# Great price on accessories!



## SCJ (Jul 15, 1999)

Let me start by saying I have no idea who this guy is nor have I ordered from him.

With that said, this guy has some great prices on painted, unpainted figures, LED light kits, working traffic lights, trees and uh trumpet felts? He even has them in just about any scale you want 1/87, 1/64, 1/32, OO, N etc. ........China of course.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/wehonest_cn/m.html?_ipg=200&_sop=12&_rdc=1



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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I've ordered from them before. I was pleasantly surprised the street lights were painted brass. I really expected them to be plastic. They are all over the place with their little folk, so pay close attention if you order people for your spectators. Shipping took about two weeks.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

interesting seller, thanx for the heads up.


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## SCJ (Jul 15, 1999)

*I had to do it......*

Even though I'm not ready for them yet, I just couldn't resist......300 painted figures and 60 painted/seated for $25 bucks! This guys prices are hard to beat! :thumbsup:

I'll LYK how it goes.

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com


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## hojoe (Dec 1, 2004)

I ordered 90 sitting people for my bleachers and 20 led lamps for about $30. I plan on replacing most of my street lights with these. LED's will burn brighter and cooler. I can't wait for these and I'll let you know how it turns out.
hojoe


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

slotcarman12078 said:


> I've ordered from them before. I was pleasantly surprised the street lights were painted brass. I really expected them to be plastic. They are all over the place with their little folk, so pay close attention if you order people for your spectators. Shipping took about two weeks.


slotcarman1 - would his "Pre Wired 3mm Clear LEDs with White Light for DC12V - DC16V" work as replacements for lighted AFX and Aurora cars with burned out bulbs? Or are they too bulky?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Bob, one thing I found out about LEDs rated at or above 12 volts is that they won't work well with lesser volts.
so, when you are running on your track and you don't have the controller at full, you get less than 12 volts to the car (depending on power supply).
don't know the answer, but with all the magic Joe LED builds into the handmade circuit boards he still is trying to use high OHM arms to allow the car to get more volts through the controller and allow the lights to shine brighterererer. 
two flashing LEDs vehicles that were rated for 12 volts that I tried to build would not flash on track, but would on power supply or with wheels off track and controller at full or near full using an 18 volt supply.
it took JoeLED quite sometime to figure out a cure and they both work great now (THANK YOU JOEled).
bulky? I don't know. they look that way. maybe JOE LED will post some pics of the ones he uses before he hones them down to fit his creations! ? ! ?


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Here's the deal... LEDs are directional. Almost all the light is emitted through the dome on a 3.0 mm. If the LED is able to point towards the head lights that issue should work. 

From what I can see from their pictures, it looks like there's about 1/4" of bending room right below the base of the LED. That wire is way heavier than I use for my stuff, but since we're talking snap on bodies it might be okay. Ball park guess you're looking at 1" from LED tip to the end of the heat shrink tube. My guess is it's double wrapped (one on the negative leg, and then the other on everything). That will make bending it a bit harder. 

I wouldn't recommend spending too much money on these. white LEDs are cheap enough. I get mine from this guy... http://www.led-switch.com/3mm LED.htm 680, 750, and 820 ohm 1/4 watt resistors are radio shack stocked items, for starters 5 for like 2.00. Assuming you have a soldering iron and solder, you can make these yourself. Just remember, the longer leg on the LED goes to + and the shorter goes to -. And don't try without a resistor or it'll go PoP!!!! :lol: 

You might have to experiment with resistor values a bit. As Al pointed out, lower ohm arms have a different power band, and it really messes up how an LED behaves. Because they go so fast with barely a touch of the controller, the LED doesn't get enough juice to light. If you use a lower ohm resistor, the LED will work, but then if you go wide open on the controller you'll overdrive the LED and shorten it's life span dramatically. Tricky business for sure!!:freak:


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

Al and Slotcarman - thanks for the input! As usual, not as simple as I thought. Might opt for some of the grains of wheat lights instead as I've used those as replacements in the past


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

That would probably be a better option, just test what you get as some GOW bulbs get hot very quickly, even within the voltage they are billed at. You don't want melted hoods!!

A couple things I forgot to mention last night that are worth mentioning. There is more to the issue than just the arm ohms. The gearing makes a difference too. A JL T jet with a 14 tooth pinion lit up behaves differently than an Aurora with a 9 tooth pinion. This is because the JL is faster than the Aurora at the same controller position. Slowing down for curves with the JL means less controller, which usually isn't enough to keep the LEDs lit, while a 9 toothed T jet the LEDs will easily stay lit through the curve. This same problem applies to AFX, Magnatraction, Xtraction and 4 gear types since the pinion/crown ratio is the same or worse. Lowering the resistance will address the problem... I should have gone a bit lower with my resistor options in my first reply, but there is a higher risk of over-driving the LEDs on a track where you can mash the controller. 

Also, I have had some issues with LEDs that run on an unprotected circuit. A N4001 diode on the negative side of things seemed to help. All of my light ups come with a full wave bridge rectifier now to protect the circuit from that problem.


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

That right there is why you carry the LED Burner Outer in your Avatar listing.

Great Knowledge abounds here on Hobby Talk. Any thread that you read.

Thanks SCM!

Rob


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## shocker36 (Jul 5, 2008)

The reason why leds dont work well under the voltage they are rated for is they arent meant to be dimmed. I guess in other words they dont have a smooth sine wave pattern like a regular lamp its more of a step so any drop in voltage is huge on a led vs a incandescent. If that helps


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## shocker36 (Jul 5, 2008)

Also you might be able to use a small capacitor in series with the led to help keep the voltage up.


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## SCJ (Jul 15, 1999)

I received my order today, not bad turn around time from China and for only $5 shipping......ALL items were as described. Strongly suggest this seller if you're looking for these type items.

:thumbsup::thumbsup: Two thumbs up!

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com


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