# murray 22" throttle free design doesn't crank--help



## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Hi there new to the site and new to engine repair.
Recently this mower decided to stop cranking up. 

I have primed 5 to 10 pushes of the red button and when the ripcord is pulled it runs 2 seconds and shuts down. I have replaced the spark plug, checked the oil, disassembled the gas tank checked the fuel filter and drained it and put in new clean fuel. I cant locate my engine manual and I am not too familiar with engine repair. I did test out cranking it without the air filter attached and pulled back on what I think it the throttle in the collection off springs near the carburetor and when i pull back a bit it sometimes stays cranked longer--2 more seconds maybe.

Any tips?

I thought maybe the timing is off but have no idea how to reset it and a local mower repair place wants $40 per half hour to fix it with a 3 week wait period.

Heres the specs

engine_model_number: 98902-2247-B1
engine_code_number: 02121052
horsepower: 3.65
model_name: Sprint
equipment_name: Murray
equipment_type: Walk Behind Lawnmower

since I am a newbie to the site I cant post links to pics til I've got 2 posts.
I guess pm me and ill send them if you can help


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Did you hit anything before it started acting this way?
It's probably not the timing.
You could have a bad diaphragm in the carburetor, may not be pumping any fuel out of the tank to the main jet. 

When you took the carburetor off of the fuel tank, did you notice if the little fuel bowl in the center had plenty of fuel in it?


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

yeah, there was a dime sized recess of a fuel pool there when I removed the carb. I also did a quick glance to see if the post that the blade is on might be bent--i think its the flywheel key if I understand correctly? Any way it didnt look bent at all and I dont recall any rocks stumps or objects it might have hit. It worked fine two weeks prior.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

pics


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## junebug1701 (Jun 15, 2009)

Yep, that's a typical Murray, my backup mower is just like it. Go to Lowes and get this diaphragm/gasket kit for less than 3 bucks. Worked for me:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_219691-85794-5083D_0_?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=3172305


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

thanks, did yours have the same issue with the 2sec fire-up and stop?


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## junebug1701 (Jun 15, 2009)

murraybummer said:


> thanks, did yours have the same issue with the 2sec fire-up and stop?


No, mine would run for 10 minutes
or so and the primer bulb would get
sucked in. A bad diaphragm can 
produce lots of different symptoms.


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## junebug1701 (Jun 15, 2009)

Oh, and also clean the screen at the end of the fuel pickup tube.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Is there a best way to clean the filter screen? 
When I had pulled the carburetor the screen externally didnt have any crud on it, but I did use some deep creep carb cleaner and sprayed it anyway.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Ok, I bought the carb kit at lowes and replaced the diaphragm and gasket plus the screen tube-like thing and the spring. Still it wont hold a crank. It seems to surge a bit before stalling, like a high low high low and then stop. Could it be that fuel is not getting in the carb? I checked the screen at the base of the fuel pick up tube and I dont see any blockage or gunk.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You may need to clean out the main jet. Maybe geogrubb will post his pictures on this for the carburetor you have. I know he as posted them before, but I can't find the thread.


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

I sent Geogrubb a PM, would the photos have the main jet identified..im guessing its the metal pinhole in the base of the carburetor. Ive sprayed gummout into it and still nothing.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

It's underneath the large filter screen, it can be removed for cleaning. Geo posted some pretty good pictures detailing the procedure once (at least I think it was his post).


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

The only screen I see is a tube like screen, part # 393 in the diagram. I looked up the carb and I think the part # I would need for my mower is 498809 which on B&S's site is $26. If there isnt much of a chance that it could be anything else I may just order a new one.


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## junebug1701 (Jun 15, 2009)

Jack's Small Engines has PN# 498809 listed for $23.40:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/se...50761418589:c24nnqwh7co&cof=FORID:11&q=498809


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## junebug1701 (Jun 15, 2009)

Just to add to the confusion, the carb I ordered last year for my Murray was B&S part number 795477, but it looks identical to the one in your pictures. My engine is a 10A902-2180-02111851 from 2002, and it's labeled as a 4.0 HP.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Ok I will put in my $.02

Briggs Carb
You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go;
Here we go;
Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the “O” ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble), now with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, check the “O” ring on the main jet for damage, if it is damaged it must be replaced, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem(not necessary if the fuel tank was clean). Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo

Pics to follow in 2 min.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Here are the pics for the main jet. Have a good one. Geo









Next:








Next:









This is the best I can do. Have a good one. Geo


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## junebug1701 (Jun 15, 2009)

Excellent pictures, Geo!!


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

many many thanks fellas...Ill giver a go in the am.
have a happy 4th!


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

I followed Geogrubb's cleaning instructions and its running great

As I was cleaning with the brake parts cleaner I saw what I thought was a gasket ring underneath the throttle head (part 97 in the diagram) but it turned out to be a ring of **** and dried up grass clippings I guess that washed away. I wonder now if that was most of the issue in that it was restricted in movement due to gunk buildup?

Anyways thanks for the help.

I have another Briggs and Stratton engine thats got me puzzled on my tiller. 
Here is a link to the post. Hopefully this mystery cant be solved as well.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=296798


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I knew I wasn't dreaming and geo had the pictures. Thanks Geo....


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Well, 6 years later and its acting up again. It was having trouble priming so I bought a new bulb and replaced it thinking that it was the reason. Even with priming it doesnt want to turn over. This time I replaced the diaphragm and popped out that main jet again and sprayed it and the screen with carb cleaner. Still not even starting for a second or two, just doesn't turn over. I also took out the spark plug to see if it was cruddy but it looks good. What should I try next?


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## murraybummer (Jun 29, 2010)

Also, I did try today to trouble shoot and see if its getting spark. I removed the coil and tested as this video recommended. Mine was showing 2.7 ohms so it seemed ok ifthe video is right.





Then I replaced the coil and used this gap setting video.





Then I also replaced the plug and held it with some long handled pliers with rubber grips and held down the little bar at the top of the mower handle that turn it on/off while trying to start it. I didnt see any spark but my finger was just touching the metal of the pliers and gave me a little zap. Nothing major just a tingle. So I dont know if Im supposed to visually see a spark or not but it doesnt when trying to crank it. My plug connector has never had a boot on it, it just clamps on to the end of the plug.

I tightened up the plug and tried starting it up and it doesn't even sputter.
What should I try next in trouble shooting you think?


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