# Poulan Pro BVM 200 VS blower



## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

Won't start. Plug sparking OK. Plug seems to be dry though. Fuel bulb acts funny. Could carb be the problem? All the parts suppliers say there are type 1 and type 2 engines. How to tell the difference?
Thanks.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Hello and Welcome to Hobby Talk.The only difference between the type 1 and type 2 is a heat shield behind the muffler on the type 2.They both use a Walbro WT847 carb that takes a D20-WAT repair kit.Make sure your fuel lines are not cracked and the gas filter is not broken off the fuel line in the tank.It sounds like a carb cleaning/rebuild should correct the fuel problem.If you have a compression gage,make sure the engine has at least 90 to 100 psi when trying to start it.The mounting bolts that hold the cylinder to the crankcase have a tendency to come loose on these models,so make sure they are tight.Here is a picture of the muffler heat shield (#4)in the picture,on the type 2 engine.Also a link to the WT carb breakdown.Hope this helps and let us know how you progress.

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/produc...47-1&GroupName=Power Blower&FamilyName=POULAN


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## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

Thanks usmcgrunt, 
Just got your message this a.m. Called Dixie Sales Co and ordered D20-wat kit. 
13.50 inc. shipping. I'll let you know how it goes.
casefile


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## JenaLove (Apr 4, 2012)

how's it going casefile?


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## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

usmcgrunt; Got the D 20-WAT rep. kit. Can't believe all that stuff in there. Replaced diaphragm. I don't think I can repace all those gaskets-etc. without more info. Of course it still wouldnt start.I'm sure it's the carb, as I removed the spark plug and put a few drops of fuel in the cylinder, replaced plug and it fired up for a second or so. The fuel filter in the carb was clean and I blew out the one in the tank. Any suggestions? Thanks, casefile


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## dawgpile (Apr 28, 2008)

At a minimum, you should replace 4 parts. A gasket and a diaphragm on each side of the carb. The diaphragm on one side is called the "metering" diaphragm. Note that on this side of the carb, the gasket goes on the carb first, then the metering diaphragm, then the cover(or next part). The metering diaphragm is the one with a round disc with holes in it attached to the rubber membrane.

The diaphragm on the other side of the carb is called the "fuel pump" diaphragm. This will be either black rubber or a translucent blue plastic. (It essentially has two flaps that act as check valves) Note that it goes directly against the carb, then the gasket, then the cover(or next part).

Keep in mind that the D20 kit is used with a 'kabillion' different carbs, so you will have extra parts. No worry. If you cleaned the screen on pump side and blew everything out, you should be good to go.

Finally, you didn't elaborate on the 'fuel bulb acts funny'. Does it compress and not come back out? As I mentioned in another post, I'd check the fuel filter in the tank by actually blowing/sucking on it to make sure it's free-flowing. A partial restriction can cause an otherwise 'healthy' primer bulb to not come back out. If in doubt, I'd replace it. You can pick one of these up at an auto parts store. I have Advance and Auto Zone in my area and they both have them for a couple of bucks.

Let us know how you make out!


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## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

Dawgpile, Thanks for info. I replaced fuel pump gasket and diaphragm. I also attached a clear piece of tubing to the fuel line to carb and it flows easily. I put some fuel mix in a Sure-Shot sprayer and sprayed carb inlet and got it running and it would run as long as I kept spraying. I'm baffled..... Any other suggestions ? Thanks much. casefile


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## dawgpile (Apr 28, 2008)

As I suggested in the previous post, I'd replace the metering diaphragm and gasket on the other side of the carb before I did anything else. They are in the D20 kit. So, the primer bulb is not acting 'funny' any more?


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## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

dawgpile, 
thanks for the response. Yesterday I did replace the metering diaphragm & gasket and the result was what I posted yesterday. I think the fuel bulb is ok, but sometimes it won't return all the way. To double check, the big fuel line goes to the bulb and littler line to carb block. Thanks, casefile.


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## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

dawgpile,

Did a little more digging around in carb. Pulled little round fuel filter screen out of carb and reassembled without fuel filter. Tested OK. Stuck it back on blower and it fired right up. Ends up that was problem from get-go. Cleaned by heating screen with a Benzo-Matic torch until red hot and after it cooled brushed with small wire brush on both sides. Thanks to all that helped with their replys and to HobbyTalk.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Good job.Glad to hear you got it all sorted out.A running motor sure sounds pretty!!!:thumbsup:


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## Spit (Nov 3, 2006)

Didn't the rebuild kit have new screens in it?
Spit


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## casefile (Apr 13, 2012)

Spit said:


> Didn't the rebuild kit have new screens in it?
> Spit



No the D-20WAT repair kit did not come with the fuel screen. The K-20WAT kit does come with screen. Guess they want you to buy both kits. I fig my problem was probably the diaphragm.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Make sure the cylinder bolts are tight, hold the blower and see if you can move the muffler, if so the cylinder is loose and you have a massive air leak. Have a good one. Geo


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## SoulSnatcher (Aug 10, 2021)

geogrubb said:


> Make sure the cylinder bolts are tight, hold the blower and see if you can move the muffler, if so the cylinder is loose and you have a massive air leak. Have a good one. Geo


Very good point! That is a VERY common problem with these and even though this is a very old post, its still relevant even today. I just fixed one 15 years later with that very same problem.


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