# 22" cut-a-way 2nd pilot "E" (as Republic); 6 yrs. in the making!



## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

I know all of the hot talk right now is about R2's 1/350 scale TOS "E" (I've reserved one myself; hope the Mrs. doesn't find out too soon!), but I just finished this build this past weekend and thought that I'd put up a few photos and see what everyone thought. I can use all of the advice I can get!

It took 6 years to complete because, well, life intervened. First we had an extension put on the house, then my son was born, then I finished the new basement, etc. I finally got back to this and have been working on it the past few weeks.

Anyway, here are some pics:


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

Now some with the lights on. I tried to be as accurate as possible, but I did take some "artistic license" in lighting the nacelle domes like the production version. It just seemed to me that it would be a waste not to:














































The lit nacelle dome up close. You really can't appreciate it properly without seeing the motion of it. I hope to record it and post it on Youtube when I get a chance (and my wife shows me how...):










And here she is alongside her "sister ship", the Lexington, which I built around 10 years ago:


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

And here's the Lex by herself:



















Hope you like these. Again, any comments and suggestions are certainly welcome.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

they look great! did you use DLM parts?


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

Yes, I did indeed use DLM parts, so I need to give credit where credit is due. Don is making some really great products; very easy to work with and use, and great instructions.

I did make an addition on the lighted domes, by using the method that Ken Huegel created several years back:

http://culttvman.com/main/?p=7703

They just seemed to go very naturally together, and I'm very pleased with the results.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I'll make a comment when I pick my jaw up off the floor! Wow!


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

All I can say is FANTASTIC!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Kudos to you, very nicely done!!!


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Absolutely Excellent!








Just enough weathering, and the lights are amazing. I agree the Nacelle lights on the Republic are the right touch, I never liked the unlit versions on the series, lack of realty.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

GREAT job Scotty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Superb! I have two pairs of kens parts stashed somewhere too.


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## Fraley1701 (Sep 3, 2003)

Very nice work! Love the lighted warp engines with the pilot version spikes! :thumbsup:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Heck, that's beautiful!!


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

I want to thank everyone for the warm comments on my build. As this was the first time I have posted anything on this site, I was a bit concerned as to how it would be received; I guess I shouldn't have been, as everyone has been very supportive (and I should have known better...).



Lloyd Collins said:


> Absolutely Excellent!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Lloyd. I took great pains to really make the weathering subtle, as my research indicated that the pilot "E" had very little, if any, weathering applyed to it. One thing that I did do, and you can't really see in these photos, are grid and panel lines, that was a long process of applying paint with airbrush and friskit masks. I based it on the dreaded Smithsonian restoration, but again did it in a very subtle way as to not detract from the overall appearance. The depth that I was able to achieve, especially on the Lexington, is almost three dimensional, and I'm very pleased with the result.

I'm going to try to take some photos using a different camera to see if I can get those details to come through.

Again, thanks to everyone for all of the kind words; I certainly appreciate it.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Superb job on both ships! The lighting effects really look great! Cudos to you!


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## SDF-3 (Mar 15, 2010)

Scotty K said:


> I want to thank everyone for the warm comments on my build. As this was the first time I have posted anything on this site, I was a bit concerned as to how it would be received; I guess I shouldn't have been, as everyone has been very supportive (and I should have known better...).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I agree with all the others excellent work!. I'm glad you didn't put the rust ring on the Republic, because, I honestly think that the ring detracts when put on, and it is not feasible from a tech standpoint. You can't rust in space without oxygen..lol


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

SDF-3 said:


> ...I'm glad you didn't put the rust ring on the Republic, because, I honestly think that the ring detracts when put on, and it is not feasible from a tech standpoint. You can't rust in space with oxygen..lol


While I do indeed understand the actual physics of it from a "realism" standpoint, mainly I didn't put the rust ring on the Republic because it wasn't there on the 2nd pilot "E" in that incarnation. It _is_ present on the production version, however, and so it went on the Lexington build. And although we always assume it is a "rust ring", are we absolutely certain that's what it is? I wonder....

Thanks for the comments, though. I greatly appreciate it.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

KUROK said:


> Superb! I have two pairs of kens parts stashed somewhere too.


It would seem to me that those jewel lenses are like gold now, KUROK, so hold onto them, and by all means, use them! They really are great at diffusing the light quite nicely, and the added feature of the illusion of "spokes" just makes it that much better.

I originally got them from Ken when I built the Lexington. When I was planning out the Republic, I found that he was no longer making them, which left me in a bit of a quandry. I figured it was as good a time as any to learn how to cast my own, and, after acquiring the necessary materials and following his simple and straight-forward instructions, I was able to reproduce a couple of really good knock-offs (in fact, in all modesty, I think they came out a bit better than his! ). So now I had my parts, and I learned a new skill. I think the results speak for themselves.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

OK, I had a bit of better luck with the camera today. Although there is still a bit of "wash out" to these photos, I think they can give an idea about the grid and panel lines that I had mentioned earlier.

Here are a couple of the top side of the primary hull of the Lexington. These same details appear on the Republic, but in a much more understated state:



















The way that the color breaks, it gives the illusion of an actual texture and raised detail there, but it's all paint job.

Here are the secondary hull and one of the nacelles:


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## Seashark (Mar 28, 2006)

Outstanding work! Love the subtle weathering and panel lines.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Yep! I just love the subtlety in this! Well done!


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

that looks great, never seen one of these in person before, you dont have to display it as a cut a way? it comes with both sides of the hull ?


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

woof359 said:


> that looks great, never seen one of these in person before, you dont have to display it as a cut a way? it comes with both sides of the hull ?


Yes, it's quite common to build this up complete, rather than the cutaway. If you build it up as the cut version, you can put it together and take it apart at will to show what the interiors look like.

By the way, I just completed doing a video of both ships, and I put it up on Youtube for everyone to take a look at. This way you can see all of the lighting effects in all of their glory. I'm particularly proud of the nacelle domes...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Just when I thought I'd seen the best there was............you had to come along and up the anti-matter................great work. thanks for posting all the pics and the vid. Unbelievable. and you have two.......


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Scotty K said:


> I'm particularly proud of the nacelle domes...


As you should be! Those look incredible! How'd you do that?


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

> As you should be! Those look incredible! How'd you do that?


One of the really neat options with the DLM parts is a lighting kit, which you can assemble and put into the model. I also added a couple of gems to diffuse the light to give it the "spoke" effect, using Ken Huegel's method, which you can check out here:

http://culttvman.com/main/?p=7703


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## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Dang, outstanding.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Very well done... I have to say... I read how you did it... but I would find it very hard to do those grid lines and panels like you have here.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

starmanmm said:


> Very well done... I have to say... I read how you did it... but I would find it very hard to do those grid lines and panels like you have here.


Thanks for the comments, starmanmm. To be perfectly honest, to get that effect is not all that difficult, but it does require a great deal of patience. And as the saying goes, if I can do it, anyone can.

First, you lay down your base coat, which in this case, is Testors Model Master light ghost grey. As that is drying, you need to cut some masks; I used Friskit here, which I purchased at an artist's supply store. You need to do four sets; using a pointed compass, I scored all of the circles for the top and bottom of the primary hull, then using a protractor and a scale ruler, cut the straight lines from the center of the third and fourth circle on out to get those lines. Then after the initial paint dries, I started with the straight lines, which look like very long and narrow pizza wedges, applying every other mask, to the top and bottom. I then used the next lightest shade, which I think is Military grey, which has a slightly greenish tint to it, and applyed it with the airbrush very lightly to each leading edge. After that has dried, I then applied the other straight lines top and bottom, and did the same thing. After that, I then did every other circle, sprayed the leading edge of those, and then repeated the process for a fourth time. After that has dried and cured, I went back over the whole thing using the base coat of light ghost grey yet again, just dusting over it very lightly so as not to completely cover up the underlying color. I went over it very lightly a few times until I achieved the depth of color that I wanted, and that was it.

As I said, it does require quite a bit of patience to do, but it was well worth it. In all honesty, that was the very first time I had ever attempted to do something like that, and I was very happy with the results. So again, if I can do it, anyone can. You'll never know unless you try!


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Scotty - did you use the DLM Waddell Warp Drive lighting kit? If so, that was designed by me based on an older system I'd done when working on a TOS E model for a friend. I also picked up Ken Hugel's "crystals" but in my experiments with it and my nacelle effect I found the clockwise (starboard nacelle) / counterclockwise (port nacelle) direction got lost. It's kind of hard to tell with the video - how does it look on yours?


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

Those are wonderful builds! Thanks for sharing!


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

RossW said:


> Scotty - did you use the DLM Waddell Warp Drive lighting kit? If so, that was designed by me based on an older system I'd done when working on a TOS E model for a friend. I also picked up Ken Hugel's "crystals" but in my experiments with it and my nacelle effect I found the clockwise (starboard nacelle) / counterclockwise (port nacelle) direction got lost. It's kind of hard to tell with the video - how does it look on yours?


Hi Ross!

I did indeed use the DLM Waddell kit (in fact, today I was just viewing your build over on the CultTVMan website showing what you did). Of course, when I just saw your name here, it just kind of hit me ("Oh yeah! I know this guy!").

First off, *THANK YOU* for designing that circuit. Had it not been for your work and Don's, I never would have been able to do what I did.

To answer your question in regard to using Ken's crystals, the video doesn't really convey what one can see in person; it does actually look much better than what is presented there. I think part of the problem here is that I needed to set the potentiometer speed somewhat faster than what I wanted. With the _Republic_ build, for some unexplained reason that I couldn't figure out, when I would set it for a slower rotation, the porthole lights would "pulse" in relation to the nacelle light's speed. I had an extra board that I assembled, and the same thing happened. When I set it at a higher speed, the effect, while still there somewhat, was diminished. The interesting thing here is that when I built the _Lexington_, that didn't occur at all. The effect on that ship is much better using the crystals, and you really get the spoke effect. The only problem there is that they appear to be spinning in the wrong direction! That could very well be because I might have put the nacelle light discs on the incorrect sides.

Ross, is there any possibility that the results that you observed from your experiments with Ken's crystals were because yours is a 3-step sequence, while Ken's work was based on a 5-step?

I'm just spit-balling here, grasping at straws...


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## DL Matthys (May 8, 2004)

Scott
This build looks pretty cool!:thumbsup:
I'm pretty sure the WWB circuits will stay in production.

It's been very easy to adapt to fit nacelle circuit discs into the AMT 18" Classic, PL 1/350 NX-01 and soon "whatever" diameter for the new tooled Revell 1/600 and PL TOS 1/350. I did give a try at the 1/350 already just before the KTM meltdown fiasco...<G> but it worked out pretty good. I've experimented with other special shaped LEDs and colors. 

Digi-Key is so close by to Fargo... It's like a candy store!


DL Matthys
www.dlmparts.com
[email protected]
Make it Glow!


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

DL Matthys said:


> Scott
> It's been very easy to adapt to fit nacelle circuit discs into the AMT 18" Classic, PL 1/350 NX-01 and soon "whatever" diameter for the new tooled Revell 1/600 and PL TOS 1/350. I did give a try at the 1/350 already just before the KTM meltdown fiasco...<G> but it worked out pretty good. I've experimented with other special shaped LEDs and colors.


Hi, Don! Thanks so much for the nice comments; coming from you, it is certainly high praise, indeed, and as I had mentioned previously, I would not have been able to accomplish what I did without your fine work, so for that I must also thank you!

I'm glad to hear that this will be able to work in the 1/350. I'm looking forward to getting my paws on that kit and giving it a go, so you know I'll be using the circuit board and discs for that.



> Digi-Key is so close by to Fargo... It's like a candy store!


Man, I am soooo jealous of you right now!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Scotty K said:


> Thanks for the comments, starmanmm. To be perfectly honest, to get that effect is not all that difficult, but it does require a great deal of patience. And as the saying goes, if I can do it, anyone can.
> 
> First, you lay down your base coat, which in this case, is Testors Model Master light ghost grey. As that is drying, you need to cut some masks; I used Friskit here, which I purchased at an artist's supply store. You need to do four sets; using a pointed compass, I scored all of the circles for the top and bottom of the primary hull, then using a protractor and a scale ruler, cut the straight lines from the center of the third and fourth circle on out to get those lines. Then after the initial paint dries, I started with the straight lines, which look like very long and narrow pizza wedges, applying every other mask, to the top and bottom. I then used the next lightest shade, which I think is Military grey, which has a slightly greenish tint to it, and applyed it with the airbrush very lightly to each leading edge. After that has dried, I then applied the other straight lines top and bottom, and did the same thing. After that, I then did every other circle, sprayed the leading edge of those, and then repeated the process for a fourth time. After that has dried and cured, I went back over the whole thing using the base coat of light ghost grey yet again, just dusting over it very lightly so as not to completely cover up the underlying color. I went over it very lightly a few times until I achieved the depth of color that I wanted, and that was it.
> 
> As I said, it does require quite a bit of patience to do, but it was well worth it. In all honesty, that was the very first time I had ever attempted to do something like that, and I was very happy with the results. So again, if I can do it, anyone can. You'll never know unless you try!


*Big favor:* could you do a _*super-simplified*_, _*super-quickie*_ video or picture demo, perhaps with a crappy piece of scrap styrene disk-with maybe just one little section of how you cut and laid the mask? I'd love to see just a 4 minute mask cutting and lay down. 

I just can't get my head around it with just words.......


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> *Big favor:* could you do a _*super-simplified*_, _*super-quickie*_ video or picture demo, perhaps with a crappy piece of scrap styrene disk-with maybe just one little section of how you cut and laid the mask? I'd love to see just a 4 minute mask cutting and lay down.
> 
> I just can't get my head around it with just words.......


To be honest, I'm somewhat pressed for time at this point, what with job responsibilities and whatnot, but I'll try to do something for you when I get a moment. Maybe some pictures with explanation.

I'll see what I can do for you to help you out with this.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

D'oh! posted in wrong thread. Sorry...


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Scotty K said:


> To be honest, I'm somewhat pressed for time at this point, what with job responsibilities and whatnot, but I'll try to do something for you when I get a moment. Maybe some pictures with explanation.
> 
> I'll see what I can do for you to help you out with this.


How bout now?
-Jim


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## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

Fantastic job! Looks like the ship from the series. 

Sean


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Great job on both!! Excellent work in all respects! I like the choices you made on the lighting and electronics. The paint job is superb! :thumbsup:


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Scotty K wrote:


> To be honest, I'm somewhat pressed for time at this point, what with job responsibilities and whatnot, but I'll try to do something for you when I get a moment. Maybe some pictures with explanation.
> 
> I'll see what I can do for you to help you out with this.


Same here... when you do get the time..... would love to see it also.


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