# Knocking off the Tomy Nubbins



## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Getting ready to do the final tracklaying on the 2-ft. (now 27") layout.

I've frequently seen references on the forum to removing the locking nubbins on the tabs of the Tomy track pieces. Apparently it is supposed to make track joints smoother, and the locking function isn't necessary when track is permanently fastened to a board. 

I'd like to get comments on this. Does everybody agree that it helps?

Should they be removed completely or just reduced in height? What's the best way to do it? Anything to watch out for, or be sure _not_ to do while removing them?

Thanks to all the guys who are so willing to share their experience on this forum. We're all novices on some aspect of the hobby at some time, and it's great to get guidance from the fellows who've "been there, done that." :thumbsup:

-- D


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

It _definitely_ helps to smooth out the track. :thumbsup:

I used a Dremel on a low speed setting with a narrow grinder wheel -- using a hobby knife or something like that would take quite a while longer. Grinding them off turns them to dust, so wear eye protection. Removing the tab that faces down is all that is necessary, the ones pointing up can stay. I zipped mine down flat.

You'll be surprised. We picked up .75 of a second on my friend's big road course the first time we ever did this.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Absolutely, this helps when the pieces are not perfectly butted together everywhere. You can demonstrate the issue very easily by snapping together two pieces of track and pulling them apart slightly. Even with a 1/32" gap you start to see a ramp form where the bump on one track piece starts riding up on top of the bump on the other track piece. Nothing mysterious at that point, bump on top of bump equals bumpy track. The Tomy system assumes you'll have perfectly alignment. Unfortunately, this is rarely the case in practice, even when using a good track design program that determines mathematically that there should be no gaps.

I use a utility knife with a fresh blade to de-bump the track sections.


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Also buy the tomy track clips,they are worth the money


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

Concur....removing the tabs allows a smooth fit even when a little play is required.....


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

I'm glad this came up. This is a big help for me also. Thanks Dslot for bringing up this question and thanks to all of those who replied. Randy.


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## Xence (Oct 2, 2007)

I 5th or 6th this motion. I took mine off with like an exacto blade or something. Think micyou3 did the same on his track as well and his track is definitely real smooth.

Cheers,
Xence


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I left mine on. I think its more realistic.


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## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

*Smoothing upgrade*

After a 2 year hiatus , I'm getting my TYCO bullring oval ready for more C&B action . It needed a few upgrades and now I have the time to do it . 

New Parma controllers , some sort of timing system and first of all , smoothing out the track surface .

The surface is really noticeably rough when running T-Jets . I've had the guide pins catch and the cars sprining back . 

Is it unreasonable to think I can massage the tapered slot area where the track comes together making it a strait transition ? I understand the reasoning behing the tapered entries . Has any of you attempted this and if so , what did you use for filler material ?

Also on the track surface , should I spakle of putty the sectional cracks and seams ?

Thx ,
Gonzo


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

gonegonzo said:


> Is it unreasonable to think I can massage the tapered slot area where the track comes together making it a strait transition ? I understand the reasoning behing the tapered entries . Has any of you attempted this and if so , what did you use for filler material ?
> 
> Also on the track surface , should I spakle of putty the sectional cracks and seams ?
> 
> ...


I do not want to hijack this thread, but you can check out these threads for previous discussions on these questions.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=210466

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=316033

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=204516

Joe


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

I also removed the tab lumps and have been slowly gooping the joints in the slots, but not the top surface. The gooping is a very long process and takes infinite patience. I only work on one lane at a time so the other 3 can be ran on. Once I have one lane done, I'll get a better idea if the other 3 will get this treatment. In the handful of sections I've done, I have to admit, the guide pin clatter is all but eliminated. But if I ever build another track for myself, I will be routing it.

-Paul


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

pshoe64 said:


> I also removed the tab lumps and have been slowly gooping the joints in the slots, but not the top surface. The gooping is a very long process and takes infinite patience. I only work on one lane at a time so the other 3 can be ran on. Once I have one lane done, I'll get a better idea if the other 3 will get this treatment. In the handful of sections I've done, I have to admit, the guide pin clatter is all but eliminated. But if I ever build another track for myself, I will be routing it.
> 
> -Paul


And of course, gooping the joints assumes the track is permanent. I see no way of doing this on a per-piece basis such that the pieces can be moved around.

Joe


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Has to be permanent. Can't take the track apart gracefully (unbroken) after it's gooped.

-Paul


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

pshoe64 said:


> I also removed the tab lumps and have been slowly gooping the joints in the slots, but not the top surface. The gooping is a very long process and takes infinite patience. I only work on one lane at a time so the other 3 can be ran on. Once I have one lane done, I'll get a better idea if the other 3 will get this treatment. In the handful of sections I've done, I have to admit, the guide pin clatter is all but eliminated. But if I ever build another track for myself, I will be routing it.
> 
> -Paul


Where's the "Like" button???


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## BRS Hobbies (Feb 16, 2006)

The AFX track clips really keep the track joints tight which pretty much eliminates any of the tabs sticking up at the track joints. I recommend using the track clips first before removing any material from the underside of the tabs. 

Best regards,
Brian


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

*Stephen King*

0ddly enough I didn't bother looking at this thread until now because I thought you guys were talking about Stephen King's Tommy Knockers.

never mind.
:wave:


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