# Look out here's another Jupiter 2...



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

After several months of looking touching and feeling the kit I decided to start work on it over the week end just gone. However it's been one of those "Murphys law" w/ends...

After spending several hours on preping the top and bottom hull pieces I set about spraying them up. I decided to go with the Tamiyas Titanium Silver for the main hull colour. Not as shiny or overtly silver looking but for me it has a depth and warmth that fits in better with how I remember it looked on the ole telly as well as I remember somehere reading about the outer hull being made of titanium. So with both halves nicely painted I decided to give the top piece a coat of clear gloss to help protect it during the build... Well that was the idea but what happened was a near and somewhat gut wrenching disaster. The clear fried up the base coat making the entire paint work finish with a fine orange peel texture!!! I have used the same brand in the clear flat with out any such issues but the gloss well that will now be going in the bin...!! 

So with Alec bordering on tears I began the task of wet n dry sanding in a couple of grades to try to fix it. I managed to sand it back to a smooth reasonable finish but there are still some areas that do still look a little off, even after several more coats of the base colour were re-applied. Sandy, my wife said it came out well but I know differant so with that I went down one of the paths I had filed in my pre build plans. I weatherd the hulls. Now some of the purists out there will be not amused with this coarse of action, however I think it looks just right for the premise of the ship and crew being 'Lost in space".... these are what I came up with for added detail I took these with no flash & under a bright but warm cfl light. Since then though I have applied another over coat to tone down the shading and blend in the panels.

















I also started on the legs and decided to keep with the well travelled look so I added some dry brushing detail to them for the worn in look. The sides are done in flat aluminium as is the foot pad with a coat of metalic grey to add something extra. The steps are dark sea grey base coat and then worked up with the dry brushing of a lighter grey mix. The main strut is done in GW's mithril silver and a black wash applied to it and the little rubber joint cover.









I have also done the reactor housing in metalic grey as well and tomorrow that will have a silver dry brush added as well. To be honest I just wanted to add extra metalics in the mix to add some thing extra rather than the whole outer hull being all one shade of silver/metalic. But just to prove that the modeling gremlins haven't left me... I some how managed to break part of my airbrush tonight and of all the bits to damage it is the part that hold the needle in place. So now I am waiting on the importer to tell me if and how much a replacement part is.:freak:

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Actually, Jupiter 2 purist that I am, I actually LIKE your use of Tamiya Titanium Silver, and the weathering touches. I'm more than happy with the Tamiya Mica Silver that I used for a nice, clean ship.
However, you just inspired me to use Tamiya Titanium Silver on my C-57D, which I tried Krylon Nickle Silver on over the weekend, and am unhappy with the results of; every imperfection and swirl of the plastic hull shows through.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I like what you did too with the "worn" look. Nice start so far!

As far as the imperfections in the model, I got news for you, after probably 6 coats of primer and some sanding, 3 coats of HOK base,a nd 6 coats of clear with flake on mine, you can still see EVERY little swirl in that plastic. It was a little displeasing at first, but when you really look at it, it's tiny machining swirls, not unlike what you would find on custom automobiles and bikes with some hand milled parts. I'm guessing most real space vehicles aren't smooth either!


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

*Excellent work as usual my friend!!!*


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

AJ-1701 said:


> After several months of looking touching and feeling the kit I decided to start work on it over the week end just gone. However it's been one of those "Murphys law" w/ends...
> 
> After spending several hours on preping the top and bottom hull pieces I set about spraying them up. I decided to go with the Tamiyas Titanium Silver for the main hull colour. Not as shiny or overtly silver looking but for me it has a depth and warmth that fits in better with how I remember it looked on the ole telly as well as I remember somehere reading about the outer hull being made of titanium. So with both halves nicely painted I decided to give the top piece a coat of clear gloss to help protect it during the build... Well that was the idea but what happened was a near and somewhat gut wrenching disaster. The clear fried up the base coat making the entire paint work finish with a fine orange peel texture!!! I have used the same brand in the clear flat with out any such issues but the gloss well that will now be going in the bin...!!
> 
> ...


I think the weathering gives the hull a more "realistic" and interesting look.
Looks great to me!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I like it - something new and different ... and it looks like it's gone through a few rough re-entries after blasting through the energy fields that seem to surround just about every planet they come across


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Defintely a good save on the hull. I was wondering if you washed the plastic first and if the oils could ahve seeped thru the base coat to orange peel the top coat? 

You've got me thinking about some kind of subtle paneling with hull. I'm gonna try alcald's for the first time ever on this hull, so I'm scared as... someone who is terribly scared of the unknown.


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

I have to agree Alec,
The weathering really adds someting to the look, Like paulbo said, the robinsons were always blasting off into/from another planet and I can only assume there is not a space ship wash in there travels, I doubt the shuttle ever came home clean and shiney either..


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

skinnyonce said:


> ...I can only assume there is not a space ship wash in their travels...


I dunno - they seemed to run into just about everything else


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## Zathros (Dec 21, 2000)

*I am not usually a "weathered vessel" fan as I like my crafts to have what I like to call that "showroom look", but I gotta say that your treatment to this ships hulls, due what happened with the clearcoat reaction*, *looks great indeed..it gives it a realistic look.

Z
*


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

I like it!
Sorry to hear about your misfortune with the clear coat,But luckily you were able to save it,And make some things work to your advantage.
It actually kind of reminds me of the J2 from the Inovation comics, I can't wait to see some pics of your J2 when it's finished up:thumbsup:


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## Dar (Apr 20, 2007)

I think it turned out great AJ.:thumbsup: One has to remember the full sized set had hull weathering on it. In fact I remember there was an episode where the robinsons where cleaning it.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Wow thanks for the compliments guy's 

Model Man I did clean off the parts and as I said the clear gloss is the same brand as what I use for the clear flat. Which are suposed to be good for art and craft and acrylic paints and I have never had any issues with thier flat??? I should have know after shaking the damn can for about 3 min and not hearing the marble inside that something was amiss... Tim what you said about the little 'defects' showing up, about the only areas on mine that actually showed up was a pattern in the door and a line under the main windows. Both of which actually add a touch of realism so I lucked out there 

Thanks again guys,

Alec.:wave:


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Just for confirmation: Early S2 episode where Smith nearly flies the Jupiter into the Sun, Prof. Robinson comments about the heat of the Sun "melting through the titanium hull like butter!" IIRC the quote....


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

and those foil covered asteriods they were always running into had to leave some sort of marks


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

If the fusion reactor never broke into pieces and did not even suffered a little scratch in the impacts, when the ship had crashed, the asteroids must have been like cotton (or foam) balls.


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## Chuck Eds (Jul 20, 2009)

I've found that giving the plastic a light sandblasting is a great surface prep, like 220 grit @ about 30psi. 

I'm lucky to have access to stuff like that at work and it's defintely worth trying for anyone else who does, or for someone who can hook you up.

I used Rustoleum spraypaint on mine w/ dullcoat on top & I didn't have any problems...


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

As a modeling and painting neophyte (but a big LIS fan) who is only about to crack open the packaging on his J2, I'd like to take advantage of this thread to ask a couple of questions about clear coating.

I plan to wash only the top and bottom hulls in a little dish soap. Then some sandable auto primer followed by some light wet sanding. Then a few coats of some yet-selected silver paint from a can. Now coincidentally, I was just looking at Herb Hampton's excellent painting reference document and he shows the ship weathered with some artists pastels and I really like it. Soooo . . .

- If I like the level of gloss from the paint, why do I want to top coat with a clear gloss? Is it just to protect the finish?
- Won't a top coat of gloss make it especially glossy? Will a less glossy clear coat offer the same protection from finger prints, etc.?
- I imagine a top coat would help to protect the weathering work (especially if done in pastels), but might it not look odd if the weathering were under the top coat?
- Any thoughts about how to make sure I don't struggle with the same reaction resulting in orange peel?

Thanks for any insights.


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

I had a major misfortune myself. i bought Tamiye pint for the entire job EXCEPT the landing gear. I had some generic silver paint hanging around I used, and it melted the landing gear plastic.... yeah that's right. I'm waiting for replacement parts now.

This time around, (a) I'm using the right paint, and (b) I'm painting the gear unassembled. I'm doing the steps in a gray that's equivelent to the silver color and the outsides of the gear in the matching silver. Should add a little more depth to the look. Also, by painting the stairs when unassembled, the paint will actually go all the way through a lot better.

I also cut down the covers for the closed version and am attaching them to the rear of the gear. It will look better that way.

I used the Tamiya aluminum for the hull with clearcoat. Other than a couple of cat hairs here and there, it turned out perfect. Has a nice silver gray look with the clearcoat. Kind of a cross between the B&W and coilor version. Painted the window frame silver so it has just a tiny bit of contrast. looks great.


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Nice job on saving a bad situation, aj! Its looking really nice!


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Thanks hedorah59 

Peacefield I was only using the clear gloss to origionaly protect it during the build process as I think there is going to be a lot of handeling. The actual gloss on the tamiya paint I used is pretty good. I found out doing a test with the same brand of clear flat I always use it did the same thing so I reckon it must be something in the metalics that is having the reaction issues...:drunk:

Cheers,

Alec


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## JimPV (Apr 26, 2009)

Remember, any clear coat you put over a metallic paint will ruin the "metallic-ness" of it.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Whats been done so far... 

Ohh the shame... Firstly a bad job with the back of the landing legs  something to fix later

The reactor core is glued in as yet and I know there will be some light leak seams to fix but this is the bottom half. Apart from some guffs on the legs I'm pretty pleased with the lower hull. It's a bit more weathered than the top this was mostly deliberate as it wasthe bottom that copped the most flogging with all those crash landings. I'm not sure if all the little holes are thruster vents but thats how I treated them with some extra scorching on them.
















And for what ever reason I got this 'V' shape which stood out after painting in the main airlock door so I just shaded it up a bit to look like a ghost image of the internal frame work...








I also decided not to do the inside of the leg bays in silver. Instead I did them in the colours I plan to use inside the main cabin for those grey bulk heads and sections.

















The best part for me so far is that I'm getting over not having the clean launch tower look. So thanks again for the comments to date on the hull finish.

Cheers,

Alec.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Hi!
Your weathering effect on the hull really did turn out first class! You have NOTHING to be ashamed of there my friend:thumbsup:
The fact that you were able to correct any issues in the paint that were caused by the clear coat,And use it to your advantage is something to be proud of! From looking at the photos,It looks like the J2 would look, If a prop department was to treat a filming miniuture for a LIS series/Movie today.
I doubt any J2 hero would be filmed today without some form of weathering added to it. The thruster scorches also add to the realism!


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Looking Good! :thumbsup:


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

JimPV said:


> Remember, any clear coat you put over a metallic paint will ruin the "metallic-ness" of it.


true, unless that's the look you want. I did that with Tamiya "aluminum" and it kept the metalic look, but definitely gave it a greyer look. The hull color is a cross between season 1 and 3!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Great job so far! :thumbsup: I prefer it weathered like that!


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

It's different but pretty cool. now all it needs is the tin foil meteorites.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Again, It looks great my friend:thumbsup:

To be honest, I actuall prefer the Light flat Grey Color the Jupiter Two was Painted In the First season.

The reason I painted it the Tamiya Mica Silver was kinda the best Combo of the Light Gey/ Silver.

If I build another, It will be Light Gey with the first Season Interior Detailing all the Way.:thumbsup:

But again, Your's Looks Great!


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

beatlepaul said:


> Again, It looks great my friend:thumbsup:
> 
> To be honest, I actuall prefer the Light flat Grey Color the Jupiter Two was Painted In the First season.
> 
> ...


So you're going to build it in black and white?


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Hello one and all.

Thanks again for the compliments. This week the focus at home has shifted with passing of my wifes mother last Thursday. It was something thats been a couple of years coming but still an emotional shock for everyone none the less. I have done some work more for theraputic reasons rather than a need to build. 

One of the first things to be done was Henrys reactor and dome light set :thumbsup: this I put in place with hot glue then covered over it with some plastic shaped to cover the circular housing then held that in place with tape before giving it a coat of silver from a rattle can. It looks dodgy but it does the job for light blocking and it'll be hidden under the floor.









For the dome lighting I took the kit piece that the radars sit on turned it over marked were the leds are then drilled it out to sit over the eight leds. The gives a good base for the radar dishes as well as the leds don't sit so proud. Again I hot glued this in place then painted ofer it with a thick vinyl black artist paint held the wires inplace with super glue covered by tape and the sprayed over with silver. The silver inside the top hull will eventually be overcoated with an off white semi gloss to help with the lighting effects.









I have yet to apply several coats of clear flat to the dome leds to help tone them down.

Now came a part that I had been dreading... Where to install all the switches?? As I have decided to run with the top hull not glued in place on complition I went for Alex's idea and carefully removed the pod bay doors, which wasn't so theraputic by the way!!! I cleaned up the edges then glued a thin piece of plasticard to the front and rear edge of the door cut out. It's simple but effective. I just lift up the door slide it back then it drops out. I then made up a box out of 3mm plasticard for the switches glued it in place and dada I can now have all the lighting, wireing and switches enclosed giving me a free hand at how to final display it.
















Next on the to do list is to finish off the stair well lighting... Then I might actually start on the interior build 

Cheers & thanks for looking,

Alec


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Looking fantastic!
Please do keep the pics coming:thumbsup:


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Things have slowly returned to normal here now so I found time to do some more.

I decided to finished the lighting in the leg wells. Escentially they are lit with 5mm white leds ground down to fit flush and I added some plastic led bezels as light surounds just as an extra touch. I was going to add some at the back but in a lighting test it was overkill with lights so I'll just fill those with krystal klear to look light lights. 
















After finishing the stair well lights I went on to starting the walls. I've proberbly taken some artistic/modelers licence on some of the colours for the main wall colours but it keeps in theme with what I used on the Space Pod. Again I'm using Paulbo's sweet little PE set which are yet to be preped ready for the decals e.g use krystal klear to fill the small holes so the decals sit better and not 'suck' in to the small holes.








I then did the floor again the camera makes the colours look a little off because the centre circle isn't that yellow?? It dosn't show much but before I glossed the brown part I dusted over a mist of dark copper just as something differant. When I ahd done the floor I decided to knock up the main parts of the astrogater. This is where I took a lead from Johncal and decided to light it up a bit. Again its a 5mm led with a tube of alfoil inside to act as a light block. I also filed out some sections of the mounting ring to let some light thru rather than the whole base being illuminated. I also drilled out 6 small holes and slipped in some short fibre optics to show up as running lights of a sort and then mounted the remainder of the pieces.

































I know some of the changes aren't canon but thas whats the best part of this hobby you can make a piece the same but still be a little differant 

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

LOOKIN GOOOD ALEC!!!!:thumbsup:


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

beatlepaul said:


> LOOKIN GOOOD ALEC!!!!:thumbsup:


Thank you kind sir. 

To night I started the main console and work on the pe pieces for said console. This time I'll remeber to take a couple of wip shots on it before it's done.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

*Long over due update...*

Well life does get in the way… But now I’m getting back into the modeling track again… With all the little things that happened to date and a finish that is not going where I wanted I have decided to button it up with the top hull permanently glued in place. I feel pretty good with what can be seen through the main view port and little port hole and with what lighting I have it will still be a good display piece for the new house next year. 

My last post on this thread was suggesting I was going to tackle the main console. Well it was more a case of it tackling me. My attempts at fiber optics went as far south as good go. How Tim and others got theirs into the three top flight consoles is something I couldn’t emulate. So I went with some 3mm leds with in built flashing chips instead. 

Also this was the area where I had pretty much screwed up the top notch decals that came from JT’s in Pauls sweet little pe kit. All by such basic and dare I admit stupid goofs e.g. not glossing before and after applying and not paying attention to how much bath time they had!!! I also got a bit heavy handed with the orange clear spray behind the centre console so it’s not as bright as it should be. Said f/o’s also gave me grief with those areas behind the freezer tubes. That said the freezer tubes went well. Under each of these I have a 3mm led airbrushed in a flesh tone paint to give them a deep warmer glow, kind of like a powered down mode. For the area behind the wall that glows blue I airbrushed flat white over those clear pieces and in the tests with a ground down blue led behind them the look pretty good. I piked out with the added detail on the walls with the added tubing, cowardice overcame the need for super detail... 








I have added the blue lights in the static discharge tubes and for the stasis tube units I went much the same as Alex did with his and used three differant metalics on them. I'm not sure if the actual set pieces had a darker metalic band on the bulb shaped parts but I like the look by adding the metalic grey to the raised center rib looks. The foil yu can see is there for block out when I figure out how I can tackle lighting those flashing consoles...??? 








Other areas I have finished are the comunication console (still deciding on back lighting that) The astrogator, with this I decided to take out the lighting from under the main disc on the support column that could be seen. Though I left in the F/o's and back lit section under the little J2. I remembered to pre and post gloss the decals here. No silvering. :woohoo: And the calabration ring is printed on photo paper from a post some one did here on HT can't remember who though...
















I decided to tidy up the mess of wiring I had running all over the place to make room for the additional blue and other back lights. 








I am now working on the wall section that houses the atomic clock electronics wall and the computer translator. 








Other extras I will also be adding are some over head lighting through the soffit, (I learned that from my FS1 build) to help brighten up the interior and also help with the glow from the reflective strips that came in Lous masking set.

Cheers,

Alec.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Very nice work, OUTSTANDING !
Bert


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

GREAT JOB ALEC!!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

:thumbsup: SUPERB! :wave:


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## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

Fantastic work! The lighting looks great. I also love the little picture of the cyclops on the viewscreen. 

Sean


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Thank you guys 

I've pretty much finished the interior now with the last wall piece done and I used some games workshop inks and washes to colour behind the electrics panel and the little pe computer reels came up a treat. I do have one question though... Is there ment to be a light above/behingd the gyroscope red sphere? 


I put three lights into the soffit one above and behind the pilots seats, one above the electrics and gyroscope wall and the last above the door to the storage room near the ladder. I also used the ceiling art that Johncal posted up. 

The only thing left to do is redo some of the electrics due to a wall wart error... However to console myself I began working on my display base. As all my other moebius builds are on senic style bases the J2 had to be as well. My origional concept was to try to emulate the really cool art work on the box or at least have a plan b. Which was good as plan a was a bit beyond my engineering capabilities...

Cheers,

Alec.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

*See we don't always have to crash!!*

So plan 'b' on the display base involved some sweet talking to the wife so I could "borrow" a little round mdf occasional table she hasn't used for some time. I then took out a piece of old gaming scenery, the trusty foil pie tin turned upside down and bashed in, this is to represent the area beneath the fusion core as a thrust/repulsion crater. Not sure if that would actually happen but it looks cool. I then added some rocks I had scrounged from a recent day at the beach and when the glue had dried I then painted over the raw mdf before I applied a build up of cement render to hide the base the crater is mounted on.









While the render was still wet I positioned the model so I could sculpt in the deprecion from the landing legs and some small burn craters from the retro thrusters








After leaving that for a couple of days to dry. I primed over the render and then brushed on several different browns over the whole area and some of the rocks.








Again I left that over night to dry before I set at it with the airbrush and then several drybrushes of differant hues followed then by more airbrush work with inks and washes and I even added some dark metalic to the rocks and base to help with the alien look.... Following that was the grass patches, small scrub/bushes and some coarser sandy areas. These I then over sprayed with a thin brown through the air brush to tone them down for a dryer desserty look








And the obligatory test shot with the model to make sure it worked ok...









Those with a keen eye will notice that the crater area is off centre. I di this so I could add a small plaque and also leave room for the inscale chariot that is to come. I also deliberatly used the more redder browns to try and emmulate the area where the live footage was taken which from my memory of the show was full of red and brown rocks, boulders and sand. 

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

*FREAKIN AWESOME!:thumbsup::thumbsup:*


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

That is one fantastic Jupiter 2 Alec. I have mine started but just barely and got side tracked to some other builds. Adding the base was just icing on the cake. I am unsure about lighting at this point but will have to decide before I get too far into it. Now, may I ask, where do you intend to display it? That is the biggest problem I foresee with this model.

Bob K.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

AJ-1701 said:


> So plan 'b' on the display base involved some sweet talking to the wife so I could "borrow" a little round mdf occasional table she hasn't used for some time. I then took out a piece of old gaming scenery, the trusty foil pie tin turned upside down and bashed in, this is to represent the area beneath the fusion core as a thrust/repulsion crater. Not sure if that would actually happen but it looks cool. I then added some rocks I had scrounged from a recent day at the beach and when the glue had dried I then painted over the raw mdf before I applied a build up of cement render to hide the base the crater is mounted on.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Absolutely gorgeous build!


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

WOW!! These are amazing build ups!! SO much work and attention to details!!!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Love It!!


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Thanks again everyone 

rkoenn, well yes it is a bit bigger than I had realized for a display piece  something the good wife 'pointed' out too But *there* is always a spot to display a model and without realizing Sandy actually made the space available. That was after we moved the furniture around to make room for the jukebox/kareoke machine we hired for her 50th birthday bash.

So after giving the table base a primer coat I then sprayed it with a chrome silver rattle can. It's still not buttoned up as I am waiting on a new core board and also for the budget to strengthen so I can get some figures for it to.










Cheers,

Alec


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Damn, that looks sharp Alec!

Love the base - thanks for posting the photos of it by itself.

BTW - It's my PE set, not Drew's (he doesn't make one)


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

VERY,VERY NICE INDEED:thumbsup:

WELL DONE MY FRIEND!


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

:thumbsup:


AJ-1701 said:


> Thank you guys
> 
> . I do have one question though... Is there ment to be a light above/behingd the gyroscope red sphere?
> 
> ...


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Really nice build and base you made for it. It looks great with its own stand. Super job!There is no way my wife will let me display mine anywhere in the house proper, so when its done it will hang in the basement/bar/workshop area.


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## johncal (May 26, 2010)

Hunch said:


> Really nice build and base you made for it. It looks great with its own stand. Super job!There is no way my wife will let me display mine anywhere in the house proper, so when its done it will hang in the basement/bar/workshop area.


Won't let you..... huh


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Thanks again guys,  

OMG Paul,  I'm going to go back and correct that one for sure. I was thinking about when and if Drew was ever going to release more figures other than the freezer ones... Mate I am so sorry for the name goof.

Thanks for the heads up Seaview and the compliment. Funny enough I did toy around with the idea of putting a light inside it, much like I did with the scanner on my pod build. But in the end I went for the easy out with the over head lighting...

Hunch my little woman wasn't so sure about me finding a spot inside but she did herself with out even realizing it. So it's good too get when a bloke gets a win from the other half. :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Very well done Alec, thanks for posting. Now I'm SURE I won't build my new J2 kit anytime soon! 

Tib


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## JohnG7 (Jan 1, 2010)

What beautiful work. Thanks for the photos!

AJ-1701 is the Master of Disaster. The Prince of Paints. The Count of Monte Brushstroke! :thumbsup:


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

looks good, I like the "it aint new any more look" i weathered the fins on mine to make it look like the fusion core was cooking them a bit.


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