# Little Resin kit of Horrors



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm working on a resin kit of "Audrey" the carnivorous plant from Little shop of Horrors.
This kit has a ton of pinholes,








Is there a way to tackle this many without spending 2 months doing it?









Steve


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## wolfman66 (Feb 18, 2006)

steve123 said:


> I'm working on a resin kit of "Audrey" the carnivorous plant from Little shop of Horrors.
> This kit has a ton of pinholes,
> 
> 
> ...


 Damm!Looks like someone took a BB gun to it!Problems like this use Squadron green putty:dude:


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## Facto2 (Nov 16, 2010)

Dang! Someone needs to learn to powder their molds. I'd actually go with Subterrain Foam Putty to fill that many holes.


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## rhinooctopus (May 22, 2011)

*Pin holes*

I'm assuming the producer of the kit skipped town? If not...I'd ask for a new one!
If the kit is out of production...have patience, Grasshopper!

Phil K


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I would probably try using Bondo to do it. It is fairly fluid out of the tube so I would take a small flat edged piece of plastic, put the Bondo on it, and then kind of squeegee it over the surface using some force to get it into the holes. It is very easy to sand off afterwards and with some care during the sanding I think you can prevent removing the "veining" protrusions. That certainly was a mess of air bubbles when he poured it.

Bob K.


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## SaturnLtd (Jan 6, 2008)

Facto2 said:


> Dang! Someone needs to learn to powder their molds. I'd actually go with Subterrain Foam Putty to fill that many holes.


Is powdering the molds the answer John? I just got some kits from a producer that supposedly powders his molds & in addition to tons of air bubbles, all the kits are absolutely loaded with resin boogers everywhere. When you scrape them off, there's an air bubble under each one. This is an experienced caster btw. Very frustrating!!

The Squadron Green Putty sounds like a good solution Danny. Anyone ever try vinyl spackling compound to repair this type of defect?


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thank you guys! It's for a friend...will green stuff and bondo cut with isopropyl alchol?
That way I can wipe off most of the excess before sanding, and I did get some new scotchbrite today I'm gonna need it.

Steve


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## Chinxy (May 23, 2003)

In the past when I find that happen on a kit I use Mod Podge Matte-Mat and use a big brush to go over it. You can get this at Michaels for about $5 or so. It's like thick milk and when it dries it's hard and clear. Plus very paintable. I've used it many times for a lot of things.


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## SpaceCrawler (Mar 22, 2010)

rkoenn said:


> I would probably try using Bondo to do it. It is fairly fluid out of the tube so I would take a small flat edged piece of plastic, put the Bondo on it, and then kind of squeegee it over the surface using some force to get it into the holes. It is very easy to sand off afterwards and with some care during the sanding I think you can prevent removing the "veining" protrusions. That certainly was a mess of air bubbles when he poured it.
> 
> Bob K.


Where can you get bondo, and is there a certain type to buy? Never worked with it before but I have a similar problem with a kit.

Sean


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## wolfman66 (Feb 18, 2006)

SaturnLtd said:


> The Squadron Green Putty sounds like a good solution Danny.


Thanks and using that method on a kit that have here on the bench and another thing the veins on the plant you can easly duplicate with aves exposy sculpt.


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## wolfman66 (Feb 18, 2006)

SpaceCrawler said:


> Where can you get bondo, and is there a certain type to buy? Never worked with it before but I have a similar problem with a kit.
> 
> Sean


Sean Autoparts stores carry Bondo:dude:


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## noahasarcmi (Sep 20, 2011)

How big are the air holes Steve? Maybe you just add in some zap-a-gap to the holes and sand smooth. This worked for me on my Wolverine with smaller air bubbles. IIRC those bubbles are because they didn't stir the resin long enough. 

-Nathan


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## Chinxy (May 23, 2003)

Chinxy said:


> In the past when I find that happen on a kit I use Mod Podge Matte-Mat and use a big brush to go over it. You can get this at Michaels for about $5 or so. It's like thick milk and when it dries it's hard and clear. Plus very paintable. I've used it many times for a lot of things.


Forgot to mention due to a phone call. When you apply it over the model it fills the holes nicely and when it dries it's very hard.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

The holes range in diameter from bigger that a toothpick's diameter to micro holes.
Maybe the guy cast it in the vacum of space..where everything boils..lol

I'll try the mod podge too!! and I have some Aves to fix the big stuff, But I'm trying not to remove too much detail by using scotch brite and alchohol to remove the excess putty.

Thanks guys!


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## Facto2 (Nov 16, 2010)

SaturnLtd said:


> Is powdering the molds the answer John? I just got some kits from a producer that supposedly powders his molds & in addition to tons of air bubbles, all the kits are absolutely loaded with resin boogers everywhere. When you scrape them off, there's an air bubble under each one. This is an experienced caster btw. Very frustrating!!


It’s part of the answer but he needs to be using a talc free baby powder. The powder sort of pulls the resin into the mold. If he’s using a different kind of powder it’s probably not working. Also, he could try pressure casting which would get rid of the majority of bubbles. It sounds like he’s doing gravity pours and he may be using a resin that sets up too quickly thereby trapping air bubbles in the casting. I’ve seen plenty of gravity poured kits that look great. Should mention you can’t use pressure casting on a mold that has not been de-aired (see next paragraph).

Those little booger are caused by air bubbles near the surface of the mold. The reason that happens is because he didn’t put the silicone in a vacuum chamber to get the air out. Also, some mold makers don’t realize you can paint on the first layer of silicon. Using a stiff brush you basically press the silicone into all the nooks and crannies of the sculpt. You give it about a half hour for the silicone to settle in then you pour on the rest of your de-aired silicone.

In the photo Steve123 showed, it’s clear the caster didn’t use powder and is gravity pouring. Probably waited too long to pour in the resin too. If gravity pouring you can also spin the mold by hand to help get rid of the air bubbles. Hope that helps.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I suggested the Bondo mainly because any of the putties could be used they might require a huge amount of effort to get into the multitude of tiny holes. Aves would work, and I use it frequently, but it is extremely "thick" and would require forcing it into those tiny holes which would likely drive you up a wall. I thought of the CA approach but that would be rather tedious too and the CA hardens really hard. Because of that I was afraid during the sanding you might end up taking a lot of resin off around the CA without denting the CA too much. The Bondo if used immediately from the tube is reasonably liquidy and quickly squeegeeing it into the holes might be the easiest approach. It also will sand off much easier then the resin which should help prevent damaging the resin molding itself. It is possible Chinxy's approach might work but I wonder if it will not shrink inside the hole and leave a small depression there after drying. Just my rationale on why I thought of Bondo.

Bob K.


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## Antsnest (Jul 26, 2011)

Have a look at my suggestion here http://www.antsnest.net/Garage/Pinholes.php

Ant


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## Chinxy (May 23, 2003)

But Bob, that's why I use this stuff. With a brush it just pours right in the holes. It's easy and it's not expensive or hard to do. Just brush this stuff over it and it fills the holes. When I take Bolsa Foam and make a wall, stones, steps or what ever I brush this stuff over it and when it dries it's hard and I can paint over it. I swear by this stuff. And I have used it to fill holes like that before.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I will try all these suggestions, trust me I can't see running out of holes to test..lol
The bondo and the mod poge are talking to me, and I've tried thinned white glue and Mr surfacer so far. I'll let you know after the new primer coat dries

Steve


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## Gerry-Lynn (Mar 20, 2002)

*acrylic modeling paste...*

I recommend using Acrylic Modeling Paste. Water base - Any size of hole, and can be applied after and during painting. And no sanding needed if worked with quickly.

Gerry-Lynn

Just my one cent (deflation or inflation)


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

Never seen Bondo in a tube. Alot of folks I know swear by drywall compound, i.e. "mud". Looks like the area affected by the holes will be buried in dirt and/or sphagnum moss anyway.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm making decent progress, I'll have comparison pics as soon as the latest coat of primer dries. BT you are right about the foiliage covering a ton of sins, but I'm making this one with interchangeable heads, so the backs of the two will be visible at times.

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

This is before:
This is where I'm at now.









Steve


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## Tanis-uk (Jan 8, 2011)

getting there then, lots of good suggestions, cant realy add anything, but you do have my sympathy


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks Tanis, and thanks everybody for their suggestions!

I'm getting closer, and new pics will be up tonight. I was bugged that my Seaview stuff was running late, but "*Everything Dovetails For He Who Builds*"

Steve


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## Disco58 (Apr 10, 2011)

Steve -- I see no rhyme or reason why the caster would even let this go out the door. I'd rather risk a ding on my rep by saying "I don't have anything good enough to send" rather than sending this. that would definitely be a test of patience! You have my sympathies, and I wish you luck on you endeavor. 
Michael


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks, Michael!! yup, she's a bit scary. I'm learning lots about micro fillers and careful hand sanding.
I have about 98% of the holes filled. then I'll carefully try to re-introduce any lost detail.
The owner wants interchangeable heads, and I have the connections installed.

















I'd have sent this thing screaming right back to the seller. But the owner is not a builder, and so didn't know what to look for.








Steve


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

btbrush said:


> Never seen Bondo in a tube. Alot of folks I know swear by drywall compound, i.e. "mud". Looks like the area affected by the holes will be buried in dirt and/or sphagnum moss anyway.


Bondo is a brand name and they make a putty that comes in a tube. I think its called Red Glazing Putty


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

My biggest worry is the "stem" The heads both weigh 4.5 ounces or so, To do this right I really think I need to re-cast the stem in epoxy or resin with a wire armature.

Steve


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The stem isnt that great or complicated... I would bend one from wire and just sculpt it up with epoxy putty.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

That's not a bad idea!..I'll get ahold of the owner...Thanks!!

Steve


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## Disco58 (Apr 10, 2011)

djnick66 said:


> Bondo is a brand name and they make a putty that comes in a tube. I think its called Red Glazing Putty


That's something I was going to mention, but you beat me to it. When I first saw the suggestion of using "Bondo", I immediately thought of full on two part body putty, which is what the word _Bondo _means to those who do or have done body work. That stuff would definitely NOT be user friendly in this particular application. The red glazing putty is merely referred to as 'spot putty' by body shops, which is used for the minor scratches and pinholes (hint, hint) that remain after the 'Bondo' has been applied, set and sanded a couple times.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

We used to use a green scratch filler at the shop I worked at. Apply it and use the plastic squeegie to force it into the grinder and sanding scratches. It shrinks, so you have to apply it carefully. but in a modeling application, it should be fine.

Steve


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

Bondo red glazing putty is my primary filler for seams and such. It goes on easily, dries quickly, and is very easy to sand. I got the idea from Dan Jorgenson of Kitbuilders fame or infamy. It does seem that it has a bit of shrinkage and sometimes requires a second application after sanding the first layer. I also use Aves and it is great but I have a bit of difficulty when using very small amounts to get it to stick. It does not shrink and I have done a minor bit of sculpting using it as well. Bondo would not be useful for sculpting at all, it has almost no strength.

Bob K.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I ended up using squadron white and Mr. Surfacer and pushing it into the holes with my fingers. I used a little isopropyl to help smooth the filler out... Now I'm gently sanding the pimer coats/filler.

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm on my first sculpt of the stem, pics tomorrow.

Thanks guys, it's a lot easier then trying to cast the 'freakin thing.

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here are some pics:
































I'm almost on the home stretch

Steve


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

The coffee can is perfect!

Audrey II ain't bad either.


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## Chinxy (May 23, 2003)

WOW Steve, that looks like the real thing from the movie! Great Job!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks! I was really going nuts over the paint. Every pic I looked at seemed to have a different scheme.









The mouth parts go in after the gorilla glue dries









Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Mouth parts are on. The leaf shapes on top and bottom of the tongue are one of the missing parts I had to sculpt.

















Now the foilage...


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

That looks great and your painting is perfect as best I can tell, it certainly looks good. Homer better run, they look hungry. If you keep them on display in your planter visitors might begin to wonder about what you are growing.

Bob K.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks!, Client wants a few more mods, I'll have pics tonight..I hope...lol

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Steve


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Done!
























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Steve


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

It turned out very nicely and realistic, might even scare some of the guys visitors! I like the colors and the way you blended them, great job.


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