# How to close up the J2?



## johncal (May 26, 2010)

*How to close up the J2? SOLVED*

OK, I'm running into the same issues as a lot of you other guys. The top stays pretty flat with nothing in it, but as soon as you put the guts in, it just doesn't want to close right. And I know all my clearances are correct.

I'd like to know how some of you guys cured the issue. Any and all ideas are welcome.

Thanks in advance


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Are you using the ceiling soffit?
If you are,Unfortunately that may be the reason.
If you don't want to glue the two halves together,see how the two halves fit without the soffit.
It sounds like you already checked to make sure the floor is sitting perfectly lined up & level in the bottom hull.
Another thing is to make sure you have all the joining pins from the top hull lined up with the bottom ones.
When both halves of the hull are lined up correctly & Properly seated,There shouldn't be any large gaps.Hope this helps


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

It fits "pretty good with nothing it it, but it's definitely tight with the guts in. Unfortunately the ceiling is part of the deal. I can try filing around the top edges some more, but that's about it. Floor is sitting pretty flat. I was as careful as could be to make sure my clearances were all there, but so far to no avail.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

How stable is the interior without the soffit in place ? without it, you can probably see MORE detail when the top is off.


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

Already have the soffit installed. I have all the lighting, etc connected. Everything fits tight and right, there's just no real room in there. I'm not considering taking the soffit back off anyways, it would be a pain and would not look good when looking through the window.

I just don't want to glue it together, because with all the lighting, etc. I want to have access for any future maintenance.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Do your locator pins all snap into place tightly ?


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

bert model maker said:


> Do your locator pins all snap into place tightly ?


They all snap in to place but then just pop back out.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

I sealed it up, Rather, Cemented it together.(TOP AND BOTTOM HULLS).

Without the landing Gear, Batteries etc.. The top would actually Snap Shut.

As soon as I added the Landing gear, a small gap would result.Then, with the added weight of Lights/ Batteries it became more apparent that I would need to cement the top and lower hulls together.

As I wrote in my Build up thread, I planned on Cementing the hulls together anyway..Which is why I Made my main Airlock Hatches open and Close. That way you get another View Inside the ship.

If you wanted to leave it so you can take it off, but with a better fit, perhaps Magnets would be the answer??

To access my Batteries I have two access points, the Space Pod Bay, which I made open and Close, and the Fusion Core.

It's just the nature of the beast. The Hulls are robust and strong, but also somewhat flimsy(with the added weight).


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

beatlepaul said:


> I sealed it up, Rather, Cemented it together.(TOP AND BOTTOM HULLS).
> 
> Without the landing Gear, Batteries etc.. The top would actually Snap Shut.
> 
> ...


That's the same way it went for me.... the slowly deteriorating fit. Idon't have to worry about batteries, since I use the CAT5 cable and an external power suppply, but it sure is frustrating.

I may have to go the magnet route, but that's a lot of work building up mounting points for them and the allignment is critical. Well at least I got the model built in a few weeks. Now it'll probably take a few more just to get the hulls right.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Yep!

It fit Like a glove without the landing gear and such, But again, unless you need to access electronics on your personal build, I can't see why you would need to take off the top, To play with your action figures perhaps??LOL!

I can see most of the interior through the main viewport and Hatch area.


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

I had some 1/16" thick self adhesive high density foam gasketing hanging around so I cut it into 1/8" strips and lined the inside of the alignment tubes with 1 piece each. This created just enough friction to hold the mating pins in tightly enough to work, yet I can still pry it open if I want to at a later time. 

It still wants to pop open, but it will stay closed once in place. Good enough and the model looks great!


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## macki (Mar 13, 2010)

tru taking small wire and put in the pin holes on bottom of hull wire like thickness of hard wires phone line. worked gr8 for mine and you still can get in side if needed and hull looks like it would if glued
i used same thing on the flying sub


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Great to hear you solved the problem!
I went back and looked at your posted interior pics and see that you have some intricate lighting rigged to the ceiling soffit,So i understand why you don't want to remove it.
I didn't have any problems with hull fit on mine even after i installed the landing gear,But then again i don't have as much electronics installed in mine as some.
In fact until i test fitted the ceiling soffit in my J2 the hull just snapped shut no problem.
I didn't want to glue the two halves of the hull shut,Or use magnets.
So,Opted to not use the soffit.
To me, since i don't have any wiring along the top of the soffit it worked out for the better,And you really can't notice that it isn't installed,Plus when i remove the top hull,There is more of the interior to view.:thumbsup:
I think that's one of the reasons Moebius included that soffit in the first place,For ceiling lighting.
You have done an awsome job on your J2 And look forward to seeing the completed pics!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

Exterior pics soon...... I'm all done except some ceiling work down the road, and I'll probably have some glass panels cut for the front window. I don't like the distortion of the plastic even though it's relatively minor, and it would be too obvious if the window were removed all together. So it's glass down the road. With all the sweat and effort (and money) I put into this thing, I want a crystal clear view when I look through that front window.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

johncal said:


> Exterior pics soon...... I'm all done except some ceiling work down the road, and I'll probably have some glass panels cut for the front window. I don't like the distortion of the plastic even though it's relatively minor, and it would be too obvious if the window were removed all together. So it's glass down the road. With all the sweat and effort (and money) I put into this thing, I want a crystal clear view when I look through that front window.


I left the front window..It is actually pretty good...

BUT, I used clear Plastic of my Own for the porthole by the Hatch.


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## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

johncal said:


> Exterior pics soon...... I'm all done except some ceiling work down the road, and I'll probably have some glass panels cut for the front window. I don't like the distortion of the plastic even though it's relatively minor, and it would be too obvious if the window were removed all together. So it's glass down the road. With all the sweat and effort (and money) I put into this thing, I want a crystal clear view when I look through that front window.


John -

You could use something like Acetate for the windows. I'm imagining that getting glass thin enough to use on a model for that size viewport would be rather difficult.

Bryan


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

beatlepaul said:


> I left the front window..It is actually pretty good...
> 
> BUT, I used clear Plastic of my Own for the porthole by the Hatch.


Yeah, it is "pretty good", but not quite good enough for me long term. I mean, as far as plastic model kits go, the window is damn good. In fact, Frank did a wonderful job on the entire model. A really good job, I'm just kind of anal about certain things.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

johncal said:


> Yeah, it is "pretty good", but not quite good enough for me long term. I mean, as far as plastic model kits go, the window is damn good. In fact, Frank did a wonderful job on the entire model. A really good job, I'm just kind of anal about certain things.


 

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I followed Lou's lead and added some blocks of plastruct along the edge of the upper hull, I think about 16 total. I then used self-tapping optical screws to pull it together, after drilling angled holes thru the bottom edge of the lower hull. It closes up pretty nicely this way, although it IS a pain! (It takes me about 20 minutes to secure them all, and I'm an Optician by trade!! LOL!) 









I have had it sealed completely up a few times.....(note gap by door, one of my blocks popped off from the stress on it. I reglued it, and added about 8 more after these initial photos and test fits. 










But, I've had it on display for my friends like this for the last few weeks!









Aluminum rods I cut stuck in 4 of the larger holes hold it nice and stable!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Tim Nolan said:


> ... and I'm an Optician by trade!! ...


And you're making a spectacle of yourself with this build.

I'll be here all week. Don't forget to try the roast beef.

In all seriousness, that looks really neat. I like the standoffs to show off all your work!


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

I had no trouble with the soffet causing any problems.

Since I intended to seal My Jupiter Two from the begining, It really was no big deal.It gives the model(My Model), a Nice Finished Look.:thumbsup:

I knew that the more junk you tried to squeeze into the hull, although there is a lot of room there, It would cause the hulls to flex a tad. I did a lot of customizing to the interior and through the main Viewport, Side Porthole and Hatch, you can see just about everything I did.

I also wanted the lighting to be in scale with the model and not look like a Disco on steroids!!LOL!

Just some finishing touches on the outer hull and she's done..I plan on really detailing my figures! Cool thing is I can still put them in the ship via the Airlock!!!Still thinkinking about getting Henry's Launch Tower..As soon as I can. Then I will remove the Landing gear..again!

Then it's time to finish up my second Flying Sub!!!!!


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I also wanted the lighting to be in scale with the model and not look like a Disco on steroids!!LOL!

Hey, I reperesent that remark! :lol:

Not really....As much crap as I managed to stuff in mine, when it's all sealed up and turned on, it looks really freakin' cool. All of the lighting is fairly subtle and looks like the "real" ship pretty much. My Polar Lights 12" I did a year ago, it does kind of look like a disco in there......

A year later and a lot more lighting experience, that's the difference.....Oh, and of course, one hell of a better kit to start with too!


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

"I also wanted the lighting to be in scale with the model and not look like a Disco on steroids!!LOL!

Hey, I reperesent that remark! :lol:

Not really....As much crap as I managed to stuff in mine, when it's all sealed up and turned on, it looks really freakin' cool. All of the lighting is fairly subtle and looks like the "real" ship pretty much. My Polar Lights 12" I did a year ago, it does kind of look like a disco in there......

A year later and a lot more lighting experience, that's the difference.....Oh, and of course, one hell of a better kit to start with too


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

for that crystal clear viewport look, may I recommend microscope slides? they make "double sized" ones that are big enough . you need to cut them, (but it's a straight line) and they're super thin


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> for that crystal clear viewport look, may I recommend microscope slides? they make "double sized" ones that are big enough . you need to cut them, (but it's a straight line) and they're super thin


Somebody else suggested that as well. I think that's a good idea. I'm sure with a glass cutter, it wouldn't bee too hard, plus if you break a few, who cares! Not only are they thin, but perfect optically. They have to be. Just have to figure out where I can get them.


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## louspal (Sep 13, 2009)

johncal said:


> Exterior pics soon...... I'm all done except some ceiling work down the road, and I'll probably have some glass panels cut for the front window. I don't like the distortion of the plastic even though it's relatively minor, and it would be too obvious if the window were removed all together. So it's glass down the road. With all the sweat and effort (and money) I put into this thing, I want a crystal clear view when I look through that front window.


Although real glass would probably be best, maybe try dipping the panels in Future. It dries crystal clear and belive it or not makes the plastic seem thinner and more to scale. If you dont like it, a bit of Windex will remove the Future.


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

Has anyone found that trimming the back or top edge of the soffit help at all? I'm having the same issue....without the guts it fits perfect, with the guts the top won't snap into place put pops out. Looks terrible.


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## B-9 (Jun 8, 2009)

richlen2 said:


> Has anyone found that trimming the back or top edge of the soffit help at all? I'm having the same issue....without the guts it fits perfect, with the guts the top won't snap into place put pops out. Looks terrible.


I had the same problem. The wiring prevented it from closing so I had to dremel grooves in the soffit to run the wires through. I also screwed the hull halves together like several others have done which I think is the only sure way to make it all work.


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

Can anyone tell me....How do you "screw the hull halves" together?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

richlen2 said:


> Can anyone tell me....How do you "screw the hull halves" together?


Check out Tim Nolan's post (#19), early on this page.


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

richlen2 said:


> Has anyone found that trimming the back or top edge of the soffit help at all? I'm having the same issue....without the guts it fits perfect, with the guts the top won't snap into place put pops out. Looks terrible.


I wound up trimming and filing the edges of the soffit, trimming the little nubs on top of the landing gear bays, slightly opening up the holes on the floor that align with the pins on the landing gear bays, and running my wiring through a hole I drfilled in the soffit behind the nav computer (tape deck). Then it pretty much closes OK, bugt I also but some high density self stick foam in the alignment tubes to keep it shut.


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