# Is there a way..help please???



## GoatDriver (Jan 23, 2011)

Hey folks!!...Just joined the site ..been "lurkin" for about 6 months and have really enjoyed all the info and the site in general. With that said.....we have a problem!
My son and I have just started to learn how to work on small engines and OPE this past summer. We have always wanted to fix up an old John Deere garden tractor....well he found a JD 216 with a 16 HP Kohler K341 engine, we have torn it down to the frame and made some frame repairs, now are waiting to have the frame sand blasted for painting. We pulled the K341 motor and finally got around to getting it on the work bench. We pulled the oil pan and it looks to be in okay condition....NOW here's our problem...we are newbies at this all so this may be a simple question for some, but we don't know the answer 

On the shroud where the model and serial #'s are supposed to be there is nothing the only numbers we can find are stamped in the block _(shown in the pics below)_. This is causing us a problem with finding parts because we don't have a model # to go by. Is there any way to cross reference the block numbers to get a correct model # to get parts with.

P.S. We do know it is a 1980 model John Deere 216 tractor frame from the numbers on the tractor itself.

We would be much beholden for any help you can give us with this. :wave:


This reads K341-4









You can see that there is a "C" in the top right corner of this pic and 28F3 stamped at the bottom


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## dj722000 (Oct 29, 2008)

First thing is first. DO NOT bore this engine to the max. Take it .010 or .020 over first. If there is any problems and your at .030 over, the engine is done. Very expensive to get another block.

Second thing, look at the valves under the head. Is one smaller then the other or about the same size? Normally when ordering these parts for the K-Series, you need to have the spec number. If you pay close attention to what your buying you know what your getting.

Third, does the connecting rod have a small hole drilled in the middle of it? If it doesnt its a stock connecting rod, if it does its a oversized rod.

Go to Kohler site and get the manual for rebuilding. Download it and read it and check all your part tolerances. Pay attention to where all your little parts go and where they came from. Nothing like having to lift a 160 Lbs engine out again to tear apart.

Go on ebay and type kohler k341 and you will find what your looking for. Look around and you will find cheaper deals around 90 - 110 dollars per kit. Before you order, let the guy your buying the parts from know what your looking for as in piston, valves, connecting rod. He should be able to point you in the right direction for the right kit.

As far as the carb goes, dump the walbro if it has one and look on ebay for a kohler carb. You will be happy you did.

The "C" 28F3 in the pic is just a casting number, in your first pic, its just telling them it is a K-341 block. To an untrained eye, alot of these blocks look very similar to each other until you try to rebuild it.

Enjoy rebuilding it as they are getting very rare to come across and everybody is hording them. Engine will last a life time if properly taken care of.
I know alot of places around here are charging upwards of 800 + to rebuild these. Any more questions feel free to ask.

One last thing, when ordering your parts, tell them it is for a John Deere 216. Other tractors (Cub Cadet, Wheel Horse etc) sometimes have different cranks and oil pans and such and you may get some wrong parts. I believe on A JD 216 your should have the deep square oil pan. The kit should be a complete kit but you never know.


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## dj722000 (Oct 29, 2008)

I just went through some stuff here in my shop, I do have a K-341 with a spec number if you need the spec number to order your kit.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You can find an illustrated parts list at the John Deere website for your tractor:

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

They also have parts breakdowns for the engine, although they only list JD part numbers. Since you don't have the Kohler spec number, this may be a direction to follow to insure you obtain the correct parts for the engine used on your tractor.


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## GoatDriver (Jan 23, 2011)

Thank you !! Thank You!!! Thank You!!!! *dj722000* and* 30yearTech*

*dj722000*...the rod cap does have a hole drilled in it..._see pic below_..is this what you were talking about?










What scares me is, the tractor as a whole has been really "cobbled" and neglected...the engine has been into before as the evidence of the shabby gasket sealant work shown in the pic below and some other evidence not shown in the pic.










We have not pulled the head yet, so I can't say about the valves.

We have already downloaded the pdf K series manual from the Kohler site and from http://www.asberry.net/Kohler.htm.

The carb is in really bad shape. The bushing on the top of the throttle control shaft was completely gone, *a lot* of rust and varnish, bowl rusted out, etc., etc...:freak:










This is the carb after soaking in carb cleaner for over 30 minutes....











Again *Thank You all* for all the help and info


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## dj722000 (Oct 29, 2008)

No, the hole in the cap is the lubricating hole for the crank journal. It has to face the camshaft when you reassemble it like it is right now. Very easy to turn around. The hole im talking about is half way between the bottom cap and piston, it will be in the side of the connecting rod. Kinda hard to see it when its assembled.

Also when you get ready to pull the camshaft out, there will be a small shim sometimes two of them on the opposite side of the gear. (Or remember where they came from to put back, if not it will knock when it runs and you will have no idea why its doing it)

Lucky you, theres no balance gears. LOL

Flywheel tip. DONT hit it with anything!!!! If you crack it or break it youll be spending some moola for another one. Dont stick anything behind it as you will damage the windings on the magneto behind it. I use an impact on the flywheel with my own homemade puller to remove and it will come right off lickity split. (Watch your feet its about 10 or so pounds if you drop it.)

Lookin good as it doesnt look like it was overheated at all. :thumbsup:

The carb looks alright, a good cleaning and you can get complete rebuild kits for those, even the bushing that is worn out. Hang on to it and rebuild it.

When you remove the head, look around on top where the head mates to cylinder for marking or on the piston for marking if cylinder was ever bored over. It'll be something like .010, .020 .030. This will tell you what it has been taken to from standard.


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## GoatDriver (Jan 23, 2011)

Thank You *dj722000* !!! 

We are "pecking" along on this project and I thank you folks very much for the help and suggestion.


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