# Stihl Pole Hedge Trimmer



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

Model is HL 100K. I am looking to change out the carburator diaphram and the dealer will only sell the complete rebuilt kit. The number on the carb is:

S88
416A

Does anyone know who made this carb and what the part number is for the diaphram. Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Most likely a Zama C1Q, but not absolutley sure without the carburetor body type and model.

If you look at the side with the adjustment screw, see if you can see anything cast into the body.

GND-55 Gasket & Diaphragm Kit 

For above referenced carburetor.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=61339&stc=1&d=1213753055
Zama_ID.pdf


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

*Thanks 30Year Tech*

I will see if I can ID it. Reaaly appreciate your help. Stihl dealers are crazy with their prices.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Well you got to understand, that if you are buying an OEM kit from Stihl, they are buying it from the manufacturer. They repackage add their markup and then sell to the dealer, who adds his markup before you the consumer buys it.

If you go direct to the carburetor mfg., you bypass one complete markup and save your self a little $$


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

*I know*

and have decided to go to the dealer. Its right on my way to work. By the time I go else where and factor gas it probably close to break even. I do appreciate you link since I know who manufactured the carb and I'm sure that will prove useful in the future.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

sod said:


> and have decided to go to the dealer. Its right on my way to work. By the time I go else where and factor gas it probably close to break even. I do appreciate you link since I know who manufactured the carb and I'm sure that will prove useful in the future.


If you can identify your carburetor, you may be able to purchase the kit from a local small engine dealer. Many dealers will stock Walbro, Zama and Tillotson carbuertor parts as well as the OEM brands. The diaphragm kit should run around $6.00 to $7.00 and a rebuild kit will generally cost around $10.00.

I generally recommend a rebuild kit, because if you are going through the trouble to disassemble and clean the carburetor, it just makes sense to replace the filter screen, inlet metering needle, fulcrum pin and metering lever, this insures everything is in tip top shape and you won't have to keep messing with it to make it work properly. :thumbsup:


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

*30yearTech*

Just wanted to say thanks for the help. I took your advice and did a complete rebuild. Put the carb back on and it started right up. The down side is that now I don't have an excuse for not trimming the shurbs.

One interesting thing I learned in this saga is that there is a huge difference in what Stihl dealers charge for parts. The dealer on my way to work wanted $20 for the rebuild kit and would needed a week to get it on order. A second dealer had the kit and had it priced at $12. Go figure.

Again thanks.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

sod said:


> Just wanted to say thanks for the help. I took your advice and did a complete rebuild. Put the carb back on and it started right up. The down side is that now I don't have an excuse for not trimming the shurbs.
> 
> One interesting thing I learned in this saga is that there is a huge difference in what Stihl dealers charge for parts. The dealer on my way to work wanted $20 for the rebuild kit and would needed a week to get it on order. A second dealer had the kit and had it priced at $12. Go figure.
> 
> Again thanks.


Your very welcome, glad to hear you got it going... :thumbsup:


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

I spoke too soon. I used the trimmer today. First, it was very hard to start unlike the other night when I rebuilt the carb. After I finally got it started, it ran for about 5 minutes and stopped and wouldn' restart. 

One thing I noticed is that the primer bulb was not showing much gas when I pushed it unlike the usual where it fills with gas when pumped. Any thoughts as to what is the problem and the rquired fix?

Thanks.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Possible dirty fuel pickup filter in the fuel tank. The bulb should fill up when pushed a fuel times.


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

That what I suspected. I will check it out. Do you suggest I get the stihl filter if that proves to be the problem, or will any weight fuel filter work?


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Any weighted fuel filter will work, however you need to be sure that the replacement filter fits snugly on the fuel line and is rated for the displacement engine you are installing it in.


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

I have been out of town so I finally got back to the trimmer repair project. I took the carb a part and found a small tin (a half hot dog bun shaped) item had become dislodged on the primer end of the carb. I think it may be a welch plug. I put it back together a couple of times and it would come off again when I pressurized the carb. I finally got it to stay and was able to get gas to the primmer bulb and the unit started and ran like a charm. But I suspect that the tin item may become dislodged again if not properly seated. So that is my question: What is the proper way to seat this thing to get is to stay?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

sod said:


> I have been out of town so I finally got back to the trimmer repair project. I took the carb a part and found a small tin (a half hot dog bun shaped) item had become dislodged on the primer end of the carb. I think it may be a welch plug. I put it back together a couple of times and it would come off again when I pressurized the carb. I finally got it to stay and was able to get gas to the primmer bulb and the unit started and ran like a charm. But I suspect that the tin item may become dislodged again if not properly seated. So that is my question: What is the proper way to seat this thing to get is to stay?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


There should have been a new one in the rebuild kit (if you did not discard the left over parts). They are usually concave in shape and when you install them, you tap on them lightly with a punch and hammer to flatten them out, this is what holds them in place. You can also paint over them with some finger nail polish, this will seal and help hold them in place as well.


----------



## sod (Apr 29, 2007)

Thanks 30yearTech. You are the Man. I very much appreciate your help.


----------

