# Building and lighting Robby the Robot with VoodooFx



## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I'm building Robby the Robot simultaneus with the Martian War Machine. Both of these builds feature lighting kits designed by Randy Neubert of VoodooFx. These kits are really addicting once you start using them. For some reason they intimidate people, although they really aren't too complex to work with once you do the first one. My first was on the big-scale Seaview, whcih had LOTS of wiring! Believe me, if I can do, so can anyone else! This kit has a lot of the work done for you, the resistors are already soldered on the board, it's just a matter of soldering in your battery connecting, and then (4) lines to your LED's. There will be a blue light for the chest, and there is three white lights to do the head and chest areas as well. The blue will "speak", it has randon flickering, and the whites stay lit solid. All you need is a very basic soldering iron and electrical solder. This IS NOT rocket science guys! This is what is in the basic kit:









I'm my own worst enemy, always making things harder than they should be, and I've already complicated things more by hacking on the basic kit! LOL!! The first thing I did was to drill thru the holes in the chest plate that hold the voice tubes, which are molded in clear, in place. I'm hoping the residual light will pass thru them. I think it will.
















There is a large molded in "light" on each side of the board, which I don't like the look of. I ended up carefully grinding them off with my moto-tool. 








I then cut the tops off of two large round LED's, and then ground one side flat so it would fit in place of the removed bulbs. I again drilled clean-thru the back plate, and I will light them from the back if all works well. I'll be using fibre-optics for the first time on this build, so this is a learning experience for me as well! 








I want to run white light up to the top of the head, so I very carefully drilled thru the gyro base and main gyro pieces with a micro-sized bit. You have to go at really low speed, and start with an undersized bit and work your way up. 








After drilling thru, I tested running some larger fibre-optics up inside of it. If this doesn't produce enough light, I'll backlight it instead.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

The small board that runs everything fits perfectly inside the Robby body. It would easily fit inside the Lost in Space Robot or any other one. This kit is designed to be a "Universal Robot lighting kit". Randy can supply whatever color LED's you need for your application.
















I went on this morning and wired up the power to the board. I just left all the wires long, I'll cut the proper lengths once I have everything figured out. 








I test lit the blue "speaking" LED to see how it works. Pretty cool stuff! It works like a charm! It cycles thru with random blinking effects to simulate speech. More to come later as this progresses, and I'll be posting this in both the Sci-Fi section and lighting each time.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

This is very interesting. I've often wondered about this lighting kit as I have a Robby sitting in a box right now waiting for my attention. Please continue posting on your progress.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Here's a link to a one minute light test video:
[ame=http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l35/Finktim/Robby%20the%20Robot/?action=view&current=Lighttest1001.flv]







[/ame]


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for the pics and vid. I just finished my Robbie, using the all in one light kit from Mecha Labs. The unit is simple but expensive and drops in easily. I had the option to run the voice lights and red head light independently, but got lazy. I fixed it so I can come back and improve it later. Actually, I thought it had a pre-programmed blinker inside, but it is just steady. I have a couple VooDoo light products but I AM scared to death of using them. You have given me new hope! 
Hey, I wonder how hard it would be to use Forbidden Planet sound grabs and sync them to your Robbie voice light? I seem to remember having a weird light in my bedroom, as a teenager, that reacted to sound and voice/music. Probably bought at Spencer Gifts back in the day. It's hard to justify the aftermarket lighting cost when the lights cost more than the model, itself!! Can't wait to see the finished build!!


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I'll repeat what I posted on another board that this build is on. One of the members mentioned cost being a factor for not using the light kits available. My reply was:

"Well, I think you have to look at it in a different perspective. I attack my models and my artwork with the idea that anything worth doing, is worth doing right, and to your very best ability. As I have said before, I don't build that many models each year any more, but I try to make what I do build really stand out. The electronics is new for me too, and I find it adds a whole new dimension to model building." I'm no "museum quality" builder in my own opinion, but this is how I attack most of my builds these days. Food for thought. 

Another good perspective would be, the cost of most of the light kits is about the same as a few six packs of really good beer or a nice bottle of wine! LOL! Does that help?!! 

Ok, next step......I boxed out the area behind the clear panel with plastruct sheet, and made a fitting for the LED out of plastruct tubing. I made a paper template first, then used it to form the wall. 








Everything fits neat and clean. It will all be painted black, then the back wall and floor will get covered with chrome Bare Metal Foil to give it some reflectivity.
















The light really spreads out nicely with it all boxed out. I'm pleased with the results so far.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

BEAUTIFUL work. i cant wait to see him finished.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

My next LED to place is for the lower chest lighting. There are two rotating gyro doohickeys on the chest plate, both illuminated.
The first thing I did was to drill a series of holes surrounding the mounting hole to backlight the part. 








Then I used a really fine micro-bit to drill thru the part itself in the proper areas.








If it works the way I think it will, the part(s) will be backlit once the LED is mounted behind it.








Using some plastic tubing, which I cut lengthwise in half, I'm making a mount for the LED. I capped the ends with some pieces of scrap sheet plastic. (this is why you save all those small pieces!) I then drilled a hole the proper size to accomodate the LED.








I left the inside white, but I'll paint the back of all of this part black to block out any residual light from the LED.








In order to mount the chest panel, you'll have to grind away some of the back wall so the modified part will fit.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Back to the circuit board, time to solder some short wires to it and the LED. Notice how the board is very clearly marked positive/negative (+/-). Tin your wire a bit, push it thru, drop just a tiny bit of solder on the backside, and your done. 








Quick and easy. It should look like this:








I turned on the switch, and it works! Easy! It will get a bit more complex for the next step, at least for me, because I'll be using some fibre-optics material to try and run clear light up to the main gyro in the dome headpiece. Even more difficult, I'm going to try and drill out the (4) weapons sensors which have a blue light in them. I'll have to try and run some very fine optics line up thru them, if I don't kill them drilling them out! It's getting late, will try to get to it tomorrow! Until then.......


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Update 7-29*

OK, I couldn't sleep last night, so I did a bit more work on this guy. I was kind of anxious to see what I could do with the fibre-optics anyway, so this is what I came up with. I needed to run some white light to the back of the red lenses I made for the faceplate, so I drilled two 1mm holes in the top of the fixture I had made for the lower body lighting, and inserted a 1mm diam. strand in each and ran it up to the head. 








I kicked on the lights, and it worked! Woohoo! So, next I had to make a fitting to accept the strands on the upper faceplate. I cut a short piece of aluminum tube, and mounted it on the back of each side of the faceplate. 








The strand fit perfectly inside, and can be cut to length once it's all ready to be installed.








With the faceplate in place, I checked the lighting again and it works just fine. I held one of the red covers over the end of the strand it it gives off a nice dull red glow, which is good, because on the 1:1 Robby they aren't super bright either.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Tim,
are you using epoxy to attach the aluminum tubes, or what? It's an elegant solution


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

That is looking insanely cool! Thanks for taking the time to post all the pics and video - One of these days I will give it a try (Lighting a kit, that is :thumbsup: ).


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

i have one of the masudeya 16 inch versions, and i am definatly watching what you are doing so my robby can have himself an upgrade!


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I use Zap-a-Gap and Kicker on everything because I'm an impatient SOB! 
Plus, it hardens like a rock, and sands out the same way for a sturdy lifetime finish. Been using it for years. I will occasionally fine-out with a light coat of putty.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Update 7/31*

I was determined to light the "weapons neutralizers" on the sides of Robby's head. It took some time and patience, and here's what I got so far...

The holes that hold the spiral tips have to be drilled deeper, and then you have to drill from the backside thru to that hole. I ran my Dremel at a fairly low speed, and kept making sure the bit was clean of residual plastic. If the plastic builds up on the bit, it just destroys the hole, so you have to keep it clean. This part being transparent actually was a big help in drilling it out. 
It worked, and I managed to get the optics strand thru the holes with little problems!








After some careful masking, I sprayed the part with Tamiya Light Gunmetal. The "flippers" are supposed to be clear. I hate these parts being in two pieces, the seam sucks, but most of it's hidden anyways.








I stripped all of the chrome off the parts with Castrol Super Clean, and they will all be done in Tamiya Gloss Aluminum.








I removed the pins off both end of the weapons sensors, and drilled clean thru them. I then used a concave bit to hollow out the ends.








I did a bit of a mock-up with the parts, and rigged up the fibre to the blue chest light...








Check it out. It works!!!








Look at the light traveling thru the fibre! The camera caught what the naked eye can't see! Kool huh?!


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

It looks great Tim!!:thumbsup::thumbsup: 

I've left mine in the box cause I'v been unsure about what to do with him...straight OOB or sparked up? But watching your WIP here has me thinking and I do have a heap of blinking leds  I also like the idea of the chrome removal and repaint too, hope you don't mind if I pinch the idea 

Can't wait to see him finished :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Update 8/3*

OK, more fibre optics and another manifold to carry the light there, and this guy is just about all wrapped up. I had drilled out the main gyro in his head for fibre optics as well, but it just didn't carry enough light, so I ended up drilling a small hole right behind it and running a 1.8 mm LED with a tiny apperture to really light it up. You really won't see it, but it will certainly throw a lot more light on the subject!
















I buttoned up the wiring harness, it's all ready to be installed. 
















And now comes the crummy part. Filling, sanding, and smoothing all of the seams in the body parts! Aaargh! More to come later!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

My skills are skimpy, but I managed to make the torso seam just about gone with putty and sanding. Not as much luck with the legs, though. I'll be following this build. I can't wait to see the finished product. Seems like all your stuff is museum quality! And I LOVE the way VooDoo FX products make builds come to life.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Update August 12*

I've made some progress on Robby since my last post. 

I spent a lot of time filling, sanding, and smoothing the body components. The seams are deplorable on this kit. I used Zap-a-Gap for the most part, and ended up feathering the top with some Squadron putty. It all came out pretty well, but it isn't absolutely perfect by any means. I was most disappointed with the head. There are some huge gaps in several pieces, some of which are impossible to hide. I guess I'll do it a bit differenty if I build another one in the future, it's all a learning experience. 








Here, you can see the side of the body and arms. The leg seams weren't too bad to fill, but the arms just didn't fit together right at all, and there was a huge ledge to be ground and filled. I spent quite a few hours doing this. I painted it all with Tamiya Dark Gunmetal, but it's probably a shade too light. He looks almost black in many photos, but he isn't. If you watch the movie, he is a gunmetal grey. 








Time to start putting it all inside! The board is in place, and the LED's have to be glued, then covered over the back and sealed in place with black RTV silicone. It takes 24 hrs. for this stuff to cure completely, so it slows down progress.








I continually test light to make sure everything is functioning properly, BEFORE it's all sealed up!








It woiks!








The fiber optics strands are run thru the headpiece, and cut to fit into the LED manifold below.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Update August 12*









The strands are left long until the weapons analizer fittings are in place. In these phto's, you can clearly see the horrendous fit of these head pieces. Some of it will be hidden as all the dress parts are added, but some of it won't. This type off ill fit really bothers me. "Museum quality" it ain't! 








The two last LED's are set in place in the head.








Things are starting to get a bit tight with everything going in, but it all fit neat and proper.








More light testing. I didn't use a ton of glue when I put these upper head parts on, in case I ever have to go back inside. (GOD FORBID!) 








I did this back wall in chrome Bare Metal Foil for more reflectivity before gluing the headpiece down.








And now it all goes in place! It's time to start adding all the "doo-dads" on the outside now.








I went a bit overboard with all the fiber optics I guess. The basic VoodooFx light kit will yield some great results, I just wanted to take it a step further to see if it could be done!
More photo's to come as I wind down this project!


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Updated August 17*

I finished installing the head. All of the fiber optics and LED's are in place and functioning beautifully!


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## mikephys (Mar 16, 2005)

Wow Tim! Beautiful. Your hard work has really paid off. Robby is certainly a favorite of mine. It's great to seem him lit up!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for the step by step. Really top notch. If you get a chance, try to post more pics. I love how you were able to make the seams disappear. Magic. My family likes mine a lot. My son loves to sneak and turn the light on.


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## bccanfield (Nov 17, 2002)

Where did you get the magnetic hold-down jig ? That looks like a very useful tool to hold parts and componants in place while you work on them.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Tim,

That's looking super! Makes me want to revisit the one I've got half-completed down in the basement.



bccanfield said:


> Where did you get the magnetic hold-down jig ? That looks like a very useful tool to hold parts and componants in place while you work on them.


http://www.micromark.com/MAGNETIC-GLUING-JIG-10-1and4-SQUARE,7038.html


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