# Tyco TR-X train style racing.



## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Just to clarify, this post isn't about racing HO trains. It's about racing slot cars linked together, aka short track train racing. 

So here's the situation, I've been playing around with different home-brew versions of tyco's TR-X pull-behind setup and come to the conclusion they actually put some thought into it. And I'm noticing the bodies are fairly attainable, the straps not so much. 

Duplicating walled track, no problem, bunch O' guardrail fixes that. But the cord between the cars can't be slack like string, or they start pulling bodies off going into and coming out of corners. Nod to the semi-rigid nature of the TR-X strap.

It also looks like the TR-X strap offers a torsional link between the cars so the rear one doesn't roll over as easily. With string you're dragging an upside down car for half a lap. Another nod to the TR-X strap

Searches came up with nothing, so does one of you guys have a better idea than hunting down brittle original straps by the handful? There's gotta be an ingenious solution to make similar straps yourself. Hopefully there's a suggestion for something that races even better than original straps  

Ideas, thoughts, suggestions, & random mad ramblings are all welcome.


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

how about that flat wire from computers?its fairly rigid,and you could cut it anyway you want.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I have a number of the TR-X cars myself, and a couple unopened sets (I think). What I never understood was, what was the point?

As to a replacement strap; leather from an old belt? Real stiff rubber band?

Joe


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## old blue (May 4, 2007)

Any pictures?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Sounds like a zip tie would fit the bill. Just find the right size(thickness) and cut to length.
The ends would be easy enough to modify with some heat.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

old blue said:


> Any pictures?


 
Wouldn't mind seeing a pic myself.  rr


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## oldtoyguy (May 31, 2009)

*Yep*

I seen this thread last night and was thinking zip ties would work too. I had some of those cars years ago I got in an auction lot but I forget what the things looked like, seems like they were black.
They may make clear zip ties? I have some small tes that are almost clear and have square holes in them, they may work good?


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Google found these pix. With the description there, it's finally becoming clear. But it still takes some getting used to.

What you'd do to recreate the tow straps, depends on how flexible they need to be. I think I'd start with different sizes of insulated electrical wire, either multistrand or single-conductor depending on how flexible you need. I'd solder a couple of small washers on the ends, then dip the whole thing a couple of times in that liquid rubbery plastic that the hardware stores sell for dipping tool handles. Flexible cord or string, glued to nylon washers, and dipped in liquid insulation, or sheathed in heat-shrink insulation might be another route.

Just talking off the top of my head. (As usual).  
My way of playing with little cars without having to leave my recliner. Take it for whatever it's worth.

-- D


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Dslot said:


> Go
> 
> Just talking off the top of my head. (As usual).
> My way of playing with little cars without having to leave my recliner. Take it for whatever it's worth.
> ...


That sir, might be the laziest thing I ever heard  Too funny. 

Zip ties are an interesting idea. Non conductive, adjustable, and could fit loosely while providing a secure connection. Hmmm.......

One thing that seems important is the pull points. Like pulling on the nose of the rear car makes it track straighter than pulling on it's front axle. Pull height is also a consideration.

I believe on the tyco sets the pulled car doesn't use a pin. Any opinions one way or the other about if it should?? 

Thanks for the responses and keep em coming!


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## eastside johnny (May 13, 2008)

I have a bunch of those cars...just used the Camaro & Firebird bodies painted up for an IROC style series. Might still have the connectors around here someplace? Still have the bodies. Can't say that I'll know real soon, but I'll look around in the cave.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Grandcheapskate said:


> I have a number of the TR-X cars myself, and a couple unopened sets (I think). What I never understood was, what was the point?
> 
> As to a replacement strap; leather from an old belt? Real stiff rubber band?
> 
> Joe


Do you have an opened set to comment on how rigid the tyco pull-strap is? It would be helpful to know what it compares too, the curve they take for photos indicates they're probably stiffer than a rubber band. 

As to the point, many of the racers at my house are IMCA license holders, and the track owner once spent an evening in a brake car. :thumbsup: Beating and bangin short trackin is hugely popular in all scales.

rubbing IS racing. :tongue:

BTW leather is also a good idea.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

440s-4ever said:


> I believe on the tyco sets the pulled car doesn't use a pin. Any opinions one way or the other about if it should??


The eBay ad I found said:
TEAM RACING ... THE FRONT RUNNING CARS PULL A DUMMY BLOCKER CAR THAT YOU RACE AROUND THE TRACK SWINGING IT SIDE TO SIDE BLOCKING OUT THE OTHER RACE TEAM CAR OR CARS!​
If the blocker car had a pin, then it couldn't veer in and out of the opponent's lane. Sounds like it's meant to swing free.

-- D


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

440s-4ever said:


> Do you have an opened set to comment on how rigid the tyco pull-strap is? It would be helpful to know what it compares too, the curve they take for photos indicates they're probably stiffer than a rubber band.


I don't think so. The other problem is that I have spent the past few months at my parents house and the Tyco sets are at my house. However, I should have the TR-X packaged cars here. That may not help much since I can't get a feel for the strap.

There were four TR-X packaged car sets available. They may still be available if you have a vendor that deals with REH. These were also fairly common auction items when I used to browse a lot.

Joe


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## oldtoyguy (May 31, 2009)

As I recall the things were pretty stiff, they may have had some stretch but I don't think anything like a rubber band. I forget what the dummy cars had for a chassis but I think they just tagged along without a guide pin.
It's been many moon and I could be mistaken.
A zip or 2 should work , even if you had to use 2 for each car, connected tail to tail once ran the ends through the tops to form the loops.
Cut the excess off and connect them , would be easy with the small ties with the square holes in them.
Keep an eye on GREEDbay and you will probally find a complete set one day, or the parts you need.
I think the auto parts stores have the zip ties with the square holes in them, or the dollar stores, I forget where I got the ones I have and they may make them in black too or use regular small black zip ties and make your own holes and connect them , sew them if you have to unless you can find some glue that works on that type of poly?


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

There are sets of originals on fleabay every now and then but not so sure I want to spend money around those 30 year old straps. The only time you see the straps is with $20-40 of cars/bodies. And I just can't picture an old one taking much abuse.


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## [email protected] (Jan 31, 2010)

I have only one TR-X set of cars. The rubber piece reminds me of a scale rubber bungee cord. I'd buy a black bungee cord and cut the size you need. The car being trailered is a HP-7 chassis with only a magnet and plastic wheels and no guide pin. The bungee cord rubber has the same texture and if you are good with a razor blade then you have what you need.


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