# Brp Sc-18 V2



## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Had a sneak peak at the V2 today. It looks a little like the Pro, but in blue fiberglass. It will use the 2/3A size batteries, and the same front end as the SC-18. The main difference is the T-plate, and the ball joint connecting it to the chassis. 



We will see it’s track debut on the 14th…..*the word is that Bud is putting in a Speed 300 to whip on Wayne!!!!*

:freak:


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

I dought that !!!!!!!!!


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## sg1 (Apr 2, 2003)

Bud... why would you wanna whip on your most valued customer??? Besides, it's gonna rain!! Looks like the next race day will have to be a 2 day event with 4 races!!


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Yes when the weather said sunny I got worried. But I think we will be OK.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

SG1 you know you can't count on the weather for an entire weekend. It would have to be a marathon day of racing with 4 sessions of racing back to back. So, if we can start at 11 and finish 2 sessions by 6PM then we would be racing 4 sessions until 1AM or 2AM by the time you stopped for dinner...

RAFster


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

The SC18 V2 had a good first race! Will do some fine tuning and get a conversion kit ready for the last race.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

The V2 looked smooth on the track...the only bad news is you have to buy the GOOD 2/3A cells -- lots of $$$$$ -- Bud are you going to carry the cells you ran?


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

I think the standard KAN cells will be OK I will test them one day. I just did not change that pack all day and they were pretty fast. I did nothing to the car all day just re charged the pack and that is it. I want to set up the timer one day and really tune it in.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Bud, 

Do you anticipate the V2 utilizing full sized AA cells in the V2 as well? Similar to the Pro...or, is the height of the T-plate's pivot ball setup too high?

Also, is the V2 going to be considered a modified or stock car?

RAFster


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

No it can't use AA cells.


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

Let me know when ya have a pic, Id love to get a gander. 
We had a M-18 show last saturday.. impressive.
Looks cute, nice body, nice paint job... GOT LAST! but not as bad of a beating as the micro RS4 got.. we gave the micro RS4's a 5 lap headstart handycap.. should have been a 17 though I guess... the X-Ray didnt want one.. but only got laped 8 times.
Ohh not slamming the micro Rs4.. so fans of em dont get upset... perhaps they didint have a good setup??? but they quit after 1/2 of the 2nd heat, and the X-Ray M-18 got last of the ones still running... but all in all I thought it was pretty neet... can the parma S16D be made to fit one, or what mod will get it up to SC18 Stock Speeds?


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

The only mod that works for the M-18 and the Micro is to sell it and buy a SC-18!


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

I have a M18 for sale !!!!!!!!


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## wazzer (Nov 13, 2001)

So Bud, to repeat Rafster's question, will the V-2 be considered stock, at least for competion purposes? Or would an entirely new class need to be considered. How about something in between the SC-18 and Mod, say the V-2 with a modified 16D motor? It would be able to handle the extra power, yet not be silly fast like the speed 300's.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

wazzer said:


> So Bud, to repeat Rafster's question, will the V-2 be considered stock, at least for competion purposes? Or would an entirely new class need to be considered. How about something in between the SC-18 and Mod, say the V-2 with a modified 16D motor? It would be able to handle the extra power, yet not be silly fast like the speed 300's.


I like that idea....we could use S16d arms and twister cans.....


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Is the Trinity Twister better than the Rotor can by Parma? 
I think I know the answer to this in part since the Slot Car City uses this as a basis for their C can buildup it is thought by them to be a good can out of the box. 
You end up with an adjustable timing can with either the Rotor or Twister and then by matching different arms with the can you end up with an endless combinations of timing based on armature timing and can timing. (The motor performance is going to be fairly limited to a certain range depending on gearing and overall timing.

How do you find the sweet spot for setting the timing and how do you determine what armature will work best??

David
RAFster


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

wazzer said:


> So Bud, to repeat Rafster's question, will the V-2 be considered stock, at least for competion purposes? Or would an entirely new class need to be considered. How about something in between the SC-18 and Mod, say the V-2 with a modified 16D motor? It would be able to handle the extra power, yet not be silly fast like the speed 300's.


 BUD, is it mum's the word for now?
Or is the jury out...?

He named it the SC18 V2 so one would presume it may be stock instead of Mod since it is an evolution of the SC18 not the Pro V2. 

David


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

It will be considered stock!!! The stock class this coming indoor season will be allowed 2/3A cells SC18 and SC18V2 chassis. You can also run the 2/3A cells in the SC18. There are lots of 2/3A cells to choose from out there more that AA cells. It will still be all the other standard rules for stock.
I hope to have conversions ready for the last race at Da Track. Price will be between $35.00 and $45.00  So save some money :wave:


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Yeah! A new Stock chassis and batteries opened up for Stock class.

It will ratchet up the competition but, it also can increase the price of competition in stock class. Not unlike that of other classes of racing.

Bud, 
Can AA batteries be configured to be used in the SC18 V2. I realize that it will not be a flat pack in side by side as is used in the SC18. 
A pyramid on each side would work but the batteries would run hotter as well as the center of gravity being raised. Is it feasible? 
With a stiff battery bar you could build up a pack with a hump over the Tbar with the two center cells in a side by side configuration.

Are the newer 2/3A cells such as the GP and new MH cells capable of delivering more voltage than a good AA Nicad?
Does the slight reduction in weight of the 2/3A NiMH cells and their performance equal that of Nicad AA cells?

David


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

I like the V2 chassis, but I am not sold on the 2/3A cells. Plus I finnaly have a stock chassis that I like! This winter should be a good series. 

Bud -- what is the winter schedule looking like?


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Have no idea yet need to find out HT schedule first.
Bud


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Micro_Racer said:


> I like the V2 chassis, but I am not sold on the 2/3A cells. Plus I finnaly have a stock chassis that I like! This winter should be a good series.
> 
> Bud -- what is the winter schedule looking like?


 Micro, 

Do you mean your current chassis in the one you like...
Curious as to what makes your current chassis better than 
previous ones?

Hopefully the winter series will be a good one with plenty of races.

David


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

David -- yes my current stock chassis I really like....it has many small mods that I have picked up from other racers, such as Wayne, Pat, Don S, to just name a few. It's the little things that make you FAST!


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Only about 10 years of practice will make me FAST. :jest:

Care to share any speed secrets?

RAFster


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

yeah Micro what about some speed secrets


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

What share secrets with his main competitor of the big trophy!!!!!


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

I guess you have to start not hitting any pipes or any other cars and not scrub off speed...


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## swamp thing (Dec 24, 2003)

Sure Andy will share his secrets. After he beats the pants off of you. See you in sept.


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

Here's a big speed secret, watch out for Wazzer. Last race he had the quickest car all day, took the tq for road course and was all over my bumper on the last lap for tq in oval, we went into the last turn with 2 other cars and I luckily made it out of the turn, I could not have held him off he was definately faster. He hounded Bob for 111 laps in the main and when he touched a tube Wazzer was around him on the last lap for the win.


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Yes good point !!!


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

correction to my last post, Microracer had TQ for road course, Wazzer took TQ in sprint and the wins in sprint and oval.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Yes, Wazzer came to BRP World Headquarters looking to return to Michigan with a few ribbons to weigh him down. He's a contender...

SO tune'em up boys and girls, we gonna to have some heated racin' come September 18th. If there is weather it will evaporate in steam clouds???

Warbird, you better let work know you are going to be on vacation and can't go anywhere for that week prior to the season finale. That way you won't miss the fun.?

IT is going to be a fun one to watch.

RAFster


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

Bringing the new V-2 here to indiana sept 11... Hmmm cant wait to see it in action. 
IM saving for 1 or 2 already.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

OK...been out of the office for a few days....If you are looking for speed - check out my web site...I will post more after the BIG 1st place trophy is handed out! And yes I did take TQ for road and was a lap up on the field when my servo tap gave out  

I think I have every thing ready for the next race. Only 2 points from that number 1 spot.....Andy better bring his A game with him!!!!


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

I think I will concentrate on bringing good motors with me this time, total count for burned up motors last race was 4.


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## wazzer (Nov 13, 2001)

Yeah, it only took me 2 1/2 seasons to finally get up to speed. And some of us don't live too close to Da Track for all of those "practice sessions" either. 

And then, just when I start to get a handle on it, wham, Bud comes out with a new version? Oh well, I least when you buy BRP, you know you won't have to worry about breaking anything, and you certainly won't need any hop ups to make it work. Best money I ever spent!


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

What is yet to be seen is if there is a competitive advantage of the new V2 over the older chassis. I think there is little doubt about it because the new design is better balanced out of the box. 
I wonder if the new Tplate design will be more prone to breaking. My 10LSS I"ve been racing at CORCAR this year has sufferred two broken Tplates. It is probably not as strong as Bud's 064 material, but they were 0.062 thick. 
The 10LSS is much heavier than the BRP and the design is different.

The Crash Test Team should not test this one too hard...  

I think Bud should see if he could get a supplier/maker to provide him with some lime-green chassis material for the new car. It would be distinctive...maybe a limited edition run?

Michael, instead of a Twister or other adjustable timing can, how about a 25 degree American wound arm in the "stock" fixed timing can. That would increase performance at the same time as making it manageable. 
Then again, Bud doesn't tech the motors now and there is probably some greater than stock timed motors being used in stock. 

RAFster


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

The weight (depening on the track) shouldnt hurt it bad, the aluminum chassis I have one my sc-18 makes it weigh more but didnt hurt the top end.. just the punch out of hole experiance.
Bud quit teching the motors for the kits or at Da track?
Its neet to get a fast motor with a kit over getting a pooch that ya have to dump or mess with... over all the ones he sent me seem to rock and roll well right out of the box.... so far.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

teching motors at the races to ensure things are legal for stock class. 
XP magnets, chinese arm at 25 degrees, etc...


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

Ahh ok I see.
Hmmm so far no on here is running a diferent arm that I know of but the XP magnets her are legal.. Bud's hand picked motors have em I think, and a couple of the guys run them. I seen Pama has other motors but with difernet colored endbells... the arms interchange? never messed with em but I had a guy stop over to see if I would buy some used ones and there was 4 diferent colors... I passed on em... didnt think they would be better or faster??


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## Nil (Dec 8, 2001)

Bud sez that these are the fastest 16D whole motors that Parma sells. I presume that means that other arms from Parma are not as good, although some others sell better ones. 

Since the motors all look alike and the arm is visible, teching them is easy if no one starts into twisted commutators.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Motors – you have many different arms, brushes and cans to choose from (non legal in stock class). The best place to get info on the 16d motor is on slot car web sites and forums. 

Arms – RJR and Fast Ones seem to be the most talked about on the slot forums. I have tried (in mod class) the Fast Ones S16d 45 degree arm. The arm was trued and balanced.

Cans – the Trinity “twister” can seems to be the “can” to have

Brushes and springs – the gold dust and the big bear brushes are said to be the best with a stiff spring.


I put all 3 parts together - twister can, 45 degree arm, gold dust brushes with stiffer spring on positive side – and found that motor was very fast!


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

The Twister, Midnight, and Rotor cans all have adjustable timing... The stock Parma can does not. From what I've been told... So, popping a 45 degree arm in the stock can will give you a motor not suitable to our use because off throttle will have a ton of braking action. Around 30-40 degrees timing is the most you can deal with in the stock can, going to the adjustable timing cans you have more range of adjustment. 

I've tried the RJR and FastOnes Big Bruiser arms in mod motors. They have gobs of torque due to their larger diameter arms. The air gap between the motor and magnet make them a little less than eager to spin up though. On slot cars they are killer, but not so killer in the SC18. I have used 36 and have a 32 degree arm of this make... I've not tried the 32 degree arm.
The FastOnes arms are a little better balanced than the RJR due to smaller operation and not as much of a "production" environment.
The RJR are more of a big manufacturer like Parma.

Kelly's is another small name in hopped up slots I've heard pretty good things about.

The Chinese machine wound arms, like the PARMA ones are not consistently wound and the windings are even and straight. The American wound/made arms are much straighter and as a result provide a better magnetic field and comparing an American wound vs Chinese wound, the American wound will produce more torque and power every time. (windings and timing being equal on the arms)

You can get evenly matched magnets in the XP magnets. They aren't necessarily stronger but they are evenly matched resulting in smoother motor performance and more rpms.

Aligning the brush hoods with the comm pays good dividends on these motors. You also don't want the brushes to hang up in the hoods of course.

Don't go too heavy on springs or you will burn up the motor.

Then you can go crazy and do things like buy can tools to align the cans to a consistent shape to maximize the magnetic field and center it on the armature.

FWIW...


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

wazzer hit on the important key, practice. You can have the fastest motor on the track and it does no good if you hit the tubes. If the turn marshall is slow getting to your upside down car you will lose a lap at Bud's. Should you then start yelling at the marshall's to get a move on? Keep in mind they did not drive the car into it's upside down configuration, you did. Bud's mantra is "Slow is Fast" there is a reason for it. Once you concentrate on smooth driving you will pick up speed using the same motor and batteries you are now using. As far as parts breakage goes, these are the most bullet-proof cars I have owned. If you drive over your head and crash often, stress will finally take its toll on any car. Micro's twister can setup is also the same one I use, makes for a very fast reliable mod motor.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Warbird and Wazzer mentioned that important part with these cars.
You have to be smooth to keep from scrubbing off speed and stay off the pipes or you kill the power output. You can see it at Akron if you mess up a line and try to tighten it up too fast you really kill the speed of the car. 

I bet Bud and a few others can take just about anyone's setup and drive it through the qualifiers and put it in the A-main. He probably won't be on pole but, he will be in the A main based on qualifying.

As has been said...It isn't equipment that puts you in the A-main, it is skill developed by practice. Where that practice occurs isn't cruicial but, it can help. 

For the mod guys, it is skill and equipment does come into play. I have seen a stock motor do reasonably against mod motors in the hands of an excellent driver.

David


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Driving skills are important, but having good equipment makes driving easier.


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## Donald Deutsch (Sep 29, 2001)

I agree, you can be the best driver, but if the setup is off you still will drive like garbage. Skill can not overcome a bad set up. Get the car setup first then practice, practice, practice. But will we beat Bud or Wayne, time will tell.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Will we beat Bud or Wayne? uh, if they were wrecked enough...
I mean, if they wrecked enough it could happen. :jest:

RAFster


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

HMMMmmmm much good info there, a lot I didnt know about the motors, winding, timing, brushes & cans.
For the In State Race we will have to check em out.. perhaps Bud or another expert can se we all have a fair chance.
I left it open for the type of battery ( 6 cells only ) as we have several diferent ones I have seen here.. built in difeerrnt ways and various types from 1000ma to 2500 ma.
Bodys are open and up to the drivers, as long as they are 18th scale.. like 1 example a driver has a micro rs4 body on a Buds, and another has a ??? McAlister mod? but its for a 1/18th scale Mini T I think he said.. but thought that was ok.
Hmmm a couple have bycicle inner tubed caped buds foams and do well.
I know none of these guy have anything other than the box stock motors or a Buds Hand picked water diped in thier racer... we all have a pretty equal chance to get the TQ and Win.
Practice and setup has been the main winning combo.
Some of these guys are EXCITED and some are SCARED knowing some of the BEST 1/8th scale drivers are comming here to race.
Told em to just do thier best and enjoy the rest.. who knows the Indiana trophy might just stay here in Indiana or perhaps will travel away, but the FUN of mixing it up with other fine drivers will be a BLAST.. and after all the winner will be called the BEST for 2004 and the Indiana State Championship WINNER.
All others can just read about it on the sites.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

In stock class we ALL have a Bud's motor -- all other cans and arms are only used in mod.


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## Nil (Dec 8, 2001)

DWBryan said:


> . . . the FUN of mixing it up with other fine drivers will be a BLAST..


Is it OK if I come anyway?


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

I sure hope so... the more the merrier  Most of the fun of the 1/18th on this track is the shier numbers of em we can get out there.
The 1/10th scale usually (but not all drivers) panic when there is over 5... and we can do a feild of 10 easy. 
(thats all my AMB can count up to untill next year.. hope to get the new digital)
Then maybe a feild of 20!!! AAAAAAAHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhh Yea BABY that'll get the ol adrenilin flowing.


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

I did get some laps with the mod today ( Speed 300 ) with a 9t pinion and 45 spur (SC-18 Funones) I sprayed silicon spray on the RF (Blue) and left the LF (blue) dry... loostened the rear pod up more and had orange in the Rear.
Didnt have a transponder charged but it was the best run with a mod I have ever done yet.. did 12 laps strait untill I lost it and crashed. Only broke the T-plate this time.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Hay Bud how many V2's do you have ready? And more important how many 2/3A cells do you have?​


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## DWBryan (Dec 8, 2001)

Guess I better stock up on some of them... Hmm GP or Sanyo 1800ma should get it.
I tryed the 2500 AA I got in... Hmmm they are a bit lacking in punch, but ya can wear out the radio stearing knob trying to run em down.


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## sg1 (Apr 2, 2003)

MICRO RACER... Don't forget POWER PUSH has 2/3 cells too!!! I'm stocking up for the trip to Indiana!!!


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Yes POWER PUSH number one !!! Ad told me so in magazine  
I hope to have several for Ind. will see how things go this week.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

AHHH the power of ad's...and if sg1 uses them they must be good...


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Yes, SG1 may not be a World Champ but National Champ ain't just whistling Dixie. The KANs aren't as good as some of the batteries Power Push has...

I had a dozen KAN1050s Tony zapped for me. The numbers were all over the place
and in general were not that good. That is the general lot of things as far as the few thousand KAN1050s Tony has processed. I dare say he has thrown out more KANs that didn't meet quality specs than I could ever use in a lifetime of racing running new packs every race weekend.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

OK got my hands on a V2 today. Hope to do some testing Thursday.....Bud is the front end shorter than the orginal? The servo plate sticks out and the bumper has much less room to screw on....


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Bud has some GP 1100 2/3A cells....nice and fast for the V2!!!!


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## Donald Deutsch (Sep 29, 2001)

I have my V2 put together now, so I think I am going to run stock motors this winter. The Mod motors are a little to much for me to handle successfuly.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

My V2 is ready to go...(thanks Bud for the parts). Stock should be a fun class this winter!


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## aeracer (Oct 28, 2001)

Does anyone have a complete description or pictures of the V2? When will it be available to the public (nothing on the website)? 
Thanks,
Ross


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

I hope to have it on the web site soon.


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

*V2 assembly question*

Bud: I have a (probably dumb) question on the V2 assembly. is the T plate supposed to be level with the chassis? I have front screw with 2 nylon washers under T plate, the pivot ball makes the rear alittle higher than front. There's also some play up and down on the pivot screw. As best I can tell from assembly pics it looks right, but thought I'd check before going any further.

That's the nice thing about this Forum....got a question? Ask da Man himself!
:thumbsup:


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## Nil (Dec 8, 2001)

This sounds like it's about time for Micro_Racer to put together a new book (hint, hint)


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## Donald Deutsch (Sep 29, 2001)

The v2 I built has a level T-plate and the pivot ball should be snug and smooth in movement. Also the bottom plate should even with chassis plate.


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## Don S (Sep 28, 2004)

Make sure you polish the steel pivot ball. Put a long 4-40 bolt thru it and tighten it with a nut. Then chuck it up in a drill or Dremel and use a good metal polish-Simichrome, Flitz, etc. It should be nice and shiny. Assemble with just a touch of diff lube.


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

Thanks for your help guys....I must have something pretty SNAFU. My steel pivot ball rattles around in the two black pieces like a peanut in a tin can. Even if I tighten the 4 screws right down tight it still moves up & down.
I have the round black plastic piece on top with 4 nubs for the screws up, then pivot ball thru T plate, then other round black plastic piece on bottom with screws going up, 2 long ones in front & 2 short ones in back. Sound right?


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## Robertw321 (Apr 26, 2002)

k1m said:


> I have the round black plastic piece on top with 4 nubs for the screws up, then pivot ball thru T plate, then other round black plastic piece on bottom with screws going up, 2 long ones in front & 2 short ones in back. Sound right?


K1m

If I'm reading this right it sounds like you have the bottom black piece under the T-plate. Both black pieces go on top. Piece with round bottom goes into hole in t-plate, than pivot ball, than top piece with nubs up. Screws go in from bottom side of T-plate. All that sticks out from the bottom of the T-plate is the screw heads and the bottom of the pivot ball.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

k1m said:


> Thanks for your help guys....I must have something pretty SNAFU. My steel pivot ball rattles around in the two black pieces like a peanut in a tin can. Even if I tighten the 4 screws right down tight it still moves up & down.
> I have the round black plastic piece on top with 4 nubs for the screws up, then pivot ball thru T plate, then other round black plastic piece on bottom with screws going up, 2 long ones in front & 2 short ones in back. Sound right?


I did the same thing! (Darn Bud instructions with crapy pictures) Make sure that both black pieces are on TOP of the T-plate!


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

HEY!!! That's better! I knew it was something dumb. Yeah, I had the black pieces sandwitching the T plate. Duh! Oh, man...now I gotta take it back apart and polish the ball... Can't wait to run this thing now. I think the body post positions are going to be the same as the SC18. Nice touch Bud!


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

You guys should know that!! Look at the picture real good.
K1M>> You can space the front screw slightly to get plate level. The batch of balls I got are slightly longer.
I try guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Micro >> thats pretty bad that you did that since you had the opportunity to look at a chassis and even find a long screw problem. You better watch it or team Ion may boot you :thumbsup: 
Kick it at Freddies


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

I know ...... Team Ion can't boot it's star!


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Bud, apparently these guys haven't ran Tplate pivot-ball pan cars before. That is a base knowledge mature racers who have ran the rocketships in 12th or 10th that feature pivot balls would know. So, it is inexperience with a pivot ball design that led to the mistake.
Heck, my first 12th scale was an Associated 12I without a pivot ball or Tplate and it had a monoshock front end. I've not raced more than I have over the past 18 years...
Better to find the mistake now than to need modified instructions after the car is released and in production with everything printed.

RAFster


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Are the Anodized Pivot Balls worth the upgraded price of around $9-12 for 2?
Wolfe Motorsports makes a pair of blue anodized pivot balls that are part number WM180-141 I believe. They run $9 at AAA Model Supply in NE Tennessee.

Then RPM makes a pivot ball of Delrin made for shock ends that looks like it 
might work as well. Not sure on it if the lengths from the center of the ball 
are the correct heights.

RAFster


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## swamp thing (Dec 24, 2003)

I would use the stock one or the delrin if it works. The anodized one just look cool


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Just use the stock one!!!!!!!!!!1


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

The stock setup works sweet when you put it together right! We've come a long way from the "o" ring already! I'll post some pix later. You guys know mine will be a Version 2 Fun Won - V2FW!

Maybe some of the "mature" racers will share their knowledge of the use of the tweak screws when I try to set this mini racer up.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Decent writeup of Tweak on One18th's site...
http://www.one18th.com/articles/chassistweak.php

RAFster


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## k1m (Sep 25, 2001)

*V2 Pics*

Pics of my now correctly assembled  V2!! Note: The antenna mount was added by me....everything else is what you'll get with the V2 conversion.

RAFster: Thanks for the links and info.

Thanks, everyone else too. The pivot ball suspension is smooth and tight!


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Looks good!!!! K1m When you have the rear bottom pod plate all squared up super glue it and the spacer plate to the T plate. This will prevent any shifting in those big wall hits. I just do the outside edges.
Hope to have the SC18 V2 on the web site this week. and the complete Kit by middle of Nov or so.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

In the same way you loosen the screw for the crush on the Oring for the SC18.v1; doesn't the tension on the pivot ball affect the rear pod in the same way.
The nice thing about the pivot ball is it won't change as much as the Oring will.
The Oring takes a set from being crushed and is not be as consistent as the Pivot ball. 
The pivot ball gives a nice smooth consistent feel.

Bud, sounds COOL! look forward to seeing it on the site and taking another look next weekend at the full scale version.

RAFster


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

oh man... i must have been sleeping =) i need to get in on this action here1


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## Shane Mugavin (Oct 1, 2004)

okay stupid question here, I am thinking of buying one and making a track for it how narrow could I make the lanes and be too narrow. Will probably have four cars at a time on it.


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

I would not go less that 3 ft.


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

The SC18 V2 is on the web site. Complete kit coming soon!! SC18 V2


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## Shane Mugavin (Oct 1, 2004)

Thanks Mr. Bartos and as far as the other post about no one remembering you and all you have done. I remember you sent your pre-entry in for a race at Hi-tech hobbies in Cincy around the early 90's and you would of thought the president was going to make a visit their. That's all people talked about for a month then you showed up and they talked about you years later. Glad to see you still kickin butt.


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

So they should have paid that entry for Me  
I wish I had a $100.00 for every trophy that I won over the years I could retire or maybe if I had all the $$ it cost to win them I could retire :thumbsup: 
That was a great oval track down there.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

OK Final Thoughts on the V2.​ 

I have 3 races under my belt with the V2 chassis. I admit I wasn’t in a big hurry to change from my stock chassis. Let’s face it; it took me 3 years to understand/tweak the stock chassis. Lot’s of small modifications were in my stock chassis, a shim here a re-design their. And that is the beauty of the V2 – out of the box it comes with the pivot ball and tweak set screws. The plastic battery tray is replaced with a full fiber glass chassis that now accepts the much better 2/3A cells. The car is great in the corners and smoother in the straits.





If you don’t have the V2, I would HIGHLY recommend getting the upgrade kit, or you can now buy the full V2 assembly.

:roll: :roll:


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Yes I watched the stock class and the V2 looked good out there. I think a big part is the new 2/3 A cells that seem to be faster.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

*I have the V2 Assembly Guide DONE!*​​​If you would like a word copy, please email me. It is 11MB, so if you don't have high speed internet please wait for Bud to post it on his web site.​​​​


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## okracer (Mar 11, 2002)

can u order a new v2 in kit form


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Hope to have it ready in a couple of weeks.


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

Micro_Racer said:


> *I have the V2 Assembly Guide DONE!*​
> 
> 
> 
> ...


if you send it to me, i can make a pdf out of it for you and possibly reduce its size some.. i can possibly even host it for you if you want..

[email protected]

thanks


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

RCMits -- check your email...Bud has made some edit's....he will post on his web site........ the front spring picture is not correct....it should go spring, green spring holder, e-clip......the white washer is used for the front tire....


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## GiantScale (Sep 12, 2002)

*V2 car kit?*

When will the V2 be available as a car kit? I need the whole car.


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

I hope to have it all ready by next Monday.


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## patrevo (Nov 5, 2004)

Does the new kit include the bearings?


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

No they do not. Rear uses oil lite bushings fronts run right on the delrin wheels.
They should be on the web site by 11-15


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

patrevo said:


> Does the new kit include the bearings?


i run the version 1 of this car.. and have bushings in the back and just run off the delrin wheels up front. there really is no problem =)


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, my LHS is opening a 18th scale track and Bud has the complete V2's out, so I know what Im getting soon. I have no idea what the track is going to be like, so is there a good "all around" body (out of the four that are avalible with the V2) or do they pretty much handle the same?

also, Bud, how long is the V2 gonna be on sale for 89.95?


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

Bud -- what is the R for in the RSC-18 V2?


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

The SC18 V2 is now on line click here to check it out 
The R is a mistake.
For road course go with the Sal-7. Sale will be for some time 

Get them NOW !!! SC18 V2 car kits


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## GiantScale (Sep 12, 2002)

Just about to order. But can you tell me which compound foams are included in the V2 car kit?

Iv read that orange fronts & blue or green rears work well on carpet. Which rears give the best traction for acceleration & cornering?

Im getting the 52 tooth spur & #325 pod plates for a GP 370. Ball bearing fronts. The Diff.

Did I forget anything??

Thanks


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

If you order on line just make a note about orange fronts and if you want them for BB and I will substitute them for you. How big is the track you will be running on?


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## GiantScale (Sep 12, 2002)

Its a oval course (carpet strips duct taped together)& the corners are two orange road cones about 20'-25' apart. Id like to install bearings in the rear pod so I need some space & will try the 9/52 combo.

My home made brp diff axle didnt fit into 1/8th bearings so I chucked it up in the lathe & sanded it a touch smaller so it would slide into the bearings. Will I have to do that with the new diff I order as well?


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Yes you will have to sand slightly.


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

The SC18 V2 is now on line click here to check it out
The R is a mistake.
For road course go with the Sal-7. Sale will be for some time

Get them NOW !!! SC18 V2 car kits


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