# McG in FSM



## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

In case you missed it, and I don't see how you could, but our own Mark McGovern is featured in this months Reader's Gallery. Well, actually it's his model of actor Colin Clive as Dr. Frankenstein that's featured.
Mark would have mentioned this himself but he's still recovering from a nasty magnagougher accident and still can't type to well. 

Excellent build up, Mark! :thumbsup:


----------



## RogueJ (Oct 29, 2000)

Congrats Mark. That makes two BSM in FSM.

John


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Yeek...McGee's gonna maim himself beyond repair with dat ol' debbil magnagouger one of these days...:drunk:Congrats, ol' bean! :thumbsup:


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Yeah, I saw his picture in there. But what model did he build?


----------



## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Maybe the model built him? 

Good job!

My Dad's models made FSM twice, but I still have to get in any magazine yet!


----------



## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Kudos Mcgee ! Where can a non-subscriber see a photo of said iconic modeling endeavor ?


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Garsh, thanks guys - but don't be too impressed just yet...the check hasn't come in. Still, it just goes to show what can happen _if you submit stuff_ to the magazine. Dabs, the photos I sent to _FineScale Modeler _haven't been put up on their web site yet, but you can see some others of the model here: http://members.toast.net/blackswampmodelers/MM_Miscellaneous Page.htm

Have a great weekend,

Mark McG.


----------



## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Nice going McGee. I wish I'd done a tad more detail on my Dr. F.'s face. Cool idea on the jar.


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Way to go Mark. :dude: 

RK


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Thanks, Roy.

Dabs, I'm not happy with the way the eyes came out. And although I feel I did a good job of translating Mr. Clive's flesh tones from the black and white films into color, I've never felt that he looked as good as some other "Crazy Am I?" builds I've seen where the modeler painted really dark hollows around the eyes. But mine's made the rounds of local, regional and the 2001 National IPMS shows as well as WonderFest, so he's retired for now.

Mark McG.


----------



## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

Right on, Mark! I'll have to pick up an issue just to check out your pics. I usually don't browse that one too often. You did a great job on Clive. I did see the pics on your site through the link you provided.

I am not trying to get O.T. here but......not only have you done _the_ best Big Franky I have ever seen but you also have done _the_ best Brother Rat fink I have ever seen. It would be a crime for me as a finkster to let that pass without comment.

Now I must go wash some of the brown from my nose....


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Last night I went through a whole stack of Magazines and couldn't find Mark in any of them...then I realized I was reading SWANK (again)......so I grabbed my FSM and there you were :thumbsup: kudos Mark :thumbsup:
Mcdee


----------



## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

I picked up my issue Saturday and was impressed my you painting and modeling skills. Keep up the great work. :thumbsup::woohoo:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Duck Fink said:


> ...Now I must go wash some of the brown from my nose....


Thanks for the kind remarks, D.F. And may I say that thanks to them, Mrs. McG. will be glad not to have to use so much Shout when she launders the McG-string today...:freak:



mcdougall said:


> ...couldn't find Mark in any of them...then I realized I was reading SWANK (again)...


Mcdee, it took me years to get something in _FSM_. But I can guarantee that you will never, no not *ever*, see my pictures in_ Swank_! Not for my lack of having tried...

Drac, that you took the trouble and expense to look at _FineScale Modeler _is as sincere a compilment as I've ever gotten and I thank you for it_._ Now that you've mentioned it here, I suggest that you tell _FSM_'s editors that one photo of a Sci-Fi/Fantasy figure inspired you to buy the mag. Maybe that will inspire _them_ to include more of Our Kind of Models in _FSM_!

Mark McG.


----------



## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> Thanks for the kind remarks, D.F. And may I say that thanks to them, Mrs. McG. will be glad not to have to use so much Shout when she launders the McG-string today...:freak:


AHAHAHA...the McG-string!  That's funny stuff!:lol:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

You wouldn't think so if you'd seen me in it, D.F....

Mark McG.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Mark McGovern said:


> You wouldn't think so if you'd seen me in it, D.F....
> 
> Mark McG.


OK.... There goes my lunch...:drunk:
Mcdee

and that was a new Swank mag too.....misery...


----------



## normlbd (Nov 2, 2001)

Saw it on the stands today. Looks outstanding.


----------



## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> Thanks, Roy.
> 
> Dabs, I'm not happy with the way the eyes came out. And although I feel I did a good job of translating Mr. Clive's flesh tones from the black and white films into color, I've never felt that he looked as good as some other "Crazy Am I?" builds I've seen where the modeler painted really dark hollows around the eyes. But mine's made the rounds of local, regional and the 2001 National IPMS shows as well as WonderFest, so he's retired for now.
> 
> Mark McG.


O great Mark share your painting techniques with us. The model looks fantastic wish I had your talent. :thumbsup::woohoo:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

normlbd said:


> Saw it on the stands today. Looks outstanding.


A hit! A palpable hit!!!



Dracula said:


> ... wish I had your talent.


You probably do, Drac, maybe you only lack some experience. That comes in time - I've been building for almost half a century and one day soon, I'm hoping to get a model done right! I could use up all the space on Hankster's server to describe painting models, but here's a few pointers:

- Artists' oils give you the best control for painting lifelike flesh tones. Spray a base coat of whatever color you want the final flesh tone to be using hobby paints. In the case of Mr.Clive, I used Testors oil-based paints (that I use for 90% or more of all my modeling) mixed to produce a pale, slightly sallow color.

Once the base color has dried, I start modeling it with the shadow colors that I mix from artists oils into a darker version of the flesh tone. The important thing to remember when working with oils is that a little goes a long way, so this blob of shadow color will be about the size of a large pea. I lay in the shadows and feather them out into the surrounding flesh. The thin application of paint dries in about eight hours, after which I lighten the flesh tone and sort of drybush the color over the face. I keep repeating the process until I've got the appearance I'm looking for.

The great thing about the artist oils besides the working time is that they can be applied very thin and yet still color the surface. So I can apply a lighter color over the shadow work without obscuring the darker color. This gives the lifelike appearance of looking through several layers of skin that real flesh has. That's why I try to approximate the overall flesh tone with the Testors base coat - _even that _will show through all the subequent layers of artist oils.

- I paint the eyes after the shadows are done. First and most important, I "aim" the eyes by marking the location of the pupils (if they weren't sculpted in) with a pencil. Once I'm sure my figure won't be wall-eyed or cross-eyed, I drill out the pupils with a pin vise - this doesn't require a huge crater, just a round dent of the correct diameter. Next I paint the whites of the eyes and the pinkish flesh lining of the eyelids. Then I draw the irises around the pupils and paint them. The eyes get protected by an application of Future Acrylic Floor Polish that I let dry thoroughly before I continue on with the flesh tones.

- The hairline is very important, because if it's done right it adds incredibly to the lifelike appearance of the figure; if not, the figure looks like a doll. A natural hairline usually fades into the skin, with the hair getting finer, more sparse, and lighter in color as it fades into the flesh. But I've seen some otherwise excellent painters ignore this and paint their figure's hairline with a sharp edge or maybe tiny streaks of hair color. To my eyes, neither are as convicining as the gradiations that can be acheived with artists oils.

The hairline begins with the working of that shadow flesh color up into the hair a bit. After the face is done I mix some of the flesh color into the hair color to create an intermediary gray that I can gently feather into the shadow color in the hairline. Next I select a spot far back in the area of the hair and paint that the darkest hair color. As I get to the hairline, I blend the pure hair color into that intermediary tone. On Colin Clive the whole transition area along the hairline was no more than 1/16" wide, but it made all the difference in making the hair look real.

There's a couple ideas for ya - now have at it and then post us some pics - or better still, send 'em to _FSM!_

Mark McG.


----------



## Duck Fink (May 2, 2005)

Your tips are appreciated, Mark!


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

You evidently haven't talked to anyone who's ever served me in a restaurant, D.F.! Seriously though, your appreciation is appreciated.

Mark McG.


----------



## Gerry-Lynn (Mar 20, 2002)

Hey Mark - Great job! I think you "Nailed" it just right. I, too, like using oil - The pastels are much easier to use them the chalks, etc. It's good to see BB members in the Main Stream Mags.

By the way - "The Thing" I have, too. I got mine from "Action Hobbies" I think Larry did a great job on casting those up. 

Gerry-Lynn


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

GL,

Thank you for the compliment. I was referring to artists oil paints out of the tubes when I was discussing the painting of flesh tones. But for many jobs oil pastels are useful, too. Once in a while I break out the colored chalks, but their opacity leaves much to be desired.

There are a lot of "Things" out there - which one were you referring to? Sorry to have to admit that I'm not familiar with Larry, but his work certainly speaks for itself.

Mark McG.


----------



## Gerry-Lynn (Mar 20, 2002)

Hey Mark G,

I use the oil paints as well. I agree about the chalk pastels - I still prefer the oils. There is an acrylic/oil paint - It takes several hours to dry... But like oil - It holds the color after cure time... which makes it easier to match color if need be. There is no smell, or solvents - Just water base. I think Windsor makes it.

Action hobbies is out of Cox Creek, Kentucky. The "Thing" I bought from him was of the Billkin (spelling?) He has the Dave Cochran "The Phantom" that Rick Wyatt did before we lost him.

Anyway... Always enjoy your work and lessions you give - I'm not a painter... The info you give; as with many others on the BB - does help a lot. Thanks. 

Gerry-Lynn


----------



## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

hey hey , congrats Mark ! 
one of these days i'm gonna hafta try the oil paints . 
what colors would you suggest to have to do skin tones ? 
hb


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Flesh.


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

To elucidate on that pain Payne's suggestion, beck, I suggest you get to your favorite art supply outlet (watch for sales at Michael's in their Sunday newspaper ads) and get a beginner's artists oils set. You'll get several small tubes of paint for around $20. Get the large tubes each of white and black, which will be necessary but don't usually come with the sets.

These generally include some earth colors; ochre, sienna, and umber, along with brighter colors; red, blue, yellow, and green (they may have fancy names like "alizarin crimnson" or "cadmium yellow", but they're still red and yellow). You'll also need a palette on which to mix the colors; the place where you're getting your paints may have 'em, but any flat white non-porous surface will serve. I use a sheet of glass that I sprayed white on the underside. Don't forget a palette knife - a handy tool for lots of other jobs besides mixing paint.

When you mix a flesh tone, try to squeeze the smallest possible dab of paint from each tube you need to use. I may start with a bit more brown and red, because I know that's how I work with colors. You can always get more out of the tube, but you can never put excess paint back in. Once you find a formula that makes the color you want, you can squeeze out more paint if you need it. A 1/4 inch long worm of paint would be a huge amount for me.

When your current painting seesion is over, cover your palette with a piece of cellophane. Otherwise your precious flesh tone can dry out overnight. When I've finally completed painting my projects I let the paint dry out - the great thing about my glass palette is that I can easily scrape the dried paint off the surface with a single-edge razor blade.

Hope this helps.

Mark McG.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Will oil paints do any damage to styrene, Mark? When I purchase the Glow Nossy I'd like to use oil paints to add shadows to his face and hands to accentuate the glow effect.


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

deadie,

I have always used artists oils over coats of primer and oil-based hobby paints, but not directly on bare plastic. That said, I don't see why oils would harm styrene - they're not too different chemically from Testors, etc. So I don't see why you couldn't use oils successfully. I will say that when I was doing glow kits, I detailed the parts with washes of hobby paint. That way the phosphorescence would show through the thinned paint with the lights out while the detailing would be apparent with the lights on.

Frankly though, I got away from glow kits because I couldn't paint them with a realistic finish without negating the luminosity of the parts. I did find that mounting a fluorescent black light lamp over my hobby shelf gave a cool effect - it illuminated the non-glow areas with a dim purple light and made the glow parts shine fiercely. But except for the Polar Lights reissues of the Mummy's Chariot and Addam's Family House I don't plan on doing glow kits any time soon.

Mark McG.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Despite having gone to art school and learned oil painting, I hate oil painting, and have forgotten everything about it. On my rare figger models, I make do with airbrushing bottle fleshtones and doing a little chalk pastel makeup work.


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

I hear ya, J.P. But I've found that oils work very well when lighter colors are drybrushed over darker ones, the wet-on-dry technique. If somethings goes wrong (like when I over-drybrush and scrub off a lower layer of oil paint, creating a bright spot of pure base coat) I can always let that application dry, then go back over the problem area. Since nothing is ever completely obscured by the suceeding applications of paint the effect is that much more varigated and natural.

I did try going wet-on-wet with James Bond; he came out okay, I would humbly submit. The point is, with a little practice in handling them, artists oils can be our friends!

Mark McG.


----------



## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

Thanks Mark for your dissertation on painting with artist oil extremely helpful, when the modeling bug hits give it a try. As for FSM I am writing and asking if they can do feature articles on monster and Sci-Fi modeling.:thumbsup:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

They'll look at your article, Drac. Just make sure to follow their submissions guidelines for articles and photos. That's what I did when I entered their "Be An Author" contest last year. They bought the article, but I have no idea when or if it'll be published.

Mark McG.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Many thanks for the tips, Mark! :thumbsup:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

You're welcome, deadie. Maybe, instead of schlepping this stuff out piecemeal on the forums, I'll just write a book. It'll have pages with big margins so everybody can note where I fouled up.

Mark McG.


----------



## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> You're welcome, deadie. Maybe, instead of schlepping this stuff out piecemeal on the forums, I'll just write a book. It'll have pages with big margins so everybody can note where I fouled up.
> 
> Mark McG.


Mark great idea and would buy several copies. :woohoo:


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

I'd definitely be in for a copy too!!:woohoo:

Chris.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

And Deadman makes three! Foolish question for you, Mark...when you said you used washes of hobby paint, were you referring to paints such as Testor's enamels,etc.?


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

deadmanincfan said:


> And Deadman makes three! Foolish question for you, Mark...when you said you used washes of hobby paint, were you referring to paints such as Testor's enamels,etc.?


Don't get me started you guys - I'll do it, I'm not kidding...! 

Fwee..fwee...now what was the question? Oh yeah, washes. Deadie, when I speak of hobby paints I'm referring almost exclusively to oil-based products, primarily Testors. I've been using their paints since the first Johnson Administration (Lyndon, that is - not Andrew).

Mark McG.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Is that a threat or a promise, McGee? ...and I didn't think you'd been around quite THAT long..."Lyndon, that is...not Andrew"...bwah ha ha!


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Just keepin' it covered, Deadie...:dude:

Mark McG.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

thank you, brother!


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Mark McGovern said:


> Don't get me started you guys - I'll do it, I'm not kidding...!
> 
> 
> 
> Mark McG.


Go on- I dare you.........

Chris.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Auroranut said:


> Go on- I dare you.........
> 
> Chris.


I Triple dog dare you!:tongue:
Mcdee


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

_TRIPLE DOG?!!?? _Oh fudge - now I hafta do it.

Mark McGeez, retirement is *killing *me!


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

We've all gotta die of something!! As long as it benefits us, that's all that matters. Don't be so selfish!!

Chris.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Mark McGovern said:


> _TRIPLE DOG?!!?? _Oh fudge - now I hafta do it.
> 
> Mark McGeez, retirement is *killing *me!


Except...he didn't say Fudge......
I'll reserve a copy of that book too please...and could I have mine autographed?
Mcdee


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Could I have my copy leather bound with embossed gold leaf please?

Chris.


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

mcdougall said:


> ...and could I have mine autographed?
> Mcdee


Sure, mcdee, just as soon as I _write it. _



auroranut said:


> Could I have my copy leather bound with embossed gold leaf please?


Gosh, Chris, don't think so small...let's get 'er bound in *solid gold*. :hat:

Mark McG.


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Thank you Mark!! I really appreciate that. Regardless of what everyone else says, I think you're cool....

Chris.


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Back atcha A-nut...just because we're paranoid doesn't mean we don't have enemies. :freak:

Mark McG.


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Chris.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

...it's only paranoia if they're NOT after you...:freak:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

...Which is why I have a crick in my neck, from having to constantly look over my shoulder.

You guys might not be hearing from me for awhile. I'm already on Chapter Two of my book, which is tentatively titled _Fantastic Figures. _Fred DeRuvo, our own BatFanMan, sped the work up enormously by being gracious enough to allow me to include some of material I wrote for _Modelers' Resource_. But there's still a long ways to go.

See you all ASAP,

Mark McG.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

I miss him already
Mcdee


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Just remember Mark- you promised me a solid gold issue. I'll assume it's complimentary.......:thumbsup:
Seriously though, if you're writing a book on you techniques, PLEASE put me down for a copy!! It's about time there was a how-to guide for the larger scale figures, and if you're sharing your incredible skills, it can't lose!! 
Is it coming out through Kalmbach?

Chris.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

I'm with A-Nut...I'm in for a copy too, Mark! :thumbsup:


----------



## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Mark McGovern said:


> ... I'm already on Chapter Two of my book, which is tentatively titled _Fantastic Figures._
> Mark McG.


Mark's writing a book!?! I'm still waitng for him to read a book! 

Seriously, I really enjoyed his Modeler's Resource articles on building Robin the Boy Wonder. 

I'll be keeping an eye out for that book, Mark.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

*That's what Quasimodo said...*

I'll be keeping an eye out for that book, Mark.

Does it come with it's own bookmark ? cool


Please reserve me one too:thumbsup:
Mcdee


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Just a quickie to say I'm on it, guys. In fact, I'd be glad of a little input: I've got a fairly big chapter on the basics, from where to set up shop through the basic tools for assembling a model to why a modeler needs a spray booth. My question is, would you prefer this kind of material as Chapter One or as an appendix?

Chapter Two covers the basic procedures to go through before starting to build any model - checking the parts against the instructions, planning the build, etc. Chapter Three starts with a build of a simple injection-molded kit, with the *thinking *behind the various steps described as much as the building itself. It is the strategies for building kits that I want to focus on, so this book won't be just an expanded version of a hobby 'zine.

I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks,

Mark McG.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Great to hear from you Mark...My vote goes to format this as Chapter 1...I like the way it lays out the parameters and gives an overall ground work that will naturally come to a focal point...I believe it opens the door wide for Chapter two where you are more hands on the actual preliminaries of starting the model:thumbsup: I like it...
Mcdee


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Exactly Mcdee!! It's always best to start with the basic neccessities like tools and their use. That way they're more likely to pick up the stuff they need before starting a model.
Maybe you could include a glossary and suppliers list in the back.

Chris.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

And of course it should include Photos of Chris and I ...Obviously ...your Editors... 
Mcdee


----------



## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

:wave:


Mark McGovern said:


> Just a quickie to say I'm on it, guys. In fact, I'd be glad of a little input: I've got a fairly big chapter on the basics, from where to set up shop through the basic tools for assembling a model to why a modeler needs a spray booth. My question is, would you prefer this kind of material as Chapter One or as an appendix?
> 
> Chapter Two covers the basic procedures to go through before starting to build any model - checking the parts against the instructions, planning the build, etc. Chapter Three starts with a build of a simple injection-molded kit, with the *thinking *behind the various steps described as much as the building itself. It is the strategies for building kits that I want to focus on, so this book won't be just an expanded version of a hobby 'zine.
> 
> ...


Just as you stated keep chapter one basic tools and work shop space. Cant wait for the chapters on oil painting and advance finishing technique.:wave:


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

The problem I've always had with writing is getting too close to the material and not being sure how it plays to others. Dracula reinforced an idea I was toying with: instead of making Chapter 3 the discussion of injection-molded kits, I think I'll make it Busts. That way I can continue to address procedures that are common to all figure models before veering off onto specific types of kits. Working with busts, I can talk about the techniques for painting flesh tones, eyes, and hairlines, and especially the issue of What Color Scheme Is The Correct One? (That will take up a whole lot less space than the proper shade of gray for the hull of the starship _Enterprise_ than it does in the Sci-Fi books, I promise!)

You guys will all get credit as Editors, but only in the deluxe solid gold cover edition.  Really, though, thanks for your input, guys.

Mark McG.


----------



## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> The problem I've always had with writing is getting too close to the material and not being sure how it plays to others. Dracula reinforced an idea I was toying with: instead of making Chapter 3 the discussion of injection-molded kits, I think I'll make it Busts. That way I can continue to address procedures that are common to all figure models before veering off onto specific types of kits. Working with busts, I can talk about the techniques for painting flesh tones, eyes, and hairlines, and especially the issue of What Color Scheme Is The Correct One? (That will take up a whole lot less space than the proper shade of gray for the hull of the starship _Enterprise_ than it does in the Sci-Fi books, I promise!)
> 
> You guys will all get credit as Editors, but only in the deluxe solid gold cover edition.  Really, though, thanks for your input, guys.
> 
> Mark McG.


Put me down for one no make that two copies of the gold edition. I cant wait to read chapter three.:thumbsup:


----------

