# Toro(I think) snow blower - surges and dies under load.



## justchad (Jan 2, 2014)

Hey guys and gals, 
I believe its a toro snow blower but not 100% 
I changed the plug and it starts and runs, but the RPMs surge up and down non stop, and it dies under a load. I sprayed the lines (fuel and primer) with gumout to check for leaks and did hear anything. If I keep pumping on the primer the blower runs under load. That's about as far as I've gotten, any thoughts and suggestions?
I was going to post a link to a youtube vid I made here to show what was going on but it looks like I can't till I make 5 posts, I will add the vid link when I can.


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## justchad (Jan 2, 2014)

For now if you go to youtube and add /watch?v=hWSUopwb5_E it should get you to the video


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

What you have, is a Toro S-200. Seems like a carb. rebuild is in order. However, there is a cheat that may work for you, which we used in crunch times to get people out the door with no guaranty but an inexpensive bill and it working.

To try and cheat a rebuild, do this:
One at a time, and noting which screw is which (one usually has serrations cut in the head), NOTE THE STARTING POINT, and COUNTING THE turns, turn each mixture screw (they stick out the lower left side of the carb) inward (CW) slowly until they stop. DO NOT FORCE THEM TIGHT! Write the turn count down and remove both screws keeping them respectful as they're different.

Then, pump the primer until fuel squirts out the screw holes (usually only will pump out the rearward (high speed) one. THEN, repeat this a few times: push and hold the primer in, place your finger over the rear screw hole to seal it up, and release the primer, remove finger, depress primer, etc..

This helps to purge any crap from the jet areas.

Ensure the screw tips are clean, and re-insert to previous positions.

Test run.

If it still dies out, turn the rear screw out 1/8 (CCW) turn, and re-test. Repeat until it either runs right, or not in which case a rebuild is definitely in order.


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## justchad (Jan 2, 2014)

Awesome thanks! will give it as shot and report back! 



paulr44 said:


> To try and cheat a rebuild, do this:
> One at a time, and noting which screw is which (one usually has serrations cut in the head), NOTE THE STARTING POINT, and COUNTING THE turns, turn each mixture screw (they stick out the lower left side of the carb) inward (CW) slowly until they stop. DO NOT FORCE THEM TIGHT! Write the turn count down and remove both screws keeping them respectful as they're different.
> 
> Then, pump the primer until fuel squirts out the screw holes (usually only will pump out the rearward (high speed) one. THEN, repeat this a few times: push and hold the primer in, place your finger over the rear screw hole to seal it up, and release the primer, remove finger, depress primer, etc..
> ...


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

paulr44 said:


> To try and cheat a rebuild, do this:
> One at a time, and noting which screw is which (one usually has serrations cut in the head), NOTE THE STARTING POINT, and COUNTING THE turns, turn each mixture screw (they stick out the lower left side of the carb) inward (CW) slowly until they stop. DO NOT FORCE THEM TIGHT! Write the turn count down and remove both screws keeping them respectful as they're different.
> 
> Then, pump the primer until fuel squirts out the screw holes (usually only will pump out the rearward (high speed) one. THEN, repeat this a few times: push and hold the primer in, place your finger over the rear screw hole to seal it up, and release the primer, remove finger, depress primer, etc..
> ...


Thanks Paul, I learned something NEW today !!!


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

We had American Cyanamid as a customer back in the 80's, they had cobblestone walkways and had like 2 dozen S-200 units, so between them and the fact that most all single-stage paddle units were Tecumseh 2-strokes with diaphragm carbs. we got plenty of experience on 'em.


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