# What's your favorite putty?



## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

When you have a gap in your plastic model, 
what's your favorite material for filling it?


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## DoctorG (Jan 1, 1970)

Aves Apoxie Sculpt is my first choice. I still use a bit of Squadron white or green for tiny imperfections, but also use Woodland Scenics Foam Putty for things like pinholes in resin, etc.


Dr. G.


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## Otto69 (Jan 2, 2004)

I asked this question some months ago and David Merrimen replied, and that's what I use now:

Evercoat brand Spot Lite 

Evercoat Euro Soft

3m Acyrl Green spot putty

So far I've used 2 of the 3, one of the heavy 2 part putties and the 3m product. The 2 part putties are fantastic. Fast mixing, fast hardening, be sanding in 15 minutes. The spot putty I've used only a little. It sets very hard and so is only suitable for final fine finishing.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

I'm a fan of Eurosoft as well.

I try and avoid the solvent-based stuff due to shrinkage. Of the putty.


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

I've been using 2-part 24 hour epoxy glue and mixing it with microballoons. But to be frank, I'd like something which is a bit less trouble to prepare and also doesn't have the shrink problems that occur with some fillers. 

What is the scoop with Aves Epoxy Sculpt? Is it also a 2-part process? How long does it take to dry hard? How "sandable' is it? Can anyone compare it to the mixture that I've been whipping up myself?

Huzz


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## The-Nightsky (May 10, 2005)

I prefer Bondo automotive scratch filler....i know its got some carcinogens...but there is protection and vetilation,which I use.I find it the easiest to use and Ive had no problems w/shrinkage,After that I like squadron putty.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Dave Hussey said:


> What is the scoop with Aves Epoxy Sculpt? Is it also a 2-part process? How long does it take to dry hard? How "sandable' is it? Can anyone compare it to the mixture that I've been whipping up myself?


Answering your questions ... Apoxie Sculpt is a two-part putty (available in several colors -- I got the blue because it contrasts well with almost any other material I use). The container states you can work it for around three hours, but I've never pushed it that far, though I do sometimes let it sit a half-hour or so after I mix it before applying it. It can be smoothed with water and "sort of" thinned a bit with it too, but don't expect miracles on the latter. Don't know exactly how long it takes to cure, but I usually give it at least 12 hours. It is quite sandable. And for your final question -- _you_ can do that, if you buy some! 

Qapla'

SSB


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

i pretty much use whatever's in the drawer at the time lol .
i like the 2 part stuff that comes in the stick and ya knead it together for big jobs .
i like liquitex acrylic paste for seam filling but on occasion use sqaudron or even the junk from testors in the grey tube . 
model on 
hb


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## DoctorG (Jan 1, 1970)

Aves also sells a "safety solvent" that can be used to feather and smooth the Apoxie Sculpt (it also works well on cleaning up your putty tools).

The stuff dries rock hard overnight and can be drilled, sanded, etc.

I do mainly figure kits, so this product adapts wells to the variuous shapes and contours that these kits provide. For vehicular kits, there may be better products out there for handling flat surfaces, etc.

Dr. G.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Otto69 said:


> I asked this question some months ago and David Merrimen replied, and that's what I use now:
> 
> Evercoat brand Spot Lite
> 
> ...


Are these all hobby shop items? Or do I have to go anyplace special?
Thanks.


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

Thanks Scott!

Have you had any problems with Aves Epoxy Sculpt shrinking or cracking?

Huzz


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

A decent auto parts store might have them. An auto PAINT store would definitely carry something.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Dave Hussey said:


> Have you had any problems with Aves Epoxy Sculpt shrinking or cracking?


It doesn't shrink to any degree I can discern. As for cracking, if you mean the way Bondo will develop large fissures as it dries (if you're applying a big gob of the stuff), then no, it doesn't do that either. I suspect that's a manifestation of shrinking, anyway.

Qapla'

SSB


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## Otto69 (Jan 2, 2004)

Clubtepes,

Yes you'll have to go to an auto-paint supply store. Check the yellow pages and it should be easy to find. While you're there buy a box of disposable rubber gloves and a respirator mask with replaceable filter cartridges. These putties work VERY well, but the tradeoff is that they use toxic compounds which require that you show reasonable care. No more toxic than most people were breathing without respirators 40 years ago...but then people who did that 40 years ago could be like my dad now who has a blood disease possibly related to years of solvent use w/out proper ventilation.

The two Eurosoft putties I listed are like Bondo, useful for filling large cracks/seams and even for reprofiling flat surfaces into curved surfaces. You add the hardener, mix them, then slather them on with a tool or popsicle stick. They harden fast, although this may be adjustable with using less hardener?, so you need to be setup and ready to spread after mixing them.

My first and only use of the Eurosoft so far was on Captain America and on the Glencoe (Disney/Strombecker) 3 stage ferry rocket. If you're familiar with that kit it has a 3 part first stage with angled surfaces, but the original Von Braun design calls for a smooth curved surface. I put the putty on in nasty looking streaky blobs, it looked horrible. But 15 minutes later when it hardened I quickly wet sanded it down to a nice smooth curved surface which eventually finished up nicely with Alclad:

http://www.atombum.com/Images/Models/3Stage3.jpg

http://www.atombum.com/Images/Models/3Stage4.jpg


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

I Milliput white on my resin kits. Most of the time on Styrene, I can file down the seams, if there's a small gap I'll us the White Testors modeling filler in a tube.


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

Thanks Scott! One last question on the Aves Epoxy Sculpt (which is looking good so far to me):

Is it necessary to use the safety precautions that Otto recommends for the putties he lists?

And Otto - nice job on the ferry rocket! :thumbsup: I just got my copy of that kit and I'm very much looking forward to building it.

Huzz


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## from_beyond (Nov 9, 2001)

Aves Apoxie Sculpt for large gaps & resculpting

Aves Apoxie Paste for small gaps & air bubbles

Aves Safety Solvent for blending, feathering & clean up.

Zero shrinking, zero cracking, 2 hour work time, rock hard over night, sandable, drillable & has good adhesive properties.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Dave Hussey said:


> Is it necessary to use the safety precautions that Otto recommends for the putties he lists?


I never have, and I've never read anything to indicate I should. It _can_ be a bit sticky, though!

It has a fairly mild odor which reminds me, for some reason, of peanut butter.

Qapla'

SSB


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## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

For larger areas I use Magic Sculp, a two part epoxy that comes in two seperate tubs. Read about it and order from here:

http://www.magicsculp.com

This is great stuff, non-toxic and smooths out with water.

RK


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## Jimmy B (Apr 19, 2000)

Your going to laugh, but I always revert back to plane ol' Tester's Conture putty.


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## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

> _plane ol' Tester's Conture putty _





Is that anything like plain old Testor's _contour_ putty? :tongue:


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

I know people hate Testor's white, but I still use it occasionally. I also use CA, and occasionally, milliput. I find milliput particularly useful when I'm filling seams of subassemblies that have already been painted. For example, when I built a 1701-D, I attached the interconnecting dorsal to the engineering hull, then used milliput to fill the seam. I do this because it's so easy to wipe away the excess with a damp cloth. If you do it well, little sanding is needed. After it's dry, I touch up with a fine brush (using the base colour, or whatever colour is required) and away you go.

This, by the way, is a great way of getting rid of the seams on Bandai's pre-painted kits, once you determine the colour you need. The seams on my 1701 are much less visible after using this technique.

Brad.


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## JeffG (May 10, 2004)

I've always had good luck with either Tamiya Putty (Basic Type) or Squadron Green.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Bondo Glazing Putty, the red-orange stuff. Easy to work with, you can feather the edges with nail polish remover and a Q-tip, and no shrinkage (none that I've noticed, anyway).


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

What, if any, is the difference between Squadron Green and Squadron White. ( Besides color, of course )
Dabbler


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## Otto69 (Jan 2, 2004)

I think the two different squadrons are of different grits. However that stuff is horrible for filling large areas, or even medium areas, particularly for contour filling. It shrinks, and it doesn't 'machine' well like automotive putties. It also doesn't stick or spread well.

There's only one thing I use Squadron putty for now, and that's only because it's fast: for filling fine join lines using a technique I saw written up on the web - apply the Squadron trash putty, then using a Q tip dipped in nail polish remover, swab the filled seam. This will do a good job of removing the excess putty cleanly. However the seams need to be VERY fine, like where an airplane wing joins to a body, and it needs to be in a corner prefereably where the shrinkage of the putty won't be noticed.

I'm not exaggerating: until you try a 2 part automotive putty, you will never know how truly easy puttying can be, or how badly Squadron sucks. I don't blame Squadron though; I'm sure it's a matter of litigation. If you want a good putty you want something that has strong solvents in it, and that means you should take basic safety precautions, which translates to slightly higher expense for the gear ($50 for a mask and box of gloves). But it's soooooo good.

I have not used Aves, but based on what I've read here the fact that it takes 2 hours is a weakness for my purposes not a strength. I like the automotive putties that harden in 15 minutes because I can fill, sand, repeat, much faster. With something like squadron it's fill, wait a day, sand, refill, wait a day, repeat ad nauseum.


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## PhilipMarlowe (Jan 23, 2004)

Zombie_61 said:


> Bondo Glazing Putty, the red-orange stuff. Easy to work with, you can feather the edges with nail polish remover and a Q-tip, and no shrinkage (none that I've noticed, anyway).


Cheap too! The gargantuan tube cost less than one tiny tube of squadron. I like the red because it's easy to spot. you can thin it with acetone and brush it too, handy in tight spots. And Otto, it works just like Squadron with the tape-fingernail polish remover trick.


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## The-Nightsky (May 10, 2005)

Zombie_61 said:


> Bondo Glazing Putty, the red-orange stuff. Easy to work with, you can feather the edges with nail polish remover and a Q-tip, and no shrinkage (none that I've noticed, anyway).


exactly!!! Goes on nice n easy and for a $1.99 for a huge tube you just cant go wrong.I have never had any problems with shrinkage or large fissures either.


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Did anyone remember to mention Sylvester the putty tat? My personal favorite! T.U.C.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

The-Nightsky said:


> exactly!!! Goes on nice n easy and for a $1.99 for a huge tube you just cant go wrong.I have never had any problems with shrinkage or large fissures either.


It does it to me every single time I use it in large quantities. 

Qapla'

SSB


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## omnimodel (Oct 9, 2004)

sbaxter said:


> It does it to me every single time I use it in large quantities.
> 
> Qapla'
> 
> SSB


Ditto here. The Bondo is usually ready to wet sand within the hour, too. One thing I'd mention to anyone unfamiliar with using the Bondo putty. If you glop it on too thick, it will eat into styrene... I'd recommend thin coats on top of a primed surface.

Enjoy!


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## Night-Owl (Mar 17, 2000)

Aves Apoxie Sculpt and Apoxie Paste.


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## PRE-SCENES 2 (Aug 16, 2005)

I'm planning to sculpt a fairly large figure and was wondering what would be the best medium to use that can dry fast and harden in a few hours or so. I haven't had too much _suck-sess _ with sculpy and I don't like "_cooking_" it either. How would *Magic Sculp * do? I've heard some pretty good things about it. Is it buy on the internet only? My local hobby shops haven't heard of it before. Any 4-1-1 is well-combed.

P-S2


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## DoctorG (Jan 1, 1970)

Mike Allen at Forbidden Zone turned me on to the Bondo Spot and Glazing Putty and so far, I like it a LOT better than either Squadon green or white. This stuff dries in a short time with no shrinkage and sands smooth. As others mentioned, the red color makes it very easy to see where it's been applied, etc.


As for the odor, it's about the same as Squadron to me, so I'd clearly recommned some form of ventilation when using this product.

Dr. G.


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