# Painting Aurora Body Question.



## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

Hello,
I recently purchased a Cigar Box or Speedline Chrome Plated Ford GT body mounted to a Thunderjet chassis.
I stripped the chrome plate off the car and the body is a translucent motor oil color.
I painted the body silver, let dry and painted it Translucent red. I'm trying to mimick the metal flake paint job. 
I did this to a Jaguar body with the same paints, excecpt the color was Translucent blue. This body was originally painted Candy Blue, but decals where added and the blue paint was missing from the area the decals covered.
Anyway the red never fully dried. I don't think I allowed enough time between coats of red to let each coat dry or cure before the next. No instructions for this on the bottle. How long should I wait before each coat? The paint is water based. Randy.


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## demether (Aug 26, 2008)

It's curious that the water based color never dried...it's an issue wee see most often on (old) slovant based paints.

Perhaps the first sliver coat is alcohol based, so the red acrylic paint can't dry ?


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

The siver paint I used is RUST-OLEUM Metallic. It worked okay on the first car. 
Anyway I stripped off all of the paint and started over. I purchased a can of Testors One Coat Lacquer in Revving Red and painted the body this morning. I'm happy with the results. 
I'll get some pictures up when car is complete.
Thanks for the input from France.  Randy.


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## TomH (Jan 17, 2006)

The silver paint is probably enamel. Depending on how thick the paint was applied, if it was me I would have set it under a light bulb overnight before I put any kind of top coat over it. The solvents have to evaporate first. I would then scuff the primer with 1500 or higher grit, clean well and lay on the top coat. You can get away with putting a lacquer over an enamel if the enamel is good and dry and you don't lay a thick coat of lacquer over it...most of the time.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I learned from one of the best here, and it was a lesson well learned. I pretty much gave up on enamels and went lacquer. Duplicolor/plasticote car paints available in any auto parts store. You get a wide range of color choices, they dry super quick, and one can paints alot of bodies. If you pick up a can or 2 a week, within a month you'll have a great assortment to play with. I am especially fond of the "metalcast" chrome paints now that I've played with them. They are lacquer based, and are basically a candy paint. Lots of colors to play with, and the final finish is awesome. These can be shot over silver or gold basecoat, or over white. I even took a chance and shot it right over Dash pearl white and ended up with a candy pearl. Thank you Hilltop for one of the BEST suggestions I have gotten from here. The best thing is, I can transfer these paints to glass jars down the road and use them in my airbrush ( when I get over the fear of trying it :lol: ) My luck with enamel was similar to your experience. It never seemed to fully dry, and it was on the soft side. This may have been my own fault by spraying too thick a coat. Try it, you'll like it!!!


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

slotcarman12078 said:


> My luck with enamel was similar to your experience. It never seemed to fully dry, and it was on the soft side. This may have been my own fault by spraying too thick a coat. Try it, you'll like it!!!


SCM,
You nailed it with the enamel. Especially from cans, lighter the better and dry time in between coats. I've used enamel and lacquer and am pleased with using either. Once I realized I couldn't do the complete paint job in a hour, things started getting better. :freak: As far as Dupli Color, love that stuff. Goes on light, dries fast and looks great under a coat of clear. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## GoodwrenchIntim (Feb 22, 2005)

I agree enamel in a can is a b&tch, but airbrushed you cant beat it


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Bummer*

Ahhhhh so....Rustoleum...good fer garden furniture and shop equipment...slot cars?...not so much!

Rustoleum has a long cure rate, doesnt stretch out tight when dry. It WILL remain soft for quit awhile and fill up detail like a dump truck. Unless they have drastically altered their formulation since I last painted the front railing it'll be a mineral spirit based formulation along with a few other goodies to get it outta the can. This is why in many cases, a week later, it's still sticky, printing, and a school of fish eyes waitin' to happen should one make the mistake of blowing something over the top of it. (depending on application of course)

We all have our favorites. When using bomb cans, I look for labels that say "drys fast" and "extremely flammable". Water base tree hugger formulations need not apply.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Bill Hall said:


> We all have our favorites. When using bomb cans, I look for labels that say "drys fast" and "extremely flammable". Water base tree hugger formulations need not apply.


Exactly, give me the stuff with a skull and crossbones on it.

I do like Rustoleum, but just certain colors. And when I use enamel, it's Plastikote engine enamel, or Rustoleum industrial enamel.









Rustoleum Safety Red Industrial enamel. No polishing.

Rich


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

Here are the cars I painted. The blue XKE was painted with silver Rust-Oleum, left alone for a couple of days, then airbrushed with transparent blue waterbased paint. I'm very happy with this car.
The red Ford GT is painted with the Testors Lacquer Mystic Maroon. I tried the same thing as with the XKE. I didn't let the silver set for 2 days before I tried to add the transparent red.
SORRY FOR THE BAD PICTURES.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I think they look pretty good, Randy. Nice striping job on the GT!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

slotcarman12078 said:


> I think they look pretty good, Randy. Nice striping job on the GT!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:



Thanks, I used Parma masking tape for the stripe and painted them with Testors Flat White enamel. I'm thinking of putting numbers in meatballs on the Ford GT.
Her's a better picture of the XKE.


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## resinmonger (Mar 5, 2008)

A/FX Nut said:


> Thanks, I used Parma masking tape for the stripe and painted them with Testors Flat White enamel. I'm thinking of putting numbers in meatballs on the Ford GT.
> Her's a better picture of the XKE.


That is like a million dollar paint job! It looks really sweet!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Very nice Randy.

I really like how the blue turned out on your XKE!


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

That safety red Dodge looks a little orange to me, must be that Hemi trying to come out. I still likes it!!! 
Cool looking Jag and GT A/FX. I likes that maroon, has a candy apple flavor to it. Yea I'd add the numbers to that one, put her on the course...RM


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