# O.T. - P.L. Jupiter 2 question.



## Scorpitat (Oct 7, 2004)

Anyone have an idea where I can get a reasonably priced rotating "fusion core" light for my Polar Lights Jupiter 2? I know that a few companies made them, but now alot are listed as "out of stock", or unavailable, and the ones that ARE around seem to sell for outrageous prices. I put quite a bit of time into the finish on the kit, like scratchbuilding my landing gear bays, and making gear legs out of tubing, etc., so I want to light it and make it complete.

Anyone know where they can be found for a "reasonable" price, or does anyone make some that they sell? I figured the great gang on this board could help....hope I'm right.

Thanks for any help ya can offer. just drop a line to: [email protected], and let me know.

Sincerely,
Scorp :wave:


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

The DF Hughy lights of yesteryear were reasonably priced but used yellow LED's. The ones available now use the more pricey white LEDs, but look ever so much cooler. I believe the ones you are looking at are made by voodoofx. These guys have them for less: Fiber optic products.

Consider the time and effort you're going to put in the thing before you write them off as too pricey.

If still too expensive, consider getting an LED chaser kit and cobbling it together yourself. A 10 LED kit  with sets of 3 LED's ganged together (you add the LEDs and figure out how to wire them) for 30 lights total should give you the effect your looking for, but if you buy white LED's instead of yellow you're going to be up close to the pre-made voodoo version and you still have to make it work!


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## Babaganoosh (Dec 16, 2004)

how is this "OT"?


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

ON TOPIC! 

Thanks Steve, for the link of the 10 LED kit.


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## lisfan (Feb 15, 1999)

dont start that OT thing again !!!!!!!!!!!lol:jest:


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## Babaganoosh (Dec 16, 2004)

Lloyd Collins said:


> ON TOPIC!



Duh! I didn't think of that. Gotta eat my Wheaties.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

those light kits are getting harder and harder to find.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Scorp, 

Our own Steve Iverson has what you're looking for on his CultTVMan site: http://www.culttvman.net/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=25&cat=Lost+In+Space


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## dr.robert (Feb 16, 2006)

I got my fusion core & dome light from monsters in motion some years back,But they mite have some left over stock. The owner is pretty cool & he mite be able to help locate these gems if he doesn't have any left :thumbsup:


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## MightyMax (Jan 21, 2000)

Okay here is what I bought. way back when both the DF Howard and other core were available someone came up with a cheap alternative. Sure I would like a hundred dollar 
sequencer but I don't have the budget.
The cheap route was to go to Michaels and find what is called "shirt lights" I don't know if these are avilable still, but for 5 bucks you get a string of mini lites that operate off a button cell battery pack. The lights fire off one after another so if you put them in your fusion core it would give the illusion of the spinning lights.

Cheers,
Max Bryant


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

MightyMax said:


> Okay here is what I bought. way back when both the DF Howard and other core were available someone came up with a cheap alternative. Sure I would like a hundred dollar
> sequencer but I don't have the budget.
> The cheap route was to go to Michaels and find what is called "shirt lights" I don't know if these are avilable still, but for 5 bucks you get a string of mini lites that operate off a button cell battery pack. The lights fire off one after another so if you put them in your fusion core it would give the illusion of the spinning lights.
> 
> ...


something like this ?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

MightyMax said:


> ...The cheap route was to go to Michaels and find what is called "shirt lights" I don't know if these are avilable still, but for 5 bucks you get a string of mini lites that operate off a button cell battery pack. The lights fire off one after another so if you put them in your fusion core it would give the illusion of the spinning lights.Cheers, Max Bryant


I'm not so sure about those shirt lights, Max. Here's why: in each pack, you get 10 LEDs that fire in pairs. So you'd need to buy four shirt light sets to get 32 fusion core lights. The sequence for the five pairs is one-on, four off. It would be quite a headache to try and arrange them so that the firing sequences would give the proper chase effect.

At the same time, you'd also have to figure out a way to mount those 32 LEDs inside the fusion core, plus accommodate the 64 leads to power them. And you'll also need to figure out where you're going to stow the four battery packs for the lights, and how you're going to turn them all on and off conveniently. Each battery pack takes four batteries; while the two LEDs I installed in my Bride of Frankenstein haven't drained the original four yet, I don't know how long the full load will take to drain them.

The shirt lights have any number of good modeling applications, but I'm just not convinced that the _Jupiter II_'s fusion core would be one of them. I think the best way, in the long run, is just to save up and get a preassembled unit. That's what I did.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

MightyMax said:


> The cheap route was to go to Michaels and find what is called "shirt lights" I don't know if these are avilable still, but for 5 bucks you get a string of mini lites that operate off a button cell battery pack. The lights fire off one after another so if you put them in your fusion core it would give the illusion of the spinning lights.
> 
> Cheers,
> Max Bryant


I can't find shirt lights, but there is an alternative. Lemax #54386 "36 Mini Light Set, Clear Color", $5 retail, uses two AA batteries, and also has a 3V jack for external power. The chaser has a thumbwheel speed control. These are small LEDs which will easily fit the PL J2 fusion core.

I bought the similar #54385 red and green set at a local store at Xmas, so I know they will do the job, but I haven't scored one of the clear sets, yet.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

T.R.,

You reminded me that I didn't mention the manufacturer of MightyMax's "shirt lights". They're made by Darian - a crafting manufacturer that makes all kinds of interesting stuff. If you've ever been in darn near _any _crafts store you'll see the name all over the place. Darian should be as familiar as Testors to anyone who has begun to build models out-of-the-box.

There's a photo of one of these shirt light kits in the current issue of the IPMS _Plastic Modeler's Journal._ The LEDs I've been talking about are yellow, but red and green Christmas sets are available year-round also.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

here is some info. from Ron Gross on building a circuit for the jupiter 2 Ron Gross's Electronic Circuit 

This circuit design was created by Ron Gross several years ago with design assistance by Bob Gardner and is presented here with Ron's kind permission.

This is just one way to light the Jupiter 2. 

PLEASE NOTE!

A certain degree of electrical assembly experience will be necessary to build this circuit! If you have never attempted this sort of thing before, I suggest you find someone who can assist you.

To locate these chips, I suggest you try Mouser Electronics.

Abe Duran writes:
Mouser part numbers are as follows:
74L154 is also: 526-NTE74154 and 599-SK74154
74L193 is also: 526-NTE74193, 599-SK74193, 511-40193, 511-40193BM, 526-NTE40193B, 599-NTE-40193.com, and 599-SK40193B

The L in the number stands for low power. If an IC has a letter in it you can usually omit the letter and use just the numbers. Some letters include H for high speed, C for cmos, S for Schottky, LS for low power schottky, etc. We would really not see a change in the way we are using the chips. It would make a difference in computers. The letters before the numbers can also be omitted. These are manufacturers ID's, such as LM 555 and NEC 555, etc. 

Steven Satak ([email protected]) writes, "These chips are easily acquired through just about any reputable electronics distributor (such as Mouser or Digi-Key), and even the Electronics Goldmine has them in abundance. Expect the 74193 to cost about $.75 and the 74154 about $2.50." 

Radio Shack offers several good books for beginning electronics. You many wish to read some of this material before doing this project.

Schimatic 




From Ron Gross:

In response to many questions about the forthcoming Polar Lights J2 model and the possibility of a lighting circuit, I thought I would post this message.

While the model will not come with any specific lighting features or references, the bottom "reactor core" (as I call it) is cast in clear plastic to allow for this possibility (other associated requirements would be to forego the lower level detailing and to cut a round hole in the bottom of the hull). Many of you have asked me about the lighting circuit which I used in my prototype and described in the article.

The circuit provides 16 discrete LED outputs, and permits paralleling of multiple devices on each. If fewer outputs are required, insure that terminals are selected equidistantly to provide a continuous rotation effect. Standard 20mA LED's require eight outputs and four simultaneously lighted devices on each to complete the full circular array of 32 LED's. Less standard 10mA LED's will permit a total of eight simultaneously lighted devices on each of only four outputs, which is true to the effect of the original studio miniature. The requirement to parallel multiple LED's for this application usually precludes the need for a dropping resistor between the common anode bank and +vcc.

The fact is that this circuit was originally designed all the way back in '82 for another modeler whom I consider to be my mentor, David Merriman. (David has worked on film projects with Greg Jein on occasion, and among his many accomplishments was to build the submarine miniatures for "Red October." He is quite simply, in my opinion, the best there is). Since I had a small supply of parts that dated all the way back to that time frame of Dave's early Jupiter 2 project, I simply used what I still had on hand. If anyone decides to try this circuit, be aware that all parts except the 74L193 and the 74L154 IC's are available from your local Radio Shack store. You can still find these IC's as well if you are diligent enough. 

--Ron Gross

Steven Satak ([email protected]) sent this description of the circuit shown:
"Ron Gross' schematic for lighting the power core of the original Jupiter 2... is based on a 555 timer sending a clock pulse to a 74193 4-bit Up/Down counter, which in turn feeds a four-bit "word" to a 74154 4 to 16 line Demultiplexer. This results in each of the 74154's outputs goes low in sequence. The 74154 can directly sink about 25mA per output, so you can drive LEDs directly (be sure to use a current-limiting resistor - one will do, as all the LEDs share a common line to the (+) side of the circuit)." 

This circuit is (C)1998 Ron Gross and may not be reproduced without his permission.


Discuss these and other models in the CultTVman Fantastic Modeling Forum

©1997-2006 Stephen J. Iverson. Other material copyright of original owner. No material (images or text) may be reproduced without permission of Stephen Iverson and original copyright owner. Additional copyright and legal information




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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

model maker said:


> This circuit design was created by Ron Gross several years ago with design assistance by Bob Gardner and is presented here with Ron's kind permission.


SCHEMATIC:


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## fjimi (Sep 29, 2004)

Looks like a keyboard to me Too bad it's Greek to me. I was orbited by the tshirt lights but swiftly brought back to earth by Mark. I guess I could use them for other apps.<sigh>


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## Scorpitat (Oct 7, 2004)

Thanks for the responses gang. I was enticed by the t-shirt lights thingy, but it sounds kinda lackluster. I just think paying an outrageous amout for a few twinkly lights is silly. ( Ducking the plastic bits hurled at him by fellow modelers on the board! ) :drunk: 

I meant to say, I think around 40 or 50 bucks for a fusion core setup seems reasonable, but the lowest I've ever found was around 100 smackers. Well, I guess the quest continues. <sigh> If anyone comes up with ideas, or brainstorms, please post em here. I do wanna get this done, eventually.

Thanks much!
Sincerely,
Scorp :wave:


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Scorp, ol' pal, 

Let's look at it in this light (pun intended): your aircraft-building counterparts in the IPMS, who are also prone to AMS (Advanced Modelers Syndrome), will think nothing of shelling out many times the purchase price of a model kit for aftermarket accessories - multimedia cockpit interiors and wheel wells, resin flaps and landing gear, vacuformed canopies, and decals _ad infinitum. _Closer to home, you can spend a like amount of money on "accurizing" stuff for darn near ANY Star Trek vehicle. I have myself shelled out the amount you mentioned for a yellow LED fusion core lighting kit, and more for a dome set. I'd spend a like amount for the sound chip kit, but they don't make 'em any more. Why? Why spend good money that could be used for far more useful things for a stinkin' hobby? Because, to put it simply, *they're so cool!!*

Now, I'm not made of money. I've had to sacrifice in order to get those lighting thingies. But compared to the effort of trying - and failing miserably - to cobble something together myself, they were worth the price. Kind of like trying to do your own plumbing, only without the black mold...

This is what you learn when you've been modeling for over forty years (and been married for 24 of them): anything worth having is worth suffering for.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Scorpitat said:


> Thanks for the responses gang. I was enticed by the t-shirt lights thingy, but it sounds kinda lackluster. I just think paying an outrageous amout for a few twinkly lights is silly. ( Ducking the plastic bits hurled at him by fellow modelers on the board! ) :drunk:
> 
> I meant to say, I think around 40 or 50 bucks for a fusion core setup seems reasonable, but the lowest I've ever found was around 100 smackers. Well, I guess the quest continues. <sigh> If anyone comes up with ideas, or brainstorms, please post em here. I do wanna get this done, eventually.
> 
> ...


Although I agree with Mark regarding sacrifice, yada, yada, yada, I also agree with you. That is, the Polar Lights J2 is so very unworthy of a single $100 accessory. At least, one that is for the exterior. 

I've done about all that can be done, with the kit hull parts, to improve the appearance of the exterior. The upper hull can be made OK, but PL fattened the lower hull, to squeeze in the lower deck. The lower hull simply must be replaced, to get a 12" model that even remotely resembles the Jupiter 2.

That feels much better. Thanks, for letting me share. Now, another idea, for the fusion core lights: use a motor-driven rotor, with six clear LEDs. Get the motor and gear from a 99-Cent store toy, or gadget, and the LEDs from a Xmas string. That solution will come in WAY under $50. And, that is essentially the way they did it, on the original hero prop.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> T.R.,
> 
> You reminded me that I didn't mention the manufacturer of MightyMax's "shirt lights". They're made by Darian - a crafting manufacturer that makes all kinds of interesting stuff. If you've ever been in darn near _any _crafts store you'll see the name all over the place. Darian should be as familiar as Testors to anyone who has begun to build models out-of-the-box.
> 
> There's a photo of one of these shirt light kits in the current issue of the IPMS _Plastic Modeler's Journal._ The LEDs I've been talking about are yellow, but red and green Christmas sets are available year-round also.


I tried 'Darian' in Michaels search box; no matches.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern[font=Book Antiqua said:


> ...you'll also need to figure out where you're going to stow the four battery packs for the lights, and how you're going to turn them all on and off conveniently. Each battery pack takes four batteries...[/font]


The light sets I've seen lately(ebeigh and elsewhere, under "LED string lights") use three batteries, and several sets can be powered by one battery pack. Also, some have 12 LEDs per string.

However, I still believe the best option is the Lemax set I mentioned before.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

toyroy said:


> I can't find shirt lights, but there is an alternative. Lemax #54386 "36 Mini Light Set, Clear Color", $5 retail, uses two AA batteries, and also has a 3V jack for external power. The chaser has a thumbwheel speed control. These are small LEDs which will easily fit the PL J2 fusion core.
> 
> I bought the similar #54385 red and green set at a local store at Xmas, so I know they will do the job, but I haven't scored one of the clear sets, yet.


OK, I emailed a vendor to ask about the Lemax clear set. If the shipping is reasonable, I'll get one, and report back. Now, I have to track down my PL fusion core...


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

toyroy said:


> ...Now, another idea, for the fusion core lights: use a motor-driven rotor, with six clear LEDs. Get the motor and gear from a 99-Cent store toy, or gadget, and the LEDs from a Xmas string. That solution will come in WAY under $50. And, that is essentially the way they did it, on the original hero prop.


T.R., the first fusion core lighting set that Lunar Models made for their 1/35 scale _Jupiter II _used a motor that spun a resin armature that had a red LED at one end and a green LED at the other. The LEDs were powered through the use of slip rings - washers that were wired to the positive and negative ends of the circuit. Wire brushes stayed in contact with the slip rings to keep the LEDs powered as the armature spun.

It was very difficult to get the motor centered in the bottom of the lower hull (no templates were provided, and the instructions were, to say the least, sparse), get the resin armature aligned so that it would spin *perfectly* level within the fusion core, and keep the wire brushes centered on the slip rings. Any little deviation would throw the whole thing off. When I saw the preassembled LED fusion core lighting unit, I fell down on my knees.

I'm not trying to sell these lighting sets. I'm merely trying to point out that they are worth the expense in terms of simplicity and reliability over anything an average modeler might try to cobble together. These things are manufactured by people who know what they're doing. When I considered the time and trouble it would have taken me to come up with something comparable, that _might _have worked, I decided that the price for the lighting sets was well worth the aggravation I didn't put myself through.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> I'm not trying to sell these lighting sets. I'm merely trying to point out that they are worth the expense in terms of simplicity and reliability over anything an average modeler might try to cobble together. These things are manufactured by people who know what they're doing. When I considered the time and trouble it would have taken me to come up with something comparable, that _might _have worked, I decided that the price for the lighting sets was well worth the aggravation I didn't put myself through.


I'm not arguing with your rationale at all. Spend any amount you like, on any model. 

I gather that some folks don't want to spend $100 just on the Polar Lights Jupiter 2 fusion core lighting.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

For the Polar lights J2, get ONE inexpensive servo. If you haven't played with RC stuff, find someone who has. Remove the "Stop" and the sensor, and just use the gearbox. make a round part smaller than the inside of the fusion core by about 1/4 inch. carve out SIX slots for standard Grain of Dust bulbs. on the back of the round part, glue two circles of brass, copper or whathave you for circular contacts to attach the wires from the lights. use replacement model railroad brushes for Athern motors and connect a 1.2 volt battery. If you hooked the lights up in parallel they should all light, and keep lit if one burns out. The servo is mounted to the lower level floor with the servo shaft over the center of the fusion core. the brushes also stick down to contact the metal cirular contacts. I did this on my first modified J2. A 30 buck servo is rugged and will be withyou long after the LED circuit has failed. you'll always be able to get the Grain of Dust bulbs because they are heavily used in model RR signals, headlights and such.

I might post pictures later.

The LED systems are ALL INCORRECT with eight instead of SIX lights in the core.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

toyroy said:


> I'm not arguing with your rationale at all. Spend any amount you like, on any model. I gather that some folks don't want to spend $100 just on the Polar Lights Jupiter 2 fusion core lighting.


T.R., "Spend any amount I like" on models? Hah! I wish. I did drop the extra dimes on the fusion core set because it was the older, cheaper one with the yellow LEDs, and because I *knew *that was no way I'd be able to come up with anything nearly as good, given my electronics skills (unless crying is a valid electronics skill).

Now, if you or anybody else DOES have such skills, or doesn't want to spend a c-note plus on a lighting set, then there's no reason to get the preassembled set. And while we're on the subject, a solid coating of white paint on the fusion core panels would create a great appearance for far le$$ than any lighting set-up.




Y3a said:


> A 30 buck servo is rugged and will be withyou long after the LED circuit has failed. you'll always be able to get the Grain of Dust bulbs because they are heavily used in model RR signals, headlights and such.


 That's the most doable alternative I've seen posted yet. I'm not sure what you meant by "The LED systems are ALL INCORRECT with eight instead of SIX lights in the core", as the set I have has all 32 LEDs, one for each little window. But yeah, I can see where a set of physically rotating incandescent lamps would be the most authentic way to recreated the original _Jupiter II _lighting system. It's just that, with the Polar Lights model, we're dealing with one fourth the space that the model makers at 20th Century-Fox had to play in were when they were lighting the four-foot miniature.

But as I said above, if you feel that you can handle the task of building your own fusion core lighting gizmo, then more power to you (pun intended). :thumbsup:


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Y3a said:


> For the Polar lights J2, get ONE inexpensive servo. If you haven't played with RC stuff, find someone who has. Remove the "Stop" and the sensor, and just use the gearbox. make a round part smaller than the inside of the fusion core by about 1/4 inch. carve out SIX slots for standard Grain of Dust bulbs. on the back of the round part, glue two circles of brass, copper or whathave you for circular contacts to attach the wires from the lights. use replacement model railroad brushes for Athern motors and connect a 1.2 volt battery. If you hooked the lights up in parallel they should all light, and keep lit if one burns out. The servo is mounted to the lower level floor with the servo shaft over the center of the fusion core. the brushes also stick down to contact the metal cirular contacts. I did this on my first modified J2. A 30 buck servo is rugged and will be withyou long after the LED circuit has failed. you'll always be able to get the Grain of Dust bulbs because they are heavily used in model RR signals, headlights and such.
> 
> I might post pictures later.
> 
> The LED systems are ALL INCORRECT with eight instead of SIX lights in the core.


Scorpitat, and all,

Listen up, here!  This is the voice of serious model building expertise, in all things Jupiter 2. He builds CRANES just to photograph his models.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Yikes! I've been standing on a folding step stool!


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> ...I'm not sure what you meant by "The LED systems are ALL INCORRECT with eight instead of SIX lights in the core", as the set I have has all 32 LEDs, one for each little window.


What he's saying is: if you stop the rotation of a chaser circuit, you will see eight lights. On the show prop, if you stop the rotation, you will count six lights.  

If you have a video or DVD of "The Derelict" episode, you can see that, by clicking through the frames of the Jupiter 2 in-flight close-up shots.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> ...with the Polar Lights model, we're dealing with one fourth the space that the model makers at 20th Century-Fox had to play in were when they were lighting the four-foot miniature...
> 
> Actually, it's more like 1/64 the space. Since it is a three-dimensional model, it's (1/4)x(1/4)x(1/4)= 1/64.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Y3a said:


> ...make a round part smaller than the inside of the fusion core by about 1/4 inch. carve out SIX slots for standard Grain of Dust bulbs. on the back of the round part, glue two circles of brass, copper or whathave you for circular contacts to attach the wires from the lights. use replacement model railroad brushes for Athern motors and connect a 1.2 volt battery. If you hooked the lights up in parallel they should all light, and keep lit if one burns out...


I'm going to try some variations on your proven design. 

1) Using 'white', or 'clear' LED's, inexpensively gotten from Xmas light sets. These should be brighter, yet cooler. And last longer, too. And, since there are 60 on the string, I have replacements to last several lifetimes! 

2) Using an insulated light disc shaft, and light current feed through the bearings.

3) Using a motor from a 99-Cent store item. And, either gearing from something like a pull-back toy, or pulleys or friction wheels, using commonly-obtainable O-rings. 

Even before this, I will see how the clear Lemax set works out. I should recieve mine, by next week. Cost so far: just under $10.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

toyroy said:


> What he's saying is: if you stop the rotation of a chaser circuit, you will see eight lights. On the show prop, if you stop the rotation, you will count six lights.


Thank you, T.R.! At last, us Irwin Allen guys have something to *really *obsess over, like them high-falutin' Star Trek nit-pickers. Oh, sure - we have issues like the second story being too big to fit in the lower hull, or where in the heck did the Space Pod come from...but those were always embarrassingly *macro *issues, y'know? But now it's the Trekkies' turn to scratch their heads and wonder where we got so much free time!

Okay, let's have at it: just _exactly _what shade of silver was the _Jupiter II_'s hull, anyway - ?:devil:


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> Thank you, T.R.! At last, us Irwin Allen guys have something to *really *obsess over, like them high-falutin' Star Trek nit-pickers. Oh, sure - we have issues like the second story being too big to fit in the lower hull, or where in the heck did the Space Pod come from...but those were always embarrassingly *macro *issues, y'know? But now it's the Trekkies' turn to scratch their heads and wonder where we got so much free time!...


You're welcome.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> Okay, let's have at it: just _exactly _what shade of silver was the _Jupiter II_'s hull, anyway - ?:devil:


I think it was kind of an aluminumy shade. But, as you say, given the importance of the subject, doesn't this question merit a thread of it's own?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

"Aluminumy"? Okay by me. I'd be happy to start a new thread, but I just ran out of potato chips and I haven't got enough energy to run to the kitchen for another bag _and_ begin thread. I guess that's where the Trekkies got me licked...


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I will try to do photos of the PL J2 that I made the first rotating lights for. I have multiple packs of 20 Grain of Dust bulbs. get ONE pack and you have 6 bulbs for the initial build, and 14 left for replacements. After 6 years, all the stuff still works on my first modified J2. it's just too small to do both the fusion core AND landing gear mechanics. 

for the 1 foot PL kit, use Testors Bright Silver, and then cover it in a clearcoat to keep fingerprints off. you can add a spinning "V" in the bubble too with a second motor gearbox from a model RR aftermarket kit gearbox from NWSL.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> ...I'd be happy to start a new thread, but I just ran out of potato chips and I haven't got enough energy to run to the kitchen for another bag _and_ begin thread. I guess that's where the Trekkies got me licked...


For a guy named McGovern, that last bit sounds awfully Nixonian to me. :dude:


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Y3a said:


> I will try to do photos of the PL J2 that I made the first rotating lights for...After 6 years, all the stuff still works on my first modified J2...


Thanks, I look forward to seeing these pics. And I think it says a lot, that your design has worked so well, for so long. :thumbsup:


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Y3a said:


> ...[the Polar Lights Jupiter 2 is] just too small to do both the fusion core AND landing gear mechanics.


You already know that I disagree on that point. My landing gear mechanics are different from those used on the hero prop, as I figure they must function with the model turned upside down, etc. And, they WILL take up much of the space below the main deck, so that the builder will need to choose between a functioning landing gear OR lower-level interior detail.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Y3a said:


> ...you can add a spinning "V" in the bubble too with a second motor gearbox from a model RR aftermarket kit gearbox from NWSL.


You, and your top-quality components! This reminds me of the millions we spent, developing a ball-point pen that can write in space. The Russians solution? Use a pencil. 

My point is, I think part of the fun of making models is coming up with new solutions. Also, setting one's own rules, as to what is kosher on one's models.


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

I recieved my Lemax 'clear' string today. The labeling is deceptive; they're actually yellow, and clear only when off. That was the first disappointment, another is that the wires between lights are too short. I think it may be necessary to do some rewiring.

On the positive side, though I haven't found my Polar Lights fusion core yet, I'm quite sure the LED's are an easy fit. I'll let you know more, as I get something put together.


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## abacero (Oct 24, 2005)

*Lights for the Jupiter 2*

Hi, people!!

As I told you in a previous posting, I found a guy who make a very reasonalbe light set for the PL Jupiter 2.

His name is Alan King, and can be reached at [email protected]

The cost me about $100 dlls., and the set has light for the Core, the upper dome and connections for more lights, operated by remote control!!! No switches anywere!

This is not advertisement, but I felt really satisfied with this guy. Contact him and ask about it. :thumbsup: 

Regards,

Abacero


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