# question on re-paint



## scoobe dog (Jul 17, 2010)

I'm working on a couple late 70's early 80's chevy trucks. One has terrible bruch paint all over it and the other one has water slide decals all over it. 

So, my question is.....how do I get all of that paint and decal's off of them so I can re- paint them?


----------



## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Castrol Super Clean,in the purple jug.dunk overnight.


----------



## RallyJack (Jul 10, 2009)

I use Polly S "EASY-LIFT-OFF", it will not attack the styrene underneath as long as you follow directions on the bottle (can).


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

falcondesigns said:


> Castrol Super Clean,in the purple jug.dunk overnight.


+1. It will remove old paint, chrome, and destroy the decals, but it won't harm the styrene.

You can find it in the automotive section at Wal-Mart, but it's called Purple Power there (rumor has it they changed the name). Pour it into a plastic container with a lid (take the usual safety precautions--it _is_ a caustic chemical that can cause skin burns), completely immerse the parts, put the lid on the container, and let the parts soak overnight. The next morning, take the parts out (still using safety precautions), rinse them with warm water (you can use an old toothbrush to scrub them if necessary), and let them dry. Afterwards, you can pour the remaining Purple Power back into the jug.


----------



## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

Scoobe dog I've got a build going now that needs the paint removed also and this is what I've found out. You probably won't find Castrol Super Clean, they sold the product to Super Clean LLC. You can buy Super Clean which is the same product Castrol sold, check the label %'s (purple jug) at Wal Mart. Purple Power, also at Wal Mart is very close to Super Clean except has less butoxyethanol by percentage therfore is not as powerful a cleaner but is also less harmful on putty used in filling seams etc. If your really desperate a soak in brake fluid will work (honestly it won't hurt the plastic, I tried it) but you have to really clean the model after so you can paint it. The "old" Easy Off oven spray will also work but stinks like heck and WILL burn your skin, nose and lungs if your not careful. CRC cleaner degreaser works well also and can be found at most auto parts stores. I have not tried Polly S Easy Lift-Off yet (Sold by Floquil) but mine is on the way, and I understand it is the best paint remover for modelers. All of the above things do work to remove enamel paint, I checked all but the Polly S, but unfortunately won't remove Tamiya's rattle can laquer paint which is what I painted the Countach with. I really hope Polly S will remove laquer. Hope this helps.

Dave


----------



## 440 dakota (Feb 23, 2006)

I used to use a product by Scalecoat it was found with the model R/R stuff,worked on all paints just soak model in a sealed container(I used a Johan display case upside down) and toothbrush any stubborn areas,always worked great even on lacquer and never had any problem with plastic getting soft even on old old kits but I'm not sure if its made anymore I havn't fooled with models for years but have been getting the itch to build again 

Dave let us know how the Poly-S works when you try it


----------



## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

Polly S works!! A fellow modeler from our club had a bit left from years ago and gave it to me to try out. I wish I had more. Soak it on and let it set for a couple of minutes and brush away. It will take several coats and a bit of brushing but for a coating that was resistant to even ZipStrip (yes I was that desperate, and yes it does melt plastic, and yes I'll make a new side scoup) thats more than acceptable. A couple of words of caution, 1 - use in a well ventalated area it makes east off smell like roses, 2 - wear gloves, especially if you have a date that night - get this stuff on your skin and the only thing that will come close is the dog and he'll either want to roll on you or bury you. This stuff contains two butylated solvents and after twenty five years as a chemist I can say for certain "don't get it on you".

I do recommend you to get some of this stuff get it stash it.

Now back to the Countach!

Dave E


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Mineral spirits is the best thing to use to get soft enamel paint off. Only lacquer thinner removes lacquer - hence the name. A lot of companies claim their product is lacquer, when it's usually only enamel, or acrylic. Better to be safe than sorry - I use lacquer all the time for finishes that need to be wetsanded. I reserve this only for big models. Everything else is usually primer, acrylic, or enamel. Enamel is only good for small projects, or engines. This way, if it doesn't cover sufficiently, or I don't like the color - I can change it easily with "mean green, or "simple green". 

~ Still sick of being the God of being unwanted


----------



## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

I dunno Dyonisis, I just tried that Purple Power from WalMart for the first time on an old car I painted with an automotive lacquer about 10 years ago, it took a day but it took it off cleanly. I also threw some motorcycle parts painted with the newer Tamiya spray, it's very similar to a lacquer and again, it took it off cleanly. I used brake fluid for many years, this Purple Power stuff has got me sold now. Zombie hit it right on the head with that suggestion.


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Pete McKay said:


> ...this Purple Power stuff has got me sold now. Zombie hit it right on the head with that suggestion.


I'd love to be able to take credit for it, but I learned about Purple Power here at Hobby Talk. BTW, it strips chrome plated parts just as well! :thumbsup:


----------

