# AMT Enterprise Refit model question...



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

With every movie came another edition of the 1:537 Enterprise. I haven't had one since 1979 (lost in time & moves, unfortunately)... my question is, did they retool anything with each pop, or was it precisely the same mold used every time?

Also, if you have pictures of one (or more) this might be a fun-er thread.:thumbsup:


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Chrisisall said:


> With every movie came another edition of the 1:537 Enterprise. I haven't had one since 1979 (lost in time & moves, unfortunately)... my question is, did they retool anything with each pop, or was it precisely the same mold used every time?
> 
> Also, if you have pictures of one (or more) this might be a fun-er thread.:thumbsup:


AMT made the choice in the early 1980's to add "texture" to the model by adding totally inaccurate paneling. They did this by taking grinders to the original molds and cutting the panels into the existing molds, forever destroying them. On the plus side, with sandpaper and a little elbow grease, the original smooth surface can be restored in these later issue kits. 
The best version of the AMT refit is the original 1979 smoothie version. The version re-issued for The Wrath of Khan may still be the smooth version, but I am not sure of that. The only other changes made along the way was the addition of the Shuttle model for the Star Trek V: The Final Frontier release. The shuttle was not in scale with the Enterprise, it appeared to be around 1:144 scale. For the 25th anniversary of Star Trek they reissued the kit with a new base that contained a sound board, speaker and added a basic light kit to it.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

The tooling was modified after the first run, an inaccurate grid pattern was added, grills were added to the engine nacelles, and the planetary sensor part was slightly retooled.
The tooling was modified again when the special edition lights and sounds "E" came out. A small section of the tab on either end of the pylons was cut out to allow for wiring to pass through, and several holes were added to install lights in, and the nav deflector had a clear blue insert with a reflector behind it with a light in it. These later changes were in all future releases of the model and clear parts were added for the light holes.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Wow, guys! Some pretty interesting history there. Is there any word on who the original artist(s) was that created the master? I never seem to have any luck tracking down those people. I'm always wondering if those early kit masters were made by fans, or just really talented dudes...


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

So the only smoothie has the TMP box?


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

I can weigh in on this conversation. Lesney products which owned A.M.T. went bankrupt in 1982. A.M.T. was bought by The Ertl Company then and my friend and I called them about reissuing the A.M.T. Star Trek kits. In early 1983 Ertl told me they were going to bring back 3 of the Star Trek models at that time. The original A.M.T. 18 inch Enterprise the original 3 piece set with the Enterprise Klingon and Romulan ships and last the 22 inch Movie Enterprise. Ertl said they were going to make changes to the Movie Enterprise and I remember at very first my friend and I were stunned at all the changes Ertl made. It was not A.M.T. that changed the molds it was Ertl. They bought the A.M.T. molds and used the A.M.T. name. I was dissapointed over time with Ertls engravement changes. At very first they seemed promising but they wound up ruining the model. One further change Ertl added a new base for the Movie Enterprise at the time of Star Trek IV. In 1985 I talked to Ertl at length about why they changed the Movie Enterprise model from its original Smooth version and this is what they told me. They felt the surface of the Movie Enterprise was plain and they hired a local toolsman and wanted to add what they felt were absent details to the model. The fellow I talked to said they wanted to get rid of as many decals as they could. If you remember the Original Smooth version had those Rainbow effect decals and Ertl elimanated those and added in the detail. The man told me Ertl also felt they were like stickers and made the model toylike. Truth is A.M.Ts decals were better and he also said adding the detail would save them money. At very first I thought Ertls engraved aztecing was ok but that faded with time. I just make the best out of the Ertl Movie Enterprise A. It was my favorite model (The Original A.M.T. version} and although Ertls detail changes aren't great I make the best of the model because it was one of my favorites.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Guy Schlicter said:


> I can weigh in on this conversation.


WOW, I'm so glad you did, Guy!! This E-history is great!!

I dug up a picture of the paneling additions, btw:










Yeah, my one back in the day was totally devoid of these.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kenlee said:


> The version re-issued for The Wrath of Khan may still be the smooth version, but I am not sure of that.


Just did some visual spade work, nah. And it seems to have come out in 1983- Guy's post indicates a 1982 change of guard, so it makes sense.


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> Just did some visual spade work, nah. And it seems to have come out in 1983- Guy's post indicates a 1982 change of guard, so it makes sense.


I still remember in August of 1983 the 3 reissued kits came out at a local toy store. The Wrath of Khan version which first appeared in the Summer of 83 was in the Motion Picture Box but the title was changed to the Wrath of Khan and it was Ertls first run of their revised Movie Enterprise with their added in Detail Changes.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Guy Schlicter said:


> it was Ertls first run of their revised Movie Enterprise with their added in Detail Changes.


Ehh, smooth or inaccurate panels, whatever. I never thought the idea of such intricate & extensive 'paneling' was a good idea. When ILM just covered it all over in greys I was happy. I liked the subtle 'suggested' panels better than the rainbow from the first movie, even though the first one was the best _movie_, IMO.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Ooops! I just accidentally bought a STV AMT Enterprise model on eBay...
ohboy, now I'm in for it...:freak:


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Chrisisall said:


> Ooops! I just accidentally bought a STV AMT Enterprise model on eBay...
> ohboy, now I'm in for it...:freak:


Honestly unless you are really gunning for a studio accurate build (which will cost much, much more after you buy corrected parts etc) don't worry about it. I just won a refit "lights and sound" kit for $18 off ebay and I will eventually just build it as is, but add my own lights. 

I've seen some motion picture kits but they usually go between $50-$80 alone and that's just way too steep for me. Plus corrected parts, better decals, paint etc that's going to be close to $200+. 

Now discussing those horribly flimsy pylon-to-secondary-hull connections is a different story... 

Good luck whichever route you take!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Honestly unless you are really gunning for a studio accurate build (which will cost much, much more after you buy corrected parts etc) don't worry about it.


I'm not going for studio model accuracy, just onscreen-look accuracy... and I don't buy aftermarket parts- I make them, so that'll keep costs down.


> I just won a refit "lights and sound" kit for $18 off ebay and I will eventually just build it as is, but add my own lights.


Was THAT you? :tongue:


> I've seen some motion picture kits but they usually go between $50-$80 alone and that's just way too steep for me. Plus corrected parts, better decals, paint etc that's going to be close to $200+.


 Yeah, that's nuts, might as well get the 1:350 Polar lights at those prices. Personally, I wanted this 22 inch size; it works best for my space. I'll deal with the inaccuracies.


> Now discussing those horribly flimsy pylon-to-secondary-hull connections is a different story...


That's what metal coat hangars are for....:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kenlee said:


> On the plus side, with sandpaper and a little elbow grease, the original smooth surface can be restored in these later issue kits.


We will see.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Chrisisall said:


> I'm not going for studio model accuracy, just onscreen-look accuracy... and I don't buy aftermarket parts- I make them, so that'll keep costs down.Was THAT you? :tongue: Yeah, that's nuts, might as well get the 1:350 Polar lights at those prices. Personally, I wanted this 22 inch size; it works best for my space. I'll deal with the inaccuracies.That's what metal coat hangars are for....:thumbsup:


Ha you sold it to me? That would be hilarious if true. I think you mentioned the coat hangers before, Sadly all mine are plastic but I may try some thin brass tubing. I really wish we had a R2 1/500.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Ha you sold it to me? That would be hilarious if true.


No, but I've been lurking around 1:537 models for a bit there...


> I think you mentioned the coat hangers before, Sadly all mine are plastic but I may try some thin brass tubing.


Sounds like a solid plan.


> I really wish we had a R2 1/500.


Man, we are alike in this, you and I.
*breaks out the Romulan Ale*


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

This reminds me, I need to fix my Phase II Enterprise...


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Why can't R2 take a grinder and just eliminate the phony aztec ERTL added to the molds????


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> Why can't R2 take a grinder and just eliminate the phony aztec ERTL added to the molds????


Unfortunately its the build design as well as the paneling. They would need to take the beautifully designed 1/350 and shrink it.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

irishtrek said:


> Why can't R2 take a grinder and just eliminate the phony aztec ERTL added to the molds????


Because the detail was ground _into _the negative molds in the first place. To return it to normal they'd have to FILL the ground-out recesses they made.

Probably be easier to create new molds from scanning an original smoothie (or whatever they do to make repops).


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

John P said:


> Because the detail was ground _into _the negative molds in the first place. To return it to normal they'd have to FILL the ground-out recesses they made.


For myself, I plan on a lot of sanding! It's my favourite thing!:drunk:


> Probably be easier to create new molds from scanning an original smoothie (or whatever they do to make repops).


Making molds is a big thing as I understand it. Once the mold is made- that's it. The master isn't usually still around for long. When they do repops, I believe it's with the old molds. Newer mold making processes with scanning are still pretty new, but available.
Anyone more familiar with the process wanna fine tune my statements a bit please?

Ah, I found this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_molding


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

John P said:


> Because the detail was ground _into _the negative molds in the first place. To return it to normal they'd have to FILL the ground-out recesses they made.
> 
> Probably be easier to create new molds from scanning an original smoothie (or whatever they do to make repops).


If it had _a raised pattern instead of engraved lines_ then it would be easier to understand what you're saying John, but since the lines on the model itself are engraved instead of raised............... Or are you reffering to the 'texture' on the models surface???


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Yep, John's talking about the _extra_ detail, the raised pattern texture on the model's surface, ground into the molds of the issues _after_ the smoothie.

... since nobody's complaining about the grid lines on the old smoothie.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

SteveR said:


> .
> 
> ... since nobody's complaining about the grid lines on the old smoothie.


Grid lines!!!??

Yeah, it's a confusing concept... I had thought that they'd created the phoney aztecing by ADDING raised lines into the mold that would show up on the plastic as indented, but they REMOVED small squares & rectangles that resulted in a slight extra thickness to the hull, with the parts NOT ground out resulting in indented lines.
Hmmm, did I just explain better or confuse more-?

Anyway, (a) sanding the hull down to the level of the indented panel lines should successfully recapture the look of the original smoothie.
Of course it could be (b) filled in & sanded- IF that doesn't make the overall look of the ship too 'fat'. Since the 'neck' on this model is a bit thin, I think I'll do (b) on the neck, and (a) in most other places.

Also, if my research is correct, I'll have to tend to corrections to the top of the saucer section, the bottom of the saucer section, the impulse engines, the deflector housing, the nacelle grills....


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

A relatively simple way to recreate the smoothie would be to make castings of the entire sprues, then fine tune from there.

Might take a few generations of castings before they could make actual molds, but there you have it.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

SteveR said:


> Yep, John's talking about the _extra_ detail, the raised pattern texture on the model's surface, ground into the molds of the issues _after_ the smoothie.
> 
> ... since nobody's complaining about the grid lines on the old smoothie.


Then theoreticaly they should be able to eliminate the texture with a grinder to the molds and remove not just the phony aztec but the unwanted texture as well.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

And you'd wind up with a ridiculously thick hull.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

irishtrek said:


> Then theoreticaly they should be able to eliminate the texture with a grinder to the molds and remove not just the phony aztec but the unwanted texture as well.


The phony aztec _is_ the unwanted texture. 

But yes, doing so would thicken the hull as Cap A states. The molds were ground down to create the aztec texture, making the kit hull thicker than the smoothie in those parts. Grinding the molds further would even out the texture, but make the hull _evenly_ thicker than the smoothie.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Crude, but it may help understand the concept...


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Chrisisall said:


> Crude, but it may help understand the concept...


Yep. Therefore, sanding the aztec off the kit has been the solution.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

SteveR said:


> Yep. Therefore, sanding the aztec off the kit has been the solution.


More tri & bi soreness will ensue...

:lol:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Unless you've got a very deft hand with a Dremel, and an even better hand with putty.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain April said:


> Unless you've got a very deft hand with a Dremel, and an even better hand with putty.


I'm great with putty- but what's a dremel?
It's like a drill, right?


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Sorry for the total derailment but did Tamiya discontinue the TS-45 Pearl White cans? I know they had to retool everything here in the States due to new legislation but I can't find any new info. I know they have a Pearl White but 86057 but it's labeled specifically "Not for use on plastic". 

My other option was to use white primer -> MM Clear Pearl -> brush detail colors -> decals then hit it with a clear gloss or something.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

SteveR said:


> The phony aztec _is_ the unwanted texture.
> 
> But yes, doing so would thicken the hull as Cap A states. The molds were ground down to create the aztec texture, making the kit hull thicker than the smoothie in those parts. Grinding the molds further would even out the texture, but make the hull _evenly_ thicker than the smoothie.


Ok I stand corrected, thanks guys. :wave:
So then why not just fill in the 'gap' with liquid stell or what ever the molds were made of and eliminate the imitation aztec that way????


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

irishtrek said:


> ... So then why not just fill in the 'gap' with liquid stell or what ever the molds were made of and eliminate the imitation aztec that way????


My guess is that the machining/polishing necessary after the filling would result in a cost close to the costs of creating an entirely new mold.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

If there were such a thing as a steel putty, pressed into the mold, then a smoothie casting pressed into the mold to form the putty ... naah. We can dream, though ...


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Why would we want to repop the AMT Refit with it's many inaccuracies? UNLESS R2 added a new sprue or three with corrected details; still wouldn't fix all of the AMT Refit's problems, but sure would go a long way on that kit!

I don't really have anything against the AMT Refit per se; I've got quite a lot of them around and they do build up into nice sized models. It's just all of the wrong shapes that kit got saddled with!!!


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> I'm great with putty- but what's a dremel?
> It's like a drill, right?


Yes, its like a drill and can be used as such on a small scale.

Dremel


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Sorry for the total derailment but did Tamiya discontinue the TS-45 Pearl White cans? I know they had to retool everything here in the States due to new legislation but I can't find any new info. I know they have a Pearl White but 86057 but it's labeled specifically "Not for use on plastic".
> 
> My other option was to use white primer -> MM Clear Pearl -> brush detail colors -> decals then hit it with a clear gloss or something.


I talked to my LHS owner a couple of days ago. His latest info is that the paints will be available in July. He has not heard about any colors being discontinued.

I should point out that the availability date has been moved like 4 times already.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Fozzie said:


> I talked to my LHS owner a couple of days ago. His latest info is that the paints will be available in July. He has not heard about any colors being discontinued.
> 
> I should point out that the availability date has been moved like 4 times already.


Thanks for the update glad someone knows. Better to know bad news than no news at all sometimes.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

WarpCore Breach said:


> Why would we want to repop the AMT Refit with it's many inaccuracies? UNLESS R2 added a new sprue or three with corrected details; still wouldn't fix all of the AMT Refit's problems, but sure would go a long way on that kit!
> 
> I don't really have anything against the AMT Refit per se; I've got quite a lot of them around and they do build up into nice sized models. It's just all of the wrong shapes that kit got saddled with!!!


The way some of the pieces go together can be fixed with a bit of injenuity like the way the neck fits onto the secondary hull as well as the saucer section. And the opening in the tabs of the nacelle pylons can be dealt with fairly easy, just add a piece of sheet plastic over the gap and file and shape to fit, and then file the slot where the pylon goes into the strong back pieces for the tabs to fit into.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

One could (and several have) ask the same question regarding the repopping of the Exploration Set.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> The way some of the pieces go together can be fixed with a bit of injenuity like the way the neck fits onto the secondary hull as well as the saucer section. And the opening in the tabs of the nacelle pylons can be dealt with fairly easy, just add a piece of sheet plastic over the gap and file and shape to fit, and then file the slot where the pylon goes into the strong back pieces for the tabs to fit into.


This post will no doubt make much more sense to me once I get my kit.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

But, aint that the way it usauly goes????:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> But, aint that the way it usually goes????:wave:


Yeah, I made the 'smoothie' back in 1979- foolish kid that I was, didn't even paint the hull- just the deflector dish & sundry items, slapped on the decals & boom I was done. My memory is that it went together easily, and was fairly solid- until it slid off a crowded shelf & busted a pylon at the secondary hull connection. I glued it back, but it busted again later. Got put in a box & thrown out before we moved. 
THIS time I will make it right, and take care of it. 33 years later I'll be revisiting my past. It's a kind of time travel.
It sort of blows my mind that any version of my kit from back then even exists, much less that I could purchase it at a _totally_ reasonable price & do it all over again.
To quote Captain Jack Sparrow, crazy old world, isn't it?:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> But, aint that the way it usually goes????:wave:


I got the kit today, look:










Not as thick & obtrusive as I'd expected- sanding will be a lot easier than I thought!!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Chrisisall said:


> I got the kit today, look:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yup looks just like mine! I may try some putty then sand it even. I'm afraid I'll sand it through the whole thing otherwise. Now I just need to save up $100 for corrected parts


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Yup looks just like mine! I may try some putty then sand it even. I'm afraid I'll sand it through the whole thing otherwise.


Hey, not a problem dude! It's old, and Made In America- thick good styrene! Just sand it. The 'plates' are really very thinly added.


> Now I just need to save up $100 for corrected parts


I'll be modding my own parts. Most difficult part for me to correct will be the deflector dish housing. 

Will you be lighting yours, ML?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Now I just need to save up $100 for corrected parts


Just to tell ya, the replacement parts are really great, but not absolutely100% accurate themselves... 

Here's some great pictures in case you never saw them:

http://bruce-domain.blogspot.com/2010/10/studio-model-reference-part-7-refit-ncc.html


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Chrisisall said:


> Will you be lighting yours, ML?


I plan on it! I was going to build/light my Excelsior first but I think I want to pick up an airbrush, train myself on the Ex then move on to my 22" ERTL baby. I don't have the patience or tools to cut/mask holes for the Excelsior so I'm just going to build/paint it up.

I picked up one "With lights and sounds" but plan on using modern LED's and LED tape. I don't know if I will spring for a flasher board though. I wish they weren't so expensive. (Plus I need to buy a pre-built system as I have zero skill building one like DLM's kits).



Chrisisall said:


> Just to tell ya, the replacement parts are really great, but not absolutely100% accurate themselves...
> 
> Here's some great pictures in case you never saw them:
> 
> http://bruce-domain.blogspot.com/2010/10/studio-model-reference-part-7-refit-ncc.html


Well I figure no one will notice but me so if I can live with it then I should be okay.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

MLCrisis32 said:


> Well I figure no one will notice but me so if I can live with it then I should be okay.


Yeah, some little things that won't bug us is fine, it's not like we're gonna sell them to anyone- as long as they freak US, all is well. :thumbsup:

Like, the bumpy ridges in the front of the nacelles- I won't bother _too_ much with that. The bridge dome just needs to be taken down in height a tad. The planetary sensor piece I'll go nuts on, though, the dome is _way_ too small and the rest needs to be radically re-shaped. For me it's the most serious error. Photon torpedo piece will be an easy fix. Sanding the hull will take the most time- not difficult, just extensive. Deflector dish housing I have some ideas for...

I decided not to light mine (subject to change without notice)- sculpting & painting is more my thing, so I'll let this be just as pretty a 'statue' as I can make it.

Are you gonna use the sound your model comes with? Will you be doing all the running lights over the whole ship?


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

What I remember most from my smoothy were the dang dry-transfer decals. UGH!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Chrisisall said:


> I decided not to light mine (subject to change without notice)- sculpting & painting is more my thing, so I'll let this be just as pretty a 'statue' as I can make it.
> 
> Are you gonna use the sound your model comes with? Will you be doing all the running lights over the whole ship?


Nothing wrong with keeping to what you're best at! Me? I'm not great at either yet so I figure "why not?!". I plan on using a combo of LED tape + 3mm LEDs to light up the hull, secondary and neck. If I can save up extra cash I will try to pick up one of those Starling-tech pre-built nav/strobe boards I've seen on ebay or here: http://www.starling-tech.com/index1.php?id=ncc-1701-refit-a but it seems like so much money for a few blinking lights.

Oh and I don't plan on using my lights/board because if I remember correctly the sound board is horrible and I know the lights weren't modern LEDs. A couple of them were grain of wheat and got super hot. Plus the board is underpowered and when the nav lights blink everything dims.

Also I need to find a compressor! I just ordered an Iwata CR Revolution airbrush, cleaning station and hose from Amazon with a gift card I forgot I had. =)


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

seaQuest said:


> What I remember most from my smoothy were the dang dry-transfer decals. UGH!


Talk about your gut checks. Sheesh! :freak:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Yahoo, in the mean time, I threw this together tonight (got the kit in today's mail)- I'm on a Trek roll...:thumbsup:


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Roll on big momma, roll on!!!:wave:


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

MLCrisis32 said:


> I don't know if I will spring for a flasher board though. I wish they weren't so expensive. (Plus I need to buy a pre-built system as I have zero skill building one like DLM's kits).



ML, check out Starling Technologies http://www.starling-tech.com/index1.php?id=electronics, either on their site or eBay. They have a flasher board that won't choak your wallet! They are around $40-45 and have trim pots so you can adjust the blink rate. 

They are pre-built and very well made. I've got a couple of them plus their big set for the 1:350 Big E and the KBOP. These are just way cool.

But anyway, the flasher board even has no solder connections for the lights and power. Of course you'd have to solder the LEDs to the wires, but that's all!

Oh, one thing, they don't come with LEDs, you have to supply them. Which are real cheap. The driver board runs off 9v.

You should check'em out and see what you think. Stan is a real patient and helpful fellow.

hal9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> Roll on big momma, roll on!!!:wave:


This Klingon Cruiser was so much fun to slap together! My only boggle is, when I make my AMT Enterprise Refit, do I paint up these two as from STTMP, or STVI?
I'm on the fence here...


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Well, look at it this way Chris, either way will be right! 

Know what you mean though, tuff choice.

hal9001-


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> ML, check out Starling Technologies http://www.starling-tech.com/index1.php?id=electronics, either on their site or eBay. They have a flasher board that won't choak your wallet! They are around $40-45 and have trim pots so you can adjust the blink rate.
> 
> They are pre-built and very well made. I've got a couple of them plus their big set for the 1:350 Big E and the KBOP. These are just way cool.
> 
> ...


Funny you mentioned them I just posted about their boards in another post. Its good to hear from someone that knows their products so thanks for the info. (Always wary of companies without a reference) :wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> Know what you mean though, tuff choice.


I'm thinking _artistically_, maybe a point in between...

Oh, and a dude on another board reminded me that I did a Bozeman, so I have Reliant parts left over that I can use on my Enterprise!


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Chrisisall said:


> This Klingon Cruiser was so much fun to slap together! My only boggle is, when I make my AMT Enterprise Refit, do I paint up these two as from STTMP, or STVI?
> I'm on the fence here...


If you're going to build up the Klingon cruiser as Kronos 1 there are differences between it and TMP version, just in case you didn't already know.
And as for the torpedoe tubes off the Reliant you're going to need to trim them down in order for them to fit on the refit.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> If you're going to build up the Klingon cruiser as Kronos 1 there are differences between it and TMP version, just in case you didn't already know.


Yeah, they added doohickies & thingamabobs then painted it differently...


> And as for the torpedo tubes off the Reliant you're going to need to trim them down in order for them to fit on the refit.


No, that will be more or less from scratch.


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