# The Monster Scenes � By A Couple of Rookies



## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*The Monster Scenes – By A Couple of Rookies*

As both of us are new this year to the forum, Roadflea & I have teamed up to put to use all of the wonderful tips & techniques for building & painting figure kits that everyone has so generously shared with us.

It’s our way of saying “Thanks” for all the help that has been given to us and to show how much we’ve learned from each of you.

For this undertaking, we will each be building 3 of the kits in the line as released so far. Since we’re just a couple of rookies getting together to build some monsters, this project is going to take us a while so we hope everyone will be patient with us and share more tips & suggestions with us as we progress along.

It’s a community build so feel free to join us (especially if you’re a rookie) as we build……

The Monster Scenes​


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Frankenstein Part I:*

I decided to start our build with the Frankenstein Monster. 
Here’s a look at what’s inside the box in case you haven’t opened yours yet:










There are 15 parts molded in “Glow” plastic. Very clean and no flash.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Frankenstein Part II:*

Here’s a look at the sub-assemblies:










Nothing fancy. I cemented the arms, legs, & torso halves together with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and when dry used my knife to scrape down the seams then used various grades of sandpaper to clean everything up. The underside of each arm had a hole in them so I filled these with Aves (which was my first time to use this stuff and it is great!) I decided to cement the arms in place & used Tamiya Basic Putty to fill the seams around the shoulder area.

I’m really amazed that I got this far so quickly. I’ll be back soon to let you know how the priming and painting go. Any suggestions on a good color scheme for the clothing??? 

A.U.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Traditionally Frankenstein ('s Monster) wears black. I finished mine in different shades of "black" with very dark brown boots. To keep the glow look, a wash of dark green enamel paint over the skin gave a nice result. It still glows but you can see the detail.


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Sounds good guys! Don't forget my video series...which I still have to finish : 


















I'll have to finish the series when my home computer gets sound again (Screwed up in a repair) and when I get a camera/editing software that works with the computer.


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

AHHH.... Monsters!


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Thanks for posting those videos, MCR!
Wish we could have a Monster Scenes party @ your store when we all finish!:dude:


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Sure. Just fly over!


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

THANKS for the video's they are great


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Cool thread! I look forward to seeing you guys progress :thumbsup:


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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

Nice start!!! Will be looking forward to see how you guys do!!
Thanks! Steve


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

MadCap Romanian said:


> Sure. Just fly over!


I'll take that as an open invitation & might just do that sometime. The wife & I have been talking about where to go this coming year for our vaction. I'm sure MH is the best place in town. Any other neat things to see & do there?????

A.U.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*A Place to Stand*

It occured to me while I was preparing the sub-assemblies for priming that my choice of the straight leg option would make the kit base pretty useless. So after a little thought and drumming up a little courage, I decided to do something that I have never done before….I decided to make my own.

I couldn’t seem to find any references of what a dungeon floor would look like so using a rectangular piece of piece of balsa foam & a little artistic license, I carved out a simple, stone block floor to use as a base for the figure.










While very generic in appearance, I am happy with the way it turned out and think once i get it painted it will make a nice, sturdy base for the figure to stand on. More importantly though, I tried something new!

A.U.


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Very cool!


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

AU,

GREAT looking stone floor base! Can't wait to see what else you do with this one...

MMM


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

GREAT looking base


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

HI ALL just to prove i am going to contribute LOL i got my pendulum opened this eve . AU will be way ahead of me so be patient with me i have to go get a 2nd pain block injection that will have me down and out tom but will try to get some glue time in i will give them a bath tonight so they will be dry tom if i get upstairs 























yes i know the pics are bad my wife will be on the camera after this LOL


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Can't wait to see it!


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

MonsterModelMan said:


> GREAT looking stone floor base! Can't wait to see what else you do with this one...
> MMM


MMM,

Thanks! See, told you that your "surgery" on your Franky thread had inspired me to try new things.:thumbsup:

A.U.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

MadCap Romanian said:


> Can't wait to see it!


Me either! Roadflea, I might just have to arrange for a victim for your "devious" device.


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Congradulations, you guys have created the follow-up thread to my "Let's build The Wolfman" thread.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*All Primed Out*

After a couple of days break for the holidays, I was finally able to get a little more done. 
Sorry if the pics are a little dark. I'm still learning to use my camera.

Here’s a look at the sub-assemblies after priming:











And the base I made:










I used Krylon Grey sprayed at a distance of about 2 ½ to 3 feet. 
Once the primer coat has had a chance to dry for 24 hours, I’ll proceed with the painting.


A.U.


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## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

Looking very cool so far. I love the base you made. 

Keep the updates coming.:thumbsup:

Sean


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Looks terrific in primer. I bougth two...one to keep in glow and one for painting.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

HI ALL got a bit done tonight will primer soon gonna try airbrushing primer for the first time we will see how it goes


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

That Pendulum is a real "Cut-Up"! (1960's term meaning Kool!)


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

YES I GOTCHA MAN we will see how it is going to go it is bigger than i thought


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Thanks for the compliments on the base I have had so much fun with this one that I'll probably 
build a "glow" version also and use the other arms/legs.
I've had lots of company @ my house the last week but hopefully I can get back to painting soon.

RF,

Looking Great:thumbsup: Good Luck with the airbrushing & let me know how it works for you. 
I've been thinking of maybe getting one.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

ok guys i got it in primer but i took the fast way out and did it with a can i wont post again till i get some color on


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Looks great! If it were myself, I might have painted it in red primer for the wood instead of grey for the rocks.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

ahh now there is a idea i might have to redo the wood in red oxide primer i have it in a enamel i used the gray because i did not want to loose the detail in the wood i love the tamiya fine primer


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

I just wish someone would put yellow primer in a spray can up here in Canada. It would make the Frankenstein models so much more easier to paint.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

ok i give why yellow for frankie ??? how about a flat yellow oh by the way i will be breaking out my pl edition wolfman soon you inspired me


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

A yellow undercoat so that when you do the green transperancies for his skin tones, it makes them somewhat brighter than using a flat grey primer undercoat.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

very kool i will learn all these tips sometime lol


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Slight Setback*

Thought I give a quick update. Unfortunately, I've been battling a case of the flu the last few days so I've kinda got behind but hopefully will get back to the build in the next day or so.

Roadflea, looking good so far. Keep the pics coming!


A.U.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Frankenstein Part III*

I was feeling better yesterday so I got in a little painting.

Here’s a look at the leg sub-assembly after painting:








I hand painted (don't own a airbrush...yet) black as a basecoat followed by a heavy drybrushing of red-brown on the boots and a light drybrushing of a dark charcoal gray on the pants. I was going for a worn, faded look. I found black to be very difficult to shade and highlight and I’m still not sure I got it to look okay. I may wind up stripping the paint and trying again. You guys let me know what you think.

Hopefully by the weekend I can get the torso painted and the figure completed and placed on his base.

A.U.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

A.U.,

You're doing fine. Black can be tricky, as it's easy to over drybrush; then you get gray. I did Dracula and the Phantom's smooth black tuxedos by spraying them with rattle can flat black over primer. The sprays left enough "tooth" for the medium gray drybrushing I did. That was enough - room light adds the highlights.

Keep at it, I'm still waiting for some pix for the Black Swamp Modelers site!


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

I do all my blacks the same way. One shot of Flat Black primer. Sometimes just touching the paint with your hands while assembling the model doesthe rest, adding a bit of finger grease shine on the top edges.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Mark & MCR 
Thanks for the comments and for the new tips.

A.U.



Mark McGovern said:


> ...I'm still waiting for some pix for the Black Swamp Modelers site!


I've ordered some photography supplies for my camera that I'm in hopes will help me solve a few of the issues I've been experiencing. As soon as they arrive, I'll be getting the pics to you.


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## Rebel Rocker (Jan 26, 2000)

Boy, for a couple of rookies, you guys sure seem to have a LOT of tools and supplies!! You got some some gadgets that I don't even have!! :freak:

Wayne


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

yea we might have the tools but the knowledge and skill to use them is another thing LOL


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

HI ALL just thought i would let you know i am on my feet again got the pendulum in some color tonight got the blade done and most of the wood done not sure how much weathering i want to do still need to do the rock base and some touch ups to the wood and more metal work done but i will post pics of what i have so far tom night let me know what you think GREAT PANTS AU we are off to a good start


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

ok guys got all the wood in color except for the piece with the blade now it is on to get the metal painted


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

the wood looks good. Try using a black wash on it. It will bring out the grain.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

THANKS i will do that


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Rebel Rocker said:


> Boy, for a couple of rookies, you guys sure seem to have a LOT of tools and supplies!! You got some some gadgets that I don't even have!! :freak:





roadflea said:


> yea we might have the tools but the knowledge and skill to use them is another thing LOL


I totally agree, RF. Actually, I don't have a whole lot that I work with. I've had do do alot of improvising along the way with toothpicks, paper clips, and duct tape.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

roadflea said:


> GREAT PANTS AU


Thanks, RF. I really like the pendelum. It's coming along nicely!



roadflea said:


> we are off to a good start


And more importantly, we having a great time too



MadCap Romainian said:


> the wood looks good. Try using a black wash on it. It will bring out the grain.


RF,

Let me know if you can get this to work for you. No matter how many times I try doing washes, I always wind up making a mess of things. That's my holdup now. I had a nice basecoat on the flesh areas, tried using a dark green wash, and messed the whole thing up. I had to strip the primer/paint work so far and I'm now in the process of reworking the upper torso. Oh well, on the bright side, at least I've been able to practice my paint removal skills. 

A.U.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

A.U.,

When you apply a wash, you can't go wrong by using different kinds of paint for the base coat and the washes. For example, if you basecoat with an acrylic (water based) paint, then you would apply a wash made from thinned oil based paint, or vice versa. You can apply a wash of the same type paint as the base coat IF you allow the base coat to dry thoroughly AND you don't mess around with the wash too much once you've applied it (like rubbing it with a paper towel).

Some modelers try to preserve the base color with a shpritz of Testors Dullcote. It makes an okay sealer, but Dullcote won't make the base color impervious to a lot of handling. It's best to go easy as you learn to handle washes. After the wash has dried, if you don't think the color is dark enough, you can go over it again with a darker mix. Remember also that you'll be increasing the contrast of the raised and recessed areas of your model when you drybrush with lighter colors.


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## mrmurph (Nov 21, 2007)

Impressive so far!

Mark, thanks for the tips on washes.


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Actually, I'd wash the wood with a dark brown acrylic.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Nice work, MCR. When I was painting my Hunchback's wheel I was looking for an effect of weathered wood. The base color was a grayish tan; over that I applied a wash made of India ink and water, with a little rubbing alcohol added to allow the wash to seep into all the crevices. Oddly enough the ink dried into a series of gray striations that looked just like wood grain.

Here's a link to some photos if you'd like to see how the effect turned out: http://members.toast.net/blackswampmodelers/MM_Hunchback Page.htm (as I look at the photos now, the wood grain effect didn't get picked up by the camera too well; you can see it mostly in the top 2 photos). This effect would be a great addition to your bag of painting tricks, when you want to get unusual patterns that break up a flat area of color.

And while you're on the BSM site, you might want to get a gander at our newest member's Gallery, that of our own Ark Undertaker: http://members.toast.net/blackswampmodelers/JS_Gallery Page.htm!


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

That is one great looking base MCR! 



Mark McGovern said:


> When you apply a wash, you can't go wrong by using different kinds of paint for the base coat and the washes. For example, if you basecoat with an acrylic (water based) paint, then you would apply a wash made from thinned oil based paint, or vice versa. You can apply a wash of the same type paint as the base coat IF you allow the base coat to dry thoroughly AND you don't mess around with the wash too much once you've applied it (like rubbing it with a paper towel).


This is exactly what I......didn't do. Thanks for explaining this one. It's been stumping me for a while now. I've been using a acrylic base and an acrylic wash and using a qtip to soak up the excess and to try to blend everthing. I'll try using an enamel wash this next time. How long should I wait after basecoating? I think I waited 6 to 8 hours the first time I tried it.


Mark,

Thanks for making my membership into the BSM "official" and for announcing it here on the forum. It's great to be a BlackSwamp Modeler. Now, if I can just remember to get in on my Dremel Salute this year (missed last years). Maybe I better get stocked up on gauze, ointment, suture, band-aids, etc. first though. 

Joshua (A.U.)


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

ark undertaker said:


> ...How long should I wait after basecoating? I think I waited 6 to 8 hours the first time I tried it.


A.U.,

Eight hours would be about the minimum I would allow the base coat to dry. Even after paint seems dry, it still takes time to cure completely - ask the car builders how long they let their *gloss* finishes dry! There are two ways to apply washes, either by slopping them all over the model or by applying "pin washes" to the recessed areas.

For Frankenstein's monster, I'd suggest the slopping method (pin washes would be better for features like the big bolt heads on RFlea's Pendulum). If your wash was fairly weak and only darkened the crevices, you might just let it dry without doing anything else to it. Later you would drybrush with the base color to lighten everything except the recesses, which you want to appear darker. Finally, you would drybrush with a lightened mix of the base color to emphasize the highlights

If your wash was very dark you'd give it a few moments to set up and then wipe off the excess with a rag. For the best effect you'd wipe in one direction, following the path that shadows would fall on your figure, presumably from top to bottom. After the wash was dry completely you could drybrush the lighter colors to bring out the details.

Painting any model isn't always a matter of following step-by-step procedures as I've just delineated them. Sometimes you'll have to go back and forth: "Oops, those highlights are too light; I'll tone 'em down with another wash...Rats! The wash was too dark, I'll drybrush a lighter color, etc." It would be the rare figure that would look good painted with a couple of colors straight out of the bottle or can. Indeed, all the colors you may apply as you search for just the right look for your Franky will likely work together to get you the results you wanted.

Or, in a worst case scenario, you can always fall back on your paint stripping skills. Good luck and don't forget to post us more pics!


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Thanks, Mark!

I decided to play it safe this time around and gave the basecoat a full day to cure before trying another wash. I did use an enamel one this time. It's turned out fairly well, I think.

I've got the flesh areas done and am currently working on the clothing. I hope to have Franky finished and pics posted by Monday.

RF, You still around?????

A.U.


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

yep still around and hope to get more done on sat or sun i will post pics then just life stuff gettin in the way LOL


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

got the metal in color tonight still lots of painting to do let me know what you think so far ?


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Looks great! 

Not too sure if the kitchen is the best place for this type of model though....unless you're Vlad Tepes!


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

RFlea,

MCR has a point. 

Your metal work looks great, but will get marred when you wash and drybrush the wood grain detail. I'd've done that first along with the stone base, and then the metal parts. It's generally best to paint from the inside out, that is, from the most recessed areas to the most prominent ones. You're not facing a disaster, just a little extra touch up work (that I do more of than straight building, so don't think you're in an exclusive club! :dude.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

RF,

Looks great to me too. I think you've got a steadier hand than I do. I probably would have got paint everywhere trying to detail some of those metal parts.

I'm definately gonna try the inside/out perspective Mark shared with us. Might just save me a lot of extra work I've been finding myself with lately.

I did get Franky done yesterday. All that's left is to cement him to his base. I'll get that done tonight and get some pics taken and posted tommorrow.

A.U.


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Can't wait to see them!


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Frankenstein Part IV*

Here’s a look at the torso sub-assembly after painting:










I used the same process on the torso clothing that I used on the legs. For the flesh areas, I basecoated with a medium green, applied a greenish-gray wash (it doesn’t really show in the pic but it’s there), then drybrushed a yellow-green for the highlights. Detailed the scars with a deep red. On the neck bolts and forehead staples I used aluminum but these turned out a little bright. I may go back at a later and redo them in a blackish-steel color.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Ready For Assembly*

Here’s a look at the sub-assemblies and the base after painting:










All that's left is to cement the sub-assemblies together the cement him to his base.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

*Frankenstein Done*

Here’s my Monster Scenes Frankenstein after assembly and attaching him to the base:



















Well, that takes care of Frankenstein’s Monster. Now on to ???????????


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

again i think he looks GREAT i hope to catch up to you this sat or sun will post pics when i get back into it


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

hey all got a few things going on at work i hope to get more work in on the pendulum toady will post pics when done thanks


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Take your time, RF - Don't rush on our account! :thumbsup:


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

roadflea said:


> ...got a few things going on at work...


I know all about that! No worries....Take your time.....I do 
I am looking forward to seeing the results of your labors, my friend!


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

ok guys got everything in paint now all i need to do is string it up post should be soon THANKS


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## Mark_6478 (Aug 27, 2000)

Really excellent job on the Frankenstein Monster... Looking forward to seeing
which one you do next! :thumbsup:


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Been a while since I posted an update to the thread so here are a few in progress shots of my Dr. Deadly.

































Still some things to do yet and plan to add a liberal splattering of blood on the apron and gloves. Hopefully, I'll have him all finished soon!

A.U.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

A.U.,

Great job on the Doctor's body, but it strikes me that there's something missing about his head...


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

If I wasn't familiar with this kit...it looks like the doctor might be wearing a bow-tie! 
Great job on the doctors colors...coming along nicely!

MMM


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Thanks guys! I'm kinda struggling with the flesh colors at present. 
May just wind up filling in the "bowtie" hole and claiming that Dr. D got into some of Dr. Griffin's "invisible" juice.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Very nice choice of colors. Looks the biz.
James


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

HEY AU i really like what you got going there the colors are GREAT hang in there with the flesh tones that is also the hardest part for me you got a pm comin in soon GREAT JOB


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## Mystic Colin (Mar 4, 2010)

Looks awesome Undertaker. The black outlining really makes the apron pop. What did you use to get that weathered look to his apron and gloves? I may have to steal your technique for my own Dr. D if that's okay with you.


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Mystic Colin said:


> Looks awesome Undertaker. The black outlining really makes the apron pop. What did you use to get that weathered look to his apron and gloves? I may have to steal your technique for my own Dr. D if that's okay with you.


MC,

Not really my technique but I'm happy to share what I did. I basecoated everything in flat black then basically drybrushed the colors on from there going from the dark to light. I do all my kits this way. It's a work-around for my lack of mastery of the "wash" technique. Nothing to it really. I have found through trial and error that some colors (blues, greys, browns) drybursh better over black than others (reds and greens). Hope this helps and let me know how it works for you.

A.U.


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