# powermore snow thrower no start



## Jeeper951 (Jan 26, 2014)

Hello all. 
I have a snow thrower that had the carb clog up. I replaced it. Now it has a no start condition. I checked the keyway and it is good. I checked the valves and adjusted them. I tried start by using quick start to no avail. Plug has spark and gets wet with gas. I pinched the gas line, and tried quick start and finally got one fire. Now nothing. Seems like there is a lot of pressure coming back throw the throat of the carb even when turning it over. It did not run before, except on spray. Now not even that. Help....


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Jeeper951 said:


> Hello all.
> I have a snow thrower that had the carb clog up. I replaced it. Now it has a no start condition. I checked the keyway and it is good. I checked the valves and adjusted them. I tried start by using quick start to no avail. Plug has spark and gets wet with gas. I pinched the gas line, and tried quick start and finally got one fire. Now nothing. Seems like there is a lot of pressure coming back throw the throat of the carb even when turning it over. It did not run before, except on spray. Now not even that. Help....


Do good to do a check down. I take it that this is a float valve carb.

This is a new carb. Make sure that the float is not sticking. It could be flooding.

Check if you have any pressure coming out of the Muffler. Have someone hold their hand near (not on) the line of exhaust. If no puff and you say there is pressure back through the carb, you could have a blockage in the exhaust pipe or muffler. 

Have you got a compression gauge or have one you can borrow? Find out what the compression should be for that engine. I read 50-60 psi in some newer 4 cycle engines.

Make sure the gas tank is vented properly. When you got the new carb, did it come with new gaskets?

Are all the gas lines clear and if there is a filter on in the tank, replace it.

Last resort; check the timing. Pull the flywheel and check the magneto and the gap.


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## Jeeper951 (Jan 26, 2014)

Thanks for the reply. I see grey smoke coming from both the exhaust and the carb when turning over. The I put the coil back on after removing and checking the key for the magneto. I used a piece of box board to space it. I will check to see 8 the flat is stuck, but if the line is pinched would it not run on the starter spray? I'm at a loss, and now that the new carb is installed I can't take it back... I am using the old gaskets for the carb.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Jeeper951 said:


> Thanks for the reply. I see grey smoke coming from both the exhaust and the carb when turning over. The I put the coil back on after removing and checking the key for the magneto. I used a piece of box board to space it. I will check to see 8 the flat is stuck, but if the line is pinched would it not run on the starter spray? I'm at a loss, and now that the new carb is installed I can't take it back... I am using the old gaskets for the carb.


Grey Smoke from both? You shouldn't see grey smoke at all. How old is the machine? Get a compression gauge. The line should screw into your spark plug hole. Contact MTD to find out what your compression should be. 

Originally your said your carb was clogged up. What made you think that? The problem may not have been the carb at all. Grey smoke would indicate oil getting into the cylinder. How old is the machine? Had it been blowing grey smoke? Something going on internally.

May need a complete breakdown. Are you capable of doing that? Check the piston for holes or score. Check the condition of the rings. Before you pull the piston make sure you have access to a sleeve to aid in reinserting the piston.

How old it is and the market value of similar machines would indicate how much money and time you want to put into this machine.


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## Jeeper951 (Jan 26, 2014)

When I first got the machine from a friend, it was stored with the gas In it. It ran on spray until it backfired. I took the bowl off the carb and it was full of gunk. Took it apart further and the venturi was plugged solid, kinda looked like a gasket broke down and clogged everything. Parts place said 40 for the rebuild kit or 65 for the new carb. New one it is. The machine is about 3 years old. I will try to check compression later today. Thanks for you help.


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## Jeeper951 (Jan 26, 2014)

No compression at all. Even with finger on the plug hole can't feel a thing. It is still moving air through the vent in the valve cover and the exhaust. I think it's finished. Unless the exhaust valve is adjusted too close. I put it at .04, which is what the intake valve was at, I cant find the spec's on this engine. Originally it was quite loose even when lifting. I'll try backing that off and compression again.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Jeeper951 said:


> No compression at all. Even with finger on the plug hole can't feel a thing. It is still moving air through the vent in the valve cover and the exhaust. I think it's finished. Unless the exhaust valve is adjusted too close. I put it at .04, which is what the intake valve was at, I cant find the spec's on this engine. Originally it was quite loose even when lifting. I'll try backing that off and compression again.


Get me the Model and Serial number. It should be on the motor itself. Don't mistake the numbers on the blower body as the model and serial for the motor.

I've never worked with an OHC engine before so I'm not sure how you can tell if the valves are seating. Trying to picture in my head what's going on. It does use regular engine gasoline correct? I can't get the grey smoke out of my head. How old is the motor.

Like I said I'm not familiar with OHC engines but I question if you should feel air in the vent in the valve cover.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Hello and welcome to the forum Jeeper. If your engine will not fire on fuel dribbled into the cylinder, you MAY have an ignition problem among other things. Reset the coil to flywheel air gap using a business card which will put it at the correct gap of .010 to .012 and confirm you have a strong spark at the spark plug. Make sure the piston is moving when the recoil is pulled to eliminate a broken piston rod problem.

Here is a link to the Powermore service manual so generously contributed by "paulr44" awhile back. If this isn't the correct manual, let us know and we will try to find the correct one. The valve adjustment procedure and specs for setting them are in the manual. I hope this helps to get you started on the necessary repairs.

http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_04015_01_Small_bore_horizontal.pdf


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## Jeeper951 (Jan 26, 2014)

Thanks to all that helped. This afternoon I went out and looked at the engine, and found out why there was no compression. It appears that the red tube from a spray can had been sucked into the carb and into the cylinder. Once removed, by a pair of long nose pliers and slowly turning over, compression was good and it now runs great... Who knew...??? Thanks again.:thumbsup:


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Jeeper951 said:


> Thanks to all that helped. This afternoon I went out and looked at the engine, and found out why there was no compression. It appears that the red tube from a spray can had been sucked into the carb and into the cylinder. Once removed, by a pair of long nose pliers and slowly turning over, compression was good and it now runs great... Who knew...??? Thanks again.:thumbsup:


Sometimes solutions that seems complicated turns out to be so simple. I learned a lesson early on. Check compression. If none, find out why. :freak:


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