# Has Anyone Used the MicroMark Photoetching System?



## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

The more I read about the horribleness of the chemicals used in photoetching, the more I realize that I have to get my PL Refit hangar bay done out in the fresh air. Which means I need to get seriously organized soon. 
I've actually found a couple sources for photoresist in the UK. And I've also found an increasing # of instructional sites which basically say that liquid/spray resist is fine for circuit boards, but much, much more difficult to use successfully for finely detail modelling parts. It can be done, but not with all liquids, and a lot of formulas have changed in recent years so that even the old standby's aren't what they used to be.
Which brings me to the film alternative. But now duPont's film seems to be the only one of those left, and is available in 50' rolls at the smallest, and has only a 1 year shelf life. Even if I get the two 1/350 hangar bays, a couple 1/24 Mercury capsule skins, 1/24 Apollo CM and LM panels and details, and half a dozen other projects done in a year, 50' of film is still going to leave 47' left over. 
I keep coming back to the MicroMark system as possibly the best alternative. But...
Has anyone used this thing? 
I'm kind of concerned that in days of searching, I can find no reviews of it anywhere on the web. From their site, I know that someone used it to make a dollhouse chair, but is there anyone out there who has actually used this system to make modelling parts and who would like to comment on it?
Your soon to be reluctant guinea pig, 
Jay


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

I know I hate when people answer my questions with an answer to some other question. That said, while I have NOT used the Micromark system, I have used PnP-Blue printed circuilt board film. For my refit I have used it to make windows for the lounge amd the arboretum, impulse engine grills and decorative covers for the sliders on my control box.

What you do is use a laser printer to print your image on the film. Then use an iron (laminating machine -- if you have one) to transfer the image to brass. 

I code the back side with photo resist and use CN glue to attach the sheet to to a scrap of styrene (avoids the need for a tree).

Then you soak in Ferric Chloride (available at radio shack) as would with photoetching.

The process does work. HOWEVER:

1. I get a fairly high failure rate. I usually start with at least 3 parts for every 1 that comes out.

2. You are limited to how fine the lines can be.

3. Very large areas tend to eat through.

I offer that as an alternative to the Micromark set as your question suggested you were open to alternatives.


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## Bay7 (Nov 8, 1999)

Weeeeeelll,


I went ahead and bought that micromark system - was a hellava pain getting it through customs and all the duty/VAT/charges etc I had to pay.

Anyway, I've never got round to using it because of the chemical issue. There's actually not much to the kit. I think the thing that bumps the price up is the desktop laminator. Most of the kits seems to be clips. You do get the film though but then I know how to get that anyway. Which brings me to my other point.....(plug)....I sell these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Firefly-Serenity-for-backlighting-star-trek-Lcars_W0QQitemZ230013032624QQihZ013QQcategoryZ153QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
They are made using the same film process - I can't do the Photoetching but I can get the film done - I have a batch of images to be made soon, I could always tac your stuff onto it (provided it's not huge!) 

Cheers,

Mike


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Holy, check this site out! Discovered their stuff available locally. Looks similar top a system on Starship Modeller and definitely worth a try. www.pulsar.gs/PCB/a_Pages/1_Menu/overview.html


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

starseeker said:


> Holy, check this site out! Discovered their stuff available locally. Looks similar top a system on Starship Modeller and definitely worth a try. www.pulsar.gs/PCB/a_Pages/1_Menu/overview.html


I have used that stuff....without much success. For me at least, thePnP worked much better.


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## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Hello...has anybody used it? 

Finally found the link 

Are there any other kits for photo-etching out there?

I don't know how to photo-etch. I want to learn. Knowing how to do that is the only thing keeping me from kitting a more detailed and little bigger 

One of these 

Here is a how-to link

Link 

But since I am a total novice, I would prefer some kind of kit and use the article for reference.


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## Shipbuilder03 (Sep 12, 2007)

The MicroMark Pro-Etch kit works well for me. First draw PE by computer graphics. I use the drawing tools in MS-PowerPoint. Once you design your PE parts, you can install them on your model an hour later. I am currently making a model ship that comprises mostly PE.


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

A freind of mine gave me a copy of the instrutions sheet to the Micro-Mark rig. He has had some limited sucess and totally blew it on the stainless steele attempt. Anyway I am convinced to switch to film...after I run out of spray on liquid and aerosol can resists. The aerosol and liquid is phasing out of existance. All say is because of California EPA standards...so goes the nation.

All of my existing PE gear is pretty much set and works well within the confines of my kitchen sink. All I need is a lamintor for the film which I see is on sale at Harbor Freight for about $25 bucks.

What would be nice would be for a sheet metal supplier of presensitised sheet stock as like my sourse of circuit board stock.

DLM


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## dreamer 2.0 (May 11, 2007)

I've been wanting to get into PE. Can I use the film approach if I have an ink-jet printer? There's absolutely no budget for a laser printer.


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