# PL E 1701-A 2.0 by ColHero



## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Howdy Enterprise Fans!

I know the Refit/A is no longer the "in" thing, but... here is my current rendition of my favorite ship, the Enterprise A. After seeing fantastic recent builds such as Trek Modeller's latest Refit and Jason Ware's scratch-built A, I was motivated to try and build a more accurate version than my 2006 build.

I really want a super-accurate rendition of the A - the paint scheme on the studio model has got to be the most creative, realistic and intricate of any miniature ever. I have just completed the Secondary Hull, and my patience has run out for striving for accuracy! 

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/SecondaryHull-Finished?sort=3&page=1


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## BWolfe (Sep 24, 2013)

Speechless









Me, after seeing your images.


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## 1711rob (Mar 15, 2006)

Always in awe looking at your build, I finished mine back in '07 with T M's light kit and after doing some recent repairs to it i look at that kit and instructions and wonder if i would have the patience or if my nerves could handle doing another one :freak: Love your paint job wished mine came out that good, maybe one day i'll get brave again


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks for the compliments guys - Rob, your 07 build still looks good - I thought I was satisfied with my 06 build, but I recently realized that I must be obsessed with having a miniature version of the Studio model, so I decided to try a new build. But then I realized that as much as I want a super-accurate build, it's freakin impossible! The colors on the studio model look different at every angle and lighting... aaaaarrrggh


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Just a quick comment on the photos - I dont have a really good camera (most shots are from my Droid) and havent yet figured out the best lighting so most of the pix have too much red tint...


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Thanks for the compliments guys - Rob, your 07 build still looks good - I thought I was satisfied with my 06 build, but I recently realized that I must be obsessed with having a miniature version of the Studio model, so I decided to try a new build. But then I realized that as much as I want a super-accurate build, it's freakin impossible! The colors on the studio model look different at every angle and lighting... aaaaarrrggh


Yeah that's it the real a, if not THE, problem with the original Refit/A model. It will look different from any angle and any light conditions. The Christis pictures are the best we have got, but those are also showing different hull and detail colors. It is even harder with the Refit itself since we do not have a single clear color reference on her, just B&W pictures, publicity pictures and screen shots of the movies. So all you can really do is get a couple of pictures you base your color tones on and make the rest up as you go, always following that inner picture of the ship we all have in our heads and try to get it as close as you can.

I think I managed to do that rather well on my 1/350 Refit, I think -this- pretty much looks like what we remember her in TMP, and -in motion with fitting music- it gets even closer .

So stay on the course you have laid in and you will have a great model at the end.


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## holt35 (Aug 15, 2013)

Looks great:thumbsup: Can I ask how you painted the hull? did you use pearl paints or something else.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thorston, 

I totally agree that the available photos leave much room for personal interpretation - but only to a point - even with the Refit there are enough shots to get a good overall idea as to the colors and patterns, just takes a lot of work comparing colors and lighting, which of course, we realize. After many hours of doing just that for the A I hit a wall - but I feel Im 90% there and that will have to do! 

You did a fantastic job on your Refit - the lighting and azteccing are top-notch and very accurate - your Deflector is definitely the highlite for me, with the large, warm spot instead of a sharper hot-spot - the only concern I have as far as accuracy is with the use of the tan color in the major details on the secondary hull - everything I have seen on the Refit Studio model shows grays, maybe some blue-grays. Your details like the Shuttlebay, Rec Dec and Airlock are all fabulous - as is your overall workmanship - all in all, one of my fav versions of the Refit/A and I will most likely be asking your advice and looking at your older posts along my journey! :thumbsup:


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Don't beat your self up, the color you used look to be very close to what's on the filming model in those comparison pix. Very accurate.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

irishtrek said:


> Don't beat your self up, the color you used look to be very close to what's on the filming model in those comparison pix. Very accurate.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


Hehe... not really beating myself up - was just looking for a result that I now believe is Unobtainable! 

In seeking objective accuracy, my priorities are 1. colors and patterns 2. aztecs 3. overall finish 4. details 5. lighting

Obstacles (besides the colors) that Im finding include-

-the Deflector dish - unless you paint the outside surface of the dish, a dark ring shows - this I discovered is due to light refracting through the part from the outer ring - only cure: paint the whole thing and forget lighting it

-construction seams - believe this? I actually constructed the top and bottom halves of the Eng Hull separately, and finished them (paint/aztecs) BEFORE joining the hull bottom, front and neck. Before painting I test fitted and shaped the parts to fit as close as possible to minimize the seams. After assembly I masked and filled the seams with a thin bead of caulk, then painted over the seams and drew in the grid lines - worked better than I expected! And no effect on the finished paint around the seams. 

-kit inaccuracies - I used caulk again to fill the lines in the Shuttle door, then applied enough paint so that any sanding only affected the paint - for the deflector "clamp" runners, I cut them off and just created new ones and glued them on at a more accurate steep angle - Garbaron did the same on his Refit (mine are actually a tad too steep) - there are plenty of others kit issues, but Im only concerned with the obvious ones, like the flux grilles on the nacelles, the shape of the lower sensor and the extended "fan" in front of the Bridge. I thought about shaving off the raised phaser and nav lite platforms too but I'd like to get this completed before the decade is out!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

holt35 said:


> Looks great:thumbsup: Can I ask how you painted the hull? did you use pearl paints or something else.


Thanks sir! For the base color, I do not think a pure-white looks accurate, especially at this scale. so I mixed flat white with a blu-gray tint. I also painted the base coat lightly enough to allow the gray primer to peek through, giving a layer of depth and more gray tint. The base looked great by itself - smooth, with a nice tint and depth - though it looks too red in many photos due to my lack of photography skills....

For the pylon aztecs I used Iridescent blue/gold - on the rest of the Eng Hull I used very light gray, red/gray and blue/gray - I used only 3 stencils for all the aztecs on the hull and 4 for the neck. I cut them from decal paper and lightly stuck them on in different positions, and applied each aztec color in 3 light coats which helped avoid running and buildup - took a while tho! 

For my finish coat, I wiped on a thin mix of the base white with satin - I lightly rubbed it till it gave a nice thin, pearlescent sheen. I believe that an sprayed overcoat of clear paint looks too obvious and gives the model a toyish look, because it has to be thick to be smooth. I believe that the finish on the Studio A is similar to the look of galvanized steel - the technique I used actually accomplished this to 90% satisfaction. 

However, the paint on the Studio A still has glossy spots that are leftover from the original Refit paint - it seems the Eng Hull was completely repainted but the rest of the ship (other than a few details) was just dulled down. But the Shuttlebay door, the Nacelles and the bottom of the Primary Hull all look to have much of the gloss leftover from the Refit.

I am actually becoming less a fan of the Studio A paint job, because of the inconsistent finishes mentioned above and the fact that the aztecs on the Eng Hull are completely different from the rest of the ship. They are not reflective like the rest of the aztecs and they look like simple overlapped colors just thrown on to give a complex look. The Refit scheme looks much more technical and consistent. But Im not a fan of the gloss-coat on the Refit - I cant win!! hehe 

-the strongback and deflector patterns are paper decals that I made - I decided this was more effective than painting because mixing the exact paint colors would be more difficult, and paint would unavoidably leave masking lines.

-the Shuttlebay cowl (section at the stern) actually has a goldish tint and I replicated this by wiping on a thin gold

-the forward section of the Eng Hull (where the Insignia are) and the Deflector housing are slightly darker than the base white, with a tint of gray and satin-coated - there are Studio model shots where the Insignia area looks silver, but this is due to the leftover gloss from the Refit era.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Thorston,
> 
> I totally agree that the available photos leave much room for personal interpretation - but only to a point - even with the Refit there are enough shots to get a good overall idea as to the colors and patterns, just takes a lot of work comparing colors and lighting, which of course, we realize. After many hours of doing just that for the A I hit a wall - but I feel Im 90% there and that will have to do!
> 
> You did a fantastic job on your Refit - the lighting and azteccing are top-notch and very accurate - your Deflector is definitely the highlite for me, with the large, warm spot instead of a sharper hot-spot - the only concern I have as far as accuracy is with the use of the *tan color* in the major details on the secondary hull - everything I have seen on the Refit Studio model shows grays, maybe some blue-grays. Your details like the Shuttlebay, Rec Dec and Airlock are all fabulous - as is your overall workmanship - all in all, one of my fav versions of the Refit/A and I will most likely be asking your advice and looking at your older posts along my journey! :thumbsup:


Thanks for all the flowers.  

Well the thing with the tan is.. it's not tan .. it is "stone grey" and all my colors have "leave green" mixed in to them, but the green only shows under certain light conditions. 
I did a lot research comparing the Ent-A Christies pictures to the B&W Refit pictures and realized that most of the forward secondary hull Aztec, especially the port side, still has the original TMP Aztec but dulled down by ILM. That "tan" color imo shows at that middle strip with the trapezoid shape in the middle and a darker variant in towards the rear  and can also be seen on the Christies pylon warp cover panels. 

Now I know my colors are more colorful than on the references, but for a reason. I figured that ILMs infamous "dull coatint" wasn't just some matt clear coat but a milky clear coat that put sort of a white haze all over Olsens paintjob. So if you take the Christies pictures and want the original TMP Refit colors at the pointed out area, you need to subtract a milky clear coat layer and the true colors would have been more colorful for the TMP Refit. At least that is what I figured and what I based my colors on. 

I should however have used "light green" instead of "leave green", it is closer to the studio model but I only found out about that color way in to the paintjob and it would have meant to repaint the entire secondary hull. So I only used it in some locations like the pylon leading edges, nacelle rear fin, around the bridge. I also made a mistake at the strong back, where I have a light colored section in the middle where it should be a darker shade. This was due to a B&W reference that clearly showed this section had a lighter color, I though I had found something everyone before had missed and included it, I only later realized that this panel probably had a glossy color and the brighter appearance came from light reflection. I left it as is to give it my own touch and because this is an area with lots of little details and I did not want to ruin it. 

Choosing colors for either the Refit or the A is the toughest part of the build and you are never really happy with all of your choices. But the important part is .. if you look at her from a distance it must give you that "jeep.. that's the Refit / Ent-A" feeling and I have that very strongly with my build and with what I see of your A. You are very close to the original, great work!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

colhero said:


> Howdy Enterprise Fans!
> 
> I know the Refit/A is no longer the "in" thing, but... here is my current rendition of my favorite ship, the Enterprise A. After seeing fantastic recent builds such as Trek Modeller's latest Refit and Jason Ware's scratch-built A, I was motivated to try and build a more accurate version than my 2006 build.
> 
> ...


*G A S P ! !*


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thorston,

Very good point that the dulling done by ILM could have also changed color shades! ...which just adds more obscurity to the original Refit paint scheme...

But you also raise another important point - the "green effect". In some shots the primary colors look greenish - on both the Refit and the A.

My conclusion is that the primary colors on the A are really only 2 shades of the same base blue-gray color and that blues and grays look greenish in certain light and angles - it seems the more yellow/red the lighting is, the more green effect. My own research on the colors was frustrated by this exact condition. I have seen Refit builds where the primary colors are grays but again look greenish at certain angles. 

The Christies photos are mostly done in room lighting, with no flash and therefore the blues look greener than they really are. The old Cloudster shots (Smithsonian) are taken mostly with a flash (bluer lighting) and the colors look darker, bluer. I finally was able to reconcile this condition and interpolate blue colors that look grayer or greener in different conditions. The photos in my album show this effect quite a bit - sometimes bluer/grayer, sometimes greener - but all the blues on my build are just 2 shades (dark and light) of the same base blue-gray. 

One specific example of this effect is the "fan" around the Bridge - it has been commonly interpreted as "Duck Egg Blue" - but I found that a light Blue actually tested better in different light/angles than a blue/green like Duck Egg.

I also experimented with the color shades and see in the Studio photos that the colors, even the darker blues get washed out in bright light - I almost settled on a darker blue-gray but found that it didnt washout in brighter light - I brightened up the color and it tested ok. 

Helluva journey! 

-Mike


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

Wow, excellent work. I wish I was this good at modeling.

When you say you used caulk for the seams do you mean caulk like you'd use on windows or baths, or putty? I'm looking ahead to the saucer on my refit and trying to think of how I'm going to get rid of all the seams on the edge where the window panels meet, and still keep the grid lines.

I used Bondo spot putty on the secondary hull, but it's very dark and takes multiple coats of primer and paint to cover it.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

AWESOME job!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> Wow, excellent work. I wish I was this good at modeling.
> 
> When you say you used caulk for the seams do you mean caulk like you'd use on windows or baths, or putty? I'm looking ahead to the saucer on my refit and trying to think of how I'm going to get rid of all the seams on the edge where the window panels meet, and still keep the grid lines.
> 
> I used Bondo spot putty on the secondary hull, but it's very dark and takes multiple coats of primer and paint to cover it.


Hey Barry - yeh I actually used Elmer's general purpose white caulk - so far its working out pretty well - I like it better than putty because its much easier to work with - you can smooth it to the surface easily and wipe off excess so no sanding needed - I shaped all the parts before assembly to minimize gaps - putty dries too quickly, hard to control the consistency and adhesion, never sands completely seamless and takes a lot of primer to cover, then it can crack 

Im just getting to the point of adding the sides to the Primary Hull also - I am testing a process of painting the parts before assembly and dealing with the seams after - lets see how that works... 

Keep up the good work on your build!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

I'm moving onto the P Hull - here's a test of the finished look - unfortunately I already painted over this piece cuz the paint was kinda rough - shoulda kept it...


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

That is beautiful so far!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Fantastic job Colhero!! :thumbsup:

My heart always swung between TOS-E and TMP-E. No decision so far. :wave:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Fantastic job Colhero!! :thumbsup:
> 
> My heart always swung between TOS-E and TMP-E. No decision so far. :wave:


Yeh thats a tuff one! I grew up with TOS and love it dearly and think it is the most original shape for a ship ever - but the Refit/A makes that design even more elegant in my humble opinion.


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

colhero said:


> Yeh thats a tuff one! I grew up with TOS and love it dearly and think it is the most original shape for a ship ever - but the Refit/A makes that design even more elegant in my humble opinion.


After building a model of TOS E I have a much greater appreciation for it, but I don't think anything can be beat the elegance and subtle complexity of the refit.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks again for the compliments all - your appreciation is appreciated! 

Added a little detail to the shuttle ports...


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The sharpness and precision of your paint job is impressive. Even in close shots we can't see paint burrs.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> Thanks again for the compliments all - your appreciation is appreciated!
> 
> Added a little detail to the shuttle ports...


Awesome detail! Though, you know your decals say 1701 not 1701-A, right?  

As an aside, I had the absolute hardest time with these docking port decals on the last Enterprise I tried to build. All but one of them shredded to pieces when I tried to pull them off the paper. Went through all 10 of the 1701 and 1701-A decals. I'm not looking forward to doing them on my refit...


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> Awesome detail! Though, you know your decals say 1701 not 1701-A, right?
> 
> As an aside, I had the absolute hardest time with these docking port decals on the last Enterprise I tried to build. All but one of them shredded to pieces when I tried to pull them off the paper. Went through all 10 of the 1701 and 1701-A decals. I'm not looking forward to doing them on my refit...


Ha! Nice - I dint even notice the A was missing.... another minor detail I will have to live with - that doesnt burn me up nearly as much as some others I have already accepted


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

You know .. I start to feel I should get a nother go on the model ... some time, not now. Just finished one.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> You know .. I start to feel I should get a nother go on the model ... some time, not now. Just finished one.


What?? Dude, rest on your laurels and make some more mini movies with her.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> Ha! Nice - I dint even notice the A was missing.... another minor detail I will have to live with - that doesnt burn me up nearly as much as some others I have already accepted


You got that right. I've got about hundred things so far that I've decided to live with rather than stress over correcting!

Your decals almost look like they're painted on, and I love how the pennant looks like it's intersected by the panel line rather than going over it. How did you do it? (I'm still a newb when it comes to making models this detailed :freak


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> You got that right. I've got about hundred things so far that I've decided to live with rather than stress over correcting!
> 
> Your decals almost look like they're painted on, and I love how the pennant looks like it's intersected by the panel line rather than going over it. How did you do it? (I'm still a newb when it comes to making models this detailed :freak


actually I just carefully cut the decal at the grid lines while still wet and applied more microsol to the incision. doesnt always work that great though...


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

PROGRESS ON THE PRIMARY HULL FINALLY - I thought the PHull would be easier than the SHull but I was incorrect - I am especially frustrated by the side panels - WHY PL/R2 molded it this way I cant even guess... It will be extremely difficult to get those lined up perfectly - oh well, keep moving!

In the meantime here is a link to some tests of the details - 

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/PHull?sort=3&page=1

I will probably use the Rec Dec, Crystal and Lounge in the final build. I went real simple on the Rec Dec since any more detail would be moot without using a magnifying glass to appreciate it IMHO... I am also not going for screen accurate on the Lounge as the kit piece is not correct anyway. One thing I did put extra effort into is the "fan" area in front of the Bridge - the kit molding is too pronounced and to wide - it should be flush and narrower. So I shaved the whole area flush including the long Bridge mounts, since they dont line up well enough. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Fantastic! Every time I think I have already saw the quintessence of this kit's building I end up surprised by another astonishing build.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## WOI (Jun 28, 2012)

Wowee Kazowie!!!!!!!!!!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

FRUSTRATION with the PHull side panels - I thought if I pre-fit and shaped all the pieces carefully enough ahead of time, then carefully glued them in place as closely fitting as possible then I could work with the deflector bands intact - BUT the pieces themselves arent molded accurately enough to line up correctly - SO after many hours of prep work I now have to give in to the "shave them smooth" method and use the decals AAAAARRRRGGHHHH :x


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Welcome to the club .. I wanted the same and ended up doing decals too. But in I'd use the decals again, they'll save you a lot of headaches and look fantastic once applied.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

PHull progress: CLOSE ENOUGH!!

I finally got the top half assembled and base-coated to 95% satisfaction.

Shot showing the B-deck "fan" shaved flush-

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/slideshow/1701-A 2013/PHull

Shot showing side-

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/slideshow/1701-A 2013/PHull

Should look fine after final paint and sensor band decals! :thumbsup:


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## galaxy_jason (May 19, 2009)

I'm glad to hear others saying "close enough". Overall this is a great kit but there are some serious issues like the saucer side walls and the seams along grid lines that make it imposible to build a perfect model.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> FRUSTRATION with the PHull side panels - I thought if I pre-fit and shaped all the pieces carefully enough ahead of time, then carefully glued them in place as closely fitting as possible then I could work with the deflector bands intact - BUT the pieces themselves arent molded accurately enough to line up correctly - SO after many hours of prep work I now have to give in to the "shave them smooth" method and use the decals AAAAARRRRGGHHHH :x


You're really not giving me much hope that I can keep the molded grooves.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Some progress! Finally settled on base build of the PHull top with the horrendous side panels, and settled on base paint coat and ready to move on to finishing. For the Impulse engine I sprayed flat white on the back side of the exhausts to dampen the clear and red lights. I also shaved down the top edges of the exhausts to look more accurate without having to cut in a third-party replacement part. Tonite I painted the inside edges of the exhausts and once the decals or on it will look pretty decent! In the meantime I will be starting on aztecs... :thumbsup:

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-04_23-16-44_549.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


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## H.Erickson (Sep 1, 2005)

Very nice!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Did the Aztecs, grid lines and decals on the Impulse engine.

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-06_00-35-23_420.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

The Aztecs will be toned down nicely when I rub-on a light coat of satin over the whole top. I drew the pattern on the middle of the exhaust section with a fine pencil. 

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-06_00-34-23_112.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-06_00-33-18_480.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great!


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

colhero said:


> The Aztecs will be toned down nicely when I rub-on a light coat of satin over the whole top.


"Rub-on?" Tell us more!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

SteveR said:


> "Rub-on?" Tell us more!


My paint scheme consists of gray auto primer then testors flat white, then airbrushed base coat which is tinted blueish gray. Most flat whites actually have a yellow or reddish tint and any clear coat over that just adds more yellow. So my base is blueish gray, then I add the aztecs, then wipe-on a bit of #2 pencil lead to give a more weathered look, then I finish with a wipe-on, rubbed-in coat of thin satin. Wiping it on keeps it from looking like just another coat of paint, which is very noticable in my opinion. 

Wiping it on allows better control of the amount of paint and avoids clumps, bubbles and gives a look like galvanized metal, which I think the A looks more like anyway. The wipe-on satin dulls the iridescent aztecs a bit so they will tone down to the more subtle look of the A. The Refit is definitely gloss-coated but the A is more subtle. I think I recreated the finish pretty effectively so far on the Secondary Hull. 

This technique can also be used to add a color tint to an existing coat of paint without having to mix an entire new color and spray it on. 

Here is a shot of this technique on a test PHull (unfortunately I already painted over this - duh):

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/media/1701-A 2013/100_2495.jpg.html?sort=3&o=16

Shot of this effect on the finished SHull: 

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co.../2013-10-06_21-53-49_496.jpg.html?sort=3&o=20

These shots show an effect that I feel is very close to the A studio model in that it is not too glossy and the aztecs are not too obvious.

Note that these shots were taken in normal incandescent light which adds red-yellow, so its hard to tell that the base is tinted blue-gray. But to make my point, it would look more red-yellow if I hadnt used the blue-gray tint. :thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Added the blue tint to the side panels. I masked the edges and wiped on the tint with a micro fiber cloth (saves a lot of masking among the other benefits I previously listed). 

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-08_23-03-10_109.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

Note the blue in the sides of the studio model;

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/media/1701-A 2013/PHull/eaDSC07460-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/media/1701-A 2013/PHull/eaDSC07312-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

Once I get the grid decals on it should look pretty close!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Sorry to say this, but I am not the slightest convinced about that grey at the saucer rim. Yes there is that grey triangle at the lower bow Nav light which was added for the A but wasn’t there on the Refit. The grey strip you added next to the impulse engines however .. nope. 

You need to remember that the saucer rim is also broken up in to small rectangles of interference colors. What you mistake as that grey strip are in fact gold panels (which appear grey in complementary mode) that happen to be close to the impulse engine. But you can also see that they are not at an equal distance from the engine on both sides in your studio model reference picture like you did on your model. You can see the start and end of the supposedly grey panel to the left of the impulse engine here:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/STMPent27_zpsdb996a00.jpg

As you see .. it is NOT a continues strip but starts and ends and yes it is the same one you see on the Ent-A picture. Since it appears dark grey in the B&W and grayish in the color picture it must have been interference gold. 

This one pretty much proofs that the saucer rims overall hull color is the same color as the rest of the saucer / ship

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/eaDSC07348.jpg

In this one you can make out some of the smaller rectangles that break up the overall saucer rim color

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/eaDSC07475.jpg

I tried to copy that on my build

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/SensorStripsBack0_zps26a4a1f4.jpg

So: Saucer rim color is same as the primary hull color but is also broken up by small rectangles like the rest of the Aztec. For the Ent-A the grid lines where weathered in a grey shade to make them stand out more. On the Refit they had no color and because they are carved deep in to the saucer rim their shadow was enough to make them appear dark, same on the engineering hull. That is one of the fundamental differences of Refit vs Ent-A: weathered grid lines to make them more prominent. If you look at the Refit you’ll notice that on some pictures / angels she seems to have no grid lines at all while in others you can see them very well.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Ah, a healthy debate...

I concede your point Thorston - for the Refit. But not the A. 

I know you are recognized by many as an authority on this ship, and I also have learned a few things from your work. Your recent build was of the Refit so I understand your position. And I agree - the Refit had iridescent squares and rectangles - as demonstrated nicely in TrekModeller's latest Refit.

However, for the A, I see light blue-gray on the sides of the PHull and I will trust what I see in the photos. I see very little hints of the old Refit pattern UNDER the blue-gray and thats it. I'm holding fast to this point and believe therefore that the side panels were repainted for the A. This is easy to believe as the entire ship was retouched in one way or another. 

I believe this montage shows this conclusively - and either way by the time my build is done it will look very close to this! 

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/media/1701-A 2013/PHull/PHullStripes.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Aztec test! Using an old hull piece and beatup old stencil, I tested the iridescent blue aztec;

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-09_22-34-22_619.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7

Initial result is typical: bright blue when the light is at reflection angle, and obvious, reddish-yellow look when not at reflection angle. These effects are much too obvious and overwhelm the overall look of the hull, especially on the A, which is much more toned down than the Refit.

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-09_22-48-58_733.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

I then tested a wipe-on coat of satin, with a touch of blue to help balance the yellowing that comes from clearcoats. I finally got a good mix for this wipe-on coat that tones down both effects of the aztecs and adds a nice overall finish that looks more like galvanized steel and has just the right amount of reflectivity. I will use this as final top coat instead of spraying on gloss or satin.

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-09_23-35-46_214.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-09_23-36-23_145.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-09_23-37-06_615.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Hm … you might be right. I reviewed my Ent-A pics and there could be a very light blue grey layer between the outer most grid lines. The problem, on both high res sets (Christies Auction, Mark Dickson) there are shots where the rim appears to be the same color as the overall hull, in other shots the area between the two outermost grids seems to have that light grey touch.

So either ILM did indeed paint it over, perhaps when weathering the grid lines, or it’s a visual illusion due to camera angel, light conditions. Also because of the dark grid lines, which are close together, the color in-between could appear different, when in truth it’s not, also an optical illusion. and so on. 

As with so many things concerning the Refit/Ent-A it’s up to interpretation and open to change by the individual builder. 

But I can tell you this, if I ever build a 1/350 as Ent-A she won’t have blue tinted saucer rim.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

colhero said:


> I think I recreated the finish pretty effectively so far on the Secondary Hull.


That sheen looks great! Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

I … see … blue …. Stripes!!!!!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Hehe - I - see - stripes...

Garbaron makes another good point in that the blue stripe is very faint and in some angles doesnt appear at all. But I'm pretty convinced they were lightly painted over or at least thats how it looks to me. But, I did recently lighten the tone of the stripe and once the grid decals are on, it should look real close - if the decals arent too prominent. But Garbaron used the sensor band decals very effectively so hopefully mine will look as good! :thumbsup:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Did you consider using the interference blue for the rim strip? Two birds killed with one stone: you'll have the blue, but it will only be visible under certain light conditions and angels.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Garbaron said:


> ...you'll have the blue, but it will only be visible under certain light conditions and angels.


Only for those who are truly blessed!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Yeah well you know . .the other angel .. the one where the e is the last letter.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

yeh - blessed are the angles!! hehe

I dont think I would go with the interference blue on the sides cuz so far I havent seen any evidence of interference-ness - I just keep seeing blue-gray. Plus the I-Blue actually looks reddish-yellow when its not doing the interfering thing. 

I watched Undiscovered Country last nite and was specifically looking for any glints from the sides and didnt see a one. And I noticed that the interference aztecs overall were so toned down you have to know they are there to see them. 

Screencaps:

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/ScreenCaps?sort=3&page=1


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Aztecs aplenty! -got the base aztecs done -I use stencils, one for each opposing pattern and spray the back with remountable adhesive. I then spray 3 light coats of the Wasco paint, let it dry and move on to the next pie slice. Takes about 15 mins per slice and the result is crisp and doesnt leave unsightly raised edges like masks do. Also much easier to use than masks and dont have to worry about paint peeling. I would actually recommend this process over masks any day.

As I mentioned before, the aztecs will be toned down quite a bit when I wipe on a satin overcoat, to more closely resemble the much less obvious look of the A.

Some shots with test bridge-

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/PHull?sort=3&page=1


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Added the secondary, smaller aztecs:

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-17_19-46-40_829.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-17_19-47-29_266.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

Still have to do the upper decks, then wipe-on a satin overcoat. 

A shot of my finished test PHull with the Studio;

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/media/1701-A 2013/PHull/yhjymyumyu.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great!

One thing thought and if its not too late for you main build: sand down those phaser banks! I should have done this too but only realized it way after it was too late. The kits saucer phaser bank decals all have the same size ... the saucers phaser banks don't! 

Also the phaser banks are flush with the hull (minus the emitter bump) and not a raised detail like on the PL kit. I liked the look initially that is why I kept them, in hindsight I should have sanded them down.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> Looks great!
> 
> One thing thought and if its not too late for you main build: sand down those phaser banks!.


Yeh you're right and I had thought about that quite a bit but I couldnt think of a fool-proof way to recreate the turrets! And then I lost my patience - now its too late... :freak:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Applied aztecs to center section and B/C decks - came out VERY bright:

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...ll/2013-12-19_23-44-57_62.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

But then I toned it down with some wipe-on base coat;

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/Co...l/2013-12-20_00-00-02_215.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9

After I pencil-in the grid lines it will all be toned down nicely with a wipe-on satin coat. :thumbsup:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Coming along really well and looks awesome!

To calm you down, the same thing around C deck happened on my build: 

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/teaser2_zps2b62e208.jpg

For some reason that area makes the colors shine much more than on the rest of the hull, even though its the same mixture.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Ha! yours and mine look almost exactly alike - you have a little more detail and other colors in yours - I lost my patience


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Added the grid lines - I use a fine 0.2 pencil with HB lead - I roll the lead on scrap paper to sharpen the point, hold the pencil at 45 degrees and lightly drag the pencil through the grooves. I barely use any pressure and let the groove do the work. I slowly spin the pencil on its axis as I drag it along to help the point stay even. This process is actually pretty easy - but the more paint there is, the more difficult it is. If the pencil jumps out of the groove it can be fixed with a clean white eraser.

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/PHull?sort=3&page=1

I tested using a super fine black pen but couldnt find one fine enough. Plus, the lines are actually gray, not black and the black stands out too much.

The tools I used - mag glasses, 0.2 pencil, white eraser, brush and sheet styrene straight edge;

Then I smeared on some HB pencil lead over the whole thing to add some "aging";

Next will be the wipe-on which will tone it all down and provide the final finish. Then flat colors: bridge fan, Impulse crystal port, thrusters, etc.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

Wow, looking good! I was looking at the Christie's auction pics today for my Refit and thinking to myself that I don't envy anyone trying to reproduce the Enterprise-A paint scheme. You've got the saucer that's mostly just been toned down, the sides of the secondary hull that's been repainted, the belly and hangar bays that look like they've just had a new paint scheme laid over the old Refit pattern, etc.

A couple of questions:

1: When you say you're using stencils as opposed to masks for the saucer aztec, what product are you using? I've got Orbital Drydock's masks for the main pattern, but I've been scratching my head as to how I'm going to do all the sub patterns. And you mentioned adhesive spray?

2: Are you using the Wasco lacquers or acrylics? I'm using the acrylics and they drive me bonkers! Two little kids and no good ventilation mean I can't use the lacquers, though.

Thanks.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Barry;

Actually, I believe the Refit scheme is much more intense - I'm not sure I would have the patience for it! The secondary hull patterns are crazy complex - the A just has random rectangles... The Refit has tiny little patterns on the sides of the primary hull - the A just has light blue-gray stripes... Toning down the iridescent aztecs is easy with a thin wipe-on of white paint or adding clear to the paint mix. 

BIG KUDOS to you, Garbaron, Trek Modeler, Jason Ware and others who have tackled the Refit! :thumbsup:

As far as the aztec stencils, I cut my own out of gloss photo paper;

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/slideshow/1701-A 2013/PHull

I just lightly sprayed on a remountable adhesive to tack them on - you can buy this at office supply stores, craft stores even some pharmacies and supermarkets.

I used the water-based Wasco paints - this is really my first time using an airbrush, so I cant really compare lacquer to acrylic. I hear the pigments in lacquers are smaller for a finer finish, which would certainly look better, but are much more difficult to work with.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> Barry;
> 
> Actually, I believe the Refit scheme is much more intense - I'm not sure I would have the patience for it! The secondary hull patterns are crazy complex - the A just has random rectangles... The Refit has tiny little patterns on the sides of the primary hull - the A just has light blue-gray stripes... Toning down the iridescent aztecs is easy with a thin wipe-on of white paint or adding clear to the paint mix.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I'll look into the photo paper. I've got some plain old frisket paper, but the times I've tried it it's been hard to work with.

We're using the same paints, then, and this is also my first real use of an airbrush. Have you had any problems with them lifting? Mine don't like to stay down sometimes.

I've had to simplify the patterns in places on the secondary hull, especially the sides, as I don't have the time, skill, or patience to do it fully.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Barry,

Yeh if the paint is lifting its prolly cuz you are using masks, right? I havent worked with masks much on this job, but I have used masking tape and so far, I been lucky with no lifting. My Wasco paint was applied over a coat of waterbase white (w/blu/gray tint) over a a base of primer and Testors Flt Wht.

But this is another reason I recommend stencils - you dont have to heavy stick them onto the surface. I just lightly tack them on and the stencil edges arent really making contact with the surface - but the paint doesnt care and the edges still come out sharp. And NO RAISED BUILD-UP on the edges!!

Anytime I use even just masking tape I end up having to carefully scrape off the built-up edges and using an eraser to get rid of the tiny glue residue.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Ha! yours and mine look almost exactly alike - you have a little more detail and other colors in yours - I lost my patience



I hear you. Adding the three colors for the secondary Aztec on the saucer was a BIG pain in the ass. But your secondary patterns fit the main Aztec much better than mine since you used stencils instead of masking foil. I used the AztecDummy mask and did not dare to leave it on until adding the secondary Aztec, thus had to create a new mask for the secondary Aztec but it never really lined up that well. 



colhero said:


> Added the grid lines - I use a fine 0.2 pencil with HB lead - I roll the lead on scrap paper to sharpen the point, hold the pencil at 45 degrees and lightly drag the pencil through the grooves. I barely use any pressure and let the groove do the work. I slowly spin the pencil on its axis as I drag it along to help the point stay even. This process is actually pretty easy - but the more paint there is, the more difficult it is. If the pencil jumps out of the groove it can be fixed with a clean white eraser.
> 
> http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/PHull?sort=3&page=1
> 
> ...


LOVE it!

I was debating for a very long time if I wanted to highlight the grid lines, until I realized this is one of the Ent-A features! The Refit does NOT have darkened grid lines, that is why on some shots it looks like she does not have a deflector grid, on others you see them very well. This is because the grid lines are carved in to the hull and shadow casting makes them visible. 

Love these two shot of my Refit, I think a big factor for that particular look I like so much are the subtle deflector grid lines:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/litTour12_zpsab05341c.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/litTour20_zpseeb30465.jpg

To me those scream "That's the Enterprise form Star Trek: The Motion Picture". 
Achieve this TMP Refit recognition effect was my personal goal for this build and I think I nailed it!


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> Barry,
> 
> Yeh if the paint is lifting its prolly cuz you are using masks, right? I havent worked with masks much on this job, but I have used masking tape and so far, I been lucky with no lifting. My Wasco paint was applied over a coat of waterbase white (w/blu/gray tint) over a a base of primer and Testors Flt Wht.
> 
> ...


I've so far only used masks for the deflector housing. The set I have is not at all accurate for the Refit secondary hull. I've been doing all the patterns with individual pieces of masking tape so far. Drives ya nuts, after a while :drunk:

I'm going to give your photo paper method a shot on the outboard pylon pattern and see how it goes. I'm really not looking forward to trying to do it with cutting pieces of tape to make the lightning bolts.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

I grabbed some photo paper today at Target (matte finish, but I don't see that that would matter) and can of this stuff at Staples http://www.staples.com/Scotch-Spray-Mount-Repositionable-Adhesive-102-oz/product_130831

I'm guessing that's the kind of spray you're talking about?


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> I grabbed some photo paper today at Target (matte finish, but I don't see that that would matter) and can of this stuff at Staples http://www.staples.com/Scotch-Spray-Mount-Repositionable-Adhesive-102-oz/product_130831
> 
> I'm guessing that's the kind of spray you're talking about?



Try cutting a small aztec pattern and test it first - the gloss photo paper wont absorb the paint like the matt stuff would. Plus the gloss paper is a little stiffer, so overall it will last longer and stay flat. I have an aztec pie slice stencil that is still flat and stiff after dozens of uses.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> I hear you. Adding the three colors for the secondary Aztec on the saucer was a BIG pain in the ass. But your secondary patterns fit the main Aztec much better than mine since you used stencils instead of masking foil. I used the AztecDummy mask and did not dare to leave it on until adding the secondary Aztec, thus had to create a new mask for the secondary Aztec but it never really lined up that well.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You may be right again - for the Refit - but the A sure looks like the grid lines are gray to me! hehe There are photos using flash directly over the saucer (no shadows possible) and the grid lines are dark, so I'm going with that...

As far as your build, its definitely in my fav list, and you did such a nice job all around - azteccing, details (like flux grills) and especially lighting (much nicer than mine will be)- I'm just not a fan of that brownish-tan-gray color we talked about!


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> Try cutting a small aztec pattern and test it first - the gloss photo paper wont absorb the paint like the matt stuff would. Plus the gloss paper is a little stiffer, so overall it will last longer and stay flat. I have an aztec pie slice stencil that is still flat and stiff after dozens of uses.


Gave it a test today with some random patterns on the spare secondary hull bottom. I just did a few light passes with the blue and it worked great. You're my new best friend! No raised paint lines at all. No paint bleeding under the stencil. If it works well on the outboard pylons, I may forgo using the mask set I have on the saucer.

Just one more question and I swear I'll stop threadjacking your build post. How long do you let the adhesive set before placing it on the model? The instructions indicate the longer you wait before placement, the lighter the bond. I don't want it too strong so as to minimize lifting.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> Gave it a test today with some random patterns on the spare secondary hull bottom. I just did a few light passes with the blue and it worked great. You're my new best friend! No raised paint lines at all. No paint bleeding under the stencil. If it works well on the outboard pylons, I may forgo using the mask set I have on the saucer.
> 
> Just one more question and I swear I'll stop threadjacking your build post. How long do you let the adhesive set before placing it on the model? The instructions indicate the longer you wait before placement, the lighter the bond. I don't want it too strong so as to minimize lifting.


First, I dont mind the questions, as knowledge sharing is what these forums are all about! I spray the adhesive on lightly and let it sit for 5 mins, then test the tack on a test piece. Glad it's working out for ya - saves a lot of time and aggravation - once you get past cutting the stencils ...


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

PHull aztecs and clearcoat finished -

OK, I got the final top coat done - but I had a huge initial FAIL with the wipe-on satin that I've been mentioning. On my test piece it came out perfect - dulled the aztecs and gave a nice reflectivity - but when I applied it over the final piece it came out too glossy - FAIL!

I was pretty PO'd 

Then I realized that I had added a step on the final that I didnt replicate in test first - aaaaarrrgggg - LESSON - ALWAYS TEST EXACT SAME STEPS AS FINAL

So, in order to fix it I had to spray the whole final piece with dullcoat. Then I had to change my formula for the wipe-on to 3 parts MATTE clear. Then as I wiped this on, I realized it was too dull -of course. So I had to add a couple drops of gloss till I finally got it right. PITA 

I finally SETTLED - the aztecs and top coat result is 90% of what my goal was for this segment of the build. The aztecs are nicely toned down and the top reflectivity layer is a bit less than a satin finish - and doesnt look over-powering or sprayed on.

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013/PHull/Final TopCoat?sort=3&page=1


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Now it looks even more similar to my own build. If I ever try another one of these I will attempt to preserve the mat/gloss of the Aztec/primary color she had before adding a clear coat. It's what the Refit originally had, but opted to sacrifice the effect in order to protect the decals.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> Now it looks even more similar to my own build. If I ever try another one of these I will attempt to preserve the mat/gloss of the Aztec/primary color she had before adding a clear coat. It's what the Refit originally had, but opted to sacrifice the effect in order to protect the decals.


Actually, I think your azteccing looks great and the overall finish looks really perfect for the Refit. You did a great job on the patterns, colors and got a nice, balanced, not too obvious tone :thumbsup:

Question: your base coat and the interference colors look pretty smooth - how you do them? Lacquers? Maybe the water-base I been using has pigments that are too thick...?


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Thanks, glad you like her and much appreciated. 

Lots of wet sanding to get rid of the masking edges 

I always waited at least two days for the colors to cure before doing a wet sanding pass since I used acrylics + PearEx powder. The base color was a Marabu white spray can. In hind sight I should have prepared the base color even more since I think it would have avoided some / a lot of the lifting issues when I was doing the Aztec paint job.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Yeh, the stencil trick really works great - no raised/built-up edges to sand down... I used stencils on the pylons and SHull as well. Too bad it wont work for sharp curved areas or small parts like the sensor array... or the nacelles-aaaarrgh

So, how did you get that great looking hotspot effect on the Def? Best I've seen!


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## Guns Akimbo (Nov 4, 2013)

colhero said:


> Did the Aztecs, grid lines and decals on the Impulse engine.


Maybe I'm a bit late to this thread, but how did you manage to mask the impulse crystal so cleanly? Very impressive build on the 1/350!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Guns Akimbo said:


> Maybe I'm a bit late to this thread, but how did you manage to mask the impulse crystal so cleanly? Very impressive build on the 1/350!


Actually I just bit the bullet and went free-hand, like many people do. But I do use wearable magnifying glasses which helps tremendously! Masking would take more patience than freehand...


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Yeh, the stencil trick really works great - no raised/built-up edges to sand down... I used stencils on the pylons and SHull as well. Too bad it wont work for sharp curved areas or small parts like the sensor array... or the nacelles-aaaarrgh
> 
> So, how did you get that great looking hotspot effect on the Def? Best I've seen!


A piece of paper is all it takes! 

First you drill a hole in the deflector housing about 2 - 2.5cm in diameter. This will determine the size of the central hot spot. So if you want a bigger one drill a bigger hole, smaller one, smaller hole. Best start small, make a lit test and if you don't like the size make it bigger. Next you’ll need an opaque tube about 3cm in diameter and it can NOT be any longer then the distance rear deflector housing <-> secondary hulls vertical forward support. The tube will house your two LEDs (blue/amber). Mount the tube to the back of the deflector housing and make sure the connection is light sealed so no light form the secondary hull light setup will bleed in to your deflector. 

Once the tube is mounted and sealed it should look something like this
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/LEDmount.jpg

Next you cut a disk out of printer paper that is a bit larger than the deflector housings hole you created. Gently glue it to the inside of the deflector. The deflector itself should be painted in silver, it will later create the grayish look the Refits /As powered down deflector has and won’t make the dish too bright like a white coating would do. Aim the two LEDs in a way so their own hot spot hits the center of the paper disk, this will avoid the dishes hot spot to jump when you switch between the two modes. 

This is a test paper disk in place on my deflector housing
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/pieceofpaper.jpg

Test shots with test paper disc and frosted deflector clear part in place:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/off.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/amber.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/blue.jpg

Finished shots:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l...llery selection/GalleryUnlit5_zps17d4a0fb.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l...Gallery selection/GalleryLit7_zps6739ca8b.jpg

The most important part to my deflector effect is that piece of paper! Makes sure its “fine” paper used for documents, not some cheap stuff, since the papers plant fiber origins will show up.

P.S.

Before you ask: the deflector spokes are 1mm x 10mm sheet styrene strips glued on top of the sanded down clear parts own spokes


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

That is awesome, thank you for posting how you did that!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

harristotle said:


> That is awesome, thank you for posting how you did that!


Ditto! Very nice deflector - the best - I used a blue-gray paper cone behind the def crystal to get my effect, which looks good but doesnt have the nice wide warm spot. I used decal paper strips for the crystal spokes and also shaved off the "rails" in front of the Def clamps and replaced them at a sharper angle - mine are slightly too sharp but still looks good - the parallel stock rails were a big peeve for me, like the shape of the Flux Grilles and lower sensor, etc.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> First, I dont mind the questions, as knowledge sharing is what these forums are all about! I spray the adhesive on lightly and let it sit for 5 mins, then test the tack on a test piece. Glad it's working out for ya - saves a lot of time and aggravation - once you get past cutting the stencils ...


Thanks. I used the stencil for the pylon today, and while the paint went on great (no raised edges, yay!) the adhesive left a lot of residue behind. I can't tell if it's the glue or tiny balls of the photo paper or what. It comes off easily enough, but it could be an issue rubbing it off over the Wasco paints. You're using the gloss paper, do you apply the adhesive spray to the gloss or flat side of the paper?

I'm going to try some more tests with different drying times for the spray and see if I can't isolate the problem.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> Thanks. I used the stencil for the pylon today, and while the paint went on great (no raised edges, yay!) the adhesive left a lot of residue behind. I can't tell if it's the glue or tiny balls of the photo paper or what. It comes off easily enough, but it could be an issue rubbing it off over the Wasco paints. You're using the gloss paper, do you apply the adhesive spray to the gloss or flat side of the paper?
> 
> I'm going to try some more tests with different drying times for the spray and see if I can't isolate the problem.


Sounds like you might be using too much spray - technically, the stencils dont even need to be tacked with adhesive as long as they are laying flat - so you could try just using a couple pieces of tape to hold them down instead of the glue - with the spray adhesive, I too get some residue but it comes off easy with a clean white eraser.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Garbaron said:


> A piece of paper is all it takes!
> 
> First you drill a hole in the deflector housing about 2 - 2.5cm in diameter. This will determine the size of the central hot spot. So if you want a bigger one drill a bigger hole, smaller one, smaller hole. Best start small, make a lit test and if you don't like the size make it bigger. Next you’ll need an opaque tube about 3cm in diameter and it can NOT be any longer then the distance rear deflector housing <-> secondary hulls vertical forward support. The tube will house your two LEDs (blue/amber). Mount the tube to the back of the deflector housing and make sure the connection is light sealed so no light form the secondary hull light setup will bleed in to your deflector.
> 
> ...


That.Is.AWESOME! I think this best captures the look of the movie miniature. One question: is it possible to use 1 RGB LED instead of the 2 you have, or did you try that and not like the effect?


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

RossW said:


> That.Is.AWESOME! I think this best captures the look of the movie miniature. One question: is it possible to use 1 RGB LED instead of the 2 you have, or did you try that and not like the effect?


Sure. It will make things even easier since you won't have to aim two LEDs to hit the center of the paper disk but only one.  

Edit:

In case you guys have not seen parts of it yet:

http://s92.photobucket.com/user/Garbaron/media/PL Refit/PLRefitMovieWiP_zpsf60e8e0a.mp4.html


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## 1711rob (Mar 15, 2006)

*Wow*

WOW that is awesome !!! :thumbsup: great video edits ...and your work I bow to you, freaking amazing !!:wave:


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

Garbaron said:


> Sure. It will make things even easier since you won't have to aim two LEDs to hit the center of the paper disk but only one.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> ...


Can you post that to YouTube or something please. So that it has the bandwidth to play without stopping to buffer every five seconds.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

MartinHatfield said:


> Can you post that to YouTube or something please. So that it has the bandwidth to play without stopping to buffer every five seconds.


I do not have a youtube channel, but you should be able to download it from the link I gave. There should be an option to the right of the video. In case you cant download it let me know and I'll try to upload it to a portal for you to download.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Garbaron said:


> Sure. It will make things even easier since you won't have to aim two LEDs to hit the center of the paper disk but only one.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> ...


I should have figured this out before asking, but to make an orange colour I'd need to use 3 RGB LEDs (with 3 RGBs you can make almost any colour you want). One more than yours so hardly worth the effort.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Guys - please let's try and keep discussion of other members ideas a little shorter. Thanks!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Added detail paint to PHull top - Bridge "fan", B-C deck gray stripe and Impulse section - 4 different blue-grays used. Some shots with Test Bridge...


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## hubert (May 3, 2008)

ColHero, I love your very subtle paneling and highlights from the pictures of this thread. IMHO, it helps with the scale tremendously. Has this, I assume, been an intentional approach?

PS - I should also state my admiration the many different looks of the 'E' in such builds as Garbaron, Lizzybus, Trekmodeler, etc. and feel each has it's own merits.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Love the added bridge detail, your colors seem to be much closer to the studio miniature than what I have done.

But .. (bet you knew there was a "but" in there ) .. your bridge "fan" color is missing that slight light green tint it needs to have. 

See Ent-A reference: http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/BCDeckReferences0.jpg

Also that color around the impulse crystal is a bit too dark and too blue. 
Looks like you used the same color for the crystal you used for the forward crystal housing extension.

Am also a bit worried .. how are you going to add the VIP window frames without ruining that splendid paint job of yours? 
To get those frames to blend in lots of sanding and filling will be required.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> Love the added bridge detail, your colors seem to be much closer to the studio miniature than what I have done.
> 
> But .. (bet you knew there was a "but" in there ) .. your bridge "fan" color is missing that slight light green tint it needs to have.
> 
> ...



Aaah - on the Bridge "Fan" color, I concede that my color isnt green enough - actually, I had the perfect color that was tested and compared to screen shots thoroughly - but when I applied it to this final version it looked way too light. I adjusted and re-applied the color 3 times and got PO'd - and settled on what we see now. Same with the Impulse section color - needs a little green tint. I'm still not sure why it worked in Test but not in Prod... But I will triple-test the blue-gray color for the top of the bridge and ring before the final version.

However, even though I have "settled" on these colors, I feel I've hit my 90% accuracy goal. The Bridge is still only a "test" version.



















I would also like to point out that though I welcome suggestions about accuracy, I would ask that the suggestor accompany their suggestions with side-by-side examples of their build/studio model to fully demonstrate their point. 

I have taken the liberty of offering such a comparison - the studio version is in the middle, mine on top and Garbaron's on bottom. 










The only adjustments made to my photos are OVERALL aspects such as lighting, contrast and color tone (redder tint mostly) to match the OVERALL tones of the studio versions, which are untouched. I do not change any specific details or colors or hide any mistakes.

As far as the VIP window, I havent yet settled on a method, but it will be one that requires a minimum of invasive work - my 2006 build I just cut a piece of clear styrene and tacked it on with 3 decal paper strips that were used as the mullions. Its still holdin up pretty solid. :thumbsup:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Um … mouth shut. No comments, except … looks pretty darn accurate to me. Carry on! :thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Aaaarrgghh - I've decided to push for more accuracy in the colors - PITA but it irkes me to see the difference...


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> I have taken the liberty of offering such a comparison - the studio version is in the middle, mine on top and Garbaron's on bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


:thumbsup:

I'd say we both are pretty damn close, but still have that ounce of individuality that makes our builds unique and distinguishable  



> As far as the VIP window, I havent yet settled on a method, but it will be one that requires a minimum of invasive work - my 2006 build I just cut a piece of clear styrene and tacked it on with 3 decal paper strips that were used as the mullions. Its still holdin up pretty solid. :thumbsup:


I also used clear styrene but it requiered some sanding and filling to blend in tot he VIP lounge counters.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> I'd say we both are pretty damn close, but still have that ounce of individuality that makes our builds unique and distinguishable  QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

That's it - I'm done trying to get the Bridge colors perfect - time to settle and move on. The final version of the Bridge will be next. 

All the comparison shots I take help show the colors in different lighting and angles which is imperative in determining color accuracy. But I still cant get them exactly right in all aspects... the "fan" still needs a couple percent more green tint, but to the naked eye it already looks too green.... :freak:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

hubert said:


> ColHero, I love your very subtle paneling and highlights from the pictures of this thread. IMHO, it helps with the scale tremendously. Has this, I assume, been an intentional approach?
> 
> PS - I should also state my admiration the many different looks of the 'E' in such builds as Garbaron, Lizzybus, Trekmodeler, etc. and feel each has it's own merits.


Thanks for the compliment sir! Yes, my intent is to be as accurate and subtle as necessary to replicate the look of the studio model. I want to able to look at it up close and still have a sense of scale and not look toyish, but its very difficult even with the size of this model.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Am amazed how close you can get to the studio models colors. 
You Sir, are a magician in color mixing that is for sure. 

I never seemed to hit it just right, bu had the leeway of doing the Refit of which we do not have high quality color pictures, like we have for the Ent-A, to reference to. So there is lots of interpretation on my build. 

Yours however is SPOT ON when it comes to the Ent-A. 
Bravo! 

(once we get clear color pictures of the Refit I am bound to do another one)


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> Am amazed how close you can get to the studio models colors.
> You Sir, are a magician in color mixing that is for sure.
> 
> I never seemed to hit it just right, bu had the leeway of doing the Refit of which we do not have high quality color pictures, like we have for the Ent-A, to reference to. So there is lots of interpretation on my build.
> ...


That's quite a compliment Thorston - I'm honored 

And despite lack of color photos, I think your Refit is sweet - just tone down that one tannish-brown-gray color and BAM! Super-Sweet. And the lighting is the best I've seen. 

As far as the colors, it has been a very frustrating endeavor to get them close - not right - just close. I lost track of how many hours and how many comparison photos and tests and re-mixes and re-masking and I still think I only hit 90% accuracy. I'm a little bummed actually, cuz the whole reason I started this second build was that I had a vision of recreating the studio model in miniature. But half-way through and I already have a list of my own inaccuracies and things I would do differently. Perfection is unobtainable! So, the important thing is to be happy with our results :dude: 

Plus I have to admit, I didnt realize lighting it would be such a PITA.... which is why I hold your lighting job in very high esteem and give big kudos to everyone who lights their ships! :thumbsup:


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

RossW said:


> I should have figured this out before asking, but to make an orange colour I'd need to use 3 RGB LEDs (with 3 RGBs you can make almost any colour you want). One more than yours so hardly worth the effort.


Read more, post less. That's my 2014 New Year's resolution.

Looking into RGBs more closely, they have individual pins for the Red/Green/Blue pins so you can in fact make any colour you want by applying the appropriate fade to each. Not sure if I can fade from blue to orange directly, but I'll experiment.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Been working on the bottom of the PHull, base color, aztecs, wipe-on satin and then the flat colored panels. Fairly happy with it though the gold in the center ring might need to be washed out a little still. 

I also used thin sheet styrene for light blocking the outer edge - the plan being that I have already pre-fitted the bottom very well to the top so that I will have to use a bare minimum of glue on the rim and no filling and light blocking once its glued to the top. The seam will be minimal and be hidden by the grid decals. Thats the plan anyway...

I used stencils again for all the patterns, including one from clear decal paper for the tiny details in the center ring. Again, I think stencils are the way to go whenever possible! 

The aztecs were too bright at first but toned down nicely when I wiped on the thin clear satin, leaving a great tone for the aztecs and the overall sheen. 










More shots (stencils, details, light blocking, etc here:

http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A 2013?sort=3&page=1


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Beautiful! I love movie era ships, and the subtle aztek such as that on the refit is one of the reasons!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Been working on PHull lighting and getting ready for assembly. In the meantime, heres a quick compare shot - lighting is off but still shows a good color match - except that the blues on the neck and deflector are greened-out by the flash:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Finally finished the Bridge... lot of work - mostly to get the colors just right, but also had to make a base for it since the "rails" molded into the kit on top of B-deck dont fit exactly. All the dark lines are hand-drawn, using a stencil for the dome rings. The blue ring around the dome was also painted by hand, but that's fairly obvious. The seams in the front will be less obvious once its glued to the hull. Pretty happy with how it came out! :thumbsup:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great!

I had planned to highlight the rings on top and the trapezoids at the base of the dome on my build too, but in the end did not do it. Now that I See you rs .. it makes a difference and adds detail. Perhaps ...


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Fantastic paint job! I thought that only chinese had the necessary patience to do such a detailed, clean and sharp micro-work. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Fantastic! Most models, mainly my own, when photographed at a macro level never hold up but yours are ridiculously clean and accurate. The aztecs are perfect.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Yes, that's a really tight and clean paint job!


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Amazing job!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks guys! Though I gotta remember to lay off the coffee before this kind of detail work... Next on to the Lower Sensor Array.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Frustration strikes again....

After many hours of work on the Lower Sensor Array - shaping, dome ring, etc, I cant seem to get the colors just right. Ironically, my Test piece colors are just right - but I painted this piece 6 months ago - for whatever reason the colors I used for that piece just wont look right on the new piece. I spent several more hours re-mixing and testing colors and now the new piece has too much paint on it. I could sand it - again - and keep testing colors, but my patience has run out.

So I will have to settle for using my Test piece - the colors are good, but the shape is stock. I will have to try and shape the light ports to get them to look more studio-ish, but the curved sections between the light ports will have to stay stock - AAARRGGHH

New Sensor:









Test Sensor:









Time to move on and get the PHull finished and mounted...


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

The look of the lower sensor is a tough nut to crack, especially that metallic sheen of the half sphere. As far as I could deceiver the speher was only painted with several layers of the gold Aztec color over the primary white, that is why it looks grey in some instances and gold in others. But since that sphere was a lot larger the curvature more prominently shows the transition from complementary (grey metallic) to interference (gold) which givs the sphere that iconic look. You won’t get that same look on your 1/350 since your half sphere is much smaller thus the transition effect complementary / interference won't show up like it does on the original. Also the sensor arrays Aztec is very light and angle dependend, on some Christi’s shots it is hardly visible on others very prominently. 

I know I did not hit the flash at exactly the same spot but I think am pretty close to what the dome and its Aztec might have looked like on the Refit. Remember, ILM added a milky haze “dull coat” to tone down the Aztec which is still present on the Ent-A (picture on right side ) since I did the TMP Refit everything is more pronounced color and contrast wise (left side). 




Anyway, I think you did a very good job on replicating the look of the lower dome on both versions. Before you discard that second dome ... paint the vents their appropriate color and add the little Aztec greeblies, the darker vent color and those minuscule Aztecs will make a huge difference on the overall look. So add those and than decide on which part to use.  

To me both look great!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Yeh I think I will try and finish the new part and see how it looks, though Im already unhappy that it wont be as clean and smooth as I envisioned. Plus I will have to test new techniques for the dome...

Your dome has a great effect - the soft reflectivity looks really good, as does your azteccing. Though I'm not sure about the gold - your theory has merit in explaining why it looks gray at some angles - but I've never seen the dome as being gold or any interference color and to me it looks like it is actually polished silver covered by a thick translucent coat - which may be how it has a high reflectivity but diffused at the same time - this is the only theory I can come up with to explain this effect, since a glosscoat will give the high reflectivity but it would also be too sharp. And I cant yet think of a way to duplicate this effect....


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

BTW Thorston, there was a thread in another forum discussing QMX builds and I ranted about them and stated that if they can call their models "Artisan" and sell them for 6k, then builds like mine, yours and Trekmodellers would sell for 12-15k.


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Just keeps getting better!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

I think it’s rather obvious that the dome has the interference gold applied to it. 
Take the reference I already used next to my build:



You can very well see that “blue / grey” circle at about the middle of the sphere. To get blue you’d need to have the blue Aztec color. But it can’t be that color. We do know that that Aztec spokes surrounding the sensor is Aztec blue with gold rectangles at the top, the blues complementary is a yellowish / goldish color. If you look at the middle of the sphere that color looks gold to me. But it’s not the same color as the Aztec spokes blue complementary. So the dome is not Aztec blue. 

To get that blue grey circle you need Aztec gold since its complementary is exactly that color. If you look at middle section of the top half you’ll notice that the outer most two concentric rings are gold too, while at the lower half those two rings have that blue grey color again. If you follow the two outer most rings you see that their color transitions from gold to that blue grey. The only color that does this is Interference gold. 

The sphere on the Refit was rather large compared to the much smaller one on the PL 1/350 Refit model. That large spheres curvature is what creates that blue grey circle as it transitions from its interference gold at the middle to its blue grey complimentary further out.

I think I should have added atleast one or two more layers on mine, than pollish the sphere up and apply a semi gloss with some gloss mixed in to give it a stronger sheen. 
Try it out on your test dome ... you have the advantage to do that I only had that one kit part and did not want to mess it up. 



Oh and, yeah I saw your “rant” and you are absolutely right. Those QMX models are ridiculously overpriced and would put our builds to double or triple their price. But if people are willing to pay that price … who can blame them? Am sure if you look those QMX Refits close up you’ll find lots of short cuts otherwise they could not mass build them.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Your theory is certainly sounding more reasonable, but still, in all my research I have never seen what I thought was gold, which I think would be more obvious if your theory is correct. I think the gold that is seen in your ref pic is actually an artifact of a pearlescent effect. My theory now is that the dome itself is actually a dull clear with a silver or grey dome underneath. I still like the way yours looks better than my current method, but Im still not satisfied...


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Like I said. The sensor dome sphere look is a tough nut to crack. 

At one point I thought that perhaps, just perhaps, that blue / grey middle ring was actually a translucent silver layer over the primary white and on top of it several layers of the Aztec gold, that’s why it also shows gold traces on some pictures, but has that darker ring on most of them. I tried it out with PearlEX silver in clear but did not like the look as the silver made the middle ring look much too dark. This convinced me that there was no silver and that the ring as the effect of going from interference to complementary due to the spheres curvature. So I removed it and did the "Aztec gold over white dome" thing, which I think comes closest to the look. 

Perhaps you can create a finer silver middle ring that does not appear to be too dark and then add the gold and achieve the correct look? 

Thing to complicate it all is, that in some shots in the movies the dome does not appear silver / meatllic at all but has the main hull white. I tried to ask Paul Olsen about the dome when I was still painting the lower saucer, but at one point he just stopped answering my e-mails, guess I annoyed him too much or he was just too busy writing his "Making of the Enterpise" book.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Yep - tuff nut. And you are correct again that at some angles the dome looks the same white as the hull. Aaaaaarrrggh. I will give your method a try.

In the meantime I experimented with my theory that the dome is transluscent with silver underneath. I took 2 test deflector dishes and painted one with chrome and one with dullcoat, then put the clear one over the chrome - the effect looks pretty good in that you get the slight silver tone without it being overpowering and you get the reflective duality (high reflectivity but diffuse instead of sharply focused) - also, from the side the dome looks white.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Your chrome sphere underneath frosted translucent sphere looks very promising. 
Perhaps it was a combination of the two? 
Chrome dome under translucent dome, while the translucent dome is sprayed over with a thin layers of Aztec gold? 

Hm …


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Finally finished the Lower Sensor Array - For the dome I settled on using Pearl mixed with a bit of Silver - still not happy with it but I havent been able to reproduce the Studio effect. I tried silver, pearl, heavy clear coats, interference gold, etc... 

I re-shaped the sides and light ports and added the dome ring to the kit part. Fairly happy with the shape and colors and patterns - just wish I could have nailed that dome...



















More pix here:
http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A%202013?sort=3&page=1


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great and close enough! Perhaps one day we'll know what they did to give the dome that specific look. That will be the day the two of us start another one. 

One nit though: the two vents on the forward spot housing do not have the same color as the others and have more of a medium grey color to them.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> Looks great and close enough! Perhaps one day we'll know what they did to give the dome that specific look. That will be the day the two of us start another one.
> 
> One nit though: the two vents on the forward spot housing do not have the same color as the others and have more of a medium grey color to them.


I'll meet you halfway on that Nit - most shots of the array all the vents look the same - I would say that it is more logical that they are all the same and just look different at certain angles and lighting, especially since the front set is at a sharper angle and further from the center than the other three. Also, at certain angles and light the other vents and light ports look lighter too.

I digress in that my colors are still a couple shades too dark - they look accurate in some light but when I've tried to lighten them they looked too light. So I settled for the slightly darker.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Light Test:

Im using TrekModellers light kit which is pretty good for a novice like myself. Couple things Im not entirely satisfied with, the thrusters are too red and Im having to learn as I build since this is my first seriously lit model. One thing I did was use white paper behind the windows to help soften the lights and even out the light distribution nicely - gives a more realistic look in my opinion. I also used white paper for the Impulse section as well and used only one light for the engines since in my opinion they would have otherwise looked over-lit. Just wish I had the patience to work the saucer and pylon spotlights in...


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

Nicely done.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> I'll meet you halfway on that Nit - most shots of the array all the vents look the same - I would say that it is more logical that they are all the same and just look different at certain angles and lighting, especially since the front set is at a sharper angle and further from the center than the other three. Also, at certain angles and light the other vents and light ports look lighter too.
> 
> I digress in that my colors are still a couple shades too dark - they look accurate in some light but when I've tried to lighten them they looked too light. So I settled for the slightly darker.


I disagree; all the shots I have seen pretty consistently show that the two forward vents have a much lighter color then the rest. I’ve put three shots showing the lower sensor from three different angels in one picture:



As you can see, the forwards vents always keep that medium grey color as opposed to the darker anthracite of the remaining vents. Most of the TMP b&w shots of the lower saucer are from a distance not close up to the sensor and often too dark and in those I agree it could be that the vents had all the same color. 

But since you are going for the Ent-A only Ent-A shots are relevant and those say: forward vents medium grey, remaining vents dark grey / anthracite.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

Looking amazing. Also, I switched to using a gloss photo paper for the stencils and am having FAR less residue from the adhesive. The paint must have been doing something with the matte to cause the glue to stay behind more.


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

I really like the look of the toned down impulse engines.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

barrydancer said:


> Looking amazing. Also, I switched to using a gloss photo paper for the stencils and am having FAR less residue from the adhesive. The paint must have been doing something with the matte to cause the glue to stay behind more.


Kool - Im glad that technique is working! Lot less aggravation and time than using aztecs...


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Garbaron said:


> I disagree; all the shots I have seen pretty consistently show that the two forward vents have a much lighter color then the rest. I’ve put three shots showing the lower sensor from three different angels in one picture:


You present a good case sir - Im still not convinced - why would they do only the front a different color? However - if one were to paint it your way I couldnt say that it was inaccurate..

This shot shows all vents and ports the same shade:









In this shot the front vents are lighter, yes - but so are the ones at the top - not as light as the front but lighter than the other 2 sides - are they a different color?


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Your pictures do not have a clear shot and even lighting on to the sensor, that is why the fornt vents appear darker. And to me even those two show that the forward vents do NOT have the same color. It sslightligter then th eother vents. The three shots I provided however are dead on to the sensor with no shadow casting and clearly show that the two forward vents are medium grey in color. 

As to why? Because it breaks up the look? Looked better in the artists mind? 

Am sure I could dig up even mor pictures where you can see that those two vents are lighter in color. 
Just take the grey you used for four rectangels at the sides of the spot housing, make it bit darker and you are done. Should take 5min for you.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Regarding the dome itself, I was with you on the "Gold interference" assumption, because of the gold highlight, blue surround seen on an earlier shot. But now, these shots seems to show the reverse: blue highlight, gold surround. Or maybe it's a mix? Hmm … to me though, it definitely looks opaque with an interference paint job.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

It all depends on how the light hits the dome. I dot have a dome of same size as the studio model has, but am sure if you paint it automotive primer white, than several layers of the gold, polish it and add a semi gloss clear to it you would get that effect. If you looked at it dead on you would see the gold in the center and the further you go to the sides the more it would transition to the complementary blue grey, which greates that grey ring you see in most pictures. 

Concerning the blue tint: there is a rumor around that the whole model was given a thin layer of the interference blue before they started the Aztec detail work, but it could never be verified.

But I agree with Colhero on that the dome itself might be frosted (and sprayed over with interference gold) and has a silver / chrome dome underneath, it would explain the silver shimmer it has and can’t be reproduced with interference gold alone (Perhaps, if thats how it is, that chorme dome is the original dome that was ver much like the on on the TOS E and the Probert altered dome was put over that original dome?).


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Im still not convinced on the gold dome thingy - sure I see some gold in the reflection but I also see red, green - to me it looks pearlescent.

Also still not convinced of the lighter front vents on the Sensor being a diff color - However, I will lighten them on mine because that effect does appear much more often than not.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Finally glued the top and bottom primary hulls and added the sensor grid decals. Not perfect but not bad. The JT Graphics decals themselves are a very good alternative to finishing the side panels, just takes a lot of patience to get them aligned just right.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Those decals are pretty convincing! Overall, we're looking pretty tight, sharp and clean!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great and that blue grey rim isn't nearly as prominent as I though it would look like. Good job! 

@SteveR 

Yes, those JTGraphics sensor band decals are great. I used them on my build too: 

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l...Gallery selection/GalleryLit9_zpsfae8a201.jpg

You need to slice them in to smaler pieces and seperate the three sensor bands for better application but once you apply decal set they'll melt on to the hull. Saves you a lot of hedache to just sand down the engraved sensor band and go the decal route. I would do it again.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Added decals and red outlines to bottom of PHull - I cut each character out of the reg number decal separately and the red outlines were drawn on by hand with a fine-tip permanent red marker. Startin to look like a ship!

Notice how one of the four outer blue-gray rectangles looks gray while the others look lighter blue - they are all the same color but look different depending on light/angle - perfect!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

I know purists can pick anything apart but she is a thing of beauty so far.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

MLCrisis32 said:


> I know purists can pick anything apart but she is a thing of beauty so far.


Funny thing is that I consider myself one of the "purists" - and I have a list of items that Im not completely happy with on this build!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

colhero said:


> Funny thing is that I consider myself one of the "purists" - and I have *a list of items* that Im not completely happy with on this build!


Is that possible?! OMG! The ignorance is a bless.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

colhero said:


> Funny thing is that I consider myself one of the "purists" - and I have a list of items that Im not completely happy with on this build!


Of course but I I simply showing my support because it's already way better than anything I have attempted. :thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Is that possible?! OMG! The ignorance is a bless.


Yeh I may have a touch of insanity about this ship and build - I became obsessed with building a model that was basically an exact replica of the studio model that I could keep in my living room. I had it perfectly envisioned.... But as I started working on it I saw my goal getting further and further away - the limitations at this scale are undeniable - all the little details, seams, light-blocking, colors, overall finish, glue and paint that is just too granular to look like metal - impossible to make a 3' model look like its a miniaturized 8' model! 

Im hitting about 85% of my original goal - I think I am getting a really good sense of scale in my use of colors and detail, but then when you look close enough to appreciate the detail, you see the granularity of the paint.

However, some things I have learned to help achieve a sense of scale;

1. tight workmanship - seams must be clean and sharp and minimized and any shaping of parts must be uniform and symetrical - parts should be aligned and straight as possible - many parts have rounded edges that should be sanded to sharpen them

2. paint - use lacquers instead of acrylics (which I unfortunately used) - the pigments are finer and doesnt look as granular - also, dont over-paint - thick coats are obvious - there are a few parts on mine that have too much paint because of tweaking the colors - aaaaarrrggh

3. colors - colors need to be as accurate as possible, but subdued - the smaller the scale the grayer colors should be - Ex: items that look black on the real thing should be painted dark gray or jet black - one safe thing to do is add a bit of gray to all colors used to give more realism - I did this for all the colors I used and then I actually wiped on some #2 pencil lead to help give a more metallic and slightly weathered appearance

4. decals - kit decals are typically over-sized and too colorful - which is true for this kit as well - the reds are too light - unfortunately I havent been able to successfully create my own decals without buying a laser printer - also, there is way too much excess space on kit decals which usually becomes obvious - dry-rub would probly look best but could be very difficult to work with - so I am using kit and JT Graphics decals and am cutting each decal to trim the edges and may even go over the red with a # 2 pencil to gray them down

5. finishing - models should typically not be glossy - even items (ships, cars etc) that are glossy in real life should not be painted with a coat of gloss at smaller scales because the paint is just too thick and makes a model look toyish - satin would be better - but what I did on mine was wipe on some satin/matte with a micro cloth and slightly rub it in which gave a great looking, thin, realistic look like galvanized steel. Washes might do the same thing. Though a few spots on mine look too glossy because I had to redo them a few time to get the colors right and I lost my patience on the finish! 

Just my too cents on how to achieve scale - wish I knew all this before I started this build!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thank you for take your time to write those very helpful tips. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

I know we have seen enough of the Primary Hull, but its not finished yet! Here are some shots of the finished bridge with decals.

The red stripes were a royal PITA. They kept breaking into little pieces even though I thought they were wet enough. So what you see is actually a patchwork of many little pieces carefully aligned. Also, because the decals dont fit exactly, especially around the back of B/C deck, I purposely cut them and spliced in different pieces to get a better fit. I did the typical Microsol process and then I carefully painted flat clear over them by brush. All together, this was about 5 hours of work - insanity confirmed! 






































And one with flash to show all the added detail:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Great work and I had the same issues with those red stripes, looks like you did an even better fit then me. Thumps up!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

What a spectacular paint job! Extremely sharp, precise and clean.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

You know it's great when we have to check it against the filming miniature … just to make sure we're looking at your model!


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

SteveR said:


> You know it's great when we have to check it against the filming miniature … just to make sure we're looking at your model!


Amen to that!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks again or the generous compliments guys! Finally added the Lounge window. The entire blue-gray window section is a piece of decal paper, cut and painted, including the mullions, with a piece of thin clear plastic stuck to the back of the decal paper. Not too shabby...


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## Larva (Jun 8, 2005)

Love that you show the very faint hull plating on the roof of the B/C deck section.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

Looks amazing. Is there any kind of clear material over the windows?


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Mark2000 said:


> Looks amazing. Is there any kind of clear material over the windows?


The windows are actually just one clear piece of thin plastic that were stuck to the back of the blue-gray window frame, which is decal paper.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Primary Hull = FINISHED!!

One thing that ticks me off is that the red in the decals is too light - the red around the registry should be thinner and deeper red. I tried darkening them with #2 pencil but it only helped a little. Humbug!



















More pix here:
http://s230.photobucket.com/user/ColHero/library/1701-A%202013?sort=3&page=1


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Joined the PHull and SHull - startin to look like a ship! 2/3 of a ship anyway...


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Beautiful!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Breathtaking!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Simply stunning work. I am surprised the officers lounge is plastic I thought it was glass.


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## Guns Akimbo (Nov 4, 2013)

*OUTSTANDING!

* I'd say it gives the original filming miniature a run for its money. I hope to get mine anywhere close to yours, whenever I get around to finally building the thing. I'm still collecting some aftermarket bits (photoetch, paint guides, etc.) as well as an Iwata setup.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks again for the generous compliments gents. Now Im looking for advice on the Nacelle lighting and Display case. For any of you guys that have used Trekmodeller's light kit (before the LED strips) for the Nacelles, Im looking for ideas on how to get the Flux Chiller lighting to be evenly distributed between the 2 bulbs at the ends. Thanks!


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Have you tried getting a clear acrylic rod, sanding it around its circumference, then aiming the LEDs toward each other from each end of the rod? This arrangement would then go behind the flux chillers. You can also stretch the highlights further by placing a sheet of (vertically) sanded clear mylar behind the flux chillers.

You might have to place the lights _behind_ the rod at 1/3 and 2/3 along its length. Or aim them both outboard, so their light bounces back inboard. Then you could just use the sheet of mylar -- no rod necessary.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Some work on the Nacelles: 

I tested the DLM replacement part for the Flux Grilles:



















And for the Flux Chillers I tested using a paper tube between the 2 LEDs - not bad! The white paper you see on the inside of the clear Chiller is actually light blue/purple on the outside.


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## galaxy_jason (May 19, 2009)

Which on is the damn original

Great job


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Did some testing on the Nacelle Flux Chiller color - another enigma - in many studio shots it looks black or dark blue, and then purple. 

So what I did was paint a base of flt black, then a dark blue (slightly purple). THEN, I wiped-on some of the Iridescent Red that was used for the Aztecs. So the end result is at some angles it looks dark blue and at other angles it looks purplish.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great! 


My insights to the nacelle enigma. According to Andrew Probert the inboard grills are purple / violet. I used violet and depending on viewing angle and light conditions it gives you exactly what you described: sometimes black, sometimes dark blue, or violet/ purple. 

Violet look and comparison to studio model (pre Aztec)

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/nacelleComparison_zpse8711a0e.jpg

Appearing bluish
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/unLitTour10_zps41c24711.jpg

Appearing blackish
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/BaseFinalVersion2_zps2b1b8e25.jpg


The outboard grills are, again according to Andrew Probert, brushed aluminum. I used aluminum as a base and gave it a heavy anthracite wash. This makes the outboard nacelle grill appear metallic dark grey on some angles, silverish in others and black all else. As can be seen in the above “appearing blackish” picture. 

Metallic dark grey outboard and bluish inboard:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/starboardOutTotal_zpsc89c0c04.jpg 

They played a lot with color illusions depending on viewing angle. 
One of the reasons why it is so hard to get that “correct” look.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

It looks to me like all surfaces of your inboard grills are painted (either purple or black) - if so, where does the light come through?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

colhero said:


> And for the Flux Chillers I tested using a paper tube between the 2 LEDs - not bad!


Good solution! Low-tech is good. :thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thorston,

Looks like you nailed the Nacelles! Great job on the colors and lighting. I remembered you mentioning the Probert statement a few years back. I have more testing to do on these babies before construction on the real ones. 

Actually, can I pick your brain as to how you modified the forward Flux Grilles (copper parts)? Once the old ones are drilled out, there are large spaces that need to be repaired before the new grilles go on. I tested a few tricks but still not satisfied. Im thinking now that I will have cut a nice, even hole then cut a pc of flat styrene to fit in that space, then fill/sand till no trace remains.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Thorston,
> 
> Looks like you nailed the Nacelles! Great job on the colors and lighting. I remembered you mentioning the Probert statement a few years back. I have more testing to do on these babies before construction on the real ones.
> 
> Actually, can I pick your brain as to how you modified the forward Flux Grilles (copper parts)? Once the old ones are drilled out, there are large spaces that need to be repaired before the new grilles go on. I tested a few tricks but still not satisfied. Im thinking now that I will have cut a nice, even hole then cut a pc of flat styrene to fit in that space, then fill/sand till no trace remains.


Thanks. Andrew Probert especially pointed out the outboard nacelle grills as, at that time, about EVERYONE was painting them black when in fact they were brushed aluminum in color. Bugged the hell out of him. 

Flux Grills: I had the same issue with the Flux Grill replacements. The first one was really bad, as I had cut according to instructions and there was a hole at the lower front and at the top and bottom rear. For the remaining three I drilled holes to break out the inner section of the kit flux grill so that kind of a wall at the front remained. I then used a dremel to grind that down. Lots of sanding and scribing away with a hobby knife later I had an even enough surface to place the replacement Flux grill. 

To avoid holes (mostly at the lower rear) I glued a styrene plate cut from sheet styrene and placed it at the inside to back it up and filled the troublesome areas when necessary with putty, again sanding to make it smooth. It’s not perfect but the new Flux grills cover everything good enough to not notice. 

I wish PL had done the Flux grills on the 1/350 Refit the same as they have done on the 1/1000 where the Flux Grill is a separate piece.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Started construction on the nacelles -

It seems that the starboard nacelle is molded so that the 2 halves do not fit perfectly - The half with the male mounting pins fits lower than the other. So, first step (after trimming any flash) is to get the 2 halves to fit evenly, otherwise inviting MUCH unnecessary putty and sanding on the seams. What I did to fix this was to first remove the 4 thin gluing tabs along the inside top edge of one nacelle half, then trim the top edges of the mounting pins and slightly bore the mounting pin holes so that the top of the opening is higher than stock. These mods allow the male pin half to sit higher and evenly with the other half. Much easier and cleaner than putty/sand/repeat.

For the front Flux Grilles- I cut the old ones out, cleaned up the holes and made sure the remaining surface was flush. Then I filled the hole with sheet styrene, using a few dabs of caulk to hold them in place while the glue dried. After final assembly and painting the grilles will be added, but after I cover that area with blue-gray decal paper (which will avoid having to putty/sand the spliced-in styrene).


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Good fix! Will remember that one for a possible second Refit build.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Still working on the nacelles - finally finished the Flux Chillers - not completely happy with the results. Masking the inner grooves in order to paint the raised rows was a PITA - I used pin-stripe tape and getting them lined up perfectly straight took some work - then when I pulled them off the paint did not break cleanly at the tape lines so I had to do some manual touch ups. Then I wiped-on some iridescent red over the raised rows. So the chillers look deep blue/black from some angles and then look purple at others.



















For lighting the Chillers I settled on using a colored paper tube between the 2 bulbs on each side. Simple and fairly effective:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great, though a bit too dark no?. 
Getting the groves sharp and clean indeed is a pia! 
I too had to rework them for quite some time until I was happy with them. 

BTW: when you say you used a "bulb" do you mean a blulb or LED? Since a blub 
generates heat -> heat + paper = not such a good idea. Just asking.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

"a bit too dark?" - yeh I will lighten them up a bit.

"bulb?" - I meant LED, but they are so big... so no problemo.

The paper tube thingy works surprisingly well in diffusing the light.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

colhero said:


> The paper tube thingy works surprisingly well in diffusing the light.


A trick I will remember for the future. I wish I had thought of that when I did mine. I used a series of acrylic rods which, while it worked okay, doesn't look as good as your paper tube idea.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Fozzie said:


> A trick I will remember for the future. I wish I had thought of that when I did mine. I used a series of acrylic rods which, while it worked okay, doesn't look as good as your paper tube idea.


The acrylic rod idea was a good one too - but I was too lazy to go find them and was determined to keep it as simple as possible. Funny to think that many of man's inventions were born from laziness...


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Some recent shots - color test for the nacelles: flux grilles and chillers


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

REALY nice! It's good to see the A for a change..You definitely have that studio model look


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

I'm dying to see the finished product!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

It's turning out beautifully.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

She's turining in to a real beauty!


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

Magnificent!!


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Looking good! Really liking the chillers.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Not much of an update - slow going with the nacelles. Heres a couple pics of the final color test.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Nice detailing!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks really good. Though I think you forgott something on that nacelle .. like .. the other half of it  Kidding. Keep going, you are almost there.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks again for the compliments gents! A few more pics of final nacelle color test (handpainted)


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

She is “glorious”! 

So nice to see you too spotted that “band” that goes around the nacelle fine. 
Not a lot of people know or notice this.


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## cryonicjason (Apr 21, 2014)

That's one fine ship mate.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks for the appreciation gents!! :thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Slooowwwwww going on the nacelles..... They have become a part-time job in the last few months. They are my least exciting parts of the ship and more difficult to finish than I expected. I finally assembled them and applied first coats of paint. I was hoping to minimize the amount of paint I would have to use but those top and bottom center seams are more of a challenge than I wanted them to be. Been working this build an average of 10 hours a week for 2 years now. So tempted to cut corners and just get her done! Modelling monotony - I'm sure you've all been there... Just gotta stay focused on the end result.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

colhero said:


> Slooowwwwww going on the nacelles..... They have become a part-time job in the last few months. They are my least exciting parts of the ship and more difficult to finish than I expected. I finally assembled them and applied first coats of paint. I was hoping to minimize the amount of paint I would have to use but those top and bottom center seams are more of a challenge than I wanted them to be. Been working this build an average of 10 hours a week for 2 years now. So tempted to cut corners and just get her done! Modelling monotony - I'm sure you've all been there... Just gotta stay focused on the end result.


Now that's dedication! It shows, though. 

I've been working on the secondary hull for almost a year now. Finally excited again about working on the model as I can move to other areas. I've got the aztec on the nacelles to do next, after a little saucer work detour, and I'm sure it will drive me nuts!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Hehe .. if you want to do her right with all the Aztec glory I thinkt it can't be done under 12 - 18 month. And yes the monotony can drive you insane and you just want to finish her at some point and its hard to not do the short cuts since you see them more often the longer you are building. 

Hang in thre friend, your almost there.
That counts for the both of you.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Nacelle update - the 2 last week's work includes:

1. Front vents - brush-painted without any masking - notice the light blue-gray on the inside edges of the spines - I painted these before assembling the nacelle halves and masked them before painting the nacelles.











2. base color - I used a bluer white mix over a base of flat white - you can see the difference in the photo below. This is the same base I used on the entire ship because all the flat whites I have tried look too bright and too yellow/red. 











3. Aztecs - 10 hours work on one side of the starboard nacelle so far - 3 more sides to go - not exact, but I did a general representation of the patterns including the most prominent patterns. The patterns on the Studio model are different on each side of each nacelle so getting them exact is for those with more patience than myself. Also, what you see now will be dulled down about 75% for the finished look, since the A version aztecs are much more subdued than the Refit.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Those nacelles are a pain in the ass .. arent they? 
I was SO happy when I had finalyfinished them. 


As for some feedback: are you sure about the pattern in front of the bussard? 
As far as I can tell they are the same on each side on both nacelles. I looked at
that pattern for quite some time before I started painting. 

The basic shape on yours and mine is roughly the same but the details differ. 
Here is my original research combined with the final paint job on the nacelle:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/AzzecPuzzle_zps0c9b033a.jpg
(use the magnifying glass bottom right 2x to get to full sized picture)

Explanation on what you see: 

- You can make out 3 distinct areas that have that yellowish brown grey color which it typical for the complementary of the interference blue. Two bars near the bussards, one small square at the bottom front. Those are blue. 

- The rest roughly has an E shape starting at the blue grey forward leading edge in faint blur grey color which is indicative of the complementary interference gold. The E middle bar extends all the way to the bussrad while the lower one stops about half way / one third in. The top one is intercut with blues that yellowish brown grey. 

- At the top front you can make out a strip of the hulls base color, indicating the gold does not reach all the way up. 


I color coded the forward Aztec according to those finding as you can see on the inset picture. The middle picture shows the masking for the gold part of the forward nacelle Aztec. The bottom picture the final paintjob. 

Shot of the nacelle showing the complementary, its no the best but you can make out the same colors as on the reference. 
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/PortNacelleAztec1_zps8e6d2c02.jpg


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thorston,

Yes your pattern is correct - for at least one side - see pic below showing another side. And again, I'm just seeking a general representation since for the A version the aztecs are so much more subtle than the Refit that the differences wont matter much.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

O.O 

Ahh .. now that is new. 
I used the second and the B&W pictures as reference. The second shows the same pattern you can see on both nacelles in some of the B&W pictures, thats why I figuered it was the same pattern on both nacelles.

Good find. Thanks. Learning something new about this ship all the time.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Progress! - Finally have that feeling that the end is in sight - dulled down the aztecs by wiping on a thin mix of clear matte and the base white. Overall finish is a little glossier than the other sections of the ship, as with the studio model. The A version was dulled down from the Refit, but not that much on the nacelles. Still plenty of work till finished, then still have to repeat the entire process on the Port nacelle. The blue looks a little greenish due to the lighting and camera.


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

You are an artist, can't wait to see it finished!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Finally finished one nacelle - I finished the Starboard nacelle first in order to use it as a final test of my process and colors. Fairly happy with it! 

The blue is the same blue as used on most of the rest of the ship. The inner flux chiller grille is purple/blue/gray with irridescent red wiped over. The outer grill is an anthracite kind of gray with satin to give that kind of aluminum-ish look, though it is only obvious in certain lighting and angles. The aztecs were nicely toned down by wiping a thin mix of matte clear and my white base color, leaving a satin overall finish. The flux grilles are painted with a darkened brick red color, not copper. All the little red marks were painted on by hand, including the ring around the nav light, since it was easier than using the decals.

I used decal paper to cover the obvious space where the top front grill meets the nacelle halves, then painted them light blue-gray to match the inside edges of the front vents. I used a permanent black marker to darken the back edges of the cowl housing the front flux grills (the raised structures just in front of the long flux chiller grills) to give a simulated "hollow" look like they are on the studio model.



















http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee230/ColHero/1701-A 2013/2014-07-04_19-34-28_736.jpg


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Nothing beats a great refit build for enjoyable modeler viewing!:thumbsup:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Looking good!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks superb! 

I was curious if you would do the "hollowed out" detail. I think you and I are the only ones who did that. At least I never saw it on other builds. 

On a side note: that amplification crystal trench? Its ending next to the crystal? It has that hollow look too ... 

Reference:
http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/KG_MD_1701A_STUDIO_MODEL-019.jpg

My attempt in copying the look of it. 

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l10/Garbaron/PL Refit/PortNacelleAztec3_zps9a2c8079.jpg

The more you work on that kind of detail, the more you realize and see how "wrong" the PL Refits nacelles truyl are don't you? 
There is so much wrong with them, to correct it all you would have to buil entierly new nacelles from scratch.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

"I was curious if you would do the "hollowed out" detail. I think you and I are the only ones who did that. At least I never saw it on other builds."

Yeh, another one of those fine details that adds to the authenticity and scale - I havent seen this on any other builds either - and you did a nice job cutting yours - thats some steady hand work there sir! The Deboer is molded with the hollows...

"On a side note: that amplification crystal trench? Its ending next to the crystal? It has that hollow look too ..."

I used the black pen on those too!

"The more you work on that kind of detail, the more you realize and see how "wrong" the PL Refits nacelles truyl are don't you?"

Agreed - there are many details on this kit I would like to see changed - and they could have simplified the construction quite a bit - but its still the most accurate kit out there. 

Man, I have building this thing for so long I think I will have separation anxiety after its done - like post-pardum depression - this has got to be one of the most difficult kits to build, lite and paint correctly other than a tall ship with all the rigging... I thought maybe I would build a few more to sell - but no way after this - unless someone is willing to spend 15k...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

colhero said:


> I thought maybe I would build a few more to sell - but no way after this - unless someone is willing to spend 15k...


LOL, I know how you feel...:wave:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

colhero said:


> Man, I have building this thing for so long I think I will have separation anxiety after its done - like post-pardum depression - this has got to be one of the most difficult kits to build, lite and paint correctly other than a tall ship with all the rigging... I thought maybe I would build a few more to sell - but no way after this - unless someone is willing to spend 15k...


:hat:

Same here. I had thought to build a second Ent-A variant, A because I have a TON of refernces for her and could get the strongback to 100% like you did. But after finishing the TMP Version, looking back what it took and how long I had been working on her, I dont see me building a second any time soon. Its just sooo much work to correct the more obvious flaws and get the paintjob done and all what it takes to get that Refit / Ent-A look ... you know, 15K is a cheap estimate if you ask me.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Built a stand for the ol gal, using wood and acrylic;


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great. Simple, nice and clean, what more can you ask for? 

In the picture she look finsihed, I know you are still working on the other nacell, but the front view wont change from the above and let me say: you did outstanding work on her!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Yes, it's really beautiful. Exquisite.:thumbsup:


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Who do I need to talk to for a seat on the bridge for the maiden voyage???


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanks Gents - your appreciation is appreciated!

Today I made a thingamajig to cover the wire harness socket thingy (upper back corner of pedestal) - Just slides off for access to the fastener.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

My GOSH that detail is wonderful.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Nice job on the arboretum windows!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

And everything else.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Man that is really awesome, well done!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

SHE'S DONE!! :hat:

Finally, after 2 long years....

Here's a few shots - these were just taken with my phone - I will be creating an entire new album over the next month, but these few shots give a good overall idea of what she looks like. :thumbsup:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Lovely! You should be proud!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

CONGRATULATIONS!! This is an awesome piece of work! Just gorgeous!!:thumbsup:


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Congratulations on finishing her and she is lovely! 
Well from what I can tell of those pictures


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Amazing work and congratulations! This is my holy grail of kits that I hope to tackle sometime in my lifetime but you have set the bar really high :thumbsup:


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Absolutely beautiful! One of my favourite builds!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

A jewel shining in the dark...

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

A couple quick beauty shots - not the best quality photos but still pretty cool...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Hey, you made my drop my jaw!:freak:


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Words typed on a forum cannot do justice to the beautiful artwork you've created! Amazing job, I'm stunned :thumbsup:


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

My man, you need to take some better photos so we can really behold this beauty.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

PixelMagic said:


> My man, you need to take some better photos so we can really behold this beauty.


Agreed - I dont currently have a camera that is able to do her justice. But since Im not gonna buy a new camera I will take a few hundred photos with what I have and sort out the lucky shots...

Thanks for the compliments gents!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Couple more shots from the new album Im working on;


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## Guns Akimbo (Nov 4, 2013)

I swear that looks like the actual filming model!


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## WOI (Jun 28, 2012)

I couldn't agree more.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Woooooow that's beautiful.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Lighting shot -


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Beauty shot-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

OH yeah!!!


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