# Airfix Tardis Build-Up Thread



## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

I thought you folks might like to see my progress with the new Airfix Tardis kit as I've been running a similar thread over on SFM.UK.

You'll need to watch how you detatch the sprues as some of the attatchments are a bit chunky...better leaving a bit on then sanding it back.
The small door has got four prominent sink holes on the back which need filling.
The only disappointment is the prominent seam down the front of the large clear tube on the control panel. This needs sanding off then the scratches polishing out with some T-cut or plastic polish.
If you remove the four screws around the battery compartment and can use a soldering iron then you can extend the battery leads outside the model which allows the lid to be glued in place to create a stronger model.
Unfortunately the sound duration is built into the chip so can't be extended.

First mistake I've found in the instructions is in Step 1.

Parts 21 and 22 are shown transposed. The smaller part 21 fits in the _bottom_ of part 22, not the top as illustrated.

The other thing I find strange is that the instructions suggest painting a herringbone brick pattern on the floor but the floor is totally smooth which means a nightmare of masking or free-hand painting. Surely Airfix could have moulded this pattern in?
Anyway I decided I couldn't face hand painting the herringbone pattern so I went for the concrete look...just various drybrushed greys, most of 
this will be invisible anyway...



I installed the windows in each section, you can't go wrong here as Airfix have moulded different size tabs to prevent you from glueing them in upside down.It's a good idea to mark the three complete "walls" with their part numbers as they are not identical on the inside face. 



I masked them using Scotch Magic tape as I've found this gives perfect demarcation lines without a ragged edge. I very lightly apply a piece of tape then burnish it into all the edges of the frame using a cocktail stick. Then very carefully run a brand new X-Acto No 11 blade along the frame edges and peel off the excess tape, not forgetting the little pieces left on the face of the frames.Finally burnish the tape into the corners again.
I've discovered that you can leave this tape on for weeks and it still peels off without any problems, unlike some masking tapes which tend to dry out.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Once the cement was dry the rear face of the glass was given two coats of Humbrol 28. Once this has dried overnight I'll overcoat it with the interior colour.



The four parts that fit around the lid have slight sink marks on the undersides which require filling.



The small door has four prominent ejector marks which need dealing with...I also decided to add some plastic strips to the interior part to busy it up a little. 
A word of caution though...the "communicator"(?) which fits to the back of the door is a very snug fit when the door is closed. I only found this out after I had lined the recess with the strips and was then forced to cut out a square section in the centre to allow this....aarrgghh!


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Here's the control console prior to installation.
I had no real reference for this as I haven't seen the programme much and the pics on the internet are a bit murky.
Paints are a mixture of Humbrol enamels,Games Workshop
and Tamiya.











Note the green glow inside the central tube...this is a small piece of flourescent paper which is included but which I almost threw away thinking it was a packing slip!

I've now assembled the three sides and the base and installed the interior. The glued walls are best left to dry overnight before attempting to fit the card background as it has a tendency toforce the sides apart. I ended up rolling it fairly tightly around the tube from a kitchen roll to maintain an even curve. Even then it wasa struggle to fit and I resorted to using double-sided tape to secure each end against the walls.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

The console assembly fits fairly easily but needs to be pushed right back to ensure the feet meet the ground.
I decided to fit a strengthening piece of thick plastic card to ensure the sides stay square.
I'll paint this black before I fit the front wall.
If you decide to do this don't forget to allow room for the door mechanism and speaker in the roof.



Another thing to note is the gap left around the walls on the outside.This will need careful filling.



Here's the front fitted and the view through the door...
If I ever build another one of these (which I doubt)I think I'll just glue the door shut!


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## X15-A2 (Jan 21, 2004)

Wow, I didn't even know that there was a kit of the TARDIS! Very cool.


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

Oooh, kewel! How big is this kit?


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

It's 1/12th scale Griff...here's the review...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=205771


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

After much fiddling about I decided that the lid really must be glued on.
As supplied it is a very poor fit and has a tendency to slide from side to side.
I found some fine wire so I could extend the battery leads through the base.
The roof assembly containing the light and sound features was taken apart and the circuit board unscrewed and lifted clear of the battery compartment.





The battery wires were cut and the entire battery housing was removed, first by scribing with an Olfa P-Cutter and then finishing with a sharp blade taking care not to nick any of the remaining wires.
A new length of lead was then soldered to each battery wire on the circuit board and the whole assembly was screwed back together.





At this point I checked everything was still functioning and then fed the new lead down behind the card insert and out of a hole I had cut in the base.
The battery compartment can be reconnected once I have sited it on a diorama base.



I then glued the roof on taking care to engage the switch mechanism with the pin on the top of the door.
You need to eyeball that everything looks square and parallel before applying liquid cement around the lid since,if you push it too far towards one edge it will leave a gap on the opposite edge.



At this stage I also filled the prominent gap in the plinth using Liquitex Acrylic Gesso.
This is available from artists suppliers. The advantage of this is that it can be applied using a cocktail stick and any excess wiped off with a soft brush thus negating the need for sanding.



All that's left to add now are the door handles and the light on top but I'll crack on with the painting first...


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## Arronax (Apr 6, 1999)

I'll be following your progress with great interest since my order should have been shipped from Marquee Models (I gave up on Hannants because Marquee actually had the model in stock). 

In eager anticipation, I'm wondering how you plan to do the pinstriping on the Doctor's pants and the design on Martha's shirt. I had thought about creating decals. How do the instructions suggest painting these?

Jim


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

man i am achin for mine to come in!


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Arronax said:


> In eager anticipation, I'm wondering how you plan to do the pinstriping on the Doctor's pants and the design on Martha's shirt. I had thought about creating decals. How do the instructions suggest painting these?


The truthful answer Jim is that I've no idea!... I started putting the figures together last night and luckily the Doctors legs and the front of his waistcoat(or "vest" as I think you guys like to call it) can be painted separately and then assembled.
As for Matha's shirt...well let's just say there are some compound curves  to deal with so maybe decals would be harder to do...


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

The interior is 1/6 scale.

Huzz


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

miniature sun said:


> It's 1/12th scale Griff...here's the review...
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=205771


D'Oh! Mea culpa! I forgot about having read that review a while back. Thanks for the link. Hope it goes smoothly for you, as well.


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## Arronax (Apr 6, 1999)

Miniature Sun, I don't know if you've got to this yet but the heads, hands, arms and, for some reason, the Doctor's shoes are vinyl parts. The plus side is that the detail is really good. The downside is that the mold seams are hard to get rid of. 

Modelers should note that if they plan to paint the kit with enamels, they won't work on these vinyl parts. You can use the paints supplied with the kit which, curiously, do not seem to include the flesh color needed for Doctor. 
 

Jim


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

Jim,
A nice coat of acrylic primer should fix the vinyl/enamel problem.

Rob


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## Arronax (Apr 6, 1999)

veedubb67 said:


> Jim,
> A nice coat of acrylic primer should fix the vinyl/enamel problem.
> 
> Rob


True. But I'm reluctant to apply any extra coats of paint since the details is so good.

I can manage with the acrylics for these parts and was offering my two cents for anyone who hasn't worked with vinyl before.

Jim


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I might have to wait until the exchange rate turns around.

Or bribe a friend up in Hull to get one for me.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

mine just came in today! wonderful kit

i need to figure out a good way to illuminate the column


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## Marco Scheloske (May 16, 2000)

Very inacurate.

The interior isn`t bigger than the exterior...  :wave: :lol:


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

Arronax said:


> True. But I'm reluctant to apply any extra coats of paint since the details is so good.
> 
> Jim


Well, whatever you decide, I'm sure it'll be another WonderFest award winner! Looking forward to seeing it finished.

Cheers
Rob


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