# the new mega g+ video review



## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

Talking about the new ride from afx and how to mod it a little. Click link below for utube video. Grab the popcorn and ya buddys and enjoy the show, will be doing more reviews on other cars in the future so subscribe to my channel


https://youtu.be/sHoH-7ncCJY

And part 2

https://youtu.be/s55gJTZSVYQ


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## MSwaterlogged (Feb 5, 2014)

FYI, the recommended break in procedure for the MG+ is 30 minutes at a fairly low voltage (~ 10-12 v or less). They run much better after that.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

MSwaterlogged said:


> FYI, the recommended break in procedure for the MG+ is 30 minutes at a fairly low voltage (~ 10-12 v or less). They run much better after that.


I agree and I did that thanks, but I am referring to mostly the handling in the review and wow what a difference it makes when u add neo 52s in these suckers!


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## vansmack2 (Feb 9, 2012)

The new cars are meant to be run with the new AFX 120 ohm controllers. That will make a lot of difference in the handling, but better magnets definitely makes them stay on the track better. On my Mega-G cars I installed N48 traction mags with the original traction mags stacked on top of them. They run great like that.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

vansmack2 said:


> The new cars are meant to be run with the new AFX 120 ohm controllers. That will make a lot of difference in the handling, but better magnets definitely makes them stay on the track better. On my Mega-G cars I installed N48 traction mags with the original traction mags stacked on top of them. They run great like that.


I tried the stack affect on my older mega g but didnt notice a big difference, also just got done testing the white stock mega g+ (from my video here) at my friends house who has the 120 ohm controllers and it still acted the same


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## vansmack2 (Feb 9, 2012)

krazikev said:


> I tried the stack affect on my older mega g but didnt notice a big difference


It worked for me.


I don't have any Mega-G, or new controllers, so I can't comment on that.


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

The 120 ohm controllers work for me. I've tried stock, RT, SRT, SG+ style controllers, and Parma 35,45,60 ohm, and the 120 ohm controllers worked by far the best. Day and night difference.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

The video was to show those with the stock track set how to improve the car for there stock controllers that come with the set, but thanks all for adding info for those who want to upgrade other areas of the set. ☺


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## Frank Broughton (Jan 31, 2016)

Kevin, two questions, have a link for the magnets you upgraded to and what app was that you used for the timing?


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

The 120 ohm controllers come in all MegaG+ sets, they are not an upgrade. The are black in color and clearly marked in orange 120.



The cars operate like junk without the 120 ohm controllers, with they may be the best handling box stock AFX ever.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

RjAFX said:


> The 120 ohm controllers come in all MegaG+ sets, they are not an upgrade. The are black in color and clearly marked in orange 120.
> 
> 
> 
> The cars operate like junk without the 120 ohm controllers, with they may be the best handling box stock AFX ever.


Great thanks for posting that, but to all those out there that are running the other stock controller like the ones in my video, the upgrade I demonstrated makes a world of difference on a basic 70 ohm controller track.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

Frank Broughton said:


> Kevin, two questions, have a link for the magnets you upgraded to and what app was that you used for the timing?


Mags are from Hoslots.com and the app is Wlap


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## vansmack2 (Feb 9, 2012)

krazikev said:


> Mags are from Hoslots.com and the app is Wlap


Hoslots.com will get you a Hot Online Slots slot machine website, so that is not a correct URL.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

vansmack2 said:


> Hoslots.com will get you a Hot Online Slots slot machine website, so that is not a correct URL.


Sorry it is Ho slots on ebay


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

Just want to clear something up, this video is to show those who have other tracks ( besides the track set that these cars come with ) how to make the mega g + to handle on their tracks without a upgraded controller, sorry if I mislead anyone, I will clear that up in the next video, thanks


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## MSwaterlogged (Feb 5, 2014)

krazikev said:


> Sorry it is Ho slots on ebay


Sure you don't mean HCSLOTS (Terry at Hardin Creek Slots)?


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

Yeah, but when you have 6 MegaG+ cars to upgrade magnets on you'd end up with 6 faster great handling cars with the purchase of two controllers.

Then as with any magnet car if you need more downforce, you can play with front & rear tire, and wheel diameter as well as magnets.


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## Frank Broughton (Jan 31, 2016)

I have the new 120 ohm controllers my mega G+ cars do run excellent with them. Will these stronger magnets help even more? 

So the Parma Turbo 45 Ohm controllers I bought (have not used them yet - still arranging my room to make a table -- almost there!) not work well with these cars? Read around so much -- it gets confusing...

I am still in information overload stage {grin}. 

I do appreciate those here who answered my silly questions. Still trying to figure the good peeps in the hobby and the "players." Have found most to be good peeps. Ebay is full of the delusional though with some of the prices they are asking for.


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## Frank Broughton (Jan 31, 2016)

Will the entry level BSRT & Wizzard cars be much different then these mega G + cars as far as sticking to the track?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Algebra gives me a headache.*

It's not a handling problem ...... it's a math problem. :freak:

Years ago, like many, I kicked and squirmed with regard to upgrading my power supply and matching my controllers; turns out adhering to OHM's Law was the best thing I ever did. :thumbsup:

Adding magnetic load is not the same as using the correctly rated controller to tailor your throttle input sensitivity to match the requirements of the motor. It's the difference between a light switch and a dimmer switch. :freak: 

The compromises and work arounds dont compare, there really is no substitute. The archives will reveal a good deal of info on the topic, where D-slot or Rich D (I forget which) insert values into the equation and then the math is penciled out. :hat:

At 80 ohms (blue Aurora wand in the video) is a third short on the motor's rated requirement. What would be interesting to see, is a lap time comparison between the magnet upgrade at 80 ohms, and no upgrade using 120 ohm controllers.


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

Quite Frankly, no. I would go to the Parma 90 ohm replaceable resistor for your Parma 45's if your only going to run MegaG+ cars. If you don't have a bunch of Parma controllers like I do I think the best route to go is to buy an adjustable controller for each lane, and be DONE with it. Two lane track two controllers etc. 

The 90 ohm resistor in the Parma will still not be perfect, but the MegaG+ is raceable with them. In other words the MegaG+ will still may not be running/working at it's full potential until you have 120 ohm's. 

It's the same for those that are trying to run RT, SRT, SG+, and MG chassis with the 120 ohm controllers that came in your new set. They don't work, it's NOT the chassis, it's the controllers. 

Ask the guys on here what Adjustable Controller to get. I have NEVER owned a single one, so I can not tell you what ones I like. I do not think you would have to buy the most expensive one out there to get a good one for home use. AFX Evan made and sold adjustable controllers. 

If you have the OLD Parma metal trigger controllers in good shape I'll give you $25 each and $5 shipping for them when and if you wanna get rid of them.


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## Frank Broughton (Jan 31, 2016)

RjAFX said:


> It's the same for those that are trying to run RT, SRT, SG+, and MG chassis with the 120 ohm controllers that came in your new set. They don't work, it's NOT the chassis, it's the controllers.


That explains why a couple SG+ cars I have run terrible with the 120 ohm controller.

Thanks for the info men.... so much to learn! I have grasped quite a bit, just putting it all together takes a bit of clarification. So many variables with the different style cars available.

Love reading and learning. Need to start some experimenting.


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## Frank Broughton (Jan 31, 2016)

found this thread: Matching Cars to Controllers and Voltage


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

It's ohm's law, not magnet madness.


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## krazikev (Oct 29, 2009)

RjAFX said:


> It's ohm's law, not magnet madness.


I actually injoy experimenting with both


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

I dunno, they work ok with 45 ohm for me. They work even better with a 60 ohm, and can only imagine better yet with 70 ohms. Click the photo, it'll take ya to a video. 

Parma 45 ohm controller and a box stock MG+ chassis at 12v, and GT 40 body. 



My oldest Daughter and GrandSons came over yesterday. Colin 12 had no problem running a MG+ with 45 ohms, nor did my 8 yr old GrandDaughter. Drew at 6 didn't do as well, so I gave him a 120 ohm. All the cars are box stock except for .442 SuperTires. Didn't do anything with the magnets.


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

This is at 22v same set up. Parma 45 ohm box stock MG+ with .442 SuperTires, and this time it's a 917K body. 

Stock magnets, stock amount of magnets. 

Again, click n the picture it'll take you to the video. 





64 dollar question, yes very tough to run at 22v.


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## vansmack2 (Feb 9, 2012)

RJ it looks like they are still running good!


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

Dave they hold up well, I've not run lap times but they feel the same. It doesn't take much at all to make the MG+ run well with a 45 ohm controller at 12v, $2 bucks in tires is all. Thinking if you run a tight track .250 wheels and the same tires would do the trick at .418.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

When the Mega G+ cars first came out I posted this review:

Recently I received a couple of the new AFX Mega G+ cars, a generic Gen 6 Chevy SS NASCAR and a generic modern open wheel F1 type. The Chevy body is very well done, I wonder if people would be willing to pay extra for an actual livery. The tampo printing on both cars was very sharp and clean. The F1 body is the same as the previous Mega G types except that the front wings are not as wide. The complete Chevy weighed in at 17.7 grams, the body is 5.4 grams and the chassis is 12.3 grams. The complete F1 is 15.5 grams, the body is 3.3 grams and the chassis is 12.2 grams. The slight difference in chassis weights is probably due to rounding off. A complete example of the original Mega G F1 car weighs 16.2 grams.
The front axle has a great deal of side play, spacers would have to be added to make these legal for most organized racing. I also noticed that the rear wheels on both cars appear to have a bit of runout.
The width of the chassis is 0.700 inches in the middle, the wheelbase is 1.7 inches. The front tires are 0.390 inches in diameter, the rear tires are 0.462 inches in diameter and the rear wheels are 0.275 inches in diameter and 0.250 inches wide. There is enough space for wider rear wheels and tires.
The traction magnets are neodymium and are not quite flush with the bottom of the chassis. The chassis has a bit more ground clearance at the front than at the back. I did not attempt to remove the can style motor. There is a wire that goes from the circuit board for the RFI suppression components to the top of the motor. The solder connection for the wire is the highest point on the chassis. I did find that one of the pickup shoes on the F1 car would hang up if it was pushed all the way up. I filed the shoe a little to prevent that. The guide pin touched the bottom of the slot on some old Aurora lock and joiner track, my MaxTrax also has a rather shallow slot.
I checked the strength of the traction magnets, they read 2600 gauss, about the same as the ones in my original Mega G car. I also checked the motor and measured 60 gauss on the bottom. The motor would probably be too far away from on the track rails to add much downforce.
Before I put the cars on the track I oiled the motor bearings and rear axles, shortened the guide pins and adjusted the pickup shoes to ride flat on the rails. The track was set at 18.5 volts.
First I took the original Mega G F1 car for a spin, it has Wizzard slip on silicone tires and it turned my track at 3.320 seconds. The Mega G+ F1 car was a bit loose and it did a 3.861 second best lap. With the silicone tires the car did 3.556 seconds, it was still sliding just a little. The Chevy SS wanted to de-slot before it would slide, limiting the pickup shoe travel fixed that and the best time on the stock tires was 4.100 seconds, switching to the silicone tires only lowered the lap time a little to 4.097 seconds. With the F1 car I could hear a little drumming sound from the wheel run-out.
I decided to try using some aftermarket wheels, when I pulled off a wheel I discovered that the end of the axle was knurled and that the axle might not have been straight. The rear axle assembly from the Mega G did not appear to fit. I may dig up a 0.059 inch diameter axle and do a new rear axle assembly with the original gear and boss plus the aftermarket wheels.
I used an old Cidex Omni diode controller and that worked perfectly with the new cars. I used just a touch of brakes. A 90 ohm Parma controller with the brake wire disconnected also worked very well. I also tried a 60 ohm Parma and that would do in a pinch, a 45 ohm Parma was just a bit too sensitive. If you run your track at a higher voltage than I do you would certainly want to use a higher ohm resistor.
It looks like these cars will be good runners right out of the box, they are not quite as fast as the earlier version, but should be very close with a tire change. It is too early to tell how the cars will hold up, but at least the pickup shoes seem to hold up well. I don't think it will be practical to rebuild the motors, but can type motors tend to last quite a while.

As I stated in the post I did my testing at 18.5 volts. My track is powered by a pair of Mastech 0-30 volt, 20 amp regulated power supplies, each one does two lanes. If you are using the AFX TriPower supply at the Expert setting you will have 24 volts with a car running. If you are using a power supply that is not regulated one that has a 24 volt nameplate value could deliver a much lower voltage when it was under even a modest load. I tested an unregulated power supply that was 19 volts with no load and dropped to 14 volts with a half amp load. A typical modern inline car will pull that much when it accelerates off of a corner. It would be best if you measured your supply voltage at the track rails under a load.
I did some Mega G+ testing at various voltage settings. At 24 volts with a 90 ohm controller a Mega G+ car was undrivable on my track, a 120 ohm controller would have been little better in my opinion. At 22 volts the car was on the edge with a 90 ohm controller, a 120 ohm controller would have been better. At 20 volts the car was quite drivable with the 90 ohm controller, it was about as fast as a first generation Mega G at 18.5 volts. The Mega G was easier to drive because it has more magnetic downforce in front.


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

Messing around this morning I think I have the set up that'll make everyone competitive, and happy. 

My three youngest GrandSons, and one of Brian's Sons will run .250 wheels and .418 tires. The cars are purdy slow and only come off the track on two turns on my layout. 

My Wife, GrandDaughter, one GrandSon, and Brian's oldest Son will run .250 wheels and .424 tires. The cars come off at all but two curves wide open. 

The rest of us will run .275 wheels and .442 or taller tires. The cars come off all the curves on my layout running at 12v if you try to run full throttle. 

This will keep everyone racing without getting discouraged and wanting to quit, as they get better they get taller black tires. This goes for everyone that's racing in our group.


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