# Tecumseh LV195EA got me stumped



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

Like the UN says, I am the "New Guy". The grass hasnt slowed down a bit here in Florida and we still have plenty of summer left. My mower wont start and it has me buffaloed. Has a spark and will jump about one eigth of an inch. Fuel line was gummy on the outside and I replaced. Cleaned the carburetor, large jet and the needle valve and all ports. Float seems to be fine as well and sits level. 

Installed new plug and still nothing. Hard to tell if its wet or not. Tried spraying a little gas into the plug hole and then starting and still nothing. 

Checking for past posts didnt seem to match my issue.

I've worked on cars before but not mowers. Any help for the new guy would be appreciated.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

New Guy said:


> Like the UN says, I am the "New Guy". The grass hasnt slowed down a bit here in Florida and we still have plenty of summer left. My mower wont start and it has me buffaloed. Has a spark and will jump about one eigth of an inch. Fuel line was gummy on the outside and I replaced. Cleaned the carburetor, large jet and the needle valve and all ports. Float seems to be fine as well and sits level.
> 
> Installed new plug and still nothing. Hard to tell if its wet or not. Tried spraying a little gas into the plug hole and then starting and still nothing.
> 
> ...


Do you have good compression?

You may also want to check your flywheel key, as a sheared key can through the ignition timing off.


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

*Thanks for the reply*

I was hoping you would reply as I have read some of your other posts and you seem very knowledgable in this matter. Originally from TX myself. Didnt think to check the compression but will. I have a standard automotive engine compression tester. I assume that will work. Also will check the flywheel key. Is it difficult to access?


----------



## jerome007 (Aug 11, 2010)

Typically if it's a sheared flywheel key the pull start will rip out of your hands due to everything out of time. Of course if you have bad compression, then maybe not. Does the mower feel like it has compression when you pull the starter rope?


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

Thank you as well Jerome007. A little background first, a friend of mine wanted to use the mower and could not get it to start. The time before, while I was using it, it started and ran fine except for a little surging in the throttle as it was running. I chalked it up to a need to clean the carb. 

I checked the compression this morning and was astonished to see that I have zero compression! Doubting my gauge, I put the spark plug in and turned the blade by hand and saw no rebound. Disconnecting the pressure gauge from the compression tester, I blew into the cylinder head and rotated the blade and could hear the air exiting out the muffler and carburetor alternately so it sounds like the intake and exhaust valves are cycling appropriately. There was no indication of any sort of mechanical issue while it was running before. Could it be a stuck valve? Is it difficult to rebuild?


----------



## jerome007 (Aug 11, 2010)

Doubt stuck valve. You can check thorgh by removing breather cover on side of the engine by the muffler. Once that's removed you'll see the 2 valave bases and the springs. If you rotate the engine you'll see the valves moving up and down.

COuld be a few things. Either your piston rings are gone, you have a bad intake valve, or the cylinder head gasket could be blown (had this happen before on a Briggs OHV engine). If it's the rings, I wouldn;t mess with it- too much work to tear down engine and rebuild, it's a gonner. 

But the valve can be replaced and you can lap in a new one- that too is a little time consuming if that's the problem. Typically though if it is a valve the engine may start, but it dies right away and you'll hear a kind of psssst sound as you turn the engine over. There's a guy on you tube by the name of "Davidsfarm", he has some great videos on lawn mower repair and goes over exactly how to re-surface a valve.

If it's the cylinder head gasket you'll know right away when you remove the head b/c a chunk of the gasket would be missing. This would be the easiest fix of the 3. Good luck.


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

I just dont see how the piston rings could be gone. Its never blown blue smoke or used oil. Always kept the oil changed and level up. Wouldnt it have to have been running for this type of failure? The last time it ran, no indication of any problem and shut down like normal. No hiss or any indication of blowing out the head gasket seam. I held my thumb over the sparkplug hole and dont feel any pressure buildup or vacuum as the blade is turned. Never seen anything like it before.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

New Guy said:


> I just dont see how the piston rings could be gone. Its never blown blue smoke or used oil. Always kept the oil changed and level up. Wouldnt it have to have been running for this type of failure? The last time it ran, no indication of any problem and shut down like normal. No hiss or any indication of blowing out the head gasket seam. I held my thumb over the sparkplug hole and dont feel any pressure buildup or vacuum as the blade is turned. Never seen anything like it before.


It could possibly be a stuck valve or one that's just not closing all the way. It's not the head gasket, or the piston rings. You could assemble an engine without the rings and head gasket and you would still get compression albeit not enough to start and run the engine, but enough to register on a compression gauge. I would be more suspect of a broken connecting rod or camshaft. The easiest way to tell is to remove the cylinder head and have a look at the valves and piston operation. Something in there is causing your loss of compression and the fastest way to find out, is to have a look in there to see. 

The videos from "David's Farm" are ok for general reference, but that guy is self taught (obvious from his videos). Some of the videos I have seen are full of misinformation that could end up getting someone in more trouble then they had to begin with. Your really better off getting a service manual for your engine. Then if there is something you don't understand, ask questions until you feel you have a better grasp of what you need to do.


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

*Thanks for the advice*

Looks like that's what I'll be doing this Saturday. Thanks for your advice.


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

Yep, stuck exhaust valve. Seems to drag upon insertion. Feels like it might be bent. Going to replace and lap in. Will keep you posted.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

New Guy said:


> Yep, stuck exhaust valve. Seems to drag upon insertion. Feels like it might be bent. Going to replace and lap in. Will keep you posted.


Be sure to set the clearance before you lap in the new valve.

There are links in the sticky thread to download service manuals that will cover your engine. They will have the proper clearance settings for your engine.


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

Thanks 30-year tech. I dont understand the statement regarding the sticky thread. How do I access it?


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=82284&page=1

Here is a link to the sticky thread with the links to the service manuals. The sticky thread is the first one listed in the 4 cycle section and starts with the word "sticky" then the name of the thread "Helpful Links".


----------



## New Guy (Sep 13, 2010)

Thanks 30 year tech. You were a tremendous help in getting this thing fixed. I really want to thank you for your time and wise advice.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

New Guy said:


> Thanks 30 year tech. You were a tremendous help in getting this thing fixed. I really want to thank you for your time and wise advice.


You are very welcome!


----------

