# The Environmental Control Robot is taking control of my environment!



## Chrisisall

I've now joined the club. I've got two on the table for a client, and one on the way for myself. 
I clearly need more space.:freak:



One will be season 1, the other season 3, both will light up & talk. I haven't decided about my own one yet.

Washin' the parts...


More to come...


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## Seaview

Just out of curiosity, what do you soak them in and for how long? I use Ivory liquid and just wash and rinse parts in the sink like dishes, myself.


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## Chrisisall

Same here, just regular dishwashing liquid. I'm soaking it for an hour, then rinsing in the sink, then air dry. Some people like stronger stuff to be sure, but I thinks it's overkill.


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## sjohn385

I use regular dish washing liquid too and a toothbrush. Works fine to me.


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## Zombie_61

I use undiluted Simple Green. Spray it on, let the parts sit for a few minutes, scrub with an old toothbrush, rinse, and let them air dry. It might be overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


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## Chrisisall

Zombie_61 said:


> I use undiluted Simple Green. Spray it on, let the parts sit for a few minutes, scrub with an old toothbrush, rinse, and let them air dry. It might be overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


I do the finger-squeek-test after rinsing; all the parts passed easily, even the vinyl which I _expected_ to need a second washing.



Good to go after a little evaporation!:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Zombie_61 said:


> I use undiluted Simple Green. Spray it on, let the parts sit for a few minutes, scrub with an old toothbrush, rinse, and let them air dry. It might be overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


WOW dude, was I wrong! After drying, I could see & feel the release agent still on. Simple Green here I come. My 'squeek' test was worthless. 
Thanks man.:thumbsup:


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## Zombie_61

You're very welcome! Just a suggestion--wear eye protection if you plan on scrubbing vigorously. Simple Green is non-toxic and biodegradable, but it still stings if it gets in your eyes.


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## djnick66

Krud Kutter in a pump sprayer is really good. Very handy stuff to have on your work bench.


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## John P

I... just glue the parts together and paint them.


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## Chrisisall

John P said:


> I... just glue the parts together and paint them.


I'll admit to generally doing the same, but for clients or special builds, I'll go the distance.


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## Chrisisall

So it begins. My take so far- it's okay Chinese styrene (sorry, I'm still in love with the more rigid US styrene from days past) that requires a little bit of extra flash attention & sanding. Tiny threads of crap need to be gently brushed away after. But it's worth it for the excellent detail.:thumbsup:


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## Moderbuilderzero

Chris,
Don't damage those lovely Airwolf papers underneath! That would be sacrilege!:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Chris,
> Don't damage those lovely Airwolf papers underneath! That would be sacrilege!:thumbsup:


What? It's printed off da internet.

Just beginning, glued the main tread halves (have to paint the insides before I put on the outer plates), and was going over the torso connection and I don't get the instructions. Leave a SEAM in the middle of the rotation ring? Oh, hell no. That's got to be an error. I'll glue it like this,

cut off the lower placement studs, and go from there.


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## RSN

Actually, the ring did not rotate on the Robot costume, only the torso above it. You need to leave the locator pins on the ring as is and glue the ring together but DON'T glue it to the torso!! Then just put the torso pin through the ring of the waist plate, gluing the ring to said waste plate ONLY, as the instructions indicate, and put the cap on the end of the pin as the instructions indicate. Your torso will now rotate exactly like the one on the show. that is how I have done mine with no problems!!


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## Chrisisall

RSN said:


> Actually, the ring did not rotate on the Robot costume, only the torso above it.


Just checked the DVD's; you are correct sir. Thanks!!:thumbsup:


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## starmanmm

Interesting on the washing ideas.... I use purple power but diluted in water about 50/50 mix.


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## Chrisisall

My Son gave me the OK to make mine first season again, and I'm REAL tempted to go fully B&W like I did on my Cyclops diorama.

Still, no colour at _all_?

Hmmmm... still time to ponder.


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## LGFugate

I'm with John - Cut the pieces off the sprue, clean up any flash and the former attachment points, glue the parts togeter, (remove any seams), then paint. Most of my kits are painted with craft paints, so I have to use a primer before using them, but that's it. I've never had a problem with mold release before, but I don't rule out any such happenings in the future.

Larry


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## Chrisisall

LGFugate said:


> I've never had a problem with mold release before, but I don't rule out any such happenings in the future.


Larry, I found this kit to be fairly 'oily' when washing. But just wiping it with a tissue would probably work for most folk, I guess.

Robot factory in gear:


I love the smell of styrene & glue in the evening! Smells like... victory!


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## starmanmm

I have picked up the electronics but I have yet to pick up the kit. :freak:


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## Chrisisall

starmanmm said:


> I have picked up the electronics but I have yet to pick up the kit. :freak:


My LHS has one, but that's about 60 miles west of you...
This kit is awesome. Moebius rocked this one.

More busy on my table:


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## Zathros

*I built mine right out of the box, with no special preparations, save getting rid of the tread and claw seams..I had no problems whatsoever..came out great for me.


Z*


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## Chrisisall

Zathros said:


> *I built mine right out of the box, with no special preparations, save getting rid of the tread and claw seams..I had no problems whatsoever..came out great for me.
> *


Obviously, GREAT work!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Taking out seams is tedious, but it has to be done. Fine grit in circular motions...


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## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> My LHS has one, but that's about 60 miles west of you...
> This kit is awesome. Moebius rocked this one.
> 
> More busy on my table:


You are busy, three builds at one time, you have stamina and then some......:thumbsup:


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## starmanmm

Chrisisall wrote:


> My LHS has one, but that's about 60 miles west of you...


Ah... SpareTime?


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## Dave in RI

Heh, I know Spare Time! I used to make the trek about once a month years back when gas prices weren't so high. Now I go maybe three times a year-- especially around my birthday to take advantage of their birthday discount. The owner seems OK if a little nutty. I remember he'd be going up and down the aisles putting kits away and whatnot, all the while talking up a storm in one of those ear-type phones. It looked liked he was ranting at himself if you didn't know better.


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## Chrisisall

starmanmm said:


> Chrisisall wrote:
> Ah... SpareTime?


Oops, I think I should have said more like 90 miles, Pioneer Valley Hobbies in West Springfield. Great store.


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## Fiver

Chrisisall said:


> I've now joined the club. I've got two on the table for a client, and one on the way for myself.
> I clearly need more space.:freak:


 This is a good idea; building a couple for clients to finance my own!

Pax,

Fiver


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## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> You are busy, three builds at one time, you have stamina and then some......:thumbsup:


Just being systematic, like a (model-making) Terminator.


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## DCH10664

Well at least you got a swift looking phaser handy in case of a robot rebellion ! :tongue:


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## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> Well at least you got a swift looking phaser handy in case of a robot rebellion ! :tongue:


That is peripheral to the creations at hand. 
And Gumby is my Red Shirt.


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## DCH10664

Chrisisall said:


> That is peripheral to the creations at hand.
> And Gumby is my Red Shirt.


Poor Gumby ! I'm assuming Pokey is already taking a dirt nap,.....That is if Godzilla didn't eat him ! :tongue:


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## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> I'm assuming Pokey is already taking a dirt nap,.....That is if Godzilla didn't eat him ! :tongue:


*Little bald kid from Matrix voice* There _is_ no Pokey.

Puttying the canyons:


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## Chrisisall

Lords of Kobol, the sanding I had to do! I finished the brutal stuff, minor re-putty & fine sanding next (not as bad).


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## Fiver

Three at once!

You'll be lucky if you aren't sick of this of this by the time you finish! On the other hand; you will certainly know how everything goes together.

Rock on!

Pax,

Fiver


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## Chrisisall

Fiver said:


> Three at once!
> You'll be lucky if you aren't sick of this of this by the time you finish!


One is for me (it's also my 'tester') and the other two are for a client. His will be lit & talk; mine will stand there & look nice.


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## steve123

I don't see any paint yet. I think you dismissed my warning about mold release too quickly..lol.
my second one did the same thing. I always figure my butt is the closest one to kick when something happens with a build, but both the B9s are doing it. The squeak thing is my guage too, but it might need some adjustment.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I don't see any paint yet. I think you dismissed my warning about mold release too quickly..lol.


Oh no, I just thought one wash would do it. Some larger parts & all the vinyl I washed twice.


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## steve123

The thing is you won't know untill you shoot the paint.

My tamiya primer fisheyed in certain places and after I got that fire put out,
The color coat might fisheye in a spot nearby. 

I have no hair left...

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> The thing is you won't know untill you shoot the paint.
> My tamiya primer fisheyed in certain places and after I got that fire put out,
> The color coat might fisheye in a spot nearby.


We fight the good fight!:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Taking the time for the little things now; fine sanding of the front collar & ear seams/flash...


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## steve123

Remember you are gonna need more cowbell,..oops, I mean texture...lol

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Remember you are gonna need more cowbell,..oops, I mean texture...lol


That's what Liquitex acrylic spray is for.
To touch God.


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## steve123

Ok, Michaelangelo, you shot any paint yet? Or are you in conclave with the pope?..FYI they never pay what they say they will...lol 

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Ok, Michaelangelo,


 Oh, you like the version I made? I got an A on that btw.


> you shot any paint yet?


Nope. I'm taking my artistic time with this build(s). I'd be happy just tossing mine together, but my client is a Prince, and I shall treat him royally.


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## steve123

Yeah, but Princes get antsy...they cut funding, make a few calls to the pope..and where are you then? under threat of excommunication, without a piaster..and wondering if the merchants of Venice will pay better...I've heard it a thousand times..pretty soon you are in your gondola heading for a bridge aboutment..oops I mean archway..

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Silly silly British man.


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## steve123

Do you have a flag? No flag no country...

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Do you have a flag?


Not a Buffy fan, I take it?


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## steve123

Eddie Izzard.


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## Zombie_61

Funny how God sounds so much like James Mason.


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## Chrisisall

This seam in the feet is a biotch, but other than that, I've *NEVER* worked on a kit that needed like ZERO modifications OOTB like THIS!


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## Seaview

"Fah! Pish tish!" Squadron White Putty, swab with a Q-tip soaked in nail polish remover. Wait 12 hours, and break out the old sanding sticks and develop carpal tunnel syndrome while sanding away. Then you can say, "Foot seams? WHAT foot seams?" :hat:


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## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> "Fah! Pish tish!" Squadron White Putty, swab with a Q-tip soaked in nail polish remover. Wait 12 hours, and break out the old sanding sticks and develop carpal tunnel syndrome while sanding away.


I'm using Milliput.


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## steve123

OOOH, nailpolish remover..Thanks Seaview! I tried isopropyl alchohol and ..nutting..That's great advice.

I made both kits to have opening soil sampler doors..that didn't help with seam fixing...lol

With milliput a wet finger should do it. and if not ,the wet finger in your ear is a quick pick-me -up...lol

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Cutting, sanding...


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## steve123

Nice job it's tough cutting the voice thingy cut out without loseing the tiny lower part..ask me how I know...lol

You are getting closer to a larger world.....

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Nice job it's tough cutting the voice thingy cut out without losing the tiny lower part


Yeah, times 3:


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## Zombie_61

steve123 said:


> OOOH, nailpolish remover...


Be sure to use the kind with an acetone base; the non-acetone nail polish remover won't work any better than tap water.


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## Chrisisall

Stuck in research mode: basically, the third season Robot will be straight Starling (with lighting mods), the season one some combo with another blank unit to include other phrases & sounds from the first season. This will be quite the challenge; I suddenly feel like an electronics sculptor...:freak:


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## steve123

Thanks Zombie.. I'm going to put and eddie izzard dvd in tonight..been that kinda week.. I'd love to hear what he has to say about the crap going on this year..lol

Chris, you ain't done yet?... get your thumbs out and finish _one_ of them...lol

Then he will build the other two...worked for me

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Chris, you ain't done yet?... get your thumbs out and finish _one_ of them...lol


I need them to be perfect- I ain't rushing it. 50% of my builds happen in my head first. I love this Robot.:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Case in point: how annoying is this??
(It's on all three kits)


Attack!


Much better.

I'm a detail guy.


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## steve123

All that stuff comes off fast with 220 grit. some fine white primer and some wet sanding.
Did you notice it's only on one side?.. 


That is actually where Bob May rested his coffee cup...you should have left that..lol

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Did you notice it's only on one side?..


Yep. It's my job to notice stuff.:thumbsup:


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## steve123

I noticed that...lol

I just fix the stuff, I don't see nuttin.
I just got an e mail from some guy in africa.. I'll never need to build another kit again..as soon as I send him my bank info...lol


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> I noticed that...lol
> 
> I just fix the stuff, I don't see nuttin.
> I just got an e mail from some guy in africa.. I'll never need to build another kit again..as soon as I send him my bank info...lol


I'm rich myself. Made my fortune in time travel ventures. I just do this model stuff for fun.:drunk:


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## Genos

Chris,

If only client's robots are to be lit, then why did you cut the neon backing plate out on all 3 robots?

Sounds like requirements creep to me. 

Gene


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## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> Chris,
> 
> If only client's robots are to be lit, then why did you cut the neon backing plate out on all 3 robots?


I decided to light my own as well seeing as it's not going to be as difficult as I first thought. Plus, at that point I still wasn't sure, so I used my piece as a test for the cut to see if it could be done easily without breaking it.


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## steve123

It's any easy addition. and it adds that coolness that we geeks need.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Update: Guys, this is the most challenging model of my career. This is my entire _childhood_ in one kit. I'm weighing possibilities, testing ideas, my God, I've put this together 3 different ways in my head already... factoring in paint durability, shine vs. dull, realistically imperfect vs. ideal as in memory... in the next couple of weeks as I dive in deeper, I will make hard choices very quickly. I'm terrified! 
*EXCELLENT!!*:thumbsup:


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## steve123

You are gonna lose the parts that way. Put them back in the box or I'm never buying you one of those things again!

_Honestly honey, why do we buy him things then let him scatter all the pieces all over the house?...Mrs. Smaels says when her son was like this they took him and got that electro shock stuff. Oh he's fine now, very quiet, just sits and hums.._

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> You are gonna lose the parts that way. Put them back in the box or I'm never buying you one of those things again!


LOL, all parts inventoried and accounted for sir!


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## steve123

If you lose something let me know I always seem to have a ton of parts leftover for some reason..._.let's see...lower legs, bubble...claws... these thingies.. doo dads_

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> If you lose something let me know I always seem to have a ton of parts leftover for some reason..._.let's see...lower legs, bubble...claws... these thingies.. doo dads_


Thanks Steve, but any part I may lose I can always fabricate from scratch.:thumbsup: I'm a one man 3D printer that way.:lol:


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## steve123

There is a guy next door trying to build one, if I lose something I just sneak over...wait till he is watching LIS then he falls asleep...mountain dew drool coming out of his ...

I'll stop. 

Steve


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## DCH10664

Chrisisall said:


> Update: Guys, this is the most challenging model of my career. This is my entire _childhood_ in one kit. I'm weighing possibilities, testing ideas, my God, I've put this together 3 different ways in my head already... factoring in paint durability, shine vs. dull, realistically imperfect vs. ideal as in memory... in the next couple of weeks as I dive in deeper, I will make hard choices very quickly. I'm terrified!
> *EXCELLENT!!*:thumbsup:


Decisions decisions decisions ! I feel your pain bro, lol. I know for me this is my Holy Grail of model kits. The one I've been waiting forever to see made. But now that I have my hands on it. What to do with it ???
Do I want all the bells and whistles ? Yes. Do I want it to look like perfection ? Yes. But then again, what is the perfect colors, etc.

I finally decided that I'm not going to stress over all the tiny details. At least not right now. I have three of these kits on my shelf. I can stress later.
For right now, I'm just going to take my time building a straight out of the box version. And paint it how I remember it. Even if my memories don't match exactly how it looked on TV. I'm just going to enjoy my build of a kit I've waited so long to see made.


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## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> I know for me this is my Holy Grail of model kits. The one I've been waiting forever to see made.


I thought I was happy with my Masudaya kit from 1990, but I was merely content.
THIS is the one. 
Thank Moebius.


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## DCH10664

Chrisisall said:


> I thought I was happy with my Masudaya kit from 1990, but I was merely content.
> THIS is the one.
> Thank Moebius.


Unfortunately for us B9 fans. We have had to sort of grin and bear it for some time when it comes to the details of our favorite bubble head.
I can even remember as a kid with my Remco Robot. I thought to myself, "Did these people (the makers) even watch the TV show before trying to make this toy ???" But still I was content to have a toy that somewhat resembled my favorite robot.
Now we don't have to be merely content anymore.


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## steve123

Here is the pic I was looking for chris. It's also in the tutorial.
Sound board is down in the legs like you figured.










Steve


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## Chrisisall

Thanks Steve!:thumbsup:


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## steve123

No problem. I took almost 200 pics of that build you'd think I'd remember how I placed stuff.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> No problem. I took almost 200 pics of that build you'd think I'd remember how I placed stuff.


Me too- I had to look at pictures of MY last Robot to answer a simple question on another thread. We make it up as we go, I guess.


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## Chrisisall

Still taking care of residual seam issues while testing new auxiliary sound units I just received today.


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## Captain Han Solo

That's looking good Chris!


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## Chrisisall

Captain Han Solo said:


> That's looking good Chris!


I know I'm moving like molasses on this one, but it's so important to me to get these just right.


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## Chrisisall

Finished my third round on the tread seams; starting on the brain construction. Light blocking & painting will be painstaking, but it'll be worth it.


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## Lou Dalmaso

you know... BigDAWGS should just go ahead and market those as robot sound boards.

what was your secret to get rid of the ugly foot seams?


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## Chrisisall

Lou Dalmaso said:


> what was your secret to get rid of the ugly foot seams?


Sand/Milliput/sand/Milliput/sand/primer/sand...:freak:


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## Fernando Mureb

Chrisisall said:


> Sand/Milliput/sand/Milliput/sand/primer/sand...:freak:


Eh, eh, eh... wow! Now, THIS is a great secret. :wave:


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Eh, eh, eh... wow! Now, THIS is a great secret. :wave:


The actual secret is planning what to do after all that in your mind so that the boring endless stuff goes quicker.:tongue:
Hey- I found this cool picture of the Robot next to the stunt Robot- I've never seen it B4.


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## Chrisisall

Every claw had to be finely sanded to remove the 'low spots' near the end of the pincers. No big deal, it's a common styrene injection thing.


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## Chrisisall

OMG! I was test-fitting the claw assemblies and JUST NOTICED the idiot pins! That all & the little holes, must go. I'll have to prime tomorrow.


Also, I was playing with the idea of putting really weak rubber bands on the backs of the claws so that after assembly they'd stay closed unless opened to hold something in a photo or whatever. Thoughts?


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## steve123

They fit tight enough once assembled that they stay closed or open as you pose them.

Steve


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## Chrisisall

Thanks Steve. All sanded & primed. Paint tomorrow.


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## Chrisisall

A Robot birthday cake-?


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## Seaview

Actually, I think you'll need to use those small rubber bands anyway, because it was the pegs you removed and the holes you filled in that permits the claws to stay in the closed position once installed. Oh, well, you learn by experience, so it's all good. :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> Actually, I think you'll need to use those small rubber bands anyway, because it was the pegs you removed and the holes you filled in that permits the claws to stay in the closed position once installed. Oh, well, you learn by experience, so it's all good. :thumbsup:


I'd take 'em out again knowing that- they looked terrible when open that way.


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## steve123

Nah. The pivot pins are still there. The friction fit will hold them in position. if the other pins were still there the claws wouldn't move.
I'm on my second one this is how I know. Rubber bands... humbug

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> Nah. The pivot pins are still there. The friction fit will hold them in position.


Yeah, it seems like it, especially with a couple of coats of paint on 'em.


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## steve123

I bought a big box of rubber bands a few month ago. Lots of modeling uses, I can hold things together, use them as a compress, shoot rocks at my adversaries..you get the picture. But the are all dried out and dead now. never put something in a build that isn't going to last 20 years unless you give it to your mother in law...lol

She loves the Sling shot I got her..soon after she asked for a large pic of me..who knew she liked me that much?

Steve


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## Chrisisall

steve123 said:


> never put something in a build that isn't going to last 20 years


Much truth in that!


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## woof359

*wheels*

when the time comes its the wheels molded to the treads that got me worried about masking and painting


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## Chrisisall

woof359 said:


> when the time comes its the wheels molded to the treads that got me worried about masking and painting


You'll have to paint the inner parts before final assembly, then creatively mask off the openings if you want to spray paint the outer bits. Then hand paint the treads- first with enamel & later with acrylic. That's my plan at any rate.


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## Chrisisall

I am SO SICK of Massachusetts weather. For a brief time three days ago I was able to test coat a silver-painted claw with semi-gloss lacquer & it turned out fine, then the rain, wind & wind. 

*vent over*


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## Zombie_61

I *WISH* we'd get some rain. Barely the second week of April and it was 105°F here in Cali today.


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## Chrisisall

Round FOUR on the tread seams. Squadron putty to take care of the really small residual bits:


That about does it. Still windy, but not so much I can't prime a bit.
Insides painted silver. When that dries I'll do the black inside of the treads. Gotta cover all angles...


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## Seaview

It took about 4 coats of Squadron white putty and sanding sessions for me to completely eliminate those seams, also. 
I see that you are doing a few in the first season paint job, and the rest in the second/third season paint job. I'm wondering if anybody is going to do a "Golden Boy" paint job. It was a one episode event, but you have to admit, very eye-catching.


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## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> I'm wondering if anybody is going to do a "Golden Boy" paint job. It was a one episode event, but you have to admit, very eye-catching.


Nah, C3PO & Johnny 5 (at the end of the 2nd movie) have ruined the gold look for robots.:jest:

Back in hyperdrive.


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## Chuck Eds

Hey Chris, nice work so far! Three at once though, how's your sanity holding up?? Should be some good painting weather coming up...


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## Chrisisall

Not happy with how the pins aligned the feet, nor that they were so visible, so I took 'em out.

Then I painted edges, and formed _stable_ separators from sheet styrene & blacked those edges. 





Happier now.


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## Chrisisall

Chuck Eds said:


> Hey Chris, nice work so far! Three at once though, how's your sanity holding up??


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAxFc1k-2wA
OOh baby, it's makin' me crazy... HAHA


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## RSN

Actually, the bolt that holds the tread sections together is quite visible on the actual Robot costume.


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## Chrisisall

RSN said:


> Actually, the bolt that holds the tread sections together is quite visible on the actual Robot costume.


Easy enough to add it back in.Thanks RSN! :thumbsup:


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## starmanmm

Pretty good build... and still have not bought the kit.


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## Chrisisall

starmanmm said:


> Pretty good build... and still have not bought the kit.


What are you waiting for dude? This kit is awesome. And not that expensive considering the outcome. Tread seams aside, it's easy as pie.
So, I had to saw apart the tread sections because the space between was a full mm too wide, but it all worked out. Heh more sanding. My thing.


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## Chrisisall

Still taking care of minor but noticeable seams.


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## Chrisisall

The claws are prone to being out of alignment when closed without the annoying-looking pegs I removed...

So I made simple place-holders...

Darkened the edges...

And glued them in place.



It seems to work.:thumbsup:


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## Seaview

Even with the pegs in place and the location holes still in place, the claws still don't line up anyway, so you're doing fine. Incidentally, I'm building my third at present. :hat:


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## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> you're doing fine.


 Thanks!


> Incidentally, I'm building my third at present. :hat:


Which season version?


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## Seaview

My second "First season" version. Incidentally, Testors rattlecan #1453, "Metallic Magnesium Spray Buff" is an excellent choice for the torso and waist ring for this version, with Tamiya "Mica Silver" for the middle of the torso section, 'knee plates" and foot sections. :wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> My second "First season" version.


I have to admit to having fun makin' a third season one for my client. So pretty in colour. But _mine_ will always be a first season.:thumbsup:


----------



## hamiltonpl

After looking at these pictures - I am seriously thinking about making mine a SEASON one B9.

What paints have you found that better represent that for the torso/treadsections/claws? 

Those painted claws look really good.


----------



## Chrisisall

hamiltonpl said:


> What paints have you found that better represent that for the torso/treadsections/claws?


Same acrylic aluminum Liquitex I used on my Masudaya I'm thinking. Gives that ever-so-slight texture I'm after (claws got regular paint & a lacquer semi for the silver).

Wow, these little cuffs took a LOT longer than I expected; a freakin' SEAM all around each and every one!!


----------



## Genos

*Season 2 or Season 3*

Chris,

For your non-season 1 build(s), do you plan to have to have a season 2 or season 3 wrist/cuffs? The season 2 wrist insert/plate appears to be a lighter shade of gray than the cuffs, where as the season 3 wrist plate and cuffs appear to be about the same shade.

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> For your non-season 1 build, do you plan to have to have a season 2 or season 3 wrist/cuffs?


Season 3, and I have to do some more research because I believe the legs/arms were a little darker than season 1.


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> Season 3, and I have to do some more research because I believe the legs/arms were a little darker than season 1.


Chris,

Agreed, I believe the legs in Season 3 were the darkest. In some ways, the robot appears to be aging backwards in the series. :freak: The legs and arms appear to be newer and deeper/richer in tone. The wrist/cuffs appear to freshly painted. In some of the earlier episodes the torso appears to be rougher and to have puttied patches and in the latter episodes the finish is more refined. 

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

I think for the first season they were rushing to get the Robot ready for the additions to the pilot that was filmed. Hence some roughness in spots.


----------



## Chrisisall

So I'm doing tests for the first season look to the legs. I aimed a fairly strong hair dryer at the centre section for like, A LOT of minutes, and it surely got soft, but not enough to manipulate at all. This is tough stuff. 

Flame would melt it, but also certainly create holes. 
My next test will probably be cutting it, and shrink-wrapping clear plastic wrap to it to create the proper look, then the painting. Still considering other possibilities though, cutting is kinda permanent. 
This testing is being done on my personal build so that I can apply it successfully to my client's.
I'll keep you first-season dudes posted. :thumbsup:


----------



## Y3a

How about holding a soldering iron near the plastic?


----------



## Seaview

Here's a thought; try a heating experiment, such as holding a soldering iron near it, with a spare "extended" arm. If it gets holes in it or is otherwise damaged, you can toss it out without worry. :dude:
You remember the one TOS maniac did a couple of months ago? I wonder how he melted the leg sections.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=411285


----------



## Chrisisall

Seaview said:


> You remember the one TOS maniac did a couple of months ago?


Hmm, yeah. But I want to mold it a bit- he just collapsed it. I think I ill try flame after all, just light brushes. 
I'll be back.:thumbsup:


----------



## Paulbo

What about boiling water?


----------



## Chrisisall

Paulbo said:


> What about boiling water?


Good idea; I will try that before flame.:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Quick but maybe obvious little reminder: take these tabs out

They are REAL visible (see the left one)


----------



## Dave in RI

Paulbo said:


> What about boiling water?


Be wary using boiling water

I once had the bright idea of using boiling water to "relax" some vinyl tracks for a Tiger tank that had become creased. Just a moment in the water turned the tracks into shriveled bacon.


----------



## Chrisisall

Dave in RI said:


> Just a moment in the water turned the tracks into shriveled bacon.


Thanks for the warning, I could see it happening all too easily. I'm still working up the gumption to try the flame...


----------



## Dave in RI

The only thing I can think of that you can use with a fair amount of control is a heating gun. More heat than a hair dryer, but not as hot as a flame. I don't know if you can rent one of those at a place like Home Depot or not. Or perhaps someone you know may have one to borrow.


----------



## Chrisisall

Dave in RI said:


> a heating gun.


Now THAT'S an idea! I'll look into it!:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> Now THAT'S an idea! I'll look into it!:thumbsup:


http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

A heat gun is what I used to fix the large separation the bottom of the legs
had, easy to control the amount of softening you want in the vinyl. Here is one at Harbor Freight that won't break the bank.....

P.S. Great work on the tri-build.....:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Thanks!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## jimkirk

This one is a pretty good deal.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Kawasak...261?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2f742c15
I bought a similar one and it's nice to have the case to store it and the accessories in.


----------



## DCH10664

Looking good Chris ! And thanks for the tip on that collar. That's something I may have overlooked.
Can't believe you tackled three of these at once. I'm still having a fit with the tread section seams on mine :freak:


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> I'm still having a fit with the tread section seams on mine :freak:


They are a biotch.:freak:


----------



## Chrisisall

Just a table pic- getting the chest light prepped.

Random test-fit to excite myself:


----------



## Dave in RI

teslabe said:


> http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
> 
> A heat gun is what I used to fix the large separation the bottom of the legs
> had, easy to control the amount of softening you want in the vinyl. Here is one at Harbor Freight that won't break the bank.....
> 
> P.S. Great work on the tri-build.....:thumbsup:



WOW! I just looked at the heat gun in teslabe's link:

1500 Watt Dual Temperature Heat Gun (572°/1112°)

That's MUCH hotter than I thought it would be. It gets hotter than a flame, doesn't it?


----------



## jimkirk

Dave in RI said:


> WOW! I just looked at the heat gun in teslabe's link:
> 
> 1500 Watt Dual Temperature Heat Gun (572°/1112°)
> 
> That's MUCH hotter than I thought it would be. It gets hotter than a flame, doesn't it?


That is typical for heat guns.


----------



## DCH10664

Heaven knows I'm no expert on heating vinyl. But considering how bad it would suck to mess up a set of legs. I think I would start with a hair dryer. And maybe even make some kind of nozzle where I could focus the hot air into a small point.
A tube could be made with cardboard. Lining it with aluminum foil. Then fit the tube over the nozzle of the hair dryer. Then at the end of the tube make funnel or cone shape with a small hole. This would let you focus the air where you want it. JMHO.


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> This would let you focus the air where you want it. JMHO.


Good thought, but my particular hair dryer seems to have this strange focal point about an inch from the nozzle where all the hot is centred, then it splays out from there, so I already have it without the cardboard addition. And I mean I got the vinyl as hot as it could get. I use the dryer to melt styrene, which it's good at, so this vinyl is some bada*s stuff.
Or my hair dryer is just weak...:lol:


----------



## DCH10664

Chrisisall said:


> Good thought, but my particular hair dryer seems to have this strange focal point about an inch from the nozzle where all the hot is centred, then it splays out from there, so I already have it without the cardboard addition. And I mean I got the vinyl as hot as it could get. I use the dryer to melt styrene, which it's good at, so this vinyl is some bada*s stuff.
> Or my hair dryer is just weak...:lol:


Wow ! I guess I underestimated the vinyl. I would have thought a hair dryer would be enough to do the job. Guess that leaves no alternative but a heat gun.


----------



## Trek Ace

Exercise caution with obstructing the airflow too much from a hair dryer, it can cause a backup of heat internally and burn out the main heating elements.


----------



## Chrisisall

Just got the ParaGrafix photo etch, I am very impressed! This is awesome. Easy to work with, cuts well, sands well.

And the lower window grills are way more accurate.


----------



## Paulbo

Well, that was quick.


----------



## jimkirk

Paulbo said:


> Well, that was quick.


That's what she said.


----------



## Chrisisall

jimkirk said:


> That's what she said.


Silly silly British man.:tongue:


----------



## jimkirk

Chrisisall said:


> Silly silly British man.:tongue:


Sorry I don't get it?


----------



## Chrisisall

jimkirk said:


> Sorry I don't get it?


I guess you never saw the final episode of Buffy, eh? It's a hysterical Andrew line. 
Nevermind.:wave:


----------



## jimkirk

Chrisisall said:


> I guess you never saw the final episode of Buffy, eh? It's a hysterical Andrew line.
> Nevermind.:wave:


Nope. Never watched the show.


----------



## Richard Baker

Back to the photoetch...
Looking forward to seeing how it works with your build, he does excellent work!


----------



## Paulbo

Chrisisall said:


> ...And the lower window grills are way more accurate...


I almost didn't include that because the production etch was very different from what I got with my test shot. It's OK, but I did some work with expanded metal so I really know the pattern and understand it from how it's made.

Funky process - starts with straight sheet metal and then slots (not holes) are cut into it. The sheet is then pulled and the metal deforms to make the pattern. Running through a set of rollers flattens it out again.

It sounds weird, but the tooling is so much less expensive than the couple of other operations.


----------



## Paulbo

Richard Baker said:


> Back to the photoetch...
> Looking forward to seeing how it works with your build, he does excellent work!


Thank you, Richard.


----------



## liskorea317

Paulbo said:


> Thank you, Richard.


I ordered two sets from CultTVman today. Can't wait to get them!


----------



## DCH10664

Oh Cool ! I've been waiting to see what you do with the PhotoEtch. And I like that he included the Robot B9 tag. Will go well on the base I have planned for mine.


----------



## DCH10664

Well I drop in to see if there's any progress. And find cob webs growing on this thread ! So here I sit all lonely and thinking to myself out loud !

So where the heck is Chris ? I hope he didn't mishandle one of his own phasers and shoot himself in the foot !

Maybe real life just got in the way of serious model building ?,.....sucks when that happens.

Or maybe his Environmental Control Robots, really did take over his environment. And they have him tied to a chair and are holding him hostage ! Geez, that would be terrible.

Well if he don't show up soon. I will put out an A.P.B. on him. :tongue:


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> So where the heck is Chris ?


Right here, just having solved major car problems preventing me from getting my paint & stuff to continue, but presently in the midst of really not-so-fun neck spasms due to scoliosis aggravated by years of too-enthusiastic stunt work.:freak::wave:

Last night I finished prepping the ParaGrafix etch. 


Bending & priming & painting & attachment is next. 
Hard to concentrate on fine details with pain, but I *am* workin' on it. 
Thanks for the interest!:thumbsup:


----------



## DCH10664

I understand. My wife has scoliosis. It gives her fits at times. Hope you get to feeling better. :wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> Hope you get to feeling better. :wave:


Always do at some point. Your Wife have it badly? I just have 'rough patches'. Some have it worse. Hope she ain't one...


----------



## DCH10664

That's her for the most part. She has some rough patches. Especially when she pushes herself too hard. She don't want to accept she isn't 21 anymore and needs to slow down a little.


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> She don't want to accept she isn't 21 anymore and needs to slow down a little.


I'm 33 past 21, and I still have a hard time slowin' down, until the pain makes me for a spell.
Please pass on my compliments to your Misses for her continued fight against periodic lack of free & easy motion. I'll fight it to the end my own self.:wave:


----------



## liskorea317

Chrisisall said:


> I'm 33 past 21, and I still have a hard time slowin' down, until the pain makes me for a spell.
> Please pass on my compliments to your Misses for her continued fight against periodic lack of free & easy motion. I'll fight it to the end my own self.:wave:


Which we all hope doesn't happen for many many years!


----------



## harrier1961

I have a question for those who have Paul's set.
When I do get the Robot kit, since I am not planning on lighting it, is the etch set worth it?

I really don't do photo etch, but if the set is still worth using, I would like to get it.

Andy.


----------



## Chrisisall

harrier1961 said:


> I really don't do photo etch, but if the set is still worth using, I would like to get it.


It's a nice addition that adds a three dimensional look to the brain, so yeah, I'd get it even if not lighting. Just my two cents.


----------



## Chrisisall

Yeah, this is pretty close.

:thumbsup:


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> Yeah, this is pretty close.
> 
> :thumbsup:


Can I assume you are cutting the tubing for the finger light rods? Are you going to be using fiber optics to light them? If yes, what diameter? 

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

Yes and yes. 1.57 mm, any thinner and the FO strand wouldn't fit.


----------



## Genos

>>>>"Are you going to be using fiber optics to light them? If yes, what diameter?" 

Gene



Chrisisall said:


> Yes and yes. 1.57 mm, any thinner and the FO strand wouldn't fit.


Chris,

I assume the 1.57 mm refers to the tubing outer diameter, that is, you are using 1/16" tubing. I was asking you what diameter of fiber optic strand are planning on using for the finger light rods? 0.75 mm? 1.0 mm?

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> >>>>"Are you going to be using fiber optics to light them? If yes, what diameter?"
> 
> Gene
> 
> 
> 
> Chris,
> 
> I assume the 1.57 mm refers to the tubing outer diameter, that is, you are using 1/16" tubing. I was asking you what diameter of fiber optic strand are planning on using for the finger light rods? 0.75 mm? 1.0 mm?
> 
> Gene


The FO that come with the Starling kit doesn't list size, but I'll be using the thinner of the two.


----------



## moebiusman

The Starilng kit has .50 and .75 mm FO. .75 is just the right size for
1.57 brass tubing , with a dab of micro kristal clear and some amber paint
it looks very good. That is what I am doing as I type this.


----------



## Chrisisall

moebiusman said:


> The Starilng kit has .50 and .75 mm FO. .75 is just the right size for
> 1.57 brass tubing , with a dab of micro kristal clear and some amber paint
> it looks very good. That is what I am doing as I type this.


Thanks!:thumbsup:


----------



## Genos

moebiusman said:


> The Starilng kit has .50 and .75 mm FO. .75 is just the right size for
> 1.57 brass tubing , with a dab of micro kristal clear and some amber paint
> it looks very good. That is what I am doing as I type this.


Moebiusman,

Thank you. 

I hope you decide to post some pictures of your work in progress build.

Gene


----------



## moebiusman

Genos said:


> Moebiusman,
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> I hope you decide to post some pictures of your work in progress build.
> 
> Gene


Thanks for that Gene, I am planning on starting a thread on my build
soon. At the moment I have Just finished a cool mod on the Starling
Light kit and the Mechalabs kit by combining both of them and adding
extra lights for the brain. Now both will work off the 6v wall plug that came with
the Starling kit. And as I said before, .75 FO finger lights in the brain. 
Plus 4 3mm L.E.D.'S in the brain, two blinkies pointed in opposite directions, 
and two always on for the eyes.Stay tuned.:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

Today I spent way too much time agonizing (_Your agonizer, please._) over how to efficiently and solidly secure the halves of the torso together so they can be separated for battery replacement. Even made test parts after some thinking

and realized that my neck pain was so gorram distracting I wasn't taking into account that I could easily put the battery in the FEET!!! 
I'll just semi-permanently button up the torso after wiring & place the battery down south.
Oh well, I've wasted time before, this ain't nothing new.


----------



## hamiltonpl

moebiusman said:


> The Starilng kit has .50 and .75 mm FO. .75 is just the right size for
> 1.57 brass tubing , with a dab of micro kristal clear and some amber paint
> it looks very good. That is what I am doing as I type this.


Where did you get your brass tubing? I am planning on the same thing as I have the same Starling kit.


----------



## Chrisisall

I got mine at my local hobby shop, more than I'll ever use for $1.83.


----------



## moebiusman

Same with me, Local hobby shop. I am at that part of the build now
and I am having a hard time with it. I tried running 2 3mm l.e.d.'s 
into the brain plus the FO for the finger lights and it wont all fit
in the tube. I know use a bigger tube right. But the 1.57 is perfect
for the bubble. So now its lookin like one 3mm blinky and FO for
the rest of the Brain. Unless Chris or anyone else has a better plan?


----------



## DCH10664

Anyone got the answer to exactly what color the finger lights are ??? I see some episodes that they look red. While other times they look orange to amber. 
I don't know anything about FO. So I'm going to try making my finger lights using acrylic rods. And need to know what color rods to get.


----------



## Chrisisall

moebiusman said:


> for the bubble. So now its lookin like one 3mm blinky and FO for
> the rest of the Brain. Unless Chris or anyone else has a better plan?


I'm going with 2 steady-on & 2 blinkys in the brain, with FO for the finger lights.


----------



## moebiusman

Chrisisall said:


> I'm going with 2 steady-on & 2 blinkys in the brain, with FO for the finger lights.


Yah that is what I was hoping to do but I cant fit all that wire down 
the darn brass pipe. Maybe re-wire in series ?


----------



## Chrisisall

moebiusman said:


> re-wire in series ?


That's what I'm doin'!:thumbsup:


----------



## Genos

DCH10664 said:


> Anyone got the answer to exactly what color the finger lights are ??? I see some episodes that they look red. While other times they look orange to amber.
> I don't know anything about FO. So I'm going to try making my finger lights using acrylic rods. And need to know what color rods to get.


DCH10664,

To me, the finger lights appear to be amber for the season 2/3 robot. Ditto for the 3 crown lights (the 3 lights on top of the brain, near the crown). I just watched both of those seasons and that's they the way appeared to me in both of those seasons. 





















I think the attached pictures show this. In particular, look at the lit bulbs in the pictures. I think it is easier to determine the color of the lights when they are lit. When the lights aren't lit and they are in shade then the unlit bulbs appear to be darker color. :wave: 

Gene


----------



## DCH10664

Genos said:


> DCH10664,
> 
> To me, the finger lights appear to be amber for the season 2/3 robot. Ditto for the 3 crown lights (the 3 lights on top of the brain, near the crown). I just watched both of those seasons and that's they the way appeared to me in both of those seasons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the attached pictures show this. In particular, look at the lit bulbs in the pictures. I think it is easier to determine the color of the lights when they are lit. When the lights aren't lit and they are in shade then the unlit bulbs appear to be darker color. :wave:
> 
> Gene


Thanks Genos ! I really appreciate the help. And I will keep the pics for future reference. :wave:


----------



## RSN

Genos said:


> DCH10664,
> 
> To me, the finger lights appear to be amber for the season 2/3 robot. Ditto for the 3 crown lights (the 3 lights on top of the brain, near the crown). I just watched both of those seasons and that's they the way appeared to me in both of those seasons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the attached pictures show this. In particular, look at the lit bulbs in the pictures. I think it is easier to determine the color of the lights when they are lit. When the lights aren't lit and they are in shade then the unlit bulbs appear to be darker color. :wave:
> 
> Gene


The top picture shows very clearly that his head is two different colors. The middle band and ear stalks, as well as the tiny fins on the smaller top unit are a gunmetal, while the rest is the same color as the body and treads.


----------



## moebiusman

Yup, I used tamiya light gun metal around the sensor array but I 
did it in a bit of a different way. Instead of masking off the collar
I sprayed a paint brush tip and brushed it on. It gave it a silky
smooth sort of velvet ribbon look. Just right.


----------



## Genos

moebiusman said:


> Yup, I used tamiya light gun metal around the sensor array but I did it in a bit of a different way. Instead of masking off the collar I sprayed a paint brush tip and brushed it on. It gave it a silky smooth sort of velvet ribbon look. Just right.


moebiusman,

I think the Tamiya light gun metal was a great choice! Agreed, just right. :thumbsup:

Gene


----------



## DCH10664

Hey Chris :wave: Any progress on the triplets ??? And I'm curious to know if you found a way to do the first season squishy-look on the legs ??


----------



## hal9001

Bubble Headed Chris, are you going to use the "crown" PE (part 6)? I didn't see it in the box with the other PE parts.

Carl-

P.S. Chris, sorry to hear of your pain, I know what it's like. I've got a rare type of Rheumatoid Arthritis in 60% of my bod, two worn out prosthetic hips and a list of other boring things. _*Hang in the best you can bud!*_


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Bubble Headed Chris, are you going to use the "crown" PE (part 6). I didn't see it in the box with the other PE parts.


Right now I don't plan to use the part, but I'll assemble it to see just in case. I like the plastic part well enough.


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Right now I don't plan to use the part, but I'll assemble it to see just in case. I like the plastic part well enough.


I know what you mean, gluing two "layers" is going to show seams pretty bad. Would be a pain in the south side trying fill them in to hide them. Besides being easy to cause damage.

Well, I'll check back on page 39 and see how far you've gotten by then...

Carl-


----------



## hamiltonpl

Seaview said:


> My second "First season" version. Incidentally, Testors rattlecan #1453, "Metallic Magnesium Spray Buff" is an excellent choice for the torso and waist ring for this version, with Tamiya "Mica Silver" for the middle of the torso section, 'knee plates" and foot sections. :wave:


Do you have any pictures of how these colors look on your B9 now? What primer did you use on your B9?

I have some Tamiya FINE SURFACE PRIMER for Plastic and Metal (WHITE). My only concern is the lacquer base on the Spray buff and how it might react. 

Thoughts?


----------



## teslabe

I still can't believe you're building three at the same time and doing an incredible job on them all to boot, looking forward to more pictures.....:wave::wave::thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

I had to buy new tools to make the holes slightly bigger for the new finger lights aluminium tubes...

The right one is ready.:thumbsup:


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> I had to buy new tools to make the holes slightly bigger for the new finger lights aluminium tubes...


And who's fault is that......? 

*So far Chris *- :thumbsup:

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> And who's fault is that......?


I blame myself.

Okay, back in action. I put two finger light assemblies together. Ready for FO insertion.


----------



## moebiusman

Looking good , I am at the same point in my build.
:wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

moebiusman said:


> Looking good , I am at the same point in my build.
> :wave:


Hey, I was about to prime the exterior and I saw some things. Not 'flash' exactly, but little sharp edges & uneven mould lines.


Just an FYI.
*breaks out the ultra-fine sandpaper*


----------



## hamiltonpl

I have a question about the LEGS and KNEE section.

I've created a more proper "spacer" between the two treads so they line up better with the legs.

I am intending on using 5 minute epoxy to secure the KNEES to the treads and to the upper knee plates. Then I am planning on securing the LEGS to the upper knee plates with a drop or two of epoxy. 

I want to keep the waist plate unsecured so that I can get to the electronics I am putting into the legs section. I will drill a couple of holes to run wires up into the torso.

Firstly, any GOTCHAS I am not thinking of when I go to epoxy the vinyl KNEE and LEGS to the knee plates?

Secondly, I would like a way to be able to get to the upper torso section since electronics and FO will be run from there to the head section.

I could leave the collar unsecured (like the waistplate - but that's creates a pretty small opening to get to the inside of the torso. Thoughts suggestions comments?

I hate gluing it all together with NO way to access the inside should something need fixin'.


----------



## Chrisisall

Well, I was going to create an elaborate hook/clip system for the upper & lower torso pieces, but the engineer in me asked the model-maker in me if I wanted to work on that for a few months seeing as the interior had no room for such a system as is, and a few parts would have to moulded & recast.... I'll spot glue it together, thanks. Rip it open if I have to some day, then clean it up again.


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> ...but the engineer in me asked the model-maker in me if I wanted to work on that for a few months....


I can't imagine that taking you a few months to work out as fast as you build things Chris. _*I think you underestimate your talent*_!

This may have been address early in your post (too lazy to go check), but are a couple of these for clients?

This has been awfully fun to watch and can't wait to get a few started kits finished (about a dozen) to get started on mine!

Carl-


----------



## hamiltonpl

Chrisisall said:


> Well, I was going to create an elaborate hook/clip system for the upper & lower torso pieces, but the engineer in me asked the model-maker in me if I wanted to work on that for a few months seeing as the interior had no room for such a system as is, and a few parts would have to moulded & recast.... I'll spot glue it together, thanks. Rip it open if I have to some day, then clean it up again.


Yes. I did think of that too. Always an option. Just wondering if there is something that I'm not thinking of that would allow the middle TORSO to be separated from where it connects to the bottom torso - that would be ideal.


----------



## Zombie_61

hamiltonpl said:


> ...Just wondering if there is something that I'm not thinking of that would allow the middle TORSO to be separated from where it connects to the bottom torso - that would be ideal.


Magnets? You would have to design and build some form of platforms or brackets to place them exactly where you want them, but if done properly that would allow you to remove and replace the upper/middle torso section at will.

Keep in mind, I know nothing about electronics so I don't know how or if magnets would affect those systems or if you might need to also create some form of "barrier" to prevent such effects.


----------



## hal9001

Chris, I was thinking about your need to separate the torso to get to the electronics. My kit is not handy to get to to see the instructions at the kit engineering, but is there a way to make a ring with a couple of notches in it with a mating piece similar to the way tank turrets attach?

Just a thought, 
Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> is there a way to make a ring with a couple of notches in it with a mating piece similar to the way tank turrets attach?


Yeah, it's possible, but with the lower windows and the arm wells you only have four points to do it, and that would be fine if the plastic were thicker and the two pieces mated cleanly, but you have to finesse them into place. I'll just glue it. Won't accidentally pop open that way.


----------



## hal9001

That's kinda the way it looked, but not having it in hand to study I wasn't sure.

Saw where someone mentioned magnets, is that not an option or is it too unsafe for the electronics?

Anyway, good luck.

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Saw where someone mentioned magnets, is that not an option or is it too unsafe for the electronics?


I don't think magnets would have any effect on the electronics... I test fitted it together again just this moment, and magnets strong enough to pull the top part down to make a snug un-poppable fit would also wear out of any connection to the upper & lower torsos I could conceive of, over time. I'm just gonna make gorram sure everything inside is solidly connected before I spot glue it shut.


----------



## Genos

It appears that Teslabe is going to incorporate a way of separating the torso, in case something fails inside the robot. See post #185 on his WIP build, dated 4-14-214.

Gene 

Originally Posted by teslabe 
Gene, sorry for not answering you sooner, the inside race will be friction fit so I can remove it in case something fails and the outside race gets epoxied to the bottom of the torso. I'll post pictures of it completed when I get that far....:wave:


----------



## Nova Mike

Looks really good, what patiences you have, looking forward to the continued build. :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Okay my B9 bros, I had a breakthrough here. I was banging my head trying to figure what to paint the vinyl parts with. I tried straight acrylic, but after drying it peeled off SO easily it was ridiculous. And you KNOW that means in time it would simply crack & flake off. So then I tried automotive primer (you know, the really smelly stuff)...

and if you look at the fourth ring down, you see that even with a lot of scraping it barely came off. THAT was the ring I briskly SANDED with fine sand paper to test that approach. I'll now sand the entire thing, every square mm, and re-paint it with the automotive primer.
THEN, I can paint with acrylic to get the exact shades I'm looking for! And I can also create the first season wrinkles with different thicknesses & brush strokes (I did another heat test with a brand new hotter hair dryer, & still no good results. I'm pretty certain at this point a heat gun would shrink it down badly) . It's a win. 
Now, oh joy- more sanding. My favourite thing.


----------



## hal9001

Chris, Chris, Chris...*NEVER* paint acrylics on bare plastic! *ALWAYS* use a quality primer first. :thumbsup: End berating....

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Chris, Chris, Chris...*NEVER* paint acrylics on bare plastic! *ALWAYS* use a quality primer first.


But Carl, even a quality primer _alone_ does not work on THIS vinyl....


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> But Carl, even a quality primer _alone_ does not work on THIS vinyl....


Yes, you're right Chris and I should have thought about this sooner until you jarred my memory. There is a special paint that could be used as a primer that is made specifically for vinyl. I'll do some kicking around and try to find it. Used it years ago on a tire cover to paint our logo on and it was outside for at least 7 yrs. and was still going strong last I saw of it. I just don't recall the name.

This cover was taken off and wadded up many times and it *NEVER* did crack!

Carl-


----------



## hal9001

Chris take a look at these:

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-19...st-Oleum+1911830+Vinyl+Spray,+White,+11-Ounce

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...c-coating/_/N-25h9?itemIdentifier=645639_0_0_

A buddy recommended both of these highly. I've not tried them so I can't give an opinion.

Carl-


----------



## Trek Ace

Now, if you had just test painted and primed the _inside_ vinyl surface, then you wouldn't have to do all of the sanding and scraping to recover the outside!


----------



## Chrisisall

*facepalm*


----------



## Genos

Attached is a picture of the vinyl YM-3 legs painted with the Dupli-color vinyl gray paint. While the color is too light for a Season 2/3 robot, it might be fine for a Season 1 robot.

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

I was dreading sanding all the vinyl parts, but I did the big leg pieces, then I had an idea... so I got some Scotchbright scrubbies & Comet and viola!

I'd still have had to sand the deeper spots in the upper legs, but this saved hours on the rest of it.


----------



## Nova Mike

Looking good . :thumbsup: great time saver idea.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Chris!

Would they need painting after all? They seem very good looking as they are.


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Would they need painting after all? They seem very good looking as they are.


Maybe you can't see in the photo, but after sanding/scrubbing there are lots of visible micro-scratches. But that's academic now since I primed them all.


----------



## hal9001

The little robot builder said, I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.....

Glimpse any hint of light at the end of the looong tunnel?

:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Glimpse any hint of light at the end of the looong tunnel?


 Getting the little details of the final look are the hardest part for me, soldering all the innards will go a good bit faster. 
I see a _pinhole_ of light at the moment....


----------



## liskorea317

What primer did you end up using after all?


----------



## Chrisisall

Rustoleum primer sealer (pintura base), the smelly stuff that induces headaches if your area isn't well ventilated.


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> I was dreading sanding all the vinyl parts, but I did the big leg pieces, then I had an idea... so I got some Scotchbright scrubbies & Comet and viola!
> 
> I'd still have had to sand the deeper spots in the upper legs, but this saved hours on the rest of it.


Chris,

When your done sanding and painting the arms, will the seam be gone?

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> When your done sanding and painting the arms, will the seam be gone?


A little less visible, but NOT gone. My nutty research shows they were there on the actual Robot. The seams on the leg parts however were not. I will do my best to eradicate them. I believe I can mostly do that with acrylic paint.


----------



## hal9001

I bet the paint will stick well now.

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

Okay, I must get radical. Season one leg bellows can't be made by melting the vinyl into the desired shape. Or simply painting acrylic inconsistencies. I'm gonna have to go old school sculpt on this. 

More soon...


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> I'm gonna have to go old school sculpt on this.
> More soon...


Good, well, not so much for you, but for us this should proved to be very educational. I had always planned on doing this for the Polar Lights kit. Now we'll be able to watch _exactly_ how to do.

So get to work....

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> So get to work....


It won't be pretty... at first....



Also, that primer I used is crap for this. Flakes off. I'll be scrubbing it all off- won't be too _difficult_... I'll try real vinyl primer from the auto store next, stay tuned.


----------



## hal9001

gulp....YIKES.....


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> Attached is a picture of the vinyl YM-3 legs painted with the Dupli-color vinyl gray paint. While the color is too light for a Season 2/3 robot, it might be fine for a Season 1 robot.


Thanks Gene, yeah, it's actually perfect for season one!


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> gulp....YIKES.....


Relax, I'm gonna fix it!



I'll know by tonite if this is the perfect answer or not...


----------



## Chrisisall

The answer is...

No, it won't work.:freak:
I started filing the grooves and the epoxy putty pieces popped right out. This is NOT vinyl. It's a really oily pvc of some kind. EPOXY putty *should* stick to almost anything. BUT. I have another trick up my sleeve. Stay tuned.


----------



## Nova Mike

Oh the pain ! :freak: fingers and toes crossed


----------



## Chrisisall

Nova Mike said:


> Oh the pain ! :freak: fingers and toes crossed


Heh, ALL I hadda do was accept a slightly imperfect season one Robot. 
Not gonna happen.
I'm no Teslabe, but I damn well AM gonna make this Robot LOOK good....


----------



## Nova Mike

Chrisisall said:


> but I damn well AM gonna make this Robot LOOK good....


Of that I have no doubt ! :thumbsup:


----------



## hal9001

OMG, I knew it, I knew it! I can't believe it, we've all wasted our time following this, OMG, I can't believe ....oh, wait, _*did I say that out loud*_? I mean, too, too bad, that's a bad break (no pun intended).

Ah, we ain't too worried Chris, if anyone can figure a solution it will be you! That does sound like a bitch of a material to try to work with. Got me more than a little concerned for when I build mine though. I know it's gotta be frustratin'! 

Carl-


----------



## Y3a

why not build a cardboard inner frame and sculpt the legs over it. THEN make a mold of them. cast your parts in Alumilite or somesuch.


----------



## Chrisisall

Okay, I simply cut the leg bellows in half, used them as moulds & filled with epoxy putty, being careful to spread the 'moulds' out a bit to compensate for the interior/exterior difference, 


And voilà!


Now it's just a little sculpting and gluing the halves together when I get them looking right!


----------



## Chrisisall

Good. Two sets cast. I have sculpting to do (red dot area) & I had to remove the guide tracks on the adjoining parts (other red dots) because the thickness of the new bellows parts won't fit around them.


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks Gene, yeah, it's actually perfect for season one!


Chris,

You are welcome! I can't wait to see how it all works out. :wave:

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> I can't wait to see it all works out. :wave:


Here's a crude test-fit. I have a lot more to do, but it looks like it's gonna be good.


----------



## liskorea317

Wow! Now that's what I call a "Happy Accident!" The legs look great!
Can't wait to see them finished!


----------



## Chrisisall

liskorea317 said:


> Can't wait to see them finished!


Thanks, me too. 
And is it just me, but did our Robot seem something like 4-5" shorter in the _first_ season?


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Here's a crude test-fit. I have a lot more to do, but it looks like it's gonna be good.


Forgive me, but this picture makes me think this was taken from the rear and ole B-9 had just seen something real scary......

Carl-


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks, me too.
> And is it just me, but did our Robot seem something like 4-5" shorter in the _first_ season?


I would say,,,, nope. 










Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> I would say,,,, nope.


The Robot's height seemed to fluctuate a bit IMO. Dr. Smith's height being a constant, I have observed his head coming to the bottom of the bubble some times, and only just clearing the ear level at others...

The leg bellow height being the variable.


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Forgive me, but this picture makes me think this was taken from the rear and ole B-9 had just seen something real scary......


Silly silly British man.

All glued together, next is fine sanding & detailing, but basically I'm happy. I'll just sit here bein' happy. For the moment.


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Silly silly British man.


Sorry, wrong side of the pond....

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Sorry, wrong side of the pond....


An Andrew quote from the final ep of Buffy. I use it for silly remarks regardless of nationality.:lol:


----------



## Y3a

Genos said:


> I would say,,,, nope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gene


_sn't that photo a little orangey? maybe oversaturated, color slipping, or something?_


----------



## Chrisisall

...getting there....


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> And is it just me, but did our Robot seem something like 4-5" shorter in the _first_ season?


You might have something.


----------



## Chrisisall

Silly silly British man.


----------



## teslabe

Chrisisall said:


> ...getting there....


Those turned out great, you are one fantastic artist my friend.....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

teslabe said:


> Those turned out great, you are one fantastic artist my friend


Aww thanks man, still not done though, more sanding to refine the shapes... :freak:


----------



## hal9001

Hey Chris, just had a great idea! How about you making a mold, casting some of them there legs so *we* don't have to go through all the trials and tribulations you've had to endure! Good idea, huh? Forever the thinker I am!

Carl-


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> The Robot's height seemed to fluctuate a bit IMO. Dr. Smith's height being a constant, I have observed his head coming to the bottom of the bubble some times, and only just clearing the ear level at others...
> 
> The leg bellow height being the variable.


The Robot's height most definitely does fluctuate! The height of the bubble lifter/neck being the variable.










"It shrinks?"
"Like a frightened turtle."

The height of the bubble lifter on the left is much shorter than the height on the right. Many of the robot's features got little air time over the 3 seasons:

Rotating crowns that stopped rotating.
Spinning ear sensors that stopped spinning.
Wiggling finger light rods that no longer move up/down.
Programming panels that don't get programmed.
Teeth light switches that don't get switched.

The bubble lifter was used throughout the seasons. Bob May used it to accentuate the robot's emotions. :wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> The Robot's height most definitely does fluctuate! The height of the bubble lifter/neck being the variable.


I was of course taking that into account.
Look at his leg bellows. When he's really tall, they appear rather angular at the outside ribs (but not the stunt Robot; his bellows were rounded even though he was at full possible height). When he's shorter they appear more rounded. The shortest he ever appeared IMO was the publicity still they used on the cover of the Viewmaster reel. I think they just set it up without May in it...:thumbsup:

Check this out, it was hard to find:


Speaking of bellows, my first season ones are done & primed (not painted yet though).


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Chris, you are a talented sculptor, no doubt. :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Chris, you are a talented sculptor, no doubt. :thumbsup:


Thanks Fernando, I really appreciate the praise from a fellow artist of your calibre!


----------



## hal9001

Chris, not being a B-9 aficionado, was the "crotch seam" only on the first season bot? I noticed in the comparison stills the bot on the left doesn't show one. Or, was there a backside seam only?

Your new ones sure make the kit ones look not so great now!

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> was the "crotch seam" only on the first season bot?


Yes. The 2nd & 3rd look like the kit.


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> I was of course taking that into account.
> Look at his leg bellows. When he's really tall, they appear rather angular at the outside ribs (but not the stunt Robot; his bellows were rounded even though he was at full possible height). When he's shorter they appear more rounded. The shortest he ever appeared IMO was the publicity still they used on the cover of the Viewmaster reel. I think they just set it up without May in it...:thumbsup:
> 
> Check this out, it was hard to find:
> 
> 
> 
> Which is the stunt robot and which is the hero robot?


----------



## Chrisisall

Genos said:


> Which is the stunt robot and which is the hero robot?


The tall one is the stunt Robot. Although the hero Robot had been photographed nearly as tall in some publicity stills. I conjure Bob May stood really tall for those, but kind of sank down into it after gruelling & hot hours of series shooting.:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Got the ParaGrafiX brain additions on...


And after a little sanding, the primer...


This is a test on MY Robot brain- I cut lots of holes into the plastic casing so that I might have a straight visual for the lighting. Like Scotty said, I'll let ya know.

Edit to add: Yep. Just like I'd hoped.


----------



## hal9001

Let me sound like the dumb one of the group ask you to 'splain "cutting holes" exactly. What ever you meant, it worked!

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Let me sound like the dumb one of the group ask you to 'splain "cutting holes" exactly.


Not 'dumb' at all; I didn't explain it very well.
I decided to drill out the clear plastic 'hole areas' so the ParaGrafiX covers could be primed & painted already in place without messing up the clear plastic underneath. I was going to prime & paint them BEFORE application to the clear parts, but I decided it would be easier & more 'illuminating' this way is all.:thumbsup:

Edit to add: working on my client's now...


----------



## Chrisisall

Brain and brain! What is brain??


----------



## Chrisisall

Here's something else: I initially coated the arms with a primer that didn't totally work, so I scraped it off & partially sanded it, then applied the vinyl automotive paint. It left imperfections, but I realized they look like actual rubber stretch imperfections on the real Robot...


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> The tall one is the stunt Robot. Although the hero Robot had been photographed nearly as tall in some publicity stills. I conjure Bob May stood really tall for those, but kind of sank down into it after gruelling & hot hours of series shooting.:thumbsup:


The stunt robot was made of different materials than the hero robot. The robot was made lightweight and the leg bellows were made of fiber glass.










The robot was not made to hold a person and was not created until season 3. The robot was made to be suspended.










Gene

P.S. Brain and Brain! What is brain?? The brain on the stunt or dummy robot was made of cardboard, again, to cut down on the weight.


----------



## Metaluna Mutant

To notch work on this. Really impressive, especially the leg bellows re-sculpt. 

My wife watched LIS religiously as a kid and loved the Robot. She told me she wanted this, with lights & sound, the whole thing. I purchased the kit, fret and lighting kit and am watching your build for ideas. Great work!


----------



## Chrisisall

Metaluna Mutant said:


> I purchased the kit, fret and lighting kit and am watching your build for ideas. Great work!


Thanks so much! 
Presently I am prepping my test Robot (the one I'm NOT lighting just for me) to find the best colour scheme so that my client's builds will work well. 
Notes: 
Fine sand the sharp edges all around; the moulds were great, but these need to be softened a bit.
Mount the power pack upside down & cut off the tabs so you can glue it to the body about 2 mm to the left. The inner bits will be upside down, but the outer look will be more accurate. I plan to fudge it a little in the painting to make it appear that the inner bits are correct...


----------



## hal9001

Hey Mr., what made your robots explode?


----------



## Chrisisall

Had a visit from Mr. Nobody...


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Had a visit from Mr. Nobody...


Greek Mythology? 

Addendum: Never mind, that was "no man is killing me".... Sorry.

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

Just discovered that the power pack was actually green in the B&W eps too. Cool. 
I'm gonna stop being anal retentive about seams & just finish my test kit. All primed & ready to paint. Pictures soon.


----------



## Nova Mike

Looking really great but my word you must have tremendous patients sorting all those parts.. Oh the pain... :wave:


----------



## Chrisisall

Nova Mike said:


> Looking really great but my word you must have tremendous patients sorting all those parts.. Oh the pain... :wave:


In a small workspace? Yep. 
Just a maelstrom pic or two:



My test 'bot is nearing completion.


----------



## hal9001

And here I thought you were kinda, sorta, maybe-ish getting towards the end! 

Huh, was I ever wrong.....



Patiently waiting, waiting and Waaaiiitttiiinnnggg,

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Patiently waiting, waiting and Waaaiiitttiiinnnggg,


All parts painted, coated & waiting for glue.
Just finishing the front 12 button colours... Hours of research lead me to believe the first season Robot's buttons go: (first row) yellow, blue, green, blue, yellow, orange (second row) red, orange, red, white, blue, yellow.


----------



## RSN

Chrisisall said:


> All parts painted, coated & waiting for glue.
> Just finishing the front 12 button colours... Hours of research lead me to believe the first season Robot's buttons go: (first row) yellow, blue, green, blue, yellow, orange (second row) red, orange, red, white, blue, yellow.


Depends on the color publicity photo. They were not concerned with replacing the same lenses when they changed the bulbs. 
My reference showed 
Top Row: Yellow, Blue, Green, Blue, Yellow, Red
Second Row: Red. Orange, Red, White, Blue, Yellow


----------



## Genos

Chrisisall said:


> All parts painted, coated & waiting for glue.
> Just finishing the front 12 button colours... Hours of research lead me to believe the first season Robot's buttons go: (first row) yellow, blue, green, blue, yellow, orange (second row) red, orange, red, white, blue, yellow.


Chris,

I came up with similar colors for a season 1 robot's belly lights with one minor difference:

yellow, blue, green, blue, yellow, red
red, orange, red, white, blue, yellow










Additionally, it appears there is commonality between seasons, in that all seasons have:

3 Clear Red 
3 Clear Blue
3 Clear Yellow
1 Clear Orange
1 Translucent Green
1 Translucent Other* Color 

* In season 1 there is a translucent white light and in season 2/3 there is a translucent yellow-orange belly light.:wave:

Gene


----------



## Chrisisall

First season test 'bot non-lighted pretty much finished:





Still have to put on the button decals & do minor touch up, but I like it. Better pix in sunlight soon.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

FANTASTIC!! FANTASTIC!! FANTASTIC!! (one for each robot) :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> FANTASTIC!! FANTASTIC!! FANTASTIC!! (one for each robot) :thumbsup:


Fernando, sorry, but it's just the test one. Thanks for the triple kudos though! The next two are to be lit up for my client.


----------



## hal9001

Hubba, hubba, check out those legs! Yowza....

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Hubba, hubba, check out those legs! Yowza....


Thanks Carl, I was determined to make it first season all the way.

Here's harsh daylight:


----------



## hal9001

Chris, you're quite the artisan! You're sculpting ability is first rate. Your ST phaser build was really fun to watch. Sure wish I could, _it's gotta be fun_!

Now, get back to work, enough head swelling...

Carl-


----------



## Chrisisall

I'm having trouble catching the true colour in photos... this one is a little better.


----------



## Nova Mike

:thumbsup::thumbsup: Well done Sir ! Looking forward to the others.


----------



## jeffking45

*first season legs*

Are you selling any first season legs?


----------



## Chrisisall

jeffking45 said:


> Are you selling any first season legs?


Thanks for the compliment, but I really don't have table space or time to mould & cast them for aftermarket sale...


----------



## kdaracal

Chrisisall said:


> I'm having trouble catching the true colour in photos... this one is a little better.


Great job Chris!


----------



## DCH10664

That is one excellent looking first season robot !! You really strive for perfection, and it shows ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

Thanks!
Also, something I discovered: the arms go into the sockets & cuffs extremely easily, but to remove them (if you want to change them) you need to bend then in at the connection to unlock them, and this will mess up whatever primer and/or paint that is on them. 
So, yes, you CAN switch them out fairly easily, but the outgoing arms will always need to be stripped & re-painted before re-use. Just an FYI.


----------



## Chrisisall

Danger, DANGER! I was Microsol-ing the decals & the Beta one popped off into my thick, dark green rug! A twenty minute search and nothing. Wet as it was, it must have stuck to a fiber way down... it's gone.:freak:



I Emailed Moebius to see if getting another sheet is possible. I'm really NOT gonna try to hand letter it with an ultra fine Sharpie.:drunk:

Oh the pain, the pain...

Meanwhile, I thought it might be fun to do a side by side with my season one Masudaya...


----------



## DCH10664

As for the side by side comparison,.... No disrespect intended towards your season one Masudaya model. But it's easily apparent that it is a model. While your Moebius version picture could quite easily be a screen cap from a season one episode ! It's beautiful !! You really nailed it. :thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> No disrespect intended towards your season one Masudaya model. But it's easily apparent that it is a model.


Yep. See the way the Moebius version is looking at him sideways as if to say "What the heck are YOU?"
:lol:


----------



## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Danger, DANGER! I was Microsol-ing the decals & the Beta one popped off into my thick, dark green rug! A twenty minute search and nothing. Wet as it was, it must have stuck to a fiber way down... it's gone.
> 
> I Emailed Moebius to see if getting another sheet is possible. I'm really NOT gonna try to hand letter it with an ultra fine Sharpie.


*Noooooo!* *Say it ain't Soooooo!!!* 

Guess now we'll get to see how good Moebiuss' public relations is.

Carl-


----------



## DCH10664

Chrisisall said:


> Yep. See the way the Moebius version is looking at him sideways as if to say "What the heck are YOU?"
> :lol:


And the Moebius version is likely thinking, "Someone put way too much starch in your pants!"


----------



## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> And the Moebius version is likely thinking, "Someone put way too much starch in your pants!"


But it's a good Voltone Halloween costume!


----------



## Zombie_61

DCH10664 said:


> As for the side by side comparison,.... No disrespect intended towards your season one Masudaya model. But it's easily apparent that it is a model. While your Moebius version picture could quite easily be a screen cap from a season one episode ! It's beautiful !! You really nailed it. :thumbsup:


I concur. The imperfections and asymmetries in the Season 1 legs you created really help to make them appear to be what they were on the costume--hollow rubber--and that really helps to sell the illusion (in the photos anyway) that this isn't a scale model. That, and your attention to detail, really make this a brilliant build-up. :thumbsup:


----------



## RSN

The Masudaya Robot was created off the dimensions of the lightweight Robot made for season 3 when it was in Japan in the mid-'80's. The legs for that were cast in fiberglass from the same molds as the rubber cast legs, therefore they did not compress like the costume legs did with Bob May inside. All the commercially available Robot products, up until the Moebius kit, had this feature for the legs.


----------



## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Guess now we'll get to see how good Moebiuss' public relations is.


Well Carl, it's great. They already got back to me, and they're out of decal sets for the moment, but they told me to check back with them in three weeks. I'm in no big rush, so it's great that I *will* be able to get them later! :thumbsup:


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## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Well Carl, it's great. They already got back to me, and they're out of decal sets for the moment, but they told me to check back with them in three weeks. I'm in no big rush, so it's great that I *will* be able to get them later! :thumbsup:


I figured as much, good company!

C-


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## Dave in RI

This is such a fantastic modification you did for a true first season Robot! I have the Masudaya Robot and thought it was pretty accurate, now I see how wrong I was... I really need to get me a Moebius kit.

I'm curious, for an "ultra" first season look, is it possible to separate and skew the tread section to have a walking Robot?


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## Chrisisall

Dave in RI said:


> I'm curious, for an "ultra" first season look, is it possible to separate and skew the tread section to have a walking Robot?


Yes; I was actually going to do that on mine, but I realised that I really just wanted him to stand there looking good as opposed to an 'action' pose.


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## Captain Han Solo

Excellent work sir!!!


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## Chrisisall

Captain Han Solo said:


> Excellent work sir!!!


Thanks so much! It was a B&W labour of love!


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## teslabe

This thread just keeps getting better and better, fantastic work......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Still can't believe you're building three at one time, that takes commitment.....


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## hal9001

teslabe said:


> Still can't believe you're building three at one time, that takes commitment.....


*Or insanity?*

Anonymous-


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> *Or insanity?*


I have never been accused of the opposite...


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## Fernando Mureb

Great job, Chris!! You have surpassed the simple scale modeling hobby and entered the terrain of the artistic works.


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## Chrisisall

Fernando Mureb said:


> Great job, Chris!! You have surpassed the simple scale modeling hobby and entered the terrain of the artistic works.


Thanks Fernando, but still in progress... I tried switching one of the arms & all of the primer & paint flaked off big time. Way more than expected. 

If it flakes off with so little provocation that does not bode well for no provocation at all as years pass.
Time to go old school & paint with an acrylic/latex mix. 
I'll let you know how it goes....


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## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks Fernando, but still in progress... I tried switching one of the arms & all of the primer & paint flaked off big time. Way more than expected.
> If it flakes off with so little provocation that does not bode well for no provocation at all as years pass.
> Time to go old school & paint with an acrylic/latex mix.
> I'll let you know how it goes....


_Damn Chris!_ I hate to see this so late in the build, with all the trouble you've had _them_ arms. I assume you have _all_ the arms painted? Hope not.

Not only your owes, but for those of us that have not built ours have this pain in the posterior to 'not' look forward to. But, if you find a viable solution 'we' can stand on your shoulders.

So, did you never try vinyl paint for vinyl? I don't remember and too lazy to go back and try to find out!

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> So, did you never try vinyl paint for vinyl?


Yes, the paint that just flaked off was vinyl automotive paint. Before that I tested primer first, and that was a bust too. Basically, I'm certain that acrylic brushed on would do the trick, but I was looking for the easy way out- my bad. But acrylic can get very hard over years, and I'm fearful of cracks developing on such a flexible surface (especially if I want to change the arms from time to time, or touch the legs that come with the kit) so I just bought some liquid latex to mix into it- I've had great success with that combo in the past. It also gives me the chance to go just a _tiny bit_ darker, an idea I was toying with earlier.

More in a bit...


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## hal9001

Have you ever considered just going ahead and making a mold and casting the damn arms in resin? I'm thinking in investing in a set up to cast resin for myself and should I, I may do that rather than have the problems you've had.

It looks as though there just isn't a perfect solution?!

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Have you ever considered just going ahead and making a mold and casting the damn arms in resin?


If I was going into business selling aftermarket parts I'd consider it seriously, but I'm confident that a simple acrylic/latex mix will be my answer. Just have to not go too heavy on the latex or the paint turns out too rubbery when it dries- then it shrinks a bit. I'll detail how it works here.:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

Small update: I'm testing acrylic (as thought- it doesn't stick very well & scrapes off all too easily), acrylic/latex mix (sticks nicely but seems to scrape off more easily than I'd like it to, at least at a thin coating, I'll let it dry more...) and Krylon (this is surprisingly adhering well, and scrapes off a little less easily than the acrylic/latex. Krylon doesn't fully dry for a couple of days, but I'm beginning to think this, or possibly Krylon Fusion might be the way I'll go here- Fusion is made for plastics, and these pieces are, I believe, polyethylene, basically a coloured version of what they make soda bottles out of).


An update will come tomorrow, stay tuned.


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## Dave in RI

I may be totally barking up the wrong tree with this idea, but is it possible to stain / dye the vinyl the proper color? Perhaps using an ink? I realize getting the correct color match is probably a difficult or even near impossible task, considering most stains are wood colored and inks are usually black/blue. I was just thinking if it's possible to stain the vinyl, it would eliminate the problem of flaking.


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## Chrisisall

Dave in RI said:


> I may be totally barking up the wrong tree with this idea, but is it possible to stain / dye the vinyl the proper color?


The thing is that it's not vinyl. It's an oily plastic. Sure you can scuff the surface & apply a dye, but getting the correct colour would be impossible IMO. If you want to paint it & never really touch or change it, then any paint would do, or just use the pieces as they are (they ARE fairly close to the correct third season colour) then fine. :thumbsup:


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## Zombie_61

In the category of "throw it at the wall to see if it sticks", I've heard automotive primers have more "bite" than primers designed for plastics and vinyls and, as such, adhere to the parent material (whatever that might be) more securely. Has anyone tried this yet? I know you (Chrisisall) used automotive _paint_ at one point, but that the primer beneath that was questionable so I'm wondering if a solid foundation (i.e. a primer that adheres properly) is the key.


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## hal9001

Chris, have you ever consulted with the folks at Moebius about this? Maybe they can contact Longdong Wong in China to try and find out what this crazy material really is!

Just a thought.

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

Zombie_61 said:


> In the category of "throw it at the wall to see if it sticks", I've heard automotive primers have more "bite"


That was the primer I tried.:freak:
So far, Krylon has worked best, but it still scrapes off easier than I want it to. Funny though, it sticks to my test soda bottle _perfectly_!
Next up: Krylon Fusion.


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Chris, have you ever consulted with the folks at Moebius about this? Maybe they can contact Longdong Wong in China to try and find out what this crazy material really is!


The guys at the factory say they actually don't know themselves what it is _precisely_. The formula for it was 'given' to them by the same guy who told them how to make transparent aluminium...


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## jimkirk

Chrisisall said:


> The guys at the factory say they actually don't know themselves what it is _precisely_. The formula for it was 'given' to them by the same guy who told them how to make transparent aluminium...


Hmm could possibly be this guy.


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## Chrisisall

Don't know. They called him Hóng shān Qíjī. I think it means "Red shirt miracle".
Anyway, Fusion no good. Looks like regular Krylon at the moment. More soon.


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## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> The guys at the factory say they actually don't know themselves what it is _precisely_. The formula for it was 'given' to them by the same guy who told them how to make transparent aluminium...


Ah, the ole ''that guy/other guy" routine, huh? We no know, check with him....

If only the *Miracle Worker *was still with us. He'd figure it out!

Carl-


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## spawndude

Has anyone tried the Duplicolor "Adhesion Promoter" on these vinyl (or whatever they are) parts?


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## vypurr59

You might want to get from an Auto Paint Supplier a product like a Flex Agent made specifically for the rubber bumpers and flexible body parts(like a Corvette) Mixed with the paint is supposed to allow flexing without peeling. Have not had to use on models but have painted a few Corvettes.


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## Zombie_61

Chrisisall said:


> That was the primer I tried.:freak:
> So far, Krylon has worked best, but it still scrapes off easier than I want it to. Funny though, it sticks to my test soda bottle _perfectly_!


Well, it was worth a shot. At least we now know the B9's arms aren't made from recycled soda bottles.


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## Chrisisall

Zombie_61 said:


> Well, it was worth a shot. At least we now know the B9's arms aren't made from recycled soda bottles.


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## hal9001

*Mr. Comedian*.....

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

Okay guys, here are my final findings (unless I find more findings):
I soaked all the parts in mineral spirits, and most of the vinyl Duplicolor spray came right off- EXCEPT on the thick parts that didn't flex much. In fact I had a HARD time removing it in those areas. Meaning, the stuff adheres very well indeed, but it's NOT flexible. Solution? I'm going to back all the parts with epoxy putty and make them NOT flexible anymore, then just repaint them with the Duplicolor grey vinyl spray. The stuff will also act as a primer for the slightly darker grey I intend to make them. 
So basically, 1) wash & scrub the parts REALLY well, 2) sand them too, 3) back them so they won't flex, 4) Duplicolor them, 5) whatever after that.

I hope this helps everyone.:thumbsup:


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## hal9001

My best to you, sounds good, hope you've found the solution Chris! :thumbsup:

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> My best to you, sounds good, hope you've found the solution Chris! :thumbsup:


Well, the REAL solution would have been to make the parts styrene in the first place, but whatcha gonna do?


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## Zombie_61

Chrisisall said:


> Okay guys, here are my final findings (unless I find more findings)...I hope this helps everyone.:thumbsup:


It certainly helped me to decide to leave them whatever color they are out of the box.


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## Chrisisall

Zombie_61 said:


> It certainly helped me to decide to leave them whatever color they are out of the box.


Looks like a toy that way...

Okay, my test worked: I used 1/2 stick of epoxy putty and slid it in and flattened all over the insides of an arm from both ends (I had to cut an opening on the closed side) with my pinky. It's thin enough not to add crazy weight to the arms yet thick enough not to allow any flexing or bending at all. :thumbsup:


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## hal9001

Chris, maybe this will be the magic potion! What type of putty did you use? One thing I thought of (I have some crazy ideas sometimes) is the expanding foam in a can, the type used for sealing windows and doors (it doesn't over expand). It's more sponge like and not too heavy. If you get too much in it, it's easy to dig out. Disadvantage is it's *THE* most sticky stuff ever created by man!!!

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Chris, maybe this will be the magic potion! What type of putty did you use?


It's LOCTITE repair putty- I got it at Walmart. It's what I used to make most of the curved parts on my Assault Phaser.


> One thing I thought of (I have some crazy ideas sometimes) is the expanding foam in a can, the type used for sealing windows and doors (it doesn't over expand). It's more sponge like and not too heavy. If you get too much in it, it's easy to dig out. Disadvantage is it's *THE* most sticky stuff ever created by man!!!


I thought of that, but I have no experience with it, so I defaulted to what I'm familiar with. In the end, making the arm & leg parts not flex is the goal, however it's reached. I'll spray the vinyl grey on tomorrow & replace the arm, then I'll finally finish work on the other two 'bots.


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## hal9001

*"It's LOCTITE repair putty", *what's the work time for this putty Chris? After watching you build the phaser, and using this putty, sounds like something I need to look into. I'll assume it's a two parter?

Carl-


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> what's the work time for this putty Chris? After watching you build the phaser, and using this putty, sounds like something I need to look into. I'll assume it's a two parter?


It's a tube of junk you knead and then it starts to get hot. Five minute work time (or less, if you spend too much time messing with it), then it starts to solidify, you gotta be quick!


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> My best to you, sounds good, hope you've found the solution Chris! :thumbsup:


I did.:thumbsup:
Repainted & replaced. No cracking.




BUT. No flexability also means you'll have a devil of a time removing the arms once inserted, so act like whatever you choose is permanent.


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## hal9001

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: *Hallelujah*!, brother Chris, *Hallelujah*!

If you're happy and you know it clap your hands.....(I wonder how many actually do....)

Why would you want to remove the arms anyway? To fit B-9's mood? 

Again congrats,
Carl-

*P.S. Looks fabuloso by the wayo!!*


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## Chrisisall

hal9001 said:


> Why would you want to remove the arms anyway? To fit B-9's mood?


Well, I originally wanted the arms in, but it looked so static. I was playing with the idea that you could change them periodically, but then I found the cracking problem. If you squeezed the arm just a _little_ bit it came off like leaves. So I had to find a solution. And it's a trade off. No easy interchangability, but a solid and non-flaking base for the vinyl automotive paint. 
So, one in and one out. I'm happy with that look.
My client wants them both out (he's an action dude I guess).:thumbsup:


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## hal9001

Chrisisall said:


> Well, I originally wanted the arms in, but it looked so static. I was playing with the idea that you could change them periodically, but then I found the cracking problem. If you squeezed the arm just a _little_ bit it came off like leaves. So I had to find a solution. And it's a trade off. No easy interchangability, but a solid and non-flaking base for the vinyl automotive paint.
> So, one in and one out. I'm happy with that look.
> My client wants them both out (he's an action dude I guess).:thumbsup:


Didn't even notice the one in, one out! Now you don't have to make up your mind!!! :thumbsup:

Carl-


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## DCH10664

That's one fine looking first season Robot !!! :thumbsup: Absolutely excellent :thumbsup: I think I'm going to use your idea of making the arms and legs non-flexible. Looks like it will save me some headaches.


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## Chrisisall

DCH10664 said:


> That's one fine looking first season Robot !!!


Thanks so much!

Well, I Backed the leg parts, which was a pain because this junk sets solid in about seven minutes, and I had to dry fit all the parts immediately after application to make sure they'd fit AFTER the epoxy putty turned rock hard...

Ahhh, it worked.


So that's the season 2 legs, my client's season ones are like on mine- totally solid, so I only have to do this leg backing once.


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