# WIP – Moebius 1:24 Chariot (better late than never)



## Fernando Mureb

Hi guys!

Years after the release of this fabulous kit, here I am, about to finally build my Chariot, making an old dream comes true. I have collected a lot of reference pictures over the years, and making notes as well.

I have witnessed several fantastic builds here and learnt a lot. Now that I am beginning this model, I had to make some decisions and take a few compromises, in order to plan what to do.

Among the excellent works, I chose some to serve as guides considering two points: 1st – the threads were the most detailed, both in images as in texts; 2nd – in general lines, these modelers ideas were more in tune with mine. 

So, I based my work on those by Teslabe, Ace Airspeed, Tim Nolan, Bill Gudmundson (Dsharlock), Steve123, Kdaracal and Peter. Eh, eh, eh, yes, there should be at least one benefit in being the last to tackle this delicious challenge, having waited for so long. I hope I can honor you guys, doing a decent job.

I bought Paragrafix photo etch sets for the Chariot and the Robot. I also bought the Aztec Dummy masks for the canopy. I’m waiting for Crow’s Nest figures and luggage.

Well, those are my plans (some are quite obvious):

1.	Applying the Paragrafix photo etch sets;
2.	Making the lighting of the dashboard and the scanner (on frontal and back sides) with a combination of LEDs and FO.
3.	Making the lighting of the robot with a combination of LEDs and FO, with flashing chest neon as well as blinking lenses on the torso control panel;
4.	Lighting the head lights, frontal upper and lower spotlights and back lower spotlights;
5.	Improving the antenna and the solar plate;
6.	Making the dome free to slide (humm..., maybe - if only I had downloaded the images posted by Ductape Forever... );
7.	Improving the seats supports (the original have melted );
8.	Improving the driver’s control panel;
9.	Improving the laser rifles;
10.	Making real curtains; 
11.	Improving the overall interior look giving to it a more "real" appearance, by applying small... hum... things here and there; and,
12.	Installing Crow's Nest figures and luggage.

Please, feel free to post suggestions and comments about your own builds. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

I must begin this build making repairs on the model. My kit is from Moebius first run and it was affected by the melting problem caused by the contact between plastic parts and the treads’ rubber.

When this problem was reported a couple of years ago, my kit was with a friend in Texas, waiting for him to come to Brazil, which occurred only five month later. When I put my hands on the kit I saw that it had been affected.

Then, I isolated the rubbers parts in a plastic bag. However, I did nothing about the plastic parts that had already been affected, because I thought that, once the parts had been separated, then the chemical reaction would stop. That was what I thought, but I shouldn’t! The reaction continued slowly and plastic parts not affected at first, were struck by coming in contact with the melted parts.


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## Fernando Mureb

So, I had to perform a repair that demanded three circles of putty-sand-primer until reach the desired smoothness on the surfaces. 

One could ask (fair enough): "why did you do this job if most of the flaws will be hidden, both by the chassis and the floor's coverage"?

I've got two motives: the fear that the melting process could go on and... well, you know what?, it doesn't matter whether my friends would ever know that there were hidden imperfections in this kit - I would! So, I decided to get rid from them.


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## Fernando Mureb

Here are the parts after the repairs have being done. I already did the removal of the “screen covers” from the chassis and from the body front, in order to place the Paragrafix photoetch parts.


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## Fernando Mureb

After having washed all the parts in warm water with soap, I also prepared the antenna, solar plate, seats, wheels and several others small parts to be primed. 

A lot of cutting, scrape and sanding, mainly to remove seam lines and residues from sprue.











I remove the raised plastic girders from the back of the antenna dish, to replace them by their photoetch correspondents





I found the back of the seats a little rough, so I sanded them to smooth.


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## Fernando Mureb

All the bits were primed (Tamiya Surfacer White Primer).


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## Fernando Mureb

My rack came torto quite twisted. I will use hot water to correct the angles.


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## Fernando Mureb

The wheels and axles covers were painted Model Master 1780 - Steel and the drive sprockets, Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black. I made a weathering with 1 per 8 mixture of paint (Model Master - 2711 Anthracite Gray Metallic) and thinner.

About the wheels, they already were a theme for discussion in other threads, because of the color “white” suggested by Moebius as to be used. It seems that there were a consensus on that “white” probably was the original color of the real Chariot's wheels, but as they never seemed like that on screen ,but steel, then everyone (as far as I know) have been using this color (or silver). And so did I.

Here are the wheels painted and covered with two coats of Future wax, to avoid contact with the tires and the consequent chemical reaction we all well know. In my research I found that several modelers used different methods to protect their wheels: aluminum tape, bare metal foil, coats of clear finishing and Future wax. I went with the last one.



After weathering.


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## Fernando Mureb

See what I did with my rifles using a hobby knife, some files, a 0.8mm drill bit, 0.5mm round rods, and pieces of a 0.25 x 4.0mm strip. I painted them flat black. 











I'm gonna make a weathering with 1 per 8 mixture of paint (Model Master - 1780 Steel) and thinner.


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## Fernando Mureb

The body after the repairs and have being primed.


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## Xenodyssey

Looks better so far. That was a lot of damage to repair from the track issue.

I did a sliding dome on mine. You just need some slim evergreen strip to make the runners for it. I like what you've done with the laser rifles.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks!

My only concern with the sliding dome is the glue I will use to fixing the tracks. I'm gonna make some tests to be sure that the "holy" canopy won't be affected.

I read somewhere that the melting problem was caused not by chemical reaction between the vinyl and the plastic, but between the vinyl and the metallic particles of the compound from which the plastic was made.

Maybe the guy is right. Look what happend with the vinyl covers of those files that I left overnight over the wooden box, painted by my wife with a metallic gold color.


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## Fernando Mureb

The cargo rack after a "massage" with hot water and a coat of Tamiya white primer.


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## Fernando Mureb

Following a suggestion by Paul in his instructions for the photoetch set, I made modifications to the front of the chassis, in order to eliminate the lateral curvatures of the chassis' front end, making it possible to install the part #25 as the lower screen cover (note that the aperture must be bigger).

By the reference images I have, I think this is indeed more accurate. I used Tamiya White Putty to do the heavy duty and for the finishing I employed Mr. Surfacer 500.


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## teslabe

Wow fernando, that was a fantastic job cleaning up the damage, I can't see where any of it was.... I look forward to following this thread......:thumbsup:
I also love the rifles, sweet.....


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe!

I need some help!

As you guys have seen, the melting problem destroyed the supports of the seats, so I will have to rebuild them. The support that stood in better conditions is 11.33mm hight. Could someone confirm that measure for me? Thanks a lot in advance. :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Teslabe!
> 
> I need some help!
> 
> As you guys have seen, the melting problem destroyed the supports of the seats, so I will have to rebuild them. The support that stood in better conditions is 11.33mm hight. Could someone confirm that measure for me? Thanks a lot in advance. :thumbsup:


My chairs are glued in so I cannot measure them very well. Sorry! 

Couple cool ideas: Scratch build some fake interior for the open front grill. I've seen some really cool results with that. I got so many ideas from this build:

http://www.ipms-css.org/wp-gallery2.php?g2_itemId=7408

Like putting details behind the photo etch grill, and the "real" curtains.


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## kdaracal

Here's a picture of my paper curtains. I used some thick 8 1/2 x 11 specialty stock from a scrapbook store. The kind you find at Micheal's. The ones you pay for by the sheet. 








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## kdaracal

I watched all the episodes to try to catch a glimpse of the floor around the chairs. It just can not be found, so I went ahead and used Plastruct diamond plate.


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## Fernando Mureb

kdaracal said:


> My chairs are glued in so I cannot measure them very well. Sorry!
> 
> No problem. I was expecting that as most of you guys already built your kits, it would be difficult to take measures. Hope a good soul still have a kit unbuilt.
> 
> Couple cool ideas: Scratch build some fake interior for the open front grill. I've seen some really cool results with that. I got so many ideas from this build:
> 
> http://www.ipms-css.org/wp-gallery2.php?g2_itemId=7408
> 
> Like putting details behind the photo etch grill, and the "real" curtains.


Yes! Bill Gudmundson made a spectacular work. My problem is that I don't have scraps from military kits or trucks that I could use. For now, I am working with some ideas based on two "facts" which are, the Chariot is an amphibious and futuristic vehicle. So, besides the improbable use of gas and diesel as combustible, what should be behind the lower front screen, to interact with water?


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## Fernando Mureb

kdaracal said:


> Here's a picture of my paper curtains. I used some thick 8 1/2 x 11 specialty stock from a scrapbook store. The kind you find at Micheal's. The ones you pay for by the sheet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]


I have this picture of your build to use as a reference, if you don't mind. 
Anyway, I will have to walk around and see what I can find out that serves for this purpose.



kdaracal said:


> I watched all the episodes to try to catch a glimpse of the floor around the chairs. It just can not be found, so I went ahead and used Plastruct diamond plate.


That is exactly what I have in mind. I already bought a sheet from Plastruct.

I had the same difficult to figure out how should be the floor. There was no way that I could come across any image. I think that this is an open theme.


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## starseeker

This is the best shot I have of the floor. It seems featureless. Note the silver trim on the side under the cushions, lined with rivets. It's much more visible in Monster Plants. And the fillet across the back of the floor to the back door.
Edit: And I'm really looking forward to following your build. Your enthusiasm and skill are always inspiring, and maybe they'll inspire me to re-start my long-dead attempt at this kit. Fingers crossed. For both of us.


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## wander1107

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Teslabe!
> 
> I need some help!
> 
> As you guys have seen, the melting problem destroyed the supports of the seats, so I will have to rebuild them. The support that stood in better conditions is 11.33mm hight. Could someone confirm that measure for me? Thanks a lot in advance. :thumbsup:


Hi Fernando,

I count 14mm in height. From the floor to the top of the post.


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## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> This is the best shot I have of the floor. It seems featureless. Note the silver trim on the side under the cushions, lined with rivets. It's much more visible in Monster Plants. And the fillet across the back of the floor to the back door.
> Edit: And I'm really looking forward to following your build. Your enthusiasm and skill are always inspiring, and maybe they'll inspire me to re-start my long-dead attempt at this kit. Fingers crossed. For both of us.


Thanks my friend!

Good screen shot. Whatever the floor was made of it had a colour close to aluminum or steel.


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## Fernando Mureb

wander1107 said:


> Hi Fernando,
> 
> I count 14mm in height. From the floor to the top of the post.


Hi Wander!

Thank you so much, buddy! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

On the frontal part of the body I did a big mess (almost a disaster), when I was bending the screen to match the front body contour and to put it to flush with the body surface (not counting the raised framework). 

I was using a bending tool, but for some reason (stupidity?) I was not managing to bend the metal exactly on the engraved line close to the border, which was there exactly to make it easy that movement. 

However, the damn metal insisted in bending in the first row of holes, certainly because this place offered lower resistance. Then, I decided to use a plier and, at some point, it slid and hit the front of the screen. 

Believe me; the appearance of the screen you are seeing is far from what it became after my mistake. It took a while for me to, patiently, restore this part to its original state (well, almost. Nevertheless, suicide was an option that wandered in my mind then).



I am trying to reach this result:


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## Fernando Mureb

Progress in the chassis.







I cut two metal strips from the photoetch fret aiming the finishing of the front borders of the chassis.


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## Manatee Dream

Loving the build. I always appreciate when people show mistakes and how they corrected them. Your chariot is coming along nicely. Going to have to book mark this for when the 1/35 chariot comes out.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks pal! I am always concerned about that because it was due threads like that that I learned a lot in the past and am still in the process. 

This is the front body primed and ready to be painted.


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## Fernando Mureb

The process of repairing the seats' supports.










Whew! Some sanding here and there and I'm gonna call this good.


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## Fernando Mureb

I built a platform inside the chassis to accommodate the electronics.


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## Fernando Mureb

Spotlights ready for the lighting process.


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## teslabe

That's coming along nicely Fernando.....


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe!

A lot of work today. I am shooting at all directions.

Making the holes between the body's floor and the chassis, aiming the frontal overall lighting and the robot.





I had plenty of room to making the hole and I made it precisely here:



I decided to use the luggage part (I will replace it with Drew's) to build a cover for the rear access hole to the chassis.


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## Fernando Mureb

Here you can see the hole in the rear of the chassis where will be the power pack... ops... power plug.


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## Fernando Mureb

I am enhancing the photo etch kit a bit. I exaggerated the size of the buttons because, for the scale, I feel that the overall look is gonna be more... hmmm... sharp(?), or ...highlighted. I am missing appropriate the word.



Improvements on the screen console. Note the handle (an idea borrowed from Ace Airspeed).



Edit: Obviously, the tube will serve to permit the passage of the wires to the scanner.


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## Fernando Mureb

Rack ready to be primed and painted.



Beginning the improvements on the side benchs.


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## kdaracal

You're a modeling monster. Maybe a cyclops monster.


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## Trekkriffic

At the rate you are going Fernando you will be the next Ben Hur amongst Chariot builders. Nice progress and a fun read.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks guys! It's very kind of you. :thumbsup:

I started to paint the small parts of the Chariot that are orange, with Tamyia TS-12. I did not like the result, because the paint is too glossy. The thing seems that is gonna glow in the dark. 

So, I applied a layer of clear Tamyia semi-gloss coat to decrease the brightness, but the final effect was somewhat strange, because the orange ended up more matt than I expected and even slightly off-white. If my intention had been to apply weathering to those parts I would not have done a better job, because they were left with a "dusty" appearance, as if I had used talcum powder on them, if you guys understand me. 

I took some photos. Tomorrow I will repaint the seats and, with new images, I can show a comparison for you.

I also expect to have pictures of the chassis paint job process, as well as from the side benches, central and side consoles and the robot's stand. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Ok. We have progress in several areas. Let me show you.

The antena and the back of the solar plate were painted Anthracyte Grey. Both bases are Steel. The front of the plate is Chrome Silver. The the accordion like "rubber" cover is flat black.





Finishing the side benches to be painted.







The two images bellow show various pieces painted with Tamiya Light Gunmetal. I tried to shoot from different angles, trying to give you a correct impression of this color, but I'm afraid I failed. I am very satisfied with this choice.


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## Fernando Mureb

Preparing to paint the detailing with Tamiya mica Silver on some parts.


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## Fernando Mureb

After the painting job.


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## Fernando Mureb

Now, masked to be painted with orange.


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## Fernando Mureb

Ok, this is the dashboard. My plans for lighting are a mix of the use of F.O. and indirect lighting.

I glued the photo etch on a strip of yellow plastic (a piece of CD case), in order to give a yellowish color to the steady lights on the panel.

Besides, the plastic strip will help to fix the F.O. in a vertical and secure position, which would be very difficult with only the photoetch, due to its very small thickness.

I think that the "raising effect" produced by the strip will also enhance the dashboard look.


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## Fernando Mureb

I forgot to post the pictures showing the masking process of the chariot's body.





Here, the little bits painted.



And here, the explanation of the rails on the driver's and passenger's floor. It is an idea I borrowed from Bill Gudmundson.


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## Fernando Mureb

*My plan about the dashboard*


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## WEAPON X

Looking Good!


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## LIS FAN 4ever

*Your Chariot inspired me....*

Although I couldn't do the level of detail you did on such a smaller scale - I had to do a 1:6 scale for my Captain Action and GI Joe figures.

If I go this route again - I will be looking at your work very carefully for all the details you put it!

Great work!

LIS FAN4ever

here a few shots of my 1:6 scale Lost in Space Chariot!


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## Fernando Mureb

Wow!! Very nice! I didn't know this kit. You built it from scratch, right? :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Now, what a realistic diorama, sir! :tongue:


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## LIS FAN 4ever

*Thank YOU*

yes this was from scratch....

I found an old action man tank that was pretty beat up and I used the threads obviously for the chassis base and chairs and the dash from an old Adventure team mobile support unit and so on....it tooks months to build as I had a plastics fabricator make the plastic walls and I did the rest.

It was a very cool project - nothing like the delicate nature of your chariot.

My version gave me some "poetic licenses" so to speak and I updated and added a few cool items - side and rear platforms, interior lab stations (managed by an ER1 - environmental robot, front loader arms to carry heavy equipment as well as a whole host of items on the interior. I loved the solar/polar shade which really is a sun blocker for a car windshield - I add legs and tie down straps for additional effects

I even took a few liberties and made a couple of weather stations with one destroyed by a giant - ala Lost in Space with Captain Action standing near a beast's footprint - notice the second season Lost in Space laser rifle in the Major's hands!

Thanks for the comments and feedback - you build is REALLY amazing!!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks my friend.

I am having a little difficult to finish the paint job on the internal side benches and the low body, because I am trying to do the seams between the various colors the sharpest and most clean I can.

That's why I haven't posted pictures since one week ago.

I am looking forward to begin the lighting job.


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## Fernando Mureb

*Slow progress in my paint job*


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## Fernando Mureb

*Slow progress in my paint job*


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## Fernando Mureb

*Slow progress in my paint job*


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## Fernando Mureb

Now I am doing a watchmaker job, to repair all the little flaws in the various seams between colors or caused when I removed the masking tapes.


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## starseeker

Wow, Fernando, what an exquisite example of craftsmanship. You may yet inspire me to try to re-start mine. Really enjoying watching this.


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## teslabe

I love seeing the forward progress of your builds and this has special place for me, keep posting......:thumbsup:


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## Captain Han Solo

Well done sir!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you folks.

The slooooow progress continues.


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## starseeker

Well, I don't know what the sum of the parts is going to turn out like but so far your individual Chariot parts are the finest I've ever seen.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy. I hope I ain't gonna glue the canopy in a reverse position.


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## Fernando Mureb

I stayed all day with a 00000 paintbrush correcting painting details, especially in the seam lines between different colors.

I also made some progress in other areas, but the highlight of the day was the crap that you see in the picture below.

I fixed the panel on the radio with Scotch blue tape aiming to paint it and when I tried to remove it, the screen of the speaker got stuck on the tape.

Such delicacy should have deserved a better care on my part.


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## Fernando Mureb

Lessons to be learned from this episode: 

1) paint photoetch parts while in fret; 
2) if this is not possible, use a less tacky tape, like Tamiya, to hold parts for painting job; 
3) in the specific case of such delicate screens, avoid tape underneath the screen.


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## kdaracal

Fernando Mureb said:


> I stayed all day with a 00000 paintbrush correcting painting details, especially in the seam lines between different colors.
> 
> I also made some progress in other areas, but the highlight of the day was the crap that you see in the picture below.
> 
> I fixed the panel on the radio with Scotch blue tape aiming to paint it and when I tried to remove it, the screen of the speaker got stuck on the tape.
> 
> Such delicacy should have deserved a better care on my part.


So sorry, sir!!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy! I'll address this thing later.

Improving the scanner. I still need to paint the screen panel in flat black and glue the screen decal. I will also add three buttons on the panel.


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## Fernando Mureb

Improving the central console and the front side of the scanner.


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## Fernando Mureb

Preparing the floor covering. I will paint it with Tamiya Mica Silver.


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## Fernando Mureb

Some other finishings.


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## Fernando Mureb

Now I have to face the... (Beethoven's, 5th symphony intro) *canopy* - buuu!!!! :freak:


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## WEAPON X

So Awesome!


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## woof359

hmmmmm, maybe I shood open the box and check out the parts, got it when the chariot first came out.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you, guys.

I'm so sorry for have not posted here for over 10 days. The case is that my job has taken all my time, so I have been prohibited to "enter into Neverland" for almost two weeks.

Probabily things will not change for the next three or four weeks, but I hope I will manage to keep the work going on at least in the weekends.


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## liskorea317

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thank you, guys.
> 
> I'm so sorry for have not posted here for over 10 days. The case is that my job has taken all my time, so I have been prohibited to "enter into Neverland" for almost two weeks.
> 
> Probabily things will not change for the next three or four weeks, but I hope I will manage to keep the work going on at least in the weekends.


No worries! It's worth the wait!


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## kdaracal

woof359 said:


> hmmmmm, maybe I shood open the box and check out the parts, got it when the chariot first came out.


I did the same a couple years ago. Waited, that is. But the damage was minimal because of just dumb luck. The vinyl happened to be located away from most plastic. Fernando had some of the worst damage I've seen on Hobby Talk.


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## kdaracal

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thank you, guys.
> 
> I'm so sorry for have not posted here for over 10 days. The case is that my job has taken all my time, so I have been prohibited to "enter into Neverland" for almost two weeks.
> 
> Probabily things will not change for the next three or four weeks, but I hope I will manage to keep the work going on at least in the weekends.


Hope all goes well at work. I haven't been building due to some personal issues, myself. I never start more than one model at a time, and I find myself with 3 partials going at once. And no time to build. 

Sheesh.


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Kdaracal and Liskorea317!

Thank you guys. It is not a problem, indeed. In fact, I should be happy, for the more the work the more the income, isn't it? 

However, our job should be part of one's way of life and not a way of death, eh, eh. But some times is inevitable, your job demands 100% of your time.

Nevertheless, I have managed to make some progress, and I am documenting every step, as always. 

This weekend we will have a huge holiday (Brazilian carnival season), from 29/02 to 05/03. :woohoo:

I hope to achieve a real progress on this project, unless I get drunk the entire carnival. :drunk:


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## Tim Nolan

Fernando it's good to see you working on this again!! You know, we go thru spells, (especially after new kit releases), where we see the EXACT same kit on several dozen threads, and it gets a bit boring! THIS kit is a truly great one, one of those kits that all of us LIS fans have wanted our whole life, so it's always good to see one being built! I never get tired of looking at this or J2 threads, both kits are just fantastic! You are doing a great job on this build so far, it will be a piece to be proud of in your collection when it's done, so keep at it! I have done 3 so far, and it's always an enjoyable experience! (Yes, the canaopy IS a bugger!!) You've added some nice scratch-work details so far, keep it going! We'll be watching!!! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Tim!

Thank you for your kind words. Your works on the Chariot are some of my main references.

Yes, this is really a great kit, as well as the other LIS-Moebius kits. I still have a Space Pod and the Jupiter 2 waiting. I am in my learning curve. My targets are the J2 and the two big Enterprises. I have a lot to learn before facing those challenges.


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## Fernando Mureb

Hello to all. 

After a few weeks without posting here, I managed to collect a decent amount of photos of my slow progress along these days. Actually, it was not only progress, since there was also disasters that slowed the work. 

Let's start by the disasters. 

My next step in this project was to paint the canopy. To do this I decided to apply a layer of Future wax before painting. 

As I do not have airbrush and I was afraid that a brush could leave marks on the flat surfaces of the piece, I decided to apply a wax bath on the canopy.

However, with a clear part of this huge size, I couldn't intend to immerse the entire piece in a bow full of wax, because I simply didn't have the two or three litres necessary to do that (we have some cristal wax brands in Brazil, but I don't know whether they are equivalent options or not). 

So, here is what I did.

1) Preparing. Please, don't ask what the sock is doing there.



2) Washing (warm water with dishwasher soap)



3) And this...





I do not have photos of the mess. The following occurred: 

a) The wax didn't equally spread over the surface, when I poured over the piece with the spoon. 

b) The wax left drip marks on the broad flat surfaces of the canopy, despite my efforts to get me rid from the excess (the problem is: there is no corner where you can make the liquid dripping to). 

c) When falling back into the pot, the liquid formed bubbles, which ended up being taken with the spoon to the canopy, where they did not blow out. 

Bottom line: if there still is some Chariot kit out there waiting to be mounted, please do not apply this method onto the canopy. If you don't have an airbrush, use a common brush.


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## Fernando Mureb

Another problem. I had to redo the bottom of the front panel, because I forgot to leave room for the fitting of the center console.


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## Fernando Mureb

On the canopy disaster, I forgot to say that now I'm running a meticulous and patient work to remove the wax with isopropyl alcohol, trying to preserve the surface as pristine as possible.


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## Fernando Mureb

Those are what I'm used to call cannons of light. I will use them to house the blinking LEDs which will lighting the FOs.







In the thinner tube, will be the LED; in the widest, the FO. I choose this way because it is easier to work on the ends of the links, I mean, on the consoles and on the lighting boards, before making the junction.


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## Fernando Mureb

Working on the headlights.


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## Fernando Mureb

Prototyping the circuit board for the blinking Leds.



Building the board.



This one is to the steady lights.


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## Fernando Mureb

A panoramic view of all the subassemblies.



Now, close views of each one.


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## gman223

Very nice work!
As for the canopy I've never had future leave brush marks on car bodies (self leveling). I use a 3/4 inch flat sable brush. I've never brushed a clear part that big but i can't see that it would matter its still going to self level.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hello to all.
> 
> After a few weeks without posting here, I managed to collect a decent amount of photos of my slow progress along these days. Actually, it was not only progress, since there was also disasters that slowed the work.
> 
> Let's start by the disasters.
> 
> My next step in this project was to paint the canopy. To do this I decided to apply a layer of Future wax before painting.
> 
> As I do not have airbrush and I was afraid that a brush could leave marks on the flat surfaces of the piece, I decided to apply a wax bath on the canopy.
> 
> However, with a clear part of this huge size, I couldn't intend to immerse the entire piece in a bow full of wax, because I simply didn't have the two or three litres necessary to do that (we have some cristal wax brands in Brazil, but I don't know whether they are equivalent options or not).
> 
> So, here is what I did.
> 
> 1) Preparing. Please, don't ask what the sock is doing there.
> 
> 2) Washing (warm water with dishwasher soap)
> I do not have photos of the mess. The following occurred:
> 
> a) The wax didn't equally spread over the surface, when I poured over the piece with the spoon.
> 
> b) The wax left drip marks on the broad flat surfaces of the canopy, despite my efforts to get me rid from the excess (the problem is: there is no corner where you can make the liquid dripping to).
> 
> c) When falling back into the pot, the liquid formed bubbles, which ended up being taken with the spoon to the canopy, where they did not blow out.
> 
> Bottom line: if there still is some Chariot kit out there waiting to be mounted, please do not apply this method onto the canopy. If you don't have an airbrush, use a common brush.


Fernando, let me first say that you are one of the finest builders I've seen, I love looking at your threads, such fun......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

As for the canopy and Future floor wax, I had two go to hell using that stuff,
from now on it only goes on the floors, not on any of my builds......
I ended up using Aztec Dummy's orange mask on the inside and "Bare Metal Foil" on the outside of two new canopies. I just cut it into thin strips and took my time, I think I was well rewarded for the time I took.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi guys! Thank you for your kind words. I still continue having to dedicate almost 16 hours a day to my recent client, so... little time to the robby, as I use my spare time to dedicate to my family and... to sleep!:drunk:

On the weekends I am sharing my free time between my several interest besides the hobby.

As soon as I have finished cleanning the canopy I will try to apply Future (yes, I am an idiot) with a soft brush and then proceed with the painting job.

After that, I have to address the lighting job of the external spotlights, welding those damn tiny SMD LEDs. :freak:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Slooooooooow prooooogreeeess here*











The 603 SMD LEDs will fit the lower spotlights, but not the upper ones. It must be 805 at maximum. I've already bought them... from China... 3 months to get here.:freak:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Slooooooooow prooooogreeeess here*

I receive this kit from Crow's Nest yesterday. Little preciosities. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:









A comparison between the kit's rifle and Crow's.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Today I finally took my time to carefully remove the Future wax layer from the canopy. 

The work took an hour and a half and I used cotton and isopropyl alcohol. The wax was easily removed and the cotton did not leave any scratches or marks on the delicate surface. 

I'm very relieved, because I feared having made a irreversible stupidity.

Now I am gonna do the whole thing again, this time using a good, old soft brush.


----------



## starseeker

Fernando, I've never had any luck with Future on such a large surface. It works great on airplane canopies, but the excess never drains properly (for me), especially with the size and angles of the big Chariot. Dipping didn't work, brushing didn't work. People claim great success with airbrushing and I think with practice I could make that work. Maybe. Perhaps someone who has had success Future-ing the Chariot could give us all a how-to. 
Windex, or probably any blue-colored glass cleaner, will dissolve Future. Windex is still not the safest product to breathe but it's a lot less toxic than rubbing alcohol. Just submerge and soak for a while. No scrubbing needed. Stay well-ventilated. 
Glad to have you back after Carnival. So your vision is finally returning? Me, I was blind for three days afterward and I live in Canada.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Starseeker! 

You are right. The only clear parts of this kit which I have no problem with was the dome and the robot's bubble, both small and curved surfaces.

I will try brushing a CD case to see what hapens. If I got bad results I'm gonna give it up.

I have heard that it has been extremely cold there in Canada. I'm gonna visit Chicago on April 12. Hope temperatures have risen till there.


----------



## Genos

Fernado,

Great build! What is the item in the 3rd picture, just below the luggage?

Gene


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Genos.

That piece is a mechanism on which the driver's sticks are attached and it is suposed to transmit the driver's commands to the gears, I guess.

It is a little master piece from Crow's Nest and it was never shown on screen although we have already seen it in some pictures of a snowcat vehicle.


----------



## Genos

AHA! Thank you Fernado. I just couldn't I recall seeing an object like that in the chariot. Now that I know what it is, it all makes sense. Will this new part be visible once the chariot is completely assembled?

Gene


----------



## Fernando Mureb

For sure! As an example, I attached a picture of the spectacular build from Tim Nolan.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hello guys!

It's been some while since my last post on march, 23. After three months of intense work in my business I have managed to grab a couple of hours to post some pictures of my slow progress.

Although I have had little time to dedicate myself to the hobby, I managed to make some progress here and there, as you will see.

Right now, I have several subassemblies ready to be put together.

The sequence bellow shows the front spotlights being prepared for lighting.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Assembling the rack.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

The seats.

I will have to improvise seat belts to the Drew's figures.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Next, mounting the rack for the laser rifles, using leftover photoetch set and copying a good idea from Tim Nolan.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Begining the work on the robot.


----------



## Nova Mike

Build looks great, looking forward to more pictures :thumbsup:


----------



## drewid142

Nice Work! Thanks for sharing!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you guys!

Unfortunately, sometimes I pay such an attention on the difficult stuff that I end up missing the easy ones, like the decal applied on the programming bay.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Lighting the Robot.*

The twelve lenses will be emulated by FO linked to several flashing, colored LEDs.



The ten buttons will be iluminated by one warm white LED.



I put two blinking red LEDs to make the voice synchronization effect on the chest neon. 



The two big buttons will be emulated by two short pieces of FO, which will receive light from the same LED that will illuminate the ten square buttons.





One thin FO will light the lense in the programing bay. The FO will be linked to a blinking yellow LED.


----------



## Nova Mike

Looking Good :thumbsup: It will be nice to see when lit up. Thanks


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks budy!


----------



## starseeker

This is brilliant, Fernando! A joy to warch.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Starseeker.

Things are going on in a slow rhythm. I would like to go faster, but my job and others interests don't allow me, for while at least.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

If you remember, in post #80 I tried to apply a layer of Future wax on the canopy, letting the liquid dropping on it and drain which showed to be a disastrous choice.

Than I had to remove all the wax using isopropyl alcohol, in a meticulous, patient and VERY time consuming job.

After that, I apply the wax again, this time using a new soft brush. Although I have took several measures to avoid dust, they were not enough.

In addition, the wax didn't spread equally on the flat surfaces of the canopy, making the light, when crossing the plastic, become somewhat diffuse, I do not know how to explain it.
So, yes, another meticulous, patient and VERY time consuming job to remove the wax again, this time forever. 

Sincerely, although I am aware of my limitations as a modeller, I don't believe that the Future wax can have, on a very big canopy like the Chariot's, the same effect of clearness that the clear plastic itself have. I can be wrong, though. 

Of course the wax is excellent and protective, but on small pieces, I believe.

As for the protection against yellowing along the years, well... let it be.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Now, let's paint this thing. Time to use Lou's paint masks.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hello guys.

After month away from my hobby, I am back. When I stopped modeling almost eight months ago, it was due my job (the second time, being the first between june and december, 2014). But in both opportunities I could well start again after two or three months if I wanted. It was only after several attempts to restart modeling again that I realized how I was tired of this kit and that was the actual reason for the postponements.

It was always my habit to build one kit at a time, and to my eyes it was interesting to see people here doing two or more models simultaneously. I thought that this behavior was due to the incapacity to contain the anxiety of waiting for the completion of a model to start another. But now I understand that people used one build to "rest", avoiding to get tired from another one.

So, that is what I am going to do from now on. I am starting a WIP thread on the C-57D and it is my intention to continue with the Chariot too, in so far as it got me excited again.

In fact, I had already started doing this a couple of weeks ago and thus I have some pictures to show now. It is no big thing, but... well... it is a start.





Making rings for the door's curtains.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I used 0805 SMD LEDs and epoxi to make the top foglights. For the other external lights I used 3528 SMD LED, except for the headlights, in which I put a pair of 5mm LEDs.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Lou!


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hello guys.
> 
> After month away from my hobby, I am back. When I stopped modeling almost eight months ago, it was due my job (the second time, being the first between june and december, 2014). But in both opportunities I could well start again after two or three months if I wanted. It was only after several attempts to restart modeling again that I realized how I was tired of this kit and that was the actual reason for the postponements.
> 
> It was always my habit to build one kit at a time, and to my eyes it was interesting to see people here doing two or more models simultaneously. I thought that this behavior was due to the incapacity to contain the anxiety of waiting for the completion of a model to start another. But now I understand that people used one build to "rest", avoiding to get tired from another one.
> 
> So, that is what I am going to do from now on. I am starting a WIP thread on the C-57D and it is my intention to continue with the Chariot too, in so far as it got me excited again.
> 
> In fact, I had already started doing this a couple of weeks ago and thus I have some pictures to show now. It is no big thing, but... well... it is a start.
> 
> 
> Making rings for the door's curtains.


Very nice work, are those latches I see to hold the doors closed ? Glad you chose to start this build back up again, keep the pictures coming.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Lou!


Sweet...... I couldn't imagine doing those canapes without Lou's masks, they turned out great my friend.....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I used 0805 SMD LEDs and epoxi to make the top foglights. For the other external lights I used 3528 SMD LED, except for the headlights, in which I put a pair of 5mm LEDs.


You have to have good eyes or magnifying glass for those little guys....:freak:
Nice job......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe

Thank you for your gentle words. It seems that in this project my libido has kept itself coming and going. 

The latches you are referring to are from Paragrafix photo etch kit and they don't keep the doors closed. To say the truth, I didn't try to do that yet. 

About the SMD LEDs, I never thought I would have those tiny things done, especially the two on the top of canopy. :freak:


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## WEAPON X

Awesome Build!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy. :thumbsup:

In fact it is in the Guinness Book as the most delayed build of all time.


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## subtoair

Beautiful build!!!! Great attention to detail!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you two times: one for your kind words and the other for having start building a Chariot, because that was the main reason why I am here again. :thumbsup:


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## wander1107

Awesome build Fernando. Thanks for showing us each detail you're working on. I have this kit in my stash and you're making think of possibilities I haven't thought about before. Those SMD LEDs are so tiny. It looks like they would work for the Dark Knight's Tumbler lights.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks wander1107.

I like to show all in details because was in this way that I learned a lot here, in the past, with other modelers which did the same. 

I hope to be helping beginners in some way. :wave:


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## subtoair

Glad you got back on the Chariot build Fernando! For me seeing your build as well as others is what got me started with my Chariot build .Like I said before I got into the this about 8 years late. But I am learning a lot from you and others as I see other people post! I just hope mine comes out half as good as yours! Keep up the great work,and I can not wait for your next progress post.

Dennis


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## Fernando Mureb

I finished the searchlights, fixing them on the top of canopy. Now it will follow a delicate and complicated operation to fix the magwires along the internal frames, until they reach the canopy borders. Then, I have to cover the wires with strips from Lou Dalmaso's masking tapes, in order to hide them.

The last step will be making some sort of electrical contacts to be connected with another pair inside the base, when canopy and base are attached, to allow for the searchlights to be powered. 

I also built tracks to make possible for the dome to slide.

Pictures soon. Stay tuned. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## starseeker

and always a pleasure and an inspiration to watch!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I feel that things are a little bit quiet around here. You could help to shake the forum, allowing us be delighted by one of those extraordinary wip from yours.:wave:


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## teslabe

Very very nice job with the lights and track for the dome, keep posting more pictures......:thumbsup::thumbsup::wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe. 

I have almost all the sub assemblies done. When I finish the tracks (paint) and the problem to connect the search lights wires to the base, it will be just a case of put everything together. 

Oh, I almost forgot the figures (from Drew's). It won't be the most attractive of the jobs. For me, at least. :freak:


----------



## subtoair

Your build is really coming along! I like the way your top spot light looks when lite. I can not wait for you to mount the clear cabin to the track assembly. Really looking super nice! Keep up the great work.

Dennis


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Dennis.

I have reference pictures showing the search lights backs and supports painted, both, orange and chrome on the real Chariot, although they always show in orange on the hero.

I painted mine chrome, but I am considering change the color to orange, like yours, leaving just a chrome ring around the clear lenses.


----------



## subtoair

Hows the Chariot coming? I go over your build every night,and it really inspires me when I look at your pictures, to try to do my best on my model,after seeing yours. Looking forward to seeing more of your progress! Dennis


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hey Dennis. 

I am so proud for your interest about my project! Thank you! 

I have had some problems at my job that have been drawn all my energy. When a little bit remains, I employ it studying electronics for my other project on the C-57D.

So, I am sorry for having no progress here. Let's see if I can do something next week. :wave:


----------



## subtoair

That,s fine,I know about having a lot of irons in the fire at times to. When ever you have more time,that will be fine. The C-57D sounds interesting! Keep us posted! Dennis


----------



## Fernando Mureb

So, I finally managed to find some time to dedicate to this project.

First of all, I wanted to finished the problem of making those wires used to connect the upper searchlights reach the base of the canopy.

I must confess that my patience with this project is close to the end. I don't know why, but I am sure that I will regret in the future for not having made a better job here.

So, what you will see here reflect this disposition. I decided to glue the wires along the border of the front doors using epoxy, because it doesn't affect clear plastic and, due its pasty consistency, which was supposed to not spread itself around the point where it was applied.

Well, I was wrong about the last assumption. And my shaking hands didn't help either.


----------



## subtoair

Glad to see your back!! Keep posting nice job!


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## Fernando Mureb

Regarding the ceiling, I decided to cover the wires with the same adhesive masking tape used to make the internal "painting" of the frames. The result was not the least bit beautiful.

I also cover with strips of masking tape the part of the wire that goes down the sides of the canopy.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Dennis!!!

For those who intend to do this task in a more elegant way, my advice would be:

1) First of all, use wires thinner than I did (maybe 34 AWG); 
2) Cut a piece of thick plastic the size of the canopy's upper front frame;
3) Make to channels on one side of the plastic, to embed the wires;
4) Make to little hole on the other side to plug in the searchlights' handlers and paint orange;
5) Embed the wires into the channels and glue them;
6) Glue the plastic in position.

To drive the wires along the doors' edges, use very thin brass tubes.

The problem is the curve part of the canopy. You have to have an adequate tool to bend the tube without breaking it and (what is much more difficult) make this molding the tube to the canopy's curvature. :freak:

As you can see, I gave up on all that.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Looking at the canopy from (a good ) distance, it does not seem so bad!!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

When I first painted the several external lights, I used chrome silver, thinking of the real thing on most cars and trucks of the sixties. Then, I saw subtoair's project and realised that I should well making it wrong. So I did what I was supposed to do always as a modeler: I went to see my reference images.

Bingo!! All of them were painted orange both on the full size chariot as well as on the miniature.

So I did the painting job again.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Finishing the front panel.

I put a rectangular piece of plastic with little pieces of various things (plastic, wires, resistors, etc.) to simulate an engine or something like that. I'm sorry, I forgot to take pictures.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I'm gonna paint those red.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Beggining to glue the sub-assemblies together.



Something tells me I'm going to regret bitterly of having exaggerated so much the lighting of this kit.


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## subtoair

Your build is looking very nice. I like all the fiber optics that you installed in the dash. That should really bring the control panel more to life. The wiring in the clear canopy looks really good to me. I will use your good idea,s on the different ways to install the wiring. I also like the console box you made for the panel gauges,in front of the drivers seat. That might be my next project. I wish that I was working on the canopy also,you can now really see your vehicle coming together. Keep posting, its looking great!


----------



## charonjr

I just opened my 8 year old kit in a panic about treads. Oh my...! Horrible. The plastic contact points are still soft, many a wheel and tread impressions. Indeed, some areas, the plastic was removed when I detached the rubber! Oh Lord! What a MESS!!! You would think the manufacturers would have known of the chemical interactions between the two materials. Wow.

Has anyone found a way to increase the clarity of the canopy plastic? It's not optically clear. More like, I don't know, slightly hazy or something, just not a clear view. I'd almost want to replace it all with glass, except parts. I don't know. I am learning how to use a 3D printer. And I have ordered ABS clear filament. Not sure if it is optically clear, but it might be worth a try.


----------



## charonjr

Oh, where did you get the decals? There is no set with my kit, if it was meant have one. So Paragrafix, Lou Dalmaso masks and decals? Didn't someone once offer a corrected set of treads? These are a fair approximation, but not like the treads on the show.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

subtoair said:


> Your build is looking very nice. I like all the fiber optics that you installed in the dash. That should really bring the control panel more to life. The wiring in the clear canopy looks really good to me. I will use your good idea,s on the different ways to install the wiring. I also like the console box you made for the panel gauges,in front of the drivers seat. That might be my next project. I wish that I was working on the canopy also,you can now really see your vehicle coming together. Keep posting, its looking great!


Thanks buddy. :thumbsup:

The console (the panel) in front of the pilot seat is from the Paragrafix photo etch kit for the Chariot.

Cross your fingers, please. Assembling all those FO and wires will be a nightmare. :freak:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

charonjr said:


> I just opened my 8 year old kit in a panic about treads. Oh my...! Horrible. The plastic contact points are still soft, many a wheel and tread impressions. Indeed, some areas, the plastic was removed when I detached the rubber! Oh Lord! What a MESS!!! You would think the manufacturers would have known of the chemical interactions between the two materials. Wow.
> 
> Has anyone found a way to increase the clarity of the canopy plastic? It's not optically clear. More like, I don't know, slightly hazy or something, just not a clear view. I'd almost want to replace it all with glass, except parts. I don't know. I am learning how to use a 3D printer. And I have ordered ABS clear filament. Not sure if it is optically clear, but it might be worth a try.


Please, refer to the beggining of this thread to see whether what I did will be, in some way, useful for you. 

Moebius have been very kind with us modelers when it comes replacing damaged parts, even when it is not their fault, like when I made a big mess with the doors. 

I tried to improve the canopy transparency using Future wax, like other guys here, but it was almost a tragedy. You can learn a lot on how I screwed myself up trying to do that, searching the earlier posts.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

charonjr said:


> Oh, where did you get the decals? There is no set with my kit, if it was meant have one. So Paragrafix, Lou Dalmaso masks and decals? Didn't someone once offer a corrected set of treads? These are a fair approximation, but not like the treads on the show.


Masking kit => Aztek Dummy

Photo Etch and Decals => Paragrafix

I would also recommend the figures and luggages from Crow's Nest.

I really don't know whether there is aftermarket treads by now. I think that Just-an-Illusion used to sell it a while ago. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Some progress here.

Those tiny smd leds will be glued on each side of that piece of plastic which will be inserted inside the tube behind the scanner front panel. Each led will blink alternately.









I am sorry but this image below refused to stay in the correct position.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

No matter what I do, the damn pictures refuse to get on vertical position.

]


----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## Xenodyssey

Awesome detail work.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for the kind words. :thumbsup:


----------



## subtoair

The Scanner with the the base looks great! I like the color of the two units,they look closer to the colors used on the show. Your lighting really shows up good with the camera. Can not wait to see the complete assembly all lite up. Very nice job!!!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy.

It took a little while making all those connections. Here are some pictures.

A lot yet to do.











Bellow you can see a light leakage from the led that I used to light the 10 square buttons and the two big chest buttons, to the FO (on the left) used to simulate the 12 blinking lights. There is no way (or patience) to correct the problem. Enough. It's done.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I will have to correct the paint job around those 12 blinking lights. The paint that I applied on the FO flowed to the chest plate.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Doing the lighting and electronics.


----------



## starseeker

Merry Christmas, Fernando! And I hope you have a great 2016, full of health and happiness and more projects that continue to knock our socks off and inspire us to be better than we ever thought we could be. Outstanding Chariot. Thanks for sharing this build!


----------



## subtoair

Great work on the circuit boards and fiberoptics Fernando! Can not wait to see her come alive with power! That is one thing that I can not do is build the circuit boards etc,nice job, Have a merry Christmas and a happy new year, my friend.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> Merry Christmas, Fernando! And I hope you have a great 2016, full of health and happiness and more projects that continue to knock our socks off and inspire us to be better than we ever thought we could be. Outstanding Chariot. Thanks for sharing this build!


Hi Starseeker. 
Thank you very much for your gentle words and courtesy. I am a hard worker not an artist like you, Teslabe, Subtoair, Carson Dyle and others here. When you guys are doing things, all the materials appears to be happy in being molding exactly the way you want them to be, while I have to fight against them. :freak:

Anyway, at least I try to help somebody else showing my fails in details, so that one can learn from them and do a better job. 

I wish you a great 2016 with new releases from Moebius and the others main kit manufacturers. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

subtoair said:


> Great work on the circuit boards and fiberoptics Fernando! Can not wait to see her come alive with power! That is one thing that I can not do is build the circuit boards etc,nice job, Have a merry Christmas and a happy new year, my friend.


It has been a hard work. At a certain point of the soldering job all the lights went out and there was no way to turn them on again. I thought I had caused a short circuit that toasted all my LEDs. :freak:

After 30 minutes searching in vain, I almost destroyed the kit in despair. 

Then, I decided to leave it on the desk for one or two days and when I took it back in my hands, I saw the cause almost immediately. 

You can't imagine my happiness when all the lights blinked again. :woohoo:

I wish you a marry Christmas too and a new year plenty of WIP threads to help us with our builds. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Ok, here you have some images of the Chariot with power on.

I beg your pardon for the poor quality, but I did the best I could with my "point and shot" camera. The illumination around the subject is always a problem, especially if you are taking pictures from something that glows.



I must say that the warm white lights from those raised black panels on the dashboard are steady lights in a fixed pattern. I made that pattern by painting in black some of the holes on the photoetch set used to detail the dashboard. The blinking lights are those colored.





A lot of light leakage still waiting for correction. The speaker on the left side console also require some work.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

More pictures and a video soon. Stay tuned.


----------



## teslabe

Very clean work Fernando, everything is hidden that needs to be....:thumbsup:
It looks very "in-scale"....


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks. Let's see if I can improve this build a little bit.


----------



## subtoair

Looks great Fernando! all of the lights blink,that,s the way it should be like on the real chariot. Very clean job. I know on how you felt on the possibly of burning out the led,s.I had the same thing happen with my large Seaview model. Electronics for me can be a real pain in the neck. Anyway glad to hear that you got it back up to working. keep up the great work!


----------



## Paulbo

Fantastic work, Fernando!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thank you, guys. 

This has been a more complicated build than I ever expected. 

My new problem is: the canopy front window is shorter than the distance necessary to fit exactly the front border of the body, over the dashboard. I am trying to figure out where I can possibly made some mistake, when I assembled the base of the Chariot. 

Pictures about this mess soon.


----------



## subtoair

It sounds like it might be the same problem that I had Fernando, with the front
windshield not reaching the dash area. See #93 on my build form. I had to extend the top of the front dash around 1/8 taller to fix this. I sure you did the assembly correct.The factory made the mistake of not extending the front dash up to the correct height to meet up with the bottom of the windshield. I am not sure if this is the same problem that you have,but I thought that I would let you know of what I had to do to mine.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy.

I am following your excellent thread, but I had forgotten that you had already faced the same issue.

I can't understand how I hadn't noticed this problem when I did the dry fit test. So, now I will have to make the surgery with a super-extra-mega care to avoid affecting the dashboard.

Here, some more pictures.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I am trying to post an embedded video here, but there is no way to do that. I knew how to do it a year ago, but apparently something has changed. If someone has a tip, please let me know, otherwise I will post a link to the video. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

At this point of the project (12/31/2015), I had a problem regarding to a gap between the canopy and the front side of the body. It was so frustrating and discouraging that I decided to take a break.

In the interval I built a Space Pod and begin a C-57D spaceship. After a year, I resumed the project and tried to repair the base with minimum damage to the dashboard and the rest of the base.

Here you have some pictures.


----------



## Radiodugger

Fernando Mureb said:


> At this point of the project (12/31/2015), I had *a problem regarding a gap between the canopy and the front of the body.* It was so frustrating and discouraging that I decided to take a break.


Yep, Fernando! That is what killed that model for me. Too many_ issues_ with that one!

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb

Radiodugger said:


> Yep, Fernando! That is what killed that model for me. Too many_ issues_ with that one!
> 
> Doug


You have no idea about how painful was the process of making the repair in so restricted conditions, worried all the time not to dismantle the dashboard and scanner, with their several dozen FOs, LEDs, wires and all the rest (paint job, photoetch, etc). I almost gave it up. Well, a one year break is almost a waiver.


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## Alien

Fernando,

I have just read through your thread from top to tail.
Great work and a real inspiration.
My Chariot is still in its box waiting for a start.
But it is safe from plastic dissolving tracks :smile2:

Nice to see you used some Vero board (Strip board) for your electronics. It is certainly a stable for my modeling electronics work.

I am still in awe.

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb

Hey buddy! Thank you for your kind words. 

One day I will learn how to make my own printed circuit using photoetch techniques. 

Meanwhile, those boards are useful for their simple purpose. 

As for my Chariot, I am about to dedicate myself full-time to it. I only need a few more days to finish the Space Pod. 

So, you should expect more pictures here in a week.


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## Radiodugger

I can't believe that gap got by Moebius! I _will_ get the 1:35 scale when it comes out. My Pod is still being built. The 1/6th Robot is next, I guess. Moebius' Chariot, to me, is a P.O.S.

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb

I really don't know if this happened only to my model (and to subtoair's) or if it was a project error. Since I haven't seen other modelers complaints on this issue, my guess is that it was a bad luck.


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## Radiodugger

I'll have to make some inquiries...Fernando, you are a _champ_ and _a saint_ for not going ballistic over this. You're even giving it another shot! I wonder if _it is _a bad luck run...

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb

I love LIS, I love the vehicles and the robot. That helps to explain.


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## Radiodugger

Fernando Mureb said:


> I love LIS, I love the vehicles and the robot. That helps to explain.


Ha ha! Yes, it does! Me too! Sometimes _too much!_ :freak:

Doug


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## Alien

Fernando Mureb said:


> One day I will learn how to make my own printed circuit using photoetch techniques.


Fernando,

I recommend getting yourself one of the free PCB CAD programs (eg. Open source KiCAD or the free version of Eagle CAD) and design your PCBs and send the files out to one of the many companies who will do small orders.
I use OSH Park in the US and they are really good.
If fact I designed a couple of small PCBs today, for my Moebius Jupiter 2, to hold some SMD LEDs and sent the files off to OSH Park. If they work well, I will put them on OSH Parks 'Shared Projects' and then anyone can then pay to have them made. (As long as hand soldering SMD components is not too daunting. I know its NOT daunting for you. :laugh

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you, Alien.

I don't know whether we have companies offering services like that here in Brazil. I'll have to check this out.

Anyway, I believe that the shipping cost to receive a couple of boards in a letter envelope from the USA shouldn't be expensive. The only downside would be the time it requires.


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## Alien

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thank you, Alien.
> 
> I don't know whether we have companies offering services like that here in Brazil. I'll have to check this out.
> 
> Anyway, I believe that the shipping cost to receive a couple of boards in a letter envelope from the USA shouldn't be expensive. The only downside would be the time it requires.


Fernando,

OSH Parks PCB prices include worldwide shipping. That is great for me all the way at the bottom of the world. Standard manufacturing time is 12 calendar days. Pretty good.

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb

12 days?! Not bad at all! I will give it a try. Thank you.


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## Fernando Mureb

Ok, having finishing the Space Pod, I resumed this build. First of all, I made a complete retouch of the paint on the base and chassis.

Than, I plugged 8 pins on the edge of the canopy (thanks Subtoair for the idea) which are intended to align the canopy and base borders to each other and to keep them plugged together firmly.

Now I am painting the raised frames of the base and after that I have to face the problem of how to make the wires that come from the top search lights on the canopy to plug smoothly with their counterparts on the base, which go to the circuits into the chassis.

A word of advice: If you are ever to build a Chariot with the top search lights lighted, make the thing like Subtoair did, not like I did. He made an independent circuit and put the battery inside one of the cases on the rack. Much easier way, besides simple and discrete.

(pictures soon)


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## Fernando Mureb

Masking the base to paint the frames.


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## Fernando Mureb

I applied a coat of the same paint used on the base to seal the masking tapes, prevent the new color from leaking under them, blurring the base.


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## Fernando Mureb

Now, the new color...



... and voilà!


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## Fernando Mureb

Guys

I know for sure that 95% of what I post in my WIP threads is useless and bored to 95% of you modelers in this forum, because there is too much details about techniques that you guys already know for decades.

However, my aim is to help those novices whom, like me in 2006 (when I returned to the hobby after an absence of almost 25 years), need those details.

When I resumed the hobby, some guys here, that had the habit to make detailed WIP threads were of inestimable help for me. Then, I promised to myself that when I have enough skills to help somebody else I would do the same.

Thanks for your patience.


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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb

When I started this project, I decided that the search lights on the canopy would have lighting. I also decided that the current to the LEDs come on the circuit boards embedded in the chassis by means of wires would connect with other coming from the search lights, which would be under the internal orange tapes that make the finishing of the canopy's "windows" frames (from Aztec Dummies). The picture below show one of the two terminals on the base, not yet glued in place.



In the picture ahead, you can see the wires on the canopy, already detached from their position along the front-lateral windows frames. Note that I hadn't yet soldered the males terminals to the wires in order to plug them on their females counterparts on the base.

I decided to remove the wires and to abandon the scheme I had in mind when I realized how difficult would be to make the coupling between the canopy and the base, matching all the 8 pins that I glued on the canopy to keep it aligned with the base and, at the same time, placing the axles of the four doors on their respective holes on the canopy and base AND then plug the wires. 



I could bear do that process one time for all, gluing the canopy on the base definitely, but not leaving the canopy removable. Subtoair's solution was brilliant: he put the source of energy to the search lights into the bags on the rack. 

However, it was too late for me to do the same. So, I had another idea.


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## WEAPON X

Looking Good!


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## Fernando Mureb

Before continue to the search lights issue, see what I did with the curtains that stand on the windows between doors.

I used leftover from the Space Pod to make the curtains tube holders.


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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb

I connected a 3V button battery holder with the wires coming from the search lights to make a teste.



Then, I soldered the circuit with a tiny switch.


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## Fernando Mureb

The sequence of pictures bellow show the "making of" of the circuit case.


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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb

The case is not too much noticeable when you look to the Chariot from the front, as you will have opportunity to see soon. Nevertheless, I consider the solution provided by Subtoair (commented some posts above) better than mine. One problem caused by my solution was the necessity to lower the hight of the transversal curtains tube.


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## Fernando Mureb

Now I need to glue the hack, scanner and other things on the canopy and clean it to finish this long and old thread with pictures and a couple of videos. Thank you for being patient.


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## Fernando Mureb

Ok, here is it!! Finally!!


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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb

I didn't put any of the seat belts because I bought the Robinsons figures from Crow's Nest and I have the intention of some day paint those figures and put them seated inside the Chariot. When? Well, I don't like to model figures, so... I will see.


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## Fernando Mureb

I did a lot of research to this project and of the top of my head I can't remember anyone complaining about difficulties to dock the canopy with the doors on the base, keeping the doors free and turning on their axes.

Well, for me it was a nightmare. So, I decided to glue three of them on the canopy using little drops of epoxi. The only door with free movement is the one at the front right side.

My canopy suffered a very slight warpage, however enough to make it difficult its correct docking on the base. I have to constantly force it to take its place, but as show in the penultimate picture of this post, it kept disobeying me.


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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb




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## Fernando Mureb

This last image is a bit of an anticlimax, but it is here just to say that when I picked up the doors to attach them to the canopy, I noticed that I had painted the supporters of the curtains in orange. So, I decided to repaint the holders of the remaining curtains on the base, which I had mistakenly painted in steel.


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## Fernando Mureb

I really appreciate the support and patience of those who followed this thread. I hope that my "detailing-mania" be of some usefulness to someone.

There are many more pictures on my photobucket page at your disposal.

Below are the links for three videos on Youtube.

Thank you all.


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## Alien

Now that is just beautiful... I have no more words.

Alien


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## Radiodugger

Nice! You really _nailed it_ Fernando!

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb

Alien said:


> Now that is just beautiful... I have no more words.
> 
> Alien





Radiodugger said:


> Nice! You really _nailed it_ Fernando!
> 
> Doug


Thank you so much, folks. I am happy that you have liked it. :grin2:


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## Xenodyssey

Lovely, lovely work. Thanks for the whole build thread, watching your progress has been both enjoyable and educational.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for your kind words Xenodyssey! I hope that this work can be helpful for those who don't built the Chariot yet. Very few, I believe.


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## teslabe

WOW Fernando, that turned out GGGGGGreat.......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe, it is very kind of you.


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## subtoair

Man that looks super nice!!! I really like your lighting and paint! So what is your next project? Looking forward to your next build.


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## Fernando Mureb

*A little bit OT question*

Hi Subtoair! 

Thank you for your kind words. I feel proud in receiving this compliment from you. 

I am finishing this kit here:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-sc...1-one-more-polar-lights-c-57d-wip-thread.html

I hope you like it. 

Regards 
Fernando


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## Fernando Mureb

And I am about to begin this one:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/312-model-cars/545113-pl-deluxe-1966-batmobile-wip.html#post6096297


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> And I am about to begin this one:
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/312-model-cars/545113-pl-deluxe-1966-batmobile-wip.html#post6096297


That'll be pretty.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Chris! 

In the last 6 month the economical crisis here in Brazil has reduced my business's activity a lot. 

So, I am doing my best to keep the brain working.


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