# Everyone builds the Polar Lights one...



## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

I'm building an ERTL NCC-1701-A.

Polar Lights? Nice kit. Too easy. I wanted to start with a kit so bad it would be easier to build the whole model from planks of spruce.

First step, get the DLM update kits. Done. Don's basic warp engine grills and detail correction kit is a fine place to start. Unfortunately, the deflector housing does not address the inaccurate three sensors surrounding the housing.

Don's version - sensors are set in from edge, "stepped"
Studio model - sensors blend flush towards rear of hull

After mounting the new deflector dish housing, I cut away the sensors and will replace them with scratch-built parts.

Next step was to blend away all the old panel stuff and the incorrect grid lines. In the next two photos, you will see corrected window placement on both sides of the hull. I also add the large 6-panel windows each side for the botanical gardens. I have opted to make the surface completely smooth. I will later draw on all the deflector grids with a drafting pen as I feel this look more "scale".

Left side
Right side

I still need to correct the docking ports for size.

I did some paint tests on the upper saucer, working with the patterns and colors. I have settled on a base of gloss white and a panel effect in a white iridescent pearl. The aztec paneling was drawn on compute and machine cut from low-tack vinyl mask.

Saucer paint test
Saucer paint test


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## REL (Sep 30, 2005)

Very nice.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Just a note: there are NO rectangular view ports on the “right” side of the engineering hull aft towards the bay doors! 

http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/STMPEnterprise/ColorPhotos/cSTMPent73.jpg

And if you build the “A” the five view ports on the “right” side must also go (see same link), 


Edit: this is what it should look like on your kit (see attached pitcture)


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

Lookin' good, Hal! I like that you've picked up on several things that a lot of those things that folks don't take notice, particularly the "step" on the sensors. :thumbsup:

Don't forget that Millenia Models Int'l makes photo-etch docking ports for the kit. You can purchase them thru Federation Models. Go to "Products", then select "Millenia Models International" and scroll down "Constitution Mk II Docking Ports", product Item #MMI-1848. 

HTH,


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Good call, Gar. I was hoping to hear from you. I checked the B&W reference photos on Cloudster to confirm. Yes, the long windows starboard aft are incorrect. I got some filler putty ready to go.

Although this will be the "A" markings, I am going to maintain that any windows lost in the "A" version were not the responsibility of Star Fleet Corps of Engineers, just the model makers being sloppy. I like the windows being there, "A" version or not. Maybe in that photo someone had just pulled down their "privacy shades" and were taking a nap.

Griff -- noted, but I'm thinking of decals this time.

Garbaron -- I expect you to nag me on this one all the way. Don't let me get away with anything stupid.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

That looks really great so far! I actually enjoy working on these amt/ertl ones. It's a good challenge.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Excellent start. Looking forward to updates


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Have you determened how too address the problem with getting the neck to sit correctly on top of the secondary hull? Because I have a solution that I believe will work. It does involve scratch building an internal jig, don't know what else to call it, and the 2 pieces thaat go on top of the hull wil need to be modified.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

There will be an internal support armature. I would like to see your suggestion for the jig, however. Please post some drawings!


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## xr4sam (Dec 9, 1999)

Rogue, you're a sucker for punishment. It's looking good so far! I can't wait to see it finished. 

One day, I'll crack out my PL refit. One day.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Looks great. Smaller ports help create a better scale effect. Looking forward to the updates! :thumbsup:


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Don't got any drawings but I will describe for you if you like.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Roguepink said:


> Garbaron -- I expect you to nag me on this one all the way. Don't let me get away with anything stupid.


You can bet I won’t let you slip with anything stupid!

And I concur with SteveR.. reduce the docking ports diameter since they are WAY too large in their original form! I reduced the ports on my ERTL Refit to an inner diameter of about 4 mm.. its actually a bit too small but I couldn’t find any other plastic tubes in local stores. 

http://www.culttvman.com/thorsten_scholz_ncc-1701-a_pic_37.html


Yeah….your right… I have the rectangular view ports there and 3 in front of the docking port. That’s because I learned of them missing after I hade sealed the decals and virtual finished the kit and did not want to mess up the paint job. And since am about to get back to work on my PL am not going to fix it.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Quick update.

All the windows on the hull are where I want them. I clarify that this is the Refit, non-A version. That means I get to keep some windows, right?

I am extending the obs deck over the hangar doors, using Apoxie sculpt. Nice stuff!

I'm using the Apoxie to build new sensor bumps on the deflector housing. Today I'll get them shaped down and add the raised rails and other stuff. Film at 11.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Great work, so far! :thumbsup:

I appreciate your attention to detail!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Roguepink said:


> Quick update.
> 
> All the windows on the hull are where I want them. I clarify that this is the Refit, non-A version. That means I get to keep some windows, right?


Yes, you keep the five view ports in front of the docking port but still loose the two rectangular ones aft of the pylon.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

First image, this is the rough finish of the new sensor pods surrounding the main deflector.

Left Pod

The dome is Apoxie with styrene rails and detailing. It now blends flush to the hull. Rail spacing was measured with a digital micrometer to be even on all three pods.

Next, this is the starboard side. Note the filled in windows aft and I also decreased the diameter of the docking ports on both sides.

Right Side

Tomorrow I will sand down the Apoxie and clean up details. I also added some Apoxie to blend down the obs deck over the cargo doors. As you can see in this photo from Cloudster, the obs deck is a smooth transition from door frame to deck overhang. This is quite wrong on the Polar Lights kit as well.

Studio obs deck

That's a nice blended shape, there!

I still need to cut out some plastic and drop in the clear DLM side details on the cargo fantail / door frame.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looking good so far. 

But….  

your missing one round port hole at the upper row just below the warp pylon!


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Great googly-moogly, I missed that port on BOTH sides! Thanks.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

any time my friend


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## marcus welby (Sep 2, 2007)

Rougepink,

Doing a great job, keep up the good work.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Finished resculpting the fantail and obs deck.

left
right

This shape now matches the studio model.

Here's the cleaned-up sensor pods on the main deflector housing.

Pods

Also fixed the window issue (Garbaron is like my own little singing cricket.)

left
right

Rebuilt the VIP lounge framing and drilled new windows in the B/C deck.

VIP windows


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looking very good. Almost makes me want to pick up an ERTL again.. almost


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## marcus welby (Sep 2, 2007)

RoguePink or Garbaron,

Did either of you start with a "bible" of corrections to be made or just eyeball screenshots and get it as close as possible?


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

The "bible" in question is this site: Cloudster

He also has sections detailing the pre-"A" version of this ship as well as several other Star Trek and other science fiction subjects. This collection of photos, however, is the BEST resource available. From here, you learn everything you need to know.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Put a base semi-gloss white on the hull. I need to work the fit of the warp pylon base, still a bit of clean-up on that. I still have not decided how to finish the details around the shuttle door.

Left
Right
Front
Rear

Moving on to the saucer top. Finished clean-up on the VIP framing. Added details to the front of the B deck. Most important, I fixed the warp core cap / crystal mount. On the ERTL kit, this part is set far too high. I removed that part, leaving a clean hole. I sacrificed another ERTL kit for the round part and dropped it into the hole, mounting it flush to the following impulse deck.

Warp core / Impulse deck
B deck details


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

very nice... go on lets see some more 

As for the "bible" ... all I have is a Word document of the corrections I did on mine.
You can find a first draft of that build up at CultTvmans with plenty of pictures of the finished Kit: http://www.culttvman.com/thorsten_scholz_uss_enterprise.html

the revised build up contains lots of stuff asked here and over at SM...

Edit: it does not include the correction of the “5 view ports“ (actually 3 on mine since I mirrored the starboard side) on the port side since I was not aware of that the “A” had lost these. Also the 2 rectangular view ports on the port side aft of the pylon are still there since I learned of their absence in a debate with Thomas Sasser when he was still working out the PL Refit and challenged us to find the physical differences of the Refit to the A . But still she turned out quite well and is still the pride of my kit collection


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Base coat on the saucer top.

Detail of new impulse deck.

Side view of saucer.

Still to do: I oversanded the bridge, it is sitting up angle to parallel. Some .010 shim and sanding back to level will fix. I want to add the impulse exhaust ports to the top plate so I can modify as needed. I will build a light box inside the impulse engines and have it snug down into a cut opening in the lower saucer rim.

...damn, looking at that side view, the VIP windows are not right, they need to slant a whole lot more. I'll ignore it for the night, look at it fresh tomorrow and decide if its worth the fix. Hey, it might be fun to scratch a Vulcan shuttle and pop it onto the bridge docking port!

Next up, the lower saucer mods. I already added the DLM planetary sensor, but I have to work on the Rec Deck windows, probably cut them out and build new framing from styrene stock.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Looking at photos of the refit on cloudster there is no round windowon the left side of the forward neck just above the seperation line, it is there on the A but not the refit. But it is there on the right hand side.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Hehe… you’ve fallen for the taped window!

The window is there! Go to the color pictures and you’ll find it right where it is supposed to be. Here I made a composite picture where you can see its taped, then freed on the A Don’t know why they taped it off during the time that picture was taken, possibly some paint job fix up.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

It was a rare practical joke played by Spock. The other side was printed with a very menacing Romulan Warbird. Scotty was convinced that there was a sensor malfunction for two weeks before a lower rank sent to wash the windows discovered it.

To be perfectly accurate, I'll put a very tiny piece of tape over that window when I'm done.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

WOW! Rogue, I'm really impressed by your work and your pace. I look forward to seeing the finished product!!


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Are you going to correect the inacurate landing pads on the saucer bottom?


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Saucer bottom plans:

sand down all raised detailing
fill all recessed detailing (including deflector grid)
add DLM rim windows
add DLM planetary sensor

landing pads and hatch doors will be decals
deflector grid will be drawn
rim deflector will either be decals

Top saucer work:

I decided to reshape the VIP lounge to the correct angle. The more I looked at it, and then at the Polar Lights beastie sitting taped together on the table, I realized I could not let this go.  I filled the inside with Apoxie so I can shape it down. I also attached the impulse exhaust ports to the deck, when the Apoxie dries I will build the LED light box for the engines.

Photos tomorrow evening.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Mind if I drop in? 

Try to get a AMT Reliant planetary sensor! 
Its not totally studio model accurate either but IMO way better then DLMs replacement. 

I know Don fit the shape to the lower saucer profile, but when ever I see a DLM planetary sensor I think “its shape and profile look just way wrong!” 

Here is a shot of the studio model sensor with Reliant and DONs sensor on an ERTL Refit right next to it. You tell me which one looks more like the studio model….


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

That's a tough one. I like Don's detailing better, but yes, the Reliant part has a better overall shape. I don't like the Reliant part's dome, its too shallow. I know the Reliant part does not have detailing in the flood lights. THAT I can add easy enough. Fixing the dome, I don't know yet, but I'll look at it.

Okay, Reliant part instead of Don's, but it needs some work.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

DLM's detailing to me is better overall, especially at the dome area, but the Reliant part has a more accurate overall shape to work from. Might it be possible to remove the Reliant part's dome and replace with Don's dome?


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

You can certainly find a correctly sized half sphere and attach it to the dome. 

My suggestion to Don was, that he should take the Reliant planetary sensor dome. Use it to create a cast of it. Fix the stuff that’s wrong (inner dome part a bit too shallow, add vent detail) and sell it as the new planetary sensor replacement.

Oh and did I mention that the Reliant senor fits nicely on the ERTL Refit?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

That'd be great if there was a new DLM sensor! I'd also like the Polar Lights refit planetary sensor to be tweaked. It looks a little bit flatter than studio model's sensor.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Don's dome on the Reliant part, I can do that.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Okay, having looked at all the available parts, and made some attempt to make Don's part look more correct, I have reached the conclusion that my best option is to toss them all in the bin and make my own.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Hehe .... well thats also a solution to the problem


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

Before I tackle that, I'm taking a couple of days off from the whole thing. I need to "find my muse". Actually, I'll be making drawings and scale conversions to plan out the new part.


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## justinleighty (Jan 13, 2003)

Roguepink said:


> Hey, it might be fun to scratch a Vulcan shuttle and pop it onto the bridge docking port!


I played with that idea at one point; I think the TMP shuttles in the PL refit kit would be approximately the right size to serve as the larger long-range Vulcan shuttle for your kit. You'd have to make a smaller docking ring, but the rest of the shuttle is available already.


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

New drawings based on the Polar Lights planetary sensor and rescaled for the ERTL kit.

planetary sensor drawing


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Perfect!!


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

I couldn't leave the B/C deck shape alone. Not having the DLM part (and, honestly, wanting to do it myself) I reshaped the existing ERTL part.

Old VIP profile.
New VIP profile.

Old
New

Needs some finish sanding and the bridge still needs a bit of shim.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Very Nice!! 

I tried to accomplish just that on my last AMT refit, but the your results are better. 

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b...t Completed/?action=view&current=000_9553.jpg


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

That's about as far as you can take the original part without ripping through the existing plastic. It looks a whole lot better than stock, nice job on it. I like your color choices for the paneling. What paint did you use?

I filled in the inside of the part with Sculpey so I could really work the angle back. Once I had the right outer shape, I ground out the inside to a 0.030 nominal wall thickness, cut out the window area, and then added the vertical framing from strip styrene.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Very nice work on the VIP!


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Roguepink said:


> That's about as far as you can take the original part without ripping through the existing plastic. It looks a whole lot better than stock, nice job on it. I like your color choices for the paneling. What paint did you use?
> 
> I filled in the inside of the part with Sculpey so I could really work the angle back. Once I had the right outer shape, I ground out the inside to a 0.030 nominal wall thickness, cut out the window area, and then added the vertical framing from strip styrene.



Thanks a lot for the compliment!

That sounds like an excellent idea. I might try it on the next AMT refit if I decide not use DLM's replacement. The stock AMT B/C deck is one of the things about that model that makes me cringe. :drunk:


The paints that were used are from Wasco. Here's a link.

http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/05/paint.html

The main pattern is Satin White Pearl, then I layered it with Pearl Blue, Pearl Gold and Pearl Red. All of the subsequent patterns exist within the 'positive' and 'negative' areas of the main Aztek pattern.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Beautiful work! Looks like the shape of the real thing now. :thumbsup:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Good eye! Nice attention to detail, Roguepink!


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## Roguepink (Sep 18, 2003)

It has been pointed out that the DLM deflector dish is way too shallow to match the studio model.

Does anyone have a solution to this? I do not have the resources to mold and cast a new part in clear resin. Otherwise, this is one problem I will have to live with.


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## hell_fighter_8 (Oct 4, 2005)

Here's an idea I had:

On the middle ring, the after the dashed ring moving in, scribe a line on the inside of the flat face, keeping if flush with the wall of the inner most ring, to give it that lip.

For the inner ring, sand down the side wall near the edge to give it a slight angle inwards and the rim around the blue portion isn't so wide.

It doesn't help with the shortness of it but I think it will give the illusion of being longer.


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