# My Seaview build (WIP)



## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

Keep in mind my goal here is not to make an accurate studio model, but to make a realistic looking submarine out of this great kit. 
After installing the Voodoo FX LEDS, plastics strips with epoxy were added to the top of the fins to be sanded into a sharp edge. I added another escape hatch aft I saw on a few drawings to add some visual interest to the fin area. 
















Panel lines were added to the sail. I used photos from Dallas class attack subs as a sort of loose guide. I made the sail planes articulate and added zapped super glue to sharpen the trailing edge tips. The doors were sanded off the sail and the Paragraphix brass doors were installed. Windows will be added to each door later.










I thinned the interior of the hull to open all the limber holes and made a secondary pressure hull inside with sheet styrene. It was first painted a dark grey before installation.

















I will add more a bit later. Milt :wave:


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Amazing work. I love seeing the work going into the Seaview builds and the different areas of focus that really individualise the models.

Looking forward to seeing more photos!


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

It is nice to see a different version of the Seaview. Small, but, unique changes


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Looks Great!!

It's nice to see someone actually Building a model.......


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

She looks great.... A fine bit of work so far, can't wait to see it progress. I need to get back on mine, the FS has distracked me......


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Verry nice!

It's a hoot to work on isn't it?
Steve


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## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

Heres the control room using the decals from Henry Prentiss of TSDS, Inc.. Great guy who helped me out quite a bit. Thanks Henry! 
. I added some detail to the backs of the seats. And a few odds and ends to make it different. 
















Heres Chip!









Flying Sub access hatch detail.


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## gregsb (Jun 25, 2008)

Excellent detail and decals work. Any more angles? Would love to see more.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

That looks super! I like your interesting take on installing the ceiling beams.

I can't wait to see more of your buildup.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Wow.. the control room look a lot different, have you got any other shots of it?
I'd like to see those wips.... 

Steve


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

I like your detailed control room. I see some of what I have planned for mine, so not I can see if I do want to do it. Nicely done Chip!


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## gojira61 (May 21, 2008)

*WOW!*

Outstanding control room! Great eye for the details!

Jim


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Just beautiful. I love this kit. Those decals really make it look sharp! Keep us posted.


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## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

Wow, thanks for all the kind words. I have been watching the entire series every night. My son thinks its laughable. Especailly the monster episodes. I am picking up details and stuff I can ad hoc to make my Seaview, MY Seaview. It will be in a huge lighted action diorama. 
Here are some more shots I took a few days ago. 

I used silver decal film from Microscale to cover different panels thoughout.









I lowered the drivers seats, made the hand wheel that opens the control room crash doors, and made new instrument faces above the station. 









On the stairs I used a smaller diameter center support as the kit part is fat, warped and full of voids. Too hard to fix. I also replaced the handrail with rod more to scale. 









Overhead before final details and crew were added.









Mr Morton of coarse! 









The Captain with neck tie and way way shortened arm. 









Completed hatch with PE railing. 









Lounge furniture all Paragraphix awesome photoetch with decals applied in wood and brown.










I will post more as I build.... Milt


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## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

Seat and map detail
















Kit supplied Radio Room back wall with what I guessed as fire extinguishers but who knows. Its not what was there on the real TV sub but what the hell...


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Very impressive added details! It is the small things that make the whole look so much better.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Well done :thumbsup: That control room looks a treat and yes all the little bits just make it sing.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

GForceSS said:


> Heres the control room using the decals from Henry Prentiss of TSDS, Inc.. Great guy who helped me out quite a bit. Thanks Henry!


What can I say? Glad to help, that's for sure. And it looks like you mixed and matched almost every aftermarket addition available and put them to VERY good use! 

She's a beauty! I look forward to seeing more pictures!

--Henry


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## biollante62 (Sep 14, 2009)

Nice build. I'm just starting mine.I have all the photo etch and decals and lights. I want to open up the limber holes,I started already this plastic is very thick,how sir did you thin the interior? with a dremel? I thought of that but so easy to burn through. 
Thanks mark


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Biollante62 - Since you have the photoetch, you can open up the limber hole areas much larger than the holes themselves, then place the etched limber holes over the openings. The photoetch will then provide the proper thickness. (This is outlined on page 4 of the instructions.)

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the filming miniatures had raised limber hole plates which are duplicated in my photoetch set. Not only is using the etch holes easier than thinning from the back, but you get a more accurate model at the same time.


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## Cappy D (Jun 19, 2004)

Your interior details are great. Keep it up!

Cappy D.


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## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

biollante62 said:


> Nice build. I'm just starting mine.I have all the photo etch and decals and lights. I want to open up the limber holes,I started already this plastic is very thick,how sir did you thin the interior? with a dremel? I thought of that but so easy to burn through.
> Thanks mark


Yes I used a Dremel with a wide coarse wheel at medium speed. Then finished it smooth inside with a sanding block. I bowed a piece of grey painted plastic sheet inside to hide the lower interior hull but still see thru to the other side holes. It looks pretty cool. To use the photoetch would be almost as hard I figure because I would have had to fair it all in. Although the real studio model had a piece of metal plate stuck to the outside hull...pretty cheesy IMO. MP


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## biollante62 (Sep 14, 2009)

Did you sand down the control room details before applying the decals? I have used micro sol in the past with fair results, I can't see it working here. thanx


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## biollante62 (Sep 14, 2009)

Thank you. I spent the better part of a week drilling/sanding the limber holes.I started with the dremel and backed off.(my hands shake to much)I sandpapered by hand.I used small files to make it all smooth.I don't see many models here with the limber holes opened up,I did it with my large revell gato class sub,well worth the effort. I will also ad the dark plastic replicating the inner pressure hull,using your pics as a guide. Many thanks.
Did you build with decals in the interior? did you sand down the details before hand? I just can't figure out how to post questions/pics here.I'm new to this thread thing.
Thank you sir  mark


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## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

I sanded down only the heaviest interior detail because I found the decals were wrinkling badly and that even Solvaset would not straighten them out all the way. I found cutting the decals into many smaller squares helped also. Best of luck with your build!


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Beautiful detail !!!! henrys decals really bring it to life ! henrys decals are simply "OUTSTANDING" !!!
Bert


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Man, do not use solvaset on the decs. that's like washing a baby in a car wash. use only the micro scale system. You will not have to remove any detail if you don't "nuke" the decals with too strong a solvent. The TSDS decs fit over everything I've put them on and they snuggle right down as long as you don't melt 'em, even micro -sol if used too many times can melt the decs. if the decal solution is too hot, the decs will wrinkle, you can drip a little water, or brush water on the decs and let them rinse off. If the decal wrinkles it's too soft, it's a tricky thing like paint just before it runs. TSDS decs are tough and can put up with some boo boos, you just need to use a less potent solvent. solvaset if the "final option" in my tool box. it's very potent.








My interior can't begin to compare with yours. But the decs will fit over any detail. 

Steve


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

GForceSS said:


> I sanded down only the heaviest interior detail because I found the decals were wrinkling badly and that even Solvaset would not straighten them out all the way. I found cutting the decals into many smaller squares helped also. Best of luck with your build!


They _are_ pretty thick decals -- however, if you use too much solvaset, they could tend to soften up, thereby causing wrinkles. I'm sorry if you had any trouble with them, although it looks like you worked around any troubles very nicely indeed. If you'd like me to replace them, please let me know and I'll get a new set right out to you. You have a beautiful build going here, and don't want MY decals letting you down!

--Henry


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## biollante62 (Sep 14, 2009)

I need to start posting pics and figuring out how to use this site properly. I did sand down the major "humps" on the interior and layed down the decals.Henry these are a thing of beauty sir. I used only water and kid gloves and they look fantastic.I relize I need to seal them in place gentleman,I'm thinking Testors flat laquer in a mist coat.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

you shouldn't need to seal 'em mine are stuck like glue...even the tiny Flying Sub stripes.

Steve


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## biollante62 (Sep 14, 2009)

My decals were seated pretty good xcept for some raised parts.I hit them with some flat clear and it ate them up. Stay away from Krylon matte finish. Damn!I guess I will start over and paint the details,cash is low to non existent I'm despondent,these TSDS decals are fantastic.Perhaps Testors is less harsh. Just a warning to all mark


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## biollante62 (Sep 14, 2009)

Milt,how did you mask off the dark colored pressure hull during final painting? the pressure hull has to be in place before fitting the hull pieces together,then putty/sanding/priming and paint of the ship. I have added this feature myself,How do I mask the limber hole openings without the hull color covering the dark background?
Thank you sir mark


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## GForceSS (Feb 2, 2009)

biollante62 said:


> Milt,how did you mask off the dark colored pressure hull during final painting? the pressure hull has to be in place before fitting the hull pieces together,then putty/sanding/priming and paint of the ship. I have added this feature myself,How do I mask the limber hole openings without the hull color covering the dark background?
> Thank you sir mark


I didn't mask anything. Your spraying gray into a darker gray pressure hull. You wont see anything when it done.


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