# Honda GCV160 Help



## craig.m (Sep 28, 2014)

Hello, I'm new here and new to engine repairs. Recently ruined my brand new (4th time using it) Honda GCV160 lawn mower, bent the crank shaft, and decided to try to fix myself and learn about it (followed instructions i found here from an old thread about the engine). After putting it all back together it won't start. So far I've found I'm not getting a spark, replaced the spark plug with a brand new one and still no spark. Tried to trouble shoot to see if it's the magneto/ignition assembly (disconnecting the kill switch wire) and still had no luck. Does that mean it's the ignition assembly or is there something else I should look at. Just find it hard to believe that the original part from a 6 mo old honda engine would go bad and know that since I put it together there's a bunch of potential failure points on my end, but I still think it would be able to get a spark. Really appreciate any advice.


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## finaprint (Jan 29, 2006)

The airgap at the magneto pickup must be set close as required, too wide and no spark. Some of the newer electronic modules are very fussy about wire polarity too, I've fried one by simply reconnecting wires wrong just for a second. 

FYI you must spin the motor as fast as you can to get spark, simply turning slowly will not make it on a mag. The plug must be plugged in and the base metal grounded to something metal on the engine to spark as well.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Did you remove the ignition module when you took the engine apart to replace the crankshaft?


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## craig.m (Sep 28, 2014)

I removed the ignition module during the replacement. Putting it back together I used a business card since I don't have the factory card for the exact distance it needs to be apart. 

To test spark I've been grounding and using the pull cord.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Is it possible you reinstalled the module upside down? Many will install both ways, but will only work one way.


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## craig.m (Sep 28, 2014)

Thank you very much for both of your help. I installed it upside down and it worked like a charm once it was right side up. Thanks for the help!


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

craig.m said:


> Thank you very much for both of your help. I installed it upside down and it worked like a charm once it was right side up. Thanks for the help!


Your Welcome, Glad you got it going.


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## craig.m (Sep 28, 2014)

So apparently I lied. I had to replace the fan cooling piece because it wasnt turning the flywheel since the plastic posts were broken. I was able to start it without the blade on but with the blade its not starting. Ill get a few sputters and thats it when the blade is on...


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I would suspect the the camshaft timing is off. It's probably close but not where it should be. Pull the valve cover off, remove the spark plug, using a probe such a a pencil, rotate engine and find top dead center on the compression stroke and check cam shaft timing alignment marks.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

I agree with 30yearTech. The timing may be close enough to start it with no load but with a load timing is critical.
I rebuilt a Tecumseh motor on a lawn motor. I tried to crank it without the blade because I didn't want to bother taking it off and on. It kicked back like the timing was off. I checked the timing marks, it was right on. I put it back together and tried it again, it popped but the same kick back. 
A friend who worked with me via email asked if I put the blade on. I said no, then I put it on. It cranked and ran fine. The blade acts as a counter balance that keeps the spin complete so that the piston is in the correct position when the ignition fired. Without the blade, the ignition fired too soon.
Could be that with the load on yours, the timing puts the piston to far past the ignition point. Without the load it is closer to the ignition point.


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## craig.m (Sep 28, 2014)

So the camshaft timing alignment was off like you guys said. I adjusted and it started fine (with blade on) at first but then started to sputter. It was misfiring so i think the valve clearances are off? Ill be checking that out unless you think theres is something else i should look into?


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## craig.m (Sep 28, 2014)

Adjusted the valve clearance .15 and .2 mm on the intake and exhaust. ran better but still not quite right. came up fine and after a little started to lose power again.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

If you didn't replace the spark plug, try a new one. Otherwise I would still suspect the timing to be off a little, or there could be oil on the paper air filter and if so you will need to get a new one.


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