# Slowly Starting HO Speedway



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

After months of contemplation, I’ve started construction of an HO speedway. I’ve been following the track building threads and I’m in awe of the talent and dedication to the hobby of the HobbyTalk community. It’s also brought back memories of how satisfying it is to create things and I need a hobby that I can do at home. I have been racing 10th Scale R/C electric cars, but you can’t really run them in your house (at least not mine!). 

The first challenge was to find a location and set a rough size. The basement is a logical location, but I already occupy half the basement with a woodshop. 










The kids have a quarter of the basement as a playroom and the remaining quarter was filled with my wife’s craft supplies and general storage. I was able to convince my wife to give up half her craft area. This left approximately 7’ x 12’ for a slot car track – more than enough for a 4’ x 8’ layout and maybe more!










Now I need a suitable table. The standard 4x4 table legs with a 1x4 or 2x4 frame with a ¾” plywood top are way over the top! I can’t figure out why so many build tables that would support a small car! I love the portability and elegance of Scaf’s tables. What do I find when I clean out my newly claimed part of the basement? A six foot folding table. If I can add wheels and a larger top it will be perfect. Scrounging through my spare parts, I find some old casters with sockets and voila, the sockets fit perfectly.










Digging through my woodpile, I find a full 4x8 sheet of OSB. OSB would not be satisfactory by itself, but supported by the folding table… The table edge looks too thin, so I think I’ll add some 2x2’s to give it more heft. This will also give me something to attach driver’s stations, sideboards, etc. to. I think I’ll cover the OSB with a sheet of homasote or rigid insulation.










The table needs a barrier to keep the cars from meeting certain death upon hitting the concrete floor! While browsing through Lowes, I found plastic snap-in gutter filters. They are 6” wide and come in 3’ lengths. With a little experimentation, the gutter filters are fashioned into an attractive barrier.










Now that I have a suitable table, I can experiment with track layouts. I purchased the AFX Super International Set and we’ve had a fun time racing on the dining room table. I see I need more track!

Having the table on wheels is a godsend...it makes getting to all sides of the table pretty easy. Thank you Scaf!

I still need to cover the OSB and I think a timing & scoring system is in order to help shake down the track layouts.


----------



## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Great start - love the casters on a folding table :thumbsup:


----------



## smalltime (Jun 3, 2006)

LMK if you need track sections.
Looks great!

Tim


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Looks like a great start RB. :thumbsup: 
Way ahead of the game here, but, can't wait to see the scenery!

Rich


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob:
You wasted no time getting to it, looks great
Ray


----------



## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

Now the fun starts with laying the track and testing each layout. 
Keep us posted on any progress and don't be skimpy on the pics.

Armando


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Thanks for all the words of encouragement!

Tonight my two daughters, ages 10 & 12, and I moved the track from the dining room table to the new table in the basement. The girls couldn’t decide between “England” and “Hungary” so we combined their favorite elements from each. We ended up with a tight twisty layout without enough track to extend the full 8’ length of the table (more track is on the way!).










A few observations: the England corkscrew had relatively few de-slots; the most troublesome turns were the ¼ turns, especially the 6” radius; Super G+ cars are insanely fast, yet stick like glue; AW T-jets are too fast with a 22V wall-wart and set controllers…it’s like an on/off switch and on is too fast for the tight turns. My 10-year old and I raced for a good half-hour testing AW T-jets and Super G+. 












1976Cordoba said:


> Great start - love the casters on a folding table :thumbsup:


The casters are fantastic...tonight's layout put the driver's stations along the wall...oops. No problem...just slide the table to the other side of the room!



smalltime said:


> LMK if you need track sections.
> Looks great!
> 
> Tim


Tim - thanks for the offer. I've ordered another set, but I'll contact you if I still need more!



NTxSlotCars said:


> Looks like a great start RB. :thumbsup:
> Way ahead of the game here, but, can't wait to see the scenery!
> 
> Rich


Rich - I can't wait to start building scenery! I spent part of this evening pouring over this month's Walther's flyer looking for inspiration. I also bought a couple of 1/64 scale "Pit Row" dioramas. These should fit perfectly as I'm going for a contemporary look and, even though it will be a road course, I'm leaning towards a NASCAR theme.










Work will probably keep me busy for the rest of the week, but this weekend will be time to experiment with some larger layouts. Hopefully I’ll have a working timing & scoring system (I have one lane working on the bench).

Bob B.


----------



## resinmonger (Mar 5, 2008)

When your kids (boys, girls or both) are racing slot cars with you, you're living a dream, man!


----------



## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

rbrunne1 said:


> I love the portability and elegance of Scaf’s tables.
> 
> Having the table on wheels is a godsend...it makes getting to all sides of the table pretty easy. Thank you Scaf!


Made my day! Thank you! 

If you haven't done something already, you might cut some small 2"x2"x4" pieces of wood, and glue them to the underside of the table top, making a small frame for the top to hug the folding table, so when you go to move the track, the top doesn't slide on the folding table.

Track looks good - glad you found something in my threads to utilize.


----------



## rideinstile (Dec 26, 2007)

Wow!!! You have some great ideas. I built mine on an old kitchen table that was no longer in use, the base is great, but for a 4x12 I needed extra legs, unfortunately all I had was 1x2 furring strips, which I used for the sides and legs, it's fine if it's in one place, but a pain to move, I'm probably going to have to redo it this winter. Really nice idea with the folding table and the wheels, that is great. Keep posting pics, I like the ideas, Dave:thumbsup:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Weekend Update*

My track order arrived so we set-out to build a layout that fills the table. After reviewing the 4x8 layouts on HoSlotCarRacing.com, we decided upon the Elm Grove 32 Layout, however, we don’t have enough 15” or 18” curves, so we modified the layout substituting 12” and 9” curves. If we like the flow, I suppose I’ll order the larger curves.










We assembled the layout and spent a good part of the morning running around the circuit, even in both directions. I still need to get a sheet of Homasote for the top, but there are only a couple of local suppliers and their not real convenient to get to. The cats are fascinated by the racing slot cars.

I spent the afternoon assembling reed switches for timing and scoring as I want to see how lap times vary in each lane to help assess the layout.










I’ve studied the threads here on HobbyTalk and used the Minitronics “N Gauge” reed switches; if the switches work at all, only about 90% of the laps are counted. This is becoming a frustrating experience. I tried Slotrace Manager and Laptimer 2000. It doesn’t seem that this should be this difficult…oh well…my wife thinks I should just buy a system. At least the weekend wasn’t a total loss. As the room now serves as a craft room and slot car room, my wife asked for a TV for the room, so we picked-up a 26” LCD TV and mounted it on the wall. She can watch her soaps during the day and I can catch a ball game or race.










Next week, I hope to pick up a sheet of Homasote and paint it green. I find the current layout a little boring with too many straights and sweeping turns. I liked the corkscrew section from last week’s layout, so I melded the corkscrew to the modified Elm Grove Layout. 










It looks like another busy week at work, but hopefully we'll spend part of next weekend continuing to test the modified Elm Grove Layout or building a new one.

Bob B.


----------



## resinmonger (Mar 5, 2008)

I like to use an optical scoring system. LEDs and Photocells are about as user friendly as you can get.


----------



## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

>> I’ve studied the threads here on HobbyTalk and used the Minitronics “N Gauge” reed switches; if the switches work at all, only about 90% of the laps are counted. This is becoming a frustrating experience. I tried Slotrace Manager and Laptimer 2000. It doesn’t seem that this should be this difficult…

It can be frustrating to troubleshoot no doubt. Since you are getting some lap counts, then I would concentrate on the Laptimer 2000 software settings. Make an assumption that you have installed and wired the reeds correctly, and play around with some of the LT settings. I remember doubting everything I had done, until I made the correct software setting adjustment, and every lap started to get counted. I forget which setting it was that made things work for me, but it was one I didn't even think to change initially. I don't have the software or my track up to help with more details.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Scaf - Thanks for the advice. I'll look at it this weekend.


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Two things.

First, folding table legs can be bought by themselves and attached to a 4x8 (or other size) board. You don't have to buy an entire table; of course, if you've already got one and don't need it for anything else, then you are set.

I would also suggest you think about using cheap carpeting on the table surface you already have rather than homosote. Carpeting really deadens the sound (as long as you don't nail/screw through it) and you can get a color you like. Get a carpet with a tight weave so you don't end up with lint filled gears should you ever deslot.

Other than that, you go to it!

Joe


----------



## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Grandcheapskate said:


> Two things.
> 
> First, folding table legs can be bought by themselves and attached to a 4x8 (or other size) board. You don't have to buy an entire table; of course, if you've already got one and don't need it for anything else, then you are set.


I think he already had the table like you stated, but it is good point out that legs can be bought by themselves. I used them on one of the tracks I made - I think they were about $20 for a pair of them. However, if you decide to use hollow core doors, then you might run into some extra work in attaching the legs to the hollow door. For a few bucks more I recommend getting a plastic folding table - legs are better quality, and the table can be used for other purposes if the need arises.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

The table was already where the slot car table was going to go, so I either had to find a place to store it or incorporate it into the slot car table. Believe me; I don’t need any more stuff to store!

I'm very satisfied with the table. It’s built entirely from material on hand (except for the gutter guards for the "catch fence"). It cost me $16 out-of-pocket to build. It rolls around smoothly on the floor making it easy to pull out to lay track, it’s a nice height to sit at while you drive and it's sturdy and stable!


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Speedway Construction Update*

It’s another rainy day here in upstate NY, so I thought it would be a good time to update the status of work on our speedway. I picked up a sheet of Homasote and painted it green (It’s a little darker than I imagined, but it was only a $1 for a quart in the “Oops” section at Lowe’s). I also found a quart of brown that complemented the side barriers to paint the edge of the table. With the table all painted, it was time to assemble a layout. We found our previous two layouts rather boring, so we assembled the “4-Way Challenge”. 










Racing around the track was fun, but we needed a timing and scoring system. Unable to get a homemade one to work reliably, I followed the TM’s advice and ordered the HO Timing Package from Trackmate Racing. It worked perfectly straight out of the box. Now we can accurately count up to 3,000 laps! 

Our stable of cars is still pretty small (and all box-stock): 4-Tomy Super G-Plus; 2-T-Jet 500 Ultra G and 1-X-Traction Ultra G. The G-Pluses are insanely fast. T-Jet’s & XT’s require much more patience. I just ordered 6 Mattel 440x2 chassis. Now all I need are bodys that fit!

We found all the cars too fast with the wall-warts, so I hooked up a 13.8V, 14A power supply I had laying around and that made the cars a little easier to drive with the stock controllers. With the single power supply, I could connect the relay that came with the Trackmate System. All that’s left is to connect the track call button.

We’ve enjoyed the 4-Way Challenge and, literally, wore through two sets of pick-up shoes! My daughter has asked if we can keep it as our permanent layout! The cars are much faster than the length of the layout and I would like to modify the layout to use larger radius (18” & 15”) or banked turns at the end of the long straight to increase the cornering speed. I would appreciate any thoughts or comments.










I’m now thinking about driver’s station. I found a link to Philippe’s “Complete” Driver’s Station (http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/Driver_Station.htm). It has several features I find desirable: it’s fused, adjustable voltage, and direction switch. I’m thinking to add a track call switch to each driver’s station.










It’s also time to think about landscaping and scenery. I see the back straight elevated with a hill in the center of the table. If I ever improve my Google Sketch-up skills, I’ll post a rendering. I’m concerned that the layout leaves little room for landscaping such as a pit/paddock area or grandstands.

Today we had our first visitor try out the speedway as my daughter had a friend over. The girls raced many heats including a 100 lap race!










Work will probably keep me busy most of the week, but if the weather leaves us indoors, next weekend should find me in the basement trying to beat my 10-year old at a race!


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

I like it.

Gonzo


----------



## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

looking good!


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Looking good!! And nice to see kids with the "right" controllers in their hands!! :lol:


----------



## Omega (Jan 14, 2000)

Love the pic of your daughter and her friend, the race must have been a real nail biter. PM me your name and address and I will send you out a care package.

Dave


----------



## demether (Aug 26, 2008)

you don't need resistors to wire your reed switchs. Reed switchs are just...magnetic mechanical switchs, I don't see what is the use of a resistor here 

I didn't install any resistor on my setup, and I 've 0 false laps or missed laps counted. Perhaps it should help.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

demether said:


> you don't need resistors to wire your reed switchs. Reed switchs are just...magnetic mechanical switchs, I don't see what is the use of a resistor here
> 
> I didn't install any resistor on my setup, and I 've 0 false laps or missed laps counted. Perhaps it should help.


I can't seem to find the reference, but I recall reading that to protect the computer's parallel port, you should install a small (I think I used 100 ohm) resistor in series with the switch.

In any event, I purchased Trackmate and I can spend my time racing instead of scratching my head wondering why the timing system doesn't work


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*First Competition*

Our HO Speedway saw it's first friendly competition over Labor Day weekend as Ray & Jack, two of my best friends, stopped over to check out the progress on the speedway. After about 300 laps of practice (and a couple of adult beverages) we settled on SG+ cars with F1 bodies.

The first race was a 100 Lap sprint without rotating lanes...as the race was won by Jack, the rookie, it became apparent that one lane had a significant advantage. 

Next we did 4-heats of 25 Laps, rotating through all four lanes. Due to the luck of the draw, I finished the rotation in the "fast lane" and went from last to first :thumbsup: After some good natured ribbing, it was time to enjoy the hors’ devours prepared by my wife and fire up the grill to cook some steaks and brauwurst...let the feast begin.


Once we had our fill of dinner and dessert, it was time for a rematch! During the second race we learned that the inside lane is the most challenging and slowest. So we set-up Trackmate for a three lane rotation (or so I thought). After the first heat...the rotation was all messed up  After a few minutes, I straightened out the software (moral of the story...always view the rotation schedule before starting the race ) Ray had won the first heat, so now we were all winners :woohoo:

After resetting Trakmate (and checking the rotation schedule), we were set for three 25 lap heats! It was close, as Ray and I had the same number of laps, but I was ahead by a few seconds! 

The evening a success, we joined our wives for a few more drinks and snacks before retiring for the evening :hat:


----------



## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Sounds like a fun day. :thumbsup:

You know it doesn't count when you win on your own track, right?


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

1976Cordoba said:


> You know it doesn't count when you win on your own track, right?


Oh, I know... 

It was just fun to have a few people over to share in the fun


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Update*

The speedway is progressing much slower than I envisioned as work and family take precedent.

We didn't have much to do this weekend (besides cleaning up the leaves that have fallen), so I set about trying a few different layouts.

First Change - Add 18" Curves to existing layout
I thought that changing the curves at the end of the long straight would make the track faster and more fun. I was wrong on both counts. Laps times were not faster and with the additional speed carried into the infield section, it was hard to slow down enough to keep from deslotting. My daughter and I gave this layout thumbs down 










Second Change - Straighten Out Infield
If the infield section was the problem, let's change it. I straightened out the infield section. It solved the deslotting problem, but wasn't much fun. Thumbs down again 










Third Change - More curves 
Well, if we liked the curvy infield, maybe we'll like more curves! NOT! The 6" curves are too tight and it was hard to use either the inner or outer lanes. The two inside lanes were better, but this was not a winner 










This project consumed this weekend's free time. During the week, I'll have to restore the track to its previous configuration. Now what am I going to do with 4-18" curves? 

Until Next time - Happy Motoring :thumbsup:

Bob B.


----------



## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Bob 2 I am...*

Nice to see another Bob having some fun with slots. Great track build read....a story worth reading. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Our 7 year old daughter Bree doesn't care about slot cars much at all but, thank God for our 6 year old son Fletcher that loves to race with Dad (me) and even ask me to race downstairs now and then. Lets go son!!  

Bob...I am bob too...zilla


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

bobhch said:


> Nice to see another Bob having some fun with slots. Great track build read....a story worth reading. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> Our 7 year old daughter Bree doesn't care about slot cars much at all but, thank God for our 6 year old son Fletcher that loves to race with Dad (me) and even ask me to race downstairs now and then. Lets go son!!
> 
> Bob...I am bob too...zilla


Bob - My 13-yo daughter doesn't have the patience, but my 10-yo has fun racing…although she usually wins! 

We’ve also started customizing some resin cast bodies I picked up off of eBay. I’ll have to start a thread on that project as it progresses. 

I see you've been busy with the landscaping of Las Zillas Speedway...it's looking good. Now that I appear to have settled on a layout, I can move into the landscaping phase, too! :thumbsup:

Bob B.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*New Year Update*

The progress on our model car speedway has been slowed by the holidays and my penchant for taking on too many projects! We haven’t made much progress, but I thought I would share where we are as the New Year begins.

Paige and I went to a local train show for some landscaping inspiration and while there we picked up some landscaping supplies.










I’ve started thinking about driver’s stations. Should I keep it simple – just connections for controllers or should I add a few functions such as voltage adjustment, brake adjustment, direction and/or track call? I’m leaning towards including all of these functions. I made a simple voltage adjustment device using a rotary switch and some diodes. This allows for fixed, repeatable voltage steps.










Santa brought me Model Builder Software from Evan Designs (http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/). The day after Christmas, I whipped up a metal garage in about 45 minutes. I printed the design on plain paper and glued it to shirt box. I’m quite please with the result. It’ll look much better printed on photo paper and adding a few details.










Santa also brought a few banners to decorate the slot car room. It sure looks racy now!










I’m still not settled on a track layout. The current layout doesn’t leave much room for a pit/paddock area – a must for any speedway! Visiting Stump City helps clarify the landscaping goals by narrowing them down to 2-4 distinct areas. As I’m modeling a speedway on race day, so I’m focusing on the following: Pit/Paddock, RV/Camper Area, Grandstands and, at the request of my 10-yo, “Pagitty” World – she gets to landscape this area. The track needs a few rolling hills and tress to finish it off.

More track is on the way so I can try out a few new layouts, so I hope to report more in a few weeks!


----------



## Hittman101 (Oct 21, 2009)

Wow!! It look great keep up the great work!!


----------



## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*that metal shed is nifty...thinking about it now...hmmmmm*

Bob,

Thanks for posting the Model Builder Software link. Very interesting....I'm thinking, thinking...still thinking...

Bob...still thinking...zilla


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

That building software does yield decent results. From a cost/value prespective and time investment point of view it's a win win!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## hwsascha (May 27, 2008)

here you can find some paper buildings for free

http://www.carrera4fun.de/

side is on german and buildings are for 1:32 scale so far I remember so you have to scale them down in print menu


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob: where is the 18 car and the 5 car. Enough of that 24 car.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Driver’s Station Construction*

After much contemplation and planning, I started construction of driver’s stations. The current table did not have any place to accommodate driver’s stations, so I had to construct a shelf to support them. 

The shelf is constructed of 3/16” tempered hardboard supported on ¾” poplar supports. I chose hardboard to keep the weight of the shelf down. I plan to add a panel along the front for additional stability.

I added two color-coordinated cup holders (one for the controller), color-coordinated track call button and room for controller hook-ups (I'll describe the wiring in a future installment). Below are a few pictures:

Red-Lane Station (No Hook-ups yet)










Panorama of all 4 Stations (No Hook-ups yet)










Below are sources for the supplies:

Jumbo Aluminum RED Poker Table Cup Holder (other colors available)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014BBFIU/ref=oss_product

Arcade Push Buttons Buttons

http://cgi.ebay.com/ARCADE-PUSH-BUT...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca8ad34a6

Next installment I’ll describe the wiring :wave:


----------



## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Someone is gonna blast their fist thru that track call button and particle board unless you have it braced from below. Just thinking out loud, based on knowledge of racers - lol.


----------



## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Putting a track call button at the drivers station is absolutely horrible for racing. Only marshals should be able to initiate a track call and only then if:

1) life or limb are in danger
2) a car exits the racing surface and is lost from view (a fat marshal who can't bend over quickly does not constitute "lost from view" - it's a "sorry driver, you wrecked in a bad spot")
3) a wreck in front of the drivers IF there is no driver-side marshal and IF the rear marshals cannot reach the front straight

I'm serious, track calls ruin races and the absolute last place I would ever consider putting a track call button is in front of a driver. That's nuts. Drivers should be driving their own cars and avoid driving driving into wrecks, not participating in calling track calls.


----------



## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

I don't usually race so my question is; What is a "call button" for or do ?


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

1976Cordoba said:


> Someone is gonna blast their fist thru that track call button and particle board unless you have it braced from below. Just thinking out loud, based on knowledge of racers - lol.


This has me thinking of providing more support to the free edge 

I'm also think of effective repair strategies :freak:



AfxToo said:


> Putting a track call button at the drivers station is absolutely horrible for racing. Only marshals should be able to initiate a track call...


Excessive track calls certainly do upset the flow of the race and can make it frustrating; however, I usually have only two or three people racing with no marshalls. We've found using track calls an effective way to self-marshall.


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob: I like the cup holders, great idea drinks not spilled. Alcohol does slow reactions so maybe the call buttons will not be destroyed. Are the call buttons wired to the kitchen for more beer or to stop the cars?


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

jeeper said:


> Bob: I like the cup holders, great idea drinks not spilled. Alcohol does slow reactions so maybe the call buttons will not be destroyed. Are the call buttons wired to the kitchen for more beer or to stop the cars?


Ray - I like the idea of wiring the buttons to call for more beer :lol:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Driver’s Stations*

I looked at all the great prefabricated driver’s stations and I said, “These are good, but I want to have a way to vary the voltage and direction per lane. I’ll just make my own!” :freak:

I was inspired by the driver’s station on Philippe’s 1/43 Slot Car Page. Philippe’s “Complete Driver’s Station” was way over the top, but the “Simplified Driver Station” http://homepage.mac.com/pmarchand/Simpler_Driver_Station.htm was something I could work with 

Here’s the design criteria:

1.	3-Banana Plugs – Wired for Brakes
2.	Fuse Holder
3.	Variable Voltage
4.	Direction Switch

Here’s a picture of all the parts










After making a few sketches, I made a template out of ¼” hardboard 










I mounted the components on the template to check for fit. It’s a tight fit, but it will work



















Note the color coordinated cup holders and track call button 










...more in a minute....


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Driver’s Stations - Part 2*

Now all I have to do is drill the holes in 4 blank outlet covers. This posed a challenge as the holes are all different sizes! I whipped up a quick jig to hold the template in place over the cover so I could drill all of the holes of the same size before changing the drill bit (Note – a drill press makes this much easier). The spacer on top was necessary for the clamp to apply enough pressure to keep everything from moving.










Voila! Four drilled cover plates. I recommend using oversize unbreakable cover plates and drill slowly










Primed and ready for paint 










Next I wired them up! One down three to go










All ready for installation :woohoo:










This was a lot of work. I bet it took me 6 or 7 hours of fabrication time, plus another 4 or 5 hours of planning and building the template :drunk:

Next it’s time to wire the track :wave:


----------



## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Now THAT is slick stuff. Cooool!


----------



## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Boy, those sure came out nice!!!

Rolls


----------



## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

41-willys said:


> I don't usually race so my question is; What is a "call button" for or do ?


In general a track call is for corner marshalls to be used when there are multiple cars deslotted. Hitting the track call button stops track power and pauses the timing program, allowing the marshall to reslot the cars and then restart the race. The best use of a track call button is if you have limited people around for a race and the racers near the ends of the table have to marshall cars. It's about fairness so that the driver marshalling doesn't lose laps while reslotting cars.


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

bob: nice work as usual, I can't wait for an invite to try it out.
Ray


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Slott V said:


> It's about fairness so that the driver marshalling doesn't lose laps while reslotting cars.


Exactly :thumbsup:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

jeeper said:


> bob: nice work as usual, I can't wait for an invite to try it out.
> Ray


Thanks Ray 

Color Guard ends next weekend...let me know when you're free after that :wave:

Bob B.


----------



## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

Thanks Slott V.:wave:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Wiring the Driver’s Stations*

This weekend I tackled the task of wiring the driver’s stations. I had dreaded this task as I am not a big fan of working on my back, but by putting enough slack in, I was able to do most of the wiring sitting down and only had to lie on my back to staple the wires to the underside of the table 

First step was to make some custom power taps. The thought of soldering to plastic track made me nervous, but I see plenty of others who have done it, so I was pretty sure it could be done. I practiced on a few extra 6” curves (we all have them). Here’s the method that seemed to work best:

1.	Strip and tin wires
2.	Clean and apply flux to underside of rails
3.	Build up a blob of molten solder on the tip of the soldering iron
4.	Hold wire in place and carefully place blob of solder over wire and rail until the flux starts to boil
5.	Remove iron and let the joint cool

Here’s what they look like when they’re done 










The top looks good too :thumbsup:
Only a little distortion along the rail










All four power taps










More in a minute...


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Wiring the Driver’s Stations (con't)*

First, I had to shift he track around, mark and drill the holes for the wires and photo sensors (I forgot to take pictures )

With the holes drilled, it was time to thread the power taps through the holes and start wiring :freak:

The white & red wires are the positive (white) & negative (red) from the power supply. The black and red wires are the positive (black) & negative/brakes (red) from the driver’s station.










The underside of the driver’s station. I carried all the color coding through the entire project.










The terminal block is the feed from the power supply. My previous wiring had used conventional DC color coding: red – positive & black – negative. I decided against redoing the wiring, so I had to remember to connect white to red & red to black 

The black square in the red wire is an in-line fuse holder to protect the power supply.

A few staples hold all the wires neatly in place.










All wired up and ready for action :woohoo:

More in a minute...


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Wiring the Driver’s Stations (con't)*

I added a fascia to the front edge. The fascia creates a small lip to keep things from rolling off the shelf. 



















The last touch was to add a clip to hang up the “Gopher Tool”










The rest of the weekend was spent readjusting the track and testing each lane to make sure there was power and no big bumps. A push here and a pull there and all lanes were running as smooth as sectional track can 

Now that the track is more or less fixed (well...at least the front straight is not moving). It's time to think about affixing the track to the table and adding turn borders. I really like the rustic look of cork. I have a few pieces, but I’ll need much more 

That all for this weekend. Until the next installment here in slow-motion land :wave:

Bob B.


----------



## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

I'll probably be soldering power taps within a week or two. Thanks for the excellent pics and timely sharing. 

Your driver's stations look GREAT!


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Looks great Bob! I hear ya on the under the table stuff. That RR Xing of mine had me under the table constantly!! :freak:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

I started installing the cork borders today - I'm shimming it up with self adhesive felt. I needed a jig to quickly cut strips of felt and this is what I came up with. The only drawback is that it's not easily adjustable 

The blocks at the top and bottom space the straight edge the proper distance from the edge of the felt. Hold the straight edge in place and quickly cut a strip of felt. Remove the cut piece and repeat 










The first campers showed up to watch today's practice run. They'd better hope the car stays on the track as there is no fence or guide rail to corral errant vehicles :freak:










Happy Easter to all :wave:

Bob B.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Weekend Update*

The crew has started building the shoulders on the track. Boy are they hard at work 










The ice cream truck stopped by and the crew took a break for some ice cream 










A few die hard fans sat in the grandstand as a vintage GT40 ran some hot laps. They'd better hope he cars stays on the track :freak:










I better go check on the crew to see if they're making good progress :wave:

Bob B.


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Fitting Borders Inside Tight Curves*

Today's project was to fit the cork border inside a 112.5 degree 6" radius turn. It obviously was not simply going to bend around without modification :drunk:










I cut a series of wedges out of the inside edge. The wedges are spaced approximately 3/4" apart. I determined the size by trial and error, but they could be calculated by determining the amount of material that needs to be removed.










To help keep the size and spacing uniform, I made a simple cardboard template.










Here's the finished product fit into my test curve...looks good :thumbsup:










There are a few visible gaps. I may try calculating the required size of each wedge and developing a template in CAD :freak:

Bob B. :wave:


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob: I hope those are union workers and that they are following all proper safety standards. Looking good
Ray


----------



## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Being a Corkaholic...Don't forget...*

The big-scale choo-choo cork comes in larger sheets. Cork flooring comes in big pieces too, as does cork wallcovering. With larger stock to start with, you can cut out entire areas all in one piece instead of the slice method. Most of mine were cut out in continuous pieces. The only thing that kept me from all being one piece is my own cheapness and not wanting to buy that one extra big sheet, so I fudged a couple. btw... You can fill the crack between two joined pieces with glue and then sprinkle cork sandings in the crack. They almost disappear. :thumbsup: *(I used alot of cork... lol)*


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

jeeper said:


> Bob: I hope those are union workers and that they are following all proper safety standards. Looking good
> Ray


Ray - the Speedway has a Project Labor Agreement that requires prevailing wages and project specific safety plan :lol:


----------



## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

tjd241 said:


> The big-scale choo-choo cork comes in larger sheets. Cork flooring comes in big pieces too, as does cork wallcovering. With larger stock to start with, you can cut out entire areas all in one piece instead of the slice method. Most of mine were cut out in continuous pieces. The only thing that kept me from all being one piece is my own cheapness and not wanting to buy that one extra big sheet, so I fudged a couple. btw... You can fill the crack between two joined pieces with glue and then sprinkle cork sandings in the crack. They almost disappear. :thumbsup: *(I used alot of cork... lol)*


...and the resulting benefits are blatantly obvious when viewed from the Good Year Blimp! Unscrimped, nice wide borders, with realistically blended natural looking transitions; AND enough room to swing out and recover a car.


----------



## TopDogger (Apr 17, 2010)

Nice setups! I built my first track layout in the 1960s during the heyday of commercial tracks. I just joined this forum because I'm getting the bug once again.


----------



## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Welcome to HT TopDogger


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

tjd241 said:


> The big-scale choo-choo cork comes in larger sheets. Cork flooring comes in big pieces too, as does cork wallcovering. With larger stock to start with, you can cut out entire areas all in one piece instead of the slice method. Most of mine were cut out in continuous pieces. The only thing that kept me from all being one piece is my own cheapness and not wanting to buy that one extra big sheet, so I fudged a couple. btw... You can fill the crack between two joined pieces with glue and then sprinkle cork sandings in the crack. They almost disappear. :thumbsup: *(I used alot of cork... lol)*


Thanks for the tips Dave


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Progress is still moving slowly, but I thought I'd share my recent work.

I made an attempt at some landscaping using rigid insulation. It was pretty fast, but messy, to carve the foam to the desired shape (the hole in the center is to be a pond). I was pretty happy with the way it turned out for my first attempt!




























I bought a late-model laptop from WesJ (Thanks Wes!), so I could get rid of the separate computer desk and resultant cables.

I built a slide out shelf for the laptop and installed a separate monitor along the backstretch for easy viewing from the driver's station. The computer can be slid back under the table once the race starts 




























I think it's about time for another race event...I guess I'll have to invite some friends over :woohoo:


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Looking great Bob!!! The foam is messy, but if you make your template you can do most of the dirty work off table in most cases, and drop the finished piece right in. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

After a couple of spectacular crashes into the pits, the crew has started building the inside retaining wall along the pits. 
The crew was inspired by Rolls use of plastic lattice from the home store 




























The new wall has the racers excited as the transporters are arriving to unload 










The crew has started building more walls and started grading the surrounding grounds - more pictures to come


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Looking good Bob!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob: I see it is a union job 1 guy working and 2 watching. Looks good, lets get that race going. Maybe we can hire that soccer guy to do the announcing gooooooooooooooooooooal.


----------



## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

That border approach is really working! Looks great, Bob!


----------



## freon (May 19, 2010)

any updates?


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

No real updates...I've purchased some more landscaping supplies and I've been hunting for scale RV's and campers to populate my campground. I have some pictures of recent landscaping I'll have to post.


----------



## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

rbrunne1 said:


> No real updates...I've purchased some more landscaping supplies and I've been hunting for scale RV's and campers to populate my campground. I have some pictures of recent landscaping I'll have to post.


Looks good Bob. There has to be some updates by now. Pretty cold and snowy?


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Landscaping Update*

I continued to experiment with rigid insulation landscaping and I’m getting solid results. I finished the pond and did a hill outside the hairpin turn. 



















I spent this weekend carving a few more elements (note the blue foam).




























As the track is under construction, the wildlife has moved into the shop where it’s warm & dry :lol:
Look for them to move back outside once construction wraps up!










Here’s a shot of pit road during a caution. All the cars are in for fresh tires and fuel.










I think it’s time for my poor speedway to get a name…any suggestions?

Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


----------



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

i do,nt have a cool name fer the trak but, i sure looks very challenging and i see that you,ve spent alot ot time makin it look realistic! it,ll give u more hours of pleasure than u can imagine. the over all lay out is just way nice. keep goin on it(landscaping) but make sure u take time to turn many hot laps and enjoy yer creation! i like the elivations and bridges best. the gator pond is cool too.


----------



## clemedc (Feb 2, 2011)

I really love what you have done with the track, good job


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Robertring Update*

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions for a name for the track. I like the sound of Robertring – inspired by the famed Nürburgring.

I’ve been working on the landscaping & I thought I would share the process of turning blue foam into hills. First, I prime the foam with a light color latex paint. I buy small cans in the “Oops” section of Lowes. The sample size cans are 50 cents each and will cover several pieces of foam.










Next, I painted slate gray where rock or stone is supposed to be. I typically use acrylic craft paint.










Using a foam brush, I sponge on a coat of raw sienna, burnt sienna & burnt umber. Going for a camouflage look.




























After painting, spray on a little water and sprinkle on ground cover. I used Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf (Burnt Grass) & Fine Turf (Green Grass). I liked the look of sprinkling the coarse turf on heavy and a light dusting of the fine turf. After getting the turf materials on, spray with water to set in place and then saturate with Scenic Cement.











- more to come -


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Robertring Update (Con't)*

For this small area I shaped a hill out of modeling clay. Thanks Rich (NTxSlotCars) :thumbsup:










I’m still working on the rock cut. After the slate gray, I sprayed a mist coat of Panzer Gray (rattle can), followed by a custom mixed airbrushed mist coat (raw sienna, true ochre & white to get a lighter shade of brown). I'm quite pleased with the result 

I’m going to make this a snow capped mountain where the polar bears can roam.










Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


----------



## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

LOOKING GOOD!! :thumbsup:

Wes


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

WOW Rb. This track is looking FANTASTIC. :thumbsup:


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Excellent foam work Bob!!! That rock cut especially!! I'm really itching to do stuff on my new layout, but can't just yet. Maybe Uncle Sam will help get the project rolling...


----------



## Ovalhead (Nov 20, 2010)

Old US Rt.9 Raceway Park ( Great looking Speedway )


----------



## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Great landscaping work, Bob! Love what you did!!


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

If you're in the Albany, NY area, stop by on 3/20/2011 - see the link below for more information :freak:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=319838


----------



## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

I don't like a track with scenery . However , Your subtle approach is well taken . Nice job .

Gonzo


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Update!*

I added a row of trees along the backstretch. I'm looking for a scene to place behind the trees to add depth and I have to get to work on the grandstand in turns 1 & 2.




























Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Sweeeeeeet!!! While scenery can be a distraction, and can be a hassle when there's a big mix up, it does add to the enjoyment too!! Looks great Bob!!! I'm still at square one with my track. I have a new track plan, and tweaked it a bit to accommodate all the scenic elements I want, but getting past that first step has been a rough road. I want to use foam board, but the cost is out of my budget. I did just recently inherit a big box of plaster of paris...I wonder if the TM would notice a few sets of bed sheets disappearing?? :lol: Got to price a big roll of bubble wrap next time I'm at wally world....


----------



## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

Here is a cool place to try.Alot of nice backdrops. Hope this helps you out.
>Tom<


http://www.backdropwarehouse.com/SkEastHillsGrp2.htm#244B


----------



## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bob,

Heck yeah! You are putting the pedal to the metal on your layout & it all looks GREAT!

Bob...way to go...zilla


----------



## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Lookin good Robert. :thumbsup:... Any fish left in the pond or did the gator get'em?? :thumbsup:


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

*Building a Grandstand*

Here's a couple of pictures of my attempt at a grandstand around the big sweeping turn. The idea was inspired by Dslot's shallow grandstand. I plan to paint them silver to resemble the aluminum bleachers that are prevalent at today's 1:1 racetracks.



















Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

And the crowd goes wild!!!!! Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhh!!!

Looks great Bob!!! Can't wait to see the big picture! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*2 suggestions...*



rbrunne1 said:


>


Lower the ticket prices for this section or maybe consider free beers? - lol

Lookin great Robert... keep'em coming. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Lookin' great, Bob. Curved grandstands are uber cool!!


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob: when is the next race


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

How's Memorial Day Weekend look on your schedule?


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

not going to be around road trip with the bride


----------



## jeeper (Oct 21, 2006)

Bob: you have a pm


----------



## Dusted (Feb 25, 2010)

Great looking track, nice work


----------



## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Any updates on this work of art?


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Wow...it's been a whole year since I posted anything...where did the time go :freak:

I've been trying to build a stadium grandstand for the big curve at one end, but I haven't been happy with the results and I've run out of ideas 

In addition, I picked up a new hobby: 1995 Corvette LT-1 Coupe










I have been picking up some scenery. I couldn't resist this. I'll set it up in a parking lot of the campground. 










Speaking of the campground, there's another mental block for me...finding contemporary realistic motorhomes and travel trailers to populate the campground. 

I also picked up a Cabover US-1 Tractor to experiment on making a track cleaner. I may need a couple more chassis and/or trailers.










Finally, I'm now hooked on "Super Stock" cars, but I can't run them on my track until I get a new power supply 

Two boxes already arrived this week and one more is on the way, so I need to lay low for a couple of weeks (I could just ship it to friend's house...hmmmm) 

However, the Corvette was a pretty big surprise for the TM, so what's a power supply 

Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Webshots no longer hosts pictures, so all the links say, "Temporarily Unavailable". 

I copied the pictures to photobucket and I'm fixing the links - this is work...:freak:


----------



## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

While the pix are unavailable I enjoyed reviewing the early years!


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Whew...I think I fixed all the picture links 

It was a fun trip down memory lane 

I did get a 0-30V, 10A Power Supply










The owner of our race track sold his track, so I've been hosting races. Nice looking crew, eh?










I have learned that 4 competitive Super Stock slot cars and scenery don't mix too well 

Maybe I'll start another track :freak:

Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


----------



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Bob, I recently bought THAT exact power supply.
stay tuned for a three speed drag strip involving that power supply.


----------



## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks for adding the pics. I love the set up for the driver stations. I'm going to have to borrow some ideas on the track layout too.


----------



## timmytorr (Jun 12, 2011)

Thanks Bob! I too love the driver stations it looks great, I’m in the early stages of building my track I am wanting to put in variable resistors on the driver stations so you can adjust the coast on the cars I was wondering what kind did you use and were did you purchase.

Anyone else has any suggestions on variable resistors.

Thanks,
Timmy


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Timmy - I used rotary switches with diodes for the voltage control...much less expensive than a potentiometer or rheostat, although it won't work to adjust the brake and/or coast.

This article includes specs for everything you might want to include in a driver's station: http://www.philippejmarchand.com/Slots/page21/page34/page67/page67.html


----------



## timmytorr (Jun 12, 2011)

rbrunne1 said:


> Timmy - I used rotary switches with diodes for the voltage control...much less expensive than a potentiometer or rheostat, although it won't work to adjust the brake and/or coast.
> 
> This article includes specs for everything you might want to include in a driver's station: http://www.philippejmarchand.com/Slots/page21/page34/page67/page67.html


Thanks Bob! The link has a lot of great information.

Timmy


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Work has slowed down as the Robertring is being used for competitive Super Stock class racing. These fast inlines, corner marshals, etc. conflict with a scenic track. Racing has required a few changes.

Power supply: The powerful traction magnets of the Super Stock cars needed more voltage than the 13.8V supply that I was using. The new power supply is bigger and needed its own shelf for support.



Racing also showed the need for track call buttons at marshaling locations. Here's one of the new switches. The toggle switch turns off the track call buttons at the driver's stations.


----------



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Hey i like the toggle switch idea.
Had a little guy out for the morning,and i can see i should add a switch to disable the track call button in front of him,lol


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

rbrunne1 said:


> Whew...I think I fixed all the picture links
> 
> It was a fun trip down memory lane
> 
> ...


Great looking track! My money is on the guy with the high dollar controller.
Great racing in a small space. I've been wanting to recreate a 4x8 track I once had....


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Wow! I can't believe it's been three years from the last post! Work on Robertring has been indefinitely suspended as I've moved and started racing with the Tri-State HO Racing Club. I now have a 16' x 30" wide test track so I can get magnet cars up-to-speed, It's a two lane set-up and I've cannibalized parts off of the smaller track like the power supply and trackmate. By the looks of it, I'm not the only one on an extended hiatus.

Be well all you slot car racers!


----------



## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

I've started an N-Scale model railroad as I missed working on scenery. I've set up a blog to chronicle it's construction:

https://hvrr.wordpress.com/

Drive fast and take chances...:tongue:


----------



## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

You can use diodes as a brake control, just turn them around the other way. I suppose that diodes could also be used in a coast control circuit, but the steps would be too wide to get perfect control. I prefer to use a controller with brake and coast controls, having those features built into the driver's stations can cause problems if you do races with lane rotations.


----------



## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

rbrunne1 said:


> I've started an N-Scale model railroad as I missed working on scenery. I've set up a blog to chronicle it's construction:
> 
> https://hvrr.wordpress.com/
> 
> Drive fast and take chances...:tongue:


Cool, rbr... Love me some N-Scale trains... Have a bunch of
Aurora Postage Stamp and old MiniTrix ones...

Will be fun to follow along with your Blog...

John
.


----------

