# New to Controllers



## Nightshade (Jan 15, 2006)

Hi all,

I am just starting up and was wondering about controllers and transformers vs. wall power packs.

My layout is landscaped (hills, pond, tressel, buildings, etc.) and I am going with mostly street rods (JL Fast & Furious) and a couple NASCARs vs. Formula type cars.

I am still using the power pack and controllers that came with my first set (Big Block Battlers), but was wondering if the Econo Parma is all I need or if I should move up a step....is it a big difference for a guy with a mid to large 2 lane track set-up on a 4x8 board? 

If so, would the Parma 315 (or lower ohm resistor) work ok or should I stick around the 316 range?

How about wall packs vs. transformers...at what point should one veer away from the wall pack, or am I really not going to need the power with a 4x8 layout?

Sorry for all the questions. I don't mean to be a dweeb. Just born that way...ask my wife! 

Thanks for any help.

Mike


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Mike, welcome to the board and good to hear you are running some slots. If you are running with the stock set controllers and power packs and everything is working well then you can stick with that setup. The biggest differences between a Parma controller and the set controller is the Parma is much sturdier, smoother, sized better to an adult hand, available in different resistance values, and wired for brakes. The set controller on the other hand has the plug that docks into the Tomy terminal track, a rather convenient feature. If you buy a Parma and want to plug it into your Tomy terminals you'll have to solder the Tomy controller plug on to the Parma white and black wires and leave the brake unconnected. You don't have brakes now so you won't miss them. Standard brakes are really only useful with TJets. If you do get a Parma a 60 ohm unit is probably a good compromise for the cars you mentioned. If you want to run TJets a 90 ohm unit would be better for them but will be a little sluggish for the Super G-Plus cars. That just means you'll be pulling the trigger more to get the car up to speed, but it won't limit the top speed at all.


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## Nightshade (Jan 15, 2006)

Hey thanks AfxToo!!

So, that leads into another question...

What are the predominant cars being used out there? I know it's probably got a lot to do with the taste of the individual but I was wondering, if a person isn't into the formula racing scene, what is the most common brand.

This is coming from a person who thinks the Super G+ cars that came with his set seem ok....

Btw, AfxToo....I looked at your gallery. Nice pics! What do you use for your rocky terrain?

Again, thanks all! This is a very nice website. Glad I happened upon it!

Mike


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## Manning (Mar 2, 2004)

Re: controllers......Parma econos are good. I have two 90 ohm units for the TJets and Xtracs. But, like AFXToo mentioned, they are not the best for the inline motored cars like the SG+. A 45 ohm works much better for those cars. I do agree that a 60 ohm would be a good comprimise. However, if you have basic wiring and soldering skills, making a controller with adjustable resistance is not difficult. My 90 ohm econo controllers have a switch that can put a 200 ohm resistor in parallel with the 90, turning it into a 60 ohm. I also have done the same with a 45 ohm Parma Plus, which has a 32 ohm setting (100 ohm in parallel). 

Re: Wall warts vs. power supply. A power supply is the best way, but one wall wart per lane works quite well. Wall warts are much cheaper than a power supply. However, an adjustable voltage power supply would be great for slowing down cars that are too much for the driver to control (kids that are used to computer games....).

SG+ cars are.......really, really fast. In my experience, the only other car that is close is the Tomy SRT. Tyco 440x2's can be made to get close. Pancake motored cars are wayyyyy slower, but just as fun.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Mike, there's a large number of different types of cars out there. It's one of the things that make HO so much fun. There's really too much to put in one reply, but if you like street cars and NASCAR and don't want to pay for museum pieces $$$ - then take a look at the Johnny Lightning TJets and X-Tractions for conventional low downforce slippin' & slidin' cars. There are few NASCAR bodies available on these cars (other than a few 70s models) but there is a healthy aftermarket of custom resin cast NASCAR bodies designed to fit on these chassis.

For a faster box stock racing style look for Life-Like, Tyco/Mattel, and Tomy Turbo, SRT, and Super G+ sedans. As far as NASCAR goes, the Tyco/Mattel versions are about the best looking, the Life-Likes have authentic markings but bodies that may be "off" a bit, and Tomy has a few that have authentic NASCAR markings (from the 90s mostly). These are all magnet traction cars but most of the Tomy bodies will also fit on the Johnny Lightning XT chassis and vise versa. 

If you have Tomy Super G-Plus open wheel cars that came with your set you can convert them to mount sedan bodies by purchasing a Tomy body clip at a hobby store or online from somewhere like www.ScaleAuto.com. They are about $1.00 each. The Johnny Lightning Fast & Furious bodies will mount on the SG+ chassis with the clip in place. You may have to move the front axle to the further back set of holes. Moving the front axle won't affect your ability to put the open wheel bodies back on the SG+ w/o the clip. They work in either position but look a little better in the long wheelbase configuration.

Take a look here for some more examples: http://www.hoslotcars.com/slotcars.html

In organized racing the most popular magnet cars are the Wizzard Storm, BSRT Super G3, and the Slottech ThunderCat. These cars are specifically designed for racing and are generally run on tracks sitting on 4x12 or larger tables. They generally run with lexan bodies and are extremely fun to race. 

I made my terrain from foam insulation. It's still a work in progress but I'll post some more pictures soon, once I get the guard rails painted, installed, and plant about 100 trees and install about a dozen billboards made from 5.25" drive bay blanking plates.


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## Nightshade (Jan 15, 2006)

Manning,

Thanks for the info...

It may be just me...but it seems that my ignorance gains more depth as each reply is made, hehe.

Ok....where do I learn the jargon you guys use? Any books out there that someone would like to recommend? Pancake motors? Inline motors? I mean....I'm a Mechanical Engineer and have a good grasp of engineering principles.....but this slot car business is like a brand new world to me....which is cool, btw. I've been bitten and have _seriously_ got the bug!

So....I really like the look of the JL Fast and Furious cars and that style of car will work well with my landscape design (country and buildings vs. race track...although I do like the look of the Life-Like NASCAR's too). And I am purchasing a couple JL's tonight. What are they? Pancake? Waffle? Inline?Straight six? All I know is that they are X-traction vs. MagnaTraction (but don't ask me to state the differences of each!).

I guess I need a power/controller set-up that will work with both the SG+, the JL Fast&Furious, and the Life-Like NASCAR's....Anyone like to take a shot at that for me? Anyone? Anyone?  

I have also seen a couple posts about putting a wall wart on each lane....how does THAT work? Do I have to add a second terminal section and somehow cut into them to separate the two-laner connection?

As for my soldering skills....I did some of that when I was a PLC programmer, but now I'm a production/operations manager.....and we all know that when one goes into management all common sense and hands-on skills go right out the window! But I might be able to drum up some equipment from the electricians in our maintenance department!  

I should have titled my thread "Moldable Clay.....Bring out the Slot Car lurking in every guy!" :thumbsup:


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Mike, don't sweat it. Slot cars are a lifelong hobby. Your journey is just starting and it never ends. The JLs are all pancake motor powered. Open them up and you'll see why they have that name. Or Google for "pancake motor."


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## zanza (Sep 23, 2005)

*One good site for learning*

Nightshade, just do a visit of THIS WEBSITE FOR NEWBEES . It's pretty informative if my memory serves well (unfortunately, if you're on macintosh like I am, this site will not work under Safari but should under Firefox)


I maintain always a good bunch of regularly visited and working links on MY WEBSITE. All these site are really informative and you'll learn a lot.....And forgive my english speaking, but it's not my main language, so my answers are sometimes "special" but always understandable.


Welcome to the HO World of Fun.... or as wifey could saying " this plastic cars that squeals..."


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## Manning (Mar 2, 2004)

Pancake motor = armature is shaped somewhat like a pancake. Armature shaft is vertical in the car, and the laminations are very large in diameter, but thin. There are many gears (5 or 6) to transfer the power from the armature to the rear wheels. Tjets, Tuff ones, magna tractions, and x tractions are all pancakes. These cars have little to no magnetic downforce compared to most inline motor cars, especially the Tomy SG+ and SRT. The low downforce lets them slide before deslotting. Fun to drive, nowhere near as fast. 

Inline motor = conventional dc electric motor armature. Shaft is horizontal in car. Is fairly small in diameter, but many laminations. Only has two gears, a pinion and spur gear. 440x2, SG+, SRT, Turbo, etc. are inlines. These cars typically have high magnetic downforce, which doesn't allow for much sliding before deslotting. 

Re: the "universal controller" that works well with all cars. I don't think one exists that is economical. Professor Motor has recently come out with one that may be a true "one size fits all" controller, but it's $120, and hasn't been available long. It may be the holy grail, but I'm going to let somebody else try it first.......


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## Nightshade (Jan 15, 2006)

Who-wahh!

Looks like I have some good reading material ahead of me tonight. Many thanks to all who replied.

It looks like I'll be using both SG+ (I don't have open wheel designs) and x-traction chassis, depending on if I want to be fast and sometimes reach orbit capability or be slower and stay on the track yet perform some slip-n-slide action.

Thanks for the info on the NASCAR bodies. I liked the detail on the Life-Like cars, but noticed the odd shape of the bodies. I'll go with the other ones.

Take care and again, thanks!

Mike


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Yeah, Gregory Braun has done a great service to HO slot car racing worldwide with that site. It's a great soup to nuts reference, but always be searching and discovering things on your own too. There is really no "how-to" manual for enjoying slot cars, it's a "learn as you go" experience. At some point the smell of fresh red oil fumes and ozone coming off a TJet will be one of the sweetest aromas you can imagine and the perfect tone of finely lapped brass gears will sound like music. And yes, it's definately a lot more fun than ladder logic programming.


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## zanza (Sep 23, 2005)

AFXToo is a poet..... 

Ahhh the smell of melting oil LOL 

Don't know why, but it reminds me quotes of Col. Kurz in the jungle


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## okracer (Mar 11, 2002)

anyone ever tryed or thought of trying to make a quick change type controler by takeing a parma controler and figureing out a way to change the resitor without soldering just pull it out and put in the resistor you need to run with


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## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Nightshade, 

For a diagram on how to install one wallpack per lane using Tomy terminal tracks, go to the "Power" section at www.hoslotcarracing.com


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

okracer said:


> anyone ever tryed or thought of trying to make a quick change type controler by takeing a parma controler and figureing out a way to change the resitor without soldering just pull it out and put in the resistor you need to run with


SCX (Scalextric) made a handle that used snap-in resistor modules, why it never took off for them or was grasped by any other scale is beyond me, I thought it was a great idea. My guess is that with the falling price of mass-produced electronic controllers, no one sees a market for it.


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## Macs_Little_Car (Oct 25, 2003)

And where can you get these Parma controllers or other style for HO tracks??

Thanks

Rob


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## *MAYHEM* (May 4, 2007)

Afx made an adjustable controller for a while, i used one for years and still have it. It has two resistors, one with the standard trigger/wiper on the right side and another that worked off a knob on the left side. Resistance was adjustable from about 35 ohms to around 60 ohms. It also came wired for brakes. I consider it the perfect controller for the basic home layout powered by wall warts. It will handle anything from stock t-jets up to modified Super G+. I know I've seen an online store that carried them recently but damned if I can find it now.

Edit: found it: Control Plus Controller 

At $14 it's a bargain. may get a couple more myself.


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## Macs_Little_Car (Oct 25, 2003)

Thank you, I will try those... probably wreck a few cars in the learning process, but, hey, they'll make more!! :lol:


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