# Model # 13AM670G088 MTD riding lawn mower no start



## 1930 (Apr 14, 2013)

Mower did not start when it was given to me, I had to start with a jumper box connected positive side directly on starter and negative onto frame, since then I have replaced the battery and the rusty/nasty starting solenoid hoping this would fix the ignition issue, turn the key and still no start. 

I do not want to start throwing parts at it that are un-needed and know there is a logical approach to figuring out what might be the issue. These lawnmowers from what I have been learning have all sorts of shut offs in place evidently for safety. 

Can anyone help with figuring out what I should be looking at next.....I have twelve volts going to switch but am at a loss beyond checking that. Thanks


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## chuck_thehammer (Oct 24, 2007)

most of the time.. the safety switch(s) complete the ground circuit for the starter relay (solenoid)

seat switch, PTO (blade engagement), deck down. clutch in.

most of the time the switch just needs cleaning. sanding of contacts.

being extra careful. you could jump one at a time. but try cleaning the switch FIRST.


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## 1930 (Apr 14, 2013)

chuck_thehammer said:


> most of the time.. the safety switch(s) complete the ground circuit for the starter relay (solenoid)
> 
> seat switch, PTO (blade engagement), deck down. clutch in.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply, I was incorrect in that it will start with the switch, would not before but now that I have jumped it off again and driven it around the yard it will engage the starter although it will not spin it fast enough to start without jumping from my car battery to the new battery. 

I am questioning why all the batteries ( Interstate ) at home Depot have very little water in them, I checked them all! I doubt this is the problem but I am sure its something that needs to be corrected just the same, I am assuming the water needs to be filled up just like a car battery to the appropriate line within the battery, sound correct? 

What is going to be my nest approach to checking the charging system, I asked around about it at different mower shops yesterday since I see no alt nor Gen hanging off the engine and they said alternator is under the flywheel? 

That sounds like a pain in the butt and expensive!

Any thought?


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## chuck_thehammer (Oct 24, 2007)

Batteries ARE to be filled to the upper mark...

the lower the water is the less power the battery has...

there are charging coils under the flywheel and a voltage regulator near the battery.. bad grounds and bad connections cause most of the problems...


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Not trying to say Chuck isn't correct, he is. I want to point out information about new batteries...
Please don't add water to a brand-new battery if it's low. If a new battery is low it means it wasn't activated properly. The plates have cardboard separators that absorb the electrolyte, and the proper method is to fill it, leave the cell covers off (else pressure can develop) cover the cell filler necks with a rag, charge it, let it cool and top it off. If *new* batteries on the shelf are low, and you add water, you're diluting the electrolyte. I've activated countless batteries this way.

Water (distilled) is added to a used battery as water can boil off over time, but the acid does not so the balance in the electrolyte remains the same when you top it off with water.

IT'S RARE you find a serviceable battery these days, BUT to PROPERLY check one you need a *HYDROMETER*, something I haven't used or seen in years. The number 1275 sounds familiar, you'll have to do some research. I kind of remember something like more than 50 points between cells would indicate a bad battery...do some online digging.


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## 1930 (Apr 14, 2013)

Thanks for the tips, I plan to contact interstate dist and hear what they have to say about all the low batteries being sold at this particular H.D. 

I am prob. wasting my time but its my time to waste


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