# Alan Bean's 1969 Corvette build



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

1st a confession, I haven't built a car model in over 20 years.
I mainly build real space, aircraft, and Science fiction.

I have just picked up the Revell 1969 corvette 427. The crew of Apollo 12 had special riverside gold/black painted 1969 Corvettes built for them. I have ordered an aftermarket wired distributor and hose/wire kit. 

I am hoping I can get some advise from car modelers. I don't want to reinvent the wheel.

Any suggestions, tips, techniques, tricks?

Thanks in advance. So far I've got the engine started and a few parts painted.

I'm planing on priming the body with Tamiya fine white primer. I have some Tamiya TS-21 gold paint, and I was
going to seal it with Tamiya clear pearl. 

I'll spray the interior semi matt black to simulate the black vinyl interior.

The rest will be brush painted.

Any thoughts? 

Will I need to polish the body?

I assume with the distributor I just use my pin vise to drill out the post hole and the the 8 spark plug holes?

I have hoses/wires also. I guess the battery on the 1969 was behind the drivers seat, so no worries there.

Do the aftermarket Parts by Parks hoses look better than the plastic kit parts?


Thanks

Mark


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## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

Since you've done plenty of modelling, most of the same rules apply, like sanding seams, detail painting and decals.
Revell corvette: it's and older kit, but it checks out. here's a build on YT 



polish the body: it depends how gloss your gloss coat comes out and if it's glossy enough for you, otherwise you will want to polish out the finish.
distributor: yep, drill and superglue. Google images is your friend for references.
aftermarket hoses: yes, they look better, but are harder to fit so it really comes down to how much work you want to do.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

You may not need to drill out the distributor as it is hidden under chrome shielding. The wires would exit from under the top cover to both sides of the block. I am sure you have found all the sites related to the rebuild and restoration, but here is one from 'Vette Views that show both sides of the engine bay with NCRS correct tags routing and colors. https://vette-vues.com/alan-l-beans-1969-chevrolet-astrovette/


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks for the suggestions!

Work continues on the engine. 



















Most of the kit has been primed.

One issue is that I got orange plug wires. I remember a lot of orange wires in the '70s. 
But the engine block is orange/red. I'll replace them with blue wires.

I'm not sure I want a super high gloss finish, in this scale and with the gold paint it might look out of scale.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

I remember the heavy duty fram plug wires from the late '70s and into the '80s as well. Modern wire sets are mostly blue now and you would not need the shielding as the wires have that built into them now.

You may want to test fit and check your hood clearence on the wiring too. There is not much clearence room under the hood - even on the scale models! :chees2:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> I remember the heavy duty fram plug wires from the late '70s and into the '80s as well. Modern wire sets are mostly blue now and you would not need the shielding as the wires have that built into them now.
> 
> You may want to test fit and check your hood clearence on the wiring too. There is not much clearence room under the hood - even on the scale models! :chees2:


Yup. The wires are just placed into the sparkplug holes now. I'll trim them and run them more realistically before the engine goes in. It should be ok as the air filter will be higher that the wires. I also plan to make the chrome plate above the distributor with sheet plastic covered with bare metal foil.


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## terryr (Feb 11, 2001)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Modern wire sets are mostly blue now and you would not need the shielding as the wires have that built into them now.


Corvettes needed the metal shield because they were fiberglass. Too much radio static without it. But I'm sure many people removed it anyway.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Some progress. Most of the initial painting is done.

I got a few coats of gold on the body and buffed it out. I think its ok.




























I have to paint the black "wings" soon. The gold is Tamiya gold lacquer. My recent V2 I used the Tamiya black lacquer over Tamiya white lacquer. I had a few coverage issues. I'm worried about the black covering well. I have some Testors black enamel I could use. 
I don't really want to prime the area over the gold, I think it would be too thick.

Anyone have any ideas or thoughts?

Thanks


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## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

looking good.
you should be able to paint over the gold, just sand it a bit to give it some tooth. i don't think it will be too thick.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Progress is slow. 

I finally got around to masking the wings.


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## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

cool. i like the gold and matt black so far...


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks,

Eventually it will be gloss coated.

I started on the interior today.



















The center instrument cluster is not supposed to have white faces. But the cockpit is soooo black it helps
break it up a bit. The kit comes with Speedo and Tach decals but If I can clean them up a bit I might stick with the paint.

The kit has no alternator support or RF shield, so I started making something.










On Monday I stopped by the Newport RI Auto museum, They had a beautiful '69 convertible on display. Along with a lot of other Corvettes!


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

If you havent put the interior together yet here are 2 details to consider adding. The parking brake handle should have a chrome tip and a chrome handle (between the ridged portions). You can see it in the interior shot of the 69.

When the fiber optic light system is on - they are clear blue red red blue clear. When off the only have a very slight tint of red and blue and look a silvery white as you have them now.











You seem to have a steady hand and may want to tackle the additional door card trim too. Though getting the chrome and black seperation would seem to be very hard to accomplish.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

MFR,

I tried a few things to trim the door panel. Nothing looked good. I ended up using bare metal foil on the center. It's not
100 correct, but helps break up the sea of black in the cockpit.

I'm not sure what you are referencing with the LED's

I spent some time on the engine today. I trimmed and routed the spark-plug wires, added the black boots, glued the wires in the engine, and mounted the coil. -


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Understandable the difficulty with the door cards at 1:24 scale.

The part reference is an actual insert from the one of one car interior. They are located in the top/front section of the center floor console. They are not LEDs though, they are part of a fiber optic system that illuminates when a turn signal (clear) is used, the head lights (blue) are on or the brake (light) (red) is used. The silverish color you have there now would be a good representation for when the car is parked or day time driven. A slight bluish and red tint to them is noticable though - especially from overhead - even when not illuminated by the fiber optic line from the different lamp housings.

Just another detail suggestion that can be used in your build process if you wanted.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks, I think I understand now. The top, center of the console has indicator lights? I never knew that. Thanks.

A bit more done today.




















I started detail work on the firewall, mounted the air cleaner, and built the tires.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The fiber optic system was only availalbe from '68 to '71 from the factory, but you could retro fit a system into virtually any C3. Hardly anyone does though as the fiber optiic filaments are easily broken. It doest cost you points under NCRS judging.

Is the wheel set the only option they gave you? I know you can get the finned ones m in other kits to better match what is on the original car. If you can install the wheels in place without glueing them they can be traded out later if you find some. You have the standard Rally wheel caps showing in your photos. If you give the center cap ridge areas a flat black wash - it will create the same look in the outer ring and the rest of the center hub reflections when looked at straight on.

:thumbsup:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks MFR great info!

There are 2 kit wheel options, this one was closest. The wheels snap on, but where would I find the correct wheels? 
A quick search on the MegaHobby did not come up with anything closer. 
There is a light black wash on them now, but its not enough.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The model kits I am thinking about would be from the 1970s. IIRC it would be an MPC with the 3 different build options.

You might also be able to find a set from a 1967 or 1968 Corvette model kit. Another option might be from the Franklin Mint 69 Corvette diecast. Danbury mint might have also used them.

IIRC the deluxe wheel cover was an option up to 1972. So you might want to search those year model kits or 1:24/25 diecast car as well. 

I can only think of a few more exterior details specific to a '69 and you have already accomplished the main black paint detail. The other needed detail would be the red white and blue fender badge unique to the AstroVettes. LMP is lettered into the blue field but may be to small to include at this scale, but you didi a fantastic job on the dash details.

Like the interior door cards. The housing for the door latch is chrome as is the flat latch on the top edge of the door. The key hole would also be chrome. As are the visible A pillar frames. It may also be hard to include but the top window frame is also chrome, but not really visible with the t tops in place. The front and side adges of the t tops have a chrome edge as well. 

If you are really ambitous the bottom of the gap between the t tops would be the chromed t bar, but the inside edges of the t tops themselves would still be the harvest gold paint color.

THe crossed flag badge would be the same as on the gas cap cover on the rear deck.

On the hood, the top edge of the 2 front channels and the inside back side in the channel is also a chrome insert.

You can see most of those details in this photo, but for the inserts in the hood buldge channels.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks again MFR.

I've been looking on the web for some better wheels.

In the meantime I'm plugging along with the kit.

I've been experimenting with washes. I've used a "landing gear" wash with good results on the front grill, rear leaf spring, and body vents. The chassis and suspension got a light wash of dark grey.



















I think it worked ok.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The grill does look good. Under the extend nose in shadow it should look just right! :thumbsup:

The fire wall looks amazing. Great job!!! :cheers2:

Having looked at the underside of C3s laying on my back primarily and in deep shadow with only a flashlight all most everything on a regularily driven C3 looks like the rear axle and leaf spring components you have painted that greyish silver color - and I mean all of it.

But, with the AstroVette being resetored at least twice now and not driven in the rain any more or over the murky water of the Gulf Coast beaches - it should be still as clean and factory appearing as you currently have it shown. Most people who see it are not going to pick it up and look so the current condiion of the bottom is up to you and your preferences.

I will recommend/suggest that you match the inner wheels wells (and floor pan to the base/chassis component colors for the most accurate representation They should all be same. :cheers2:

Here is a modern front suspension replacement on '67 showing a cleaned and factory correct underbody view. Except for the brass colored fittings the colors would be similiar. The black on the left is the body underside, the lighter grey is the inner fender liner and the black on the right is the painted frame. 


Carrs Restoration Shop Tour by Milton Fox, on Flickr



And here is the back left wheel well view (With flash lighting so it is a bit brighter than it looks in real life) of a daily driver - partially restored '76 with most of the rear suspension out to replace the rear leaf spring. My friend West is getting ready to drop the spare tire cover. From the bottom left corner clockwise is the brake rotor, then caliper, backing plate, differential, rear axle cushion stop (rubber), outer rear frame rail, rear cross member, rear body mount, inner wheel liner and inner rear fender surface.


2009 NTCFF Garage Day by Milton Fox, on Flickr


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks! The photo's really help.

In the suspension photos, the A frames are tubular. Were the original's welded tubes or stamped steel?

I'm constantly in flux about how dirty to make the car, as it was driven in the late 60's it would be grimy but on tour as you said it's been restored. 
I was going to leave the leaf springs clean, but they didn't look correct. The light wash just brings out the individual springs.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The A frames would be the black painted - stamped steel. In your kit you are only going to have the bottom ones as shown in your photos and the shock end color is correct to a gull grey GM Delco brand. :cheers2:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

The bottom suspension is on:










It needed clamping to stay in place. 

The front has upper A frames to be installed later tonight or Thursday.

I'll have to gloss coat the body soon, and start work on making the decals.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

The cockpit is mostly done. 




























I ended up using the speedo/tach decals. They look good.

I made some seatbelts from medical tape.

Getting the motor in was very interesting.

The headers blocked the kits chassis motor mount.

I tried moving the headers, not good.
I tried carving /sanding the headers, no good.
I tried carving/sanding the motor mounts, no good.
I finally removed most of the motor mounts and got things all glued in.

This is a 50 year old kit, so far this is the only fit issue I've had, so far.....
The body/chassis might be interesting.

I added the fuel lines from the fuel pump to the carbs, the kit had nothing.




















Thats it for about a week, I'm off to Kitty Hawk NC to pay tribute to 2 Ohio brothers who's work have allowed me to be employed.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I was back at my bench today.

Not much progress, but I finally got the wheels on the chassis. 
But not without a tiny issue. The upper A frames get in the way of the wheels.
One snapped and needed repairing. No big deal.

The cockpit and fire wall are just dry fitted.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Very minor progress.

I had to do some body touch up paint, but I finally got the body gloss coated.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

That turned out awesome! :thumbsup:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Thanks! I'm happy so far.

I got the body decals on this morning.

The marker lights, Corvette badges, door handles, locks, 427 badges, Corvette nameplate are all raised details on the kit and also decals.
Using Micro Sol and Set they snugged down nicely. I then sealed them with another coat of clear coat.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Those look great! :thumbsup:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

A bit more. All the decals are on, the tail lights and red/white/blue badge's included.

I'm not happy with the red/white/blue badge but the rest look very nice. The tail lights have decals for the chrome rings and the reverse lights.

The front grill and hood are on.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The rear lights look so realistic! :thumbsup:

Are you planning to rework the tri color badge? :lurk5:

For me it would be one of those points that very few people are going to know what that badge exactly looks like and will probably just like the fact that it is there in the first place. :cheers2:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Yah the tail lights do look great. Lots of details on this kit amaze me for a 50 year old design, but then the headers don't fit....

Anyway, I'm thinking about reworking the fender badges. I'm building this for a group build commemorating Apollo 11's moon landing, and those guys DO know what its supposed to look like.

I have some clear blue and red paint. I was thinking about the fiber optic display, maybe I'll put a thin coat of blue/red on them to see how that looks before I glue the cockpit in.

Building this kit has made me want a real C2!


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

If you do decide to get one - look at the 1982 YM. The are a really nice GT quality car. The '79 to '81 are still more of a sports car than a GT.

(And it would be a C3 ('68 to '82). The C2s are the mid year cars built from 1963 to '67) :cheers2:

As to the decals - can you trim them in half to remove either the top or bottom portion?

:lurk5:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Doh! Silly me. I wanted to type C3. Not that I would refuse a C2!


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Most of the body is done. 



















The fender inserts are in and the wheel wells painted.










The windshields are next.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I added the colors to the center dash as suggested by MFR.










The windshields and cockpit are in.



















I'm still working on the fender badges with mixed results.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Can you stretch them once you have an image to print the decal to make them longer and thinner? :lurk5:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

The top is a strip of .010 styrene painted.

The bottom is a page of labels painted. Both will have to be cut to size.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The painted labels on the right look best. Top of 1st one or middle of 3rd one down then. :cheers2:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Another set back.










The after market aircleaner is too tall. Which is odd because I checked it against the kit part.
The culprit could also be that the engine might be mounted high due the fact that I had to cut the engine mounts to clear the headers.

Some surgery will be required.

It does look pretty with the hood open!



















I suppose I could just display it like that. ;-)


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Some success today. 

I ground down the aircleaner and the carbs. I also had to trim the fan and remove the alternator support I made.





































I cut up the painted sheet styrene for the fender badges, so far I'm hopeful they will work.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Those look hopefull. When does the display start?

:lurk5:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I'm calling this done!

































































I left off the LMP on the blue fender badge. I could not come up with a realistic look.

I also do not have the license plates.

I really enjoyed this build! I have a few more cars in my stash too build, I hope its not another 20 years before I build another car.


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## f1steph (Jan 9, 2003)

Nice project, related to Real Space...... I really like Al Bean, he looked like he was a nice and funny man. It's a petty that he passed away in 2018. Him , Pete Conrad and Richard Gordon had so much fun during Apollo 12. But the best part was during the ascent of Apollo 12, after the lightning strikes had caused electrical issues inside the cockpit. When John Aaron said ''Flight, EECOM. Try SCE to Aux. Nobody knew what that switch was, except Bean. Once activated, everything came back to normal. And then you could ear Conrad and Bean laughing like kids about this.... while the Saturn V was still climbing at hight velocity.... Do you know if he did keep that Corvette after all those years....


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

No, as government employees they could not accept the car as a gift so they "leased" them from GM for $1 a year. I think they kept them until they left NASA.

It's sad, politicians can take millions of $$ from anyone they want but the astronauts could not get a free corvette.


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