# Great Armatures!!!



## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Wasn't sure where to post this, but here it is! I did some swapping with Tjetsgrig and got a couple of his pancake re-winds. Man are these things are SWEEEEEEETTTT!!!! They absolutely fly and are as smooth as silk. He built up a 2-lam and a 4-lam armature for me. I have them set up in a couple of drag race chassis and they are among my very fastest cars now, if not the fastest. Of course I need to race them all to be sure, but I will gladly work my way though it

Jim winds a mean arm!
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

-Paul


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Thanks Paul!!
I did get to finish and fit one of the panel bodies, just gotta get some pics to post. Great bodies that very nicely on the 4gear chassis, great proportions!! Great canvas for some custom paint! I'm gonna put it on one of my 4gear Pro Stock chassis! Excellent weight distribution! Don't even need a wheelie bar. I had it set up to run in our stock 4gear class, but, unfortunately, it was not allowed......needed to be "stock" bodied as well. I advise getting one from Paul!!!

Jim Sgrig


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

pshoe64, I agree, excellent arms for all purposes. and always reasonably priced.


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## crosley (Aug 20, 2010)

*Hey*

Hey tjetgrig let me in man.How bout a 3 lam 16ohm arm for a tjet or magna traction.Is it possible?
Thanks
Bart(crosley)yes I own one


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

crosley said:


> Hey tjetgrig let me in man.How bout a 3 lam 16ohm arm for a tjet or magna traction.Is it possible?
> Thanks
> Bart(crosley)yes I own one



Bart......you have a PM!!


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## guinnesspeanut (Sep 25, 2009)

*Arms??*

Might as well ask the guy who makes em.. I'm a bit confused. Ohms seem to be all over the place, even after over 50 years of HO slots. Ohms seem to be referred to more than anything else, except maybe magnet strength. The lower the number, the better? But that can't be right because if you get a zero, the arm is defective. I started on a quest trying to scrounge parts to fill a dozen XLerator bare chassis. The arms from these are sometimes quite expensive, but I don't know which ones.. I bought a pair of 4 Gear top plates, then pulled the pinion off and tapped it back on. The XLerator whizzed to life, a lot faster than it was before. That's why I'm confused. If the XLerator arms are so great, why did I get such good results from the 4 gear arms?? While I'm at it, if you happen to have any XLerator clamshell tops or spider plates with that bushing, you have a ready buyer. Any info here greatly appreciated.


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## copperhead71 (Aug 2, 2007)

bump..no answers???


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Different ohms make a chassis behave differently, and you need to tailor the ohms along with the strength of the magnets to get maximum results for your intended purpose. Generally, the lower the ohms, the faster the arm. If you're doing straight line drag racing stuff, the ohms can be as low as 2. You'd be hard pressed to drive a chassis with a drag arm on a road course. I think (and will probably be wrong here) the tough ones arms (6 ohm) were designed with lower voltage in mind. For a road course type chassis, I found the ones I ran across way too fast to control with a 90 ohm controller. Granted, the controller I used may not have helped the situation. 16 to 18 ohm arms tend to be slower (which is better for me) and are very drivable on a twisty turny track. Once you determine what type of driving you're going to do, then you can pick the stuff that'll make it work for you. Xlerators use a quadrelam (4 stacks) and ohm on the low end of the spectrum. The go fast crowd's desires make those particular arms expensive. I'm sure Jim Sgrigs can help you out way more than I can, but since no one else has answered, I'll throw my limited knowledge out here.


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Good job SCM! That is some pretty good info! Although, with a double or triple wind, you can go with lower ohms for road racing. The characteristics of a multible wind are more capacity and better heat load/disipation performance. That's why the SuperII went with the double wind.

JS


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## guinnesspeanut (Sep 25, 2009)

I don't remember where I saw it, but slot car jargon for magnets is a bit different(might be wrong here).. When I look for magnets outside of slots, they're measured by 'pull strength', but it's called something else here. Can someone fill in the blanks for me? I'm also looking for magnet zapper plans, if anyone has them... I'd prefer something that works with a 12 volt car battery or lawn tractor battery if it's an option, as both can be made available and trickle charged when I'm done. I know the cost will be up there, but I have a lot of old toys, some using electricity, some batteries. remagnetizing them here at my own pace is preferred to sending them out all the time. I'm pretty sure I have most of the parts here already anyways..


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

for what you can build one for you can buy a professional built unit. a simple search engine will probably show lots of sources from used to brand new. 
I have a Trik Trax unit and it cost $600+ brand new. there are lesser costing manufacturers.

http://www.dogpile.com/info.dogpl/search/web?q=magnet+zapper

.


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