# crazy reason



## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

What is the craziest reason you have seen someone fail a post race tech inspection?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Colored lexan windows.


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## beast1624 (Mar 28, 2009)

the shape of 1 (one) tooth on a T-Jet idler gear 'looked funny'.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

You can't fail at Robs...yet.


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## Greg W (May 22, 2013)

Wrong shade of color on the body, tire too small buy .001 measured with calipers


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

not knowing that the new mattel arms were 3ohm and not 6ohms (me)
not knowing my calipers needed batteries so my .302 rear crown was .296
Not looking at an arm to see it was balanced for a stock arm race!! (me)

had friend get dq for glue on his chassis(not on the car when it went to the tech table) and when it was glue he did not own

Also heard about brush grooves being to deep, when there are no specs on that rule, it can change from race to race.


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

One time I platinum plated a pair of pickup shoes. Just to see if it helped. I ran a few practice laps. It didn't help so I switched them out. I buffed off the platinum and used them on race day. Finished in the top three. At tech I was dqed because a little bit of the plating was still on the side of one shoe. The rules where that no plated shoes allowed. That's ok I messed up.


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

this is why I stick to basement racing with friends.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> this is why I stick to basement racing with friends.


understood

But
most of this was basement racing with friends (we just have rules)

then on the flip side, I have made a lot new friends by going to other races and HOPRA nationals.

not to mention how much stuff I have learned from many helpful racers out there.


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

It's stupid things like I experianced that make me want to sell all my stuff.


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

One kinda dumb DQ and one that was more than reasonable. 

The Dumb DQ, A friend and I went out of town to a race on a club's large oval track. No banking, 6 lanes. My friend built a chassis up with a slip rear axle that only turned the right side rim, the left was free spinning. Pre-race inspection it was allowed. After 1, 5 minute heat, he was up 30+ laps and DQ'd from finishing the rest of the race. We went back a few weeks later to a similar event on the same track and everyone was running the slip rear axle, now legal to complete a race with!

The Reasonable DQ was on one of my cars. I had custom turned some brush barrels and heat sinks for an Aurora Super Magnatraction car and was entered to race in an organized event. I was DQ'd after the second heat, because my car was determined to be a hazard to the turn marshals. If you happened to grab the chassis at the heat sinks, you could get branded by them. I had not run my chassis in for more than a couple of minutes at a time, so I did not know how hot it would get. I knew they got quite warm, doing their job, but I never intended watching a marshal drop that hot potato like he did. Turned out they were nuclear hot after 2 heats. But that car never blew an armature.

-Paul


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> It's stupid things like I experianced that make me want to sell all my stuff


I know what your saying! I have some very bad experiences in the hobby as well. 

But I will not let others control me. I like racing and will not jet others stop me from what I like.

So people who have issues, I simply label them a V.I. and move on.
That way PIGheaded people are just a joke I can laugh at.:wave:


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## slotcardan (Jun 9, 2012)

............


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## beast1624 (Mar 28, 2009)

I hear you Dan. That stinks.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> Turned out they were nuclear hot after 2 heats. But that car never blew an armature.


I used to think that arms got super hot until I purchased a heat gun.
what the skin feels has hot, is not really hot for the car.

just an FYI 



> Most adults will suffer third-degree burns if exposed to 150 degree water for two seconds. Burns will also occur with a six-second exposure to 140 degree water or with a thirty second exposure to 130 degree water. Even if the temperature is 120 degrees, a five minute exposure could result in third-degree burns.


I would say on average, most arms probely run 140 to 150 degrees.
a well tuned super stock is between 125 - 135


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## smalltime (Jun 3, 2006)

I was at the Fray one year, when Steve Ward won the indis.

The six cars from the Indis were sitting on the tech table, all in a pretty row.

Before they started tech, there was a need for a table in front of the stage, and two folks were handing the table OVER the tech table and dropped it. The corner of the table center punched Steve's car. Breaking the chassis in three pieces. They did award him the win, After all six participants agreed to do so.

I can still see Him pealing the shell off the poor chassis like a hard boiled egg...........


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

I had a car that was dqed because one pole on the arm measured one tenth below legal. The week before it teched fine.

. The week after the dq, it tech fine. The moral of the story,temperature, temperature, temperature.


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

When I raced karts we got dq'ed for a smaller restrictor plate on our motor. We raced some weekends Fri, Sat, & Sun. Sometimes in 3 different states. It was in Pa. we raced the night before in WV. But we left the motor alone & didn't think anything about it. I finished 2nd both nights we never got torn down in WV but, in Pa. we did. I was not really paying attention (I was like 12). But then I heard my Uncle yelling which he never hardly shouted at all. 

Even the fellow racer's couldn't believe what they were hearing. Failing post race tech inspection for a smaller plate. We went back the next weekend and waxed them. Won the heat, feature. With the bigger plate. They looked at that motor. For a long time. My Uncle to told them they may want to count the threads on some of the bolts. They never did notice when we went across the scales that our pull starter was a fake one that was full of lead.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> The moral of the story,temperature, temperature, temperature


 I ran into this as well!
moral of the story is spec arm!!!

then if any arm ohms the same or higher, it is legal:thumbsup:


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Many , Many Moons ago ( old ***** slang) I was D, qed because the track owners brother got tired of me whipping his Kid. The brother wasn't even entered in the race but they tore my motor down ( grp 12) and cut the windings with a dremel and " discovered" i had too many winds on my arm?????? It was a stock Mura armature that i bought from the track owner I just " fiddled with the timing a wee bit. I never went back and he closed down. Now we are bestest friends drag racing.... help each other out and never go back to that fatefull night...
Clyde-0-Mite


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

slotking said:


> I ran into this as well!
> moral of the story is spec arm!!!
> 
> then if any arm ohms the same or higher, it is legal:thumbsup:


That 's a great idea!!


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

pshoe64 said:


> One kinda dumb DQ and one that was more than reasonable.
> 
> The Dumb DQ, A friend and I went out of town to a race on a club's large oval track. No banking, 6 lanes. My friend built a chassis up with a slip rear axle that only turned the right side rim, the left was free spinning. Pre-race inspection it was allowed. After 1, 5 minute heat, he was up 30+ laps and DQ'd from finishing the rest of the race. We went back a few weeks later to a similar event on the same track and everyone was running the slip rear axle, now legal to complete a race with!
> 
> ...


Pshoe, how do you make that one wheel drive axle? Sounds cool. Thanks.


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

mrtjet said:


> Pshoe, how do you make that one wheel drive axle? Sounds cool. Thanks.


I think I understand how to do it. But, yes this something I would like to see as well.


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## Elcaminobill (May 2, 2013)

FOSTBITTEN said:


> I think I understand how to do it. But, yes this something I would like to see as well.


I'm curious too and wonder whether you make the inside or outside wheel the drive wheel?


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

Elcaminobill said:


> I'm curious too and wonder whether you make the inside or outside wheel the drive wheel?


According to PShoes's post you make the right side the drive wheel, & the left free-spinning.


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## Elcaminobill (May 2, 2013)

FOSTBITTEN said:


> According to PShoes's post you make the right side the drive wheel, & the left free-spinning.


That sure was in his post. I don't know how I missed that the 1st time. Thanks for pointing it out for me.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

I do it a little different.
I use a hub tire combo so that the silicone tire slips on the hub providing a slip differential either turns.

you have to get just right so works with slipping once at speed


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

mrtjet said:


> Pshoe, how do you make that one wheel drive axle? Sounds cool. Thanks.


I think I figured it out. Take your original rear axle out. And use a nail head axle instead. Like on the front of a AW car. The right side use the wheel as you would on your original axle. Then for the left side use the same type of wheel. Only take this one & drill it out a bit. So it spins freely. Then put the sharp end into right side install your gear & put the left side wheel on the nail-head side. I do not know for sure if this is how they did it. But this is the way I think will work. I have not tried it yet. I just had the 25 watt bulb light up above my head.

I think I said this backwards. Free-spin wheel 1st., gear 2nd, & snug fit wheel last.


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## Elcaminobill (May 2, 2013)

slotking said:


> I do it a little different.
> I use a hub tire combo so that the silicone tire slips on the hub providing a slip differential either turns.
> 
> you have to get just right so works with slipping once at speed


What keeps the car from slinging the slipping tire?


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

FOSTBITTEN said:


> I think I figured it out. Take your original rear axle out. And use a nail head axle instead. Like on the front of a AW car. The right side use the wheel as you would on your original axle. Then for the left side use the same type of wheel. Only take this one & drill it out a bit. So it spins freely. Then put the sharp end into right side install your gear & put the left side wheel on the nail-head side. I do not know for sure if this is how they did it. But this is the way I think will work. I have not tried it yet. I just had the 25 watt bulb light up above my head.
> 
> I think I said this backwards. Free-spin wheel 1st., gear 2nd, & snug fit wheel last.


Fyi:THIS DID NOT WORK!!!


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

Elcaminobill said:


> What keeps the car from slinging the slipping tire?


I would say double flanged wheels. I guess.


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## Mister12tooth (Jul 18, 2006)

I know some one that failed a local club race for having a lighted chassis. No one said a word for the whole race, till he won. Yes the light worked.


Jeff


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

*The "Live" Rear Axle*

Here's the rear axle that caused the commotion. It's simple brass washer soldered to the axle. The splines are filed off on the that side of the axle so the rim will spin freely.

-Paul


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

I was thinking about the keeper, but for what ever reason I had mental block on the filing of the axle. 

Are my eyes correct is that a AF/X or Aurora style axle?


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Paul, I've never raced a club lap but your much earlier post caught my attention. Do you per chance have a photo of the chassis with heat sinks? It's not something that I'm likely to peruse but you certainly sparked my interest. I don't recall seeing anything like that before. I always enjoy seeing the innovations that you club guys employ. For example, the free rear axle is something I would not have thought of in a million years....... excellent reading. Thanks.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

I no longer have the SMT chassis with the heat sinks. I think it became a causality of a 6 hour enduro a year after it was DQ'd. If I remember right, the chassis broke at the front axle (they were molded into the chassis). The heat sinks looked very much like the BSRT heat sinks from the late 80's. I might still have the heat sinks. I'll dig through the parts bins and see if I kept those.

-Paul


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## SprintEz (Apr 29, 2014)

mrtjet said:


> What is the craziest reason you have seen someone fail a post race tech inspection?


^interested as well


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