Jaws,great job on your model.....


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Fozzie said:


> Solid? Yikes! Jaws62666, do you think that substituting a hollow brass rod of the same diameter would work? Would it be strong enough to support the model?


I made a 1/2" hollow brass rod stand for my original issue one and yes, it's perfectly strong enough.

The only thing I did different was put the rod off-center lengthwise, so I could get more of the stand under the secondary hull. It just looks better to me.


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

I've been inspired by yours.I will build my first Polar Lights refit with minimal effort and painting as well,Guy Schlicter


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