# New Routed Track



## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

I have my track design, router, bits, MDF and most of what is needed to get started.
However I have a few questions that need to be answered.

1. Should I paint the track surface after routing the guide slot, but before routing the rail slot as the paint thickness could effect rail height ?

2. Upon test fitting the 16 guage wire I will be using for the contact rail, it is evident that there should be some type of adhesive applied in the rail slot before installing the rail. What glue/adhesive etc should be used ?

3. Should the ends of the MDF have a sealer applied to help prevent the material from flaking or coming apart.

My plan is to route the track design directly into the 1/2" MDF table top thereby eliminating the need to cut out the track pieces. The bridge section will be the only piece of track that will be cut from material of 1/4" MDF. Guard rail post made from dowel rods inserted into table with stips of plastic attached to serve as the guard rails.
The power supply is a Pyrimid variable 12 to 18 volt @30 Amps. Track will consist of 6 lanes all of equal length. Each control station to have a 1/4" stereo phone plug for the controller, 4 amp breaker and power indicator lamp. The lap counter and timer will be of the photocell type. 
Doing this for the kids at Church . . . . and me too !
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I have not built a track in since 1968. You got it, I'm old, retired, and have too much time for playing with cars !


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

I'd route the guide slot and rail slot, just in case you have a boo boo that needs repair, it does happen...
If you will use a small foam roller and paint in thin coats, you shouldn't get that much paint into your slots, that would make a difference. Roll slowly as you will see air bubbles, but they should dissolve/go away. Do some test painting on a scrap board. The paint, on the edege of the slot, can actually help hold your rail in place, depending on your rail type.
I think I used a little Gorrila glue in my slots. Go to a Tractor Supply or farm supply and you can buy syringes and the needles that work great. Just grind off the sharp needle point, should fit right in your slot, just a thin line...
Not sure sealing would help the "flaking" of MDF. Again test first, as the wet moisture from sealing, could cause the MDF to swell. I didn't have any problem except on tight turns. I would prebend my rail if necessary. Keep a piece of PVC pipe or something round handy to bend your rail around when necessary as you lay your rail in place...Hope this helps and also keep in mind that opinions may vary...RM


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

what about a roller Hilltop? I guess he could use the PVC pipe to roll the rail into the slot. If it were me, and you are not going to cut out the track, I would paint the whole sheet before I started routing, or at least the rough path of the track. You are going to have to use multiple coats anyway, so the first one would be a lot easier without the slots cut in. Also, MDF=DUST. If you can rout outside the dust problem is much easier managed, all you need is a particle mask and use the wind to your advantage. Inside is another story. At the least, tape up your openings on your router and run a rag around it's base that trails the router to keep the dust in your slot. If you have a wet vac hook that up to your router. It is more complicated dealing with the hose and not being able to see the path of the router. Rout by sound, you don't want to push the router too fast and heat up the router and the bit, the motor shouldn't be bogging down. Lots to deal with if you are inexperienced, but remember mistakes aren't a big deal. You can fix them with rock hard plaster putty or bondo, or just about any hard setting wood type filler. I got my knowledge to do it on the web, there are some really good tutorials and I learned enough to take the plunge. I'm on my third one, not an expert by any means, but I like the process and the result of " I did that".


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

TomH said:


> what about a roller Hilltop? I guess he could use the PVC pipe to roll the rail into the slot.


I meant prebending the rail around a piece of PVC or something round, to fit a tight curved slot, to keep the MDF from breaking (less pressure), depending on what you use for rail... Yes the roller will work for pushing your rail down into the slot...Again, it depends on what type of railing you are using... Some use stiching wire with a locking wire, some use round wire, some use fishtape, etc... Not sure what you were using for your rail TomH??? Would like to know as I'm always eager to learn/improve...RM


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

I will be using 16 guage anealed rebar tie wire for the contact rail. It's fairly easy to bend/pre-shape. 
Back to the glue/adhesive for the rail.. . . . would it be better to use something with a consistency of "liquid nail" or "construction adhesive" ? Seems it may allow for a better "pressed-in-fit" allowing for a more flowing adhesive bed of glue and possibly be stronger or better gripping.


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

I don't have any experience with wire, Hilltop built a super and I mean super track using wire and he used Gorilla glue. His track has stood the test of time, I wouldn't change a winner technique.


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

Guess I will pick up some Gorilla Glue from Tractor Supply tomorrow. Need to finish the radial arm for the router and then get started on the table frame.
I have plenty of time to do this so the main thing is to do it the right way. 
I believe in planning several times and doing once !
I really do appreciate the input on this project and will take photos and post them for others to view. Once I get started on this thing I may not be posting every day but will keep updates coming in.
Thanks Again;
Yancey/Road Rat


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

Here is something that is the direction I have gone. Not knowing your skill level with a router or what type of racing you prefer, magnet or no mag. I have found that with a bit of copper shoe tuning, making sure that the whole contact patch is completely flat I can run without the wire mod. But after watching this video, this looks like a better way to go on an inline type car.
http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?t=69006


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

I like running the "pancake" motors. The Ultra G is ok for the kids. I don't care for those cars that never, or can't come off the track due to so much magnetic pull. Powerful magnets take all the skill out of the fun. The inline cars are ok, but I either put on over size tires on the rear or take the mags out. I've seen some cars where the magnets have been relocated so close to the rail that they will sometimes drag. . . . . I don't get it. I like the road course. If all one wants to do is have the fastest car without track skill, then just run a straight line. . . . think there's a name for that kind of racing ! 
I like that video of the copper tape track, looks great !
I have to keep in mind that the kids at church will be racing on the track and will be using the Ultra G chassis.
For some reason I get the feeling that some of the older kids like me will be wanting to build a second track !
Yancey/Road Rat


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

It is addictive to some of us, I am on my third and I hope this track will do it. My first was a 1/32 copper, but I ran mostly H.O. on it. I used a piece of scrap plywood over a hollow core door I had set up a plastic track on. BTW "the boys" killed 4 of the eight super g car's on the plastic, and three fly 1/32's on the wood, but they couldn't kill the pancakes. they could cripple em but I could always bring em back to life. The first attempt worked pretty good, but not really smooth enough for H.O. I think it was exterior c/d grade and I filled a few gaps and voids but I was thinking 1/32 and they did great. Next one was sanded shop grade plywood, 3 lane copper oval. Couple of coats sanding sealer, then long board sanded followed with flat black latex. Super smooth with good predictable traction. I liked it the most, but the boys didn't like it as much. I could run 3 H.O.'s or two 1/43's side by side. Pretty cool with other racers. Gave it to one of my boys friends who really needed the track. The next one is going to be my dream track. A landscaped timed one lane 4x8 road course, one long back straight for a breather and a twisty hilly infield that most of the tough stuff can be reached while I am sitting in my nice cushy chair. I just need to get motivated, went and retired and now I am not worth a plug nickle, been buying minibikes and built a pretty cool little track. I have one that I have hot rodded the lawn mower motor, header, rejetted the carb, different intake and filter and messed with the timing. It keeps bucking me off. I need to get a slot track back up and running, and get back into casting. I am getting tired of drooling over what the guys are doing around here.


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## chappy2 (Jan 7, 2013)

Hello, I. Was wondering how t jets run on a copper tape track?


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

ratrod sounds like you have a good idea what you want to do and have the previous skills to route your next one out. I have 2 under my belt and thinkin hard about a third one this spring.i my case I primed all 6 sides of the mdf and I have repainted it. as for paint I,d use an oil based primer and paint. oil penetrates into the mdf Playtex just sits on top of. so my opinion is use oil. I didn't and wished I did. in my case I routed out of the lanes(guide pin and power rails) then prime/ paint.as for the size of your trak mdf does come in 5 foot widths so you can forget about that chair thing lol.besides soon as you start to take it easy that's when you,ll seize up! also rethink length.. the lil tjets need some room to stretch their legs out.so in a nutshell foam roller ,oil base and bigger is better!! best of luck to ya and will be watching progress. there is help here if needed hilltop was helpful to me...thanx hilly!!


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

HINT*

Have your primer tinted to match your surface paint! :thumbsup:


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

My suggestion would be if your gonna route, try not to make it look like something that can be done with section track. In your plan right above the long straight, why not make that a long sweeping curve? 
Also everybody does esses myself included on my 1/32 routed but, I didn't make them look too symmetrical, give them a little change in the radius.

Though I'm quite happy going from HO to 1/32, I would be lying if I would say I don't miss it. My plans this summer are to finish the HO routed dragstrip, build a 1/32 trioval and if time and most importantly funds permit a routed copper tape HO track.

Lots of luck on you build.

Tycoarm/Tycosaur


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*Routed Ho Scale*

I used a version of Tracker 2000 to do a layout. I have thought about making a long sweeping banked curve at the end of the straight. After playing around with Tracker 2000 for a while I learned how to make any size curve I wanted. Tracker program has given me a general pattern to go by. I have everything ready to get started, just waiting for the snow, rain, cold or what ever else mother nature has in store. Due to the "DUST FACTOR" of the MDF this is an outdoor project when it comes to the routing and cutting !
30+cars and no track to run them on . . . . I have a fever !


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

Glad you are back. I would look hard at your overpass design. I had a setup very similar to yours and I had big problems with the curves that close. Counter clock was worse, but either direction, when the cars quit sliding/rolling I would have to dig them out from under there. I had a plastic setup almost identical. My top straight went to the left end, and my bottom straight didn't have the upward leg. If were me, I would flip flop the elevation, take the kink out of the second leg from the bottom and get the longest straight I could before going under the bridge.


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

Another problem you might encounter...I did anyway. When you elevate your track, that is like building a wall, so if you have another leg of track too close on a lower level, there isn't enough room to put track borders for slide outs.


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

Routed the guide slot in my 1st curve this morning. Cut the outside slot with a radial arm and then did the copy method as suggested by Hilltop. Using a spare set of axles for the guide on the router base plate spaced at about 1" apart worked great. I used a short piece of straight track to set the width of the guide slots. Only took about 5 minutes to cut all 6 lanes. I will use the axles again and adjust the spacing to cut the rail slots.
I got the fever now . . . . but I know that you can't rush the work or it just won't turn out right. 
Yep, I got the fever !!!


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

That is looking really good. Bet you were smiling after you set all your cars in the slots.:thumbsup:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

That's looking good RR...Now to connect the dots...
I think I see some GlasTech bodies in the mist of that lineup...RM


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

randy on the hilltop turned me on to the routerbase and axel spacers 4 years ago and the trak is a gas! thanx for passing that knowledge on randy.


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

I got a few of those bodies from you Hilltop. 
Yes I was grinnin like a possum eatin briars . . . . especially after I went back and cut in the rail slot. Those axles being used as guide pins on the router base worked GREAT ! Will start routing/copying lanes tomorrow if the weather will allow me to work outside. If not working on track I will work on some of the t-jet chassis. Picked up some brass tubing at the hobby store to make sleeve bearings. I want to install brass sleeve bearings in the armature holes and rear axle holes. Way to much slop in those areas of the chassis. 

I can not say enough how much I appreciate the suggestive help that all of you have shared. Thank you so very much; Yancey (Road Rat)


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Any updates RR ??? RM


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

No updates yet, the weather is keeping me insdie. Next week I will be going to Key West. When I get back I hope to do some major work on the project.


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*Progress*

I finally got a break with the weather . . . . went to Key West for a while.
But now back at the farm and got some work done on the track table this morning.
4 hours of work and the table is almost complete. I followed a pattern that was shown on another web site. I really think a little more frame work would be better, but one thing here is to not make it so heavy it can't be moved. The table legs will need more bracing to keep them from collapsing.
I used 2 pieces of 1/2" x 4 x 8 finished plywood for the table top. Lowes cut them for me. Each cut so to have a 32" x 48" and a 64" X 48". So far all the material I have needed was found at Lowes.
A good description and pattern for the table I am building can be found here:
http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Tables.html#5x12
The attached photos show the progress I made in 4 hours working alone.
I'm now ready to attach the plywood to the table frame using wood glue and wood screws. Every screw that is installed must be predrilled to keep the wood from splitting. When installing screws in the plywood table top one should use a counter sink. I suggest using #6 2" wood screws for attaching the plywood table top. Space the screw about every 10" apart. I would think that most could build the table top in 5 to 8 hours. No need to rush when the weather is like it has been this morning . . . .60+ degrees ! Just right working outside and having a cup of coffee nearby.
Materials so far:
(2) 1/2" x 4 x 8 plywood finished on both sides ----- table top
(2) 4" x 4" x 6 post -----------used for table legs
(7) 1" x 6" x 12 board ------- table framing
(3) 2" x 4" x 8 ---------------- table framing
(4) 3/8 x 6" bolts -------- bolts for table legs
(4) 3/8" wing nuts -------- use with bolts
(8) 3/8" x 1" flat washers -------- use with bolts
1 lb box of #8 X 2" wood screws
1 lb box of #6 x 1 1/2" wood screws
16 oz Wood glue

After getting the top glued and screwed I will start drawing a pattern for the track surface which will be made from 1/2" MDF.


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Nice work! Can't wait to see your progress. That website is awesome...and I think a lot of us got our start going by Greg's advice.

Looking forward to your journey!


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*track progress*

I have added stability to the table legs (see photos) and with the addition of long length braces and the way the center of the table is designed, I can now sit on the table without fear of it collapsing. It is extremely strong and steady, as my weight is 225 lbs. I glued the table top down with "liquid nail" and also used #8 screws spaced at every 11 inches. I used a straight edge and circular saw to cut the MDF in to 11" wide pieces for the straight sections of track. The curves were cut using the router with a 1/8" bit and a circular guide kit purchased from Lowes. ($35.00)
I cut the first guide slot in the straight sections making two passes with a straight edge. After cutting the first guide in each section I used the "copy method" to cut the remaining guide slots in each section. The "copy method" was suggested by HillTop and saved a lot of time. This morning I broke my last router bit so now I am at a stand still waiting for 1/16" bits. For all the cutting I have done I guess 2 bits is not bad. 
I'm taking my time, but it seems the task has gone by quickly so far.
I still have two 180 turns to cut and of course the rail slots. The rail slots should be easy on the router bits as they are shallow in depth.
So far I have 14 hours in the project. . . . so take a look at what I've gotten done.


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*update on track*

I am almost finished with all of the routing. Just 1 more curve to go. When came time to route the rail pocket all went very well. 6 lanes, 12 rail pockets and about 3 hours of routing very slowly. I did manage to do all the pockets with just 1 router bit. Routing the pin guide was a different story. After finishing the last curve I will set the structure for the bridge support, clean all the pockets and paint using Kilz oil based primer that has been tinted gray in hopes it will look like concrete. I had 2 or 3 bobbles with the router and have packed them with wood filler and will sand the affected areas tomorrow. I hope to be painting the track tomorrow evening.
6 lanes of racing ! I sure hope installing the rail goes as easy as everything else has.
So far I have around 25 hours in the project. Needles to say most of it has been in routing.


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Most impressive, sir!
I am very happy to see you chugging along.
Soon enough, you will have cars whizzing around
under their own power! It feels GREAT to race on
a track that you have created yourself! Man, what
a sharp looking layout. :thumbsup:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

That's a cool looking track!!! Like'n those long straights, great for full throttle racing. :thumbsup::thumbsup: RM


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*routing*

Well I finally got all whicker puckers and bobbles repaired. The routing done, all the slots and pockets cleaned and depth checked. I thought I would be painting this evening, but instead I went to Lowes to purchase wheel/casters with brake for the table. Had the wife lift the table with the tractor front end loader and I attached the casters. Now the table can be moved very easily. No need to have several people around just to move the table. Tomorrow . . . . . . . well it's the day of rest. . . . . .


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*Track Finished !*

The track is finished ! I had a little trouble getting the rail set to the proper height on the 1st lane. I rapped some tape around a short section of 3 inch pvc pipe so it would press the rail in to the proper height. The banked curves were a little difficult but all the flat sections went fast. The scenery and a few buildings are next. I used Loctite GO2 glue to hold the rails in place as it dries clear and is cleaner to work with.
Before installing the wire I cleaned it with Lacquer thinner to remove the oil residue. The support for the banked curves were made from 3/4 inch wood dowels inserted at the high side of the banks and the inside was attached to the table with wood screws and placed were they were needed to hold the inside radius down. The sections of banked curves were made from 1/4 inch MDF. All other sections were made from 1/2 inch MDF. All the mistakes and bobbles were filled with bondo.
It's time to race . . . . . 
Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas that were shared . . . . . . all of them were a great help !
Road Rat (Yancey)


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Awesome!! Got any pix of it all buttoned up? :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*after 8 weeks*

After 8 weeks of the kids racing the grey kilz is wearing thin in a lot of places. The track runs great ! Kids at church are wanting another track so they don't have to wait so long to get a lane to race on.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

consider epoxy paint.
KILLZ is good for cover up but maybe epoxy paint is more durable. I used it on 1/24 drag strips and was happy with the results.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

That's a good looking user friendly track!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Just looks fast!!! RM


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

Looks like a good place to lay down some serious laps.


Rob


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*track Info*

The track is very fast, but you do have to decelerate for the curves. Life Like and 440x2 cars run great on the track. Magnatraction cars also run well and even they require decel before getting into the curves. 
Each lane measures 48 feet +/- 1/4" .
I'm in the process of building a lap counter using "Race Coordinator" software. Setting up for photo-diode sensors.
"Race Coordinator" is 100% free and worth taking a look at !
The creator of the software does ask for a donation if one can do so, but it is not a must. I will say the donation is for a good cause and one that I support.
Being that the rail/wire is in place, I will use a stain for the track surface. I think paint or epoxy would go on too thick now and cause problems with good car to rail contact.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Wow this track looks great!!!!! Looks like they really like it!


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

I use the Race Coordinator software and photo cell set up and love it. and check out the fuel cell racing. Don't run outta gas too soon.


Rob


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

I would say leave it as is. But what do I know, I like dirt racing & going around in circles.

What is the Sombrero for? Is that a tip of the hat (pun intended) to Pedro at South of The Border?

Sorry where are my manners. That track looks terrific & it is a real good idea for a church.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

*nice new trak*

wow that trak came out very nice roadrat! looks like you have turned lots of laps on,er.i like the layout too just enough turns and straights. now it,s time to tear it down and build a new one!!lol. enjoy and use that baby up.:thumbsup:


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

It's fitting that it's in a church... Six lanes of heaven right there. I especially love the diagonal bits and the big curves. Nice work!!


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## lissaabostonn (Dec 17, 2013)

The track is very fast, but you do have to decelerate for the curves. Life Like and 440x2 cars run great on the track. Magnatraction cars also run well and even they require decel before getting into the curves.
Each lane measures 48 feet +/- 1/4" .
..................


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

Just wanted to say "Thank You" to "Slot Car Central" for their part in getting slot cars to the kids. Most of the kids have their own car(s) now. I bought cars and gave them out to all that wanted one. 
As for me, well the kids say I'm a little old to be playing with toys. They also say my old "pancake cars" are to slow and I hold up traffic. 
"I DON"T THINK SO !" 
Lately the track has been taken over by the "girls". They seem to be better drivers at high speed !
I thought about painting the surface again, but then why chance messing up a good running track with a coat of paint. I did install fuse holders and 2 amp fuses in the power lead to each lane as a safety precaution.
Being that I don't get much track time anymore, I am about to start on my second track.
Thinking about a 1/32 scale. My vision is not what it use to be and I have trouble seeing the small repair parts of Ho scale.
See you at the finish line . . . . . . Road Rat


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## Road Rat (Jan 8, 2013)

*A Year of Racing !*

Well it's now been almost a year of racing on the routed track I built. Everything is working well. Only repairs made were to me. Had heart surgery after crashing in turn one and falling off the table, but all went well and I made a "speedy" recovery :thumbsup:. I was not able to build a second track as of yet, but the plans are drawn and ready to start. 
I'm just an Ole man that still plays with cars ! 
See you at the "Finish Line" :wave:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=179166&d=1378686199


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## tonesua (Jul 1, 2006)

*Back in the driving wheel.*

great to hear that you're back at it. I remember this thread and was very impressed how this track turned out. Way to go. Send us some photos or movies of some racing!


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