# "WARNING! Sensors detect another LiS Robot build!"



## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

What a fun build! Kudos to Gary Kerr and Moebius for another awesome kit -- as well as to Paul Bodensiek and the folks at Mechlabs for the cool photo etch and chest lights, respectively.

I was originally going to go for the "clean and shiny, smooth-surface" look, but the more I thought about it the more I found myself favoring a good ol' "60's super 8 movie projector" industrial metal texture. Added a bit of weathering here and there with oils and pastel -- just enough to convey a slightly used look.

Did I mention what fun build this was?


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Fantastic looking B-9 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 
I love the weathering you done on Ol' Bubble Head. It looks great.
I'm working on this same model now. And I am going for the spit polished look. But after seeing your weathered version, I will definitely build the next one (I have three) to look weathered.

What color did you use on the torso ???


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Fantastic work on the Robot!
I'm also going for the clean look on my robot build, But I'm loving that slightly weathered look you brought to the booby.:thumbsup:

I'm waiting on my paint order to arrive before i can do any more work to it.

After viewing your robot, I'm really liking the extended arms.(I'm planning on using the retracted arms on my kit, But may do a first season version later
With the extended arms)

Your painting skills really bring him to life.
What type of paint did you use for the robot's arms/Leg bellow's?


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Carson, what did you use for the textured torso? *I like!* I think it _needs_ it.

Carl-


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Beautiful booby!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

DCH10664 said:


> What color did you use on the torso ???


That's Tamiya Bare Metal Silver straight out of the rattle can. On a tip from my buddy GKvfx I undercoated with rattle can "textured surface" from Rustoleum.

For the legs and arms I used a flat, medium "battleship hull" grey dry-brushed with light grey oil paint. 

BEWARE however that the plastic Moebius used for the arms and legs does not like either acrylic or synthetic lacquer-based paints. Adhesion posed a real problem, and although I managed to achieve full coverage I take care to not touch the finished surfaces. In time I fully expect the paint to flake off, at which point I'll most likely have to swap out the arms and legs for new (unpainted) replacement parts. Pity, because I really like the flatter, dry-brushed effect.

Because I'm hopelessly incompetent when it comes to electronics I never considered trying to light the bubble dome's sensors. I did, however, stumble upon an acceptable solution for the yellow "eye" holes: bright yellow pin striping tape, sandwiched between the plastic kit parts and the photo-etch facade plates. There's no substitute for a good electronic lighting effect of course, but for us electronically challenged builders the bright yellow tape really "pops" (much more so than paint, I found).


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Carson Dyle said:


> That's Tamiya Bare Metal Silver straight out of the rattle can. On a tip from my buddy GKvfx I undercoated with rattle can "textured surface" from Rustoleum.
> 
> For the legs and arms I used a flat, medium "battleship hull" grey dry-brushed with light grey oil paint.
> 
> ...


I used some of that duplicoat vinyl spray on my robot in hopes that the Tamiya light gun metal lacquer-based spray paint i'm planning on using will adhire to the legs/arms
with little to no flaking.

Will post the results later.
still waiting on the paints to arrive.

I saw some of that textured paint the other day, and was thinking about using it for the same thing, But was not sure how it would react with the lacquer-based Tamiya spray.
Maby not a bad idea to pick up can after all? again, Beautiful rendition of the Robot!


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## HOBBYENTHUSIAST (Feb 23, 2015)

Carson Dyle said:


> What a fun build! Kudos to Gary Kerr and Moebius for another awesome kit -- as well as to Paul Bodensiek and the folks at Mechlabs for the cool photo etch and chest lights, respectively.
> 
> I was originally going to go for the "clean and shiny, smooth-surface" look, but the more I thought about it the more I found myself favoring a good ol' "60's super 8 movie projector" industrial metal texture. Added a bit of weathering here and there with oils and pastel -- just enough to convey a slightly used look.
> 
> Did I mention what fun build this was?


You did a very good job on programming bay and power pack. I see for the programming bay you did not use the decals. I am very worried with the detail of painting these 2 parts and probably would be difficult for me 2 do.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I noticed the bottom part of the bubble was painted.... When did that happen?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

um, always? oops looked again. the inner one closest to the lifter should be painted. the main plate? not so much


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

HA! I just noticed that.

Ah, well, easy fix. The entire neck/bubble/ brain assembly is tacked together with canopy glue. It'll be easy to swap out the lower bubble half for a new one. 

Thanks for the heads up!


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