# translucent tjet chassis



## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

Is there,any advantage to those translucent tjet chassis'? Or are they just a gimmick? Ed


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## beast1624 (Mar 28, 2009)

They seem to be a bit more true and run pretty good from what we have seen in our club.


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

They seem to be a harder plastic and have less flex. The axle and armature bushings seem to be smoother and hold oil a bit longer. And they do look pretty sharp.

-Paul


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Definitely less flex & stiffer material.


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## mrtjet (Dec 3, 2013)

Are they legal in any of the big organizations. Does any one consider them legal for they're races.


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Does the harder plastic with less flex have any handling effect???
The chassis would be legal in our club, LIMCRA, in the Fracas class which
allows any AW/JL T-Jet chassis without traction mag.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I'm having a good deal of trouble working with mine...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=413191

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=413566

Joe


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## TeamMadMarsupial (Dec 23, 2012)

Finally got to try building one of these translucent chassis and I"ve got to say, it turned out quite well. I did not go stock with it, but also did not go crazy and it runs like a champ!
I dropped in a set of Dash magnets and a Mean Green arm, installed a brass tube front axle carrier with an RT HO indy front, a set of BSRT dbl flange rear wheels and after trying about a half dozen sets of old slip ons I had lying around, decided on this white set. I took the step out of a set of stock AW shoes and tried my first attempt at bending the top of the window. As with most of my cars, I pulled the brushes and replaced with a set of slightly stretched T-Jet springs. After topping it off with an old GT40 body I dremmeled up a few years back, it was time to do some testing. I was pretty good right out of the box and I took it along last night to offer it up as a loaner.
We tweaked on it through the night and it made two features and was in a multi lap spirited duel for the lead of a feature before a spin ended it's night. All in all, I'll call it a good debut and I'm looking forward to a bit more tunning and testing to squeeze out whatever it's potential may be.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

That sounds like you replaced just about everything. What is left from stock? Seems like just the pickup springs, rear axle, bare chassis and gearplate (but not armature).

My issue with these chassis has been trying to use them in stock form without having to replace parts.

I would also be interested as to whether this is a mold #1 or #2 chassis.

Joe


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## TeamMadMarsupial (Dec 23, 2012)

I bought the chassis as blanks, gear plates as separate part. Had to build up from there. Sorry to not answer the question of how they run as stock. All I know is that it took much less effort to get a well running car than with the regular black AW chassis. The changes I made were towards the rule package we run in our club. Have a handfull more that I am looking forward to building.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Ahhh...that makes a difference.

It looks from your photo as if the gearplate is raised toward the rear of the chassis on the driver's side - this is an issue I found with some chassis. I'm still curious as to whether you have a #1 or #2 base chassis and whether the front axle holes are so close together that they touch.

Thanks...Joe


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## TeamMadMarsupial (Dec 23, 2012)

I also noticed the gear plate to chassis fit at the rear. The loose chassis are all #2. Yes, the front axle holes are so close to almost be touching. I will need to pull the first chassis out of the Race Box. Won't get that out of the shop till tomorrow night, let you know the particulars on that one then. Looking at these loose chassis, thinking it will be tough to drill the fronts to use a brass axle sleeve??? Don't remember the other one being this way. I'll let you know.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

In one of the two threads I mentioned above, I measured the gap under the front axle to the chassis. Big difference (in HO terms) between the #1, #2 and a JL chassis, indicating the axle holes are in three different locations; the #1 axle holes are located the highest and therefore the chassis is the lowest.

From that other thread...



Grandcheapskate said:


> Got a chance to take out the feeler gauge to measure how much room is between the bottom of the axle and the chassis. I compared the #1 and #2 molded chassis to an older JL. Turns out I didn't even need to measure. Even with the naked eye, the differences between these three chassis is striking, considering we are dealing with such small measurements.
> 
> The feeler gauge has the following: .020", .025", .028", .030", .033" and .040".
> 
> ...



Joe


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

great info now I know that I want the #1 chassis for my custom cars that can use the aw wheelbase . the lower the better !!


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## kriket (Feb 15, 2013)

TeamMadMarsupial said:


> Finally got to try building one of these translucent chassis and I"ve got to say, it turned out quite well. I did not go stock with it, but also did not go crazy and it runs like a champ!
> I dropped in a set of Dash magnets and a Mean Green arm, installed a brass tube front axle carrier with an RT HO indy front, a set of BSRT dbl flange rear wheels and after trying about a half dozen sets of old slip ons I had lying around, decided on this white set. I took the step out of a set of stock AW shoes and tried my first attempt at bending the top of the window. As with most of my cars, I pulled the brushes and replaced with a set of slightly stretched T-Jet springs. After topping it off with an old GT40 body I dremmeled up a few years back, it was time to do some testing. I was pretty good right out of the box and I took it along last night to offer it up as a loaner.
> We tweaked on it through the night and it made two features and was in a multi lap spirited duel for the lead of a feature before a spin ended it's night. All in all, I'll call it a good debut and I'm looking forward to a bit more tunning and testing to squeeze out whatever it's potential may be.



that is an awsome looking car. Did i read correctly that you replaced the brush with a spring?


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## SlickRick (Mar 3, 2011)

Yes. I do it to my Magnatractions, wears the comm down a bit quick tho, but they run very fast! I'm curious as to how he did it with a "leaf" style brush spring. I tried and the spring just threaded it self down the original brush spring. I'd be really interested how you accomplished that Team Mad. Badass car by the way!!


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## TeamMadMarsupial (Dec 23, 2012)

Thanks for the comments guys. Yes I replace almost all my brushes with stretched T-Jet springs and I've used some cut down G-Plus springs on occasion.

I have three different ways of preventing the springs from threading around the brush leaf.

First step for all three is to pull the leaf down with a dental pic, just enough to get a small, flat, duckbill pliers in under to flatten the leaf. On some cars this alone has worked.

Method two is to again flatten the leaf, then apply a very small dab of gel super glue to seal the area around the leaf.

Method three, once again, I flatten the leaf, then I use small sections of worn out pick-up shoes to cover the entire hole. This method has become my favorite as it pretty much completly eliminates any chance of the springs threading through the bottom of the car.

As for the comment that this is hard on the coms, yes it is. Our qualifying races are only three laps, and our features only five. I never use any of the cars out of my Race Box as runners. Practice with the racers is never more than ten laps on my shorter home track, or five laps on the club track. Therefore, I have arms running on springs that I have been running for over ten years. Since I am not a collector, I don't worry about saving parts so they last longer, or have a resale value and they go so much faster with the springs.


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## SlickRick (Mar 3, 2011)

Ahhh ok, that make perfect sense! Thanks for the tips man. 


> Since I am not a collector, I don't worry about saving parts so they last longer, or have a resale value and they go so much faster with the springs.


 I feel the same way LOL


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