# Removing glass from a Mangusta



## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

OK, so I have a good Mangusta body with no glass and a modified Mangusta body with good glass. The window frames look really fragile so I am hesitant to pry too hard to get the glass out. Also the window frames are flush with the glass so I can't even get anything in between them w/o taking a chance on cracking the frames.

Any suggestions will be welcomed.

Thanks,
Marty
Marysville, OH


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## fuddmiester (Dec 26, 2003)

Are they held in with the little melted pegs in the roof?


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

No, there is no room for them.





Marty
Marysville, OH


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## fuddmiester (Dec 26, 2003)

Well for starters.... can't you just cut the donor body and snap the glass into the new one?


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*That's a tricky one Marty.*

Not sure if there's a liquid to soak it in that *will NOT *etch or cloud that nice clear glass. I *would not* tempt fate going that route. I would not soak it in anything stronger than warm water. That Mango bod has a lot of glass showing... any damage you do will be extremely visible and pretty much defeat the purpose of switching it into the better body. 

Do you care what happens to or have plans for the porked one that now has the glass in it? You could always go the way Fudd suggests and do a body-ectomy.... but VERY slowly, and methodically with a dremel... and I'd tape the panels to (hopefully) avoid any unintended oopsies.


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

With model cars I have soaked it in Castrol GTX purple stuff to remove paint and it loosened the glue on some parts. The problem is there is a very small window of time between when the glue loosens and when it starts to reattach to the plastic. I have also put the model in a baggie with a small amount of water and then into the freezer overnight. Take it out the next day and let it warm up. The glue and the plastic expand and contract at different rates so the glue loosens itself. This works sometimes.

I was hoping someone had a different solution to try.

I would like to keep the donor body in as good a shape as possible.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

if the window is NOT glued in, I would think that pressing both side window sections and the rear window section simultaneously would extract the window. I'll have to look in my junk box for one with windows still in it.


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

Oh, it's definately glued in. When I push on the windows, the window frames will bend.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

I recently removed a glass from a Cigar-box version and it was held in place front to rear and side to side by a tiny overlap of glass and body. I would assume it's the same on the T-Jet version. Like Al, I need to go check mine out. It looks like your's is glued and there's not much strength in those window posts. I think I've seen more damaged than intact over the years. I'm not much help here, but I do want to try your freezer method on a couple of 1/32 scale bodies I have with some glued on extras. Thanks for posting that. Another new way to try and fix the exorbitant use of glue from the 60's...of which (at a much younger age) I am also guilty of.:freak:

-Paul


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## SplitPoster (May 16, 2006)

Hard to get Mangusta "glass" out of the cut body I had. Easy to scratch up

Just a suggestion. If you do mess up the "glass" a little getting it out, taking glue off, or if there are hazy parts, Micromesh products do wonders getting it clear again. Cheaper in woodworking shops than hobby shops, in sheets or pads, use it wet or dry. Really just very fine emory cloth, work your way through 4000-6000-8000-12,000 grit, if you can call it grit at that point. You can just about de-haze any "window" with it, get rid of all those fine scratches. And it's a lot easier to work with out of the car.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

You can get new glass for it on epay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeTomaso-Mangusta-Windshield-New-/200624298028

Kinda pricey though...


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Or a whole nuther car...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-aur...190628515382?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item2c62584e36

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aurora-Ford...280806088854?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item416158e096


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

NTxSlotCars said:


> You can get new glass for it on epay...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeTomaso-Mangusta-Windshield-New-/200624298028
> 
> Kinda pricey though...


:jest:


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Or a whole nuther car...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-aurora-model-motoring-mangusta-slot-car-/190628515382?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item2c62584e36
> 
> ...


Oboy, another Mangusta to get the glass out of!

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*A dab would have done ya*

Glues and re-glues are one of the worst parts of our hobby. Unless your dealing with a no volital or low volital glue it's not whether or not your boned; it's more like to what degree your pooch is screwed when high volital glues are (over) used.

Like Reeses, you'll have chocolate in your peanut butter, and peanut butter in your chocolate. After seperation material is usually swapped from piece to piece unless the bond was originally poor to begin with. In the event that a bond was ridiculously over slobbered your going to have to make the choice. I generally make the choice early. Am I saving the body or the glass? 

The odds are heavily stacked in the favor of destroying both pieces if you dont. That uber bond is as stubborn as a pine knot crossed with a jack ass; where everything around it will splinter, shred, and buck your tooling, until your left with a mutilated mess and a poked finger. 

As the Mangusta has a flimsey geen house roof and a you need the glass...well....uh....As much as we dont want to, I'd go for the glass and build a convertible/spyder out of the donor. :thumbsup: Yeah! Dat's it! :tongue:

Please note my signature below.


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

I have freeze/warm cycled it twice. There is one stubborn corner that won't let go!! I also found out the adhesive oozed up around the frame in a couple spots. I just cleaned the grooves out with an X-Acto knife. I'm in no hurry so I will just take my time.

I do remember a couple models that did not react to the freeze/warm method. I ended up selling those projects and let someone else worry about it.

I wish I knew what adhesive was used. It did not frost the glass, but REALLY bonded the two surface together. When I put glass back in, I always use the glue made for such projects.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

*No mas!!*

OK, I give up. The glue wins!



The right front A post and the rear center posts would not let loose!!

He tried, but couldn't it! He tried couldn't do it!

Marty


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

well Marty. it is time to heed Mr Bill Halls advice and maybe seek a little more of his countenance !


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Were the wheel wells porked out on that body anyways? At least you got the glass out fairly clean. Like Bill says... you can't save 'em all!!


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Were the wheel wells porked out on that body anyways? At least you got the glass out fairly clean. Like Bill says... you can't save 'em all!!


Yeah, it looks like they had a Hot Rod chassis under it. Both front and rear were chopped (not cut, not sanded, not filed) out.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Clean and no paint... good goop material!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Slow and cool*

Because of the various styles of T-jet windshields and they're different mountings there's a few variables; but the clean up is always pretty much the same. Nuther Dave mentioned masking off the panes...probably the first thing I'd do! I'd hobby knife some duct tape squares and plaster the individual panes. 

Unless your as cool as the other side of the pillow, I'd avoid sticking the dremel into those recesses to try and clean them out. If you so choose, I'd use the cut off disc to get it close using a vertical approach. I would most definately avoid plunging any kind of burr or barrel into those grooves. The odds of catching and edge go way up... and if you do....you'll shoot yer eye out! :freak: 

In ALL cases, the dremel must be applied patiently so that you dont continue to fuse the two materials together. Low speed if you got it, stick and move....blip breath blip breath blip breath blip and so on. Let each hit cool so's not to melt it. Heat's heat, whether it's chemically fused with glue, or mechanically overheated and re-fused cuz yer impatient. 

For small areas like Marty has shown, I prefer the hobby knife and or the saw blade for the exacto handle. Then use a file to clean up the remainder afterwords. Whether you choose the dremel or the saw; it's best to stop short and clean the final bit away with a fine file. This way there wont be much to touch up if your going to do the full polish and repair of the tool marks. They can be washed or disguised by damp mopping some testors on the afflicted area if your not super picky.

It has been my observation that the slot gods always approve of excercising caution when working with windshield inserts. They sure punish me every time I dont... D'Oh!


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

I briefly, VERY briefly, considered a dremel. I am very familiar with a slip of the bit. You get those really kool "chatter" marks across the most visible area of whatever you are working on.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

That body still looks very savable to me....











_throwing a hail-Mary bomb from my armchair._


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I dread the day those chatter continue across my fingers!! :freak:


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

NTxSlotCars said:


> That body still looks very savable to me....
> 
> _throwing a hail-Mary bomb from my armchair._


That is why I tried so hard to save the window frames. It is probaly still saveable, just more w..., w...., wo..., you know what I mean.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

*If I would have waited 1 more day.......*

I would have seen this auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290659232466?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

And yes, I won it.

Marty
Marysville, OH


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Great score!!!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Aint that just the way it goes!


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

*Tip for glass residue*

Marty,

I often run into another issue, the glass has been removed but a chunk of the glass has been left behind and welded to the inside top of the car. Seems common with Camaros and Firebirds. Below is a before picture. 










I've screwed up window posts trying to remove these chunks with various metal objects.

Using the same testors you use for "Bill's goop" (I believe that term is trademarked) will soften the glass that was left behind and you can use your rounded xacto blade to remove the glass in layers until you get down to the body. Then you have a nice flat surface for new glass.

I'm sure Bill has this in the Model Murdering thread but it's a technique I've only started using.

Tom


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