# PL 1/350 Refit Enterprise Lighting Kit progress



## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Greetings fellow modelers,

For those of you without any past model kit lighting experience, this kit will enable you to illuminate your favorite refit model in the easiest possible way. 

...As well as allowing you to, in a way, kill your fear of electronics while doing so.  

With this kit, all you will have to do is basically, place the prepared electronics in their proper locations, connect the color coded wires together, and *BAM* you have a fully illuminated 3 foot filming quality model complete with light FX. 

The kit will feature nearly everything you need to illuminate your Polar Lights refit model.

Kit includes:

-all the required LEDs soldered with their proper resistors and color coded lead wires and insulated. All you will have to do is simply place them on the kit as per the instructions.

-a 4060 chip will be included and made ready for you to produce your blinking navigation and formation lights.

-4 pin male and female power connector made ready for quick installation

-28 gauge lead wire with 7 color codes to allow easy connection of all completed circuits

-2 toggle switches made ready for display base installation

-1 coaxial DC power jack for the base

-detailed instruction manual which will be 1/2 scale to the model kit or 1/700 scale.

What will not be included:

-9 Volt 800ma-1000ma AC/DC adapter

-vinyl electrical tape

-CA glue aka super glue (Note: epoxy can also be used.)

It is important to note that this is a description of the multi-circuit comprehensive kit which will be priced at nearly $300.00


Now to what has been done thus far.


I have nearly completed the kit's drafting stage for the instruction manual.

pics

upper saucer lighting preparation
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4499gg.jpg

LED drilling
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4500gg.jpg

lower saucer LED drilling
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4501gg.jpg

preparing the deflector housing for lighting
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4502gg.jpg

preparing the torp. launcher for lights
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4503gg.jpg

dorsal engineering hull drilling and light preparations
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4504gg.jpg

Ventral engineering hull drilling and light preparations
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4505gg.jpg

pylon channeling for wire passage
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4506gg.jpg

warp engine drilling and lighting preparations
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4507gg.jpg

upper saucer LED layout
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4508gg.jpg

lower saucer LED layout
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4509gg.jpg

engine LED layout
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4510gg.jpg


I know this looks a bit intimidating right now but remember that this is basically a rough draft of the kit's instruction manual. The final version will be featured with color photos and will be much easier to read and understand. These are more for me at this point just so I can get everything straight and get a proper layout of the electronics done. 

Some more pics of things that will be included in the kit

Male and female power connector(already prepped, soldered and good to go)
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4512gg.jpg

28 guage color coded wire
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4513gg.jpg

3mm color LEDs, toggle switches, and coaxial power jack(all will be prepped as well)
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4514gg.jpg

prepped LEDs
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_4515gg.jpg

prepared 4060 chip
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20light%20kit/000_3491gg.jpg

Here are some examples of how the light kit will look once completed.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4367gg.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4348gg.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4242gg.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4200gg23.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4191gg28.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4250gg20.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4246gg18.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4205gg34.jpg

Here are a couple video demos
http://media.putfile.com/enterprise-flyby

http://media.putfile.com/enterprise4

more to come...


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Good news... this is exactly what I've been waiting for. Please keep us posted.


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## REL (Sep 30, 2005)

Man I have no idea what any of that means. Maybe if it's translated into english?  

Very elaborate.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Godspeed, Trekmodeler!


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## capt Locknar (Dec 29, 2002)

are you saying 300.00 for a lighting kit or am I reading that wrong.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

capt Locknar said:


> are you saying 300.00 for a lighting kit or am I reading that wrong.


I believe that is what he is saying and when you think about it, it is reasonable. If you think how much you will spend trying to get all this together and construct it yourself, it will be worth it. I will be very interested in a lighting kit, I just hope I can afford it when it is released. 

Trekmodeler ... will this kit light the model the way yours was lit in your past photos? Also, will your plans take into account those of us who purchased the metal superstructure armature?


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Wow, this kit sounds pretty neat...but before I put $300 into one, I'd sure like to see what it looks like in a built up model. I'm still up in the air as to wether I'll go with a lighting kit of some kind or just wing it like I did with my NX-01...does anyone have a preferred source of LED's and other electrical components? I don't really relish the thought of going through Radio Shack again.


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## REL (Sep 30, 2005)

Here's what his light kit looks like built up. Pretty sweet.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=142125


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## CAPTNEURO (Apr 7, 2004)

I've seen a video of his lighting kit on the Big E that he made a couple days ago. She was against a black background as the camera moved past her...and I swear I thought it was a scene from a ST movie where E was cruising through space. And that was a prototype kit from what I understand.

I've emailed him and told him he should post the video here so everyone can see how good it is.


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Oh wow, the kit is going to include all of that? Might just be worth it . If I do my own lighting, I would pretty much be forced to go with a simplified lighting scheme due to time constraints (fewer blinkies, etc), but this kit seems like it would be a great time saver.


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## JadesDarkHeart (Dec 8, 2003)

Sweet mother you must have the patience of Job in order to offer this as a kit. Having wired one and starting a second, I just could not do that to myself LOL :wave:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I'll have to start saving now! :lol:
I can't solder to save my life. Don't even have the tools. Will I still be able to put this thing together?


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## John Duncan (Jan 27, 2001)

Wow...I might have to get that. $300 might seem extreme at first but to have all that done up for you....nearly painless lighting? It'd be the ultimate replica.

Now if someone would just come up with a set of decals that cover the entire hull with the proper colors... 

Good thing I'm practicing assembly and painting on an unlit kit first.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks for the input and the comments everyone! Now, I would like to address some Frequently Asked Questions.

1. Why the seemingly large price? 

I do realize that most modelers and hobbyists are on tight budgets (myself included), but it takes alot of work carfully calculating voltage and soldering over 70 LEDs to their proper rersistors, preparing other electronics by soldering wire to them, scratchbuilding a tiny circuitboard for blinking lights, making sure that everything works perfectly by testing each and every component of the product numerous times before shipping out. 

2. Will this light kit conflict with Hans's Armature support? The answer is I am not quite sure. The reason is, I am not familiar with the armature's technical specs. I would need exact numbers and demensions of the armature to be able to determine if the kit conflicts with any part of it, especially at the pylon area. For now I can tell you that you will be provided with very small but durable 28 gauge wire which should not conflict with anything.

3. Is the interior(window) lights going to be white or blue? 
They will be white. In some pictures of the finished display model you might notice that the window lights appear to be blueish in color. The reason for that is that until the pure white LEDs are released, any white LEDs currently in the market have a slight blueish tint that only digicams can really detect in my experiance. 

4. Will this kit be mass produced? 
No, it will instead be made to order. 

5. Why is the 9V DC adapter not included? It is not included simply because the one I use is not compatible with most other wall sockets other than the US. 

6. Will the custom display base and support rod come with the kit? 
No, but there will be instructions on how to construct one yourself in the manual. However, if you would like a base/stand but do not want to build it yourself, you can request one and I will build you one for a price. 

7. Will this light kit make your finished model appear as the photos above? Yes, it will be appear as on the above photo examples. 

8. Are customizations for the light available? Yes, I can add or subtract LEDs or provide you with different colors for certain areas if you like, but customization does not include adding another circuit for instance.

9. Will this light kit allow you to illuminate all of the model's interiors like the shuttlebay for instance? Yes this kit will allow the builder to light up all of the interiors provided with the refit model kit.

10. Do I have to have ANY prior electronics experiance to work this kit? 
No. No prior experiance is required. Everything will be made easy enough for you to simply plop the provided prepared electronics into the kit as per the instruction manual. 

Feel free to ask any other questions.


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## John Duncan (Jan 27, 2001)

When you go from powered up mode (blue deflector) to powered down (amber deflector) is there a smooth transition or is it just on/off? It'd be neat if it was a smooth transition but I'm sure that would add complexity to the circuit design.

-John

www.apollosaturn.com


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Well I for one am saving up for one!


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

John Duncan said:


> When you go from powered up mode (blue deflector) to powered down (amber deflector) is there a smooth transition or is it just on/off? It'd be neat if it was a smooth transition but I'm sure that would add complexity to the circuit design.
> 
> The circuit was designed to have a smooth transition from blue to amber. There will be 2 toggle switches. One will both activate and turn off all of the model's lights, (this is the main switch). The other(the secondary switch) will make the model's lights smoothly transition from the blue deflector, warp nacelles on, and red impulse lights to the amber deflector, warp nacelles off, and amber impulse lights and vise versa.
> 
> ...


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Trek, I sent you a PM


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## John Duncan (Jan 27, 2001)

Wow, that's great. A smooth transition between modes. :thumbsup: 

I guess the only thing left to do is find out how to get on the waiting list.

-John

www.apollosaturn.com


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*you got mail*

Trek,
Please check your inbox
Lou


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Wow I think this is a great idea... definitely the best looking lighting I have seen.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks everyone! 

A couple more video demos of the light FX.

http://media.putfile.com/impulse-FX

http://media.putfile.com/shuttle-hostingpit-lights


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

I'm in awe, Trekmodeler. I do have one question, though; How are you achieving the spotlight effect? Is it done externally, internally (shining through the plastic), or both? How effective is the spotlighting effect with this kit in person? I only ask because the (digital)camera can play tricks sometimes. 

I'm definitely interested in one of these kits, but I might ask you to dial it back a little bit (I'm thinking of not detailing the shuttlebay on mine)!


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Ruckdog said:


> I'm in awe, Trekmodeler. I do have one question, though; How are you achieving the spotlight effect? Is it done externally, internally (shining through the plastic), or both? How effective is the spotlighting effect with this kit in person? I only ask because the (digital)camera can play tricks sometimes.
> 
> I'm definitely interested in one of these kits, but I might ask you to dial it back a little bit (I'm thinking of not detailing the shuttlebay on mine)!


Good question Ruckdog. Somone had already inquired about this issue on the SSM boards. My answer was this..

I will work to have all of the self illumination flood lights included but I am not sure how many of you will agree to adding about an 1/8 of an inch to the height of the bridge in order for the proper effect to work. This is the only section that requires some modification for the flood light to work properly.

If there are folks that do not wish to modify the model in this way, I will just include the necessary LEDs with their components as well as instructions on how to create a decent effect. From there you will make the choice of adding this effect to that section of the model or not.

Fortunately and ironically, the easiest section to achieve a decent spotlight is at the ventral saucer section directed from the planetary sensor dome light emitters. But NOT from all 4 light emitters only from the forward one directed at the registration numbers because including spotlight LEDs from all 4 sides will make the model too bright in my opinion. 

Here is a good example of the studio model's ventral saucer spotlight in action.Notice that the spotlight is made to appear as if it were coming directly from the forward light emitter only and not all 4.(Granted the effect was not achieved by the method I just stated but both methods look nearly identical). 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/tmp024.jpg

Oh! And if you would like to subtract LEDs from the circuit, the final price will be reduced according to what section you do not wish lit. As simple as that.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Well, I'm sold! I probably have $300-worth of coins in the water-cooler bottle I tosds them into every day. 

Just let me know when and where to send the checky.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

John P, Even though your fantastic models and expert craftsmanship do not need a hint of illumination to make them look stunning I really appreciate your interest in this kit man. 

The prototype kit is nearly done(in maybe a few weeks), but I will need a little more than a month of field testing before I can release it. I already found someone without any electronic background to test it for me. If he finds it satisfactory and easy to use, it will be released shortly thereafter.

I'll announce the kit's availability on my site and you all can order it simply by emailing my sitemail with your order and/or customizations if any.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

It's just that I can't imagine building an Enterprise kit this big without lights. It just wouldn't be right!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

The Trekmodeler said:


> I will work to have all of the self illumination flood lights included but I am not sure how many of you will agree to adding about an 1/8 of an inch to the height of the bridge in order for the proper effect to work. This is the only section that requires some modification for the flood light to work properly.


Trekmodeler .... was yours done with the height of 1/8" added? If so I don't see it being a big noticable difference and I am okay with it.

And forgive my ignorance, but what is your web site address so I can watch for the release of this item?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> Trekmodeler .... was yours done with the height of 1/8" added? If so I don't see it being a big noticable difference and I am okay with it.
> 
> And forgive my ignorance, but what is your web site address so I can watch for the release of this item?


Yes Opus, but it is actually a little less than an 1/8 of an inch, just to be more exact. If done right it will be hardly noticable if noticable at all. 

No problem Opus, my website is www.trekmodeler.com.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

John P said:


> It's just that I can't imagine building an Enterprise kit this big without lights. It just wouldn't be right!


And what better reason than that John?!! That's great!! :thumbsup:  :dude:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Yes Opus, but it is actually a little less than an 1/8 of an inch, just to be more exact. If done right it will be hardly noticable if noticable at all.
> 
> No problem Opus, my website is www.trekmodeler.com.


Great! Then I would go for heightening the bridge area only because that front spotlight sure would look cool and help accent the model's features.

Thanks Trekmodeler. I look forward to your light kit with great anticipation.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

You're very Welcome Opus!


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

If you don't mind my asking, how exactly do you raise the bridge area up? Do you build the area under it up with styrene stock? I looked at the "in progress" gallery on your site, and that seems to be the approach, but there aren't any extreme close-ups of the bridge area so I couldn't tell for sure.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Ruckdog said:


> If you don't mind my asking, how exactly do you raise the bridge area up? Do you build the area under it up with styrene stock? I looked at the "in progress" gallery on your site, and that seems to be the approach, but there aren't any extreme close-ups of the bridge area so I couldn't tell for sure.


Yes Ruckdog, that's the general idea. On my site there was a bit more to it than that though, but I assure you that I will include clear cut instructions on how to create this effect in the light kit's manual. They will be accompanied by extreme close-ups in color.


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## EvilWays (Jul 21, 2004)

Will this be available as kit sans LEDs? Most of the LEDs I plan to use that are white (for windows mostly) will be closer to amber (like a flashlight bulb in color) and not a "pure" white to add a bit of realism to lit windows. Spotlights would be closer to "pure" white.


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## Ponyboy33 (Apr 6, 2006)

Would there be a possibility of getting a schematic of your lighting system?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

This kit will be made up of white, red, green, and amber LEDs. The kit will not include a schematic as that is the essence of the system.


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## caesar4u (Apr 13, 2005)

Hi Trekmodeler,

I sent an email to your website to order a refit light deluxe kit. I have a question, can lensed model train bulbs be added for the spotlights as on the Cult TVman website model done by Kyu-Woong Lee ? I would like this to have a nice strong spotlight effect.

http://www.culttvman.com/kyu-woong_lee_s_movie_enterpri.html

Thank you Trekmodeler.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Caesar, I just read your email Thank you for contacting me. The light kit will be annaounced upon availability. I am working to make it available for customers as soon as possible. The light kit will not incorperate any other light sources such as Cold Cathodes, incandecsants, Halogen bulbs, etc. The only light sources that will be included are only LEDs. The spotlight effect works well with LEDs as seen in these photos. NOTE: a couple of the photos are of the model in its construction stages. 

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4543tt.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4541tt.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4560spotlightphulltt.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%201701-A/000_4257saucerspot2.jpg


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## caesar4u (Apr 13, 2005)

Thank you Trek Modeler ! I have a quick question, can extra leds be used to make the floodlights a little stronger on the hull ? Also can one have the blue deflector on with the orange impulse color on while naceles are powered down ? Thanks Trekmodeler, I will definetly be getting this kit.

Ceasar


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## caesar4u (Apr 13, 2005)

any update Trek ?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Caesar, My apologies for the late reply.

I am currently backed up to the point where I am thinking of getting hired help. LOL, that's how busy I have been in the last few months. BTW, just kidding about the hired help thing.

To answer your first question, I believe that the deflector color change option you asked for is doable but adding more LEDs to the spotlight will probably be too bright. 
We'll see.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Nice job on the lighting and the entire build!!!


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## caesar4u (Apr 13, 2005)

Hi Trek Modeler,

It's good you're back.  I was looking for one of your posts on another forum, is it the 5mm 27,000 mcd what you were using for the spotlights and 13,000 mcd for interior? 

You see, what I was trying to accomplish was for the dorsal saucer main spotlight to reach the whole area for the NCC-1701 or NCC-1701-A. I was thinking along the lines of maybe 2 lights to get the effect, love your ventral saucer effects; I have seen none better and more authentic Trek. How about a 50,000 mcd 5mm spotlight. any thoughts.

Trek, there is something I am after particularly and that is to paint an authentic Search for Spock Enterprise, but as a hypothetical 2 week refit without the battle damage. Thomas informed us that there were sections repainted for Star Trek III after Wrath of Khan. Can you point me in the right dirrection to achieve this look, also interested in the correct scheme for a ST IV Enterprise with the Blue and Engineering green.

Thanks Trekmodeler.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Caesar, 
Thanks for the compliments!

All of the 3mm white LEDs I used are in the 27000 range and all of the 5mm whites are in the 12000 range. I can always use higher mcd on both. I suppose it is possible to install 2 LEDs under the bridge but it would show up very bright and will be difficult to photograph when the time comes. That is why I included my saucer spots on another circuit just so I can photograph it. Don't get me wrong, the effect works great when seen in person but a whole bunch of different things occur when photographing finished models in my experiance. I will have to make sure that both will be able to fit under the bridge. But before I do that I will experiment with higher mcd LEDs for a better effect. 

Regarding the look of the Star Trek III version, I am not quite sure about that version of the refit. I am aware of the fact that the refit underwent a major repaint only once to get her from the original Star Trek TMP 1701 look to the Star Trek VI 1701-A look (aka the "retirement version"). But I also read that there were some minor repaints for the various different movies. I have only tackled an experimental model of the TMP refit once(mostly just to test out a new lighting technique) and have finished a few 1701-A's. I would certainly like to help you with your build but I'm afraid I am not well versed in any version other than the TMP and the TUC versions. 

As far as I can tell there was always something different about the Enterprise in all of the movies. But to me she looked most differrent in Star Trek 3, almost as if she had a blue/gray hue to her. Now it could very well have been the lighting that it was shot in that produced that effect but I could never really tell. It is a mystery to me as well. I would have refered you to Thomas for the best tips as I would imagine that he knows a lot more than I do about any version of the refit. My personal guess is that the strongback and deflector housing from the TMP version were not changed for Trek 3 but just simply dulled down and given a grayish hue. So if I were you I would use Krako's great TMP decals as reference for both color and pattern to create a good basis then lightly mist some light gray on the finished areas. It should give you a pretty close enough "on screen" look in my opinion. I wish I could help out more. Good luck!


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## duckier (May 25, 2006)

*Timing of the fade change from power up to down.*

:wave: :wave: 

Is it possible to increase the time between the power up to the power down look. I have seen the video and like that you can control both looks but would like and wonder if there could be a more gradual change.

Thanks...


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## caesar4u (Apr 13, 2005)

Hi TrekModeler,

Thank you for your insight and recomendations. Your thoughts concerning the differance in the strongback jive with what Omnimodel informed me on Thomas Models forum. The strongback for Search for Spock might very well have changed from engine green to shades of blue which apear grey on screen as Omnimodel and you have pointed out. 

I wonder if we can't spark Krako's interest in doing strongbacks for the differant versions, I think a Voyage Home scheme would be cool for fans of the A.

To be truthfull, the way the A looked in the Voyage Home was absolutely gorgeous, I'm defintely going to keep researching and together we could all pull this off.

Thanks Trek !

Caesar


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## Flux Chiller (May 2, 2005)

caesar4u said:


> Hi TrekModeler,
> The strongback for Search for Spock might very well have changed from engine green to shades of blue which appear grey on screen as Omnimodel and you have pointed out.
> 
> To be truthfull, the way the A looked in the Voyage Home was absolutely gorgeous, I'm defintely going to keep researching and together we could all pull this off.
> ...


Well there's the secret sir- paint her like she looked on the screen. if you think its grey, paint it grey, simple! You can easily modify Krako's decals with photoshop or similar- they are almost grey anyway, just needs playing with the saturation.

Don't you find she looks a bit clinical in ST4? A shame we lost the realistic battlescarred look that we had in ST3 in my opinion.


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

Although i'm trying to replicate a TMP look, i don't want the model looking too pristine and toylike.....there will be subtle weathering on mine....nothing as crass as big streaks etc....she is the Enterprise after all....not the Falcon!

Rich


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

duckier said:


> :wave: :wave:
> 
> Is it possible to increase the time between the power up to the power down look. I have seen the video and like that you can control both looks but would like and wonder if there could be a more gradual change.
> 
> Thanks...


I would like to see this gradual change as well, and even have the option of having impulse and warp engines light up on a separate switch as well. If it isn't possible, I would still get the kit since it is extremely impresive.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

_"Although i'm trying to replicate a TMP look, i don't want the model looking too pristine and toylike.....there will be subtle weathering on mine....nothing as crass as big streaks etc....she is the Enterprise after all....not the Falcon!"_


Guys, Realistically, what "weathering" are you going to have on a non-fossil-fueled ship that flies in a vacuum or warp shell with protective shields?? I can see doing a "battle-hardened" look....


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Well, she may not be running on fossil fuels, but the impulse engines and thrusters supposedly consume chemical fuel of some kind, and the warp engines have to exhaust their spent plasma. I could see how over time these emissions could leave some sort of stain, not to mention the affects of heat from these sources on the apparently bare metal of the hull.

BTW, any update on the lighting kit Trekmodeler?


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

colhero said:


> _"Although i'm trying to replicate a TMP look, i don't want the model looking too pristine and toylike.....there will be subtle weathering on mine....nothing as crass as big streaks etc....she is the Enterprise after all....not the Falcon!"_
> 
> 
> Guys, Realistically, what "weathering" are you going to have on a non-fossil-fueled ship that flies in a vacuum or warp shell with protective shields?? I can see doing a "battle-hardened" look....


Very subtle weathering....although i've seen some stunnig builds, yours included Colhero, i've seen too many that just look sort of toy-ish. Too clean...too shiny....it's the balance of subtlety/realism that i'm kind of going after...whether i get it or not remains to be seen!


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Thanx for the compliment Lizzybus! I totally agree that she needs to not look toyish or shiny. And I agree that the pristine look can look unrealistic, thats why I have left some not-so-obvious azteccing faults as well as some handling ruboff. With the right painting, azteching and photography a good balance can be achieved. And although I think Small's and Thomas' old A builds were beautifully done and looked very realistic and well photographed, I thought the weathering was overdone. I cant imagine primitive chemical processes being used for Impulse or thrusters on a warp-capable craft. I can see clean atomic power used, like ION power. Perhaps some slight discolration due to the plasma exhaust... Ketzer's DeBoer build looks great, though I feel some of the colors are a little too bold. Of course there is also the fact that in order for we mere humas to relate to something, it has to have some qualities that we are familiar with, hence our need for more "realism" from a ship from the future that probably would in reality look very pristine, except for damage suffered from shield failure or battle damage. Just my interpretation! :thumbsup:


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

I know what you're saying Colhero...maybe mine just looks a wee bit mucky due to some hic-ups in the painting process! My biggest gripe was that the aztec templates kept pulling up sections of base coat...grrrrr......

I thought the impulse engines were powered by the same core as the warp engines? Why else would there be an impulse deflection crystal other than for redirecting the powerflow from the intermix chamber....i'd say that chemical propulsion would be an emergency drive system in the event of the warp core being offline....

or am i just talking bollocks?

I've just noticed that we've gone way off topic now......oops!

Rich


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Well, according to Mr. Scott's Guide to the Enterprise, there are rows of fusion reactors between the deflection crystal and the actual engine exhaust, presumably to act as backup in case the primary hull was seperated from the secondary, or main power was lost in some other way. In either case, there is going to be hot plasma passing out of those engine exhausts that one could very well imagine having a detrimental effect on the areas of the hull surronding them. 

As far as the RCS thrustres are concerned, I believe that the only infromation on those comes from the Next Generation Technical Manual, where they were described as chemicaly fueled. Presumably, they operate on more or less the same principle as those that were installed on the refit 80 years before.


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## mechinyun (Feb 23, 2004)

Sorry if this has been addressed, didnt seee it when I skimmed through all the pages.

When I see your videos, it seems the hull spot lights cut off when its switched into warp mode? Why is this? I know I would want the hull spots to stay on when its warp mode as well as powered down.

Also, if one were to want purple LED's in the warp naceles for a tmp/pre-pro look could this be done?

-Cliff


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Any news on when Trekmodeler will have this released?


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Yeh, TrekModeler, get with the program! We're all waiting to buy this kit from you.. Also, aren't you done with your fourth build yet? I wanna know all the experience you've had, so I can get my third one done right the first time. :thumbsup:


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Yeah, I PM'ed him a couple of days ago, but no response yet. He must be really busy! I hope he can get this kit out soon; if not, then unfortunately I'll have to come up with my own ligting solution.


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## duckier (May 25, 2006)

Does anyone know the status on Trek Modeler. Would be great to hear what his latest advances are. Appreciate anyones feedback...


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Well, I sent him a PM some time ago and have yet to hear back. He is probably just very busy with his model making buisiness, and I'm guessing that his lighting kit project has been shelved for the time being.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Yeah I have sent a couple of PM's at his web site and haven't heard anything. I hope he can complete this project.


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## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Wow, I want one of those lighting kits for my Eneterprise. I sent an IM and it stated that his IM mailbox was full and it would not take mine until some were deleted from his box.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Please guys, Accept my apology as life and work have been extra hectic these past few months. I had no intention of leaving you guys in the lurch but I wanted my next post here to be "The Light Kit is Out". Also for some reason, my sitemail was non accessible to me for a while. I could not reply to any email on there. 

The light kit will come out, I just need some more time. I'm getting done with some models and previous orders Your patience will be most appreciated. Again, I hope you will accept my apology. I'm really sorry about this.


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

TrekModeler...take all the time you need. It just gives me time to save up some money so that I can afford your kit when it is finally ready.


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

I wonder if here's gonna beef up the power. I'm up to 1 ma just on the Saucer.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I'll do my best, I know a lot of modelers are depending on the kit and I intend to finish it as soon as possible.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

MartinHatfield said:


> TrekModeler...take all the time you need. It just gives me time to save up some money so that I can afford your kit when it is finally ready.


Same here! I have time to save up for it and am looking forward to it. I guess we were all just getting concenred that something happened to you  

Thanks for the update Trekmodeler!


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## duckier (May 25, 2006)

Over all i'm just glad you are back. I'm sure it wont be to long now. Thanks for comming back...


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks so much guys I'm really touched. I appreciate all your support and kindness. This is my first time trying to produce an aftermarket kit for a model and I just want it to be perfect. I promise to do everything I can to make it worth every penny.


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## duckier (May 25, 2006)

Two months...kinda curious what's new since it's been quiet. If anyone knows anything drop a line or two. Thanks...


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Just presented a minor update over at SSM. 
http://starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=43207


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## JT1 (Nov 11, 2006)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Just presented a minor update over at SSM.
> http://starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=43207


When I clicked on the above link, I went to "The topic or post you requested does not exist".

Any updates for here?

Thanks in advance,

JT


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

Yeah, unfortunately, Starship Modeler is set up to auto-delete threads that are inactive for a certain amount of time. I think it's like one or two weeks. Something along those lines, regardless.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Lots of progress on the light kit since the first posting on this thread...

I have built a number of prototypes and my latest version is definitely what I have been aiming for. My first prototype for the kit was made up of prepared LEDs, circuit boards, plugs and sockets which would have required more time to install. A lot of time went by since then and lots of improvement. 

My initial goal was to offer a lighting kit designed specifically for the PL refit that would allow the builder to simply 'plop' the electronics into the different sections of the model without the need of soldering a single wire or preparing a single LED. After many trials and tribulations, I believe that my objective has been achieved with my latest prototype. Now, the builder will be able to literally plop the prepared electronics as a whole in all of the designated sections of the model in 15 minutes or less. Here are some visual examples of what I mean...

This is a pic of the entire light kit placed into each section of the refit model kit. It took about 5 minutes to set everything up. 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5817jj.jpg

Here we have the part of the light kit that was designed to fit into the upper saucer section. 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5818jj.jpg

It literally took me a few seconds to install.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5829jj.jpg

Here is the completed secondary hull(with the power relay up front). 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5820jj.jpg

Laying down the secondary hull light sources on the roof of the shuttlebay/cargobay interior piece.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5823jj.jpg

Secondary hull ceiling with leads to the warp engine pylons. 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5825jj.jpg

The deflector housing RCS thruster electronics in place. 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5826jj.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5827jj.jpg


Warp engine light sources in place. 
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5824jj.jpg

I am now finalizing the instruction manual and looking for ideal packaging for shipment of the light kit.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Trek, you did a great job there my friend. Congratulations!

Is the kit still set to come in at 300 dollars?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

My Hero!!!


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Electronics are not my strong suit, but this gives me hope.

Thanks for keeping us posted.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks for the comments guys. As I said in the other thread at SSM, I really want this kit to be a no brainer. The price will be $289.00 + shipping.


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## JT1 (Nov 11, 2006)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Thanks for the comments guys. As I said in the other thread at SSM, I really want this kit to be a no brainer. The price will be $289.00 + shipping.


Looks great!


Will be...

How long until we can order?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

If all goes well, I should be ready to take orders in about a month.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I am looking forward to this! Thanks Trekmodeler!


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2006)

Someones been a busy fella 

I do belive you may just have made a lot of folks rather happy Trek, nicely done sir :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## duckier (May 25, 2006)

I'm know I am happy. This had just motivated me to pull the box out of the closet and get ready. Trekmodeler. How would you prefer a request? Per your website or through this site???


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Trek,

What are the white male and female connectors called that you have used for wiring? Can't find them for the life of me.

Tony


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

quick question...
is your lighting kit compatible with Han's armature?

thanks


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Raist3001 said:


> Trek,
> 
> What are the white male and female connectors called ...


 Chad and Buffy. 

The black male and female connectors are Jamal and Shenequa . 













What?


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

> What?


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/PL%20refit%20lighting%20kit/000_5826jj.jpg

I am talking about the white connector at the end of the wire load here.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> quick question...
> is your lighting kit compatible with Han's armature?
> 
> thanks


Good point since I have one of those as well. I was also wondering if the kit can be modified to have a fade effect in the navigational deflector from power down to full power up similar to the movies. Also can the impulse and warp nacelles be set up to fade on and off? This may all be too much trouble but would sure be cool.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Raist sorry about not replying to the PM. My box was full. 

They're called multi-pin connectors and headers. I purchase them in bulk from a local electronics surplus store. I'm sure they can be found at your local electronics surplus store or a Radio Shack.

Lou, I have never purchased Han's armature so I really am not sure. I have seen photos of it though and by examining them carefully I can say that my new lighting kit might actually conflict with it especially at the belly of the secondary hull and the warp pylon joints. 

Opus, That is definitely something I have been contemplating for a while. The light kit itself is completed but I may rework it in the future if I can just get the fading effects right. For now, the kit will have both circuits without the fading effect.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Thanks Trek. Tried my local radio shack. Could not find them, and the guy had no idea what I was talking about.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Trek,

Great job making a lighting kit that is beautiful and easy to implement. Nice job on your Blue-Back A as well!


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Raist, They rarely know lol. However, they are actually called connectors and headers. 

Thanks Colhero, I appreciate that. You're doing a hell of a job on your refit too.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Raist, They rarely know lol. However, they are actually called connectors and headers.


LOL...that's putting it mildly. Thanks for the info. I'll check a different R.S.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Yea, or you can try an Internet search. I'm sure they'd be available online. Just make sure where ever you decide to check for them to mention how many pins you want your connnectors to have.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Just make sure where ever you decide to check for them to mention how many pins you want your connnectors to have.


Should they have a max or min? I was thinking only 2 pins for neg and pos. Am I incorrect?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

You are correct, the min would be the 2 pin connectors. I don't really know the max but the max I use are 6 pins.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Trek, although I may have 6 pins, I would use only 2 of them?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Actually what I meant was, the connectors and headers come in a variety. 2 pin connectors and headers would be the minimum and while I don't know what the max is, the max I use is the 6 pin version. The min I use is the 2 pin version.


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## CessnaDriver (Apr 27, 2005)

Will there be a burn in test of the final design of the kit?
Meaning leave it on for a week straight and make sure nothing is getting over heated or fails?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Yes sir, absolutely. I consider such a test to be mandatory especially since each one of these light kits will be made to order. Every kit will be individually tested before they get shipped out to the customer but I don't think the tests will require as long as a full week to complete.


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## JT1 (Nov 11, 2006)

Any update on when the kits will be for sale?

JT


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Just went over to Trekmodeler's website and it appears offline. Anyone able to shed light on what happened, and if his kit will ever be available?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I can. I'm up to my neck in refit parts lol! I'm working on the latest one right now for a client. It will include the prototype light-up kit within it to serve as a proper example. Once it gets done, the kit will be ready for sale. The site will be back up soon. 
Nighty night folks

TTM


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## mechinyun (Feb 23, 2004)

Can't wait for this!


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## mactrek (Mar 30, 2004)

I just noticed this thread and I have a few of questions ...

Is it possible for the hull spot lights to remain on constantly, regardless of warp/impulse engine status? (I don't recall the spot lights shutting off at warp speeds.) 
Do the LED's for the spot lights, navigation and anticollision lights replace the clear kit parts? 
Is it possible to add the spot lights for the interconnecting dorsal between the primary and secondary hulls, the registry markings on the tails of the nacelles and the markings behind the bridge and planetary sensor array? 
How deep in to the model is the power jack placed? (I know it goes deep in to the MR 1701 which adds a lot of stability to the model when it's on the stand.) 
 Thanks in advance.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

mactrek said:


> Is it possible for the hull spot lights to remain on constantly, regardless of warp/impulse engine status? (I don't recall the spot lights shutting off at warp speeds.)


Absolutely; I just do it this way because it is easier to photograph without all the bright light in the way. 




mactrek said:


> Do the LED's for the spot lights, navigation and anticollision lights replace the clear kit parts?


Yes they do. 




mactrek said:


> Is it possible to add the spot lights for the interconnecting dorsal between the primary and secondary hulls, the registry markings on the tails of the nacelles and the markings behind the bridge and planetary sensor array?


There are LED spotlights for the main registry on the dorsal and ventral of the primary hull. There are also backlit spotlights behind the bridge and the planetary sensor array. There is an LED spotlight for the nacelle registry but only outboard. The interconnecting dorsal can be backlit. If you wish you can use Raytheons backlighting technique.




mactrek said:


> How deep in to the model is the power jack placed? (I know it goes deep in to the MR 1701 which adds a lot of stability to the model when it's on the stand.)


It goes in about a 1/2 inch. It is also reinforced with layers of epoxy and apoxy sculpt. 


]


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Ok guys, an update, 

The prototype is fully functional. It's passed all light tests and is ready to go. The only thing holding me back is the creation of a decent instructional manual. I've completed about 30 pages of drafts. Everything is done except, I'm now having trouble compiling it. It must be simple and easy to comprehend. That's my goal! 

Now, I know that a lot of you have been patiently waiting for this kit. I appreciate that very much; but until the manual is completed this kit will not be able to sell.
I'm still working on it persistently. Meanwhile, I do have an alternative offer for those of you who do not want to wait any longer for a lit refit kit. It's simple, you can send me your PL refit model kit and I will do the prep work and install all of the electronics for you. When everything is complete, the model will be left dry-fitted in 4 sections with plug-in leads. I will also include the custom display base fully crafted and painted; or if you wish, I can use the stock base. I will also accept limited lighting customizations. For instance, if you want I can do all of the modifications required for the main registry spotlights like raising the bridge 1/8 of an inch. All of the gluing, puttying & sanding and painting will be your job. 

The price of this offer with the custom wood base is $325.00 + shipping. This offer with the stock base is $265.00 + shipping. There will be a 4-5 day labor time frame. If you are interested just PM me, or email me at [email protected].


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

You've got mail.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

yeah ya do. :wave:


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

your website link is down. says the url does not exist. 
will the base work with the metal superstructure currently on the market?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

razorwyre1 said:


> your website link is down. says the url does not exist.
> will the base work with the metal superstructure currently on the market?



Yes sir, the website is temporarily down. I'm going to have some changes made to it and I'm also looking for a new webhost. In the meantime I can take orders and requests at [email protected]. 

My wood base has a copper display rod with a female connector attached to the top. It might be made compatible with some modifications but I do not have an armature to test that out. From what I see the armature has a display rod attached to it. If the rod attached to the bottom of the armature were to be removed it should work.


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