# Another Video on Power Taps



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

This is video comes from Trackmate.
Dan shows how to do power taps on sectional track


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Is there an optimal gauge wire to use? I have a roll of copper telephone wire, can I use this?


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

It's usable but a little light Dan.
Your phone wire is probably only 22G at best.
If you have nothing else and money's tight,use it,but if you can scrounge up something alittle more robust,it wouldn't hurt:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

Buy and extension cord on sale, pull the wire out I used 14 gauge wire on my layout.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

my track had 12g wire! but i ran unlimited.

but here is a suggestion or 2

place the track on a wet cloth, this helps to prevent any warping (I have a crappy iron)

once the wire is solder to the rails, I glue the wire to the track as well. this takes any stress off the solder joint


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

slotking said:


> my track had 12g wire! but i ran unlimited.
> 
> but here is a suggestion or 2
> 
> ...


Or use hot glue gun, I did that to hold the wire for me then soldered the tap to the rail.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Dan,i have probably 50 little short 18G solid core taps already pre-made.

I made them up for my track,but then went a differant way on taps.
I have no use for them now

They're roughly 2" long,all pre-tinned,if they'll do you any good,there yours.
They're identical to the one i show soldering in the soldering video.
Look them over,and you can have them if you want

You'll have to "L" bend them to solder to your rails,and if you put a hook in the other end,you can loop your wire feeds into the loop.
That way down the road if you decide to upgrade your wire feeds,you'd just have to run into the bottom loop of the soldered on jumper.
Rick


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Rick,
Not to take anything away from that great video, but I saw another method used which is really simple. Haven't done it myself yet, but that's only because my taps are already done.

Take a standard terminal track. Using a hobby knife, score a line along the edge of the track until you can easily snap off the side box. Leave the metal strips intact and bend them down under the track. There will only be three metal strips and you'll want to isolate the common one. On the underside of the track, cut the common strip between the two lanes, leaving the part that is already attached to the underside of the rail. Then connect your wires to those strips. Attaching your power wires to the metal strips is a lot easier than soldering to the small opening in the rail.

The way those metal strips are attached to the rails looks pretty flimsy, yet they seem to hold well.

Joe


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

now, why didn't I think of that? ! !
KISS


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Joe you just jogged the memory, i think somebody showed a technic along those lines here somewhere ,or talked about it on HT.
I remember somebody using spade connectors to attach right to the strips on the bottom of terminal tracks,after cutting the side connectors off.
I think they were bending the strips in 1/2 where the connector slid on.
Memories not as good as it used to be,so i could be totally out in left field,lol
But it's another option to think about that's for sure,attaching to the terminal tracks,it accomplish's the same thing,spread the power feed out:thumbsup:
Dan should have a few start/finish pieces to practice on,i sent him a bunch of old ones,to practice with,lol

I didn't have that option,on my track in the video Todd and i made,lol
I figured if Dan wanted the jumpers he could have them,that's why i offered them up,lol

I didn't make the video above,it came from Dan at Trackmate,i was just passing it on

Al was it you,who was using female spade connectors?
I know somebody has mentioned using them

Rick


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

I did that with my 1st track, I drilled holes in the tongues and use nut bolts to hold the wires.

it seem the soldering was just as easy.

also saw pics where the drill 2 holes next to the rail, cut a slot into the rail and hook the wire over the rail, then solder & sand flush.

so basically wire is on they very well and not coming lose


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Now that's probably the simplest way to go ,good tip Mike.:thumbsup:

For guys where solderings not an option,the nut/bolt idea is something to think about.


I did send Dan a couple of demo style taps,and one was Scott's way,the slotted rail and double hole version.:thumbsup:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Got it!*



Hornet said:


> Joe you just jogged the memory, i think somebody showed a technic along those lines here somewhere ,or talked about it on HT.
> I remember somebody using spade connectors to attach right to the strips on the bottom of terminal tracks,after cutting the side connectors off.
> I think they were bending the strips in 1/2 where the connector slid on.
> Memories not as good as it used to be,so i could be totally out in left field,lol
> ...


Jeez! Took me a while. It was "Crimnick". Havent heard from Crimmy in a while. Wunner if he's OK?

We'll definately have to add him to the "what ever happened to so and so" list this year.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,ain't nothing wrong with your memory Bill:thumbsup:
As soon as i seen Crimmicks name,the light's came on
You're right he hasn't posted anything in a long time.
I wonder how he is too
Rick


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Rick, 

I PM'ed him for the "halibut".


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

thanks for the offer hornet! I don't want to trouble you, you've been so helpful already!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Dan you've been no problem.
It's for our younger generation,and i personally think you're doing a great thing by helping the kids :thumbsup::thumbsup:.

We had a good slotcar program at my junior high school,way back in the 70's,and helping the younger generation,is only payback:wave::thumbsup:.

The offer still stands,if you figure the little jumpers will do you any good,i'll fire them your way.
Rick


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Using the power tap methods of soldering or hooking the rails would be easier for positive track polarity which is driver's side rail in direction of travel. 
Will using the terminal track tabs cause a negative wired track if the power
tabs are on the passenger side?


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

good question, i'd like to be able to swap directions, would this be a problem?


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Reversing direction of travel would be accomplished by using an additional switch.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Dyno Dom said:


> Using the power tap methods of soldering or hooking the rails would be easier for positive track polarity which is driver's side rail in direction of travel.
> Will using the terminal track tabs cause a negative wired track if the power
> tabs are on the passenger side?


The key to using a terminal track is you must cut the common connection so that you can wire all four rails individually. Once all four rails have their own "metal strip", you can wire it any way you desire.

Joe


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Dan,are you planning to wire it for brakes,or run electronic controllers.

If not,the easiest way,is just switch the power feed.

A cheap and easy way,is wire your wallwarts with an old 2 wire lamp style cord,that only has 2 prongs.
You might have to grind the one lug slightly smaller.
Then to switch direction,you just flip the plug and re-plug it in the other way.

I dug around in my storage shed,i have ( 2 ) short 18G lamp cords that have had the lug trimmed,and i found about 120 ft of old 16G extension cords,with the ends cut-off.
The extension cords vary in length,from about 30ft on down,and there's probably more then 120ft,i didn't unwind it all
You'll have to strip it,as that's work,but 16G and (18G) lamp cords are coming your way.
I have no use for the cords.
Rick


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

hold off Hornet. PM me your ph#


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

PM sent.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks Hornet got it all. I'm just starting to work on the power taps. Any Suggestions on how many I put on?


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

How many pieces of track Dan.

The general rule is for every 10 track connections you want to add a jumper,but that's only a general rule:thumbsup:.
Rick


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

Dan,

I have 6 taps in my 96 section layout, one every 16th section. The power is very solid all the way around. 

Rob


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Well, I want this to be bulletproof, so every connection it is... LoL I'd have to count the track sections. Just a minute...

28 connections. ok, 4 or 7? LoL I've been thinking of building a second table to connect to this one, I have a second door and a line on a set of Identical table legs. I was thinking of having the left side of the track wired & soldered together, but detachable. That way they could just run the small track, or double the length. What do you think? What would be best (easiest) for connecting the power to both tables?


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

It's nice to have your jumper tracks laying flat on the table.
Less chance of track flex,that could break your solder joints.

Usually you want to have your jumpers at the start of a straight,or in the middle of a straight.

If it was me i'd do 4 jumper tracks,and put them in the straights.

You do have a start on one jumper track, it's not in an ideal spot,but it's there,and i'd wire it up along with the other taps.

Any cheap electrical plug will work to join your 2 table pieces wiring.

I've seen table joints done using cheap extension cords and a matching plug receptacle.

If you use 3 prong household electrical connectors they're very simple,and easy to plug-in and unplug.
The only downside is if the table connections are out in the open, an external electrical cord could be plugged in by accident.
If you build a small cover or use something like an outdoor covered receptacle,to keep little fingers away,you shouldn't have much problem with an external cord accidently being plugged in to your wiring:thumbsup:

Here's hoping you get some more ideas for your wiring,mine aren't nessarily the best,just ones off the top of my head.

The more ideas/tips you get,the better.
It's always nice to have several options/tips to look at,then pick the one that suits your situation the best:thumbsup:.
Rick


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

you might also look at automotive tail light connectors. heavy gauge wire an can only be plugged in one way. should only need one set for your track. they they will just have to hang down a little bit.

Rob


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Great tip Rob:thumbsup:
Better then an extension cord connection that could be mis-used

Rick


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