# Fozzie's 1:350 TOS Enterprise build



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I thought I would post a couple of pictures from my 1:350 TOS _Enterprise _build.

First, the bridge. This uses the Paragrafix photo-etch kit though I didn't use the railings (just too darned small for my eyes and fingers). I'm fairly pleased with how it came out. The major flaws I see pretty much all disappear when you are viewing it through the "peep hole" of the bridge dome.










One of my nacelles, friction assembled. The dome needs more frosting, but it is coming along. 










I am building the production version. So far, I have:

- Completed the bridge (except for sealing up yet-to-be-discovered light leaks)
- Applied PE to, and painted, the shuttle bay
- Assembled the bussards, started frosting the domes
- Run an extra wire from the motor so I can turn them on/off independent of the lights
- Sanded the saucer pieces smooth
- Painted the nacelle caps
- Assembled and painted the shuttlecraft


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Excellent work. Question on the bridge. It looks like the photoetch is sticking out in front of the bridge wall. Is that supposed to work that way, and if so did you just have to paint the photo etch and not the clear screen behind. Some pics of the shuttle and hangar would be nice too. Thanks:thumbsup:


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

The photoetch was painted and then applied. Then the rest of the bridge was painted. Then the decals were applied. I have no idea if this was the best way to do it at all! LOL

Looking back at the picture, the bridge is still shiny from the Future I applied before putting on the decals. I haven't dull coated it yet. Hmmm. Wonder if I can keep the consoles shiny while dull coating the rest...?

The photoetch is not flush to the wall in a couple of places. That's just poor execution on my part. Really hard for me to work on things that small! Fortunately, it is undetectable when the bridge is installed into the rest of the ship. 

I will light block from the back any light leaks that show up. I expect a few.

I will post some pics of the shuttle bay when I am further along with it. I just finished decal-ing the _Galileo_...I love that little ship and it came out pretty good!


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Dang--I just realized that I used the wrong upper screen decals on the bridge. I have stripped them off and will be putting the production version on later today.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

how did you mask the small screens and panels


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

The photoetch took care of that. It does the light blocking so I didn't have to do any masking at all.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> The photoetch took care of that. It does the light blocking so I didn't have to do any masking at all.


what about the holes in the photoetch for the screens and buttons? Did you paint the etch , put on the bridge, and then paint around the etch for the rest of the bridge and finally put on the decals, or put the decals on the etch before you installed it on the bridge


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jaws62666 said:


> what about the holes in the photoetch for the screens and buttons? Did you paint the etch , put on the bridge, and then paint around the etch for the rest of the bridge and finally put on the decals...


Yes. That's how I did it.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Yes. That's how I did it.


Cool thanks


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Yes. That's how I did it.


One last question, did you hand paint the bridge or airbrush


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jaws62666 said:


> One last question, did you hand paint the bridge or airbrush


Hand painted it. Couldn't see a way to do it with the airbrush.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Corrected bridge upper screens and the shuttlecraft _Galileo_. I don't know why the floor of the bridge has such a blue/green tint in this photo. It's grey.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Corrected bridge upper screens and the shuttlecraft _Galileo_. I don't know why the floor of the bridge has such a blue/green tint in this photo. It's grey.


did you have the same problem with the galileo decals, only one side had the galileo designation decal on the port side


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jaws62666 said:


> did you have the same problem with the galileo decals, only one side had the galileo designation decal on the port side


Yeah.

(I was going to write "Yes." but the forum says the message has to be at least 5 characters. LOL)


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Yeah.
> 
> (I was going to write "Yes." but the forum says the message has to be at least 5 characters. LOL)


LOL did you leave it be or use the lettering from the other shuttle decals


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jaws62666 said:


> LOL did you leave it be or use the lettering from the other shuttle decals


I left it. If I do have the shuttle parked so that a side can be seen, it will be the side with the door anyway.


----------



## asalaw (Dec 23, 2012)

Fozzie said:


> I left it. If I do have the shuttle parked so that a side can be seen, it will be the side with the door anyway.


I didn't even bother attaching the rear end piece for just that reason. Why detail something that's not going to be seen?


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

This is looking awesome Fozzie. :thumbsup:


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Looking great!


Fozzie said:


> I don't know why the floor of the bridge has such a blue/green tint in this photo. It's grey.


 It must be the camera's auto white balance compensating for the pink background.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

BUMP!

Another pic I stumbled over. More food for thought! 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/7720331082/in/set-72157623111973183

AARRGGGH isn't there a way to self-delete a post?! I am filled with SHAME!


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

In the past couple of weeks I have sealed up both nacelles and filled and sanded the seams. I am debating whether or not to paint them before attaching them to the secondary hull or after. If this was a straight build without lighting that would be an easy decision, but the lighting complicates things. How are you guys going to do it?

Additionally, I have installed all the windows in the primary and secondary hulls, cutting them up as necessary to mix black and clear windows. While I made the right-hand side match what we saw on television, I made minor modifications to that pattern on the other side as I didn't think they should be exact mirrors of one another.

I've also done a good bit of work on the clear plastic version of the shuttle bay.


----------



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I figure, once that blessed time comes (and the funding to make it happen) I won't even start until I'm able to get everything on hand, and even then probably wait about three to four months just to build up the nerve.

Then, it'll probably go:

1) Paint all the exterior surfaces the chosen shade of gray,

2) Install the windows,

3) Begin assembly and light installation simultaneously, to avoid that lovely experience where you have to tear apart the subassembly you just put together perfectly because something with the lighting had to go inside first.

4) If all has gone well, this should be a time for seam puttying, touch up painting, and prepping for decals. If not, it will be a time of much wailing and gnashing of teeth.


----------



## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

My thought on the mixing the windows...

I will be trying to use only clear windows and blacking out some from the inside.

My reasoning being that, even in a darkend room, a window is still clear.

Of course, the Enterprise could also have self-opaquing 'window blinds' :tongue:


----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Rahn said:


> My thought on the mixing the windows...
> 
> I will be trying to use only clear windows and blacking out some from the inside.
> 
> ...


That's what I plan to do, too, Rahn.

Fozzie - did you have any issues with getting the light pieces to sit flush with the outside? I did some test fitting on the upper saucer and I think I'll have to grind down the plastic on the inside to get them just right.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

RossW said:


> Fozzie - did you have any issues with getting the light pieces to sit flush with the outside? I did some test fitting on the upper saucer and I think I'll have to grind down the plastic on the inside to get them just right.


Some stick out too far, some not far enough, others sit flush. It's a mixed bag.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I found that breaking the window inserts into smaller sections really helped in getting them to sit flush


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Rahn said:


> Of course, the Enterprise could also have self-opaquing 'window blinds' :tongue:


The 787 has them.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

The nacelles have been assembled and given a light coat of primer (they'll need another). The seams took a couple of days to get right, but I'm pleased with how they came out. All hail the Flex-I-File! The nacelles feel really solid. I'm very impressed with the engineering of this kit. The extra coil of wire at the end (way longer than I'll likely need) is so that I can cut power to the motors independently of the model's lights. They will run to a separate switch in the base.

I've got all the windows in and "frosted". I also shot the insides of the saucer and neck with gloss white to bounce the light around. Hopefully I will be able to start on the lighting of the saucer later today.










I tested the lighting in the neck and it looks pretty good. I used Scotch double-sided foam mounting tape (half inch) to secure the LED tape. In addition to creating a more secure bond, it also raises the tape slightly which means that the "bend" that is introduced by the thicker clips on each end disappears entirely. Everything just seems to work better using the foam tape. I don't remember who first suggested it, but thanks!










I used a couple of pieces of the foam tape to hold the wires where I want them. This is a temporary measure, however, used for test fitting. I'll replace that with some hot glue before I seal it up.

The neck looks like it will close with nary a seam. Beautiful fit!


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Rahn said:


> My thought on the mixing the windows...
> 
> I will be trying to use only clear windows and blacking out some from the inside.
> 
> ...


I liked the look of the smoked windows so I kept them. I did paint the backs of them flat black (after installation), however.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Wiring up the saucer. I'm using foam tape to mount the LEDs and electrical tape to hold the wires in place. I put a drop of super glue on the LED clips once I had good solid connections. (Hope I don't come to regret that...)










I placed the lower saucer lights in the "inner" positions. When I tested this layout by closing up the saucer there was plenty enough light in the rim windows.

I am going to use the supplied white version of the lower planetary sensor dome. I found that the LED illuminating it produced a hot spot, however, so I placed a disc cut from thick vellum paper btw the LED and the dome. Looks MUCH better.

Working on light blocking the bridge. Nearly there...!


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Fozzie said:


> Wiring up the saucer. I'm using foam tape to mount the LEDs and electrical tape to hold the wires in place. I put a drop of super glue on the LED clips once I had good solid connections. (Hope I don't come to regret that...)


I was planning on using hot glue to try and secure the connectors.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Opus Penguin said:


> I was planning on using hot glue to try and secure the connectors.


I followed Gil Hernandez' instructions to use 5 minute epoxy for my light kit that I bought from his site for my Flying Sub.


----------



## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Opus Penguin said:


> I was planning on using hot glue to try and secure the connectors.


When I get mine, I will solder the wiring and delete those pressure type connectors. I have worked on photocopiers for 25 years and in the last 10 years or so those connectors have become common, especially with the increased use of ribbon cables. I have had to deal with more electrical faults in machines related to those type connectors than anything else.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

will hot glue burn the led bulbs or the wires?


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jaws62666 said:


> will hot glue burn the led bulbs or the wires?


No. I've used it without trouble on LEDs and wire many, many times over the years.


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> No. I've used it without trouble on LEDs and wire many, many times over the years.


Cool so when gluing the bulbs into the holder, as in the case of the bridge, do i put some glue on the prongs and then put the bulb in?


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

kenlee said:


> When I get mine, I will solder the wiring and delete those pressure type connectors. I have worked on photocopiers for 25 years and in the last 10 years or so those connectors have become common, especially with the increased use of ribbon cables. I have had to deal with more electrical faults in machines related to those type connectors than anything else.


I was leaning toward this method, but was hoping the hot glue would solve the issue. If connectors are that flaky, I may stick with soldering. I have no problem doing this, just that it is a lot more work. Every time I test the lights there is always one section out due to a connector. Based on what you have said here, I may just break down and do the soldering. I would hate to get this all together only to have a section of lights go out on me and no way to fix it.

To add more security, I can still hot glue them down after soldering to hold everything in place.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I have found that I get poor connections when a) I forget to peel the tab off the back of the LED tape (oops), and b) I don't get a good firm lock from the black locking bar. 

The key to a good connection is making sure that black bar really locks into place. It is easy to think you have it locked but you don't. There shouldn't be any gap at all when you push that bar back. And pushing on one side will kick the other side out, so push them both on simultaneously. Once you get that good and solid, it appears to hold up. I took mine and shook the string and whirled it in a circle and the lights didn't even blink--but only after I got good locks.

Once I felt good about the strings I mounted them in the model and tested them again. At this point, they won't need to be touched again Confident they were lighting solidly, I then applied a drop of glue on each of the connectors. I hope that works. I guess time will tell.


----------



## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

What did you decide about the saucer grid lines? I'll probably do away with them on the bottom, have not decided about the top.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Gary7 said:


> What did you decide about the saucer grid lines? I'll probably do away with them on the bottom, have not decided about the top.


Nothing. Am leaving them as is.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Can't remember the last time I was so nervous putting glue to something. I tested the lighting six ways past Sunday and it seems solid, so...


----------



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Can't remember the last time I was so nervous putting glue to something. I tested the lighting six ways past Sunday and it seems solid, so...


That's too funny. I just did the same exact thing today with the same fears. Ill post my pics later with another video


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

We finally got some decent weather around here and I've been taking advantage of it to light block my saucer. It has taken quite a few more coats of flat black than I expected, but I'm almost there. One of the things I did not do well on my 1:350 refit was get it completely light blocked, so I'm doing things a bit differently this time. Looking pretty good at the moment.

I also started on lighting the shuttle bay. Appears like this will be the single hardest part of the build.


----------



## Bobj812 (Jun 15, 2009)

I've read in several posts here of builders using black paint for light-blocking. I had heard that metallic paints were better since they were more opaque. I believe I'll probably use a combo of both if I get a chance to build this beast someday.
Enjoying this thread - thanks for sharing!


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Fozzie said:


> I also started on lighting the shuttle bay. Appears like this will be the single hardest part of the build.


Just finished mine and assembled the secondary hull. That shuttlebay is a TIGHT fit. I did have a small gap on top, but nothing putty, sanding, and a lot of elbow work didn't cure. It is looking good enough for me so far. I actually found this harder than the bridge, which I didn't expect. But all-in-all I enjoy the results and I am sure you will too when you get it done.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Opus Penguin said:


> Just finished mine and assembled the secondary hull. That shuttlebay is a TIGHT fit. I did have a small gap on top, but nothing putty, sanding, and a lot of elbow work didn't cure. It is looking good enough for me so far. I actually found this harder than the bridge, which I didn't expect. But all-in-all I enjoy the results and I am sure you will too when you get it done.


I've been test fitting it all along, making sure the secondary hull will still come together without a huge gap. I have the back 5 lights installed but haven't put the top ones in yet. 

Earlier today I took the clear version of part 27, applied the photo-etch mask to it, put the vinyl mask over the window area...and then promptly lost it. My kids spent 30 minutes going through the room to no avail. I have spent probably 3x that much time to no avail. It simply disappeared. I took the opaque version of the part off the sprue a little while ago and will try to drill out the window. Damn, but I can't believe I lost that part!


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Got a lot done this weekend. As the sun starts to set on my free time, I have the main saucer and nacelles both built, light blocked, primed, and ready for the final top coat of paint.

Over the next week I'll turn my attention to the shuttle bay and the secondary hull. It would be nice if I could have it ready for light blocking by next weekend.


----------



## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Fozzie said:


> Earlier today I took the clear version of part 27, applied the photo-etch mask to it, put the vinyl mask over the window area...and then promptly lost it. My kids spent 30 minutes going through the room to no avail. I have spent probably 3x that much time to no avail. It simply disappeared. I took the opaque version of the part off the sprue a little while ago and will try to drill out the window. Damn, but I can't believe I lost that part!


I feel your pain. I have come close to losing about three small parts already. Sad part is ... you will probably find it after you finish the model.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> Sad part is ... you will probably find it after you finish the model.


Sometimes pretending I've finished the model helps. It relaxes me, so I sometimes see things I've overlooked.

... assuming it's actually there, of course.


----------



## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

I got you beat, I lost the Starboard Nacelle Support Pylon. You can at least close in your shuttle bay if your mods to the opaque window piece dosen't work out. The only thing I can do is make a scout ship out of the remaining parts. 

No I don't plan on making one either so don't anybody think about asking me for my spare nacelle.:jest:

I put in a request into Round 2 for replacement parts last Friday, I even sent a money order to cover the cost of the replacements.

I have lost many a part over the years and yes they always show up when you don't need them.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

enterprise_fan said:


> I got you beat, I lost the Starboard Nacelle Support Pylon. You can at least close in your shuttle bay if your mods to the opaque window piece dosen't work out. The only thing I can do is make a scout ship out of the remaining parts.


Sorry to hear about that! That's major.

The mod to the opaque window piece came out nicely. It should do the job.


----------



## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Bobj812 said:


> I've read in several posts here of builders using black paint for light-blocking. I had heard that metallic paints were better since they were more opaque. I believe I'll probably use a combo of both if I get a chance to build this beast someday.
> Enjoying this thread - thanks for sharing!


I prefer to hand brush the interior black rather than use any spray or airbrush on the exterior (or interior for that matter) as I feel the coats are simply too thin for the purposes of blocking light.

Plus those extra coats of paint on the outside can increase any texture of the paint and possibly obscure detail (not really that big of a problem on this subject though).

Since its a good idea to paint the interior with either white or silver anyway, why not just do the black as well.


----------



## Bobj812 (Jun 15, 2009)

Oh, I'm a fan of pre-shading so I would use black for sure. I had just heard that metallic paints block light the best, so I would use that on the inside.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I'm about ready to seal up the secondary hull, but before I did that I wanted to make a practice run of feeding all the wires where they will eventually go to make sure everything is going to work out. I was particularly worried about the wires coming from the pylons (power and one to control the motor in the nacelle) and if I was going to be able to fish them out after feeding them into the secondary hull. Also, I wanted to make sure I would be able to run the power wire and motor control wires out through the bottom and into the support rod. In order to test all of this I essentially did a test assembly.










Thanks to a long crochet hook borrowed from my wife, I was able to snare the pylon wires without too much difficulty. I was able to route all the other wires as I planned to as well. Whew!

The primary hull and nacelles are all wired, light blocked, primed, and ready for their final coat. Satisfied with how things will go together, I will now glue the secondary hull together, apply the window masks, and start with the light blocking and priming.


----------



## weird (Jul 24, 2007)

Looks really nice.

I used a twist tie that I bent to a hook shape, and taped it to a long thing screwdriver to fish the nacelle wires.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Great progress Fozzie. She's coming together. :thumbsup:


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

ClubTepes said:


> I prefer to hand brush the interior black rather than use any spray or airbrush on the exterior (or interior for that matter) as I feel the coats are simply too thin for the purposes of blocking light.


I agree. On the inside, we can lay it on thick (maybe using tube paints or modelling paste, even), then go as thin as we want on the outside to keep detail.


----------



## Uxi (Feb 11, 2013)

I haven't built my refit yet but following this with great interest. In my dreams, I would like to have 4 x 1/350's all side by side (CAGE version, TOS, TMP Refit and 1701-A with the DLM STV shuttle bay)...


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Two factors have really slowed me down. The first is terrible painting weather where I live, and the second is how difficult it was to get rid of all the light leaks around the shuttle bay. Today, however, I was finally satisfied that I have no more light leaks in the secondary hull. The next step will be to prime it with white primer and sand it smooth. At this point, I'll have all 3 major sub-assemblies ready for painting.

I've already painted the deflector dish as shown in the photo below. Even though I originally said I wasn't going to go with the silver-colored spike, I painted one of the 3 provided silver and really liked it.










Slow progress, but I'm determined to do a better job on this ship than I did on my refit which suffered from numerous light leaks due to my inexperience lighting models back then.


----------



## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Fozzie said:


> Slow progress, but I'm determined to do a better job on this ship than I did on my refit which suffered from numerous light leaks due to my inexperience lighting models back then.


Hmm ... I think I'll do the TOS before I do the Refit. I'm not very adept with lighting either. The last time I lit a kit was the old *Aurora* Enterprise. Two grain-of-wheats and a C-cell, if I recall.

Thanks for the updates, Fozzie!


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

You've done your light blocking the way I'm used to doing it. I've always painted the outside black. Did you do the same on the saucer? If so, then did you lose some of the crispness of the grid lines?


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> You've done your light blocking the way I'm used to doing it. I've always painted the outside black. Did you do the same on the saucer? If so, then did you lose some of the crispness of the grid lines?


Yes, I did (see msg #43 for a picture). It is really hard to say what effect this has had on the grid lines. After the black went on, I primed the ship white and then sanded it smooth. I can see the grid lines quite clearly (black against the white), however, I can just _barely _feel them when I run my fingers over the saucer. It's going to be quite interesting to see what I get when I start painting! I'll be using Model Master Light Gray (4765) acrylic as my hull color.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Hmmm.... How'd I miss that post? 

Looks good though. I look forward to seeing how it turns out.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I've started painting the base coat--Model Master Light Grey acrylic. I really, really like how this is coming out! It looks like the color I remember from my youth.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Painting is pretty much done. I am giving it a coat of Future to protect the paint before I start final assembly.

I don't find either of these photos do a good job of showing the actual base color. It isn't as dark as shown in the nacelle shot, nor quite as white as shown in the secondary hull shot.


----------



## idman (Apr 11, 2004)

Opus Penguin said:


> Just finished mine and assembled the secondary hull. That shuttlebay is a TIGHT fit. I did have a small gap on top, but nothing putty, sanding, and a lot of elbow work didn't cure. It is looking good enough for me so far. I actually found this harder than the bridge, which I didn't expect. But all-in-all I enjoy the results and I am sure you will too when you get it done.


Fozzie did you use ca or 5min epoxy to close the gap of the shuttlebay


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

idman said:


> Fozzie did you use ca or 5min epoxy to close the gap of the shuttlebay


Neither. I got it as tight as I could then, after it was sealed up, put some Perfect Plastic Putty into the remaining gaps using a syringe.


----------



## idman (Apr 11, 2004)

Fozzie said:


> Neither. I got it as tight as I could then, after it was sealed up, put some Perfect Plastic Putty into the remaining gaps using a syringe.


I haven't closed mine up yet but the shuttlebay area is tight and won't close up completely trying to figure out what to use on it so it wont split open, ca or epoxy. there will be a gap but like you said putty will solve that


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

idman said:


> I haven't closed mine up yet but the shuttlebay area is tight and won't close up completely trying to figure out what to use on it so it wont split open, ca or epoxy. there will be a gap but like you said putty will solve that


I was able to hold it closed with regular styrene glue but I didn't light it (except for the fantail lights) so it wasn't as big a problem.


----------



## idman (Apr 11, 2004)

Fozzie said:


> I was able to hold it closed with regular styrene glue but I didn't light it (except for the fantail lights) so it wasn't as big a problem.


Should have done it that way but the wife wanted me to put in the the hangar deck so she could see the shuttle so the r and q harness along with the clear parts makes it hard to close it up


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> I was able to hold it closed with regular styrene glue but I didn't light it (except for the fantail lights) so it wasn't as big a problem.


My plan exactly.


----------



## Robman007 (Jan 23, 2013)

Fozzie said:


> I've been test fitting it all along, making sure the secondary hull will still come together without a huge gap. I have the back 5 lights installed but haven't put the top ones in yet.
> 
> Earlier today I took the clear version of part 27, applied the photo-etch mask to it, put the vinyl mask over the window area...and then promptly lost it. My kids spent 30 minutes going through the room to no avail. I have spent probably 3x that much time to no avail. It simply disappeared. I took the opaque version of the part off the sprue a little while ago and will try to drill out the window. Damn, but I can't believe I lost that part!


I lost one of my shuttlecraft warp engines while working on it. Just disappeared into the rug. Kinda frustrating.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Robman007 said:


> I lost one of my shuttlecraft warp engines while working on it. Just disappeared into the rug. Kinda frustrating.


That missing part showed up weeks later. I was in the kitchen getting breakfast when I heard something hit the floor. I looked down and there it was. How in the hell...? Well, the best I can figure is that it got caught up in the folds of my robe somehow (or fell into the pocket?) and just rode along until it fell out onto the kitchen floor. Of course by then I had used the opaque kit part and drilled it out, installed it, painted it, etc.


----------



## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

The modeling gods have very twisted senses of humor.

I lost one of my prized Preiser 1/350 merchant seamen. After a thorough sweep visually (to no avail) I did a thorough sweeping (with the broom.)

The collected materials await in a bag until I get up the ambition to sift through it (literally.) And it's probably somewhere else.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

idman said:


> Should have done it that way but the wife wanted me to put in the the hangar deck so she could see the shuttle so the r and q harness along with the clear parts makes it hard to close it up


You can consider yourself a lucky guy. If it was my wife, she would not want to see even the Enterprise. Much less the shuttles.


----------



## idman (Apr 11, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> You can consider yourself a lucky guy. If it was my wife, she would not want to see even the Enterprise. Much less the shuttles.


I do she's the one who bought the kit..for me for Christmas


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Put the last coat of Future on a little while ago. I'll let it sit now till the weekend when I'll start putting the three major sub-assemblies together. Can't wait! :thumbsup:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Put the last coat of Future on a little while ago. I'll let it sit now till the weekend when I'll start putting the three major sub-assemblies together. *Can't wait!* :thumbsup:


Me, neither!


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I still need to unmask all the windows, the bridge, the navigation lights, etc., hook up all the wires, put on the decals, etc. but it's starting to look like a starship at last!


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Got it all wired up and...hooray! All the light and motor circuits appear to be working.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This part of the job, when you turn on the switch to see if everything will lit up, is terrifying. :freak:


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

idman said:


> Originally Posted by *Fernando Mureb*
> You can consider yourself a lucky guy. If it was my wife, she would not want to see even the Enterprise. Much less the shuttles.​
> I do she's the one who bought the kit..for me for Christmas


What?! Man, this is so unfair...


----------



## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

Looking beautiful Fozzie, keep those pictures coming:thumbsup:


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I used the black bridge dome and the blue navigation light parts as "masks" during painting. Those are gone now and replaced with the clear bridge dome and the proper color navigation lights. Coming along nicely...!

I have another set of bussard caps which I am going to frost much more heavily than the ones currently on the model.


----------



## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Removed by author.


----------



## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Removed by author.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

LOL! They do it on purpose, just to annoy us.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Duplicate post (sorry!).


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

A few thoughts now that I've got the model to the assembled and lighting stage...

First, I'm not all that fond of the yellow lighting for the windows. I know it is accurate to what they used back in the 60's, but it just doesn't look right to my eyes. Of course, I replaced all the "yellow" lighting in my house with daylight bulbs years ago because I can't stand yellow tinted lighting, so I'm going into it with a bias, I guess.

Secondly, I'm very happy with the job I did on light leaks! I attacked that VERY aggressively, on this model after a less than satisfactory job on my first big lighted model the _Enterprise _refit. I painted this one black after the sub-assemblies were done and, while it made getting an even light-colored base coat a challenge, it really helped me find and eliminate all the light leaks.

I thought I was done with my bussard domes but--wow--all of a sudden they don't look nearly frosted enough to me anymore. Gonna have to look at those again. 

I have the clear dome over the bridge and it looks fantastic when you peer inside, but the lower lighted dome looks so good that I can see where going with the white bridge dome would be equally impressive. It looks more accurate (not to mention symmetrical) to use the white dome, but it is hard to pass up showing off that tiny bridge!

Finally, Round 2 did a good job with the light kit. I find the windows are just a little too bright, but overall the intensity is good. After some people reporting poor results with the red and green blinking navigation lights, I'm pleased that mine seem to be lighting up pretty well. There is an angle here and there that they don't look very bright, but, overall, it is satisfactory.

Next steps: a little painting repair work here & there to fix up some scratches and nicks and then decal work!


----------



## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

Fozzie said:


> A few thoughts now that I've got the model to the assembled and lighting stage...
> 
> First, I'm not all that fond of the yellow lighting for the windows. I know it is accurate to what they used back in the 60's, but it just doesn't look right to my eyes. Of course, I replaced all the "yellow" lighting in my house with daylight bulbs years ago because I can't stand yellow tinted lighting, so I'm going into it with a bias, I guess.
> 
> ...


 I take it you did not paint the inside first to help with light leaks? Did you use the clear or white windows? I'm like you, I think that white would look better. I'm still have not got past the planning stage on mine. Every weekend I have had off for months have been busy. I might have to take a week off to just work on it.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Gary7 said:


> I take it you did not paint the inside first to help with light leaks? Did you use the clear or white windows? I'm like you, I think that white would look better. I'm still have not got past the planning stage on mine. Every weekend I have had off for months have been busy. I might have to take a week off to just work on it.


I did paint selected areas on both the inside and the outside. I wanted to try the "paint the outside" method (first time) on this build and am pleased with the results.

I used the clear windows and the smoked windows in most places. However, I used the white plastic for the lower sensor dome, the two aft navigation lights, and (once my replacement parts arrive), the 4 large windows on the top of the saucer.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Wow, Fozzie! You're really doing great work on her. She's coming together nicely.


----------



## Kevin Reilly (Apr 24, 2013)

*Possible "light leak" preventer...*

I don't have the skill level that you master-builders do here, but while reading through all theses posts about the "Big E", light leaks seems to be a big issue.

I haven't built a quality model kit in over 30 years, but I _have_ restored a couple of 1/1 scale "full-size" cars in the meantime.
When refurbishing tail-light assemblies, the edges of the lenses are pressed into "rope caulk", better known as "dum-dum", a black gooey string of rubbery squishy caulk. It is easily squeezed into conformity, and i'm thinking it might be good to apply inside the model around seams and other light-leaking areas.

Anyone else ever used something like this with success, or am I a "dum-dum" for considering it?


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Honestly there is not the need to go overboard trying to stop light leaks. A coat of Tamiya silver leaf spray paint inside OR outside over the finished model will take care of it. I used to overdo it, especially on the inside, but really it is not that hard to block out light/prevent glowing plastic.


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I've been holding off on doing the decals for weeks now, but, today, I finally took the plunge. I shouldn't have worried. This was probably the most problem-free decal-ing job I've done in years. Everything went great!



















I was really worried about the carrier film showing through on my light grey base coat, but it's practically invisible--nice!

I still have a few minor things to do to finish her up--including some further frosting of the nacelle domes--but she is looking great!


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Wow that looks Awesome !


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Working on my display...


----------



## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

Absolutely fantastic thanks for sharing your builds :thumbsup:


----------

