# g jet tuning and options?



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

mornin fellas got a new g jet as valentinesday day gift from my lovely wife. it arrived yesterday. afterday lookin it over i realized i dont know how to take it apart! i dont think its too hard but,i didnt want to break anything yet.i guess im lookin for an exploded view and some tips/oiling/wheel options and such.stuff like bulkheads and endbells is all greek to me cuz i only have tjets nonmag af/x riggen /tycopro.so i,m asking for suggestions. thanx joe g


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

it's essentially a super G+ with brass weights instead of traction magnets. Find yourself a SG+ diagram and you're good to go.

I'll post more later, off to a G-Jet race today.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

joegri said:


> mornin fellas got a new g jet as valentinesday day gift from my lovely wife. it arrived yesterday.
> afterday lookin it over i realized i dont know how to take it apart! i guess im lookin for an exploded view


Start at the beginning of your longest straightaway.
Pull the trigger all they way and hold until a loud knocking sound is produced.
Oil before reassembly.


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Start at the beginning of your longest straightaway.
> Pull the trigger all they way and hold until a loud knocking sound is produced.
> Oil before reassembly.


 :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## coach61 (Sep 6, 2004)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Start at the beginning of your longest straightaway.
> Pull the trigger all they way and hold until a loud knocking sound is produced.
> Oil before reassembly.


you forgot set power supply to 30 volts....but dang funny just the same...:wave:


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Joe, as Marty mentioned, a G+ diagram will give you an idea of parts.
The chassis is up-graded to a G-3. The car has front weights between wheels. Rear weights replace traction mags. Tire set ups are .350 for fronts
and .450 for rear. The biggest difference is a 9 ohm arm replaces the Tomy
6 ohm arm. The car is designed to run on 12 volts which is similar to trains
& larger scale slot cars. The higher ohm arm & lower volts make the car
predictable & smooth to drive. Body choice can be snap on hard plastic
or Lexan w/body posts supplied. Use a 45 ohm controller, if the butt comes too far out on a turn, a quick blip usually is good to go! Occasionally you 
might find yourself doing a full 360, it's all good!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

i did find a how to on youtube how to remove stuff seems i gotta have some type of removal tool 14.00 and other things like that. at the moment it goes just fine!do you use front independent rims/ axel? also i got the body pinswith it. will they screw in or will i have to bore threads into chassis before screwing in posts?these are just afew ? i had.my buddy came , shook his head and said i,m sick!i agreed and burned a blisstering lap. how ya like me now? now go get your #%&* shinebox (goodfellas referance)


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

joegri said:


> i did find a how to on youtube how to remove stuff seems i gotta have some type of removal tool 14.00 and other things like that. at the moment it goes just fine!do you use front independent rims/ axel? also i got the body pinswith it. will they screw in or will i have to bore threads into chassis before screwing in posts?these are just afew ? i had.my buddy came , shook his head and said i,m sick!i agreed and burned a blisstering lap. how ya like me now? now go get your #%&* shinebox (goodfellas referance)


Are you sure you got a G-Jet? If you're looking at one you'll see it does not have an independent front end....

As for body posts, do they have threads? Take a close look... if they do, then yes, you'll need the thread tool first. If not, just a dab of super glue and stick them in, dry fit them first to make sure they fit. I would HIGHLY recommend getting threaded posts if you can, Scale Auto sells the threading tool as well as the tool to put the posts on and off.

You really shouldn't need to take this car apart for a LOOOONG time, for the moment I would just run it and have fun, practice screwing up an old SG+ for awhile until you get the hang of it. And buy yourself an endbell tool as well, you'll need it.

Hope that helps!


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