# Solid Rivit T-Jet Chassis build



## Al Markin (May 17, 2003)

Would anybody know if there are any speed advantages in building the solid rivit chassis with no number on the bottom, or perhaps the #1,2,3, or 4? Also, some have 2 tiny holes drilled in front of motor cavity, and some chassis don't have the little holes? I'm going to build a drag car, does anybody care to share their knowledge, and perhaps a trick or two? Thanks!


----------



## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Howdy Al:
I'll chime in here. The first thing I do regardless of chassis is ohm out between the actual pickup brush surface and the arm that contacts the motor brushes. If you don't have a low reading say .01-.02 then you are having a resistance problem . And you need to correct that before continuing on with that chassis. Assuming you have a high resistance in that area first clean the hook of the pickup brush and under neath where it makes connection. You can also ohm between the plates to find if your problem lies there. Tightening the rivets with a punch and flat plate works well also a ultrasonic cleaner with jewlery cleaner will sometimes remove any hidden corrosion. You can also get by with just a jar of Walmart jewery cleaner and dunk your chassis and let it soak overnoght and then scrub with an old toothbrush and hot soapy water. The little hole you mention are for headlight bracket and have no relavance. I have been told that number 3 &4 chassis are not the best as there are issues with flatness. Depending on arm choice I would suggest JL /AW or Dash motor magnets a mean green arm is my choice. ohmed out of course should be 6 ohms or a lil lower. Tuffy gearing CNC gears are the cats meow but a lil pricey. the tri light gears are a good second choice and help quite a bit. I run a Silicone over sponge tire about .470 dia and 1 radio shack neo magnet on the rear fro traction a set of wheelie bars will help too use independant fronts and a willys bod and you are set to go race my friend. I hope this helps. You can also ventilate the chassis sides if you want a lil more RPM outta the motor.
Clyde-0-Mite


----------



## Al Markin (May 17, 2003)

clydeomite said:


> Howdy Al:
> I'll chime in here. The first thing I do regardless of chassis is ohm out between the actual pickup brush surface and the arm that contacts the motor brushes. If you don't have a low reading say .01-.02 then you are having a resistance problem . And you need to correct that before continuing on with that chassis. Assuming you have a high resistance in that area first clean the hook of the pickup brush and under neath where it makes connection. You can also ohm between the plates to find if your problem lies there. Tightening the rivets with a punch and flat plate works well also a ultrasonic cleaner with jewlery cleaner will sometimes remove any hidden corrosion. You can also get by with just a jar of Walmart jewery cleaner and dunk your chassis and let it soak overnoght and then scrub with an old toothbrush and hot soapy water. The little hole you mention are for headlight bracket and have no relavance. I have been told that number 3 &4 chassis are not the best as there are issues with flatness. Depending on arm choice I would suggest JL /AW or Dash motor magnets a mean green arm is my choice. ohmed out of course should be 6 ohms or a lil lower. Tuffy gearing CNC gears are the cats meow but a lil pricey. the tri light gears are a good second choice and help quite a bit. I run a Silicone over sponge tire about .470 dia and 1 radio shack neo magnet on the rear fro traction a set of wheelie bars will help too use independant fronts and a willys bod and you are set to go race my friend. I hope this helps. You can also ventilate the chassis sides if you want a lil more RPM outta the motor.
> Clyde-0-Mite


Thanks for some great info! I do have a 1/4 mile dragstrip in my basement, in the past, I've had Alan Galenko build me a couple of real fast T-Jets. But as I looked through all my years of collecting, I did decide to take my time, and build one of my own this winter!


----------



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

al you came to the right place. also the questions you have will be answered here.i know cuz it happenes to me.very cool that clyde came in with his info.for me i solder the contact patches so i,m assured that i get solid current. thats all i got. now its time to prepare turkey !!!


----------



## Brixmix (Dec 2, 2007)

The soild rivet chassis is considered better because with the solid rivet they tend to keep the hanger plates tighter. Since the soild rivet cars where the first to be molded it really doesn't matter which # it is as long as its flat. The little holes you where refering to are for the lighted chassis thats where the wires go through the chassis to the light in front.


----------



## Al Markin (May 17, 2003)

After going through my collection, I found many T-jet motors, I have a hanful that are aftermarket performance motors, but without trying them all seperately, I don't know which would be the one best for drag racing? Is there a way to ohm these motors to see which are better?


----------



## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Howdy:
Yes you can ohm out between the segments by placing the probes on seperat comm plates and getting a reading try to do all three as the one that is the closest together will be the best Electronically balanced arm. Static balance is another deal and involves spinning the arm untill all 3 poles are equal in weight. Kinda tricky ( for Me) . Look for the green wire on either a green Lams or Red lams next would be green wire on blue stacks any of those combinations should be good runners. If you check out Slotmonsters website they have a breakdown of all the Color combination and ohm readings for the Aurora arms
Clyde-0-Mite


----------

