# carb rebuild prob



## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

As Ive been posting,I got the walbro carb kit for my 24cc craftsman.I started the carb rebuild Monday(the day i got the carb kit).I took my time and meticulously cleaned and put it back together.I also put a new crank gasket in,with a new plug.Im getting great fire.
Now to the problem,im certain i put the carb back together the way it came apart.I poured a little fuel in the carb(new gas)and it runs great until the gas i poured into it runs out.Iam getting gas to the carb too from the fuel lines.However it seems to have the same problem,it will start n run great til the gas runs out that i prime with,So im back to square #1..Whats wrong with this piece o crap?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

What is the model number of your trimmer??


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

i havnt found the model number but the carb is a walbro wt-226.Since it starts til the prime runs out,its gotta be in the carb/fuel lines,i replaced them too and filter.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Well there are other possibilities, but since we don't have the trimmer model lets review your carburetor rebuild.

Did you replace the filter screen, inlet metering needle and arm??


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*rep*

I took all that apart and cleaned it,it seemed to be working proper.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

nightmoves44 said:


> I took all that apart and cleaned it,it seemed to be working proper.


What parts did you replace?


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

I am also curious about a scratched cylinder, because when you are pouring gas right down through the carb, the fuel will actually "fill in" those scratches and make it run until it burns the fuel off. The carb actually only spews out a "mist" of gas which isn't enough to "fill in" the scratches.

because if you put everything back together the way you took it apart, and as long as you replaced he major stuff, your carb work should be ok.

I'm also suggesting this because this summer, I have seen a lot of 2-stroke motors with scratched cylinders


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*kI*

I took the engine apart except for pulling out the piston and cleaned everything,cleaned,adjusted the magnito(getting great spark)Looking thru the exhaust port the piston was shiney.However the cylinder walls in the bottom half looked to have a thin carbon deposit along parts of the bottom half cylinder walls(normal wear?),if that makes sense.
Only thing is maybe i didnt get the diaphram/gaskets back right.I have a question,if you blow into the carb,input gas line .,should it be easy to blow thru?,or barely be able to blow thru,or just not able to blow thru at all.(the line going into the carb(gas input).

The only parts i actually replaced was a carb diaphram and carb gaskets,thats all the kit had.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

nightmoves44 said:


> Only thing is maybe i didnt get the diaphram/gaskets back right.I have a question,if you blow into the carb,input gas line .,should it be easy to blow thru?,or barely be able to blow thru,or just not able to blow thru at all.(the line going into the carb(gas input).
> 
> The only parts i actually replaced was a carb diaphram and carb gaskets,thats all the kit had.


No, you should not be able to blow through the carburetor fuel inlet. It takes about 10 - 12 lbs of pressure to unseat the inlet needle, and if the needle is bad it may be sticking. The tip of the needle has a coating on it to prevent it from sticking in the seat, it should appear dark gray or black, there should be no pink, yellow or red color on the tip at all. 

On the pump side of the carburetor the diaphragm goes on first, then the gasket and pump cover. On the metering side (side with needle) the gasket goes on first and then the diaphragm and cover.


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*k*

ok great.i was wondering.I really cant remember,but i believe the tip was yellowish.I had the carb put together right then...so its possible the needle is sticking.would that cause this problem?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

nightmoves44 said:


> ok great.i was wondering.I really cant remember,but i believe the tip was yellowish.I had the carb put together right then...so its possible the needle is sticking.would that cause this problem?


If the needle is sticking, it could require more pressure to open the needle and let fuel into the metering chamber. So to answer your question, yes if the needle is sticking the carburetor will not deliver any fuel to the engine.


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## dawgpile (Apr 28, 2008)

Just for the sake of clarity, you mentioned you replaced the fuel lines and the filter. While I'm assuming you meant the fuel filter, is that in fact the filter you replaced (as opposed to the air filter)?


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*update*

Today I let a buudy of mine look at the carb,he said the screw holding the needle valve was making it stick((the screw inside the carb holding the valve and lever and spring in place)).So,he put it back together and it ran pretty good(it didnt die out).I cant get it to idle tho,and went to cut some grass and it bogged down and died.So,its alot better than it was,but something still aint quite right.It only has a needle valve screw adj(outside carb)and a idle adj screw.So now its boggin down,plus will not idle....thats todays problem...its a walbro wa-226 carb.


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*hm*

After tinkering with it,it will run,but still acts like its trying to run out of gas,and dies if you try to let it idle...my friend put the gasket back different than you guys.he put both diaphram parts outer instead of 1 inner and 1 outer.It will not run at all the way you guys recomend.When i took the original gas lines off,they were backwards from what you guys recommend too,so im wondering if i should change them back,the big line to the fuel/filter,and small to the primer,right now they are the way your picture is.These things are tricky.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The way we stated are not recommendations, but rather the way to correctly assemble the parts. The size of the line does not really matter, you could use the large line to deliver fuel to the carburetor, you just need to make sure it's plugged into the correct fitting on the carburetor and has the fuel pickup filter attached to it. 

If the carburetor won't work with the diaphragms installed correctly then there is a problem with the metering needle, fulcrum arm or pin, or perhaps the metering lever is not adjusted properly.


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*carb*

thats good to know,the kit i got didnt have a new needle valve n stuff,maybe it needs a kit with that in it?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Thats why I always recommend a rebuild kit, rather then a diaphragm kit. Sometimes those parts will be alright, but most of the time if the diaphragms are old and stiff or worn out, then the inlet needle is old and the seat may be hard as well or all the parts will have wear. The parts are available independently, and a new needle may be all you need.


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*ty*

Like you said earlier,my needle has a pink tip,therefore its bad.how does one replace the metering rod if need be?..plus another question,my kit came with a small round seal(something like an Oring.Where does this go?,I didnt see one taking my carb apart?..and thank you all for helping me...ps I found the kit with the needle valve in it was 5bux plus ship( online thru the mail),thas less than i paid for the diaph kit at my local store,plus all the diaph and gaskets incl....i love tinkering with stuff like this.,im patient and meticulous so that helps...i would rebuild the engine if the parts were cheap enough just because i like doing it....24cc craftsman if sum1 knows where to get rings cheap!.Thanks to everyone and I love this forum!:thumbsup:


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

rings in general are normally pretty cheap

just goto www3.sears.com and type in your model number and look it up, it will give you a part number and a price

be weary though, the sears site has gotten VERY sluggish since they changed it a couple months ago


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

nightmoves44 said:


> how does one replace the metering rod if need be?..


I am not quite sure what you are referring to.



nightmoves44 said:


> plus another question,my kit came with a small round seal(something like an Oring.Where does this go?,I didnt see one taking my carb apart?.. .


The kits have parts for many variations of carburetors, so not all parts will be used in every carburetor. The little O-Ring usually goes on units that have a removable main jet.



nightmoves44 said:


> i would rebuild the engine if the parts were cheap enough just because i like doing it....24cc craftsman if sum1 knows where to get rings cheap!.Thanks to everyone and I love this forum!:thumbsup:


You will have to find the model number off of your trimmer, once you have that, then do like pyro suggested to find the part numbers. Once you have the part numbers you can go shopping for the parts, they are most likely "Poulan / Weedeater" parts, but could be some other brand as Sears uses several companies for their power products.


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

would you believe me 30year that a lot of craftsman/poulan/weedeater part number are the same thing for Jonsered AND some husky chainsaws?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

pyro_maniac69 said:


> would you believe me 30year that a lot of craftsman/poulan/weedeater part number are the same thing for Jonsered AND some husky chainsaws?


I can believe the Husqvarna part numbers, but I have never heard that Jonsered made any of their saws, I believe that some of the new ones are MTD/McCulloch units, and I know that even Echo has built for Sears in the past


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## nightmoves44 (Jun 11, 2008)

*done*

Ok,after getting it going but wouldnt idle and it ran but sorta boggin out,like wasnt gettin enuff gas,I took it apart again and blew it out with an air-hose real good,and adjusted the needle vavle so it would open further.I put it back together and it runs like a brand new weedwhacker,it will start easy,it will idle great and has all kids of power!!!!..Since I cleaned it all up in others posts,it looks like new too.I want to thank everyone for their valuable help.I doubt Id got it without your help,specially the fuel line route,cause originally it was wrong.I need to thank my neighbor for his help with the needle valve adj too.So a ten dollar kit and some time saved me a bundle.I tried it in high weeds and it didnt even slow down!..Thank You All.!!!


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