# Tools or tricks for tight spaces?



## Vivid-Dawn (Jun 4, 2015)

I'm new here, so I'm not sure if this goes here or in the 4-cycle forum?

I'm working on a Craftsman mower (22" power gear drive mulcher - model # 917.377180). I took off the casing, and now want to get the carburetor off. Problem is, the bolts are in such a tight space... none of my wrenches or ratchets will fit in there! I tried needle nose pliers, but they're not really good at gripping the bolts (either that, or my dinky hands just aren't strong enough to grip properly?)

Any ideas of how to wrangle something in there and get them loose? Also, they're in there pretty tight...these ones are nice and shiny - most of the other bolts and screws I've gotten off this thing were totally rusted solid!

And yes, I did read the instruction manual. All it says about fixing/cleaning the carburetor is "take your mower to an authorized service center for repair" Oiy...

I have a picture, but apparently I can't post links until I'm at 5+ posts. bleh!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

It not too hard to remove the carburetor from the engine. The easiest way is to remove it with the intake manifold. It may be easier to remove the muffler bolts and take the muffler off first, then remove the two bolts holding on the intake manifold and bring the carburetor with it. That's the way I do it on these engines, and it takes me less then 5 minutes. I seldom remove the carburetor from the intake manifold as there is no real reason to. If you want to, though it's much easier to do this once the intake/carburetor is away from the engine block.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Always take a picture or draw a diagram of the throttle linkage before you remove the carb so you will be able to put it back together, sounds simple however everyone forgets how the linkage works. Have a good one. Geo


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

Since you haven't said what the engine was doing I will guess it won't start which is usually the nut(main jet) that holds the carb bowl on is dirty and it is usually the tiny hole near the top that is the problem, I clean it with the wire from a twist tie, check the pic below. Have a good one. Geo


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

I agree with Geogrub.

I will often scratch a mark next to the hole the linkage goes in. This is just my way of keeping track. If a sketch or picture works for someone else, it is all good.

You may want to have a new intake gasket on hand because if it is old it may tear coming off.


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## Vivid-Dawn (Jun 4, 2015)

I finally got it off! It took forever, because once I -could- fit the wrench into the tight spot, then it only moved maybe 1/8 of an inch at a time... oiy!

And I always take pictures before moving, removing, unscrewing, etc. anything. I have a horrible memory, and wouldn't be able to remember what went where after an hour of tinkering LOL

I am going to just clean the whole carburetor, because there's a lot of gunk on the choke plate too. Also had to buy a gasket seal, because when I took off the exhaust manifold, there wasn't one!

And yes, geogrubb, the guy said it just wouldn't start, and I could have it to learn on. Then once I get it working good and cleaned up (it's all grimey!), I'll sell it. Then there's an old Craftsman chainsaw waiting for me, too. And a neighbor says he has a weed wacker that doesn't work, and that's mine if/when I want it. I'm so excited to get into this work!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Vivid-Dawn said:


> I finally got it off! It took forever, because once I -could- fit the wrench into the tight spot, then it only moved maybe 1/8 of an inch at a time... oiy!


Here is a link to a pretty good video that illustrates what I was trying to describe as to removing the carburetor with the intake manifold still attached.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h2O4QsUZZo

Carburetor removal starts at 2:15 in the video and also covers the carburetor service.


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## Vivid-Dawn (Jun 4, 2015)

I left the linkage attached to the mower, rather than taking it with the carb... whoops?

So anyhoo, took the bowl off, and there was tons of rust flakes, the float ring is horribly coated in green powder junk, and ALL the holes in the carb are FULL of rust! Also, nearly had to use a flat screwdriver to pry the bowl off, it was stuck on so bad. Usually when I unscrew the bottom bolt, they fall right off (and sometimes spill gas... this one spilled rust dust!)

I will try to clean it up, but I'm wondering if I'll just end up having to buy a whole new carburetor with the condition this one is in.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

It's worth a try, since the nozzle is plastic you can probably get it cleaned up good enough for it to work. You may check around at the prices for a replacement. If you can find one for the right price, it will certainly save considerable amount of time.


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## mikel m14 (Jul 27, 2009)

According to sears, carb is part #640271. They start out at about $15 on ebay, here's one 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-CAR...840?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa4de0cb8


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

mikel m14 said:


> According to sears, carb is part #640271. They start out at about $15 on ebay, here's one
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-CARBURETOR-TECUMSEH-640350-640271-640303-ft-LV195EA-LV195XA-LEV120-carb-/251874118840?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa4de0cb8


Wow, that's a great price. For that price, I wouldn't even give it a second thought, just replace it.


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## Vivid-Dawn (Jun 4, 2015)

I probably will just put a new one in. (and yes, that's the right part number... they're about $20ish from all sorts of places)

But since this is only the second machine I've worked on, I'm still going to putter around with it, and get familiar. The snow blower I worked on last year didn't have an emulsion tube, and the primer button was separate too. The more I get to know different designs, the better/quicker I'll be at fixing them eventually


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