# The Seaview,back to the future.



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

With winter coming on, I needed a new build to keep me busy the next few cold months. I just got done last winter building the Moebius Chariot,complete with RC equipment etc. The year before was the Seaview project up grading the Moebous 4 windrow submarine. Scratching my head and thinking about what I have not done was the eight windrow Seaview. In my mind this was the first (Giant) sub of Voyage.The 8 windrow Seaview sub just looked bigger than than the 4 windrow. I have to say the newer 4 windrow sub was really sleeker than the 8 windrow,but still the 8 windrow model had that bigger (big screen look) and was very sleek to. Looking at my old 4 windrow plug of the 4 window model that I built of the 17 footer a few years back,that I made a mold from. I decided to take the 17 footer plug.and keeping the same sleek angle of the nose,and make a 8 windrow plug on which I can cast a new model from. So everyone please bear with me on this project as I am getting slower with age (Ha) I will try and post a few pictures,but I don,t know on how this will work,because my password keeps leaving when I go to Photoshop. Anyway I will try and give it a shot! Talk to you guys later.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

<a href="http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/seatoair/media/IMG_1210_zpsbertvxhy.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a609/seatoair/IMG_1210_zpsbertvxhy.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1210_zpsbertvxhy.jpg"/></a>


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Some thing did not work!


----------



## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

^^ Yeah, too much information in that URL. Try this link.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks I will give that a try!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks I think I got it?


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Okey!! I hope that it keeps working! Anyway that is the 4 windrow plug from a couple of years ago.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

First thing is to fill in the windrow areas with body filler. They were then sanded smooth with the hull .


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Once it was primed I roughly drew in some windrows to see what it was looking like.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Heh, another 8 window conversion! I just finished mine on the other thread. If you need any advice, just ask, but if you have a plan all set in place, I'll just watch. Good Luck!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A lot of work has to be done,like removing the two sonar domes,shaping the head were the domes were.and of course a new complete bottom has to be made.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

That is what got me interested, was watching your build the last few months Chrisisall. Great work!!! Thanks for offering the help,I might need some.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

After looking at the 8 windrow Seaview,I saw were I had to build up the front of the fins. That toke a lot of body filler,more than I thought! Man what did I get my self into!!!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

My little buddy (Dallas) setting in the easy chair with this look on his face saying are you sure you know on what you doing?


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The front headlight had to be removed,along with sanding back the front fins.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

After the nose was primed it started to look a little better. I wanted to keep the sleek look of the 17 foot nose. The windrows are to be changed later on. The bottom of the front fins are still thick. This will give a idea of what the fox prop shop had to do to make the 4 windrow Seaview


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

subtoair said:


> That is what got me interested, was watching your build the last few months Chrisisall. Great work!!! Thanks for offering the help, *I might need some*.


Oh, I really don't think you will- you seem to be a _master_ modeler from what I can see!:thumbsup:
I'll be following this build like a Hawke.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Look no ears! or domes. I carefully sanded down the sonar domes flush with the sides of the hull. I did not want to sand anymore material then needed (or so I thought.) I needed to sand down the sides more as the 4 windrow Seaview had a build up of material around the domes. This was sanded away so the hull was a little thinner to match the 8 windrow version,as seen on the 17 footer surface shots. The nose was not much wider than the main hull,just on the bottom is were the nose widen out.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The domes in red scratch filler.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Question: why not just work on an 8 window big Moebius (looks like you have one in the background)?


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The bottom of the flying sub was the hardest part to build, A lot of sanding and filling was needed. Just when I thought that I had it made,more sanding was needed to cut this area down. Almost two weeks of work went into this bottom half.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Next The keel or skeg was made and glued to the bottom of the hull.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Front view shows the contours of the bottom of the nose getting a little closer to the design. This picture was taken a couple of weeks back.Since then the bottom was sanded a lot more. Later pictures will be coming soon.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Getting closer!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Wow!!!!


----------



## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Really nicely done!
Alien


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Fantastic job!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Can I assume you are extending the crest of the deck forward by an inch or so?


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I hope everyone had a good holiday! I ate way to much turkey,now time to go on a diet (Ha) I just want to thank everyone for the nice words on this build. I have not done much work on the model because of this holiday. I will have to add a small section to deck to make it longer. I will try and get back to the Seaview this coming week,I will then post a few more pictures of the project.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Who will finish their big 8 window Seaview first, you or me? I'm not lighting, will you be?


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Question: why not just work on an 8 window big Moebius (looks like you have one in the background)?


Great job, man!

I'd like to 2nd Chris' question. Why not just 'fix' the 8 window version that you have?

Did you just want a bigger challenge and chose to alter the 4-window, or is there something better about the 4-window kit than the 8-window kit that justified the extra work?

Just curious...

Tom


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

It was a lot easier for me to grind the old plug down with the body filler than the thin fiberglass,on which I would have to back fill with body filler anyway. The 4 windrow Seaview plug that I build a few years back,had the body lengthen one and a half inches.Also the body was widen some what,for that larger look. The Moebius 8 windrow Seaview is the closest To the 8 1/2 underwater model.I just used the plug that was molded from the 17 foot seaview,with the sleeker nose. The 8 1/2 Seaview nose was a little blunter, in my mind,like the Moebius model.But it still looks good!! The length looks about right also. I like the Moebius 8 windrow Seaview better than the 4 windrow model. A lot more accurate. Since The last pictures that I took a week back the windrows have been changed a little,and the front search light cage has been made.I took some new pictures a while back,but got sick for 5 days.Getting better now,and will post more pictures soon.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Get better soon! We're eager for more pix!!!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Well I will try and post a few of the pictures that I took a couple of weeks ago. Since I took these pictures the windrows have been clean up, and look a lot better now. The first picture show the side profile of the 17 foot Seaview in the mine field,with the angle of my model. Getting closer!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Absolutely awesome!!!!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

For the cage base plate,I cut the plate out of a plastic sheet. After I cut and shaped the plate I glued it in place. Next a brass tube was made for the search light housing. This tube was then glued into place and carefully aligned.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Tube installed into plug.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Love the detail on the nose! Nice 'crest' that's barely visible!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The brass front search light guard,or cage was made from .032 brass rod and silver soldered together. Don,t get me wrong but it toke a lot of time and work to make this little pain in the butt piece. But after around the fourth time I was getting a little better at it.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

subtoair said:


> The brass front search light guard,or cage was made from .032 brass rod and silver soldered together. Don,t get me wrong but it toke a lot of time and work to make this little pain in the butt piece. But after around the fourth time I was getting a little better at it.


*wishing I had your skill set*:grin2:


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Here is how it looks installed on the plug. Since I toke these pictures a couple of weeks ago a lot has been done. Since then I have made a mold from this plug, to cast a complete new Seaview. I will then post new pictures in the coming days. Take care every one. 
Dennis


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

subtoair said:


> Here is how it looks installed on the plug.


Kinda of a shame to have to paint it -- it looks GREAT as it is!

Tom


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Kinda of a shame to have to paint it -- it looks GREAT as it is!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Agreed!
I'm wanting to know how the windows will be installed/fabricated! 
*Edge of seat*


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Finally getting back to this project. A lot has been done over the last few weeks,on the Seaview. I toke pictures of the molding process with my old camera,only to find it it started to give me problems with keeping pictures on the chip. So I lost some of the pictures. Going to give it a try tonight to see if this chip works. The picture that I am posting is the mold that I built a while back.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Well I see that it worked this time. The two molds are the 4 windrow Seaview that I built a couple of years ago,and the new 8 windrow model that I just built.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The molded hull that came out of the new mold. This kit is made from epoxy fiberglass. The parts come out of the mold smooth like glass.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new hull or body comes out of the mold as a one piece,no seams to fill.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

subtoair said:


> The new hull or body comes out of the mold as a one piece,no seams to fill.


And.... I can buy one from you when & how much---?:grin2:


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The top deck and sail have to be molded yet.These are just the plugs in gray primer. I just sat them on top of the new body to see what I have to change before they are molded.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

*impressed beyond wor..wo.. wur.. words.*


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

That's really impressive!

Since I love to learn 'process', I have to ask, is that poured resin or brushed on and then glas fibre laid on, then the molds bolted together to cure?

the mold parting lines seem invisible.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks for the kind words guys! The molding process is brushed on epoxy gelcote,then fiberglass cloth with resin is laid over the gelcote. Then bolted together. I had taken all the pictures of this progress but lost them. I made a new submarine TS-1 or test sub one kit a few months back,to go with the same scale as the Moebius Seaview. This sub was used in voyage 3 and 4 season. One show it was used in was called (monsters web) It is 1/128 scale to go with the moebius Seaview.I plan on doing a complete build article soon. This is covered with pictures to show the fiberglass process. I think the readers will enjoy this. I do make a few kits of the Seaview and TS-1 if anyone is interested. I retired this year but will make a few on the side. Making models keep me young (Ha)


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Just read through this whole thread. 
Your work is nothing short of brilliant on this. 
Really fantastic stuff!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

subtoair said:


> I do make a few kits of the Seaview and TS-1 if anyone is interested. I retired this year but will make a few on the side. Making models keep me young (Ha)


A kit of THIS would be appreciated by me (and no doubt a couple more too), and money is NO OBJECT (as long as I can afford it)!:grin2:


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Hi I hope everybody had a great holiday! My son gave me a 1/32 Moebius flying sub kit. I can,t wait to start that project. As far as the Seaview I decided to make the front bottom of the fin area removable. If I needed to get into the nose interior later on gluing it together would not work. To solve this problem I installed strong magnets,to hold the bottom of the fin area to the front of the nose. Gel cote was applied to seal any seams. Toke a lot of time and labor to do it but was worth it. Here are a few pictures.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I though that I will post a couple more pictures,before turning in for the night. One problem with the two piece front nose was the search light cage. If I was to remove the bottom nose piece the search light cage would have to be removed every time. This is were I got the idea to cut out the lower cage bracket and glue it to the top of the nose piece. This way the search light with the cage can stay with the top nose piece. This seemed to work good. Now I can remove the bottom fin area with out doing damage to the cage.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Bottom of fin housing installed.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I know it's just the way the gelcoat works but man, I really really like that finish. There's something tactile about it, like you can FEEL it by just LOOKING at it. 

I know that makes no sense whatsoever but so what.


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

subtoair said:


>


Even in it's unfinished and imperfect condition, that's a "beauty shot" right there.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks guys! I am working on the top deck now.I made a complete new deck from a rubber mold that I had. Send pictures soon.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

subtoair said:


> Thanks guys! I am working on the top deck now.I made a complete new deck from a rubber mold that I had. Send pictures soon.


Any idea how much a kit would be? No rush though...:grin2:


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I will know more on the price after I get the complete kit done. I really appreciate your interest on this model. I have been working on the top deck, making new changes as I work on it. Its taking longer than I thought, Getting it done slow but sure. Hope to have pictures soon.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> And.... I can buy one from you when & how much---?:grin2:


DITTO! :smile2:


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Making a new fiberglass deck was not that hard to make.I all ready had a new rubber mold made from the 4 windrow Seaview that i made a few years back. First a coat of epoxy gel coat was brushed in the mold,then two layers of 6 oz fiberglass cloth was layed over the gel coat. then the part was left in the mold for two days, with heat to make a strong part. all of the fiberglass parts are done the same way. It takes more time and work to make a fiberglass model,than a plastic model in a box. and that is why the a fiberglass kit is higher priced. it takes a lot more time and work. After the part is removed from the mold all flash is removed with a hand sanding block,or if one is lucky a large electric sander on a stand. All parts are then washed to remove the fiberglass dust.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The deck turned out nice. But after I looked at the ballast vents they looked like they could have a more of a slant to them.when compared to pictures,and out takes on the videos. This picture shows the stock angle of the vents.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Looks great to ME!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Being real fussy and kind of nuts,I decided to make a template to slant the vents more. The stock vents are at a 75 degree angle.The template that I made was made at a 70 degree angle. It don,t sound like much but did make a difference when viewing the deck from the side. The template was placed over the old vents after they were filled with gel cote and sanded smooth. I marked the new slot holes.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

After the vents were drilled out,they were cleaned out with small hand files.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The rear ballast vents were a whole different story. A real pain in the butt! I will post about this a little later.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

subtoair said:


>


You perfectionist!:grin2:


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The rear ballast vents to my eyes were set higher on side of the deck than the front vents. So I brought all the vents down 3/16 of a inch.Gel cote was used to fill all the vents again. Using the new template they were all marked on the side of the deck. I went by pictures that I had on hand, and videos. They were all cut out by using drill bits and small files. I wanted this deck to be as close to the real 17 foot model as possible. If I did sell a few kits I would use this deck to make a new mold.There are only a few pictures of the rear deck vents,so I will post them.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

To hold the deck down I used magnets. Here is the front.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The back,this system seem to work real good.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I missed one step,and that was how the rear fins were made. A mold was made and fiberglass and carbon fiber was use to make the rear fins.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Zen & The Art Of Sub Making! I'm lovin' it!!!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I wondered about the fins. They look beautiful of course but I can see problems if someone wants to put working lights back there.

I think there's a way to do that, lay in a thin 'trench' inside the fin, but it would require an additional mold part laid in (to create a hollow track from the tip to someplace that ends up 'inside' the sub) before the final coat was laid on. And maybe the fins are too thin for anything like that. 

Or maybe there's better ways to run thin wire. I r not a lighting genius.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> I wondered about the fins. They look beautiful of course but I can see problems if someone wants to put working lights back there.
> 
> I think there's a way to do that, lay in a thin 'trench' inside the fin, but it would require an additional mold part laid in (to create a hollow track from the tip to someplace that ends up 'inside' the sub) before the final coat was laid on. And maybe the fins are too thin for anything like that.
> 
> Or maybe there's better ways to run thin wire. I r not a lighting genius.


The 1/128 Moebius kits have a 'trench' between the halves...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> The 1/128 Moebius kits have a 'trench' between the halves...


Sure, but the kit fins are two piece, right? This fiberglas build molds the tail fins as a complete unit (or so it looks to me) so any wiring channels would have to be embedded during the laying of the 'glas' (carbon fiber if I'm understanding correctly) and before the molds are clamped together. In other words, the wire path has to be actually built into the part.

If this were being done on a 3D printer that's simplicity itself to do. (that's one of the things that excites me so much about the potential of 3D printing) Old school molding like this, it's gonna take some figuring. 

Depending on the thickness of the fin, I'm imagining something like a piece of piano wire bent to whatever shape is best for a tunnel...no. wait. it has to be able to be removed from the part. damn. It needs to be a straight line shot from the light mount at the top of the fin to someplace that will end up inside the sub. Then just slather grease or mold release on it, lay on the resin and carbon, and pull it out when cured. 

I guess the other way would be to just embed a paired wire with plenty of ends sticking out both ways to be trimmed and soldered by the customer. Or cut off completely if lighting is not desired. 

But knowing the people who love the Seaview, many will want to light it. I think considering this is useful.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

[The] Nature [of determined modelers] finds a way...


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

You guys are correct on putting lights in the rear fins if they were the stock thickness of the Moebius fins. I thickened the root of the fins.and the fins them self,s like on the real 17 foot model. This allowed plenty of room for the wiring and led,s I have the holes drilled into the top of the rear of the fin,s but forgot to take pictures of that. Fiberglass and carbon fiber was layed up in the mold,s to make a light weight unit. I will take a few pictures of the rear tail section in a few day,s This has been a fun build,but if it was not for mold,s that I had on hand from the 4 windrow model this build would take to much time. It is great to see a lot of Seaview fan.s that are still out there,that love this sub!


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> [The] Nature [of determined modelers] finds a way...


Well, of course. I'm sure some of our insanely skilled lighting meisters could figure out a way to light the fin tips no matter what.

I guess in my buttinski way I'm just putting forth the idea that if it's possible to build in a way to make the lighting easier, it will be appreciated by those that buy the parts (if it is decided to sell them of course). 

I'm sure there are some on the R/C sub community that would want a crack at this as well. I don't know anywhere near enough about the problems and issues with working model subs to even offer a single suggestion. 

(I will say, there are people out there that are completely insane and make just about ANYTHING into a working sub. I'm sure you've seen some of the Enterprise builds that cruise around in a pool...)


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Up watching tv,and not really tired,so I thought I post a few pictures. These are not the most exciting but it will show what I did work on a few weeks back. For some reason the hatches looked to big for me. Back to the drawing board. I used a picture of the hatches that were used on the 17 foot Seaview. After looking thru my plastic junk box,I found a dome part used on my 1/16 scale king tiger tank that looked a lot more closer to the real hatches. Adding the rear hing area and hatch handles took the most time.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The old hatch.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new hatch!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Taking a dremel tool the old hatches were grind off.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Primer was sprayed on the deck to make sure the area was level before the hatches were glued into place.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Hatches installed.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

With the sail finished,a rubber mold was made to cast new fiberglass sails.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

KEEP going dude!!!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks man! I am trying. The sonar doom was next to be scratch build.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new sonar dome made from a rubber mold.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

dome installed!


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Trying to get as close to the picture as possible.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Must extend the deck...


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Well, that picture is physically touching the model, I don't think you can get much closer. 

Man, I realize this is completely stupid but for some reason I really really love the look of that gel coat resin surface. I can't explain why, it's surely not in any way a 'screen accurate' color or finish at this point but it looks so neat. Maybe it reminds me of those old hand-carved mahogany wood aircraft models made by aerospace manufacturers that were polished to within an inch of their life. I just dunno why I like it so much.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The shine comes from the Gel cote,I been real happy with the fiberglass supplies from BJB Enterprises in California,great products! Thanks for the nice complements!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Must....extend.....the deck.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

You are right it should be extended, I want to make a mold from the current deck first before I make it longer.


----------



## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

subtoair said:


> You are right it should be extended, I want to make a mold from the current deck first before I make it longer.


I think this is the right thing to do. Even if the current deck is shorter, it looks good. Some people may even prefer it. I think it's always better to have options.

But I have been told I am a crazy person, so take that into consideration.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> I think this is the right thing to do. Even if the current deck is shorter, it looks good. Some people may even prefer it. I think it's always better to have options.
> 
> But I have been told I am a crazy person, so take that into consideration.


As I learned the hard way with my small Moebius Seaview conversion, the four window is longer, and if the deck is not lengthened it ruins the entire look.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I will have to study this more on how to make the deck longer. I was thinking of making a add on longer tip for the front of the deck, or cutting the deck in half, and putting a length needed to extend it. On the real 17 foot model,they made the nose longer,this of course made the deck shorter. I guess I really don,t mind the look of the deck as it is,I think it makes the boat look a little more sleeker. But if a person want,s to make the sub look like the real prop, it will need a longer deck. So I will offer both both the shorter,and longer deck.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I am going back a few steps to show how the two rear tubes were applied to the stern of the boat. I all ready had the tube molds made a few year,s back from the 4 windrow Seaview that I built.So it was just a matter of getting the mold,s out and making new tubes from them. The water intake holes are cut out like in the pictures.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The tubes were carefully aligned level with the hull,then tacked in place. When everything was looking even and straight,5 minute epoxy glue was applied to the seams.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

New 4 detailed water intakes were made from rubber a mold. These water intakes do really work,as water does flow thru the intakes. These were cast from resin.


----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




----------

