# WIP Pegasus Martian War Machine with Voodoo FX Lighting kit



## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I'm in the very beginning stages of building this kit, which will also be my first foray into lighting a model (I don't have pictures yet as I have very little done on this kit). I received the lighting kit from Voodoo and have already begun the soldering process. This the second time I've soldered anything in my life, but I must say it's a relatively simple process and I'm happy with the instructions included by Voodoo in the lighting kit.

I need some advice on another aspect. I am not going to use the stand that came with the original kit. What I would like to do instead is use a hollow piece of brass tubing and affix the top end into the kit and the bottom end into a display board of some sort (I'm tempted to create a diorama to replicate a scene from the 1953 film, but I haven't fully committed to that yet!) But here's my question: what is the best type of stand I can build from scratch that will allow me to run wiring into the kit (the power will be in the base where it will be more accessible)? I have very little experience building a custom stand and the one I built for my Battle-Damaged Reliant is one that I'm not at all happy with. 

Can someone give me advice? What is the best way to build a custom stand for a lighted model?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

You could use a picture frame like this:
















That gives you lots of room for all the electronic doo-hickeys.
Or, you could make one out of plaster of paris and a simple mold( I save plastic packaging for molds)
























The plaster of paris ones can be as simple or as complex as you want. I hollow out the bottom of the base with a router bit in my dremel.

Steve


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I've seen the picture-frame idea before and I'm considering that. So what is the best way to attach the rod to the kit itself? This is a model of a "hovering" war machine, so there are no legs holding it up. I want it to be stable and I don't see how sticking a rod into a hole in the bottom of the model will make it stable (the last thing I want is for it to fall off the rod and break). Ideas?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Lots of ways to attach the supporting rod. 
Take a piece of brass tubing slightly larger than the rod coming out of the base, so they fit inside each other..and glue the socket or female rod inside your kit. or, hot glue the rod to the ship(this way you can change your mind)
or two part epoxy the rod inside the base.








This supporting rod is anchored into the figure and the base with two part milliput epoxy putty.

Steve


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

steve123 said:


> Lots of ways to attach the supporting rod.
> Take a piece of brass tubing slightly larger than the rod coming out of the base, so they fit inside each other..and glue the socket or female rod inside your kit. or, hot glue the rod to the ship(this way you can change your mind)
> or two part epoxy the rod inside the base.
> 
> ...


I did something similar with my battle-damaged Reliant model (except I used square tubing.) I know I've seen others go the "nuts and bolts" route, but I don't know exactly what the makeup of their stands are.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

If you can figure out which end of the tube the glue comes out of, you probably can figure this out. I've shown you several examples...it's not rocket surgery.

Try something, and if it dosen't work ask again...

Steve


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

steve123 said:


> If you can figure out which end of the tube the glue comes out of, you probably can figure this out. I've shown you several examples...it's not rocket surgery.
> 
> Try something, and if it dosen't work ask again...
> 
> Steve


Steve, no need to be a douche. It's not rocket surgery but there are some who build stands that are built with more than glue and brass tubing. No need to be offended that I'd like input from other modelers.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I think we could better help you after you decide on what you want your base to replicate. Decide wether you want a field or open area type display, or the ship hovering over a destroyed building, floating in space, over a sidewalk, etc. With the MWM there are several ways in which you can dispaly it while hiding the power lines going to the model. 

When I get around to it I am doing a lighted 1/144 MWM that is just past a treee heading toward an HO farm house. The tree has a brass rod that supports the ship and the wires are wrapped around the trunk and hidden. The ship and attached tree are done, I just need to finish the base.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

robiwon said:


> I think we could better help you after you decide on what you want your base to replicate. Decide wether you want a field or open area type display, or the ship hovering over a destroyed building, floating in space, over a sidewalk, etc. With the MWM there are several ways in which you can dispaly it while hiding the power lines going to the model.
> 
> When I get around to it I am doing a lighted 1/144 MWM that is just past a treee heading toward an HO farm house. The tree has a brass rod that supports the ship and the wires are wrapped around the trunk and hidden. The ship and attached tree are done, I just need to finish the base.


I'll eat crow for not explaining myself properly before. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go the hollow brass tube route, as its stable and I can run the wires through the inside of the tube into the model. What I'm trying to figure out is how do modelers attach a brass tube to a model WITHOUT using glue, epoxy, etc. I want a stand that will allow me to remove the model from the base with relative ease if I need to change a burned out LED, etc. Does that make sense? I've seen guys use something that essentially look like nuts and bolts, so I'm trying to figure out specifically what they did.

As for hiding the stand in trees or buildings, that's something I'll worry about when I design the diorama. I will likely have a tree as the scene I'm thinking of displaying is that of a MWM vs a couple of US army vehicles (complete with remnants of 3 hapless deputies waving a white flag).

Regarding Steve's builds, they are fantastic! I love the way he has the astronaut "floating" in space. But its just not appropriate for what I'm trying to do.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

This is the pic I should have showed.
I think I might try thinner brass tubing next time, but my wires were kinda thick.
Wasn't trying to be nasty. Dios are fun! I know less about making them than just about anything else in this hobby...just play with it...use thick white glue or hot glue untill you know exactly what you want it to look like..
















Click on the one below to see the vid:







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Steve


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

GSaum said:


> ...What I'm trying to figure out is how do modelers attach a brass tube to a model WITHOUT using glue, epoxy, etc. I want a stand that will allow me to remove the model from the base with relative ease if I need to change a burned out LED, etc...


What you're seeing is probably audio plugs. Place the plug in the end of your tube, and mount the jack into the model. These will supply power, and allow removal. Use the longer 1/4in plugs for larger models, 1/8in for small ones.

I can't post URLs apparently, but Radio Shack has them.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Ah! I didn't realize that! I'll definitely have to look into those! Thank you!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Here are a couple of Radio Shack items that fit the bill. 1/8" jacks/plugs should work fine for the war machines.

Jack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103451 
Plug: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103400


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

So I guess the problem you couldn't articulate has been solved.
I spent a bit of time trying to help, and got called a nasty name for my troubles. I can't wait to see what your build is gonna look like.

"Remember, the glue comes out of the hole at the end of the tube"



Steve


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

steve123 said:


> So I guess the problem you couldn't articulate has been solved.
> I spent a bit of time trying to help, and got called a nasty name for my troubles. I can't wait to see what your build is gonna look like.
> 
> "Remember, the glue comes out of the hole at the end of the tube"
> ...


Well, the "its not rocket science" quote rubbed me the wrong way. My apologies for the outburst, just but be mindful of your words.

I think your builds are extremely impressive and thanks for the advice!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

This is a stand I made for my Leif Ericson conversion.

You can see the 1/4 in audio plug glued into the brass tube. 
The female receptacle is epoxied into the body of the model.
I needed to add the support arm due to the look I need/wanted but if you 
are careful where you mount the plug it will be very sturdy. 
The MWM stand mounts in the center so it should not be an issue.

Hope this helps.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

here is the plug in the body


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Progress photos*

I decided to use what little spare time I had today (being the holiday and all) to prime the inside of the kit with a grey primer for a light block. I masked off the areas suggested by VoodooFX, and did a quick dry fit with a few of the lights in place. Considering I haven't sprayed the outside of the kit, I'm pretty happy with the minimal number of light leaks I've found. One thing I'm not sold on, though, is that I'm trying to avoid the three LEDs behind the front-most green "sensor" from looking like, well, three LEDs. I really want it to look like a single, diffused light source. One thing I'm planning on doing is spraying the inside of all of the clear-green pieces with Krylon Dull Coat. However, I have a sneaky feeling that won't be enough to go for the look I'm trying to achieve. Anyone have any pointers they'd like to share? Here's a look at my dry fit w/ lights (and yes, I know the front LEDs are misaligned. They were hastily taped into place. They will be more secure in the finished build.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/8209695043
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/8210783056


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well the problem with getting this to look like it did in the movie is that they used neon to light the ship, you are using three points of light. I have not used this light kit soo I dont know how bright they are but try this. Take a thin strip of styrene and stand it up in front of the LEDs. This should help with the hot spots, but it will cut down the overall brightness.

When I built my MIM kit I used 4 LEDs, frosted the LEDs by sanding them and frosting the clear parts. Not shown, but I also added a white strip of styrene in front of them. While it did not eliminate all trace of hot spots the effect was diminished.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Thanks for the tips. One of the ideas suggested by VooDoo was to mask off the styrene that's in the model and use that as a diffuser. I did that, but the hot spots are still pretty apparent. I have more styrene I could try, but I have a feeling it will block the light too much. Of course, I still need to dull coat the clear green, and once I do that, I'm sure it will look much more diffused.

I like the idea of sanding down the LEDs. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the pointers!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Give it a try. You just have to realize it will never look like it did in the movie, that's the drawback of using a different lighting method.


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