# Warped part on TOS 1/350 Enterprise



## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

So on both my premier and standard edition kits, both my part 140 (the fan for the engine nacelles) has it's center attachment pole warpped and so it spins wobbley in the engine. Has anyone else noticed this problem with thier kit. I didn't think much about it with the first one since I was going to build the 2nd pilot version of the ISS Enterprise but I just got my second kit (standard edition) today and both of them are warpped as well. 

I'm assuming no one else has noticed since the lighting kit hasen't been released yet but since I'm using my own motors and LEDs I found this very troubling problem.

I could see it happening on one kit, but if it happened on a standard kit too, it tells my that maybe the parts are not being pulled out straight.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

tardis1916 said:


> So on both my premier and standard edition kits, both my part 140 (the fan for the engine nacelles) has it's center attachment pole warpped and so it spins wobbley in the engine. Has anyone else noticed this problem with thier kit. I didn't think much about it with the first one since I was going to build the 2nd pilot version of the ISS Enterprise but I just got my second kit (standard edition) today and both of them are warpped as well.
> 
> I'm assuming no one else has noticed since the lighting kit hasen't been released yet but since I'm using my own motors and LEDs I found this very troubling problem.
> 
> I could see it happening on one kit, but if it happened on a standard kit too, it tells my that maybe the parts are not being pulled out straight.


Yes mine are warped too as are some others who mentioned it as well. I spoke to Jamie and he said to go to Round 2 and print out the return parts form with the required info , and replacements would be sent out to you. I sent mine today


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Good to know R2 will make it right; not that I doubted they would. 

If you view Model Man Tom's last video over in his preview thread you'll notice the wobble with the fan blades: 









This seems to be a common problem.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Both of mine are too. I already sent in for replacement parts. I suspect they were pulled from the mold "hot" and the shaft sagged. Mine is a good 15 degrees off at least.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

Fozzie said:


> Both of mine are too. I already sent in for replacement parts. I suspect they were pulled from the mold "hot" and the shaft sagged. Mine is a good 15 degrees off at least.


Same with mine except 1 was good the other unusable without a lot of work.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Well they are the warp engines.... so shouldn't we have expected this? :tongue:

*runs*


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

BADUMP TISH! :thumbsup: LOL


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I hoped it was just the review kit that had the wobble.  I just got my 2nd kit today and haven't opened either.

If it is every single last one they are making, I sense an avalanche a-brewing!


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Yeah, I've still got to take a look at mine. I haven't pulled those parts out of the bags yet to see what shape they are in. But, if they are all like this, then it will create quite a mess.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

I just checked my standard kit (I also, have two unopened prem kits), and I, too, have a bent center rod on a 'propeller' dome. One looks 'OK'ish, but the other is way off. For me, it's the one more center on the tree. The one toward the end is better. I'm filling out my replacement form. Now I'm faced with opening my prem kits to see how those domes fare.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

By following the method below you should correct the problem.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Brilliant! I'll give it a try and let you guys know how I fair. I've got 4 parts and only need two so I can mess one up if I have too. :thumbsup:


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

A friend of mine opened his kit after he got wind of the problem and found he had the same problem, one good and 1 bad. He is expecting his 2nd kit from R2 on Monday and is going to open it and check the part as soon as it arrives.

It was the 2nd (center) piece in both of our kits as well so it seems that maybe this area of the mold isn't cooling as fast as the other areas.

He also wasn't to happy when he found out he would have to pay to replace the part because he didn't want to cut the box up for the upc code. To quote him "They (R2) have had me on file for months, sent me emails, hyped the special collectors box, took my payment, processed my order, shipped me the model, and now they want ME to prove I bought the model by cutting up the box!"

Hate to say it but he does have a point about the box.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

An invoice should be sufficiant. It says UPC and/or reciept.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I have't been able to test mine without the motor from the light kit so don't know but suspect mine will be the same.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Yeah mine has teh same thing. 1 barely warped the other fine.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

swhite228 said:


> A friend of mine opened his kit after he got wind of the problem and found he had the same problem, one good and 1 bad. He is expecting his 2nd kit from R2 on Monday and is going to open it and check the part as soon as it arrives.
> 
> It was the 2nd (center) piece in both of our kits as well so it seems that maybe this area of the mold isn't cooling as fast as the other areas.
> 
> ...


Definitely a major point about the box. When it comes down to it, the box is really the main unique aspect of the premier kit. Also after cutting the premier box UPC and sending it in to get a replacement part, what happens if one would find another misformed or missing part? No more UPC then no more replacement parts? Cutting a box UPC may be fine for something like a rebate program on a box of Valvoline oil but a model box with artwork??


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I wonder if you could scan the UPC and send it in, Then again, it was stated earlier an invoice or receipt should suffice.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Will Duct's solution last, though? Plastic has a 'memory' and might return to it's original state after a while (that's especially true with vinyl model kits).


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## cbear (Aug 15, 2000)

Both of my standard edition parts appear to be OK. Guess I got lucky!

Chuck


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

RossW said:


> Will Duct's solution last, though? Plastic has a 'memory' and might return to it's original state after a while (that's especially true with vinyl model kits).


Could be a concern when the part is going to be spinning at a healthy RPM on the end of a motor shaft for hours and hours. Will the shaft warp again after this resoftening the plastic?

Replacement parts may not necessarily be a solution in the near term. Wouldn't any that you obtain from R2 currently come from the same molding process as the ones in the kit? Don't mean to be a downer, but I am a bit concerned about this issue.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I was thinking I'd remove the plastic shaft entirely and add a brass tube (screwed to the dome) which slips over the motor shaft. I want to be absolutely sure it spins true and without wobble.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

RossW said:


> I was thinking I'd remove the plastic shaft entirely and add a brass tube (screwed to the dome) which slips over the motor shaft. I want to be absolutely sure it spins true and without wobble.


Please post how you do this. I may go this route if there are no other alternatives.


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## galaxy_jason (May 19, 2009)

I see on the light kit they make the same mistake many make, the LED's "blink". 1960's Christimas lights don't blink, they fade in and out and are somewhat random since they flash due to a bi-metal strip heating up.

Check this out, these lights look more like the TOS necelle than any light kit I have seen! 






I really need to get around to making a light kit. I have an LED pulsing randomly that looks exactly right, just don't have the 350 kit to play around with right now.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Although they are likely considered old school model lighting, grain-of-wheat bulbs might provide a more satisfying engine effect than LED. The warm up and cool down of the incandescent might be smoother effect. As long as you could easily disassemble a model to replace them could work. I believe the lamps can be obtained in all the necessary colors.

I am definitely going to look at doing this. LED's seem fine for general interior illuminiation, marker lighting, and spots but I just wonder if the grain-of-wheat lamps would be better for the engines.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

A microcontroller can be programmed to give LEDs a filament-lamp-like ramp up/dwell/ramp down combined with a slightly offset rate of flash for a more "organic" analog feel.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Plastic has a memory, that is true. However my thermal method defeats the memory through temperature extreams. Heating the part in boiling water causes the plastic to relax , allowing you to move the shaft to its proper alignment. The ice water dip 'sets' the plastic forcing it to retain its new shape.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

galaxy_jason said:


> I see on the light kit they make the same mistake many make, the LED's "blink". 1960's Christimas lights don't blink, they fade in and out and are somewhat random since they flash due to a bi-metal strip heating up.
> 
> Check this out, these lights look more like the TOS necelle than any light kit I have seen!
> 
> I really need to get around to making a light kit. I have an LED pulsing randomly that looks exactly right, just don't have the 350 kit to play around with right now.


Can you guess what this experiment was...?? (see attached)


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## galaxy_jason (May 19, 2009)

Thought about trying that as well but didn't find the right size sphere. And you need the old GE lights, I don't know if the new ones like you show would
give the correct look.

Then maybe it would.

The problem with trying a full size test is I would be temped to go ahead and build the rest of the ship. I don't have room for my 6 ft Refit


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Surest way to fix this problem long term is *move production out of freakin' China!!*


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Now that I've checked over my kit, I very strongly suggest that everyone test-fit all the major/large parts. Check mating halves, then check that assembly to its final-install location.

I've got significant warps in the nacelle pylons and worse still in the dorsal.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

I have one pylon that will not go into its mount... I will have to sand it down quite a bit. Seems minor. I will check my fan blades tonight though.

I taped the major assemblies together though and everything fits really well besides that one strut.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

galaxy_jason - here's what I have so far for my custom circuit:






I'm using a PIC microcontroller for the lights and there's some built-in randomization of the on/off cycles (both at runtime and on power up). There's only 5 blinkies to work with here as the general consensus is they used 10 C7 Christmas tree lights in the old girl and 5 of them were steady on (amber coloured), but each has blinky has it's own, independent, on/off cycles


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## feek61 (Aug 26, 2006)

That looks amazing; great job.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

TrekFX said:


> Now that I've checked over my kit, I very strongly suggest that everyone test-fit all the major/large parts. Check mating halves, then check that assembly to its final-install location.


The only issue I have is with the shaft of part #140. The rest of my kits seems to be just fine. I have put all the major parts together just to see how it builds up...she's a beauty!


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

swhite228 said:


> A friend of mine opened his kit after he got wind of the problem and found he had the same problem, one good and 1 bad. He is expecting his 2nd kit from R2 on Monday and is going to open it and check the part as soon as it arrives.
> 
> It was the 2nd (center) piece in both of our kits as well so it seems that maybe this area of the mold isn't cooling as fast as the other areas.
> 
> ...


A darned good point. I would definitely contact Jamie about this issue. Please let us know what he says. I haven't gotten a kit yet and hopefully in two or three months they will have fixed this issue in a better way then making you cut up your box!

What about sending them the sprue with #140 on it? Seems like that would be better proof, plus you could keep the part in case you decide to try and heat treat fix the part as a last resort.

But either way, please let us know what he says.

They had warping problems with early pulls of the 1/350th NX-01 kit, which is why in another thread I questioned whether or not earlier kits(even if the numbers match the production order) are truly more valuable.:freak:

I can't imagine Jamie wouldn't reverse the UPC policy whoever spoke to your friend quoted him. 

I have a very rare UK long box AMT Enterprise kit that just wouldn't be the same if the box were cut to pieces.

I'm sure they will find a way to make it right though.
Everything I've seen them do since the restart says they are a stand up company.

Again, please let us know what you find out.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I haven't checked all the parts but like many I taped together the big parts. There is a slight warp in the pylons but when the parts are pressed together they are fine. My saucer fits real good. Have not dug out the fans yet, maybe tonight. This is a big kit and I think some warping of such large parts is inevitable. Heck, some model car bodies are warped out of the box. I think they did an awesome job.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

robiwon said:


> I haven't checked all the parts but like many I taped together the big parts. There is a slight warp in the pylons but when the parts are pressed together they are fine. My saucer fits real good. Have not dug out the fans yet, maybe tonight. This is a big kit and I think some warping of such large parts is inevitable. Heck, some model car bodies are warped out of the box. I think they did an awesome job.


I totally agree. The big problem with this particular part is that if you are lighting it it is a moving part and the shaft has to be straight. Such a shame that it had to be THAT part. I'm sure R2 will make it right though and correct the problem on future runs.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I hope they make it right and correct the premiere kit runs.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Glad I passed and didn't spend good money on a faulted product. If they fix any of this on future releases, I may jump in the water. Not Round 2's fault it sounds like though, sounds like the plastic didn't cool long enough before removal and or packaging.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Fozzie said:


> I totally agree. The big problem with this particular part is that if you are lighting it it is a moving part and the shaft has to be straight. Such a shame that it had to be THAT part. I'm sure R2 will make it right though and correct the problem on future runs.


Or . . .

someone could just build it warped and explain away the wooble!

Put a little tiny 1/350th scale Scotty, wearing a TAS style force field belt, on the outside center of the defective nacelle with tool in hand . . .

just tell everybody Scotty is having to get that engine up to speed with a Model-T style hand crank!!! :tongue:


"Did ya' think warp engines got up to speed on their own, Laddie?"


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I must be buying models from the wrong place, I have never seen any plastic model that did not have any flaws of some sort.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> Or . . .
> 
> someone could just build it warped and explain away the wooble!
> 
> ...


Ha! Good one! :roll:


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

robiwon said:


> I must be buying models from the wrong place, I have never seen any plastic model that did not have any flaws of some sort.


I've bought plenty with no production flaws.

Please note I'm talking about flaws with the actual kit being produced, not any innacuracy of finished model's design versus filming miniature . . . etc.


But it is to be *totally expected* that there are two points where you are most likely to see flaws.

First, when the producer first makes the models and they don't have any experience with that particular mold.

Secondly, at the end of the lifespan of the mold.

It's quite common to have models that don't have real flaws between those two points.

Two good examples, the PL 1/350th NX-01's when they first were produced were flawed because the people making the pulls didn't wait long enough for the entire mold to cool down properly.

I was making that point a week ago when a lot of people were complaining they had high kit numbers even though they ordered their kits early on.

You don't necessarily want the first kits pulled off a production line.

Ironically, the kits being pulled too quickly seems to be exactly what has happened here.

Once they properly instruct the people on the line the problem will probably go away entirely.

A good second example was the old Ertl Enterprise D. Towards the end of it's initial tooling, about the time of the "Generations" release, the molds had deteriorated to the point where the castings were *HORRIBLE!*

But had you bought earlier versions of the kit you would not have had a problem.

But again, these aren't really any structural/fit problems with the kit's design. The kit itself doesn't seem to be flawed in it's fit - they just messed up when it came to pulling the parts too soon.

Once everybody get's their corrected parts they should be okay.

The other flaws with the misalignment of hatch and port details may be flaws that won't be practical to fix by sending you replacement saucer parts,

but those details can be fixed with a little putty and a fingertip-powered push drill, and slapping the decals on. They aren't really fit or structural problems like the ones the original AMT kit's warp engine tab system had.

I know it must be frustrating after waiting so long for this kit, but once you get your replacement part you'll be good to go!:thumbsup:


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

I'm going to try fixing my own part rather than go through the hassle of getting a replacement part.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Hopefully, once the plant is "familiar" with the molds we will see less quality control issues. But, at least R2 is stepping up and offering replacement parts. I'll pull my caps tonight and check for trueness. If warped I doubt I'll send them back. The fix posted above seems like it would work just fine. I have a high number kit, 1469, but like mentioned that does not mean it was actually the 1469th kit pulled, but so far I have no major problems with the kit as far as warpage goes.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

jgoldsack said:


> I'm going to try fixing my own part rather than go through the hassle of getting a replacement part.


Are both the warped and unwarped parts identical?

I know it shouldn't be necessary to do, but I know some of you guys cast your own parts from time to time.

Would a resin recast part be strong enough and an adequate replacement?
(Of course, with a part like this that will be actually moving and under some stress, the resin would have to be totally degassed. Or perhaps a low-temperature tin alloy? Should be no gassing issues with a metal alloy I'm assuming - but I've never cast in metal.  )


I don't have the kit or part so I have no way of speculating myself on the appropriateness of resin.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

P.S. Has no one heard back from Jamie about the UPC issue?


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Does anyone have a pic of the warped part?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I'll have to check for warpage when I get my kit. If it's just a clear plastic piece I have plenty of clear acrylic rod in my plastics stash so could probably just rig up a replacement for any warped parts without too much trouble.


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## scotthm (Apr 6, 2007)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Does anyone have a pic of the warped part?












---------------


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

one on left








one on bottom

i also have one good,one bad.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

And while I'm doing pics I really,truly hope that no one has come across and noticed this one!
Saucer's lower planetary sensor dome housing.
Phaser turret doesn't look too bad,one high spot.
Not sure how to correct other than run file/sanding block across it to level it out.Any ideas anyone?






















This may be good candidate for replacement part?


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## SusieQ (Nov 24, 2012)

I had the same problem with the lower saucer. Give R2 a call and have it replaced.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Wow, yeah.. I'd contact Round 2, you can't fix that.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

scotthm said:


> ---------------





RICHjm said:


> View attachment 164979
> 
> one on left
> 
> ...


Thanks, scotthm & RICHim! Wow! That is definitely a problem!

I haven't checked mine yet. I'll do so and report back if it's messed up as well.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

RICHjm said:


> This may be good candidate for replacement part?


Yep. You shouldn't be expected to fix that yourself. Flash, seams, yes, but not that.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

They are definitely pulling these out before they've properly cooled.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

I've checked my domes, and comparatively I think I got lucky; mine seem to look OK, but I suppose the final determination will be when I get the accessory kit and spin them.

I didn't check the saucer yet, so now I have something else to look for...

At any rate, THANK YOU to everyone for posting these things here.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

Aren't the molds forced air or water cooled at the end process before popping out the pieces?


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

jsut checked my lower sensor done, and thankfully it is OK. The pictures of the bussard dome tho is exactly what mine looks like.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

At least the UPC is on the BOTTOM of the lower right corner of the box {1 1/2" X 1"}
I could use a #11 and surgically remove it and send it in with the form I've down loaded.
I can live with that! May have been different though if it were anywhere on the LID!
Ill need to double check,but so far its just these two warped pieces.


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

Usually the timing is set to parts will not warp when popped out of the molds, but that's the sort of finicky tweaking that can sometimes go on into the production cycle. Usually bad trees are discarded, but you can imagine that some will get by every now and then. A

Round2 should set you up just fine, give them a call.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I checked my domes and both are straight. I put them on the base and spun them for a good twenty minutes. Looked at them for the longest time from every angle. They are spinning true. I packed the kit back up before seeing this, so I'll check my lower saucer tomorrow.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

I went through all my trees in my standard kit and found at least one dome visibly off (the one more center of the tree), one side of both engine pylons are warped (also, the two parts to the center of the tree), slight warp on one side of the neck pylon, and I have the lower primary hull warpage. The neck and engine pylons will be no problem once glued. The dome can be corrected (or replaced), but the hull part will have to be replaced. Here's an aftermarket op. Cast your perfect ring.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

scotthm said:


> ---------------


Ouch! Ouch! Ouch! Ouch!

I had only seen a dead on video of a lit engine from the front and I thought some non-clear piece seperate from the inner dome structure was messed up, not a clear piece. 

Did I say Ouch?!?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Checked mine and one has the whole shaft visibly warped. I am not sure if Ductape's suggestion would work on this one but I may give it a try before contacting Jamie. As you can see from the picture, it is very noticeable.

UPDATE: It just seems to be this one part. The other dome I tested and thought there is an ever so slight wobble, it is fine for the kit. I have written Jamie to see what needs to be done. If the UPC symbol is needed I will be sending for a replacement part.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

RICHjm said:


> And while I'm doing pics I really,truly hope that no one has come across and noticed this one!
> Saucer's lower planetary sensor dome housing.
> Phaser turret doesn't look too bad,one high spot.
> Not sure how to correct other than run file/sanding block across it to level it out.Any ideas anyone?
> ...


Oh my yes, it needs to be replaced. This is not good at all. Mine is straight all across, no warping.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

RICHjm said:


> And while I'm doing pics I really,truly hope that no one has come across and noticed this one!
> Saucer's lower planetary sensor dome housing.
> Phaser turret doesn't look too bad,one high spot.
> Not sure how to correct other than run file/sanding block across it to level it out.Any ideas anyone?
> ...





SusieQ said:


> I had the same problem with the lower saucer. Give R2 a call and have it replaced.


Double ouch!!! :freak:

This once again looks like a part that was pulled before it had cooled down enough.

Somebody switch those guys to Sanka and tell them to slow down!!!


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Is this batch already done, or are they still cranking them out?
I'm hoping once they get these production problems fixed they will maybe be able to start marking the boxes on the new runs somehow . . .


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> Double ouch!!! :freak:
> 
> This once again looks like a part that was pulled before it had cooled down enough.
> 
> Somebody switch those guys to Sanka and tell them to slow down!!!


They have to tear through popping out the Round 2 kits so they have time to make the ones they sell on the black market perfect!


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

It just occurred to me that I best do a dry fit on the upper primary hull to the b/c decks to make sure that there is no warpage interfering with that fit. Like others, I have already seen that my upper and lower parts of the primary hull sit together with the gap all around. Good to find these things BEFORE construction. Good for me I still waiting on a light kit. I would hate to be mid-build and find these things.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Mine are warped as well. Bummer! I'll be asking for replacements for those two parts.

The lower saucer sensor dome ring is also out of round but not too bad. I can live with that one.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

One of my domes is warped. Haven't checked the lower saucer. 

My nacelle pylons are also warped. They don't want to go together flush, and splay out at either end. Should be too hard to fix with glue and clamps. Or should I attempt to heat them back into the correct shape?


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

I'm okay with cutting up my box for the UPC,but like what was said before,what if your sent a replacement part that is in the same condition or worse? You can send your note to a 9 to 5- Non-Trek- Modeler- saying;" please double check before sending",but do they know what to look for? A department handling "warranty" replacement orders. Throw a number in a box,out you go. Bye. What if later down the road you have decal problems? You only have one UPC!
I feel a bit naked.


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

On that inner dome crooked shaft: How hard would it be to cut it off and add your own replacement shaft? I've been thinking about pulling the tigger and buying this kit - but this problem - and seeing photos of a warped lower saucer sensor ring - this is disheartening. I would die if I opened my box and saw these manufacturing process flaws after spending over $120 for a model kit.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

After giving birth and bringing something to life,and making so many people happy,its a sin to have to deal with doctor caused errors from half a world away.
So will there be an answer?


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

It is NOT my intention to cause negative feedback on a WELL DONE product!!
So therefore I will say no more on the subject. 'Nuff said.
I'm sure R2 will make a public announcement here soon addressing these concerns.

_RICH.


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## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

*Warped parts*

I have a few warped parts as well.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Holy crap, those are bad. I'll be reviewing my kit closely today. But so far mine has been good.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Can we start an empirical rating system?

We can call it the "EF-W!" (enhanced ******** warp!) scale.

Like "This one goes to 11."

All kidding aside, while it sucks that this happened even with Round 2's best of intentions, I'm sure they'll get it all straightened out. Just casually going over and test-fitting parts (even the warped ones!) it's obvious that producing this kit as-released is a triumph and a labor of love by those involved. There's a lot more right with it than wrong!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

So far the dome is all I found but I haven't reviewed the kit closely. I will not be able to do nay replacements immediately so I will examine when I get the chance before replacing the one part. If there are others I want to make sure any parts I get replaced are requested from Round 2 in one shot.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

guys I can tell you that before you assemble the nacelle struts into the hull, bring out the Dremel. Once the locks are inside you cannot get the tabs in the hull at all without dremeling plastic off the struts. They arent going anywhere once they are in . Absolutely no dropping down once in.


----------



## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> guys I can tell you that before you assemble the nacelle struts into the hull, bring out the Dremel. Once the locks are inside you cannot get the tabs in the hull at all without dremeling plastic off the struts. They arent going anywhere once they are in . Absolutely no dropping down once in.


I was just handling that section.

There may be some mold parting lines on the hull surfaces of the "socket." I need to go look more closely, they'd be very minor at any rate.

Can you add a bevel or chamfer on the "bottom" edges of the pylon tab and work it into the hull??


----------



## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

I just checked my domes and they are thankfully OK, as is my planetary sensor. That's not to say that, in a kit with this many parts, I won't run across something that is warped, but so far so good.


----------



## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

My lower saucer ring is slightly warped, too.


----------



## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

Okay...all that is left to do now is buy stamps.
I hope this gets the point across!
















Request form for replacement parts HAS been sent out in the mail.


----------



## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

From what I can see I seem to have been lucky. I haven't been able to find any warped or malformed parts so far.


----------



## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Same here thankfully. I went over all the kit parts tonight. Everything on my kit is straight with the exception of the pylons, just a very slight bowing at the ends. This dissapears when assembled.


----------



## johnF (Aug 31, 2010)

I checked over my parts and they all seem to be ok but I noticed something odd about the top of the saucer.
Looking from the front back, I can see a difference in the texture of the saucer diagonally from the 2 0’clock position to 8 0’clock. I wonder if this has anything to do with correcting the gridlines on top so they line up with the bottom lines.
I noticed the grid lines in those areas are not quite as fine as the rest of the saucer’s.
A little sanding will take care of it, so no big problem...just an observation.


----------



## robcomet (May 25, 2004)

I'm a bit worried now. I haven't checked my kit to see if there are any warped parts as I've had to put it away till after Christmas. If my saucer is warped then I'm royally screwed as I can't somehow see Round 2 sending me a new one to the UK where they don't distribute. Looks like I'm going to have to dig it out and check it.  :freak:

Rob


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## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

My lower disk appears to be fine as does the rest of the kit other then the mentioned parts.


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Got my kit today and held my breath for a few minutes as I opened it and took inventory of the parts. First I checked the lower saucer- no warpage. Then I slapped the saucer halves together- no gaps. Then I checked the clear bussard spinners- no warpage. Both parts were straight and true. A general inspection of the hull parts revealed no sinkholes either. And the saucer halves had no odd texturing that I could see. So I guess I lucked out guys.


----------



## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

I attempted the boil and bend technique, to no avail. It just would not bend.


----------



## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

*Fixed*

I just fixed the two warped parts I had. I used a heat gun to carefully soften the plastic then reshaped them, took all of 5 mins.:thumbsup:


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

santee said:


> I just fixed the two warped parts I had. I used a heat gun to carefully soften the plastic then reshaped them, took all of 5 mins.:thumbsup:


Fantastic! What temperature did you have to use?


----------



## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Hot!


----------



## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

I wonder if these are Premier kits with warped parts, what COA numbers are they? Maybe we could see a pattern with the lower numbered kits having the problem, or higher...


----------



## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Havok69 said:


> I wonder if these are Premier kits with warped parts, what COA numbers are they? Maybe we could see a pattern with the lower numbered kits having the problem, or higher...


# 109 for mine.


----------



## taipan (Aug 1, 2010)

1300 here and no warp or major sinkholes...yea!


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Trek Ace said:


> Hot!


Darn!

I was guessing he had it set to Cold! 

Guess I was wrong again... :freak:


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Seriously though, some heat guns have a fairly precise temperature setting dial set in degrees. 

I could look up the melting point of standard styrene but there's a chance the clear stuff is different.

Safest thing would be to start off around 200 and go up from there I guess.


----------



## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I thought polystyrene tended to warp at 135. Out here in the Arizona desert, I've had to make sure the kits in storage are triple shaded with plenty of airflow. I lost an SR-71 kit to extreme warpage at 140 in a metal shed with a hot air spun fan on top.


----------



## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Havok69 said:


> I wonder if these are Premier kits with warped parts, what COA numbers are they? Maybe we could see a pattern with the lower numbered kits having the problem, or higher...


I don't think there is a pattern, assuming all the premiere editions were molded first the problem persists in the standard edition. I haven't opened my 1st premiere and my 2nd one hasn't arrived yet, but I have received my standard edition and it did have the misaligned shaft on one of the inner domes. However all the other parts were fine and a couple minutes with the heat gun (sparkfun heaterizer xl 3000, non adjustable) heating the outside of the dome (to avoid melting the end of the shaft) from about 8" away it straightened nicely.


----------



## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> Seriously though, some heat guns have a fairly precise temperature setting dial set in degrees.
> 
> I could look up the melting point of standard styrene but there's a chance the clear stuff is different.
> 
> Safest thing would be to start off around 200 and go up from there I guess.


I used a Monocote gun used to heat shrink the covering on R/C planes. It has one heat setting which gets to about 160F but the plastic started to soften around 140F like 
charonjr mentioned in his post above. It didn't take much heat to work the parts back to their original shape.

I think if you used too high a heat setting you would risk scorching the surface of the parts.


----------



## kekker (Mar 20, 2011)

I got mine from the Megahobby pre-order, so it wasn't the premier kit. Got it Wednesday.

I haven't done any test fitting yet, but I did check out the lower saucer and the bussard parts. No problems with either.

Could it have been the manufacturer getting used to the plastic coming out of the molds? Not that they'd never done it before, just getting used to how this particular molding needs to be timed right to avoid warping.

Just my thoughts. At least it's not a problem with the molds themselves!

Kev


----------



## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*pylons*

both my upper halves of the pylons have a nice curve, Hoping when I follow the directions of gluing them together they straighten out. other than that no problems.


----------



## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

woof359 said:


> both my upper halves of the pylons have a nice curve, Hoping when I follow the directions of gluing them together they straighten out. other than that no problems.


Mine do too, but when pressure is applied they line up perfect. 

Maybe after gluing them together stack some books on them until the glue cures to insure they stay flat.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*glue*



santee said:


> Mine do too, but when pressure is applied they line up perfect.
> 
> Maybe after gluing them together stack some books on them until the glue cures to insure they stay flat.


im hoping that too, question is Testors liquid cement or pro weld


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

santee said:


> Mine do too, but when pressure is applied they line up perfect.
> 
> Maybe after gluing them together stack some books on them until the glue cures to insure they stay flat.


Mine had a slight curvature as well although I wouldn't go so far as to call them warped. I plan on inserting a section of rectangular brass tubing inside the struts anyway so that should take care of that.


----------



## Thraken-Sal (Sep 18, 2012)

Well I just checked my pylons and Bussard fans. The pylons are fine, but my bussard fans are both badly warped. One is so bad that it is a good 1/8 inch bent, and looks really crooked when I place it into the center of the light ring. It also hangs over the edge of the ring, so I can't even fit the cover over of it. I tried the hot water trick and it didn't work couldn't even budge the centers at all.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

I had one bent dome, everything else looks ok.
I also tried the hot water trick, but it didn't work. I fixed it by putting the dome in the light ring and very briefly heating the center of the dome with a cigarette lighter while applying pressure toward the ring.
I did scortch the center of the dome slightly but once it is diffused and painted I don't think it will be noticeable.


----------



## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

*Hot water does NOT WORK*

Guys hot water does not work. 

Heat the part with a heat gun....SLOWLY. If you use a paint stripper be VERY careful not scorch the surface of the part. 

DO NOT point the gun towards the part and wait for it to soften, instead make passes left and right across the part. 
ALWAYS keep the heat source moving and at a distance of at least 6" depending on your heat source. 

Move left and right from a distance of 6" bring the head of the gun closer but as you do your left and right motion should increase, in other words as you get closer move faster!

Work SLOWLY to build up the heat and test the part as you go.

An open flame will NOT WORK.


----------



## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Seems to me that people are blinded by a BIG problem with a kit they paid a LOT of money for to be the "First" to get it. If I had gone through and gotten the one I reserved, I would not be heating parts, or placing books on them to get them straight or re-drilling malformed windows. I would be demanding my money back or perfect replacemaent parts at the very least.

It may have been a dream come true for many, but it is going to be a PR nightmare for Round 2 when word of mouth gets out to the general modeling community, (i.e. the world beyond this forum!), concerning these production problems. I really think this is being looked at through rose colored glasses and if it were any other kit, the manufacturer would be raked over the coals for what was in the box when it was opened.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*small parts*

I got my shuttle assembled, I got douts about getting some of the decals on it. painted the red upper saucer lights, you got to be careful when handling these, slippery and small. dropped the tiny outer light on the floor, took 15 mintes to find it ....twice


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*holder*

poked some holes in the paper cup, inserted the lights threw it, seems to keep them from being blown away by the rattle can.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> Is this batch already done, or are they still cranking them out?
> I'm hoping once they get these production problems fixed they will maybe be able to start marking the boxes on the new runs somehow . . .





RSN said:


> They have to tear through popping out the Round 2 kits so they have time to make the ones they sell on the black market perfect!




^^^^^
The above would be a lot funnier if it hadn't happened already with other Star Trek licensees producing their stuff in China. 

Right before CBS bought out TOS and remastered it Paramount came out with all 3 Seasons of TOS Trek in three boxed sets of DVD's.

I bought the first season on DVD in Target and then on Ebay I saw all three seasons offered for half what I paid for Season One, I ordered it from a guy in California thinking maybe the guy was selling it cheap because he needed the cash.

After paying for it I got a tracking number that indicated it was coming from China.

When it arrived, all three seasons were contained within cardboard printed boxes, not the plastic cases like the one I bought in Target.

I examined the DVD's from the Season One DVD's and compared them to the Season One DVD's I bought in Target both visually and via a couple of disk checking programs.

There was zero noticable difference in the physical disks, the printing on the DVD's, or the files space and allocation tables of the disks.

The disks I was sent from China weren't something cooked up on a home PC somewhere, they were factory pressings indistinquishable from the original.

I don't know if they were made in the same factory as Paramount was contracting with, but these were high-volume, machine pressed disks that were indistinquishable from the ones I paid top dollar for at Target.

Which left me kind of torn.

Which side do you pull for? Paraborg or the Communist Chinese bootlegers?

Not an easy decision . . . 




I'm hoping nothing like this happens to R2, but if it can happen to a much larger parent company like Paramount it's not outside the realm of possibility.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> ^^^^^
> The above would be a lot funnier if it hadn't happened already with other Star Trek licensees producing their stuff in China.
> 
> Right before CBS bought out TOS and remastered it Paramount came out with all 3 Seasons of TOS Trek in three boxed sets of DVD's.
> ...


I wasn't being funny, it is what they do with things manufactured over there! Do you want to support a company that legally owns a property and has given fans hundreds of hours of entertainment, or do you want to fund a foreign governments expanding military?! No brainer to me!


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

RSN said:


> I wasn't being funny, it is what they do with things manufactured over there! Do you want to support a company that legally owns a property and has given fans hundreds of hours of entertainment, or do you want to fund a foreign governments expanding military?! No brainer to me!


I was being funny.

Fecious to be more specific, when I wrote the last part of my post.

The first part of the post I believed to be an obvious lamentation of the both the chances and past instances of just such a thing as what you were talking about occuring.

I thought it was obvious, but apparently I was being too subtle and not clear enough.

My fault for not being clearer in that I was worried that it's not impossible for just such a thing to be occurring.

I hope this clears that up.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Good Lord, what have I started? :freak:


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I think just for that bit of advice regarding the use of a heat gun in fixing warped parts, this thread needs to be stickied.

As for those coming-soon bootleg Enterprise kits, maybe they can be looked upon as a cheap source of spare parts and kitbashing materials...?


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## Styrofoam_Guy (May 4, 2004)

Normally before going into production they set the cycle times of the machines. So someone with the knowledge would have said the part has to be in the mould for xx second before pulling the sprues out.

So I would expect the first kits to be fine. As production continues they may look into seeing how they can increase their profits.

Some penny pincher may have suggest pulling the sprues quicker and he would get a pat on the back for increasing the production rate having no clue that this could result in warped parts.


Another thing I noticed is that the box is crammed with parts. Could it be that the sprues are not packed correctly and the squishing of parts is causing some to be warped?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Only if they're packing the boxes while the parts are still hot...


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I got a response from Jamie. They will except a scan of the UPC code instead of damaging the box. I plan to do this.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Opus Penguin said:


> I got a response from Jamie. They will except a scan of the UPC code instead of damaging the box. I plan to do this.


Good to know.


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## Thraken-Sal (Sep 18, 2012)

John F said:


> I had one bent dome, everything else looks ok.
> I also tried the hot water trick, but it didn't work. I fixed it by putting the dome in the light ring and very briefly heating the center of the dome with a cigarette lighter while applying pressure toward the ring.
> I did scortch the center of the dome slightly but once it is diffused and painted I don't think it will be noticeable.


That's what I ended up doing to both of mine. The center is kind of scorched, but I'm like you. once it is frosted and painted it will look just fine.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

"...except a scan of the UPC code instead of damaging the box."...
SURE NOW YOU TELL ME.TOO LATE NOW.OH WELL.NO BIGGIE.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Styrofoam_Guy said:


> Normally before going into production they set the cycle times of the machines. So someone with the knowledge would have said the part has to be in the mould for xx second before pulling the sprues out.
> 
> So I would expect the first kits to be fine. As production continues they may look into seeing how they can increase their profits.
> 
> Some penny pincher may have suggest pulling the sprues quicker and he would get a pat on the back for increasing the production rate having no clue that this could result in warped parts.


No way of really knowing why unless somebody is at the factory watching.
One of the problems of having stuff produced so far away.

These days though, the technology to have real time cameras watching the production floors 24/7 via the internet is there.

If I were R2 I'd insist on having such cameras. Then you can tell how they are being messed up and how many are being produced.

Assuming there aren't any restrictions on such real time video feeds coming out of China - which is possible.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Hell, it's Communist China, _of course there are surveillance cameras!!_

The question is whether or not they'd allow R2 access to them, which is probably a negative.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Hey, I was under the impression that Round 2 said a while back that they would not be able to provide replacement parts for this kit. Is that incorrect?


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Yep. Jamie told me that the normal return policy (on their website) applies to this kit.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Excellent. I'll have to do a thorough survey of all parts, to see what needs replacing.

Unfortunately, that lower saucer ring is gonna nag at me, so I'll probably request a new one. Wouldn't be too hard to fix, but I don't want to make it worse. And, why should I HAVE to fix it?


Also, as with my (eventual) 1/350 Refit, I'll probably snag a few spare parts for the outer engine domes and such--just in case. I'm more than happy to pay for those extras, though. I'll only request free replacements for parts that need replacing.


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

So what size are the replacement parts considered? The form says you have to choose between small, medium, large or extra large.

Rob
Iwata Padawan


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

There are examples regarding sizes on the Round 2 site.

http://round2models.com/replacement/


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Has Jamie said anything about whether the replacement parts will be checked to make sure they are not bent? It would be really annoying to go through the trouble of getting a replacement part only to find it's warped too.


----------



## scotthm (Apr 6, 2007)

RSN said:


> If I had gone through and gotten the one I reserved, I would not be heating parts, or placing books on them to get them straight or re-drilling malformed windows. I would be demanding my money back.


My warped nacelle dome seems to bother you more than it does me. I guess it's a good thing you don't have one of these kits. :thumbsup:

What was I thinking by ordering another kit after digging around in my first one? :freak:

---------------


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

veedubb67 said:


> So what size are the replacement parts considered? The form says you have to choose between small, medium, large or extra large.
> 
> Rob
> Iwata Padawan


 I don't have a kit yet. But doesn't each piece have it's own number?

Why would you have to choose a size?


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

scotthm said:


> My warped nacelle dome seems to bother you more than it does me. I guess it's a good thing you don't have one of these kits. :thumbsup:
> 
> What was I thinking by ordering another kit after digging around in my first one? :freak:
> 
> ---------------


You were probably thinking that they are going to make things right even if the new kit has warped parts too.

And I'm willing to bet you are correct on that point.

They had similar problems in the past and I've never heard of them refusing to replace bad parts.

I too would have been upset, but I wouldn't go to the expense and hassle of shipping the kit back and getting
a refund, when getting accurate replacement parts guarantees I'd have a good kit and be far less of a hassle.


----------



## scotthm (Apr 6, 2007)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> I too would have been upset, but I wouldn't go to the expense and hassle of shipping the kit back and getting
> a refund


The inner dome shaft that seems to be the most commonly warped part shouldn't even be a factor for anyone not building a lighted version.

---------------


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

scotthm said:


> The inner dome shaft that seems to be the most commonly warped part shouldn't even be a factor for anyone not building a lighted version.
> 
> ---------------


True.
I think asking for replacement parts as most people seem to be doing is the smartest way to go. 

And I wasn't meaning to suggest you would consider returning your kit for a refund - I was just mentioning it as an aside.

Everyone who is buying one obviously wants a good and complete kit. 

The easiest way to get to that point is to keep what you have and just wait for the replacement parts.

I for one want to see R2 produce more 1/350th kits in the future.
I would be willing to work with them and just wait for a couple of 
parts rather then returning entire kits and incurring not just the
additional cost to them, but the cost, time and hassle it would cost
me to ship a kit back.

I wouldn't be looking to penalize R2, or myself for that matter.
Which is what would happen if they were forced to take back tons
of kits with only a couple of defective parts.

Ordering a whole new kit after returning one with defective parts
seems like more hassle then it is worth, not just for R2 but for
the consumer as well.


----------



## scotthm (Apr 6, 2007)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> I would be willing to work with them and just wait for a couple of parts rather then returning entire kits and incurring not just the additional cost to them, but the cost, time and hassle it would cost
> me to ship a kit back.


I agree. I can't imagine anyone who's held this kit in their hands wanting to send it back.

---------------


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> I was being funny.
> 
> *Fecious *to be more specific. . . .


I do NOT want to know that that means! 

:wave:


----------



## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> I was being funny.
> 
> Fecious to be more specific, when I wrote the last part of my post.





PerfesserCoffee said:


> I do NOT want to know that that means!
> 
> :wave:


I think he wants to be *facetious*

But can we keep "fecious" as a new-speak term? Like "frak?" Used in a sentence: Compared to the new 1-350 TOS E, the old 18-incher sure becomes a lot more fecious...


----------



## robcomet (May 25, 2004)

I finally got 5 mins this morning to pull my E out of the loft and check it. I was very pleased to discover that none of the parts were warped. It means I don't have to send anything back to the States! :thumbsup:

Rob


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

TrekFX said:


> I think he wants to be *facetious*
> 
> But can we keep "fecious" as a new-speak term? Like "frak?" Used in a sentence: Compared to the new 1-350 TOS E, the old 18-incher sure becomes a lot more fecious...


Too close to "fecal!"


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

TrekFX said:


> I think he wants to be *facetious*
> 
> But can we keep "fecious" as a new-speak term? Like "frak?" Used in a sentence: Compared to the new 1-350 TOS E, the old 18-incher sure becomes a lot more fecious...


:roll:

I love it! It's official! We have a new slang word here at HobbyTalk.com!

_*fecious*

[fee'shus] adjective
1.
involving or suggesting the appearance or smell of fecal matter
2.
humorous in a negative way; something is funny because it is terrible or decrepit 
3.
Archaic. concerned with or controlling the colon or sphincter muscle_


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

SteveR said:


> Too close to "fecal!"


Well, that's the point, isn't it?


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Well, that's the point, isn't it?


True.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I do NOT want to know that that means!
> 
> :wave:


_*Neither do I!!!!!!!!!!! *_ :roll:



TrekFX said:


> I think he wants to be *facetious*


^^^^^What he said! 

I was trying to be funny in what I thought was an obvious, tongue in cheek manner without being truly sarcastic.

I'm surprised Perfesser got to me before John P. How are you ever going to get to a trillion posts if you keep slipping like that, John P.?


----------



## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> _*Neither do I!!!!!!!!!!! *_ :roll:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


John P. allows me to take on some of the grammar/spelling errors so that he doesn't look like the grammar nazi all the time.

Check a couple of posts above. "Fecious" is now a word, thanks to you. I even came up with a fake dictionary entry for it that includes an archaic definition to make it seem as if it's been around a while. :wave:


----------



## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

veedubb67 said:


> So what size are the replacement parts considered? The form says you have to choose between small, medium, large or extra large.
> 
> Rob
> Iwata Padawan


Never mind - it helps if you read!

_There is no charge for this service as long as (a)copy of instruction sheet with missing part clearly circled (b)original sales receipt and/or original UPC and date code (c)contact information are included._

Rob
Iwata Padawan


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I think the size only comes in to play if you don't have a receipt or if you just want to buy spare parts - they need to know the size of the sprue frame to charge accordingly.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

RossW said:


> I think the size only comes in to play if you don't have a receipt or if you just want to buy spare parts - they need to know the size of the sprue frame to charge accordingly.


There may be shipping cost considerations.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> John P. allows me to take on some of the grammar/spelling errors so that he doesn't look like the grammar nazi all the time.


I never mind his corrections. He's always right about them, so what can I say?

Heck I just bought the newest version of a book about New Orleans history that has been begging to be edited for 30 years. The big selling point about it was supposed to be that the rights were bought out by two sisters who claimed to have edited it and want to keep it current.

Not only did they do a poor job, but they have introduced factual errors that didn't exist in the last version!!!!:freak:

I have no problem being corrected when I'm wrong. 

Too many people have given up caring about how they present themselves.

Having grown up Catholic I spent all but one year of my pre-college education being taught by brothers and nuns. As a result, somewhere in the back of my head they are always still there motivating me. 

I always try to write well enough so that none of the nuns from my youth would ever want to whack me on the back of my head with a ruler.:tongue:


----------



## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> ...I try to write well enough so that none of the nuns from my youth would ever want to whack me on the back of my head with a ruler.:tongue:


This made me laugh out loud. My ex-wife used to talk about her time in Catholic school the same way. :tongue:


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Nova Designs said:


> This made me laugh out loud. My ex-wife used to talk about her time in Catholic school the same way. :tongue:


It never goes away!

I just got back from the Dentist a little after noon. The clinic is run by The Daughters of Charity. It's based on a sliding scale so most people get a discount on the services there, but even if I didn't I'd still go there. Many people fortunate to have full dental coverage still go to them because they run such a tight ship.

Those nuns manage the laymen nurses and doctors in a way you won't ever see in private practices.

Everyone is polite, fast and efficent and pleasant to a degree you won't find anywhere else that I've seen.

But I must admit, I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the nun factor.

Every time I see one pass in the lobby or a waiting room I still find myself sitting up straighter and checking for a third time that I've shaved and my shirt is properly tucked in!!!

And I'm 47 years old!!! :tongue:


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

LOL! And they look so innocent! 




Chuck_P.R. said:


> It never goes away!
> 
> I just got back from the Dentist a little after noon. The clinic is run by The Daughters of Charity. It's based on a sliding scale so most people get a discount on the services there, but even if I didn't I'd still go there. Many people fortunate to have full dental coverage still go to them because they run such a tight ship.
> 
> ...


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## zysurge (Sep 6, 2002)

I got kit #309. The lower saucer is perfect, as is the joint between the two saucer halves.

One of the bussard domes is very slightly bent - I'll plan to use a heat gun and straighten it when I get around to building it.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Nova Designs said:


> LOL! And they look so innocent!


Not to me!

I love them to death for all the hard work they do, but it's a weird mixture of love, respect and left-over juvenile-imprinted-conditioned-fear.

I'd compare how Catholic parochial students are conditioned by nuns to the way circus trainers condition elephants.

When they are very young they are tied to an extremely heavy thick chain for years that they struggle against for a good long while until they finally give up. Then as they get older, when no chains could truly be strong enough to keep them in place, they can tie them to a tree with a thin rope and the elephants are so well conditioned they have no idea how truly strong or weak the rope really is.

They've been taught they aren't supposed to pull against it so they don't. 


A weird nun-related anecdote I came across:

when a shipfull of nuns of Daughters of Charity order originally came to New Orleans in 1832 to work in and help build hospitals here, their ship was chased by pirates for seven hours and according to the book I was reading "narrowly avoided capture."

For some reason that phrase kept turning over in my head for an hour or so afterward, not sure why.

Then it occurred to me that there was a 99.99999% chance that those pirates where French catholics.

Then I realized how wrong the author was.

I don't think the nuns "narrowly avoided capture."

Had the pirates caught and boarded the ship, no French catholic male - pirate or not - would have held his sense of manhood and chivalry so cheap as to attack a ship full of nuns.

I'm not at all convinced though, that the nuns would have returned the favor! 

It's quite possible that *the pirates were the lucky ones!*


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Lol!!!!!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I wonder how long it will take to get the replacement parts...? I put my request in the mail 11 days ago on 11/25.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Fozzie said:


> I wonder how long it will take to get the replacement parts...? I put my request in the mail 11 days ago on 11/25.


I sent mine off on Tuesday. I'll post when the replacements are in.


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## SusieQ (Nov 24, 2012)

I put a request in for my replacment lower saucer on the 15th of Nov. I received it yesterday. It was in perfect condition.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

So, are you guys sending in the actual UPCs? Photocopies?


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Gregatron said:


> So, are you guys sending in the actual UPCs? Photocopies?


I did but I scanned it first along with other documentation included for the request.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

So you have to ship the original part back or just mail a copy of the instruction sheet with the part circled?


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I neglected to include a copy of my UPC in my replacement request for the inner nacelle domes - I hope they just ask me to send them that separately rather than throw it out.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I'm wondering if there is any correlation with kits that have warped parts?

I have 182 and so far it looks like I've skated and don't have any bad parts.

For the people who have warped parts:

How many parts are warped?
is it just one part, or do you have more than one part that is bad?

What is you 1701 kit number?

Has anyone found warped parts in a standard edition kit?

This might help R2 and modelers deal with the issue more effectively.

Mark


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

My kit is #992 and I have no warped parts that I have come across yet.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Kit #1469 is all good!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

#290 and only the bussard part is warped.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I checked and mine has no number on the box. It's a Standard Edition though.


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## ViperRecon (Aug 3, 2010)

No big problems with #852 but there might be some very slight dimpling in the secondary hull near the rear where some of the internal bulkheads are. It's so slight that I can't be sure it isn't an optical illusion... Not something I'd request replacements for though.

Mark in Okinawa


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

My kit was # in the mid 900's, (I'm too lazy to open the box and check the number)and I did have a bad dome.
But I do seem to remember Jamie saying that the number on the cert had nothing to do with the order the kits were shot in.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

SusieQ....I sent mine out on 12/01.Did R2 make any contact with you whatsoever before sending OR did it just APPEAR for you yesterday? How was it sent; UPS, USPS??_RICH.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> I wonder how long it will take to get the replacement parts...? I put my request in the mail 11 days ago on 11/25.


I'm going to answer my own question from earlier today...it came in this afternoon! I'm happy to report, too, that the shafts on the replacements appear to be perfect. Good job, Round 2!

My vinyl masks from CultTVMan arrived today too. Just need the light kit and I'm good to go!


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> I'm going to answer my own question from earlier today...it came in this afternoon! I'm happy to report, too, that the shafts on the replacements appear to be perfect. Good job, Round 2!
> 
> My vinyl masks from CultTVMan arrived today too. Just need the light kit and I'm good to go!


I sent my mail on Monday. Got my parts today. A whole sprue with both inner and outer nacelle domes. All perfect


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## SusieQ (Nov 24, 2012)

RICHjm said:


> SusieQ....I sent mine out on 12/01.Did R2 make any contact with you whatsoever before sending OR did it just APPEAR for you yesterday? How was it sent; UPS, USPS??_RICH.


They sent me an email with the tracking number and it was shipped UPS ground.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

Susie Q-Thank you.


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

Mine is #760 and the bussard domes are slightly warped - just slightly. The rest of the kit is prefect. I am not sending for replacements as I am building it as the the 2nd pilot version.


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## eradicator178 (Sep 3, 2008)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> Are both the warped and unwarped parts identical?
> 
> I know it shouldn't be necessary to do, but I know some of you guys cast your own parts from time to time.
> 
> ...


My wife wishes I was degassed!!!!


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

eradicator178 said:


> My wife wishes I was degassed!!!!



Perhaps the *state *of degassment.

She's probably not a fan of the *process,* though. :tongue:


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

On a more serious yet still happy note,

seems like people are getting their replacement parts very quickly. 

I hope they aren't having to cannabalize too many complete kits to do it,

But however they are doing it, they seem to be getting it done fast.

Kudos to R2! :thumbsup:


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

I thought I would pass this along, both inside pylon haves were warp, curved, what ever you wanna call it. after using Testor's liquid cement in the diamond shaped bottle, and making sure every last section of the mating areas were coated well, I taped the ends together with painters tape to make sure the end were held together, and then I laid the pylons on top of a table, then placed a huge book on top, then a box full of stuff, 23 hours later, the pylon is 100 % flat, Round 2 had this figured out, good job.


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## Owtw1997 (Jun 8, 2005)

woof359 said:


> I thought I would pass this along, both inside pylon haves were warp, curved, what ever you wanna call it. after using Testor's liquid cement in the diamond shaped bottle, and making sure every last section of the mating areas were coated well, I taped the ends together with painters tape to make sure the end were held together, and then I laid the pylons on top of a table, then placed a huge book on top, then a box full of stuff, 23 hours later, the pylon is 100 % flat, Round 2 had this figured out, good job.


I just noticed my pylons are warped in the two kits I have. I hadn't read that here before, and then I just logged on and saw your post. Thanks, woof!


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

I would have been freeking if Round 2 hadn't already figured it out, they been on top of this kit for a long time, I'm hoping for other 1/350 kit's if they do the same home work before it kits the stands


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## rtbeuke (Sep 29, 2008)

The turn around was very quick on getting replacement parts for the Bussard Fan/spnner. I Sent my form a week ago on saturday and the parts, the whole sprue, was at my house by Thursday!

Looks like these are too warped but one is pretty close to true and should be usable. As I only needed one this will do.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I was out on vacation last week, so have just mailed my request for new inner domes. Hopefully they come this week.


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## aljf (Nov 16, 2012)

My pylons, one Bussard and Nacell parts 44 are bent , I purchased it from ClutTVman will R2 still replace the parts ?


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

aljf said:


> My pylons, one Bussard and Nacell parts 44 are bent , I purchased it from ClutTVman will R2 still replace the parts ?


Yes. The pylons may not need to be replaced, however. A lot of us have seen a bit of warp in those parts, but when glued together as instructed they straighten out. I suggest you glue them as instructed and flatten them out with a heavy book (the one I used was 1,700 pages!) while the glue dries. They are perfect now.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*pylon fix*

I think most will find at least one half of a pylon set is bent slightly, following the Round 2 instruction fixes the problem, it did for me.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

it was curved prety good when I started, now it's straight


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Just a thought... My lower saucer section has the exact date of manufacture imprinted on it (27th of September, 2012). All my parts are perfect, no warpage, maybe someone with the warped parts can have a look at the date of manufacture on their kit and we may start to see a pattern...
As I said, just a thought.


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## SusieQ (Nov 24, 2012)

My warped lower saucer has 9/25/2012 A1. The replacement saucer I received has the same, 9/25/2012 A1.


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## eradicator178 (Sep 3, 2008)

*Man Oh Man!!!!*

Man, I just opened mine to check the parts. What an awesome kit!! As far as I can tell the parts in question on mine look good. Jamie and crew great job!! I hope there are more large scale kits in the near future!!! :thumbsup:


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## eradicator178 (Sep 3, 2008)

SteveR said:


> Too close to "fecal!"


 Good grief, now we are getting excited about poop!! :tongue:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

eradicator178 said:


> Good grief, now we are getting excited about poop!! :tongue:


Yep, I'm just full of it!


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

12/01 mailed in replacement request form.
12/10 (8:37am) received R2 email:
..."Your parts will ship this afternoon. UPS tracking # is ........ You should see these by the end of the week. Thank you for your patience."

UPDATE: UPS-Friday, 12/14/2012, By End of Day


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## robunimog12 (Nov 30, 2012)

Does your lower saucer have the slight texture to it?
My standard kit finally arrived and the saucer is not warped, but does have a slight texture to it. Same date on mine. 9/25/2012 A1
I guess both top and bottom have a slight texture.I know it has been mentioned before.


QUOTE=SusieQ;4383340]My warped lower saucer has 9/25/2012 A1. The replacement saucer I received has the same, 9/25/2012 A1.[/QUOTE]


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## aljf (Nov 16, 2012)

I Called R2 and asked if I could fax in the parts the guy said yes, so I sent it in this afternoon I will call back tomorrow to see whats up.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Wish I had done that. I thought about how it would have been convenient.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Again, I must ask--are you guy cutting up your boxes? Photocopying the UPCs?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I scanned it (did not cut it up), and sent the printed copy. Jamie sent me an email stating this would be accepted and I sent a copy of that as well. I sent it on Monday and have not heard anything yet. Hopefully soon.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

So, no need to send them the damaged part also?


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

starmanmm said:


> So, no need to send them the damaged part also?


No need.


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## aljf (Nov 16, 2012)

I just received a letter yesterday my warped parts got rejected, saying go back to the place you bought it for a refund. I'm going to call on Monday to see if I can get the Bussards (140 ) replaced


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

aljf said:


> I just received a letter yesterday my warped parts got rejected, saying go back to the place you bought it for a refund. I'm going to call on Monday to see if I can get the Bussards (140 ) replaced


That better not happen for any of the Premiere kits. If so, they don't get the COA back.


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## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

aljf said:


> I just received a letter yesterday my warped parts got rejected, saying go back to the place you bought it for a refund. I'm going to call on Monday to see if I can get the Bussards (140 ) replaced


Are you serious? Was 140 the only part warped in your kit?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

aljf said:


> I just received a letter yesterday my warped parts got rejected, saying go back to the place you bought it for a refund. I'm going to call on Monday to see if I can get the Bussards (140 ) replaced


I will be very angry if this happens. I purchased it through Round 2 (So Autoworld), so they would be the ones I got it from.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Say WHAT?! I'd call and complain!


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## aljf (Nov 16, 2012)

santee said:


> Are you serious? Was 140 the only part warped in your kit?


No it was both Bussard 140 two 44's on the nacells and the pylons. I guess I can live with pylons and parts 44 bent there are fixes, butt I need new 140 parts left and right, Ill call on Monday and see what happens


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

I too am surprised... but I should open my kits and see if I have any issues with both of my Premiere kits.

Ok, one out of two from Autoworld is bad... but only part #140


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Well, I finally cracked open one of my prem kits (CoA# 139/order# 499) to check for bad parts. Unlike my standard kit, the lower saucer looks good. Although, one of the bussard domes is slightly warped, but not as bad as the ones in my standard kit. Everything else looks good. That is, as far as I can tell with the parts still in their bags. I also peeled the foil "limited" sticker from the wrapper and put it on the box.

I have sent a parts request for the standard kit with a scanned UPC. I hope they won't reject it. If they do, and if it is just a matter of the UPC, I'll cut it off.


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## aljf (Nov 16, 2012)

Just called and spoke to Doug, looks like both Bussard 140 parts will be replaced:tongue:


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

aljf said:


> Just called and spoke to Doug, looks like both Bussard 140 parts will be replaced:tongue:


Glad to hear it! :thumbsup:


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

I finally got around to submitting my parts requests for my premire and standard kits. Even though I only need them for one of the kits, I don't like getting messed up parts in general. I also put in a request for my refit for a couple parts, hence why it took so long for me to send in the requests.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I submitted my request back on the 9th. Mailed it in. I still have not heard anything. I hope I hear something soon. My work on the engines is waiting on that part.


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

Same here, mine went out on the 10th for part #140 and included the lower dish as it was really badly deformed where it appeared it was laid down while still hot and settled on the section in contact with the surface. I can work around #140 till close to finishing, but the lower dish is a big hold up. In Round 2 defense, I do understand that this is something that would be impossible to predict and the model is still worth the wait.


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## shopper (Dec 6, 2003)

Just opened and checked my Premiere Kit (CoA# 381/Order # 465)-had warped part #140 (x2) and a distorted lower saucer. Sent the paperwork in yesterday. My Standard Ed purchased later had just the parts #140 warped. Sent request in to Round 2 almost 2 weeks ago. Documentation including digital photos of the UPC's. Ironically the build dates were both 9/25/2012 A1 and the UPC #'s were only 2 digits off from each other. No other problems were noted with either kit. I am overall very pleased with the kits!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

I haven't heard nor received anything yet, myself. All I needed were the two clear fan domes (#140 X 2) but I'm thinking they're probably getting a lot of requests for those parts now and it is taking some time to get everything in gear for replacing them and other parts. I'm not in a huge hurry so I'm not panicking yet. Should get them eventually.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I haven't heard nor received anything yet, myself. All I needed were the two clear fan domes (#140 X 2) but I'm thinking they're probably getting a lot of requests for those parts now and it is taking some time to get everything in gear for replacing them and other parts. I'm not in a huge hurry so I'm not panicking yet. Should get them eventually.


I requested 2 but found I only need 1. I'll post when I hear something.


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## santee (Nov 15, 2012)

aljf said:


> Just called and spoke to Doug, looks like both Bussard 140 parts will be replaced:tongue:


Right on! thanks for the update. :thumbsup:


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## aljf (Nov 16, 2012)

both Bussard 140 parts arrived:thumbsup:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Hmmmm .... well I am assuming due to the Christmas holiday that the part I requested on the 9th may be a bit delayed. If I don't see anything over the next week, I may call.

UPDATE: I emailed Jamie but haven't gotten a response yet. I suspect they are on holiday break there.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

I sent my Mom a package last week, paid for 2nd day delivery.........took 6 days to get there, but , hey, at least it was there before XMas (-:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Just got both Bussards and fan domes today. The fan domes were perfect. I did a test run on the motors and all looks great.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Opus Penguin said:


> Just got both Bussards and fan domes today. The fan domes were perfect. I did a test run on the motors and all looks great.


how did you test the motors. can you just use a 9v battery with the pos and neg wires from the motors


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> how did you test the motors. can you just use a 9v battery with the pos and neg wires from the motors


I just plugged it to the circuit board per the instructions (power hooked up to one socket while the motors went into another) and used the plug that came with the kit. I plugged it in the wall and everything worked.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I am looking at getting a switch to turn everything on. I am leaning strongly to not messing with the speed of the motors since I think they look fine. However I will hook up a separate switch to power the impulse engines, so they can be off or on while the whole lighting unit is on.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

My replacement domes arrived today - thanks PL!


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Regarding replacement requests... are you receiving any prior notice, or are the parts just arriving. I've not heard anything about my request, yet.

Also, I scanned my UPC. Have any of you done this and received your parts?


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Rahn said:


> Regarding replacement requests... are you receiving any prior notice, or are the parts just arriving. I've not heard anything about my request, yet.
> 
> Also, I scanned my UPC. Have any of you done this and received your parts?


My UPC was a scan. And I got an email from PL telling me when they mailed it off (came in a sturdy, round cardboard tube. Wrapped in foam sheeting. Just perfect).


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Rahn said:


> Regarding replacement requests... are you receiving any prior notice, or are the parts just arriving. I've not heard anything about my request, yet.
> 
> Also, I scanned my UPC. Have any of you done this and received your parts?


Mine was the same as Ross (shipped in tube, scanned image of UPC sent in), but I never got notice. It just showed up in the mail. Oh ... it did come from Autoworld which explains the long wait.

If it takes too long, let me know. I now have an extra fan dome and two extra Bussard domes if you need any of them.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

I just got my replacements today too. One #140 is slightly bent that's ok, as long as I have 2 good ones. They parts came from Autoworldstore which caught me by surprise. I wonder if I'll get my parts for the refit. I never got an email or anything, they just showed up.

In other news, I got my light kit for my Moebious Jupitor 2. :thumbsup:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

tardis1916 said:


> In other news, I got my light kit for my Moebious Jupitor 2. :thumbsup:


Hee hee ... same here. Got it with the Big E replacement parts. I left it in the box for now. The J2 will be my next project when the E is done.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

My replacement parts came in the mail on Monday in a tube as mentioned above and wrapped in multiple layers of thin foam. I received the tree that had the Bussard domes as well as the #140 inner domes. The inner dome (fan blade) parts were all that were warped on the model kit and all that I requested to be replaced so the outer domes are bonuses that will go to good use.

I mailed off the request on Tuesday, Dec. 4th and received the parts on the 24th--20 days or almost three weeks. I'd say that's a darned good turnaround time considering the number of requests they're probably getting. :thumbsup:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I mailed off the request on Tuesday, Dec. 4th and received the parts on the 24th--20 days or almost three weeks. I'd say that's a darned good turnaround time considering the number of requests they're probably getting. :thumbsup:


And it being the holidays too.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Opus Penguin said:


> And it being the holidays too.


Yes, good point!:thumbsup:


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## scifiguy67 (Jan 18, 2011)

just got my big E for Christmas & my part #140 is warped too! time for replacements


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

Ordered on the 10th, hoping to get them by the weekend since I have some time off for New Years.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

While I am still waiting to hear _something_ regarding my parts request, I have a question.

What delivery service (USPS, UPS, etc.) are they using for the replacements?

My concern is that UPS can NEVER seem to find my apartment, behind another house. Therefore, if by UPS, I may not even know of a delivery attempt.

Of course, USPS knows where I am. They come here every day.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

It is USPS. Mine came snail mail.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Opus Penguin said:


> It is USPS. Mine came snail mail.


Thank you, at least I can stop stressing on that point.

Now if I would just hear something, or have them arrive (inner bussard domes and lower saucer).

My lighting kit arrived a week ago and I'm chomping at the bit to get started.

Since I intend to fill the grid, not having the lower saucer has me waiting. Once I KNOW a replacement is coming, I can use the warped one for 'experimenting' on filling techniques.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Just opened #1263: both inner bussards and lower primary hull are fine. 
So far, so good. :thumbsup:


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Anyone else out there still waiting to hear from R2 regarding replace parts?

Everyone seemed to be getting quick responses from them, but it's been over two weeks since I mailed in my request, and I still have not heard anything from Round2.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not posting this with any sort of anger. With the holidays and all, I surely did not expect parts in-hand within two weeks. I just want to know if some solution is in the works, or if I need to think of something else.

I tried emailing over the weekend for verification that they received my request, but the email bounced back as undeliverable.

I then tried sending a message through their website's commenting page. I did get an automated response that my message was received, but no followup information as of yet.

I know I could manage to correct the warped domes, but I also suffer from a warped lower saucer. That I can't correct, unless I want to start taking parts from my Prem Kit (which I'd be willing to do, if I knew a replacement was coming). I won't like having to use two kits (in this case) to create one model.

So, at the moment, I'm on hold.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

It took almost two and a half weeks to get mine, so be patient a little longer. Also parts are coming from Autoworld, which also explains the delay. These were the same guys that took forever sending out the premiere kits.


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## kahn1701 (Jul 11, 2005)

I bought 5 kits and 2 Deluxe accessory sets from autoworld.Three regular and 2 prem kits.
all had worped part.To maney to list here.Almost two total ships worth.
I mailed 3 parts list on 12-6-2012 called 3 time...... Nothing......
I love the kit..Can't you tell..LOL
Round 2 just need to fix it...

Signed lost in TOS land...

I'm the person that built the Steve Neills 66 TOS Enterprise on youtube..(kahn1701)
The start of that build only took 2 weeks.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

kahn1701 said:


> I bought 5 kits and 2 Deluxe accessory sets from autoworld.Three regular and 2 prem kits.
> all had worped part.To maney to list here.Almost two total ships worth.
> I mailed 3 parts list on 12-6-2012 called 3 time...... Nothing......


That's not real encouraging, but I may have a glimmer of hope.

Evidently, my bounced back emails were getting through after all.

I received an email from Meghan at Round2, simply saying "I am looking into this".

Good to know I have at least made contact.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Didn't know that Steve Neill put out a 66 TOS.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

(In a Jackie Chiles voice)

Yup, and it is spectacular!


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Rahn said:


> Evidently, my bounced back emails were getting through after all.
> 
> I received an email from Meghan at Round2, simply saying "I am looking into this".
> 
> Good to know I have at least made contact.


I am so frustrated.

It's been a week since Meghan said 'I am looking into this', four days since I emailed her again for an update, a month since mailing my initial request, and I've heard nothing more.

Without the lower saucer, this project is dead.

I will attempt contact again this weekend. I'm about to even offer to buy the parts if it will accomplish anything.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

kahn1701 said:


> I bought 5 kits and 2 Deluxe accessory sets from autoworld.Three regular and 2 prem kits.
> all had worped part.To maney to list here.Almost two total ships worth.


 That is truly outrageous! I would be fuming.




Rahn said:


> I am so frustrated.
> 
> It's been a week since Meghan said 'I am looking into this', four days since I emailed her again for an update, a month since mailing my initial request, and I've heard nothing more.
> 
> ...


No surprise. I have concluded that when it comes to customer service issues where a company has no monetary gain, "I will look into it" = "I have more important things to do. :wave:"


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I think they might just be overwhelmed with requests for replacement parts...... I just got my standard kit and the lower saucer's outer diameter is too small so the top can't seat with it, it just pops out of the channel at the opposite side not matter how hard I hold it down, so clamping as I glue won't work. Even though my bussard domes aren't warped, one of the shaft ends collapsed in on it's self so I can't get the motor's shaft in. I tried drilling it out and due to the rounded end the bit wondered and is off center.......:freak: Looks like I'll be joining the long line of people waiting for new parts.......:drunk:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Teslab, I have an extra fan dome and even Bussard domes if you want it. I have extras when I requested replacements. Unfortunately I can't help on the saicer.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Opus Penguin said:


> Teslab, I have an extra fan dome and even Bussard domes if you want it. I have extras when I requested replacements. Unfortunately I can't help on the saicer.


After taking care of Teslab, if you have an extra outter dome I would like to make some kind of arrangement for one.

I chipped one of mine removing a sprue.


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## Owtw1997 (Jun 8, 2005)

Rahn said:


> I am so frustrated.
> 
> It's been a week since Meghan said 'I am looking into this', four days since I emailed her again for an update, a month since mailing my initial request, and I've heard nothing more.
> 
> ...


Yes, I've been waiting a long time, too. I sent mine in on December 14th and haven't heard anything. I'm going to call next week.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Opus Penguin said:


> Teslab, I have an extra fan dome and even Bussard domes if you want it. I have extras when I requested replacements. Unfortunately I can't help on the saicer.


Thank you very much Opus that's a very kind offer.....:wave: I only need 
the fan dome so it looks like you could also offer Rahn the Bussard dome.....:thumbsup: I'll send you a PM.


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## shopper (Dec 6, 2003)

My standard kit had warped Bussard spinner shafts and were replaced by Auto World within 2 weeks of mailing the paperwork back in mid- December. My premiere kit has the warped bussard spinner shafts and a distorted lower saucer ("planetary sensor area"). I sent all of that paperwork in to Round 2 on 12/18. I sent an email to Jamie Hood at Round 2 on 1/10 and got an answer back on 1/11 stating he observed a ton of parts being packed up the day before. He was going to pass along my inquiry and see what he could find out. Perhaps our replacement parts are on the way. Hey, I am a patient person and I am confident that Round 2 will make it right. I'll just build something else in the meantime


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

I'm a patient person as well, when it comes to _receiving_ the parts.

What I don't appreciate is when all I'm asking is:

1. Did they receive my request, and

2. If they do, or do not, intend to honor it.

and, getting no information in return.

I don't feel that's asking too much. Its called customer service.

Instead, I'm allowed to feel ignored.

It's hard to enjoy working on it, after having invested hundreds of dollars (that I don't come by easily), and not knowing if I can finish it.


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

I feel your pain!

I sent my replacement order off on Dec 10th due to my lower saucer being deformed and I have the bad shaft on parts 140 too. I can work around the bussard domes, but I can't bring myself to get enthusiastic about doing any work without a full set of good parts especially one so critical as the lower saucer. So she sits cleaned and packed away in a large plastic box awaiting my parts.  

I just wish I had send my paper work in with delivery confirmation. As Captain Kirk would say - "Double dumb a$$ on me"


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## shopper (Dec 6, 2003)

Rahn said:


> I'm a patient person as well, when it comes to _receiving_ the parts.
> 
> What I don't appreciate is when all I'm asking is:
> 
> ...



I don't disagree at all with you-my experience so far has not had the lack of communication/response by Customer Service as you have had. My guess is that Round 2 did not anticipate the problems with the kits and they are overwhelmed. Hopefully Round 2 take the lessons learned and fix the production problem(s) whatever they may be. Then consider improvements handling customer inquiries to communicate better. I am confident Round 2 will make it right as soon as possible. In my case with 2 kits to work from, I can mix the parts from the 2 kits to commence building and let the other parts arrive when they do.


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

Quick dome warpage fix. Insert shaft of bussard dome #140 into light base #42. Apply soldering iron tip to center of dome until the point where the shaft meets the dome softens. Shift dome until it sits flush and centered on light base. Spin dome like cat with new toy. Resume life.:thumbsup:


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## shopper (Dec 6, 2003)

Received replacement lower saucer and spinner domes today. Order date was 12/18. Good to go!


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

shopper said:


> Received replacement lower saucer and spinner domes today. Order date was 12/18. Good to go!


Curse you!

Just kidding. Congrats!


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

I got mine today also and they are perfect! I ordered the replacement on 12/10 so Rahn I hope you and anyone else that is waiting gets your soon.


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## slcollis (Feb 16, 2004)

Got mine today. It took about three weeks.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Wow. Feeling about like Charlie Brown on Halloween.

I just sent another email to Round2.


_Hello,

I am attempting, again, to obtain information regarding my request for parts replacement (PDF copy attached).

All I’m seeking is to be informed IF...

1. My request has been received/acknowledged, and

2. Is my request being processed.


I don’t mean to seem cross, but I do feel quite discouraged.

Between the purchase of the main kit, the accessory set, tools, supplies, etc., I have hundreds of dollars invested in this project. But, having such a major part as Part #1 being defective prevents me from even wanting to try to invest any time on a project that could, potentially, be impossible to finish.

I understand that warped parts have been an issue for this kit, and I am sure the Round2 is being inundated with parts requests.

I hold no bad feelings toward Round2 for the warp issues. That is the fault of quality control in a plant a half a world away. I am sorry that Round2 is having to deal with the mess caused at the manufacturing level. I do hope that Round2 has some recourse to receive reparations from the manufacturer.

But, being caught in the middle also makes Round2 the first line in Customer Service, and I am a customer.


This is where Round2 is letting me down.


Please understand, I am a patient man. I understand that Round2 has probably had numerous part requests to deal with. I can wait my turn in line, but I need to KNOW I’m in line.

Even being a patient man, I do not appreciate feeling ignored. No one would.

So, I ask these questions again. Hoping someone will take a few minutes to find the answers and relay them to me, in the name of Customer Service.

To, at least, know a solution is on the way would feel a lot better than not knowing anything.


On a more positive note:

Overall, the kit is incredible. An awesome job from all involved (save whomever was operating the injection machine the day my kit was molded). It is the best engineered kit I have ever seen.

I was excited from the first time I heard of it’s development. It is the first modeling project I will have started in over 20 years.

Barring the warp issues, the kit is worth every dollar I’ve spent on and towards it. But, only if it can be completed.


I (still) eagerly await your reply.


Thank you, and good day.

A Customer​_

Let's see if I hear anything back.


To all you with your new parts... GET TO WORK!


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

I feel for you, Rahn, nobody likes to be ignored. And there's no excuse for that at all. What exactly is causing the warped and or ill-fitting parts, anyway? Aren't the parts manufactured to R2 specs? Doesn't R2 have personnel in place to oversee quality control. I believe R2_ is_ responsible here, directly or indirectly. How maddening.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Proper2 said:


> What exactly is causing the warped and or ill-fitting parts, anyway? Aren't the parts manufactured to R2 specs?


The cause seems to be due to part trees being ejected from the mold before they have sufficiently cooled to hold their structure.

I have noticed that most of the warpage seems to have occurred toward the center of a tree or large part, leaning toward that theory.

I feel that would lend itself to the technical knowledge of the manufacturer.

I could design a house as the architect (Round2), but if a builder does not know or care about their building methods, it will not be built correctly.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Yay, a response.

_I am very sorry that you have not heard from us on this issue. I have check with our parts department and your request for parts were sent out last week. You should be receiving them by the end of this week. If you do not receive it by then please let me know. Again I am very sorry for the lack of communication.​_


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Whoo hoo! You know, I suspect the delay was due to them having to send out so many replacement parts. Regardless it does not explain the lack of communication.


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Here's hoping the factory has learned that pulling the sprues too soon results in a lot of rework having to recast the same sprue for the replacement. Maybe the problem won't occur any more or at least not as often.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

*Move production stateside already!!*


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

It's common sense that any kind of reasonable quality control would have checked to see how the initial parts on sprues were "cooling" to determine times and tempertures. No matter if this took place in China or Timbuktu, or Detroit, Michigan. There needed to be some personnel in place for this. This is no rocket science and R2 is no newbie at this. It's the old saying that proves true time and time again: “There’s never enough time to do it right, but there is always enough time to do it again.” No excuses here!


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## REL (Sep 30, 2005)

beeblebrox said:


> Quick dome warpage fix. Insert shaft of bussard dome #140 into light base #42. Apply soldering iron tip to center of dome until the point where the shaft meets the dome softens. Shift dome until it sits flush and centered on light base. Spin dome like cat with new toy. Resume life.:thumbsup:



Fantastic solution!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Captain April said:


> *Move production stateside already!!*



Yup, more cost initially but I wonder in the long run.

I also wonder if the factory is pulling the parts out too fast on purpose.

I can't imagine that R2 and the factory don't know how long the parts take to properly cool. I would think that removing them early would allow for more kits to be produced in a 24 hour period, could this excess production be for the black market?

When you don't control every aspect of production all sorts of funny things can happen.

I have to wonder if production was stateside, how much more would it really cost factoring in time, language, shipping, and the risk of some of your production run ending up on the black market.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Also factor in how much R2 is out just in replacement parts, for warped parts that, if certain persons had been paying attention, shouldn't have gone bad in the first place.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Captain April said:


> Also factor in how much R2 is out just in replacement parts, for warped parts that, if certain persons had been paying attention, shouldn't have gone bad in the first place.


Hopefully they have significant financial recourse against the offshore factory.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Captain April said:


> Also factor in how much R2 is out just in replacement parts, for warped parts that, if certain persons had been paying attention, shouldn't have gone bad in the first place.


If its the factory's responsibility, they are on the hook for the replacement parts.
I work in Seoul and when the studio does something not acceptable, they have to fix it at their own cost. Including shipping costs to the states.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

aaaahhhhhh AAAAAHHHHH... (think angels singing).

The clouds have opened up...

I GOT MY PARTS!

Kinda.


I live in a small apartment addressed 509-A. It sits behind a house, 507.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that UPS can never seem to find my place.

On my lunch hour I went to the apartments next door, 519-A, and there was my box. Sitting there, already open.

I figure the tenant got it yesterday, opened it, thought WTH is this and put it out for UPS to pick it up. 

No one was home.

Luckily, I got it first.

I went back there after work to explain that I took the box.

Rang the bell, someone looked through the blinds, but would not open the door. Not even a "who is it".

Guess I'm too scary looking, lol.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Dodged a bullet there....


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## shopper (Dec 6, 2003)

Rahn said:


> aaaahhhhhh AAAAAHHHHH... (think angels singing).
> 
> The clouds have opened up...
> 
> ...


Glad to hear you got them!


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## kahn1701 (Jul 11, 2005)

I just send a 3rd email to round2 today.
Going on 2 months.
This is getting old quick.
I bought 5 kits and 2 Deluxe accessory sets from autoworld.Three regular and 2 prem kits.
all had worped part.To maney to list here.Almost two total ships worth.
I mailed 3 parts list on 12-6-2012 called 3 time...... Nothing......
I love the kit..Can't you tell..LOL
Round 2 just need to fix it...

Signed lost in TOS land...

I'm the person that built one of the 1st Steve Neills 66 TOS Enterprise props on youtube..(kahn1701)
The start of that build only took 2 weeks.
The TOS 1-350s are going on 2 month.
Shame on you Round 2....


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## kahn1701 (Jul 11, 2005)

Now I just found 2 of my round PCB boards are not working.
I've been building models for 40 years.
Never been so let down.
I have over $1,400.00 invested in these 1-350 TOS models.
Its just such a total let down..
I'm sure Round 2 will fix it..
Its just after I build the great models I will always think of the trouble I had.
Before I even started building..
I'm at a loss for works...
SUCKS!


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Try calling first thing in the morning to try to talk to Doug. TOLL FREE: 1-888-910-2889
or Local Call: 1-574-247-6900. I've had most success reaching Doug fairly early in the am. I think they open at 8 Eastern.


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## kahn1701 (Jul 11, 2005)

Hello all

I got a email from Greg at Round2.

Hi Paul,(kahn1701) my name is Greg and I am the person in charge of filling parts request forms from customers experiencing issues with their kits. I would like to personally apologize for your delay and wanted to get you up to speed on the status of your request. This will my first priority in the morning as I got the email late in the day. 

Your delay is partially my fault as I put this on hold due to the unavailability of replacement parts when the kit was introduced. Kits sold at an extremely fast rate and we had no extra parts for customers like yourself. We had our production plants working quite a bit to catch up for the demand. Once available, I started replacing parts orders – somehow by mistake not filling your parts requests.

I have all 3 forms that you have clearly marked. I know of 1 glitch as I send this – we had more clear shots of part 140 made due to the offset axle, and are due in our warehouse any day. If I do not see them in by Thursday I will send all parts except #140 and ship them to you same day we receive them. 

If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to email me directly. When your package is shipped, I will email you the tracking number so you may follow it at your leisure. Thank you again for your patience and understanding.

Sincerely,
Greg Luzney
Round 2, LLC

That was nice of him to fess up about the real problem and how he is going fix it.
Part #140 is really killing them.
I feel much better about the hole thing now.
After 2 months all I really needed was some one to let me know something..
Now I just need to know about my 2 round PCB boards.

Thanks you all for your support.
Kahn1701 Out for now.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

kahn1701 said:


> That was nice of him to fess up about the real problem and how he is going fix it.



Yeah! You gotta respect that kind of customer service. Seem to be good, honest folks. :thumbsup:


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Communication is a beautiful thing...


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## kahn1701 (Jul 11, 2005)

Hi all.
I just got a great email from Round2.Thought I should pass it on.
There just great people to work with over there.
Thanks Round2.


Hi Paul/kahn1701
Thanks for your patience. Good news – the part 140 came in late this afternoon so all 3 part request forms are being filled. We are also including the round PCB boards per your email request. Thank you for providing your invoice information.

Unfortunately the parts showed up after UPS picked up for the day, so this will be my first packing project for Monday’s outbound. I am glad we have it all together for you and I’m excited to get you your parts so you may continue your projects. Enjoy your weekend.

Sincerely,


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Ok, now I am ready to order my replacement parts. I have the premier kits and was wondering, based upon what I have read here and on the site...
1. Even though the R2 sites states that no copies of the UPC and date code are accepted, that they did make an exception for these kit to accept copies correct?
2. I have not noticed that anyone talked about paying for the replacement parts… so, am I suppose to pay for them or not?

Thanks!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Their replacement part site states you have to have it, but I would email them to be sure. IIRC this offer was only for the premiere kits but I could be wrong. If you do need to pay for anything it is just shipping and handling. I had to get my bridge dome and an LED from the light kit replaced. Up to 5 parts is $5.95 shipping so I just sent a check for them.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

I replaced parts on a standard kit I bought through CultTVMan.com, and R2 still accepted a scan of the UPC.

I did not have to pay anything to get the parts. I believe this is the case for replacing defective parts. Simply requesting a part due to loss or damage would require cost.


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## Robman007 (Jan 23, 2013)

First post here, but I do have a question....

...I've been putting a ton of work into my kit, really looking nice. I go to start with the lighting in the warp engines, and upon going through my light set, realize I have ZERO J wires.

Now, would it be easier for me to just go to a Radio Shack and get wire and a connector, or should I go through this very long and from the sound of it, frustrating, process of getting a replacement part through Round 2/Polar Lights on something that should have had better quality control (for the 150 price tag)?


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

If you aren't going to light the impulse engines, clip those bulbs and use the connectors.


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## Robman007 (Jan 23, 2013)

I actually plan on lighting the impulse drive. I've installed blue LED's into the Warp Engine grills (loved the effect on hdatx youtube page) and have finished with my base coating/wet sanding of the outside and did a black primer with a chrome paint over the black (which looks amazing), but I'm at a stand still without the J wires (although I'm able to test the lights with my dad's kit...we are both working on identical builds (with some minor creative differences)..

I thought about hitting up a radio shack, or ordering the PCB connector and wires online if I can get the PCB connector size (i'm not near my kit at the moment, but would love to go get some supplies after work)..


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I received my replacement parts...mostly. Not bad, since I put in the request less than two weeks ago.

Got the nacelle domes. At first glance, they look good. I'll have to take a closer look when I get a chance.


But I didn't get a new lower saucer. I can only assume that it'll ship when they're available, as the domes did.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

IIRC they had a lot of parts that needed to be replaced. The lower saucer was one of the ones that they were waiting for more coming in.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

If someone out there used to work in the industry and KNOWS with decent certainty the answer to the following question, I'd like to hear it. If you're just going to GUESS or CONJECTURE, let's not clog up the thread.

Is R2 having to pay for the replacement parts, or is the factory replacing them at their cost since they produced defective parts to begin with?


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## scifiguy67 (Jan 18, 2011)

received my parts today lower saucer and domes less than two weeks! thanks R2!


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## SocrManiac (Jul 19, 2005)

Fozzie said:


> If someone out there used to work in the industry and KNOWS with decent certainty the answer to the following question, I'd like to hear it. If you're just going to GUESS or CONJECTURE, let's not clog up the thread.
> 
> Is R2 having to pay for the replacement parts, or is the factory replacing them at their cost since they produced defective parts to begin with?


It all depends on what quality agreements were in place and how the prints were written. There's typically a tolerance on any type of defect on a plastic part. If the defect was within the original print tolerance, then it's on R2. Otherwise, it'll be up to the molder to supply replacement product at their expense.

The engineering on this kit requires tighter tolerances than a typical model. Functional mechanics is a different animal over what you'd normally find in an off the shelf static model kit. Far too often I've seen otherwise fantastic and skilled engineers botch a tolerance stack that's blown a functional aspect of an assembly. 

There's also the matter of the acceptance of the initial parts. Round 2 didn't receive a set of parts and simply sign off on it- they built kits up to ensure functionality. Those initial shots may have been fine. At this point, process control characteristics (ie, the dimensions and features that are checked regularly) are at times relaxed. 

The one sentence answer: there's no way to know exactly where the fault lies without knowing what the molder is being held to.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Still waiting on the replacement lower saucer. Kinda weird to see that some others have already received theirs. Hmmm.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

They may still be working through a backlog of requests.

I got a premiere kit with a lot of warped parts, but waited a couple months before sending in my request... no big rush on my part. I do demand good parts though! That was a few weeks back, 21 January.

In the interim, we could check in just to verify receipt of the requests?


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## Phillip1 (Jul 24, 2009)

Fellow Modelers,

I wanted to relay my customer service experience with Round2. After inspecting my Premier USS Enterprise (certificate 361) kit I was lucky that the only defective parts I had were bent shafts on Part 140. I mailed replacement request on 2/15/13 and got them yesterday (2/22/13). Now that is customer service! Way to go Round2.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

Phillip1 said:


> Fellow Modelers,
> 
> I wanted to relay my customer service experience with Round2. After inspecting my Premier USS Enterprise (certificate 361) kit I was lucky that the only defective parts I had were bent shafts on Part 140. I mailed replacement request on 2/15/13 and got them yesterday (2/22/13). Now that is customer service! Way to go Round2.


Round 2's email from a couple of days ago said they were getting the replacements to those who needed them within 2 weeks of the request now.

They also have 60 of the Premier kits left for those who want them at $199 each.


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## Nektu (Aug 15, 2001)

i am well over a month for the parts I needed. How do I get things to move a bit quicker? LK


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

swhite228 said:


> Round 2's email from a couple of days ago said they were getting the replacements to those who needed them within 2 weeks of the request now.
> 
> They also have 60 of the Premier kits left for those who want them at $199 each.


They now have only 39 left. Would love to buy 'em all up but can't. :dude:


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

I sent my request out about the same time (2/15) still waiting... but I did expect a slight wait.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Still waiting on that lower saucer!


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