# Moebius Chariot TRACKS



## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

I do not think that we need worry about what Moebius may have up their sleeves on the LIS Chariot tread tracks.

I just picked up a new, yet odd 1/35 scale model of a WWII piece of equipment called a M4 High speed tractor by Hobby Boss...The quality of the kit is outstanding  and the kit bash possibilites are endless.

Anyways.....the *vinyl tracks* are in NO WAY like the older style tracks you have seen or used on tanks kits in the past....even Tamiya.

These tracks are amazing! They are soft, crisp in detail and have see through breaks between the parts! 

If this is todays modern kit standards in China....This 'could' be very good news for those who are concerned about that aspect of the Chariot kit.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I was ... unconcerned.


----------



## gaetan (Apr 6, 2005)

Sorry guys but I am concerned, Oupss!!! it seems that my view diverge again from John .....

On the Lunar models tracks prototypes, the configuration and the details were perfectly respected. The crappyness came from the resin quality and the molding procedure. My tracks details were so badly molded that the details had to be completely redone...... 

I know that Moebius molding end results won't even compare to LM. My concern is with the general configuration and the details . On the pics from Steve's site, ''to my eye'' there seem to be only one band of rubber each side of the row of wheels. Instead of two with the open space between that gives the chariot track it's singular look..... To me if it is the case it would be a major dicrepancy from the original . As for the detailing , it would be hard to comment from the abscence of pictures.

My comment must not be seen as negative but as constructive, since Frank and Dave often read the treads. I would like to get the most perfect model possible. If something can be corrected, it's now , not after all the molds are dones.

A ''concerned'' Gaétan


----------



## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

I would have liked to see plastic track links that SNAP together to form a track. This also allows for the proper "droop" between the runner wheels and can be painted.


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I would have liked egg in beer.

What I'm getting is a really good chariot model that I've been waiting 40 years for. If they've got to take a couple of shortcuts on the most difficult aspect of the model to get it done at a reasonable price, I'm fine with it.


----------



## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

John P said:


> I would have liked egg in beer.
> 
> What I'm getting is a really good chariot model that I've been waiting 40 years for. If they've got to take a couple of shortcuts on the most difficult aspect of the model to get it done at a reasonable price, I'm fine with it.


 

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

I found some extra plastic sprues that had the alphabet attached for store signs. All of the pieces when cut off were fairly uniform. Step one: Paint.
Step 2. Cut, Step 3, get some vinyl kit repair glue for like a pool. Step 4, glue away........

I plan on working on the outside part of the track next. I'm going to put those pre-cut plastic t's you see at hobby shops all across the chariot tread. I'll use the larger t every 8th blade. Still worried about the colors though. I think I'll paint them rust colored and weather each blade with some black.


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

j2man said:


> ...I'm going to put those pre-cut plastic t's you see at hobby shops all across the chariot tread. I'll use the larger t every 8th blade...


Thanks for the ideas! Looking forward to seeing your finished tracks.


----------



## Rattrap (Feb 23, 1999)

You know what, armor modelers have put up with the great track debate for years, and if there's enough demand, some enterprising aftermarket producer will put out a set of treads for the Chariot, and just like the ones for the tanks, they'll only be a _little_ more expensive than the Chariot itself.

As John said, I'm happy enough just to have one...


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

Here is another angle. Yep, but I'll dabble with my tracks until that happens. I'm having a ball with this kit as it is.........


----------



## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

John P said:


> I would have liked egg in beer.
> 
> What I'm getting is a really good chariot model that I've been waiting 40 years for. If they've got to take a couple of shortcuts on the most difficult aspect of the model to get it done at a reasonable price, I'm fine with it.





beatlepaul said:


> :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Got to agree there.

But nice work on yours to j2man


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

O.K. Here is the Second phase of Operation Chariot Tracks. I used Plastix Construx pieces from Hobbytown U.S.A. This is very Tedius and nerve racking. However it still rolls. I think I'm going to be very happy with the final product.


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

j2man said:


> O.K. Here is the Second phase of Operation Chariot Tracks. I used Plastix Construx pieces from Hobbytown U.S.A...


I'm afraid your pics are too blurry to see anything. Do you have a timer mode on your camera? That can help, if you set the camera on something that doesn't move.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

toyroy said:


> I'm afraid your pics are too blurry to see anything. Do you have a timer mode on your camera? That can help, if you set the camera on something that doesn't move.


He needs to see if the camera has a Macro setting.:thumbsup:


----------



## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

*My own treads*

I decided to forget the kit parts and make my own treads. I know the color may start anotherdebate, so I included a photo that sows them orange. I like the aded color so I did mine that way. Hope you like them.


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

RSN said:


> I decided to forget the kit parts and make my own treads. I know the color may start anotherdebate, so I included a photo that sows them orange. I like the aded color so I did mine that way. Hope you like them.


Like them, I love them........:thumbsup:Very nice job RSN. How did you make them and how flexable are they. Who cares about the color, they look like
the real thing.:woohoo: Can't wait to see them on you Charoit.


----------



## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

John P said:


> I would have liked egg in beer.
> 
> What I'm getting is a really good chariot model that I've been waiting 40 years for. If they've got to take a couple of shortcuts on the most difficult aspect of the model to get it done at a reasonable price, I'm fine with it.


I agree. :thumbsup:


----------



## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Like them, I love them........:thumbsup:Very nice job RSN. How did you make them and how flexable are they. Who cares about the color, they look like
> the real thing.:woohoo: Can't wait to see them on you Charoit.


Here's how I made them. I started with the gear wheel in the back to get the spacing. Next I drew up a full size set of plans on the computer. I used .020 sheet plastic for the long strips and .060 square rod for the treads. I cut about 90 or so for each track and glued them in place. Then I cut and angled the small pieces the stick up in the center of each track and glued them in position. A piece of sheet plastic was glued every 6th track for the paddle effect. On the bottom, the square stock was cut into cubes and glued into place. Paint to choice. The treads are the exact length and width of the kit part and bend around the wheels perfectly. It took a while to get the spacing right and to cut and assemble it, but I am happy with the results. Thanks for asking and I am glad you like them!


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

RSN said:


> Here's how I made them. I started with the gear wheel in the back to get the spacing. Next I drew up a full size set of plans on the computer. I used .020 sheet plastic for the long strips and .060 square rod for the treads. I cut about 90 or so for each track and glued them in place. Then I cut and angled the small pieces the stick up in the center of each track and glued them in position. A piece of sheet plastic was glued every 6th track for the paddle effect. On the bottom, the square stock was cut into cubes and glued into place. Paint to choice. The treads are the exact length and width of the kit part and bend around the wheels perfectly. It took a while to get the spacing right and to cut and assemble it, but I am happy with the results. Thanks for asking and I am glad you like them!


Truly a very fine piece of work, my freind...:thumbsup:


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

Hopefully the picture quality is a little better.


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

This one is a little better. Can't seem to get the lighting right though.


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Those are infinitely better than the kit tracks. I have a "Chopper" cutter that might be useful in making new tracks...


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Your patience over the tedious process involved in making those has paid off nicely. :thumbsup:
I'm plan to use the kit tracks, but in the future just might scratch build a set of tracks "J2man-style" for if or when the kit tracks deteriorate.


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

I used the actual track with the kt. I just did the tedius cutting of T pastic sticks from Hobbytown. What a nightmare. But I really like the end result. I sprayed a flat brown to the treads and touched up the ends with the same Pumpkin Orange I used on the kit. NOW, I'll probably start another chariot kit to fix all my mess ups...........I'm still planning on motorizing this one! I got the gearbox and motor (Tamaya) a few days ago. I will have to slightly alter the under carridge a bit......It should work nicely. My one concern is where the on/off switch should be placed. I'm afraid I will have to cut the rear window out and put it behind the Robot......


----------



## X15-A2 (Jan 21, 2004)

My hat is off to anyone who tackles scratch-built tracks for this subject! Well done!


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

j2man said:


> My one concern is where the on/off switch should be placed. I'm afraid I will have to cut the rear window out and put it behind the Robot......


I woud put it perhaps on the side "step" inside the doors, and then put a box or little piece of stowage over it that you can just slide forward or backwards a bit with the swithc inside.


----------



## j2man (Jun 18, 1999)

That's a great idea Nick! I will try to draw it out like that.


----------



## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*seen all the chariots pic*

thought I has seen ever LIS photo out there and then this one sprots up, where did you find that and who are the kids? nice find.


----------



## wolvenwood (Dec 5, 2009)

*Great tracks!*

RSN, your tracks rock. They are miles better than the ones supplied in the kit. I plan to dump my kit tracks too. Would you please post the basics of how you made them? What did you use for the bands, the stringers, and how did you join it all together?


----------



## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

wolvenwood said:


> RSN, your tracks rock. They are miles better than the ones supplied in the kit. I plan to dump my kit tracks too. Would you please post the basics of how you made them? What did you use for the bands, the stringers, and how did you join it all together?


Thank you. I will go back and look through my notes and supplies to see what all I used. Give me a couple of days. Here they are on the final product.


----------



## wolvenwood (Dec 5, 2009)

RSN: Thanks. I missed that you had described your process earlier in the thread. I was flummoxed by what to use for the long bands, but you hit on a really elegant solution using styrene. You mentioned that you drew up plans for your tracks. Would you mind sharing them on this forum? They look great on your Chariot! It really brings the whole kit up a level. After seeing yours, I am all gung ho to do the same.


----------



## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

wolvenwood said:


> RSN: Thanks. I missed that you had described your process earlier in the thread. I was flummoxed by what to use for the long bands, but you hit on a really elegant solution using styrene. You mentioned that you drew up plans for your tracks. Would you mind sharing them on this forum? They look great on your Chariot! It really brings the whole kit up a level. After seeing yours, I am all gung ho to do the same.


You are welcome. The plans I drew were on my computer that crashed. The Geek's saved 20 GB of "stuff" and if is is still there, I will try and post it when I get my new system up and running. (It is a very big, hi-res, file!) A word of warning about the styrene belts I made. They cracked as I was bending them around the drive gear on the back. To avoid this you could either heat the tread a bit before you put it on, or use a more flexible strip of black vinyl. Stay tuned.........

P.S. I also made a track for the bubble hatch so it opens and closes!


----------



## wolvenwood (Dec 5, 2009)

RSN: If you find the file, that would be great, but please don't let it cut into your modeling time. If the file is lost, I can use your photos as a guide for making my own template, and I'll post it here when I'm done. I do like the idea of a track for the bubble top. That should be easy with a little strip styrene. Thanks for all your help on this.


----------

