# My Movie & First Season 1/128 Seaview



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I'm a little over anxious here- the kit doesn't arrive until Dec 1, but *I'm looking forward to this like no other.* 
Until now, my favourite builds have been the Vipers & Galactica from the original series, and of course my Airwolf. 
















I have a PL Jupiter 2 half-finished in a box that I will certainly finish sans landing gear someday soon (no pix, it's in a box), I finished a Moebius Robot (no lighting or stuff)








, and I scratched a Freedom shuttle from "Armageddon,"








but for some reason *the 8 Window Seaview has me totally fixated*. My 1/350 Moebius 4 to 8 window conversion left me _less than ecstatic_.








Winning the 1/128 kit on the bay with just 2 bids was unexpected. Soon I will get to work. This will no doubt be my most amazing challenge. 

In the meantime while I wait for it,
Question #1: Have you _done_ your most amazing kit, or is it to come? 
Question #2 Pictures please?


----------



## krlee (Oct 23, 2016)

This is my most amazing model so far:










The Jupiter 2 is from Moebius, the figures are from Tamiya and the Jeep is Testors, everything else is scratch built.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I've never done anything THAT amazing.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The kit arrives Monday, and work will commence immediately. I just happen to have vacation this week so that's my window for _the bulk_ of this build. It should be completed within two weeks (no more dragging it out for months- I'm too driven at this point).
_*He said, and then it took longer *anyway*, heh heh*_
After careful research (without actually having seen the kit in person) I will go one of two ways- modify the front end side bulges slightly or go basically OOTB. If I modify it I'll also need to adjust the beams on the inside on the left & right as well. I'm honestly hoping that I'll decide it's fine for me as-is (optimistic), but I won't know until Monday. I also purchased a Paragrafix photo-etch sheet to make it a lot nicer in either case. No lighting. Some weathering though- at this scale not to would make it look too clean.
In addition, the first season Seaview (as seen on the colour pilot ep) had the orange-reddish shag carpets in the observation lower deck torn out (simple gray floor) & the walls painted a light chocolate brown covering the fake wood (as seen on our parent's station wagons of the era, LOL!). I'll be going with that.

More in 2 days.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Kit just arrived a half hour ago! My GOD this baby is BIG! 
First dry fit:










































Hmmmm.... it's REALLY good... but there IS a bulge there. Not visible from all angles, but I have to think about this for a few minutes.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I've identified the worst of the bulge, and also washed it. Wow, it was 1972 all over again, a Seaview in the tub. :grin2:
Anyway, I'll back up the target area before I sand it- hopefully I will still be able to use the kit windows, if not, as we say on Earth, c'est la vie. I'll just make new ones.

















The windows are not _perfectly_ shaped, but so darn close (IMHO) that I don't feel the need to complicate my life for weeks changing them.

But who knows?

Gluing has begun. Holy crap Batman, I'm running out of glue!!!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I backed up the target area & sanded the most egregious bulges.


















So this is basically it now. If I really went nuts getting _the precise_ nose shape & window configuration, then the_ too-thick body_ would drive me crazy. So either I tear the model apart & completely rebuild it for months (not gonna happen), or be happy with a pretty good representation. 
I choose the fun of this kit over the torture.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Nearly all the major gluing is done (the rear deck needed some 'assistance' to glue into the tail- not a perfect fit), and yeah, I tweaked the nose a bit more. I'm having more fun with this kit than I've had in a LONG time!


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice work so far Chris! I'm a big fan of VTTBOTS. Who can ever forget this memorable scene from season one...

Joking around by trekriffic, on Flickr

Clowning around by trekriffic, on Flickr

richard-basehart-13 by trekriffic, on Flickr


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

:grin2:


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I recommend that you enjoy the build, imperfections and all, considering how gigantic it is. The interior demands a lighting kit, and I think Randy still sells those through his VooDooFX website. If you're aren't a wiring wizard (like me), an electrical repairman can assemble all of the wiring for you within a half hour, as long as you provide him the measurements needed for the tailfin lamps.
P.S. I just checked, and he still has them available for $49.99 + shipping.
The link is 
http://www.voodoofx.com/fiberfx.htm


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I agree with Seaview, Just take your time and enjoy the build. I redone the 4 windrow version a few years back,it took a lot of time and work,but was happy on how it turned out. The sanding you done made the nose look a lot better. when you sand a area make sure that it blends with the areas all around. What you don,t want is any sanded flat area,s Keep up the great work,and take your time! I will keep watching! Nice job!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> The interior demands a lighting kit


Sorry man, that was never the plan. I've lit stuff before and it takes all the fun out of the build for me. And this is for FUN!



subtoair said:


> I agree with Seaview, Just take your time and enjoy the build.
> I will keep watching! Nice job!


Thanks!
I was doing the nose seams and I decided to add the faint 'ridge' you can almost not see on the bigger Seaviews (taken without flash here since that makes it disappear):


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, this is how dopey I am... the two standing figures were duplicates, so I took the head off a sitting figure and a leg too (the arm I cut to use off was swallowed by the damn carpet monster) & sanded the feet as well so I'd have a standing Nelson & Crane... and I'm not even gonna light the thing! 

















Poor sitting guy...


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Actually, you're probably doing yourself a favor by not lighting it; I have no way of replacing the battery other than breaking it apart (I should've made an opening Kelson hatch for the Diving bell), and so therefore rarely, if ever, turn on the lights to spare the battery from dying (it's a 10-year Smoke Detector battery). I concealed the push button power switch inside the missile silo and keep the lid shut the rest of the time.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Lighting anything really telescopes a build for me- a lot of kits look great with it but I would like to finish them much earlier.

Wish I had one of these big Seaview kits- they look wonderful!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Richard Baker said:


> Lighting anything really telescopes a build for me- a lot of kits look great with it but I would like to finish them much earlier.
> 
> Wish I had one of these big Seaview kits- they look wonderful!


They are a LOT of fun, man! :grin2:

I just (as in minutes ago) finished the observation deck. That was all I did today. I'm waiting for the Paragrafix limber covers. The paint job is based off the colour first season first episode, so yeah, no orange shag rug. It was a fairly delicate operation- the beams are quite thin & take some attention... but after I painted it all I was test fitting the beam/upper floor assembly (had to file a tiny bit on the right side center connection point) and it clicked nicely into place, and quite firmly as well. Wow, no gluing necessary! Snap-tite! An unexpected extra!
So, I know it's very basic-looking; I fudged some detail, but it all won't be very visible without lighting or upgraded windows. Still, I'm happy.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

That's turning out very nice. If you wanted more color you could consider painting a couple of those figures in the standard red or blue jumpsuits. Or the less common 'standard navy' uniform. Dark blue denim pants and light blue shirt. Both were seen over the course of the series.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> That's turning out very nice. If you wanted more color you could consider painting a couple of those figures in the standard red or blue jumpsuits. Or the less common 'standard navy' uniform. Dark blue denim pants and light blue shirt. Both were seen over the course of the series.


Ha! Too late now bro! Besides, grunts are in engineering dontcha know!:jest:

Getting SO excited here....


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Well, OK, but dig out the DVDs and watch a few first season episodes. You'll often see some level of officer or noncom (in the khakis) sitting at the nominal control desk, but you'll also find jumpsuit guys posted to watch out the winders.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Well, OK, but dig out the DVDs and watch a few first season episodes. You'll often see some level of officer or noncom (in the khakis) sitting at the nominal control desk, but you'll also find jumpsuit guys posted to watch out the winders.


Yeah, I've been watchin' them. I'd change a couple if it would be visible...
Hey! Is Paul L. okay? I'd have expected him to chime in here to tell me this build is a waste of time in terms of pure accuracy... and he'd actually be right, but here I am, having fun with this big build!:grin2:
If a better kit comes along I will be first in line.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I would like see something that is probably impossible, a Seaview kit that was designed to allow you to build either the 8 window or the 4 window versions. It's probably impossible, maybe, MAYBE if they had the strakes on the sides (running from manta fins to propulsion nacelles) as separate pieces, with 'drill the mount holes' dimples in the hull for each version. 

maybe it just wouldn't work, becoming a messy Frankenstein monster of a mashup. 

Anyway, a new tool Seaview would always be welcome.


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> I backed up the target area & sanded the most egregious bulges.


Hi Chris,

It's hard to tell from just a photo, but it looks like you didn't have to sand too deeply. IIRC the hull is 1/8" - any idea what the max amount of hull thickness was that you had to remove?



Chrisisall said:


> ...then the_ too-thick body_ would drive me crazy.


When you say "too-thick body" are you referring to the width at the 'knuckle'?

Thanks for any info,

Tom


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> It's hard to tell from just a photo, but it looks like you didn't have to sand too deeply. IIRC the hull is 1/8" - any idea what the max amount of hull thickness was that you had to remove?


After sanding, the thinnest spots (near upper outer windows) are about 1mm. I removed the back up as it really wasn't necessary and also interfered with the interior placement.


> When you say "too-thick body" are you referring to the width at the 'knuckle'?


The whole body in general is too big in width.


----------



## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Even without lighting that section behind the windows will look great!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Richard Baker said:


> Even without lighting that section behind the windows will look great!


I can always shine a flashlight in to see!:grin2:

I ripped open the limber hole areas in prep for the Paragrafix limber hole covers I received today. Took for freakin' ever with just an _*Exacto knife*_. Santa, I want a dremel for Christmas; I been reasonably good...


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> After sanding, the thinnest spots (near upper outer windows) are about 1mm.


So that would be about 2/3 of the total thickness? That's good news - I thought it would require removing pretty much the entire thickness.



Chrisisall said:


> The whole body in general is too big in width.


Of course I haven't made any measurements in almost 3 years, but I thought they got that right...

Thanks for the feedback,

Tom


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> So that would be about 2/3 of the total thickness? That's good news - I thought it would require removing pretty much the entire thickness.


To do it 100% right you'd have to go deeper, yeah. Then mess with the interior a LOT. I'm in this for the fun of it, not precise accuracy. 2/3 is good enough for me.:laugh:


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> To do it 100% right you'd have to go deeper, yeah. Then mess with the interior a LOT. I'm in this for the fun of it, not precise accuracy. 2/3 is good enough for me.:laugh:


So you agree that almost the entire thickness would have to be removed at the top of the upper outer windows to get it just right?

I imagine I'll end up doing just what you have done. I can't really tell from the photo, but I'll bet what you have done is a noticeable improvement over the original. Do you agree?

Again, thanks for the info!

Tom


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chris,

Is the white circle above the windows extending up to the deck just putty seam work, or did you build up that area? Also, is the centerline "ridge" between the windows a putty buildup also?

Thanks for any info,

Tom


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> So you agree that almost the entire thickness would have to be removed at the top of the upper outer windows to get it just right?


To get the nose 100% correct you'd have to go about a mm below where I stopped. But then you'd have to cut clear styrene windows to fit the new curve and severely adjust the interior's outer walls and beams... also the too-big hull diameter would probably be even more noticeable... 
I just got the nose to a place I personally am comfortable with. :grin2:



taneal1 said:


> Is the white circle above the windows extending up to the deck just putty seam work, or did you build up that area? Also, is the centerline "ridge" between the windows a putty buildup also?


Yes to both. The build up is very slight though (like 1mm).


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> To get the nose 100% correct you'd have to go about a mm below where I stopped. But then you'd have to cut clear styrene windows to fit the new curve and severely adjust the interior's outer walls and beams... also the too-big hull diameter would probably be even more noticeable...
> I just got the nose to a place I personally am comfortable with. :grin2:


You have undoubtedly made the right decision, and I will most likely do the same thing. My intent was to confirm that we are in agreement as to how much hull needed to be removed. This gives me more confidence that my *other* corrections to the nose are at least reasonably accurate.

Thanks for the info, and your boat is looking mighty fine!

Tom


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Thanks for the info, and your boat is looking mighty fine!


Lookin' better now...










I'll add the tiny bits on the sail just before I prime & paint on Monday, then glue in the lower nose & seal the seams, paint the bottom, add the lights and cage & I'm done.
:woohoo:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just another picture. I began to sand seams but I forgot that a model four times the size of what I usually work on uses four times the glue and will take nearly four times the time to be perfectly & solidly sand-able...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just taking care of the seam in the hull center today, added the tie rods that I scratched yesterday, as well as the underside drain holes provided on the Paragrafix sheet.










Gotta say, Moebius (Gary) did a great job here. From a pure enjoyment POV this kit has been a dream to this point. All kits have their issues, but this one has far, FAR less than most.

One thing most of these big Seaview builds I've seen have in common is the pristine just-out-of-drydock nature to them. I intend to make this one look as close to a filming miniature as possible... like something that has spent time in a tank, uh, I mean the open SEA!


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Hi Chris,

I know you don't want to mess with the windows (a problem in itself) due to the effect it would have on the interior. But I am trying to get a more confident 'feel' for which kit parts aren't an 'exact' match with the miniatures. Would you agree that in the area of the center 4 windows the hull should be slightly flatter than the kit nose?

If true, it's doubtful that I could do anything significant to 'fix' this issue, but the first step is to always verify whether or not a problem exists. Also, it may eventually benefit someone else...

Thanks for any thoughts,

Tom


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Would you agree


Tom, you keep asking if I'll agree to stuff... I'm basically a _dis_agreeable type.
Look, the body is a _little_ bit too thick, the sail is a _little_ bit too high and the windows are set on a _little_ too much of a lateral curve. Still, all in all it's a great kit.:thumbsup:


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Tom, you keep asking if I'll agree to stuff... I'm basically a _dis_agreeable type.
> Look, the body is a _little_ bit too thick, the sail is a _little_ bit too high and the windows are set on a _little_ too much of a lateral curve. Still, all in all it's a great kit.:thumbsup:


I think it's a great kit, and I'm not knocking it at all so you don't have to defend it. Regarding the windows I did say "slightly" too curved and you say a "little" too much. That sounds like an agreement to me, so I don't understand why my asking if you "agree" is a problem. Additionally, I didn't think the sail or the body are off, and you do, so I'm not nitpicking it any more than you are.

I think it's the most accurate SV available. But I do think some parts are a *little* bit off, and I'd like to identify which ones and by how much so I can assess the problem of improving them. I don't have the time to do the work, so all I can do for the time being is document the differences in preparation for doing the work when I can.

If my questions are distressing you, or you think I'm knocking this kit, just say so and I'll stop asking.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> I don't have the time to do the work,


I just had a full week vacation, and I still couldn't finish it!:grin2:


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Chris, that's going to be another fabulous replica. I do very much admire the way you decide exactly what you want the model to be and you go after it and get it done. I have to start trying to do that. Maybe I'd actually get something finished. 

Taneal 1, I don't have the 8 window kit. After building the 4 window kit, I vowed never to build another one. I don't know how much of the 4 window kit was altered for the release of the 8 window kit, but the 4 window kit does have it's problems. Chief among them: the nose is the wrong shape, the windows aren't quite in the right place, the manta is the wrong shape, the FS bay is convex instead of cylindrical, the side keels or whatever they are are positioned a little too high (which means that the manta, the exhaust tubes, and the stabilizers are a little too high), the sail is too tall and the wrong shape, the hull's tail cone is very much the wrong shape, and the fat tail cone makes the prop tubes sit way too far apart and at the wrong angle, and the tail fins are the wrong shape. 

On the plus side of the 8 window, at least you don't have to worry about a convex FS bay, fill old windows and cut new ones, or patch in the sonar bulges. If you're an insane rivet counter type, the observation nose room is somewhat different between the movie set and the 1st season set, and the kit seems to be the 1st season version. But if they haven't altered the tail cone for this release, that's where the most noticeable problems will lie.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> I don't know how much of the 4 window kit was altered for the release of the 8 window kit, but the 4 window kit does have it's problems. Chief among them: the nose is the wrong shape, the windows aren't quite in the right place, the manta is the wrong shape, the FS bay is convex instead of cylindrical, the side keels or whatever they are are positioned a little too high (which means that the manta, the exhaust tubes, and the stabilizers are a little too high), the sail is too tall and the wrong shape, the hull's tail cone is very much the wrong shape, and *the fat tail cone makes the prop tubes sit way too far apart* and at the wrong angle, and the tail fins are the wrong shape.


Yeah, it's like that on the 8 window as well. A true rivet counter would need a month or two of free time to address all the little inaccuracies... being a moderate/nostalgic fan (as opposed to _rabid_ fan) of the movie & series, the kit is a good one for me, though. :thumbsup:


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Who says I don't get anything finished? To go back to your first post. I'm always proudest of the model I've just finished. And while these aren't absolutely finished yet, they will be in a couple of days.
This is my 1/144 Heller Breitling Orbiter, that I've been working on on and mostly off for the last ten years or so. I wanted to open up the little openings in the canopy, as they were on the real thing. That meant backing the openings, which meant so much sanding and filling and sanding. And then I experimented with various chrome coats, none of which I liked. This year I tried the chrome version of my favorite modelling paint, Duplicolor, on several of my scale flying model rockets and I liked it so much I used it here. Many coats of primer and then sanding before I got the surface prepped for the chrome. All I have left to do is decal all the solar panels on a little scratch built kite they used to power their instruments, and add the portholes, and she's done:
IMG_1783_zpsirxrbhfl.jpg Photo by jkirkphotos | Photobucket

(Highly recommend Dupli-Color on the big Seaview, if nothing else, at least the sandable filler primer. Great smooth coat, tough, sands beautifully, and a fraction of the cost of "modelling" paints.) 

And all my X33 needs is for the urathane on its base to dry, and some weathering, and it's done, too. 
IMG_1782_zpsbt9srqmc.jpg Photo by jkirkphotos | Photobucket
This kit goes back about 15 years. A nightmare in resin. I have no idea how much putty and sanding went into getting it smooth, and then this autumn I hit it with about 6 coats of sandable primer and used a scribing tool and a razor saw to clean up the all gaps between its tiles. Over and over again, till they were finally reasonably square and even. Printed the decals last week (even the decals took about 6 hours to draw??) and just got them on this morning. Sand the base and maybe get a couple more coats of urathane down and it's finally done, too!

Next up will be all the Galactica cockpits, from the old 80's Viper to the new Mk 7. And as soon as they're done, out of curiosity counted this morning that I have approx 936 bits of home-brew etch to add to the Moebius TOS Galactica over the Christmas break. Unless I take a Christmas break.

So I love watching you start a kit, build a kit, and finish a kit. It's a wonderful philosophy that I have to try and adopt. You're a real inspiration. Keep on keeping on! And I'll keep on watching! Great stuff, Chris!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> And all my X33 needs is for the urathane on its base to dry, and some weathering, and it's done, too.


Lookin' so sharp there!
Did Steve Austin crash in that?


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

That might have been the M2F2, tho' I think it was the HL-10. In either event, I've scratch built and etched cockpits for all of the manned X planes, which I've started from mostly vac formed kits, tho' there is a resin one here and there. And that will be my January (or February, if I goof off over Christmas), project - Finally! finish all my 1/72 X-planes. This is the ejection seat for the HL-10, so far:
IMG_1785_zpsecxgqxtl.jpg Photo by jkirkphotos | Photobucket

But, back to your Seaview!! Your loyal subjects are demanding More!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Impressive. Most impressive. Indeed you are powerful.... you know the rest. 

My seams are history, now I must prime!

















Big & little, together.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

My big mistake with my 1/350 Moebius 4 window to 8 window conversion was the idea that the model had to remain 14" long. I should have trashed the WHOLE nose, not just the front part. 13 & 1/2" would have been better IMO. Then my lame extension of the deck towards the nose wouldn't even have been necessary. And it would have been more accurate. What I accomplished with the shape of the nose was lost to the too-long original 4 window length, and the window placement (painted on) suffered for it as well.








Ah well, live & learn. 
Even with the obvious inaccuracies of this big 8 windower, it _already_ looks to me more like the Seaview I know from my childhood memory (and recent re-watch) of the first season. 
When done, I need to fabricate a monster costume out of garbage bags & s**t and hold it for a photo, heh heh!


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Newbie123 said:


> Taneal 1, I don't have the 8 window kit. After building the 4 window kit, I vowed never to build another one. I don't know how much of the 4 window kit was altered for the release of the 8 window kit


Hi there Newbie,

I don't have the 4 window kit, but you may be pleasantly surprised as to the improvements made on the 8W nose and sail. 



Newbie123 said:


> But if they haven't altered the tail cone for this release, that's where the most noticeable problems will lie.
> 
> The hull's tail cone is very much the wrong shape, and the fat tail cone makes the prop tubes sit way too far apart and at the wrong angle, and the tail fins are the wrong shape.


The tail cone on the 4W and 8W are identical. 

Is your tail cone assessment based on "eyeball" only? I'm unaware of any statements that the aft end was built differently than depicted on the Fox plans so I measured those against the model. 

IMO the tail cone is not too far off but the difference is noticeable. I share your belief that the shape of the tail cone causes problems with the propulsion tubes. When I mentioned the tail cone shape on another thread, I was told "It's close enough." and no one disagreed with this assessment.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> My big mistake with my 1/350 Moebius 4 window to 8 window conversion was the idea that the model had to remain 14" long. I should have trashed the WHOLE nose, not just the front part. 13 & 1/2" would have been better IMO. Then my lame extension of the deck towards the nose wouldn't even have been necessary. And it would have been more accurate. What I accomplished with the shape of the nose was lost to the too-long original 4 window length, and the window placement (painted on) suffered for it as well.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


*pssst*

Don't need all that. There was that episode where the crazed scientist somehow grows to giant size (without busting up the sealab he's using) and suddenly he can somehow breathe underwater, has grown nutty 'monster teeth' and can menace the 8 foot Seaview before they bust his a**. 

Great, now I need the episode name. One moment. Where is it....ah, OK, Second season. LEVIATHAN. 

Don't forget your '60s style fuzzy sweater.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Meh, 4 window version.
LOL


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

taneal1 said:


> IMO the tail cone is not too far off but the difference is noticeable. I share your belief that the shape of the tail cone causes problems with the propulsion tubes. When I mentioned the tail cone shape on another thread, I was told "It's close enough." and no one disagreed with this assessment.


It's your model. If it looks good to you, that's all that matters. It's a horrible, horrible lot of work to change the shapes of the tail cones. I was so burned out after my year-long 128 Seaview build that I didn't go near another model for a couple of years.

Hey, I liked that sweater. Could never figure out on all those people-growing-into-giants episodes how their clothes also turned into giant (and still neatly-pressed) clothes. Must have been some nifty new super-stretchy perma-press.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> It's your model. If it looks good to you, that's all that matters. It's a horrible, horrible lot of work to change the shapes of the tail cones. I was so burned out after my year-long 128 Seaview build that I didn't go near another model for a couple of years.


Obsessive rivet counting can be fun (my Colonial Vipers were like that) but not when it makes the model building not-enjoyable.


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Newbie123 said:


> It's a horrible, horrible lot of work to change the shapes of the tail cones. I was so burned out after my year-long 128 Seaview build that I didn't go near another model for a couple of years.


What changes did you make on your 4 window? Brief descriptions will suffice... :grin2:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I found a sitting guy in the box yesterday that escaped my view previously... and I'm done with the lower level set up, so I performed micro-surgery to make him from a sitting guy to a standing guy. I might add him to the upper level before I can do final paint & assemble this weekend.... *crosses fingers*


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I found a sitting guy in the box yesterday that escaped my view previously... and I'm done with the lower level set up, so I performed micro-surgery to make him from a sitting guy to a standing guy. I might add him to the upper level before I can do final paint & assemble this weekend.... *crosses fingers*


Kowalski needs representation. 

No, see, it's fate, it's destiny, you finding that 'lost' figure. It's not without precedent, Kowalski puttering around when the space alien, or the enemy spy, or the mysterious unseen force klonks him over the head and either taking over his body, just taking his shape or otherwise mysteriously moving around, would then proceed to do something to the control panel that's there, never seen before and never seen again. Sparks and fire may explode and the Seaview may rock side to side, but not always.

:devil:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

He will definitely be Kowalski.

Edit: Kowalski is in the sub!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Tiny update: While I'm waiting for this weekend's prime & painting op I decided to do something about this kit's slightly irritating curve at the top of the sail. I took off a mm or so mostly in the middle area, so now it's more or less fairly straight.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

All primed now. Not a _single_ seam to fix!!!! _WOW_! Paint tomorrow!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just got her home from my Son's place where he let me prime & paint- I REALLY like the colour I picked! Tamiya AS-31 Ocean Gray. It's very much like the 'official' colour of TS-66 IJN Gray but with just a hint of blue. Looks a bit underwatery to me. This is of course a flash pic, so it may look a bit washed out, but here it is so far.









Whoah, the flash made the forward limber holes look like they're closed! WTF? Sunlight pics work best for me...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Really liking that color. 

Funny thing? That bow interior with attached underside part sure looks a heck of a lot like the Flying Sub. I'm not sure if I should think of that as 'intentional by design' or 'super funny coincident' or some odd conflation of the two. 

(Picture a Flying Sub exactly that shape, complete with longer aft and more 'wing'. That would be quite interesting. )


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Steve H said:


> ...Funny thing? That bow interior with attached underside part sure looks a heck of a lot like the Flying Sub...


I thought the same thing when I saw that part in the lower right corner of the photo in post #57. "Is that...? Oh, no, it's the ventral bow plate." It _could_ make an interesting alternate version of the Flying Sub though.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Here we go, I cemented in the windows after dusting the interiour, then wiped off fingerprints from the inside (if any), and POW! I closed her up. No going back now- a little scary. But exciting too.










The pill box is to add leverage to the tape holding the rear part down. I had to sand down some of the slats in the lower section in the manta connections (slightly) to obtain the tightest fit. Also, one must start at the nose & work their way back; several test-fittings confirmed that.
From here it's just seam eradication, periscopes & detailing.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Tape off, no lifting! I am SO lovin' this!!!


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Looks good from here so far!

Y'know, I've seen the movie a number of times and I watched the show way back when, but I never really gave the Seaview much thought. After reading the various threads around here lately, I've really gained a greater appreciation for her.


----------



## oshkosh619 (Feb 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Tape off, no lifting! I am SO lovin' this!!!


Beautiful work Chris!! Top notch build and paint. When I finally get around to my Seaview, I hope she comes out as well. Thanks for the tips along the way!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

oshkosh619 said:


> Beautiful work Chris!!
> Thanks for the tips along the way!


Thanks! Here's another tip: this last set of seams is the worst. Just when I thought it'd be smooth sailing from here on in, more sanding ...!!! 
As The Robot said, "If it is worth doing, it is worth doing _well_.":grin2:


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I know you're past this stage by now but have you ever tried this plastic poly putty stuff? There's different brands, I've tried this 'Perfect Plastic Putty' stuff by Deluxe Materials.

I'm a convert. It's amazing stuff. It's a water soluble putty that air cures. Best of all, it stays workable (when moistened) for a good amount of time. maybe I've got a bad batch or I'm not doing it right but I've found it's a good idea to seal it with a primer (or Mr. Surfacer) before painting. 

Here's the magic. That seam you've got there? smear on the putty, get it worked into the seam, then gently, with a damp paper towel, wipe away the excess. You could do the same with a wet Q-tip. Let dry, I'd give it a day. Prime, paint, done. 

If you've done it right, no sanding. 

My experiment was one of my DST Communicators, that little hole on the side for the 'remove to try me' tag. One of the problems some had was puttying that hole without damaging the 'Krydex' texture. Poly putty, damp smooth, a black Gundam marker (didn't even prime it! It WAS a test after all  ) and you can't even tell that hole was ever there.

I wish I had this stuff 30 years ago.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> 'Perfect Plastic Putty' stuff by Deluxe Materials.


Great tip Steve!:thumbsup:

A shot into the windows.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I need to say how impressed I am by how clean and clear your windows turned out! Excellent masking work!


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Good call on that Tamiya AS-31 Ocean Gray; when the weather warms up, I think I'll re-paint my 1/128 Moebius "Movie" Seaview. Despite the imperfections, still a fine representation!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

A tip I found useful about Perfect Plastic Putty. Sometimes you'll get a tube where the putty seems too thick, like it's partially cured or dried out or something. What worked for me was to take a wooden stirrer stick or dowel (bamboo skewers for cooking kabobs work perfectly) and using the blunt end, poke it down into the tube and stir it around a little, break the putty up, work the inevitable air bubble out and then carefully pour in some water (an eyedropper is good but you can just pour it in from a small measuring cup or whatever, even hold the tube under a sink faucet), seal the tube and shake and massage it, work the water into the putty, then set the tube upright (cap side up, you'll need to support or brace it), let it rest for an hour or so (this lets the water to rise to the top) and carefully pour out excess water. Seal the tube again and knead and massage it. Now your putty is refreshed and a proper consistency. You can repeat this anytime you feel the putty is getting too thick to use. 

I DO NOT suggest using this putty if your model is going into the water.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> Good call on that Tamiya AS-31 Ocean Gray; when the weather warms up, I think I'll re-paint my 1/128 Moebius "Movie" Seaview. Despite the imperfections, still a fine representation!


I feel the same. 

I repainted the bottom (it was sunny & not too breezy just now, and it's my day off) and to my surprise, it came out okay! I taped up the windows to avoid paint particle blowback in case of a gust, but none happened.










Edit, okay it's dry now, and if you know where to look you can see the seam, but weathering will take care of that.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

ANNNND, I had to fill the teeny tiny gaps in the nose cage connection... 










Tomorrow I'll gently sand it & paint- not by spray, but by spraying the two colours into cups & finely brush painting them on the small areas. Thank goodness that Tamiya synthetic lacquer dries totally flat!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

No painting! I sanded it & filled other minor seams. It's so freezing here that I can't even spray into a cup without compromising the paint in the time it takes to be outside. Here's a picture of it waiting....










I'm so close to done though, and I have to say again, this is the most sheer fun I've ever had making a model.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I just got home and it's not too cold so I sprayed the AS-16 into a plastic cup outside & ran back in & gently gave her a super thin coat & waited a minute, then went back outside to do it again & finished with a regular coat... and now it's almost dry and it worked! No visible brush lines. This stuff is magic.










One more time with the AS-31 on the topside tomorrow or this weekend & it'll be virtually done!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Do you plan any weathering or outlining? I know it might be seen as 'not on the studio model' by some but I can't help but think a little outlining, especially those bow planes, would look nice.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Do you plan any weathering or outlining? I know it might be seen as 'not on the studio model' by some but I can't help but think a little outlining, especially those bow planes, would look nice.


I'm planning to put some slightly streaky marks on there because the sheer size of the model demands a not-too-squeaky-clean look. Also dirt here & there from sea shit & such.:grin2:


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I think that would work. I would tend to think the forward edge of the manta fins would be susceptible to 'foreign object damage' just from plowing thru the sea (we'll leave out the various sea mounts and other collisions  ) and so on.

But I wouldn't go too heavy, like you say, keep it light, because the Seaview is a classy lady, not a banged up freighter.


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

If you check out some of the scenes of the SSRN plowing along on the surface, she's surprisingly heavily weathered. Or at least water-stained and streaked. The bigger the model, it seems the more important some weathering becomes, so it isn't too monochromatic and dull. The USS Enterprise is another good example. Clean looks fine if not better in the smaller scales but a pristine 1/350 is just boring and oddly toy-like. A big toy, mind you. Have to be careful not to overdo weathering in any scale, but it adds interest and even color to a monochromatic shape. Just make sure you step back from your weathering (literally, a good 6 feet back) as you go. Impossible to tell the overall effect on a big model from up close. 

Beautiful job on this one, too, Chris!! You're getting quite the bathtub fleet!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> But I wouldn't go too heavy, like you say, keep it light, because the Seaview is a classy lady, not a banged up freighter.


Of course!


Newbie123 said:


> If you check out some of the scenes of the SSRN plowing along on the surface, she's surprisingly heavily weathered.


That's the *BIG* model!!:grin2:


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Yes, it's the 18'. I don't know of any instances of the 8' used on the surface but there probably were some. In the fog on The Phantom perhaps?

Boy, you replied even before I thought to add a couple things to my last one! 

Super build, I say again. Sure enjoying it. Merry Christmas, Chris! Is the finished model going under the tree? You certainly won't find a better present. Looking fwd to your New Year's projects!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> Super build, I say again. Sure enjoying it. Merry Christmas, Chris! Is the finished model going under the tree? You certainly won't find a better present.


It's my present to myself, certainly!
Uh-oh....










Yes, _thank you_.

Every Bot's a critic.


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Way off topic, but, Chris, you got me in a Voyage nostalgia mood. A couple times a year, I'll crack out an episode and watch it, random season but the episode I would have seen this particular week. The 2nd season episode right before Christmas would have been Monster From Outer Space, and there were some great camera angles that made it fun to watch. I thought I'd see what was in the special features that come afterward. The last couple fx shots are of the 8' heading for the bottom. I don't know if I'm not seeing it right, but I'll swear that the stbd side missile hatches are all arranged on a diagonal noticeably forward of the port side hatches. What??? I'm going see if I can spot this again one of these days in more of the fx footage. Not something I'd ever model, but... What???

Has to be some kind of weird underwater lens distortion:
http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/j...ts/Seaview 42_zpskgmx2yzw.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s1004.photobucket.com/user/j...ts/Seaview 43_zpsxr2yehcd.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Yeah, it HAS to be a lens thing...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

As always happens with me, the last part of a build slows to sub-light. I realized that when I sanded down the sail, I made it too flat...










So I rounded it just now, and broke into the thin areas that I had to epoxy putty up. So, inclement weather has actually been my friend in this instance, allowing me time to discover a detail I'd not have been at all happy to have missed...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I suspect the top of the sail is as maddeningly subtle and complex as the rest of the sub. 

This one is more tricky. Should there be something done about the deck area? I mean, should there be some form of anti-skid/slip patterning? Pierced steel? diamond tread? planks? I'm guessing the live action set piece and the 17 foot miniature would differ (because such things happened) and at the scale of the kit, realistically one might not actually be able to see anything other than a shading difference caused by paint over different materials or some such, but...

I dunno. That close-up of the sail work made that thought pop into my head.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Should there be something done about the deck area? I mean, should there be some form of anti-skid/slip patterning? Pierced steel? diamond tread?


In reality, I'd say yes. But as a model I'm not gonna complicate this build more than I already have.:wink2:


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Steve H said:


> This one is more tricky. Should there be something done about the deck area? I mean, should there be some form of anti-skid/slip patterning? Pierced steel? diamond tread? planks? I'm guessing the live action set piece and the 17 foot miniature would differ (because such things happened) and at the scale of the kit, realistically one might not actually be able to see anything other than a shading difference caused by paint over different materials or some such, but...


There's lots of room for detail on the 1/128. Thanks to Chris's thread, I'm all interested in the Seaview again and your question made me have to dig mine out of storage. For some reason, when I'm done a model, I lose all interest in it and it usually goes up into the attic. I really don't display many of them at all. But I love still having them around somewhere because they usually hold happy memories of the build. Haven't taken any "beauty" shots of my Seaview, and I doubt these qualify, either, but I took a couple new. The first shows several years of dust accumulation on the nose. It's like that everywhere. I blew some of the dust off (it seems to actually be embedded in the deck corrugations still) to get a couple snaps of some of the detail that you can add to the most visible parts of the ship.

And you're right: the full sized set doesn't measure the same as the miniature. You have to move the sail fwd about 1/2" to maintain the missile tube, handhold and hatch spacings on the full sized set, which is what I did. Looking at the photos, I realized just now that I haven't painted the handholds the red color they should be. So I guess my Seaview isn't finished yet after all. Oh boy!!?? And I'm pretty sure the batteries that light the thing up are still inside, and have been for 10 years or so? I think it might be time to re-visit my Seaview...

Seaview by Jay Kirk | Photobucket


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

NICE detail there, Jay!!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Do I see a very very subtle indication of weld seams on the sail or am I being horrible and noticing brush marks in the paint? I want to praise the weld seams.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Hey guys, I'm thinking I'm not gonna put the antenna in the traditional placing high up. I've been paying a lot of attention to in in recent episodes, and in many instances it's either real low touching the sail top (like this)








, or recessed partially or totally into the cavity. 
Which should I go for?


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Make it retractable. That way you have all bases covered. 

I tried to replicate the weld seams on the sail with an extra layer of primer on alternate panels. The model is just too big not to try to add as much interest as you can. 

Just thinking: there are probably three people in the English speaking world discussing the Seaview right now. Wishing you both a very Merry Christmas and a great New Year!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> Make it retractable. That way you have all bases covered.


 At this juncture that's not a viable option without extensive surgery. I'm in this one for fun, not headaches. I think I'll just place it low for 3 reasons:
1. To make it different from everyone else's.
2. So you can see it, but it isn't high up & ready to snap off at the first tail pass of one of my evil cats.
3. Because I like the first season more than the film.:grin2:


> I tried to replicate the weld seams on the sail with an extra layer of primer on alternate panels. The model is just too big not to try to add as much interest as you can.


 Yeah, I'll be painting little details for days after I add on the final parts.


> Just thinking: there are probably three people in the English speaking world discussing the Seaview right now. Wishing you both a very Merry Christmas and a great New Year!


_Merry Christmas & happy holidays to *all* the Seaview fans who've commented & lurked here!!
_


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Merry Christmas and the happiest of holidays to all, posting and lurking!

Chris, I'm not sure if it would be that complex to make the surface radar retractable. 

I think it could be done if you took a brass tube (interior diameter to fit the shaft of the radar antenna) and cut it so it went as deep into the Seaview as it had to to 'bottom out' and not fall out of the hole, extend the shaft of the radar a bit so you can have it at 'max extension' if you choose and it's not wobbling, hit it with some paint to create friction and done. No additional mods to the sub needed. 

Periscopes would be more of a problem. That would take some engineering. 

Newbie, I think you hit exactly the right level with your sail weld marks.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Chris, I'm not sure if it would be that complex to make the surface radar retractable.
> 
> I think it could be done if you took a brass tube (interior diameter to fit the shaft of the radar antenna) and cut it so it went as deep into the Seaview as it had to to 'bottom out' and not fall out of the hole, extend the shaft of the radar a bit so you can have it at 'max extension' if you choose and it's not wobbling, hit it with some paint to create friction and done. No additional mods to the sub needed.


You just HAD to give me ideas. 
:surprise:

Now I have to try that.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> You just HAD to give me ideas.
> :surprise:
> 
> Now I have to try that.


Well, before you widen the hole for the radar you might want to make sure you can find a brass tube that works right, and maybe another one that fits inside as the new or additional mast for the radar antenna.

You know, I'll just shut up now because I'm sure my awkwardly worded comment blossomed into a full solution in your mind, you'll figure it out if it works


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Well, before you widen the hole for the radar you might want to make sure you can find a brass tube that works right, and maybe another one that fits inside as the new or additional mast for the radar antenna.
> 
> You know, I'll just shut up now because I'm sure my awkwardly worded comment blossomed into a full solution in your mind, you'll figure it out if it works


Ha! I found a plastic tube lying around in my crap pile that's just the right thickness! It's a done deal- tomorrow I'll sink it in as per your fine suggestion. I'll super gel glue it in (gives me a few seconds to make sure it's straight) then I'll be able to position the antenna variably. Thanks so much Steve. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
And you too Newbie123!

It's a Harriman Christmas for me!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

My only concern about a plastic tube is somehow, in some way, the plastics may fuse due to chemical interaction or some other nonsense. Brass and plastic, nothing could happen unless you used super glue. 

but that's me. I tended to use a lot of brass tube in my prop building days.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> My only concern about a plastic tube is somehow, in some way, the plastics may fuse due to chemical interaction or some other nonsense. Brass and plastic, nothing could happen unless you used super glue.
> 
> but that's me. I tended to use a lot of brass tube in my prop building days.


The tube I found is a poly-whatever-you-call-it, not styrene. The two should not chemically interact at all. But thanks for the possible warning! It means U care.:x


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Happy Hallowthanksmasyear! Yep, that just about covers it all.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> The tube I found is a poly-whatever-you-call-it, not styrene. The two should not chemically interact at all. But thanks for the possible warning! It means U care.:x


Well of course I care! I'd really hate to make a casual suggestion, have you act on it and come to regret it!

I just want to help in what little ways I can. 

I mean, it's not like I was suggesting installing motors to raise and lower everything, and spin the dish, and put working hinges on all the hatches and a full interior inside the sail and so on... 

(actually, I don't think we EVER saw inside the sail. Now that I think about it, not even Fred Barr's various blueprints ever addressed what all goes on inside the sail. Hm.)


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Chris, you'll need 3 tubes: the tube that will be the actual mast, the tube the mast will slip into, and a sleeve for the tube the mast will slip into. All need to fit snugly. The mast tube should be aluminum, as you don't want to paint anything that slides against something, as the paint will all scrape off. The tube that the mast slides into should be metal, as you may want to deform it ever so slightly to keep the mast snug. And you'll want a styrene tube to fit the mast sleeve tube into. 

I'm assuming that you're not removing the sail to fit a radar mast so you need to secure the mast tube from above. That's why you'll need the styrene tube. Drill a hole that matches the styrene tube in the sail centered on the mast. Plug the styrene tube about 1 - 2 cm from the bottom with something, doesn't matter what but it should be a tight plug. Fill the bottom of the tube with a couple drops of something slow setting, like a thick ca or a 5 minute epoxy. You don't want it running up into the top of the tube or that may mess up the fit of the metal tube. In addition, wet down the bottom of the styrene tube (not the outside) with a slower acting styrene cement (you want every bond you can get). Insert it through the hole in the sail until its pressed against the deck inside the sail. Get it as square as you can by moving around the top 8" of the styrene tube that's sticking out of the top of the sail. Last thing you want is a crooked mast. And that's why you want slower acting cements. With luck they'll run out the bottom of the tube and should give you a strong joint. Once it's square, don't touch it for a couple of hours, except to check it after a couple minutes to make sure gremlins haven't moved it. They do, you know. After you think it's been enough time to truly cure (overnight?) give the top end of the tube some gentle flexes to make sure the bottom is cemented firmly. If it isn't just pull the whole thing out and try again. It'll be a little tough to trim inside the mast recess but snip off the long end and then go slowly and carefully with the stump. Now you can slide in the snugged-up metal sleeve - it only has to be an inch or so long - with bit of styrene cement smeared around its bottom end (that'll soften the styrene just enough to give a pretty good grip on the metal) (superglue will lock it into place too instantly) - and Bob's you uncle! as they say at this time of year.

But the important part of all of this is that structural styrene tube. It holds everything in place and square, top And bottom.


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Only a crazy person would do something like that. And I'm referring to Teslabe who motorized his radar mast. 
As for the interior of the sail, you can't see anything through that tiny bridge hatch anyway, except for a ladder:
SeaviewAugust3-1.jpg Photo by jkirkphotos | Photobucket



Steve H said:


> Well of course I care! I'd really hate to make a casual suggestion, have you act on it and come to regret it!
> 
> I just want to help in what little ways I can.
> 
> ...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I sank the tube in with epoxy putty on the bottom end & carefully positioned it so it was straight, and the styrene rod I connected the antenna to slides right in. 


















Now just a bit of cosmetic work to blend it in...


----------



## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Beauty!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Enamel paint to fill the seam.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I think that's going to work


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> I think that's going to work


Just needs one coat of primer on the rod to make it slide in a _little_ tighter.:grin2:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, the enamel dried, but left the seams showing badly. I can't really sand in there, so I cut a piece as a false floor out of 040 super thin styrene to hide it. Worked well!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

An aside: 
The first season eps are SO good. I hadn't seen these in a long time & bought them to further study the 8 window Seaview when I was preparing to build my 1/350 version last August. And I've been dragging it out... once I finish, there won't be any new 8-window eps! In 3 episodes I will be done.
My favourite eps so far are (no particular order):
Eleven Days To Zero (love the snow scenes & the COLOUR!)
The Sky Is Falling (excellent SF reminiscent of Day The Earth Stood Still) 
Submarine Sunk Here (perfection.)
The Human Computer (Hmmm, inspiration for The Ultimate Computer?)
The Saboteur 
The Enemies...

Thoughts?


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I love all of the first season episodes with the possible exception of "The Indestructible Man"; great story and mood, suitable for a Halloween viewing, but the robot was too '50's-ish. The first half of the second season is just as enjoyable as the entire first.


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Steve H said:


> ...(actually, I don't think we EVER saw inside the sail. Now that I think about it, not even Fred Barr's various blueprints ever addressed what all goes on inside the sail. Hm.)


What happens inside the sail _stays_ inside the sail.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Today I put it all together. Paint & glue are drying. I am smiling. More touch up & detailing will ensue, but it's basically done. Beauty pix in a bit, after the hollidays... man this was fun to do.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

very very very pretty!


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Good work!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Good work!


Thanks!

Uh-oh, under the ice flow!!!:surprise:










IMO the original 8 window Seaview was the best designed vehicle in any Irwin Allen production. The Jupiter 2 was more fun & glitzy, but where is the room for the lower deck (not to mention the fusion core)? The Spindrift was extremely cool, but over 3/4 of the ship was pilot & passenger space... howz THAT work? 
That Seaview seemed absolutely _real_ to me, then & now!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Big change- I had just painted the inside of the sail observation area white & was preparing to detail it & paint the hatch and other doors a slightly different gray when I saw it from across the room & realized that that's NOT the way I see it on the show. So I just now grayed it back, and YEAH, THAT'S how it looked!
So, apart from filling in the lower stand holes later when I make a proper display support, she's done! 

*Merry Seaview everyone!*









Edit: I just filled them in- they were ruining the fine lines of the ship...










Painting that will be a breeze after X-Mas.

Edit #2: Okay, I couldn't wait...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

The Seaview mostly works, and most consistently in the first season. As time progressed it, too, suffered from the 'too big on the inside' problem (I mean, those darn ventilation shafts!) but that's mainly on the lack of imagination of a staff that couldn't be bothered to see the potential and excitement of working within a fixed, constrained area. 

The Gemini XII was very well designed as a disposable shell designed to transport the Robinsons and some gear. The transformation to Jupiter II, it was crazy time. 

Spindrift, man, so illogical. If at some point it was described as a luxury 'executive jet' suborbital ship on a special charter, kind of like some of the 'rent a Gulfstream G5' companies now, I could buy into it but as an active 'cross the world really really fast' air/space line? Not nearly enough seats. 

Mind, one of the considerations we must remember, cameras, sound, lighting, all that was HUGE by today's standards. Doing a 'walk and talk' down a corridor was really a huge undertaking, production-wise. So allowances must be made. 

But there's no excuse for NEVER working out how the Seaview fired torpedos out the front.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> But there's no excuse for NEVER working out how the Seaview fired torpedos out the front.


YOU never saw the tube holes? That's because they were, um, like HIDDEN, yeah! :grin2:


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> YOU never saw the tube holes? That's because they were, um, like HIDDEN, yeah! :grin2:


Of course there's the option of believing the old Remco toy (and many, so sad, of the Japanese model kits from the time) and that bow light is actually the tube...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just got home from holiday after studying the colour ep of the first season's first show, and I painted the red & green (other side) lights and the white rear sail light... I think I'm done now... any suggestions before I wrap up and store the paints & stuff?


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

In the movie I think the largest miniature had a staff for a flag off the back of the sail. I don't recall offhand if it was ever used in the TV series. I thought I saw a place for that to mount on the sail when you started the build, I'm assuming you decided against having it because a. not memorable in the first season and b. it's one more darn thing to potentially break off that you can do without. Close?


----------



## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Steve H said:


> Spindrift, man, so illogical. If at some point it was described as a luxury 'executive jet' suborbital ship on a special charter, kind of like some of the 'rent a Gulfstream G5' companies now, I could buy into it but as an active 'cross the world really really fast' air/space line? Not nearly enough seats.


I'm probably in the minority, but I believe the charm and uniqueness of IA designs derives in part from the fact that their only mandate was that they look good. No doubt Charlie Maas could have designed a more practical and scientifically sound version of the Spindrift, but it probably wouldn't have looked as cool.

My personal IA fave is the Flying Sub. Doesn't make a damned bit of sense from a technological standpoint, but I love the design.

Awesome Seaview, btw! I still have to build mine one of these days. So many models, so little time, etc.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> I'm assuming you decided against having it because a. not memorable in the first season and b. it's one more darn thing to potentially break off that you can do without. Close?


_Precisely._:grin2:

Here are a few shots (the colour varies a LOT depending on the light!):


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Carson Dyle said:


> I'm probably in the minority, but I believe the charm and uniqueness of IA designs derives in part from the fact that their only mandate was that they look good. No doubt Charlie Maas could have designed a more practical and scientifically sound version of the Spindrift, but it probably wouldn't have looked as cool.
> 
> My personal IA fave is the Flying Sub. Doesn't make a damned bit of sense from a technological standpoint, but I love the design.
> 
> Awesome Seaview, btw! I still have to build mine one of these days. So many models, so little time, etc.


Regarding the Spindrift: Yeah, I grok, but when you can't help but feel the best designs are the ones that adhere to 'form follows function', I at least find myself wanting to 'de-construct' from the shape as shown. What are the reasons it is the way it is? 

(I mean, if the Time Tunnel WASN'T a big glowing tunnel into infinity but just a chair, wouldn't you feel cheated? I sure would.  )

Which of course is a fool's fantasy when you can have rooms come and go depending on story requirements. 

I find myself thinking the Spindrift is NOT a top of the line commercial aerospace craft but rather a war surplus light cargo/troop hauler, maybe akin to the Grumman Goose seaplane. Yeah, OK, kind of crazy and much more 'backstory' then would EVER be generated for an IA show, but hey, works for me.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Ha! I was moving the antenna & it snapped off! So I glued it back & it just feels too brittle. It was added on to begin with & never a single piece. I wasn't going to use the Paragrafix one, but I am forced to upgrade. I cut a thin line into a sprue & superglued the annealed part in, then fabricated a directional-thingy to regular glue to the front (God I love my crazy tiny file collection). Failure forces one to better succeed. I guess.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

That Seaview build really looks great!! The colors look perfect in the sun,what colors did you use? Very outstanding job,keep up the great work my friend.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I would once again like to complement you on the clear windows, Chris. Beautifully done, I can't see a speck of overspray or mis-masking or fogging and they're crystal clear. Very well done!

Sorry about the radar, but I think you'll be more happy about it in the end. But see how wise YOU were, because by being able to move it up and down you made it super easy to replace and fix!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Sorry about the radar, but I think you'll be more happy about it in the end. But see how wise YOU were, because by being able to move it up and down you made it super easy to replace and fix!


LOL, next time it breaks I'll just fix it agin!>


> I would once again like to complement you on the clear windows, Chris. Beautifully done, I can't see a speck of overspray or mis-masking or fogging and they're crystal clear.


Oh man, not crystal clear in MY book, but I'm very glad it looks that way in pictures. But yeah, not bad. About as clear as I'd hoped for.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

New radar installed (keeping the old one just in case):


















I just thought of another model that was THIS much fun! My MPC Millenium Falcon from the 80's!


----------



## voyagefan** (Dec 19, 1999)

Nicely finished Seaview Chris.
Your model is a perfect example of how nice the Moebius 8 window Seaview can be built up.
The first season of Voyage on DVD clearly reveals how crude the filming miniatures were made 
and to those who stress over any inaccuracies of this model to them in my opinion is a waste of time.
The photo etched antenna was a nice upgrade. Good job.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Speaking of that flagpole, I just HAD to include it on my Lunar Models Seaview.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

John P said:


> Speaking of that flagpole, I just HAD to include it on my Lunar Models Seaview.


That looks like a nice kit. Any more pictures you could share?


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

John P said:


> Speaking of that flagpole, I just HAD to include it on my Lunar Models Seaview.


Nice build. Vac-form I assume?


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Ah, yes, the vacuform Lunar Models Seaview, which was hardly a "quick little weekend build"; I was a nervous wreck by the time I finished it!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oh man, a check on eBay shows two going for $200 + shipping each... I REALLY lucked out!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Attack of the giant underwater living room Cat!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chris, you fool! Now the cat knows it's something you care about! Some day, some unexpected day, the cat is going to play "does gravity work on this?" with it, or decide to play "I 'm not touching it!" walking around it, or "That looks like something worth gnawing on" with it!!

The cat does not do these things out of anger or malice, it's just the matters of humans are of no consequence to the cat, who is superior and rules all. I know this to be true.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I blame myself.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I blame myself.


Not your fault, I should not have been so harsh. 

We are powerless when a cat uses their 5th dimension powers on us. 

Ha! The look on that face! "Oh, Chris, didn't you know that for CORRECT spacing of the periscopes, snorkel and radar mast you have to move all the holes 1/1000th of an inch aft?"

:devil:

Happy New Year!


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> Attack of the giant underwater living room Cat!


I know that look. "Okay, I've sniffed it. Now get it away from me."


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, yeah, I'm in love with my model here...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Great job hiding the wheels and the wind-up motor! Or is this the deluxe release with the electric motor and the wired remote control?

:devil:

Now you need to find a decent sized aquarium that you can place the Seaview behind to give the illusion of really being under water. 

Oh come on, you WANT to do that. I even bet there's a tiny voice in your head that even says "maybe I could just put it on top of the water in a pool long enough to take a picture..."

I would strongly advise against THAT. That's just asking for the gods to take notice and bring disaster down upon you. But that voice is there, isn't it?


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

There's a pool at my condo and YES I've considered it for when it gets warm & they re-open it....


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> There's a pool at my condo and YES I've considered it for when it gets warm & they re-open it....


No no no no NO, OK? It's so risky and if something happens you might say NOW "I accept the risk" when it happens you'll feel devastated. Because you knew better and you did it anyway. I sense you're the kind of person who can't just shrug off making a preventable error. I know I can't. 

Yet saying that, I think there could be a way. It would be involved, take some preparation, but I think it might work.

You'd need to build a frame (like a picture frame. Hollow in the middle), maybe out of clear plexi or lexan or something. the frame should be longer than the sub, much longer, and slightly wider. 

this frame should have long poles that can reach from the frame to the bottom of the shallow end of the pool. the frame should be submerged. Being made of clear plastic of some form it would be pretty much invisible. OK so far?

Now stretch some saran wrap or other clear plastic film over the frame. You're making a trampoline in a way, or a hammock. Submerge the completed unit. Now your Seaview rests on the clear plastic film. It's supported but it has water lapping against it. It won't go away or sink. 

I dunno, I think I'm missing something, but the basics seem sound. 

Plan b. carve an exact replica of your model out of wood. Put in water. photoshop your model on top of it. presto.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Chrisisall said:


> That looks like a nice kit. Any more pictures you could share?


Lunar Models Seaview


Yeah, it's the ancient Lunar Models kit. Must be almost 30 years old! I did a refurb on it a few years ago. It still has the honor of being the only vac kit I've ever finished.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Speaking of pools, I used to play with my Aurora Seaview in the pool. Once it's full of water, that model always sailed smooth, straight and true, in a shallow natural dive to the bottom. Those fins and that flat bottom worked!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

John P said:


> Lunar Models Seaview
> 
> 
> Yeah, it's the ancient Lunar Models kit. Must be almost 30 years old! I did a refurb on it a few years ago. It still has the honor of being the only vac kit I've ever finished.


I want to be sure I'm clear, that's a wonderful, clean build. But man, it's almost painful to see how 'off' the kit was, compared to the current Moebius kit, isn't it? 

Manufactured in the days when 'best guess' was all anyone could do...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> I want to be sure I'm clear, that's a wonderful, clean build. But man, it's almost painful to see how 'off' the kit was, compared to the current Moebius kit, isn't it?
> 
> Manufactured in the days when 'best guess' was all anyone could do...


Fugeddabowdit. That kit is pretty on target!! Not painful at all, a perfect size to boot. :thumbsup:








For when it was produced, it's fantastic!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This Seaview is now officially my second favourite build of of mine of all time










second only to my Monogram Colonial Viper










and that's sayin' a LOT because I love my Airwolf, Galactica & Armageddon Shuttle models a bunch!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

So I wrapped up my first season viewing with *The Condemned* & *The Traitor*.
Condemned was well directed but it was the first underwater 'guy in a suit' thing that would plague the series later. Good Seaview shots. Decent drama.
Traitor was by comparison low on cool model work, but DAMN good on writing & acting! A fine last season one episode!!!
Now I am sad.... 

And thanks to everyone who followed this build!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Last (B&W) pic of my Moebius Seaview in case I am not welcome here anymore...


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

You dont feel welcome in your own thread? :lurk5:


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey Chris? What's the deal, man? Something bite you in the butt in another thread? I am really sure Milton isn't gonna ban hammer you over a nothing beef because you may disagree with him on some thing or another. we're not 'living on raw nerve emotion kneejerk' people on Instagram or Twitter here, we're all somewhat intelligent and reasoned individuals with the maturity to build the toys...I mean carefully crafted miniature replicas... of the icons of our youth. I'm pretty darn sure Milton is one of those mods that can separate his personal views and opinions from the job of watching over the threads.

It's cool, Daddy-O.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Hey Chris? What's the deal, man? Something bite you in the butt in another thread? I am really sure Milton isn't gonna ban hammer you over a nothing beef because you may disagree with him on some thing or another. we're not 'living on raw nerve emotion kneejerk' people on Instagram or Twitter here, we're all somewhat intelligent and reasoned individuals with the maturity to build the toys...I mean carefully crafted miniature replicas... of the icons of our youth. I'm pretty darn sure Milton is one of those mods that can separate his personal views and opinions from the job of watching over the threads.
> 
> It's cool, Daddy-O.


Thanks Steve.


Milton Fox Racing said:


> You dont feel welcome in your own thread? :lurk5:


I do now that you passed the popcorn. :grin2:

And now that I'm here, I was wondering if I should paint the interiour of the tower... I originally planned to paint it according to the full scale mock up, but in effects shots it looks like they didn't. 
Opinions?


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Well, again, the ever present question: are you attempting to replicate the actual filming miniature, are you trying to model the seen pieces of the sub made as 'full size'* set pieces or are you making the model as if the Seaview was a real, functioning sub cruising the seas and dealing with giant seaweed monsters, mutated humans, underwater giant spiders and the occasional crazed whale? 

I would say if matching the stage set gives a more interesting look, go with that. It should break up the sameness of the top of the sail. Oh! I can't recall if I asked. Are you going to mount the flag staff on the back of the sail?

*'full size' is often a misnomer as they're usually crafted at some fraction of 100% accurate to any miniature, as cost and space saving measures more often than not. "nobody will know" is the usual excuse but of course production departments had no way to know how home video would empower we maniacs.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Well, again, the ever present question: are you attempting to replicate the actual filming miniature


Basically that was what I intended... but the interiour behind the windows is very detailed compared to the actual filming miniature.
What if I go half & half? A 'light' gray in the tower? Not so in-your-face as white? Yeah, maybe I'll do that. Best of both worlds...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Light gray works for me and frankly is more scale realistic than white would turn out. 

I mean, if you TRULY wanted to recreate the filming miniature wouldn't you have to install a large toggle switch on the top of the sail?


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Light gray works for me and frankly is more scale realistic than white would turn out.
> 
> I mean, if you TRULY wanted to recreate the filming miniature wouldn't you have to install a large toggle switch on the top of the sail?


Point taken!:grin2:


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

If I might suggest, again in a blending of 'reality' and 'miniature', how about in addition to the American Flag flying from the staff, a NIMR pendant also fly under the flag?


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> If I might suggest, again in a blending of 'reality' and 'miniature', how about in addition to the American Flag flying from the staff, a NIMR pendant also fly under the flag?


LOL, no, I'm not gonna add that... as much as I like the movie (look at that thing hanging so precariously during the first dramatic emergence from the water), it wasn't visible at all to me in most of the first season (my favourite VTTBOTS).


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I like it just the way it is Chris. Really nice job! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> I like it just the way it is Chris. Really nice job! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks man!!!:cheers2:


----------



## daytime dave (Jan 14, 2017)

A very nice model. I'd do what you want to with it. It looks great the way it is. Light grey might look good too. I've enjoyed catching up on this thread. Nice documentation of your build.


----------

