# 1/32 Track Build



## harmocy (Jan 11, 2007)

I want to build a 1/32 track for a hobby store I am trying to open and need help!!! Please I have never done this before and need resources!!!


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## rodstrguy (Feb 14, 2002)

Do a google search for "routed slot car track"... check the track building threads here and at "slotcarillustrated" and "homeracingworld" dot com...


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## harmocy (Jan 11, 2007)

Thanks have you built one??? I want peoples opinions on what to use and not too mostly by personal experiances as well thanks again for the info


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## rodstrguy (Feb 14, 2002)

I've built two 1/32 tracks using a bearing jig to cut the slots. I've used copper tape with small 12 volt batteries from fire alarm battery back-ups and also twelve volts from a computer power supply. Right now I am redoing one of the tracks and adding a banked curve and some squeeze sections...


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

Hi Harmocy!

There are a ton of ways to do a track and tons of options out there for anyone to choose from. As rodstrguy pointed out, one option or way is to do a wood routed track. If this plans to be a permanent layout, that is definitely the direction you would most likely want to head. A wood layout will not only give you a permanent layout, but the wear and tear on it will be far less than any of the plastic tracks. It will mean more time and potentially (up front) more money, but once its done, its minor maintenance and minimal up keep.

If you do not have the initial cash on hand, I've known of several people who have built a plastic layout on several sheets of 4x8 plywood tables and used that until they had the cash to build the wood routed track. It's a good, easy way to start, but definitely not ever a recommended way to keep going. As for the plastic track suggestions - there are several opinions that will vary depending upon personal preference. Scalextric, SCX, NINCO, Carrera, Artin, are some of the manufacturers out there that are available for use. Carrera will give you the lane spacing for both 1/32 and 1/24 cars, but not all manufacturer cars like the Carrera track - just like if you try to run Carrera cars on any of the other tracks, they are not very accepting of them. Regardless of which track you may pick, many that transition from a plastic to wood track will use whichever chosen brand to setup their wood track lane spacing as each track slightly varies. Scalextric and SCX are some tight lane spacing setups, while NINCO and of course Carrera are a bit more spacious.

I hope this helps a little. We are not too sure which direction you need to go or what help you are specifically looking for, so post up any and all questions and maybe we can help you out further.

Congrats on the new shop and good luck with your new venture into slot car racing!

PD2:thumbsup:


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## rodstrguy (Feb 14, 2002)

PD2 said:


> Hi Harmocy!
> 
> As rodstrguy pointed out, one option or way is to do a wood routed track. If this plans to be a permanent layout, that is definitely the direction you would most likely want to head. A wood layout will not only give you a permanent layout, but the wear and tear on it will be far less than any of the plastic tracks. It will mean more time and potentially (up front) more money, but once its done, its minor maintenance and minimal up keep.
> 
> ...


PD2, I actually disagree with the fact that wood is more expensive... If you were to buy one, yes. But building one is way cheaper than plastic. A 4 X 8 peice of 1/2" sheet of MDF goes for around $15 and makes a large amount of track if it is planned out right. I have a 3 lane track with an 18' straight that I have less than $70 invested in. I can and am changing it around right now so I can remove a piece to change up the layout. The one thing I have noticed most is the overbuilding of the frames most tracks are on, unless you plan to walk on your track, why are people using 4X4 legs and 2x4 framing? I will post some pics later tonight with some explainations of how I have done it...


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## harmocy (Jan 11, 2007)

Thanks for everyones input I am planning on a wood track so there is where we should start the questions i have is how do I keep the lane spacing correct and even and elevation changes and stuff like that best way to supply power and strips for the power


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## harmocy (Jan 11, 2007)

I am planning on 2x4 framing with plywood top with skirting all the way around mainly for ridgity but for looks and a place to stash stuff under it i also plan cut ins for marshalling locations around the track but the question i was thinking was what height should I make the base table remembering this will be a commercial track where people of all ages will be useing this and want to have the ability of spectators to watch for this is how pepole get the bug that we already have


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## rodstrguy (Feb 14, 2002)

Harmocy,

You are overbuilding the framing...waisting money by using plywood too. Please visit a commercial track or track website and look at how tracks are supported. Check out Lucky Bob's website... google it as I don't have the website. check his track pics...


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## harmocy (Jan 11, 2007)

What do you recomend for the framing???


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

rodstrguy said:


> PD2, I actually disagree with the fact that wood is more expensive... If you were to buy one, yes. But building one is way cheaper than plastic. A 4 X 8 peice of 1/2" sheet of MDF goes for around $15 and makes a large amount of track if it is planned out right. I have a 3 lane track with an 18' straight that I have less than $70 invested in. I can and am changing it around right now so I can remove a piece to change up the layout. The one thing I have noticed most is the overbuilding of the frames most tracks are on, unless you plan to walk on your track, why are people using 4X4 legs and 2x4 framing? I will post some pics later tonight with some explainations of how I have done it...


I too seem to think that some tables are over done as far as building goes. If you plan it right like you said the cost in supplies and materials will be far less in expense than plastic track.
I've never built one but it's something I plan to do eventually.

Good Luck and please keep us posted on the project.


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## PD2 (Feb 27, 2003)

rodstrguy said:


> PD2, I actually disagree with the fact that wood is more expensive... If you were to buy one, yes. But building one is way cheaper than plastic. A 4 X 8 peice of 1/2" sheet of MDF goes for around $15 and makes a large amount of track if it is planned out right. I have a 3 lane track with an 18' straight that I have less than $70 invested in. I can and am changing it around right now so I can remove a piece to change up the layout. The one thing I have noticed most is the overbuilding of the frames most tracks are on, unless you plan to walk on your track, why are people using 4X4 legs and 2x4 framing? I will post some pics later tonight with some explainations of how I have done it...


Rodstrguy,

I understand what you are talking about and know what you mean in terms of materials. But time is money and you don't just slap together a wood layout in a few hours. The commercial track that is wood near my place is a 4 lane, 155' (longest running lane) setup. It took nearly 6, 4x8 sections and is modular, for obvious reasons. I know that harmocy may not be looking to tackle a project like this, but from what I recall of the track owner recounting, it was more sweat equity into the track than material. So yes, you are right, material wise its nothing, but you will not have a track up and running within a day...and yes, I'm sure someone will challenge that and say that they can find 10+ guys that will do it. Great. We don't know the resources available to Harmocy and can only give an idea of the different complexities. A single 4x8 layout in wood could probably be done all within a day provided you spent the time upfront preparing.

Harmocy,

There are various sites out there that offer information on building wood tracks of various sizes and shapes. Just doing a quick Yahoo or Google search yeilded some of these:

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/WoodenTrack.html

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Tables.html

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Construction.html

http://www.slotcar.com/articals/track_building_and_repairing.htm

http://uk.geocities.com/slot_racing/trackbuild/index.htm

Plus, as rodstrguy mentioned, Slot Car Illustrated has a ton of 1/32 guys that have done tons of wood track layouts that are awesome - most of them have taking the time to explain how they built their track as well as spacing, routing bits, materials, etc.

Hope all of this has been helpful!

PD2:thumbsup:


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## rodstrguy (Feb 14, 2002)

Harmoncy, Sorry I did not get a chance last night to post pics... I use a trick from model Rail Roading. I built "L" girders with 1x2's with screws and glue for legs and supports. This is more than strong enough to support a track made of MDF. You could use MDF legs as well for a commercial type track that are basically two triangles, one with a hole for a bolt, the other with a slot to make it adjustable in hieght. 
As for build times, I have been trying out a few ways to make a track faster and better. I have been experimenting with using a table saw to cut straights instead of using a router. Makes faster and straighter straights... Two man job, but the fun is in sharing your hobby anyway.


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## harmocy (Jan 11, 2007)

Sweet thanks to everbody for their help I have alot to look over and will be doing my homework but keep it comming this is great to see so many inthusaist!!!


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## Jeff Van Stemp (Feb 3, 2009)

*Routed Track Building*

Hey, greetings from Canada and glad to hear that our hobby is still alive and new tracks are being built. I have built 2 routed tracks, and both worked very well and got lots of race miles on them. I am planning on building my 3rd track this summer. I am a carpenter by trade so I guess I have an unfair advantage. What is wrong with building 2x4 frames supported by 4x4's? Lumber is cheap right now (at least it is in Canada and I'm assuming it is in USA as well) and it makes for a strong base. Someone mentioned a table saw for the straight-aways. What I did was use a skilsaw against a straight-edge clamped to the surface. I routed the corners first to make sure that the straights led precisely into the corner. I race mostly 1/24 scratch built hard bodies. Our car width limit was always 3 1/4" and my lane spacing was 3 1/2" which makes for great tight action in the corners. I powered my tracks with a 12 volt car battery. I glued down braid for my first two tracks, but this time I am planning on using copper tape because it is much cheaper and you don't have to router a dado for the braid to lay flush. Depending on what you plan on racing and who is going to be racing, flat tracks are great - they make you drive. Don't make any corners too tight, it may seem at first to be a novelty, but may cause frustrating racing. Best wishes for your new club!


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## Jeff Van Stemp (Feb 3, 2009)

*New track being built*

Sorry if I missed something obvious, but where are you located? I was just assuming the mighty USA because most slot racers are from there. I am an American born Canadian. I was born in Wisconsin but have spent most of my life in Ontario. 
As far as track height goes, I made mine kitchen table height which is around 30". That way I figured we could set regular chairs up to it. Seemed to work for us. I wouldn't go any higher though.


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## 4.3 ZOOK (Dec 22, 2008)

http://www.oldslotracer.com/


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