# Need Airbrush trouble shooting help



## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

I have a Iwata Neo CN gravity feed airbrush.
http://www.iwata-medea.com/images/iwata-pdf/NEO-Install-Manual-Long.pdf 

I sprayed some enamel paint and since then I have no paint flow and get bubbles in the paint cup. I can't even spray water out of the paint cup. It blows air fine.

I have:

Tried to run enamel paint thinner through the brush but I think whatever is in there is dried on
Cleaned the needle several times
Cleaned nozzle and all of the other parts I can get to several times (with enamel paint thinner and q-tips)
Increased pressure from the compressor to 60 psi to try to clean out the blockage

I can get water to spray if I put my thumb over the top of the cup but feel back pressure. Nothing I can see appears clogged.

I have only had this since Christmas and have had not problems up to now.

I've Googled solutions but they are already things I have tried

Any other suggestions?

Tom


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

maybe try acetone(nail polish remover) to dissolve whatever is clogging. also a very thin but stiff wire might help. but soak in acetone first. beware, it is known to cause cancer in CA., I don't know if it is known to cause cancer anywhere else.


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

You may have some debris in the body, between the bottle feed and the needle/nozzle fittings. If Al's wire doesn't clear it (it should) soak a Q-tip (with the cotton pulled off, just the paper stick) in acetone and ream around the inside of the body and trough the bottle feed area. I have an old Badger 150 which is basically the same design and paint tends to build in the body/trigger cavity. Hope this helps.

-Paul


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Eegads! Latex?*



pshoe64 said:


> You may have some debris in the body, between the bottle feed and the needle/nozzle fittings. If Al's wire doesn't clear it (it should) soak a Q-tip (with the cotton pulled off, just the paper stick) in acetone and ream around the inside of the body and trough the bottle feed area. I have an old Badger 150 which is basically the same design and paint tends to build in the body/trigger cavity. Hope this helps.
> 
> -Paul


Might as well be spraying mud puddle water frogs and all. I betcha ya sprayed latex, blew some thinner through it and called her good...? Shudder!

Shoe's right. You've more than likely got a fluid obstruction. In order to move fluid two things must happen. The needle must move and the fluid passages must be clear.

It's always best to break the whole thing down and start from scratch when your having issues. Inspect and CAREFULLY clean the fluid path. I prefer lacquer thinner for cleaning regardless of what has been sprayed through the unit. Wire pokey is a last resort. When possible I encourage people to harvest a synthetic bristle from a scrubbing brush or what have you and excercise patience when cleaning. 

I generally leave my DA disassembled after cleaning and re-assemble it for use. By doing so it ensures that the needle NEVER siezes in the packing due to dryed residual film or particles. Should the needle be siezed, remove it carefully and clean it; then reinsert the needle and wick some thinner onto the needle using an artists brush. Hold the rig vertical and allow the thinner to migrate to the packing. Work the needle carefully through until it frees up and glides through. After freeing things up, I like to smear the slightest amount of airtool oil on the needle about where the packing rides....you'll have to eyeball that. Less is more. Ya dont want it all schlobbered on the forward portion of the needle. 

It is imperative that the needle slides freely through the body. While you may depress the plunger and receive air; just because the trigger moves rearward doesnt necessarily mean that the needle is actuated.

BTW Did ya remember lock the clutch nut for the needle? Yes it's a Homer Simpson question...but it has happened...just sayin'....d'oh! Especially on models with covered tail pieces like the Eye Water.

Certainly a pain in the ass, but by cleaning my rig immediatly after use....and I mean immediatly without fail; then leaving the rig apart until ready for use, I'm always ready to spray.

Good luck Bob! Please let us know how it works out.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Bob,

I have an Iwata airbrush also. 

The bubbles in the bowl come from a clogged tip...you get the same affect if you put a rag on the front of your airbrush and hit the trigger.

When running a bowl of fresh Acetone to clean up after painting (first I pour back extra paint into my paint bottle and wipe out excess paint with a paper towel) I put a rag in front of my airbrush and bubble clean & use an old paintbrush to break up any paint in the bottom of the bowl and then spray.

I clean the needle off with Acetone also and sometimes spray Goo Gone on my trigger mechanism to keep it from getting all gummed up.

Bob...a clean airbrush is a happy airbrush...zilla


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

Good advice from others...break it down, inspect and clean. 
You may already do this (I use Passche) but I was taught to submerge the rig in a bucket of solution (water/ thinner/etc. for type of paint) spray with other finger covering nozzle to create back pressure in the bucket, brush out cup, disassemble, wipe all parts clean being careful to not bend the needle tip, and reassemble at the end of each painting session (bill makes a good point about keeping it dissembled). it kinda sounds like bob's method. If not completely smooth sometimes you'll get build up on worn surfaces...may be time to polish areas if can be reached. Be careful, I remember from long ago that too high of pressure being bad for airbrushes.

PS. everything causes Cancer in California signs everywhere you look. I'm so fed up with them telling us how to live...It's like a nervous mother...sorry for the rant


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