# need opinions on small electric sanders



## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

you know those hobby-sized sanders that they sell at places like Micromark? I guess they're small enough to work on scale models with.

I have a hard time sanding with my hands. I don't think it's arthritis or anything. Just they tend to cramp easily. 

Sooo, I was just hoping someone here might have used small hobby-sized electric sanders can give me some buying tips similar to how people suggest a model of airbrush or whatever.

For example; should I get the one with the long stick or the one with the shaped pads? Are there battery operated ones?

See, I just got through filling and sanding a hollow-core door at home thus inspiring this thread/query.

thanks for reading.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Sorry to say, it is very likely arthritis. It sucks major.

I converted an elec. toothbrush with mild success into a sander. Just cut the bristles off and glue sand paper to it.


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## IanWilkinson (Apr 23, 2010)

ive been modeling for years n years and if you intend to keep building - i would recomend spending a bit more money and purchasing a Dremmel tool.
i have in the past purchased cheap tools and the motors either burn out or the locking shafts just snap!. The Dremmel i have is years old and apart from replacing the bushes every 6 months or so - which is very simple! - it is as good as when first purchsed.
In the uk i got mine with tools and extension head for around £40.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

I have a dremel. I prefer a flat sanding surface over a round, cylindrical one. Hard to control too. At least for me. I find that I dig in too easily. 

I still don't get how to do the whole electric toothbrush thing.


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## Dave P (Jan 5, 2005)

http://www.micromark.com/5-PIECE-FLEX-PAD-SET,7367.html

http://www.micromark.com/CORDLESS-SANDER-and-FILER-SET,7652.html

http://www.micromark.com/MICRO-POWER-SANDER,7704.html

The Dremel is good for shaping and grinding, not for sanding.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

those are kind of 'spensive. Have to wait for Father's day or my next birthday to ask for one.


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## halcyon_daze (Jan 6, 2004)

Magesblood said:


> For example; should I get the one with the long stick or the one with the shaped pads?.


I have the one with the shaped pads and it works very well...but it's not good for precise sanding, and the pads seem to wear out pretty fast. It's great for sanding stuff that would be laborious by hand though.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

IMHO using an electric sander on a plastic kit is asking for trouble. I have a Dremel and use it rarely; mostly on resin. Most electric items will melt plastic with the heat generated by sanding/grinding. Im not sure if you can use the electric ones wet either. 

I use sandpaper, sanding sticks, a flex-i-file, etc.


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## halcyon_daze (Jan 6, 2004)

djnick66 said:


> IMHO using an electric sander on a plastic kit is asking for trouble. I have a Dremel and use it rarely; mostly on resin. Most electric items will melt plastic with the heat generated by sanding/grinding. Im not sure if you can use the electric ones wet either.
> 
> I use sandpaper, sanding sticks, a flex-i-file, etc.


Yeah, you have to be careful using one...it will definitely mar the surface if you aren't. The key is to keep it moving, it _will_ melt the plastic if you keep it stationary in one spot.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

How many kits really need an electric sander? I can see if you built a lot of 5' fiberglass ships. But most plastic kits are only a foot long. Big ships are two feet long but have only one simple seam. There aren't that many reallly big sci fi type kits. If you are having trouble sanding something down or your hands hurt, you are using the wrong grit sand paper etc. I see a lot of people try to sand down putty or filler using 800 grit paper... no wonder it takes forever. I have some finger pain and can not hold small parts tightly. Using a twist drill for more than one or two holes is quite painful. On the other hand, I dont have much trouble with sanding.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

I'm at a loss for words. Polite ones anyway.


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## halcyon_daze (Jan 6, 2004)

djnick66 said:


> How many kits really need an electric sander? I can see if you built a lot of 5' fiberglass ships. But most plastic kits are only a foot long. Big ships are two feet long but have only one simple seam. There aren't that many reallly big sci fi type kits. If you are having trouble sanding something down or your hands hurt, you are using the wrong grit sand paper etc. I see a lot of people try to sand down putty or filler using 800 grit paper... no wonder it takes forever. I have some finger pain and can not hold small parts tightly. Using a twist drill for more than one or two holes is quite painful. On the other hand, I dont have much trouble with sanding.


It's merely another tool in the box...it can save time and effort, in other instances it's of little use or inappropriate. It's not a matter of "need" as much as a matter of being a tool that can prove convenient and/or useful in some circumstances. There's a right tool for the job, but sometimes there is a _better_ tool. Why the hell would I want to grind away with a sanding stick when I have a tool that will do the same job 10 times more efficiently?

For instance, if you've ever used superglue to fill a seam or gap you know that it dries very hard and takes a lot of effort to hand-sand it smooth and flush...that micro-sander has saved me a lot of time and effort in such cases (that being just one example). Now, on a curved surface like fuselage halves the sander probably wouldn't be the best choice since it's too easy to leave flat spots...I would find a flex-i-file better for that, or a flexible sanding stick. Again, best tool for the job at hand.

Also, I would point out that this is the_ modeling _forum...not the sci fi forum...so I wouldn't be making assumptions about what subject someone is building as some of us build in more than one genre (like me), and I really don't understand how someone would evaluate the utility of a tool according to a particular subject. To me, modeling is modeling regardless of the subject.

The bottom line is I determine what works best for me, not someone else, and that in addition to relaying my personal experience or that of others I've encountered I frequently add the caveat when I post to threads where people are asking for advice about techniques, tools, etc. that the individual can only try something and see if it works for them or not. By the same token, when I have a question I always appreciate a variety of responses.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

thanks for filling in the words I so utterly lack. (no sarcasm intended - you hit the nail on the head)


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## Raptor (Mar 7, 2010)

Toothbrush sander, one of the best tools I have ever made. Get the $3.00 equate model at Wal-mart then hit the auto body section and get some double sided molding tape and sandpaper ( nothing more course than 400). I used toe nail clippers to take off most of the brush and then shave the rest off with a new exacto blade. Cut a small square of dbl sided tape and then a small square of sandpaper. I make a lot of Monster figure models and I do a lot of filling ( I use bondo glazing putty not the expensive model stuff)
and the Toothbrush sander works great not to much torque or power.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You guys read too much into posts. I was just asking (seriously) if you build many models large enough to warrant the use of an electric sander. I did mention ships and big sci fi models as being some of the larger ones. I can't believe people get torqued over harmless stuff. 

The electric tooth brush idea sounds good and more model friendly.

There was some discussion (I think on Missing Links? or here) that the Micro Mark house brand tools were pirate copies of another name brand.


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## halcyon_daze (Jan 6, 2004)

Raptor said:


> Toothbrush sander, one of the best tools I have ever made. Get the $3.00 equate model at Wal-mart then hit the auto body section and get some double sided molding tape and sandpaper ( nothing more course than 400). I used toe nail clippers to take off most of the brush and then shave the rest off with a new exacto blade. Cut a small square of dbl sided tape and then a small square of sandpaper. I make a lot of Monster figure models and I do a lot of filling ( I use bondo glazing putty not the expensive model stuff)
> and the Toothbrush sander works great not to much torque or power.


I've read lots of examples of people doing this with electric toothbrushes, to good effect. I've been meaning to give it a try myself.

The FSM Tools & Techniques forum is a great place for evaluating this sort of thing...I've gotten all sorts of great tips and info from there, as well as the other FSM forums. I've often thought that this board needs a forum for the specific discussion of modeling techniques (other than just dios and lighting).


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

halcyon_daze said:


> I've often thought that this board needs a forum for the specific discussion of modeling techniques (other than just dios and lighting).


I'm diggin that brother, I thought lighting was an evil thing till I read some of the great post's there, now if the same could be done with paint -putty, glue assembly, etc, etc...


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

does anyone have one of the sander with the shaped sanding heads? Does it work well? Are the sanding heads small enough to fit into tight places?


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## halcyon_daze (Jan 6, 2004)

Magesblood said:


> does anyone have one of the sander with the shaped sanding heads? Does it work well? Are the sanding heads small enough to fit into tight places?


Yes I have one...the square sanding heads are 1/2" square. The sander works well for some things, particularly flat surfaces although there is a semi-cylindrical head that works O.K. for more compound surfaces. However, not so good for tight spaces. The problem is the head oscillates very rapidly from side to side, and using it in tight places can be problematic. 

You have to approach the area with the front side of the sanding head in order to gauge the margin of what you're sanding...from the sides it's hard to control because of the rapid side-to-side oscillation, and you can't really judge where the edge of the sanding head is sanding. Definitely not recommended for areas with raised details you don't want to sand off. As I described previously, it's very good for other things...I've found it especially useful for sanding uneven areas on flat featureless surfaces, like seams that have been filled in with superglue and need to be smooth and flush.

Hope this helps.


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