# Filling Track Gaps



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

I know there's been some light discussion about this in a few other threads, but I don't recall seeing that one post yet that was "the answer". 

Greg Braun mentions in his site that he fills the 1/8" gaps between track pieces with spackle. Then, he paints the whole track. 

I was wondering what other methods have been tried by HT members. Please feel free to include methods for success as well as things that have been tried with little or no success. 

Thanks.


----------



## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

I have to say that this is something that I'm curious about, too. Let's bump this thread and see what happens.

-- Bill


----------



## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

I really like the idea of using some type of foam.

I had found this small roll of weatherstripping foam in my garage, and tried it. If it was 1/4" wide or less, I think it would work out real nice, but this roll was about 5/8" wide, and had to be trimmed.

If it was narrower, you could just stick it to the track on one side, and press the other track against it. I condenses to 1/6", and can expand to over 1/4", which should cover varying gaps.


----------



## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I've used black RTV caulking to fill in the gaps. It works and is a lot less bother than filling and painting.


----------



## Ligier Runner (Nov 29, 2004)

I used the vinyl compound that Braun suggested and it seemed to work well. The only thing I found with it is that it leaves a white "residue" or film that is challenging to completely remove. 

I painted it flat black to blend with the track and have been happy with the overall results. However, having said that, my track does not see anywhere near the action that others do or may once they start having some buddies over. Durability over time may be an issue.


----------



## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

Found this old thread on the same subject (sorry for the repetition)

Old Thread 

I was on McMaster-Carr this morning and found that they do sell some 1/4" wide foam. My concern about foam would be the same that others have voiced about some foam borders; depending on the type of foam, the foam can be grabby and flip cars -- not what you would want in the middle of your track.

However, I think it's safe to say that there appears to be no consensus at this time as to what gap-filling strategy is best...

-- Bill

PS: Long live 'spooge!'


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Thanks, Bill. I knew that thread was out there somewhere, but for some reason I was unable to locate it before starting this new one. Then of course, I later found it afterward.

I agree. There seems to be a number of ways to approach the problem. My concern is that it's a touchy area that could have a huge impact in undoing a lot of previous work if the chosen application doesn't work out for you.


----------



## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Since folks are mentioning untested ideas, here's mine. 

Hobby Lobby sells some moderately dense, non-grabby, flexible foam sheet under the name "Funky Foam;" its sheet thicknesses are 3mm (.118") which is close to 1/8 (.125"), and 2mm (.079"), the sheet size is 12x18" -- as well as 9"x12". It comes in black, grey, brown and other colors. It is very cheap (around a dollar for the big sheet, if I recall). It cuts easily with a sharp modeler's knife. Cut the 3 mm sheet into strips of track thickness and insert as you go. I figure you get well over 60 running feet in 18" segments for a buck. If you wind up with a section needing narrower or wider material, go to one or two 2 mm strips.

That's the theory anyway. I bought some test pieces some time ago, but got delayed in starting the testbed version of the next layout. I'll report when I check it out.

Other craft stores have the same stuff under names like Fun Foam or Craft Foam.

Ummm ... So why is that 1/8" gap designed into the Tomy track system, anyway????

-- D


----------



## Ligier Runner (Nov 29, 2004)

Dslot said:


> Ummm ... So why is that 1/8" gap designed into the Tomy track system, anyway????-- D


One word...

conspiracy


----------



## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

Ligier Runner said:


> One word...
> 
> conspiracy


That meshes well with the signature of another person on another slot-related message board:

Remember the lack of any credible evidence is proof the conspiracy is working!

-- Bill


----------



## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Dslot said:


> Ummm ... So why is that 1/8" gap designed into the Tomy track system, anyway????


'Praise their cars - don't question their track'  

Seriously though, you can eliminate the gap completly by not using any curves in your layout, and by only using 15" straights that are, well, straight.

Sorry - had to vent. I need (38) 15" straights for my current layout, and even though I own (65) of them, I need to go buy (10) more, to hopefully get (7) more that aren't manufactured with a curve to them.  

I like the Funky Foam idea. I'd be putting some paint on the foam anyway, so maybe that would prevent any possible grabbing. And if it failed completly, it doesn't sound like I am out much money or time.


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I am curious as to whether this gap exists between a Tomy 15" curve and the 18" curves we made. Does the gap exist if using a Tomy 18" curve? Since I don't use Tomy track, I have nothing to test with.

The Mattel track I'm using, for the most part, doesn't seem to have gaps that cannot be closed by pulling the track tight and securing it down. As I have often mentioned before, we found that Tyco and Mattel curves were actually different in size; Mattel being slightly larger. When we made the Tyco curves, we had to compromise in order to get a good fit to both types.

A good simple test is to create a complete circle of each size with the different curves and see if the circles fit inside one another.

I'm guessing that track manufactured by the big three is not held to any kind of tight specification. It's possible there are differences in the size of the mold, or in the shrinkage properties of the plastic used in different runs. Personally, I think the track we produced came out with a higher quality than the track we were complimenting. However, there is a price to pay for that.

Joe


----------



## twolff (May 11, 2007)

I'm using 4 of your 18" curves in my layout and the fit with a Tomy 15" is better than the Tomy stuff fits together. However, I don't see any gaps between the curves I consider big enough to consider filling. The gaps between the 15" "straight" peices is another story.


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

With regard to the Tomy track, it seems that the fit between the 12-15" curves isn't so bad as the fit with the 9-12" curves. The latter is downright horrible. And if you try to use a 9" 1/4 turn it gets even worse.


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

*The time for this work is approaching......*

Bump.

Was wondering if there were any new ideas out there. :wave: 

Thanks.


----------



## jstudrawa (Mar 20, 2008)

Curious if some form of caulking works? 

There's a myriad of kinds and applications they are for, so there SHOULD be one that works well with wood tables and plastic track, expands and contracts with the track sections and it would seem to be easily applied.

No experience with it, just brainstorming.


----------



## twolff (May 11, 2007)

The most promising I''ve read so far is the black fun foam mentioned earlier in this thread. Minor adjustemts could be made quite easily. A caulk would be elastic enough, but could also sag as the joint expands and bulge as it contracts. It would also be a real b#st#rd to remove.


----------



## stoney creek (May 14, 2007)

Hey guys ive done testing on my extra track to try and come up with something and ive found something i like. I got some 3M double sided sticky tape from work it's black and has a red tape on one side, i cut it the width of the track to go in between to fill the gap. you can go all the way around and have nothing to fill, plus it's so strong i can all most not get it back apart. I will try and get a photo up later thanks.


----------



## sltCARsimpleton (Jun 7, 2008)

*good ol durhams..*

I've used durhams rock hard putty to repair small chips in my tyco track at the joints and to fill/ level screw holes made too big/deep , easily masked and painted with a rattle can or brush... and if you ever take your track up you can easily remove the putty with your fingers and a damp cloth.. ,I have not tried this in between track as tyco track does not have this problem .. just a thought.. anyone else try this? -simpleton


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

stoney creek said:


> Hey guys ive done testing on my extra track to try and come up with something and ive found something i like. I got some 3M double sided sticky tape from work it's black and has a red tape on one side, i cut it the width of the track to go in between to fill the gap. you can go all the way around and have nothing to fill, plus it's so strong i can all most not get it back apart. I will try and get a photo up later thanks.


stoney,
I'm curious how non-magnet cars react when they slide the rear tires out onto the foam. Do tell


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Tomy, Tomy, Tomy. When you say 'the big three' are you referring to three different Tomy factories? I'm disappointed with the quality, or lack of the term in the QC department, of my Tomy track. Sure it was purchased over several years from different countries, but that doesn't matter. *Finding a straight 15" is like trying to find a straight 2x4 in a Home Depot.* My thought was, "is this a 21" radius, or 24" ?" The slots were so misaligned I had to run a nail file through the slots to ease the guidpins, and so we wouldnt have to wear ear protection. I guess down here, it can be attributed to a load of AFXTomy sitting out at some truckstop in 150 degree heat while some guy has his lunch. Christmas shipments start in August, so that doesn't help. _But I can't help but think it is was more because some kid in China just turned ten, and this was his first real job._ 
The 18" doesn't fit very well around the 15" and all over the track, I have varied rail heights. I feel like I could do a better job routing my own track. I made a 4 lane oval, with all identical pieces all around it. The inside won't join on one end. It's almost a quarter inch too short. If you pull it in, the banking isn't smooth. The road coarse isn't much better. I had to flip the track over and duct tape it together to get it to lay decent enough for me to secure it down. The track border pretty much holds the turns together. It helps to turn the lettering on the back all the same direction. 
We had a 4 lane Tyco track years ago, we had to resoldier the joints before each race, but we never were concerned about the curves separating. *It's frustrating to know that I built better quality tracks on shag carpet when I was twelve.* I like the variations and the potential of the Tomy track, I just wished they paid as much attention to their track as they do their cars. Have you seen all the old Tjet tracks? Where are those molds?
That being said, how about rolling up some duct tape and stuffing it between the tracks?
Or, more seriously, laying a piece down between the rails of the edge of each track. I was thinking of trying that or hockey tape, seriously. You can get both tapes in black. If that works good, I might look for some grey for my banked track. It didn't turn out too bad. I'm not maxx track spoiled, but at these prices, quality would be nice.

Rich 

See my track at www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Sorry folks, I was in a bad mood last night! I still want quality.

Rich


----------



## pat4gis (Jan 12, 2008)

*Track Filling -*

I saved this post a while ago, sorry I can't remember who posted it, didnt save that part, but it sounds like he knows his stuff. I havent tried this method, I did use the vinyl spackle, and it takes some work to smooth it, (sanding), and you have to paint.
---------------------------------------------------
"When I was doing mine, I was also filling in between pieces of track
because of four lanes. I checked with auto painter extraordinaire, Kraz, and
this is the info I got. It was great advice. I was able to get the items at
a local auto painting supply store:

"The final finishing putty is called "Kombi" and is made by
Akzo-Nobel, who makes Sikkens auto paint. That is only good for surface
pinholes, gouges, and deep scratches. For larger areas, use Evercoat
brand polyester putty. That is the best combination I have used. First
use
the Evercoat, sand with 180 grit (or 80, then 180 if too uneven), then
skim Kombi over it using a razor blade, and finish with 320 and 400 (if
the
320 is too rough). "


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Sorry folks, I was in a bad mood last night! I still want quality.
> 
> Rich



No apology necessary, Rich. I know your frustration. I just got my track mounting completed over the weekend. Getting the final connections to line up was a bear and maintaining consistency in the spacing of the gaps was near impossible. I have tons of filing and tweaking to do. :freak:

And yes, the legend as to the existence of a true 15" "straight" section is rivaled only by the legends of UFOs, Saskwatch and the Loch Ness monster. I will never build another layout from sectional track.


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey Rudy,
You had any progress ironing out your track?


----------



## Gary#8 (Dec 14, 2004)

I built a road course out of a Tomy International set and an old Tyco set with LifeLike adapters. I only built a two lane that has a 12" banked turn at one end. My track would start to come apart at the joints when racing fast magnet cars after about 30 laps. Tomy now sells track clips for the new track that are like the ones for the old Aurora lock and jointer. I bought a 100 pack and all I can say is they work GREAT! Also my track is not nailed down, It "floats" on the table so heat and cold are not a warpage/buckle issue. Here's a picture of my track. Clips can be ordered at www.afxracing.com.


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Hey Rich. 
Haven't gotten to spend much time on it since the last update. I've done some work on it but still have much more filling, sanding and painting to be completed yet. I'm using vinyl spackle. I anticipate spending a good bit more time on it during this weekend's mini-staycation starting this afternoon.


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey Rudi,
How's your track going? Any pics?

Rich

www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi there Rich......

Yes, as a matter of fact, I have all the gaps filled and painted. I've moved on to scratch building track barriers. I'm using Evergreen strip styrene parts 252 and 363 for the job. The finished product kind of simulates concrete barriers. Not the original look I was intending at the start, but it works.....and looks half decent anyway. 

No pics yet, but I'll be sure to get working on that. Thanks for asking :wave:


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Rich, 

Here is a photo I snapped that highlights a number of things to do with my track project. For starters, note the area between track sections filled with spackle, sanded and painted. 

The photo also shows the track borders/extensions brought about by the addition of HO cork road bed sprayed black around the outside and inside edges of the track. 

Last, the faux "concrete" barriers scratch built from strip styrene. The ads on the barriers were done with my pc, printed onto Avery clear return address labels and cut to size. 

When I get all of the crap off my table (tools and junk), I'll start a new thread that displays the whole track layout. In the meantime, sorry about the darkness of the photo. Turning off the flash was the best I could do to come up with a shot not totally blurred. The old 4 mega-pixel ain't what she used to be. :freak: except she does a good job of showing how lousy I've been at cleaning the tires on my cars


----------



## Jim Norton (Jun 29, 2007)

*4 lane clips*

Aurora used to offer little "u" shaped clips in their 4 lane AFX sets...At least they did in the early seventies. I have 2 which survived and these do a great job clipping track together closing gaps.

Does anybody know a source or recalls the little clips?

All our 4 lane racing is setup/take down. We set up on a well vacumed carpet. This allows us to use the smallest paper clips Office Depot sells (the little black clasps with the silver wires) to attach tracks together and close the gaps. 

Works very well due to the fact that the thickness of the clip once clipped to the underside of the track (1/8" or so) sinks down in the carpet. This would not work on a hard surface.

Jim Norton
Huntsville, Alabama


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Jim Norton said:


> Works very well due to the fact that the thickness of the clip once clipped to the underside of the track (1/8" or so) sinks down in the carpet. This would not work on a hard surface.


Putting notches in the hard surface for them to sink into would probably do the trick. Where there's a will, there's a way.


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey Rudy, any pics of the whole layout.

Rich


----------



## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Hey Rudy, any pics of the whole layout.
> 
> Rich


Rich, I posted pics of the layout in a new thread I started......check out Flying "A" Raceway. 

Hope you're having a grand time in Brasil


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey Rudy,
I found something great to fill track gaps. Modeling clay.
Check out the cork board in between the tracks.


























It's cheap, not permanent, durable, easy to work with, and has tons of possibilities. :thumbsup:

Rich
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars


----------



## bearsox (Apr 22, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Hey Rudy,
> I found something great to fill track gaps. Modeling clay.
> Check out the cork board in between the tracks.
> 
> ...


*Hey Rich ,
good idea ... i like it ! A friend of mine used spot putty and 3m glazing putty 1st time he tried to fill and it worked well but then you also had to paint it. Looked good but alot of work just the same . His was permanent but i like this temp stuff as it allows some more flexible options.

Bear :wave:*


----------



## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

I did everything you guys did on my tomy layout.Track clips,filling gaps with spackle,removeing tabs,the whole 9 yards.I am a retired 1/24 racer and was never happy with the track (although everybody else seemed to like it) I never could get used to the click clack.I eventually bought a TKO routed track and love it I wish I would have bought it before I did all that work on my tomy just to tear it up.I solld a bunch of crap on ebay and paid for the track.What I am saying is if there is a chance of you buying a routed track buy it before you put alot of work and time in a tomy track.Just my 2 cents,been there done that!


----------



## wheelszk (Jul 8, 2006)

brownie374 said:


> I did everything you guys did on my tomy layout.Track clips,filling gaps with spackle,removeing tabs,the whole 9 yards.I am a retired 1/24 racer and was never happy with the track (although everybody else seemed to like it) I never could get used to the click clack.I eventually bought a TKO routed track and love it I wish I would have bought it before I did all that work on my tomy just to tear it up.I solld a bunch of crap on ebay and paid for the track.What I am saying is if there is a chance of you buying a routed track buy it before you put alot of work and time in a tomy track.Just my 2 cents,been there done that!




Finally someone making sense. I'm on my 2nd MaxTrax. Now looking at a TKO myself, I have raced on them and they are great. More bang for your buck. :thumbsup:


----------



## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Yeah, TKO has a great system and has quickly established itself in this hobby based on the quality of their product. Definitely top shelf material. 

But that's neither the beginning, nor the end of the story...

Regardless of what's available on the market for those willing to pony up the cash, there will always be a place for the do-it-yourself enthusiasts, myself included, who want to start with plastic set track and invest the time and sweat equity into getting the most out of what they can from the most basic of what the HO slot car hobby is all about. Obviously, it sometimes comes down to the acquisition costs, but sometimes it also comes down to a love of the journey and process of putting your own time and effort into the hobby to achieve what you want at a price you are willing to pay. 

Some of us Clickity-Clackers could afford to have a custom furniture quality track table made from exotic hardwoods by a professional carpenter, a custom routed track crafted by one of the master track builders, a whole fleet of ready to race cars built, tested, and tuned by one of the top race car builders for every class we want to run, a collection of custom airbrushed bodies, fancy hardwood pit cases, a couple grand worth of controllers, and a staggering inventory of spare parts. If that's your whole aim in the hobby, to have the best there is, then party on brother. That's one way, but it's not the only way, and not the only sensible way to enjoy the hobby. 

Heck, the whole notion of hobbies makes little sense. A sensible person would be squirreling away their discretionary income in sensible investments and spending their free time engaged in some other income generating activity. Sense and sensibility has nothing to do with it. It really comes down to deciding how you want to invest in the indulgences and distractions that the hobby provides - for you. 

For some folks, it's all about the "doing it" part. That's sometimes where the greatest reward resides. Building your own track, tweaking and tuning it, building your own table, building your own cars, painting your own bodies, stuffing all your parts and tools in a $30 plastic tackle box, getting out and mingling with the guys at the track for some informal racing. For other folks it all about the "having it" part. Owning the premier products, always being competitive in the big race, having a two hour track out of the shipping crate to being race ready setup. For most of us, there's a sweet spot where the combination of the "doing it" and "having it" pieces need to fall into place for the hobby to be rewarding. Starting with plastic set track certainly enforces the "doing it" model, as does starting with a slab of MDF and a router, and I believe this is a very important part of the hobby for many of us. 

As much as I appreciate the aesthetics and performance of a turnkey track system, as a hobbyist and racing enthusiast, I believe the roots of HO racing are still in the clickity-clack of plastic track. The day that plastic track is no longer an option will be the day that HO slot car hobby loses touch with its past, and because there will be no entry level starting point for attracting new slot car enthusiasts, it will also lose touch with its future. Any notion of sensibility, or lack thereof, will be a moot point since that will be the beginning of the end of the story. Hopefully, both, or should I say, the many track options that make sense for the wide variety of enthusiasts who play in the hobby at many different levels will continue to be available for a very long time.


----------



## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Randy,
I am having a race the 27th you should come out.


----------



## LeeRoy98 (Jul 8, 2005)

AfxToo said:


> The day that plastic track is no longer an option will be the day that HO slot car hobby loses touch with its past


Well said!

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com


----------



## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

EZEE Boys where did I say to quit makeing plastic track?


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

AfxToo said:


> Heck, the whole notion of hobbies makes little sense. A sensible person would be squirreling away their discretionary income in sensible investments and spending their free time engaged in some other income generating activity. Sense and sensibility has nothing to do with it. It really comes down to deciding how you want to invest in the indulgences and distractions that the hobby provides - for you.


 It seems to me the American way of life has somehow devolved into the notion that the acquisition of wealth is the be all and end all of existance. The last thing I want to do is spend my free time trying to make more money.

Some people live to work, others work to live. For myself, I simply work to afford myself the means to enjoy my free time. When I was forced from my job a few years back, guys asked what I was going to do. Although I had no plans, I could at least say that my last day on Earth was not spent working for company ABC.

Hobbies can be expensive or not. Once you've garnered all the cars you'll ever need (not WANT, but need) and built your track, there could be no real cost to this hobby. You can run cars in your basement or with a buddy for the cost of the electricity used.

There is only one thing the rich man and the poor man have in common; they both have a limited amount of time to spend on this planet. I do not plan to waste the time I have trying to accumulate as much money as possible. Give me enough to live comfortably, then give me my free time to spend doing the things I love and with the people I like.

Joe


----------



## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Joe, I completely echo your sentiments. 

It's so easy to get caught up in the acquisition of "things." Heck, the prevailing commercial culture and societal pressure in most developed parts of the world is to attain more, more, more and bigger, bigger, bigger. I recall a realtor scoffing at me "It's gonna be a tough sell because it's so small..." house I was trying to sell a few years ago. It was 2300 square feet with a tall unfinished basement. Having grown up with a family of six in a 800 sqft apartment I was a bit taken aback by the sentiment. But that's just a reflection of the expectations that have been cast upon us, and also highlights one of the fundamental reasons why we are where we are today in the economy.

For me, one "cure" to this way of thinking is HO slot cars. These little buggers are the remedy for the bigger-is-better way of thinking. It's hard to be pretentious or be in a position to flaunt one's material acquisitions when you are running a bunch of tiny little cars around a plastic snap together track. If, or when, your yuppified neighbors find out what you're doing in your basement in the wee hours of the morn, they may think that you are one seriously warped dude that hasn't figured out how to grow up and properly join in on the rat race. Here's a little insider info on the whole rat race thing ... the winner is a rat.

But then again sometimes you'll have the occasion to have one of those neighbors over, maybe when they are at wits end and you're helping them unravel some gnarly computer issue so they can get some paperwork submitted for their kids college application, the veins bulging in their forehead, heart pounding, stress flaring, and as you're talking them down from the dilemma and they are sitting there in the slot cave and see what you've created, track, scenery, table, all with your own hands, it suddenly hits them and they calmly let it out ... "Hey, I get it. I totally understand why you enjoy this." 

They're somewhat calmer now, but I'm already there. 

_"Go small, or go home."_ - HO Dude


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I'm okay with just the slot cars I need. Three of each. One to run, one to keep in the package, 
and one to sell on the bay if the collector's price goes crazy.
That's all, just three of each.

Rich - warehouse supervisor for North Texas Slot Car Acquisitions & Investments.


----------



## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Certainly many good points of view. For track builders/owners who can devote permanent space, some enjoy the challenge of store bought plastic track & others do not. Not everyone has the time or patience. I put a lot of time & $$ into my Tomy 6 lane layout. Visiting racers complimented the configuration & smoothness, but I wasn't satisfied. I felt my expectation of
the layout surpassed the intent of the original product.


----------



## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

For a permanent layout try grinding up a 9 inch curve and put it in a glass jar with testers cement. You end up with a black goo that matches the track and basically welds the track pieces together.


Roger Corrie


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

vaBcHRog said:


> For a permanent layout try grinding up a 9 inch curve and put it in a glass jar with testers cement. You end up with a black goo that matches the track and basically welds the track pieces together.


 Imagine suggesting the destruction of a 9" curve!!!!!

My biggest complaint with plastic track is the slot; specifically where the slots meet. If I can find a way to smooth that transition, I'd be quite happy with plastic track for non-magnet or low magnet cars.

Joe


----------



## Ligier Runner (Nov 29, 2004)

Grandcheapskate said:


> If I can find a way to smooth that transition, I'd be quite happy with plastic track for non-magnet or low magnet cars.


I had a problem with one particular joint in a curved portion. The exit portion of the slot was such that cars would catch it and either bounce through the turn or simply hit it and be thrown. 

I dribbled Gorilla glue right down into the slot and joint right at that point. I did this 3 or 4 times over the course of a week to make sure every nook and cranny was filled because Gorilla glue expands as it dries. I then took an x-acto knife and some sandpaper to it to smooth it to racing form. So far, it's worked really well with both magnet cars and simple mag-tracs. Durability over time is a question yet to be answered but so far it's worked well. :thumbsup:


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Ligier Runner said:


> I had a problem with one particular joint in a curved portion. The exit portion of the slot was such that cars would catch it and either bounce through the turn or simply hit it and be thrown.
> 
> I dribbled Gorilla glue right down into the slot and joint right at that point. I did this 3 or 4 times over the course of a week to make sure every nook and cranny was filled because Gorilla glue expands as it dries. I then took an x-acto knife and some sandpaper to it to smooth it to racing form. So far, it's worked really well with both magnet cars and simple mag-tracs. Durability over time is a question yet to be answered but so far it's worked well. :thumbsup:


 I want to do something that would be quick to administer, not glue pieces together and still be good if I decide to change the layout. Haven't figured that one out yet.

But here are three other threads I started that deal with this problem on Mattel track...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=204516

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=210466

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=205827

Thanks...Joe


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

How about wax?


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> How about wax?


 Wouldn't that require heating it into a liquid, then waiting for it to cool into a paste and then quickly applying it? I'm also thinking the guide pin would chip away at it fairly quickly.

I bought some acetone to mix in with plastic wood to make the plastic wood less thick and maybe easier to apply. I haven't yet had the time to sit down and try it.

Joe


----------



## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

*Contest?*

Okay, I propose the *Fill Joe's Flares* contest. Joe will send the entry with the best practical method of filling the flares in Tyco's slot-joints *four of his pieces of 6"R Tyco-style track*. (Wow. That just happens to be what I need.) Entries to be judged on effectiveness, durability, and ease and speed of application. 

Here's mine:

Remove any oil from the slot with a Q-tip and lighter fluid.

Wrap a rectangle of clear polyethylene cut from a zip-lock sandwich bag around several playing cards, business cards, or similar, until the width of the package fills the slot tightly on each side of the slot's flare. (You might need to cut a piece of typing paper and use it if the package is loose, but won't take another card.) Make sure the package bottoms out on the slot, and the bag-plastic is pulled tight.

Mix your favorite glop. Maybe JB weld epoxy (already black), maybe goop from track pieces in cement, whatever - a few tests will show what is best and easiest.

Using a small trowel-shaped painting knife from the Art Store (a couple of bucks) or similar tool, press the putty down into the flare on either side of the card package. Scrape any excess off the top of the track. 

Let the glop set _completely_, then pull out the cards and peel off the plastic.

The new slot surface should be very slick since it was cast against the poly plastic, but if necessary, smooth the epoxy with fine sandpaper backed with anything flexible and thin. Vacuum up the dust.








I've done a preliminary test with lightweight spackling putty and two Tyco curves. Application is fast and easy, but the water-based putty didn't hold well on the plastic. Maybe because I didn't degrease the slot, maybe because I didn't let it set up long enough, maybe because it's just not strong enough stuff. I'll bet JB Weld would do just fine.

Once you figure the right width for the card packets, you can easily set up twenty or thirty joints, then come along and quickly fill them.

If it works, Joe, PM me and I'll tell you where to mail the 6" curves.

-- D


----------



## Ligier Runner (Nov 29, 2004)

Nicely done and cool pictures. I like books with pictures.


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Dslot said:


> Okay, I propose the *Fill Joe's Flares* contest...
> 
> If it works, Joe, PM me and I'll tell you where to mail the 6" curves.
> 
> -- D


 Great picture of what needs to be done.

Since winter is approaching, I'll be spending more time inside and plan to get back to tuning the plastic track.

I've thought that there are three basic ways to go about fixing the flare problem.

The first would be to design a guide pin which is not affected (or much less so) by the flare, thereby requiring no fixing of the track. This would probably mean a blade style guide which pivots (ala Aurora AFX) made from plastic for less noise. The front of the blade would need to be rounded so it would deflect more easily off any slot imperfections, the rear of the blade would be wider than the front. A longer blade with a wider rear might very well keep the front of the blade more centered in the slot and thereby reduce or eliminate the effects of the flare.

The second is to completely fill the slot at the flare and then find some quick easy way to recut the slot. Doing this on straights isn't too hard; I've experimented with plastic wood and then cutting the slot with a hacksaw blade; the results weren't too bad. Curves are another matter. Using a Dremel doesn't seem to be a good idea as the plastic wood gunks up the grinding/cuttting stone.

The third method is exactly as you describe. I have wanted to find something that could go into the slot but upon which the filler would not adhere. You say a polyethylene bag will do the trick, so I've got to try that with the plastic wood.

There actually is a fourth and fifth method I've considered, but I don't think either is feasable. One would be to drill a hole (larger than the slot, maybe a little larger than 1/8") right at the joint in both slots; either half a hole on each of two adjacent pieces or a complete hole on each piece. Then have an insert with a slot in it which goes right into the hole. This should provide a very smooth transition. Since the hole you drilled is round, a dowel of the correct size could be used to fill the hole. Just cut off pieces the same height as the track and put a slot in them. If you could do this, you would only have to do it once for each piece and then you could change your layout anytime you wanted with no additional work required.

The other is to insert thin plastic stripes into each wall of the slot. This may be hard to explain, but I'll try. The best way to get a smooth transition in the slot from one piece to another is to have the slot from the sending piece be narrower than the slot in the receiving piece. If this were the case, you would never have to worry about the guide pin hitting the slot at the joint. If plastic track was designed so that the slot from one piece would slip inside the slot of the next piece, plastic track would be 100% better; but they are not designed that way. So, if you could put plastic strips into the wall of the slot so that they extended into the slot of the next piece, there would never be an issue with slot joints. Not only would this eliminate the flare or mismatched slot joints, it would span the track gaps so a guide pin would never get caught in that opening. The plastic strips would need be embedded in the slot wall of the sending piece so that the guide pin cannot catch on the plastic strip where it begins. The other end of the plastic strip, which is inside the slot of the receiving piece could either be allowed to "float" (the guide pin would easily seperate the two plastic strips as it passes through) or have enough spring tension where they would press themselves against the slot wall.

This last method, while maybe the best solution, would mean the track is only usable in one direction. If you wanted to run in the opposite direction, you'd have to swap all the plastic strips around. 

It's enough to keep me busy this winter.

Joe


----------



## idesputwri (Oct 2, 2009)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I'm okay with just the slot cars I need. Three of each. One to run, one to keep in the package,
> and one to sell on the bay if the collector's price goes crazy.
> That's all, just three of each.
> 
> Rich - warehouse supervisor for North Texas Slot Car Acquisitions & Investments.


Thanks for this code; I think the Farseer engine is great, but I just couldn't find a simple working example with the Beta 2 version of Silverlight. This is exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Does anyone know of a contact or link to TKO routed racetracks for info? Thanks.


----------



## wheelszk (Jul 8, 2006)

Here you go Dom, www.cnccustomcutting.com Tod is the owner :thumbsup:
Bill


----------



## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Thanks Bill!! :thumbsup: TKO seems to have a great track product & a very
informative site.


----------



## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Go with the 10 deg banked turns VERY COOL


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

This was always a great thread...


----------



## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Bill Halls, Goop, cut up sacrificial track pieces into jar of Testers liquid cement, let it sit overnight, stir and add more plastic track if needed to get to thick paint consistency, apply to areas needed. This stuff will bond to the parent track, sand easily, and will look just like the track when your done, and its going to last. 

It does take some time to dry, when I built the 4 lane intersection for the figure 8 track I always let the stuff dry for at least 8 hours then sand lightly to see what it looked like, there were times when I laid it on heavy that I had to let it dry once again after sanding. 

Very happy with the results, I mostly brushed it on, but I even thinned some enough to spray with a cheap air brush. See for yourself the results are very good with this stuff as filler, Very cheap too. 










Boosted


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Pete, i think you blew everyone away with your intersection...


----------

