# W.I.P. (time bandits)



## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

Here is a work in progress (3 months off and on). Just got the wheels off a JL Dragon Wagon, still need to drill and mount the rears. And I need to do a little detail painting. But I like how it is turning out so far.

Jeff

oops, files too big, will add them to the photoalbum...

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=19982


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

Cool, nice pics. Is it just me or do others like looking at pics of other peoples customs? I could look for hours.


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

Sethndaddy, Thanks and I am sure there are lots that just look. I don't let it get to me, I can see that 75 people looked, and I have to guess liked other wise there would be "comments"... 

I will be posting the more pictures just as soon as I finish the detail work...

Jeff


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## Omega (Jan 14, 2000)

Jeff,
That looks great. I have to agree with sethndaddy, I love looking at pics of other peoples customs. BTW, where did you get the VW pickup? 

Dave


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

Dave, THanks, the vw p'up is a custom resin done by H.D.Biker here on HT. He does some real nice customs... He also does decals, and one of the larger scale slotcar (can't remember the size).


Jeff


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

TD would be proud! :thumbsup: rr


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## boss9 (Apr 19, 2002)

Hey Jeff,
I know that feeling, too. I tried to get more lookers to be posters- even if it was a neg. comment, but was unsuccessful. I don’t think it’s because of a dislike for a particular piece, it’s more like how much interest or application one can use from it, and that generates response.
I’d just seen your W.I.P the other night, in your photo gallery, and to be up front about it, I’m not a big fan of DC conversions. That’s why I didn’t post a reply. 
That’s just my one opinion, and of course there’re many here that are big fans of that type of skill. They should be glad you post pics and it should make you feel good too. I think it looks great--but I thought it was a die cast. Is it resin? I would love one if it were resin!
Now using plastic parts from a DC is a different story. Sometimes that’s the only place to get certain pieces.
Keep em’ coming—Your work is still great! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: 

Cheers, Mate!


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

THanks guys for the compliments... And RR I would like to think Tom D. would like how it turns out. I want to cut a cross in the back window (like the original) and I am looking for a gearshift that would look real close to one in the original. 


Boss, No it is a DC but with the way it is cut/modified it probably wouldn't be too hard to make a resin casting of it... 

I was thinking of cutting the plastic chains out of the bed and replacing them with real chains...

Jeff


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

*Need Help...*

Guys, I have just about pulled all of my hair out on this. I am trying to glue a post on the flat bed part of this truck and am not having any luck. I have tried JB weld, Liquid weld, epoxy, super glue, and nothing will stick to the material that this bed is made out of... I have scraped it so it isn't shiny, cut little ridges in it hoping the glue would bond to it and nothing has worked.

I am not sure what the composite is but it is driving me nuts. I am hoping somebody may have a suggestion. I am about to get out the 'ol handymans special out and just say "DUCK it". 

PLEASE HELP!!!!

Here's some updated shots...
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=19982
Jeff


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

Hey, Jeff! 
This truck DOES look great! I love the old-Timey looking ones.

Ok, truck's bed plastic....Is it styrene? (the stuff of regular plastic models?) It might need to be "welded" with a cement for that type of plastic. When I am making the master out of something that needs a screw-post, I can get any type of plastic to stick with just about any epoxy-type glue EXCEPT when I am using styrene plastic tubing. I have to cut DEEP notches into the tubing so the epoxy will flow into those notches. 
Styrene glue does not make one part stick to another because you are puting something "sticky" on it. (or hardens to bond like epoxy)
Styrene glue melts the plastic forming a sticky edge that bonds the like parts together.
(it is a chemical reaction.)

Do you have any model kits you are working on? The sprues that the parts hang on make good posts too. You can use Something like testors (red tube) model cement if the bed IS styrene too.

If this does not work for you, Jeff, The bed is probably made of some sort of vynal-plastic. Your only hope there will be some sort of sealant or contact cement.

I hope this helps you, good luck!


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

Thanks for the input Joe, but the bed is not styrene.  The post is and I have "notched" it. The glues stick to the post, just not the material the bed is made out of. I really don't know what the type of plastic the bed is, but I am thinking the best I can do is attach the post to a small piece of styrene and then use something like rubber cement to attach the whole thing to the bed (if that will even stick).


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## JordanZ870 (Nov 25, 2004)

ok, bed might be nylon. They do that sometimes. Why not counter-sink from the top, run a screw through to attach the post to the bed? just use a short one?


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

:thumbsup: Joe, I was hoping not to have to do that since the top is visable. But that is always an option. Thanks for helping me get this problem solved. :thumbsup:

I will let you know when I get it all figured out...

Jeff


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## boss9 (Apr 19, 2002)

Hey there Jeff,

I've ran into that same problem--trying to get two different materials to adhere together. Try these three words--Zap-A-Gap. I used this stuff on many applications, and had great results.
If that doesn't work you have one other option I know of. Take a piece of parts tree (as Joe mentioned), heat up the end you will be attatching to the point of near melting. On the undeside of the bed use a little (very little) "Quick Marine" stripper and lightly coat the area you plan to stick the post. A chemical reacton in the stripper will soften the plastic. attatch the post at this time with little or no pressure so as not to warp the bed. The heated tree will bond to the softened plastic and cure that way. once it has attatched itself securely, wash off with warm water. Let it sit over night. This WILL make it permanant. 

It's a bit of extra work, but a custom like that is worth the extra effort.

Good luck with the conversion--I hope this was of some help  

Cheers...


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

Thanks Bossman, I know of "ZapAGap", I use to use it when building gliders (forgive me, it was just another phase I went through). Never even considered it for plastics. I will let you know how it turns out. I am hoping that this works as I really don't want to have to use fire (heat) to make this work... 

As for the custom, There are so many features that the model had that simply can not be incorporated in this. I sent the first pictures to Tom Daniels and got a reply. Seems he knows of lots of guys converting his 1/24th models into slots but he said that I was the first that he knows of trying to do it with a 1/64th scale. He also said "This is very Far Out!!!".

I am not much of an artist, so I have put off trying to draw a small enough iron cross for the back window. I am going to look for a decal or two that will be the right scale... I am working on the bed now, cutting tapers into the stakes, and knotching them for the chains. I am also going to be cutting out the two large panels in the back of the bed, tapering the stakes and adding chains that them as well. I will post more pics when I get a little further.

THanks again for the help...

Jeff


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## jack0fall (Sep 8, 2004)

:wave: Boss thanks for the tip... My hobby shop didn't have "Zap-a-Gap" but they did have some stuff called Flash, and he said that it was as good or better then zapagap. Well I tried it and it worked. I was beginning to think that I was going to have to attach it from the top or something...

Thanks again.

Jeff


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