# Tlt 1 Mini Monster!!!!!



## Mr-Tamiya (Jan 24, 2002)

Hey guys and gals lets talk here about mods to your TLT 1 and what works and what doesnt!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Great idea! I love my little truck for a number of reasons.

First a question though: Mr. Tamiya, are you a Tamiya rep or just an interested fellow trucker? I would love to hear input from Tamiya as well as share info with anybody interested.

I see the TLT as the next Clod. It is already being put into stretched crawlers all over the place, both with and without the stock guts/wheels/chassis etc.

Personally, I ditched the stock chassis for a PSW chassis very early on. Now I wish I had waited. Although the PSW looks better it is even harder to get to the motor and pinion. In both cases removing the electronics plates seemed the only way to make space. With the PSW that meant dropping the axles as well to get to the unsecured nuts under those plates. Stupid!

I brought mine to Monster Jam this last summer on a whim, sporting a Stinger motor. Although it ran OK, after I got used to it's total tippyness on carpet, I was horribly underpowered compared to a couple of the other trucks. Everybody loved it though! We were surrounded by Clod/TXT/e-maxx drivers asking for turns. I was running the stock tires and the truck's 1/2" of clearance was also a killer as my lousy driving skills often put me on a sandbag where I would then sit, high cnetered, waiting a marshall to rescue me.  

I am currently designing a new chassis to make a 10" wheelbase truck using a Stampede tranny w/ locked diff. It will also hold a standard stick pack, mounted sideways for easy removal and therefor easy access to the motor!

I haven't seen the other Tamiya little truck yet but I hear some of the issues have been addressed.


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## Mr-Tamiya (Jan 24, 2002)

i also have the max climber they are both great! no I am not a Tamiya rep, I collect older tamiya vehicles and have been so nicknamed MR Tamiya because of my knowledge of the older cars, I agree its the next clod, the juggernaut was great but never caught on this is like a cross between the clod and jugg!!!! When you have pics of your chassis design shoot my way Iwould like to take a look!!! C ya round


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, I have TLT-1 axles on my truck, so I _guess_ it qualifies as one... :lol:

oh yeah, camera is at my dad's work, and he's not going back their untill monday, so ur gonna have to wait Chris :freak:


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

That's exactly what I mean about it being the next Clod! I mean, how many people actually have "real" clods? That truck in anemic at best, in stock form but the axles for an awesome base for any solid axle truck you want- as long as it is big! The TLT's axles will do the same thing but on a true 1:10 scale.

Spent more time last night trying to mock up my chassis. My kid pointed out that I HAD to make it so I could use a stock stick pack instead of a pair of 3 packs glued down. That was my old configuration and that was fine as long as you only wanted to run one pack. I am trying to make one out of masonite or something like it so I can try stuff out before I carve it out of aluminum. Actually I was thinking of finding someone who could do up a CAD drawng so I could send it out to a water-jet place to cut it. That would be very cool. My latest thought will have an oval hole up behind the Pede tranny that you can slide a stick pack into and hold it in place with...something. :lol:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, if you want to go all out with a chassis...
(Plays_with_Toys' milled TLT chassis)









or you can just wait. He is going to be milling a wee bit simpler chassis. here's the thread @ rccrawler about it
http://www.rccrawler.com/postt4000.html


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

One word: Wow. Still used the stock tranny though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yes and no. If you look close you can see the sides of the tranny are metal and there is a 3rd pully (tensioner, Im guessing). uses a 4-tec diff, too. motor is mounted VERY high though


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

meh, to lazy to edit. heres mine. yes, those are the stock tires; the glue on my cut&shut masher2000's is drying. no, no more pics till monday or tuesday; Im waiting for a camera I know how to actually use (had to have my sis help me)


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

With the lid on it, it is hard to tell what all you did. Obviously you stretched it and used Pede sliders. Is it still the stock tranny? Are those stock chassis plates? Gotta say those tires looks WAY small when used that way. Sort of like when I put M2K's on my Clod just for yucks. :freak: 

What's the wheelbase?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

pede tranny, "aftermarket" chassis plates (home depot), & the wheelbase is about 12"


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Nice. What is your chassis width? Did you keep the standard 2" or did you widen it? I am trying it narrow at first but I might go wider. Too many choices. Narrow is nice because it will let me use the stock link brackets for the upper links.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yeah, I used the link brackets for the upper links but the traxxas ball-ends are a bit to tight for them. they do; however, go on with enough force  chassis width is stock width, I just had to dremel down the pede tranny alot to get it to fit (which is ok because I bought one just for this project). 

once I get the camera, remind me to take a pic of my "custom" electronics plate. You dont get better paint masking if you sit around and think about doing it...


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Looks like the body is on backwards. Either that or the tires are..... Just a thought... Looks good. Get some pics with the bigger tires!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Yeah, and some lidless. :thumbsup:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

will that keep you off my back for a few days?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

No way man! We have fun waiting for cool pix! I like it! Did you do the cut and shut on the M2K's (that is what those tires are, right?) What rims did you use them on? Did you cut those down as well? Very nice!

So, after long consideration, I went and ordered a PP chassis! I just don't have the time to build up a whole chassis myself these days. At least not the way I would want it to look. I can and still may, finish up my chop job on the stock chassis just to see how it runs but I couldn't resist the PRP!

They were initially selling them assembled but now they come as kits. Same price!  I guess he always wanted them to be kits but the instructions weren't done so he just put them together to get them out the door.

Oh, and while I am at it Smojoe, how about a shot from the other side so we can see how the spur gear sticks out?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Nice Smoe! Looks so much better with the larger tires.

They look like HPI 5 spoke truck rims that have been narrowed to match the tires. 

Now I could get into a truck like that! The clod I had was fun but didn't trip my trigger when I realized the only thing the chassis was for was to tie the 2 axels together and hold the Body, battery, esc, & reciever. Having the motor on the chassis with shafts going out to the axels just seems more real. Like the suspension serves more of a purpose. (I know, I'm weird) Plus it seems a little more scale.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

No, that isn't weird at all! That is the reason people loved Juggy's and now love TXT's. The drive shafts to the axle are certainly closer to reality!

Yup, thosed narrowed tired definitely look cool! Might have to try that myself. I have yet to narrow rims or tires. I just assume I am going to screw them up and haven't been willing to sacrifice the material to try.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

pic stinks, but you should get the jist of it..


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

:thumbsup: That isn't nearly as much as I expected. The chassis mod I was owrking on, I cut a bigger hole so I could leave the spur gear cover from the Pede tranny. I never used the stock clear plastic cover on mine and have gottn buzzed more than once.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ChrisHarris said:


> Yup, thosed narrowed tired definitely look cool! Might have to try that myself. I have yet to narrow rims or tires. I just assume I am going to screw them up and haven't been willing to sacrifice the material to try.


 I used heavy-duty scissors to cut the tire and put a dremel cut-off wheel in my drill press to keep it at one height. you just spin it around to cut it. used IC-2000 to glue the wheels (worked wonders) and tires (not to good, which if kinda funny because the glue is MADE for rubber)


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I like the idea of the drill press/cut-off wheel. That sounds like it would work as well as a lathe could. It is the tires that worry me! If you don't get it cut straight, how in the world can you glue it back together? You must have taken a strip out of the middle right? On some tires there would be easy guides to follow but I don't see an easy way with the M2K's. Well done!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

actually, it was pretty easy. I cut where the thicker red lines are and took out the center (where all the smaller red lines are). glued it together and it worked pretty well..


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

'mon guys, where are your TLTs?

















The white stuff around the wheels is from the glue. I dont know how to get it off so its stayin in their untill I can figure out how..


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Looks like your glue oxidized a little, it's wierd, I had a set do the same once - I just left it alone.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, I don't have a lot of photos of my TLT. Yet. And none of them are on the web. Here is one from Monster Jam 5 this last summer, lining up to get my butt kicked!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

::shudders:: so little under-chassis clearance. Thats why my TLT only lasted a few hours befor I took it apart and started modding it.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I hear ya! I hadn't intended to race it that weekend. It went OK but they used sand bags to hold down the corners of the PVC pipe. The truck would get hung up on them when I screwed up. Just sit there with all four wheels in the air waiting for a marshal... I think the PRP chassis should take care of that!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ChrisHarris said:


> I think the PRP chassis should take care of that!


 Yeah, it should. I'm thinkin about re-doing the chassis (current side plated are steel) so I can get a little more articulation and have better triangulation. Im designing a RC hovercraft right now (dont ask how its going, I dont want to talk about it) so that I can build it over my winter break, so it might be awhile untill it gets done. Besides, the rocks are wet right now, so why should I finish it if I cant ever crawl..


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*?*

Chris, are you coming to the winter monster bash, and will you be running a prp chassis? I'm debating whether or not to keep my tlt stock (chassis-wise) for the next race. If everyone else is going to enlarge their trucks, I may have a go at it, or at least drop in a 12 turn 
-Brian


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I honestly don't think I can make it down there. It was such a huge drive last time and that was in the summer! I would love to come down and run Pede and TLT, leaving the Clods to those who can actually drive!

If I did/can/do come down though, it would be with the PRP chassis. I obviously haven't seen how it runs yet and it may be even tippier but at least it will have some clearance! 

12T? That would be a sight to see. I bet that could run with the Juggs and TXT's with that power! Could be fun to watch unless you got run over.  I will have to see how this runs with the PRP chassis and some wider offset wheels- probably front Pede rims to start wtih. I could see dropping my Fantom 14T handwound in there! On 7 or 8 cells? Scary fast for sure.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

12 turn? ouch! Hope you have a belt tensioner, 'cause your going to be skipping the belt with ease (i did with my 55t motor while barely going up a rock)

edit- oh, and befor you go and buy the PRP, take a look at this...








Guy is thinkin about makin those. 6061 aluminum, laser cut, estimated price around $25


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

That is a nice looking chassis but having been suckered into one cheap PSW chassis, I would be very hesitant about another one. I specifically asked Ben at PRP how the batts are held and how hard it is to get to the pinion and motor. Only with those answers was I willing to commit! And the PRP is just so darn sexy looking! All that G-10...

Also, how does one anchor a body on that chassis? It looks like you might have to use side posts, especially if you stretch to a 1/10 scale body!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Pretty sure you use the stock (or stock style) posts, judging by the holes at the top left and right of the chassis. I guess if you got your heart set on the PRP, I shouldnt try and convince you..


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*No problem*

I don't think a 12 turn will be a problem. I was running a 15 turn at the monster jam this summer and Tad was pulling away pretty easily with his 14 turn. I've run the daylights out of the truck with the 15 turn, more laps and jumps than I could count at Bradenville, along with lots of grass and dirt running here at the house. I run Traxxas slipper pegs in the center diff and keep it pretty snug, but it will give before anything else breaks.

Anyway, it would be nice to see Chris's prp in January, but long drives, January, and the Northeast are not a combination for happiness. If I get a job out of town, I may not be able to attend, so I'm pretty understanding when others don't make it.
-Brian


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Heart set on the PRP? I have already started to build it up! It came today!  

I sold off a bunch of goodies so I don't feel slightly bad about getting it. 

So far, I am very impressed. It will take some time to get it together just because there are a ton of parts. I need to talk to the guys at PRP about some stuff before I post my build-up too far and wide. Right on the instructions they say Beta version, etc. so many of my comments may be mute on later additions. The instructions, as far as they go are great but there is clearly some more that could be written.

My ONLY complaint so far is the finish on the aluminum stuff, or total lack thereof. One of the reasons it will take a while to build (other than needing to make 4 link suspension pieces) is that I decided to polish all the aluminum. It will look SO much better at first that I feel it is worth the effort.

The weather is supposed to suck around here for a couple days so maybe I can get it done soon!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

"git-r-done!" and take pictures! Weather around here is supposed to suck this weekend too.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I hereby pledge to ignore and neglet my family to accomplish the building task before the end of the weekend. If they let me.

I sent an e-mail to the PRP guys asking if they would like input from my build. I hope so as there are some simple things they could add to the kit and/or instructions that I have already come across that would really help. Like telling you what size allen wrenches you will need to get it done! Or maybe including them even. Now THAT would be very Tamiya like and that is a good thing. Luckily I had the ones I needed but I had to look hard for them. 

They also don't comment on using loctite. ALL of the screws go into metal and I would think loctiting all of them would make sense but they use this really sweet button head bolts that take tiny allen wrenches. I would worry that if you do loctite them you might not be able to loosen them without stripping the heads. Perhaps the fiberglass flexes enough that when you cinch the bolts down it will act like a lock washer and hold it tight.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

All the things you mention are thing expierienced hobbiests may look over when creating instructions, because they just come naturally to them. This kit you have probably isn't targeted to the inexpierienced hobbiest. Just a thought...... Don't get on them too hard about it!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Good point. They do state it is for the experienced hobbiest. That doesn't excuse the finish on the aluminum though.  I guess the point is that a simple note at the top of the instructions stating the tools required would take no space at all and would be a big help. I figured that since they were standard size bolts they would use standard hexes... The only driver of mine that worked was the 3/32".

Any thoughts on loctiting 4-40 nuts with TINY hex holes in terms of getting them off. They are even smaller than those on the XXX4 and other Losi trucks.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

No. I hates the dinky ones on the bottom of the XXX4, you can probably tell by looking at the ones on the bottom of the one you have! Dremel a slot!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, this isn't going as well as I hoped. The chassis is beautiful but I have run across a few...issues. Needless to say they have some revisions to do on their instructions and the bags they put the parts in. I find myself needing to rebuild one of the sections to add shock mounts where they belong. I wont go into details.

The BIGGEST problem though is that a Pede body will NOT fit on this. This chassis is huge. It is about 13" long but the problem is that it is almost 6" wide with the body poss at the outside. i also, at this point, do not know whether you can make this with as short a wheelbase as I had planned. i wanted a 10" WB to match the Pede body. I suspect Maxx bodies are at least a couple inches longer at the wheel wells. I happen to have an El Camino touring car lid sitting in the basement that will probably fit (and look awesome  but it sure would have been nice to know this before I had ordered it!

Stay tuned.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

cruddy muffins thats wide!! mine has a 12 1/2 inch wheelbase (just mesured it to make sure) and the maxx body, as you could see in the pics, looks great on it. plus, you can get "real" crawler bodies like broncho(sp?) and CJ8 and that other one I cant think of right now that HPI makes... RUBICON! thats it! wow, I am sad when I'm tired..

anyways, looks good, but get rid of those tires, FAST!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Ha! Yeah, on a truck this size those look as sily as Pede tires on a Clod! I will problby go with M2K's for now as I have several sets of those mounted on front pede rims.

I actually thought that those tires would look real scale w/ a Pede body if you could slam the lid but that aint happening with this chassis! I am still looking forward to seeing how it runs- just as a different truck I guess!

I am actually thinking about having two chassis- one long and big, the other less of a crawler- lower and faster. All I would need to do is swap the axles across if I did it right.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Stock Maxx body wheel wells center to center are 11 3/8 inch, axle to axle on a maxx is 12".

I just measured!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Great. Thanx for that info. I woudln't be getting a stock lid but they should be close. I think I will aim for just over 11"

Oh, and I was wrong. The biggest problem is that they didn't include the stand-offs for the tranny so i can't put the bloody thing together. I sent them an e-mail. I am sure they will fix that but that adds a week.


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*maxx bodies*

Hey Chris, I wouldn't sweat the looks of a maxx body on pede wheels and tires. I've got a cross country chassis with a maxx body and buggy rear tires that looks really scale. Pede tires and rims will look like a really jacked up scale ride. I'll get a pic of the xc to you if I have a chance this weekend.
-Brian


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Cool. Thanx!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

smojoe
you chassis looks nice!

chris sorry to hear about the issues with the prp chassis. 

and for those running a stock tranny vertigo is going to be selling a venter diff locker with outputs for taxxas yokes.

have no web space to host my own pics here, but there is a few at one18th.com


i will post the link to my ongoing thread with pics from the build to all the mods.

but here is a bio of the tlts:
my tlt-1
penguin p2300 chassis with extra servo mount
about a inch stretch
hpi dog bones
hpi F5 rims with imex claw dogs
19x2 element motor
big bore shocks

my son's truck:
tlt-10
monstertec chassis(waste of cash)
t-maxx links 106 and 116mm
cut pede tires
big bore shocks
titan motor
12" axle wheele base


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, I expect to hear back from PRP today some time. I hope they can rush those parts out. I got much of the rest done over the weekend but I killed my link jig  . It isn't much but it worked! It is a 3/8" thick slab of aluminum with a 1/4" hole drilled through it. I then cut a slot to the hole and tapped it for a 4-40 bolt. I slide the link in and clamp it down so I can hold it in the drill press. Worked great until I twisted off the darn bolt. I will bring it in and repeat...

Looks like about an 11.2" wheelbase right now. I will have to see for sure when I get all the links on. I did find that a Proline F-150 Pede body would fit but the bod posts would be out at the corners of the body. Not great looking or strong. The El Camino should look AWESOME though!

Gearing question for one and all. The pede tranny, the 272, has a 2.72 gear reduction. From there, on a Pede, one turn of the diff outdrive turns the rear wheels once. Right? On the TLT, the diff outdrive turns three times to turn the wheels once because of the front and rear diffs. My question: Can I get this puppy geared high enough for Pede-like speeds? Seems to me I would need to increase the gearing 3X! That is pretty tall. I suspect I can do it with touring car spurs and pinions but I want to stay at 48 pitch for strength. Does anybody know what the smallest spur and largest pinions would be? I have a 78/23 right now but that is only half way to the goal.

Hope all had a grand weekend. The Christmas insanity is setting in around here. At least the island of serenity known as work still exists! :freak:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

ChrisHarris said:


> Does anybody know what the smallest spur and largest pinions would be? I have a 78/23 right now but that is only half way to the goal.


Smallest 48 pitch spur I've seen is a 72 I believe. Pinions can go up into the low 30s. You just need to keep in mind how much adjusting room you have on the motor plate to accomodate what gears.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Yeah well, I guess I will have to wait until I get the tranny built to find THAT out. The smaller the spur the larger the pinion to a certain extent I guess. The Pinion will grow much faster than the spur will shrink.


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## Mr-Tamiya (Jan 24, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Smallest 48 pitch spur I've seen is a 72 I believe. Pinions can go up into the low 30s. You just need to keep in mind how much adjusting room you have on the motor plate to accomodate what gears.


Robinson racing products makes a 70 tooth 48pitch spur for the TC3 that will work, That I believe is the smallest.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, most of the truck is together! I still need at least one different shock. I have one of a set of four that is junk but it looks OK for the first photos. The PRP went together pretty darn well once I had all the parts. I don't have the tranny in at the moment, still deciding on a motor. It will be geared for speed initially. It is pretty narrow but with the same wheelbase as the Pede. I suspect it will be very tippy! :lol: 

I put up a cople shots on the Stampede page for now. This wont be the lid I run, it just happened to sort of fit, squeezed over the chassis. I took lots of other shots and will try to get something written up. Need to figure out a way to post it on the web... Like I need more things to do right now...


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Here we go! Finally go some shots up on the web with lots more to follow! 










At this point, all I need to do is drop in a motor in the tranny and then four bolts to put that in place! I am still at that point... Maybe tonight!


And here is one with my old Clod lid- which wont work- too small


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

chris it looks good. 

over at one18th there are some links and pics of plays_with_toys chassis in the proto type stage, and a link to pics for the rockraoder tlt chassis with emial info from the creator.

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?p=114747#post114747


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Chris-
Is the batter holder hinged at the top or something? I cant see how you could fit it in if it wasnt. also, how much articulation do you get with that setup?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Both sides of the battery holder are hinged. You loosen the bolt and they swing up out of the way.

Just finished the write-up on the build. Couldn't get it to open as a webpage but I have it so you can download it here . I will warn you- it is long! At least as a download you can walk away. :lol: 

I'd appreciate any comments!


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

I could not get it to come up Chris. Got the page but not your info.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

phooey. I will try again. I will send it to you directly though.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Try it again.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

1.6 MB? heh, not on my net connection. I'll download it tonight while I'm watchin TV


edit- read it. Good job! truckloads better then what I could have done (I can read instructions, not write them)


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Thanks! I did warn ya about the size!  And that was with the pix all web sized!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Your link worked for me Chris, I like the review. I'm real suprised you didn't put a locked Pede diff in it from the get go! As for the fuel tubing battery cushion not staying on, "shoe goo" or "automotive goop" is your friend!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

LOL! Tom, that was a complete brainfart! I had one in the other TLT project that is stuffed with ultra thick stuff and I just grabbed the wrong one! I had two Pede trannies, and I dissected the wrong one.  The frustrating thing is that to pull the diff and swap it is as non-trivial as pulling the tranny. I think I will take off the outdrives and leave them behind. They have to come off anyway! I think that should make it easier. We have snow now so I wont get much chance to drive it for a little while at least.

hmm. I might actually be able to pull the diff with everything in place! Drop one axle maybe. Just need to find the time.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Here is a pic of that chassis Plays_with_toys is making. one, maybe two screws to swap battery and four screws to pull the pede tranny out. ::drool::










edit. here is closeup.. http://img139.exs.cx/img139/9716/img05816ss.jpg


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

drool indeed! I wonder what that looks like with a lid on it, and what lid he runs. The front and rear posts seem real close together for a full size lid.

Very clean design with the weight real low! Nice. Interesting how he has the motor runing towards the batery. I would have thought he would go the other way to move some weight forward.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

he runs a cut f-150 body on it. 

it is a solid tenth scale rig with that chassis, but you can go longer too.

i will let you know when i get mine.
rccrawler.com in the small crawler section has more pics and over at rcmt.net


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ronbeck said:


> i will let you know when i get mine.


 can you remind me when he starts selling them? I go onto RCCF every day it seems but allways forget to check that thread.

edit- chris, the battery _is_ mounted in the front.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i will. 
i should be getting a proto type. so i hope soon....


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Yeah, I found his post on RCMT. Very nice. It gives me all sorts of ideas! 

Smoe, you asked about articulation on my PRP? With the shocks in their low position there I get a wheel about 4" up. Not a lot. Raising the chassis should increase that quite a bit. You do run into the outside plates of the chassis though.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ronbeck said:


> i will.
> i should be getting a proto type. so i hope soon....


 I think he said early January (not sure). I was hopeing to have my TLT crawling again by the 25th because the 26th I'm going up the to mountains where my grandparents live. Rock and steep incline galore!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

my plays with toys chassis should ship monday. i will be doing a build up and test thread over at one18th.com 

just a fyi for those who are interested.

peter


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

So, you will have it built by Tuesday, right? Waiting...

I have (for the moment) decided that my PRP chassised TLT will indeed be a crawler. I plan to buy another TLT and make it into a stretched basher beast using the stock tranny but with a custom chassis. I like PWT's chassis but I think I can come up with something that will be a better basher. The TLT tranny only has a 2.13 gear reduction as compared to the Pede tranny at 2.72. In theory that allows a 27% higher gearing right there and that should add some zip! right now, with my 14 turn motor I am sure I am way under geared. It is not like I was puling wheelies. No, I can't say that! I have no idea what it will do since it has been snowy since I locked that sily center diff. I had lousy acceleration and speed with it open as the front end would lift a bit and one tire would balloon. I think I need to go and try that as the road is dry right now! :wave:


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

OK, that is just the tippiest little thing I have ever flipped reatedly!  That is what bodies are for, right?

It is quicker off the line, for sure. I dont think the top end is any different. Interesting though is the hard pull to the left when braking and even when off throttle. It runs straight but then veers when you back off. No idea what that is about. yet. Without a doubt the M2Ks do not help on the pavement in front of my house. Even Pedes flip there if threated rashly.

Again, I think a crawler for sure. Need to paint the El Camino!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

sounds like fun!

i am having a hard tiem waiting for the pwt chassis. and my truck is just the axles and links sitting on my hobby table. my chassis and 7 cell batt i s at a friends getting sanded and sealed and the batt recomfiged. going for 4 cells in ront in square and three in the back shaped like a triangle. to help with climbing and bashing.

have new stick pack to put a new commector on and run the mini cooper and staduim trucks!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, got paint on the El Camino last night. I hate whomever made that lid! I must have gotten it cheap to go away from Proline! I remember wanting the El Camino but it has been so long I don't remember whose it was. Parma, perhaps. No overspray, thin lexan, mold stains everywhere so the windows look lousy. I need to touch up a couple places where the paint didn't stick either! And I did the full stnadard prep. who knows. It WILL look really sweet though. I wanted to give it a day before I cut it out so I will post shots ont he chassis tonight.

I see now that the PWT will SHIP Monday. I guess there isn't much chance of a build by Tuesday. still waiting Peter...


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i will let everyone know when i get it. going to round up al lmy parts today, and have to switch rear axles with scott's truck. broke the mounts on the axles for the rear steering lock out....i only know of the el camino made by hpi?? i hate bodies like that!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Here's a shot of the El Camino lid in it's present state.









Jess thinks I should have a firetruck theme. Wonder why...  

As you can see, it is sitting on the body posts and it already doesn't have room to flex. I either have to put larger posts on (easy enough, I guess), or hack at those tiny little wheel wells until they behave!

Oh, and it isn't a jeep! That is a good thing! (but it is a Parma).


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i say cut it uP!

lol

i forgot about that el camino by parma.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I was thinking of doubling the wheelwell size and losing the bumpers for starters! Oh, I guess I will have to put some body post holes in too.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I was thinking it was a Parma El Camino when you said no protective film. I think I like HPI's El Camino better, maybe because theirs is an older model, yours looks like a late 70's early 80's version.

I would enlarge the wheel openings for sure, unsure about the bumpers because you got them the same color. Cut the wheel wells & body posts & go from there, you may have to cut the front bumper for wheel travel if you make this a crawler, the rear should be fine.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I think that when I ordered it I expected the HPI, older model. I was less than impressed with the squared off look of this one. I like the old more rounded ones.

I will hack and post! I started playing with photoshop late last night to see what it would look like and ended up getting to bed way later than planned! 

The trouble, as with the Pede is the width of the body. It over hangs the wheels so you really need to clear it. As a crawler though, a bit of rub wont kill me. Heck, the wheels rub the chassis as it is.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

How about this?


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Looks good Chris! Now go out and give it some rock rash!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

much nicer now!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Come on guys. You need more sleep! Don't you recognize Photoshop when you see it?

This is the real one. I promise!









I may still take a bit more off the rear as the tires still hit the back of the wheel well. The body isn't very well trimmed yet either.

I have no idea what is up with this body but the darn paint just isn't sticking. This was fun but it wont last long! My airbrush was acting up badly and that have had something to do with it.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Looks pretty good Chris, but I would so the wheel openings more like your photoshopped one.

Not a bad photoshop either, but you cut off your front steering in it!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Front steering is for wimps! I was sure somebody would notice that. It was hidden by the pumper and I couldn't figure out (at midnight) how to duplicate what wasn't visable in the first place!

I will probably open the rear wells up some more. That was really just a first hack at it. You can actually see the marker line I put down as a guide at the back, I just didn't go quite that far. I thought the sloped up rear was too reminscent of the Proline F-150 Pede body. Might not care when i look at it again!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

you bum, you got me!

but the pwt chassis just got into my hands. 
will start the build up after dinner, have to wait for the digital camera batts to charge.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well here are pics and a link tot he original rccrawler thread on the plays_with_toys TSC-10 chassis:

okay here we go with the pics.

the first is my tranny/shocks/axles









here is what was shipped









here is the colar that needs to be removed from the traxxas yoke









here is how she is shapping up









where i had to dremel a small amount of the tranny case for chassis clearance


























getting there











































and that is about the jist of it all. even with this truck being the original proto type it wen together better then my monster tec CF chassis i have. the thickness of the chassis rail is nice. thick but not over kill. 

first run pics report tomarrow noon-ish(my time )
http://rccrawler.com/postp49470.html#49470


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Wow, that really was fast! Not much to it I guess when compared with the PRP with all it's dozens of pieces. There is a lot to say for K.I.S.S.

Look forward to seeing how it runs!

My ONLY comment? Ya should have polished up those side plates before you got started!  :thumbsup:


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Wow, that was quick! When I first opened the thread this morning and the pics started loading randomly I thought "Wow! Someones truck exploded!" :lol:

Looks good & I too will wait & hear about the 1st run.

The only thing I wondered about is the upper axle links, all the current trucks seem to have the link ends close together on the axle side and spread apart on the chassis side. The set up with that chassis looks backwards of that, like old school 4 link I had on my old Clod.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

the top links are anged either at the axle or chassis, this setup is close to stock and i use a version of this on the other tlt-10 we have. it works well for what i do(for now).

this truck is the original proto and will be sent back 

thanks for the comments!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

ronbeck said:


> this truck is the original proto and will be sent back


 Huh? So you are building it but not keeping it? I don't understand.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

ChrisHarris said:


> Huh? So you are building it but not keeping it? I don't understand.


Ditto.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Ditto.


I will be getting one of the production units when finished. i am running the truck to give toys my opinion on the chassis. he is more of a crawler and i am more of a monster jam basher witha little rock crawling mixed in.
this is very simular in what i did for brion at penguin RC for the p2300 chassis. i have time, a digital camera, and i love to run my trucks and can have a unbiassed opinion.


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## nascarfan (Jan 22, 2004)

Hello all,

I just got a TLT and all I can say is WoW these trucks are a blast to drive. I run a Novak Reactor esc with a Atomic Force 17x2 in it with 2.2 Orion Meathook tires on Ofna VERY DEEP wheels an it does alright bur I thought it would be faster. I was wandering if anyone has switched to 48 pitch gears? They should work right? Chris I have seen your TLT and it looks great, how does it perform? Robneck thats a sweet looking set up, I'm thinking about the tlt chassis from Toy, I would like to hear what you think of it. From what you posted our driving styles are alike bash/crawl. I posted a pic I hope it works.

Peter


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

nascarfan- Actually since I built the PRP there has been snow on the ground so I haven't gotten it out for more than romp or two. No crawling at all. Actually my axle diffs aren't locked yet so crawling will wait.

As I said earlier, it is still way tippy.  I am running M2K tires and was on pavement where they have way too much traction. I suspect that on dirt where there is more slip it will handle really well.

There is no reason I can think of not to use regular 48 pitch gears. In fact, the tamiya gears ARE 48 pitch but with a slightly different angle I guess so they don't mesh really well.

When I ran my TLT down at Monster Jam last summer there were a couple guys there with >13 turn motors in them and they screamed! I was very impressed with their speed. And how well they drove them. Clearly much of my problem is that I suck driving. Too heavy a hand on the wheel.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

the tamiya gears are 48 pitch metric. when you change the gears out you will have to get a 90+ tooth spur, just so you can use different tooth count pinions. for general bashing fun i ran 90s 25p. but i suggest a robinson racing 93t spur. gives you more adjustability. 

in the the long wheel base truck based on the poor quality monster tec chassis i ran 93/25 and a titan on seven cells, was very quick just not to fast.

welcome

and i love the TSC-1 chassis. it is alloy like stock no worries about the CF splitting.


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## nascarfan (Jan 22, 2004)

Thanks guys, I guess it's time to get new brushes and a com cut on the D4 13 turnHE HE HE. Hopefully I will stretch in the near future. Hey Chris your not alone on the sorry driving, I have ran 2 batteries in it an it has spent a lot of time on it's top.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, the natural stance of a TLT, as far as I can tell is belly up! :freak: 

You do get used to it's high center of gravity. There are folk out there that can make them fly! I could not believe how often I got lapped at MJ this summer.  . I heard that one of the guys was going to put the Novak brushless into his for this weekends race! I just got the results and he ONLY came in second. You would have to understand how good a driver he is to understand how bad that is! I wonder what the winner was driving...


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

driving a BL tlt is insane. one of the guys i race with has a novak SS 5800 system in his. the no motor matenance is cool, but the thing is total out of control with half-full throttle. he ended up buying a new era wheelie bar to help keep the truck of it lid.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Yeah, Jay had made a whllie bar before he went to the race! Since it was carpet it didn't need to be huge- he flipped the rear bumper somehow and added some bushinngs. Looked pretty cool from the photos. Don't know how it worked though.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i saw one like that at one18. i only had wheelie issues for a short time. i had the penguin RC front axle servo mount for the Rws. acted like a wheelie bar.


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*brushless*

Now what in the world could beat a brushless TLT? On a tight track, less is more, lol. Thank God JAy took the four wheel steering off the truck before he ran the brushless. I ahevn't checked them out for breakage yet (the brushless and winning trucks were both mine), but I did break the front right drive cup on mine during the first heat. I still managed 14 laps, and I was running the same 15 double that I ran at the summer monster jam. The track was considerably tighter than at the summer race, IMO, but I'll run this motor and gearing combo until somone whips me with something else... then I might have to clean my motor, LOL.

A set of claw dawgs and that Tobee-craft long wheelbase kit may be in store for the brushless set-up. That would be a serious racin machine 
-Brian


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

BDKesling said:


> Now what in the world could beat a brushless TLT? On a tight track, less is more, lol. Thank God JAy took the four wheel steering off the truck before he ran the brushless. I ahevn't checked them out for breakage yet (the brushless and winning trucks were both mine), but I did break the front right drive cup on mine during the first heat. I still managed 14 laps, and I was running the same 15 double that I ran at the summer monster jam. The track was considerably tighter than at the summer race, IMO, but I'll run this motor and gearing combo until somone whips me with something else... then I might have to clean my motor, LOL.
> 
> A set of claw dawgs and that Tobee-craft long wheelbase kit may be in store for the brushless set-up. That would be a serious racin machine
> -Brian


that is what the BL tlt had for a set up when i drove it last. the owner has cought the long wheel base need from his friends but do you know if anyone got any video of the races?? sounds like fun. and congrates on the finish


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Brian,
Tighter than this summer? OMG! Not from a TLT point of view, but from a Clod point of view. I was having steering issues but even when I wasn't it was tough to make the corners.

As always, it is my driving that sucks and I was always flipping on the carpet. Both you and JAy are such good drivers that you know how much to slow it down in the corners. As for brushelss? Other than the big straight, how much could it help?


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*trucks*

Thanks for the congrats Ron. I know there were several people taking videos of the races, but I don't know if anyone taped the tlt races. I imagine they were pretty boring to watch with only 3 trucks.

Hey Chris, I was having steering issues with my twin force, but yeah, the track was REALLY tight for the big trucks. I also can't take too much credit for the tlt win. The truck itself handles like it's on rails, all I did was drive. The brushless tlt was wy faster, but the "long" straight was only 2/3 of the total track length. Anytime Jay would get close, there would be a turn and he went rolling, lol. We actually switched controllers about 1 minute into the second heat and he was smoking me with the nonbrushless. 

I think the other tlt (the one that wasn't mine, lol) was running a 15 turn motor and it was considerably faster than mine, but the suspension was too stiff and it was on it's lid in every other turn.
-Brian


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

BD,

what is your current setup? 
i am buying the tobee set secound hand to re-build a indoor monster and a bit of a speed demon. but no 15t motors. was thinking maybe a 17x2. you know something cheap thanks


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Yeah, what rubber were you running? I currently have M2K's on my PRP but I had to take them off the front of the Pede at MJ to keep it off it's lid. I can't imagine using them on the TLT on carpet.


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*stock*

I'm running the truck pretty close to stock. Full bearings, futaba stock steering servo, gm v6r (or v4r, I can't remember), center diff locked with traxxas pegs, light oil in the shocks (20 or 25wt), and stock wheels and tires. 

The light oil makes a big difference, my truck really leans into the turns and allows for more speed to be carried through. The other trucks I've seen with handling trouble had much stiffer suspension and on the high traction carpet, they roll as soon as the wheels are turned. If I were going to modify it to run faster at rcavenue, I'd go with the tobee craft and claw dogs. Stock pede tires are the hot ticket for that carpet, but they're so darned heavy that I think there would be a lot more driveline breakage. Wild Willy 2 rims and tires are another great option from what I've heard.

Gearing is the stock spur with a 21 tooth pinion. I get about 25 minutes of runtime on the stock 1700 pack, so I think I could gear up another 3 teeth on the pinion. At the end of 25 minutes running, the motor is room temperature.
-Brian


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

What exactly is the Tobee Craft kit?


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

*tobee*

It's a kit that I've seen on ebay (Jason's Ebay store, I think). It extends the wheelbase by an inch, comes with 8 links and 2 driveshafts, all anodized blue. It's a nice looking kit. I'm thinking of getting one and running a midnight pumpkin body on a tlt.
-Brian


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## BDKesling (Sep 25, 2001)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44022&item=5948726422
There's a link to the kit on eBay







... he also has a track widening kit.
-Brian


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

just a fyi on th etobee cvds! they have a issue holding the set screw in place. ho502cid at rcmt has gone through 4 set screws. and the only place to get replacements is tobee. they are not exspensive but take two weeks to get them. i pland to run slidders instead of the cvds, i have a 4tec diff to mod for one tlt.

and vertigo has a new tlt locker that will bolt the traxxas slidders right on.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

ronbeck said:


> and vertigo has a new tlt locker that will bolt the traxxas slidders right on.


 Got a link for that? I figure I can make my own links and would prefer to use sliders. 

Is one inch longer enough to mae a big difference?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Never mind. found it! 

Just got an e-mail from them explaining why the price was only $25. It seems they miss machined it so the shafts are .05mm too large for the yokes to fit on, requiring modifications to the "U joint". That seems like an awfully small mismatch! I would think you could just jam the plastic ones right over that. Thoughts?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i read a post thet the metal yokes fit with no mods at one18th.com i know two people who have built the units with little to no mods to the outputs. i will email my friend an ask if he had to mod it for the plastic yokes, and i do think they are worththe $25. but i have a outcast rc one off spool, and spent $30+ for 4tec diff parts to mod it to work. or i would buy one.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well here is the update on the locker. ho502cid from rcmt modded the yoke and not the locker.

hope this helps chris


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Sounds good enough for me! Especially since I have a set of the steel outdrives. I want this for my "other" TLT. Of course I don't have anything but the tranny at this point but I have dreams! I envision a low chassis, holding the stock tranny with the battery mounted sideways behind the motor, just above the upper links. This should get the CG down quite a bit. I think i will make it out of wood first, just to see if it fits together. Having a scroll saw makes me want to create exoticly shaped goodies!

This is all dependent on my finishing about a zillion house project first, of course.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

> This is all dependent on my finishing about a zillion house project first, of course.


 i just have to keep moving or i lose my train of thought. i have to hunt down another rock crawling area. the improvements they made to the baseball feilds leveled the whole area.......:drunk: it would be nice in the winter for a mud bogg but not much beyond that.


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## slo1 (Apr 2, 2003)

I just put a vertigo locker in my tlt tonight and all i did was file a flat on the shaft and slide on the yoke so now there are 2 flatsfor set screws.
I have also seen where people have had trouble assembling the pede sliders the pin will press out of the u-joint and can be pressed back in through the yoke then you don't weaken the yoke. 
now just to figure out the link lengths :thumbsup:


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Slo, thanx for the input! Not sure whether people have been getting the "good" Vertigo lockers or this bad run. I am pretty sure I can make it fit and work. As for the links? heck, I still have to design the chassis!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

welcome slo1!

what is your current set up?


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## slo1 (Apr 2, 2003)

Right now I am running a stock motor, m-tronics prodigi esc,6cell 3300 batt,
novak xl reciever with 4ws controlling it by a futaba 3ch pcm radio from my racing vehicles.
The chassis is stock for now and I am stretching the links but I cant decide how far to go. The wheel base will only be 9" so far but i don't know if i want to cut the sliders.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

just a update or two. the TSC-10 chassis will be sent back early next week for final prep before cnc milling or the production units. for those who want to know i did a test fit of a emaxx tranny and it will fit inside the chassis rails and i will take some pics of how it sits when the tear down begins.

moster jam this weekend with the family was fun.  

we did the pit party. but no Denis Anderson in the new digger. mice guy driving digger 15 though. signed two autographs and pics with the kids. 

but if their are any pics you wan tto see of the tsc-10 and haven't yet post here andi will do my best


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well i have been having fun with the TSC-1 chassis truck. no real rock crawling(my spot has been leveled out!) but lots of man made obsticles. the chassis makes the truck feel truely huge. 

we have one tlt-10 built based on the monster tec(pos) chassis, the Wb difference betweene the tsc-10 and the tlt-10 is about 1 inch. not much. booth trucks were run with cut pede tires with and without inet rc clod wheel wideners and claw dogs by imex. 

the tlt-10 is fun and more capible in the out doors then a stock tlt. it was fun to build tweek and run. 

the TCS-10 is is a whole new beast. it could do things that the tlt-10 could only do with perfect drive angles and the aid of the extended wheel hexes. even with the batt mounted in the front the truck feels ballance and stable.


have done a lot of bash and crash. and the damage report is a axle shaft and a stripped yoke mount on the pede tranny. and that is not bad since i was in total carnage mode with this truck. 

am very impressed with the simplicity and durability of this chassis. it in it's self is like the tlts axles. a very solid base to run as is, or a mad od'ers starting point. i have tweeked changed, bashed and broke my truck(s) in all it's phases and not one inpresses me as much as the TSC-10.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

That certainly is high praise! Can you put a finger on what about the chassis is ptting that huge smile on your face?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i think the simplicity of it, no special battery packs. the fact it's alloy(truck got knocked off my kitchen counter and it didn't phase it) and not cf/g10 for long term durability. what this chassis does it takes all the micro out of the truck. it is one of those things that has "it". like a pro athlete, what ever it is it has IT. hope that makes sense. 

i like RCs that have flexability. this thing can crawl, play in the mud, run, jump or what ever you want to set up for. and their is no compromise. 

if you have anymore questions just ask.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

OKay, one more question: What is the flight velocity of an unladen swallow?

never mind. It is Friday and my mind is toast.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

ChrisHarris said:


> OKay, one more question: What is the flight velocity of an unladen swallow?
> 
> never mind. It is Friday and my mind is toast.


LOL



have a nice weekend all!


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

ChrisHarris said:


> OKay, one more question: What is the flight velocity of an unladen swallow?


9.258 fps.

Anything else?:freak:


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Would that be for an African or a European Swallow?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, I figured I had better get out and play a bit before the snows hit. Wrapped up my ESC and receiver iin plastic, charged a batt and headed out the door.

The truck ran great for a couple minutes until a drive shaft popped off but by that point it was pretty much a snowball anyway!

This is when I had just begun to frolic,









This was after Jesse got done with it!









Brought it in and blew it off with the air gun. Finally decided to melt off the snow with a hair dryer and THEN blow it dry. Lots of water in the basement now!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

> Lots of water in the basement now!


 at least you know were it all came from!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

LOL! So true! I hate going down there and wondering why we have puddles! We got 4" more snow over dinner. They are saying 18-24" by the time it is done...


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

12" and still going strong...


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## Bill (Oct 18, 2002)

Things sound bad back there. You doing OK?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

All taken care of! I will have to get a shot of my car now that it is dug out! Don't want to go into any low ceiling garages!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

any updates on anybodies trucks?

plays with toys got the prot type back friday. 
will post when the production units ship.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Hey all! I saw an ad on RCMT for a TLT that looks pretty sweet. I was really just looking for a ser off axles to do up with my stockish chassis (although it would have the locker and sliders). Came across:
Tamiya graphite chassis
Hitec 645mg high torque servo
locked centre diff with traxxas slipper pegs
proline tires
hpi rims
penguin r/c servo mount, not installed
sport tuned stock tamiya motor
tobee craft wheelbase kit
tobee craft wheel widener kit
not quite full bearings, there are some bearings in the hubs.
includes original tires/rims

I'm looking to get $200

The pix look nice. I like all the blue in the Tobee stuff. What do you think?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

the price is good, the tamiya chassis is just a look pretty upgrade, and the tobee stuff scratches easy. but i think you could sell off what you don't want. the tobee wheel wideners are very nice and work very well. 

if you got the cash go for it!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

What would the Tobee wideners and long wheelbase stuff cost? I already know of somebody who spoke up about the guy parting it out.


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## bigbadstu (Jun 3, 2003)

*Belt Drive Durability?*

hey all,

just got my TLT-10 project finished (until more mods) and was wondering about the durability of the belt drive unit. i installed a tensioner to improve belt contact so slipping won't be an issue.

BUT, with 13/96 gearing on a Titan w/ 6 cells, i'm wondering how long til this thing grenades. it pulls like crazy and has way too much torque (in other words, just enough). so, how much abuse can the belt take? or should i just put in a Stealth trans and be done with it?

pics later, i promise


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i ran a titan on 7cells(93s,20p) for many months in one truck. the biggest killer for the belts is hardcore crawling. if your going to bash i would say 6 months atleast. maybe more.


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## bigbadstu (Jun 3, 2003)

*TLT-10 crawler*

well here it is in all its glory. i did the usual T-Maxx turnbuckles, extended the drive shafts with 3/16 brake line, locked all 3 diffs, gave it 4ws and made a nifty 4+2 battery pack that fits under the front deck. 4 on top and 2 underneath. Evader rear shocks all around. as you can see it has enough articulation. now all i need is some decent weather.

tell me what ya think


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

truck looks good!

you will have to give us a report of how it does.

nice to have some traffic here again.:dude:


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, looks like Im going to have to break out the TLT again. carpet season isnt over yet, but I have two weeks off from school soon, so that should give me some time to work on it. would anyone here happen to have a CAD drawing of PWT's chassis? I was going to buy one but realized I wanted my electronics set-up different.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

joe,

hit pwt at rccrawler.com

but how do you want your electronics mounted?

i tested it. and mounted my rx on the secound batts crossmembers. theri are a tone of pics in his tsc-10 outsider testing thread in the small scale area


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Side by side battery mounts. I have six 3300mAH side by side packs and I sure dont want to have to buy a few stick packs for my crawler. That, and I can make the chassis myself; the only cost being the aluminum plate (which I already have from a previous project)


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Yeah, I wondered about the stick pack requirement as well but when you are talking new chassis etc., grabbing a couple low end stick packs really didn't seem like that big an extra expense. If you are crawling do you even care how good your pack is? I don't know. I wouldn't think so.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i am going to try and stack on of my penguin tlt batts between the frame. but i don't know about the drawings. you would have to ask pwt. i was thinking of making one out of CF..for that cool factor.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

ChrisHarris said:


> If you are crawling do you even care how good your pack is? I don't know. I wouldn't think so.


 Yeah, I guess you are right. I didnt want to have to run to the car/backpack/house everytime a battery went dead. I also didnt want another RC that I didnt make the most parts for myself. Not many people can say "yeah, I custom machined the chassis and link mounts and spent a few hours making custom tires" when it comes to their RC car. Plus PWT is no longer taking orders, so I guess I gotta make it myself :freak:


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

he may have few extra, but is also thinking about a secound run. over at rccrawler.com their is talk of a tlt chassis shoot out. the bulu2, TSC-10 and a few others are going to be tested head to head by the colorado guys. so if it does well i think he will produce more.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I can totally relate to the homebuilt thing! My TLT hasn't gotten that treatement but I have scratch built several Clods and there is a definite satisfaction knowing it is all yours. In fact, I woke this morning thinking about a new Clod crawler. Sold off the last one for way less than I should and I came across my spare set of axles yesterday. The creative juices are flowing. Unfortunately most of my creating has been done at work in the machine shop and work has been insanely busy these last months so I have no idea where I would find the time.


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## bigbadstu (Jun 3, 2003)

*New Pics Tlt W/ E-maxx Tranny*

here it is, what a difference this made. no more belt skipping, 2 speeds and much smoother. loud as hell, though.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

looks very cool!

what kind of run times do you get?

i have a maxx tranny sitting...have been thinking about using it int he TSC-10, since my pede tranny is out of state


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Loud? That has always been the one issue I have had with an e-maxx- the noise. I was never sure where it came from but I expected a pair of motors. Now I know it was the tranny! when you say "big difference" what exactly are you refering to? Speed? Torque?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Loud is caused by the larger pitch of the gears inside and out, & the dual motors.


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## bigbadstu (Jun 3, 2003)

run time about a half hour with 2000 mAh battery. torque is about the same as before, but no more skipping, and without the belt tensioner the drivetrain is very free running. noisy, yes. lots of 32 pitch gears but it's worth it. the 2 speeds are slow, and really slow. using a 10 pinion and 70 spur (72 won't fit between the chassis plates)


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well as most of you guys know i am a huge TSC-10 chassis fan. and i had penguin RC do a custom cut tsc-10R for me. i had plays_with-toys permision to do this. please do not copy the tsc-10 wihtout asking first.


here she is the worlds first tsc-10 built from the PWT's cad drawing.


http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8509

http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8511

http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8513

http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8517

their are a few more pics and such at one18th.com
my thread has grown over 700 posts and almost 20,000 veiwers. the thread is like the pede forum here anything goes with a great group of guys.

hope you like it. and it may become a production option on a short run. if your interested pm pwt.

later 
-peter-


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Peter-
That looks great! Does it run the same as the original? I have not had my TLT out in ages. Stripped the receiver off it at the track when I forgot a radio and it just hasn't made it back. Now that it is getting warmer I should get more of a chance to drive it.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

it is a little lighter on it's feet. it feels the same as the alloy chassis with mashers when i run the huge all-t tires. hope to maybe glue a set of tires today and run it. the kids have a half day and the weather is finally acting like i live in western washington. on anf off rain, and some seruis hail storms yesterday.

lost a tree as well.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Hey Peter, How do you like the All-Ts? I was originally considering getting a set for my Pede but they seem too large far a stock chassied Pede. What do you think? any comments about them?

The TLT looks nice but in the chassis shot from the top it looks like the steering is limited on the battery side due to the All-T tire size. Also, no servo savers?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

no savers. the weight of the truck breaks them down. steering is fine, untill you get into some roughstuff. i love the all-ts size, but the tires are junky. all 4 tires feel different. ie sidewalll strength, tred face, and they seem to wide from bead to bead. 
think a slight narrow job on the tires will help but i lack the skills for a job like that.

i think in looks on a stock pede it would be okay with a well cut and lowered body. but it reminds me of the clod-wheeled pedes from rcmt. if you can get nthem cheap they maybe worth trying. i paid $17 a pair they retail for $20.


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## SantozRey (Apr 17, 2005)

Hello Chris !!!
I was searching for some input about PRP's tlt kit and I found you. I've read your write up on the chassis, GREAT stuff. I was hoping you could give me an update on your success (or lack of) using the PRP as a crawler. Have you locked the diffs? Did that help? Any fixes to the "tippyness" of the chassis? THANX!


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Actually I have not driven the truck much! I have gotten back into off-road racing and that has taken most of my effort. (actually, I needed the receiver and that was even more final!  Looking for a new one right now).

One thing I have done, but haven't tried out yet was to remove the outer plates. I found that I was forced to limit the articulation (through shock placement) ti keep the tires from hitting the outer plates. By removing those there is definitely more flex in the chassis (less after I replaced the four missing bolts! ) but I don't think that will matter as a crawler. Now there is nothing to hit with the wheels but the body. Right now I am still working on a different body mounting system as the posts were on the outer plates...









I am thinking of either putting Stampede type mounts onto the front and rear chassis plates or extending those posts (and placing them higher) to hold the body from the sides.

As far as locking the diffs? I had been thinking of the truck as a tough-truck sort of vbehicle where I didn't want them locked. As a crawler though, I will definitely lock them up. Not sure how just yet!

Thanks for the compliment on the write-up!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

nice job on removing the side plates.


i am still looking for a good limited slip option fo rhte tlt axles. think i have to hit the local subaru dealer to see what they have.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

ronbeck said:


> nice job on removing the side plates.


Well Peter, let me tell you! That was one tough mod. I mean I had to find the right allen wrench and then remember which direction to turn it in! 
 

Personally I think it looks really cool with the plates but at least as cool without them. Just different. Much more like a TTR Clod chassis w/o. When I first did it the thing was flexing all over the place and I got a bit worried. That was when I found (or didn't find) the missing bolts. I think I pointed out in my write-up that they failed to suggest loctite... I think I will use some now.

The plan is to figure out body mounts and then resecure everything, slap in my receiver and revisit this puppy as a crawler. I was just looking for speed when I first built it and was disillusioned by the lack there of. The numbers don't lie: gear it down with a tranny and a set of diffs and it aint going to be fast! I could always put the 5800 in there. That might pep it up a bit!

It would still roll over when it thought about cornering though.

The reason I stole the receiver (I think- it was a while ago) was that I wanted the FM receiver for the Novak brushless to avoid glitching. Unfortunately although I have LOTS of AM receivers, I only have that one FM/3 ch...


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i bet it would scream with the Bl in it. my friend run the Bl in his tlt. he also uses the pede tranny gears as well. and his is geared 12/93 and it is still fast. and pretty smooth at low throttle. i had wondered if you could lose the outer frame rails. i think it look much tuffer now. not so bulky and over sized.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Well, I might just have to try the BL in it just to find out! (insert evil laugh). I agree with the leaner/meaner look. It was a pretty big chassis!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Pretty good article about stretching the TLT in the June 2005 issue of RCCA. No pede tranny, but I guess the stock will do for those who arent as extreme


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I'm still waiting on that one. I hear there is also mention of our new track! Generally I prefer RC Driver but RCCA has it's virtues. Thanks for the heads-up.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

well, got my lazy rear around to working on the TLT again. I have the axle link mounts finished so now I just have to build a chassis..

sorry, no pics so far (lol, like you would want to see my truck); my dad currently has my digi cam


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

how has everyone been doing? and how are the trucks?

got mine running pretty solid. have my body trimmed enoigh. and need to rebuild one shock as well. with my current setup i get a almost 90 minutes or crawle time with a venom stick pack 3000mah, and my t-600 motor. 

i just got back my prot type penguin rc plates. they are made to allow you to run the traxxas magnum gears in the p2300 performance chassis. the truck it's going in will be built around the tobee stretch kit. ofna 2.2 deeeep offset rims, element 19x2 motor and 6&7 cell sanyo 1700 mahbatts.

hope to get wrench time on it in the morning.

later all


peter


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Peter, you are just going to have to put that into pictures for me. Is this a Penguin design or your design made by them? What are the magnum gears? The standard Pede gears?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

the magnum gears are from the traxxas magnum transmition(pede/rustybandit) it is a penguin rc peice. on the early proto stage. the top shaft, iddle gear and planetary diff are used.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Would those be closed up or open as with the PRP? I really worry about taking mine out in the nasty what with the diff gear sitting at the bottom of the open chassis.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

it is open but penguin included a temp;et for a rock gaurd. 

but when i ran my rusty i always ended up with a ton of junk in the tranny. it worked in the open hole in the bottom of the tranny case. you don't have that issue withthe pede?\

hope to jump on this in the next bit. pics will loaded at one18th. and i will post a link when i get that far.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well i did get tot eh truck a bit today. and here is the link i promised to what i was doing. http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?p=169609&posted=1#post169609

any Q's just ask.

peter


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

ronbeck said:


> it is open but penguin included a temp;et for a rock gaurd.
> 
> but when i ran my rusty i always ended up with a ton of junk in the tranny. it worked in the open hole in the bottom of the tranny case. you don't have that issue withthe pede?


 Nope, the Pede tranny stays pretty clean. Well, I do put tape over that hole as they suggest in the build instructions.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

ChrisHarris said:


> Nope, the Pede tranny stays pretty clean. Well, I do put tape over that hole as they suggest in the build instructions.


i never had an y instructions for mine. all secound hand 

how is the prp handling witht he side plates removed?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

It seems plenty stiff but I haven't had it out for more than a backyard romp. I need to lock up at least the rear diff for any real crawling. It is pretty fun right now but as expected, pretty tippy in the corners.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

*RCCA TLT stretch article*

I was just looking over the latest RCCA at the TLT crawler how-to and I had a question. On page 200 they talk about putting an o-ring behind the dogbone, and putting a spacer behind the drive cup to keep the dog bone from falling out. Two questions: Why? and How?  Seriously though, do you need to do this because the links are just long enough that the bones fall out? Wouldn't shorter links also deal with this problem? Or is it the amount of articulation that stretches the gap between the cups beyondwhat the slot of the cups can handle. Also, (never having tried) is there really enough length to the shaft coming out of the diff to move the cup that far out without faling off? I know that on my PRP where I have Pede yokes, there is barely enough room to get the set screw to seat as it is.

I guess the o-ring is to "center" the bone in the cup. I can't really see how that would work without it being in constant contact and wouldn't that mean there is no room for lateral motion with articulation?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i think the whole point of them using it is o mimic the old TC trick of using them. to reduce chatter in the cup and bone and runduce slop when turning. like when your tlt axle atric up and down. it will reduce the wear on the outdrives and ball end of the bone.

i didn't read the article but i did skim it. just seemed like a waste of a good chance to show something really nice off.with the years of rc building, the parts, the knowledge it just felt half-butted to me. 

what did you think of the article?


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Actually I thought that as a basic how-to to introduce people to the concept of modding trucks it worked pretty well. I have very little faith in RCCA for most stuff. Just like it's brother Mountain Bike Action which is equally over stuffed with ads and misinformation.

I DID like the way the guy used side mounted body posts for the rear to allow him to run a larger body. I might try that myself!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

For "average Joe RC-car-guy", its a fine article. For those of us (aka, me) who dont mind spreading the work out over a few months (only to find out you want to re-do the entire thing over a course of six months) custom everything is a must. No modded stock chassis underneath our jeep and truck bodies...


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I think I am in that same boat. I don't worry so much about how long it takes and hav e NEVER gotten all the parts together before I started into the truck mod. Then again, this was for an article and who knows how long and how many different attempts he made before he got to this one. I will never fault a guy for how far he goes, or doesn't on changing a truck/car. it is the act of doing it that counts. It takes vision and a willingness to explore. Not all tha tmany people have that. There is one guy at my track who has had a collection of the most amazing clods, racing,c rawling and bashing. Every one of them is store bought. Cost huge bucks and look awesome. Did he ever make a single part? Not that I know of. On the flip side my race clod cost me about $20 skipping the axles and electronics. It depends on what you want to do.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

i just thought the combo of using ball cups and i know they mentioned ball ends) and the posser pics on nthe rocks. i think it will miss lead the beginer into going the cheaper route and getting mad every three inches he/she has to pop a ball cup back on.

maybe it just struck me wrong, or i didn't get their intent.


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

The intent? Your guess is as good as mine. I just saw it as one of their typical "look what I did" sort of articles. They did a better job of it as a how-to but as you say they don't go into pros and cons. He DID say that they would pop off and that you could go the standard route with screws. he even went so far as to note the ball studs would go on the outside holes but the screws would use the inside ones. I don't know whether that would actually keep you from having to buy new linkages because of the changes end length. Would kinda stink if you tried the ball ends, didn't like them and then found you needed to invest another $20-$? on new links to keep the same wheelbase.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Started working on my TLT again today (well, yesterday I guess). It looks very similar to my old design, but I totally redid the link mounts. I should have some pics up in a few days of it completed or pretty close to being completed.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

woops, promised pics and didnt go through with it. well, I am re doing the shock mounts (again) soon and then my TLT should be good enough for me to keep it that way for more then two days. 

so how is everyone elses doing?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

trying to get everythign else up and runing. have a pede roller on the way. and have my mini giant running as well truck is a blast witht he fireball motor ball bearings and 6 cells. 

my tlt-10 is running my alloy tsc-10 chassis. i have been running it a fair amount of water with my friends truck. and i was worried about the Cf version i have. my son's tlt has my old penguin R/C p23000 chassis. i have a new tranny plate installed on his truck that allowz you to run pede tranny gears instead of the belt stock set up. 

close to a production unit but not enough run time yet. had to get 3 motors rebuilt so i could get that tlt up and running. the element 19t spec motor didn't like the 7 cells.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Know what you mean. Yokomo BD is taking up all my time. well, not working on it, but rather racing. 

If you need someone to do some testing on a chassis, I will gladly help out


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

Ran the TLT today. I should have ordered those white rear EVST springs a long time ago. WAY over sprung. I don't even get 1/2 the articulation that I should be getting. I'm only running four cells, mostly because I havnt came up with a good battery mount idea that could house six cells. My current mount can hold five, but I only had a four cell pack; no five. I can really notice a lack of punch, but that lack of punch also keep the front wheels down when I gun it. Mental note to self: order a 55t lathe motor. (I'm running a Orion "rush" 19t right now)


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

the lathes are in high demand still and a little hard to find online. the great planes T-600 is a lot cheaper and has great low end torque. i love mine. and plays with toys runs his with the colorado club guys. he said the t-600 is a little easier to gear and you can gear it up a little for some wheel spin. 


my truck is geared 93/16. and its as fast a fast walk. but not short on pulling/crawling/pushing power. i got 2-3 hours of run time on a venom 3000mah stick and i get 10-20 with the 2/3a kan cells. 

ran my truck the other day to make sure the electronics were still alive after my last water run.  i finished cutting the wheel wells out ont he new rock pleazer i have had since they were released. but messed up a body mount hole up front  

smo, what shocks are you running? i have losi pinks on the front of mine with stock rear pede springs in the back. think iwant to try pinks in the rear, but the other pair have a home on my pede 

nice to see some action here.
if anyone is interested in pics of the water run let me know and i will ink them up.

-peter-


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

Always interested in seeing other people do foolish things Pete!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

ChrisHarris said:


> Always interested in seeing other people do foolish things Pete!


WHY THaNK YOU 

a friend i chat with has almost messed his pants after seeing the pics. he has had the worst luck with h2o and escs 

http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11895
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11894
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11892
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11893
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11890
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11891
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11888
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11889
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11887
http://one18th.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11886

the oranghe truck is my friends tlt. it runs a penguin R/C p2300 chassis with the prototype magnum tranny plates. he has just gotten the AE three piece wheels mentioned by toyofast on rcc. so he was runnig my new and unused all-t tires. the AE rims and tobee craft wideners work very well together. 

this was the secound outing made at the creek by the ball feilds. we drive about a 100-150 foot section of it. i was not able to stay in the creek the whole time. had rain the day before so the water level was up much higher then the first run. HO502cid(on one18th/rccrawler=steve) was able to stay in the water all the way down.

the added 1/2 of wheel height really help him in the muck. his truck runs the novak 5800ss Bl on 5 gp 3300 cells. and steeringin is done through a futaba magnum 3pm with mixable third channel steering and 2 hitek 645 mg servos.

my current setup is great planes T-600 motor, noavk XRS esc, 6 cell 2/3a kan 1050 battery, xr3i radio for 3rd channel mixed steering and 2 jr z590 metal servos. he gets about 20 minutes of run time and i get about 15 per pack. i mount 2 packs on the chassis so i can just switch packs with out having to really stop. and the extra weight helps alot.

would love to hear what you guys think of the pics 

later all


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## ChrisHarris (Feb 26, 2002)

I think you are nuts! Ain't you heard that esc's and water don't mix? I assume you did something right waterproofing it as it seemed to put up with it. I would never have the guts to try that. Not with my truck anyway!  

Very cool.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

well yes and no with the water proofing  i mounted my esc ans rx super high. so the only time they are in danger is when the truck is upside down the servos have just had the bottom case screws checked for a nice tight fit. 

was looking at some new servos today at the lhs $30 144oz JR's. if i get them i will do more to them. silicone/shoer go the seams, and put a O-ring around the servo out put. i have a compressor now so i may get alttle more daring with how deep i go. 

boy i am stupid, but once you do it, you can't stop!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

crazy. good think I dont have any creeks around where I live or I would be doing the same thing...

The shocks are hotbodies threaded shocks. 30WT oil and the springs are about the same as the stock maxx springs (red ones).

gearing (I think, can't really read the # on the spur gear that well) is 87/14

144oz for $30!?! is that at 4.8 or 6.0 volts?


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

at 6v. it's one of the new JR racing bidget servos.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

Get an M-Troniks ESC and it is made waterproof, just put the reciever in a balloon and off you go! submurge it if ya want!


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

uhh... what about the battery? Won't it short out underwater?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

DC Power, nope.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

tommckay said:


> Get an M-Troniks ESC and it is made waterproof, just put the reciever in a balloon and off you go! submurge it if ya want!


for it to be really fun, you have to wonder if your truck will move again 
but i have looked at the eco20 mtronics. but have heard a lot of negative things about them and warrenty work done. the newer lrp escs are water proof as well. 

i could ballon the esc and rex. the esc dosent get warm with the t-600 motor i am running. i am just lazy and was looking for a good reason to buy new electronics


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I have a M-Troniks in my Pede and it has worked flawlessly and I have no complaints other than I wish it would go backwards faster. But that's no big thing. Sure makes taking it out in the snow a little easier!


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

tommckay said:


> I have a M-Troniks in my Pede and it has worked flawlessly and I have no complaints other than I wish it would go backwards faster. But that's no big thing. Sure makes taking it out in the snow a little easier!


how long have you had it? i have heard nothing but horror stories from people who run them. well except the guys who ran them in the micros. i guy a talk to had 3 melt down.


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I've had mine in the Pede for more than 2 years & had friends use it to race & I've raced it, bashed it, mistreated it, and it's worked great. One thing I did was mount the ESC on it's side, it just made sense, the whole bottom of it is a heat sink. If you tape it down normally you kinda nullify the heat sink.


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

thanks for the new info tom. may have to rethink getting a eco20 for a winter basher. the less i have to worry about the better. i have pulled the electronices from the crawler to balloon and remount. thy will be a little lower in between the chassis so when i roll over they will have more protection. 

saw a reveiw of the new(unreleased) 2.2 moabs at rccrawler.com i think i still want a set. they look mean and have a natural edge over teh masher 2ks. but it looks like you will need to have a set a wheel wideners of a super low slung rig.

chris you run the prp truck anymore? you were making some head way witht he chassis. or are you still decomission mode?


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## tommckay (Sep 26, 2001)

I believe I have the truck model, not the Eco, I don't know if that makes a difference or not


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

I am currently in the process of selling my TLT. I spent way too much time and money and it just wasn't performing like I wanted. Do not worry, I am using the money from it and some money "lying around" to make a clod with TheCrawlerStore's "stick" chassis, so I will still be a crawler. 

http://www.thecrawlerstore.com/Xtreme.htm


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

smojoe said:


> I am currently in the process of selling my TLT. I spent way too much time and money and it just wasn't performing like I wanted. Do not worry, I am using the money from it and some money "lying around" to make a clod with TheCrawlerStore's "stick" chassis, so I will still be a crawler.
> 
> http://www.thecrawlerstore.com/Xtreme.htm


smojoe,

sorry to see you go. but hope you like the stick. if you havent you should check rccrawler.com their are a few stick guys their. 

i still run my truck. but not as much as i used. but she still gets worked out pretty good. have stayed away from the stream though  i have plans to stretch my son's tlt to a 10+ inch wheelbase and run a tamiya silver can in reverse to help keep it from flipping backwords. 

well later all!

-peter-


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

yeah, you might see me on rccrawler asking some noobish questions (I know nothing about clods)

I ran a silver can for a while. I little too much RPM for my tastes, but it had the torque to get over stuff..


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

this truck will be more of a speed demon with the ability to climb a bit. i have my full blown crawler already. with the crawlers your always looking ofr the magik bullet setup. i had more fun with tweeking the truck to get it were it is. then running most of the time. but getting someone to run with is a must for long term fun.


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

amen. one my LHS's employees stretched a TLT (after I told him about mine. I felt bad when I came in and told him I was selling mine) and another guy (havn't met him yet) has a TXT crawler. I'll just have to get my dad into crawling (he followed me into touring cars) so that he will drive me to the comps they have in San Jose (I think)(about an hour and a half away)(no, I don't have my license/permit)(yes, I am 16)


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## ronbeck (Oct 30, 2002)

a new employee at the lhs was trying to slow down his Emaxx. and he was very unhappy with it. i showed him my crawler and he is getting a price break down for all the parts  

well no new progress on the truck(s). hope to get some progress on them soon. i had forgoten i had the new links to stretch my son's truck...

well later


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## smojoe (May 17, 2002)

tell him to buy a Greatplanes GD600 and have someone turn down the output shaft to fit normal pinions. an extra 2.5 reduction right off the motor should slow it down.


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