# Have some questions on 1/24th car racing



## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

Just recently I found out there will be a 1/24th slot car track opening up in my town and need some help. Could someone tell me what are the best cars and controllers to get?

I am not sure what classes are going to be run yet? But I do know they have a Blue King track and putting together a Tri-Oval. The track is scheduled to open in September for racing.
Thx.


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## SuperFist (Aug 7, 2005)

First you'll have to go to the track to find out what classes they will be racing,
and talk to the track owner and track pros about the set up.
They are there to help you.

Most likely it will be 4" flex chassis cars with Parma 16D 501 motors or Super 16D 502 motors.
I like the Parma F5 but I like the F1 too if you don't want to spend the money for an F5.
But some people like the Champion and JK chassis, but I'm not one of them.

The standard for good 24 scale controllers are Parma Turbo controllers 3 or 4 ohm.
Anything lower ohm than that I think get too hot.

It's important you get your cars and parts from the track to support the track.

__________________


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## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

Thx. for reply,
I know all about supporting the track. I have been racing rc cars for some time now and support the track everytime I can. I am buying a flexi 2 from the track manager this week and want to pick up a few others to see what chassis I like. I am not sure if they have the classes laid out yet. Looks like I may have to sell the rc cars to support my slot addiction. Just one more question. How hoy should the motors get? That f2 car does not have the top end I think it should have. I have a temp. gun from racing rc cars and may get some temp. readings.


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## SuperFist (Aug 7, 2005)

If you are not getting the top speed from the cars try a 10 tooth conical pinion with a 28 to 30 tooth sprocket if the rules will allow that.
Instead of the stock 9 tooth straight pinion and 31 tooth sprocket.
The conical pinions mesh good too with the sprocket.

If you are buying motors they are in a sealed bag, but you can rotate the armature in the sealed can motor and see the wire wraps on the armature.
Look for tight even wire wraps with no crossed over wires, those will be the good motors.

And use .790 rear tires preferably Parma MX, Parma Big Ones or Parma Tuna.
No Alpha or Pro Track tires you'll find they don't grip as good as Parma.

There are other things that you can do.
.010 1/8" steel spacers on the rear axles running against the oil lites reduces friction.
Loctite removable thread locker on the motor mounting screws, or they will come loose.
Install your body mount clips hooked in the front holes and clipped in the back holes,
and tape the clips in on the back with clear tape up the side of the body and under the chassis pan.
Slick 7 Voodoo for braid conditioner it's not greasy like the Parma stuff and the braids won't pick up any crap.

The Flexi 2 is not one of my favorite chassis it's kinda massive and the Flexi 3 is too heavy.
I've always used the old discontinued Flexi 4 they are small and light but are hard to find.
* Flexi 5 or the Flexi Kar (F1) are proven winners.

Just keep at it and hopefully you'll get to the winners circle before anyone else does.

__________________


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## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

Thx. for all the great info. superfist. I will definetly try all of the above. Already got the car, so now I will have to pick up some more. Cut the coms be cut on the motors? I have cut comms on 27 turn RC car motors and got more life out of them. How often do the motor bearings get lubed? Are the formica set-up/ body mounting boards any good? Or is there something better?


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## TEAM D.V.S. (Nov 11, 2007)

Superfist was a source for good 24th scale info for sure. Also make sure your guide flag returns to center after a crash this will cost you if it does not ! See if you can solder your motor in place have a good gear mesh and flat spot your rear axel where the crown gear set screw goes. I use to use a JK cheetah chasis back in the day i am not sure how good they are now, but i had good success with them! 

Good Luck Jaybo


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## SuperFist (Aug 7, 2005)

TEAM D.V.S. said:


> Superfist was a source for good 24th scale info for sure. Also make sure your guide flag returns to center after a crash this will cost you if it does not ! ...


I sent a PM to T4sforme about that.

I take small bread twist ties and secure the lead wires on the outboard side of the chassis on the front axle or any place that is convenient.
So there are 2 equal loops going to the guide so when the car comes off the guide will center itself for the track marshals to put it back on.
That can save you a lot of time during a race.

And I put the lead wires in the guide from the top coming out the forward of the guide.
Then push the braid plate back underneath it then fold the end of the lead wire under the guide next to the braid.
I do it that way because too much messing around with the lead wires with kinks in them will result in a broken lead wire at the wrong time.
You want to be kind to your lead wires.

__________________


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## TEAM D.V.S. (Nov 11, 2007)

I USE TO SOLDER THE BACK OF A EAR RING to the chassis and do the same technic thru the little holes of the earring piece.


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## glueside (Jul 31, 2010)

First thing is first - CONTROLLER. You have to have a controller that will last and last and race what you what to race no matter what. I would suggest a Difalco 15 or 30 band controller. I know you are going to say that they are expensive, but you can use them for every class you are going to ever race, especially the 30 band with the interchangeable resistor sets.

Next if you are running on the King us a JK 11 or 21 chassis and if you are running on the oval us a Champion chassis. In my book they are easier to get setup quicker than the Parma chassis.

Send me an e-mail and I will send you an article about building the Champion Turbo Flex.


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## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

*Solder*

Been a while since I have asked, but what is the best solder to use to solder motors in, oilites etc.? I have been using silver bearing solder 62/36/2 for soldering motor wires for my rc cars, but was wondering if there is something better for slotcars?
Thx.


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## tomhocars (Oct 19, 2005)

I have raced slots for 40 years.I think you will have the most fun with 16d and super 16d motors.Don't start with anything faster.Guys always want to start with a rocket ship.You will learn the basics a lot faster with the lower class cars.


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## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

Thx. Tom, We all at this track are a little new to slot car racing. Been a few guys that have ran cars for some practice and we have just been practicng racing, but have not really set-up any rules or official classes at our track. I have raced rc cars and know way more about racing them, but this track is in my hometown and with the price of gas going up. It fits my budget to race these slot cars. I have ran the 16d and super 16d and would not have any problem racing those cars. Those rocket ship cars you speak of seam to blow apart pretty easily when they fly off the track.LOL


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## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

*Solder*

Does anybody have any opinions on solder?
Thx.


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## glueside (Jul 31, 2010)

60/40 only - I have used it for over 20 years and never had a problem, except for my obsession of not putting enough solder on.


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## Mac The Knife (Jul 23, 2002)

I have good luck with Radio Shack 60/40 solder, and Oatey liquid flux for soldering the bushings, and motor.


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## T4sforme (Dec 31, 2007)

Thx. for the info. Glueside and Mac. Now I did think of one other qustion for now. I have been useing Trinity Death Grip and Lighter Fluid for tire traction compound. I am mostly useing Alpa tires because that is the tire the track sells, but they are getting different tires soon. I want to support the track.


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