# Mclane edger



## 1930

Hi Guys, I have a model no 801-3.51C and have always had the issue of surging with it that I would like to correct. 

I bought the unit used quite a few years ago and although it looked very well taken care of it had this problem even back then. What causes this hunting affect? 

I have a feeling by the looks of things that the springs in the carb area are possibly incorrect or in the wrong place but I am needing a reference for what might be correct and have not found that yet. 

I have contacted Mclane a few years ago and they were little help. 

Do any of you guys have a service manual for this edger that would show me the proper orientation of underneath the air cleaner. If I could find the picture and maybe some good part numbers for the correct springs with the correct tensions than I would be at least moving forward with this thing. 

Thanks for any help.


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## usmcgrunt

Hello Jason.The surging could be caused by the weak springs you suspect or a number of other things.There could be an air leak from the carb gaskets,a dirty carb in need of a good cleaning or rebuilding with new parts.The brand,model and spec numbers off the engine are what we would need to help you further.
I will take a guess that you have a Briggs & Stratton flat head motor on your edger and here is a link to the service manual.Hope this helps.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/01_270962SingleCylinderLHead.pdf


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## 1930

Hello MC, here are some pictures ( I hope ) of what I am working with. I am pretty darn sure that the springs are wrong / incorrect as at least one has no tension at all on it at idle. 

I did not get as far as to take a clear picture with air cleaner assy off but I am sure you can recognize its sorta unique/old time carb as being a vacuum deal, not really much of a carb I guess technically from what I have been told. 

Anyway I could really use a breakdown at this point or diagram if avail of the carb area showing how springs are used/their connection points and part numbers for good original springs so I can get them ordered. I also am in need of the swing arm plastic deal that the throttle cable uses as its connection point to the carb as this broke on me the last time I was fiddling with it. Thanks again


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## 1930

I am not clear on how this would help but stamped into cover on engine is model 92202 1242

Type E-1 

Code 9803 18FA

I am assuming this engine was used in a variety of applications over a number of years and will not necessarily help in identifying the carb/Governor springs info needed but again that is just a guess. 

I am looking thru the manual you attached and do not see my exact carb set-up but am continuing to look. 

Difficult for me to understand and be certain I am correct in my understanding but it appears I was incorrect about the posted numbers above possibly being useless, it would appear that they help identify my carb set-up within the manual. 

Any clarification on how all of this reads would be most helpful. 

Thanks for the help


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## usmcgrunt

Hello Jason.I think your engine number is 092202-1242-E1.The code number (980318FA) means it was built in 19(98) in April (03) on the (18) day on assembly line (FA).

Here are links to the parts list,carb information and the pages in the manual that apply to your carb setup.

Parts list-
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=092202-1242-E1

Carb repair-
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_pulsa-jet_horiz_fixed.asp 

Briggs manual-
Pages 27 to 38 reference your carburetor

To answer your compression question.Most 2-cycle engines require 100 psi or higher to start and run correctly.I had a Poulan leaf blower with 60 psi that would run ok if and when I could get it started.

Most 4-cycle engines have a compression release built into\onto the cam shaft to open (usually the exhaust valve) slightly to help when pull starting the engine.In which case the compression will read 50-60 psi and isn't an accurate indicator of engine condition.The Pro's on the forum (not me) use a leak down test as a more accurate form of engine diagnostics.This test will show leaking valves,worn piston rings or bad seals\gaskets.Hope this helps.
If I'm wrong on any of the information,I hope someone will correct me.


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## Don L

I think the model,type and date code should be stamped into the blower housing(starter cover)either by the spark plug or on the side oppisite the carb.
I've worked on a lot of these engines in that last 12 years and have found that cleaning the carb and replacing the diaphragm and fuel tank gasket usually takes care of the problem.
I've found the easiest way for me to do this is to remove the blower housing first to gain easier access to the carb mounting screws and govenor linkage.This is also a good time to replace the starter rope if needed and clean and lubricate the starter clutch if applicable.


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## Rentahusband

I recently built my own leakdown tester and used it on a 5hp Tech, that was quite weak on power. I found that the ex valve was leaking alot. There was no clearance between the valve and lifter, so the valve was not seating properly. I removed just enough material from the valve stem so there was the appropriate clearance. Waiting for a head gasket to retest.


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## 1930

usmcgrunt said:


> Hello Jason.I think your engine number is 092202-1242-E1.The code number (980318FA) means it was built in 19(98) in April (03) on the (18) day on assembly line (FA).
> 
> Here are links to the parts list,carb information and the pages in the manual that apply to your carb setup.
> 
> Parts list-
> http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=092202-1242-E1
> 
> Carb repair-
> http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_pulsa-jet_horiz_fixed.asp
> 
> Briggs manual-
> Pages 27 to 38 reference your carburetor
> 
> To answer your compression question.Most 2-cycle engines require 100 psi or higher to start and run correctly.I had a Poulan leaf blower with 60 psi that would run ok if and when I could get it started.
> 
> Most 4-cycle engines have a compression release built intoonto the cam shaft to open (usually the exhaust valve) slightly to help when pull starting the engine.In which case the compression will read 50-60 psi and isn't an accurate indicator of engine condition.The Pro's on the forum (not me) use a leak down test as a more accurate form of engine diagnostics.This test will show leaking valves,worn piston rings or bad sealsgaskets.Hope this helps.
> If I'm wrong on any of the information,I hope someone will correct me.


I would not have thought that compression in these little engines would have been that high, very interesting and thanks. Also the catalogs are very nice, I now know where to get the possibly needed parts. 

What I still have not found is a picture, maybe an overhead and side view of spring location that is clear to me, there are various holes in some of these components/levers that are not being shown in the diagrams and from what I have seen the diagrams are showing most components suspended in mid air. 

I plan to take this apart a bit further today and post some pictures under the air cleaner of what I am working with. Maybe then you guys will see what I am up against. 

I have contacted Mclane for that needed photos but I guess since it is not their engine they are not able to help. I do have the owners manual but again that is no help. I would think there has to be a service manual specifically for this edger that would give me the photos I am after which would be the unit all in one piece and clear photos, am I incorrect? 

Thanks again, very good information


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## 1930

Don L said:


> I think the model,type and date code should be stamped into the blower housing(starter cover)either by the spark plug or on the side oppisite the carb.
> I've worked on a lot of these engines in that last 12 years and have found that cleaning the carb and replacing the diaphragm and fuel tank gasket usually takes care of the problem.
> I've found the easiest way for me to do this is to remove the blower housing first to gain easier access to the carb mounting screws and govenor linkage.This is also a good time to replace the starter rope if needed and clean and lubricate the starter clutch if applicable.


I will prob. remove the carb today for a good soaking, fuel tank is clean I believe but will look at this as well. 

I am still mystified on the engineering that went into the cover removal on this thing, I have to literally remove the engine or lift up the engine off its frame to get this cover off, makes no sense as it would have only taken ( as far as I have noticed so far ) a couple of small blocks between the frame and engine to lift it up just the little more needed so that the cover could be easily removed. 

I know its not the best edger ever manufactured but it has never done me wrong except the surging issue and I always find myself getting frustrated at this one poorly engineered issue. 

I plan to work on making some blocks, maybe some rubber cushions and fix this issue myself. I need to replace the broken string anyway. 

I have no starter if you mean an electric unit, it is simply pull the rope.


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## 1930

Rentahusband said:


> I recently built my own leakdown tester and used it on a 5hp Tech, that was quite weak on power. I found that the ex valve was leaking alot. There was no clearance between the valve and lifter, so the valve was not seating properly. I removed just enough material from the valve stem so there was the appropriate clearance. Waiting for a head gasket to retest.


I have to wonder how this is possible, are valves so universal between models on these small engines that someone put the wrong one in? Maybe the seat is either so worn down that clearance has become and issue? Maybe someone installed a new seat incorrectly. Interesting stuff, thanks for bringing it up

BTW are the lifters usually solid on these small engines or do you see a mix of solid and hydraulic?


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## usmcgrunt

Hello Jason.Here are two Youtube videos of the carb linkage on your engine that should clarify the configuration for you.This guy,Donyboy73,is great at making videos and explaining how and why things work on small engines of every type.
As the valves and seats wear and expand from heat,the clearance will decrease to the point of the valves needing adjustment by filing\grinding to proper specs.All flat head engines are solid lifters.I believe most OHV engines except for some Kohler's,are also solid lifter?


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## 1930

Thanks for those links, I am going to try and find more of his videos by maybe entering his user name on you-tube somewhere and see what I can come up with. 

Today I did good, I decided to really sit there and stare at it until I worked up enough confidence to tear it down. 

I have taken some before pictures and as you can see the linkages are not much like the video posted. They seem much simpler on my engine. I went ahead and bought a carb re-build kit after I noticed that in fact my springs prob. were original cause they had red paint on them the same as the engine and it matched the overspray on other pieces. 

Anyway the carb kit turned out to be pretty much useless. I brought it back to the dealer with the carb and they were stumped at the simplicity and lack of parts on the carb. I only ended up having to buy a new diaphragm which I dont think I needed either but since it was apart I figured I may as well replace something. 

It turned out that inside of the fuel tank were two screens, one on a long plastic nozzle pick-up deal that went all the way to the bottom of the tank and the other was very shallow in the tank and sat into a little trough attached to the top of the tank. 

The one in the trough or the short one was plugged I am guessing solid for I do not know how far. Just crud, I was able to clean it out and clean everything else as well as I thought was possible and put it all back together. 

I also replaced the spark plug as it also had the red overspray on it ( original plug ) 

Started right up and is like night and day. Still is surging a bit though, I do not know why, for the heck of it I brought it to the dealer and the guy came out and looked at it and said that it was a great running little edger, said it is almost normal that it surge a bit up and down but it may end up clearing itself up of that over time. 

Anyway I am fairly happy with the outcome and will post some pictures in a bit.


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## Rentahusband

I lapped the valves and then adjusted the clearance between the valve stem and lifter. Hoping the head gasket will come tomorrow so I can see if it has new life!! Engine is on a snowblower that is about 12 yrs old, with not alot of hours considering it's age. I have an 8hp Tech on a snowblower that is about 15yrs old with alot of hard use. Regular oil changes and a few carb cleanings is all I have done to it. I have seen a few vids from this Donyboy73. He is pretty good!!


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## 1930

Rentahusband said:


> I lapped the valves and then adjusted the clearance between the valve stem and lifter. Hoping the head gasket will come tomorrow so I can see if it has new life!! Engine is on a snowblower that is about 12 yrs old, with not alot of hours considering it's age. I have an 8hp Tech on a snowblower that is about 15yrs old with alot of hard use. Regular oil changes and a few carb cleanings is all I have done to it. I have seen a few vids from this Donyboy73. He is pretty good!!


Ok I see, I took 4 pictures whilst at work today and tried downloading them last night at home and of course only one took so that is all I have at this point. Anyway not nearly as many linkages as I noticed on the engine in the video. 

A spent a good deal of time looking at Donnyboys videos last night, good stuff.

Oh Yeah, I hate to not have original stuff on my equipment but originally there was a small plastic eyelet that the throttle cable went into that snapped into the larger hole that you can see just forward of the drilled hole I made where the cable resides now. The dealer told me yesterday that it is no longer avail ( he couldnt find it ) I would like to find one so that I can put it back the way it was originally and if one of you guys have one than I would like to have it assuming it is cheap enough. Thanks


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