# 1/350 Refit Project



## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Well, after literally years of back-and-forth, I finally decided to plunk down cash for a 1/350 Round 2 _Enterprise_ Refit. I've been quite terrified of this kit, but I just...couldn't...resist!

I'd already joined the 1701 Club, and eagerly await the TOS 1/350. As it stands, I don't even have room to build or display either kit at the moment. However, I'll be moving into a bigger place within the next three years or so, and will have the space at that time.

So, in the meanwhile, I have a fabulous amount of time to slowly accurize and work on subassemblies.

I've already been doing lots of research, and picked up the Aztec Dummy templates, the DLM parts and support craft, the Paragrafix PE set, and the PNT decal sheet. Still looking for the PNT PE, although I wonder if I'll really need it.

I'm planning on going all-out, here. Full lighting, pearlescent paints, the whole deal. I fully anticipate this build taking YEARS.

At the moment, I'm planning on working on the interior subassemblies, and accurizing the various exterior parts. 


First things first...

* I'm torn as to what version to do. I've already set myself to do a Refit, rather than 1701-A. The question is--TMP or TWOK? The TMP version is by far the best-looking of the two, but TWOK is the better film. Really, the differences only come down to the lighting, the pearl coat (dulled or not) and the miniature crewmen paint schemes.

I think I'll probably go full-on TMP.


Links to resources (build threads, tips and hints, etc.) would be much appreciated.


Next, a few questions:

* I've been researching the Trekmodeler lighting kit, and fired off an e-mail, with no response as of yet. THe DIY version would probably be too much work for me, since I'm not an electronics expert. Does (can?) the lighting kit skew toward TMP (red impulse crystal, etc.), or the later films? 

Also, would it be compatible with the Raytheon lighting method, or would extra LEDs be needed for that? Or do the included spotlights mostly negate the need for the Raytheon method?

Also, how accurate is it to the actual lighting schemes seen in the film? From what I've seen, the spotlights are off in warp mode, and the impulse engines are on, which seems incorrect.


* Is an armature really needed for this kit? And, if so, would it interfere with installing lighting effects?

* I'm thinking of adding tiny craft magnets to the shuttles/pods and docking ports, in order to allow them to dock at any of the ports. How feasible is this, considering lighting requirements?

* Any good references.rocommendations for the interior "set" colors, and the exterior accent and detail colors. I don't particularly trust the kit's instructions.



I'm planning on starting with the interiors and other subassemblies. For the hangar, I have a few ideas:

* I presume I can do a full hangar interior whilst using DLM's resin doors as a removable cover for an open OR closed hangar?

* Place workbees in docking slots. 

* Place faux turbolift in one of the tubes, with red lights on tube exterior) indicating its being parked at that level (as per the Probert paintings). Does the Trekmodeler kit allow for lighting of the turbolift tubes?



This is just a start. I've a very long way to go, here. And ideas or suggestions are appreciated!


In the meantime, I'll continue to focus mainly on my smaller projects, while this one proceeds at a very slow pace.


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## Larva (Jun 8, 2005)

Great ideas! Love the magnet idea for the auxiliary craft.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Here's to a magnificent obesession.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Sounds like quite the ambitious build - I'm looking forward to seeing in process shots!

The magnets are a great idea. I seem to remember somebody doing that, but I don't know who. Lighting the shuttles will be tough, but it should be doable with the magnets if you make really tiny contacts (basically bare wires). (Too bad you'd want to paint any PE used as the brass would be perfect to use as one of the two contacts.)


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Paulbo said:


> Sounds like quite the ambitious build - I'm looking forward to seeing in process shots!
> 
> The magnets are a great idea. I seem to remember somebody doing that, but I don't know who. Lighting the shuttles will be tough, but it should be doable with the magnets if you make really tiny contacts (basically bare wires). (Too bad you'd want to paint any PE used as the brass would be perfect to use as one of the two contacts.)


Meh, I don't plan on lighting the shuttles. The travel pods and such look more "correct" with the darkened windows, anyway.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Hi Greg. Are you currently restoring any arcades or just building models?
I have so many models sitting to build that I better get my butt in gear and get to it lol. I need to finish my spindrift and the on to the Space Pod.
I will tackle my refit someday so I will keep an eye on your build,to steal some ideas. Stop by KLOV sometime and say hi.


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## 11b30b4 (Apr 6, 2011)

Gregatron, I anticipate you chronicling your build.
Let me first say that I am no professional in the modeling arena. I started my Big-E in October of 2010. I am still working on it. Admittedly I have taken a month off here and there. But if you plan on doing your best, expect this model to take at least 6 months.

To address some of you plans and questions.
Ratheon lighting vs line of sight
Ratheon method is simply allowing the LEDs to shine through the plastic and create a spot light affect on the hull. This method will allow you illuminate areas that you can not with line of sight lighting. 
Trekmodler uses line of sight lighting. The entire ship must be light blocked prior to building, then each LED shines onto a section of the ship to produce the lighting affect. I feel the Ratheon method provides a more screen accurate affect but I prefer the authenticity of the line of sight.

I chose to use the Trekmodeler DIY kit and have found it to be very helpful and relatively easy to install. The painting and building procedure are the hardest par of the model not the lighting. this was the first model I ever illuminated. Keep in mind that that the Trekmodler kit will require you to alter some of the model parts to provide the clearances need for the spot light affect.

So to answer one of your questions the Trekmodler kit is different from Ratheon lighting but you could go with either method with the stuff provided in the Trekmodler DIY kit. It would be more work to deconstruct a full Trekmodler kit for use with the Ratheon method. Since the Trekmodler DIY kit is only parts it would serve you better if you want to go the Ratheon way. That said, you can also buy everything you need for the Ratheon method for under a 100.00 However, I recommend the Trekmodler DIY kit as it provides some instruction that you will find helpful.

You are correct about warp vs dock mode. The Trekmodler kit is designed to be wired with a two mode switch. In one mode the Warp Nacelles and deflector dish light blue, in dock mode, the spot lights are on, the deflector dish is yellow and the warp nacelles are off.

The armature question is up to you. Decide how plan on displaying it before you start. The lighting kit from Trekmodler is designed to work with a 9-12v dc power inverter. that means it must be plugged in. So how do you plan on doing this. The most popular method is to replace the standard display post with the Trekmodler post and build a new display stand, however, it is not inconceivable to hand the model and run the power wire from above.

The magnet idea is very original ad I think it would be a cool addition. It should not be too difficult to accomplish.

I do not know if the DLM hanger doors are removable or not but yes you build the full hanger and put it in the ship. On the Paragrafix PE kit are doors in the open position and it is what I am doing.

Lighting the turbolifts is tricky. they are solid and I attempted to drill mine out. Even on the slowest setting, my dremmel was way to fast and the plastic melted to the drill bit. I ended up drilling them about half way by hand. I then inserted an LED in the top of each one. It would be very difficult to place a cart in one. Even if you can figure out how to do it, its most likely not worth the effort because they are so small and all the way back in the hanger bay. by the time you add shuttles and figures it would be difficult to even see it.

As for references, There are tons of builds on the internet. I found helihobby’s videos to be the best source for me. He has a series of 9 videos of his build that will answer a lot of questions and show some ideas about techniques as well as problem areas. He also has a 9 minute move shot in HD of his completed model with the Trekmodler lighting kit.





Also check out my build. I reference issues, how to’s, and links to suppliers in my build. Shoot me an e-mail if you have questions and good luck.
http://www.therpf.com/f11/jeffs-1-350-refit-enterprise-97477/


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## hell_fighter_8 (Oct 4, 2005)

As for which version, might I suggest a combination of the 2. TWOK lighting with TMP paint. Also how about adding switches to your model. A switch for the impulse engines, warp engines, torpedo launchers and for the dish (amber/blue). You can put the switches in the stand. I would also recommend using the fore mentioned Ratheon method over line of sight. It looks so much better then line of sight I've considering ripping mine apart.


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Good for you in overcoming your fears! I have 2 of these, both in the box and I can't get over being daunted by the task ahead....so they stay in their boxes. I look at Trekmodeler's build and just put them back on the shelf.

Best of luck to you!

Tib


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Tiberious said:


> I have 2 of these, both in the box and I can't get over being daunted by the task ahead....so they stay in their boxes. I look at Trekmodeler's build and just put them back on the shelf.


I'm glad I'm not the only one that feels this way. I've opened the box a few times, thought about it, and put it away again.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Tiberious said:


> . I look at Trekmodeler's build and just put them back on the shelf.
> Tib


Yes, between Trekmodelers & Nemvia.
Pretty disheartening, isn't it? 
-Jim


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Thanks for the advice, guys! I'm not even touching this until I have all the necessary materials, as well as a plan of action. All I've done so far is remove the parts for the sprues and bag them up according to subassembly. I haven't even washed the mold release off, yet.


I have a simple idea for the hangar turbolifts--does the Trekmodeler kit include lighting for the tubes, specifically? I think it would be simple to light-block an area of one tube to represent a turbolift inside the tube, with the clear red indicator light surrounding it.


I'd like to install switches for different lighting functions, but that's a bit beyond my skill level!

Ideally, I'd like to have two screen-accurate modes:

Impulse (crystal/impulse engines lit, spotlights on, amber--switchable to blue--deflector dish).

Warp (crystal/impulse engines off, nacelle grilles on, spotlights on, blue deflector dish.


I think I'd prefer the Raytheon effect, since it allows for lighting of those impossible-in-reality areas, like the "Enterprise" on the fantail. I'd also rather not heighten the bridge in order to have line-of sight illumination of the registry. But I'm not sure how to get that to work in conjunction with the Trekmodeler kit. An electrician I am not! I've never lit a kit before!

The Trekmodeler kit looks awesome, but my nitpicks would be the spotlight issue and the not-quite-screen-accurate (but very cool) standby and warp modes.

Really, my preferred way to go would be switches for each function (deflector dish, spotlights, nacelles, impulse engines/crystal, etc.). This would allow me to replicate all of the different lighting effects seen in the movies. 

*How* to do that, though...


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## hell_fighter_8 (Oct 4, 2005)

You don't need to be an electrician. Using LED's is actually very easy once you understand them a bit. Try reading/watching some LED tutorials, like this one http://unclean.org/howto/led_circuit.html. Then you can do your lighting the way you want to if you decide not to go with one of the lighting kits. LED's are very cheap too. As for you flasher/strobe effects, there are several people on here who sell ready to go circuit boards. Another nice thing about LED's is there are bi-color ones. Basically with a flip of a switch the led can go from off, to blue, to amber for example. Plus there are plenty of people here who you can pick their brains.


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## 11b30b4 (Apr 6, 2011)

Gregatron, you really need to look at my build.
http://www.therpf.com/f11/jeffs-1-350-refit-enterprise-97477/
Start at the beginning and read all 5 of the pages as I address the Turbolifts as well as a “how to” on the LEDs. I am pushing my thread because I know whats in it. Like I said I am not a pro but I am busting my butt. To add another reason, I knew nothing about LEDs when I started and I have overcome the learning curve you are quickly approaching. Having said all that, if you use the Trekmodler kit it does not address the Turbolifts specifically. 

The supplied Turbolifts with the PL kit are solid clear plastic. you could wire an led in the top of them and the LEd will illuminate the tubes. When I tested this I found that the light was not uniform through the length of the tubes. I then decided to hollow them out. As I said in my previous post, this will need to be done by hand as most drills and dremels run at too high a speed and the plastic will simply melt to the bit. I link where to get the hand vice I used and the bits in my build.










You could mask and pain an elevator in the tube and still light the tube.

You can light the shuttles










And you may want to look at options with fiber optics




























The lighting options you are interested in are possible but with you will have to wire the model different from how the Trekmodler instructions are designed.

Let me explain the Trekmodler lighting kit so that you have a better grasp.
The kit will come with all the LEDs you will need as well as a few extras. I ended up buying a lot more LEDs off ebay because I added several LEDs that are not directed in the kit (like the turbolifts). The kit also comes with the wiring, resistors, switches, and the circuit board. I also ended up buying more wiring, resistors, and a chaser circuit board so that I could have chaser lights on the shuttle bay runway. I also bought fiber optic cables. 










The Trekmodler kit circuit board has 6 circuits on it. each circuit is wired to a chip that directs power to that circuit based on the position of the two supplied switches. One switch is on/off the other is warp/dock. Because all the circuits pass through the circuit board, it would be hard but not impossible to wire the spot light to be on in warp mode. But this is not how the kit is set up. You could simply bypass the circuit board and wire the spot lights independently to a third switch. 

The Trekmodler kit is designed to be wired for line of sight but if you get the DIY kit, you could do the Ratheon method with relative ease. The advantage you get with the kit is that it includes the strobing circuit so all the strobes blink at the same rate, (this is posable because of the chip on the circuit board. Additionally, you get the navigation lights blink rate as screen accurate blink rate (for the red and greens).










LED 101
LEDs are wired in series or parallel
Series = for every LED there is a resistor
Parallel = on resistor for all the LEDs in the circuit.
Parallel circuits require you to calculate the power in the circuit and the draw of each LED to determine the size of the resistor.

I find it easier to wire in series rather than parallel because I simply add a resistor to each LED then use as many as I want. 










With the Trekmodler circuit board the strobes and navigation lights are wired in parallel but the other circuits are series and are very easy to work with. Keep in mind that the strobes and navigation lights have no resistors on the LED (the resistors are on the circuit board) so when testing a LED you have hot glued to the model you will need to temporally adda resistor or you will burn out the LED. I did this several times and had to replace several LEDs.

Hope this helps


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

11b30b4 said:


> Gregatron, you really need to look at my build.


Oh, don't worry--I've been keeping tabs on it. I should probably go back and re-read the thread. 

And I've seen every YouTube video, blog, and build tutorial I've been able to find. Your work is among my favorites, and I look forward to seeing the final result!

I'm already getting a headache reading about the electronics stuff! I have some very minimal experience with soldering and circuit boards (mostly repai/resoldering work on some wires that got loose from various boards I've worked with), but that's it.

I think I'd prefer to go with the Raytheon effect, which is more controllable. This would simply(?) require soldering more LEDs to the appropriate area of the circuit board, yes?

It also appears in some videos that the Trekmodeler strobes stay illuminated in-between each strobe-flash, which is not screen-correct. Is this true?


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## 11b30b4 (Apr 6, 2011)

Gregatron, I am not sure what you mean about the strobes. All the strobes flash together and hen they are not flashing they are off. Actually they are not really strobe LED at all. They are white LEDs that flash on/ off due to the circuit board. The same is true for the navigation lights. There are strobe LEDs you can purchase that flash without the need for a circuit board. These are available in a variety of flash rates; however the Trekmodler kit circuit board will strobe the supplied LEDs at the screen correct flash rate.

I think the Ratheon method will work out for you well. Enjoy the build and let me know if you have other questions. I will help with what I can.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Hey, what's up with this?

Anyone heard about it or used it?

http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/shop/index.cfm/product/2133_23/ultimate-model-lighting-board.cfm


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Gregatron said:


> Hey, what's up with this?
> 
> Anyone heard about it or used it?
> 
> http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/shop/index.cfm/product/2133_23/ultimate-model-lighting-board.cfm


Sweet. Looks like a custom micro-controller.


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## 11b30b4 (Apr 6, 2011)

Hummm, interesting. But 325.00??? I think the Trekmodler kit does everything I would want. Also its out of stock at this time.


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## NemVia (Jan 6, 2007)

11b30b4 said:


> Hummm, interesting. But 325.00??? I think the Trekmodler kit does everything I would want. Also its out of stock at this time.


Yes, unfortunately at the time of this posting the website says that they are out of stock! How long to wait? Who knows.

But, a question about your build:

In your first posting you mentioned accuratizing as much as possible. I don't mean to throw water on the fire but will you be accuratizing the hanger bay to the proper scale og the ship. After getting the secondary hull of my polar lights model together I realized way to far into the project that the hanger was way too narrow for the width of the hull and not deep enough into the ship so that the corridors that supposedly lead to the docking ports missed their marks by a long-shot.

The one thing I wish I had done with this model, since I was going to display it with the hanger doors open, was to widen that interior piece out a little so there would be more room for other details such as you are planning for your build. 
I have since purchased 2 more refit models and I've looked over the amount of space between the interior piece and the outter hull and decided that it would be possible to add these details to the hanger. Fortunately, not much below the main landing deck is very visible so there will be room to add some of the electronics under there and if I still need more room, there is always plenty of space in the saucer section to run wires from the circuit boards down to the LEDs or what ever lighting you're planning on using.

If you are planing to accuratize the hanger to that degree, I would love to see how you will be tackling this problem. I've built some hanger deck pieces to fit inside the hull of a DeBoers model and there is a lot more room to add shuttles, pods and workbees because of the width and depth of the hanger being wider and deeper. I plan to do this with my 2 PLE builds when I get around to them. The PLE can be quite expensive to purchase nowadays and even though it takes a lot of work to complete, it is still one of the most accurate and intricate models of the big E to build. I enjoyed every challenge it had to offer including adding the outer hatches on the primary hull, lighting the model and mounting it in it's drydock. 

There are a lot of great model builders in this forum and I enjoy seeing everybody's work on this particular model and I hope your build will be as fulfilling. I will keep up with your work on this project. I just had to ask about the hanger. Of course whatever you decide to do is your choice, and best wishes on your build!

Mark :wave:


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

NemVia said:


> Yes, unfortunately at the time of this posting the website says that they are out of stock! How long to wait? Who knows.
> 
> But, a question about your build:
> 
> ...



I've been looking into widening the cargo deck to include the correct four-container width. Others have done it, with very nice results.

A forced-perspective cargo deck (which is kinda what the stock kit looks like) isn't really necessary, here. It can all be made to fit well, and still allow for lighting.


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## eagledocf15 (Nov 4, 2008)

*Ratheon Method*



11b30b4 said:


> Gregatron, I am not sure what you mean about the strobes. All the strobes flash together and hen they are not flashing they are off. Actually they are not really strobe LED at all. They are white LEDs that flash on/ off due to the circuit board. The same is true for the navigation lights. There are strobe LEDs you can purchase that flash without the need for a circuit board. These are available in a variety of flash rates; however the Trekmodler kit circuit board will strobe the supplied LEDs at the screen correct flash rate.
> 
> I think the Ratheon method will work out for you well. Enjoy the build and let me know if you have other questions. I will help with what I can.


Is the Ratheon Method the use of internal lighting to mimic the external saucer lighting? is there references for this? Thanks


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## NemVia (Jan 6, 2007)

Gregatron said:


> I've been looking into widening the cargo deck to include the correct four-container width. Others have done it, with very nice results.
> 
> A forced-perspective cargo deck (which is kinda what the stock kit looks like) isn't really necessary, here. It can all be made to fit well, and still allow for lighting.



That will be great and it will be a nice challenge for your build. I'm looking forward to seeing this done. I'll keep an eye on your progress. Best wishes on your WIP.

Mark


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## Edge (Sep 5, 2003)

eagledocf15 said:


> Is the Ratheon Method the use of internal lighting to mimic the external saucer lighting? is there references for this? Thanks


Here is Ian's WIP page for the his first Raytheon effect build:

http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipplent.html


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## 11b30b4 (Apr 6, 2011)

eagledocf15, Edge beat me to the punch. The answer is yes and his link to Ian’s web page actually has two separate builds using what is referred to as the Raytheon method of internal lights that mimic exterior spot lights. At least one of the builds on his site has downloadable templates for the placement of the LEDs and corresponding light blocking.

Gregatron, interesting idea on expanding the shuttlebay. I would suggest that you dry fit all the electronics and arboretum before you start the shuttlebay. I have found that the fit is very tight with just the trekmodler board, chaser landing light board, all the lighting, and the fiber optics. As you can see from these photos, there is a ton of stuff that will go inside the hull. Also, keep in mind that you need to cut out and install the connection plug for the stand, this will require you to beef -up the area around the plug because all the weight of the modle will be supported from this one point.





































Hope this helps


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## 11b30b4 (Apr 6, 2011)

Gregatron, I just stumbled upon someone with a ton of parts for the 1/350 refit. You may have a need for a few spares and here is a cheap way to get them. here its the link 
http://www.therpf.com/f11/350th-refit-replacement-parts-135047/


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Excellent! Thanks for the link.


Anyhoo, I really do need to get all of the parts and such together before I do ANYTHING with the kit. In my experience 70% of the work on a kit is R & D and planning.

The electronics would be the big concern, right now. Still wondering which way to go on that. Without that element nailed down, I can't proceed with any mods to any parts.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Been putting some more thought into this:

* I've been considering the possibility of placing brass rods in selected areas (pylons, dorsal) for strucural reinforcement, as opposed to a full--and space-consuming--armature.

* What glues, fillers, and such are best for assembly of the main body parts?


Still wondering about electronics. Trekmodeler is a possibility, but, as noted, the functionality of certain aspects is kinda off-putting, in terms of screen-accuracy.

There are also a few other lighting kits out there (like the Evans Lighting kit at Culttvman), but there seems to be little info/reviews on them.

Ideally, I'd love to go the Ian Lawrence route, with separate switches for separate functions (although not as many as his build, with the separate spotlight circuits and such).

This control panel is way cool, and I'd love something along those lines:

http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/wipplentcom19.html


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I'm slowing acquiring materials and references for this.

I'm also looking into commissioning a custom electronics system which will meet my needs.

Still undecided as to whether or not to use the Raytheon method for all spots, or a combo of Raytheon and line of sight spots.

Also, any recommendations for LED colors and such (white vs. soft white for the windows, etc.).


Another matter has come up--I don't really like the stock kit's stand location, and, from what I've seen, many builds place the mount beneath the arboretum, which looks better. Is it possible to maintain a structurally stable model _without_ running a stand/pole through the arboretum (which I hope to superdetail)?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Still can't decide whether to go with external spots or the internal illumination effect.

After some simple testing with an LED flashlight, I must say it doesn't really look like the reissue 1/350 kit's plastic would have a yellow look if I lit it from within. Hmmm.


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## NemVia (Jan 6, 2007)

Another matter has come up--I don't really like the stock kit's stand location, and, from what I've seen, many builds place the mount beneath the arboretum, which looks better. Is it possible to maintain a structurally stable model _without_ running a stand/pole through the arboretum (which I hope to superdetail)?[/QUOTE]

Well, as I recall, the arboretum is supported by to pieces of plastic that span the width of the engineering hull. There is no reason why you cant put a piece of flat metal stock about 1" in width and an 1.5" in length through two slits cut into those pieces with a small disc gringer. This could support the weight of the model. You can cut notches in the top of your support armature to allow wiring to be fed through to the base. At least this is what I would do. Just a suggestion. My next PL build I am going to have the ship supported on one of the sides of the engineering section, much like the filming miniature is so I can mount the model in a display case that will hang on a wall.

Mark


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Yeah, after doing a little more research, it appears that the rod can be mounted under the aboretum without going _through_ it. It just needs to be secured really well.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I'm looking into getting some frisket film so as to print the Pendragon aztec martix templates.

I intend to use the Aztec Dummy masks for the main aztecs, and then the Pengragon matrix set for the various layers of paneling.


Any suggestions as to what type of frisket film to get?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

So, I'm working on planning out an electronics system for this, and two key issues have come up:


1. About how many LEDs would be necessary for all the lighting (windows, warp/impulse/RSC/deflector light effects, Raytheon effects, hangar, etc.)?

2. What colors do you guy suggest for various areas (the white windows, the incandescent-looking white blinkers, the impulse engines, etc.)?


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Well am still at the building stage but I give you a number for my secondary hull. The final LED count is 28 in total that light up the hangar, secondary hull, arboretum, main dish, torpedo launcher and all the flood lights. Right now I am building the warp nacelles and there are going to be 8 LEDs in each warp nacelle, giving a total of 16 LEDs for those. This makes for 44 LEDs without the saucer and I assume a similar number will go in to the saucer. So I'd count around 80 - 90 LEDs in total to light up the Refit. That is about what I had estimated since 100 LEDs @ 20mA is the maximum I can power with my wall socket power supply. I use 300 Ohms resistor which is double the size required, but I was not sure if I could hold the 6V power supply as the number of LEDs increases and wanted to be on the save side in case I have to increase the voltage. 

As for the color, I mainly use 5 or 3mm cold white LEDs. Those run at 20mA, different color LEDs tend to run at a different currents resulting in a mix mash of power drain along your circuits. Only exceptions on the white are the amber and blue LEDs for the main deflector, but those also run at 20mA, or so the electronic vendor assured me. I use LED paint you can use to color white LEDs to any color you want, it's something like nail polish. For example the dish and nacelle fin RCTs are white LEDs painted yellow. Since the warp nacelles have clear pieces, the impulse engine and the crystal are also clear I see no problem to paint those with the required color too or use transparent color foil.

Oh and the cold white LEDs make for perfectly fine white view ports


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## NemVia (Jan 6, 2007)

Yes, that seems about right. I believe I had over 120 LEDs in my PLE build total. Your lighting test looks great. Looking forward to more pics.
Mark


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Nice docking port lights, Garbaron!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Gregatron said:


> Any suggestions as to what type of frisket film to get?



I have an old roll of Badger brand and it's still pretty good.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Garbaron said:


> So I'd count around 80 - 90 LEDs in total to light up the Refit.


My total LED count for this model was right around there as well.


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