# Snowking carb rebuild questions



## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

I got the official Tech. rebuild kit for the 10 hp Techumseh snow king L-head engine in my Ariens snow blower. The underside of the carb above the bowl is prety rusted on the welch plug. Should I go ahead and replace it since i have a replacement in the rebuild kit? How do I go about doing that?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You can if you like. Just take a small chisel and punch a hole through the plug and pry it up and out. Set the new plug in place and flatten it out with a punch and hammer to hold it in place. This plug is basically just a splash cover over the bowl vent on the carburetor.


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

*Dosn't do much*

Got, ya, so some surface rust will not hurt it. Thanks for the info once again.:thumbsup:


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

*leaking worse now!*

I rebuilt the carb but the seat for the float valve turned a bit when I tried to seat it! I can't pull it out without destroying it. And it will not seat propertly now!! Can I just buy that seal or do i need to buy the whole kit again??


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I have been able to get many seats back out with no damage. Try using a toothpick and see if you can work it loose, or try blowing it out with compressed air and catching the seat in a rag.

Good Luck...


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

Got compressed air trying that first. It is pretty far in there I think the toothpick will not work.


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## Lawnmowertech (Nov 12, 2008)

shortlid said:


> Got compressed air trying that first. It is pretty far in there I think the toothpick will not work.


did you get this taken care of yet ? ? did the compressed air work ?


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## trouts2 (Mar 11, 2008)

The factory tool for removing the needle valve seat is a small crochet like tool. It's a 7 inch long thin rod with a dull hook at the end to grab the seat. The other end is stepped with the final step size the size of the hole in the seat. 

Without out a tool they can be worked out by working them up with a straight rod. The seats are pretty robust and don't break. 

Going back in put the ribbed side in first.
David


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

Thanks the compressed air worked great the ribbed side up was the trick!!

BUT NOW!! now the carb stoped leaking but the engine will not start without the help of starter fluid! it then only runs with the carb on full, after a while it shuts diown and again will not start without starter fluid!! Is the main jet adjustment off on the bottom of the bowl??


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

Sounds like the main jet is obstructed. Did you clean the small orifices in the bowl nut? If the bowl nut has the high speed adjustment screw in it then yes this needs adjustment. Initially 11/2 turns from closed posisition, may require final tweeking with engine at full throttle, choke off. 
Dean


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

*Maybe, but new?*

I replaced it with new one but I will try the old one.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

trouts2 said:


> The factory tool for removing the needle valve seat is a small crochet like tool. It's a 7 inch long thin rod with a dull hook at the end to grab the seat. The other end is stepped with the final step size the size of the hole in the seat.
> 
> Without out a tool they can be worked out by working them up with a straight rod. The seats are pretty robust and don't break.
> 
> ...


I have one, and it doesn't just look like a crochet hook, it is one - just like momma used to have! I only bought the tool because I used to use old B&S point plungers to install the seats, and a tack hammer (to tap on the plunger) - - - since we don't do points anymore, that source dried up. I too use air to remove them. The tool is cheap ($7.00?) and well worth buying if you do much carb. work.


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## Lawnmowertech (Nov 12, 2008)

paulr44 said:


> I have one, and it doesn't just look like a crochet hook, it is one - just like momma used to have! I only bought the tool because I used to use old B&S point plungers to install the seats, and a tack hammer (to tap on the plunger) - - - since we don't do points anymore, that source dried up. I too use air to remove them. The tool is cheap ($7.00?) and well worth buying if you do much carb. work.


i still use the point plunger i find it easier to use that method


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

I have two B&S point plungers left in my toolbox, but I break them sometimes when tapping them with the tackhammer. Maybe I'm nostalgic...


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

*Starts great in warm weather cold not as much?*

OK, well after the rebuild and stock tune. The Snow king starts first pull in warm weather but as soon as it get sbellow say 390 degrees it starts being fussy even at full choke with primer bulb? Also I can only use full through half throdle now lowwer than that and it stalls?


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## hd4ou (Aug 25, 2009)

shortlid said:


> Thanks the compressed air worked great the ribbed side up was the trick!!


the ribbed side should go in the hole first. is that what you did? also did you set your float level?


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

*Thanks*

Ribbed side in first yep. How do you adjust the float?


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## hd4ou (Aug 25, 2009)

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

page 19. illustration 39


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

Thanks


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

Got it running, thanks for all the help. Starts right up. But when choke is off the engine pops when not under load. Also at night I can see the middle of the muffler glowing!


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## dj722000 (Oct 29, 2008)

Sounds like your running a little on the rich side. When the engine goes under load, it uses up the excess fuel it was delivering. When not under load, the engine pops because there is to much fuel and its not being used. Still needs some minor adjustments to correct it. Muffler should be hot, but not glowing.

Now on most snow blowers I have worked on, when not under load and just ideling or high idle, it will studder a little bit until it goes under load, but it should not pop. They run them a little richer because of the colder air.


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## shortlid (May 9, 2005)

OK where and how do yousugest I adjust this carb.


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