# Buy Smooth Saucer or Sand 1-350th Enterprise?



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

For those of us who already have the 1/350th PL Enterprise kit, what does everyone plan to do considering the impending release of the "smooth" saucer?

Although I'm not eager to do the sanding/filling/etc. as depicted on all the build threads, I'm not eager to have an unuseable saucer lurking about, either... OTOH, the price is lower than I expected, so it's QUITE tempting to just spend the $, and toss the thing.

What to do...

Tom


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

I already have my grid about 98% filled, but I will still be getting a smooth one.

I see places where my sanding was uneven. Some places the grid has been completely sanded away.

I think the price tag is well worth the savings in putty and labor.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Rahn said:


> I already have my grid about 98% filled, but I will still be getting a smooth one.
> 
> I see places where my sanding was uneven. Some places the grid has been completely sanded away.
> 
> I think the price tag is well worth the savings in putty and labor.


Thanks, Rahn!

Did you do all the sanding by hand? I'm thinking that I have no use for the Saucer with the grid lines, so I'd try to come up with a way to use a sander of some kind. If it works, I won't need the "smoothie" and if doesn't work, then I'll just purchase the "smoothie." It shouldn't take too long to find out that a sander won't work... :grin2:

Someone did a build here in which he sanded off ALL of the grid lines and did NO filling at all. I don't recall who did that, but he was happy with the results and it certainly looked good. *IF* an electric sander does the job, I think I'll avoid the filling and and off all the grid lines.

Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

As a point, I don't think there's a need to throw away the 'grid' saucer if you buy the 'smoothie'. A clever model builder would find a way to turn that lemon into lemonade. 

Damaged crashed 'lifeboat' primary hull diorama is only one possible solution.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Steve H said:


> As a point, I don't think there's a need to throw away the 'grid' saucer if you buy the 'smoothie'. A clever model builder would find a way to turn that lemon into lemonade.
> 
> Damaged crashed 'lifeboat' primary hull diorama is only one possible solution.


My only idea WAS to solicit the Forum for any of the following unused "small" parts:



Neck
Secondary Hull
Nacelles
Nacelle Struts
 
Now however, I DO have a clever idea:

*If you would like to do the crashed saucer diorama yourself,* I'll be happy to take the above, and any other unused parts off you hands for a reasonable price...

Everyone Wins! >

Tom


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## dcarty (Nov 26, 2012)

I'm using mine for paint/lighting tests. I know, bo-ring.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

taneal1 said:


> Someone did a build here in which he sanded off ALL of the grid lines and did NO filling at all. I don't recall who did that, but he was happy with the results and it certainly looked good. *IF* an electric sander does the job, I think I'll avoid the filling and and off all the grid lines.
> Tom


Not sure if that was me or not????:nerd:



 I ended up chucking up the saucers to a lathe & used course grit all the way down to a fine grit.
The only down side of this was , I ended up sanding off the "landing struts".

Not much progress on her. Life keeps getting in the way.
Currently working on my P-38.
-Jim G.G.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JGG1701 said:


> Not sure if that was me or not????:nerd:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Jim!

I thought of that too, but since I don't have a lathe I figured a "spin table" wouldn't be too difficult to construct.

Q1. Are you happy with the results?

Q2. Do you think this was faster than the multiple fillings and sandings that was done in the various builds?

Thanks for your info,

Tom


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

I would think filling in the grids with something like Perfect Plastic Putty and sanding it smooth must be a lot less work than sanding down the surrounding plastic.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

robn1 said:


> I would think filling in the grids with something like Perfect Plastic Putty and sanding it smooth must be a lot less work than sanding down the surrounding plastic.


Per the build threads everyone is doing multiple fillings and sandings to cover the grid lines. Also, I believe that everyone has sanded the entire rough surface on the saucer until that is smooth. I don't know how much deeper the grid lines are than the rough texture on the entire saucer, but it should take off quite a bit of the grid by the time the rest of the surface is smooth.


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## dcarty (Nov 26, 2012)

Phillip1 is another forum member who chose to sand down the hull rather than fill in the grid lines. His build was featured in FineScale Modeller.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-sc...350-uss-enterprise-tos-1st-pilot-version.html


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

dcarty said:


> Phillip1 is another forum member who chose to sand down the hull rather than fill in the grid lines. His build was featured in FineScale Modeller.
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-sc...350-uss-enterprise-tos-1st-pilot-version.html


Thanks. I've seen this thread, and he did a SPECTACULAR job. However, it took him 38 HOURS to sand the saucer. Now that's dedication to doing it right, but that was BEFORE the smooth saucer became an option! 

Any idea how many hours it took on average for those who filled and sanded? I don't recall anyone providing this info...

Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

taneal1 said:


> Thanks. I've seen this thread, and he did a SPECTACULAR job. However, it took him 38 HOURS to sand the saucer. Now that's dedication to doing it right, but that was BEFORE the smooth saucer became an option!
> 
> Any idea how many hours it took on average for those who filled and sanded? I don't recall anyone providing this info...
> 
> Tom


Well, really, there is no average time. How can there be? It depends on the kind of filler used, how careful one wants to be, are you going for glass smooth flawless or 'good enough by eye' and everything. 

filling the lines with Perfect Plastic Putty, wiping it smooth with water, light sanding and sealing, you could probably have a credible finish in maybe 10 hours, maybe less. If you want to 'compete' with the big boys and, again, glass smooth flawless, you'd best be ready to put in the time.

I remember, back in the old old days of auto modeling it was common for car kit builders to put over 100 hours into finishing the body, endless rounds of primer, sand, primer, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand...


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Steve H said:


> Well, really, there is no average time. How can there be?


Steve,

ANY series of numbers can be averaged. 

Therefore the average time to achieve the AVERAGE results can be calculated using addition and division. An answer that satisfies me doesn't require philosophy and a trip back to the 'good old days.' The average results would be in the range between the best result actually achieved and the result that would satisfy a typical modeler on this site.

If anyone would care to provide an estimate as to how long it took them to sand off the grid lines, or fill and sand them, I would be grateful so I can decide whether to sand or purchase a smooth saucer.

Thanks in advance to anyone who would care to provide time estimates!

Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Well, OK, if that's the way you want to go with it, have a good time. But I feel the need to point out a couple of things.

1. Many of the guys doing builds here are so way above average I can't even. And they all have their own long developed techniques to produce the results you see on display. 

2. You're really asking to quantify something that is as much (or more) art than science. I could throw some plastic putty onto the grid lines and give a quick sanding and call it good. Others would spend WEEKS getting it just right. Don't dismiss this truth.

The real defining factor should be, do you want to spend ANY time filling and sanding, or do you want to just get to the build with a smoothie saucer? It's not something...

Wait, another story. Years back when I was a warehouse manager one of my tasks was to run a scrubber over the floor, and before I did that I needed to sweep the floor. My boss, who had never run a scrubber (or sweep a large area floor), leaned on 'time of task' sheets where it called for, example, floor sweeping to take 10 minutes. And I could easily do that task in under 10 minutes. But she had the idea that since the sheet said the task should only take 10 minutes I should sweep at 8 AM and finish by 8:10. 

Problem is, while I'm doing that task I would get called to the delivery door to intake product. And I would have to pause while other workers doing other tasks finished them so I could work, and the phone would ring and a boss would ask me to do something and long story short, just because a task is supposed to take 10 minutes that doesn't mean you can punch a clock on it. We went round and round on this until one day I wasn't there and she had to do all those time marked tasks. Guess what? She couldn't do any of them. The complaints stopped and my efficiency improved.

So just think about how much time you want to spend. You already have at least one data point. 

Again, the REAL choice facing you is "do I want to fuss with filling and sanding (regardless of time) or do I want to just build with the smoothie" . That's all the conundrum is in the end. 

I mean, what, if you do get that data you say you need, and if your own experience turns out to be not lining up with that timeframe, you gonna just quit? If you figure 25 hours of sanding is average and you're on hour 30, what do you do? If you are approaching hour 24 and you're just not happy, what do you do? 

Seems to me it's just easier to just buy the smoothie and do what you want.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Steve H said:


> Well, OK, if that's the way you want to go with it, have a good time. But I feel the need to point out a couple of things.


Steve H:

I made a clear simple request that you NOT turn this thread into a philosophy discussion that is completely unrelated to what I was asking.

You did it anyway. 

Thanks for your cooperation.

When you "feel the need" to ignore a thread starter's request, and do your own thing instead, *why don't you start your own thread?

*Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Kinda...prickly there, ain't ya? Almost like it's more about getting attention than it is communication.

I mean, the few replies you've gotten, your response is generally "yeah, well, I don't think I'll do that" so I'm not at all sure just what you're expecting. 

Someone chucked their saucer parts onto a lathe, you don't have a lathe, maybe a turntable (not gonna work,not as well. not enough speed), another spent 38 hours filling and sanding well that's way too much time for you it seems, can't it be done faster someone tell you it can be done faster...

What perfect answer do you seek? What magic do you think can be told to you? 

The answer is, if you want results like what others have done, you have to put the time and skill in like they have. 

Buy the smoothie saucer parts. Save yourself some grief. Life is too short to get worked up over a model, let alone talking about a model.


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## MartyS (Mar 11, 2014)

The top is pretty easy to fill and sand, the grid lines are narrow and have sharp edges.

The bottom is a completely different beast, the grid lines are wide, deep, and have rounded edges. The rough surface was nothing compared to that, the sanding from working on the grid took care of most of that.

It's been over 2 years since I built mine, so can't remember how many hours it took, thinking it was several hours a day for at least 4 days, maybe 5, don't think it took more than a week. But other parts were being worked on at the same time, so very hard to say how much time was just on the grid lines. I wanted a slight hint of the lines so getting it perfectly smooth would have taken one more pass of filling and sanding.

There are engraved lines that are supposed to be there, so if you sand down the plastic without filling you'd have to cut those lines back into the plastic, that would require a better workshop than I have access to.

If you are lighting it, making the bridge, and the shuttle bay, the time spend on the grid lines is nothing, 280 vs. 300 hours isn't that much of a difference in the long run...


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Steve H said:


> Kinda...prickly there, ain't ya? Almost like it's more about getting attention than it is communication.


Kinda... *overly defensive* and contrary there, ain't ya? And uncooperative. Get a few complaints from other members now don't ya? Undoubtedly some that I haven't even read...

Why didn't you post your speech on another thread - more fun to oppose someone else, eh?

You're one to talk about communication, and "getting attention." Give a lot of unsolicited long rambling speeches on your own PERSONAL philosophy, do ya? Narcissistic much? As far as communication, your response had nothing to do with my question. But of course you know better than I do, what I want to hear...

I'm not getting enough responses? I got too many from you. BTW, I must have missed all the applause and requests that you get on your soapbox and speak at members events.

This will be the last post from me to you, due to the fact that all you want to hear is your own "voice."


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

MartyS said:


> The top is pretty easy to fill and sand, the grid lines are narrow and have sharp edges.
> 
> The bottom is a completely different beast, the grid lines are wide, deep, and have rounded edges. The rough surface was nothing compared to that, the sanding from working on the grid took care of most of that.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Marty!

This is exactly the type of info I wanted to hear for my evaluation of options.

And congratulations - you have just provided a thorough, helpful answer to a question that is "impossible" to answer. At least for one member here...

Tom


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Any way!!!!!!!!*



taneal1 said:


> Thanks, Jim!
> 
> I thought of that too, but since I don't have a lathe I figured a "spin table" wouldn't be too difficult to construct.
> 
> ...


Happy to help Tom.:smile2:

Yes, I am happy with the results.
And yes, definitely _*faster.*_
And I did a pre-oder for the saucer @ Culttvman.
-Jim G.G.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I just looked at Culttvman, he has the whole kit with the smooth saucer for preorder. I haven't seen the smooth saucer by itself there?


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JGG1701 said:


> Happy to help Tom.:smile2:
> 
> Yes, I am happy with the results.
> And yes, definitely _*faster.*_
> ...


Thanks Again, Jim

Is the pre-order for your *next* Enterprise build? (I hope)

Tom


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

And to think, it was not that long ago when people were having knock-down fights about whether there even WERE grid lines! :laugh: Good times... good times...


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## alensatemybuick (Sep 27, 2015)

Taneal1, can you please not quote SteveH when you respond to one of his long-winded, irrelevant and "on the spectrum" posts? Doing so negates the value of his being on my ignore list. Many thanks for your cooperation in this matter. :wink2:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Before assembling the saucer ... I'm expecting to fill in the gridlines with black putty, then do a thick primer hit over the whole thing to fill the pits in the texture of the part. Next, sand the part by attaching it to a lazy susan and rotating. (Maybe attach to Dad's old Shopsmith for speed.) Hopefully I could get an even sanding job out of it that way. 

Finally, I'd spray the main coat. The black gridlines would act like pre-shading.

That's the plan. If it buggers up, I'll buy the smooth part.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

alensatemybuick said:


> Taneal1, can you please not quote SteveH when you respond to one of his long-winded, irrelevant and "on the spectrum" posts? Doing so negates the value of his being on my ignore list. Many thanks for your cooperation in this matter. :wink2:


Ahh... You are a kindred spirit! One of MANY, I imagine.

I shall comply with your request with the greatest of ease. As stated in a previous post, I have no desire to waste my time on him, and that post was my *LAST* post to him. Or in reference to him.

This "ignore list" you mention... I already have him on my figurative "Ignore List", so assuming that a literal ignore feature is available here, my next task is to find it, and use it!

Thanks for the response,









Tom


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

SteveR said:


> Before assembling the saucer ... I'm expecting to fill in the gridlines with black putty, then do a thick primer hit over the whole thing to fill the pits in the texture of the part. Next, sand the part by attaching it to a lazy susan and rotating. (Maybe attach to Dad's old Shopsmith for speed.) Hopefully I could get an even sanding job out of it that way.
> 
> Finally, I'd spray the main coat. The black gridlines would act like pre-shading.
> 
> That's the plan. If it buggers up, I'll buy the smooth part.


Thanks Steve,

That sounds like an interesting plan. Your idea about the powered turntable is my current plan unless I find a better method. I'm not able to begin work on my "E" until mid-September, so whenever you start work I'm definitely interested in seeing your progress.

Having the "smoothie" available as a backup allows a lot of faster options that I wouldn't dare to try for fear of ruining the thing.

Tom


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Be a man. Sand it!


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Anyone know if Round 2 will sell the smooth saucer by itself?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

charonjr said:


> Anyone know if Round 2 will sell the smooth saucer by itself?


Yes.

Enterprise SMOOTH Saucer 1:350 - $29.95 EARLY BIRD PRICE - PREORDER RESERVATION

For some odd reason they haven't properly metatagged this, it doesn't show up when you use their Star Trek search.

ETA: OK, a different search and it does show up under 'all Star Trek' but way way at the bottom.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Oh, Steve H., thank you! That's marvelous!

Edit: Worth it, but gonna have to be ready for that $20 shipping price to the Western U.S. Wow! Guessing it has to do with the size of the package plus distance. East Coast says $10.

So, $50 with shipping for me.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

charonjr said:


> Oh, Steve H., thank you! That's marvelous!
> 
> Edit: Worth it, but gonna have to be ready for that $20 shipping price to the Western U.S. Wow! Guessing it has to do with the size of the package plus distance. East Coast says $10.
> 
> So, $50 with shipping for me.


wha? That's crazy. 

Huh. Can't find the hull parts at Starship modeler, and it's not at either Round 2 or the main Autoworld store.

Huh. Is it a CultTVman exclusive?


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

Steve H said:


> Huh. Is it a CultTVman exclusive?


Nope:
Star Trek TOS USS Enterprise Smooth Science Fiction Plastic Model 1/350 Scale #mka015-06 by AMT (mka015-06)

TowerHobbies.com | AMT 1/350 Star Trek TOS USS Enterprise Smooth Saucer


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

taneal1 said:


> Thanks Again, Jim
> 
> Is the pre-order for your *next* Enterprise build? (I hope)
> 
> Tom


No sir.
I plan to use it on my *one & only* build of her.:nerd:
Not sure what I an going to do with the one I sanded.:crying:
-Jim G.G.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JGG1701 said:


> No sir.
> I plan to use it on my *one & only* build of her.:nerd:
> Not sure what I an going to do with the one I sanded.:crying:
> -Jim G.G.


That's a surprise... Didn't you say you were happy with the results of your sanding? If so, why get the smooth saucer?

Tom


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Yes,
Just not happy with the "gap" it left between saucer and the upper decks.
Not sure if it was warped from casting the part or from sanding.

-Jim G.G.


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## FlyAndFight (Mar 25, 2012)

I pre-ordered the smooth saucer from CultTVman as well and plan on using my original saucer for a custom/bashed TOS Destroyer type ship.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JGG1701 said:


> Yes,
> Just not happy with the "gap" it left between saucer and the upper decks.
> Not sure if it was warped from casting the part or from sanding.
> 
> -Jim G.G.


I see. So you're happy with the overall results of the sanding process, and this 'flaw' may or not have occurred due to sanding. After all that work it seriously sucks to have this problem.

Is it only on the one side?

You must have decided that you wouldn't find the results acceptable or you wouldn't have ordered the "smoothie," but couldn't this gap be successfully filled?

Tom


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## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

I've Pre Ordered a couple of smoothy primary hulls I'll keep all of them for kit bashes or modifications later, I'm working on a Hermes class scout so I already have a secondary hull and a nacelle as spare parts 

I also preordered the parts pack to have some pilot bits available


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

taneal1 said:


> I see. So you're happy with the overall results of the sanding process, and this 'flaw' may or not have occurred due to sanding. After all that work it seriously sucks to have this problem.
> 
> Is it only on the one side?
> 
> ...


Both sides. 

Yes, I could fill it but I'm not sure if will look "filled" after painting.
Hate the idea of going all the way with it and finding out it was _ALL_ for nothing.
-Jim G.G.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JGG1701 said:


> Both sides.


It's hard to believe you created a symmetrical 'dip' or 'low spot' on BOTH sides of the central axis during the sanding process. 



JGG1701 said:


> Yes, I could fill it but I'm not sure if will look "filled" after painting.
> Hate the idea of going all the way with it and finding out it was _ALL_ for nothing.
> -Jim G.G.


That really is a pain in the butt...

Thanks for the info though,

Tom


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

taneal1 said:


> I see. So you're happy with the overall results of the sanding process, and this 'flaw' may or not have occurred due to sanding. After all that work it seriously sucks to have this problem.
> 
> Is it only on the one side?
> 
> ...


Maybe you could try to clamp it while the glue sets?
Or use superglue and hold that closed while a friend lays some accelerator on it?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

KUROK said:


> Maybe you could try to clamp it while the glue sets?
> Or use superglue and hold that closed while a friend lays some accelerator on it?


Looking at the gap, it's not an 'alignment' issue that clamping would solve, it's a 'missing material' issue that only some kind of filler will take care of. 

And I think his issue is that visually, no matter what's done you're going to see a 'wobble' in the line where the two shapes meet.

And even if one can say it's not THAT critical or obvious, clearly it is to Jim.


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## MartyS (Mar 11, 2014)

If using a lathe to remove plastic until the lines were gone created a different curve, I wonder if the grid lines are not the same depth everywhere?

That's the inherent problem with removing material, it's not easy to put it back.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

MartyS said:


> If using a lathe to remove plastic until the lines were gone created a different curve, I wonder if the grid lines are not the same depth everywhere?
> 
> That's the inherent problem with removing material, it's not easy to put it back.


You know, given all the troublesome issues with the factory on this (size of the gridlines, that odd texturing on the surface), it would not shock me to learn those lines are not of a consistent depth. I suspect it would take instruments of incredible subtle caliber to determine that.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I can assure you that the grid lines are of varying depth, which is why you would need to sand the heck out of the hull pieces to fully remove them. I think puttying and sanding is better although it is a lot of work.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

JGG1701,

That gap problem: doesn't the smooth saucer have the same problem with your B/C deck piece? It is not moulded as one piece....


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

charonjr said:


> JGG1701,
> 
> That gap problem: doesn't the smooth saucer have the same problem with your B/C deck piece? It is not moulded as one piece....


I wouldn't think so. Assuming they modified the existing molds to make them smooth, they would have to remove material from those molds in order to eliminate the textured surface and grid lines. If anything, the smooth saucer would be slightly thicker than the textured/gridlined saucer (though the difference would likely be only hundredths to thousandths of an inch).


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Ah, thanks Zombie_61, I have a nasty tendency to think backwards. I didn't think in terms of the negative mould! Thanks for clearing that up for me. 

I am hoping this saucer is released soon! It's my understanding the remastered Excelsior is due at the end of August.

We will see!


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Steve H said:


> Looking at the gap, it's not an 'alignment' issue that clamping would solve, it's a 'missing material' issue that only some kind of filler will take care of.
> 
> And I think his issue is that visually, no matter what's done you're going to see a 'wobble' in the line where the two shapes meet.
> 
> And even if one can say it's not THAT critical or obvious, clearly it is to Jim.


Yes *to me* it is. That is why I do not wish to use it for my build.:|


MartyS said:


> If using a lathe to remove plastic until the lines were gone created a different curve, I wonder if the grid lines are not the same depth everywhere?
> 
> That's the inherent problem with removing material, it's not easy to put it back.


Yep.


Steve H said:


> You know, given all the troublesome issues with the factory on this (size of the gridlines, that odd texturing on the surface), it would not shock me to learn those lines are not of a consistent depth. I suspect it would take instruments of incredible subtle caliber to determine that.


Yeah but who has time for that.:wink2:


RossW said:


> I can assure you that the grid lines are of varying depth, which is why you would need to sand the heck out of the hull pieces to fully remove them. I think puttying and sanding is better although it is a lot of work.


Too late for me.:crying:


charonjr said:


> JGG1701,
> 
> That gap problem: doesn't the smooth saucer have the same problem with your B/C deck piece? It is not moulded as one piece....


Thank you for answering that. Mr. Zombie_61:smile2:
-Jim G.G.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

_I beg your pardon for digressing:_

I was about to make a comment here, but decided to re-read this entire thread first. Following this, I was just about to write the post when I noticed I had a PM. The PM stated that I am a "nerd." 

Although this was CLEARLY intended as the ultimate insult, I don't find the term itself at all offensive. Certainly there was a time when it was used as a insult, but times have changed. The average person finally noticed that "nerds" are the new billionaires, the new scientists, the new engineers, etc.

What "nerd" could feel like a loser, when guys like Bill Gates, and Neil Armstrong PROUDLY declare themselves "nerds."

Having just reread this thread and all of our attempts to achieve perfection, IMO we are all a bunch of nerds here, so I thought I'd mention this on this forum. I CERTAINLY do not intend to insult anyone with that appellation, because I don't find the word itself the least bit offensive.

My response to that PM was that "IF he EVER came out of his bubble he would discover that the word is no longer an insult."

Does anyone agree that the word "nerd" is no longer an insult?

Thanks for any opinions,

Tom


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## Fury3 (Jan 18, 2003)

I just had to.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Yup, I am a "Nacently Elitist Reductible Deductionist". Never NERD a bad word. Far superior in every way, we nerds!


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

charonjr said:


> Yup, I am a "Nacently Elitist Reductible Deductionist". Never NERD a bad word. Far superior in every way, we nerds!


Suck on that you nerd-haters! Well said, indeed...

Tom


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Thank you, Tom!

Side note: I responded to the Super 7 thread. It is not meant to insult anyone, including you. I just wanted to relate my personal experience. I read your entries, as you requested. I am afraid that I cannot judge. Between cancer, moving, and the other issues in my life, I have too much on my plate. And I tend to see the good in everyone. I'm a Pisces, go figure! LOL!


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

One needs to balance appearance with reality. 

Yes, we seem to be in the age of the nerd. No question geeky stuff is all the rage right now. 'Cosplay' seems to have actually entered the 'common knowledge' lexicon which, for a 30-some year vet of anime fandom, completely blows my mind. 

But let us not forget, never forget, the world is eternally high school. The Jocks and the Cheerleaders still rule. It's far more acceptable to paint your face in bright primary colors and wear a team jersey than it is anything...well, fannish. It wouldn't have to be a Star Fleet uniform, but something as innocent as a tie bearing the Enterprise Arrowhead would get the arched eyebrow (and attendant snicker behind the back) at any major firm or company. Nerd is still a put-down even as Marvel Studios rakes in billions.

That's just reality. It's not a horrible thing. It's just a thing. Don't mean nothing unless you make it something.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

LOL! I have a space shuttle tie clasp from 30 odd years ago, when I used to work Litton Italia. And, as a nerd and fan, I do go around sporting a commbadge on my shirt or jacket from time to time. Usually, when I am up all night and go to grab a soda. Turns out that Circle K and QT employees are quite a nerdy lot!


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

charonjr said:


> LOL! I have a space shuttle tie clasp from 30 odd years ago, when I used to work Litton Italia. And, as a nerd and fan, I do go around sporting a commbadge on my shirt or jacket from time to time. Usually, when I am up all night and go to grab a soda. Turns out that Circle K and QT employees are quite a nerdy lot!


Sure. Retail drones (which I was one) tend to be of a nerdish persuasion. It's very common. 

But I suspect you wouldn't have that commbadge on your suitcoat if a senior VP from Litton was taking a tour, right? Not out of any sense of shame, just for, hm, call it 'protective coloration'. There's a time and place for everything.


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

So, are they just putting out the smooth saucer parts or will there be a special 50th anniversary smooth version full model?


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## gene1138 (Aug 25, 2011)

There will be the 50th anniversary kit that is the full 1/350 model with the saucer now being the smooth version and updated painting guide based on what was found during the Smithsonian restoration.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Steve Mavronis said:


> So, are they just putting out the smooth saucer parts or will there be a special 50th anniversary smooth version full model?


Smooth saucer for those that already have the kit but haven't started yet, complete re-pressing of the 1/350 Enterprise with the new smooth saucer for those that haven't bought the kit yet for one reason or another. 

It's good there are options. Options are useful. 

It's an obvious guess that the re-pressing w/smoothie saucer parts should include a new color guide per the restoration. I haven't read if they intend to include that new guide with the saucer parts on their own but it would be a good additional selling point. 

No word if there are any plans (or desire) to make 'pencil line' grid decals. If R2 doesn't do that I might suggest that's a terrific aftermarket decal opportunity.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Steve H said:


> Sure. Retail drones (which I was one) tend to be of a nerdish persuasion. It's very common.
> 
> But I suspect you wouldn't have that commbadge on your suitcoat if a senior VP from Litton was taking a tour, right? Not out of any sense of shame, just for, hm, call it 'protective coloration'. There's a time and place for everything.


Yes, you are correct, Steve! White shirt, tie, slacks and shuttle clasp. Commbadge wouldn't have been allowed. 

Although, I did lend an old TOS shirt emblem to a friend in the Air Force for a minute. He tossed it up on his epaulette and went into his C.O.s office. There was a loud laugh from the both of them! They must have known each other well!:grin2:


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

charonjr said:


> Thank you, Tom!
> 
> Side note: I responded to the Super 7 thread. It is not meant to insult anyone, including you. I just wanted to relate my personal experience. I read your entries, as you requested. I am afraid that I cannot judge. Between cancer, moving, and the other issues in my life, I have too much on my plate. And I tend to see the good in everyone. I'm a Pisces, go figure! LOL!


Thanks for the response and for reading.

No hard feelings to you in any way. I wanted people to see who they are dealing with. They can make their own decision based on the facts just as you did.

Note that not a single person disagreed with my statement that *he* completely turned around my original post, and added comments that he knows are not true. And not a single person has disagreed with my analysis of WHY he did this.

I'm not about to let any of this spoil my day...

Take Care, and good luck with the stuff that I'm sure is more than a plate full.

Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I've always found it good to remember that silence is not the same as agreement or assent.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

What was that old saw about "assume"? It makes an "ass out of u and me"? Something, like that. 

Voyage Fan and I also discussed things. I decided that I have no right silencing his voice. So, I took him off my "ignore list". I would be a hypocrite to silence him in my life, yet expect others to hear me out. 

I do hope everyone can make their peace amicably with each other. I don't have a magic wand to act as a big stick!


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Deleted


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Steve H said:


> I've always found it good to remember that silence is not the same as agreement or assent.


You may want to remember it's not an argument, either.


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## JediDad (Dec 5, 2009)

taneal1 said:


> For those of us who already have the 1/350th PL Enterprise kit, what does everyone plan to do considering the impending release of the "smooth" saucer?
> 
> Although I'm not eager to do the sanding/filling/etc. as depicted on all the build threads, I'm not eager to have an unuseable saucer lurking about, either... OTOH, the price is lower than I expected, so it's QUITE tempting to just spend the $, and toss the thing.
> 
> ...


I never started my kit because I was waiting for the light kit re-release (mine just arrived today), so I am definitely going for the smooth saucers. I am so happy that PL did this. I was dreading filling in all those lines. I could have handled it, but I didn't want to have to do it.

I will however be drawing those lines lightly with pencil, on the top only I think. I really liked the look on the MR 1701 that I had.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JediDad said:


> I never started my kit because I was waiting for the light kit re-release (mine just arrived today)


Hello JediDad,

I'm just about to order a light kit myself. If you don't mind my asking, where did you purchase it?

Thanks!

Tom


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*OUCH!!!*
TowerHobbies.com | AMT 1/350 Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit

Classic Enterprise Light Kit 1:350 from Polar Lights/Round 2

Star Trek USS Enterprise NCC 1701 1 350 Scale Light Kit 18TAM21 | eBay

Polar Lights MKA007 1:350 Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit

New AMT Plastic Model Kit Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit 1 350 Scale MKA007 | eBay

AMT MKA007 1 350 Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0090TOVY8/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

AMT MKA007 1 350 Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit | eBay

All I can say is HOLY MOLY! 
Better get em while they're HOT!
-Jim G.G.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

JGG1701 said:


> *OUCH!!!*
> 
> (snip)
> 
> ...


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Holy crud. Between $150-200 USD for the set (depending on seller)?! Is that in keeping with what it cost when first released? 

Owtch.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

SteveR said:


>


You don't think this anything to do with the "share holders" do you?>
-Jim G.G.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

JGG1701 said:


> You don't think this anything to do with the "share holders" do you?>
> -Jim G.G.


Assuming these prices are for current stock and not 'out of print rare collectable' nonsense pricing, I would guess that the Chinese 'turnkey' factories have once again increased their prices, in addition to Dollar fluctuations and oil price craziness.


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## Nektu (Aug 15, 2001)

I think those prices are pretty close to where they were originally. Did they make any modifications, or fixes to the light set? Or is it exactly the same?


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## JediDad (Dec 5, 2009)

taneal1 said:


> Hello JediDad,
> 
> I'm just about to order a light kit myself. If you don't mind my asking, where did you purchase it?
> 
> ...


I got mine from Ebay, the seller was Mark Twain Hobby Center. Right after I received mine I saw that someone had it $10 cheaper haha. Search for Polar Lights 1:350 USS Enterprise Light Kit MKA007 PLLMKA007.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

JediDad said:


> I got mine from Ebay, the seller was Mark Twain Hobby Center. Right after I received mine I saw that someone had it $10 cheaper haha. Search for Polar Lights 1:350 USS Enterprise Light Kit MKA007 PLLMKA007.


Ain't it always the way!!!

Thanks for the info. I'll be purchasing mine today...

Tom


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Taaaaaaaa Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit Science Fiction Plastic Model Kit 1/350 Scale #mka7 by Polar-Lights (mka7)

-Jim G.G.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Cheapest I have seen so far......
Star Trek USS Enterprise Light Kit Science Fiction Plastic Model Kit 1/350 Scale #mka7 by Polar-Lights (mka7)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polar-Lights-1-350-USS-Enterprise-Light-Kit-MKA007-PLLMKA007-/192042057269?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-MKA007-...85ad57&pid=100011&rk=4&rkt=12&sd=192035571470
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLAR-LIGHT...726f6d&pid=100011&rk=8&rkt=12&sd=201677918751

http://fastbuysports.com/us/item/Po...prise_Light_Kit_MKA007_PLLMKA007.201677918751

-Jim G.G.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Also.............................................. ..........:*

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/43-model-swap-sell/546185-saucers-trade.html
-Jim G.G.


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## Skyking918 (May 7, 2007)

I plan to get a "smoothie" and then scribe gridlines, but much finer than those in the original kit release.


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