# kawasaki FB460V Governor Linkage Adjustment



## Bob DiGiacomo (Jan 15, 2009)

I got a mower that is running really fast. Something is wrong with the governor. The linkages were reversed by the previous owner and it did not run. By looking at another mower that I have I was able to get the linkages on correctly, but the engine is running really fast. It looks like the previous owner tried to adjust the governor (because the 10mm nut was slightly stripped), but it is set improperly. How would I adjust the governor to the factory setting? I know I have to loosen the 10mm nut on the governor arm and turn the arm clockwise, but how far should I rotate the governor shaft and which direction to meet the factory settings. Thanks for your help. Bob


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## duffer72 (Jul 23, 2011)

here is the service manual,check section 5 should give you all the info needed.

http://www3.kawpowr.com/enginesecure/ServiceManuals/FB460V.pdf


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## Bob DiGiacomo (Jan 15, 2009)

Turns out the block is cracked. So how many horsepower is a FB460V GS07? Model FB460VA16531. Also will a electric start FB460V from a john deere 160 bolt right on and work with the old pull starter? Will the crankshaft be the same size and length. Thanks Bob


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Depending on the spec number most are listed as 12hp engines, some were listed as 13hp. Most everything should be the same on both engines, with the exception of the crankshaft. They may or may not be the same, otherwise should bolt right up and you should be able to install all the recoil start components from one engine to the other.


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## Bob DiGiacomo (Jan 15, 2009)

30yr thanks for the help. I picked up the engine, and after I removed the flywheels from both engines the blocks were the same. I found the the service manual for the FB460V is incorrect because it states that the flywheel nut should be left handed threads. I had a heck of a time trying to get them off due to the fact that I was tightening them. I am planning on switching out the flywheels and the coils/ igniter and removing the electric start and just sticking with the standard pull start. So after removing everything, I started thinking about whether or not it would be difficult to make my walkbehind electric start?
Electric start would be nice, but I did not know if I could do it with the back up pull start? What do you think?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Bob DiGiacomo said:


> So after removing everything, I started thinking about whether or not it would be difficult to make my walkbehind electric start?
> Electric start would be nice, but I did not know if I could do it with the back up pull start? What do you think?


You should be able to have both electric and pull start on this engine. You would need to install the cup on the flywheel and the recoil starter, but it should all work on the engine with the electric start. Of course you will need to add a 12 volt battery to your mower, starter switch and possibly a starter solenoid, depending on the type of starter used on the engine. Some starters have a solenoid attached to the starter.


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## Bob DiGiacomo (Jan 15, 2009)

I decided to go with just pull start for now, but may go to electric start in the future. So I have the engine in and running. It runs well on full throttle and with the blades and drive going, but at low speed it surges and hunts. I accidentally read the tappet clearance wrong from the manual and ground way too much off the valve stems .040 instead of .004. Would this cause the surging? If not is it still important that I replace the valves? Or what else would cause the surging? Thanks for the help. Bob


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Bob DiGiacomo said:


> I decided to go with just pull start for now, but may go to electric start in the future. So I have the engine in and running. It runs well on full throttle and with the blades and drive going, but at low speed it surges and hunts. I accidentally read the tappet clearance wrong from the manual and ground way too much off the valve stems .040 instead of .004. Would this cause the surging? If not is it still important that I replace the valves? Or what else would cause the surging? Thanks for the help. Bob


It's possible, I would fix the valve issue first and if it still surges, look at the low speed circuit in the carburetor for a restriction.


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## myboy (Nov 30, 2011)

Thank you for sharing and good luck with the thread.


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## Bob DiGiacomo (Jan 15, 2009)

I got some new valves in and recleaned the idle circuit in the carburetor. The valves are working great but the carb is not. I cleaned and put on the carb from the other parts engine that I had in the garage and all is good. Only concern that I have is that the engine seems to get flooded if it takes too many pulls to start it. I noticed that the old owner put a rivet in the butterfly valve of the choke to really choke the engine, so I tried to make a slight adjustment on the choke to open it slightly. I don't know if it worked yet because I am waiting for the engine to cool down for a true cold start. Is this the proper remedy? Thanks again for all the help.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Bob DiGiacomo said:


> I got some new valves in and recleaned the idle circuit in the carburetor. The valves are working great but the carb is not. I cleaned and put on the carb from the other parts engine that I had in the garage and all is good. Only concern that I have is that the engine seems to get flooded if it takes too many pulls to start it. I noticed that the old owner put a rivet in the butterfly valve of the choke to really choke the engine, so I tried to make a slight adjustment on the choke to open it slightly. I don't know if it worked yet because I am waiting for the engine to cool down for a true cold start. Is this the proper remedy? Thanks again for all the help.


That should work, but I would just remove the rivet in the choke butterfly, or swap the one out of the other carburetor.


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