# Best Putty?



## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Well, I have tried MMD Squadron White Putty, which is very hard to work with. Out of a new tube it is crumbly, sticks to my finger, and any I manage to press into a seam or crack, comes off onto the stuff on my finger. I'm not sure if I should switch to the car stuff or if there is another kind that is moister or more workable, while not working against itself.

Any suggestions appreciated!

Thanks!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I've found there is no one putty for every single application. But, for general use, I use Tamiya Basic (grey) putty. It is the usual solvent based, model putty, but it is very good. It does shrink a bit, but for general work it is fine. It sticks very well, dries quickly, and feathers in well when you wet sand it. I do not like the similar Tamiya White Putty, which does not stick well. 

I also get reasonable results with Squadron Green Putty. It performs better than the White stuff. Oddly, it seems that the formula for the White putty was changed, as it used to be very good. I suspect there are some ingredient issues with putties as the Tamiya White stuff came out when the Grey was withdrawn from the market for some time. 

Bondo Red Glazing Putty works well for some things. It dries quickly and is very easy to sand. I find in a way it is too easy to sand as its easy to remove too much too quickly. 

Perfect Plastic Putty is a water based acrylic putty. It bonds pretty well to plastic and feathers out nicely when sanded. But, being water based (and water soluble, you can't wet sand it. You can, however, use it to fill fine lines and cracks and then wipe the putty down before it sets, to avoid a lot of sanding. 

Gap Filling CA glue is a good filler for some things. Work the seam down fairly quickly as when it is fully cured the CA can be much harder than surrounding plastic or wood. If you try to sand it you may just sand around the glue if you arent careful.

Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer is a solvent based, liquid primer and filler. You can brush it into fine cracks and gape and use it to fill mold pin marks and sink holes. Wipe it clean before it sets to avoid sanding.


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## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

Bondo or Milliput for larger areas that need filling or moulding.
Spot Glazing putty for small sinkholes and marks.
Super glue and baking soda for gap filling.
Just some of the stuff I use.


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## shabo451 (Jan 27, 2008)

For seams, I usually just apply some CA then sand after a minute. Creates a filler. For larger openings, I've been using Aves two part putty


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

When you go to buy what ever brand of putty suggested here also pick up a putty spatula for applying putty and you'll not be getting any on you fingers.
Also no single brand is best, they all have their faults. I used Testors in a tube for years but it was always runny and then I started using Bondo in a tube which aint so runny.


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## -Hemi- (May 5, 2014)

I myself, for putty, have used the Testors gray stuff. general use tho, NOTHING special....

However, another way of getting a truely "good" putty? I take the old Testors Seamless glue, and because I have a "belt sander, I keep it clean enough to be able to use the sanding dust from sanding plastic, mix it with the Testors glue (its like a powder its that fine of dust) and mix well....This makes a wonderful puty, BUT the catch is getting the "solids" fine enough for putty application, I've found. The pro is, it can be "mixed" to whatever consistency, you prefer.....

The Testors "seamless" glue softens the surface, enough to adhere, and acts as a thin filler within the mixed in dust/powder.

I am working up the gull to try actual Bondo too......I've heard it works well as well.....even on models!


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Hemi, I've never heard of Testors Seamless glue. I wonder if it is similar to their Liquid glue? As usual, all of you are wondering founts of information. I used to do CA and microbubbles, but found it extremely hard to sand, flattening the plastic to either side as I did so. 

Irishtrek, I'll see about a putty spatula. Gonna experiment with a popsicle stick until the money comes in. 

I'll try Bondo and the other suggestions. I figure that if I can attach a piece of sanding paper to the inside of a toilet paper tube half, it might help with the tops of airliners, keeping them round and not flattening them. We'll see.

Thank you, Everyone!


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## vypurr59 (Sep 25, 2011)

charonjr said:


> Hemi, I've never heard of Testors Seamless glue. I wonder if it is similar to their Liquid glue? As usual, all of you are wondering founts of information. I used to do CA and microbubbles, but found it extremely hard to sand, flattening the plastic to either side as I did so.
> 
> Irishtrek, I'll see about a putty spatula. Gonna experiment with a popsicle stick until the money comes in.
> 
> ...


I have used PVC tube with sandpaper glued to the inside half to sand objects, I think the toilet paper tube would be too flexible. But that is only my opinion, have not tried that.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

There is no Testors Seamless Glue so I assume he means liquid cement


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## -Hemi- (May 5, 2014)

Sorry for my late reply.... years ago, Testors "red tube" model glue "gel", was known as "Testors Seamless glue" As at the time, thats what its selling point, or "pitch" was. Today this glue, is the same thing, but how they used to advertise it, was Testors Seamless Glue.

The Testors liquid stuff, is terrible, I've never had luck with that single one Testors product, you want good "plastic welder"? Use Ambroid brand Plastic Welder OR Tenax 7r its about the same altho the Ambroid stuff, made in my home state is a bit stronger then the Tenax 7r brand of the same type glue.

The Testors Seamless glue was called or advertised as such due to its tendency to "melt" or slightly soften the edges of BOTH plastic surfaces applied to, when dry, it formed a seamless joint, and could be sanded as such! Its a WONDERFUL very light filler for this very reason, BUT to fill larger needs of amount, some sort of "filler" needs added to the glue gel itself.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I guess it pays to experiment. I do use Testors tube glue sometimes for very specific things but overall think it is about the worst general gluing glue. Actually I prefer Humbrol tube glue to the Testors red tube stuff.

I find Testors liquid cement to work fine. The stuff in a jar with a brush, not the crappy black needle tip applicator. That stuff is worthless.

The method described above for using the Testors tube glue is what I knew as dry gluing... you apply a bit of cement to both parts, let it soften the plastic a bit, then squeeze together. It was and still is effective for some joints.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

I've been using Testors non-toxic in the blue tube for years and have not had any problems with it. And if I remember correctly I even tried their liquid once upon a time and did not like it because it tends to dry too fast. 
The point is any glue or putty may work for some but not for all.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Back to the original topic... Perfect Plastic Putty sure sticks to vinyl. I used some to fill in some gaps in a Kaiyodo 1/350 Godzilla and the stuff was great. I just applied it out of the tube and worked it onto the model with a damp paint brush and it stuck like tar. The vinyl has a slight texture (not counting the texture of the model itself) and the PPP seems to like that a lot.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I still have some old tubes of Squadron putty but never use them anymore. The stuff does sand very well but shrinks for a long time after.

The Tamiya basic putty seems to apply as easily as Squadron but I have not had as much issue with shrinkage so that is my current model putty.

For larger gaps I use superglue and sprinkle some baking soda on it for an instant cure. As some folks mentioned, you have to sand this within a day or two because it gets too hard. Good news...no shrinkage!


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## -Hemi- (May 5, 2014)

I myself have the Testors "putty" (NOT the home made stuff) But the actual Gray tube Testors putty, and it is "thinned" I guess with alcohol, it seems to work well in some cases, and like any product, in somecases, work fine and in others not at all... HOWEVER, my question is on the Squadron putty, I have both red and green, and bears to ask, does it "thin" or re-wet much the same way as the Testors stuff, with Alcohol, or would Denatured Alcohol be better? OR not at all?

I know another trick, but some of you, I'm almost sure will have a serious time finding/getting it.. M.E.K. will soften plastic, and then rub a bit on the polastic to get it like "gum" and add some more M.E.K, then smear onto the area, you wish it to be, and then add just a little more M.E.K. and it will harden in place like the plastic surface your trying to "smooth" and will harden just the same as the part your "filling".

Another trick, is epoxy coating, NOT the epoxy "glue". The epoxy coating used on counter tops at say a diner........That really thick clear coat seen on booth tables tops, or the counter.....That epoxy coating, is a WONDERFUL filler too! It sticks to almost anything, (it has a slight sticking component to wax paper! The mix of the 2 parts cause heat, which is why....) But anyway, its a great filler and I've even used it to be a mold making filler. make a mold of a part, and used this epoxy coating to fill the cavity, allowed to dry, and you have a pretty much clear part!

AND it sands. But, not easily, so use little sand little use A LOT sand A LOT.....And most glues, stick to it unlike Resin!


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## gman223 (Feb 16, 2010)

-Hemi- said:


> HOWEVER, my question is on the Squadron putty, I have both red and green, and bears to ask, does it "thin" or re-wet much the same way as the Testors stuff, with Alcohol, or would Denatured Alcohol be better? OR not at all?



Not sure about alcohol, doubt it will work. I use nail polish remover with acetone(has to have the acetone to work) to thin the squadron stuff, also use nail polish remover to smooth out the putty. The nail polish remover does not hurt the plastic as straight acetone would. Also you have to hide the bottles of remover from wives.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Never saw Squadron red putty. The white and green can be thinned out with lacquer thinner or liquid plastic cement.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I have liquid plastic cement. I will try that with the white putty....


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## rja (Sep 4, 2010)

For large areas, or where re-profiling is necessary, Evercoat EuroSoft 2 part putty:

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=7

For very small areas or finishing glazing, Nitrostan lacquer based glazing putty:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/390815568400?lpid=82

You may have to mail order for one or both of these if you live in California. Otherwise try autobody repair/paint supply stores.


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## SfanGoch (May 28, 2011)

djnick66 said:


> Never saw Squadron red putty. The white and green can be thinned out with lacquer thinner or liquid plastic cement.


I remember it from back in the mid-late 1970s. It reminded me of Bondo.

I like to use Magic Sculpt. It fills in seams well and can be smoothed down with water. For solvents, try acrylic solvent (methylene chloride):










Plastruct sells it under the name of Bondene. Same stuff as Tenax 7 but twice as much for half the price (about six bucks for a 2 fl.oz. bottle). Plastruct also sells Weld-On, which is a M.E.K. solvent.


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## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

KUROK said:


> For larger gaps I use superglue and sprinkle some baking soda on it for an instant cure. As some folks mentioned, you have to sand this within a day or two because it gets too hard. Good news...no shrinkage!


Instead of baking soda, try mixing the superglue with talcum powder (the gypsum based stuff). The talcum powder doesn't heat up when mixed with cyanoacrylate glues, like baking soda does. It also produces fewer voids/bubbles.

The talc + CA "putty" is about the same hardness as styrene once it sets, which makes getting a smooth finish that feathers into the styrene a lot easier.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Back about 10 years ago I mixed some acrylic paint from a craft store with some flour to see if I could make some 'acrylic' type putty and when it hardened it got a bit too hard. Maybe I'll try it again some day. And the best thing is one can choose the color of the 'putty'.


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