# Take a peek at the Leadfoot Speedway



## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Some of the paint is drying as I take these pictures, but here goes. For no real good reason I just had to build a track, and because it had to be portable and put away when not in use, a 1/5-mile dirt oval just made sense. That, and the theme of a primitive, cobbled-up and generally rough-and-tumble county fairgrounds track falls right in line with my modeling skills. 

The track surface is about 3x6' routed MDF, banked 10*, painted with interior latex (in Glidden's Fresh-Baked Pumpernickel; can you smell it?), and copper-taped. Infield is a couple of ceiling tiles. Walls are 1/8" tempered hardboard covered with printed board fencing downloaded from one of the textures sites. Signs were collected with an evening's worth of Google Images perusal. I printed both on buff-colored cover stock; the thicker paper let me glue them on with 50% Elmer's with no wrinkling, and the little bit of color gave the white areas some weathering.

(Just as a data point, the track was made from two U-shaped pieces, the curves having 176* of arc. When pulled parallel, the banking came up to almost exactly ten degrees, which agrees with the widely-posted chart.)

The lights are cheap Christmas bells from the craft store, and I put them in the rock tumbler for a day with some wet sand to take off the shine and add a little rust. LEDs are behind discs of very thin fiberglass diffusers. Bases are coaxial DC power connectors with the mates below ground level so I can just stab them in and remove for storage.

The flagman's stand is made from bamboo skewers and wood coffee stirrers. Staples sold me a box of 1000 for two-fifty. They're about a scale 2x9, remakably straight and uniform, and a couple of passes with the Xacto gives you approximate 2x4s. It's still uninhabited, as I haven't located a 1/64 flagman; anyone have a source?

Cars are current AW with very minor body mods, then I just mopped on acrylic craft paint, scattered some decals, sprayed on a little "mud", and sealed it all under flat clear. All stock running gear so they're a bit unruly and ill-behaved, but the real things didn't exactly handle like... well, slot cars. (There was a little trouble in Turn 1.) I'm open to suggestions for wheels and tires. Not necessarily for more grip, just something round and true and tall enough to look right. I'm not a car collector, but I'm looking seriously at the RRR fairgrounds bodies. I wish they had a Mopar.

Track power is 14V, and feels about right with 60-Ohm controllers. There's no timing system; we just chase each other around the track, and it's a hoot. The only downforce is Standard Earth Gravity, and that's the way I like it. It doesn't hold one driver's interest very long, but with two or three the action stays pretty hot.

The area outside the track gets handled for transport so I don't plan to do any landscaping, but I'm not real happy with this shade of green- it looks kind of cartoony. All I can think of to add is maybe a Leadfoot Speedway billboard off one corner, and for a winter project I might laminate the walls with stir-sticks for a little more authenticity.

Thanks for looking and I hope you like it. I've just joined the forum, but I've been nibbling around the edges for some time now. Love looking at other people's cars and tracks.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Five more.


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## jph49 (Nov 20, 2003)

That really looks sharp. The little details give it life. The fence and the signs look great.

I bet it's a blast with three cars blasting through the turns.

Do the cars work with standard pick-up shoes or did you have to attach braid?

Thanks for sharing.


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Fantastic! :thumbsup:


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

I replaced the shoes with braid. I have some pictures, but I can't get to them right now. The downside is that other people's cars won't work, but that's not really a problem; I'll just modify the few cars I'll have.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*Omg !*

Brian- OMG, your Track is Freakin' AWESOME ! Your skills at track building and modeling are Truly Artwork ! :thumbsup: I'd love to have my Cars run on your track. Ohhh....so you added Braids to your shoes !


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

The stock shoes are gone in favor of 1/10" braid. A picture (ok, maybe two or three pictures) are worth a thousand words, and I'll post them next week.


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## Harold Sage (Apr 6, 2008)

Hi bdsharp 
I'm in agreement with Ralphthe3rd. That track is Freakin Awesome. So what would be the cost of making something like that. 
would love to have a track like that, I have a couple sprint cars that would look cool going around that.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*Omg !*

Brian !...your modeling is totally OVER THE EDGE ! This is just soooo cool looking ! I'm humbled by your modeling skills and eye for details :thumbsup:


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks, Harold. I didn't really keep track of costs, but I assure you it was low-budget or it wouldn't have happened. I doubt it's over $150 not counting tools, cars, controllers and power supply. The table is 3/16 hardboard framed with 1x2 pine. (It's just sitting on sawhorses.) Track came from a half-sheet of 1/2" MDF. Graphics were essentially free. Infield is two $5 ceiling tiles and a couple small bags of Woodland Scenics turf and grass. Light poles and rail fences used a few dollars' worth of basswood strips from the hobby shop. The bells were almost nothing, and the LEDs were a buck each. DC connectors were maybe $4 each. Add in a little shipping, paint, glue and odd knick-knacks, and it was still really pretty cheap.

Thanks for the compliments, Ralph. I wish I had a bunch of your cars taking some laps and dressing up the infield.

Brian


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Perhaps it wasnt costly to build...

but your artistry is priceless!


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Great looking track! Your modeling skills are great :thumbsup:


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Hi, Bill. I've been catching up on old threads, and Model Murdering and the wonders of Goop is great! My "other car" is a '69 Barracuda, and I've known about dissolving ABS plastic shavings in MEK to repair mounting tabs and such on grills and instrument panels, but I've just slathered it on with a popsicle stick where it doesn't show. Never thought about thinning it to sprayable for a finish coat. You do extraordinary restoration work, but I think I'll stick to $15 off-the-rack cars.


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Hats off to you man. That's awesome. Beauty in simplicity.

I built my table and track and have spent countless hours trying to get the same sort of atmosphere that you've created in your setup, and haven't managed it yet. 

I salute you!

(and I'm gonna hork a couple of your ideas :hat

What did you use for grass? I cant tell if you raided the spice rack or just painted it on.


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## fordcowboy (Dec 27, 1999)

Great track . It alsome for sure. I love the detail. fcb


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Hork on, dude! I've done enough of that myself. (But I didn't know I was "horking".) The grass is WS turf; Coarse Light Green or something like that. Funny about the spice rack- the bare ground is also something from WS, but I did mix in some corn meal.

I picked something with minimal scenery on purpose. I stand in awe of the guys who can take a chunk of pink foam from Home Depot and turn it into something that would fool a geologist. It's a lot easier to make a handful of sawdust look like dirt.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Great stuff BD... Reminds me of Bob Hardin's layout. A definite cut above. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Got a video cam ???


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Wow!!! Nice bullring.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

That just looks GREAT!!!! The three lanes look more natural than four,
and the slight bank makes it drivable. I bet its a blast!!! 

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

bdsharp said:


> Hork on, dude! I've done enough of that myself. (But I didn't know I was "horking".) The grass is WS turf; Coarse Light Green or something like that. Funny about the spice rack- the bare ground is also something from WS, but I did mix in some corn meal.
> 
> I picked something with minimal scenery on purpose. I stand in awe of the guys who can take a chunk of pink foam from Home Depot and turn it into something that would fool a geologist. It's a lot easier to make a handful of sawdust look like dirt.


lol. For sure. I was gonna go the ceiling tile route, but didn't have any, and I couldn't find a place that would sell me just a couple of them....had to buy a whole case if I wanted those. Also, I sort of figured a couple of club nights with lifelike and G plus cars bouncing across it might make ceiling tile deteriorate fast. On an oval like yours it wouldn't matter because de-slots head toward the walls, not your pit scenery.

What I ended up doing was grabbing a couple slices of 1/4 inch osb and used a jigsaw to cut pieces that would fit the "green space" between the track, ergo making the whole table flush with the track. Then I used the old tabletop wargamers technique of painting 50/50 white glue/water on the board and sprinkling fine sand on it. For the grassy areas its great. (I used some dehydrated parsley ground up fine for grass.) For the dirt/gravel pit areas....just wasn't happy with the way it turned out, and am still working on a solution. Even my fine sand was too coarse for my liking.

However, my landlord, in all their wisdom, has decided that in order to keep the value of the house up, they need to turn their unfinished (the way I like it) basement into a finished one. So my slot cave is currently a shambles, and we're getting ready to move again. So my stuff is on hold....again.


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Brian, when I first saw the thumbnail images in your first post I thought you had pictures of an actual real world circuit that you were going to try and model. Man, was I blown away when I clicked the first one and then the rest.

Absolutely outstanding job, thanks for posting it for all to admire.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## travis1960 (Apr 25, 2004)

Very cool track!

:dude:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Bill Hall said:


> Perhaps it wasnt costly to build...
> 
> but your artistry is priceless!


100% right on the money!! It's got to be a blast to run in the dark under the track lights!! As far as visitors playing on you track, it wouldn't take much to make a few sets of braided "loaner" shoes to equip their cars with. Awesome detail job, and you're making me want to try something like this some day. Heck, my little table would fit it quite well.... :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

When taking the rustic path, there's a fine line between "detail" and "boo-boo". (I meant to do that. Yeah, that's it.) I don't have the skills for something like an ultra-modern F1 type circuit where anything out-of-square really advertises itself.

Here's what I did with the braids. It pretty much makes the cars unique to my track, but I don't think I've painted myself into too much of a corner, especially since it can be reversed and the shoes put back on.


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## slotcardan (Jun 9, 2012)

you could also go the Super II route with the braids

basically some braid was resistance soldered to the normal contact shoes.









this could be reversed just replacing the shoes.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Yeah, I should have at least experimented with that (and still might). But this way, I don't have to fiddle with spring pressure and it eliminates the hook-hinge point, which can be troublesome.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Wow - Great cars and outstanding track! Very impressive :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Some cool modern day engineering guys :thumbsup::thumbsup:...RM


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## DaleFan (Aug 2, 2003)

*A* for Awesome


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Great conversion!

Getting rid of all the lower monkey motion is a nifty idea. Simple and sturdy design. I'll be filing it away for plagiarizing at a later date.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Thanks, but I believe the correct term is "horking".


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Proper use of the word can be found here.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

I figured it must be a Canadian thing. In America, "hork" is what your cat does when it gets a hairball.


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Lol. Actually its more of a "Bob n Doug ism" than a Canadian one. Its a blurry line but its there. Those guys even use the word "eh" way too much, and wrong half the time. Although yes, my countrymen do indeed own the word eh and use it frequently. 

But mostly, Canucklehead talk fell out of vogue in the 80s. It was sort of like the Valley Girl thing, stupid, catchy and very short lived. And no one EVER told anyone to "take off" (that only came about cuz you couldn't say F off on TV.) 

Anyway, around here hork usually means....sort of like yours except it refers to people and the sound you make when you spit up a big loogie. Ie "hey kid, don't hork on the sidewalk. Its gross, eh?" 

There's your sidebar lesson in Canadian English for the day.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I don't know about nobody ever using the "Take Off" acryomin,i remember hearing it a fair bit in my younger days Trev,lol:wave:
The one that gets me is how far south the Red Green show is going these days,Red aka Steve Smith is my hero,lol:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Anyway, not to let the thread got completely off track with our discussion of regional lingo, back to Leadfoot Speedway.

I'm actually curious about the fencing. How is it held on there? Got a pic of it from the outside of the track?

Also, would you mind pointing me towards the site you got the fenceboard image from? I'm not doing a wooden fence, but am curious whet they've got. 

Till then, keep your stick on the ice. And remember that if the women can't find ya handsome, at least let them find ya handy. :wave:


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

The walls are 1/8" tempered hardboard about 4" high, drilled and countersunk every 4" or so for #4 flathead screws driven into the edge of the track, which is raised about an inch and a half because of the banking. The wall goes down to the table outside the turns, but is not attached there. Doesn't seem to need it; the curve of the wall gives it extra rigidity, and the whole assembly is very solid, giving a satisfying _thunk_ on impact.

The site I got the fencing from is cgtextures.com. I'm not a Photoshop user, but I've found that MS Publisher is handy for positioning, resizing and printing. I printed the fence sections a little too tall and trimmed it after gluing with a razor blade. I used a foam brush for a 50% Elmer's/water mix on the back of the prints, and stuck 'em on. Use enough glue mix to allow you a couple seconds to slide the prints into final position before it tacks up. The cover stock weight paper is a must- easier handling and doesn't wrinkle with the water-based glue.

It would be a good thing, which I haven't done yet, to spray the prints with clear acrylic after installation. Without it, the ink-jet ink will spot with any drops of water (or Moosehead, eh?).


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

You have successfuly discouraged me from building a roadcourse and encouraged me to throw down my 12 and 15's for a good ol fashioned dirt track oval. Very nice track you ha ve sir.


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

Sorry double post..


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## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

WOW!! Am I glad I checked this out! I was just getting ready to build my oval track. I've got the table built and was getting ready to order some 12" turns, now I'm just going to get some MDF and router one.
I'm loving that conversion on the chassis too! That is slick.I'm going to steal that idea and use it on my cars.
Just a couple of questions, what size router bit did you use and where do you get your braid?


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

It's a 1/16" slot, and the braid is 0.1" desoldering braid from an electronics supply place (Newark Electronics, Digi-Key, etc.). Radio Shack might have it- I haven't looked.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

bdsharp said:


> Here's what I did with the braids. It pretty much makes the cars unique to my track, but I don't think I've painted myself into too much of a corner, especially since it can be reversed and the shoes put back on.


Great artistry on the track! I'd be interested to know what method you used to lay the copper tape accurately.

On the braid conversion, I don't see how the braid is held in place. I assume it is forced under the little metal strip at the front of the chassis and then bent underneath the chassis.

In looking at how you placed the metal strip, I was wondering whether it would be a more solid design to have the metal strip go all the way back to where the pickup shoe hook would go. You then "snap" or "hook" the metal strip into the pickup shoe slot. You could even drill a small hole in the metal strip to fit over the spring "dimple" so the strip lies flat. It would then snap in place in the front just as you have done.  To reverse the conversion, just remove the metal strip.

Thanks...Joe


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

The taping job isn't as accurate as you might think; I just stuck it down by hand, trying to maintain about 1/16-1/8" from the edge of the slot. The dimensions are a lot more forgiving than with a rail-and-shoe arrangement.

The braid is tack-soldered to the brass hook on the top side of the chassis, and folded over to the bottom. Use minimal solder and heat time so the solder doesn't wick through the braid (as it's designed to do) and make the braid stiff.


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## jamied (Dec 31, 2011)

The Leadfoot Speedway looks like an old established track. 

Excellent workmanship and photography too!

Think the infield looks good.

What did you use to weather the sponsor signs?

What card stock weight did you use for the walls and signs?

Hope you'll post video of racing action.

jaime


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

I used cover stock paper (65 lbs?), buff-colored so the white areas aren't really white. The heavier card stock would work too if you already have it, but unnecessarily expensive if you're buying something. For weathering, I shot cheap brown acrylic craft paint thinned with water through the $10 Harbor Freight airbrush. Flicking thinned paint off a toothbrush would probably work just as well.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Haven't posted for a while because I had a bit of a setback with the Speedway, and I've been kinda bah-humbug about the whole thing.

It spent last winter leaning against the wall out in the garage, and over the course of the season all the copper tape let go and made a pile of shiny spaghetti on the garage floor. The track was painted with semi-flat latex, and I wonder if the slight texture kept the tape from sticking well. I also have a track I did many years ago done on gloss paint for silicones, and it's showing no signs of lifting, residing only a few feet away.

Or did I just have a bad batch of tape?

I think I'm going to repaint with gloss and put down new tape. A gloss-painted track is stickier than I might have thought, even with no magnets and plain rubber tires, because of the greater contact area. I'll have to let it warm up a bit first, and I'll let y'all know how it goes.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Oh man, that stinks!!! I hope the gloss works for you! Your track rocks, and that picture just became my computer background!! Thank you!!!


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## ratfink03 (Apr 9, 2015)

Awesome track. Great scenery as it is so realistic. Something I too, hope to achieve on my current build. Beautiful !!!!!!!


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## Rick Voegelin (Oct 27, 2006)

I have long admired photos of this track, but had never stumbled across the complete thread -- until this post suddenly popped up again today. This is way beyond excellent. Fantastic realism and atmosphere, achieved with ordinary materials and amazing artistic talent. Very, very inspiring, and I am planning to "borrow" the techniques and materials for my track with enthusiasm.

Thank you!
Rick V.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Thank you for the compliments.

I neglected to post an update when I re-taped the track. The original tape was some left over from another project, and I think it was just too old. The new tape survived the winter well on the semi-flat paint, so I think that was it.

When I can get three drivers at the same time, maybe I'll try to get some video.


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## Rick Voegelin (Oct 27, 2006)

It's great to hear that Leadfoot Speedway is alive and well! I have ordered my buff cardstock, spent last night searching for vintage beer and spark plug logos, going to Big Box Store for ceiling tiles on Monday, and constantly referring back to the original photo posting. This track just gets cooler every time I look at it.

Would you share some details on the floodlights? You mentioned using coaxial connectors for the base and mounts, and that's clever. What did you use for the poles themselves, and how did you route the wires to the LEDs on the cross-shafts so that they are invisible? The devil is in the details . . . <g>

It's marvelous to see this thread active again!

Thanks,
Rick V.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

I'll put together some details on the light fixtures.

Meanwhile, if you're thinking about building a small oval, here's a word of warning: it just doesn't stay fun very long. At least not for me. I had much more fun building it that running on it, and I have begun to think of it as a diorama with a few moving parts. If your space is extremely limited, the current hollow door track thread is the one to pay attention to.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

The first picture shows the parts I used. Not shown are two pieces of wire; I used 30ga stranded. You want small wire. Current is not an issue, and they have to fit through the hole in the main support. Polarity is important with LEDs, so mark a tracer on one wire with a Sharpie, I call that one negative, or use two colors. The main support is 1/8 x 1/4” basswood. Cut a groove the full length of the shorter piece and to within about 1/8” of the end of the longer one. The light buckets are Christmas bells from the craft store that I aged in the rock tumbler with some wet sand. Poke holes for T1-3/4 (5mm) white LEDs, and push them in from the back side of the bells. The diffusers, or lenses, are discs of thin fiberglass cut with a circular punch, but anything translucent will work. The rest of the lumber is basswood, coffee stirrers, Popsicle sticks, whatever you have.

Glue the small block to the top of the long piece where the groove stops before the end. Clamp the shorter piece on, groove to groove, leaving a space equal to the width of the crosspiece. Make sure you can fish two wires. If so, remove the wires and glue it. If not, unclamp and dig out the groove some more, then glue.

Make the now square support into a round pole. The basswood carves and sands easily. Re-fish the wires, put them through the center hole of the crosspiece, and making sure you have several inches of free wire at both ends, glue on the crosspiece. Note the orientation of the holes in the crosspiece for the LEDs (they’re on 0.1” centers). You’ll probably glue the wire in place in the process, but that’s ok.

Push the LED leads through the holes in the crosspiece. The long lead is positive, and the negative lead has a flat on the LED body. Leave enough space between the LED and the crosspiece to allow bending the LED down and out to an angle you like. Flatten the leads against the back of the crosspiece, trim and solder. You’ve put two LEDs in series, more on that later. Glue on the diagonal braces.

Glue on the back cover to hide the wiring.

Continued in next post.


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## Rick Voegelin (Oct 27, 2006)

Agreed on oval track burnout. I'm planning to apply some of your scenery and diorama techniques to my routed four-lane HO track. But I've been seriously thinking about building a portable oval that I can take to car club meetings and shows . . . every Saturday morning, there is a "Cars & Coffee" gathering near me. I'm thinking it would be cool to have a table-top track that I can throw in the bed of my pickup truck, set up in a minute or two, and run the cars on batteries, an inverter from the pickup, or a small generator.

I'm thinking a small oval would work well for this, because it doesn't require a lot of practice to drive, and we can have three or four guys racing each other. Very basic, just maximum laughs for minimum dollars. I also have a portable HO strip, but it's a project to set up and take down, and needs a pretty big piece of flat real estate. A self-contained oval with Fairgrounds style cars might be a great alternative for my gearhead friends.

Thanks for all your advice!
Rick V.


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Glue in the diffusers, and you’re in business. Test with 6V, observing polarity.

I painted them with brown craft paint, thinned to let some grain show, then dry-brushed with a little black for Creosote. I used the connectors as an easy way to remove the lights for track storage; I hope they sort of look like the wood poles are set in concrete bases. If you don't need to remove them, just set the lights in holes.

Each pole assembly has two 3V LEDs in series, so you’ll need to provide 6V DC at 30mA to each pole. If you’re using track power, you’ll need a series resistor to drop the excess voltage:
(track voltage – 6) / 0.03 = resistor value in ohms (go to next higher standard value, and at least 1/2 Watt power rating)


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## bdsharp (Sep 27, 2012)

Oh yeah, one more warning. The ceiling tiles were a bit thicker than the track, and I used a coarse disc sander to bring them down to level. It made an _obscene_ amount of dust. I did it on the driveway; don't even consider doing it inside. If you think routing slots in MDF is messy, you ain't seen nothin' yet. To do it over, I would probably layer up cardboard in whatever combination to make it level, and put your dirt/turf/gravel on top of that.

I wish now that I had taken construction photos through the project, but there aren't any difficult concepts here.


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## Rick Voegelin (Oct 27, 2006)

Excellent how-to on the LED floodlights! Your tutorial writing is as exceptional as your track building. The wooden poles look very realistic with the craft paint and "creosote" treatment. After all nothing looks more like wood than wood <g>.

I was trying to figure out how I'd drill a hole on center through a 6" piece of dowel . . . your groove idea is much better! In that same vein, how did you attach the plugs to the poles? I'm sure your idea is better than mine . . .

Thanks for the heads-up on ceiling tiles. I like the idea of having some contours in the infield rather than a flat surface. Our local 1:1 dirt track has fairly significant berms on the inside of the corners that would add some visual interest to a slot car version. Since one of my goals is to build a very lightweight track, perhaps styrofoam or expanded PVC is a better choice to fill in the infield and add some terrain.

Many thanks!
Rick V.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Your lights look great! You can run your lights at 14 volts if you wire two poles in series. I wrote an article on doing similar lights several years ago, if anyone would like a copy just drop me a PM with your e-mail address.
I have found that while racing on an oval is a lot of fun just running by yourself can quickly get boring. I have a MaxTrax and I can convert that from a road course to an oval with lights.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Your lights look great! You can run your lights at 14 volts if you wire two poles in series. I wrote an article on doing similar lights several years ago, if anyone would like a copy just drop me a PM with your e-mail address.
I have found that while racing on an oval is a lot of fun just running by yourself can quickly get boring. I have a MaxTrax and I can convert that from a road course to an oval with lights.


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