# Rob's Flying Sub-o-rama!



## Carson Dyle

_Dang_ this is a fun kit to work on!

I’m not planning to incorporate many “fixes” into the model because so far as I can tell it doesn’t require them.

That said, I did elect to fill in those seams on the lower hull to more closely match the large “hero” FX miniature. I understand why Moebius included pre-scribed access panels (heck, I applaud them for it, because they would have been a _pain_ to scribe), but for whatever reason I found them distracting. Sometimes less is more, ya know?











Like most injection-molded kits, the Moebius FS has its share of little dips, bumps, and other production-related imperfections in the plastic. On the hull halves these are mostly to be found running along the outer edges. Fortunately they’re very subtle and can easily taken care of with a little bit of medium-grade sanding.

It took a few coats of primer and several medium-to-light sanding passes to arrive at a suitably smooth surface.











The issue “lower fin droop” has been discussed elsewhere on this forum. My understanding is that the Moebius FS is accurate to the 18-inch FX miniature (having been scanned from it), but since I’m basing my model on the 36-incher I decided to file down the fins to more closely adhere to the profile of the hull.











Replacement lamp cages were fashioned from “chicken wire” found at a home improvement store (courtesy of GKvfx). These will eventually be set into thin rings cut from styrene tubing and then placed over the lamp lenses.




















Just for the heck of it I snapped off a shot of the 1/35 Moebius model sitting next to the 1/16 Rick Teskey version I’m working on. You can never have too many Flying Subs (just ask Admiral Nelson).


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## Steve244

this place is turning into a subapalooza! I feel no pity for the figure guys. :thumbsup:


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## falcon49xxxx

outstandig build,Rob,as usual.........


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## Seaview

Thanks for the inspiration to fill in the claw and landing gear hatch lines, Mr. Dyle. IMHO, they distract from the smoothness of this fine craft, and are a relatively simple fix. :thumbsup:


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## GKvfx

Rob's gonna need a bigger bathtub when he finishes these........

Gene


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## steve123

Thanks for the pics! 
When I didn't see you here on Sun. I knew you was bizzy!

Nice work.

Steve


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## WEAPON X

Rob, Thank you for this inspiring work and your photos! :thumbsup:

I look forward towards both your 1/32 and 1/16 FS1 project completion.


- Ben


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## Captain Han Solo

Very,very Nice Indeed Rob!


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## Carson Dyle

Thanks, guys. Like I said, this thing is a blast to build.

Question for Gary K (or anyone else who may know): Were the circular docking seals similarly raised on the large FX miniature (as opposed to being flush with the hull)?


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## Lloyd Collins

Rob, it is looking real fine! 
I was wondering about your other FS.

I like the lamp cages idea. You called it chicken wire, but it looks like hardware cloth, as I have always heard it called, am I right?


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## Carson Dyle

Lloyd Collins said:


> You called it chicken wire, but it looks like hardware cloth, as I have always heard it called, am I right?


Yeah, I get my wire meshes confused.


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## falcon49xxxx

Carson Dyle said:


> Thanks, guys. Like I said, this thing is a blast to build.
> 
> Question for Gary K (or anyone else who may know): Were the circular docking seals similarly raised on the large FX miniature (as opposed to being flush with the hull)?


I was wondering that myself,I'm working on a Monogram FS,and would like to know.


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## Carson Dyle

Gary was kind enough to forward a couple pix of the 36-incher for reference, along with the following explanation...

_"To answer your question, yes, the docking rings were slightly raised. The lower docking ring on the Moebius kit is a decent representation of what the rings are supposed to look like (at least, as decent as you can get when you're trying to describe it to people halfway across the world)."_



















Correct me if I'm wrong Gary, but in addition to the model shown above wasn't there also a large (36") FS used for flying shots that didn't have all those functional hatches and openings in the bottom? Assuming the answer is yes, did it also sport slightly raised docking seals?


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## Gary K

Carson Dyle said:


> Thanks, guys. Like I said, this thing is a blast to build.
> 
> Question for Gary K (or anyone else who may know): Were the circular docking seals similarly raised on the large FX miniature (as opposed to being flush with the hull)?


The lower docking ring on the 36" studio model with claws & landing gear was slightly raised, and the lower ring on the Moebius kit is a decent representation of it. The height of the upper ring is maybe a hair lower. Not surprisingly, the heights of the upper & lower rings on the two 36-inchers I've seen are all slightly different, due to individual variations in the thickness of the cast rings and the size/shape of the upper & lower wells, into which the rings are screwed. On the Moebius kit, you'll need to add a little sheet styrene filler to the underside of the upper ring so it doesn't sit quite so low in its recess.

Off the top of my head, I'm not sure about the rings on the 9" & 18" studio models, but if past experience is any judge, one version will have recessed rings, and the other will have flush rings!

Carson - I've seen two of the 36" studio models: the "flying" model at Bob Burns' and the "claws & wheels" version, which is in the hands of a private collector (not Greg Jein). I had no idea re. the location of the hero 36-incher (prominently featured in "The Silent Saboteurs"), but I wish I did!

Gary


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## Carson Dyle

Gary K said:


> On the Moebius kit, you'll need to add a little sheet styrene filler to the underside of the upper ring so it doesn't sit quite so low in its recess.


My homework for the evening. 

Thanks, Gary. Based on the above I plan to fit my Teskey FS with slightly raised docking rings.


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## megabot11

There was also another version of the 36" FS mini where the docking ring is flush,( actually painted onto the Hull.) the front cockpit windows were also painted in, I'm not too sure but I think that it may have been used for rear filming shots or distant shots.

also the close up front shot shows the raised ring as well,

One question I have is about the incanted search light cages,on the 36" Mini. That is , they seem to stick out at the edges, and go inward. Apart from the screen caps can this be varified? If so I will incorporate this to the Moebius model.


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## Gary K

megabot11 said:


> One question I have is about the incanted search light cages,on the 36" Mini. That is , they seem to stick out at the edges, and go inward. Apart from the screen caps can this be varified? If so I will incorporate this to the Moebius model.


The searchlights on the Flying Subs were made the same way as the searchlight on the Seaview: they were milled from acrylic rod, with a convex front end, and a light bulb was affixed to the end inside the model. The rods were generally parallel to one another, and pointed straight ahead. Because the front bulkhead of the model was slanted, more of the outboard portion of each light rod was visible. In short, the outboard sides of the lights were "outies", while the inboard sides were "innies".

Gary


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## Carson Dyle

megabot11 said:


> One question I have is about the incanted search light cages,on the 36" Mini. That is , they seem to stick out at the edges, and go inward.





Gary K said:


> Because the front bulkhead of the model was slanted, more of the outboard portion of each light rod was visible. In short, the outboard sides of the lights were "outies", while the inboard sides were "innies".


Good eye, megabot11. I'd never noticed these particular characteristics before, but I may well incorporate the deeper-on-the-outboard-side lamp cages into my build.

Another interesting thing about the cages shown above is that the horizontal bar clearly overlaps the vertical bar (as opposed to both bars converging evenly in the center).


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## Gary K

Carson Dyle said:


> Good eye, megabot11. I'd never noticed these particular characteristics before, but I may well incorporate the deeper-on-the-outboard-side lamp cages into my build.
> 
> Another interesting thing about the cages shown above is that the horizontal bar clearly overlaps the vertical bar (as opposed to both bars converging evenly in the center).


To add to the fun, the cages were arranged in an "X" pattern on some of the Flying Subs models, and in a "+" pattern on others. I went with a "+" pattern on the Moebius kit because that's what the studio plans show.

Gary


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## megabot11

Thanks Gary For the varification . I did a somewhat crude diagram of what you described. would this be correct?

Fantastic job on the FS Rob!!

Mike


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## Gary K

megabot11 said:


> Thanks Gary For the varification . I did a somewhat crude diagram of what you described. would this be correct?


Yep, that's the idea. On the "claws & wheels" model, the inboard sides of the lights were slightly recessed into the front bulkhead, while the outboard sides extended slightly beyond the bulkhead.

Gary


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## Lloyd Collins

Thanks for the info, Gary and megabot11. 

I have collected alot of screen grabs of the FS, I need to pay more attention to them.

I have yet to spot them, but which episodes are the claws and wheels seen in. The first I knew of them, were the photos in Seaview Soundings.


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## Carson Dyle

Gary K said:


> To add to the fun, the cages were arranged in an "X" pattern on some of the Flying Subs models, and in a "+" pattern on others.


Did the "X" version ever appear onscreen, or could that configuration be attributed to after-the-fact "restoration" misalignment?


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## Captain Han Solo

Lloyd Collins said:


> Thanks for the info, Gary and megabot11.
> 
> I have collected alot of screen grabs of the FS, I need to pay more attention to them.
> 
> I have yet to spot them, but which episodes are the claws and wheels seen in. The first I knew of them, were the photos in Seaview Soundings.


 
The Flying Sub's articulated claw is shown in only two episodes.
Both are from the fourth season
"Cave of the Dead"(First Aired, Otober,8,1967)
"Man-Beast"(First Aired, Feb18,1968)

The landing gear was *NEVER SHOWN.*
*It is Implied in several episodes that the Flying Sub could land on a 'Hard surface", But due to limited Budget, etc..They never filmed it.*


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## Steve244

beatlepaul said:


> The Flying Sub's articulated claw is shown in only two episodes.
> Both are from the fourth season
> "Cave of the Dead"(First Aired, Otober,8,1967)
> "Man-Beast"(First Aired, Feb18,1968)
> 
> The landing gear was *NEVER SHOWN.*
> *It is Implied in several episodes that the Flying Sub could land on a 'Hard surface", But due to limited Budget, etc..They never filmed it.*


The landing gear make a cameo appearance in "Cave of the Dead" when they make an ocean bottom landing (bottoming?)...






How 'bout them dryer hose controls?!


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## Gary K

Carson Dyle said:


> Did the "X" version ever appear onscreen, or could that configuration be attributed to after-the-fact "restoration" misalignment?


The only appearance of the "claws & wheels" Flying Sub was in the 4th season episode "Cave of the Dead" (although the footage was reused in "Man-Beast"). The DVDs of these episodes have not yet been released, but you can view the sequence on YouTube here: 



.

Beatlepaul - the main landing gear IS visible in this clip, albeit murkily. The oversized main wheels were geared to rotate into a horizontal position, to serve as landing pads on the ocean floor. With the gear extended, Crane sets the FS onto the ocean floor with a thud. While the FS is elevated above the seabed, Sharkey deploys the claws and snags the end of the diving bell cable.

Rob - I checked my close-up pics of the "claws & wheels" model, and both headlight cages are built to be positioned in an "X" orientation (with two short legs and two long legs on each cage). On the YouTube clip, though, it appears that the stbd cage is in the "X" position, while the port cage is in the "+" position. Go figure! Hopefully, we'll get clearer views of the cages when the DVDs are released. 

Conclusion: you can orient the cages any which way you please!

Gary


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## starseeker

Mega: wondering about your 00012 view above. Aside from trying to figure out which fs mini had which wingtips, there is also a real difference in the top front hull curvature between the minis. I thought the 36" seems to have had a relatively gentle curve as outlined by the top front wing slats. The blueprints and the Aurora kit show a much smaller radius and more steeply curved slats, as your first post does. I've only ever noticed it on the show in some flight sequences and thought it was the 18" (assuming they ever flew the 18"). Do you think your 00012 is the 18 or the 36?
(Amazing: I watched that sequence a couple months ago to check out the claw and never noticed the landing gear. I think my head was just spinning in too much disbelief. [Trying to figure out the color of the inside of the panel above the drivers of the Chariot so I watched a couple bits of Space Primevals from LIS yesterday (speaking of head spinning in disbelief). But the cave men were using one of the Flying Subs translucent floor panels as a drum. Sigh. Really nice close up, tho.] Did that clip come from the episode with the beautiful shot from behind the Seaview with the FS sailing off forward? There were some great effects.)


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## Gary K

starseeker said:


> I watched a couple bits of Space Primevals from LIS yesterday (speaking of head spinning in disbelief). But the cave men were using one of the Flying Subs translucent floor panels as a drum. Sigh. Really nice close up, tho.


Fox apparently had a boatload of the those panels, leftover from the Shrink-o-matic machine in "Fantastic Voyage". Since Uncle Irwin never saw a prop he couldn't reuse, another of those panels served as the round, lighted panel in the floor of the Jupiter 2's elevator.

Gary


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## Captain Han Solo

Gary K said:


> The only appearance of the "claws & wheels" Flying Sub was in the 4th season episode "Cave of the Dead" (although the footage was reused in "Man-Beast"). The DVDs of these episodes have not yet been released, but you can view the sequence on YouTube here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2nzDyQEgoM.
> 
> Beatlepaul - the main landing gear IS visible in this clip, albeit murkily. The oversized main wheels were geared to rotate into a horizontal position, to serve as landing pads on the ocean floor. With the gear extended, Crane sets the FS onto the ocean floor with a thud. While the FS is elevated above the seabed, Sharkey deploys the claws and snags the end of the diving bell cable.
> 
> Rob - I checked my close-up pics of the "claws & wheels" model, and both headlight cages are built to be positioned in an "X" orientation (with two short legs and two long legs on each cage). On the YouTube clip, though, it appears that the stbd cage is in the "X" position, while the port cage is in the "+" position. Go figure! Hopefully, we'll get clearer views of the cages when the DVDs are released.
> 
> Conclusion: you can orient the cages any which way you please!
> 
> Gary


 

*OOOPS!*
*Gentlemen, I stand corrected, You can kinda see the "Landing Gear" there..somewhat*

*Thanks for the clip!*
*I am looking forward to the fourth season being released later this Month(I think)*


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## spocks beard

WOW, Thanks for the you tube clip there! This is the first time i have seen the claws and landing gear actually shown, All but briefly.I have seasons 1 through 3, And i read season 4 volume 1 will be released sometime this year.beatle paul i hope you are correct about the release date sir.:thumbsup:


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## jbond

Ah yes, I remember the shock when I noticed the landing gear in that shot...what's even better is when you can glimpse the big car headlight in there that would have filled up the bulk of the interior...


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## Wbnemo1

big headlight..it sure does ... takes up the whole area top to bottom
Will


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## bert model maker

Great thread, Good information !


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## starseeker

Just fast fwdd thru some 4th season episodes. I must have fast reversed through Cave the first time. It Is the episode with the great shot from behind the Seaview, but the FS is approaching it, not leaving it. (Scanning at fast speeds in either direction is the only way anyone could watch these episodes, and fwd or reverse makes absolutely no difference to the plots.) But there is some great fx footage that season. I swear it looks like the Seaview posted above dropping the FS has frames around its windows but it is most likely artifacts. That Seaview does have the 17' limber holes. It will be really interesting to see what a super clear DVD will show of the miniatures. 
One surprise even from my old VHS is fx footage of a miniature on the surface. I slowed it to have a look at the great weathering all over the miniature, esp under the deck and limber holes and around the sonar domes and realized later that this Seaview's top and hull color was a light gray. I'm going to have to find the shot again. But that adds yet a new color scheme into the mix.
Please, scan some of those photos from Seaview Soundings #3. Between #2 and #3 must have been when I decided to give up my fan boy ways. Little did I know Moebius would happen 20 years later.


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## Steve244

starseeker said:


> Scanning at fast speeds in either direction is the only way anyone could watch these episodes, and fwd or reverse makes absolutely no difference to the plots.


heh. great review. I feel the same way about most of IA's stuff. Funny it never affected me that way as a kid.


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## Seaview

megabot11 said:


> There was also another version of the 36" FS mini where the docking ring is flush,( actually painted onto the Hull.) the front cockpit windows were also painted in, I'm not too sure but I think that it may have been used for rear filming shots or distant shots.


 
Just for clarification sake, the 36" FS mini with painted windows also had it's lower docking ring flush with the lower hull.
Considering that the bow windows were painted on, I'm going to advance the theory that this was the version used for the famous "splash-in from the sky" footage.


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## megabot11

Hi starseeker 

The Pic-capture which you refer to is most definitely the 36" mini. one clear give away apart from the hull contour is the huge bulky top docking hatch that was a signature for the 18 " mini. Moebius took the best of both mini's and added the 36" hatch design for it's great model. Which BTW I'm still sadly waiting for...Waaaah! Anyhow.

I've put together a few shots to show the distinction between the three minis.The last two being the 36" 

I'm actually coming to the limit of images that I can upload so you can go here
to see more.

http://www.freewebs.com/scifivehiclevault/index.htm


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## Lloyd Collins

Thanks, Beatlepaul for the episode names.

Gary, I think I will wait for the DVDs, to see the gear. I don't want to spoil my fun. As for the headlight cages, every screen grab so far shows it as +, no matter which size I view, so I will go that way.


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## Gary K

Lloyd Collins said:


> Gary, I think I will wait for the DVDs, to see the gear. I don't want to spoil my fun. As for the headlight cages, every screen grab so far shows it as +, no matter which size I view, so I will go that way.


Like I said, the Moebius kit has the cages as +, since the studio plans show them that way, so a + orientation is fine for your model. My head is spinning from trying to document all the discrepancies between the various FS models. Just for grins, head over to Phil Broad's site (at http://cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/FlyingSub/FlyingSubTop.htm ), where you can see the headlight cages in an X orientation. As you can see in close-ups, the cages were constructed to be that way (at least, on that model).

My brain hurts!

Gary


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## jbond

I love the comparison photos above--really shows you what Moebius was up against.


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## Carson Dyle

jbond said:


> I love the comparison photos above--really shows you what Moebius was up against.


I'll say. By comparison TOS Enterprise model manufacturers and builders had it easy.

Fortunately for Gary and Moebius there were only a couple of Spindrift FX miniatures to contend with (Uh-oh... ... did I say that out loud)?


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## Gary K

Carson Dyle said:


> I'll say. By comparison TOS Enterprise model manufacturers and builders had it easy.


Oh, I dunno about that. Buy me a couple drinks at Wonderfest and I'll tell you a few stories...



Carson Dyle said:


> Fortunately for Gary and Moebius there were only a couple of Spindrift FX miniatures to contend with (Uh-oh... ... did I say that out loud)?


Dream on, you kit-assembler! Now I'll stand back while Dave Metzner smites you....

Gary


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## Lloyd Collins

Rob, I didn't hear what you said, maybe if you shouted!

The way models varied from scene to scene, it is hard to make sense of it all. I'm glad all of you are doing it for me. I can leave the pills in the bottle.


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## Carson Dyle

Gary K said:


> Buy me a couple drinks at Wonderfest and I'll tell you a few stories...


It's a date!


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## Mark Dorais

megabot11 said:


> Hi starseeker
> 
> The Pic-capture which you refer to is most definitely the 36" mini. one clear give away apart from the hull contour is the huge bulky top docking hatch that was a signature for the 18 " mini. Moebius took the best of both mini's and added the 36" hatch design for it's great model. Which BTW I'm still sadly waiting for...Waaaah! Anyhow.
> 
> I've put together a few shots to show the distinction between the three minis.The last two being the 36"
> 
> I'm actually coming to the limit of images that I can upload so you can go here
> to see more.
> 
> http://www.freewebs.com/scifivehiclevault/index.htm


It seems to me that the 36inch version has a slightly more, for lack of a better word, humped contour on the "beaked" portion of the upper hull above the cockpit in SIDE profile than the 18 inch model


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## Captain Han Solo

Mark Dorais said:


> It seems to me that the 36inch version has a slightly more, for lack of a better word, humped contour on the "beaked" portion of the upper hull above the cockpit in SIDE profile than the 18 inch model


 
Hey Mark!!!!

Not to go off topic in this cool thread,But I got to say *I love your Paintings Sir:thumbsup::thumbsup:*
*Fantastic Work!!!!!!*


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## starseeker

Mark Dorais said:


> It seems to me that the 36inch version has a slightly more, for lack of a better word, humped contour on the "beaked" portion of the upper hull above the cockpit in SIDE profile than the 18 inch model


One of them did, for sure. I always thought it was a smaller one (esp the 9 or 10"), as it doesn't seem to show up on the main underwater FS that much. However, it's really obvious in the airborne FS. Which was the 36", I think. So maybe both the 9 and 36?


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## Lou Dalmaso

could that hump been part of the flying rig?

just curious


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## megabot11

consistency was certainly not part of the IA universe.

The 9" resembled the 18" more, in that the hull drops down right from the center docking ring area,

http://www.uncleodiescollectibles.com/html_lib/voyage-props/00007.html

where as the hull extends slightly then drops on the 36" giving it the Hump or Frankensteinish look.

All flying sequences were shot with the 36" (so far as I know)

the only other shots that were used with the 9" mini were when it lands on the hull of the damaged Sub ( EP the Monster's Web) and some new shots in season 4 where we see a back view of Seaview and the flying sub returning to the launch bay ( not inside Seaview as that particular Mini wasn't rigged for launching sequences)


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## Antimatter

Do the pinstripe lines go from front to back on top? The rasied part stops near the hatch ring.


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## Carson Dyle

Antimatter said:


> Do the pinstripe lines go from front to back on top?


Yes, the blue stripes extend all the way from stem to stern.


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## Antimatter

Ok Carson, get off your butt and get building and posting those pictures. I'm trying to keep up with my own build.


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## Antimatter

The FS1 picture is not a true yellow. Any idea what color would best match that? Like a between yellow and orange.


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## Antimatter

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/category.php?sub-id=61500

Tamiya color TS-64 Dark Mica Blue matches the blue on the FS1. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=85064


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## falcon49xxxx

check my blog for colors.


http://falcondesigns.blogspot.com/


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## Wbnemo1

That's bad lighting in that pic, it's yellow, then in the "shadow's it's shaded with orange, at least on the 36" mini I've seen. I mentioned the colors needed to replicate the 36" one are Blue Angels' blue and yellow, pretty much a match for the mini
Cheers,
Will


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## Carson Dyle

Antimatter said:


> Ok Carson, get off your butt and get building and posting those pictures.


Here come the weekend, baby! :woohoo:

I schlepped out to Burbank House of Hobbies today to scope out some colors for the exterior. As you can see from the shots below, it can be a bit tricky to nail down an exact color match for the hull and accent colors…




























Hopefully Gary K will chime in with his “expert” opinion, but in the meantime I’ve found a couple of shades of blue and yellow in the Tamiya lacquer spraypaint line which wouldn’t suck in a pinch.

I know there are a lot of brands out there to choose from, but I’ve gotten great results from Tamiya in the past, and I just love the way the stuff lays down (I can hear Merriman’s teeth gnashing from here, lol. Don’t worry Dave, I’ll use the high-end DuPont auto stuff on my big Teskey model).

Tamiya TS47 Chrome Yellow is pretty close to “Moebius FS Styrene,Yellow,” but I’m thinking it might be a little canary/lemony for my taste…









Tamiya TS34 Camel Yellow has a touch more orange that, to my eye, more closely matches the miniature as it appears onscreen…









TS50 Blue Mica has a great hue, but the shade might be a bit light….









TS51 Racing Blue is darker, but the hue might be a bit too vibrant….









I plan to lay down some test strips tomorrow to see what the stuff actually looks like in action. Stay tuned!


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## Carson Dyle

Speaking of DuPont Auto Lacquer, these are the shades I had mixed for my Teskey sub...










I'm one of those guys who likes his retro-riffic Irwin Allen vehicles to sport a blatantly screen-inaccurate new car GLEAM, and boy does that Chroma system do the trick. The only drawbacks are price, availability, ease of use (or lack thereof), and the fact that the fumes will melt your brain _real_ fast.

Still, if you're willing to go to the trouble and expense, auto lacquers provide an amazingly smooth and even finish.

This shot of Dave Merriman’s Rick Teskey FS will give you some idea of the sort of finish I’m talking about. Is that thing sweet, or what?










If only Dave hadn't made his forward windows wider at the top than they are at the bottom. But I digress....


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## Wbnemo1

as normal a light as can get here...Blue angel's blue and same with yellow...off to the left the subtle orange shading
Cheers,
Will


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## Carson Dyle

Thanks, Will.

Yeah, that blue isn't as dark as some shots seem to suggest. Blue Angels Blue is right.

Thanks to the original issue Aurora box art, I went for _years_ thinking those pinstripes were black. Now I know better. :wave:


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## Wbnemo1

http://www.vectorsite.net/Yaa4c_2b.jpg check that for the Blue...and yep, that's my favorite Aircraft for the Blues..use to know several of the pilots for those and their next line back, the beautiful F4's
Cheers,
Will


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## falcon49xxxx

yellow.............orange...........?


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## Wbnemo1

I'm gonna retract the yellow color being blue angels, it should be more of a canary yellow color with the orange shading in the "shadows"
Will


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## Gary K

Carson Dyle said:


> Hopefully Gary K will chime in with his “expert” opinion, but in the meantime I’ve found a couple of shades of blue and yellow in the Tamiya lacquer spraypaint line which wouldn’t suck in a pinch.


I've chimed in before, but I'll chime one more time. I've got a small piece of gelcoat from the hull of the 36" "wheels & claws" studio model. I removed the grime & oxidation from the chip with plastic polish, then compared it to my Federal Standard fan deck. The chip is a near-perfect match for Chrome Yellow FS13538.

I can't vouch for the color fidelity of Chrome Yellow, as formulated by various paint manufacturers, so I'd double-check any paint against a Fed Std chip.

As for the blue, I don't have any Fed Std colors for you. I've sent Rob McFarlane a photo of the upper docking ring I took, so he can post it for me (long story). I'd suggest that once you've found the correct shade of yellow, compare it against the yellow in the photo and use The Force to arrive at a corresponding shade of blue.

Expertly yours,

Gary


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## Antimatter

I wonder why they painted the top hatch area blue on top and yellow on bottom?


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## Wbnemo1

dark on top light on bottom...... isn't that the way ohh camoflage?


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## Carson Dyle

Gary K said:


> I've sent Rob McFarlane a photo of the upper docking ring I took, so he can post it for me (long story).


This would be the photo our expert is expertly referring to...










The blue here looks pretty dark...

Hmpf.


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## Gary K

Carson Dyle said:


> This would be the photo our expert is expertly referring to...


Au contraire! You've posted my photo of the LOWER docking ring. Check the latest email in your inbox.

Gary


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## Carson Dyle

Just making sure you're paying attention...


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## Seaview

I think Falcon (Alexander) picked the blue shade correctly when he selected "Testors Model Masters 'Ford&GM Engine Blue' enamel" (so I bought 2 bottles of it).


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## Seashark

I used Tamiya TS-15 and that looks pretty good to me. But then again I'm not slavishly anal.


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## scotpens

Seashark said:


> I used Tamiya TS-15 and that looks pretty good to me. But then again I'm not slavishly anal.


Now, now. There are plenty of other forums for that kind of talk!


----------



## Seashark

scotpens said:


> Now, now. There are plenty of other forums for that kind of talk!


:lol:

In all seriousness though, I love all the minutiae and the lengths people go to to get their models looking "perfect" I have gone to those lengths myself on occation. 

That and I love pouring over photos of old miniatures, something that is quickly becoming a forgotten past time in this day of total CGI.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Seashark said:


> I used Tamiya TS-15 and that looks pretty good to me.


Me too.

After futzing around with a few different Tamiya brand shades of blue and yellow I've settled on TS-15 "Blue" for the accents and TS-47 "Chrome Yellow" for the hull. I can't speak for other brands, but in the Tamiya line these shades come the closest to matching Gary K's reference. Close enough for me, anyway.










That can of TS-34 "Camel Yellow" will come in handy as a primary coat for the intake discs, the idea being to achieve a subtle, slightly darker yellow shading around the outer edges. I'm generally not big on the artificial shading of scale models (looks good in photos; looks silly in person), but in this case I think it'll help provide some definition to those little faceted areas ringing the discs.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

They look great to me.I would love to do one with the base coat yellow and the shading in the camel color.Cant wait,Rob.


----------



## Seashark

Carson Dyle said:


> Me too.
> 
> After futzing around with a few different Tamiya brand shades of blue and yellow I've settled on TS-15 "Blue" for the accents and TS-47 "Chrome Yellow" for the hull. I can't speak for other brands, but in the Tamiya line these shades come the closest to matching Gary K's reference. Close enough for me, anyway.
> 
> That can of TS-34 "Camel Yellow" will come in handy as a primary coat for the intake discs, the idea being to achieve a subtle, slightly darker yellow shading around the outer edges. I'm generally not big on the artificial shading of scale models (looks good in photos; looks silly in person), but in this case I think it'll help provide some definition to those little faceted areas ringing the discs.


Those yellow's look like they'll work great! I'll have to pick some up.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Pinewood Racer building duty kept Dad pretty busy today, but here’s a couple of FS-related mini-tips:

As Gary K pointed out, the upper docking collar sits a bit low in its cradle relative to the lower disc (a production glitch which I understand will be corrected in subsequent runs of the kit). An easy fix is to simply glue four short strips of .1mm styrene in the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’ clock positions within the trench where the collar is meant to rest (only 2 strips are shown below)…










Since I then proceeded to permanently affix the upper collar to the hull (no topside view of the interior for me!), I didn’t bother to make things neat and tidy, but those four little styrene “risers” really did the trick in terms of insuring uniformity of depth between the upper and lower discs (for the similarly anal-retentive among you who care about this sort of thing). Tomorrow I plan to fill in the gap between the collar and the hull, which is a little too pronounced in relation the lower hull (those wishing to keep the upper disc section removable may want to ship this part). 

Tip #2 has to do with those scratch-built lamp cages I mentioned upthread. Having cut away the cages that came with the kit, and having filed down the little raised rings around the lamp portals that originally supported the cages, I needed to come up with a pair of new ring-shaped settings for the wire replacement cages. A trip to the hardware store yielded all types and sizes of washers...










Of course, at the end of the day I ended up fashioning my own rings from styrene tubing (it took three different sizes of tube telescoped together to arrive at the proper width). A mitre-box comes in handy for cutting thin, evenly proportioned rings from the joined tubes.


----------



## Antimatter

Last paint question. The area around the windows, intakes and search lights. What color?


----------



## starseeker

Having spent a few hours looking at ever photo of every Flying Sub that I could find, my own feeling is that there is no correct color for the Flying Sub. Lighting conditions, the color and temperature of the film, any number of factors will change the color that the sub seems. Whether it's real or not, even the various miniatures seemed to be of slightly different colors. And then you have the variables of: are you modeling it as it looked under water, on the surface, or in the air, and are you going to try to replicate the studio weathering?
Another paint to consider: Pactra Racing Finish RC 285C Bright Yellow and 286C Brilliant Blue.


----------



## jbond

I think the 36-inch miniatures had some additional "shading," on the hull that adds more of an orange tint while the smaller miniatures that were primarily used underwater seem more of a lemon yellow. But I believe the forward bulkhead--the window, vent and light housing--is aluminum on all the miniatures. There does also seem to be variation in the blue used for the trim and upper hatch; it seems lighter in some of the underwater shots.


----------



## Carson Dyle

I managed to get the deck painted this afternoon, followed by a light test... 



















EDIT: the lights are NOT on in the above shot ^. That yellow you're seeing is the result of 5 LAYERS of deeply tinted gel.










The gilusions under-the-deck lightsheet panel is a snap to install, but it required A LOT of yellow photographic gel to warm up the cool blueish light so that it mimics the yellow glow as seen in the series (and I _still_ haven't gotten it yellow enough). 

The lightsheet doesn’t throw out a lot of light (a good thing IMO), so care will have to be taken not to over-illuminate the interior thereby washing out the effect.


----------



## Steve H

Carson Dyle said:


> I managed to get the deck painted this afternoon, followed by a light test...
> 
> (snipped the pics)
> 
> The gilusions under-the-deck lightsheet panel is a snap to install, but it required A LOT of yellow photographic gel to warm up the cool blueish light so that it mimics the yellow glow as seen in the series.
> 
> The lightsheet doesn’t throw out a lot of light (a good thing IMO), so care will have to be taken not to over-illuminate the interior thereby washing out the effect.



That's looking really neat!

I wonder if the 'design intent' was that those panels were the main interior lights for the Flying Sub? for the life of me I can't see anything even remotely like lighting anyplace else...

(yes, yes, it was lit from the huge carbon arc lights and such hung overhead, I know that)


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Rob, You DO have it under control. I like your scratch-built lamp cage idea.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Steve H said:


> I wonder if the 'design intent' was that those panels were the main interior lights for the Flying Sub?


I once had the opportunity of asking set designer William Creber the same question. His response was (say it with me)....

"Irwin liked orange."

Which is another way of saying who the hell knows (or in Creber's case, who the hell remembers).

It _will_ be a bit tricky nailing the foot candles in the Moebius interior: too bright and you'll over-expose the deck panels; too dark and... well, it'll just be too dark.


----------



## CaptCBoard

So, the real question is-- what kind of area lighting should be added? There's no place to hide bulbs or LEDs where they can't be seen. Hey, I know-- lets get Gene or Rob to have Creber design a ceiling treatment for the FS. That way it'll be official!

Scott


----------



## gregsb

Looks good. Did you trim the light sheet around the 4th (non lit) light opening or paint the underside to block the light?


----------



## Carson Dyle

gregsb said:


> Looks good. Did you trim the light sheet around the 4th (non lit) light opening or paint the underside to block the light?


I cut the lightsheet. To me, the semi-opaque hatch looks better with nothing covering the underside. Gives it that "empty space" feel. Fortunately with lightsheet I don't have to worry about spill light leaking into this area as might be the case with LEDs. 

The other cool thing about lightsheet, maybe _the _cool thing about it (other than it's inherent thinness) is how even the distribution of light is. No hot spots... just a smooth pool of softly glowing illumination.


----------



## starseeker

gregsb said:


> Looks good. Did you trim the light sheet around the 4th (non lit) light opening or paint the underside to block the light?


Actually, the hatch cover did light. I fast fwdd thru Silent Saboteurs, Left Handed Guy, 5 Are Left and Dino Island last night and in one of them, the center portion of the 4th hex is lit, fading off at two or three inches from the outer perimeter. Also on the blueprint floorplan of the FS interior that someone posted here, the handhold on the edge of the raised floor for getting into and out of the bottom hatch is visible in one episode, tho I don't think it's one of the above.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Huh.

In the screen grabs I've collected the hatch-hex is unmistakably dark. That said, I only made grabs from a couple episodes, so anything's possible.

Chalk it upon to another vexing Irwin Allen continuity discrepancy.


----------



## starseeker

In Silent Saboteur when the hatch is open, you can see the framework quite clearly. In Deadly Creature Below, when Dobbs and Hawkins are lying on the floor, just getting up, after being loosed by the creature, just a few seconds before someone gives the order "All right, start recovery" and the Seaview moves over the FS, you can see the center portion of the hatch panel lit and the outer perimeter dark where the light doesn't illuminate around the frame. In all the other episodes I've scanned, this is the only one I've caught a glimpse of the hatch panel when the outer panels were actually lit. Mostly they're turned off.


----------



## Krel

Steve H said:


> That's looking really neat!
> 
> I wonder if the 'design intent' was that those panels were the main interior lights for the Flying Sub? for the life of me I can't see anything even remotely like lighting anyplace else...


The design intent was that 20th Century Fox had a soundstage full of those hex panels after "Fantastic Voyage", and an urgent desire to reuse them to offset some of the costs.

David.


----------



## Steve244

Steve H said:


> I wonder if the 'design intent' was that those panels were the main interior lights for the Flying Sub? for the life of me I can't see anything even remotely like lighting anyplace else...


Well, that and anti-grav generators. They wouldn't be needed on or under water though...


----------



## steve123

I think it's "mood lighting" If Crane gets a scuba babe aboard,The lights go to a warmer color....lol

Steve


----------



## starseeker

Carson Dyle said:


> _Dang_ this is a fun kit to work on!
> 
> 
> 
> Just for the heck of it I snapped off a shot of the 1/35 Moebius model sitting next to the 1/16 Rick Teskey version I’m working on. You can never have too many Flying Subs (just ask Admiral Nelson).


There's more than one reason I'm so envious of your FS builds. Out that open door in the background, it looks like summer... Summer!!! Here it's too cold to do Anything. I don't even want to open the outside vent on my spray booth to finish current projects. Which is why I'm researching details on the FS, which build is still months away for me. 
This morning, and this doesn't measure the wind chill, and it's a nasty north wind right now , which drops it another 8 degrees...

The Light Sheet looks brilliant! If there ever was a place that demanded its use, those floor panels are it. I've looked for it before but never found a supplier that that did transactions on-line, and I'm not sure about the E Bay people, whether what they're selling is stuff I want. Where did you get yours? Did you have to buy and use separate small pieces for each panel? Do they all run to the same power supply? Thanks!


----------



## MartinHatfield

starseeker said:


> There's more than one reason I'm so envious of your FS builds. Out that open door in the background, it looks like summer... Summer!!! Here it's too cold to do Anything. I don't even want to open the outside vent on my spray booth to finish current projects. Which is why I'm researching details on the FS, which build is still months away for me.
> This morning, and this doesn't measure the wind chill, and it's a nasty north wind right now , which drops it another 8 degrees...



Well, a week ago we had snow on the ground here in Marietta, GA. Now it is scheduled to get up to 80 degrees today. The old adage about Georgia weather holds true...If you don't like the weather in Georgia, wait a day or two.....meh.


----------



## Carson Dyle

starseeker said:


> The Light Sheet looks brilliant!Where did you get yours? Did you have to buy and use separate small pieces for each panel? Do they all run to the same power supply?


I purchased HT member "gilusions" FS light kit...

http://www.needfulthings.net/jai/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=66


----------



## azdacuda

Here is a good link for a company that specializes in lighting and animated lighting if you want to make your own

http://www.microstru.com/Experimenter-Kits.html


----------



## gregsb

With the JAI kit, have you started working on the resin panel or core lighting? Any insights would be helpful. Thanks


----------



## Gilusions

starseeker said:


> There's more than one reason I'm so envious of your FS builds. Out that open door in the background, it looks like summer... Summer!!! Here it's too cold to do Anything. I don't even want to open the outside vent on my spray booth to finish current projects. Which is why I'm researching details on the FS, which build is still months away for me.
> This morning, and this doesn't measure the wind chill, and it's a nasty north wind right now , which drops it another 8 degrees...
> 
> The Light Sheet looks brilliant! If there ever was a place that demanded its use, those floor panels are it. I've looked for it before but never found a supplier that that did transactions on-line, and I'm not sure about the E Bay people, whether what they're selling is stuff I want. Where did you get yours? Did you have to buy and use separate small pieces for each panel? Do they all run to the same power supply? Thanks!


I like to mention that I am an authorized dealer for the flat light I sell it from 1" wide to 39" up to 1800 feet if you want to do a real starship lighting effect!

I can custom make panels if you give me the size you need with inverters

I have a few stander size now but I am going to make of a variety soon.

Gil


----------



## Carson Dyle

gregsb said:


> With the JAI kit, have you started working on the resin panel or core lighting?


Not yet. I'll post pix when I do.


----------



## Seaview

Incidentally, Gil, I LOVE your new installation instructions and wiring schematics! They're (almost) idiot-proof, so don't be surprised if you get a call from me when I install the FS-1 lighting kit anyway.
Also, my Moebius Chariot turned out just great, too; thanks for your assistance on it! :thumbsup:
-Peter


----------



## Carson Dyle

Seaview said:


> Incidentally, Gil, I LOVE your new installation instructions and wiring schematics!


_What_ "installation instructions and wiring schematics?" Did you get something with your Moebius FS lighting kit I didn't?...


----------



## Antimatter

starseeker said:


> In Silent Saboteur when the hatch is open, you can see the framework quite clearly. In Deadly Creature Below, when Dobbs and Hawkins are lying on the floor, just getting up, after being loosed by the creature, just a few seconds before someone gives the order "All right, start recovery" and the Seaview moves over the FS, you can see the center portion of the hatch panel lit and the outer perimeter dark where the light doesn't illuminate around the frame. In all the other episodes I've scanned, this is the only one I've caught a glimpse of the hatch panel when the outer panels were actually lit. Mostly they're turned off.


Off topic for a sec, "The Deadly Creature Below" has to be one of the worst episodes of Voyage. I hated it. Made no sense at all.


----------



## Antimatter

Gilusions said:


> I like to mention that I am an authorized dealer for the flat light I sell it from 1" wide to 39" up to 1800 feet if you want to do a real starship lighting effect!
> 
> I can custom make panels if you give me the size you need with inverters
> 
> I have a few stander size now but I am going to make of a variety soon.
> 
> Gil


Is this stuff new? I've never heard of it before. Sounds much better than LED's. I found this:

http://www.ecogeek.org/content/view/338/


----------



## Seaview

Carson Dyle said:


> _What_ "installation instructions and wiring schematics?" Did you get something with your Moebius FS lighting kit I didn't?...


 
They're in adobe .pdf format, and downloadable from his website. The link is:

http://www.needfulthings.net/jai/pdf/FlyingSub_instructions.pdf

He also has them on-line for both of his Seaview lighting kits.


----------



## jbond

They are quite helpful--I thought the same thing when I was looking through my FS light kit initially. It's simple but I do need some instructions...


----------



## Carson Dyle

Oh, man, thanks for posting that. I _probably_ could've figured it out on my own, but it's always nice to have back-up.


----------



## GKvfx

starseeker said:


> There's more than one reason I'm so envious of your FS builds. Out that open door in the background, it looks like summer... Summer!!! Here it's too cold to do Anything. I don't even want to open the outside vent on my spray booth to finish current projects. Which is why I'm researching details on the FS, which build is still months away for me.
> This morning, and this doesn't measure the wind chill, and it's a nasty north wind right now , which drops it another 8 degrees...


Yeah, it really sucks to live out here, when this is the view from your workbench:


















Well, at least you don't have earthquakes and the annual burning of Malibu....

Gene


----------



## starseeker

Aaarugh!!


----------



## teslabe

GKvfx said:


> Yeah, it really sucks to live out here.
> Well, at least you don't have earthquakes and the annual burning of Malibu....
> 
> Gene


I thought "Earthquakes" was Nature's way of shaking my spray paint cans for
me.......


----------



## Antimatter

Any updates, Carson?


----------



## Gilusions

Antimatter said:


> Any updates, Carson?



If he does not have any update I do. I have been working on an interior figure lighting system.

I have tried using LED's for the main part of the interior, but I realized that they are to bright and if you want to use drews figures (which I do have a set and they are nice!) What I been getting is a silhouette with the figures because of the brightness. I have tried LED's over the cockpit but it is too much So I am making panel lighting for that area. 

So I am going to have an interior lighting soon. So if you decide to go for the figures and with the panels that are lit already will balance the inside of the FS-1.

What I have enclosed is lights on lights off.

Gil


----------



## Steve H

Gilusions said:


> If he does not have any update I do. I have been working on an interior figure lighting system.
> 
> I have tried using LED's for the main part of the interior, but I realized that they are to bright and if you want to use drews figures (which I do have a set and they are nice!) What I been getting is a silhouette with the figures because of the brightness. I have tried LED's over the cockpit but it is too much So I am making panel lighting for that area.
> 
> So I am going to have an interior lighting soon. So if you decide to go for the figures and with the panels that are lit already will balance the inside of the FS-1.
> 
> What I have enclosed is lights on lights off.
> 
> Gil


That's decent looking, and will probably really 'pop' once you've got the seats and figures in place. I *think* the larger FS mini had the cockpit lit by spill light from the 'headlights' but I wouldn't swear to that, just looks that way from the light mounts on the 'wheels and claw' mini.

But looking at your pics brings up something I wonder if anyone has considered? What do you do with the inside top? There's no guide because we never saw that in the show, being the home for the giant arc lamps and inkys and such. So, should there be something inbetween the supports? maybe a couple of wedge shaped EL panels? In RL would that be where shielded florescent tubes would be? Maybe emergency supplies like a life raft and yet another fire bottle? I dunno, but just yellow plastic somehow doesn't do it for me....


----------



## gregsb

I have applied the TSDS Vinyl Floor sheet, and realize that the sheet does not cover the floor all the way forward (stops at the sloped triangle area). It seemed a bit odd or incomplete, but I am now wondering if some lighting can be placed there to under light the figures and create the illusion that the panel is lighting the figures. The question being if you view the interior via the opened top hatch, I am guessing you will see the clear panel, and/or the bare light.


----------



## Gilusions

Steve H said:


> That's decent looking, and will probably really 'pop' once you've got the seats and figures in place. I *think* the larger FS mini had the cockpit lit by spill light from the 'headlights' but I wouldn't swear to that, just looks that way from the light mounts on the 'wheels and claw' mini.
> 
> But looking at your pics brings up something I wonder if anyone has considered? What do you do with the inside top? There's no guide because we never saw that in the show, being the home for the giant arc lamps and inkys and such. So, should there be something inbetween the supports? maybe a couple of wedge shaped EL panels? In RL would that be where shielded florescent tubes would be? Maybe emergency supplies like a life raft and yet another fire bottle? I dunno, but just yellow plastic somehow doesn't do it for me....


I had first planed on an over head flat light for lighting but because the docking ring can be taken off to view the interior and the flat light will cover that area. (Because I can make the flatlight round to give even lighting) I figure this is the best way to have even lighting with the control panels and overhead lighting.

If there is anyone who is interested on a large round flatlight and don't care if the docking ring comes out PM me.
Gil


----------



## GKvfx

Antimatter said:


> Any updates, Carson?



Ask him to tell you the one about the Moebius Flying Sub, the new Xacto blade, and the finger...........

Gene


----------



## Antimatter

GKvfx said:


> Ask him to tell you the one about the Moebius Flying Sub, the new Xacto blade, and the finger...........
> 
> Gene


Oh oh. :freak:


----------



## Antimatter

Any comment on ACE school bus yellow?


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Yes, I can find it in stock.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Gilusions said:


> I have been working on an interior figure lighting system...


Looks good, Gil. 

It’s hard to tell from those shots, but if you’re using the same type of lightsheet you used for the deck it should provide _just_ enough light to bring out the details of Drew’s figures without washing out the rest of the cabin.



Steve H said:


> What do you do with the inside top?


I’ll be interested to see how different FS builders handle this particular issue. Since I’m not making use of the removable top feature, my approach will probably be to cut a series of overhead panels from styrene sheet, apply a little tan or buff-colored lacquer, and secure them to the tops of the support braces. 



GKvfx said:


> Ask him to tell you the one about the Moebius Flying Sub, the new Xacto blade, and the finger.......
> Gene


Yeah, it’s been many years since I’ve nicked myself severely enough to warrant a trip to Emergency Care. Serves me right for having just given Gene a hard time about slicing into his hand with a Dremel. Accidents happen, but as Sgt. Phil Esterhaus used to say: “Let’s be careful out there!”

And on that note… 

Not a lot of work to show this week, but a couple of things worth mentioning…

Having cemented the upper docking ring to the hull, I taped off the areas immediately surrounding the seam and filled it in with Evercoat (same stuff I used to fill the hatch seams on the lower hull). Dave Merriman turned me onto Evercoat, and it is hands-down the best line of putties and fillers I've ever worked with. 










One of my favorite hobby tools is the "detail sander" I picked up at my local hobby shop; the perfect thing for getting into those pesky, hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. 

I really didn’t spend a lot of time on this; maybe an hour total. The idea was simply to get the top ring to resemble the lower ring as closely as possible. 










Gilusions’ deck lighting panel is pre-punched to fit snugly onto the underside of the deck. Thing is, if you trim out the part of the panel that would otherwise overlap the bottom of the hatch-hex (as I did) you may find that this will cause the panel to warp slightly around the edges. Said warp is not severe, but for the best effect you really want to get the light panel flush against the underside of the deck. As shown below, my solution was to secure the panel with carefully applied 5-min epoxy (holding the light panel into place with clamps), followed by a layer or two of black tape. It may not look pretty, but it did the trick.

A word to the wise for anyone using this type of lighting accessory: Be very careful not to needlessly bend or overstress the power leads where they attach to the panel. Apparently I wasn’t careful enough, and I snapped one of them off. It was a simple matter to re-solder the broken contact, but with a little more caution I could have avoided this problem altogether.










It took a fair amount of sanding and priming to arrive at a pair of reasonably blemish-free hull halves, but it’s worth the effort IMO. Given the clean, smooth, un-fussy surface of this particular vessel's hull, any manufacturing-related imperfections are likely to stand out like a sore thumb.











Here’s a closer look at the upper ring. Upon closer inspection I see my sanding stick accidentally dug a very slight trench around a section of the docking seal where it meets the hull. Just when you think you’re finished sanding and priming… 










If last week’s FS progress seems underwhelming I have a good excuse… the Pinewood Derby racer my son and I built won a prize for Most Original Design. :woohoo:










Suffice it to say this particular racer was not built for speed, but at least it looked good as it meandered nonchalantly across the finish line.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Very cool Carson!

My son just had his Pinwood Derby as well...And also won for most Original design!!!LOL! He is a Weeblo in pack 64.

Great Job On The Sub Sir!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## GKvfx

Carson Dyle said:


> Yeah, it’s been many years since I’ve nicked myself severely enough to warrant a trip to Emergency Care. Serves me right for having just given Gene a hard time about slicing into his hand with a Dremel. Accidents happen, but as Sgt. Phil Esterhaus used to say: “Let’s be careful out there!”




Yeah, some days, the Dremel wins (neat thing about having a Dremel in a stand is that you can injure yourself in ways not possible if you were hand holding it) - 










But, unlike Carson, I chose to treat myself. :drunk: If it's one thing I've learned to fix in my years of modeling, it's injuries to myself. Maybe we should start another thread called "Triage for Modelers"?

Gene


----------



## Lloyd Collins

"the Pinewood Derby racer my son and I built won a prize for Most Original Design."
Congratulations!

Rob, your work looks impressive! I need to get one of those sanders.

Gene, your thread idea,"Triage for Modelers", is needed. Your new nick name is, "Gene Slicer", since you keep slicing yourself!


----------



## GKvfx

I think it's more like "the Pinewood Derby car I tried to build with my Dad, but he kept pushing me away so I wouldn't mess it up" or "The Pinewood Derby car with the most parent participation". 

Gene


----------



## Antimatter

GKvfx said:


> Yeah, some days, the Dremel wins (neat thing about having a Dremel in a stand is that you can injure yourself in ways not possible if you were hand holding it) -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, unlike Carson, I chose to treat myself. :drunk: If it's one thing I've learned to fix in my years of modeling, it's injuries to myself. Maybe we should start another thread called "Triage for Modelers"?
> 
> Gene


Looks painful. I hate paper cuts let alone that kind of injury. Take care.


----------



## Dave Metzner

Keep a bottle of super glue handy for those knife wounds!


----------



## GKvfx

Antimatter said:


> Looks painful. I hate paper cuts let alone that kind of injury. Take care.



To paraphrase the great Monty Python - "It (was) just a flesh wound." :thumbsup:

Gene


----------



## Carson Dyle

During one of his beloved electronics junk shop scavenging hunts GKvfx was kind enough to score me a pair of... thin, round, metal, fan-like things. When it comes to locating cool-looking scrap-box greeblies Gene's Da Man!










Combined with a pair of Gilusions' "engine glow diffusion discs" (for lack of a better phrase) they make for a pretty cool thruster effect. Not too bright... not too flat... not too shabby!










Now if I can just find someone who knows how to pull focus.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

WOW! That is so......COOL!:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Carson Dyle said:


> During one of his beloved electronics junk shop scavenging hunts GKvfx was kind enough to score me a pair of... thin, round, metal, fan-like things. When it comes to locating cool-looking scrap-box greeblies Gene's Da Man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Combined with a pair of Gilusions' "engine glow diffusion discs" (for lack of a better phrase) they make for a pretty cool thruster effect. Not too bright... not too flat... not too shabby!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I can just find someone who knows how to pull focus.


Great find...... They look so cool, just about the best thing I've seen....:thumbsup:
Where in LA did he find them? They look like "motor stator core" sheets,
hard to tell from the photo, but who cares, they look great.....:thumbsup:


----------



## Prince of Styrene II

Carson Dyle said:


> Now if I can just find someone who knows how to pull focus.


Film or digital? If digital, did you use the macro setting? Did you focus on the thruster, _then_ reframe your shot?

Spiffy thrusters, btw. :thumbsup:

Question for you: individually, what is the dimention of those floor lighting panels, tip to tip?


----------



## gregsb

Very effective...they look great, whatever they are.


----------



## WEAPON X

Carson Dyle said:


> During one of his beloved electronics junk shop scavenging hunts GKvfx was kind enough to score me a pair of... thin, round, metal, fan-like things. When it comes to locating cool-looking scrap-box greeblies Gene's Da Man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Combined with a pair of Gilusions' "engine glow diffusion discs" (for lack of a better phrase) they make for a pretty cool thruster effect. Not too bright... not too flat... not too shabby!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I can just find someone who knows how to pull focus.


 Is there a way that I could purchase a set? Can you assist?

- Ben


----------



## Carson Dyle

WEAPON X said:


> Is there a way that I could purchase a set? Can you assist?


Yeah, I'd actually like to have a few more of those things myself. Maybe when Gene has a moment he'll tell us A) what they are, and B) where we might find them. The cool thing about them is the are very thin, and it's real easy to sandwich them between the kit parts. 

With regard to the hex dimensions: I don't have the model in front of me at the moment, but for anyone who does, feel free to chime in...


----------



## GKvfx

Let me see if I can scrounge up some more. (I only have two left.) They weren't expensive.

Gene


----------



## gregsb

Do they have a proper name? Looks photo etched. I'm interested as well.


----------



## GKvfx

gregsb said:


> Do they have a proper name? Looks photo etched. I'm interested as well.



I believe the technical name is...... thingees. I gotta figure out where I got them - I've been doing this for years. I'll hit up a couple places this weekend.

Gene


----------



## Steve244

no need to resort to crime.

So does ThingiesR-US have any stores outside of CA?


----------



## Steve H

Carson Dyle said:


> Yeah, I'd actually like to have a few more of those things myself. Maybe when Gene has a moment he'll tell us A) what they are, and B) where we might find them. The cool thing about them is the are very thin, and it's real easy to sandwich them between the kit parts.
> 
> With regard to the hex dimensions: I don't have the model in front of me at the moment, but for anyone who does, feel free to chime in...


I smell a market for someone who can make photoetch copies of those, because that REALLY looks cool.


----------



## GKvfx

Steve244 said:


> no need to resort to crime.
> 
> So does ThingiesR-US have any stores outside of CA?


It came from one of the surplus places here in LA. Problem is, some of them have closed up in the past couple of years and I need to go to the ones that are left and see if I can find them in decent quantity. I've picked up so much stuff that "might come in handy in the future", that when the future actually shows up, I gotta think where I got them from......

Gene


----------



## WEAPON X

GKvfx said:


> Let me see if I can scrounge up some more. (I only have two left.) They weren't expensive.
> 
> Gene


Gene, Definitely serious about purchasing a set or two. Can you could assist?

- Ben


----------



## teslabe

GKvfx said:


> It came from one of the surplus places here in LA. Problem is, some of them have closed up in the past couple of years and I need to go to the ones that are left and see if I can find them in decent quantity. I've picked up so much stuff that "might come in handy in the future", that when the future actually shows up, I gotta think where I got them from......
> 
> Gene


Could you have gotten them from Apex surplus? It looks like something that would have come form there.They look like the sheets that make up a Motor Stator Core Laminations.


----------



## steve123

Those look wonderfull! I'm going to try and "make" some..

Maybe some stretched spue in a radial pattern, or, something inked on film...

Yup, gotta have some...

Steve


----------



## teslabe

steve123 said:


> Those look wonderfull! I'm going to try and "make" some..
> 
> Maybe some stretched spue in a radial pattern, or, something inked on film...
> 
> Yup, gotta have some...
> 
> Steve


Steve, I plan to look further online to find the right Stator pattern. Then 
save it as a picture, then resize it in Photoshop to the size of the jet's dia. then print it on some clear film in my laser printer. Just an idea....


----------



## GKvfx

Jeez - see what you've done Carson?

I let y'all know what I find over the weekend. I'll just buy a bunch if they still have them........ (or maybe I'll find something better!)

Gene


----------



## steve123

That's what I was thinking...I was going to use india ink and a compass...

What a cool thing...You saw my blurry tail shot...that's just what the doctor ordered... Hooo.hooo...how cool.

Steve


----------



## teslabe

steve123 said:


> That's what I was thinking...I was going to use india ink and a compass...
> 
> What a cool thing...You saw my blurry tail shot...that's just what the doctor ordered... Hooo.hooo...how cool.
> 
> Steve


I think I'll go the easy path and use Photoshop. Here is just a fast search
of Stator patterns. I work with DC Brushless motors and will make some calls to my vendors for some better artwork tomorrow....:thumbsup: I'll be working on my Reactor wall/MP4 mod tomorrow so I hope to have the time.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Okay guys, I think we've got the whole "thruster nozzle pattern thingee" thing covered, at least as far as this thread is concerned (although it might make for an interesting and constructive thread on its own). Gene will give us a heads-up if he manages to score more, but as demonstrated there are any number of ways to achieve a similar effect.


----------



## steve123

What is with this thread boss thingy?...We are talking...if you have some thing to add, add it...
I think mods would be doing a better service to stop the "quoting thingys"
My "headlights" post is a good example.. 

Steve


----------



## teslabe

steve123 said:


> What is with this thread boss thingy?...We are talking...if you have some thing to add, add it...
> I think mods would be doing a better service to stop the "quoting thingys"
> My "headlights" post is a good example..
> 
> Steve


Maybe it was just that someone might have known what that "Thingy" was and took the time to put a name to it that got the nasty responce.... I will say no more....:wave:


----------



## steve123

You want to know how to kill a great web site?

Just make sure that every time someone posts something...they wonder if it's "ok" to say something. 
Rob's pal is going to make a product,..cool! 
The other modelers here are talking about how easy it would be to make our own at home and discussing how we would go about that. I will not let someone tell me the conversation is over, because it dosen't meet their "needs"

Steve


----------



## Carson Dyle

steve123 said:


> What is with this thread boss thingy?...


Please feel free to start your own thread, and kindly refrain from trying to commandeer mine.



steve123 said:


> You want to know how to kill a great web site?
> 
> Just make sure that every time someone posts something...they wonder if it's "ok" to say something.


I know another way; flaunt an overdeveloped sense of entitlement and forget the fact that you're a guest on someone else's thread.

For the record, I don't mind if this discussion meanders a bit, and I'm certainly not trying to stifle the ongoing exchange of information. On the other hand, I've seen threads become so over-inundated with chatter that any useful information gets lost in the din. I'd prefer that not happen to this thread, and I suspect _most_ of you will have no problem respecting my wishes.


----------



## Lee Staton

Without good moderators like Rob, Dave Metzner, and others, discussion boards become useless, meandering, and full of personal attacks. Why would we want our good thing here to disintegrate?

I'd rather live with some limits and keeping threads on topic. It is so darned easy to start a new thread. Remember, we're ALL guests here on Hobby Talk. If you want to make your own rules, create your own playground elsewhere.

Just my two cents as a long time friend of several hobby boards. The very best ones stay useful and fun because of thoughtful moderation.

Lee


----------



## teslabe

Lee Staton said:


> Without good moderators like Rob, Dave Metzner, and others, discussion boards become useless, meandering, and full of personal attacks. Why would we want our good thing here to disintegrate?
> 
> I'd rather live with some limits and keeping threads on topic. It is so darned easy to start a new thread. Remember, we're ALL guests here on Hobby Talk. If you want to make your own rules, create your own playground elsewhere.
> 
> Just my two cents as a long time friend of several hobby boards. The very best ones stay useful and fun because of thoughtful moderation.
> 
> Lee


Carson started what I thought was a very good deviation to this tread, and 
since it was his tread, I thought it was open for us to add our $0.02.
Poor Steve got spanked for what I thought was some very good ideas, maybe it was my input that got someone upset, don't know, but I think if the posts have good info and a point for the subject, and not some of the very lame remarks (jokes) I see, what's the harm?????:wave:


----------



## Seaview

I think it's about "thread drift" which was pretty much in danger of becoming a "thread hijacking", which was unintentional and is, let's face it, a natural progression in the art of group conversation. 
The way I look at it, this is STILL our friend Rob's thread. I sincerely hope that both he and our new associate Steve123 will patch things up (soon!), but that is between those two gentlemen, who each share the gift of being fine modellers by their own merits. :dude:


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I want to see an update.


----------



## teslabe

Seaview said:


> I think it's about "thread drift" which was pretty much in danger of becoming a "thread hijacking", which was unintentional and is, let's face it, a natural progression in the art of group conversation.
> The way I look at it, this is STILL our friend Rob's thread. I sincerely hope that both he and our new associate Steve123 will patch things up (soon!), but that is between those two gentlemen, who each share the gift of being fine modellers by their own merits. :dude:


Very well put.:thumbsup:


----------



## Carson Dyle

Lloyd Collins said:


> I want to see an update.


Hang in there Lloyd, the weekend is almost upon us.


----------



## GKvfx

OK guys, I managed to get some more of the etched fan thingees that I gave to Rob for his Flying Sub engines. I've started a separate thread in the 'For Sale' section here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=249084

Let's not derail Rob's thread by talking about it here.

Gene


----------



## Carson Dyle

Thanks, Gene!


----------



## Carson Dyle

File today’s update under “cautionary tale.” 

After decades of building models I really thought my abilities had advanced to the point where I wouldn’t be able to screw up a part this bad…










Little did I know.

The trouble began when I accidentally mistook a can of enamel spray paint for lacquer (I despise enamel paints, and thought I’d tossed the last can out ages ago). One thing led to another, and faster than you can say “careless idiot” I had completely destroyed this rear bulkhead piece (yes, I actually managed to melt the styrene with lacquer thinner). 

I don’t know what Moebius’ policy is with regard to acquiring replacement parts for stuff like this, but I guess I’m about to find out. It would serve me right if I had to buy another kit.

The good news is I have yet to mistake a can of spray paint for my nasal decongestant. Knock on wood.


----------



## Seaview

Even your FINGERS look stressed out!
Oh, well, if Moebius' customer service is as good as his products, you'll probably have your replacement part by next weekend! :thumbsup:


----------



## Lloyd Collins

This was not the kind of update I expected, sorry to hear of your bulkhead buckling.

You better not have a tube of eye ointment, next to the tube of superglue!


----------



## GKvfx

You, know, it was perfectly fine when I left your garage yesterday afternoon. I guess I can't leave you alone with it. Look at it this way, you've started a "battle-damaged" variant.

Gene


----------



## Carson Dyle

GKvfx said:


> You, know, it was perfectly fine when I left your garage yesterday afternoon.


You must have jinxed it.


----------



## MartinHatfield

GKvfx said:


> You, know, it was perfectly fine when I left your garage yesterday afternoon. I guess I can't leave you alone with it. Look at it this way, you've started a "battle-damaged" variant.
> 
> Gene


oooh! What a nifty idea there GK. Also, that piece doesn't look like it has a lot of detail to it, couldn't you just recreate it with sheet styrene? 

I'm just sayin'


----------



## Carson Dyle

MartinHatfield said:


> that piece doesn't look like it has a lot of detail to it, couldn't you just recreate it with sheet styrene?


In fact, that's probably what I'll do. The hatchway detailing will require a little finessing, but it's certainly not the hardest part I've ever had to fabricate.


----------



## GKvfx

Carson Dyle said:


> In fact, that's probably what I'll do. The hatchway detailing will require a little finessing, but it's certainly not the hardest part I've ever had to fabricate.



Dude, with your Karma right now, I'd just get a replacement from Moebius. If you try to cut it from sheet styrene, you'll just stab yourself with an X-acto knife or something in the process. :tongue:

Gene


----------



## Carson Dyle

GKvfx said:


> If you try to cut it from sheet styrene, you'll just stab yourself with an X-acto knife...


I'll stab someone...


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Ah! Friends and X-acto knives! Such wacky, zany fun...


----------



## BigGuido

*Just picked up my FS-1 at the Hobby Shop today!*

I am so stoked about building this kit! I have been reading this thread and can't wait to incorporate so many of the suggestions and sage advice you fellas provide here. It is so good to know that there are other folks out there that share my love of the Irwin Allen shows and the wonderful vehicles that they featured. Moebius is producing the kits I dreamed of as a kid and I can't put into words how much I appreciate all of the effort they put into producing them. The kits just are top-notch and the quality is just amazing. They are worth every penny. I am planning on picking up every Irwin Allen kit they produce! Next week I will pick up Chariot and Space Pod! I plan on building them as soon as I get my basement work shop in order and will be sure to post my progress as I go.


----------



## GKvfx

Lloyd Collins said:


> Ah! Friends and X-acto knives! Such wacky, zany fun...



Yeah, looked what happened the last time we had such wacky, zany fun - 










Capt. CBoard will never let us help him 'set up' his table at Wonderfest again!

Gene


----------



## Carson Dyle

Nevermind the X-acto... Gene's favorite weapon is that bloody camera.


----------



## steve123

Rob, it won't even really show...mine is almost hidden even with the interior lit,..Aughh
I hate it when I mess up a part..sorry man!
I was going to put in a weapons locker back there.. I don't want this project to end..lol...maybe something like that?

Steve


----------



## Carson Dyle

I’ve been pondering a few ideas for a custom display stand to be fashioned from acrylic and MDF. Although I love Moebius’ nod to the original Aurora stand, I thought it would be fun to have the option of displaying the model a couple of different ways. 



















Thanks to the wonder of super magnets it’s pretty easy to do -- the idea being to fasten the model to the stand via a small but powerful magnet concealed within the model’s lower hull, just aft of the docking seal (this "invisible" mount would be in addition to the plug mount provided with the kit, the latter of which could still be used to secure the model to the Aurora-esque stand).

My inspiration comes from Brent Gair who devoted an entire thread to the subject over on CulTVman’s modeling board...

http://www.culttvman.biz/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7303396


----------



## bert model maker

GKvfx said:


> Yeah, looked what happened the last time we had such wacky, zany fun -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt. CBoard will never let us help him 'set up' his table at Wonderfest again!
> 
> Gene


I found a klingon cruiser model ( Like the blue one in picture the guy with the hat is holding) at a second hand dealer while looking for a desk for my model building. The store owner recieved it with some second hand stuff given to his store and had placed it in a junk pile for the dumpster. He told me I could have it & it would save him having to throw it away. I am not really a trek ship fan however I can't justify throwing away a perfectly good model that is still sealed in the plastic bag inside the tattered box. The issue date of this kit is 1979, it is amt ERTL kit of star trek the motion picture and says it is over 15 inches long. It is a complete kit. I have it on the very bottom of my kit stash. It looks like a neat kit.
Bert


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Caption for the above photo, "The fight started over who was more evil, "Klingons!, Khan!,Klingons! Khan!" and the battle rages on."


----------



## greggo

Hello All, I have found the posts and pictures on this thread to be excellent. I am building the moebius FS1 at the moment and find it to be a fantastic model. I will be using the more metallic looking blue as seen on the 36" hero version. I hope to post some pictures soon.
Thanks all.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Thanks and welcome to Hobbytalk.

I got briefly side-tracked by another project, but am now back at work on the FS and will post a thread update soon.


----------



## greggo

Thanks Carson, I found this thread off another site and it is a fantastic build, especially the way in which the ceiling has been done.
http://www.raytheonmodels.com/wipflyingsub9.html


----------



## solex227

greggo said:


> Thanks Carson, I found this thread off another site and it is a fantastic build, especially the way in which the ceiling has been done.
> http://www.raytheonmodels.com/wipflyingsub9.html


That is a great build Ian is a real nice guy ! I believe the build is for a customer and hes waiting on Drews figures to add the build.:thumbsup:

solex227


----------



## drewid142

...and those figures are already on their way 

Drew

oh... and holy pooh that IS a fantastic build!


----------



## jbond

Magnifico!


----------



## Carson Dyle

Yeah, Ian did a bang-up job on the interior. Just looking at all that wiring makes my head hurt, lol.

That's basically the effect I'm planning for my overhead, but with the inclusion of blue tinted cabin lights (as you can see, it's pretty darned dark in there).


----------



## Seaview

Fantastic! I'd rate that build up there with Fluke's Spindrift and Carson's Proteus!


----------



## jbond

That's making me rethink my interior too--I used the interior decals and the lighting kit clear panels and just scraped black paint off the clear panels to let light through...drilling out the actual buttons and lights on the kit panels and painting that sure looks better.


----------



## greggo

Has anybody considered doing the "City Beneath The Sea" flying sub? I thought about it but didn't like the look of the red cage.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Finally an update.

Having purchased one of Gilusions ring-shaped flat-lights I fashioned an overhead panel from sheet styrene…










What a mess! This test fit shows the bulk of the interior assembly in position…


----------



## Carson Dyle

Cont’d…

Thin gauge sheet styrene was used to fashion an overhead for the flight deck…









The overhead will eventually be glued to the top edge of the forward bulkhead, creating a gentle bow between the two wall extensions on either side of the pilot seats…









Because I wanted my (custom) display stand to attach to the model fairly far astern I was obliged to fashion some sort of mount. Two holes were drilled in a piece of 1/8” acrylic and the heat-warped piece was was epoxied over corresponding holes in the lower hull (the model will be attached to the stand via two small machine screws)… 










This is probably overkill, but given the position of the mount and the weight of the finished model I decided to beef up the rear of the lower hull with a couple of strips of resin-coated fiberglass tape. This should prevent the hull from warping over time…









Drew’s figures, ready to embark on their first voyage…


----------



## teslabe

Beautiful work Rob......:thumbsup: I like how nice the overhead panel turned
out, nice work. I love the painting on Drew's figures...:thumbsup: Keep posting......:wave:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

*Beautiful Work Sir!!*

Love what you did..Great Job as usual!


----------



## GKvfx

When I see this photo - 








- I want to yell, "Clear!" and then defibrillate the darn thing!

Gene


----------



## falcondesigns

Very clever solution to the interior lighting challange...........great build,Rob.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

WOW! Impressive! I love what you have done so far!

Rob, just a though for the overhead light. Would adding more holes or maybe some well placed slots to increase the lights without distracting from want you want to see. Slots maybe along the ring beams out of view. Adding LEDs to increase the light might be to much light spotlights. Just a thought.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Thanks for the suggestion, Lloyd. I hesitate to open up any more holes in the overhead, as it already resembles a slice of Swiss cheese. And, in any case, the resultant bump in foot candles would be negligible.

A single white LED, properly diffuse and carefully placed, would probably do the trick. I just have figure out where to put it...


----------



## falcondesigns

The light balance looks good now,no need to overkill.


----------



## Carson Dyle

The exposure I used makes the interior look somewhat brighter than it is.

A single LED ought to be enough to boost the ambient light to the proper level.


----------



## bert model maker

Rob, That looks GREAT, OUTSTANDING !!!
Bert


----------



## jbond

DANG...looks great!


----------



## Mitchellmania

Amazing!


----------



## Carson Dyle

It’s been a while since my last update, but I’ve been making slow but steady progress…









One of the most challenging things about this model is getting the inner walls, dashboard, and inner-roof to neatly and seamlessly meet up at the forward bulkhead. Clear Evergreen sections were trimmed out for the windows, which were then epoxied to the inside of the bulkhead. The windows were masked off on the inside and the outer edges painted to match the interior walls. 

My hope was that I could get away with pre-painting the exterior of the forward bulkhead for masking out later. I wanted to avoid having to paint blue window frames around masked windows and thus risk messing up the clear styrene This approach didn’t quite work out as planned, as you’ll see below.










Gilusions’ flat-light panels provide illumination for the deck and overhead. I wish I’d bothered to hook up the control panel lights for this light test shot, because it’s the best shot of the interior I took. 

Although the flat-light panels are terrific for “effect” lighting I found additional illumination was required in order to bring up the overall light level. This was achieved via a single defused white LED hidden in the corner, out of sight…










Here you can see the little LED “snoot” I fashioned out of styrene tubing and stuck through a drilled-out aperture in the starboard bulkhead. Attaching the aforementioned LED at this point allowed me to focus a soft pool of diffuse light on the rear hatch and bunk areas. The LED itself cannot be seen from the outside, but it makes a huge difference in terms of the overall cabin light level.


----------



## Carson Dyle

So after I got the interior all bottled up I noticed a fine layer of dust on the dashboard. I’m still not sure how I missed it originally, but I knew it would drive me crazy if I didn’t get rid of it. Attaching a Q-Tip to a short length of aluminum tubing I reached though the small opening in the overhead and wiped the dust away. Unfortunately I also dislodged one the co-pilot’s joy-sticks in the process, knocking it to the deck.

Bummer. Telling myself not to panic, I shook the loose joy-stick out of the model, carefully propped the model nose-up against a pillow, stuck a small bead of silly-putty on the end of the aluminum rod, lightly affixed the joy-stick to the putty, clamped the rear end of the rod in a “Third-Hand” rig, and CAREFULLY extended the joy-stick back into the model…










Here you can see the joy-stick being gingerly moved into position against the armrest. With the part held in place by the Third Hand, I reached in with another aluminum rod, the end of which had been dipped in CA glue, and reattached the joy-stick to the seat with a single precisely administered glue drop.

Whew! Moral to the story: Beware of Dust, and Never Settle for a Joy-Stickless Co-Pilot.









I’m still not exactly sure why I encountered a fit issue with the upper and lower hull halves, but it may have has something to do with how thoroughly I reinforced the inside of the lower hull with fiberglass tape (see previously posted pix). The advantage of this is that it made the lower hull very rigid where it attaches to the scratch-built stand. The bad news is a rigid hull obviously doesn’t have a lot of “flex,” which meant the upper hull had to do all the work in this regard. Try as I did, I was unable to get both the aft and forward parts of the upper and lower hulls to come together simultaneously.










My solution was to go ahead and clamp-seal the aft part of the model with epoxy. This left a fairly large gap in front where the upper hull meets the top of the forward bulkhead. Thank heaven for Evercoat sanding putty…










After sealing, sanding, and priming the gap at the upper nose, I decided to do a little re-contouring of the leading edge of the lower hull to create a slightly sharper profile. Intersecting strips of styrene formed a “dam” for the putty. By the way, Bare-metal Foil came in real handy when it came time to mask the search lamps in between primer coats.










The putty was then sanded down to a sharp edge, and the process repeated for the other side (sorry for the blurry image).

One drawback to all this gap and putty business is that it screwed up the silver edges of the pre-painted forward bulkhead. Try as I might, there was simply no way to avoid messing up the finish in these areas. Fortunately the windows and blue frames directly surrounding the windows were unaffected, which will make final masking of these areas a lot easier and less prone to window-schmootzing masking disasters.

I’ll tell ya, getting the nose of this model to look as crisp and clean as it deserves is NOT easy.










Here you can see what the "false roof" looks like through the windows.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Seen here, the re-contoured prow has been sanded and primed for the final (white) primer coat. If there's a single "over the hump" shot to this lengthy thread, this would have to be it.









A buddy cut out the parts for the wooden stand based on plans I sent him. I wanted something that would suggest the Aurora/ Moebius stand, but provide a little more stability. The model attaches to the stand via a small machine screw hidden on the underside of the support arm (thanks to GKvfx for this particular mounting solution, as well as for his immeasurable help with the electrical wiring).









I chose Tamiya Coral Blue for the stand which, in addition to suggesting water, has a vaguely 60’s, finned, new-car vibe I find somehow appropriate for the subject. 









At this point the model has been re-primed in white, re-sanded, and is standing by for finishing (hopefully this weekend, if Mom and the kids can be persuaded to cut Dad some slack).










The next and final update will contain pix of the finished model. Unless, you know, I screw it up.


----------



## gojira61

Carson Dyle said:


> [The next and final update will contain pix of the finished model. Unless, you know, I screw it up.


Don't even think it let alone say it!

Great build, I love the way you've done the lighting, can't wait to see this one done.

Jim


----------



## Paulbo

That's just fantastic Rob!


----------



## Prince of Styrene II

Bloody brilliant! I showed my wfie (who is no slouch when it comes to artsy stuff) that second pic of the interior, the really good one. Her jaw dropped when I told her it was all of about 8" in diameter. "That's a model?! It looks like a movie set!"

I second that comment. :thumbsup:


----------



## hedorah59

Fantastic work!


----------



## Steve244

Carson Dyle said:


>


OMG Carson! Can I get you to do my rec-room after you finish with yours?


----------



## Carson Dyle

Thanks, guys.

Funny thing about the interior, for all the time I spent on it, the view through the windshield is pretty limited. For those building their FS with a removable roof the effort is probably worth it, but if you're sealing the model up, as I did, be aware that you may be spending a lot of time futzing with details no one will ever see. Which is why I'm glad I took what few test-fit pix I did. 

Don't get me wrong; Moebius did a terrific job on the interior, and seeing some of the things other modelers have done with it has been truly inspiring. Nevertheless, _for me_ a properly finished exterior is the thing that will make this subject really stand out (it's a bit like the Proteus in that regard). Whether I can pull it off remains to be seen, but I'm gonna give it my best shot.

Stay tuned...


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Absolutely Awesomely Beautiful! The interior shot IS the money shot! The exterior is unbelievable, even with the white primer. I am proud to see your work!


----------



## sliuman

I'd say you have pulled it off, because that interior is amazing.

You've done a man's job, sir.


----------



## GKvfx

Carson Dyle said:


> ..........Whether I can pull it off remains to be seen......



God, who here doesn't think Carson can pull this off? 










Yeah, didn't think so. 

It's gonna be great (if the those pesky kids don't get in the way......!)

Gene


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## Carson Dyle

GKvfx said:


> It's gonna be great (if the those pesky kids don't get in the way......




I've tried blasting `em with lacquer thinner, but they just keep coming back for more.


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## GKvfx

Carson Dyle said:


> I've tried blasting `em with lacquer thinner, but they just keep coming back for more.


Yeah, they seem to develop an immunity to that...... 

Gene


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## Tim Nolan

Really impressive and inspiring work Carson. That interior is just beautiful. I've been gathering "extra parts" for mine, it's on the burner to get started soon. Yours will certainly be a great reference thread when I get it rolling! Looking forward to seeing it when you get it all done! Keep us posted! :thumbsup:


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## Carson Dyle

Got the first few coats of Tamiya Chrome Yellow laid down today. You’re looking at four rattle-cans worth of finish, and I estimate another three or four cans will be needed to complete the job. What I can tell you; coverage-wise the color yellow is a beeyatch.



















The little tombstone-shaped plug included with the kit proved handy when it came time for painting, providing a means to temporarily friction-fit the model to the end of a quick `n dirty armature. Initially I tried using the clear, Aurora-style stand for this, but with all the electronics and other stuff crammed into the interior the model was simply too heavy.










My plan all along has been to go for a bright, shiny (and yes, inaccurate) show room finish, and the guys on the automotive modeling forums have been very helpful. 

In a nutshell, the drill here is to let the paint cure for about a week before working the surface with 3200 – 4000 grit sandpaper to eliminate any residual “orange peel” texture. Once that’s done I’ll lay down another few coats of Chrome Yellow, along with the blue and silver trim, allow _another_ week or so to dry, then polish out the entire surface with micro-mask abrasives. 

My goal is to have the whole thing done in time for OrangeCon (a local IPMS show) on 10/17, and I think I should just about make it…


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## bert model maker

Rob, your Paint looks OUTSTANDING !!!


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## Lloyd Collins

She's a beauty!


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## WEAPON X

Carson, she looks beautiful! 

A thought came to mind and it may not even be necessary but did you provide any type of vents just in case of any residual low heat that might be generated during extended illumination?

I guess the rear hatch would serve as some air exchange.


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## starseeker2

Stunning! I love the showroom finish.


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## Carson Dyle

WEAPON X said:


> did you provide any type of vents just in case of any residual low heat that might be generated during extended illumination?


I thought about it, but given that my power source is a single 9V battery the notion of "extended illumination" is probably wishful thinking. 

In any case, I typically don't let my models' lights burn for long periods of time.


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## junglelord

Carson Dyle said:


> Got the first few coats of Tamiya Chrome Yellow laid down today. You’re looking at four rattle-cans worth of finish, and I estimate another three or four cans will be needed to complete the job. What I can tell you; coverage-wise the color yellow is a beeyatch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The little tombstone-shaped plug included with the kit proved handy when it came time for painting, providing a means to temporarily friction-fit the model to the end of a quick `n dirty armature. Initially I tried using the clear, Aurora-style stand for this, but with all the electronics and other stuff crammed into the interior the model was simply too heavy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My plan all along has been to go for a bright, shiny (and yes, inaccurate) show room finish, and the guys on the automotive modeling forums have been very helpful.
> 
> In a nutshell, the drill here is to let the paint cure for about a week before working the surface with 3200 – 4000 grit sandpaper to eliminate any residual “orange peel” texture. Once that’s done I’ll lay down another few coats of Chrome Yellow, along with the blue and silver trim, allow _another_ week or so to dry, then polish out the entire surface with micro-mask abrasives.
> 
> My goal is to have the whole thing done in time for OrangeCon (a local IPMS show) on 10/17, and I think I should just about make it…


That is very helpful information.
Thanks so much.


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## GKvfx

Carson Dyle said:


> ......You’re looking at four rattle-cans worth of finish, and I estimate another three or four cans will be needed to complete the job........


Does that mean that the dimensions of the model will be bigger by 1/8" due to the paint?



Gene


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## Prince of Styrene II

That looks fantastic! Nice job on the painting so far! :thumbsup:


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## AJ-1701

I am truely inspired by the work you have done. 

I'm sorry now  that I haven't been keeping better tabs on this thread.  To be a tenth of the modeling artist you are is some thing worth inspiring to. Can't wait to see it all done now and I reckon you'll blow em away at the Orangecon. :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Alec.


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## solex227

bravo ! the paint looks great ! from the photos you dont seem to have much work in the sanding out orange peel. the surface looks pretty smooth from here! :thumbsup:

Solex227


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## Carson Dyle

I was determined to finish this thing before the New Year, and I just made it. Finally!

Getting those pinstripes crisp and sharp was a bear. My touch-up skills have improved immeasurably thanks to this model, lol.

It’s been said a million times before, but the folks responsible for bringing this kit to market did a fantastic job. No doubt they’ll bring the same skills, talents, and expertise to bear on the Spindrift.


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## Carson Dyle

This shot gives a better look at the replacement lamp cages.










In one of the coolest model-related moments I’ve ever experienced I recently had the chance to show famed Irwin Allen production designer Bill Creber my model (for the three or four of you who may not know, Creber designed the Flying Sub). I tried hard not to geek out on him, but it was tough. 



















Creber isn’t really into the whole model-building “fan” thing, but I think he got a kick out of seeing the model all tricked out with lights.

Interesting bit of trivia; Creber originally designed the Flying Sub “upside down” so as to mimic the droop of the Seaview’s forward dive planes. Irwin Allen liked it better flip-flopped, and the rest is history.


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## Lou Dalmaso

Love, Love LOVE that showroom finish!

How many of the great ships of Sci-Fi were turned upside down from their original design?


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## Richard Baker

Lou Dalmaso said:


> How many of the great ships of Sci-Fi were turned upside down from their original design?


The USS Reliant is the most well known one IIRC.

.


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## hedorah59

That really is a beautiful build-up, Rob. Fantastic work! And how cool is that to have the guy that designed it check it out :thumbsup:


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## Lou Dalmaso

IIRC, The Enterprise itself was flipped in the sketch stage


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## Carson Dyle

Same with the TIE fighter.


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## Krel

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Love, Love LOVE that showroom finish!
> 
> How many of the great ships of Sci-Fi were turned upside down from their original design?


Irwin Allen also did that with the Spindrift.

David.


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## Lee Staton

As they say on "Firefly": Shiny!

Incredible job, Rob! Say, could you stop by and do that same paint job on mine?

Lee


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## solex227

Excellent finish again! I could see from the begining this was going to look great!


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## drewid142

Fantastic as always, Rob! I LOVE following along on your builds! Thanks for sharing!

Happy Holidays!

Drew


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## teslabe

Rob, your work is just some of the best I've ever seen..... That finish is sooo
smooth and the pin stripping so sharp, I only hope I can even come close.
Have a very Marry Christmas and a very Happy New Years.......:wave:


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## Carson Dyle

Thanks, guys.

It was a fun build.

Lee: Nice try, but I've seen your work, and you need no help from me. 

Teslabe: Re: the pinstripes: plastic automotive tape working in tandem with airbrushed blue paint applied in three or four light passes is highly recommended for masking out those stripes. 

Merry Christmas!


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## Captain Han Solo

Beautiful work Sir!:thumbsup:


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## ChrisW

Beautiful...


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## Ron Gross

Chris,
I know this is unrelated to the thread and to Moebius, but I wanted to mention how much I like your art work for PL's new C-57D. That ID monster really does it for me.
Ron G.


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## Lee Staton

Carson Dyle said:


> Lee: Nice try, but I've seen your work, and you need no help from me.


My work's not shabby, but you just have a way with these kits, Rob. It is stunning! I don't do gloss like YOU do gloss!

While my comment was cheeky, it was only to mask my envy that your FS is done and gorgeous!

Lee


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## Carson Dyle

Lee Staton said:


> I don't do gloss like YOU do gloss!


Thanks, Lee.

I have the automotive modelers to thank. I've found some of those guys to be very generous with their time and expertise. There's a bit of a learning curve with this "showroom finish" stuff, but once you get the hang of it it's kinda fun.

That said, I'm DYING to work on something messy and industrial for a change (Colonial Viper here I come).


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## falcondesigns

welll done.my friend.


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## AJ-1701

OOHHH So smooth and shiny!!! That is just awesome :woohoo: 

Cheers,

Alec.


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## Lloyd Collins

Rob, you did a fantastic job on her! I has been so enjoyable watching the progress, and congratulations on finishing her. She gave you some trouble earlier, but you did it!


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## Lee Staton

I'm still waiting to hear more of what Bill Creber said! Very cool that you got to meet him and show your work!

Lee


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## Mark Dorais

Carson.....Oh my God! Absolutely BEAUTIFUL job!! I'm more than impressed. I can hear the whine of the flying sub's turbines just by looking at your craftsmanship!


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## Carson Dyle

Thanks, guys.

Here's one more, just for fun. 










Got a new camera for Xmas, and I just couldn't resist.


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## kdaracal

Carson Dyle said:


> Thanks, guys.
> 
> Here's one more, just for fun.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a new camera for Xmas, and I just couldn't resist.


Stopped my heart for just a second............:thumbsup:


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## StarshipClass

Carson Dyle said:


> Same with the TIE fighter.


:roll:

The flying sub looks pretty cool upside down.

Excellent build and paint job!!!

It does not get any better than that!:thumbsup:


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## Captain Han Solo

*beautiful!!!*


*beautiful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*


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## Seaview

One word just popped into my mind, "sleek"! You are absolutly correct when you point out that the "show room finish" is not "accurate", but DANG ME that's BEAUTIFUL! 
Up until now I loved your LM Proteus most of all, but this? This is priceless!


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## Tim H.

Nuts. Absolutely beautiful. But Nuts! ) Top notch solutions throughout especially what you did with the cockpit roof and the lights in the ceiling. It does look a movies set interior. There were no pics but did you do anything with the reactor panel lighting effect? Slick finish on the exterior, much envy.

What was all that floor space behind the pilot chairs for? Cargo, dance floor, space for monster???

Any of those Fantastic Voyage miniaturizer panels floating around?


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## Mark_6478

Holy Smokes... This is a work of art! Beautifully Done Rob... :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Carson Dyle

Tim H. said:


> There were no pics but did you do anything with the reactor panel lighting effect?


Yeah, I used two red-blue-green LED's for the reactor core. Unfortunately I forgot to take decent pix before I sealed up the interior. 

The strobing effect shows up okay through the windows (if you can shield your eyes from the glare of the search lamps, that is).


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## Sonett

Rob,

Your work is breathless! I can only hope my paint job turns out as nice as yours. Thanks for sharing all this pics!

Phil


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## Carson Dyle

So, after you've finished your Flying Sub model, and it's been sitting on the shelf for a couple months, you _really_ don't want walk by one day and see this sort of thing...










Un-freaking-believable. Near as I can figure, I simply applied too many layers of paint to the intake disc. Never mind that the primer and paints were all compatible Tamiya brand lacquers, and that the coats were carefully applied in stages with literally months in between applications to allow for proper curing.

Fortunately the upper disc was the only part effected, and the fix was relatively straight forward (stripping the disc down to bear plastic, I re-masked and re-finished the blue area). 










The fixed version is good as new, but, man, I _so_ did not want to have to spend any more time on this particular model. I guess some projects just have more lessons to teach us than others. Needless to say, I won't be repeating this mistake any time soon.

So let this be a lesson (one I suspect most of you already know without being reminded): *No matter how carefully you prep and coat your surface, if you lay down too many coats it's liable to come back to haunt you.*

If God is merciful, I am now FINISHED with this model.


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## Lloyd Collins

That was shocking to see, for both of us. I am glad it was fixable. 
If it was not fixable, you could have said it was from an accident by a trainee's first trip and he couldn't leave the Seaview without dinging it.


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## Prince of Styrene II

Wow! :freak:

Glad it was fixable, but... wow.


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## bert model maker

How many coats did you put on ?


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## jbond

This is why I never put on too many coats. Actually it's because I'm incredibly lazy, but my utter lack of ambition has paid off in this case.


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## Carson Dyle

bert model maker said:


> How many coats did you put on ?


Well, that particular part had a base coat of grey primer, followed by a serious coating of yellow, and finally a serious coating of blue. 

I probably should have masked the disc off while painting the surrounding hull yellow, but I've never experienced this particular problem before. Given the extended curing time between coats I just didn't think the multiple layers would be an issue. 

Live and learn, I guess.


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## hedorah59

What a nightmare! I'm glad it was a relatively easy fix :thumbsup:


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## GKvfx

jbond said:


> This is why I never put on too many coats. Actually it's because I'm incredibly lazy, but my utter lack of ambition has paid off in this case.


I'm even less ambitious..... my partially built Flying Sub is sitting in the closet.... 

Gene


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## Zorro

I don't know. It had a nice sort of Naugahyde look before you fixed it.


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## WEAPON X

Carson Dyle, You sir were sheer inspiration on this project for sure, 'thank you'! 

click on Project: XFS-38 Searay Flying Sub


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## Carson Dyle

Awesome build!


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## Radiodugger

First I saw Mark Myers'. Then Rob's. Now Weapon X's. I'm starting to get _scared_ of this thing! I have not glued or painted one piece yet. The hulls are together with the front clip in place. I have the interior walls and floor inside. The looks on people's faces when they see it as is...well that tells me a LOT! 

Most of the pix here are deleted, but the ones that are here are astounding! I think I'll go for the VoodooFX light kit. Not sure about the floor. Vinyl or paint...hmmm.

Me, I like the panels for the landing gear and gripper claw. I might cut those out and re-glue them for more realism. I saved all 18 pages for my how-to folder! Thank you Rob! :thumbsup:

Doug


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## Carson Dyle

My pix are still available via my fotobucket. 

Rob McFarlane's Library | Photobucket

There's a lot of other sci-fi related junk there too, so you might have to dig around a bit. The relevant pages are 15 thru 22. It's an awesome kit. Happy building!


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## WEAPON X

Carson Dyle said:


> Awesome build!


Coming from you Rob is a huge honor sir, thank you! :wink2:


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