# LIS - Space Pod rotating core



## Scorpitat (Oct 7, 2004)

Anyone planning on making a fusion core light set for the pod? I'd love to light mine, but I'm not exactly "ohm" friendly!

I wish someone made a reasonably price fusion core for the pod, and for the old Polar Lights Jupiter 2 kits. Those 70 or 80 dollar kits seem a bit much to me.

Oh well, we'll see what happens on the light market.

Sincerely,
Scorp

"Boldly GO!" :woohoo: :woohoo:


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

VoodooFX is not only planning one, but should have one available in the next 2 - 4 weeks. It will also support 2 leds for either interior lighting or for the lights above the viewport.


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## fxshop (May 19, 2004)

Scorpitat said:


> Anyone planning on making a fusion core light set for the pod? I'd love to light mine, but I'm not exactly "ohm" friendly!
> 
> I wish someone made a reasonably price fusion core for the pod, and for the old Polar Lights Jupiter 2 kits. Those 70 or 80 dollar kits seem a bit much to me.
> 
> ...


 JWRJR is right, we are waiting for test boards. We must test run the unit before any kind of release. Please call us if you have any questions about the new pod core.

Thanks
Randy Neubert
VoodooFX
650-568-3400


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I remember really teeny LED's that were used in watches etc in the late 70's (before you were born..I know...) and I wonder if similar ones are available now, and how teeny CAN YOU make a fusion core.....


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Y3a said:


> I remember really teeny LED's that were used in watches etc in the late 70's (before you were born..I know...) and I wonder if similar ones are available now, and how teeny CAN YOU make a fusion core.....


I was wondering if that light panel stuff might be used, somehow.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

An old-tech idea: using pager motors- either to spin a light wheel, or alternate contacts for fixed lights. I've got one of those motors in an old toothbrush, that needs a new purpose...


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

The VoodooFX core has no moving parts. Just 8 leds programmed to simulate rotation. The kit is just too small to use more leds without resorting to surface-mounted parts.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Toothbrush motor follow-up: I was surprised at how easily the whole mechanism came out. It actually had a AAA battery inside! I was expecting a small button battery or two. The motor can(sans output shaft) is about 1/2" long X 5/32" dia. The weight is held on with a single shallow punch-crimp; should be easy to drill out...


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

Will the circuit support a couple extra LEDs?
I'd love to light the control panels plus a couple of the lights on the outside as well.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Yeah same here.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

toyroy said:


> Toothbrush motor follow-up: ...The motor can(sans output shaft) is about 1/2" long X 5/32" dia. The weight is held on with a single shallow punch-crimp; should be easy to drill out...


I used a Dremel cut-off wheel instead, and indeed, the weight came off easily. The shaft is 1/8" long X 1/32" dia.

I put a AA battery to the motor, and it spins _very_ fast, but also quietly. It looks promising. If I put something together that works, I'll let you know.

(BTW, these pager motors can be bought for $1-$2 online.)


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

The VoodooFX circuit has resistors for 2 leds in addition to the fusion core.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Toyroy .... would this motor be small enough to fit on the ceiling of the Pod (out of site) to be used to spin the radar antenna on top? Also how do you slow the rotation?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

you might try using a lower voltage battery to slow it down.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> ...would this motor be small enough to fit on the ceiling of the Pod (out of site) to be used to spin the radar antenna on top? Also how do you slow the rotation?


I would guess you could. I don't have the pod, and won't be getting one, so I don't know what space you have. I gave the dimensions of my motor above; they're probably typical for pager vibrator motors. 

As for slowing them down, the voltage can be reduced by placing lights or LEDs in series with the motor(that's what I'd do) or using a voltage regulator. The latter will produce heat, though. Robotics suppliers have gears for these motors, as another option.

One thing: _don't_ overload these motors. They can't dissipate heat well, and can burn out.


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

That's what I thought might happen with these little motors. Esp. if you try to slow them down. I'm guessing they are designed to run for a couple seconds at a time. They might be better for spinning propellors than a radar dish. Without a set of reduction gears they would go faster than an egg beater! I got some teeny motors from those little pocket RC cars from Toys R Us, but they do get hot real fast.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Unfortunately you can see the ceiling of the pod (or lack thereof). You need to sheet over the kit interior so you won't see a very nasty seam there. The ceiling is visible through the main windows and the large rear door.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Ignatz said:


> ...I'm guessing they are designed to run for a couple seconds at a time...


No, I take more than a couple seconds to brush my teeth. They should work fine with a tiny load like an antenna, it's just a matter of getting the voltage just right.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

or a teeny reduction gearbox.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I am purchasing a 7mm pager motor with weight removed to try and experiment on getting the antenna to rotate on the Pod model. I figure the motor, no bigger than a penny, will be small enough to conceal in the model. My question is that this motor operates on 1.3 volts. Since the spin will be too fast (designed to create the vibration in a pager/cell phone with the weight on), what resistance should I use to help slow down the rotation? I don't have much electronics experience so assume I should be able to put the right resistor between the power source to the motor. However, I wouldn't even begin to fathom what I should start with. Anyone got some advice?


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

This is where I go to work out the resistors I need for my leds. :thumbsup: It might woork for your little motor. But be carefull about changing the voltage/currant into electric motors, sometime they don't take changes well and can burn out. I've seen it happen many times with electric tools I sell when people don't use the correct size/length extension leads.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

Hope it helps.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

I don't have much circuit experience either, but you might use a small potentiometer(variable resistor.)


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Another thought is to mount an old music box style regulator fan on the motor shaft, and drive the antenna via sympathetic motion.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

I can't stream the vids from the link. So I have a question about the large white lights either side of the main control panel. Do these flash on and off or are they always on and which lights would generaly blink on the main panels?

I've done my reactor core lights and now I want to work on some interior lights... with what room there is. So I figure the control panel is the best for lighting inside.

Cheers


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You shoud at least remove those big lights on the sides of the main console and replace them with LEDs even if you don't light them up. The kit lights are very crude. Being molded to the sloping console, they are a mis-shapen. It's difficult to paint the metal bands around the base also, because of this. I did not fix this for my first model, but on a subsequent build with lights I would replace them with clear parts or LEDs.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

AJ-1701 said:


> This is where I go to work out the resistors I need for my leds. :thumbsup: It might woork for your little motor. But be carefull about changing the voltage/currant into electric motors, sometime they don't take changes well and can burn out. I've seen it happen many times with electric tools I sell when people don't use the correct size/length extension leads.
> 
> http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
> 
> Hope it helps.


This is why I wish I learned more about electronics  What I don't understand is why you would burn out the motor if you increase resistance. I bought two of the motors to try and experiment with one. Hopefully I can get it to work as I would relaly like this effect.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> ...What I don't understand is why you would burn out the motor if you increase resistance...


Depending on your circuit, increasing a resistance may send too much power to the motor. If you post your proposed circuit, someone knowledgeable here can help.


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## David Lanteigne (Apr 26, 2002)

Another possibility is "t-shirt lights." Go to a Hobby Lobby or some similar place, in the aisle devoted to customizing t-shirts, you might find these lights. A matchbox sized plastic box with circuit card and button battery is prewired to LED's that are meant to provide twinkling patterns on t-shirts. Arranged properly, the lights would simulate a chasing pattern.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

One option I've looked at is putting in a false ceiling sheet in my pod when I start on the inside to help conceil any wires but it would still only be about 6 to 8mm deep. The other option I have is use some plasticard to conciel the small leds I'm using for the front and rear spots and run the wires between the innner and outer walls. 

So with the motor and or reduction gearing to turn the radar/scanner dish so how much head room is going to be needed for a false ceiling to conceil this stuff??


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If you lower the ceiling too much you interfere with the big beams on the side walls. Since the rear beams are cast onto the back wall, fixing that will be a pain.


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## fokkerpilot (Jul 22, 2002)

Both http://www.fuzznoggincreations.com/store3.htm and http://www.strangestuffstudio.com/ carry a Fusion Core Effect by Space Circuits that fits the Moebius Space Pod. Developed and professionally engineered by a NASA Electrical Engineer, this circuit contains 24 LEDs that illuminate all 24 little core windows for a truly realistic effect. Circuit operation is initiated via a magnetic switch allowing the effect ramp up from idle to full rotation, and with another wave of the supplied magnet, the effect will reduce the rotation rate to idle and then shut down. Video may be seen on both of the above links. Effect runs on 6 - 12 volt power supply.


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## PatFloyd (Feb 22, 2004)

jwrjr said:


> The VoodooFX core has no moving parts. Just 8 leds programmed to simulate rotation. The kit is just too small to use more leds without resorting to surface-mounted parts.


I think there is a circuit available already (I saw it on this forum) that has 24 LEDs and it's not surface mount.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

yup, thats the one I'm using.


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## mercs32118 (Sep 18, 2003)

*Space Circuits Rules, No Ifs Or Buts......*



Lou Dalmaso said:


> yup, thats the one I'm using.



It's the Space Circuit version I sell and use in my builds. I've use voodoo's, or is it Jwr's, who knows? But there isn't a device out there that is as reliable, versatile, and just plain incredible as this one.

I've tried them all over the years, flexible chaser strands I had fabricated, all sorts of gizmo's, and modules, converted for the effect, nothing like this little marvel. It's the same for the J2 circuits that Space Circuits produces, just a miniature version of the same unit.

I've sold a bunch of these POD lighting circuits in the last few months, I have received nothing but rave reviews on them, and many buyers, have returned to buy them again, for other applications as well.


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

Take this argument elsewhere.
Thank you PM Mod


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## GLENN BUCKNER (Nov 4, 2006)

Please take your complaints regarding lighting products elsewhere.


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## mercs32118 (Sep 18, 2003)

This argument does not belong on this forum - please take it elsewhere


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## fokkerpilot (Jul 22, 2002)

There's no delusional statements being made. But our of respect for the Sponsor of this thread (Moebius), I go no further in the tit for tat - I leave that for the "other board with it's coliseum". I'll be more than happy to post Moebius' fine kits here with illumination from Space Circuits.


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

Please take your discussions else where. This is the Moebius Models forum not a good place for these kinds of arguments.


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## fokkerpilot (Jul 22, 2002)

Please take this discussion elsewhere


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I've been reading this thread with more than a little interest.

I gotta step in here cuz I think y'all are talkin' about _me_. 

I have a lot of respect for all of the parties involved, cuz I have a hard enough time wiring a switch 

Nobody but me made the decision to remove the link to Jack's circuit or the pics. Nobody. I was never pressured beyond my own sence of fair play

It was pointed out to me by a third party that I had slighted a paying sponsor by including the link. and this was at least a couple of days after I did it. I honestly hadn't even connected the dots that Randy was the sponsor of the lighting section. So, (cuz I thought it was in bad taste) I removed one pic and video and link. but not the name of the circuit (its still there)

I'm happy to sing the praises of Jack's board here cuz it's Moebius' "house" and this is a great add on for one of their products.

just wanted to clear the air before it got any smoggier

I now return you to your regularly scheduled thread

Lou


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## fokkerpilot (Jul 22, 2002)

Thank you Lou.

Again, those who wish to continue in with this issue know where to post it on RI. I respect the 'House of Mobeius" and Hanks site; hereby refraining from any further discussions on the above issues.


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

Gentlemen!
I have no interest in which circuit board is best.
I know several of you and consider you each to be a friend I have no axe to grind here.
If you all choose to fight among yourselves I cannot prevent that!
*HOWEVER *if you want to go after one another please do it somewhere else!

I have edited a bunch of posts just now and have tried to do so in an even handed manner...

Please try to get along with one another (or at least try to tolerate one another) while you are visiting this forum.

Thank you.
Dave
PM Moderator


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

The matter is closed as far as I am concerned.


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## fokkerpilot (Jul 22, 2002)

No problem Dave and thanks for keeping things on the level. I will _tolerate_ those individuals involved while visiting.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I just have to say, having done business with both parties involved, I've never had a problem with either. In each instance the item ordered functioned as advertised, and the customer service was, in both cases, terrific.

Maybe I'm wrong, but there would seem to be room for more than one purveyor of aftermarket light kits in this hobby.


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## jwrjr (Oct 31, 2003)

If there are enough people lighting models to support more than one seller, the modeler profits from having more to choose from.


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