# Zvezda Star Destroyer-Work in Progress



## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Started on the Big Z Sunday. Quality, fit, and finish are top notch. The sides of the super structures are separate detail panels applied to the hull. The edges are beveled resulting in excellent fit. The side trenches assemble the same way. They are also keyed so you can't put them in the wrong place or position. For me, I'll be building the major sub assemblies then drilling and running fiber. I'll then assemble the sub assemblies.
My impression so far is excellent. I originally thought the Anigrand was better detailed, but with this being a plastic kit, the details are so much sharper. Given a choice between the two, I'd opt for the Zvezda.

Assembly starts with adding the detail panels to the lower super structures.


























Then on to the trenches.


































Comparison of the lower hull with the new lights/sound Revell snap together.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

What's the overall length of the kit? And if you don't mind me asking, where did you get it?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

That looks NICE. I think, to abuse current phrasing, the 'Microphone' has been dropped. Over to you, Bandai! What'cha gonna do, other than make it snap-fit?


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

The kit is 23.6 inches long or 60cm. 

LoL, I think Bandai are kicking themselves right now! I wonder how many SD's have been sold since the 15th?


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

RossW said:


> What's the overall length of the kit? And if you don't mind me asking, where did you get it?


I've seen them on ebay, there are several sellers that have them.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

robiwon2 - What size drill bit will you be using for drilling the windows?

Wouldn't LED tape also work for lighting it and be easier? It works for Star Trek ships.


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

I'd be curious to know how the fit is with this kit. Sci Fi kits generally have poor quality vis-a-vis ships (witness the engineering disaster that is the PL 1:350 refit). It would be interesting to see how a company that has a reputation for good quality ship kits does with Sci Fi.

I understand it is just under 2 feet long.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

The fit of the parts is great. So far, all the super structure edges are beveled so they butt up nice and tight at the corners. The pieces almost interlock with their neighbor part. The parts are all keyed (so far) so you can't put a trench piece or super structure piece in the wrong location. It just wont fit. After building a few domestic kits from Revell and Mobius, they can't touch the quality of the Zvezda.

Zvezda stated on their FB page, that depending on how well this kit sells, would determine if they do any other SW kits. If this is any indication of the quality of their SW kits, then they can make all the SW kits they want!

Edit- Crowe, because of the thickness of the double wall construction, I doubt LED tape would work that well. You would have to be staring down each drilled window to see the light. It would be too far back. But, someone may give it a try.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

What size drill bit will you be using for drilling the windows?


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Let me go look at the number on the tube. Be back soon.


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## TheKitBase (Jul 23, 2016)

I need this kit, wicked!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

For .5mm you want a number 76 drill bit which is .02 inches, which itself equals .503mm. Or a number 75 drill bit which is just slightly bigger offering a bit more wiggle room. You can get a 10 pack on Amazon for $5.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Got all the trench pieces installed. There are some "bare" spots that will need some greeblies added to them. Again, love the way this kit is going together. I need to order .5mm fiber optic this week. I'll start on the other super structure assemblies today and then start drilling holes. Engines will need to be drilled out as well. Here are some new pics and where she sits now.

Port side trench detail.

























The inside edges of the starboard side trench. You'll have to drill thru both to run fiber.









Bare spots needing details.

















And the upper and lower hulls resting together.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I'll be ordering one of these closer to completion. Maybe mount it with the Big Z chasing her down.

1:2700 Rebel Blockade Runner Zvezda Star Destroyer (BU2FD7RUZ) by sapguy


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

robiwon2 said:


> The fit of the parts is great. So far, all the super structure edges are beveled so they butt up nice and tight at the corners. The pieces almost interlock with their neighbor part. The parts are all keyed (so far) so you can't put a trench piece or super structure piece in the wrong location. It just wont fit. After building a few domestic kits from Revell and Mobius, they can't touch the quality of the Zvezda.


That's what I would have expected from them. E.g., 

M o d e l W a r s h i p s . c o m - Gallery
http://www.steelnavy.com/ZvezdaDreadnought.htm

I can't imagine Zvezda dividing the sides of the saucer into 8 sections that don't match up or creating a 4 section engineering hull. From your pictures, the detail looks much crisper than you tend to see on sci-fi kits.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I have built mainly Bandai kits last year, churning out a half dozen or so SW kits, an Aoshima kit, a few domestic kits, as well as a very large 3 foot resin kit. The domestic kits suck in quality, fit and finish compared to everything else. The Zvezda kit is on par with the best quality kits I built last year.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Got a lot done on the kit this weekend. I cut out the back of the spine and built a full garbage chute complete with space junk and a Slave 1. I also drilled out all the windows for the fiber optics. Started mods to the engines as well for lighting. Very productive weekend!


























Space junk the Slave 1 will sit with.









Lots and lots of holes...









Looking pretty jimongous compared to the Revell snapper!

















Engine lighting test...


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Boy, it really is the kit I wanted as a 14-year old back in 1980! I still remember the crushing disappointment I felt when I saw a friend had built the AMT version (and painted it a waaay too dark gray -- with a brush). You're doing a great job, Rob!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

LOL, When I got that kit I told my mom and dad I was sick and stayed home from school. As soon as they both left for work I built that sucker!


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

robiwon2 said:


> LOL, When I got that kit I told my mom and dad I was sick and stayed home from school. As soon as they both left for work I built that sucker!


I cannot believe how fast you are able to build your kits and getting them fantastically finished the way you do.

It takes me literally MONTHS to finish a build and get it painted and weathered.

Now that I am attempting lighting, it's adding more time.

But, I am a stickler for perfection being a graphic artist, and I have to get into the mood to tackle issues that I literally have to get exactly right, such as adding detail greeblies to an area, or modular areas that I try to get as completed, painted and weathered as best I can before assembly. Just doing that garbage chute will take me a week or better with my blades and sheet styrene. I would probably have spent two or more weeks making 10-12 attempts at getting it right before settling on the addition. Your WIP pics I think will help shave that in half for me if and when I can order one of these kits in a month or so.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I built that over the weekend! The Slave 1 is now painted and weathered too.


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Looks like you're getting along nicely.

So how does the critical joint of the front and aft hull halves look? I'd hate to putty that area.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

The garbage chute looks great!

What size LED's are you using for the engines?


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

The joint is very tight. I didn't even consider trying to fill it. I'll be using pre wired 5mm LEDs with .5mm fiber optics.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Are you using 5mm LED's for the engines?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Robiwan, I realize you're putting lots of work and TLC into the build (boggled over the garbage chute work!) but just looking at your build so far, I would dare to guess that even if one treated it as a 'glue bomb' (straight out of the box, no mods, just trimming sprue gates and gluing it together) one would have a very presentable model.

I'm really liking the work these guys do. Maybe they will crank out that Blockade Runner and give Bandai a little panic attack!


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

delete


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Crowe, yes, I'm using 5mm LEDs for the engines. I sanded the outside to diffuse the light to the sides better. The LED has had the ridge around the base sanded off so the LED can be pushed into a section of tubing. This is then slid in thru a hole drilled in the block. This way I can raise the LED into the bell and get the best light reflection in the bell itself. I'll post pics of this process tonight.

Steve, don't feel obligated to light this kit. She builds into a beautiful static model right out of the box. Just give her a good paint job and she will be a trophy!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Still waiting on fiber from the Fiber Optic Store....

Took care of the hull seam, top and bottom. I used Tulip brand fabric paint. Its basically thick acrylic paint (great for light blocking small areas too!) and dries super fast. I taped so just the seam was visible. I laid down a bead of Tulip and let it set for a minute. Then I just took my finger and wiped off the excess. Doing this also ensures the paint is down in the joint. I then removed the mask and let it sit for a few more minutes. Next I took a pointed cotton swab and cleaned up the smeared excess. Until I get primer on it its hard to tell if there is any seam left, if there is its shallower than the surrounding panel lines, plus, no lost detail from putty and sanding!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

This is how I have the engines set up. The LED is mounted in a tube. The tube was then pushed up and down until the desired illumination level was achieved inside the bell. The LED will then be glued to the tube and the tube glued to the block.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Robiwan, using puffy fabric paint is a brilliant idea for light blocking. Bravo!

One thing I might suggest for the engines. We all know the drawback of LEDs, and your sanding the 5mm diodes to try and get some diffusion will help some. 

But I recall another thread, it was discovered that the model railroad community had found an omnidirectional LED and it was being used for streetlights and other items to more properly give the effect of an incandescent bulb. Have you considered trying that out for the engines? It seems to me to be a perfect use.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

It's an LED with a concave face instead of rounded. I'm going to order some of those tomorrow.

*Over on the RPF it was just posted that Revell USA's Ed Sexton confirmed that the Zvezda Star Destroyer is coming to the US in May of this year!*

:surprise::smile2::grin2:


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

robiwon2 said:


> It's an LED with a concave face instead of rounded. I'm going to order some of those tomorrow.


Where do you order the LED's from? Particularly the LED's with a concave face?


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

I don't know if this is the company he's talking about but they have a great selection of pre-wired LEDs and a great ordering system for them.

Model Train Diorama Software, LED Lights, Evan Designs


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

JeffBond said:


> I don't know if this is the company he's talking about but they have a great selection of pre-wired LEDs and a great ordering system for them.
> 
> Model Train Diorama Software, LED Lights, Evan Designs


I can also vouch for these guys. Never a problem. Stuff always works.


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Hunk A Junk said:


> I can also vouch for these guys. Never a problem. Stuff always works.


I concur. I just got started into lighting my models. This guy has been terrific.


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## bigobear (Dec 11, 2012)

man I can't wait to get mine. it shipped just waiting to get it.


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## oshkosh619 (Feb 24, 2009)

OUTSTANDING build so far Robiwan!! I'm getting a little nervous about mine... said it was "Processed through the Moscow Facility" on December 23rd.. hoping it didn't fall out of hyperspace somewhere...


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

robiwon2 said:


> It's an LED with a concave face instead of rounded. I'm going to order some of those tomorrow.
> 
> *Over on the RPF it was just posted that Revell USA's Ed Sexton confirmed that the Zvezda Star Destroyer is coming to the US in May of this year!*
> 
> :surprise::smile2::grin2:


While I hope that good news is true - I'm a bit nervous about the pricing from Revell.

While ordering the Bandai A-wing from Amazon, I noticed a listing for the 1/53 Revell Easy Snap Kit AT-AT in Rogue One packaging that is going for $100. For a build and play snap kit - I would think the price-point would be around where the Star Destroyer was, not three times as much.

Then I remembered the repackaged Fine Molds Falcon being sold as Revell's Masterpiece Series at a $300 price point here.

I'm wondering aloud if it will be cheaper to simply buy it from Russia.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

INVAR said:


> While I hope that good news is true - I'm a bit nervous about the pricing from Revell.
> 
> While ordering the Bandai A-wing from Amazon, I noticed a listing for the 1/53 Revell Easy Snap Kit AT-AT in Rogue One packaging that is going for $100. For a build and play snap kit - I would think the price-point would be around where the Star Destroyer was, not three times as much.
> 
> ...


It may well be. Sadly there seems to be shortsighted foolishness on Revell USA part. Almost as if they were taking the overseas' makers retail price and doubling it in order to make sure they're making a profit. Of course when you do that as a business model you never ever make the kind of sales you think to make...


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I started running fiber last night. Running fiber, lots of fiber, is soo much fun......


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

What kind of glue are you using to secure the strands once you got them through your drill holes?

AND, are you planning on tying all the fibers into one cylinder for a single LED or multiple LEDS?

I guess I'm asking what your thoughts are in terms of lighting that SDII. Separate power sources for the engines or a single source for everything?

Do you think it is large enough to add a battery pack to the inside and keep all the lighting internal? I'm thinking I might want hang this one from my ceiling to display rather than build a stand for it.

I'm nearly getting done with the 1/29 X-wing from Revell and I did light that one with a coin-cell internally with the button switch on the inside of the front landing gear station. It's my very first lighting effort and I wanted to do my first on something big enough to get over the learning curve, which is why I ordered it. It's pretty cool, and I can zoom it around the room with everything lit. The real challenge is going to be that Bandai Falcon, which is what I was gearing up for - and then Zvezda showed up and my appetite has changed.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

INVAR said:


> What kind of glue are you using to secure the strands once you got them through your drill holes?


You wouldn't want to use a glue that does anything to the fiber.
CA is bad I can tell you from experience.

Two part epoxy has worked well for me in the past.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I wonder if that puffy fabric paint dries in a way so that it would be a good anchor for the fiber optic. 

I suspect Robiwon has his technique down pat by now.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

INVAR said:


> What kind of glue are you using to secure the strands once you got them through your drill holes?


I've used good old fashion white glue (Elmers raided from my kids' school supplies) and it works fine. Just make sure to let it dry completely. It helps to have some 'tooth' on the surface of the piece the fiber is going in through to help grab. Avoid CA or hot glues. Haven't tried Tulip yet, but I suspect that would be a good option as long as it's globbed on there and given time to set.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Thanks guys.
Invar, I will group as many fibers together as I can to light with a single LED. However, just in the picture above there almost 64 fibers, and that's only the front and one side of the deck. I still need to do the other side and the super structure attached to the upper hull. That's going to be close to 150-200 fibers right there. Then there's the bridge and both trenches. Probably close to 500 windows in this.

For this build, and recently on my Salzo Galactica, I use Loctite brand G02 glue. It's a silicone type glue that holds the fibers tight and remains a bit rubbery after a cure overnight. Sets in about 30 minutes. I have not tried the Tulip to secure fibers. As it's just thick paint I doubt it would work well for that purpose.

Here is my Salzo Galactica (Battlestar Larson) built with .5mm and .25mm fiber, all secured with Loctite G02 glue.









Stay tuned for more crazy and wild pictures of exciting fiber optic work! Yaaayyy!!!!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

robiwon2 said:


> I started running fiber last night. Running fiber, lots of fiber, is soo much fun......


I would like to do this to mine. What size fiber optics are you using to meet the scale of the model?


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I'm using .5mm on mine Opus


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

robiwon2 said:


> I'm using .5mm on mine Opus


Sorry for having you to repeat this. I saw you answered earlier in the post but just wanted to clarify. This is a dream kit for me so I want to do it right. Thanks for answering again. Love what you're doing on what you have posted. Great ideas here.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Robiwon, you doubt the fabric paint would anchor the fiber? Maybe so, but surely you're old enough to remember the adhesive properties of old Testors square bottle paint. I recall having a bottle of Red that...well, let's say thick and sticky as heck doesn't even come close to its state.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Who are you calling old? You don't even know me from Adam! You don't know what paint I have or what my experiences are!!!!!

And I'll have you know I have plenty of that square Testors bottle paint and I even have some of the Pactra 'Namel paint still left in those embossed bottles!!! And another thing.....



Wait, I am old.....crap....



:grin2:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I'll call you a kid, if that will make you feel any better. 

I'm pretty certain that I am probably the oldest member on this forum. So, you are all kids to me!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I'll be 50 in two months....


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

robiwon2 said:


> I'll be 50 in two months....


Punk.

(I turned 50 six mo ago.)



Punk.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

:toetap05:


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Punk.
> 
> (I turned 50 six mo ago.)
> 
> ...


Get off my lawn! I got you beat by over a year.


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

You're ALL punk kids!

I'm 54 so there!

Get off my lawn dammitanyhow!


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## Daniel_B (Jun 28, 2016)

Well, I guess I'm a baby since I'm 33. Mentally 15, though.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I am 58 years old and I built the first generation AMT Enterprise when it came out. Not well but I did it. Mom helped with the decals. 

One of my first builds was the Aurora Seaview. The gentleman at the hardware store sold me a tube of Ambroid cement (for wood models) because I don't think he actually understood about styrene kits. Naturally the Ambroid didn't work for jack. I learned. I learned to use mom's pinking shears to trim parts from the sprue. I learned that more glue doesn't mean it holds better. I learned the tinfoil and toothpick trick for applying cement. Then my uncle took me to an actual hobby shop on one of his visits and well, there ya go. Down the path we all took.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

My first model I built on my own was also the original AMT Enterprise. I cold not get the nacelles straight or to stay put for the life of me. No paint, no decals.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Same here: first build was the AMT Enterprise. Big box, the one where the nacelle pylons connected to the secondary hull with plastic wedges that slotted into loops at the bottom of the pylon. It was never straight and broke within an hour or playing with it (because I was 7). I made it the Intrepid because I liked the name. To my small hands at the time, I thought that model was HUGE! My first weathered model was the X-Wing (because until this time I had no idea spaceships could be weathered). I used Testors enamels over the bare white plastic. Looked awful. Then a friend suggested using a candle to get more realistic scorch marks. I melted the engine exhaust cones. I also melted a Aurora Seaview in the oven after I lost the clear window piece and thought I could replace it with some clay that needed to be heat cured. And thus I learned. :laugh:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

57 here- I really do not remember my very first kit- it was either a Thunderbird 2 or the Enterprise. 

Back on topic (before I go off too far down Memory Lane)- This Zevzda ISD is a kit I am really looking forward to. I will probably not add lights to mine because every time I do so it telescopes the build into months. I am watching all these build photos being posted on different forums and sorting out what I will do with mine. Unless Bandai brings something truly extraordinary to the table this is most likely to be my ISD kit- I did have a heavily modified Ertl one but that got accidentally destroyed tears ago and I never went back since.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Richard, the kit builds up just beautiful without lights. I've seen a couple so far. While I still hold out hope Bandai will offer an even more detailed SD, I'm not going to hold my breath either. The beautiful Zvezda kit fills a big hole in my SW collection.


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Richard Baker said:


> 57 here- I really do not remember my very first kit- it was either a Thunderbird 2 or the Enterprise.


I remember the very first model I ever built that was plastic and not those wood airplane models with the rubber band propellers:










My first 'starship' model was this one from 1977:










The hard on for an accurate Star Destroyer I had has lasted 40 years. I built 3 or 4 of the MPC SD kits from ESB, but right off the bat it was clearly seen as inaccurate. But it would have to do.

Until Disney did that 5" die Cast followed by the Revell Snap and play kit that just came out - and now this much desired 2 footer from Zvezda.

Like Robiwon, I would hope for the Bandai sneak peek we saw in their promo video - but I am about to give up on that and just go ahead and dive into this one and order it in about a month.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I don't think it has to be either/or. If one wants to build a decent Star Destroyer in styrene plastic, it sure looks like the Zevzda fits the bill. If Bandai makes a SD, it's not like time spent building a Zevzda is wasted or useless. Unless there's some rule that one is only allowed to build one largish Star Destroyer kit that nobody told me about.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Right! As much as I love the Zvezda, if Bandai comes out with a big SD, yeah, I'll get it too!


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I would love to have a Bandai edition of a large Star Destroyer- their mini-kit is exquisite. Eventually they may produce one but right now Zvezda is eating their lunch. I have very limited space to display anything large and so I will be sticking to one ISD unless something drastically changes. A good friend is getting me one for Christmas, should arrive in a few weeks and then I will be having a lot of fun.

This is why I was on the fence about lighting- I figure realistically this will be my one big kit and I want to make it spectacular. I also want to finish it in a reasonable amount of time and I will be doing a lot of additional chip-detailing to it. I might settle for the ANH style lighting with just the primary engines and ventral docking bays, right now I am having fun watching these online builds and pondering...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Got my Zvezda ISD today. Great kit for the scale. Pity about the oversized command bridge, but I guess I can live with it. (-:

Not sure about lighting this one. It's the scale that concerns me... even the finest optic leads may appear too large for "windows." If nothing else I'll light the main bay, engines, and a scattering of docking ports. Sometimes less is more -- but I look forward to seeing Robiwan2's model come together!

I too hope Bandai releases their own ISD, but I'm not holding my breath (the "prototype" ISD pictured in those model show images is the Anigrand kit).


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I am still waiting on mine. I am told it won't be until February before I receive it.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Carson Dyle said:


> Got my Zvezda ISD today. Great kit for the scale. Pity about the oversized command bridge, but I guess I can live with it. (-:
> 
> Not sure about lighting this one. It's the scale that concerns me... even the finest optic leads may appear too large for "windows." If nothing else I'll light the main bay, engines, and a scattering of docking ports. Sometimes less is more -- but I look forward to seeing Robiwan2's model come together!
> 
> I too hope Bandai releases their own ISD, but I'm not holding my breath (the "prototype" ISD pictured in those model show images is the Anigrand kit).


The one in this video is not the Anigrand (go to 4:12 mark):

[ame]https://youtu.be/2EKAbXDe1BM?t=252[/ame]


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## Daniel_B (Jun 28, 2016)

I wish Bandai would say one way or the other if they are gonna release that Star Destroyer. I wouldn't have gotten the Zvezda if they are, because there is no doubt Bandai's will be even more accurate.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

So is the bridge on this model a major inaccuracy? I know the fact that it is not running parallel with the angle of the hull isn't accurate but can be fixed. However, I keep hearing the size of the bridge is too big. If this is a glaring error, are there any after market kits being planned to correct this?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

It seems to me there's a good deal of difference in Star Destroyers, depending on which image you look at. Like the 11 foot Enterprise, it may well be a case of "this model represents this specific effects miniature used on this date for this one shot".


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

edge10 said:


> The one in this video is not the Anigrand (go to 4:12 mark):


There's no way to know that for sure, it could just be their build up of the Anigrand.

Of course, I want to believe...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

edge10 said:


> The one in this video is not the Anigrand


With respect, I disagree. But others are free to draw their own conclusions. :smile2:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Daniel_B said:


> I wish Bandai would say one way or the other if they are gonna release that Star Destroyer. I wouldn't have gotten the Zvezda if they are, because there is no doubt Bandai's will be even more accurate.


Keep hold of this thought:

"40th anniversary of Star Wars, May 2017"

Bandai is not a company to swing and miss like, say, Round 2. We're going to get several solid base hits, probably a few fouls, there'll be some ho-hum strikes but there's the potential for home runs. 

Just have to hang on and see what happens.


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

I expect the 1/72 Falcon for the anniversary.

And a Boba Fett ROTJ recolor...


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Carson Dyle said:


> With respect, I disagree. But others are free to draw their own conclusions. :smile2:


I don't have a puke bucket account, so I'll just provide a link to your own thread on the RPF which I attached some rather convincing evidence to:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=255710&p=4169887&viewfull=1#post4169887

With much respect.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

I don't think your "evidence" is as convincing as you seem to think it is (see my reply on the RPF). 

Again, others are welcome to draw their own conclusions. Look at the upper-most circles in the comparison shots below. The hull panels match exactly. Do you honestly believe that's a coincidence? I'm happy to post other examples, but I don't want to further derail Robiwan2's thread. As appealing as it may be to believe the Bandai model exists, it's nothing more than a slightly redressed version of the Anigrand model.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Carson Dyle said:


> I don't think your "evidence" is as convincing as you seem to think it is (see my reply on the RPF).
> 
> Again, others are welcome to draw their own conclusions. Look at the upper-most circles in the comparison shots below. The hull panels match exactly. Do you honestly believe that's a coincidence? I'm happy to post other examples, but I don't want to further derail Robiwan2's thread. As appealing as it may be to believe the Bandai model exists, it's nothing more than a slightly redressed version of the Anigrand model.


That is a picture of the SD from that Bandai had at the trade shows. I believe it is widely accepted that it is an Anigrand. The SD in the video is widely believed to be different (you are the first I have heard of that claims it is an Anigrand).

Anyway, it is not worth arguing about. Time will tell.

Peace and long life, one who goes by Carson Dyle.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Opus Penguin said:


> So is the bridge on this model a major inaccuracy? I know the fact that it is not running parallel with the angle of the hull isn't accurate but can be fixed. However, I keep hearing the size of the bridge is too big. If this is a glaring error, are there any after market kits being planned to correct this?


Opus, I have not delved into researching the differences and similarities between the Z and the other ships seen in the movies. Others have and sometimes it turns not ugly, but "opinionated" we will say. From what I have read this model seams to be a pretty good representation of the SD that is seen crashed at the beginning of The Force Awakens. Others have said it matches details seen on the 8 footer, while others have said it's a completely original design.

For me, it's a big friggin Star Destroyer that I'm building and adding lights to. When done, it will be a big friggin Star Destroyer with lights. That's good enough for me.

There may be some parts in the works soon. The person who may do them (that I know of) has not received his kit yet.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

edge10 said:


> That is a picture of the SD from that Bandai had at the trade shows. I believe it is widely accepted that it is an Anigrand. The SD in the video is widely believed to be different (you are the first I have heard of that claims it is an Anigrand).
> 
> Anyway, it is not worth arguing about. Time will tell.
> 
> Peace and long life, one who goes by Carson Dyle.


Not trying to stir the pot, but it's more of a technical question or observation: If the Anigrand kit is accepted to be a highly regarded, carefully researched model, and we do know that Bandai is really doing their homework regarding research (they must have the full co-operation of the Lucasfilm archive people), so saying that... wouldn't it be inevitable that the Anigrand resin garage kit and the Bandai SD seen at the trade shows would look pretty much identical?

I don't doubt it's possible that Bandai has used an Anigrand kit as their 'test market placeholder', but it's equally possible it was a full scratch build made by a super and I mean SUPER fan in Japan. They do that thing. The prototype 'Domelaze III' super battleship 1/1000 Domelaze The 3rd by Bandai | HobbyLink Japan shown at trade shows as "under consideration" was hand made by one of those meisters, not one of Bandai's patternmakers. 

Again, I'm not casting shade on the possibility that Bandai used the Anigrand kit, but anyone who thinks it's not possible that a 'pro fan' scratch built a display that ended up looking mostly (even completely) like the Anigrand kit just doesn't know the kind of things Japanese builders are capable of doing. 

Given the photos of Carson's build (the clamps! I've never SEEN that many clamps before!  ) I could almost believe a Japanese builder may have taken one look at bent, warped resin and said "OY! It would be faster to build from plastic card!" and went to it, using the Anigrand only as a visual guide. 

Hey, it could happen.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Steve H said:


> I could almost believe a Japanese builder may have taken one look at bent, warped resin and said "OY! It would be faster to build from plastic card!"


As an aside, the thought of a Japanese builder saying, "OY!" really makes me giggle. :laugh:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Hunk A Junk said:


> As an aside, the thought of a Japanese builder saying, "OY!" really makes me giggle. :laugh:


Good. That was the intent. 

There is a similar exclamation in Japanese (and other languages of course, Irish and Welsh come to mind) but I think it's usually spelled "Oi". The use of 'Oy' tends to have a specific cultural understanding and I chose it on purpose for just that humor.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

robiwon2 said:


> Opus, I have not delved into researching the differences and similarities between the Z and the other ships seen in the movies. Others have and sometimes it turns not ugly, but "opinionated" we will say. From what I have read this model seams to be a pretty good representation of the SD that is seen crashed at the beginning of The Force Awakens. Others have said it matches details seen on the 8 footer, while others have said it's a completely original design.
> 
> For me, it's a big friggin Star Destroyer that I'm building and adding lights to. When done, it will be a big friggin Star Destroyer with lights. That's good enough for me.
> 
> There may be some parts in the works soon. The person who may do them (that I know of) has not received his kit yet.


I figure no two ships in the US Navy of the same class are identical to each other- each has yard changes, custom equipment and retrofits/replacements/upgrades. When I build mine I will not be striving to match something seen onscreen but to make it look as good as I can sitting on my shelf. If it does not look like the ones shown in the movies, well it is a very big fleet...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

robiwon2 said:


> For me, it's a big friggin Star Destroyer that I'm building and adding lights to. When done, it will be a big friggin Star Destroyer with lights. That's good enough for me.


Yeah, I think this is the right attitude. At first I was bit thrown by the size of the command bridge, but the more I think about it the less bothered I am. It's going to be beautiful once you're finished.



edge10 said:


> That is a picture of the SD from that Bandai had at the trade shows. I believe it is widely accepted that it is an Anigrand. The SD in the video is widely believed to be different (you are the first I have heard of that claims it is an Anigrand).


It's not about being "first." I have no dog in this fight, other than a desire to set the record straight. And I know how to read a bloody photograph. :smile2:

*TAMIYA*


*ANIGRAND*




Steve H said:


> anyone who thinks it's not possible that a 'pro fan' scratch built a display that ended up looking mostly (even completely) like the Anigrand kit just doesn't know the kind of things Japanese builders are capable of doing.


No doubt "pro fans" could replicate the Anigrand model if they so desired, but it's doubtful they could do so to the exacting extent indicated by the pix. And anyway, why bother when it would be far easier to simply create your own model from scratch -- a model that, with a little effort, could be even more accurate than the Anigrand model? It doesn't make any sense. Also, finally, there are tells that the model in the video is made of resin (as opposed to styrene stock).

Believe me, I understand why some might want to believe Tamiya has built their own prototype. Hell, I want to believe it, but if they have done so we've yet to see images of it. This is one of those cases where the most simple and obvious explanation is also the most logical: the Tamiya trade show model, the model in the Tamiya video and (my) Anigrand model are all versions of the same Anigrand resin kit. All you have to do is look at the pix.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

The Anigrand kit is based on a 3D mesh made by Fractalsponge. Here is a link to some awesome images!
Imperator-class Star Destroyer


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Yeah, I remember when he was building this. Who knows if Tamiya will eventually bring a large-scale ISD to market, but they could do a lot worse than base their kit on Fractal's mesh.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Technical point, Carson. Bandai, not Tamiya. 

Mind, Tamiya or Hasegawa taking a crack at Star Wars would be interesting indeed. 

Well, then if the Anigrand kit sourced its specific detailing from a 3D mesh, couldn't a pro fan (or a Bandai pattern maker) source the same mesh, maybe using 3D printing and put out a model that would look like the Anigrand? I would assume so. 

Regardless, no matter how good that mesh looks, I'm guessing 'first source' references would produce an even better kit. 

We'll see, right? I can't see Bandai teasing the thing in official product line promotional videos and not putting it into production.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Steve H said:


> Technical point, Carson. Bandai, not Tamiya.


Oops!



Steve H said:


> if the Anigrand kit sourced its specific detailing from a 3D mesh, couldn't a pro fan (or a Bandai pattern maker) source the same mesh, maybe using 3D printing and put out a model that would look like the Anigrand?


Sure. But why bother? And, in any case, my overall point is that the models in question are all the same, i.e. Bandai has not gone back to the drawing board to create something new or better. Whether the source is referred to as Anigrand or FractalSponge, the point is that Bandai has not engineered their own new, original iteration of the ISD (at least, not that we know of, based on the models we've seen). They're just sourcing a model that's already out there. And I still am unable to see the logic in painstakingly reproducing an Anigrand kit. Wouldn't it be faster, easier and less costly to simply acquire and build a kit that's already been produced?


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Carson Dyle said:


> Sure. But why bother? And, in any case, my overall point is that the models in question are all the same, i.e. Bandai has not gone back to the drawing board to create something new or better. Whether the source is referred to as Anigrand or FractalSponge, the point is that Bandai has not engineered their own new, original iteration of the ISD (at least, not that we know of, based on the models we've seen). They're just sourcing a model that's already out there. And I still am unable to see the logic in painstakingly reproducing an Anigrand kit. Wouldn't it be faster, easier and less costly to simply acquire and build a kit that's already been produced?


OK, valid. But we're not talking actual production kit yet, we're still at the stage of only showing an 'Under Consideration' display and whatever model that is in the promo videos. They may have built several Star Destroyer 'under consideration' models for different displays and trade shows (this does happen, it's easier to pre-place one in China for the Hong Kong show for example while the one in Japan moves around for different Bandai events). 

You painstakingly recreate the Anigrand kit (if this is what was done) because you don't yet have the 'first source' research data to do the digital prototyping for tool making a production kit, and your display should have the detailed look because fans WILL be looking and calling them out on obvious mistakes. 

Did you know that Bandai can bring a model from conception to production in 3 months? It's astonishing. it takes longer than that due to other various considerations and complications (marketing, factory time, licensing approval, design tweaking and so on) but wow. 

Let me share something that I think will be instructive. Here's an interview with the man at Bandai in charge of the Space Battleship Yamato product line. Interview with model developer Hirofumi Kishiyama | CosmoDNA

Note the passion for the subject. It's informative. I'm positive there's a guy doing the exact same thing for Bandai's Star Wars line. 

I mean, consider the Death Star tile bases. They don't have to do that. They add tooling cost and production resources, maybe even bump up the price by a 100 Yen or so (vs. having one generic base that can be shot on its own and packed in the kit). Why do that, make those bases? Because it's cool. And it makes an exciting display. 

When Bandai officially unveils their large Star Destroyer kit, I believe it will impress. 

Mind, I would hate to think we get into an either/or problem here. If there was a choice between manufacturing the large Star Destroyer and a 1/72 Falcon because the numbers people didn't feel two big kits in one year was possible... urg.

But wait. We've got 9 years of anniversary checkpoints coming! The big ones of '77, '80 and '83 if nothing else. There's hope in the 'long game'


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Steve H said:


> You painstakingly recreate the Anigrand kit (if this is what was done) because you don't yet have the 'first source' research data to do the digital prototyping for tool making a production kit, and your display should have the detailed look because fans WILL be looking and calling them out on obvious mistakes.


Sorry, don't buy it. But this is just speculation, and I'm primarily interested in determining what we know based on the posted imagery. 

Yesterday I posted that the so-called Bandai ISD depicted in both the Trade Show images as well as the Bandai video was nothing more than the Anigrand resin kit with a few extra greeblies attached. I was promptly told that was incorrect. I've since posted images which show that the so-called Bandai ISD is, in fact, the Anigrand kit, aka the FractalSponge model. My SOLE PURPOSE in posting was to clarify that Bandai has not, so far as we have seen, constructed a "new and improved" ISD model. All they've done, so far as we can determine from the images at hand, is re-purpose the Anigrand model for promotional purposes.

If and when Bandai (or whomever) builds an all-new ISD I will be among the first to celebrate its arrival. But I'm not going to delude myself that we're looking at something other than a version of the Anigrand kit when the images say otherwise (no matter how much I want to believe there's an all-new kit on the horizon).

Anyway, I feel bad for having taken up space on Robiwan's thread. I've only done so in the interest of setting this particular record straight. Happy modeling!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I better get some new progress pictures up for you guys to get you back in track!&#55357;&#56836;

I did get my Tantive from Shapeways today. Pics coming in a few...


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

If you follow me on FB I just finished all the fiber optics and started installing LEDs. Lots of pictures. I'll post the pics here later. Gotta upload them.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Update time!
Finished running all the fiber optics. And yes, I used all 160 feet of fiber with just trimmings left over. I got all my LEDs wired up and fiber cups installed. Below are some progress pictures.


























Pre wired LEDs ready to install.

















And a quick lighting test.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I am no expert, but I think that's gonna work out pretty good. 

It's interesting. As far as I know, no ship in the Star Wars galaxy uses position or formation lights. Mind, a Star Destroyer covered in red and green and blue blinkies would look fairly goofy.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

The Falcon does.
And thanks! It's turning out pretty good I think so far.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Really looking great!


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

robiwon2 said:


> The Falcon does.
> And thanks! It's turning out pretty good I think so far.


It does? I know it's got the 'headlights' on the cargo arms and TFA gave us all those 'landing' lights but there's red/green position lights?


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Not red and green position lights, but I always figured the red lights on the bottom were some kind of formation lights.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

robiwon2 said:


> Not red and green position lights, but I always figured the red lights on the bottom were some kind of formation lights.


Want to make sure I don't misunderstand. 

Are we talking the red lights added in TFA? Where they were occasionally bright white? I just assume those are landing/cargo handling lights because smuggling ships don't always land on nice clean well lit spaceports.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

There were other various red lights under her too. Chewie, while carrying the busted up 3P0 in the bag, hit 3P0's head on one during the escape from Cloud City.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

They added all sorts of lights for 'The Empire Strikes Back'- IMO it really made that ship look like a functioning vehicle instead of a set prop...

I really like this builds lighting setup- I doubt I will go this far with mine, probably just engines and hanger bays for me


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Thanks Richard, it's been a fun build so far. Still waiting on my engine LEDs from Germany to get here...
Tonight, I think I will work on trimming the "inside back wall" of the trench on the upper hull so it fits down over the fibers in the lower hull.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

So I cut the back trench wall from the upper hull. Good news is that it worked! The upper hull rests on the tops of the trench detail parts so the upper hull can still be glued firmly to the lower. I'll use the Testors Model Master liquid glue so I can run a bead along both edges. I left a little bit at the front for alignment.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

robiwon2 said:


> So I cut the back trench wall from the upper hull. Good news is that it worked! The upper hull rests on the tops of the trench detail parts so the upper hull can still be glued firmly to the lower. I'll use the Testors Model Master liquid glue so I can run a bead along both edges. I left a little bit at the front for alignment.


Pictures or it didn't happen! 

Not having the kit yet, I'm not sure what exactly you are referring to.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Well, I'll get pics tonight!
Ya see that little half wall behind the trench detail piece? There's a mirror to that on the upper hull. If there are any fibers in the trench above that half wall, the mirror half wall on the upper hull will cut the fibers off as the two come together. That half wall on the upper hull has to be removed to clear any fibers.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Ouch! That's a pain. Too bad this was not reviewed by the designers to accommodate those who want to light this.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Yikes. And I assume it would be way too much a pain in the asteroids to just notch the wall where the fibers run.

Well, in the grand scheme of things, it seems to be an annoyance and not a work stopper.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Nah, not a big deal. Took about 20 minutes to nip away the wall. And everything fits with no issues.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Opus Penguin said:


> Ouch! That's a pain. Too bad this was not reviewed by the designers to accommodate those who want to light this.


IIRC the superstructure has the exterior detail panels going on top of another layer of plastic which forms the unit so any windows have to be drilled through two layers of styrene...


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

My Tamiya Handy Drill had no problem with the Russian plastic. The only issue was threading fiber into large protrusions on the trench where there was space between the two parts. No big deal though, took an extra few seconds to find the other hole....


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

It seems the intent of the 'trench slot wall' design is to avoid giant alignment pins and pillars, which I think ends up as a positive. Can you imagine the potential for molding sink holes if there was a couple dozen half inch thick pillars lining the hull? yikes.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Now that you mention it, I don't think I've seen one ejector pin mark or sink in this kit!

Oh, and here is the Revell of Germany rebox of the Zvezda.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Since my last proclamation here went so well  , I'll just say it:

I think they are both the snap kit. If the center one were the Zvezda, it would appear bigger than the one on the right. 

It doesn't matter one iota but there it is.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Link to the website. Click on the picture, enlarge, and you will see the hexagon globe base and separate support rods for the globes. Sorry, definitely the Zvezda.http://www.jedinews.co.uk/collecting/articles/uk-toy-fair-2017-revell/


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

robiwon2 said:


> Link to the website. Click on the picture, enlarge, and you will see the hexagon globe base and separate support rods for the globes. Sorry, definitely the Zvezda.UK Toy Fair 2017 ? Revell - Jedi News


If you say so.  Again, it really doesn't matter. We know what it is and that it is coming to both Europe and the US, so it's a win, win, win scenario.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Here's a picture of Revell's display from another angle. The smaller snap Star Destroyer is closer to the camera which probably made it look the same size as the 1:2700 SD in the picture Robiwon2 posted. Kind of like a forced perspective shot mostly due to the wide angle camera lens. It's clear from this angle in this picture below that it's smaller than the 1:2700 SD.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

crowe-t said:


> Here's a picture of Revell's display from another angle. The smaller snap Star Destroyer is closer to the camera which probably made it look the same size as the 1:2700 SD in the picture Robiwon2 posted. Kind of like a forced perspective shot mostly due to the wide angle camera lens. It's clear from this angle in this picture below that it's smaller than the 1:2700 SD.


What a difference an angle makes:thumbsup:

From the other angle, they looked to be about the same size to my old eyes. You can really see the difference in size in the new picture!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Testing the remote control lighting.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Got the bridge LEDs wired up this morning. There are four LEDs mounted in a bar attached to the back of the center support beam. For got to take pictures with the lights off. I'll do that tonight. I think this will work quite well with stubby fibers.

Now, here is the real reason I did it this way instead of running fibers down the neck. I have hopes that we will soon see a 3D printed bridge face with the familiar slanted *FX *on its face. By doing it this way I can easily remove the temporarily attached kit face and replace it later on with an upgrade face and not worry about the fiber run.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Another lighting test...


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Here's the magic of slowing down and paying attention. I was going to write about that bridge lighting and ask if you were going to just drill holes and let the light out in a 'natural' way or if you were going to thread fiber stubs to capture the light and lo, you said 'stubby fibers which of course pre-answers my foolish question. 

So, I will say "Yep, there's lights there" 

Man, the new generation super bright (COB?) LEDs sure are impressive. I bought a stupid little 'headband' light at Walmart for a Dollar, dang thing is brighter than an old 3-cell incandescent flashlight!


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Stubby Fibers....:smile2:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

robiwon2 said:


> Stubby Fibers....:smile2:


And his country band jamboree!

Featuring Cob Leds on washerboard! Puffy Paint on banjo!

I'll be waiting over here for the men in the white coats...


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

The fellars from the nervous hospital are waintin fer me to finish, din well come and get ya....


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Engine lighting test. No bells yet. Video under the picture.









View My Video


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Really looking good! :thumbsup:


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## Dark Guyver (May 30, 2009)

Excellent work!
Still finishing up the Revell, and the Zvezda just arrived this morning.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Now in black primer. Grey going on in a few hours.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

robiwon2 said:


> Now in black primer. Grey going on in a few hours.


Wow, while it might seem like forever to you, it is amazing how fast this build went.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

I started this build Jan. 3 so just over 2 months in so far! Duplicolor grey primer and panel masking before the the white top coats go on.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Final color coats applied. After priming in grey (seen above) I had masked off various panels. The model was shot with Duplicolor Universal White and the masks removed. This revealed grey primer panels. Obviously these are too dark as is, so another few light coats of white were applied to almost cover the grey panels. This is the same technique I used on my Revell snap kit. Closely monitoring the coverage I stopped just before the grey panels disappeared. This gave a nice and evenly controlled panel effect without a lot of masking and painting or the need for airbrushing. Once I clip the fibers, I'll post better shots of the paneling effect.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Looks to be a great color match!


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Outstanding!

I'm just now messing around with dry fitting so I can decide how to greeblie-up the kit first and widen the side trenches just a tiny bit.

I will definitely be revising your WIP build when I get to the point of installing FO, LEDs and painting. I continue to be amazed at how quickly you are able to crank something like this out.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Thanks guys!

It looks "creamier" in the pictures due to the setting sun, but in person it turned out to be a very nice white concrete color.


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

I still cannot believe you are using rattle cans to achieve that.

I never have any luck with rattle cans beyond perhaps the Tamiya fine primers. Detail always gets blotted out and the clumping and spotting is always a plague with me and cans.

I'm impressed with your use of the Duplicator Max, but I'm worried about how my skills with a can are going to impact the build once I get it greeblied and wired up.

So I'll probably be airbrushing mine with various whites and grays in acrylic after she's primed with Tamiya gray.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lol, thanks! I've been using spray cans for 40 years. I have two Badger airbrushes and never use them.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Paint is done. Need to do a medium grey wash this afternoon. Detail pieces added (canons, crane, antenna, etc.). Engines look good. I'll do a little detail painting in the garbage chute as well.


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Phenomenal. Truly amazing. I'm still stunned at the speed in which you were able to complete this. Are you pleased with the kit and the build?

How many LEDs did you end up using for the FO? I know you used 6 for the engines and it looks like you popped 6 or more picos to the side trenches (very nice BTW).

I will likely be several months at minimum (April and May is out for me in terms of time) before I am far enough into the build to begin installing the LEDs and FO.

Right now for me, I'm dry fitting and analyzing. I will likely do all my greebie and enhancement work first. I ordered some 1/700 Japanese photo etched WW II Battleship parts for some greeblies. I'm adding a control room to the forward bay and an additional bay inside the front main hangar bay. That is on top of crafting the garbage chute and enlarging the trench height slightly and adding trench and superstructure sidewall greebie detail.

But yours is certainly how I would like my build to arrive at in terms of overall look. I will likely get a little crazy with masking for hull plates because I really like how my Moebius Pegasus turned out with that effort and I can see that working in a more subdued fashion with this.

This will be the pinnacle of anything I've ever wanted to build (Unless Bandai suddenly dumps the one I have given up on waiting for on the market), so I plan on taking my time to get it right for me.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Thanks INVAR! Its been great fun building this. The detail, parts fit and quality are all top notch!! Kudos and a big bow to Zvezda for releasing a kit no other model company would touch in this fashion.

If I remember correctly, 7 5mm for the engines, 7 piccos (6 trench floods and 1 garbage chute) and I believe either 18 or 19 5mm for the fiber. Just about 170 feet of .5mm fiber optic and the remote on/off switch. Power comes from a 9v cell phone charger.

Looking forward to your build. I'll go a little more crazy with the details on my second build when it hits the states in May.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Here are the tools I use to trim fibers. I use the sprue cutters the most, but the others come in handy as well.









Here is some trench fiber sticking out. Note that the entire fiber is covered in paint. Get your clipper in there as close to the hull as you can. 









Here is the same fiber, now trimmed, note that we now have a nice pinpoint of light.









That's all there is to it. You may not always get right up to the hull with your clippers, but if not, that just gives you a bit of 3-dimensional lighting!


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I have seen some cut the fiber off a millimeter from the hull and melt the end to create a lens effect- I have not tried this yet, is this something you have experimented with?


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Not on something with this many windows. I lost count at 500. I have "mushroomed" fiber before though yes.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Very, very 'clean' Robiwon. Beautiful job. 

Stupid question! I always have a stupid question! 

How do you determine where to drill for the light fibers? Are there some kind of visible indication where the lights are or is it just from looking at pictures and freehand drilling where it looks right?


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

...stupid people dont ask questions. :cheers2:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> ...stupid people dont ask questions. :cheers2:


You mean I r smrt? huh. whoda thunk? :0

No, thanks for that. I always wondered if there are actual 'fixed' indicators on the Star Destroyer that says "here be windows". I know that give the scale even the finest fiber optic would be WAY too big for 'actual' windows so it's more about the image and effect.

And Robiwon has done an excellent job there.


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Thanks guys. Steve, for the most it's all freehand drilling. No reference pics were used. There are some "bumps" that look like they would have windows. But again, I mainly drilled where it looked "right".

It's done. Stand by for pictures.....


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

This has been a great primer on lighting this kit...


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## robiwon2 (Jun 26, 2016)

Thanks, I'm glad this thread has been of some use to others....


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