# Brush Painting Plastic Models



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Hi Folks, I'm a longtime Star Trek Modeler and of course I have learned and improved my model building skills over the years. I have mastered brush painting over entire models to the point where they look spray painted. As far as detail painting goes I do a good job and I have learned that some paints brush better than others and rather than try to get perfect results, I strive to do the best that I can and thats good enough for me. I am working on an A.M.T./Ertl Movie Enterprise from Star Trek III and have done some detail painting in semi gloss black. I hand painted the Flux Chillers Semi Gloss Black and the Torpedo bay and Warp drive coverings on the Nacelles and it came out nicely on some areas. And on others it didn't self level as well and I was careful. Bottom line is this, I have learned that brush painting has its limitations no matter how good you are at it. Please voice your opinions about what you think of brush paintng as well as your results both Good and Bad. Thanks, Guy Schlicter.


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

Enamels I find are easier to get a smooth surface. Acrylics, not so much. Drying time I'm sure is the reason.

A coat, of acrylic especially, needs to thoroughly dry before top coating, or the first coat will liquefy resulting in lumps, blotches, unevenness.

Flat acrylics tend to level pretty well. I try to work as fast as I can though just the same, so the paint is still wet and doesn't get blotchy.

I only brush paint for details, or touch ups. Or occasionally, if it's just too difficult to mask something off. I can't even imagine trying to paint an entire model by hand--kudos to you that you can do it!

I really enjoy masking, so it's an airbrush for me.


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## Fraley1701 (Sep 3, 2003)

Guy - 
I believe you can get amazing results by hand painting models. It has much to do with paint consistency and a bit can be contributed to the quality of the paint brush you use. When I did this model years ago, it was entirely hand painted and several people could not believe I did not use an airbrush. I think now days, I approach figure modeling with a hybrid method as far as technique is concerned. I like to airbrush my flesh tones and base coats on figure models and hand paint my shadows, highlights, and details. For non figure kits, I prefer to airbrush everything but the details. The airbrush for me has an advantage of applying paint in thinner layers and no brush strokes. However, if you get your paint thinned enough, you can minimize brush strokes when hand painting as well. :thumbsup:


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## John O (Mar 8, 2000)

machgo said:


> Enamels I find are easier to get a smooth surface. Acrylics, not so much. Drying time I'm sure is the reason. A coat, of acrylic especially, needs to thoroughly dry before top coating, or the first coat will liquefy resulting in lumps, blotches, unevenness.


It sounds to me like you are describing the behaviour of Tamiya acrylics, which are not true arcrylics. The way they re-active is completely maddening.

For the artist acrylics I use, once they are dry to the touch, they are ready for the next layer. And that is the key with any paint, know what they are good at and exploit it rather than fight it. Acrylics are really good at transparent and transluscent layering.

I paint my models almost completely by hand now, working in artist's acrylics over top of a neutral gray lacquer automotive primer. I find I have more fun than I did when I used an airbrush exclusively, no more masking, and masking, and masking. If I want to slow the drying time to get larger coverage, I add either a little retarded or glazing liquid. Faster, I hit 'em with a hair dryer to speed things up. I find I have MUCH more control and my pieces reflect my theatrical style of painting.

Here are some examples of my models painted entirely by hand:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jeovington128/ModelPaint
(except for the cars at the end of the album)

John O.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

John O said:


> Here are some examples of my models painted entirely by hand:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/jeovington128/ModelPaint
> (except for the cars at the end of the album)


Beautiful work, John. Thanks for reminding us of another option.


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## Fraley1701 (Sep 3, 2003)

John O said:


> Here are some examples of my models painted entirely by hand:
> http://picasaweb.google.com/jeovington128/ModelPaint
> (except for the cars at the end of the album)
> 
> John O.


Inspiring work John! Great examples of what can be done with a paint brush!

:thumbsup:


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## Darkstar (Jan 27, 2010)

Ditto, I really like that paint scheme on your Vor'cha.


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## ryoga (Oct 6, 2009)

John O

That's incredible. I had always sort of looked down on hand painted kits but I'm beginning to realise when this skill is mastered well, the end results can be incredibly mind boggling. Your work in that album are amazing


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

I do brush painting using mostly Tamiya, Polly Scale, and craft acrylics. I've found each brand has its own unique way of thinning, I virtually never use water as that tends to break down the binder. Generally I will use a little bit of alcohol, I have heard some use windshield washer fluid with good results, would like to try that. Quite often I will add some Future even if it's flat paint, to me, it seems to help it flow a little better. I have both expensive brushes as well as a package of something like eight or 10 brushes with relatively stiff white nylon bristles, relatively inexpensive and for whatever reason, I seemed to get better results with those. I go extremely light with the brush probably between 30° and 45°, normally the bristles barely even bend and I normally don't load the brush up with paint unless I'm going for a larger area. I seem to get pretty good results and rarely get brush strokes, I usually only get those if the paint starts thickening up.

I picked up a bunch of three ounce travel bottles at Wal-Mart, something like $.87 each, I just pour the bottle of paint in there along with alcohol, Future, medium, retarder, or anything else or any combination of the above that that brand works best with. That way I can just shake it up and it's ready to go, the top flips up and I can just put a couple drops on some tinfoil or in a medicine cup. I also just started putting a couple BB's into each bottle, I picked up a bottle of 4000 Daisy Zink covered BB's for something like eight dollars, the Zink covered ones aren't supposed to corrode.I also just picked up a package of 750 3/4 inch circular labels off of eBay for $3.50, now I can stick a label on top of the bottle so I can remember exactly what's in it! I had used a permanent marker on top, which wasn't permanent!

I'm still learning and probably always will, it's becoming more fun.I still remember seeing the picture in a old Scale Modeler (I'm positive I don't have it anymore) of a 1929 roadster that had the smoothest and deepest black paint job I had ever seen on a model, I was thinking it was just unreal, then I read that he painted it with a brush!


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## John O (Mar 8, 2000)

slingshot392 said:


> I've found each brand has its own unique way of thinning, I virtually never use water as that tends to break down the binder.


Yes. It's a good idea when thinning, to add in some binder/medium. The binder weakens and it becomes easier to scrub up a dried layer when applying the next. With the artist's acrylics, I usually use a matt medium to beef up the binder a touch in my washes. 

Technically, when you add a medium to a colored wash or add color to a medium to acheive a translucent or transparent color, it is referred to as a "glaze." A glaze should also not be confused with "gloss," which of course describes the reflective quality of a shinny finish (gloss, semi-gloss, satin, matte, etc.).

John O.


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## Demoriel (Jan 4, 2010)

Great photos John. Nice work :thumbsup:




John O said:


> It sounds to me like you are describing the behaviour of Tamiya acrylics, which are not true arcrylics. The way they re-active is completely maddening.
> 
> For the artist acrylics I use, once they are dry to the touch, they are ready for the next layer. And that is the key with any paint, know what they are good at and exploit it rather than fight it. Acrylics are really good at transparent and transluscent layering.
> 
> ...


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