# 1/1000 Production TOS Enterprise



## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Well, I've reached the final stage of my three-part project, and have been working on my ultimate TOS production-style _Enterprise_, using the 1/1000 Polar Lights/Round 2 kit.

My previous efforts for the first and second pilot versions have turned out very well.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=293308

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=300182


And the blog I developed for this project has been growing and growing, but is still a work in progress. As usual, I intive suggestions and corrections.

http://www.enterproject.wordpress.com


The thread I started at Starship Modeler concerning this topic has been a great ride, too:

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=78639



So, at this point, I've taken my time assembling my production model and filling seams. I'm now ready for primer. Then, it's on to the basecoat.

The next step will be choosing the actual colors. Now, for my two pilot models, I've stuck with Testors' Flat Gull Gray for the base, and Dark Ghost Gray for the accents on the engines.

For this model, I'm looking for the ultimate in accuracy. Is it fair to say that the paint formula from Paul Newitt's article--

http://culttvman.com/main/?p=7718

--is still the best way to go? And what about the engine accents? The kit instructions suggest both Dark Ghost Gray and Gunship Gray, although I strongly believe that only one medium gray highlight color was used on the real model (and that it was slightly darker than the highlight color used on the pilot versions of the ship).

This thread will both chronicle my build, and serve as a research thread for all the nitty-gritty details of the production _Enterprise_. Some interesting tidbits have already come out in the SSM thread (and my Second Pilot thread in this forum), and I look forward to seeing what happens here.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I used Newitt's recommended "concrete" color on my ISS Enterprise in this scale and was quite pleased with it. The color is a little lighter than "concrete" to account for scale. For the accent colors I used a mix of the basecoat and medium grey IIRC.
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/Trekriffic/ISS Enterprise/IMG_1043.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/Trekriffic/ISS Enterprise/ISSEnterpriseAboveBow.jpg


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

First, let me say HOLY COW!!! Second, I'd like to reiterate--HOLY COW!!!

But seriously, your blog is an incredibly detailed primer of the differences between the first pilot, second pilot, and production versions of the Enterprise, and yet your descriptions and explanations are very easy to read and understand. Surely there will be some modelers who disagree with some of your observations and conclusions, but for most of us I think it will be an invaluable source of information.

I'd also like to say how much I enjoyed looking at the photos of your first pilot and second pilot build-ups. I often forget just how beautiful the original series Enterprise was, and your photos brought me back to seeing the series for the first time in 1966 and the wonder and possibilities of mankind exploring the universe in such a vessel someday.

Needless to say, I look forward to your continued progress on this project. :thumbsup:


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Thanks for the support!

I just want to reiterate--the details covered in the blog are *not* set in stone--I'm not one of those guys who thinks he knows it all, and refuses to hear dissenting opinions. 

Any new data, suggestions, etc. will be incorporated into the blog, which is intended to provide the most current information possible. 

Also note that I've taken pains to leave the questionable details _in question_, rather than stating them as fact (unless I'm really, really sure).


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

And that's one of the things I appreciate about your blog. You don't present the information from an "I know everything there is to know about the U.S.S. Enterprise" point of view, but rather a "This is what I _think_ I know about the U.S.S. Enterprise after doing the research; if you think I'm wrong, let's talk" perspective. It creates a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere that IMO draws the reader in.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

That was the intent. Thanks!


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## BolianAdmiral (Feb 24, 2009)

I have two versions of the "official" TOS Enterprise color... one from Shaw, and one from Casimiro, and then there's the Wal-Mart Concrete color. The Concrete and Shaw's version are pretty darn near identical, but Casimiro's sample is actually a tinge "greener", and I find that I actually think that is the more accurate version to what we saw.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Okay, I've gathered up some materials, and will be giving the model its first coat of primer very soon. Probably tomorrow.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Oooooh! Let's see! Let's see!


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Primed her.

Still some seam filling to be done, but the results are good so far. I'm pleased with the nacelle effect, although I wish the VA domes were tinted orange instead of red. 

Still, once the outer domes (painted inside with clear orange, frosted outside with dullcote) are on, it should give a nice effect. In fact, the red will help give the visual impression of depth and color/light variations inside the domes, I think.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

So, I've been working on filling seams in preparation for the next coat of primer, which should be soon.

After the priming/filling process is complete (which may be after this priming--or it might take another), I'll paint the deflector rings on the front of the secondary hull, then the base color, then the medium gray highlights.

So, with that in mind, I turn my attention to the sensor/deflector assembly. Two items of note come to mind--after all, the whole point of this is to challenge assumptions, and not take anything for granted.

* I'm quite sure that the deflector rings and the dish itself were both painted ther same color in the two pilots--a medium rust/copper color, with the dish weathered rather heavily.

For the series, the dish was apparently reduced in diameter and repainted (since the alteration would necessitate it). The series version of the dish appears to be a brighter copper-ish color than the pilot version (and the rings behind it). I've been working under the notion that the dish was repainted a slightly different color than the rings, but is it possible that the brighter color comes from a lack of weathering after the repaint? Could the rings and the dish still be the same color on the production version?

* Also, I'm second-guessing the rings on the face of the dish itself. The 1/1000 kit features a raised inner ring, and an engraved outer ring. I believe the Master Replicas model also features this arrangement. Most other models/replicas/recreations feature two raised rings. 

In most reference materials the particular play of light and shadow on the dish's concave surface make it easy to interpret the rings one way or the other. And, if there were indeed two raised rings instead of one, I'm not sure how to correct that on the 1/1000 kit part. Have there been any aftermarket dishes that have addressed this--or does it even need to be addressed at all?


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

One raised, one engraved.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

By the way, I was recently checking out the Craig Thompson photo (which I'd forgotten about)--

http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20060703121136/http://members.aol.com/IDICPage/1972Voyage.html


--since it represents the last known color photo of the 11 foot model before the Smithsonian work began.

That leading dorsal stripe does indeed appear to be a blue-ish color (maayyyyybe with a hint of green), which seems to confirm my theory about both the production and pilot dorsal colors.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

so how did you do the fan blades on the nacells? they sure aren't pointy on the clear ones in the kit.

FYI I'm going to be putting in some of JT's nacell inserts that are colored red to light it up nicely.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I carefully trimmed and applied metallic charcoal-colored graphic tape to the VA domes' raised ribs, then used a fine-point marker to add the "screws" in the center of each dome. _Tedious_ work, but worthwhile.

I'm still not entirely content with the inner domes. The red color seems too far from true, and I wish there were a way to simulate the multi-colored inner lights.

However, once the frosted clear orange outer domes are in place, I think (hope!) they should look good--the "backlit" fanblades should be visible, and the "glowing" red domes (which have reflective foil placed behind them) should add some sparkle and depth to the overall look, while still providing an accurate amber-orange look.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I look forward to seeing the final effect you get with those bussards.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Finished the second priming. Still needs a few touch-ups here and there, but most seams have been eliminated. I think a third round of filling/priming should do the trick.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Almost ready for a third priming.

After doing some more intensive research...

* The deflector dish does indeed appear to have one raised and one engraved ring.

* I'm pretty sure that the rings behind the dish did indeed remain the darker rust-copper color of the pilots, while the dish itself was repainted a slightly lighter cooper-ish color.



Also, I'm pretty sure that the amber-ish looking illuminated window on the dorsal is just due to uneven light distribution within the model. Some other windows on the saucer and secondary hull have a similar look in some shots.

However, the aftmost window on the secondary hull does indeed appear to have a greenish light--the same greenish color as the dome above the hangar doors. Hmmm. Could this be some kind of light spill from the upper dome, or a deliberate creative choice? Thoughts?

Same deal with the two small ports on the rear upper secondary hull, just forward of the greenish hangar beacon (on either side of the red light). Are they deliberately greenish, or is that just some light spill from the beacon?

Whatever the case, the Master Replicas model literalized both the amber and green windows.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

My guess would be light leak/spill in the areas you mentioned. Alot of stuff can happen to the lights with studio lights and blue screen blasting at the model. It would cast odd colors and shadows all over the place. Just my thought

My gut is that I would do it the way you would like to see it done, I don't think the MR model is literally accurate, or just as accurate as everyones own individual TOS kits have been over the years.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Third priming went well. Still a few imperfections to sterilize.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Almost ready for a fourth--and hopefully final--priming.

Also did some very nerve-wracking work:

The outer nacelle domes are a tight fit even on the stock kit. The metallic tape I added to the inner domes' ribs makes it an even tighter fit.

In order to get the outer domes to fit correctly, I had to VERY carelly Dremel the insides of the "collars" behind each clear dome in order to get the outer domes to fit correctly over the inner ones--without scratching/damaging the insides of the outer domes. Very tedious, but I was successful, and the domes now fit properly.

Due to the shiny clear plastic of the outer domes, the "glow" effect of the red resin inner domes isn't as apparent as it is without the outer domes. My hope is that the use of Dullcote during final painting will help rectify this. As long as I can see the dark metallic ribs beneath the frosted clear orange outer domes, I'll be happy. Any light effects from the inner domes will be a bonus.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Fourth priming went well. Looks like all seams are gone. I'm about ready to proceed. 

Next up:

* Paint the deflector rings and dish. Any color suggestions? I'm leaning toward a copper-rust mix for the rings and mounting post, and just copper for the dish.

* Paint the upper and lower saucer domes white, and the rear hangar beacon a light green-ish white.

* Mask the afforementioned domes and rings off and paint the entire model the base color. Still haven't decided if I'm going with Gull Gray, or will try mixing something a little closer to "Concrete".

* Paint the gray highlight areas. Haven't decided on a precise color yet. I know I'll be going slightly darker than my pilot builds, for which I used Dark Ghost Gray.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

I thought that the back of the deflector dish was silver while the front was a copper color.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

James Tiberius said:


> I thought that the back of the deflector dish was silver while the front was a copper color.


I used to think that too but the backside is actually copper like the front.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Painted the secondary hull rings and deflector post a copper-rust-black mix, and the dish itself a lighter copper-rust mix. Looks pretty good!


I've gotta say, though, I'm having problems with my cheapie airbrush. I'm not sure why, but sometimes it works fine, and at other times, I can't get it to spray anything. I'm not sure if I'm thinning the paint enough, thinning it too much, or running out of propellant. 

I'm not an airbrush expert by any means--any suggestions? It's frustrating to have it suddenly stop working in the middle of a coating. For example, I sprayed the front of the deflector dish, but when it came to the back, nothin. So, I had to hand-paint the rear of the dish. Very frustrating!


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

hmm, try wetting the tip of the airbrush with some thinner and try and get thinner or water running through your brush before you try paint. I'm no airbrushing expert, but that's all I can suggest. 
Remember your thinned paint should have the consistency of milk.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

You mentioned propellant are you using one of those plastic hose rigs with a cap attached to a bottle of canned air?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Yeah, I'm using canned air.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Gregatron said:


> Yeah, I'm using canned air.


Offhand I'd say that's probably the root cause of your problem with intemittent pressure drops.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Sprayed the upper and lower saucer domes flat white. Just need to find the right shade of green-ish white for the hangar beacon (any suggestions?), and then I'll mask off the domes and lights in preparation for applying the base color! 

Gotta say I'm really happy with the way the deflector dish assembly turned out, too. With the parts in place--and even only coated with primer--, she's beginning to look like The _Enterprise_.


As an aside, I picked up some 1/1000 shuttles to go along with this build, as a fun little side project. I acquired two different sets--one from Federation Models, and the other from Modular Models. Interesingly, the size difference between the two is rather substantial--1/4" for the Fed. shuttles, and about 3/8" for the Modular shuttles. I wonder which ones are closer to proper scale. Certainly the bigger Modular shuttles are better detailed, but they look a little big to me. Hmmm.


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## Larry523 (Feb 16, 2010)

By my calcuations, the Federation shuttles would come out to 20.83 feet, while the Modular ones come out to 31.25 feet. Given the differences between the sizes of the interior set, the full-scale mock-up, and the "flying" filming miniature, and the fact that none of them seem to work out to Kirk's oft-quoted 24 foot length, I'd say the Modular one probably comes out closer to what the "real" length probably should be, IMHO.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

Gregatron, I have been watching this thread (along with the previous ones) with some interest. Your posts have become inspiration for me to get moving on my Enterprise models as well. Thank you for taking the time to not only show us what you are doing, but also your research to determine why you chose to do things as you did. You are truly a gentleman and I really appreciate your efforts. Thank you.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Thanks! My rewards in all this are knowledge, having fun discussions with guys like you, and building myself some nice models!


Anyhoo, I'll need to give the saucer domes another coat of white. I tried drybrushing to hide some of the minor paint coverage problems (it looks like the paint I used was too thin/watery, and didn't cover the domes as well as I thought when I airbrushed them), but it didn't work too well. I'll smooth out the paint with superfine steel wool, and give 'em another coat.

Slow and steady wins the race. My instinct is to rush "fixit" jobs like this, but I've gotta stay patient and do it right. Too much has gone into this for me to screw it up.

In other news, I hand-painted the antenna spike silver, and touched up the deflector dish mounting post (to cover a tiny area that the airbrush missed) with a few dabs of copper-rust.


Still uncertain about the base color. I really like Gull Gray, and don't know if it's worth the effort to try and custom mix something closer to Concrete. Thoughts?


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Personally, at 1/1000 scale I think concrete would be too dark.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> Personally, at 1/1000 scale I think concrete would be too dark.


I concur. You'd want to lighten it up a bit at 1/1000 scale. You can see what I mean in post #2. I used a lighter mix of "concrete" for that build.

Here are a few more pics if you're interested:
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/Trekriffic/ISS Enterprise/IMG_1028.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/Trekriffic/ISS Enterprise/ISSEnterpriseBeautyShot.jpg


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Y'see, I don't think there's a major difference between Gull Gray and a custom mix like yours--at least, not enough to justify trying to replicate Concrete for this scale.

(Nice build, by the way. I'd seen it before, but just wanted to mention it.)


I'm a bit more focused on finding a good choice for the medium gray highlight areas. Gunship Gray, maybe? There definitely seems to have been a repaint for the production version of the model in those areas with a darker gray than the pilot versions had.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Some quick update photos. Still need to give the saucer domes another coat of white.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

That's looking sharp Gregatron. And I think you're right about a custom mix vs. Gull Gray. If the Gull Gray isn't too dark I'd use that as it has a nice olive cast to it. Or you could always add a little white to lighten it up. For the darker accent colors under the bussards, the impulse engines, and the front/back of the dorsal you might want to consider using a slightly darker shade of your base color-mix gull gray with medium gray for instance. I might suggest making the color inside the triangles on the underside of the saucer match the color on the dorsal. You don't want too high a contract though IMO.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I'll be using the PNT decals for the saucer triangles. I filled in the scribed markings, since they're inaccurate.

I'll also be using parts of spare PNT triangle decals to depict the tiny bits of marking that extend _below_ the raised rib-base of each triangle.

And, of course, I'll be using a light blue-gray color for the dorsal stripe. It appears that the medium gray color was misted onto the triangles for the real model (it's darker around the edges of each triangle, and lighter in the middle, which the decals replicate). Painting them the same color wouldn't be accurate, methinks!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

True...true... I bow to your extensive knowledge on the subject.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

These bloody saucer domes have been a real pain. For some reason, I haven't been able to get the airbrush to spray an even coat over them, and my attempts to touch them up with light drybrushing has made given the paint a lumpy, ugly look.


Very frustrated, here. I'm thinking I may have to strip the domes of paint and try again. Any thoughts on how to achieve this?


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

if you're doing translucent orange, i'd just dip them into the paint and let them dry so the paint drips off, giving a nice even orange coat.

I'm not sure what your color plans for them were but thats what I will be doing on my lighted production version.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I'm talking about the domes on the upper and lower saucer, which, as previously noted, I'm just trying to spray flat white!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

White on clear is very hard, as you know. you don't have access to the back any more, I would have said paint both sides. You might try stripping, then masking, then a few light coats of Tamiya or Mr. surfacer fine grey primer. Let dry for a few days then either Tamiya white primer or the flat white. That should work.

As always, nice work.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Did you say you were lighting the upper and lower domes? If not I would concur that you should strip them then cover them with primer before spraying them with a couple of light coats of white. Gives something for the paint to grab onto.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

As it happens, I'd already sprayed the domes with primer before applying the white.

But, going on a hunch, I found that ordinary Testors thinner (applied with a Q-Tip) stripped the paint from both domes easily, right down to the clear plastic.


So now, I just have to re-prime the saucer, then try applying the white again.

And, no, there's no lighting in this build.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Here's a thought. What if you masked all around the domes and then filled a bottlecap up with some thinned white paint and dipped the domes into the paint letting it run down to the center? You could wick any excess away with a piece of toweling if it was thin enough. Might have to dip it a few times to get good coverage.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Meh. I'd like to keep at it with the airbrush until I get it right. At least now I know how to easily strip the paint in case of any more problems. Thanks for the suggestions, though!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

For something this small, I'd just prime, buy a rattle can of flat white, either testers or tamiya. Mask, blast, and go. Bobs your uncle done in 10 min. 
But thats just me.

Mark


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Heck I'd think you could just brush it on if you got the paint consistency right and used a nice soft brush. Especially with enamels.


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## Trick2L (Apr 19, 2011)

Hello Gregatron, I am a new member here and are also working on this polar lights 1/1000 TOS Enterprise kit. One of the last things I have done in my build is paint the saucer domes. Used 3 parts Tamiya clear to one part Tamiya white gloss to get the milky white effect. 


I test spayed the parts a few times using Tamiya thinner in between tests to clean the parts of paint. Used a badger 105 Patriot at under 10 psi running off compressor. 

The under side of the domes are painted Tamiya clear yellow to give the slight illusion of a light source.


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## Trick2L (Apr 19, 2011)

pic's could not be attached to the last post due to being a nub here. so here is the results of the work i explained above.








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and here is a restoration pic of the enterprise to sort out the deflector dish ring issue. i know its late in the thread but i wanted to share it. 








[/IMG]


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Nice lookin' domes!

And that restoration photo, while nice, it's really a good reference, since the dish is a replacement fabricated for the restoration, in case you didn't know. The original dish was long since lost, even at that point.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Reprimed the saucer.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

Really enjoyed your previous builds and I am enjoying this one as well. My wife and I were talking about your builds and we were wondering if you were also going to do the mirror universe Enterprise or the Enterprise M from Of Gods and Men. Thanks for sharing all the work and research you've done with all of us.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Thanks!

No plans for other versions. I've sort of unintentionally stumbled into doing a "History of the _Enterprise_" series--First pilot, Second pilot, Production, TMP, Destroyed (TSFS), and 1701-A. Just the canonical versions alone are enough!

The Mirror version would be interesting, if only in terms of figuring out how to depict it (Second pilot, Production, or a mix? Non-canon Mirror markings, or not?).

I've never seen someone do a TAS version, which probably would not be too hard. No interest in the Remastered version, although that would be an interesting challenge. 

If I were to do another one of these, it would probably be a _Constellation_.



Anyhoo, I successfully coated the saucer domes with flat white. Just need to prepare to add the base color--finally!


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Looks like startrekhistory.com has finny updated its model section with some new images and info!

http://www.startrekhistory.com/models.html


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

I still dont' see a blue dorsal color. I think it looks great on your pilot models, I just don't see it on their pictures. 

Also the Series version seems to be the same overall color primary, neck, and secondary hull.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

As has been noted elsewhere, the startrekhistory.com photos have been color-corrected, and are therefore not necessarily reliable as color guides. I see blue in numerous period photos, and in the episodes themselves (usually when the composites are cleaner, and less blue-shifted). 

Using the red pennants and other details as a guide helps to figure out how correct the colors are in specific shots in the episodes. When the hull color and markings (which we do have confirmation on) are closer to true in various shots, the color of the dorsal becomes more apparent.

As for the series version, yes, the entire neck is the hull color, except for that stripe on the front (and startrekhistory.com says there's a stripe on the rear, too, but I don't see it).


Seriously, what color do you think the front of the dorsal is? Looks blue to me!


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Gregatron said:


> As has been noted elsewhere, the startrekhistory.com photos have been color-corrected, and are therefore not necessarily reliable as color guides. I see blue in numerous period photos, and in the episodes themselves (usually when the composites are cleaner, and less blue-shifted).
> 
> Using the red pennants and other details as a guide helps to figure out how correct the colors are in specific shots in the episodes. When the hull color and markings (which we do have confirmation on) are closer to true in various shots, the color of the dorsal becomes more apparent.
> 
> ...


"It's........it's..........it's blue!", to paraphrase Mr. Scott!!!!:thumbsup:


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

lol i stand corrected


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

While re watching some TOS blu ray episodes, I can see the blue strip in some shots and not others. You have to watch the original effects to see it, I have not seen it yet on any of the remastered shots. It's very subtle, but your converting me, for whatever that is worth.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

The Remastered CG model, of course, is not viable reference material for the original model! It has a number of unique quirks of its own.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

You are correct, I was just including the bit about the remastered E to be complete and emphasize the fact that you need too watch the original, un remastered episodes.


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## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

I remember part of the dorsal having that blue-ish cast to it in some scenes, but not in others, but then again...the original series did use blue screen photography to film the studio models. Maybe the blue is reflected off the blue screen onto the model from the lighting set up while cameras were rolling. Matte/blue screen photography only masks out the background, but not lighting flash back onto the model itself.

Just a thought...

Bryan


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I keep hearing this talk about bluescreen reflections spilling onto the model, which I think is complete bunk.

We can safely say it's a FACT that both the 33-inch and 11-foot models built for the first pilot had a blue-ish dorsal.

I can still see a (possibly toned-down) blue dorsal on the second pilot version, as well, particularly in some of the Blu-Ray episodes (like the original, unaired second pilot in the third season set).

Bluescreen spill on the model would result in "holes" in the model.

We can also safely say it's a FACT that there's a stripe on the production version's dorsal that is a different shade from the rest (which was definitely hull-colored at that point). Why would they bother painting it an entirely different color, like green or gray? If the second pilot dorsal was still blue (which it clearly appears to be), and that didn't interfere with the bluescreen work, then why repaint it?


I don't think it's at all a leap in logic to say it went like this:

First Pilot: Blue dorsal.










Second Pilot: Less shiny/toned-town blue dorsal.










Production: Dorsal repainted hull color, with original blue color retained on leading edge.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I have to agree. The leading edge on the production version certainly appears bluish in that shot.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Anyhoo...

* Still can't determine if the model had a tiny faux formation light on the underside of the secondary hull (on the "box" surrounding the deflector array) at the time of the series.

* Are the three mounting clips on the nacelles that hold the front domes in place hull-colored, or clear? They seem to look clear in some photos. I've also used a hobby knife to mark tiny holes in the kit's "clips" to simulate the mounting gear holding the domes on.

* I plan on using chrome tape (trimmed to shape and burnished down) for the inboard nacelle grilles. But, in some reference shots, they look rather dark, rather than aluminum (as in the B & W publicity, pre-production photos, for example). Thoughts?


I also shaved down the hangar deck beacon to make it more in-scale. Looks much better, now! And I reshaped the three shields on each front nacelle endcap piece so that the angled sections look a bit more accurate.

I've gotta say, those nacelle caps are the worst part of the kit--getting them to fit correctly over the inner domes is a pain, and the shape/fit of the shield pieces is way off.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I believe the dome mounting clips were not clear. I think they were/are metal color. I think thats what the photo's on the old IDIC page and the Smith before the new paint job.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

Just wondering if you've made any progress so far... Enjoying the heck out of this thread


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Been a bit busy. Going on a two-week vacation starting next week, so I'll have a lot of time to work on this, though.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

About ready to dive back into this. Need to spray the insides of the outer nacelle domes clear orange, then it's on to the base color.

In the meantime, I've been working on the 1/1000 shuttles from both Modular Models and Federation Models. Very tiny work! I've still got some more decaling to do, and I fear I may go cross-eyed!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I remember scratching a 1/650 scale TOS shuttle when I built the hangar inside my 18" Enterprise. I can't imagine working on 1/1000 scale shuttles. 
Hope you have a good magnifier!


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Disaster.

Tried spraying the insides of the outer nacelle domes with Testors clear acrylic orange, but it was too watery to stick well--I only just learned that it doesn't really need to be thinned for airbrushing.

I tried brushing it on, but the results were messy and inconsistent. I tried removing it with alcohol, and the whole thing became an absoulte mess. I scrapped the parts, and ordered a few more spares from Round 2.

True, this is not at all an undoable setback, but it was the final straw in terms of my growing attitude toward this build.


It is with great reluctance that I've decided to start over. From scratch. This build has been going very well, overall, but there have been a few too many compromises, errors, and redos. It has served as an excellent learning curve--my next attempt will benefit greatly from the lessons learned here.

Not to say that the model is a mess or anything--it's just that I'm being exceptionally perfectionistic on this project (much moreso than my two pilot builds), and there are a number of things I'm not happy with. A few areas sanded out of their proper shape, a few seams not quite filled right, etc.

For starters, while the "glowing" inner nacelle dome look of my in-progress model is very neat, I'm simply not satisfied with it. I fear that the red-tinted clear domes would overpower the outer domes and their clear orange tint. And, as we now know, the glowing red nacelle domes are something of an urban legend that's existed ever since the first NASM restoration.

I believe that I can better replicate the look of the TOS engine domes after all of the experimentation this build has provided. I know that I've hit on something solid with the use of the metallic charcoal tape for the fan blades. I'm also determined to replicate the look of the tiny christmas lights inside the domes--just a subtle impression of those tiny dots of light visible through the orange-tinted outer domes would work.

I still believe that backing the stock kit's clear inner domes (possibly left clear and unpainted?) with reflective discs --topped by tiny, multi-colored "lights"--would be the best way to simulate the effect. The red-tinted VA Miniatures domes (backed by metal foil) reflect light well, but only from a few angles--at other angles, they go dark, and you can't even see the fan blades. 

Any suggestions on this little nacelle dome project would be appreciated. All of the other detailing on the model I pretty much have in the bag at this point, but simulating the beautiful effect of the real model on a static, 1/1000 scale model to my satisfaction has been the big challenge of this build.


I've also come to the conclusion that the biggest problem with this kit is the nacelle dome assembly--the fit of the outer domes over the inner domes is way too snug, and makes the whole process very difficult. Second, the decision to have the nacelle dome "collars" cast in clear styrene and attached to the domes was a mistake, I think. Keeping the clear domes as separate parts would have made things easier in terms of attachment and correcting the shape of the nacelle "shield" pieces (which are far too fragile as clear parts).


Anyway, for this next attempt, I'm going to go _really_ slow. And solicit as much advice as possible, even for the simplest things (like seam-filling and such). 

I've worked and waited a long time for my ultimate _Enterprise_, and barring a future 1/350 effort down the line (assuming such a kit ever comes out from R2 or some other company), I intend for this model to be truly satisfying--no compromises, no "if only"s.

I the meantime, I fully intend to finish this current build--it just won't be the _Enterprise_. I could repurpose it any number of ways--I haven't decided what she'll be, just yet.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

I'm planning on lighting mine, so this might sound a tad different than yours, but I completely shaved off the raised edges of the inner dome, and cut off the locating pin on the outer dome which really keeps the domes from fitting. 

As for the orange outer dome. I lightly sanded the outside of the dome and gave it an opaque outside, then sprayed with Tamiya clear orange from a rattle can in very fine fine mistings, and then I painted the inner dome clear red and light blocked the orange with some wax paper to give a less reddish orange glow.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I also removed the locator pins, but the fit has been a pain. Perhaps the VA domes' ribs are thicker than the stock domes', or perhaps the added thickness of the metallic tape added to the fit problems (although I removed a lot of dome material on the rear section, to help with the fit.

Got any photos of your build?

My gut feeling just tells me that, in a non-lit kit, red inner domes will look "wrong", even with frosted clear orange outer domes. White domes with the dark ribs, or clear domes with the ribs seem to be the way to go.

After all, the original model apparently had clear inner domes with the ribs painted on. Backing clear inner domes with reflective material that will catch the light (diffused by the frosted outer domes) should provide the look I seek, right?


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Hey,

I used the VA Miniatures red inner parts and it looks pretty good with amber painted outer domes. I think I put on the amber a little too thick though.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Gorgeous!


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## Bobj812 (Jun 15, 2009)

Holy cow! That looks great!


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Fantastic build, there. And I agree about the amber--the domes look almost entirely opaque, so you can't see the inner ribs very well.

That's the trick to this; the domes need to look the right color, but the inner details should also be visible--but not TOO visible.


Is that a grid I see on the saucer, as well? How'd ya do that?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Hmmmm.

With the announcement of the 1/350 Round 2 model, maybe my "ultimate" _Enterprise_ is waiting somewhere down the road...


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

it is possible that your "ultimate" E is down the road, but I am still looking forward to seeing this one finished up. ;-)


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

One of the things I like about models such is yours is the hull colour---it looks more right. One thing I rather disliked about the TOS-R is the _E's_ hull colour often looks way too dark.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

scottnkat said:


> it is possible that your "ultimate" E is down the road, but I am still looking forward to seeing this one finished up. ;-)



Oh, don't worry--I'll get there.


Just bought two more 1/1000 kits. I can always use some spare parts, or I may do a _Constellation_.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Warped9 said:


> One of the things I like about models such is yours is the hull colour---it looks more right. One thing I rather disliked about the TOS-R is the _E's_ hull colour often looks way to dark.


Totally agree. I believe I read over at culttvman's gallery page for this build of KUROK's that he used Gull Gray, which is also my preferred color.

I really do think I'll stick with that color, as opposed to a custom mix--it seems to match the gray-green look of the original very well (while appearing somewhat lighter than Concrete, and thus replicating the scale effect at 1/1000 very nicely).


Really getting excited about the 1/350 model, too. Don't really have the space for it, but matching 1/350 TOS and Refit models--fully pimped out with lights and such--is the big dream for me. Someday...


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

By the way, KUROK, did you spray the insides or the outsides of the domes amber?

I've been stuck on the idea of painting the insides clear orange, then frosting the outsides. Maybe I should reconsider that. Not sure how much of a difference it would make in the overall look.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Thanks! Yes I sprayed the outside amber, just put on too much. I did use gloss gull gray and tried to do some grid lines in pencil but it doesn't work well on gloss. Next time I'll use a flat coat first... Good luck on yours. Keep us posted!


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

Gregatron said:


> Fantastic build, there. And I agree about the amber--the domes look almost entirely opaque, so you can't see the inner ribs very well.
> 
> That's the trick to this; the domes need to look the right color, but the inner details should also be visible--but not TOO visible.
> 
> ...


Quite a while ago, I picked up a set of saucer guideline decals for both the 1/1000 and the 18 inch Enterprise from I think CultTVMan (I hope I got his name right), you could check his store to see if he still has any. I don't know if the grid lines on the model above are the details though as there seemed to be a slight rust ring near the front of the decals. The decals were also only for the top of the saucer.

I like what you did with the red domes on the front of the nacelles. I screwed up my 1/1000 Enterprise so I am in the process of converting it to a Scout/Destroyer. I also didn't like the fit of the clear outer dome over the inner dome, so I just eliminated the inner dome and glued on and trimmed some plastic to the front of the nacelle and painted it gold, although I don't think that's necessary. Then I had some gold foil from a candy bar that was slightly textured, I crumpled it up (not too tight) and then pushed it into the clear dome and trimmed off any that was sticking out at and then glued it in place. I tried some clear orange over the outside, but it just didn't look right with the gold foil, so I remove the clear orange and used clear red, that didn't look too bad the gold foil. Being crumpled up, different areas would reflect light differently. Maybe gluing them some aluminum foil strips before its crumpled up would give even more light reflections? At least you get extra nacelles and extra clear outer domes so there's something to practice with.

I like what you've done with your models and this is a really good and informative thread.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I did indeed pick up some Acreation saucer grid decals, but I think drawn-on grids and a pastel-chalk rust ring would look more natural. Also, aligning such big decals (even cut into pieces) and avoiding silvering might be a lot of trouble.


I also recently sorted all of my extra parts into "production" and "pilot" baggies--it's a huge amount of spare bits and pieces! Nacelles, domes, dishes, you name it!


Anyhoo, here are my recently-completed 1/1000 shuttles from both Federation and Modular Models:


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

Damn, those are small!!


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## slingshot392 (Nov 27, 2008)

Gregatron said:


> I did indeed pick up some Acreation saucer grid decals, but I think drawn-on grids and a pastel-chalk rust ring would look more natural. Also, aligning such big decals (even cut into pieces) and avoiding silvering might be a lot of trouble.
> 
> 
> I also recently sorted all of my extra parts into "production" and "pilot" baggies--it's a huge amount of spare bits and pieces! Nacelles, domes, dishes, you name it!
> ...


Man, those things are tiny!

Yeah, you do get a lot of extra parts with them. I was thinking of using a couple of the nacelles and scaling Shuttle plans to fit them for a scratch build job. Wouldn't be completely accurate, but I have the AMT Shuttle, and that one will take as much or more scratch building to do.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I've begun work on Ultimate 1/1000 _Enterprise_ Version 2.0.

Already, in these early stages, I'm moving faster and easier than I did the last time. 

Removed all parts from sprues and cleaned with dishwashing agent.

Began sanding down rough edges, and test-fitting. 




Meanwhile, I'll be adding the base coat to the Version 1.0 model very soon. This model will serve as an excellent test run for finishing techniques.



I also put in a reservation for the 1/350 model. Why not? When I eventually have the time and space, I want to build one of those bad boys, fully tricked-out. And all of this 1/1000 work will have served as excellent practice.

And I hope all of my 1/1000 work will help those who also work on the 1/350 kits! That is the whole point of this project, after all--to broaden all of our horizons regarding our favorite starship.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Finally applied the base color for Version 1.0, now the U.S.S. Doesn't Have a Name Yet.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Painted the medium gray highlight colors. Still getting the hang of proper masking and using the airbrush. Turned out pretty well. The experience will prove most useful for the next version.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Gregatron said:


> Painted the medium gray highlight colors. Still getting the hang of proper masking and using the airbrush. Turned out pretty well. The experience will prove most useful for the next version.


She is looking beautiful......a fine tribute to the Grand Lady! (Are those the grid lines in the lower sensor dome I see? Well done!)


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Yes, I scribed the lines in the lower dome.


Still dunno what to call this one. I'm currently leaning toward _Yorktown_ or _Defiant_.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Gregatron said:


> Yes, I scribed the lines in the lower dome.
> 
> 
> Still dunno what to call this one. I'm currently leaning toward _Yorktown_ or _Defiant_.


If it is worth anything, I like Yorktown! :thumbsup:


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

RSN said:


> If it is worth anything, I like Yorktown! :thumbsup:


Me, too. :wave:


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Yorktown!*

I'd go with Yorktown myself. Be a fitting tribute to the original name for the Starship Enterprise as penned by Gene Roddenberry.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Nice!


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

As I said before...Yorktown. :thumbsup:


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Sprayed on the blue(!)-gray dorsal stripe.

Painting is pretty much done, now.


On to the gridlines and weathering. Any tips for the grid? I'm planning on using the pencil/protractor method.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Yep. I've always used the old pencil and protractor method myself.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Applied the gridlines and pastel chalk weathering--didn't put too much labor into the effort--I'm going for more of an effect on this one. And, since this model has been demoted from being called "Enterprise", I can afford to be a little more quick-and-dirty. I decided to make the gridlines very faint (partly because I had trouble applying them neatly), and emphasized the weathering.

Also applied a glosscoat to seal the chalk and pencil down. My first time airbrushing gloss, so we'll see how well the decals adhere.

Steps remaining:

1. Apply chrome tape (cut to fit and burnished down) to nacelle inboard grilles.

2. Install reactor loops onto nacelles.

3. Decal.

4. Seal decals.

5. Add final details (tiny formation lights, etc.).


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Been decaling. It's been going pretty well, although I'm not taking as much time as I will with the Enterprise. A few problems, here and there. I don't think the glosscoat was heavy enough. A bit of silvering is already evident. I'm laying on the Solvaset pretty heavily, so we'll see how it turns out.

Maybe I'll try Future next time?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Finished decaling. Still a few loose ends (final gloss/clearcoats, detailing the nacelles and domes, etc.), and this one'll be done.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Almost done with this build. Just a few more touches, then a final matte coat.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

cool - can't wait to see it - I love watching your builds


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Done! This one turned out very well. After I decided that it wouldn't be the _Enterprise_, I did kind rush the final detailing (resulting in some paint issues and slight decal misalignments), but still used the build to try a few things out.

Some notes for review:

* I definitely need to take my time with the gridlines. Or maybe I'll use Acreation's decals. Getting the right look for the grids is perhaps the most difficult part of this design at this scale (especially since they wouldn't really be visible in 1/1000)...

*...except for the front nacelle domes. While these turned out pretty well, I still need work to perfect my technique. I think I slightly over-frosted them with dullcote. Also, since these were last-minute replacements, the overall fit and appearance isn't as good as it could be.

* I even added the tiny phaser nipple thingy to the lower saucer's sensor dome with Micro Krystal Kleer and a tiny dab of clear red. It's very hard to see in the photos, but it looks spot-on.

* Very little decal silvering this time around.

* I used one of Thomas Sasser's tips, and burnished chrome tape over the inboard nacelle grilles--it looks good, but my technique needs work. There are some unever areas and bumps, despite heavy burnishing. Any tips?

The lighting conditions weren't the best when I took these photos, but I figured some people might be anxious to see how this one turned out:




























http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff147.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff151.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff148.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff158.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff146.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff165.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff160.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff157.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff156.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff155.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff154.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff153.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g212/GregKirkman/Stuff161.jpg


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Niiiiiiice! And you got the pie slices in the lower sensor dome! Whooooha! Congratulations! Well done!


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

looks great - thanks so much for sharing


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Very Nice and I luv the way that kit photographs, it always looks much bigger in scale than it actually is. A testimony to the fine accuracy of the model.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I'm considering trying Tamiya's Weathering Master sets for my final _Enterprise_--any thoughts on that? I'm looking for something a bit more controllable than the ground-up pastels I've been using, since I'd like to replicate the weathering as accurately as possible, right down to the various patches of discoloration and tiny streaks on the saucer.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Only recommend to be subtle. In this scale it should be BARELY noticeable at all.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

That's the plan.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Very nicely done!:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Gregatron said:


>


Oh, that is so perfectly pretty!:thumbsup: Love it!!!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Those are really nice pics but I'd like to see a shot from this angle:










Love this pic!


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

This isn't close enough?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

It's close. 

Just up and to the right a wee bit more. 

You want to be looking just a little above deadon to the rim. So the port bussard's arc intersects the upper bridge dome.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> It's close.
> 
> Just up and to the right a wee bit more.
> 
> You want to be looking just a little above deadon to the rim. So the port bussard's arc intersects the upper bridge dome.


I agree.

Wow. We ARE picky!!!:thumbsup::freak:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> I agree.
> 
> Wow. We ARE picky!!!:thumbsup::freak:


Picky??? Nope! Just anal.:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Picky??? Nope! Just anal.:thumbsup:


Starfleet engineers are that way.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I think this thread can attest to that!


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Updated the blog with some musings on this latest build.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

It's gonna be awhile before I give this another shot--but there's still always time for R & D.

That said, Gary Kerr has confirmed the red and green windows and the mesh/vent dorsal windows, as well as the supposed upper saucer bow light.

While I do NOT want this to be a continuation of the whole 1/350 gridlines trainwreck, I do think this recent bits deserve some more (CIVIL!!!!) research and discussion.


So, thoughts? Could the bow light really have been a translucent area, like the upper saucer rectangles? The main photo Gary presented as evidence IS from apparent pre-production photos (no fanblades on the engines, saucer underside registries in pilot orientation, etc.). 

Could it be that the "port" was painted over with the hull color before or during production, or was it just never lit up very well (in addition to being partially covered with weathering)?


And let me remind once again that this is not a discussion about the 1/350 kit--just theories and study of the original model. So let's keep it that way, 'kay?


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

I have no first hand knowledge, but if I apply common sense to the information posted on it, I come to some conclusions.....which are probably wrong! I could see a hole being drilled, out of the wood making up the saucer bow section, to allow access to the light for the forward sensor lights. To fill it, a circulr plug was cut, using the same translucent plastic they were using to make the rectangular "Skylights". It may or may not have been painted the hull color, but it was weathered in the same pattern as the hull around it. This leads me to think it may not have been intended to be a light, just an access port blended into the hull. Again, just my take on since it was a visible circle seen on screen, but it's luminosity was never established.:thumbsup:


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Gary also recently mentioned that the production dorsal had a gray-green stipe, rather than blue, as I theorized. Hmm!

But I still contend that the entire dorsal was blue in the pilots!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Just reread this thread. You did a marvelous job on this build Gregatron. I'm working on my 1/1000 production Enterprise right now. It will have lit bussards, saucer domes, and running lights. Can you give me more information on how you got the pie slice effect in the lower saucer dome?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Very careful scribing using a hobby knife to achieve straight lines. Just center the knife at the angle you want to scribe, then rock it gently back and forth to create a light depression/guideline that can be used as to scribe deeper lines.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

So you scribed lines on the dome's external surface then? Interesting. I'm going to try something a little different as my domes are painted with fluorescent white acrylic on the inside.


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