# The new 1/537 Refit Enterprise re-pop is real nice



## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

Just picked up one of these. The detail that got 'added in' after the smoothie version doesn't seem to be as bad as I recall. In fact... it looks pretty nice. Is my memory going or have they cleaned this mold up? 

Nice kit in general. The box art is nice, the new decal sheet is spectacular. I really like the new big base with the metal rod. 

Heckuva kit for only thirty two bucks.


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

I've got it and even though it's not the correct Aztec I like the detail too.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Far as we know it's the same old molds with the same old wrong paneling detail. All PL did was repop it to make some moolah.


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## krlee (Oct 23, 2016)

In the past I have seen people troweling on lots of putty to smooth over the incorrect panels, that is not necessary. Simply start with 200 to 400 grit sandpaper and sand away the panel details, leaving them just barely visible. Then, using 600 to 1000 grit wet sanding paper, remove the last traces of the incorrect details and bring back the smooth look of the original 1979 "smoothie" kit!


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Real nice?? Way to many inaccuracies unless you like a challenging build


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

krlee said:


> In the past I have seen people troweling on lots of putty to smooth over the incorrect panels, that is not necessary. Simply start with 200 to 400 grit sandpaper and sand away the panel details, leaving them just barely visible. Then, using 600 to 1000 grit wet sanding paper, remove the last traces of the incorrect details and bring back the smooth look of the original 1979 "smoothie" kit!



You say 'simply,' but that's a LOT of sanding. Oh,my aching injured shoulder! :lol:


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

John P said:


> You say 'simply,' but that's a LOT of sanding. Oh,my aching injured shoulder! :lol:



*John P*, I totally sympathize... that being said, I must agree with *krlee, *if you've got the gumption, the tiling can be sanded away, I am using a 1/537 Enterprise saucer in my 1/537 Reliant build (old project) where I used putty to smooth out the lower hull, and completely sanded off the tiling on the upper hull. Looks great but it was a lot of scrubbing, so it's not for the faint of heart. I suppose it all depends on how desperate you are to get that smooth look, if you're trying to build the whole kit, that's a heck of a lot more sanding than just the saucer, and what happens if you accidentally sand away some detail, or round off an edge that is supposed to be sharp? Challenges abound... even _*if*_ you decide to use putty to fill, you're still going to end up sanding, but perhaps not as much... I have an original smoothie and paid the extra few dollars for it just so I wouldn't have to do that much sanding, but I have another tiled one that I plan on bashing into some type of dreadnought or something like that in the future, and even then, I plan on using 1/537 Reliant engines for that, so I won't have to deal with the tiling on them, at least. 



*Edit: I did not use the upper saucer from Enterprise, only the lower saucer, my bad! I sanded off the raised features of Reliant's upper hull to get it as smooth as possible. You can still see the tiling filled in with putty in the images of the lower saucer.


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## eagledocf15 (Nov 4, 2008)

What is the best putty or filler material for the Enterprise 1/537th kit? I am planning on doing one and I think fill and sand is far better. Too much labor and detail loss risk for the sanding only option.
Options
1) Evergreen plastic followed by putty
2) Just putty 
a. Tamiya putty
b. Vallejo putty
c. Perfect plastic putty
d. Milliput
e. Bondo
f. other putty options
3) Stretched sprue and then putty
Advice requested.


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## krlee (Oct 23, 2016)

eagledocf15 said:


> What is the best putty or filler material for the Enterprise 1/537th kit? I am planning on doing one and I think fill and sand is far better. Too much labor and detail loss risk for the sanding only option.
> Options
> 1) Evergreen plastic followed by putty
> 2) Just putty
> ...


If I were going to use putty of any kind on this kit it would be the Bondo Glazing and Spot putty. It is very easy to work with, actually bonds to styrene and abs plastic so it is unlikely to lift after applying masking tape. It also dries fairly quick when applied thin.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

*krlee *that's the very stuff I used to fill the panel lines with on my Reliant/Enterprise lower saucer hull swap. works just as good as you say, but it does have minor shrinking issues, at least, I've experienced it. The secret is just to trowel on more, and keep sanding...but yeah, it holds on like grim death and won't crack easily.



I've also had very good success with Tamiya white putty thinned with lacquer thinner. I simply brush on a layer, let it cure, brush on another, etc. until the defect is properly covered, then sand. It wet sands very nicely. It hasn't shrunk on me yet and it's easy to work with, thinned or not. A bit messy, but then most putties are, I find.


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

I've seen people just stick the correct Aztec details on top without sanding or filling and I thought it looked good. That's what I'm doing with mine.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Bondo or squadron white putty would be your best bet. When I use the squadron putty I leave the puttied piece near an open window for 2-3hours and it's ready to be sanded.
Stayaway from the perfect plastic putty and the vallejo because in my opinion they take way to long to dry.


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## eagledocf15 (Nov 4, 2008)

*Putty*



whiskeyrat said:


> *krlee *that's the very stuff I used to fill the panel lines with on my Reliant/Enterprise lower saucer hull swap. works just as good as you say, but it does have minor shrinking issues, at least, I've experienced it. The secret is just to trowel on more, and keep sanding...but yeah, it holds on like grim death and won't crack easily.
> 
> 
> I've also had very good success with Tamiya white putty thinned with lacquer thinner. I simply brush on a layer, let it cure, brush on another, etc. until the defect is properly covered, then sand. It wet sands very nicely. It hasn't shrunk on me yet and it's easy to work with, thinned or not. A bit messy, but then most putties are, I find.


Thanks to everyone!!
I have used Squadron putty and I have had ok results and some horrible disasters!
Whiskey Rat: Which lacquer thinner do you use? I assume it is the Tamiya Lacquer thinner, but I want to be sure.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

eagledocf15 said:


> Thanks to everyone!!
> I have used Squadron putty and I have had ok results and some horrible disasters!
> Whiskey Rat: Which lacquer thinner do you use? I assume it is the Tamiya Lacquer thinner, but I want to be sure.



*eagledoc15*, I have a can of plain old store brand lacquer thinner, nothing fancy. Lacquer thinner is lacquer thinner, you don't need any particular brand, unless you _want_ a particular brand for whatever reason of course. 



As an aside but related to this discussion, wherever I can I like to use plastic to fill gaps and spaces, minimizing as much as possible my usage of putty. On something like the paneling on the Enterprise kit however, there's simply too much of it to consider laying plastic down, so putty/sand is the only real alternative in this particular case. Or, just sand it all off and skip the putty altogether, which is a perfectly reasonable alternative. Either way you're gonna get a case of bursitis in your elbow and shoulder from the repetitive motion...



For me, my number one concern is the shrinkage that I get when using Squadron putties and similar. So, even using the red body-filler putty, I typically will do at least two or maybe three applications before I am satisfied that it can't shrink down into that crevice any further, because there's so much packed in there now.


I also use two different water-based two-part epoxy putties, which I reserve not for filling small cracks and gaps (although sometimes yes but rarely) but rather for re-shaping large areas and building up thickness on thin parts. Aves is great, cures hard as a rock, but can be difficult to manipulate until you get some practice with it and a feel for how to work the material. The second water based filler is a Japanese product, Wave is the brand, and it is called "light type epoxy putty" and can be found online here. It cures within 3 hours, is water based, about the same density of most polystyrene when cured, is easy to sand, easy to carve, and also holds on to plastic like grim death as long as the surface has been scuffed or sanded to give it some tooth to bite on. Both of those are entirely different creatures from the Squadron, Tamiya, etc. type one-part fillers, and have very different handling characteristics.


All of that said, what would I do if I wanted to get a smoothie Enterprise from a tiled kit? Sand it, skip the putty. It's just another step you don't need. Just be careful to not destroy any detail while you're scrubbing furiously at the parts and you should be ok. Except for the bursitis.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I had read that Perfect Plastic Putty had no shrinkage? I have never tried it. Is this the reason for the long drying time? Does it also bond to polystyrene?

Regarding sanding, can controlled use of a Dremel sand off the outer tiling? Would it be reliable? Or would the depth of sanding not be exact enough for it to work?


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Yes PPP does bond to polystyrene, don't know why it takes so long to dry though. Forgot to mention last night the good thing about PPP and Valejo putties is they can be applied an soothed using ones finger tips so sanding may not e needed.
Back when I sanded off all that extra paneling on the refit I placed pieces of masking tape over detailing like the botanical garden windows on the lower hull and when sanding very carefully close to the windows.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

charonjr said:


> I had read that Perfect Plastic Putty had no shrinkage? I have never tried it. Is this the reason for the long drying time? Does it also bond to polystyrene?
> 
> Regarding sanding, can controlled use of a Dremel sand off the outer tiling? Would it be reliable? Or would the depth of sanding not be exact enough for it to work?



*charonjr *I would think that a Dremel would be too sloppy and concentrated, versus a square of sandpaper about 3"x3". I suppose if you have the skill for it, but personally I would not try it for fear of digging too deep in some spots and having to go back and fill anyway. I'm not a fan of PPP, it tends to soften up and break apart if you wet sand it, (I did a quick experiment not too long ago and the PPP actually washed away completely after I had let it cure for a day) but I have seen several folks on Hobbytalk use it with impressive results, so I guess it's all in the technique.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I bought a tube of the Perfect Plastic Putty a few years ago to try on my first 22" eagle model. It had dried up inside the tube and was useless. So, I went back to the automotive red spot putty or homemade plastic putty. Since then, I have tried the Vallejo putty and have liked it.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

The tube of PPP I've got tends to dry if not used for a while and what I'll do is put a few drops of water into the tube and let the putty absorb the water and it's good to go again. To bad it's in a tube instead of a jar or small tub, it old be easier to keep moist.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

For those who want to add putty to get rid of the goofy Aztec detail...….

Remember, in order to add these panels, they had to cut more metal out of the tool. Increasing the thickness anywhere they added these tiles.

If you want to return to the smoothie as close as possible, you need to sand without adding the putty.

I suggest to anyone attempting this, prime with a color that has good contrast from the plastic.
This will show you your progress.
Once you get close, spray with more primer and go to a finer grade of sand paper and repeat until you get it the way you like it. 

On a side note...…
To me, the texture of these panels reminds me of stone blocks.
I've often thought of painting a Enterprise, embracing this stone panel look and creating the 'Castle Enterprise'.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

ClubTepes said:


> For those who want to add putty to get rid of the goofy Aztec detail...….
> 
> Remember, in order to add these panels, they had to cut more metal out of the tool. Increasing the thickness anywhere they added these tiles.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reminder. :thumbsup: Very good point to bring up that I hadn't really thought about. The adding of panels actually went deeper into the 1/537th refit molds altering the proportions whereas the _removal _of grid lines on the 1/350th STOS 1701 kept the same proportions--just wound up filling in the lines.


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## eagledocf15 (Nov 4, 2008)

Thank you everyone! A lot of good advice. i am going to try a trial on a couple plastic trial sheets with grooves.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Trek Ace said:


> I bought a tube of the Perfect Plastic Putty a few years ago to try on my first 22" eagle model. It had dried up inside the tube and was useless. So, I went back to the automotive red spot putty or homemade plastic putty. Since then, I have tried the Vallejo putty and have liked it.





irishtrek said:


> Yes PPP does bond to polystyrene, don't know why it takes so long to dry though. Forgot to mention last night the good thing about PPP and Valejo putties is they can be applied an soothed using ones finger tips so sanding may not e needed.
> Back when I sanded off all that extra paneling on the refit I placed pieces of masking tape over detailing like the botanical garden windows on the lower hull and when sanding very carefully close to the windows.



*TrekAce*... _homemade_ plastic putty? Please elaborate? Also how is the Vallejo putty compared to, say, Tamiya White? Or other putties you've used?



*irishtrek* same question about the Vallejo... what are it's characteristics? Very curious...


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

The Vallejo is about as thick as ketchup and can be smoothed out using your fingers, what I do is let it dry over night.
Same with the PPP for drying.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

irishtrek said:


> The Vallejo is about as thick as ketchup and can be smoothed out using your fingers, what I do is let it dry over night.
> Same with the PPP for drying.



*irishtrek* is the Vallejo water based, like PPP, I assume? What happens if you wet sand it, will it break up like I've experienced with PPP?


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

That is odd to me, that PPP, after drying and, supposedly, bonding to the plastic, remains sufficiently water soluble enough to come off! That's not something you see in a water soluble epoxy. Once cured, I have never had issues with it getting wet and debonding or dissolving. I haven't tried wet sanding it. I use epoxy, typically, for repairs around the house or outside. Seems resistant to Arizona's harsh UV light and torrential monsoon rains.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

charonjr said:


> That is odd to me, that PPP, after drying and, supposedly, bonding to the plastic, remains sufficiently water soluble enough to come off! That's not something you see in a water soluble epoxy. Once cured, I have never had issues with it getting wet and debonding or dissolving. I haven't tried wet sanding it. I use epoxy, typically, for repairs around the house or outside. Seems resistant to Arizona's harsh UV light and torrential monsoon rains.



*charonjr* I had the same reaction when it happened! I was under the impression that the PPP would bond chemically to the plastic (like cement does) but instead I found that it is simply grabbing the plastic, not really reacting with and becoming part of it, like Tamiya or Squadron does. After I let a clump of PPP cure for a day on the end of a plastic strip, I started gently wiping at it with a cotton swab, and after about a minute or so the PPP started to moisten and de-bond. I was able to completely wash it off the plastic strip under the tap, and there were no traces of a chemical bond on the plastic. That being said, the odds of your model being doused in water and all the PPP you've used on it come washing off are vanishingly small, so no real danger there. For me personally, I am uncomfortable with the idea of a filler that is not bonded to the plastic. I typically will perform three or four putty applications during any given part of a build, so I want my putty to STAY stuck to my work during repeated handling, wet-sanding, etc. I guess, more than anything, it's the prohibition of wet-sanding that makes PPP a non-starter for me. Without wet sanding I would have to change my whole technique and approach to how I finish the surfaces on most of my builds, and that's not something I'm willing to do just for a product that calls itself "perfect."


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

whiskeyrat said:


> *irishtrek* is the Vallejo water based, like PPP, I assume? What happens if you wet sand it, will it break up like I've experienced with PPP?


I don't know if it's water based or not but the label says 100 % acrylic resin and it comes in the same size bottle as their paints.
Also PPP is just as thick as the squadron putty.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Well, there we go. Acrylic resin wouldn't bond with plastic. It's like asking epoxy to bond to polypropylene. There's no electron orbitals to exchange with. You can roughen up the surfaces to be joined so that they have "tooth", which is what the epoxy with use to hold onto the surface. Superglue is the same way. There is no chemical bonding to the surface material itself, unlike a polystyrene glue.


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## Wulfhound (Mar 29, 2019)

SUNGOD said:


> I've seen people just stick the correct Aztec details on top without sanding or filling and I thought it looked good. That's what I'm doing with mine.


That had occurred to me also, but have not seen any pics of how that looks. Let us know how that comes out! I am brushing up on my skills by working up all the Enterprise scale models until reaching the 1:350. Not sure if I want to put all the time into sanding.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

whiskeyrat said:


> *charonjr* I had the same reaction when it happened! I was under the impression that the PPP would bond chemically to the plastic (like cement does) but instead I found that it is simply grabbing the plastic, not really reacting with and becoming part of it, like Tamiya or Squadron does. After I let a clump of PPP cure for a day on the end of a plastic strip, I started gently wiping at it with a cotton swab, and after about a minute or so the PPP started to moisten and de-bond. I was able to completely wash it off the plastic strip under the tap, and there were no traces of a chemical bond on the plastic. That being said, the odds of your model being doused in water and all the PPP you've used on it come washing off are vanishingly small, so no real danger there. For me personally, I am uncomfortable with the idea of a filler that is not bonded to the plastic. I typically will perform three or four putty applications during any given part of a build, so I want my putty to STAY stuck to my work during repeated handling, wet-sanding, etc. I guess, more than anything, it's the prohibition of wet-sanding that makes PPP a non-starter for me. Without wet sanding I would have to change my whole technique and approach to how I finish the surfaces on most of my builds, and that's not something I'm willing to do just for a product that calls itself "perfect."


It makes me glad that I live in a desert. I bought some PPP, which I haven't used yet. Twice a year, the monsoons hit us and humidity goes way up. Areas of the country that have humidity year round, could cause real trouble with PPP, if it can absorb moisture straight from the air. Would a flat coat seal it?


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

*charonjr *I don't think that PPP will absorb moisture from the air once it's cured, and I am sure that a clear coat of flat or gloss would seal it. Just to clarify, I am not a fan of PPP because it doesn't chemically bond to the plastic and is too crumbly and brittle, once it's cured, for my taste. I have seen other folks on HT use it with no small degree of success, so I am not pretending to offer some expert advice backed up by years of research and experience. In places where I _*would*_ use a one-part filler like PPP, (small cracks and gaps) I much prefer Tamiya White Putty, sometimes thinned with lacquer thinner and brushed on in stages. I like the Wave putty much more than PPP because once it's cured, it is _*solid*_, and absolutely will not react with anything ever again, including water, even if dunked in a tub full of it. For me, the brittle, crumbly nature of PPP gets me scared of future cracking/fracturing due to age or handling. It's just not a chance I am willing to take. Wave putty also _*does not*_ chemically bond to the plastic, however, if there is sufficient surface prep with, say, 600 or 800 grit, then the Wave will hold on like iron, and I've used it with great satisfaction. Wave and Aves Apoxie Sculpt are the only two non-chemically binding fillers I use, because of their inherent strength, tenacity, and workability. Once again, it's difficult for me to see what is so "perfect" about that putty, for me it has _*none*_ of the qualities I want to see in a filler, and _*all the issues that I don't want to see*_ in a filler._ Perfect Plastic Putty_ my astrolabe...


Disclaimer: The above statements are simply my experience with PPP. I am no putty expert, but I know 100% what works on _*my*_ model builds and what doesn't.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Useful thread -- this is what hobby threads should be about, IMO.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

SteveR said:


> Useful thread -- this is what hobby threads should be about, IMO.


It is refreshing to see a thread about model building stay on course instead of being hijacked by those who love or hate some show or movie franchise.

I am taking notes- this thread has some great info I want to keep on hand for my next project


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Agreed, gentlemen. After all, this place _IS_ called Hobby*Talk*, right? 

As an addendum to my last post, I just wanted to mention that different situations in my builds call for different putties, which is why I have 5 different types floating around my workbench during any given build. Small cracks and gaps are usually best dispensed with using my go-to, which is the Tamiya White putty. Chemically bonding, light, easy to sand/carve when cured, easy to work into small cracks and gaps, if I can't cut and fit plastic to fill with, that is. Also works great when thinned with lacquer thinner and brushed on in layers (just be careful not to thin too much or the lacquer thinner may attack the plastic). The non-chemically binding fillers (Wave and Aves) I primarily use for filling larger areas and re-shaping parts when doing modification. The benefit in that instance of using non-chemically binding filler is that it won't deform the plastic from troweling on large amounts of material that contain solvents, and you won't suffer a heart palpitation from inhaling large amounts of awful noxious fumes from the out-gassing. Once again, I try to use plastic to fill planar gaps and spaces as much as possible, minimizing the amount of differing materials I have stuck to my build, but in cases like my Yamato near the bow where I wanted to fill a very large depression, only a workable putty will do. The only other alternative IMO is vacuum-forming a new part, but I am way too lazy for that.


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## apls (Dec 5, 2005)

Yes, refreshing indeed.


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## tracy.net (Aug 30, 2009)

I purchased a tube of PPP after reading some glowing reviews from other members. Its best to just throw your money in the trash can. You cant water sand it, it will dissolve iam surprised paint don't cause some kind of reaction . Its super brittle and extremely weak. It is reminds me of cake frosting its so thin i find that its hard to work with but it does sand very smooth. Iam sure someone will find a good use for it once they dig it out of the dumpster.


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## Ross Bailey (Sep 24, 2019)

No mention of Sprue Goo? I've always gotten good results cutting small pieces of sprue and then putting them into a bottle of Tamiya cement (the kind with the brush in the lid). Give it a day for the plastic to melt in the bottle and then you have liquid styrene putty that you can brush on to problem areas. You don't have to worry about material compatibility since it's the same styrene plastic, and the result is a seamless look.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

tracy.net said:


> I purchased a tube of PPP after reading some glowing reviews from other members. Its best to just throw your money in the trash can. You cant water sand it, it will dissolve iam surprised paint don't cause some kind of reaction . Its super brittle and extremely weak. It is reminds me of cake frosting its so thin i find that its hard to work with but it does sand very smooth. Iam sure someone will find a good use for it once they dig it out of the dumpster.


Cake frosting is a good comparison. About the same consistency and density, and just as brittle. And no, wet sanding is not an option, the PPP will dissolve. Agreed, it does sand pretty smooth, but it is much *softer* and less dense than styrene, and I fear sanding would remove more PPP before plastic, resulting in depressions in the putty that need filling in (again). The flip side of that coin is, when using a filler like Aves, for example, which cures quite rigid and is *more* dense than the styrene, sanding will remove more _plastic_ before _filler_. End result being a mal-formed part due to uneven removal of material. I have to be careful when sanding Aves that I don't dig out more of the surrounding plastic than the filler. It's a careful dance to get the right strength, workability, tenacity, and density in a putty to use on a plastic model. The closest thing I have found is the Wave putty. 



Ross Bailey said:


> No mention of Sprue Goo? I've always gotten good results cutting small pieces of sprue and then putting them into a bottle of Tamiya cement (the kind with the brush in the lid). Give it a day for the plastic to melt in the bottle and then you have liquid styrene putty that you can brush on to problem areas. You don't have to worry about material compatibility since it's the same styrene plastic, and the result is a seamless look.


That... is an interesting idea and I can't believe I haven't thought to try that yet. I could see how it might be a more viable method to fill in the panel lines on the ol' 1/537 kit. It would take quite a bit of glue, but you're right it's the same material, and you're gluing it on, so all you need is patience, but it will still need sanding of course. I think you might be on to something here...


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

whiskeyrat said:


> Cake frosting is a good comparison. About the same consistency and density, and just as brittle. And no, wet sanding is not an option, the PPP will dissolve. Agreed, it does sand pretty smooth, but it is much *softer* and less dense than styrene, and I fear sanding would remove more PPP before plastic, resulting in depressions in the putty that need filling in (again).


I had similar experience with it. Went and grabbed the two containers of it last used a couple of months ago and both were hard or partially hardened. Tossed 'em both.

Going back to bondo for the times I need such a thing. If it's just a small area, I use epoxy putty but it's not very friendly for doing large scale filling-in of grid lines.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I had similar experience with it. Went and grabbed the two containers of it last used a couple of months ago and both were hard or partially hardened. Tossed 'em both.
> 
> Going back to bondo for the times I need such a thing. If it's just a small area, I use epoxy putty but it's not very friendly for doing large scale filling-in of grid lines.


One-part self-curing putties are the best for filling these types of gaps/panel lines/gridwork, IMO. Agreed *Perfesser*, an epoxy putty is not well suited to that _particular_ sort of filling on broad surfaces. Once again, I advocate strongly for using plastic sheet, strip, or other shapes (as necessary) for filling gaps, rather than putty, to ensure that as much of my model remains plastic as possible. If I'm not making large mods to my build, minimal puttying is best; gluing in plastic is ideal. Troweling on loads of solvent-filled putty will sometimes deform the plastic if it's thin, and creates extra work when sanding down to your final surface. And what if you go too far? MORE putty?? Luckily the 1/537 plastic is approximately .060" in most areas, so you actually _can_ heap on putty without real fear of harming the kit, just don't breathe too deep...

On the 1/537 panel lines, Bondo, spot glazing putty, Tamiya white polyester, (Squadron and Testors shrink too much for my taste) or anything similar would be the way I would go, and have done so before. I do however want to give the liquid goo angle a trial on one or two of the kit parts to see what exactly the technique would be. I have a feeling it's not as simple as it sounds...


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

I went and bought a tube pf PPP a year or more ago and when ever I go to use it again it's dried a bit so what I'll do is stick the open end under running tap water for a second or 2 let what's in the tube soak up the water and stick under the tap again and I keep doing this until it's soft enough to use. After all it's water based is it not??


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

irishtrek said:


> I went and bought a tube pf PPP a year or more ago and when ever I go to use it again it's dried a bit so what I'll do is stick the open end under running tap water for a second or 2 let what's in the tube soak up the water and stick under the tap again and I keep doing this until it's soft enough to use. After all it's water based is it not??


It is indeed water based, so I'm not surprised that running a tap over the end of a dried-out tube will re-moisten it and make it workable again. That's one major advantage over chemical-based one-part putties; the PPP can be salvaged it seems, if it dries in the tube. I've had more than one tube of Squadron, and Testors, dry out and simply "brick", with no hope of re-liquefying them (now I try really hard not to leave the cap off any tube when I'm applying the putty so there's minimal oxygen exposure). For folks on a tighter budget, being able to save that tube of PPP can mean keeping more money in the bank, and out of the garbage can, quite literally. Without having actually used PPP on any of my builds, I am guessing that, once sealed with paint, clear-coat, etc., it would be stable, assuming minimal or no handling of the model and no impacts to the surfaces containing putty. I've seen some builds on HT that incorporate PPP; they look good, the finish looks smooth, and I haven't really seen any complaints about performance yet, so I have to include that to be fair. I like being able to wet sand though, and PPP won't allow that without what I consider to be unreasonable risk of removing more putty than wanted by dissolution. Has anyone attempted filling in the panel lines on a 1/537 with PPP?


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

I also picked up a bottle of Vallejo acrylic resin putty about the same time and I'll use the PPP for gaps and the other for more tiny gaps. The best part of the Vallejo is one can smooth it with your finger tip and when done just stick your finger under running water to clean your finger, no more heavy sanding. The PPP can also be smoothed with the finger tip.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

irishtrek said:


> I also picked up a bottle of Vallejo acrylic resin putty about the same time and I'll use the PPP for gaps and the other for more tiny gaps. The best part of the Vallejo is one can smooth it with your finger tip and when done just stick your finger under running water to clean your finger, no more heavy sanding. The PPP can also be smoothed with the finger tip.


That sounds like the technique to use with PPP and Vallejo, etc. If you can minimize sanding by smoothing with a fingertip then it's simply a matter of making sure not to press down too hard and actually squeeze out some of the putty from the gap you're trying to fill, leaving a slight concavity. With Tamiya white polyester putty, I will sometimes take a q-tip moistened with lacquer thinner to help clean up corners that I've filled, and to get the putty worked all the way into the gap. Same technique as using a fingertip, basically.


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## Harrison (May 16, 2018)

I hate puttying - it always goes wrong.

I bought this re-pop a few weeks ago - its like saying hello to an old friend - flaws and all.

What I will say is that the plastic feels a bit softer than the ERTL run - which may have been down to old stock in new boxes back in the day (a recently purchased star trek IV refit is as hard / brittle as china after all this time and I remember mixed densities in the late 80's and 90's when I was buying about one a month!) - I've been modifying the parts some and the Aztek comes off quite easily (accidentally in this case). Its still a chore but less elbow ache.

I've butchered my kit and need to get a replacement but they are quite hard to come by in the UK at the moment - awaiting a repop of a repop.

H


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Jodet said:


> Just picked up one of these. The detail that got 'added in' after the smoothie version doesn't seem to be as bad as I recall. In fact... it looks pretty nice. Is my memory going or have they cleaned this mold up?
> 
> Nice kit in general. The box art is nice, the new decal sheet is spectacular. I really like the new big base with the metal rod.
> 
> Heckuva kit for only thirty two bucks.


I think the only two objections that I remember from the 80s (maybe 3) is that the paneling was scribed too deeply for scale, and that the design was not the "Aztec" paneling painted onto the original shooting model. Oh, and that the Engine pylons are too thin. Personally, the thin pylons, while easy to damage with glue, was aesthetically pleasing to me. Other inaccuracies can be corrected with resin parts that DLM (Don's Light and Magic) sold/sells. So, it's up to you how much you want to spend to make corrections to this kit. I remember when I bought my first one in 1979, my sense of detail accuracy was not developed at all. So, I found it to be a very pleasing kit.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Harrison said:


> I hate puttying - it always goes wrong.
> 
> I bought this re-pop a few weeks ago - its like saying hello to an old friend - flaws and all.
> 
> ...


I have noticed that all the Trek kits coming from China these days are using a thinner, much softer kind of polystyrene than Ertl used to use. I don't know if Ertl's kits where Chinese or American made.This thinned, soft plastic is hard for me to use. Easy to gouge or even sand through, I find myself wishing for the harder, thicker plastic used up through the 20-aughts. It's easier for me to work with.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Good tips on the putty.


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