# Craftsman/PoulanPro blower ... odd problem



## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

Hi all, first post, thanks in advance for anyone that can help give me an idea what to do next with this blower.

I've tried everything to get this,*literally like new*, Poulan made Craftsman blower started. It's just out of warranty, but looks like I bought it last week.

It began with a dry corn husk being sucked into the vac that wound up around the impeller and bogged out the motor.

It was too tight to get the unit restarted, so I took it apart, removed the husk, reassembled and pulled the start cord. It started, ran for about 5secs and I've been unable to get it started since.

*Since then I've done the following:*

*Checked spark with gap tester*: GOOD
*Checked plug:* though in descent condition, replaced with new
*Visually inspected cylinder and piston:* Ring was stuck slightly on exhaust port side = Replaced with new piston, connecting rod and ring.
*Check condition of cylinder:* No visual scoring worth mention. Nothing that can be felt.
*Checked compression: *3pulls/100psi (enough to start and run)
*Checked carburetor:* siphons gas, lines all flexible and sealed. Diaphragm soft and flexible. Jets all looked clean. Shot carb cleaner through out anyway and soaked orifices to make sure all was clean.
*Completely dismantled unit and checked flywheel for timing and key damage:* good, no damage. Timing key on flywheel is cast in. Looks like new.
*Removed flywheel and checked bearing seals:* Like new, no leak evident or shaft wobble.
*Checked kill switch operation:* good. Continuity when switch depressed only.
*Check fuel and fuel filter:* good. Drained all fuel and replaced with new mix.
*Check for any seal leaks piston-crank case or other:* Good ... none evident whatsoever. Main crank cover seal, like new.
*Check exhaust for clogging:* good. Screen clean enough to read through.
*Check fuel delivery:* Good. After a few pulls, pull plug, electrode slightly damp, but not fouled. 

I'm at a loss here. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Normally I'd have had this thing running in minutes, but I can't find anything wrong with it except the darn thing won't start! I even tried a bit of starting fluid and can't get even a hiccup out of it.

What do they do? Make these things with a secret failure in them so you'd have to spend more money? I've got 20year old garden machines that run better. Heck ... they still run!

Thanks for any help

Pete 

Going nuts trying to figure this one out ... :freak:


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## justin3 (Apr 10, 2007)

100psi sounds low to me for one of those, normally they push about 120-145psi, I just checked one in my shop that runs and it had about 135psi. Are you sure you tightened the cylinder head bolts and installed a new gasket?


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Sounds like you've gone through everything. 100 psi is good, needs 90+ to start and run. Since it has spark, the flywheel is good and it won't start with gas put directly into the cylinder that only leaves a couple of places to look.

First would be an air leak. As stated above, this most likely happens on the cylinder gasket. You didn't say the model but if it uses an o-ring gasket make sure it is in place and not ripped. If paper, change it.

If you can't find a problem then it is possible that the crank got tweaked when the corn cob got caught which would throw the timing off.... that doesn't happen often, maybe seen 2 or 3 in 8 years.

Other things are a bad ign. module or spark plug. Could look like a good spark but may not be good enough or off timing.

Assuming that you actually put everything back together properly if I was to bet I would guess it is an air leak somewhere.


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## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

justin3 said:


> 100psi sounds low to me for one of those, normally they push about 120-145psi, I just checked one in my shop that runs and it had about 135psi. Are you sure you tightened the cylinder head bolts and installed a new gasket?


Yep, they're good and tight. Made sure gasket wasn't out of place either.

I figured it was a little low, but should still start.


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## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

hankster said:


> Sounds like you've gone through everything. 100 psi is good, needs 90+ to start and run. Since it has spark, the flywheel is good and it won't start with gas put directly into the cylinder that only leaves a couple of places to look.
> 
> First would be an air leak. As stated above, this most likely happens on the cylinder gasket. You didn't say the model but if it uses an o-ring gasket make sure it is in place and not ripped. If paper, change it.
> 
> ...


The gasket is a formed one, made of rubber that sits in a channel. Not damaged at all that I can tell (Though not new.) 

I thought the spark seemed a tiny bit weak, but I used one of these ignition testers to check for proper spark/ign energy. My understanding was, if it can jump this gap, the ignition is good.









I thought I might find the crank tweaked, when I disassembled it, but it's very sturdy SS in that section, from counter balance, through the seal, to to where the flywheel mounts and then tapers from there. I'd also assume if it were to tweak from the impeller being bound, it would do so at the narrower section of the shaft which would still leave actual timing, in tact. It all looks like new and there's no wobble or other condition that would indicate any tweaking.

I can't check precise TDC, but it looks to be on the money, snapping to the magnets at the same time it reaches TDC.

I thought I might see the shaft seal damaged, but it looks like new as well. Fit was very tight but turns smoothly. Tight to the point that even with snap ring removed, I'd have had to work to remove the shaft, so I left it alone.

When the corn husk, bogged it down and shut it down, it was a somewhat slow process. And I even smelled a little burn at the time.

I'm considering plugging the exhaust port and intake and putting pressure to the motor through the plug hole and see if I can get any leaks.


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## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

Just Pete said:


> I'm considering plugging the exhaust port and intake and putting pressure to the motor through the plug hole and see if I can get any leaks.


So ... I did just this. Removed the carburetor and muffler. With a couple pieces of thin rubber and some backing plates, I clamped over the intake and exhaust port, removed the spark plug and put pressure to the cylinder with the piston down. Held 40psi with no leak. 

So ... I have a spark, I have fuel, I have compression, I have no leaks ... and I have a big fricken headache. :freak:

What the heck is going on here???

Is it possible 100psi simply isn't sufficient for these cantankerous hunk of junk Poulan motors? 

I even tried before this, a little 30w in the cylinder to boost compression. Still wouldn't start.


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## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

OK ... I tried another test and instead of pressurizing, I vacuum tested the cylinder/crankcase ... I couldn't get the vacuum up to -20 psi and it diminished within 3-5seconds. 

Is that enough to prevent starting??? 

I'm thinking not ... but I'm going to pick up a gasket kit tomorrow and see. 

Any ideas???


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

100 psi compression is more then enough.


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## TonyMT (Jul 14, 2010)

*Poulan pro gas blower starter rope replaced*

Hi I am Tony Owasso,OK I have a poulan gas blower the starter rope broke I replaced it and tried it worked great put everything back together and pulled the rope and it willl not recoil what did I do wrong?


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## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

Well ... I got sick of trying to figure this hunk of junk out, so I broke down and bought a Stihl SH86 C-E which I have to say is fantastic.

















Incredibly smooth running and quiet.

I still want to fix this Craftsman/Poulan enigma ... but at least now I have a working blower again. Amazing how much you miss one when you don't have it. 

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I notice one thing that may be the issue. When the magnets on the flywheel are centered, (where they rest when grabbing the ignition coil) the crank is JUST before TDC. and by just before I mean, instead of at 12:00 the crank is at about 11:58. I don't know if that's where it should be or not... Because the timing is not adjustable, I obviously cannot change it. I'd be amazed though if the crank tweaked.

Any thoughts?


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## Just Pete (Jul 9, 2010)

TonyMT said:


> Hi I am Tony Owasso,OK I have a poulan gas blower the starter rope broke I replaced it and tried it worked great put everything back together and pulled the rope and it willl not recoil what did I do wrong?


What do you mean by it won't recoil? The rope won't return?


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

TonyMT said:


> Hi I am Tony Owasso,OK I have a poulan gas blower the starter rope broke I replaced it and tried it worked great put everything back together and pulled the rope and it willl not recoil what did I do wrong?


Sounds like you forgot to windup the spring.
btw, i live 5 mi ne of you


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## nnyparts.com (Dec 28, 2009)

I was going to add...sometimes we just have to say uncle when it comes to these machines. I have had customers come in with old weed-eaters telling me that they wanted it fixed. Here is what I tell them....we can fix it, but you kind of have to weight out the costs verses new. We charge 40.00 hr for labor. It takes an hour to basically rebuild the carb with a kit and another hour to go through the rest of the machine. So now you have $80.00 plus parts into that old weed-eater when you could have gone and bought a new one at Wally World for around 100.00 that comes with a basic warranty.


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