# Kyosho Turbo Scorpion questions



## Dyno (Jan 26, 2009)

Hi, 

I picked up what I believe to be a Kyosho Turbo Scorpion at a flea market today and I was wondering if anyone had any idea as to how collectible they are. From what I gathered so far, it seems to be pretty rare? It seems complete and correct except it is missing the top two lights. The roll bar mounts in the rear are cracked but it still mounts to the car. The rear tires are very dry rotted out. I grabbed it because the suspension looks very similiar to the old Tamiya SRB and I always liked those. Any info that you guys could share would be helpful. 

I tried uploading some pictures and it kept failing. I will try again later.

http://s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af243/Dyno05/?action=view&current=KyoshoScorpion003.jpg


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## turbo scorpion (Aug 15, 2011)

Nice Turbo Scorpion. have you done any restoration work? dosnt look like it would need much.


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## HappyGene (Jan 1, 1970)

Hi Dyno,

That's a collectable chassis, in part due to it's completness, and I hope you proceed carefully and enjoy your find. I'd recommend to:

- put a dab of sewing machine oil on all screws/threads that hold plastic;
- put a dab of Royal Purple on all other screws, not enough to drain to other parts wipe of excess avoiding contact with any plastic;
- wait a couple days and then:
- warm all plastic parts that can be removed after heating gently with a hair dryer;
- clean the plastic only with mild dish detergent/water and dry immediately afterward and blow dry, careful for the happy face stickers;
- use new bits for all screws, brace yourself properly for good torque angles...take it all apart and let stubborn parts soak longer, don't force them;
- set all plastic parts in a closed box with a wet paper towel wadded up in a cup or on a saucer and let that set while you work on the metal - don't get them wet, but allow them to absorb moisture from the air;
- wipe interior surfaces (bearing housings, etc.) with Royal or sewing oil and then with alcohol, acetone only for tough discolored areas that are also scratched;
- gently rub the tires with a hand lotion that has glycerin listed before the mineral oil and let them set a few days before trying to remove them. Then, rub them inside and out after they're off with the lotion and let them set and they'll reconstitute a little bit, enough to use or sell with the caveat that they're obviously not new;
- take care with the speed control as the bakelite/fiber-board plates can split like mica;
- use only plastic or brass bristled brushes for any deep cleaning;
- dress the metal (gently!) - don't use anything coarser than 1200 grit, emery (crocus) cloth and 00-000 wool and the tough green dishwasher sponge. The aluminum and magnesium especially with smear if you're too rough. They'll polish up good with pen/pencil erasers, car wax and Brasso as a last resort. Sometimes even a coarse cotton cloth and firm hand will give a nice patina - no toothpaste. Windex will stain!;
- clean the shocks (they'll be murky black nasty stinky inside!) with Ivory and a baby bottle brush, then alcohol and the wipe some sewing oil on/in them and wipe that off. O'Reilly's and AutoZone have o-rings to fit them in those multiple compartment parts tubs in the accessories isle;
- rub the hex screws and nubs in Naval Jelly and brush them to get the rust off and then rub them with Vaselline 'til you're ready to use them (and you may have to pick at their socket with a sewing needle if they're gunked up to even get them off;
- use Tamiya grease on all rubbing parts (or synthetic marine grease, Mobil 1 syn grease, or Singer sewing grease [0-000] - NOT Vaseline), include the bushings, but replace them with bearings;
- lube and then seal the servo saver post in a balloon, it wears fast and you'll probably have to smoothen the mating surfaces anyway;
- not tighten anything too tightly when re-assembling, using LocTite Blue (not Red) on all screws to metal;
- cut shim washers from spring steel shim stock to tighten up the trailing arm pivot areas if you plan on running it (which would be super great fun!!);

Note: the gears in the diff are weak and not meant for a hot motor without some intricate modification and they're probably too old to boil safely. I had found an older Traxxas or HPI gear diff that fit my AYK Gator...and then lost it. But you can make some subs on the diff that way with a lot of looking and fitting. For certain, fit bearings or brass tubing sleeves to the jackshaft in the tranny, it'll wear fast.

If I recall correctly, the rear hubs have needle bearings that can either be re-sourced from Grainger or replaced with 5x9-or-10 pairs. The fronts are 4x8's and I think the jack shaft is 2-or-3x6, but that's iffy.

You can fit other rear wheels with some reaming or shimming depending on the brand and using pan car belleville washers up against the hub.

If you want to run it consistently, there several mods that are almost necessary. Once you get it built up, we can get into that.

Please let us know your progress.

Or...just send it to me so's I can ooohhh & aaahhhh over it!

 Gene


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## swingerguy340 (Jul 17, 2007)

VERY nice find how much you pay for it?

Nice Dakota! Are you on the Dakota R/T forums? dakotart.com


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