# CNC custom HO track



## slotmichl (Sep 20, 2004)

I intend to let myself route a HO track. When I was designing the layout, I came over the idea, that the lanes need not always run next to each other. So there is the chance, that the lanes can be done in equal lengths. In the picture is a layout on a 4 x 8 sheet of MDF, with each lane having close to 33'.
I am not sure if this is making sense, so what do you think??

Michael


----------



## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

My first thought is that it'd be neat for scenery and and just playing on, but probably not so great for hosting races on. It looks like a lot of work that may be somewhat unnecessary unless you're really into scenic layouts. I'm not a carpenter, but I'd guess you'd need two or more templates. Also bear in mind that unless you modify all your cars by soldering braid to all your pickup shoes and lay down copper tape, you're going to need to rout very precise slots for all the rails too. Thats a boatload of work.

I'm not saying I don't like it. It looks neat. And if you look at the 1:32 guys, many of them are doing some pretty funky stuff with lane spacing. But I've never bought into the notion that all lane lengths must be equal for racing on. If you're doing organized racing, rotate the lanes thru heats and lane length becomes a non issue. Besides, every track has gutter lanes whether the lengths are the same or not.

Just some food for thought. Looks like a great scenic layout.


----------



## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

From the title it sounds like he is planning on doing this wirh a computer driven Numerical Control router. If this is true, once it is programmed the machine will do all the work.


----------



## slotmichl (Sep 20, 2004)

Shadow,
I don't get it why you mention the scenery?!? Of course you were right, when racing and switching lanes the equal lane length is not necessary. What I liked about the layout were the different layouts for the lanes, so that not only the length is equal, but also the difficulty to some extend.

micyou3,
you were right, the computer would have to do all the work. At the moment there were two different ideas for the rails: Either magnetic stuff underneath the surface, and copper tape on top for the current, or "rebar wire" as rails. Need to test that, before getting the track routed.

Michael


----------



## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I think it would be neat if the straights weren't exactly straight and there was almost always variances in the distance between the lanes. It would be more like the way real cars drive around the track.


----------



## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

-----


----------



## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Just a question, although the lanes are equal in distance, any consideration regarding the drivability factor of each lane? Assuming equal distance per lane, lane rotation could be an option and wouldn't be necessary for racing. That being the case, looking at the track, one set of lanes seems to be relatively straight compared to the other, wouldn't that provide a slight advantage to the racers using those? Anyway, still a great observation about different lane layout. :thumbsup: rr


----------



## EBasil (Jan 11, 2000)

I like the idea and I like the proposed layout. I'd still want to have lane rotations, but the character of the lanes looks like they'd be really fun driving. And, there's room in there for a Goodyear or Dunlop tire bridge... :thumbsup:


----------



## rodstrguy (Feb 14, 2002)

Actually, routing out the power rail lines is not hard, as soon as my brother gets me some pics of the track he did I can show anyone how to do it, build the jig and route out the lanes...


----------



## Mike(^RacerX^) (Mar 15, 2003)

Boy,I wish I had a CNC machine at my disposal.

Pretty cool idea.Definetly different,and I am a big fan of different ideas.

How long would it take to have the machine do this???? And what kind of prices would one expect to pay for a CNC routed track???

Mike


----------



## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

slotmichl said:


> Shadow,
> I don't get it why you mention the scenery?!? Of course you were right, when racing and switching lanes the equal lane length is not necessary. What I liked about the layout were the different layouts for the lanes, so that not only the length is equal, but also the difficulty to some extend.


Hey man, maybe you misread me. I LIKE it. :hat: 

Sorry, I just have the annoying habit of trying to play Devil's Advocate sometimes. I assumed maybe you were wanting thoughts whether to do it or not. Having a computer to run something like that off would be awesome (Didn't know what CNC meant)

I mentioned scenery because your layout would lend itself nicely to it, and assumed that was your reasoning for splitting up the lanes like that. Looks like a fairly fast track.

Cheers
Trev


----------



## slotmichl (Sep 20, 2004)

*Thanks guys!*

Mike,
I have an offer for this track to be routed (and just routed, without any rails) in MDF for about 380$. Complete, one piece.
Just before you ask, this is in Germany, so shipping would be the factor for you. Then there is a guy in the States, Philip la Quatra, offering custom routed tracks.

Shadow,
seems you misread me! I did not imply any offence in my question, even if I now think it could be meant for that! It was just the question why you were coming up with the scenery idea, since I did not see the idea behind it......
Now its clear of course :wave: 

Its always a problem reading and posting in a foreign language. I always try to stay away from funny or sarcastic or whatsoever threads, since this is quite too thin ice for me, being misinterpreted and causing trouble!  

Michael


----------



## mking (Apr 25, 2000)

*Magnetic braid*

Hi

In addition to copper tape or metal power rails, you have a third option: magnetic braid. Several people offering custom routed tracks here in the US use magnetic braid, and it works very well. Power rails can wear a groove in your pickup shoes, and magnetic braid will never do this. It offers a really good contact for both pickup shoes and pickup braids.


----------



## slotmichl (Sep 20, 2004)

*Magnetic braid....*

.... is surely an option. But I have not found a supplier yet, who could provide me with a roll or two to do some testing! Do you have any idea where to get this?

Michael


----------



## mking (Apr 25, 2000)

*found this on braid*

Magnetic Downforce for Hand-Made Tracks
I am routing an HO track for myself and am looking for a source for the flat wire to use as power rails, I am also routing a 1/32 track and am looking for a source of wire braid that has some magnetic properties. Do you have, or can you name a source for these wires?
Thomas A. Goldsworthy
Wizzard (148 Deer Oak Lane, Bedford, PA, 15522, http://wizzardho.com) and BSRT (20807 Northeast 8th St., Redmond, WA, 98053, http://scaleauto.com) offer the "flat wire" similar to that in Tomy A/FX track. 
Three sizes of magnetic braid, including a 1/8-inch size that would match the appearance of the pickup strips on plastic track (but not their magnetic attraction) are available from Magnatec SRP, 7702 Briaridge, San Antonio, TX, 78230, 210-308-6909, [email protected] 


i have a 4x8 track routed on a single piece of medium density fiberboard (MDF) with magnetic braid. im very happy with it. 

mike


----------



## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

*Magnetic downforce for routed tracks*

On http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/ under 'Wooden Track' is some information about a group of guys that used inexpensive square rebar wire on their track... Can't beat the price!

-- Bill


----------



## slotmichl (Sep 20, 2004)

@Mike,
thanks for the adress, I will surely contact them and try this also. Hopefully I will find a way of getting a roll or a sample over here.

@Bill,
I recalled to have read this also, thanks for the link. I surely would have had to search hard to find it again. Now the question to this: What is rebar wire?!?  

When I read this article first, I had to search the web for additional information. All links to rebar led me to some concrete reinforcing steel, and so I thought it to be the wire to drill these steel pieces together. Got a roll of that, but it is too thin, not even square......

Michael


----------



## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

*Rebar Tie Wire*

Michael --

The wire -- 'rebar tie wire' -- is (I believe) wire to tie steel reinforcing bars together before the concrete is poured over it. Here's a link to a vendor that sells the square wire. I know nothing about them - they were just the first one returned in the Google search. It is something that you should be able to find locally...

http://lawn-and-garden.aubuchonhard...able_and_wire_rope/re-bar_tie_wire-715578.asp

-- Bill


----------



## RickP (May 15, 2002)

*Rebar tie wire*

Rebar tie wire is not flat wire. It is round and about 16 guage. I am currently experimenting with a 2' x 4' MDF routed track. I want to make one lane using this tie wire and the other using copper tape. I am not sure which to use on a bigger layout, so I want to do some testing. 

I've often heard that the copper tape is not good because it needs to be raised from the surface slightly to work well with standard HO pick up shoes. It's been recommended that you solder braided wire to the pick up shoes for better contact. I have about 100 cars and I don't want to have to modify each one just to run on this track. I still use my MM track.

Currently, I have both slots routed using a carbide 1/16" router bit. I used two passes to get to full depth (I didn't want to break the bit as it was about $18.) I have purchased a roll of tie wire from Home Depot, but it seems too small. The 1/16" slot is .062". The wire (16 gauge) is suppose to be .0507" according to the AWG charts. The wire needs to be large enough to have to force it into the power slots. This wire goes in too easily and will probably not stay in when using magnet cars. I have check many hardware type stores and have only found this one type (made in China). Its cheap; about $3 a roll, but its not going to work. I have three more stores in my area to try; local hardware store, 84 Lumber, and a tractor supply store. Hopefully, my search will be successful.

I have found some 14 gauge galvanized wire that is magnetic, but it measures about .075. May be a bit too large; plus it is very stiff. I think its some kind of fence wire.

Will report more when testing continues.


----------



## Turbo880Kawasak (Feb 9, 2005)

*Square wire*

http://www.unitedwirecompany.com/squarewire/index.htm 
http://www.radcliffwire.com/ 
http://www.ametekmetals.com/wire-custom.asp 
http://www.thomasnet.com/webresults.html?cov=MI&which=prod&what=Wire%3A+Square&heading=94890209&navsec=resultstab 
Hope this helps

Paul Jug
Only in america you can have artifically flavored lemonade and dish soap made with real leamons ??? :jest:


----------



## toypark (Feb 2, 2005)

i want to build a track like datona race track but very detailed with bleachers,garage.parking lot i will modfye it a little with a monorail. if any one has any tips what would work well it going to be a 1\64 scale mostle track. do they have 1\64 slot cars or ho scale and if so were can i buy the track any one know of any good sites with decent prices and helpfull tips are all ways welcomed


----------



## toypark (Feb 2, 2005)

when building a layout race track should i lay the track down first? or do i do the landscaping first? and any one know what kind of track is good to use?


----------



## RickP (May 15, 2002)

This is a continuation of my testing for my routed track. As I last reported, I was searching for the correct size of wire. I ended up using the 14 ga. wire as it fits my power slots. I think my power slot is a little wider then the 1/16 bit because my router may have some run out causing the bit to not rotate on its exact center. But that is what I have to work with for now.

I made a test track from 1/2" MDF 2 x 4 foot. I routed 2 lanes. I wanted to compare the wire power against copper tape. Conclusion: The wire performs much better then the copper tape. Obviously. there is more work and routing involved with using wire for the power rails, but I think in the long run it's worth it. The wire lane was usuable by all car types. The magnet cars got stuck in some places, but that is because I think the wire may be a bit too high. I would like to keep the wire above the surface about .005" to .007". That is pretty hard to determine with the equipment I was using. More time testing the depth of the power slots is needed. For the copper tape, it was easy to install, but my cars just don't operate with it. I think it is because there is not enough pressure on the pick ups. The tape is flat on the surface where as the wire sit slightly above it. If I pick up the back of the cars (applying more pressure to the pick up shoes) the motor will run. As soon as I set the car down, it stops. I may experiment with adding some braided wire to the pick ups, but I don't want to do that for all my cars. 

So now that my experiment is done and I know which method is my choice, comes the next step; designing the altimate layout to rout on a 4 x 8 foot sheet of MDF. I have time as this will probably be done out side and here in north east Ohio, it won't be warm enough for another month or so.

Rick


----------



## GoodwrenchIntim (Feb 22, 2005)

here is some flatwire http://www.moderninternational.com/wire/stitching.htm


----------



## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Rick, I had done the copper tape thing about 3 years ago. I had it all wired and ready to go. I also had the same trouble with contact and decided that converting all of my cars to slide-guides was NOT what I wanted to do. They are ugly, bulky and not exactly cheap for what they do. That small track,( 12 or so feet) leaned up against my shop wall and sat for 3 years until I broke it up and threw it awaywhen I got a new house. I thought "never again". Well, I will build a routed track.  I have 6 spools of that wire and a beautiful table built. 
I got my first taste of a routed track a few weeks ago and I just can't get it out of my head! I have seen the sites that some of the guys have been giving us links to and I am quite handy with the router (I build custom furniture) so I am going to do it!  Thanks for the new inspiration, Rick! :thumbsup:


----------



## RickP (May 15, 2002)

The problem with flat wire is that it is too thin. The power slot is about .062" and flat wire is about .020". Therefore, would need to find something to pack in besided the flat wire to hold it in. Thus the reason for using round wire; its thicker.


----------

