# split post



## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

I know this may have come up before. can and how do you fix split screw posts on AFX bodys so you can race them again. Thank for any help you can give me.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Well some other people may have other ideas but, here is mine till those other people come along.

How I would fix it: I would use my plastic home made goop (everyone should have a few bottles of plastic goop sitting around as it is the Stuff man) and put it on the post to fill in the crack. If this isn't a fix for cosmetics then go ahead an add a bit extra around the post, keeping in mind that the body will have to fit back on so, don't go crazy.

Then walk away after making it look as nice as possible till it cures. 

Then I would take my hand drill (the type you spin in your fingers) and drill out the hole a bit smaller than the screw threads. 

Now screw in screw and go race.

If you don't have any goop J.B. Weld could work maybe...the stuff that dries in 5 min. is the best!

This is just my said opinion and some one else (still waiting) may have a different view on this. 

Bob...zillla


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Repair a slightly cracked existing post?...or fix a 'sploded post via the organ donor transplant program? There's a lot of difference between a hairline split and one that's grenaded. 

Got any pics Bill? I've got most colors of plastic goop in stock and a fair amount of donor posts. There's lot's of good ways to fix screw posts out there. I just prefer original plastic and color. 

Please provide: model, color, and condition/damage and I'll give ya a straight answer.


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

I use expoxy... works well for me


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## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

Thanks guys, I have not got the bodys yet, just won them on ebay(#130208434652 sorry don't know how to post a pic). from the pics it looks like they are just split. The goop you guys are talking about; how do you make it?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

41, A very nice looking lot ...from this angle anyway

Goop= liquid repair plastic. Made from other bodies of the same plastic.

Choose color, clean it and then shred body into chips with *****. Do not use PAINTED or GLUED areas. Those are contaminents!

Purchase Testors 3502 plastic cement. Transfer contents to other safe, clean container for re-use. Add chipped plastic to the empty testors jar. Add just enough liquid testors to cover the chips. Seal it with the orignal lid and walk away for 24hrs. A stir or two never hurts.

The plastic becomes a sticky liquid. Thats yer bondo. Use the existing applicator brush or any decent brush that suits. Thin the material with more testors to get a cosistency that suits the repair situation. I thin goop by at least 50% for simple post repairs crack. A small hand mirror works good for a mud board to mix lil repairs on. For small areas I use a 00 brush.

AWAYS have the screw IN when repairing cracks! 

Seen below is a screw post transplant.


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## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

Bill 
the broken post in the first pic, can the goop fix that instead of a transplant.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Grenaded posts....Plan B*

Certainly!

For rare bodies, where a transplant post of the correct color is not available; the "Yosemitie Sam" exploded screwpost is first rough profiled to its original diameter by sanding the outside. (More on that below)

It is important to "box the compass" in this stage. Check that the chassis aligns in both the north to south and east to west axis. Dont want the wheels cockeyed in the wells! 

The center bore is cleaned using a dremel burr on LOW speed. Gotta get the grease and crud out, including any glue or goober from any previous repair attempts (contaminents). It is then completely filled and built back up. After it has set for a couple hours a sewing pin is use to poke a hole in the center of the rebuilt post. This serves as a vent for curing, and a pilot to assist drilling the new screw hole.

The external surface is sanded to it's proper shape and the post to chassis mounting surface/lip is checked for flat... adjusted to level if required. Then the the hole shebang is glazed to feather the repair into the body. As seen in the second picture.

Note from above: I use a home made post sanding tool that resembles a sanding barrel, except it's inside out. Simply made from a piece of metal tube stock, a snip of sand paper, and masking tape. Takes about 3 minutes to make, and works SUPER. Chucks right in the cordless drill and profiles the external surface of the post in seconds. I have one in every grit.

Once re-profiled and cured 2 to 4 days, the pilot/vent hole is carefully drilled out to 1/16. I do this in two steps in an effort to stay centered.

Time wise the transplant is my preferred method, but is not always possible.
So the plan "B" method is used.

It all boils down to, "Do you want a color matched restoration or run and gun
epoxy repair?" It all depends on the car! I'm a knuckle head (dad was right!). I think all old school injection molded bodies should be repaired to near original condition.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag thanks someone else....*

Bill Hall,

You were the someone else I had in mind...nice explination....very nice! 

Bob...zilla


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