# Neat Dyno building site



## Hornet

This is a cool site to check out for anybody into building their own dyno:thumbsup:

https://sites.google.com/site/simpledyno/the-dyno


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## Boosted-Z71

Here is an example of the Data you get from the SimpleDyno Software, This is all done with the headphone / coil setup. I will try to take some more screen shots of actually taking the data later


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## Solo2racr

I built one for HO slots from a previous dyno I had built. I'm looking into making a much smaller version to sell.

I was going to post pics but it tells me I need at least 5 posts to do that. :drunk:


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## Solo2racr

Just remembered I could add the pics as post attachments rather than link to where I have them online.


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## Hornet

Hey good to see you Solo,glad you made it over

Rick


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## Boosted-Z71

Solo can you post a pic of your Roller setup numbers in the Software
Here is mine.


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## Boosted-Z71

Here is a pick of my dyno, 

Rick in Solo's file you can see how he laid 3 dyno runs on 1 graph, tweak, dyno run, see results, repeat, and see all the results together, Just great software.

Boosted


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## Solo2racr

No prob, Boosted. I saw the weight of your car doesn't take into account the magnetic downforce. I use a couple strips of steel on the dyno to simulate the downforce on the track. I also have some scales to measure that with.


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## Hornet

Yea i was looking close at his graphs,and that's wild that it'll overlay the runs.
How do you know which Axis is which though,i haven't figured out which one is watts/torque etc.
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71

He does not have torque curve on his graph, I picked everything on the one I posted just to show it, the cool thing with the software is you just make the run, then on the analysis tab you can add the file you just made from the run and build the graph you want, using whatever options you want to see.

Boosted


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## Boosted-Z71

Solo2racr said:


> I saw the weight of your car doesn't take into account the magnetic downforce.


Actually it was a Stock AW Magna traction car, and the weight was measured with a magnet marshall, I use the stock track to sit the car on, as that is the same as the downforce the car gets on the track, the rails have been filed down to a constant .010 height above the track surface like my routed track. Just curious as I thought your roller was a bit heavier than mine. It seems that both roller builds call for a MOI of 0 for each application, so not sure if the roller weight is all that important in our scheme of measurement. 

What kind of car were you running, and what voltage? If I have the type of car I will throw it on my dyno for a number comparison just for grins to see if they are close.

Boosted


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## Solo2racr

I don't remember which car I was using to generate the graph. All I can tell you is that it was a Wizzard P3. The voltage was 18v. What I'll do is re-run my bone stock P3 and post those numbers.


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## Hornet

Jeff have you tried anything real fast yet.
Solo how far up the car class ladder have you gone on your dyno.
I'm a little curious about how adaptable and how many changes are required to swap between car classes ,say to go from a stock P3 with a 6.3 ohm arm and stock ceramic mags to a full tilt Neo P3/Storm,with say a arm that ohms down in the low 1.0's or even lower for ohmage.
Is it a big deal to get the roller weight re-calibrated,or will one roller weight cover more then one car class.
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71

Rick, with the software I have not tried anything in your scale of fast yet, however in the software you build the dyno roller to the mass & MOI of the car it does not mention anything about changes for different power levels, so I think other than adjusting the mass of the car including the downforce of the mags ( I know you ceramic & poly guys stick those cars hard to the track),changing the maximum values for the axis's, and gear ratio change, I believe is all you need to do.

I have done some hotter inline cars on my dyno and all I get is bigger numbers which makes sense.

Solo is going to do a stock P3 and I have one as well, so were going to compare dyno results for grins. 

Boosted


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## Hornet

Thanks Jeff

Awright,that makes it look way more attractive,i was wondering if the roller weight had to be calibrated to car class.
I'll be curious to see how it works when you try out poly car hint hint,lol

Dug out some old microphones last night,got some phone ones,with the mic and speaker.
I think one of them has to be filled with epoxy though,gotta go do some re-reading
Now to come up with some sort of roller set-up,don't think this'll adapt to my old dual motored slave dyno
Rick


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## Solo2racr

This is just a guess and I may be totally wrong here but, the calculations in the software for the SimpleDyno not take into account a couple things. One is the inherent drag in the roller as it spins and the magnetic drag in the pickup. The magnetic drag can be cured by a optical pickup but that will limit the options as to pickup design integration on the roller. Opticals must have something to break the light source signal, like a prop. This is the type of RPM sensor I used in my prior design. I used a R/C airplane prop tach. The other being friction in the roller itself. Of course, it can be limited but will always be there. The weight of the car will always cause more friction as that weight goes up. With the small amount of power that a slot car motor puts out, this will impact results more so than something putting out much more. Because of these variations, one shouldn't take to seriously the results from one dyno to the next.


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## Solo2racr

OK, here are screenshots of three runs with a stock Wizzard P3. There is still one thing I don't get and that is the difference between the watts shown on a run versus what is shown in the analysis. I guess I'll have to ask DamoRC about that one.

I also adjusted the car weight to reflect the lower magnet strength of a stock P3 as well as adjusted the gear ratio.


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## Boosted-Z71

Thanks Solo, I will get mine posted tonight when I get home, I assume these are ran at 18 volts as well.

Yes your right that is an issue with how much the dyno is loaded, that was discussed prior and I did some testing on another dyno that rolled free with little load on the roller, and the numbers it produced meant nothing, as car A performed very well on the dyno was a dog on the track. 

We kinda concluded that since the car was not loaded and just free revving on the dyno it made good numbers, when it had to pull itself on the track the torque was not there and it was a poor performer. The car was also beaten consistently in a 15 foot drag race by cars that produced lower numbers on this particular dyno. To me there is not much better test than a controlled drag race. 

Yes I would like to know about the watts difference as well, please post anything you hear from him. 

Not sure if you have seen it but I came up with a slick way to add resistance to a slave motor setup using additional magnets on the can to increase the magnetic field on the slave motor. Its a way of adding resistance to the setup without adding physical drag to the roller setup. I know on my dyno the magnet added for the pickup did not change anything over previous tests on cars that I had ran, so in my case the pickup was negligible. 

Thanks

Boosted


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## rholmesr

This is neat. Is it possible to plot torque or power on the vertical axis and speed on the horizontal axis? A speed-torque plot would really be cool!


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## Solo2racr

Sure, it's possible but, it's kinda funky to read.


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## rholmesr

A speed torque curve is very common in the industry I work in (integral HP electric motors). I'm must curious what it would look like on a little slot car motor.


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## Solo2racr

Like this?.....


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## Hornet

That's a curve that makes more sense to me too.
Is it hard to get the program to replicate the bell curve Solo
Rick


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## Solo2racr

It took a bit of playing to get the "Bell Curve" but, look at what boxes it ticked for the X axis and the Y1 axis.


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## Boosted-Z71

A question, if the torque goes to zero on the max RPM's does that mean the dyno is not loaded enough, as basically the car is free revving and essentially overcame the force of the rollers against it? 

Solo, I am Not throwing stones, just asking a theoretical type question for conversation sake. 

Lets hear your thoughts

Working on getting my stuff together to post after dinner.

Thanks for the graphs Solo,

Boosted


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## Solo2racr

Boosted-Z71 said:


> A question, if the torque goes to zero on the max RPM's does that mean the dyno is not loaded enough, as basically the car is free revving and essentially overcame the force of the rollers against it?


That would make sense. If you look at the screenshot above that I posted that shows the parameters, my roller mass is about half of what the "target" mass is. But, if you look at the pic below, you can see where I slimmed down the center to reduce the mass. I did this prior to finding DamoRC's software. The reason was that I burned down a car (the comm smoked) from too much load. Even now, with the reduced mass, I have to be careful not to run to long on the dyno. After about 30 seconds, the temps are higher than I like (around 150f). Much more and you will toast a armature. More load would only heat it up quicker. My thinking is that, while in theory I need about double the mass, in reality, these little motors just can't take it and will heat up to quickly. One run for a few seconds would probably be OK but I would check it after for temp. No back to back runs to confirm readings.


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## alpink

nice dyno Solo. looks like you know how to apply the info garnered from it as well.


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## Boosted-Z71

OK here is my graphs, the only difference is a slight mass difference on the car, less than 1 gram. As you can see this car is suffering on spring tension on the brushes, it hits real hard on the initial then backs off on the rpm.

Sorry did not have time to adjust them, been fighting with the internet all night, Did I mention I hate U-verse. 

Rick, just for grins, I ran my testing without the software, rpm & speed matched almost dead on with the laser & the Tamayia electronics to the Software.

Solo I made 3 runs, all I believe to be near 10 seconds, and not a lot of time between to cool off and the arm was 115 deg max.

Also I dont get the nice wave signal you get in your runs, mine is very short and close to the base line, I have my mic input turned down as well, any thoughts?

Anyway, enjoy, 

Boosted


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## slotking

I am thinking about maybe modifying my VRP dyno.

That way it still small enough for my race box, but when home, I can computerize it


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## Solo2racr

Good, cool temps. I had one ( my P3 SS I believe) get right at 200f at the comm and around 150f-160f on the stack.

On the signal, just turn up the gain until the peaks start to top out. If you can't get enough gain, move the sensor closer to the magnet. Mine is so strong, I had to get away from "mic in" and go to "line in"

I just machine another roller. It's mass is 30.3g. Heavier is not a problem, if need be. I can go up to around 110g with a solid 1.5"dia aluminum roller.


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## Boosted-Z71

Solo can you tell me the specs on how your coil is wound? number of turns, length etc.

My rollers are just at 28g with axle etc, but I also have it loaded with turning the slave motor, for voltage readings. 

Thanks

Boosted


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## Solo2racr

I wish I could. What I used was from an old passive speaker crossover from my old car stereo days. I was looking for an air core inductor to rewind onto a iron core when I came across what I am using. I have no idea how many turns or what gauge of wire.

I did just finish another roller today. This time I used bearings and not polished brass bushings on a polished HS steel axle. The new one does spin better but not by much. Though, it should last a good bit longer.


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## Boosted-Z71

For my coil I used some .024 magnet wire I had wound around a piece of plasti-struct 3/16 tubing, I have approx. 65 turns (about 3/4' long) and wound 3 layers as that was all the wire I had, then I found a nail and inserted into the end of the plasti-struct, for my Iron core. 

I take it your a machinist by trade?

I wish I could find some bearings for my rollers they are on brass bushing as well, but it would be an easy fix If I could find the bearings. 

I may wind up making a new roller like you did.

Post up some pics of the new roller

Boosted


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## rholmesr

The power/rpm plots are interesting.

I probably shouldn't be thinking about this without my requisite input of coffee. 

In my limited understanding, a DC Motor should typically show max torque at zero RPM and trail off to near zero at max speed. So seeing a bump or bell instead of a downward slope is a bit of a puzzler. However the end of the curve trailing off to zero makes sense. I think it goes to zero when the power of the motor equals the power of drag in the mechanism, hence zero net power.

I was going on the belief that power=torque but it's really not like that. Torque is (force) x (distance) and power is (force) x (distance) / (time). Maybe if torque is plotted on vert axis rather than power it would show a single downward sloping curve?

Thanks for posting this thread. It's real interesting stuff. 

Ron


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## slotking

please stop!
my head hurts! you all are to smart! I like it when others think about smart stuff without me knowing whats they be a thinking bout


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## LDThomas

slotking, I see you are off your meds again. <tisk, tisk>


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## Solo2racr

I'm still going through roller design. The problem lies in the varying amounts of downforce that different magnets generate. For example, my bone stock Wizzard P3 weighs 16.1g static plus 23.2g of magnetic downforce (total 39.3) where as the P3 that has Phase3 poly mags in JUST the motor weighs 17.2g static plus 45.3g magnetic downforce (total 62.5g). That's better than a 50% increase in weight that the motor has to pull around. This all relates to the MOI (moment of internia) of the roller and plays a big factor in how much to load a motor on the dyno. I am working on a system of interchangeable weights for the roller for different levels of motor performance. Stay tuned.


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## shocker36

Why cant the dyno be free wheeling on the start then loaded as the car gets up to RPM to prevent to much locked rotor start and smoking a motor? I can see if it was a drag car and you wanted to see how it would launch but aside from a drag track once the car gets moving its not like you stop it then go its constantly moving and that might give you a idea of how the car would act under those conditions. I only say this because I have a friend who dynos race cars of all kinds and one thing Ive noticed its never done in a launch condition but brought up thru the gears then gets on it. Just my 1/2 cent worth


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## Solo2racr

Simple. It's because it would be rather complicated and costly. A $60.00 car on a $600.00 dyno.


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## shocker36

In for a pinch in for a pound. All that is needed is for the holes to be oval instead of round where the drum sets and a simple lever to raise it with a threaded hole and a small bolt almost looking like a hinge mount door stop. Besides if youre a machinist your labor isnt cheap plust materials its probably cheaper to get one that is made. Or another idea is keep the roller fixed and something to raise and lower the track to simulate the distance from your traction mags to the rails.


Solo2racr said:


> Simple. It's because it would be rather complicated and costly. A $60.00 car on a $600.00 dyno.


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## Solo2racr

Go ahead and build one like that and let us know how that works for you.


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## shocker36

If i had the time i would. I barely have enough for races every other week and teardowns in between. All Im saying if your going through the effort of making something and its not truely representing whats actually happening on the track is it worth it? I mean you still have to build the car regardless and put some laps on the track to see if it runs right. Yeah I guess a dyno would be cool but just another step in the process, and was also just putting ideas out there to make it more realistic. Maybe a cheaper and easier way to simulate the magnetic downforce would be to use a scale and a piece of track and weigh the car the then use the difference of the weight and then put the weight on top of the car when its on the dyno. Just putting it out there so the testing is more accutate. Also having a $600 dyno i guess is no different than having a costly mag zapper and gauss meter and all the other costly little tools we have for this hobby.


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## Solo2racr

I'm just working within the restraints of the free software. To do what you are proposing (a variable load) would require a total redesign of that software. Calculating a ever changing MOI would need some serious software that I doubt would be free.


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## Hornet

Solo,are you still looking at building the roller and mic set-up.
I've been looking at building something using delrin rollers,but i'd be interested in one of yours first,before hauling things off to a machine shop:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Solo2racr

Yes I am. I did machine a new roller only to change the roller design to where on can add weight to get a high MOI. HO slots vary so greatly in motor output and magnetic downforce that a single roller weight and MOI just isn't really going to work for them all.


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## Solo2racr

HA.....Talking with DamoRC (the software designer) at SimpleDyno some more and have further redesigned the roller, again. The more I learn from DamoRC, the more I learn what his software wants and is capable of. Don't worry, the design keeps getting better. This is what R&D is all about.


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## Hornet

Keep me in mind,i'll take one
You're an artist with some talents:thumbsup:

Are you doing an add on disc style weight?

We run alot of neo cars,and i was wondering if roller weight would change for them say from a stock ceramic car.
Rick


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## Solo2racr

I see you have been reading a bit over on DamoRC's board. Yea, disc weights to add mass for higher output motors. What I want to do is to have the magnets attached to the discs. The MOI calcs are different when you add individual magnets out toward the edge.


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## Hornet

LOL,O-ya.Ever since you posted the first link,i've been reading
Takes awhile to get through all 7 pages, there's some good reading over there,and some smart guys:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Hornet

Any updates on the dyno's.
Boosted has been under the weather the last few days,so he hasn't been doing much on his dyno,sure curious about your progress Solo:thumbsup:
Still thinking of selling them:wave:
Rick


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## Solo2racr

I finally got most of the needed materials in and the math worked out (BIG thanks to DamoRC over at the SIMPLE DYNO website for all the help) and I am getting ready to start building. Pics will be forthcoming.......


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## Hornet

I'll take one:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Solo2racr

Tentative price right now will be around $150.00 but, I still need to actually get one built just to see what and how much time and machine work is involved. Having done one before, although a bit different, gives me an idea of what I am looking at.


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## Hornet

I'm in for one:thumbsup:
For the amount of machining that looks to be involved that's a pretty decent price.
Let me know when you have one ready,and i'll ship some money your way Solo:wave:
Rick


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## Solo2racr

Will do. What I have come with works on the same sensor principle as the one in the pics but will be smaller and with disc weight to change the mass on the roller which will accommodate different cars IE: different motor/traction magnets and arms.


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## Hornet

LOL,make sure it'll have enough roller weight to accomodate Neo cars,with 1.4 ohm custom arms etc.:thumbsup:
I race in a weekly league,and that's the only cars the guys run in the weekly winter series.
At my house i run everything from brass weighted cars to Neo's,all inlines though,no pancakes,so it'll have to accomodate a few car classes:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Solo2racr

I had an order come in for my "regular" work and had to take care of that this week. I should be starting on a dyno this evening and through the weekend. Looking to have one done the first of the week.


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## Hornet

Solo,check your Pm's
Rick


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## tossedman

Anything new to report Solo? I'm curious to see what you come up with. 

Todd


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## Hornet

I've seen pic's of the new one now Todd.
It's a work of art.:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Solo2racr

Here are the same pics I sent to Hornet. I still need to wind the pick-up coil and wire it today. It took awhile to get all the jigs, patterns and tooling made up so the next one will go much faster.


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## Hornet

Let me wipe the drool off the pic's,lol:thumbsup:

You know it's almost too pretty,lol

You might have to drop it a few times before shipping,otherwise a guy'll just look at it and drool over it,and be scared to use it for fear off putting a mark on it.

Man you do nice work:thumbsup:.

I'm sneaking away right at the moment Ken,get back to you in a bit
Rick


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## LDThomas

Wow!!!


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## tossedman

I want one just because it looks so cool!


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## Hornet

As soon as Ken finalizes a price on them with shipping,you got one coming too,lol:wave:.

Hey keep your ears open for a cheap preferably used laptop Todd,i think i'll buy one just for the dyno.
Rick


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## LDThomas

If they do T-Jets, sign me up for one.


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## rholmesr

W o w ! ! ! !


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## Hornet

Larry contact Ken,if this one is too heavy for a T-jet,i'm pretty sure he'd do a lighter roller version .
Here's a link to his website,he builds some very nice motorcycle parts.:thumbsup:

http://www.n-rperformance.com/


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## Solo2racr

FINALLY got the first one done. Had a minor setback with the acrylic cracking from countersunk screws being to tight. Had to re-machine the car stand and use button head screws. But, it's all good now.

On T-jets, I'll have an opportunity this weekend to try a number of different cars and just see what it will handle. I know I have the high end covered with the discs and I know I can run a stock LL"T" car as well. Here is a pic of the finished dyno, though, future ones may have clear acrylic as opposed to this one having smoke colored acrylic.

Also for those wondering, the "footprint" measures 3 3/4" x 4 3/8" and 2 1/2" tall.


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## Boosted-Z71

Solo - Very Nice 

I also like your website & the parts for the SR's, I own a very well built RZ, but big thumpers have a warm place in my heart. 

Boosted


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## Hornet

LOL,it's got the right kind of car sitting on it for me.:thumbsup:

Have you tried a Storm on it,they have a slightly longer traction mag box Ken.
Rick


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## LDThomas

S2R, I will keep an eye on the thread to see your testing results using several different cars. My primary interest would be in T-Jets, followed by anything pancake.

Thanks!


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## neorules

Nice work! One suggestion that might simplify the drag variance. Instead of changing to different weight and size wheels, why not create magnetic drag that can be dialed in for more or less roller resistance. One wheel with magnets on it and the other magnets in the curved housing. Might make for a more simple and efficient system of adjusting drag for different car types. Steel wheel with variable distance magnet could work as well.


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## Solo2racr

Magnetic drag would make it hard to calculate the load on the car. The power calcs in the software are based on a known load. The software works on Moment of Inertia calcs and it would be just about impossible to measure the effect a magnetic field would have to the MOI, given the forces would vary with different distances from center. To get accurate results, the software needs accurate numbers. This is also the same reason I got away from an iron core inductor for the sensor and went with an air core inductor. The magnets on the roller cause a fair bit of unknown drag with the iron core and place a incalculable amount of drag on the car, thus skewing the results.


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## neorules

I see Solo2racr, the temp would also create more or less magnetic field as well. Hard to account for those variables.


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## Solo2racr

We had a race here last Sunday and one person brought some T-Jet and Fray cars. Solely based on what I saw of them on the track, both would be seriously strained on this dyno. I had never messed with them before and compared to any inline car I have ever run, they just don't make near the power. Could one be done for these cars? Yes. But, not in it's existing configuration.


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## tossedman

Hornet said:


> As soon as Ken finalizes a price on them with shipping,you got one coming too,lol:wave:.
> 
> Hey keep your ears open for a cheap preferably used laptop Todd,i think i'll buy one just for the dyno.
> Rick


I think I've got a line on a laptop Rick. Cheap, as in gratis, free even. I'll let you know if it works in the next few days.

Solo, that looks and sounds better with every post you make. By the way, what's a T-Jet? :tongue:

Cheers eh,

Todd


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## Solo2racr

tossedman said:


> By the way, what's a T-Jet? :tongue:


Exactly :thumbsup:


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## Boosted-Z71

tossedman said:


> By the way, what's a T-Jet? :tongue:
> 
> Todd


A finely tuned Racing Machine :thumbsup:

Boosted


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## Hornet

Thanks Todd,free is always the best:thumbsup:

Model T and T-jet,2 finely tuned racing machines:wave:

Sorry Jeff couldn't resist,lol:wave:.

Son of gun,don't any of you guys go to bed,lol
Rick


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## Hornet

Now we have to track down some volt meters and amp meters Todd.

I've been waiting to see how Jeff makes out with his amp meter install though,it's been giving him some static.

I was looking at some shuntless units good for 5 amps on e-pay in the meantime though 
Although i can probably kit bash enough old dead multi-meters to get more then enough shunts if we need them

Have you downloaded the program yet Todd?
Rick


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## LDThomas

*Interesting...*

Thank you very much for the efforts and information. That is the answer I was expecting, though not wanting. 




Solo2racr said:


> We had a race here last Sunday and one person brought some T-Jet and Fray cars. Solely based on what I saw of them on the track, both would be seriously strained on this dyno. I had never messed with them before and compared to any inline car I have ever run, they just don't make near the power. Could one be done for these cars? Yes. But, not in it's existing configuration.


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## Solo2racr

If anyone is interested in one of these dynos, you can contact me through my blog.... NRPSlots


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## Hornet

Just got the dyno's today,and man you guys gotta see the work Ken does:thumbsup:

These things are so nice,i'm scared to get them dirty.

Definitely well worth the money if your looking at an aftermarket dyno:thumbsup:

Thanks Ken

Rick


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## Hornet

Todd was out this afternoon taking pic's.:thumbsup:

Thanks Todd:wave:






































The converted Tamiya Speed Checker was built by Boosted with a few mods thrown at it by me

Thank-you Boosted.

The box below is a self contained power /controller box for SoloRacers dyno.

Both dyno's are works of art,and i'd like to thank both Jeff and Ken for their patience and skill in building them.

Thanks guys Rick

And man are they fun,lol
Just love spinning a car up on them,it's just like having a real car on a chassis dyno:thumbsup:


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## Hornet




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## Boosted-Z71

Rick you succeeded in getting more in the box than I did, Nice job it looks great, I like the separate power box.

Todd takes great pictures

Great Job

Boosted


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## tossedman

Boosted-Z71 said:


> Rick you succeeded in getting more in the box than I did, Nice job it looks great, I like the separate power box.
> 
> Todd takes great pictures
> 
> Great Job
> 
> Boosted


That's one of the first things I've ever seen Rick build that isn't held together with hot glue. Oops! I lied. Took another look. They work great though, as per usual. Good work Rick, you got that all scienced out and McIvered together.

Pictures aren't bad eh? They were taken with my iPhone.

Todd


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## Hornet

LOL hot glue and JB Weld,i'd be lost with-out them

Todd's pictures always impress me,i think he could of been a pretty decent photog,if he wasn't a pretty fine teacher:thumbsup:.

It's actually a little less cluttered then it used to be Jeff,lol.
At one point in time,the amp draw box with the red toggle switch,that's piggybacked onto the back of the laptop brick was inside it.
That's the 3 unused holes in the side of it,but you know the outcome of why they aren't there anymore,lol.
I could put the amp draw back in the side again now that we have that problem sorted out,but it's a pile of work to move the connectors once again,so they're gonna stay where they are,at least for now.

Still need a better laptop brick for the power/controller box for Ken's,i have a 24 volt one on it now,but it's way to light at 500ma.
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71

Here is the thread with a pic of the newly updated Dyno, 

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=388323

Boosted


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## Boosted-Z71

Here is a short video of my dyno in action, forgive the camera skills






Boosted


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## Hornet

Thanks Jeff.

Nothing wrong with the video,it's good enough to make a world of differance on mine:thumbsup::wave:
Rick


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## Hornet

Thanks to a bunch of help from Jeff and Todd,i've finally got the read-outs reading right on Windows 8.
Don't think Todd much cares for Windows 8 now.
Thanks guys,i owe you both big time.
With-out your help,i was getting ready to toss my new laptop and buy an older version.:thumbsup:
Very appreciative Rick:wave:


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## tossedman

Yup, Windoze Ate sux. They've hidden everything. Got my dyno working at work with the Simple Dyno software. Now to get it working on my Mac at home using Parallels. It seems to be missing something.

Cheers eh,

Todd


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## Solo2racr

Just finished up a one-off dyno for myself. Re-used some old R/C car parts and threw in some acrylic and cherry wood for a more "elegant" look.  I also used a optical sensor this time.


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## Boosted-Z71

Very Nice, does the optical sensor work as good as the coil / magnet pick up? The stock sensor in the Tamayia unit is an optical sensor.

Boosted


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## Solo2racr

Seems to. Here is a link to a video of the dyno running. It's a screen recording of the software. You can see the sensor signal in the lower right.


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## kriket

*dyno*

how much are these dynos?


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## Solo2racr

The software is free. You can find it here.... https://sites.google.com/site/simpledyno/home


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## Hornet

Wow,the cherry wood is an over the top touch Ken:thumbsup:


Rick


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## Hornet

Ken do you still have your mic and channel settings from your earlier versions:thumbsup:.
I'm having a hard time getting my power curves to look like yours and Jeffs power curves.
Mine are very spikey in comparision.
Thanks
Rick


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## Solo2racr

Sounds like you need to play with the "chan 1" and "chan 2" settings down in the lower right part of the "MAIN" screen. I had the same problems with the new dyno that uses optical sensors. The curve during the run had spikes in it. DamoRC can help more with the specifics of what these setting do. I'm sure there is info about them as well on his website.


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## Hornet

Thanks to help from Jeff,i've finally managed to find the mic control in Windows 8.
I've had the channel settings all over the place,but haven't played with the mic settings much.
Was just looking for a baseline to start with on the mic setting.:thumbsup:
Thanks guys
Rick


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## Solo2racr

So many different mics with so many different sensitivities..... A base line would be impossible to guess. Sound cards will also have different sensitivity levels. Just set the gain as high as you can and try to get as close to the top of the window with the peaks without hitting the top. Here is a pic from my first dyno. You can see how the peaks are just to the top of the window. This one had an iron core in the sensor and I had to use the "Line In" setting because it was so hot of a signal. I got away from this as the iron core and the rotating magnets caused a fair bit of drag as each magnet passed by but, it had a real good signal. You can also try adjusting the sensor closer to the magnet disc to get a stronger signal.

BTW.....I was using a SB X-fi card.


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## Hornet

Thanks Ken,that info helps alot.:thumbsup:
I was going the wrong way,i was trying to miminize the spikes in the bottom window,and turning the mic down.
Rick


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