# PineSol question



## win43 (Aug 28, 2006)

Is this good for any paint?? I sprayed some resin bodies and the paint ran really bad. Can I just drop these bodies in a jar of PineSol?? Do you use a new batch of PineSol for every body or just keep re-using the same batch??


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## CJ53 (Oct 30, 2007)

I have been using it to strip model car paint and factory paint off of my cars.. I reuse it. Baby food tubs (gerber) work well to soak em in and save the liquid. It does take a while to get through the factory paint. I'm sure someone can also post more info... 
Chris


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I use it, but I use a new batch for every job, as the paint from the previous car suspends in the Pinesol and when it hits my next job it smears on on it. Sure it comes off, but its a pain to me. (CJ53, can you explain how you are able to reuseit. I go through too much of it.) I also brush the paint off the car while it is still in the Pinesol, because the first couple of times I did it I tried to rub and brush the paint off out of the Pinesol and it became a gooey mess. Its still my favorite way to remove paint.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Same here Mike. I get the yuck smear too. Just did an AW suburban in dark blue...what a mess!

To finish cleaning the slime layer I used wax and grease remover by napa. Snipped an old toothbrush down to stiffen it up a little then scrubbed the 'bourbon right down to the bone white original plastic. Easy as pie.


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

I think letting the car lay in pinesole for at least a day and a half makes matters better, autoworld paint seems to ripple off most of the car, then its the gooey mess left to deal with .


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## fastlap (Nov 11, 2007)

I have been using it for years to take paint off diecast, but have yet to use it on the resin or plastic bodies.


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## CJ53 (Oct 30, 2007)

I take it out of the pinesol.. scrub it with an old toothbrush.. and rinse it in warm water... if I don't remove all the old paint.. I just dunk it back in and let it set overnite. I have done 3 bodies in the same container and it still seems to be working fine. I agree on the gooey mess from the AW or JL body, I have a chevelle that is a yellow mess right now.. Maybe I'll try Bills' method.. 
Chris


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I do let mine soak for about 24 hours before I try to get the paint off.


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## CJ53 (Oct 30, 2007)

The Chevelle is on it's third round in the dunk tank right now.. I scrubbed it this morning, letting it sit another day. Model car paint usually comes off with one dunking, it's the new factory stuff that is tougher. 
Chris


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

CJ53 said:


> The Chevelle is on it's third round in the dunk tank right now.. I scrubbed it this morning, letting it sit another day. Model car paint usually comes off with one dunking, it's the new factory stuff that is tougher.
> Chris


First I use Pine Sol to remove the main gunk. Then I use this stuff called ELO (Easy Lift Off) that was made by Polly but, now Testors makes it. It comes in a small can at the Hobby Store. It is used for removing Paint from plastic and it works so well with a toothbrush that my AW blue Suburban ended up completely white after the tooth brush scrub. I just poor some in the ELO lid and dab a little bit on (enough to put a thin film on) with a good stiff toothbrush. Bills idea of cutting the bristles down is good also...scrub, scrub, scub. 

Bodies like the Sand Van and 57 Suburban are tough and can handle the ELO with no problem. 

ELO goes on by just applying it and then let it sit for a very short time and then scrub, scrub, scrub. It is like magic almost. I have used ELO for years and love it. You will need to read the directions on the can and it will need to be rinsed after a short time of scrubbing and washed with soap and water. reapeat the process after cleaning it up in soapy water. 

I love ELO but, it could possibly make thin spots on a body break. You just need to scrub for short amounts of time and then rinse in soapy water and do it again. Doesn't take long at all. It is easy to get greedy with this stuff as it works pretty fast...just remember to read the directions and wear rubber gloves!

I used ELO to do the final strip on my JL VW Baja Pullback bug bodies. The sunroof in the front cracked on 2 of them but, then just carefully Liquid Cemented them without any problems. So much detail on those Jerry cans and stuff. Needed something to get all that yucky JL mess off.

Also have just run Acetone through my airbrush and sprayed directly on the messed up body, if it was just painted and things went wrong. Paint is fresh and the paint will just run off but, you may need to wipe with a towel to pull the paint off faster.

Use RUBBER DISPOSABLE GLOVES when you are working with ELO!!!! If you don't your hands will dry up and then the pain sets in....I know...doh!

Bob...zilla


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## fastlap (Nov 11, 2007)

two things. one question and one statement.

First, so nobody is having any sort of negative reaction to plastic or resin sitting in the PineSol? I would think the pinesol gwtting into the porous parts of resin can't be good. Once it's "IN" the resin, it won't come out is what I'm thinking.

Second, In regards to stock plastic, I used to use Easy Off oven cleaner to remove the factory paint. Put the body on a piece of newspaper and soak the snot out of that puppy and let it sit. In a couple hours, maybe a couple applications and all the factory paint was gone, leaving the plastic color it came molded in.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Millions of 'lil fish eyes watchin' me*

Gar, Too funny that Bob missed your post...oh well he'll be back. Bob may have special insight on that very subject and I believe Bobzilla fingered it out and may have the answer to your Q.

In my pea brain paint strippers are classified in two groups; Caustics/soaps and Solvents/thinners. Each has it's own set of effects providing both positive and negative effects.

The caustics have a drying or brittlizing effect. The solvents have a softening effect. Sometimes too much LOL. Blobular!

Much is also dependent on the vintage of the plastic or paint in question.
I do know that pinesol kills AW windsheilds rather quickly...snicker. Easy off does a number on chrome.

This "stripper topic" was up last year and there was some great intel proffered up by our membership. Hanged if I can find it or even remember what it was called!....anyone?


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I have not experienced any very ill effects on the plastic. However, some ofmy cars still smell like Pinsol even after painting.


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

My only Pine-Sol strip job was on a black TycoPro McLaren that some little snot had brush painted with what looked like silver testor's model paint right outta the jar. Two days of soaking and scrubbing got it and all of the factory paint and chrome off of it. The body plastic is now an uneven grey and feels a bit soft. Even after soaking in water for a week, it still reeks of Pine-Sol.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

PineSol -- Don't forget your bod for about a week. I did that with a Tomy '80s Corvette and it frikkin' melted.  

And as for getting the last of the paint off (like the shadow images it leaves behind) I use a Q-tip and Testors paint thinner -- lifts it off real easy like.


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## 22tall (Jul 28, 2002)

pine sol made some of my Tyco cars brittle. Not a good idea to leave them in there for two weeks.

ELO is also good for taking paint off chrome.


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## grungerockjeepe (Jan 8, 2007)

twolff said:


> My only Pine-Sol strip job was on a black TycoPro McLaren that some little snot had brush painted with what looked like silver testor's model paint right outta the jar. Two days of soaking and scrubbing got it and all of the factory paint and chrome off of it. The body plastic is now an uneven grey and feels a bit soft. Even after soaking in water for a week, it still reeks of Pine-Sol.


something similar happened when I tried to pinesol strip a tyco trick truck. Kinda softened and got a little wrinkly in places. But then once I took it out it eventually firmed up but the wrinkles stayed. On the other hand, I was using it to strip a couple tyco CJ-7s and a '79 camaro and it didnt hurt those a bit.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Stocking Stuffer*

Here's a little Model Murdering tip.

For known "brittlized" plastic cars, the dreaded tan or extra crispy blue, and any ones that have the life stripped out of them;

I use successive washes of straight testors liquid cement on the underside. It can be brushed or airbrushed. As it is a solvent and NOT a glue, it WILL wick through the plastic and revitalize the body. 

Most caustics, sun or heat will accelerate outgassing and deplete the remaining volitals in the plastic. Some cars were just crappy from the git go. 

Cant guarantee it'll work on every car out there...but this trick has worked on every T-jet or AFX I ever tried it on. For those of you that remember "Humpty", my shattered blue bug restoration is the testimonial.

Note: Go easy on tan with this trick! For some reason unlike other colors tan will get looser than a wet noodle and start wandering around if ya over do it.


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