# Black Goop Needed



## adiaz (Nov 26, 2012)

I have a Green Hornet Aurora Black Beauty car that is desperate for window post repair.

I have no spare black aurora cars from which to make black goop.

What is the best bas plastic to use for Black Goop??

I thought a section of original Aurora lock and joiner track. But isn't that a slightly different plastic? Seems a bit more brittle than body plastic.

I don't have any "junk" track and it seems a shame to break a perfectly good section of track just to make goop.

So, I am appealing to my fellow slotters for Black plastic donations.

Thanks 
Al


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## sidejobjon (Jun 3, 2010)

Al,
I hate to wreck the highly collectable SHADOW. LOL
I would think this is the lease valuble Black slot car
But Bill the master will answer this better.
SJJ


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

Black Elva.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Track???


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Al, PM me your mailing address. I have black Aurora bodies for you.


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

Black Shadow is my first choice. 

Worst case you can use the inside of your existing body as a donor if you don't need much material (like a minor window post repair). Clean the inside of the body and place a few drops of Testors on an inconspicuous inside surface, let site for a few seconds and then use an exacto blade to scrape some plastic off the body as it liquefies. Not nearly as good as the Bill Hall technique but will work in a pinch if you don't need much material and don't mind marking the inside of the body. 

It was a Mike Vitale technique that has worked for me when I did not have the needed scrap material.


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## torredcuda (Feb 1, 2004)

I made a batch of black goop from junk track but have only used it to repair track so not sure how it will work on bodies.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Track is a different type of plastic. It will turn to a goopy substance which hardens after a lengthy cure time. But will it work? Well.... maybe. I've tried unsuccessfully to repair a black Jag with the stuff, but I lack Bill's patience and skills. I imagine it would work great for making custom track though. 

If you have a black 101 Shadow I'd cook it!! There's tons of NOS bodies out there!


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## tazman052186 (Oct 19, 2005)

I would like to see a video on how goop is made. I read alot about but not sure how to make it.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

you use shavings or small chopped up pieces of plastic from an original Aurora body, the color you desire, and you put it in a small jar with Testors brand #3502 liquid model cement/glue.
the glue will melt the plastic into a tar and depending on the amount of each will have different consistencies. 
perhaps the easiest way to start using Testors 3502 glue is straight out of the bottle to repair a crack on a test body. 
beware, clear plastic does NOT play well with this stuff. so you might have to remove windows before attempting.
I also have brushed it on the insides of tan (very brittle and prone to breaking easily) bodies as an experiment to see if it will rejuvenate the plastic. 
I have heard of some folks "floating" the outside surface of bodies to "heal" small scratches. 
but ....
overall, a complete reading of Bill Hall's Model Murdering thread is in order, there are some videos there and a lot of still pics with word descriptions of exactly what is done.
further, I have heard that Mike Vitale is the original GOOPer and has a book out on plastic body repairs. don't know for sure though.
only way to know if YOU are a GOOPer is to try.
I am afraid. very, very afraid. 
LOL


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## adiaz (Nov 26, 2012)

Gooping is easy as pie!

Different mixtures of MEK Testors glue and plastic for different repairs.
50/50 thick goop good for large repairs fill in screw posts etc.

75/25 MEK to Plastic repair small dings nicks and such

85/15 MEk to palstic makse a good wash and is airbrushible for final finish


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## tazman052186 (Oct 19, 2005)

Cool Thanks! I now understand Goop a little more.


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## adiaz (Nov 26, 2012)

sidejobjon said:


> Al,
> I hate to wreck the highly collectable SHADOW. LOL
> I would think this is the lease valuble Black slot car
> But Bill the master will answer this better.
> SJJ


I hate killing any complete slot!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Due to the Elva's thicker cross section, it is first my choice for hard graft stock. For bulk liquid stock there's no substitute for the AFX Shadow. Very few accents make for easy prep. Slice-dice-done.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Bill Hall said:


> Due to the Elva's thicker cross section, it is first my choice for hard graft stock. For bulk liquid stock there's no substitute for the AFX Shadow. Very few accents make for easy prep. Slice-dice-done.


So Bill, the AFX and Aurora black will play well together? I thought they are different and can work if no other Aurora black is available?


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I am a a recent Gooper, newbie and let me say it works great, work slow, let it dry thoroughly, add only when you see after sanding that more is needed, The old saying less is more, is true here. I did not care what color I made so I found some runners from a plastic model I had (I save almost everything) and used them, it worked great as I am painting this part anyway, when I am done. I was addid parts for a custom and it is very strong when dry. Color match would be the trick, if you needed it, and finding a small jar to mix in as you can quickly get way more goop melting than you will use.

Boosted


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Basic black....always in style*

For black repairs, I use the Shadow and Elva exclusively. This is because there are never issues between AFX and T-jet BODIES...the results speak for themselves.

The ACTUAL issues with black are always related to basic technique, cleanliness and sanitation during the process to limit inclusions, and proper color blending on the work piece.

Given the amount of time required to execute repairs and the cost of materials; I only use what I know works. Based only on success; not cost, convenience, or what if's. 












Just coarse buffed at this point. Body and grafts are T-jet. Filler is AFX. The blend is below the hood around the entire front end including the fenders.












3 stage buff. Body is T-jet. Filler is AFX. The blend is across the nose and hood of both.













3 stage buff. Body is T-jet. Filler is AFX. The blend is across the roof including the A&B pillars.



Shown above, all repairs are completely fused allowing color sanding and buffing to an original finish. Parent and donor are one. Fusion and adhesion are two different things.




*****************

Adhesion....

Neither AFX or T-jet will blend/fuse completely with Speed line plastic....but you can top coat Speedline with T-jet or AFX. It's no different than a conventional lacquer paint job. 












Body is Speedline. Filler and top coat are AFX. 












Open brush work. AFX over Tyco. Requires over spray.


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

Bill - That black toronado roof photo is amazing (well really they all are!). It's so shiny you can almost make out the wording on the light bulb reflection!

I just gooped a mashed shadow to fix a black toronado and it worked fine too, but I have not finish/polished it yet.


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## Gerome (Sep 25, 2011)

I too am a novice gooper. I bought Vitale's book several years ago. However, I have been encouraged by Mr. Hall's work but hadn't jumped in until the Ferrari 250 extended front project. I had to have one of those so I have been practicing. I am considering an "immitation" type thread were we can all display our goop projects.


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

Having gotten stuck with the goop idea myself I thought I would try my hand or should I say experiment with it. Take one tyco superbird 1st series and created goop from the twigs from a model kit. Seems to work ok but it is now painted again as it once was. This time baby blue instead of the RW&B. Not perfect but lots better than the smashed vrrsion that I had.


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

great goop info , thanks adiaz !! i learned somthing today !!


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

beautifull work bill !!! they look great


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## adiaz (Nov 26, 2012)

Bill Hall said:


> 3 stage buff. Body is T-jet. Filler is AFX. The blend is across the roof including the A&B pillars.
> 
> 
> 
> Shown above, all repairs are completely fused allowing color sanding and buffing to an original finish. Parent and donor are one. Fusion and adhesion are two different things..


 Bill what do you use for a final buff?

Jewlers Rouge and buffing wheel?
Thank! Nice work!!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Automotive compounds...3M coarse....3M medium...Megwyers #9 scratch and swirl remover. 

The trick is an initial coarse buffing before leaving 1200 or 1500 wet. It WILL highlight all missed nicks and scratches. Then you can make any obvious corrections and re-buff in coarse.

Additionally, the model should be thoroughly cleansed of any traces of the previous stage. I also use three different buffing wheels. One for each stage, so that no contamination passes into the next stage. This eliminates the hazing or clouding that diffuses light. The end result of which robs your depth and luster.


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## Davidpaul (Jan 10, 2013)

Having gotten trapped with the good concept myself I believed I would try my side or should I say research with it. Take one tyco superbird 1st sequence and designed goop from the branches from a design kit. Seems to perform ok but it is now coloured again as it once was. Now light red instead of the RW&B. Not ideal but plenty better than the broke vrrsion that I had. . . . . . . . . . .

cheap car hire surfers paradise


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

You fskipped two very important things here, Bill. The speed you buff at, and the buffing wheel itself. What you use makes the difference between making it shiny and burning a hole in the car (found this out the hard way). Also, do you get the buffer wet before applying the compounds?


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*The Gauntlet*

Naw Joe, the reality is that I skipped lots....and intend to continue to do so. :tongue: (Part of my New Years resolutions.)

He asked "what" I use....not specifically "how" I use it. Therefore I chose to highlight "what" makes the difference in the finished product. 

In case ya havent noticed, I am not a search engine.  Although I am working on an index of pertinent links, so we can expedite the whole "initial Q&A" dealio. :thumbsup:

Bottom line? I still consider actually reading the thread to be...uh.....er..... the required 101 reading. If they survive; THEN we can pound the nuances of the sub-systems of the entire process into a tasty horsey burger.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Gotcha Bill. At least my brain cells are retaining that info. And the TM thinks I have old timer's disease!


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## adiaz (Nov 26, 2012)

alpink said:


> Al, PM me your mailing address. I have black Aurora bodies for you.


Thank You Sir!

I received 2 Shadows in black Yesterday!

It is greatly appreciated. Please let me know if I can do anything for you.

Off to fix the Black Beauty. I will post photo's I wish I took before photo!


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