# PL 1:1000 TOS Enterprise Painting



## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

I think there used to be a painting guide here once but I can't find it. Maybe someone could provide a link? Anyway just in case, I have a question about painting the clear parts:

The upper and lower clear domes on the primary saucer hull - should I paint the inside surfaces white or maybe yellow? What has everyone else done with these? 

The two engine dome inner clear parts with the ribs - I was thinking of painting these bright red with orange highlighting for the ribs or the opposite. What do you think? I guess I'll leave the outer domes clear unless someone can tell me how to frost the inside surfaces somehow.

Also, I was thinking of using elmers white glue to mask the outside of the bridge dome and engine domes, that I could peel off after painting. Would that work okay or would you recommend masking with some sort of tape to do the same thing?

Thanks,

Steve


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

I use liquid frisket for masking, but I bet white glue would work alright.

Also...I painted the insides of the upper and lower sensor domes with luminescant paint! The effect is pretty cool.

Since the bussard domes snap on, you could paint those seperately and then add them last after you have painted the rest of the ship. As for me, I carefully brush painted the trim rings around the dome area ( since I'm building the second pilot/mirror Enterprise version, the insides were painted more or less a solid red, nothing fancy ) and then attached them last. I usually only brush paint small parts. The rest are shot with airbrushed acrylics.

I don't have any suggestions on how to paint the bussard caps for the production version yet, although I will dullcoat the inside of mine to frost it for the next PL 1000 that I do, since it will use production-era warp nacelles. Then I will reverse paint the effect I want to achieve behind that. The model will be non-lit.


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

Yes, I forgot to mention that I am doing the production version and will be unlit as well. Your luminescant paint effect sounds cool! This model is so small to do detail work on it. PL needs a 1:350 version of this baby. You know it would have to sell more units than any other kit (including the 1701-A) they have produced!


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

^ Agree completely. They wouldn't be able to keep a 350th TOS E on the shelves. Almost every one of us would probably have an average of 5 copies EACH on preorder, LOL!!!


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

Addendum: You'd be surprised how much detail you can get on the PL 1000!

Just look at what Thomas did with his...azteking and all!


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

GLU Sniffah said:


> You'd be surprised how much detail you can get on the PL 1000! Just look at what Thomas did with his...azteking and all!


He must have tiny fingers or a big magnifying glass!


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## ThomasModels (Mar 8, 2000)

Thanks guys!

The hull plating isn't that difficult. I see that MANY guys try to make it 'perfect', neat and tidy when all you really need, and at this scale, is an effect.

When Mr. S. asked me to build him one and mark it as the Defiant, I checked out the images Rob sent and decided to paint it to look like the Eden version. I started out assembling the parts, puttying the engraved lines on the nacelles and on the neck. I left the aft and fore caps, reactor loops and deflector dish loose for painting later. The loose nacelle domes were masked with masking tape, cut and trimmed to fit around the 'dome clamps'. The lower array and bridge array domes were also masked with masking tape pressed firmly into place and trimmed. The clear nav lights and homing beacon were masked with white glue painted on. All of the loose parts and main body were primered:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_03.jpg

The main body, aft globes, and reator loops were painted with a custom mix of Rustoleum matte white, Testors silver, blue and green:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_04.jpg

I reduced the templates for the 1/350 Refit I am working on and ran off a set of the 'even' and 'odd' patterns. A sheet of frosted clear drafting film was placed on the printed pattern and hand cut out with a sharp #11 X-Acto. A couple of staggered 'stair-step' patterns were also cut out for the engines and secondary hull. A few other odds-and-ends type templates of small squares and rectangles were also cut out. The templates were held onto the hull surface with one hand and the base color tinted darker with the Testors silver was airbrushed on with the other hand. The templates were moved around the saucer, top and bottom to create the effect. The same technique was used to apply the plating pattern to the rest of the ship:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_05.jpg

A bottom view showing the plating on the saucer bottom and secondary hull:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_06.jpg

Postit™ notes were wrapped around the secondary hull and engines. The darker plating color was airbrushed on along the Postit™ edges to create weather panel lines:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_07.jpg

Another pass with the hull plating templates, this time with a darker shade of the plating color:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_08.jpg

The base color, lightened up with the Rustoleum white, is airbrushed on all over the model's surface to reduce the contrast of the hull plating:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_09.jpg

The forward leading edge of the neck was masked:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_10.jpg

And painted with the base color tinted green:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_11.jpg

The forward underside of the nacelles were masked and painted with the base color heavily tinted with silver:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_12.jpg

The 'linear accelerator', inboard engine channels, and the raised aft vents on each side of the back ends of the engines were masked:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_13.jpg

Those areas were airbrushed with a mix of 75% silver and 25% white with a drop of black added:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_14.jpg

The triangles on the saucer bottom were masked and airbrushed with the silver/white mix. The nacelle forward louvers, aft caps, impulse deck and bridge elevator were also painted with this color:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_15.jpg

For the life of me I don't remember where I bought this, but the inboard engine grills were covered with aluminum tape cut to shape. The tape was burnished down;
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_16.jpg

The inboard loops were attached to the engines. All masking was removed from the array domes and nav lights:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_17.jpg

One thing I failed to consider is the tight tolerance of the inner and outer domes. I painted the ones that were glued into the model only to discover the outer domes would no longer fit. The built model inner domes were sawed off. With 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around the eraser end of a pencil, I sanded the outer dome insides to frost them. Another pair of inner domes were painted very light orange on the inner surface. The outside had red lightly airbrushed around the base and a small spot on center was painted on. The ribs were hand painted red. Even though the final domes were closer to orange in color, they appear very red here:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_19.jpg

The inner dome fronts were cut to fit onto the fronts of the engines and the outer domes were epoxied into place:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_20.jpg

The aft globes were glued into the aft caps. These assemblies were attached to the aft ends of the engines, completing assembly:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_21.jpg

The deflector amp rings were painted with a mix of 50% copper/black. The model was then dullcoted. Several pieces of masking tape were layered on top of each other and placed on the lower array center. This protected the clear dome from the compass needle which was used to lightly draw on the circular grid lines. The radial lines were drawn on with pencil using a narraw strip of sheet styrene as a guide:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_22.jpg

The same technique was used on the saucer top. Both sides took the better part of 14 hours to draw on! You can't rush this part and rememebr to keep your pencil sharp on each pass!
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_23.jpg

The entire model was dullcoted again to seal the pencil on. After drying, weathering was very lightly brushed on using orange, gray, and green colored ground pastel chalk:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_24.jpg

The ground chalk was applied to recessed areas to create shadows. Intersecting areas such as around the lower array, where the neck and pylons intersect, and a few streaks on the leading edges of the pylons, neck and saucer had the chalk applied:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_25.jpg

The entire model was gloss coated in preparation for decaling. When gloss or dull coating pastel weathering, it darkens. The deflector dish was painted copper and the spike painted silver:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_26.jpg

Several sheets of names, windows and hull graphics were printed. The graphics on the bottom were meticulously applied:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_27.jpg

The top was decaled also:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_28.jpg

The model was dullcoted completing it:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_30.jpg
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_31.jpg
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_32.jpg
http://www.thomasmodels.com/mikes/1764_36.jpg

That's how I _model starships_! Then again, I am not a member. 

I hope there is something in there helpful for you Steve! Good luck on yours and if you need any help, please feel free to ask!


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## Babaganoosh (Dec 16, 2004)

Thom, I don't know if I've I've ever mentioned this...and I think I speak for everyone here when I say...

I hate you.

Seriously, though. You are a master. I worship you.

Couple questions, though;
How do you keep from having a gap under the bridge where the bridge meets the saucer B&C deck bulkhead?

How do you keep the area on the bottom of the hull, just behind the navigational deflector flat?

How do you paint the bussard domes well while taking care to detail the three nubbins that are at the 120° points?

I'd be doing very well if I could just nail down these small quirks.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

^ To quote Tom Hanks in Apollo 13: _*" And that, Gentlemen, is how we do that! "*_

How much more detail does the PL 1000 need than this...


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## ThomasModels (Mar 8, 2000)

Babaganoosh said:


> I hate you.


 Yes, I have heard that - _Once or twice!_ Some more serious than others.  Maybe it was three times. I've lost count.

1) Putty. I've been using Aves apoxy for about 10 years now on tiny spot filling like that.

2) Are you talking about the channel on center where the front cap meets the two secondary hull halves? After putting, I'm pretty sure I sanded that area flat. Probably with wet/dry paper, used wet.

3) I applied masking tape to the forward loose dome. I cut around the dome and the clamps (nubbins) and peeled away the excess. After painting, a little scraping with the X-Acto removes any excess unwanted paint.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y64/tongorad/models.jpg

As you can see, there are several approaches to how this kit can be done. I chose to work in sub-assemblies. My paint scheme is much simpler than Thomas' because I'm doing a different version of the ship. I'm taking some artistic liberties with the colors, but nothing too outrageous. I won't be azteking this ship, but I HAVE made use of the post-it note/pastel chalk technique on the secondary hull to generate some panel lines as you can see. Right now, I'm still decaling the saucer, hence the glosscoat.

In fact, I need to get back to work!!!


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## REL (Sep 30, 2005)

Thom, that is some awesome work. In one of the pictures you had a damaged refit in the background, that looked really good too.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Thanks, Thom. That's quite a model.
Your custom color really looks right...


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## Babaganoosh (Dec 16, 2004)

ThomasModels said:


> Yes, I have heard that - _Once or twice!_ Some more serious than others.  Maybe it was three times. I've lost count.
> 
> 1) Putty. I've been using Aves apoxy for about 10 years now on tiny spot filling like that.
> 
> ...


For clarity:

Flat area on the bottom of the hull just behind the navigational deflector









and
"nubbins"


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

For the bussard inserts I brush painted mine using an craft store yellow, then I airbrushed the outer domes mm clear red acrylic, I first tried this on 1 of the other outer domes over the inserts and the have they looked realy good so I then did the same with the outer domes that I was going to use. Unfortunatly after they where glued in place I had to mask them off for some touch up painting and when I removed the masking there where a couple of tiny spots of grey, and no matter what I've tried the spots refuse to dissapear. Oh did I mention that I dipped the domes in Future floor polish and that they looked realy awsome? Just like the ones on the 11 footer when it was lit up, the coloring that is.


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

ThomasModels said:


> That's how I _model starships_! I hope there is something in there helpful for you Steve! Good luck on yours and if you need any help, please feel free to ask!


You're a GOD. Thanks man, that is a very nice and complete painting guide!

The model is great so the only thing that puzzled me with the molding is at the front of the secondary hull the forward side protrusions do not fit snugly against the deflector ring structure and leave a gap all around that has to be filled carefully. The bottom protrusion fits exactly. Do you know why this is the case?

*Thanks again, that was great painting info there! Now get to work and push Polar Lights for a 1:350 version*


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## BATBOB (Jul 14, 2003)

Well Thomas, I am not a big fan of aztecing on the TOS E, but your work is really nice as usual.

Seeing those build up pics reminds me of a time a few years ago when I saw your prototype work on what was to eventually be the 1/1000 PL E. I think that kit will be hard to top in my own personal anticipation.


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## PhilipMarlowe (Jan 23, 2004)

Great painting tips Thomas! I've got a already built 18" AMT I'll use those on one day!


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## Babaganoosh (Dec 16, 2004)

ThomasModels said:


> Yes, I have heard that - _Once or twice!_ Some more serious than others.  Maybe it was three times. I've lost count.
> 
> 1) Putty. I've been using Aves apoxy for about 10 years now on tiny spot filling like that.


sculpt or paste?


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## Boxster (Aug 11, 2005)

Thomas, you're the best! Fantastic work!

I became a fan of the TOS E because of your work when I joined this forum a while back!

B


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## ThomasModels (Mar 8, 2000)

Thank you all, I really appreciate your kind words! Please remember this is my job. I do it for the most part because I like it. I am just a simple man making my way across the universe. And no, I haven't been to Coruscant.



REL said:


> Thom, that is some awesome work. In one of the pictures you had a damaged refit in the background, that looked really good too.


 Thanks, REL! That model was actually an 18" TOS marked as Kongo. It was built in two sections. One for planetside crash:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/classicbuilds/ksaucer17.jpg

The building of this model can be seen here:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/kongoprime.html

With the Secondary Hull adrift:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/kongosec.html

Here is a small wmv format file showing the extraordinary lighting by our own jwrjr:
http://www.thomasmodels.com/classicbuilds/1710pt4.wmv


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## Boxster (Aug 11, 2005)

You got the most obscenely beautiful works around! I seen lotsa stuff from one universe to the other, but I never seen an all powerful builder like yourself!

What lights you used in the damaged areas? The flash lights I meant. Damn, those are mighty good!

B


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Nice work, Thomas. What do you use to dullcoat?


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

I know, that if Thomas Sasser does it, it is the best. I hope to get close to as great as he is, before I die. 

Oh, and Thomas, I hate you! Now that makes 4 times. Feel better now. :tongue: 

I am not sucking up!


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## Boxster (Aug 11, 2005)

Yikes, I hope I don't sound like I am sucking up. :freak: 

However, ST is still new to me especially aztec and detailings so what Thomas shown here are all new to me tho I seen some of the pictures before. 

Having seen many ST models built online some good, some great and some aren't, IMO, I think Sasser's work is definitely the extreme. I doubt anyone of us will spend 14 hours drawing lines on the hull. :drunk: 

Would be interesting to see what Thomas is building next!

B


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## Larva (Jun 8, 2005)

What a fantastic illustrated missive on starship modeling Thomas has put together! PL should publish it and include it as a booklet with the 1/1000th E, maybe as part of a Star Trek 40th Anniversary Edition.

Eric


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

I'm glad Thomas posted all that. It had a few items I had not considered, like filling the scribed lines and watching out for the tight fit on the engine inner/outer clear parts when painting the inner ones.

I still want to know the best way to get a flat fill on where the rectangular areas on the secondary hull meets the deflector housing. Seems to be some bad molding design there. They get the bottom protrusion right, I can't fathom how they missed doing the same on the side ones since they are supposed to be the same exact shape!

As far as actually building the model goes, I have to get my paint colors in order so I can paint and build it. I'm also going to make a custom mounting rod to match were the studio model was mounted on it's stand. I'm also thinking of scratchbuilding a small Botany Bay in scale as a companion piece mounted next to the Enterprise attached to the same display base to make sort of a "Space Seed" diorama. There are plans and photos on Phil Broad's www.cloudster.com website.


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## REL (Sep 30, 2005)

ThomasModels said:


> Thanks, REL! That model was actually an 18" TOS marked as Kongo. It was built in two sections.


Wow. That is excellent work, the damage looks completely real.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

ThomasModels said:


> Thanks, REL! That model was actually an 18" TOS marked as Kongo.


AMT/ERTL or one of your own creation?


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