# Engine swap



## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I just thought someone might like to see these pictures. Me and a friend of mine (he's a machinist) decided to repair an old power tamper that we got for free. The original motor on the tamper was a 3hp 2 cycle engine that had seen much better days. We looked around to find another 2 cycle engine that would work, but we couldn't come up with anything so we decided to put a 5hp Honda 4 cycle pressure washer engine on it (because we already had one).

My friend machined out a really nice chromoly engine adapter and engine mount, and I rebuilt the piston assembly in the tamper itself. We slapped everything together and took it for a spin...man did it work great. The only problem that we have is that there is a little fuel leakage around the top of the carb bowl...nothing serious, just enough to notice. We might see if we can find a diagpragm carb that will work on the Honda engine to elimitate the fuel leakage problem.

Used Tamper: $0
5hp Honda engine: $0
Engine adapater & mount: $0
Piston assembly sleeve: $120

Watching the newly rebuilt tamper beat a hole into to ground: PRICELESS

Tamper Pics


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## Iron head (Feb 3, 2005)

aright prety cool eh. instead of trying to get a new car unless ya wana chane to a diaphram. just replace the seal above the float. that will probly fix your problem. yeah float's suck but it saves the trouble of finding a diaphram carb that fits. :thumbsup:


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I think we may need to put a better gas tank on it too. I'm not sure that stock Honda tank is going to stand up to the beating it's going to get.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

what type of tank is on it now, the stocker, you could just take a steel gas tank from a used engine and retro it on to it to keep from making one. if the carb isn't attached to the carb which i ain't sure but you could just weld another one on.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

It's the Honda stock plastic tank. It is held in place by being securely bolted in 3 points, but the thing I'm worrying about is the barb for the fuel line. Because of the way the fuel line has to run, the fuel line flops around a little when the tamper is running. I'm just afraid that the barb on that plastic tank is going to snap off.

After thinking about it, the easiest solution is going to be to strap down the fuel line more securely instead of trying to redo the fuel tank.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yeah that might work. i had a prob with the rider doing that, bouncing around but the idget strapped it to the mower and it shook like crazy.


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## mustang91347 (Feb 3, 2005)

have a few metal honda tanks layin around pulled off them types of motors. work on a lot of construction equipment. email me at [email protected] if interested. not gonna try n rip u off or anything either


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I just realized something....you can't see the pictures unless you are logged in.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

i can when i don't log in


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

Weird...if I'm not logged in I can't see the pics because they are attachments.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

huh wierd, when i use the 98 since i don't have auto sign in on it can go to it, i think i'll try later on it.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

Fixed it...now everyone should be able to see the pictures.


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## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

good work , the adapter ? is it made out of stainless steel ? killer dog braces on the bottom of the engine , you should call it the binford 2000 killer work thumbs up


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

The engine adapter is 4130 chromoly steel, the struts for the engine are A36 hot rolled structural steel, and the engine base plate is A36 structural plate.

Also for anyone who is curious...the engine adapter is one solid piece even though it looks like it is welded together in 3 sections. The welds are actually there because my friend tim wasn't able to machine a fillet into the sections of the adapter where it necks down. When there is no fillet (i.e. a sudden transition between two diameters) there is a situation created known as a stress raiser where stress at these transitions can jump to as high as 3-4 times higher than the average stress of the part. By adding a weld to these points, the transition is smoothed out and there is no longer a problem with stress. This is very important since the motor adapter will be experiencing both torsion and cyclic bending.


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