# Revell 1:25 68 Charger R/T - F8 Ice Charger Build



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

Hi first time on here. I used to made model cars in the past so I've come back to it. I'm currently attempting to build the Ice Charger from Fate and the Furious and wanted help in regards to making the extended wheel arches. I've cut our the larger wheel arches and am planning to use 0.03mm styrene sheet for the base shape, and then to use millput to create the thickness and curves. Would this work ok or is there an easier way?


----------



## 69ch (May 30, 2015)

I dont have answers although applaud the effort and look forward to seeing the progress. 

Meanwhile, another Ice Charger fan here! 










Eric


----------



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

Nice how long did it take?


----------



## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

Tickets79 said:


> am planning to use 0.03mm styrene sheet for the base shape, and then to use millput to create the thickness and curves. Would this work ok or is there an easier way?


That is probably how i would do it. i can't think of an easier way


----------



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

Well it took me a while but I found the closest style of wheel needed for the build. And at a bargain also!!! Deep set rims close to the style of the original.
Resin has been placed for the wheel arches so just waiting for that to dry and I can crack on shaping and sanding.
Also attempting to make my own sport seats. Will need to work on this a bit to try and get it as close to the Sparco seats as possible.


----------



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

That's it for the weekend. Next step to start in the interior and roll cage. Does anyone have any tips on how to work out the roll cage angles? So nothing touches the car body.


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Just like in a 1:1 careful measurements. The advantage you will have is the ability to dry fit the body, passenger section, window and the roll bar pieces together to do the final assembly. My tips would differ depending on the material you are going to use for the roll bar pieces. Solder wire would be my preference to work with though. ?


----------



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Just like in a 1:1 careful measurements. The advantage you will have is the ability to dry fit the body, passenger section, window and the roll bar pieces together to do the final assembly. My tips would differ depending on the material you are going to use for the roll bar pieces. Solder wire would be my preference to work with though. ?


Solder wire sounds like a good idea. Didn't think of using that.


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

If you go with solder you can also make brass tube fittings to fit the pieces together and as mounting points. That will make it a little less fragile. Wire insulation will also work as fittings but is a bit wobbly still.

(Are you also thinking of insulated single strand wire now instead of solder?)

I also have used Elmers glue before. And now Loc Tites indoor adhesive, to hold the pieces together for test fits both with and without the fittings. Sometimes you can leave that in place if it is not to visible.


----------



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

I'm still unsure with the visibility side. I'm torn between a do and don't remove the doors. It does look cool but there's the worry of miss cutting and planning out the hinges and adding internal panels to hide everything. Wire insulation sounds good also and I was at first thinking of using soft garden wire also. It can be easily bent into shape and also has that same effect as insulation does. I think it all boils down to the joins but it's also making it look like the joints were almost welded together. Maybe Millput will take care of this once the pieces are glued together.
What would your recommendation be to someone who's never attempted this before?


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

I would first build one (or several) with no intention to fit inside this model. That way you can experiment on the appearance and technique you want to use. And maybe test out different materials and which is easier to work with for you. Once you get those techniques and materials down you can better shape one to fit the driver seat area for this one. You will also probably be able to modify the test one (or one of them) to fit this model and others later on.


----------



## Tickets79 (Feb 22, 2020)

Latest update. Been working on the cockpit metalwork, console and boxed area for the Fuelsafe tank and exhaust.
Hard working from photos taken from online but the next step will be to layer cutout sections to make parts look more like it's shaped metal panel sheets, and then fill and sand any sharp edges.
It took me a while to go through YouTube videos and pausing/screenshot to get as much information as possible. Fingers crossed it all works out.


----------

