# Secrets Viper MkII



## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

So in 2 weeks i'm picking up the moebius MkII Viper.

I've started work already on the electrical system for lighting the little bugger.

Youtube playlist of progress here.
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1ja0k2ccCftxjGftKGNHmQuPc5sALPZr

I'm going to be using paragraphix photoetch cockpit and detail set for this as well.

The overall lighting plan is to have the cockpit controls lit up with fiber optics and of course, the engines.

I'm not sure how im going to be building her, as in landed or flight. It depends on what i can mock up for "fuel hose" and "power line" into the craft as if she was in the hangar bay.

I'm giving her a custom stand because no offence to moebius, i cant stand those plastic things this kit comes with.

I'm not sure if i will be weathering it or not either really.

I think the most noticable thing on this model will be the lit up wing tips instead of painted tips.

Anyway, heres the playlist on my youtube for the model.






If anyone has any tips for the model, feel free to pop them up.

Also, if anyone knows of uk websites that sell fiber optic strands i would be grateful. i can only find it on ebay and well, bleh lol.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

You can find my Viper build here.....

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=312750

For fibre optics try trawling through your local pound shops for xmas lights being sold off cheap....I got six fibre optic lamps just after Halloween for a pound each which yielded a lot of strands....:thumbsup:


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Awesome work there.

I'm a little curious about lighting up the screens, but cant work on that till i get the kit in my hands.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

The best way to light the screens is to construct a small styrene box behind the instrument panel then light it with two 3mm white LED's pointing sideways into the box...i.e. at 90 degrees to the back of the panel....this floods the box with white light but avoids the 'hot spots' of light that you get if you shine them directly on the screens.
Use self adhesive aluminium tape (available from plumbing merchants....but also possibly in Aldi at the moment) to cover the outside of the box to avoid light leaks.


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

awesome stuff. thanks miniature sun.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here is the easiest and a very nice way to light your Viper.
Starling Tech just released a drop in light kit for the MK_*VII*_. It will also fit all the 1/32nd scale Vipers out there...sorry.. Too many plastic fumes in the house today
http://www.starling-tech.com/index1.php?id=viper

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

sorry, but thats quite bad. I will stick to my own electronics for my models rather than these "kits"


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Okay, I've remade the lighting loom.

I added 2 white leds for lighting the cockpit screens, used a smaller gauge wire and cleaned things up a bit.

You can see the LED bundle for the optics, the other 2 wires in the grips are for the engine leds and the red and black are power supply.

The wire actually came from an old donor computer. The "front panel I/O" cables are perfect for small scale modelling. If you take the motherboard header plastics off, you can slide a resistor leg inside it, crimp, heatshrink and done! Something for you all to remember  They also tend to have multiple color wires inside too!



















I think it looks alot better and with a much lower profile for going into the model.

Just need to add in the engine lighting and the blinking led which will feed the fiber optics for the wing tips.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Rather than creating a loom I find it much easier to pre-solder overlength feeds to the LED's then fit them individually to the kit....once everything is in place it's a simmple matter of connecting up the common feeds using 3A connector blocks and attaching them to the +/- feeds from the power source.


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Nah alot easier for me to make a loom, test fit and adjust if needs be. It also gives me a chance to ensure everything works together prior to fitting.


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Been working on a stand for this model.

I wanted something with a slightly industrial look to it, so I found an old ABS enclosure that was a pretty good size, approx 20cm wide, 15 deep. Took the top half of it, took the front and cut that in half, stuck in a hole, added toggle switch, boom. Pretty much done.

Might add some leds along the front/back edges of it. I dont know yet as it will probably be lit from above for viewing lights when it ends up in a cabinet anyway.

Post a picture of it later on.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

secretreeve said:


> Nah alot easier for me to make a loom, test fit and adjust if needs be. It also gives me a chance to ensure everything works together prior to fitting.


I don't think there's a right/wrong way as long as the effect turns out as the builder had hoped......:thumbsup: I find that the kit drives my approach, sometimes I can get away with adding the wires to the LEDs ahead of time, other times, like with my Centurion, the LEDs had to be glued to the optic lens first and then wired. I tried wiring then gluing and I hated the way they looked, so I had to start over with a new head, what a pain.......:drunk: I also went with 16 LEDs and made my own board, it will go in the chest with the other electronics. Sorry for going OT.....


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'll post pics of *my* build here too so you can benefit from my trials and tests..

Steve


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Log a new thread with lots of piccies and videos.

I do however have a request, When you receive your kit, can you measure the inside of the engine exhaust cans and let me know the diameter of them where they fix to the hull?

I need to make up some little disks to hold the 3 leds per engine 

TES, your completely right, there is no right way. It's completely dependant on the model. My partners doing a cylon soon and is bugging me to do the electronics, what guage wire is that your using? and what type?


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

Primitive stand. The model will hang over the sides a little, probably about 5cm either side.










Nice industrial look to it.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

secretreeve said:


> My partners doing a cylon soon and is bugging me to do the electronics, what guage wire is that your using? and what type?


It's 33AWG Mag-Wire, some people don't like working with it due to the insulating varnish, but I've worked with it for so long that it's not a problem. 
I look forward to your take on the Centurion. Be sure to post pictures......:wave:


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

I'll probably follow the same as yours, SMD's and circuit in the chest. seems the most logical and easiest method to do it really. power wires run down through the legs to copper pads on the feet with matching pads on a base where a psu plugs in via 2.5mm jack and socket. All assembly of the model and paint will be up to darren though. But i like logging my electronics faffing so i'll get some pics.

I have a few models lined up this year, Viper, E-refit, JJprise, galactica and pegasus (both moebius when pegs released)


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

latest video.


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

minor update on this, there will be bigger updates next week as model kit comes in monday/tuesday

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-b033n6INg


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