# Shattered Connecting rod



## matt4976 (Jul 7, 2008)

I have a recently received a Huskee riding mower with a Briggs and Stratton 17.5HP engine. I got it because the engine would not turn over. I took the crank cover off and lo and behold, I found that the connecting rod had shattered (apparently it lost oil pressure, the man that I got it from said that he started it to move it to the house to change the oil and it crapped out) I have looked into replacing the rod but need to replace all the gaskets and possibly the crank as it appears to have a lot of melted aluminum on it. I was told that I would have to take some emery cloth and rope to get it all off and that would take me over 45 minutes and I had to be VERY careful. Then I would have to time the engine right (which I really don't know how to do it). I was told that the easiest option would be to buy a short block for $253. I just want to make sure that this is the best option before I set down that kind of money.
My engine model is 31C777 and type is 0226 code is E1020919ZA. Also does anyone have a Briggs and Stratton part number for the short block, I would like to know if I am being ripped off.
Thank you for your help.


----------



## phillipmc (Jan 27, 2008)

Well if the crank is scored then you will most likely have to replace it. Or spend money to have it machined. Its probably cheapest and best to just get the short block and switch everything over. Wont take as much labor on your behalf either. Good luck and if you run into any problems dont be affraid to ask. Their is a great bunch of people here and none of them including myself mind helping.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

If the crankshaft just has some aluminum on it, it can be cleaned up with emery tape or cloth, just polish it up and get a new connecting rod if there is no other damage in there. You would want to check the cylinder for scoring and the upper crankshaft journal for damage as well. If all that checks out then it would be a lot cheaper to replace the connecting rod and gaskets. The price quoted for a short block sounds good (maybe even cheap) to me. If you want to go that route.


----------



## matt4976 (Jul 7, 2008)

*replies*

First of all thank you so very much for responding so soon!!! I have almost decided on replacing the short block because I really don't want to spend all that time and money trying to get the old block working again when I am unsure that I can get all the metal out of the block, and I don't know how to retime the engine. My next question is do I have to replace the head, because the old head looks ok, but will I have to retime the engine? O think that the man told me that it would come with a head if that were the case then I have no problem doing the swap. I have a puller to get the flywheel off but how do I reinstall it? Do I just bolt it on then torque it down? And lastly can anyone tell me what the torque specs are? And will I really have to torque anything down if the new short block comes with a new head?
Again thank you for all the help! If this works then I will be out of pocket about $300 for a $1000+ lawn mower. 
By the way the mower is a Huskee 17.5 hp 42" mowing deck, and a hydrostatic transmission. The model number is 13AF698G131
Thank you!


----------



## phillipmc (Jan 27, 2008)

To install the flywheel make sure it is clean ( use brake cleaner ( super tec from walmart works great )) put the flywheel on the shaft and line up the key marks Then install the flywheel key. ( I would use a new flywheel key And only a briggs flywheel key or it could damage something later. ) then put the other hardware on for the flywheel in the order it came off it shouldn't be to hard to figure out. The bolts to hold the cooling fins on should be tourqed down to 140 INCH pounds and the nut to hold the flywheel on should be tourqed down to 100 FOOT pounds.


----------



## matt4976 (Jul 7, 2008)

*response*

Again thank you for responding so soon! :thumbsup: A few more questions: I got the flywheel off the old motor and was wondering what is the easiest way to reinstall it? Do I need an impact gun? What is the torque for the head bolts and the valve bolts. Next I think that I should repeat that I have received this mower from a friend and he had already removed the motor from the chassis. I found in the bucket of parts that he gave me the pulley that attaches to the output shaft but I also found what looks like a spacer but I am unsure of where it goes. If anyone could help I would appreciate. Thank you!!!


----------



## phillipmc (Jan 27, 2008)

Look in the previous reply i did for installing the flywheel. As for the heads goes, the head bolts should be tourqed down to i think 220 INCH pounds but not all at once start with 75 INCH pounds then 150 INCH pounds and finally 220 INCH pounds. Do them in a cross squeance opposite ends of the head. I believe the valve clearances are .004 for exhaust and intake. Good luck


----------



## matt4976 (Jul 7, 2008)

Thank you for all your responses. I called the same man that said that he could sell me a short block for $253 and now the owner says that factory is closed for 2 weeks, and I would have to wait until after then to order it. But he said that he had a 15.5hp on an bad lawn mower that runs perfectly fine that he said I can have for $300, so I think that I will be going down that route, it sure would make my life a lot easier. My next question is there anything that I need to take into consideration? 
Thank you again for your help!!!


----------



## phillipmc (Jan 27, 2008)

If the engines are setup te same then it should bolt right on, and everything should plug right up.


----------



## matt4976 (Jul 7, 2008)

*thank you again*

Once again Thank you for helping me may God bless you for taking time out of your life to help me. I bought the 15hp motor yesterday and I had to change the wiring harness which required spicing one wire and fighting with a few odds and ends namely a stubborn exhaust bolt and a seized bearing on the mowing deck, then having to figure out how the transmission idler pulley spring had to be put on the unit. But the mower worked perfectly fine.
Again Thank you for your help!!!


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Glad to hear that you got it going again. You might want to save your old engine if it's the same type, so you will have some spare parts. If you do decide to save it, be sure to drain all the fuel from the carburetor so it won't get gummed up if you need it later.


----------



## matt4976 (Jul 7, 2008)

*More problems*

Hello everybody, It's me again! Thank you for all of you help on my previous problems! I now have a new problem with this mower. I can't seem to get it to turn over. It does one revolution then stops then then turns very slowly and seems to free up and spin. But the process starts all over. I think that it could be a bad battery, because every time that I charge the battery the water starts bubbling out of the vent covers. When I am trying to start the engine after a turn or two the wires at the battery start getting hot and smoking. I think that it is trying to draw more amps than the batter has and is overheating it. Any thoughts would be helpful. 
Thank you.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Remove the valve cover and check the valve lash on your valves. Too much clearance will render the compression release inoperative, this can cause the problem you are experiencing. You may also want to have your battery load tested to see if it is delivering sufficient amperage to operate your starter.


----------

