# Is Paragrafix Making P. Etch For 1/6 B9?



## actias (May 19, 2003)

Will Paragrafix be making a photo etch set for the New 1/6 B9 robot? If so when will it be available?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I am sure they will. Have you asked them directly?


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

In another thread Paul said that he was considering it.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I originally wasn't going to (the kit's just too darned good). However, I've gotten so many requests that I'm working up what to include.


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## Rallystone (Apr 16, 2010)

How about replacement grills for the torso vents? The kit's are a simple 90 degree crosshatch, but the actual grills were a diamond-shape expanded aluminum.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

The brain parts and radar ears would be good.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

And the chess fingers for his claws


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## steviesteve (Apr 27, 2009)

jimkirk said:


> The brain parts and radar ears would be good.


And the tiny gears to make them move!
:wave:

I agree with the idea of the brain parts. I'm looking forward to whatever Paul decides to put out!


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Pivots for the ankles and the tiny wrist clips. 
Edit: the radar ears were clear in the 1st season, soon dusted, like everything else shiny (Chariot, freezing tubes, astrogator, bubble head) with powder to make them not reflect lighting.


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

Yes please! Especially the big triangle in the brain (so that all those hole patterns around the triangle can have lights behind them) and the flower petal disc that goes on top of the triangle (done in the mirror finish metal). Definitely the ear spinners (I believe they were thin metal on the original) and the knee joint hinges. Maybe a grid for the end of the mic. or detail insert for the power pack. *Just some ideas *:thumbsup:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

actias said:


> Yes please! Especially the big triangle in the brain (so that all those hole patterns around the triangle can have lights behind them) and the flower petal disc that goes on top of the triangle (done in the mirror finish metal). Definitely the ear spinners (I believe they were thin metal on the original) and the knee joint hinges. Maybe a grid for the end of the mic. or detail insert for the power pack. *Just some ideas *:thumbsup:


This, I would buy!


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

I would add 'screw heads' for the molded in screw heads around the hanging points.

The molded in ones are distorted due to the curved surface and the factory didn't take that into account.

I sanded mine off and went out and bought actual micro brass screws.
drilled out holes and applied them.

A PE screw head would make that soooooo much easier.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

ClubTepes said:


> I would add 'screw heads' for the molded in screw heads around the hanging points.
> 
> The molded in ones are distorted due to the curved surface and the factory didn't take that into account.
> 
> ...


Great idea! Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Great idea! Thanks! :thumbsup:


If you do what I did, the smallest ones I found were still too large.

I had to grind them to a smaller diameter.

What I did was buy screws with longer shafts so that I could load them into my dremel.

Then I set my calipers for .06".
I ground the screws down on some medium grit hobby sanding film. 
Once I could pass the screw through the .06" opening, I rounded off the head a little bit (I started with flathead screws).

Then I had to drill the holes out on the kit.
One diameter for the shaft, and another to slightly countersink the head to the proper thickness.

So you can see why I say some PE ones would be A LOT easier.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Just drill the screws out, use some plastic rod as a peg. Score a slot in the cut end for the screw part and just sink it as much as you need. You can adjust the depth. I think Aber also makes photo etch screw heads in assorted sizes already.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

ClubTepes said:


> If you do what I did, the smallest ones I found were still too large.
> 
> I had to grind them to a smaller diameter.
> 
> ...





djnick66 said:


> Just drill the screws out, use some plastic rod as a peg. Score a slot in the cut end for the screw part and just sink it as much as you need. You can adjust the depth. I think Aber also makes photo etch screw heads in assorted sizes already.




What do you guys think about this? http://www.scalehardware.com/


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> What do you guys think about this? http://www.scalehardware.com/


I got rivets from them for my TSDS j-2 launch tower. Good place to buy from!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Photoetch of the majority of pieces in the brain area would help immensely. Anywhere else would be a plus. Any updates from Paul on this?


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## rondenning (Jul 29, 2008)

Yes all the brain parts, spinner ears, screw heads, and 3 pieces for the chest light areas(easier to paint and install than to mask off the chest area for painting), and any other 1/6 scale greeblies(maybe parts for weapons-sights and such) and any other "prop"-type items to fill out the pe sheets!!
Ron


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

You could always try various eyeglass screws. Those things are very tiny and could simulate the needed screws.

MBZ


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> You could always try various eyeglass screws. Those things are very tiny and could simulate the needed screws.
> 
> MBZ


Excellent! :thumbsup: Thanks.


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## rondenning (Jul 29, 2008)

Hopefully this will happen. 
Pe brain complete, seems like it would be soooooo much easier to paint and light.
The top brain spinner and square chest light bezel(the always on square lghts) could be done in shiny stainless, along with some shiny washer type pieces to go around the base of the programming bay switches. The piece for the two blinking "heartbeat" lights and the bottom piece for the twelve blinking lights would also be easier to paint and glue on than it would be to mask and paint, you could add two pieces to put on the sides of the programming bay tape reel, of course the radar "ears", knee hinges, power pack parts, and some claw detailing such as a round piece to go on over the back of the claws and fit inside the two claw retainer halves to eliminate the inside front seam as well as a washer type piece to go on over the front of the claw retainer halves to eliminate the front seam there, as well as new torso vent screens, and seam-hider pieces for the tread sections front and back- such as four rectangles to cover front and back upper tread sections, and then larger pieces to fit the front and rear lower tread sections between the wheels and treads including new soilsampler door cover that fits tightly.
Then again, I would be interested in a 1/6 scale set of J2 console pieces including radar and burroughs console panel fronts, computer panels, tape reels, etc.
Ron


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

I'll put my 2cents in here, Paul. I'd love to see a photo etch set for this kit. I love the suggestions made in the thread already. Particularly the screw heads for the shoulder hooks. 

I'd love to see a crown (in silver if possible), brain, antennae, torso vent mesh, and a silver bezel for the square programming buttons. 

I don't have my kit to hand yet, so I'm not sure how detailed the knee hinges are, or how dependant the structural integrity is on them, but there is some fine detail on the hinges that would lend itself to PE. Maybe even just a faux circlip and screw heads that could be glued on over the existing part if it hasn't been molded in.

Do the two chest lights have molded bezels? A ridged strip of PE that could be annealed and glued around the big Dialight Lenses would be cool too.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You might have to be careful with the knee hinges as those little pieces are all that holds up the whole top of the robot


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Ahhh, I wasn't sure if there was an internal support structure inside the legs or not. I guess Moebius wanted to keep the inside as empty as possible to allow for customising.

Funny thing about those knee hinges. They originally were articulated and in the scenes where the robot goes amuck and sends them off course you can see Bob May shuffling the treads across the floor. The weight of the treadsection and the knee plates in conjunction with the movement bruised and ripped up his shins really badly, so they put three bolts through each hinge and locked them off. 
If they wanted Bob moving the costume from then on, they used the 'Bermuda shorts' version with the treads disconnected and the weight of the upper costume supported on thick, wide suspenders that Bob wore connected to the waist plate. They just used camera angles that kept Bob's lower legs and feet out of the frame, mostly...


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

So has all this interest given Paul the motivation to go ahead and do it?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I think he is still researching it.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

actias said:


> So has all this interest given Paul the motivation to go ahead and do it?


Post #4 stated that I'll be doing it.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

What... were the clucking hens keeping you up at night?

Steve


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## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Any movement from Paul on this?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

It's under development.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

OzyMandias said:


> Ahhh, I wasn't sure if there was an internal support structure inside the legs or not. I guess Moebius wanted to keep the inside as empty as possible to allow for customising.
> 
> Funny thing about those knee hinges. They originally were articulated and in the scenes where the robot goes amuck and sends them off course you can see Bob May shuffling the treads across the floor. The weight of the treadsection and the knee plates in conjunction with the movement bruised and ripped up his shins really badly, so they put three bolts through each hinge and locked them off.
> If they wanted Bob moving the costume from then on, they used the 'Bermuda shorts' version with the treads disconnected and the weight of the upper costume supported on thick, wide suspenders that Bob wore connected to the waist plate. They just used camera angles that kept Bob's lower legs and feet out of the frame, mostly...


Learning all sorts of new about the Robot I grew up with- I remember that shuffle-walk and wondered why they did not do it more often...

Interested in see what you come up with for the Photo Etch- it is a wonderful model stock and you always find something to take it to the next level...


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## Zathros (Dec 21, 2000)

*I personally think the kits fine as it is, aside of the few engineering issues..I built mine right out of the box, with no bells or whistles, and I find its quite impressive as it is...but of course, its anyone's choice what they want to add.

Z*


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## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Zathros said:


> *I personally think the kits fine as it is, aside of the few engineering issues..I built mine right out of the box, with no bells or whistles, and I find its quite impressive as it is...but of course, its anyone's choice what they want to add.
> 
> Z*


I so agree with you Zathros, it is a beautifully engineered kit and believe it stands on its own as it. You did a beautiful job on yours love your color choices looks great.


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

I can't wait to build mine, but I will hold off until Paul announces what he is doing in the way of PE, and I am adding lights and sounds courtesy of the Voodoo Child Module from Randy. 
I may buy a second kit later and build it out of the box as a season 1 version. I did a similar thing with the Round 2/PL kit. My stand alone is coloured season 2/3 and my Smith and the Robot kit has them both in season 1 colours.


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

Hi Paul. You by chance have a rough idea when this might be available?


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Hey Paul, another suggestion for the PE set would be fold up light boxes for the chest area inside to separate the light effects. I've just scratch built one out of sheet styrene and it would be so much nicer to have boxes ready to go.


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## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

My Bubble Headed Booby has gone back in the box, till there is some progress on this.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*no rush*

Yep, he's box bound untill i hear one way or the other on updated parts


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

Hey Paul! Do you have an ETA on this? Just would like an idea of when the B9 can come out of the box. Thanks


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I am slowly putting mine together waiting on this. I am patient enough since I have other projects I am working on.


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## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Any word at all on this? Paul is usually pretty swift at getting these things on the street.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

It's mostly designed, but I'm not at all happy with my solution for the crown. That's being reworked ... but I don't know how long it will take.


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## actias (May 19, 2003)

Paul you could do what the full size B9 builders do. Make the crown blades seperate - with a tab at the bottom of each, which can be bent to a 45 degree angle. Then provide two etch discs. The blades get sandwiched in between the two discs. See pic.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Yes, that's one of the options I've looked at - unfortunately I'm working with 0.005" brass for this set (to get the definition in the triangular brain casing through holes, and the flexibility for the front panel light blocks) so handling that many small, flimsy pieces is a series of accidents waiting to happen.

I'll get it figured out.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Just made the announcement here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=4757798#post4757798


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