# Turbo 35 guru's



## shrabber (Oct 17, 2002)

Ok guru's I have a turbo 35 bl and cleared data.In my manual I have there's no recommendations of help about recommended settings for best operations.I was wondering if someone can point me to a chart and our setup sheet if at possible for some info thanks in advance Tim


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## tfrahm (Nov 14, 1998)

Nothing special, but this is the profile I use for 4-cell NiMh's:

Normal NiMH Cell Profile
*Charging *
General	#Peaks 1
Trickle? N
Flex? N
Intensity N/A
Peak#1	Amps 6.0
DeltaV 0.03
Delay 120
Peak#2	Amps 5.0
DeltaV 0.03
Delay 120
Peak#3	Amps 4.0
DeltaV 0.03
Delay 120
*DisCharging *
Amps 20
#Cells 4
(Volts) 3.6


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## TnOvalRacer (Apr 17, 2005)

Discharging at 20 AMPS .....why? It is capable of 30/35


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## rctazmanmc (Oct 8, 2001)

What are you racing? Stock or mod?

Most guys like me that run stock discharge at 20 amp instead of 30 of which I believe most mod guys do. If you are trying to get matching numbers of what are on the cells than use what they matched at. 

Batteries run in stock classes respond better at 20 than 30 because 20 amp is more like what it drawn whne running stock. 

But to each their own.

I prefer to run 20 amp because it is better on the batteries and they respond better for my applications and I have done 20 and 30 amp discharges.


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## RCMits (Jan 1, 1970)

it all depends on what kind of racing. i run stock and discharge at 20amps with similar as what was posted. the cells i bought were matched at 30 amps, but i use 20 still... for my style of racing in stock it works.

for the first cycle, i do discharge at 30 amps to give them a kick =)

most major manufacturer sites for batteries give you a decent "starting" point on how to set your Turbo30/5 to "work" with your batteries. 

in the end, it is what works for your application!


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## shrabber (Oct 17, 2002)

Im mainly running stock.I cleared it because of previous owner settings.Not to mention heres something when I discharge @30 amps my actual amp draw displays like 22 to 23 amps?Is that normal?


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## DynoMoHum (Sep 25, 2001)

Stock oval racing is easily 25 amps average discharge, and quite possibly aproaching 30 amps.... I beleive that Touring Cars are also running very simmilar to that, maybe slightly lower...

However, some people don't like to discharge at such high rates while cycling their packs... they get pretty warm, and it would seem that discharging at a constant rate is actualy slightly differnt then discharging at a variable rate such as while actualy racing... The packs get REALLY hot at 30 amp discharge on a T35... putting a fan on them will also change the numbers you get, so it's not just as simple as putting a fan on them to cool them a bit... Bottom line is there are pros and cons to your choices, and I don't think it's as simple as saying that X, Y, or Z number of amps is correct whle the others are wrong...


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## shrabber (Oct 17, 2002)

what should I look for in cool down min when cycling thanks Tim


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## DynoMoHum (Sep 25, 2001)

As with just about any of these parameters, it's largely personal preferance. The only advice I'd give is to be consistant...

I'll expand on this a bit... all of these parameters will effect the numbers you get. Some parameters effect numbers more then others do, but they all have some effect. Temperature of the cells have a significant role in the numbers you will get, so much so that if you test one day in a room at 72 degrees F, and another day at 65F, you can see the differance in the numbers, perticularly when doing single cells, since they often take the single cell numbers out to 3 decmil places, etc... Placing a fan on the cells during discharge, or having them right near a air conditioner will effect the numbers too. 

Changing the time period of the cool down will effect the temperature of the pack at the time of dicharge, and also effect the initial voltage due to the amount of self discharge during the cool down period. The amount of these changes is pretty small over a short period of time, but the greater the change, the greater the effect you might see...

Consistancy is most important... and that you not try to compare your numbers with other peoples numbers, since the consistnacy between your methods and other peoples methods is nearly impossible to maintain, even if you both use the same parameters... There are slight differances in equipment calibration as well as likely differances in enviornmental factors such as ambient temperature. Don't put to much trust in comparing numbers from one matcher to the next, or from your numbers to your buddys, unless they were done on the same machine in the same room, etc...


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## shrabber (Oct 17, 2002)

Nice Rely So What Is A Good Starting Point For Cool Down Min?


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## erock1331 (Apr 1, 2002)

If you are talking about the delay inbetween the Peaks 1 and 2 I use 180 seconds. Most use the default of 120 seconds.


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## rctazmanmc (Oct 8, 2001)

I believe he is asking after it discharges - I normally do 45 mins - 1 hour depending on the conditions in my apartment - have to get the cells cooled down some before cycling them again.

You could do one cycle (charge/discharge) and then periodically check to see when they have come to room temperature - just a thought on a time frame.

Just do not put a fan on them when cycling them - not good and messes with the numbers.

As for after charging and before discharge I normally do about 5 minutes to simulate peaking and getting on the track. Time it to what you normally peak at then go run.

Hope this helps a little.

Just be careful and take care of your batteries!! Then they will take care of you when you need them - if not send them to pasture! lol.........

mc


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## Fantom (Feb 17, 2005)

RcTaz- Check your pm's.

Thanks,

Mark T.


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## erock1331 (Apr 1, 2002)

cycling once is bad enough on the cells, why would you want to cycle it twice?
that to me would just beat the cells up.


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## DynoMoHum (Sep 25, 2001)

I belive there are a couple differnt cool down times you can set. One is the time between the charge and the discharge portions of the 'cycle'... anohter is the time that you wait before you would start a second full 'cycle' (charge/discharge cycle)... I've never given a whole lot of thought to what would be best for either of these. I always used the default for the time between charge and discharge, I bleive that's like 30 or 45 seconds or something... I've never cycled multiple times, so I never monkeyed or even cared what that parameter is or was... 

If I were to cycle multiple times, I would want to make sure there was at least a hour or so rest period before starting another charge/discharge cycle... But I don't think I would ever do this with a pack of batteries, unless I was specificly trying to understand what happend during a second and/or third charge in a single day. I could see where this might be usefull for someone like a matcher or other person who was willing to put ALOT of effort into battery testing... the average racer has very little or no reason to cycle a pack multiple times in one sittting.... Matchers also cycle single cells multiple times, because apparently the numbers aren't alwasys consistiant when they are new, and sometimes take mutiple cycles before the numbers stabalize.... So for single cells, there may be other reasons to cycle multiple times, etc... Either way I personaly would likely wait at least a hour between any multiple cycles...


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## shrabber (Oct 17, 2002)

One cycle for me gives me a cool down min option.I believe its the time a batt is charged(cycled) time to cool down and be discharged?


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