# AMT Budwieser Clydesdale Question



## Jimmy B (Apr 19, 2000)

Hi All. I just started the Budwieser AMT Bud Clydesdales. Has anyone done this kit? What's the best method of painting the vinal riens and harnesses? The Instrux clearly say to not use the same paint on the vinal that you would use for styrene plastic but doesn't indicate why. As an experiment I tried priming one of the runners made from this material but the primer wouldn't set and remained tacky even after sitting overnight. Suggestions?
Thanks - JB


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Sadly that kind of plastic is really hard to paint and whatever paint you do use will peel and flake if the parts flex at all.

Enamels and solvent based paints usually stay sticky/tacky on vinyl. Acrylics are your best bet.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Jimmy B said:


> Hi All. I just started the Budwieser AMT Bud Clydesdales. Has anyone done this kit? What's the best method of painting the vinal riens and harnesses? The Instrux clearly say to not use the same paint on the vinal that you would use for styrene plastic but doesn't indicate why. As an experiment I tried priming one of the runners made from this material but the primer wouldn't set and remained tacky even after sitting overnight. Suggestions?
> Thanks - JB


I used a gold paint pen. check out my pics from jaws62666 on this link
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=294295&highlight=budweiser+clydesdales


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## VADER66 (Nov 16, 2001)

That is right, use acrylic paint only. 
They are assuming that the builder will use enamel paints on the kit; therefore don't use the enamel on the vinyl parts. 

Good luck with it! I have always loved that kit. I still have my build up that I did almost 30 years ago. I built a long plexi case for it and it's been preserved at my mothers house all these years. Eventually I took it off her hands years ago and it's currently on display in my own house today.


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## Jimmy B (Apr 19, 2000)

Yes it looks like I'm just going to have to apply water based Acrylics without even priming. 
Jaws your production looks terrific and the photos are a great insperation for what I want to do. As for the vinal parts, even more frustrating than the painting woes are the excess flash around the parts that need to be delicatly sliced off. Its not like styrene where you can just glide the Xacto right over the edge of the part. I have to hold the part stretched out on a flat surface with one hand and slice each edge with the other. Mind-numbing


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## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

Oh boy - this thread brings back memories. I made my AMT kit back in the early 90s with my grandfather as my teacher. He made his years before and he provided all sorts of tips.

The paint I used and worked great was: Tamiya X12 Gold Leaf Acrylic Paint. It was like $2 at any hobby shop. Works great.

Another tip he taught me was how to pinstripe those white "wooden" wheels and harness boards. I basically used a small brush to fill in the groove and then used an Xacto knife to scrape off the overpaint. Worked like a charm.

I screwed up the wagon by not spraying clear coat to seal in the decals - but most will never notice.

This is a huge project that took a month or more to complete but I cherish this model more than any other item in my display case.

I also made the plexi display and put on a few badges to show it off. My buddy made the extra wooden base and I stained it to match the plastic base.


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## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

few more pics....I would be happy to answer anymore questions.


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## Jimmy B (Apr 19, 2000)

Very well done Boston Bob. I'm starting on the last two horses. I haven't even looked at the coach yet. 
Tell me - those gold plated coller rings - did you have the same problem I have where you can barely breath on them without having the front part snap? I know they're delicate, but gawd! 
Another challange I have is those thick vinal collers. The edges of those are detailed with tiny little squares all around which look good touched with gold. However the vinal sprews merge right into that detail where they connect with the part. Seperating really mars this detail no matter how careful you are with the Xacto.

All considered I'm really having a lot of fun working on this kit. I'm hoping to have it done by Christmas if time allows.

PS: That cool wreath idea you have there is likely to be copy-catted .


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## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

Again I made this kit in 1991 or 1992. I don't recall ever breaking the gold plated collar rings. I know it took all sorts of patience and I used those floral cushions to hold my horses while I painted them.

I know I had a tuff time gluing all the harness ropes(?) together.

It took a very long time to find the proper colors. My grandfather helped me pick the color for the Clydesdales. Possibly a railroad color. I custom fixed the color for my Budweiser employee. It was a very close match to what I saw at the Budweiser tour in Merrimack, NH. I was very proud of the details I put on my employee and dalmation "Bud".

The wreaths are regular HO scale I believe - not sure - my uncle gave them to me.

I had the opportunity to watch the Clydesdale team harness up all the horses at Sea World, FL for their parade. It took over 45 minutes but was very cool for a Bud nut like me.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Jimmy B said:


> Very well done Boston Bob. I'm starting on the last two horses. I haven't even looked at the coach yet.
> Tell me - those gold plated coller rings - did you have the same problem I have where you can barely breath on them without having the front part snap? I know they're delicate, but gawd!
> Another challange I have is those thick vinal collers. The edges of those are detailed with tiny little squares all around which look good touched with gold. However the vinal sprews merge right into that detail where they connect with the part. Seperating really mars this detail no matter how careful you are with the Xacto.
> 
> ...


I did mine last year right before Christmas. You cant see it from the pictures in my link above, but I actually broke 3 of the gold rings. They were very fragile. Still the kit came out great .


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## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

I saw the pics you posted and I agree yours looks great. It is funny to see two slightly different "versions" of the same model.

I am so glad I bought mine back when they cost $30 or so.


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## Jimmy B (Apr 19, 2000)

That is excellent work too Jaws. Really like the red pin-striping on the wheels. I'll also be displaying with the horses facing right so to get a better look at the maynes (sp?)


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## starduster (Feb 12, 2006)

BostonBob you also dd an outstanding job of this great model, I plan on building mine and your photos and jaws62666 photos will be a big help, as stated in the other post it's a shame models like these tend to get destroyed by people who have no knowledge of model kits but thanks to modelers like you two these models will be remembered. Karl


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## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

*Second question*

Nice buildup

There is something I have been wondering about that kit for a long time. Since I have never seen one built close up, how does the kit compare to the three bar light one's?

I got the long one and round one (burned out motor), but was never able to score the one with the clock (dangit).


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## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

cozmo said:


> Nice buildup
> 
> There is something I have been wondering about that kit for a long time. Since I have never seen one built close up, how does the kit compare to the three bar light one's?
> 
> I got the long one and round one (burned out motor), but was never able to score the one with the clock (dangit).


Are you asking how these compare to the actual Budweiser advertising signs and this AMT model? I own the 5 foot Clydesdale case from the 50s and the detail is no where even close to this EMT model. I would say the real Bud signs are more sturdy.


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## BostonBob (Oct 13, 2010)

I just found this pic on the web - I think I got a pretty good match on the uniform color for the driver.


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