# Return of the J-2 Project



## Robert Hargrave

Okay I've pulled my Polar Lights Jupiter-2 kit back out of the closet, and have decided to start tinkering with it again. Now a new propblem has come up. I joined "mage shack" so I could post photos to the hobby talk page, but I have tried several different ways to do that and none have worked. Okay guy's what am I doing wrong? I tried loading the URL from the code box, next I loadaed the UBB from the code box, nothing again. I copied the link from next to the photo I wished to post, no luck again! What is this computer goof doing wrong????????


----------



## Brent Gair

Seems to be giving a couple of folks trouble.

Here's what I do:

1)Go to the Imageshack page and hit the "BROWSE" button. That will open up the window to acces the image on your computer (obviously, you 've gotten that far so this is for the benefit of others).

2)Select the image you want (click or double click...depending).

3)Hit the "HOST IT!" Button

4)Here's probably where people are going wrong. Go the box that says, "Hot link for forums (1)" Copy that link.

5)Paste that link into your message. Don't try to do any other formatting. It's already formatted. Treat it just like a piece of text! It's a simple copy-and-paste.

I think the system is almost too easy. People (myself included) assumed there had to be more to it...but there isn't. Just copy and paste the link and the image will appear. 



EDIT:

Let me add this link to the ImageShack main page. You can do everything on this page. You can register IF YOU WANT and they will store a library of your images. However, that slightly complicates things. By using the link below, you can do everything required to host an image on a forum...no registration is required. You only have to register if you want to store a library of your links and images for future use (and it's still free). After you've got the hang of posting single images, you can register and build and image library:


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

Looking forward to your pictures and updates Robert.


----------



## ham1963

I will secound that also


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I has been along time since a update! Be glad to see the pictures.


----------



## bert model maker

i to am looking forward to seeing more Robert.


----------



## woof359

*Jupiter 2 project*

good man, the J2 work has slowed way down wiht fewer and fewer afordable kits being avalible. I have high hopes RC looks at past sale and does a limited run so I can stock up on a few more.The martian ship looking good, or i as I call mine the bar of soap.


----------



## woof359

*picture*

sorry about the picture being so big, old file, didnt know how big it was.


----------



## StarshipClass

^^Can you crop the image to more closely show what you're trying to emphasize in that view and give us with limited screens enough room to read all the text?


----------



## Y3a

Uh-Oh... Looks like a looner 2 foot job's (con)Fusion Core to me.


----------



## woof359

*2 footer*

not only is it the fusion cage form a Lunar 2 footer, the light pattern is programable and its turned on and off by remote, no more ugly switches spoiling the hull.


----------



## bert model maker

looks good chuck, can you e mail me some pics of your jupiter 2 ?
Bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Re: Return J-2 Project*

Okay I finially figured out how this thing works, well at least how to make it work. At the end of last nights work I have added water to the storage tank using a piece of clear sheet styrene, then spreading Matte Medium with a dab of Blue Acrylic Tube Paint added to color it. I've built one control panel for the power center behind the elevator. And last I'm reworking the landing gear, I've removed all the cast on steps, cleaned up the seams and applied 2 coats of putty to them. I've measured and cut some .010 sheet styrene and cemented it to the landing area and the back of the leg to cover damage done when removing the steps.
http://img225.echo.cx/img225/947/j2a2da.jpg
http://img153.echo.cx/img153/9320/j2b5vb.jpg


----------



## MonsterModelMan

Great Job so far! 

Have you considered a bathroom?

I've scratch built a bathroom with shower stall, sink and toilet in mine.., which is packed away in storage for the moment. I also cut in and constructed the landing gear walls so I can have the fusion light kit mounted with a switch.

It looks neat looking from the ground up under the ship from the landing gear point of view.

This project is really cool...just wish I had more time to put in on mine.
Its alot bigger of a project than I at first imagined but worth the efforts.

Keep up the GREAT work and keep the pics coming!

MMM


----------



## Robert Hargrave

The bathroom is the second section to the right of the flight deck, you can see the shower stall spray just over the wall of the first stateroom. with the entry door just above that, its standing partically open.


----------



## lastguardian

Here are some views of my in-progress J2, which I woefully have neglected of late:







The pilot's seat is scratch built, as are a lot of the bulkheads and other details. The figures are Plastruct 1/60 scale. The empty space behind the 'General Alarm' housing will hold the disassembled chariot (which I derived from the PL cyclops/chariot kit, and is already prepared).

I haven't worked on this project in a while, but I'll get back to it one of these days... 

Shane


----------



## lastguardian

And speaking of the PL cyclops/chariot kit, here's a Judy figure I made for it:



It's always bothered me that the elder Miss Robinson was missing from the kit, so I took a spare Maureen, cut her apart and repositioned her, and did a little resculpting with Magic Sculp epoxy putty (great stuff!). She's positioned to lie back against the rocks while looking up at the monster.

Much better! 

Shane


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

Excellent job Shane:thumbsup:


----------



## woof359

*chariot kit*

always bothered me the chariot had no clear windows, I meanm what can 6 little seats and some clear styrne cost?Judy looks good Shane.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*J-2 Update*

Made some progress last night on the project. I installed the back side of the rear landing gear well entry/exit hatch. Attached the power room control panels to the bulkhead. Then I installed some of the elevator safety rings, and finished making modifications to the rear landing gear leg. I purchased a set of the after market landing pads for modifying the landing legs, and its turning into 3 times the project I thought it would. I don't like the look of the cast on steps, so I'm removing them and making new ones out of sheet styrene. Which requires a ton of cutting and scraping, to get the Mfg. ones off. It also leaves the back of the leg interior cut up, that's the reason for the piece of styrene back there to hide the damage. I'm going to cut off the Mfg. telescoping leg and only use the PVC boot section, I'll make a new pipe out of styrene rod, and run a pin from the pipe, through the boot and into the landing pad to connect them all together. Strength isn't an issue here, as the ship already weights almost a pound, and I haven't made it to the upper level yet. So I'll have to make a piece that the fusion core will sit on to support the model for display.
http://img98.echo.cx/img98/2315/j2c6an.jpg


----------



## Steve244

Them's some nice J2's.

Woof359: would you please edit out your pic. It's giving me a headache scrolling horizontally.


----------



## StarshipClass

^^ ditto here, Woof359!

Excellent work, Shane! You're quite the sculptor!


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I forgot how impressive it was, Robert. :thumbsup:


----------



## starmanmm

Wolf just like those big photos!! :tongue:


----------



## MonsterModelMan

lastguardian said:


> And speaking of the PL cyclops/chariot kit, here's a Judy figure I made for it:
> 
> 
> 
> It's always bothered me that the elder Miss Robinson was missing from the kit, so I took a spare Maureen, cut her apart and repositioned her, and did a little resculpting with Magic Sculp epoxy putty (great stuff!). She's positioned to lie back against the rocks while looking up at the monster.
> 
> Much better!
> 
> Shane


Shane,

That is some great stuff! And I just checked your website...is there a way to get copies of any of your books? I love the storyline of ICE. Sounds great!

MMM


----------



## lastguardian

MonsterModelMan said:


> Shane, that is some great stuff! And I just checked your website...is there a way to get copies of any of your books? I love the storyline of ICE. Sounds great! MMM


Thanks! _ICE_ was a lot of fun to write -- I've been an Apollo nut since before those missions flew, and this is the Apollo novel I've always wanted to write. You can order my books at www.amazon.com, Barnes and Noble.com, and in bookstores all over. 

Shane


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Your J-2 interior is also looking very good, really like the recessed port hole. How did you manage that???


----------



## lastguardian

I used a razor saw to cut a section from a plastic Plastruct cone, then glued it to the wall piece. I then drilled an opening into the wall from the other side and filed and sanded it to conform to the cone. 





What's cool is that the cone sits right up against the outer hull (with space for a window glass to be inserted).

Shane


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thanks.... That's a trick I'll have to give a try.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Shane,
Really good looking J2! Are you going to have the Robot,also? 
Lloyd


----------



## lastguardian

Lloyd Collins said:


> Shane, really good looking J2! Are you going to have the Robot,also?


Thanks!  As for the robot, I don't know -- not unless I can manage to make one in 1/60 scale.

Shane


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I started my J2, but first want to finish the other models I have started. I plan to put lights in mine,and I was thinking if I can do it, have the robot lit. What I plan to do is glue the top half together, and screw the bottom to it. That way I can put batteries in the lower deck, and just look is the windows of the upper deck. I will have Don, John, smith, and the Robot. I have a lot of work to do on it, so maybe before I die.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*J-2 Project Update*

I've started installing the elevator cage and support rods that sit on each side of the elevator entry door. It looks good, but the support rods are installed using super glue because I don't have a resistance soldiering unit. Believe me you do not want to ride this elevator, it would never pass inspection... I have a couple more rings to install but these are open on the end and require measuring and cutting before they are put in place. Also in the photo is the first completed landing leg. I have made several changes in the look of the gear. Since it will not be a load bearing part I'm using 1/8th inch styrene rod for the main support pipe, then I've placed a coupler ring at the base where it attaches to the PVC boot. At he top I added a piece of 3/16ths styrene tube to give it the look of a telescoping unit. To connect the 1/8th inch rod to he PVC boot and the landing base. I drilled into the end of the rod, then attached the boot to the base, and when it was dry drilled through the boot and the base piece, then inserted a .033 section of brass rod through all 3 and cemented with ACC. To attach this section to the leg I drilled into the PVC coupler and the end of the landing leg and inserted another section of .033 brass rod to connect them together. Soon paint and only 2 more to modify.
http://img140.echo.cx/img140/4338/j2d4bu.jpg


----------



## Steve244

I'll say it looks good. That's a lot of saw-er-styrene-dust in the work area...


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Yeah, the maid hasen't been around for a couple of months..... If I posted a pic of the table you'd be horrified, and also wonder how I can find anything when working....


----------



## starmanmm

For those that has not seen my J2 Diorama....


http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/starmanmmm/album?.dir=/3e62

This was the first project that I had done in over 20 years.

Hey Steve244, missed you at Wonderfest!


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Robert, that is some fine work you are doing. How much to finish the lower deck?

Starmanmm, really nice looking diorama!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Okay I started adding the upper set of rings to the elevator cage, and I think it looks awsome... It turned out a lot better than I thought it was going to. There are several small wall sections to add yet, then a lot of little odds and ends to add some clutter and equipment type stuff, also checking the RR hobby catalog looking for some fire extinguishers. And last the forward view ports to figure out.
http://img99.echo.cx/img99/9493/j2e3fp.jpg


----------



## Cappy D

Glad to see the J2 project back in action! You do awesome work.

- Cappy D


----------



## Robert Hargrave

For fathers day I made a raid on the local Michael's store doing a seek and destroy mission through all their isles for odds and end's to finish up the lower level on my J-2 project. Walked out with several different types of shaped items to turn into who knows what, but I still have lots of empty unused space in the outer ring of the lower deck to fill. While I was digging around I also found my reactor unit there from the episode where the Robinson's made a life boat to return to earth in, but Dr. Smith and Will end up taking a ride around the planet instead. Who'd a thunk Michael's would have nuclear fusion materials in isle 5. The final wall units have been made and are awaiting a second coat of paint, I'd say another 2 weeks and the lower level will be completed. I'm already looking at the upper and piecing together a plan to start building it. First thing on my build list, the wall dividers that came with the kit will be used, with some modifications of course. Like I did on the lower level, I'm going to laminate pieces of styrene to each side and attach one to the back of the original wall to widen them and extend them back further. The original part will be used to cut and match the curved face. This will give the model thicker more realistic walls. Also many of the original interior wall panels will be used, but again with many modifications. But that's all stuff for later, gotta get the basement finished first.


----------



## woof359

*good man*

Michael's is a greta place to pick up supplies and tools, I try an go at least every other month just to browse, mostly for the wooden bases.


----------



## g_xii

lastguardian said:


> I used a razor saw to cut a section from a plastic Plastruct cone, then glued it to the wall piece. I then drilled an opening into the wall from the other side and filed and sanded it to conform to the cone.


Excellent idea -- I must get back to working on mine one day! I have about six of them sitting here, all about 2/3 finished! Pity I did not buy more of the lighting kits for them, though... those core lights are going for a lot of money these days!

--Henry


----------



## beck

Starmanmm , that's an outstanding diorama !! great work .
hb


----------



## starmanmm

Thanks!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Re: J-2 Update*

Work continues on completing the lower level. All the remaining walls and partitions have been put up, that includes the elevator. Around the outer ring I added 10 red globes these are fuel tanks for the guidance and maneuvering thrusters located around the hull, now to build the thrusters, they will be (the gray objects around the edge of the hull). A mirror has finally been built for the bathroom wall using .010 styrene and some bare metal foil. The hole in the floor is in the process of being filled with a small disk of .010 styrene and using some white decals to model the 4 light boxes in the floor. And last the strange looking entry way trellis things to the galley are under construction, but greatly modified (I'm just going for the feel of the things, not a match). Some more photos will be added when I get this stuff all installed.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*J-2 Lower Level DONE!!!*

The lower level is almost complete, a couple of touch up's to do and I can move on to the upper level work. So here are 3 photo's of the completed lower level interior. The view port frames are just sitting there because I cannot install the windows yet, with all the work done on the kit, the hull paint has had many scratches and scuff marks put on it. And requires a new coat of paint, so the uncut brackets are just sitting in place for the photo's. I am surprised at how close to my original design I was able to stay, but if I were to attempt this again there are some things I would change. #1 I would only cut out the rear landing well opening where the entry/exit door is. That way I wouldn't have that nasty hole in the floor of the first state room next to the flight deck. #2 I would add the angled wall in the galley, that I thought there wouldn't be enough room for. #3 I'd cut off 4 feet of the right hand side of the flight deck control room, and both end counters of the lab to better match the original design of the studio set, again I thought it couldn't be done with the model, but after building it there is. And if I did build another I still don't think I'd add the Space Pod. Enjoy the photo's.
http://img100.echo.cx/img100/8739/j2f7uw.jpg
http://img15.echo.cx/img15/9872/j2e1xf.jpg
http://img101.echo.cx/img101/4853/j2g4ox.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

in the words of everybody loves raymonds, dad " HOLY CRAP" what a magnificent work of art, genius etc.. I know the major headaches i have had just detailing the lower deck and upper too, but i must say Robert, you have created a whole new craft, what you could do with a larger jupiter 2 would be mind boggleing, oopps spelled that wrong i think but just celebrating my 50th birthday tonight and i am a bit tipsey i thinnk. yep i am lol you have got a masterpiece there and i must say, i am very impressed with the qaulity ooppss quality of your work great job and a very inspireing model you are creating.
Bert


----------



## The Batman

model maker said:


> in the words of everybody loves raymonds, dad " HOLY CRAP" what a magnificent work of art, genius etc.. I know the major headaches i have had just detailing the lower deck and upper too, but i must say Robert, you have created a whole new craft, what you could do with a larger jupiter 2 would be mind boggleing, oopps spelled that wrong i think but just celebrating my 50th birthday tonight and i am a bit tipsey i thinnk. yep i am lol you have got a masterpiece there and i must say, i am very impressed with the qaulity ooppss quality of your work great job and a very inspireing model you are creating.
> Bert


*Hic... Hic.... Hic... Burp!*

- GJS :drunk: 

By the Way, Happy 50th, Bert! :hat:


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

That is one fantastice job Robert. I say go ahead and add the Space Pod Bay


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thank's to all for the kind words. Bert most happiest of Birthdays, one more year all I'll be joining you, where did all the time go. As for what could I do with a larger model, spend 10 times as much on styrene.... Dr. Pretorious if I added the Pod bay, where would I put the bathroom????


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

You would have to use a portapoty


----------



## Y3a

I thought you just lifted up the apolstered seat in the pod and there was one...


----------



## woof359

*air lock*

no air lock and no locker for escape space suits? the pod reminds me of a diving bell in an old George Reeves Superman episode, what if it sprang a leak?

wadda you mean it was just aTv show??????


----------



## Cappy D

Absolutely beautiful work.
-Cappy D


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Hitting the floor*

Now with the lower level basically finished, except for a few small items. Its time to move upstairs. First target is the upper floor base. To start when I built the lower level walls I included the spokes height into the height of the wall units, so now I will sand the spokes off to have a smooth ceiling. Also since I moved several wall around they no longer line up. Moving to the upper side of the floor, those cast on launch seats have to go, also I have to relocate the elevator and ladder locations and open the floor in those areas. Wait till you see that new configuration. Then comes the flight control panels, those will stay with many changes, the computer boxes on top will be removed and new ones made. Biggest change I think I'm going to have to widen the panels, not 100% sure on that point yet. And while I'm working on the floor, I'm also going to tear into the Astrogator unit. Removing all the cast on parts, cutting a quater inch or so off the base (its to tall), and correcting the layout to 8 spokes from the cast on 6. That will keep me busy for a couple of weeks.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Oh, a PS to that last post. I forgot to mention I was going to add some more styrene sheet to the upper level floor to make it a complete circle, and get rid of those cut out areas that were there just as a mounting guide.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

It has been an honor to see your great work on the Jupiter II. I am looking forward to the surprises you have for us on the upper deck!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thanks Lloyd. Well the spokes and the computer units are now out of the way, took one hour of sanding with a sanding block, and some corse sandpaper. Will go back later with a fine grade sandpaper to smooth it all out. Next out with the couches, the main hatch guides on the floor and start drilling the elevator and ladder openings. For right now I'm leaving the elevator ring in place, I'll photograph the floor after I finish removing all the unwanted parts, and the openings are cut out, just to show how far off the two elevators are. The fun part is going to be cutting out the .060 sheet styrene to fill in the floor, thats a problem for the weekend. Later.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*J-2 Project Update*

After a couple nights tinkering with the upper floor here is a photo of some of the rework. Computer boxes from the top of the flight control panel are gone, the launch chairs are gone, the guides for the air lock are gone and the ribs on the astrogator are gone. I discovered when I went to start cutting out the filler pieces for the extension of the floor ring I was out of .060 sheet styrene, looks like I'm going to the hobby shop this weekend. And you can see the astrogator with the figure standing next to it, in the show the astrogator came up to their waist, this unit is up to the figures chest. And when placed into the suspended animation tube the figure is the correct height, so I'm going to cut down the astrogator. Last if you look behind and to the side of the figure, you'll see the elevator ring, the dark circle is the new and corrected position to get both the lower and upper units to line up.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9007/j2l8on.jpg


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*J-2 Update*

Going to the hobby shop this afternoon to get my styrene, so this morning I did some work to finish up the scale drawing for the upper deck. As with the drawing of the lower deck the flight deck is at the bottom of the photo, and the descriptions will continue clockwise around the drawing. On the flight deck you have The pilots and copilots navigation, thruster and telemetry control panels. Next is the radio and video receiver systems, behind that unit are storage areas for emergency gear and weapons locker. Next is the flight deck view port, and main hatch and air lock. The next section is the main circuit boards, guidance systems and flight recorder and atomic clock. Behind these panels is the storage area for the chariot. The next section contains the ladder to the lower level, a slave panel for the pressure control system, behind this area is storage lockers, space suits, a work shop, upper level heating and cooling systems, and a lavatory. The next section contains the elevator between the upper and lower levels, and the hatch leading to the main reactor (the main and secondary reactors are connected to the drive motors, and power generating systems by the power core trunk, it run from the reactor through the floor and down into the power control room on the lower level), and secondary power generation reactor and support systems. Behind this area is more storage. The next three areas are the suspended animation tubes and their control systems located behind the walls. Last in the center of the room is the Astrogator system

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6997/j2n3fd.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

Robert, your creativity and work on this J-2 is outstanding !! I think you have completley redesigned the entire model, have you thought about scratch building a larger jupiter 2 inside and out ? that would be something to see !!! happy 4th of july.
Bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Well Bert, have thought about it. The inside I could most likely do, but building the exterior, never happen flunked geom, geomm, geomeratary,,shoot can't even spell it let alone do it.....Just darn happy I have one Jupiter 2 under destruction, fulfilling on childhood wish 30+ years later


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*New J-2 Update*

Yesterday I removed the control consols from the flight control panel assembly, using a small fishtailed router bit, I cut out the interior part of the panels using their edge as my guide. The openings were squared up using a flat and a triangular hobby files (the triangular one was to get good sharp corners). I then installed the two sections of .060 styrene to fill in the gaps around the outer part of the main floor. Using the main floor as my guide I set it on the sheet of .060 styrene and marked the inner edge and two sides of each section. I left a little extra on the ends just to be safe and get a good fit. I then took the flight control section to mark the outer part of the ring (its just wide enough to reach across the opening). I then took an X-acto knife with a #11 blade and a steel ruler I cut the sides of the plug off first, then using the floor unit as my guide, I made several light cuts on the inner ring till I had a good guide line, then increased the pressure of the cuts, so I wouldn't damage the floor unit. I used the flight control section of the main floor to do the same for the outer ring section. Then I set the unit on a sheet of glass with wax paper under it, I cemented the outer rings in place, along with pieces to fill in the flight couch locations. I still have some touch ups to do like add a strip of styrene along the edge of the flight consol to get a toe kick appearance, and box in the control panels, plug all the holes for the wall unit pins in the floor, drill the elevator and ladder openings. Then start slapping on the filler putty, all for another day....

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/3601/j2o8ly.jpg


----------



## veedubb67

Truly amazing work. This is better than reality TV. Can't wait to see what's next!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Update J-2 Project*

Last night I finished up most of the work on the Astrogator table, over the last 3 days I have been making the 8 fins needed to go around the base of the table (these fins do not match the look of the TV shows unit, but do give the feel). Each one is made from a piece of .040 x .250 strip styrene, measurements were cut into the plastic with caliper's, then cuts were made using a chopper. Finish work was done with files and then each piece was scrapped clean with an X-acto knife. The ring around the base was made using a strip of .015 x .060 styrene. There are 2 levels on the modeled Astrogator top, but the TV show unit had only 1, so I sanded off 1 of the levels then filed it smooth. I stall have the upper fins to install, and some modifications to be made to the interior part that goes under the glass dome. Also in the photo you can see the toe kick installed on the edge of the control panel. Still more work to be done there also.

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8416/j2p3cv.jpg


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Last night saw little work completed. I filed down the newly installed toe kicks on the control panels. Now I have to make a sanding block using a piece of square balsa wood and some double stick tape to smooth the control panel face and the toe kick. I also attached the fins for the top of the Astrogater unit, these will be gently filed down today to form the angled edges (right now they are just oblong pieces of .040 x .060 styrene strips). Also I made some modifications to the central control feature of the Astrogator, using a flat file and a X-acto #11 blade I filed down and reshaped the greatly oversized disk on top of the Astrogator, trying to make it look more like the TV version. The shaft that attaches it to the Astrogator will be cut away and replaced with a piece of brass wire, which will run through the disk and mounted to the central unit, the top end will be shaped to form a new bubble on the top of the disk. I also wrapped a section of .015 x .188 strip styrene around the central control to improve the look of the factory made piece, and make it look more like the TV unit. My work isn't a true replica of the TV Astrogator unit, but when you see it you will easily recognize what it is, in this small scale it is hard to match all the different angles the fins had on the original unit, but its okay.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

The astrogator remodeling is complete, and a photo is posted showing an original unit unmodified, and the new improved unit side by side. Along with the other modifications mentioned in other posts, the things I have done are #1-I wet sanded the base of the glass bubble with a very fine grade sand paper to shorten it some for a better look, and I also made a control panel from strip styrene and brass wire. next project is painting the unit.

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/2185/j2q7po.jpg


----------



## woof359

*legs*

i like what you did to do away with that darn seam down the center of the legs, i tried and tried to fill mine in and i have done dozen, there getting better but you can still see it if you look.


----------



## bert model maker

looking fantastic Robert !


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Under Construction Again...*

The Jupiter 2 project has a little new life to it today. I've marked a new border line around the elevator cage opening in the floor of the upper level. I'll widen the original opening a little, then add a filler piece of .060 styrene to cover the opening. Trying to match the elevator openings up has turned into a task I'm going to pass on, I'll just build a standing control panel and make it look like the elevator is upstairs instead. At the same time I'm cutting off the sprue pins I made and cemented into the mounting holes in the floor for the kit walls. Also adding styrene strips to the inside of the control panel openings I made, to form inset boxes for the new panels to go into. Give it a quick rough sanding, then spread half a tube of filler putty over all the joints and gaps and do the final sanding and the floor will be ready to paint. After adding the extensions to the floor to make it a full circle, when I attached the upper saucer section I noticed I had a small gap where the saucers join. I'm also going to have to go around the outside area of the floor and using a sanding block shave off some of the outer part of the ring to get the saucer sections to fit together properly again.


----------



## bert model maker

hi robert, i finished my jupiter 2 and found that the hulls won't close all the way without a gap when i have some time i think i need to sand the upper deck edges so the hulls will close tight or at least without a gap, then i can take some pictures when it looks just right.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Mud on the floors*

All the pins from the sprue plugs used to fill in the mounting holes for the kit wall sections in the floor, have been cut away and sanded. The elevator opening has been plugged, then I added strips of .020 x .080 styrene around the inside edges of the openings I cut in the main control panel. This sharpened the edges and also gives me a mounting lip when I go to add the panel face. Next I used a sanding block and removed the raised ring where the original elevator was to be placed and the ring for mounting the Astrogator. The last task for yesterday was applying body filler to all the areas where there were joint lines, I used a scrap piece of styrene as a squeegee to spread it out, then let it dry real good and sand it smooth tonight. 


http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/8383/j2u5pt.jpg


----------



## Lloyd Collins

The work you did on the lower deck, was fantastic, and I am glad to see your upper deck work.


----------



## veedubb67

Wow! That's a ton of putty! Keep us posted.


----------



## bert model maker

Robert, how are your hull halves fitting together ? with my lower deck in place the top hull sits high in spots, i think the front and rear upper deck floor ends may be touching somewhere but i just can't see exactly where. my upper deck walls are not contacting anything on the upper hull, maybe i need to sand the upper deck edges. I just wish i knew where to sand and how much.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

As for the putty, it looks like a lot but after half an hour of sanding with a sanding block, there is very little left and I have a spot or two to touch up other than that I now have a one piece upper deck. Bert, My upper floor seems to be hitting the top of the saucer near the back side, and again using the sanding block I'll start there and just keep testing the fit as I go.


----------



## bert model maker

let me know what you find, i was trying to look at the front half but can't see anyting when the hull is in place


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Bert, without knowing how the interior of you kit is set up, I can't point to any sure fix for your gap problem. With my entire lower level being scratch built, and trying to stay in scale (I don't always maintain that task). After I cut the hole in the upper level floor for the elevator, and aligned it over the lower level, when the upper saucer was set in place I had a gap along the right hand side towards the back. When to saucer was remover I could see the elevator ring had been pushed towards the left side a little, so I need to cut back the right rear portion of the upper deck to hopefully fix my gap. That aside I sprayed on the first coat of primer tonight, and all looks good, I had a section of the deck that for some reason the primer turned to a powder when I sprayed it on. I had this happed on a star trek kit some time back, so a little sanding and another coat of primer and all was fixed. All the added sections of styrene and the joints and seams that came with the instalation of these pieces are filled and turned out very well.


----------



## bert model maker

i think i will concentrate on sanding down the back part i was thinking the ribs on the underside of the upper deck my be sitting on the walls wrong but the upper deck walls don't touch the hull anywhere so it must be the deck edge touching the inside of the hulls i have been so busy at work that i haven't had time to take pictures but i have the weekend off so i think i will take those pictures this weekend once i fix the gap problem.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Upper deck ready for paint*

The upper level deck has been primed, all the joints look good, except for one gouge in the floor, that I can't figure where it came from. But a quick touch up and a sanding with fine grit sand paper will have the deck ready to be painted later tonight. I've been studying photos of the upper level to see where the two floor colors meet on the deck and gauging where to do my separation line on the model. Looks to be two or three feet in front of the suspended animation tubes, not to cut out my painting mask and find my interior paint bottles

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2320/j2v3jw.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

Robert the inner circle is exactly 5 3/16ths i had a real nitemarish time with this one trying to find the perfect mack that would leave a clean crisp circle. i think i redid it 15 times till i got it just right


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thanks Bert, I'll give that a try, I was just looking through old TV show photographs from lost in space and using those as my guide.


----------



## bert model maker

look on cults lis j2 page bob perovich bob nitsche and others show the floor circle steve 244 cut his circle out and you can see where the line is just in front of the freeze tubes and just touching the elevator ring. i had to measure for hours over and over because it looked right but when it got painted it was off center, i looked for cans of just the right size and they were off just enough to notice then 2 years later i found a small tupperware bowl that measured the exact diameter then had to weight it down so no paint overspray got underneath that happened a couple of times and it stripping and repainting time again, this time i got it just right and i sealed it with clear flat real good so that i wouldn't get scrape lines in it again.


----------



## starmanmm

I fudged the circle by using a cd as the template.  Covered over the lighter color with the cd and then painted the floor around it.

I was happy with the results.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

That's a good idea but just as I was getting ready to paint the outer ring with Armor Sand, I realized that on this project the elevator, and ladder have been moved forward. And the interior ring on the floor has to be smaller. So after reconfiguring the ring I applied the paint, and as always I had bleed under. I always have that problem when I don't use tape, for this I used a plastic ring from a wire spool that was 4 inches around. Now I get to go back and make a mask (using the wire spool as my template) out of frisket film, like I did on the lower level.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Astrogator finished*

After adding several details, and sanding down the height of the glass dome, painting and adding decals its finished and ready for operation.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4700/j2w6xb.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

looks GREAT robert !!!


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

Excellent as usual Robert.:thumbsup:


----------



## bert model maker

how much more do you still need to do until it is complete ?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Well Bert, the entire upper level still needs to be constructed. To speed things up I plan on using several of the original wall panels, with many modifications of course. Still have to finish the modifications to the other two landing legs, and also repaint the exterior hull, now that I discovered how good Automotive scratch repair paint works on model kits, see my B-47E project in military/aircraft fourm.


----------



## bert model maker

your jupiter 2 will really be something to see, i can't wait !


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Control panel computers*

Last night I made the 3 (I call them computer boxes) that sit on top of the main control panels on the upper level flight deck. These were built using 3 strips of .060 x .250 styrene laminated together, then I covered the sides and top with pieces of .010 sheet styrene cut larger than the original strips. These were trimmed down and then filed to smooth the joints and leave an overhang around the sides and top of the front area of the panel. The final dimensions are length .985 width (W/O overhang) .250 (With overhang) .313 height .200. After painting my set of Tango Papa control panel decals will fit into the face opening with a small gap around the edges and should look great. Tonight the main control panels and start figuring out how to build the wall divider panels I want.

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/8882/j2x9mb.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

outstanding Robert, OUTSTANDING !!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Great job!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

All panels are built and assembled, decals are in place and I stated the modifications to the devider wall panels. I started with cutting off the mounting pins and the tabs on the outer side of each wall used for guiding the next wall unit into place. Then I took an x-acto knife and scraped the curved face area smooth removing the mold line and flattening the hump along this line. The face is wider than and wall and this void will be filled with .040 sheet styrene on each side cut to fit into this area and shaped to match the curve of the face. Body putty will be applyed to fill and voids and the finished unit will be sanded to smooth the sides. The curved face extends .060 out past the wall on each side, to me this is to thick and using .040 styrene to fill the void behind this area then sanding it will cut down the width and should come out looking fine. More PICS when the walls are up.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*First wall*

Last night I modified the first wall devider section, I made 1 change from the original idea instead of using .040 sheet styrene I used .030 to make the 2 extra panels that I mounted to each side of the original wall to make it thicker (see attached photo below). Using the original wall as a template I made an outline on the sheet styrene, then used an X-acto knife to cut it out. It was set in place on the wall section and final cuts were marked and problem areas cleaned up with a knife of files. Both sections were then cemented into place allowed to dry, then putty was applied to areas were there were gaps, then I wet sanded the wall down with 220 grit sand paper for the removal of excess material. For the final wet sanding to smooth the part I used 440 grit sand paper. In the photo you can also see the modified wall and a original wall before modifications, and the finished control panels and computer boxes. The project is moving right along again next on to the radio/video monitor panel and the storage area behind it. 

http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/6956/j2y6ef.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

WOW that looks GREAT Robert !, very nice job.
Bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

I've started working my way around the interior walls of the upper level flight deck, in the photo below you'll see the beginning layout of the walls. I hope to use most of the original panels to cut down on some of the work, and speed things up. These walls will need numerous modifications to look good, but should not be to much work. In the photo position (A) the radio and video unit I plan on cutting the unit completely away and scratch building a new one, along with adding the two storage rooms for weapons and equipment behind it. (C) the main circuit board panel will be left alone, but the master alarm and flight recorder units will be cut out and new ones made from scratch. Wall section (D) will have to be moved forward in my design to match the ladder position with the lower level, also the wall dividers for the ladder and elevator will have to be modified and lengthened to fit correctly. Area (E) shows the modified divider panel and all its parts that will go between the main hatch and circuit panel wall. I am lengthening all these short wall panels so in addition to the 2 pieces of .030 sheet styrene on the outside to make the walls wider, I also have to make 2 pieces of .040 styrene to fill the void where the original wall ended. One last point for anyone that is going to attempt my idea for building the new divider walls. leave one of the units that go on either side of the main control panels unmodified as this one you will use as your template for making and lengthening all your other divider walls, when you have them all built (and I do mine as I go in case I need to change something) do the final modification to that one last before you install it.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/957/j2z0ms.jpg


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

Looks good Robert, did you know you got the airlock door on upside down?


----------



## bert model maker

DR. PRETORIOUS said:


> Looks good Robert, did you know you got the airlock door on upside down?


 must have one of the first run kits, that was corrected in later releases.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Upside down door*



DR. PRETORIOUS said:


> Looks good Robert, did you know you got the airlock door on upside down?


All the parts pictured with the exception of the main control panel are just sitting in place in the photo. Nothing is cemented down, as for the main hatch besides being upside down it is also to tall, and allows no room for wall panels at the top to make it look like it sits inside the wall of the air lock. The panels in the door are so large there is no room to cut it down to make it a little smaller so I'll most likely have to scratch build another one, like I did on the lower level. It will have the look of the original door but be flipped using raised panels insted of recessed ones. Another of many set backs with this project.


----------



## toyroy

Robert, You did a heck of a job, blending the landing gear wells in with the lower level detail. I haven't seen any other models that have done that. I look forward to all your J2 posts.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Robert, You did a heck of a job, blending the landing gear wells in with the lower level detail. I haven't seen any other models that have done that. I look forward to all your J2 posts.


Thanks for the praise, and I hope you continue to enjoy the project as it moves along. At this moment the upper level is giving me fits trying to get the control panels to look right and get the spacing correct between the main hatch and the radio/video consol. And move the side view port over a little to get it centered.


----------



## Y3a

I hope you upload all your photos to the photo album!


----------



## bert model maker

this Jupiter 2 will be a real treat to see !


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Radio/video unit*

Last night saw some progress again on the J-2. After almost 2 hours of sanding with a coarse sand paper sheet, going around and around the outer edge of the upper level floor. The top section of the outer hull now sits flush with the lower hull when set in place. This caused some unexpected side effects, my divider wall units and the interior cast walls are a little bit to tall now and do not fit under the lip of the upper saucer section now. These then required a small bit of sanding to make modifications needed to properly fit into their locations. Last project for the night was to grind away the cast on radio/video control unit from the kit wall, I used a dremmel tool with a flat grinding bit to cut away most of the parts. Then I sanded the rest smooth, when finished I was left with an oblong opening where the radio/video unit had been and the wing wall going to the view port. Tonight I start cutting the entry door to the storage area behind the radio unit, and start scratch building a new control box that looks more like the one used on the show. I'm going for the later version used in season 2 and 3 it looked better.


----------



## bert model maker

robert, i need to sand my upper deck edges too, how much sanding did it need to make the hull gap go away ? i need just enough so i can close my hulls all the way around ! thanks !
Bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> robert, i need to sand my upper deck edges too, how much sanding did it need to make the hull gap go away ? i need just enough so i can close my hulls all the way around ! thanks !
> Bert


I used 240 grit paper and just kept going around and around the outer edge of the floor, doing several swipes then turning the floor about 90 degrees and starting the process again. I did not remove a large amount of material during each phase that's why it took me about an hour and a half to remove enought material to get the shell to seat correctly. What it really did was give the floor a small space to shift a little as I set the top on, then I gave it a small twist back and forth once, and it seated itself just fine. Now and then I put the whole unit together to make sure I wasn't removing material from one area and making a big gap there.


----------



## bert model maker

i was wondering at first if it was the upper deck sitting to high on the lower deck walls but it is better if it was the upper deck floors being a little to long in the front and rear portions. it must just rub enough to keep the hull from seating down, i want to make sure not to take to much off and have the front cockpit sit to far back. thanks robert !
bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> i was wondering at first if it was the upper deck sitting to high on the lower deck walls but it is better if it was the upper deck floors being a little to long in the front and rear portions. it must just rub enough to keep the hull from seating down, i want to make sure not to take to much off and have the front cockpit sit to far back. thanks robert !
> bert


Bert the spacer tabs along the edge of the forward view port will keep the main consol in the correct location, and once you start sanding you'll see what a slow process it is. Also every so often put the parts back together and shine some light in there along the edge and see if your getting to much of a gap in one area, stop sanding there and work on he spots that are still touching. As for my project, I have cut the entry door in the side of the wall panel along side the radio/video unit. The hole that was formed by removing the control panel for the radio was filled with a piece of .030 sheet styrene. The wall divider that goes between the main hatch and circuit panel is assembled, and I hope to start making modifications to the control surfaces for the master alarm and flight recorder today also. Last I found a perfect solution to the problem with all the upper level door being to tall and also to wide, since I'm building interiors for the whole area I'll just leave them open, problem fixed.... It works for me.


----------



## bert model maker

i must say, i am very IMPRESSED with the amount of scratch built ideas you are making ! i really can't wait to see yours !
Bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

We picked up a virus a couple of days ago, which caused us to dump the entire computer operating system and do a complete start-up. So at this time we are trying to re-install all our operating systems, photo equipment and such. So I may not be able to post any photos tillI find the image software. With that said, work on the radio unit is set aside for a moment, and I've started tearing apart the next master alarm and flight recorder. To start I cut away the cast on toe kick at the base, I'm going to rplace it by cementing a piece of .080 x .080 strip styrene to the back of the wall unit, then attach a piece of .060 x .080 strip to that and set it back slightly, this will incress the depth of the toe kick area. The cast on master alarm unit, flight recorder and atomic clock have all been cut away. To do this I started by drilling a serise of small holes around the inside edge of the section to be removed, then I took a small fishtailed router bit and cut through the remaining styrene using the holes as my guide. Last I cleaned up edges with a flat file and finished up the corners with a square file. I also have to sand down the top of the unit some to get the height back to the right size, and sand away the cast on controle surfaces along those top angled areas, these will be replaced with some scratch made panels.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Okay I've goten my photos to load on my laptop, so I'm again in business. The first photo is the work compleated on the master alarm and flight recorder units mentioned before. The second photo is the first set of magna-panels behind the freezing tubes, here I have again drilled holes around the edges, then routered out the area between the drill holes. Lots of filing later the openings are squared up, all this only took an hour and a half of work. Again the control surfaces along the top panels have been sanded off and will be replaced later with new ones.

http://img333.imageshack.us/img333/6499/j2aa8sh.jpg
http://img351.imageshack.us/img351/985/j2bb7en.jpg


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Looking good, Robert. I have been waiting for this, the upper deck.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Before I start any more detail work on the upper level, I'm first going to get all the wall sections modified, and build any special sections I need. all of this will get painted and then I'll start adding the finial details, I have 1 more magna-panel to modify then 3 more sinple wall sections and last the remaining dividers.


----------



## bert model maker

hi robert, are you going to light the magna panels ?


----------



## toyroy

Robert, If I may ask, what kind of camera/lens/scanner do you use for your model pics?


----------



## bert model maker

toyroy said:


> Robert, If I may ask, what kind of camera/lens/scanner do you use for your model pics?


 yes, i was wondering the same thing, the pictures are nice and clear.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Robert, If I may ask, what kind of camera/lens/scanner do you use for your model pics?


Its not so much the camera as the program I use to load the photos, you'll love this its "Picture It" and if you have any photos done by Wal-Mart and loaded to a disk it comes on the disk they give you with the photos. As for the camera its a Sony Cyber-Shot 5.0 mega pixels. The wife got it at Costco for just over $200.00 has lots of features, after I take photos I load them using Picture it, and crop, then I clean up the image using special effects. They almost always come out clear and sharp. I have a Kodak DC215 that I paid $135.00 for and it doesen't take paicures as sharp as the wifes Sony. May sell mine on ebay and go get me a Sony unit.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> hi robert, are you going to light the magna panels ?


I don't do lighting projects, me and electricity do not get along, I'm carving all the panels out to build better looking units, and to get the recessed look of the TV show version. I may cut a corner or two but I keep trying to make all the areas look like the interior of the TV show ship. I've gotten very close so far.


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> Its not so much the camera as the program I use to load the photos, you'll love this its "Picture It" and if you have any photos done by Wal-Mart and loaded to a disk it comes on the disk they give you with the photos. As for the camera its a Sony Cyber-Shot 5.0 mega pixels. The wife got it at Costco for just over $200.00 has lots of features, after I take photos I load them using Picture it, and crop, then I clean up the image using special effects. They almost always come out clear and sharp. I have a Kodak DC215 that I paid $135.00 for and it doesen't take paicures as sharp as the wifes Sony. May sell mine...and go get me a Sony unit.


Thanks very much, Robert. Your pictures suggest that a digital camera can, in fact, give me what I need. It just so happens, that I got a version of Picture It! with my HP 712 printer, and I have already used it.


----------



## abacero

Hi!

I am also embarked in a J-2 project. The window for the interior besides the main hatch is great! Can you give me some advise about how to make it? Thanks!


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

I know some of you have been talking about a launch pad. I found this while surfing around: http://minimodelmadness.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=59


----------



## lisfan

you da man DR.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Magna-Panels finished*

Here are the three Magna-Panels that sit behind the freezing tubes, all the openings have been cut out and smoothed, the base has been removed from each section and will be replaced with a new shorter section. The center section of each wall unit I had to cut away the botton of the panel because of the cast on piping that was there. Also in the photo the outer hull is turne so the new view port location can be seen, I have marked the opening location this will have it centered, all that's left to be done is the drilling snd cutting out the old section, (see Photo)

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/5981/j2cc2sv.jpg


----------



## toyroy

Will you build your freezing tubes open, or closed?


----------



## bert model maker

toyroy said:


> Will you build your freezing tubes open, or closed?


 yeah, good question, i was going to ask that very question, i must say Robert, you are really doing some imaginitive work on your Jupiter 2


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Will you build your freezing tubes open, or closed?


The freezin tubes will be a problem that will be left up till the last minute. If I come across some clear styrene tuing that could relpace the kit ones then I may open them up. If no other solution comes along they will be closed.


----------



## bert model maker

Robert Hargrave said:


> The freezin tubes will be a problem that will be left up till the last minute. If I come across some clear styrene tuing that could relpace the kit ones then I may open them up. If no other solution comes along they will be closed.


 hi robert, take a look at cultmans lis site and look at jim pizars jupiter 2, he cut the freezing tubes and made them in the open posistion and shows the details, if that helps any,
bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Upper level update*

Here is a new shot of the work so far compleated on the upper deck. I'm now building the divider walls for the ladder and elevator sections 2 are compleated, 1 more to go. you'll notice right off that the ladder and elevator extend into the flight deck further than the other wall sections, I had to do this to get the correct alinement between the upper and lower levels. when the first manufacturer I think it was Aroura models did the original design, the lower level elevator cage was set 3/4's of an inch further into the lower level to seat it on the flat section of the floor. As you see the ladder was set back further up the slanting hull to meet with the correct upper level position. To correct this and make it look better I have moved the ladder alongside the elevator and pushed those two wall sections into the flight deck to match them all up. You can see the 2 modified divider wall sections, they still need to be sanded and putty applied to fill any voids.

http://img499.imageshack.us/img499/3895/j2dd1sn.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

that is looking great robert, looks like a real studio set where they are getting ready to to put in all the lights and props


----------



## Y3a

Robert, Aurora NEVER did the Jupiter 2 model. It was original to Polar Lights.


----------



## toyroy

model maker said:


> hi robert, take a look at cultmans lis site and look at jim pizars jupiter 2, he cut the freezing tubes and made them in the open posistion and shows the details, if that helps any,
> bert


Per Bert's recommendation, I read Pizar's article, and it mirrors my thought. I took another look at the pinned half of the tube, and as you look at the edge, it really looks like the two half-tubes together, just as when the tubes are open.


----------



## bert model maker

toyroy said:


> Per Bert's recommendation, I read Pizar's article, and it mirrors my thought. I took another look at the pinned half of the tube, and as you look at the edge, it really looks like the two half-tubes together, just as when the tubes are open.


 glad i could help


----------



## toyroy

model maker said:


> glad i could help


Thanks, Bert. This was the first Jupiter 2 model I've seen, where the freezing tubes were open. I don't remember any episodes after the first five or so, where the tubes were used. And, as far as I know, they were always open, when not in use.

Another way I've not seen modeled, is where the Robinsons are in the tubes, in their space suits. Of course, you could do either the Jupiter 2, or the Gemini 12 that way.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Y3a said:


> Robert, Aurora NEVER did the Jupiter 2 model. It was original to Polar Lights.


Then I stand corrected, I thought this was a re-issue of an old kit, glad to see as I get older I still have the ability to get some things wrong.... Don't say anything to my wife.

And PS yes Bert thanks for the link to the article on the freezing tubes, it does give me some ideas.


----------



## bert model maker

toyroy said:


> Thanks, Bert. This was the first Jupiter 2 model I've seen, where the freezing tubes were open. I don't remember any episodes after the first five or so, where the tubes were used. And, as far as I know, they were always open, when not in use.
> 
> Another way I've not seen modeled, is where the Robinsons are in the tubes, in their space suits. Of course, you could do either the Jupiter 2, or the Gemini 12 that way.


 i just happen to have some pictures of the jupiter 2 crew IN the freezing tubes in the PL J2 let me see if i can find them in my saved photos and i will post them if i can on this thread below


----------



## toyroy

Something tells me I shouldn't have made that silly joke about the viewport...


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Divider walls*

All 8 of he didvider walls have been compleated filling in the units using .030 sheet styrene and automotive body filler. They were then sanded smooth using 240 grit sand paper paper placed on a sheet of glass, and the parts wet sanded smooth. In the photo part A is the wall unit next to the main hatch, B are the 3 units going from the flight recorder around to the first freezing tube. C are the 2 other tube walls, and D are the walls for the flight deck control panels. I am also working up a new set of scale drawings of the lower and upper level deck layouts, which will include corrections, measurements and degree angles for the placement of walls and such.

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/79/j2ee2zj.jpg


----------



## toyroy

I believe you'll find the upper deck divider walls are all 45 degrees apart, or should be. Also, Ron Gross mentioned that Polar Lights failed to scale-up the freezing tubes from the full-size drawings of his 1/70 scale original's proposed interior.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> I believe you'll find the upper deck divider walls are all 45 degrees apart, or should be. Also, Ron Gross mentioned that Polar Lights failed to scale-up the freezing tubes from the full-size drawings of his 1/70 scale original's proposed interior.


That is all correct for Ron's model. But this is my conception using PL's shell and I have made several changes in the layout of the interior, including widening of the lower level view port to look like it did in the TV show interior shot, reaching from one side of the divider wall to the other, if you build it the way PL designed it you have a large arear of bulkhead on each side of the view port. But as I and a couple of others have mentioned mock ups built on the sound stage had little in common with the scale model of the Jupiter 2, one person complained about the large counter top area in front of the lower level view port on my model. If the model ship walls were on a 45 degree angle (or less) like the mock up seems to be I wouldn't have that huge counter top area big enough to sleep 4 people on. But I'm trying to fit a sound stage prop into a scale hull of a model, and lets mention while I'm at it that the lower level is 1/60th scale and the upper level is 1/70th and maybe a tad bit larger than that. Put S-scale figures in the lower level they look fine, move those same figures upstairs they all become wee little folk maybe I'll dress them all in green for St. Pattys day. For the most part I like my design, its a piece of art, my interpretation of what I think the ship could have looked like, but also trying to keep it looking like the original. So as a model of the hull the PL unit is great, but as a model of the ship it has flaws, just like lots of other kits out there. Vent, Vent, Hiss, Hiss-steam all gone now...... :freak:


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> That is all correct for Ron's model. But this is my conception using PL's shell and I have made several changes in the layout of the interior, including widening of the lower level view port to look like it did in the TV show interior shot, reaching from one side of the divider wall to the other, if you build it the way PL designed it you have a large arear of bulkhead on each side of the view port. But as I and a couple of others have mentioned mock ups built on the sound stage had little in common with the scale model of the Jupiter 2, one person complained about the large counter top area in front of the lower level view port on my model. If the model ship walls were on a 45 degree angle (or less) like the mock up seems to be I wouldn't have that huge counter top area big enough to sleep 4 people on. But I'm trying to fit a sound stage prop into a scale hull of a model, and lets mention while I'm at it that the lower level is 1/60th scale and the upper level is 1/70th and maybe a tad bit larger than that. Put S-scale figures in the lower level they look fine, move those same figures upstairs they all become wee little folk maybe I'll dress them all in green for St. Pattys day. For the most part I like my design, its a piece of art, my interpretation of what I think the ship could have looked like, but also trying to keep it looking like the original. So as a model of the hull the PL unit is great, but as a model of the ship it has flaws, just like lots of other kits out there. Vent, Vent, Hiss, Hiss-steam all gone now...... :freak:


My apologies; I was trying to help.


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> That is all correct for Ron's model. But this is my conception using PL's shell and I have made several changes in the layout of the interior, including widening of the lower level view port to look like it did in the TV show interior shot, reaching from one side of the divider wall to the other, if you build it the way PL designed it you have a large arear of bulkhead on each side of the view port. But as I and a couple of others have mentioned mock ups built on the sound stage had little in common with the scale model of the Jupiter 2, one person complained about the large counter top area in front of the lower level view port on my model. If the model ship walls were on a 45 degree angle (or less) like the mock up seems to be I wouldn't have that huge counter top area big enough to sleep 4 people on. But I'm trying to fit a sound stage prop into a scale hull of a model, and lets mention while I'm at it that the lower level is 1/60th scale and the upper level is 1/70th and maybe a tad bit larger than that. Put S-scale figures in the lower level they look fine, move those same figures upstairs they all become wee little folk maybe I'll dress them all in green for St. Pattys day. For the most part I like my design, its a piece of art, my interpretation of what I think the ship could have looked like, but also trying to keep it looking like the original. So as a model of the hull the PL unit is great, but as a model of the ship it has flaws, just like lots of other kits out there. Vent, Vent, Hiss, Hiss-steam all gone now...... :freak:


As I said, I was trying to help, I was not trying to tell you what to do, or complaining about any of your work. I do understand what you're dealing with, and I'm afraid I didn't make my meaning clear.

Polar Lights increased the size of their model to about 12 inches in diameter, relative to Ron's original, which was 10.3 inches in diameter, at a scale of approximately 1/70. So, the PL hull scales out at approximately 1/60, as does the upper deck vertically. Horizontally, the upper deck is to a smaller scale, and the lower deck to an even smaller scale. It's no wonder that the elevator and other points don't line up; passing through the deck is like going from "The Land of the Giants" to Earth.

You are doing art, in trying to reconcile the various scales together seamlessly. Although the upper level interior fit in the interior/exterior set(which was different from the full-scale mock-up,) the lower level was a completely different soundstage. The angles I mentioned are for the upper hull only, and are the angles the edges of the divider walls(as you call them) make with the vertical centerline of the deck, looking straight down from above. These angles don't vary, with the scale of the model. If you want to vary them, to better blend things artistically, fine. But, I think you were speaking of altogether different angles than I was.

As for the freezing tubes, what I meant was: even though PL scaled up the rest of the model, they kept Ron's original 1/70 dimensions for the freezing tubes. So, they are a little small, compared with other upper deck proportions.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Updated Blueprint*

This is a picture of the first draft of the new Jupiter 2 blueprint, this is all pencil work (to be inked when all corrections are done) and some changes are still in the works, but you'll see right off the top many corrections that have been made on this set of prints from my original set done to build the present J-2 Project. 
First change made to be a closer match to the TV show ship the right side of the flight deck has been shortened about 4 feet, and so has the lab area to get that recessed area, also the post has been added just before you walk into the galley where Dr. Smith likes to lean against is now in place just across from the far end of the lab. The galley has been lengthened just a bit to get the angled wall units in place (also openings have been designed to fit the PAPA TANGO design decal set) to correct the look of the galley. Everything else has generally stayed the same some minor upgrades have been done to the storage areas behind the staterooms, and to get the first stateroom out of the left side landing leg bay I move it over one section, and placed the rest room next to the flight deck. This is not a final configuration but is very close, just some touch ups to do then ink the final design and add lots of measurement and make a material list. 

http://img495.imageshack.us/img495/3696/j2ff8mi.jpg


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Start of Radio unit*

I've started building the Radio/Video unit cabinet, the unit will be built in two parts with the first being the video section. I used .020 and .030 styrene sections to build the cabinet and screen area. The lower section of the cabinet still needs to be assembled and will be made a little narrower than the upper unit. The unit is not a complete match for the TV unit but is better than the cast unit supplied with the kit.

http://img494.imageshack.us/img494/9537/j2gg6gi.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

looks good Robert, what are you going to do about the upside down door hatch ? it will still work and you have an extra airlock wall by the yellow light panels and you can make another one on the other side and you will have a complete airlock entry with 2 sides instead of one which i think would look better and more complete than just the one side like i have. great work Robert i can't wait to see this beauty of yours complete.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Radio/Video built*

Bert, for the problem with all the upper level doors I'm just going to cut out the openings and leave the doorways open, and you have a point the air lock does need a interior wall on the right side instead of using the divider wall for that, thanks for the idea. The Radio/Video cabinet is built using several sizes of styrene. I also included in the shot the old Radio unit that you get with the kit so you can see how they look side by side. I have some sanding and filing to do yet to clean up edges and smooth some spots, also a little putty work to fill a couple of gaps. The view screen and the two control panels below the screen need to be installed, but that will be after the unit is painted. Air lock is next.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4595/j2hh8mu.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

wow Robert, you really have a talent here ! when you finish and are ready to paint the outside, what color do you think you are going to paint it ? I used testors metallic silver but i wish i would have used what Brent Gair suggested and uses, is automotive primer and silver paint, this metallic silver i used is hard to handle without finding small smudges/stains from touching it that really show up under light, and when you try to remove dust from it, no matter how gently i do it it still leaves small marks/scratches in the paint, i didn't use future on it because one, i don't have an airbrush and two, i would have to mop it on like a sponge and wasn't sure what it would turn out to look like. i could always repaint the hulls since the front viewport just snapped in and the fusion core snapped on also, hmm, that is an idea "UH OH" the wife may say OH NO NOT AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL


----------



## Robert Hargrave

I painted the lower hull exterior with Testors Metallic Silver, and have all the problems you mentioned along with many scratches from Handling, and moving the hull during construction. After using Brent's idea to paint my B-47 Project I'm planning to paint the upper hull, and repaint the lower section with the Automotive type paints when its time.


----------



## bert model maker

how does the paint on your B-47 hold up to handling and dust ? how would our jupiter 2's look in that color silver ? what kind of primer did you use on it and how much sanding was needed to smooth the primer ?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> how does the paint on your B-47 hold up to handling and dust ? how would our jupiter 2's look in that color silver ? what kind of primer did you use on it and how much sanding was needed to smooth the primer ?


The paint shows no fingerprints, and I masked right on top of it to apply the white for the belly and flaps areas, it did not peal, or leave any residue on the masking tape when it was removed.

How would it look in that color, this is one on many different shades of Silver they have. I think this one would be fine.

http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/9130/b47e48id.jpg

They sell primer in these small bottles also and are recomended for using with these paints. I did try Floquil hobby brand primer with laquer and it still crazed in some areas, so I will use the auto stuff next time. If it is the same stuff my brother used in his auto body shop then it takes very little sanding, and you can sand right through it very quickly if your not careful, I know this form working for him many summers doing grunt work in his shop.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Main Hatch*

I cut the original hatch off the wall panel it was attached to, and as I looked it over using my magnafying hood I saw there was some excess material at the top and bottom of the door section. These two areas were .020 thick, I use cutters to remove them and filed the areas smooth. Next I did a test fit of the door to the original wall section. With these two areas removed the door sits low enough to place a plate across the top and form a frame for the door to sit into. I made the frame a U shape starting with 3 pieces of .060 X .040 strip styrene to form the sides and top of the frame (the door measures .060 thick), to the outside edges of each of these frames I added pieces of .060 X .015 strip styrene. One of these are attached to each side wall of the air lock, and one rests across the top of the door, when assembled the door now looks like it is sitting inside a frame. All the pieces shown are just sitting together nothing has been cemented yet.

http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/9931/j2ii5fn.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

looks great robert, very realistic.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Panel details added*

Work has started on the circuit board/master alarm/flight recorder panel. As the panel was it was to tall for the new interior so first thing I did was cut a .070 section off the top of the angled panels all the way across. The toe kick ledge along the base of the panel was also removed and replaced. This was formed using 3 pieces of .040 X .060 strip styrene run along the inside edge of the panel flush with the bottom. Then I cemented a piece of .080 X .080 strip styrene to the bottom of that piece lineing up the back edges, this gives the toe kick a deeper appearance. At the base of the panel are the 4 new control panels, the two new panels below the circuit board have handles that are hard to see in the photo, these were made out of .012 brass wire. These control panels will be painted Steel and decals added later, and are placed on the angled panels. Last to add some window dressing to the look of the panels I added some .020 X .040 strip styrene along the joint lines between the panels. Hopefully tonight the master alarm globe.

http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/5686/j2jj7ti.jpg


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Master alarm globe*

Last night I worked up the master alarm and globe assembly, first I built the box assembly that goes around the globe, this was formed out of .020 sheet styrene (.030 might be a better choice, with the edges filed smooth it would give you a larger surface to bite onto the kit wall unit.) I attached the outer sections to the kit wall unit first, then attached the top and bottom panels next, last I installed the two back panels. The globe base was made out of 1/4 inch plastic tubing with another piece of 3/16ths tube placed inside of it, the 3/16ths tube I cemented a piece of .020 styrene to the top, when it was dry a filed it to conform to the shape of the tube and inserted into the 1/4 inch tube and slightly recessed. The shaft for the globe, the two pieces in front of it and the 4 pins sticking out of the globe were made from .030 brass rod, these still need to be cut to the correct length and filed flat. The globe is a 3/8ths inch wooden ball fro Michael's crafts store. The torch like things in front of the globe are made from .100 styrene rod and are mounted on a piece of .080 X .080 styrene strip. All these parts are just sitting in place for the photo, painting this would be real fun if it were cemented in place. Next the flight recorder, and atomic clock. 

http://img494.imageshack.us/img494/5191/j2ll3gy.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

simply AMAZING, this is going to be OUTSTANDING !!!!!!!!!1


----------



## Steve244

What you mean "going to be"? The trip is more fun than the destination lots of times!


----------



## the Dabbler

I'm sorry RH, and all the other Trek & space guys, reading the text makes my eyes glaze over, BUT, seeing the pictures, AHA, that's a different story !! I AM amazed at that kind of work. Bravo !
Dabbler


----------



## Robert Hargrave

You know for the folks out there who don't really know how small these parts are, maybe I should stand a quarter or something along side of the units to give them some scale. I know the photos make this stuff look really big sometimes. I add the text so anyone wanting, or considering building along the lines I have drawn would have some idea what I did or used for the building of this project.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

This is amazing stuff. I do know how small it is. I still have mine to build, and this information is invalueable.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*flight recorder*

Last night I built the two magnetic tape reels, along with the disk that goes between the master alarm globe and its base piece. All of these were cut from a piece of .010 sheet styrene, I drew a 3/16ths circle on the styrene with a fine point sharpie then cut them out using some hobby side cutters. The final smoothing (and I use that word in the broadest term, more like made them look round is more like it.) I did with a hobby file holding each piece in a pair of pliars and getting as close to the marked line as I could, they did turn out well. For the tape part of the reel I cut a piece of .030 styrene and marked it 9/64ths. I cut this out and filed it the same way, then cemented the three pieces together, and after they were dry I marked the center, drilled a .035 hole through the reel and inserted a piece of .033 brass rod for mounting the reels, the front of the rod when filed flat becomes the reel cap. The Atomic clock is next and will be built the same way, after this wall unit is compleated I'm going to start painting all the sections that are finished now and get them assembled. then I'll move on and do some more sections, then paint and assemble again. No photos this time.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Atomic clock done*

After a lot of head scratching and a few well worded blessings, the alarm panel is completed minus a couple of small parts. The master alarm parts are cleaned up and setting in place, the flight recorder reels are in place along with the tape guides. Last the Atomic clock this unit had to be built twice as my first design was to short, for this attempt the recording bars were made from .030 styrene. For the second unit I used .060 styrene and this design came out looking closer to the original TV unit. The measurements are as follows starting at the bottom the two bottom plates are 9/32nds in diameter made from .010 styrene, the year reel is 1/4 inch in diameter and made from .060 styrene. The month plate is 7/32nds in diameter, with the reel being 3/16ths in diameter. The weeks plate is 11/64ths in diameter and the reel is 3/16ths in diameter. Last the days plate is 1/8th inch in diameter and the reel is 7/64ths in diameter. The top and bottom platforms are made of .040 styrene. I still need to enclose the back side of the clock box and this unit will be almost finished.

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/8672/j2mm4yz.jpg


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Painting has been started on some of the small detail items, walls for the weapons locker and storage cabinet behind the Radio/ Video unit are cut out. A few touch ups on the floor and get the main walls going and it will really be looking good. Then I can get this first sections nailed (well cemented ) down.


----------



## Y3a

Robert, you will have one of the BEST Jupiter 2 models when done. NOBODY ELSE will have this 'Set derivitive' type of model. It IS TRUELY AMAZING. If you have someone with a pinhole lens camera who can do a set of close-up deep depth photos, i'm sure those photos would be astonishing too! Working with such detail and in such a small scale is VERY DIFFICULT!


----------



## bert model maker

that is ,{in the words of the invaders from the 5th dimension} "A TRUE STATEMENT"


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thanks, to all who have viewed, offered ideas and just enjoyed the project this year. And to all happy Turkey Day.....


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

You too Robert!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## bert model maker

happy thanksgiving Robert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Painting Phase 1*

All the walls for the first section have been given the base coat of Panzer Interior Buff, The Freezing tube bases have been painted Aluminum. Tonights project will be to mask off the seperate cabinet sections and paint them with Steel so I can begin the finial detail work. This part always goes slowest, but has the best results.
Anyone know a good decal maker, I just purchased a 1/144 scale 747 and I have a scale 1/144 space shuttle that I want to convert to the piggy back configureation. I have a book with great shots of both and of the numbers and such for the plane and can provide a scale drawing of the decals I need made


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> All the walls for the first section have been given the base coat of Panzer Interior Buff, The Freezing tube bases have been painted Aluminum. Tonights project will be to mask off the seperate cabinet sections and paint them with Steel so I can begin the finial detail work. This part always goes slowest, but has the best results.
> Anyone know a good decal maker, I just purchased a 1/144 scale 747 and I have a scale 1/144 space shuttle that I want to convert to the piggy back configureation. I have a book with great shots of both and of the numbers and such for the plane and can provide a scale drawing of the decals I need made


Re: decals- try a model railroad specialty shop. If you can't find what you need ready-made(they have a great selection of lettering and striping,) some of those decal makers do such work to request. That's how some m.r.'s have their own custom r.r. paint jobs.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

I'm figuring that custom will end up being the route I end up going, and the sas thing is that the 747 only has the nasa logo and number on each side of its tail, along with a red, white and blue stripe along its side.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Paint progress*

Here is a update on the painting progress, everything from the flight consol to the atomic clock are almost finished painting, a couple of touch ups and add decals they will be ready to assemble. Pictured is the circuit board to flight recorder panels, I still need to paint the circuit glass blocks and spray the interior of the master alarm box.

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/8816/j2nn9do.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

looking real good robert !!!!


----------



## toyroy

You did a super job on that ball-on-top-of-a-gyroscope thing. That is one of those deal-making details. The eye says: yes, that's the way it looked, on the Jupiter 2.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thanks for all the good reviews. Last night I added all the seperate little control panels to the Circuit board, master alarm and flight recorder panels, installed the tape reels and atomic clock. I used the white stripe from a Missouri Pacific locomotive decal sheet to make the recorder strip on the atomic clock. Painted the alarm box interior black, finished most of the work on the radio/ video unit. Another night or two of work and it will be ready ro install on the upper deck.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Doing a great job, as always, Robert! When you finish the model, it will truly be a masterpiece!


----------



## bert model maker

Lloyd Collins said:


> Doing a great job, as always, Robert! When you finish the model, it will truly be a masterpiece!


 i agree !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Here is the almost compleated area set in place, just have the door to paint and add 1 mor item to the Radio unit. As I said months ago when I started the project if I see something I like from any season of LIS I would use it to improve the look of the ship, so I have to make the lenses and stand for the spectrometor that replaced the radio reciver in season 2 or 3 in the center consol of the base.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/5382/j2oo5sz.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

Wow !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Lloyd Collins

^^^ What Bert said!!


----------



## yamahog

No! What ERNIE said!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

No what my wife has said many times, are you every going to finish that thing, so I can get you to do some chores!


----------



## Lloyd Collins

^^ Now we know the delay. LOL


----------



## heiki

yamahog said:


> No! What ERNIE said!


OMG! Evil Bert!


----------



## bert model maker

heiki said:


> OMG! Evil Bert!


 WHAT ???????? LOL


----------



## Robert Hargrave

here is the first section of the upper deck assembled, there is even glass in the main hatch door

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/4302/j2122te.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5605/j2116bo.jpg


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

Excellent!!!!! So does the hatch open and close? How are you doing this?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

DR. PRETORIOUS]Excellent!!!!! So does the hatch open and close? 
No I cut away a section of the hatch to have it open a little bit, just to make it look different. 

How are you doing this?
I study lots of photographs, scratch my head a bunch (wifes says I'm getting a bald spot) and do a ton of scratch building.


----------



## JPhil123

Robert Hargrave said:


> DR. PRETORIOUS]Excellent!!!!! So does the hatch open and close?
> No I cut away a section of the hatch to have it open a little bit, just to make it look different.
> 
> How are you doing this?
> I study lots of photographs, scratch my head a bunch (wifes says I'm getting a bald spot) and do a ton of scratch building.


Hi,
Robert...I've been following the wonderful buildup and it looks like its going to be super quality, like something out of ILM. The model photographs like a piece twice as big (at least) due to the detailing. I can wait to see what you do with detailing of the exterior! I began slowly replacing the main viewport on all my Jupiter 2 buildups to add further detailing and to replace the wavey effect (which isn't really so bad at all, but the model looks better when its eliminated). I don't recall if you mentioned it, but did you have a particular season of the show in mind when you began the buildup, or was it a sort of combination based on general information available?

Regards,
Jim


----------



## Robert Hargrave

The main design is season 1 with any items I feel improves the look of the ship, just no space pod, there isn't room in this configuration.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Great progress, Robert! Really enjoying your work.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Next Phase*

I've moved on to building the 3 sets of freezing tubes and magna-panels as a single unit, as all 3 are the same its easier to frame them all at one time. The 3 center panels where I had to cut away the bottom of this panel to remove the cast on piping has been filled with .080 x .060 strip styrene, framing made from .040 x .060 styrene has been installed around the inside edge of the panel openings I cut out earlier, so that when I install the new backs they will have more depth for a better look. As with the master alarm panel I cut away about 1/4 inch from the top edge of each panel to allow for the new toe kick area. Progress on the upper deck is going much faster than I ever expected it to.


----------



## Steve244

yeah, you get a lot more bang for your buck on the upper deck build. Funny that.

But wait until you start putting all the greebles and conduit behind the walls...


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Here are the modified panels

http://img273.imageshack.us/img273/3554/j2136ey.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

i can't wait to see it all come together, that is some intense detail work there Robert !


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Here are the magna-panel walls, the control panels above each magna-panel is not correct but is the closest I can come to the look of the show, for now. The framing inside the two outer panels is yet to be built. A few more parts to make and they will be ready to install.

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6161/j2147kb.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

simply outstanding robert !!


----------



## Steve244

Nice taste in countertops too!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

The magna-panel outer sections are done, but still scratching my head on the center section. Here are 2 shots of a finished single unit and all three units set in place on the upper deck. I changed out the thumbnail view I didn't like it.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8484/j2156lc.jpg

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/399/j2162ty.jpg


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

Superb, Robert!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## bert model maker

How In The Heck Do You Make The Jupiter 2 Look So Good Robert What Color Of Blue Is That ? Such Detail !!!!
Bert


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> What Color Of Blue Is That ? Such Detail !!!!
> Bert


Duck Egg Blue, is the color on the inside panels, between the over head light and camera flash it really threw off the colors. The back side of the foreground wall to the right of the second photo is painted Panzer Interior Buff but looks Lt. Blue in the Pic.


----------



## bert model maker

yep duck egg blue is the color i painted mine.


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> The magna-panel outer sections are done, but still scratching my head on the center section. Here are 2 shots of a finished single unit and all three units set in place on the upper deck. I changed out the thumbnail view I didn't like it.
> http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/8484/j2156lc.jpg
> 
> http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/399/j2162ty.jpg


Are your flight consoles at their finished height?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*3-1/2 Stars out of 5*

All control panels are at their finished heights, and the Magna-panals are done, the mounting pads for the freezing tubes are a little out of kilter so are throwing my wall units off. When I install the tubes they will not be centered.

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/9697/j2175ds.jpg


----------



## Steve244

You may need to extend the magna panels some to align with the freezing tubes. As I recall constant dry fitting of all wall sections were needed with adjustments all around. Like you're probably thinking, that's a little too outta kilter.

Alignment is possible.

Killer build up. What other kit out there affords this much fun with a vehicle? Maybe one of Mrs. P's doll houses on wheels.


----------



## bert model maker

simply amazed by your jupiter 2 also steve !!!!


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Stunning work going on over here.


----------



## NTRPRZ

*Why not move the freezing tubes?*

Robert
With all the work you've invested in this magnificent project, I don't understand why you are willing to have the freezing tubes be "off kilter." Granted, it's a little more work, but it wouldn't be too hard to saw off the bases and construct new ones made from cut-out bits of styrene. Heck, you could just make one and then make resin copies of the rest.
Like I said, it's extra work, but is it really that much more when compared to the fact that everything will look a little cock-eyed when you're done?
Personally, I plan to take the easy route if I ever do my J2. I'm just going to do the upper deck!

Jeff


----------



## Robert Hargrave

1 I'm getting lazy after all the time put into the build.
2 It would be next to impossible to remove these pieces this far along in the build, without doing damage to some of the other finished areas.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Robert, I think your mind is wondering, your not lazy. I bet you have another model you want to start. You are building this for yourself, but you are also doing it for us to enjoy. And I want to tell you, that I would not want to miss this for anything!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Steve244 said:


> You may need to extend the magna panels some to align with the freezing tubes. As I recall constant dry fitting of all wall sections were needed with adjustments all around. Like you're probably thinking, that's a little too outta kilter.


Steve you are correct, I thought the match up would be better than it turned out to be, in my test fit it was better. But as it was cemented down the true final location came out. If I had known how off the fit would be I would have cut out the base pieces and filled in the holes when I extended the floor then cemented them back down after the walls were in place


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Thanks Lloyd, my project is just a guide for the next J-2 builder to get some ideas from, and build an even better looking ship.


----------



## Y3a

Robert Hargrave said:


> Thanks Lloyd, my project is just a guide for the next J-2 builder to get some ideas from, and build an even better looking ship.



IMPOSSIBLE! Yours is the best!

BTW... Did you get some little figures? Smith in a freezing tube with the robot staring in would be great!


----------



## Steve244

I believe my solution was more accident: the bulkheads were thickened necessitating reducing the size (length) of the panels. The bulkheads were glued down where they "looked right" and the panels trimmed rather than lengthened. Like I said, a happy accident...


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> Steve you are correct, I thought the match up would be better than it turned out to be, in my test fit it was better. But as it was cemented down the true final location came out. If I had known how off the fit would be I would have cut out the base pieces and filled in the holes when I extended the floor then cemented them back down after the walls were in place


Robert,

I'm sorry my Unimat isn't running right now, or I'd turn up properly scaled freezing tube tops and bases for you, in aluminum.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Robert, I'm sorry my Unimat isn't running right now, or I'd turn up properly scaled freezing tube tops and bases for you, in aluminum.


Thanks for the offer, if I ever build the other J-2 kit sitting in my closet I will cut out the freezing tube bases, fill the holes with .060 styrene and install them after the walls are in place. The last divider wall sections are installed I'm kind of stuck at the moment, our main computer that has my drawings in it has been back in the shop again and until we get it working 100% I can't reload my drawings of the ladder and elevator that have all my measurements for building them on it. So tonight I'll do some work on the hull and get the porthole sanded smooth and cut out the new one in the right location. I also have 2 more landing legs to rebuild also, starting to see a little light at the end of the tunnel.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Holiday break*

Between computer problems, the holiday season now being upon us, the progress on my J-2 project has slowed to creep status. I have finally found my much needed drawings of the ladder assembly and elevator cage diagrams, that the wife transferred to disk when out system went bust. Now I can get back on track and finish those two areas of the upper level. Right now I'm finishing the modifications of the last two landing gear assemblies, filling in the side view port opening to cut the new location out, last working out a drawing of the reactor unit and tinkering with how to build it up. Going to pick up paint from the Automotive store this week for painting the outer hull areas and get started on repainting the lower level outer hull, as I am not happy at all with the way the Testors Silver Metallic turned out. I hope to get what should be the finishing shots of the construction part of the project, then a last set of finished shots posted in the next couple of weeks or a little longer, but the light is at the end of this very long tunnel and the J-2 project is coming to a close. Many thanks to all who have followed the project, offered advise and asked questions. Have a happy (and safe) Holidays and hope to see all back here at the start of the new year. :hat:


----------



## toyroy

I'm very much looking forward to seeing the latest developments.


----------



## bert model maker

toyroy said:


> I'm very much looking forward to seeing the latest developments.


 me too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*New Photos*

Night 1
The landing gear is almost finished, the original steps have been cut away from the last two units, the side and back panels smoothed using a small file. Some .010 sheet styrene was cut and inserted on the bottom step of the leg and on the back inside wall to hide the seam and any damage done from cutting away the steps, this also adds strength to the leg. New resin landing pads were purchased and the PVC boot was cut off the original landing pad and used on these. A .033 brass rod was inserted through the PVC boot to anchor the landing pad and the new styrene rod strut. 2 more pieces of styrene tube were added to form the collar just above the PVC boot, and the second section of the strut. On the front of the landing leg where the pad and strut assembly are attached, I drilled a hole and cemented a piece of styrene tube through the hole and onto he landing leg step area, this will be drilled and the brass mounting pin anchored to this styrene rod. 

http://img448.imageshack.us/img448/8489/j2182ll.jpg

Night 2
I've taken the two wall sections that have the ladder and elevator sections and by making a few modifications will use them for this project. The first step was to cut the width of the wall down to fit into the new opening made by the lengthened divider walls. On the ladder wall I then cut off the cast on rungs with a razor saw, then using the left over styrene pieces I cut filler blocks and cemented them into the holes left after removing the ladder rungs. I shortened the width of the door and cut out the new opening leaving the doorway open. Then I spread body putty to cover the remaining door material and the ladder area, when it was dry I wet sanded these areas smooth. I then did the same door fix to the elevator wall. 

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/7449/j2193sf.jpg

Night 3
I've filled in the joint around the styrene filler piece for the old view port, cut out the new view port opening in its new more centered location and angled the opening with a large wood rasp. I also filled in the seam on the outer main hatch door. And in this photo you can see where I have started the openings for the rope the tethers along the side of the main hatch. Finish cutting out the openings, add the pins and install the door control buttons this will be ready for primer

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/265/j2203qk.jpg


----------



## toyroy

Robert,
I've noticed most Polar Lights builder's don't address this detail- including Ron Gross, in his Cult TV Man tips: the upper edge of the rectangular viewport should come out to the hull surface, as the other edges do. The intersecting 'sill' surface inclines downward slightly, towards the ship centerline. 

This struck me when I first saw the kit's hull- I looked around, to see where the part was, and was surprised when I couldn't find it! 

I'm just pointing this out, for you and your readers. It's easy to see, when you're looking at the full-size set, or any of the shooting miniatures.


----------



## starmanmm

It is looking good! I don't know if I had missed it, but how did you build the atomic clock?


----------



## bert model maker

starmanmm said:


> It is looking good! I don't know if I had missed it, but how did you build the atomic clock?


 robert, this is looking so great !!!! by the way, what do you use for taking the great pictures and oh yeah HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

starmanmm said:


> It is looking good! I don't know if I had missed it, but how did you build the atomic clock?


To be honest I may have missed that topic, the process is simple but a pain in the butt to do. There are 4 reels ranging in order from bottom to top reel #1 years, #2 months, #3 weeks and #4 days. To build them I used .010 sheet styrene to make the tops of each reel, for the reel recorder part I used .060 sheet styrene. I took a drafting circle template and a fine point sharpie marker and drew the circles out on the .010 and .060 styrene for each piece needed. I then cut out each piece with nippers making very small cuts when I got to the edge of each piece, at that point I used a file to smooth the edges and round out each piece right up to the outline marks.
These pieces are not perfectly round, but because of their location you cannot get up close enough to see them that well and from a short distance away they look very good. After painting them, I used some white model railroad decal stripes from a Missouri Pacific locomotive to add the paper part of the reels. Here is a part list going from bottom to top (.010) styrene tops X2-19/64 1-13/16 1-11/64 1-9/64 (.060) reels 1-7/32 1-3/16 1-5/32 1-1/8 Hope this answers all your questions. If not just e-mail me.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> robert, this is looking so great !!!! by the way, what do you use for taking the great pictures and oh yeah HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!


Hey Bert, I use a Sony Cyber-Shot 5.0 it was $200+ change, the camera helps but the real tool is the program I use to set up my photos. Its called Picture it, if you have any photos processed at Wal-Mart and put on CD the program comes already loaded on the photo CD. I take most photos fom a good distance away, then load in onto Picture it. Then I crop the photo to get rid of wasted area, last I click on enhance image and sharpen the picture then save it. I'm sure there are other programs that do as good or a better job that Picture it, but it was free and works for my needs.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Night 4
I've constructed the 4 ladder rungs using .022 brass wire and .020 x .060 styrene strips, also the elevator lift wall has been build using a piece of .060 H beam for the lift channel, the 2 pieces of .020 x .250 styrene strips, the end pieces are .020 x .060 styrene strip. The end pieces have to be marked and drilled for the elevator rings to be installed. Last item constructed was the environmental control box, I used a piece of .010 styrene for the back plate, then cut 4 pieces of .020 x .080 styrene strip to make the 4 square boxes that mount to the plate. I'm almost ready to do some painting.

Night 5
Well ma had to go to bed early last night, for payroll entry tomorrow. So painting was put off as I don't have one of those quiet compressors. So I finished the tether anchors and installed the door control buttons. I also started drilling the elevator wall ring mounting holes till one of the cement joints broke loose, had to fix that. 

Night 6
Primer has been applied to the, fusion core, landing gear and top hull cap in preparation for spraying the Ford Silver Frost, if Image Shack was up you could see a red Jupiter 2. The inside of the upper hull has been painted with Armor Sand, and the last two wall panels along with the elevator lift panel have been painted with Panzer Interior Buff. Will load photos tonight when IS is back up again.


----------



## bert model maker

i am looking forward to seeing the new photos robert !


----------



## toyroy

model maker said:


> i am looking forward to seeing the new photos robert !


Ditto, here!  

You gave me an idea, too. I may paint one of my J2's with a silver irridescent finish- kinda like a 3D-CD, and have it spin around slowly in a shadow box with a light show- while playing Space-a-Delic...  

Or, maybe not.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Ditto, here!
> 
> You gave me an idea, too. I may paint one of my J2's with a silver irridescent finish- Or, maybe not.


First let's see how the Silver Frost turns out on this project. It looked great on my B-47E. Next someone will want to do a glow in the dark J-2.


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> Next someone will want to do a glow in the dark J-2.


That would look really cool, on a launchpad display! Or, in a shadowbox, being pelted with tinfoil asteroids...


----------



## Y3a

Jeez, I thought about THAT a few years ago as a way to show the J2's glow before liftoff. Using regular light, and then bringing up the UV lights to make it glow. I thinkI'll just do it with bright blue floods and dimmer yellow light.


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> First let's see how the Silver Frost turns out on this project. It looked great on my B-47E.


I'm definitely keen to see how your hull looks, and whether you like the color. There are so many automotive silver tints. (But then, maybe you can't go too far wrong, with any of them.)


----------



## toyroy

Y3a said:


> Jeez, I thought about THAT a few years ago as a way to show the J2's glow before liftoff.


Exactly! But I was thinking of one of my cardstock models, not a four-footer!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

IS finially back up, here is a photo of the upper hull with primer applied to protect the plastic from the lacquer thinner and automotive paint. And the saucer cap which was primed earlier and has 2 light coats of Silver Frost applied. It will need a light sanding with fine grit paper befor the next coat is applied

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5716/j2254xa.jpg

Also a shot of the fusion core and landing gear with primer applied

http://img489.imageshack.us/img489/8598/j2269qb.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

i really look forward to your new progress pics Robert, i sure had fun masking of my fusion core piece, but the time it took with little pieces of tape paid off, what kind of primer is that and how much sanding is needed to make it smooth ?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> what kind of primer is that and how much sanding is needed to make it smooth ?


Bert the paint and primer are Dupli-Color automotive scratch fix 2 in 1, they can be found in almost any auto supply shop and I think Wal-Mart carries them also. The primer goes on very smooth and requires little sanding but will make lots of powder when you do sand. My paint went on kind of rough so I'm going to give it a light sanding with a fine grit paper to see if I can smoth it out, before adding any more coats. Also the stuff isn't cheep a 1/2 fluid ounce runs me $5.99 looks like it will take 1 bottle of primer and 2 bottles of Silver Frost to paint the kit. On the Plus side no finger print marks and tape will not pull the paint off.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Bert, I just sanded the top cap and upper hull using 800 grit sand paper, the top cap came out smooth as glass with just a few strokes. The main hull cleaned up just as good but the primer paint is just as I remember a couple of strokes is all it takes to sand right through to the surface below. After cleaning up with a tak cloth I gave the main hull its first coat of Silver Frost and the top cap its 3rd coat. The Silver Frost reallt made some small scratches stand out on the main hatch I'll have to repair that before it gets another coat, but the paint looks great.


http://img439.imageshack.us/img439/8806/j2279dt.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

you know i had the same scratches by the main hatch that i didn't notice until the silver went on. i fine sanded it and didn't see the scratch and as soon as i re sprayed, the flippin scratch showed up again it must be molded in somehow, i agree that the testors silver metallic is too fragile to use on something that will be handled, i didn't use primer due to the fact i never have only because i didn't want to CREATE rough or uneven areas that were not there before but from now on i will and i will use the auto paint. the silver frost i saw at walmart and of all the silvers, i agree that the silver frost looked the best, maybe i will strip my hulls and redo them after all to show the inside detail, you do have to handle it.i still have to sand the upper hull edges so the hulls will sit right, just been a truck drivin'fool these last few months and i come home late at nite and peek under the towel covering my jupiter 2 while the wife says, "when are you going to get it off the table, and i say as soon as i have time to get the hulls to close right. i keep it covered with a towel and dust STLL finds it's way onto it, but with the testors silver, i don't want to touch it because of the scratch hazzard


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Here are the ladder wall almost completed, and the elevator wall with the 4 main rings set in place, next will come the two support rods and last the 3 side pieces to finish off the cage assembly.

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/773/j2289lw.jpg


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

What did you use for the elevator rings?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

I picked them up at Michale's craft shop, in the bead isle. They are 3/4 of an inch wide and look like small key rings, when cut one in half you can get 2 rings per piece. I don't have the package any more but the shop is down the street, if your intrested I can get the name for you.


----------



## bert model maker

Robert Hargrave said:


> Here are the ladder wall almost completed, and the elevator wall with the 4 main rings set in place, next will come the two support rods and last the 3 side pieces to finish off the cage assembly.
> 
> http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/773/j2289lw.jpg


 boy oh boy this JUPITER is looking great !!!


----------



## DR. PRETORIOUS

I have a Michaels a block away from my work so I should be able to find them. Thanks Robert and your ship is superb!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Not a lot of work done last night ut I did install the two support rods that mark the elevator cage opening, these are made using .033 brass rod and were cemented in place with super glue. I mounted the rod in a pair of self closing tweezers, then set the cage over the rod and lined it up with the edge of the lift housing on the wall. Then a few dabs of super glue and let it sit for a while and your ready for the next one. I also added the control buttons to the environmental control panel, still looking for the right item to make the three tubes below that control panel. This project is quickly coming to its end, I have the lower hull to repaint, a couple of detail items to add then it will be time for the last finishing up photos. After almost two years of building I need a vacation from the J-2. When I get the urge to work on the last of the detail areas like the reactor room behind the elevator, and the storage area behind the ladder wall. I'll add a photo when they get finished, this project has been one of those love, hate relationships I loved watching it develop but hate all the time it took.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/3848/j2298ui.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

that is really looking great Robert, i know what you mean about love/hate i too spent 2 1/2 years on mine on and off the first hakf developing my skills and the second half redoing it so every little detail had to be just right, it sure takes a lot of time to do the Jupiter 2 right.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I for one, have been thrilled to see it come together. This will be a model to be very proud of. Almost two years of working on it! Are you still sane? It has to be a labor of love. I know Bert has lost it after 2 1/2 years. LOL


----------



## bert model maker

Lloyd Collins said:


> I for one, have been thrilled to see it come together. This will be a model to be very proud of. Almost two years of working on it! Are you still sane? It has to be a labor of love. I know Bert has lost it after 2 1/2 years. LOL


 thats for sure, it is all finished except for 1 thing and that is to sand the edges of the upper deck in the front and back so the upper/lower hulls will close all the way without that gap on half of it. i still need to take pictures of it but want the hulls closed like they should, just so many long work hours everyday and catching up on weekends had no time to sand, so there it sits on the table covered with a towel, then i have 2 sets of battery operated floral mini lights for the upper/lower deck just not sure how i will put them in to work and the wires not be seen. i don't want to rush the deck sanding as not to break of a part that is cemented in place and have to fix that too, maybe this weekend i will sand the edges.


----------



## PhilipMarlowe

That's going to be one NICE J2! Impressive work, Robert :thumbsup:


----------



## Robert Hargrave

The upper hull is finished 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of Silver Frost and it looks fantastic. When objects get within 2 inches of the hull it starts to give off a reflection not clear enough to be like a mirror but you can see shape and color. The light it was shot in makes it look blue white, but it is very silver in color. Three more safety bars to go on the elevator and the cage is finished.

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/1623/j2307ml.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

vey nice robert !!!


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> The upper hull is finished 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of Silver Frost and it looks fantastic.
> 
> I agree. You did this with a brush?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

If I paint using a brush it always comes out looking like a speghetti comb over lots of lines. This was an airbrush job with my trusty badger single action unit.


----------



## toyroy

Robert Hargrave said:


> If I paint using a brush it always comes out looking like a speghetti comb over lots of lines. This was an airbrush job with my trusty badger single action unit.


I don't know where I got the idea you only brush-painted. I've seen the Silver Frost color you used in spray can, which is much cheaper. Why did you airbrush, if I may ask?


----------



## the Dabbler

I got to tell you Robert I am in awe !! Looks to me like something I'd see on a TV show, by "professionals". Hell, even Norm Abrams couldn't build a full scale mockup looking that good.
Also gives me hope to get better with MY little Badger single-action.
Dabbler


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Why did you airbrush, if I may ask?


I was not aware that color came in a spray can, anyway I enjoy airbrushing and mixing my own paint to thinner ratio, having control of the air pressure and the volume of mixture being released. On the J-2 the first 2 coats of paint were applied in light coats, the third was sprayed on thicker to get the final smooth finish. If I had used a spray can I would have had thick spots or runs everywhere as there is no control of the pressure or volume applied once you punch the plunger you get what you get, no more no less. Clean up when I'm finished or when changing colors takes me less than 2 minutes, I pour out any unused color, fill the cup with thinner open the volum valve all the way up and spray till empty. I remove the cup add a little more thinner and wipe it out, take an eye dropper and flush a little more thinner through the air brush. Unscrew the flow pin wipe it off, wipe off the front of the nozzle and I'm done. Every couple of months I'll take the brush apart and soak the metal parts over night in thinner, then take my cleaning brushes and give it a good once over and it works like new.


----------



## bert model maker

yep, i saw that silver frost in the auto section of walmart compared to the other silvers they had, the silver frost looked the best for the Jupiter 2. i haven't delveloped my airbrushing skills yet, i have never used one in fact. someday though, the spray cans, especially the model paints are expensive for what little you get ! can't wait to see more Robert, btw, how durable do you think the auto paint you used compared to the testors metallic silver you used first ?
Bert


----------



## toyroy

Robert, 
I notice you chose a red primer. Were you intending to give a bit of a red hue to the silver?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> btw, how durable do you think the auto paint you used compared to the testors metallic silver you used first ?
> Bert


I've had my hands all over this color not a mark has been left and not one speck has come off attached to my fingers. Like the Testors paint did.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

toyroy said:


> Robert,
> I notice you chose a red primer. Were you intending to give a bit of a red hue to the silver?


The primer was only to protect the plastic from the Laquer thinner and the auto paint. On my B-47 project where the color hit bare plastic it crazed like crazy, had to be sanded smooth and repainted. After the paint was applied you cannot see the primer or any change in the original color.


----------



## bert model maker

Robert Hargrave said:


> I've had my hands all over this color not a mark has been left and not one speck has come off attached to my fingers. Like the Testors paint did.


 how long until it was fully cured ? mine has the testors on it and each time i try to get any dust off it leaves little marks you can see under light, nothing like working on the painted hulls then a drop of sweat hits the paint then you have a permanate mark and have to repaint. robert, how much sanding and what grit did you use for the primer and which primer did you go with ?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> how long until it was fully cured? How much sanding and what grit did you use for the primer? Which primer did you go with ?


#1-It was dry within minutes, but I still leave it sit over night between coats. #2-For sanding of the primer and final color I used 800 grit sand paper and I do a very light sanding, then clean it up with a tack cloth is all that was needed. #3-I used the Dupli-Color car touch up paint primer its ment to be used with this paint so why mess with what works. I spray it on and it may not cover everything (dark lines and such will show through the primer, but that seem to be no problem) when you apply the final color that will cover any lines or other blemishes, if there are small scratched or such you'll need to fix those, after you apply the first coat of color you'll see what has to be fixed. But to get the finished look of my ship it took 3 coats of Silver Frost with the third application being slightly heavy to get the mirror like effect.
Last night was the heart stopping moments thatgive modelers gray hair. I primed the lower level, now hoping no primer found any gaps to leach into the finished interior. The primer showed a defect in the space pod hatch I filled in, so I need to do some minor repair work to the hatch area before I continue.


----------



## Y3a

I can't wait for MORE PHOTOS!


----------



## bert model maker

thanks Robert, glad to know there is a durable silver paint out there, that is what i will be using from now on !


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Well its down to the wire now, applied the first of the last coats of paint. Still having a problem with the space pod hatch, a little more sanding and I may have to shoot some extra coats of paint there to let it flow out and smooth the area.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/867/j2306gh.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

Robert Hargrave said:


> Well its down to the wire now, applied the first of the last coats of paint. Still having a problem with the space pod hatch, a little more sanding and I may have to shoot some extra coats of paint there to let it flow out and smooth the area.
> 
> http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/867/j2306gh.jpg


 are you going to have a working space pod hatch door ?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

Bert, were you not in class the first day of J-2 school. My J-2 has no space pod so I'm trying to fill in the opening. Without a lot of suscess. Anyway tomorrow will be the end of the project for awhile. Everything is painted, I'll attach the fusion core, and landing legs, take the last photos and then I'm taking a vacation. Whats left, the upper and lower level view port frames, the reactor room and storage area behing the ladder wall, and a final detail here and there, but everything else is finished. and I want to work on something else to clear the cob webs out of my head. This has been a very long project and I need to relax and step away from it for awhile. Time for the next Jupiter 2 lover to step up and show the rest of us how it's done. Cause stick a fork in me I'm done....


----------



## bert model maker

i know what you mean, mine was a 3 year on and off project other models after this one will seem easier. in fact, while i was taking a break from the j2 last year i started and completed the invaders ufo, great model that one is ! any plans on what your next project will be ? i still have a 1/72 columbia shuttle to do.


----------



## Robert Hargrave

model maker said:


> any plans on what your next project will be ? i still have a 1/72 columbia shuttle to do.


I did one of those last year for my grandson in Michaign, made my own decal sheet for the control panels using the Squardron walk around space shuttle book. and matching the control panels to the book then reduced the image till it fit, looked really good. For the thrusters in the nose section I drilled out each opening then using files finished the openings to the correct shape, last I took plastic tubing and filed it to fit the openings to give the appearance of depth, and have each thruster pointing the right direction. Now finding a box to mail it in was another task.....
Next project finish my submarine or maybe a jet fighter. But then I did get a 1/144 scale 747 to go with my scale 1/144 space shuttle to build my own 747 piggyback carrier with shuttle that would be a fun project.


----------



## Y3a

Funny how those involved Jupiter 2 projects Burns You Out after just a few short years. I didn't even LOOK at my 2 footer for almost 8 months after it was done! So NOW I have this 4 foot job. What was I thinking??


----------



## Cappy D

I can sympathize with the "burn-out" factor. The J-2 I started has been languishing on the shelf for more than a year now. It is definitely a daunting task, but your work is inspirational.

Cappy D


----------



## Robert Hargrave

*Touch down*

The project is finished for now, there are still some small details to add here and there, but they can wait for another day.
The exterior shots are off some how, when I look at the ship something just isn't right, I don't know what it is but it just looks off. And no its not the 2 rolls of tape holdin the ship up. weighing in at 1.75 pounds lets just say it was a slight strain on the laning gear when we had touchdown. The interior shots I have not one problem with, the interior look just fine. Enjoy the last shots, many thanks to all who came along for the trip. tonight was a double mile stone, finishing up the J-2 and 7330 views of my project. Without HT almost no one would have ever seen her. Thanks...

Exterior
http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/8859/j2366ip.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6779/j2323th.jpg

Interior
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2353/j2300to.jpg
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/8255/j2355qc.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4504/j2341lw.jpg


----------



## bert model maker

OUTSTANDING ROBERT !!!! that paint looks great too.


----------



## toyroy

Simply super, Robert! Your interior is certainly an inspiration. Thanks for sharing your expertise with all us Jupiter 2 modelers.


----------



## Steve244

Very cool. Makes me want to raid my stash for the sole J2 on the bottom of the pile.

(winders! it needs winders!)


----------



## Y3a

Are you going to add the hole where the ladder takes you from the upper to lower level?


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Awesome, Robert! I am honored to have witness your Jupiter 2 coming together. Now it is time for a vacation!


----------



## toyroy

Y3a said:


> Are you going to add the hole where the ladder takes you from the upper to lower level?


What if it is located directly over the bathroom?


----------



## Y3a

make sure the steps go around the TP holder, and past the magazine rack.


----------



## bert model maker

Steve244 said:


> Very cool. Makes me want to raid my stash for the sole J2 on the bottom of the pile.
> 
> (winders! it needs winders!)


 you got a second j2 steve ?


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Their is another J2 model being built by a professional modeler, but won't be as detailed as Roberts. Check it out here http://www.simonmercs.biz/ontheworkbench.html
I have watched him build a 22 inch 1701, and Klingon Bird of Prey. He does great work.


----------



## Steve244

model maker said:


> you got a second j2 steve ?


Had a 3rd but I let little Nicky glue it together.


----------



## bert model maker

ya gonna build it ?


----------



## toyroy

model maker said:


> ya gonna build it ?


Bert! Talk about taking Jupiter 2's from a baby! :jest:


----------



## Steve244

naw. well maybe. hooboy. builder's cramp lately.


----------



## bert model maker

Steve244 said:


> naw. well maybe. hooboy. builder's cramp lately.


 steve, when you build it, how different will the build be from your masterpiece ?


----------



## Steve244

Maybe a haunted J2. Kinda like the Munsters Living room with cobwebs and stuff.


----------



## bert model maker

Steve244 said:


> Maybe a haunted J2. Kinda like the Munsters Living room with cobwebs and stuff.


 when ya gonna start on it ? both decks ????? i don't think i could stand to do another one with all the detail i did, however, i did learn ALOT from it and my modeling skills improved %100


----------



## Lloyd Collins

If you remember, their is an episode where the Jupiter 2 is full of cob webs and vines.


----------



## bert model maker

Lloyd Collins said:


> If you remember, their is an episode where the Jupiter 2 is full of cob webs and vines.


 yep, CAVE OF THE WIZARDS


----------



## toyroy

Steve244 said:


> Maybe a haunted J2. Kinda like the Munsters Living room with cobwebs and stuff.


-How about a psychedelic Jupiter 2(The Jefferson Sub-light Spaceship?)

-Or, a 007 spy version(from "The Green Alien who Loved Me", tricked out with ejection seats, etc.)

-A Barbie and Ken 'vacation in space' version.

-An all-Presidential crew version(people have got to know, if their President is a pilot. Well, I'm not a pilot...) :dude:


----------



## Lloyd Collins

^^ Now that is true Sci-Fi!


----------



## bert model maker

toyroy said:


> -How about a psychedelic Jupiter 2(The Jefferson Sub-light Spaceship?)
> 
> -Or, a 007 spy version(from "The Green Alien who Loved Me", tricked out with ejection seats, etc.)
> 
> -A Barbie and Ken 'vacation in space' version.
> 
> -An all-Presidential crew version(people have got to know, if their President is a pilot. Well, I'm not a pilot...) :dude:


 barbie and ken in space, that would have to go along with the new "divorce barbie" thats the one that comes with all her stuff and all of kens stuff that she gets to keep.


----------



## toyroy

model maker said:


> barbie and ken in space, that would have to go along with the new "divorce barbie" thats the one that comes with all her stuff and all of kens stuff that she gets to keep.


Yeah. Barbie gets the J2, Ken gets the space pod. No docking privileges, though...


----------



## starmanmm

All I can say is great work and that it has been fun watching this being built!!


----------



## bert model maker

Steve244 said:


> Very cool. Makes me want to raid my stash for the sole J2 on the bottom of the pile.
> 
> (winders! it needs winders!)


 i agree !! great job robert


----------



## toyroy

Thanks, Robert. I think that's a wrap, guys...


----------



## bert model maker

will the finishe project update be posted on cultmans lost in space models page ?


----------



## Robert Hargrave

I will forward Finished photos to the J-2 page, and a set to Steve also, that is when I finish the last bits.


----------



## bert model maker

outstanding work robert, i know how much i detailed mine and that was a major endeavour but yours !! what a job !!!


----------



## abacero

lastguardian said:


> Here are some views of my in-progress J2, which I woefully have neglected of late:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pilot's seat is scratch built, as are a lot of the bulkheads and other details. The figures are Plastruct 1/60 scale. The empty space behind the 'General Alarm' housing will hold the disassembled chariot (which I derived from the PL cyclops/chariot kit, and is already prepared).
> 
> I haven't worked on this project in a while, but I'll get back to it one of these days...
> 
> Shane



Hi, Shane!

I am working myself in a J-2 and I was amazed with your job with the additional walls and the General Alarm signal, as well as the porthole besides the main hatch. Can you give me some advise how to work on those parts?

Thank you.

Best regards,

Alberto

_"There's always possibilities".- Spock_


----------

