# oil level in vintage Tecumseh without dipstick



## Cranky (May 21, 2010)

Hi everyone,

I just purchased on Craigslist an old but well cared for Ariens snowblower, made in 1974, series 22000, powered by the Tecumseh 5hp HS50. This engine does not have a dipstick, but a plastic plug that is installed on the crankcase. The owner manual is very detailed except for the amount of oil. It read :"fill the crankcase with oil". 

Do I fill up to the bottom of the threads of the crankcase (like filling up a car battery, in a way...), or do I fill until the oil is ready to pour out ?

Thanks in advance for your input...


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

That depends...some Tecumseh's had a shoulder mounted dipstick (basically even with the top of the side cover) on the PTO side, about 1/2 way up. The stick was metal but screwed to a plastic plug.

Most likely, you have a plug about 1.5" from the base of the engine. All engines of this style without a dipstick attached to the plug you fill up to the lower edge of the hole, or until it just starts to overflow.


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## Cranky (May 21, 2010)

Thank you for your reply.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Just re-read your post. I suggest you change or at least top-up the auger gearbox with 90w. Given it's a 1974, almost all Ariens used Timken tapered roller bearings in the box. A lot of newer snowblowers use grease, and most today aren't a maintenance item (although it'd be good if you could).

I have an old 10M series Ariens...probably about the same age as yours, works great. Have an Tecumseh OHH engine on it now.


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## Cranky (May 21, 2010)

Thanks PaulR44 for your reply. Yes, I'm old school maintenance as well, and I already ordered the gear oil (Ariens part # 0006000), which also works for the 10000 series. When looking at the size of today's gearbox, the decades old machines are worth keeping running, because the philosophy of back then made a lot of sense. My snow blower is 100% original except for a carburator replacement in the early 90's, came with all owners manuals and extra maintenance parts, and maintenance/repairs paperwork. $ 130.00, which is a fair price for both parties I believe. I did a total of 12 driveways last Tuesday and the Tecumseh never stall once. Now I'm looking at paint for a little TLC during the Spring. If you have any good suggestions for that (both orange and off-white), let me know...

Thanks again


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Cranky, while I give you credit for ordering Ariens gear lube, standard automotive rear-end lube (90W or 80W-140) would work fine. Automotive gear lube has to meet high-pressure standards, and one would think a snowblower auger box wouldn't come near those pressures. Can't go wrong using OEM. We now stock (and use in the shop) Kawasaki engine oil as it has zinc in it, while many automotive engine oils today have minimal amounts. Flat tappet engines such as most in the OPE industry need the extra zinc. Lucas makes such an oil for racecar / performance / hot-rod engines.

One thing about those older units running "forever" is that doesn't help the economy or the company that made it (when will you need a new one?), so "built-in obsolescence" has become the corporate axiom. Typically the box-store units are built to last in line the what's called the durable goods index, which often sits around 4 to 6 yrs. It's become a disposable nation for the average consumer. Not so for gearheads like us! We RE-PURPOSE and REBUILD things LOL. After all, parts sales are important too!

Suggestions...hmm...lube the hex shaft bearings if you can in the self-propel system, clean & grease the hex shaft (white or thin grease, don't want it thickening up too much in the cold). Keep a few pairs of auger shear pins on hand, watch out for newspapers and the like. DO use a newer type of fuel stabilizer that addresses the alcohol issue, preferrably run it dry in the spring. Don't run with scissors. Have I covered it all? OH, and this is important, don't let your son-in-law or neighbor borrow it unless you want to have more repairs on your hands (judging from what our customers tell us LOL).


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

I personally have my in-laws run with scissors as often as i can. They always seem to bring them back working like new


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## Cranky (May 21, 2010)

Thanks PaulR44 for all the good information. One more question if I may : the mechanical primer : a first for me, as I always dealt with a bulb before. I'm just wondering how this old type of primer works. Thanks to the owner's manual, I was able to start it right (unlike the previous guy who used starting fluid - something I would never do). Does the effect of choking completely the intake with the primer and pull the starting cord slowly draws fuel from the carburetor bowl to the venturi? I searched the net for an answer, but couldn't find anything about it. Thanks in advance...


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

I have a 1973 Tecumseh 6 hp mounted on a Toro snow blower with the same primer setup.I close the choke,push in the mechanical primer and slowly pull the recoil for two revolutions with the ignition key "OFF".I then turn the key to "ON" with the choke still closed,and it always starts on the first pull.By blocking the carb intake,the suction on the intake stroke pulls fuel from the carb into the engine. Hope this helps.


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## Cranky (May 21, 2010)

Thanks guys for all the info


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