# TOS Studio Model Color or On Screen Color?



## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

I am about to paint my TOS Enterprise, and I just wanted to know what everyone thinks about paint scheme. I am on the fence about which I want to do. Please vote in the poll.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

I do like how the studio model was painted with the slight greenish tint. I voted for the studio model look.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

PixelMagic said:


> I am about to paint my TOS Enterprise, and I just wanted to know what everyone thinks about paint scheme. I am on the fence about which I want to do. Please vote in the poll.


I have always gone with what looks good to my eye and that has always been a light gray, almost white. No green or blue tints, no matter how much I hear that is what the studio model looked like. I am viewing it live, not on 35mm 1960's color film, so there is no need to put green on it to make it look gray when the film is developed and run through an optical printer a half a dozen times. That is just me, since it is just me who will be looking at it most on my shelf! :thumbsup:


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## JeffG (May 10, 2004)

I prefer to paint it how you'd see it if you were standing there in the studio looking at it the way it looks naturally. You can always tweak it in photos if you wish.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Studio green-grey, slightly lighter due to reduced size.


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## Joel (Jul 27, 1999)

While I can appreciate how some would want to paint it the way it looks on screen, I have to ask - which of the many colors it's appeared as would one pick? Over the years, I've seen white, gray, light blue, gray-blue, gray-green, gray-purple... and every shade in-between. Even the stock shots had different colors in different episodes - unless you watched only on a black and white TV.

I'll go with studio model color.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Plain grey is plain boring, IMO.

I prefer the Studio Model Color, because I like the subtle blue-green shift that occurs. Helps bring the subject to life, and provides it with it's own unique tint. Probably helps that, to me, the On Screen Color never looked "white." 

That said, this is a decision only one person is qualified to make, and that's the guy doing the building.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Carson Dyle said:


> That said, this is a decision only one person is qualified to make, and that's the guy doing the building.


Well, because I am building with the intent to sell, and not to keep, it would seem only logical to get mass opinion. 

I also find it interesting that the results of this poll are massively different than the same poll at Starship modeler. I wonder why the results are so different.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Well, I voted for the "No green, as it appeared on TV," but I'm torn between that and the Remastered TOS Ent, Neutral Gray, no greentint, subtle aztecs. In reality as it appeared on TV the E looked very blown out, almost white and completely lacking detail, so I'm not sure that would be an accurate description to aspire to in a model.

I actually like my Master Replicas color scheme that's closer to how it appears on TV but does have a VERY SLIGHT green-blue tint and NO aztecing. I personally think aztecs have no business being on a TOS E.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I plan on doing a couple Enterprise kits in different colors so in the end it doesn't matter. I painted this one in colors more like the filming miniature. And no the engines are not crooked! It's a photographic effect.








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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

PixelMagic said:


> Well, because I am building with the intent to sell, and not to keep, it would seem only logical to get mass opinion.
> 
> I also find it interesting that the results of this poll are massively different than the same poll at Starship modeler. I wonder why the results are so different.


Voter fraud


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## phicks (Nov 5, 2002)

djnick66 said:


> Voter fraud


People on SSM are on crack.

People here prefer meth.


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## davejames (Jul 18, 2009)

I'm basically going for studio model color, but just a hint lighter. Because in most of the TV footage you DO still see a hint of the blue/green tint from the model.

I don't want to make it TOO light though, because that just makes the model look a little too toy-like for my taste.


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

Proper2 said:


> Well, I voted for the "No green, as it appeared on TV," but I'm torn between that and the Remastered TOS Ent, Neutral Gray, no greentint, subtle aztecs. In reality as it appeared on TV the E looked very blown out, almost white and completely lacking detail, so I'm not sure that would be an accurate description to aspire to in a model.
> 
> I actually like my Master Replicas color scheme that's closer to how it appears on TV but does have a VERY SLIGHT green-blue tint and NO aztecing. I personally think aztecs have no business being on a TOS E.


The Master Replicas color scheme was very close to what I remember when I saw the original model in 1972 at a Golden West College event. The only exception were the nacelle domes were a light transparent orange in color. I saw the model with no lights on and then fully lit up.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

I voted "No green tint,neutral grey on all colors, as it appeared on TV. No aztecs" for the simple reason that's how I saw it, so that's the version I'd build. The studio model might have had a greenish tint, but I never saw that when I watched the show in the 60s, in reruns, or on my DVD set. Now, if you're building a model to replicate the studio model, that's a different story; me, I build the fantasy.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Zombie_61 said:


> I voted "No green tint,neutral grey on all colors, as it appeared on TV. No aztecs" for the simple reason that's how I saw it, so that's the version I'd build. The studio model might have had a greenish tint, but I never saw that when I watched the show in the 60s, in reruns, or on my DVD set. Now, if you're building a model to replicate the studio model, that's a different story; me, I build the fantasy.



Yup. I never saw any green on the Enterprise, either. It was simply light grey, almost white.


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## MGagen (Dec 18, 2001)

Wattanasiri said:


> The Master Replicas color scheme was very close to what I remember when I saw the original model in 1972 at a Golden West College event. The only exception were the nacelle domes were a light transparent orange in color. I saw the model with no lights on and then fully lit up.


So you were at that event, and with the lights off, the domes looked as if they were tinted amber?

I've seen black and white photos of the unlit model that have made me wonder if that was the case, but I've never heard an eyewitness clearly say so. Thank you!

M.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

MGagen said:


> So you were at that event, and with the lights off, the domes looked as if they were tinted amber?
> 
> I've seen black and white photos of the unlit model that have made me wonder if that was the case, but I've never heard an eyewitness clearly say so. Thank you!
> 
> M.


Were they painted that amber color _after_ the series ended for exhibition purposes when the model would not be lit most of the time?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Carson Dyle said:


> Plain grey is plain boring, IMO.
> 
> I prefer the Studio Model Color, because I like the subtle blue-green shift that occurs. Helps bring the subject to life, and provides it with it's own unique tint. Probably helps that, to me, the On Screen Color never looked "white."



Yeah, personally I feel the studio model saucer top has just too much, and not-so-subtle, rainbow colors happening, none of which could be captured and or seen on televisions back then. For a smaller-than-studio scale model, in particular this scheme is too distracting, me thinks. And likewise, the R2 weathering decals are way too much. Our TV back then showed a practically white Enterprise. (Maybe the contrast and brightness button?)


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Proper2 said:


> Were they painted that amber color _after_ the series ended for exhibition purposes when the model would not be lit most of the time?


The domes were painted for the pilot 1 and 2 ships and not lit. Scenes with those versions were used throught the series like in the opening credits.

The third version of the ship had clear or frosted domes that were not red or orange if not lit up. They don't seem to have been painted on the smaller filming miniature either.

When the model arrived at the Smithsonian the domes were missing and the lights didn't work, so new domes were mocked up. The domes today are not original, either.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Joel said:


> While I can appreciate how some would want to paint it the way it looks on screen, I have to ask - which of the many colors it's appeared as would one pick? Over the years, I've seen white, gray, light blue, gray-blue, gray-green, gray-purple... and every shade in-between. Even the stock shots had different colors in different episodes - unless you watched only on a black and white TV.
> 
> I'll go with studio model color.


In most cases, I go with on-screen look. The problem is--as Joel so well described it--there's no real ONE on-screen look. The gray comes out in some shots and since that's the actual color, that is the one standard that can't be denied. Since there're pretty good references for that color, I think that's the best one to go with. 

ANY gray that roughly matches the saturation of gray of the original, however, would be close enough, IMHO. No need to get the exact greenish tint, but if you can, that's all the better.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Proper2 said:


> Yeah, personally I feel the studio model saucer top has just too much, and not-so-subtle, rainbow colors happening


Maybe if you're on acid.



I'm basing my finish on the MR model, and the color shift between blue and green is EXTREMELY subtle. As in, if you're not aware of it, or specifically looking for it, the effect would scarcely register. To my eyes, at first glance, the studio finish appears to be a very light medium-range grey.

I honestly couldn't care less which finish a given modeler chooses for his own Enterprise, but I'm five feet away from my MR Enterprise, in overcast daylight, and there certainly ain't no rainbow effect happening.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Carson Dyle said:


> Maybe if you're on acid.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wasn't talking about the MR. I have a MR E and it doesn't have any perceptible green up top. It looks nothing like the studio model saucer-top below. And I like it that way. The studio model has too much green-blue stuff going on.

http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=257670


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## MGagen (Dec 18, 2001)

djnick66 said:


> The third version of the ship had clear or frosted domes that were not red or orange if not lit up.


I've often heard this repeated by folks who weren't there. I'd just like to know whether it is true. Here we have an eyewitness who saw the only known exhibition of the model soon after the show had wrapped. He remembers them having an orange tint.

That would explain these photos of the model at Linwood Dunn's facility which have always puzzled me. The unlit domes certainly look tinted, rather than clear or frosted. If only they were color photos...





















> They don't seem to have been painted on the smaller filming miniature either.


This is demonstrably false, since we saw the smaller model under normal stage lights in _Requiem for Methuselah_ and it had golden domes.

M.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Note that the lower saucer dome also appears to be tinted in that last photo, even though we know it really wasn't.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Proper2 said:


> I wasn't talking about the MR. I have a MR E and it doesn't have any perceptible green up top.


Well, up until your previous post I thought we'd been discussing the studio miniature base color (as opposed to the weathering atop the base color).

I referenced the MR E because, so far as I've been able to determine, the finish is a pretty close match to the TOS FX miniature. One of the features of that particular finish is a subtle blue-green color shift depending on ambient lighting. -- a color characteristic that has nothing to do with the sort of weathering and/or shading depicted in the shot of you posted.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I never meant to suggest that heavily-applied studio scale weathering of the sort required for a 60's-era TV series would be a good idea for a 1/350 display model. I was just trying to make a case for the Studio Model Color.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

This whole power dome color thing had been discussed extensively years back. 

The domes were painted with clear amber lacquer on the _inside_. They were also darkened somewhat, so as to not overexpose. At first, the domes' exterior was left clear, but it reflected every studio light around it (as the replacement domes in the Smithsonian do now), and were later frosted to eliminate that annoying characteristic.

With the dome lights off, they looked a little more 'reddish' to me.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The small miniature did have red or orange painted domes. They do have a sort of amer or yellowish finish but they are not painted in a dark color. By painting i mean a solid, deep, red or orange color. The big model domes are not a solid color either. There is some sort of frosted finish but the domes are translucent so the lights will show through.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Carson Dyle said:


> Well, up until your previous post I thought we'd been discussing the studio miniature base color (as opposed to the weathering atop the base color).
> 
> I referenced the MR E because, so far as I've been able to determine, the finish is a pretty close match to the TOS FX miniature. One of the features of that particular finish is a subtle blue-green color shift depending on ambient lighting. -- a color characteristic that has nothing to do with the sort of weathering and/or shading depicted in the shot of you posted.
> 
> Sorry if I wasn't clear, but I never meant to suggest that heavily-applied studio scale weathering of the sort required for a 60's-era TV series would be a good idea for a 1/350 display model. I was just trying to make a case for the Studio Model Color.


OK, sorry, I misunderstood. For some reason I assumed that the "Studio model, greenish gray tint with no aztecs" option included all that weathering, since much of that weathering is less than subtle green-blue airbrushing and is so prevalent on the top-saucer.

The MR E color scheme certainly appears "correct" to me as well. I'm thinking it's pretty darn close to the Studio color from what I gather from online photos.

As far as the "as it appeared on TV" color. I don't know how you define that since as someone else pointed out, that would depend on your TV. I mean our TV back in the late 60s was terrible and the ship looked almost white. On a different TV it would have a violet hue or a blue hue or something else on some other TV.

So, now I wish I could take my vote back and vote for the "Studio" option. Although, the "Remastered" looks good to me too--especially since those are the eps. I watch now--although without the aztecing.


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

MGagen said:


> So you were at that event, and with the lights off, the domes looked as if they were tinted amber?
> 
> I've seen black and white photos of the unlit model that have made me wonder if that was the case, but I've never heard an eyewitness clearly say so. Thank you!
> 
> M.


It was a field trip during my junior year of high school. Had I known beforehand the USS Enterprise filming model was on display, I would have brought a camera and plenty of flash cubes along. I walked into a room with few people inside, looked to my left and could not believe what I suddenly so lucky to be staring at. 

I was able to look the model over closely along the RH side. The only missing part was the sensor dish. The dome for the RH nacelle had what looked like a hairline crack of a few inches. I observed many details on the model that I never noticed during TV broadcasts. Some surprised me. This was mainly all of the small markings...hard if not impossible to see on TV, but clearly visible and readable up close. The grey color and the faint grid lines on the top of the saucer section were the biggest surprises. The "weathering" paint effects were noticeable but not to the extent seen on the model today.

Yes, the engine domes were light transparent orange in color... a light day-glow type of orange color. Whoever operated the model lighting gave a nice demonstration including the various engine rotor RPMs.

So my recollections do not become part of an unnecessary debate, the individual (Craig Thompson) who arranged for the model to be displayed at Golden West College had a different recollection of the nacelle domes as told to William S. McCullars and posted on his IDIC Page site. "The nacelle domes were white translucent hemispheres. Removing the exterior nacelle domes, there was a clear interior hemisphere with black lines that bisected the hemisphere, and this rotated at various controlled speeds. The starboard nacelle interior dome rotated clockwise, while the port side rotated counter-clockwise. Ten multicolored miniature Christmas lights were in each nacelle dome, just behind the rotating interior hemisphere." I have my recollections of what I saw, Mr. Thompson had his of what he saw and handled and life goes on.


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## MGagen (Dec 18, 2001)

Thank you, Wattanasiri, and thank you Trek ACE.

I spoke with Craig Thompson (and saw the decals he later auctioned) when he came to an Indianapolis convention. You are right that he reported the domes as untinted. I am inclined to trust your recollection (and especially Trek ACE's) instead.

The detail I am still unsure about is the "fanblade" dome. I corresponded with Richard Datin and he told me the inner dome was a metal bowl that had slots cut into it to allow the light to pass through. Thompson recalls a clear dome with black markings. The BW beauty shots I've seen take after (or during) the conversion to the series configuration look for all the world as if there is no inner dome at all. I've always wondered if what Datin described was tried, and found to emit too little light; so the opposite tack was tried: Instead of an opaque dome with slots, they switched to a clear dome with stripes. And the BW shots were taken after the elimination of the first, but before the installation of the second. 

Perhaps Trek ACE could weigh in on this...

M.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Now we're getting to the nitty gritty. 

I was with MGagen when we spoke to Mr. Thompson. But I too think the reports from Trek Ace and Wattanasari jibe with reality better.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Well, that's all well and good but the subject of the thread I think is the overall color scheme of the ship.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Proper2 said:


> Well, that's all well and good but the subject of the thread I think is the overall color scheme of the ship.


I welcome any color discussion, even the nacelle domes. I want my Enterprise to be as absolutely accurate to the 11ft. as possible, including the nacelle domes.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

PixelMagic said:


> I welcome any color discussion, even the nacelle domes. I want my Enterprise to be as absolutely accurate to the 11ft. as possible, including the nacelle domes.


Thanks. Any new nugget of info on the original is always welcome to me too. :thumbsup:


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

MGagen said:


> Thank you, Wattanasiri, and thank you Trek ACE.
> 
> The detail I am still unsure about is the "fanblade" dome. I corresponded with Richard Datin and he told me the inner dome was a metal bowl that had slots cut into it to allow the light to pass through. Thompson recalls a clear dome with black markings. The BW beauty shots I've seen take after (or during) the conversion to the series configuration look for all the world as if there is no inner dome at all. I've always wondered if what Datin described was tried, and found to emit too little light; so the opposite tack was tried: Instead of an opaque dome with slots, they switched to a clear dome with stripes. And the BW shots were taken after the elimination of the first, but before the installation of the second.
> M.


From my recollections, there did not seem to be an inner dome...more like "wide" ribs of an umbrella rotating inside the dome...comparable to your "fanblade" shaped like a dome.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Wattanasiri said:


> From my recollections, there did not seem to be an inner dome...more like "wide" ribs of an umbrella rotating inside the dome...comparable to your "fanblade" shaped like a dome.


That's what I remeber reading somewhere. It wasn't a dome so much as a metal ribbed cage that spun.


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## vulcangodoffire (Oct 7, 2009)

at one time there was a color made, i wish i knew who by but it matched the actual paint on the 11' miniature. it was called "cement green" wish i could find it


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

So when painting the nacelle domes, do we want to leave the outer domes clear, or tint them orange for accuracy? Is there a final word on the matter?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

vulcangodoffire said:


> at one time there was a color made, i wish i knew who by but it matched the actual paint on the 11' miniature. it was called "cement green" wish i could find it


Are you referring to the Paul Newitt article? He refers to the color of cement being the closest for the hull color.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

PixelMagic said:


> So when painting the nacelle domes, do we want to leave the outer domes clear, or tint them orange for accuracy? Is there a final word on the matter?


The outer dome was frosted. The inner dome was painted transparent orange once the original metal cage was lost.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I do wonder which effect would work better for the 350 model--clear domes with orange light bulbs, or orange domes with white lights?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

The Master Replicas E has non-tinted clear-frosted domes with multi-colored bulbs and this is the best effect when the motors/lights are on that I have seen.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Gregatron said:


> I do wonder which effect would work better for the 350 model--clear domes with orange light bulbs, or orange domes with white lights?


The thing about frosted domes is it helps to diffuse the light from the bulbs.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Gregatron said:


> I do wonder which effect would work better for the 350 model--clear domes with orange light bulbs, or orange domes with white lights?


And orange should not be the only color. The Enterprise had multi-color bulbs in there for the effect. I'd say frosted outer, slight orange tint inner and multi-color bulbs.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

jheilman said:


> And orange should not be the only color. The Enterprise had multi-color bulbs in there for the effect. I'd say frosted outer, slight orange tint inner and multi-color bulbs.


Definitely need some amber bulbs. Because amber is the color of her energy.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

jheilman said:


> And orange should not be the only color. The Enterprise had multi-color bulbs in there for the effect. I'd say frosted outer, slight orange tint inner and multi-color bulbs.


Mind you, I was referring to the cluster of big C7 bulbs, not the smaller, multicolored lights.

The frosted domes and the multicolored bulbs don't seem to be in dispute--just the colors of the big lights and the domes.

I'm leaning toward tinted domes and white--maybe orange?--bulbs, myself, based on available footage and stills.


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

jheilman said:


> And orange should not be the only color. The Enterprise had multi-color bulbs in there for the effect. I'd say frosted outer, slight orange tint inner and multi-color bulbs.


That is basically the direction I have been going in for the domes.

A few months ago, I experimented with the first and second pilot domes and tried a few ideas using Tamiya's 85073 TS-73 Clear Orange spray paint (See: http://www.trainz.com/p-230844-tami...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CI2inYurpLgCFWbhQgod5BUAOQ) on the inside plus a frosted spray for the outside. I quickly learned the hard way it is very easy to apply too much and ruin the effect. When my workload calms down, I plan to start over experimenting with different clear domes. All I have left are the "production" domes and I certainly do not want to mess those up.

I must admit Master Replicas achieved an excellent dome lighting effect on their 1:350 Enterprise model even though accomplished differently from what I remember seeing on the filming model in 1972. Round 2 is taking people in the same direction based on considerable effort on the company's part. Either way, model builders should be happy with the end result.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I was testing out some sanding resin in the windows of this scrap piece when I happened to photograph it once under direct sunlight, and once under indirect sunlight. 

The finish color is my own mix, based on the Master Replicas model. This is the same part, with the same finish, photographed under different lighting conditions. Dig that crazy tonal shift!





So you tell me… is the finish greenish grey or bluish grey?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Carson Dyle said:


> I was testing out some sanding resin in the windows of this scrap piece when I happened to photograph it once under direct sunlight, and once under indirect sunlight.
> 
> So you tell me… is the finish greenish grey or bluish grey?


[Shrug] I dunno. I would say the direct sunlit one is more "accurate" since it is mostly pure sunlight and less other-kind of light. But what good is that accuracy unless you're always displaying it out in that same pure sunlight? If you're displaying your model inside with mostly artificial lighting, it will look different yet again! :freak:


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Well, "accuracy" is a bonus I suppose, but to me the real appeal of this particular shade is the blue-green shift itself. 

I _like_ the fact that, depending on the lighting, the shade tends to play subtle tricks on the eyes. It hints at the way "large grey objects" sometimes appear in "real life," i.e. not all one uniformly consistent shade. Adds a degree of richness and depth. To my eyes anyway; mileage may vary. 

Anyway, it's something to consider.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Carson Dyle said:


> Well, "accuracy" is a bonus I suppose, but to me the real appeal of this particular shade is the blue-green shift itself.
> 
> I _like_ the fact that, depending on the lighting, the shade tends to play subtle tricks on the eyes. It hints at the way "large grey objects" sometimes appear in "real life," i.e. not all one uniformly consistent shade. Adds a degree of richness and depth. To my eyes anyway; mileage may vary.
> 
> Anyway, it's something to consider.


Looks terrific. Care to share your mix?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I had the color mixed at a local auto finishing shop, based on the finish found on the Master Replicas Enterprise miniature. And while I don't have a "mix" formula to share, I'm happy to pop a sample chip in the mail to anyone who wants one. Just shoot me a PM.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Coming back to this for a minute, was the final finish on the TOS Enterprise flat, semi-gloss, or gloss?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Satin/ semi-gloss finish according to Gary Kerr (although the dorsal of the 1st pilot was a glossy "pontiac engine blue"-like shade).


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Carson Dyle said:


> Satin/ semi-gloss finish according to Gary Kerr (although the dorsal of the 1st pilot was a glossy "pontiac engine blue"-like shade).


So if you gloss it for decaling and sealing and hit with a few coats of flat you should come out to a semi-gloss finish.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> So if you gloss it for decaling and sealing and hit with a few coats of flat you should come out to a semi-gloss finish.


Wouldn't it just be flat, overriding the gloss undercoat? For me, at least on this ship, I plan on painting the registries instead of decals.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

PixelMagic said:


> Wouldn't it just be flat, overriding the gloss undercoat? For me, at least on this ship, I plan on painting the registries instead of decals.


Depends. One coat of flat over gloss would leave a semi-gloss finish tending towards more glossy. More than two coats and you probably just have a flat finish.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

When spraying a final 'flat' clear coat I add a small amount of semi gloss(clear) to the flat clear so the finish doesn't look chalky. It can be adjusted to look a bit more semi gloss or more flat looking. On a Polar Lights 1/1000 TOS E I added a few drops of semi gloss to the flat clear. Especially for the small 1/1000 scale I feel a straight semi gloss would look toy like. 

For the 1/350 TOS E I would maybe do a mix of something like 75% flat to 20% semi gloss.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

PixelMagic said:


> For me, at least on this ship, I plan on painting the registries instead of decals.


Ditto. I sprang for a set of Orbital Drydock's paint masks, and I can't wait to try `em out.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Carson Dyle said:


> Ditto. I sprang for a set of Orbital Drydock's paint masks, and I can't wait to try `em out.


Does he have a website for ordering? I don't want to use eBay. He said he can take orders direct and accepts PayPal.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I went through eBay, but Orbital Drydock is a member here... why not shoot him a PM?

In addition, FWIW, I believe Lou "Aztek Dummy" Dalmaso now also offers a complete set of registry number/ livery marking masks for the TOS 1/350 E.


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

PixelMagic said:


> Coming back to this for a minute, was the final finish on the TOS Enterprise flat, semi-gloss, or gloss?


Perfect timing to ask this lol! I painted the sealing coat of gloss over the decals on my 1/2500 TOS E, and plan to put the final finish on Thursday.


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