# briggs 13202 no start



## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

hello everybody, i picked up a log splitter with a briggs 1320202 model engine type 0985-01 code 800051210. it has no spark, i removed the cover and sanded down the module ends the magnet and the top and botom of the module where the bolts contact it. i used a card from a previous change out and on a second attempt tried the dollar bill trick when remounting the module and still have no spark. am i missing something? i was going to change the ignition module next. should i do that or should i try something else first. i don't see a safety switch and didnt expect one from an engine made in 80 but is there one? any and all help is appreciated. thanks in advance.


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## tommyj3 (Sep 16, 2006)

Recheck your model number, is it a 130202 5hp Briggs

If it is change the points and condenser, there located under the flywheel.


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

sorry for the typo. that is the model#130202. thanks for the help that will be my next move then.


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

what about the armature magneto would that have to be changed also?


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

bad plug? PS sometimes theres rust on flywheel, sand those off... im going to check armature. if that dont work try another magneto, electonic ignition magneto, solid state magneto, or magneto with points condensers


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

*update*

so here is an update on my project. i changed the points and condensor and also the coil or magnetron or what ever it is called. it was getting great spark. i put it all back together and attempted to start it. it didn't start. so i pulled the plug and squirted a little gas in the the cylander. on the first pull it fired but only for a few seconds. so i figured at that point i now have a fuel problem. i took off the plug and put more gas in the cylander and nothing. tried again and nothing. tested for and i didn't have any. so i took it apart again and found a split flywheel key. 

my question is why did that happen? is that normal or is there something i did to cause that? does anybody know? your earlier help seemed to work so now i am checking here again. thanks in advance. Bonzo.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

well you sheared a key... whether its normal or not normal i dont know, ive never dont it to my engine


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

What was the flywheel torqued to? They have to be torqued to spec (and a briggs oem key used, aftermarket sucks) or they will shear.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You did not get the flywheel tight enough. You don't have to worry about the brand of flywheel key as long as the flywheel is torqued properly.


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

i purchased the flywheels at napa. they have a small engine division. i am not sure if they are oem. it has a start clutch not a flywheel nut. i don't have a start clutch wrench. i hand tightened it as tight as i could. even to what i thought was going to far. so i really need the wrench then. i have gone through 4 already. thanks again for the info and i am looking forward to more. your help is great.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

hand tightening is not enough, you need a clutch remover ($15 e bay) and a pipe wrench.


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

you guys were right. i torqued it down really well and it starts up. it still quits but starts back up again. so now i have a carb problem. thanks for the input.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

check diaphram, pickup tubes, squirt gas into the carb and see how long it runs, if it runs fine for a few seconds then the carb was not cleaned good enough


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

i cleaned the carb and replaced the diaphram. now it starts but only if i put gas in the carb. choke doesn't do the trick. it will run for a while then it starts to bog out, or if i move the cylander (log splitter) it will bog out or quit. someone i know suggested looking at the muffler. is there anything else?


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## Petebre (Apr 9, 2007)

Check these. 

Did you install spring then the cup behind the diaphragm?

The long pipe supplies fuel from the tank to pump.
The short pipe supplies fuel from the tank cup to the carburetor, check screens on pipes try to blow through
Make sure both are clean.
Remove needle valve clean metering holes, you may need to remove the seat to clean metering holes.


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

i have blown air through both tubes and felt it coming through. i didn't remove the pump diaphram. or the spring and cup. could that cause it to run for a short time then quit? it will start now and run for like 5 minutes. then it quits and it will start right back up but then it will quit again. and start back up. i am puzzled.i was going to remove and replace the pump diaphram next.


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## bonzo (Jun 25, 2005)

*replaced pump diaphram*

i replace the pump diaphram but not the spring and cup. the engine will still start and run for a few minutes and then die. is it necessary to replace the cup and spring also. this thing is driving me crazy.


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## briggs 5hp (Mar 18, 2008)

*Briggs Model 130202 Type 0523-01 Condensor Wire*

I have a Americans Best Tiller with the briggs 5hp model 130202 type0523-01 code 74112507. It has been setting up for a few years but appears to be in good condition. I ran it once last year for about 1hr and it stopped running.

Is it worth repairing? Anyone know how old it is?

I have two wires coming from the condensor. One goes to the coil. The other is not connected, where does it go??

Any help appreciated....


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

no, usually the spring and cap are not something you always have to worry about replacing

did you replace the gasket between the carb and gas tank? because it sounds like you have an air leak somehwere

hows your compression? It might be possible that the head gasket is cracked just a little bit that when the motor is getting hot, the crack is opening up and causeing it to lose compression


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