# OK...need your opinion



## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

I just picked up the 6 lane maxtraxx from bruce. I want to set up a PORTABLE 4' x 16' oval and am torn on whether to make the table hinged in the middle at the track seems or just make two separate sections that have tapered and fixed dowel pins and sockets at the seam between the two sections and bolt them together each time. Has anyone one had any experience with this type of set up? I am concerned about slot and rail alignment, and causing any unnecessary damage to the track itself. I figured when not in use, the two 4' x 8' sections could be stored sandwich style (track to track) with a thin, low amidity material between, and then stored against the wall or from the ceiling. Low profile, sturdy, folding legs are another dilemma for me with this design. Any input?


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Folded in half will make it one big heavy mountain to move, and the possibility of rail damage might be high. I don' know how maxtrack is made, but the thought of rail pressing against rail even when padded would concern me. I would go 2 pieces and save your back, and having the track stacked in the same direction will give a bit more protection. I would set up connecting the rail joints with nice flat 4 prong polarized connectors (1 per 2 lanes) at each joint (plugs under the table) so continuity isn't an issue, and go the dowel pin alignment method. That's just me though..


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Folded in half will make it one big heavy mountain to move, and the possibility of rail damage might be high. I don' know how maxtrack is made, but the thought of rail pressing against rail even when padded would concern me. I would go 2 pieces and save your back, and having the track stacked in the same direction will give a bit more protection. I would set up connecting the rail joints with nice flat 4 prong polarized connectors (1 per 2 lanes) at each joint (plugs under the table) so continuity isn't an issue, and go the dowel pin alignment method. That's just me though..


Yeah, what he said...

But that's just me.


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## Tsooko (Oct 15, 2009)

Years ago I built an "N" scale train layout on a hollow door using those folding legs that you can get at a big box hardware store. They work very well for storing the set against the wall and saving room. The 7' x 3' table is still pretty heavy to move around. If you hinge the two 8' pieces I am pretty sure that moving it will require a crew of elephants, or baby gorillas to move.:freak:

Hope this helps.

Cheers Ted


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## tomhocars (Oct 19, 2005)

Two pieces woul be a lot easier to handle.My Bowman track was shipped in a crate on 5 pieces of plywood with folding table legs.Line the lanes up before you cut the tfrack with dowels and bolts.You can get modular plugs at any auto parts store.


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## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

Thanks for the input so far.

Now, I think the general concensus is to go with 2 separate tables with tapered dowel pins and sockets for alignment. 

The electrical connection part is no problem.

The big question is where do I get these large, tapered dowel pins and sockets from that are going to align the 2 tables? Does anyone have any leads?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*See Choo Choos !*

Check out model railroading. It's all about modular construction and interlocking panels.

I prefer something that works like the gizmo that operates a leafed dining room table... in concept only... but made from 2x2's. A primitive horizontal sliding mortise and tennant joint I guess you'd call it.

Weight and leverage are your enemy so anything you can do to prevent panel from flexing like a book is a good idea. You want the mechanism to be simple, yes... but it must be robust enough to withstand repeated cycles of assembly...otherwise the joint quickly becomes an issue and yer layout useless because it has a mondo speed bump in it.

For larger heavier modules I also used long bolts or ready-rod to pull the modules together. 

Good luck!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

My tables modular,but i used 1"X0.100" wall sq steel tubing for it's frame,1/8" roll pins to line it up,and long 5/16" bolts to bolt the modular sections together.If you can weld,steel's lighter,and usually straighter then wood,and not as prone to warping or wearing out over time,just another option to look at:thumbsup:


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## tomhocars (Oct 19, 2005)

Ypou dont need dowels.Carriage boltsare available in different sizes from home depot.Cut two 2x3's the width of the table bolt them together then put them under the table at the joint.Screw them from the top down.When you unbolt them ,thats where your seam will be.You can get wing nuts for the carriage bolts so you can spin them on and off.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

This idea has worked good for me...this was on a 1x4 frame with dadoed joints. The top sheets were 97" long which is neccessary for this.

What you want to do is create a "tounge" by setting one sheet back 1//4", this puts your seam over a solid piece of wood.










Another trick is to put strips of 2mm craft foam in the frame joint when setting this up. This way, when you tighten the tables together, the pressure 
is applied to the seam before the frame, creating a sort of expansion joint.










When done, pull everything together and in alignment with clamps, then bolt the frames together underneath....I like this kind of hardware....

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001072/Jig-and-Fixture-Knobs-and-Handles.aspx

Done right, this creates a nice solid seam that aligns perfect every time.


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## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

Now that seam joint is ingenius. That looks like the master plan. I just completed making both halves of the table last night. I guess I'll use the router with a guide to make the grooves for the tongue. 

Then I've got to see if home depot makes sturdy enough folding legs for a 4' x 16' table like we're building here.

Looks like this may be getting done faster than I thought thanks to you guys.


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## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

Picked up the table legs at Home Depot after work. 

Getting closer...


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## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

OK...it's coming along, thanks to your advice. The table is done. Now to wiring. I just realized that I will need some multiple pin connectors to connect the wiring between the 2 track sections. Does anyone know of a source of these male/female type plugs?


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## Tsooko (Oct 15, 2009)

Gear Head said:


> OK...it's coming along, thanks to your advice. The table is done. Now to wiring. I just realized that I will need some multiple pin connectors to conectthe wiring between the 2 track sections. Does anyone know of a source of these male/female type plugs?


Let's see, six lanes, two rails, both sides, equals 24 connections. How about one of these? Computer printer cable.
You would have to cut the wire and solder it to the track rails, but it has 24 pins and would be a one time connect.
Cheers Ted


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