# 1/350 Botany Bay question



## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

I know there are at least 2 1/350 Botany Bay kits out there both resin. My question has anyone built either one?

http://www.fantastic-plastic.com/BotanyBayCatalogPage.htm

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/Botany-BayNew-Zealand-from-Spacecraft-Creation_p_1570.html

The Fantastic plastic is $75.00 and Spacecraft Creation kit is about $140.00

The more expensive of the two seems to have more detail. Perhaps too much. On the Cloudstar site the original filming miniture is fairly sparse in detail and is more of a match to the Fantastic Plastic version detail wise. If I'm not mistaken the FP version was originally sold by Soveriegn a while back.

What do you guys think? If anyone has built either I would like to hear any reviews or comments.

Thanks in advance!

Mike


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

I've got a Sovereign one. The FP one looks the same except the cargo boxes are attached in a group instead of individual.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

I have the FP one but unbuilt. I agree, it looks pretty authentic, whereas the SC one has so much stuff going on it just looks nothing like TOS. The issue that I have with the FP kit is with the antenna panels; the detail just isn't possible and flashing pretty much ruins them. They need to be scratch-built using some kind of mesh to look good.


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## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

If FP ever get them back in stock I'll probably buy one but every time I've looked lately they've not had any


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

Proper2 said:


> I have the FP one but unbuilt. I agree, it looks pretty authentic, whereas the SC one has so much stuff going on it just looks nothing like TOS. The issue that I have with the FP kit is with the antenna panels; the detail just isn't possible and flashing pretty much ruins them. They need to be scratch-built using some kind of mesh to look good.



I'm having the same issue and would like to have some PE parts or some fine metal mesh. I ordered some 350 scale ship metal decking, but that grid is much too small to work. Still looking and would love any ideas for something that might work.


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

The FP kit should be available again this week. I sent them an e-mail and was told so yesterday. I have already placed my order. I will replace the 4 panels with scratch built items :thumbsup:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I built REL's kit and did extra panel detailing with paint and pastels:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/bb1.html


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

I got the FP version right before Christmas and built it over the holidays. It is sitting on my bench in primer right now. I agree with some of the comments above. I think it is a good match for the miniature but the radiator panels could be better. It is also missing some small details on the sides of the service/propulsion module. Also, I had to deal with some casting issues. There was a slight twist and bow to the "spine" that carries the pods and I thought the pod section had too many irregularities.

I wound up adding the missing details back to the aft section. I also built a new pod module from scratch out of styrene (a little better but not great), corrected the bow and most of the twist and I made new stand offs for the radiators out of brass rods. I planned to replace the radiator panels but lost steam at that point and decided to live with them. I'd post some pictures I took along the way but I have lost the download cable for my camera.


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

Used brass rod and copper mesh on these. Still need work.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

The problem is the panels are so darn small @ 3/4" x 3/8". I think ideally it's best to carefully cut out the panel interiors and discard them and use something else in their place (don't know what, though). But you have to be careful because the plastic frames are only 1/16" thick.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

An idea on what to replace the grid with is.... screen... like what you use for doors/windows.

That might work.

John, any idea of REL still sells it?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

starmanmm said:


> An idea on what to replace the grid with is.... screen... like what you use for doors/windows.
> 
> That might work.


That's too coarse. Some sort of micro-mesh is needed. But the parts are so small, you need a brain surgeon's hand to cut out the panel interiors from their 1/16" frames and glue on new panels.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Why not use the pylon vent screens from the photoetch set?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Trek Ace said:


> Why not use the pylon vent screens from the photoetch set?


Those might work perfectly. What are the dimensions of those pylon vent screens? The thing is though, you'd have to drop a minimum of $35 for a set of those.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

The 1/350 vent screens are about 0.95" x 0.475".

Since the scale of the _Botany Bay_ miniature was the same as the _Enterprise_, it would be logical that the 1/350 versions should also be the same - hence the screen mesh details should be, too.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Trek Ace said:


> The 1/350 vent screens are about 0.95" x 0.475".
> 
> Since the scale of the _Botany Bay_ miniature was the same as the _Enterprise_, it would be logical that the 1/350 versions should also be the same - hence the screen mesh details should be, too.


Thanks! Yes, absolutely. In fact, I think they did use the same screen material for both studio models as you noted. The only disadvantage, as I said, is having to buy a whole photo etch set at $35-$40 just for the 4 panels.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I'm looking into this kit myself. It would be nice on display with the big E. I went ahead and asked Paul at ParaGraphix if he could offer the antennas, maybe even for a limited time. We'll see what he says, but hopefully we can find an alternative if he can't do it.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Here's the reply I made to Opus ...



Paulbo said:


> Hi Andrew,
> 
> I'm afraid it doesn't make economic sense to create PE sets for garage kits. Given the small production quantities, even optimistically saying I sell to 10% of the people with the kit I'd not be able to recoup the tooling cost without making the set very expensive ... which would reduce the number that would sell.
> 
> ...


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I figured this would be the case. I know tooling costs can be expensive. I will also look into alternatives out there as well.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Opus Penguin said:


> I'm looking into this kit myself. It would be nice on display with the big E. I went ahead and asked Paul at ParaGraphix if he could offer the antennas, maybe even for a limited time. We'll see what he says, but hopefully we can find an alternative if he can't do it.


Considering how simple the antennas are, I suggest you look for generic brass etch or some other set that might work.

There is plenty of stuff out there if you just look.

K&S has different pieces of brass that might work.

I was working on a scratch built 1/32 piece for my nu-BSG hangar dio and needed a 'grate' type pattern and found something that would work from a totally unrelated PE set for a car.

It just takes a little digging.

As a note to Paul,
Paul have you ever considered 'generic' stuff yourself?
As an example, I was looking around for 'diamond plate' but the only examples available that I found were 'plastruct' and the detail was horribly soft.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Proper2


> That's too coarse.


Still, it is a cheap alternative.

Still, maybe going to a fabric shop and finding some sort of mesh material that may still be good enough to replace the mesh.

Coarse or not... the ship is beat up and that may give it a decent look.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

ClubTepes said:


> Considering how simple the antennas are, I suggest you look for generic brass etch or some other set that might work.
> 
> There is plenty of stuff out there if you just look.
> 
> ...


I thought so, too. A while back I had gone to K&S and scoured the place for a generic metal micro-screen or mesh. Believe it or not I found nothing that suited the 11/16 x 5/16 in. solar panel interiors. I think Trek Ace's solution of using the Enterprise photo etch pylon screens is the best one. It's just costly.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

I've seen detail parts in hobby shops that would work for the screens, mesh and photo etch etc. It's just a matter of getting the right size.

Here are a few possibilities:
http://www.squadron.com/product-p/eutp002.htm 

http://www.squadron.com/product-p/eutp006.htm

http://www.squadron.com/product-p/eutp009.htm


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

robn1 said:


> I've seen detail parts in hobby shops that would work for the screens, mesh and photo etch etc. It's just a matter of getting the right size.
> 
> Here are a few possibilities:
> http://www.squadron.com/product-p/eutp002.htm
> ...


They had two of these in stock so I ordered them and will report back if they work on the BB. I'm getting an expensive small collection of PE that doesn't work. Fingers crossed on these.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Calamus said:


> They had two of these in stock so I ordered them and will report back it they work. I'm getting a expensive small collection of PE that doesn't work. Fingers crossed on these.


What do you mean by, "doesn't work"? You mean for the BB specifically?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I used some stock K&S brass mesh to great effect on the Captain Cardboard BotBay. 
Nearly perfect match!









While the CC is distinctly larger (by 2x?) than 1/350, there is a trick you can do with mesh... The common window screen mesh is certainly far too rough, thick and coarse as mentioned. However, almost any fine brass mesh you might find might be considered close enough.

Consider that to make this stock mesh even finer and smaller, one could double-layer and offset it to produce 4x the 'resolution' as seen below. 









The mesh would be twice as thick, but when you are dealing with fine and nearly paper thin margins, that's not so bad a trade off. The depth might add to the character more than a single layer would at a few feet away.









The question becomes, how closely are you going to see it most of the time?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

That does look like a darn near match! I will look into this myself.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Calamus said:


> They had two of these in stock so I ordered them and will report back it they work. I'm getting a expensive small collection of PE that doesn't work. Fingers crossed on these.


Unless this is the only model you will ever build, a collection of brass is an excellent tool to have in your arsenal. It is expensive yes, so few modelers have it piled up for generic use on any other given model. It may sit quietly for long periods of time, but when the moment strikes, you'll have a nice selection of choices. You will find uses for it in any given amount of situations. Or return it or sell it off to make some, most or all of your money back. Price it right and you'll find buyers.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Model Man said:


> While the CC is distinctly larger (by 2x?) than 1/350, there is a trick you can do with mesh...


That's a great tip, but nevertheless, 2x the scale is considerable. That means that that screen that you used would have twice the coarseness on the FP model. Since there is very little detail in this model beyond these solar panels, the eye really goes to them. At least mine does.


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

Proper2 said:


> What do you mean by, "doesn't work"? You mean for the BB specifically?


Yes, just for the BB, the 1/350 warship deck plate mesh I ordered as a first attempt is wonderful, but just too fine to work and look right on the 1/350 BB. I think I'm also going to order the mesh that Tom :wave: mentioned so if the other parts don't work out I'll do the double up/offset trick. This thing has been sitting far to long waiting on a good solution and I really want to get it finished to go with my 1/350 TOS Enterprise.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Trek Ace said:


> The 1/350 [Enterprise pylon] vent screens are about 0.95" x 0.475".
> 
> Since the scale of the _Botany Bay_ miniature was the same as the _Enterprise_, it would be logical that the 1/350 versions should also be the same - hence the screen mesh details should be, too.


I believe the studio builders in fact did use the same exact material for both ships: E pylon vents and BB solar panels. So, if not for the price of $35-$40, it's a no-brainer that these would be the best and most authentic solution to use the PE brass vent screens from the Enterprise MKA009 sheet. You can see how perfect these parts are @ the 7:00 mark of Tom's video. Tom, with your permission? 




Now take a look at the detail pics of the actual studio BB below.

I'm starting to lean towards biting the bullet and getting a set of these, and putting the thorny issue to rest.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Clip


Proper2 said:


> I believe the studio builders in fact did use the same exact material for both ships: E pylon vents and BB solar panels. So, if not for the price of $35-$40, it's a no-brainer that these would be the best and most authentic solution to use the PE brass vent screens from the Enterprise MKA009 sheet...
> Now take a look at the detail pics of the actual studio BB below.
> 
> ...I'm starting to lean towards biting the bullet and getting a set of these, and putting the thorny issue to rest.


Yeah, that would be a near perfect fit. And you'll have spare brass you can use on other models someday. It's not a loss either way. 

That presents a cheap generic solution and a higher priced and properly fine answer. Nice find on those ref pix!


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## abu625 (Jul 4, 2002)

For those of you who are interested, our 1:350 Botany Bay is back in stock!

http://fantastic-plastic.com/BotanyBayCatalogPage.htm


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Definitely interested. Just need to get the funds. Hopefully you don't sell out before I can get one.


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

I ordered mine last week. I emailed them a couple of weeks ago and they told me they would be back in stock soon. Should be on the way....

Mike


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

This being a resin kit, does it have to be treated differently in any way?


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Proper2 said:


> This being a resin kit, does it have to be treated differently in any way?


A bouquet, in _addition _to dinner and a movie.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

But seriously folks.



 Wear a dust mask while sanding.
 Wash the parts thoroughly in dish detergent to remove and mold release left on them.
 Use cyanoacrylate superglue to put it together.
 Paint with model enamels or acrylics as normal (if using acrylics, prime with enamel first. I think it sticks to resin better than acrylic).
 
That's all!


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

Got an e-mail that mine shipped today!

Mike


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

John P said:


> Wash the parts thoroughly in dish detergent to remove and mold release left on them.


As a resin newbie, I cannot stress this enough. I didn't clean my resin Grissom thoroughly and the paint kept lifting off every time I tried to do masking...:tongue:


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Carl_G said:


> As a resin newbie, I cannot stress this enough. I didn't clean my resin Grissom thoroughly and the paint kept lifting off every time I tried to do masking...:tongue:


Scary stuff. Thanks for the advise.

Another question: Anybody know where I can buy the Polar Lights 1:350 photo etch set #MKA009 for $25-30? Best price I can find currently is on Ebay for about $35 incl. s/h.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Proper2 said:


> Scary stuff. Thanks for the advise.
> 
> Another question: Anybody know where I can buy the Polar Lights 1:350 photo etch set #MKA009 for $25-30? Best price I can find currently is on Ebay for about $35 incl. s/h.


Try contacting Burbank House of Hobbies. 818-848-3674

I doubt if they're priced in the $25-30 range, but $30-35 is certainly a given.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Trek Ace said:


> Try contacting Burbank House of Hobbies. 818-848-3674
> 
> I doubt if they're priced in the $25-30 range, but $30-35 is certainly a given.


Thanks! Burbank House of Hobbies would order it and have it in a couple of days @ $34.87 incl. tax so I just went ahead and bought one on Ebay for $34.69 incl. shipping. That way I don't have to take a lunch hour from work to go pick it up.


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

Got my Botany Bay today. This one has alot of clean up to do. Mold parting lines and pour stubs and such. Nothing unusual for some resin kits. No bubbles or resin warts at all. I have to say that I have several Fantastic Plastic kits this one has more clean up than the other kits that I have from them. Still it should build up well. Nice details throughout.

Mike


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

HabuHunter32 said:


> Got my Botany Bay today. This one has alot of clean up to do. Mold parting lines and pour stubs and such. Nothing unusual for some resin kits. No bubbles or resin warts at all. I have to say that I have several Fantastic Plastic kits this one has more clean up than the other kits that I have from them. Still it should build up well. Nice details throughout.
> 
> Mike


Yeah, and get a load of the flashing in and on the solar panels. I'd be interested in how you're going to handle those.


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

This past week I finished my FP DY-100. Here are a few pics of the completed model. Sorry about my poor photography. They are a little dark.



























As I mentioned in an earlier post I had to work on some flaws. The main body was bowed to the side and there was a slight twist as well. I cut the body where the cargo spine connects to the forward section, squared the interface and rejoined them (metal pin and epoxy). I used a little bondo and some sanding to straighten out most of the twist. I also added some missing detail to the aft section on the sides. I decided to live with the radiator panels as they are but I added brass rod standoffs for them. They might be a little too long but they still look alright. I wasn’t happy with the cargo pod so I made a new one from styrene sheet.

I have seen a lot of really nice paint jobs on other renditions of this model with lots of nice added detail (JohnP’s comes to mind). I thought about doing something similar but in the end I decided I wanted to keep the feel of the filming miniature because I plan to display it in formation with the PL big E just like it was in the Space Seed. I used an undercoating of black and a base coat of MM Medium Gray. Then I used fine steel wool to rub through the finish in several places and expose the black. I followed this with some dry-brushed highlights using Tamiya JN Grey and MM Light Ghost Gray. Finally, I went over it with some black, gray and brown pastels. 

This is the first model I have posted at HT and I appreciate the board’s opinions.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

The photos can't be viewed.


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

Here are a couple more detail pics.


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

Well, great. First time I've tried to post photos. I'm using Photobucket. I can see them on the forum. I am using IMG tags. Anyone have any advice?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Would really love to see these but none of my browsers are showing them.

Can you upload them from your desktop using the "Manage Attachments" tab at the bottom of a posting box?


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

Seeing them okay now.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Wow!! Those are great! If you don't mind me using your technique, I would like to do the same on mine. This is really good.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Beautiful! Well done! I like your technique of fine steel wool to rub through the finish. :thumbsup:

Did you say the actual color of the model overall lighter than it looks in the pics?


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## fire91bird (Feb 3, 2008)

Excellent job, sir! Your repair work is excellent and the weathering is quite effective. Looks like it's been in space for a couple of centuries.


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## abu625 (Jul 4, 2002)

Great job. You captured it.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

*Photo Etch Option*

I found an article by Rel on his 1/350 Botney Bay from waaaaaaaaay back...

He stated that he used photo etching from HO scale to replace the screens. It cost him $3 and took about 10 minutes to replace them.


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

Thanks for the kind words folks. Yes, the color is a little lighter than it appears in the photos. I only had my overhead workbench lighting here. I should have added another light as a fill on the sides. Most of the highlighting is not showing up here. Speaking of which, I thought about trying something else for highlights but didn't do it this time. I noticed looking at pictures of the filming model that it had what appeared to be "frosty" patches, maybe a metallic layer. I thought about doing something like that by brushing on some powdered pearl. I might try that on something else.

K&S used to have some meshes available and I managed to pick up a couple but I heard they have been discontinued now. I was thinking we might suggest some SciFi meshes to Paulbo? He currently offers those nice kitbashing Irwin Allen panel faces in two scales no less. He could have a fret of Star Trek meshes and one for Irwin Allen and one for Star Wars maybe. I figured the Trek meshes would just be large rectangles of the same meshes he already worked up for the 1/350 Enterprise.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Just got word my BB shipped. Can't wait to start on it, but it will have to wait until I finish the Big E. For the antennas, I will probably go with everyone else suggestion and get brass rods and another set of the 1:350 E photoetch for the nacelles to use.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I've yet to figure out how that thing is supposed to be propelled.


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## abu625 (Jul 4, 2002)

John P said:


> I've yet to figure out how that thing is supposed to be propelled.



Ion power!


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

John P said:


> I've yet to figure out how that thing is supposed to be propelled.


Looking at the engine components on the back I always assumed it was powered by a Monogram Black Widow T-bucket.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

I just came across the best photos of the original filming model, showing its ruddy coloring: http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/BotanyBay/BotanyBay.htm


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Are you sure that's even been final-painted? Looks like primer with some sanding done on the nose.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

John P said:


> Are you sure that's even been final-painted? Looks like primer with some sanding done on the nose.


Well, these photos appear to be post-series so I would think it is final-painted.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Just received mine today and am looking forward to the build. Sure requires a lot of clean up, but that is just part of the fun!


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

John P said:


> Are you sure that's even been final-painted? Looks like primer with some sanding done on the nose.


I know but those were taken years after the show ended. If you compare them to screen grabs from the show and some behind the scenes studio photos you will see that the patches match up. It does look like they used layering of the colors and careful sanding to produce most of the effects on the model. That's why I tried the black under coat on mine. I was trying to duplicate this effect.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

ffejG said:


> I know but those were taken years after the show ended. If you compare them to screen grabs from the show and some behind the scenes studio photos you will see that the patches match up. It does look like they used layering of the colors and careful sanding to produce most of the effects on the model. That's why I tried the black under coat on mine. I was trying to duplicate this effect.


Right. The only question in my mind is that in the classic studio pictures of the BB in front of the Enterprise, there appears to be a baby powder-like layer of white stuff roughly applied onto the BB model. I don't know if this was a director's frantic, last-minute attempt to alter the color for filming once he tested the look of the ruddy BB next to the E, or if it's the poor quality of the image that gives it that washed out effect. I wonder if anybody would know this.


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## ffejG (Aug 27, 2008)

If you look carefully at those photos from the link above it looks like, to me, that one of the color layers may be a metallic gray. It could be that this layer really shines under the studio lights. I thought about trying a metallic layer as well or to try some pearl powders in patches. Maybe next time.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

ffejG said:


> If you look carefully at those photos from the link above it looks like, to me, that one of the color layers may be a metallic gray. It could be that this layer really shines under the studio lights. I thought about trying a metallic layer as well or to try some pearl powders in patches. Maybe next time.


Maybe, but I don't know...


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

ffejG said:


> If you look carefully at those photos from the link above it looks like, to me, that one of the color layers may be a metallic gray. It could be that this layer really shines under the studio lights. I thought about trying a metallic layer as well or to try some pearl powders in patches. Maybe next time.


We used to make grey paints for sets and props by mixing flat white and silver. The guy who showed us the trick had worked on several tv shows in the 60'sand said they would do it to make the area painted "pop" or stand out when filmed. It could be the same as you shh in the picture.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Would any of these pics help?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/3713940118/in/set-72157619514479789

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/3824622621/in/set-72157619514479789

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/3498026206/in/set-72157619514479789

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/6699269025/in/set-72157619514479789

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/5129689861/in/set-72157619514479789

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/6123067678/in/set-72157619514479789

http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/6699269025/in/set-72157619514479789


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## harryhobby (Feb 7, 2013)

Model Man said:


> Unless this is the only model you will ever build, a collection of brass is an excellent tool to have in your arsenal. It is expensive yes, so few modelers have it piled up for generic use on any other given model. It may sit quietly for long periods of time, but when the moment strikes, you'll have a nice selection of choices. You will find uses for it in any given amount of situations. Or return it or sell it off to make some, most or all of your money back. Price it right and you'll find buyers.


What size brass mesh do you keep in the arsenal? Always wire cloth and not plastic I assume? Is it like a 10x 10 wire mesh as can be seen here: (Belleville Wire Cloth - Cedar Grove NJ - website is bwire .com) Or is it something even finer than a 10 mesh such as a 24 or 32 mesh? Thanks.


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

harryhobby said:


> What size brass mesh do you keep in the arsenal? Always wire cloth and not plastic I assume? Is it like a 10x 10 wire mesh as can be seen here: (Belleville Wire Cloth - Cedar Grove NJ - website is bwire .com) Or is it something even finer than a 10 mesh such as a 24 or 32 mesh? Thanks.


Oh man, could I use some of that wire cloth for another project I'm working on. I only need about six square inches of 20x20 (if that) - not sure if they'd sell that small a quantity...


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

starmanmm said:


> Would any of these pics help?
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/birdofthegalaxy/3713940118/in/set-72157619514479789
> 
> ...


These pics are great examples of how the filming model appears to have been roughly coated with something whitish prior to shooting. (I swear it looks like flour paste!) This white treatment appears to have been largely removed later as post production pictures of the ruddy colored model show. Remember, these are photos taken in the studio. They are not video captures showing what the filmed model looked like on screen. So, I don't think it's simply an effect of the camera in combination with the bright lights.

Unless the model was repainted after production, which makes little sense. Although, I believe the BB model was used on a later episode as well, I can't remember which one. But not sure if it was actually shown and if so if it was filmed anew for that episode.

I wish someone from the show in the know can shed some light on this.


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

robn1 said:


> I've seen detail parts in hobby shops that would work for the screens, mesh and photo etch etc. It's just a matter of getting the right size.
> 
> Here are a few possibilities:
> http://www.squadron.com/product-p/eutp002.htm
> ...


Here are some pics from the 002 and 009 set as referenced above. The 006 set was not in stock. The best match is the Round2 PE set for the TOS enterprise. but either of the 009 or 002 sets above would work as none are a perfect match to the resin part (the Round2 part is perfect except it is one row of holes too narrow) 





























The other section of TOS 350 PE - doesn't match the resin kit part, but check out the original pic after this image -- pretty darn close I say....

So I guess I'm using the Round2 slotted parts below for my radiators.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Thanks for the info.... still, I think I like the look of 009 or 002 (too bad it is out of stock tho). Artistic license is what I will be using on this.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

The slotted grilles are correct for the Botany Bay.


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## harryhobby (Feb 7, 2013)

*Dr Brad - Wire Mesh*

They just sent me a few samples and they worked out ok. I ended up ordering a small piece and paid $102.00.

Not bad.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

harryhobby said:


> They just sent me a few samples and they worked out ok. I ended up ordering a small piece and paid $102.00.
> 
> Not bad.


The Enterprise photo Etch set works best at about $35. And you get 8 of them in case you screw up. See this thread, in which Steve is using them in his client build of the 1:350 BB: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=386431&page=5


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

It has been established that the Botany Bay filming miniature was painted more of a brownish tan than greyish:











So, why does it appear so different not only on screen, but it also appears to have been roughly coated with something whitish prior to shooting as seen in the classic studio pics of it in front of the 11-ft Enterprise:











This "white-grey treatment" appears largely removed as those post production pictures of the ruddy colored model show. And I can't believe that this degree of whiteness is an effect of camera lights in combination with metallic traces on the model paint to show up like that on film. Remember, these classic photos are of the studio—not video captures showing what the filmed model looked like on screen. 

I really wish someone could shed some light on this mystery... 
______

Follow up:

Then, I thought that maybe it was because the after-production pics looked somewhat tinted too yellow/red, so I color-corrected one in Photoshop to what I thought was probably a more correct, natural hue overall for the pic... And still it looked brown... just a wee tad closer to grey maybe, but still nothing like what appears in the studio pics:


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

Looks tan in these shots but maybe a little chalky?

http://cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/BotanyBay/bb17.jpg
http://cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/BotanyBay/bb18.jpg


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

beeblebrox said:


> Looks tan in these shots but maybe a little chalky?
> 
> http://cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/BotanyBay/bb17.jpg
> http://cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/BotanyBay/bb18.jpg


Yeah, the only thing I can wrap my head around is that there was some sort of chalky/silvery coat of something put on the miniature for filming that later wore off. Hence it doesn't appear on the post production pics that we see except for traces here and there.

Now, I know the same model was used for a later episode, "The Ultimate Computer," and it appears more brown on-screen there than on "Space Seed." The questions then arise:

1) Was the model painted with a new coat of brown for that later episode? 

Or

2) Had much of the silvery stuff fallen off or wiped off the model by then?

OR

3) Did "The Ultimate Computer" just use footage already shot for "Space Seed" and the model hadn't been re-filmed at all?

Anybody?


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