# Aztec mold creation pictorial



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

some pics of my mold creating process.








as you can see, I have selected someone else's copy to recreate. I have glued the front bumper and the window in, so they will be permanent.








the cavity completely filled with clay and some under the front wings.








the body on the platform with some legos in place to create the box.








the female half of the mold with cured silicone rubber in place, the main sprue/riser and some toothpick risers.








the rear bumper half of mold with toothpick risers.








two halves of smaller mold with master for the rear bumper still in one half of the rubber.








the mold freshly opened with the first casting in raw form still encased in female half.








the first casting of a copied Aztec rail body with the major flash removed sitting atop the two halves of the mold.
upon further inspection of the 3rd casting, i have noticed there is a twist to the body and now I find the master I choose has the same twist. the silicone rubber will completely replicate any and all flaws as well as fine details, like fingerprints.

enjoy.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

for more pics...
http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/mm46/alpink/aztec mold progression/


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Cool pics. Too bad about that twist. I guess you have to do a thorough inspection of the candidates.

If you ready bud I have a nice 70 GSX for a 4 gear i'd like to do. Yes I can donate a body. No posts but I'd rather mount my own posts anyways to keep it as light as possible during the resin casting. Let me know what you think.

P.S. WE LOVE PICS!!! :wave:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Total bummer on the twisted master!  That was an expensive misfortune, I'm sure... I know silicone ain't cheap... Thanks for the pictorial though, because with this one, the process made some sense to me!! I learned a few thing for future use! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

This thread title scared me. I thought you were remaking the Pontiac Aztec. :freak:
_Some would argue that Toyota already has, with the Prius._


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Cool work Al, thanks for showing!!!...Try putting the resin body under some warm/hot water, twist it back and let it cool, might straighten it up...RM


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## 1scalevolvo (Feb 5, 2004)

:thumbsup: Thanks for showing ! we can all learn from it !!

Neal:dude:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I had good tutors when i started. although my first was with a dental powder that takes impressions for the mold and epoxy because i didn't have resin.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Thank God for Legos! Great pix Al. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: rr


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Al is a closet Lego collector/builder......he made the Great Pyramids once......with some leftovers! Guess he uses them as slotcar molds....


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

LOL @ sgrig


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## 22tall (Jul 28, 2002)

Nice casting work Al.

Twist your mold to straighten your casting. May be as easy as putting a coin under one corner. Another way would be to put your mold on a piece of plexiglass or something else that is rigid yet flexible. Determine the twist needed and attatch the plexi to something rigid to maintain the twist.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

22tall, i am about to attempt the mold twist today. HillTop, I have tried the hot water method and because i incorporated more mass in the middle to attach the screw from the chassis (eliminating the need for the dragster extension) it won't straighten that way. i should have just put a post in from the bottom of the windshield since it is a permanent part of the cast.
basically, shame on me for not checking my donor for the master more carefully. I know better. I'll be tackling this again soon with a new master. in the meantime, i am still popping some out of this mold for giggles.

thank you all!


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

Hey Al. They are looking good. Maybe you could call this batch: "Twysted Systers" or something like that, lol. If these hit the auction block, I'll be there.
>Tom<


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## 1scalevolvo (Feb 5, 2004)

I always mount & run the prototypes on a chassis around the track a few times to make sure there are no "Twists" or claearance problems. THen I cast the rubber mold.


Neal:dude:


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## clemedc (Feb 2, 2011)

I just noticed this thread thanks for the post Al it helps those of us who have never cast alot.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

my pleasure. I'm not as eloquent as some or detailed in my explanations. so, pictures hopefully will express my attempts at creative replication. don't be afraid to try this. get a starter kit from some place like Micro Mark with all the necessary stuff and follow the directions. ask questions here, read past threads with lots of good advice. PM me if necessary for tips. the perfection of the master for the mold will be duplicated exactly. think about trying it yourself. it is fun.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Hi Al. Would you happen to have a link to the Micro Mark Kit? I would try it if I didn't have to invest a bundle.

Why Not?!?!?! :freak:


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Joe... do you have a hobby lobby nearby? Theyy have Aluminite kits and with the 40% of coupon...


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

plymouth71 said:


> Joe... do you have a hobby lobby nearby? Theyy have Aluminite kits and with the 40% of coupon...


No Dan. I live in the city. Can someone tell us where the nearest Hobby Lobby to 08879?

I'm not to swift with a computer :freak:


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

http://www.hobbylobby.com/stores/store_locations_search_results.cfm


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

3750 Easton Nazareth Highway
Easton, PA 18045
(610) 258-8678
View Local Sales 
Store Hours


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*Thanks !*



Super Coupe said:


> http://www.hobbylobby.com/stores/store_locations_search_results.cfm


 Sorry to add to the HiJack of this thread, but Thanks SuperCoupe for that link. I checked out my nearest locations too, as I've never been to(or seen) a Hobby Lobby. But now I know my nearest one(47 miles away) is in Lebanon PA. 
:thumbsup:


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Check their page every week for their coupons they regularily have 40% off one item. Whenever I'm in the states I look for a store or two to hit up with a few friends and a fistful of coupons.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Hi Al. Would you happen to have a link to the Micro Mark Kit? I would try it if I didn't have to invest a bundle.
> 
> http://www.micromark.com/Complete-Resin-Casting-Starter-Set,8174.html


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

alpink said:


> Joe65SkylarkGS said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Al. Would you happen to have a link to the Micro Mark Kit? I would try it if I didn't have to invest a bundle.
> ...


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Bump cause i'm thinking of trying this.


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## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

If your going to Hobby Lobby this week, find their web site and print off the 40% coupon thats good through Sat.


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

If someone is prepared to ship one of these to me and can do the Hobby Lobby 40% deal can they PM me please. There is a export version.

http://www.micromark.com/Complete-Resin-Casting-Kit-Export-Version,9090.html


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I just bought the Alumilite kit today from Hobby Lobby 40% off made it $44 total.

Al I have a couple questions, I am going to attempt to mold a small piece like your rear bumper, (engine & Pipes off a T-jet Indy Gran Prix Racer) My question is how do you hold the original part while creating the mold, I understand the concept of parting lines etc & being able to extract the part after molding. also what are the toothpicks / risers in the mold for - alignment? and how did you put the sprue into the bumper mold, a pic would be great, and the final question, what do you hold your mold halves together with?

Thanks

Boosted


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I sort of imbed one part of the original (master) into the Kleen Klay which goes in the bottom of the mold box to pour the first half of the silicone rubber. then I clean out the Klay while keeping the original (master) still. the toothpicks make additional mini riser for excess resin to flow out of and hopefully allow the entire casting to get made without any trapped air. maybe Hilltop and Pig can answer with their ideas too.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Boosted,

I just use strips of masking tape to hold my mold halves together. Put several strips of tape hanging off of my molding table ahead of time. This also helps keep the outside mold clean as the excess resin that leaks out just gets pulled off with the tape removal.

Bob...to busy to even tie my shoe right now...zilla


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

Nobody?? Oh well plan 'B'.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

kiwidave said:


> Nobody?? Oh well plan 'B'.


What's up bud?? Let me know what you want to do and we will get it done !!!!

I'd never let you hang bro. 

I just got my first kit. :dude:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

kiwidave said:


> If someone is prepared to ship one of these to me and can do the Hobby Lobby 40% deal can they PM me please. There is a export version.
> 
> http://www.micromark.com/Complete-Resin-Casting-Kit-Export-Version,9090.html


I don't think Hobby Lobby carries Micro Mark stuff, at least our doesn't. They sell the Alumilite brand...RM


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Hilltop Raceway said:


> I don't think Hobby Lobby carries Micro Mark stuff, at least our doesn't. They sell the Alumilite brand...RM


You are right Randy. So Dave decide what you want and we will get you some goodies.

I believe the difference in the kits may be quantities and actual contents. 

Al?? Shed some light?

I posted a pic of the MM kit, anyone have a pic of the Alumalite kit?


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

My bad, here is the Micro Mark kit











4 bucks at the dollar store


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Not sure exactly what your asking boosted, but this might work for ya. I made a small box out of some scrap MDF, I made some slide in spacers for smaller castings to fill in the space (an adjustable box you could say, to help save on silicone). I mount my master to the plexiglass, then clamp the box onto the base, pour the A mold. After it hardens, take it out turn upside down, place it back in the box, then pour the B mold. When making a casting, I pour the resin into the A mold, then set the B mold on top, usually stays in place. In fact I place a weight, such as a socket on top, to force out the excess resin. If you need support, you can slide the A mold back into your box, then pour the resin mix, then put on the B mold... 








The posts have been cut off in this pic, normally they stick above box to let the air out. 








The toothpicks you see on some molds are vents to let air out. I usually let the body post do the venting. For small parts put some clay in the bottom and stick your parts to the clay with the flat side down on the clay, if it has one, this way you can make a one piece mold, such as a grill or some bumpers. After the mold hardens, just turn it over and pour in your resin into the cavity, then pull your part out, if it's a simple part. Some small parts will float in the silicone. If I have a part that has a flat base, I just slowly imbed it into silicone mix, face first, and let the base stay flush or exposed in the mix, let it harden up, remove your part, and your ready for resin. For complicated parts, you'll have to do a 2 piece mold. After you do a few, you'll understand more of what's needed.










Here's a driver I cast. Glue a flat piece of plastic at the base or neck, then imbed him into your silicone mix, and let him float on top of the mix. After it hardens, pull him out and start pouring...Hope this helps...RM


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

As for doing a play by play on molding, I already did one, for those that were paying attention. Way back in April of 2010 in my thread, From the Pig Pen! You can read all about it here; http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=259654&page=3. It starts with post #31. No need to repeat all of that stuff here. I will, however, repeat what I said about Alumilite molding rubber and resins. I don't like them. I had a lot of problems with air entrapment. The silicone was also kinda wonky. The usual number of pops you would get out of a rubber mold always fell short. The molds either ripped or became hard and crumbled. Maybe it was because I bought the stuff from Micro Mark and it was old. In either case I was not happy with it at all.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks guys, that answers the questions I had, and PartsPig thanks for posting the link to your write up, that was help full as well. Now well just see how it goes & try to make some parts

Boosted


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

*confused*



kiwidave said:


> If someone is prepared to ship one of these to me and can do the Hobby Lobby 40% deal can they PM me please. There is a export version.
> 
> http://www.micromark.com/Complete-Resin-Casting-Kit-Export-Version,9090.html


I am really confused. 

this link takes you to a Micro Mark page on the Micro Mark web site?

and you want to use a 40% Hobby Lobby coupon to purchase it?


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Uh, Let us know if that works out. I wonder if Mittens would take that 40% off coupon ??? Hmmmmmm...RM


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

I was pointing out the fact there is an export version of that MM kit. I want to get the 40% discount on the Alumilite kit. No worries guys I have something sorted!


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

Dollars are tight, even in New Zealand. Kiwi was trying to get someone to buy him a kit from Hobby Lobby for 40% off. Makes sense to me, even with his kiwi dollars not being worth as much as a US dollar. JMHOFO!!! It makes the kit a good buy for him, even with the shipping. These kits are heavy! Kiwi if you want to try the Smooth-On kit let me know. I'll help ya out! Here's a link to the Smooth-On kit. It is 52 bucks and change plus usually about 12 bucks shipping to my door. To ship to New Zealand, via USPS Priority Mail, it will cost about as much as the kit! The kit weighs almost 7 pounds. Via UPS, the cost is well over 150 dollars US! Didn't bother to look up Fed EX. Hope this helps. pig


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I saw the smooth on kit and wandered if any of you guys had tried it, I would think the molds would be pretty fragile, just a guess though.

Boosted


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Kiwi I said id be willing to do what you need to get set up. So let me know bud.


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

Thank you Pig. You got it! Dollars are tight. I can get the MM kit here for a better price including shipping so have ordered that kit. The Alumilite kit will have to wait for now. But need the 40% discount when the time comes. Every dollar will count! Thanks for the replies! Sorry for the wee hijack on your thread Al.


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

Yep, your right, your guessing. Learn you must!!! pig


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

kiwi, no worries here. i think you will find the kit you ordered complete enough to get a good idea where you want to go. a couple of identical measuring spoons from a discount (we call em dollar stores) store and you will be set. you can make mold boxes out of a lot of different things and Legos or similar make it easy to customize the box size for each different experiment. also, put a couple small items that have a flat side in the bottom of a shallow container to pour any excess rubber on top of. even if the excess doesn't cover the parts all the way, you can more excess on next time and it will bond to the silicone just fine. there is a lot to learn and I'll bet pig's tutorial covers nearly all of it. I need to have a look at that myself. I'm sure there is a lot more I need to learn too. al


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

For those of you that are considering getting into casting, Micro Mark is not the only place to buy the supplies. You can also call mittens at Park Lane Hobbies (219-322-1123) and get a quote from her. Here is a link to her website - http://www.parklanehobbiesonline.com/. I believe she sells the Alumilite brand, but don't quote me on that. The train guys use this stuff too!! Kiwi, I believe that the Micro Mark stuff is Alumilite! It sure looked and worked the same to me. pig


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yep, there are a lot of brands and many suppliers ready, willing and able to do business with those in need of casting supplies. my hat's off to them and all the brave souls who try this. it is fun and rewarding. getting ready to pour some rubber right now.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

OK I am really hopeful about my first set of molds that I just poured, I poured part a of the 2 piece mold for an engine / pipe package for the T-jet gran prix racer, a single sided mold for the surf boards off the Elcamino & a cup mold for the drivers head from the T-jet indy cars, which I am hoping to split and flex to get the drivers head out of when molded, kinda squeeze the head out the top. Anyway all that is left to do now is wait for the silicone to cure, I plan to let it set tonight and get to it late tomorrow to see what they look like and maybe pour the 2nd mold half on the engine part. 

Just wanted to let you guys know what was going on & say thanks for the help & direction on this, its new territory for me. I am working on a nice little Duce Coupe I will attempt next, especially if these work. Will post some pics up as well. 

Boosted


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## TBI (Apr 25, 2011)

partspig said:


> As for doing a play by play on molding, I already did one, for those that were paying attention. Way back in April of 2010 in my thread, From the Pig Pen! You can read all about it here; http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=259654&page=3. It starts with post #31. No need to repeat all of that stuff here. I will, however, repeat what I said about Alumilite molding rubber and resins. I don't like them. I had a lot of problems with air entrapment. The silicone was also kinda wonky. The usual number of pops you would get out of a rubber mold always fell short. The molds either ripped or became hard and crumbled. Maybe it was because I bought the stuff from Micro Mark and it was old. In either case I was not happy with it at all.


The pics aren't working in your thread


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

They are there and working. Photobucket has been having some issues of late. pig


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

boosted-z71 said:


> ok i am really hopeful about my first set of molds that i just poured, i poured part a of the 2 piece mold for an engine / pipe package for the t-jet gran prix racer, a single sided mold for the surf boards off the elcamino & a cup mold for the drivers head from the t-jet indy cars, which i am hoping to split and flex to get the drivers head out of when molded, kinda squeeze the head out the top. Anyway all that is left to do now is wait for the silicone to cure, i plan to let it set tonight and get to it late tomorrow to see what they look like and maybe pour the 2nd mold half on the engine part.
> 
> Just wanted to let you guys know what was going on & say thanks for the help & direction on this, its new territory for me. I am working on a nice little duce coupe i will attempt next, especially if these work. Will post some pics up as well.
> 
> Boosted


awesome!!!! Keep us posted please.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

*Molds*

Ok Here is my first shot at molding & casting. Here are my molds that I have made, 1 - 2 piece and 3 single sided molds, the parts to be molded are a T-jet Chaparral Engine, AFX Ferrari, T-jet Indy Gran Prix car engine/pipes, and drivers head, and a set of surf boards from a T-jet Elcamino. I plan to get to casting some parts later on in the week. We will just see how that goes.

Anyway give me some feedback on these, good or bad I need to learn.

Boosted


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

I'm no pro but, they look good to me.you should have good results with them.Good luck.
>Tom<


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

Cool stuff Boosted. I'm watching this with interest!


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## slotto (Feb 9, 2010)

Looks good Boosted! I hope everything turns out for ya. I would be interested in some of those surfboards and that indy engine if they turn out. Maybe we could work on a trade?
good luck,
slotto


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks Guys

Slotto, I will let you know when I pour, I am trying to get some syringes to inject the resin in hopes of a better fill & nice part, I will let you know. I am sure we can work out a trade deal, that sounds good to me as well

Boosted


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

*Parts, Parts, Parts!!!!!*

Hey guys I want you to look at these parts, the Indy engine & the Surf Boards, they came out really well but both have some minor issues that I need to work just a little, but overall this being my first attempt I am very happy. Issues are 1) on the surfboards 1 tip has a minor air bubble, I know I can correct that & 2) on the Indy engine I only have 4 of the 8 intake pipes totally filled, I have a plan for several things to try on those as well. These only have a couple minutes of cleanup on them and not even that much on the surfboards so I am really happy with them. 

Check them out & let me know if you have any thoughts

Again Thanks to all those that I picked your brain on for the help.



Boosted


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I thought I would share a bit of info that I learned while trying to correct the minor issues with molding these parts. As mentioned before I had minor air pockets and filing issues on the indy engine. What solved this was a combination of heating the molds (1-1/2 minutes in the microwave) & leave them on a heated plate while casting, coating the molds with a very light dusting of baby powder, along with using a blunted toothpic to force the resin quickly into the intake pipe areas on the indy engine. After doing all this the parts are near perfect and only require minor cleanup after molding. 

Now onto working on the Hot Rod for the CBP.

Boosted


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