# Slimline Hop Up parts?



## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

Did anyone ever market better magnets or arms for the slimline? 

Also, I read somewhere about supplementing the strength of the weak slimline magnets by piggybacking them with rare earth magnets or something of that sort. Has anyone ever heard of this or done it?


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## tjetcar (Jul 7, 2009)

I haven't heard of the magnet thing. I have found some green arms. I only have one that runs real good, give a tjet a run for its money. I do use thunder brushes in mine. don't know if there still available. But to answer your question, don't know of any hop up parts.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

no aftermarket parts
folks have used polymer inline magnets cut down to replace original.
there are a few folks that will rewind hotter armatures.

I have replaced the original brushes with t-jet brushes by carefully boring out the holes on a burned chassis.
this serves to allow better electrical molecule flow and slightly advance timing.

rear gearing can be changed carefully.

using all existing parts from other Aurora products


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## ajd350 (Sep 18, 2005)

Can those magnets be used with the stock arms?

Where can I find the 9-tooth gear for the arms?

I have done the reverse rotation mod to rhe chassis and it works well.


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## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

alpink said:


> no aftermarket parts
> folks have used polymer inline magnets cut down to replace original.
> 
> I have replaced the original brushes with t-jet brushes by carefully boring out the holes on a burned chassis.
> this serves to allow better electrical molecule flow and slightly advance timing.


Thanks for the tips. I think I'll definitely try the inline magnets at minimum.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

LOOSE!

Due to the tiny armature and wimpy magnets, the most important part of working the bugs out of a slimline is getting all the mechanicals free to eliminate ANY source of friction. 

As they are already anemic from the get go, it's very important to get the wheels and tires perfect. Just one minor glitch of a possible eight, and you got yourself a lame duck. 

Then add the thunderslims, and some competition shoes (instead of the stock clunkers). A neo conversion for magnets is pretty simple if you're allowed.


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

Bill Hall said:


> LOOSE!
> 
> Due to the tiny armature and wimpy magnets, the most important part of working the bugs out of a slimline is getting all the mechanicals free to eliminate ANY source of friction.
> 
> ...


Question; are DASH magnets, the same "Curvature" or inside diameter?? 
(I realize they will have to be shortened on both ends... )

Bubba 123 :freak::wave:


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

Like Bill Hall said getting rid of all the friction is the Number 1 thing to do fro a slim-line. Weird Jack taught me a trick fro the slim-lines. Hold the rear wheels between your thumb and forefinger ad set the rear wheels on the table. The Chassis should easily fall down. The first pace to work on is the clearance between the crown gear and chassis almost every slim-line I have bought is too tight there. Get the rear end nice and loos then lap the gears and lap them again. Replace the motor brushes with JB's and good rear tires and wheels and you shoul have a competitive Slim-line.

You can put a set of vincent rims on the rear with soem Penn Valley silicones stretched on the rear and on vincents and his tires on the front. Replace the pickups with BSRT's copper AFX ski shoes if you can find them. Add some tungsten putty behind the front axel. This chassis will fit just about an LWB sports car or GTP car body you can find and will set very low.


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## SCJ (Jul 15, 1999)

Yes, there are hop up parts for this chassis, but they are vintage..... LeGanke made several including a very cool weight pan. While I've never doen it myself, I've heard of folks taking an AFX specialty chassis crown gear and making it fit to add speed.


We used to race this chassis/class.......first thing to do (and I've found the most consistent issue for this type chassis) is the armature hole in the bottom of the chassis is way too small.


Simple fix is to take an awl and press firmly from both outside and inside but not enough to screw up the brush holes......then as mentioned better axles and thunder brushes.


I have several that compete with my best stock Aurora tuff-ones chassis (stock w/ silicone press on tires) for speed and with a weight pan, Aj's silicones and skinny F1 body handle better in the turns.






------------------------------
www.SlotCarJohnnies.com


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

Like Al said, i sure wish somebody would repop the 9t arm gear. It is just like the standard Tjet 9t gear except hole is smaller to fit the skinny arm shaft. Anybody know of a source?

Ron


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## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

I think better magnets would still be the best improvement besides all of the tuning tips provided. i know Dash scrapped their own slimline project, but it would have been nice to at least see Dash make magnets for the existing Slimline.


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## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

Bubba 123 said:


> Question; are DASH magnets, the same "Curvature" or inside diameter??
> (I realize they will have to be shortened on both ends... )
> 
> Bubba 123 :freak::wave:


Slightly different curvature. Might still work though


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## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

alpink said:


> no aftermarket parts
> folks have used polymer inline magnets cut down to replace original.
> there are a few folks that will rewind hotter armatures.
> 
> ...


Hey Al,

when you bored out the holes to use regular size brushes, did you ream out the hole evenly on all edges or did you just work a bigger hole towards the center? I am afraid that by reaming evenly all the way around that I will encroach the raised solder on the poles.


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## bolts69 (Dec 24, 2009)

How or what would you use to cut dash magnets down to fit?


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

One thing I have been meaning to try is to see if the inline replacement motor brushes will work, you would just have to cut them down.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

If you bore the brush holes out for super II cups and regular brushes, you need to watch a couple of things, you want to keep the entire brush on the com plate, and rotating the brush hole counter clockwise (looking down into the chassis) will increase the timing, and on that small armature your going to get a pretty big timing change with a small amount of change in the chassis. That can be a problem especially if your also changing magnets.

I have built several of the slimmies that run really well, including a rewind. The big key is to remove all the drag (as was mentioned).

I have used inline ceramic magnets, and also zapped the originals, the air gap on the ceramics is what I consider to be large, it was the only way to keep the heat down from the strong magnets. I would not do a timing change via the brushes and a magnet upgrade on a stock arm, I think you would fry it before you got the bugs worked out on it. 

The balance on these little arms is not the best, so a good static balance and straightening the of the com plate does wonders as well.

The slimmie is just like any other Aurora t-jet, except the parts are smaller, magnets are weaker, and the arm is more fragile. The same principals for building a "hot" one applies. Just a word of caution, watch the heat very closely, if it get warm quickly do not run it until you figure out what it going on, they melt down easily. 

If you get a slimmie to run good, the next one to try is an Aurora motorcycle, they are a blast when you get them about 2x as fast as they originally were. 

Boosted


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

I saw on another thread that Dan Cashmer is considering having stronger Slimline magnets made. The cost per magnet and the minimum order would have to be reasonable for that to happen.
Possibly a regular T-Jet 9 tooth drive pinion could be swaged so that it could be used as a Slimline armature pinion. What is the diameter of a Slimline armature shaft?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

given that Dan had all the works in motion to produce replica slimlines, I am pretty sure he already has the info on the magnets and is either in a magnet production run or has cancelled it.


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

Rich Dumas said:


> I saw on another thread that Dan Cashmer is considering having stronger Slimline magnets made. The cost per magnet and the minimum order would have to be reasonable for that to happen.
> Possibly a regular T-Jet 9 tooth drive pinion could be swaged so that it could be used as a Slimline armature pinion. What is the diameter of a Slimline armature shaft?


The slimline arm shaft is .044" vs the standard arm shaft .063". That is a long way to swage.


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## RT-HO (May 27, 2009)

I had a couple of slim lines long ago.
Loved the bodies but not the chassis.
I can easily make a precision CNC 9 tooth gear with the smaller hole.
Are the rest of the gears the same as a T-Jet?
Is there much demand for these parts?

Rick


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

Hi Rick - I would buy a few.


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## wheelszk (Jul 8, 2006)

I would buy some.


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## hartracerman (Jan 9, 2005)

I would too!


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## Paul R (Nov 3, 2009)

I think the demand would be much less than the demand for standard T-Jet gears.


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

Just heard Dash will have new Slim-Line magnets in 6-8 weeks


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## rholmesr (Oct 8, 2010)

Wow -- If dash magnets plus RTHO gears were available, you could make a "Fray style" slimmy! _That _would be fun!!


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Dan Cashmer has said that the new Slimline magnets will be the ferrite ceramic type, in that case they should be at least twice as strong as the original ones were.
I would not want to swage a 9 tooth gear that much, I was not aware that the armature shaft was so small.


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

magnets would be awesome, I have a handful of slimline cars that run, just want to boost them. Chassis would be out of this world, but I can wait and run what I have with new magnets. Sign me up for 15 pair


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## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

Well it figures because I had already gone ahead and did what I did before learning that Dash was making SlimLine Magnets. But here it is anyways.

From this site:
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/magnet-university 

The question was asked:
Will stacking magnets make them stronger?

The answer posted was:
Yes. Stacking two identical magnets will behave similar to a solid magnet of the same dimensions as the two stacked magnets.

So while I did not have two identical magnets, the theory should still hold that stacking even a different size magnets should result in strength better than just the one.

So I drilled holes into my Slimline chassis and placed AutoWorld dot magnets in the holes so they sit and touch right behind the factory crap magnets.

I don't know how much improved it is but I am sold and am a believer that it helped. The motor hums quite nicely now. And I can also remove the dot magnets if I wish and add the Dash Slimlines that I signed up for pre-order.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

mayan, thanks for the pics


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

> Just heard Dash will have new Slim-Line magnets in 6-8 weeks





> Stacking two identical magnets will behave similar to a solid magnet of the same dimensions as the two stacked magnets.
> ...
> So I drilled holes into my Slimline chassis and placed AutoWorld dot magnets in the holes so they sit and touch right behind the factory crap magnets.


I had wondered about doing that same thing. HO model railroaders are finding that just replacing the original magnets in '60s era locomotives with neodymium magnets yields large performance increases that make barely-functioning old engines perform well. Apparently time alone has caused substantial weakening of the original motor magnets over the years. Removing the old iron magnets and dropping in a stack of Neos of the same thickness (even if other dimensions differ) can give substantially better-than-original performance to these old veteran engines.

Does anyone have a sense of how much performance improvement JUST going to stronger magnets is likely to give a Slimline, without addressing the SL's other problems (timing, etc.). Does it bring Slimline performance to a level comparable to an original stock-magnet T-jet?

-- D


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## Mayan2012 (Apr 12, 2015)

alpink said:


> mayan, thanks for the pics


you're welcome. And for what it's worth if anyone wants to do the same thing, I used a long drill bit and made one pass from the front all the way through both sides to the back. This is the only way to get the proper height for the rear dot magnet.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Of the slimmies that I have blue printed to damn near what you would do to a Fray build, I have had very good results, this included new magnets, my first slimmie I used some inline magnets and glued them in the chassis (that was all that was available at the time) I trued the com stack, balanced and polished the armature shaft, and drilled the brush holes for normal t-jet brushes. As for performance it runs very cool, nearly 2x as fast as your normal out of the box slimmie, you can turn many laps and it does not back down, as for speed its about as fast as an above average t-jet, nothing near an all out fray build or a Muscle-T with a mean green or quad. While I will say they seem to handle decent and are a blast to drive as well, I really like running them with the truck body, just a neat setup. 

I cant wait to get some dash magnets to try another slimmie build


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

.

Looking for the magic ...


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

Mayan2012 said:


> Well it figures because I had already gone ahead and did what I did before learning that Dash was making SlimLine Magnets. But here it is anyways.
> 
> From this site:
> http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/magnet-university
> ...


Nifty, you rotten little cheater.:thumbsup:


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## RT-HO (May 27, 2009)

CNC top gear sets for Aurora Slim line are in stock!


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