# Building a Star Trek Communicator



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I just started building the John Long TOS communicator. 
This is a licensed kit molded from one of the 10 original
communicators built for the show by prop artist Wah Chang.


The quality of the kit is excellent. All parts are as exact as can be after 40 years. The shells are Kydex plastic. I'm told the haircell pattern on modern kydex is slightly different from the Kydex from the '60s. The original Swarovski rhinestone jewels had 8 facets, Swarovski only makes 7 and 11 facet stones now. The kit comes with non Swarovski 8 facet stones that are not of less quality. 

I forgot to take a photo of the antenna before I soldered on the frame.

The instructions say to attach the wire frame to the brass grid with safety wire to hold it in place while soldering with silver solder.

Next I have to solder the hinge discs to the assembled antenna grid.


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## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Silver solder isn't a basic supply in the average model tool chest. Did it say on the box there would be high-temp soldering involved?

You would think by now, some cell phone manufacturer would have put one out.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

I have that kit and will begin some day. My one complaint with the kit is the poor quality of the printed moire patterns. Fortunately I picked up a hi-res set on acetate to replace them. 

Interested in seeing your progress. Are you attempting to add lights & sound or a spinning moire to yours?


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Yah, I did a lot of research on the kit before I bought it. I did know about the soldering. After this bit of soldering the construction gets conventional.
I was worried about the soldering, but so far it has not been bad at all.

The story of the kit can be found here:

http://www.saucersoverhollywood.com/communicator/replicating_a_scifi_icon/index.html

I'm building it as a "dummy", so no lights or spinning moire.


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## Seashark (Mar 28, 2006)

If you haven't already - you may want to check out this site; they have _lots_ of great info.

http://www.herocomm.com/Home.htm


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks. Hero Comm is an amazing web site! I've been going there for a while. The information they have accumulated is incredible.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

A bit more work done.

The antenna assembly is basically done. I think I can put away my soldering stuff.

Next step is to mark and cut the shells.


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## Bobj812 (Jun 15, 2009)

cozmo said:


> You would think by now, some cell phone manufacturer would have put one out.


That's what I've been saying for years.
Of all the updates, remakes, redesigns and whatevers -- nothing does it for me like the original. I had lust for one since I watched TOS first run as a wee lad.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

cozmo said:


> You would think by now, some cell phone manufacturer would have put one out.


I think back in 2007 a company had one, but had to drop it at the last minute due to some kind of legality. 

I think it was sonus or something like that. Too bad I would have bought one.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

A bit more done. 

I read this tip from another forum, I stuck low tac tape over the end of the shell. This allowed me to mark where to cut the slots for the hinges. I placed the completed antenna over the well and marked where the hinges go.


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## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

Looking good!:thumbsup:

I would like to have one that is an AM/FM radio.
The two knobs could control volume, and tuning.
The tiny grid on the left could be band indicator.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I cut out the slots on the top shell with my dremel tool and a cut off wheel.

I cut into the shell about 90% of what I thought I needed and then cleaned it up with a file. This was not that bad, but it took a bit of time. File-test fit-file, repeat. Not to bad so far. The antenna sits nice!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Looks beautiful in that 2nd shot.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks,
It's starting to look like something!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

A bit more progress.

I cut out the hinge slots on the bottom shell this morning. I was very careful not to cut in too far, but I ended going in a few MM to far! DOH! It looks good, but I wanted a tighter fit.

I had to grind the end of the mid plate to fit the hinge discs in nice.
Got to love Dremel tools!

Here is a dry fit so far.

Next on to the inside!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Great job so far.
This is a motivator for me to get started on mine!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Jheilman,

Where did you get your Moire replacements? 

Glad to see you and KUROK have the kit also.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

I purchased mine from RPF member deck5 about a year ago. If you're not a member of the Replica Prop Forum, I can send him a PM and ask if they are still available. If I recall, each set was enough for 2 comms and contained only the spider moire.


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## portland182 (Jul 19, 2003)

mach7 said:


> I think back in 2007 a company had one, but had to drop it at the last minute due to some kind of legality.
> 
> I think it was sonus or something like that. Too bad I would have bought one.


http://cpc.farnell.com/_/usbcomm/communicator-star-trek/dp/LH01529?Ntt=startrek


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Portland182,

That looks cool but it's not the one I was thinking of. The one I was talking about was a full blown cell phone. 

jheilman, thanks I'm not a member of RPF. I might take you up on your offer. Can I ask the cost?

Thanks

Mark


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I got to drill/cut the shells today. The instructions say to drill the 3 jewel holes with a 3/16 drill. This is to small, I had to widen them with my xacto. Not big deal. Be very careful when drilling these holes! The kit has small dents to let you know where to drill, but if the drill drifts even a small amount it will be obvious. My center hole was off by about 1/32 in but I was able to adjust it with my xacto.

The instructions say to use a 3/8 in bit to open up the mic hole. This worked great. Once the hole is drilled it squared off nice with my xacto knife and my blade file.

For the moire hole the instructions say to use a dremel with a tile cutting bit. make a rough cut about 1/8 in inside the marking then finish with a sanding drum. Again this worked great!

Next I gave both shells a quick squirt of flat black, then buffed with fine steel-wool. WOW! did that work! It took all the gloss away but left a slight shine. I am really happy with the results!

I think all I have left is to glue it all together!


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

mach7 said:


> Portland182,
> 
> jheilman, thanks I'm not a member of RPF. I might take you up on your offer. Can I ask the cost?
> 
> Mark


I have contacted him and he still offers the moires. Working on contact info outside the RPF. Stay tuned.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

There was a guy called "TrekMe" over at ASAP that sold some nice Moires.
Could it be the same guy?


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Could be, sounds the same. Both the moires I purchased were on film. Here's the thread. It hasn't seen activity for 6 months, but if it is the same guy, you can contact him through ASAP if you're a member. If not, it's easier to join than the RPF. Although I think there is open enrollment at the RPF for a short time.

http://propreplicas.yuku.com/topic/16000?page=1


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Mach7 - I sent you his email via PM.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks!

I've just glued the antenna axel into the top shell. I placed the antenna where I want it, and taped it in place with low tack tape. Now I'm ready to glue. I was considering many glues, but I went with JB weld. I tacked it down with JB kwik weld, and then flowed over that with partially cured JB weld. The problem with this is JB weld takes 4-6 hrs to set. I have to keep a close eye on it or it flows too far. I've used toothpicks to move it away from the hinges a few times already. I've also flipped it over a few times to let the JB flow the other direction. Over all it's like herding very slow cats!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

The JB weld is rock hard now. The antenna flips nice. 
One problem cropped up, my antenna soldering came undone in 2 places.

I can't re solder because the antenna is attached to the plastic. I used a bit of 
JB kwik weld to reattach it. I hope this works.

I glued the mic grill and the jewel hubs into the shell. I used 5 min epoxy for this.

Next I glued the metal mid plate on using household goop. I heard about this 
on another forum. It seems to work well.

I'll try to post photos tomorrow after the JB dries.


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## JohnG7 (Jan 1, 2010)

*Interested*



mach7 said:


> I'll try to post photos tomorrow after the JB dries.


I know I'll be watching for your updates. What a fantastic kit, and the pics are great. Thanks!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

So far so good. It looks like the JB weld did a good job.

Here is where I am so far:




























I think I'm in the home stretch now. I still have one decision. Do I glue the bottom shell on or drill/tap/screw it on. Oh yah and I have to pick a moire pattern and jewel colors.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Progress in small steps.

The control plate and knobs are on. I used CA for the plate and 1 knob, and Ambroid for the other knob. 

I also cut out the moire pattern to replicate the communicator in the book "The Making of Star Trek". Hero Comm gives this the designation "Gamma"

I have 2 sets of jewels, one set that came with the kit. They are cheaper rhinestones that have the correct 8 facets but don't shine correct. 
I also have a set of swarovski 7 facet rhinestones that are the correct color and shine. I guess I have to decide soon. I'm leaning toward the Swarovski's.


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## breid (May 8, 2008)

Beautiful work so far. Better than the originals. TOS comm is by far the best prop ever IMHO. I want to scratch build a few sometime in the distant future. I want to ask how did you solder the antenna, did you use a torch or iron?


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks.

For the antenna I used steel wire to hold the grid to the brass wire, then smeared flux paste where I wanted to solder, cut lengths of silver solder, laid 
it in place. Then used a torch. I used the raw flame, no tip, and heated it from behind. A word of warning, I tried to keep the solder to a minimum for looks. This caused the lid to come undone at a few places. You might go heavier on the solder.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Excellent work! :thumbsup:

Your soldering skills are remarkable.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I'm kind of stalled. I need a 2/56 tap and a #50 drill to set the screws in the mid-plate. I figured I could pick one up at any hardware store, but no luck.

I downloaded a high quality moire pattern from herocomm.com! I'm very happy with it!


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Need.......more........pictures!!!

Sorry, withdrawal. Did you find the tap. I didn't realize that was needed for the kit. Obviously, I have started mine yet. But I definitely want to attach the back with screws rather than glue. I hope to have a stop watch in there and if the workings needed tending, I don't want to have to break it open.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

breid said:


> TOS comm is by far the best prop ever IMHO.


I'd say it's a tie with the phaser 2. Well, maybe the comm has a slight edge. Love them both. Tricorder is a distant third.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Sorry guys, work has gotten in the way. 
The comm is mostly done. I don't have any new pics to post as I am away from home. I'll post when I'm home in a few days.

You can get the tap/drill set at micro-mark for a good price. I could not find it locally.

I ended up gluing the back shell on. The reason for this is I ground the mid plate a bit too much on one side by the hinge. I wanted to make sure I had good clearance for opening. The screw would have been at a slight angle. I did get the other 3 holes drilled. I will clip the screws just short of the head and glue them in place. I have no plans to make THIS comm into a hero, so the back will not need to come off.

Hmmm.... Phaser 2, funny you should say that. Maybe my next build.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

*Done!*

DONE!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Nice!

Might want to file that mid-plate in a little tighter.


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## breid (May 8, 2008)

Very very nice. Way better than the originals. What color jewels did you go with?


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## Bobj812 (Jun 15, 2009)

Very nicely done. Oh, to have had one of these as a kid....


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## Coffee Addict (Jan 24, 2010)

Good Job!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks for the kind words!

KUROK, I think it would look better with the mid plate a bit smaller but the kits maker said the stock mid plate size was accurate to one of the 10 comm's. I also did not have a grinder to trim it, and did not want to try it with my dremel.

breid, I went with the GAMMA comm from herocomm.com. Emerald AB, Light Siam, Siam rhinestones. I bought after market rhinestones of the correct size and color.

I've been playing with it all day!


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Nice! I really need to get mine out of the box and start. I really want to do the hero version, but am nervous about it.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

jheilman,

Are you a member of Trek Prop zone? They have a few build threads on making a hero. It seems the hardest part is finding the correct stopwatch.

Also anyone who has a Comm kit, I have a TON of swarovski rhinestones in the correct color and sizes to replicate almost all of the 10. I'm happy to share them. They have to be purchased in increments of 10 or 12 so no worries I have plenty. If anyone needs any drop me a PM.

Mark


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## Daikaiju1 (Apr 26, 2005)

That looks beautiful. well done indeed!


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