# Chainsaw won't turn over correctly after stalling. 2-cycle



## treefella (Sep 15, 2010)

Hi, I started this thread requesting help diagnosing an operating problem in the General section of small engine repair but now see that this is probably where I should be so please forgive the duplication if you've already been there.
The saw is a Gardenline GPCS-42cc, possibly made by Wolf, distributed by Ferm Netherlands and sold through Aldi.
I snagged some greenery, the chain came off and the engine stalled. After reassembly the pull cord won't turn the engine over properly, it jerks / kicks back and naturally won't start the engine. It will turn the engine over smoothly with no resistance if the spark plug is removed. The chain brake has been removed, the cup on which the chain brake would normally bind and the chain sprocket are spinning independently of the clutch. The engine can be turned over smoothly with a spanner on the clutch assembly shaft nut. The fly wheel is located correctly on the shaft as the key did nor shear. 
If anyone can save me from junking the saw I'll be very grateful !


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

The symptom of it jerking & kicking back is indicative of a timing issue, so a sheared or bent flywheel key is usually the culprit. You mention the key isn't sheared - not to say it has to be that but that's pretty much the only thing that provides that symptom. I have seen crankshafts twist, but usually the engine will still run okay unless the flywheel is dragging on the ign. coil. On the other hand, that jerking-kicking back symptom could also be an indication of the clutch not being tight (on the crankshaft) anymore. You need to have enough rotating mass to get an engine to push through the compression stroke else that resistance feeds back through the recoil. Try pulling a lawnmower engine over without the blade mounted - you'll see. No other thoughts right now.
Paul


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## treefella (Sep 15, 2010)

Hi paulr44 and thank you for the reply. I now seem to have covered every possibility and still can't find a solution. The flwheel and key are fine, the crankshaft and connecting rod appear to be straight and everything rotates smoothly on the bearings. The cylinder wall and piston are not scored. The clutch was secured firmly. There really doesn't seem to be any explanation as to why the engine won't turn smoothly (unless the spark plug is removed).


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

If the chain was wedged between the clutch and engine when it came off,could it have collapsed the bearing and or seal on the flywheel side of the engine and now the flywheel is draging on the housing/engine block? Does the recoil assembly rotate smoothly when removed from the engine? Paulr44 (hoorah 69-73)covered the most likely trouble spots.


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## treefella (Sep 15, 2010)

Thanks to all who have contributed to the thread I have now got the saw working again. Paulr44 suggested the clutch could be at fault. I prised the counterweights apart and lubricated the mechanism. The next time I pulled the cord there was less compression, tried it several times more and now the engine turns over as it should. Having examined every other component for problems without discovering any it does seem as though a malfunctioning clutch was preventing the engine from being turned over.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Kinda sounds like the clutch was stuck "engaged," perhaps from relaxed or broken springs, and possibly the chain brake was on. Seen that too, usually when a meltdown occurs from running with the brake on. Paul


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