# 1955 Le Mans Nardi Giannini Bisiluro ND 750



## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

This is another wooden project. I have about exhausted my present wants in 1/64th'ish metal diecast market. "Necessity being the mother of invention" I've taken to alternate mediums to satisfy my wants and quirks. Quirk is the operative word here. Something different, cool and something Mattel won't make. Afraid those days may be gone. I'm old enough not to have time to wait on them. So this car fits this criteria and definition of "Quirky." I waited to get this far to see how it might come out. I've got the general shape.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)




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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)




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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

This is a learning process. Haven't found much like it online to guide me. This is my third wood replication. I am a novice.... I'm kinda using these post as personal reference. 
RULE 1.... when selecting a piece of wood. Section a piece without a knot. Example in the first pics.

This is what I'm shooting for. I'm really tempted to try and put a motor in it..... :dude:"Quirky."


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

Milliput time.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Are you making your own blanks?

What you are accomplishing is already remarkable. Kudos for that! :cheers2:


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

Blanks ? I'm starting by cutting -3"X2" block from a 8'x2" strip of white pine. So yeah..... I should have been and could have been more selective about my base stock. The size of the model is determined by comparing and sizing the wheel of a 1/64th'iish diecast wheel, to the downloaded image on Adobe PS. In the case of the Chaparrals, I had good, 5 sided view, "blue-print" diagrams. Not as lucky with the "Nardi." I had to use these photos. Which I was very grateful to find even if I couldn't find a very good shot from the top that I could get to download. And those top views were of models. So I had to extrapolate the top view from the other four views. The only measurement I can't be reasonably sure of is, from the tip of the front fenders, back to where the grill work starts. 

But... I glue the views to the appropriate sides of the wood block and cut on the high lines to get the basic shape. The rest is ground or cut away, to where it looks like a car.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Your 3 X 2 blocks would each be called a blank. If you have access to a local lumber yard you should be able to get some aspen or basswood to cut your own blanks from. Lowes or Home Depot may have some smaller pieces to select from. The blanks would have way less knots/defects to work around - as those are already removed. And since you are painting them the color wouldnt matter. Some Michaels and Hobby Lobbys carry pre cut blanks as well. It may also make your initial carving efforts a little less arduous.

:thumbsup:


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

I haven't experimented with any woods for this purpose. Outside of white pine. We have several good lumber companies around here. Always willing to help . I just have this pine strip laying around. Ideally I could see the fewer blemishes and grain the better. But it still needs to be soft enough to grind and sand to shape. Lumber yard time.


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

Engine bay and bonnet.


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## MargaretWoodard (Jan 13, 2018)

Great topic!


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

Got the wheels fitted. And a something of a motor and drivetrain. Working on the grill ?????


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

I've posted this process on the Diecast Forum as I was figuring it out several years ago. I used copper foil and burnished in some louvers from a Torpedo Jones. But since then ! I've joined The church of MILLIPUT. It is truly wonderful stuff that I haven't experimented with enough to have scratched the surface of its possibilities. Kinda like duck tape to a newbie. But in the CoM experimentation is encouraged. Tonight I'm making louvers for the left side of the Nardi. I had been using J&B KWIK for this. Used a thin smear of petroleum jelly to the mold to aid with the release of the J&B. But since the last time I used this technique I've discovered MILLIPUT ! Decided to give it a chance. So.... Already MILLIPUT Is on the slow side. KWIK is already out of the mold and is thin enough to cut and apply with white glue. MILLIPUT has about 20 more minutes added to right now. So in this case the only advantage I see would be if it yields a better casting. At 45 minutes I was able to pull the MILLIPUT from the mold. It's not even in the running. I reapplied it and pressed it out again. We'll wait until tomorrow morning.and see what the light brings. But as for now I'm putting the KWIK louvers on the car


UPDATE : 
After going through the Before MILLIPUT (BM) method of making louvers. Though successful. I wasn't satisfied with the spacing of the vent work. (NOTE to self: I need to go through the cars I have and burnish a copper sheet of various vents.) 

BUT ! ! ! I had an epiphany while making the seat for the "Nardi." I used MILLIPUT for that. But as I was making the pleats for the seat cushion I realized that pattern could be used for vents. THIS IS PURE CONJECTURE at this point as I haven't actually tried it..... I'm thinking press the MILLIPUT out into a thin flat sheet. Let it get workable. Then use a flat screwdriver tip to press the vents into the MILLIPUT. Apply while workable and use water to blend the vents into where it has been applied. Probably should have started a new thread for this.


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## ClearHooter (Nov 28, 2004)

FYI : This AM I pulled the MILLIPUT louvers from the form. They were better than the first pull. But not as good as the KWIK louvers. They would still form around an arch but I doubt they would look as good because the KWIK is thinner and more rubbery. So chalk another one up for J&B KWIK.


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