# track height



## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

I am planning on building a new layout with landscaping. One of the things I'm considering is using masonite (or something similar) to trace the track on. Then cut it out so that the track can be inlaid into the masonite. I would like the material I use to be as close as possible to the actual height of the track.

Now to the question. Can anyone tell me the actual height of old tyco track in either inches or millimeters? I don't have an acurate way to measure that.

Also, anyone have any alternatives to masonite as the material?

Thanks.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

You don't need any special tools to measure the height of Tyco track. Just use a ruler. The height is about 1/4" and I have used 1/4" MDF with success.

Joe


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## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

I would like the two surfaces to be as close to the same height as possible so there would be no lip up or down when the rear tires leave the track and ride on the masonite surface.

My current cork borders were sold to me as 1/4" yet they are slightly lower than 1/4". I was hoping someone might have a micrometer and could measure the track more acurately than I can with a cheap ruler.

I may not be able to match the height exactly, but I would like to get as close as possible.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

is "old Tyco" track Tyco S?
or just before Mattel?


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

tasman said:


> I was hoping someone might have a micrometer and could measure the track more acurately than I can with a cheap ruler.


 Plastic track is not made to any strict tolerances. Using a micrometer will really do you little good. Getting a measurement to the hundredths or thousandths of an inch would be useless because (1) track height will vary piece to piece and (2) the height of whatever board you buy isn't going to be that accurate.

In fact, depending on what mold your curves came from, the actual radius can vary slightly.

You are looking for an accuracy far beyond anything you can realistically use.

Joe


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## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

alpink said:


> is "old Tyco" track Tyco S?
> or just before Mattel?


I don't know what Tyco S is. My brother gave me the track to use from several sets he had purchased at garage sales. The sets were from the early 80's I believe.

When I was a kid I used lock & joiner and the first AFX track. I don't know the difference in Tyco track. Is there a way I can tell from something stamped on the track?


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

tasman said:


> I don't know what Tyco S is. My brother gave me the track to use from several sets he had purchased at garage sales. The sets were from the early 80's I believe.
> 
> When I was a kid I used lock & joiner and the first AFX track. I don't know the difference in Tyco track. Is there a way I can tell from something stamped on the track?


Tyco Pro track (not Tyco S) slides together (side to side) kinda like old Aurora AFX or Lifelike. The updated (current) Tyco/Mattel track snaps together (straight on) along the lines of Tomy track.

Joe


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

1/4" MDF will work, but it will have to be slightly shimmed. You really only need to shim it next to the track. On my Lakeside Park layout using Tyco track, I used a combination of 1/4" MDF and extruded foam. On my current 1/32 routed track I used only extruded foam along the MDF.


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## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

alpink said:


> is "old Tyco" track Tyco S?
> or just before Mattel?


Based on Grandcheapskates info I have Tyco-S. 

Correction, I think I have just before Mattel.


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## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

Tycoarm said:


> 1/4" MDF will work, but it will have to be slightly shimmed. You really only need to shim it next to the track. On my Lakeside Park layout using Tyco track, I used a combination of 1/4" MDF and extruded foam. On my current 1/32 routed track I used only extruded foam along the MDF.


So, is 1/4" MDF really less than 1/4" or is the track slightly taller than 1/4"?


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## FOSTBITTEN (Aug 1, 2013)

tasman said:


> So, is 1/4" MDF really less than 1/4" or is the track slightly taller than 1/4"?


I hate to say this, but both. I don't know about anybody else but I have always experienced differences measurements of all kinds of lumber/building materials. For most folks it does not matter to have a swing of 1/32nd an inch. 

I would arm yourself with as many shims as possible or go to http://slotborders.com/


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

tasman said:


> So, is 1/4" MDF really less than 1/4" or is the track slightly taller than 1/4"?


 You are beating a dead horse here. The track and MDF are simply not made to the tolerances you are trying to match. 1/4" MDF board (which is really 1/4") is as close to track height as you are going to get. Some shimming may be required or you may find it is so close there is no need for any further action (as I have found).

Unless your Tyco Pro track is vastly different in height to Tyco/Mattel, Tomy and Lifelike, just measure it with a ruler that has 1/16" increments and see what you get. A micrometer is overkill and would be useless - you aren't going to find a board made to that level of precision.

Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

If you have the track joints like the ones all the way to the left in the pic, 
you have the most common Tyco track.










This is not Tyco S or Tyco Pro track.

You can use modeling clay to even out the edges of your track borders.
It comes in many colors, is easy to work with, non permanent and cheap.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

As Joe says,even the individual track pieces are inconsitent with-in the piece itself.
I've had the individual track pieces themselves vary several hundredth's of an inch
If you want perfect,start shimming / Bondo'ing and sanding.
Buy yourself a pair of cheap calipers next time.
Look around your local dollar store,they should have cheap plastic calipers for less then 5 bucks:thumbsup:


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Tasman:

I'd think you could adapt Swamper Gene's idea for bringing cork borders up to track height - strips of felt. Details *here*. You may not need the adhesive backing. One or two layers of felt should bring the masonite up to or above track height, but will compress, so you can make final adjustments by how hard you nail down the masonite. 

Or just a trail of silicone sealant near the track edge might be enough by itself. Nail, screw or weight the masonite down level with the track. When the silicone underneath cures, it should permanently fix it at that level.

You might re-read these earlier discussions (you're in some of them). There may be some ideas you can use or adapt.
*Border Questions
Questions about Borders
Inside Border*

-- D


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Check the articles here:

Woodrum Ridge Raceway

I document all the steps I took to get the skid apron level. For most of the tracks I've built over the decades, they measure 5/16th of an inch thick. I shim the 1/4" material with Midwest balsa wood that 1" wide and 1/16" thick. That levels everything out pretty smooth. For anything that's milled in larger sheets like MDF or drywall/sheetrock, get 3/8" and sand down the areas that meet up with the track to get your skid apron smooth to the track's top surface. I think there's an article in the Aurora Handbooks (V. III) that shows this method using sheetrock. It's the Watkins Glen build I believe.

-Paul


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