# Question regarding clear finishes and panel line washes



## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

Could use some advice. The model I'm currently building is painted with Tamiya gloss acrylic paints. I've just finished applying decals and plan on highlighting the panel lines with a wash, after which I will over coat the model with a clear flat coat. I know a lot of modelers use oil paints for washes on acrylics, but can a acrylic "sludge" wash be used too? Should I apply a clear coat first to protect the decals? Also, is it OK to use Testors Dullcoat (lacquer) as a clear coat, or will it damage the acrylic base coat? The few models I've done using weathering/clear coats have had lacquer or enamel base coats, so the acrylic base coat is new to me.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

'62,

If you overcoat your decals with Future (now called Pledge Floorcare Multi Surface Finish, for some strange reason), they'll be protected against any mishaps during the weathering process. Also, the clear coat will help blend them better into your paint job. I haven't heard of conflicts between Testors Dullcote and any weathering materials. But if you want to play it safe you can mix Tamiya Acrylic Flat Base X-21 with Future at a 50/50 ratio for a good flat water-based finish.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Or just buy Tamiya Clear Flat acrylic (they do make it, you know)


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

Thanks guys for the info. I take it you both prefer clear acrylic over acrylic paint, right? Also, I did see the Tamyia clear flat, XF-86, in a 10 ml bottle. Who carries the 10 ml bottles? Checked several on-line hobby shops, none carry it. Neither do local hobby shops. Unfortunately, clear flat is not available in the easy to find 23 ml bottles. Any suggestions regarding the panel wash?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Personally I dont like acrylic clears and do not use them. I use Testors Clear Flat Lacquer. It airbrushes well, dries instantly, and dries dead flat all of the time. Because you apply it thinly, and it dries instantly, its safe over any base paint.

I use artists oils and Weber's Turpenoid synthetic thinner for washes. You mention highlighting panel lines with a wash, but washes usually represent shadow. I often dont accentuate panel lines because, at least on, say, airplnes, they are not covered by fine black or brown lines. I pick out major panels or hinged things like doors or flaps, but not every single panel.

The larger size Tamiya jars are the standard ones. But for US sales they came out with the smaller jars. Not all colors are sold in the smaller jars, or at least not all are sold in the USA. Just buy a big jar. They are more economical anyway.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

spock62 said:


> Any suggestions regarding the panel wash?


62,

A formula that's often mentioned in _FineScale Modeler_ magazine is to thin an acrylic color slightly with water, then add a drop or two of dish soap; the soap breaks the surface tension of the wash so it will settle into panel lines. You slop this "sludge wash" over the details you want to emphasize and let it set up for an hour or so. Before the sludge wash has dried completely, rub it with a moist rag in the direction of the airflow for an airplane or the pull of gravity if you're weathering a land vehicle. By varying the amount of pressure on the rag, how wet you get it, the number of passes you make with it, you can get just the degree of weathering you want to achieve.

Of course, the color of paint you use will alter the effect of the wash as well. Browns work well for dirt, black looks like soot or oil stains, and so on. If you're weathering a dark finish, say the black paint of a night fighter, you can bring out the panel lines with a medium gray wash. Reptiles can be given that dry, dusty look by using a lighter wash in their scaly hides.

I'm with dj in my preference for Testors Dullcote. To reiterate an important point he made, several *light* coats will achieve a dead flat finish without harming almost any paint. The problems arise when Dullcote is applied too heavily, so be sure to let it dry completely (it only takes a few minutes under most conditions) before spraying another coat.


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

Thanks guys, you've both been a big help!


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