# NEW from PARAGRAFIX: Viper Mk VII Cockpit



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I am pleased to announce my latest product - a complete replacement, super detailed cockpit for Moebius's upcoming Viper Mk VII.

I decided to replace the entire cockpit to facilitate detailing the consoles. Resin? Takes a long time to master and get cast.

As a lark, I said to myself, "how about making the entire cockpit tub out of photoetch to save development and production time?" After a few minutes I'd convinced myself it could work and I got pounding ... and realized the scope of what I'd gotten myself into 

With profile gauges, calipers, and a lot of good luck, I got it all worked out. The result will easily be folded into shape and won't require the use of a bending tool.

Of course it will be suitable for lighting and will include transparencies for all of the screens and controls. 

More Info Here.

I'll have additional images over the next couple of days, but for now here is the penultimate fret design:


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Amazing as usual Paul....good to see the engines on there too, looking forward to making another MK VII with lights this time...


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Thanks, Iain. The prototype's a bit rough looking so I won't share photos. I'm working on a 3D model of this for the instructions and should have some images in a few days.


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Looks great Paul. Another temptation to spend more money on modelling. 

I guess this means the release of the Viper Mk7 is getting closer. Can't wait to make one.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Will you be including diffusers for the engines as you did in the MK II?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Hi Iain,

Yes, I'll include them here as well - on the same sheet as all of the backlit displays for the cockpit.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Here are some low-rez renders I did for the instructions. I just have to do the final assembly image. (And I'll adjust the lighting, of course.)


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

looks like a natural for a soldering demo


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Yes - soldering would be perfect to seal the edges from light. I'm going to "sacrifice" a couple to start honing my soldering skills so hopefully I won't have to drag you into the demo room next year


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Paulbo said:


> Yes - soldering would be perfect to seal the edges from light. I'm going to "sacrifice" a couple to start honing my soldering skills so hopefully I won't have to drag you into the demo room next year


http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Metals-AM51024-Liquid-Rosin/dp/B002YM0HN2

Can I offer a suggestion? Be sure to buy some liquid Flux, it will make soldering so much easier. I know the solder has a rosin core but unless you are feeding the solder as you work, by the time you get the iron to the assembly the flux is burned away and you're left with a "Cold solder joint", it'll look bad and may not hold. Without getting into all the things flux does to the metal when hit with heat and solder, lets just say that solder will not stick or flow cleanly without flux. By using the liquid flux on the joint and loading the tip of the iron with solder you now have a hand free to hold your work. These pictures show how with extra flux you can do some tiny soldering. These are from some cameras I got from China and about a third didn't work due to very bad solder joints and by just using liquid flux and reheating the joints, I got the cameras working. I don't do any soldering without it.....:thumbsup:


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Excellent suggestion. Thanks.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

And I'm very sorry for not pointing out what a fantastic job you've done once again.......:thumbsup: I will be ordering at least two sets for my kits.....


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## Captain Sci-Fi (Jun 29, 2010)

This kit as with all the previous Paragrafix kits looks great, so im sure we will be adding it to our growing range of UK Stocked Paragrafix products available from The Captains Store (seemless plug there paul ;-)


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Very subtle, Chris


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

woot!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I ordered a prototype run to confirm the etch layout with all of the folding. Here are a couple of shots. (Note that I only taped this together, which is why there are gaps, particularly around the armrests. I'll get this glued together in the next few days and post some better pictures.)


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Fantastic, count me in on this....well that's provided my eyesight survives the micro-madness of the Orion interior!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Here are some new pictures all glued together with the lighting panels in place. (Actually, it's not _all_ glued together - the armrests and central console are still "wild".)

In the fret image, the 5 round holes in part 2 are for 3mm LEDs if you'll be lighting your Viper.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

The only part I see causing a problem to light is the top screen on the lip of the cockpit opening....I'm thinking maybe replace the kit part with a clear-cast copy and try and project some light through it from the bottom....


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

These were taken without any lights, just ambient lighting. There is a small opening at the base of that screen (you can see it at the top of piece 4) to let some light in the gap between the light panel and the kit part, but there won't be tons.


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## Solium (Apr 24, 2005)

That's pretty amazing. It really "finishes off" the kit. Looks like a must have to me. :thumbsup:


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

There was a screw up with my preordering system over the last day or so (I tried to do some "cute" programming and messed up another part). It would still take preorders ... but the form fields asking for name, email, and other stuff so I could get in touch with the people who entered preorders.

If you tried to preorder today (or haven't received a confirmation from me), please redo your preorder.

I apologize for the inconvenience.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

The cockpit is shipping. All wholesale orders have gone out and preorders start shipping today.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Very nice job on that Paul. Tightens the kit up nicely!


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## RedHeadKevin (May 1, 2009)

Does anybody have any good reference shots for the SEAT in the full-size Viper Mk VII prop? From what I can tell, it's definitely different than the Mk II's seat, but I can't seem to find any good shots.


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## Darkhunter (Dec 17, 2003)

RedHeadKevin said:


> Does anybody have any good reference shots for the SEAT in the full-size Viper Mk VII prop? From what I can tell, it's definitely different than the Mk II's seat, but I can't seem to find any good shots.


Here is a pretty good shot of the seat.
Hope this helps.


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## RedHeadKevin (May 1, 2009)

Sir, you rock... got any other good reference shots?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I hope these help.

Cheers,
Paul


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## RedHeadKevin (May 1, 2009)

Paul, you are a wonderful person. Men will write songs about you.


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## Darkhunter (Dec 17, 2003)

RedHeadKevin said:


> Sir, you rock... got any other good reference shots?


Here are a few more.


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

This cockpit looks awesome!! I've never worked with these photo etched pieces.
Have you ever thought to sell some completed to just drop in (and a lighted version would be awesome too)- ready to be installed into the ship? 
I am so intimidated by wiring and small pieces. I would buy them!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Thanks Mitchellmania!

Actually, non-lighted, this would be an ideal first PE project to work on. Quite literally, nearly everything can be folded without resorting to any kind of tool and you already have every other skill you need to do the rest of the assembly.

If you can wait about 3 weeks to a month, I'll be featuring this in the (long overdue) second installment of my working with photoetch videos.

As for the lighting, check out what's available from Voodoo FX and Madman Lighting. Both of these guys are great to work with.


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## RedHeadKevin (May 1, 2009)

Sweet jeez! This cockpit set looks great! But boy do you have to do a number to the lower fuselage to get it to fit! I can practically read through the plastic, and yes, I have to fix one little spot. Am I doing something wrong here, or do you really have to grind away that much plastic?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

You do have to grind away alot, mainly for the footwell area. (This is the same problem the kit cockpit dealt with by having the hole.)

It shouldn't have to get super-thin, though. (It will get really thin, but not so you can read through it  .) When test fitting, I found that placing the cockpit in the (upside down) upper fuselage, then placing the lower fuselage over it was the best way to figure out if enough material had been removed.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Mitchellmania said:


> This cockpit looks awesome!! I've never worked with these photo etched pieces.
> Have you ever thought to sell some completed to just drop in (and a lighted version would be awesome too)- ready to be installed into the ship?
> I am so intimidated by wiring and small pieces. I would buy them!


I used Paul's photo etch for the very first time on my J2 Pod kit a year ago. I had the same fears. But after a few hours, I was photo etching like a pro. Before that, I never touched photo etch in my life.

His stuff is pretty sturdy, has "fold creases", so no bender tool needed in most cases, and you can even sand the edges of the separated parts with a sand stick to remove metal burrs left over from where they attach to the metal "sprue". You can use tiny drops of super glue and they stick together super nice. After awhile, I learned how to cut closer to the part and rarely needed to do any sanding. My metal kit came with Paul's advice written right in the instructions, and tips on how to get started. 

If you can build plastic kits, you can quickly learn photo etch!


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## RedHeadKevin (May 1, 2009)

And, like Paul said, this project is a pretty painless first-PE project to work on. The metal folds beautifully, and it's thick enough that the flat parts stay flat while you fold it, it fits in really nicely, and there isn't much in the way of beating up the basic kit. (Unlike some kits where you have to sand away all the cockpit detail) You will need to grind out some space in the lower fuselage, but it's not that bad. Just be careful with that Dremel. 

PS... when painting the buttons and stuff in the cockpit... a Sharpie works wonders. Just don't put a clear coat or a wash over it..


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

RedHeadKevin said:


> And, like Paul said, this project is a pretty painless first-PE project to work on. The metal folds beautifully, and it's thick enough that the flat parts stay flat while you fold it, it fits in really nicely, and there isn't much in the way of beating up the basic kit. (Unlike some kits where you have to sand away all the cockpit detail) You will need to grind out some space in the lower fuselage, but it's not that bad. Just be careful with that Dremel.
> 
> PS... when painting the buttons and stuff in the cockpit... a Sharpie works wonders. Just don't put a clear coat or a wash over it..


Sharpies. Not thought of that one! I'll be using it, though!
:wave:


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