# Seaview Tail colors



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Hey guys,
I'm planning on painting my Seaview with the two-tone scheme (altho not as drastic as this example) and I'm not all that familiar with the subject, so I need to throw up a question.

Take a look at the picture and tell me which is more correct A? or B?

the demarkation line for the rest of the sub is pretty apparent until you get to the tail. 

Is it more of a straight line (A)? or does it follow the hull (B)?

Can you help a brother out?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I would go with "A". At least based on real ships water line marks and horizontal demarkations generally dont rise and fall with the ships bow or stern but remain horizontal. If you paint it like "B" the white would be visible at the very top of the keep above the rest of the grey... and might look odd.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

thanks,
the engines cover a lot of this area, so I'm showing it without them.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Yes I realize that... which makes B more odd as you would see a bit of white poking up behind the engine pods at the stern.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

It was painted "A''.alexander


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Thanks guys,

A it is.


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## mike1 (May 19, 2008)

Hello All,
whats the story with the rudders does this line run thru those as well or are they painted the same as the upper hull. also the inside of the engine tube where the rudders are mounted, is it a split scheme or upper hull colour.


thanks in advance, i need to know before i assemble the engine assembly

:wave:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The rudders are grey. I painted the insides grey as well. The insides are poorly molded anyway. You might have to adjust the line on the hull a bit where the conical shape of the pods blends with the shape of the hull. Its easier to see than explain. This was a complicated bit of masking. The pods fit poorly in a couple spots and require putty to blend them in smoothly, so painting them first was problematic.


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

A: see attached.
The rudders (all 3) were bottom half bottom color. And, tho it's been years, I seem to remember that the undersides of the diving planes on the sail are also bottom color. The insides of the prop tubes always seemed uniformly dark.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I've decided the colors..

I found these two paints last night at Lowe's

Rustoleum brand
American Accents line
"Stone gray" and "Granite" colors.

the photos are just a bit bluer than real life, and the paint is still a bit wet, hence the glossy-ness.

but I thought I'd share


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

At the end of Deadly Creature Below (DVD), as the Seaview sails away from the creature for the last time, just at the edge of the screen, the propeller tube seems to have a ring of blue around its very end (right at the very edge of the TV screen). I don't know if this is real or not. Has anyone else seen this in any other shot?


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

That looks pretty good, Lou... and easy for most people to locate.

BTW where are you guys buying your glue from? I haven;t seen an orange testor's glue tube for ages, and those "pro" back diamond shape bottle's glue doesn't seem to have the same welding ability as the old orange "sniffy" stuff.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

garee,
most of the time, I'm using super glue. the big bottle of gap filling stuf


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

gareee said:


> That looks pretty good, Lou... and easy for most people to locate.
> 
> BTW where are you guys buying your glue from? I haven;t seen an orange testor's glue tube for ages, and those "pro" back diamond shape bottle's glue doesn't seem to have the same welding ability as the old orange "sniffy" stuff.


Testors still sells their regular tube of plasic cement in the red/white tube. I remember as a kid the tube was orange, but now its red. Same glue.

The Model Master Precision liquid cement is the stuff in the black applicator with the needle tip. Personally I don't like the stuff as it seems very slow drying, although it is very neat.

There is a cheaped down version of the Model Master glue with a plastic spout and red sticker lable on the bottle. I don't recommend this package as the plastic spout plugs up and can't be cleared with a flame like the metal tube.

Avoid the blue tube non toxic cement. It just doesn't work. There is an applicator bottle package as well... thinner glue but still the same poor non toxic formula. Good stuff like Tolulene makes glue work!

Testors also still sells their brush on liquid cement. I used to use that a lot.

Now I prefer Tamiya Extra Thin liquid cement. Its very thin, and has great capilary action. Now and then you find some weird plastic like old Polar Lights ABS stuff thats harder to bond, but generally this is my glue of choice now.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

is any of the red stuff carried at any big box stores, like walmart, kmart or the like?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

gareee said:


> is any of the red stuff carried at any big box stores, like walmart, kmart or the like?


No because those stores don't sell models. K Mart got rid of kits in the mid 90s, and aside from a few snap together Gundam kits some years back, haven't carried models since then. Wal Mart as a chain stopped selling kits last year. They sold the blue tube non toxic stuff.

I did notice Target now sells a couple Revell kits. Not much, two or three of the snap together Star Wars kits, and a couple snap cars. They also had a Meisto plastic kit of speed racer. No glue or paint though... just a few snap kits.

About the only national chain store in the US I can think of with kits is Michaels (not counting hobby chains like Hobby Lobby or Hobbytown). They carry some basic paint and glue.


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

djnick66 said:


> No because those stores don't sell models. Wal- Mart as a chain stopped selling kits last year.


Not necessarily. I've been to my local Wal-Mart & have seen a stock of kits empty & refill several times. They're right next to the Speed Racer stuff in my store. It's a Hot Wheels brand of cars that include models like a '57 Chevy & Mustangs.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Prince of Styrene II said:


> Not necessarily. I've been to my local Wal-Mart & have seen a stock of kits empty & refill several times. They're right next to the Speed Racer stuff in my store. It's a Hot Wheels brand of cars that include models like a '57 Chevy & Mustangs.


Lately? National chain policy was to remove models and paints late last year. The WM's here had it all on clearance. The one Super Wal Mart still has some Hawk Wierd Ohs for like $1.99 but its the goofy basketball player.


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

djnick66 said:


> Lately? National chain policy was to remove models and paints late last year. The WM's here had it all on clearance. The one Super Wal Mart still has some Hawk Wierd Ohs for like $1.99 but its the goofy basketball player.


Yep, I was there yesterday & saw the kits. Suprised the frak out of me, too. They also had the Weird-Ohs, too, but they went away a couple months ago.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I do have a Michaels that on one of our bi weekly shopping trip runs, so I'll score some then! That's a good helpful tip!

(I did already pick up jb weld for the main seaview hull glueing.)


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*all done and ship shape!*

It's time to pull out the "finished model rug" to show off the finished Seaview which was successfully delivered without damage to the bitrhday boy this weekend.

I had to rush this one to get it done in time, so I didn't have time for all of the bells and whistles (beyond an early version of VooDoo's lighting board). Hopefully on the next one, I'll be more able to take advantage of the great stuff that's coming out.

Enjoy


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I LOVE the way the colors came out.. which colors did you and up using again?

I also really like that you positioned a figure near the windows for scale.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

^^^it's on page one of this post. 
pictures and everything


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Raelly well done.alexander


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Wrote down the colors, Lou. I wonder if dullcoat on top might be better? It always seems to look "flat" to me, though that's probably because it was always underwater.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

The surface color should be flat, like a real sub, however a gloss coat gives the appearance of being "wet". This is why I'm going to use a semi-matt finish for mine once I get to build it (which will be after I get my VooDooFX lighting setup in the mail).


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I checked my local Lowe's and seems they are reducing their inventory of rustoleum paints, in favor of what looks like a "house brand" paint.. and of course they didn't have either matching colors.. nor did walmart.

They did has some gray/lighter blue, which makes me toy with the idea of a cross between the blue "underwater" look, and the actual model colors.

I still keep thinking of a metallic color scheme, instead of just colors... maybe the gray-blue with a dust coat of the darkish silver?

I'd like it to look some what like metal on the shelf.

Decisions, Decisions...


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## solex227 (Apr 23, 2008)

gareee if you think testor liquid is not strong you could use this 

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHU34&P=W 

but you have to be careful to close the top and have a window open. also this stuff is no joke it welds the parts together. Still its slow but a one time gluing and can look very neat as mentioned. I have used it many of times with positive results. CA is the next route I myself use testors liquid so i can move the parts around if i dont like where it is... and its easy fix any miss happs! Less is better !


Lou to me you got the color right on I will be using the paint you mentioned and doing a darker color to high light areas great job!:thumbsup:


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Loe's might have those colors available online.. I might check that option. I think I'll stick with jb weld for the major parts, and cs or cs gel for other parts, since it's readily available.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I glued the hull front and back parts together with Revell Germany tube glue, although Testors would work fine. Its not the best glue for every model but its great for big joints like this. I did the mid joint with CA glue and accellerator starting with the top and working down each side.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Contrary to the instructions, that sounds like the best workflow. It kind of makes sense to hide those side joints first, and then deal with the centerline seam.


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

solex227 said:


> gareee if you think testor liquid is not strong you could use this
> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHU34&P=W


Tenax is good, but it does tent to evaporate quickly. Sometimes it evaporates off the brush even before I get it from bottle to model! Ambroid ProWeld has a bit more working time & it nearly the same stuff.

(imho  )


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Ambroid and Pro Weld are both very good. They are considered "plastic welders" as they really melt the plastic parts together for a very strong bond. Both glues have been hard to get lately too. A lot of places no longer carry one or both glues. On Hyperscale it had been said that a chemical used in them was being restricted or was hard to get now, or something like that. IPS Weld On is another super welder. It pre-dates Tenax and Pro Weld. THey have different formulas, but I think Weld On #3 is what is/was used on models. 

I had no problem with my Seaview (or other large models) using "normal" glues like Zap A Gap, Testors tube glue and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.

After a while the strength of a joint becomes moot... something that is going to break the hull joint whether its Testors or Tenax is still going to destroy the model...


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## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

djnick66 said:


> T
> 
> There is a cheaped down version of the Model Master glue with a plastic spout and red sticker lable on the bottle. I don't recommend this package as the plastic spout plugs up and can't be cleared...


 I love using this glue and use it all the time. It works pretty fast and forms a good bond. I just keep a shirt pin (straight pin with a ball on the end) in the hole to keep it clear. I've had the same bottle for a good while, used it on six models so far, and it looks like I still have a good amount left. It stuck the luminator Mummy together with no problem.


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

gareee said:


> BTW where are you guys buying your glue from? I haven;t seen an orange testor's glue tube for ages, and those "pro" back diamond shape bottle's glue doesn't seem to have the same welding ability as the old orange "sniffy" stuff.


gareee and All

For what it's worth, I HIGHLY recommend _IPS Weld-On for ABS_ sold by TAP Plastics (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=134&). This stuff is "clear, water thin and fast curing." It's almost as fast as Super Glue. But it does give a few seconds of working time before it sets. After it sets and cures ... it's NOT coming apart!!!!! This stuff also works on resin parts ...

I use it with either the needle tube bottle or a #0 brush for those small areas where the needle tube would just make a mess.

The only drawback is that it's a bit pricey ... $11.95 for a pint can + the cost a applicator bottle and needle tube cap. But it's better than either Testors or Tamiya liquid ($3.99 a bottle?) :drunk:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Weld On is excellent. It is/was sold in cans much smaller than a pint too. I have not seen any of the IPS glues in years though. The Ace Hardware store next to my shop used to sell it. I see their PVC pipe glue occasionally at pipe shops, but not the Weld On. I think at one time it had more of a hobby application but over the years it has become almost exclusively an industrial adhesive with the advent of Pro Weld, Tenax, etc.
I THINK the stuff I used to use was Weld On #3 but again I have not seen it in 20 years.


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