# My Phaser 2 ultimate prop grail project. [now finished for real!]



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Like Shorty said, "He no nuts; he _crazy_!"
I was SO happy with my P1 that I just fell victim to impulse. Yes, I have a Wand P2 & I love it, but it's just wrong in some places that bug me. It's very cool that it works and sounds amazing, but as a pure replica it's still somewhat lacking. It's just too perfect-looking. No real screen used prop looks that perfectly clean. It's like an idealized version. Plus the P1 is too dark, the half-moon has a lit display, and the crispy has obvious holes in it for the speaker.
Just today I saw a Diamond Select phaser conversion with metal parts completed on a private site I'm linked to (man did this dude WORK it), but he didn't extend the P1's rear end or bend the P1 metal side rails to fit the curve, nor did he taper the rear from a top view or thin down the rail just under the P1 on the body of the P2. So, basically, it's still got the toy imperfections in its lines. I didn't have the heart to point this all out.
Anyway, I dropped the hammer on the metal parts from my man Susannetrek on eBay, so I am committed. I just took the DS body that donated the P1 I just converted apart to learn how it all works. A hidden screw here, a pop-out piece there, it gave up its life in the name of discovery.
I am specifically aiming for the look of the phaser from The Cloud Minders. This image has been in my brain for decades. I should receive the parts in less than a week. I'll be doing prep work before that though, and post it here. My dentist bill will just have to wait a week or so!
Stay tuned boppers, stay tuned...😏


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Also, I'll be making this as one part. The P1 will not be removable. I have one on its own already. And this will save a LOT of work on the underside & nose of it. And I won't be installing a more accurate sight since it's not used when in the P2 (man that was so much relentlessly irritating work).


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

"And I won't be installing a more accurate sight since it's not used when in the P2 (man that was so much relentlessly irritating work)."

Spock uses it in "The Man Trap"










You can see him operate the thumbwheel to open the sight on the B&W.

But I think that the only time.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

More research shows that on the DS phaser:
The rear metal fins have to be recessed deeper into the body of the phaser (closer to the P1 release control).
Many edges of the body need to be very slightly softened, especially near the emitter.
The lock plate in front needs like a 2 degree slant more down towards the front.
The cradle raised bits need to be radically reduced.*

*Note: these are things the Wand phaser got more or less correct.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Well this was a workout. Getting the teardrop cradle lines right was an interesting challenge. I just started on the P1, but








I need a break now...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I got the P1 slimmed a bit, and I did a gray paint test on the extra piece I had. Looks okay, I think...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

More on the colour test- here's a comparison of the gray I'll be using (on my test part) to the gray on my Wand phaser. The Wand colour is too dark, IMO. I like my chosen colour better!
Thoughts?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I'm building up the back of the P1 by 2mm with epoxy putty- wait! Whoah. Deja vu... didn't I _just_ do this?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I think your lighter grey looks better than the Wand’s grey.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Got home & sanded the P1, sanded the screw holes filled in on the P2, and primed the P1. 
Tomorrow I sand the part where the P1's rear end fits into the body & paint the P1. The metal parts are due tomorrow, but this won't be quick...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

A good news/bad news day.
*The bad news:* I painted the P1 a good colour, but the paint was a little thick so it left brush strokes. Gotta sand it after it cures & do it over this time with a touch of paint thinner so it self levels better.
The metal parts did not arrive today. Tracking shows nothing after it hit Albany. _irritation_
*The good news:* I discovered I had an even better gray spray paint on hand for the body- test looks great (less glossy but same darkness).
The P1 fits the body nice & snug, and I didn't even have to go all the way through the back wall to do it!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Frack. No brushstrokes this time, but I hurried the mix & it was darker than I thought. One last time tomorrow after work.
Metal parts arriving Tuesday according to tracking.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Man I do enjoy your rework projects Chris. Takes some real moxie to rip a grail item apart like this and rebuild it into something better, stronger, faster… oh wait… that’s the “Six Million Dollar Man”.
Lord knows it’s not something I’d ever do …. oh wait….
never mind.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Got the parts today, and now the REAL work starts! Had to widen the hole for the side turn knob, deepen the wells for the rear fins. and prepare the nozzle to fit into the metal emitter. Also the metal parts need some fine sanding on some edges.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Successfully took a ten turn apart in prep for the excellent metal top, widened the front 'window' & I'll even be able to use the existing clear plastic insert anyway! Next I have to construct a front plate for above the emitter. This is endlessly challenging!


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Most of the original props were hand-painted, often with very visible brush strokes. That never seemed to be a detriment, as the slightly irregular surface would catch the light in a particular way that gave the phasers a special "sheen" when filmed.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trek Ace said:


> Most of the original props were hand-painted, often with very visible brush strokes. That never seemed to be a detriment, as the slightly irregular surface would catch the light in a particular way that gave the phasers a special "sheen" when filmed.


Thanks, yeah, I'm gonna cut myself some slack because of that. Even if imperfect, this phaser will turn out perfectly imperfect, LOL.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks, yeah, I'm gonna cut myself some slack because of that. Even if imperfect, this phaser will turn out perfectly imperfect, LOL.


Nice! I get a royalty every time someone uses that phrase!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

All right, I was gonna use these 1.5mm rods (& sand down the backsides) for the new mid-striping, but they just look too thick. Funny that they used this size on the Wand phaser- now I can't un-see how thick they look on it. 
I just ordered 1mm half rounds on eBay. Be here by May 2nd. So now I know I won't be finished until _after_ May 2nd.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

My day off- lots of little things done. I slanted the hole for the trigger so it points out at the correct angle, installed pins for the side rails, bent the side rails to the proper shape (they're made for the incorrect shape of the toy, not my corrected shape), and I discovered wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper to make the P1's paint job more even, printed the numbers & glued them to a base, then glued the half moon on top of it. Then I sanded off the red part of the bezel & glued on a little faux ruby (it sparkles better).
Plus tons of little minor sanding touches.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Last pic today, plasticine clay laid in to counterbalance the weight of the metal nozzle.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> All right, I was gonna use these 1.5mm rods (& sand down the backsides) for the new mid-striping, but they just look too thick. Funny that they used this size on the Wand phaser- now I can't un-see how thick they look on it.
> I just ordered 1mm half rounds on eBay. Be here by May 2nd. So now I know I won't be finished until _after_ May 2nd.
> View attachment 329520


Doing a great job on these reworks Chris, you're going farther than any other DS rebuild I've seen. With regards to the 3 line ribs on the P2 side, that was the biggest flaw on the Wand phaser, they are too fat and too flat. I used 3/64in styrene rods on my scratch build and they look to be perfectly sized. Use full round rods, half rounds are too flat.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

robn1 said:


> Doing a great job on these reworks Chris, you're going farther than any other DS rebuild I've seen. With regards to the 3 line ribs on the P2 side, that was the biggest flaw on the Wand phaser, they are too fat and too flat. I used 3/64in styrene rods on my scratch build and they look to be perfectly sized. Use full round rods, half rounds are too flat.


Thanks a lot man! That really helps!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

OMG it's coming to the end soon. I assembled the body! I made it so the nozzle just plugs in, so I won't have to worry on masking it for the paint job. I went to a local hobby store, and while they didn't have 3/64 styrene rods, they _did_ have 3/64 brass rods (washed them, still have to gently sand 'em). Applying them will be the very last thing before the paint job & final plug-ins. It's still days away from the finish line, but it kinda shocks me that I've gotten this much done in ten days mostly after work using stone knives & bear skins... feels like a lot longer than that.😶


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

Chrisisall said:


> All right, I was gonna use these 1.5mm rods (& sand down the backsides) for the new mid-striping, but they just look too thick. Funny that they used this size on the Wand phaser- now I can't un-see how thick they look on it.
> I just ordered 1mm half rounds on eBay. Be here by May 2nd. So now I know I won't be finished until _after_ May 2nd.
> View attachment 329520


Might try sanding them a bit on the bottom and maybe a little where they would butt up against each other. Keep it subtle and they'll probably work fine.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

StarCruiser said:


> Might try sanding them a bit on the bottom and maybe a little where they would butt up against each other. Keep it subtle and they'll probably work fine.


Unlike the Cylons I actually _have_ a plan...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I bought the brass rods in case my 3 line rib plan doesn't work. I intend to try using the half rounds (coming later today) backed with a layer of .5 mm sheet to raise them to 1 mm off the surface. And get this- simple styrene glue works on this DS plastic (for small things, not large parts)!
Also I just finished assembly of the P1.
*UPDATE* Yes, my evil plan WOULD have worked except that I was shipped half rounds of ABS not styrene! (I felt like Spock in Spectre Of The Gun. It must work. But the glue won't hold. A radical alteration in my original purchase must be in order. Yep. ABS...) I ordered actual styrene half rounds from Evergreen directly this time. One day shipping. If I'm fortunate I'll be back in business by Monday.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Many liquid cements will bond ABS to styrene very strongly. Try Tamiya Thin or Extra Thin, or perhaps Plastuct.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trek Ace said:


> Many liquid cements will bond ABS to styrene very strongly. Try Tamiya Thin or Extra Thin, or perhaps Plastuct.


Thanks sincerely Ace, but the wheels of styrene creation are already in motion.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just a comparison of the first P1 I made, and the P1 that will be glued into this P2 I'm working on...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

After what seems like an eternity, my half rounds should be arriving tomorrow, then I paint Thursday & Friday.
In the mean time- last gray body paint test input if you will?
On the left is the colour I have pretty much settled on. Above to the right is my Wand phaser, below that is the DS phaser unpainted. IMHO, the Wand phaser is too dark, and the DS phaser is too light. Have I hit a mid ground like I think I have?


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

I have not done anywhere near the research that you and others have done but I think an even lighter grey than the unpainted DS is in order. I remember their phasers being a much brighter grey color but then I have always set my TVs to a higher contrast level than the factory settings.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> I have not done anywhere near the research that you and others have done but I think an even lighter grey than the unpainted DS is in order. I remember their phasers being a much brighter grey color but then I have always set my TVs to a higher contrast level than the factory settings.


This makes me feel much more confident about my colour choice. Thanks man! 😸


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Got the half rounds & glued them to the .5mm thick strips. While waiting for them to set, I sanded the angles on the side turn with an emery stick & softened all the edges of it with 2000 grit sandpaper.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Got the side ribs glued on. It got a little messy because I had to re-position them, but that just means a little clean up tomorrow before painting. Tomorrow the body, Friday the handle. Then it's just plug N' play!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The gray is on (Looks a little darker in person). Dark bronze on the handle in about 24 hrs!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Today I got home from work & examined it. A couple of little bits to sand with 2000 grit- nothing major, just stuff that would bug _me_. Tomorrow I give it one more quick, light coat. Then it's wait time again.
This paint dries to a nice hard & durable finish if given the time. I intend to. So sadly (for impatient me) I won't be completing it this weekend. Maybe Monday or Tuesday. Have a great weekend, y'all!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

In the meantime, I purchased a polishing kit for my dremel. Wanna make this metal emitter *shine*!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Gave it one more coat of gray, and waited a bit. Got the dark bronze on the handle. Some sputter from the rattle can, but nothing noticeable once it began to dry. 
Now there really is nothing more I can do on it until Monday but polish the emitter, fins & side-turn.
Monday I'll have to do a little wet sanding & light polishing, then I can attempt assembly barring setbacks.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Good choice on the color selection. The brighter tones on the right are really close to the brighter greys I remember from the aired TV episodes! 🤙


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Just came across this thread--BEAUTIFUL, GORGEOUS WORK!!!! 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍

Thanks for posting your process pics. I really like all the choices you made except for one that makes me a little nervous. If I'm not mistaken, Plasticene is not the most stable of modeling clays and can ooze oil after a while. I've worked with it a lot in the past (sculpting) and can attest to the oil in it though I've never tested it in such an application as yours. Then again, you don't want to be leaving a plastic model kit in a hot car, anyway. In my _very _humble opinion, two-part epoxy putty might be a better choice for future projects.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

StarshipClass said:


> Just came across this thread--BEAUTIFUL, GORGEOUS WORK!!!! 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
> 
> Thanks for posting your process pics. I really like all the choices you made except for one that makes me a little nervous. If I'm not mistaken, Plasticene is not the most stable of modeling clays and can ooze oil after a while. I've worked with it a lot in the past (sculpting) and can attest to the oil in it though I've never tested it in such an application as yours. Then again, you don't want to be leaving a plastic model kit in a hot car, anyway. In my _very _humble opinion, two-part epoxy putty might be a better choice for future projects.


Thanks a lot ! About the clay- I used it before in the phaser I used as practice for this one, and the plasticine was all dry & super solid. But then again I never left it in a hot car, LOL!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks a lot ! About the clay- I used it before in the phaser I used as practice for this one, and the plasticine was all dry & super solid. But then again I never left it in a hot car, LOL!


Good to hear. Should be okay, then. 👍


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Hey, this dremel polishing really works!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Wet sanding went well, buffed it by hand (tests with the dremel on the discarded body showed enamel unevenly semi-melting at even the lowest speed).
I epoxied the ring for the side turn, and the front end cap. Now more waiting for it to set. The inside of the side turn, the rear fins, the emitter & the P1 are all basically plug-ins requiring only small spots of hot glue.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, _just_ finished it. I may do some minor detailing, but this is basically it. Better photos tomorrow.


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## Chuck Eds (Jul 20, 2009)

Careful where you point that thing!!😮
Nice work, that phaser will be forever set on stunning!😄 👍👍


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Man seeing you work on this was a real blast! A true work of art! Congratulations! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 😍


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Man seeing you work on this was a real blast! A true work of art! Congratulations! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 😍


Thanks, but I have one more tiny thing to attend to. And wait until I post pictures of it next to my Wand phaser....


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

When I put the front cap on it had protective tape on the surface- I didn't realize it had to be shaped. Just now I took it off & shaped it. _Now_ it's done. I put it side by side with my Wand phaser for comparison.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

And here's something I don't understand: the Wand guys *laser scanned* a real prop; why is their P1 off? I had to check it when I compared the two. The aspirator should be wider & longer. Also, their P2 emitter is at least a full mm too low. And their heat sink/ fins stick out too far. And their trigger is angled up too much. Meh, minor quibbles- it's still amazing.


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## The_Engineer (Dec 8, 2012)

Wouldn't it come down to *which *prop they laser scan? How many 'hero' props were there and how many 'dummy' props were there. When the prop guys made these, there must be some variance between the props. One way to do a definitive item/prop would be to take the measurements from all of the props and get the average measurement and use that. Your phaser is great and the fact that it is a little different from The Wand phaser shouldn't matter.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The_Engineer said:


> Wouldn't it come down to *which *prop they laser scan? How many 'hero' props were there and how many 'dummy' props were there. When the prop guys made these, there must be some variance between the props. One way to do a definitive item/prop would be to take the measurements from all of the props and get the average measurement and use that. Your phaser is great and the fact that it is a little different from The Wand phaser shouldn't matter.


Well, they scanned Greg Jein's phaser, if memory serves. I'd expect theirs to have the same measurements. Could be they just made some extremely minor changes on purpose. No matter- they did a fine job on the end product.
In the meantime, I coated the clear emitter with Future last night. Wow does it make a difference. To say that I'm pleased with my final result would be an understatement.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Looks nice! 🤙


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

My set is now complete.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Beautiful work. A much better finish on the phaser than the original prop by far!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oh no. Suddenly I feel the need to replace the red ruby on the watch crown of the P1 with a blue one. 
Yes, of course! Red means active as a P1; blue means the P1 is in tandem with the P2!
Or am I just spit-balling? Yeah, I'm spit-balling. Whatever. It'll look cool.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Nah, it was just an idea. I'll leave it just as I finished it after all.
Now is the time to play 'stun the kitty'!
Wow, it worked!


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

That's what you get kitty, never trust a southpaw.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Captain Kitty is not worried. He is probably wearing a red shirt anyway....and has bad aiming skills.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, a guy on another site told me I needed to add the screw. He pointed out that it's visible onscreen in The Cloud Minders. So I just added it. It's not even a real screw, I couldn't find one the correct size so I made it out of a discarded plastic trigger piece.
NOW I'm done!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I've made a lot of stuff. There is always a target goal. My closest moments have been my 'ultimate' Viper, my Bandai Falcon, my from scratch Star Trek V/VI phaser... none of which actually reached 100%. 
This is the first time in my model-making life that I actually hit 100% of my target goal.
_cries like a baby Klingon- (no tears)_ 😏


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Beware! Beware!
Now that thou hast reached the mountain top… 
there’s nowhere to go but down…
for most people…
maybe not for you but…
most people.

Congratulations on a real masterpiece!

🥰🥰🥰


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

When I last showed my phaser, it was all indoor shots, so I just took it outside for some natural light ones. What a long way it came from a simple AA/DS toy...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Fantastic! 😍 😘👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Fantastic! 😍 😘👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼


You have any phasers? I'd love to see them if you do...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> You have any phasers? I'd love to see them if you do...


Nah. Never got into the hand props I’m afraid. You do great work Chris.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> Well, they scanned Greg Jein's phaser, if memory serves. I'd expect theirs to have the same measurements. Could be they just made some extremely minor changes on purpose.


The only changes I've noticed are the side ribs are too big and the handle is too thin. They scanned the GJ hero, I used measurements from the GJ on my scratch build. When I compared mine to a Wand they were nearly identical.

The metal parts you used are based on the John Long P1 kit which is notorious for being oversized and inaccurate in shape. JLong's clear sight piece is wider than the cutout in GJ's.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

robn1 said:


> The only changes I've noticed are the side ribs are too big and the handle is too thin. They scanned the GJ hero, I used measurements from the GJ on my scratch build. When I compared mine to a Wand they were nearly identical.
> 
> The metal parts you used are based on the John Long P1 kit which is notorious for being oversized and inaccurate in shape. JLong's clear sight piece is wider than the cutout in GJ's.


So, I need to do more sanding is what you're saying.
Just shoot me now.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Do you know someone with a bigger hand?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Do you know someone with a bigger hand?


That's very funny. Will you be here all week-?


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

As long as the veal doesnt run out...


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> So, I need to do more sanding is what you're saying.
> Just shoot me now.


Don't sweat it, you did a great job and it looks good.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Video, if it works...




__





Google Photos


Home for all your photos and videos, automatically organized and easy to share.



photos.google.com


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

robn1 said:


> Don't sweat it, you did a great job and it looks good.


Ahhh, but it's not done. I discovered the handle is too long when I bought an end plate for it (lucky I checked first).
More work (but it's worth it).
I built up the raised bits to meet the upper grip, sawed a little over 1/8" off the bottom, got the end plate from my usual guy Jon Paul & trimmed it (it's meant for the bottom of the endcap as is- but I sanded it to be more flush with the handle), and glued the whole thing together & on. Can't paint today as it thunderstorming. Left the screws out 'cause I want 'em brass; Ill add them in once it's painted.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

NOW it's done. Proper dimensions at last. Thanks to everyone who followed this this far...


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