# controller..here we go again



## stirlingmoss (Aug 24, 2012)

I was told that these work great for both stock afx/aw magnatraction and aw/t-jet cars..
I was also told these are 45 ohm...
anyone have info on this controller?
thanks again!

found this on greg braun ho slot car racing website..
In the interim I recommend the Aurora A/FX Adjustable control instead. It has a full sized handle that fits an adult's hand and is adjustable from 35-70 ohms. It includes a red brake wire just like the Parma.


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

i haven't seen one of those before.


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## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

_...found this on greg braun ho slot car racing website..
In the interim I recommend the Aurora A/FX Adjustable control instead. It has a full sized handle that fits an adult's hand and is adjustable from 35-70 ohms. It includes a red brake wire just like the Parma..._

.
*Mine is the same size as the original AFX mid-size controllers...*









*You can see the adjustable resistor to the left...*









*From the Aurora AFX Road Racing Handbook, Vol. 2...*


















.


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## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

*When ya don't get in yer pitbox for 4 years...*

.
Bad things happen...

Was gonna try to give ohm readings for the various positions...

Found two multi-meters... Both with crusty batteries...
And not a new 9-volt battery to be had...

Oh, well... Try to get work to bring me a new meter*/*battery...

Can anyone else help with a reading... Just curious...



One of the crusty blobs did resemble Elvis, if held at a certain angle, though 

.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

given the schematic, that should be fairly easy to replicate.
I wonder if heat is ever an issue?
if this were really a viable option, why isn't the design being copied in various ways?
Idea is surely good, just look at all the high priced modern controllers with various adjustments!


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## tabcomary (Jun 2, 2010)

*Secondary Resistor*

I suspect that the addition of a second sliding contact caused reliability issues unless it was cleaned regularly. Also, I assume the second resistor is in parallel with the primary resistor. In that case, Aurora's term "sensitivity" is correct. Not only do you change the resistance, but you also change the slope of the Resistance vs. % throttle pull graph. At the extreme settings it may be too sensitive to be practical. Interesting none the less!


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I have one of these controllers, It will run stock t-jets & Maggies OK, the only thing is since the wiper is brass tab and its running across a wire wound resistor you get that bumpy feeling on the trigger. I have changed the resistor to a radio shack 100 ohm model as well and not seen much more control and is actually too slow reacting for the AFX/Maggie. 

For an improvement over this stock type of controller I think a parma 60 ohm with a polished resistor and contact will greatly outperform these controllers and the money is about the same, the handle is well fit into an adult hand.

For kids these Aurora controllers would be an OK setup, but for an adult who is running slots to enjoy the hobby I think you would be much happier with the parma setup, and they are easy to change the resistor so popping a 90 ohm in for your tjets is no big deal and worth the effort. 

Boosted


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

You should be able to get the same result with a standard old-style Aurora Russkit controller, plus a sensitivity control built into the driver's station.

If you can find the values for Aurora's variable resistor, you could use it, or build a version with diodes. Philippe Marchand has a great article on building a sensitivity adjuster (to use Aurora's terminology) from an inexpensive 1-pole/12-position rotary switch and a handful of diodes. And take a look at Phillippe's other electrical articles.

-- D


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## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

.
Thanks for the info and links, Dslot...

May have to give it a try...

John
.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Here's a link to the 100 ohm & the diode brake function that I added to one of the standard controllers.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=297740&highlight=boosted+z71&page=3

Boosted


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## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

Good show, Boosted...

Will definitely spend some time in that thread...

.


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## stirlingmoss (Aug 24, 2012)

So the yellow aurora controller = 45 ohm
Light yellow = 60 ohm
Blue controller = 80 ohms
What is the red controller?
I should just have one for each lane!


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Here is a controller that I modified to have variable resistance. I used a rheostat, rather than a fixed resistor and there is a switch to take the rheostat out of the circuit entirely.










Controllers with resistors wired in parallel will not be linear. The lower the value of the parallel resistor the more non-linear the controller will be. If you add a resistor the controller will act like one with a lower value main resistor at the beginning of the trigger pull and more like one with a greater value than than the original resistor as you pull the trigger more.










Note that you might like the non-linear response.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

stirlingmoss said:


> So the yellow aurora controller = 45 ohm
> Light yellow = 60 ohm
> Blue controller = 80 ohms
> What is the red controller?
> I should just have one for each lane!


Ummmm .... not quite so simple, sorry to say. 

The yellow ones came in at least three different nominal ratings listed on the box - 60, 45, and 35. The 45s seem to be most common.
I put the meter to several of my controllers, and started putting a round sticker on the back with the measured ohm reading. Results:

*Large-Frame Aurora Russkit style*
These have the blade-style triggers (not the freestanding triggers).

*Golden Yellow* - 
2-wire, bare ends - These are usually listed as 45 ohm for AFX, but they also came in nominal 60 and 35 versions, at least. Mine metered all over the map: *55, 53, 40, and 31 ohms*. 
I haven't taken them apart to check the stamping on the resistor's collar.

*Dark Blue* - 
2-wire, bare ends - Usually listed at 80 ohm for Tjets.
The one I tested was bang-on at *80 ohms*.

*Medium (warm) Blue *
(substantially lighter color thnh the usual deep blue ones) -
2-wire, bare ends - Never seen this one mentioned. These two were *80 ohms*. (Does anyone know what sets these were intended for? My T-Jet snowmobile set has medium-blue and white thumb-buster disc controllers; maybe there was a version of that set with the Russkits, but it doesn't seem likely.) 

There was also 
An *Orange *one - 
The one I saw was 3-wire, (brakes). I haven't metered one. (Got one but can't find it.)

A *Red* one -
I think these are seen with both the Aurora name on the side and with the Russkit name on the side. Don't have one of either to measure

I seem to remember a *White or Cream* example (though it may have been a sun-bleached yellow one), and a *Black or Dark Grey* one. And maybe there are others from special sets. (I have seen Shocking Pink AFX power packs, and idly wondered if there were any Hot Pink controllers to go with them. Unlikely, I think.)

I haven't measured and don't know the ratings on the later *small-frame glued-together Aurora Russkits* with the freestanding triggers. With all the grand old fullsized ones available almost for the asking, why bother with the kid-sized ones? Besides - if you have to BREAK it to OPEN it, eff it, sez I.

*Tomy Aurora Small-Frame set controllers*
*Dark Grey*
2-wire, plug-end - Three different controllers measured out at *70 ohm*. They may be toylike and unreliable, but they're _consistent_.
(Actually I think these may be the same unit as the small frame Auroras I just disparaged. Since I bought two big Tomy sets, I have lots. I measured a few, and sawed one apart to use as a test mule for outsourced resistors.

*TYCO Angular Small Frame* -
Usually yellow. These are generally considered to be 70 ohm, but may have variants (I know they have different case colors, but don't know if the color means they have different ohm ratings). I haven't measured any.

Actually, it's often not too hard to swap resistors between different controllers, even different brands. Rick (ParkRNDL) *does a tutorial here* about replacing a trashed resistor in an Aurora-Russkit large frame with a 70-ohm Tyco resistor, and the link to SwamperGene's 100-ohm Radio Shack conversion was mentioned earlier.

One last note: The measured ohms at the output wires will be different from the ohms measured across the resistor, due to added resistance in the metal frame and parts, the wires, and the connections between them. If the difference is too great, you might try cleaning and tightening the slider and resistor and the internal connections, or replacing the wires, perhaps with larger ones. If the slider surface is pitted or gouged, you might try lightly smoothing it with a hobby file or 400 grit sandpaper.

Happy resisting. :wave:

-- D


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Rich Dumas said:


> Here is a controller that I modified to have variable resistance. I used a rheostat, rather than a fixed resistor ...


Rich,
Just to give folks who might like to do the same a place to start, can you give us the ratings for the controller's resistor and the rheostat, and tell us what kind of cars you are running it with?

Thanks,
-- D


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## stirlingmoss (Aug 24, 2012)

I was referring to the large aurora russkit (large button) controllers.
I have seen a red one just curious what the ohm's are.
I run everything but but I'm not racer,i pretty much cruise my ho's as my track resembles a scenic train layout.
I was thinking I could just use a 60 ohm for pretty much everything and just use my p/s to adjust accordingly?
the red one...


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## JD493 (Dec 21, 2015)

So gentlemen, what's the verdict? Parma econo or this adjustable model? Has it been put thru the paces well enough yet? The more I learn, the more trial and error factor in it seems. I don't have access to any to test 1st, so I turn to you guys. 
Buck passed! LOL Please help me choose/decide. 
Since I have a wide variety of chassis types, I'm thinking adjust-ability is a must.
I'm wondering if I'd be better off placing any adjustment option on my drivers station along with my other controls for brakes and voltage adjustment? I'm racing with 2 children THAT CAN NOT NOT PUSH ANY BUTTON or switch any switch. IT"S MADDENING! But it's home and they're my Grandsons. (They own my butt and they know it!!!)
Thanks for the great info guys, JD

It ain't ez being a analog man in a digital world  I'm evolving...ever so slowly......


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

" I'm a cut price person in a low budget land..."
sounds like the adjustable controller will suit your needs for now
go for it


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

yes the adjustable controller!!

when I invented it back in 1936, people were amazed!!
we were able to incorporate into the sherman tank during wwii, the drivers loved it!

Latter on we added to the Apollo rockets and landed on the moon!
today our UAV's use it.

so
any other stories you guys want to hear?:dude:


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## JD493 (Dec 21, 2015)

*Winding your own coils?*

Hey guys.
I was watching a couple people make coils for thier electronic or E-smokes. THey have to deal with very specific resistance values down to the 1/100th ohm. Granted their coils are usually only 4-8 wraps around w/ varying diameter resistance wires.

Has anyone taken a similar diameter tube and wrapped it to build their own custom value coil/controller? What would the requirements be? Does the tube material matter? I know wire size and composition plays a role, but I don't know to what extent or why exactly. I wonder where one would find such info?

I recently bought a lot of crap off ebay and in it was 1 dismantled controller(Stock afx I think). The coil in it wasn't on a tube at all, it looked more like a piece of flat stock aluminum. I'll dig it out and inspect further. I'm also going to try and find more info on this, making coils. Surely there is a site for building your own...
On the other hand, the replacement parts are so cheap... What is our time worth? Inquiring minds want to know . I think it's worth my time just to satisfy my curiosity. I can chuck up a small tube in my drill and just slowly start winding. I'll stop every so many coils and measure the value. I'm not sure what wire to start with though. I don't think the stock coil was even copper wire come to think of it.

Any thoughts or advice?

WD-40 felt tip pen applicator. I found 1 of these in my junk drawer this week, I don't remember buying it. It looks perfect for applying to track rails w/o the mess of spray or rags. Has anyone seen or tried this? Do many people use this(WD-40) for track maint.? Just curious.

Have a great weekend! JD


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

The main resistor is 45 ohms, the rheostat is 500 ohms. I have the rheostat marked off to give 40, 38 and 33 ohms at the beginning of the trigger pull. I never use that controller with the rheostat in the circuit, in fact I always use an electronic controller if I have a choice. I don't like the way the controller feels when the rheostat is turned up, but that does not mean the someone else wouldn't like it.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

The wire used for wire wound resistors is nichrome. The best thing to use for the core is a tubular ceramic material, that is an insulator and can take a great deal of heat.


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