# How to clean a styrene kit prior to painting, post clean-up



## iconixfilms (May 27, 2011)

I'm working on styrene kit that has had me prepping the heck out of the sucker. I.e. endless sanding and puttying to get the darned thing to actually fit properly. I am just about to begin painting, but as I have had my hands all over the kit for weeks, I'm concerned about body oils that have gathered on the pieces. 

I use a small hobby brush to clean away the sanding dust, and a tack cloth, and I plan on using a can of compressed air for giggles (and perfection) on top of that. But I am concerned about the build up of oils that may cause some painting issues. I don't want to submerge the sucker in water for fear of little holes and water getting into my kit... but, does anyone know of a technique (or product) to clean your work prior to the painting stage but post-sanding/clean-up?

Note: I will be brushing by hand w/ vallejo acrylics.


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## USS Atlantis (Feb 23, 2008)

Spray bottle filled with rubbing alcohol - one of those makeup ones that can do a fine mist

And some lint-free cloths - photo shop where they still sell developing/printing supplies

Mist the model and wipe clean with the cloths - the alcohol will remove oils and even fine dust without harming the styrene


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## iconixfilms (May 27, 2011)

Thank you Atlantis. Much appreciated.


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

Also I believe PollyS has a Plastic Prep. Probably available through Squadron. I just use dish washing liquid (desolves grease) and let it air dry for a few days. Supposed to get up to 100 today so shouldn't take long to dry.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I would also recommend once cleaned up you prime it with a spray can primer such as Rustoleum or Krylon gray primer. It makes the plastic much better to paint with your acrylics and also will flag any blemishes you might want to correct before starting with the acrylics.

Bob K.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

icon',

I always wash my models prior to painting - in fact, I give 'em a good scrubbin' before I even start the build, just to get all the mold release agents off the parts so I know I'm working with clean plastic. For both washes, I like Simple Green; it's available in the automotive sections at most department/hardware stores or auto parts shops. I prefer the concentrate, but use the ready made stuff if I have to. The advantage that Simple Green has over other detergents is that it doesn't leave any residues, like skin softeners, behind. There are other greasecutters such as the dish soap btbrush mentioned; just check to make sure that soap is _all_ you're getting.

I have yet to find a truly lint-free cloth, so I let the model air dry (I keep a blow dryer at my workbench when I want to speed things up). Then I use the Poly Prep to remove any last traces of oils. This stuff also removes the static charge that can attract dust particles to the smooth surface of the model. I just brush it on the model and let it dry. From this point forward, I only handle the model while wearing latex gloves.

I could not agree with Mr. Koenn more about priming your model before applying the finish coats.


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## USS Atlantis (Feb 23, 2008)

Mark McGovern said:


> I have yet to find a truly lint-free cloth,


Mark

Photography stores that still cater to film guys who do their own developing/printing should have negative-grade wipes

I still have a stash of my old ones from back when I did it semi-pro - these are what I used to wipe negatives just out of the developing process to semi-dry them - if these wipes weren't truly lint-free, they would have left little "hairs" in the emulsion

They're not cloth, but a cloth-like paper - disposable/recyclable
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And yes, priming the model with a good primer is a must before putting on your color coats


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Thanks, Atlantis. Then again, air is _free_! :dude:


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