# Alumilite kit?



## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

OK, so none of the local hobby stores (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, AC Moore) sell anything resembling a resin casting starter kit. But tomorrow I have an appointment out of town that will take me past a Hobbytown that has two different Alumilite kits, one for about 35 bucks and the other for about 70. I've been reading everything I can find online about resin casting (found a really good thread here, actually, apparently some of us from HT are on it) and it seems there are a good number of people who have had good luck with Alumilite. The only negative comment I saw is that the resin set up too fast for a couple of people. Anyone else had that experience? Could it be a matter of the ratio of resin to hardener? When using this stuff, might it be a good idea to mix a few drops light on the hardener? Or will that have some other funky effect on my finished product?

thanx in advance...

--rick

ps has anyone seen the hoslotcarcasting group on Yahoo Groups? hasn't seen much activity recently, but the picture archives are great... Ed Penland has this awesome thing he calls a "Gizmo" that places your Tjet screw posts right where you need them when you pour your mold...


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Not sure which direction you are heading but Smooth-On is located in Easton, you can buy sample kits from them for like $50. A little more than the Alumilite kit but I think you get _much_ more product.


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

Make sure that when you buy at Hobby Lobby print off the 40% coupon. They are only good for a week and for one item only. It will make a $70 product under $50.


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## 22tall (Jul 28, 2002)

Rick, Hobby Kobby puts a 40% coupon in our Sunday local paper one or two times a month. A $70 kit is alot better when it is only $42. Get the big one. You get almost 4 times the amount of material compared to the small one.

I have found too little hardener gives a rubbery cast. Too much makes it brittle. If it is hardeneing too fast they may be mixing too long. Another problem is the small amounts you have to measure. When I was casting Hot Wheels Ford GT40s I was mixing 9 ml at a time. I bought a box of disposable pipettes with ml markings. 

If you are doing a diecast cast
1. Remove all plastic bits
2. Use a good paint stripper. I like BIX. On most cars it's like watching movie special effects. The paint wrinkles literally in seconds. Plastic parts melt in about the same time.
3. Be bummed out. That thick layer of paint covers lots of defects. File mold marks and such. Putty and sand gouges.
4. Give the entire thing a really good buffing with very small grit sandpaper. The silicone will pick up any imperfections so the time you spend now will pay off later. Smooth is good.
5. Clean the body. I use compressed air, a tack cloth and alcohol wipes. By the way when doing this I wear a cotton glove. Fingerprints are bad.
6. I clearcoat next.
7. If you are molding in the glass and bumpers reinstall them now.
8. Work clay into the areas around the glass and bumpers. I usually use toothpicks with the round end to smooth it out. You do not want silicone seeping between things. 

Remember to wipe it off again before you make the mold.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Only problem is the place that actually HAS the stuff is Hobbytown, not Hobby Lobby. Does Hobbytown take competitors' coupons?

Oh, and yeah, I noticed that when you actually strip diecast, the bare zamac looks kinda cruddy. I was gonna prime and paint, figuring on the paint filling in some of the imperfections. I read on a diecast site today an interesting point of view... unless you are trying to pick out really fine detail, there's nothing wrong with scuffing the factory paint a little and laying your own primer and paint over it. All stuff I will have to try and learn, I guess...

--rick


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Just be sure whatever you buy, you actually use it.










This one sat on the shelf a little too long.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

22tall said:


> R
> (snip)
> 
> 8. Work clay into the areas around the glass and bumpers. I usually use toothpicks with the round end to smooth it out. You do not want silicone seeping between things.
> ...


I was actually looking at this... on one of the projects I was looking at, this is a real problem. The bumper/headlights are not a real good fit and are going to let crap in there. I guess I am going to have to pack the cavities with clay and press the parts into it. Thanks for pointing that out...

--rick


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Just be sure whatever you buy, you actually use it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


yeah it's funny you say that, i've read enough posts from guys who said their stuff went bad from sitting, so i'm trying to get like 4 or 5 projects ready to just drop in the Lego box one after the other...

--rick


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

OK, so several guys have recommended Smooth-On, so I'm leaning towards ordering that online and dealing with the wait, which is gonna be difficult because I'm like an impatient 3-year-old with stuff like that.  The only question I have now: It appears that the Alumilite kit comes with clay and the Smooth-On does not, so I will have to buy some. 

Any recommendations for where to get the clay? 

Better to be somewhat softer than harder, right? It seems that some of this stuff is hard to work and it could damage a plastic or resin body if you tried to pack it in and it didn't give... 

Obviously it doesn't have to look pretty, so cheap is probably good, but I read in a post somewhere that many kinds of modeling clay have sulfur in them and the sulfur could do something to your silicone mold, maybe have some kind of reaction. Is there anything to that?

Jeez I gotta lot of questions... :tongue:

--rick


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## 22tall (Jul 28, 2002)

Rick, I think Klean klay is what you want. I haven't looked for it in stores so you may have to order it. Got mine from Micro Mark last century. It's reusable.

The heat from your hands makes the clay softer. If it's a problem just put it down and let it return to room temperature or pop it in the fridge for a couple minutes.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

HOLY CATS. I placed my order with Smooth-On yesterday morning. The box was waiting when I got home today. Sweet! I guess I shouldn't be TOO surprised, they are only a few hours away from here...

Now to pray for snow Thursday night so we have a snow day Friday and I have a nice long weekend to play! 

--rick


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

*Discovered on accident.*

HOLD THE PRESSES!!!!

I tripped over a solution in the shop today.
I have this diecast body that just wont strip, some weird kind of paint.
Well, I got the bright idea to take a mini wire wheel to it via the Dremel™.
Wow man, what a difference. It polished the body right up!
If you have something you wanna cast, this has got to help.
It will show imperfections on the diecast immediately.
It keeps the detail, but you might be able to buff out small imperfections.

***WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES*** ...or even a face shield.

Them little wires don't feel to good.
I used mine at slow speed and it worked great.

Hope this helps... :thumbsup:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

park, pm me an address and I'll send you some clay pronto. I have plenty from all the starter kits I have bought from Micro-Mark.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

hey, i really appreciate that. i was looking at clay in the local Michaels craft store today and I could tell it was gonna be too hard. PM sent. thanks again!

--rick


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Cool idea, Rich! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

ParkRNDL said:


> Only problem is the place that actually HAS the stuff is Hobbytown, not Hobby Lobby. Does Hobbytown take competitors' coupons?


Rick - 

All the Hobby Lobby stores down my way carry the Alumilite big and small starter kits, extra liquid silicone, and silicone putty, plus coloring agents and other associated stuff. Down here, it's a couple of aisles over from the model kits next to the knives, tools, scenery and diorama supplies, near the toy soldiers and animals. Ask a clerk in that general area; ours are pretty knowledgeable.

On a week when the website runs the 40-off coupon, you can use one coupon per store per day. Print up six when they are first placed on the web and keep them in the car. Stop by on the way home from work each day, and you can get hefty-discount silicone stuff six times a week. 12 times, if you have two stores nearby.

-- D


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