# Easy to build load tester



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Parts needed:

3156 or 1156 automotive signal lightbulb.

2 short pieces of 1/4" wide brass shim stock (roughly about an 1.5" long).

Couple old magnets.

I like the 3156 bulb's ,as you can un-bend the contact wires and they're easy to work with.

JB Weld/glue a couple old magnets to the shim stock,and then solder the straightened out leads from a 3156 bulb to the shim stock.

Then when you want to load test your rails,the glued magnets clamp the shim stock to your rails (wherever you want on your circuit),a piece of shim stock clamps to each rail,jumper across your white and black controller posts,then turn on your power supply.
Then you just use a muti-meter set on the DC volt setting,to test the voltage drop at your rails,after you get a baseline voltage reading at the controller posts.

The lightbulb is a pretty steady draw,and will pull a little over 2.5 amps.

If you use an 1156 bulb,you'll have to solder a lead to the outer case,and a lead to the little silver contact nub on the bottom.

This turns load testing into a one man operation:thumbsup:


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## roffutt (Jun 30, 2006)

Great idea! Any Pictures?! 

Thanks,
Robbie


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I'm not much on the picture end of things,but give me a day or so,and i'll see what i can do.
I'm putor stupid,so i usually got to get somebody to do it
Rick


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Yeah Rick, pictures would be great. Get on that would ya.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I'm working on it,i'll be at your place this morning before 9 for them,lol:thumbsup:


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Hope this works


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

The bigger bulb version is only for high power tracks,as it pulls over 2.5 amps.
If you're wanting to test a wallwart powered track,use a smaller bulb,something like the little 194 bulb shown,draws roughly about .25 amps,and should work on smaller wallwart power better.
The bigger 2.5 amp 3156/1156 style bulbs will pull too much load for a wallwart powered track


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## roffutt (Jun 30, 2006)

Great pictures... thanks. 

I tend to remember those bulbs getting pretty hot... so probably need to make sure they are not resting on the track. 

Thanks,
Robbie


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Those magnets make it pretty easy to use Rick. Good idea.
:thumbsup:


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Robbie,it's hard to tell by the pictures,but when the magnets are clamped to the rails,the bulbs stick straight up in the air,away from the track surface ,with a fair bit of clearance.

And you're right they will get hot,especially on 18 volts,i should of mentioned that earlier.
Thanks for catching that:thumbsup:

The one with the funny looking spacer and handle seperating the magnets,with leads solder'd to the 3156 bulb is my own version
The spacer and handle make it alot nicer to use,but add more work and time to building something you'll probably only use a couple times,and aren't really needed.
The simple version with the bulb just solder'd to the brass shim stock is a bit more difficult to use,but works just as good.

Todd,I had to find some use for the old mags i got laying around,lol
Still got a pile of Neo bar magnets on hand,that i'm not sure what to do with,lol
Rick


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

*Video*

It works! Here's proof.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Man i owe you now Todd:wave:.

I'm not a very good narratter,so if you guys need anything answered,ask away.
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Have you guys ever tried the voltage check using the electronic self resetting type fuses / circuit breakers like these, 

http://www.professormotor.com/product-p/pmtr1007.htm

just wandered if they experience the same type of voltage drop characteristics as the glass fusses in the video


Tossedman, that is a great power setup you have on your track, looks like a supply for each lane. 

Boosted


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Boosted, it is one power supply per lane. Works great. Not my track though, it's Hornet's (Rick's).

Todd


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## Rick Carter (Dec 2, 2008)

Slickety Rickety,

Man I just wanted to tell you thanks for your contributions to the hobby. You know how we talk but I wanted to tell you in the public eye that I appreciate all that you are doing and have done for not only me but for those in need of direction in their quest to develop and/or to improve upon things in this hobby.

Not too many cats as we well know are willing to roll up their sleeves to take the time and effort to help someone else but you definitely raise the bar for those that can but are unwilling to help.

Keep doing your thang homie!

By the way, I've got your black post right here partner -LMAO!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Not quite sure what to say,other then thanks Rick,lol:wave:
For you buddy anything,:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Boosted:i've got Trackmates version of that style resettable fuse ,but i've never tested them for voltage drop.
I'll work on it later today,now i'm curious about them too,lol
I didn't do a fuse bypass test,but i think i'll try it to,just to see if the 30 amp fuse is losing anything.

I've also got the bigger Maxi style fuses that the stereo guys use,between the supplies and the controller stations,but they don't show up on that test.

The thing i wasn't expecting though was that much voltage drop threw roughly 4 ft of rail,i've got 19 power taps now,so i'm gonna live with it,but it opened my eyes up a bit,lol
Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Okay heres a fuse test,lol.

I took the track out of the picture and just did load tests across the fuses i have on hand.

I used the same style lightbulb except one with leads and alligator clips soldered onto it.
This bulb draws a steady 2.47 amps at 18 volts

I took a jumper lead from the positive of one power supply to one end or leg of the fuse,then hooked one alligator clip from the lightbulb to the other end of the fuse,then the other alligator clip from the lightbulb plugged back into the negative side of the power supply.
Then i measured the volts imput at one end of the fuse and then measured the volts output coming out the other end of the fuse.

The 3 / 6 and 30 amp fuses are all the old AGC style glass fuses,and the 5 Amp is Trackmates electronic resetting fuse.
Dan rates his fuse at 5 amps,and Professor motor rates theirs at 6 amps,but realistically they're probably the same fuse.

All tests were done at a measured 18volts on the imput side of the fuse.

Voltage output numbers below

3 amp glass fuse : 17.88 volts

6 amp glass fuse : 17.93 volts

30 amp glass fuse:17.98 volts

5 amp electronic : 17.96 volts.

It appears like the 5 amp electronic drops less voltage then the 6 amp glass fuse does.

Hope this test makes sense.
It's a rude and crude style test,but i think relatively accurate for our needs:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Out of curiousity i decided to up the load and see what happens.

Same 18 volt imput as above,but with a measured 5.16 amp draw this time around.
Didn't test the 3 amp glass fuse on this test.

6 amp glass: 17.85 volts

30 amp glass:17.94 volts

5 amp electronic:17.92 volts

On this test the electronic 5 amp fuse does way better then the older 6 amp glass fuse


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks Hornet, I am building me a load tester now & am going to check my tracks as well, they both have the electronic type fuses, I dont notice any spots that cars slow down, but this got me curious. My plastic track has 12 or so taps (about every 8 joints) the routed track is continuous rail, there are 4 joints per lane (due to the table separating) and this track has 4 power taps / lane. 

I will post some numbers as well

The electronic fuses can be purchased @ Mouser Electronics as well, greater selection of sizes. 

Thanks for your work.

Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,awright if you're building something,i'm sitting back waiting to be impressed:thumbsup:.
Anything you've built and showed so far has impressed me,so i'm waiting to see your version,lol:wave:
My stuff is Fred Flintstone style compared to yours,lol
Rick


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Rick, 

A little good hard data is sure nice to add to the mix of opinions and theory we all have, at least when it's possible. Once again, hats off to you for carefully taking real data on something that matters to slotters, clearly explaining your setup for the data, and sharing the results with all of us.

Appreciated,

Rolls


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

That seals it Rick. Electronic fuses for me.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Thanks Rolls,i'm hard wired for real world tests,and too much curiousity,lol

The thing with the drop across the fuses is it's exponential.

If you think of your wiring as a water hose,and the fuse as the coupler to the waterpump.
The bigger coupler flows more water,and will drop less pressure at the spray nozzle,which is your power tap to the rail.

That's why out at the powertaps i'm getting almost 2 tenths more volt loss between the 3 amp and the 30 amp,but only a tenth of an amp differance at the fuses themselves

Todd don't buy any,i've got about a dozen kicking around if you need a few:wave:
Rick


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Thanks Rick, I might have four here already but I can't find the basement! Too much crap!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Decided to sacrifice a couple fuses to see how they compared on a time blow factor.

This test changed my mind about the electronic fuses,i'm gonna avoid them

What i did was load the fuses then measured how long they held that load with a watch.
I limited the time to roughly a minute,if it held the load for a minute or more,i figure it probably won't trip at that load limit.

3 amp glass fuse,held 3.8 amps for over a minute,the fuse got a little warm to the touch and that was it.
Upped the load to 5.07 amps,and the 3 amp glass blew instantly.
So somewhere between 4 and 5 amps is the 3 amp AGC fuses limit.

Onto to the next test,comparing the 6 amp glass AGC style fuse to the 5 amp electronic self re-setting fuse.

This test was an eye-opener.

I started with a 7.7 amp load,and both held the load for well over a minute,both fuses got warm to the touch,but showed no signs of blowing or tripping.

Upped the load to 9.73 amps,and figured they'd both blow instantly,ha,wrong on my part,lol.

The 6 amp glass fuse,didn't blow instantly,but it let go somewhere between 4 and 5 sec's,so almost an instant blow for it.
It basically lite the lightbulbs to full brightness and then blew.

Now the scary part,
I put the 5amp electronic fuse on the same 9.73 amp load,and it held that load for 41 seconds before it tripped out.

Food for thought.
I know,i'm gonna wimp out and avoid the electronic style fuses,my first choice of the old 3 amp AGC style fuse,looks really good now,i figure i can change out a whole lot of fuses before i get to the cost of a car or controller,lol:wave:

It was a rude and crude test,but it opened my eyes,and changed my mind about fuses:wave:
Rick


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

That seals it Rick. Glass fuses for me.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

That is very interesting on the electronic fuses, I should have some specs on them around here somewhere, I will do some digging just to see what the specs say, Thanks again for testing, I have had them blow & reset due to a short (like me laying pliers or setting a paint can down on the track without thinking) but I have not had a car blow and short them out.
Good info Rick.

Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I gotta admit,i wasn't expecting that outcome.
Yesterday,i was seriously considering converting to the "E" fuse,but that test kinda scared me.
I'm pretty sure my Difalco's will handle 10 amps,but i'm not really interested in finding out for sure,lol.
I've been running the old 3 amp glass fuses for years,and usually they'll blow before totally cooking a custom arm,and i think i'm gonna stay with them now,lol.
They might drop a little more voltage,but i'm willing to give that up:thumbsup:

Hey B a bit off topic,but if you ever decide to write an article on your dyno,i'll be first in line to read it,lol.
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

If I can get some time over the holidays, I will try to get some info on it for you..

Boosted


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

*Load Tester*

Rick, since you were ribbing me about building the load tester here is the finished project, I used the magnets like you did on top of the brass contacts, I used an 1157 bulb, and a 3 position switch, I can light both elements for the 2.3 amp load or just a single element for a load just over 1 amp. 

Thanks for the idea, and all the fuse work, I plan on looking tonight for the electronic fuse data, that's good info you worked on.

The largest voltage drop I measured was .5 max, on the 2.3 load on the GlassRing, I hope to get the chance to measure the drop on the plastic track sometime soon, it has the better power supply on it as well. 

Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,i knew you'd come up with something good:wave:
That's really trick,i never thought of using both sides of an 1157 bulb,and i like how you got it all self contained in a project box.:thumbsup:
Looks like you've even got it set up to change out the bulb if needed.
I should'a ran the idea past you first,i like your version way better as you can tell,lol:thumbsup:
Great work B:thumbsup:


Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Damn you Boosted,now you got me digging threw my parts bin,duplicating yours,lol.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Ha ha, I knew from your post that you would be doing some modifications. Thats a Radio Shack project box, the little one.

Boosted


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Needs a couple of guide pins thrown into the bottom so it won't go and short out your rails. Or a styrene strip.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Boosted:I liked your idea so much,i borrowed it,:thumbsup:.
Even the grommets to hold the bulb in place,lol

I turned the box on it's side,and mounted both an 1156 and 1157 bulb into it.
The 1156 uses a SPST switch,and i used the same SPDT switch you used on the 1157 bulb.

I get 4 differant amp draw combo's that way,depending on how i turn the switches.

.65 amp

2.56 amp

3.17 amp 

4.92 amp.

Thanks B,great idea you had:thumbsup::wave:
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Great idea Hornet, I had thought about adding another bulb to increase & vary the amp draw as well, it would be really nice if we could find some smaller bulbs, it would just be less crowded in the box.

Get a picture of it posted up, this really is a great tool. 


Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Give me a day or so,i gotta hook up with Todd for pic's,he's my photographer guy:thumbsup:

I still gotta polish up the brass contacts and hit them with railzip,but yea i like your version way better then the hokay one i orginally built.
You'res actually had some thought put into it,mine not so sure:thumbsup:


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## Rick Carter (Dec 2, 2008)

If you need some smaller light bulbs, rattle Mike King's head around a bit, eh. His bulbs are pretty dim though and I heard that he volunteered to be a load tester in Police Academy -The Blue Oyster scene -LOL! You know you're my dawg Mike!

Keep up the development fellas. You're making good progress. I'm putting the 2 of you in business and will buy the first load testing kit from ya!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LMAO,no comment..


Boosted scares me,he thinks to much like me,and that's scary,even for me:wave:.

You a southpaw B,lol


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Yeah my boss would say great minds think alike, but you can also find idiots following each other as well.

Go figure

Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Boosted:I revised mine abit.
Stopped at Radio Shack and picked up another SPDT switch,and changed the 1156 out for an 1157.
I now got one amp draw stting at 1.3,along with the other settings.
And i used Todds idea of a couple guide-pins installed between the contacts,to keep it lined up on the rails,makes it actually easier to use.:thumbsup:
I'm calling it done.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Sounds great, post some pics

Boosted


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Rick, if you stop by the school this week, bring your Load Tester. I'll take some pics and post 'em for ya.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Todd, I hope your at least getting a free load tester for posting pictures for Rick, or tons of free technical support. 

Boosted


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I got his new slot car,and i think he's hoping i'll bring it with me,lol.

I owe him and Ted a fair bit,with-out them,my new track would of never got built,thanks guys:thumbsup:

I try to help out a little bit,lol

After spending upteen piles of money lately though,i'm on the fence about whether that's a good or bad thing,.:wave:
Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

The pins keep it lined up with the rails and actually make it easier to use










Depending on which way you turn the switches gives you the amp draws listed on the masking tape










What to do with an old 6 amp battery charger,turn it into a regulated/filtered /over current protected,dual circuit adjustable power supply,for almost twice what you could buy a Trackmate power supply for,lol.
It was an experiment to see if i could build one,first and last one i'll ever build,lol.
Gave it to Todd for his 1/32 track at school,he says it works good,knock on wood,got lucky,lol










******* magnet matchers,lol.
One is shaped to fit the inside curve of a motor mag,and the other is flat for traction mags,and a stack of washers.

I only run poly and Neo style mags,that's why the bolt is as long as it is,they'll pick up a fair bit of weight in washers,it's a rude abd crude way of matching mags,but they actually work pretty good,for being made out of stuff i had laying around,as in no cost,lol


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Hornet said:


> The pins keep it lined up with the rails and actually make it easier to use
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Now that looks slick :thumbsup:

How about a parts list & schematic of the bulbs and switches?

Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,other then the brass strips/grommets and bulbs everything else is Radio Shack..

I used 2 Mini Center-Off SPDT switches,rated 10 amps @125VAC.

(2) 1157 signal lightbulbs.

Radio Shacks small 3 X 2 X 1 project box 

(2) grommets that fit the base of an 1157 bulb,probably 1/2" or bigger,i just fished through my gromet selection till i had a couple that fit.

You can probably get the grommets and lightbulbs at your local automotive parts supply house,if you don't have any.

The brass shim stock should be available at your local hobby shop.

The magnets your on your own for getting,i got a pile of Neo bar magnets on hand,so that's what i used.

The pins are old stubs cut off drillblanks to make front axles,but anything around .050 diameter should work.

I cut notches in the bottom of the box,to accept the mags,and glued them in place with 2 part slow set epoxy.

Then i cut and shaped the brass shim stock to the bottom side of the box.

Soldered 4 short chunks of 18G stranded wire onto the 4 ends of the 2 strips.

Then i ground and drilled small notches into the bottom of the box,for the wires to feed through.
Then used more epoxy to glue the brass pieces under the magnets and to the box

Then figured out where i wanted switches and bulbs on the sides of the box,and used a fairly good sized Uni-Bit or stepped drill bit to drill the holes for the grommets and bulbs,then a smaller Uni-bit for the switches.

One set of wires from each end of the brass strips feeds a switch,basically i used 2 seperate circuits, one for each bulb.
Didn't want to overload the lightduty 18G wiring,that's why i went for 2 seperate circuits.

One lead from the brass shim goes to the center pin of each switch.

From each side of the switch,off the 2 remaining pins,you feed a wire to each of the silver nubs on the bottom of the 1157 bulb and solder one to each nub.

Soldering to the small pins on Radio Shacks mini switches is a pain,but if your careful,18G wire fits through the small holes in the pins,and you can solder the wire solidly to them.

Hopefully you have some soldering talents,and knowledge about pre-tinning/fluxes etc.,they're kinda needed on this project

Then the extra 2 wires left-over from the other 2 pieces of brass shim stock, solders to the outer case of the 1157 bulb.

Then i drilled small holes and glued the guide-pins in place.

Hope this makes sense:wave:

I could hand draw you a wiring schematic,but that's about it,lol


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Your going to make me go back to Radio Shack for parts, you know that, right?

Looks great, I really like the way you have the box laid out.

Boosted


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Hornet said:


> Hope this makes sense:wave:
> 
> I could hand draw you a wiring schematic,but that's about it,lol


Thanks!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Rb:I'm not very good at s'plaining things sometimes,i hope it helped .

LOL,you're to blame B,if you hadn't had the first well thought out one,i'd never copied yours.:wave:

3 bulbs will fit,if you mount the switches on the flat sides,lol

One thing,i wished i'd added was short external jumper leads ,would make it a little more user friendly for other tests.
Might do that yet

Before i forget,the amp draws listed on it's side are only a generalized amp draw number,based off 18 volts.
At 12 volts the bulbs won't draw as many amps.


Rick


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## Dyno (Jan 26, 2009)

I built one of these based on Hornets advice. I didn't go nuts like you guys. I kept it very simple. I used a 4147 bulb and a beat down Lifelike T chassis. I removed the motor and rear axle. I retained the pickup hangers and shoes. The hangers already have small holes in them so I just slid the wires from the bulb through the hangers. The magnets hold the chassis still, the pin keeps it centered. The shoes make the connection. Easy as can be. No soldering or gluing necessary. You can solder the bulb if you want but it will be easier to change if you don't. I found an issue on my small track. Beauty of this is as you wiggle the joints you can find the offenders by looking at the light change brightness.

http://s1012.beta.photobucket.com/user/Dyno05/media/image-1.jpg.html

http://s1012.beta.photobucket.com/user/Dyno05/media/image.jpg.html


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,that's thinking outside the box Dana:thumbsup:
It looks good,and is a lot less work to build then what Jeff and i built.

Like i said,where were you when we were building our's,so far you'res is the best one,easiest to build and simple to use,can't go wrong:thumbsup:

That's good tip on wiggling things and watching how the bulb responds
Rick


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Great idea Dyno :thumbsup: 

Maybe now I'll build one! Thanks


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