# Looking for Fray Car Builders



## hrnts69 (Apr 12, 2007)

Since i cant build T-Jets worth anything, iam looking for somebody to build me a RTR Fray Style car for the MHRA/CITRO Race Group. I have a Orginal T-Jet already if that helps.
Here are the rules: 
MHRA FRAY T-Jet Rules: 

1) The complete car must weigh at or between 20.0 grams and 24.0 grams. 

2) The complete car must freely pass through a standard 1.3125” (1 5/16”) HO tech block.

Body Regulations:

1) Body: The body must be a copy of a 1:1 car and concept cars. 

2) Bodies must be manufactured by either the process of casting or injection molding and be made of resin or plastic. No feather-light resin allowed.

3) Bodies must be originally manufactured with the intention of being mounted with the use of two (2) screws via two (2) body-mounting posts on a/an: Aurora Model Motoring (which includes: Vibrator, ThunderJet, Wild Ones, Tough Ones and Xlerators), Bachmann, Faller, Model Motoring ThunderPlus, Marx, Eldon or Tyco S series HO chassis. 

4) Bodies with cast-in handling pans or exaggerated details - such as unrealistic or inappropriate hood scoops, oversized windows, side pipes, sloped sides, or snow plow noses - are not allowed. 

5) No Indy style Formula 1 or Formula style open-wheel bodies will be allowed. 

6) No ballast or fillers, other than color pigment, are allowed in the plastic or resin. 

7) Maximum overall body width is 1.200”. Accordingly, the body must pass through our 1.2” body-tech device.

8) The maximum thickness of the lower portion of the body, including items such as the front end, rear end, fender flares, and running boards must not exceed 0.125”. 

9) With the body mounted securely to the chassis and viewed from above, the body must cover the chassis except through windows and vents. Unrealistic overly large windows and vents are not allowed. 

10) With the body mounted securely to the rolling chassis and when viewed from the side of the body, the upper edge of the top-plate, minus rails, cannot be above the top of the body as measured at the rear of the top-plate. (i.e.: The horizontal top of the gear plate (base) cannot protrude above the rear window opening). 

11) Bodies must be fitted with all of the manufacturer’s original or exact-replica bumpers, heads, rollover bars, etc. in their stock locations. 

12) Cracked or broken body-mounting posts may be repaired or replaced with the use of glue and/or a plastic sleeve around the original post or a plastic rod/tube in place of the broken post. 

13) Other than the plastic post reinforcements, stated in Body Rule 12, no additional weight may be added to the body. 

14) The body may be lowered and lightened by removing material through the process of grinding or scraping as long as Body Rule 9 is not violated. Bodies cannot be heated or reshaped from the original cast of the body.

15) Bodies that have a separate roof and windshield casting/molding, and have molded-in interiors (also known as Hardtops, e.g. Aurora's '65 Mustang), may completely remove the interior portion of the body. 

16) Front and rear wheelwells may be opened up for tire wheelwell clearance. This opening may be no larger than a 1/8-inch drill bit (.125") around the entire wheelwell and tire.

17) Wheelwells must not be modified in such a way as to allow the use of any other wheelbase than that which was originally intended by the manufacturer of that body. 

18) Any body-mounting screw may be used. Non-magnetic screws are recommended so that a loose screw will not be picked up by a passing car, thus causing damage to the car and/or the track. 

19) Both front and rear screws must be used and must secure the body to the chassis at all times. 

20) The front windshield must be plastic or resin, clear or painted, may be glued in place or molded in, and must fill the frame. Tape windshields are not allowed. Side and/or rear windows may be removed. 

21) Bodies that violate Body Rules 4 and 9 by having illegal openings such as too large or unrealistic windows, missing engine covers, and open truck beds may be repaired by gluing a 0.025” minimum thickness plastic cover over the opening. The repair must be made so that its thickness can be checked using a micrometer having a ¼” diameter anvil. 

ThunderJet Rolling Chassis Assembly Regulations:

1) Only original Aurora ThunderJet chassis assemblies with non-plated copper electrical components are allowed. Commutator brush springs may be bent to alter brush tension. Pickup shoe hanger plates may be bent. 

2) The rolling chassis’ axle, armature, and drive pinion shaft holes may be opened up slightly for increased clearance. 

2a) The “Truck” hole cannot be utilized in any way.

3) The rolling chassis assembly must not be fitted with bushings. 

4) The chassis may be trimmed slightly (no more than .010”) to allow for crown gear tooth clearance. 

5) Only an original Aurora T-Jet pancake gray armature with two laminations, with its original commutator, and all of its original unmodified windings may be used. The armature may be balanced and trued. 

6) Each armature pole is to be measured across two separate commutator segments. The AVERAGE of all three poles must be 16 ohms or greater. i.e.: Pole A measures @ 15.8 ohms, Pole B measures @ 16.2 ohms and Pole C measures @ 16.0 ohms – This armature is LEGAL. All measurements are to be taken at the current available room (ambient) air temperature. The warming of either the commutator or the armature is not allowed before/during measuring. (The combined total ohm reading of all three armature poles must equal or exceed 48 ohms.)

7) Only Johnny Lightning and AutoWorld magnets may be used. The magnets may be sanded to fit the chassis. The distance between the magnets must be a minimum of .700"; no exaggerated sanding is allowed to close the armature gap. This will be teched using our custom-designed, specially fabricated Plug.

8) Magnet shims may not be used. No shims are allowed either under or on top of the magnets.

9) Any flat top and bottom carbon/copper motor brushes are allowed. Brushes may be scored with one score line or an “X”. No exaggerated deep cuts or crevices allowed; this will be checked for at tech.

10) Only stock or commercially available stock replacement 14 tooth brass armature pinion gears are allowed. 

11) Only stock or commercially available stock replacement 24 tooth brass idler and driven gears are allowed. 

12) Only stock or commercially available stock replacement 9 tooth brass drive-pinion gears are allowed. 

13) Only stock or commercially available stock replacement 15 tooth crown gears are allowed. The crown gear diameter must equal or exceed .300". The crown gear boss may be trimmed or a spacer(s) may be added to adjust for proper gear mesh within the crown gear box. 

14) Only metal driven-gear shafts may be used. The driven-gear shaft must not exceed .065" in diameter. 

15) Gear-tooth friction surfaces can only be de-burred by polishing, filing, or sanding.

16) Gears must not be chamfered, lightened, or relieved. 

17) Only commercially available front wheel, tire, and axle assemblies may be used with two exceptions. The front and rear axle diameter must not exceed .065" and the front tire diameter must equal or exceed .300". Front axle washers (spacers) are allowed. All spacers/washers must be located outside the chassis or chassis frame rail, With the exception to the above rolling chassis rule #13. Maximum lateral movement in the front wheel assembly is 0.031” (1/32”). 

18) Rear wheels may not be made of Brass or solid Delrin. No spacers or wheel weights or hub caps allowed on rear axle or inside wheels.

19) Any stock or stock replacement pickup shoe may be used. These shoes must have a factory formed step and the step must be unaltered except to allow flat pickup shoe contact with the track rail. American Line #313, BSRT #504, Slottech #1440 and stock Aurora ThunderJet shoes are allowed. Ski shoes are not allowed.

20) The "step" in the pick-up shoe must remain intact and be unaltered, except that only the first bend in the step, (Bend #2), may be changed slightly so that proper "pick-up shoe" to "rail" contact can be achieved. No attempts to "flatten" the "step" are allowed. The area between (Bend #1) and (Bend #2) may be "flattened" to achieve better contact with the "rails"; however, (Bend #1) must remain as stock. The front vertical slotted portion of the pick-up shoe may be bent to limit shoe travel. The rear hook portion of the pick-up shoe may be bent to limit shoe travel and adjust shoe tension. The chassis' copper pickup retainer may be bent slightly to improve electrical contact.

21) Pickup shoe springs may be cut, stretched, shimmed, or compressed. 

22) Any amount of the vertical gear-plate rails above the upper horizontal plane may be removed. No amount of material may be removed from the gear-plate at or below the upper horizontal plane. The serial/patent numbers and letters must also remain intact. 

23) Commercially available guide pins must be plastic and must be of a design essentially similar to the original Aurora black plastic front guide pins. They may be cut, trimmed, or bent. Countersinking of the guide pin screw hole is permitted. 

24) Glue may be used on a rolling chassis assembly only for the purposes of attaching gears, guide pins, or axles. Solder may be used to attach metal gears to their metal shafts.

25) The Fray promoters reserve the right to clarify and interpret the rules as they arise for the best interest of the event.

If it does not say you can do it, you CAN'T!! 

Please PM me if you think you can help me out.
Thanks
Blake


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## afxgns (Jul 6, 2006)

I'll be able to do it.
What type of track do you run on?
Can you adjust it yourself?
What type of controller do you have?
What voltage will you be running?

I'll do it for the cost of the parts.
If you want one from a known builder try these guys:
http://www.kc-jets.mahorkc.com/
Or this guy:
http://www.wizzardho.com/Main.htm

Both are great products.


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## blubyu (May 4, 2008)

Like to Know how much that would cost$$$? Best of luck! Really I would build&learn as I go, also talk to the guy's in MHRA/CITRO group for some tips. Nice to have the Tools to.


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## gear buster (Dec 1, 2005)

I can build them but at the moment I have very little time to build alot. Have a few I am finishing so I can mail out. I use all wizzard parts. I am with blu. Build and learn the curves of the car. Build so you can drive it. All drivers have a different driving style. Some might like them loose and some like them tight..
(Slotcars guys.. Get your head out of the Gutter lane..)
If not in a real big hurry I have all the parts in stock to build the fray except front wheels.


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## Brixmix (Dec 2, 2007)

Hrnts69
You might want tot talk to Heater before you have someone build you a Fray car. I 'm not sure they are even going to run them. The interest might not be there for that exact t-jet class (Fray). AS Tim has stated there are places to buy RTR Fray car, Tim builds Great cars also. I would probably be able to help you out if you supply parts, but if you like a more experienced builder Tim would be a good one as would KC jets and Wizzard cars (built by Rick Jocham).

Travis


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