# Craftsman Blower no start...



## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Hi, new here. I was given an older Craftsman blower. Dunno the model #, it has a lt. grey case around the motor, 22cc. It won't start. I pull it about 3x and it gets REAL HARD then kinda breaks free and pulls easier for a few more pulls and does it all over again. I tore the plastic off it today. I has spark, dunno 'bout fuel. I can't see it squirt in the small carb... (DAMN that thing IS small) It also doesnt have a primer bulb anywhere... The instructions for starting are on the airbox lid and half of it is missing... I did find the idle screw and mixture which are labelled and accessable with the covers on. They are right under the choke handle. Is the carb gummed up? Any/all replies are greatly appreciated!

TIA, Eric


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

if it was stored for a long time with the gas in it......yeah the carb needs to be completely taken apart, a rebuild kit put in it, and it soaked and blowed out and put back together......one thing to make sure is that the bore and cylinder isn't scored, they need atleast 90 psi to start and run..... if its scored, might as well set it back down and leave it...... it might have been seized up? you'll have to take the engine out and take the muffler off to check....if not make sure the arrestor is clear as well.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

From your discription it is the blower that has the tall square housing around it? If so, that may be one of the last good blowers that Sears has sold in the last 5 years. The engines are normally rock solid. 

The main problem is, like bugman said, the carb can get dirty. Since these do not have a purge bulb any dirt in the carb will cause it not to suck gas. In most cases you can remove the carb and take off the end of the carb with one larger screw in it and clean out the inlet screen with carb cleaner. In more extreme cases the carb will need to be disassemebled and rebuilt. The other main problem is old cracked fuel lines from old/stale gas or just being old... those can also be semi-easily replaced.


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Dunno 'bout a tall square housing. I does have a "door" on the bottom for sucking/mulching the leaves I guess. That part (the volute, is black) rest is lt grey, with the handle being on the top. I'll take another look at the carb tomorrow. As far as starting, is this truely one of the "Set it on the ground" deals? I'm figuring the hard part of the pull is when it hits that 90PSI?

TNX, Eric


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Hank, while checking how much gas was in my bike I looked at it, yes it is the square housing. Set on top of the volute, with the handle coming off the top of the grey housing. Carb is Walbro. HAs diapraghm on the bottom, big screw on top of it. Can this kit be found at the old style "full service" hardware stores? There is one a couple or door down from work... Fuel line is still soft and pliable, I sucked some fuel thru it yesterday (yuck!)

-Eric


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

My guess would be dirty carb. The carbs are a pain to get at but your best bet is to remove it and give it a good cleaning.


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Flushed it out today. Got a couple of pops out of it, after dribbling a little fuel in it. Going to see it I can score a carb kit tomorrow, though. The underside of the diapraghm was wet.

-Eric


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Is there any where via the 'net Ican score a carb kit for it? The local place said I have to goto a Sears parts place, there's none w/in like 75 miles...


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

http://www3.sears.com but you'll need to know the model number of the blower.


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

I think I definetly found the problem today. I pulled the carb again and popped the diapraghm cover and it was wet with fuel. Look like the diapraghm is blown. I find a kit here in the next few days and let y'all know. Thanks!

-Eric


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

I found a diapraghm and gasket for it at a local repair shop. I tore the rest of the blower apart today for a good cleaning... I found the binding problem... The area on the flywheel where the magnets are was hitting the pickup on the coil! I looked at the shaft and because of this the slot for the key was beat up as was its mating area in the flywheel... I massaged the area on the flywheel with the air angle die grinder with a 3M medium pad til it barely touched. I had used up all the adjustment on the mounts. I reassembled everything and lo it pulls great! Even had better spark than when it was hitting.
I put it all back together. Mixed up some fuel and attemped to run it. I had 1 1/2 turn out on the mix screw and I think I had the idle all the way in. I only have 1/2 the instructions on the airbox cover. I put full choke on and pulled a few times and it caught. Moved the choke to 1/2 and pulled a couple more and it ran for 10-15 seconds. Thats all I can get out of it. Whats the full starting procedure for this thing? Also plug gap? And idle and mix adjustment procedure once running. Do I have to open the door on the bottom so it won't "starve" for air in the blower housing ?

TIA, Eric


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

To start prine 10+ times, full choke and throttle, pull till if fires or runs, half choke til warm. Should fire in 5 pulls or less. Always adjust the carb with the blower tubes on the blowers.


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Hank, she doesn't have a primer bulb... Should it or is it self priming? Okay, I got it running. But it just doesn't seem to get "full" high throttle. Dunno maybe its me being its only 22cc's and I'm used to my trimmer... I can't seem to bet it to idle up or anything by adjusting the screws... What is the "proper" way to tune the carb? It only has the mixture jet with a big tapered screw for the "idle". I have tuned the carb on my Harley, but this would prolly be a bit different since it only has one jet...

TIA, Eric


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Oh, guess I diodn't realize that you had the older model with no primer. Since they don't have a primer those models tend to be more sensitive to dirt in the carb. Also, they are pretty sensitive to needle settings... on these 1/8 turn can make a lot of difference.

Being they only have one needle to adjust it also tends to be somewhat of a tradeoff between idle and full speed.

Here is how I would adjust the carb. First, make sure the blower tube is on... always adjust a carb with the blower tube on. Open the needle 1 1/4 turn... you should be able to start it. Adjust the idle speed if needed to keep it running at idle. Let it warm up for a couple of minutes.

Now got full throttle and adjust the needle from there. Your final setting should be 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 turns. If below 1 1/4 turn you have an air leak... if above 1 3/4 turn you most likely have a dirty carb. Now drop back to idle and adjust the idle speed. Go full throttle... it should accel. smoothly and run OK after a few seconds.

Now what you may want to do (or need to do if you can't adjust the high speed properly) is turn the blower upside down at full throttle. You will most likely notice it will start to run rich... it may even start to die out it is so rich... if that happens turn right side up to let it clear out and repeat until it runs fine both right side up and upside down.

In these models raw fuel tends to collect in the crankcase. This happens a lot when running rich or at idle for a long time. This can cause it to be hard to adjust the carb and cause uneven running even when it is properly adjusted. Turning it upside down will cause the raw fuel to drain towards the cylinder giving you the rich condition until it burns off.


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Great! Thanks Hank! You rule! Will play w/it tomorrow!

Thanks Again!
Eric


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Okay, after messing around with it a few times. I just cant seem to keep it running. I'll get everything good, run around blow some leaves and grass. And then it won't stay running. I get it to the point of the upside down and rightside up to clean it out and it still doesnt seem to help. I am still within the guidline Hank gave for the turns on the mix screw. I usually have to keep the idle screw all the way in and its no gaurantee that will keep it running... Hmmm, maybe time to give it a decent burial considering what all I found when I tore it apart?

-Eric


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Still sounds like a fueling problem. Did you check the fuel filter and make sure all the fuel are good?


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

YEah the line was fine. It was still soft no leaks. The filter dried out after I flushed it with cleaner. Tank got cleaned and fresh fuel...


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

It is really hard sometimes to tell what it is without actually having it in your hands and trying it. At this point I am at a loss to say what the real problem is.


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## etc1006 (Sep 5, 2005)

Hank I do appreciate ALL your input. Yeah, I know how is it, too. Kinda like taking your car in to the shop and its fine for them  Pretty much I just run it till it stalls, try to adjust/fire it up again. I don't have much to blow around right now. Hopefully by the time the leaves really fly I'll have it just right.

-Eric


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