# Ryobi Blower Died



## greyheadedguy (Feb 17, 2006)

I bought a Ryobi 31 CC Leaf blower at the swap meet that kinda of ran. I cleaned it up and it did nothing. I downloaded the manual for it set the carborator on it and it ran fine. I had it running and it was running fine for about a hour or so, then it died. No odd sounds, flames or explosions, just dead. I pulled the spark plug and it was a light shade of tan. I got it home and got out my Auto compression gauge, gave a couple of pulls and had about 65 psi compression. Is it dead? Did I have my mix too lean?

Thanks for this forum.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Sounds like the piston and/or cylinder is scored. Pull the muffler and have a look at the piston. Most likely the carb was set too lean.


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## greyheadedguy (Feb 17, 2006)

Is this machine repairable for less then the price of buying a new one? (I only have $15.00 in it so far.) Can the cyclinder be honed? of course if these have no rings all I would achive is enlarging the problem right? What is the cheapest source for parts? Is there a PTFE 2-cycle oil? If so, is it any good and would it add to the life of a 2-cycle engine? Sorry for so many questions but I'm in a group that uses a lot of these 2-cycle blowers.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Cost of a new piston and cylinder would be about 50 bucks. You can buy new "Bolan" brand trimmers (made by MTD/Ryobi) for about 70 bucks. It just depends on the model as curved shaft trimmers are fairly inexpensive and straight shaft trimmers tend to cost quite a bit more.

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Always use an oil designed for air cooled 2-cycle engines. Any name brand oil will work well.


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## greyheadedguy (Feb 17, 2006)

My machine was a Blower/Vac, rated at 200 MPH... (even faster on nos)  I know that doesn't change anything, or does it? I was just hoping for a cheaper way.

Thanks!


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

It would be better to sell off parts of the old one, not to mention easier, and buy a new one.

PTFE 2 cycle oil ? I guess you know PTFE is teflon..... this brings up slick 50 in mind... the teflon particals would cut off oil flow to the lowest flow places, clog the cross hatch in the bores, and just drain your pocket. Use a good quality synthetic 2 cycle oil for air cooled engines.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Sorry, didn't notice it was a blower. They are a little more expensive, maybe around a 100 bucks, parts would be the same price as it uses the same motor as the wackers. A 180 MPH blower and a 200 MPH blower within the same brand/style are basically the same... the only real difference is the blower tube design.


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## greyheadedguy (Feb 17, 2006)

Thanks for the imput on the PTFE, I was hoping for something to lengthen the life of the blowers. I'm in a prospecting club and we use alot of blowers for many hours at a time. Thats why all the dumb questions.

Just one more question. What would you reccomend as the best 180/200 MPH long lasting low maintenance blower?

Thanks again for all the help


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## motormouth (May 19, 2010)

*Ryobi Blower will only idle*

Hello all,
You are my last "hope". I have a Ryobi 310bvr (31cc) 2 cycle blower that will idle fine. When I give it gas to get it wide open, sometimes it will get there and then just die. Then I can get it started again, but only at the idle. Why wont this thing rev up?? I have never had this problem with my CR250 dirtbikes or my chainsaw? Kind of an odd problem. Started playing with the screws on the carb but thats not really helping. Plug looks fine. Is this what I get for buying a $20 blower at a yard sale, or is this something simple??


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## Loblolly77 (Jan 4, 2010)

Hello, 

OK, I have rebuilt several of these. The case of the engine slowly losing rpms, could be fuel starvation , check the fuel tank cap by gently prying up the center plastic disc. Under that is a little round foam. Replace that foam with a little piece of air filter foam. 

Be sure to clean the little rubber duckbill in the cap also. Replace the fuel tank filter-In these Ryobi's this means removing the plastic engine covers and then slide the white collar away from the fuel tank on the outside. Then push the fuel line in to release the filter and remove through the tank filler opening. Replace all fuel lines and primer bulb. 

See site sponsor for MTD parts-easily available. 

Change the spark plug. Refill with clean fresh gas+oil. 

Adjust both carb needles to 1+1/4 turns out from closed (after removing any limiter caps). 

If this doesn't help you may have an air leak. Check cylinder to case flange for tighness, check intake manifold to case for leaks and the carb to manifold for leaks. Another point to watch is the reed valve. All of these ryobis tend to wreck their reed valves as the clearence between the reed stop and the connecting rod is really too little and after a few years the reed stop jams up the rod. Take off the intake the carb is mounted on and the reed is under that. Adjust the reed stop in a bit and check for clearence with the con rod big end. They run great if you can keep the reed from jamming up.


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