# Help working with Squadron Green Putty



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Can anyone give me some much needed advice. I have been building models fo a long time, and they have come out very nicely to me. I have always been afraid to do seam work, because I was always afraid of ruining my work. I just got an 18" enterprise, and I strted doing my first stab at putty filling. I bought the squadron green putty , and it seems to work ok. I applied it using an exacto knife, but it doesnt work very well. It leaves somes clumps on the plastic. what do you guys use to apply the putty, and how do you get it all smoothed out and ready to paint. Please let me know as I am trying to better my skills of model building.


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

To smooth out Squadron Putty, use nail polish remover, just make sure it's the type that uses acetone, the non-acetone types don't work. Also, put the putty on in thin coats, you'll have to re-putty the area several times, but it's better then one really thick coat. Be aware that Squadron putty shrinks as it dries, another reason that you'll have to re-putty. It can also crack and get pitted, so you might want to consider another brand down the road since it can be hard to get a good finish at times. 

Try to find a better application tool, like a putty applicator that most hobby shops carry, I'd be afraid of digging into the plastic with the exacto blade!

I've used Squadron for most of my kits, but switched to Mr. Surfacer on the past few kits, but while it doesn't seem to crack, it does shrink. Now I'm about to use Aves on my current kit since a lot of people here seem to rave about it (Aves doesn't shrink). 

Hope this helps and good luck!


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

ADDENDUM: Apply the nail polish remover onto the putty using a Q-tip while the putty is still fresh.
Green stuff is notorious from shrinkage, so after your first coat dries, you will usually find that you have to apply another coat over the first. 
Be carefull of applying too much putty on very thin polystyrene pieces such as from vacu-formed garage kits; I've experienced melting issues.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I used nothing but Squad for the better part of three years. Mostly for convenience and cost. It is beautiful to put down in those first few seconds, but then it starts chunking up and becomes more unworkable by the second. Squad is great as a bulk filler -unless it's styrene you are filling as the heat will melt styrene. But for fine work, it's just not fun. The nail polish removed should help alot, keeping in mind that enough acetone will melt styrene too.

Well, once I finally got my first tub of Aves, that was that. It smooths with water, doesn't crack, is workable for hours and can be used for fine details or bulk patching. There's no looking back.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Not sure if they sell it Stateside but the best filler I've used in 40 years of modelling (and I've tried them all) is Humbrol filler. It bonds extremely well to styrene without the melting problem that you get with Squadron. It also sands very easily.
Ones to avoid are Revell's Plasto and the Italeri type (which I think is Plasto relabelled).


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Model Man said:


> Well, once I finally got my first tub of Aves, that was that. It smooths with water, doesn't crack, is workable for hours and can be used for fine details or bulk patching. There's no looking back.


The downside of Aves Apoxie Sculpt is that it's harder than most styrenes once it fully cures, which can make sanding (to get a smooth transition) difficult. Also, in my experience it's not workable for "hours"; I'd say about 45 minutes before it starts to cure and becomes difficult to manipulate, but that's usually enough time to accomplish your goals.

For small gaps and seam filling I find Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty to be the easiest to work with. It has a relatively short working time (about 5 minutes), but IMO it bonds to styrene better than every other "modeling" putty I've tried, doesn't get "flaky" or "lumpy", and sands very easily once it's fully cured.

That said, IMO there's no such thing as the "perfect" putty. You just have to figure out which ones work best for you depending on what you're trying to accomplish.


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I'll second the motion for Bondo glazing putty--red stuff with no activator required. Cheap, easy to work with, bonds well, doesn't melt styrene anywhere near as much as Squadron green--you probably won't notice any meltage. It hardens quickly with minimal shrinkage, you can paint over it with anything, enamels, acrylics, lacquers.

I usually use whatever is at hand to apply, but the cheapest applicator I've found is business cards. I've quit/been fired so many times I have several thousand "applicators" just waiting their turn. In my experience, the glossy cards common these days (which are typically left on your car) are better--they tend to be stiffer and apply the stuff more smoothly.

Thin styrene sheet stock is a good applicator also, but pricey.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The Squadron stuff works fine if you apply it in thin layers. Wet sand between layers. If the putty has shrunk a bit (common with putties) then repeat. I wet sand wtih a couple grades of paper something around 350 first then something finer.

The red Bondo glazing putty is ok but also shrinks and also comes off the plastic easeir. Its easy to sand but sands away too quickly.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

when your out of the green stuff, get some Tamiya basic Grey putty. blows squadron and testors and bondo, etc away!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Jafo said:


> when your out of the green stuff, get some Tamiya basic Grey putty. blows squadron and testors and bondo, etc away!


I did that very step, going from squad to Tamiya grey. A couple months later, my local said it no longer available form the distributor and never saw it again. Nice and creamy out of the tube, you had a minute to get it into shape. I liked that stuff. If it's ever available again, I would use it to supplement my Aves. Still haven't seen the single bondo tubes around anywhere though....I've used the two-part bondo, but the stench is to much for inside use and the working time is negligible.


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

Bondo red is available at Walmart (under lock and key maybe) and virtually all auto parts stores around these parts (Chicago).

Is this the Tamiya putty you're referring to?










It's a photo off a listing on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-87097-Po...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item335c8b2900

"Tamiya putty" brings up numerous hits on ebay for a bunch of different products


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Tamiya Basic (aka Grey) putty is no longer imported to the USA. THey have a replacement but from all acounts it is not very good. Polyester Putty is a different animal. ITs a two part epoxy type filler where you mix a catalyst with the putty. Its really sort of strange stuff and also expensive.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

machgo said:


> Bondo red is available at Walmart (under lock and key maybe) and virtually all auto parts stores around these parts (Chicago).
> 
> Is this the Tamiya putty you're referring to?
> 
> ...


http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87053

I'd stay away from ebay, it could be old stock.......:drunk: I just bought 5 tubes from here and had it in 10 days and it new stock.......:thumbsup:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You can buy the stuff off eBay. Tamiya still makes the putty, it is just not officially imported to the USA any more. But the putty pictured above is their Polyester two part putty (funny rubbery stuff for doing Zimmerit on German tanks). So the question is moot.

Hobby Link Japan, Lucky Models, and Rainbow 10 are all very good, reliable, overseas vendors.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I have used Squadron putty (I now use the white) fo rmany years, as a "finishing" filler. That is, to do a feathered smooth finish over any tiny areas that might still need it after I have used Zap-a-Gap to fill large areas. The Zap is rock-hard, no shrinking, and durable as hell. (You can also add baking soda to it for added strength) Yes, it's harder to sand off, but grab some rougher papers or emory cloth and knock it down quicker.


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## ricmac50 (Jul 22, 2015)

*Reply to Jaws6266*

I read your comment and thought that maybe a little help from my side might help. I use a painters spatula that can be purchased at Hobby Lobby, made by Master's Touch, they do come in various sizes and shapes but it would be at your discretion what kind you would like.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Five years later he probably has it solved


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

djnick66 said:


> Five years later he probably has it solved


:freak::freak: *Yeah, I would think so too!*

Carl-


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

djnick66 said:


> Five years later he probably has it solved


Or he gave up and decided to start collecting stamps.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Whichever type of putty is used , with sandpaper always sand in a circular motion instead of back and forth, this way it keeps the material even and another tip is to wet sand. Get you a bucket of water and sand in a circular motion while dipping the model part that is being sanded and you will have no sanding dust and smoother sanded finish.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

How does one even FIND a 5 year old thread like this, let alone decide that NOW it's time to reply to it?


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## xr4sam (Dec 9, 1999)

Paulbo said:


> How does one even FIND a 5 year old thread like this, let alone decide that NOW it's time to reply to it?


A--very carefully

B--he was bored?

:jest:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

People have too much time on their hands scrolling back


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## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

I use two-part epoxy putty,the stuff made for plumbing work. You can get it at Lowe's and similar places. It's very strong, doesn't shrink or crack and you can smooth it out with a little rubbing alcohol on your finger. Much better than using acetone or something that could attack the plastic. The stuff is hard as a rock when dry and sands very nicely.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

I found a putty made by Vallejo, an acrylic putty. Comes in a tube with a fine- point applicator tip, and smoothes with a moistened Q-tip (which makes it great for wing roots). Little to no sanding needed. You can score some from MegaHobby.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Paulbo said:


> How does one even FIND a 5 year old thread like this, let alone decide that NOW it's time to reply to it?


My guess is he was doing a search for "Squadron putty" or something like that, stumbled onto this thread, didn't notice it was five years old, signed up, and left that post trying to be helpful to a fellow modeler. He hasn't left any posts since, so I hope we haven't scared him off.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

For me Im a rather impatient kind of builder and for years I have been 
filling gaps and such with medium ca glue then a dusting with baking soda...its ready to sand or drill instantaneously....now depending on the depth or size of the gap it may take several times to fill ....just blow and brush away the powder that does not set and go again....on the final sand....if there are any tiny pin holes or what not ....I dab in some ca....then a drop of ca quick set, sand to 3200 and your ready to keep on working or paint! 
I use the same technique to strengthen assemblies ( where you can't see it ) minus the sanding ....fast and very strong.....I have never had any type of issues etc. Happy Building allows


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