# HELP! ...Non-redundant Controller Question



## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

Alright, 

I finally got the time and the means to make an upgrade to real controllers and have a question on RESISTORS specifically. I run mostly jl and aurora tjets and magnatractions with an occassional g-plus and 440. So i figured i'll get a set of 5 (1 spare) BRP 120 ohm controllers and rewire them per HO WORLD article with switches and additional resistors in order to get the ohm adjustability i need for each class car. Then when I reread the HO WORLD article for the millionth time this evening, I noticed that they specify that you must use a 120 ohm resistor with a low band on it such as theirs or it will not work. When I went back and looked at the BRP 120 ohm resistors I don't see a low band!?

So my question to you all is this...

CAN I WIRE A BRP 120 OHM CONTROLLER PER THE HO WORLD ARTICLE FOR MULTIPLE OHMS SETTINGS OR DO I HAVE TO BUY PARMAS AND THE HO WORLD 120 OHM RESISTORS IN ORDER TO ACCOMPLISH THIS? 

:freak:


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

Not sure if those instructions at HO World will help with a BRP resistor, but to be safe just put a couple of the 120 ohm resistors in a controller, and leave the others the way they are. That way you have a couple controllers for the JL's, and a couple for the magnet cars.


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## co_zee (Mar 28, 2005)

I am not sure what information is available at HO World but give this link a look. Steve knows his stuff when it comes to electronics!

Siberia Racing's Controller Tech Page


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## tjettim (Nov 29, 2005)

*controllers*

I have been down the road you are heading.
Just buy the latest J&S or Difalco and be done.
You can drive Tjets all the way to unlimiteds
with the twist of a knob.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

AfxToo you hit the nail on the head. I just emailed an inquiry i'll let you all know the result. I also would like to here additional input on mid range controllers as you mentioned. 

Thanks for everyones input so far :thumbsup:


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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

This was a pretty informative thread/discussion on controllers that we had here a few months back:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=109967

Mike(ice9)


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I have the $45 Professor Motor controller with no addons. I think it was called the Silver Series when i bought it about three years ago. It works great with Aurora T-Jets, Aurora Tuffones, AFX, AFX Magna-Tractions, AFX G-Plus, Tomy Turbo, Tomy Super G-Plus, Tomy (Racemasters) SRT, and JL X-Tractions. I find the JL Tuff Ones to be a little jumpy still with this controller. 

I also use this controller for my 1/32nds, 1/43rds and 1/24ths and it works well with all of those. However at full throttle my cars wil go slightly faster with my resistor type controllers.

I really like my HO World 125 ohm controller for my JL Tuff Ones.

And over all I prefer to use resistor type controllers.

Another thing to consider with electronic controllers is, if the people using them aren't very familiar with slots and controllers, they can be easily burn out the diodes if they hook it up with the wrong polarity.


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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

I plan on getting myself the Professor Motor PMTR2052 for myself for Xmas:

http://www.professormotor.com/cat_controls.shtml

I have taken my 25 ohm Parma as far as I could take it.Time to step up.

I thought about some of the other high end controllers.Its not the price so much that scares me away as it is all of the circuit boards and do dads that are hanging out of them.

Mike(ice9)


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Hitting more than one nail right on the head...*



AfxToo said:


> 1)exploring simpler and less expensive forms of racing
> 
> 2)the bar needs to be lowered and the fancy equipment needs to take a back seat to the sportmanship and fun of racing cars that aren't that far removed from the toys that we used to get as presents for Christmas.
> 
> ...


Mr. Too you are _*not*_ alone. You make some of the most basic sensible points I've heard expressed in a LONG time. For me in my little HO world, simple fun is the key. I swapped out the stock resistors in my Parma Econos for a pair of 120's. Don't get me wrong, the cars run better, not such an "on-off" switch feeling, but they're no more fun than they were before. I thought about taking an even bigger step controller-wise (knobs, switches, etc) and then I remembered way back...there was this kid from down the street, when I was young. When a bunch of us got together to race slots, he'd always have the next higher and faster level of car. After a few outings where he smoked everybody on every race, we all fell into a rut of trying to out do him. We spent lots of money and ended up making things alot less fun. Didn't take long before it all got old. My point is...don't forget the fun factor.


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## DACSIGNS (Aug 18, 2004)

Tjd and Afxtoo made some great points that hit home. We recently completed X2s and lifelike seasons and I made a more serious effort to try to build competitve chassis with less than stellar results. All the time put into a lot of motors, and hours of testing didnt gain me anything but frustration. I now made a decision to keep the cars pretty close to stock, and be content to run mid-pack. Never took the time to build any new bodies even. Controllers arent an issue with us as the tracks supply them and they are all the same. I'm gonna have fun with our upcoming classes of non mag AFX and magnetractions, dammit! At least with these cars I can see them fishtail just before they de-slot and smack the wall!

Here's to havin fun again!---DAC


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## Gear Head (Mar 22, 2005)

After much debate with myself and outstanding input from all of you I am sticking with my gut feeling and going with the BRP 120 controllers. I'll try the HoWorld or Siberian racing multiple ohm rating modifications to the 5th (spare) controller before doing it to all of them. I must confess, I was almost sold on the PM controllers after your input and checking out the web site. However, after placing specific inquiries since this post to PM, I never heard a word back from them. Meanwhile, BRP was right there with honest, punctual answers. SOLD Thanks again to all! Keep it fun! :thumbsup:


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

Over the last 15 years I have purchased probably 20 different controllers. Some for variance and some just general replacement Parmas for the track. Have tried 15 ohm resistors through 60 ohms. Have run nice Parma Turbos but never one gun that would span the range of different needs.

A couple of years ago I bought a PM controller and have never looked back. I believe I bought the TR2050 model.

If you think about it, spending a little extra $$$ on a good controller isn't a bad idea. It is a vital component to your slot racing and won't need any upgrades or replacement parts for years, as opposed to the slot cars it controls.  

-Scott V.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

Scott.......

I had my eye on this one since you mentioned it awhile back.Im wondering tho,does it have variable brakes????????


Mike(ice9)


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

AFX2:

That was what I thought,but I figured I would ask.Ya never know.

Ive been playing with brakes a lot layely,but dont like the way they are full on.I guess Santa wil be bringing me the 2052 after all.


Mike(ice9)


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

I think you can add an adjustable brake trim POT with a kit he sells. You can see the spot on the circuit board for it.

Brake kit- $24.95:
http://www.professormotor.com/pmtr2038.shtml

One thing though- I don't race TJets so I can't say how well this controller works for those. I have run a few around my track but they usually can't make it around the bank.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

AfxToo said:


> I never use brakes with magnet cars but I would if I could adjust them.


I have been experimenting with brakes a lot lately with my magnet cars.Mind you,I am still using a 25 ohm Parma,but having done a lot of experimenting,I am certain that if I was able to have some sort of adjustment as to the amount,it would definetly benifit my driving.

I can definetly run my G3 SS cars WAY deeper into the turns with them,and driving my SS Storms with them has dropped my lap times on my track considerably.On my ceramic mod cars,they are worthless.

Not to hijack the thread any more ten it has already been,but what exactly does it mean when they say a controller has a "choke" adjustment?????

Mike(ice9)


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

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## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

Thanks for the detailed response.I understand it a little better now.

Not really something that was on my controller wish list,but I suppose it will be something to mess around with when I do my controller upgrade in the next few weeks.

Thinking about it while doing a few hot laps this evening,I guess I see how it could be useful.

Mike


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

I purchased an affordable variable ohm controller from Joe at Nostalgia Hobbies. He has a 3 way toggle switch for 35,45,60 ohms. I wish I got one with a higher ohm variable (60,90,120). The JL's are still jumpy and really not enjoyable. But for an affordable, adjustable controller, this was a pretty good deal when you have to purchase for four lanes. I should by the HO world 120 ohm resistor and modify my Parma 45's.
Jim


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## T-jetjim (Sep 12, 2005)

AFX too- Wow, I didn't realize the latest and greatest controllers had that kind of technology. POTS seems like one more variable to get right. It seems like it would take out the best part of racing T-jets, coming out of the turns at full throttle! I am sure it has its place but I am glad that I am not at that level. You and DAC are right - keep it simple!
Jim


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