# Seaview Detailing



## irocer (Aug 22, 2000)

I am just getting started on this beauty and want to detail it a bit. Since I am not so well versed on the Seaview I was looking for what everyone else was doing to detail/improve accuracy or enhance this kit. Anybody got any suggestions or ideas.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Just a couple of threads here on HobbyTalk ...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218570
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218508
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218359
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218233
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218748
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=217718
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218289
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=218509
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=215196


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I think overall the kit is really well done and can be built out-of-the-box with just good modelling skills. Adding/correcting/modifying detail inside is really moot as you can barely see past the front bulkhead once the hull is all together and closed up. If you don't add interior lights, everything you get in the kit is perfectly usable as-is. I painted everything carefully, and in the case of the figures, for a couple that are particularly visible like Admiral Nelson in the bow, I chose to exaggerate the shading and detailing a bit to make them stand out a bit more in the dark.

Getting the big parts together and eliminating seams will be your biggest task. Everything fits and lines up pretty well, but there are still seams to fill and level off. I had to putty and sand the side joint and the front/back hull top seams two or three times for the best finish. Nothing difficult, just time consuming.

Overall its very very very builder-friendly. What impressed me is that you can get the big sub feel fast... it doesnt take long for this baby to come together!


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

djnick66 said:


> I think overall the kit is really well done and can be built out-of-the-box with just good modelling skills. Adding/correcting/modifying detail inside is really moot as you can barely see past the front bulkhead once the hull is all together and closed up. If you don't add interior lights, everything you get in the kit is perfectly usable as-is. I painted everything carefully, and in the case of the figures, for a couple that are particularly visible like Admiral Nelson in the bow, I chose to exaggerate the shading and detailing a bit to make them stand out a bit more in the dark.
> 
> Getting the big parts together and eliminating seams will be your biggest task. Everything fits and lines up pretty well, but there are still seams to fill and level off. I had to putty and sand the side joint and the front/back hull top seams two or three times for the best finish. Nothing difficult, just time consuming.
> 
> Overall its very very very builder-friendly. What impressed me is that you can get the big sub feel fast... it doesnt take long for this baby to come together!


Agreed:thumbsup:

the Kit practically falls together, and the seams are just a matter of taking your time.

The other stuff , for guys like me, is where the real Fun begins!!
Try to explain to your Wife, why you need to watch Voyage DVDS ALL THE TIME!!!!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Just found this link to a site where you can view entire VTTBOTS episodes:

http://www.fancast.com/tv/Voyage-to-the-Bottom-of-the-Sea/3435/watch-it/on-fancast


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## irocer (Aug 22, 2000)

Thanks for the responses guys. I too got the general feel that this is a easy build- meaning it was engineered well with the builder in mind. I think I may just go OOTB with a very painted interior. I do like what I see with Paulbo's PE set, but soon to be bad job situation will prevent further funding of this beauty.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If you are not going to light it, dont waste too much time on the interior... you can't see past the front bulkhead to any great extent.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Why anyone would spend 80-90 bucks on this kit and not light it is mind boggling. I mean LED's, solder, and wire aren't THAT expensive are they ?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Trekkriffic said:


> Why anyone would spend 80-90 bucks on this kit and not light it is mind boggling. I mean LED's, solder, and wire aren't THAT expensive are they ?


Not really but you need the right combination of things and usually some sort of circuit to run them through. I'd say you can get it all in the $50 range, although my own experience with LED's has been minimal. They require a bit more effort to rig than bulbs, but are much more positive in the end.

I didn't light my sub... I look at this as sort of a test kit for a future kit with lights and more detail.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I hope to use a led string of christmas lights to light my seaview....I can find smaller leds, and am hoping to put them into the tail lights, instead of messing with fiber optics.

Clear led Christmas light strings were $4 on sale.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

gareee said:


> I hope to use a led string of christmas lights to light my seaview....I can find smaller leds, and am hoping to put them into the tail lights, instead of messing with fiber optics.
> 
> Clear led Christmas light strings were $4 on sale.


I have a set of battery lights that would work and you can put the battery box in the flying sub bay.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I'm going to make those 2 display mount holes into a method to light and charge my Seaview. I'l cut down the length of one of the mounting posts but leave the second intact. I'll use a home made contact thing that, when the model is OFF the stand, will be lit, OR of I place it on the stand facing the other way (short post) it will be lit. 

I'm still debating on whether to add in a raising/lowering gadget in the FS1 bay.

I wish the folks promising the lighting kit would HURRY UP!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Y3a;2388557
I wish the folks promising the lighting kit would HURRY UP![/QUOTE said:


> Don't you know the only way to make it get here faster is to do it yourself! Same thing with new kit releases. YOU Buy the big resin or display model and bammo... big mainstream plastic kit appears!


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

djnick66 said:


> I have a set of battery lights that would work and you can put the battery box in the flying sub bay.


I'm avoiding battery lights for one reason.. I don't want to change batteries out all the time, and I'll put the seaview on a timer, so it comes on every night, and shuts off every morning.

I've got tons of battry power led light things.. small tea lights, battery sets n such, but I want my seaview to be a tabletop model, or probably roost it on the mantel as my trophy once it's done for a few months.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I never run my powered/light up models much. Plus my Seaview will be in my store and Im not open at night or when its really dark much. I don't like wires going to a model either. I prefer things to be all self contained. But again in my store because the space is converted from an exterior breeze way in the shopping center, I have no electrical outlets in the store outer area!


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Ah, well then you have to go the battery route. it just seems with any model, when you replace batteries, some minor damage always occurs over time.

I used to hate running model lights all the time, because those "grain of wheat" bulbs or even Christmas lights generate a LOT of heat for a plastic model, but since leds last almost forever, and generate no heat at all, they are just fine for running all the time, and inside styrene kits.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I find with new battery technology, etc things are a lot simpler. It used to be you had to use some big D cell flashlight batteries and heat generating bulbs. Now, as you say, LEDs are the way to go, and there are newer, smaller batteries and even capacitors you can use on a model. I buy cheap little RC toys and take them apart to see what you get and how they work. Its amazing what comes in just a cheap TOY nowdays. Flashing lights, sound chips, tiny motors, etc.


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

djnick66 said:


> If you are not going to light it, dont waste too much time on the interior... you can't see past the front bulkhead to any great extent.


I agree. I see two options with the interior. Build it and leave it outside the Sub, so you can enjoy the detail work. Build the interior, up to the interior crash doors, so you don't waste your time on what you can't see.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Yeah DJnick, same here.. but those damned little watch batteries never last very long and are expensive to replace.. hence my desire to use an electric house n plug solution.

I suppose I could use a set of 4 rechargeable aa batteries for power, but I do want it on nightly for at least 5 or 6 hours, and odds are I'd still be looking at a bi weekly or monthy charge on them, more then I want to do.


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## Knight1966 (Sep 25, 2007)

here are some interior detail shots for you all









































































Hope they help


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## JohnGuard (Jan 13, 2008)

yes!! more color pic's!!!!!!!


so. i guess there is no one way to make the Seaview, huh?

it's all interpetation?

i mean the Flying Sub is yellow

the Seaview is ??.....some shade of grey depending on what pic you look at?


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

JohnGuard said:


> yes!! more color pic's!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> so. i guess there is no one way to make the Seaview, huh?
> ...


or depending on which model they were using, or which season.

Upside means odds are it'll be harder to do it wrong.. LOL!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

How are people planning on displaying their Seaviews? By this I mean, are you planning on using the kit-supplied stand and, if so, are you going to glue it in place or leave it removable?

(Yes, I am asking this for a reason having to do with Gil's lighting kit that I'm helping him with.)

Also - with a proper interior lighting setup (which Gil has!) you don't have to stop at the crash doors to have an interior that's fully visible.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Paulbo,
I am lighting my kit and I'm also using the stock stand. the pedestal is big enough that i'm putting one power switch and a power jack in the front one.

the only modification I'm making to the base is to add solid bottoms to them to close them in.

hope this helps and I'm looking forward to your setup. (I'm on a deadline on this first one. next time around, I want to use all the toys


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I will use the kit pedestals but will probably screw the top finial part to the lower half for strength, or maybe use something like a thin toggle bole through the two parts for each base and into the sub hull so it doesnt come apart. Actually mounting the two pedestals to a wooden base with screws is probably best and would keep the model from toppling over. As-is its somewhat top heavy as you have a largish, heavy sub supported on two pedestals that are much narrower than the sub above


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## mike1 (May 19, 2008)

i notice you can fit 2 AA batterys inside the coning tower, you could put them and the switch inside there, as long as you are happy leaving the conning tower free to lift off


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

gareee said:


> I hope to use a led string of christmas lights to light my seaview....I can find smaller leds, and am hoping to put them into the tail lights, instead of messing with fiber optics.
> 
> Clear led Christmas light strings were $4 on sale.


Thought I'd go with the leds in the tail lights too, but even the 2mm needed a lot of work to fit. :freak: In the end I went with fibre optics collated and inserted in the channel and shrnk wrapped onto the two leds.

I'm running f/o's thru the control room as well as detailed painting. I to grabed a set of xmas lights with a flashing controler that I am re-wirering to run both flashing and non flashing leds thru the model. :thumbsup:


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Paulbo said:


> How are people planning on displaying their Seaviews? By this I mean, are you planning on using the kit-supplied stand and, if so, are you going to glue it in place or leave it removable?


I plan on doing mine on a diorama style of base using all three models some rock scenery from my wh40k gaming days. with power running up to the seaview from the base disquised as kelp seaweed or similar. 

But as it has taken about 3-5 hours to paint, detail and run some f/optics on one wall of the control room... :freak: the base is a way off me thinks


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Here's my highly elaborate wiring for the stand
9v adapter plugs in the back, switch on the front, wiring runs up to the circuit board.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I'm putting some RC car size nicads in mine to run the 25 or so LED's and a motor for flying sub winch. I'll charge it off hidden contacts on the under side of the Rudders. I'm gonna use a leaf switch over a long mounting post on the display stand. The other mounting post is much shorter. Facing with Bow to right and OFF the stand is lit, facing with Bow off left side is dark. Good for charging.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Lou, what kind of lights are you powering,and was that stuff easily available at radio shack?


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