# Brass gear conversion for AW/JL chassis



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Hey guys! I have been swapping gears this week in some AW/JL chassis and it was suggested in chat I make up a how to write up. I decided to try the video method to do this. Sadly, my video making skills leave much to be desired!! LOL

These short vids hopefully will help you along in deciding whether the process is right for you. First off, let me say that working off the JL/AW chassis gives you a good start, as the arm and mags are basically an upgrade to a stock Aurora arm mag combo. The weak spots on these chassis are mostly in the power train. This upgrade makes for a tight, smooth running chassis, with plenty of torque, and tames an unruly monster into a more manageable driver. 

What you'll need:
1. An AW/JL chassis.
2. Aurora crown gear, pinion gear and shaft, idler gear.
3. Either Aurora axles, or repro axles. (I used RRR axles this time)
4. A 1/16th drill bit, and a dremel.

NOTE!!! Please excuse the sloppy video work!! I don't have a cat to do my filming like Bill Hall does!! LOL

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All told, it takes about 15 minutes to complete the conversion. This is a great way to smooth out these chassis, and use up all those old parts you got sitting around in the parts bins. I will stress again the importance of proper drilling, as it is critical in this conversion. The centerline of the pinion shaft must be moved back when drilling the holes!! If you don't, the idler and driven gears will not mesh correctly!!! It's not a huge amount, only about half the difference in the diameter of the two shafts. Good luck, and have a blast with your improved AW/JL slots!!! :thumbsup:


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

This is cool - Thanks for the vids.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Sorry my focus was off. I'll try to reshoot the videos tomorrow and get the camera to focus better. Where's Gus Hall when you need him??? :lol:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Nice job Joe!

Gus sez use more top light...if yer whiskers arent burning ya need more watts. Additionally, the furry lil bugger goes on to say that it really helps to clamp the camera in the Mr. Roboto helping hands hobby clamp.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Thanks Gus!! I forgot all about my helping hands!! Try again tomorrow. I only have about 30 more chassis to convert!! LOL I wish I had the gears to do all of them...


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## XracerHO (Feb 6, 2008)

Thanks Sltman for the videos & sharing the information. :thumbsup: ..RL


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Conversion*

Hi Slotcarman 12078:

Give this a try. Put the top plate on ( with no gears ) to the chassis. The put on the clamp. Then drill the holes, this will give you a parallel shaft between the top plate and the chassis. Also, if you have two dremels, place each gear on one dremel and use #428 Carbon Steel Brush in the other. Place each dremel at about a 45degree angle and polish the gears. Place the brush end on the tooth end - polish. BE CARFUL not to hit the gear to the brush shaft, it will dent and chip the teeth. If you polish the gears correctly and take off enough, you will not have to change the position of the rear hole. I would suggest try and bad gear first!!!!!!! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A TRUE AXLE!!!!!


Voxxer


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*Nice vid.. Thanks for taking the time!*

I have a JL/AW chassis that I did this to some time ago. Makes for a great running car. Much easier to drive than the standard 14 tooth version.

Scott


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I never would have thought of polishing the gears like that!!. I only have one dremel, so all I could do would be to lap them a bit. I did manage to make a dud chassis right after the video one. I had the dremel at too high a speed and it chewed into the top plate more than I wanted. Use caution if you try this, guys!! Better to have to go back and do a little more than do too much...  No takey backies if you go too far!!


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

slotcarman12078 said:


> I never would have thought of polishing the gears like that!!. I only have one dremel, so all I could do would be to lap them a bit. I did manage to make a dud chassis right after the video one. I had the dremel at too high a speed and it chewed into the top plate more than I wanted. Use caution if you try this, guys!! Better to have to go back and do a little more than do too much...  No takey backies if you go too far!!


Does the superglue trick work for gearplates like it does for axle holes?


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

hey slotcarman bravo! that was a very informative "hot to" after i do a small job this mornin and paint body ill be digin through some boxes to try this conversion!! this is just what i needed to keep me busy tonite.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Power tool license revoked!*



slotcarman12078 said:


> I never would have thought of polishing the gears like that!!. I only have one dremel, so all I could do would be to lap them a bit. I did manage to make a dud chassis right after the video one. I had the dremel at too high a speed and it chewed into the top plate more than I wanted. Use caution if you try this, guys!! Better to have to go back and do a little more than do too much...  No takey backies if you go too far!!


D'oh!

Crazy man! Instead of the rototiller....try the pin vise next time...giggle.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Thanks for the how-to joeLED...*

Very well done series Joe. You made it look easy. If I ever lay my hands on an AW chassis I'm gonna try this. Exactly what size drill bit do you use though? nd


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

1/16th drill bit. I haven't had much luck shaving sideways with a pin vise Bill. I got careless with the speed up to high. (I have a plug in model dremel, which has like 10 speeds) There is a helpful hint up there too that needs to be repeated. Drill both the top plate and the chassis base together. This will help the holes for the pinion shaft line up better. Oh, and also make sure you drill as close to perpendicular (90 degrees) to the chassis as possible!!


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

Hi:

I watched your videos again and noticed something that you can improve on. On the third video, you pushed on the rear gear. That would be to loose. I would suggest this. Find or buy some bb shoots ( pellits ). With a vise or tire tool and place the bb on one side and the gear close to the bb. Press. The will create a concave dimple and close up the hole.
This will stop the gear from being loose on the shaft and spinning. NOTE, make sure the gear and bb are flat. If not, the concave hole will be off and the shaft will no longer be at 90 degrees to the gear. With the JL/AW gears, use light pressure. To much and you will split the gear, I have done this.

Second, just like the rear holes, drill the arm shaft with the top plate on. This will also create a parallel shaft. Use a .062 drill bit.


Hope this helps.

www.voxxer.com

Voxxer


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

thanks for all the tips guys.my corvette gs is in need of this,even though the ansens i put on helped alot,it spins out too much with the 14 tooth pinion.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*One direction!*



slotcarman12078 said:


> 1/16th drill bit. I haven't had much luck shaving sideways with a pin vise Bill. I got careless with the speed up to high. (I have a plug in model dremel, which has like 10 speeds) There is a helpful hint up there too that needs to be repeated. Drill both the top plate and the chassis base together. This will help the holes for the pinion shaft line up better. Oh, and also make sure you drill as close to perpendicular (90 degrees) to the chassis as possible!!


Just push it straight through as though you were filing or hacksawing. If the bit is in good shape the flutes will take care of it for you. I guess I fergot to tell ya that part ...sorry ...my bad.


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

Sweet!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

hey gang i started this mod last nite.after putting power to the assembly i found that the driven gear migrates upward lessening contact with the crown gear. my question is . should i fill in the void on the shaft with some type of spacer? to stop the migration?also my gear pressing skills stink they seem to be a bit crookey. is there a process that makes the gears lay perfectly flat and true?think i,ll tear it down and start again.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Check your alignment of the pinion gear to the crown gear. You might need to snug the pinion up a little. Also, you might need to make sure your chassis pinion shaft hole is opened up enough. Tear it apart again, and put the pinion shaft (with the pinion gear on it in the chassis. If it is binding, the hole needs to be opened up a little more. If it's too tight, when the top plate is on, the shaft will walk up and raise the driven gear up with it.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

thanx scm your last sentence makes sence driving up is what i got . let me go play and i,ll postbback findings


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

hey slotcarman it,s commin to u if u want it i give uncle!!!!!!!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

just finished my conversion tonite . guess i had to put it down for a week and regroup.i installed a spacer between the 14 tooth drive gear and a brass tubing/ bushing in the chassis. it squared it up nice. now i have a good mesh. also used a plastic ideler gear seems to make it waaay smoother too.but the conversion is 1 to try.i enjoyed it and will try another 1 thanx for the inspireation slotcarman !!!


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