# T-Dash chassis pictures



## tomhocars

Well ,you asked for them and here they are.I have been racing these all day.Joe65skylark came oner for some laps also.Little oil and some easy breakin laps and we were flying around.The modern day wheels look great on the Yenko Chevelle.These pictures were taken after aa few hours of running.The production tires wil be a llittle wider.


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## Omega

Tom, thank you they look great. Can you take a few pictures with the top plate off showing the arm and crown gear?

Dave


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## sidejobjon

WOW LOOK GREAT
Sjj


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## tomhocars

*couple more*

Couple more


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## slotcarman12078

:woohoo: Thank you Tom, and a huge THANK YOU to Dan!!! How do they compare with a stock Aurora Tom? Are they fast like a JL or closer to an 18 ohm Aurora? Those wheels look sharp for stock factory wheels!! You did a major league grand slam home run job Dan!! :woohoo:


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## Bubba 123

tomhocars said:


> Well ,you asked for them and here they are.I have been racing these all day.Joe65skylark came oner for some laps also.Little oil and some easy breakin laps and we were flying around.The modern day wheels look great on the Yenko Chevelle.These pictures were taken after aa few hours of running.The production tires wil be a llittle wider.


looks good-2-go by me :thumbsup:

Bubba 123 :wave:


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## Gear Head

Where do I sign?


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## Hittman101

Sweet!!! Can't wait until there up for sale...


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## Joe65SkylarkGS

OMG OMG OMG!!!!!


I had the pleasure of test driving the new chassis boys!!!! Stopped at Toms after work and put somr laps on these 2 babies!!!

Let me say, bravo Dan. Awsome chassis and in black its an absolute masterpiece! 

The wheels are smoking hot too. So much better than the skinny chrome ones that usually go in the garbage. 

And another thing is that this chassis is the correct length!! Not long like AW or JL. The right length. 


Thanks for that Dan. 

Again bravo and i hope the Sept release is when we can have em. 

I want the first 100!!!!!


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## brownie374

What do the arms ohm at?Who makes the brushes?


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## rholmesr

*oh yeah!!*

woohoo!!!
:woohoo:


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## joegri

ut ohhh theres a new sheriff in town n his name is t-dash. yeah man i,m in for a few! nice job dan and thanx for the pix tom n joe with the blow by blow. iy wont be long now fellas!


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## njbumper

*T dash*

Put me down for at least 10


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## win43

brownie374 said:


> What do the arms ohm at?Who makes the brushes?


REALLY ................... gonna stir up another pot???


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## Omega

tomhocars said:


> Couple more


Thank you Tom. They look sharp.

Dave


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## ajd350

Pancake porn......


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## Ralphthe3rd

*FABULOUS ! *:thumbsup:


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## Tazman6069

*T-Dash*


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## tomyafx1

I will take 50


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## tomyafx1

Tom,

Please check your e-mail box here on Hobby talk sent message to you


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## lenny

brownie374 said:


> What do the arms ohm at?Who makes the brushes?


the brushes in the prototypes I sent out are Wizzard brushes. Our brushes are still being sourced/produced. We hope to have brushes on par with the awesome Wizzard brushes used for these first 10 cars.

Also, the tires on the prototypes are not correct. We didnt have rear tires the right width and profile. These are also items that are in the works and will be on our production cars.

A note about the armature. 

It's similar to an Autoworld arm in that it's a trilam arm with resistance about 16 to 17 per pole. That's where the similarity ends. As you can see, we have a copper comm plate and there is a plastic spacer between the comm plate and the comm stack. This spacer prevents the comm plate from being distorted, bent, skewed, screwed up, pushed up towards the comm stack, etc as the bottom bushing is pressed into place. We ran through about 10 rounds of samples with these arms and we have a solid, well made product where the shafts are on straight, the comm plate is perpendicular to the shaft and the bottom bushing is a consistent distance from the bottom of the shaft. This helps to ensure that the comm plate is a consistent distance from the bottom of the chassis, _*which helps to make sure that the solder tabs aren't rubbing on the bottom of the chassis*_... It spins true and flat, not 'oblique' and off center. We are very satisfied with this armature.

The tri-lam is our work horse. It will be used in the T-Dash, the magna trac equivalent of the T-Dash, the 4 gear equivalent of the T-Dash, etc. This will be our base for future armature modifications which will include other variations of the tri-lam arm with multiple resistance levels. A future modification will include a 17 ohm 2-lam arm to help satisfy the Legacy Aurora crowd.


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## Bill Hall

Truly marvelous!

The dawn of a new era.


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## slotking

they look geat

thanks for the hard work to get them out


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## howlin' hoosier

lenny said:


> the brushes in the prototypes I sent out are Wizzard brushes. Our brushes are still being sourced/produced. We hope to have brushes on par with the awesome Wizzard brushes used for these first 10 cars.
> 
> Also, the tires on the prototypes are not correct. We didnt have rear tires the right width and profile. These are also items that are in the works and will be on our production cars.
> 
> A note about the armature.
> 
> It's similar to an Autoworld arm in that it's a trilam arm with resistance about 16 to 17 per pole. That's where the similarity ends. As you can see, we have a copper comm plate and there is a plastic spacer between the comm plate and the comm stack. This spacer prevents the comm plate from being distorted, bent, skewed, screwed up, pushed up towards the comm stack, etc as the bottom bushing is pressed into place. We ran through about 10 rounds of samples with these arms and we have a solid, well made product where the shafts are on straight, the comm plate is perpendicular to the shaft and the bottom bushing is a consistent distance from the bottom of the shaft. This helps to ensure that the comm plate is a consistent distance from the bottom of the chassis, _*which helps to make sure that the solder tabs aren't rubbing on the bottom of the chassis*_... It spins true and flat, not 'oblique' and off center. We are very satisfied with this armature.
> 
> The tri-lam is our work horse. It will be used in the T-Dash, the magna trac equivalent of the T-Dash, the 4 gear equivalent of the T-Dash, etc. This will be our base for future armature modifications which will include other variations of the tri-lam arm with multiple resistance levels. A future modification will include a 17 ohm 2-lam arm to help satisfy the Legacy Aurora crowd.


Would something like the Super II arm be a possibility down the road?


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## alpink

*sgrig quad lam*



howlin' hoosier said:


> Would something like the Super II arm be a possibility down the road?


tjetsgrig rewinds exact replicas of the original Aurora Super II Quadralam armature for a very reasonable price.


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## bearsox

lenny said:


> the brushes in the prototypes I sent out are Wizzard brushes. Our brushes are still being sourced/produced. We hope to have brushes on par with the awesome Wizzard brushes used for these first 10 cars.
> 
> Also, the tires on the prototypes are not correct. We didnt have rear tires the right width and profile. These are also items that are in the works and will be on our production cars.
> 
> A note about the armature.
> 
> It's similar to an Autoworld arm in that it's a trilam arm with resistance about 16 to 17 per pole. That's where the similarity ends. As you can see, we have a copper comm plate and there is a plastic spacer between the comm plate and the comm stack. This spacer prevents the comm plate from being distorted, bent, skewed, screwed up, pushed up towards the comm stack, etc as the bottom bushing is pressed into place. We ran through about 10 rounds of samples with these arms and we have a solid, well made product where the shafts are on straight, the comm plate is perpendicular to the shaft and the bottom bushing is a consistent distance from the bottom of the shaft. This helps to ensure that the comm plate is a consistent distance from the bottom of the chassis, _*which helps to make sure that the solder tabs aren't rubbing on the bottom of the chassis*_... It spins true and flat, not 'oblique' and off center. We are very satisfied with this armature.
> 
> The tri-lam is our work horse. It will be used in the T-Dash, the magna trac equivalent of the T-Dash, the 4 gear equivalent of the T-Dash, etc. This will be our base for future armature modifications which will include other variations of the tri-lam arm with multiple resistance levels. A future modification will include a 17 ohm 2-lam arm to help satisfy the Legacy Aurora crowd.


*
Dan ,
thanks so much for the hard work and heavy lifting on a very difficult project ! I greatly appreciate your efforts and now today's preview of the chassis. Further your answers to folks like Brownie and explainations of arms and status and plans goes above and beyond. I am very grateful to you and your efforts for us who enjoy this great hobby . Dash is forming quite the legacy and you should be proud ! 

Dennis Rutherford / Bear
Balls Out Ho Racing 
* :wave:


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## vickers83

What Bear said! :thumbsup:


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## lenny

bearsox said:


> *
> Dan ,
> thanks so much for the hard work and heavy lifting on a very difficult project ! I greatly appreciate your efforts and now today's preview of the chassis. Further your answers to folks like Brownie and explainations of arms and status and plans goes above and beyond. I am very grateful to you and your efforts for us who enjoy this great hobby . Dash is forming quite the legacy and you should be proud !
> 
> Dennis Rutherford / Bear
> Balls Out Ho Racing
> * :wave:


Thank you, Dennis!


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## brownie374

win43 said:


> REALLY ................... gonna stir up another pot???


Sorry to upset you win 43,Dan didnt mind answering my question.Thanks Dan!


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## slotcarman12078

Dan, if you weren't a dude, I'd almost kiss ya!! :lol:

Thank you for going through all the hard work you've done to get this chassis into production!! I'm looking forward to buying lot of these for my lighting projects!! Thank you for getting a high quality product to us for a reasonable price!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## slotking

> A future modification will include a 17 ohm 2-lam arm to help satisfy the Legacy Aurora crowd


cool!



> The tri-lam is our work horse


maybe some groups will allow the tri-lam?

curious how it will compare to the 2 lam aurora arm
can't wait to get my hands on the car.

I can see more video's in the works for my vid library

am no platic expert, but did aurora use glass or fiberglass to re-enforce their chassis?

I know it is used in some plastic manufacturing and some bushing manufacturing.


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## A/FX Nut

*Finally, what this hobby needs, a long overdue replacement for the original Aurora Thunderjet chassis.* Supplies of the original NOS chassis are getting too high in cost for me. I have some DASH bodies that need this chassis. And some original Thunderjet bodies also. 

Thank you Dan.

Randy.


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## 1976Cordoba

lenny said:


> . . .
> The tri-lam is our work horse. It will be used in the T-Dash, the magna trac equivalent of the T-Dash, the 4 gear equivalent of the T-Dash, etc . . .



Sweet -- a magna-Dash. Can stop buying blowed up AFXs someday :thumbsup:


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## slotking

seen a few emails with the pictures go out, but it looks like Dan's post in the other thread was missed by them.


> Originally Posted by Ralphthe3rd View Post
> Question about the chassis material... is it made from Nylatron, or some other type plastic, delrin, or nylon ? From the pix, the chassis looks Black, is this true ?
> 
> 
> 
> Chassis material has not been finalized. We wanted Delrin, but the shrinkage of delrin disqualified itself. We found that pieces weren't fitting together very well, wheel base was affected, etc... Nylon has some of the same shrinkage issues plus it absorbs moisture which causes isses. the prototypes are actually molded in black polycarbonate.
> 
> Tough stuff, doesnt shrink, dimensionally stable, can take a beating, etc. But it's not that great for wear and friction. ABS is another material he have had some samples made of.
> 
> what will most likely happen is that it will be a PC or ABS 'alloy' with additives to help out with increasing wear and reducing friction.
> 
> Hope this answered your question.
Click to expand...


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## oddrods

Per the wiki page:

"A chemical compatibility chart shows that polycarbonate is incompatible with ammonia and acetone because it dissolves in their presence.[22] Alcohol is one recommended organic solvent for cleaning grease and oils from polycarbonate."

Being that ammonia is often used in cleaning solutions in ultrasonic cleaners I think this could be a big problem.


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## 1976Cordoba

oddrods said:


> Per the wiki page:
> 
> "A chemical compatibility chart shows that polycarbonate is incompatible with ammonia and acetone because it dissolves in their presence.[22] Alcohol is one recommended organic solvent for cleaning grease and oils from polycarbonate."
> 
> Being that ammonia is often used in cleaning solutions in ultrasonic cleaners I think this could be a big problem.



If you read what Dash wrote, he said that the Prototypes were made from polycarbonate. He expected the production pieces to be made from ABS perhaps.


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## oddrods

I believe what I read was:


"what will most likely happen is that it will be a PC or ABS 'alloy' with additives to help out with increasing wear and reducing friction."

I assumed that PC was short for Poly-Carbonate. I apologize if I was incorrect.



Rob


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## lenny

oddrods said:


> Per the wiki page:
> 
> "A chemical compatibility chart shows that polycarbonate is incompatible with ammonia and acetone because it dissolves in their presence.[22] Alcohol is one recommended organic solvent for cleaning grease and oils from polycarbonate."
> 
> Being that ammonia is often used in cleaning solutions in ultrasonic cleaners I think this could be a big problem.


when cleaning something made from PC, dont use ammonia. or ultrasonic cleaners with ammonnia. seems simple to me...

There have to be different cleaning agents that will work with ultrasonic cleaners.


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## lenny

oddrods said:


> I believe what I read was:
> 
> 
> "what will most likely happen is that it will be a PC or ABS 'alloy' with additives to help out with increasing wear and reducing friction."
> 
> I assumed that PC was short for Poly-Carbonate. I apologize if I was incorrect.
> 
> 
> 
> Rob


Yes, PC was short for polycarbonate...


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## lenny

OK, this is NOT a sarcastic comment...

anyone use acetone for cleaning? Because acetone will eat ABS and PC...


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## Omega

I guess I am old school. I clean my chassis by taking them apart then using warm water and mild dish soap like Dawn and a toothbrush. Never seen a reason to buy a ultrasonic cleaner. 

Dan do you have a date of when you will have these in hand?

Dave


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## lenny

Omega said:


> I guess I am old school. I clean my chassis by taking them apart then using warm water and mild dish soap like Dawn and a toothbrush. Never seen a reason to buy a ultrasonic cleaner.
> 
> Dan do you have a date of when you will have these in hand?
> 
> Dave


not yet...


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## oddrods

Just so you know, I was not being critical at all. I am a huge supporter of Dash products. It was just a cautionary comment that came from experience with destroying a project that I had a lot of hours working on made from PC when someone else cleaned it with acetone and it literally shattered. When I saw that Dan was considering PC I took a look at wikipedia and saw that ammonia will also affect PC in a negative way so I passed it along. And no I don't use acetone as a rule but I actually have on occasion.

Rob


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## slotcarman12078

I use acetone for one thing and one thing only. Cleaning my airbrush when I'm too absent minded to clean it the correct way, right away with lacquer thinner. Acetone will eat up ABS too. I tried using it on a JL dark blue Suburban body. The paint laughed at it at first, but once I started breaking through the paint, the body was disappearing faster than the surrounding paint. 

Honestly, unless someone uses 1/2 a quart of oil to lubricate their new Dash chassis, and then drives it through the Sahara Desert, and then wipes it down with the family poodle, I really can't see a reason why someone would have to even think they need an ultrasonic cleaner for it. That will be their grand kid's problem.


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## tjd241

*So if we skip the Poodle part...*



slotcarman12078 said:


> Honestly, unless someone uses 1/2 a quart of oil to lubricate their new Dash chassis, and then drives it through the Sahara Desert, and then wipes it down with the family poodle, I really can't see a reason why someone would have to even think they need an ultrasonic cleaner for it.


.... normal tjet cleaning methods should suffice Joe? .... Makes sense. Keeping them clean should be no harder than keeping any NOS chassis or JL chassis clean. Besides, you can never can tell what kind of Shih-Tzu the family dog would introduce into the drivetrain.


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## slotking

I used the jewelry cleaner with vinegar maybe some dish detergent.
rinse with water
spray with safe on plastic brake cleaner


not sure what it is made from but my slottech cheetah chassis has been soaked many times in acetone to remove the black max glue.

it is still running strong and take hard wall shots


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## lenny

I appreciate oddrods posting the ultrasonic cleaner/ammonia info, but there is NO WAY that I am going to be able to consider every possible method of cleaning and all the different chemicals people may use. 

Our first choice for material has always been Delrin. If we can make sure that the shrinkage is not going to cause a problem, that's what were going with. If we cant go that route, then it's something that wont shrink that has some additives in it for wear and friction. Most likely PC or ABS alloys.

As a side note, does anyone know what the AW translucent chassis are molded out of? my guess is PC. Acrylic would be too brittle. It could possibly be a clear ABS with a tint. If anyone knows for sure, can you post it?


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## oddrods

If someone has a scrap chassis......Most plastics can be identified by burning. There are charts on line that are used to determine the plastic by the smell and behavior of the plastic as it burns. Could be fun letting your inner pyro out!



Rob


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## Speed_Racer

Omega said:


> I guess I am old school. I clean my chassis by taking them apart then using warm water and mild dish soap like Dawn and a toothbrush. Never seen a reason to buy a ultrasonic cleaner.
> 
> Dan do you have a date of when you will have these in hand?
> 
> Dave


that is a great idea thanks but I don't keep mines clean


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## slotking

> If we cant go that route, then it's something that wont shrink that has some additives in it for wear and friction


easy

*Transparent aluminum* :wave::devil::jest:


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## Omega

slotking said:


> easy
> 
> *Transparent aluminum* :wave::devil::jest:


Hello Computer. LOL :jest:


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## Ralphthe3rd

slotking said:


> easy
> 
> *Transparent aluminum* :wave::devil::jest:


SOMEBODY, is an Old Star Trek Movie Fan :wave:


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## TUFFONE

...There be whales here!


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## Black Oxxpurple

Are they on board yet?


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## 1976Cordoba

oddrods said:


> I believe what I read was:
> 
> "what will most likely happen is that it will be a PC or ABS 'alloy' with additives to help out with increasing wear and reducing friction."
> 
> I assumed that PC was short for Poly-Carbonate. I apologize if I was incorrect.
> 
> Rob



No I think I misread it as PVC, so my mistake 

Now where'd I leave my glasses? :tongue:


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## bobhch

Tom you have to change the pickup shoes after 30 straight days of running these so, you beter grab that controller from Skylark quick. :woohoo: hahahaha

Far Our Dan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Bob...looking forward to running some Dash chassis...zilla


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## blue55conv

Years ago I read a household tip that recommended using Ronsonol lighter fluid for removing gooey price tags. I have been using it ever since for cleaning grease from bodies and chassis's. It doesn't fog clear plastic windshields. It evaporates immediately. It is Naptha based. I use it with a Q-Tip. Has anyone else tried it?

Mike Cook


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## alpink

yes, naptha is a wonderful solvent for many purposes.
unfortunately it causes cancer in California.


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## ajd350

Then just don't use it there


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## 15807brett

Everything causes cancer California. There crazy


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## Bill Hall

So its the lighter fluid causing the cancer...?

Where's my smokes!?


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## slotcarman12078

It's the lighter fluid, the toxic Mattel tires, the paint spray bombs, the politicians, the air, the water, you name it! Even the ground causes cancer, lest we forget radon gas!!! :devil: The way I see it, sooner or later everything dies from something. I believe this insanity started with an old woman, hot coffee, and a Styrofoam cup..


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## Dslot

slotcarman12078 said:


> ... I believe this insanity started with an old woman, hot coffee, and a Styrofoam cup..


Nahh. She was a late-comer. 

When I was young, it was saccharin and radiation from television. In between, it was eggs and red meat, microwave ovens, mobile phones and fluorescent lights. 

Long before that, it was ragtime music, comic books and ... well ... you guys with the weak eyes and hairy palms know - no need to explain it.

-- D
It's always somethin' 
-- _Roseanne Roseannadanna_​Well, y'got trouble, my friends. Right here in River City. 
With a capital T and that rhymes with P, and that stands for POOL! 
-- _Professor Harold Hill_​


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## slotcarman12078

I was referring to the warning labels D. Gilda Radner was awesome by the way, as was most of that era of SNL....


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## Dslot

slotcarman12078 said:


> I was referring to the warning labels D. Gilda Radner was awesome by the way, as was most of that era of SNL....


Oh. 
Sorry, SCM. 
My error ... umm ...








... candygram ...

 -- D


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## win43

15807brett said:


> Everything causes cancer California. There crazy



LMAO ......just seemed funny to me .......... someone from Jersey saying Californians are crazy and the cancer thing ........... :roll:OTFLMAO.

I seem to remember when I left Jersey (for California) it was the cancer capital of the USA.
(Just a simple musing from a Jersey retread. This is in NO way a knock on Jersians or Californians )


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## SplitPoster

Wait until they figure out that the EMF output of an electric car is a lot stronger than that of a cell phone, and the field is a lot closer to people than a power line. Just wait.


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## Bubba 123

SplitPoster said:


> Wait until they figure out that the EMF output of an electric car is a lot stronger than that of a cell phone, and the field is a lot closer to people than a power line. Just wait.


OMG!!!
I have a nuclear power plant in my cave !!!!!!
surprised it don't glow in da' dark!!!!:drunk::thumbsup:

Bubba 123 :wave:


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## FOSTBITTEN

SplitPoster said:


> Wait until they figure out that the EMF output of an electric car is a lot stronger than that of a cell phone, and the field is a lot closer to people than a power line. Just wait.



Yeah and nickel mining is just for the environment too. Whoops! Should not have let that one outta the bag!


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## krazikev

*nice cars but said to newbie collectors*

these are nice cars you have but i have to say to the collector it will start bringing down the value of origanols and it will now make it harder to the newbie collectors that want the origanol tjet, now they have to look alittle harder when buying chassies


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## lenny

krazikev said:


> these are nice cars you have but i have to say to the collector it will start bringing down the value of origanols and it will now make it harder to the newbie collectors that want the origanol tjet, now they have to look alittle harder when buying chassies


if you have to look that hard to see the differences, then you shouldn't be collecting 'originals'... I guess 'T-Dash' on the gear plate isn't a dead giveaway.


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## slotcarman12078

Considering that the originals are currently at an over inflated price, a modest drop in price is a good thing. As far as telling a genny from a T Dash, besides the TDast molded into the top plate, there are other ways to tell one from the other. There will always be some turkey out there trying to capitalize on newbies... That's where poor feedback comes in. Eventually, the bad apples go away. The only real concern is the guys who break down chassis and sell parts. There are differences, though subtle. The T Dash has no back guide pin locators, and the rivets are slightly beefier. 










Thank you Dan for keeping us on the track!!


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## Ralphthe3rd

Joe, Not ALL Aurora T-Jet Chassis had those rear guide pin locator bars...


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## Bubba 123

lenny said:


> if you have to look that hard to see the differences, then you shouldn't be collecting 'originals'... I guess 'T-Dash' on the gear plate isn't a dead giveaway.


I use trifocals...but even so.....

did "AW" chassis Devaluate the Aurora's when they came out????

i'll stop here, most should be ; "ROFLTAO" by now :wave:


Thanks Dan, FINALLY, a GREAT Chassis w/ a reasonable $$$$$ !!! :thumbsup:

I "Know" w/ Santa's get'n ME 4 Xmas THIS year ;-)

PS; But what if Dan's turn out 2B BETTER than the Oirg's ???? OMG!!!!!
THAT is Scary !!! 

Bubba 123 :wave:


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## 41-willys

PS; But what if Dan's turn out 2B BETTER than the Oirg's ???? OMG!!!!!
[/QUOTE]

That would be AWESOME for Dan :thumbsup:


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## krazikev

lenny said:


> if you have to look that hard to see the differences, then you shouldn't be collecting 'originals'... I guess 'T-Dash' on the gear plate isn't a dead giveaway.


To me I know the t dash on plate is a give away but I was refuring to the scammers that would dermal or put an origanol plate on to scam the newbies, sorry but I am looking out for them not bashing anyone here.


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## krazikev

slotcarman12078 said:


> Considering that the originals are currently at an over inflated price, a modest drop in price is a good thing. As far as telling a genny from a T Dash, besides the TDast molded into the top plate, there are other ways to tell one from the other. There will always be some turkey out there trying to capitalize on newbies... That's where poor feedback comes in. Eventually, the bad apples go away. The only real concern is the guys who break down chassis and sell parts. There are differences, though subtle. The T Dash has no back guide pin locators, and the rivets are slightly beefier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Dan for keeping us on the track!!


Just curious, I have a basic number in my head but if you guys had to guess a number of what a stock complete t jet chassis goes for today what would the round about number be?? Thanks guys


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## alpink

krazikev said:


> Just curious, I have a basic number in my head but if you guys had to guess a number of what a stock complete t jet chassis goes for today what would the round about number be?? Thanks guys


if I were to guess, I would guess $4.00.
however, single NOS t-jet chassis are fetching at least $15.00 on eBay.
and a major seller just sold a case of one hundred (100) NOS t-jet chassis for $2000.00 .
that is $20.00 per single NOS t-jet chassis.
in most cases bulk purchases get a discount.
so now my guess would be, I guess $20.00 apiece!


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## sethndaddy

stock, complete used, I pay up to $10.00 each, thats seems like a fair price. Got a few last show for $8.00.
NOS I would say 13-15 bucks


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## smalltime

> if I were to guess, I would guess $4.00.


Yea,
Fifteen years ago.

Gas is going on four bucks a gallon........Ground beef is 3.99, on a good day.


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## Grandcheapskate

krazikev said:


> Just curious, I have a basic number in my head but if you guys had to guess a number of what a stock complete t jet chassis goes for today what would the round about number be?? Thanks guys


$15. Less than that and you did pretty well.

We sometimes forget just how expensive this hobby was in the 1960s and early 1970s. Gas was 30 cents a gallon. You probably cut lawns for $2-$5. A round of golf was $3. Minimum wage was $2.30 an hour in 1975. And a T-Jet was $2.98 in the late 1960s. The Aurora Electric Lap Counter was $10 - something you hoped would be your BIG Christmas gift.

While the minimum wage has only increased about 4-5 fold, everything else is probably 10 fold. So wheras a T-Jet chassis in the 1960s may have cost anywhere from $1.50-$2.00, the $15 price today is right in the ballpark.

Joe


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## alpink

*request*



smalltime said:


> Yea,
> Fifteen years ago.
> 
> Gas is going on four bucks a gallon........Ground beef is 3.99, on a good day.


the request was for a guess. 
there wasn't even a caveat as to used or NOS. 
didn't ask for an educated guess.
so I guessed.
my prerogative.
I have bought and sold quite a few cases throughout the years and I *KNOW* exactly the going rate.
but that wouldn't have been a guess, now would it?
and it is certainly your prerogative to question my prerogative!
:wave:


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## Dslot

*Calculating Inflationary Prices*



Grandcheapskate said:


> We sometimes forget just how expensive this hobby was in the 1960s and early 1970s ...


Very, very true, Joe.

The *Consumer Price Index (CPI) Inflation Calculator* on the US Government's *Bureau of Labor Statistics* site will give a good estimate of inflationary changes to prices from any year you choose. Simple to use - just enter the price and the year, and it calculates the 2013 equivalent price (or _vice versa_).

There are different methods of calculating inflation, and no one method can be said to be *the* precisely correct one. The BLS formula has been criticised as understating the rate of inflation, but it will give a decent ballpark figure. 

I find the BLS calculator very useful (as well as entertaining). If you can find the original price, you'll be surprised how much your parents _*actually*_ sacrificed to get you that big AFX set that was under the tree that year. 

(Thanks, Mom and Dad.:wave

-- D


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## krazikev

alpink said:


> the request was for a guess.
> there wasn't even a caveat as to used or NOS.
> didn't ask for an educated guess.
> so I guessed.
> my prerogative.
> I have bought and sold quite a few cases throughout the years and I *KNOW* exactly the going rate.
> but that wouldn't have been a guess, now would it?
> and it is certainly your prerogative to question my prerogative!
> :wave:


Thankyou for bringing this up, let me detail my Qs a little here, lets say they are complete origanol working used chassis. now lets run with this guys, thanks for the time


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## Bill Hall

*Perceptions of Value*

Based on the definition, I'm with Ed on this. I figure 10 and 12 bux is fair to middling. Naturally there will be much hairsplitting about the over and unders. They are original chassis available in a somewhat predictable finite quantity. Naturally the word "finite" makes for hand wringing and consternation by those who "over" value them.

Despite the paranoia at the time, we saw that a glut of wobbling AW facsimiles introduced into the market had little effect on the price point. In fact the point continued to climb more or less normally adding just a few percentage points in the last half a dozen years. Based on past observations; I really doubt that the introduction of Dash's fine product will have any bearing on the value of original T-jet chassis. 

Although we recently saw a case sold at a ridiculous price; my gut feeling is that we've approached the ceiling and we will gradually see their value decline. It's a fact of life that those who hold them in such high regard are dying off. It's simply a matter of supply and demand. In 20 years time grampa's old junk will be packed up and returned to the attics and basements from which it came; and or eventually sold off for a fraction of "our" current perception of it's value.


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## smalltime

> I find the BLS calculator very useful (as well as entertaining). If you can find the original price, you'll be surprised how much your parents actually sacrificed to get you that big AFX set that was under the tree that year.


I'm not one to count on ANYTHING the government tells me.

I see this C.P.I. used all the time, and I think that you can't apply it across the board, for everything. I'm usually going to call Barbara Streisand (BS) on most of it's uses.

I remember my dad taking me to Trilby Sport shop in Toledo, Oh. for Magna-traction parts and new cars.....circa '74-75. As I looked at the new Shadows and R.C. cola cars on the wall for three fifty a pop, My dad calls my attention to a fifty five gallon drum FULL of loose T-Jets, with a small sign on the side:

25 cents each


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## Dslot

smalltime said:


> I see this C.P.I. used all the time, and I think that you can't apply it across the board, for everything.


Hi, Smalltime,

Hey, if you have an inflation calculator that you think is more accurate or more generally applicable, I'd be more than happy to look at the link. I'm as suspicious of government information as the next guy.

It's true that you can't apply the government's (or anyone else's) calculations of inflation "across the board, for everything," since no two items increase in nominal price consistently at the same rate. Some have increased steadily and moderately, some have increased enormously in the same period, others (such as computer memory) have actually _decreased_ and are cheaper even in nominal dollars than they ever were in the past, while still others fluctuate wildly over short time spans.

I think the government's CPI provides a decent rough guide - good enough for our purposes, anyway - of the general cost-of-living increases from the Dawn of the Vibrators to the Day of the Landshark. It surely can serve to give you a better idea of how big a slice of your Dad's income it took to buy you a race set in 1967, than just looking at the nominal dollar figure on the box's price sticker does.

-- D


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## swamibob

lets say they are complete origanol working used chassis. now lets run with this guys, thanks for the time[/QUOTE]

Krazikev: 

Given this definition; I can say, I sell NOS T-Jet Chassis at $ 15.00 each and older used ones at $ 10.00 to $ 12.00 depending on condition. I have skinny tire, truck/dune buggy and lighted versions available.

These prices are what I typically see at shows and here on HT.

Tom


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## Shadowracer

Hey I'm a little late in the game here, but just wanted to say its awesome to see this T-Dash coming out. Great job by the guys responsible. I might just yet be able to find a decent, consistent chassis to mount my fairgrounds bodies on! :thumbsup:

Forgive me if this has already been answered. (Went thru both T Dash threads and didnt see it.) WIll this new one also have both the long and short wheelbase holes for the front axles?

Best of luck with the new endeavor!


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## Ralphthe3rd

Shadow..., it'll have all THREE Hole locations, just like the original.


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## shocker36

So when can these fantasic little speed demons be purchased?


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## lenny

shocker36 said:


> So when can these fantasic little speed demons be purchased?


as fast as I can assemble, test and ship. I'll have Jag Hobbies and Andy's first batch in the mail tomorrow. After that, I expect to have all their orders commpleted within a month. Tom will be doing many of the upcoming shows and will have them at those shows.

I'll be selling these retail when these guys first orders are all sent out. I didnt want to compete with them, especially since they waited so long for these. 

Dan


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## slotcarman12078

From past experience, some silicone tires don't like to be stretched even a little. I got a mixed batch of sili's from win43 a ways back, and some of them were very finicky. Just the slightest little stretch to get them on a hub would leave them sloppy on stock T Jet hubs. If I slipped them on without the stretch, they held on fine. Not making excuses, just throwing a hypothetical out there. Testing on Dan's end would prove or disprove this guess.


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## Marty

slotcarman12078 said:


> From past experience, some silicone tires don't like to be stretched even a little. I got a mixed batch of sili's from win43 a ways back, and some of them were very finicky. Just the slightest little stretch to get them on a hub would leave them sloppy on stock T Jet hubs. If I slipped them on without the stretch, they held on fine. Not making excuses, just throwing a hypothetical out there. Testing on Dan's end would prove or disprove this guess.


 I also found original T-Jet wheels were not consistent diameter. Tires were loos on some wheels but not others.

Marty
Marysville, OH
Marty & Doc in the morning
WQTT 1270
http://qt1270.com/


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## Bubba 123

Marty said:


> I also found original T-Jet wheels were not consistent diameter. Tires were loos on some wheels but not others.
> 
> Marty
> Marysville, OH
> Marty & Doc in the morning
> WQTT 1270
> http://qt1270.com/


Ditto, got a bin of T-Jet skinnies that just slip on w/ no grip 2 the hubs :drunk:

Bubba 123 :wave:


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## ajd350

wrong post


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## win43

:wave: I traded to get a Dash chassis. KUDOS Dan!!!!!! Looks good and runs good.
Needs a little tweaking .... BUT so did the originals. Almost made me feel ten years old again. THANKS DAN!!!!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Dragula

Hey Dan,can you IM or call me please? 859-356-1566 im usually up until 3am
Chris "dragjet" Rolph


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## wyatt641

hey dan(lenny)..
how long will it be before you get the dash website up and running again??would like to not only have some chassis but would really love to get some more bodies from you..
dave


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## Dragula

Tom and Joe,you guys have no earthly idea how happy I am having a completely new distraction from people who are just good hearted friends.Dan,thank you for hopefully ensuring the survival and affordability of tjet racing.Thank you to anyone and everyone who has sent well wishes and kind words.
Chris


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## Joe65SkylarkGS

Dragula said:


> Tom and Joe,you guys have no earthly idea how happy I am having a completely new distraction from people who are just good hearted friends.Dan,thank you for hopefully ensuring the survival and affordability of tjet racing.Thank you to anyone and everyone who has sent well wishes and kind words.
> Chris


Great to hear it Chris  

This is what our hobby is all about. Friends making friends happy :wave: with a little distraction from our daily lives.


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