# Setting Nails....



## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

So, I notices that when I nailed my track down (used 3/4" #17 flat head nails) they don't quite sit flush with the track. Is there a way to set them?

I've read you can use a soldering iron to pop the track up to head of the nail. If I do this method will I be able to remove the nails again?

Also, can anyone recommend a cheap power supply? I'm getting tired of using wall warts.


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Search eBay for "Switching" power supplies. They come in a variety of voltages and current and range in cost from $20 - $50.


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Here are links to other threads on the topic:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=311610
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=294149
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=283949
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=278075


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

The heads aren't that big. But they are big enough to interfere with the open wheel Indy cars. I was told not to use finishing nails. Now I'm thinking of taking them out and using finishing nails.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

I just hate the idea of having to pull all these nails out but it sucks not being able to use my open wheels because they catch on the nail heads. I've tried using a punch to "set" them but they don't move any further down into the track due to the flat heads. 

And yeah, the no edit button thing completely sucks.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I depends on how fast you want the track to set.
I would think RTV silicone would be better. You have time to move it if you have to.
Hot glue may start setting before you get the track together, and may not hold.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Hot melt glue gives you about 5-10 seconds to position the track. It might be difficult to remove the track if you ever want to change up the layout, or do repairs. There is also a slight possibility of it damaging the track should you pull it back up, depending on what the table surface is. I would try a couple dud 9" curves first to see what happens... Silicone is more than likely the better choice.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

I'll pick up a few tubes of silicone and try that this weekend.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

You might want to find the thread that discusses a method of attaching the track from below. I believe Rolls started the thread, but I don't remember if he ever successfully used it.

Joe


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

Thanks Joe, I'm gonna search for that thread now.


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

I did something like this on many of the long straightaway sections of my track to allow expansion and contraction. Also in between pieces. Works pretty good.


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

I secured my 6 lane Tomy layout with #1 x 1/2 countersunk slot head screws. 
The track holes were countersunk w/a 1/32nd bit in a pin vise
to a depth of 1/32".
The holes were drilled into table surface & screw installed. Heads can be touched up w/black marker.
The screws can be adjusted as needed for track adjustment & easily removed for replacement.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

Dyno, 

That's an even better idea. I'm going to pick up screws and a bit. I don't like these nails I used. I'm going to screw the track down this weekend.


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

The screws can be tedious, but I feel the brads lift thru the track too easily.
I would suggest only securing after the track pcs. are installed to your satisfaction for layout adjustments & spacing. The screws were only available slotted, too small for Philips head. I drilled all holes manually, the bits are too small for Dremel power. That layout used just under 600 screws.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Grandcheapskate said:


> You might want to find the thread that discusses a method of attaching the track from below. I believe Rolls started the thread, but I don't remember if he ever successfully used it.
> 
> Joe



Thanks, Joe. Sorry all, I was away while this thread was unfolding. Here's the thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=289348

It's a good thread, no matter what you end up doing, bcs lots of experienced HTers share viewpoints on attaching track to tables.

As an (overdue) update, my whole track is now secured this way. Nothing shows from above and no countersinking. Easy to disassemble and reassemble, too. I've been pretty happy with it. :thumbsup:

Rolls


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

WOW!! That is quite an impressive track.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Those Robertson screws sound like a great idea, Hornet.




The middle curve, a.k.a. the pretzel, at one time was very shaky and supported with only stacks of paper cups. Nowadays, though, it's rock solid. If you look closely you can see one or two of the four 1x4's in the back part of the pretzel that provide some of the support. The rest is from a small forest of 1" round verticals, which are used up front to provide good visibility and they seem to give the track a "lighter" feel, because you can see more. 

The key for strength is that all those supports go down through the surface of the table and they're anchored into the table frame below. 



It's an l-girder type table, so there are 1x4 x-members every 15" giving lots of good anchor points.







By adjusting the exact height of the individual upright "broomsticks" I've been able to do a lot of adjusting of corners, inclines and clearances for fine tuning the driving challenges. Of course, OTOH, there's such a thing as too much adjustability, ya know?? :freak:










I wanted it to be easy to wipe down, which drove me to make everything sturdy.

Have fun!

Rolls


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)




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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

edit.


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

Check your local hobby shop and look for Atlas Track Nails item#2540. These nails have slightly rounded tops while the edges stay nice and flush to the track. I never had a problem with tires clipping the tops, they would just slide over them without any hang up.

I would set a nail at every other hole on the track and they always came out without breaking the track. 




























I no longer use nails as #4 screws are much easier to work with. I do use the nails for attaching my homemade guardrails to the wooden posts.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

I have a bunch of those Atlas nails I've used on my trains and looked at them when I was building the track but didn't even think about using them at the time.


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## 440 (Feb 23, 2008)

So, I pulled my entire track apart and reinstalled it will the smaller N scale track nails. What a difference the smaller nails make. None of my cars hang up on the nails. Thanks for the suggestions.


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