# Yup. Another 350 Enterprise Thread...



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

And away we go:




























Couple thoughts: 

1. I'm pretty freaked out and not very confident after the Viper II paint fiasco.

2. I'm not even going to THINK about making the grid lines disappear.

3. I have the next 9 days off from work, and I hope to be well on my way after that point. But in the words of Lieutenant Gorman: "OK, I want this thing to go smooth and by the numbers."

Wish me luck, fellas.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Seems a shame to toss all those weathering decals away. I read the directions and you need to cut the big panels with an X-acto all around to get them to look good with the grid grooves, after they dry. 

An insane thought just occurred to me: Why not go ahead with a smooth version and make weathering/gridline decal combo sheets? Smooth surface=smooth decals. Two sets of gridline decals, one with weathering, one without. Not a complaint. Just an observation. A big thanks to Round 2 for the ultimate scifi model. It is most excellent!

(No flaming or mean words on my thread, please!) I don't want to start another gridline problem!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I have the Aztek Dummy paint mask set. Should eliminate many painting roadblocks.....

http://starshipmodeler.biz/shop/ind...se-original-series-windows-paint-mask-set.cfm


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## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

If you're not going to use the decals why not sell them I'm sure someone would be interested


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

The only advice i can offer is, take a deep breath......

Get as much reference as you can..........................

As Garbaron and Raytheon has said, you're not going to build a perfect model...so don't worry if you hit snags!....................

Test fit everything!........

Enjoy it! Have fun! It's only a hobby after all

Good luck

Rich


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

You did a great job of recovering the Viper. So, with that experience behind you, I believe you'll be able to do a great job on this.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> I have the Aztek Dummy paint mask set. Should eliminate many painting roadblocks.....
> 
> http://starshipmodeler.biz/shop/ind...se-original-series-windows-paint-mask-set.cfm


You just made your life a lot easier with that. Should be a breeze.:thumbsup:


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

There can never be too many 1/350 Enterprise threads.

Good luck with your build.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Kremin said:


> If you're not going to use the decals why not sell them I'm sure someone would be interested


Probably would just give them away. But I'm still undecided. They are quite beautiful. I'm more worried about how they perform with the regular insignia decals over the top. And, of course, "silvering". I'm the silvering king. 

I cannot believe no one took me up on the free Viper II paint masks from Aztek Dummy (and decal leftovers) Hmmm....Strange.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Things to deal with:

1. Paint color choices (I'm not too worried about perfect canon, but I want it to look somewhat good)

2. All the little troubles I've read about, ie: the clear hanger bay parts not fitting well and needing lots of trimming, the clear colored blinking light lenses not fitting right, spinning dome warpage. 

3. While washing the pylon supports, the water was a bit too hot and I warped them. I think they'll be OK... 

I'm going to keeps pictures to a minimum and wait for the final pics to show off. but I will, however, post pics of problems/learning experiences.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

crowe-t said:


> There can never be too many 1/350 Enterprise threads.
> 
> Good luck with your build.


Agreed! get it on, Kdaracal!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

whiskeyrat said:


> Agreed! get it on, Kdaracal!


Thanks, but I sat in front of my deluxe Enterprise all day today and didn't get a darn thing done! But enough about that. I'm thinking about painting the inside surfaces with light blocking paint, perhaps shiny Tamiya Bare Metal Silver. Then doing the standard gray primer/flat black for additional light blocking on the exterior.

I thought I could protect the inner window glue points by using the discarded opaque windows as a paint mask. Perfect shape, right? But then I thought, "That will just leave a bunch of bare plastic for light bleed-through"

Question:

How can I paint the inside surface, simultaneously keeping the edges and window glue points free for glue adhesion?

I've conquered this before with various methods-ie Liquid mask, very thin tape. But this one has me stumped.

Please give me some suggestions!

Thanks!

Kinley

I put an identical post in the Enterprise "sticky"...fyi


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

crowe-t said:


> There can never be too many 1/350 Enterprise threads.
> 
> Good luck with your build.


Yeah! I am collecting them all, especially to know where to start from, after all. :freak:

Good luck Kdaracal! Fingers crossed.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

OK. My plan of attack:

Since I need to deal with the lights virtually right from the start, I'll be painting the interior hull surfaces with Tamiya white primer, then with Tamiya bare metal silver for reflection. I'll be masking using various Tamiya tapes, the unused window sections to keep a good glue point for the permanent ones, and liquid mask for the hard to tape places. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I just sprayed the inside of my Klingon Battle Cruiser with Tamiya Silver Leaf. It is 100% totally opaque with even super bright LEDs. I didn't even use primer, just a couple light coats of paint for an even finish.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

djnick66 said:


> I just sprayed the inside of my Klingon Battle Cruiser with Tamiya Silver Leaf. It is 100% totally opaque with even super bright LEDs. I didn't even use primer, just a couple light coats of paint for an even finish.


Thanks!:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

As God is my witness, this took me all day...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Now I don't feel so bad I had a headache all of Monday...


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

KD, that bridge looks super! Would you please paint mine? LOL

Seriously, excellent job. Love following the build thread. Keep up the great work!

Sincerely,
MBZ.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, guys. I needed that!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I gotta write a little blog about this: Ignore if it's boring. Mostly writing to soothe my own self.

First, I decided to paint everything possible from the outside of the bridge "coin". I used some leftover Aztek Dummy masks from my flying sub. The reverse circles left from the engine exhausts. I masked everything but the center floor. Shot it with Tamiya gray primer under Kirk's chair. I also used tiny rectangles cut from the same sheet to mask the bridge screens.


For the inside details, I used an ultra fine tip Sharpie and a 3 haired paint brush. The Sharpie looked like I was going at it with a tree-stump! I used my most powerful magnifying glasses. :freak: 

I gotta say, if Lou put out a generic circle sheet, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. I cannot tell you how many times I wanted a perfect circle mask. Lou provides tons of extras and I always choose them over tape for the tiny stuff. They cut perfect with a razor.

I even used a glue stick cap to protect the painted circle. It fit snugly into the bottom groove, under the captain's chair.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal, you're a nut plain & simple. No one does that kind of detail if not paid to do it.

*images of Viper builds cross mind* 

Strike that.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> kdaracal, you're a nut plain & simple. No one does that kind of detail if not paid to do it.
> 
> *images of Viper builds cross mind*
> 
> Strike that.


:jest:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I am 56. I guess my hands would betrayed me if I tried such miniaturization. Is out of my limits.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I am 56. I guess my hands would betrayed me if I tried such miniaturization. Is out of my limits.


Stop, you're not even as old as Kirk in Star Trek IV.:thumbsup:


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Looking good sir.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Taped all up for interior light block painting:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Well, this took another whole day....But light block in place. I used tons of old black masking vinyl from all my leftover Aztek Dummies, regular yellow Tamiya tape, and a little liquid mask where needed.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I hate masking. :freak:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I hate masking. :freak:


Tedious but rewarding. I hope I didn't mask too much. I'll pay for it later. I could have really used a vinyl sheet of various circles, even ovals. Perhaps if I whine enough, Lou at Aztek Dummy will do a few sets of "specialty" masks.

:thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Close up of hull half with masking removed:


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

That should work out great, especially if you will be using Aztec Dummy's exterior masking templates.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

kdaracal said:


> Perhaps if I whine enough, Lou at Aztek Dummy will do a few sets of "specialty" masks.


Let us whine in chorus. Louuuu!!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Let us whine in chorus. Louuuu!!


Both my left over Ironman and flying sub mask sets had some leftover circles which I was able to use. Of course having some and running out early made it seem worse! Ha!

By the way, Lou's a great guy and has given me personal customer service with various issues on many occasions.

:wave:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice work so far. That bridge painiting... oye. Such a job!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I am 56. I guess my hands would betrayed me if I tried such miniaturization. Is out of my limits.


Me too. I have bifocal glasses with far sightedness and astigmatism (egg-shaped eyes that won't focus anywhere). But my wife bought me a cheap head strap style magnifier goggles. Just like these:

http://www.magnifyingglasses.co.uk/acatalog/HBL1 Illuminated Headband Magnifier 72dpi.jpg


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I have one of those, quite useful indeed. My problem when dealing with small things is my shaking hand. Man I sweat gallons when gluing and painting micro-things. :freak:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I will not bother to paint the inside of my kit silver. I will just mask off all the stuff outside, ONCE, and paint the ship silver before I paint it the overall body color. Works the same but is much quicker. I wound up doing that with parts on my Klingon cruiser.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

djnick66 said:


> I will not bother to paint the inside of my kit silver. I will just mask off all the stuff outside, ONCE, and paint the ship silver before I paint it the overall body color. Works the same but is much quicker. I wound up doing that with parts on my Klingon cruiser.


That makes total sense. Well, someone posted pictures with really bad light blow-through. (Otherwise beautiful build, though) Don't know who. That "sticky" thread is over 100 pages now. Guess I'd rather be safe than sorry. Only one chance at this. I'm taking every precaution I can think of.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

By the way, instead of using the extra windows as paint masks, I put the windows in place and drew pencil lines around the frame. This gave me primo places to mask off, while getting maximum light block coverage.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Yeah you do have to do something for light bleed, but IMHO it doesn't matter if you put the layer of paint inside our out. I just use it outside, as a primer of sorts. I primed the lower bulb part of my Klingon cruiser on the inside, and that worked fine. The upper bridge with the "eyes" got primed on the outside. Even with two bright LEDs right below the bridge, zero light comes through the plastic. Before it was painted, the whole thing would glow.

For the clear windows on the Enterprise, I think I would probably just use Micro Crystal Clear after the fact and not bother with the clear plastic parts.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _Before it was painted, the whole thing would glow._


:lol:



> _For the clear windows on the Enterprise, I think I would probably just use Micro Crystal Clear after the fact and not bother with the clear plastic parts._


I've heard the IPMS guys talk about this at meetings, but I have no clue of what the heck it is or how to apply. _*Google time........*_

OH! It's like the Testor's Canopy Glue! But does it work better? I have had little luck with the Testor's version...


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

MCC is fairly thick. It works fine. It's been a window making mainstay for 40 years. I had good luck with the Testors stuff in years past, but the last bottle I got is like water and is useless. You can tint MCC with transparent acrylic paint too, and if you want to seal it, a drop of Future or Tamiya Clear Gloss does the trick. I use it for stuff like the little windows on bombers all the time, and also to fill gauges on model car dash boards, etc.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I've used the Micro Crystal Clear stuff before but in my experience it wasn't great for holes as big as on the 1/350 E; They sink in the middle and end up looking more like dried white glue.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I have made good windows up to about 1/4" square. You can apply a second layer to thicken up areas. And let them dry flat with the outer surface facing down. MCC dries pretty clear and a coat of Future makes it even more "clear" The windows on the Enterprise are pretty small.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Been a long time since last post. Got a smidgen of work done this weekend, so far. Got some windows "steel wooled" and glue in place. I'm carefully looking at reference pics to see what windows are usually blacked out or colored. I think that one single neck window is surely orange. I'll be painting the inside surface of that one with clear turn signal amber. So far, no big hitches.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

double post....


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

This should help


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Gary7 said:


> This should help



Thanks! This is more detail than the reference art on the side of the box. :wave:


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

kdaracal said:


> Thanks! This is more detail than the reference art on the side of the box. :wave:


There is also a green window on the rear sides of the secondary hull behind the pylons.


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## modelmaker 2001 (Sep 6, 2007)

Can you show us where this green window is, Gary? Thanks!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Gary7 said:


> There is also a green window on the rear sides of the secondary hull behind the pylons.


Understood. I'll research this one, too. Anything to break up the monotony of the monochrome scheme.....


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

modelmaker 2001 said:


> Can you show us where this green window is, Gary? Thanks!


I'll see if I can find a photo.


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Green window....must be Spocks' quarters. :freak:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Green window....must be Spocks' quarters. :freak:


Hemoglobin based on copper, not iron. :tongue:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Hemoglobin based on copper, not iron. :tongue:


Is that even possible? Peer review study link, please.


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

It is in one of the threads and have seen it. Just have to find it....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple of pictures of my attempt at window blocking, coloring:



I used standard black electrical tape. For the "orange", I used a regular Sharpie:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Note how I went as far over the selected window's edge with the color and tape. 

Couple pics of the lower saucer:





Chugging along, little by little.....


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Workin' towards perfection...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Workin' towards perfection...


Thanks, Chris!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I find this sad-this whole bank of windows appear to be "turned off" according to the box artwork. This kit part is separate, so I'll probably use the blacked out plastic. So much unlit window area, though. Just a shame....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Now where the heck is that green window...hmmmm.....Google search--nuthin'...


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Kd, no worries of the black electrical tape eventually losing adhesion and falling off? I know some tapes warm up over time, and the glue gets tacky. Just curious if this could possibly happen, at least on the saucer top, where gravity could be a factor in later years. Could the tape glue adhesion react to the paint at all? 

Just asking, so you do not get the "aw damn!" look if it would ever happen. Your build is too sweet to be done in by simple electrical tape! Keep the great build going. As Spock would say....."Fascinating!".

Sincerely,
MBZ.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Kd, no worries of the black electrical tape eventually losing adhesion and falling off? I know some tapes warm up over time, and the glue gets tacky. Just curious if this could possibly happen, at least on the saucer top, where gravity could be a factor in later years. Could the tape glue adhesion react to the paint at all?
> 
> Just asking, so you do not get the "aw damn!" look if it would ever happen. Your build is too sweet to be done in by simple electrical tape! Keep the great build going. As Spock would say....."Fascinating!".
> 
> ...


I chose electrical hoping those bad qualities would not be an issue. But you're right. Perhaps some light structural reinforcement. I'll dab a little 2 part epoxy around some of those tape edges. I'll do a touch when I have it out and mixed at the light installation. I want to keep the overall weight down to keep her from getting saggy in her old age! :wave:


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I prefer the "paint on" electrical tape for the very reason that I worry about it falling off down the line. plus it makes a fantastic light block


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I prefer the "paint on" electrical tape for the very reason that I worry about it falling off down the line. plus it makes a fantastic light block


Thanks! I'll check it out...


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Any updates KD? Following the build enthusiastically!

MBZ. :wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

To heck with canon. I'm gonna *green* Sharpie one of those back rectangular rear windows. That just sounds too cool. So much dull gray all around. This will give it a little "POP", right?

Modelbuilderzero: My son of 14 has been building the old Revell Wolfman (horrible fitting model, BTW) all weekend and we got the airbrush going again. So I took a break from the old girl to help my little dude. Nice to see him off the Xbox and doing something with his hands/brains!! 

Plus I'm practicing on some new putty with Wolfy: Two Part Apoxie Clay. 50:50 mix, water soluble, (meaning you can smooth it with a wet finger to minimize sanding/detail loss), non toxic and not smelly. And it is workable up to two hours. And, in the boy's case, paintable before dry! (Kids now-a-days cannot wait for Jack Squat!) ha!


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## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

kdaracal said:


> I find this sad-this whole bank of windows appear to be "turned off" according to the box artwork. This kit part is separate, so I'll probably use the blacked out plastic. So much unlit window area, though. Just a shame....


Unfortunately, the 11 foot filming model had a "V" shaped metal retainer in there to hold the pylons for the nacelles, so that area couldn't be lit.

HOWEVER - even keeping the look of the model to match the production version - since you have the port side to work with, you could make some or all of the windows lit on the side that was never filmed...


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

kdaracal said:


> To heck with canon. I'm gonna *green* Sharpie one of those back rectangular rear windows. That just sounds too cool. So much dull gray all around. This will give it a little "POP", right?


I know I saw it some where, dang it. Or it may have been drug induced. :freak:


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Sometimes I think we can stretch canon a bit. I think I'll light a few of those dark windows just to give that area some life.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Window lighting is the ultimate in options. However, I agree with JIndy's suggestion above of keeping the right side to the way it looked on screen. That will go a long ways in achieving that certain indefinable "something" that makes it look like the on-screen version. As also suggested above, the left side could be lit a little more fully.


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

If I ever get the kit I'd do the windows on the un-filmed side like Matt Jefferies port-side drawing. I think the main differences in window patterns is the saucer:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for all the reference material, gentlemen. This is extremely welcome. And I agree:



> _..keeping the look of the model to match the production version - since you have the port side to work with, you could make some or all of the windows lit on the side that was never filmed.._


I will just modify the *green* window on the unseen side, only. But I'll make those pylon windows blacked out on both sides.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Well, after following the paper instructions AND the video 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPkmbDCQ2mg&feature=youtu.be 

Round 2 provided, my "neck" lights were an epic fail. I was meticulous and exact with all details, triple checking everything. I even switched polarity on all the light connections, thinking maybe black was positive. (I know that isn't right) But nuthin'!! I could just cuss. I also seated the plastic connectors down all the way, making it a pain to get back off.

After triple (or more) checking the simple instructions, I give up. They are truly simple, and I'm no dummy. It's gotta be a a bad board or bad wall plug. 

Anyone know of a way to test this stuff before I contact to R2?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

After rechecking all my connections, I went ahead and filled out a request for assistance form on the R2 site. Unfortunately, if it is a defective board or wall plug, I'll need to pay for it. I purchased the light kit many months ago and no longer have the receipt. 

No worries, though. Stuff happens and this model rocks my world, regardless. I have no problem supporting R2, especially if it is related to my short sightedness....Onward and upward!!:wave:


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> After rechecking all my connections, I went ahead and filled out a request for assistance form on the R2 site. Unfortunately, if it is a defective board or wall plug, I'll need to pay for it. I purchased the light kit many months ago and no longer have the receipt.
> 
> No worries, though. Stuff happens and this model rocks my world, regardless. I have no problem supporting R2, especially if it is related to my short sightedness....Onward and upward!!:wave:


Here is a suggestion FWIW if you need to troubleshoot the neck lighting circuit (see attached quickly drawn diagram based on the lighting kit instructions and examining the back of the PCB. Hopefully I have drawn it correctly):

Need a multimeter (cheap is fine like Harbor Freight) to measure DC volts or an LED tester (LED wired in series with 470 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor).

I have indicated the kit cable designations in circles and test points in squares. (+) for positive terminal/red wire and (-) for negative terminal/black wire).

Recommend test sequence:

1. Point A1(+) and A1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, power supply working.
2. Point B1(+) and A1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, B cable red wire good.
3. Point B1(+) and B1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, B cable black wire good.
4. Point J1(+) and B1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, J cable red wire good.
5. Point J1(+) and J1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, J cable black wire good.
6. Point G1(+) and J1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, Positive connection across board is good.
7. Point G1(+) and G1(-). If 12V on MM or LED lights, Negative connection across board is good.

This sequence can be taken out to point C2. Seems like it might help you find at what point you might have a bad wire or connection. Again just a suggestion if it seems useful.


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

KD,
Sorry to hear about the lighting woes. I feel for ya, dude. I'm not looking forward to my lighting when I start it either. The kit needs to be soldered and assembled to the board, and I'm hoping I don't fubar it up. My flashers and spinners, as well as marker lights will run off one 9v battery, and the LED towers and interior lights off another 9v. I'm thinking of assembling the lights in stages outside the kit, THEN working them in, so I don't fry an unreachable connection, or god forbid, drop a hot solder spill on a part and melt thru the ship!

Glad to hear the son is getting enthusiastic....keep the model builders blood flowing!

Best off luck, and I'll be watching the thread. Thanks again.
Sincerely,
MBZ.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Sparky said:


> Here is a suggestion FWIW if you need to troubleshoot the neck lighting circuit (see attached quickly drawn diagram based on the lighting kit instructions and examining the back of the PCB. Hopefully I have drawn it correctly):
> 
> Need a multimeter (cheap is fine like Harbor Freight) to measure DC volts or an LED tester (LED wired in series with 470 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor).
> 
> ...


Wow! I might need to talk to you further to help me understand this, but thank you!:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> KD,
> Sorry to hear about the lighting woes. I feel for ya, dude. I'm not looking forward to my lighting when I start it either. The kit needs to be soldered and assembled to the board, and I'm hoping I don't fubar it up. My flashers and spinners, as well as marker lights will run off one 9v battery, and the LED towers and interior lights off another 9v. I'm thinking of assembling the lights in stages outside the kit, THEN working them in, so I don't fry an unreachable connection, or god forbid, drop a hot solder spill on a part and melt thru the ship!
> 
> Glad to hear the son is getting enthusiastic....keep the model builders blood flowing!
> ...


Thanks, MBZ. I must say it was super simple to assemble and now that I've done one section, I can say it's going to be a piece of cake. I wish I had started sooner. The video made ALL the difference for me. Now I understand the actual "what to stick where" that the paper instructions just cannot show. Don't sweat it when your time comes. Totally plug-n-play and ingeniously designed for dum-dums like me. :tongue:


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

kdaracal said:


> Thanks, MBZ. I must say it was super simple to assemble and now that I've done one section, I can say it's going to be a piece of cake. I wish I had started sooner. The video made ALL the difference for me. Now I understand the actual "what to stick where" that the paper instructions just cannot show. Don't sweat it when your time comes. Totally plug-n-play and ingeniously designed for dum-dums like me. :tongue:


I wish mine was plug n play. Mine is wire and solder connections, try to follow vague diagrams or instructions. Well, at least the seller said I can contact with any questions. And I know my fellow builders on here with electronics skills will offer assistance if needed. That's why I love it here. Builders, helping fellow builders.:wave:

Sincerely,
MBZ.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> Wow! I might need to talk to you further to help me understand this, but thank you!:wave:


I've been where you are many a time and know your frustration. I will be happy to help you troubleshoot anyway I can. 

A broken wire, bad solder connection, reverse polarity connection, bad components, and even a short circuit can all be possible issues. 

Basic idea is to start at the root of the circuit (power supply) and incrementally work out to the ends of the branches verifying what is working correctly. When testing the power supply make sure to disconnect it from the rest of the circuit just in case there is a short circuit somewhere. 

A multimeter is nice to have when working with these circuits. They can be really cheap or expensive. I know Harbor Freight Tools has a few pretty inexpensive ones if looking for a cheap one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter

Can't say I've used one these probably OK for doing hobby work. Just a thought.

The lighting kit is really pretty nice but not being able to leave things alone I've been modifying mine quite a lot along the way.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Round 2 got back to me super-fast today and gave me some simple tests to perform to determine where my problem originates. I'll keep you all posted. Big thanks for quick response to my questions!


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Good luck KD. I hope it's something simple you can track down. I know I freaked when I was making the last assembly on my Galactica, and went to test the lights, and nothing worked! My heart sank! Luckily, it was a bad wire I tracked down and was able to replace.

Keep us posted, and fingers crossed for you!

Sincerely,
MBZ. :thumbsup:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _Luckily, it was a bad wire I tracked down and was able to replace._



The model gods were smiling on you that day, my friend!


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Ah, but the model gods eventually feel cheated, and exact a terrible revenge. Usually, it's that last small vital detail piece you drop on a deep pile carpet, or down a never seen before floor crack. :freak:

They have their ways, those devious gods of styrene!


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Any time I do a model with any sort of electrical/electronic stuff I will take the time to wire it all up outside the model for a test. Even if it means a lot of work putting it together and taking it all apart again. It's much easier to fix stuff (especially if you have limited knowledge of it like me) outside the model and ahead of time than to build all the lights and wiring into something, go to test it after the fact THEN find out something isn't right.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Ah, but the model gods eventually feel cheated, and exact a terrible revenge. Usually, it's that last small vital detail piece you drop on a deep pile carpet, or down a never seen before floor crack. :freak:


Been there done that.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Got the light problem figured out. here is the neck, done with lights.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Bravo!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Little blurry, but as you can see, I got the light bleed taken care of. I did the orange window with a little Orange Sharpie on the inside. I painted several light coats of Tamiya Gray Primer, then some Tamiya AS-19 blue, then a few final coats of Tamiya AS-2. I hope the bluish look shows through just a tiny bit. I like the neck being subtly blue/gray. I used the Aztek Dummy paint masks for the windows with great success. No surprises there. They are a must-have if you want to paint the hull very last.

The light issue was caused from the 3-M tape glue remaining on the bulb leads. You have to gently scrape it off to make a good contact. Turns out the board was fine. I used 5 minute epoxy to secure the lights and wires in place and I tested the light function at every step! Once you glue it together, that's your last chance!!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Bravo!


Thanks, man. This took all day, including a visit to my local TV repair shop for crying out loud!


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Looking great KD. Superb build! :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Looking great KD. Superb build! :thumbsup:


Slow going. I wish I could knock 'um out like steve123.......That thing is beautiful! And he lit the nacelles!! That's really effective.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

On the non-filmed side of _my_ build, I had some wires intrude on the windows slightly. But it's kind of a blessing in disguise. The lit windows look like real "rooms", with stuff showing through. Vague and dim enough to look cool. Luckily the 'filmed' side is pretty clear.


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Great thread! God bless you, Trekkriffic and others pioneers for showing us the way. :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Great thread! God bless you, Trekkriffic and others pioneers for showing us the way. :thumbsup:


Yea, but don't take my advice too seriously. 

*Stumblin', bumblin', fumblin'!*


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

KD, your build is going great, and I love the updates. Gives me ideas for when I start my big E.

Sincerely,
MBZ.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

One huge drawback of lighting with clear windows: it's going to look awesome lit.
But when the power is off, it's going to look nothing like the filming mini. This makes me want to do an unlit version because it will look "right" 100% of the time.

Wow. What a revelation. **sigh**


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> One huge drawback of lighting with clear windows: it's going to look awesome lit.
> But when the power is off, it's going to look nothing like the filming mini. This makes me want to do an unlit version because it will look "right" 100% of the time.
> 
> Wow. What a revelation. **sigh**


An artist's dilemma. My latest Refit & K'Tinga works will be no-lighting, always cool paint jobs.:thumbsup:


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Well, wouldn't it look strange without windows lit up, and the engine lights rotating and marker/beacon lights flashing?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

kdaracal said:


> But when the power is off, it's going to look nothing like the filming mini.


You have a point. With white windows, the model might look better unlit (than if we had used clear windows), but it might still look awesome lit ... if the lights were placed closer to the windows to make them brighter. 

But then there may be inconsistencies between primary/secondary/neck windows due to different light-to-window distances. Hm. More testing, less talking.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

SteveR said:


> You have a point. With white windows, the model might look better unlit (than if we had used clear windows), but it might still look awesome lit ... if the lights were placed closer to the windows to make them brighter.
> 
> But then there may be inconsistencies between primary/secondary/neck windows due to different light-to-window distances. Hm. More testing, less talking.


I'm with you. I'm yapping too much. On to building!


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## RobertAustin (Jun 12, 2013)

kdaracal said:


> Well, this took another whole day....But light block in place. I used tons of old black masking vinyl from all my leftover Aztek Dummies, regular yellow Tamiya tape, and a little liquid mask where needed.


Looks nice. Even I would love to make it so can please elaborate the procedure? I hope for positive reply:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

RobertAustin said:


> Looks nice. Even I would love to make it so can please elaborate the procedure? I hope for positive reply:thumbsup::thumbsup:


I wanted to block the light bulbs from shining through the plastic and have reflective paint to bounce the light around more efficiently. So I sprayed the inside surfaces of the whole model with a silvery enamel. I masked off the places where the clear parts attach because styrene glue doesn't stick to paint, I cut 
small pieces of masking tape and placed them where the pieces attach.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Little bit more done yesterday:

I got the exterior bridge painted and lights installed. I did not know these little clear red pieces (#124 x 2)were supposed to stick out so far, but it looks good:



These little sink wells are a small problem because paint does not cover well here, so I had to take care to do more light blocking with more coats of paint:



*more.........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Upper hull light test: (Red arrows indicate where I used extra window pieces that I used as paint masks. I'll be finishing these with the white windows later.)



Bridge light test:



*Hopefully more done this weekend....*

:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Niiiice work.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Niiiice work.


Thanks!


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

Awesome work.I look forward to seeing the finished bridge.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

BOXIE said:


> Awesome work.I look forward to seeing the finished bridge.


Thanks, Boxie! Me too!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Fly Poo*

Have you ever had the privilege of watching a common house fly land on a, say, white desk at which you were working? And then have that fly defecate on said white desk? Well, before Griff bands me, I'll get to the point. Those little flies can doo-doo out a tiny, perfectly round little, black mess. It is truly miniscule in size, but very much there. And perfectly round. 

Anyhoo.........I've only seen this once in my life. Thank goodness. But I need to say my Aztek Dummy paint masks for the tiny (and I mean tiny) windows on the lower saucer and rim are just about the same size vinyl dots as that fly poop. 

Now, I'm not comparing Aztek Dummy black paint masks to poop. On the contrary, they are wonderful and, IMO, essential for this build. I have no idea how Lou can cut those tiny, perfect round dots out and have them be usable. But they ARE!! I once again highly recommend Lou's masks for this build. They are so cheap and so important!! (at least to my build). 

Here are some pictures:





Remember, I have the camera set to Macro, these are some tiny windows. And kudos to Round 2 for such precision that these windows are there and are not covered in flash. 

Wow, this is a fun build. And a quick promise to Griff: I'll never talk about fly poo again on this forum. It is now out of my system!!

:tongue::wave::tongue:


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

I love that bridge lighting test pic! KD, it's coming along great...absolutely marvelous.

Thanks for sharing, and keeping us posted!

sincerely,
MBZ.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> I have no idea how Lou can cut those tiny, perfect round dots out and have them be usable.


Lou has access to CMDF technology...:thumbsup:


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> Have you ever had the privilege of watching a common house fly land on a, say, white desk at which you were working? And then have that fly defecate on said white desk? Well, before Griff bands me, I'll get to the point. Those little flies can doo-doo out a tiny, perfectly round little, black mess. It is truly miniscule in size, but very much there. And perfectly round.



Isn't fly poop sort of inherently redundant?

Sorry, back on-track. Nice work!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

No need for pictures, but got a lot done today. Getting ready to close up the primary hull and touch-up paint tomorrow. Just having a blast getting so much done and having good luck with the somewhat tricky lighting. More on that later if anyone is interested.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

TrekFX said:


> Isn't fly poop sort of inherently redundant?
> 
> Sorry, back on-track. Nice work!


:lol:


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Always interested! Can't wait to see and hear more build details!

MBZ.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple quickie pics from today's progress:

Darker gray color for impulse engines- 





I used Testor's Aggressor Gray for these engine parts.

After installing photo etch and spray-painting this, I colored the clear plastic part red, with a simple Sharpie marker. Not canon, but I like it when lit:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I got lots more done but no real reason to post pics. Just hit the wiring with some 2-part epoxy and some detail work.....

*more later *


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Finally got the upper and lower hull together and drying....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I love Irwin rubber tipped clamps! They are a life saver...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Well, I'm heading out to visit family in Missouri. A long, hot drive. But I managed to get the neck wires fed through and all top details in place. I also got all the Aztek Dummy masks off the upper hull and neck.. Right now, I am letting the Pledge Future dry on the bridge dome part #103. I hope to get that on before I bug out. 

I used the white lower sensor dome and the light comes through that really nice. If I can fit it in, I'll post some light tests before I go, but if not....

*More in 2 weeks..... *


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> *More in 2 weeks..... *


Just like in the old days of TV...:freak:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Just like in the old days of TV...:freak:


Ok, so now for your buffering/viewing pleasure: A technically perfect video of the hull lights running, filmed in my private studio. AKA the laundry room. Enjoy all 1:51 minutes of it!



*Peace out..........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

With all seriousness set aside, check out that super-clear upper dome, baby! That is the work of simply dipping the whole thing in a puddle of Pledge Future and letting it dry thoroughly. It removes all the tiny scrapes from shipping and makes it more "touchable". I also like how the white plastic panels and lower sensor dome looks, when lit. 

Man, this model goes together _good.... _


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Impressive. Most impressive. Indeed you are powerful as the Jefferies has forseen.

Gotta get me some Future...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Primary hull decal applications and musings:

I meticulously taped off the areas to be decaled so as to sand them ultra glass smooth. Then I made a color copy of the decal sheet so I could have something to cut out and "mock" placement.








*More.........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

But I got into a hurry and forgot to coat the areas with gloss coat, so they STILL silvered pretty bad.





*More..........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple of frustrations: despite my efforts, I still got tons of "silvering" on the decals. Also, the instruction sheet did not match the illustrations. So use caution when placing those tiny gray and yellow decals on the lower hull half. Lastly, those same decals had microscopic words. So use caution to make sure they are not placed upside down. The words on clear film will be basakwards.

Ok. One more. Plastic detail indentions on back of bridge area don't measure the same as the decal that covers them. Strange and annoying. Oh well.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I hate the dumb little details...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I hate the dumb little details...


Don't get me wrong, Chris. This is a superbly engineered kit. I think the best of all worlds will be some fine person who uses Lou's Aztek masks to paint all the insignia on. That will be a beautiful girl!:thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Short of using a micrometer, I got these looking pretty good. 

*In the right light, you can't even see the silvering!!​*


This is one good thing about the grid lines. Easy to line up decals! I used the big photo from the box..............

Thanks for looking!

:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Lined up flawlessly!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Lined up flawlessly!


Those are words well-received and needed, Chris! This has been a real labor....pain


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> This has been a real labor....pain


Birthing ships is not easy...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Birthing ships is not easy...


I could keep that pun going, but I've decided to abort it now....:tongue:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

So back off the puns here, great work!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Question has me stumped:*

OK. Here is an important question that has me stumped:

I will be lighting my Enterprise with the Round 2 kit. But I wish to display my hanger bay *closed*, and still light the rear landing lights using clear part # 28, painted appropriately.


I figured I could just install part # 26A (closed hanger doors) and paint/install clear part # 28. This will bypass having to mess with the rest of the hanger walls/assembly. And I can build the shuttle hanger for a fun side display outside of the hull as a separate model.

Here's my question:
Can this be done? I tried to test-fit the two parts and it appears that the clam shell door part # 26A NEEDS the other interior hanger parts to have something to glue to! I know folks have done this similarly (*closed doors-landing lights lit*) but the instructions are no help! Any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Here are some reference pictures:





With the Aztek paint mask set, the painting of the clear part is a piece of cake. I just cannot figure out how to install these two parts without using the rest of the hanger room assembly, that I want to use as a separate model.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _Tape the whole shuttle assembly together,on the shuttlebay parts 21,22,23,24 &25 the rear section where clamshell is connected to shuttlebay walls trace that pattern onto some styreen sheet from top to the floor of shuttlebay. then also do the same for part 22 the shuttlebay floor this will give you something to attach the clamshell together should also be very easy to light all windows near shuttlebay._


OK, here's my solution:

But I had to destroy my bay floor to make it happen. I thought there was a clear floor, but I was wrong. I used thick sheet styrene behind the clamshell instead of the whole bay. I butchered it up pretty bad, but it will not show. 

Now I'll be able to light the part # 28 clear and have closed shell doors. This took me all day with lots of fine tuning to get it to fit snug. Thanks to tony1tech for his idea.

Here are some pics:

(Notice the black mask)



I do not want to light the upper docking light, just the lower lights.

I'll be nipping off a spare white window to place in the area that has the black mask. This will set off the unlit light a little bit.



Sad to hack up the shuttle bay floor.



*More........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I cut up the floor like that to get more light to splash around inside this area. The exterior rear hull area is notoriously hard to light. The windows on the sides of the bay always turn out dim. 

Here is my take on the mysterious green window. I never did find out exactly where the green window was supposed to be placed, but I wanted it really bad. So I used a regular green Sharpie marker on the inside of this window:



Thanks for looking!
:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I contacted Round 2 about the option to have closed hanger doors, with no hanger bay. They talked to their engineers and got back to me right away. They apologized for not having engineered that option in, but I told them no worries on such an excellently designed & tooled kit. They suggested a similar idea that tony1tech suggested. Perhaps I'll order part # 22 (hanger floor) for a future mini diorama to be displayed outside the model.....

Big thanks to Round 2 for amazing customer service!! 

What a day we live in when we can actually converse issues with a model company.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Got tons done today! Lighting installed in the secondary hull, and some detail painting on the hanger bay assembly. Pics to come.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Ok, I'm gonna give this upper light a try. Here is my idea. It has a duel light purpose. It lights the small rear dome, too.



I'm getting quicker at this light installation. It's easy once you know which way to put the connectors together!



Exterior light shot with no exterior paint. Lots of light blow-through---



*More.........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Here's another angle:



Thanks again to tony1tech for the courage to light this area....


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I learned several things today. Small but important to my build. Mostly not to be too afraid to go for certain things. 

Additionally, Round 2 thought of so many extras and options. Really too many options. But they are there, nevertheless. The clear colored parts open up so many possibilities. I'm going to end up with whole sprues of unused plastic. 

Thanks for tuning in. I'm heading to my Fantasy Modelers Club in SF tomorrow. I've got a lot for the display table!

:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey kdaracal!!

You are having so much fun, uh?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey kdaracal!!
> 
> You are having so much fun, uh?


Yep! This is a great model to sink your teeth in. I'm considering having the nacelle seam and secondary hull seam work commissioned out. I really want to have a "no seam" situation on those areas. 

I just don't have the *skills*, man!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Quick update: I sent away for part # 22 (hanger floor) and another set of decals due to my own mistakes/modifications. I included a check for the appropriate amount. Very quick easy process and hopefully they'll have the parts in stock.

I really hope to build the hanger as a separate model with that floor and correct my decal silvering. 

:wave:


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

They are selling miscellaneous replacement parts? I wish they sold the optional clear parts separately.

Grrr! 

MBZ.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> They are selling miscellaneous replacement parts? I wish they sold the optional clear parts separately.
> 
> Grrr!
> 
> MBZ.


Well, if whatever part has a manufacture defect, they'll replace it for free with their form and cut UPC code from box. 

But, in my case, I do not have any issues that were their fault. I cut up my hanger deck floor for a modification but I wish to have another "floor" piece to build my hanger bay as a seperate model. And I also screwed up my decals and want another shot at it. (Not Round 2's fault, either) 

So they have an option on their downloadable PDF parts replacement form on how to pay for parts/decals/instruction sheets.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> They are selling miscellaneous replacement parts? I wish they sold the optional clear parts separately.
> 
> Grrr!
> 
> MBZ.


Here is the link to the form that you can print and send in:

http://www.round2models.com/files/replacement-request.pdf


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Getting a tiny bit done:



I'm using the specific masking from Aztek Dummy to perfectly mask off the fantail hangar bay lights. I'm still doing research, trying to find out the colors that are to be painted. Looks like (starting from left to right)

*RED - WHITE - GREEN - RED - GREEN*
or
*RED - WHITE - WHITE - YELLOW - GREEN*

Does anyone know for sure?:freak:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Quoting TREKKRIFFIC:



> _The long horizontal slot in the center is green. The horizontal slots flanking it are red. The two vertical slots are amber yellow._


Thank you, sir!!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

One more coat of AS 2 on the fantail area, then I'll remove the positive masks and use the negative mask to help keep the various chosen Sharpie colors neat and tight:



Yep, I'll use:

RED YELLOW GREEN YELLOW RED

thanks again TREKKRIFFIC!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I love it when a day's work comes together:



:woohoo:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Getting tons of misc/detail parts painted appropriate colors (Well, my *INTERPRETATION* of colors, anyway!)


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Quick pic of today's progress........



:wave:


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Hey kdaracal! I responded to your PM. 

Here's the article I mentioned about the sequence for the colored bulbs in the original Enterprise's bussards: 


IMG_4950 by trekriffic, on Flickr

You may find it useful... or not.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Hey kdaracal! I responded to your PM.
> 
> Here's the article I mentioned about the sequence for the colored bulbs in the original Enterprise's bussards:
> 
> ...


Thanks, Trekkriffic! And I love the continued thread of your current build, as well!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple of shots before bed:





I wanted to show these two. I'm really loving the quality and attention to detail that Round 2 has shown. Especially the "Christmas lights". Nice touch. 

The rear nacelles are done in Testor's aircraft gray and Tamiya white primer for the round domes. (Exhaust ports?) Fit is glove like and glued from behind after dry fit. No glue squishing out on the finished surfaces.

Bulb mounting pins needed shortening so LED unit would fit tight.

:wave:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Went to great lengths to mask off those little nibs on the outer bussard domes:



Then I used super fine steel wool to frost inner side of outer domes, then sprayed both sets of domes with Testor's dullcoat after putting black masks on the inner domes from Aztek Dummy:



*More.....*


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Quick-n-noisy video of the domes in action!!



Optical illusion from the video makes them look like they are spinning in the wrong direction. Weird.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Not perfect, but meh. Pretty good IMO! I feel like Scotty.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Finally got the sound card working. I forgot they included it in the later runs of the kit:



:tongue:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

You know I'm just fooling on the last post, right? Awesome sound effects from my iPhone Star Trek app....


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Ok, no more jokes. My brother turned me on to this Wiki link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_W._Bussard

_*I never knew.....*_


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Cool...


----------



## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

Looking great please keep those pics coming:thumbsup:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, guys!


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

kdaracal said:


> Ok, no more jokes. My brother turned me on to this Wiki link:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_W._Bussard
> 
> _*I never knew.....*_


Nor did I. Thanks pal. :thumbsup:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Today, I'm going to try to figure out the best way to glue and attack those nacelle and secondary hull seams. I really want them to to sand away totally bye-bye. I'm weak at that.


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> Today, I'm going to try to figure out the best way to glue and attack those nacelle and secondary hull seams. I really want them to to sand away totally bye-bye. I'm weak at that.


Do you have a good seam scraper? Sometimes that works on it's own. It at least gets the two halves even with each other so all you have to do is fil any gaps. Otherwise I like Tamiya Basic polyester putty to even up any uneveness; Bondo red spot putty is basically the same but I've never used it and can't say if it woudl shrink on you. PPP would work too and doesn't shrink. Just make sure and sand across the seam rather than with it. And you want to be careful and not sand off too much or you'll have flat spots. Took me about three sessions of puttying, sanding, and priming before I was satisfied with those seams. Forgive me if you already knew all this.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Do you have a good seam scraper? Sometimes that works on it's own. It at least gets the two halves even with each other so all you have to do is fil any gaps. Otherwise I like Tamiya Basic polyester putty to even up any uneveness; Bondo red spot putty is basically the same but I've never used it and can't say if it woudl shrink on you. PPP would work too and doesn't shrink. Just make sure and sand across the seam rather than with it. And you want to be careful and not sand off too much or you'll have flat spots. Took me about three sessions of puttying, sanding, and priming before I was satisfied with those seams. Forgive me if you already knew all this.


Thank you! Never saw a seam scraper though. What does it look like? Where does one buy it? Do you have a web link?


----------



## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> Thank you! Never saw a seam scraper though. What does it look like? Where does one but it? Do you have a web link?


http://bit.ly/14Ju09e

Sorry couldn't resist


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

jgoldsack said:


> http://bit.ly/14Ju09e
> 
> Sorry couldn't resist


Seam scrapers work especially well if you use plenty of Testors tube glue and clamp the parts together really tight so a little of the glue squeezes out all along the seam making sure the parts are well aligned. Let it get good and dry and run the scraper along the seam to remove the glue residue and even up any misaligned spots; hopefully you won't have too many of those. Then hit it with some sandpaper, prime, putty any remaining gaps or divots, sand, prime, and repeat as needed. Once you get the hang of it you shouldn't need to do too much filling and sanding.

Here's one on eBay from Squadron. It's the one I use. I've gotten a ton of use out of it over the years:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/290771910537?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

kdaracal said:


> Today, I'm going to try to figure out the best way to glue and attack those nacelle and secondary hull seams. I really want them to to sand away totally bye-bye. I'm weak at that.


Would it make sense to slip a few short lengths of ABS pipe over each nacelle as the glue sets to make sure the halves are aligned? (with wax paper between, maybe)

The pipe would be of two different diameters because of the nacelle taper ... not sure if the right sizes could be found.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Actually, they go together pretty well. I used a combo of Testor's liquid and a smear of thin CA glue to really make a tight seam. Then I seam-scraped the worse parts and then spent the last 4 hours sanding with coarse to ultra fine sand paper with this:

*http://www.flex-i-file.com/flex-i-file.php*

First test primer going on tomorrow...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

As it stands now, I can run my fingernail perpendicularly over most of the nacelle seam and it won't catch on the misalignments. 

That's a *good* sign, right?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> As it stands now, I can run my fingernail perpendicularly over most of the nacelle seam and it won't catch on the misalignments.
> 
> That's a *good* sign, right?


Yes. Any uneveness you can feel with your finger will cerainly show up in primer; still, I can't count the number of times I've thought something felt perfectly smooth only to find out otherwise after priming.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> I can't count the number of times I've thought something felt perfectly smooth only to find out otherwise after priming.


I would accept that as an axiom.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Not perfectly smooth, but closest I've ever gotten:


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## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

Seam? What seam? Looks great to me


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nova Mike said:


> Seam? What seam? Looks great to me


Yes. It looks great, at least in the photo.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, guys. I have a little lumping of putty and other small issues but overall, that's probably on of 2 (2) nacelles) sides that are "flawless' and the other two are close.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Looking GOOD.:thumbsup:


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

KD, that seamless seam is fantastic! Looks like one solid tube. Great work! Keep it going! Bravo!!

MBZ.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Looks good to me! :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks again everyone. Hope to have some real nacelle assembly/finishing happening this week. I'm at that point where it just all comes together. More pics to come


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

In an effort to halt the cycle of decal "silvering", I meticulously marked off the nacelle decal placement area, sprayed several light coats of Testor's gloss coat, and I will then be using the 2-part Micromark decal finishing system. If this doesn't kill my problem, I'll probably give up!! I can live with a little decal shine....

*.....(Because I'm going to check myself into a padded room and let them give me a purple crayon to write with, between my toes) *


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I have a method of guaranteeing no silvering... I bought a set of paint masks!

:jest:


----------



## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> I have a method of guaranteeing no silvering... I bought a set of paint masks!
> 
> :jest:


That is what I am going to be doing as well.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> I have a method of guaranteeing no silvering... I bought a set of paint masks!
> 
> :jest:


Rockin'!!!!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

jgoldsack said:


> That is what I am going to be doing as well.


I have to wonder about mask placement. I know you can use soapy water to slide permanent vinyl like those orange pieces from TSDS that I used on my LiS Pod model. Can you slip wet vinyl masks in perfect place and allow them to dry before painting??


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> I have to wonder about mask placement. I know you can use soapy water to slide permanent vinyl like those orange pieces from TSDS that I used on my LiS Pod model. Can you slip wet vinyl masks in perfect place and allow them to dry before painting??


I don't know about Mr Sack but for the long pennants on the nacelles and secondary hull I think I can lay Tamiya tape down on the top and bottom outer margins of the masks and use the tape as a guide to place the masks in the right position right off the bat. For the saucer I can use the penciled gridlines to guide me; they're faint but visible enough for me to barely see them. I don't plan on using soap and water based on what i've seen in the tutorial videos posted by Orbital Drydocks on Youtube. I may do one thing though and that would be to brush Future along the edges of the masks to get a really good seal before airbrushing with enamels.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> I don't know about Mr Sack but for the long pennants on the nacelles and secondary hull I think I can lay Tamiya tape down on the top and bottom outer margins of the masks and use the tape as a guide to place the masks in the right position right off the bat. For the saucer I can use the penciled gridlines to guide me; they're faint but visible enough for me to barely see them. I don't plan on using soap and water based on what i've seen in the tutorial videos posted by Orbital Drydocks on Youtube. I may do one thing though and that would be to brush Future along the edges of the masks to get a really good seal before airbrushing with enamels.


I also wonder if you can "burnish" the edges with a wooden tool....All my dealings with Lou's masks, I find that they really seal super-nice and tight. 

But those little letters. You must not stretch them if you can keep from it. I just can't get my head around that part. Getting perfect placement without being able to slide them around.  

I'll look up that tutorial on YouTube...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Self proclaimed "King of Silvering" has left the kingdom!!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

You can still see some clear film, but it's pretty much silver-free.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic, I watched that video. Looks to be a completely different mask product than I thought it was. Very cool, and thanks for sharing that!! I wish you the best of luck. The video results were amazing~


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> Trekkriffic, I watched that video. Looks to be a completely different mask product than I thought it was. Very cool, and thanks for sharing that!! I wish you the best of luck. The video results were amazing~


Yeah. And there's also a video review by Trekworks too where he notes that Orbital Drydocks is now attaching the transfer paper to the vinyl for you. With the transfer paper in place I don't see how you could stretch the letters out of shape during placement unless you were really clumsy which, thankfully, I'm not... at least when it comes to models... don't ask about sports!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Yeah. And there's also a video review by Trekworks too where he notes that Orbital Drydocks is now attaching the transfer paper to the vinyl for you. With the transfer paper in place I don't see how you could stretch the letters out of shape during placement unless you were really clumsy which, thankfully, I'm not... at least when it comes to models... don't ask about sports!


For some reason, I thought it was more of the traditional black vinyl masks that had to be positioned, well, traditionally. I still think you can use soapy water to "slime up" those standard laser-cut masks, and allow them to dry, then masking off the rest of the area to protect it from paint. Hmmm....

In any case, can't wait to see your painted insignia!:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I glued the nacelle motors in place with Testor's canopy glue (Basically thin Elmer's school glue) so I could remove them easily if need be for service. I tested the dang thing 9 ways to Sunday before I committed to glue. Big thanks to [email protected] for the advice. 

I bought some shrink tubing at Radio shack, fancy colored ones. The Shack staff said a regular hair dryer would be hot enough. They were wrong. I ended up blowing 2 dryers' on-board plug fuses trying to get the shrink tubes to shrink. Later, BOTH hair dryers STILL will not start, even though the plug fuse has been reset. I think modern dryers have an internal safety shut-off when they over heat and will work after they cool. 

*God help me if I've ruined both of my wife's dryers.*

I hope they begin to work before my wife finds out....

Nonchalant trip to Target, tonight, *....**nervously whistling as I go out the door...***


----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Yeah, I've never found hair dryers hot enough for heat shrink tubing. I have a heat gun and that works great (on low setting, waving constantly so not to burn)


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

AT.Hough said:


> can any one please tell me how i can post some thing on this site other then doing it this way. ?


I think you should have posted this in the Model Swap & Sell subforum. Could the moderator please move this? It doesn't belong in this thread.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> Yeah, I've never found hair dryers hot enough for heat shrink tubing. I have a heat gun and that works great (on low setting, waving constantly so not to burn)


I have a Bernzomatic pencil torch. It runs on butane. Sure does the trick with shrink tubing. And it has a tip you screw in for soldering too. Highly recommended.


----------



## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

Heat gun is the way to go. They are not expensive. See: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...at gun&sprefix=heat+g,aps&rh=i:aps,k:heat gun


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Had an opportunity to display the lighted but unfinished kit at my local IPMS chapter last night. Had a couple folks really like it.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I had to display my stuff off to the side so I could have a power outlet. It was quite a challenge to do a temporary set-up for a couple hours. I used a small $2 plug switch so it did not have to sit there and noisily run the whole time. Unfortunately, I had to put it up off to the side by the coffee pot. So I didn't get much "air time". But the few folks who came over to my side of the room really liked it.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple more pics of tonight's progress:

I used the black windows for the nacelle supports:



Took advantage of the photo etch:



These are my worst warpage areas, but the Round 2 website said this can be easily fixed by using heavy books after gluing:




*more.........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I substituted this little _non-lit_ light from some leftover clear green sprue. The proper part is part # 139 (clear). The instructions say to paint it green for the starboard, red for the port. When you purchase the light kit, Round 2 provides several duplicate sprues molded in clear red, green, amber, and blue. Strangely enough, part # 139 is only found in clear and does not exist on the bonus colored sprues. But plenty of other unused greens and reds are left, so I cut a tiny dome to fit. 



*More..........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

To glue down the Bussard dome light/motor assemblies, I used Testor's Canopy glue. This is so I can remove and service the motors/lights if need be. (breakaway glue) Notice how the teeth on this part interlocks:



Thanks for looking!
:wave:


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

kdaracal, Excellent work so far! Everything looks perfect.

BTW, what paint/color did you use on the hull?


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

kdaracal said:


> Couple more pics of tonight's progress:
> 
> I used the black windows for the nacelle supports:
> 
> ...


I had better luck with strong clamps then the heavy book thing. I did one of each and for the ones under the heavy books I ended up having to pry them apart and do it again as they still had a slight warp.


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> I had better luck with strong clamps then the heavy book thing. I did one of each and for the ones under the heavy books I ended up having to pry them apart and do it again as they still had a slight warp.


Serendipity for sure but my pylons flattened out nicely just from having left them laying flat in the warm sun on my worktable for a few weeks.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

All excellent ideas, gentlemen. I'll probably do a combo of all these, with Super Glue mixed in with normal Testor's to speed it up.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

crowe-t said:


> kdaracal, Excellent work so far! Everything looks perfect.
> 
> BTW, what paint/color did you use on the hull?


I used the box-recommended Tamiya AS-2. You have to take extra precautions to keep decals from silvering. This paint has a lot of "tooth" and is porous, too. I messed up the most important main hull insignia and it basically cannot be undone. At least as far as I'm willing to fix it.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi kdaracal!

Thank you for this excelent thread! You, Trekkriffic and a couple of others modelers here are making an invaluable repository of information for us other modelers. They are worth gold!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I did some initial dry fitting of the nacelle supports (Jeffries Tubes?) into the secondary hull mount point and into the nacelle tube mount point. I'm having real trouble even getting the thing dry fitted into the secondary hull. Man, it is WAY too tight. There is one part that you glue inside the opening, part # 54 and 53. There is only one way to fit them and I know I did it right. but the hole is still too small. It's as if the part is just wrong. 

Part # 54 (or 53) view from the inside:



Exterior opening, (nothing strange, all looks well):



A rectangle is a rectangle:



Sheesh. I hate to start hacking/sanding. The instruction sheet says it needs to be snug. But it cannot be forced at this point. I think I'll head over to the "Sticky" and ask if anyone has had similar issues. Those guys know everything....


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I had the same problem. Went in easily on one side, not at all on the other. I ended up sanding down the pylon "pin" until it fit like the other side did. Didn't take much sanding to get to that point, as I recall.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

You might try rounding off the edges of the pylon tab. Try it just at the tip first. If you can get it started into the hole it should slide in the rest of the way.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for the tips!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> A rectangle is a rectangle:


I think I see part of your problem. In the photo above there is just the slightest bit of misalignment of the pylon halves. Probably 1/64 of an inch or less. Depending on how hard the glue has set you might be able to just file the edges for it to slide in if the parts have just a little give to them.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> I think I see part of your problem. In the photo above there is just the slightest bit of misalignment of the pylon halves. Probably 1/64 of an inch or less. Depending on how hard the glue has set you might be able to just file the edges for it to slide in if the parts have just a little give to them.


Thankfully, those are not glued yet. That was just a photo opportunity shot. I'll be placing the appropriate power wire in before final glue/alignment. 

But I'll do at least _*some*_ of the sanding before glue.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Another pylon mounting issue:
Pylon "pins" about 2mm too long on nacelle side. They won't seat flush with the nacelle wall (in addition to being too wide/thick, there also)

It's gonna be a long, sandy week.


----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Can you double check you've got the right part #s for the halves? Sounds like there's a mismatch.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

RossW said:


> Can you double check you've got the right part #s for the halves? Sounds like there's a mismatch.


Yep. I triple-checked. Parts were just dry fitted. 
So no real worries. Thanks, sir!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Another minor fit issue:

I believe the K wire, powering the nacelle lights/motor, is interfering with the support pylons. This causes the support pylons to NOT sit flush against the nacelle wall. This is happening on both nacelles (before fix):




So I sanded off a wire width amount of plastic from the END of the mounting pin on the pylon. This solved most of the fit issue.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

OK, so I'm possessed with figuring out a way to glue, seam-sand, putty, paint and finish the secondary hull all by itself, free from the rest of the model being glued in place. 

*AND STILL BE ABLE TO RUN THE POWER/LIGHTS AND WIRES!*

The nacelles, support pylons, primary hull and neck are all finished and complete except for weathering. I do not want to take a chance on messing those areas up.

The instructions seem to suggest that these 7 major parts need to be glued together at the same time. Then to position the model upside-down on books or CD cases to keep everything lined up and true. This presents lots of logistical issues to figure out how to light this bad boy!

Short laundry list of logistical issues:


K wires need to move freely through the nacelle support pylons inside a thin channel
K wires need to be "fished" through the back of the secondary hull, if you intend to glue halves together before finishing electronics
You have to pre-run the J *power* wire through the bottom of the secondary hull before painting
You need to protect the wires and contacts from paint by masking the sensor array hole at the front of the secondary hull

*Here are some pictures:*

K fishing wire, long enough to reach out the front:


Exterior shot of the fishing wire:


J power wire coming through bottom of secondary hull:


Cardboard mask to protect wiring from paint overspray, with fishing wires hanging out:


**Note-"fishing" wire will be used to pull the K nacelle wires through secondary hull, then discarded. They are not part of the model and came from my own stash**

*Hard to follow my madness, but this is the most important part, at least for me!*


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Believe it or not, this all makes sense when you understand the wiring set up. *


----------



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I followed a very similar procedure ("fishing") when I built mine. You're on the right track.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Another problem causing the gap is that you have the pylons on backwards. That pylon belongs on the starboard side. The windows on the pylon should be toward the forward edge.


----------



## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

Prowler901 said:


> Another problem causing the gap is that you have the pylons on backwards. That pylon belongs on the starboard side. The windows on the pylon should be toward the forward edge.


That's an excellent observation. I didn't notice it at first, but after I read your comment, I looked at the photo the OP posted.


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Prowler901 said:


> Another problem causing the gap is that you have the pylons on backwards. That pylon belongs on the starboard side. The windows on the pylon should be toward the forward edge.


Actually based on the distance between the black window and the nacelle, I think it may be upside down. The two windows closest together need to be on top and closer to the forward facing edge of the pylon as seen here:


IMG_4984 by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks,, everyone!! Super good help!!


----------



## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

kdaracal said:


> Thanks,, everyone!! Super good help!!


Like they say, it takes a village...


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Gemini1999 said:


> Like they say, it takes a *village*...


Portmeirion?*

*Let's see who gets that...


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Gemini1999 said:


> Like they say, it takes a village...


Yea. But sometimes I feel like the village idiot. 

Scotty would've fired me long ago:
"Nothing personal, laddy. But you're friggin' stupid."


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Portmeirion?*
> 
> *Let's see who gets that...


We are all just PRISONERS of this styrene dream...


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Portmeirion?*
> 
> *Let's see who gets that...


Well, I'm out....????


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> We are all just PRISONERS of this styrene dream...


 I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed or numbered. My Enterprise is my own. :jest:


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Trekkriffic said:


> Actually based on the distance between the black window and the nacelle, I think it may be upside down. The two windows closest together need to be on top and closer to the forward facing edge of the pylon as seen here:


Ah yes. You are correct sir!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, debriefed or numbered. My Enterprise is my own. :jest:


Nicely said! As long as it's screen-perfect.....

Bwahhaaa!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Ah yes. You are correct sir!


Seriously. Can you imagine if Scotty had to crawl through the wrong Geffries Tube? He'd get all lost and turned around and whatnot. 

Having the hull color the wrong shade of gray is one thing. But having the support pylons basakwards is a whole other level of wrong.


----------



## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Ah c'mon. He knows that ship like the back of his own hand... (clang!)... LOL 

Hey, I just hope we caught it before things got glued together.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Prowler901 said:


> Ah c'mon. He knows that ship like the back of his own hand... (clang!)... LOL


:lol::lol::lol::lol:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Got the secondary hull painted and primed for decals. This pup might actually get done this weekend!!


----------



## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Go KD, go!! :thumbsup:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Getting all the Xbox and DVD cases assembled......

(Read instruction manual to understand that one!)


----------



## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Very nice looking build!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Getting so close to finishing, I can almost taste it!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I began some decals:

Trimmed out the carrier film so as not to cover some lights:


You can cut most of this decal out in one piece, but I carefully measured each geometric shape, and made tiny pencil dots at the corners. Then gloss coated and finished with Micromark 2-part system to minimize silvering:



Hit this on the first try---IN ONE PIECE!!:



*more..........*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

My favorite insignia. I don't know why:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Son sketched this for me during the decaling tonight, for moral support:


----------



## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

Looking fantastic can hardly wait for the final result. Great picture a new trekkie to boldly go :thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Nova Mike said:


> Looking fantastic can hardly wait for the final result. Great picture a new trekkie to boldly go :thumbsup:


Holy crap! Did you see soloboy5's??? Wow!!


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> Holy crap! Did you see soloboy5's??? Wow!!


I saw it. It's nice but, and this may be nitpicking, the little red lights on the bridge dome were round when they should be conical. Just a little thing but I like accuracy and things like that just bug me.


----------



## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

kdaracal said:


> Son sketched this for me during the decaling tonight, for moral support:


Nice! Here's my son's that he drew on a B-day card for me. He was looking at the F-Toys 1/2500 Enterprise:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Proper2 said:


> Nice! Here's my son's that he drew on a B-day card for me. He was looking at the F-Toys 1/2500 Enterprise:


Good drawing. And no gridlines either!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Excellent!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> I saw it. It's nice but, and this may be nitpicking, the little red lights on the bridge dome were round when they should be conical. Just a little thing but I like accuracy and things like that just bug me.


Eeeek! Then you're gonna bash your computer screen in when you see my work!

I feel the whole AS-2 body paint is too dang dark.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Proper2 said:


> Nice! Here's my son's that he drew on a B-day card for me. He was looking at the F-Toys 1/2500 Enterprise:


That drawing is awesome!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Good drawing. And no gridlines either!


:lol:


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> Eeeek! Then you're gonna bash your computer screen in when you see my work!
> 
> I feel the whole AS-2 body paint is too dang dark.


Just make sure her rounded bridge has pointy nipples and you'll be fine.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

It all comes down to sex....


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> It all comes down to sex....


That's what she said...


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

AS-2 is the Tamiya paint color recommended on the box art!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Trekkriffic said:


> I saw it. It's nice but, and this may be nitpicking, the little red lights on the bridge dome were round when they should be conical. Just a little thing but I like accuracy and things like that just bug me.


Are the parts that come with the kit *not* already conical?


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> Are the parts that come with the kit *not* already conical?


Yes. The parts as molded are conical. In the kit they are clear. I bought the lighting kit and it came with the same parts molded in colors.


----------



## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Trekkriffic said:


> Yes. The parts as molded are conical. In the kit they are clear. I bought the lighting kit and it came with the same parts molded in colors.


Still confused - are you suggesting soloboy5 modified the kit supplied parts to make them round?


----------



## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

It looks like the conical bridge lights have been modified to my eyes.

If you look at the 5th picture from the top (click on it to enlarge) the light on the left looks like it has a red half-bead sitting on top of the conical light because the half-round is not flush up against the bridge itself.

Also the nipple on the bottom sensor dome looks like it is not on yet, but that may be like the warp grilles - just finishing touches.

Still a great-looking build tho...


----------



## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

Trekkriffic said:


> I saw it. It's nice but, and this may be nitpicking, the little red lights on the bridge dome were round when they should be conical. Just a little thing but I like accuracy and things like that just bug me.


You ARE a stickler for accuracy! 

But then, the 2 forward windows of the B/C deck being out of position on the MR TOS E was what kept me from buying one....


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

J_Indy said:


> But then, the 2 forward windows of the B/C deck being out of position on the MR TOS E was what kept me from buying one....


Do you regret that or no?


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## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

Proper2 said:


> Do you regret that or no?


Was always 50-50 on it. Sometimes I would regret not getting one, but other times I disliked MR enough not to mind not giving them my money. 

One of the things that hadn't occurred to me was how much noise the motors make. A recent vid of TrekWork's on Youtube goes over how he dampened the motor sound in a 1/350 build for a client:






He comments near the end about the noise level of the MR motors.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

J_Indy said:


> Was always 50-50 on it. Sometimes I would regret not getting one, but other times I disliked MR enough not to mind not giving them my money.
> 
> One of the things that hadn't occurred to me was how much noise the motors make. A recent vid of TrekWork's on Youtube goes over how he dampened the motor sound in a 1/350 build for a client:
> 
> ...


Man, that's a clean build. Interestingly, my noisy Bussard mounts were way too loose. Mine did not fit snuggly at all and would fall out.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

The instruction sheet says to use books to allow the completed model to sit, upside-down, while glue dries. I take this to mean all major parts need to be glued at the same time-ie main hull and nacelles to secondary hull. 

So you prop the saucer up 1 & 3/4 inches on the front and back, and the secondary hull props up 5 & 1/8 inches near the very tail: 



Trouble is, random books are hard to get to those measures. So I went to Home Depot and asked the paint lady I needed an unusual amount of paint stirs. That I was happy to pay for them, maybe 30 or 35. She said it was illegal to allow customers to pay for them. So she *GAVE* me 35 paint stirs! Then she made me promise I'd go on their website and mention her "awesome customer service", in an online survey. I said OK.



I gave one last glance at the security camera ball as I slunk out the exit like a shoplifter.....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Then I was questioned by the "boss" when I got home............Very hard to 'splain 30 odd paint stirs to the wife. So I just smiled at her and paddled my hand with one, as I gave her the "up-down eyebrow" action. 

All I got was a shrug and an eye roll.....


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Wedge doorstops might work, too. But they're not free!


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

J_Indy said:


> Was always 50-50 on it. Sometimes I would regret not getting one, but other times I disliked MR enough not to mind not giving them my money.
> 
> One of the things that hadn't occurred to me was how much noise the motors make. A recent vid of TrekWork's on Youtube goes over how he dampened the motor sound in a 1/350 build for a client:
> 
> ...


I keep my MR under an acrylic cover. The noise is negligible.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> Then I was questioned by the "boss" when I got home............Very hard to 'splain 30 odd paint stirs to the wife. So I just smiled at her and paddled my hand with one, as I gave her the "up-down eyebrow" action.
> 
> 
> All I got was a shrug and an eye roll.....


I used a combination of hard and paperback books and old issues of TV Guide to support the subassemblies as they dried. Worked fine.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

:wave:


J_Indy said:


> Was always 50-50 on it. Sometimes I would regret not getting one, but other times I disliked MR enough not to mind not giving them my money.
> 
> One of the things that hadn't occurred to me was how much noise the motors make. A recent vid of TrekWork's on Youtube goes over how he dampened the motor sound in a 1/350 build for a client:
> 
> ...


Not to toot my own horn but I think mine runs even quieter than that.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> :wave:
> 
> Not to toot my own horn but I think mine runs even quieter than that.


Based on what I have seen I agree with your assessment, and I plan to duplicate it in mine (if I can..lol)


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

kdaracal said:


> Then I was questioned by the "boss" when I got home............Very hard to 'splain 30 odd paint stirs to the wife. So I just smiled at her and paddled my hand with one, as I gave her the "up-down eyebrow" action.
> 
> All I got was a shrug and an eye roll.....


LOL. Wives are wives, doesn't matter where on the world. :lol:

Yeah, maybe husbands too.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> :wave:
> 
> Not to toot my own horn but I think mine runs even quieter than that.


Please continue to toot. Or we won't learn nuthin'.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Prepping table for final glue bomb...er... super-good gluing job:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Ha ha ha ha


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Well, I got her together. She's straight and all the lights work. 

Even though this has been the weekend from he**. The wife, kids and I wanted to head to a winery to check out the facility, Saturday. The wife was scoping out a large venue for an upcoming corporate event. But the garage floor was covered in water. The water heater decided to die. So I stayed home on the phone looking for a 24 hr plumber. I found one, who could only do it Sunday. So I shut the water off and toughed it out. The plumber came at 9am today and said he needed lots of extra time and $$ to bring me up to city code. It also happened to be garage sale day in our subdivision. So I had to play deflection duty to keep the "shoppers" away from our open garage. 

Long story short, I glued and light-tested the afternoon away. 

Pics/vids to come.
:roll::woohoo::woohoo:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Lots of final assembly news to share. 

*More to come.....*


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple pics:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Couple more:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Ok. First things first. It's not perfect. Far from it. Lots of light leaks, decal silvering, no good weathering (yet), and poorly fitting joints around saucer, and nacelle front domes, especially. 

But no apologies. I LOVE this model. For my skill level, it is the best work I've ever done. And a tons of fun and learning. I KNOW I'm a better modeler for it. To have this model in my collection is a true dream. It's been a long time since I've just sat and looked at a finished model with so much pride and "holy crap, that's cool!"

Thanks for everyone's help and also a big thanks to the folks that stayed in my corner. I have a ton of new friends from this build. I really appreciate the support, even when things bogged down. 

Thanks again, guys! 

More tips/tricks I picked up, later, if anyone is interested.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Throwing down some quickie recommendations:*

-Save final subassemblies to the last and glue it all together, all at once. 

-Use the instruction recommendation and allow to dry upside down on books/CD cases, (or in my case, paint sticks) with precise measurements. 

-Part # 13 warning: This is the base part that supports the metal pole coming from the stand. Make sure it is mounted and glued level in the hull housing. Although my model is very straight and true, the whole thing leans slightly because part # 13 was not checked for "squareness" and was off kilter by a millimeter or two. And it shows! 

-I had really good results using regular colored Sharpie markers coloring the _back_ side of some clear parts. Especially that big clear dome in the back, top side of the secondary hull over the hangar bay. I used the clear part # 134, and "painted" the three little light pins on that part with red, orange and yellow Sharpies. Then I "painted" the INSIDE surface of the optional WHITE dome GREEN (part # 135 white version). So when it is lit, the subtle green shows up beautifully and the little colored pins show up through all that. Just perfect!

-I found the *Aztek Dummy *paint mask set invaluable in getting this model painted.

-Test and retest everything. (Lights/parts fit, etc) Don't assume anything. One screw up and you'll find yourself sealing in lights with no way to power them!

-Don't assume the instructions are fully correct. I found several "typos" in the various sheets. Especially with duplicate parts on either side, or forward/rear. 

-Use the official Round 2 Youtube video to help you with the light installation. The paper instructions are difficult to comprehend and don't mesh well with the regular assembly instructions.

-Use white Elmer's glue on nacelle motor mounts and secondary hull sensor array to access those areas for service if something goes wrong with the lights. 

*More to come as I remember....*


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Astonishing build.

Thanks a lot for the recommendations.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Pretty is pretty!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks, guys. Woot!


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Congrats! She looks beautiful. It's amazing how awesome they look all lit up. You've every right to be proud. :thumbsup:

And, thanks for sharing all your tips and recommendations. Those will be helpful to many.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Congrats! She looks beautiful. It's amazing how awesome they look all lit up. You've every right to be proud. :thumbsup:
> 
> And, thanks for sharing all your tips and recommendations. Those will be helpful to many.


Thanks, again, man!

:wave:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

In all honesty, the light leaks and light blow-through really don't show up too bad in real life. the camera really magnifies those flaws. It looks sooo much better in person.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Hind-Sight 20/20: *

If I had it to do over again:

-Worked harder on figuring out light leak reduction

-I would've used a lighter, "whiter" main color

-Would have found better ways to keep decals from "silverering" 

-Would've smoothed seams better on secondary hull. I got tired, impatient and lazy at that point in the build


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> -I would've used a lighter, "whiter" main color


No way; I like what you chose! If you want it lighter, thow a bright light on it!:thumbsup:
I liked how it was sort of darkish in the remastered new FX, and then in Tomorrow is Yesterday it looked practically white in Earth's atmo.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Maybe the ship looks dark in the photos because the camera's light meter darkened the shot overall? Can you brighten the shot so whites look white?


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## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

Beautiful work,it looks so majestic:thumbsup: thanks for sharing your your build. Look forward to seeing your next project, maybe a botany bay


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks again, guys! Now on to the Harryhausen "attacked" US Capitol Building......


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## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

kdaracal said:


> *Hind-Sight 20/20: *
> 
> If I had it to do over again:
> 
> ...


Congratulations on the build and thanks for the tips on things you found out while building her.

If you have light leaks from gaps, stuff like Bondo Spot Putty is cheap and opaque. After sanding it can be painted over if you can match the original paint.

I am surprised you got silvering on some decals after following the usual recommendation of gloss-coat and micro-set/sol. Wonder if the sol needs to be applied several times to melt the carrier film....


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

J_Indy said:


> Wonder if the sol needs to be applied several times to melt the carrier film....


I've had questionable experiences there as well. Just sayin'.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Now for something completely different:



8.02 minutes of sheer bliss.....


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Eh? I can't make out what's on the phone screen.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> Eh? I can't make out what's on the phone screen.


It is a video clip.. the images is the star trek communicator app for the iphone/droid.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

jgoldsack said:


> It is a video clip.. the images is the star trek communicator app for the iphone/droid.


Ahhhh! Nice!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Eh? I can't make out what's on the phone screen.


Crumby, old digital camera. But the app is pretty nice. Communicator detail is very nice and all the sounds are audio grabs from the show. The audio is crystal clear, too.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

If that's the STComm app, you do know it hooks into the internal accelerometer so you can flip it open and shut just like the real ones?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Communicator detail is very nice and all the sounds are audio grabs from the show. The audio is crystal clear, too.


I have 3. A tiny bit of tweaking makes it nearly perfect.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey kdaracal!

I've just put this question to Trekkriffic on his 1/350 TOS thread. What would you say?

"And at the end of an epic like this, how do you feel about have finished the job"?


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

I have that phone app, but mine does have nearly as many sound clips. Very nice! Will hafta see if one is out with more clips.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

RossW said:


> If that's the STComm app, you do know it hooks into the internal accelerometer so you can flip it open and shut just like the real ones?


Yea, baby! It is quite cool.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey kdaracal!
> 
> I've just put this question to Trekkriffic on his 1/350 TOS thread. What would you say?
> 
> "And at the end of an epic like this, how do you feel about have finished the job"?


"Thank you, mommy! May I have another?"
I really want an unlit one using the white windows.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> "Thank you, mommy! May I have another?"
> I really want an unlit one using the white windows.


*NO LIGHTS!!??? Oh the PAIN, the PAIN!!! *

girlyscream2 by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> *NO LIGHTS!!??? Oh the PAIN, the PAIN!!! *
> 
> girlyscream2 by trekriffic, on Flickr


What a great screen grab! Those are the good ole' episodes! But after a build like this, I want to move away from lights for awhile. 

They burn!


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

Really great job.It turned out fantastic.Looking forward to your Harryhausen build as I am a big fan of his.Loved the original artwork by the kids.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

BOXIE said:


> Really great job.It turned out fantastic.Looking forward to your Harryhausen build as I am a big fan of his.Loved the original artwork by the kids.


Thanks, Boxie. It is a tribute themed build for my Fantasy Modeler's Club in SF. Like minded 40+ nerds throwing down some awesome scifi models once a month!!!


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