# Glazing putty and sanding time?



## Omega (Jan 14, 2000)

Just picked up some glazing putty to try a step up in doing some custom work. After I filled in some windows how long should I let it dry before sanding? Also is wet sanding or dry better?

Dave


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

I can only speak for the brand I use, which is a 37 year old tube of Nitro-Stan(it's still good), and I can usually wet or dry sand in an hour, sometime less if it's not too thick.
PS- IF you are using Automotive Grade Glazing Putty, make sure you do so in a VERY WELL VENTILATED area....


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

More than one kind. Catalyzed or non catalyzed? Did you use styrene to fill the windows first, then a light skim of putty? Not advisable to expect glazing putty to do the whole job. Light thin layers are best.

Dry sanding is for preliminary roughing, shaping and quickly establishing the basic contours. Sticky back 180/220 dry to 320 wet or dry is my cut-off for dry sanding. Occasionally 320 wet. Dont forget that sharp files work great for roughing as well, the H0 equivalent of the "cheese grater" (surform file) 

For refining contours, defining body lines, and feathering edges; 600 and above is wet exclusively. Paper is expensive and loads up quickly if not lubricated/cleansed with water. You want to maximize your mileage.


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

for some larger filling jobs like filling in windows on the vw bus and making wide wheel flares on the lola gt I use plastic wood in the tube . and after I get all my shaping done I put a coat of superglue over it to make for a very strong repair.. then I sand and prime it to finish it.
everyone has there own ways to get the job done.
ask questions then find what works best for you and have fun building..:thumbsup:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Lots of options here as mentioned...The boys do recommend some plastic backing or fill in, such as plastic packaging or the styrene Bill mentioned. Sometimes we use JB Weld for the primary fill in against a plastic packaging support. Then we do some grinding/sanding, then a coat of automotive bondo, more blocking/sanding, then some primer with more blocking/sanding. You'll just need to experiment...Using glazing putty by itself will probalby break out with too much sanding pressure. Try it out on a diecast test body. You need to scuff up the inside window frames/area to be bonded/filled... Just my thoughts as opinions vary... Never thought about wood in a tube, but there ya go, whatever works...RM


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## Omega (Jan 14, 2000)

Thank you all for you input. I cut the window glass in half to left the back windows in place. I did not think about scuffing the plastic of the glass first so the putty might pop out on sanding. I am using the non catalyzed glazing putty that i picked up at walmart. I also picked up the automotive sanding paper in 400, 800, 1000 & 1200. So tonight will be the first sanding so I will find out what happens then. Last night about 3 hrs after I put the putty in I wanted to try the sanding, but then I remembered some of what I have read here. 1. Walk away after you do something to give what ever you are doing time to setup and dry. 2. Take it slow, do not rush or you may have to start over. 3. Even if you need to start over remember to apply what you have learned.

Dave


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Yer never alone. Walking away is still THE hardest part of modeling for me by far. Even after all these years, I still have to fight to maintain discipline; because I cant help getting excited and potentially sucked into the "build frenzy". 

Is it dry yet? Is it dry yet? Is it dry yet? Is it dry yet? Is it dry yet? 











Is it dry yet?


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

And if you will go back to Wally World, look in the fingernail polish department, they have some great sanding sticks/boards. They have some you can even buff with. I use em all the time... don't be scared to go look, man up!!! RM


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

One thing to ponder over....

One of the biggest tricks to learn is working with different material's hardness'. Here's an example. I decide to fill in a window on a body using styrene and covered with JB quick weld. The body is ABS plastic, and is one hardness, the styrene is on the soft side of the spectrum, and the JB Weld goes from even softer than styrene to harder than ABS. If you sand it too early, the JB will be too soft and sand too easily. If you wait too long, it cures like steel and sanding it is rather difficult. The problem then becomes I'll be removing the ABS from the body instead of removing the JB. If I break through the JB to the styrene it's even worse, because now I have 3 different levels of hardness all being sanded at the same time.

It's hard to find that happy medium, and it's not just JB Weld. It's anything you could use as a filler. They're all different. Green putty is similar to red lead, but dries much harder than it. Bondo may or may not be easier to work with. Goop (T Jet plastic added to Testors 3502) might be the hardest once it finally cures. They all have god points and bad points. Balancing the pros and cons ain't easy!


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