# B&S fuel problem



## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

Hi,
I've gotten an older (20-25 yr?) Coleman generator from my dad that quit running after Hurricane Sandy. He replaced it and was going to throw it away, so I saved it to see if I could get it running. If I add a touch of gas down the throat of the carb, it runs for 5-15 seconds and then dies. In the "Introduce yourself" thread, I posted this problem and USMCGRUNT suggested that it might be the fuel pump diaphram. This is a B&S Model#130232, Type#3031-01, Code#87052907, with a pulsa-jet carb. (mounted on top of fuel tank) I got a carb rebuild kit from MFG Supply on-line (very promptly, I might add) and replaced the diaphram, several gaskets and the needle valve. No change. I took it apart again and blew thru the intake tube and every other opening as I traced the path the gas would have to take and found no blockages. Any suggestions? Thanx, Dave


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

It's a fuel delivery problem, when you removed the carburetor from the tank, did you notice if the cup the short tube sits in has fuel in it? If it's dry, then the problem is with the fuel pump diaphragm. If there is fuel in the cup, then the issue is in the pickup tube or metering jet and must have some type of restriction. You could also have an air leak between the intake manifold and cylinder head.


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

*Re: Fuel prob*

I filled the the reservoir with gas and have a new gasket between head and intake mani. I can easily blow through the long tube to the main fuel tank , but the short intake from the cup I can only blow in a brass jet-looking thing higher up the side, nothing from the bottom. Should I be able to blow in that tiny ball bearing at the bottom, and if so, how do I clear it? Thanx, Dave


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

This is an excellent site for information on you type of pulsa jet carb. :http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_pulsa-jet_horiz_fixed.asp

Make sure the tank is clean and the reservoir is clean. Additionally, many of the cups after setting, will rust through and not hold gas.


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

The reservoir is reasonably clean and not rusted thru. I think I have identified my problem but I don't know how to correct it. On the excellent info page that dehrhardt recommended, in photo #14 the ball plug in the blue square is pressed in and won't fall out past flush, as in the photo. Any ideas how to get that tiny beebee unstuck? Also, if I have to replace the carb, my brother-in -law recommended replacing the tank in case there was warpage and the carb didn't seal well to the tank. Is that really necessary? That tank is $60 and looks fine to me. Thanx, Dave


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

The ball plug isn't designed to come out. you're not supposed to remove it. If you end up getting a new carburetor, I would reuse the old tank unless it is rusty inside. If the engine didn't leak gas between the tank and carb before, it shouldn't now. The diaphragm doesn't mount between the carb and the tank on this engine, so as long as it doesn't leak, you're OK


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

I didn't mean to give the impression that I thought the ball plug could be removed, but that it should drop down to flush, or just past flush, with the bottom of the short tube. Right now its about 1/16" pushed in and there's no movement at all. A friend has an ultra-sonic cleaner that we had it in for an hour or more and we still got no movement. We've concluded that it is hopelessly varnished tight and I have a new carb on order. Thanx for the input, Dave


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Will_Workforgear said:


> I didn't mean to give the impression that I thought the ball plug could be removed, but that it should drop down to flush, or just past flush, with the bottom of the short tube. Right now its about 1/16" pushed in and there's no movement at all. A friend has an ultra-sonic cleaner that we had it in for an hour or more and we still got no movement. We've concluded that it is hopelessly varnished tight and I have a new carb on order. Thanx for the input, Dave


That ball is a plug, it should be tight and there should not be any movement at all. If your carburetor has the adjustment screw, then you need to make sure the fuel path in the short pick up is open from the jet to the adjustment screw, and then open from the adjustment screw to the carburetor venturi, or you can just replace the carburetor.


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

I can blow thru the tiny side brass thing (jet?) on the short tube and I can blow thru the adjustment screw (after removing the screw, of course). Where else can I look for an obstruction? Thanx, Dave


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Try spraying some carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner though the jet on the short tube, it should come out where the adjustment screw goes in. This path is likely where the obstruction is.


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

Thanx, 30yearTech, I'll give that a try. Dave


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

*Now What?*

Well, I couldn't clean out the old carb enough to get it to run, so I ordered a new one. Just installed it and it does exactly the same, runs for 5 to 15 seconds and slowly dies. I'm open to suggestions. Thanx, Dave


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

If you have a new carb, and are sure there's nothing in the tank clogging the pickup tube, I would first check the gas cap to make sure it is venting.


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

Thanx, dehrhardt. But I just went out and started it with the cap off and it still died after 15 seconds. By the by, I think I've seen you post at SimpleTractors. Always educated by your thoughts and experience. Thanx, Dave


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

*Maybe?*

I may have found the problem. There's very poor compression. I've heard getting a reading from a compression tester is problematic, but I did anyhow and it barely reached 40psi. That with the feeling of uniform spin when pull-starting leads me to suspect that this is the problem: poor compression = poor diaphram movement = no fuel. I'll let you know.... Thanx, Dave


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

If you don't have a leak down tester to find what is lowering compression,pull the breather cover off and check for valve clearance.The intake should be .005 to .007.The exhaust .009 to .011.


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

While you have the breather cover off, you should also check that both valves are being lifted about the same. 

Check for any restriction in the exhaust.

You didn't mention whether you still have to prime it with gas to get it to run those 15 to 25 seconds before it dies. 40 psi is low, but i'd think it would still light and that the fuel pump should work.

Having the fuel tank as full as possible sometimes helps get these things going. Check to see that the tank is flat on the bottom, as there is not a lot of clearance between the long tube and the bottom of the tank. 

Thank you for the compliment, but unless I have been typing in my sleep, I have never posted on that site!


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## Will_Workforgear (Aug 29, 2013)

I could have sworn I've run across that name somewhere on these forums, kind of unusual so that it caught my eye when I saw it again. The tank is full and flat, completely undamaged. I do need to add gas to make it run most of the time. Sometimes it'll start after several prime-&-die cycles without a prime. The exhaust has one snapped stud and certainly seems clear. I've got rings and a gasket kit coming, should be her before the weekend. I'll certainly give the valves the once over while I'm in there. I'll update you by Monday AM. Thanx, Dave


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## Lawnmower_Mechanic_7 (Oct 7, 2020)

I have a Simplicity 4211 lawn mower, been sitting outside for 30+ years. I replaced the carb, got new fuel lines, and tried a little bit of starting fluid. It runs for about 10 seconds, then dies. Can anybody help with this issue? It is a Briggs and Stratton 11hp engine.


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