# New member saying "hello" and raising oldest problem known to man..



## wmliedtke (Apr 17, 2010)

Hello and thanks for being here for old farts like me who "hate" not winning over tools and other seemingly logical and obvious implements made by man!
Before you think this is a same old-same old...please read me out! I'll try to be brief, but no promises in the interest of really getting to not obvious issue. Have an 8 year old Sears blower. Poulan I guess and Walbro carb. Have read every thread I can find. Only answer I have seen may point to crankcase seal issue. I will try and check compression today. I have a traditional 4 cycle compression tester. Here is what lead up to issue and what I have done to no avail. I have spent more than I should have and have ordered an echo BP-251, but I have horrible case of "dick-head momentum" which prevents me from throwing in garbage and moving on.
After several years, blower would need to be left on *partial choke* to run at full speed. Put up with it until choke setting got very touchy to allow blower to run at all on fast speed. Open choke, unit would die. More choke, engine would die. Unit always started normally. Full choke, 5 pulls, move choke to medium. Unit started being *sensitive* to blower movement...choke setting, etc. to stay running. I always run until stalls, add stabalizer, and put away every year "clean".I take good care of my tools. Took carb off and apart and soaked in clear "gun cleaner" which is what I use to clean my spray paint guns after every use. Bought new o-rings for carb, sparkplug, fuel filter, air filter, and made low and high speed needles adjustable with my dremel. Put all back together and unit woulkd no longer stay running more than a few seconds. Seemed to want more and more gas. pumping primer bulb while running helped a tad, but would ultimately die anyway no matter how carefully I gave it strategic bulb pump. Hoses to fuel tank are fine and bulb circulates fuel and rebounds. Blowing into either fuel line creates bubbles easily in fuel tank. No amount of small adjustments to hi-lo needles helps at all. Removed needles and cleaned these ports too with B12 carb cleaner. Bought new Walbro carb from Sears, have all new O-rings, removed muffler and no screen or sign of clogging. When unit starts, it smokes heavily. Fresh gas and perfect 40 to 1 mix. Pulled plug and using a jumper to ground get fast spark lightly pullng starter rope. Spark seems strong and plug is new. New Walbro installed and exact same result. Will run a few seconds and die. Looking in intake and exhaust port holes with carb/muffler removed shows no obvious dirt/soot/carbon build-up. Last time blower ran steadily it seemed to have decent power, just hard to find choke setting it liked-to run. I liked this unit.It was a Sears Anniversary Unit 200 MPH like 400CFM blower. Nice weight, always started, used leaf pick-up several times. What am I missing? 2 cycles are so straightforward! Has spark, fuel delivery, tried new and old carb, new O-rings between spacer block and cylinder as well as between spacer block and carb. No amount of adjustment to old carb helps and NEW carb should be pre-set close enough to produce a start. It does not. Every day I go to the garage I can not help still messing with it. Have poured out gas 3 times and tried new gas right from the pump to home with exactly correct oil added. I give up. I know I have already wasted my money. Anyone want to buy a brand new Walbro, air cleaner, fuel filter, o-ring kit, etc. for a Sears?

Bill


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## dj722000 (Oct 29, 2008)

Personally, I would have checked the issue with the carb when it started to act up. Unfortunately your probably right about the seal, two strokes do not like to run if the seal is out. It will leak air from there instead of fully through carb. However you said you looked into to cylinder, did you see any score marks (Vertical scratches in cylinder) while looking inside there? That will also inhbit you from starting as it is a lack of compression. I believe on two strokes the compression has to be above 80 or so just to start. Should of had it pressure checked before purchasing parts which can normally lead you in the direction of parts and repair.

But I do believe this is right where the "dick-head momentum" plays a role. Been there did that. Just to darn stubborn at times. LOL

By the way, I just replied, dont want to buy the parts. LOL


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## Wendell morton (Apr 16, 2010)

*wendell morton*



wmliedtke said:


> Hello and thanks for being here for old farts like me who "hate" not winning over tools and other seemingly logical and obvious implements made by man!
> Before you think this is a same old-same old...please read me out! I'll try to be brief, but no promises in the interest of really getting to not obvious issue. Have an 8 year old Sears blower. Poulan I guess and Walbro carb. Have read every thread I can find. Only answer I have seen may point to crankcase seal issue. I will try and check compression today. I have a traditional 4 cycle compression tester. Here is what lead up to issue and what I have done to no avail. I have spent more than I should have and have ordered an echo BP-251, but I have horrible case of "dick-head momentum" which prevents me from throwing in garbage and moving on.
> After several years, blower would need to be left on *partial choke* to run at full speed. Put up with it until choke setting got very touchy to allow blower to run at all on fast speed. Open choke, unit would die. More choke, engine would die. Unit always started normally. Full choke, 5 pulls, move choke to medium. Unit started being *sensitive* to blower movement...choke setting, etc. to stay running. I always run until stalls, add stabalizer, and put away every year "clean".I take good care of my tools. Took carb off and apart and soaked in clear "gun cleaner" which is what I use to clean my spray paint guns after every use. Bought new o-rings for carb, sparkplug, fuel filter, air filter, and made low and high speed needles adjustable with my dremel. Put all back together and unit woulkd no longer stay running more than a few seconds. Seemed to want more and more gas. pumping primer bulb while running helped a tad, but would ultimately die anyway no matter how carefully I gave it strategic bulb pump. Hoses to fuel tank are fine and bulb circulates fuel and rebounds. Blowing into either fuel line creates bubbles easily in fuel tank. No amount of small adjustments to hi-lo needles helps at all. Removed needles and cleaned these ports too with B12 carb cleaner. Bought new Walbro carb from Sears, have all new O-rings, removed muffler and no screen or sign of clogging. When unit starts, it smokes heavily. Fresh gas and perfect 40 to 1 mix. Pulled plug and using a jumper to ground get fast spark lightly pullng starter rope. Spark seems strong and plug is new. New Walbro installed and exact same result. Will run a few seconds and die. Looking in intake and exhaust port holes with carb/muffler removed shows no obvious dirt/soot/carbon build-up. Last time blower ran steadily it seemed to have decent power, just hard to find choke setting it liked-to run. I liked this unit.It was a Sears Anniversary Unit 200 MPH like 400CFM blower. Nice weight, always started, used leaf pick-up several times. What am I missing? 2 cycles are so straightforward! Has spark, fuel delivery, tried new and old carb, new O-rings between spacer block and cylinder as well as between spacer block and carb. No amount of adjustment to old carb helps and NEW carb should be pre-set close enough to produce a start. It does not. Every day I go to the garage I can not help still messing with it. Have poured out gas 3 times and tried new gas right from the pump to home with exactly correct oil added. I give up. I know I have already wasted my money. Anyone want to buy a brand new Walbro, air cleaner, fuel filter, o-ring kit, etc. for a Sears?
> 
> Bill


Sounds like you need to check and see if the fuel is bypassing the piston rings on the compression stroke. Quite often I find this to be the case. Will not pull enough fuel to regulate the carb rpm and will run if flooded since this fills the combustion chamber with fuel and helps it gain compression and momentum. If you remove the muffler and spark plug and pull the crank rope and prime the carb up and see fuel or bubbles bypass the piston rings she is about worn out. This is the probable cause at this age. LOL


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