# Rumblings Out West



## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

I had gooed myself onto a corner and all current projects were curing. So Weds night after Chat I opened up a fresh pack of blades. The following reflects the ensuing carnage.  

Pic 1 - Here we see a crusty yellow deuce that had simmered for several days in easy off to remove a good mile of blue paint. The left rear fender had to be barbecued with my bic and straightened. It finally flattened out! Not much to look at but she's hiding something!

Pic 2 - The front and side trunk seams were painstakingly scribed out. The lower seam of the rumble was determined from A Model "A" website and scribed out in it's natural position well above the lower trunk seam. This allowed some of the rear screw post to be salvaged.

Pic 3 - Lousy pic! but you get the idea. I'd like to have the lid drop a little lower, however the floor of the rumble compartment will determine the final position of the lid as the seat back and bottom must come together correctly when opened.

Pic 4 - A front stop was made from a Ferrari 250 GTO rocker panel. It'll probably get thinned a bit later 

Pic 5 - Shows the pivot/slider bar. It was made from the other Ferrari rocker and functions like one slat of a roll top desk. It will be hidden by the seat backrest down the road. 

It should be noted that without the efforts of Boss' and his pevious R&D efforts; this rumble rod would never have materialized. Thanks Phil! :wave: 

More to follow. See next post.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Rumble notes*

Pic 1 - Gives you an idea of whats left of the rear post. Triangular side reinforcement gussets will be gooed in when I fill the backside of the rear apron. This is SOP on my modified deuces as the rear apron is notoriously thin and therefore problematic. The gussets and rear fill will be easy. They will be bonded in one continuous float. 

If you squint a bit you can see the inner guides for the rumble. They mirror the fender shape and have an arched relief slot along the top. The guides were made from the Ferrari GTO roof. 

Pic 2 - Of course chassis mods are required! They are minimal. The rear frame rails are notched out to the rear gearplate index slot flush with the rear deck. The tail of the gear plate gets a 60 degree undercut.

Next on the to do list is the forward panel of the rumble compartment, floor, and seat upholstery. I've still got half a ferrari left.  LOL!

After the rumble is complete the body will get the usual side fill treatment, a rear drop axle chassis, and I'm leaning towards a convertible "top up" look for a lid.

So far I've got four hours in this tub.


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Bill- I've been thinking about doing a rumble seat car. You've beat me to the punch! Looks good.

Jim


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

My skill level does not warrent this kind of slot car choppage.
Nice work Bill.


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## Wingless Wonder (Aug 26, 2006)

Looking good! :thumbsup:


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

very nice Bill... ever think about covering the back of the seat with a little thin fabric?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Thanx Guyz!*



videojimmy said:


> very nice Bill... ever think about covering the back of the seat with a little thin fabric?


VJ- I had thought about fabric; but at some point my rigs go through the car wash for grease and grungous removal, as I do run them all. My stuff has to be wash and wear! LOL

I had planned on cutting up an old leather belt to investigate the possibilities for seating. Sort of a Jr High leather craft project. I magine I can still pound some tuck and roll pleats into some hide with out screwing it up. Vinyl was the obvious water proof choice but resists tooling impressions. I'll probably fudge a few attemts before I figure it out. I had also considered felt as this would mimic the old school factory mohair interiors. Too many choices. :freak: 

Ed- My skill level either bud! I just keep cutting till it looks right or disappears
into a vat of goo. Gets rid of the evidence dont 'cha know! I never post my failures. They just get cut up for sectional rerpairs, or rendered down and sprayed on another car.  

Wingless- Thanks for the props! The hard part is behind me.

Jim- Actually I'm just standing on Phil's (Boss) shoulders on this one. He showed me the way by sacrificing an old Hotrod for the original rumble seat R&D. The tedious part is scribing out the rumble lid with out screwing up the seams. The frustrating part was designing the inboard guide tracks and keeping them identical so the lid doesnt sag to one side or the other.

Works good so far with just a light poke from your finger.

Hint: The relief in the tracks must extend well forward of the normal operating position to allow easy install and removal of the lid. As the lid moves forward the body widens out and you can pivot the lid for removal. I just got lucky there. Such will not be the case once the rumble compartment floor is installed on final assembly, as the lid will more than likely be captive. For now it provides the luxury of removing the lid while the rest of the body work is completed and access for spraying color inside and out. I was also fortunate the the pivot placement is ballanced properly over center so that the lid doesnt fly open when you accelerate or slam shut when you hit the brakes. I wouldnt want Reggie and Veronica to be decapitated when Archie pounds the brakes instead of the clutch cuz he was checkin' Betty's sweater.  

Saftey first :thumbsup:


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bill,

That is Sweet! I'm inspired and going to my work area right now to work on a slot car. Well first just gonna stretch out on the couch and watch T.V. for a bit.

I have never used Easy Off before. Will try it. I use Pine Sol in a pickle jar or ELO (Easy Lift Off from the hobby store). I have removed paint off of my AW green and white Camaro but, the green paint still leaves a trace of tint....Hmmm to get an all white AW body maybe Easy Off will work? White cars always POP the decals and don't leave that fade through look like darker colors sometimes do.

Thanks, Bob


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Bill, that's AWESOME...

and a nice side note about this project, for others who might want to try it: if you can't get hold of an original Aurora Hot Rod or if you don't have the stones to cut one up (I did once, dunno if I still would) you can use a Dash Motorsports body. You got me thinking about locating one of them...

But lemme get this straight... this thing is gonna be functional?!? wow. I'd be impressed even if it was just glued in the open position.

By the way, for removing old paint from original Aurora bodies, have you ever tried **** N Span? It's been a while since I sang it's praises here, but it works wonders...










(sorry to those who have seen this pic a bazillion times :wave: )

--rick


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Rick - High praise from the Dremel Master. Thank you! 

Yes it's a fully functional rumble. :thumbsup:

Now for the record: All my deuce hacks are shells deemed unfit by others!
They all have some supposed catastrophic flaw that makes them undesirable to collectors. 

It only took a couple hours on two different evenings to build the rumble. However I've been agonizing it it my mind for a couple of months prior to picking up my blade. 

I will now hang my head in shame.  Like the dipstick I am, I didn't make any templates for the guide rails. I generally work freehand. I've learned most patterns never work out anyway due to some pretty large variances from car to car. The pieces have to be hand filed to attain the fit I like any way. 

Regardless of my lame excuses, I should have made patterns; but when I'm on a roll and the chips are flying I hate to break stride just to scribble a little picture. D'oh! 

Yes I remember these **** and Span pics and the "oh my gawd I muttered" under my breath. They really cant turn out much better than those two! 

I use **** and span as well. I've found that there were/are so many different paints and brands that no one product is a magic wand. I don't jump straight to easy off. I have a least to most toxic procedure list that I follow. Gotta get good and mad first then I bring out the highly caustic stuff.
 

As many have noted the easy off will, not might..."will" brittle-ize styrene! So do most cleaners on the "base" end of the PH scale. 

Like Gear Buster sez, "If it can clean the grease off the shop floor, consider what it sucks out of your car bodies." GB was referring to Superclean at the time. 

However my liquid styrene techniques tend to soften the bodies somewhat prior to curing. The end result is noticeably supple when compared to an easy offed body. It's a curious and positive by product of the process. Seems to revitalize even the crispiest cars.

Woah Bob! Easy off has a nasty habit of driving some pigments into the pores of the plastic. Especially lighter colors. Proceed with caution. When it does occur I try to carefully wet sand the offending pigment out. I've wondered if a Sonic cleaner would rattle out the remaining pigment from the pores???

BTW I do all my wet sanding from the couch. Some of my best stuff is couch inspired! LOL


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

This car is going to be so sweet when it is completed, Bill!
I don't understand the agonizing over it though. You said yourself that if it doesn't work out well, then you simply make parts or billrene out of it. You could also repair it too. Small job with all of your skill, eh!

Will this car be yellow when done or will it get a different color sprayed on?
I really like your leather idea, too! In my minds eye, I can see light tan leather against the yellow. Very cool! :thumbsup:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

The rumbler is gonna be our favorite color Joe.  

I'm gonna cook up an old vibe controller and try spraying that.

I've got a hankerin' to do some S'Lime green too. Currently trolling for one of those weirdo dump trucks in mediocre condition for a meltdown.

Picture a coupe done in Slime with some AFX fenders seamlessly molded on. Just popped into my head yesterday. 

Perhaps I've lost my mind but the ideas keep coming, and I cant stop whittling. 

Still havent tried the brighter yellow from the daredevil stuff yet. You may like that better than the creamy yellow. I'll get a test shot up this week sometime.


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## coach61 (Sep 6, 2004)

ParkRNDL said:


> (sorry to those who have seen this pic a bazillion times :wave: )
> 
> --rick


But Rick it has inspried me a bazillion times.. Post it anytimes its a classic display of what can be done with a vetern slot car.


Dave


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

ParkRNDL said:



> Bill, that's AWESOME...
> 
> and a nice side note about this project, for others who might want to try it: if you can't get hold of an original Aurora Hot Rod or if you don't have the stones to cut one up (I did once, dunno if I still would) you can use a Dash Motorsports body. You got me thinking about locating one of them...
> 
> ...


**** N Span is now on my shopping list. Thanks! 

Just got another easy and fast shipped order from Slots n Stuff after work tonight. Always smooth. Put a chassis under 1 of the 2 clear bodies ordered. Is this cool or what? 












































Again very nice rumble seat on a very cool car! :thumbsup: Bob


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Interesting study!*

Thanks Bob! 

I've always been sweet on Aurora's Hot Rod. Just like the 1:1 Deuce, which has been customized every which way but loose over the last 75yrs; it suddenly dawned on me that one could hardly go wrong with mods to the Aurora Deuce. It's a simple design that readily lends itself to butchery. The whole thing started when I restored an old flatside vibrator and saw some potential for mischief. The ideas now come quicker than I can build them.

I never thought to buy one of those clear "Dash" re-pops for R&D. After seeing your post and pics it would have made life a little easier. The clear shell really provides X-ray vision into issues like how far you can go with post cutting before the gearplate binds? Whether or not the rumble seat was possible? Could I really get a flatside deuce body on a shaved T-jet chassis?

All moot points now as I just used the ole third eye, but it sure would have been nice to have the clear version at the time! D'oh! :freak: 

I've still got a hankerin' to whittle up one of those ABS Dash versions when nobody is lookin' :devil:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Updates*

Here's some detail pics and recent updates.

Pic 1 - Shows the the inner rumble guides bonded to the inside of the rear fender. Note the double thickness.

The rear gusset supports what's left of the screw post and reinforces the notoriously weak rear apron.

Pic 2 - You can clearly see how the lid sits when open. The rear chassis rails provide a fixed stop for the lid. This pic illustrates the required gearplate bevel and gives a good idea of where the rear wheels sit on the drop axle chassis.

Pic 3 - Still a little rough, but a good indicator of how the rear post is cut so the lid can sneak by. Obviously the screw is shortened. It holds quite well inspite of its appearance. The rear post, support gusset, guide tracks, rear apron, and inner fenders are all one continuous bond. After surviving a couple of major tumbles it's proven to be rock solid!

Pic 4 - Here's a good look at the relief cut on top of the guide track. Nuthin fancy here. It's just got to smooth and equal height on either side.

Pic 5 - There she sits. LMAO when I cropped this shot. There's a bit of extra fill on the hood that'll have to be cut back to drop the snout. The side fills are roughed in. I'd like to drop the tail a bit more, but that'll move the gear plate up into the area I left for the rumble compartment floor/filler.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Your craftsmanship work is just plain Sweet! You got some skills. Bob

I did some work on a AFX woodie but, Bruce Gavins has if for a bit now. It kinda looks like a phone booth pickup truck. I would also like to make one of these without the wood grain. Someday.... Chopping up the Woodie intailed more than I thought it would once started because, I don't like to do anything half ars. Bob


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Hello Operator? Dial AFX-COOL! Please*

Thanks Bob,

Just when ya thought ya'd seen it all. That's one "phine phone booth Phord". That's a great way to use the Woody's height.

I can see it as a pick up or a coupe. 

I dont see why a guy couldnt scribe the panels out on the corners and flip the panels inside out if you want to go smooth side out for a woodless phone booth. I think that's a great idea.

Ha ha ! Looks like your gonna have to do four versions now. A coupe, and a pick up in both smooth and wood.

Here's a shot of a Woody I killed a while back, sorry to the folks who have seen it 8000 times already.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bill Hall said:


> Thanks Bob,
> 
> Just when ya thought ya'd seen it all. That's one "phine phone booth Phord". That's a great way to use the Woody's height.
> 
> ...


O.K. everyone else has seen your woody 8000 times but, this is a first for me. Sweet! If I win the lottery I want one of those.  

It is nice to see other peoples stuff as it gives you an idea of what can be done.

I also have all my Dads Hot Rod Mags from the 60s and 70s that I look at alot. Have also been able to pick up older mags fairly cheap at Auctions and swap meets. Old is good.  

I found this Yellow Model A on the bay in a junk body lot and it was dirty and looked like nothing. Cleaned it up and added Mooneyes to it. The front rims need to be redone. I just painted over the JL pull-back chrome. Going to strip the chrome off and air brush them for a clean look. The crappy rim edge does have one thing going for it. you can paint it white and make the allusion of white walls....Yeah baby! The top is not glued on...it just has the glass holding it in. See my gallery for pics...

Bob


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Looking good guys...*

Some mighty fine jalopy-choppin goin on roun'hyar Bob&Bill :dude: :dude: 

BTW..... Bill, I have used nylon stocking material for HO hotrod tonneau covers before. Maybe it could work for the fabric on your rumble seat? Either applied or even used to "imprint" a putty like surface. 

But stay away from the fishnets... That's a whole other kind of HO and only "certain guys" can pull off *that* look!!!!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

tjd241 said:


> ..... snip*.....But stay away from the fishnets... That's a whole other kind of HO and only "certain guys" can pull off *that* look!!!!


'Nuther Dave: I've still got the gams for it. It's the stilletto heels I have trouble with! :tongue: Frightening mental picture, aye? :freak: 

I'll remember to kype some stockings the next time I rifle Robin's skivvie drawer. Thanks for the upholstery tip!


Bob: I love the chopped lid on that yellow coupe. If you wander in the wayback of the "Members Customs" thread by Sethanddaddy you'll see Gear Buster's nifty chop top "A" body. Worth a look! Check out the nifty grill conversion.

Your so right Bob, other peoples work is very inspiring. Problem is that it adds to my "wants" and "to do" lists.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bill Hall said:


> 'Nuther Dave: I've still got the gams for it. It's the stilletto heels I have trouble with! :tongue: Frightening mental picture, aye? :freak:
> 
> I'll remember to kype some stockings the next time I rifle Robin's skivvie drawer. Thanks for the upholstery tip!
> 
> ...


You people are all wacked in the head. stilletto heels...he,he,he....

Just my kinda place. If I had to come here and act all Normal and stuff....that wouldn't be any fun.  :roll:  

I will be back, Bob


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Bill Hall said:


> 'Nuther Dave: I've still got the gams for it. It's the stilletto heels I have trouble with! :tongue: Frightening mental picture, aye? :freak:


 ....

That'll mess my mind up for years Bill.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Whoops! I did it again.....*



joez870 said:


> This car is going to be so sweet when it is completed, Bill!
> I don't understand the agonizing over it though. You said yourself that if it doesn't work out well, then you simply make parts or billrene out of it. You could also repair it too. Small job with all of your skill, eh!
> 
> Will this car be yellow when done or will it get a different color sprayed on?
> I really like your leather idea, too! In my minds eye, I can see light tan leather against the yellow. Very cool! :thumbsup:


Thanks Joe, In spite of triple a quadruple screening the factory creamy yellow always seems to have an inclusion of some sort. It only takes one little booger to upset my little OCD world.  

I'll get it eventually. I've got to come up with something finer than 200 mesh, at that point the mix will have to be super thin to pass through the screen and then evaporated back to a sprayable form. :thumbsup: 

As I had originally threatened a while back , I finally chopped up an old vibe controller. :devil: 

Actually just the removable base that was cracked. It got scrubbed, diced and cooked on Saturday.

While the batch was cooking, a windshield was whittled up out of an old Camaro backglass and slot fit like the red highboy. If you look close you'll notice that the slot and dash filler are curved to accommodate the curved windshield. After it was blocked with 2000 I hammered the green to it!

You're looking at three or four coats. It's really not about how many coats, but more about coverage and uniform film build. It may look like a lot when you spray it but it sucks up tight and thin. If you spray to thin/dry you'll get mass peel. By the time it hits the surface it's already mud/tacky. The quick flash threw me off on the highboy but I learned to let it rip. It's counterintuitive to everything I know about spraying paint.  

For example, I spray at 20 psi with the mix screw WFO! Try that with conventional paint in an airbrush, hammer down three fat coats in quick succession and it'll look like gravy running off your meatloaf.  

This is crazy stuff, but every shot gets a little easier. The shine is awesome. If there is a minor flaw it can be cut off with 2000, buffed and polished like any old school Aurora car! I will never conventionally paint another slot again. I have so many ideas cookin' right now, but one on the top of the list is blending purple. Purple scrap is "unobtainium"! Red and blue are still fairly common. Hmmmmmm?!

I also pounded the first top coat on Old Blue Saturday, again really more like three or four passes never allowing it to set up. Always wet on wet! Check out how tight it shrinks up in the pic.


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Bill - I am just amazed at how the joints and finishes are coming out in these cars. I have just started getting the hang of the testors scrape and paste method and now you are spraying the stuff. My sanding is still atrocious but the testors covers it up. How are you melting the cars and other plastic? How do you keep the goop liquid? Are you buying testos by the gallon? An I assume keeping the nozzle WFO is an extremely technical term for wide open?
Jim


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Hi Jim,

The speed limit in Texas is, wide fully open.

Glad to hear your making progress. Yes, I agree the detail sanding can be a pain in the neck I take extra time to avoid it whenever possible. 

This is easy. Take the styrene, be it a car, controller, bridge piers, whatever and remove tampos, silvering, glass, glue, grease and dirt. Scrub it good with cleanser or degreaser. When it's dry, take your ***** or wire cutters and cut it up so the pieces can fit easily through the mouth of an empty testors bottle. I try to keep the pieces uniform to some degree, but dont get crazy about it. Then enough testors is added to cover the chunks. Put the lid on and walk away for 24 hrs. 

You now have brushable styrene filler. If your brush doesnt glide or sticks while applying add more testors to the mix with an eye dropper. I go in multiples of five drops, until it glides on properly. It has a self leveling nature and I use this quirk to avoid sanding in the tight or impossible to sand areas.

Please mix some up and try it Jim! The scrape and poke method is agonizing by comparison. We're talking night and day difference. As I've said before watch a women lacquer her nails, the brushable technique goes on exactly like that! You'll get a better idea of how to float this stuff around.

The mix stays fairly liquid when compared to the little scrapings of the stone age technique. I dont deny that you have to move fairly quick, but not rattle snake fast. I always keep a bottle of clean testors open when working, so I can quickly add some solvent if something clods up on me. In general once it's down that's it! More often than not you do more damage trying to fix a booboo rather than letting it cure and working it out prior to the next layer.

Like regular 1:1 body work there will be imperfections, pin holes, lumps, and wobbles. In each successive layer the imperfections are massaged out til it's straight. You're just using the original plastic instead of dissimilar fillers.

Perhaps when I learn how to use my camera better I'll make a little ditty showing some of the hows. Contact me any time Jim.

Bill


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

That green is killer, Bill! I LOVE it! Hmmmm...now fade into black for the lowers? hehehe..... Wish I knew how to airbrush.....wish I knew how to get Billrene into a shaky can!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*El Junko!*

Thanks Joe, knew you'd groove on the green. It'll actually be darker after a few more coats. The creamy yellow base is still shining through. I'm stoked to see what the "dare-devil" yellow looks like but I dont even have the car built. LOL!

I dont now how to airbrush either!  

I put the goo in the cup, airline to the regulator, and pull the trigger.

Whichever end the stuff flies out of, that's the end I point at the little car.

(learned that part from Gear Buster)

I clean it out as soon as I'm done.

I run mine on my shop air system and choke it down through an "airbrush only" regulator. That just means I have an odd ball coupling on the regulator out put and the airbrush input. That way I dont inadvertanly hook the little fellow straight to 140 psi line pressure. :freak: 

Mines an " El Junko" brand that I got at a garage sale for two bucks. 
I spray everything through it - acrylics, enamels, lacquers, epoxies, and now styrene. If it's a little job that requires control and a light touch there is no question. 

I'd love to be able to justify the $200-$300 Badger or Iwata unit again, sold mine off a while back. I just need something that gives me a small enough pattern. El Junko suits me fine.


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Bll Thanks for adding the "how to" create resin based jars of goop. This has got to be easier than the melt & scrape method. I could see having jars of aurora's primary colors for my restoration work. 

The airbrush test (whichever end the stuff flies out of) sounds messy! Especially WFO!

Jim


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Jim,... you got mail!


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

Bill Hall said:


> Thanks Bob,
> 
> Just when ya thought ya'd seen it all. That's one "phine phone booth Phord". That's a great way to use the Woody's height.
> 
> ...


I hate to say this BUT, I like your wood Bill, lol.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

sethndaddy said:


> I hate to say this BUT, I like your wood Bill, lol.


I'm not sure I'll ever recover from this one Ed! LMAO eternally.  

That's just wrong on so many levels that I'm speechless. :freak: 

You served a perfect tomato for the swatting, yet a cant bring myself to crush it.  

Love you to man, but your not getting my Bud light! :tongue:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Weekend update*

Managed to get a little bit done.

The windshield was shaped and prefit when the dash filler was installed. The Camaro back glass was flipped upside down. A relief was filed across the base where the glass meets the reshaped cowl. It was a perfect fit width wise and I just liked the curvature anyway. 

I cut back the top coat I had sprayed last time. Then brushed on another layer as the Rumbler was still to lumpy for my liking. This one had shrunk up in a few places, and the brush able is the way to go for spot repairs where you need some build. The rocker bases came out kinda scalloped and needed a re skim to straighten them out. I brushed them up after tonight's pics. 

I'd been fiddling with the rumble compartment floor since the git go and finally got it roughed out. I cut it fat so it could just be jammed in during the build. It doesn't rub on the gearplate so the rest is downhill on the floor piece.

Turns out I cut the rumble lid seams a bit tight. When the lid was reinserted into the body she was bound up. Duh! The styrene spray built up fast on the leading edges of both the body and the lid so any clearance I had was quickly narrowed. I tried to watch it and keep it thin but failed anyway. It appeared catastrophic at first. Then I took a careful look and filed a thousandth off all around the lid and body for a total of two thou. Then touched it up with the brush able mix. Dodged a bullet.  

Some days I gotta back up and fix previous mistakes and surprises, but I got lucky and made some forward progress too!

The rough stuff is done, now comes the tedious nit picky final bodywork.


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Bill- You sent me mail, but I don't have a PM. Did you send it to my email address? [email protected]?

I may have deleted it thinking it was spam. Please send it again.

Jim


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

Bill- By the way, the rumbler is looking good. I was wondering how your functioning rumble seat would avoid getting gunked up when spraying. Looking forward to the finished product.

Jim


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*P L A N A head....*

Thanks Jim, Yes I'm sure it was sent to your E-mail. I'll resend it.

Honestly to keep things from binding up on movable parts is easy... just add more clearance! Ordinarily I try really hard to keep seams tight or invisable.

All the mud work and shaping was done in the base yellow color so I already had some build going on the seam's edges in order to straighten them out.

I got the wild hair to change the color. The lid is removable until the floor is installed so body and lid were sprayed seperatly. Had I been thinking ahead, the binding could've been easily avoided with a few extra file strokes on the lid to add some extra clearance. The actual track/guide mechanism was not gunked up as I had planned for that and allowed extra clearance in that area. 

So I typically had hindsight and foresight all in the same moment, D'oh! :freak: 

Wish my eye doctor could do something about that. LOL


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

I have been crazy busy on my end, Bill, (I wish it was slot-related) but wanted to tell you that this might be the finest example of super custom original (built on an original-original :thumbsup: ) I have ever seen! If only I had the time and patience....and vision......and skill at this level...heh!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Oh Joe, Thanks for your kind words and dont sweat the small stuff. No worries. :wave: 

Ya know I sprayed this one standard green just for us.  
My favorite color too! 

The vibe controller base cooked up great. I'm itchin' to shoot the daredevil jump yellow I cooked up. It looks funny to me, so maybe it'll be the translucent yellow after all. 

As far as time goes, lets remember how long I milk these customs. An hour or two here and an hour or two there. The lengthy styrene cure time allows me to cobble up little parts, and plot strategy. I never feel rushed cuz my hands are tied anyway. 

Vision Joe? Puh-leeze! It didnt take 20/20 on my part to realize Aurora's old Hot rod was a good platform for mischeif if your willing to hack a chassis now and then. snicker.

Currently working on a styrene cast of Buster's Darda in my down time. Built a baby pressure pot, and slopped some of that weird looking yellow into the molds. Due to the thickness, unlike resin they take a day or three. So far I've done an overly shrunken black version with good detail, a perfect sized geen one with garbled detail and mass bubbles, and finally a near perfect sized cream yellow one with a booger right in the grill! D'oh.

Sorta trying to figure what the correct mix is. Just playin' mad doctor right now until I get enough intel on non catalyzed plastic.


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