# How do you achieve a glass like finish?



## Marko (Jul 11, 2002)

I am building the Eye Gone Wild. The eye with wings, I am going to dry brush. The car, I would like to use a spray can on. Normally, I would use my air brush. But, I am trying to take a short cut. So, how to get that glass like finish? Is more coats better or one light one? Any helpful hints much appreciated!!


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

What paint are you using Marko? I use automotive acrylic lacquer on my car kits- usually Duplicolor. 
After the Duplicolor primer I spray a guidecoat (very thin dust coat of flat black) over the body then wet sand with #600 grit paper. 
I spray about 3 coats of colour then sand with #1000. Another 3 coats, another sanding. Another 3 coats then a wet coat and leave it to dry for at least a week. Then I sand with #1500, buff, then sand with #2000. Then I cut the paint with Brasso. I find it removes the scratches left by the paper. Then I buff with Novus polish. I don't bother with the sanding films. I find the Brasso removes all the marks in the paint.
I've only ever done this with automotive paint and don't think it'll work too well with enamels or Tamiya sprays.
It's a lot of work but I like the results. There's most likely easier ways to get a show quality shine but this method works for me.

Chris.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

Prime, wet-sand, mist coat (paint), let sit for 15 minutes, paint again, wet-sand, final wet coat of paint. Let cure. Clear coat.


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## modelnutz (Sep 21, 2009)

One good tip...when using Lacquers...wait at least 2 weeks ( or more ) till you do your final polishing.
If you rush that step...you will get a polished finish, but , the solvents are still leaving the lacquer and they will dull your polishing job.

Lessons learned from high end guitar finishing from my earlyer days.


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## superduty455 (Jun 21, 2000)

I am ambitious when it comes to primer and paint coats. I almost wet-sand everything, this includes the plastic body so that the primer adheres better. You don't want the primer to be so smooth that the paint can't bite, but with every prep you do on the body the paint finish will look that much better in the end.

If you paint pearls or metallics you'll not want to sand them until you've added a clear coat. That is with exception if you have a giant flaw, then sanding and re-painting the pearl or metallic is necessary. 

Definitely trial and error. Weather has a great deal to do with painting too. Too much humidity and your paint can blush, too dry and it's like sandpaper. 

There are so many different methods for achieving a high gloss finish that everyone finds what works for them. 

I utilize a polishing system. I usually wet-sand all paint and primer with a 4000 grit polish cloth, successive coats are the same way. Once I am happy with all the finishes and move to the next step of final clear coat I will then start at 6000 cloth all the way through 12000. I then use Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0 and then a wax of your choice. Sometimes Novus as well, just depends on the way the finish looks to me.

Chris


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

The important theme here is sand, buff, polish, wax just like a "real car" 'cept it's more finger grease than elbow grease. Award winning finishes do not come straight out of a rattle can/airbrush.


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## Marko (Jul 11, 2002)

Steve224, I am starting to get that picture!! Chris, another great modeler gave me the same advice on the automotive paint. Modelnutz, I did not know that about the solvents staying in that long. Magesblood and Superduyy445, thanks for the methods. I am going to try the great advise you all gave. Will post a pic of the kit when done.


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