# My In Progress Polar Lights 1/350 Scale TOS USS ENTERPRISE Photos



## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Here are a few in progress pics of my Polar lights TOS Enterprise kit.
The pictures are a little dark, But hopefully the next set of pics will turn out better as this build progresses.

The Bussard collector domes were both frosted using Testors Dull Coat spray, While the outer domes were frosted on the insides via some fine sandpaper & Dull coat.

The outsides of the domes remain their original clear plastic.
The nacell fans were hand brushed to the domes using Testors Metallic silver & A second coating of Testors dull coat applied.

I'm reading that some people had trouble with the Testors dull Coat turning yellow over time, But i have used it on various builds for years, And no problems.

For now, I have only applied Tamiya fine Gray primer to the various kit pieces, And some time this week will apply the actual hull color.

I managed to sand that slightly rough texture from both top and bottom of the saucer sections, And they now have a nice smooth texture for laying on the final finish, And decal application.

I also glued in the top B/C deck to the Top of the Saucer, And applied some Tamiya basic putty to the couple of minor seamlines & Sanded/Reprimed as needed.

I dry fitted some of the White windows & Lights to the top saucer section and checked for any light leaks, And it looks pretty good..But the bottom saucer still needs a bit of attention where i scraped away the paint for the eventual intsallation of the windows.

I kind of like those white windows, & May use those along with a few of the black windows mixed in with the addition of some matt black paint applied to the back of the windows to eliminate any possible light bleed.

As it is, The Bridge is only taped inside with masking tap, And i still need to add a little more detailing. 

The decals went on with no problems and are already sealed in with Testors dull coat.

Will include better pictures as this build progresses and have some of the lighting kit installed hopefully next week.:thumbsup:

Let me know if any problems with photo link.




http://s762.photobucket.com/user/beamer671beamer66/library/?src=pb_unauth#sthash.jD1WNevk.ejhh


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice looking progress so far. One suggestion, if you haven't glued the lower saucer dome in place yet, take some of that thin foam packing material from the kit and lay some in behind the dome between it dome and the LED bulb. It will help diffuse the light and prevent having an off-center hot spot show up on the dome.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Trekkriffic said:


> Nice looking progress so far. One suggestion, if you haven't glued the lower saucer dome in place yet, take some of that thin foam packing material from the kit and lay some in behind the dome between it dome and the LED bulb. It will help diffuse the light and prevent having an off-center hot spot show up on the dome.


Thanks for the kind words. No i haven't glued that dome in yet.
I'll wait to glue in permanent after final coat of hull color is applied.

Will try out your suggestions regarding that foam as progress continues.
Meantime,
I'll remove the bridge and try to get some clearer photos of the detailing/Decal work in a bit.:dude:


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Off to a great start!


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

As a side note, I really was going to go with the clear windows included in the kit, But after experimenting with those white parts i'm leaning towards using them for most of this build.

Anyone else use them? Trekkriffic, I believe i read that you used them in your build?
I think they also come close to what was used in the actuall 11 Ft. filming miniuture.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

spocks beard said:


> As a side note, I really was going to go with the clear windows included in the kit, But after experimenting with those white parts i'm leaning towards using them for most of this build.
> 
> Anyone else use them? Trekkriffic, I believe i read that you used them in your build?
> I think they also come close to what was used in the actuall 11 Ft. filming miniuture.


Yes. I used the translucent white and the black smoked windows. I also used the white domes for the saucer and the aft beacon atop the shuttle bay. For light blocking, I backed the black windows with strips of chrome adhesive backed Monokote Trim Sheet I got at my LHS.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Excellent idea regarding the backing, But wouldn't a couple of coats of flat black spray appied to the back of those strips of black smoked windows properly block any light leak?

Here are a few more shots of my semi finished bridge.
Still a little more detailing to do, But not going all out on it as it looks fairly nice to me as it is.
Actually that bridge floor is two toned gray, But it's not showing up in the pics.

The outer area of the bridge is darker than the inner command section.

Besides filling any gaps around that B/C deck with putty, I also filled in the underside as well and added a coating of black followed by white enamal for added protection.

No noticable light leaks.
I hope to get a lot more finished come this weekend, So look for more photo's soon, And thanks guys for the positive comments/Suggestions:dude:

My photo link below

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/deuce882/library/?sort=3&page=1


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

spocks beard said:


> Excellent idea regarding the backing, But wouldn't a couple of coats of flat black spray applied to the back of those strips of black smoked windows properly block any light leak?


Yes, paint would work too but the inserts sometimes don't sit perfectly flush along the edges which would allow light to "leak in" around the edges of the backing plate. I took the Monokote strips and overlapped the edge of the backing plate. I'd lay the strip down loosely over the backing plate at first then burnish it down tight all around the edge. So there's no way any light could sneak in. The tape also is added insurance in case whatever glue you are using to attach the windows ever lets go; the tape would help keep it in place. For this reason, I even placed the Monokote around the margins of the white inserts; not covering the window openings of course. Lastly, the chrome color helps to reflect and spread light around the interior of the hull which black paint would not do. If I were to paint the inserts I would use black _Tulip_ fabric paint. Michaels carries it but any fabric/craft store should have it. Steve Neill turned me on to it and that stuff is thick, dries fast, cleans up with water and is the best paint for filling small seam gaps and general light blocking.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I'm struggling with the window options on my build. My goal is to have the windows completely seamless, i.e. no gaps around them and they should be flush with the hull piece. That is proving to be nigh impossible in some areas, so I was going to go with the clear pieces and then cover up the gaps with clear resin (sanding smooth). I would then be forced to use window masks ala Aztec Dummy or Orbital Drydock.

But I like the look of the white inserts when not lit; I haven't yet seen what they look like lit in person, which makes all the difference. I guess I'll just have to experiment but I'm stuck until this is resolved (all that's left is to paint the hull halves, insert the windows, cover gaps with clear resin, sand smooth, mask windows, glue hull halves and touch up seams. Easy peasy).


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

RossW said:


> I'm struggling with the window options on my build. My goal is to have the windows completely seamless, i.e. no gaps around them and they should be flush with the hull piece. That is proving to be nigh impossible in some areas, so I was going to go with the clear pieces and then cover up the gaps with clear resin (sanding smooth). I would then be forced to use window masks ala Aztec Dummy or Orbital Drydock.
> 
> But I like the look of the white inserts when not lit; I haven't yet seen what they look like lit in person, which makes all the difference. I guess I'll just have to experiment but I'm stuck until this is resolved (all that's left is to paint the hull halves, insert the windows, cover gaps with clear resin, sand smooth, mask windows, glue hull halves and touch up seams. Easy peasy).


Yep, Sure enough, Some of my window inserts have some tiny gaps at the top half of the window frames.

Not really noticeable, But if lit up they may be.
If i were going with the clear windows maby using that Testors clear parts cement & Window maker would work.(I have never tried it on any other builds)

With the milky white inserts the clear parts cement still may be of use.
After it dries, It may be paintable with some white enamal thinly brushed behind surface.

RossW, If you want to see what those white windows look like with some light behind them, I have a couple pics posted in my first link showing the B/C deck windows held up to a bright light.

They have some small gaps at the tops as well, But not really noticeable.

Those black windows are another story, And will need to be fully blacked out, Possably With that clear window making cement as well? Then black enamal applied to the back.

I lost all of my local Hobby shops, And Micheal's is the only store within driving range so may check them out for ideas.

I'll figure something out, And good luck to you with your build!:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> I'm struggling with the window options on my build. My goal is to have the windows completely seamless, i.e. no gaps around them and they should be flush with the hull piece. Easy peasy).


On my build I noticed some of the windows were deeply recessed; especially the ones on B-C deck which also had large gaps at the top of the frame. I ended up brushing some Micro Krystal Klear into the frame and then inserting a piece of clear thin styrene trimmed to fit the opening. Here's a before and after of the B-C deck windows:

Before:

IMG_4825 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Cutting thin clear styrene sheet for window panes:

IMG_4836 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Inserting the clear window pane:

IMG_4834 by trekriffic, on Flickr

After:

IMG_4846 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Dorsal windows after inserting clear panes:

IMG_4847 by trekriffic, on Flickr


IMG_4946 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Lower saucer:

IMG_4853 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here's a pic in low light of the windows lit up. I used the translucent white windows:

IMG_4863 by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Thanks again for the suggestions regarding those windows Trekkriffic.
That last low lighting pic complementing the white window inserts is a very nice shot.:thumbsup:

HeHee, There looks to even be some of the crew looking out of the windows.:tongue:

Any plans to eventually put the model in a case for protection?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

The crew silhouettes you see are "shadow casters" included with the ParaGrafix PE set. They are printed on velum with a white background and can be trimmed to fit the window opening. I glued them in with Krystal Klear and then inserted the thin clear styrene "window pane" with tweezers on top of them. One thing I forgot to mention, once the glue dries, if there are still any small gaps between the "pane" and the frame, you can mix up some AVES Apoxy Sculpt and fill the gaps. The AVES is a light grey color and matches the light grey of the hull paint so you don't need to paint it. Just smooth it into the gap with a moistened microbrush or (or you can use a toothpick followed by a q-tip-I think I even used my fingertip) and remove any excess with the q-tip and/or a soft cloth. You won't be able to tell there is any putty there when you're done.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Spocks 
I followed Treks suggestion for the windows on the B/C deck and the technique fills the gaps. I also encounter "staring" around some of the windows (mostly around the secondary hull). By using hot glue or Goop around the window on the inside of the model, it really helps with the pesky light leaks. If you are not pass this point, take the time to fit all of the windows so they seat nearly flush with the model surface. In review of how I built my saucer / hull, it would have saved a lot of time and redo(s) doing something this simple.

When applying canopy glue or Krystal Clear to windows, it tends to dry in a concave fashion around the frame. Since my Enterprise is the standard of learning the hard way, it's important to go slow and get the windows as flush as possible to avoid this problem. Once you hit the model with clear lacquer it's really going to magnify any issues around the windows.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

stryker said:


> When applying canopy glue or Krystal Clear to windows, it tends to dry in a concave fashion around the frame


That's one of the reasons I went with the bits of clear styrene window panes on top of the Krystal Klear. You end up with a flat clear window surface.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

stryker said:


> Spocks
> I followed Treks suggestion for the windows on the B/C deck and the technique fills the gaps. I also encounter "staring" around some of the windows (mostly around the secondary hull). By using hot glue or Goop around the window on the inside of the model, it really helps with the pesky light leaks. If you are not pass this point, take the time to fit all of the windows so they seat nearly flush with the model surface. In review of how I built my saucer / hull, it would have saved a lot of time and redo(s) doing something this simple.
> 
> When applying canopy glue or Krystal Clear to windows, it tends to dry in a concave fashion around the frame. Since my Enterprise is the standard of learning the hard way, it's important to go slow and get the windows as flush as possible to avoid this problem. Once you hit the model with clear lacquer it's really going to magnify any issues around the windows.


Hi, I'm really working at a snail's pace with this kit as time permits..And should be appying the primary hull color this weekend, When the paint cures up to handle i'll be checking all window fit throughout the entire model to see just how many pesky window gaps there are throughout. (I haven't glued in any windows yet)

But i'm glad i'll be getting this far this weekend. Hopefully won't be much longer until i can dig into this lighting kit. 

If possible, I'll post a few updated pics. :thumbsup:


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Look forward to viewing'em!


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Here are some updated pics.
I just finished applying the primary hull color to my model.

I used Tamiya Light Gray AS-18 spray, And it turned out gtreat.
It doesn't show in the pics, But it the paint actually has a slight green tint to it.

Will let the parts dry over night, Then i'll start on the windows probably sometime tomorrow.

Hopefully as time permits, I can get some lighting installed next week.
Stay tuned.:dude:

Photo link below

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/deuce882/library/Polar Lights Enterprise


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

I installed the lights in the Bussard domes today.
I tested them, And they work great with actually no real overwhelming noise.

There is a faint gear noise in the left engine due to the polarity being reversed in order to get it to rotate counter clock wise.
(I can deal with it)

I have posted another link below showing the domes as they light and spin.
It is a very cool effect, But i'm currently thinking about frosting that outer dome as well to cut back on some of the extra glare.

I already frosted Colored plastic pieces, the engine fan dome, And behind the outer Bussard dome, But as these lights are still very bright.. I may go ahead and do the outsides as well with some dullcoat.


Has anyone else had to frost both the inner & Outer sides of those outer domes?

I think i will keep going as i have the time, And start rigging the lighting in the bottom saucer section.

All comments welcome, And enjoy these couple of new pics. :thumbsup:
New link below.

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/deuce882/library/Enterprise Bussard Dome Test


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

spocks beard said:


> Has anyone else had to frost both the inner & Outer sides of those outer domes?


On my build I coated the inside of the spinner dome with Tamiya transparent orange acrylic then Dullcoted the outside. For the outer dome I coated the inside with Floquil flat base (it dries leaving a translucent milky coating). I then sprayed the exterior of the bussard domes with Dullcote.

Here it is with the motor on:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9374353754/


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

I'm doing the same thing as Trekriffic and it looks really great on and off. But I'm leaving the outside of the dome glossy. It seems like that's the case with, at least, the restored model. Plus I just like a little gloss with all the matte on the rest of the ship.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

I followed Mark and Trek's lead. I did not paint the transparent orange but might consider on a future build.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

I didn't want to add any further Amber coloring to the lights, Even though it would just be a clear coat.


I did frost the outsides of the Bussard domes & They look pretty close to what i wanted.

To me anyway, It looks like what i saw on tv.


http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx36/deuce882/Picture390_zps23172721.jpg

Unfortunately the pictures are not picking up the other colors,And the colors are alot more vibrant in person.
But you get the idea.

I just finished up with lighting the bottom saucer section as well as installing the windows.

Also finished glueing in the windows of both halves of the secondary hull, And will post more progress pics sometime this week.

One thing i noticed is that most of those LED lights with the backing tape are not marked with positive/Negative
That's always nice, But so far everything is lighting up as i go along.

Will post more progress pics sometime this week. Live Long And Prosper.:thumbsup:


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Greetings.
I had some time today to resume a bit more work on my Enterprise kit, So am posting another progress link with a few current photos.

I did some more detailing of the Bussard collector sections.
Please note the outer bussard domes are not inserted fully as i'll be removing them untill the actuall installation to the main Engine Nacelles.

I finished installing the window inserts, And wiring to the secondary hull, And dry fitted both halves together to check for light leaks, And so far nothing major to worry about.

Man you guys weren't kidding about the tight squeeze of that hanger deck after the lighting is installed back there let me tell you.:drunk:

Without the lights it JUST fits without issue, So i have a very small gap running from the spine lights to the end of the tail section,That should just about be totally closed when i finally seal the hull up.(With the help of a large Irwin clamp & Thick tube glue.

I also glued the Nacelle Pylon's together and did my first round of putty application, And finished the lighting the lower saucer section.

So far all the lighting functions properly as it should, And i'm hoping that after i finally get this thing all sealed up that they stay that way

So far this doesn't seem to look like much progress, But for anyone that has attempted to add the lighting kit it is pretty time consuming. For me anyway.

Sorry about any distracting things in the background, This isn't an attempt to advertise drums or stereo equiptment..But as i do not have much room to work on this kit, My music room doubles as my work space as well..Excepting any major painting.

For anyone following this thread, Thanks for looking and all comments welcome. 
Will continue posting my progress on this build as time permits.:thumbsup:

Current photo link below.

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/deuce882/library/Polar Lights Enterprise progress


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

spocks beard said:


> That should just about be totally closed when I finally seal the hull up with the help of a large Irwin clamp & Thick tube glue.


Be careful when clamping that you don't place the clamp jaws over the top of the little strobe lights on the stern. I heard where another modeller did that and pushed the bulbs right back inside the hull.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Oh yes.
Thanks for the warning Trek, It's always appreciated..But when dry fitting the two hull halves together to see how well it will button up, I also tried out some clamping placement and will definitely be avoiding those little strobes as much as possible.

It will be hard not to avoid all of the back windows, But will be as carefull as possable.

I still may be able to get a little more clearance in there before i seal the hull up permanant,As this is just a test fit.

I actually used a mix of testers tube glue and Testors super glue to secure those little blinking strobs in place, So hopefully they will stay put during all of the handling during the initial sealing of the hull.:thumbsup:


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Oh yes, As a side note..I realise i wont be winning any awards for my photo taking skills, AKA, Low lighting, Background distractions etc.

The closer i get to finishing this kit, Will get this thing set up on a big table top under better lighting, With clearer pics..No musical instruments.


Thanks all for checking this thread.:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Meh... I never worry about background distractions too much for in-progress pics. So long as they are lit decently and in focus. I save the best for the finished pics!


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Yea, I'll manage to get some nice pics of the ship towards the end of my build promise.

These will be the last pics for the weekend, Until i can score more primer & Paint.

I just finished the work i had started last night which included filling the seamlines of both engine nacelle pylons, Sanding & Primering & Repeating those steps over untill i got a nice even smooth finish with no noticeable seams on either one of these babies.

Before i started the seamline work both pylons were glued tight with Testors tube glue & a bit of Testors super glue mixed in And then clamped overnight.

I don't seem to have any problems fishing the lighting wires through the pylons so while i'm doing this work have left them out to avoid any accidental damage.

I finally caved in and dumped the old Testors tube putty which unfortunately i have used on a few of my previous kits & Bought a couple of tubes of Tamiya basic gray putty which is a far superior product.

I'm very happy with the results & Hope the remainder of the seamwork turns out just as nice.

In the pictures if the pylons look a bit different in color from each other, It is because i ran out of primary hull touch up paint and had to leave one of them bare primer for now. 

I try and use my paints as sparingly as possible, But this kit takes a LOT!
Will resume work & post more updates soon. Thanks for looking & Everyone have a great weekend!:thumbsup:

Newest photo link below

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/deuce882/library/Nacelle Pylon work


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I seem to see no seams so good job! That Tamiya putty is the workbee's knees ain't it?


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

Yup. Just watch out with those skinny seams on the pylons and neck. I thought they were gone but wound up putting even after I put on the base coat.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Trekkriffic said:


> I seem to see no seams so good job! That Tamiya putty is the workbee's knees ain't it?


HeeHee, Yep working with the Tamiya putty is definitely an improvement over 
the Testors gray tube garbage..And that's no dig at most of Testors paints etc.

I still love their little bottles of Enamals & Flat Model master paints.:thumbsup:

I notice there was a bit of glare in some of the pylon pics,So it may have been hard to make out.. But i looked them over this evening again under some brite light, And to my eye, Looks like i did in fact eliminate the seams.

As i will have to do more touching up to this kits various sections after final assembly, I'll definitely go over it in fine detail.

Like i said earlier, If i get the neck , Secondary hull, And the long seam lines on those Nacelles as good as the Pylon's, Will be most satisfied.

Oh and then there is still the saucer section.:freak:


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Mark2000 said:


> Yup. Just watch out with those skinny seams on the pylons and neck. I thought they were gone but wound up putting even after I put on the base coat.


Will do.
I actually did have enough paint to apply a basecoat to one of the pylons, And checked it again tonight after it had some time for the paint to start curing.

So far, It looks VERY nice. But will definitely watch out on the remainder of the kit, Especially the Nacelles & Saucer section. Will post more updates soon.:thumbsup:


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Greetings, I'm updating a new progress link below of my Enterprise build.
I didn't have much time last week to get any work done, But caught up this morning and afternoon on some much needed seamline work to the secondary hull.

Man, Those pylon seams were nothing compared to the secondary hull sections/Top & Bottom.:freak:

After Puttying,Sanding,Primering, Sanding & Primering & Repeating about 4 times i finally got it to where it was acceptable looking to me.

I still have a little clean up to some of the windows as i thought i had them all masked up good, But still a little overspray found it's way onto some while i was blending in the seam work with some hull color touch up.

I guess i'll try a little rubbing alcohol or if that doesn't work, Will get a bottle of Laquer thinner..That should remove any of the overspray.

Please note in the pictures the little hanger deck beacon and neck pylon have just been dry fitted to the secondary hull.

I still need to install the lighting and windows along with glueing the halves together.

I wanted to see how the neck pylon looks after painting that striping on.
I think some of you guys used that hellblau paint on your neck striping, Which has a bluish tinge to it, But i read somewhere that the production model stripe was a gray green color..So that's what i used on mine.

Wether or not the color is accurate, It will have to do.:thumbsup:
I may go back over them and try to crispen the lines up a little more.

Thanks for checking, And will try and update more in the following week.

Latest progress link below.

http://s739.photobucket.com/user/deuce882/library/Secondary Hull progress


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