# Anigrand Star Destroyer 1/2256



## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

*Anigrand Star Destroyer 1/2256 by dtssyst FINISHED!*

*Anigrand Star Destroyer 1/2256*

This is a commission build. 

Photo 1... Parts
Instructions from Anigrand Page 1
Instructions from Anigrand Page 2


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

That is one sweeeet ride.
Your going to "pimp my ride"...what a great way to make some funds and have fun too.
:hat:


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

"Pimp my Ride" :lol:

I will really enjoy building this kit. :hat: 
This is my first commission build for someone that is paying. I really want to do justice on this. The person I am building this for purchased some other built up kits from me in the past. The only difference is that those kits where built to my preference. This will be built to his.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

The original TR3-B Flying Triangle.
The opening sequence, where it went on and on and on, till you thought, OMG what a huge craft.... I can see you doing the pass while lying on the bed.
:wave:


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

I Want!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Yeah, I agree, it's a beautiful casting. 

I look forward to seeing what sort of "internal support structure" you devise.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Congrats! You will have a ball building it. It is such a great kit. Have fun drilling the windows. I did 800 in mine.:thumbsup:

The only hard part about lighting with fiber optics is drilling the windows in the trench area. Not only do you have to drill thru the trench itself but the raised back plate that the trench pieces get glued to. I'm doing my trench lighting in "clumps" if you will. I cut out sections in the back plate for the fiber optics.

Here's a tip too. If you lay the lower hull down, put some supports under the edges. If you just lay it down it will start to flatten out.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Robiwan: I've been following your build via the link you provided previously. Great stuff.

I wonder if you might elaborate re: the window drilling process. I've drilled portals before, but never anything near 800! What gauge of drill-bit and fiberoptic lead are you using? Are you using a motorized drill, or are you drilling manually?

Also, what kind of "supports" did you put under the lower edges? Given the tendency of resin to sag over time, this is one area I'm particularly concerned about. And additional tips you may wish to provide would be greatly appreciated.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

^^Did you finally receive your kit?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Yeah, and it was worth the wait. 

It's a beautifully grown and cast model, but there are some preliminary issues to work out, i.e. interior reinforcement, display stand mount, lighting, etc.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Carson, I saw on the RPF that you finally got one! Congrats!

For my windows I used .75mm optic and drill bits. It may sound a bit big but anything smaller, with that many windows to drill, I would have been snapping a lot of bits. On the superstructure I did 500 windows and 300 in the trenches. I am using my corded Dremel to do the dirty work.

Right now the model sits on a cardboard box, my make shift work stand, with cutouts that match the countour of the hull. Whne I am not working on it I will use clamps to clamp the upper and lower hulls together. This prevents any unwanted sagging. As you know the hulls are large flat panels glued at angles. The panels are not real thick but they do weigh a bit.

Once the ship is done and glued together I don't think there will be an issue of it flattening out. But I do think the weight of the superstructure and the bridge/neck needs some extra support from underneath. Inner supprts will be made froma few laminated sheets of foam core board. These don't need to be made of a super heavy material for support, just enough strength to resist any downward pressure from the hull above.

I will be updating my build shortly. The old body here has been under the weather the last few weeks.


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

I didn't do any internal support from mine--everything seems very rigid and there is very little wiggle room once you glue everything in place.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Thanks, Robiwan. 

Under the circumstances .75mm sounds about right. 

Guess I'd better lay on a supply of fiber-optic and drill-bits. 

I look forward to further photo updates once you're feeling up to it.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

jbond said:


> I didn't do any internal support from mine--everything seems very rigid and there is very little wiggle room once you glue everything in place.


And you are probably right! I would rather over do it and have peace of mind though. Mine did warp a bit from just sitting on the table. That's why i'm going to go with some internal support.

I got all my FO from the fiber optic store. Great people to do buisness with. Plus, you get a sample pack with every order!
http://thefiberopticstore.com/FOS-mainpage.htm


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Congratulations to all of you for getting one of these beauties. Of course, I procrastinated on ordering one and lost out. I look forward to following the progress of your builds.

One thing you may want to consider is using 1/8" - 1/4" clear acrylic or polycarbonate sheet for the internal structure. It is very light and strong, can be found fairly cheaply from local plastics suppliers, and works to keep everything rigid and in-line.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Trek Ace said:


> you may want to consider is using 1/8" - 1/4" clear acrylic or polycarbonate sheet for the internal structure. It is very light and strong, can be found fairly cheaply from local plastics suppliers, and works to keep everything rigid and in-line.


Yeah, acrylic was my first impulse. 

I'll have a better idea of this kit's reinforcement needs are after I've had more time to play around with the parts. 

And then there's the question of fiber-optic lighting. To Light or Not to Light... I keep going back and forth on this issue. 

On the one hand lit models can look very cool, but given the scale in this case I'm concerned about the individual points of light appearing too large. The subject obviously calls for an extremely fine gauge of fiber-optic, and the thought of all those teeny-tiny broken drill bits fills my heart with dread.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Thanks for all the feedback on this kit. 

I really like the info about support for the bridge section. Thanks.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

dtssyst said:


> I agree that the fiber optic size could make the illusion of scale get out of whack. This is why I am going to use the smallest that I can within reason (.25 mm). I think that .75 mm is way to big for the entire ship but it may look good to have a larger window here and there.


"Within reason." There's the rub. 

My concern is that, from an aperture-drilling perspective, .25 may be a prohibitively tricky gauge to work with. Not to mention the fact that strands that thin tend to be a little on the brittle side.

Don't get me wrong; I'm all for lighting this model if the scale issue can be "reasonably" overcome. Otherwise it seems like a lot of work in the service of what could ultimately prove to be an undesirable effect.


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## dlbsyst (Jun 9, 2009)

Carson Dyle said:


> "Within reason." There's the rub.
> 
> My concern is that, from an aperture-drilling perspective, .25 may be a prohibitively tricky gauge to work with. Not to mention the fact that strands that thin tend to be a little on the brittle side.
> 
> *Don't get me wrong; I'm all for lighting this model if the scale issue can be "reasonably" overcome. Otherwise it seems like a lot of work in the service of what could ultimately prove to be an undesirable effect*.


Well, as the guy that dtssyst is building this model for I am glad he's daring enough to take on the challenge. 

Hackcore used .50mm bits for his Randy Copper Star Destroyer build and considering how amazing his build's lighting looks and the fact that the Anigrand model is about 10 inches shorter .25 should be about the perfect size.

-dlbsyst


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I agree that .25 sounds like a good fit scale-wise in terms of producing convincingly sized points of light. My concern is that working with hundreds of (literally) hair thin strands may present certain practical construction difficulties. 

I just ordered a spool of .25 fiber-optic, so I guess I'll find out soon enough.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

The hand drill arrived today. 100 times better than the tool I was going to try to use. So far, 10 windows have been drilled with no issues and in very little time. 

This Wednesday will be model day.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Taking my time is not a problem. I tend to get pretty Zen with my modeling projects. 

My only rule about model lighting is this: If the inclusion of lights in any way diminishes the model's appearance when it's _not_ lit, then the effect is not worth my time and effort. Having seen what some other modelers have done with this particular ISD kit, I'm still not 100% convinced it's an ideal candidate for lighting -- but I very much hope that it is!



dtssyst said:


> The hand drill arrived today. 100 times better than the tool I was going to try to use.


Which drill are you using? I just ordered a Dremel stylus based on the recommendation of a fellow modeler who's logged many an hour drilling tiny portals. It hasn't arrived yet, but my spool of .25mm filament arrived today, and _damn_ that stuff is fine (as in hard to see).

Anyway, thanks a million for taking the time to document your build-up. I plan to do likewise, so hopefully we'll toss each other the occasional helpful tip along the way.

Happy drilling!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Carson, that's precisely why I didn't go with .25mm FO! It's just too darn small (for my fat hands)! While it may make better "in scale" windows, the .75mm FO is much easier to handle and still flexable. I think .5mm would be the best bet if I had another to build. 

Everyones builds are looking good so far, by the way. And the more the better! Hopefully once my health improves I can get back into mine.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Which drill are you using? 
Here is a picture of it. The top of the picture has a micro bit installed (.25 mm). The bottom of the picture shows how it is put together and what all it comes with.

Robiwon, I wish you the best for your health. 

Metal ribs for the bottom half were cut this morning. I cut them before I went to work. 

I have the magnets to aid in holding the towers in place and yet be removable for building and shipping to the client.


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## GKvfx (May 30, 2008)

Carson Dyle said:


> .......my spool of .25mm filament arrived today, and _damn_ that stuff is fine (as in hard to see).........


Hmmmm, better order an upgrade for your Opti-visor then......

Gene


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

I have completed drilling 128+ holes for the bride section. Used a flashlight to get an idea on what the windows will look like. Fiber optic not installed yet.

The start of the internal support.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Starting to feed some fiber into the bridge part. The fibers are not glued in place yet.
Could not resist a light test on two of the windows.


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## Nektu (Aug 15, 2001)

*instructions?*

Managed to get this kit, and it's missing the instruction sheets. Can someone who owns the model copy them for me? How many sheets are there? No box art, either.

thanks for any help!

Ken


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Nektu said:


> Managed to get this kit, and it's missing the instruction sheets. Can someone who owns the model copy them for me? How many sheets are there? No box art, either.


Is it possible the instructions may have been mailed to you in a separate envelope? That's how I received them.

In any case, the "instructions" accompanying this kit are pretty worthless; it's basically just a diagram of the kit parts, with no real "instruction" re: how to put them together. 

Thing is, there is a GREAT DEAL of online photographic reference data of this subject, and the assembly itself is pretty self-explanatory. Get hold of some masking tape and you should be able to test-fit the main parts together in short order. 

You can also do what I'm doing, i.e. monitor this thread for the sort of helpful hints no printed instruction sheet could ever hope to emulate.


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

Odds are it's being sent in a separate envelope, especially if the package you got had no identifying label on it--that and the instructions would be sent separately for, shall we say, "customary reasons"...


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

The first post of this thread shows the instrucion sheet.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

This forum is very limited in photo hosting. I will continue to post here as long as I can.
This build can also be followed here...
http://www.resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=9346
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=84605

The upper Hull
The three parts that make up the upper hull have been attached together and pinned for added strength. The upper hull is temporarily clamped to the lower hull to aid in alignment of the parts for future assembly.

The nose of the upper hull had lackluster detail so that was replaced with a house fence (train scale N ).

Putty work was also started on the upper hull. 

Still more to do...


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

The engine assembly is glued to the bottom hull. The actual engines and hoses are not attached yet. That will be later once the engines are prepped with light(s).
Sorry, no pics this time.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

This should be interesting....

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/external_drive/folder/1298269.html

I was hoping our friend in Japan would tackle this particular model. Given his work on the Moebius J-2, I suspect his Anigrand ISD build thread will be one to watch (and I, for one, need all the tips I can get).


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Carson Dyle said:


> This should be interesting....
> 
> http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/external_drive/folder/1298269.html
> 
> I was hoping our friend in Japan would tackle this particular model. Given his work on the Moebius J-2, I suspect his Anigrand ISD build thread will be one to watch (and I, for one, need all the tips I can get).


Great, just great, he's building one?!?!?!? I guess I'll just chuck mine in the trash now..........................................................................................







:tongue::wave: It will be a great build to watch!


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## JadesDarkHeart (Dec 8, 2003)

robiwon said:


> Great, just great, he's building one?!?!?!? I guess I'll just chuck mine in the trash now..........................................................................................
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sell it to me


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

HaHa..............NO!

I can't wait for him to get more into his build. I just got my custom made wood stand for mine. Once I adjust the height of the support rods, and trim them, I'll snap some pics.


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## JadesDarkHeart (Dec 8, 2003)

robiwon said:


> HaHa..............NO!
> 
> I can't wait for him to get more into his build. I just got my custom made wood stand for mine. Once I adjust the height of the support rods, and trim them, I'll snap some pics.


Cool I love the bases people build sometimes more than the model itself


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

robiwon said:


> I just got my custom made wood stand for mine. Once I adjust the height of the support rods, and trim them, I'll snap some pics.


I look forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Just out of curiousity, how much were those Star Destroyer?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Including the shipping, they totaled out at $298.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Sorry for the lack of progress. 
My car ('97 Olds Cutlass) was not the greatest so I traded it in and got a 2010 Honda Fit Sport. It is a great little car with a lot better gas mileage than my old car. I wanted something bigger but I am happy with this little guy.

Updates...

Photo Etch added.

The ball structures have magnets to aid in holding them in place on the top of the bridge.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Altering the main engines in process.

Picture 1 and 2: Cut back part off of the main engine. I am using a fine toothed hobby saw.
Picture 3: file/cut all flash between the fins. Picture 3 shows only a few of them done.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Picture 1: The small ring that was cut off needs the outer circumference sanded smooth all around. It is very fragile. 
This picture also shows all the inner fins filed/cut outon the main engine part.

Picture 2 shows both parts back together. I have not glued them yet as I need to drill out the large part for lighting. Once that is complete both parts will be glued together.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Last progress on engine #1 prep work.

The outer ring is now glued in place.

ALSO...
The dremel made a mess but the results are fantastic. I was not sure I could pull it off. I hollowed out the back to allow for lighting and while doing so I tried to maintain the detail inside the engine. 

I had one oops that I fixed. One of the smallest fins came off. I carved a new one and glued it back in place. Very very small piece but vital that it goes in or all would have been for nothing.

If I can do the other two engines the same, all will be great.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Niceee!!!


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## John O (Mar 8, 2000)

dtssyst said:


> ...the results are fantastic. I was not sure I could pull it off. I hollowed out the back to allow for lighting and while doing so I tried to maintain the detail inside the engine. I had one oops that I fixed. One of the smallest fins came off. I carved a new one and glued it back in place. Very very small piece but vital that it goes in or all would have been for nothing.


Holy crap! That is an amazing touch with the dremel. I've looked at this part a few times and wondered how to keep the detail AND light it. I'd considered taking a mold of just the center and casting it in clear. Still might and I don't think I'd have a steady enough hand or nerve to attempt that bit bit of dremel magic!

John O.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

John O,
Thanks for the compliment on the dremel work. I still have two more engines to do for this kit. One opps means all is lost. Keep your fingers crossed that all goes well.
I also have my kit. If/when I do my kit I will be doing the same dremel magic. Again, it will be all or nothing. (I think my heart just missed a beat thinking about it).


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Ever watch a surgeon drilling into bone, cutting around tissue?
I often pretend I am dooing that when making critical dremel cuts.
LOL>

It helps me to do better.

I also try to practice on spare sprue.

Like a surgeon, great work, you can cut me open anyday.
That was fine work on the engines.
Cheers


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## CessnaDriver (Apr 27, 2005)

The smallest model I have ever built for sure! LOL











I made a custom base for the SD so thought I would share that.
It turned out pretty good and wasn't too hard to make.
Molding and plywood from Home Depot. Gorrilla glue, acrylic rods, chrome washers, JB Weld and some clear rubber and felt cushions. 
Had to get the custom cut mirror with drilled holes done by a glass place though.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

WOW! That Tyderium is just amazing.


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## CessnaDriver (Apr 27, 2005)

I need to make a display base for it. 
The penny and a toothpick would just about work! LOL


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## CessnaDriver (Apr 27, 2005)

Ha! 

I filed down the penny and painted it, stretched out some clear styrene and there you go!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

That is just too cool for school!


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

I am sorry for not posting anything until now.
The model is finished and has shipped as of Monday to dlbsyst. He should have it tomorrow!

Here are a few photos for you to enjoy. Some are blurry, sorry about that. Hopefully dlbsyst can get some better ones with the lights.

Thanks to all for looking and following this thread.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Here are some more...










































And for some fun, I did the following...


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## Bobj812 (Jun 15, 2009)

Wow. Great job!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Terrific job.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

*amazing!!!*


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Thank you for the compliments.
dlbsyst should have it at his door any moment now.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Any pix of the packing job? I'd be terrified of shipping damage if I were to sell mine when fully assembled -or even just moving it to another apartment across town.


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

I have just purchased a 28" Anigrand star destroyer. I plan on installing fiberoptics in this one. Has anyone out there have advice on the tools needed for this project?
Also is there a need for a metal piece to be installed in this model for support? I have heard that over time resin kits can sag. Your advice would be much appreciated.


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

I have just purchased a 28" anigrand star destroyer. I plan on installing fiberoptics in it.
It will be at least a couple of weeks before it arrives. Has anyone got advice on the tools recommended for this task? Also I have heard that sagging is a problem over time with these resin kits. Should I consider installing some type of backbone support for this
model? Your advice would be much appreciated.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Congrats on getting this wonderful kit. Several people have built/are building this kit. I am about halfway thru with mine. It is being lit with LEDs and fiber optics. So, to answer your questions-

Tools needed or that will make your job easier are- 
- Standard tools (hobby knife, sandpaper, super glue, etc.
- A metal file will come in handy for squaring up mating edges. 
- A dremel with sanding drum will make short work of pour stubs.
- Five minute epoxy for reinforcing glue joints on the hulls inside.
- Pin vise with micro drill bits for the windows. (*see below)
- Asprin for the headache that will come from drilling hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of windows.

I used .75mm fiber optic for mine and drilled about 850 windows. Other people have used .25mm fiber optic and drilled over 1500 windows. I chose .75mm as the drill bits are less prone to breakage than the smaller .25mm bits. While this will give you larger windows the trade off in replacing exspensive 
drill bits was worth it. *Plus, with using a .75mm bit I was able to use it in my Dremel and made quick work of all the windows. I have not yet broken the bit I used.

As for the sagging, the large panels may have some warp to them. If it's real bad you can run the part under very hot water or use a hair dryer to heat the parts up. BE CAREFUL!! You can then bend the pice back to being straight. After you get the model built and the upper and lower hulls are joined and glued any warping that is left sould be taken care of. There may still be some but not much. How you display the finished model will also determine if anything will sag. A well designed base that provides good support for the front, rear and sides is important in my book. At the end of my post I will put a link to pics of my WIP build. You may want to epoxy some aluminum strips inside the hull to add stiffness.

In the end it's up to you. It's a great kit and the Holy Grail for me. I almost bought a Randy Cooper SD, but in the end could not justify the cost when the Anigrand kit was released. If you have any other questions or anything just let me know. There are some other builds on other forums as well. Some completed and some still "on the bench".

Have fun and post some pics of your progress.:wave:

http://picasaweb.google.com/116877382961951625239/AnigrandStarDestroyerWIP#


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

Great work! Yours is coming along real nice. I have the dremel on order along with the 
pin vise. The only things I need to get is the epoxy and the asprin. I have yet to decide on the fiberoptic strand size. I have some strands that I will compare when the model arrives. I was wondering what you painted the inside of the 3 Ion engines with.
It looks like it adds reflection to the light from inside. I want to do the same to mine as well. Thanks for the info. I appreciate your help in getting me started.

catroc


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## Stu Pidasso (Apr 5, 2008)

I am SO GLAD I picked one of these bad boys up. Definitely one of the grail kits. I'm also deathly afraid to build the thing...


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks catroc.

The engines are much brighter in person. The camera washed out the color. The inside of the bells are flat white as it reflects the most light.

Stu, BUILD IT!!


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## Stu Pidasso (Apr 5, 2008)

Can't yet! Too busy producing kits and casting! lol


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

Does anyone know a good place to get fiberoptics and led's? The few strands I have purchased are too small (0.25mm) and I would like to try 0.50mm, or 0.75mm and see which would look better.

Thanks,


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

This where I get my fiber from. Great to deal with and fast shipping. Check out the monthly specials too. For LEDs I get them off ebay.

http://thefiberopticstore.com/FOS-mainpage.htm


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

Thanks for the info.


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

I just recieved mine in the mail. Can anyone suggest the proper modeling glue that is recommended for resin kits? 
Thanks.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Slow setting super glue. The thick stuff. Get the good stuff from the hobby shop or brands like loctite or Gorilla Glue. Don't buy the little bottles. They wont last. It gives you a little more wiggle room before it sets up. Also some kicker. This is a spray that instantly sets the glue. Also pick up some five minute epoxy. This is good for reinforcing large joints for added strength. You could also use JB Weld from the auto parts store or big box store. It's also a two part epoxy but grey in color. Very strong stuff. Regular "model glue" will not work on resin.

:wave:


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

catroc said:


> I just recieved mine in the mail. Can anyone suggest the proper modeling glue that is recommended for resin kits?
> Thanks.


Since it sounds like your not all that familiar with resin kits, please make yourself aware with the safety issues in working with resin.

First off, only wet sand.
Resin dust is harmful and a known carcinogen.

Wet sanding helps control this.

If you do dry sand and create dust, clean it up, especially if you have kids.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

robiwon said:


> This where I get my fiber from. Great to deal with and fast shipping. Check out the monthly specials too. For LEDs I get them off ebay.
> 
> http://thefiberopticstore.com/FOS-mainpage.htm


Totally second that. Paul the owner is a good guy I've dealt with many times.


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

Can anyone tell me what color paint to use for this model. I know it should be a lighter shade of gray. I have decided to paint before I start the drilling. 
Thanks.


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## catroc (Nov 26, 2010)

Can anyone recommend what color paint to use on this model? I know it is a lighter shade of gray but I am not sure what it is. I have decided to paint before drilling.
Thanks.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

For my build this is the plan. I have already finished the bridge and dorsal on mine. I first painted it flat black using regular ol' Krylon from Walmart. I then, from a distance, dusted on flat white, again using a big can of Krylon. I dusted the white on until I was satisfied with the color and coverage. This allowed the recessed areas not to recieve as much paint as the tops of the model did. By not shooting a full even coat of the white I was left with darkened nooks and crannies and a slight off white, grayish/white surface.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

catroc said:


> Can anyone recommend what color paint to use on this model? I know it is a lighter shade of gray but I am not sure what it is. I have decided to paint before drilling.
> Thanks.


someone gave me a tip to paint the whole thing black then do a light coat of white. Kind of gives it a little dimensional feel.


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## CessnaDriver (Apr 27, 2005)

catroc said:


> Can anyone recommend what color paint to use on this model? I know it is a lighter shade of gray but I am not sure what it is. I have decided to paint before drilling.
> Thanks.



Absolutely go with a dark undercoat and lighter main coat.
Keep good track of the main coat if you mix your own color, as you will probably want to very slightly darken it for the paneling work. 

I used rattle can Krylon Primer 1318 for the base coat. This is a dark grey color.

Model masters light gray FS96495 for the hull with airbrush

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=22002


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Nice one, Cessna! 

As to particular colors, I suppose I can't really say. Anything but 'pure' white. Probably one of the best references is Cooper's build of his own kit. (Unfortunately it looks like he took many of his beauty shots offline.)

http://randycoopermodels.com/content/avenger-star-destroyer

There are patches of different grays all over the place. I'd guess there are at least 3 levels: dark, medium and light. That's how I'll paint my Ani anyway, starting with darkest colors and masking those up to the lightest color which would be my 'base' tone. I'd also keep them within maybe 25% of each other. Very few 25% gray, many at 50%, as many at 75% as the 25%'s and I guess a base tone of 85% gray. Maybe split the grays into thirds (20%/50%/80%) 

It'll be a tough decision with much research up front. The great thing about grays is they are easier to ballpark than most colors.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I agree with modelman. I will also be doing some very subtle paneling on mine. I may do it with my airbrush or, like my SS X-Wing, tape off a panel and use pastel chaulk for ultra light shading. The thing I hate the most is seeing panels that stand out like a sore thumb on ships. Sublte is the key with such a large ship.


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Robiwon and Model Man do you have threads on your builds? I was fortunate to get the anigrand SS and a beat up RC SS, and would love to see some more builds before I tackle these kits.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Darth, here is an album with my pics. I put this on hold due to health issues I had several months ago (still cancer free people) and because of the holidays. I hope to get back to this real soon.

http://picasaweb.google.com/116877382961951625239/AnigrandStarDestroyerWIP#

I'll have to look for my thread and post a link.


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks for the link Robiwon. Sorry to hear about your health, but glad to hear that your cancer free!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks Darth. If you have any questions on the Ani SD just give a shout. It is truly a great kit. Too bad they are no longer available. I will edit this post with links to a few builds for you as well.

Here you go-

http://www.resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=9346

Another very nice build-

http://www.resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=9661

Cessnadriver's complete thread-

http://www.resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=9354


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

robiwon said:


> Darth, here is an album with my pics. I put this on hold due to health issues I had several months ago (still cancer free people) and because of the holidays. I hope to get back to this real soon.
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/116877382961951625239/AnigrandStarDestroyerWIP#
> 
> I'll have to look for my thread and post a link.


I was wondering what was happening with you.
I'm glad to hear that your in better shape.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks Tepes. All tests came back negative for Lymphoma (cancer). I still have four blood clots on my left lung. I'll be on blood thinners for at least the next 6 months. I go bi-weekly and have blood drawn at the cancer center to make sure my body is still _making_ blood. A normal blood level is around 14. They get worried if you drop to an 8. I was at a 5 and about a week away from just dropping they said. My fiancee saved my life as she is the one who made me go to the hospital in the first place. I also go i-weekly to the hospital and have an INR test to make sure my blood is staying thin, to break up the clots. I'm at about a 2 for my INR, which is good. I go back in a few months to have another PET Scan. I was however diagnosed with Hemolytic Anemia.
https://health.google.com/health/ref/Hemolytic+anemia
They just haven't concluded what caused it yet.

But, I feel good and am getting back into building, a lot lately!:thumbsup:


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

robiwon,
I would like to first wish you all the best with your health. 
Second, I would like to thank you for following this thread a lot closer than I have and assisting those here that needed help. 
Lastly, I hope to see your Ani SD build real soon.

*For those asking about painting.*
the colors used for the model I built are:
Tamiya flat black spray (about two cans) 
Floquil Reefer White spray (about two cans) and bottle (1 fluid oz jar will do).
Floquil primer bottle (1 fluid oz jar will do)

I used black as a base coat. Followed by reefer white. The white was sprayed on from only one direction. Such as from the center of the upper hull to the outer edge of the upper hull. This helped create shadows and scale. It also helped the pannel lines to stand out. Thanks Hackcore for this tip!
The pannels were a mix of reefer white and primer. I do not remember the ratio. The mix should be so that once painted it is not to dark. You want it to blend. This will help with the scale of the ship. I airbrushed this so I could control the pannels overall shade (dark/light). FYI: Some of the pannels on dlbsyst ship were hand painted.

*Glue...* 
I used two part epoxy. Some from wally world. I have found that it is expensive as you can not control how much you use. The stuff from the hobby shop is so much better. You can control how much you use. I used 5 min epoxy and 5-15 sec and 10-25 sec gap filling super glue. No kickers or anything else.

*Fiber optics/lighting...*
I still say that .25 is the way to go on this kit.
http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/ is where I get my fiber optic from.
I got all the led's from ebay, wire from radio shack, the 12-5 Volts DC Power Jack and 
12 Volt 1.5K MA.Transformer from http://www.voodoofx.com/parts.htm

*Tools needed.*
Airbrush (optional)
Dremmel with Sanding Bands & Engraving Cutters, 
.30 drill bits (10-20 is more than enouph) (if lighting with .25 fiber optic)
Clamps of different sizes
Razor blades size #11
Soldering iron and solder (if lighting)
Putty
Sandpaper
Masking tape

*REMEMBER:*
'taint a hobby if you gotta hurry'

I hope this info helps.

As always, post your progress!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

dtssyst said:


> robiwon,
> I would like to first wish you all the best with your health.
> Second, I would like to thank you for following this thread a lot closer than I have and assisting those here that needed help.
> Lastly, I hope to see your Ani SD build real soon.
> ...


dtssyst, thanks for the compliments and well wishes! You did a fantastic job on this. It is my Holy Grail and your comment about hurrying is absolute fact! This is definately a kit that will take some time. Take care!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

robiwan: So glad to hear the Lymphoma tests came back negative.

Thanks to all you ISD builders for taking the time to post your tips and links. They are greatly appreciated!

In addition to the excellent links posted above, I'd advise anyone contemplating an Anigrand ISD build to check out this thread (if you haven't done so already)...

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/external_drive/folder/1298269.html

The text is in Japanese, but the pix do most of the talking.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks Carson. How could I forget our wonderful Japanese modeler! His build is so far beyond what I can even think of! I think his will have more finite detail than even the 8 foot studio model!

Thanks as well Carson for the well wishes! I have had a headache at the back of my head at the base for going on three weeks now. I see my cancer doctor on Thursday. I will discuss it with him then. Hopefully nothing serious.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

robiwon said:


> Thanks Carson. How could I forget our wonderful Japanese modeler! His build is so far beyond what I can even think of! I think his will have more finite detail than even the 8 foot studio model!


It's funny; a buddy of mine worked on the original 8 foot ISD for Empire, and when I directed him to that Japanese thread he said (and I quote): "Wow, that guy's nuts!" Which is really his way of saying "I'm impressed!"

FWIW, I think every one of the guys mentioned here -- those who have tackled this highly challenging kit -- have done an amazing job. I've studied all your build threads in detail, and I really mean it when I say THANKS for paving the way for the rest of us. Your generosity in posting your progress is greatly appreciated.



robiwon said:


> Thanks as well Carson for the well wishes!


Yeah, well, us aging modelers with health issues have to stick together.

:thumbsup:


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## firemnsteve (Mar 1, 2012)

*Anigrand Star Destroyer Kit*

Hello all, i only joined today and thought i would say hello. I've just bought (finally) my Anigrand Star Destroyer and waiting for DHL to knock with my box. If anyone is interested i got it through ebay from a seller in Germany (cosmic_x) so far he's sold 7 at about £300 after conversion which makes me think he's doing his own casts of the original, but if he is it means the kits back out there before george and his lawyers block it again. anyway as soon as it arrives i'll let you know about the quality of the kit and post a few pics. By the way i'm not associated with him at all just been after this kit for ages


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Take and post some photos and I should be able to tell you if it is an original cast or not as I have built two of them and I am working on a third. I also have one (unbuilt) in my collection.

My friend Will (dlbsyst) may still have some of the orignal castings for sale. Send him a message if you are interested. He is on the bay (trekkerman214).
Tell him I sent you.


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## Gino Dykstra (Aug 15, 2012)

*Anigrand Star Destroyer instructions*

Hello all -- new to the forum, although I've been in the biz going on 40 years. I've gotten an Anigrand Star Destroyer commission, and the model looks challenging -- more so because mine came with no instructions! Any idea if someone could send some email attachments of the things or something? I'm directly available at [email protected].

On that subject, who's interested in doing some swaps? I used to live near Dyersville, IA and bought up the Ertl shop when they were closing down. 

Gino Dykstra


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I don't believe the manufacturer produced any instructions, but this photo-filled build thread should point you in the right direction...

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/external_drive/folder/1298269.html

The text is in Japanese, but the pix do most of the talking.


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## dtssyst (Sep 7, 2007)

Anigrands Instructions


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