# Mono flying sub build?



## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Well, some people may have visions of sugar plums dancing in their heads. Not me.











The hexagonal deck shapes are courtesy of a fellow modeler (aaaak forget who! ChrisK?) Here it is . It's 700K so download at your own risk. 
Not sure where it’s going yet, but I have visions of backlit decks dancing in my head…

Visited Iggy's site already today for some pointers.

Once upon a time someone suggested gluing the hull together first then building the inner walls, kind of like a ship in a bottle. This may solve some of the fit problems. hmmmm.

Any and all reasonable suggestions will be entertained!


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Good Luck with the hull. I basically stopped on my Aurora because of the poor fit. Plus, I have very little skill!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Test fit seems ok. 










However I think I need....

Lightsheet Man!


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Good idea Steve:thumbsup: Please keep us inform on how it goes and hope you have a Merry Christmas:dude:


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## Brent Gair (Jun 26, 1999)

F91 said:


> *Good Luck with the hull. I basically stopped on my Aurora because of the poor fit. *


I think virtually every one of these Flying Sub kits is warped to one degree or another.

Mine looked like it was molded in the shape of a corkscrew! It was certainly the most "off" model I've ever had.

Fortunately, it's a design that is VERY FIXABLE with application of very hot water and some manual force. I got mine back into shape by holding the hull in sink of scalding hot water and twisting the corkscrew in the opposite direction. Then I'd plunge it into some cold water. Did this several times until the warp was completely worked out. 

Turned out pretty good:

http://groups.msn.com/WorldAccordingtoGair/models.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=102


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Brent, Excellent advice, as usual. I have already painted the part, Do you think thats a problem? BTW, I have seen you FS and pretty good is a bit of an understatement. Thanks for the help.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Brent Gair said:


> *I Then I'd plunge it into some cold water. Did this several times until the warp was completely worked out.
> *



 Just don't ask him where he found cold water..... shudder... the horror...


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## Brent Gair (Jun 26, 1999)

Sheesh! I'll never live that down! Ok...I admit it...my cold water source was the toilet.

But this is a nice middle class bungalow with clean fixtures. It's not like I was using facilities in the men's room at the Bus station .

It was a matter of practicallity. I filled the sink with scalding water and the toilet was the nearest source of deep cold water (this is Canada...believe it or not we have larger toilets than the U.S. Seriously, ask a contractor).

F91, an already painted part might be a problem, especially if you used acrylics. However, it's not something I would classify as a serious problem. What's the worse that could happen? You might have to a do a little sanding and repainting. That's a rather minor inconvenience in comparison to wasting a pretty good (and increasingly hard-to-find) model. Seems like you have nothing to lose by trying.


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

No big pot to put cold water in? .....shudder.....


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I don't remember how warped mine was, but all I did was glue it together and clamp it in the right shape while the glue dried.










Cold water in Canada? Naaaaaah  (I remember sticking my hand into glacier-fed Lake Louise in Bamff. Holy merde!)


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Hey John P can we get some inside pics of your sub?
Thanks :thumbsup:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Eric K said:


> *No big pot to put cold water in? .....shudder..... *


Yo! Eric, was that your diagram? (the deck pattern). It was over a year ago I think.


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

I think so...if so, I'm glad it's getting good use 

Eric


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

ham1963 said:


> *Hey John P can we get some inside pics of your sub?
> Thanks*


Stock out of the box and sealed in! I glued the top on.


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Thanks guy for the answer :thumbsup:


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## Mark Smiddy (Sep 16, 2001)

Where's Fluke hiding? He did an outstanding job of building/lighting his FS & he has photos.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve is there a way to print the pattern on 8 1/2 x 11 paper?


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Dr. P,
I wonder if you can save it and download it to Paint Shop or Word and blow it up to fit an 8 1/2 x 11 paper.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

I open it with photo software. Microsoft Picture It. It sizes automatically to 8 1/2 by 11 and that seems the right scale to apply to the kit.


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## BrianM (Dec 3, 1998)

*...*

...keep us posted please, looks great so far!


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

I used Microsoft Photo Print and it worked great :thumbsup:


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## FoxTrot (Jan 27, 2000)

Great work Steve - really keen to see what it looks like when finished.

And Brent, _why_ are Canadian toilet bowls larger?... on 2nd thought don't answer that...

cheers
FT


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## F91 (Mar 3, 2002)

Slightly OT-RE: Toilet bowls? It's the water...that they use in the beer. Trust me on that one. Never go to Canada and drink with a bunch of Canuck fans before a hockey game, you forget what happens.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Arrrg. OK for those of you outside the US and Canada. The US adopted strict flush standards in the late 80's or early 90's. 1.5 US gal or 6L per flush.

There are still some high volume antiques out there. But any house or remodel after the restrictions went in place require the new toilets.

Canada has a LOT of water and few people. You figure it out.

On the Sub, I've been in contact with Mike Emory ([email protected]) about lightsheet. He's preparing a quote for the custom size the sub's floor requires.

Mike?... Mike?...


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## Brent Gair (Jun 26, 1999)

He He

Steve244 is right. We don't have water conservation laws for bathroom fixtures. My toilet holds enough water to flush a Volkswagen. BTW, from watching several of those remodelling shows ("This Old House" etc.) I learned that it's perfectly legal for Americans to purchase and install Canadian size toilets. Seems that they just can't be sold in the U.S.. But people with a few bucks to spend actually order them here and have them sent to the U.S.!

Ya' know, if it weren't for the use of my toilet in straightening out that warped FLYING SUB, this would be the most off-topic message I ever posted.


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## Krel (Jun 7, 2000)

This is the first topic that I've seen that has literally gone straight into the toilet. :lol: 

The thing about the low flush toilets in the U.S. is that you have to flush them two, or three times using more water than you would have with the old toilets. This is the government's idea of how you can conserve water, you make people use more.  

David.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Not so... grasshopper. The technology exists to provide the perfect flush even with such stringent requirements.

Do a web search on Toto Kiki and all will be known...


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Found some blueprints on the Flying Sub & Seaviewhttp://www.nimr.org/flysub.html


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve how is the Flying sub coming along?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Congressional hearings on military and scientific spending have halted its development.

We hope to have funding from the private sector to continue building in about a week.

(Mike Emory, where are you?!!!!)


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## The Batman (Mar 21, 2000)

DR. PRETORIOUS said:


> *Found some blueprints on the Flying Sub & Seaviewhttp://www.nimr.org/flysub.html *



http://www.nimr.org/flysub.html


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Steve244, maybe you need to get Ted Turner to fund your building of the flying sub. You know how he likes things that sail and fly.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve how is the Flying Sub coming along?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Still waiting for lightsheet®.

As this will go under the deck, it's really the first step.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

ham1963 said:


> Steve244, maybe you need to get Ted Turner to fund your building of the flying sub. You know how he likes things that sail and fly.



It'll _never_ happen. He's broke. Because of Time-Warner, Ted lost all of his billions and became an ordinary millionaire. 


ACE


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Back on track! 










Upper left is unpowered. Lower left is powered with bright ambient light (60W desk lamp 24 inches above). Lower right is powered with low ambient light.

*Lightsheet Man Rap:*


> ...Your Flyin' Sub should be lookin' fine....
> 
> In just a matter of a couple days
> You're little sub will then be on it's way
> ...


Mike Emory and the Lightning Bugs ([email protected])​


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## Nemorosus (Feb 1, 2002)

Your "Aquafoil" is looking good! Mr I.A. should be proud.

As for the rap...did he give you a tune with that message??

Ps. Nice work on the AMT 'Amtronic" too. I look forward to seeing both in progress.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Thanks! The amtronic was a filler. I've got a few of them for kitbashing and decided to build one straight. That will also help imagine other craft. I can see one becoming a trek-like shuttle.

I've got more electronic gizmo's on order for the flying sub. A friend suggested these  to light up the reactor wall. I'll give'em a test drive and review when they arrive.


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## Nemorosus (Feb 1, 2002)

The new LED's sound good. Will protective eyewear, such as welding goggles, be required upon viewing the finished interior??

Now a (little) more serious question. Does the Amtronic still come with a description of this vehicle of the future? I remember when I had one in the 60's that it said that the "car" was supposed to levitate and travel along special roads at high speeds while under computer guidence. Sort of like the "freeways" in "Minority Report".


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Nemorosus said:


> The new LED's sound good. Will protective eyewear, such as welding goggles, be required upon viewing the finished interior??


I plan on displaying it with a mirror to avoid direct exposure.




In my fever to start gluing the AMTronic parts together I didn't read all the accompanying text. Besides I built the thing at a young impressionable age and remember its characteristics vividly. I even put together the cardboard "roadbed" that came with it back in 1970.

Must be confusing to the current builders why it comes with "guardrails".

Here's the original blurb .

_hmmmm the line between flying subs and flying cars is blurring somewhat. Interesting...._


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## Nemorosus (Feb 1, 2002)

Thanks Steve!

_Wayne begins to hear the music form Donald Fagen's "I.G.Y." and begins to be overcome with nostalgia for "the way the future was supposed to be"_ 

Watch out! Those fins on the front of the Amtronic could be "mistaken" for forward dive fins....


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

So what is the status of your Flying Sub Steve?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

It has assumed a position of ignominy. shudder.










(and I was complaining about lightsheet not coming!)

On the positive side I feel some kind of stirrings deep within that may portend future development. No wait. That's lunch.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Blew the dust of the FS box. Pulled out the reactor wall I'd started months ago and started drilling.

Kit wall on left (where did _that _ come from?). My wall on right. Screen grab below. (Thx Eric K and Iggy).



















think i'm on a roll. Wait'll you see it throbbing. (I can hardly wait.)


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## heiki (Aug 8, 1999)

*Did they or Irwin get the idea for the wall from the reactor wall in 20 Thousand?*


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Agonizing over how to assemble the flying sub's rollcage and then paint it without messing up my clean deck I remembered....

Iggy's Jig! 










Had some strip styrene that was just about the right width to space the cross members, just had to add some sheet styrene under the center cylinder. The can-o-glue weight was my idea. It'll be a cinch to paint as a separate assembly.

Thx again Iggy. By the way, how's your sub doing ?


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## Renegade (Sep 16, 2001)

Such a classy jig. I used match sticks to prop mine up when I built it. Guess I'm just a barbarian.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Mine is weak compared to....


...Iggy's Jig:










Does it strike anyone else that the ancients at Stonehenge were actually building a jig for some kind of vehicle? hmmmmm.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Got the disco floor installed.










Lightsheet is cool stuff (and it generates no heat!)

Powered down:


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## Renegade (Sep 16, 2001)

Outstanding :thumbsup:


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Superb as always with your kits! :thumbsup:


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

I will give it :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Bjgrammy (Feb 16, 2002)

Steve, loook's like you are staying busy and off the streets! :thumbsup:


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## NUM11BLADE (Feb 16, 2002)

Cool, dig the crazy light show. Is that bong still floating around?  :thumbsup:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Bjgrammy said:


> Steve, loook's like you are staying busy and off the streets! :thumbsup:



yesssss, Bj... please pass the bong...


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Steve,

Its looking great. :thumbsup: 
Why the original kit did not have the reactor wall (One of the most recognizable internal features of the flying sub) continues to be a mystery to me..

What are you going to use to light up the reactor 'portholes/windows'???

I had a thought of using tricolored LED's in each hole and an electronic circuit that flashed them all different random colors. 
Downside was that you would not get any blues or whites with the tricolor LED's. 

Alteratively maybe glue some frosted material behind the holes and have a number of LED's (Whites Blues Reds Greens etc) flashing at different angles from behind.. Assuming that there is room for it all between the reactor wall and the body.

Alien


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

I've purchased some red/green/blue LEDs that vary/mix colors. A few of these with a delay circuit to stagger the starting time a half second for some is my current plan. 

I'm going to construct a "light box" behind the panel so there isn't any distinct points of light. Indirect lighting is the way to go...

Here are the LEDs. 

Depending on the success (or lack of) I'll use your idea for a flasher and different colors. Yes there's room for a light box behind the panel.


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## rossjr (Jun 25, 2001)

Great job Steve! What did you use for the flooring itself?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

After making rough hexagonal openings in the original deck, I fit a thin piece of stock styrene with the openings slightly smaller (and a lot more accurate than the rough ones) over the deck. Sort of a “bezel”. (You can see this unpainted white piece peeking out of the box in the "reactor wall" picture above.)

This provided an "encasement" to sandwich clear styrene pieces (sort of a “watch crystal”), then photo-etch grid in between the surface of the deck and the bottom of the deck. The bottom layer is a single piece of lightsheet.

I would have been happier finding hex shaped photo-etch grids, but my search was futile. Fine squares will have to do.

I tinted the clear styrene with Future mixed with food coloring to make it a dark brown.

Also the lightsheet is blue on beige off (even if you order "white" lightsheet, the lit color is more blue than white, and the off color is a puky pink). I would have been happier with a powered color closer to white, but overall I'm happy with the effect. And there just isn't room under the deck for LED or incandescent lighting with anything approaching uniform light.


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

I'm really getting a kick out of watching this develop Steve. I'm gald the graphics i sent you are getting some use. Feel free to disseminate them as you see fit. :wave: 

Eric


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

You're doing such excellent work. Please continue on with updated pics. This is good stuff.


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## Mike Emery (Aug 11, 1999)

Steve,

You've got mail!

Don't glue anything together yet on that floor!

BTW... "pukey" pink??

Anyway, that's one of those engineering compromises. There is a "beige" off-state white, but it's just not bright enough.

The perception of white LightSheet being a bit blue can be exagerated by incandescent ambient lighting (which carries a strong yellow-orange component) or higher-frequency operation (which happens when smaller-than-nominal areas are powered by a given LightDrive.)

In any case, just about all color variations can be corrected (or funky new colors created!) by the use of theatrical gel filters. A swatchbook with hundreds of colors costs under $10 and from there you can purchase larger sheets at a few bucks a pop that'll supply many a model. A well-stocked camera shop should be able to set you up with the goods.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Eric K said:


> I'm really getting a kick out of watching this develop Steve. I'm gald the graphics i sent you are getting some use. Feel free to disseminate them as you see fit. :wave:
> 
> Eric


Yes, the graphics are great. Perfect scale when printed on an 8x11 sheet of paper. No better way to position, mark the outlines for the hex shapes in the deck. I'll dig that file up and put it out on my current server. There are a few subs out there which may benefit. (Wonder when revellogram will re-release this; it's about time!) I'll send it to Iggy too if you don't mind so he can add it to his FS support page.



Mike Emory said:


> You've got mail!
> 
> Don't glue anything together yet on that floor!


 :freak: too late... nailed it down. But thanks for the offer of hex-photoetch!



Mike Emory said:


> BTW... "pukey" pink??
> 
> Anyway, that's one of those engineering compromises. There is a "beige" off-state white, but it's just not bright enough.


Absolutely. Yeah the white sheet you provided for the J2 did very nicely (console backlight). Today I'd put some colored overlays to tone down the pretty pink off-state color.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Here's Eric K's deck diagram:










Click here  for a hi res version (700K). Print scaled to fit 8x11 paper using landscape mode for 1:1 scaling with the aurora/monorellogram kit (I used photo processing software to print).


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

I'm glad you're putting this up for everyone. It can also be good for the lunar models FS as well. I mean, with all the knowledge passed around here so selflessly, it's the least I can do  

Eric


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Did'ja ever spend too damn much time thinking and not enough doing?

Finally decided to glue down the bottom hatch piece (I have a spindrift aurora style stand to stick in the slot). Not being able to decide where the light sources will be placed (and ancillary electronics) I just ran a bunch of wires and optic fibers under the deck.

The wires are secured with super glue. Fiber with hot glue. 

Hopefully I ran enough...

Deck's glued in place. Should start shaping up quickly...










Hopefully there's still room for...ductwork!

Maybe I was frustrated at an early age not being able to play with doll houses?










(it always bothered me the back door opening directly into the engine intake...)


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## heiki (Aug 8, 1999)

Steve244 said:


> ...
> (it always bothered me the back door opening directly into the engine intake...)


*Or that the door opened straight out the back of the Flying Sub!*


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

heiki said:


> *Or that the door opened straight out the back of the Flying Sub!*


I think you're right! But there are those who swear they saw an engine room between the inside back door and the outside back door...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

I've lain awake nights worried about the sub going in circles. Twin reactors should solve this not to mention the bunk issue.

Weight is not an issue.










Kinda spooky:


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Awesome as usual Steve :thumbsup:


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## BatFanMan (Aug 20, 1999)

*Steve 244!*

Hi Steve 244, you've got e-mail! :wave:


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Looking Good Steve :thumbsup: :tongue: :thumbsup:


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## FoxTrot (Jan 27, 2000)

Holy Moly!
There is styrene Master of Universe, and his name is Steve...
Unbelievable :thumbsup:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

uh thanks! But wait till you see the finished product; there's time for me to screw it up...


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## FoxTrot (Jan 27, 2000)

Somethin' tells me I'd be willing to trade one of 'my own' build ups for one of yur 'screw ups' any day, my construction ability would need several orders of magnitude development to get to a 'Steve' standard...


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## heiki (Aug 8, 1999)

So with out a bunk, where are the boys gonna nap on a long trip?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

um, maybe string some hammocks?


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

"Gilligan! Drop those coconuts!"
[BONK!]
"Doh!"
"Skipperrr!"


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## John O (Mar 8, 2000)

Okay, why is John Robinson holding a laser to his head while standing in the Flying Sub???


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

He just read the script.


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## Big Daddy Dave (Sep 30, 1999)

I thought he was trying to get rid of that annoying dandruff !


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

It fits! sort of.

The PCB I ordered for the chaser circuit to operate the radiation counter lights and other flashing lights was hopelessly too big so I cobbled together one with bits of stray wire.

That's the lightsheet driver module black box (foreground against wall), not Admiral Nelson's locker.

I'm not sure there's gonna be room for ductwork.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Getting tired: there's room for ductwork. yay.


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## NUM11BLADE (Feb 16, 2002)

Cant help it! (how much stuff can I put in a clam shell)  :thumbsup:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Wait till you see what I have planned for the Master Bathroom (for the boys for those long trips...)


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve, so for your chaser circuit what did you do? Just made your own circuit board to fit?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

used one of those pre-drilled boards from radio shack cut to size. Soldered components to the board, soldered wires to make the circuit. Yes it was tedious. Took about 3 hours.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Here's a pic of the dirt side of the flasher circuit. Not too pretty.










Got the bedroom painted...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

The aurora kit (monogram issue) is well engineered.

The multitude of complex angles and curves in the structure do cause some fit problems. Not the size of pieces but how closely they mate. Fitting a couple pieces then gluing and warping in place with clamps and being patient the thing goes together well enough.

Happily the outer hull of my copy doesn't have the warp that others had to deal with.










However my "shipyard" is rather warped.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Oh my god. Flying Sub envy is a terrible thing to live with.

Get a look at Mr. Merriman's. 










My my, doesn't he look like the cat that ate the canary (or is about to!)...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Reactor test!










Using this flashing LED with its own IC. I added voltage protection (zener diode + resistor) to run it on a 9V source. It's really cool. It cycles through many more colors than these.

Here's a 2.6mb avi file showing it in action...

Where's that bong?


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## rossjr (Jun 25, 2001)

WoW! You finished it and put it on e-bay already???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3155574622&category=1193


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Ok... now we know who has the bong... 

(Someone bought it! :freak: )


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

Well, Steve, that is really amazing! This is really an outstanding job!!

Eric


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## Nemorosus (Feb 1, 2002)

Looks Great!

Keep the pictures coming!


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## rossjr (Jun 25, 2001)

BTW - Steve your work continues to amaze me. The only problem is you build it before I do, and I know I won't do as well as you do so I loose interest. No Bong on that....


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

rest easy, I leave little flaws throughout my work. Then I give the results to my son (he's 8) to play with...

Oh and when it comes to doing figures I really suck. The Half Nelson and Crane that come with the kit will make a guest appearance. But they'll be wearing "Night of the Living Dead" makeup.


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

It'll be a Halloween flight then? :freak: 

Eric


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

Steve,
The video is awesome! Any chance we can get the schematic?

Rob


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

It's really simple: buy the LED , attach to a 3.5V source (a pair of AA's will do close enough at 3.0V).

The thing seems to have current limiting circuitry built into its IC. I've hooked it up to 9V directly for some time. It remained healthy. But I'd be reluctant to close it up in a model that way.

I wire 9V, so I put a 3.9V zener diode  across the LED in reverse bias (negative to positive). The zener acts as a "safety valve" shunting excess voltage around the LED. In addition a 100ohm resister before the LED/zener combiniation. This gives the LED a constant 3.9V as it cycles through the colors and current varies a lot. 

Here's a pic of the "reactor's" backside. I've painted over the butt of the LED. The positive lead is on top. Note the negative side of the zener diode is towards the positive LED, and the 100ohm resistor is on the positive side. Connect to 9V source (battery) and watch it go!


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve I tried watching the video but it said your bandwidth is exceded.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Try again after midnight (EST)...


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## Steve CultTVman Iverson (Jan 1, 1970)

when he turns into a werewolf...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Especially in cases involving bandwidth...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Static test of Flying Sub's portside nuclear engine prove...










Successful!


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

great work steve, very nice !!!!!!!!!!!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Thanks Bert! Hope it continues that way...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Semi trussed up, but it ain't no turkey...










Still have to wrassle the fiber and add engines and sequencer, but she's almost ready to move in...










Have a happy Thanksgiving!


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Happy Thanksgiving to you, Steve.

You've done a beautiful and thorough job on this.

Irwin would be proud!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Dry fitting the upper hull pieces show a misalignment of several millimeters both over the front view port and the rear vertical fins...

Do I lock it down with glue? Or do I resort to Brent's methods? It's well within tolerances for gluing and clamping, but then I won't be able to pop the top. Peering inside through the view port might not do it…

Guess I'll try heating and bending the top and see how well it goes. Right now I'm wishing I had a Canadian toilet...


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

rubber bands do the trick. not as yucky as toilet water either :freak:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

A pot of simmering broth, some sparkling ice water. And a visible fix. I'll fine tune it when the wing tops are glued, but it looks like she'll remain a convertible hard top afterall...


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## Mike Emery (Aug 11, 1999)

I don't know how much flexibility there is in the "hardtop," but you might try adding a few of those tiny super-power rare-earth magnets at the corners. It might be enough to close the remaining gaps while allowing future removal (even holding the top in place as your Sub does "flight tests!")


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## NTRPRZ (Feb 23, 1999)

John O said:


> Okay, why is John Robinson holding a laser to his head while standing in the Flying Sub???


Actually, that's a gag shot from a first season Lost in Space episode called "The Sky Pirate." The ep features an Earth pirate who was kidnapped by aliens back in the 1800s. He's stolen an alien ship and has outfitted it with some things to remind him of home, i.e., the hammock. To my recollection, the exterior of the ship was more like the VTTBOTS diving bell.

Obviously they reused parts of the Flying Sub's interior.

Such gag shots from Lost in Space -- especially color shots from the BW first season are rare -- and this is a keeper (pardon the pun!)

Jeff


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Mike Emery said:


> I don't know how much flexibility there is in the "hardtop," but you might try adding a few of those tiny super-power rare-earth magnets at the corners. It might be enough to close the remaining gaps while allowing future removal (even holding the top in place as your Sub does "flight tests!")


I wouldn't know a rare earth magnet from the run of the mill kind. Aurora helpfully designed high tech "tabs" to secure the top for those multi-G maneuvers. The plastic is very thick and stiff (thanks to the ribs and fins). Heating bending cooling are the ticket.

About 30 strands of fiber optics are shown here attached to a "manifold" using Formula 560 canopy glue. Stuff is strong but takes 24 hours to cure completely. Cleans up with water before curing. Good for securing fiber. This will be moved in front of the 10LED sequencer.











I understand a little how Bones felt when he was installing Spock's brain . blech...


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## 543101 (Nov 30, 2003)

*hi dad!*

I was just showing my friend Dylan what you have been working on.Happy model building!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Cool! Maybe he'd like to build something too!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

NUM11BLADE said:


> Cant help it! (how much stuff can I put in a clam shell)  :thumbsup:


More?


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## rossjr (Jun 25, 2001)

Do you ever get the idea that Steve likes what he's doing????

Wow great work Steve keep the pictures coming, the only problem is that I will never be able to build one of these, you set the bar too high.....


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

rossjr said:


> . . . you set the bar too high.....


No joke! There's no need for ANYone to ever build another FS! This one has filled the philosophical niche for everyone! :thumbsup:


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## FoxTrot (Jan 27, 2000)

Magnificent, awesome, incredible etc. etc. etc. :thumbsup: Fox


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## 543101 (Nov 30, 2003)

*what's up?*

Did you add anything to the Flyingsub? If youdid please tell me. If you did please tell me.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Sure did!

I put the pilot seats in (just dry fit) and the control console with radar and TV. 










I made the tv screens from this capture of the old TV show.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

One last picture for tonight...










And a 2.7mb movie* 



*requires quicktime

1mb AVI playable using windows media player...


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

wow steve that is INCREDIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Renegade (Sep 16, 2001)

Awesome :thumbsup:


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## from_beyond (Nov 9, 2001)

Wow  

Steve, your work is truly amazing. Jaw-dropping.


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## heiki (Aug 8, 1999)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> No joke! There's no need for ANYone to ever build another FS! This one has filled the philosophical niche for everyone! :thumbsup:



*No! Someone, or steve needs to built it with a toliet and the bunkbed!*

I am impressed with this built.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Thanks! But really it's just smoke and mirrors. What I lack in skill I make up for in gadgets. It won't stand against a well built e-prise and win, but I'm having much more fun than the aztecing guys. Maybe not. To each their own. What's important to me is that the end user think it's cool. Nicky, my son, needs to make room next to the J2!

The bunk really seems superfluous. Even the series creators left it out on later episodes. A head seems mandatory though. Maybe back in the nuclear engine room there's room...


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## heiki (Aug 8, 1999)

Steve244 said:


> ...The bunk really seems superfluous. Even the series creators left it out on later episodes. A head seems mandatory though. Maybe back in the nuclear engine room there's room...


*Could that be the secret ingrediant to nuclear power?*


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

_"I think I'll wait till we get back to Seaview"_


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Admiral Nelson's "open door policy" almost scuttles the ship...










For those of you contemplating this build, the rear bulkhead fits at an angle, not vertically. This is implied by the engine room walls, but if you plan on leaving them out (like I am) you may make my mistake of mounting the bulkhead perpendicular to the sub bottom. Luckily I tried test fitting the top and was able to correct.

Cool construction shot:


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Absolutely excellent!

I'm speechless...or typeless...


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

*More, More We want More *


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

yessir! sorrysir! I've been watching too much TV lately.

Engine room is almost ready to receive nuclear propulsion tubes...










Test fitting curvy IA girders...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Engines installed and tested...










Still working on lavatory arrangements..


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

holy cow steve !!!!!! unbelievable talent !!!!!!! OUTSTANDING !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bert


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

*flying sub*

nice work steve, :thumbsup:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## FoxTrot (Jan 27, 2000)

a complete loss of words...!!!
Steve, you must write an electronic chapter on this thing, all your photos included, & perpetuated at Cult's site? Cheers, Fox.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

er... that's what I'm doing?

Thanks for the encouragement, here's another collage. 

I'm about ready to seal up the works. Lots of test fitting managed to jiggle loose one of my bad solders; another benefit of dry fitting parts.











It's been running non-stop for about the past 30 minutes on a single 9v battery. No sign of weakening.

Stay tuned for... _The Outside_.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

i will stay tuned !!!


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## saturn5tony (Dec 8, 2003)

I thought I was the electronics person around here....
I steps aside....  

That video blew me away. Nice work Steve :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

We're Not Worthy!!!! Absolutely Incredible.


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## Nemorosus (Feb 1, 2002)

Beautiful!

Mr. Allen would be proud!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

(Clockwise from upper left) 
Added light baffles that were painted flat-black before gluing down the wing tops. 
Computer Aided Flying Sub Construction. 
Clamp... please?
Judicious use of 3M blue tape.


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## saturn5tony (Dec 8, 2003)

I still think the light in the 3 hexagons is wierd funky magic!! :freak: 

Gluing down the wing panels must be the hardest thing to do. Hope there won't be any solder shorts. Are you sure you didn't leave a pair of pliers in there!!!


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## Steve CultTVman Iverson (Jan 1, 1970)

Where's the bowling alley?

Cult


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Clear nail polish over any un-insulated wire. Learned my lesson the hard way. 'cept buying the stuff is embarrassing; have to steal it.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve how did you do the engines and light them up?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

The engine "ductwork" are clear acrylic rods, about 7mm in diameter (available at fine hobbyshops). I turned these using a slow speed drill and a file to produce the "nipples" (I can say nipple can't I?). The rough cuts were polished using Novus plastic polish.

Next I heated them over the stove and bent them. I messed up about 5 before I got 2 close enough to use (but they aren't identical). They burn really well too if you get them too close to flame.

They are lit with 5mm UV LED's  at the opposite ends attached with heat-shrink insulation.


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

So Steve are you Radio Shack's favorite customer? :tongue: :lol:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

They wish...

Moneywise it's more LightSheet Systems*. 

LED's c/o eLED . Sequencer and flashy LED's C/O All Electronics.

I have considered buying a Ratshack franchise!

Got all worked up to try test fitting the top. Tried a little too aggressively. Oh well, re-glue wingtops, shave convertible top tabs (too wide) and try again tomorrow...









* [email protected]


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Doc says the bandages can come off tomorrow.

After trimming the top's tabs it clicked on without springing the wings off. But there were still gaps. I fine tuned it with boiling water, bending, ice water (repeated about 15 times). Also the front lip was way too thick. I had to dremel about 3mm of material off the inside to get it to settle down.

These are the after pics. Think it's OK for a convertible hard-top sub.











After bending it one way and then the other for an hour, I took some more glamour shots of the inside. The top left photo was taken to show how close the upper hatch fits next to the ladder ring. Not a lot of room for modifying the hatch: about 3mm to play with I'd say. Think I'll sleep on it...


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

:drooling:

[kirk voice] "So! InCREDibly! Beautiful!" [/kirk voice]


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## NUM11BLADE (Feb 16, 2002)

I wonder if the original Model workers, Tool makers, R&D, etc. could ever have dreamed the kit would look this great. The models got more lights then my christmas tree!


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## Eric K (Jul 15, 2001)

Absolutely astounding work!!

Eric


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

So where's Admiral Nelson and Capt. Crain?Outstanding work!!!"Makes a blind man talk about seeing again"!!!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

They're both AWOL. Slunk off when they thought I wasn't looking.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I don't think I'll EVER build mine now. 

You have already built the "state of the art" PL Jupiter 2 and the Flying Sub. It seems you are also working deep within the irwin Allen Universe as the insides look bigger than the outside. 

Please don't do a looner moddles 2 foot Jupiter 2 until I have had the chance to show mine off. 

You may wanna send a link of this thread to Industrial Light & Magic. They still Do make some models.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

hahahahaha Thanks!

The insides _are _ bigger than the outside. If the glue ever loses hold it'll be an environmental disaster!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

1 year working on this and the end is in sight! Wonder if that's how Santa feels...

Well ok it's really only 2 months working on it off and on. The rest of the year was just looking at the box on my workbench.

Status as of today: At Earl Scheib's for painting.










Have a happy holiday!


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Looking good Steve. What color are you using? Have a great holiday!!!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Model master chrome yellow over Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer 1000 gray. I tried white primer, but I actually like the depth imparted by the darker sub-layer. This is after the 2nd spraying. Buff it again and spray again. Repeat once or twice more.

I'm torn between spraying it with semi-gloss lacquer as a top coat and just leaving it shiny. Sure is purty.

Have a happy!


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Looking good Steve, :thumbsup: :thumbsup: would you be intrested in doing my MIM Seaview  ?


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## Steve CultTVman Iverson (Jan 1, 1970)

Steve... just over a month to Sci Fi Model Con

Steve


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

so much time and so little to do! Strike that; reverse it.

Actually besides "The Stand" and "The Crue" there's not much left. I'm thinking of Crane and Nelson in gold Neru jackets and granny glasses…

(Thanks ham; I’ve already got a “blue” mim seaview in my stash. We’ll see what’s next. I’m still working on all the kits I messed up when I was 8.)


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve how did you make the engine room doors open & close?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Ahhh that would be one of Ziz's inventions: The "J hinge". I tried C hinges, D hinges and eventually worked my way down to his.

I made this out of wire which was formed into a J around a round file. I used styrene to hold the pivot and superglued the other end to the door.

The door is simply sheet styrene cut to fit the hole I dremelled out.










The inner door is glued open.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Very cool Steve. :thumbsup:


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Steve could you give me a link to the sequencer you used? I couldn't find it on the site.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Here it is.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## Paraclete1 (Nov 27, 2000)

Steve, you may have already covered this and I may have missed it, but how did you make the grating that runs through the engine room? And thanks for the link for the chaser lights, I've been looking for something like that to rig the landing bay approach lights for my Battlestar.

Don


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

*Hey Steve are we going to see the flying sub at Wonderfest this year?* :tongue:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

The grid on the engine room floor is K+S brass photo-etch mesh.

Wonderfest? hmmmm dunno, don't think so. But ya'll are welcome in Atlanta up to the Scifi Model Con. That deadline is looming. And I'm down in Micky Land this week. sigh...


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

Steve,
What's the latest and greatest on your sub?

Rob


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

sigh... personal life interferes with personal hobby...

It won't be ready for Atlanta on 31 January, but wfest is a good possibility.


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## PhilipMarlowe (Jan 23, 2004)

Man!
I got a monogram flying sub in the mail today I won cheap on Ebay (no box), I haven't had one since I was about 12 years old, I can not BELIEVE how TINY it is! I built one way back in the seventies and remember it as HUGE when built, it looks positively shrimpy now! Talk about a shift in perceptions!
Steve, I am TRULY impressed with your work now, and I thought it was pretty amazing in the first place!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Thanks. Now I need to finish it.

It is remarkable how these things shrunk between when we were 12 and now. I visited my childhood home (where I built my first and only other FS) and it had shrunk too.


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## PhilipMarlowe (Jan 23, 2004)

Steve244 said:


> Thanks. Now I need to finish it.
> 
> It is remarkable how these things shrunk between when we were 12 and now. I visited my childhood home (where I built my first and only other FS) and it had shrunk too.


I was literally astounded, and thought I had got ripped off with a smaller import kit till I saw the world on the stand. In my memory of "flying" it around my bedroom it was like three or four times the size it is, I would have bet money a week ago that it was wider than eight inches!


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## botman (Jan 4, 2004)

yes it is kinda small nice kit though. still one of my faves.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

So whats been happening with the Flying sub?


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

*flying sub*



DR. PRETORIOUS said:


> So whats been happening with the Flying sub?


 yes i would like to get one, i wonder if they will reissue them without the uneven roof fit ? :freak:


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

*Steve244 Flying Sub*

Hey steve what has been going on with your flying sub?


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## robster94gt (Feb 5, 2009)

Just found this thread - ever finish the flying sub? Would love to see the finished product. I'm working on one, but am missing a couple of parts. Anybody have any spares? 

Rob


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Welcome to HobbyTalk Rob, man this is an old thread Moebius models is releasing a new Flying Sub kit that is larger & more detailed.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

hmmm this looks like an interesting subject...

If you're up to it I may perform a bit of archeology in the basement this weekend... see what we find down there...


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## Bjgrammy (Feb 16, 2002)

:thumbsup:


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## rossjr (Jun 25, 2001)

I remember seeing this in person at Wonderfest, Oh! so many years ago. I can still never for give Steve for making this. It makes it one of those kits I can never touch because I could never do as good as Steve did..... I hate you!!!!

How are you and your son doing by the way. I haven't seen you since that WF, do you remember work the Make n' Take???


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

hmmmm I'm experiencing several shades of PTSD, but yes I remember! We're alive and living in Kennesaw.

The thing was left unfinished though.

Hi BJ :wave:


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## robster94gt (Feb 5, 2009)

model maker said:


> Welcome to HobbyTalk Rob, man this is an old thread Moebius models is releasing a new Flying Sub kit that is larger & more detailed.


Hey thanks for the welcome - It's good to be here. 

I know about the new kit - very nice. I'm just trying to get this old Aurora kit together myself. Missing one of the round roof beams, among other things...

How far along did that sub come along Steve?

Rob


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Rob, what are you missing? Perhaps I can help.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

robster94gt said:


> How far along did that sub come along Steve?
> 
> Rob


I'm preparing for a dig this weekend.... we shall see what we shall see...


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

*rated PG13 for disturbing images​


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

OUTSTANDING tour Steve, the end had me JUMPING out of my seat, I bet you can't wait to get your hands on the Moebius Flying sub !


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

meh, at my rate if it gets here before 2020 it'll be too soon.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

[crickets...]

Everyone must be getting ready for the Oscars.















And for a limited time.... 



 See how it was done!


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## Bjgrammy (Feb 16, 2002)

Hello Steve.. 
Good to cruse the old stomp'n grounds to see what everyone is up to. Would love to see some of your latest stuff.


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## Nemorosus (Feb 1, 2002)

Once again the unseen "Blair Witch Modeler" claims victims.

Could this be a rare photo of the creature?

http://www.vttbots.com/Graphics/mark_phillips_deadly_creature.jpg

Actually this site also evokes some good (scary) memories..

http://www.vttbots.com/phillips_part1.html


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Latest stuff? 




And now for something completely different:


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## Bjgrammy (Feb 16, 2002)

Very cool....
Who or what got Mike????


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

That would be the Kennesaw [Witch?] Modeller. He (she?, it?) lives in the basement and feeds off glue, paint fumes, and stray teenagers.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Steve244 said:


> It's really simple: buy the LED , attach to a 3.5V source (a pair of AA's will do close enough at 3.0V).
> 
> The thing seems to have current limiting circuitry built into its IC. I've hooked it up to 9V directly for some time. It remained healthy. But I'd be reluctant to close it up in a model that way.
> 
> ...


Nice mod, me likey.
:wave:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Oh, my...poor Mike. But is that little "yellow submarine" safe?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Who's Mike? Sub still lives in my basement frozen in time (2004).


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