# polar Lights J2 help



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I've finally started my PLJ2. I've only had it for 10 years!

I have the the DF Howard fusion core, tango Papa decals, and the Skyhook seats. I'm building it with the landing gear down, and have cut out the area for the landing gear wells. I've cut out a large part of the lower hull for the fusion core, but I need to widen it more.

I'm only building the main deck, and I have not decided if I'm going to have the top removable. I do plan on putting in a couple of grain of wheat bulbs to light the interior.


I have a couple of questions that I hope someone can answer. 

How have people been attaching/mounting the fusion core?

Any idea on getting power to the inside? I would like to avoid a battery access area, or micro jack. I might run wires up 2 of the legs and put contacts on the bottom of them.

Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mark


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Nothing.

Nobody ever build one?


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

I can only really comment on the fusion core since I have one myself. While it has those double switches, your best bet would be to run the wires down (through?) one of the landing legs - so you'll need to mount your J2 on a base to keep the wires running out the bottom from breaking. You will need to plan your model/base idea as well. Please note I am assuming instead of contact points as you suggest and running the wires straight through. One thing that leaving the top removable is that there is that nasty seam that really breaks up the otherwise clean lines of this lovely ship!

I never actually got to the point of completing the landing leg wells of my J2, although I did get the holes cut out. I had a lot of ambitious plans that never made it to completion. I am not making excuses other than I had a LOT of pressures and stresses at that time. It took quite a long time to get over that but that J2 is languishing in a box... still can't face the build on that one yet.

I advise caution on the GOW bulbs for your internal lighting. Compared to LEDs, they're very short-lived and if you want to use them, you'll have to make sure you can access them with minimum damage to your model later.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks very much! I agree about gluing the top down. good points on the bulbs, I think your correct I should upgrade them to LEDs. 

This J2 has been in the box for ever. I cut out the bench seats in 2000 and that was the last I touched it until last week. 

Cutting the gear wells was not that hard. I used my dremel with a cut off wheel, then cleaned it up with files/sand paper. I did drill corner holes in the wells, but I think that step can be skipped. I did notice that at the end of one gear well is a support/guide for the upper floor that needs to be removed. Not a big deal. 

The fit of the fusion core is giving me some grief. Still have to work that out.

I'm making this up as I go. I think I'll use the lower floor as a support for the upper floor to get the spacing correct. I cut slots in the floor to match the gear wells.

Thanks again


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

A few photos so far:


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## X15-A2 (Jan 21, 2004)

One of the former members of this BB had a great idea for attaching things (hatches and other removable sections) that needed to be removable, he used magnets. They are cheap and come in all sizes. Just glue them in to one piece and glue an exacto blade or other piece of ferrous metal to the other piece. Instant hidden "latch"! You can also put in registration pins to keep things aligned. Good luck with your ship.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Good Idea! I might try it on the top.


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## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

Mach -

I've also got an unbuilt Polar Lights J2 kit and the DF Howard fusion core and dome lights. I confess that one of the things that slowed me down when it came to starting the kit was the fusion core design of the kit. The look of the fusion core after all the parts are in place isn't particularly satisfying. I was also a bit unsure about the installation of the fusion core light unit because it required cutting into the model itself.

It's interesting - I see all kinds of great ideas and interpretations to make this kit as perfect as possible. My two major concerns was the look of the fusion core and wanting to incorporate retractable landing gear into the model. The more I want from it, the less I get done.

I hope you get satisfactory answers to get you on your way.

Bryan


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I think I've got the fusion core figured out. I sanded the opening I cut in the bottom of the hull just larger than the LED fixture. I then cut a sheet styrene flat to go over the inside of the hull bottom, I cut a slot for the wires. I think I will epoxy the LED fixture to the outside of this flat, feed the wires inside the hull. I like WarpCore Breach's idea of running wires down the legs. Maybe a micro plug in one or two of the feet.

I think, for me, the best option is just the upper deck with the feet down. The possibilities with this kit are almost endless, but it sat in the box for 10 years it was time to do something. 

Thanks for the input.

Mark


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## JPhil123 (Jan 1, 1970)

Gemini1999 said:


> Mach -
> 
> I've also got an unbuilt Polar Lights J2 kit and the DF Howard fusion core and dome lights. I confess that one of the things that slowed me down when it came to starting the kit was the fusion core design of the kit. The look of the fusion core after all the parts are in place isn't particularly satisfying. I was also a bit unsure about the installation of the fusion core light unit because it required cutting into the model itself.
> 
> ...


Hello...
The fusion core and the thick and wavy plastic view port are the negatives for me. I'm far from a model building expert, but I replaced the viewport with high quality plastic on the nicest Jupiter 2 I built (replacement was not easy for me, it took many attempts over many days to get it perfect; sometimes the cuts would be perfect but there would be a scratch or things of that nature). I always hoped that there might be an aftermarket kit of a more accurate fusion core but there was not. 

I believe that the fusion core "as is" is acceptable if you plan to display with the landing gear down as this sort of covers the size inaccuracy, but even then it is still too small (maybe the word is too narrow). I had a Gemini XII model built for me out of a PL kit and, since I was paying anyhow, I asked for the 32 fusion core "fins" to be added to give the Gemini fusion core a wider larger appearance. I'm sure the Gemini XII had no fins, but if you think the fusion core is poor/small on a straight J2 buildup, it is way too small if you want a Gemini version. It also looks to small if you want the Jupiter 2 to be in an "in-flight" mode.

As far as the fusion core goes, you might want to experiment with adding the fins to give the fusion core a more accurate appearance. I loved how the fins looked so much that when time permits I want to add fusion core fins to all my Jupiter 2s. As far as what to cut on the lower hull, I removed the flat circular shaped area to make a hole so that there is room for the fusion core lights to sit in the interior of fusion core piece without being damaged by that portion of the hull that needs to be removed. You need the lip on the outside/bottom of the lower hull to hold the fusion core on. I did not glue the fusion core on permanently, but rather used the white colored model adhesive they have (can't remember its name) to hold the finished/painted fusion core on the bottom lip. The adhesive is the one that dries clear. The fusion core itself can be removed. I can't comment on the landing gear as I have one Jupiter 2 with the gear down in a landed mode, and others in an inflight mode.

Check out my Gemini XII in the photo gallery to see the fins. They were professionally added, but they don't seem to be so difficult to do, and are just tedious to cut and mount.

Best of luck...
Jim


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

mach7 said:


> Nothing.
> 
> Nobody ever build one?


I did: how I did it. (some of the links are broken but most of the pages are still there...)


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Very nice build! Hope mine comes out half as good.

Thanks

Mark


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

mach7 said:


> I have a couple of questions that I hope someone can answer.
> 
> How have people been attaching/mounting the fusion core?


Hot glue-gunned to the fusion-core clear external piece. The glue wasn't hot enough to damage the circuit (apparently) and isn't a solvent. 



mach7 said:


> Any idea on getting power to the inside? I would like to avoid a battery access area, or micro jack. I might run wires up 2 of the legs and put contacts on the bottom of them.
> 
> Any other advice would be appreciated.
> 
> ...


A 9V battery inside the spaceship is enough to power the DF Howard core for hours (I think that's what it is designed for). But then I left the top removable so battery access wasn't an issue.

Grain-o-wheat bulbs probably use 1.5 or 3V, so you have the difficulty of finding the right resistor size if using only a 9V source to keep from burning them out. If you string them together (i.e. 3 bulbs at 3V each to match a 9V source) there is the added concern of when one bulb fails they all fail.

Consider using LEDs instead; they're still only 3v but it's easier to find the specifications and they're much more reliable than bulbs. A 330ohm resistor with a 9v supply is correct for most LEDs (higher ohms/dimmer light is OK too). 

I also went the route of an external battery source in addition to the internal 9V battery; kind of a "power cart" tricked out for displaying the model. I kept the 9V internal battery for when it flies around under it's own power. 

For the external source I rigged 6 D cells in series to provide a 9V source so there were no worries. That and the D cells have enough power to last for days. 

I used an audio jack as the power connector as this was smaller than most power connectors. Not a good idea for fine electronics (electrical shorts if not careful) but good enough for this application. The audio jack has the other advantage of switching the power supply from internal to external just by plugging in the male connector from the power cart. The jack itself was hidden in the top of a landing gear well.


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

The fusion core should snap on the ring on the bottom hull. If not, you can use some Aleene's Tacky Glue. It is siilar to white glue and will not harm the clear plastic. It is available at Walmart and most craft stores.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks guys.

My fusion core does not "snap" into the clear external ring. I have Aleene's
tacky glue, use it for rockets-good stuff and should work well here.

Steve,

Thanks for the info on the LED resistors. After the advise I read here I think LEDs are the way to go.

I like the idea of the audio jack. I was thinking of building an external power receptacle, as in an aircraft. It seems it should have one.


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## Rick N (Dec 30, 2008)

Steve244 said:


> I did: how I did it. (some of the links are broken but most of the pages are still there...)


Hi Steve, That is one awesome Jupiter 2 you have built! Rick N :wave:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I don't suppose anyone knows of a fusion core masking set? It's going to be fun painting it by hand.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

no. but it's a necessary rite of passage.

actually if I recall, cutting strips of tape wasn't that bad. Zen like.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

JAI has a 2 piece fusion core -- the core, and a vacuform clear insert. It's sweet! No masking required at all in that case.

His URL is www.justanillusion.biz.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Hey thats cool!But it kind of seems like cheating. They have the gear wells also. I just completed building my gear wells so I don't need them. 

Thanks
much

Mark


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

g_xii said:


> JAI has a 2 piece fusion core -- the core, and a vacuform clear insert. It's sweet! No masking required at all in that case.





mach7 said:


> Hey thats cool!But it kind of seems like cheating...


If your kit isn't faithful to you, why should you be faithful to your kit? 

I plan to make the mask elements using a compass cutter. That is, if I don't rebuild the core frame myself.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

toyroy said:


> If your kit isn't faithful to you, why should you be faithful to your kit?


Man, now I wounder where it has been going late at night...


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I've made a bit of progress. Here is the upper deck dry fitted. I still have some work to do. I don't like the yellow on the vertical buttresses, and I have a lot of clean up still to do.

I opened up the gravity generator panel, The wave distributors are too large, but they were not really visible when they were the correct size. I also built up the viewer at the com panel. 

The Stasis panels were a bit tough. The center panels were painted silver, then a coat of clear blue, finally a wash of flat white.

I have the JAI fusion cover almost ready to go. 

I'm still trying to figure out the elevator. I have brass wire that I could use. I just know I don't want to use the stock one unless I open it up. Any Ideas?

Thanks

Mark


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## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

mach7 said:


> I've made a bit of progress. Here is the upper deck dry fitted. I still have some work to do. I don't like the yellow on the vertical buttresses, and I have a lot of clean up still to do.
> 
> I opened up the gravity generator panel, The wave distributors are too large, but they were not really visible when they were the correct size. I also built up the viewer at the com panel.
> 
> ...


Mark -

For the lighting panels on the buttresses, you could temper down the yellow by mixing in a bit of white to mellow the color down a bit. The color as used is a bit strong. I plan on painting mine in a similar way and then trimming the edges of the lighting panels with a fine line of silver/aluminum. Maybe bare metal foil might work there.

The wire idea for the elevator cage isn't a bad idea. I've tried opening up the one that came with the kit, but even when you trim it out, the scale of the "rods" is still too heavy. I never thought about scratch building one.

I do like how your stasis panels came out - the layered paint effect you used looks really good.

I like what you've got going so far - looks terrific!

Bryan


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Mark, it looks fantastic so far. I never get tired of viewing these builds, and it's great to see the subtle takes everyone has on this kit to make it just thier own way. Looks like you've got all the right parts. I used the Kit Factory core unit, and it almost fits perfectly in between the hull and the core cover, just a small gap. It is activated by a magnet, so easy to turn on. I actually have 3 9V batteries under the floor of mine, powering 3 different light sets. I lit the tubes and the interior panels. I used TSDS decals, some transparent panel replacements I got off ebay, anything I could get my hands on! Taping off the core cover isn't THAT bad, just takes some patience and time, worth the effort. I haven't posted my build, not quite finished, but almost. I am going to make my own seats from sheet plastic and rod. Can you tell me what the dimensions of the resin seats are for reference? Keep us posted on your progress, looks great so far! :thumbsup:


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

I make the top and botttom of the elevator for my Jupiter 2 build-ups from fiber washers. Fiber works a lot better than metal because it is easier to drill through. The upright supports are 1/16" and 1/32" wire and the curved cage pieces are 1/16" aluminum tubing. They are not easy to build, but the end result is worth the time. The pieces supplied in the Polar Lights kits are not wide enough. You can use the kit part as a guide. The photos below are the prototype for the newest version. The final photos will be posted on my site when they are completed. 

Geminibuildups

GEMINI MODEL BUILD-UP STUDIOS
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks guys! Good tips all.

Tim, I'll post the dimensions later today.

Bryan, That should work well.

geminibuildups thats an impressive elevator! Did you use CA glue on it?

Mark


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## Chuck Eds (Jul 20, 2009)

Hey Mark, I got my JII ten years ago too, and only recently feel it's at the point where I'm pretty much satisfied. Just in time for a new version!

I used the fusion core from the Trendmaster's JII playset, this was way before there was an aftermarket replacement. I added fins as well, although some have fallen off.

You can clean up the edges on the hull too, sand them down for a nice tight seam. I glued the "roof" on as well, to get that classic profile! I also framed in the viewport, I always thought it was too big.

Hope some of this helps you out...

Chuck


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

mach7 said:


> Thanks guys! Good tips all.
> 
> geminibuildups thats an impressive elevator! Did you use CA glue on it?
> 
> Mark


Yes. I used CA and sprayed it with accellerator. Just have to work SLOWLY and then sand off any excess when it is cured. I think I used 1/16" fiber washers for the base and top. I'll have to check the package. 

It does look a lot better when you seal the top part of the upper hull on. 

Geminibuildups

GEMINI MODEL BUILD-UP STUDIOS
www.geminibuildupstudios.com


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Wow, nice looking ships! 

Thanks.

Tim,

The seats are:

Base 5/16 by 8/16

back 1/2 in square

cushions:

top 6/8 x 1/2

bottom 6/8 x 6/8

Hope this helps

I have the Cult TV man book, but I can't get a good scan of the
page that deals with the seat. All of the measurements are very close to what I measured.


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## Chuck Eds (Jul 20, 2009)

*Pl Jii*

Mark, 

here's the bottom of my 12" JII, with the Trendmaster core. Funny that the part from a playset is better than the one from a model kit. I guess it was just lucky that they were both the same size!

Although I've never seen one, I would assume the core from JAI is pretty much the same...

Chuck


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Great looking stuff so far on the progress!

Your interior is killer!


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Tim Nolan said:


> ...I am going to make my own seats from sheet plastic and rod. Can you tell me what the dimensions of the resin seats are for reference?...





mach7 said:


> ...Tim,
> 
> The seats are:
> 
> ...


Tim,
Your request reminded me of Starseeker's drawing:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Hey Chuck, that looks nice. The extended fins look great!


I'm making progress. Soon I'll have to start gluing things together!

Here are some photos of where I am now. The interior is almost done. With the Astrogator, I enlarged the saucer with a plastic washer and some thick CA. Then I added the control panel using some sprune.

The Elevator cage is a test. I'm not sure if I'll use it. I have brass wire to scratch build one. This one is half the upper deck and half the lower deck. I dremeled out the top and part of the front to fit them together.

My scratch built elevator is on the floor in front. 

I've just started on the landing gear. So far I just added the brass extensions. They need a LOT of clean up.

Most of the models I've seen built have a 2 tone paint on the partition/walls on each side of the main window. I've watched a few 2nd and 3rd season episodes on hulu and it looks like a single color to me. Anyone have any sugestions?

Thanks
Mark


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## Chuck Eds (Jul 20, 2009)

*Pl Jii*

Thanks Mark, the fins make all the difference! Making great progress, good practice for the Moebius JII!!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Mach7 your doing a great job on your J2. Here's a tip for your struts that will require no clean up. Cut the plastic strut completely off, just above the multi disc base on top of the foot pad. Drill into that stack of discs and stick in a long aluminum or brass tube. I used two sections that slipped together, like a shockabsorber, on mine. By using a two piece design you don't have to worry about getting the right length. Put your gear on, slide the inner section up to the roof of the gear well and mark with the edge of your xacto knife. Take it apart and super glue the new strut together and reassemble.

There's a few pictures in my thread that show the struts a bit. The pics are not the best, but you can see what I mean.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=259004


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Robiwon,

Thanks for the tip! It would have saved me an afternoon, I have the brass rod at the correct length.

I was following your J2 thread, and almost cried when I saw the damage done to your work.

I toned down the yellow on the vertical buttresses with a flat white wash. I like the results. Thanks Bryan for the suggestion!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Well she's done.

I'm happy with the results.

I'm still considering putting a LED or GOW light inside for lighting.

I glued and filled the two top hull sections. The top hull fits nice on the lower hull without adding magnets.

I love the look of the lighted fusion core! It really adds to the look of the model. I used a silver rattle can for the final paint and toned it down with dulcoat. I think it is a good match for the filming model that was on display at the Science fiction museum in Seattle.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Very nice! Good display too! (light the candles!)


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Thanks for the pictures. It's always great to see a Jupiter 2 build!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Looks great!:thumbsup: Now, when you going to do a Moebius?


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks guys! I'm kind of happy with how this turned out.

I'm not sure I'm going to do a Moebius J2, It's A bit pricy for me and this one took me 10 years!. I'm saving my quattloos for the Polar lights big Enterprise!

Next I think I'll start on my John Long Communicator kit or maybe the new UFO mystery ship.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

where have you guys got the decals for your J2? im building a polar lights J2 as well and think it really needs them. Thanks


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I got mine from Tango Papa decals a long time ago. They are still listed on his web sit for $12. I only used a few decals as most are for the lower deck. I think someone else makes a set, maybe someone will chime in.

http://www.tangopapadecals.com/prod03.htm


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

James Tiberius said:


> where have you guys got the decals for your J2? im building a polar lights J2 as well and think it really needs them. Thanks


I sell a cool set... Website info below!

--Henry


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

ebay has several options the one that comes to mind is from a name of,,

outer space out fitters - there more of a backlight panel his ebay name is "grafixman


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

The TSDS decals are awesome! I used a set from him on my comissioned J2 I did last year. They are very complete and respond very well to solvaset to snuggle down perfectly.


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