# Well, here goes nothin. My first attempt at casting a body.



## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Well, I got a bug in my ear and finally decided to order a Smooth-On kit. Some of you have been watching me relentlessly posting rapid-fire questions about the intricacies of resin casting. Thanks to all who read and responded and offered suggestions and tips and even extra materials. Today I stopped contemplating and worrying and fretting and finally just dunked something in the soup.

Some of you probably saw where I posted this Lincoln already, but for the sake of starting at the beginning, here it is again.



















The wheelbase is just slightly long for a JL/AW chassis, somewhat moreso for an original Aurora chassis. Guess this one will be mainly for JL/AW.



















My original plan was to cast the roof/windows as a separate clear piece a la Aurora Mustang/Galaxie, but some folks here were kind enough to point out that it's very tough to get clear resin to come out good. In order to simplify for my first project, I decided to just cast it all as one piece.










I raided the kids' Lego stash for suitable mold box materials.

(more)


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

After I painted it, I found it very difficult to prep the body for molding without boogering up the finish. I guess we'll see how badly I messed it up when the first copy pops out. For sure I will be revising the order of the steps I used, though I don't know exactly how, since the next couple projects I had in mind have totally different requirements...




























Finally ready to mold, I guess.



















I gotta say it was really weird watching the body slowly disappear under this layer of lavender goop that was slowly rising around it. Kinda like it was in quicksand or something.

Time to hurry up and wait. Smooth-On says 16 hours. Jeez, that makes it late afternoon tomorrow before I can do something else. Must be time to go paint another casting candidate...

will post more as it happens. i have a weird idea for screwposts that I hope I don't regret. :freak:

--rick


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Looking good so far...*

rick,

Way to jump in feet first!!:thumbsup:

I need to read my Smooth-On instructions again as I thought this whole time they said to wait only 6 hours?

Bob...very neat body you are casting up...zilla


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

thanks Bob. i just hope i can get the clay out and the inside mold poured without too much drama... lol

--rick


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

rick i dig yer go for it attitude man ! ya got nothin to loose. and will follow along with ya. the whole world is watchin the whole world is watchin. and the crowd goes wild!!!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

I got my Popcorn:thumbsup:

Go rick go rick go rick!!!!!:tongue:


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Orange you a lucky duck...*

rick,

I am very Jello-us of your Orange Hooters type lego blocks...LUCKY!

Here is Kiwis friend Orange...






Bob...have white, blue, green, yellow, red & black...zilla


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

bobhch said:


> rick,
> 
> I am very Jello-us of your Orange Hooters type lego blocks...LUCKY!
> 
> ...


Hee hee... Funny, I noticed them in there. There's only a few and I have no idea where they came from...

--rick


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

*Next installment*

Seems to be going well. Took the mold out of the Lego box and scraped out the clay. Kind of a pain, but I guess it could be much worse. It's funny, at the point I started working on getting the clay out, my wife took an interest and looked over my shoulder. I explained what would happen next with the vaseline and the original body staying in to make the inside mold, and she said, "Jeez that's a lot of work." The things we do for our little toy cars, I guess...










The clay at the ends there behind the bumpers was actually stuff I put back in. I didn't hack out the original body posts, so I figured I'd bridge them in and use the material to support the screwposts.










Speaking of screwposts, jeez I hope this idea works. That's pieces of drinking straw held in by clay. The straw is somewhat larger in diameter than your average screwpost. I figured on my first attempt, I'd leave myself some margin for error. I had some smaller straws that matched up pretty well with some Aurora and JL screwposts that I compared them to, but I was worried that if I was off a little on placement, I'd be in trouble. This way, they're most likely gonna require trimming to clear axles and gears, but I'd rather have too much material than not enough. You can always take a little more off. I tried to get the centers of the posts to be 1 15/16" apart. From what I measured, Aurora bodies and JLs and early AWs have their screwpost centerlines 1 7/8" apart, while later AWs that take the longer chassis into account have them more like 1 15/16". It's a lot easier to get an Aurora chassis to fit under the longer AW body than it is to get the AW chassis under an original Aurora or early AW/JL with the shorter span.










Aaaaand it's poured. Hope I used enough Vaseline on the top of the outside mold. That Lego texture was kind of annoying to get the Vaseline into the holes, but I like the idea of those holes locating the halves of the mold together.

Guess we'll find out tomorrow night. Meanwhile, my mind is racing with possible casting ideas, but I don't have enough time to do them or money to keep buying this stuff at the rate I want to. Gotta remember to buy another Powerball ticket. 

--rick


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

really good so far Rick. not criticizing, but, the reason I recommend the Micro Mark complete stater kit for new casters is that it comes with everything one needs including mold release that is liquid and brushes on. you can also consider using cooking PAM for mold release. another point. leave the rubber (silicone) mold in the legos while ou remove the clay. simply take off the bottom flat LEGO base to expose the area you need to access. then add the legos around what was the bottom to be able to pour the male half. I am lazy. the less work I have to do the better I like a task. less is more.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

I noticed that about taking the mold out of the Legos. I will be leaving it in from now on... it was a pain to get it back together.

I was reading lots of different stuff about mold release, and I just used what I saw a couple guys say they used. I really like the Pam idea... I guess you can just spray it on the whole mess, with the master still inside the outer mold, once you are ready to pour the inside one?

--rick


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yes, I have spray on mold release that I bought from Micro Mark, but I'm betting PAM is cheaper. you might even be able to borrow some from the kitchen. ... LOL


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Check your box Rick, the Smooth On kit comes with a small bottle of mold release spray, if you bought the starter kit...RM


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Rick,
Great pix! Just remember to do some extras. When I used to cast, I too have used PAM when i ran out of the other stuff. Was an experiment, worked well, didn't have any bad results. :thumbsup::thumbsup: 

Dave


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

A few questions for the experienced before I demold this thing and get started pouring resin:

1. Alumilite's directions mention heating the mold before casting. I used Smooth-On. Should that mold be heated or no? I didn't see anything about it in the directions.

2. About how much resin does it take to cast an average body? I found it pretty easy to calculate volume for the mold (mold box L cm x W cm x H cm minus approx car L cm x W cm x H cm), but I have no idea how to start measuring the volume of the body shell. Anybody have a general guideline they use? 

3. On a related note, the Alumilite directions say to pour enough to fill the empty female mold to the rocker panels, then gently squeeze the male mold into it. Seems like an awful lot of resin to waste. Any words of widsom?

thanks in advance...

--rick


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

To determine the mold volume...try filling with water...then measure the required amount.


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## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Coming in late here with some tips, but might help with future endeavors.
Hope this helps.

-Paul









I use GLAD food containers to make my molds. They are also good to store the molds when they aren't being used.









Here you can see where I mold fitting keys into the female side of the mold (at the wheel wells). This helps make sure the male plug rests at the correct depth and direction.









Here you see both halves. The male plug has "vents cut out on the front. back and sides. This allows the air bubbles to escape from the resin when pressure is applied.









Here you can see the vents while the plug is in place.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I frequently measure for a total of 1TSP(5ml) per HO scale body. when I am pouring rubber, I always have something like a hood or sccop or parachute in a flat small container and pour some of the extra rubber from the male half over the extra object. when pouring the resin into the female half, I save a tiny bit to pour into the extra mold to make the scoop or parachute or blower, etc... I pour my resin into the vacant female mold and slosh it a bit to make sure the entire surface of the intended cast gets covered then I press the male half in and let the excess resin rise up the posts. some will squich out the sides too. it is OK. as Bill said, you can measure the exact amount of volume by filling with water then measuring, but then you have to dry the mold really well. resin does NOT like water, humidity at all. I have never had to warm the mold, but, I guess a few seconds in a micro wave will accomplish that if you feel like trying it. volume in the female half is about all the roof and part of the hood and trunk area covered before I slosh the resin around a little. I know I am jumping around here, typing as I think of my procedures.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Rick, A good start would be 5 ML's of A and 5 ML's of B mixture. Do you have any of the small medicine measuring cups? After you mix em, stir for a good 30 to 45 second count, pour into your bottom mold, then slowly place your top mold in place. Also the sloshing around as above stated above helps, especially if you have small area such as a rear spoiler or bumpers...RM


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

alpink, great idea on the small parts. wish i had thought of that before throwing out the very end of the resin yesterday! i will keep those numbers in mind. and i'm not gonna try the water trick simply because i'm afraid to ruin the cast with water that i didn't get out of the mold...

pshoe, LOVE the Glad food containers! I was thinking the Lego box wastes a lot of rubber... the rounded corners of those containers saves some of it. besides, the wife was giving me the stinkeye when she saw me pouring goopy stuff into the kids Legos...

thanks all!

--rick

edit: randy, sounds like you and alpink agree on the amount... that's where i'm starting.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

rick,

I take a sharpie and make a line about 1/4" or so up from the bottom of my tiny 1oz. clear disposable cups. Then do the same for another cup and check them to make sure they are the same. 

Working with sheet metal layout work at my job for the last 20 years has given me a pretty good eye for measurement marks. I always check them by holding them up to each other at an angle and see if I got it right. 

It doesn't take much resin at all but, you want to have enough so that some resin does come out of your squish mold.

You gotta be sitting on the edge of your seat about now...Awesum! Can't wait to see your first casting. 

Bob...You are doing Fantastic...zilla


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

thanks to a last-minute pep talk and Q & A session with bobzilla, I am officially casting. I popped the mold apart an hour or two ago. the inside one is kinda ugly, but I'm thinking the outside one came pretty good:










I hacked a couple of additional holes in the bottom of the male one because I've seen folks say that's a good way to let air bubbles escape. I was a little worried because when I put the male half in, it kinda popped in fast once I put a little pressure on it. I hope I didn't manage to trap a big air bubble in the process.

Guess we'll see in about 5 more minutes...

--rick


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

Good luck. We're all rooting for ya. Tom


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yeah, mix and pour some resin. but, in future, you might want to let your mold air for a day or two. I have been told to let a new mold air for a week. I cannot wait more than about thirty seconds after the mold has cured though ... LOL


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Go Rick go!!!!! :woohoo: The outside is the important part!! :woohoo:


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

*Dive In*

Go for it. If you use too much you will not have lost very much. If you don't use enough then it will be worse than too much. Some off my best slosh cast's are done with too much. Too thin and it was junk within 5 minutes. I got some bodies I want to cast in the near future and am totally inspired by your attempts..


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

w00t! Ground Control to Major Tom... we have lincoln! I think it came out pretty durn good too, all things considered.




























One thing I noticed... it's still kinda pliable and rubbery. I assume that eventually goes away when the stuff cures all the way? How long till I can play with it without fear of bending it?

--rick


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yeah man!, that's what I'm talkin about, good job, congrats!


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## CTSV OWNER (Dec 27, 2009)

OH YEA Now your pimpin big tyme.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Congrats Daddy!!!! :lol: Looks great Rick!!


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

CTSV OWNER said:


> OH YEA Now your pimpin big tyme.


yeah, I was thinking this is a total pimpmobile and I need to figure out what to do with it as far as paint... Mark Cross edition? Bill Blass? Cartier?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lincoln_Continental_Mark_V

The second one came good too. Gonna pop out a bunch before bedtime. Next up: Datsun 240Z, but that will have to wait probably till the weekend before I get around to making a mold...

thanks to all for the advice, materials, words of wisdom, and moral support!

--rick

--rick


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*Life is good.............so Gooooooooooooooood!*

rick,

Ooooooooh Boy! Now that is AWESUM dude!!

You did it...that is so cool to see your plan come tO LIFE. :woohoo:

I try and trim up the flashing sooner than later as it is easier to trim before it sets up totally. Use a NEW Sharp X-Acto blade. 
NOTE: {  To all you young Kids stay away from sharp objects and ask your parents to help you with stuff like this!!  }

Bob...YO Lincoln in the Houuuuuuuuuuuse!!...zilla


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

ParkRNDL said:


> w00t! Ground Control to Major Tom... we have lincoln! I think it came out pretty durn good too, all things considered.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Casting till you can't cast no more. LOL GO, GO, GO!!


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

"YEAH BABY YEAH" Way to go. Let the production line run wide open. Tom


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

if this one stays rubbery, check the quantities of the mix before you pour another. make sure you leave it in the mold at least the minimum amount of time required. and, make another one real soon.


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

Well done dude!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

WOW!!! I am impressed!!

Who'da thunk!!:freak:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

WooHoo!!! A car is born, maybe a star too!!! RM


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

After I cast 5 of these, I took the first one down to the basement and commenced the hacking. Yeah, I got a little heavy-handed with the hobby knife on that passenger front wheelwell.





































Body number 001 turned several successful laps. It handles about like it should, which is to say it is a sled. I hadn't intended for the nose to be so low, but it looks kinda cool that way. I'll keep one of the others more stock-looking, I guess. Speaking of the others...










I would do more, but it's getting past my bedtime. Night all. :wave:

--rick


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

AWESOME BODIES! I will have to learn one day.

Wes


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

They stiffen up pretty quick and like as stated some of the "hard work" is done more easily just after the dismount. I can't wait to do what you just did. I got some surf boards and a VW van that is gonna make the TM crazy. She said it's all cool. Her color choice will make it happen sooner. Congrats


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Sweet job Rick!!!! Push out a few more litters tomorrow night!!! I'm sure they'll all find good homes!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Cool. I like em low myself!!!

Need I even ask??:freak: Ahem..


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Cool. I like em low myself!!!
> 
> Need I even ask??:freak: Ahem..


I'll put your name on one. Hey, aren't you gonna be at the Superbowl show?

--rick


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

wow rick very cool. must feel xmass and birthday all in 1. and yer selection is a pimpin float to boot! our fair brother rick always goes for it. good job rick


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

ParkRNDL said:


> I'll put your name on one. Hey, aren't you gonna be at the Superbowl show?
> 
> --rick



Yes I will see you there bud!!:freak: Can't wait to put a face with the name. I will be with Tom and the kid Zach.

Thats fine I am in no rush. Thanks and keep up the good work because we ALL benefit!!


How else would a guy like me wind up with some of the coolest and oddest rods with 2 shoes on em!!:thumbsup:


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

You da man!!!!


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## 1scalevolvo (Feb 5, 2004)

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Great job for the 1st time !!! Keep it coming !!


Neal:dude:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Thats some fine work Rick.

Die casts now tremble before you!


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## 1scalevolvo (Feb 5, 2004)

:thumbsup:I will be @ the Superbowl sunday show @ HO-LI too ! It will be my 1st post-retirement show !! Bring me one of you Lincolns & I will pack up one of my Marx Lincoln castings to exchange. Just say the word !!

Neal:dude:


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## 1scalevolvo (Feb 5, 2004)

A great project Idea for your Lincoln Mk V !!!






Neal:dude:


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Hahahahaha! This body totally reminds me of The Car. Dunno if I'll ever get around to that project, but this body sure lends itself to that. I am doing everything I can to get to the SB show. I'll bring my extras to trade, and one will have your name on it too for sure...

--rick


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## coach61 (Sep 6, 2004)

ParkRNDL said:


> Hahahahaha! This body totally reminds me of The Car. Dunno if I'll ever get around to that project, but this body sure lends itself to that. I am doing everything I can to get to the SB show. I'll bring my extras to trade, and one will have your name on it too for sure...
> 
> --rick




this what ya have in mind?


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*News Flash...rick builds a 70s time machine...*

rick that body looks right at home whit that chassis under it!

Bob...Welcome to the Lincoln reproduction line...zilla


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Nice "CAR" Coach


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

hey Coach, PM sent.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

*just so y'alls don't think I'm crazy...*

i kept saying the mold had to cure for 16 hours according to the Smooth-On directions. well, here's what i was going by, on page 7 of the book:










However, Zilla pointed out that he thought it was more like 6 hours, so I checked again... and everything I can find online, AND on the DVD video they sent, AND on the bottle of stuff itself, says 6 hours. henceforth, I am about to get cracking on the mold I poured last night at midnight. amen!

--rick


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## XracerHO (Feb 6, 2008)

Rick, Great casting! Us, non casters, have been watching your progress & great results so keep posting to this very informative thread, ..RL


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## slotto (Feb 9, 2010)

Nice work on those sedans. Congrats on your first session!


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

For a first time caster, you did Awesome!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

OK, this thread was supposed to be my first attempt, but I'm gonna post my second also since there are a bunch of guys following it who say they want to try this too and there is a lot of stuff to learn from this one. The second one came much better than I expected but it still has some issues. Don't have time to get into them now, we are taking the kids for haircuts--I will post a couple pics of the finished product now and get more into what I learned later on tonight...



















--rick


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

Looking good! :thumbsup:

Wes


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

ooooooooo000000OOOOOOOOOH Datsun...vewy, vewy nice!

Bob...re-making my Element mold now...zilla


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## CTSV OWNER (Dec 27, 2009)

Just get the electric razor give 'em a buzz cut and get back to posting already.


Oh by the way lookin pretty nice


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

OK, here we go...

I was excited about this one, as it lined up with LWB Tjet perfectly.










But the bumpers and grille and lights made me a little nervous. They are made of a cheap rubbery plastic. The grille and headlights don't completely fill the openings in the body, and the ends of the bumpers don't sit flush against the sides of the body. Dunno if you can see in these pics, but there's a lot of daylight around the headlights in those openings. You can definitely see that the taillights are kinda falling down droopy looking.




























Looking back, this was not the best kind of car to cast, especially for someone just getting his feet wet. alpink said as much when he told me that he's pretty selective about what he'll try to cast. The Lincoln was much easier in this respect... big metal bumpers that fit the body well and could be superglued or epoxied in place. Besides being lousy quality materials, these bumpers weren't in great shape either. Additionally, you can see in the photo above that the windows did not fit up flush against the roof. They looked okay as a toy to play with, but up close, they were a mess.

However, in another thread, 22tall mentioned that it's important to use clay to seal all cracks, crevices, or gaps between the windows and bumpers and the body. So I figured I'd try the best I could with all these pieces that didn't seem to be quite right. I stuffed the nose with clay till it oozed out past the headlights, then carefully scraped it away except for where it provided a filler BEHIND the headlight pieces.










I made a clay "gasket" to seal the windows to the body, and where it squished out around the window moldings, I used a small rounded tool to scrape the excess away. Reminded me of what you're supposed to be able to do with silicone caulk when you patch something in the bathroom... just put your finger in it and smooth it out, though I never have much luck with that kind of repair.










SO what did I end up with?


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

This, which I'm pretty pleased with:



















Here are the issues, mainly: The ends of the bumpers don't cast completely. I get an air bubble at the end of at least 1 or 2 every time.

The front license plate has a similar issue with bubbles.

The taillights are kinda ugly, as in crooked and damaged-looking. They did not seal to the body well with the clay during initial moldmaking. When I finally looked at the female mold, there was a flap of silicone covering each taillight from the indside... silicone that had seeped in and gotten past the clay seal. I was able to pick it away with tweezers before I actually started casting. Maybe I need to do that around the ends of the bumpers too...

The screwposts are too big--too long, AND too thick. Didn't take all that much trimming, though...










I like it. It'll go a little lower in the front if I trim on the lower cowl area, and it could use bigger meat all around, but for now I'm just gonna look for a paint color that these came in new (orange, maybe?) and enjoy the cruise factor...

--rick


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

*It even has a side window for a driver...*

Orange would look great!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Bob...Oh this definitely has a cruise factor (SWEET!)...zilla


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

The Datsun looks great! I am impressed. I like the stance and the potential for larger wheels. Inspirational thread Rick!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

good job with a challenging body type Rick. yep, check for thin silicone membranes that migh be preventing resin from getting into the bumper areas and have a toothpick handy when you slosh the female half to maybe "push" the air bubble out of the recess before you insert the male half.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

This is great work you're doing on these resin cast cars, Rick. I'm really enjoying following along. Thanks!!

Rolls


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## slotto (Feb 9, 2010)

nice Z bro.


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

That's "Z" way to go. Keep up the awesome work. Tom


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

*Nice Job*

I think why most people do no even attempt a cast is just pure intimidation. Casting a previously cast body can be fairly easy but what you are trying has some trial and error results. I would suggest that if you are not happy with these first casts then clean them up and make a cast from the clean one. I commend your results. I like casting bodies that are not out there or common and I enjoy doing it and am really enjoying your projects...first, second, and more to come. David


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## 1scalevolvo (Feb 5, 2004)

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


:dude:


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## CTSV OWNER (Dec 27, 2009)

Hey Rick,

Would you do a trade? I'll send you a C Cab for a Lincoln.


Dave


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Hey Dave, absolutely. shoot me an email.

--rick


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

WooHoo!!! Stinkin Lincoln coming my way tomorrow.

I'll be pimpimg soon!! I am thinking curb feelers and all!!!!


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## win43 (Aug 28, 2006)

Very cool stuff!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup: I especially like those Lincolns


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