# Honda GCV160



## johntech

Bent the crank on my new  craftsman push mower GCV160 motor.

Was wondering if there is any info on the web on this engine (parts breakdown) 

A little concerned about re-assembly how to ensure i get the timing belt on correctly. I don't see a timing mark on the crank anywhere.

Can i just push the piston to the top of the stroke and turn the cam gear till both valves are closed on the compression stroke and slip the belt on at that point or am I missing something?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## bugman

So warranty wouldn't take care of it?


----------



## johntech

Well it's not that new 2yrs with a 1yr warranty. 2 yrs is still new to me.


----------



## Homer D Poe

hi, unlike the gear driven cranks with dimple to align everything, on the gcv160 you use the keyway groove on the shaft and the alignment marks on the cam pulley. Position the engine with the cylinder head up and the pto shaft horizontal to the table top. The cam pulley marks should be horizontal and even with the top of the cylinder head surface. The keyway on the pto should be at 90 degrees to the cam pulley alignment marks. Have forwarded you a copy of the manual, the infor is on page 53 of 75


----------



## Homer D Poe

Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.


----------



## johntech

Homer D Poe said:


> Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.



you got a pm.


----------



## veltkamp

Homer D Poe said:


> Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.



I would also appreciate a copy of the manual. I sent you a PM with my email address.

Thanks


----------



## big ed

any t


----------



## ChadwickHugh

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I need the same help. I'm replacing a bent crank on my GCV160 powered HRR216 and am having a difficult time figuring out how to set the timing. If anyone has a service manual that covers this, I'd appreciate a copy. 

Thanks in advance,
Chad


----------



## 30yearTech

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=33726&stc=1

There is a casting mark on the cylinder sleeve just above the crankshaft. It amounts to a small line running down towards the crankshaft ( l ) it is lined up with the timing mark on the gear of the crankshaft. Set the camshaft as shown in the diagram in the link above and install the timing belt.

Best of Luck :thumbsup:


----------



## ChadwickHugh

Thanks 30yearTech, but I have one more question. I saw the line on the cylinder sleeve, but the timing mark? There was what appears to be a small arrow on the "crank" portion of the crank shaft. (not sure what you call it, but the extended portion the connecting rod connects to.) I aligned that arrow with the line on the sleeve. Hopefully that is correct, because I just buttoned her up (needed to get this done pronto.) If not, I can still break it apart again. Let me know.

Thanks again.


----------



## ChadwickHugh

See the attached photo to see what I'm talking about with the arrow.


----------



## ChadwickHugh

Well no need to answer, I decided to try my luck, and it's running great. I turned it over by hand to check the cycle, and everything appeared to be correct just on a visual inspection. Bolted it up and it cranked on the first pull. I had to fiddle with the governor a bit to get it to run smooth, but it's working just like the day I bought it.

Thanks again guys. And hopefully the above photo will help someone out, and if you need a pict of the cylinder marking, I can get those too.


----------



## 30yearTech

Sorry, I forgot that the mark was cast into the shaft and not punched on the gear.

Glad to hear you got it going.


----------



## luciferX

Ok, new to this area and new to small engines. I've done enough car work to take this on and I really have nothing to lose. 

Accidentally hit a small tree stump (an offshoot of a larger stump) and bent the shaft and blade holder of my GCV160. Gonna try replacing the crankshaft before buying the holder in case it doesn't go so well. Any further advice? 

There are four or so crankshafts listed on some sites. Is there a mark on it to tell exactly which one I have?

i.e.
Crankshaft (N1-type), Crankshaft (N2-type), Crankshaft (N3-type), Crankshaft (specs: BHH, EHHB), Crankshaft (specs: E5AH and starting with "N5"), Crankshaft (spec: NBL1), Crankshaft (spec: N7A1), Crankshaft (specs: STA1, STL1, RTL1, R3A1)


I assume the thrust washer should be replaced as well. The bend is minimal at the seal and no leaks are present. Should I bother replacing the oil seals?

Do folks here usually buy the real gaskets or use the rtv/hi-temp silicone tube stuff?

I've read the above comments and appreciate all the info.


----------



## 30yearTech

luciferX,

What is the brand and model / spec number off of your engine?


----------



## luciferX

*Specs... That is a good question*

The mower is an HRR2162SDA-DE s/n MZCG-6979144

You probably need the specs off the engine. I don't have them but I will go look tonight and reply again. I now know where to look.


----------



## 30yearTech

13310-ZM0-610	CRANKSHAFT (N3-TYPE) (Honda Code 5664495).

This is the crankshaft part number I came up with. Wherever you order the crankshaft from, give them your model and serial numbers and let them verify the correct part number. That way if there is a problem with the part, it's on them to make it right.

This engine uses High Temp Silicon Sealant for the sump to cylinder assembly.

It's up to you, I have used the old seals on some engines and never had a problem. The seal is replaceable without taking the engine apart so if it ever started leaking you could replace it at that time, but it's up to you. I only replace the thrust washer if it looks like it needs to be replaced.


----------



## luciferX

*OK, the engine is...*

The engine is labelled Honda 160 cm3 so we know it is a gcv160.

The other code is
GJAEA-2190062 MY1*

Any idea how to decode this?

As for the shaft, the differences are related to how long the shaft extends from the engine and the size of the key-ways. Still, I'd like to be sure.
Having the parts supplier double check sounds like a FINE idea.

Your suggestion is what Plano listed on their parts site.

Thanks again.


----------



## luciferX

*cracked the thing open and...*

and it was easier than I thought.

Bent crankshaft removal did not require removing the piston or rings. The disassembly took an hour or so because I was documenting the steps. New parts are on order. I will post with pictures if I get it all working.

I shouldn't have hesitated to take on this job. It really isn't that bad.


----------



## jackel10k

luciferX said:


> and it was easier than I thought.
> 
> Bent crankshaft removal did not require removing the piston or rings. The disassembly took an hour or so because I was documenting the steps. New parts are on order. I will post with pictures if I get it all working.
> 
> I shouldn't have hesitated to take on this job. It really isn't that bad.


Glad to hear you say that. I have the same problem myself. Honda Harmony mower HRR2163TDA Engine is a GCV160 S/N GJEA 3994498 MO81. I will be calling plano on Monday for parts. Would be interested in any pointers from your experience. 

Thanks!!!


----------



## luciferX

*Crank shaft replacement - part 1*

I will try to document the procedure for those of you who did what I did: hit something and bent the crank on a gcv160. I am no 30yr tech. I know cars but never claimed to be a small engine pro. Although things worked out well for me, I am not responsible if you try this and ruin your mower or hurt yourself. All disclaimers apply. Be careful.



1. Disconnect the spark plug. I removed it so no compression possible but I am a little paranoid.

2. Empty the oil: Remove the dip stick and tip the mower so the oil leaves through the dipstick tube. My gcv160 didn't have a drain plug bolt as some do.

3. Get out the digital camera and take pictures of everything. Specifically, note the springs and cable connections on the engine for throttle, governor and kill switch. Disconnect the throttle and kill switch cables from the engine.

4. Drain the gas and disconnect the fuel line. There is a small screw at the base of the carburator bowl that when removed will drain the rest of the gas in the mower. Remember to leave the fuel cutoff switch open so all the fuel drains out. You will wear it later if you don't.

5. Remove the three nuts that hold the starter cord assy and tank (the big red plastic) onto the mower. Set it aside somewhere safe.

6. Remove the blades and blade holder (3 bolts, washers). There is a key in there that is really easy to lose. On my machine, the blades and the holder (sometimes called a shoe) got bent as well. Plano to the rescue. The new shoe came with a key without ordering it separately.

7. Remove the drive belt. No need to actually take it out, just get it off the crankshaft pulley. You can take the tension off the belt by grabbing the drive pulley (not on the engine) which is spring loaded and pulling it by hand toward the shaft pulley.

8. Remove the belt pulley from the bottom of the crankshaft. It may require your gear puller. I used a marker to note which side goes toward the engine and which toward the blades. Don't know if you can install this up-side-down but better paranoid than wrong.

9. Remove the four bolts that hold the engine on the mower deck.

10. Take the engine inside to someplace easier to work.


----------



## luciferX

*Crank shaft replacement - part 2*

Got the engine off the mower deck and inside the garage/basement...


11. Place the engine on an upside down milk crate so no pressure is on the exposed crankshaft (even though you're gonna replace it anyway). 

12. Remove the rev limiter (governor) arm by disconnecting the three springs and loosening the arm nut. Remove the arm and set aside. The service manual shows how to put the springs back but take a picture. I am not sure if this needs re-adjustment after reinstalling, it seemed ok and sounded like it was limiting at the right point. No idea how to measure what rpm the motor is spinning at.

13. Remove the flywheel. This is the top block of metal (a disc) with the fan blades on it. There is one nut holding it on (simple) but you'll need to hold it still to take it off. I used large pliers set with a rag to prevent gouging, on the four metal tabs on the top to keep it from spinning. Once the nut is off, you'll see a key notch under where the nut was. Rotate the flywheel until it points roughly to the spark plug. Next, take a two tooth gear puller and set the teeth at the two places marked on the flywheel for the puller. Remove the flywheel. It didn't want to come off for my but finally popped off with a bang. My gear puller was a bit small (6" craftsman model) so the metal mesh got a little bit bent. I straightened it with pliers afterward. Don't tell anyone. Remember to find the D shaped key left on the crankshaft, you'll need it again and it is easy to misplace. Also, examine this key. I am told it can be bent easily and if so might throw the timing off. If it looks at all disfigured, replace it. Mine was fine.

A couple of warnings: I have a gear puller and a torque wrench. I don't have a piston ring compressor. You won't need a ring compressor for this job if you keep the piston in the cylinder bore. It can come out and if it does, you'll be buying the compressor. It isn't expensive but if you're careful and don't allow the piston to move, you won't need it.

Second, once the valve cover is off (the next step), if you turn over the engine, the two pins may fall out and the rocker/lifter arms will fall off. There are two sets of (pin, arm). These ride the cam and open the valves. They are easy to put back but be aware and don't get spooked if they fall out. The arms are different (mirror images of each other) and obviously won't fit if you get them mixed up.

13. Remove the valve cover. This is the tin piece with the big letters "OHC". It is held in place by 4 bolts and the rtv gasket material. It will come off without bending if you are careful. I am told folks bend this often. It wasn't that hard so no excuses.

14. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the bottom and top halves of the engine together. Honda calls the bottom half "the oil pan". Their cool design makes this easy. The bolts come out and the RTV gasket will keep it together. The mating surfaces need to be smooth so don't pry it open with anything that can gouge metal. There will be a little oil left in the pan so be ready with rags. The crankshaft stays with the top half.

15. The oil pan (bottom half of the engine) will have a washer inside where the crankshaft was. It is now free so note where it goes and which side was up. It is not a bad idea to replace this even if it is ok.

16. This is the most time consuming part of the whole process: Remove the RTV gasket material and clean the surfaces for new stuff. Permatex Ultra Grey was recommended but I bought the HondaBond stuff (also grey color). The original gasket material was black.

I am sure there is a better way to remove the gasket material but I don't know it. I used a lot of rags and a putty knife. Be very careful to scrape and clean it well without gouging the metal. Leave a big scratch and you may have leaks later. Try not to let the shavings get into the open engine or valves. I know I am being paranoid here but be careful. Clean the top/bottom engine mating surfaces and the valve cover/head mating surfaces until smooth, clean and shiny.


----------



## luciferX

*Crank shaft replacement - part 3*

Mower engine is off, two halves are separate and clean, valve cover off...

Take another picture: the cam now with the cover off.

17. With the valve cover off, there is a 1/4 inch pin you can get at to remove the cam gear. It is on the underside of the engine and is partially covered by the valve cover you just removed. Just wiggle/turn and pull out this pin. It should take very little effort and the cam will go free.

18. Remove the timing belt from the cam and remove the cam gear.

19. With the cam out, take the belt off the crankshaft and remove completely. Set aside.

20. Look at the crank shaft. The weighted side should be centered, pointed away from the piston. This is where the piston is at top dead center. Turn the crank by hand to align if not. Note the connecting rod cap. This is the piece that keeps the piston connecting rod on the crank shaft. There are two bolts that hold it on. Mine has a tab on one side. With a marker, put a dot on one side on both the cap and the connecting rod so you don't accidentally flip the cap when reinstalling. I didn't do this step but I was careful. If you do flip it, the tab may hit the oil dipstick or engine wall when you reassemble.

Take another picture. You want to remove the two bolts and the cap but keep the piston and connecting rod from rotating.

21. Remove the crank shaft and verify the new one is the same. 

22. Put some grease (or just clean oil if that is all you have) on the new crank shaft where the connecting rod mounts and where the top and bottom pass through berings. Install the new crank shaft by sliding it into place.

23. Reinstall the connecting rod and cap around the crank shaft assuring the dots made earlier line up and that the same side of the cap is up as before. Torque the two bolts down to spec with a torque wrench. 

24. Verify the crank shaft still turns freely by hand and that nothing binds up.

25. Align the crank shaft as before with the big weighted side away from the piston. The side toward the piston should have an arrow on it right above where the connecting rod and cap mount. This should align with a line on the head inside the engine. See the picture "shaft_alignment.jpg". If I took the picture straight on, the marks would align better than they look.

26. Reinstall the timing belt, cam gear and pin. With the crank shaft aligned, the cam needs to be installed so the back of it has the notches aligned with the top of the head. See the second picture "cam_alignment.jpg". 

27. Make sure the washer in the oil pan is lined up and verify the two engine halves fit back together. If it looks like it aligns, split the engine halves and apply the gasket material to the mating surfaces. This stuff smells so make sure you have windows open. Put it on thin and spread it with a small disposable paint brush. Apply to both sides and wait one minute or so the directions on the tube suggest. Put the halves together and torque the 8 bolts to spec with the torque wrench. 

If you use too much it will drip inside the engine (not good) so make it thin but cover the mating surfaces completely.

28. Reinstall the valve cover with the same goo. Four bolts with the torque wrench again.

29. Let it sit and cure. I am sure this is unnecessary but I was about done by this point.


----------



## luciferX

*Crank shaft replacement - part 4 <final>*

Engine halves back together and valve cover back on...

30. Reinstall the key and flywheel. Torque the nut down to spec with the torque wrench. The key should point to the spark plug if nothing has moved.

31. Reinstall the governor arm and springs. Glad you took the pictures yet?

32. Reinstall the engine on the mower. There are four bolts.

33. Reinstall the pulley on the crank shaft bottom and reinstall the drive belt. The shoe will keep the pulley in place.

34. Reinstall the key and shoe, blades. You bought new blades, yes?

35. Reinstall the gas tank, fuel line and starter pull. Three nuts is it for this plus the clamp for the fuel line.

36. Reinstall the two cables: throttle and blade clutch.

37. Install a new spark plug, spark plug boot. A new air cleaner would be nice too if you are going all out.

38. Add new oil to the engine. This is not a good one to forget.

38. Add gas and verify nothing leaks/drips.

39. Mow your lawn and hang the bent crank shaft as your trophie.



My crank shaft was bent but not so bad that I needed to replace berings or seals. Your mileage may vary. Obviously, look for broken stuff and replace what is necessary. Even with all the gas drained, mine started first pull.

A lot of pictures are available if anyone wants more of any step.

Good luck.


----------



## 30yearTech

You can email all the pictures you have to me, I would like to have them in my archive of Info I am accumulating.

Thanks --
Ken

[email protected]


----------



## jph74

Hi, I am about to attempt the removal and replacement of the crankshaft on a GCV160a. I am - shall we say, 'mechanically challenged,' LOL! DIY fix-it jobs and I don't get along very well. But, out of desperation, and a lack of $$$ at the moment, I really have no other choice but to try and do this job myself. Hmmm. We'll see how it goes.

LuciferX - I really appreciate the fact that you posted detailed, step by step instructions. I think they are going to help tremendously. So, thanks in advance!!! However, I really think it would benefit me even more to have pics to go by. You mentioned that you have pics available. Could you please email some - or all of those to me? Either that or post them here - whichever way you prefer is perfectly fine with me. 
Thank you.

I have not yet started this project yet. I hope to complete it this week. As of right now, I have the parts that I am going to need, namely the crankshaft, LOL. But, I also got the two oil seals - just in case, the o-ring that the service manual is telling me not to re-use, and obviously - the service manual too. Oh, and I bought a gear puller from a local auto parts store today since you mentioned that one would be needed. I don't know if any other parts stores do this or not. But in my case, I called the store and asked if they had the pullers in stock. I was told that yes, they do. But, as a big bonus, they also told me that if I pay the $49.95 in advance for the puller, I could simply bring it back to the store when I was done with it - and get a full refund on it. No rental charges involved. Not too shabby of a deal - if you ask me!

I will wait for a few days and see if maybe I get a response on the pic request. If not, I'll just try to do as best as I can without them. It really doesn't sound all THAT difficult. But, remember this - we are talking about someone who used to take things apart every now and them to, um, fix them (LOL!) and somehow, some way - I ALWAYS seemed to end up with 'spare' parts when I completed the job. Needless to say, those 'spare' parts were not spare in any sense of the word. I would eventually figure out where they belonged, but still...Yes, this particular job ought to be quite interesting for me. Oh, how I am looking forward to this, LOL! 

If you could provide those pics - or any other helpful tips regarding this, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance,
Jim


----------



## jph74

Oh, sorry folks. Just one quick question, if I may?

When I shopped for the crankshaft (a type N3???), the first place I looked was the Honda site. They wanted, if I remember correctly, $160 or so for it. Too much since a NEW motor would only cost me about $200! So, I called up a local place that can order this kind of part and was told it would cost $115. OK, so that is a little better cost-wise. Then, I searched the internet, and came up with a site with the address, www.jackssmallengine.com Anyway, on there, the crankshaft listed for only (roughly) $24 or so, + shipping. $32 and some change in all. So, I ordered it. The part came, and the box is clearly labeled as Genuine Honda parts. My question is: Did I pay the right price for it and really get Honda parts? Or, am I getting some Honda knock-off part. Is it really possible that the difference in cost could vary by such a HUGE amount, as it did in my case?

Just curious, that's all.

Thanks again. Sorry for the long post before...And this one too!


----------



## luciferX

*The price is right*

I paid something like $30 for mine and it came in a real Honda stamped, brown cardboard box. It was exactly the same as the old one save for some date code like stampings. It was a real "authorized" part I have no doubt.

I also have no doubt a real one should cost around $30 plus a fortune for shipping 'cause they are heavy. If folks are charging 4x that, they just want to sell more engines than parts.

Jack's small engines is a great place as far as my experience. I bought from plano but either sounds better than someone asking over $100 for a $30 part.

As for the pictures, I took a lot. I'll figure out the best ones and post them tonight or tomorrow. Glad to help.


----------



## jph74

I think the pics will be a definite help for me. I really do appreciate your help in this. Thanks again!!!!

Jim


----------



## luciferX

*Pictures from the crank shaft replacement - set 1*

Here are some of the better pictures.


----------



## luciferX

*Pictures from the crank shaft replacement - set 2*

Set #2


----------



## luciferX

*Pictures from the crank shaft replacement - set 3*

Set #3, one set left


----------



## luciferX

*Pictures from the crank shaft replacement - set 4*

last pictures from the set. More are available but the pretty much duplicate what is here. Good luck to all those trying this. Hope this helps.


----------



## jph74

Oh yes, I think those will help me out a lot. Thanks so much for posting them. It is appreciated very much!!! I think I'll be doing this either today, or tomorrow. Hopefully, it will only take me a few hours. Seems like it should take about that long though. We'll see....

Thanks again!
Jim


----------



## jph74

Sorry guys, but there seems to be a little trouble in paradise, LOL!

I did everything as instructed - and right now, I am up to the part where I now must remove the flywheel. I have the puller on in the correct locations (as indicated on the flywheel itself), and the 'key' facing toward the spark plug and all that good stuff. But, no matter how I try, I simply cannot get that darn flywheel off! Let me step back for a moment: I did take the flywheel nut off - yes. Just in case you were wondering? So, it should now come off, right? The problem is that no matter how much pressure I apply to the gear puller, the flywheel is simply not budging. I didn't expect it to be easy, but to be honest - I'm tightening down on the gear puller so hard, and with so very much pressure that I am seriously afraid that something, somewhere has to give under that much force. My main concern is the flywheel itself, and perhaps that cracking, or maybe breaking apart???

Any clue as to how I can remedy this situation? I've given up for tonight. But, unless I get that flywheel off, I'm essentially sunk. Could I be missing an important step in this process? I'm totally stumped...

If anyone can provide help in this, I would be ever so grateful for it!

Thanks in advance,
Jim


----------



## jph74

One last post on this thread from me. I managed to get the flywheel off, so that problem has been resolved. It took a lot of penetrating oil, and lots of elbow grease, but I did it. Thanks anyway!


----------



## luciferX

*flywheel removal comments*

Yea, mine didn't come off easily but it did pop off without too much trouble. The thing is that you shouldn't hit it with a hammer to break it loose (as much as it is tempting to do so) as you'll probably stress the bearings, seals, and everything else in there.

Penetrating oil (liquid wrench, Marvin's mystery oil and the likes) are great but can penetrate too much. They're meant for rusty bolts. Be sure to use sparingly and clean it up once done. You don't want that stuff sitting on seals too long.

Glad you got the flywheel off. Let us know when you are up and running, as I'm sure you will be soon.


----------



## bartman10

I need to fix my crankshaft too. I snapped the bold off again that holds the blade. I usually drill the bolt and use an "easy-out" to get them out but the broken bolt was at a high angle and I wound up drilling into the crankshaft.. it's totally screwed now.

I don't know witch type of crank I need and the best place to get it. I can only find the SN number on the engine block, no part #
Gjaea494604453a*

The mower is a Troy-Built 
Mower 11a542q711

So can anyone tell me what part number I need for my crank and a good place to get it?

Thanks,
Bart


----------



## 30yearTech

bartman10 said:


> I need to fix my crankshaft too. I snapped the bold off again that holds the blade. I usually drill the bolt and use an "easy-out" to get them out but the broken bolt was at a high angle and I wound up drilling into the crankshaft.. it's totally screwed now.
> 
> I don't know witch type of crank I need and the best place to get it. I can only find the SN number on the engine block, no part #
> Gjaea494604453a*
> 
> The mower is a Troy-Built
> Mower 11a542q711
> 
> So can anyone tell me what part number I need for my crank and a good place to get it?
> 
> Thanks,
> Bart


MTD site shows your engine model to be GCV160 LAS3A

Crankshaft should be Honda 13310-ZM0-610 I would give the above model and your serial number and let them verify the correct part number for your engine.

Best of Luck...


----------



## bartman10

Oh man thanks for the reply! Where do you find this info?!

Bart


----------



## 30yearTech

bartman10 said:


> Oh man thanks for the reply! Where do you find this info?!
> 
> Bart


http://buymtdonline.arinet.com/scri...vlet/processShoppingCart_10101_15601_-1_19502


http://www.css-club.net/honda/pp-service/info/index.asp


----------



## fastattack309

*Bent Crankshaft*

I have a Honda HRC216KHXA with a bent crankshaft. I am trying to find all the info i can to try to do this project myself. I took it to the local repair shop and they wanted $600.00 + to fix it. He was willing to make me a "deal" on a new one. I did a little surfing on the net and found a new crankshaft for about $150.00. Does this sound right? I am ok with tools but have never torn a engine apart like this. The mower is only a few years old so i would like to fix it. Where can i find more info about this engine. I saw the pictures in this post but i am unsure if it is the same engine. Any help would be great thanks


----------



## 30yearTech

$150.00 is about right for the crankshaft. 

The engine in this post is not the same as the one on your mower.

You can find some service information at the following website:

http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/welcome.html

click on the service link and then the shop manuals, the engine on your mower should be a GXV 160.

Best of Luck...


----------



## Fredbo1

*Crankshaft Bent*

I too am contemplating replacing my crankshaft.

My Husqvarna 5521CHVB walk behind mower runs very rough when the engine is put under the slightest strain. A local small engine mechanic spun the blade and told me the crankshaft was bent and it wasn't worth repairing. This $300 mower is only 2 years old. So, after reading some of these posts I am thinking of tackling the job myself.

I think the engine is a GCV160A. The numbers I found are GJAEA 2466395. This mower has recoil start, constant throttle (not sure if that is what its called), and automatic choke return. What numbers are required to ensure I get the correct parts.

Thanks!


----------



## 30yearTech

The numbers you have should be the right ones to locate a crankshaft. A bent shaft generally will not cause the engine to bog. You should check the flywheel key as it may be sheared and the ignition timing may be off.


----------



## Fredbo1

Here's a little background on my trouble since you don't think it is necessarily a bent crankshaft.

I hit a stump not long after purchasing the mower and it mangled the blade but after replacing the blade it ran fine. About a year ago I hit another stump, again mangling the blade but after blade replacement the mower seemed to run fine except the automatic choke return would no longer shut off automatically. Over the last few months the mower is beginning to bog down (run rough/lose torque) when cutting grass - there is also black smoke from the exhaust when this happens.

If it is a timing/flywheel key issue will I be able to repair from the top or will I have to tear the motor down?

Thanks


----------



## 30yearTech

Just to be clear, I did not mean that you did not have a bent shaft. I only meant that a bent shaft will generally not cause an engine to run rough or bog down. Running a mower with a bent shaft can lead to premature engine and mower deck failure, due to the vibration caused by a bent crankshaft.

That being said, your problem is most likely a dirty air filter and a fouling spark plug. Replace the air filter and spark plug and I would bet that the engine will run as good as you remember it ran after you last replaced the blade.

Best of Luck... :thumbsup:


----------



## Fredbo1

*Gcv160*

Thanks 30YT...I went out today and replaced the air filter and spark plug. It started right up and I spent the last 45 mins cutting grass and it hasn't "bogged down" once.

Thanks


----------



## 30yearTech

Thanks for the update, glad it all worked out for you. :thumbsup:


----------



## hondaguy

*Torque Specs*

Wow, what a great write up, thanks so much for your time and especially the photos. It looks like a good opportunity to clean things up inside the engine also. 

Can anyone list the torque specs for the various nuts and bolts that are removed for the crankshaft replacement procedure? Primarily the case bolts and the flywheel nut. Thanks so much.


----------



## luciferX

*torque specs*

Here ya go...


----------



## hondaguy

*Torque specs*

Thank you for the information.


----------



## zo6speed

*Thanks for this wonderful info...but a problem...*

Hey all.

Thanks for the great insight!! 

My engine is on my garage floor...with the 8 engine bolts removed. I am unable to break the RTV seal with my hands no matter how hard I pull. I hate to get my screwdriver in there....so my question is - 

How do I break this seal without damaging the mating surfaces?

Thanks again for all the photos and step-by-step. This is a Honda Harmony II with a bent crankshaft.

Z


----------



## luciferX

zo6speed said:


> Hey all.
> 
> Thanks for the great insight!!
> 
> My engine is on my garage floor...with the 8 engine bolts removed. I am unable to break the RTV seal with my hands no matter how hard I pull. I hate to get my screwdriver in there....so my question is -
> 
> How do I break this seal without damaging the mating surfaces?
> 
> Thanks again for all the photos and step-by-step. This is a Honda Harmony II with a bent crankshaft.
> 
> Z


Pry it appart using something plastic. A plastic putty knife should work.
Me, I used a regular screwdriver but I was careful to pry only at certain points
where I could get leverage without endangering the mating surfaces.

I thought there were a few spots like that made into the casing. I'll have to take
another look.


----------



## luciferX

*There are pry points in the casing*

Look at the red circled points in the attached picture. You should be able to use a flat head screwdriver in these if you are careful without endangering the mating surfaces. Be careful.

It should make better sense when you look at the picture/your casing at these points.


----------



## zo6speed

I saw those leverage points but my screwdriver doesn't get a good enough grip. I'll have to grab a plastic putty knife and see what I can do.

Thanks for your reply and photo!! It will be great help. I'll let you know how it goes.

Z


----------



## zo6speed

I finally got it. I ended up using a much larger screwdriver and a .004 feeler gauge. The feeler gauge acted as a cutting tool because about .004 was all I could get in there. It broke the seal and I was able to separate the two engine halves. 

I think I was trying to pry the two pieces apart at the wrong angle too. You may want to pull almost directly upward. There are two guide pins that you can't see until you pull the halves apart. So pull straight up...NOT at an angle like I did.

Right now I'm at the long part of cleaning the RTV gasket gunk off. What a pain!! Also - I guess it goes without saying but I'll also remove the RTV gasket material off the valve cover too.

The bottom part of my shaft is bent and I can see it much better now. I guess that would explain the intense vibration!! 

Thank you kindly - LuciferX.


----------



## luciferX

Glad to help.


----------



## zo6speed

Hey LuciferX - Again - thanks so much for your help. I had messed up the timing because I didn't look at the cam correctly. All is working now! 

I still have a slight problem which was occurring right after I hit the stump. By the way - the engine immediately died. The blade was bent, the crankshaft was bent AND the blade flange was bent. I still have to replace that. But once I restarted - with everything bent...the engine revved up well above it's normal operating/cutting speed.

I did the install for the new crankshaft no problem but now when I start it, I have the same really high speed revs. I have to put the speed lever about half way to get the "normal" operating RPMs. Otherwise it's just about 300 rpms too high. I'm just going by sound and feel.

I believe I put the governor springs back correctly (the bend is closest to the carburetor and has the spring around it and connected). Any ideas on why this is happening? I'm puzzled. 

Thanks for any input. And any others that may have input... please help.


----------



## luciferX

*Take another look at the governor*

I would guess that either you have the governor internal parts assembled wrong or the arm is not attached properly. I have attached the best I can offer (more pictures) and hopefully something will look different to you.

In the first shot, assure the arm is not rotated from its original position relative to the shaft. Look if you can at the parts to see if they have marks where they were originally.

In the second shot the internal parts are shown. Hopefully something will strike you (hopefully not literally).


----------



## zo6speed

Okay...great! I was looking for some photos like this yesterday and was unsuccessful. 

I was careful to put the external governor back on the same way I found it. 

I can't believe I have to separate the engine AGAIN! You know, I feel comfortable with it but that grey gasket seal is a real booger to separate. I had to redo the OHV cover to set the timing properly and I was lucky to get in there. HA!

Anyway - I never really disassembled the governor. I should have looked at the plastic gear at the bottom of the oil case a little closer. I didn't notice anything unusual or parts floating around in there. Perhaps the broken gears occurred after the blades stopped so suddenly?

Do the plastic gears have anything to do with the governor? I apologize for my lack of knowledge - I'm a total novice and really did this to learn and save some bucks. So if I sound ignorant, my apologies. I looked online for a schematic or exploded view - heck even an animation on how these parts work together to try and solve the problem.

The reason I ask is because right after the engine died (hit the stump pretty good) I restarted the mower and noticed the high rpms. It wasn't until I lowered the "power" lever from near choke to roughly the halfway point (from lowest power to choke) did the rpms come back to "normal" operating power. 

The engine speed does not bog down when mowing the grass...so the power stays constant. 

Thanks for the insight on these questions. I really can't tell you how awesome it is to fix your own mistakes!!! It's even cooler that I can get some advice from some real pros who have way more experience than I!!!!


----------



## zo6speed

Have you heard of the governor weights breaking off of the plastic gear located on the bottom of the oil pan??

Just wondering if this is possible. There was nothing in the original oil. Perhaps a weight or two are magnetized and stuck to the bottom of the piston?

I think it may be possible the weights became unattached after the sudden stop of the engine/crankshaft. Just wondering - anyone heard of something like this happening?


----------



## 30yearTech

If your still running the engine with a bent blade adapter and or blades this can cause a vibration that can affect operating rpm's. You may also want to try performing a static governor adjustment, before your tear your engine back down. It's unlikely that there was any damage to the governor when the engine stopped abruptly.


----------



## jimknight

*photos of gcv 160*



luciferX said:


> I would guess that either you have the governor internal parts assembled wrong or the arm is not attached properly. I have attached the best I can offer (more pictures) and hopefully something will look different to you.
> 
> In the first shot, assure the arm is not rotated from its original position relative to the shaft. Look if you can at the parts to see if they have marks where they were originally.
> 
> In the second shot the internal parts are shown. Hopefully something will strike you (hopefully not literally).


boy lucifer has a great camera what type took photos


----------



## paddym

*Will this engine fit my machine?*

Hi Folks

I have a mower with a Honda GXV160 which is totally clapped out and am about to buy another one from someone else and am not sure if it is the correct model number.

My Enginehas the following details: Honda GXV 160-163cm3 OHV
MY2
GJ03 810 2360
10 30 01 02 93
Carburettor ID A	BE
Carburettor ID B	668WLK ] or 66BWLK ]

The engine I am thinking of buying has the following details:
GXV160 H2 A1S NH1 GJAAH 108- - -, pto shaft type drawing is N1.

Do you think it will fit my machine?

Regards
Paddy


----------



## 30yearTech

paddym said:


> Hi Folks
> 
> I have a mower with a Honda GXV160 which is totally clapped out and am about to buy another one from someone else and am not sure if it is the correct model number.
> 
> My Enginehas the following details: Honda GXV 160-163cm3 OHV
> MY2
> GJ03 810 2360
> 10 30 01 02 93
> Carburettor ID A	BE
> Carburettor ID B	668WLK ] or 66BWLK ]
> 
> The engine I am thinking of buying has the following details:
> GXV160 H2 A1S NH1 GJAAH 108- - -, pto shaft type drawing is N1.
> 
> Do you think it will fit my machine?
> 
> Regards
> Paddy


I have check all my sources and cannot find a listing for the engine on your mower.

What is the brand and model of lawn mower this engine is on. Crankshaft may be specific to this particular unit and not the same as what is on the replacement engine.


----------



## paddym

*Honda HRD 536*

Hi 30yearTech 

My mower is a Honda HRD 536 and it came with my house i.e. the previous owner of my house bought it probably 10 years ago. 
I can take a photo of it if that's any help?

Regards
PaddyM


----------



## 30yearTech

Man I can't track down that model mower either. I don't know what to tell you, maybe someone more familiar with Honda will chime in....


----------



## paddym

Here are a number of links to the Honda 536 lawn mower. I am not sure whether my model is a 536 QX or a 536 HM etc as my machine only has Honda 536 written on it.
http://www.justhonda.co.uk/pages/product23.htm

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...:IE-SearchBox&rlz=1I7RNWI&q=honda+hrd+536+ohc

Most of the models in the links above have a GXV 163 OHC engine but my mower has a GXV 163 OHV engine instead.
Which part of the model number are you having trouble finding?


----------



## 30yearTech

This model must be for Europe only, that's why I can't track down any parts lists for it in the U.S..

If you can locate the part number for the crankshaft that's in your current engine and compare it to the one that's in the engine you want to use then you will know if they are the same or not.


----------



## rotti1968

bugman said:


> So warranty wouldn't take care of it?


bending crank shaft on a honda engine attached to a mower is not a warranty item. they are made to bend when something hard is it to prevent the blade from breaking off and coming out from under the deck and hitting your legs or someone else.


----------



## rotti1968

fastattack309 said:


> I have a Honda HRC216KHXA with a bent crankshaft. I am trying to find all the info i can to try to do this project myself. I took it to the local repair shop and they wanted $600.00 + to fix it. He was willing to make me a "deal" on a new one. I did a little surfing on the net and found a new crankshaft for about $150.00. Does this sound right? I am ok with tools but have never torn a engine apart like this. The mower is only a few years old so i would like to fix it. Where can i find more info about this engine. I saw the pictures in this post but i am unsure if it is the same engine. Any help would be great thanks


wow i do that repair for around 250.00 to 300.00 depending on the unit . it only takes a little over an hour to tear down and rebuild the lower end on the gcv160 .and most of the cranks for the gcv's only list for around 120 to 140


----------



## 1980e12mpl

Homer D Poe said:


> Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.


sorry to dig up an old thread.
I am in the process of replacing a crank, and thought I might ask if you could email me a manual as well. thanks in advance for any help.

[email protected] dot com


----------



## BAleiHi

Well, here we are a year later and my GCV160 gave out - stuck intake valve. I took the whole thing apart (including the cylinder and valves), cleaned everything up, and am reassembling. Luciferx's step by step and pics are priceless, especially since my camcorder on which I recorded the disassembly just went belly up - modern day Hansel & Gretl eh? One thing I will say is that I got the cylinder back in without a ring tool - some persistence, carefully squeezing of the rings and just a hint of rocking back and forth did the trick. But my question is about the key in the flywheel. I think mine is stuck in the crankshaft groove and doesn't come out. It protrudes enough to catch in the groove of the flywheel but not as much as I think it might. Luciferx's description (step 11) implies that it is a separate piece. I didn't actually take the flywheel off - my wife took it to a guy who had a puller and he did it. So I'm not sure if there's a piece missing, if I have a crankshaft model with a pressfit key, my key is bent and thus stuck. Without a service manual, I'm about to just guess that it's not a problem and keep going. But I'd feel better with some advice...TIA


----------



## marky

i have a stuck intake valve too. i'm going to fix it myself, but in the mean time & after doing some reading, i suspect that maybe a lack of cooling on honda's design is part of the problem & that throttle lever with choke (all in one) is to blame too. I took mine in for warranty shortly for the air cleaner door & to take a look at the sticking lever (sticking from fast to choke). they didn't fix either, so i lived with it until now, now she's dead. upon starting to take apart the mower engine i noticed the choke partially closed, it wasn't the carb, i cleaned carb anyway & control assy - ok now. i took apart that lever and noticed a notch at the full position, that's why it clicks & i hard to move to choke, now i know the reason. they don't want choke accidentally. i the past i pushed the lever (kind of like the tooth inside going a little further) for more rpm's during mowing, i won't do that anymore. that was probably engaging the choke slightly, running leaner, hotter, now stuck intake valve.

i have top & lower seals, both valves, valve springs, valve seal on the way - on spec. of being bad. have'nt got that far in tear down.

does this carb have a spring around the needle valve? mine didn't or i lost it. GCV160 engine.

please correct me if i'm wrong...tnx


----------



## marky

hi, i tore apart engine, i got intake valve working with carb cleaner, nice & easy now. i will pull the piston to inpect the invalve & it's wall in engine casting. everything else tooks great inside. i may not need the parts i order after all.


----------



## RVC

Hello all. I'm new here and this is my first post. It's great having all this info and advice on the GCV160 engine as that's my problem as well - a bent crank resulting from the friend who owns the lawn mower hitting a steel culvert with it.

I appreciate the comment from someone a while back about the crank being designed to bend. I wouldn't have figured on that and wondered how something as thick as this crank could bend so badly.

I noticed the discussion on the cost for these cranks. I priced mine from the local lawnmower shop and a new Honda crank was just under $31 which is about what Plano is selling them for. This just for general info.

I also noticed several mentions of someone emailing sevice manuals for this engine to others. If this is not infringing copyright laws I'd love to have a copy, too, if whomever was doing the sending still is. Let me know and I'll PM you my address.

Thanks for a great forum and a great thread.

RVC


----------



## wobly

Hello, everyone. After reading through this thread, I have found a lot of great info.

If anyone has the service manual for the GCV160, I would appreciate it, too.

Thanks!


----------



## Lonestar245

*Bent cranks and Honda engines*

I am not professionally trained, but have been working with engines and machinery since I was a small child. Dad taught me to not be afraid to dig into things and see how they work. I still have that 2hp B&S powered edger mom bought back around 1964- the one I took apart just to see how it worked.

Moving forward- when we started seeing problems with our boats due to alcohol in the fuel, I realized there were going to be a lot of perfectly good mowers not starting the next spring. I started buying these and cleaning the carbs, then reselling them. It has been a fun hobby. Being as my own mower was a 1983 Honda HR214-SX I purchased new, and never had to service it beyond oil changes, I really started looking for Honda's with problems, and would go through them and resell them. I now hove a pretty good track record with them and realized a couple of things pertinent to this thread.

Obviously the GXV and GCV series are different engines. The GX is a commercial duty engine, whereas the GC is homeowner grade. This is why a crank for a GX cost so much more than the GC, as it is- for lack of a better description- more heavy duty. Other differences- GX is OHV, has ball bearings on both ends of the crank, and has a cast iron sleeve in the cylinder bore- and it will outlast most mower decks, save a few of the cast aluminum decks from Honda- or a Toro Commercial deck. The GC is OHC, bronze bearings on the crank, and no sleeved bore. 

As for Honda mowers with the GCV engine- these decks are simply average quality IMO- compared to other makes. They often rust out where the front wheels attach to the deck. I avoid these mowers as they are usually not worth repairing. However, the GCV engine makes a nice choice for re-powering a better deck, like a Snapper.

I am not sure replacing the crank on a GCV is worth the effort. Honda GCV engines are now found on a lot of mower brands- and are taking over the market. Often you can find a really cheap (broken) mower ($50 or less) on craigslist with a good GCV engine and just do an engine swap.

I have developed a few friends who do mower work. One has recently started straightening cranks on B&S engines. He simply hits it with a hammer till it straightens out. So far, he has not broken one block, and I have checked out the units and they seem to run fine- with no shake or visible bend in the crank. Not sure if a Honda, Robin, or Tecumseh will stand up to this. And if you try this at home and break the crankcase, please dont come crying to me. With an old B&S, or a GCV, it is probably worth the effort- as if you break the case, there are plenty of them around on cheap mowers. I wouldn't destroy a GXV by attempting this.

Last thing. I know the folks at Plano Power. I buy all my parts there, as they are just about 10 minutes away from me. They are good as gold- don't be afraid to buy anything from them.


----------



## 30yearTech

GCV crankshafts are not expensive (usually less then $40.00) replacement is easy for anyone with mechanical aptitude. 

Straightening a crankshaft with a hammer is stupid, and certainly reserved for the shade tree that does not care about his work or the consequences of it.

If it's worth doing at all, it's worth doing right!


----------



## genomower

This is my first posting on the Forum. I just wanted to thank all of you who posted on this thread, especially luciferX. I found a Honda mower with the gcv160 engine on Craigslist that looks very new, but has a bent crankshaft. Based on all the input on this thread, I bought it and have complete confidence that I will be able to fix it. I already have it apart thanks to the excellent instructions from luciferX and I have ordered the new crankshaft from Jack's Small Engines. I do have a question though, does anyone have the factory repair manual for the gcv160 that they share with me? I figure the more information I can get about the engine the better. Thanks again!


----------



## luciferX

The engine manuals are available for purchase from some authorized honda parts shops.

I wouldn't recommend to google it and assure you it is out there because that might get me in trouble.


----------



## skirk55

Hi everyone! This is my first post. I am a Honda Tech and this year I have replaced too many crankshafts on Honda rotary's that have hit tree roots. This week I have three cranks to replace. It takes me about 45 min. to change one now and the total cost is around $210. I have to say I am impressed with the information I have read.


----------



## usmcgrunt

*hONDA SERVICE MANUALS*

I found this to be an informative site for Honda engines.Hope this helps all that asked for a manual.
http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/welcome.html


----------



## Sammydog

*Wonderful post*

New to the site, 
Wonderful and thank for the extra effort it take to write-up and pictures to help the newbie's.


----------



## msk

LuciferX: Excellent writeup. Thanks very much. With your permission I will copy your writeup in Word file and add pictures to it and post it back here as a pdf file if OK with Admins. It will take me a week or so but I should be able to do it.

I recently replaced the Xenoy deck on my Honda HRM215HXA, since it has a blade brake, the bottom is a bit different. I don't know what model engine is on it.


----------



## luciferX

Thanks! I am really glad this continues to help folks.

I believe the site has the rights to all posts. It really is their call I think.

So long as you don't change anything to steer anyone wrong and don't try to make money on it, I'm ok with it.


----------



## msk

Thanks LuciferX. 

No (LOL), Money thought didn't even cross my mind. Just like you, I am trying to help folks out here and myself. I am about half done. All I am trying to do is to match each one of steps you wrote with the pictures you posted. I will send you a PM when it is done with a copy of the "How to" you wrote.

I have been very busy with work and could not devote enough time to this task. 

Thanks again
MSK


----------



## tramanh

*HEPL ME, PLZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzz*

I have a honda gcv 160 engine. It was running fine and just stopped while in use. I had put gas in a few minutes earlier, and thought bad gas may be the problem, but after draining and refilling, I cant get it to start. Checked engine oil, it may have been a bit low, so I topped it off. Tilted engine as I heard it may have a low oil pressure sensor that would reset after oil added (tilting may eliminate air).

I took plug out, cleaned it, replaced it still wont start. The engine has only been used about 3 hours. When I pull starter cord it pulls easily, and on first pull I hear a slight "backfire" (very slight).

Aside from taking to engine repair shop, any suggestions ?

__________________
La mutuelle familiale de France 
Devis mutuelle familiale des cheminots fr


----------



## 30yearTech

tramanh said:


> I have a honda gcv 160 engine. It was running fine and just stopped while in use. I had put gas in a few minutes earlier, and thought bad gas may be the problem, but after draining and refilling, I cant get it to start. Checked engine oil, it may have been a bit low, so I topped it off. Tilted engine as I heard it may have a low oil pressure sensor that would reset after oil added (tilting may eliminate air).
> 
> I took plug out, cleaned it, replaced it still wont start. The engine has only been used about 3 hours. When I pull starter cord it pulls easily, and on first pull I hear a slight "backfire" (very slight).
> 
> Aside from taking to engine repair shop, any suggestions ?
> 
> __________________
> La mutuelle familiale de France
> Devis mutuelle familiale des cheminots fr


Did you try a NEW spark plug?? If not then that's what I would try first. If that takes care of it, then check and make sure your air filter is not restricted and the choke is releasing when in the run position.


----------



## rufugly

*Wont start Fire shoots out of carb*

My honda mower will not start it pops and fire shoots out of carb. Could this be crankshaft position sensor or something else please help grass is GROWING


----------



## indypower

insatll a new Champion spark plug. Honda's are very finicky with spark plugs.


----------



## blufc3s

Hi everybody
Does anyone the torque reqd for the 8 bolts that hold the 2 casings, cyl head & oil pan, together on my Honda GCV160 mower engine. I searched but couldnt find it. Thanks in advance.
Stew


----------



## dmperdok

The torque is 9 ft. lb. or 108 in. lb.


----------



## rynogolfer30

Hi all, this is my first post on here.

I just finished replacing the crankshaft on my Honda GCV160. Took a while for it to fire up but it did and ran awesome. The only thing is I don't have any control over the throttle. It starts and stays at the same rpm, even after moving the throttle control. All the linkages were reassembled correctly with some help of the photos on here. Any help would be appericated.


----------



## 30yearTech

rynogolfer30 said:


> Hi all, this is my first post on here.
> 
> I just finished replacing the crankshaft on my Honda GCV160. Took a while for it to fire up but it did and ran awesome. The only thing is I don't have any control over the throttle. It starts and stays at the same rpm, even after moving the throttle control. All the linkages were reassembled correctly with some help of the photos on here. Any help would be appericated.


May need to perform a static governor adjustment. Also check the idle stop screw on the carburetor, may be set too high.


----------



## rynogolfer30

Where would I find the Idle Stop Screw?


----------



## 30yearTech

It's on the top of the carburetor accessed from the same side the fuel line attaches. You will need a fairly long phillips head screw drive to get to it.


----------



## Cranky

Hi Rynogolfer30, I did the same job on a GCV 190 and upon firing up, the RPM went out of control. What I would do is check, with the engine running, if you feel some resistance applied on the governor lever. If this lever feels the same as when the engine is off, then the problem is inside, with the centrifugal weights.


----------



## robmsz

ChadwickHugh said:


> Well no need to answer, I decided to try my luck, and it's running great. I turned it over by hand to check the cycle, and everything appeared to be correct just on a visual inspection. Bolted it up and it cranked on the first pull. I had to fiddle with the governor a bit to get it to run smooth, but it's working just like the day I bought it.
> 
> Thanks again guys. And hopefully the above photo will help someone out, and if you need a pict of the cylinder marking, I can get those too.


I was going to post a question on how to time my GC-190 but it was just answered.

Thanks Guys !

Great Forum! Keep on motoring!


----------



## cvb66

this thread hasn't been used in awhile, but I am hoping someone can enlighten me on this gc160 motor I have. pull up a seat, I'll tell ya what happened...
My dad gave me this pressure washer, said the engine didn't work, but i might could use the pump, on another pressure washer I got from Goodwill, $30.(engine runs -now-, pump is shot). Well I started looking at the motor, and thought maybe I can just fix this one. "break out the tools". I took it apart and found that the exhaust valve had sheered, so I looked online and found one, for 11 bucks, and i had to wait five days to get it. (not gonna happen) "break out the welder", I welded the valve, and re-seated it, got some decent compression, (dont have a compression tester). then I came here, and got some good info; but, and here is the jist of my problem, I am not getting any fire (new spark plug) I know the timing has to be set 20 degree's BTDC, but I think it is in the ignition modulator gap, which I can't find anywhere. When I break the case again tomorrow to clean the metal shavings from when I seated the exhause valve, (I did it with a drill, while the engine was assembled) hey, the valve is steel, the casing is aluminum... I am sure i have broken all kinds of "mechanic's rules" but I didn't have compression before and now I do. I will take some pictures tomorrow and post them. 
Sorry about the book, hope it wasn't to bad a read. 
thanks.


----------



## CERPOWERINSC

Some help is needed please.I have a GC160 on a generac pressure washer.I have checked to make sure there is spark and dropped a little gas in the cylinder to see if it is a fuel problem but it still wont crank.I did notice that when pulling the string it is extremely difficult.I took the spark plug back off and pulled and it freed up so what could be the problem?Could it be timing is off and valves arent releasing the pressure or what?
Thanks


----------



## 30yearTech

CERPOWERINSC said:


> Some help is needed please.I have a GC160 on a generac pressure washer.I have checked to make sure there is spark and dropped a little gas in the cylinder to see if it is a fuel problem but it still wont crank.I did notice that when pulling the string it is extremely difficult.I took the spark plug back off and pulled and it freed up so what could be the problem?Could it be timing is off and valves arent releasing the pressure or what?
> Thanks


I would pull the valve cover off and have a look at the valve operation, make sure the camshaft is turning and not broken and the timing belt is on. If all that looks good, then check the valve clearances on the intake and exhaust valves.


----------



## Choctaw Chuck

*Starting issue*



30yearTech said:


> Did you try a NEW spark plug?? If not then that's what I would try first. If that takes care of it, then check and make sure your air filter is not restricted and the choke is releasing when in the run position.


I also have a GCV160 that stopped in mid-operation. Changed gas, spark plug, checked kill switch, air filter is clean. I think it is not getting gas (plug is still dry after several pulls of start cord). How do I proceed with carb pull, etc. Would like to look at a repair manual. Does anyone have one I could get a copy of?
:thumbsup:


----------



## usmcgrunt

Here is a link to access the service manual and general Honda information.

http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/welcome.html


----------



## three_jeeps

*GCV-160 A1AE crankshaft replacement - what parts?*

Engine:GCV-160 A1AE
Stamping on engine case: GJAEA-1532446 A1AE

It has a bent crankshaft from my son attempting to cut down oak tree with it!
Engine stopped immediately, blade severely bent.

From my web searching I need the following p/n:
Crankshaft: 13310-ZM0-000
Thrust washer: 90402-ZL8-000

What additional parts might I need in addition to Hondabond 4 (for case gasket)?

Any seals? other parts? I figure as well as I am there, replace any potentially damaged parts (I would like to order everything at once).

I also would like a reference to properly align the cranshaft with valves, etc.

Thanks to luciferx for the great documentation!
-John


----------



## luciferX

*Parts needed*

I am really glad my mistake and recovery helped you. It feels great to give a little back to the great community here.

The honda bond is good stuff. It is what I used but it is sometimes tricky to find. You won't use nearly the tube and it will probably dry out long before you need it again. Careful not to use too much as the globs on the outside you'll see but the ones on the inside you won't. I probably used more than I should have.

I would recommend the oil seal at the bottom where the shaft exits the block. It has been a while since I looked at this but if the shaft bent, it could have done in that seal. Mine was ok but probably should've been done while I was in there. Your mileage may vary.

If the blade bent that badly, the shoe probably bent as well. I did have to replace that on mine. That should be obvious if you take a look.

As for alignment, the pictures show it all. It is easier than I expected and the notches are there to ensure everything gets done right.


----------



## three_jeeps

luciferX said:


> I am really glad my mistake and recovery helped you. It feels great to give a little back to the great community here.
> 
> The honda bond is good stuff. It is what I used but it is sometimes tricky to find. You won't use nearly the tube and it will probably dry out long before you need it again. Careful not to use too much as the globs on the outside you'll see but the ones on the inside you won't. I probably used more than I should have.
> 
> I would recommend the oil seal at the bottom where the shaft exits the block. It has been a while since I looked at this but if the shaft bent, it could have done in that seal. Mine was ok but probably should've been done while I was in there. Your mileage may vary.
> 
> If the blade bent that badly, the shoe probably bent as well. I did have to replace that on mine. That should be obvious if you take a look.
> 
> As for alignment, the pictures show it all. It is easier than I expected and the notches are there to ensure everything gets done right.


ok, got it. The p/n for hondabond is 08718-0004 superseeds previous part number:08718-0001

Is there a Permatex substitute? I've seen/heard about: "The Right Stuff for Imports" gasket maker #34311 (5 oz size).

TY again!
-J


----------



## 30yearTech

three_jeeps said:


> ok, got it. The p/n for hondabond is 08718-0004 superseeds previous part number:08718-0001
> 
> Is there a Permatex substitute? I've seen/heard about: "The Right Stuff for Imports" gasket maker #34311 (5 oz size).
> 
> TY again!
> -J


I have used high temp silicon sealant on these engines for years, and I have never had any issues with it.

This is what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U

and it works just fine, and it's available at many places!


----------



## dmovieman83

*First Post*

Ok, like most people over the last couple years I did the LuciferX crankshaft replacement job on my GCV160 (thank you luciferX; I had no hope without your instructions). Everything came apart great and I got the parts and everything seemed to go back together great, but I think I missed something in there or did something wrong and I hope someone can help. 

When I try to pull to start the engine it pulls a little ways and then stops. It is really difficult, but it can be slowly pulled around after that and makes a weird plunging sound. It is clearly not set up correctly, but I don't want to crack this thing open again if that is not necessary.

I figure it has to do with the piston position, timing, or something. LuciferX mentioned that if the piston came out of the cylinder that you would need to replace the compressor; I have no idea what the compressor is on this engine (please forgive my ignorance, I had hardly even looked at an engine before performing this operation). The compressor may be the problem since I think the piston may have come out of the cylinder slightly even though I was trying to be careful. It could just be the timing as I did not try to do anything with the timing and there is a good chance I messed that up. Any thoughts or help on the matter would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## 30yearTech

dmovieman83 said:


> Ok, like most people over the last couple years I did the LuciferX crankshaft replacement job on my GCV160 (thank you luciferX; I had no hope without your instructions). Everything came apart great and I got the parts and everything seemed to go back together great, but I think I missed something in there or did something wrong and I hope someone can help.
> 
> When I try to pull to start the engine it pulls a little ways and then stops. It is really difficult, but it can be slowly pulled around after that and makes a weird plunging sound. It is clearly not set up correctly, but I don't want to crack this thing open again if that is not necessary.
> 
> I figure it has to do with the piston position, timing, or something. LuciferX mentioned that if the piston came out of the cylinder that you would need to replace the compressor; I have no idea what the compressor is on this engine (please forgive my ignorance, I had hardly even looked at an engine before performing this operation). The compressor may be the problem since I think the piston may have come out of the cylinder slightly even though I was trying to be careful. It could just be the timing as I did not try to do anything with the timing and there is a good chance I messed that up. Any thoughts or help on the matter would be greatly appreciated.


There are a few things that could be the issue here.

If you did not set the timing when you reassembled the engine, then this is likely the issue. If the valve timing is way off, it's possible for the piston to hit the valves, and forcing the engine over can damage the valves. This would require a complete tear down to replace damaged valves. The valve timing can be reset without a complete tear down, as long as there is no valve damage.

Are you turning the engine over with the spark plug in it?

It kind of sounds like you may have oil up in the cylinder head causing excess compression. If it's hard to pull without the spark plug in place, then you could have installed the rod cap back on in the wrong orientation or over torqued the rod the rod cap.

I am pretty sure that LuciferX is referring to a Piston Ring Compressor to reinstall the piston, should it be removed from the cylinder. If your piston came out, you would have had a hard time reinstalling it.

Another possibility is if you spun the piston 180 degrees and reassembled, but if this were the case, I don't believe you would be able to crank the engine all the way around as the rod may contact the crankcase when turning.


----------



## dmovieman83

*Crankshaft replacement*

Thanks for the advice. I tried to keep everything in place when I put everything back, but the timing is what I will try first. Could you explain which way the flywheel should point in conjunction with the cam to be lined up? Do I simply pull the timing belt off and take the spark out while moving the two? I am certain that the rod cap went back on correctly as I triple checked the picture I took before detaching. Again, I apologize for seemingly stupid questions, but this is definitely a learning experience. If I were to determine according what you said that my valves were damaged what would I do then; or should I cross that bridge when I get there? Thanks for all the help.


----------



## 30yearTech

Take the spark plug out, using a probe such as a pencil or straw to determine top dead center (when the piston is at the top of it's travel). Once you have TDC, remove the timing belt from the camshaft and rotate the cam to align the timing marks with the top of the cylinder head (where the valve cover mounts). Reinstall the timing belt the timing should be set.

Cam Timing Image provided by LuciferX

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=130283&stc=1&d=1301798822and


----------



## dmovieman83

*Crankshaft replacement*

Wow, that actually sounds pretty easy. I will give it a try in the morning and let you know how it went. Thanks again.


----------



## dmovieman83

*Gcv160 timing*

Well, I worked on the mower for an hour or so this morning trying to get the timing right and no matter how I lined it up it seemed that it had a hard time turning past a certain point. Everything seemed to be aligned so I gave up and put everything back together. I decided it would be worth giving it a pull just for kicks and to my amazement it actually cranked first pull with very little effort just like it used to. I guess timing was the only thing wrong with it after I replaced the crankshaft. 

Thank you everyone for all of your help on this crankshaft replacement. I proved that anyone can do this if they just follow the directions from luciferx. I mowed my lawn today and have a working mower just in time. Thanks again.


----------



## luciferX

Thank you 30yeartech. You are, as always not just right but also fast on the response.
You da man!

I was talking piston rings but I think everyone understood what you were talking about. Glad things worked out!


----------



## three_jeeps

*gsv160 crank shaft replacement followup*

I replaced the crankshaft on my honda gsv160 engine over the weekend and things went OK, for the most part. Replaced crankshaft, and upper and lower seals as well. 

In the process of doing this, I moved the external arm on the governor, and I don't know how to realign/reset it. Can someone explain how to do the adjustment? Looking at the side of the engine, with the carb on the LHS and the govenor arm on the RHS, the govenor arm rotated forward, towards the carb (i.e. it rotated CCW). I know it needs to be repositioned (rotated cw) but I don't know how much, and more importantly, if the internal arm should be positioned to when it is touching the govenor gear assembly or if it should be as far away as possible.

Thanks for any help....much appreciated.

-John


----------



## usmcgrunt

Here is a link describing how to do the static governor adjustment.Hope this helps.

http://www.perr.com/tip5.html


----------



## Brushogg

Does the curved lip on the thrust washer 
face down or up?


----------



## three_jeeps

Brushogg said:


> Does the curved lip on the thrust washer
> face down or up?


The thrust washer curved lip faces down toward the bottom of the engine case where the crankshaft exits.

There are pictures of an engine in various stages of disassembly earlier in this thread, compliments of Luciferx that, I believe, shows this.

Good luck
John


----------



## Brushogg

John,

thank you. 

I replaced the crank about a month ago (runs great) and was not sure about the thrust washer.
I placed the lip down.

Looked at most of the pictures but didn't see that one.

Thanks again,
Steve


----------



## three_jeeps

Brushogg said:


> John,
> 
> thank you.
> 
> I replaced the crank about a month ago (runs great) and was not sure about the thrust washer.
> I placed the lip down.
> 
> Looked at most of the pictures but didn't see that one.
> 
> Thanks again,
> Steve


You are welcome!

Look on page 3, set 3, image 1600. It will confirm what I said.

-JOhn


----------



## Minister956

I'm going to attempt this tomorrow..gulp. 

ruben


----------



## 30yearTech

Minister956 said:


> I'm going to attempt this tomorrow..gulp.
> 
> ruben


Hi Ruben,
Welcome to hobbytalk, if you have any questions on your repairs just ask, someone on here or myself will try and help. Take your time, perhaps take some pictures for reference and it should all work out.

Best of Luck...:thumbsup:


----------



## Minister956

Thanks 3YT,

MODEL#HRR2162SDA also known as (HRR216KSDAA)
SERIAL#MZCG-6995691

This will be my first tear down of a motor. I think with the instructions Luci gives I should be alright. And definitely lots of pics. 
I 'll have my two sons 14 and 18 helping me or should I say doing all the wrenching.i was telling my wife these kids can't even identify a crescent wrench. Sad, and it's my fault. Oh well they are about to get a crash course haha.

ruben


----------



## Minister956

We're done, and the kids are more mechanically inclined than I expected. Thanks to this thread it wasn't difficult.

Ruben


----------



## 30yearTech

Glad to hear you were successful without any problems. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## rdtrainrider

*Honda GCV160 rebuild help*

Does anyone have access to a Shop Manual for the Honda GCV160 engine. Have mine torn down but need the exacting info to reassemble it. Great older mower that I am replacing the crank, cleaning and rebuilding. Need to cut my grass!

rdtrainrider


----------



## 30yearTech

My mistake! posted in the wrong thread!


----------



## kli1963

*GCV160 Cam Belt*

Does anyone have a part # for the cam belt?http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/images/smilies/confused.gif


----------



## 30yearTech

Without the serial number I can't be absolutely sure that this is the correct part number, but I think they all use the same belt.

14400-Z0J-014 BELT, TIMING (84HU7 G-200)

Best of Luck... :thumbsup:


----------



## kli1963

*Thanks*

That was the part #. I tore into it today and the belt was broken and wraped around the shaft. The part # of all things is where it broke. I was able to read the last three digits, and it was -014. The online parts breakdown listed four different belt and that was the only one with the -014. I ordered one on-line for under $11. Thanks for the help.


----------



## asw27bv

*Connecting rod clearance*

Have torn down the GC160 and found the connecting rod broken. Everything else looks OK. Ordered a new rod from Tulsa Engine Warehouse. The problem is that the end that goes on the crank seems too small. When I tighten the bolts to the indicated 9ft/lbs the crank cannot turn at all. I miked the parts and the crank shows as 1.025" (26.035mm) and the ID of the rod end is 1.020" (25.908mm) Obviously no clearance. Am I missing something or was the part I got defective. Info I can find says that the rod end should be about .0015 -.0017" larger than crank.

Any suggestions appreciated.

DVM
1st time for a honda gc160, but have torn down a rebuilt a few engines over the years.


----------



## 30yearTech

asw27bv said:


> Have torn down the GC160 and found the connecting rod broken. Everything else looks OK. Ordered a new rod from Tulsa Engine Warehouse. The problem is that the end that goes on the crank seems too small. When I tighten the bolts to the indicated 9ft/lbs the crank cannot turn at all. I miked the parts and the crank shows as 1.025" (26.035mm) and the ID of the rod end is 1.020" (25.908mm) Obviously no clearance. Am I missing something or was the part I got defective. Info I can find says that the rod end should be about .0015 -.0017" larger than crank.
> 
> Any suggestions appreciated.
> 
> DVM
> 1st time for a honda gc160, but have torn down a rebuilt a few engines over the years.


post the model and serial number of your engine and the part number for the connecting rod you received.


----------



## asw27bv

*connection rod clearance*

Model of the GC 160 is QHA serial number is GCAHA-1131286

The part # for the connecting rod is 13200-ZL8-000. The new rod is from Yamakoyo and is supposed to match the number above.

DVM


----------



## 30yearTech

asw27bv said:


> Model of the GC 160 is QHA serial number is GCAHA-1131286
> 
> The part # for the connecting rod is 13200-ZL8-000. The new rod is from Yamakoyo and is supposed to match the number above.
> 
> DVM


I am not familiar with Yamakoyo brand parts, but it sounds like your connecting rod does not have the correct specs for your engine. make sure there is no metal transfer to the crank pin journal and that it's good and clean. Otherwise I would have to recommend an oem rod.


----------



## asw27bv

*GC 160 back together and running but hunts*

I ended up gettting a new connecting rod and crankshaft from Heartland Honda. Good service and reasonable price. Parts are all installed and all back together. It runs but the speed varies up and down. Will try adjusting the govener arm and then carb.

DVM


----------



## TGTY

*Hello all*

I have a Honda lawnmower GCV160, blades got hit against steel water cover pipe. Would like pictures of how to replace a crankshaft. Blades are bent. I don't know how or what to look for in a bent shaft. I'm not familiar with name of parts. Please help me. Thank you much.


----------



## asw27bv

Check out the excellent description and pictures on page 2 and 3 of this thread.

ASW27 BV


----------



## asw27bv

Check out the excellent instructions and pictures on page 2 and 3 of this thread.


----------



## solohr

*LuciferX crankshaft replacement*

I am new to this forum. I need some help. Several posts talk about luciferX's crankshaft replacement instructions, but I cannot find the link to access them. Can someone help me? I have a GCV160A that needs a new crankshaft. I have ordered a new crank and seals. Thanks!


----------



## 30yearTech

solohr said:


> I am new to this forum. I need some help. Several posts talk about luciferX's crankshaft replacement instructions, but I cannot find the link to access them. Can someone help me? I have a GCV160A that needs a new crankshaft. I have ordered a new crank and seals. Thanks!


*This is the thread* with all the info on crankshafts and timing for this engine!

Go back to the beginning and start reading. liciferX's post start I think on page 2, and there are pictures as well.


----------



## solohr

*GCV 160 Crankshaft Replacement*

Thanks. I found the LuciferX instructions for replacing the GCV 160 crankshaft. I followed it step by step and everything works perfectly!!! It started on second pull and runs smooth, but will only run on what I would call the choke position. If I try to adjust the throttle, it dies every time. I checked all of the obvious things. (springs, governor, etc.) I even took the carb off and completely cleaned it. Nothing I do makes a difference. It runs great, but only on the choke setting. Any ideas?


----------



## usmcgrunt

solohr said:


> Thanks. I found the LuciferX instructions for replacing the GCV 160 crankshaft. I followed it step by step and everything works perfectly!!! It started on second pull and runs smooth, but will only run on what I would call the choke position. If I try to adjust the throttle, it dies every time. I checked all of the obvious things. (springs, governor, etc.) I even took the carb off and completely cleaned it. Nothing I do makes a difference. It runs great, but only on the choke setting. Any ideas?


There are three gaskets between the carb and the engine.If any one is not oriented in the correct position,you can experience the problem your having.Remove the carb again and check that all the holes line up correctly when the gaskets are installed.


----------



## solohr

*GCV 160 Crankshaft Replacement*

I visited the Honda dealer and got the new gaskets. Took the old ones off, cleaned everything and very carefully re-installed carb/gaskets, etc. It still runs the same...no change? It starts right up and runs smooth when kept in the choke position, but if I move the throttle, it dies. I re-checked all of the springs and linkages, including the governor. I even removed the governor and re-installed it twice (worth a try), but still no change. I even compared it to my other Honda mower with the same engine. Everything looks to be set up the same. Anybody have an ideas????


----------



## 30yearTech

Main jet or nozzle has a restriction. When you cleaned out your carburetor, did you remove the main jet and nozzle and inspect?


----------



## Newbie girl

This came in super handy for my husband and I. He thought the mark was punched on the gear too so this was perfect confirmation we needed that he had it lined up correctly. This has been an incredible resource and I really appreciate the labor of love explaining step by step and documenting photos and everything. I know that alone took some serious time. Thank you again!


----------



## solohr

*GCV 160 Crankshaft Replacement*

30YearTech, thanks a lot for your help. I checked for a restriction in the fuel nozzle as you suggested and it appeared clear. However, after bolting the carb back on for the 4th time (yes...its embarrassing), it now runs like a champ. In fact, I think it runs better than the new one I bought last year. Thanks again......


----------



## geogrubb

This link started in 2006, really folks.
I really think it is time for someone to turn this into a new link or whatever, Not that I really care, however there are those that would prefer not to look through 150 posts of something that is unrelated.....just to find it's unrelated. Have a good one. Geo


----------



## luciferX

*Glad to help*



Newbie girl said:


> This came in super handy for my husband and I. He thought the mark was punched on the gear too so this was perfect confirmation we needed that he had it lined up correctly. This has been an incredible resource and I really appreciate the labor of love explaining step by step and documenting photos and everything. I know that alone took some serious time. Thank you again!


I am glad my mistake (bending the crank) and documented recovery has helped. It was a fun project I put off for way too long fearing it would be more difficult than it turned out to be.


----------



## zeblis

*Very Grateful!*

@luciferX, Thanks for the detailed teardown and rebuild. I just finished, and she's running smooooth! Very much appreciated.


----------



## bulldwgs

Hello,

I have read the entire thread. Hard to believe it goes back so many years. I have a Karcher Power Washer with the Honda GCV160. I was power washing today ran out of gas and of course the motor stopped. Refilled the tank went in the house for about an hour came back at it refused to start.

I have drained all the gas and replaced, tried a new spark plug, sprayed starter spray / lubricant in spark plug hole, took carb off and checked for blockages, cleaned all linkage, spray cleaner in carb, tried with choked on, tried with choke off, there is no priming ball. Fuel know is set in on position as well as the shut off switch.

Please any advice or help would be great.... The machine is 7 years old and I use it about twice a year.

Thanks,

Don


----------



## 30yearTech

bulldwgs said:


> Hello,
> 
> I have read the entire thread. Hard to believe it goes back so many years. I have a Karcher Power Washer with the Honda GCV160. I was power washing today ran out of gas and of course the motor stopped. Refilled the tank went in the house for about an hour came back at it refused to start.
> 
> I have drained all the gas and replaced, tried a new spark plug, sprayed starter spray / lubricant in spark plug hole, took carb off and checked for blockages, cleaned all linkage, spray cleaner in carb, tried with choked on, tried with choke off, there is no priming ball. Fuel know is set in on position as well as the shut off switch.
> 
> Please any advice or help would be great.... The machine is 7 years old and I use it about twice a year.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Don


One of the easiest things to try is a new spark plug. You should also check to make sure you are getting spark. Since you tried priming, I would suspect either a bad plug or no spark. It could also be a few other things, but since it was running these are the first things I would check. Let us know what you find.


----------



## bulldwgs

30yearTech said:


> One of the easiest things to try is a new spark plug. You should also check to make sure you are getting spark. Since you tried priming, I would suspect either a bad plug or no spark. It could also be a few other things, but since it was running these are the first things I would check. Let us know what you find.


Hello Sir,

Thank you. for the quick reply.

I did try a new plug and still nothing.

How do you check for a spark? Also there is NO priming ball on this engine, how would you prime?

Thanks Don


----------



## 30yearTech

To test for spark, remove the spark plug and ground to a metal part of engine, with the switch in the on position, pull the rope and observe plug to see if spark jumps the gap on the electrode. 

To prime, remove the air filter cover and element and pour about a teaspoon of fuel in the throat of the carburetor and see if the engine will start. (Need to reinstall the spark plug of course).


----------



## oldstuff

Many thanks for this thread. I was able to fix my neighbor's mower with the info here and another website. With my neighbor's mower I had spark but no fire, checked compression-had none. Eventually removed the ohc cover to check valve operation and found the belt loose from the gear. Put belt on and got mower to pop(fire)but it was out of time.

Here is what worked for me:

1. Remove the spark plug, pull starter and gas tank.

2. un-brake the flywheel by securing the bail to mower's handle.

3. Find timing arrow on top of flywheel at outer edge(not the puller marks).

4. Facing the spark plug hole, note the 3 mounting posts for gas tank and pull starter. The post nearest the spark plug will be number 1, clockwise the next post is number 2, and the next post is number 3.

5. Turn flywheel so timing arrow points to post number 2.

6. Turn valve gear so the 2 timing marks on underside of gear line up parallel to engine block as shown on page 2, post #24 of this thread.

7. Double check the alignments made above and put belt back on gear.

8. Button it all back up and you're good to go.

Note: another pic of the valve gear timing marks using arrows instead of circles might be clearer. (I should've taken one)

-Chuck


----------



## JoeRavens

*Valve guide/seals*

Hello guys, been stumbling around the net trying to find info on how to remove and replace the valve guides/seals on a Honda GCV160 engine from a lawn mower.

Had a mower that was pretty much brand new, but had been in the garage for about two years. Started using it this season, and after about two months of use it started belching out an un-godly amount of smoke. Managed to trace the fault back to the exhaust valve, and have found somewhere to get the parts, but cannot for the life me work out how to remove the valve guides!

Has anyone here had any experience in such a task? You will save me ripping out a lot of hair! :freak:

-Joe


----------



## 30yearTech

JoeRavens said:


> Hello guys, been stumbling around the net trying to find info on how to remove and replace the valve guides/seals on a Honda GCV160 engine from a lawn mower.
> 
> Had a mower that was pretty much brand new, but had been in the garage for about two years. Started using it this season, and after about two months of use it started belching out an un-godly amount of smoke. Managed to trace the fault back to the exhaust valve, and have found somewhere to get the parts, but cannot for the life me work out how to remove the *valve guides*!
> 
> Has anyone here had any experience in such a task? You will save me ripping out a lot of hair! :freak:
> 
> -Joe


The valve guides on GCV160 engines are not replaceable and are cast into the cylinder head. If you want to replace the valve stem seal, you will need to remove the valve spring keeper and spring to gain access to the seal. Placing the piston at TDC should be enough to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder, but filling the cylinder with compressed air will hold the valve closed while you replace the seal and prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder and requiring an engine tear down.


----------



## JoeRavens

Thanks for the advice, that certainly makes a lot of sense! I'll get down the garage and start tinkering now 

Cheers for the help!


----------



## duckbill

I need some help identifying which crankshaft to get. It a GCV160 Honda mower with GJAEA-6525083 MU4 stamped above the oil fill port. I've looked and looked and I cannot find what type of engine this is which really dictates the cost of the crank from $160 to $30. If it's $160 I'll just throw away the engine and buy a new one for $200. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Thank you


----------



## luciferX

I think GJAEA-6525083 says it all. I think GJAEA is the motor and 6525083 is your unit number.
There appears to be a few variations though. There are types A2A, A2R, STA1, S1A1, R3A1, A3A and others. I haven't seen MU4 (or anything that begins with an M) as one of them but that doesn't mean much. See if any of these codes appear near your stamping.

These list the crank as being one of these:
13310-ZM0-600
13310-Z0L-V70
06131-Z8B-W00
06131-Z8B-W20
all between $25 and $35

I'd recommend ordering from a specialist and they should help you get the right part. 

One thing you can do is look at the diagrams and use a micrometer to measure your old part. The diagram is shown on just about every part supplier and calls out the tail length.

Wish I could do more but I am not a Honda specialist and don't have the whole tech library. Hopefully someone here will chime in.


----------



## wyomarty

*GCV160 Issues*

Hello, I have a Husqvarna 700 with about 25 hours that started making terrible noise especially under a load. It started recently and there was no impact of any kind. If I pull the blade off it runs smooth and quiet but returns once the blade is reinstalled. While running with the blade off the shaft appears to be running true. I replaced the blade thinking that it was somehow out of balance but this didn't resolve the issue. The blade does not hit the deck or appear to be loose or have any play. I also pulled the top off and checked the key in the flywheel which appears to be fine as well. Any help or input would be appreciated!


----------



## Emil

*Gcv 160*

Hi, guys,
I am new here and The English Language is not my mother language. May I ask you a simple question? What the acronym "pto" stands for? Thank you and greetings from Slovakia.


----------



## Milton Fox Racing

Welcome to the boards emil. :wave:

As I understand it PTO stands for Power Take Off in the small motor world. You can think of it as drive shaft in the simplest terms. :cheers2:


----------



## air

Hi all, I have a less than 6 months Husqvarna LC221RH Mower with Honda Engine and hit a stump which appears to have cracked the adapter stem and slightly bent the crankshaft. Hopefully, it is just the crankshaft that I have to replace so wanted to get check from others before I start ordering parts and undertake this repair.

Honda GCV160 with label showing "GCV160LA0 S3B NH1" and "GJARA 9152443". Not sure what the NH1 means as I can only find GCV160LAO and GJARA readily on the internet.

From searching online for parts diagrams for my motor, I believe I need these parts but unsure on the thrust washer as there are two part numbers(90402-Z0Y-000 and 90402-ZL8-00010) but most sites only list 90402-ZL8-00010 for my motor. Can someone verify if I've got the right part numbers and which thrust washer?

13311-Z8B-900 CRANKSHAFT
13621-Z8B-900 PULLEY, TIMING BELT DRIVE
90402-Z0Y-000 WASHER, THRUST 

As for tools, it looks like I need to go buy a strap wrench, puller and high temp silicone gasket. Anything else I miss?

Thanks!


----------



## paulr44

Welcome. in the future, please create a new thread when starting a new subject.

I have attached the crank full IPL which indicates by S/N which thrust washer your engine calls for.
However, I doubt either it or the timing belt are damaged. But since you'll be in there, won't hurt to change them.
When changing a crank or pulling a sump, it's customary to replace the PTO seal. I pasted info. into the IPL
screenshot about the seal from the repair manual.

I advise you do two things:

1. Invest in the GCV repair manual, you'll need torque specs. and possibly assembly info. like for timing.
2. DO NOT skimp on sealant, use Hondabond HT liquid gasket (ThreeBond 1216) or equivalent. Else it'll probably leak.


----------

