# airbrushing Future



## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I know this is a popular subject but how do you get it to airbrush better?
I use my Badger 350 external mix and it seems to spray alright but beads up a bit on the surface of the matt paint. How do I get it to stop doing that? I guess I could go back to Testors Gloss cote...


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Cut it fifty fifty with alcohol..... you can remove mistakes with windex,or ammonia water.....


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## MightyMax (Jan 21, 2000)

You really shouldnt need to thin Future at all, in my experience.

Check this out for helpful hints

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Cheers
Max Bryant


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## louspal (Sep 13, 2009)

MightyMax said:


> You really shouldnt need to thin Future at all, in my experience.
> 
> Check this out for helpful hints
> 
> ...


Great resource and point from Max. Future should not "bead up". It is meant to self-level but IMO when atomized by an AB some funky things happen like orange-peeling. This could be addressed by adding a drop or two of Windex (ammonia) to the Future as this will further reduce the surface tension of the solution. The other fix would be to brush it on, or dip the part directly into the Future, dabbing away excess before it sets-up.
If it is rolling off the surface, maybe you should buff it lightly, like you would before applying a decal over a flat finish.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

MightyMax said:


> You really shouldnt need to thin Future at all, in my experience.


Tell that to my chapter of the IPMS.


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## MightyMax (Jan 21, 2000)

falcondesigns said:


> Tell that to my chapter of the IPMS.


What Chapter?


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

The times I've shot future it HAS beaded up, but then it levels off. I tried using a couple drops of dish soap, but saw no difference really. Freaks me out, but the Future evens out on its own.

Try different pressures so the spray is more of a mist, this might lessen the beading. Again, it should still get even on its own.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

MightyMax said:


> What Chapter?


Puerto Rico.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The current "formula" for Pledge With Future Shine aparently does not airbrush well or as the older "Future" airbrushed. I see many people now brush it on.


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## waterman (Feb 16, 2010)

The only Future I could find here (Hawaii) is the Pledge type (w/Future Shine). I have used it straight from the bottle with a few drops of Windex added, but the problem I experienced airbrushing it (including my Tamiya paints) was flooding. It went on way too wet and stayed that way for too long. Also, while waiting for coats to dry, my airbrush tip would clog.

My Canadian friend said I'm spraying in a humid environment and suggested thinning my acrylic paints with 99 percent alcohol to help speed the drying time. I could only find 91 percent alcohol here. However, using it to thin Future eliminated all my flooding problems. The drying time between coats is similar to using Tamiya spray cans...the paint dries in a reasonable amount of time, so building up coats doesn't take too long. Also, no more tip clogging...airbrushing is now a breeze.

I guess when it comes to mixing paint, the best formula to use really depends on your environment (temperature and humidity)...and your equipment.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I guess so! I have no trouble spraying it straight from the bottle here in Jersey.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The humidity here today is 75%,I guess thats why most modellers here make a 50/50 mix of future and alcohol.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I was experimenting with airbrushing it over a metal finish to see how it would affect the sheen. Sealing decals is something I want to do but also want to avoid screwing up the metal finish. The metallic paint (from a spray can) was allowed to fully cure then I buffed it out with fine steel wool which produced a very smooth surface. The future came out and flooded. It looked like it was about to run but didn't. As it dried, it had a tendency to "bead" away from panel lines/rivets. The cured result did have some 3D bumps. This is what I meant by "bead up". 

Years ago, I used Future to seal the decals on my TOS Enterprise. The paint was a Gloss Gull Gray, recommended by Thom Sasser. I remember the Future had trouble spreading out on the gloss surface.

My next experiment, I believe I'll try adding the alcohol to help break the surface tension.

I must say this stuff is frustrating and perhap just hand brushing it on will do better!


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## waterman (Feb 16, 2010)

In regards to spraying Future over a metal finish, I've sprayed it over Alclad "Burnt Metal" and its sheen changed. Future made it darker and killed its natural luster/brilliance. The surface obviously still shines, but its more of a plastic appearance...it looks like a dull metallic finish that has been clear coated. In any case, Future over Alclad Burnt Metal seems to alter the natural metal look.

Your beading comment suggests you could have traces of oil or dirt in your panel lines and rivets (perhaps from handling or using an oil based wash). In any case, always wipe down your surface prior to spraying. Use water with a tiny teeny hint of soap added (just enough where you can see a hint of lathering when you shake the water).

Alcohol will help Future to dry faster, but I don't think it will do anything to break the surface tension. Try adding a few drops of Windex (I use 2 drops in my paint cup).


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## waterman (Feb 16, 2010)

falcondesigns said:


> The humidity here today is 75%,I guess thats why most modellers here make a 50/50 mix of future and alcohol.


Googling our humidity, the lowest seems to be 52% and the high is 81%. Our average humidity is probably between 60 to 70 percent.


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