# good buy or .... ?



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

what else is wrong with this body? 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14060900834...84.m1423.l2649&autorefresh=true#ht_989wt_1185
or did everyone just miss it?


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## coach61 (Sep 6, 2004)

alpink said:


> what else is wrong with this body?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/14060900834...84.m1423.l2649&autorefresh=true#ht_989wt_1185
> or did everyone just miss it?


I think the question should be whats right.,...


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## 70ss (Aug 22, 2005)

I hope everybody jusy missed it. But 163 people did veiw it.


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## 70ss (Aug 22, 2005)

O no whats wrong? It should be a least good enough for parts for original.


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

No glass, no chrome, funny screw posts - my guess it's a speedline or something like that.


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## SCJ (Jul 15, 1999)

Without seeing the car in person one can never tell, but I think this is a repop resin body.

Look at the ground down (and smoothed out) injector pin marks and loovers in the back of the car and one in the front. There is also "dust" cast under the hood around the front screw post. Non of my Mako have this (including my brown one) nor does either of my cigar box Mako.

I'm pretty sure this is a resin cast.


------------------------
www.SlotCarJohnies.com


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

very astute observations all. thank you for pointing out what was obvious to me, but, i wanted to see who else was seeing that. someone overpaid?


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

SCJ said:


> Without seeing the car in person one can never tell, but I think this is a repop resin body.
> 
> I'm pretty sure this is a resin cast.
> 
> ...


That was my first thought when I saw it. The finish just didn't look right.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

I tend to agree with John, that you can never really tell for sure until you have the car in your hand. However, this looks to be a resin re-pop of a cigar box body. But I am just guessing. pig


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

partspig said:


> I tend to agree with John, that you can never really tell for sure until you have the car in your hand. However, this looks to be a resin re-pop of a cigar box body. But I am just guessing. pig


doesn't that just make it more "RARER"...???? :freak:
2 bad folks can't b more "Honest In Selling"...
like on HERE (compliment-intended 2 our members.."..
i'ld love a Mako, repop or w/ ever..BUT w/ all the parts & HONESTLY listed..

my 2 cents :thumbsup:

Bubba 123


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Out of hand gut check at a glance*

1. color is spot on = original
2. playwear indicative of Aurora plastic = original
3. stress on rear spoiler belly button indicates live birth = original
4. windsheild index nibs fresh and crisp = speedline
5. no bumper removal scars = speedline
6. bowed out A pillar with ghost crack, typical = original
7. nicked/diggied valences = many collisions with diecast bumpers = speedline
8. lack of silver accents or residual particles = speedline
9. lack of slot chassis tattoo on rear post = speedline

The fact that there are two separate stress marks, one of which occured at birth when it was yanked from it's umbilical chord (the sprue) tipped me off. That bowed A-pillar is SO typical of the model that coupled with the characteristic ghost mark screams styrene original to me. 

In the "well duhhh departement" we can establish a good handful of obvious Speedline indicators. Not the least of which is the death of a thousand nicks, especially around the unprotected front. There's only one way to get that look....slamming into hot wheels and matchboxes at velocity!

The overall surface play wear is typical of an 40 year old Aurora. Note the high shine of the areas not affected, then note the severe marring/dulling elsewhere; now consider the variety of damages between those two extremes. While not indicating anything directly, it reflects that she earned her wounds over time. In that the representation of damage can be easily duplicated but subtle character and hue would not transferable in the clone. 

I'm casting my ballot as "miraculous Speedline survivor" screwed to a t-jet chassis.

The glue dot just behind the passenger headlamp is a tantilizing tidbit! :devil:

edit....sorry Al, I forgot to actually answer the question....the only value would be to use it to create the t-jet version and open the moral and ethical argument, then start splitting hairs about the definition of what originality is...blah blah blah. Naturally I vote: buff her out, slam some glass in her and bang the bumpers on...let the future generations finger it out


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

aha, a heavy weight weighs in !


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

You callen' me fat?

Hahahahahaha!

Heck Al, I love playing the "guess what this is game". It's one of the best side shows on HT. No matter what....everybody has a 50/50 shot. Ordinarily I dont contradict the conventional wisdom of the board, but I love to play devil's advocate when I can.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

the wheel wells impressed me, i was at a loss to explain the area below the rear window, actually the underside of the body at the rear window louvers thing. but, i am not very familiar with those particular bodies. I know something about original willys and that is about it.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

FWIW, Legend has it that none of the orange or brown makos had fully lipped fenders. 

The diagonal goof under the louvres is common throughout. The Mako certainly didnt improve a when the mold was modified. Like the Willys nostril, the Mako's thicker areas are prone to sinking, as you can see down both sides, but more notably the passenger side.


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