# filletted/ boiled n dyied



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

i,m not sure where this build fits cuz it,s not a custom nor a full blown racer so, i,ll put it here. this is a chassis that i got months ago. cuz i read that the F chassis was the best to build. when i got it it was so warped that i didnt know what to do. after a nite on chat my pal CJ offered to boil it to straight,n it out . after a cross country trip i got it back and to my surprise he also dyied it. i put all the go fast parts on it and did a serious lapping session to it n i was rewarded with a very fast chassis n a smooth running tjet that is in the top say 7 cars at my trak(thanx CJ).but the point i,m getting at is boiling a chassis n some tuning you can build a great car. and let me just mention the body has been hangin round waiting for a chassis that is worthy. it,s a ferrari 250 from alpha slot here on the ht. prolly the most detailed cast i,ve ever seen!! in all it took maybe 2 months or so to finish but it,s done n i,m diggin it. you fellas please speake of boiling n dying.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Pardon my T-Jet History Ignorance, but whats an "F" Chassis ? I do see some extra brass plates under the rivets on the underside ?


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Wow, that thing looks great, I think you have a winner with the Ferrari, Quido like a the Ferrari

As for the extra brass under the rivets that may have been a lighted chassis at one time.

Boosted


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

ralph, chassis and gear plates have mold identifiers in the form of letters or numbers. the extra copper is for the wires to the lights as pointed out by Boosted. some fray builders prefer them for the additional patch of contact in the electric circuit and when the rivet is tapped, they hold a little tighter. I think! LOL


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Thanks Al :thumbsup:


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

yes it was a lighted chassis at 1 time ,but i managed to get some nippers under there n snipped off the excess off the end kinda like a moile(spelling).but what i,m askin bout is why an f chassis and boilin n dyin. check it the blue is cool !!!dont want to sound like a broken record but thanx CJ great job man!!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

the boiling is to straighten the chassis and possibly shrink the axle holes. some folks think the dye fills in some of the gaps in the molecules and helps stiffen the chassis.


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## CJ53 (Oct 30, 2007)

AL 
Never heard of shrinking the axle holes.. but I have heard it somewhat seals the chassis and makes the bores smoother? Might be Voodoo, might be true.. 
I dyed all my Tyco 440x2 chassis' back in the day simply to make sure they were Id'd.. and usually it complimented the body that was on it.. 
Disclaimer on the tjet.. Read somewhere oh the board,, another member boiled one to straighten it out.. and it returned to it's twisted shape again.. and he just used a different sized tire to make up for the twist.. 
Joe's chassis was a complete experiment for the twist.. and I advised him the twist could come back ,, per what I had read.. 
I also remember being told ,, dye won't take on a tjet... Joe's took it just as well as my old 440x2's ever did.. 

Joegri,, 
Hope it works well for ya.. looks good in the pics!
Enjoy
CJ53


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Think of it as a 6 way alignment*

Nice build Joe!

Yer a class act Ceej!

A beautiful casting Greg!...Hands down the best GTO ever made for HO...IMHO

Boiling/jigging a chassis serves to correct any weirdness between the axle bores. Squaring the bores up and down-n- side to side helps limit axle bind; which is a major source of friction. Squaring the bores front to rear keeps the axles parallel to one another so the chassis rolls straight and doesnt scrub off speed due to pulling or crabbing.

Whether the correction holds permanently is a matter of some debate. I've solved it this way. I dont boil anything anymore. If I have a bad chassis, one that doesnt slide across the jig nicely...I just chop the front end off of it and make a rat out of it. Then the chassis has "dyed" for a good cause! :tongue:


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I have boiled all my "fray" type cars that I have built, out of near 20 or so, I only had one return to the twisted state, a second boiling process has taken care of the twist yet to date on it. I did have a JL chassis that I tried to straighten and to no avail could not get it to stay flat, (although I did not try Bill's method of removing the front end). I have also heard of guys putting them straight into the freezer after the boil. although I have never tried that. I just let them fully cool while in the boiling block. 

CJ thanks for the info

Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Cold water can also be used to set them.
Take the chassis directly from the boiling water and drop it into ice cold water.
Used to work on Wizzard chassis,shocks the memory of the plastic,so it retains the memory you want it to have.
Anybody try boiling them in something other then water


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I've heard WD40 or CRC. don't know the results.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

thanx fellas for the positve thoughts on the build and cj for saving this 1 from just sitting in a box. i fully agree with bill h that this 250 gto is the best looking gto to be cast. i recently bought the rt-ho gear press and this gear plate was the first 1 i tried. it was neat to use now i gotta save a lil bit o ching to buy ricks boilin jig! and some dye for the next 1 that is in the planning stage. got my order in to yellow jacket for an arm.now the blue streak will take its place in the infield.kinda sad when a build ends. for me its the chase of the build


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> Anybody try boiling them in something other then water


 :wave:


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## dnybsbl (Jan 20, 2010)

slotking said:


> :wave:


Why does that not surprise me Mike... Do I dare ask what you used?


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## philo426 (Mar 4, 2009)

That body is a 250 SWB (Short Wheelbase Berlinetta) where can I find one?


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

philo the body came from greg gipe aka alpha slot. it says underneath gt 250 and if you look at the chassis pics the wheels are set in the long wheel base position. just pm him and send money wait by the box and yer in!alpha slot makes some of the best casts i,ve seen and is a fellow hobbytalk member.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

He also sells on the Bay under the name "taillights_fade" ...

http://stores.ebay.com/ho-scale-resin-slot-car-body-kits?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Greg is a great guy to deal with!! I've purchased from him a few times, and I wish I could more often. :thumbsup:


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## bearsox (Apr 22, 2006)

Hornet said:


> Cold water can also be used to set them.
> Take the chassis directly from the boiling water and drop it into ice cold water.
> Used to work on Wizzard chassis,shocks the memory of the plastic,so it retains the memory you want it to have.
> Anybody try boiling them in something other then water


*Vinegar , Rit or Dylon dye and salt. The vinegar helps keep excess dye from invading electrical plating and the salt helps to limit the boil and open the pores to absorb more dye in the Nylatron. The chassis should be flash cooled after the boil as best you can to hold the new position . That said i do believe that original memory will win out over time and it will migrate back ever so slowly. The dye BTW does but 2 things .....makes it look cool and serves as a marker for what chassis have had the process done to it !

Bear :wave: *


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

yo b sox glad to hear yer 2 cents. the blue is for .. its cool and as of today its pretty straight. as far as i can tell.. n i hope yer nice n cool in fla!!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Ever feel like you have a big X on your back


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## shipsgunner (Sep 6, 2008)

I have been building fast Tjets for some time and I once tried to black dye my boiled chassis to mark them to which one were done and I could easily pick mine in a lineup of cars in the tech box...

UNFORTUNATELY, the Challenge (director) was convinced that Dyeing a chassis should disqualify it for the Challenge and they were not allowed. He believed that the Dye modified the makeup of the plastic it was dyeing and could possibly be used to "hide" a modification. 

That being the case, the 4 fastest of our 12 cars we had at the 2009 challenge were not allowed to race. You can get paint on the chassis, (marking in tech), write on them with a sharpie to number them, but god forbid you dye them. You could be hiding somehting under that dye. Even though the dye only colors what you did and cannot "hide" a modification to the chassis... They did look pretty cool though.

That was a horrible experience for our team. If you are building for racing, I highly recommend you get prior approval before dying.

For the record, they were the fastest cars in the pile for our team so we were all a little upset... 

SG


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

bummer gunner. thank you for the heads up!


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## bearsox (Apr 22, 2006)

shipsgunner said:


> UNFORTUNATELY, the Challenge (director) was convinced that Dyeing a chassis should disqualify it for the Challenge and they were not allowed. He believed that the Dye modified the makeup of the plastic it was dyeing and could possibly be used to "hide" a modification.
> 
> 
> 
> SG


*LOL ! That is a seriously lame excuse to DQ a car when dye is but a marker and straightening a chassis has been around for WAY WAY before the Challenge was in existence !  Sadly it happens and i have seen things like this under other umbrella's and other guises.

Bear :wave: *


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