# Toro/Homelite Trimmer Won't Start When Hot



## tperk100 (Jun 19, 2013)

Model 51990 Trimmer/Brushcutter

Replaced fuel lines, filter and cleaned carb. Trimmer starts easily and initially runs great, BUT, after shutting it off it will not restart for at least 30 minutes. I am baffled.

Any help will be appreciated.


Tom in Va Beach, Va


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

tperk100 said:


> Model 51990 Trimmer/Brushcutter
> 
> Replaced fuel lines, filter and cleaned carb. Trimmer starts easily and initially runs great, BUT, after shutting it off it will not restart for at least 30 minutes. I am baffled.
> 
> ...


It could be the fuel cap is not venting properly, when you shut it off pressure buildup in the tank is forcing fuel past the needle as the engine shuts off leaving it in a flooded state, try loosening the fuel cap just before you shut it off to see if it makes any difference. Have a good one. Geo


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## tperk100 (Jun 19, 2013)

Hmmmm...Geo, the situation has digressed. Today it won't start at all. I suspect that the carb diaphram is defective. It looked kind of wrinkled a little when I took it apart. It seems there is no rebuild kit so I have ordered a carb. Hope I did not waste $75! I would just scrap the thing but I have three attachments for it that I use often enough to justify spending money to get the thing fixed.

FYI, I have also checked ignition with tester, replaced bulb primer and spark plug, and have fresh gas.

If you have any ideas, let me know. Otherwise I will post results after I get the new carb.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

For future reference, your trimmer shows to have a WYC-3-1 carburetor. Walbro kit K10-WYC should be the kit for your carburetor.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

http://www.walbro.com/parts-service.aspx

BTW the -1 after any Walbro part / carb. number indicates "aftermarket." Carb imprinted numbers will not have a -1 but we in the industry are sooooo used to it....even new "aftermarket" carbs don't have a -1, it's just that the part numbers do.

I will add in addition to the *stalwart* support by others (namely 40-yr.:jest: & Geo), that ignition coils can exhibit the symptom (from heat soak or just normal use) you describe however rare. Check spark *when it won't start* to elminate or condemn the coil.

Paul


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## tperk100 (Jun 19, 2013)

Thanks to all of you for your help. I have checked ignition spark when it won't start and it is strong.

I cancelled the carb order and ordered the kit.


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## tperk100 (Jun 19, 2013)

I am about ready to throw this thing out. I put Carb kit in. Unit still will not start. When pumping primer gas is returning to tank, but engine is getting no gas. I can pump the primer a dozen times, remove plug , and it is completely dry! I used carb cleaner, cleaned and purged and blew out all carb orifices, etc.

Local mechanic told me I need a new carb ($80 for part), so just buy a new trimmer. That's what I am going to do unless someone here has a better idea.

FYI, compression is good.


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

I have learned not to use the air hose directly into the orifices of the carb. I did so on one and ruined the internal check valves that are not replaceable. Had to get a new carb, which was only $30. I spray clearner in the orifices and use about 25psi from the air hose around the exterior of the carb. Never applying direct air hose pressure into any orifice. 
I do not believe the primer forces fuel directly into the engine. It primes the carb with fuel so when applying the choke, the engine has fuel to start when cold. Continuous priming will just force excess fuel back to the tank. I am sure someone will correct me on that if I am wrong.


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## tperk100 (Jun 19, 2013)

I found a carb for $49 inc shipping. Will install and post results.


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## tperk100 (Jun 19, 2013)

Installed new carb today. Runs like new now! 

Thanks to all for your help,

CASE CLOSED!


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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