# J2 Flight Log. Project: DVD



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Hey all. So here's some initial goings-on. 

Overall progress will be noted on this webpage
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/dvdproject

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*EDIT 121231:* I have been keeping track of these videos in a youtube playlist. As it turns out, there is a 200 video limitation on playlists and I just hit it! Thus, playlist 1 has 194 vids and a runtime of 24hrs and forty odd minutes! It includes every video from Flight Log 1 part 1 to Flight Log 26 part 5.

Starting this morning, playlist 2 will start with Flight Log 27 part 1 and conclude with the final video in the series. To also note is that the above webpage has not been updated in sometime. Not a lot has changed, but there are a few minor things that have happened. It needs a redesign, I must admit. Meanwhile, this thread will cover all the details.

*Playlist 1*
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC9A0E02733B23DCA

*Playlist 2*
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLamQ81Bt1SR7NZv_3dx7t40P8r-Qgz2oa

Thanks for checking in!
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Initial work began last night and a YT test vids is processing now. If good, I'm batching a bunch for upload tonight.

We're going with a softball start before ramping up to the major leagues. The first installment will pre-flight the bath and parts examination. Second installment will cover the tools from must-haves to the niceties. 

From there, I think we get into construction. I'll know better as I go.

So far, Paulbo of Paragrafix has contributed his aftermarket parts. Another is working furiously to get me his product. One other vendor is leaning toward a limited contribution. A fourth hasn't written back and two other vendors that I know of need me to write them. 

Only confirmed vendors names will be discussed in this series as I cannot review a product which is not submitted.

As parts are coming in, I'm gonna ramp into this on the slower side and once things shake themselves out, we'll go full speed ahead.

*Some other notes.* 

I spent the week testing the post-production side and the final HD format will be 720p rather than 1080i. There are a number of reasons for this, primary among them is the utility of the extra frame size versus deliverability and playability. The DVD release will be standard 720x480 tv, but the raw files will be included for local computer playback at home. The Youtube version will be 640x480 with a logo burn.

A very releveant thread with greater details can be found here:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=280385

*Giveaways*
I've got two things in mind. 
1. This option is the bee's-knees of giveaways, however I have to confirm details as yet so don't wanna make any promises or comments. but J2 builders would be quite psyched I think.

2. Win a Free copy of this DVD series. A thread with full details and conditions will be started soon'ish.

So you can look for the youtubery to begin sometime tonight!


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Very cool project! I will be watching closely. 

What would also be great is if you included information as to what aftermarket pieces you are using and how someone wanting to build the kit can obtain them...it would give a plug for the guys that contributed them to you. Most of the stuff I am familiar with but the newbies might not be...

Thanks for doing this!:thumbsup:

MMM


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

MonsterModelMan said:


> Very cool project! I will be watching closely.
> 
> What would also be great is if you included information as to what aftermarket pieces you are using and how someone wanting to build the kit can obtain them...it would give a plug for the guys that contributed them to you. Most of the stuff I am familiar with but the newbies might not be...
> 
> ...


Yup. I will fully plug any vendor who supplies their wares, including all contact info and a blind, head-to-head competition with similar products for the viewer to decide which is the best option for them.


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## frankg3243 (Jan 31, 2010)

Nice! 

I can’t wait to see it started. I have been watching your videos on YouTube for a while now, and all of the models look great. I also like your Tools, Tips and Tricks section they come in handy. If you are going to use after market parts you could tell us so we could get them too. 

I’m waiting to see what the contest is about!

Thanks for Everything
frankg3243


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Full info on the after market parts will be provided.

A few notes. 
There is a lot of post processing on this project. On the order of days and much of it will come down to rendering times. Start to finish, part 3 alone took ~15hrs for 10 mins of vid. This is not unexpected. 

Therefore I will likely shoot this in batches of similar actions. In this case, here is the entire bath sequence. Next up is reviewing the tools needed, the directions and initial strategy session. I would like to have that posted by the weekend. 

So I think one or two big updates every week rather than sporadic posts as they finish.

Most importantly to note is that the DVD version will not have a huge banner blocking part of the image!

With that, here is the four part bath sequence.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's the second installment covering the proscribed tools and a bunch of handy other ones to have on hand. I got pretty thorough covering everything I could think from simply having a clean bench to sandpaper, leds wiring and everything in-between, in front of, behind and all around.































The initial strategy and first-glue session are shot and processing now. 

The first aftermarket parts from Paragrafix are in and are getting shot tonight. 

All those videos should be up in the next few days. I've got a two day job that is gonna occupy my time until mid-week.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Great overview...very thorough! Thanks for giving us soo much detail too! I think I picked up a few tips too along the way!

Keep up the GREAT work!!!:thumbsup:

MMM


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks M3! It's feedback that keeps me going and critiques that make me better.

Considering the nature of the project, a top to bottom overview for those just getting back into the hobby, those who aren't sure they can handle a Level 3 kit and those in need of another perspective, I'm gonna make sure all the bases are covered. 

I'm debating replacing all the dialogue with a new vocal track. Same content read into a microphone with all speech flubs eliminated. It would go beyond a huge effort when considering the transcribing process, but would make the dvd itself much more saleable. There will be music under added. Helpful graphics and tips will also be added to the dvd version.

Here's the next installment: The strategy session and first parts glued together! I ran into the lack-of-paint wall immediately after this, but got most of it yesterday. Gonna get the rest today. Got a new dual-action airbrush on order.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

So...it looks like I need to purchase a lot more clamps if I want to do more than 1 wall at a time! 

Another thing that might be helpful in the very first post is to list all of the aftermarket parts and how to get them (links) so others can get what you are working with and follow along if they want to.

This has been a GREAT tutorial so far...but be careful...you might want to keep your language in check somewhat ie:bite in the -$$... if you are not planning on an audio redo...especially if you are going straight to DVD. I don't mind it but others in the mass market might not like it for the youngin's...

MMM :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

No videos this time, but I wanna note a few updates. 
First, the contributors so far.

*Skinnyonce* for the kit and going far above and beyond with other helpful tools as well! I cannot stress enough what a good guy he is.

*Cajjunwolfman* for throwing down on the paint! As this project is a glue, then paint, then glue then paint kind of thing, I was about to stall out immediately. For most excellent timing and taking a flyer on this project, big cheers to him!
*
Paulbo @ Paragrafix *has contributed his decals, PE and vinyl masks. I'll have that review posting in the next few days and I think everyone will be knocked out by the fantastic products.

*Henry @ TSDS* has contributed his decals, vinyl masks and FUSION CORE! 

*On deck stands: *
*Paulbo* with one more product, 
*Crow's Nest* with figures 
*Eliot Brown* is feverishly working on his generic lighting kit.

I contacted _JAI_ and _voodoo_ a couple weeks ago, but no responses as yet. If you want to see how their products stack up side-by-side, let them know so. Are there any other After market vendors I should know about? Let me know and I will contact them!

If you want to make a personal contribution in return for the full dvd set, it is not too late! Your contribution will go to offset the investments made so far!
---------------------------------

In other news, I am updating the website with all appropriate info, designing a bunch of new pages to go with it. When done, everything will be a clickable link. http://www.twinlitworlds.com/dvdproject/

I now have all the paints in hand. All leds needed are in transit. A new airbrush just arrived in the nick of time and I will need a few days to get used to the new heft and functionality of it.

The next vid in this series will be the Paragrafix product review in the next few days. After that, it's back into the build. I just picked up a day-job for the next 2-3 weeks so will have to devote my life to that paycheck, but work on this model will continue and vids will post! I wanna get one batch done per week at this point.
--------------------

I'm gonna make it semi-official now: 
*The hobbytalk/J2 Super-Ultra-Hyper Space Raffle!* 

My idea is that all products not used in this build project will be raffled off here on hobbytalk in it's own thread. 

I will not be keeping any of that stuff! I am sending it back into the community! 

I'm talking fusion cores, decals, landing gear and any other aftermarket contributions not glued into the build, probably including random left-overs too. There may be other items to help induce folks. I gotta sort the minutia out, but we could be talking power tools, even! 

_*How to get in on the raffle?*_

What I am thinking is that signing up for a 1yr HT membership gets you one chance to win. Signing up for lifetime membership gets three chances to win. The details will evolve as the build proceeds, but that is the gist of it. 

I will make an announcement with plenty of time to make a decision on your part. FYI, the 1yr membership is $20 and lifetime is $55. So the grand prize will be any spare fusion core! Only one prize per person, multiple chances to win though.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

*A brief update. * 
I am two weeks into a 3 week job, working ~65hrs per. I get up at 7am, get home at 9pm, eat dinner, sleep and repeat. Almost done though.

Next up you can expect the TSDS Aftermarket review. Another Tool review featuring all the paint required to build this model, a quick look at a very affordable airbrush option and, of course, construction will be getting fully underway on this kit with all tools now in house. 

My apologies on the delay. Rent and Bill payments must come first. While big, the J2 is a little too small to live in for long.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> *A brief update. *
> 
> 
> My apologies on the delay. Rent and Bill payments must come first. While big, the J2 is a little too small to live in for long.


And it hasn't got a bathroom!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

liskorea317 said:


> And it hasn't got a bathroom!



Tell me about it! I tried aiming out the window, but it just doesn't work out all that well.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

These are posted in their own thread here, but figure I should include them here as they will be part of the dvd project.

Part 1, Photoetch and Replacement Decals





Part 2, Vinyl Masks


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Welp, my 2 week job turned into a 4 week marathon and this is deadline week coming up.

Nevertheless, I've been doing more with the J2 this week and the effort has resulted in the next installment. 

Four parts covering magnetizing the hull and blacking out the interior to kill any subsurface scattering of light thru the plastic. A dry fit of the completed pieces and a look at what's next tops this installment off.





















Next installment is the TSDS decals, vinyl mask and *fusion core *review!


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## WmTodd (Feb 11, 2010)

ModelMan Tom, thanks a TON for these videos. I've been subscribed to your Youtube channel for a couple weeks now and catching up on things, and have yet to see the new batch. I've been very closely following your progress and following suggestions and steps as you've laid out..... just washed all my J2 trees, and moving on to the hull and floor in a day or so here....and can't wait to deal with the subsurface scattering issue (i.e. black paint), and just stocked up on wet-sanding materials, so the fun is just beginning! :thumbsup:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks very much. This project has dragged lately due to career stuff, but I hope to get seriosuly moving on this throughout March. Many people are concerned about lighting this kit and I wanna tackle that topic in a very big way very soon.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Tom,

Great job so far...I like the idea of the magnets for the hull and floor too. I'm guessing that you want to keep as much of the floor/walls accessable as possible so that you can get to the wiring/LED's and still keep the model together...correct?

I've never seen magnets done to a kit before as I'm a figure guy but this is great to actually watch this being put together in this way. I also like how you re-inforced the floor with the styrene rods as well...

Keep up the GREAT work!:thumbsup:

MMM


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks and yup, I wanna keep this as modular as possible and magnets are perfect. 

I first used magnets in Revell's viper reissue the other year. I wanted to light it, but didn't have any supplies at the time. It occurred to me I could hold it together thru magnetism until such time as I got around to lighting. 

Since then, making every kit I light magnetic for future repairs, should they be needed, has been the goal. It hasn't always proven possible or even feasible for various reasons, but a few mags helps keep your options open until doors must be shut and options closed if they must be.

Keep in mind with figure kits, you can magnetize the feet!


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## Ensign Eddie (Nov 25, 1998)

I love the videos. I have only made it through the tools vids so far and have a question. I am curious to know if your paint box is vented to the outside. I assume it is, but I didn't catch if you said it was or not. If it isn't, where is it vented to?

Thanks for all the hard work!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Yes, the fan sits directly against a window screen and vents over the driveway and thanks for the compliments.
---

Well, my 2-3 week job is turning into 5 weeks on monday, after which I step into another 4 week job. That one coming up should be normal-people hours, so am looking forward to good time to spend on this model. 

This video covers the first major dryfit, with some musing and the introduction of the display base. Looking to get more over this weekend.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Once again, a nice little vid project you have here!

I may have missed it, but did you say where you got the magnets from that you used to secure the deck and hull?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I've been avoiding recommending particular ebay sellers as it's ebay and even 100% seller can be a coin toss. So with the buyer beware mantra in mind, the magnet seller is serrow999. I've had 3 or 4 dealings with him over the year for about $50 and haven't gone wrong yet. free shipping, excellent prices and good selection.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

starmanmm said:


> Once again, a nice little vid project you have here!
> 
> I may have missed it, but did you say where you got the magnets from that you used to secure the deck and hull?



http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16913

If you would like to avoid E-Bay, you can buy from here. I use them all the time
for my builds.....:thumbsup:


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Thanks to you two for the info.

What you have done here is giving my thoughts on using magnets to access my kits... seeing that I never gave it much thought in the past to do so.

It was getting the magnets and the proper sized one which seem to be the only thing I should look into.

Thanks again!


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

[QUOTE=starmanmm;

It was getting the magnets and the proper sized one which seem to be the only thing I should look into

from my mistakes using neodymium magnets


do yourself a favor and start with 1/16 thick and somewhere around 1/4-1/2 inch in diameter..
I have some 3/4 x1/4 and 3/4x 1/8 and they are almost impossible to seperate by hand, if used you would never get the kit apart..

also you may consider using them with (steel washer to magnet combo) magnet to magnet is one awsome attraction..

just posting my stupidity's worth


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Still good info.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

All good info, indeed. That $50 I've spent has gotten me a few hundred magnets. I can't believe I go thru them so fast. But I use them everywhere. My workbench is ringed with them (great for catching stray leds and holding down the 'helping hands'), my dremel drill press has them all over for drill bits, they make handy xacto and file holders, I've even got them on the side of my airbrush for a fast wall mount. Too useful!
--------------

In J2 news:
I am in contact with two youtubers who are making cores for sale. They'll be sending me samples in the next couple weeks so that makes six core makers I know of: TSDS, Fedoratron, TenaControl, Anothercoilgun, Voodoofx and JAI. In addition to the 2 YT'ers, voodoo sent me a note yesterday that I will followup on later today thus making the only core maker not to get back to me is JAI. As I get a couple more cores in, I will try again. If you know of any other options, let me know and I will followup on them.

It's hard to believe, but with just a few pieces glued together, it is already time to think about how this kit is going to be wired for regular lights! We got us some plastic to slice up! The next couple videos will cover that info -basic inventory of what is needed and where; and it is also time to get that photoetch installed too. Stay tuned, big stuff is coming up!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

1. Assessing the lighting situation. We are easily gonna have a hundred+ strands of fiber and 'could' go to 100 leds as well!

2. Cutting into the first Paragrafix photo etch pieces. 

3. And making a big ol' hole under the piloting station!



















No sooner did my last 60+hr/wk job end that I stepped into another one yesterday that should last a few weeks. With 4 days off in the last 5 weeks, I sure could use a long weekend!

In other J2 news, I talked with JAI personally the other night and he's gonna be sending one or more of his products along.


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## XMAN64 (Dec 30, 2009)

Great thread and simply loaded with "useful" info. Modelman I can't thank you enough this is realy helping me out.....You the man!!!


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

WOW...that is gonna be a ton of lights! Not being very familiar with how bright you can get fiberoptics from just a single 5mm LED...I'm not sure how many LEDs you would need to use as lasers for the fiber optics. We will have to see how you progress along with that. I wasn't thinking that I would use nearly half as many as you have described but I will see how you attack this and may rethink this for my kit. It still seems like a lot to me. But I agree, that you should try to do as best as you can...just take it in steps.
And I'm glad you picked up the Dremel to cut those pieces...I was talking out loud while watching the videos and said "Why not use a Dremel" when you changed directions and did so.LOL! Much easier...right?

Great job so far...learning much from you!

MMM


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I'm rounding those led numbers up (hopefully). By not individually lighting that computer wall, there's ~50 leds. The big freezer wall will need lots of lights to make a uniform glow. One thing I didn't mention in the vid is the ceiling. That will need some lights. 

All the little station 'indicator, buttons and switches' lights only need a few/half dozen if fibered properly. A couple blue, one or two red, a green here or there and several yellows. Maybe 10. 

The piloting station needs two dedicated green for the radar and 1 yellow for the astrogator moire thing. Each freezer tube needs its own led, the elevator as well. One led underneath the stairs to suggest lights down there. Maybe a couple, white and some yellow to give a mix... The airlock has no lights, but there is a control panel in there. If any doors are cut out, each of those backrooms will need an led or two.

So, yeah, maybe a 100 or so. One could likely get away with fewer.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> I'm rounding those led numbers up (hopefully). By not individually lighting that computer wall, there's ~50 leds. The big freezer wall will need lots of lights to make a uniform glow. One thing I didn't mention in the vid is the ceiling. That will need some lights.
> 
> All the little station 'indicator, buttons and switches' lights only need a few/half dozen if fibered properly. A couple blue, one or two red, a green here or there and several yellows. Maybe 10.
> 
> ...


Have you thought about the possibility of using one of those extra core light kits as a source of fiber optic lights that randomly blink? The computer lights at the control center, over the freezing tubes, etc. I had seen someone do that on a PL kit and it really brought the panels to life.
This would be an extra rotating core set, not the main set. Possibly mounted under the floor.
That would keep you busy for awhile!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

liskorea317 said:


> Have you thought about the possibility of using one of those extra core light kits as a source of fiber optic lights that randomly blink? ...


It is a good idea, but I had not thought of that. The reason being is that I will not be keeping any 'extra' fusion cores or any extra anything! I am giving ALL spare components away, right here at hobbytalk, free, when the build is complete! (I think it's on page 1 somewhere.)

Here's a clip
I'm gonna make it semi-official now:
The hobbytalk/J2 Super-Ultra-Hyper Space Raffle!

My idea is that all products not used in this build project will be raffled off here on hobbytalk in it's own thread.

I will not be keeping any of that stuff! I am sending it back into the community!

I'm talking fusion cores, decals, landing gear and any other aftermarket contributions not glued into the build, probably including random left-overs too. There may be other items to help induce folks. I gotta sort the minutia out, but we could be talking power tools, even!

How to get in on the raffle?

What I am thinking is that signing up for a 1yr HT membership gets you one chance to win. Signing up for lifetime membership gets three chances to win. The details will evolve as the build proceeds, but that is the gist of it.

I will make an announcement with plenty of time to make a decision on your part. FYI, the 1yr membership is $20 and lifetime is $55. So the grand prize will be any spare fusion core! Only one prize per person, multiple chances to win though.


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

I'm loving this series. Learning how you approach the kit and tackle challenges is such a great help with how I will approach this kit and other ones too.

Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:


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## mmmmp (Jan 15, 2010)

>Have you thought about the possibility of using one of those extra core light kits as a >source of fiber optic lights that randomly blink? ...<

I had a 'spare' set of Police chaser micro LEDS.(blue and white) These are tiny, pre-wired and are plug and play. I haven't decided exactly where I'm going to install them - but they are really small (the unit is maybe 1/8 inch) and there are 4 individual lights per unit. I'm thinking maybe one bank soewhere near the general alarm area and the other near the elevator. My tests indicate this will look great - not completely accurate - but will add a little 'animation' to the ship. 

Keep up the good work guys....I cannot believe some of the builds I'm seeing. Truly inspirational. 

Mark


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I have similar things from the dollar store, fading, flashing and flickering lights so will be using them to give it some life. I may be able to do a simple cmos example or two as well.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

mmmmp said:


> >Have you thought about the possibility of using one of those extra core light kits as a >source of fiber optic lights that randomly blink? ...<
> 
> I had a 'spare' set of Police chaser micro LEDS.(blue and white) These are tiny, pre-wired and are plug and play. I haven't decided exactly where I'm going to install them - but they are really small (the unit is maybe 1/8 inch) and there are 4 individual lights per unit. I'm thinking maybe one bank soewhere near the general alarm area and the other near the elevator. My tests indicate this will look great - not completely accurate - but will add a little 'animation' to the ship.
> 
> ...


With some fiber optic's you could have a field-day with it, please post pictures of your ultimate solution.......:wave:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Model Man said:


> I have similar things from the dollar store, fading, flashing and flickering lights so will be using them to give it some life. I may be able to do a simple cmos example or two as well.


Love your videos.......:thumbsup: But please talk about the need to be grounded when working with any electronics. So many tell the horror of installing some kind of lighting only to have it fail......:drunk: ESD, "Electrostatic Discharge", will kill anyone's day if an electronic affect gets zapped. If someone is just using incandescent lamps and a battery, it's not a problem, but add any type of electronics and not be grounded while handling it and you could kill it right then or cause a "Latent failure", that's when it craps-out days or months after you sealed it up. Just a thought......:wave:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

teslabe said:


> ...But please talk about the need to be grounded when working with any electronics...


Done! And I will mention it a few times over the coming sessions as I dig deep into the lighting.

And speaking of lighting, here is a new batch of vids covering light boxes, backrooms, styrene slicing followed by the first fiber optic installation and lighting test!

(Parts 6 and 7 are uploading tonight and should be posted by the morning.)


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Looking good, Tom.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's the last two in this flight log. I'll incorporate those notes you sent me, Paul, into the next round of work which is already underway.

These two vids show off the fiber install better and I run an led around the system for a glimpse of how things may look! I think there's a minor idea about pre-cutting the plastic in at least once case of the PE install.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Tom,

This is very informative info for someone like me that has NEVER lit up a kit before! Very nice how you are showing the steps that you are taking to accomplish this. No doubt, that this kit requires a lot of prep to get the final results!

Will this actually have many different battery power sources or will it all tie into a single 110V outlet that will be DC converted somehow?

Keep up the great work! 

I'm still waiting for the LED's from China to arrive but I have since received the small earth magnets and they will work out great as you have already shown!

MMM


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I'll be using a wall wart as I won't be flying this model around the apartment (too often). Going to the wall instead of a battery will allow me to use any amount of lights I want with no battery limitations. I'll be picking out a power supply soon. I just fixed the first dozen leds to the hull last night.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Much to my surprise, I did some initial lighting test with the ceiling. Here are the first dozen leds installed and how they look. I've got a few more to install, but a good start.


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## GlennME (Aug 4, 2001)

This has been a fantastic series of videos Model Man. A very sincere thanks for taking the time and trouble to make them and post them. I'm sure you've saved us a lot of grief by pointing out potential pitfalls during construction.

Later this year, Moebius are releasing 1/35 scale versions of the Pod and Chariot. One thing I'm thinking about is placing the Pod inside the J2. I think it would look great to remove the top of the J2 to reveal everything in its proper location, assuming the Pod fits in the provided space.

Thanks again for a great construction guide.

Glenn 

.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

If there's a 1/35 pod, then I will try to make accommodations for it now.

PS. I should have a new update by the weekend and there will be a new fusion core review from a company called TenaControls.


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## Kila2000 (Mar 12, 2010)

Righto, so I'm only new here and have been lurking round the site lookig at various things. I'm really enjoying these vids from you Tom, they are providing a great set of ideas for me as I launch back into modeling and into lighting kits. My DS9 was to be my first attempt at lighting but I feel I should practice on a few smaller things. Anyway, thanks Model Man Tom for these great vids, I've watched each one so far and have enjoyed them all. Looking forward to the next one.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks guys, here's the next round. 

I've set up some tubes for the leds around the perimeter of the floor, however, the major brunt of this thrust is slicing styrene. The doors must go!


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## XMAN64 (Dec 30, 2009)

These videos are sent from model heaven........This Jupiter 2 model is what got me back into model building and these videos are an inspiration.(My hat's off to you Tom)( I have always loved this ship since I first saw it as a kid and now I love it even more.)


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

_This is one awesome build! Thank you for your videos!_ :wave:


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Looking good Tom! You're doing a GREAT job on this project!

Question, when you selected the power supply, did this come from any place in particular? (cheap source) Where did you look for it or what should be searched for to find one? I may decide to use 110V power supply instead of a battery as you can get many more LED's to operate at a given time. I will not be flying my J2 around the room so a 110v plug would work out better. 

My LED's just arrived from China...they took a couple of weeks to get here but it was no rush on my part so that's good too!

Thanks for ALL the great tips!:thumbsup:

MMM


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## WmTodd (Feb 11, 2010)

Something I've been meaning to ask, and I guess here is as good as anyplace, regarding power supplies...wired vs battery, etc.

What about rechargeable battery packs? It seems a good, "powerful" one that everything is wired into that can be charged with an AC adaptor (with a port in one of the landing gear wells, for example) would be a neat way to go...provided that you find one that can physically fit into the model. I remember seeing a whole wall of choices at the electronics store, designed for remote control race cars, IIRC. 

But then again, I am a n00b, and I may be putting the cart before the horse.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks for the words, all. 

MMM:
I get my power supplies at tag sales for a dollar or less. Any old wall wart from a phone or whatever will work. I've got a couple dozen of various ratings on hand so I can browse the library and pick which is most appropriate for any given model's needs. People practically throw these things away. I don't see the point in paying retail prices for them (maybe there's an exceptional exception out there, but 99/9999999% of the time, no).

This is the main place I like to look here in L.A. You likely have something vaguely similar lurking around N.J. But jsut walk down the street when your neighbor does their next tag sale and I bet you walk away with at least one.





WMT:
As to a rechargeable battery packs. I guess it could be possible under very explicit circumstances... You couldn't just put 4 AA batteries in a charger and put that in the model. But maybe something like a cordless phone battery set up could work where the model rests on a base. I won't hypothesize beyond those notions. I's a question for someone smarter than me. 
--------------------

New video with more styrene work coming up! A nifty fusion core light boxing setup I lifted from that Japanese builder who was marveled over a few weeks ago here at HT and the back rooms are setting up rather nicely. 

Things are rapidly coming together and the project should start to snowball quite soon.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Tom - great idea about the cast off wall warts. Some of them have higher amp ratings than you can normally get from the Shack or even a good place like You Do It. I will be keeping that in mind.

If one were to seal up rechargables in a model, it would be fairly straight forward to use a DPDT switch (or a separate switch) to isolate the batteries from the circuitry so you can plug the charger into the kit.


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

WmTodd said:


> Something I've been meaning to ask, and I guess here is as good as anyplace, regarding power supplies...wired vs battery, etc.
> 
> What about rechargeable battery packs? It seems a good, "powerful" one that everything is wired into that can be charged with an AC adaptor (with a port in one of the landing gear wells, for example) would be a neat way to go...provided that you find one that can physically fit into the model. I remember seeing a whole wall of choices at the electronics store, designed for remote control race cars, IIRC.
> 
> But then again, I am a n00b, and I may be putting the cart before the horse.



Wmtodd
I brought this up a while back heres some info from that thread hope it helps 


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=281227


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## WmTodd (Feb 11, 2010)

Ah, thanks! WHen I get a moment I am going to photograph a little LED contraption I pulled out of an Ikea child's nightlight...more on this later.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

You guys didn't think I forgot about this did you? 

Here's a quick review of where things have gotten to in the last week. First off, I'm trying out a new camera and while the quality is there, I can't white balance it to the light bulbs, so this video is a bit different looking than the rest. Also the microphone is different, so I'll be going back to my usual camera for the rest of this series.

This video covers light boxing the fusion core, a quick look at nearly all of the photo etch installed, the back rooms and other areas fully built, some big 2mm fiber optics dropped into one computer station, most all of the sprues have been stripped, work on the clear styrene has begun, a few more pieces such as, but not limited to, the radar dish and central piloting station are assembled, and finally a big dry fit of nearly the entire ship. There is almost no more assembly that can be done w/o hauling out the airbrush, so expect some painting videos coming up after I do a full session on what this overview covers!

As always, thanks for watching!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Just collecting the TSDS reviews into the master fold here. 

The second fusion core review (of up to six of them) is now uploading and will get it's own thread until it's time for the next review. 

Ill be shooting and processing the promised vids from the last J2 installment over the next few days and am looking to have them up by Sunday. Stay tuned!


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

So, the company does not give you any suggestions as to how to store the battery or were to place the switch?


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

starmanmm said:


> So, the company does not give you any suggestions as to how to store the battery or were to place the switch?


I'm not sure that any company gives the option where to place the power or switch, this is left to the builder


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Sometimes they do suggest as to where to place the switch or batteries. Just wondered if this produced did.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Nope. No suggestions from either of the two core submissions yet. If I mentioned anything, it was just me thinking out loud. 

I just taped the next installment detailing all I did in that last video round up. 

Got my new air compressor and tank system in. Strategic painting must now ensue.

To note is that my computer is undergoing surgery from now thru sunday. I'm swapping new drives in to the system. So as that procedure allows, I'll be doing updates. And it means that while waiting for files to transfer and terabytes of drive to format, I'll be gettin' some modeling in!

PS. @$99 for 1.5tb each, shipped, it's way now the time to up your drives. My build notes said that I got a few weeks shy of 3 full yrs using these four 500gb WD drives. Not bad. Dropping four 1.5tb in as a raid 5 will hopefully last me until the 3tb come on the market and drop to decent prices.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

So I made one fatal error on these videos... I had some music playing in the background. Therefore, this set of vids will not be in the dvd series. I do not have the copyright to use them...

However, these vids are not crucial to the building, but could be handy for reference. 

So consider these as a full 720p preview of the master files that will be included with the dvd series.

The most popular of the four should be the fusion core light box in #3. My plan was to install both cores to see how they look. 

The TenaControls core fit like a glove. The TSDS board would require some light box trimming to fit. However, as I put that core away from the last review, the power connections snapped -as has been reported with this v1 board. I put it away thinking I would deal with it later. Well, much to my embarrassment, I had not fixed the issue in time for this. 

So my sincere apologies to Henry on that flub. However, I was able to show how the core would fit in a light box set up. That is vid #4

The first two vids are more of an overview where I look at every part I've worked on, make an assessment to it's condition and state what will happen to it next.

Overall, I am at a point where painting must occur, so stay tuned and thanks for watching!


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Model Man said:


> The most popular of the four should be the fusion core light box in #3. My plan was to install both cores to see how they look.
> 
> The TenaControls core fit like a glove. The TSDS board would require some light box trimming to fit. However, as I put that core away from the last review, the power connections snapped -as has been reported with this v1 board. I put it away thinking I would deal with it later. Well, much to my embarrassment, I had not fixed the issue in time for this.
> 
> So my sincere apologies to Henry on that flub. However, I was able to show how the core would fit in a light box set up. That is vid #4


Well, I did offer to repair the core for you free of charge. It only happened on about a dozen of them. I would not say this is "many" as you've said in your video! If you'd still like to send it back, I'll be glad to repair it immediately.

Also -- is it just me, or does the other fusion core light have the chase sequence rotating backwards??? It sure looks like it in the video.

Version 2 of my fusion core/dome chase lighting system, shipping about May 10th, will feature the following:

* Much more solid plastic "connectors" rather than simply soldered bare wire.
* A 4th lighting mode.
* For future use, a removeable "upgrade" programming chip.
* LED's are mounted on the upper side, so it should recess onto the round raised circle on the inside of the fusion core. 

All at no additional charge!

--Henry


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Model Man

Besides TSDS and Voodoo FX, how many fusion core kits are avaiable at aftermarket and how many have you already tested?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Engine lighting kits are (about to be) available from eight that I can count. 
All have different features and very different costs.
1. tsds
2. tenacontrols
3. fedoratron
4. anothercoilgun
5. fuzzynoggin
6. voodoo
7. JAI
8. and Brad B here at HT is making a generic board that he will sell at cost and the plans, for those willing to totally DIY, here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=287860

I've only looked at the first two in the list, but have strong commitments from fedoratron, anothercoilgun and BradB. JAI seemed very interested, voodoo said he'd think about it and fuzzy never got back to me.

Of course, if your purchase must happen today and deliver monday, then there are only 2 options, tenacontrols and voodoo. tsds has a pending delivery of version2 of his board, fedoratron, bradb and coil gun are in the last stages of prototyping theirs, and jai and fuzzy are hit or miss if you get a hold of them it seems.


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Great job Tom...!
I honestly never even noticed the music in the background. I know it was playing but I was soooo interested in what you were talking about...it never really registered what the music was that was playing.

Dumb question...what type of marker did you use to mark against the black side of the bottom of hull? Is that some kind of white paint marker? It is a great idea for reference to do that and I would have never thought about doing so until your build and I like it!!:thumbsup:

Can't wait to see your review of other fusion cores as I still have that add-on to get for mine.

MMM


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I have some white paint markers, but in this case, it's just a silver Sharpie with standard red sharpie over that where seen. It was very useful.

I usually have some kind of music, tv or movie going in the background when I work or tape my vlogs, but since the plan is to sell this series as a dvd, nothing extraneous can be on there. I'm working on my own bg music that will go under all the boring talk-only that has been going on. Simple beats, minimal harmonies so it won't interrupt the important stuff.


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## Tim H. (Jun 23, 2009)

What a challenge, beyond my skills and fascinating to watch. Thanks.

An airplane friend of mine uses Dynamo labelmaker tape as a guide when he's scribing panel lines or cutting hatches, provides a nice straight line and if the blade jumps it cuts into the tape instead of the model.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Model Man said:


> Fusion cores are (about to be) available from eight that I can count.
> All have different features and very different costs.
> 1. tsds
> 2. tenacontrols
> ...


Thanks Model Man. I hope you can test all of them. 
You are doing an amazing job and helping thousands of modelers around the world.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Some of those vendors I have heard of.... other nope. When you get a chance... maybe websites to check out there stuff?


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> I have some white paint markers, but in this case, it's just a silver Sharpie with standard red sharpie over that where seen. It was very useful.
> 
> I usually have some kind of music, tv or movie going in the background when I work or tape my vlogs, but since the plan is to sell this series as a dvd, nothing extraneous can be on there. I'm working on my own bg music that will go under all the boring talk-only that has been going on. Simple beats, minimal harmonies so it won't interrupt the important stuff.


Hey Modelman! When's the next installment? Your videos tend to be habit forming!:thumbsup:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Star: I'll get to work on the comprehensive link list for you.

lisk: How about now?

The Freezer Tube wall lighting.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Got some desperately needed admin done with 12hrs on the website. 
A nice tweaking, it's completely graphic'ed and videoed up. 
Everything works that should work.


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## bradb (May 22, 2008)

First off, nice work Tom! Sorry I'm a bit late to the party, this is a lot of stuff to digest.



Paulbo said:


> Tom - great idea about the cast off wall warts. Some of them have higher amp ratings than you can normally get from the Shack or even a good place like You Do It. I will be keeping that in mind.


This is a great idea. I do it all the time too. But you should follow up with a voltage regulator in the model (or on it's stand), if you're not using a regulated wall wart (see the dangers of unregulated wall warts).

Wire up something like a LM317 - use the Calculator to determine the resistors you need (which depends on what voltage you want).
Add a couple of caps and a diode, and you'll get nice, clean power (w/ protection against miswiring) for $5 in parts (or often less).

This does require using a wall wart with a slightly higher rating that you intend to use but that's not usually an issue.

Probably not needed but it seems like cheap insurance to me. Plus it allows you to use a wide range of very cheap power supplies without worrying too much about output voltage.



Paulbo said:


> If one were to seal up rechargables in a model, it would be fairly straight forward to use a DPDT switch (or a separate switch) to isolate the batteries from the circuitry so you can plug the charger into the kit.


Of course if you use something like the max1555 it will charge a Li Poly battery in the circuit so no switch is needed (it will also trickle charge when the battery is full, and Li Poly doesn't have a memory problem like nicads).

The downside to the Max1555 is it's hard to get (some RoHS nonsense), only handles a single-cell battery, and doesn't charge very fast. The last two being a non-issue for this application.

But it does allow you to add rechargables to a model for about $20 (including battery). 

Brad.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks for the note, Brad. I usually over resistor my led's but still don't know what could fry them if I changed up P.U.'s.

Here's two more installments which finish off the lower deck lights. Next up is some painting from what I can tell.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

This is the last video in Session Seven.





Session Eight covers some primer and prepping parts for paint. It should be live tonight.

Session Nine is processing now and should be up tomorrow sometime. For that one, I've inserted the legs, installed all the primered walls and talk about the red-globe-thing on the computer wall and doing some brass mods to the freezer wall details.

And speaking of the Freezer Tubes, I've got some Freezer Folk for ya uploading today. Stay tuned for the first vid review of the Crow's Nest figures!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Flight Log #8 covering prepping, priming all the parts and painting some.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Session Nine is up! 















This batch is mostly a dry fit of all primed parts with a look at all the lights functioning. However, part 3 details an idea for adding brass mesh to the freezer wall panels. If done right, I think it really powers up the look, if done wrong, well just look at how my first attempt turned out.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> Session Nine is up!
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-113QXu3Ag
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nslBovAzqjI
> ...


Excellent group of videos as usual Tom!:thumbsup: Its really coming together!
Mike


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## Tim H. (Jun 23, 2009)

With all the handling of parts for lighting and assembling over the last several sessions, would you need to wash them again before priming to remove finger oils?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks Mike.

Tim, I've never experienced that problem on any model yet, which is not to say it couldn't happen. One of the first things I do is paint all the parts with a base coat of standard black, and then white, enamel rattle cans. Oils build up on bare plastic very well as they are not porous. I would suspect that paint, whatever kind, absorbs alot of that kind of thing. That being said, there could be paint issues now that you mention it, so I will keep an eye out for any oddities. I don't expect any, though if there are, they should be very minor. 

Resin and vinyl kits are guaranteed to sit in the soapy bath, but this is the first plastic kit I've washed -and I only did so as a number of people hit problems with the mold release Moebius used. I think mold releases are far more extreme than simple skin oils. I'll defintiely think about this more. I don't think I've heard of anyone having this problem before.

-----------------------------------
I dropped some yellow leds in the ceiling and killed one of the white leds that was there. I was hoping to do a highly surgical strike, but I wound up pulling the entire led out of the situation and rewiring around it.

Here's the blow-by-blow.


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Model Man, Have you also reviewed, "Fantastic (Moebius) Jupiter 2 Buildup" as part of your inspiration?

http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/external_drive/folder/1296521.html


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

WEAPON X said:


> Model Man, Have you also reviewed, "Fantastic (Moebius) Jupiter 2 Buildup" as part of your inspiration?
> 
> http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/external_drive/folder/1296521.html


He's the inspiration for lightboxing the core. There's a full thread here glorifying his work on that model. I don't remember the thread title.


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## XMAN64 (Dec 30, 2009)

Keep it going Model Man.....your series is the best!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

The first of the airbrushing!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I did some back o' the napkin math and the vids so far total up to 7.8 hours. Roughly. That translates to 4 dvd's so far and counting. I think there will be a deluxe and economy version of the package. Maybe three levels. A 1 disc version, the unedited version and the ultra version which includes all the master HD cuts.

Congrats to anyone that's sat thru all the video so far! I'm glad I'm not the only one.


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Model Man said:


> I did some back o' the napkin math and the vids so far total up to 7.8 hours. Roughly. That translates to 4 dvd's so far and counting. I think there will be a deluxe and economy version of the package. Maybe three levels. A 1 disc version, the unedited version and the ultra version which includes all the master HD cuts.
> 
> Congrats to anyone that's sat thru all the video so far! I'm glad I'm not the only one.


_Note, for I found *all* your videos on the Moebius J2 to be most informative. I deeply and sincerely appreciate all of your efforts in the J2 project. _

_Much continued success and Be Well,_

_- B._


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> I did some back o' the napkin math and the vids so far total up to 7.8 hours. Roughly. That translates to 4 dvd's so far and counting. I think there will be a deluxe and economy version of the package. Maybe three levels. A 1 disc version, the unedited version and the ultra version which includes all the master HD cuts.
> 
> Congrats to anyone that's sat thru all the video so far! I'm glad I'm not the only one.


Any new chapters coming?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks, Weapon.

LisK, yes. I was away for the past week and will get back to this model this weekend.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

I've been greatly enjoying these and they're a real help to people like me, the modeling-challenged. Personally, I'm very anxious to see how you deal with masking the floor to paint the brown outer edge. This is something I'm pretty stumped by.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Peacefield said:


> I've been greatly enjoying these and they're a real help to people like me, the modeling-challenged. Personally, I'm very anxious to see how you deal with masking the floor to paint the brown outer edge. This is something I'm pretty stumped by.


Hi -- 

The easiest way to do that is to either get the PGMS vinyl-paint masking kit, or snag my decals -- they come with a pre-cut piece of vinyl, so all you do is paint the whole floor, and then apply the pre-cut circle!

Tom has both of these add-on kits, and will likely discuss both of them in an upcomming video and you can choose for yourself!

--Henry


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

g_xii said:


> Hi --
> 
> The easiest way to do that is to either get the PGMS vinyl-paint masking kit, or snag my decals -- they come with a pre-cut piece of vinyl, so all you do is paint the whole floor, and then apply the pre-cut circle!
> 
> ...


And I appreciate the high quality of your products. I've looked at the vinyl floor and have thought about that for some time. Certainly, it will simplify things and keep a sharp edge. What I hope to do, though, is paint the floor and coat it all in a few layers of high gloss. So I'll probably do masking, but who knows. I'll anxiously await Tom's reviews. Thanks.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks for the nod, Peacefield. I'll indeed pull out all the aftermarket parts for masking the floor. I am getting to that point very quickly actually and can't forget to go over those options! 

In the meantime, yes it has been awhile since my last set of vids and I do apologize for that. About 5 weeks slipped away from the last work to the most current. 

While I'm not making excuses, a trip home to New England on the rumor that a long lost love was in town proved to be accurate and with some persuasion, this ModelMan has talked that ModelGal into moving here to sunny california with me. All of my time has been devoted to skyping with her everyday since my return. The greatest possible news is that she is also deeply attached to her hobbies (sci-fi, computers, fine art, sewing/costuming, etc), so we are most compatible in that regard. She loves my devotion to my hobbies and I love hers. However, all the video chatting has taken time away from the modeling! My apologies on this front, but hopefully some allowances can be made where love is concerned. 

With that, I have drilled many, many holes and broken many, many drill bits this past week. Here is an installment on that task. 











Next up, I'm putting parts together to see how things stand. With these freezer wall holes drilled, fiber opticing with strands from the fiber optic store is also in order. I see a possible dilemma in terms of where to run the fibers, but will discuss that when I get to it.

As always, thanks for tuning in! :thumbsup:


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Looking good, as always, Tom.

Although it's too late for you now, an easier way to do the holes is rather than drill each individual hole, just cut out a rectangular opening that's smaller than the etch piece, then drop the etch over it.

I show this for doing the Viper cockpit for using the backlight films, but it works just as well with fiber optics. It will require using more adhesive so that you create a more rigid base.

http://www.youtube.com/paragrafixmodeling#p/a/u/0/eIUJKzC3RME


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I thought of that after I started drillng and the brass was already down. While drilling, my thought was that cutting the hole a dash too large could cause problems. I might have momentarily mused on that in the videos, I ferget now.

The thickness of the plastic is particularly thick at those panels and getting a clean, precise cut may or may not have been difficult. Too late for me to know. However, I expect, that giving each fiber it's own hole will help keep them in place over the long term. One big empty slot would have given them much more wiggle room and less area to cling to.

Nevertheless, 'hole' lotsa fun!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I thought I was done w/ drilling, but I decided to take this model one step further. 

In the landing wells, each wall insert has four circular 'pits' or dents in them. I drilled them out last night. They are the exact diameter of brass tubes I have in stock. Those tubes will each house a very, very dim led. 

Each led is going to need, probably, 10k+ of resistance to get it as dim as I am looking to. With 8 per well, I want a bare ambient light to flood the area. One 'normal' alone would be too bright, so this should be a trick.

I will try a color combo to create a 'new' color for the bays. I don't want any standard white, but something on the warm or cool green side. Don't know yet. Experiments will be the determining factor.

If tests don't work out, I'll simply card the backs up and call it worth the try and no harm done.


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## rowdylex (Jan 19, 2010)

Where have you gone Model Man? I haven't had my weekly injection of creative Jupiter 2 model building videos for a while now.

Keep up the good work.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

I believe when you re-read post 95, that may give you an idea of what he is up to. 

Wouldn't blame him at all..... somethings in life is more important. 

He'll be back for he knows that we are all awaiting more of these vids!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Indeed yes I do know (and highly appreciate!) that folks are out there wondering what I am up to and when I am getting back to this kit. 

Two days ago I shot a half-hour's worth of video. The memory card filled up mid-way and I have some information I need to reshoot. 

On the computer side of things, I was hit with malware back in august and my system is now patched enough to get around that, however some licensing issues with key software cannot be resolved without a full drive wipe. As this is something I wanted to do anyway, that's not a problem. As it's something I didn't want to do until winter, it is. On that front, I'll be going 64bit by the end of September, which necessitates the drive wipe and I'll be upping various software as well. 

Given all that, I'll be posting the next few installments in their raw, hi-def format and then resize once the computer is fully armed and operational again. So a few quick edits are ahead of me and some more shooting this weekend.

The J2's legs are assembled and the majority of the next slog is wiring (up to) 54 leds into the computer wall! It's gonna look fantastic! I have all I need but am shy five yellow leds to do the wall, so I dropped $50 on a thousand pack of (various color) 3mm to swell the stock back up again.

So while some time has gone by, my 'troubles' with getting the Jupiter off he ground are nothing compared to what the Robinson's had to deal with. While they did have Robot to help out with a lot of things, thankfully I don't have my own Dr. Smith mucking things up! I'll get the next installments up this weekend!!!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Next video coming up will be taking stock of the leds I have on hand, finding I'm short on yellow and more are now on order. Also, some simple soldering.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

And here's the rest for this batch. Well, there might be one more to round off something. Gimme a few days to check.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

Yay!!!!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I was recently asked what's up. This wanders off-topic, but figured I'd respond here as others may wonder too.

The Computer remains beleagured. The Win7 install disk sits in it's case staring at me. My 7 experience on a laptop has not been pleasant yet, so am cherishing my beloved desktop XP as long as possible. I'll be switching to the laptop for J2 work this coming week. 

I have created and amassed 186gb/553 files/61 folders. About half-way through the build, 500gb in toto is not unreasonable. Of course, the video is a much smaller fraction. I have multiple copies of the same footage in several sizes and formats. Nevermind all the logistics, design, support and stuff there still is to do and then some so-on on top of that too! :tongue:








-----------

Today happens to be a personal milestone. 

July '07 my Valkyrie and I were mini-van'ed by a Zentradi. 
This very afternoon, the last of all the bills and bull was settled. 
Case-freaking-closed. The end to a chapter of my life.









Meanwhile, a few months ago, a new chapter w/ a lost friend, now matures
to the promises of a life together. 









04/94 - 9/18/10 Morgana, love of my live, had her last trip to the vet's. 
The following monday, a coworker came in w/ a kitten found dying in his driveway that weekend. 
It was the pound unless someone took her. I did. 
She was 3-4 weeks old. She's now going on 6-8 wks old. 
Codename: Kittenpuss.









The last few months have been full of unexpected change and overall happiness. Model craft has, admittedly, slipped a notch. In the next 5 months or sooner, I expect to get a new apt. There will be some downtime. 
---------------

Obligations paid, new ones taken on. 

The Jupiter is an obligation I daily do not forget. I have not dropped one drop of glue on another model since starting this one. I will not drop another drop on a model until I finish. 

There is one video on hold from a couple weeks ago. The bench environ needs a refresher, but all is go. A new light sequencer and a host of other J2 goodies has come in from another vendor, Fedoratron and I am refining the Project Website design as I write this.
---------

My expectation is to get some work done before the start of November in 9 days (already?!?), but that will be to set me up for a mid-month target of serious work. At the latest, I want to have this done before the anniversary! Let the DVD not take nearly so long! 

And a note of thanks to the youtube community. (Hopefully a few make it this way.) The 700+ vids have been watched over one third of a million times in 2yrs now, the 2,000th subscriber is relatively imminent and I hit the stretch towards 1,000 vids. 

*---> *To the hobbytalkers, I've got an event in mind, but more details need to be worked out. Just wanted to whet the appetite. Some kind of contest/giveaway/raffle/chance/opportunity/event/thing of some kind of situation.

:wave:


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Glad to see that one bad event has been replaced with better times and also... congrads on your youtube fame.


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## AF1963 (Aug 28, 2010)

Hello ModelMan, a Youtube fan here who also found this forum. Can not wait to see some more Jupiter 2 work. The suspense is killing me.

Condolences on Morgana.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks, guys.
-----------------
Here's a sneak peak at what I've been up to the last couple days. Vids are processing now!

48, 3mm leds couldn't have been more crammed together









Slow RGB flashers installed in the Freezer tube bottoms.









Lighting in the landing wells. Don't know about accuracy, but I'm liking the effect. Wait 'til you see the vids!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

The first of 12 vids in this set is now live. It'll be a few days before all are ready. I'll post in groups as they come up. 

It's good to be back on this kit again!!!


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## rowdylex (Jan 19, 2010)

And its good to have you back! Keep up the great work


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Love the color pattern on the circuit panel. Not too many pay attention to that, it adds a lot of character to the flight deck!


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## skinnyonce (Dec 17, 2009)

Looks great Tom,
Im thinking I'll use 1.8mm leds instead of the 3mm.. just to take the stress out of the build, Me being a rookie and all,,


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks, guys. Getting the lights -and their relative brightness!- is important to me on this one.
----------------------


I've edited my previous post to include all six vids in the first batch. That covers lighting the lower hull and is done now, with a few random more leds to go. (Exception is the fusion core, it's own situation entirely.) I'll be putting the legs in as late as possible on this build. 

---The next two vids cover the rgb flashers in the freezing tubes and some general ceiling thoughts. As those upload, I am now getting some critical airbrushing done. The following four videos and last in this immediate set covers lighting up the computer wall.

-Skinny, For me, the 3mm leds were a perfect fit as their tight-packed space contributes to the stability of the whole. 1.8mm will fit much better, but they won't support themselves like 3mm will.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

So that was the last of last week's batch of work. I should have this week's uploading by the end of the week. It is going to cover painting, masking and the like. Thanks to everyone for watching!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here are a few more vids. There are more to come that directly relate to these, they just haven't been shot yet.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

Thanks for this latest flurry of videos, Tom. I'm anxious to see how you deal with masking the floor as well as some of the vinyl options.


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## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

Keep up the great work! You're really inspiring us all! Couldn't find the consortium airbrushing videos you recommended on youtube, can you post the link? So much information I have not been able to view all your JII video. In one of the video's did you do the actual hookup of the fiber optic to the led? Very interested in that operation.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Peace- Masking and vinyl will be coming up in the immediate future.

Cajun- I ahven't hooked up any fiber-to-leds yet. The operation is simple enough. You've noticed a bunch of aluminum tubes under the floor? LEDs go in one end, fiber in the other. I'll be showing it when I get there. I gotta do all the painting now so I can glue the walls to the floor. 

I have an idea of what color leds are going where, so it's a matter of lighting it up and threading the fiber into the appropriate slot. 

Could you tell me which video I mention SMConsortium in? I've got so much material to comb thru it gets difficult when I forget to annotate immediately and have to dig into things later. Cheers.

But here is the first in SMC's airbrush series. You should be able to link from there.





(PS: I wanna thank you again for personally making this project possible!)


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Just a quick note that I've run out of several colors (mostly 1706 and the 'wood' floor color). Of all the colors my lhs is out of and has on back order, guess which two they are? Yup! 

So I've moved on to some other pieces right now. Posting in time for the end of the year is the drilling of all the holes from the three command console 'bricks' that sit on top. I'll be hitting some other minor small pieces too while I have some painting downtime.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Bam!


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## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

Model Man. Thanks for all the detail about the drilling, expecially the tip about the phonebook. I'm going to use that and try to clean up a bit. Curious with a question. I know you reviewed a Tamiya Handydrill, was that not a good product for this job?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I love that tamiya drill. The downside is the collet is a one-size-fits-few collet and submillimeter is out of the range. I wrote tamiya and got a reply that there is only one collet and that is that. 

I thought to sleeve brass or aluminum around smaller bits, but being in America means we are imperial and Japan being in Japan means they are metric. No dice. The tamiya would have been far less scary because dremel's rpms are fast and would go into and thru fingers VERY easily.

A youtuber suggested using a jig for such work and that is certainly a very valid point. I go for casual expediency far more often than concerned safety. A major flaw in my mindset.


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## scifikid (Aug 22, 2010)

Hey model man,
just let you know i have the tamiya drill and your right about the collet.
I went to AC moore and bought there pin drill it came with 4 different collets
and the smallest one is good for micro drill bits. I use them on my tamiya drill all the time. those drill bits are to small for a dremel and scary when they break. The biggest kick with my tamiya drill is that you have to put it together like a model :thumbsup:

P.S. love the build you are doing. my j2 is still in the box. 
doing other models right know. building a nx01 with a drydock display
lighted of course :thumbsup:


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> I love that tamiya drill. The downside is the collet is a one-size-fits-few collet and submillimeter is out of the range. I wrote tamiya and got a reply that there is only one collet and that is that.
> 
> I thought to sleeve brass or aluminum around smaller bits, but being in America means we are imperial and Japan being in Japan means they are metric. No dice. The tamiya would have been far less scary because dremel's rpms are fast and would go into and thru fingers VERY easily.
> 
> A youtuber suggested using a jig for such work and that is certainly a very valid point. I go for casual expediency far more often than concerned safety. A major flaw in my mindset.


Tom, a quick question-for fiber optics, what sizes are most common on your build so far? .25, .50. 75mm? I am about to order some from the Fiber Optic Store and want to get an idea about the widths I'd need most.
Thanks!
Mike


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I've used a little of everything so far. Your best bet is to get one of the sampler packs that give you some of almost all sizes. Once you see how much you're going thru on a given size, order a roll of that to supplement your supplies.

I've been drilling all my holes for .5mm, but I think I may stick some .25mm in those holes and seal them up with white glue.

Overall though, my fave is .5mm. It's easy to work with, not too small to be a hassle and not too thick to be difficult to bend. Of course, it all comes down to how it looks in scale.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> I've used a little of everything so far. Your best bet is to get one of the sampler packs that give you some of almost all sizes. Once you see how much you're going thru on a given size, order a roll of that to supplement your supplies.
> 
> I've been drilling all my holes for .5mm, but I think I may stick some .25mm in those holes and seal them up with white glue.
> 
> Overall though, my fave is .5mm. It's easy to work with, not too small to be a hassle and not too thick to be difficult to bend. Of course, it all comes down to how it looks in scale.


Thanks Tom!
Good advice!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

To Skinnyonce, Cajjunwolfman and the six vendors that submitted products for review, my commitment to you and the J2 project has not wavered. 

As I said up front when I took this project on, life can get in the way of the fun stuff sometimes and that I couldn't commit to a definite timeline for completion. And as I stated at the time, I would not, have not and will not drop another bead of glue onto another kit until the J2 is off my bench and completed.

In this recent case, work has been incessant since xmas (60+hrs every week non-stop) and the demands of a committed relationship take time away from the hobby. If this hobby were my full time job, the J2 would have been done long ago. On a good note, my fiance likes my hobbies so having her support is a tremendous bonus.

Thanks for your continued patience.


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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

hi tom
thankyou for devoting your time to creating this thread
following your video tips and recommendations has been invaluable 
your doing an outstanding job


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## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

Model Man:

My concern and goal for you is that you be concerned about yourself. The most important priority is your personal mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual well being. When you have that well being consolidated, the JII project will come along. I’m confident the JII will meet the high professional and personal standard you have set so far. The project will be accomplished in the time frame it takes, and will be done when it’s done.


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Cajjunwolfman said:


> Model Man:





Cajjunwolfman said:


> My concern and goal for you is that you be concerned about yourself. The most important priority is your personal mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual well being. When you have that well being consolidated, the JII project will come along. I’m confident the JII will meet the high professional and personal standard you have set so far. The project will be accomplished in the time frame it takes, and will be done when it’s done.


@ Cajjunwolfman, Well said! ...Ditto to Model Man! :thumbsup:


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## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

Best of the Time/Space Continuum to you!

In the interest of simplifying my own life I’m going to sell off a lot of my model collection. I want to accomplish personal model goals by really finishing models, not daydream about ones on the shelf that someday I may build. I’m keeping the ones I really want to build. Naturally the Moebius JII will be one I keep. The main reference for the buildup will be using your quality videos. (I love step by step detail and excellent photography.) I’ve noticed some differences of the JII between different seasons of LIS. Which season (if any) is your video build based on? I want to get the appropriate colors and detail accessories.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks for everyone's support. Your thoughts are much appreciated.

I'm fully on the other side of an apartment move across town, my fiance is moving in around the holidays, work continues well enough though heavy hours do take their toll. 

And of course, I recently established Modeler's Brand Hobby Supplies website and Modeler's Brand Youtube Channel to bring low cost LED products to the most modest of means modelers amongst us.

That all being said, I've dug back into the J2. 

Model builds get put on hold for a variety of reasons in every modeler's life. The J2 was no different for me. One of the most crucial things you can do when this happens is to box it away effectively, safely and carefully. 

Flight Log 20 looks at what nearly a year of exposure in some cases, spills in other cases and what goes right and wrong.

By the way, the other aspect is keeping a good log so you can review what you were doing when you last left things off. I have these videos, hopefully you have at least written notes for reference. Hobby forums are so handy like that!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Cajjunwolfman said:


> ...I’ve noticed some differences of the JII between different seasons of LIS. Which season (if any) is your video build based on? I want to get the appropriate colors and detail accessories.



I don't know the ship that well. I know there are some significant differences, but couldn't say what belongs to what season without sitting down and taking notes. My build won't be that representational. If I ever got a good B9 kit, I would do that accurate to a particular season. I'm just a big B9 fan, I guess.

----

Here's Part 2/8 of the re-unboxing. In the previous video we saw what can happen to big parts when left exposed to the harsh elements of apartment living over the course of a year. 

This is a look at what happens when you prep some parts in sealed boxes/bags and what happens when they are left in an open box.






Next up, let's see if the lights still work! And we'll try a dry fit of the parts.

As mentioned, the biggest problem of putting a project to the side for awhile is that you lose track of where things were and what you were doing. Hopefully you took some notes. As of now, I know there is a pile of work to come, but what's the strategy to finishing this off? I have no idea at this point. However I do know that laying the parts out, fitting them in place and simply looking will reveal a plan.


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

I've just spent the morning reading this thread. 

ModelMan, I must agree with everyone that your effort and dedication to this project are outstanding. I can't wait to finish what's on my bench and get started on my J2.

I have the PL J2. If you or anyone else know, is that kit close enough to the Moebius one to follow your build? Or should I pick up the Moebius kit instead?

Thanks again,
James


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## flyingfrets (Oct 19, 2001)

James,

The Moebius kit is state of the art, and is incredibly detailed right out of the box. The PL version certainly has its fans, but comparitively speaking, is very toy-like next to the Moebius kit.

If you're only concerned with the exterior (and space is a consideration), the PL kit is probably fine. If you want the whole tricked out interior (well, upper deck anyway), the Moebius version is a *much* better starting point.

Just my 2 cents worth of free advice...


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

JamesInNC said:


> I've just spent the morning reading this thread.
> 
> I have the PL J2. If you or anyone else know, is that kit close enough to the Moebius one to follow your build? Or should I pick up the Moebius kit instead?


Thanks, James, I admire your determination to read thru this all! With over 100 vids in the series so far, I'm dreading the point when i have to re-watch this all for editing the 2hr version! 

I don't know the differences enough. I expect that you could simply jack what I'm doing here into that PL kit in some way.

Btw, fedoratron.com sells an led sequencer for the PL engine.

...

Part 3 and the strategy I was worried about in part 2 has evaporated and the path is now clearly lit! Amazing what a review can do to clarify things. So if you find yourself stuck or not knowing how to proceed, pull the parts out, start sticking them together and pondering. A procedure will map itself out in your mind.


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback. I bought the PL J2 at least 3 years ago when I went on a buying spree to acquire all the PL kits. They've all been sitting in storage since then.

Since MM's build is just to inspiring to pass up, guess I'll be purchasing the Moebius J2 as soon as I can.

Thanks again,
James


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

It's a fun build.

Next up:
Sandstorm!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

A fresh, thick, lucious primercoat. Is there anything as gorgeous?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

And here's a quick look at all the Aftermarket gear that has been submitted so far. I will need to have a deeper look at each of these to really remember what was going on with each one.






PGMS: Photo etch, Decals and vinyl masks
TSDS: Fusion Core, Decals and vinyl
Tena Controls: Circular LED sequencer
Brad Burleson: Circular LED sequencer
Fedoratron/Warm Plastic: Circular LED sequencer, LED 'Pulsator' and 'standard' sequencer.
The Crow's Nest: Freezer Tube Robinson Family Figures


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

OK. So I've spent much of December working on this model and have 6hrs of video to comb thru before posting here. 

However, as a year end wrap, here's the current status of the model as of a few hours ago. 






The vids showing how it got to this point will post over the coming weeks. As the backlog ebbs, I'll catch up and vids will be timely again.

My goal is to have this wrapping up by the 2nd anniversary. I began looking at the kit in Feb 2009, but work didn't really get moving until into March.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

This (recut vid) covers a big floor mod I never got around to posting about. 
It is also the first in the latest: Flight Log 21 "The December Groove".
Covering floor mods, painting, masking and all sorts of model building stuff!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Model Man

I have downloaded all of your videos, but because they are so much and are posted on several threads, I'm completely lost. 

Would you have a list of your videos in order to allow us to check out wich of them we have and wich we have not? 

Great job, as always!! :thumbsup:

Thanks and happy 2012!!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's a new one to add to the list, Fernando!






And here's the playlist link.
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC9A0E02733B23DCA&feature=viewall

It looks like the first 15 vids (117 total so far) weren't numbered precisely. However, those 15 vids ar ethings like covering the tools, initial strategy etc. Once the work actually began with vid 16, they are all labeled "Flight Log _n_: Part x/y" and should be easily sorted. A good thing too! The playlist page says total run time on these vids so far is 14+hours!!!

Also, this should be the only thread anywhere that has the complete list of vids.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*117 !?* 

I HAD ALREADY DOWNLOADED ABOUT 20 AND THOUGHT THEY WERE THE MAJORITY. 

I'D BETTER WATCH THEM FROM YOUR YOUTUBE PAGE. 

THANKS ANYWAY.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> *117 !?*
> 
> I HAD ALREADY DOWNLOADED ABOUT 20 AND THOUGHT THEY WERE THE MAJORITY.
> 
> ...


Mwu-hahahaha!

While there's more behind than ahead, cutting all this down to a single 2hr presentation is gonna be a feat! And all 14hrs so far is trimmed from the master footage into rough cuts, so I'm likely around 20+hrs of raw footage so far.

Btw, that 117 is now out of 900 vids uploaded to youtube in 3yrs!


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## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

Encouragement to you Model Man.

Hang in there! The Journey of the build is what we are all enjoying! You are making art. A labor of love, creativity, passion, sharing. I hope you are enjoying your creation of this most special 3D art form as much as the rest of us!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

It's been fun to be at this kit again, Cajj!
Some big strides have been made recently with the paint and full-blown electronics is in immediate sight. I'm beginning to envision some additional circuit layouts for some trick features. 

Up next, more floor adventures. When last I left, I was filling the back room floor with more floor and checking some parts over. 

I gotta say, the floor has been the bane of my life since I started working on it.


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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

hi tom
don't be discouraged 
though i agree with henry and papasmurf here i'm also learning a hell of a lot from your honest and candid videos showing precisely what happens if things go wrong along the way
we all make mistakes and your videos are going a long way in helping the novice from stuffing up this beautiful and complicated piece 
you're still doing a top job .. so when you come to do the dvd i hope you still include this in a what-not-to-do section though somewhat condensed


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

How about some airbrushing for a little while?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

One time, I used foamcore board to make a suburban street scene. "Maple Street", was what I was going to call it. I bought a bunch of 1/25th scale stuff to go with it, resin manhole covers, fire hydrants, even real lit street mini lights, and resin driveway panels to simulate cement and curbs and sewer drains. The plan was to make a horror scene with 1/25th scale VW beetles turning into spiders and causing mayhem. Well, anyway, it turned into a piece of sh**. I ended up throwing it away. 

But I always experiment with weird materials. And yes, I have used popsicle sticks. To limited success. Onward and upward, my good man!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's some airbrushing!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

to paraphrase...

How we deal with setbacks is at least as important as how we deal with successes.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Tom

Man, your ability to produce videos surpasses Hollywood! Keep posting. I'm watching them all.

And, thanks. :thumbsup:


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Tom, Kudos to your efforts, sir! Keep up the great work!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks, you two.
Moving on with the little things in a model's life...


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## fxshop (May 19, 2004)

Please Griff put stop to this madness, this has gone on way to long! Randy


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

I'm only going to say this one time - keep the Trolling comments to yourself. 

Should you have some _constructive_ criticism, that's one thing. I'm sure that Tom/ModelMan has thick enough skin for honest criticism. 

However, I no longer have any tolerance for this sort of immature behavior. Don't like what someone has to say? Ignore it - just move on to the next thread. That or take it to email because the next bit of Trolling of this type on the forums will get you a 7 Day Time Out - I don't care if you're a new member or a Lifetime Supporter. Take your juvenile attitude elsewhere because that's not what Hobby Talk is all about. 

If you have any questions on the issue? Well then, feel free to blow up my PM box.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

After this immediate series are the freezer walls, I think.

Also, a late vendor's J2 wares are reviewed, featuring half a dozen products!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Great videos! Thanks for going to all the trouble of videoing all the steps you're going through--very informative! :thumbsup:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thank you, Perf.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I do have Lou's excellent vinyl masks for this kit that are sold thru Paulbo. But for people that don't, here's a free option to try that worked perfectly, though wasn't necessarily easy to get done.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

While in the show, electricity arcs in these tubes, there's no way to do that at this scale at least. The included tubes are ridden with air bubbles, making them useless at best. Thefiberopticstore now sells side-firing fiber optics and I think this is the way to go for these, though there is some effort ahead to modify the additional kit pieces required for this assembly.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Installing a brand new, unique photo-etch product for the J2!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

As I've done with the other aftermarket vendors, here are links to the latest review vid from Fedoratron, featuring a pile of products.

: 18" J2 Circuit Wall Photo Etch and Light Kit
: 18" J2 Freezer Wall Photo Etch Set
: 18" J2 4x8 32 Light Chaser

: 12" J2 4x8 32 Light Chaser
: 12" J2 Brass Paint Masks, Details and Light Baffles

: "II Sequenziatore Di Stefano". A light sequencer w/ adj. speed and brightness.
: "The Pulsator". Uses included self-blink leds to drive a blink rate on normal leds.
: "On for awhile" Switch. Does what it says.

Pt1: Everything but what's in 2 and 3





Pt2: The sequencer and adjustable light chaser.





Pt3: PL brass paint masks and a wrap-up.





Thanks to notes from this review:
: The Freezer Wall kit will go into production as v2! Additionally to what's seen on the fret in these videos, grillwork for the elevator is now included as well as an extra wall grill and 2 extra floor circles, in case of mistakes!

: The Light Chaser kit will change to a linear potentiometer for the speed, as it's real finicky right now.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

*Note:* 
As with all the aftermarket review materials submitted to this project, any and all unused items for the J2 build will be auctioned 100% off to charity as the build winds down to completion. 

The retail cost of all aftermarket items that are used on this build will be donated 100% to charity around the same time as the unused items are auctioned to charity. 

Further details here as the time draws near.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Tom!

Fantastic aftermarket kits!!! Do you know the schedule of Fedoratron to have those kits on their website to accept orders? I mean, the photo etch sets and the paint masks.

Thanks


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

They can be ordered now, just send Eliot an email thru Fedoratron. Today he told me the site is getting worked on.

He has the production version of the freezer wall kit on the way to me now and I'll give it it's own video immediately.


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## rowdylex (Jan 19, 2010)

Now we are getting down the the 'nitty gritty' of this model. Looking good so far, can't wait to see the final version. 
Have you ever thought to light the wall beams somehow?
With the Fedoratron photo-etch, will it only be available through their website, or will it also be available throught other online retail outlets?

Keep up the good work :thumbsup:

Alex


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Model Man said:


> They can be ordered now, just send Eliot an email thru Fedoratron. Today he told me the site is getting worked on.
> 
> He has the production version of the freezer wall kit on the way to me now and I'll give it it's own video immediately.


Humm... Is something going wrong with their site? Today it is showing only the sequenziatore, the pulsator and the light chaser.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> They can be ordered now, just send Eliot an email thru Fedoratron. Today he told me the site is getting worked on.
> 
> He has the production version of the freezer wall kit on the way to me now and I'll give it it's own video immediately.


I have all the light kits I need, but the brass stuff for the computer walls as well as the freezing tube walls is just outstanding! I can't wait to order them!
Looking forward to your next video on the production version!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Rowdy, thanks and yes it's good to get to the nitty gritty at long last.

Fern and LiS: All I've done is review the parts, I don't know nor have any influence on how Fedoratron runs its business. I did alert Eliot to the lack of web pages though.
------------------------------------------------

Here's a cool little mod here. Has anyone else done this to theirs yet?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

Thanks for the information about the Fedoratron photo etch. Because of the great information from your video, I made a purchase.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Makes me wish I was getting a commission when I do these! lol.
I got the production version of the Freezer brass yesterday. Will post that asap.

Next up, we switch from Fedoratron's photo etch Freezer Walls to Paulbo's Command Console Photo Etch. (I think the decals are in the next installment. I may mention in this one I can't use them, but that was me thinking out loud and not very smartly.)


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Model Man said:


> Installing a brand new, unique photo-etch product for the J2!


I just went to order three sets of his PE parts and got hit with a $42.15 charge for shipping through the USPS for something that could go in a reinforced envelope and can't weigh more the two ounces, what's that all about.......:freak: I think I'll pass.......


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

You can bet. They are charging $36.95 to Brazil (more than three times the price of the kit!!). That's a pitty.  Those little things would be great improvement to my Moebius J2. I don't know if I will resist, 

By the way, how could it be more expensive shipping inside the US?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> You can bet. They are charging $36.95 to Brazil (more than three times the price of the kit!!). That's a pitty.  Those little things would be great improvement to my Moebius J2. I don't know if I will resist,
> 
> By the way, how could it be more expensive shipping inside the US?


I don't know if the shipping calculator is not working right, I tried three times and the same thing came out.......


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

teslabe said:


> I just went to order three sets of his PE parts and got hit with a $42.15 charge for shipping through the USPS for something that could go in a reinforced envelope and can't weigh more the two ounces, what's that all about.......:freak: I think I'll pass.......


Did you contact the producer about this? If not, _why_ not? As you mention in your next post, there might be some sort of issue w/the shipping calculation program.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Griffworks said:


> Did you contact the producer about this? If not, _why_ not? As you mention in your next post, there might be some sort of issue w/the shipping calculation program.


Yes I did but since this is the weekend I was not expecting to hear anything till tomorrow at the soonest.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

nevermind


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## Rallystone (Apr 16, 2010)

Seems to be working now. I ordered 1 each of the Freezer tube and Circuit wall kits, and the shipping was only $8.30. USPS priority, NY to MA. The kits themselves only $11 and $18 respectively. Not too too bad.
Modelman, thanks for the heads up on these. And looking forward to your continued videos!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Rallystone said:


> Seems to be working now. I ordered 1 each of the Freezer tube and Circuit wall kits, and the shipping was only $8.30. USPS priority, NY to MA. The kits themselves only $11 and $18 respectively. Not too too bad.
> Modelman, thanks for the heads up on these. And looking forward to your continued videos!


Well I just tried again and here is what I get for shipping options to 91309. It doesn't matter if ordering 1 or 3 pieces.


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## Rallystone (Apr 16, 2010)

you're right. There's something very wrong with that.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I'm sure it's just a fluke, I plan on ordering three sets of both PE kits as soon as it's fixed, thanks ModelMan for a good job telling us about and showing them......:thumbsup:


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

I ordered three sets of both. 

I plan to use only the circuit board. I have cut 5/32 square brass which will have acrylic rod inside with the led behind to light each circuit. 

On the video for the fiber: I cut out the tab and left only about 1/16 on each end. I shaved that cut out area to where it was flush with the front. I also shaved the two tabs to where they are rounded going up to the holes. The back cover is filed to where the bottom end is flush tapering up to the top. A person could file the entire back flush but leaving some of a lip at the top makes it easier to clamp and glue down. 

I don't know if .5 will work on the bottoms as one has to kink the fiber to get it to lay down. I'm considering using .25 for the bottom and melting slightly the ends in order to make the fiber seem larger.

Greg


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

teslabe said:


> Well I just tried again and here is what I get for shipping options to 91309. It doesn't matter if ordering 1 or 3 pieces.


That is the same shipping costs to my zip code (also in Southern California) for 3 sets of the freezing wall PE. Shipping costs for 3 sets of their Circuit Wall Enhancement Kit turned out to be $17.01. I really did not have a problem with those shipping costs. During each of my interactions with this company, they have been prompt, courteous and helpful. What more could one ask for? The costs of both enhancements (Freezing Tubes & Elevator Brass PE - $11; Circuit Wall Enhancement Kit - $18) are quite reasonable. If through their shipping and handling costs, Fedoratron makes a better profit, there is nothing wrong with that either with all things considered.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Wattanasiri said:


> That is the same shipping costs to my zip code (also in Southern California) for 3 sets of the freezing wall PE. Shipping costs for 3 sets of their Circuit Wall Enhancement Kit turned out to be $17.01. I really did not have a problem with those shipping costs. During each of my interactions with this company, they have been prompt, courteous and helpful. What more could one ask for? The costs of both enhancements (Freezing Tubes & Elevator Brass PE - $11; Circuit Wall Enhancement Kit - $18) are quite reasonable. If through their shipping and handling costs, Fedoratron makes a better profit, there is nothing wrong with that either with all things considered.



I got a reply from Fedoratron, lets see what happens and I'm sorry but $17.01 for shipping is a lot for three sheets of PE.


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

Well, after spending $360 for packing and shipping a model, this didn't seem too bad.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey guys.

I'm in trouble. What site are you buying from? 

This question may sounds absurd but, right now, when I type www.fedoratron.com, there are just four items to sell: the pulsator, the sequenziatore, a light chaser and a LED lighting kit for Revell 1/570 Titanic Model.

Is there something wrong?


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey guys.
> 
> I'm in trouble. What site are you buying from?
> 
> ...


Maybe you need to clear your cache of temporary files.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey guys.
> 
> I'm in trouble. What site are you buying from?
> 
> ...


Hi Fernando,
I just tried the link and I see everything including the two PE kits, try it again.
And they just fixed the shipping calculator for my P.O. zip and my order has been placed and paid for.......:thumbsup: I'm a happy man......


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Whereisanykey and Teslabe

I have cleanned my cache and now I am seeing them all. :thumbsup:


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

teslabe said:


> Well I just tried again and here is what I get for shipping options to 91309. It doesn't matter if ordering 1 or 3 pieces.


Hopefully you'll get this sorted out with them. That's just plain weird that the software is trying to charge that much.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Amazing what being away for a weekend can result in! 

Not being an employee of Fedoratron (or any other vendor I have ever reviewed), there's little to nothing I can do about the situation. I contacted Eliot to let him know the shipping calc might be broken and he replied it was being looked into and a more accurate shipping quote can be gotten by emailing him. $17 seems wicked high to me for a light envelope. The calc could be adding the individual shipping cost to itself for multiple items. I'd say email to confirm that is correct. I am sure he will work to make the situation right for you. Eliot is a personable, reputable and very approachable guy.

Like all the products I receive for review, I have no financial dealings apart from receiving kits themselves, which most often go back out to you, the public. For example, yesterday I launched my 2nd pseudo-annual charity auction on ebay. 17 kits including 6 I paid for, another 11 that Round 2 has sent me and also in there is extra fiber optics thefiberopticstore had sent me bundled with one of my own Modeler's Brand LED Packs.

Auction ends Feb19. Everything baslines at $9.95 with 90% of proceeds going to charities and the 10% to cover erroneous shipping guesses on my part. 24hrs after posting, there are 9 items bid on already with two of those having 2 bids each.

Check the list:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/modelmantom/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Here's the HT thread
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=4069552#post4069552

As to my J2 build:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I'm ready to admit my goof. 

I just didn't think the three small hatch doors were important enough to make masks for.

I didn't think that folks would miss them and even if the J2 were a real ship, the makers wouldn't have gone to the trouble of painting those doors in the two tone scheme (much less put tiny portholes in them)

Sorry'bout that, chief:wave:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I'm ready to admit my goof.
> 
> I just didn't think the three small hatch doors were important enough to make masks for.
> 
> ...


I haven't seen that video in a few weeks now, so I hope I did not come across harsh, Lou! :wave:

Overall, Lou's masks took 3-5mins per door to apply. Cutting custom shapes from tape took 12-15mins per door AND there was not much chance my cutting skills could gracefully handle the small curves at each corner. Lou's masks are faster and more accurate. Those masks are pretty much a must-buy for anyone. 

Once I get this beast off my bench, I know there are many more Aztek Dummy masks I want to get. :thumbsup:
---


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

I used an entire different approach. I went ahead an inserted the part in place and ran the fiber through the front and out the back and in through the slit in the bottom. This kept all the fibers in place, without any glue, and when the back is glued down it hold all the fibers in place, as there is a rather think flat bundle. This also helped keep the fibers in line and the result is somewhat of a ribbon cable of fiber.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I didn't think to put the back on after the fiber was in place. I was looking at the internal 90° that the fiber would have to bend to get into the main control section if put in place with the back glued on. 

Your idea is perfect and that is the way I'll be doing the freezer wall panels. Those will be threaded in place and for that, to keep the fiber from falling out, I cut one length of several feet, thread it in one hole and then loop the rest between the led tube and the control panel, then snip, once all are white glued in place.

So that's the short of why I did it the way I did here in the vids.
And doing all three panels, the first went mediocre, the second went better and by third, I nailed down a good process.

One thing that should be understood by all the viewers is that all these vids are up to several weeks old to me in the build. What is seen here is never where I am now. That's just part of the post production side of the equation. Burst posts of a dozen vids at a time are overwhelming, so I'm keeping it down to one a day to even things out. 

All the ideas, suggestions, comments and critiques are highly welcome and prized!!! Please do not stop doing that simply because I'm not working on what you are seeing at a given moment in time. Many ideas are easily applied to other models and there are also ideas that can be retrofitted into a finished part!

Here's the next part in my learning curve.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

Model Man said:


> J2 FlightLog 24: Floor Fitimization 7/11 - YouTube


hi tom, just in regard to the wall tabs showing at floor level you might be able to reduce their visibility be scribing a deep line across the tab as it joins the wall and paint the tab the same color as the floor. the paint would help it blend in better and the line would help give the bottom of the wall the illusion of a straight flat bottom.

i realise your videos are about 10steps behind where you are in real time but thought it worth shareing in case it works for someone else


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

That's a good point, Dave! A similar tip I just got from a friend yesterday: run a flat file along the front face of the tab to create an 'offset'. That way the wall and tab are no longer flush and the wall can sit just ahead of the tab, hopefully hiding it. Scribing a 'deep line' sounds risky to accidentally going straight thru, cutting the tab off. Filing the tab down AND painting it the same color as the floor is the way I think I'm gonna hit this. Wouldn't have thought to paint the tab itself. Bit of insightful genius going on there... Thanks Dave! :thumbsup: 


I'm putting the walls down today or tomorrow. Sometimes my vids are a few weeks ahead, sometimes they are days. When I started posting this current round, they were 2 weeks ahead, now they are 2-3 days! I gotta get cracking!!!


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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

i should have said a heavy scribe line rather than deep so it doesn't affect the integrity of the tab too much.
a combination with your friend's suggestion would probably be the best actually.
scribe a line for a neat straight edge at the base of the wall and then use the small flat file, if needed, to lightly remove more of the tab surface until it looks right.
and finally touch up the tab with floor paint


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

David, that is exactly what I am gonna do!


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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

Model Man said:


> David, that is exactly what I am gonna do!


cool

btw thanks for the tip on the fedoratron photoetch
i recieved my kits in the mail today, excellent product
i was also impressed with their prompt service in sorting out the shipping issues for me
they also mentioned that thanks to you they've had a run on their lis pe, so kudo's:thumbsup:


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

I have a question on photoetch, namely paragraphix. It seems the ones for the freezer tube walls do not align with the Moebius panels. The Paragraphix ones seem too small for where they belong. 

I'd also have to say it was finding ModelMan's videos that prompted me to once again try my hand at modeling. I was especially impressed with the lighting ideas. It seems this particular model has a lot of possibilities. I'd like to see how some others would include motors. I plan on using a number of them.

Greg


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## geminibuildups (Apr 22, 2005)

*The ParaGrafix parts fit perfectly on the Moebius Jupiter 2 freezing tube panels. There are 2 different sized panels (1 large one and 2 smaller ones). You just have to sand off the raised details from the kit parts .

Geminibuildups

GEMINI MODEL BUILD-UP STUDIOS
www.geminibuildupstudios.com*


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

I wouldn't say "perfectly". From what I can tell of your image, it too, doesn't cover the entire area of where the moebius has its own lights. The bumps for the lights span the entire surface, whereas Paragraphix is shorter in length. As can be seen in your image, the raised panel is longer than the photoetch. Some of the other photoetch seem to align the same as the Moebius detail. This is why I'm wondering on this. That's why I'm considering making something that will fill the entire detail of the Moebius.

I suppose I could shave off the entire raised area and lay some styrene down the same size as the photoetch. This way it would look more like rack-mounted equipment. They way it would look as is, it doesn't give the impression of a rack-mount device.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

whereisanykey said:


> I have a question on photoetch, namely paragraphix. It seems the ones for the freezer tube walls do not align with the Moebius panels. The Paragraphix ones seem too small for where they belong.
> 
> I'd also have to say it was finding ModelMan's videos that prompted me to once again try my hand at modeling. I was especially impressed with the lighting ideas. It seems this particular model has a lot of possibilities. I'd like to see how some others would include motors. I plan on using a number of them.
> 
> Greg


Thanks, Greg. I've gotten a lot of similar notes over the last few years. It's a humbling thing. I'm glad that my screw ups take the fear out of it for others and my successes nudge the imagination as to what can be done.

As to the upper freezer panel, I don't know when I installed that brass. Glancing thru a couple lis eps, and I do mean glancing, the lit area seems to be smaller than the entire panel, but I have exceptionally low res video copies I'm watching.

As GBU said, scrape off the moebius details and drop the pgms in place. 

In general, I would give accuracy credit to an after-marketer that knows their game than the model company that makes the kit. Specifically as the model company will almost always have to make concessions to varying design changes, conflicting references and ultimately the time/finance budget continuum. After-marketeers can be a little more discerning, and being more focused, can pay more attention to little details.

It would have to be Paulbo that answers your specifics though.

And with a brief youtube channel blackout to mourn the loss of the old interface now over with, it's back to the updates!

In the very first second of this vid a major-critical stupid error is visible if you know what you are looking for. I did not see it until way far too late. However, it was a blessing in disguise as it allowed me to step back and do a couple other fixes that were bugging me.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Next installment in the masochism series:





With the next video, we are caught up to my 'present day'. Tomorrow, Mar 11, I expect to put the walls down for Flight Log 25 and that will be the only topic in FL25. 

From there, it's on to where I've wanted to be for quite some time now, the lighting! 

And with that comes lots of soldering and prep work. It's going to be lots of fun. But there are a lot of conceptual ideas I've got to hammer out along the way. I've got lighting notes for most of the ship as long as I can find them. They cover the positions and functions for 90+% of the lights and what those lights do: color, steady on, fast flash, slow flash, sequential, etc.

I'll be using a few of the Fedoratron "El Sequenzies" to control all the blinking and I've got some fairly complex ideas for how to go about this. 

With that said, there will be some 'down' time between the next couple posts and FL26: The lighting campaign. 

However, I've been working nearly everyday on this model and posting one video per day since New Years. It's been quite the haul, but we are in the end game for this model at long freaking last!

After the lights, there is the outer hull to deal with and then the diorama which will be suitably complex as well. More on that stuff when we get to it!

:wave:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

And here is the conclusion of FL24.





I'm going to put the walls on today and get that video up asap.

Then it's into lighting design!

Btw, there's a custom piece of photo-etch Eliot at Fedoratron cut for me to replace my elevator floor. I think there are more people out there than me that will (accidentally) wipe those details away with heavy paint or primer and that Fedoratron should make it a regular offering. The PE detail is certainly sharper than the plastic.


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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

hey tom, thinking about it, i'm a bit worried about sanding the wall tabs back. you'll reduce the visibility of the tab but it will increase the visibility of the hole in the floor. so suggest to experiment first with just a scribe line first where the tab meets the wall and paint the tab same as the floor color, then test fit to see if that's sufficient before sanding the tabs.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> And here is the conclusion of FL24.
> J2 FlightLog 24: To Summarize... 11/11 - YouTube
> 
> I'm going to put the walls on today and get that video up asap.
> ...



When do we get to see FL 25?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Some of it has been shot. I've been working 60hr weeks lately and at least into next week. Sorry for the delay! It will be 'soon'. I was unemployed the first two months this year, so had plenty of time to work on it.


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

I had an idea on those walls and the floor holes. If a person makes an L-shaped piece and glues it to the back and then the wall can be positioned to just hide the hole. 

I did finally see what the freezer tube photoetch looks like. It seemed like it should fill the entire area. After seeing a pretty good angle I can see that Paragraphx version is right on. 

I've been thinking on the wiring for those freezer tube walls. I have some wire-wrap wire and the insulation is about the right size, but the color is blue. I just wonder if I should leave it at that or coat it black. I haven't found yet a good image of that yet. I kind of wonder if blue would give it some character.

Greg


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

If it's for you, I'd say go where the spirit takes you, Greg. 

Here's the start of Flight Log 25, The Glue Down! Walls are attached to floor at long last! Wiring and lighting is next.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

Are you planning on using any motors. I bought a slew of them from Hong Kong, since they were so cheap. Of course they'll have to be made to rotate a full 360°. It would sure help if I could see someone else's methods.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Model Man said:


> J2 FlightLog 25: Preflighting the Parts: 3/4 4/19 - YouTube


I wouldn't put that window in that back room. I'd make it a decal using some APOD Photos for realism.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

whereisanykey said:


> Are you planning on using any motors. I bought a slew of them from Hong Kong, since they were so cheap. Of course they'll have to be made to rotate a full 360°. It would sure help if I could see someone else's methods.


No. I couldn't find a good form factor that went slow enough. Maybe on my next one I will.


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## whereisanykey (Sep 25, 2011)

You could sure use a dremel drill press. Then using a grinding wheel you can shave those LED's down in short order. I haven't checked it out yet, but my idea is to use some acrylic rod. I would use the one size that is equal to the flasher itself. Then drill a small hole in the end and insert another rod that is much smaller. That rod would be painted to block the light. That rod would then be inserted well below the floor with a really bright LED. I'll find out if it will work or not.

Maybe you could use some small tubing and put only one leg through it and the other lead behind that tubing to hide it.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I think this vid addresses the dremel drill press, yes I did use mine to cut the tops off these 10mm LEDs.

First lighting of the 3 main monitors on the command console! A whole pile of fiber optics is to follow for all the little holes.





If it will work, I'll take a Fedoratron Pulsator circuit and replace the amber/orange blinkie LEDs for yellow. The video thumbnail shows that center console too orange for my tastes.


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## David3 (Jun 2, 2010)

hey tom
good to see you back at it


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thank you, David.

I fell behind on posting these...


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Hi Tom, 

You're looking good there Champ! While you in the 'dry fitting phase' have you tried to insert your dry fitted upper deck into the hull's yet? You may want give it a shot soon! 

Keep up the great work, my friend! :thumbsup:

-Ben G.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Yes, I have. Getting the fit is essential as I'm going for cutting the port hole window and matching interior to exterior!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Whoo-hoo! Over 20,000 thread reads! Thanks for everyone's interest! This is about to get real fun!!!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Looking Good, Brother Tom... Looking Good! :thumbsup:
-Ben G.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

These next few vids have been backlogged since May. I've been working on a video project that will be public to all modelers as early as this weekend, so haven't gotten back to the J2 as yet. I expect to by the end of the month it looks like.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Wiring the Fedoratron Pulsator.





Somewhat incomplete, I'll cover it more in the next flight log. For the moment, i am caught up with the videos and the j2 awaits fresh work!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

It has been awhile! :wave:

I was able to devote several days recently, running some ~600 fiber optic threads into the main deck of this model... That's a total of 992 threads in the PGMS photo etch panels that I counted, making somewhere over 1,000 feet of fiber in this model. And it still fits in the hull perfectly! 

Now, matching each thread up to a particular color, that is where the real fun will begin! lol.

Here are the first two parts in this current flight log.










The fiber is about to fly!

And speaking of fiber, my thanks to Paul at thefiberopticstore.com for his support.


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

Perhaps this could be helpful. Here is an online tool that would give you a more precise template for the conical window reveal for your extra round window can be found at: http://www.payloadbay.com/index.php?page=Tools&action=TRANS

Input in the large and small diameters and then the length, click submit and a PDF will automatically download with a template you can use for cutting the sheet plastic.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Wattanasiri said:


> Perhaps this could be helpful. Here is an online tool that would give you a more precise template for the conical window reveal for your extra round window can be found at: http://www.payloadbay.com/index.php?page=Tools&action=TRANS
> 
> Input in the large and small diameters and then the length, click submit and a PDF will automatically download with a template you can use for cutting the sheet plastic.


Well, no kidding! I'll be sure to give it a try!!! Thanks!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's a big mistake that required a delicate touch...
After painting, I did not re-drill all several hundred of the brass photo etch holes to make sure there wasn't any clogging going on. Tip: Re drill any holes that will have fiber optics going through them before you put the part in place. Drilling ~600+ holes in situ was not impossible, but far more difficult than it needed to be.






All told: there are a minimum of 992 holes in Paulbo's photo etch! At a dash over one foot per fiber, that's over 1,000 feet of fiber stuffed into this so far. I fully expect to trim most of that down when the lighting happens.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

I don't know if white glue will work... but maybe something like clear resin?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

White glue is very adequate for fiber optic and plastic. And, at a dollar a tube at my local dollar store, it could be called nearly 'perfect'.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

In the vid, I mention I couldn't remember who it was that spray paints their fiber optics black to help kill light bleed, mentioning a couple people incorrectly. But it was in fact Badgrendels that I heard put forth the idea first.

Fiber optics don't get a lot of light bleeding in from the side along the length, but there is in fact some. Spraying it black will kill that factor and ensure pure tones traveling down your threads. Not doing it, is not going to cause too much of a difference. I'd characterize it as a 'power-user' option if I can borrow from computer parlance.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I unknowingly hit a youtube milestone last night! 

I have been keeping track of these videos in a master youtube playlist. As it turns out, there is a 200 entry limit on playlists -and I just hit it! Thus, I've had to split the list. 

Playlist 1 has 194 vids and a final runtime of 23:46:30! That's 13:30 mins shy of a full 24hours! Whoah! It includes every video from Flight Log 1 part 1 to Flight Log 26 part 5.

Playlist 2 will now start with Flight Log 27 pt 1 and conclude with the final video in the series. 

*Playlist 1*
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC9A0E02733B23DCA

*Playlist 2*
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...7t40P8r-Qgz2oa

While I'm at it, I may as well post the next video in FL27.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)




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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Watch your starting volume on this one.






The thumbnail for this video happens to point out the big thing about that back room... The window cannot be the shape it is the the curve of the wall upper left of robot is accurate. It was a studio cheat. The room must have the same wall as the hall left of the main airlock. The image also shows off the fire etinguisher sometimes back there and an alternate placement of the poster, which is sometimes on the wall left of the window. There is also sometimes a silver computer case looking box tucked into the corner.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

This is the last video for a couple weeks. Would loved to have finished this in time for the 3rd year ann'y next month, but I have several pressing commitments that need immediate and total devotion and concentration. 

I expect to pick the J2 up with soldering the Fedoratron boards and then matching the 900 fiber threads to the various leds that will be required. This will be quite the sight! 

From there, we have misc. assembly of the lower hull legs, exterior work and the diorama. We are in the end game, though not yet near the final moves.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Tom,

I tried watching the latest installments and all I got was a solid pink screen and your voice. Tried refreshing it several times to no avail. Your other installments continue to play just fine.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

It seems to be playiing properly here for me and on my yt channel and pages... Dump your cache, maybe? Reboot? Try it in another browser? Hopefully you can get it to work, but there's not many good shots in this video anyway, though there are couple unique views on the interior.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Is it 'resurrecting' an old post when the model is still active, just sputters along in spits and spurts? 

*Enter 2014; the fourth anniversary of starting this model!*
Would you believe me if I said I'm finally in the end game? :hat:

I'm certainly looking forward to working several models at once again! My commitment to build only the J2, barring business or other needs, set me back on the body count these past years. However, the things I've learned and experimented with, the focus it's required and the dozens of other things I _*am*_ getting out of this have been a tremendous experience I couldn't have gotten any other way. And possibly, had I been exposed another way, not been ready at the time.

Last year's life-events set me back some and advanced me in others. From two full-time jobs 'for the price of one' in the first half of the year to marriage in the middle and the ensuing life-adjustments, a repeat-stroke Mother and immediate family needing me home for a month on the far side of the country and working a normal FT job around that in the last quarter while growing Modeler's Brand throughout, the rest of the year I was asleep.

A couple builds did get to happen though. Starting back in August or so I started a couple lighting demo builds for Modeler's Brand of the AMT 1701-D and a Tholian 1701. Around Christmas, I threw an MPC Darth Vader in the mix thinking it would be a "24hr build" (still awaiting paint 2 months later!:freak. 

It's taken those three models months instead of days or weeks to get done, but they are now out of the way (curse you, Vader!) and I've been back on the J2 for over a week! And that just following a 3wk, full-on studio-scale refit of my studio-scale studio and work bench. 

I did whip the following two vids out last month, but didn't post them as I knew they were just a prelude to the work going on now. These detail the Taming of the Fiber and hint to the sequencers that are now underway.










------------------------------

Below is the first installment of the new work now happening; actual sequencers being soldered, leds installed and fiber optics routed. 






As part of my "use what's on hand to the best before buying something new" modality, I'm using what's available rather than looking around to spend money I don't have. 

I do have a number of www.fedoratron.com sequencers on hand and I'll be using as many of them as needed to give the ship a nice heart beat. One pattern is not enough. The lights need layers of flashing. Some fast, some slow, some very close to each other but enough for a nice drift, that is the aim. The pulse of a sci-fi ship!

Then there are a very few flickering lights on the ship. The yellow bar below the reels on the computer wall is one. Another is the set of 'Danger Towers' that front the 'Danger Ball' on the computer wall. I will use flickering 3mm reds to simulate those as best I can. In each of the actual tower set pieces were three bulbs flashing offset from each other. The Danger Ball itself is getting the needed fiber optic points to differently sequenced white LEDs so they flash as intermittently as the show did.

The fedoratron sequencers can handle up to 5 leds per channel with up to 10 channels per board. If I'm using 'channel' correctly. There may be another term for it. My idea is that having several sequencers going, running up to 5 led colors per flash should yield some extreme lighting diversity. With sequencer work underway there is little of the LEDs still to do, but it is still some time to complete. 

*I think this is the immediate list.*
- Install the Command Console computer panels (~300+ Fibers).
- Some dozen pieces of fiber to run here and there that were missed.
- Finish off the middle and right third of the computer wall: Fair amount.
- Finish Comm Station blue and red flashing: 5 fibers
- Reconcile the command console light ref to the photo etch: fair amount.
- Backroom lighting: 1 led and 4 fiber optics.
- Pod Airlock: 1 LED.
- Main airlock, duplicate airlock panel on far side.
- Ref check for left wall of space pod airlock that has speaker grill. Flashing LEDs and their colors?

*Here otherwise is the final checklist to completion.*
- Gutting the lower hull and refining all elements (now that I know what the underside of the deck is going to look like). 

- Bay airlock doors need 2 fiber optics each, red, green?. Also install 2 ceiling lights in bay.

- Deep cleaning the flight deck as there is built up dust in the nooks and crannies. Water and a QTip?

- Final touches on the Backroom and porthole alignment.
- Final touches on the Space Pod airlock. 
- Create outer airlock structures; frames, inside ramp, etc. 
- Re-install Freezer Tubes.
- Install Elevator filligree, et al. Feed those fibers to colors.

- Consider fake wall by Weapons Locker to simulate the porthole properly. It can't be seen from any angle except with lid off.

- Permanently install landing gear and bay walls. I don't trust the included plastic struts with the additional weight of the flight deck. I will be making my own from brass and/or aluminum. Al doesn't need to be painted, but it is much weaker than brass...

- Sand/Prime/Paint outer hulls. Inner ceiling is going 1735 Sand, I believe. I was going silver to reflect light around, but Sand is the correct color.

- All the power will need a base to run through, so I'm thinking of the tarmac the J2 landed at (once or twice) as a diorama. I'll have another look through the series, the Derelict may make a nice situ. Hmmm...

:wave:


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Tom --

4 years is really enough time wasting. I think you should just send back all the things you took from vendors to "make this happen," say you are sorry to them, and then just bow out. Any usefulness of this project has pretty much died, and you owe me a DVD set of this which I doubt I'll ever see and I'm not sure I even want to watch.

You took a LOT of product from different vendors, and failed to live up to obligations regarding the acceptance of the product. YOU SOLD A LOT OF THE STUFF ON EBAY!!!! What kind of way is that to do business? You sold the stuff a few years back, when you were no where near even finishing the project.

I'm sorry your personal life is in turmoil, as everyone knows what that feels like, but every time I see your posts, I'm reminded about how you approached me for stuff, and then approached other after-market manufacturers for the SAME type of product, and turned it into a competition! This kind of behavior is just unacceptable. You basically stole from the aftermarket people that supplied you in the first place.

And I'm not even saying anything about the "donations" in cash you collected at the start of this failed project. I feel sorry for people that donated, thinking you a professional, feeling they would get some great tips and a video guide to boot, only having to sit around for 4 years and wonder if it is ever going to get done...

Seriously -- how many of those people have put off their buildup for 4 years waiting for you to finish before they start.

Sorry, man -- you and your project are a complete failure, and this is an opinion that I'm pretty sure I'm not alone with.

All I can say is I thank God I did not send you a 'free' launch pad kit! Would that still be sitting around today, or would you have sold it on EBAY???

--Henry


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Folks, 
Any item not used in this build that was donated by a vendor has been or will be sold on ebay with 100% of the sale going to a charity of the vendor's choosing. Vendors who did not or do not offer their choice, had or will have one charity chosen at random. Receipts for items previously sold, the charity and amount to which the proceeds went, can be pulled from the archives. There was a set of unused TSDS decals perhaps and some non-J2 photoetch from PGMS that passed through my hands. As mentioned, it was years ago. All remaining items that are unused will be auctioned to charity as build decisions are made.

Allow me to me restate, items 'sold years ago' were not needed for the build and with a few other things up to that, went 100% to charity. I said that would happen from the start and I stand by that. I will see no money from the items used or unused in this build. 

There is still a sequencer Side-by-Side with 3 or 4 vendors. Side-by-Side with sequencers, decals, photoetch landing pads or whatever was always the aim, so that modelers could see the differences for themselves and make up their own minds. As with other side-by-sides, each item compared and contrasted for what they are and how they look.

When complete, this model will be sold on ebay and the cost of all items that were used, from basic model kit to final piece of kaboodle will be given 100% to charity. I will not see one penny from anything donated to this cause and have always said that from the start. Not one penny. Only one person gave any actual money. I offered his $50 back and have been waiting on a reply. 

Meantime, I will follow through with the obligation to complete this model, posting my progress here where this project originated. All obligations made with the caveats of the day which are here and available for all to read for themselves have been and will be honored. I look forward to unburdening myself from this albatross.





g_xii said:


> Tom --
> 
> 4 years is really enough time wasting. I think you should just send back all the things you took from vendors to "make this happen," say you are sorry to them, and then just bow out. Any usefulness of this project has pretty much died, and you owe me a DVD set of this which I doubt I'll ever see and I'm not sure I even want to watch.
> 
> ...


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

.... and I think that about does it for this thread....

Tom - please start a new thread with any future progress. I want to close this so that this bit of nastiness ends.


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