# HOSLOTCARRACING.COM Super II clone?



## Auroraafx1 (Jan 12, 2009)

I was playing around on a bunch of sites looking at tracks and adapters, and I stumbled on to this http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/SuperII.html has anyone bought one of these? Im thinking about the 76 dollar polymer magnet one. Or my other idea considering I already have a few mean green arms, why not just buy the polymer magnets and the 19 tooth crown gear and see what it does. Ive E-Mailed him a few times about maybe modding my car or telling me the exact parts to order to do my own but he hasnt responded. Most of you on here have alot more experience then me so Id like a few opinions.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

OK, here you go, find Nacho-car on ebay and buy some nice poly magnets from him. he has both t-jet size and magna-traction size. contact tjetsgrig (a member here) and ask him the price on a custom wound armature. tell him what you are planning. he even winds some real nice 4 ohm quadralams of his own that closely resemble original Aurora quadralams but run better. with a little more searching, you can even get the brass brush cups (ask me nice and I'll sell ya a pair) to upgrade your chassis. if ya play your cards right, you can get an original chassis with the cups already in place, New Old Stock, for a fair price. 19 tooth crowns are usually available on ebay as well. last but not least, original bodies are frequently available on eBay also, at a reasonable price or you can use what ever light weight lexan body YOU prefer. creating your own Super II clone should be easy and less than the price I saw advertised. yes, I have nearly (actually everything) everything to create a complete, original Aurora Super II including one original correct black gear plate with the two little supports to hold the back of the body up. but, some of the parts I have are impossible to replace for anything reasonable cost wise. I am sure there will be a lot more opinions on this, so keep reloading and reading. and have fun.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

The Super II was an "okay" car of it's time. Neither ground breaking nor a dominant race car of the day. The 4-lamination motor was a nice step up from the base 2-lamination motor and by far the most intriguing part of the entire car. No kinda-sorta-somewhat-almost-resembles a Super II clone would be complete without a 4-lam motor and original motors are hard to come by. A reasonable facsimile would be an aftermarket 4-lam motor, either an XL conversion or a custom from a motor builder like Galinko. Otherwise, even with a mean green, it's like putting a stock small block 318 in place of a 426 HEMI in a vintage Charger, one that's had the doors filled with lead. 

A fully intact and clean Super II is a valuable collectors piece because it is hard to find, mostly because a lot of the originals were parted out. Having an original painted body is a big deal for a collectible piece and having a timed 4-lam motor is important if you want to replicate the driving experience with a high degree of fidelity. It takes a torquer arm to push around all that lead. 

You just have to ask yourself, how valuable is a picture of a Claude Monet painting compared to an original? Or how valuable is my rendition of a Claude Monet painting? Painting is painting? Not really.

Just my two cents worth of opinion, with no nostalgic inflation applied.


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## Auroraafx1 (Jan 12, 2009)

From the way you read about these super 2's they sound like they're the end all of performance, really I can care less how original it is. I'm just looking to make my magna-traction cars comparable in speed to a Tyco car. I never realized it until a few weeks ago the Tyco cars are like double the speed. I understand that the Magna-traction cars dont have the grip a Tyco does because of magnet placement, but why cant I get a Magna-traction car to go as fast in a straight line. I was hoping that super 2 kit was the way to get it. I'm looking for an equivalent of a 426 Hemi in a valiant.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

there seems to be a major difference in the overall motor(armature) to axle(crown gear) gear ratios between a pancake motored chassis that has a total of 5 gears involving 2 gear ratio changes as opposed to an inline motored 2 gear with one change. if one were able to match, exactly, armature output and magnetic attraction between the two radically different designs of chassis, I am thinking that the number of gears being pushed and the number of changes of ratio said gears are experiencing might be a detriment to the final output at the axle for the pancake style chassis. I could be wrong. Sgrig has pancake motored cars that are faster than stock 440X2s. I haven't studied the exact RPM from armature shaft of a pancake chassis through to the axle RPM output, but, I'll bet someone has. maybe those figures supplied can lend some insight?


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Straight line speed in a MT/XT? Get a hot custom arm. The bloaty lead weights from a Super II add nothing to speed and acceleration. If you want to pump up the cornering for a MT then polymer magnets are the way to go. The closer to the rails you get them the better. In fact, if you cut the magnet cross members off and glue the polymer magnets in the chassis flush with the bottom of the chassis you will pick up even more cornering. The polymer magnets for magnatractions and XTs are about $12 a pair.


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## Auroraafx1 (Jan 12, 2009)

AfxToo I was thinking the poly magnets would make the motor run better and as a side effect I might have some better handling. How do i get a hold of galinko for the arm where is the company located, and what should I be expecting to spend? 

Alpink I actually know what you're talking about, my hobby is building hot rods. Basically you're talking about what we refer to in the automotive field as final drive ratio. Now I know this from a Cutlass I built, I put a bigger engine in it and the car ran a 14.0 on the quarter mile, with a final gear ratio of 2.49, i switched out to a gear ratio of 3.73 and dropped down to a 13.8, and the car accelerated faster, however on the highway I was reving higher at the same speed and sacrificed top speed to faster acceleration. So saying that the power output and top speed of the armature in both the TYCO and the AFX were the same all I would have to do is match the final drive ratio and Id have a car as fast. So maybe with a more torquey and higher rpm motor then the factory red and gold arm and a slightly higher gear I can make up for the weight, and parasitic loss from the friction of all the gears, and the AFX could be as fast if not faster. 

Is it worth swapping to Super 2 brushes or do you only see an effect from them when the motor gets hot from extended racing?


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## Auroraafx1 (Jan 12, 2009)

I saw this arm is this close to what you guys are talking about 

Black Widow 1.3 ohm +/-triple wind (3 wire) 5 degree advanced timing Not for the faint at heart. This is the most powerful of all the Road Race Motors and for more advanced racers only. 

heres the url http://njhobby.net/tjet_race_parts/tjet_race_parts.htm


$35.00


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

1.3 ohms is a little hot for road racing applications, IMO. I can wind you a better motor for less cost, or, I can build you an AFX chassis that a Tyco won't even touch!!


Jim Sgrig


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

tjetsgrig said:


> 1.3 ohms is a little hot for road racing applications, IMO. I can wind you a better motor for less cost, or, I can build you an AFX chassis that a Tyco won't even touch!!
> 
> 
> Jim Sgrig




Haha yea man!!! Thats what i'm talking about. Jim I might as well bring you a few more to work on when I see you this weekend. 

Forget the Galinko winder and go with Jim Sgrig!!! Better winder imo. Hands down. I have had experience with both Jim and Alan's and I give Jim my business. Nothing against Alan I just had better results with Jim's arm's.

Thanks for winding mine up Jim!!!!:thumbsup:


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Thanks Joe!!
Let me clarify, I can wind a more suitable motor than a 1.3ohm for the application stated. IMO, the 1.3 is just too hot..........


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## dtomol (Mar 30, 2005)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Haha yea man!!! Thats what i'm talking about. Jim I might as well bring you a few more to work on when I see you this weekend.
> 
> Forget the Galinko winder and go with Jim Sgrig!!! Better winder imo. Hands down. I have had experience with both Jim and Alan's and I give Jim my business. Nothing against Alan I just had better results with Jim's arm's.
> 
> Thanks for winding mine up Jim!!!!:thumbsup:


These arm are not Alan they are from DC motor's & Joe marks them up, so you can buy them on line at DC motors.


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## dtomol (Mar 30, 2005)

Has anyone tried a AW/JL trilam armature blank for having an a custom Arm wound. Not as many lamination a Quadrlam but one more than a Tjet. So any body have any Ideas. Also how about drilling holes in the aramature blanks to make them lighter etc.


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

dtomol said:


> These arm are not Alan they are from DC motor's & Joe marks them up, so you can buy them on line at DC motors.


???????????????????????????????
Joe has been getting motors from me......Yellow Jacket Performance! I am in no way associated with "DCmotors"! I've been Yellow Jacket waaaaaaay before he started winding motors.............more than a decade and a half....

And as far as I know, Joe hasn't been reselling my motors........I wouldn't care anyway!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

tjetsgrig said:


> ???????????????????????????????
> Joe has been getting motors from me......Yellow Jacket Performance! I am in no way associated with "DCmotors"! I've been Yellow Jacket waaaaaaay before he started winding motors.............more than a decade and a half....
> 
> And as far as I know, Joe hasn't been reselling my motors........I wouldn't care anyway!



You are correct Jim, Joe is selling the DC motors but to each is own!! He was referring to Joe at Nastalgia Hobby, not me. lol

I have your stuff here bud and i'll get it out in a little bit.:thumbsup:


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## Auroraafx1 (Jan 12, 2009)

Its funny DC motors is actually the site I found that motor on its called the black widow, there is a place in scotch planes new jersey that is selling the same arms offered from his site. Considering I'm about 30mins from there I was debating on going. At this point I'm kind of confused, I understand the 1.3 engine is too much for my car, but now who should I have wind me a motor, buy the one from DC Motors, or this guy named Joe? How can I get in contact with Joe to check his prices? I have a Mean Green in the car, an instant improvement over the factory maganatraction red arm. It has the stock Magnatraction magnets, they're like a burgundy and white, with out the Magnasonic box its fairly quick until the gear flies off, but the Tyco is still whipping my ass. From what I read the Mean Green is 6-6.5, what ohm should I be looking for? Also will changing the magnets for the motor help hold the car on the track? I'm really considering the polys. Its starting to get a little squirelly, I have a hard time getting it through turns with out slowing down alot. I thought maybe the tires were just old and dry so I took them off the Tyco car and put them on the AFX and it ran a little slower due to the tires being a lot larger, but the handling increase was minuscule at best.


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## usdra (Jan 23, 2007)

dtomol said:


> Has anyone tried a AW/JL trilam armature blank for having an a custom Arm wound. Not as many lamination a Quadrlam but one more than a Tjet. So any body have any Ideas. Also how about drilling holes in the aramature blanks to make them lighter etc.


I use them alot. They are very close to true & the coms hold up well.



Eric
www.mobydiditperformance.com


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I have a AFX magnatraction, It has Nacho poly mags, A really good mean green arm, balanced, com plate straightened, glued, the chassis was boiled and checked for straightness etc, stainless hollow rear axle & 19T gear, tires & rims are trued & sized to slam it on the track. It runs better than my Quadralam Super II, Plus just from the collectors stand point I am not afraid of beating on the AFX. The magnets make a huge improvement in handling & speed. I have a Grand National body on it that I lowered & give it just a bit of shake, its a monster to drive, sideways can happen off any corner but not enough to de-slot, unless you bury it & hold it. Just a fun fun car, like TjetGrig's said they can be made to eat a Tyco.

Here is a couple of pics of my little monster. 

As for an arm, its been said many times on here, TjetGrig is the man!!!! I have a 16 ohm rewind pancake that just flies, Jim is a great guy to deal with.

Boosted


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Wow - get out of my brain, man!! 

I don't have any cars that I've put lots of parts or $ into, just lots of time and scrounging of original parts to get 'em running more or less decent. Some times I'll get lucky and get a pretty hot one, at least for scrounge building. 

But I've been thinking about doing one nice chassis that would be a very serious expression of all that is good about the AFX chassis - fast, handles well, slides if you want it to, but is still competitive in the corners if your driving is clean rather than showy. The most likely body I'd put on it is the black AW GN, with the correct decals. (My first brand new car was a GN, ordered from Ken Pruitt Buick near Dallas, TX.) Obviously, I'd have to lower it to get rid of some of the 4WD look that AW XT's tend towards. 

You did all I've been thinking about and more. It looks great!!! And it sounds like it drives great, too. I'll be bookmarking this thread. Awesome car, Boosted.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks Rolls, I really enjoy building cars, I do most of the work myself with tools I have either built or bought a couple, Although I will say Jim has almost changed my mind on arm winding with his motors. Dont feel bad I do most of my stuff on the cheap as well.

Rolls I hate to tell you this 


But I have a silver GN, built just as deadly as the black one.

Sorry man, had to give you something else to think about.

Now go build yours

Boosted


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Boosted-Z71 said:


> Thanks Rolls, I really enjoy building cars, I do most of the work myself with tools I have either built or bought a couple, Although I will say Jim has almost changed my mind on arm winding with his motors. Dont feel bad I do most of my stuff on the cheap as well.
> 
> Rolls I hate to tell you this
> 
> ...


WOW!! Really weird!!! I just set up 2 GN's I got from RM and put 2 screaming chassis. One is a super II replica with a mean green, and the other is a super II with GPlus wheels I installed. I will get some pics later.

Great minds think alike. And these GN's are just fun fun fun!!!


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