# Cutting Down a Guide Pin



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I realize this is a really simple question, but which method do you use for cutting down the length of a guide pin? I have Tyco/Mattel track so the stock AFX/JL/AW blade guide pin is a shade too long and needs to be trimmed. I am tired of trying to hold the pin in my hand and file it down. There has to be a better way.

Thanks...Joe


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

if it is a metal guide pin
I use my dremel with a sanding wheel.
if the pin is glued in or will not move, I sand a slight angle on the tip with the back longer than the front.

That way it slide over any problems it may encounter.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Chuck it up in the dremel, use a file to shorten it to length, then some fine sand paper to polish it.

Just make sure it is secure in the Dremel or your going to be looking for it across the room.

There is a trimming guide tool that you put the pin through then cut it with a razor knife (plastic guides of course) 

Boosted


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I had that problem with L&J with the Xtractions. I bought an assortment of exacto blades (with the larger knife) and one was kinda shaped like a chisel. I would hold the car on it's side with the blade (pin blade) on the edge of my bench and slice a little off the bottom. It wasn't perfect, but it was fast!


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

I have used a finger nail trimer, a file, or a piece of emery cloth


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

*Instead of cutting the guide flag....*

Just flip the guide pin over and use the shorter pin side. That way you can have the flag for when you go places with deeper-slotted tracks. It's easy to pop out the pin.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I like that fingernail trimmer idea! Puts a natural curve on the bottom.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

dlw said:


> Just flip the guide pin over and use the shorter pin side. That way you can have the flag for when you go places with deeper-slotted tracks. It's easy to pop out the pin.


On some cars, the blade side produces a much smoother transition on plastic track, which is why I like using it. I opened a thread on blade vs. pin a long time ago where I asked about experiances with the two different sides of the guide.

Joe


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> On some cars, the blade side produces a much smoother transition on plastic track, which is why I like using it.


but in a hot race, the marshal can be delayed getting the car back into the slot if the blade is side ways and they did not look 1st


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## rdm95 (May 8, 2008)

Couldn't you put the pin in an empty chassis and then file, cut, or sand it down to how you want it? The idea is to have the chassis hold the pin so you dont have to.. I dunno?


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

slotking said:


> but in a hot race, the marshal can be delayed getting the car back into the slot if the blade is side ways and they did not look 1st


I agree you would not want to use a blade guide in a race unless it had some type of spring action which always returned it to the neutral position. But for running in the basement on sectional track, the blade can sometime be much smoother.

As to using the chassis to hold the guide while filing, etc., I've thought of that. However, I have to believe that after a while the part that holds the guide will wear and no longer hold it very tight.

Chucking it into a Dremel is an interesting thought too.

I had a thought of taking a couple old credit-like plastic cards (two of them together are the same thickness as the guide hole of an AFX chassis) and drilling one (or more) hole(s) through them the size of the hole in an AFX chassis. Then do one of two things...

1. Cut the card down the center of the hole(s) so each half of the card has half the hole. Put the blade in the half hole, hold the card together (which will hold the guide(s)) and file away.

2. Drill the holes near the edge of the card and then cut away some of the card to simulate the opening to the hole as found on a chassis. Then snap the blade(s) into the hole(s) and file/trim.

Joe


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## smalltime (Jun 3, 2006)

Grandcheapskate said:


> I realize this is a really simple question, but which method do you use for cutting down the length of a guide pin? I have Tyco/Mattel track so the stock AFX/JL/AW blade guide pin is a shade too long and needs to be trimmed. I am tired of trying to hold the pin in my hand and file it down. There has to be a better way.
> 
> Thanks...Joe



Leave the pin in your chassis, and find a sharp exacto knife.

Next stand the chassis on end, with the front facing towards you. Then place the pin on the edge of a handy bench top. (you are looking straight down at the front of the chassis here.)

Slice Very small bits from the end of the pin, Then try the pin on the track, or do an inspection with your test track.


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## rdm95 (May 8, 2008)

Pin vise might work too..??


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I still like the nail clipper idea. The cutting surface mimics the bottom edge of the blade. It's just a matter of not cutting off too much pin.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

you can take a piece of wood that would be as deep as you want to go
drill a hole in it
place the car on the wood with the pin in the hole
anything sticking out can be removed

this will be different sizes based on the front tire OD.
so with a plastic guide pin, an exacto knife or flat nose clippers.
with metal pins, see my post above


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

For sectional....

Pushing down using light pressure and slide the assembled car along a single piece of track. The guide pin will click and drop as it exits the slot. Cut it off neatly with a fresh hobby blade. Yer done.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> Pushing down using light pressure and slide the assembled car along a single piece of track. The guide pin will click and drop as it exits the slot. Cut it off neatly with a fresh hobby blade. Yer done.


I often found that my front tires were also off the track when i did this.

the key is o have the GP as long as possible without it touching the bottom of the slot

you kind of do what you saying if you make a hole in the slot itself.
this way the tires are on the track
, and as you roll the car over the hole, if catches, it to long


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Abracadabra....*

You were watching my hands again werent you? 

Obviously, if the "track trick" doesnt work with your current set up, switch to the SWB position to make the cut....or if ya absolutely insist on using the LWB position just rotate the guide forward. It couldnt be more simple.

D'oh!


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> Obviously, if the "track trick" doesnt work with your current set up, switch to the SWB position....or if ya absolutely insist on using the LWB position just rotate the guide forward. Either way works perfect. EVERYTIME.
> 
> D'oh!


but that's a lot of extra work for each car not in the swb format.
depending on the front end, each time you swap around, you weaken the grip of wheel stops, and you have to unglue the guide pin, clean out where it was then re-glue when your done.

much better off with a jig for any wheel base car.
the jig also make it easy to cut in the right place

I am just looking at from a racing POV, because i found that I have to make adjustments to existing GP already glued on the car.


but whatever your happy with, go for it


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

My old X-Acto Heavy-duty knife/saw handle 








has a collet that an AFX pin slides into smoothly. A slight twist of the collar clamps it tightly. It's a lot easier to hold for freehand filing or clipping than the pin itself. 

Assuming the blades of all your pins are the same depth, you can drop a bit of dowel down the hole, so that the right amount of pin always protrudes, then use the end of the collet as a gauge to clip or file the pin to a consistent length. 

But using the aluminum collet as a filing gauge for a large number of pins will wear it down so the pins will come out progressively shorter. 

But a short piece of small diameter brass tubing could be dropped over the pin for a harder consistent length gauge ... 

Or ... 

*Go deluxe ...*









A .45 cartridge case fits perfectly over the saw collet. Grind the case-head down until the pin protrudes the proper distance, collect all your pins into a shallow container, then you can precisely trim one after another while you sit in the recliner watching the Velocity channel. 

(If you want, PM me your mailing address, Joe, and I'll send you this one. I have no need for a pin trimming gauge - I just got carried away solving the problem. Let me know how well it works - I'm a designer, not a product tester.)

-- D


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

cool

for me
I have a SCM guide pin gauge:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

It just thoroughly amazes me, as to how difficult, and to what lengths such a simple procedure can be taken. I myself prefer the old school, caveman method myself. It's a lot easier and a lot faster, without all of the extra whoooey attached. Fire up the chainsaw boys, let's have at it!! :freak:


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Wokka wokka, yerself, Mr. Pig. It's even *worse* than that. 

The TM had a TV show on that I didn't want to watch, so I was quick-scanning HT's latest posts, and had the X-acto handle right there, measured it and said, what would go over that? Well, *duh*! And it already has a little hole in the end! I was able to escape to the garage for some grinding and filing that would just about fill up the remainder of the show.

Now Joe gently tells me in a PM that I'd misread the thread, and it was the *blade* side that needed the haircut, not the pin. Well ... *d'oh*!

Jeezh! Ya try ta help a guy ...
(Thanks Joe, I appreciate the consideration) :wave:

-- D


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Dslot said:


> Now Joe gently tells me in a PM that I'd misread the thread, and it was the *blade* side that needed the haircut, not the pin. Well ... *d'oh*!
> 
> (Thanks Joe, I appreciate the consideration) :wave:
> 
> -- D


Hi D,
Yeah, it is the blade side that needs trimming. The origin of the dual sided guide started when Aurora introduced AFX track which had a deeper slot than L&J track.

At first, my understanding is AFX cars came out with a single sided rectangular shaped blade which was short enough to be used on either type track - I have a number of these. While I really like these blades, they will find every misaligned slot joint. Great for testing the smoothness of your track. These do not have a taped leading edge and they may be a shade thicker than the more common blade, which may explain why they are more sensitive to track misalignment. 

Then they came out with the more common dual sided guide. The pin side was to be used for L&J track; the blade side was longer to take advantage of the deeper AFX track slot depth.

What I was really asking in this thread is more about how you hold the blade while you trim it, rather than what you use to trim it. I just think there has to be a better method than holding the guide in your hand and filing it down. Especially if you are doing tens, if not hundreds, of them.

Thanks...Joe


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

> _Joe sez_ - What I was really asking in this thread is more about how you hold the blade while you trim it, rather than what you use to trim it. I just think there has to be a better method than holding the guide in your hand and filing it down. Especially if you are doing tens, if not hundreds, of them.


Well, Joe, the X-acto handle would still hold the pin comfortably, even if you just _have_ to do it with the blade end out. :hat: 

_*In fact,*_ with the right-sized piece of tubing down the handle, you could still use the end of the collet as a trimming gauge. :hat::hat: 

*In fact, in fact*, with a slot cut by a motor-tool abrasive wheel, you can even










It just goes to show, that if you have enough raw talent, you can come up with the right answer, _even if you have no idea what the question was_.

-- D
Well, that was ... awkward.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Depends on how much blade you need to remove. If its a lot, I lay it on the edge of my oak cutting block and snick it off a bit long using the hobby blade.

Then just click it into dead chassis with a good front fork and carefully stroke it down on some 220 until your happy with the depth. If I'm feeling really fussy, I'll dress any ragged edges with a quick rub on 600. I try NOT to ever sharpen the leading or trailing blade angles in any way. Sharp edges only serve to aggravate joint snagging. 

I run every kind of guide, but I've always preferred the "Specialty" non pinned guide for it's blunt features because they cant get catchy with minor irregularities at the track joints. Sadly they are just not that available. 

Only takes a minute or three if you have all the odds and ends at the ready.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

dslot said:


> it just goes to show, that if you have enough raw talent, you can come up with the right answer, _even if you have no idea what the question was_.
> 
> -- d
> well, that was ... Awkward.


LOL!! Now that's funny!!


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Bill Hall said:


> I run every kind of guide, but I've always preferred the "Specialty" non pinned guide for it's blunt features because they cant get catchy with minor irregularities at the track joints. Sadly they are just not that available.


Bill,
Are you talking about the slightly larger one sided blade which is rectangular in shape? I find that one the most finicky of all if your track joints are slightly misaligned. But if the slot joints are smooth, it's a nice blade.

Joe


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Thats the one!

My standard disclaimer is in order. My track is carefully attached to a sturdy light, weight ladder frame. All slot transitions are carefully filed. Rail transitions are filed, honed, and sanded. Track surface transitions are shimmed level. I rekon for those reasons, I never have consistency issues with the track to speak off. It was a pain in the ass to do but I also never have problems with guides or shoes.

The down side is that the layout design will likely never change.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Bill Hall said:


> Thats the one!
> 
> My standard disclaimer is in order. My track is carefully attached to a sturdy light, weight ladder frame. All slot transitions are carefully filed. Rail transitions are filed, honed, and sanded. Track surface transitions are shimmed level. I rekon for those reasons, I never have consistency issues with the track to speak off. It was a pain in the ass to do but I also never have problems with guides or shoes.
> 
> The down side is that the layout design will likely never change.


Ahh, that explains the love affair with that blade guide. I have already filed down the slot transitions to the point where nearly every car goes through without a problem.

However, this particular guide finds problems which other guides do not. I am currently trying to "repair" all the track joints with even the slightest hint of a problem using clay. I experimented on one joint and the results are impressive. It's quick, easy and removeable - three key elements to me. The only question is longevity, and only time will tell.

Interesting tidbit about the rectangular blade. I have noticed it can act quite differently depending upon which end is facing forward.

Thanks...Joe


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Working off Bill's suggestion -

Cut a slot-width strip of 220 sandpaper and use double-sided tape to stick it in the slot of a spare piece of track. Put the car on it, and gently move it back and forth until the sandpaper isn't getting any bite. Blow out the dust and it's on to the next car. Finish them all later with the 600 grade, if they need it.

Thinking of stuff is fun, especially when somebody else has to test it.

-- D


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Dslot said:


> Working off Bill's suggestion -
> 
> Cut a slot-width strip of 220 sandpaper and use double-sided tape to stick it in the slot of a spare piece of track. Put the car on it, and gently move it back and forth until the sandpaper isn't getting any bite. Blow out the dust and it's on to the next car. Finish them all later with the 600 grade, if they need it.
> 
> ...


I don't know if this is a viable method. That blade guide is pretty tough. It may be fairly unimpressed by rubbing against sandpaper.

Joe


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I would think a spare chassis to hold the guide securely and a moto tool with any number of abrasive tool bits, for instance a sanding drum, would suffice.
unless this has already been offered and rejected.


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