# Making Seams Disappear ???



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I'm just curious about some of the various methods that you guys use to make seams in models disappear after you have glued the pieces together. Anyone wanna share their secrets ?


----------



## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Elbow grease and wet sanding:thumbsup:


----------



## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

After you have put the parts together and the glue has cured 24h, sand the surface. When you think its flush, apply putty. Wait another 24h. Then sand, sand, sand ... until you think it's flush. Now apply primer. Wait 24h. Get shocked by the seams that reappeared. Sand, sand, sand, until you think it's flush. Apply moderate putty. Wait 24h. Sand, sand, sand untill you think its flush. Apply primer. Wait 24h. Get less shocked by some seams that reappeared. Sand, sand, sand until you think its flush. Apply some putty, but only where there are really problems. Wait. Sand, sand, wet sand, wet sand. Apply primer, then base coat. Your are done!  

You may have noticed this one word that kept reappearing? 
Jep, that's the secret! I exaggerated above but putty and sanding is the way to go. 
No cheap or easy way around it.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Here's a fast and easier way(easy's such a relative term though) to get a rock solid fill
in waaaaaaaay less time then putty. No shrinkage or cracking,
and it won't destroy the plastic the way Squadron and some other puttys can. 
The MicroBalloons also have no noticable weight the way putty can.
But most important it won't distort/melt plastic which can happen
with puttys.

Some people swear by putty and have been able to use them with good 
results, but even when they don't distort the plastic they can take hours
to cure between applications and can crack.

With the following method you can be sanding in minutes between applications, instead of hours.

Thick gel CA glue.
MicroBalloons(extremely fine plastic powder that comes in a line-chalk like squeeze bottle.) 
Here's a shot of the bottle http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/top/toptopr1090.htm
and a good explaination of how it works:http://www.eagerplastics.com/7962.htm
Kicker.
Sanding Sponge.
Sanding cloth.

Repeat above as necessary.


Once you've got the seam so that you can no longer tell it's there
with you fingertips . . .


Mr.Surfacer 500 in Bottle( or can if you are 100% sure of your seam).

Let Dry.
Sand to a slick finish.

Later - Mr. Surfacer 500 and/or 1000 in Spray can.
Paint.


N.B. Keep the "Kicker" away from women and children. It is some potent stuff - treat it as such and don't inhale the mist or dust.


----------



## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

I clamp the two parts together, then run plastic welding glue down the seam.
Once the glue has set up, I put two strips of masking tape about 1 or 2mm either side of the seam and run putty over the joint. then I remove the tape slowly & carefully pulling the tape away from the join so that all I'm left with is a thin strip of putty right over the seam. Wait until it hardens and then, sand, sand etc...


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

BruceDownunder has a good way of doing this. If I can, I will actually create a small trench over the seam with my dremel and fill in the trench. However, is areas where you can't do this, it is basically putty, sand and prime until you get it the way you want.


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Sometimes, for long straight seams, you can get away with just using a seam scraper. Join the parts together with a liberal amount of tube glue and clamp them really tight so the glue and melted styrene squeeze out along the joint. Wait a few hours then scrape along the seam with the seam scraper. Then sand, prime, and, if the seam is still showing, fill with something like Tamiya fine polyester putty before sanding and priming again. 
Done right you shouldn't have to do much puttying or repititive sanding at all.


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> Sometimes, for long straight seams, you can get away with just using a seam scraper. Join the parts together with a liberal amount of tube glue and clamp them really tight so the glue and melted styrene squeeze out along the joint. Wait a few hours then scrape along the seam with the seam scraper. Then sand, prime, and, if the seam is still showing, fill with something like Tamiya fine polyester putty before sanding and priming again.
> Done right you shouldn't have to do much puttying or repititive sanding at all.


Are seam scrapers worth getting? How are they different than an exacto knife or other hobby knife? I am curious as I may invest in this if they are good to use.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Welding glue can create a very strong bond right at the original thin seam.

But if you use welding glue you have to be SUPER careful. It does exactly what it's name implies, it welds the parts together through partial melting.

Spilling anywhere you don't want it will create another filling/sanding problem.

If you have a seam of any great size though I would go try the CA glue, MicroBalloons, Kicker over the putty though. It'll make a rock hard seam and won't shrink or split.


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

I use a rather unorthodox method taught to me by some VERY wise IPMS USA members years ago:

First, glue parts together as normal. After at *least* 24 hours to allow for drying , apply Squadron 'Green' or 'White' putty to the seam. (Whatever your preference) (Testors putty works as well) Now here's the wierd part....useing a *NEW* fresh bottle of Testors Plastic Liquid Cement #3502 in the one ounce size with a wide brush (also by Testors) apply to the *wet* putty. Use the wide brush to 'work' the putty until relatively smooth , reapply cement to keep the putty flowing , use care not to flood the cement over the seam causing it to run and mar the surface , let dry for another 24 hours. Sand if neccessary.

The solvent based cement acts as a thinner and 'bites' into the plastic and smoothes the putty over the seam. This method uses less putty and when allowed to dry minimizes the amount of sanding required. Because the cement allows the putty to 'flow' into the tiny cracks and depressions 'unseen' by the naked eye, a repeat of this process is almost always unneccesary. Practice this method on something *else *until you get the 'hang' of it.

I know it sounds wierd guys. I was shocked when this method was shown to me after what seems like a hundred years ago. But *I swear by this method.* I have won countless IPMS contests and National Competitions to prove it. Trust me *it works !*

If done carefully and correctly sometimes *NO SANDING* whtsoever is needed afterword.


----------



## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

After gluing, I use my hobby knife to scrape the seams,wet sanding, then use touch to feel any spots that need putty. I don't trust my eyes to see the seams. Put tape on both sides of crack, putty, when dry, wet sand. Then I feel for high or low spots, more putty if need or more sanding, then prime. Less cracks for me that way, if any.


----------



## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I apply superglue to the seam then sprinkle baking powder over it with my fingers. This makes it fill gaps and harden immediately. It has to be sanded within a day or it gets harder than the plastic. This mixture will not shrink.

If you have squadron green or white putty, it sucks because it shrinks.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

KUROK said:


> I apply superglue to the seam then sprinkle baking powder over it with my fingers. This makes it fill gaps and harden immediately. It has to be sanded within a day or it gets harder than the plastic. This mixture will not shrink.
> 
> If you have squadron green or white putty, it sucks because it shrinks.


I've heard of using baking soda.
Have you ever tried MicroBalloons?

I've always worried about the baking soda eventually changing chemically. Not based on anything scientific, just a worry I've always had since I heard about it.

Do you ever use kicker afterwards with your CA baking soda mixture?

Do you think that would help or hurt the mixture?


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

KUROK said:


> I apply superglue to the seam then sprinkle baking powder over it with my fingers. This makes it fill gaps and harden immediately. It has to be sanded within a day or it gets harder than the plastic. This mixture will not shrink.
> 
> If you have squadron green or white putty, it sucks because it shrinks.



Another fine method to be sure, as long as the parts don't pull along the seam and the super glue does not provide the major strength of the glue joint. Super glue gets brittle with age, and can split under the slightest force or impact. It dries hard like glass and has no flexability . In small sections this method is best, where speed is a requirement. Each method described so far has it's functionality , practice them all ,and use each according to the need.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

KUROK said:


> I apply superglue to the seam then sprinkle baking powder over it with my fingers. This makes it fill gaps and harden immediately. It has to be sanded within a day or it gets harder than the plastic. This mixture will not shrink.
> 
> If you have squadron green or white putty, it sucks because it shrinks.


Just so I have this straight,..... Does it matter if I use the gel super glue or the thinner stuff ? And you are using "Baking Powder" not "Baking Soda ? I know there is a difference between the two.
And just let me say Thank you to all you guys that take the time to answer these kind of questions. I really do appreciate it. I've seen some forums where the guys guard their tips and tricks of doing things, like it was gold. But I have to say that most everyone here at Hobby Talk has always been eager to help and answer questions. Thanks again.
I have some old junk models that I can try out these various methods on, and see what works best for me.


----------



## 67657 (Mar 4, 2010)

Devcon Plastic Welder. Glue together with this 2 part adhesive, wait for it to cure. Sand, prime, done.


----------



## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Always happy to help if I can.


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

DCH10664 said:


> Just so I have this straight,..... Does it matter if I use the gel super glue or the thinner stuff ? And you are using "Baking Powder" not "Baking Soda ? I know there is a difference between the two.
> And just let me say Thank you to all you guys that take the time to answer these kind of questions. I really do appreciate it. I've seen some forums where the guys guard their tips and tricks of doing things, like it was gold. But I have to say that most everyone here at Hobby Talk has always been eager to help and answer questions. Thanks again.
> I have some old junk models that I can try out these various methods on, and see what works best for me.




Understand that any fine powder makes a good filler. But the above poster meant Baking Soda which creates a chemical reaction with the super glue causing it to set up instantly. Reducing your set up time from a few seconds to none at all. The longer the super glue is left to dry ,the area filled will set up to a rock hard consistancy making sanding imperative moments after applying. The process works equally well with gel or water thin super glue.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Ductapeforever said:


> The longer the super glue is left to dry ,the area filled will set up to a rock hard consistancy making sanding imperative moments after applying.


Yes. This is a big deal: the glue can set harder than the model's plastic, making sanding a real pain, with the risk of damaging your model.


----------



## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Oh yes, I mean the regular Arm & Hammer baking soda. I've never seen any aging issues with the baking soda once the superglue has cured.
I only use this on really big gaps. Small gaps you can just use superglue and maybe some accelerator if needed.
It is imperative to file or sand it down most of the way within about a day.
It can be carved with a hobby knife too when soft.
After it gets freakin hard, it can be sanded but it's going to be a lot more work.
The silver lining to the hardness is that it can be glass smooth.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Now I'm more confused than ever. But I'll try a couple of the given ideas. _Unfortunately_, most of these ways sound pretty good. Hard to weed through without personal experience. But thanks to everyone who gave ideas.

I used Tamiya white putty on my old Viper Mk.I recently, and began sanding like a madman. I just about ruined it because the styrene got so thin there. Luckily the decal stripe was thick and hid the seam pretty well.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

To reiterate what others have said:
Make sure the halves are lined up before you glue. Don't use putty to mask bad assembly.
Never put on more putty than you need. 
Mask both sides of the seam so you don't putty over the "good" areas away from the seam.
Go slowly and gradually, always checking the seam with a gentle touch before you go too far.


----------



## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Opus Penguin said:


> Are seam scrapers worth getting? How are they different than an exacto knife or other hobby knife? I am curious as I may invest in this if they are good to use.


I have one and while it can be a little easier to control than the edge of a blade you can still do it with a hobby knife. I actually used it to scrape the gridlines off an older AMT 1701 kit, worked great!.:thumbsup:


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Actually you often need more putty on each side of a seam to smooth it out. You don't want to go overboard, but if you put on just barely enough putty to cover the seam (and it will shrink) and then sand it down, you probably will still have a seam left. You also don't want to sand away too much of the putty.

For example, my Blackbeard figure had some pretty poor fit. The joint down his back was tight, but had high and low spots on each side of the seam. I added a wide swath of putty right down the middle










This is what it looked like after I was done sanding... 










And then under a coat of Tamiya spray primer










You also want to sand back and forth across the seam. not up and down the length of it so much. Putty is usually softer than plastic and if you sand with the seam, you can remove the putty from the joint area .

there are many different fillers you can use. My favorite general putty is Tamiya Basic Putty (the grey stuff). The white putty does not adhere as well and tends to come off during sanding more readily. I also use Squadron Green Putty. Again, their white putty does not seem to adhere as well.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

SteveR said:


> Yes. This is a big deal: the glue can set harder than the model's plastic, making sanding a real pain, with the risk of damaging your model.


That would bite!

Seriously guys, try experimenting using MicroBalloons instead of the Baking Soda if you haven't tried it yet.

They are chemically stable and sand very easily, as well as extremely light.

I myself like to use Kicker after applying the CA glue/MicroBalloons to the seam.

Kicker as a catalizer for the CA glue has to be handled carefully as it's a toxic chemical - unlike baking soda, but the hardness won't change over time.

Wearing a respirator and gloves and a little caution while using the Kicker should keep you okay.


----------



## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Hi!

Over the years, I have develpoed a good way for getting rid of seam lines over two glued together parts. 

First off, I usually do a "Dry Fit" of the parts to make sure they line up propperly when put together.

Look over the kit and then ask yourself "Do all the alignment pins match up and the two parts meet end to end and top to bottom?"

If not, then cut off and file down the alignment pins, removing them from the whole "alignment" process, and then "eyeball" the part alignment and glue together using Testor's Liquid Glue. (I'm thinking 18"er Enterprise Warp Engine Nacelles here guys!)

For tools, I have made a very rigid sanding block useing a piece of sticky back 180 grit automotive sand paper wrapped around a block of MDF hard board. I like to call this block "The Anihilator" for good reasons!  

But seriously, you should start with sandpaper grit of 240-320. 

Once your glue has dried (24 hours), you can then sand using the "Cross Sanding" method that I was taught in Autobody Collision Repair back in the 1990's. 

Basically, you sand out the seam line by moving the sanding block at a 45 degree angle across the seam line, something like this : ////////////.

Secondly, turn the sanding block around and sand across the seam line in the opposite direction, like this : \\\\\\\\\\\\\.

Your final sanding pattern should look like this : XXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Feel out the seam line using your finger moving it in a vertical direction across the seam line, like this : llllllllllllllllllll

You should not be able to feel the transition (Bump) between the two parts. If you do, repeat the cross sanding process until you can't. 

To remove the deeper scratches created by the 180-320 grit sand paper, use progressive sand papers starting with 400 grit up to 800 grit. 

For seam lines on smaller parts, I usually remove these by scraping them off with my hobby knife and then sanding them with finer sandpaper, if possible.

This being said, I find that by using the cross sanding method, I use less filler to pretty much none at all. I find that I only need filler if there is a sink mark on the model that is so low that I would end up making the plastic paper thin to get to it, or if there's a huge gap between the seam lines.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

djnick66 said:


> Actually you often need more putty on each side of a seam to smooth it out.


Quite true, if the fit is poor. I just wanted to make the OP aware of the perils of hasty assembly leading to poor fit of a properly moulded kit. If the model is poorly moulded, then putty away! (Arrrgh!)


----------



## jasonalun (Jun 23, 2009)

Chuck_P.R. said:


> Kicker.
> Sanding Sponge.
> Sanding cloth.


I'd like to try this. Forgive my ignorance, but what is "kicker?"


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Super Glue Accelerator !


----------



## jasonalun (Jun 23, 2009)

Ductapeforever said:


> Super Glue Accelerator !



Thanks!


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

^^^What Ductapeforever said.

I'd also use this: http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/top/toptopr1090.htm

along with it. It will help keep the texture of the seam like that of the plastic.


But remember follow the handling instructions on the Kicker bottle. 
Wear rubber gloves, and don't inhale the spray when you buy the
small spray bottle(that's a refill bottle pictured.

And finish it off with some Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000 (higher number is thinner).


----------



## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

This is a method I have used for years. Place the two pieces together and then either with a fine brush or draftsman ruling pen loaded with liquid plastic weld cement (like Tenax) gently touch the seam a watch the glue flow along it by capillary action. Wait a few seconds and gently squeeze the parts together, taking care not to misalign the parts. You will see melted plastic bubble up from the seam. Wait untill dry, about an hour or two, and then gently scrape with the back of your knife (adzing) and sand. Viola! No seam! In some cases you may need to use some putty but if done right it would be very minimal.


----------



## Nektu (Aug 15, 2001)

Has anyone tried Mr. Surfacer 500 or Mr. Dissolved Putty? They really are pretty awesome for small seams and fixes. I've used Liquitex 'Modeling Paste', too, with great results. Less is more, and go slow! 

K


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I use Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer all the time... great stuff.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Ductapeforever said:


> Super Glue Accelerator !


If you don't have any handy, you can "breathe" fog onto the glued surface (the same way you breathe steamy breath on glasses to clean them) This helps the super glue to harden, _because it uses the microscopic water in the air and on the plastic surface as a natural accelerator.
_


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

dreadnaught726 said:


> This is a method I have used for years. Place the two pieces together and then either with a fine brush or draftsman ruling pen loaded with liquid plastic weld cement (like Tenax) gently touch the seam a watch the glue flow along it by capillary action. Wait a few seconds and gently squeeze the parts together, taking care not to misalign the parts. You will see melted plastic bubble up from the seam. Wait untill dry, about an hour or two, and then gently scrape with the back of your knife (adzing) and sand. Viola! No seam! In some cases you may need to use some putty but if done right it would be very minimal.


Tenax does provide a really good bond. A better bond then anything else used without a secondary catalyst. Maybe even better then CA with Kicker.

I've just always shied away from it since I found CA and Kicker at a young age.

I had some bad experiences with Tenax and other welding type glues when I was just a kid.

But I'll be the first to admit that that was probably due to the fact that as a kid I'm sure my skills just were not there and I used too much of the stuff.

Nowadays I'm still perhaps irrationally worried about the same melting issues I experienced as a kid.

Though I would still - myself personally - probably still have a bit to worry about using it because now that I've developed Type 2 I find that the degree of steadiness isn't there like it used to be.

On a good day and my sugar levels are fine my hand is fairly steady(though I'm certainly not surgeon material), other days I find myself resorting to "Helping Hands" gigs and clamp contraptions I never had to resort to in years past.

I blame it on fluctuating sugar levels because I think I shouldn't be having these problems at 47 years old, but then again, I am getting older too!!!

How much of it is due to age is probably almost impossible to seperate from other issues.

Tenax is great stuff though. Just have to have a very steady hand and be fast with the stuff.


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Slightly off topic...

My 'Go To' liquid cement of choice is *IPS Weld-On #3, or #4*. For economic more than other reasons. Many of you may not be familiar with it because it is no longer sold in Hobby Stores. 

I accidently discovered years ago that I could save *BIG* money buying cement in bulk. The average price for a 1 oz bottle of Tenax 7R is around $5.00 and some change at most Hobby shops and online retailers . That's $5.00 an ounce ! A pint can of Weld-On is $16.75 where I buy it. If you save the 1 oz Tenax bottles and REFIL them you get sixteen refils, at an incredible savings of $63.25 for the same amount of cement had you bought sixteen bottles of Tenax. At $5.00 an ounce...that's $80.00 ! 

A sixteen ounce can of Weld-On will last an average modeler 5-8 *Months ! *Weld-On comes in *BIGGER* cans also ! 

The plus side to this story is this, if you are like me , you leave the lid off the cement bottle as you work, bear in mind all cements of this kind *evaporate* ! That 1 oz bottle won't last that long before you're in the car headed for the store to buy another five bucks worth of glue. Weld-On evaporates at the same rate , but at an average price per ounce of $1.04 and with sixteen ounces on hand, you save money, time , and gasoline to go to the store.

Now I'm no Chemist and I haven't chemically compared Tenax and Weld-On, but they're peformance characteristics are the same. They are both water thin , clear fast acting bonding agents for plastic (Weld-On #4 is also formulated for plexiglass as well as ABS.) Weld-On is availabe at most Industrial Plastics houses that work with plastics and substrates used in Commercial signs. Call around folks, you should be able to find it in your area. We now return you to our topic already in progress........


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Ductapeforever said:


> Slightly off topic...
> 
> My 'Go To' liquid cement of choice is *IPS Weld-On #3, or #4*. For economic more than other reasons. Many of you may not be familiar with it because it is no longer sold in Hobby Stores. I accidently discovered years ago that I could save *BIG* money buying cement in bulk. The average price for a 1 oz bottle of Tenax 7R is around $5.00 and some change at most Hobby shops and online retailers . That's $5.00 an ounce ! A pint can of Weld-On is $16.75 where I buy it. If you save the 1 oz Tenax bottles and REFIL them you get sixteen refils, at an incredible savings of $63.25 for the same amount of cement had you bought sixteen bottles of Tenax. At $5.00 an ounce...that's $80.00 ! A sixteen ounce can of Weld-On will last an average modeler 5-8 *Months ! *Weld-On comes in *BIGGER* cans also !
> 
> ...


It may be slightly off topic, but with 3 teenagers still living at home, my model budget needs all the help it can get. So thanks for the tip :thumbsup:


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

UPDATE: After a little further research I discovered Tenax 7R and Weld-On # 4 are BOTH formulations of the same chemical, Methylene Chloride. Both brands are concidered carcinogens in the state of California. Ehh, ...cancer , smancer! Everything will kill us eventually. Use in WELL ventilated areas !


*Hey, you can get it on Amazon !* #4 also.

http://www.amazon.com/Weld-On-3-Acrylic-Adhesive-Pint/dp/B000KZUTEM


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Nektu said:


> Has anyone tried Mr. Surfacer 500 or Mr. Dissolved Putty? They really are pretty awesome for small seams and fixes. I've used Liquitex 'Modeling Paste', too, with great results. Less is more, and go slow!
> 
> K


I would like to know if Mr. Surfacer is good as a base primer. I am trying to identify the best primer to use on this model that requires minimal sanding. Mr. Primer 500 seems the best but should I get the even finer versions?


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Unless you're trying to fill in the gridlines, go with Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200.

Tamiya fine surface primer's also excellent.


----------



## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Opus Penguin said:


> I would like to know if Mr. Surfacer is good as a base primer. I am trying to identify the best primer to use on this model that requires minimal sanding. Mr. Primer 500 seems the best but should I get the even finer versions?


I use both. The spray can Mr Surfacer 500 is great, as well as 1000.

If you are sure there is virtually no sanding necessary you might want to try 1000 first, but you may find you'll need a coat of 500 as well.

The stuff in the bottle is thicker then the spray stuff.

As I'd recommend on virtually any spray paint cans, soak it in very warm/almost hot water for 5 to 10 minutes before spraying to get a nice even flow.


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Learned a little more about *Weld-On #4*:

*(Slower setting)* Solvent Cement for Bonding Acrylic and Polystyrene. *It is Best as a general multi use cement.* WELD-ON 4 is a water-thin, cement formulated to quickly develop very clear and high strength bonds for many thermoplastic substrates. The bond is achieved by first softening the surfaces to be joined and then fusing them together with the dissipation of the solvent. The initial bond forms within a matter of minutes and is followed by a significant and continual increase in bond strength over the next several hours. WELD-ON 4 is preferred by most plastic fabricators because it is less likely to leave white marks (commonly called blushing). It will also bond with other thermoplastics such as *polystyrene*, CAB (cellulose acetate butyrate), polycarbonate and *ABS* to themselves. PRODUCT CANNOT SHIP VIA ANY TYPE OF AIR TRANSPORT, INCLUDING UPS NEXT DAY AIR, UPS 2ND DAY AIR, UPS 3 DAY SELECT, FEDERAL EXPRESS, PRIORITY MAIL, ETC. THIS PRODUCT MUST SHIP VIA GROUND TRANSPORTATION ONLY!!! 

*Weld-On #3*
*(Very Fast Setting)* Solvent Cement for Bonding Acrylic. WELD-ON 3 is a water-thin, non-flammable cement formulated to quickly develop high strength, clear bonds to many thermoplastic substrates, particularly acrylic . Under certain conditions, especially with high humidity, a white mark on the plastic (commonly called blushing) may sometimes be encountered. Where a more blush resistant cement and longer working time is required, WELD-ON 4 is recommended. Weld-On 3 Acrylic Adhesive is a water thin, very fast set, solvent type adhesive for acrylics. It also bonds other plastics such as *styrene*, butyrate, and polycarbonates . SUGGESTED BONDING APPLICATIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS: WELD-ON 3 is used extensively in sign fabrication. It is also widely used in the POP industry (e.g. display), and in the fabrication and bonding of plastic containers, housewares, bottles and many other applications using the capillary method. Color: Clear , Contents of Can: 1 pint (16 fl oz ) Ship Via: Same shipping as Weld-On #4.


----------



## sambob (Apr 3, 2006)

Found this tip year's ago It worked quite nicely.

http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT029-Filler-WO-Sanding/00.shtm


----------



## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

That's great! Thanks for the link.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _sambob;4370950]Found this tip year's ago It worked quite nicely._


http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT029-Filler-WO-Sanding/00.shtm[/QUOTE

Heard of this before. I used the same method on the Aliens powerloader (without the use of the taping part) with limited success.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

This should be a "seam" sticky. So much great ideas in one thread. I'd like to try a new one with each next model!


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I never knew there were so many options and methods for filling seams. I really appreciate everyone sharing what they know. And the tips on the different types of glue are quite helpful as well.


----------



## Jimbo Bob (Mar 29, 2009)

Some of the most difficult to fill seems are the 90 degree ones where a wing joins a fuselage for example. It's very hard to get CA in there without making a mess. And using the putty and nail polish remover trick often damages the surrounding plastic in a tight corner. 

I now use white glue applied with a toothpick and then wipe away the excess with a damp Q Tip. Works wonders.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Jimbo Bob said:


> Some of the most difficult to fill seems are the 90 degree ones where a wing joins a fuselage for example. It's very hard to get CA in there without making a mess. And using the putty and nail polish remover trick often damages the surrounding plastic in a tight corner.
> 
> I now use white glue applied with a toothpick and then wipe away the excess with a damp Q Tip. Works wonders.


What type of "white glue" are you referring to ???


----------



## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

Like many things there isn't a foolproof miracle cure for dealing with seams.

All the methods mentioned require a degree of practice and patience.

I suppose the best answer would be to pick the method you are best at. My problem is I'm equally bad at all of them.


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

DCH10664 said:


> What type of "white glue" are you referring to ???


Polyvinyl acetate ( PVA) is a widely used glue type, commonly referred to as wood glue, white glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, or Elmer's glue (in the US). It belongs to the polyvinyl esters family with the general formula -[RCOOCHCH2]-. It is a type of thermoplastic.



'Better Living ,through Science !'


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I had never thought of it before,.....But I suppose Elmers Glue would work in certain situations. It dries to be kind of rubber-like. So as long as you got it smoothed down good, I guess it could work. :thumbsup:


----------

