# New to the Forum: Basic Questions



## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

Howdy folks,

I'm new to this forum so it might take me a minute to get broken in as every forum has its own social etiquette. In the meantime...

My name is Steve and I'm getting back into modeling. I used to do it when I was younger and started to really get serious into it before I quit. Now I have a good long winter ahead of me so I figured I'd start getting into it again. I used to do German WWII aircraft, but I'm wanting to do Subaru STi rally cars - don't ask, just like 'em!

Seems that for this style, 1/24 is pretty standard. Most of the models I see are Tamiya or Revell - seen a few Fujimi too. I used to do Revell back when I was a kid doing US fighter jets, and I wasn't really impressed with the quality, but I know nothing of Tamiya. Can somebody give me some details on these model manufacturers (quality-wise) and some of the better online stores? I need to know what I'm getting, and the best place to get it.

Thanks!


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## superduty455 (Jun 21, 2000)

First off, Welcome back to modeling Steve and welcome to the forums. 
I can certainly understand coming back and not knowing what is what.

First, if you really love those Scoobies then I highly recommend the Tamiya kits. They are a blast to build, easy and look darn near perfect out of the box with some care in detailing. You cannot go wrong. 

Another company to look at is Hasegawa if you are into rally cars, they have a nice selection and build up to almost Tamiya standards.

The last sentence there pretty much sums up Tamiya. They are the standard that other kits are held to when an item of the same comes up. 

Vintage kits on ebay are a good start and probably the cheaper route. There are a lot of on-line vendors and I recommend Megahobby.com, they are a sponsor here on the forums and have quite a selection with very competitive pricing.
Their are others as well.

Please ask away with all your questions. We all had to start somewhere and the internet is such an invaluable source for that info. Especially this and other boars with so much knowledge.

Chris


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The Royal Royce of modelling-Tamiya.


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## aurora fan (Jan 18, 1999)

Welcome to the boards! Good time ahead!


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## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

Thanks guys! I feel all warm and fuzzy inside!


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## superduty455 (Jun 21, 2000)

Kampfzentrum said:


> Thanks guys! I feel all warm and fuzzy inside!


You're going to fit in perfectly here. :thumbsup:

Chris


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## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

superduty455 said:


> You're going to fit in perfectly here. :thumbsup:


Perfect!

I have a question, my first car is going to be a 2001 Subaru WRC Impreza rally car (Tamiya, that I got from eBay pretty reasonable). I went to Megahobby - thanks Superduty - and seen that there is a photo-etch kit for this make. I'm interested in getting it but have never used it, is there something I should know about these? Is the adhesive already on it? Or does it require a special kind of glue? Are they pliable - like a sticker - or stiff and will hold its shape?

I also seen a "template comp. fiber decal set" - what is that?!

Curious.

I also picked up a 2005 Subaru WRC Impreza rally car (Hasegawa, another reasonable eBay buy) with photo-etch inside!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

I have limited experience with the stuff. Basically it's brass or copper sheet where they've used a photo chemical process to make an acid resistant outline of the parts on metal stock and then eat away the unwanted metal using acid.

Once you have the parts cut and trimmed (they make hobby cutters for this, don't use your wife's favorite sewing shears) you use super glue (CA) to adhere it. Some parts have to be bent to form 3 dimensional objects. They make hobby "brakes" (benders) to do this. Most of the stuff I've seen is just to add detail to the surface of something where maybe it has to be bent just a little to make it conform.

Here's a tutorial on using photo etch (PE) that looks pretty good.

These are better than the good old days now with the internet to put you in touch with manufacturers, vendors, and other builders.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Not sure why you would want to join considering it can get a tad bit wacky around here but WELCOME any way!!:freak::tongue:


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## superduty455 (Jun 21, 2000)

To add to what Steve244 mentioned about P.E.. You can also use clear coat on the back of the piece you are going to apply to say, a body panel. Let it tack up a bit before you put it on and if something happens it dries clear, and could be wet sanded(which will probably be another question for you later on).

Super glue works great since it will bond most things, but you have to be super careful if you are using it to apply to body panels due to the paint and smudging etc...

The Carbon Fiber template set. That will have a black and white sheet of all the components that will need to be covered in Carbon Fiber decal. These are nice since you don't have to make your own template. It's all done for you and you simply have to cut the template out and trace it over your CF. That stuff applies like a decal, but you'll have to work patience into the equation especially if you have compound curves etc.. I'd say do small pieces of it at a time to get comfortable with it and just utilize semigloss black or black to make it seem like it would be CF. 

Sounds like you're starting to get a collection. Welcome to being a builder/Collector!

Chris


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## RallyJack (Jul 10, 2009)

*Welcome Steve*

As a fellow WRC enthusiast, Welcome Steve! After you get a few Tamihawajimi WRC kits under your belt and get used to PE and making seat harnesses, you will want to build models of WRC cars Tamihawajimi does not make. SEAT, Skoda, Audi SPORTS, Lancias, etc. 

Here are a few sites that sell Multi-media (resin, PE etc.) WRC kits.

Reji Models -Multi Media from Czech Republic, good kits, details, and decals. Note Audi Quatrro Sport.
http://www.rejimodel.cz/

Profil 24 - Multi Media from France, good kits, details, Note Lancia Delta With full engine detail and great price for this sort of kit.
http://www.profil24-models.com/ 

Profile 24, and several others (RENAISSANCE, Le Mans Miniatures, Fisher) available from Island Collectibles, Ed is a great guy to trade with there. 
http://www.islandcollectibles.net/ 

There is also Fisher Models for Multi Media LeMans type cars of reasonable prices and great fit. Paul is a great guy too!
http://fishermodels.com/

If I can help, just ask.

Here is my plan for a Diorama of the WRC Team Subaru service site at the Rallye San Remo. There were 4 cars entered which was done only once or twice a year. 
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php?photo=42837&cat=509

Here is the Aerial shot. 
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php?photo=42838&cat=509

I have the 34 vehicle kits, just need the room to build it in 3 parts, wll be nearly 7 ft square.


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## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

RallyJack said:


> As a fellow WRC enthusiast, Welcome Steve!


Good Lord man! You are not only going to do the car, but the whole site? That is pretty neat. I am interested to see how that all turns out. I'll have to look into those Tamihawajimi WRC kits you were talking about.

I'm into the WRC deal because I am also a Impreza owner/rallyX driver. I've competed in a number of the local events out this way but still have a lot to go with my build. I bought an RS (mistake) and am looking to swap out the EJ253 to an STi EJ257. I have a build thread on DI.com if interested (dirtyimpreza.com).

So basically I'm just a Subaru guy, I'm not sure if I'll make it to the Lancias and Citroens. But we'll see, I've seen some kits and I'm already a bit interested.

What is a resin kit?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Kampfzentrum said:


> What is a resin kit?


Typically cottage industry kits lovingly made from 2 part epoxy resin poured into soft molds in someone's garage (and thus the name "garage kits"). As far as cars go they are usually just the body and a few trim pieces and require the purchase of a "donor" styrene mass produced kit for the stuff that goes in it.

The making of the masters and molds is in itself an arcane art. Garage Kit makers are usually a little bit touched (but in a good way).

Some examples here.


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## RallyJack (Jul 10, 2009)

*Resin Kits*

Steve,

Check out some of those links I posted to you, those are all resin kits. Those are full kits (full detail or curb-side with no engine), not conversions. Some of those mfgrs also make conversion kits for a broader range of collecting. Conversions are usually cheaper because of only providing a body and few parts and the donor kit is a mass produced injection plastic kit making a lower total cost. 

When you are ready to try a resin kit, I suggest a Fisher kit as they (at leat all the ones I have so far) fit well, cost less and do not require adustments with a Moto-tool! With a resin kit remember, before you grind, will a hair dryer or hot water allow you to bend (carefully, gently) the part to fit?

I will soon post my Adam-12 '68 Plymouth 4dr Patrol Car. It is a resin conversion from 
http://www.resinrealm.net/Star/RRGalleries/RR_All.html with an AMT Plymouth Roadrunner donor kit. I did the decal artwork and printed them on my inkjet printer. Adam-12 was my son's favorite TV show when he was growing up and it will look good on his trophy shelf in his Police Chief Office!

By the way, I was just trying to be funny with "Tamihawajimi" it was intended to be a generic term for the mfgrs of the better injection molded WRC car kits Tami(ya)haw(segaw)a Fu(jimi)

Cheers:wave:

Jack


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## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

Resin kits, eh? Maybe I'll wait until I'm a bit more seasoned before taking those on.

So I managed to find all of my old modeling supplies from when I did the German warbird and found some old things - maybe you guys can enlighten me on them:

Parafilm "M": I remember that this stuff was for trim painting, but I could never really get it to go on and stay on. I would stretch in onto a part, then begin fine cutting and the film would just all come off. I am wondering if there is a better way to do intricate trim painting. Or if I can get the film to stay on better - a small blast from a heatgun?

Solvaset: From what I remember, you put it on with the decal, the decal scrunches up - worrying you for a minute - then expands and fits into every nook and cranny of your model. Right?

OK, last one for this thread, if I mess up on a painting, can I just brush in mineral spirits and wash the paint away?


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## RallyJack (Jul 10, 2009)

*Hi Steve*

Steve, unfortunately, different decal makers use different components that may or may not require "fixing solutions" to set their decals. Test a decal or small section of decal that will not be used with Solveset, Microscale Micro Set, Microscale Micro Sol etc. to make sure which to use. Some solutions will soften some decals to unusable.

For masking, not being familiar with Parafilm, I use various masking tapes, latex Liquid Masking Film, Silly Putty, for patterns I buy a package of inkjet blank adhesive paper and print scans of the pattern. 

For headlights, there are several choices; for small scale, various railroad hobby lights are available. I happen to like Philly Cream Cheese dip and the inner liner is a super chrome mylar "foil". With various appropriate sized hole punches, I cut out the reflector (slightly over size), apply Bare Metal Foil Adhesive to the headlight reflector and the dull side of my punched "foil" and after drying, I press the foil into the headlight. I am sure others here will share their headlight methods with you.

Cheers:wave:,
Jack

A few shots:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42861 
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42860 
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42859 

1/43 scale resin kit
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42857 
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42858
yes, that is a wired & plumbed engine


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## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

That Peugeot looks awesome! The resin model looks like the photo is scratchy, or is that just the model? Very nice work.

Question, if I spray gloss coat over clear plastic, what is the outcome? Will it go on without streaking, etc.?

Also, I have this tinting that came with the Hasagawa model, is it a self-adhering layer or do I have to apply the glue? It looks like 1 ply, but I could be wrong. Don't want to pick at it excessively either.


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## RallyJack (Jul 10, 2009)

Steve,

The tinting film is "cling" stuff and should adhere from static electricity.

The scratchy photo is because of using a "sharpen" feature in editing software on an extreme close-up of a tiny 1/43 scale model with a camera with no macro feature. 

I later found that with a cheap 14 megapixel camera, photos can be set to max and create very sharply focused photos of about 2.4 megabytes. Then with editing software (MS Digital Image Pro) you can zoom in for close ups that will be sharp and have depth of field.

Unless, you have a specific need for gloss on clear, use Future acrylic floor wax (dip) on windshields etc. prior to installation. Mask the clear work before gloss coat. Having Raced & Rallied years and years ago. I gloss the rally/race cars paint before decals. That is how we always did our cars. I painted them with DelStar Delthane Polyureathane Catylst set Acrylic that was clear coated over the main color and stripes. Decals and nubber panels were applied with no clearcoat.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42868

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42867

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/42869


Ta Ta,
Jack


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## Kampfzentrum (Aug 25, 2010)

Well, a bit of time has passed since I posted last, a few things...

I got the 2001 Subaru Impreza WRC car (Tamiya) and the 2005 Subaru Impreza WRC car (Hasegawa). The 2001 package came from China and the handlers smashed the package right where the vehicle main shell was located; I got a refund and actually might pull this off, the back window is cracked and the roof crossmembers - between front/rear windows are bent, but I repaired a bit.

The differences between the Tamiya and Hasegawa models are vast in comparison to my tastes. Being intimate with the GG/GD Impreza years, I see much more attention to suspension and underbody components from Tamiya, whereas Hasegawa seemed to want to get as many parts on the sprue sheet as possible. True, the Hasegawa model did come with photo-etched parts in the package, but it still does not win me over. From here on out, Tamiya all the way. I might even buy another 2005 WRC car but from Tamiya.

So I've started up the painting and began applying decals when - WHOA! - WTF?! The decals were excessively thin from when I used to do them and I almost messed half of them up just putting STi logos on a seat! Furthermore, it appears that Solvaset only ruined the decals.

Here's my deal, these WRC cars have some crucial decals that can make/break the model if botched. I've applied decals before, but for some reason these things are scaring me, any hints/tips?


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## RallyJack (Jul 10, 2009)

Steve,
Every printer of decals uses different inks, over-coats and paper. Always test a decal from your current kit that is not to be used on the model with various setting solutions. The various solutions have varing strengths, ie MicroScale makes both MicroSol & MicroSet. It has been my experience, Tamiya decals do not need solutions unless the particular decal will have compound curves and then only a mild solution was needed. But be aware, next month, Tamiya could contract with a different decal supplier so ALWAYS TEST FIRST!

Cheers,
Jack


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