# Painting Q&A #2



## JSBodies

Well, here we are again........... post all your painting questions, tips,and answers here. This thread is for Pro's and Newbies alike, so ask away.


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## jaket

*Masking*

First of all, thanks for offering your help!

My questions:

What do you use to mask inside the body (tape, liquid, etc)? 

How do you mask the different designs inside these bodies? I've painted a couple bodies myself with simple two-tone designs, and I found it rather difficult to place symmetrical designs inside my body. I'd like to know how the really good painters manage to get such great designs masked inside these bodies.. (I used good ol' masking tape from 3M. Bled very little (for my first amateurish tries).)

Any masking tips would be great!


Thanks,

-jlt


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## TimWeber1

*Masking Tips*

Jaket,
I've done hundreds of bodies, with liquid mask and masking tape. Either one works out fine, some guys really prefer the liquid mask, but for economy's sake for the 3-4 bodies a week I do, I prefer tape. 3m masking tape is great; one of the brands I use, along with cheap econo stuff I get at the dollar store, and pricier "artists tape" I get at the art supply store that I use for intricate details. For the designs, I mark the outside of the body with a sharpee pen, tape up the inside, then hold it up to the light and cut along the lines. Use a brand new Xacto blade, use light pressure, and take your time. Intricate designs require lots of careful planning, it's well worth the time. And you'll never have a bleed under problem with the masking tape, as long as you press down the edges, and use very light coats of paint, especially the first 2-3 coats. I'm sure you'll soon get a reply from JS, take him for his word, he's the best, and sets the standard that I'll always use as my goal.
Tim


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## Guest

What do you use to get the marker off the outside of the body? I have never painted a body before and I have one waiting to do.


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## TimWeber1

*Removing Sharpee marks*

JWoolz-I remove sharpee pen marks from the outside of bodies with lighter fluid (Ronson yellow bottle or Zippo) or denatured alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) They come right off with either one of these, but USE CAUTION when working with these chemicals, they're both extremely combustible, and the vapors are nasty. I get all the overspray off with something called EZ Liftoff, a solvent which is available in most hobby shops, it also does a great job of removing sharpee marks. This is also very flammable stuff, take a look at the cautions on the label before using it.


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## Guest

Thanks so much for the help. I'll try and post pics of my first try in a little bit!


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## JSBodies

Hey Tim! you spend way too much time painting!lol........

Jaket- Welcome aboard! What Tim said pretty much covers your question......... I also draw all of my work out on the body, but here's a great tip- Draw your design out on tracing paper first, it's semi transparent. Then you can have the same design on both sides of the body by simply lining it up inside the body where you want it, and then tracing it on the outside with a sharpie as Tim described. This is really helpful with flame designs and such that you want equal on both sides.

JWoolz- can't add anything to what Tim said..... except welcome aboard too!


I have been running ragged lately, and will continue to be scarce here. A special thanks ahead of time! to Tim and all the other regulars who field questions from everyone.


finally got to try the Alclad chrome paint too.... it's great!


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## Guest

*Fish Eye repair*

ever have a paint job compermised by a fish eye? here's how i fixed mine. with my airbrush in my right hand and a HEAT GUN in my left hand (cranked up on high) i heated up the lexan and immeadiately ghost coated the spot. i repeated this till it was filled. there was a little blemish but nowhere near what it looked like before i did this. other wise the paint will not stick or fill the crater.


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## Guest

ACK!?! I need help. I've been in the hobby for years but I just started airburshing with the new water based Faskolor paints and I haven't aribrushed anything in over 12 years!?! So I basically forgot everything. . .

I'm using a double action Paasch airbrush and D500 compressor.

How much are you watering these paints down? It seems like I can't get them to come through unless I use full power from the compressor. But I think that is causing the tip to dry out too fast because I literally only get to airbrush for about 6 seconds before I need to clean the tip and needle. It's so much of a hassle I'd rather be using a spray can again. But I know I'm doing it wrong so far and I just need some assistance to get this to work. 

I remember reading quite a while ago that you don't have to water these paints down, but I just can't see these working unless I do. But how much watering down is needed, and how long can you guys go before the paint stops spraying nicely?

I know this question has most likely been answered a long time ago, but it would take hours to sort through all the messages.

Any help would be great, thanks!
Ben


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## jaket

Hey Tim and JS!

Thanks for advice. That makes a helluva lot more sense than some of the things I was thinking!! 

I'll have more questions later. Thanks for a thread to ask!!

-jlt


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## TimWeber1

*Thinning Fascolor*

Bencolor-Never had to thin Fascolor, it does come out of the bottle a bit thick, but I use a minimum of 40 psi with it, preferrably around 60. I do have to do a thorough cleaning of my airbrush (a Pasche VL)between bodies,(taking it completely apart and using acetone and a pipecleaner) but never betwen coats, usually just water or Badger airbrush cleaner betwen colors. (Fasglitter is a different story, instaclog) Maybe try a different combination of needles and tips to see if that might alleviate the problem. If you continue to have problems with Fascolor, try the new Pactra water based paint, it's very thin, and sprays more like conventional paint. I like the thickness of the Fascolor, as I almost always use the detail cup, and the Fascolor tends not to spill out as easily.

JS- Great tip on the tracing paper, take it easy man, I've been letting the rats win the race lately, but got to get 3 bodies done for the Philly hobby show by this Friday, only got one masked so far, oh well. Also got prototypes for EDM bodies done for 2 types of car. God Bless you and hang in there.


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## Guest

I'm using the largest tip I have right now, #5, I believe it is. I have a few more that are smaller. I'm using the VL airbrush as well. I'll mess around and see if I can get it to work, but so far, the paint has been clogging up just several seconds after I'm spraying... I also do not have a pressure gauge on my compressor so I'm not sure what PSI I'm using, are there any inexpensive gauges that you know of?


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## TimWeber1

*PSI gages*

Bencolor-Any store that handles plumbing or welding supplies should be able to hook you up with a pressure gage and all the fittings needed to hook it up for well under $10. If it's a purpose built airbrush compressor, (Pasche, Badger etc) it will only put out about 20 psi.


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## Guest

Hi guys,

Its been a while since I Posted, but i've been keeping an eye on you all  
Thought Id show off my latest body, It took me bloomin ages to complete and took only a couple of races to trash it  the pics are taken after that 2nd day, but a closer inspection show a completely different picture. Oh well, guess its back to designing a new one again, at least thats something to look forward to.
The Flame-like mask is from XXX-Main, the chequered rear was done using Liquid Mask and masking tape (dont ask!) the other details are on the pic.
The Alclad chrome is a delight to work with! Ive only ever used Faskolor, Is the pactra range the same stuff as alclad?? Wouldn't mind trying it.

PaulC2K


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## Guest

Picture never added itself, strange....


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## Dano

I am about to paint my first RC body. It is a buggy. What is the proper way to paint the wing? You are suppose to paint the under side of the body, but the way the wing is in the mold you are not painting the underside....hmmmm


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## TimWeber1

*Buggy Wing Painting*

Dano-Cut the wing out, tape it to a scrap piece of wood or cardboard with the downside facing up, and paint away! If the flat look of the vertical portion of the side dams turns you off, you can either sticker it up with some decals, or take the more complicated way of wing painting-(I do this only if a customer requests it because it is tedious)-Mask the upward facing side of the horizontal part and the outsides of the side dams. Then paint the insides of the side dams, and the downside of the horizontal part as I have described in the first part of this post. Then you'll have shiny sidedams on your wing.


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## Dano

TimWeber1,

Any problem getting the decals to stick on the paint of the vertical sides of the wing? How well does the paint hold up?


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## TimWeber1

*wing decals*

Da King-great idea
Dano-the decals will stick like crazy


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## JSBodies

Paul- nice work! how well did the chrome hold up?

Tim- thanks again! I'm not taking any more orders till may, that backed up on work. But we got the store open, and will soon have pic's of it on our site. Still no races though, but they'll come back.

Kingpin- great idea!

Ben color- tip dry is a problem with the parma paints, especially at higher psi. Try to thin them just enough to spray through the brush at 40 psi, usually a teaspoon of water will be enough.


Hello to everyone- trying to get caught up on things, but it's almost madness right now. If not for the peace of mind from the Lord I would probably lose my mind. I hope to spend more time around here soon.

Unil next time!may the Lord bless and keep you!


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## Dano

Well I painted my first body this weekend. All in all it turned out pretty good, and I am happy with it. I did get a bit more ovespray on it then I hoped for.


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## Guest

Is there a place where someone could get templates for paint schemes? Such as flames or other graphics.


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## JSBodies

T3rookie- not sure about templates. but you can pick up great masks from Parma and XXX-main. They have al kinds of flames and other cool designs too. They are available at most hobby shops, or by mail order.


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## Guest

JSB, does this answer your question??
actually, it looks worse there, on the outside it only noticable if you can see something behind it, otherwise its still reflective.

Going to be trying the Prismatic blue-green and blue-UV tomorrow morning, just got to pick my compressor up after a repair on the regulator.

PaulC2K


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## T-Main

What did you do there? I have used a ton of chrome (lots of requests :thumbsup: ) and have never seen anything like it. How are you applying it? And what are you backing with?


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## Guest

Right, I did about 4-5 coats of Chrome, then backed it with Fasblack, then fascoated it for good measure (used my finger to apply it, dont trust it in my airbrush!)

Perhaps the actual question should be not what am i backing i with, but what am I hitting it with :hat: (thats a dunces hat btw!)

I've still got to pick up the compressor today, i'll start paining at about midnight, through till 3-4 in the morn!

PaulC2K


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## silverback2

I haven't tried this yet,i am really scared to but will Easy-Off Oven cleaner take the paint off of Lexan Bodies without hurting it? I know it works on styrene model kits..........silverback2:wave:


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## T-Main

*PaulC2K*

Whatever you say. I just have never seen anything like it and I use Chrome alot....Tyr washing and rincing ALL the soap out of the body before you paint it  :lol:


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## Guest

Just took another look a that picture, If you look at it, theres a complete patch, a rectangle. Well, I usually add Fibre-glass tape to the underside of bodies, can you guess on that picure, where the Fibre-glass tape went, bet you can. Bonnet & Bumper, it pulled quite a lot off, maybe its carried on going round, the areas which had already pealed of have gradually got larger. The other areas (like near the mount holes) are fine, as is the back end which has no chrome.

The tape would have stayed on, but in my first ever outdoor meeting it started raining and the tape started to peal off, so i took it off rather than risk it entering the drive belt

PaulC2K
(started writing this 4-5 hours ago!! talk about getting side-tracked!)


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## T-Main

That looks weird. The only other thing I see is amybe the Fascoat had something to do with it. I haven't done anything yet in chrome and sealed it with fascoat. The only time I use fascoat is when I do Nitro cars and trucks and haven't done anything chrome on gas yet.(maybe I won't by the looks of that).


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## Guest

Ive been using the fascoat really as an extra coating, for protection against the bodywork, I dont want it to scratch and that felt like it helped. The odd thing is, its stretchy like liq mask when its peeling off. 

Im gonna start on the next body in the afternoon (miss morning, ive seen most of it already!) Has anyone tried the prismatic paints yet?
I've practiced on Cola bottle strips, the base makes a usefull object for testing with as its contours show the paint in different angles.
The Blue-UV looks good but its not a strong effect, the green-blue is more obvious as the green glitter is in-your-face, but the blue isnt strong. Both seem to be pretty weak in there second colour, yet some pictures i've seen suggest otherwise. Ive been backing with black as white looks terrible, cant see much!

I'll post pics of the cola bottle in the evening if anyones interested in see it. Might be tricky to get the colours on photo as its hard enough getting it by eye!

PaulC2K
sorry for any spelling mistakes, 4 in the morning & my eyes have gone!


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## silverback2

*Try this question again.......*

I haven't tried this yet,i am really scared to but will Easy-Off Oven cleaner take the paint off of Lexan Bodies without hurting it? I know it works on styrene model kits........silverback


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## Guest

*God knows*

Silverback2: 
I've no idea!! I'd doubt it'd work. Not on a laquer paint. In saying that, this is the first time i've used it, but i'd imagine that it would eat away at the lexan.

PaulC2K


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## T-Main

I haved used to Blue / Green also. I did a practice piece of lexan with about 6 differant colors. the only one I liked but wasn't strong on the blue lilke you said was doing it in black. If you do it in dark blue you get more blue but it doesn't look that great.....I will keep on posting for I am trying most of them as I go.... On my own bodies that is that way when they are jacked up I can't get one of those sad faces saying (well thats not what I really wanted)


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## JSBodies

Paul- see what you mean now.... are you letting the chrome dry overnight before backing it? also, what kind of body prep are you taking before painting?


Renblast- welcome aboard! 

You guy's keep it coming on the Alclad paints, we are still experimenting with them also.
I have only had time for one chrome body myself so far, but I like the stuff!


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## Guest

Normally, id prepare the body by washing, then using a brillo-pad (not sure what you'd call them, like wire wool for washing.) but knowing that i was using the chrome, i gave it a miss, otherwise the effect would have been lost.
Im pretty sure the tape took it off now thinking about it, the rest of the shell is clean and looking good. Pity really.

I've taken pics of the cola bottle with g-b & UV-P but the Smartmedia rader isn't working. I need to restart the PC to get it to work and im chatting at the moment!! sorry. I'll try again tomorrow if the pics look good, i'll post them.


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## Guest

Well, the pictures turned out pretty pathetic, so I wont bother uploading them, It just emphasises the main colour.
But....
Today at the trackside shop, they had a Mazda RX7 done in Green-Blue Fade to Blue-Ultra Violet, and put simply, it looked stunning!!

The blue in B-G was clearer to see once put onto a larger surface area, although the Blue-UV doesn't stand out as much as hoped for. The G-B is more of a glitter effect, the B-UV is more subtle and perhaps the rear of the car didn't show the effect as nicely as the bonnet did. Its possible. Anyway, Ive got a lovely scheme planned so i might be quiet for the next few days as im going away for the easter Weekend, Ice Hockey Play-off finals are calling   

PaulC2K


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## TimWeber1

*I guess everybody's happily painting!*

Haven't seen any posts here in a while, I guess everyone is painting away. James, how's it going with the new shop? Hope all is well with you, my brother. As for me, finally getting a chance to work on my own RC stuff as I'm getting 3 cars ready for the upcoming dirt oval season. One new Taurus EDM body is completed for my Intimidator, and another is under construction for a new prototype dirt oval chassis I'm also working on. A question on the Alclad paints to you guys, how are the fumes, and does the paint contain lead as I have heard rumor of? Thanks guys, feel free to ask any old painting question, getting lonely here in the Painting Q & A section.


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## Guest

Tim: I certainly hope it doesn't contain Lead!!
I didnt use a mask to do the front of my bodyshell, didn't seem to bad, perhaps the 'Plastics' version contains lead if any do, i dont recall reading any warning on the tiny packaging to suggest there was any. Hopefully i'll get round to doing a new shell this week.
If anyones interested (doubt it!) but my Ice hockey team made it to the final but got beat on penalties after being 3-1 up and the opposition scoring with 2:10 on the clock!! oh well, I didnt expect them to even make the semi's so the final the next day was a bonus!

PaulC2K


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## JSBodies

Tim...... staying too busy! The shop is doing ok, customers are starting to return again. the first race went well even though we counted the old fashioned way. I'm so backed up on painting, any new orders are now being taken for the last week of may so I can get caught up!


Be careful what you pray for, God is just too good!


I sure hope there is no lead in the allclad paints!


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## Guest

Someone did an amazing body and posted it onto HPI's website it was stunning, it was Chrome backed with blue. the blue was clear to see but not in your face, Ive put the link onto the bottom.

I've check the packaging of the Alclad Chrome and the UK stuff doesn't mention anything about lead

* Avoid prolonged breathing of vapours
* Harmfull if swallowed!
and thats pretty much everything.

PaulC2K

Just checked HPI's site, they removed all attachments about 3wks ago, I've emailed the person, and i'll uploaded them if i get a response.


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## TimWeber1

*Yeeeha*

Just won the "Concours Challenge" at American Raceway in Englishtown NJ over a BIG field of entrants, I'm walking about a foot off the ground! Did up a Protoform Alpha (it's a white elephant, nobody ever buys Alpha bodies) with blue Fasglitter and lime green flames outlined in flourescent red/orange. I'm really getting a handle on the Fasglitter, and I was the only one there that used it. I was positive that a guy that had a car with Alclad chrome flames would win, but I guess the judges liked mine better. 

You can get a great pearl lime green color by mixing a little bit of green with Fascent yellow, adjust the amount of green till the color is to your liking.

With the Fasglitter, my technique is to remove the needle from your airbrish completely, turn your compressor up to 80 psi, and hold the body far away, at least 2 feet. You only need a very light coat of glitter to get a great efect, using lots of coats only mutes the backing color. I generally use the silver Fasglitter as it's neutral, and can be used with any backing color without any effect on color.


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## Guest

*Fasglitter*

Tim Weber Congrats on the concourse win.Glad to see the FasGlitter is working well for you.We use a Badger 250 here at work all we do is pop the cap stick the tube down the small hole of the bottle.No Muss No Fuss easy clean up with hot water.
Mr.Parma


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## TimWeber1

*Thanks, Mr. Parma!!!*

My win was due in no small part to your products, they've provided me with the material I needed to take my painting to the next level!!!
Tim


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## Guest

hey guys,
i have been spraying out of a 9 gallon tank, it seems to work fine but i also have a 3 horsepower compressor to fill it, witch i can also spray with. Witch one is better to use?

also what psi should i spray pactra (the ones that you thin with laquer thinner)

and finally what is the best thinner to paint mixture for the following

blue streak -
metalic blue-
pearl purple-
flourescent yellow-
indy silver-
white-
black- 
red-

sorry for all the questions, i just started airbrushing, my first body came out okay but it had all hard lines


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## TimWeber1

*pic of the winner*

Concours challenge winner


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## Guest

can i use anything besides laquer thinner to thin pactra paints?
it seems like i use a bottle a paint job, between cleaning my airbrush and thinning.
i would like to just use the thinner to clean up, is the possible?
i heard i can try alcohol instead of thinner.

steve


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## TimWeber1

*Thinning Pactra paint*

Steve,
Not sure what to tell you to use for thinner, you might want to experiment with different things. Keep in mind that you can buy various thinners at Home Depot or Lowe's in quart cans for a fraction of what it costs for small bottles of it at a hobby store. If you're going to try alcohol, make sure you use denatured alcohol, the rubbing variety isn't worth much for thinning, as it's over 50% water. I steered away from the Pactra once the Fascolor came out, the fumes from the stuff were more than I (or my family & pets) could handle, as it would stink out the entire house, and who knows what the cumulative effects on my body have been from using it for 10+ years. If you prefer Pactra's colors, they now make all the same shades in a water based variety, with practically no fumes at all, but I still use a mask when I paint, and would recommend you use something better than a nuisance mask (preferrably something with a charcoal filter)and gloves, as you don't want to repeatedly get this stuff on your skin, it does seep through your pores, and your liver has to work overtime to get it out of your system, especially the case with anything that you inhale. 
Tim


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## katf1sh

tim your camera doesn't do that body justice. blury pic


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## JSBodies

Hey all, hows painting? 

Tim, congrats man! I haven't competed in concourse in years myself, but still remember the satisfaction that comes from winning!
Now I paint concourse bodies for everybody else to win with. 
Check out this modified buldozer body I painted. It was actually done for one of the guy's who drives the bull dozer truck.

www.jsbodies.com/madbull.jpg


Until next time!


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## Guest

Not a painting question, but close enough. What do you guys use to cut out the bodies? I've tried the usuall tools, but found nothing that cuts the rounded corners very well.


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## TimWeber1

T3rookie-here's what I do, been working for me for many years-put a brand new blade in your Xacto knife, and just scribe around the body where you want to cut it out. Don't cut it all the way through. Then start the tear by folding it along the scribe mark back and forth. (usually in a straight area between the wheelwells) Then you should be able to tear the body along the scribe mark, I almost always take the excess lexan off in one piece. experiment on a scrap piece of lexan first, and once you get the technique, there will be no stopping you. They do make curved scissors especially for cutting out lexan bodies, available through most hobby dealers, but I prefer just to scribe it out, along the bottom of the body and around the wheelwells. Just be sure to use a new blade! Tip-you'll be able to scribe along a straight line better if you keep your blade at a shallow angle.

Tim


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## BudJ63

Tim,
I have found that if you snap the very tip (1/32 of an inch) of your Xacto blade off with a pair of needle nose pliers, it tends to cut down on the blade wandering. Makes the blade easier to control around curves and such.


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## Guest

Blimey, 2 months have passed and nobodies got anything to say!!
Here's me thinking i'd have loads to read as ive been unable to get online for some time.

Anyway, Heres a body i did about a month ago, its a Merc done with Parma Fask range and Alclad II Chrome. Took me quite a while to paint and about 10 times longer to plan. STILL not painted the wing on it see if i remember later today, got another body ive JUST finished cuting and decalling (its 7:30am at the moment, not been to bed yet!) i'll post the pics tonight/tomorrow if i get some good one's, might even get a good pic of the Merc outdoors today!

PaulC2K


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## Guest

and a second picture
forgot to mention that its also got Alclad II Purple-Blue Flip backed with black (not that its visable on the photos)

PaulC2K
Night, Night!! :wave:


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## Anakist

That's really nice! I am planning a Lexus IS400 Body for my FSR Bullet. And a new body for my GTX. I am going to do them matching. Either that same or complimentary. I will be using light coats of fluoro purple and orange, with a silver backing. Trying to think of ways to do it. I will post pics when I have done it. 

James


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## Guest

Anakist, Thanks for the compliment, Ive just got a GS400 too, but the window mask that came with it has the part number for the 190mm version, and the shape of the mask isn't correct, I dont suppose you could check to find out if your mask says
7048 (190)
7455 (200)

Bizzarly, on the same day i bought that, i order 2 other shells, a Pontiac Firebird and a Merc Benz. The Merc somehow came with the Masking for the Elise! 
The elise is 7433, and the Merc is 7443. They'd somehow put the Merc paper into the Elise Machine, then put it into a Merc Package!
The paper says Merc, but the mask has the No for the Elise stenciled into it.
Why do these thing happen to me!
And with the Queen's 50th Jubilee (whooopie-dooo) everyone's on holiday for the Mon & Tues, so ive still not got a reply from HPI UK 

PaulC2K


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## Troy24

Has anyone used the window cling sheets to mask off the area prior to painting. I have several sheets and would like to use it. Any tips will be appreciated.

Troy


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## Anakist

Paul, 
I haven't got the body yet sorry. I am going to get them in a fortnight or so and I am just planning at the moment. Yeah it is a bit weird. Hope it gets resolved.

James


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## Guest

Ok, Thanks.
Im hoping to be going to the Modelshop today, so i'll see what they've got there.

Got some Pontiac Firebird photos earlier today.
I'll post one and put the others on one of my Sites and post a link once its done

PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Very Nice. I like the mags as well. Where is your site? As soon as I get a digicam I will be posting pics of my cars.

James


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## smojoe

hey guys
i was wondering what type of brush and paint i could use as a substitute for an airbrush. i was just going to do one solid color with maybe Team Orion decal(s) to make it look better.


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## Anakist

Use spray cans. I do all my painting with them. Place them in hot water to increase the pressure inside the can, and decrease the viscosity of the paint. It works amazingly well. 

Other than that I don't know.

James


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## smojoe

any special type of spraypaint that you know works well, or can i just pick some up at my local Orchard Hardware and Garden?


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## JSBodies

*out of pocket........*

Hey all, have not been here myself in a while. I do air conditioning work, and we are now in full swing here in muggy south east texas. will try to drop in when I get a break (like today) again. 2 months without a post, wow!


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## TimWeber1

*Gave up the Biz*

Unfortunately had to give up the body painting business due to lack of consistentcy and profitability in favor of a part time job. I'll still be here to answer any questions about painting you guys may have, that's still fun. Got to the point where late payments/offers of merchandise from the LHS and others really killed it all. I got a promise of them sending me all their work, only to see several other painter's cards being handed out. How many favors can I do, I'm trying to feed my family, and need some extra income to do it. So from now on, my own bodies will take priority, been a while since I could say that. James, I don't know how you do it; I gave it 2 years, and it didn't lead where I wanted it to, so on to bigger and better things.


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## Gubawatts

What experience do you guys have with the durability of Parma's FastColor acrylic paints? We recently completed a Dale Jarrett #88 paint job on a 1/10th Proline stadium truck body. We used Parma's brown, since Pactra doesn't have one, and we didn't want to try to mix one from bottles, and then sprayed Pactra's Sprint White over the entire body.

We sprayed the Parma with an inexpensive Testor's airbrush at about 40 psi in thin coats with good results. (The paint wasn't thinned.) Then left it sit until the next day and shot the Pactra on from a can in several light coats.

But even after a couple of days, the Parma doesn't seem to "bite" into the lexan like the Pactra. You can scratch it off with a finger nail. Any ideas on how to make this more durable, or better off just mixing colors from Pactra bottles?


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## Guest

Smojoe:
You need a particular type of paint when painting onto Lexan, it needs to include a flex agent otherwise the second you hit something, its all gonna be on the floor!
Make sure its a Lexan designed paint, Pactra have a range of paints, but your best bet is to goto the local Hobby store and check with them, Im in the UK, but that sounds like a hardware store, they wont have the paint you need.

Tim: 
Im disappointed to hear you've had to give up the painting business, at least your still gonna be able to do your own. If you miss painting bodies I can give you some crashing tips, you'll be painting again after a few minutes 

Gubawatts:
I like Parma's Fasc range of paints, but it sounds like you needed to clean the bodyshell a bit better before the application of the paint or you've not done them in light coats. For best results spray it in very light coats, the more the better, and allow a few hours for the paint to dry AND bond with the lexan, the first layer is by far the most important, too think and it wont bond tightly.

PaulC2K


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## Guest

Oooops! Left one out :hat:

Anakist:
Mags?? You've lost me on that (assuming it was too me)
The site, Normally i'd put my photos on
qazwert.4t.com (with or without www.)
but they've been playing up so ive got another which i've done nothing but store photo's on, but now they might be playing up too! but theres much more storage space there, so i might stick with them, the first one was getting clostrophobic!
As things stand there are just images stored there, i'll quickly put something together over the next few days, ive done loads of cars since creating qazwert.4t.com
To sum things up, im working on it 

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Paul, 
I meant the wheels on the car. I am going to have all the pics of my cars on my site when I get a camera. 

Smojoe,
I use Tamiya spray for lexan. It works really well for me. 

James


----------



## JSBodies

Tim, the key was starting off part time while I had a full time job. Then when I had enough capital built up, it helped to have a part time job too. Until we actually made JSBodies a business, it was a struggle.And now with us going out on a limb with this hobby shop, we are barely making it. hopefully things will turn for the better in the long run. 

A key factor for me was and still is "no trades- cash,plastic or check please".

Don't give up painting completely Tim!


----------



## Anakist

Nice site Paul. The Merc looks great. I love the purple highlights on the back. I hope my cars turn out that good!!

James


----------



## RoadBuggy

*NASCAR decals*

Apart from Slixx, who else sells NASCAR decals 1/10 scale? Slixx doesn't have the drivers I am looking for --- Kevin Harvick #29, for example. 

Thanks


----------



## Gubawatts

*Harvick Decals*

Check these out on tower's site: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXANY9&P=7 

Also, Autographix has 1/10th scale sets as well. They're last years schemes, I think that's true of both Slixx and Autographix. I just did a RC10T3 with the #88 Dale Jarrett UPS Slixx set.

Good Luck,

Mark


----------



## RoadBuggy

Thanks Gub,

Yeah, they're last year's paint schemes. It takes time to have the current year's schemes I guess. Must have to wait probably.


----------



## Anakist

How did you go Paul? Did you get the window masks?

James


----------



## Guest

Hi Guys

Anakist:
Still no word from HPI Europe regeding the Merc window mask, I emailed them about the Merc, then 10 minutes later emailed then (with the original email attached) because the Lexus was also incorrect, and as things stand, they haven't said a thing.

But on a good note, the shop which sold me the GS400 didnt have the 200mm car in stock to swap, so they contacted HPI directly and they phoned back later that day. Aparently, they are going to send a complete bodyshell do the shop, and im presuming i've be taking that home, and more than likely keeping them both, re-use the window mask if i can, otherwise use tape. So if HPI ever get back to me with the Lotus/Merc mask, i'll remind them of the similar deal with the Lexus!! :devil: 

Finally Anakist, Thanks for the comment about the site, Hopefully i'll get back into the groove and keep it updated with all my other pics, possibly move to a larger site though. But im stumped on one of your comments, _"The Merc looks great. I love the purple highlights on the back"_
I haven't got a Merc on that site, (not one that the site would direct you to anyway), but there is a Green, Silver and Blue BMW M3 GTR, is that the one you mean?








(hope this shows!)

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Yeah sorry, I think I got confused with another site. The one with the purple highlights across the back. Really looks good! Still don't know when I am going to get mine painted. Too broke to get the supplies 


James


----------



## Guest

Nevermind, The thing that puzzled me most, was the fact that the picture ive posted below (dont think it shows, i could see it when i posted it, but then i'd seen it on my site, but tonight there was a X instead  ) yer, so the image on the previous page is done in Photoshop, using one of HPI's photos. For a moment I thought you were saying it looked good, lol.

Im skint at the moment, and one order is being held up because my Mastercard is having to be re-issued (think thats the term) as someone decided to have a spending spree on it! sadly, not me!! So whats being delt with.

PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Thats not good. I am getting the body soon. Mercy run to my parents. Should have the IS400 and a parma paint mask today or maybe tomorrow. Definitely on Monday. What is the IS400 like? I like the full size car, but I don't know about the tenth scale body. What is it like for looks and aerodynamics??? I will put up pics on my page when I am done.

James


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## Anakist

Took until today to get it. I am going to get it this afternoon. Pics coming soon.


----------



## Guest

*Pictures of my paint jobs, I hope*

I am pretty much a self made painter, I have read a few of the comments here and thought you might like to see some of my work.

I do not profess to be a pro or even on the level of most of the people who post here, however, I have taken a wack at a few bodies ( cars that is).

Did most of my learning on painting choppers on the west coast, mostly Cal. With choppers you paint from the base out (positive) and with rc cars you paint back to the base (negative), had a bit of a learning curve.

Hopfully these will attach. OOPS file to big , guess I will have to try to compress it somehow. Be back soon!

OK, somebody help an old Okie out, how can I compress a jpg and post it here.


----------



## Anakist

Cool. I couldn't get it. RAR. Have to wait for weeks now  Can't wait to see them. Email them to me if you want. I am a self made painter too. Grand total of one so far. I used to paint slot car bodies with a brush and the little tamiya bottles 

James

James


----------



## Guest

*Anakist*

YGM


Sorry for the long download!

Going to Texas tommorrow, what a place to vacation, would rather come see your country!!!!!

Thumper:thumbsup:

PS. You don't eat rabbits down under.............do ya?


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## Anakist

No we don't. 

Gee that ford paint job is nice. I will put them up on my site and link to them here.

If you visit here I have a spare room...

James


----------



## Guest

*Thanks*

Would love to be able to take you up on your offer, but the plane ticket would be killer.:devil:


----------



## Anakist

Yeah but your dollar is worth about double ours. You would almost make money coming here  Almost up

James

PS do you want the mark martin one up?


----------



## Anakist

http://www.geocities.com/anakist_rc/OKThumper.html

There they are!

James


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## Guest

Nice cars Thumper!!
If you need to compress the size of the picture, you've got 2 options
1) Make the picture smaller, either shrink it, or remove empty areas of the picture.
2) Paint Shop Pro (and a few other good paint packages) allow you to lower the quality of your jpg. I do about 10% but ofter 30% can work will little loss of quality. You can take a picture from 0% to 10% and make a 150k file about 70k!! Which is a big difference for virtually no quality lost.
I use both, get just the car in the picture, then lower the quality or shink the image size.

Ive got a Flame car on its way too, so hopefully that'll be posted in 48hrs. Maybe 72hrs if we hammer the Brazillians  (COME ON ENGLAND!!) 

Anakist:
No news on the Window masks, although when i phoned HPI they denied ever getting the email (I SENT 2!!!) and asked me to send it to them and they'll send the correct one to me. Is it me, or does it seem ridiculess that ive got to send them my mask when THEY mess up! Ok, so its only about 26p (about $40) but still, they mess up, and expect me to sort it out even after emailing them (only to be ingored)

Me thinks i'll be sticking with Protoform, dont you just love it when they make all the complicated decisions for you!!


----------



## Anakist

I used irfanview (www.irfanview.com) to resample the picture to 640*480 for those pics. And you can change the dpi and everything. And it is free 

Paul, How bad is it that Japan lost! I was so cheering for them. I have been watching the games (look in yak about anything in the world cup post) and I don't think Becks is worth the 8 commoder acclaims he is paid each week (a radio station here did a comparison, he gets the equivalent of 8 cars, or about 200,000 (I think) cans of rum and coke a week). I haven't seen him do anything amazing yet. Not like Hassen Sas. Did you see the tricky stuff he pulled in their first game? It was awesome. And Suzuki is playing better than him. *SIGH* I think Brazil will win. They seem to be playing better. And, Ronaldo and Rivaldo (weird isn't it) are 2 and 3 on the most goals scored. 

I am still waiting on my body. Still broke  I always thought HPI would be better than that. Typical big business attitude. The person answering the phone didn't get the email. That is your problem. Hou could you be so stupid  What you need to do is find out the phone person's home email, and flame them until the send you free stuff 

James


----------



## Guest

Anakist:
Im currently sat outside the telephonists house, sniper rifle at the ready  
Im a Man United fan, so go easy on the Becks comments!!  
He's on £90,000 (from what i remember) and deserves every penny of it in my book.

Not only have they got Ronaldo & Rivaldo, but theres also Ronaldinho (think thats the correct spelling) but the one thing they dont have is a defence, so Friday lunch (12:30 our time) well be there watching England bag goals galore!! 

Flame car is coming along beautifully!
Brother must have kidnapped my Digicam otherwise i'd have given you a sneak peak, 4 in the morning, so wont wake the whole house up, although he's watching a DVD anyway, Who needs sleep!!

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Good spot to be :thumbsup: 

I'm not bagging Becks. This is the first time I have seen him play, and he isn't earning his money in my opinion. He might be brilliant for Man U, but he isn't showing it at Korea or Japan. What do you think of the Japanese player Inamoto, from Arsenal? He is my favorite player at the moment. I love his hair and A* thinks he is cute 

Good to hear the body is coming along well! I am getting a camera this afternoon so pics of my stuff will be up soon! If you want pics on my site, email me. [email protected] (ja_mez) and I will throw up a link or put them up. Keep up the good work!

James


----------



## Guest

Dont judge becks on his performances so-far, he's lucky to be there let alone on top form, he missed the last 6 weeks of the season as he broke a bone in the toe, and its a silly but painful injury. It was touch and go as to whether he'd even be going!! We actually got to Japan thanks to a single handed performance by the guy himself (and thats no exageration, the team were mediocre and he played a blinder), and he can put the free kicks away!

As for Inamoto, i heard they 'let him go' (from his arsenal contract) a few weeks before the WC, but now there saying they'll see how things go!
Is he the one who looks like a great big teddy bear??

I think this could be Englands year, We've beat Argentina, (BIG rivalry) we've now got Brazil, who everyone want to beat, and possibly (fingers crossed) a Final against Germany!!
That would be the World Cup to end all world cups if we could do that!! England are the only big team to have played hard opposition, all the others were in easy groups and face 'easy' oppostion. England have by far the hardest Route!!

As for hosting my Pics, Im fine, ive got 2 sites with pics on at the moment and my head (was) in a Dreamweaver 4 book, it aint easy!! I should be designing a site for a friends band .

Sorry to everyone who thought this was a RC Paint thread 

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Yeah I am just going on what I have seen. The commentators are saying he is from arsenal, but I wouldn't know. Yeah he is the one with fuzzy blond hair. 

I can't wait to get my lexus body happening! I saw a full sized GS300 and it was NICE!!!! I am thinking a two tone paint job like here: http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/4_fastfin.asp the perimiter fade. Purple around the bottom, fading to orange. If you could do a thing like that in PShop and email it to me, I would be grateful. I am thinking of doing really light coats and backing in silver. I would do the backing in the chrome if I could, but I don't have an airbrush, and I haven't seen chrome here.

James


----------



## Guest

Just done a poor one, almost posted it, then realised it was the wrong way, Orange at the bottom, so im gonna do a better one cos the other way around looked poop! Try and do something for 24hrs time

PC2K


----------



## Guest

OK, I decided to do it now, then get some sleep (its 7:30am!!)
not sure on the exact colours of the Purple and Orange, or where you wanted the fade to start/end etc, but i think this isn't too bad!
I'll keep trying to improve it, I can do 3d fades (so the car actualy his a shape, rather than being flat) but it take a while and im still learning PS let alone that area, what with Dreamweaver, Flash, Photoshop, painting and trying to find work.... 

PC2K


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## Anakist

Paul,
Thanks!!! Looks great!!! I was looking for a brighter orange. I will show you a pic of the orange I will be using, it is the same as the orange on the GTX. I was only going to have about 1/2 inch of purple, but that looks better!!! Thanks for that! Anything I can do for you, I will. 

James


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## Guest

Ive FINALLY done the Flame car!!!
Took a bit longer than planned as i decided to add a bit more to it, Not put the stickers on yet, nothing planned for tommorrow afternoon so i'll probably leave it till then.

I'll just post the one picture and hopefully this time i will put the pictures online and put a link on here, just haven't got time at the moment to do it.

Hope you like it.
PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Looks good Paul. Too bad about the soccer.

James.


----------



## rayhuang

*Parma's new masking tape!!*

Hey guys,

Long time no type, but I have still been painting when I can. I even entered a paint contest on RCTech!! I hope I win it!! I have some new news!!! I got some of the brand new Parma Masking tape and it rocks. Its very, very, very thin, easy to cut with an X-acto knife and makes super crisp lines with no bleed through. Its super sticky, but leaves no residue. Give it a try!!! I'll post a pic of the stuff and a body done with it soon. The roll I got to try is 18mm wide. 

Ray


----------



## Guest

Ray:
That sounds quite interesting, Im not a big fan of masking tape, I prefer to have something i can do large designs onto and a big plus would be that i could put it through a Laser Printer and cut it out rather than laying a few strips and making the mask by hand and then cutting it out.
But in saying that, i'll look forward to seeing the pics of the end result, maybe i could give it another try.

Anakist:
Phoned the Hobby shop about the Lexus Mask which was incorrect (they said that HPI would send a full package) and it turns out, they sent the correct STICKER PACK for the Lexus!! These people are INCAPABLE of doing even the simplest of jobs. I also sent the Merc Mask back earlier this morning (the Merc Mask which looked remarkably like a Lotus mask!) and I wrote them a lovely letter letting them know what i thought of there service, and if only i knew they'd messed up that order for the Hobby shop too!!
On the plus side, the shop managed to sell my Pontiac Firebird for £29 (not sure about the Aus$ -> GB£ rates, but a Body costs £18, so a profit of about +60%)

PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Hi Ray,
Hope you do well! I use masking tape, can't afford liquid mask yet, plus I do simple designs. 

Hi Paul.
It is a bit dodgy! I hope I don't have these problems. I think our dollar is worth about 38p.

Pics of my cars at www.geocities.com/anakist_rc

James


----------



## Anakist

Pics should be working now


----------



## Guest

Hi Ani,
Just thought i'd let you know, I cant see the lexus idea. It was the same the other day, forgot to go back and check, but today its saying the same:


> There was a problem accessing your account.
> 
> Please try back again in 10 minutes.
> You might want to try logging out and logging back in again.
> We apologise for the inconvenience.
> Thank you.


PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Yeah it is interesting that. It is just a temporary fix at the moment. It should work seen.

James


----------



## Guest

Hello all, just over a month has passed, and still no posts to read, whats happened to this thread!!

Anakist: Im rather busy at the moment, so the RC site has (yet again!) been put to one side, its currently got 3 of the last 4 cars ive done on there, but only one pic as things stand. Might put the 4th up in a minute as i only recently took some picks of the shell on a chassis & outdoors.
The site is currently hiding in:
http://qazwert.co.uk.nstempintl.com/
Thats just a temp address until i can organise the transfer of my old site (qazwert.co.uk) to the new hosts.

Anyway....

Exciting news!! 
Just got myself a 'job' working for a guy in Utah! (yep, whole different continent!) They make paint, and im building them a web-site after nattering to the bloke.
I'll be designing the site in exchange for paint, so that keeps me happy 

I'll post 3 examples of the paint they do, im sure you'll like it!!!!

PaulC2K


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## Guest

Pic No2


----------



## Guest

Pic No3
Now im not 100% on this, but i THINK its all one paint, but then again, i could be wrong! The 1st & 2nd ones are 1 Paint and you should be able to make out 4 colours: Blue, Teal, Purple & Orange

NON of these are edited to enhance the colours etc, they're all genuine pics of cars in natural sunlight.

BTW, the first 2 pics are HPI Micro Vipers i think, the 3rd is an Alfa.

PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Very cool!. Pics of my car are up on at my site. Did you see them? I did the orange and black truck body. First paint job. I was happy with it!! I might have to buy a 'sample' of the paint off you Paul!

James


----------



## Guest

I entered the painting contest on www.rctech.net and made the top 10. I am currently 2 votes out of first place. If any of you guys would go over there and vote for me(if you like my paint job, of course) it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Anakist

Finally got the Lexus done. OH MY GOD!! It is awesome. By far the best work I have done ever! Metallic purple, with orange highlights. Looks amazing! I will have pics as soon as I can.

James


----------



## JSBodies

Hello everyone....... been a while. Attached a pic of my Micro Viper to let every one know I'm still painting.......

PaulC2K- sounds like you hooked up with HRP- tell Randy I said hello. The Spaz paint is great stuff, and I'm tinkering with it now.hopefully I'll have something finished soon, the glow paint is interesting...........


----------



## Anakist

That is awesome JS! Sure beats my effort. What is the best way to get pics? Lighting etc. 

James


----------



## JSBodies

Anikist- I use a Sony 373 digital camera set to "fine" imaging, with no flash. I just use the flourescent shop lights in my paint room for lighting. The camera flash takes away from the neon colors a lot. I do have 2 sets of lights, and turn one off according to the amount of light I need to present the brightest contrast, but there's really nothing special about it. The Camera is great for web pics, but Sony discontinued them a while back.

Oh yeah, the Viper isn't just good looks..... it's loaded!


----------



## Anakist

Thanks. I took a heap of photo's of mine and the came out awful. I will remember that. What advice can you give me as to painting? Take a look at the Lexus and say what you think please. And, welcome Back!\

James


----------



## JSBodies

Anikist- can't get to your Lexus pic- post it here or e-mail it to me at [email protected]........ it's good to be back, I hope to stay a while, lol......


----------



## Anakist

There we go.

James


----------



## Guest

Hello All
Nobody told me people had been nattering, no Email  

JSB, thats sweet!!
I've not spoke to anyone at HRP, im doing the SpazStix.com site at the moment, but apparently they're interested im me doing the site for HRP too on the same sort of deal, where i get stock in exchange for my time.

I just got 8 old HPI shells this week for a bargin £40 (+ £6 P&P) (about $72!) saddly only 1 has masking & Stickers, but still a bargin.
I got....
3 Ferrari 355's (OH MY GOD ARE THEY BEAUTIFUL!!!!)
1 Corvette
1 Dodge Viper LM (apparently identical to GTR version, just came with different decals)
1 Honda NSX
1 Porsche 911 GT1 (w/ decals & Mask)
1 Nissan Skyline

and ive had a few requests to do bodyshells for people so the house is filled with bodyshells, around 14 and mormally i have 1 maybe 2 waiting to be done!
But the annoying thing is that the other day i was shifting rubbish around while helping to build a new Racetrack and when lifting a radiator to be put into a skip, the others let go before i did and it was squashed by the radiator & the bricks underneath, and of all fingers, it was my LMB and Airbrushing finger!!! 
VERY annoyong   

PC2K


----------



## Guest

JSB:
How do you come up with such complicated designs?
I can do pretty simple ideas, but i dont know where you get the idea for some of them, I get to a point where i think any more will just look cluttered, but you seem to manage it and in style too!

On top of that, even once you've done the design, how do you get your head around the painting? Ive found that sometimes you have to leave dark colours till last whether your supposed to or not, but i'd get lost too easy and do something out of order, how do you manage it??

PC2K


----------



## Anakist

Hi Paul. 
Probably just experience. I am sticking to one or two colours so far. Nothing too extravagant. Well done landing the job. I wish I could get stuff like that. What do you think of the Lexus? If it didn't show up, www.geocities.com/anakist_rc then go to the rc cars page, the the FSR page.

James


----------



## Guest

Ani:
That looks pretty darn Funky to me!!
Love the way its worked out, was that planed, cos the bonnet looks stunning, but i wouldn't have thought you could have planned it to do that. Well done either way!!

PC2K


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## Anakist

*Thanks Mate*

Thanks Paul!
No it wasn't planned. It was supposed to look like that pic you emailed me, but I put too many coats of purple on and it was opaque for a lot higher than I thought. I am pretty happy with it though. I used Tamiya PS Metallic Purple in a can and it really shines. Thanks again Paul, when will we see some of this new paint?

James


----------



## JSBodies

Paulc2k- 

I grew up painting, my dad used to paint signs the old way
(with lettering brushes) and I picked up my first brush at the age of 5. Sign painting helped develop the steady hand I need now.The Lord just really blessed me though- with a natural artistic ability to draw,percieve colors and designs as I have no trouble invisioning a design, and what will look like when finished. Long before I got into painting r/c cars I did a lot of illustration and fantasy type artwork along with model building, using a airbrush quite often. Those 3 things together really helped gel my r/c painting skills. I just draw my designs and artwork on the car most of the time,and use tracing paper to save some of the designs for later use. Liquid mask is my friend! It's like frisket paper for lexan, lol....... most of the stuff I paint would be difficult to do with masking tape


----------



## JSBodies

Oh yeah, thanks for the compliment Paul! I get a lot of inspiration for my work from full size auto's. Check out Mini-truckin magazine, and any other magazine devoted to custom show trucks, import cars, and motorcycles. You can also find a lot of stuff on the web, search for "mini-trucks". If I can visualize it, I can paint it, and reference materials help a lot!


----------



## Guest

*cutting out bodies........*



TimWeber1 said:


> *T3rookie-here's what I do, been working for me for many years-put a brand new blade in your Xacto knife, and just scribe around the body where you want to cut it out. Don't cut it all the way through. Then start the tear by folding it along the scribe mark back and forth. (usually in a straight area between the wheelwells) Then you should be able to tear the body along the scribe mark, I almost always take the excess lexan off in one piece. experiment on a scrap piece of lexan first, and once you get the technique, there will be no stopping you. They do make curved scissors especially for cutting out lexan bodies, available through most hobby dealers, but I prefer just to scribe it out, along the bottom of the body and around the wheelwells. Just be sure to use a new blade! Tip-you'll be able to scribe along a straight line better if you keep your blade at a shallow angle.
> 
> Tim *


What a great tip this is......... I just happened onto it on page 3 of this thread. I've been racing and painting my own for 15 years and never knew about this scribing trick.

Thank you TimWeber1


----------



## TimWeber1

*Wow...*

...so glad I could help someone. I discovered that years ago (30!) cutting out slot car bodies. If you check back into this thread, there are other people who elaborated on my idea further, but I prefer to do it jut as I documented. I do quite a bit of tech writing at work (assembly processes for rbotic equipment) so I've learned to be descriptive so that anyone can understand what I'm trying to get across.

How's everyone's painting out there? Sort of had to stop to find time to scratch and claw to keep my head above water financially, but I think I'm ready to take in a few paintjobs again, so wish me luck!!!
Tim


----------



## JSBodies

Tim- your back! sweet! I'm slinging paint full time again myself and will be around her a lot more often myself ( I hope ). good to see your still around dude!


----------



## RoadBuggy

*Which yellow for C5-R?*

Does anyone know which yellow (race yellow, lemon yellow, etc) is the Corvette C5-R?

I am making a #3 C5-R Dale Earnhardt, Earnhardt Jr, O'Connell and Pilgrim drove.


----------



## JSBodies

I believe the pactra r/c finish is "daytona yellow". I'm not sure if you'll be able to find the exact color for lexan bodies, but try slixx graphics for styrene models.


----------



## RoadBuggy

*yellow*

thanks JS, maybe I shall also try mixing the color, maybe yellow plus a tad of red, hmmm.


----------



## Guest

JSB:
The SpazStix Paint turned up today, and the stuff looks brilliant in the bottle let alone on a bodyshell! Ive done a few sample bits on excess lexan from an old bodyshell and they look great. We dont have laqaer (spelling?) based paints over here which is a real shame cos they look so good and the metalics are so strong compared to any airbrushable paints over here. Ive already got a HPI Mercedes CLK DTM masked up and raring to go, and i'll post pics as soon as im done!

Also, heres a few pics of my last few cars, quite pleased with them.

















The First Picture is my Flame Vectra w/ a BMW M3 in the same style and a Stratus which is a (poor!) copycat of a HPI Team driver (turned out to be one of the HPI Europe Bosses, oops! )
The second is My car with a Better (and suprisingly earlier) attempt at the same car with a Merc AMG shell, and a 406 which almost ended up in the bin after a spilage of Alclad Purple-Blue Flip but was saved by some quick thinking, just threw loads of Faschange Blue on there to hide the mess and backed it with black to bring out the colour.
And yes, the 3rd car in the pics is just a shell with wheels, no Chassis! 

PaulC2K 
(5th time lucky with the pics!!)


----------



## Anakist

Looking good Paul.

I am thinking of advertising to do painting for people here. What is a fair price? I am thinking just for starters, the cost of the body, $10 per colour (cans are $9 each), and shipping. Maybe just for a while, then I will do it for real money when I have a reputation.

James


----------



## Guest

Thanks Ani,

Ive been asking for £18 for the paint job (same cost as a bodyshell over here) and people have been quite happy to pay that much. The Local modelshop where i just drop my own creations off and wait for them to sell have been selling for £29, so in some cases im getting a pretty good profit as ive been doing 200mm and theres a few cheap ones knocking around at the moment (for £10). And the ones im leaving with them are my own creations not someone requesting something that'll take 24hrs to mask!
I'd like to charge quite a bit more for the Flip stuff as im limited to the No of bottles ive got (2 of each) so it'd be a shame to use it all up on others, but then if the money is good, why complain!
Should have finished pics up for Sunday too.
Also, that website ive been saying i'll get done... finally got something together, nothing much at the moment, just somewhere tidy to show of the bodyshells and what ive got planed (about 12 "Coming soon"'s on there!)
http://qazwert.com/rc/gallery.htm

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Cool. I will have to see. Give us a yell when they are up.

James


----------



## Guest

Well the car was finished on Friday night, but the weather has been poor and haven't had chance to take a picture. Sadly the colours were too similar and the pattern isnt distingusable unless its at the right angle on within a reasonable distance to be able to define the pattern. Still looks lovely because the colour is so strong and sharp.

Also found out why i've not been getting any emails from here, its cos my site have stopped there email forwarding service, so it was never arriving at my mailbox, Now using my Spaz-Stix email account.

PaulC2K


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## JSBodies

Paul- looking good! I have seen those style flames before, just couldn't place them till now. I hope to play around with the spaz-stix
paint myself this week, it's been sitting around here for a month I think? Keep us posted on what ya come up with!


James- give it a try man! I may pick up a little business from here occasionally but not much. Everyone has a price range they wish to stay in so the market always has room for another painter. Keep your designs limited to what your comfortable with painting and can turn out in a short amount of time. If you have a lot of confidence in a couple designs and know you can aways paint them well, start there first. The first thing ( and most certain )I found out is that the customer likes quality, and they want it fast........ kinda like fast food....lol. Also, pre-pay is always a good idea if you have to furnish the body up front. It commits the customer to your order,it's not always easy to get rid of some body styles if the customer backs out. If the customer sends you a body, they are already commited to the order and there are usually no problems. Also, accept only money orders,cashiers checks or pay-pal to begin with. Nothing stings worse than a check that bounces!

Good luck!


----------



## Anakist

Thanks JS. I am just going to do it locally for a while, and maybe on a couple of aussie boards. Thanks for the tips.

James


----------



## Guest

Hi Gang,
Ive got a rather pretty picture for yall (although i see im gonna have to shrink it to fit on here!!)
Its a HPI Ferrari F355 and its drop dead gorgeous!
Spaz Stix Change Color Paint - Gold to Red
and Alclad Chrome on the lights.

SpazStix have just created a new paint, which is Hologramatic, so it kinda has the same color effect that you see on the back of a CD, it changes Through Blue, Green, Yellow, Orange & Red. Should look pretty cool. Sadly it looks like the paint looks best when backed with Black (like all flips) as it would have been really cool backed with Chrome! 40mph CD anyone? 

Just started on a Skyline which will be Gold - Green, this gold is so strong and yellowie compared to the Gold-Red which is Golden in an evening sun kinda way, more orangy. So this should be much brighter and im gonna use more of the Flip before backing it.

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Really looks good Paul! Keep up the good work. Any chance of a "sample" of some of that paint 

James


----------



## JSBodies

Hey Paul- very nice! Have you tried the glow paint yet? i have a body prepped to paint using the chromalusion and glow paints together along with a bit of chrome perhaps. will post a pic if I ever get it finished! I've had these paints for about 2 months now lol.......

James- forgot you lived down under......... even though it's rare, I sometimes get requests from your way and will refer them to you as they come about. most over seas customers don't want to pay the extra shipping and such.


----------



## Guest

Hi!
May I know if there are stickers available for the headlights in the picture, or are they painted on? Thank you!










Regards,
Alvin


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## JSBodies

Yep- they are painted on..........


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## Guest

JSB:
I've sprayed a Wing in Power Green and then backed it with Chrome, Black & White, that showed on all but the Black, I did that Ferrari with Flip Red-Gold then Glow Orange and then Black. The test i did on a strip of lexan worked well with Orange backed with Black, and it was looking good before i put the black onto the car, but that and the flip must have been too much, the current Glow Orange isnt very strong, but a new one is out on Monday i beleive which is much stonger ('Radioactive Glow Orange' i beleive its called) but i'd try it with Green or one of the blues for maximum glow effect.

I've got a Viper which im gonna be spraying Glow Green and then backing with chrome (Turns to silver as the reflective quality is gone) that's just a test shell which i'll be selling off cheap.

I'll look forward to seeing your finished bodyshell!

PC2K


----------



## Guest

Hey guys,

I just thought i'd contribute some paintjobs here...


----------



## Guest

Charlie, You D' Man!
Missed your contributions to the HPI site, not seen you post for some time now. I love anything tribal and thats stunning as usual!
Would you object if i blatantly copied that using different colours etc? I know for a fact i couldnt come close to doing that but i'd sure like to give it a go!

After that bit of flattery, im gonna suprise you by saying shocking decal application! I usually cut the window decals out completely, then start at the top and make a cut in the top center of the decal (making sure the top row is aligned correctly first) then start to make my way around the window, if theres a part which doesn't meet up, then give the decal a little stretch and MAKE it fit, and then keep going round, i usually end up having an extra 5-10mm of window frame left, and just trip it off. Now, i know im stupidly giving tips to the great Charlie_b but you never know ??

Charlie, what's the chances of you giving the Spaz-Stix paints a try? I'd love to see what the greats could come up with, with you and JSB using the stuff, that would be quite an honour at such an early stage in developements. Let me know what you think, and i'll see what i can do.

PaulC2K


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## Guest

Paul, i'd gladly try the stuff...i donno where to get them though. As for the windows...i know i cheesed on them,..i wanted to get it out there fast(midterms was last week) and you know how time and school just doesn't seem to get along very well. It has been a while since i have posted, but i have been getting more jobs doing my concept character artwork for some of the game studios. As soon as this dies down, i can go back to my 1st love...RC!

charlie b


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## Anakist

Wow JS. That would be awesome thanks. 

Looks good CharlieB

James


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## THE BAT

Is there anyone who paints 1/10 scale nascar themes without decals ??


----------



## MIKE VALENTINE

bat try dirk dumma. i don't think any one paints the small stuff for around the front render. i could also hook you up with someone else but we would need to talk anbout that one. you can email me or call.


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## THE BAT

I used to get them from dirk he says he's too busy now.I'll ask again through bill bombard.Sponsor decals aren't a problem,I just can't find anyone who paints them like he did.

e-mail me your phone # or call
MZ :wave:


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## hyperdrive1

anyone know where i can find an interior to paint for my 1/10 oval body...i'm trying to do a concourse body..thanks


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## rayhuang

*Hyperdrive*

I am pretty sure Parma makes an interior. If I can-I'll get ya a part number!!! Hold on-I'll be back!!!


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## Guest

*Interior*

The Part # for the Interior is #10203 The guy is in the middle and you can trim it out for a right or left hand driver.
Tech


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## MIKE VALENTINE

mark i'll call you tonight. i'm not sure he is still doing bodies. he had some up at k/n for awhile. he was the guy that did ken hills stuff. just don't mention my name.


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## JSBodies

Dang Charlie! that's sweet!

The Parma driver is super easy to work with, and you can use regular model paints on it too, gives it a more realistic finish. It's my favorite driver kit to use. The roll bars and decal set from the HPI BMW M3 interior kit work well with the Parma kit too.


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## Guest

*Part 1 (hobbytalk said make it smaller!!)*

Hi all, 

Finished painting a HPI Saleen S7R last night, its by far the best bodyshell HPI have created, the fact that they've responded to customer demand and included Light Buckets is great, lets hope more will follow.

Paints used:
*Parma* - Silver, teal, green, blue, purple (all metalics).
*Alclad II* - Chrome.
*Spaz Stix* - Black & White.

Only masked off the bits that were eventually chrome and the chequed section (the chrome was done last).

Started by leaving the first section at the front clear, then faded Teal into Green and then into Blue and stopped at the rear window. I was going to leave the front & Back and do them Black & White, but the metalic fade came out so well i decided to carry it through. Added some Teal to silver and started at the front and moved up adding more Teal as it went up. then carried on from the rear adding a deeper blue and finally purple. Im gutted that theres not much purple on the the shell as its probably my favourite colour (very visable on the rear by eye, not on photo though)


















And were going to take a break now, join us straight after a word from our sponsors!


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## Guest

And welcome back, you've missed all the really good action, you'll just have to put up with me instead! 


















I'll post some in a few days when its complete, obviously the Light decal needs removing, but im gonna do that once the Light sets are ready (someone's making one for me as I chrome'd there light buckets in exchange ) so this way it wont get finger prints etc all over it!!

PaulC2K


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## planet honda

does anybody know where to get lime green paint.


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## Guest

Yes.

PaulC2K


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## Guest

See, now that was about as insightful as your question! 

If its Airbrush, Parma do a Florescent Green which is Lime Green.
Canned, no idea, dont know what you've got over there.

PC2K


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## planet honda

Sorry about not asking the ? better. I want some lime green paint to airbrush on to RC bodies. I have the parma Flo Green, but that is to bright. I realy would like some lime green paint, in an old magazine ad pactra had a page in the RC Car Action mag that was advertizing there new water based paints, and in the ad the was a lime green car with paint drip paint design on it. I asked the local hobby shop if they could get lime green paint for rc cars, and they said no. They said I should mix my own to get what I want.

If some one knows how to mix any colors together to get this color, please let me know.

Thanks chico.


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## Guest

Well, if you've got Parma Flor Green, try a touch of Normal green to tone down the brightness. Ive not heard of a Range of watercolours from Pacrta mentioned before, but im in the UK, and we get didly-squat airbrushing stuff really, its very poor!
Like i say, give that a try, you never know. If that doesn't work, try some yellow maybe Flor yellow to get a lime colour.
I'd check myself but all my stuffs in the garage and its 4:30 in the morning!! 

PaulC2K


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## planet honda

Thanks for the help Paul. I will try what you said later, and see how it works.


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## JSBodies

Planet Honda-

If you have acess to pactra spray can colors, try the flourescent green backed with rally green. Or try rally green backed with sprint white. Rally green by it's self might do also.

Not too familiar with the pactra acrylics though. Not enough color in those little bottles for the volume of bodies we paint.


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## JSBodies

Planet Honda-

If you have acess to pactra spray can colors, try the flourescent green backed with rally green. Or try rally green backed with sprint white. Rally green by it's self might do also.

Not too familiar with the pactra acrylics though. Not enough color in those little bottles for the volume of bodies we paint.

The JS Bodies Banner has a truck that was painted with the flourescent green backed with rally green, but you can't see it very well.



Haunted Myst- where are you? lol...........


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## HauntedMyst

Hey JS  Still busy as ever?


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## JSBodies

Yep.......still busy. Our new shop keeps us hoppin. I finally caught your article on window tinting, very nice!I never thought about using actual window tint!


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## HauntedMyst

Thanks! Yeah, it can be done. I just can't imagine anyone other then one of those very retentive detailers doing it though, its a nightmare. It's far easier to use the Pactra Acryl Transparent Smoke. It takes all of 2 minutes to get the nicest looking tint.


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## Guest

Bloomin ek
How'dya do that JSB?

You just ask for someone to appear, and kazam! there they are!! 

Hello HM,
Is the artical in RCCA or RC Xtreme?
Cant get RCX over here, but RCCA finds its way over as does R/C Car.

PaulC2K


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## HauntedMyst

It is in Xtreme.


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## Guest

Tipical 
Is it on the site? or will it be?
Looks like i'll have to have words with the local Magazine shop!!
Im after the edition with the Spaz-Stix paint artical in it, see what was said etc.
I beleive it got a good review (shame about the smell though )

PC2K


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## JSBodies

Paul- neat trick, eh? lol................

HM- good to have ya around man! your input here is very welcome!


Guys, you should check out HM's work when ya get the chance, he slings paint with the best!


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## Guest

We all know HM!!
In fact, i remember I almost gave him a bit of advice about 9 months ago, about a brilliant Painting Tutorial i'd seen on a website a few weeks earlier. When i looked for the link, thank god i noticed who wrote the bloomin artical! what a wally i'd have been!

Yer, Its good to have you on here HM.

ahh what the heck, give it a try HM, it might help 
http://www.balakracing.com/airbrushescompressors.htm

PC2K


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## JSBodies

lol................


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## HauntedMyst

lol Thanks JS but slings paint with the best? Ha! I have my lucid moments but only travel into your and charlies stratosphere by accident! The one I paint after that ends up looking like it should be stuck to the fridge with a magnet. 

Paul, I don't know if the review will be on their site at all, but the intro of them is on http://www.rc411.com/index2.html at the bottom.


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## Guest

Yer, I caught that a week or so ago, couldnt see the full artical and figured it was because if everything wrote went onto the site, then nobody would buy the mag.

Thanks for the email, much appreciated.

PaulC2K
P.S. The site opened about 50min ago. Been aiming for a Sat 00:00 deadline for the past week, give or take a few min and it was on time


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## Guest

*How is the Black Light Kit working for you?*

Hey Haunted.

Did you receive the SpazStix Black lights on Wednesday?


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## HauntedMyst

Yeah I got it! I haven't had time to paint up a body for it yet but I will this week! Thanks again!


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## Guest

*Looking forward to your opinions...*

I am interested to find out what you think of the Holographic paint (sw1080), And the black light paint when combined with the black light internal kits. Also interested to see if you think the smell has died down on the RadioActive Glow Paint series and what your thoughts are on those paints.


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## HauntedMyst

lol Yeah, the smell has died down! I opened them up to see first thing. The orange was the bad one last time and for the most part, its gone. As for the Hologram paint, I have this to say: *IT FREAKING ROCKS!* You were right, you have to do lots of coats, but its great. I never thought of combining it with the black light kit but I'll toss it on to an area and give it a shot.


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## JSBodies

Hey guys, been playing around with the holographic paint too. About how many coats are needed to achieve the effect? My first attempt was ok, but less than desirabpe for a holograhic paint. The orange definitely stinks lol..... HRP is one of my distributors, and I order from them almost every week, but I haven't seen the new blacklight kit yet. What's it consist of?


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## Guest

HM. I didn't state myself very clearly in the previous message. I don't think the Holographic paint will work with the internal black light kit. 

JSB. The part numbers are UV004 4" Black Light Kit and UV012 12" Black Light Kit. Here is what you do. You paint up your r/c body using the Spz UV100 - UV160 Ultra Violent Black Light Paint and DO NOT use any backers. The more coats you put on the body, the darker your colors will be when they glow. This can be very effective to get lots of different effects. Then, You hook up your Black Light kit which consists of 1-4" or 1-12" black light, depending on which kit you purchase. 1-small circuit board that is required (it's the ballest for the flourescent black light and the 4" and 12" circuit boards are not interchangeable. And 1-connector which plugs into the circuit board and has the 2 connectors that you hook up 2-9volt batteries in order to power it. The farther away you place the black light from the inside of the body, the better glowing effect you will receive. On my Emaxx, I put the 12" down the center and more toward the back end to light up the entire body. Then I placed a 4" up front under the nose. It was great to be able to see the entire truck while playing on the street at 1am. You can see the body light up during the day somewhat, so you can imagine the glow you get at night even with the streetlights on. 2-9volts will run each kit for over 3 hours solid. And then it starts to die out. 

As for the Holographic paint. Try this. Plan on 1/2 of a bottle to cover a T3 body. Using that guideline, you basically keep putting coats on until you have an almost non see threw look. Then I recomend backing it with black for the best results. I have found that if you test out on Bol 2729b (I think that is the number) You just cut little 1x1 squares out and paint each one differently until you find the results you are looking for. Indoors it will look boring and gray. When you take it into the sun, Psycadelic City. Then try backing it with all sorts of different colors. Results will vary, but the effects will still be there. I have found that if I spray down some of the Holographic paint and then put down some change color paint (like sw1000 or sw1050) I still get the change color effects and the holographic effects on top of it. It is all in finding the right combinations of coats for your own techniques.

Have you tried the RadioActive Glow paints? What do you think of those? Especially compaired to the Xtreme Glow paints?


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## JSBodies

Spaz- haven't tried the radio active colors yet, they were all out of stock last time I ordered. I'll make sure and grab some on my next order. Randy used to let me know when something new came out( even before it was e-mailed to everyone on the new item list), but he went over to Racer's Edge and Mike ( my new rep )never calls me about anything, lol......


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## Anakist

Dont be so humble Myst, I have seen some of your stuff and it is awesome. You fully deserve being in with JS and Paul. 

James


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## Guest

JSB. The RadioActive Glow paints definiately kit some butt over the others. However, if you are into glow-in-the-dark ghosting effects, It might be a good idea to use both types. While most of the Xtreme Glow paints end up white as the final color, only 3 will have that same effect in the RadioActive Glow paints. 
XG6001 BLUE/GREEN (CLEAR) 
XG7001 PURPLE (CLEAR) 
XG7251 ORANGE (CLEAR)

The rest of the RadioActive Series you spray until you get that color as dark as you would like it to show during the day time. (As always, the more coats you apply, the better the glow will be). While the Purple in the Xtreme Glow is very hard to see unless in total darkness, the Purple in the RadioActive can easily be seen when running under normal street conditions with the street lights on.

And of coure you should back all glow in the dark paints with the Spz XG2000 backer for the best results to enhance your glow paint.

I know Mike. I hate to hear that communication has dropped between you and HRP. I don't want to interfer. Unless you think it would be for the best. I can mention it to him, or to his sales manager Scott. Or, I can send you updates myself if you prefer. I don't want to cause trouble without permission. 

Also a question. Are you set up to receive their emails of new products? I also believe they have a fax system to inform customers of new products once a week.

Just a little side note: On this Tuesday, Sept. 3rd, Spaz Stix paints will release it's newest product. CH5000 - Mirror Chrome.
Tips for application: Spray at 15psi. Spray lite, even coats, Should only take 3 coats, but it all depends on your style. Recommend adjusting spray until it only takes you 3 light coats in order to get a brilliant mirror reflection. You can either leave it that way, or if you need more protection, back it with water based black.


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## Guest

Anakist:
Good to have you back, wondered where you'd got too!
I love the comment about HM deserving to be in the same catagory as JSB & Me! I think HM is ooh, about 10 times better than me!! 
Like a ton of other people, I picked up loads from HM, and his tutorial has COST ME A RUDDY FORTUNE!!!  But im glad! 

Jesse:
Ive uploaded the Liq. Metal page and i'll link the logo upto the page on the day.

PaulC2K


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## Guest

Paul: Great job man. You are on top of everything! Gotta go finish making your paints. :wave:


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## JSBodies

MH- what Anakist said.........

Spaz- no big deal, Randy was just an outgoing kinda guy. I'm in good standing with HRP though, and order a lot of stock from them. I do get the updates every week (I guess I just missed it) and it's great that your coming out with your own chrome paint! Will it be as easy to work with as the Alclad paint?


----------



## Guest

Should be. I will be very interested in your opinions if you do try it. I have found the best result for my own spraying techniques are: spray at 15psi. and spray like you would any other paint. It should take 3 coats to get a highly effective mirror finish. I have seen results vary due to spraying pressure and # of coats. But the 15psi and 3 coats are a good place to start. I need feedback in order to improve the formula if it does not work just as good as Alclad's or better. I want to keep working on the formula by getting feedback, until we can aquire near perfect results for most everyone out there who paints (basically I want to see it be dummy proof so it is a no fail great results everytime paint).


----------



## Anakist

Paul: Maybe it should be and vice versa as well. You, JS and HM are all in the same league. You are creative, skilful, intelligent and care about what you do. It really shows in your work. I saw the tutorial from HM on balakracing.com and it really helped me. I read that before I did my Lexus shell. 

Spaz: I wish I could help you. I am a dummy when it comes to painting, but I live in Australia. Are there any plans to export it? I might have to order some to do a demo body to show off locally. 

James


----------



## JSBodies

Spaz- will try it out as soon as I get my hands on some. Thanks!


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## Guest

Anakist: We can always ship it going usps if you are interested. Just let me know. It would be great to get the product over there.


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## HauntedMyst

Spaz said:


> *Just a little side note: On this Tuesday, Sept. 3rd, Spaz Stix paints will release it's newest product. CH5000 - Mirror Chrome.
> Tips for application: Spray at 15psi. Spray lite, even coats, Should only take 3 coats, but it all depends on your style. Recommend adjusting spray until it only takes you 3 light coats in order to get a brilliant mirror reflection. You can either leave it that way, or if you need more protection, back it with water based black. *


No more silly little Alclad bottles for chrome? Thank goodness! Ship it in the same bottles as your using and I'll never touch the A stuff again!


----------



## Guest

HM: Thanks for the boost man! You hit it on the head. It will be in the same bottles that the rest of the Spaz Stix paints are packaged in.:thumbsup:


----------



## JSBodies

sweet.................. same bottles!


----------



## Anakist

How much is it Spaz. I will have to look at getting some.

James


----------



## bigdon18

hey guys where can you get the spaz stix paint, i just painted a body yesterday with the aclad chrome and it turn out pretty nice. 
thanks 
Don


----------



## Guest

ok, could have SWORE i pressed submit just a few minutes ago!

Anyway...

Anakist (and now Bigdon18 too)
You can purchase Spaz Stix paints from your LHS but if they dont stock the stuff, then appart from them being daft  you can buy it online at a wonderful and beautiful (spot the shameless pluging!) www.spazstix.com. Thats the official Shop site, and you can buy all the current paints via that site.
Hope you both like the site, if you dont, LIE! 

has anyone here seen my Saleen S7R shell yet? The one 3 pages back? Im pretty sure the mighty HM has seen it via HPI's site.
Gonna be starting a Viper in the same style this week different colours i'd imagine for most parts anyway.

Jesse: Just went to see the site, noticed i wasn't getting the updated products page, your stupid website designer made the first letter a capital so it stayed with the old version thanks to the wonders of technology. Its up now anyway, just 17 hours into Tues. 
Doing the Gallery at the moment, (sneek peak - on the current Gallery page, top row at the end of the fade.)

PaulC2K


----------



## Guest

Thanks Paul for covering for me. Logging on a little late here. Busy night.  

HM and JSB: What do you guys think of this: 

http://www.airbrushcustoms.com/How-to.html

Also here is a picture of the Ultra Violent Paint on a Tmaxx body:

Body #41 UV150 on the very front. Flames are outlined with UV110 Lemon/Lime (bright yellow during the day, Bright Green when glowing) and turned greenish when backed with UV150 (Electric Blue). UV160 (RedruM) for main body and faded into UV120(Fireball Orange) on back end. Backing the uv150 with uv160 created a purple hi-lite. Have a UV004 4" black light in front of truck and a UV012 down the middle to end of truck to illuminate it. When securing these black lights into your vehicle, be sure not to put too much pressure on the tubes. After all, they are glass (And have to be glass to give off the fluorescent light). Currently working on an improved version. Not close to final stages however.


----------



## Guest

Paul: I forgot to mention the outstanding job you are doing on the gallery. I like the format. I went through all of the bodies on the site and sent you an email with all of the paints that were used to create them.:wave:


----------



## JSBodies

Spaz-Very nice! I'm gonna have to try that black light set up real soon!


----------



## HauntedMyst

Looks great!


----------



## rayhuang

*Painting a boat.*

Hello guys,

I have been given a RC Boat to paint and have been putting it off for months. MOstly due to what a pain it is going to be to paint. Its has a styrene plastic hull I am pretty sure. If anyone has experience painting boats, please share both types of paint and techniques. I am ona tight budget to paint this, so please if possible recommend stuff in a spray bomb or paints I can put in my Paasche. 

Thanks in advance,
Ray


----------



## Guest

I dont know about it gripping to the hull, but you could Faskolor/Createx the design and then use there Faskoat/Clear Coat which is Nitro proof, which is a damn site harsher than water.
Could be worth a try.

Jesse:
I was only after about 8 shells worth of info, first glace looks like its all of them! Does this mean ive gotta do all of em now 

PC2K
**Edit**
Bloomin ek, well spotted on the Chrome!! not sure where i got that figure from, maybe it was copied from other page and slipped through.
Just changed the figures, also realised ive still not completed (started even) the Accessories page. I'll get that up by the end of the night. Gimmi and hour or so


----------



## Troy24

Has anyone use blank window cling to mask off parts of the body?

Troy


----------



## Anakist

Paul: Great site, WHERE ARE THE PICS????? My LHS won't ever get the paint in because no one will import it. And here in australia our dollar sucks. Not like your pound. Our dollar is worth about 40p. I think.

Spaz: That price works out to $20 a bottle plus shipping for me. I will have to think long and hard before ordering it. Email me at [email protected] (ja_mez) to work out shipping and if I have to pay dangerous goods and stuff. Thanks.

James


----------



## Anakist

Paul and Spaz: This is what I got when emailing <[email protected]>



> This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
> 
> Delivery to the following recipients failed.
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reporting-MTA: dns;hotmail.com
> Received-From-MTA: dns;mail.hotmail.com
> Arrival-Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 16:18:43 -0700
> 
> Final-Recipient: rfc822;[email protected]
> Action: failed
> Status: 5.0.0


----------



## HOOPD1

Rayhuang,I have painted several boats fiberglass,wood and styrene.
The biggest thing on a plastic hull is dont try to use any type of power sander on it,it will heat the plastic and make little fuzzies then its very hard to fix.A good automotive urethane is best for boats especially if its nitro.The auto paint is expensive but worth it.If you want to do it cheaper pick up some Dupli Color spray cans at the local parts store,I have seen some nice looking hulls painted with it and it comes in tons of different colors,it is somewhat resistant to nitro fuel since its acrylic lauquer.


----------



## rayhuang

*Thank you!!!*

Thanks for the tips on painting plastic boats!!!


----------



## Guest

Anakist:
Replied to ya email.
The pics are on page oohhh, 8 on THIS site, everyone fell asleep when i posted the pics, nobody said anything and i cried myslef to sleep for a whole week! 
Try the bottom of page 8.
Im updating http://qazwert.com every now and then, not had the time recently got about 6 shells to add to the site! (F355, S7R, Merc DTM, Skyline, Viper, 406 & Merc AMG)

Just done tests on the Email account, cant see anthing wrong. Jesse/Spaz has done one, and i've just sent one and both arrived fine.

Just wondering, but is your hotmail account full? Ive noticed it wont allow you to sendif the account is overloaded.

PC2K


----------



## Anakist

Paul, Sorry about that. I thought it was an amazing paint job and I thought I replied. I am 20 in a week so it must be old age.  

Hmmm, I just copied and pasted from the site so I don't know. No my hotmail account isn't full. I keep it at about 20%. 

James


----------



## Guest

hmmm, I'll beleive ya. Went quiet for a few weeks!

Ja mez  could you try sending again please. Its [email protected]
lol, just spotted it!
Ooops, Someone must have typed in the wrong address, anyway, we wont go into detail as to who spelt the sites email address wrong :hat: (Should have a 'D' on the front )

PC2K


----------



## Anakist

Right. Just sent the email.


----------



## Guest

Show off! 
PC2K


----------



## Guest

Thought after the last post that you might want to see what the truck looks like when it is not lit up. So, here it is.


----------



## Anakist

Thanks for the emails guys. I have 4 from you. Glad I could help. I am also glad for the board so you could fix it quicker. 

James


----------



## planet honda

Hi, I have heard of people spraying on liquid mask, can some one tell me how to do this. I have tried to brush it on, but I still cant seem to get it on very good.

Also will spraying it on hurt my airbrush.

Thanks


----------



## JSBodies

Planet Honda- do not spray liquid mask through your airbrush-it's not worth the frustration!

run down to your local hard ware store and pick up a cheap touch up spray gun ( presure feed/siphon feed )by Devilbiss or several others. They come in 2 sizes, pint and quart. I use the larger one , it cost me $35.00 plus tax. Use the pressure feed at about 40 psi from your compressor and thin the liquid mask ( Bob Dively brand ) just enough to spray through the gun evenly. 2 nice even coats do the trick for me, and I usually mask off 7-12 bodies at a time with this method before the 32oz gun needs refilling. you will need a regular compressor ( 4 gal. pancake works well ) for this to work though.


----------



## planet honda

Thanks for the tip, but how will I know if it is on thick enough?


----------



## HauntedMyst

planet, with liquid mask, it takes some trial and error to know when you have enough on but its always better to error on the side of too much. When you have too little on, its a bear to get up. I paint it on with a normal paint brush and put on 4 to 5 thick coats. 


Spaz, I tried the chrome today. Hands down better then Alclad. Sprays smoother, dries faster and like the rest of your paints, screws right on to a brush cap, which makes clean up a breeze. I just finished this 10 minutes ago so I will try to get better pics outside tomorrow.


----------



## HauntedMyst

one more shot


----------



## Anakist

Looks great HM. Keep up the good work.

James


----------



## planet honda

Is there a certain kind, that works the best. I have only tried liquid mask once, and it was just a little bottle that I got from the craft store. 

When I spray it also, do I dilute with any thing, or just spray it right from the bottle?


----------



## HauntedMyst

JS can answer you better on the spraying it, but you dilute it with water. As for the different brands, here is my take:

Parma: I tried this first because my LHS had it. Basically, I dont care for it. At $3.99 a bottle, you get once or 2 ounces and it's enough to do one car. It becomes brittle and if you don't put on 5 or 6 coats, it doesn't peel up nicely and becomes crumbly. I've tried a dozen bottles of this stuff. I can't stand it and don't find it up to Parma's normally high standards.


Hobbico: Very good, goes on nicely in 3 coats and maintains a nice rubber texture that is easy to cut and pull off. I've only ever seen it in a tub about 4 times the size of the Parma bottle for $3.99. Over all it's an excellent mask and I thought it was a good value until...

Bob Dively: Excellent! I tried this because I visited another LHS and they were out of Hobbico. The bottle saying it should be sprayed put me off. I bought it since I had some bodies to practice on and brushed it on in 4 thick coats. I was 5 days ago before I could paint a body with it. It remained nice and rubbery. It cut well and was easy to pull off, never crumbling and making me scrape it off like the Parma. The nicest part is, it comes in 16oz and 32oz bottles for $12.95 and $19.95 respectively. I bought the 16oz bottle, did 4 bodies and still have 2/3's of a bottle yet. This is the hands-down winner in terms or performance and value.


----------



## Anakist

That looks familiar HM.
http://www.balakracing.com/paintmasks.htm
PlanetHonda, look in the Equipment, then Painting menu for words of wisdom.

James


----------



## JSBodies

Indeed, Bob Dively is the mask of choice for me. I buy it by the gallon (4 at a time ) from the manufacturer, and thin it just enough with water to allow it to spray smoothly . Usually 2 coats with a spray gun work very well as they are very consistent. I spray a coat on the body and hang it on a clothes line with clothes pins in front of a box fan. I spray off 7-12 bodies at a time, and they usually dry in a couple hours. The nice thing about spraying mask is that it's super easy to work with and goes a long way. The quickest way to remove the masking is to use an old airbrush needle as a pick. You would not believe how easy it is to pull of mask with it!


----------



## HauntedMyst

Anakist,

That would be me! I have a more updated version here though: painting site and I will be adding more sections to it to cover spraying glow in the darks, chromes and pushing cans to the limit.


----------



## Anakist

The articles there halped me a lot HM. What tricks for cans? I know to put it in hot water. What else?

James


----------



## HauntedMyst

One trick is touched on with the granite finish. Basically, you toss a couple of cans in the freezer for a bit and let the paint thicken. Then you spray them and they clump up. When you do that with 2 or 3 colors and then use a regular temp backing color, you can get some cool looking marble effects. Most people never try doing fades, detailed masks, liquid masks or other designs with cans either so I will touch on those. I will also have a section on how to do some of the bodies I've airbrushed with cans so people can see what cool stuff they can do if they just put their mind too it. Lately, I've been getting emails and seeing people post a misconception that they want an airbrush to make their painting better. An airbrush doesn't make your painting "better", it does 2 things really: 1. Offers finer control of the spray pattern and 2. opens you up to a whole bunch of new paints like Spaz Stix and waterbased paints. I am for encouraging everyone to get an airbrush, and want to outline what they should work on first with cans before going to the expense of an airbrush only to be disappointed it hasn't magically transformed them into a paint wizard. About 90% of a bodies success comes in designing it and masking it correctly so hopefully a section on pushing cans further (through design, prep and planning) will help people be more successful with an airbrush.


----------



## Guest

HM, glad to see the RC Painting Bible has been updated 
Just wanted to check if you dont mind me adding your tutorial to the Spaz Stix site? All usual praise to yourself included on the tutorial. I've been planning on doing something for the paint for a while now but haven't had the chance to get started on it, im sure you know what i mean.

PC2K


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## JSBodies

*other stuff......*

Hey guys, finally got my shirt from this years Roar offroad mod-nat's.
I did the artwork, but the final coloring and lettering was done by others. turned out pretty good I thought. I owe a big thanks to the crew at K&M racing (New Caney) for giving JS Bodies some exposure.

mod nats T


----------



## HauntedMyst

Very nice JS!


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## Anakist

HM, Yeah I read that. I wish I had more money to buy shells to paint. This is the second shell I have painted. I did it and the first one entirely with cans. 









I am saving for an airbrush so I have those options. I will try to paint better with cans until then.

James


----------



## Anakist

Well, I am painting a clear welding lens to have as a wing on my truck. I put a temp tattoo on it and I am going to paint it orange and/or purple, haven't decided exactly how.

James


----------



## Guest

LOL, Interesting choice of material 

Ive just been asked to paint a Truck shell, not Buggy-truck or Monster Truck, but a Euro style Race Truck! Its really cool too, Its a Merc Shell and its in 4 bits, Chassis, Cab, Rear of Cab, and Rear bumper (god knows why!!)
But its looking perdy cool.
I'll post pics once the last bit is done.

Also did 2 new shells this week, a Skyline and a 911 GT1.
The pics aren't very good, it looks like the Digicam needs a good servicing

HPI Nissan Skyline 190 (Requested by a customer/friend)
Spaz-Stix Gold/Green
Spaz-Stix Teal/Purple/Red

















HPI Porsche 911-GT1 200 (own choice, to be sold)
Spaz-Stix Gold/Green
Spaz-Stix Purple/Red/Orange/Gold
Spaz-Stix Chrome









Hope you like em
PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Paul
It is 110x55 and I got it for free so I thought what the hell.. I might as well. 

The bodies look good. Keep it up.

James


----------



## Guest

Finished the Merc truck last night, and managed to get a few snaps while the weather was pleasant.
Ive enjoyed painting a different type of shell, its nice to do something different every now and then, Ive been asked to do a T-Maxx shell once the guy has the money for Fuel and other more important bits, but this truck was a nice change from the usual 2/4 door saloon shell. Not done a buggy yet, hopefully one will be requested, that looks like fun too 

Anyway, the truck
Spaz-Stix Liquid Metal - Chrome
Spaz-Stix Color Change - Blue/Purple/Red (probably my favourite colour)

























I decided after painting it, that i didnt like the stripes, the way ive done them IMO makes it look cheap, but i did them to try and tie the colours in together.

PaulC2K


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## Anakist

Looks good Paul. I can't wait until I get my paint.

James


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## Guest

Thanks Anakist,

What paint are you waiting for, have you ordered some Spaz-Stix paints or something else? 
what shell & Design have you got planned??

Im gonna have to do a few of my next shells with normal, borring, bog standard, single colour paint  D)
The last few i've done have been nice looking, but there not pushing me like my last few non spaz-stix paintjobs have. The Saleen is by far my best shell to date, and i want to continue doing that kind of shell, The problem with the Saleen is its so nice i wouldnt want to race it, and i dont really want to sell it (i couldnt race it as its 200mm) but the Spaz-stix ones look cool yet easy to do. 

Ive got a Protoform Opel Coupe which i like the flow of, so that'll be my next shell, its 190mm and i could do with getting one ready for an upcoming competition, so that and a GS400 are my next shells, maybe a F355 inbetween as i know what im doing with that one.

PC2K


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## Anakist

I am going to order some spaz stix paint. But I don't know what I am going to paint. I am going to experiment with a home made (printed off the net) mask on this wing, but I don't knop what design to use. 

Still thinking.

James


----------



## JSBodies

Hey guy's here's a couple I painted using the new spaz-stix color change and alclad chrome. They are kinda basic as I 'm still getting the feel for these paints, but they came out ok. kind hard to see the color change in the pics though.


Mugen1 


Speed8


----------



## Guest

Kinda basic  
I wish my skills were 'kinda basic'!! 
They look great, Its hard to get pics of the flip paints, they need light coming from as many directions as possible ive found. So far i seem to see it best in my garage where i do all my airbrush work, thats got two florescent tubes in there and they seem to help make the effect visable. The only problem is that while its really easy to see in there, it might not be so in other rooms/lighting conditions, so i tend to add a coat or two for good luck (besides going into other rooms etc to see how it looks, obviously you wont know until you put that layer of black on how its gonna turn out!

Still, they look pretty darn good from where im sat, i dread to think what you'll be doing when you start playing with it!!

PC2K


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## JSBodies

thanks Paul........ I have 2 sets of lights in my shop, and most of my work comes out great in the pics. This paint is light absorbent though, might have to try somre diferent lighting techniques.

It also takes so darned long to dry!


----------



## Guest

im guessing that was sarcasm at the end?
I certainly hope so!
I've found that the Spaz-Stix black backer is thin, and takes a few coats to be 'think' enough that you cant see through it unless held into the light etc. But its great for shaddows, with it being thin i've found it doesn't show as much in areas that you didnt really want it to end up  the idiot proof way of doing shaddows!!
But all Laquer based paint dry stupidly quick, compared to Cans and Waterbased, we dont even have water based paints over here yet (not RC ones anyway)

PC2K


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## JSBodies

lol. 

I have found that the laquer paints do indeed take longer to dry than water based simply because I use a hair drier on the water based paints, and secondly because all of my masking is done with liquid mask ( it will lift laquers easily if not dry enough ). I can knock out a water based design in half the time of a laquer based one.

See if you can get createx auto air paints over there, they are essentially the same as the parma paints that aren't available to you.


----------



## HauntedMyst

lol

I'll be the middle guy. I’ve found acrylics dry faster, which means you can move on to the next coat sooner, but lacquers cure quicker, meaning the paint is set and you can race the body.


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## JSBodies

Hey HM! how's painting? what's in the skillet for your next article?


----------



## HauntedMyst

Hi JS! Thanks for asking. Been too busy to paint much lately, but I have a few bodies lined up. I will be working on one of the neon kits/bodys from Spaz pretty soon. I am waiting for my Iwata airbrushes to arrive and can't wait to try them! Hopefully, I'll get one of the new Parma's as well. 

I also got a very cool boost on the my Painters Yellow Pages recently! I found someone to host it and put the code together, I have to put together the content, links, descriptions and figure out categories. With any luck, it will be the biggest portal to r/c car painters with information on the painter, explainations of the quality of their work and why people should get pro painted bodies. I hope it will turn out to be a funnel to help painters get more business. 

How are things with you?


----------



## Guest

JSB:
Ive bought a couple of normal Createx paints and they've been ok mixed with Faskolor paint, BUT Wonderful news!!!
I phoned the UKs distributer for Parma (Helgar) about a month ago and they said that they were waiting approval for the paints, and someone from Parma emailed me today saying that its been granted, so before long i'll haev tons of them, i've got about 75% of them but most are as good as empty, and i cant afford the $20 just for postage let alone the paints. So its great to know i now have a regular supply

PC2K


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## Anakist

I will just sit over here with my cans and dodgy work 

HM, when the site is up, I will link to it from my homepage. Also, how many airbrushes do you have? Could you email ([email protected]) me if you ever sell one. I am looking for a good airbrush for rc work, but good ones are really expensive here new. 

JS, Wow. I am going to copy those design for some of my next cars. They look awesome. And are well within my skills...Hmmmmmm.....

Paul, Well done. We have tamiya and parma here and it is $10 a bottle/can. 

Keep up the good work guys!!!

James


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## Nil

Anakist:
You don't necessarily need a good air brush for painting bodies. Even a cheap one will work better than a spray can (but not much). Most of what you gain with a more expensive unit is for free hand painting and fine lines. If you're willing to be ruled (pun intended) by masking, a cheap air brush offers better control, cheaper paint, and custom mixing compared to a spray can.


----------



## Anakist

Thanks Nil, But I would rather get a good one from the start. I thought about getting a cheap one, but the LHS said that most of them aren't worth it. Apparently the cheap ones here are prone to spatter and clogging.

James


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## Nil

They're all prone to clogging if not treated right, and the beauty of Lexan is that spattering doesn't show, unless you traction roll. I'd also point out that air brushes are not something you master overnight; I prefer to spend my time building/repairing/racing rather than learning to use one of those.


----------



## Guest

Yer, I'll second what Nil has to say.

I actually purchased my Airbrush from the US and saved about £45 (USD$60) on a £75 airbrush! So it is well worth looking at some of the US online stores like TowerHobbies and see what you like the look of, once you've found something, have a check round for somewhere that may have it cheaper (This is HM's cue to throw in his popular site which ive forgotten  at least i think its HM)

The main cost i've found is the air!! 
Cans or Compressor??
At pretty much the same price as a can of paint, you get about 50% more bodyshells done when painting with Cans of Air (Propellant (sp?)) but with a compressor you get loads of practice for free! you can afford to try things without having to spend on another can etc, but you've got the cost of the compressor!! Thats not cheap!! I paid £140 ($180 ish) but its well worth it, especially if you know your gonna be sticking with painting, if its just a phase, its an expensive phase!!

PC2K


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## Anakist

Yeah the compressor will be the killer. My dad owns an industrial supply company, so I can get a compressor for cost +10%. And, I am thinking of getting a cheap, 12vDC one and making/buying a tank for it. I won't need much airflow so it should be ok. Then I can take it to the track to clean the dust off too. 

James


----------



## Nil

I started out with a Badger set that included a Propel can and a lid/regulator for it. Badger sells an adapter for the lid that you can screw onto a spare tire. Then, with a bicycle pump and old tire (on the rim; an inner tube alone won't hold the pressure), I'd paint, pump, paint, pump. Good excercise, cheap, but it got old fast.


----------



## Anakist

That is a good idea. I will have to look at that. I could probably make an adapter. Hmmm. Thanks Nil. I was thinking of an old LPG cylinder with inlet and outlet adapters. Then just a manual switch and relay for the compressor. I can get a cylinder easy, and the compressors are about $20 and go to 150psi. Then I just put a "real" welding regulator on it for pressure and flow rate and an adapter to connect to the airbrush.

James


----------



## JSBodies

HM- busy as ever, lot's of painting to do. the Yelllow pages thing sounds great! Been trying to catch all the spazstix stuff, but Spaz can't seem to make it fast enough for HRP. It's always out when I order from them ( weekly) Parma has a new airbrush?



Paul C2K- Great! you'll be able to keep them in supply now.I definitely enjoy working with them more than laquers now that I have become acustomed to them.


Anakist-  dodgy.......... 
Help yourself to them man! the Mugen body is up on e-bay now.


----------



## HauntedMyst

JS,

Yeah, they do, though I am sure they are just putting their sticker on it. Iwata had their Revolution at the show, along with their other brushes. Mine arrived today and I am chomping at the bit to try them out! In my short 2+ years of painting, I've never once seen anyone say a single bad thing about an Iwata brush.


Anakist,
I'm of the opinion you get what you pay for. I don't know what a Revolution or an Eclipse would cost you over there, but they are very well made. I've gotten by with an Aztek 4709, which I think is a great brush but is definately NOT an airbrush meant to spray paint as thick as Parma Fascolors. It was designed to spray at 40 psi or less with modelers paints. The upside is that it uses different plastic tips so you can adjust your spray easily by changing tips and no paint ever enters the brush, so clean up is ridiculously easy. The down side is that it uses different plastic tips, and none of the tips can spray fascolor very finely at all and the tips wear out much faster then a metal brush, so you end up spending $10 every 4 months or so for a new one.


----------



## Guest

I went down the Car tire adapter route too, but that encouraged me to buy a Compressor!!
I actaully bought a car tyre pump for a few £££ and let that fill the tyre rather than the bike pump/exercise! but the hassel of pumping, changing adapter, attaching airbush hose, spraying for a few minutes and then the changing pressure throughout didnt help, so out came a handfull of notes!

PC2K


----------



## JSBodies

yep, can't go wrong with an Iwata!


----------



## Guest

Guys,
Seeing as were now on the subject or airbrushes etc, I have a Badger 155 Anthem and it seemed to have everything i'd need, the Badger name seemed to be a reliable one (for what i knew anyway).
The only thing i would say against it is that the ajustable needle (is that the dual action bit?) doesn't give a narrow enough spray. Theres no way i can do fine detail on the car. It sprays far too wide and if i get closer, the air movement disturbs the paint and you have the ripple effect. The Laquers dont do the ripple due to them being much thinner, but even then theres no small area control over the paint.

Anyway, What would both of you suggest as a step up from my 155-A?
I think the main reason i bought that was its features, the price was within range, and it being all chrome looked as sexxy as hell! 

So, keeping within say $150, what would you guys recommend?

PC2K


----------



## Nil

I'm not sure about that model, but many airbrushes, including other Badger models, have different size tips; smaller for fine, larger for area. Check the manual to see if a smaller one is available.

Also, can you cut back on the air pressure so that you can get closer without the problems?


----------



## Guest

The Badger has the adjustable needle, so there isnt a need for different tips, as when you pull back on the trigger, the needle pulls back it changes the tip's size (to some extent)
As for pressure, Im a 15psi guy all the way. Dont need to go higher, or lower than that. 

Would a Higher pressure on waterbased be recommended? I guess a low setting could result in spitting, so maybe thats where the problem lies, any ideas??

PC2K


----------



## JSBodies

Paul- spray the water based paints at 30-35 psi, you will be quite pleased. They don't thin enough to spray as well as the laquers your used too, but they work well other wise.

I use an Iwata eclipse, which uses one needle also. I find that drop shadows work best with slightly thinned color at 30 psi. Try to over lap the graphics you wish to shadow a bit more than you would the laquers if nothing else works


----------



## Guest

My first experiance of Laquers was Alclads chrome about 6 weeks after it arrived on US shores, and besides Alclad, there is no RC Laquer paints. Ive been using Parma/Createx paints for the past year, and I prefered 15psi with about 8"/200mm distance from the shell, but for detail like shaddow, i found it impossible due to rippling, so higher would sound the opposite, but perhaps im getting paint spatter rather than a general spray range. I'll check it out with your suggestion.

PC2K


----------



## Guest

JSBodies: I checked into the situation of why you have not been able to get Spaz Stix Paints from HRP when you are ordering. It was actually a pretty complex deal. First off, I just want you to know that this posting is solely for your information and not to be taken personally in any way. 

Every day I check over HRP's stock. And so far, I have not had any problems keeping all of the products stocked daily at their warehouse. I asked Mike about this. He told me that you do most of your purchasing on the internet from HRP. What is happening is if there is more product on back order than there is on hand in the computer, then it will show as a 0 on the internet. Some customers will preorder their stuff or have an order they want shipped air and want the paint shipped with their next order in a day or 2 so it gets backordered and hurts the online quantities that are actually in their warehouse ready to be pulled. There is also the case that if the paperwork (invoice) that I give them has not been entered into the computer system, then you will also show 0 while there is product on their shelves. As it gets busier over there, the paperwork will lag a little bit more than when it is slow. 

Bottom line: As long as you order the Spaz Stix Paints, I can almost 100% guarantee you that it is on their shelves and ready to be pulled and shiped to you. I am not sure if you can order anything that is showing 0 on the computer, so Mike recommends giving him a call anytime at 1-800-622-7223 to make sure you are taken care of to the best of his ability.

I sure hate to see anyone being a victim of the system. Do you have any ideas or suggestions that I could pass along to HRP? Just email me ([email protected]) Thanks for understanding and once again I apologize for the trouble this has caused.


----------



## JSBodies

Spaz- thanks man! I was able to get a whole bunch of paint from HRP this week, spent over $140 on it. Picked up 2 of the 4" light kits and black light paints, can't wait to try them! Grabbed up 4 bottles of chrome too. I do all of my ordering on-line in the evenings as it's the only free time I have. I also run a tight budget, so large back orders are out of the question for now but I will sure order all of the paint even if it's "0" from now on.


Thanks again!


----------



## JSBodies

Spaz- it wasdn't any trouble, I'm very patient and don't mind waiting lol.........


----------



## Guest

JSBodies - Right on man:thumbsup: Just wanted to make sure you were being taken care of


----------



## Guest

*Toyota AE86 Levin*









Basic paint/masking job. The front bumper and window lines are stickers though.


----------



## Anakist

Just finished racing today. Last in the B main  Everybody loved the Lexus though, so it wasn't all bad. Dodge Viper next I think.

James


----------



## Guest

Alvin - Great photographing. Looks almost like a real car. The color schemes match very well with the backgrounds. Might want to add a slight line or 2 down the sides to simulate a door.


----------



## Anakist

Looks good Alvin.

James


----------



## HauntedMyst

Very nice Alvin! Very clean lines and great photography!


----------



## JSBodies

Alvin- sweet!!!! very cool photography too.


----------



## Nil

*Great Depth of Field*

Alvin:

Can you tell us a little about how you photographed this? From the depth of field, it certainly looks like a pinhole camera, scanned after developing, rather than a digital camera.


----------



## Anakist

Good question Nil. It does look like a good quality camera. Too much of the picture is in focus for it to be any of the digital camera's I have seen.

James


----------



## Guest

Hiya!
Sorry guys for the late reply - I'm quite swamped with work.

Ok I used a sony dsc-p9. The original image was taken at about 1pm at 1280x1024 resolution.

I took the picture by placing the camera on the ground; I put a plastic bag on the ground for protection below the camera (noon tarmac is hot! and dusty) and snapped it from there. That's about it.

However I made some changes to the camera settings - by switching off all auto focus and auto stuff. 

E.g. No autofocus, I set the focal distance to 1m. Speeds up phototaking too. 

No auto-ISO setting (whatever that is) I used a value of ISO400 for the picture. I should have used an iso value of 200 - much less noise in the high-res picture. But an iso of 400 allows me to shoot photos faster, especially when i'm on the move or shooting fast moving objects.

Manual white balance - I simply set to daylight. Looks good in the viewfinder.

Digital zoom is shut off also, so only pure optical zoom. Digital zoom gives pixelation anyway. I don't think this makes a difference as I'm shooting at... minimal zoom. Yeah.

"Spot meter" was on, but i have no idea what that does.

I got 2 more shots with my Celica, check 'em out here: 

http://www.kimochi3d.com/misc/ae86celica.jpg
http://www.kimochi3d.com/misc/ae86celica2.jpg

I would advice you guys to bring along some headwear and a piece of dark plastic/thick paper to shield the viewfinder from the sunlight - in broad daylight the lcd is next to useless. I had to virtually lie down on the bloody tarmac, shield the lcd, and then snap the shot. 

Thanks for the praise dudes!

Regards,
Alvin


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## Anakist

Wicked. Looks like all that effort was worth it.

James


----------



## JSBodies

Alvin, very nice work. hope to see more of your work here soon!

Well , I finally got the hang of the new spaz stix color change paint.
I was amazed at the amount of bodies on e-bay that are painted with it though! My chrome and color change MBX crowd pleazer body didn't get a single bid.

Oh well, back to the drawing board!


----------



## JSBodies

Hey guys, Hank made the painting thread "sticky"  ! now we won't have to chase it down, and those with painting questions will be able to quickly find it and post their questions now. 

Thanks Hank!!!


----------



## Anakist

Yeah it is good JS. Unlucky with the body. I wish I could afford it.

James


----------



## Anakist

Doesn't HPI have a 190mm Dodge Viper body???

James


----------



## JSBodies

Anakist, checked HPI's site and they don't have one posted on the 
190mm page.


----------



## Nil

Anakist said:


> *Doesn't HPI have a 190mm Dodge Viper body???*


Doesn't look like it. Parma does:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDA48&P=7

Parma is generally a little lower in detail than HPI. I like 'em 'cause Parma is a suburb of Cleveland, even if they're in North Royalton (another suburb) now, and they have a good selection of American iron. There web site stinks, though. Tower has more info on Parma bodies than Parma!?!?!


----------



## JSBodies

Nil-  lol man.............


----------



## Anakist

Hmm, I didn't think so. Pity. I am going to have to find one over here then.

James


----------



## JSBodies

Hey, here's a shot of my latest,a NSX for my micro.

micro NSX


----------



## Nil

JS:

Looks sharp; any estimate on the number of hours this took? 

Anakist:

Tower takes foreign orders; I've been dealing with them for over 15 years.


----------



## JSBodies

Anikist- start to finish was about 4 hours.


----------



## Anakist

Nil,
I am trying to avoid the hassle of getting it from overseas. If the lhs can get it in, then it isn't my problem if it is damaged in transit. Hopefully he can get one.

James


----------



## JSBodies

lol..... must have been up too late!
got my names mixed up!


----------



## HauntedMyst

Beautiful work JS!


----------



## Guest

*Water based paints*

Hi, i've been spraying shells with an airbrush for a couple of years now, mainy for myself. After a year of being fed up with the standard cellulose paint coming off, i tried the water based paints used to paint real cars. The range of colours is extremely great and the best part is, it won't come off at all, even if the shell gets permenatly creased. You don't need expensive thinners as you just use water and can even spray it neat. Hope this can save some dissapointment. Keep up the great work with the forum.

L.Larry.:thumbsup:


----------



## Nil

LL:
Sounds interesting. Can you give us some particulars, like brand names, smallest can sizes, costs?


----------



## Guest

Charlie Barnes is Da' Man !!! :dude:
Check out his latest work !!!


----------



## Northerner

*Now that is a really awesome paintjob!!*


----------



## Guest

Yep, Charlie B is Da Man alright!!
Jesse, see about getting some pics in the dark, should look killer!!

PC2K


----------



## HauntedMyst

Yeah, charlie's work is outstanding. Paul, did you see the "How to paint" update yet? Click here


----------



## Guest

Yer, I got it off Jesse, but i thought i'd emailed you about it, spotted 2 silly spelling mistakes, just pointed them out for you and commented on how brilliant (as usual) it was.

It was:

*Section IV: Specialty Paints*
What is it, 
It should be noted that _Alcad_ II is available 

Glow in the dark
line of paints which _as_ even more intense then the Xtreme Glow paints!


Ah, the top one has been changed, but not the other.

PaulC2K


----------



## Guest

*Re : Nil*

Hi Nil,

I live in England and use the French car company, Peugeot's paints. I go to the local dealer and ask for the leftover paint. There is always some left over as they need to mix slightly more than is required. I take in my own clean jars from old paints and ask them to fill them up for me. The price should be low as they cannot mix it with a fresh batch and therefore it is useless to them. Hope this is a help to you, 

L.Larry. :thumbsup:


----------



## HauntedMyst

Larry,

That is a great idea!

Thanks!


----------



## Guest

Heres my latest bodyshell, its a HPI GS400 (200mm) and its a test run of a shell im planning on running for one of the regional tournaments coming up this weekend, ive got the same design on a Yokomo Stratus (190) but with Holographic paint rather than silver, and im going to see which i like best, I'll be taking this Holo shell along even if i dont pick that design for my other shells, and hopefully speak to one of the peeple from the UK Car Mags and see if they'll get a pic of the paint in the magazine, bit of extra coverage wont go amiss!

L. Larry:
Where about in the UK are you?
As my username suggests im in Manchester, live anywhere local?

Hope you all like the car, i'll try and get pics of the holo version once its done, got 4 shells to do in 4 days along with run-in a new car and pack everything up and get ready, im terrible at that, im the messy person at the track, you all know the one, the guy who needs 2-3 tables because of all the junk he brings with him, thats me!! and it takes days to get all that rubbish into a pit box!!

PaulC2K


----------



## Anakist

Looks good Paul. And a good choice of body too 

James


----------



## HauntedMyst

just testing some new stuff.


----------



## HauntedMyst

never ever buy a crappy digitial camera


----------



## T-Main

*JS BODIES*

Hows it going? Long time, HUH? I finally got my spraying down to using the right pressure for the right paint....I am finally spraying at 60+ PSI. and with great results.


----------



## T-Main

picture


----------



## T-Main

PaulC2K said:


> *Yer, I got it off Jesse, but i thought i'd emailed you about it, spotted 2 silly spelling mistakes, just pointed them out for you and commented on how brilliant (as usual) it was.
> 
> It was:
> 
> Section IV: Specialty Paints
> What is it,
> It should be noted that Alcad II is available
> 
> Glow in the dark
> line of paints which as even more intense then the Xtreme Glow paints!
> 
> 
> Ah, the top one has been changed, but not the other.
> 
> PaulC2K *


Can I ask where you are getting those glow in the dark paints?


----------



## Guest

You most certainly can.....

Oh right  There made by a WONDERFUL company called Spaz Stix Inc, They have a wide range of fancy paints (dont do things in halves!) including the Glow in the dark paints there is also Color change, UV Reactive paint (Ultra Violet), Chrome and a Stronger version of the glow paints called Radioactive.

You can have a good look around the www.SpazStix.com website, there is a gallery on there, its under construction but half of it is working. 

I'll point out now that im doing there website, so feel free to comment on things you dislike about it (seriously!), im in the UK, but the paints are based in the US, and i dont actually work there (the traffic is terrible from here to there! ) but i do speak to the top dog Jesse who is on here frequently.

I've been meaning to get the whole gallery up, but im in need of photos for the 'Spaz Stix pix' section most of the cars on the site are ones ive done for myself or friends!! 
And one of Haunted Mysts is on there too, a damn nice one it is too!

PaulC2K


----------



## Guest

By the way, Stunning paintjobs guys!!

PC2K


----------



## ChrisHarris

*body fit question*

I figure this has to be the place to get an answer to my question. I am looking for replacement bodies for my XXT and having problems finding them at my LHS (they don't carry Losi). My question is basically what bodies will fit on that truck? Lots of bodies out there for the AEs and such. You even see them more readily advertised for the XXXT. Can anybody tell me what makes them different? Is it body mount position, shocks position requiring bulges in different places, style? If a given body can be made to fit is it a question of trimming body postsor what?

I know I can order one up from the manufacturer but I would like to know my options. Thanks in advance!

Keep painting!


----------



## Guest

*Real car paints*

PaulC2k,

I live in the midlands but I would have thought that you could get the paint from any Peugot garage. I've got the full range now and it comes to about 20 different colours including a couple of two tone ones. I don't know whether any other car companies use the same paints so you'd have to ask around.

Hope this has helped, Larry.


----------



## GiantScale

*Are those airbrushs any good?*

I have two airbrush setups I have never used & was wondering if they are even worth trying with the new water based lexan paints for lexan car bodies. 

1) Badger 350 single action 
1) Testors (Aztek) A320 single action w/propellant 

I can convert them to CO2 powered. 

Should I scrap them & get a better new airbrush , or with CO2 can they work well for car bodies? 

Thanks 

Mike


----------



## T-Main

We had a guy at our Off Road track mount a XXXT body on his XXT. I t fit very well too. You just have to make sure you take your time getting holes in right spots...


----------



## Nil

*Re: Are those airbrushs any good?*



GiantScale said:


> *. . . Should I scrap them & get a better new airbrush , or with CO2 can they work well for car bodies? . . .*


 It depends on what you want to do with them. The gas you use is inconsequential, as long as it is pressure regulated, reasonable temperature, and dry. Since the investment for CO2 operation would be there regardless of the brush you use, I'd get the CO2 rig and try them out. I used my Badger 350 for years until the washer in the air valve dried up; it's not replaceable.


----------



## JSBodies

Hey everybody......haven't been around much...........

RENBLAST-nice work man! You have come a long way grasshopper  

Giantscale- the Badger 350 was my firstbrush, and will give you great results til you get the hang of painting car bodies. Co2 will work great too.

Chris- Ren is right, the XXX-T should fit pretty well or Try Dahm's 
Racing Bodies....tell em' J.S. sent ya


HM- lol............. get a better camera! nice work !

Charlie is definitely got it going on................


----------



## T-Main

Thank You very much. Here is one for myself for NORRCA NATS in Columbus Ohio....


----------



## ChrisHarris

*bodies for XXT*

Thanx guys!

I have been looking at those Dahm's bodies. There are some sweet ones! Just found a stock SSt body at my local track so I am good for the moment but I will keep all in mind!


----------



## JSBodies

Ren- dude! those colors rock! very sweet scheme. What paints are you using now?


Chris- good luck, if I run across one of the XX-T's in some old stock I'll let ya know.

Nil......... it dried up? man, guess I need to drag mine out and see if it's still ok!


----------



## T-Main

Thanks Again JSB..  I am using the Fascolors and the Createx still. I am getting ready to build an RC shed out back and will probably change though


----------



## GiantScale

*Nice..*

Nice work Renblast. 

I'll give the badger a try.

What psi range am I shooting for here for my regulator?? 

Is there a site (URL) I can read instead of asking newbie questions? 

Thanks

Mike


----------



## Nil

The pressure depends on how thick the paint is, how thin a line you want, how far away you want to hold it, your personal preferences, etc. I'd start with 20-25 psi and play with it on something that isn't critical, and plan on the first couple of bodies being simple paint jobs. Use masking tape, and _try_fading, but plan on the fade not coming off real well at first.

Like driving, it takes practice to get good. (From one who is too impatient to do either well)


----------



## ChrisHarris

*XXT body decals*

Found a body at the track hobby shop! (heck, I found the track which I didn't know existed ). Now, the question is where one can get appropriate headlight and grill decals. The standard Losi package comes with nothing. Well, it does have window masks but they don't come close to fitting!


----------



## ChrisHarris

*XXT decals cont.*

Darn whatever key I pressed that fired that last one off..

So, to continue, If I can't find headlight decals easily (I really wanted to run the body this weekend so time is way short), Can you guys give me some ideas of alternate detailing for the front end? I don't have a functional airbrush right now so I am pretty much stuck with spray cans and tape for this particular body.


----------



## T-Main

Chris. I know you can get them at ...www.rlhobbies.com. Or if you are pretty good at masking and ctting you can paint them in. Good Luck


----------



## Nil

Depending on the configuration, you may be able to put a strip of masking tape across the headlights, rub the outline with a thumbnail, and cut on the headlight outline with a sharp X-acto knife. Remove the headlight area and mask around the first strip, then spray.

Silver looks good, but a light yellow can be a standout color.

You can do the window masking similarly, but remove around the window instead. This often results in a better fit than pre-cut masking.


----------



## Guest

Has anyone tried masking over water based paints? Someone told me that they did this and the paint came off with the masking tape. Will Liquid mask to the same thing?


----------



## JSBodies

Yep, liquid mask will lift the paint worse than tape( laquers hold up better). If it's been clearcoated though, the tape might not lift it up.


----------



## Guest

Renblast: Very nice paint jobs !!! How long have you been painting bodies? I am new to the scene. Do you have a url where I can view more of your work? 

JSBodies: Thanks for the information. I will pass it on. And I am looking forward to trying it myself. I have never done a paint job where you mask off after painting. Sounds interesting and I just have too find out what it's all about now. There is one thing that I don't understand. What is the advantage of Liquid Masking over vinyl or 3m tape?


----------



## ChrisHarris

*fake headlights*

Well, I experimented and it wasn't too bad! I decided that I wouldn't be able to mimic "real" headlights so I cut four circles of tape and placed them prior to painting the truck. The front is flor. yellow backed with white. When that was done I peeled the tape and sprayed candy blue (to mimic those funky lights people have today) Came out looking real cool but I didn't have quite enough white so there is a hint of the blue showing through. 

Not bad for a rookie! Thanks for the input.


----------



## HauntedMyst

Spaz,
This is just my experience, but this is what I have found.

Liquid Mask: Pros, Lets you mask the whole body at once easily. If you have a steady hand, you can draw and cut just about any design into it. Never leaks (unless you pull it up and then try to put it back down. Cons, if you don't put enough on, its a bear to get up. Hard to make symetric designs in it. Harder to make straight lines in it then with masking tape (though I've just cut a strip of excess lexan off the extra on the uncut body and it seems to work nicely.

Vinyl: Pros, Expensive, but works and is the best of all worlds if you have a vinyl cutter like a Sticka. Even if you don't, it makes it easier to mask symetric designs since it usually comes in larger sheets. It does nice clean lines (a good alternative for lines is electrical tape since it seals nicely and cuts a clean edge. Cons: Don't conform as well to complex curves as LM. There are some thinner vinyl sheets that are brittle. Some vinyls leave a residue when you pull them up. 

Masking Tape: Pros, its cheap. Cons, Some people like it. I hate it. It leaks easily. When you use a hairdryer to speed up the drying, it lifts.


----------



## Nil

*In defense of masking tape*

I've had little problem with paint running under masking tape. Two precautions reduce this: First, make sure it's down. Run a thumbnaile all the way around the edges. Second, put a light coat on first to seal the edges.

Hair drier lifting: This has never happened to me. Maybe I don't get it hot enough.


----------



## JSBodies

Spaz- taping ovr a painted area is usually done to fix a mistake, and I don't think any one here uses any techniques involving mask over paint. At least I don't. With liquid mask, your only limits are your imagination and masking tape limits the complexity of graphics you can do. For instance, the body painted below could not have been easily done with masking tape due to the amount of color changes and detail of the graphics involved. The easier 2 and 3 color design's can always be acomplished with masking tape and lot's of patience.
The biggest thing with liquid mask is to remeber to score through it only and not into the lexan body which will cause it to break at the score line. A "feel" for the depth of the knife as it cuts through the mask is something that you'll develop over time and is needed to be sucessful with liquid mask designs.



www.jsbodies.com/showtruck02.jpg


www.jsbodies.com/showtruck03.jpg


----------



## Guest

JS & HM: Thanks for all of the information. I am starting to grab onto the concept now. I do have another question. Do you spray the entire shell down and then cut your designs as you go? Or just spray certain areas?
Thanks.


----------



## JSBodies

Spaz- yes. spray or brush the whole body with 2 coats of liquid mask allowing them to dry completely. draw your design on the outside of the body with a fine point sharpie ( remove it later with denatured alcohol ) and cut out the design completely. be careful to cut through the mask only! Peel the darkest part of the design off and paint your darkest color first working to the lightest color last. an old airbrush needle works great for picking the liquid mask up as you paint.

hope this helps!


----------



## Guest

JSB: Thanks !!! I was really hoping to get to try this out over the weekend. Not looking likely. I will test my skills in a couple of days and let you know how it turns out.


----------



## T-Main

www.renblastgraphics.com

Thank You for the compliment... 

I have been painting for about 4 yrs and 1 yr Good


----------



## Guest

Renblast: Thanks for the link. I especially like your latest design. The Patriot Rebel. Great work. :thumbsup:


----------



## Fred B

Taping over the painted areas is usually reserved automotive stuff. You can also tape over painted areas on RC bodies to help keep the weight down.

Mask around anything that's silver because the silver RC paints weigh a ton. Sometimes I mask over white instead of backing it before I finish flames or pin stripes next to the white.

I read back a little about some people having a little trouble with masking tape bleeding through...If you use the green 3M tape available at any automotive paint shop it won't bleed as long as you use the back of your fingernail to press the tape down.

Liquid mask is only the way to go if you're really good with an exacto. Any mistakes will look like scratches when you're done.


----------



## T-Main

Here is one I did for a guy who like M&M's. He gave me a picture of his old one. The old one was all stickers. This on I painted for him.......


----------



## HauntedMyst

Nice work!


----------



## Anakist

Looks good!!


----------



## Guest

Renblast: That is definitely a one of a kind !!! I haven't seen anything like that before. Nice Job !!!


----------



## Anakist

What will a 200mm body on a 190mm car look like?? I am thinking of a viper body.

James


----------



## Nil

Since you're only talking about 5 millimeters on each side, the difference isn't much. What it looks like, though, is largely a matter of taste as long as you don't race someplace with tight tech standards.


----------



## JSBodies

Ren- sweet................ I like M&M's !!!


----------



## Anakist

Thanks Nil. Thats what I was thinking.

James


----------



## T-Main

Thanks for all the compiments..... 

workin hard at it......


----------



## rckfracing

wow that would lokk sweet on a pan car body


----------



## Anakist

What is new in the painting world? I am going to do a Viper body when I get the funds and the time. It will be similar to the Lexus. Maybe be a bit more creative.

And, I am painting my full sized car. Hehehe. It will be white with claret around the bottom and all the accessories (wiper blades, bumpers etc) will be claret as well.

James


----------



## Dan the Man

A Viper ought to either be one solid color or have two wide, high-contrast stripes down the middle. Anything else would be just wrong.


----------



## JSBodies

Dan... lol  here's a "wrong Viper" for ya!

Viper


----------



## T-Main

here is my own new personal body. I just can never decide


----------



## Dan the Man

JS Bodies - "Sick and..."


----------



## Anakist

OK Dan. I will see what I can do. I have some good 1 inch tape, so two stripes with that.

James


----------



## Dan the Man

Thusly:










I'll have to settle for my zippy Subaru, but Gawd I'd love to have 500 hp and 500 ft-lb...


----------



## JSBodies

YEAH BABY !!!! some REAL street horsepower! sigh. a real one would be nice!


----------



## JSBodies

Ren- I know the feeling man! Nice truck though. You got the flames down so sweet..................


----------



## Anakist

Yeah well. It is only $550,000AUD. Just think, if I don't eat, pay rent, spend anything, it will take me about 55 years to save up at the moment. I need a good job.

James


----------



## Dan the Man

With the exchange rate that's about SIX times what it costs here. Are the import fees really so high?


----------



## Anakist

I don't know. That is the price I saw in the paper. Pretty typical of cool stuff over here ($100 for a sport, unmatched 3000hv stick pack w/tamiya plugs.)

James


----------



## JSBodies

hey everyone. how's painting? I just tried out the new paRMA "FASFLIP" paint. it looks great! no fumes too. I was amazed at how well it looked compared to laquer based colors. It's basically the clear that's used to waterproof the body with color added into it along with a marble to help shake things up a bit before painting. you guy's should really give it a try. It will be on the pricey side though compared to the regular faskolor paints. 

also, found out that the Spazstix black light rig works well with the water based flourescents too, but isn't quite as bright as Spaz's laquers are...... this set up is real sweet, but I haven't found a practical application yet besides cruising up & down the street at night. I think off road racing might be a bit rough on the old bulb?


----------



## Anakist

Have yo got pics of the Fasflip?? Sounds cool

James


----------



## JSBodies

not yet, will try to get some up in the next few days.


----------



## ChrisHarris

*newbie questions*

The four or five bodies I have painted have all been done with cans. With mixed results. I want to graduate to an air brush.

Question #1: What is the difference between single and double action?

Question #2: The water based paints out there seem like a great alternative to the toxic stuff in the spray cans. How does one dilute these and what pressure would one use for them? Does that change with which brush you have? I picked up a basic Badger to experiement with...

Question #3 (well, the last one was really two, wasn't it?): I believe the paints I saw were Fascolors. They are labelled as Purple and Blue and such but they sure look off-white with a 'hint' of those colors. What is up with those? How does one use them, etc?

TIA! Chris


----------



## JB_The_Evader

Dan the Man said:


> *A Viper ought to either be one solid color or have two wide, high-contrast stripes down the middle. Anything else would be just wrong. *


I'd have to agree with you there, Dan...
Viper GTS Coupe, red with white stripes, it doesn't get much better than that.


----------



## Nil

*Re: newbie questions*



ChrisHarris said:


> *Question #1: What is the difference between single and double action?*


Double action gives you better control, but is a bit more work to keep clean.



> *Question #2: The water based paints out there seem like a great alternative to the toxic stuff in the spray cans. How does one dilute these and what pressure would one use for them? Does that change with which brush you have? I picked up a basic Badger to experiement with...*


Fascolor doesn't generally need thinned. I have used rubbing alcohol with some (non-Lexan) acryilics.

Pressure, well, it depends. Experiment and practice. 15-30 pounds will cover most anything, but that's a wide variation.



> *Question #3 (well, the last one was really two, wasn't it?): I believe the paints I saw were Fascolors. They are labelled as Purple and Blue and such but they sure look off-white with a 'hint' of those colors. What is up with those? How does one use them, etc?*


I've used a lot of Fascolor and never seen what you're talking about. Did you try shaking them? They may have been on the shelf a long time. Don't buy them unless they get to be a decent color when shaken.


----------



## Anakist

Could they be the faschange ones??

James


----------



## JSBodies

Jb, sounds like you might have looked at parma's new fasflip(chromalusion style) colors. The colors are suspended in the clear coat that parma sells and must be well shaken before spraying. then back them with a dark color such as black or blue for a great result!


----------



## HauntedMyst

*Re: newbie questions*



ChrisHarris said:


> *The four or five bodies I have painted have all been done with cans. With mixed results. I want to graduate to an air brush.
> 
> Question #1: What is the difference between single and double action?
> *



With Single Action, it requires a single action to spray. You push down the button and both air and paint come out. With double action, you push down to start the airflow and pull back to adjust how much paint comes out. A single action is initially easier to work with but will limit you in terms of fades. Double action allows much finer control. Make the jump and just get a double action right away.



ChrisHarris said:


> *Question #2: The water based paints out there seem like a great alternative to the toxic stuff in the spray cans. How does one dilute these and what pressure would one use for them? Does that change with which brush you have? I picked up a basic Badger to experiement with...*


You dilute or thin the Parma Fascolors and Pactra Acryls paints with water. Parma recommends about a tablespoon per bottle when they need it but they rarely need it. As for pressure, experiment. Parma says they should be sprayed between 40 and 70 psi. I've shot them as low as 30 and as high as 110. Your brush make a slight difference in the pressure. My Azteks need to be cranked on high, my Iwatas spray nicely at a lower pressure.




ChrisHarris said:


> *Question #3 (well, the last one was really two, wasn't it?): I believe the paints I saw were Fascolors. They are labelled as Purple and Blue and such but they sure look off-white with a 'hint' of those colors. What is up with those? How does one use them, etc?
> TIA! Chris *


Those were Parmas Faschange paints. It was their first attempt at color changing paint. True color change paint (like Spaz Stix color change) changes color depending on the angle of the light striking it. At one angle the car looks blue, at another green or purple. The Parma Faschange is more of a high light change paint. The car is, for example, red and then when the light strikes it, it will have a slight color change on the highlighted area, like blue.

While there are many ways to apply this stuff and I would invite you to experiment with different thick nesses and backing colors, there is a classic way is to use this paint. Let's assume you want a white car with blue high light color changing effects.

1. Take the prepped body and with the Faschange Blue paint in your airbrush with a fine nozzle and the compressor cranked on high, apply a very ONE thin coat of the Faschange paint. When you are spraying, go slow and make it even. Don't go back over areas or you risk putting on too much which will muddy the main body color. The general rule is, when it looks milky, you have applied too much. 
2. Use a hairdryer to dry the first coat and wait 30 minutes. 
3. Flush your airbrush out with water to keep the paint from drying in the brush. 
4. Apply the main white body color. Simply spray this as you would a one color paint job, with 3 to 4 coats of white Faskolor paint 
5. Back it with a coat of silver. 
6. Finish the body as you normally would. To see it change colors, take it out in the sun. 



For more information on airbrush painting R/C cars, go here


----------



## ChrisHarris

*You guys are Great!*

Thanks for all the input. I am pretty sure the stuff I saw was, indeed, the Faschange. I will be back at the track tonight and check again. I suspected it was a first coat sort of thing but there wasn't any sort of instruction as to what to do with it!

Just got a new (less used) truck last night so I have no choice but to do up a body! Can't wait!

Chris


----------



## Guest

*More Spaztix !!!*


----------



## Anakist

Wow. They look awesome.

James


----------



## rowle1jt

How do you do the window outlines? Is it paint or is it a tape-like trim? 
thanks
Jake


----------



## Guest

Jake,
it is painted on...just cut out the trim on your wondow masks and paint away!

charlie b


----------



## Advil

Charlie, you are just SICK!!!!

Ever going to come back up to Salinas?

Art


----------



## Guest

Hey ART!!! WHats ur schedule like for Dec/Jan? I will be off school for x mas break.

charlie b


----------



## planet honda

Hi, I have ben having trouble getting the chrome paint to stick to my bodies. I have painted the front of some of my touring car bodies in chrome, and after a couple of smacks on the boards, the chrome starts to chip of. I have put it on in thick coats and light coats and I always back it with faskolor black, and it always seems to chip off.

Any help would be great.


----------



## T-Main

I don't back mine at all anymore and have had 0 complaints


----------



## HauntedMyst

I've found the Chromes to be the most sensitive of all the paints I've ever painted. Chrome doesn't react well to any soap, release agents, or dirt on the body. I find even the smallest of residue will affect it, so your best bet is to wipe the area down with high alcohol content iso alcohol before you spray it and then hit the area with a hair dryer to make sure its extra dry. Also, chrome needs to be sprayed very thinly and a the tendancy is to want to see it as you spray the way you do with fascolors so people usually apply it too thick. People like JS, Charlie and Ren as used to working slow with this stuff and thats the best way to get good results with it. Also, make sure its not only dry, but cured before you back it. If you follow those 3 steps, you should have good results with it. On a personal note, I think Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome sprays more evenly and dries quicker then Alclad so I am more used to spray that then the Alcad.


----------



## planet honda

Thanks for all the help guys. 

Renblast, the problem I have with not backing it with anything, is that that when fuel from nitro cars hits it, it just eats the chrome right off the body.

I clean my bodys with denatured alcohol before I spray the chrome, but they still chip. They only chip though on my touring car bodies, could it just be though that the chrome is not a flexable type of paint.

The chrome also only chips, when I spray the front of the touring car bodies, and it does not chip anyware else on the body, but just the front.


----------



## JSBodies

Planet Honda- 

I have had a few problems with the chrome too.It's all in the prep like HM said, but the key is really in the dry time, at least 24hrs. before backing it. Isopropyl alcohol is more concentrated than denatured alcohol, so it does clean a bit better (except for the smell) and evaporates just as quick.


----------



## planet honda

Thanks for the help JS, I will try and let it dry longer before backing it.

Does backing it with lacquer based paint over water based paint have any effect on the chrome paint at all, as far as haveing it stick better to the body?


----------



## JSBodies

not that I know of............. I usually spray my chrome graphics first, then paint the rest of the graphics with water based paints after backing it with black. I've found that backing it with laquer based black works well too.


----------



## JSBodies

Talked to HM on the phone last week about liquid mask tips, and thought I would share these with you guys and with a few other painting threads I frequent.



Tips to get even graphics on both sides of the body.....


(1) For masking tape, lay out your tape in overlapping strips on a sheet of glass or self healing cutting mat. using typing paper , draw out your design, and then trace it on the back side of the paper also as you will need both sides.


(2) Place a sheet of carbon paper over the masking tape, place a piece of typing paper on top of it, and re-trace your design on the typing paper and it will transfer to the tape. 


(3) Cut out your design on the glass/cutting matt, weed it out, and you have your graphics for one side. 

(4) Reverse the typing paper to the other side and lay down over new masking tape to get the reverse graphics for the other side.


This also works will with vinyl too! in place of masking tape...


For liquid mask........

(1) Draw your design onto tracing paper for use with liquid mask........ you'll be able to easily transfer your design from one side to the other due to the transparency of the paper, and just retrace it on the outside of the body on each side with a fine point sharpie. 

(2) Draw your design on one side of the body. Using tracing paper, trace over the design on the outside, noting wheel well marks and window openings with small guide marks.


(3) place the traced design on the opposite side of the body on the inside of the body, lining it up using the guide marks for the windows and fender wells, etc. Your graphics will be reversed on the paer but due to it's transparency you will be able to see right through it.

(4) Trace out your design on the body with a sharpie and you are done!



*I tie just about all of my graphics in free hand across the hood of my bodies, but you can draw half of the graphics that you want on tracing paper, fold it in half, and trace them again on the back side. When you unfold the tracing paper, you will an even set of graphics for your hood that meet perfectly in the middle!


----------



## Guest

*What is a liquid mask?*

Hi,
I was reading all of your messages and I was wondering what a "liquid mask" is because I have painted about 6 bodies and I'm getting better and better at it. 



Thankz,
Nate :devil:


----------



## HauntedMyst

Liquid mask is a liquid rubber. You paint it on to the inside of your car with 4 thick coats. When it dries, it dries as a rubbery coating and then you simply cut out the design you want in it with a Xacto knife and peel that section out. Bob Dively's is the best.


----------



## patcollins

*Sputtering Airbrush*

Hey all I have a problem that I hope I can get some ideas on. I have a Paasche VL (dual action siphon feed) and it sputters like a machine gun when Im trying to use it. I thought the paint was too thick orginally so I cleaned the brush real good and then put a bottle of water on it. It even sputtered with the water, tried different tips and needles and the larger opening needle tip helped it some but I really dont think it should be doing it especially with water. I varied the pressure from 20 to 40 psi still did it. 

I went back to my trusty Paasche H (single action siphon feed) and didnt have a single problem. 

Any ideas?


----------



## Nil

When you cleaned it, did you tear it down? I find some of the smaller passages hard to clean, and have to disassemble more than I like to keep things clean.

Also, did you check for any bent or dinged parts near the nozzle?


----------



## patcollins

I cleaned it out real good, I didnt see any damaged parts.

Im new to a dual action brush so am unsure of how to fix things like I am with my single action. Im thinking maybe I have something way out of adjustment?


----------



## Bob Wright

*Alcad Paint*

Just bought some of this to try.The label recomends backing with black.I'm wondering if you back with another color,purple for example will the chrome take on a purple hue?


----------



## Guest

Merry Xmas everyone, 
Been ages since i've been on here, thought i'd pop in and say hello.

Bob, you can back chrome with any colour you like, purple would be a good colour to back it with to get a hint of that colour in there, although i think you have to apply the chrome lightly for it to be noticable.
my suggestion would be to try it before doing anything on the shell, see what the end result is, maybe change the process and try again until you either have something you like, or dont bother if its not as you expected.

Here's a couple of pics of my last few shells, I actually did them all in the same week, and the fact that they all have a Union Jack theme was completely co-incidental!









***More Astra photos here*** 

























hmmm, not sure why they wont allow me to show them with the tag.

PaulC2K


----------



## patcollins

*Found my Problem*

How simple is this...I had the front aircap on the airbrush screwed on finger tight but that wasnt tight enough, used the wrench and it solved both problems. DOH!


----------



## Anakist

Here we go. My latest attempt. Getting annoyed with tape, I think I will get some liquid mask.


















James


----------



## calvin

I'm new to the body painting aspect of R/C cars. I've painted a few with cans and most recently with an airbrush but they have all been single colors and slap on the decals. I now want to try more "exotic" (for me!) painting schemes for my bodies. I am not an artist and have a hard time visualizing things prior to trying them. I was curious if there is an availiable source of templates for various car bodies that you could print out on paper and sketch on various designs and color schemes to see how things look before you screw up a $20 piece of lexan. What do you non-artist types use to visualize your designs prior to committing them to lexan. I will use pictures of other peoples bodies to help me as a guide but I want something a little more individualized. If I could find some sort of template that I coud make copies of to sketch in and try various options, it would be great.


----------



## JSBodies

Calvin- can't help ya...... no one makes r/c specific templates, but it's a good idea!



Here's my daughters micro sporting a VW body.........


buggin.......... 


buggin..........


buggin..........


----------



## Guest

That is brilliant!!
It looks like so much fun!

It looks like a bodyshell that would come with the car, and thats a compliment not a put-down btw! It looks spot on!

PaulC2K


----------



## JSBodies

Paul, thanks!


----------



## patcollins

Does anyone know where to get the green 3M masking tape online? I can't seem to find it locally arround here.


----------



## JSBodies

try coastairbrush.com or bearair.com......... the green 3M tape is
usally found only at commercial automotive paint supply stores and not readily available anywhee else.


----------



## Fred B

If you want another place to try locally, give a call to a few of the local body shops and dealerships. They pretty much all use the green 3M tape and can either sell it to you or give you the source.


----------



## patcollins

Found a place online to buy the green masking tape. 

http://www.autobodysupply.net/

Has anyone used the blue or purple 3M masking tape, how does it compare? You can buy it at Walmart.


----------



## JSBodies

Hello all.... been tied up with my hobby shop and a recent heart attack in january.passed a blood clot it looks like, but everything's getting back to normal I hope! How's the painting been?


Here's a viper I painted up recently that sold on e-bay...........

Viper

Viper


----------



## Guest

Jeeze!! I hope your alright!!
I'd say get well soon, but you sound like your better anyway, so i hope you got well soon!  

I see its done no harm to your stunning airbrushing talents, and I dont think theres anything that could do that!

Yet ANOTHER great bodyshell.
Take it easy!!

PaulC2K


----------



## JSBodies

PaulC2K said:


> Jeeze!! I hope your alright!!
> I'd say get well soon, but you sound like your better anyway, so i hope you got well soon!
> 
> I see its done no harm to your stunning airbrushing talents, and I dont think theres anything that could do that!
> 
> Yet ANOTHER great bodyshell.
> Take it easy!!
> 
> PaulC2K



Thanks Paul ! 

I hope to be painting full time soon, but running the shop almost daily prevent's me from it........ racing season should be picking up for us soon with spring here.. (unless we do go to war) but I hope to be back around more often!


----------



## JSBodies

hello everyone..... how's painting? biz is starting to pick up on my end, and we open to new orders the 20th of this month. 

I have been working with the spazstix some more and got the word from my sales rep at HRP yesterday that the chrome and chromalusion type paints will be a little thicker from now on.

This will allow the paints to be sprayed in fewer coats with better coverage......... very convienient!


----------



## Guest

Good on ya JSB! :thumbsup: 

The new paint is being arranged, with some luck it wont be long till its available. I beleive in terms of the application, it'll be much quicker!!
Unfortunatly i'm not able to see or try the paint being in the UK, but if the reports from Jesse are anything to go from, the paints should take a big jump forward in quite a few departments.
It is a bit too thin for someone like yourself to spray, you wouldnt want to be sat around waiting for layers to dry and having to put 5 layers on compared to say 2/3 normally. That factor has been dealt with, so it should be quicker to shoot soon!

I've spent the past month or so designing a photo gallery for the Spaz Stix website, and although its working as of 4am this morning, its not officially open till the weekend, i've still got to upload all the current pics and hopefully the link will go onto the site.
We'd definatly appreciate some of your pics if you were able to show them on the site? Not sure if thats something you prefer to leave your site to do, but it'd certainly be appreciated if a few of your pics were to go onto the site

Cheers

PaulC2K
http://www.spaz-stix.com


----------



## JSBodies

Paul, I'll get a few pic's together for you and maybe paint up something new also.

Will drop in and check the site out too. There's no way for you to get the paint over to you without a lot of hassle?


----------



## Guest

Its still in experimental stages to some extent, and the new formula is still fairly fresh. I'll probably get some sent over when its a bit further along the developement line, i dont think its far off actually, but it could be that all the ranges will be 'updated' in the same way so they'll probably all come out at the same time rather than in batches.

They'll definatly be more popular, and hopefully a new product or two?? Who knows, but theres plenty of possitive action going on!! 
Unfortunatly i cant expand on it more, but as with everything, the best is yet to come!! 

PaulC2K

oh, thanks for the pics, and im looking forward to the possibilty of a newly painted shell of yours!!


----------



## HauntedMyst

Sorry for the bland pics, the body looks much more metallic in real life and the scales seem to shimmer in the sunlight. Was trying to incorporate the dragon scheme I did a while ago into a cool racing/street scheme without the whole car looking like a dragon/snakes head.

Body: HPI Silvia 190mm
Paint: 
Scales = Faskolor pearl green, pearl blue, fasflourescent green and yellow
Body = Faspearl black and SpazStix chrome.
Mask: Hand cut Bob Dively's Liquid Mask.

Front










Top










The original


----------



## Nil

If you're taking votes, I'd go for the green/orange. Just scare the other cars off the track!


----------



## Anakist

That's awesomd HM!!!! I need to get liquid mask apparently.

Painted my Losi body up and finished a couple of cans of spray so it looks a bit of a hack job where the trim around the bottom is three different colours and about ten different styles. But apart from that it is ok. I will post pics when I can.

I am going to pick up a cheap airbrush and start painting stuff to get the hang of it.

James


----------



## Mames

hey i saw something and had to ask. before the question i will add i am new to painting bodies. i have only done 2 body many years ago with paint brushes. so i know nothing.here goes

was reading the new rc car action, saw the body painting page and started to read . he said he used a shapy to shade some things on the body. will that work or is that asking for troble?

thank you in advace
matt


----------



## JSBodies

This is the most chatter I've seen here in quite a while!!!

Mames- sharpies will bleed through water based paints no matter what.......... o make sure it's completely dry and draw on the body, not the paint.

sharpies do work better on laquer paints, but will bleed through the lighter colors too- especially with spray cans.

use sharpies sparingly! at least pratice on scrap with them first!


Anakist- do get an airbrush! (but not a real cheap one, or you'll be dissapointed with it quickly).......... you'll hardly ever go back to cans  

I'm with Nil.........  


HM...... I knew you couldn't stay away from the airbrush for too long.......... those guys over on the RCzone thread ain't quite got it together eh?


here's another micro for ya..........


Micro GMC


----------



## HauntedMyst




----------



## Krapolla

*airbrushes*

I am looking to start painting bodies. I was wondering what type of set up I should be looking at. I want something that will do a decent job but I'm only looking to get started and will upgrade if I really get into it. I am just wondering what are some key features I should be looking for or what brand names and such. Any info is appreciated.


----------



## Dan the Man

Krapolla said:


> I am looking to start painting bodies. I was wondering what type of set up I should be looking at. I want something that will do a decent job but I'm only looking to get started and will upgrade if I really get into it. I am just wondering what are some key features I should be looking for or what brand names and such. Any info is appreciated.


Get a double-action brush. The high-quality ones are metal. The old standbys are Badger and Paasche. I personally have a Paasche VL, and I like it ok, but it's starting to seem heavy and bulky in the hand. I've heard Iwatas are good.

For a while I was using an Aztek brush. It seemed kind of chintzy but it worked all right, and it was very light and ergonomic. I abandoned it because it was too hard to clean up the tip if you got it clogged with particulates like metallic paint. For smooth paints, like dope or enamel, I loved it. I just didn't trust all that plastic...


----------



## Guest

This probably sounds incredibly dumb.... I have been wondering where the actual paint goes when u paint it. Do u do all the painting on the inside and let it show through the plastic or paint on the outside?

ED :freak:


----------



## Nil

Comp-Nerd said:


> Do u do all the painting on the inside and let it show through the plastic


Ay-yup. That way the paint stays relatively intact when you kiss the boards. The outside is generatlly reserved for stickers and fine detailing line, although flat black, to simulate opening, is better applied outside because flat paint still looks glossy if you put it on the inside.

The thing to remember is to put on the darker colors first, so that they "hide" the lighter colors to follow. If you put on white, then red, the red will show through and give it a pinkish cast.


----------



## Guest

Hmmm yes that does make everything clearer. I was gettin confused. :drunk: 

ED :freak:


----------



## dgraham225

wassup guys, i got a couple of questions. I'm about to paint my first body. i have always had them airbrushed up until now. im not a complete amature though, i've had alot of experience painting model cars, so that may help some.

im going to try and pull off a blue/chrome scheme for my XXX buggy. i was thinking about masking the front of the body with some flame masks, using some of the alclad transparent blue paint and applying it to the back half. then i was gonna peel the mask, use the alclad chrome to back the blue while also painting the once before masked area with the chrome. i've also heard something about backing chrome finishes with some silver. will this make a difference? or does it have to be backed with some black?

i've included a picture of a similar design. do you think i can do this with only spray cans? if not, i have access to an airbrush just in case...










by reading my procedures, does it look like im going (or painting :tongue: ) in the right direction? thanks for the help.

Danny


----------



## Guest

Hey, Im sure this is going to have something in it about what ur trying to do.

http://www.rctech.net/articles/painting_hauntedmyst.shtml

ED :freak:


----------



## Ralf

Got an olderer but good working compressor and an ancient airbrush from the father-in-law. Thinking of buying a newer airbrush. I am a newbie, should I start with a single action or dual action model. What do you recomend to start with? Thanks Ralf


----------



## Dan the Man

*Cobwebs?!?!*

Get this:

I just got out my airbrush and compressor that have been sitting in a shed for a few years. I taped up a body and fed in some Pactra black laquer, unthinned. I couldn't get the thing to settle down. It spattered. I should have known better, but I pressed ahead... Somehow, I really dunno how, the thing made cotton-candy cobwebs of black paint. It wasn't enough to screw up the paint job, but was really annoying... I thinned down the paint and now it's working fine.

Anyone else ever had this happen?


----------



## Dan the Man

What is "Fasescent"? It's not flourescent... is it? It's darker than the "Fasflourescent" paintss and has little particles swimming in it.


----------



## HauntedMyst

Dan the Man said:


> What is "Fasescent"? It's not flourescent... is it? It's darker than the "Fasflourescent" paintss and has little particles swimming in it.



It's their version of metallic.


----------



## Dan the Man

So what are the "intense color change" paints mentioned on your website? Did they just replace the original Faschange, or what?


----------



## patcollins

Was wondering if anyone on here had a Badger 360 Universal? I want to know if there is a larger color cup for the siphon feed mode.


----------



## JSBodies

dgraham225 said:


> wassup guys, i got a couple of questions. I'm about to paint my first body. i have always had them airbrushed up until now. im not a complete amature though, i've had alot of experience painting model cars, so that may help some.
> 
> im going to try and pull off a blue/chrome scheme for my XXX buggy. i was thinking about masking the front of the body with some flame masks, using some of the alclad transparent blue paint and applying it to the back half. then i was gonna peel the mask, use the alclad chrome to back the blue while also painting the once before masked area with the chrome. i've also heard something about backing chrome finishes with some silver. will this make a difference? or does it have to be backed with some black?
> 
> i've included a picture of a similar design. do you think i can do this with only spray cans? if not, i have access to an airbrush just in case...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by reading my procedures, does it look like im going (or painting :tongue: ) in the right direction? thanks for the help.
> 
> Danny




hmmmmmmmmmm..... that pic sure looks familiar? flattery is the best form of imitation I guess 

Alclad chrome is not available in spray cans, so you'l need to use an airbrush like I did..........


----------



## JSBodies

*dgrahm225-* 

the body was painted with alclad chrome and spazstix colorchange paints,the chrome was painted first & backed with black, then the spazstix was applied and backed with black.

the spazstix paint changes from purple to blue to green, with a hint of gold in it at times. looks sweet!

I still haven't sold it lol..........


----------



## dgraham225

haha, im glad you said something because i forgot which site i got that pic from, lol. it was purple in all of your pics, but i just photoshopped it to a blue. 

im not gonna use the spaztix paints, im just gonna use Alclad's colors. do you know if they have the transparent blue in a spray can? i know the chrome does comes in a spray can, but not sure on the blue. if not, do you know any brands that DO carry the blue in a can? i know Testors does, but im not sure if it will stick to the lexan very well. if not, i have access to an airbrush, just trying to get past it without one. 

so i should back the chrome with black right? i kinda figured that, but i have seen a couple of articles with the guys backing the Alclad chrome with silver with good results. 

thanks for the help! :wave:

EDIT: Alclad does have the Chrome in a spray can, its on their site.


----------



## JSBodies

I'm not too sure about the blue in a spray can, but I'm not keen on using chrome from a can either. the pactra/testors r/c racing finish will work with the alclad using an airbrush, but I'm not sure about how compatible spray can paint would be.....

had to rib ya about the pic lol.......... it really does chnge to the color of blue like you have in the pic


----------



## bigdon18

i have airbrushed the aclad chrome on and backed with pactra can black and had great results. 

Don


----------



## Mames

*need help*

hey i need some advice. i am painting my body in candy blue and flor. yellow. both appear to be transparent on the body. should i spray a white backing coat before changing from blue to yellow. i am trying to prevent any color changes around the paint lines. or am i just anal about this.

thank you 
matt :freak:


----------



## JSBodies

*Mames*- back the candy blue with indy silver to maintain a candy metallic look, then spray the yellow and back it with white.

( white backing will make candy blue look kinda like a sky blue )

*Don*- cool!!! been so long since I used cans for anything except a fuel proofing for water based paints!


----------



## Mames

jsbodies thank you for your help. hey is there an easy way to get paint off that ran past my masking ?

later
matt


----------



## BadSign

Quick alclad question. Will any other brands work to tint the chrome? I was wondering what a lacquer candy blue or red would look like with Alclad backing.

Uhh-Duh, never mind. Just read a couple posts above, thanks!


----------



## dgraham225

thanks for the help JS. i may just go ahead and buy the transparent blue and chrome in the bottle to airbrush it. 

when i get it done, ill post some pics up! :thumbsup:


----------



## T-Main

Here is my latest.....tried to get it bright


----------



## Guest

Thats awsome. How long did it take?

ED :freak:


----------



## Mames

hey thank you for all the help. on elast qustion. what can i use to remove over spray on the out side of my body. any house hold items? or do i need paint thinner?

later
matt


----------



## Dan the Man

I've never found anything that works well for laquers. I've tried thinner and rubbing alcohol and both fogged up the body's finish. For acrylics you can keep a wet rag handy and fix the mistake as soon as you make it.

Of course the best thing is to use bodies that come with overspray film, or mask the outside of the body.


----------



## Mames

thnaks you dan
. i was going to mask the out side of the body, but as you can tell i forgot/ rushed/go to excited about painting it. 
and yes it is lacquer paint. 
i had heard peolple mention a body wash but that does not sound right.

later
matt


----------



## T-Main

I took a little bit of time..


----------



## patcollins

Take lacquer thinner and mix it 50/50 with rubbing alcohol and it won't cloud the lexan nearly as much and will still remove the overspray. 

Another solution although more time consuming is to use turtle wax, it will take it right off.


----------



## Guest

How much does it cost to get a decent setup to do painting? Airbrush, paints, the whole lot of it.

ED :freak:


----------



## Dan the Man

Comp-Nerd said:


> How much does it cost to get a decent setup to do painting? Airbrush, paints, the whole lot of it.


You can get started for less than $50 but it won't be good equipment. You should spend $100 or so and get a double-action brush. Paasche makes kits that sell for ~$65-70. Badgers and Iwatas cost a bit more. I really can't recommend the Testors line for R/C as I suspect the metallic paints will give it fits, but the others should be fine. I have this set and I like it fine.

For an air source you can start with aerosol propellant, which is $5-10/can. The fitting for this generally isn't included with the double-action sets on the assumption that you're using something better for air, too. The fitting costs ~$10.

Paints go for ~$4/bottle.

Of course bodies go for $15 to $30 depending on brand and size.

Remember this, it's good advice: buy the best tools you can afford. You'll never regret it. This goes for R/C tools, mechanics tools, airbrushes, whatever.


----------



## Guest

The set that u have looks cool. I am just wondering how much this stuff will cost when and if I do decide to paint. Can u use these brushes for other projects, like painting a bird house or something? The air compressors cost about 100?

ED :freak:


----------



## Nil

Comp-Nerd said:


> Can u use these brushes for other projects, like painting a bird house or something?


For wood, you have to put on so much paint that you're ahead to use spray cans (or brushes), at least until the pores are sealed. Airbrushes just don't throw enough paint




> The air compressors cost about 100?


Right around that neighborhood. With an air compressor, a regulator and moisture trap are a good idea, too.


----------



## Guest

Ok im still a little fuzzy about how u actually go about painting. When you prep your body you put on windomasks and cover up all the lighter areas of your design. So then you paint, lets just say black the whole car. You peel off the covers on the light areas. You dont have to cover up the black when you go to paint the lighter color do you?

ED :freak:


----------



## Dan the Man

Nil said:


> Right around that neighborhood. With an air compressor, a regulator and moisture trap are a good idea, too.


Of course there are ways around this. Something I've always wanted to try is a bottle of CO2 from the local welding supply. Dry and no noise!

I've seen people use an old tire with 2 valve stems as well - one for a pump and one for the airbrush.

What I've got is a tool compressor - way more capacity than I need for airbrushing but I already had it.


----------



## Guest

Noise is not a big problem is it? It wouldnt be where I live.

ED :freak:


----------



## Dan the Man

The problem I have with noise is that the compressor always seems to kick in when I am in mid-spray and concentrating hard and it startles me out of my skin.


----------



## Guest

Earplugs?

ED :freak:


----------



## Nil

Dan the Man said:


> I've seen people use an old tire with 2 valve stems as well - one for a pump and one for the airbrush.


I'd only recommend this one for those with an extremely limited budget and a physical fitness "thing." Trying to hit 70 psi with a hand pump is a lot of work, and much less gives you too short a "run time." I tried this for about three box cars (into HO at the time) before I decided I _really could_ afford a compressor.
:lol:


----------



## Guest

*Spaz Diablo*


----------



## Guest

*Marbleized Flames*


----------



## Guest

Wow. Now how long did that take?

By the way how much horsepower is good for an air compressor?

ED :freak:


----------



## Nil

Comp-Nerd: Just for air brushing, not much. I believe that the one Badger makes for that purpose is 1/6 hp. 

charlie_b: Fantastic!


----------



## Fred B

The Iwata Revolution airbrushes are pretty inexpensive and have teflon seals that won't swell from the laquer paints. About $80 try www.coastairbrush.com

I think Parma sells a good compressor. I used one that they had at Cleveland and it was super quiet. Just run a fan on it to keep it cool.


Bolink body blast will take overspray off.


----------



## HauntedMyst

Dan the Man said:


> So what are the "intense color change" paints mentioned on your website? Did they just replace the original Faschange, or what?



Those are the FasFlip paints. They didn't replace the originals, they are just an addition to the line.


----------



## BadSign

*paint removal*

Late reply here, but try brake fluid to remove paint. It has no effect on the finish at all, just might require a little elbow grease at times.


----------



## Dan the Man

*Yuck!*

I just painted a XXX-NT body. It's the first one I've ever done that was just for the sake of something to paint, and not for one of my cars... The cut lines and window lines are awful - they look as though there was grit on the mold or something. The shape of the window masks wasn't even close. Looking at a XX4 body I have sitting here, I see the same problems. I've never seen anything this bad on a Pro-Line or Tamiya body. Maybe I've just started noticing since I've moved up from spray cans?

I may post a pic when I've got a chance (no digital camera). It's red and green with the Parma "Brute Creature" mask. I successfully gave the dragon scales - looks pretty cool.


----------



## Guest

*RCX Celica*


----------



## Guest

Wow now that is a work of art. Hey does that face have anything to do with terminator? Although it is awsome for some reason I really like T-Main's body. When and If i start airbrushing I will probably try to work up to something like that.

ED :freak:


----------



## JSBodies

Charlie_B- nice work as usual !!

what did you use for the glitter effect, did you just mix a bunch of fasglitter colors together or use holographic spazstix? 

I haven't got to play with either one very much even though the stuff is all over my shop......... I have very little time to paint anymore since opening up my shop...


----------



## Dan the Man

JSBodies said:


> what did you use for the glitter effect, did you just mix a bunch of fasglitter colors together or use holographic spazstix?


I am not Charlie_B, nor do I play him on tee vee, but I think the "glitter" is actually a starfield made with spatters of solid color. Still looks great.

These things seem to go in and out of style. Remember the cobweb paint?


----------



## Guest

thanx JS..i hear ya on time..i just painted 3 bodies and that is all i have done all year! Anyway, the glitter i was from House of Kolor. I then backed it with Createx Opaque Black.


----------



## JSBodies

Charlie_B- a cool and very sweet effect.......... 

where do you pick up your HOK materials? I need some of that glitter but my local shop closed up recently. and no one else here carries it. guess could check with coast airbrush ?


----------



## Guest

Yup..i get all my stuff from Coast..they are bout 5 min away from my house.


----------



## JSBodies

Dan- cobweb paint  ?...lol, you have been around a while ! I do remember it to though......... coverite had a good thing goin with that stuff !

Charlie- how convenient !


----------



## Klowne

gonna give it a go at painting.... as the hobby shop i work at we have an old paint booth spray we built that we are gonna clean up and get it set up to be used to paint some bodies. i have dealt with can painting and needless to say ..... i need practice..lol... i was curious as to what type of gun would be could to use as i would like to try out the fascolors and also the spas stix colors . and what size of compressor would i need? we are moving it from a garage and i had a shop compressor on it with a regulator. but i want something that would be suffecient enough to push both paints through the airbrush . any suggestions would be appreciated. 


also must say killer looking bodies you guys paint. hope i can get the patience to get just a 1/4 of that good and i will be happy .


----------



## Donnie_99

*fisheying*

i am having a lot of trouble with fisheying useing fastcolor it seems 
no matter how i clean the body or the gun it does it. any suggestions?


Donnie


----------



## HauntedMyst

Klowne,

Just about any gun will spray any paint. Personally, I like the Iwata's and if you are just getting into it, an Iwata Revolution at about $60 is a great airbrush. It's dual action, internal mix and will last you a very long time. As far as the compressor goes, a shop compressor is the best choice when money is a concern. They are more powerful and useful then a hobby compressor. The only thing you usually have to add to them are a moisture trap for about $25. 


Donnie, 

It sounds to me like one of two things (maybe both). First is that your pressure maybe too high. Try lowering it. The second is the paint may be too thin. Fascolors are very inconsistent out of the bottle, some are too thin, others are too thick. If it's too thin, take the top off the bottle for a day or too and let it dry up a bit. Stir it every hour or so to keep the top layer from drying.


----------



## Klowne

thanks for the help myst and suggestions. i got a moisture trap already just have to get the gun next and then i should be ready to go. also i plan on printing out your article on painting over at the rctech site. was very informative and i think it would do me good hindsite to keep it on hand for future references when im in doubt of something.

also i figured to start out practicing painting would it be ok to use empty and cleaned 2 liter bottles?


----------



## Dan the Man

Klowne said:


> thanks for the help myst and suggestions. i got a moisture trap already just have to get the gun next and then i should be ready to go. also i plan on printing out your article on painting over at the rctech site. was very informative and i think it would do me good hindsite to keep it on hand for future references when im in doubt of something.
> 
> also i figured to start out practicing painting would it be ok to use empty and cleaned 2 liter bottles?


2-liter bottles are a different kind of plastic. You should be able to get it to work, but don't expect the paint to stick if you start whacking it around!


----------



## Klowne

well i dont have any intentions of mounting the bottle on a vehicle..... just something to get the hang of the spraying techniques and practice on before ruining a 20 to 30 dollar body


----------



## Nil

Klowne said:


> well i dont have any intentions of mounting the bottle on a vehicle.....


Well, now I'm waiting for someone to post a picture of a bottle car . . . along with a gripe that it's not ROAR approved.

FWIW, the R/C airplane dudes used to use the bottom of two liter bottles to make engine cowlings.


----------



## dgraham225

quick question: im planning to paint a body with translucent blue and back it with chrome. Just wondering whether i should use the Alclad translucent blue or could i just use a regular blue paint and thin it down or spray thin coats? thanks.... :freak:


----------



## HauntedMyst

dgraham
I would use either the Alclad Transparent Blue or Pactra Acryl Transparent Blue. Most other blues, such as Parma or Pactra lacquers will be to dense to allow the chrome to shine through and you won't get the best of either world.


----------



## HauntedMyst

Just some new stuff


----------



## Anakist

Great work HM. Cool neighbourhood too!! Very american suburbia.

James


----------



## dgraham225

HauntedMyst said:


> dgraham
> I would use either the Alclad Transparent Blue or Pactra Acryl Transparent Blue. Most other blues, such as Parma or Pactra lacquers will be to dense to allow the chrome to shine through and you won't get the best of either world.


yea, i kinda figured that. but i wasnt aware that Pactra had a transparent blue, so that helps out alot. I'm ordering alot of stuff from RCboyz.com and they dont sell alclad, but do sell Pactra paints i think so thatll save me from having to order from two different places! thanks! :wave:


----------



## Donnie_99

what are most of you useing to clean your bodies with before painting? what do you clean your air brush with ?

Donnie


----------



## Dan the Man

Donnie_99 said:


> what are most of you useing to clean your bodies with before painting? what do you clean your air brush with ?


I clean the body with soap and water. I clean the airbrush with hot water. I've taken to tearing it down after every color, too... I have a VL, so I remove and clean out the cup, then take off the tip and run hot water through the color path. Then I check the needle. All this takes about a minute so I figure it's not a big deal.


----------



## Donnie_99

thanks for the info


----------



## Guest

*Eeyan's Reedy Ride*


----------



## Dan the Man

*Neat toy*

I just found a neat toy for pre-cutting masks... it's called a Fiskars ShapeCutter and can be found in the artsy-craftsy section of Wal-Mart. Basically it's a swivel knife but the way the handle is set up removes a lot of the human error. Lots better than an X-Acto. Looks like this:


----------



## RoadBuggy

*xxx main lexan picture glue*

I would like to take the "shortcut" to finishing laxan bodies. Has anyone tried laxan picture glue? does it work on pictures printed from a PC printer? I have an epson stylus and would rather make my own logos with photoshop and print them on photo paper. :freak: 

what do you use for shadow effects e.g. on checkered flags, window tint paint? acrylic smoke?  

thanks. :thumbsup:


----------



## Guest

*Barry's Reedy ride*


----------



## Klowne

sweet looking body charlie_b

im almost embarassed now to even post my first paint job .....
but im gonna go ahead and put it up lol




messed up and had to edit......lol go figure......lol


----------



## BadSign

*question for Charlie B*

Absolutely stunning, Charlie.

And the car the girl is holding looks good, too! :lol: 

How did you create the speckled texture in the background?


----------



## Guest

Klowne..that paintjob look awesome!

Badsign...it is just a marble technique. spray a heavy coat of silver and while wet, crumple into a ball a sheet of saran wrap. Pounce the silver until you get the disired look. back it with black.

VOILA!


----------



## Klowne

thanks charlie.....

i had one problem which im not sure why though....

i was getting small splatters out of my colors... not sure if i used not enough thinner or too much....
i used pactra paint daytona yellow and competition orange.
and when i went to do the backing i used the sprint white and it also had small splatters on it but also had a mist spray to it as well. 

not sure if it was too much thinner or not enough. i was able to still cover the body with the paint and not have the splatters show up. just when i look under the body i can see how it did it is all.

any suggestion on how to stop it from splattering so badly? besides a different airbrush ....... uses the walmart testors one for 30bucks lol


----------



## T-Main

What pressure are you spraying at? You could turn up your air compressor. Usually it happens when not enough pressure or you might be getting a dried up paint build up on your tip....


----------



## Fred B

Try painting some more to see what happens when the paint spatters. It it's spattering right from the start, try thinning out the paint more. Normally, paint that isn't thinned enough will also have cobwebs form.

Testors Yellows are the worst...It's like painting with watered down chaulk.

If you can paint for a bit and then the paint starts to spatter, it's just paint drying on the tip. If you use the Pactra/Testors paints, there really isn't good cure for paint drying on the tip. You can try adding thinner but that's kindof a cave man way of doing it. If the tip is drying out, use less pressure.

Oh, for the Parma guys, try some of the Createx retarder to keep the paint from drying on the tip. It's alot easier to do fades and no more psssssstpthftph splat on your work. You have to add the retarder when you use the paint...just a couple of drops in the paint cup on your airbrush.


----------



## Dan the Man

"Createx retarder"... where can I get it? I'd like to give it a try. The low humidity here in West Nowhere has been giving me fits.


----------



## Klowne

thanks for the tips fellas....... 

im actually painting at 20-25 psi......constant.... as i have a contractors air compressor to paint with just using what the kit suggested as my go with point of spraying . and it doesnt have any cobwebs with the little spots that come out . when i get the chance to do another body i will see what i can do . i am thinkin of gettin the createx paints to try out next as i would rather clean with water than with thinner...lol. thanks again for the help guys


----------



## Fred B

I think you can get the retarder from either coast airbrush or bearair...Both places are great to deal with.

The Parma paint works better than the normal createx paints. The createx autoair works great but it's a little pricy in small quantities.


----------



## RAFster

*FasGlitter advice*

I understand FasGlitter by Parma is a real mess and you need
to mask everything that will not get a glitter coat first as well
as use a very high pressure. I have an old Testors dual/single
action airbrush with most of the tips and plan on using the 1.02mm
Yellow tip and start with 60psi and work up.
I think I read or heard of someone using a Badger 250 without the needle to spray FasGlitter. 
I intend on spraying one moderate coat of the glitter on the body and
then backing with some FasKolor.

Any and all advice for this use would be appreciated. 

Thanks!


----------



## Nil

RAFster: Can't agree about FasGlitter being a mess. Yes, you have to plan your masking so it's a bit tricky if you want two colors backing the FasGlitter; you'd have to spray two separate FasGlitter coats:

FasGlitter
First color (remove masking)
FasGlitter
Second color.

I use a Paashe type H, single action, external mix. Because of my pressure switch (Sears water pump switch), I'm pretty limited in pressure: 25-30 psi is about as high as I can go. So very high pressure is not necessary.


----------



## Ralf

Where is a good on line site to but paint and supplies? Just got a new air brush! Thanks Ralf


----------



## ChrisHarris

*Chrome paint?*

I hope this hasn't been addressed already- and I apoligize if it has, jsut don't have the time to read all six thousand pages of this thread.  

I saw a body at the track a while back where the whole front end was chrome. There is a guy asking after that stuff on the Traxxas page and I am trying to find out who makes the stuff. Thanks in advance!


----------



## dgraham225

both Spaztix and Alclad II make a chrome for Lexan. i have never used the spaztix, but i have used the Alclad and it goes on like any other lacquer with awesome results.


----------



## RAFster

ChrisHarris said:


> I hope this hasn't been addressed already- and I apoligize if it has, jsut don't have the time to read all six thousand pages of this thread.
> 
> I saw a body at the track a while back where the whole front end was chrome. There is a guy asking after that stuff on the Traxxas page and I am trying to find out who makes the stuff. Thanks in advance!


There are only 16 pages as I see it...

The chrome effect can be had using Alclad II Chrome Lacquers A107 or A407 (4 ounce) or Spaxstix's chrome #CR5000.


----------



## ChrisHarris

*Thanks guys!*

I am prone to hyperbole on many occasions. Well, OK, maybe most. No, ALL THE TIME!!


----------



## Ralf

Is there any way to remove Parma Fascolor paint from a lexan body so it can be re-painted. Thanks Ralf


----------



## Donnie_99

i have sprayed it with warm water or a water hose and washed it off before but it was fresh painted.


----------



## Fred B

Usually, if the Parma paint dries completely, it etches into the lexan and leaves a haze (with a tint of color) if you clean it off.

If it's really fresh, you can usually wash it off and be ok.


----------



## HauntedMyst

New Paint


----------



## RAFster

*HauntedMist's latest and chrome questions*

As usual, you are up to your excellent paint work. 
Very nice Alfa! 
Is that FasKolor or Pactra or SpazStix, etc?
Alclad II or SpazStix on the chrome?

Some fellow racers complain the chrome isn't very durable 
racing if they hit the occassional pipe/board racing. 
Some racers never hit a board and they don't have the problem... 
:jest: 

Anyone have any suggestions for improving durability?

Thanks!


----------



## HauntedMyst

Thank you! That is all Faskolor except for the silver, which is Pacta Indy Silver. 

As for chrome, its very sensitive to sloppy work, including not washing the body completely. Also, lots of people spray chrome on way to heavy and then it doesn't stick when. When you spray it, "dry" spray it, so you are far enough away from the body (about 12 to 15 inches) so that it's nearly dry by the time it hits hit.


----------



## Nil

HM: You paint before trimming and drilling post holes? Don't you find lining up the wheel wells & body holes difficult that way?


----------



## HauntedMyst

That body is for a friend and it has the post holes marked on it.


----------



## Klowne

fricken sweet paint job myst...... looks like a killer job 

where do you get your inspiration for the paint jobs?


----------



## bigmooseracer

With regard to the holographic paint.....

Can you see any holographic effect under lights? I mostly race under lights in a parking lot and was considering trying a holgraphic flame job. 

Thanks


----------



## HauntedMyst

Thanks Klowne! Inspiration comes really from anywhere. For this one, I wanted to try to so something with big sweeping lines since I'm not very good at them. 


Moose,

The holographic paint really works best under bright direct sun light. I don't think you'd be happy with it under any other kind of light.


----------



## RAFster

Moose, 

The SpazStiks Xtreme Glow and Ultra Violent paint would work well if you wanted to invest in one of the UV light kits for you car. Sounds like you race at night.
You can get some wild effects from SpazStik's line with glow enhancers.


----------



## low10s

*airbrush tips*

i am going to start airbrushing my own bodies. for a beginner what would be a good dual action airbrush to start with. thanks


----------



## rayhuang

Of the 3 or so popular airbrushes I have tried (Paasche VL, Badger 155, 150, Faskolor F1) I have found for Faskolor paints, the F1 is the best.

Best= easiest to clean, sprays thick water based paint evenly, sprays thin lines to large areas with a flip of the tip and its dual action. It comes with bottle adapters so you can just screw a FAskolor bottle to it.

Check it out-I cannot see how you could be dissapointed with it.


----------



## Ralf

What kind of air pressure are you using for the Fascolor paints, and do you thin them down? A newbie with no idea! The local hs that sold me the paints said to use them straight out of the bottle at 60 psi. Thanks Ralf


----------



## rayhuang

Ralf,

With the F1 brush, I spray Faskolor anywhere from 20 to 60 psi without any problems. I usually spray at 60 psi for whites and neons in wide spray patterns for base coloring. For fades and up close shadowing I usually spray lower at 30 psi or so. Depends on what I am doing. I hope that helps some,
Ray


----------



## low10s

thanks ray i am going to check it out. later :thumbsup:


----------



## HauntedMyst

low10s said:


> i am going to start airbrushing my own bodies. for a beginner what would be a good dual action airbrush to start with. thanks



In addition to the F1, I'd highly recommend you look at an Iwata Revolution airbrush. It's cheaper (about $50 to $60) then the Faskolor F1 and better made. The F1 is a rebadged Badger. The Iwata super easy to clean and sprays very nicely. Nearly every pro r/c painter I know uses Iwata.


----------



## Fred B

A top feed brush like the Revolution is easier to clean because you can just clean out the cup and run some thinner (or water) thru.

I borrowed a Parma brush and compressor from the Parma guys at Cleveland last year and it worked great. The F1 seems to work better than my Iwata with the Fascolor paints. I can shoot Fascolor thru both brushes down to about 25 PSI with good results.

Ray, Tell the Parma guys to look into getting some retarder for their paint (it would be a great product to sell). It helps keep the tip from clogging when you're doing detail work. No more gobs of paint on your work.


----------



## RAFster

Createx retarder works on the Fascolor paints. 

3 drops per ounce...or less.


----------



## Guest

*All Iwata Revolution.*


----------



## Guest

*More the same night..*


----------



## SuperXRAY

Nice paint!


----------



## RAFster

Charlie B has some top drawer examples again...The Revolution must be one nice airbrush...
Having the skills of Charlie B using it doesn't hurt it one bit either. 
 

Very nice examples... The white flames with a red car isn't something often seen but it works nicely. That kaleidoscope of colors makes it kick. The orange checkerboard floating away is a cool effect...I really like that.
The Silva 3 (2002 Monte Carlo) with the haunted face in the purple on the side along with the depth of colors is incredible. 

Profiling it against a Volvo 240 wagon that is vintage 1975-1979 isn't very commonly seen. I wonder how many miles on the grey old beast?
We have three Volvos: a '66 122S (red 2 door 335K km), a '83 245DL (dk. green wagon 279K miles), and '91 244DL (white four door sedan 236K miles). I retired an '82 244DL (bright red 275K miles retired at 21 yrs of age [9/81 build date] due to rust, wiring and fuel distributor problems.)


----------



## low10s

is fastkolor paint ready to spray straight from the bottle? i have an older Paasche dual action, any tips on air presure, trimmming, outlining, etc. thanks fellas


----------



## RAFster

low10s said:


> is fastkolor paint ready to spray straight from the bottle? i have an older Paasche dual action, any tips on air presure, trimmming, outlining, etc. thanks fellas


Yes, it usually can be sprayed directly, but you have to use a lot of air pressure to spray fastkolor paint. 50 to 100 psi on some airbrushes. Definitely not air cans for supply and some airbrush compressors won't supply those kinds of pressures steadily. 

Sounds like your airbrush might be a VL model. I looked at that one when I bought my Testor's Aztec about 6 years ago. I went with the Testors because of the easy cleanup. 
With my Testors I've had to use 60psi on a few of the colors. I started playing with the FasGlitter and it is some wierd stuff to work with...I've just started using the Parma FastKolor paints in the past month. I've used Pactra Acrylics and before that their polycarbonate line...

I like the Acrylics low odor and easy cleanup. 

The Iwata Revolution sounds like a very nice airbrush and CharlieB sure knows how to use one as you can see a few postings back...

David


----------



## low10s

thanks for the info, i guess trial and error is the way to go. one more thing, to do a fine point do you use more or less air pressure, like to draw flames.


----------



## bigmooseracer

*SpazStix Paint*

Hi Gang, :wave: 

Just got in an order of Spaz-Stiz paint and tried it for the first time.

My plan was to use the color change paint with radio active paint as highlights. I usually race about an hour in the sun and then a couple after the sun goes down. Think it will make a nice effect.

The color change Red/Orange/Purple went on with out a hitch. Looked best for me at around 7 light coats and with black multi-backer. Beautiful color shift and nice coverage. I screwed up on a corner with too heavy of a coat, but the black backer made it look good again.

I do however have a problem with the Radio Active Orange/Red. First, it looks like peach in the bottle. Second, I kept adding coat after coat trying to get it dark enough. After about 10 coats progressively heavier, I gave up and put the glow enhancer coat on. In light the color looks like a pale orange creamsicle and in the dark it has a very slight glow and even a lighter color. 

Where did I go wrong here? I gave the bottle a good shaking and went through a whole detail cup of paint on a 3/4 x 2 test strip. How can I make this paint red/orange instead of pale orange?

Did I see someone mention that there are airbrush adaptors available for these bottles? The paint came mostly in smaller neck plastic bottles, but the radioactive is in a glass large mouth bottle with a paint brush attached to the cap. 

Thanks!


----------



## low10s

need an new air brush any suggestions. dual action for around $50-$60. and should i get gravity or siphon. thanks


----------



## HauntedMyst

Get an Iwata Revolution from Dixie Art for $59.00. Order the right hose when you order the brush. Gravity or siphon is a personal choice. I like the gravity for spraying faskolors, the siphon for spraying lacquers for no other reason that the gravity is easier to clean with faskolors and the siphon is easiest to clean with lacquers.


----------



## low10s

thanks Haunted myst, i like that airbrush and i think i will go with gravity feed for now. later :thumbsup:


----------



## low10s

can tips and needles of different brands interchange. say a badger to a paasche. thanks


----------



## Fred B

Bigmooseracer,

I've tried the glow in the dark paints with varrying degrees of success. I'll bet that the glow in the dark paint that you're using isn't opaque so when you put the glow enhancer on it shows thru the red washing it out to a cruddy orange or pink. Try backing it with a dark color (Try red, blue, and black) If the paint acts like a candy color, the backing coats will make different effects. Try it out on a scrap and see what it does.

Red should keep it somewhat red, Blue will turn purple (red at night), and black will make it dissapear (until night)

You really have to hoze it down on the body for it to really work well because the RC stuff isn't as bright as the automotive stuff.


----------



## low10s

*which colors first*

i am new to this so bear with me. i know you put your darkest colors down first. but i have three that i am not sure of. i have yellow, silver pearl, and green turqoius( i think that is how you spell it) which would i put down first. thanks :wave:


----------



## RAFster

low10s said:


> i am new to this so bear with me. i know you put your darkest colors down first. but i have three that i am not sure of. i have yellow, silver pearl, and green turqoius( i think that is how you spell it) which would i put down first. thanks :wave:


Were I spraying it I would spray green turquoise first. Then depending on how opaque the green I would either back it with silver or white and depending on what tint you want it to take. You have to see the body in sunlight to get a good idea of the color change between the two backing coats. A fluorescent or incadescent bulb won't give you the full spectrum of sunlight. If you race inside under Fluorescent or High Pressure Sodiums then the paint job will look different than outside. 

Then I would spray the yellow and then go to the silver pearl. I like backing a very light bright yellow with silver pearl better than white..more sparkle. Lots of folks put too much paint on the body
when they are starting out painting. Sometimes I'm still guilty 
of it several years later.

One of the racers in our club has been using Pactra's Transparent colors of Trans. Blue, Trans. Red, Trans. Yellow, etc and then backing it with Alclad II chrome for some pretty spectacular colors. 

Another one of the guys in our club who is talented with an airbrush, Blake (2braindesigns), has been playing with using Alclad on a body after scotchbriting in a single direction. Masking the body and then scotchbriting that panel for a brushed aluminum effect. I guess it would come in handy for a Tmaxx body or used in some areas for other effects. With the proper amount of patience and time you could cause the body to have the effect of different panels of orientation of brushed aluminum.


----------



## low10s

thanks Rafster that is what i was thinking. i dont have white right now so i am going to back it with silver. thanks again


----------



## Guest

*My Car*


----------



## low10s

i like that, the use of colors and the way they flow together, sweeeettt. good job, did you do it. :thumbsup:


----------



## JSBodies

Long time , no see everyone! Nice work Charlie!!!! been too busy sling'n paint and runnin my shop for much else,but here's one I just finished up for a new mag due out soon..........


----------



## Guest

Same to you Josh! Can't wait to see the new mag!


----------



## JSBodies

lol Charlie.... I think you got me mixed up with Josh Thiel, his work rocks!!! Thanks though!!!!


----------



## low10s

*backing colors*

i have yellow and neon red i need to put some backing on. are there any other colors besides silver and white to back with. thanks


----------



## JSBodies

low10s........ not really. white is the best color to back both the yellow and neon red to retain their brilliance and proper color ( incuding water based paints). I wouldn't back either color with anything but white......... 

silver is mostly used to back laquer ( pactra/ spazstix) candies and metallics with, and also as a final undercoat to finish up a painted body.


----------



## low10s

thanks i will go and get some white. :thumbsup:


----------



## JSBodies

dropping in to see how everything has been.. looks quiet.

I have been extremely busy with painting, my shop and school as of late.....

But, my hard work is finally starting to pay off !!!

After years of airbrushing bodies in obscurity to the R/C industry as a whole, you'll finally be able to see some of my work in upcoming issues of the new magazine " R/C Driver "........ 

Thanks to Dave Schultz and Dave Baker for helping out so much !


----------



## BadSign

Hello all,

I've been looking for a way to host some of my paint jobs and finally found one. Let me know what you think!

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=12134

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=12135

P.S. Is there any way to aach a thumbnail link?


----------



## JSBodies

Badsign- 

very unique designs, and I like color choices. It's so hard to be original any more, but your headed in the right direction!


----------



## PD2

I agree! Very nice job! I like the hood effects of the break-through pattern. Very nice touch!

PD2 :thumbsup:


----------



## RAFster

While shooting some Pactra Pearl Green and Metallic Yellow my Aztek decided it had enough and stopped functioning. I had to return it to Testors for them to take a look at it. 
I picked up a Paasche H external mix and boy has the Testor's airbrush ease of cleanup and color changes spoiled me. 
Let's see if I can add a photo here in a few...not a real good photo of the handiwork...a little too overexposed. Should have shot it darker and a lot closer.


----------



## TeamGoodwrench

*Proper Setup for Pactra Lexan Laquer ??*

I got a cheapie single action, external mix Paasche airbrush that I want to use to paint R/C lexan bodies. I have a compressor as well.

What is the correct pressure for the Pactra Lexan Laquer paints ? Do you spray them straight from the bottle or thin them ? If so, how much ??

Thx!


----------



## JSBodies

Goodwrench......... when thinned properly, pactra laquers will spray very well from 20-30 psi. Thin the with Pactra r/c thinner or acrylic laquer thinner only. The ratio for most colors except candies is 50/50 and candies can be thinned as needed for various results. if the paint cobwebs at 30 psi , it's not thin enough.


Rafster. not bad! for an external mix brush. I always hate those thing lol......


----------



## TeamGoodwrench

OK thanks JS!

I was shooting it waaaaaaaaay too thick then !

It worked at around 40 psi, but it did have a "sandpaper" finish


----------



## RAFster

JSBodies,

You wrote: "Thin with Pactra r/c thinner or acrylic laquer thinner only." 

Are you talking the Acryllic thinner for Acrylic paints and Pactra lacquer thinner for the lacquer based polycarbonate paints? 
Is there such a thing as acrylic lacquer thinner?

Generic store brand lacquer thinner doesn't work well for Pactra PolyCarbonate paints? 
I typically would shoot it unthinned at higher pressures...in error...

Thanks!


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## MARSscrutinizer

You can get laquer thinner by the gallon from your local automotive paint store. It's cheaper by the gallon. The acrylic thinner is synthetic if I remember. Tell the paint guys what you're using it for and they should be able to get you the right stuff.


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## JSBodies

TeamGoodwrench-

LOL.........  yep, it's just like that when to thick


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## JSBodies

Rafster-

Mars is correct, it's automotive laquer thinner for the pactra laquer paint.I use a medium set reducer from Martin Seymour, and although it's purchased by the gallons, it's cheaper than buying the metal pint cans from Pactra. although if you only paint occassionally , a pint will last a while......... always use a respirator when sprayng this stuff, the keytones in the thinner and paint are extremely harmful to the nervous system, trust me!


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## RAFster

JSBodies and Mars,

Thanks for the advice. I have bunch of the Pactra R/C Paint left (some unopened) and have pretty much switched to the Acrylics... 
I prefer the easy cleanup and the lack of neurotoxins in the acrylics.
At one point I thought they were totally discontinuing the Pactra R/C Paint that is ketone based due to EPA standards for VOC and other regulations.
I used a respirator most of the time when I would shoot that paint
or I would do the painting outside where there was plenty of fresh air. 

Need some paint?  

For Pactra's acrylic what do you use for a reducer...I've had some problems with excessive drying while shooting some of the Pearls or Metallics with the Testor's Aztek using acrylic specific tips. I tend to notice less trouble shooting in gravity feed rather than siphon in dual action mode. 

The Pasche H airbrush is more difficult to work with for color changes or I don't know how to do it the easy way...

You certainly do some nice paint work JS...you and CharlieB and others here turn out some excellent bodies. 

I did a couple Ferrari 360 Modenas (RAD Racing Aero Dynamics bodies) for a recent Ferrari Challenge (18th scale) race that were pretty cool, replicas of some of the race cars in the Ferrari Challenge with a bit of liberty and artistic license. I don't know if I got some good pictures (35mm) of the cars prior to racing. Since my 12 year old son and I were bashing them up pretty good they aren't as pretty now...

Thanks again for the advice!


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## TeamGoodwrench

Yeah... but ya gotta love the smell of that Pactra laquer


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## JSBodies

Team Goodwrench- LOL!!!!!!


RAFster- I swapped to the Parma paint, and use it because it and the createx paints are basically the same thing. I had been using createx auto air for a while on various things like riding mowers and such, and it didn't take long to figure out that it was great for r/c bodies once I started using the faskolor paint. I began looking at the colors real close and HEY ! what do ya know! they are they same!  it's also more bang for the buck than the pacra paint.

I had heard that some of the guys where using alcohol to thin the pactra acrylic and createx, but have been using plainold water to thin my water based paints for years.

I also use an Iwata Eclipse to shoot Water based paints...... (and
for all of my work now) one tip for everything, it sprays a line to 2" wide strokes and clean up is a breeze.

also, I use a crown cap, and it makes tip cleaning even easier, and is great for fine line work.

I spray the createx/faskolor at 35-45 psi........


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## josh short

JSBodies---- I am new to this air brushing stuff and I have been using faskolor and it seems to clog the brush I think its to thick how much do you thin yours thanks


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## JSBodies

Josh- I hardly thin it all unless I just have too. I have gotten used to spraying the pearls and irridescents at 45-50 psi, but will thin them only with a 1/2 teaspoon or so to spray well at a lower psi if it's needed.

What kind of brush are you using? the faskolor will tend to clog up the Testors/Aztek brushes, and the smaller tips on Paasche brushes too. It's basically like "tip dry" sometimes.


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## Dan the Man

JSBodies said:


> What kind of brush are you using? the faskolor will tend to clog up the Testors/Aztek brushes, and the smaller tips on Paasche brushes too. It's basically like "tip dry" sometimes.


No kidding. Iwata here I come...


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## JSBodies

Dan- Lol!!!! :d


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## T-Main

JSBodies said:


> What kind of brush are you using? the faskolor will tend to clog up the Testors/Aztek brushes, and the smaller tips on Paasche brushes too. It's basically like "tip dry" sometimes.


I am using the Badger Anthem and get the tip dry thing going all the time. I have learned to deal with it but it just a pain in the @$$ to have to stop to clean it. I have still had gerat painting results but would like it to stop. I spray all water base and am doing so at about 45 psi.


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## josh short

I got the Paasche VL maybe I need to change needles or tips


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## bigdon18

hi, i was woundering if anyone has tried the acrylic waterbase paints in the craft dept in walmart. like to know if they will work on the rc lexan bodies. they just say for all solid surfaces on the bottles. the bottles look just like the one the parma faskolors come in. 

BIGDON


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## JSBodies

T- main... yep, it's always gonna be something to clean up with water based paints, even with Iwata's too although not as bad.

Bigdon18.... nope, haven't tried it myself. I know that the createx/faskolor paints are flexilbe when dry. 

Try out a bottle on some scrap lexan to see how it adheres and flexes when dry.

Purchase white, because if your happy with the results, you'll be using a lot of it......


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## bigdon18

JSBODIES,
i try that this weekend, it be nice to run and buy some paint when you need some instead of ordering it,, the nearest hobby shop to me is a hour and a half away. 

also where can i order the createx paints at? or can i might buy them locally also. thanks for any help in advance. 

BIGDON


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## MARSscrutinizer

Createx is available locally from craft stores or online at coast air or bear air.


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## RAFster

Will the Createx in the craft stores such as Michael's craft stores or Dick Blick's art stores carry a Createx paint. These aren't the Auto Air line of paints... Are they the same and are they compatible with the Lexan bodies? My understanding was the Auto Air had better bonding agents than the textile paints the craft and art stores carry. 

Some of our hobby shops carry the Parma Faskolor paints. 

Another online source is http://www.dixieart.com as JSBodies mentioned...


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## Fred B

The autoair will stick to lexan better but I've used both. You have to get a significant amount to make ordering autoair worth it.

When I was using the water based stuff, I used the Parma paint for my main colors and the normal Createx for accents. If the body's not clean, it won't even think about sticking. I also tried using a bonding agent and it helped.


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## erock1331

Hey guys, thinking of getting an airbrush, for RC only. Which would you recommend. I heard the dual action may be more trouble than what it's worth. ??

Sorry if this has been aksed before I havent had the time to look at all the pages.


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## Fred B

I would get a Pashe or Iwata dual action airbrush. I personally prefer the Iwata Revolution for RC painting ($75-$80).

As far as dual action being more trouble. In a word, nope. There is more control with a dual action and it's very easy to master. Basically, With a single action, you push the button and get both air and paint with very little control of how much. With a dual action, you push for air and pull back to get paint. The more you pull back the more paint you get.

In either case, practice a little on a piece of glass or scrap Lexan.


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## Dan the Man

*Iwata models?*

Okay, so Iwata makes the Revolution series, in bottom and gravity feed versions. The cup looks friggin' huge, but I guess it's really no bigger than the one on my VL.

The Eclipse has a better selection of cups and feeds. It costs about $15-25 more.

Why? What, if anything, is the difference?


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## JSBodies

Dan- 

the revolution brushes basically fill the gap between the cheap entry level airbrushes and the higher quality brushes such as the eclipse. While they function almost as well as the eclipse brushes, they were primarily designed for the model/hobby industry and come with a solvent proof seal to resist the deteriorating effects of enamel and laquers that are available to model builders, and still spray water based paints well while being a great and affordable first airbrush to the model/hobby enthusiast with quality that is second to none. ( lol  I sound like a sales pitch )

The brush is designed differently internally, and has a few more parts than the Eclipse series. Iwata has a brief description of each on their site, and you can check them out and compare designs. Dixieart.com also has a diagramatic break down of the brushes too.


http://www.arttalk.com/iwata/hp-cr.htm


http://www.arttalk.com/iwata/new/neweclipseairbrushes.htm#HPBCS


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## Dan the Man

Yeah, I went all through those webpages today and found an appalling lack of info among the expected fluff. Why can one airbrush cost $70 and another can cost $270? I know it's mainly the manufacturing tolerances, but still, from a salesmanship perspective, it's a crappy site. You'd think they'd go for a hard sell rather than just "Great for the beginner!" or "Great for the professional!"

There's nothing that says what's included with the brush, either. Do I need to buy hose at least? There are several box sets too, but with a similar dearth of information.

Nevertheless, I believe I'm headed for an Eclipse CS or SBS.


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## JSBodies

Dan- purchase you eclipse from Dixie art, Bear air or Coast airbrush. They offer the eclipse complete with a 6 or 10' hose and all are about the same price.

Trust me, there is a big difference between the $70 entry level and $270 fine art airbrush.


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## Gubawatts

*Gravity vs Siphon Feed*

I am considering getting an Iwata Revolution, but was wondering what the pros/cons are of a siphon feed vs gravity feed brush. My primary use would be painting RC bodies.

Thanks


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## JSBodies

Gubawatts-

A gravity feed brush will allow you to get closer in to the lexan body, and will allow you to create finer lines and details if needed. the downside to it is you will have to refill a little more frequently for large coverage areas or backing colors.

A siphon feed brush will not let you get as close to your work, but you will be able to use quick change caps directly on your paint bottles. Keep one bottle full of cleaner, and you'll be able to swap between colors almost as quick as a gravity feed brush. The upside is that you will not run out of the color you are working with unlees your bottle is out of paint.

I use the createx bottle tops with redi caps for my faskolor and auto air colors, it makes color changes quick and easy. since I paint a lot of bodies, it has been most effecient for me to use a siphon feed.

If you plan on painting occasionally, I suppose a gravity feed might be better for you, and easier to flush clean before storing.


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## Fred B

The biggest difference for me is that gravity feed brushes waste less product. You can put a few drops of paint in a gravity feed for accents but a siphon feed wastes the paint in the tube each time you change.

Siphon feeds are great for changing colors quickly (that's why the shirt painters use them)

The quality is the same between gravity and siphon feeds of the same model.

The difference between a $70 dollar airbrush and a $300 airbrush is huge. I've used the microns and they're way different. You use less paint, the spray pattern is more fine, and you can paint hair lines. They're also much more delicate.

As for the site, it sucks. If you're in the market for a high end airbrush you are in the custom or illustration industry and you know what you want.


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## JSBodies

I have to agree with Fred!



If you have a bottle and cap for every color, the paint in the bottle tube is not wasted and you'll be flushing the same amount of color from your brush..... but if your just changing from color to color using only one bottle top for every color, it's a BIG waste!

I paint bodies like T-shirt artist's, and the quick change bottle tops are a must for me, and allow me to move quickly from color to color.

I hope to pick up a spectra wand and micron B soon, that way I can just go from color to color without any bottle changes!


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## Fred B

Yeah, unless you're painting a lot of bodies at once, gravity feed is the way to go. If you paint a lot at once, then siphon feeds are faster and time is money.

I saw that spectra thing last year, looks like it's pretty cool. Wonder how much fun it is to clean if any paint dries in it. The micron's are a little bit overkill for what most of us do anyway.


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## Gubawatts

Thanks JS and Fred B.

I appreciate the experts' opinions on this. I only expect to paint a few bodies of my own, and a couple for friends a year.. and maybe a few other occasional odd uses, so it sounds like the gravity feed would work well for me.

:thumbsup:


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## JSBodies

Fred- Oh yeah, the micron is over the top! but I also airbrush other stuff too, and it's just been a "gotta have" since I watched Craig Frasier use it at one of his siminars.


I'm kinda concerned about paint drying in that spectra wand too, but I'm hoping it won't be a problem if I use it on a daily basis.. I'm going to just bite the bullet and get one I think? 

I'll let everyone know how it goes if I do..............


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## bigdon18

Jsbodies ,
i tried the acrylic and the acrylic enamel,, the acrylic did good but the other didnt do to good ,,,but i had to try it,,it was a glowin the dark, 

i sprayed several light coats and back with white ,, but it still didnt look good in light and didnt stand out in the dark really. 

but the purple of acrylic did good for me so far. 
thanks for your help and others.

BIGDON


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## JSBodies

Bigdon- keep us posted! who made the glow in the dark paint?


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## JSBodies

*Finished T-4*

Here's a few pics of my finished T-4. The dark color is actually faschange scarebeus but it doesn't show too well.


T-4 

T-4 

T-4


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## bigdon18

great looking paint job,

BIGDON


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## Fred B

Just reading back...

Jsbodies, what seminar did you go to? I was at Vegas last year.

FB


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## RCMits

*airbrush question....*

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=66390

I didnt know where to post it.. so I put it in the model forum. Maybe someone with Airbrush experience can take a look please?

Thanks!


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## JSBodies

Fred B... He had a one day seminar here in april.

RcMits...... try this very helpful PDF file from paasche

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/parts_2003/VVJRVLVLSAirbrushes.pdf


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## RAFster

Nobody is painting bodies since October...??? Or, is everyone too busy?

I have a question about Fasglitter... Can I spray it effectively using a Paasche H airbrush with the large needle and standard tip? 
Thanks for sharing any experience and tips you might have!

I finally got my Testor's Aztek replacement airbrush body in late November. I had one of the early black bodied dual or single action airbrushes and the body started leaking at the control lever. I've not tried the replacement 470 airbrush body they sent me... Looks the same as far as controls but is more comfortable in the hand.

Thanks!


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## TimWeber1

*Fasglitter with paasche airbrush*

I've shot lots of Fasglitter with my Paasche airbrush, and here's what I do- I remove the needle completely, and just blast away at 80 psi without it. I found that even with the largest needle, it clogs almost immediately. Keep in mind that a little goes a long way, and if you lay it on too thick, it tends to muddy up your backing colors. I usually start by masking out my details first, then hilight around the details using a transparent color (createx), then remove my needle and hit it with the fasglitter. Then I spray on my backing colors before I remove my masking and do the details. The glitter shows up well under the transparent colors. I tend to use either the silver or pearl glitter, pearl under cool colors and silver under warm colors. Just remember to wear your nuisance mask, or you'll be smelling the stuff and blowing it out of your nose for a week. Always shake the bottle thoroughly and shoot it right away. (I almost always use my detail cup, it has less time to settle) I've had great luck using the glitter this way, and found that it tends to blow the judges away during concours competitions.


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## kc-fan

Wanting to paint a body bright orange, with darker blue accent color ( paint mask) What would I back up the lighter color with, so my blue does not bleed through, or is this possible. I need the main part of the body light, because of inside track with so so lighting. Thanks for any advice.

DS


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## JSBodies

KC-fan........

What type of paint are you using? If laquer based paint ( pactra ) try backing the light orange with white as ususal and then a couple coats of indy silver to back the white and prevent bleed through of the blue. Then spray the blue in light coats allowing plenty of time between them to dry. Back the blue with silver also if needed. 

If your using spray cans, be very patient.... you can mess up real quick if the coats are sprayed too heavy and each one is not dry before the next is applied.

If your using the Parma Faskolor paints in an airbrush, it won't be a problem if you want to spray the blue last. When dry completely, they will not bleed throuh each other but just make sure to back the orange with white anyway.


hope this helps.........


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## JSBodies

wow.. haven't been here since January? well, looks like you'll be seeing more of me here... I'm going back to painting full time again !


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## hankster

Good to see you back and painting full time again!


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## JSBodies

Hey Hank! The hobbyshop thing has played out for me- closing my store and track. hopefully someone else will step in that can do bigger and better things..

going back to what I do best lol......... now If I can just unload 20K of merchandise....


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## hankster

There is always the Swap and Sell


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## jimbo52

*painting*

Just a thought from a slotcar painter, laquer and water base paints work well with each other, just need to have one dry before spraying the next. Try thinning the water base with dye *free* windex, takes very small amounts to get a great job. I use bottled Nitrogen and NEVER wash the bodies before paint is applied, upwards of 60# for water base (older Binks gun with large tip),30 or 40# for laquer (cheap brush), lots less room to work with on 24th scale or 32nd scale, even do some great flame jobs on HO. Problem we have is weight, bodies are 4 grams clear, if done right you can have 3 or 4 colors and only add 1 or 2 grams, unless we go for inside stickers, then you get another 2 or 3 grams stuck on. I have tried many different brands with no problems, using House of Color (nice) Spaztick (pretty good) and Alclad (Great), all are pretty pricy for doing RC bodies, you can eat up some bucks by the time you finish, but the customer sure is happy. Anyway just reading along and thought I'd add my 2 cents. :dude:


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