# Toro with a Briggs wont stay running



## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

I tuned up a Toro personal pace mower (20066) for someone and they went home and mowed their huge lawn. It takes over an hour and they said it ran great.

Two weeks later they said it would not stay running. It would start for a few seconds and stall. Then it would not even do that.

When I looked at it, It appeared they ran with the air cleaner cover loose. There was dust on both side of the air filter and when I dropped the bowl there was debris in it. NOT varnish. dirt. 

I assumed at this point the carb needed to be cleaned and they will be on their way.

I proceeded to clean the carb. This is mower also has an auto choke. The kind with a bimetal spring near the muffler.

I took the cover off to inspect it and it seemed ok. I dont have much experience with these so I hope I am not missing something. At the same time I did notice a crack in the plastic intake tube. I just then assumed this was the real problem.

I repaired the crack with a high temp epoxy and then put it all together with the cleaned carb, new gaskets and seat.

Went to start it and the same issue. It starts a bit and then stalls. It seems like it is flooding. The plug is wet and you can smell gas. Is this an issue with the auto choke? The mechanism seems pretty simple. Other than a broken spring what fails on these?

I will admit, I may not have done a though enough job of cleaning the carb. I did not remove the welch plugs but I did hit it good with carb cleaner, compressed air and ran pins through the main jets. Other than the dirt in the bowl it appeared pretty normal. 

I may go back and soak the carb over night in carb cleaner and remove welch pugs etc. A new carb for this engine is like $50 and up. 

Any other ideas?


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

The only issue with the auto-choke is in SB-760, and deals with a hard-starting issue.
http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=6QnrsL-9ZhXwH8

The fact that the plug is getting wet can be from a number of reasons:
Bad ignition coil
Carburetor overflowing / float level wrong
Cylinder / piston damage from the dirt ingestion


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

Thanks. That is a very informative SB.

I think all looked good relative to the auto choke but i will double check it. The gap may be a bit over 1/8" but that should not effect a cold start. I think? it will just keep the choke on a hair longer.


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

Tonight I confirmed the spark is good. I removed the carb again and made sure the float does in fact float in a bowl of water.

I removed the one and only welch plug and did find a bit of gunk under it, but nothing terrible IMHO.

I would like to remove the choke and throttle plates but I am afraid of breaking the plastic shaft they are mounted in. These are not attached with a screw. They are pressed into a center slot in the plastic shafts. The plates have tabs locking them in place. They are hard to access and hard to depress and flatten. I am use to the screw type. If anyone has a trick on how to remove these plates with out damaging anything please share......

I am soaking the jets over night in carb cleaner. Will then blow it out with air.

I will reinspect the intake tube and make sure I did not miss something.

Any other ideas appreciated. Thanks.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Most issues as you described are due to build up or restriction in the main jet (bowl nut). Making sure everything is good and clean and the o-ring seal is in place between the carburetor and manifold, should take care of your issue. Make sure the flywheel key is not sheared and spark plug is properly gapped at .020", fuel is fresh and you should be good to go.

Best of Luck...:thumbsup:


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

Thanks 30yeartech!

I will check the fly wheel key for shearing. Everything else mentioned I think I have covered.
I was pretty sure the plug gap is .030. This is a 2008 model year B&S. I may be wrong but I will double check the Spark Gap spec.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

nbpt100 said:


> I was pretty sure the plug gap is .030. This is a 2008 model year B&S. I may be wrong but I will double check the Spark Gap spec.


.020" Plug gap is recommended for Ready Start engines.


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

I need to confirm my engine date code but this is what I found from Briggs on the Quantum engine spark gap. Apparantly July 1 of 2011 is the change over point.

020” Engines built after Code Date 110630x
.030” – built before Code Date 110701xx*


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

nbpt100 said:


> I need to confirm my engine date code but this is what I found from Briggs on the Quantum engine spark gap. Apparantly July 1 of 2011 is the change over point.
> 
> 020” Engines built after Code Date 110630x
> .030” – built before Code Date 110701xx*


I was told by a Briggs service rep, to gap all ready start engines at .020", so I do, and have not had any problems.


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## John Lolli (Nov 3, 2005)

I was told the same thing re 020 spark gap on ready start engines


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## jsouth (Jan 31, 2008)

You said the intake tube had a crack,I bet he hit something check the flywheel key.Does the rope snap out back when you pull the rope.Hope this helps.

Jerry


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

I got the machine running great. The epoxy I used the first time had cracked. I think I put it on too thick and I did not prep the material properly. I ground it down as best I could and used a different epoxy(JB Weld for Plastic) that is specific for plastic and good for 300 Deg F.

I did use a .030 gap. on the plug. It was 38 Degree the other day here and it started on the first pull.

I don't doubt what the Techs are telling you guys about gapping at .020.

It would be nice if B&S could update their product and technical documents to reflect this.

Thanks to everyone who shared.


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