# Need a few car-specific pointers



## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

I'm no stranger to model building, but it has been a long time since I built a car. Now my brother -- who knows far less about building models of any sort than I do -- wants me to help him build the AMT 2011 Camaro Convertible. He has a 1:1 of the same car, and wants to match his real ride as closely as possible.

It's a curbside kit, which is probably a good thing for both of us. Also, he has the ultimate source for reference. But there are still some things I know can be done better than might occur to him OOB, but I'm not as sure when it comes to _how_. 

For example, I presume there's a better way to simulate disc brakes than the pieces in the kit. My best thought is the idea of finding a metal washer the right size, giving it a circular brushed texture with a Dremel or some such, and adding the calipers from the kit pieces.

Regarding the emblems/badges/nameplates -- what's the best way of dealing with those? I know of Bare Metal Foil, but can someone either tell me how to use it for this purpose or point me to a resource that will explain a method he or I could use?

Also, the wheels on the 1:1 car are a match for those in the kit, except they're chromed in the kit. The real car's wheels have more of a polished steel or aluminum appearance. Is there a way to get them close to that look that doesn't involve an airbrush? I don't have access to mine right now, and he's not ready to buy one yet, though he might decide to do so later.

He wants to use the Dupli-Color paint that matches his car (Victory Red) for the body. I've already told him he needs to prime it carefully using an automotive sandable primer, as I suspect the Dupli-Color would attack the plastic otherwise, but is there a good tutorial on how to get a high-gloss finish with that paint? 

Finally, dumb question of the day ... what is the go-to method for attaching tires to wheels? I just used tube glue back in the day, but it never seemed all that great a solution ...

Might have more questions later ...

Qapla'

SSB


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

As for the wheels, soak the parts in some chlorine bleach for a few hours, that should dissolve the chrome off, then paint them with steel or aluminum, either are available in a rattlecan.

I've never glued tires to rims, once there on the rim they usually stay put, but if I did I would use white glue, it's easier to clean up and won't attack the paint.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Or instead of soaking the wheels in bleach you could just apply some flat clear to them in order for them to look like aluminum. Try some on a chromed piece of sprue.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

irishtrek said:


> Or instead of soaking the wheels in bleach you could just apply some flat clear to them in order for them to look like aluminum. Try some on a chromed piece of sprue.


That had crossed my mind -- I was actually thinking of a satin clear, maybe after a light coat of Testors window-tinting spray (or just a wash made from lightly tinted Future). I think regular metallic paint would be a step in the wrong direction in this particular case. The 1:1 wheels are polished to a _near_ chrome look.

Qapla'

SSB


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Anyone know what color primer would be most likely to have been used on the 1:1 car in "Victory Red"?

Qapla'

SSB


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

SSB,

PLEASE go look at my "garage" here in this fourm, I address most of these problems from the wheels to the disk brakes. Or you can visit my YouTube channel under "The Daily Driver". I post video tips here as well. 

As for the scripts the Revell Camaro provides a decal for them, if the AMT has a raised script here's what I used to do LOOOONG ago:

Before you paint, apply 2 layers of Bare Metal Foil over the script and burnish it down well. Go back and trim the excess from around the script and paint as usual. When the paint is dry take some 6000 grit wet-or-dry and wrap it around the end of a wedge shaped pencil eraser, to that the point of the eraser has the abrasive. Then, VERY CAREFULLY under a LOT of water, gently sand away your paint over the script. Check your work every 15 seconds or so, in a couple of minutes you will see the chrome script showing through. 

I did a Revell 1969 Camaro about 16 years ago this way, it's on my YouTube channel and it looks great. Just be sure to use light to medium pressure. Trust me, I will work if you have patience. 

For the disks I would suggest just use a chrome or gloss silver paint. I use an Aluminum Plate Testors Metalizer, I just dip the disks in the bottle after I shake it up, let the excess drain and once dry, buff.

For the Victory Red, if an exact color is what you want I'm sure your local dealership sells rattle cans for touch ups. And you brother will appreciate having the rest of the can for the scratches he'll pick up as he goes along.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

SSB, are you using acrylics or enamel paints??? If you're using acrylics then before you apply them to the bare plastic put on a coat of Future floor polish because if you don't the paint will come off sooner or later and I discovered over a year ago that if I apply a coat of Future then the acrylic paint will stick to the plastic.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

irishtrek said:


> SSB, are you using acrylics or enamel paints??? If you're using acrylics then before you apply them to the bare plastic put on a coat of Future floor polish because if you don't the paint will come off sooner or later and I discovered over a year ago that if I apply a coat of Future then the acrylic paint will stick to the plastic.


I prefer enamels for the most part, and that's the way I'll steer my brother. But ultimately it will be up to him. I'll pass on the advice to him.

Qapla'

SSB


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Pete McKay said:


> PLEASE go look at my "garage" here in this fourm, I address most of these problems from the wheels to the disk brakes. Or you can visit my YouTube channel under "The Daily Driver". I post video tips here as well.


Okay — I'm reading through the thread. Lots of information there! Wish I had time to just sit there and read it beginning to end, but my two little boys give me an average of five minutes before they make some request that requires me to get up …


Pete McKay said:


> Before you paint, apply 2 layers of Bare Metal Foil over the script and burnish it down well. Go back and trim the excess from around the script and paint as usual. When the paint is dry take some 6000 grit wet-or-dry and wrap it around the end of a wedge shaped pencil eraser, to that the point of the eraser has the abrasive. Then, VERY CAREFULLY under a LOT of water, gently sand away your paint over the script. Check your work every 15 seconds or so, in a couple of minutes you will see the chrome script showing through.


I had read a variation on this technique, but this explains it pretty well. Thanks! 


Pete McKay said:


> For the disks I would suggest just use a chrome or gloss silver paint. I use an Aluminum Plate Testors Metalizer, I just dip the disks in the bottle after I shake it up, let the excess drain and once dry, buff.


I may have some of that Metalizer on hand — I'll have to check.


Pete McKay said:


> For the Victory Red, if an exact color is what you want I'm sure your local dealership sells rattle cans for touch ups. And you brother will appreciate having the rest of the can for the scratches he'll pick up as he goes along.


I had mentioned to him as one possibility, and the Dupli-Color version as an alternate. It'll be up to him as to which he wants to buy, but I'll reiterate the choice to him.

Anyone know what color primer would have likely been used on the real car under Victory Red?

Qapla'

SSB


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

SBB, usually for current GM I believe they still use a white zinc primer. I did a frame off restore of a late '60's Chevelle that was Garnet Red and it had a sort of red oxide as a primer. I think the white would offer a more neutral base but test it out with the Duplicolor if you go that route, it doesn't play well with regular model paints.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Pete McKay said:


> SBB, usually for current GM I believe they still use a white zinc primer. I did a frame off restore of a late '60's Chevelle that was Garnet Red and it had a sort of red oxide as a primer. I think the white would offer a more neutral base but test it out with the Duplicolor if you go that route, it doesn't play well with regular model paints.


Okay; I've already advised my brother that he should get a styrene "For Sale" sign and hit it with all the suspect primers side-by-side, followed by the Dupli-Color paint across the board and then compare to the 1:1. He'll be using a rattle-can, automotive sandable primer.

Qapla'

SSB


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

SSB, for paint testing I'll use stuff from the junk yard or the plastic tree from the kit too.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Pete McKay said:


> SSB, for paint testing I'll use stuff from the junk yard or the plastic tree from the kit too.


I would have suggested that, as it's what I would have done as well. But he doesn't have a junk yard yet, and I gave him a couple of 97¢ For Sale signs to use.

Qapla'

SSB


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