# clear coat



## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

Gents may I ask what's the best non yellowing rattle can clear coat to use. Time to decal and clear coat my two (white) racers. There has to be something better than what I used 18-20 years ago. To be honest, I don't remember what I used 18-20 years ago. I don't have, and will not be getting another airbrush set-up so rattle cans is it.

The paint I'll be clear coating is Krylon cover maxx satin so I'd like a satin finish clear coat.


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## oneredz (Jan 29, 2012)

Too bad you don't like shiny things, otherwise I would recommend Future floor wax brushed on.


They may have a satin finish Future, but not sure.


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## vickers83 (Mar 8, 2010)

I will never again use "Future" floor wax on a car. It ruined a bunch of older cars I had, It turned them all yellow! Cars that were sprayed with various clear coats, No problem.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

vickers, curious ....
how long was that future on the cars and how old was it when applied.
I have used it some and so far no yellowing.
in fact it also seemed to strenghten a Tomy G indy/formula that I ran with some guys at a local hobby shop. I probably crashed harder than most, being clumsy, but they were shedding front and back wings like it was Thanksgiving.
have had a couple others try out the har and send it right off the table onto concrete floor, still no broken parts.
I dipped it twice and wicked the excess with a paper towel.
it is not collectible so I don't really care.
but some other stuff I have I might want to clear and do not want to see yellow later


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## vickers83 (Mar 8, 2010)

All the cars were done over 10 to 15 years ago AP.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

gotcha. sorry you had to find this out for the rest of us.
word to the wise.
I will not recommend it anymore


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

I'm with Vickers, although I've never personally used Future, I have acquired a few cars that had it applied 15-18 years ago, and they have either yellowed, or crackled...hard to describe that look, it's like tiny cracks all over the clear coat....and the cars came from different owners. But they were tyco cars, which I mainly bought for the chassis at the time. Anyway, I know alot of the custom cars builders on this site -swear by it, but I'll never touch it....as I've seen the long term effects


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

So any ideas what does hold up?


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

Ralphthe3rd said:


> I'm with Vickers, although I've never personally used Future, I have acquired a few cars that had it applied 15-18 years ago, and they have either yellowed, or crackled...hard to describe that look, it's like tiny cracks all over the clear coat....and the cars came from different owners. But they were tyco cars, which I mainly bought for the chassis at the time. Anyway, I know alot of the custom cars builders on this site -swear by it, but I'll never touch it....as I've seen the long term effects


having this issue w/ a couple of models... maybe the paint is a factor..
will redo & report ASAP..

Bubba 123


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

I use Future on all of my cars, but it is not durable enough to protect decals if the car will be handled a lot. Future will cause some types of white paint to yellow. You need to use a clear coat that does not attack decals or your finish paint. Automotive clear coats, like DupliColor, are better at resisting chiping, but are too hot, so they will damage decals and even your paint if you put it on too heavy. I have found that if you try to apply light coats you may get a rough finish. If you print your own decals give them a few coats of Testors Decal Bonder before you cut them out and put them on the car. I have used Krylon Crystal Clear as a clear coat and that works well, but can chip. Right now I am using Testors clear. I top off my cars with Future, if a car starts to look a little dingy I just brush on another coat.
You should do some test shots to be sure different combinations of primer, finish coat, decals and clear coat will work OK.
Do not spray solvent based paint if it is humid, water can get trapped in the paint and some types may never dry.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Rich Dumas said:


> I use Future on all of my cars, but it is not durable enough to protect decals if the car will be handled a lot. Future will cause some types of white paint to yellow. I top off my cars with Future, if a car starts to look a little dingy I just brush on another coat.


 There's your problem - Future! 



Ralphthe3rd said:


> I'm with Vickers, although I've never personally used Future, I have acquired a few cars that had it applied 15-18 years ago, and they have either yellowed, or crackled...hard to describe that look, it's like tiny cracks all over the clear coat....and the cars came from different owners. But they were tyco cars, which I mainly bought for the chassis at the time. Anyway, I know alot of the custom cars builders on this site -swear by it, but I'll never touch it....as I've seen the long term effects


 Once again - Future!



alpink said:


> gotcha. sorry you had to find this out for the rest of us.
> word to the wise.
> I will not recommend it anymore


 This is why I never recommended it, and I never will! 



vickers83 said:


> I will never again use "Future" floor wax on a car. It ruined a bunch of older cars I had, It turned them all yellow! Cars that were sprayed with various clear coats, No problem.


 I've never had this problem since I know to use acrylic paint with acrylic paint, and enamel with enamel, lacquer with lacquer, and oils with oils only! 

See people - after all this time everyone, and their damned brother has poo-pooped me for coming into threads not just here, but on the rpf, starship modeler for telling all of you NOT to use Future! It's a FLOOR WAX, and is not durable, nor intended to be NON-YELLOWING! IT'S NOT PAINT! GET A CLUE! I just don't understand WHO thought of this first, then thought it was a good idea to recommend it to others. This is how models are destroyed - listening to the voice of inexperience. All you need is KRYLON satin acrylic. It's the same brand, and the same formulation of paint so no mismatch with other household items that will damage your models' surfaces. I don't intend to be demeaning to everyone who has used it, but now you know to not put just any old damned thing on top of your projects. 

~ Chris ​


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

You know what I hate,
When I decal a car, give it a day to dry, then brush on future, AND THE DECAL SLIDS AROUND.
Why is that???


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

well said dyonisis


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

" I don't intend to be demeaning ..... "

~ Chris 

but ....
you sure are.


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## vickers83 (Mar 8, 2010)

Well, Hopefully after all these helpful posts, people will stop using Future on their cars! :woohoo:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Alles klaar?


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## oneredz (Jan 29, 2012)

vickers83 said:


> I will never again use "Future" floor wax on a car. It ruined a bunch of older cars I had, It turned them all yellow! Cars that were sprayed with various clear coats, No problem.


Did you try removing the Future with Windex or ammonia to see if the yellowing cleared up?


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Personally, I've had a little bit of success removing old Future on cars I've purchased, that had it already applied. Sometimes I could get it all off, but other times I couldn't get it out of all the nooks and crannies without scrubbing with a toothbrush- and that tended to have detrimental affects on near bye areas if it was a painted car


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

RjAFX said:


> Gents may I ask what's the best non yellowing rattle can clear coat to use. Time to decal and clear coat my two (white) racers. There has to be something better than what I used 18-20 years ago. To be honest, I don't remember what I used 18-20 years ago. I don't have, and will not be getting another airbrush set-up so rattle cans is it.
> 
> The paint I'll be clear coating is Krylon cover maxx satin so I'd like a satin finish clear coat.


Anyone?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

RjAFX said:


> The paint I'll be clear coating is Krylon cover maxx satin so I'd like a satin finish clear coat.
> Anyone?


Dyonisis Dyonisis is offline
Elder Statesman

My Photos 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: United States of Unamerica - why leave it when you can trash it?
Posts: 1,435
All you need* is KRYLON satin acrylic*. It's the same brand, and the same formulation of paint so no mismatch with other household items that will damage your models' surfaces.

~ Chris


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Wax on ... wax off?*

Future is a house of cards. It's engineered to go on easy, and come off easy as well. Ammonia will strip Future right off. It's how grandma redid the kitchen floor while you were off picking your nose and torturing her cat. Naturally in slot car land Ammonia indiscriminately kills vacu-plate chrome, decals, and shoddily applied conventional finishes too.

Just because you get the Future off doesnt guarantee that there's a mint model lurking just under the surface that pops right out Presto Change-o! Future is intended to cover a multitude of sins by design. Thats why they put it on in the first place. Same as grannys worn linoleum. See? 

Future is the compromise that guys use who are too chicken to pull the trigger on conventional clear coat. Future guys dont use clear, and no self respecting painter would ever mop that spooge on a project. 

Pay no attenshun to the fact that it yellows, lifts, and attracts crap like a neo magnet after it gets warm and then traps it permanently onto the surface. You cant cut, rub, or polish it. Yet somehow it has undeservedly attained legendary status for being superior to clear paint. Nobody ever talks about the down side when they recommend it and nobody ever asks. Nuthen could be farther from the truth. Blot the edges with a paper towel after dipping to remove the excess ... LOL... 'scuse me a sec while I prep it by rubbing it through the cat box first.

The only real upshot to future is that it clobbers around pretty well and resists cracking in heavy door to door action, but thats not same a schlobbering it on one of your pretty as princess shelf queens and hoping for an immortality miracle from the bottle.

No need to fear modern acrylics. Just select the right formulation.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

ummmmm .... 
wouldn't the ammonia from the cat box prevent it from adhereing in places? 
perspiring minds want to know!

ROFLMFAO


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

sethndaddy said:


> You know what I hate,
> When I decal a car, give it a day to dry, then brush on future, AND THE DECAL SLIDES AROUND.
> Why is that???


Ed... Likely nothing you did wrong. All decals/decal papers are not created equal. Some you think are new and look new are actually old. Maybe the waterslide paper stock was a bad batch. I can't imagine there's too much focus on that industry's standards or proper rotation of it's stock to ensure customer satisfaction. Some you could have let soak too long or applied too wet. Again, not your fault because the release time varies from one to the next. Maybe body oil from your fingers was on the body... it really doesn't take much. Most times it's not the modeler's fault... The decals just plain flat out could have been made better to begin with. I'd tell you a trick to stop this from happening, buuut it involves Future and that's a bad thing I guess.

BTW... how's that NSU TT holding up? .... The cautionary to ominous tones of some of these posts have me a little rattled. Please make sure that you and the family wear safety glasses when you run it. Timing wise it should be just about ready to blow up in your faces. I guess most of my customs are just about ready to explode/crack/crumble/yellow/ _<<place your favorite bad symptom here>>_... DAMN.. after all that work too... If only I could have known what the Future had in store for me.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*No comparison*

Well Dave, 

That's two for flinching. Any comparo between the auction lot goo wads and a Land H0 product would be apples and oranges. My Land H0 collection looks like the day of creation ...

... and I know why.


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

Dave, that little NSU is doing fine, just raced him last weekend at my brothers, we put up a 4 lane tyco a few months ago.
Finish looks good and my brother was heckling me for that car, I refuse to get rid of it, its awesome looking and runs like a beast.

My 2 cents on future, I brush on 2 light coats, just to keep my decals in place and give it a little shine. I started using it about 10 years ago and havent had any problems. but im not a perfectionist.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Future does have its uses, but not as your primary clear coat. Future is not a wax, it is an acrylic copolymer emulsion in mostly water with a little ammonia. I had some Future analyzed a few years back. The ammonia may be what causes yellowing with some kinds of paint. Being water based it is not likely to attack decals, but it might cause inkjet printed decals to smudge if you brush it on, so it is best to put bonder on those first. I often use Future as a barrier coat to protect decals before I apply a solvent based clear coat. Future is only 25% solids, so it takes a few coats to build up a decent film. One nice thing about Future is that it does not attack "glass" parts like solvent based films do. 
As was already stated ammonia will remove Future, it helps to have an ultrasonic bath, that will get at the stuff in shut lines and the like without having to resort to a tooth brush.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Definitions 

*****Future is not a wax, it is an acrylic copolymer emulsion in mostly water with a little ammonia.

Thanks for my morning laugh Rich. Now mopping up a randomly atomized emulsion steeped from the fruit of the coffee plant that was combined with 700 ml of pasteurized bovine mammary secretions, 5 grams of refined granulated sucrose, and gently agitated in my personal ceramic beaker .... oh and a few ppm of mucousa verde exported after the fact from my Nostralia.

The issue with Future, AKA: Floor wax in laymans terms; is that it is not intended to be a permanent coating. Any experienced Janitor, Custodian, or Hard Surface Specialist will tell you this. Future is the bottom of the barrel in whats known as a maintenance type floor finish. Modern more advanced products were engineered to extend the service life of the finish. They were formulated to tolerate high speed buffing, heavy traffic, and periodic rejuvenation via chemical restorers, up and to a point; but in the end there is always a complete strip-out in your "Future". (tee hee) 

Think of it as a tear away visor on racers helmet. When it's done it's done.

Rich is right about the trapped ammonia. The effect is more pronounced in areas where the product was applied overly thick or remnants of the ammoniated stripper where not completely neutralized prior to re-coat. Ever wonder how they get those shimmering hallways, foyers, and promenades? Same way guys like Nuther Dave, Roadrunner, and Bobzilla get it on their cars. I have some of their models and my own that are flawlessy approaching 9 years old. Like most coatings, the concept of fully cured thin evenly applied coats is often lost in translation.

The secrets to a long lasting finish on a slot car with Future are the "Twirl" or "Flick" to remove all the excess product; blot the runs at the rockers and valences, then let it dry thoroughly before any recoat. Same reason the floor crews use a special closed loop fan tailed Rayon mop to apply floor finish. It physically traps the liquid finish, but the Rayon resists absorption of the product and thus allows it to be floated across the surface in a uniformly thin application. 

Less is more.


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## hojoe (Dec 1, 2004)

Bill Hall said:


> oh and a few ppm of mucousa verde exported after the fact from my Nostralia.


TMI dude LOL
hojoe


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I will weigh in with my limited experience on clear coats, whatever the brand and be it enamel based or lacquer, before I spray it on a what I consider to be my best effort at painting, I squirt some of the clear into a paper cup & let it set for a few minutes until the bubbles settle and I can see how clear it really is. I have found cheaper $1-2 cans of clear while are less likely to melt anything under it range from milky looking to almost a light tan color. On darker base colors these are probably Ok, on lighter colors it will change your base color tint. Some of the other Automotive rattle can brands are clearer & I always shoot the clear into a cup to pour into my airbrush anyway, so checking the color is a by-product of the painting process, for me cans are just to big of a spray head for me painting HO sized bodies, I wind up with thick spots on rocker panels and corners etc. The thing on the automotive brand clear, they tend to have more thinner content, what I like to use is the brush in a bottle touch up clears and then thin to my own liking or if I have to use rattle can clear I will spray it into the cup and let it air out for about 5-10 minutes to let some of the thinner evaporate, its a hit & miss on how long to let it steep, temp, humidity all matter, too long and you will get cob webs out of the air brush.

I am no painter, just a hack who can somewhat paint, at least on a good day.

Boosted


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

I use rustoleum crystal clear spray can enamel on my custom ho slot cars.

I do non like future , I used It few times .


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Boosted-Z71 said:


> I will weigh in with my limited experience on clear coats, whatever the brand and be it enamel based or lacquer, before I spray it on a what I consider to be my best effort at painting, I squirt some of the clear into a paper cup & let it set for a few minutes until the bubbles settle and I can see how clear it really is. I have found cheaper $1-2 cans of clear while are less likely to melt anything under it range from milky looking to almost a light tan color. On darker base colors these are probably Ok, on lighter colors it will change your base color tint. Some of the other Automotive rattle can brands are clearer & I always shoot the clear into a cup to pour into my airbrush anyway, so checking the color is a by-product of the painting process, for me cans are just to big of a spray head for me painting HO sized bodies, I wind up with thick spots on rocker panels and corners etc. The thing on the automotive brand clear, they tend to have more thinner content, what I like to use is the brush in a bottle touch up clears and then thin to my own liking or if I have to use rattle can clear I will spray it into the cup and let it air out for about 5-10 minutes to let some of the thinner evaporate, its a hit & miss on how long to let it steep, temp, humidity all matter, too long and you will get cob webs out of the air brush.
> 
> I am no painter, just a hack who can somewhat paint, at least on a good day.
> 
> Boosted


*ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP FIRST!* Just looking at the clearcoat in a can won't give you the true appearance over the paint surface. Any substrate (paint base) will look more yellow in the can, or jar than it does sprayed onto any surface. The BEST way to do this is to paint something with the same colour, or paint that you intend to use as your base coat colour, then spray over it with the clearcoat to see how many layers you can spray over it until it starts to yellow, or discolour, or lift, wrinkle, or other effects after spraying it. 



Rich Dumas said:


> Future does have its uses, but not as your primary clear coat. Future is not a wax, it is an acrylic copolymer emulsion in *mostly water with a little ammonia.*


STILL - it's designed as a floor wax type of polish - and therefore it's NOT intended to be used as a clearcoat for plastic models, or painted surfaces.



alpink said:


> " I don't intend to be demeaning ..... "
> 
> ~ Chris
> 
> ...


You already made my point for me AND everyone else here in your last post. I'm sorry if that's the way that you see it - it's not how I wrote it, or intended it to be, sound, or appear. However, NOW I'm going to be demeaning. I'm sorry if you used this stuff ignorantly be...I mean Naively believing someone elses' post about using it on their models. Caveat Emptor! I've always believed that you should use paint for things intended to be painted, and wax only for those things that should be waxed including things that you polish with it! I'll say it again - NOW you know NOT to put just any thing on your models just because one person (or more) said to. 

Hindsight is 20/20, but foresight is priceless! I think of all the things that I've ruined with either inexperience, or listening to someone elses' suggestions that was inexperienced whenever I read threads like this very one. I wish I had all the opportunities that I either passed up on, or wasted to have all the stuff I had when I was much younger than I am now! If I could go back and do all that stuff right........(SIGH)! Always test on scrap first, and see what results you get if you're unsure - but I still say that you should only use products designed for their intended use. Why use a screwdriver for a job that requires a hammer? 

~ Chris ​


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

*Merry Cristmas*



Dyonisis said:


> *ALWAYS TEST ON SCRAP FIRST!* Just looking at the clearcoat in a can won't give you the true appearance over the paint surface. Any substrate (paint base) will look more yellow in the can, or jar than it does sprayed onto any surface. The BEST way to do this is to paint something with the same colour, or paint that you intend to use as your base coat colour, then spray over it with the clearcoat to see how many layers you can spray over it until it starts to yellow, or discolour, or lift, wrinkle, or other effects after spraying it.
> 
> STILL - it's designed as a floor wax type of polish - and therefore it's NOT intended to be used as a clearcoat for plastic models, or painted surfaces.
> 
> ...


Merry Christmas

:wave:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*A Christmas Story*

Nuthen like waking up to a sucker punch snowball fight from the Bumpas' kids on Christmas morn. Rather than including a chunk of ice, a rock, or a lug nut in the center of one of mine, how about we dispense with protocol and go straight to the "Triple Dog Dare" in the spirit of the season.

".....but I still say that you should only use products designed for their intended use. Why use a screwdriver for a job that requires a hammer?" 

So based on that myopic Dark Ages dogma, we wouldnt use cleanser to pre-scrub before painting? Peroxide for oxidation, or rubbing compound to sand seams before painting, clear desk tape for fine custom masking, sponge and window silicone for tires, RTV for break away parts mounting? Good lord dont even think of using Easy Off or Pinesol to strip a crappy paint job; let alone watch knobs for radiator caps, shower curtains for tonneaus, paperclips for windshield frames, o-rings for front tires, drill blanks for axles. fishing line for tail lenses, cassette boxes for windshields, and an as yet untapped virtually infinite number of adaptations NOT REALLY INTENDED FOR USE.

The bottom line is that: When properly applied, the modern UV resistant non yellowing formulation of Future is in fact a viable option for Slot Car enthusiasts who require both ease of application, zero VOC, and door banging durability. Unlike shooting spitwads in your footy pajammas, playing pretend with your Sci Fi Models hanging from yer ceiling on a string; many slot car enthusiasts actually race their models competitively in league, club, or actively in home style crash and burn formats. 

Here's practical simple test for Hannibal Lecture. Of course the rest of the Slot Gang can is welcome to kibitz; but no fair peeking back or ahead senior members. This is only a test to establish a frame of reference that is relative to our corner of the modeling genre. Naturally failing at this Triple Dog Dare will leave your tongue stuck to the flag pole with the whole class laughing.... or ya could just opt out, run home and put yer footy pajammas on, then shoot yer eye out.



Please look at the following pix and tell us what the finish is: Future? or Clearcoat? or....? Not only are there a few gimmees, there are also a few jokers in this deck.


TR-2 _Future by Nuther Dave_









Mini _Future by Nuther Dave_









Orange Crush _Sprayed Goop_










Ole Blue _Sprayed Goop WITH Future top coat_









904 _Future by Nuther Dave_









Grape of Wrath _Duplicolor Lacquer_









Stang _Future by Nuther Dave_









Buggy _Future by Nuther Dave_









********


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Luigi _Future by Nuther Dave_









Uther Stang _Future by Nuther Dave_









Spyder _Enamel clear_









Impala _No Top Coat by JoeZ_









Cobra White _Color sanded, hand rubbed, no top coat_









Cobra Olive _Color sanded and machine polished, no top coat_









Willys Ed _Goop Spray with Enamel clear_









Willys CJ _Goop spray, not top coat_


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Willys Speedline _Factory finish_









Shoehorn Coupe _Lacqer clear_









Punkin Jack _Goop spray_









Blue Willy_Goop Spray_









Squirreling Moose _Goop Spray_









Splitposter _Goop Spray_









Tail of two Kitties _Color sanded,machine polished_









Edskayee _Goop Spray_









I'll put the answer key up at some point.


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

Bubba 123 said:


> having this issue w/ a couple of models... maybe the paint is a factor..
> will redo & report ASAP..
> 
> Bubba 123


"FUTURE" = "NECTOR Clear-Coat of The GODS!!!!!" (just don't let it get a wet soaking afterwards :thumbsup:

Bubba :wave:
** Note 2 Bill Hall...
Such Artistry!!! is there a "Hall of Fame" for custom cars???
YOU would definitely be "IN" it !!!!!


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Bill Hall said:


> So based on that myopic Dark Ages dogma, we wouldnt use cleanser to pre-scrub before painting? Peroxide for oxidation, or rubbing compound to sand seams before painting, clear desk tape for fine custom masking, sponge and window silicone for tires, RTV for break away parts mounting? Good lord dont even think of using Easy Off or Pinesol to strip a crappy paint job; let alone watch knobs for radiator caps, shower curtains for tonneaus, paperclips for windshield frames, o-rings for front tires, drill blanks for axles. fishing line for tail lenses, cassette boxes for windshields, and an as yet untapped virtually infinite number of adaptations NOT REALLY INTENDED FOR USE.


 I still stand by what I said before - why use a screwdriver for a job that requires a hammer? You know that they NOW make those things (professionally) so that you don't need to use some rogue parts to simulate the real thing since we are no longer in the DARK AGES, and therefore NO NEED for DOGMA, just proper knowledge of what to use, and how to use it correctly. You can use wax and silicone remover to strip paint as this is what it is designed for. Rubbing compound is for smoothing paint, not smoothing edges - use wet sanding paper for that. They also make a liquid mask for painting since Scotch tape tears to easily, and is too hard to remove, and doesn't always come off, or leave smooth lines when painted. You can use toilet bowl cleaner to simulate oxidation on chrome, or nickel plated parts for that "relic look". There are websites like this dedicated to professional modeling techniques such as "Fine scale" that show you the RIGHT way to do something without having to guess, or listen to the voice of inexperience. 


Bill Hall said:


> The bottom line is that: When properly applied, the modern UV resistant non yellowing formulation of Future is in fact a viable option for Slot Car enthusiasts who require both ease of application, zero VOC, and door banging durability. Unlike shooting spitwads in your footy pajammas, playing pretend with your Sci Fi Models hanging from yer ceiling on a string; many slot car enthusiasts actually race their models competitively in league, club, or actively in home style crash and burn formats.


WOW! You actually do that?!?!?!?!  Um, from what has already been posted here - future is non yellowing when first applied, but after so many years the U.V. protectant in it breaks down, and doesn't last forever, so it's still NOT recommended to use it! It also ruins decals, and softens certain paints - did you read ALL the posts here, or just mine? 


Bubba 123 said:


> "FUTURE" = "NECTOR Clear-Coat of The GODS!!!!!" (just don't let it get a wet soaking afterwards :thumbsup:


Spoken like a true amateur! Those gods MUST be CRAZY, and are unaware of Krylon clear coat acrylic!!! 

~ Chris ​


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Dyonisis, any pictures of cars you have painted?

Boosted


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Boosted-Z71 said:


> Dyonisis, any pictures of cars you have painted?
> 
> Boosted


I sure do. I even posted them on this very website. NONE of them have floor polish of any kind on them. 

I think this thread has served its' purpose. Now we're just :beatdeadhorse:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

right or wrong ...
folks are going to do what they prefer.
telling them they are not worthy because of their choice is bad form and karma.
which brings me to Boy George singing "Karma Chameleon"


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Amateurs beating a dead horse? How clever. 

C'mon now? Your not quitting this thread just because your rather curt, narrow minded Wikipedia based lecture ricocheted off a topic you know nothing about. No reason to run off in the same abrupt manner with which you condescendingly swooped in .... without at least learning a few things. 

Considering that once us amateurs have factored down your contribution to this thread; we're left with your espoused, yet woefully unsubstantiated prowess, a repetitious "Cry Long" Acrylic monologue, and smattering of modeling web links. I guess you really told us what's what. No doubt about it, you have established who the amateur is with complete certainty.

Like ALL the other bomb can spooge goes, it's a fair to middling product in a long line of all the available "schlevarnicks" out there. One does this, the other does that. Seen one, spooged them all. Heat the can, check the nozzle, fart out a test shot...oh! :woohoo: I invented clear.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0YIJQ1jgEI

As amateurs, we're still waiting (laughing) for you to add an iota of credibility to your position and identify which of the 24 test examples are 10+ year old Future applications; and then tell us why they are still perfectly indistinguishable from conventional clear coat. Those actually in the know are sitting on pins and needles just waiting to see how you are going to expertly dispel the tens of thousands of crystal clear applications at large world wide.

The answer is actually the archives here. :hat: 

Based on your "Voice of Experience"; us amateurs would also like to see a video demo of you expertly getting sandpaper to work in HO scale body seams, moldings, louvers, and other intricate details without cutting the "crisp" off and walking the edges down. SAND PAPER....?! LMAO! Might as well use that hammer you keep blathering on about. :freak: 

FYI: Using "compounds" to smooth, etch, or hone in shadowy or difficult places, that other methods cant; has been around since the dawn of time. For extra credit; Please identify the technique, then cite various examples of how the technique is used. Please list some of the specific materials employed.  

"Rogue Parts"!!!???? Hahahahahaha! Implying that you're just another "Jack in the Box Modeler" who shops exclusively off the rack at Mary Poppins. (Ironically you have anagramed one of the answers for the previous question.)

Dont know how to use desk tape correctly for masking? Apparently. I find this hysterically funny, and it goes to MY point. Just because you cant accept, master, envision, or comprehend alternative techniques, methods, and applications; doesnt mean that other more experienced craftsman and artisans cant or wont strive to add another bolt to their quiver, most especially when it comes to fit and finish work. Properly applied Future works great for the many who choose it. Just because it's not my first choice, doesnt mean I dont know how to use it correctly; or understand it's advantages and drawbacks.....because I HAVE actually used it. 

As you still havent turned in your homework, posted any examples of your work to support your position, and your photo album is empty; 

your combined score over in Slot Alley is a perfect zero and your "Future" is bleak ... good job, you really showed us. 

So indeed, there is critical oxygen deprivation in your hammer. Perhaps from prolonged "CryLong" exposure. But it's probably best you run along back to a Universe far far away and check the hull plating on your Death Star for leakage, just in case. :tongue:


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

...

*Bill, Dionysis,*



















Fifteen yards each.

Please note that *RjAFX*'s original question 


> Gents may I ask what's the best non yellowing rattle can clear coat ...


was addressed to "Gents." 
Where I come from, that's short for "Gentlemen." 

Let's rise to *Rj*'s expectations, shall we?

-- D


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Dyonisis said:


> I sure do. I even posted them on this very website. NONE of them have floor polish of any kind on them.
> /QUOTE]
> 
> Any clue as to where, I looked in your profile to see if they were there and they were not
> ...


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

I have never seen any kind of paint that is made just for hard slot car bodies, so insisting that we use a dedicated product seems pointless to me. There are solvent and water based paints for clear slot car bodies, but for paint that has to go on the outside of a hard body you are stuck with using a general hobby or automotive paint. Some people like Krylon Fusion, which at least is made to go on plastics. If you need to coat decals things can get tricky. What works for static models might not be appropriate for slot cars that usually take a lot of abuse.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

hmmm, do waxed floors take a lot of abuse?


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Bill Hall said:


> Amateurs beating a dead horse? How clever.
> 
> C'mon now? Your not quitting this thread just because your rather curt, narrow minded Wikipedia based lecture ricocheted off a topic you know nothing about. No reason to run off in the same abrupt manner with which you condescendingly swooped in .... without at least learning a few things.
> 
> ...


Now YOU'RE being demeaning! It seems that no matter what I say that you're going to piss down my leg, and tell me that it's raining.  Do you NOT realize that you're now contradicting what the original post, and the others after supporting the reason why I don't use Future? It seems that all you are now doing is trying to come up with a half-assed excuse to belittle me because you, and the other guy are pissed off at what I said because you think I'm condescending. COOL YOUR DAMNED JETS!!! You're overthinking this whole thing, and trying to justify something that came about from sheer desperation, and ignorance which is not an excuse to do the wrong thing. I'm not poo-pooing everything that you can alternately use to build models with, but I'm not going to support using something that is not for the purpose you guys intend simply because you either refuse, or don't know how to use acrylic spray paint, or whatever excuse you come up with to do so!! Your shitty comments aren't necessary, and are undermining what the original thought here was. You've obviously missed the point, and are offended as if you thought up, made, and sell future itself! This is a bash whoever you feel like thread just because we disagree on what to spray over a model, slot car, or other item. This stuff is never intended to use on models, and it NEVER WILL! GET A CLUE! You wonder why it's yellowed, and why it has destroyed your decals, or made it impossible to fix??? Are you KIDDING ME?!?!?! Look, I wasn't calling everyone here an amateur, but none of the people who have posted so far are professional modelers who do this for a living, and as far as my models being posted - I put them in THREADS, not just a few pictures. I don't pay any attention to the member profiles anyway.


Dslot said:


> ...
> 
> *Bill, Dionysis,*
> 
> ...


 Really? Did you ever read ALL the comments here, or just the last few?



Boosted-Z71 said:


> Dyonisis said:
> 
> 
> > I sure do. I even posted them on this very website. NONE of them have floor polish of any kind on them.
> ...


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Today, 11:31 AM
Dyonisis

" ..... I'M DONE HERE. I'm unsubscribing to this thread so don't leave any other comments here thinking that I'll read them in an effort to try to prove yourself(ves) right no matter what anyone elses' experiences are. ..... "

again after ..........?

Yesterday, 11:08 AM
Dyonisis

" ...... I think this thread has served its' purpose."

.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

No Sonny, it's your tiny tude that demeans. You're right about at least one thing; I've never entered the professional ranks of the Footy Pajama Sci Fi Nationals...

... but I have built a coupla slot cars and dabbled as a ... cough... ameteur in the real world, with 2 best in show: (68 Camaro Ragtop and a 73 911T Targa). 5 best in class, a second, and a third: (69 911 S). A 370 of 400 in regional concurs (35 Studebaker President); along with a personal portfolio of high end custom, restoration, and conservation work some of which is in museums and private collections. A fair chunk of which likely predates your birth.

Knowing that you have never actually used future, it was humorous beyond description to have you rant on repetitiously about acrylics, because .... er.... um.....Future is a water based Acrylic so the rules are just slighty different. Di di di! (Carlos Mencia)

Ironic, idin' it. You spraying floor wax on yer Klingons, Space Marines, and such, using a volatile carrier instead instead of water. Ah hahahahahahaha! 

The two primary issues with the application of Future are what and whether the base is fully cured (outgassed); and the overall thickness of the application. Ideally you want it warmed/thinned for dipping so that it sheets off, leaving a nice, uniformly thin layer. Any subsequent layers should only be applied after the previous layer is cured. Never use old Future that has been exposed to atmosphere for a prolonged period.

We're frequently asked what we collect. One of the things I collect is cars by Nuther Dave. Notoriously smooth mechanics inside, and crystal clear smooth finishes outside. Using what....?

The previous test has now been edited to include the answers. _Shown in Italics_ 

Please note that I purposely framed the white portions to illustrate the clarity of his applications, many of which are approaching 10 years old, with no hermetic protection. I also included a broader range of finishes to induce some doubt or confusion. In the end, what has been instructive to me, if not extremely noteworthy; is that between the various finishes used, the variance in the quality of shine and depth is quite minimal at best. Although nothing beats the shine of a flawless Lacquer spray, or the depth of a color sanded machined polish, the "Future" still looks quite bright to me.


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