# help with plugging a hole



## tapkoote (Jan 6, 2012)

is there a body panel patching 101?
I'm going to do a 1/24 of my hot rod 1:1.
The only model I could find close was a 51 chev. The rear window is three piece and would need filling. And the rear fenders are to square, not enough material underneath to sand down.
I'm looking at my 50 olds and it's the exact copy of the roof line and rear window.
But the front head light opening needs filled in. Got any suggestions on how I go about this? I've got some green putty in a tube.
Just short on experience.


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

l like this stuff.












http://www.micromark.com/superfine-grain-milliput-4-oz,7626.html


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## tapkoote (Jan 6, 2012)

vaBcHRog said:


> l like this stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


thanks
does this sand like plastic, or is it hard like JB weld?


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

is the red one plastic ?
if so cut plastic pieces to fill the holes from an old model or anything..
and glue it in with super glue or jb weld
or that milliput epoxy.
just make shore to clean off any paint where your going to glue the repair panels in . I just did this auto world 59 Cadillac hearse .
I wanted it to look stock so I filled in both rear wheel wells . 
it comes with huge rear wheel wells for big drag slicks .
I used the doors from a broken auto world 59 impala to make my repair panels from . they are installed using super glue , and accelerator..
then I carefully filed them into shape.
I held the repair panel against the outside of the body while I scratched a mark around the wheel well on the inside of the panel .
then I cut the repair panel and filed it to fit the wheel well real nice
and I used gel super glue to weld it in.


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

tapkoote said:


> thanks
> does this sand like plastic, or is it hard like JB weld?




Closer to plastic. I used it to make a hood scoop. 


Some of the modelers on this list make a goo using Testors liquid glue and plastic bits form the car they are modeling or a similar car. they put the glue and plastic in a glass jar and the plastic melts and turns into a goo. They then use it to slowly fill areas of the car body they are working on. It works on Aurora plastic bodies not sure about they body you are working on. Would need one of the experts to chime in.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Jim, nice work on the hearse.
tapkoote, if you can find Testors 3502 liquid glue and try to dissolve a similar plastic like the model, that is the "goop" that Roger refers too.
if your model is regular "high impact" styrene the Testors 3502 should work.
instead of trying to fill a headlight bucket with goop, I recommend finding a donor body and cutting plugs then glue them with the Testors, epoxy, super glue or whatever your favorite is.
I am, by no means, an expert.
in fact, I assemble a lot of miscellaneous parts with super glue and hope they hold
LOL


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## tapkoote (Jan 6, 2012)

alpink said:


> Jim, nice work on the hearse.
> tapkoote, if you can find Testors 3502 liquid glue and try to dissolve a similar plastic like the model, that is the "goop" that Roger refers too.
> if your model is regular "high impact" styrene the Testors 3502 should work.
> instead of trying to fill a headlight bucket with goop, I recommend finding a donor body and cutting plugs then glue them with the Testors, epoxy, super glue or whatever your favorite is.
> ...


Thanks for the help guys, and wouldn't you know it, brought up more questions.
I'm not using the red body, have a donor in the mail. It's Revell also- will it be the same type plastic chemically?
Also I have an old tube of Testor's 3506, I used on the red car. It chemically melted the plastic but the parts peal right off, and the glue pulls off easily, even after two days. Whats up with that?
Back in the 50's whether it was AMT or Revell, the testers glue fused it and there was no going back.
Does super glue fuse these plastics?
How about hot glue?
Thanks for any help. Pat
By the way, I'll cut and patch with floor boards or fender skirts.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Model kit bodys are usually styrene, slot car bodies are usually ABS, which is a type of styrene that is a bit less brittle and likely to crack. I have not tried regular model cement on ABS, but I think it will not work as well as it does with regular styrene. As far as filler goes I used to use the Testors stuff but the last two tubes of it that I bought must have been sitting around too long because it would not harden. Another type of filler that I have used was automotive spot putty, I have not been able to find any for sale in my area for some time.


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

I like to use super glue from dollar tree. 
it comes in little metal tubes 2 to a card.
they have a gel one and a really thin one.
I also use zip kick accelerator to harden it in less that a minute. 
I make a filler part that fits well then I use gel super glue to bond it in place 
when I have it located where I want it. 
then I put some accelerator on it and its hard in less than a minute.
I put a coat of the thin super glue on the inside of the repair after the accelerator has all evaporated . and I use it to fill any gaps on the out side also .
but it is hard sanding , so I don't over fill the out side .
I use super glue to put styrene screw posts in resin bodys and metal hot wheels bodys that I make into slot cars for years now .
goop is way to slow to work with for me .
it is good for restoring aurora bodys , but it hardens really slow
so it wont work for me with what I do with slot cars.
I use a lot of resin bodys , and some metal bodys too.

thanks Al !! the AW 59 caddy has a divorced front axel and a AW tjet style chassis with Vincent rims


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

You can easily tell if your model donor car or any plastic will turn into goop, cut some small pieces and place into a glass jar with the liquid Testors glue (3502) and let it set for 10-15 minutes, if it will goop, it will start to soften and you will see the color of the plastic in the jar.

You do have to work slow and add it in layers and blend, and let dry, but when you get done you have an almost bulletproof patch, strong as can be & you can modify the consistency to what you need, thicker to fill, thinner to blend. Also drying time is important, while sanding if it starts to get gummy on thick areas, sand lightly then let it dry more, heavy areas tend to dry quicker this way. 

I have found that if you build it up, let it dry then try to blend the patch into a larger area with only the glue it works well, I have used it on HO track, to build a true 4 lane intersection, various car bodies,as well as plastic dishes and ornaments for the wife. If I know the plastic is ABS, I add a little fingernail polish remover to the testors it still glues just fine & easily melts the ABS. 

I have a Red #43 Petty that someone hogged out all the fender wells to a ridiculous point, I have worked on this on and off 4+ months adding red goop until I have them back in shape and will only require some very light sanding and polish to save an otherwise perfect rare car. 



















The stuff works, and if you match the color to your model you can have a color filled fix that you can sand and polish out, no painting, no lines, a truly un-noticeable fix. 

On a difficult to hold patch / repair (like a Daytona wing) I soften all the surfaces with the straight glue, apply the patch piece, let it set for about 5 minutes, then start building and blending with goop, let that set and blend as required with straight 3502, repeat as required to get the material back on that you need. 

I know this is a long testimonial but the stuff works, Like the great Bill Hall told me when I started using it, he answered all my questions, "dont be afraid, just go for it". Your skills will improve and you can get where there is only minimal sanding & polish, and great results. 

In the past I used super glue, I like this better for me, but it does take more time, I generally have 5-6 projects going at once.

Boosted


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## tapkoote (Jan 6, 2012)

Boosted-Z71 said:


> You can easily tell if your model donor car or any plastic will turn into goop, cut some small pieces and place into a glass jar with the liquid Testors glue (3502) and let it set for 10-15 minutes, if it will goop, it will start to soften and you will see the color of the plastic in the jar.
> 
> 
> Boosted


Boosted
Thanks for the tutorial, being new, it's needed. Why not start a patching/repairing thread? Could save us new comers some searching.
I'll probably cut plugs and try fitting them 
having trouble locating 3502.
Pat


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Bill Hall had the tutorial thread, he is the king of goop repair, it was on HT but I dont think its anymore. 

As for the 3502, Hobby lobby, anyplace that has model cars will likely have it. 

Good luck 

Boosted


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

you can get the testors 3502 on ebay without leaving your house ..
its ez to make the repair patches . make them a real good fit if your going with the testors goop . because trying to fill large gaps it will shrink and take a long time to harden. im pretty shore your going to paint your car, right ?
being that I don't restore any original aurora bodys , and I paint all of the custom stuff I build I would much rather use super glue . its so fast and its ez and I don't like taking weeks to do something that I can do in a few hours or less ....
bill hall is the king of goop !!


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

Baking soda and super glue would work


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

boosted, nice save on the Petty #43
the King would be proud


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks Al, still have a little sand & buff yet but at least all the plastic is there now

Boosted


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