# Slot Width



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Hi Guys,
I was finally getting around to converting a bunch of Tyco TCR chassis. I have glued the front wheels straight and inserted a pin in the bar that runs across the front of these chassis.
I started by trying what I think is a MicroScalextric pin (which looks like a small nail), but determined that is too thin; especially based on my testing with track joints. I then found some really small nails with a larger O.D. and cut one down to see how it would work.
The nail fits nicely in the slot. However, I discovered two things about Mattel track:

(1) Not all pieces have the same slot width. I noticed this the other day when I was trying to put a piece of weed whacker string into the slot. On some pieces it would fit, on others it was too tight. For example, in general 9" straights have a wider slot than 12" curves. For the first time I noticed that our 15" curve has a slightly wider slot - I do not believe this has any negative effects.

(2) Mattel narrows the slot slightly at the end of the slot, just before the flare.

When I installed the wider pin, the car did great for about 5 inches before it got to the end of the straight, where the pin bound up in the slot. I tried it on other pieces and the same thing occurred. The slot is wider in the middle than on the ends. It doesn't even seem to fit in the 12" curves.

Has anyone else noticed this, and would you ream out the slot so the width is constant?

I think I'll try to find a slightly smaller pin. Maybe sewing pins come in different sizes.

Thanks...Joe


----------



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

drill blanks


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I hate to say this, but I am not familiar with drill blanks. Although I can guess what they are, I'll ask anyway - what are they? I'm guessing they do not have a head on them? Although I will need to glue the pin in place no matter what I use, if the pin has a head it will prevent it from moving downward and will give more surface area to glue.
I just took a measurement of existing guide pins and the nail I tried to use. Looks like most guide pins have an O.D. in the 3/64" range. I was trying a nail with an O.D. of 1/16". Just too big.

Thanks...Joe


----------



## neorules (Oct 20, 2006)

One thing you could do is after you glue the guide pin in, take your dremel with a grinding or cutting disc or even diamond wheel if you have one and grind off each side of the guide pin til it works.


----------



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

No head on them,easiest way to describe them is they are the top-end of a drillbit,the smooth shank part where the jaws of your drill's chuck grabs
Joe,go here,i posted a bunch of common drll blank sizes here awhile ago,if you need them smaller then what i posted there let me know,and i'll post more sizes :thumbsup: 
Rick
http://www.ho-tips.org/index.php?showtopic=523


----------



## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

Joe --

Sometimes when I read your postings, I think "Joe is ready for a routed track".  

Plastic track is good for what it is, *if* you can live with it's shortcomings. I think you are getting to the point where what you want is more that what you can reasonably expect to achieve with plastic track unless you spend an outrageous amount of time reworking the plastic track.

I know you are the 'GrandCheapSkate', so maybe part of you isn't ready for a routed track, but I think part of you is.

-- Bill


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

wm_brant said:


> Joe --
> 
> Sometimes when I read your postings, I think "Joe is ready for a routed track".


Bill,
I think all of us are ready for a routed track. However, since I have thousands of pieces of Tyco/Mattel track, and do like to tinker with the layout, I need to stay plastic for now. Plus, I usually spend a lot more time with the cars in winter than in summer. So, right when I have the desire to go ahead and rout a track, the weather is horrible. When the weather gets good enough to rout outdoors, I find other activities take me away from slots.

And, if I was going to go routed, I would want to do what Slotmichl did and go all out with the stainless steel track. That would be the ultimate.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=180536

I guess even though I got my first set back in 1969, this is really the first time I have spent the effort necessary trying to work plastic track into good shape. So I have never before spent as much time studying the variations and lack of consistancy in plastic track. It's been a learning experiance and one which will come in handy if we decide to do more pieces.

In this case, I just need to find 3/64" steel rods. That will solve my immediate problem. Then, only about 146 more to go.



wm_brant said:


> I know you are the 'GrandCheapSkate'


 And, loving it.....LOL

Joe


----------

