# Xlerator



## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

modified XLerator: from ebay

new shoes, clean & oil , tires,

Has anybody tried JL , Dash , Poly mags?

any suggestions


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## Hittman101 (Oct 21, 2009)

I like hows that done


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Nacho-car on eBay has tall polys for magna tractions that work really well in that set up. reasonably priced too. consider messaging him and take the transaction to a personal level. if you have trouble with that, PM me. I have one extra pair.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I have a conversion that I played with for a while, hoping to make something fast of it and it just would never wake up, I tried JL, Super II, etc to no avail, just slightly better than average performance. I think its the drivetrain, regardless of what you do its got way too much slop & movement in it & I think the gear ratio could be much better. I also have never been a fan of those arms, for being quads they just wont run like the real thing, I have some that I turned the shaft down to get rid of the gear and they are just barely average, not even close to what you can get from a Mean Green. 

Good luck with yours, as for mine I can throw a t-jet together in 5 minutes with a red-devil arm and it will eat the conversion for lunch.

Boosted


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

gumprunners on eBay has a conversion with a different pinion gear that has better performance.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Boosted-Z71 said:


> I have a conversion that I played with for a while, hoping to make something fast of it and it just would never wake up, I tried JL, Super II, etc to no avail, just slightly better than average performance. I think its the drivetrain, regardless of what you do its got way too much slop & movement in it & I think the gear ratio could be much better. I also have never been a fan of those arms, for being quads they just wont run like the real thing, I have some that I turned the shaft down to get rid of the gear and they are just barely average, not even close to what you can get from a Mean Green.
> 
> Good luck with yours, as for mine I can throw a t-jet together in 5 minutes with a red-devil arm and it will eat the conversion for lunch.
> 
> Boosted


I have maybe 5 or so that I've converted. I lucked out with the first one I ever did. It's an absolute SCREAMER and is smooth, quiet and easy to drive at part throttle. For straight-line speed, I'd put it up against some of the early inlines like HP2s and HP7s and I think it'd be close. But I haven't been able to replicate that... every one I've tried since then has been pretty much what you said. They come out no better than, say, a good original Aurora Tuff-Ones, and sometimes not even that good. I think there's some kind of weird voodoo where you have to get a good one and it's the luck of the draw, or maybe it's that certain motors only "like" certain chassis. Either way, I get a kick out of them because they're something different.

--rick


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Too much bounce*

Been there done that.

The xcellerators had different design for the brush shunt that we also see on the magna tractions....the little paddle. Chucks picture actually shows an xcellerator with a modified front pan to accomodate a straight axle.

When using the t-jet chassis conversion, it's better to use something that has a stiffer comm spring, like a Tuff Ones. The flimsy early brush springs wander away from the comm. Because there is no real control of the end float, the xcellerator arm can really pogo up and down in the comm pit. Performance goes away when the stock springs sag out.

That stiffer shunt helps to settle the comm plate on the vertical axis and allows the brush tension to remain constant.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

alpink said:


> gumprunners on eBay has a conversion with a different pinion gear that has better performance.


Yeah I e-mailed him about buying some of the gears and he really did not want to sell them separately, he wanted to sell his built cars, said he might sell them separately later on. I wanted to build my own cars, so the deal on his gears never came through, I still think most of them are dogs, I have 7 or 8 all built up and they are just average, & I also agree with Bill on the brush/armature bounce, but with no top plate to hold things together it gets tricky to eliminate the bounce without binding it up. 

I would like to see just how fast one of grumps builds are, So far of the 4-5 "built" Pancake cars that I have bought from several guys, only 2 have been impressive, first is the 4 gear car that TjetsGrigs built as the prize from the drag competition, That car is amazing, The second is a KC-Jet fray car that Hiram built, it too is a top notch machine, the rest are just average fast and can be easily duplicated on any build with minimum tweaks. 

JP02XLT


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yep, everything you said. when i get xlerator arms, they go straight to Sgrig for the lams. the rest are just laying about in a parts box! LOL


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Several years ago I bought a bunch of stuff from a hobby shop that was closing down (owner retired). In the box of old parts was a bag of silver plated comms for pancake armatures. No labels, so I don't know who made them. Maybe LaGanke or K&K ? But those comms on an Xlerator arm (rewound with 36G) absolutely scream. I have 6 of those comms left. Would love to find some more. Anyone else ever see these or know who might have produced them?

-Paul


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Paul, I know someone desperate for comm plates, so if you ever find quantity, include us please? thank you. al


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Absolutely. I got about a dozen in that original find and used half building racers in the 80s and 90s. There's got to be some more hiding out there.

-Paul


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Okay, this got me going and I went to the "reference library" and started digging into the old Auto World catalogs. Found the silver comms.

1971 AW Catalog Summer Edition Page 140, top right.

AW87010 Auto World HO Silver Plated Commutator...... .70 each
"The finishing touch for every rewound T-Jet 500 armature. Used in combination with silver brushes and silver pickups reduces track-to-armature resistance to the absolute minimum."

I lucked out finding this, this quickly, but you guys motivate me in a good way!
Now we know what it is and who made it, now where are they hiding???

-Paul


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## dtomol (Mar 30, 2005)

*Com Plates*

New Copper Commutator Plates - My new commutator plates are here and have exceeded my expectations. These plates are much more sturdy than the originals and are very flat.

So flat that I am able to achieve a plate flatness of .001" - .002".

The copper is precisely centered on the plate resulting in accurate ignition firing.

Segment lines between the copper pads reduced to .010" resulting in higher motor output.

The thickness of the copper is increased which will result in longer commutator plate life.

See the new commutator plate below.
hope this helps

This from DC motor http://www.dchomotors.com/Whats New.htm


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## dtomol (Mar 30, 2005)

*Tyco Gears*

Has anyone tried to make a tyco drag car using the turbo hopper rear gear. It is quit tall and should give excellant accelearation. :wave:


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

I think the "Hopper" gear is 35 tooth if I remember correctly. It works great on shorter drag strips. I'm assuming the same pinion, tire and rim size, motor RPM and torque, since those have a hand in performance results. I run on a 20 foot 4 inch strip ("Scale" 1/4 mile) and that set up tops out at about 12 feet. The same car with only the crown changed to a stock 25 tooth, tops out at 16 feet. As the gear ratio narrows the top end gets closer to a sweet spot, hitting full stride around 18-19 feet (22 tooth crown). As the number of teeth on the crown reduce, higher top speed can be reached, but needs more distance than 20 feet to reach it, so the top potential is never hit before the finish line.
This is one of my favorite things to discuss with my students in the "Racing to the Future" program. I have some of them that actually work out the math before they ever put a car on the track and then they see how accurate they were in their concepts. It is very cool to see it in action and how remarkably close they are on paper compared to what they see on the track. Gotta love slot cars!

One other note on the "Hopper" gear. It is too large in diameter to snap into the stock X2-X3 chassis. You will have to remove the rear wall of the chassis and brace it with piano wire or similar support to get the needed clearance. You'll need larger diameter tires too. The old Magnum 440 tires with the raised band in the center of the tread or the AW 4-Gear Rims and Top Fueler Tires will get you the clearance.

-Paul


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