# Need advice on Craftsman leaf blower repair



## leroym (Oct 17, 2013)

Model #358794941 200 MPH leaf blower.
I need to replace fuel filter and fuel lines. My question is how to replace the fuel lines(s)? I ordered the parts but I could not find anything online about how to actually replace the line or maybe there's 2 lines in the kit?
Thanks for any help,


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

First draw yourself a diagram of where the lines go. Now there is the right way to do this and my way. the right way is to separate the case remove the fuel tank, feed the lines through the tank and housing. My way, cut a 1inch hole in the case directly above where the fuel lines come out of the tank, remove the old lines, cut the end of the new fuel line line at a thin angle, now the next step can be done using a thin stiff wire(like a large paperclip) or fishing line. Wire method, bend the wire until it feeds towards the fuel cap, slide the fuel line over the wire and up to the tank hole, work it around until the tip if the fuel line is through the hole, grasp it with some needle nose pliers and pull it through. Fishing line method, feed a bunch of line through the hole in the tank, fish the line out of the tank, tie the line on the tip of the fuel line, you might have to cut a notch in the tip for so the line won't slip off, pull the line out of the tank with the fuel line attached until you can grasp the end of the fuel line with the pliers and pull it through. The fuel filter goes on the small line, leave enough fuel line so fuel can be picked up from any angle, the big return line only need to be in the tank about 1inch. Have a good one. Geo


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## Subby (Nov 18, 2013)

leroym said:


> Model #358794941 200 MPH leaf blower.
> I need to replace fuel filter and fuel lines. My question is how to replace the fuel lines(s)? I ordered the parts but I could not find anything online about how to actually replace the line or maybe there's 2 lines in the kit?
> Thanks for any help,


First of all, note the type of carb you have, whether it's a two-way (with primer bulb) or a single line (uses a choke). The easiest way for me to tell you how to understand how to route lines on a two-way is like this:

If the primer bulb is actually ON the carburetor, then the OUT nipple will be the one closest to the bulb itself. On most all Walbro and Zama carbs, there will be 4 screws holding one end together (this is the diaphragm that actuates the rocker arm that lifts the needle up and down). This is also the side that the OUT line will be located on in most cases. Now, on the other side of the carb, there is just ONE screw that holds down a plate. This plate is the INTAKE side of the carb. After removing the plate, you will notice a screen that sits inside the recess that accepts fuel. This is the INTAKE portion of the carb. Once you have determined this, the we can move on to a remote primer bulb. This is a primer bulb that is mounted somewhere on the machine, but not on the carb itself. Its job is to pressurize the gas tank. Ergo, the only fuel line that comes from the OUT part of the carb goes to this remote bulb, on the bulb's INTAKE side. The OUT nipple on the remote bulb goes into the tank about an inch, but has no filter on it. It is for building tank pressure only. The other line in the tank that has the filter on it, will go directly into the INTAKE nipple of the carb. It never goes into the primer bulb, ever. I hope this helps.

Getting the line in and out of the tank: Sometimes a hooked gem clip will do the trick. As for me, my best way has always been to cut the line at a long steep angle so that about 1/4" will slip through. If you can manage that much, then grab the tapered tip with long forceps and pull the line on through. Spray the line with WD40 to keep it wet and lubed so it will slip through the gas tank hole easier.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Subby, great detailed explanation.:thumbsup:

geogrubb, you never cease to amaze me.:thumbsup:

Me, one picture to illustrate the routing.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

usmcgrunt said:


> Subby, great detailed explanation.:thumbsup:


It's a pretty good explanation with one exception. The purpose of the external primer bulb is the same as the carburetor mounted bulb. It's there to simply act as a purge to provide fuel to the carburetor and minimize the number of pulls to start. It's purpose is not to pressurize the fuel tank!

The external mounted units will operate without the fuel tank cap installed and still circulate fuel through the carburetor. They draw fuel from the tank, through the carburetor and push it back into the tank, that is why there is no filter on the outlet side.

Technically these setups are purge and not primer as they do not supply fuel to the engine and you can operate them without flooding the engine. They do however "prime" a dry carburetor with fuel and purge the air, so I guess from that stand point they could be considered a primer.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

*Craftsman 25cc Sim Pull leaf Blower*

As I mentioned in my introduction, I'm working on a Craftsman model 358794701. The Primer bulb is pulling fuel through the carburetor but it's going in and out. I don't think it's spraying fuel into the barrel. While cleaning the ports and holes in the body, I must have done something because it's not pulling any fuel.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Sir Thomas said:


> As I mentioned in my introduction, I'm working on a Craftsman model 358794701. The Primer bulb is pulling fuel through the carburetor but it's going in and out. I don't think it's spraying fuel into the barrel. While cleaning the ports and holes in the body, I must have done something because it's not pulling any fuel.


It is not supposed to spray fuel into the carb, the primer is actually a purge pump, it remove the air from the carb and makes fuel available to the carb. Have a good one. Geo


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Hello and welcome to Hobby Talk, Sir Thomas.
Have you performed a compression test on the blower? Anything less than 90 to 100 psi will make it very difficult to start and run correctly, if not impossible.
These engines have a history of the cylinder to crankcase mounting screws (2) vibrating loose causing a loss of the compression/ vacuum needed for operation. Another possibility for hard starting, remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder wall for scoring or the piston ring stuck in it's land because of carbon build up.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

geogrubb said:


> It is not supposed to spray fuel into the carb, the primer is actually a purge pump, it remove the air from the carb and makes fuel available to the carb. Have a good one. Geo


I understand that. I guess it's the way I worded my statement. After you purge the carburetor and you set the choke and pull the crank, fuel is fed into the carburetor, correct? 
Like I said I'm new with 2 cycle engine but I understand the principle behind the 2 stroke process. What I don't understand is what keeps the flow of fuel going into the carburetor and into the barrel so it will enter the cylinder.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Sir Thomas said:


> What I don't understand is what keeps the flow of fuel going into the carburetor and into the barrel so it will enter the cylinder.


The crankcase pulses of pressure\vacuum make the fuel pump (top of carb) draw and inject fuel into the engine. That is why good compression and vacuum is essential to good operation.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> Hello and welcome to Hobby Talk, Sir Thomas.
> Have you performed a compression test on the blower? Anything less than 90 to 100 psi will make it very difficult to start and run correctly, if not impossible.
> These engines have a history of the cylinder to crankcase mounting screws (2) vibrating loose causing a loss of the compression/ vacuum needed for operation. Another possibility for hard starting, remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder wall for scoring or the piston ring stuck in it's land because of carbon build up.


I actually pulled the cylinder off to check for that. A compression gauge is the next thing on my list. There's only one way the flywheel fits on the shaft and locks so timing is not an issue. I did notice but didn't pay attention to the hole that goes from the cylinder thru the carburetor mount into the carburetor. I'm assuming this is what causes the vacuum that draws the fuel into the carburetor. Maybe I should check and make sure that's clear.

The cylinder it bolted tight to the crank case and the gasket is there and unbroken. Should the ring move freely in it's land?


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Sir Thomas said:


> Should the ring move freely in it's land?


"When pushing on the ring with a tooth brush handle or anything that will not scratch the ring, it should have in and out movement". The ring will not move around the piston because of a locater pin in the pistons land. It appears that the piston has no scoring and would be evident on the exhaust side of the piston where carbon normally builds up. I have had good success using Seafoam to remove carbon from the ring area.

I believe you blower is actually made by Poulan and looks just like their BVM200 model. 

The carb diaphragms may be stiff from age and ethanol fuel, hindering correct fuel passage through the carb and preventing starting\running. Here are some links to help diagnose\repair the blower. A compression test will determine if you should continue and purchase a repair kit for the carb rebuild. Be aware that these blowers are more or less considered throw away units because of parts cost versus buying a new machine. Hope this helps.


Service info-
http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/TechGuide_2007.pdf
Carb kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GND-77-Zama...sket-Kit-for-Poulan-VS-2-Blower-/170751608041
Piston ring-
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Piston-Ring/545154009/2432128


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> "When pushing on the ring with a tooth brush handle or anything that will not scratch the ring, it should have in and out movement". The ring will not move around the piston because of a locater pin in the pistons land. It appears that the piston has no scoring and would be evident on the exhaust side of the piston where carbon normally builds up. I have had good success using Seafoam to remove carbon from the ring area.
> 
> I believe you blower is actually made by Poulan and looks just like their BVM200 model.
> 
> ...


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Well, unfortunately, I believe you will have to find another primer body OR a new carb. You said initially that the primer would not pull fuel from the tank. Did you check the fuel line IN the tank to see if the line is broken and the filter is detached? The lines become brittle and DO crack after only a few years of use\storage. Bad diaphragms in the carb would affect the running more than the purging of air from the carb.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> Well, unfortunately, I believe you will have to find another primer body OR a new carb. You said initially that the primer would not pull fuel from the tank. Did you check the fuel line IN the tank to see if the line is broken and the filter is detached? The lines become brittle and DO crack after only a few years of usestorage. Bad diaphragms in the carb would affect the running more than the purging of air from the carb.


Where can you find a primer body?

I'm gong to start picking up junked 2 cycle motors for parts. I have already ordered a carburetor rebuild kit for the Zama. I need to pick up a compression gauge. With the carburetor and carburetor mount off the cylinder, I put my finger over the pulse hole I don't feel much if any positive pressure when I pull the starter. Should you feel a lot? 

If it doesn't fire up after replacing all the diaphragms where else should I look. I'm getting plenty of spark.

I've rebuilt several jet pumps for 4 cycle engines successfully. This 2 cycle world is new territory for me.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

The very first step on repairing two cycle motors is checking compression. Because of the extreme rpm's and the variable of having the "correct" gas\oil ratio mixed by the owner, scoring of the cylinder is a high possibility and needs to be addressed "BEFORE" anything else. I checked the Zama parts list and see that they have no part number listed for just the primer base. I will keep looking and let you know if I find the part separately. A new or used carb may be the only alternative.(Sorry)

OUCH------
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ZAMA-C1...012?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c380b9b34


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> The very first step on repairing two cycle motors is checking compression. Because of the extreme rpm's and the variable of having the "correct" gasoil ratio mixed by the owner, scoring of the cylinder is a high possibility and needs to be addressed "BEFORE" anything else. I checked the Zama parts list and see that they have no part number listed for just the primer base. I will keep looking and let you know if I find the part separately. A new or used carb may be the only alternative.(Sorry)
> 
> OUCH------
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ZAMA-C1...012?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c380b9b34


Compression is definitely an issue. It's only pulling 40-45 psi. I tried the same gauge on my weedeater and it's showing over 70-75 psi. There is no scoring nor is the ring broken. I'll check the seal. Could the ring be frozen into the land to tightly?


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Sir Thomas said:


> Could the ring be frozen into the land to tightly?


Yes. As I stated earlier, push on the ring with something that will not scratch it and see if the ring springs back after depressing it. Seafoam has helped me remove carbon from rings in the past. Be aware that the ring is a casting and lifting up on an edge could lead to breaking the ring. I have gotten lucky (very few times) lifting the ring a little at a time all the way around to unstick it. As you have just learned, a compression test has to be the first diagnostic test performed on a two cycle before proceeding further. Squirt a little oil in the cylinder and see if the compression comes up. If it increases, more than likely the ring is stuck, since you said the cylinder is not scored. The seal on the bottom of the cylinder would affect the vacuum the engine needs to run, but NOT the compression.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> Yes. As I stated earlier, push on the ring with something that will not scratch it and see if the ring springs back after depressing it. Seafoam has helped me remove carbon from rings in the past. Be aware that the ring is a casting and lifting up on an edge could lead to breaking the ring. I have gotten lucky (very few times) lifting the ring a little at a time all the way around to unstick it. As you have just learned, a compression test has to be the first diagnostic test performed on a two cycle before proceeding further. Squirt a little oil in the cylinder and see if the compression comes up. If it increases, more than likely the ring is stuck, since you said the cylinder is not scored. The seal on the bottom of the cylinder would affect the vacuum the engine needs to run, but NOT the compression.


I haven't bought the Seafoam cleaner yet. Wanted to show close-up of rings to see if it's worth saving. There is definitely no spring to it. Either it is froze into the land or the ring is worn perhaps not having enough oil in the fuel mix.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

The piston ring is definitely stuck in the land. There was an excessive build up of carbon on your original pictures showing the cylinder removal. If you have a local parts source,(approx. $3 or $10 shipped from a vendor) you could remove the ring by lifting one tip and break it a piece at a time until it is removed. Then you would use parts of the broken ring as a scraper to remove the carbon build up in the land before installing a new ring. I'm not sure how cost effective this would be, because you still need to find the primer base ($?) and carb kit ($8), or another carb ($30). It adds up to around $40 for parts or $80 to $100 for a new blower.

Another thought, if the cylinder has any deep scoring, the ring will not seat and a new cylinder is around $25.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> The piston ring is definitely stuck in the land. There was an excessive build up of carbon on your original pictures showing the cylinder removal. If you have a local parts source,(approx. $3 or $10 shipped from a vendor) you could remove the ring by lifting one tip and break it a piece at a time until it is removed. Then you would use parts of the broken ring as a scraper to remove the carbon build up in the land before installing a new ring. I'm not sure how cost effective this would be, because you still need to find the primer base ($?) and carb kit ($8), or another carb ($30). It adds up to around $40 for parts or $80 to $100 for a new blower.
> 
> Another thought, if the cylinder has any deep scoring, the ring will not seat and a new cylinder is around $25.


I got some seafoam cleaner. Letting it soak. If it will loosen up the ring, then I'll go from there. The owner said the last person said it would be too expensive to fix but I'm not sure if he said why. If he got low compression he probably assumed the ring is broken or scored. I've already ordered a rebuild kit. It's my understanding that it will start up without the primer, just harder. If it starts up, I'll keep and eye out for throw aways that might have a good carburetor.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Sir Thomas said:


> The owner said the last person said it would be too expensive to fix but I'm not sure if he said why.


Kudos to you if your using this as a learning experience (we all have to start somewhere). But as I stated, economically, this brand of blower is not worth a large investment of money or time if you were a professional repair shop. Keep us posted as to how the repair progresses, we ALL learn from each other. Good luck.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> Kudos to you if your using this as a learning experience (we all have to start somewhere). But as I stated, economically, this brand of blower is not worth a large investment of money or time if you were a professional repair shop. Keep us posted as to how the repair progresses, we ALL learn from each other. Good luck.


It is an expensive learning experience but I'd have to pay to go school and I never was good in classroom situations. I'm retired, I like to tinker and want to do this to help friends and make a little money on the side.

Still can't get compression. I'll pull the ignition module or coil in case I need it on another job. I'll find out what the owner (Bro. Bob) wants to do.


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## Lawnmowertech (Nov 12, 2008)

let me know if i can help in any way


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Lawnmowertech said:


> let me know if i can help in any way


I talked to Bob, the owner, and he said that they had one belonging to the church. Someone used it and put regular gas in and it messed it up. He also said he left his at the church to use and we are assuming that the same thing happened. 

I'm going on the basis that running a 2 cycle engine with little or no oil gives the cylinder no lubrication and wore the ring down. There is no score or crack in the ring or walls of the cylinder. If I can find a ring I might can salvage it but there is no use in putting money into this blower. I messed up the carburetor cleaning it damaging the check valves in the primer body.

Bob says to keep it for parts if I find another one.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Lawnmowertech said:


> let me know if i can help in any way


Quick question. I've worked on piston rings in cars and 4 cycle engine. Usually the rings are expanded and you have to compress them to get the pistons into the cylinder. Looking a pictures of the rings on ebay, the tips are not touching. You see on the attached shot, the ring tips are tight up to the pins. What does that tell me?

post note: I have successfully remove ring and am now cleaning the seat and the ring. Hopefully the ring is still usable.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

Got the compression (almost 90 psi) fixed and a new ignition coil (I ordered before I realized it wasn't the problem) now I discovered the key is sheared in the flywheel. Not going to make any money on this one but I am using it as a learning experience.

Unless I can find another flywheel this unit is junk since the key is built in. Never had that on a 4 cycle motor.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Sir Thomas said:


> Got the compression (almost 90 psi) fixed and a new ignition coil (I ordered before I realized it wasn't the problem) now I discovered the key is sheared in the flywheel. Not going to make any money on this one but I am using it as a learning experience.
> 
> Unless I can find another flywheel this unit is junk since the key is built in. Never had that on a 4 cycle motor.


How did you lock the engine when you removed the flywheel? If you held the flywheel while loosening the nut that may have been when the key sheared. You can put red locktite on key area when reassembling to hold it in place. Have a good one. Geo


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

geogrubb said:


> How did you lock the engine when you removed the flywheel? If you held the flywheel while loosening the nut that may have been when the key sheared. You can put red locktite on key area when reassembling to hold it in place. Have a good one. Geo


Not sure. You don't lock the flywheel first. The flywheel goes on the shaft with the built in key sliding onto the slot. Then a steel sleeve goes on which is about 2" long then the part of the blower with the pull start goes on with a bearing. The Blower assembly goes over that THEN it's locked down. The shaft is not threaded except for the area that the blower assembly goes on. I probably neglected to make sure the flywheel was seated correctly before assembling everything else. It tends to move on you while placing everything else on it.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1503120?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=358794701


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

I put locktights in an made sure the flywheel and shaft stayed aligned by turning the slot for the key towards the magneto then slide the flywheel down on it letting the magnet hold it in place as I put the housing and blower wheel on then locked it down. After assembling I had to prime by pushing the bulb in then clamping down on the outlet line to the tank with a pin nose pliers and releasing the bulb to create suction. Repeated this 3 times then cranked it. It fired right up and ran. I don't know how long the locktight will hold it but I now know that the rest of it works. All I need its a junked Polan or Craftman with the same flywheel and primer housing and I'll have the thing like new.:thumbsup:


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Good job Sir Thomas.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
This has certainly been an excellent learning process. Now you know that compression is the FIRST thing to check when working on any 2-cycle motor and carb cleaning is a delicate and methodical process. I congratulate you on your perseverance.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

usmcgrunt said:


> Good job Sir Thomas.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
> This has certainly been an excellent learning process. Now you know that compression is the FIRST thing to check when working on any 2-cycle motor and carb cleaning is a delicate and methodical process. I congratulate you on your perseverance.


Like I said, I'm used to working on Automotive Engines and four cycle lawnmoer engines and outboard motors. Whole different ball of wax.

I'm assuming that most 2 cycle engines use either Zama or Walbro Carbs so if I find an junked blower, weed eater or chain saw, I have a good chance as finding a Primer Body I need correct?


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Most small displacement 2-cycle motors do have Zama or Walbro cube carbs. The problem will be finding a Zama with four mounting holes for the primer base. The two screw mounting seems to be the most common configuration. Good luck, don't give up.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

*Back to Primer Body*

I had set the Craftman Blower aside to work on 3 junked, yes junked, Trimmers, One is definitely junked, so full of crude that it was locked up. I may play with it later, clean it up for parts. of the other two I did get one running. It had a plastic primer body which needed replacing, new lines and filter. It runs fine now. The Ryobi is the one that needs a rebuild kit which I have on order.
Now I'm back to the Blower. The carb is a Zama C1U W43. I just wanted to verify that there are supposed to be two check valves inside the body, one that permits the bulb to suck the fuel through the carb body but prevent fuel from pushing back into the carb body when I press the bulb which flushes the fuel back into the tank. If I hold it up to the light I can see the light shining through that port.

I had ordered a new flywheel and carb for the blower. It's on the way here but snow has shut everything down here in Charlotte today.
Of the three Junked trimmers, I have one running like a top. I bid on a carb I thought I could use on the Ryobi but it turns out the Ryobi needs the throttle plate on the side and the carb I won the bid on is on the side and it doesn't have a built in choke plate. Tried it to see if the Ryobi will run. I have to put my thumb over the intake to start. It runs. Still keeping my eyes out for the correct replacement.
Got two more junked trimmers (Weedeater and Bolen) and two junked blowers (Weedeater and Homelite). Got the carb on the Weedeater Trimmer (which is really a Polan) working. The engine has 150 psi compression. Have to check the spark and clean it up. I thought the motor was locked but it was really the cable in the shaft.


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## aldrichanderson (Feb 11, 2014)

Hi Sir Thomas ,
I liked your idea of working with the automotive engines and way you explained the work done by you.


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