# Controller question



## old blue (May 4, 2007)

What have I bought and is it any better than my regular Russkit controllers? I run stock tjets. I have always wanted a better controller but was not sure if this is just a standard controller with a couple extra nobs.

Any help would be appreciated,
Old Blue


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

old blue said:


> What have I bought and is it any better than my regular Russkit controllers? I run stock tjets. I have always wanted a better controller but was not sure if this is just a standard controller with a couple extra nobs.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated,
> Old Blue


looks like an MIB Aurora from way-back (??)

for T-Jets, @ 18 - 21 Volts. I use Parma Econo 90 OHM's...
work FAR better than the "Stock" track ones :thumbsup:

Bubba (the Senile) 123 :wave:


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

Thanks Bubba. This is 45 ohm and it works about like a light switch. The box did not have any ohms on it but it was dated 1974 so I took a chance that it could be better than stock. Oh well, it is very colorful.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

I like a "fast" controller, but for me 45 ohms does not work with T-Jets. There is a knob on that controller for some sort of ohm adjustment. At some point I may have seen a shot of the guts of the controller, but I can't recall how it is supposed to work. The best way to change the resistance of a controller is to change the resistor. Having additional resistors either in series or in parallel with the variable resistor does not usually work very well.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I got one of these in a used lot. It is a three wire controller (red for brakes I assume) with two resistors inside. On mine, the resistor for the trigger wiper is marked 50 Ohms. The indicator for the second resistor is hidden under the resistor clamps. For some reason, I cannot get an Ohm reading on my meter, possibly because the wiper resistor is worn out.

The second resistor is set with a dial which moves a wiper to a set position thereby increasing the overall resistance (although it would seem the "range" of the controller is still only 50 Ohms). So it would appear the lowest resistance possible is 50 ohms (with the second resistor set at "bypass") to whatever the highest resistance possible would be if both resistors were at their maximum value.

So my guess would be if the second resistor is set to zero, the controller is in the range of 0-50 Ohms - basically the second resistor is bypassed.

If the second resistor is set to the maximum, the resistance starts at infinity (no electrical flow) but once the trigger is pulled the resistance immediately jumps to whatever the resistance is set to on the second resistor plus 50.

As the trigger continues to be depressed, the Ohms obviously decrease but without my meter working, I can't tell exactly what happens.

Joe


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

picture?


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## Dushkwoneshe (Apr 27, 2012)

.
Been looking for the thread about the *Control Plus* to no avail...

Here's four photos I had in the thread... May not be much help, now...





































.
John
.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

i had, worked well for me, but screwed it up racing hot arm afx cars


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I was confused looking at the diagram.
how that could work with only one resistor had me stumped.
now ...
the picture reveals that there is another resistor and that makes more sense.

changing the resistor(s) to different values could make that a cool variable use controller.
Radio Shack has a variety, I've seen threads describing using them.
some have a ceramic surround which can apparently be easily removed.

I would be concerned about heat though.

witness the heat sinks that were made for Parma controllers in an attempt to dissipate heat


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

I took mine apart and the main resistor is 50 but the secondary is 80. I am wondering if they can be switched or reversed. That would be an improvement over my stock 60 controllers. With my luck I would have to use the trigger backwards. 

Fun.

Old Blue


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

Surprisingly, it worked. I now have an 80 ohm controller for $13. Correction, I went back to the hobby shop and bought a second one!!!!

I am a sucker for a happy ending!!!!!

Old Blue


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

Bubba 123 said:


> looks like an MIB Aurora from way-back (??)
> 
> for T-Jets, @ 18 - 21 Volts. I use Parma Econo 90 OHM's...
> work FAR better than the "Stock" track ones :thumbsup:
> ...


Question;
for 1/32 & 1/43 cars that use; 6 - 9(??) - 12 Volts....
"What" w/ be the best Ohm rating, to use by MFG-"Parma Econo's" ?? 

Bubba 123 :wave:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

old blue.
congrats on a working solution
thank you for sharing your finding


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

The second resistor would probably be wired in parallel to the one that connects with the trigger. Here is a similar controller that I built. There is a 500 ohm rheostat wired in parallel with the 45 ohm main resistor with a switch to take it out of the circuit entirely. With this arrangement you can only make the ohms less than those of the main resistor.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

As I mentioned earlier, I have a used Controller Plus and just purchased quite a few more new in the box. I am trying to determine the resistance range but I'm having trouble getting a reading.

Please correct me if I am wrong here...

In order to test the Ohm range of a controller, I hook my Ohm meter up to the 2 wires (black and white) of the controller. I then slowly depress the trigger. The first reading should be the maximum Ohm value of the controller and should decrease from there as I further depress the trigger. However, I am getting no reading from any Aurora controller as I press the trigger.

I can put the meter probes directly onto the resistor and get a reading but it's difficult to work through the little slits on the controller. For the Controller Plus I cannot get a steady reading this way.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks...Joe


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Possibly you are getting funky readings because the wiper button is not making good contact with the resistor or the windings have become corroded or dirty. I used to recommend spraying some contact cleaner on the resistor and working the trigger a dozen time as a first shot at clearing up that problem. I had four controller handles crack and fall apart, so I no longer use that procedure, even if the contact cleaner is supposed to be plastic safe. In your case the best thing to do is to remove the plastic handle. Remove the resistor and put it face down on some 800 grit sandpaper, only a light sanding will be needed. Re-install the resistor and bend the wiper arm towards the resistor a little to be sure that the wiper button makes good contact. Next put some 400 grit sand paper between the resistor and the wiper with the grit facing the wiper and pull the trigger a dozen times. By doing that the wiper button will ride flat on the resistor. Replace the handles and try your measurments again.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Hi Rich,
I think you misunderstood the problem.

Problem #1 is I cannot get a reading from any controller when I hook the meter up to the black and white wires (something which I thought I had done in the past). If I got silly readings it could be from the wiper/resistor contact, but to get no reading on the meter when the controllers work fine when hooked to the track is baffling.

Problem #2 is trying to get a reading from the Controller Plus which has two resistors. Getting the reading off the "wiper resistor" can be done through the little air vents. But I want to try to get a reading of the whole circuit when the variable resistor is engaged. This will require me to have the meter hooked to the controller wires and depress the trigger.

Thanks...Joe


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

I just saw that AFX or TOMY has a new 120 ohm controller that comes with the newer sets.


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

old blue said:


> I just saw that AFX or TOMY has a new 120 ohm controller that comes with the newer sets.



For all Mega G+ chassis.


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

The set comes with Mega G+ cars, but Tjets run better with higher ohm controllers too. In the past a controller at 120 ohms would be 100+ dollars.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

I assumed that you checked your meter and it was working OK. If you read nothing when you connect to the controller black and white wires and pull the trigger the controller would not be working at all. It is not unusual for a meter to have problems with resistance measurments, even more expensive ones. The connections between the test leads and the meter must be perfect and the selector switch often causes problems as well. If you short the test leads the meter should read 0 ohms or very close to that. If you have a digital meter check the battery.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Hi Rich,
The meter seems to work fine (in fact, I tried two of them - Harbor Freight) but neither gives me an Ohm reading. I am going to try an analog meter next. Seems there is no information anywhere as relates to the Ohm range of the Controller Plus.

The only bit of info I have seen is from an old Aurora AFX book (Road Racing Handbook Vol. 2) which states the controller is in the range of 3 through 30. I cannot believe that is true because there was no Aurora cars in any era (these are from 1974) which required a controller in that range.

Thanks...Joe


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