# How's YOUR Seaview coming along?



## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Well, there was a huge influx of posts on in-progress Seaviews there for a few weeks, now we're not seeing too many progress reports! You guys still building them or what?! I got a month of build time knocked out due to construction in my house, but I'm back at it!

I had finished the lighting system, but now I'm back at it again! LOL. I sat down and started painted the interior components last night, and after doing all of the "screens" in a light flat green and looking at them, I decided it just wasn't going to get it. So, out to the garage workbench, where I proceded to drill over 160 holes and squares out of the console faces! Tedious, but hopefully worth it if my plan works out. 

With all of the lighting in the rest of the ship, I just couldn't stand not trying to add some lights to these consoles. The VoodooFX board still has lot's of room to expand my lighting, so it should be simple. I plan on using some clear acrylic rod, placed along the back of the console, to carry the light from the LED's the length of the parts. I did some testing last night, and it looks to work fine. I will probably back the screens with some colored acetate as well to give them a more realistic look. I'll post some pictures in the next day or two once I get this moving along!  So, how's yours coming along?


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Well, I took time away to detail and weather my Big Millenium Falcon toy I got a few weeks ago...


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Here is my Seaview... finished it ages ago now. VERY nice kit overall.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

nicely done


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## starseeker2 (Jun 13, 2008)

I spend an hour or so whenever I can on it. Almost all my efforts lately have gone into the sail, making 4 doors the proper shape, making the masts retractable, adding a little lever to raise the masts as when they're retracted they're too fragile to grab and pull up with anything, making the two deck level doors operable (the stbd door opens to access the lever), and adding lights to the thing. The sail is now almost completely solid inside, it's so full of stuff, but it is the focal point of the Seaview. Working on the deck now, replaced all the missile hatches, added a missile tube and missile, opened up the limber holes and backed them. Am off to my favorite electronics supplier today for a handful of variable resistors to even out LED brightness so I can start wiring the rest of it. Airbrush parts are in lacquer thinner getting all spotless and clean so I can finish the inside and seal her up. Will post pictures soon.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Finished the interior, cut out the limber holes, did up the FS-1 with the brass interior.
I got hung up trying to figger out how to fit my 18-LED christmas light string and cover all the bases. i put it aside for a while.

This is why I've only finished one model since February. :lol:


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## solex227 (Apr 23, 2008)

Im waiting for the PE set from Paul and will start soon after that. I already have the VoodooFX light set and the Pe for the FS. Will post photos when I start.


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## Knight1966 (Sep 25, 2007)

My PE FS interior arrived last Friday but I've been at work every day from 6 am 'til gone 9pm so not got much further, first coats on, bit more filling and sanding of that damn window seam (which shows through in direct light conditions, not noticeable to the naked eye in low light Paul) Got my interior light source sorted (to be revealed) and found my Spotlights source 30 minutes ago at the supermarket than all I have to do is get the sail 'n' tail lights sorted, final coat and I'll be done, pics to follow.


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Here's mine. Long way to go yet!











I did, however, get a stand cut to replace the existing one. Based on some photo I saw somewhere of someone else's, I just loved the organic looking design of it. The square stubs on the bottom will be embedded into a wooden base for extra stability.












Just finished my Blade Runner blaster replica, (Sidkit version), then need to finish my Halcyon Nostromo, then it's on to this puppy.



.


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## JohnGuard (Jan 13, 2008)

i have finished the interior, have the sub half wired and i have'nt even painted the sub yet!
i have a few questions for my fellow seaview builders:

1) what sequence did you build yours ( ie; wiring first, painted hull, then interior? )

2) did anyone not order the flying sub photoetch interior and build your own?

3) how and where did your paint your entire hull? inside? outside? air brush? paint can?


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

I just got mine - it was a birthday present from my folks the other day! So it currenty looks just like MML's!! 
I plan to order the VoodooFx light kit which os $20 cheaper directly from VoodooFx's web site.

Huzz


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

MML - That's an awesome stand! How / where did you get it done?

P.S. Those are some great looking products in your first photo


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Paulbo said:


> MML - That's an awesome stand! How / where did you get it done?
> 
> 
> P.S. Those are some great looking products in your first photo


I work for a engineering company here in Ireland, (I'm a draftsman) so I just draw them up in Autocad and get the guys on the laser to cut them from stainless steel! Happy days! I'm forever pestering them to make stuff for me for my projects. 

Yep -some good stuff pictured there  - looking forward to getting stuck into it! Never actually used etched brass parts before, gonna be an interesting experience! :thumbsup:



Martin


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

I have the lighting kit so I can finally do some more work on it but I'm also waiting for the photo-etched brass parts and the hull extension from 2 Fat Guys...


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

MML said:


> I did, however, get a stand cut to replace the existing one. Based on some photo I saw somewhere of someone else's, I just loved the organic looking design of it. The square stubs on the bottom will be embedded into a wooden base for extra stability.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The stand was made in resin for the Lubliner Sub.Your stand is beautiful,I plan to cut mine out of acrylic stock so it looks suspended.alexander


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## solex227 (Apr 23, 2008)

jbond said:


> I have the lighting kit so I can finally do some more work on it but I'm also waiting for the photo-etched brass parts and the hull extension from 2 Fat Guys...[/QUOT
> 
> Speaking of 2 Fat Guys, Anyone know when the extension will be done? Also, any word on the 8 window conversion that was in the making? I saw some beautiful work posted here a while back and wonder how far off is the project from being completed??:dude:


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

Waiting for Paulbo's PE parts set to get the correct Doors for the conversion sail I'm making.


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

I'm waiting on Paul's PE as well. But most of the int is painted. Started going long on additional interior details. Hope I don't screw it up! Last thing I did was recarve the vents on the nacelles to make it look more like the formed metal vents they were meant to represent. That was about as fun as cutting out the limber holes! One accident: knocked over the solvent glue onto one of the nacelles. THAT will be fun to clean up! :freak:


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

Throw some putty on it and sand,sand,sand.alexander


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I've been painting on the interior components, while going back and viewing the movie for reference on colors. You really start to realize that the interior of this thing is fairly ad-libbed in regards, to the "actual" ship. (Thats SOME kind of wierd contradiction!) In particular, the walk-thru to the viewing area from the actual bridge area is a big one! But, I don't care, becasue this thing is still kool as hell,and I'm having fun building it! As long as it looks like it outside I'm fine! (No, I'm not opening my limber holes.....it took me a bit to figure out what the heck you guys were even talking about!) I WILL be airbrushing them and more subtle details all over this thing. Obviously they are in the shadows, they need to be shaded! I just can't paint this thing with plain grey primer, it's just not in my nature! I'm opting for a more appealing 
shade of dark sea grey from Tamiya, which has more of a blue hue to it. I did notice that the large model in Admiral Nelsons office, is actually a gloss grey not flat when I was watching the movie! Kind of a "wet" look.


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

MML

Would you be willing to share the Autocad file for your Seaview Stand? I'm also a Drafter, but I don't ready have access to a machine shop, and Stainless isn't cheap ... I'll probably have the stand made from plexiglass ...


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## otto (Jan 1, 1970)

I'm waiting on fiber optics and an "extension' cord for my battery pack. All of the interior painting is done. When the fiber optics come I'll intall them glue the front hull to the back, and finish painting the outside. I really like this kit. I almost didnt buy one because of the huge size (display space) and price ( I've been pretty broke latley, and with so many wonderful things comming out, its been hard to decide which items to choose) But I'm sure glad I did.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*Update with photos........*

Well, I've gotten a bit more work done on mine this last week, despite my granddaughter being born over the weekend! 








This is Evynn. She was born Saturday night and weighed 6 lbs. 7 oz! 








This is my Seaview, and it's starting to weigh as much as Evynn!
I used Tamiya Dark Ghost Grey on the topside, and Model Master Flat Gull Grey on the bottom. No sharp tape line, I did a mild fade job on the hull colors and overlapped them just a wee bit. Much softer look. 








I drilled out and cut almost 300 holes in the controlpanel walls to be backlit.








































I've used red, a few shades of green, clear, yellow LED's to backlight the panels. I will be adding 3 more to what's already here, as well as a clear buld in the roof, and a red on in the roof of the radio shack.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

*A few more shots.....*

Here's a few more interior shots. I have to say, if you don't light this interior, you might as well not build it, because you can't see SQUAT without it! LOL!
I'm serious, it's like a cave in there! 








I like everything neat and tidy, just like when I wire a 1:1 hotrod!








Front spotlight fits inside a brass tube, which really difused the light to the front lens.
















The TV screens are backed with colored mylar, and then the lights are backed with foil to keep it all in!








I used a brighter blue on the floor, mainly for a better visual affect when it will be all buttoned up. I didn't want everything so dark and dull that it was just lifeless. As an artist, I used more bright colors than most of you probably will, but I just think it is more visually appealing. 
Long way to go, but it's been fun so far! :woohoo:


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

That's a really excellant job, Tim. Very impressive!!

I haven't started mine yet ... still waiting for the "Ultimate Lighting Kit" from Gil. I'm looking forward to building mine ... ... after I build my son the "AMTronic" concept car ... the kid has a memory like an elephant. He won't let me forget that I promised to build the concept car for him before I start working on anything else ...

Dan


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

That AMTronic kit is a bear too! LOL! I have a new one waiting to get built. Might not ever happen........


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Tim,
is your staircase upside down?

handrail goes on the top.

what did you use to drill? hand drill? dremel?

how did you clean out the radar screens?


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Hey, your right Lou! LOL! I'll have to flip that sucker over! (This is what happens when you build models till' 1 am!) I drilled everything out using my variable speed moto tools, with micro bits and grinding tools. As you can probably see, it was tough keeping "perfect" rows of holes, but most of them are fairly even, and when it's all put together, you can't tell anyways because you can't see it head on! The screens were done with a very small pointed grinding tip, then I hand filed out the edges and smoothed them. It took some time, but I love the effect with the screens lit up! Thanks for pointing out the handrail goof! I'll fix it tonight! :wave:


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Tim Nolan said:


> That AMTronic kit is a bear too! LOL! I have a new one waiting to get built. Might not ever happen........


Yeah ... I know what you mean:freak:

But it's really nice looking if done right. I built one years ago when AMT first released the kit and then bought 3 kits when the "Millennium" release came out.

My son wanted to build it without any help even though its "Skill Level 2". But from experience I know his novice skills aren't up to this kit (he's only ten and has built three snap kits). It's more like a level 2.9 or 3. Heck, I've had trouble with it in some areas and had to make some radical mods just get some pieces to fit and work right ...

Perhaps somenone should tell AMT that whoever assigns the skill levels should try building a kit first ... then determine what skill/age level it should be.

Dan


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Tim,

Congratulations on being a Grandpa!!!

Dan


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## JohnGuard (Jan 13, 2008)

uh oh! is there a lighting kit for your grandaughter??
oh, she dont need to be lit up, she just beams naturally !!!!!!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Some very fine work going on here,I love it..... I did my holes by hand with a pin vise, then cleaned the large holes (Radar screens) out with a #11 X-Acto blade.I love lighting my models and have cut all the fiber for the large computer display. I use the chips from chaser X-Mass lights for control. The
control room will be lit by some 2500mcd smt White LEDs, easier the dim
them if needed. I have just got done with all the holes I hope to start painting soon.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

that's some terrific seam work there, my friend! any secrets you care to share?
will you be running FO to your big board? or just lighting from behind?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thank you very much for your kind words. No secrets here,just some slow wet sanding then checking my progress. Yes all the lighting will be O.F. and a control circuit I made.
I love blinky lights, I can post a short video of PL J-2 if you'd like. I made a nice 2 transistor flasher that makes an LED look like a strobe light and will use it for the tower light at the top rear. If you look closely at the picture of the front of the sub from the side you can see the O.F. for the tail fins. I got a pair of video glasses with .25" LCD displays in them and will use them for the video displays in the control room, if I can see 
the video on a display that small, if not, I'll just print a image on some frosted film and back light them.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I was in the Air Force and not the Navy so I hope I don't get too much grief for calling the "Sail" the "tower". I should read my post before I push send.......


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

solex227 said:


> Im waiting for the PE set from Paul and will start soon after that. I already have the VoodooFX light set and the Pe for the FS. Will post photos when I start.


Your wait is almost over! I picked up the photo-etch from the fab this evening and begin packaging in the morning!


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Started mine proper today. Did a bit of work on the JaI lighting kit; soldering wires, prepping the fibre optics, drilling holes, etc.
Also got the forward and aft hull halves glued. Still to glue it in the middle.

I'm totally blown away by the thought that went into the design of this kit, like how the joints fit so perfectly. Not going to need much filler here!


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

All of you are doing great work on your Seaview kits! Very nice work, indeed. 

I haven't built anything in good while now. My Seaview is waiting in "the stash". She's in good company. 

MML, I'm glad to see my extra large PDF diagram is being used.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

You guys are doing some great stuff there. :thumbsup: Can't wait to see some finished pics. 

Cheers,
Alec


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Looking Good so far Martin!!!

One small thing I did notice ... It looks you're using Tamiya Paint Thinner ...

I don't know what the cost is in Ireland, but here in California, I can get a pint bottle of 91% Isopropyl Alchohol (91% IPA) for the same cost as a half-pint of Tamiya Thinner ... and the IPA works just as well.

In fact, my LHS doesn't even carry Tamiya Thinner! He tells everyone that wants it to buy either 70/30 or 91% IPA because it's cheaper and works better ... plus the Tamiya Thinner is too expensive for him to keep in stock.

Dan


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## starseeker2 (Jun 13, 2008)

I don't know what's in the Tamiya thinner, but just make sure you use a spray booth or work in a very well ventilated area if using alcohol as a thinner. Actually FSM did an article years ago warning people not to be complacent about breathing acrylic fumes either.

Beautiful work on the Seaviews! And that control room is going to be awesome!


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Thor1956 said:


> Looking Good so far Martin!!!
> 
> One small thing I did notice ... It looks you're using Tamiya Paint Thinner ...
> 
> ...



Hey thanks Dan!
Yeah, the Tamiya stuff isn't cheap... I might look into the alcohol idea... paint and get drunk at the same time


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Guys, quick question - is there a paint guide anywhere for the Flying sub interior? I'm going the route of putting two LEDs inside powered by watch batteries. Need to get the interior painted first!


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

MML said:


> Guys, quick question - is there a paint guide anywhere for the Flying sub interior? I'm going the route of putting two LEDs inside powered by watch batteries. Need to get the interior painted first!


Actually now that I think about it I need a paint guide for the whole thing. I'm seeing conflicting photos of what looks like the miniature - some have blue windows and trim, some black!


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Martin,

In all the research I've done I've never seen a "painting guide" for either the _Seaview_ or the _Flying Sub _... The best I can suggest is go with the color episodes ... there's a link somehwere around here in one of these threads ...

Dan


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

seems are making more work than I exspected, loved the magnet idea for the FS-1

http://s180.photobucket.com/albums/x243/woof359/Seaview/


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I've got a little more work done on my Seaview, just seem to have too many projects and too little time.
This is just a dry fit, no glue yet......


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I posted some pictures of my "active video display" preping that will go into my control room. For a better look at taking a pair of "video eyewear" apart, just go to "my photos".


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

teslabe, what are you going to do with those?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I'm going to use them for the two video displays. I just hope I can see the action on the screens.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

can you even see the screens if the ship is assembled?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

You can see the display in the nose very well, the other one you can see half the display. But I have two displays, may as well use them both......


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## david merriman (Jun 6, 2002)

teslabe said:


> I'm going to use them for the two video displays. I just hope I can see the action on the screens.


Well done, sir! Very innovative stuff.

What will be the source machine for the video projected on the little LCD's?

Keep us informed.

David,


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi David, I have an old Archos P.V.R. (portable video recorder) that I will be using. A friend of mine is going to make me a base that will have room inside, for it and the power supply for all the electronics. The base will be something like the ones I use on the "Nixie Tube Clocks" I build. I got the video eyewear from "YellowMosquito.com" for $125.00. I thought that was a great price....... I have posted pictures of the diassembly of the eyewear in "My Photos".


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi David, I forgot to say "Thank You", for your kind words......


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

I've been filling, sanding and priming 'til I was blue in the face, but I think I've gotten rid of that darn seam! Just a little bit at the bottom to sort out.
I just realised, Halford's grey primer makes a pretty good upper hull colour...


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Very nice work...... I know how much of a pain it was, it took me way too much time to get the seam to go away.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

i was gonna say the nose is the only thing still undone, yours looks great, what are you usiing for filler?


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Looking GOOOOOD Martin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor, a little off topic, your Chariot looks great with grills......


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Thanks for the comments guys!

All I'm using to fill it is Humbrol model filler, it dries pretty fast, and sands very easily. I wet sanded with 400 & 1000 grit sandpaper, and a large amount of elbow grease!
A couple of coats of primer went on there too.


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Thor, a little off topic, your Chariot looks great with grills......



Thank You, Sir

I do apologize for the quality of the photos. I finally got some new batteries for my camera and will be posting some (hopefully) better ones today.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I had some time today and got to spend it working on the ceiling lighting. I had to add the tape to keep from shorting accross the new brass parts in the ceiling......


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

OK, Kent, that has got to be the spiffiest lighting idea I've seen in ages! Great idea using the circuit board for wiring up the LEDs AND for the ceiling.

"New brass parts in the ceiling"? Could it be? Yes! :thumbsup:


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Hi Kent, me again.

I just went back through this thread and realized that you were the "crazy person" adding the active screens! That's so slick! You've also done a fantastic job on the painting.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> OK, Kent, that has got to be the spiffiest lighting idea I've seen in ages! Great idea using the circuit board for wiring up the LEDs AND for the ceiling.
> 
> "New brass parts in the ceiling"? Could it be? Yes! :thumbsup:


Oh yes, none other..... It make the whole control room look sooooo good, I
think they show up very well in the photos, they are just setting in there right now I'm still just checking the fit of everything.
Thank you for a sweet job and I can't wait for the Space Pod upgrade kit,
I just need to find the time to start it...... I keep going back and forth with the Seaview and Chariot. I have some LEDs coming in from China and hope to do some more work on the robot this weekend.:wave:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> Hi Kent, me again.
> 
> I just went back through this thread and realized that you were the "crazy person" adding the active screens! That's so slick! You've also done a fantastic job on the painting.


Ya, that's me, I just hope I can see the action on the screens....... They are only .25" TFT displays. This is all Moebius's fault..... For making such great kits.......:woohoo: Thank you for your remarks on the painting,Paul. it means alot coming from you.....


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

teslabe said:


> I had some time today and got to spend it working on the ceiling lighting. I had to add the tape to keep from shorting accross the new brass parts in the ceiling......



That is just amazing mate...:thumbsup: I like the idea of the cicuit board. make mine seem like it's in a cave.  Are you gonna sofen the lights to resemble the ol' incandecant glow??


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

AJ-1701 said:


> That is just amazing mate...:thumbsup: I like the idea of the cicuit board. make mine seem like it's in a cave.  Are you gonna sofen the lights to resemble the ol' incandecant glow??


Hi AJ,
Thank you very much for the nice words....:wave: The LEDs look brighter in the photos then they are in reality, it's the exposure. I picked the white LEDs
so as to not effect the color of the paints in the control room.


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## Rl3058 (Aug 15, 2008)

Paulbo said:


> MML - That's an awesome stand! How / where did you get it done?


I'd like to get one for my Seaview


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Rl3058 said:


> I'd like to get one for my Seaview


Not a problem - have you access to a laser cutter or waterjet cutter? If so I can send you my Autocad drawing in DXF format! Let me know... anyone else wants it, let me know too...


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

MML said:


> Not a problem - have you access to a laser cutter or waterjet cutter? If so I can send you my Autocad drawing in DXF format! Let me know... anyone else wants it, let me know too...


And ... If you're like me and don't have access to a laser cutter or waterjet cutter, TAP Plastics, or your local equivelant, can make a stand from the full size prints.

But the stand is REALLY COOL :woohoo:

Thanks MML!!! I really do appreciate the DXF file. :thumbsup:

As a side note Martin, the only thing I might suggest for those that aren't fluent in AutoCad is that you might add alternate dimensions in inches. I had to convert to inches and scale the drawing. But for me that was NOT a problem.  I've been working with AutoCad for so long that it's almost second nature for me. If you've dealt with some of the German Consultants we have you'll know what I mean. :drunk: EVERYTHING is in metric and I have to convert down to a 1/64" :freak:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> Not a problem - have you access to a laser cutter or waterjet cutter? If so I can send you my Autocad drawing in DXF format! Let me know... anyone else wants it, let me know too...


Hi MML, if I could ask, could you please send me the dxf file. You did a very nice job on that and I'd love to use it on my kit. Let me know if there is anything I might do for you......:wave:


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Hi MML, if I could ask, could you please send me the dxf file. You did a very nice job on that and I'd love to use it on my kit. Let me know if there is anything I might do for you......:wave:


Hmmm... have you next week's lottery numbers? 

PM me your email address, and I'll get right to it!


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Thor1956 said:


> As a side note Martin, the only thing I might suggest for those that aren't fluent in AutoCad is that you might add alternate dimensions in inches. I had to convert to inches and scale the drawing. But for me that was NOT a problem.  I've been working with AutoCad for so long that it's almost second nature for me. If you've dealt with some of the German Consultants we have you'll know what I mean. :drunk: EVERYTHING is in metric and I have to convert down to a 1/64" :freak:


Lol... imperial's like ancient history to me... I'm only a young 'un of 28! 
But it's a good idea, it would be a help to non-draftsmen!


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## Rl3058 (Aug 15, 2008)

MML said:


> Not a problem - have you access to a laser cutter or waterjet cutter? If so I can send you my Autocad drawing in DXF format! Let me know... anyone else wants it, let me know too...


No MML, I don't have access to those maybe you or Thor can help me out though.


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Hi MML, if I could ask, could you please send me the dxf file. You did a very nice job on that and I'd love to use it on my kit. Let me know if there is anything I might do for you......:wave:


Teslabe, did you get that PM last night? Not sure if there's any way to send files over this site... let me know...


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Rl3058 said:


> No MML, I don't have access to those maybe you or Thor can help me out though.


Guys, is there anyone in the US with access to a cutter that could maybe help RI3058? I can send the dxf no problem....


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Rl3058 said:


> No MML, I don't have access to those maybe you or Thor can help me out though.


Do you have PhotoShop?

If MML doesn't mind I can send you a PhotoShop compatible file ... 

Dan


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## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Thor1956 said:


> Do you have PhotoShop?
> 
> If MML doesn't mind I can send you a PhotoShop compatible file ...
> 
> Dan


Fire away, Dan! :thumbsup: How's yours coming along by the way?


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Rl3058 said:


> No MML, I don't have access to those maybe you or Thor can help me out though.





MML said:


> Fire away, Dan! :thumbsup: How's yours coming along by the way?


Thanks Martin ... will do.

I've been moving into a new apartment and all of my models are still packed up ... I'm about ready to have withdrawels from not working on a kit ... :freak: :drunk:    

But I can get R|3058 the file he needs. I just need to know what format he wants ...


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

I just had a thought ...

RI3058,

PM me your address and I'll send full size drawing ... it's actually easier than trying to convert a AutoCad file. Plus you won't have to figure out how large to print it ... it'll be full size and ready for the cutter.

Dan


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> Teslabe, did you get that PM last night? Not sure if there's any way to send files over this site... let me know...


Hi MML, nothing yet, you can just send it to my email address if you
could. Thank you, I can't wait.......:woohoo:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> Guys, is there anyone in the US with access to a cutter that could maybe help RI3058? I can send the dxf no problem....


I do, let me see the price he gives me for mine, I'll be doing it in Aluminium.
It would be better if i had him do more then just one. Stay tuned.....


----------



## Rl3058 (Aug 15, 2008)

Tried to send you a PM Thor but it says you don't accept them.
But, the problem still remains no access to a cutter.


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

RI3058,

Try PM again ... I had one of the settings wrong ... Sorry.

You don't need a cutter as long as you have a TAP Plastics or equivelant around. They can use the template to cut the parts from Plexiglass.


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

teslabe said:


> I do, let me see the price he gives me for mine, I'll be doing it in Aluminium.
> It would be better if i had him do more then just one. Stay tuned.....


If the price is right, perhaps you can get a slightly larger discount for 3 stands. I was going to use Plexiglass, but if your looking into Aluminum ... I help with the cost ... as long as its not too much.

Keep us posted ...

Dan


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I still don't the file from MML.


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

teslabe said:


> I still don't the file from MML.


Check your e-mail ... I sent you the DWG file ...


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor1956 said:


> Check your e-mail ... I sent you the DWG file ...


Thank you Dan, Yahoo Mail is not working right but I did get the file:thumbsup:
I'll let the group know how things go today.:wave:


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Guys, hold off on the cutting, I made a small edit to the joint where the uprights connect to the horizontal part to make it fit better, I'll resend very soon! 

Dan, I'll send it to you, you can forward it to the others if that's ok?


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

I got the updated file from Martin and I'll pass it along ...

Dan


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

For those that want to use it ... and with MML's permission ... I can send the AutoCad drawing file for his really COOL Seaview Stand.

Just drop me a PM and I'll send the file.

Dan


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Thor1956 said:


> For those that want to use it ... and with MML's permission ... I can send the AutoCad drawing file for his really COOL Seaview Stand.
> 
> Just drop me a PM and I'll send the file.
> 
> Dan


That's ok with me Dan!
Paulbo will be hosting the drawing on his site pretty soon - stay tuned for that...


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> That's ok with me Dan!
> Paulbo will be hosting the drawing on his site pretty soon - stay tuned for that...


Hi All, could I get the updated file, I have quote in now and if there is an
update, I'd like to get before I have the parts made. Thank you very much.


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I just shot the drawings over to you Kent. I'm now unzipping it to make the conversion to PDF. I should have both versions posted to my site tomorrow - I'll list up the direct URL as soon as it's ready.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi All, I'm looking for the "SSRN Seaview" artwork to use on some "MML" stands I'm having
made and thought it would look nice centered on the cross brace. It can be in any format,(bmp,jpg,tif,eps and so on). Any help would appreciated.:thumbsup:


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

I didn't fine any artwork, but I did find this patch and Submariners Dolphins ... 

















Dan


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor1956 said:


> I didn't fine any artwork, but I did find this patch and Submariners Dolphins ...
> 
> View attachment 67468
> 
> ...


Hi Dan, Thank you for taking the time to reply.:wave: I sent "Ductape" a PM
in hopes he'll let me use this.


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Will these help? With my compliments.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Ductapeforever said:


> Will these help? With my compliments.


Thank you very much..... I love them both, do you have a Hi Res copy of the second artwork? If you do, could you please send it to [email protected].
I got a Hi Res copy of the first from your photo album.:woohoo:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Nevermind,Ductape... I just opened it in PhotoShop and this will work very well......:thumbsup: again, thank you.:wave:


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Hi All - Sorry this has taken me so long ... been working on 2 new projects over the weekend and didn't have a chance to make the conversion and create the web page.

But FINALLY, here's the link to Martin's awesome stand: http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Paulbo said:


> Hi All - Sorry this has taken me so long ... been working on 2 new projects over the weekend and didn't have a chance to make the conversion and create the web page.
> 
> But FINALLY, here's the link to Martin's awesome stand: http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp


That's BRILLIANT Paul, thank you!!! :woohoo:

I really need to get mine finished, so I can send you some completed photos!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> Hi All - Sorry this has taken me so long ... been working on 2 new projects over the weekend and didn't have a chance to make the conversion and create the web page.
> 
> But FINALLY, here's the link to Martin's awesome stand: http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp


Hi Paul, It looks great, I got my quote and it looks like $68.00 will be the price per stand, there was a $40.00 hit for extra material needed to add a place on the cross brace for Ductape's Seaview artwork. At $3.18 a lbs for 5052 Aluminum I think it's an O.K. price. I'm having 7 made and will offer the five I'll have left to anyone who want one, just send me a PM. If I get enough people
asking for one, I will have more made and the price will go down.:wave:


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Hi Paul, It looks great, I got my quote and it looks like $68.00 will be the price per stand, there was a $40.00 hit for extra material needed to add a place on the cross brace for Ductape's Seaview artwork. At $3.18 a lbs for 5052 Aluminum I think it's an O.K. price. I'm having 7 made and will offer the five I'll have left to anyone who want one, just send me a PM. If I get enough people
> asking for one, I will have more made and the price will go down.:wave:


Love the logo addition, Kent!!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> Love the logo addition, Kent!!


Thank you very much, Martin.... You did a fantasic job on the stand and when I saw it I thought that a nice logo would just be the "kicker"......:woohoo:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I'm sorry Martin, I did go to Paul's link and the files opened fine.


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

teslabe said:


> I'm sorry Martin, I did go to Paul's link and the files opened fine.


Martin had some trouble initially because I uploaded everything EXCEPT the actual CAD and PDF files. D'oh! (I didn't want to wait for DreamWeaver to do a full site check, so just uploaded the page and it sucked the graphics along with it, but not the linked files.)

All set now, though.


----------



## Rl3058 (Aug 15, 2008)

Thor1956 said:


> RI3058,
> 
> Try PM again ... I had one of the settings wrong ... Sorry.
> 
> You don't need a cutter as long as you have a TAP Plastics or equivelant around. They can use the template to cut the parts from Plexiglass.


Looks like i'm SOL on the stand then.


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Rl3058 said:


> Looks like i'm SOL on the stand then.


Or print out the PDF, glue stick it to some plexi and spend some (very carefull) time with a jigsaw.


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Rl3058 said:


> Looks like i'm SOL on the stand then.


Why such a long face?  Check out Paulbo' site (http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp). The e-files are up and running and the added photos really look good. :thumbsup:

Also, Teslabe is getting quotes for aluminum stands ... looks like they'll run about $75.00 w/ S&H. Check with Teslabe about availability and actual pricing. :wave:

Teslabe,

Put me down for one stand ... :woohoo:

Did you get the updated file I shot you yesterday AM? I thought it might be a nice touch ... but with 1/8" AL, anyone can add the bend with a straight edge ... not a biggy.

Dan


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor1956 said:


> Why such a long face?  Check out Paulbo' site (http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp). The e-files are up and running and the added photos really look good. :thumbsup:
> 
> Also, Teslabe is getting quotes for aluminum stands ... looks like they'll run about $75.00 w/ S&H. Check with Teslabe about availability and actual pricing. :wave:
> 
> ...


Hi Dan,
Sent you a reply, nice idea, let me see how it looks when I get the stands. If I can rescale the image to fit above the bend and it looks ok,then I'll make the bend here at work. You're already on the list, along with "RI3058", so that
leaves 4 stands left. If anyone would like one send me a PM.The more I order, I would think, the price would come down, so I'll hold off on the order til monday and see if I get anyone else above the 7 peices already quoted. I'll
keep you all posted.......:wave:


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Hi Dan,
> Sent you a reply, nice idea, let me see how it looks when I get the stands. If I can rescale the image to fit above the bend and it looks ok,then I'll make the bend here at work. You're already on the list, along with "RI3058", so that
> leaves 4 stands left. If anyone would like one send me a PM.The more I order, I would think, the price would come down, so I'll hold off on the order til monday and see if I get anyone else above the 7 peices already quoted. I'll
> keep you all posted.......:wave:


Heh - I have a dozen or so "prototypes" lying in the garage - it took a while to get the fit just right!!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor1956 said:


> Why such a long face?  Check out Paulbo' site (http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp). The e-files are up and running and the added photos really look good. :thumbsup:
> 
> Also, Teslabe is getting quotes for aluminum stands ... looks like they'll run about $75.00 w/ S&H. Check with Teslabe about availability and actual pricing. :wave:
> 
> ...


Hi Dan,
An update on the stands, I got the Aluminum cut yesterday and will give it to
the guy that will mill it for us, today. I droped the Laser cutter, he wanted too much
and had a minimum 7pcs., that would have cost over $70.00 plus shipping and I would get stuck with four extra stands. If I have it milled it comes to about $49.00 each and I only get stuck with one extra stand. I still like your idea of tilting the logo back but I will make my bends at the ends, just before the forks for the uprights. I'll post pictures when I get the stands, should be about a week. It has been crazy here at work.... We just got turned on to the next phase of the "AARGM Missile" program, "low rate production". So I've
not had the time to work on any of my many kits (one Seaview, 2 Chariots and a Space Pod that has not even made it out of the box...... I hope to get some work done this weekend on the Seaview control room.:wave:


----------



## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

I haven't even a seen a Seaview in stores here in Vancouver, BC, for what it's worth.  Nice build, everyone!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Dr. Brad said:


> I haven't even a seen a Seaview in stores here in Vancouver, BC, for what it's worth.  Nice build, everyone!


I would order from CultTVman, his prices are very good and the model is the
best thing out there....... We all are having "crazy fun" building this fine model.....:thumbsup:


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

teslabe said:


> We just got turned on to the next phase of the "AARGM Missile" program, "low rate production". So I've
> not had the time to work on any of my many kits (one Seaview, 2 Chariots and a Space Pod that has not even made it out of the box...... I hope to get some work done this weekend on the Seaview control room.:wave:


I know what you mean Kent.

Leprino Foods is building a new Cheese Plant in Greeley, CO with a permit date of Feb 2009. I've been working furiously to get Structural drawings ready in spite of the changes that LFC keeps making.

Still working on a Chariot, AMTronic, Space Pod and Shuttle Craft. We finally got moved into our new apartment and unpacked, but now I'm trying to find a place to set up my airbrush and paint booth ... :drunk:

Ya know ... the IMPORTANT stuff ...


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor1956 said:


> I know what you mean Kent.
> 
> Leprino Foods is building a new Cheese Plant in Greeley, CO with a permit date of Feb 2009. I've been working furiously to get Structural drawings ready in spite of the changes that LFC keeps making.
> 
> ...


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Not a problem Kent ...

Just let me know when to send the payment.

Dan


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Finally got the first stand and it looks nice, but the aluminum is hard to keep
shiny:freak: If I had the time and didn't mind the cost I'd do it in stainless.....
I think a good clear coat will do the trick, hope to have the rest by Monday.:woohoo:


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Very swish :thumbsup:


----------



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

I am incredibly impressed ! My logo design looks fabulous on it , great work. Glad you could make use of it. How much for the stands?


----------



## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Hi Dan,
> An update on the stands, I got the Aluminum cut yesterday and will give it to
> the guy that will mill it for us, today. I droped the Laser cutter, he wanted too much
> and had a minimum 7pcs., that would have cost over $70.00 plus shipping and I would get stuck with four extra stands. If I have it milled it comes to about $49.00 each and I only get stuck with one extra stand. I still like your idea of tilting the logo back but I will make my bends at the ends, just before the forks for the uprights. I'll post pictures when I get the stands, should be about a week. It has been crazy here at work.... We just got turned on to the next phase of the "AARGM Missile" program, "low rate production". So I've
> not had the time to work on any of my many kits (one Seaview, 2 Chariots and a Space Pod that has not even made it out of the box...... I hope to get some work done this weekend on the Seaview control room.:wave:


How do you open this file?


----------



## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Finally got the first stand and it looks nice, but the aluminum is hard to keep
> shiny:freak: If I had the time and didn't mind the cost I'd do it in stainless.....
> I think a good clear coat will do the trick, hope to have the rest by Monday.:woohoo:


REALLY LOOKS GOOD Kent :woohoo:

Just let me know when to hit the PayPal button.

Ductape,

Can't say enough about how good your logo looks on Martins design.

I think the only thing needed is a block of Dark Walnut or Cherry ...

Dan


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Antimatter said:


> How do you open this file?


What file are you trying open?


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thor1956 said:


> REALLY LOOKS GOOD Kent :woohoo:
> 
> Just let me know when to hit the PayPal button.
> 
> ...


Hi Dan, Yes the stand turned out great..... Thank you very much Ductape
for the very nice artwork and Thank you very much Martin for letting me use
your great design.:thumbsup: Dan, your right about a wood base, I plan to
use Crown Molding in Walnut as a frame with a flat black Plaxiglass top, receased, like I used for my Nixie Tube Clocks. I need the space underneath
for the video player, for my screens in the control room, and the power supply
to run it all.


----------



## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

teslabe said:


> What file are you trying open?


http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp

Never fooled with a cad file.


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Antimatter said:


> http://modeling.paragrafix.com/other/SeaviewStand/SeaviewStand.asp
> 
> Never fooled with a cad file.


Why not open the PDF version that's listed under them?


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> Why not open the PDF version that's listed under them?


Thanks Paul for helping him out, I had no idea what file he was talking about.:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi All, I pulled my offer on the stands, I didn't want to offer something I don't have permission yet to use......:drunk: I sent a PM to Martin and if he gives me the OK I'll let you all know.


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

Sorry I'm late guys!! Been away for a while. 
Yeah, feel free to go ahead, Kent! I loved seeing the pics of the finished result, it looks way better with the logo added! :thumbsup:
It'll be better with the little square stubs on the bottom embedded into a wooden base. If you're leaving it as-is it'll look nicer with them cut off.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> Sorry I'm late guys!! Been away for a while.
> Yeah, feel free to go ahead, Kent! I loved seeing the pics of the finished result, it looks way better with the logo added! :thumbsup:
> It'll be better with the little square stubs on the bottom embedded into a wooden base. If you're leaving it as-is it'll look nicer with them cut off.


Welcome back, Martin..... Thank you for letting me move forward on the stand:woohoo: I know that the stubs detract for the look of the stand
but it kept felling off of my first stand after a few times of taking it apart,
and if you take your sub to shows, as is, the stubs keep it together. As you said, one can always cut them off, but it's hard to put sometime under it after
they are gone, just thought I'd give them options.....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Now that I have the "Green light" from Martin, I will offer the stands with
artwork included for $75.00 plus shipping, unless, I get at least 25 orders,
then the price drops to $65.00. Just send me a PM if interested.


----------



## MML (Apr 20, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Now that I have the "Green light" from Martin, I will offer the stands with
> artwork included for $75.00 plus shipping, unless, I get at least 25 orders,
> then the price drops to $65.00. Just send me a PM if interested.


How do you find the fit against the hull? I tried to get it as close as possible, it took a bit of tweaking!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

MML said:


> How do you find the fit against the hull? I tried to get it as close as possible, it took a bit of tweaking!


Since all the Laser cutters wanted so much for such a small run, I had it 
machined and used a .125" end mill, taking it down .150" and it work great.
Sorry for taking the low cost way out.


----------



## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Just found this thread.

Just sent you a PM Teslabe on the stand.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

An idea for your Seaview, Belly light and Nose light bezels.


----------



## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Very niiice!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

gareee said:


> Very niiice!


Thank you, these are leftovers from my Chariot headlight bezels.:wave:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Here is an update on the nose/belly light guards I made from some Brass
#6 finishing washers.... Did the belly lights have guards on them?


----------



## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Did the belly lights have guards on them?


Just the nose spotlight before the FS refit 2nd season.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Antimatter said:


> Just the nose spotlight before the FS refit 2nd season.


Hi Antimatter, thanks for the info, I guess my build will not be accurate.... I hope I don't get scolded to badly.:wave:


----------



## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Hi Antimatter, thanks for the info, I guess my build will not be accurate.... I hope I don't get scolded to badly.:wave:


To each his own I alway's say. :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I Just can't leave this tread go, If you thought Chrismas was going to be slow, here is something you might like to try. The Radar Dish in motion.:thumbsup: I will post more pictures after I get back from my Christmas trip... Here is something to get you going. I have never posted a video this why so let me know it works.... Also here is my start with the O.F.
work of the main computer display..:freak:It looks like I can't post videos here, so if you would to see it
in action, just send me a P.M. The video is in "My Photos", take a look if you have the time. The servo
was modified so it would spin 360.


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

That's awesome Kent! The moving video looks super (Teslabe sent it over to me - I'm not trying to be a smart ***)

The light wall is killer - people with super steady hands to be able to drill a nice grid like that amaze me. (My own klutzi-ness is what led me to include the drilling guide for the grabhandles with the photoetch.)


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Yes, I know, I could have done a second servo to move the antenna up or down, but why, It's fine as is. I think I need to move on to other things.....


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> That's awesome Kent! The moving video looks super (Teslabe sent it over to me - I'm not trying to be a smart ***)
> 
> The light wall is killer - people with super steady hands to be able to drill a nice grid like that amaze me. (My own klutzi-ness is what led me to include the drilling guide for the grabhandles with the photoetch.)


OMG Paul..... My face is so red,:drunk: For someone of your caliber to even reply to my post, I can only say thank you for even taken the time to look at my pictures.:wave: This is just so much fun for me that only Moebius can take credit for the fun I have had.....:wave: Keep it going guys.....:woohoo:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

The pictures of the Computer wall are of it only half way done... It will be done after Christmas vacation, I hope....


----------



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

teslabe said:


> For someone of your caliber to even reply to my post ...


My wife is STILL laughing at this. I think you must have me confused with someone else.

Cheers,
Paul


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> My wife is STILL laughing at this. I think you must have me confused with someone else.
> 
> Cheers,
> Paul


Wifes and girlfriends tend to keep us from getting full of ourselfs...
Enjoy your Holidays and be safe.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

That spinning radar dish is COOL, and just the right speed, too!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Seaview said:


> That spinning radar dish is COOL, and just the right speed, too!


Thank you very much.... The speed was purely accidental. I was just "running-in" the gears and making sure the epoxy didn't migrate under
the servo. FYI, I got these servos off EBay for $29.99 for six and free shipping from 
China. If anyone would like the link, shoot me a PM.


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

mate the spinning radar is awsome. :woohoo: Talk about extra dimension. Nice job:thumbsup:

Cheers,

Alec. :wave:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

AJ-1701 said:


> mate the spinning radar is awsome. :woohoo: Talk about extra dimension. Nice job:thumbsup:
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alec. :wave:


Hi Alec, Thank you very much, Just thought I'd do one last thing before going
back to Niagara Falls,NY for Christmas. I'm hoping for snow...... Have a very
Merry Christmas, Boxing Day and New Years my friend.:wave:


----------



## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Did you use hot glue to secure your FO to the wall?


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

starmanmm said:


> Did you use hot glue to secure your FO to the wall?


No, I used 5min.Epoxy and only did one row at a time, giving each, 24hrs to fully cure. This is something you can't do fast. The slower you go, better it will
look.:thumbsup: I had the time, as I was doing work on my "Radar Dish" mod. Have a great Holiday and enjoy your builds.:wave:


----------



## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

So epoxy won't damage the FO/

I figured it would like CA would.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

starmanmm said:


> So epoxy won't damage the FO/
> 
> I figured it would like CA would.


No, it won't. Epoxy is a Resin and Hardener mix that
encapsulates the FO and works very well. It will not
attack the fiber like CA will.

Let me know if my reply to your PM made sense, these servos
need to be modified to spin completely around. Most servos will 
only go 220degs max. The ones I used go 180degs, I can send
you detailed photos of the mods you need to make. I have some 
modified servos left if you don't want to mess with it.:wave:


----------



## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Yup.... got your reply... but go ahead and send the pics please!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

starmanmm said:


> Yup.... got your reply... but go ahead and send the pics please!


I'll get them to you after I get back from sunny Niagara Falls on Dec 31.


----------



## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Works for me!


----------



## 71challenger (Nov 22, 2008)

Haven't considered a Seaview before but the Flying Sub kit is getting me interested. Some nice builds here. I was wondering if anyone has built the Seaview using any of the photoetch kits that are available. I've not seen any pictures of detailed build ups so far.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

71challenger said:


> I was wondering if anyone has built the Seaview using any of the photoetch kits that are available. I've not seen any pictures of detailed build ups so far.


I'm sorry that the control room pictures I posted don't show the photoetch
beams very well, but they look great......:thumbsup: I got mine from Paulbo at-

http://www.modeling.paragrafix.com/product_detail.asp?MainCat=Photoetch&SubCat=blank&PPartNum=PGX102

Take a look at his site.......


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here' a shot of the lit interior.
Working on her since Christmas.










I just finished lighting and sealing the sail today, pics to follow.

Steve


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## starseeker2 (Jun 13, 2008)

Fiddling with thousands and thousands of little tiny bits. Filling and sanding and filling and...


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

That is amazing and I thank you for that picture....
WOW.:thumbsup:


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## starseeker2 (Jun 13, 2008)

Thanks. I've found that on a build this long, I really need this group - to see what everyone is doing, all the beautiful work that's going on, all the enthusiasm - to keep me insipired and going. In 2009's Great Scale Modeling, one of the features captions mention what parts of modeling the modelers enjoy and what they don't. The part I don't is the filling and sanding. But last night I got the three missile hatches finished. I originally had one hinged, but it looked so cool I thought three would look at least as. And the original was a tiny bit out of square when open, so I could fix that as well. 
Time to fill and sand the surgery, I guess.
Best of luck on your rc. I've watched Mr. Merriman's video and seeing the Seaview surface and dive is amazing. It was a kidhood dream of mine to have one so I'm sure looking forward to seeing yours when it's done. Back in the 80s, I even collected any ship modeling magazine that had rc sub articles in it. What fun!


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Here is a post I ran by Mr Merriman on some possible alternatives...read along and find out below what he said.
 

I have two subs coming. Looking at the Dave Merriman/Mike Caswell Snort D&E Sub-Driver conversion kit for one model positively. 
http://www.caswellplating.com/models/seaview.html

I might do the second one with a Dave Welch kit if I can get one from BigDave. 
http://www.frontiernet.net/~bwelch/inthe.htm

I like two ideas that were incorporated by Dave Welch. No cutting and pumpjet openings in the keel. I should be able to make the Merriman one with the seam method. I may go without front dive planes. I would rather not cut any part of the model if I can help it. While a RCABS worked well for Steve Neills and I do have a RCABS pump from Art Broder, I am thinking I might try a bladderbag and two way water pump if I can get a BigDave Pumpjet.

This is Steve Neills RCABS version of BigDaves. 
http://s181686668.onlinehome.us/phpBB2/viewtopic.php5?t=7973&start=0

Pics from Steves build, No working front dive planes or sail planes. 
#1 No cutting...only use existing seams with a clever magnetic missle hatch.



#2 550 PumpJet with vents in the keel


Steve Neills SeaView


I have been thinking of adding depth control from the nicelle rear fins like this.


Well it turns out that Mr Merrimans Seaview has no nose dive issues. So to make it work properly I will need to have the front manta fins functional and also most of my water intake above the Nicelles, not on the keel portion, as this contributes to nose pitch with backward motion. So I will make them as Mr Merriman suggests. However he did conceed that with internal fixed vanes in the nicelles that you can do without the cutting of the manta fins and front bow planes. I do plan on trying to not glue anything but the windows. The way Steve Neills approached his build was genius. I have ordered 100 1/4 x 1/16 neodymium discs.

I also got an email from Dave Welch and No pumpjets from the orignal setups pictured above will be sold. Dave Welch is working on a replacement powerplant. His WTC for the SeaView are coming this spring.

I am looking forward to my Caswell/Merriman Snort SeaView as my first project this year and sailing my Robbe SeaWolf Dynamic Diver with my SeaView Static Diver.

Here is an excellent thread by Stingfly
http://s181686668.onlinehome.us/phpBB2/viewtopic.php5?t=7847&highlight=seaview


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Starseeker, your work is just incredible. I am still geeking out over your door and missile hatches...what a joy to behold in the raw form. What amazing detail.
May I share this over at the Caswell and Subcomissions forums?


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## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

What diameter brass rod should be used for the rudder connector?


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## starseeker2 (Jun 13, 2008)

Junglelord. Thanks! Feel free.
Unless something terrible happens, last night I glued the final little tiny piece of plastic to my Seaview. Now it's down to another coat of primer, and final sandings, and actual painting can begin. So these are my very last under construction photos. 
I'm going to rename and update my build thread one of these days. In fact, I think I'll try to nuke that thread and start it fresh.
(PS) The prop tubes are stuffed with paper towel. The stbd sail door opens to get to the lever that raises the masts. And all the rough edges are, rough edges.


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