# Cattywampus Garage



## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Hello all, I guess this will be my show and tell thread. I am new to the resin body scene and I haven't painted a slot body in at least 15 years. I named my garage cattywampus because stuff I do hardly ever ends up quite right. So sit back and enjoy my pain. :tongue:

So we will start off with a 55 Buick resin I purchased to compete in a race class they call Fairgrounds. I was told it had to be a 50's body from a specific vendor. The vendor is Butch's Resin Bodies So I get it and the posts need to be "glued in." So I took a bare t-jet chassis, put axles/wheels/tires on it and cut the posts down that he included and screwed the posts to the chassis and epoxied them on. Turns out I got the back of the car a little crooked and one wheel opening was higher than the other, and the front was a tad to low and I had tire rub. 

The good side









The bad side









So next up I was sanding the openings by hand and felt I was getting nowhere so in my infinite wisdom decided to fire up my dremel. With different size sanding drums at my disposal I settled on one for the rear openings and had the dremel on its lowest setting and barely touched the body and they came out good. I then switched to a smaller drum to do the fronts and one went fine and the left front not so much. The body kinda slipped in my fingers and in my desperation to not drop it I pulled it into the spinning sanding drum.
So it got kinda big.

Good side









Bad side









So I'll leave it at that and later today I hope to prime it and get some paint on it.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

FastZ28 said:


> . . . So sit back and enjoy my pain. :tongue: . . .


 
I like the sentiment. :thumbsup: Wonder how many "been there, done that" moments I will relive thru your garage? :freak: One so far!


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Well, if you've ever seen a fairgrounds racer, the wells are never cut even!
Welcome to the customs threads. Cain't wait to see how this one turns out. 

:thumbsup:


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Hey FastZ28, welcome to the Forum and the world of SlotRacing. And I love Dirttrackers and Fairgrounds specials, and yours is Perfect, can't make mistakes with this Class of Racing, as it's rough and tumble bang 'em up hammer 'em out- all the way. Thanks for sharing your build with us, and I'll be looking forward to seeing what rolls out of your shop


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Welcome to HT!

I am sure you will fit in quite nicely around here and
we're glad to have ya!

Thank you for the blow by blow on your resin build.
We really like those around here. Had you been sitting next to me
as I read your story, you'd have heard an audible groan as 
I read "infinite wisdom" and "fired up my dremel", and as like 'Doba, been there-
done that, got the T-shirt. :thumbsup:

Do you have a set of jewelry files? 
http://www.amazon.com/Needle-Files-...&qid=1340457515&sr=8-1&keywords=jewelry+files
Sandpaper has its uses, generally for smoothing
or creeping up on an area while removing material. A set of files are cheap and it is 
pretty derned hard to have one get away from you as in your dremel experience.
My files are in constant use. I dont know what I would do without them!

We look forward to seeing your builds!:wave:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I'll be watching this too! The guys are right about them old fairgrounds racers. Uneven was the norm as budgets were small for most racers, and fenders were trimmed as needed.. If the dent caused interference, the problem was cut away and on to the next race! They hardly ever replaced body panels unless they were completely toast.. 

I too have had more than my share of slips with the dremel, so as you see, you're not alone!! Welcome to HT, and keep at it!! And remember, practice makes perfect!!


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Yea, a big welcome FZ28...If ya don't screw up, not sure you would belong here!!!  The man upstairs knows I've had my share!!! All part of the processs. Always glad to see a new shop open up, so bring it on...Hey, just make the other wells a little bigger, easy fix...RM


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Welcome to the madness!

I've always considered the dremel to be a mixed blessing.

My dremel is kept just out of arms reach. Not so far that it's a pain, but just far enough so I to have to think twice.


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

I'd like to help and throw in my 3 cents, but I'm a bottom feeder at best. BUT I LOVE TRYING.


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Thanks for the warm welcome guys  And yes I need to get some of the little files.

Well today I started off with the second body I purchased from Butch's resin bods. It is a 74 AMC Hornet ASA racer. I bought this as a gift for my cousin. His first car was a 74 Hornet. So I epoxied the posts in and left the wheel wells alone because I figured he would most likely use it on his fray style car. So I went about cutting out the side windows with my xacto knife and the darn spoiler had sharp corners and kept poking me. So I got the sandpaper and rounded them, much better on the fingers. The side window were really thick at spots and was a slow struggle but I got them with only minor marks to the body from my knife. Then I sanded them to smooth it all out and noticed I broke almost half the rear spoiler away from the body.  Well this body had a cavity in the back where the tail lights would be so I decided I would fill it in with epoxy and just go clear up the spoiler for support. 










So I then washed the hornet and 55 Buick and was trying to figure out how I was going to hold them to prime and paint. I forgot to get putty at the local hobby lobby like someone here does so I came up with this. Here they are primed.










Yes they are toothpicks stuck into styrofoam. 

So while they were drying I was checking out my goodies that were delivered today. Two sweet Super Nova bodies from Randy. Thank you!
A bunch of AFX frontends from JW speedparts. So I put a frontend on one of my cars and was turnin some laps. Then back to the bodies, gave them both their first coat of paint.

Then I started tearing down a NOS t-jet for my ECHORSS build. Put all new RTHO gears in it and new dash magnets(after I matched them), wizzard brushes, JW crown gear, afx turbo rear axle, 345 wizzard tires, and a nos t-jet arm that read 16.0,16.0, and 16.1.

Then gave the cars their second coat of paint and here they are.









Close-up of the 55 Buick









Close-up of the 74 Hornet









Then when back to my ECHORSS build and finished it off with stock pick-up shoes springs and wizzard shoes, that I had to take back off and file down the U part that was scraping the track rails. And a RTHO new fancy frontend then I broke it in for a minute or two and started ripping laps.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Looking good FastZ!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: I've been wanting to snag a couple of Butch's resins, but I never seem to have the funds when he has them listed on the bay. I will eventually snag a 58 Chevy and one of them Buicks!!


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

I am liking these allot! :thumbsup:


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

Love the name! That alone is a great start. Keep up the good work.


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## wheelszk (Jul 8, 2006)

FastZ28,


Your cars are looking good, don't worry about the wheel wells they are fairgrounds.Looking foreward to meeting you on the 7th. Come early to practice and get the cars set up for the track.
Bill
P.S.
If you need directions LMK


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## win43 (Aug 28, 2006)

Cool cars and welcome aboard.


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## slotto (Feb 9, 2010)

Nice color for the Buick. Do her up proud!


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Well last night I decided to finish them up. My least favorite part, hand painting. I don't have the steadiest hands so I was just hoping not to mess them up too bad. 
For the 55 Buick I wanted to two tone it with silver or white on the roof and on the sides. The more I debated I decided white would be better so the silver wouldn't blend into the bumpers. Well the white did not want to cover the blue very well, so I gave it one coat of white then waited about half hour and tried for a second coat. It sorta wanted to lift the first coat so I just kinda blobbed it on to cover. The silver details weren't too bad, I did some flat black on the grill and head lights and tail lights. Then I thought I would do the windows flat black. Big mistake, it left brush marks all over the windows so I let them dry and went back over them with gloss black and it looks much better. I am calling it done for now, I might decal it up later.

Heres the pics, front and rear.

















On to the 74 Hornet, after learning the hard way on the Buick I went straight to the gloss black for the windows, silver parts were easy, and I flat blacked the rear panel and the grill. I was using a toothpick on the grill to keep it off the turn signals and head lights. I decided to do the head lights white and one went good and the other I must have gotten too much paint on the brush cause it ran down off the headlight a little. All in all I think it looks good and my cousin will be happy with it.

Here are a few pictures, front,side, and rear.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Hey, that ain't bad at all, especially for just starting out!!! Don't be so hard on yourself!! As you progress, your skills will improve. :thumbsup::thumbsup: There's tricks for detail painting that you'll pick up along the way. 

A lot of how you can do things (and get away with stuff) depend on what you're using for paint. I use lacquer products because it dries quick, and is pretty tough. Once I'm done with the initial paint, I clear coat it. Then I follow up with enamels for the details. As long as you simply apply and not try to move the paint around, it won't bleed through the clear. You do need to be fairly quick and precise. My silver enamel is kind of a hybrid, with some silver lacquer tossed in to help it dry a little quicker. Once that dries, I mist another coat of clear on to seal the deal. Here's the good part of my process.... If I goof up the trim, or get a run, I let it dry and can then wet sand (1000 grit wet/dry paper) the boo boo away. The clear is your barrier between the goof up and your base paint. As long as you didn't work your detail paint through the clear it will pretty much vanish. 

Another hint, as you've learned, is plan your colors accordingly. Paint your light colors first, mask them off, and then shoot your darker colors. It's hard to cover darks with lights, and you usually need a primer coat to get away with that. That makes for a lot of paint coats which could lead to other problems like soft paint. 

One other trick I'm working on perfecting is to paint my trim paint on before my color coat. This one requires a very gentle touch. Lay down your silver coat on the whole car, and then follow up with a coat of clear, and then lay down your color coat. If you're gentle with the wet sanding, you can sand the highlights of your trim (like the fender/side trim on your buick) down to the clear/silver coat without disturbing the surrounding color coat paint. I've had some successes, and some utter failures doing it this way, but I'm still practicing. :lol: 


Like I said, practice makes perfect!! Keep at it!!  :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

slotcarman12078 said:


> . . . Like I said, practice makes perfect!! Keep at it!!  :thumbsup::thumbsup:


 
True words! Learning from screw ups is part of the process . The Hornet looks real nice - I thought the Buick was gonna be a racer? Change of plans?


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

Because my hands are so shaky, I'll cut thin strips of masking tape (makes it easier to bend for gradual curves) to get a good edge... and use 3/4" for the straights. With the combination of those two all, I have to cut in is the tight corners. I've also used friskit (shelf paper too, but sometimes it's too sticky and leaves residue) and liquid friskit (rubber glue too...not the best but cheap). I like slotcarman's idea of shooting a clear...I'll have to try that one sometime. Keep up the good work FastZ28!


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I am a bit envious, by the way.. There's nothing like a nice clean usable basement/cellar to play in.. I can't even walk in the dungeon under this house!!


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

fASTz28,

hEY mY dAD Had a 56 Buick 3 tone Green when I was just a youngun.

Love it in Blue and White! Yep it definitely needed a 2 tone paint job!

The Hornet is looking fun to run now also!

Wasn't a fan of painted windows at first but, after some practice & a few mess ups too, I tried Semi Gloss Black and it worked for me.

I learned in my High School Drafting Class back in the early 80s that to draw a straight line free hand you need to go for just a bit, stop and then start again...repeat until done.

Also if you mount the body so it is sitting on top of a paint bottle with Poster putty you will only have one shaky hand (your paint hand) now. LOL

Another trick is to put a big wad of Poster Putty under your paint bottle. This will allow you to move the body angle for the best approach.

If you have a body that has been in paint for a while you can always put paint thinner on a small goof up and suck the fresh new paint up with a brush.

Put thinner on and thin goof up, clean brush and suck paint into brush. Repeat until all is well. Wheeeeeew...magic tricks like this work.

A clear coat will seal it all in and the light reflection will smooth out tiny imperfections.

Ooooooooooooooooooh WELCOME!!:wave: Great to see you are having fun and we all love New Blood. Jump on in the water is fine.

Bob...I love paint...zilla


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I can hear the six cylinder fire up in that Hornet right now!!!
Great color selection for it. Looks right outta the 70s. :thumbsup:


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Thanks for all the compliments and advice guys. I really appreciate it. I have a couple more projects lined up and will post again soon.


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Well when I started painting these cars I wanted some decals for the Buick but couldn't find what I wanted. So I decided to try a new venture and print them myself. The other night I finally got enough courage up to waste some decal paper. I then cleared it with 2 coats of acrylic. Then tonight I cut them out and put them on.

Here is what I printed, after clearing and cutting some out.









I put numbers on the 55 Buick then cleared the whole car. I also did my new body I got from Zoomin for the Echorr's SS car I built while painting.
Here they are heading into turn 3!








Another angle!








And the winner!!!:thumbsup:









Okay these little bodies are cool and handle good and all that but I was about ready to throw that little booger across the basement trying to glue the stupid windshield in. I dunno I trimmed and trimmed and trimmed a little at a time so I wouldn't make it too small but still ended up with gaps and for some reason my glue wanted to take forever to dry. Then it didn't want to stay put and I propped my pin vise on the thing to hold it down and now the windshield has a slight indentation from the pin vise. Oh well it will prolly fly out after one hit anyway. Good thing Zoomin sent extra windshields:wave:


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Lookin good FZ... You'll find that the little problems will become part of your learning curve. Each time you do a new body you'll get better and better. BTW, For a first time making your own decals... those are pretty darn good too. Yer gonna be an old hand at slot car customizing in no time. :thumbsup:


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Cool Beans that you made your own decals...*

Those decals you made are neat and your cars are looking Great!!

You are going to have soooooooooooooooooo much fun racing that Buick in the 50s style races!! 

:woohoo:
:woohoo:

Bob...thanks for sharing pics and infomation...zilla


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

*66 Nova project*

Okay I have been working on this for a few days off and on. Last few days I been working on the chassis for it. Its going to be going on a little trip at the end of this week to a NTRA proxy race. 

So I got back to the body the other night and finished sanding and trimming and fitting it to the chassis. Then wasn't happy with rear bumper fitment and filled it back up with a little epoxy. Last night I sanded and filed the epoxy and got it where I wanted it and washed, primed and started painting.

First off I selected these colors of meyhem and destruction:thumbsup:









Here it is in primer.

























After letting the primer dry I decided to try a new toy my father gave me that was new and unopened. He found it in his pile of stuff he bought and never used so I said I would try it. Well this thing turned out to be a weapon of mass frustration!!!









I dunno what I was thinking, I should have stuck to my original plan and brushed it on, it would have been quicker. First off there is no real user instructions, just how to clean and troubleshoot and a helpful chart on what paints need thinned and what doesn't. Well fortunately my paint was in the list that didn't need to be thinned. So I put the spray nozzle in and hook the gun to the can of propellant, next I take the pipette and transfer some paint to the guns jar and try to figure out how to use this thing. Well I can't get a single spec of paint to come out of it. So I read the troubleshooting section and can't find anything wrong. The air was coming out fine but no paint, so I tried adjusting the jar to different angles and the other side of the gun and nothing. Then getting frustrated I added more paint just to be sure I had enough in the jar. Still no paint. So next I tried turning the jar upside down on the gun like a hvlp setup, big mistake, theres a little hole on the lid to the jar paint started dripping out of. Clean that mess up and try removing the nozzle to see if paint comes out. No paint just propellant. So then I put the nozzle back on and got it halfway on and for giggles decided to try it. I pressed the trigger slowly and heard some bubbling from the jar for the first time. So I tried it on some newspaper but it was all spattery looking, and it I moved the trigger to the back before pressing down it would just spew a stream of paint. So tightened the nozzle more and more till it started to spray decent. Still wouldn't spray quite right so I put a piece of masking tape over the little hole on the jar and it finally sprayed more evenly. After that hour long fiasco I taped off the body and proceeded to try and paint with this weapon of mass frustration. I hit the sides of the snorkel first and it was spraying good. I then tilted the gun down to get the hood,roof, and trunk and it started it spatter crap again. So I let the first coat dry then I readjusted the jar to sit level while pointing downward and gave it a second coat, did downward first then sides of snorkel and got spattered again, adjusted jar and covered the spatter quickly. Then took the paint out and took my little mess to the sink and washed it all up.


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Went back to the body and remembered someone saying to remove the tape while the paint was still wet. Here it is before I removed the tape.

















And after tape removal.









Now I have to tape the silver up and spray or brush the blue on. I am a little worried about doing this, afraid the tape will mess up the silver or pull it off. I used the tamyia masking tape then regular masking tape to cover the rest.
Any tips or tricks for not messing this up?

Well hopefully after the blue is on I will add a few more printed decals and hit it with some clear and send it off for its first race. 

Any tips on this airbrush thing could be helpful too

Thanks for looking and for your tips and feedback:wave:
Hope some of you get a little chuckle out of it too:jest:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Oh man... Air brushing is tricky when you're first starting out.. Here's a couple tips off the top of my head..

1. Siphon feed needs more pressure than gravity feed. That being a siphon type, you need all the pressure the can will give you. The thicker the paint, the more pressure you'll need. If those are water based, add a little thinner ( be it water if water based).

2. Clean up depends on the paint type. Water based acrylics clean up with water. Solvent based paints clean with lacquer thinner or acetone.

3.Rather than having the body set in it's stand while painting, hold it. Move the body rather than try to point the gun in 15 different directions. My choice of apparatus is a pencil with a small wad of poster putty on the end. You don't just stick the pencil in and expect it to hold. Manipulate the putty to the inside of the roof to really hold it on. Just make sure there isn't any working it's way out the windows!! This way you can move the body around any which way to get an even paint flow and hit the body at any angle.

4. Don't take the tape off when the paint is wet. Wait until it's at least partly dry or you'll be likely to drag the paint onto the taped part. You don't want to untape when the paint is completely dry. 

5. Hope that the paint sticks really good when you tape off for the next color. If you're familiar with this type of paint (using brushes) you'll have a good idea what you can get away with. 

6. You already got, kinda. Always practice on paper or cardboard to fine tune the gun. This is where you figure out what works and what don't. The better the AB, the more fine tuning you can do. But... don't base your +/_ AB experience on that gun, as it is just the absolute basics. A better gun will give you much better performance, and using a compressor (even just a little one) with a pressure regulator and gauge will enhance your results.

There's way more tips, but I'll let others pipe in!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Think of Butterflys*

For me, painting has become a philosophical lesson. At a certain point you finally let go. I let the dogma of preperation and muscle memory of spraying take over. Eventually you learn to fix or work around the little boo boos and laugh at the big ones. I often get frustrated by all the what if's and handwringing over painting models. Two things are true. The more you paint, the faster you learn.... and there will be casulties. It's just that simple. After all it's not like an old flower basket of dirt fell from the rafters of an old garage... right on a freshly flamed and cleared 55 chevy hood. (one of my friends) We're supposed to be having fun and just painting little toy cars. Yeah right! 

99.999999999% of painting fubars are stooooopid.... a result of distraction, interruption, neglegence of preperation, and of course ....the number one killer....impatience!


Touch yer index fingers to yer thumbs....and repeat after me....

OMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM 

Less is more.

The tape line should not be considered a dam. Adequate visual coverage and minimum paint film thickness should always be the goal when spraying multi stage jobs... just get it down and let the clear do its job. 

Via test shots, learn to get the viscosity to the point that you can minimize the pressure and actually see the formation of the droplets on the feather edge of the spray pattern, like falling snow. Using a magnifying glass, take a close look at the original Aurora airbrush accents. 

To successfully accomplish multi-layer paint schemes, you must train yourself to work up from the minimum settings. Your tape will come off nicer. (I guarantee it) Otherwise you might as well go back to bombcans and scary Grand Canyon tape edges.

This is why the tools are adjustable!

If your spraying single stage or single stage with a clear top, then by all means, bang her on down. If you want to learn to shoot more complex or intricate stuff, beginning with stripes and two-tones, ease back the gun settings to the butterfly position. At this point it is no longer production painting, and it becomes an art form. 

In the following link you'll find a blue Willys. Certainly I could have just blatted it in blue metalic and moved on. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=215904&page=140 

The silver metalic between the blue transparent AND the blue transparent itself is layed at low pressure. Just enough to squeak a fog of silver out of the gun, and just enough for a nice liquid film for the blue. The blue is layed as a uniform film and the silver is merely a LIGHT over spray. As JoeD points out it's totally OK and very important to move the workpiece with your other hand. It gives you absolute control of how things lay out. The model is moved closer to the liquid part of the spray pattern or farther away into the dry part of the pattern depending on which coat is being applied. So the technique is accomplished by passing the workpiece through a low pressure fog of silver metalic onto each still wet transparent blue over coat. Repeat the process to taste The sparse metalic is now hanging in suspension throughout the transparent layers. Think of transparents or clear as a lense to the base coat. You control the focus and how much is seen and when and where ya see it with respect to each progressive layer. 

The point being that those umpteen layers would still be curing and squirming around were they shot with a conventional bomb can painting mentality. This is why 1:1 artisan painters have smaller guns and matching pressure regulators. In all things, the scale of the tools used must compliment the scale of the work piece or the required job. If your painting 1/64 scale... why would you use 1:1 pressures and viscosity? See? 

I still paint from time to time when the mood strikes. Never force it, just get properly prepared and go for it when it feels right. Properly done you'll learn something new every time...or at least remember something you shouldnt have forgotten. I've screwed up plenty of paint jobs in darn near every color and material you can imagine.

Some of the chat rats will remember my first paint job. At around three years old, maybe coming up on four; me and my cohort touched up the fresh white wash on his granny's car port.....

with dog doo harvested from a neighboring yard.

It was my first painting mistake ....

NEVER SCRIMP ON MATERIALS! :tongue:

PS: for inspiration, browse the archives in the Diecast Customizing section here at HT


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

FastZ28 said:


> And after tape removal.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Only because I really like that body may I suggest: 
First of all as a rule of thumb, paint your light colors first. Thus, I would have painted the whole body silver, then maksed off the stripe with Tamiya tape, then sprayed the blue. ( I wouldn't recommend regular masking tape as it may leave glue residue plus the tape itself can eat into the fresh paint causing other problems. Spend the money and get the Tamiya wide. Also, As soon as your paint dries, I would remove the tape pulling it at an angle to try to help keep from lifting the first coats. As Bill stated, spray just enough for hiding. Try to spray away from the tape edge. Tape tends to attract paint, suck it up, and build a paint ridge. It's the tension attraction factor.
Now for the problem as I see it. Looks like you already have a paint ridge. Taping again will possible cause another ridge, plus it will be hard to retape on that line. 
No.1...I would suggest water sanding the very edge of the tape line to remove the ridge, ( I'm talking thin sanding, just remove the edge) then either mask into the silver and spray the blue. If you see a line after painting, you can use some striping tape or decal stripes to cover the line...
No. 2...Feather edge (water sand) the silver line edge, respray the whole car silver, then remask for your silver stripe, spray the blue...
No. 3... Try spraying the blue first on a test piece of board. You may find you can spray the silver last. Some silvers tend to hide well.
No. 4... If there is not a high ridge, mask it off as close as you can, spray the blue, then come back with some pin striping to cover the stripe edge...
No. 5...After all the color is on, come back with some clear. Not sure about the type paint you are using, so always test if not sure of the paint compatibility. That's why I use, for the most parts, lacquer base stuff...
Hope this helps and is only suggestions as results may vary...RM


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Think of it a finger painting...just dable untill you like the way it works for you!!*

Do everything SLotcarman, Billz and Hilly said....

Then get a bunch of bodies...I mean a BUNCH!!

Paint them up in colors you want & walk away. I use my garage for an oven.
Unlike Hilltop I use Enamel. My painting style is like Powder Coating almost.

When I do the final skim on my Metalic paint jobs I get close and gloss it on. 

For the most part I mix my paint about 30% thinner and 70% paint.

I always Phssssssssssssssssht first on a piece of paper or a box to test my mix. 
If you are getting splattery spitballs you need to add a touch more thinner. 
Thinner is just that....paint has to be thined to be able to get pushed out the nozle.
To thin and you will get runs...nobody wants that...hahahahhahahaha

Phsssssssssssssssssssht...just get a BUNCH of bodies and start in on them. 

You will get comfortable mixing the paint and making your own colors pretty soon to I bet.

Bob...a clean airbrush is a happy airbrush...zilla


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

it might have been better to spray the whole thing the lighter color, in this case silver. after that dries sufficiently, mask the area to remain silver and then spray the darker color, in this case blue.
often times when taping, a thin mask for the edges that is well burnished and then the fill between the outer edges of the mask area works better.
I have no advice on air brushes except, the air in that can will make the whole set up cold, even icy after a bit and cause water particles to get into your masterpiece.
oh yeah, practice a lot on newspaper and projects that aren't as important.
there is probably no substitute for making the mistakes that teach proper and complete procedure. hopefully Bill will check in on this thread and JoeZ who just got his diploma. Randy ain't a half bad painter either! LOL
many others, too many to recall right now are masters here.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

oops, didn't see the third page before opening my big mouth, again! 
LOL


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## FastZ28 (Apr 12, 2012)

Its been a while since I've posted in here. I did finish that car but the paint never cured quite right. But that will wait till another time.
I recently painted a 69 Chevelle Dash body, turned out ok till I decided to put SS stripes on it. Anyway sorry no pics of that mess.
So I entered an NTRA event coming up in a few weeks and had to paint a car for that and here it is. Along with another car that I did not paint.



















Just keeping it simple:wave:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Simple is good!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: Add a few drag stickers and you'll be surprised that it was meant for the strip...RM


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Hey Fastz28 that Camaro looks Super with the snorkel up front and silver below.

You can buy tiny leter and number decals in different colors....Hmmmmmmmmmmmm

Z28 might look good on this? 

Was told at my job 22 years ago that if you don't make mistakes then your are not doing anything. 

Bob...oooooooooooops...zilla


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Bi-color is a good look....but......
it would look even better on my track!
Nice work all around, hey! :thumbsup:


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## 65 COMET (Nov 4, 2012)

You have some real nice stuff coming out of your paint both, keep up the good work!!!


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