# breaking in a new motor



## rpmdj1 (Sep 23, 2011)

Hi All
sorry im asking another question but,I bought a new in the box AW dodge viper I have heard about breaking in the motor correctly but cant seem to find a link or info on the subject can anyone help?
thanks
Russ


----------



## rpmdj1 (Sep 23, 2011)

*sorry*

sorry I just google searched and got a million hits but if you still want to give some advice please do
Russ


----------



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Russ, no apologies necessary. This is the place to ask questions.

Basic Motor/Car Break-In:

Best to apply some good comm drops (Aero-car's Conducta-Lube) to the motor brushes and comm plate area first. Just a drop in each motor brush hole will do. Since the car is brand new, you may want to break-in the gears as well. Apply a very small dab of polishing compound or toothpaste (something with a fine grit like plain Colgate) on the top-side drive gears. Place the car on the track with the rear wheels elevated and run it at a low fixed speed for about 5-6 minutes. Afterwards, remove the top gear assembly and remove excess polishing compound from the gears with a small scrub brush. Reassemble and apply a small dab of gear lube (Aero Car's Super Speed Gear Lube) to the gears. You should be ready to go. Hope this helps.


----------



## rpmdj1 (Sep 23, 2011)

*thank you*

thank you,


----------



## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Sir Slots, 
Is the comm drop applied directly to the comm & each brush??


----------



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Hello Dom,

Yes. This will provide each surface with a lubristic, conductive coating that will last for a good while. The comm drops also provide lube to the arm pivot hole between the brushes. A good time to apply is at new car break-in, or immediately after a clean-up to the comm and brushes on older cars.


----------



## slotking (May 27, 2008)

I have never spent a any real time breaking in brushes!
Once I really started to use my DYNO, I found I only 1 or 2 minutes on must cars except those with endbells

so I made an arm that I replace the come with fines sandpaper
a few seconds with a dremel and done!


----------



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

I like to break-in the comm & brushes with Conducta-Lube. Works for either endbell style or pancake. It preps & protects the surfaces by reducing the friction. Better than doing it dry. Kinda like breaking-in a cam and lifters without the abrasives. LOL!!


----------



## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

Sir Slotsalot said:


> Kinda like breaking-in a cam and lifters without the abrasives. LOL!!


Roller or flat tappet?


----------



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Crane rollers and a hi-lift cam. Don't forget to install a new timing chain and gears. Better yet, go all gears. I wonder if the kids know what we're talking about. Now days you just put a chip in the module to change the performance. LOL!!


----------



## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

Chain? Gears? Belt drive! Easier to advance the cam! Back on the subject, after I break in the gears on my T-Jets I dunk them in a glass of 70% isopropol alcohol and run them for a few minutes to clean them out, let'em dry off and lube 'em up like Khim said. I know a lot of the 1/32 and 1/24 guys take the motors and dunk them in water and break them in that way but that seem like it would tarnish the plating. (Take the tires and wheels off before you try this, it'll ruin them)


----------



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Darn! Forgot about belt drive. Glad you're on top of things Tom. I've been out of the speed biz too long. Not to mention old age, memory loss, etc. LOL!


----------



## racer8nut (Mar 25, 2010)

I take the whole car apart and take a piece of 1500 grit paper on a flat surface and sand the brushes in a figure 8 motion. Then, I take a piece of plain copy paper and repeat the motion. I check the comm springs to make they are the smae height. If one is taller then strech the short one to match. I also check the tabs on the bottom of the car to make sure they are flat. Also, I polish the comm and put the whole thing back together the same way it came apart and lube in the proper points. Finally I go for the dyno and test and tweek to the most out the car as possible.


----------



## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

look at some of tips at the end for break in

http://bat-jet.com/webspot/fraycar06.html


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

TGM2054 said:


> Chain? Gears? Belt drive! Easier to advance the cam! Back on the subject, after I break in the gears on my T-Jets I dunk them in a glass of 70% isopropol alcohol and run them for a few minutes to clean them out, let'em dry off and lube 'em up like Khim said. I know a lot of the 1/32 and 1/24 guys take the motors and dunk them in water and break them in that way but that seem like it would tarnish the plating. (Take the tires and wheels off before you try this, it'll ruin them)


ummm.. Isn't Isopropol alcohol kinda flammable?? Yikes!!


----------



## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

Yeah it's kinda flamable, not as much as 90% or 100%. Before I even tried this I put some in an ashtray. Threw a match in and it went out, tried it again lit for a quick second and went out again. It's not some thing I would try with higher concentration, your just asking for touble then.


----------

