# My Seaview Build



## Captain Han Solo

Howdy all.

I thought I would start this thread of the Build Up of my Moebius Seaview, so we can share Build Up Techniques and Ideas.

First, let me say a Big Thanks to Frank at Moebius for this Fantastic Kit:thumbsup:

Ok, I elected to build her up as what she is, a Replica of the beautifull 17'2" Sub. So I chose the Viewports WITHOUT the framing and the 20 Missle Hatches.

In these first pics, I have drilled out all the limber holes (using a Dremal with a 1/16 drill bit, and putting two to four pilot holes depending on the size of the Limber hole)

I also have started the Sanding/Priming/Sanding...Of the area where the two hull parts meet and the Main Viewport. For this model,Putty is overkill(IMHO), So I used the ol' Gap filling glue and baking soda technique.

It's making the seams dissappear, but I still need to do more.


----------



## Dave Hussey

It already looks fabulous!

Huzz


----------



## JohnGuard

did'nt hamlet say:

to build with the interior or not to build with the interior, that is the question?
tis nobler to find out whats the best way to show the interior if that is the plan!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

JohnGuard said:


> did'nt hamlet say:
> 
> to build with the interior or not to build with the interior, that is the question?
> tis nobler to find out whats the best way to show the interior if that is the plan!


 
I am building the Interior. In fact I have already started it. With some custom additions of my own.

BP


----------



## falcondesigns

Too much time on your hands!!Great build.Alexander


----------



## xsavoie

Wow!It already looks awesome,even unfinished.I think that the Seaview is a great ship to display.Any of you guys will put it in your living rooms when you finish your own.:thumbsup:


----------



## Carson Dyle

Looking good!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Thank you gentlemen!

But it's just the begining.

Regards, 
BP


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Are you going to get the light kit?


----------



## JohnGuard

so you are not going to wait for a decal set or a lighting kit yet to be sold?


----------



## Admiral Nelson

JohnGuard said:


> so you are not going to wait for a decal set or a lighting kit yet to be sold?


Decals? For what?


----------



## Admiral Nelson

beatlepaul said:


> Howdy all.
> 
> I thought I would start this thread of the Build Up of my Moebius Seaview, so we can share Build Up Techniques and Ideas.
> 
> First, let me say a Big Thanks to Frank at Moebius for this Fantastic Kit:thumbsup:
> 
> Ok, I elected to build her up as what she is, a Replica of the beautifull 17'2" Sub. So I chose the Viewports WITHOUT the framing and the 20 Missle Hatches.
> 
> In these first pics, I have drilled out all the limber holes (using a Dremal with a 1/16 drill bit, and putting two to four pilot holes depending on the size of the Limber hole)
> 
> I also have started the Sanding/Priming/Sanding...Of the area where the two hull parts meet and the Main Viewport. For this model,Putty is overkill(IMHO), So I used the ol' Gap filling glue and baking soda technique.
> 
> It's making the seams dissappear, but I still need to do more.


 You know that color is almost if not dead on.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Actually the color needs to be darkened quite a bit. I am talking to the guys who actually have worked on or seen the effects Miniature. The color is somewhat elusive.
It's NOT the color recommended in the Instructions.
Yes I am going to light It Up with my own Lighting system, and I don't really need the decals.

Regards,
BP


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Admiral Nelson said:


> Are you going to get the light kit?


 
Yes Sir I am!!!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## JohnGuard

decals for the interior! someone will be making a set!

thats what i mean, i'd like to build mine but as soon as i finish, someone will come out with some great aftermarket stuff!!!!!!!!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

JohnGuard said:


> decals for the interior! someone will be making a set!
> 
> thats what i mean, i'd like to build mine but as soon as i finish, someone will come out with some great aftermarket stuff!!!!!!!!


Actually, the kit has almost everything . The other Stuff I can scratch Build.
The little Flying sub...Now I am waiting for the aftermarket kits for that!!!

BP


----------



## Admiral Nelson

beatlepaul said:


> Yes I agree the color is almost there!!
> 
> It's NOT the color recommended in the Instructions.
> Yes I am going to light It Up with my own Lighting system, and I don't really need the decals.
> 
> Regards,
> BP


I haven't been this pumped about a model since the release of the TOS Enterprise in the 60's.


----------



## bert model maker

Go BeatlePaul GO !!!!!!


----------



## The Batman

*SCHWEEEEET!*
- GJS


----------



## Argonaut

Please elaborate...baking soda and gap filling glue?


----------



## DinoMike

Argonaut said:


> Please elaborate...baking soda and gap filling glue?


 Applying thick formula ("gap-filling") super glue to a seam, then hitting it with a little baking soda, causes a reaction that cures the glue instantly, ready for sanding... which you had better do, as that stuff turns harder than styrene within an hour.


----------



## woof359

*seems*

to main thing s i was worring about be4 i bought one of these was the seem between front and rear hulls and the viewport. wadda you think> hard to deal with so the hull is smooth?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

woof359 said:


> to main thing s i was worring about be4 i bought one of these was the seem between front and rear hulls and the viewport. wadda you think> hard to deal with so the hull is smooth?


 
Again, I used gap Filling Superglue and Bakng Soda.

For me it has been working like a charm:thumbsup:

Oh, I joined the two hull Parts(Bow to the stern) With JB Weld to insure a permanent Bond.


----------



## Paulbo

JohnGuard said:


> decals for the interior! someone will be making a set! thats what i mean, i'd like to build mine but as soon as i finish, someone will come out with some great aftermarket stuff!!!!!!!!


You mean like THIS?


beatlepaul said:


> Actually, the kit has almost everything . The other Stuff I can scratch Build.
> The little Flying sub...Now I am waiting for the aftermarket kits for that!!!


Or THIS?

:wave:


----------



## Argonaut

DinoMike said:


> Applying thick formula ("gap-filling") super glue to a seam, then hitting it with a little baking soda, causes a reaction that cures the glue instantly, ready for sanding... which you had better do, as that stuff turns harder than styrene within an hour.


Thanks! I'll give it a try. Still waiting for the lighting kit and the FS-1
interior! Can't wait. Any younger modelers not aquainted with "Voyage"
picking up this kit just cuz it looks cool??


----------



## fluke

DinoMike said:


> Applying thick formula ("gap-filling") super glue to a seam, then hitting it with a little baking soda, causes a reaction that cures the glue instantly, ready for sanding... which you had better do, as that stuff turns harder than styrene within an hour.


An hour!?.....I thought it was that hard after 1/2 a second? 
Folks....this trick is da bomb! I couldn't build without it....especialy when working with resin kits .

You can also use this technique for very fast setting super re-inforced glue welds where you have room, and where it will not be seen. This technique allows the builder to keep on truckin like nutz! 

The area where you need to be cautious is that this stuff is harder than the resin or styrene so sand down the majority of the glue/soda first then carefully the rest......if not you can find yourself sanding away too much area and not the weld.

LOOKING GOOD DUDE!! :thumbsup: :woohoo:

Those decals do look pretty groovy.

Is this the lighting kit that will be offered by* Space Circuits* through Fuzznoggin creations or Strange Stuff Studios?


----------



## FoxTrot

I still want my 8-windows... but I gotta admit the flush/frameless 4-windows look darned nice! Fox


----------



## Admiral Nelson

beatlepaul said:


> Again, I used gap Filling Superglue and Bakng Soda.
> 
> For me ithas been working like a charm:thumbsup:
> 
> Oh, I joined the two hull Parts(Bow to the stern) With JB Weld to insure a permanent Bond.


JB Weld is the mother of all bonding.:thumbsup:


----------



## jbeatles62

Hello All, I jusr got an e-mail from Randy with VooDooFX. Seaview lighting system is in the works!! 
From: randy neubert [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 5:44 PM
To: Mike Maglapit
Subject: Re: Moebius Seaview Lighting Kit

Hello Mike,

We are working with Moebius Models on the Seaview lighting kit project. I have the third test model and have worked out a good clean lighting system for the model kit, just waiting for the kits to star coming out. 

Thanks for the email, call me if you have nay questions 650-568-3400

Randy Neubert
VoodooFX
3312 Hoover Street
Redwood City, Ca 94063
650-568-3400

Moebius Seaview Lighting Kit
To: [email protected]
Date: Thursday, May 1, 2008, 7:12 AM
Good morning,

Are there any plans to produce a lighting kit for the Moebius Seaview?

Thanks 

Mike Maglapit
Desktop Support Tech
7157 Florida Blvd.
Baton Rouge, LA 70806


----------



## Admiral Nelson

I will do a lighting kit. I hope the bulbs are small enough that they can be replaced by sliding then in and out of the provided shaft for lighting. The lower flying sub bay can be snapped into place so those bulbs can be replaced no problem. Fiberoptic would work great on the fins.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Here is a seamless Seaview.

Using the Super Glue/Baking soda method, I have made the Hull one smmooth Surface.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Another view from the side.....Also I have started to put the pics in my Photo album for you guys to really check out:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Seaview

:thumbsup: Excellent workmanship as always, "Mr. McCartney"! Very inspiring, and I can hardly wait to sink my teeth into building the thing, instead of just having to focus on the prep work for now.
All I'm waiting on is Just An Illusion for the interior decals, and VooDooFX for the lighting kit, and a Teskey 8-window bow section for my second Seaview. :dude:


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Are the girders behind the window braces suppose to touch each other? I glued the control room onto the flying sub bay where the tabs are and the window braces are away from the girters. I always thought the braces were supports for the windows and thus had to contact each other. Am I wrong?


----------



## Gilusions

Seaview said:


> :thumbsup: Excellent workmanship as always, "Mr. McCartney"! Very inspiring, and I can hardly wait to sink my teeth into building the thing, instead of just having to focus on the prep work for now.
> All I'm waiting on is Just An Illusion for the interior decals, and VooDooFX for the lighting kit, and a Teskey 8-window bow section for my second Seaview. :dude:


Hello Seaview,

What I want you to know is that Paul from ParaGrafix Modeling Systems and myself Just an illusion have gotten together for a full lighting system with decals!

The lighting system has been ready for while now. This is from bow to stern light system including interior. the test piece that I had was useful but we needed to wait for the production for final tweaking. 

The control panels are cast pieces that are set up for back lighting with Paul's decals for the enhancement. 

We are hoping to have everything including ParaGrafix's photo-etch for the Flying Sub by the end of next week.

Gil Henandez

www.justanillusion.biz


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Gilusions said:


> Hello Seaview,
> 
> What I want you to know is that Paul from ParaGrafix Modeling Systems and myself Just an illusion have gotten together for a full lighting system with decals!
> 
> The lighting system has been ready for while now. This is from bow to stern light system including interior. the test piece that I had was useful but we needed to wait for the production for final tweaking.
> 
> The control panels are cast pieces that are set up for back lighting with Paul's decals for the enhancement.
> 
> We are hoping to have everything including ParaGrafix's photo-etch for the Flying Sub by the end of next week.
> 
> Gil Henandez
> 
> www.justanillusion.biz


If this is up to par with the rest of your stuff then we're in for a treat.:thumbsup: Do you know where the on/off switch will be?


----------



## enterprise_fan

_............... I have drilled out all the limber holes (using a Dremal with a 1/16 drill bit, and putting two to four pilot holes depending on the size of the Limber hole)
_
I haven't gotten mine yet. I must be way down the list. 

Not being up on all the Navy terms, What are limber holes? Are they those group of holes running down the sides fore and aft or is it bow and stern? 

Why would you want to drill them out? Aren't they deep enough?


----------



## scotpens

enterprise_fan said:


> Not being up on all the Navy terms, What are limber holes? Are they those group of holes running down the sides fore and aft or is it bow and stern?
> 
> Why would you want to drill them out? Aren't they deep enough?


Drilling out the holes isn't strictly necessary, but it adds close-up realism. I refer you to the "Anyone building their Seaview yet?" thread, specifically posts 61 thru 64 (top of page 5).

Moderator: Would it be possible to consolidate the three main Moebius Seaview threads into a single thread titled "Building the Moebius Seaview"? Would make for a lot less confusion and back-and-forth switching.


----------



## John P

How can they be deep enough when they're supposed to be _holes_? 

I find it easier to grind them out from behind, btw, than to drill them from the outside:


----------



## Admiral Nelson

John P said:


> How can they be deep enough when they're supposed to be _holes_?
> 
> I find it easier to grind them out from behind, btw, than to drill them from the outside:


I did that on a Type VII Uboat and the plastic became paper thin. If you don't watch it you'll burn clear through.


----------



## djnick66

Admiral Nelson said:


> I did that on a Type VII Uboat and the plastic became paper thin. If you don't watch it you'll burn clear through.



I mentioned on Hyperscale the holes are backed by only thin pastic so if you did want to cut (or sand ) them out it should be pretty easy.


----------



## gareee

Yer making me want to start mine NOW! 

I'm waffling on waiting for the interior upgrade kit of not.


----------



## woof359

so do you have to glue the clear window panes into the nose section before you glue the nose section together?


----------



## fluke

Admiral Nelson said:


> I will do a lighting kit. I hope the bulbs are small enough that they can be replaced by sliding then in and out of the provided shaft for lighting. The lower flying sub bay can be snapped into place so those bulbs can be replaced no problem. Fiberoptic would work great on the fins.


*REPLACED????!!.....Are you using LED's??....LED's with the proper resistors will NEVER need to be REPLACED.*

*I sure hope that VODOO EFFECTS is using 20th century methods by now.*


----------



## scotpens

fluke said:


> *REPLACED????!!.....Are you using LED's??....LED's with the proper resistors will NEVER need to be REPLACED.*
> 
> *I sure hope that VODOO EFFECTS is using 20th century methods by now.*


Especially since this is the 21st century!


----------



## fluke

HA! I meant to say "AT LEAST using....." 
Look for this guys work also coming....if he can do what he did for PL Jupiter II seen in the *video* links below.... he also has plans for the LIS POD and Seaview! 

He's a local dude and his work is called called Space Circuits and he sales through Fuzznoggin' Creations and Strange Stuff Studios.

http://www.fuzznoggincreations.com/core.htm

http://www.strangestuffstudio.com/

The pic shows him with a PL Enterprise....and that is all LED's! no tubes or panels! He has also released a lighting kit for PL 1/350 refit.


----------



## John P

Admiral Nelson said:


> I did that on a Type VII Uboat and the plastic became paper thin. If you don't watch it you'll burn clear through.


Look how deep the limber holes molded.
You grind down (carefully) to juuuuust as you're about to break thru the holes, _leaving _a paper thickness, then clean them out with an X-Acto and file. The resulting plastic thickness equals the depth they were molded in, PLUS about a paper's thickness. Considering it was extra thick in that area to start with, you're still left with almost as much thickness as the main parts of, say, a 1/72 airplane model.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

First Lighting Tests.

Everything is pretty much all wired together. The Tail fins and Sail Light will also Function....


----------



## Admiral Nelson

There are no white LED's? I away's see folks use blue. Man that was a fast buildup!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Admiral Nelson said:


> There are no white LED's? I away's see folks use blue. Man that was a fast buildup!


 
No Sir , They are White LEDS. It's just the nature of the photo. Also the gloss blue floor is reflecting.I actually Like Regular Lamps, Mini Bulbs for a project like this, It would give it a nice Yellowish Look.

But they eventually burn out and are therefore Immpractical. The Build up is Still a while to actually complete. I just wanted an idea how the lighted Nose/Interior/etc.. Looked.


Regards,
BP


----------



## gareee

Very cool, and thanks for sharing. Does it look like regular leds will fit in the tail lights?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

gareee said:


> Very cool, and thanks for sharing. Does it look like regular leds will fit in the tail lights?


 
Possibly.
I may go another route. Working on that Now.:thumbsup:


----------



## DinoMike

I was considering running thin fiber optic bundles into the tail fins on my Seaview... that way I could run both tailfin lights off 1 LED.


----------



## John P

Anybody adding a ceiling?
Since I'm sitting mine on a high shelf, I'm worried what it'll look like thru the windows.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

John P said:


> Anybody adding a ceiling?
> Since I'm sitting mine on a high shelf, I'm worried what it'll look like thru the windows.


After I am finished with the interior, I plan on covering the ceiling with Clear styrene with a CLEAR frosted finish.

It will diffuse the lighting and prevent the eye from seeing un sightly wires etc..:thumbsup::thumbsup:

High Regards,

BP.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

John P said:


> Anybody adding a ceiling?
> Since I'm sitting mine on a high shelf, I'm worried what it'll look like thru the windows.


I doubt anyone has that good a vision. I guess you could make some support girders out of scrap and run them across the ceiling.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

DinoMike said:


> I was considering running thin fiber optic bundles into the tail fins on my Seaview... that way I could run both tailfin lights off 1 LED.


Great Idea.
I think I will be doing the same thing..

Now where did I put that Fiber Optic stuff????


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Where do you get fiber optic? Radio Shack?


----------



## Admiral Nelson

What paint did you use for upper and lower hull?


----------



## MartinHatfield

Admiral Nelson said:


> Where do you get fiber optic? Radio Shack?



I got a "crap-ton" of fiber optics a few months back when Wally world clearanced a bunch of those battery operated spray thingies. They had been in the toy department for some odd reason, and no-one bought them. So when they cleared out all of their model aisle they included the sprays with the rest. The were clearanced at $1.00 a piece. So I got all of them, ten total.


----------



## enterprise_fan

I am so jealous of you guys being able to work on your Seaview model kits.  :jest:

Hey Steve? I know that you were taking pre-orders on this kit for months and are sending them out as fast as you can. Care to tell us, the ones who ordered late, what month you are on? 

I fear that I am so far down the list that I will need a aqua lung real soon. 

The suspence is killing me.:freak:


----------



## Paulbo

John P said:


> Anybody adding a ceiling?
> Since I'm sitting mine on a high shelf, I'm worried what it'll look like thru the windows.





Admiral Nelson said:


> I doubt anyone has that good a vision. I guess you could make some support girders out of scrap and run them across the ceiling.


You mean something like this?









Of course this is just my paper positioning / sizing test for the Just an Illusion lighted interior kit, so please excuse the warped girders and inexact positioning. The final artwork includes a tabbed locating system and grooves to facilitate bending.

You can see more views of the ceiling upgrade at: http://modeling.paragrafix.com/Pages/Seaview/default.asp


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Fantastic for sure.:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Paulbo said:


> You mean something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course this is just my paper positioning / sizing test for the Just an Illusion lighted interior kit, so please excuse the warped girders and inexact positioning. The final artwork includes a tabbed locating system and grooves to facilitate bending.
> 
> You can see more views of the ceiling upgrade at: http://modeling.paragrafix.com/Pages/Seaview/default.asp


 

Looking very good!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: 
I commend you on your work.The nature of my Build is such,that I can also add the Stuff your offering!!!

Here's an I dea.
How about Re-Casting the viewport Windows?? They have the all to familiar "Fish Eye Effect". I plan on disgarding them.

Also do you guys have plans on making an Interior/Detail for the Tesky 8 window Conversion comming soon?(I Hope).

Any Ideas on prices for your aftermarket stuff??

Again, You can put me down for both Sets!!Seaview and Flying Sub!


----------



## bert model maker

BP, You are doing an OUTSTANDING job on your seaview, thanks for sharing !! great work.
Bert


----------



## John P

That'll work!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Another Pic of the Bow/Control room Lighting....


----------



## Paulbo

That looks super BP!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Paulbo said:


> That looks super BP!


 
Many Thanks Sir!

It will look EVEN BETTER with your Aftermarket Stuff!!! :thumbsup:Again I love those Ceiling Girders!!!!!

High Regards,
BP


----------



## gareee

Actually, I'm thinking the paper mock up stuff would be good enough for my model.

I'd like to see a "budget" hop up kit for the seaview with printable console "decals" the ceiling beams, and the fold up flying sub artwork.

Since they would all be printable, the images could be downloadable, and could also be very inexpensive for us as well.

I did something like that free for the polar lights cyclops diorama.. I redid the back window chariot decal with an actual image of the robot, and I recall it was quite popular, but then I didn't charge anything for it at all.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

What color paint did you use? I PM'd and asked in the post but I haven't had a reply.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Wow beatlepaul, that looks great!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Thanks Carson!!!

Ok. the color Paint I used Is Only Temporary. I am still digging up Info.

Real Simple..

For the Upper part of the Sub..

Testors #1233 Flat Light Aircraft Gray. I used this as my Primer and temporary Top Coat.

For the Bottom/Keel

Rust-Oleum's Painters Touch White Primer#1981830(Found at your local Home Depot!


Camouflage Gray , Is probably the Best choice for the Final Bottom /Keel Color. The final upper Hull Color is proving to be some what elusive(lol)


----------



## Carson Dyle

Merriman botched the restoration paint job on the 17-footer; the underside of the original FX miniature was grey, BUT... and I want to be PERFECTLY CLEAR ON THIS... it is my firm belief that the builder should paint his model ANY COLOR HE WISHES.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Carson Dyle said:


> Merriman botched the restoration paint job on the 17-footer; the underside of the original FX miniature was grey, BUT... and I want to be PERFECTLY CLEAR ON THIS... it is my firm belief that the builder should paint his model ANY COLOR HE WISHES.


Agreed Sir!:thumbsup:

I Based my Colors on what She Looked Like on Tv and In my Reference Photos, and again it's only My Opinion. I am Happy with Colors I chose, But like you Said Carson, "To Each his own" !!!

Most Important...*HAVE FUN:hat:*


----------



## djnick66

*Grey versus white*

At least some of the photos of the models look white. But then it could be a very very light grey...

I will probably use Tamiya's AS series spray can, Insignia White. Its "white" but not a pure white. Its off white enough to be the palest of greys. It won't look stark like pure white. Top will be Tamiya AS Ocean Grey. I like the way that one looks.

I will still probably pre-shade the hull with black paint through my airbrush so the aerosol coats have some shading to them.


----------



## Y3a

Where is there a color reference, or painting guide for the interior. I have NO TIME to buy VTTBOTS DVD sets and sit through them until Dec of 2018...


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Y3a said:


> Where is there a color reference, or painting guide for the interior. I have NO TIME to buy VTTBOTS DVD sets and sit through them until Dec of 2018...


 
Moebius Included a Color Guide in the Kit. Its Pretty Good.


----------



## DinoMike

My only question on that included guide is.... the front bulkhead of the flying sub is ALL aluminum color?

I knew the vents, light cages and port frames were... but wasn't the rest a darker color?


----------



## Admiral Nelson

I know one thing, someone HAS to do an air vent seeing as many episodes were filmed in one. What was really funny was the air vents also led to the ballast tanks.


----------



## lenmon

Mark everything looks great!!! the work you have done so far is impressive. I was over the Falcon's this weekend and I was able to see his Sub... beautiful. Thanks for the link. Wow, all this is new to me but I see my self dusting off my 12" Jupiter 2 and going to town on it like you guys. Get a hold of me, show me what you wanted to do. Lets get started. 
Batbrother 
Lenmon


----------



## Seaview

DinoMike said:


> My only question on that included guide is.... the front bulkhead of the flying sub is ALL aluminum color?
> 
> I knew the vents, light cages and port frames were... but wasn't the rest a darker color?


 
You are correct; for the Flying Sub, the window frame, top & bottom pin striping, topside docking ring and recessed area was "blue angel blue", the top hatch, rear panel, and port frames are aluminum, and the body, including the bottom docking ring and recessed area was a "blue angel yellow" or "school bus yellow" (which has a very minor orange tint to it). 
However, I would defer to Carson's expertise for the final word on that subject if I am remembering these incorrectly.


----------



## gareee

I've been having some interesting seaview thoughts...

12" figures would probably be perfect sized for customs of the various oversized monsters that plagued the seaview!

Silicon sealer is waterproof, as are leds..and should be aquarium safe... and aquarium bubblers could be used in an aquarium seaview for it's bubbling effects!

Wife's been wanting to justify a bigger aquarium.. hehee!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

lenmon said:


> Mark everything looks great!!! the work you have done so far is impressive. I was over the Falcon's this weekend and I was able to see his Sub... beautiful. Thanks for the link. Wow, all this is new to me but I see my self dusting off my 12" Jupiter 2 and going to town on it like you guys. Get a hold of me, show me what you wanted to do. Lets get started.
> Batbrother
> Lenmon


Thank you Sir and Welcome to the board!!!!:wave:

There are a lot of talented guys around here:thumbsup:

High Regards,
BP


----------



## John P

12" figures would be too small to replicate a 6-foot stuntman in a costume manhandling the 8-foot miniature.


----------



## Carson Dyle

beatlepaul said:


> I Based my Colors on what She Looked Like on Tv and In my Reference Photos, and again it's only My Opinion.


Well, there can be little doubt the FX production team intended the underside of the Seaview to read as "white" on screen -- just as they intended the Flying Sub to read as bright yellow (as opposed to yellowish-orange, which is how the FS miniature(s) were painted).

True story: I recently had the pleasure of meeting Bill Creber, who designed the Flying Sub. When I asked him if any particular type of standardized painting system had been used on the old 60's-era Fox shows he chuckled and, after a long pause, said, "Well... Irwin liked orange."

In other words, we are unlikely to ever know for certain the exact colors used on the original sets and miniatures. The best one can hope for is to make an educated guess based on available reference. Suffice it to say it's a pretty subjective process. 



beatlepaul said:


> Most Important...*HAVE FUN:hat:*


Here here!


----------



## djnick66

John P said:


> 12" figures would be too small to replicate a 6-foot stuntman in a costume manhandling the 8-foot miniature.


Thats where the dinky Aurora kit comes in handy...


----------



## gareee

djnick66 said:


> Thats where the dinky Aurora kit comes in handy...


Or using 18" figures.. art asylum did some very well articulated figures of rob zombie, alice cooper and a eddie zombie like guy, and tjhey can usually be found on ebay pretty cheap. I picked up a few extra alice coopers when they hit clearance prices at spencer's a few years ago.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Gentlemen.

I was watching the Extra Features on the Second Season Volume 1 last Night.I watched the Special Effects Footage.

After you get through footage of the Undersea Giant, and Crappy small Seaview, theres Footage of the 8' And 17'3" Miniature.

I don't have the ability to post screen Caps, and hopefully one of you guys does, However there is some Nice close up shots of the Eight footers color scheme on the main/upper hull:woohoo:

The sail and directly below till above the Limber holes is what looks like a very light grey.
Then a darker grey for the limber hole area, which then blends into a Medium Grey...
The footage of the 17' Sub on the surface appears to have the same colors.

So Again if one of you fellers with your ability to post these pics, I think they would be benificial to us!!:thumbsup:

High Regards,

BP


----------



## djnick66

I might as well mention this detail here....

On the missile deck pieces there are raised rails that run up and down the deck between the hatches, going fore and aft... those are supposed to be ropes.


----------



## BigGuido

*Got my kit & waiting for aftermarket goodies!*

This is the kit of the Seaview I always dreamed of as a kid. Being older than dirt, I actually saw some of the original run shows back in the day. I clearly remember "Jonah and the Whale" with my older brother on his small B&W portable TV after coming home from eating out at a Howard Johnson's with my family. I think I may have been 4 at the time. Anyhoo, I am definitely waiting for the after-market lighting kit and some sort of sound kit solution. I would also be interested in an after-market kit that allowed you to make the doors to the Flying Sub bay operational - that would truly rock! I did a FS Bay mod to the Polar Lights Kit using one of the resin four-window mod kits that came out at the time and it turned out okay, but I'm wanting something that really works. I have no experience in electronics so my mods are of the static nature. I would really love to see a kit made that allowed for lights, sound and the opening and closing of the Flying Sub bay doors.


----------



## Y3a

beatlepaul said:


> Moebius Included a Color Guide in the Kit. Its Pretty Good.



Seems I didn't get one in my kit. 

I did get all the other stuff. RC offer, History, basic build instructions.

I'm gonna use the photos of that 1/48th scale model.. I hope it's accurate.

I know whats going on with the exterior, but the interior!!!!!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Y3a said:


> Seems I didn't get one in my kit.
> 
> I did get all the other stuff. RC offer, History, basic build instructions.
> 
> I'm gonna use the photos of that 1/48th scale model.. I hope it's accurate.
> 
> I know whats going on with the exterior, but the interior!!!!!


Hey Y,
I may be able to help you out.

Do you have a Fax Machine?? I could Fax you the color chart.
PM me the # And I'll send it to you!!


----------



## djnick66

Y3a said:


> Seems I didn't get one in my kit.
> 
> I did get all the other stuff. RC offer, History, basic build instructions.
> 
> I'm gonna use the photos of that 1/48th scale model.. I hope it's accurate.
> 
> I know whats going on with the exterior, but the interior!!!!!


Its on the back of the Invisible Man ad.... You might have overlooked it there.


----------



## RogueJ

BigGuido,
Older than dirt huh? I remember going to the theater to see Voyage on it's first release. Saw it several times. Remember this was a time when you could ride your bike uptown, park it and going and watch a move all day long. No lock on the bike and it would still be there hours later. I later remember seeing the promos for the Voyage series on ABC Monday nights at 7:30 pm. Then all those first run episodes. Don't think I don't feel too old.  Now if I only had my model...not like I don't have anything else to build.

Rogue

btw: movie ticket price then....75¢


----------



## woof359

*limber holes*

guess being a farm boy i dont know what limber holes are....vents?


----------



## scotpens

woof359 said:


> guess being a farm boy i dont know what limber holes are....vents?


They're the openings along the sides of the flat-topped external deck structure. On real submarines, they allow seawater to enter and flood the space between the pressure hull and the deck when the sub dives. Go to the top of page 5 in the "Anyone building thier Seaview yet?" thread.

Maybe we need a separate "What the bloody hell are limber holes?" thread.


----------



## Y3a

djnick66 said:


> Its on the back of the Invisible Man ad.... You might have overlooked it there.



ZACKLY what I did. I don't know HOW I could have been distracted, I hd opened my Seaview kit 30 seconds earlier.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Just a quick update Gentlemen.

Camouflage Gray Is the color I am going with for the Bottom/Keel of my Sub. NOT WHITE.The final color of the Main Hull is proving to be somewhat elusive.

I am still trying to track the colors down for that. And as Carson already pointed out, These are the colors I am using, and I am no expert On the Colors of Seaview. 

More Pics and updates soon(I hope).

Regards, 
BP


----------



## F91

Good for you BP, I'm going with the same for the lower hull, but intermediate blue for the upper hull. Mine will be Unique, and a minor irritant for some.


----------



## gareee

I've thought of doing mine in light blue as well. That's the way I always saw it as a kid, and how I remember it.. and look at all the dvd box art.. all light blue.


----------



## F91

Shhhhhhhh!!!!! Careful, you'll wake them!!!!


----------



## Carson Dyle

`s all good. :thumbsup:


----------



## Admiral Nelson

F91 said:


> Shhhhhhhh!!!!! Careful, you'll wake them!!!!


Too late. I just heard a foot hit the floor. Run for your lives!!!:freak:


----------



## F91

R'uh R'oh!!!


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Before the paint monsters get here, what color is the Seaview on the Moebius box?


----------



## djnick66

The painting (not the best color guide) is something close to overall gull grey or camouflage grey.


----------



## modelgeek

How about Silver Metal Flake with Blue and WHite Ghost flames and chrome trim?


----------



## gareee

Hmmm maybe a metallic light blue? (Actually I did a killer new gen enterprise using a gray primer base coat, a light silver top coat, and hen a dusting of metallic blue on top of that. oddly enough, the color looks just like what we see in the tv show, even though technically it was inaccurate.
.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

modelgeek said:


> How about Silver Metal Flake with Blue and WHite Ghost flames and chrome trim?


Gives me an idea. How about a new show called "Pimp my Sub"?


----------



## gareee

The aftermarket kits are already doing that.. LOL!


----------



## Rick Teskey

*Seaview color*

With the 50th anniversery comming up maybe you should paint her gold!
Rick
P.S. Irwin Allen is dead so if yopu go with grey automotive primer and flat white on the bottom he won't roll over in his grave
Rick


----------



## Captain Han Solo

OK gentlemen, here is a pic of my Final Upper Hull Color.

First let me say, I decided on this color based on several Different Sources. I am by no means an Expert on what color the 17'3" Seaview was.

Nor am I saying this is the Color you should go with. To me the detective work involved With making models like this is Half the fun. I have had the Pleasure of Communicating with several Gentlemen who 'DO Know what she looked like". One in particular I trust the most.

Anyhoo here she is....





And to compare to this Surface shot of the 17 footer...


----------



## djnick66

Admiral Nelson said:


> Gives me an idea. How about a new show called "Pimp my Sub"?


That reminds me of my second Aurora Seaview kit from the early 70s. I was probabaly around 10... My dad had got me building models when I was about 7. Anyway, I had built the Aurora Creature from the Black Lagoon and my mom was going to Woolco or some place like that, so I asked her for a can of Testors or Pactra leaf green spray paint. Anyway, she got me Testors Lime Gold Metallic. Man thats one butt ugly color. So I had a Lime Gold Creature (with red paint trim for blood). The next week I wanted to paint my Seaview... so it got the same Lime Gold Metallic finish. EWWWWWWWWWWW. Some years later I did repaint it dark grey and white before taking it on a vacation trip to Crystal River (where it sank). Somewhere in the clear, cold springwater is a Seaview...


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Ok Paul, give us the lowdown on your three colors for the hull, keel, ballast vent color and flying sub colors.


----------



## JohnGuard

yeah paul! what colors did you use and please give us the lowdown on your lighting!
it looks awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## xsavoie

Oooooh.Very nice Paul.The lighted interior really adds style to the kit.Could even be used as a giant night light.:thumbsup:


----------



## F91

Wow!! I've probably canoed over your sunken Seaview! Great story!



djnick66 said:


> That reminds me of my second Aurora Seaview kit from the early 70s. I was probabaly around 10... My dad had got me building models when I was about 7. Anyway, I had built the Aurora Creature from the Black Lagoon and my mom was going to Woolco or some place like that, so I asked her for a can of Testors or Pactra leaf green spray paint. Anyway, she got me Testors Lime Gold Metallic. Man thats one butt ugly color. So I had a Lime Gold Creature (with red paint trim for blood). The next week I wanted to paint my Seaview... so it got the same Lime Gold Metallic finish. EWWWWWWWWWWW. Some years later I did repaint it dark grey and white before taking it on a vacation trip to Crystal River (where it sank). Somewhere in the clear, cold springwater is a Seaview...


----------



## gareee

What's scary, is I think MY seaview was also that same lime gold metallic. I remember having a spray can of it, but don't recall at all why I painted it that color.

A friend had a tar lined back yard pond, and we used to play with it in the water there.

I remember the end of it's day, I sawed off the front and back sections and joined them together for some reason, making it more like a 1 seater underwater 50's hot rod. And then we discovered M-80 firecrackers, and they fit inside it quite well.....


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Admiral Nelson said:


> Ok Paul, give us the lowdown on your three colors for the hull, keel, ballast vent color and flying sub colors.


 
For the Flying Sub version Seaview, we have a real problem in that whatever the paint colors Fox used 2nd through fourth seasons were, at best to be described as "fugitive." One just can't exactly pin them down without having the original in one's hand. I had attempted to match those colors on the 8 footer nose section while it was briefly in my posession some 15 years or so ago with no luck. No pantone color came close and mixing colors in "Floquil" proved useless. I DID TRY! Incidentally, the four footer in F.S. version was a plain neutral gray when I saw it in December 1975.
What I can tell you is this: The top color is a brownish/slightly greenish grey. This is called from what I understand, a "mired shift" color. No true hue in particular. It changes drastically with the type of light source. That was compounded by the limber hole "plates" the ballast slots on the deck sides as well as all details, hatches doors, etc., and all shading, (there was a lot more of that than a lot of people seem to realize) in a darker and slightly greener shade of grey. It really was most unnattractive. It looked as though it was basically aircraft camoflage but in darker shades. The Model Master SAC colors somewhat darkened may be closer than anything else that I can say.


.. From an E-Mail to me by *************...

Again, this is the colors and way I chose to do it. No doubt others will stick to their "Light Ghost Grey". IMHO, Paul is THE expert on all things Seaview.
Thats the colors I tried to replicate.

High Regards,
BP


----------



## enterprise_fan

BP now I'm really confused. When the model was first announced the top two questions were;

1) "What color do we paint the underside?" 
2) "What color do we paint the topside?"

When th sub came out we have;

1) "What shade of light gray is the keel?"
2) "Do we use blue-gray or medium gray for the main body of the sub?"
3) "What is the best way to drill out the limber holes?"

Now we have a forth question to add to the above questions

4) "Is the "flatbed" a different color than the main body?

Did I miss a questions?


----------



## gareee

Actually exterior colors are kinda no brainers. Painting the interior control room will take a lot more time, and more intel.

I have so old wood grain cupboard liner I'll probably use for the wooden panelled walls inside.


----------



## bert model maker

I finally got my seaview in Reno, can't wait to open her up !


----------



## Trek Ace

I will be painting mine with the addition of appropriate shading and weathering on the upper and lower surfaces like what was apparent on the studio models.

Also, one should be very careful when handling the rear section of the hull, as those tiny handholds on the top are very delicate and easy to dislodge or even break off. I broke one off by accident while working on opening the limber holes. I still have it, but it is proving to be a bear to reattach, so I will be replacing it with a small loop of similar-sized wire. FYI.


----------



## scotpens

gareee said:


> Actually exterior colors are kinda no brainers. Painting the interior control room will take a lot more time, and more intel.


Check out this site -- it's chock-full of DVD caps of the control room and other interior sets.

http://www.robertdowdell.com/VTTBOTS/




gareee said:


> I have so old wood grain cupboard liner I'll probably use for the wooden panelled walls inside.


Wouldn't the full-size woodgrain pattern be WAY out of scale?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Ok Guys. More food for thought.

Check out the colors in this first pic, used with permission by *************...

It shows the original 8' Nose (far left)with two copies. That ugly brownish color is the original color...



And a view of the actual Under side Color...



Cleary the underside is a "concrete Gray"

Many thanks to ************* for the Pics!

High Regards,
BP


----------



## F91

Looks bluish.


----------



## scotpens

*Sorry, just can't resist the obvious. . .*

[IMG-LEFT]http://www.beatles.com/hub/gfx/articles/yeloSub/The%20Chief%20Blue%20Meanie.jpg[/IMG-LEFT]




F91 said:


> Looks bluish.


Funny, you don't look bluish.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## djnick66

*Good episode for colors and details*

The episode "And Five of Us are Left" has many really good shots all in one show. You see the 8 and 4 window miniatures, a lot of the Flying sub, including the bottom hatch and some odd detail on the lower hull, the Seaview's control room, forward viewing area, crash screens, radio room, missile control panel, etc. 

A couple things I noticed were the wooden paneling on the forward side walls stops short of the front of the hull, and there is a grey spacer between the wood and the front girder/window area. The vertical pillars supporting the girders are wood finish on the control room side. The Flying Sub bay back wall and girders looks nothing like the kit detail. Its totally different.


----------



## jbond

The Flying Sub bay walls look different because there is no full control room over the bay in that miniature as far as I know--the door mechanisms and floodlights designed to light the bay take up all that space. The kit is designed to fit all that stuff into the space, get the control room butted up against the windows in a way that matches the set and still leave room for the Flying Sub bay below it.

If you look at the photos too the floodlight is mounted directly BEHIND the Flying Sub bay--that still makes me think the back wall of the bay was translucent unless that light is disconnected in the photo and was originally positioned above the bay--the orange light "hot spot" looks like it's in the upper middle of the back wall with the opaque girder detail blocked by it. On the other hand the Flying Sub miniature does appear lit from above, albeit without any of the orange look of the bay walls...


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Where there handrails on the 17' model? If not I'll remove them from mine. I'm looking at pictures of it and I don't see any.


----------



## djnick66

jbond said:


> The Flying Sub bay walls look different because there is no full control room over the bay in that miniature as far as I know--...
> If you look at the photos too the floodlight is mounted directly BEHIND the Flying Sub bay--that still makes me think the back wall of the bay was translucent unless that light is disconnected in the photo and was originally positioned above the bay ...



In the show you cant really see the top of the bay, but the back in the episode I mentioned is clearly visible. Its not translucent IMHO. There is a lot of girder and structural detail clearly visible and its just a different design than the kit (more complex/detailed).

Thats a pretty big light in the miniature nose today... whether it is original, in its original location, etc... who knows. At some point that nose could have been on display with a lamp added.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Ok Guys.

Here are more Fun Pics, Used by permission from *************..

Here is a side by side comparison of the foor footer cast in fiberglass directly from the non-distorting epoxy/fiberglass molds of the restored wood master. THOSE are the correct feature and first season colors! Next, Moebius and bottom, at the exact moment the auction gavel fell at Fox in May 1971, the 17 footer. An exceptionally rare dead on side view from a distance so there's virtually no keystoning within the resultingly grainy image. Sale price: $400.00, say $6,000-7,000 today.


----------



## Paulbo

Beatle - do you happen to have those photographs in high enough resolution so that you could super-impose the Moebius over the filming "miniature"? I think that would make for a really neat comparison if, for example, you scaled them so the height of the 2 were the same or the length of the 2 were the same.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Paulbo said:


> Beatle - do you happen to have those photographs in high enough resolution so that you could super-impose the Moebius over the filming "miniature"? I think that would make for a really neat comparison if, for example, you scaled them so the height of the 2 were the same or the length of the 2 were the same.


 
I think(I could be wrong), That they are pretty much In scale to each other in that Pic.

However Let me see what I can do.I know what you mean, Kinda post the pics on Top of each other.

BP


----------



## woof359

MAN, just open my kit, i knew it was big but untill you open the box and hold the hull in your hand you just cant grasp how big it is from pictures on the web. (-:

i noticed that the parts do fit together nicly, some real thought went into eengineering this to make it an eays build.

BRAVO!!!


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Paul, what was the final color you decided on? What is the color along the ballast holes?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Admiral Nelson said:


> Paul, what was the final color you decided on? What is the color along the ballast holes?


 

What I can tell you is this: The top color is a brownish/slightly greenish grey. This is called from what I understand, a "mired shift" color. No true hue in particular. It changes drastically with the type of light source. That was compounded by the limber hole "plates" the ballast slots on the deck sides as well as all details, hatches doors, etc., and all shading, (there was a lot more of that than a lot of people seem to realize) in a darker and slightly greener shade of grey. It really was most unnattractive. It looked as though it was basically aircraft camoflage but in darker shades. The Model Master SAC colors somewhat darkened may be closer than anything else that I can say.


.. From an E-Mail to me by *************...

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
BP


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Paulbo said:


> Beatle - do you happen to have those photographs in high enough resolution so that you could super-impose the Moebius over the filming "miniature"? I think that would make for a really neat comparison if, for example, you scaled them so the height of the 2 were the same or the length of the 2 were the same.


 
Here you go Sir.....
Enjoy!!!



This is a quality photo of the Moebius and 17' Seaviewmerged together.


----------



## Y3a

looks like one or more may have been enlarged, or reduced non-proportionally.


----------



## gareee

Nope, i can confirm there ARE differences. I used the sail as my "centering point.. looks like he used the nose.


----------



## Paulbo

Thanks, Beatle. It's what I thought looking at the side-by-side images (well, top-by-bottom) but it's nice to see the overlay. Hmmm - now the question is what, if anything, to do with this information...


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Paulbo said:


> Thanks, Beatle. It's what I thought looking at the side-by-side images (well, top-by-bottom) but it's nice to see the overlay. Hmmm - now the question is what, if anything, to do with this information...


.... Like I said(I think), all for fun.
Personally, I like to get as much info about a Modeling subject I can. To Me it adds to the Fun in the Building process.

Which is what it's all about!:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Y3a said:


> looks like one or more may have been enlarged, or reduced non-proportionally.


Here are the images independent of one another.
Please feel free to do your own overlay....
The 17'2"...



Moebius Sub...


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Another Pic of my Final Exterior Paint.

The Mobius supplied Clear Window Parts are temporary. They cause the Fish Bowl Effect. I'll replace it with Clear styrene.
Now if you don't light the interior, you could use the Supplied Glass, However with all the work I will be doing on the inside, I want to see it!!


----------



## JohnGuard

how did you light the interiour?


----------



## SUNGOD

Now that looks coooool!!!!! I wasn't going to light mine when I get it but I think I've changed my mind.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

JohnGuard said:


> how did you light the interiour?


I had some extra LEDS that were left over from other Projects. I strung about 8-10 together.

I don't like the Bluish tint it gives, so I may do something else.:thumbsup:



Regards,
BP


----------



## Y3a

Do you have the Moebius Seaview without the other sub in back?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Y3a said:


> Do you have the Moebius Seaview without the other sub in back?


----------



## bert model maker

BeatlePaul or anyone working on their seaview. Bob perovich wants to develop a correct paint scheme for the interior of the seaview ( like he did for the PL Jupiter 2 ) he has a question and here it is

"How big are the interior details? Are they large enough for credible painting?Can the interior cabin be removed for viewing once the model is complete"


----------



## Y3a

BeatlePaul.....

I was able to take a picture of MY Seaview at the same angle as the 17 footer...

Other than the height of the conning tower they are the same Windows, fins, flukes... everything. Photoshop was being a pain so I did the stuff in MS Word, where I could better scale the Moebius photo.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Any chance for a ballast vent slots done on photoetch? The 4 slot bases are suppose to be slightly raised anyway.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> BeatlePaul or anyone working on their seaview. Bob perovich wants to develop a correct paint scheme for the interior of the seaview ( like he did for the PL Jupiter 2 ) he has a question and here it is
> 
> "How big are the interior details? Are they large enough for credible painting?Can the interior cabin be removed for viewing once the model is complete"


Hi Bert.:wave:

I am going to start SuperDetailing the interior control room next.
I guess if you don't cement the botom area/Flying Sub bay to the sub, You would be able to remove it...

However, I am lighting/have lit the interior and have replaced the kit windows with my own.
You get a pretty good view of the interior.
I am working on a interior paint scheme that I will be using, if the guys are interested, I'll post it here when I am done.:wave:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

A couple more pics of the final exterior color in Natural Sunlight.

Notice how the color changes in different light settings....


----------



## bert model maker

WOW OUTSTANDING BP !! did you add navigation lights to the sail or are those already supplied with the kit ?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> WOW OUTSTANDING BP !! did you add navigation lights to the sail or are those already supplied with the kit ?


 
Great Eye Bert!!!!:thumbsup:

Yes I added the Navigation Lights to the Sail, but they are not the clear ones that came with the kit.
They are my own,which hopefully, all goes well will give the right scale/look when I light them up.

High Regards,
BP


----------



## Admiral Nelson

I screwed up one of my vent holes and opened up too wide. What's the best way to repair it?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Admiral Nelson said:


> I screwed up one of my vent holes and opened up too wide. What's the best way to repair it?


 
Hmmnnn, It Depends. You could use strip Stryene. Kind of layer it on then Sand it untill it blends in.

Hope this helps? 

BP


----------



## solex227

above is one solution can we see a photo of the area ?


----------



## djnick66

Admiral Nelson said:


> I screwed up one of my vent holes and opened up too wide. What's the best way to repair it?


I would shore it up with some Evergreen strip styrene and then fill in the gaps with a little filler. Even if you have to enlarge the hole a little...


----------



## gareee

Nav lights on the Sail? Those the things that look like windows?


----------



## Admiral Nelson

gareee said:


> Nav lights on the Sail? Those the things that look like windows?


The navigation lights. One green, one red. Tells another ship what where you are in relation to starboard or port. Clear lights are rear or stern. The "windows" are called deadlights. They aren't on the FS Seaview.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

djnick66 said:


> I would shore it up with some Evergreen strip styrene and then fill in the gaps with a little filler. Even if you have to enlarge the hole a little...


That's what I'll do. The last holes the bit got away from me and it was too late. I don't like going from behind and sanding the holes as the plastic can get hot and warp if you aren't careful.


----------



## Ronster

Once the limber holes are opened up, there is a lot of "space" to see inside the hull. How did you hide all of this? I was thinking of adding some plastic sheet on the inside about 2mm from the holes. Another thought is to add some model rocket tubing to represent the ballast tanks. Ron


----------



## gareee

Admiral Nelson said:


> The navigation lights. One green, one red. Tells another ship what where you are in relation to starboard or port. Clear lights are rear or stern. The "windows" are called deadlights. They aren't on the FS Seaview.


Thanks. I'll probably add them as well, since there's not a whole lot to light, and I remember them from the show, model accuracy or not. I just want what I recall from the show, so mine will be an idealized version.


----------



## scotpens

Ronster said:


> Once the limber holes are opened up, there is a lot of "space" to see inside the hull. How did you hide all of this? I was thinking of adding some plastic sheet on the inside about 2mm from the holes. Another thought is to add some model rocket tubing to represent the ballast tanks. Ron


On a real submarine, the space under the deck superstructure is open to the sea and fills with water when submerged. What you would see behind the limber holes is the curved upper surface of the outer hull. Since the Seaview's hull has a constant circular cross-section for most of its length, adding curved sheet plastic to represent the top of the hull should be fairly easy.


----------



## bert model maker

are there windows or viewports at the front of the sail as is on the PL seaview ? I don't see any on this one.


----------



## Capt. Krik

model maker said:


> are there windows or viewports at the front of the sail as is on the PL seaview ? I don't see any on this one.


The movie version of the Seaview had windows in the sail. When the model was rebuilt for the second season of the TV series the windows disappeared.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Ronster said:


> Once the limber holes are opened up, there is a lot of "space" to see inside the hull. How did you hide all of this? I was thinking of adding some plastic sheet on the inside about 2mm from the holes. Another thought is to add some model rocket tubing to represent the ballast tanks. Ron


I scratch built a "Pressure Hull"

I used Sheet styrene curved it and glued it in. I first painted it Black, Then Silver then the final Hull color to prevent Light leaks.


BP


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> are there windows or viewports at the front of the sail as is on the PL seaview ? I don't see any on this one.


No Bert.

The "dead lights" are only on the Movie/First season 8 window Seaview.


----------



## gareee

Looks like I need to add the Deadlights and front sail windows as well to my version then.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

gareee said:


> Looks like I need to add the Deadlights and front sail windows as well to my version then.


Dead lights and front sail windows are the same thing.

They ARE NOT on the Flying Sub version of Seaview.

Again, they are only on the 8 window sub.


BP


----------



## gareee

Ok, then I'll add the left and right light, and the front deadlights as well.

Many of us don't have any nautical lingo education at all, and that makes it difficult to understand what people are talking about, unless they also explain that as well when they post.

I had to read the "limber hole" posts over quite a few times, trying to figure out what the heck they were talking about.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

gareee said:


> Ok, then I'll add the left and right light, and the front deadlights as well.
> 
> Many of us don't have any nautical lingo education at all, and that makes it difficult to understand what people are talking about, unless they also explain that as well when they post.
> 
> I had to read the "limber hole" posts over quite a few times, trying to figure out what the heck they were talking about.


No Problem.

I believe you want to add the Left and right Marker Lights. Only.

Front deadlights are Windows in front on the sail, again 8 window version only.


----------



## djnick66

gareee said:


> Ok, then I'll add the left and right light, and the front deadlights as well.


The deadlights are the windows that SHOULDNT be there... and the kit has the side marker lights already so there is nothing to add...


----------



## JohnGuard

i gotta say how impressed i am of all the little details you guys are seeing on both film and tv versions. i mean you guys are catching every little thing!


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Being fans since childhood and watching every episode 100's of time tend to help.


----------



## bert model maker

beatlepaul said:


> No Bert.
> 
> The "dead lights" are only on the Movie/First season 8 window Seaview.


Thanks BP. I was wondering about that, this makes it better then as I like the clean look of the sail without ! How are you going to display your F/S ? beside or under the F/S bay ?


----------



## Argonaut

Admiral Nelson said:


> Being fans since childhood and watching every episode 100's of time tend to help.


This is where a mis-spent youth comes in handy!!:freak:


----------



## WarpeD

beatlepaul said:


> I had some extra LEDS that were left over from other Projects. I strung about 8-10 together.
> 
> I don't like the Bluish tint it gives, so I may do something else.:thumbsup:


These may be the white LED's you're looking for....

http://www.theledlight.com/5mmwhleds.html


----------



## JohnGuard

Argonaut said:


> This is where a mis-spent youth comes in handy!!:freak:


which is better, a mis-spent youth or a mis-spent adulthood?


----------



## starseeker

I just ordered mine today so I haven't seen one of these in real life yet. Tell me, do you think the main windows are a little too high up on the nose of the sub or is that just a photo artifact? What do you think about the position and length of the sonar domes? And could you tell me, what is the outside diameter of the main hull? I don't get to see mine until my birthday or Christmas, and I'm dying for details about her. Looking forward to following your thread. Thanks for starting it!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Guys, here is a pic of my interior Lighting Adjusted to, I hope, better reflect the full size Miniatures Lighting.
You will notice I left the main searchlight and Belly Lights The same...

However the interior lighting is warmer, with the Original Leds I had still there..

Next up I need to tie the Sail and Tail Lighting in..


----------



## starseeker

That is a beautiful build of one of my all time favorite subjects! Wow!
Somehow I must have done something to my browser as I started reading this thread, as I missed seeing most of the thread until after I posted a little while ago. After seeing the superimposed shots of the Moebius and the 17', I still have the same questions. The shot of the 17' does appear to be from a nice long distance away but the shot of the Moebius seems to be centered about 2/3 of the way along the ship. The nose is definitely seen from a slight behind angle. So I'm not sure that the super-imposed version actually proves that there are any differences from the "real" miniature. I have to admit, your photo above, if a little poorer in quality and with the addition of a couple of wires, could pass for a screen grab from the DVD. 
Over on Hobbytalk
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=219645
I just reposted my Seaview plans from 2 years ago. Can't find the original thread there anymore so I provided the briefest of summaries about the drawing of these. Unfortunately it is a large sheet and I have a small scanner so some printing and cutting and pasting will be required if you want to see the whole thing. 
Again, nice work!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Different lighting..side by side..


----------



## starseeker

You look like you have nailed those colors. I was just wondering how anything so dark on the surface could look so light under water, even if it was lit with a 10 billion watt klieg light, yet obviously it can. Again, your Seaview is brilliant!
I have no idea where I downloaded this from, but it shows not too well a plainer grey top color of the bridge plus a contrasting color that I was going to use for the bottom of the planes and hull. I wonder if Fox was making any WW2 movies at the time of the Voyage movie? I can't see them mixing an obscure paint chade just for the Seaview and the grey blue green combination sounds vaguely RLM to me.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

starseeker said:


> You look like you have nailed those colors. I was just wondering how anything so dark on the surface could look so light under water, even if it was lit with a 10 billion watt klieg light, yet obviously it can. Again, your Seaview is brilliant!
> I have no idea where I downloaded this from, but it shows not too well a plainer grey top color of the bridge plus a contrasting color that I was going to use for the bottom of the planes and hull. I wonder if Fox was making any WW2 movies at the time of the Voyage movie? I can't see them mixing an obscure paint chade just for the Seaview and the grey blue green combination sounds vaguely RLM to me.


Thanks for the Kind words Sir. I appreciate and am humbled by it.

That Image is from the Feature Film.

It is the flying Bridge of the 8 window Seaview. The 8 window Seaview Is Painted DIFFERENTLY than our Four Window versions.
And believe it or not, you can get the correct colors much easier for that version.

High Regards,
BP


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Another Update Guys..

I have lit up the Sail and Tail Lights...





Many thanks to My bud Falcon Designs for the technical Help:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## JohnGuard

BEATLEPAUL!!!! SERIOUSLY!!

write out how you built and lit your Seaview and mail me them to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i want to shamelessly copy you!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

JohnGuard said:


> BEATLEPAUL!!!! SERIOUSLY!!
> 
> write out how you built and lit your Seaview and mail me them to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> i want to shamelessly copy you!


I sincerely thank you Sir.:thumbsup:

I wanted to capture the "Vintage/classic" Lighting effect Fox used on all their miniatures back in the 1960s. Including andMost importantly, Voyage To The Bottom Of the Sea.

It's"Scaled" Lighting. I think I will be putting Seaview in a Diorama of sorts.


----------



## MonsterModelMan

Awesome work BeatlePaul! I've really enjoyed watching this come together and it inspires me to give it a try. Now...when does the book come out with how to wire the Moebius Seaview? I certainly would like to know how you did it and what supplies you used and how to get them...if you'd like...you can send me an e-mail also on how to get mine kick started! I have NEVER put lighting into a model before so this would certainly be a first for me. Any tips you can send would be a great help!

MMM


----------



## kit-junkie

We could use a thread on lighting. I have a Seaview coming and a big Titanic model. Both would benefit form lighting. Wait... Didn't Fluke post something a while back?


----------



## MonsterModelMan

That's just the type of information that would go GREAT as a sticky at the top of this forum...lighting interior models. Let me know if Flukes thread has any of the how to get started info and how to do it..battery or 12V stuff too! I haven't located it yet...

MMM


----------



## kit-junkie

This link has a wealth of information on LEDs for hobbyists:
http://led.linear1.org/

I'm looking up more.


----------



## falcondesigns

It is looking great,beatlepaul!Great talking to you the other day.alexander


----------



## Captain Han Solo

falcondesigns said:


> It is looking great,beatlepaul!Great talking to you the other day.alexander


 
It was my pleasure Sir. I learned a lot!!

BP


----------



## Captain Han Solo

MonsterModelMan said:


> Awesome work BeatlePaul! I've really enjoyed watching this come together and it inspires me to give it a try. Now...when does the book come out with how to wire the Moebius Seaview? I certainly would like to know how you did it and what supplies you used and how to get them...if you'd like...you can send me an e-mail also on how to get mine kick started! I have NEVER put lighting into a model before so this would certainly be a first for me. Any tips you can send would be a great help!
> 
> MMM


Thanks for the Kind words Sir.:thumbsup:

Ok, I am not finished Yet. I have more Plans for this Boat. I will be More than Happy to share whatever Knowledge I have with you guys.

I plan on making the Radar mast Rotate as well, and some cool Ideas for the Flying Sub, and Sub Bay....

I am by no means an electronic expert. I just do a lot of Detective work!!


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Can you show us the wiring, switch and bulbs you used? I hope it's not a state secret.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

By the by, when are all the lighting kits suppose to be ready?


----------



## MonsterModelMan

Cherry Hill NJ.....heck...I can just come over and see it in person for myself! I live right in the next town over from you! YIKES!!!!

MMM


----------



## bert model maker

BP, How much detailing of the interior do you have yet to do ?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> BP, How much detailing of the interior do you have yet to do ?


I am doing some research on what the Exact coloring is. Then going from there.
I also Plan on Lighting up several display screens, add figures Etc...



BP.


----------



## bert model maker

so you haven't sealed your seaview up then ? I counted 8 figures in my parts bags when i opened mine, i didn't think there would be that many.


----------



## solex227

model maker said:


> so you haven't sealed your seaview up then ? I counted 8 figures in my parts bags when i opened mine, i didn't think there would be that many.



I thought I counted 6 in my box? hummmm? in any case I wish I had a few more to look like I have a full crew in stead of a skeleton crew.


----------



## Admiral Nelson

Admiral Nelson said:


> Can you show us the wiring, switch and bulbs you used? I hope it's not a state secret.


Sigh....


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> so you haven't sealed your seaview up then ? I counted 8 figures in my parts bags when i opened mine, i didn't think there would be that many.


 
That's correct Bert.
I have not sealed her up Yet. Getting info on exact colors and such...


BP


----------



## bert model maker

solex227 said:


> I thought I counted 6 in my box? hummmm? in any case I wish I had a few more to look like I have a full crew in stead of a skeleton crew.


I counted 6 then found 2 more loose in the bag.


----------



## bert model maker

beatlepaul said:


> That's correct Bert.
> I have not sealed her up Yet. Getting info on exact colors and such...
> 
> 
> BP


The painted interior will really stand out. I wonder what the upcoming decals (if any ) will be like ?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> The painted interior will really stand out. I wonder what the upcoming decals (if any ) will be like ?


I have to say my interior is pretty much painted up. I used my dvds for reference.But want to double check on things.

I just wantto make sure of some things, and possibley replace somethings as well.


----------



## solex227

model maker said:


> I counted 6 then found 2 more loose in the bag.


going home to check might be in bag, I didnt really pay attention 
thanks


----------



## AJ-1701

What a great build!!! :thumbsup:

It certainly provides insperation for doing mine albeit with my good but limited skills


----------



## bert model maker

beatlepaul said:


> I have to say my interior is pretty much painted up. I used my dvds for reference.But want to double check on things.
> 
> I just wantto make sure of some things, and possibley replace somethings as well.


BP, have you painted your wall panels yet or just the flooring deck ? You sure made quick work of getting it out of the box & looking good. I was looking at the color paint guide that came with the kit, but not sure how accurate they are. What are you going to do with your windows ? keep the ones that came with the kit, or, make new ones ? I keep reading about the "fish bowl " effect. Thats what happened with my PL J-2. I detailed the interior and coated the supplied window with a good dip in future and have a very clear window that gives a distortion view of the interior. I am not sure if it is the window itself OR, the future causing this. How bad IS the "fishbowl" effect with seaviews front window ?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> BP, have you painted your wall panels yet or just the flooring deck ? You sure made quick work of getting it out of the box & looking good. I was looking at the color paint guide that came with the kit, but not sure how accurate they are. What are you going to do with your windows ? keep the ones that came with the kit, or, make new ones ? I keep reading about the "fish bowl " effect. Thats what happened with my PL J-2. I detailed the interior and coated the supplied window with a good dip in future and have a very clear window that gives a distortion view of the interior. I am not sure if it is the window itself OR, the future causing this. How bad IS the "fishbowl" effect with seaviews front window ?


 
Hi Bert.
Wow, GOOD questions there..... here goes......

Yes, I painted the control room panels based on my reference pics and the DVDS themselves. I just need to "tweak" a few things.
The color guide supplied with the kit should be regarded as a general guide, watch the DVDS, and take notes, thats what I did BEFORE the kit actually came out.

I am NOT keeping The view port windows That came with the Kit. The Fishbowl effect is bad..If you decide to light the boat. If you don't light the Sub I would use them..


BP


----------



## djnick66

model maker said:


> so you haven't sealed your seaview up then ? I counted 8 figures in my parts bags when i opened mine, i didn't think there would be that many.


There are supposed to be eight figures... six seated and two standing. I wish you got more. The Seaview itself has six seats, but I wanted two figures for the Flying Sub. Although once built NONE of the interior past the bulkhead is really visible. More standing figures would be nice. I think some N scale railroad figures would work ok. The kit figures aren't great, especailly the standing ones. I shaved down their feet and heads, and also the legs a bit as they have big bell-bottom pants. The big heads give them a Charlie Brown look.


----------



## starseeker

In the FS you could use 1/144 scale figures, as the interior of the flying sub interior was bigger than its exterior, and 1/128 figures wouldn't have room to stand up inside a 1/128 flying sub. In a 1/24 scale flying sub exterior, the interior would be approx 1/28, from what I can figure. 1/144 figures would only be about 9% too small, and seated the difference probably wouldn't be noticeable at all. The interior maquette is in Bob Burns collection. There are other photos of it but this is the only one I have on computer. In the FS miniature, the vents or grills around the hatches extend quite deeply into the ship both top and bottom. In the maquette, note how high the ceiling is. at least 7' from floor to hatch. In order to model both the exterior and the interior in one model , you're looking at an almost Jupiter 2 size fudge factor. 1/144 should work, and the figures are bound to be better than the kit figures.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Another update gentlemen.. 

I lit up the mini Flying Sub that comes with the Kit. 

I wanted the option of displaying the FS1 , In a varity of ways, by itself, in it's bay in Seaview Etc...so I came up with an Independent Lighting system for it.. With an interior based on the Real FS1 Miniature. I'll super detail the Moebius Larger Flying Sub when it arrives!!
It Operates by 3 mini Batteries an one white Led, which as I did with Seaview, Filtered and altered to give it the same look as the original Filming Miniature.... 







Again, my goal was to replicate the look of the original Filming miniature.

It operates by pushing a button where the rear hatch is(I'll post more pics later). I have the sub able to almost snap shut,for easy battery replacement. However I did use some white glue around the edges.


----------



## djnick66

I messed up my Flying sub and can't get the paint off the hull halves for a repaint (used Tamiya laquers) wahhhhhhhh


----------



## Captain Han Solo




----------



## falcondesigns

There you go!alexander


----------



## Captain Han Solo

falcondesigns said:


> There you go!alexander


Again, Many thanks for allowing me to Bounce the Ideas off you Sir, And Thanks for you help:thumbsup::thumbsup:

When I worked it all out It really looked sweet:woohoo:



BP


----------



## bert model maker

Thanks BeatlePaul. Now to try and fiqure out what will BE the best replacement glass. How much detail can you see inside yours when you look through the front ? How much if any,will be out of sight when looking in ? Nothing like detailing something so good you want to show it off then, no one can even see that part, now THAT is frustrating. When I do mine, I plan on displaying the F/S just leaving the F/S bay ( or just returning ) depending on scheduling. HA HA. how about you ?


----------



## lenmon

It does look sweet Bro. Very nice work. 
Lenmon


----------



## Captain Han Solo




----------



## mcdougall

FANTASTIC:thumbsup:
Mcdee


----------



## Mitchellmania

The buildups of the Seaview are amazing!! I am so intimidated with the interiors and painting that huge hull, that I don't know if I will buy one of these. I pretty much a figure modeler.


----------



## Zorro

I'm pretty much a figure modeler too but I love looking at this stuff. You vehicular-type guys are _amazing! _A little obsessive - but that's probably _why_ you're amazing.:thumbsup:


----------



## SJF

Fantastic job! The lighting really makes it come alive. 

Sean


----------



## jbond

Vehicular modeling involves a lot more drudgery from my perspective--endless sanding, filling and masking, which is an affront to my laziness. Although I imagine painting a realistic face on a human figure model would be just as tough--my figure models have mostly been monsters and dinosaurs and they're very therapeutic after doing spaceships and submarines...


----------



## Dave Hussey

Just think of the Seaview as a dirty big diorama base for some teeny weeny figure models of Admiral Nelson et al.

Huzz


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Dave Hussey said:


> Just think of the Seaview as a dirty big diorama base for some teeny weeny figure models of Admiral Nelson et al.
> 
> Huzz


 
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:



BP


----------



## bert model maker

BeatlePaul, let me say this, OUTSTANDING !!!!! now THATS what I am talking about.
Bert


----------



## AJ-1701

Zorro said:


> I'm pretty much a figure modeler too but I love looking at this stuff. You vehicular-type guys are _amazing! _A little obsessive - but that's probably _why_ you're amazing.:thumbsup:


I tend to get a bit caught up in any model, figure or minature I do. maybe thats why it took me 1 month to paint up a squad of WH 40 minatures  I did the AMT's Emporer Palpatine whilst waiting for my seaview one nite to cut,glue and paint the body but it still took me over 2 nites to get the face and hands the way I wanted them 

I have to admit that this version of the Seaview would be the biggest vehical kit I,ve ever done.... And loving it :woohoo:


----------



## solex227

djnick66 said:


> I messed up my Flying sub and can't get the paint off the hull halves for a repaint (used Tamiya laquers) wahhhhhhhh


see if you can find a product called scale coat paint remover. You can find it in the train section of the hobby shop or ask .. it wont harm the plastic and it can remove stuborn chrome even. I am pretty sure it will remove the tamiya paint/laquer also. too bad you didnt use good old brake fluid. Brake fluid also can remove tamiya laquers also but you have to dip the part with in a 2 hours any longer and your stuck like chuck with a mess.:freak:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Two Pics of the interior...

First apologies for the quality of the pics, as I am still trying to master the "art" Of Miniature Photography(LOL)!!
Second, I have replaced the Kit supplied Window glass with Crystal Clear Viewports supplied by our very own Capt Kirk(Thanks again George!!!).

My Friends, WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!
In The pics you can see(I hope) I also used other figures than the ones supplied with the kit...


----------



## bert model maker

looks good ! what size fiqures did you use ? what does your staircase look like ? i hear some saying they are going to remove the handrailing, why, is it incorrect ? those crew fiqures bring the sub to life i can tell you that !


----------



## AJ-1701

It may be just the pc I'm on but I can't see said pics...


----------



## DinoMike

model maker said:


> looks good ! what size fiqures did you use ? what does your staircase look like ? i hear some saying they are going to remove the handrailing, why, is it incorrect ? those crew fiqures bring the sub to life i can tell you that !


 The handrail on the control room set in the series didn't have a handrail on the outside. The rail was on the inside, spiraling around the center post, as seen here:

http://www.robertdowdell.com/VTTBOTS/TimeBomb6.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

OK, i see it now, thanks ! i guess the handrail can be snipped off simply enough.


----------



## DinoMike

model maker said:


> OK, i see it now, thanks ! i guess the handrail can be snipped off simply enough.


 Yep! Clipped it away from the part on my Seaview with a pair of sprue cutters. A little sanding stick work on the edge, and it looked good as new.


----------



## bert model maker

I bet it looks better


----------



## gareee

Beatlepaul... a "trick" on miniature focus.. find something a similar distance away to what you really want in focus. with digital cameras, they focus pressed half way down, and "take" pressed all the way down.

Rest your elbows on the table, or place the camera on some stacked books. You want as least juggle as possible.

Focus on the larger easy to focus object th eproper distance away, then turn the camera towards the seaview windows, and snap the pic. repeat 4 or 5 times. Odds are, one pic will really stand out properly.

Also, some digicams have a odder macro ability, you actually need to back up away from the subject a little, and then use the zoom on the camera to get in "tighter" yet still focus.

I took some killer close flower images today (they look like I was 1 inch away), yet I was standing up, 3 feet away, and was zoomed in on them.

It takes some practice, but once you get the hang of the focus trick, some pics are much easier to achieve.

I also found the testors red bottle at Michaels today (Still then new squarish shape with the pro modeler tip, right?) so that'll help seaview assembly. (That IS the old "orange tube topped" stuff, right?)

I think I'm going to experiment with a blue base coat, and then a darkish silver dust coat on top for hull color. I'll experiment on cardboard first. That way I can still get a slightly blueish color, but still get a closer "model" color as well.. a compromise between the two.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

DinoMike said:


> Yep! Clipped it away from the part on my Seaview with a pair of sprue cutters. A little sanding stick work on the edge, and it looked good as new.


Gentlemen, the Handrails ARE ON THE STAIRWAY. They show up in the third season..

So leaving them is correct and Clipping them off is correct, Depends on which season you want:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

gareee said:


> Beatlepaul... a "trick" on miniature focus.. find something a similar distance away to what you really want in focus. with digital cameras, they focus pressed half way down, and "take" pressed all the way down.
> 
> Rest your elbows on the table, or place the camera on some stacked books. You want as least juggle as possible.
> 
> Focus on the larger easy to focus object th eproper distance away, then turn the camera towards the seaview windows, and snap the pic. repeat 4 or 5 times. Odds are, one pic will really stand out properly.
> 
> Also, some digicams have a odder macro ability, you actually need to back up away from the subject a little, and then use the zoom on the camera to get in "tighter" yet still focus.
> 
> I took some killer close flower images today (they look like I was 1 inch away), yet I was standing up, 3 feet away, and was zoomed in on them.
> 
> It takes some practice, but once you get the hang of the focus trick, some pics are much easier to achieve.
> 
> I also found the testors red bottle at Michaels today (Still then new squarish shape with the pro modeler tip, right?) so that'll help seaview assembly. (That IS the old "orange tube topped" stuff, right?)
> 
> I think I'm going to experiment with a blue base coat, and then a darkish silver dust coat on top for hull color. I'll experiment on cardboard first. That way I can still get a slightly blueish color, but still get a closer "model" color as well.. a compromise between the two.


 
Thanks for the Tip:thumbsup:

I'll have to give it a try.


----------



## bert model maker

Thanks BP for the headsup on the handrail for the 3rd season !
Bert


----------



## RogueJ

The handrail had been on the inside since the movie. Imagine my surprise when doing my research for the upcoming Seaview when I came across a pic showing an outside handrail. I wasn't aware when it was added. Since it wasn't added until the 3rd season, I guess either way would be ok.

Rogue


----------



## bert model maker

I always seem to like the third or last season of shows with respect to models. The 3rd season Jupiter 2 for example, was the most colorful and had all of the add ons in the ship. That way, I know i will leave nothing out. This seaview is a dream come true with it's size and details. I can just imagine what a Moebius Jupiter 2 will look like and I would be the first in line to get it. Moebius sure has come through for us modelers I can tell you that !


----------



## Seaview

As much as I've always loved the Seaview, Flying Sub and Jupiter 2, I've always felt a special affinity for the Spindrift, and I hope that there are plans for those three IA vehicles getting exactly the same wonderful treatment as the Seaview got (and the Chariot and Space Pod are about to get) within the next couple of years. :thumbsup:


----------



## woof359

*glue*

what did you use to assemble this monster, pro weld?


----------



## AJ-1701

woof359 said:


> what did you use to assemble this monster, pro weld?


Don't know about what you blokes have available over there But I have been using the old "Humbrol" squeeze tube for years and it welds a treat. Used right it can even take care of small join issues :thumbsup: I found it waorked a treat on my Seaview wven the big middle seam.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

woof359 said:


> what did you use to assemble this monster, pro weld?


 
I used gap filling superglue and JB Weld for my Build up.:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Howdy.

Hereare a couple more IMAGES for you guys..Enjoy!






Regards,
BP


----------



## gareee

funny how yours looks bluish, just like the original underwater


----------



## starmanmm

> Second, I have replaced the Kit supplied Window glass with Crystal Clear Viewports supplied by our very own Capt Kirk(Thanks again George!!!).


So, is George selling these?


----------



## Captain Han Solo

starmanmm said:


> So, is George selling these?


 
Your going to have to Contact George on that:thumbsup:

The good Capt. Kirk did an outstanding job on these windows.And as you can see, it makes all the difference when viewing the interior.

They are clear windows molded from the Kit parts. Perfect fit.



High Regards,
BP


----------



## Capt. Krik

starmanmm said:


> So, is George selling these?


Actually, I have been thinking of producing these and seeing if either Cult or maybe even Federation Models would like to handle selling them.

The problem right now is time or the lack there of. My plate is kind of full at the moment. Between my job and commission builds and the fact I'd like to find some time to build my own Seaview.


----------



## bert model maker

beatlepaul said:


> I used gap filling superglue and JB Weld for my Build up.:thumbsup:


BP, how did the JB weld work ? I Did you use that for the hull halves as well or just the fore & aft section ? I think something a little stronger than testors cement is needed for something this size especially if you pick it up.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

model maker said:


> BP, how did the JB weld work ? I Did you use that for the hull halves as well or just the fore & aft section ? I think something a little stronger than testors cement is needed for something this size especially if you pick it up.


 
Bert, I used the JB Weld at several different points during construction. I have used it very often in the past.You can sand it super smooth if need be. The stuff is great to work with:thumbsup:

On My Seaview, I used it to attach the Completed Bow to the Stern. I also used it when I attached the lower hull/ Flying Sub Bay to the Sub.

I can use my Seaview to play Soft Ball If i wanted(LOL), without thinking about it breaking apart!

BP


----------



## gareee

That kind of made me wonder about the RC kits for this.. I wonder if a styrene model kit would even have plastic strong enough for semi regular rc play?


----------



## falcondesigns

It does,just ask David Merriman.alexander


----------



## bert model maker

beatlepaul said:


> Bert, I used the JB Weld at several different points during construction. I have used it very often in the past.You can sand it super smooth if need be. The stuff is great to work with:thumbsup:
> 
> On My Seaview, I used it to attach the Completed Bow to the Stern. I also used it when I attached the lower hull/ Flying Sub Bay to the Sub.
> 
> I can use my Seaview to play Soft Ball If i wanted(LOL), without thinking about it breaking apart!
> 
> BP


Thanks BP. any special mixing or application needed since it is model plastic that is being cemented ?


----------



## starmanmm

> Originally Posted by *Capt. Krik*
> Actually, I have been thinking of producing these and seeing if either Cult or maybe even Federation Models would like to handle selling them.
> 
> The problem right now is time or the lack there of. My plate is kind of full at the moment. Between my job and commission builds and the fact I'd like to find some time to build my own Seaview.


Don't blame you on that.

Cult would have no problem selling them nor would Federation.... just give a shout if that is the way you decide to do it... and that is if you do it.


----------



## woof359

finding that hiding the seams is a bit more challenging than i thought,

and i usally use a big card board box with a fan to paint inside the house, not any where close enough for this monster. might have to move to the garage.


----------



## bert model maker

beatlepaul said:


> Your going to have to Contact George on that:thumbsup:
> 
> The good Capt. Kirk did an outstanding job on these windows.And as you can see, it makes all the difference when viewing the interior.
> 
> They are clear windows molded from the Kit parts. Perfect fit.
> 
> 
> 
> High Regards,
> BP


How distorted are the kits original windows ?


----------



## AJ-1701

They are not distorted per-sa. Because they are a bit thicker and curved you tend to get the same effect as if you are looking into a pair of binoculars the wron way round.


----------



## bert model maker

Ok, I see ( no pun intended) So they DO need to be replaced then if you want to see any detailing that was done inside then ? By the way, Your Seaview looks Outstanding ! great job.


----------



## MML

To seal or not to seal?

I was wondering about the hull section that the FS bay/control centre sits on. Would it be wise to leave it removable in case of LED or lightsheet failure? Or is that even likely? The obvious seam would annoy me a lot if I left it unfilled.


----------



## AJ-1701

model maker said:


> Ok, I see ( no pun intended) So they DO need to be replaced then if you want to see any detailing that was done inside then ? By the way, Your Seaview looks Outstanding ! great job.


Thanks mate. 

I went for the blister pack trimmed to fit for my windows. :thumbsup: 

I would love to do this kit as a movie version with interior... maybe oneday some clever person will do such an aftermarket conversion for those less talented scratch builders.


----------



## teslabe

Hi AJ, 
you should take a look at Evergreen's "#9007-clear .015 (0.4mm) styrene sheets". It's
very clear and worked very well on my sub. If you can't find it down under, let me know and I'll see how I might send you some.


----------



## Seaview

AJ-1701 said:


> I would love to do this kit as a movie version with interior... maybe oneday some clever person will do such an aftermarket conversion for those less talented scratch builders.


 
We're all in luck; apparently Jim Teskey of Canada is working on exactly that whenever he can, and either he or Falcon (Alexander) will let us know when it is available. 
This is one of the reasons I bought TWO Seaviews.


----------



## scotpens

Seaview said:


> We're all in luck; apparently Jim Teskey of Canada is working on exactly that whenever he can, and either he or Falcon (Alexander) will let us know when it is available.


It's Richard "Rick" Teskey, actually. And I'm waiting for that 8-window conversion kit -- to me, the _Seaview_ just doesn't look right with the TV nose.


----------



## starmanmm

Does he have a site where he talks about both this conversion kit and possible window replacement?

Would love to get on board on that.

This is the reason why I have waited to build my kit. I knew someone would be making the up dated parts I would need.


----------



## ripkin6

*Seaview Windows are set too high!!!*

There's something odd about the seaview, it's the View port windows,there set alittle too high, as an experiment tape togeather the front of your unmade seaview and slip the front windows with frame over it so you get a gap behind, now position the windows a little further down. I think it looks so much better. You may have to adjust the window support frames inside


----------



## JeffG

I'm not sure if they sit too high overall, but what I've noticed (unless it's just my imagination) is that the upper rear edge seems a little high-i.e. the top edge of the windows seem to angle up slightly toward the rear and are not level. Or am I just losing it (lol)?

In any event great job on the buildup I'm holding off to get the lighting and photoetch goods. I'm only building this sucker once, so I wanna go all out!


----------



## teslabe

ripkin6 said:


> There's something odd about the seaview, it's the View port windows,there set alittle too high, as an experiment tape togeather the front of your unmade seaview and slip the front windows with frame over it so you get a gap behind, now position the windows a little further down. I think it looks so much better. You may have to adjust the window support frames inside


Hi Ripkin, I must be getting dim in my old age. Could you post a picture of this, for the life of me, I don't see it. I too, only want to build this thing once.


----------



## ripkin6

*Seaview Windows are set too high!!!*

Hi here you go,hope attachment has attached! Sorry about the quality as I've got the flue & can't hold the camera steady but I hope you can see that the windows only need to drop a little & forward as there is a little too much searchlight nose.


----------



## JeffG

To me, the jury is still out that the overall windows are too high, but I definitely do think they are angled up at the top edge toward the rear. Compare with this.
http://www.fxmodels.com/seaview.shtml


----------



## ripkin6

Yes, those windows look spot on to me as they are set lower than the Moebious model kit. Also you're right about the angles. My comments where more what you can do to improve it without drastic remodeling. Also I wish they'd stuck to the original box art photo from the series (attached) as I find the final boxart very bland & inaccurate it lacks impact.Also you can see the windows are set lower


----------



## starseeker2

You do need to do some kit altering. The easiest way to fix the windows is to use the kit windows as a hull plug http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=63264&d=1216855949
ans just frame in new windows from clear plastic. As the windows are supposed to be flat panes, not hull shaped anyway, it's pretty simple.
The windows were set higher on the nose of the 17 foot than on the 8 foot. 
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=61306&d=1213721146
(That drawing is based on head on photos of the 2 Seaview noses that have been posted on various sites, including this one.) Which is fine as the Moebius nose is a reasonably correct shape for the 17'. If you want to model an 8' accurately, the nose profile and the shape of the manta fin from above need to be considerably altered.


----------



## ripkin6

So it looks like if you want a more accurate model use the windows without the frame. Yes the windows looked flat in the series like on the Jupitor 2. Wish someone would do a resin update kit part


----------



## Paulbo

ripkin6 said:


> So it looks like if you want a more accurate model use the windows without the frame.


That depends - which filming miniature do you want your build accurate to? If you want it accurate to the 8'/underwater boat use the windows WITH the frames. If you want it accurate to the 17'/surface boat use the windows WITHOUT the frames. (And use the appropriate missile silo piece for behind the sail to match your windows.)

Then, of course, there's the problem of the limber holes which generally depict the 17'/surface boat and are not appropriate for the 8' boat. (Though since the kit's holes are not on raised panels they aren't really accurate to either miniature.)


----------



## david merriman

Paulbo said:


> That depends - which filming miniature do you want your build accurate to? If you want it accurate to the 8'/underwater boat use the windows WITH the frames. If you want it accurate to the 17'/surface boat use the windows WITHOUT the frames. (And use the appropriate missile silo piece for behind the sail to match your windows.)
> 
> Then, of course, there's the problem of the limber holes which generally depict the 17'/surface boat and are not appropriate for the 8' boat. (Though since the kit's holes are not on raised panels they aren't really accurate to either miniature.)


Paul's actually assembled one of these kits.

However, a lot of you guys are getting bogged down in stupid little detail items -- just shut-up and assemble the damn kit! I see more excuses here for not doing something than reasons to do something. At some point you have to be pragmatic about it and carry on with the assembly.

You strive for perfection (or are all these posts intended to prove who's the smartest, exacting potential kit-assembler in the room?) and you'll never get away from the documentation. However, if you can come to terms with the kits imagined shortcomings and move on anyway, you'll eventually arrive at a satisfying conclusion.

Enough with the yak-yak! Poop or get off the pot.

Assemble your SEAVIEW kit and post the results here. I dare you!!!!!

David,


----------



## gareee

Well, my excuse was taking about 6 weeks to build 2 Ghostbuster full sized proton packs n guns.. we won $1500 in halloween contests, so I guess they came out well enough.

Only thing that's really holding me back on my seaview now, is deciding which led christmas lights to use to light it.. I used all my "A" led light sets for the ghostbuster stuff.


----------



## ripkin6

*Seaview Shortcomings*

Sorry shipmates, but I paid alot for this kit including shipping to England so what I would of liked in return is a kit that's accurate, is that too much to ask? I didn't put my hard earned money down for 'Shortcomings' you're selling yourself short.
'Shortcomings' have no pride in their work, if a kit takes them longer than 5 hours to build there must be a problem,they don't do painting, preferring that toy like plastic shine,'Just get it built'! is their war cry 'It's not going to be around next year anyway'! 'Hey better still, have we got some fire crackers?'
Yes, am going to make the alterations myself complete with flat windows & lights,am also going to take my time,times good!
I've also orderd the flying sub interior kit, now,lets say goodbye to 'Shortcomings':woohoo:


----------



## teslabe

I think I must have missed the point of building a model, having a group to talk about it, and posting pictures of the fun I'm having doing it. Yes, there are some things about the kit that might be off, but it's just a kit...... This is why I never joined a company bowling team, sometimes we miss the point, it's to have fun.:woohoo:


----------



## ripkin6

But that's where the fun begins, seeing a detail that's not right & correcting it, none Sci-Fi modelers have it good,when they build a tank there's so many aftermarket parts for them to buy. My point is, just because it's a Sci-Fi subject don't we deserve the same standard as none Sci-Fi modelers enjoy? For too many years we've had to put up with kits that lacked detail & looked more like toys when constructed as they were marketed for kids to make up in a couple of hours so that they could go & attack the 'Deathstar'
Am not saying the Seaview kits bad,far from it but why not improve it? Why have the same version as everyone else has got?


----------



## JeffG

I usually settle for a compromise but I love it when somebody completes a kit two hours after they bought it, has glue and seams all over it and it looks like a piece of melted candy, then posts pictures saying 'looky, looky!' Thanks but no thanks. I'll take my time and do it right. It's not a race.


----------



## ripkin6

I once met a 'Speed Modeller' I had been building a space ship based on a friends comic book creation 'Speed Modeller' was very negative on the amount of time it was taking me as I was using plastic sheet & resin to build it. 'Speed Modeller' built his out of painted card because it was much quicker & had took some photos to show it off 'could I see them?'
He then took out an album from his bag & 'yes',the model looked just like painted card! 'GO!! GO!! Speed Modeller!'


----------



## gareee

I just think there are far too many anal people overly zealous about some kits.

Personally, I think the Big seaview is perfect, and is exactly what I wanted for the last 30 odd years.

I just don't sweat the small stuff.


----------



## ripkin6

*Seaview Shortcomings*

Yes I agree but not when you pay big bucks for a model like I did, then 'The Small Stuff' sure is important to me!


----------



## starseeker2

It's been about 40 years before we finally got a decent-sized, affordable, injection kit of the Seaview and I've waited for one for about that long. 1. I'd like it to look like one of the Seaviews I saw on TV. So fixing the shape of the nose and the FS bay and the prop cones was a given. 2. Even tho I figure I've put about 200 hours into this kit (see the Seaview Inaccuracies and Fixes thread), I'm enjoying what I'm doing to this kit more than any other model I've ever built (and that's been about 200 kits). All the time I've put into this has been Fun, even last night when I realized that I'd totally forgotten about the diving bell and that it needs electricity too and had to open up what could have been the finished bottom (aarugh!!!) to thread wires through the bulkheads to the minisub/bell bay. 

For me the whole thing is about the fun (not obsession) of building and detailing. When this is done, I'm going to miss the build greatly. The Seaview will sit on a shelf of a year or two and eventually I won't even notice it any more and then it will end up in the attic with all my other models, waiting to be discovered by who knows who many years (very many, I hope) from now. What I'd like is for them to be blown away by all its crazy intricacy the same way I was as a kid by my dad's insanely intricate ships in a bottle. 

But whether it's out of box without putty or paint or a never-ending build with lights and video and sound, as long as you're having fun with it - that's the only thing that matters.


----------



## gareee

$100 isn't really that much money any more. And it really hurt writing that, but even basic action figures now are $15.99 and up. Look at how much toys cost today.

I paid $150 for the lunar models vacuformed seaview and nose kit, which I never could build.. if you want to talk about inaccuracies n build issues.

But for a kit the size of the seaview, $100 was a pretty good value I think. (I think mine was like $95 shipped on a preorder.)

I might balk at a $100 pricepoint on the flying sub.. haven't decided that yet.

And look at aftermarket additions if you want to look at value. $30 shipped for a laser cut sheet of brass that's maybe 1 foot square? regardless of the work involved, that's much less a value then the seaview kit. Look at the add on things for the chariot.. you can get the kit for $25, but a replacement brass instrument panel and 2 led lights cost the same amount.

Heck, look at the RC kit for the seaview.. it's what? $500 or so?


----------



## gareee

starseeker2 said:


> But whether it's out of box without putty or paint or a never-ending build with lights and video and sound, as long as you're having fun with it - that's the only thing that matters.


Yep, that's the real bottom line.. as long as you have fun with the kits, that's all that's really important.


----------



## teslabe

gareee said:


> Yep, that's the real bottom line.. as long as you have fun with the kits, that's all that's really important.


That was my point at the top of the page.:thumbsup: I love this kit, along
with the Chariot and Space Pod and will be in line for the Flying Sub.......
I find this all just good old fun and love going crazy with the extra stuff I'm
doing with my kit.:freak: I have a great time reading all the posts and looking 
at the great pictures from the group. We all have an idea of how our kits should look and I'd be the last one to tell some else how to build theirs.


----------



## starseeker2

Paulbo said:


> Then, of course, there's the problem of the limber holes which generally depict the 17'/surface boat and are not appropriate for the 8' boat. (Though since the kit's holes are not on raised panels they aren't really accurate to either miniature.)


The limber holes were on raised panels on the 17', for sure. But the 17' only had the fwd limber holes. The 8', or at least one of them or at one point anyway, was smooth (see attach). I think the raised panels were the frets the model makers cut the holes out of, cemented to the miniature, same as the water intakes on the prop tubes. I don't think they were meant to be seen as raised. The screws that hold the deck in place are even more clearly visible on the DVDs and I'm really sure they weren't meant to be seen. Seems to me when I was doing my Seaview drawings years ago that on various Seaviews under water (the 8' and 4' minis most probably then) that some had limber holes that leaned fwd, some had limber holes that leaned back, and that some had holes that were vertical. I'm thinking that repair frets were made at random as needed. 

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=61357&d=1213795994

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=61359&d=1213798968


----------



## Captain Han Solo

david merriman said:


> Paul's actually assembled one of these kits.
> 
> However, a lot of you guys are getting bogged down in stupid little detail items -- just shut-up and assemble the damn kit! I see more excuses here for not doing something than reasons to do something. At some point you have to be pragmatic about it and carry on with the assembly.
> 
> You strive for perfection (or are all these posts intended to prove who's the smartest, exacting potential kit-assembler in the room?) and you'll never get away from the documentation. However, if you can come to terms with the kits imagined shortcomings and move on anyway, you'll eventually arrive at a satisfying conclusion.
> 
> Enough with the yak-yak! Poop or get off the pot.
> 
> Assemble your SEAVIEW kit and post the results here. I dare you!!!!!
> 
> David,


 


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## starseeker2

Sorry. Now that I'm nearing the end of the build I'm getting really pumped. And it's at the end that all the small details are getting finalized.

That's an interesting quote from Merriman. Over on Cultman he has an excellent, essential, and rather long article (http://www.culttvman.com/david_merriman_s_57__seaview.html) on building a DeBoer's Seaview where he proudly spends a lot of time on trying to get details just right, uses extensively Fox blueprints and other "primary references" as well as his own orthos pulled from the 17" while extolling the virtues of doing so, and also wages an all out assault on mere "kit assemblers". I'm glad to see he's changed his mind on all these things, especially that he's lightened up on people who want to build simply and quickly. A newer and mellower David Merriman? Wait... I hear the sound of something freezing over...

Only point I was trying to make is that you don't have to buy a photoetched piece to raise the limber holes thinking you're going to make the model more "accurate". There's no such thing as "accurate" on the Seaview, just any number of options and combinations to choose from. Even the miniatures contradict each other and, season to season, themselves. You can make it better, you can fix a lot of obvious mistakes, you can go nuts on super-detailing and let your imagination run wild, but you can never be "accurate".


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Hmmnnn....

When I started this thread several months ago, I thought it would be fun to document a Favorite Subject Model Build...The Moebius Seaview.

And by all accounts it has and still is fun:thumbsup:

I have built several of these kits now, and currently Finally Finishing up one for Someone else.

It just gets boring reading the SAME questions about certain aspects of this kit that have already been addressed in the first few pages of this thread

Also I find the advice and comments of all of the "experts" who have yet to post a Picture or two of their work, kinda funny..but to each his own I guess.


As I pointed out several months ago, There are Basically Two Versions of Seaview to Have your Model "Acurate to...
The 17'3" Miniature(which the Moebius kit is based on)
The Eight foot Miniature(The nose profile is VERY different from the 17'3").

Of course we are talking about the Second season on Seaview and Not the Feature first season.

I would actually like the Mods to close this thread.

High Regards,
Beatlepaul


----------



## Paulbo

starseeker2 said:


> But the 17' only had the fwd limber holes.


I'm afraid the 17' had front AND rear and the 8' had raised limber holes. If you look more closely at the first reference (i.e. enhance the image) you'll see the shadow for the raised holes and in the second notice that the angle would hide the shadow.

The lower drain holes, however, are not raised.

If the raised holes were not meant to be seen the would not have been two feet thick in scale.

Sorry to harp on this, but I did a ton of research on this to make sure the ones for the photoetch set are accurate, both in the hole shape / location and the sizing and shaping of the raised panels for both versions of the boat.


----------



## starseeker2

That's okay, I won't visit this site any more after this. The attached is the standard shot of the Seaview on the surface in every second episode. There is also the well-seen photo of the stbd side as David Merriman is refurbishing, the one with the coffee cup on the deck, in which the front holes are clearly visible and the back are clearly not there, tho on the port side of the finished 17', they are there. Maybe Mr. Merriman can shed some light. 

Edit: But it would be churlish of me to go without thanking all the people in these forums who have shared such amazing information and enthusiasm and inspiration. Great, wonderful resources so many of you are. My own projects are so much the better for what I've found here. I hope some of you do get your own sites up and running. Be great to see all the stuff that you have. 

Modelers: Have Fun!!!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

starseeker2 said:


> That's okay, I won't visit this site any more after this. The attached is the standard shot of the Seaview on the surface in every second episode. There is also the well-seen photo of the stbd side as David Merriman is refurbishing, the one with the coffee cup on the deck, in which the front holes are clearly visible and the back are clearly not there, tho on the port side of the finished 17', they are there. Maybe Mr. Merriman can shed some light.
> 
> Edit: But it would be churlish of me to go without thanking all the people in these forums who have shared such amazing information and enthusiasm and inspiration. Great, wonderful resources so many of you are. My own projects are so much the better for what I've found here. I hope some of you do get your own sites up and running. Be great to see all the stuff that you have.
> 
> Modelers: Have Fun!!!


 
I sincerely hope you DO continue to visit this site and add to the excitement Of Building these Beautiful Kits:thumbsup:


High Regards,
Beatlepaul


----------



## teslabe

starseeker2 said:


> That's okay, I won't visit this site any more after this. The attached is the standard shot of the Seaview on the surface in every second episode. There is also the well-seen photo of the stbd side as David Merriman is refurbishing, the one with the coffee cup on the deck, in which the front holes are clearly visible and the back are clearly not there, tho on the port side of the finished 17', they are there. Maybe Mr. Merriman can shed some light.
> 
> Edit: But it would be churlish of me to go without thanking all the people in these forums who have shared such amazing information and enthusiasm and inspiration. Great, wonderful resources so many of you are. My own projects are so much the better for what I've found here. I hope some of you do get your own sites up and running. Be great to see all the stuff that you have.
> 
> Modelers: Have Fun!!!


Hi starseeker, I for one enjoy reading your posts and seeing all that you contribute to the group.:thumbsup: Let the sour grapes just roll off your 
back...... Keep on posting.....:wave:


----------



## Paulbo

starseeker2 said:


> That's okay, I won't visit this site any more after this.


I'm sorry if it's something I wrote that's causing this.

On the limber holes question - let's just agree to disagree. 

I'm thinking this is like arguing about the exact layout of the interior: different episodes show things differently ... heck, within the same episode things are shown differently! (The video screen in the observation lounge comes to mind. Shot one it's a video screen, shot two it's two speaker grills, shot three it's ... well, you get the picture :freak: )


----------



## Antimatter

*He's right*

17' had no rear limber holes on the right side but did on left. Weird.


----------



## Antimatter

*Merriman reply*

I asked Dave about the limber holes. His answer:

Beats me, kiddo.

David,


----------



## Seaview

"It's only a model..."


----------



## jbond

It's not uncommon at all for miniatures to be constructed to be filmed on one side only; I believe the red and green rear fin lights on the Seaview were changed to white so footage could be "flopped" when necessary to get more mileage out of the same shot. Maybe the original plan was to film only the left side of the 17' miniature but as the series went on more angles were captured and the original plan went out the window.

What I appreciate about the photoetched limber holes is not that they achieve super accuracy, but that they make painting of these details so much easier.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

and we all know about the "other" side of the Enterprise having no detailing t all. ... not uncommon at all for studios to skimp on details.


----------



## ripkin6

*Seaview Window Change*

I've changed the angle of the Seaview windows by cutting a 'U' shape, slowly remove the excess plastic then glue and fill into place, hope you can make out by the poor pic what I mean! the corner of the window doesn't angle up I've just changed one so you can see the diffrence but it's very subtle, the thing Am also going to take some plastic off the bottom of the window part so they sit lower


----------



## solex227

ripkin6

Which side did you cut out this u shape? To me the Windows on the left look to be the correct shape I was looking to get but dont see what you cut to get that shape.

also anyone need clear windows to fit the kit. I have a few left over that I will not be using.. they have lite scratches but Im sure could be removed with tlc. PM me if intrested 

solex227


----------



## ripkin6

Hi Solex227, yes the window on the left is the altered one (with the grey line of filler above it,I left the one on the right as it was, to show the difference) I cut right into the top corner of the window then to the edge of the part,then cut another line form where the window spar starts to the edge,then I removed the peice and trimed it down to change the angle then reglued it back into place, take your time with this operation as it has to be done by eye. This gives you a more correct frame without drastic remodeling, am also going to trim down the bottom of the part so the windows sit lower.


----------

