# Masked the Reliant.. now what?



## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Hello again helpful people!

I finally finished closing up the ship, giving it a coat of MM "Camo Gray" for the base coat and bought "MM Flat Gull Gray" for the secondary/Aztec pattern. After seeing various models it's more of a gloss vs flat finish and now I'm questioning how I should go about this.

Is it better to:

1. Spray bomb Flat Gray -> Coat entire ship with MM Clear Pearl -> Paintbrush the rest (domes, engines etc) put down decals -> Clear/Glosscote finish or

2. Spray Aztec MM Clear Pearl -> Paintbrush -> Clear/Gloss -> Decals -> 2nd Clear?

Ugh I'm probably making this way more complicated than it needs to be... Any suggestions welcome.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Over 60 views and no suggestions? Surely someone has attempted this without an airbrush...


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Hmmm*

While I won't offer any specific paints, I will suggest that whatever color scheme you go with it should be hardly noticeable. At that scale, aztecing on that model should not be too stark. That's my biggest complaint about the aztecing decals...they contrast too much with the white hull (that and I've always thought the decals cheapened the work that people put into their models... I guess I've always felt that models are painted (with exceptions) and that decals go on toys). That said, I applaud that you are masking and not using decals. I would just make sure that your aztecing colors are very light so they are just barely darker than the white hull. I know that when I go to do my 350 E next year, that will be my method.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

GSaum said:


> While I won't offer any specific paints, I will suggest that whatever color scheme you go with it should be hardly noticeable. At that scale, aztecing on that model should not be too stark. That's my biggest complaint about the aztecing decals...they contrast too much with the white hull (that and I've always thought the decals cheapened the work that people put into their models... I guess I've always felt that models are painted (with exceptions) and that decals go on toys). That said, I applaud that you are masking and not using decals. I would just make sure that your aztecing colors are very light so they are just barely darker than the white hull. I know that when I go to do my 350 E next year, that will be my method.


Thanks for the reply! I agree and that's a major reason why I didn't want to go that route. I chose the two lightest spray can grays from Model Master (Camouflage and Flat Gull Gray) so hopefully it won't dry to much darker. Some people have used a mix of gloss and matte airbrushed colors / finishes but I really don't know if that's doable with rattle cans. 

Good luck on the 350! I wish I had the skill or space for that one.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

If you could somehow swing it, I think the dull/glossy coat duo is the way to go on the smaller scale ships. I just watched some clips from The Motion Picture, and it amazes me that even close up the aztec is barely noticable. And that's on an 8 foot model! If you watch any of the behind the scenes docs where they show the model itself in a crate, under regular lighting, the model looks predominately white with very little aztecing.

I guess it all depends on what you're going for. My own personal preference is to replicate what was seen on screen, not necessarily what the studio model looks like (which is why most of my references come from screen caps and not images of the studio models.) I know my base color for my Refit-E will not be white, but it will be some sort of off-white color (I've used Testor's Gull Grey before with some very striking results) and I will very, VERY lightly highlight the aztecing and other hull colors (like the neck, the dorsal of the secondary hull, etc.)


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

GSaum said:


> If you could somehow swing it, I think the dull/glossy coat duo is the way to go on the smaller scale ships. I just watched some clips from The Motion Picture, and it amazes me that even close up the aztec is barely noticable. And that's on an 8 foot model! If you watch any of the behind the scenes docs where they show the model itself in a crate, under regular lighting, the model looks predominately white with very little aztecing.


I really like the gloss/dull effect I'm just not what the process is. I have a normal gray down already, buffed it to a slight shine and it has the masks ontop that. Since technicaly I'm laying down the Aztec color, which should look flat, would I instead use a dullcote? But then to put down (and give a coating to the rest) gloss clear? But then that would ruin the dullcoate I just put down.. head hurts.


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

Aztec panels should be very subtle - consider mixing the offset color with your base coat (Camo Gray plus a bit of the Gull Gray). Don't mess with changing the glossiness until after you've applied decals. If you then wish to highlight panels with either a flat or gloss surface, make up some templates with the shapes you want and overspray with an airbrush.

Don't make it look like a giant checkerboard. Have fun!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

BlackbirdCD said:


> Aztec panels should be very subtle - consider mixing the offset color with your base coat (Camo Gray plus a bit of the Gull Gray). Don't mess with changing the glossiness until after you've applied decals. If you then wish to highlight panels with either a flat or gloss surface, make up some templates with the shapes you want and overspray with an airbrush.
> 
> Don't make it look like a giant checkerboard. Have fun!


Don't know how I can do that will spray cans 

I know one day soon I need to ante in and pick up a decent airbrush to rid myself of these issues!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I know nothing about this process, but I read a thread where someone did the subtle aztecing, and then over-misted a light, subtle single color to tone it down and tie it together. Whatever you decide, don't forget pictures! Can't wait to see!!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> I know nothing about this process, but I read a thread where someone did the subtle aztecing, and then over-misted a light, subtle single color to tone it down and tie it together. Whatever you decide, don't forget pictures! Can't wait to see!!


Thanks for the encouragement but please don't get too high of expectations!  You should read my other thread "New modeler's tale of how NOT to build a USS Reliant " and see what I mean ha. Here are a couple of my "dumbed down aztec'ing" shots. I got so frustrated trying to cut the small bits, and losing patience, I made a simplified pattern and just randomized the rest of the ship. Finger's crossed it all works out but I figure this is my experimental build to learn from.

Here is the top pattern right at the start. Again not "movie perfect" but I'm more doing this just to see how it works than for accuracy.









Oh what a nightmare! I've gone back and straightened some of the shapes out (sometimes you need to get away, this was BEFORE I got away) and added some thin lines as well.


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

You could always just download Arthur Pendragon's amazing Reliant decals......

Rich


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Don't know how I can do that will spray cans
> 
> I know one day soon I need to ante in and pick up a decent airbrush to rid myself of these issues!


Ah, my mistake. It's trickier without an airbrush, but not impossible. Using only rattle-cans, you can try this:

After masking, spray your aztec color. It'll be darker than the basecoat. Remove the masks, and then use your basecolor again to blend the entire ship. Go lightly as you can, and the colors will come together. Try it out on scrap pieces or plastic first, so you can get a feel for the technique.

Honestly I wouldn't worry about trying to mimic the gloss/flat effect unless you've got an airbrush. At this scale you'll have a great look without it.

Enjoy!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

BlackbirdCD said:


> Ah, my mistake. It's trickier without an airbrush, but not impossible. Using only rattle-cans, you can try this:
> 
> After masking, spray your aztec color. It'll be darker than the basecoat. Remove the masks, and then use your basecolor again to blend the entire ship. Go lightly as you can, and the colors will come together. Try it out on scrap pieces or plastic first, so you can get a feel for the technique.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tip I will have to try that once my finger heals and I'm able to finish the two pie pieces on the bottom  No pain no gain right?

Just out of curiosity with an airbrush would you just paint it a single color, gloss it, decal it THEN mask it and spray dull for the effect?


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

I buy spray bombs time to time...I decant it into a bottle to later shoot with a airbrush. All that good masking looks ready to go. Nicely done with that pattern.

This weekend now...Might be a good time and ante in for that airbrush.
For your modeling skills... one giant leap. Find a deal at a local Harbor Freight or hobby shop and for 30-40% coupons from a Hobby Lobby.

Then practice on scrap or disposable kits before your well masked Reliant.

DL Matthys
www.dlmparts.com
[email protected]
Make it Glow!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Since masking tape and decals are mortal enemies, I would make the decals the next to last item on the list.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

DL Matthys said:


> I buy spray bombs time to time...I decant it into a bottle to later shoot with a airbrush. All that good masking looks ready to go. Nicely done with that pattern.
> 
> This weekend now...Might be a good time and ante in for that airbrush.
> For your modeling skills... one giant leap. Find a deal at a local Harbor Freight or hobby shop and for 30-40% coupons from a Hobby Lobby.
> ...


First thank you for the compliment! Second too late I already spray bombed the 2nd coat earlier today. The good news is that it doesn't look too stark (phew!). I'll post a pic next.

As for the airbrush I already have it on my Christmas list for the wife.  Next up after this is an old Excelsior I picked up so I may need to get some parts from you.



Captain April said:


> Since masking tape and decals are mortal enemies, I would make the decals the next to last item on the list.


Noted! I plan on waiting a few days until I take the masking off, paint the dome and other small areas, clear coat THEN decals.

One question though: I bought MM Clear Pearl and a can of MM Gloss Clear. Should I put the gloss down first, decals THEN pearl?


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

One piece was already a little loose (It's cold here around 45F) so I carefully plucked it and noticed the light misting of MM Flat Gull Gray over the original MM Camoflage really isn't too stark. I'm really glad I kept my distance spraying and just did several passes.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I'd save the pearl coat for last.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

In a combo of impatience and someone telling me not to leave blue masking tape on for days (it can pull up paint if it sets too long?) I present the results.

It's a bit stark but nowhere near as bad as I feared it would be. I may get another can of MM Camo, put some random squares down over bits of the darker area and give it once last light coat. Not sure yet. (I really don't want to spend more money.)


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Captain April said:


> I'd save the pearl coat for last.


Thanks. I'm assuming if you do Pearl -> Gloss you kill the Pearl effect?


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Looks good to me! Great job!!!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

GSaum said:


> Looks good to me! Great job!!!


Thanks it took a LOT of work. While I'm happy with the basic effect (and that masking worked) I'm definitely buying an airbrush if I decide to do this on future models. The spray cans waste so much paint and have a very limited choice in colors (I really wanted some blue-gray mixed in). 

Also I'm going to pick up some of those Aztec templates because I'm glad I simplified the pattern (I didn't want to spend weeks on this since so much has gone wrong already.. and money) but you really don't get that non-linear effect without more of the positive/negative areas.

As I paint and gloss this I will make sure to post updates :wave:


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## Seashark (Mar 28, 2006)

That _does_ look really good; especially for having cut out the aztec pattern yourself, good work!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Seashark said:


> That _does_ look really good; especially for having cut out the aztec pattern yourself, good work!


Thank you and don't mind me I think I'm getting into nitpicky territory now. I keep thinking "maybe I should buy some more camo gray and try to tone it down" but I'm also afraid to OVER do it and ruin what I have down. I'm leaning towards "let it go Indiana...".


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

MLCrisis32 said:


> "let it go Indiana...".


I like that quote!




Great job you are doing! :thumbsup:
-Jim


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

JGG1701 said:


> I like that quote!
> Indiana, let it go! - YouTube
> Great job you are doing! :thumbsup:
> -Jim


Ding we have a winner!  I love that film.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Wow. That turned out fantastic! Are you kidding me? And in all honesty, the blue tape cutting made me wonder a bit. I muttered a sarcastic "good luck, brother" under my breath. Now I'm eatin' 'dem words!

That underside shot looks like the professional masking set was used.


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## BlackbirdCD (Oct 31, 2003)

Nicely done!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Wow. That turned out fantastic! Are you kidding me? And in all honesty, the blue tape cutting made me wonder a bit. I muttered a sarcastic "good luck, brother" under my breath. Now I'm eatin' 'dem words!
> 
> That underside shot looks like the professional masking set was used.





BlackbirdCD said:


> Nicely done!


Ha thanks and trust me I had the same thoughts going into this. My right index finger is quite sore and slightly swollen from all the cutting! I'm really glad that people have responded so well to my 1st attempt.

I actually used the aztec pattern from Starship Modeler's site found here , printed it out, taped it down on top of 2in blue painter's tape, cut out the pattern, placed it on the ship then cut out the negative and moved it to the one next to it. This process took about 4 days and nearly 12hrs of my life but it was fun to learn how it's done.

Now it's onto masking the domes, phaser banks etc for painting. I swear I have nightmares about blue tape now.


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

Yes it does look nice.
The last Reliant I did back in the late 90s I had the Walker Enterprises photo etched brass template set. It was only the pie slice patterns so I had to also get 3M blue masking tape onto the rest of the hull cut strips by triangle and t-square by #11 blade

But Mike's template set is a real timesaver, useful over and over again...
had more time for real pie....hummmmmm


I also have the Excelsior set of templates...at that scale I found them usefull on the Enterprise "C"











DLM


DLM


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

DL Matthys said:


> Yes it does look nice.
> The last Reliant I did back in the late 90s I had the Walker Enterprises photo etched brass template set. It was only the pie slice patterns so I had to also get 3M blue masking tape onto the rest of the hull cut strips by triangle and t-square by #11 blade
> 
> But Mike's template set is a real timesaver, useful over and over again...
> ...


I was looking for something similiar but he doesn't make them anymore and the only thing I've found are the vinyl stick-ons. I may pick up those if no one has the airbrush ones when I get ready for the Excelsior.


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## CLBrown (Sep 8, 2010)

Captain April said:


> Since masking tape and decals are mortal enemies, I would make the decals the next to last item on the list.


True... you never want tape on an unprotected decal.

Of course, you can put a clear coat (gloss, matte, or semi-gloss) on top of that, then mask... since the decals are already "sealed," it's generally perfectly safe (exception being those occasional HUGE decal panels, if not well-affixed).


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Sadly this project took a what seems to be destined turn for the worse. The "tip" I used in letting the fiber stick out (so I can cut it/melt it down to be flush) was a disaster. My clippers left about 1/4 in or more, chipped paint trying to get closer then using a soldering iron I melted down the fiber... except there was too much to melt and it wound up melting all over the place and through some of the plastic. 

*edit: The tip I was speaking of was letting the fiber stick out while painting then clip it later. I did all this work before posting here so I wasn't blaming anyone for my mistake on this.
*
I decided to try and salvage what I could by sanding the living crap out of it with various grades of paper but sadly the melting process left the plastic warped and the holes deformed. I mixed up some paint to match the primary hull and filled in some of the gaps here is the result.

Not sure if I have the willpower to do anything more with this which is sad considering the time and money put into it (It has lights too). Any suggestions welcome otherwise this may just sit in a closet unfortunately. Also if you think this looks bad you should have seen it BEFORE. I was just too heartbroken to think about snapping images but some parts melted through the paint completely.

Thanks for all the tips and support! At least I learned how NOT to build a model but with everyone's good advice next time I will have a much better go at it. :thumbsup:


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

I think unless someone has a better idea I may just sand down the front, putty it up and try to smooth it out as much as possible, re-re-paint the rim and call it a day. I can pick up some 3rd party sensor bar/window decals and just not use the few lights I've tossed in it.

I've also read that Milliput might be a better solution than the (IMHO) terrible Squadren Green Putty I picked up that dries/flakes within a second. Any suggestions on using the Milliput?


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Eeek!*

I've never lit a model (yet), so I'm speaking from a lack of experience. With that in mind, I think you have two options:

Option 1: This is the more challenging of the two. Pry open that saucer, pull out the fiber optics, fill then redrill the holes, (edit: replace the fiber optics in the new holes), glue it back together, and paint where you need to. That sounds like a huge pain in the butt, though, so I'm sure option 2 would be more appealing. Speaking of which...

Option 2: Fill the holes, sand, putty, sand, paint, apply decals. Seems like you're leaning toward this option already, which is understandable.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

MLCrisis32 I really feel your pain mate. Maybe you could just clean up the saucer edge n rim but instead of filling the windows you just drill & file them. Paint it up then fill the windows with Micro Scale Krystal Klear. Just a thought...

Cheers,
Alec.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

GSaum said:


> I've never lit a model (yet), so I'm speaking from a lack of experience. With that in mind, I think you have two options:
> 
> Option 1: This is the more challenging of the two. Pry open that saucer, pull out the fiber optics, fill then redrill the holes, glue it back together, and paint where you need to. That sounds like a huge pain in the butt, though, so I'm sure option 2 would be more appealing. Speaking of which...
> 
> Option 2: Fill the holes, sand, putty, sand, paint, apply decals. Seems like you're leaning toward this option already, which is understandable.


First thanks for the replies I appreciate it and out of those two I would definitely choose option 2! After all the puttying I had to do on the rear section no way I want deal with that again. 

I'm open to suggestion on what putty to use.. the green stuff was not a pleasant experience. It seemed to dry and crumble in seconds.



AJ-1701 said:


> MLCrisis32 I really feel your pain mate. Maybe you could just clean up the saucer edge n rim but instead of filling the windows you just drill & file them. Paint it up then fill the windows with Micro Scale Krystal Klear. Just a thought...
> 
> Cheers,
> Alec.


Also thanks for the reply. The big question I have about this solution is given the amount of damage all around the rim I'd have to putty over the existing fiber/holes so if I do that how do you mark/remember where to drill? I also assume I'd have to power-drill it out as my pinvise just get stuck trying to go through the thick fiber optics. (which I tried earlier today. Once it starts into the FO it just stops the drill dead.)


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I always use the green stuff. I squeeze the tiniest amount out of a tube onto a piece of scrap paper, and then use a toothpick of something like that to apply. I also constantly mix the putty that I've squeezed out. Yep, it dries fast, which is why I only squeeze out as little as I can. I know there's other putties out there, but I haven't tried them.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Yes it is a pain to drill out f/optics... But here is another thought... You say you are going to sand it back. If you do that you will be taking the fibres back to the hull anyway and once you have it all sanded back use a very small hole punch to punch out masks from tape for the fibres, note that that the next part will be tedius. Cover the fibres and repair the paint job when its finished & dry remove the masks and add a bit of future to the fibre tips in the hull. They'll look a bit frosted, depending on how you sanded them of course, but that might help with the diffusing them to a more subtle glow and the future might also take away some of the frosted finish on them. More importantly you should still have windows with light...

As for fillers I haven't tried the squadron green stuff or milliput I tend to use varying types of fillers including the white squadron putty but it also suffers from a drying thing so I just do stuff in small areas & stages, I'm not a big fan of 2 part ones though, I also use a waterbased timber filler(not a plaster based one) which is occasionally aided by superglue when it's dried and sanded back... Not vary conventional but it works for me. I reckon there is as much art as there is science in model making, I know I wouldn't have the guts to aztek anything with rattle cans. Let alone get the finish you have achieved :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Alec

p.s not sure if this helped but I hope so.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

GSaum said:


> I always use the green stuff. I squeeze the tiniest amount out of a tube onto a piece of scrap paper, and then use a toothpick of something like that to apply. I also constantly mix the putty that I've squeezed out. Yep, it dries fast, which is why I only squeeze out as little as I can. I know there's other putties out there, but I haven't tried them.


Maybe I'm just not fast enough with it! I might give it a shot using a small paint knife and try to make a smooth surface but quickly. 



AJ-1701 said:


> Yes it is a pain to drill out f/optics... But here is another thought... You say you are going to sand it back. If you do that you will be taking the fibres back to the hull anyway and once you have it all sanded back use a very small hole punch to punch out masks from tape for the fibres, note that that the next part will be tedius. Cover the fibres and repair the paint job when its finished & dry remove the masks and add a bit of future to the fibre tips in the hull. They'll look a bit frosted, depending on how you sanded them of course, but that might help with the diffusing them to a more subtle glow and the future might also take away some of the frosted finish on them. More importantly you should still have windows with light...
> 
> As for fillers I haven't tried the squadron green stuff or milliput I tend to use varying types of fillers including the white squadron putty but it also suffers from a drying thing so I just do stuff in small areas & stages, I'm not a big fan of 2 part ones though, I also use a waterbased timber filler(not a plaster based one) which is occasionally aided by superglue when it's dried and sanded back... Not vary conventional but it works for me. I reckon there is as much art as there is science in model making, I know I wouldn't have the guts to aztek anything with rattle cans. Let alone get the finish you have achieved :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


No you guys have all been helpful I appreciate it. I'm thinking about sanding it down as much as possible, use some putty to fill in the uneven valleys then try to mask/paint and see if I can save the windows.

Side question what grit works best with FO sanding? I've tried 400 and it seemed to take off the paint but didn't really shave down the FO mess.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

My stomach did a "slow roll" when I read your mishap. So sorry to hear it. But I'm in your corner, and, boy, I've screwed up some otherwise good builds. But this pup is definitely worth salvaging. 

I haven't done a starship since I was a teen, but a few years ago, I invested in a Dremil tool (low RPM battery powered), and it really got me out of a few Green Putty messes.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> My stomach did a "slow roll" when I read your mishap. So sorry to hear it. But I'm in your corner, and, boy, I've screwed up some otherwise good builds. But this pup is definitely worth salvaging.
> 
> I haven't done a starship since I was a teen, but a few years ago, I invested in a Dremil tool (low RPM battery powered), and it really got me out of a few Green Putty messes.


Thank you especially since you know what this last minute "oops" feels like. I kept thinking "Why didn't I deal with these BEFORE I spent 12hrs cutting masks, applying masks, spray painting and 6hrs brush painting everything else?!" 

I've managed to sand the #$*@ out of the rim and got I'd say 90% of the smoothness back with a few really bad areas. I may just putty up those fibers and leave them "off" because they are so misshapen/damaged that I'd have to drill it out completely and I don't really want to make new holes in what is now a thin layer of styrene. 

I need to find a hole punch or just use the white glue as others have suggested for the windows I want to keep and get another can of MM Camouflage Gray, mask and redo the rim. 

Side question: What type of hole punch do you use on masking tape? Or do you use one of those stomp-out for leather punch tools?


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

Made that FO error about 30 years ago when fiber optic was just getting cool to do and easy to find for lighting up the Sci-fi model hobby.

I can reccomnend all sorts of punches to make round dots.
At this AMT Reliant scale a good paper punch to use is made by Fiscas...found in paper craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Micheals.
Look for the 2mm hole or 1/16.

A mini punch and die like the old Waldron set is at Micromark tools.
The Waldron sets mini and micro is at Roll Models.

I also use a leather punch set... Made for Tandy Leather kits and craft.


The trick to make sticky round "blunts" is to stick masking tape like 3M blue or Tamiya yellow to thin plastic sheet. Lay down some double sided tape. Place the dot... Masking tape side up onto the double tack tape.

To place the tape mask dot onto the model...poke it with a sharp #11 blade, lift it off and place it on the model window. When all the paint is done and dry... Lift the window masks off the same way.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Thank you especially since you know what this last minute "oops" feels like. I kept thinking "Why didn't I deal with these BEFORE I spent 12hrs cutting masks, applying masks, spray painting and 6hrs brush painting everything else?!"
> 
> I've managed to sand the #$*@ out of the rim and got I'd say 90% of the smoothness back with a few really bad areas. I may just putty up those fibers and leave them "off" because they are so misshapen/damaged that I'd have to drill it out completely and I don't really want to make new holes in what is now a thin layer of styrene.
> 
> ...


I wonder if Lou at Aztekdummy would do a vinyl sheet or two of just different round and rectangular masks of different sizes and diameters to purchase? I'd love to buy a few sheets, just to have on hand. If he can "laser cut" those tiny turbine fins for the Flying Sub, I KNOW he can do some generic circles and rectangles. I'd buy a set or two for $9-$15 a set.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

DL Matthys said:


> Made that FO error about 30 years ago when fiber optic was just getting cool to do and easy to find for lighting up the Sci-fi model hobby.
> 
> I can reccomnend all sorts of punches to make round dots.
> At this AMT Reliant scale a good paper punch to use is made by Fiscas...found in paper craft stores like Hobby Lobby and Micheals.
> ...


Thanks! That answered just about every question I had about making masks in one go. Looks like hobby lobby is going to get more of my cash this week.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

That turned out really well for a homemade masking job and rattle cans. Well done!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> That turned out really well for a homemade masking job and rattle cans. Well done!


Thanks I'm trying to clean her up! Also thanks to everyone who encouraged me to keep trying to fix the "Great Melted Fiber Optic Disaster: 2011". 

I sanded it down as far as I felt comfortable going (I started to warp the shape of the saucer so I stopped. In my opinion it looks much, much better with a nice sanding/masking/spray coat. It does have some dings and mishapen areas but still 80% smoother than it was before.

Once it dries I'm going to try and gently sand it, add some brushed paint to fill in some of the cracks.. or putty not sure. Here is how she looks today.

Before: http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x469/updownleftD/Reliantoops1-1.jpg


After: http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x469/updownleftD/MomFamPics11-1-2.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x469/updownleftD/MomFamPics11-1-3.jpg


And the area that got the worst damage...

Before: http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x469/updownleftD/Reliantoops3.jpg
After: http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x469/updownleftD/MomFamPics11-5-2.jpg
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x469/updownleftD/MomFamPics11-3-2.jpg


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

I'm so sorry if you trying to read this for the last few minutes my photobucket account was giving all sorts of errors when trying to link to them.


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