# Seaview Upgrade Suggestion



## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

I didn't want this to get Lost in the half a dozen Seaview threads, So I hope it's ok to post it here.

A suggestion for a "replacement Viewport Glass". The supplied Glass is good but As I posted in my thread, When Viewing the interior, it give the "Fish Bowl" Effect.

With my interior lights and Detail I WANT to see everything inside. Of Course the simple soloution is just cut some Clear plastic,(which I did), But it doesen't have the Professional Look I wanted.

Just a thought to the guys making all the aftermarket stuff:thumbsup:

High Regards,
BEATLEPAUL


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## WarpeD (May 28, 2007)

I'm planning on using the clear plastic from a new CD case. The important thing is that at least two edges must be parallel for this to work, and those edges are the top and bottom sills. For some reason, the kit has a kind of "bow-tie" effect when viewing the windows from the front. This must be cured for flat panes to work.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

WarpeD said:


> I'm planning on using the clear plastic from a new CD case. The important thing is that at least two edges must be parallel for this to work, and those edges are the top and bottom sills. For some reason, the kit has a kind of "bow-tie" effect when viewing the windows from the front. This must be cured for flat panes to work.


Great Idea, but I think the supplied Glass needs to be recast. Its either too thick or something else.....

Again it stinks because you can't see all that Detail work:freak:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

beatlepaul said:


> Great Idea, but I think the supplied Glass needs to be recast. Its either too thick or something else.....
> 
> Again it stinks because you can't see all that Detail work:freak:


There is no need for a recast... the prop windows were flat not curved like the kit windows.

You can put some thick clear plastic into the kit openings, and fill the edges with CA glue. Polishing the joints out is easy and a coat of Future will make the glass much more clear than it was before you put the windows in. Be sure to clean the inside too!


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Maybe some simple clear plastic from just about any packaging would work? it's thin enough to be bent any which way we could want, and it should be distortion free.


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## Gilusions (Apr 25, 2006)

Is it possible if the windows are vacuum-form that since it will be thinner it might get rid of the fish bowl look to it. I have done it for car windshields with very good results. I have to do a bunch of dome for the Spindrift Maybe I try a few and see how they look.

Gil

WWW.justanillusion.biz


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

I'm going to try it out both ways. It's easy enough to take a sheet of PEET cut just a bit larger than the window and bend it around the curve of the nose. This'll reflect the miniature's straight sided windows. If that looks too clunky for whatever reason, I'm going to glue the windows to the 17 footer nose piece, sand down the raised frame and use that as the form for vacuforming a dished piece that should slip in behind the window openings pretty tightly.


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Gilusions said:


> Is it possible if the windows are vacuum-form that since it will be thinner it might get rid of the fish bowl look to it. I have done it for car windshields with very good results. I have to do a bunch of dome for the Spindrift Maybe I try a few and see how they look.
> 
> Gil
> 
> WWW.justanillusion.biz


 
That's the idea I had! I've got resin cast versions of the windows curing right now. Tomorrow I'll try vacuum-forming them and see if that works. In theory I should get nice thin windows that won't have the distortion effect of the styrene pieces.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Capt. Krik said:


> That's the idea I had! I've got resin cast versions of the windows curing right now. Tomorrow I'll try vacuum-forming them and see if that works. In theory I should get nice thin windows that won't have the distortion effect of the styrene pieces.


Hey Capt.

Let me know how you make out. Sounds like a good Idea.

BP.


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Just pulled the resin copies from their mold. They turned out fine. Smooth and no air bubbles. The next part is the tough part for me, the vacu-forming. I always seem to mess up a few sheets before I get a decent one. I'll have to wait until this afternoon to do it though. Got too many errands to run this morning.

I'll let you know how they turn out.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I made a vac copy and it seems fine... I used my kit windows in my sub, so I made a fairly reasonable replacement with some thick sheet styrene. I drilled a couple small holes down the middle, where the window frame would go, to allow air to draw the part down better. If you make a copy over the kit part, it will be, obviously, slightly larger and wont fit the kit frames very well. But if you sand the edges down a bit, or make a new master form, its not a big deal. I use one of those old 60s Mattel machines.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

I like to be able to see any detail work i do, so i hope this can be fixed.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

model maker said:


> I like to be able to see any detail work i do, so i hope this can be fixed.


I recently recieved some "expert" advice on a solution to this Bert. Once I do it. I'll post pics.:thumbsup:

BP


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

beatlepaul said:


> Great Idea, but I think the supplied Glass needs to be recast. Its either too thick or something else.....
> 
> Again it stinks because you can't see all that Detail work:freak:


How about using .020 clear styrene sheet, and do up some decals with just a bit of "shadow" and windowframe on them -- you could just apply each panel to each window? That would be a cool effect, cheap, and easy to do!

--Henry


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## Gilusions (Apr 25, 2006)

I wanted to ask an opinion. I was thinking on doing the front girders for the Seaview in white metal. or will it be fine painting it in sliver? I might include it on the second generation of my lighting kit if there is enough interest. Or as a separate kit.

Gil

www.justanillusion.biz


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I don't really see any advantage to using white metal for them, but others might see an advantage.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I dont see any need for metal. New girders that are more accurate might be useful. If they can be cast in metal easier or cheaper than resin, then thats fine. But resin casting is probably more common nowdays than spincasting for metal parts.


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## Argonaut (Feb 11, 2007)

Either way...count me in! Still waiting for all the aftermarket goodies
before I start my build.


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

Is anyone actually making the plug for the 17-foot proportion/length?


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

jbond said:


> Is anyone actually making the plug for the 17-foot proportion/length?


 
YES.

http://www.culttvman.biz/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=7303069&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Finally got the vacu-formed windows made this morning. Got it right the first time, must be firing on all cylinders this morning. They came out better than I hoped. Test fit seems fine, they fit nice and snug into the window cavities. Going to give them a coat of Future and put them aside until they're needed. Nice and clear and no fisheye effect. This is what I was hoping for.

Now to sort out the wiring for the LEDs.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I'll bet a few of us here would like a set of those as well... (hint hint!) you could probably even ship them in a padded envelope as well, so shipping would even be cheap (hint, hint!)


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Do you want the windows to fit snugly into the window cavity? Remember there were crash doors (that actually closed on the 8') that closed in a space between the hull and the windows. Also, as has been mentioned, the glass in each window was flat, not curved. 
Why are there engravings for landing gear on the FS when no landing gear was ever seen, awhile there are no engravings for the forward torpedo tubes on the bottom of the Seaview, while she was always seen firing torpedos (from mystery tubes)?
And while there is talk about plugs to bring her to better proportions, why not extend her a hull diameter and a half for the space she would need behind the missile tubes and fwd of the reactors for the open space in the aft missile room above mini-sub hatch, presumably below cargo loading doors? Make one sweet diorama with cargo hatches open with the aft missile room visible below. 
I haven't seen the model in real life yet, but are there really square shapes attached to the missle hatches on deck? If so, what are they supposed to represent?


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Starseeker, IA stuff was always very "tardis".. the interior never fit inside the exterior model, same with the Jupiter II, and the flying sub as well. You'd go insane trying to accomodate all the interior stuff and modifying the model to attempt it.


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Indeed. The Flying Sub was always a different scale from the Seaview that berthed it. As was the diving bell.


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

gareee said:


> I'll bet a few of us here would like a set of those as well... (hint hint!) you could probably even ship them in a padded envelope as well, so shipping would even be cheap (hint, hint!)


Truthfully, I seriously considered doing this. My big problems are:

1. Lack of time. I work a 40+ hour week while also doing commisioned builds on the side.

2. I'm really not set up to mass produce this stuff. Just have a dinky little Vacuform set up for pieces I need in my build ups.

3. Not really set up in anyway to take orders or payments. The clients I do build for are mostly locals who pay in cash or certified check.

I'm not saying I'm ruling this out all together. If I can find the time to set up a way for people to pay me and set up some kind of schedule for producing, packing and mailing this stuff out I would do it.

This is something I might discuss with Steve Iverson. If he's interested in carrying an item like this in his CultTVman hobby shop and I can come up with some kind of production schedule then it may happen. I'll let you know if this is going to happen. 

At this point I don't want to make any promises I can't fulfill.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Don't blame ya, but thanks for considering it!


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

gareee said:


> Don't blame ya, but thanks for considering it!


I haven't abandoned the idea. I just really need to sit down and start figuring costs and see if anyone would be interested in distributing the pieces.

If I can work up a practical production schedule that fits into my somewhat limited schedule I just may do it.

More on this later.


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## solex227 (Apr 23, 2008)

Capt. Krik said:


> I haven't abandoned the idea. I just really need to sit down and start figuring costs and see if anyone would be interested in distributing the pieces.
> 
> If I can work up a practical production schedule that fits into my somewhat limited schedule I just may do it.
> 
> More on this later.


well Im interested Capt. Kirk if you decide to take this mission.. Ill take 2 :thumbsup:


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

a while back y'all were discussing alternates to the clear pieces for the windows. I remember when I built the Raptor kit and I used chunks of clear blister plastic to replase the stock Vacuformed piece.

So I dug some out (I save everything, it's a curse) and cut it to shape. The best part was having the alternate nose piece to use for test fitting.

it was flexible enought that i could just tape it into place with the same silver tape that I used for lightblock and BINGO! no fisheye distortion. 

the pics don't really do it justice, cuz the autofocus kept focusing on the wrong thing, and the relection on the third one is my fault, but I highly recommend this as a good, cheap alternative to using the stock part, especially if you want to show off your interior.

cheers


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

That looks great, Lou, and will probably be my solution as well. If you have future floor wax, if you coat it with that before installing it, you might get a "clearer" appearance to it.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

yup, I got the Future all lined up..

I will coat the inside as the last thing I do before I seal her up (no dust)

then after I finish work on the hull, I'll coat the outside.

the funny thing is that there are so many things I've said I'll save for last, that I'll never be done:freak:


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