# 2 lane wiring help



## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Had to put my raceway build on hold for a bit, but I’ve finished up household projects and can put my focus back on this build. Up next...Wiring!

I have two AFX Tri Power Packs And two Parma Economy Controllers. Would someone please supply me with a schematic or a link to a schematic. I was also considering adding an additional power tap, so I would also appreciate a schematic for that as well.

Thanks again everyone for your assistance in my build. Your help has been very useful.

Mike


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Here is the wiring for one lane. Note that the plus and minus rails are switched for 1/32nd and 1/24th tracks.










For jumpers just connect to the wires that go to the track rails. Pay careful attention to the polarity when you add jumpers, minus should always be on the right looking in the direction of travel.


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks Rich. You’ve taught me something...”minus should always be on the right looking in the direction of travel.” 

Now, before I cut the connector off this tri-pack, can you tell me the purpose of this (see picture)? I’m assuming it’s a fuse or resetting breaker. The other tri-pack I purchased doesn’t have it. I plan on adding fuses to both lanes, so if this is a fuse/breaker, I’m assuming I can eliminate it.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

That black lump is a ferrite choke, those are also seen on wires that connect computer equipment, USB cables have them for example. The choke is there to prevent RFI generated by sparking motors and pickup shoes from feeding back into your house wiring. If you eliminate the choke you probably would not have any problems with RFI in any case. When Radio Shack still had stores all over the place they sold chokes that clamped around ordinary zip cord.


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks again Rich. That’s two things you have taught me. Time to do some research on ferrite chokes for a deeper understanding.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Here you go: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

??


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

OK guys, I'm completely frustrated now and really could use some support. Having big time issues soldering my wires to the bottom of my afx track. Ive gone through 4 track pieces. Can't seem to get solder to connect with the track rails without melting the track. I don't remember this issue with my build years ago. Not sure if it's my solder skills, tools I'm using, or both. It's most likely my lack of skill, but I am curious what iron, solder, etc. you recommend. I'm using, check that, I'm attempting to use a Weller 40w iron (needle tip) with Bernzomatic Silver Bearing Rosin Core Solder to attach 14awg to 3" straights. 
Thanks, Mike


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I use a soldering iron with "chisel" tip, Weller #7780.
clearing a large are of plastic from the rail under the track, enough to lay the wire right against it ... parallel.
using a damp cloth or paper towel under the track section (to act as a heat sink and protect the plastic a little), I rough up the rail a bit.
I like liquid acid flux which requires complete cleaning after finishing the solder joints.
tin the rail and the wire.
place a little bit of solder on the chisel part of the iron and, while holding the wire against rail place the hot iron tip to the rail and wire allowing the tinned wire to merge. 
the little bit of solder on the iron tip will help this happen quicker.

if you try to make "T" type solder connections you will leave a very weak connection that can come apart easy and I think it takes a lot more heat to accomplish.

oh yeah. my soldering iron was purchased to solder spring steel chassis in /24 scale slots and was originally designed for making stain glass windows.
it gets real hot.
again, I prefer a chisel tip.


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

My Tomy track rails didn't like taking solder either. I agree with alpink that pre-cleaning the rail and using a big iron with the track section on a wet cloth are important to getting it done. The big iron gets the work hot fast and the heat doesn't have time to conduct down the rails and melt the plastic.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

*Solderless Taps*

You do not necessarily have to solder the taps to the rails: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzLR42NthGeCSUlwbTF0WEtiamM/view?usp=sharing


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## tabcomary (Jun 2, 2010)

*solderless options*

If you have access to a spot welder that is a nice option. That is how the factory terminal sections are made. Run a stainless steel strip to each rail, bring them up over the edge of the track and put a screw through each one to create a screw terminal on the track edge.

If you are using the "new" Aurora/Tomy track you can use a dual power pack terminal to bring all your connections out to screw terminals. 

You can also use a pair of single source terminals by clipping the interconnection underneath and alternating the connecting side. 

Aurora made a terminal for use with the slide-lock track that inserted between any two track sections. I am not sure there is enough clearance in the "new" track to produce a similar device, but it would be handy!


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks for your suggestions, but I keep melting track. No idea what I’m doing wrong, but this idea woke me up this morning. Why not try wired model railroad connectors at the joint. Thoughts?


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> OK guys, I'm completely frustrated now and really could use some support. Having big time issues soldering my wires to the bottom of my afx track. Ive gone through 4 track pieces. Can't seem to get solder to connect with the track rails without melting the track. I don't remember this issue with my build years ago. Not sure if it's my solder skills, tools I'm using, or both. It's most likely my lack of skill, but I am curious what iron, solder, etc. you recommend. I'm using, check that, I'm attempting to use a Weller 40w iron (needle tip) with Bernzomatic Silver Bearing Rosin Core Solder to attach 14awg to 3" straights.
> Thanks, Mike





twolff said:


> My Tomy track rails didn't like taking solder either. I agree with alpink that pre-cleaning the rail and using a big iron with the track section on a wet cloth are important to getting it done. The big iron gets the work hot fast and the heat doesn't have time to conduct down the rails and melt the plastic.


Can you change the tip from the needle style to a broader blade or angled blade type tip? 

What is your technique? Are you preheating the rail before the solder application? Adding solder to the tip before or only when it is already touching the rail?

Is the melting localized or wide spread?

:lurk5:


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

I’m sure it’s my technique. I haven’t soldered since the turn of the century. I’m using a 40w iron and have used multiple tips. I haven’t tried and angled chisel. My melt points are at the rail and usually occur when I’m attempting to tin my rail.


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## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> Having big time issues soldering my wires to the bottom of my afx track. Ive gone through 4 track pieces. Can't seem to get solder to connect with the track rails without melting the track.


i'm no slot car enthusiast, but i do a bit of electronics. if the solder is not sticking to the contact point, it could be covered in tarnish or a lacquer to prevent tarnish. Try sanding the metal clean before you start, to solder to exposed raw metal.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

The solderless method is an alternative if you are having difficulty soldering to the track rails. It is more difficult to solder to steel and having easily melted plastic involved does not help. People have posted their soldering methods in the past. It would not hurt to clean the rails where you are going to solder, a Dremel with a wire brush is good for that. Resin flux or resin core electrical solder does not work well with steel rails. Acid flux works better with steel. Tin the end of the wire before you try to solder it to the rail. Place the track section upside down on a damp towel and apply acid flux to the rail. You don't want the wire to move when you are soldering, you could tape it in place. An iron with a pencil tip might not be the best choice for this type of job, a chisel tip might work better. The tip of your iron must be clean and shiny. Add a small amount of solder to the iron and touch it to the wire and rail, the solder should flow nicely without melting the plastic. When you are done soldering wash the the track with water that has a little baking soda in it, then rinse it or you are likely to get rust around the joint. You might practice on a piece of track that you are not fond of.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

[email protected] said:


> I’m sure it’s my technique. I haven’t soldered since the turn of the century. I’m using a 40w iron and have used multiple tips. I haven’t tried and angled chisel. My melt points are at the rail and usually occur when I’m attempting to tin my rail.


As Rich points out tinning both the rail and the wire and the tip makes the process work better. If you are melting the surrounding area - try this.

Tin the rail by touching the solder wire to the rail first and then the soldering iron on top of the solder wire. As soon as it melts lift the iron. This will also tin the iron for you.

Now take your tinned wire end and lay it on top of the tinned rail and put the iron on top of the tinned wire end. Once they melt together. Lift the iron.

Be sure to leave the wire in place or tape it in place as Rich suggest until it cools. You may have been also lifting the wire off the rail before it cooled.

:cheers2:


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks MFR. Helps mucho.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

alpink said:


> I use a soldering iron with "chisel" tip, Weller #7780.
> clearing a large are of plastic from the rail under the track, enough to lay the wire right against it ... parallel.
> using a damp cloth or paper towel under the track section (to act as a heat sink and protect the plastic a little), I rough up the rail a bit.
> I like liquid acid flux which requires complete cleaning after finishing the solder joints.
> ...


________________________________________________

sometimes I just don't know why I bother!

I should mention that I don't heat the rail and then apply solder in the fashion that soldering is taught.
rather, I place flux on the rail and a small amount of solder on the iron which then transfers to the rail with minimal heat applied.
I think that you are holding the iron against the rail for longer than necessary.
I do all my soldering as described and haven't had a joint or 1/24 spring chassis fail ever.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

IIRC yours and 3 other posts nor the rail track image - were not there when I posted yesterday....(?)

I'll ask VS Admin to review this thread for glitches. (I know we were having issues over the weekend.) :cheers2:


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

I think you will have better luck with a bigger iron or a gun with more wattage. The acid flux might help too, but the cleaning up after is essential. I'd scrub the solder joint using a toothbrush with baking soda and water and even leave the track section soak in the baking soda solution. You should not use the iron tip for electrical soldering afterward.


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

After only a year, I have finally got my track up and running. I remember reading somewhere that most track builders prefer to solder to 15" straight sections. I'm understanding why. My power connects to two 3" straights and I must have burned 10 track sections before success. I would get so frustrated that I had to step away for my build for weeks at a time. Anyway, thanks again for all of your help. I'm stoked to finally have my track up and running.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Congrates! on finishing the first layout. 

What are the plans of the next one? ?


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## [email protected] (Jan 18, 2019)

Thanks MSR. Not done with this one. Currently mounting and smoothing out some joints. Do you having any advice on methods to eliminate uneven surface at the joints? I have a few spots with minor bumps at the joint.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Plumbers levels - nickels, pennies and dimes


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