# Cheap and Easy Backdrops



## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

I'm getting further along with my scenic track. Part of the fun of a scenic track is photography (which just so happens to be one of my other hobbies). My shots, as well as the appearance of the track in general would improve so much with some backdrops. Nothing too complicated, just some vague rolling hills and sky. They can be pretty expensive to buy, especially for a large table. I've been thinking about buying some poster board and just having at it with some paint. I'm wondering what others here have done. Also, I worry about it adding so much height that it's difficult to reach the cars and track. I'd be interested in thoughts/experiences around this as well. Thanks!


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

My table walls are 6" MDF with an approximate 1/4" channel cut in the top (except in front of the drivers). The sidewalls of my table were built from 1x4s with 3/4 plywood top so the walls stick up no more than 2" above the table. However, I installed flush stanchions at evenly spaced intervals around the track that stick up about 4" above the side walls. These have slots cut it them that mate with the channel on the top of the table wall. This allows me to easily slide wall panels into the slots for my table side walls. For the regular side walls I use Plexiglas for the panels. Along the back where there is a room wall I extended the stanchions higher so I could install a backdrop. The backdrop is 1/8" masonite. Right now it's just painted light blue but I'm going to paint clouds and hills on it, and maybe add a little flocking to blend with the scenery. The fact that my table walls are modular panels makes the backdrop painting thing much easier. I can pop out the backdrop panel and paint it in my shop at my leisure. Having Plexiglas sidewalls is also very nice when you have a scenic'd track because you can enjoy the scenery whenever you are in the same room as the track. Something to consider for your fabulous track.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

AfxToo said:


> My table walls are 6" MDF with an approximate 1/4" channel cut in the top (except in front of the drivers). The sidewalls of my table were built from 1x4s with 3/4 plywood top so the walls stick up no more than 2" above the table. However, I installed flush stanchions at evenly spaced intervals around the track that stick up about 4" above the side walls. These have slots cut it them that mate with the channel on the top of the table wall. This allows me to easily slide wall panels into the slots for my table side walls. For the regular side walls I use Plexiglas for the panels. Along the back where there is a room wall I extended the stanchions higher so I could install a backdrop. The backdrop is 1/8" masonite. Right now it's just painted light blue but I'm going to paint clouds and hills on it, and maybe add a little flocking to blend with the scenery. The fact that my table walls are modular panels makes the backdrop painting thing much easier. I can pop out the backdrop panel and paint it in my shop at my leisure. Having Plexiglas sidewalls is also very nice when you have a scenic'd track because you can enjoy the scenery whenever you are in the same room as the track. Something to consider for your fabulous track.


Can you post a pic of this AFXToo?

I'm having trouble following the design of different pieces interacting with each other. I'm getting close to the stage where I need to put walls around my table, even if temporary, so I can race without fear of my dogs eating a table-leaving-deslot.

I like the plexiglass idea, and would like to see how you are incorporating that.

Thanks.

Edit: I don't mean to hijack the thread from the backdrop topic.


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## AZSlot Racer (Dec 5, 2007)

Since photography is one of your hobbies (I'm a part time motorsports photographer) why not shoot some lanscape shots, photoshop them together and have them printed at your local printer. Just a thought might be just as expensive but it would be cool to have your own stuff as a backdrop.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

> Can you post a pic of this AFXToo?


Posted some construction photos of the wall system without the wall panels in place. Pardon the mess.


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

A backdrop is almost a must for a realistic looking track, especially in photos. I'm sure most of you have seen the old one behind my track when it was at the old house. I actually garbage picked that one. 

I know this is about cheap and easy but I thought I'd chime in on the thought of having a print shop do something for you. I am fortunate to have access to a 60" color plotter so I combed through my Corel clip art and the internet for sky backdrops to stretch/mirror to fit a long wall and printed one out for a club members track a few years ago. Here is what it looked like on Eddie's unfinished track:



















I have a couple of stretched and mirrored backdrop image files ready for printing if anyone wants them. Some are kind of large in file size so I can put them on my server for dowloading and perhaps you could get them done at Kinkos or another commercial print shop.


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

*Background check*

Here are some backdrops for printing. Some need adjustments. You should be able to have someone print these on a large scale printer for a reasonable price. You could even do vinyl like a banner. -Scott


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

BTW AFXToo- your track looks great. And the wall system is looking like the craftsmanship I'd expect from you. :thumbsup:


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## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

The model railroad guys often paint backdrops on thin particle board. There's a lot of info on backdrops if you look around on the web.

Just another option.

-- Bill


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

This is all EXCELLENT! Thanks for the ideas and feedback. And that's some real fine carpentry on your system, AFXToo.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks for the pics of your wall set-up AFXToo. I'm going to seriously consider plexiglass as wall panels also.

I'm wondering what the benefit is in having them drop-in removable. I can tell a lot of work went into that design. I don't have a table saw to make those grooves, so I might go fixed-mounted, but not sure what I lose in doing so.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Having the removable walls makes it easier for me to work on the track and scenery, which will be an ongoing thing over the years as I incorporate structures, grandstands, parking lots, pits, etc. 

Someone mentioned on another thread about table size and height and how the side walls also factor into your ability to reach across the table. This is absolutely correct. My table is on the tall side, 36" off the floor, so being able to remove the walls gives me better reach for working on the scenery and doing track maintenance. 

I could see removable walls having some interesting applications for organized racing too. If you use very inexpensive Masonite for you walls you could offer to decorate the walls of your track _for each specific race_ using advertising and logos from your race sponsors. Maybe even have the name of the specific race on one of the panels, kind of like they decorate the infield of NASCAR races for the race name and sponsor. I think it would be kind of fun to show up at a race and see the table festooned with sponsor decals and logos and stuff just for that race, and then see it changed for the next race at the same track. If you post pictures of the decorated track online after the race, the sponsors get some much needed advertising. If you supply the wall panel dimensions to the sponsors, maybe they would even ship you the panels already decked out with what the sponsor wants to display. I'd imagine this model would work very well for some of the bigger and more well attended races, like the Fray and the various national level races. 

You could also do a 2-sided backdrop (summer colors on one side and fall colors on the other) and periodically flip it over for a change of scenery. 

Possibilities aplenty.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

I also like the idea of movable walls for photography purposes; you want to get down low for the pics to look realistic.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

*Easy, cheap and vague*

Darn, what happened to my images? I'll try this one again.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

*Cheap, Easy (and Vague) - Second Try*



Peacefield said:


> ...I'm wondering what others here have done... Nothing too complicated, just some vague rolling hills and sky.


This method is about as cheap and easy as they come. The photo shows my "proof of concept" piece, the first time I ever did it. I did a couple of practices for the sky fade and clouds and then this one - all in less than an hour, so it's quick and the cost is almost nothing, especially if you use fadeless bulletin board paper. It's sold off a roll for pennies a foot, about 30" wide at good art supply stores or education supply stores. Cut it down to a height you think would look good (mine is 7"), and start with a couple of two-foot lengths for practice. You definitely need to get the feel of it before starting on the final backdrop.

For permanent installation, you can paint a more solid sheet material flat sky blue, People advise texture-free flat latex paint applied with a smooth roller.

Look at the graphic diagram and follow along with the lettered stages.
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A. Get some thin, matte sky-blue material. Look at the sky for reference, and don't go for too dark a color.

B. Spray flat white paint (I used Krylon white primer) along the bottom edge from far away enough that it fogs the sheet, letting the blue show through, and fades out to blue perhaps halfway up. [Because the sky is lighter near the horizon.]

C. Cut (or tear) ragged cloud-like shapes from a manila folder, thin posterboard, or similar semi-stiff thin stuff. Make several different patterns in different sizes.

D. Angle the cloud stencil, with the top part of the cutout about half an inch off the surface, and the bottom part angled upward. Aim above the top of the cloud shape and spray the flat white lightly from a distance to fog on the cloud shapes. Do it lighter than you think - you should never get to pure white. Do not spray above the whole cutout, just above the middle third or so. The white should be strongest at the top, and fade into the background shade of blue/white near the bottom. Try this a couple of times on scrap material for practice. Spray, several clouds with different stencils - don't worry overlapping them. You can turn the stencils over for a different shape, or rotate them or use just parts of the same stencil.

E. Cut a gentle undulating line for the rolling-hills horizon line stencil, from brown wrapping paper, wax paper, or anything else that comes in a long roll. Lay it directly on the paper an inch or two from the bottom and lightly spray a green color, similar to your groundwork color on the layout. Make it stronger toward the bottom, but don't let it get solid. The background blue-white should show through somewhat to simulate "atmospheric perspective," the tendency of more distant objects to look lighter and have lower contrast. If you get it too dark, hit it with a mist of light tan or white.

F. Cut some hill flats from any thin, stiff material. Don't make them too steep. Spray them solidly with your groundwork green paint. You can barely mist them in places with light tan for variation. Glue something to the back so they'll stand up while you fiddle with position. A short scrap of 1/4" square balsa at the base works.

G. Tack the sky background to the wall, going down to, or behind the top surface of the layout. 

H. Stand the hill-flats up slightly in front of the backdrop, overlapping, and arrange so that the horizon line is generally above them, but dips down behind them occasionally.

I. Disguise the artificial straight line at the hill bases with lichen moss bushes, bunched foam ground cover, rocks, billboards, fences, building flats or whatever else is handy.
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One advantage (I think) of this method is that the background is vague and generalized and fits better with the modeling. I think too detailed, or photo-realistic, or spectacular a backdrop detracts from the layout by pulling attention away from the main point of the action. The backdrop should provide a setting and a sense of space for the models, not compete with them. 

One disadvantage for you, PF, is that it doesn't let you use your photography.

Since I only do temporary layouts, I plan to use the paper or blue thin posterboard for the final. I don't know how the paper would fare on a permanent layout. If you glue paper down, it's likely to expand and make distracting little wrinkles when the humidity changes, so my advice is to stick it along the top with short pieces of double-sided tape and let it hang like a curtain, free to expand and contract a bit. I think most people would prefer to paint the existing wall surface, or some more permanent sheet material. One scenery site advocates long strips of the thin countertop laminate stuff, with the back side used for the backdrop painting. Still, you can't beat the paper for price and if it doesn't wear well, the method is easy enough to take down and do over.

-- D


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

D, excellent tutorial on backdrops! Right on. Interestingly, I'm right in the middle of implementing the exact technique you are describing with the exception of the spray technique. I'm using a sponge based technique to avoid spraying. So far, so good.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Thats just scary!

Thanx for taking the time D. Greatly appreciated and book marked.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

*Update*

An update on this thread.

On one of my rare ventures into civilization, I stopped in at Teacher's Heaven, an education supply store. They had two types of bulletin board paper in a variety of colors. The Fadeless brand was $1.50 a yard. There was also a nameless cheaper brand for 55 cents a yard, off a roll 36" wide. That's half a buck for nine feet of 12" high sky. Don't want any seams? Pay a little bit extra and just get as many feet of it as you need in one long piece up to 3' in height.

I liked the look of the cheaper blue paper. It was less intense than the electric-aqua Fadeless, and had a very slight mottling that already looked like high, thin clouds. I asked about fading, and the lady said that if you leave the cheap stuff out in the sun for a day, it will fade, but they've had the paper up in store displays under bright fluorescent lighting for a year with no noticeable fading. 

The cheapo stuff also comes in a medium muted green with very light mottling, that has potential for background hill-flats or even for inexpensive, disposable ground cover for temporary setups.

-- D


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Really gives a layout a new perspective. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## SCJ (Jul 15, 1999)

While I have never purchased from this site for those that don't want to do it themselves.........www.backdropwarehouse.com, prices start at $17.

I almost forgot, they have a map so you can pick specific location in the country for your design, West, Mtns. East foot hills etc. AND they will trun any photo into a backdrop.

-------------------------
www.SlotCarJohnnies.com


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

DIY The DO IT Yourself Network has a few hobby shows, one is called "Workin' On the Railroad. Last weeks show had a segment on how to make backdrops using stencils and some can spray paint.

The sky, clouds, mountains and city was amazing and showed just how simple this could be done.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hb_collections/article/0,2033,DIY_13874_4951712,00.html

I couldn't find any video on there site, if you get this channel check it out sometime.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Here's a test drive of the backdrop I'm working on. This is all done with latex, no-spray paint techniques. This is one panel of three, with the whole backdrop being 10 ft x 2 ft. I'm amazed at how a backdrop anchors the layout and makes the part of the track with a backdrop feel like a diorama. By the way, the short white wall in the back is the track table wall. The top of the wall has a groove that the backdrop sits in. 

Before:









After:









(More views in photo album)


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

That's the look I want for mine. The backdrop really finishes it off. That's some excellent work. A nice collection of AW GT40's, too!


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Very nice!

At first pass, I thought the front row of painted hills was part of your actual landscaping. Well done!


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