# Aurora 1966 Robin WIP Tread-How to and why



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

I am going to explain why this color co-ordnation was chosen for the beginner and novice painter.I will be adding lots of step by steps pics for the beginner modeler, since this kit was released a few years back by Revell.
I wanted a sixties color pop art comic flavor, but yet keep all the colors flow together, with correct contrast, but not have the colrs clash.
Color planning is very important for any model, It either make the completed model shine, and give off the right mood, or it will look like just a painted model, with colors clashing.
I usually like to use warm colors on most figure models red, yellow, orange, redish flesh, ivory black, purple, medium green are the colors chosen for this project.
The base is a aqua green mix using light whitest blue with a few drops of light green.This color gives off a comic book look, the base can also be a crazy light purple,or light orange.
The pics show all the colors that I will be using, some colors maybe lighter in shade.
Since I want this model to have a comic flavor the shading will be maxinum 2 tone in selected
places only, the model should look clean, not cluttered with over shading, very subtle colors is the way to go, I will show masking in later pics.
Remember in painting, RULE OF THUMB, where there is dark color shade, there is light shade.
Below is my color template
Back electronic panel-light grey
control lever -red and black
start letters-green with white background
stop letters-red and white background
round light in middle of panel- bright red
3 cone lights on panel-yellow-orange
Rectangle panel light eithe light yellow and orange
2 small control boxes on base- light grey with color ligts -red, yellow orange and green,
control lever on floor box-red
spills on base light transparent groovy purple, and transparent orange
sign- Robin letters Red, backgound medium yellow, small letters black, sign border- dark green.
Rail section- floor- aqua coral green, rails black, front light grey.
Base- aqua coral green
Robin- usual sixties comic color, will get into more detail of colors later on, but most of robin colors on the base and back panel.
Thanks for reading hope this helps out beginner and novice painters.
Randy


----------



## LGFugate (Sep 11, 2000)

Randy, thanks for this thread! I have the Monogram Robin kit in my stash, and want to be able to do it justice. I'll be saving off the thread as it goes and storing a disk with the words and photos in the box with the kit for later reference.

Larry

:thumbsup:


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Sorry about spelling error should be thread.

randy


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Thanks for doing this Randy. I have the original Robin kit that I've subassembled and deseamed. It's waiting for paint (has been for months!) so I'll be watching your paintup with great interest....

Chris.
BTW, were you able to remove the ejector pin mark in the middle of his face? It was a bitch to eliminate, but it can be done successfully.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Auroranut said:


> Thanks for doing this Randy. I have the original Robin kit that I've subassembled and deseamed. It's waiting for paint (has been for months!) so I'll be watching your paintup with great interest....
> 
> Chris.
> BTW, were you able to remove the ejector pin mark in the middle of his face? It was a bitch to eliminate, but it can be done successfully.


The earrly runs didnt have the punch mark in the face, my canadian robin face is perfect, but unfortunely my U.S has it, the worse that I have seen so far, I did remove it, and will paint it,and place it on his body, but will look for one that doesnt have a flaw, built ups pop up at times on ebay.

Randy


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

See how the model is slowly developing that comic flavor? I roughed in the sign and railing unit to show the contrast of warm colors, the sign colors gives it punch, I will probadly go with a black frame for sign, the most important lesson is to keep your painting clean, from brush strokes, streaks, dust bunnies, etc, also the paint should be so thinned out that it also flows like water, adding sevel light coats with a hand brush or with an airbrush.
I recommend strongly to use an airbrush for painting large area surfaces.
Tomorrow I will start masking the large control panel.
Randy


----------



## Frankie Boy (Feb 28, 2002)

Hey, Randy.

What a great thing to do for everybody here. Your work, by the way — as if it needs mentioning — is fabulous!

I have a question:

You say "the paint should be so thinned out that it ... flows like water, adding [several] light coats with a hand brush or with an airbrush". I don't have an airbrush so I need to understand this in hand brush terms only. 

If you're going to put on several water-thin coats, and assuming you're working with acrylics (which are water-based), won't the previous/original coat wash away or dissolve somewhat when you go to put on subsequent coats of paint? (Maybe that's the intention?)

Some people have said that you need to put on a sealant (of presumably something non-water-based) before each additional coat of paint is applied, thus eliminating the possibility of disturbing the previous coat of paint. But you didn't mention doing that.

So what should be done in this regard? What do you do? And again, in hand brush terms only, please. 
I would assume this concern doesn't even exist when air brushing.

Thanks so much.


----------



## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Closed per request of the OP


----------



## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Reopened per request of the OP


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thank you all for reading, I had this posted in another forum,
I picked aqua-green cause its a funky sixties color,very pop art and comic like, but mainly because there is alot light grey going on here, so the aqua -green will add contrast along with black, I am trying not to use silver here, but I did used some bluish flat aluminum on
control lever plate.The name plate gives the base and panel some punch, the name plate contains all of robins uniform colors, so Robin will definitly blend in, and not clash.
The thermometer meter plate is white, with red, the tiny screw heads will be black, the start and stop plates will be white, green lettering for start, glowing red for stop, all guage rims will be black, again for contrast.Even before i started this model I had all these colors in my brain.
like i mentioned before the base could be a light purple, or even a light tangerine color.
Since the base and Robin will have a fair share of green, the chemical spills will be light purple and light orange, I will post more pics as more panel painting develops.
Thanks again for your interest, hope begiinners are getting something out of this, again this model will only be 2 tone shaded, very simple, not complex at all, the most tedious painting is the name plate and guages.I use a triple 0 paint brush for the guage rims.
Randy


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

hankster said:


> Reopened per request of the OP


YAY!
That being said...carry on Randy...This thread is...GREAT!
Mcdee:wave:


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

It is coming along nicely! I agree on the aproach to the colors you chose. Gotta try to keep the comic look to the kit.
And the spills on the floor will definately be different as I usually see those as a green spill. The colors you chose will certainly get attention.

MMM


----------



## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Always love seeing how someone else tackles a kit. I'd say it's safe to say that we all do things differently. You never know what you might learn by seeing someone else's work.

Keep posting, Randy. I will certainly be checking the progress on this kit.

Mark McGovern did a terrific step by step build up of this kit in Modeler's Resource. I believe it was the last 9 issues of that magazine. Very informative. 

Psst! Don't tell Mark I said that, you know the whole ego thing and all that. :lol:


----------



## Kitzillastein58 (Jan 27, 2009)

Hi Buzz,
Looking great so far, the aqua color is an excellent touch, very cool looking. :thumbsup:
I'm very happy to see this thread re-opened. 
To me, it's always a pleasure to watch a Master in action, not to mention the fact that I always try to learn something from your excellent work. 
I appreciate the time and effort that you put into shareing your experience with all of us here, and though I don't get to post my opinions as often as I would like, I just want to say thank you for all that you do.
I greatly look forward to seeing the finished product.

Thanks again!

Kitz' :wave:


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Chemical spills would be lime green, if the base was grey, black, or white, since I used aqua green, the lime green wouldnt add contrast, but in the first pic you can see that orange and purple does add contrast against the aqua green, the base and panel is drying for 24 hours before I mask.I will post once masking has started.
Aurora super heroes IMO cannot be overly done with excess detail and complex shading because they resemble the comic charactor, there is exceptions,for example Dick Tracey base can be painted realistc with rust and grubby effect, and the bricks and girders of the superman kit.

Randy


----------



## Frankie Boy (Feb 28, 2002)

Thanks for re-opening this thread, Randy.

I was wondering if my question might now be addressed, so I understand what I'm looking at as the work on this model progresses.

You say "the paint should be so thinned out that it ... flows like water, adding [several] light coats with a hand brush or with an airbrush". I don't have an airbrush so I need to understand this in hand brush terms only. 

If you're going to put on several water-thin coats, and assuming you're working with acrylics (which are water-based), won't the previous/original coat wash away or dissolve somewhat when you go to put on subsequent coats of paint? (Maybe that's the intention?)

Some people have said that you need to put on a sealant (of presumably something non-water-based) before each additional coat of paint is applied, thus eliminating the possibility of disturbing the previous coat of paint. But you didn't mention doing that.

So what should be done in this regard? What do you do? And again, in hand brush terms only, please. 
I would assume this concern doesn't even exist when air brushing.

Thanks.


----------



## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

Mr buzzconroy:

I believe the problem was a lot of people only viewed the title to the thread. Many do not have that kit so they did not view the thread. I must confess I was guilty. 

However having viewed the thread now, since you posted the second thread, I see it is a goldmine of technique, based on your own talent and experience.

Please continue the thread. I think anyone who saw your buildup of the Monarch Sinbad would say you are a genius in the area of Scale Modeling! I was looking at Wonderfest photos posted on-line today. I paid particular attention to Sinbad. I am amazed at the coordination and total visual symmetry of that buildup. That buildup was more of a 3D art form than a model. 

Can you give us a good amount of reference on how you fill seams and prime? Although that is a basic skill I am lacking in that area.

I am going to read this thread each time I am on Hobbytalk. Looking forward to your ongoing posts, thanks for sharing with us.


----------



## kit-junkie (Apr 8, 2005)

I'm watching, Buzz. I have the Revell repop. I always love your work, man. I've subscribed to this one.


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Very much enjoying the thread, Randy. Please continue...


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Frankie Boy said:


> Thanks for re-opening this thread, Randy.
> 
> I was wondering if my question might now be addressed, so I understand what I'm looking at as the work on this model progresses.
> 
> ...


I am using tamiya acrylics thinned with Tamiya thinner, I let each coat dry 12 hours, depends on colors, some colors take less coats, usually darker colors, i always have a base coat of white acrylic.
Doing a model like robin I do recommend an airbrush for the large surfaces, for a streak free, smooth look.Look at the name plate, the letters are hand brushed the red letters needs 2 more coats making it 5 coats.The red is till not solid red.I dont seal in between coats, make sure the paint is dry, before recoating, let some gases be release as paint cures.
Randy



Randy


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Cajjunwolfman said:


> Mr buzzconroy:
> 
> I believe the problem was a lot of people only viewed the title to the thread. Many do not have that kit so they did not view the thread. I must confess I was guilty.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the compliments, much appreciated, I should do a thread just on the prep work, myself , I use styrene thick glue, it seals up cracks and the seams as it seaps out of the seam, then sand, I also use aves for big gaps,again I will do a thread on prep work in near future.
randy


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

The reason I picked the Robin kit this time, because alot of vintage figure kit lovers bought this kit to build,one note here, if you are doing a revell robin, I recommend the decals from culttvman, since I am doing an original I like to keep authentic.

Randy


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Base masking-chemical spills

I like using silly putty for masking, it works great, I will use it also on back panel guages and on base electronic boxes, silly putting in the red egg will not leave stains, I had this on the base for 24 hours.

Since I ma using light colors, and want a vibrant color effect, again comic flavor, I base coated the the spills with flat white, tonight I may add the colors.

The colors

First spill dripping from the floor box-purple

second spill-medium orange

Purple- approx-70 percent white, 20 percent light blue, 10 percent red, and a tad of gloss clear.

Orange-95 percent gloss yellow-5 percent gloss red

I will add white to these colors for highlights, gloss is being used here because I want a liquid effect, the test tubes and flasks will be gloss also.

Leave the silly putty on until the spills are completed, including highlights,
remeber you are try to achieve clean work, masking at times is very tedious and take patiences, but well awarding at the end.

Like I will make an effort to show how methods are accomplished.The spill on the control box will be coated white and masked with silly putty, btw silly putty can be used over and over again, for me sealing is not necessary if the paint is near cured or fully cleared, depends also on brand of paints, if using art paints i would seal it with dull coat, but remember dull coat will darken a color.
Look at pics how masking was done, and spill colors.
Randy


----------



## otto (Jan 1, 1970)

Wow, I'd have never thought of silly putty. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## DarthForge (Feb 5, 2009)

Does the Silly Putty leave any type of residue on the piece after removal?


----------



## Night-Owl (Mar 17, 2000)

Off to a great start Randy! :thumbsup: You've got some cool color choices.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

DarthForge said:


> Does the Silly Putty leave any type of residue on the piece after removal?


None whatsoever, I had silly putty on model for 4 weeks, no problems, just dont spray dull coat on it though, will become quite gooey.

Randy


----------



## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

buzzconroy said:


> None whatsoever, I had silly putty on model for 4 weeks, no problems, just dont spray dull coat on it though, will become quite gooey.
> 
> Randy


Right there, I just learned something. I knew about Silly Putty for masking but was not aware dullcoat would make it gooey.

That's why I love these types of threads. Most everyone has some knowledge they can share.


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

buzzconroy said:


> None whatsoever, I had silly putty on model for 4 weeks, no problems, just dont spray dull coat on it though, will become quite gooey.
> 
> Randy


Wish I'd known this when I painted my Robin 10 years ago. I masked my spills with chewing gum. Yes, chewing gum. :freak: Which most definitely _do_ leave a residue.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

The spills are done at this point, where I can move on to other parts, I will come back to the spills when the floor boxes and panel/name plate are done.I will lighten or darken areas of the spills.Its best not to concentrate too much on or in one area, for example the floor will get a lighter color of aqua green mist to high light front of base, and the back panel may get lighter grey mists on corners when all the base areas done.Notice on the spills where there is dark hues, there is light hues, like I said before, where there is dark there is light, I cannot stress this enough when painting.Make sure enough paint base color is mixed for adding more hightlights later on, or fixing mistakes or little accidents, that can occur to the best of us lol.
I started masking on back panel, but I will show pics of mask areas, I will get more into the control panel in next session.
I know this seems drawn out, but I am concentrating on beginners or the novice painters who maybe overwhelmed on the painting aspect of this kit.
The number one rule is DONT RUSH and let the PAINT DRY WELL, before proceding to shading or adding more coats.Stay tune to next session, control panel.
Randy

BASE WHITE APPLIED










MEDIUM COLOR APPLIED










DARK SHADE APPLIED










LIGHTER HIGHLIGHTS APPLIED


----------



## Frankie Boy (Feb 28, 2002)

Were the black rings around the circular gauges, as well as the dark grey upper left hand rectangular panel and the long narrow white strip below it, painted using the same silly putty masking technique?


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Frankie Boy said:


> Were the black rings around the circular gauges, as well as the dark grey upper left hand rectangular panel and the long narrow white strip below it, painted using the same silly putty masking technique?


Hi

I will explain all this in next session as stated above, I did roughed in some guages just to see the color contrast against neame plate and spills/base contrast.
Randy


----------



## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Its coming along great, Randy - I really like the colors you are using.


----------



## Kitzillastein58 (Jan 27, 2009)

Looks great so far Buzz, and I am still in awe of your Silly Putty masking technique. 
I never heard of that before, gotta try it out on something! 
Thank you for passing that along Buzz! 

Kitz' :wave:


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Actually I learned about silly putty for masking 7 years ago from the tank and armor modelers.

Randy


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

This wip is great Randy, keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

I saw your rendering of the Monarch Sinbad at WF, that is one sweet kit. Thanks for showing us all of your work over the years.

RK


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Great tip on the Silly Putty! I've heard of it but it is great to see it used in action.

So far so good on the base!

MMM


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Back Panel Rail Assy=Painting Railing

To get a sharp edge on the black railing , I use the plastic platform semi-circle model part for a template,I trace the outline of the part on vinyl stencil with no residue stick backing, bought this vinyl sheet at Micheals, cant think of the brand name at this moment, but will list it in a few days.Make sure this is done before rail platform is glued, I used a 0.1 marker pen to draw the outline,to cut the template out I strongly recommend very sharp scissors with a very sharp narrow tip, decal scissors are excellent for this job.Cut close to the black line, make sure the cut is very smooth without jagged edges, or it will show up on your painting.I used an airbrush to apply the black paint, but a hand brush can be used also.
The next step, is to add a bluish white highlight on railing bend and cement name plate-make sure the paint is scrapped on edges where to be cemented.
The bluish-white highlight will be the same hue as Robin's hair highlights.
see pics below.I use the vinyl stencil for Sinbads vest patterns-great stuff.
Materials used



















Masking using Template and Tamiya Masking Tape



















Railing Painted, notice how sharp and clean the railing looks.










See how things are starting to come together, the nameplate is almost done, with the blue shading on railing bend it will bring out the comic look even more.
The colors work together well here, they are balance,with the right amount contrast needed.


----------



## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Nice and clean looking so far, Randy.


----------



## Frankie Boy (Feb 28, 2002)

Very clean looking so far ... very 60's and very comic book-y! 
And, wow ... the prep work is fascinating.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thanks all for the great reviews all, glad you are enjoying the wips, the secret of modeling is taking your time, let the paint dry well before masking, very slow process, but at the end, its all worth the effort.I always wear vinyl gloves, my bare fingers never touches the painted model, oil from bare fingers can spoil the flat finish, like i said keep it clean.
Randy


----------



## Rebel Rocker (Jan 26, 2000)

Buzz, can't thank you enough for these WIP's! Keep 'em comin'! It always amazes me to find out just how little I know!! It's very gratifying to continually learn more about my fav hobby!!

Wayne


----------



## Parts Pit Mike (Jan 3, 2001)

Love these how to's.... thanks Buzz !


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

My pleasure everyone, glad you are getting something out of the WIPS.Like I said before the more you paint the more your skills develope, I am always something new even after 40 years of painting, tahts why I love this hobby, every kit has its owe flavor, for example the gladiator will have complex shading, because of its realistic sculpt, shadows everywhere, same as for the Iwo jima kit.

working now on the back control panel, will add pics as I move along, so I can post several pics at a time.I think there is more work on the base and control panel than the actual figure.

Randy


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Love how the colors just POP, Randy! This is the kind of work I wish I could have done years ago!


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

One quick question about using silly putty for masking...Can it be re-used and if so, how long will it last?
Mcdee


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Yes silly putty can be applied over and over, I am not sure how long it can be use,before replacing it.If a tiny piece of silly putty gets trapped in a small crevice, use another piece of silly putty to pick it up....great stuff.

randy


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Cool... Thanks for the tip Randy...I just picked up a bunch at TRU on the way home from work...:thumbsup:
Mcdee


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Only use the red egg original silly putty, not the others like glitter, glow, etc, they will stain your paint.

randy


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

I lucked out, the Robin head that I have had severe damage from a punch sinc mark, it was the worse punch mark that I have seen, I will not live with this since this is an original model, but I was able to win an original first run built up robin without the punch mark damage off ebay.

I am still masking control panel and control boxes ,I will post pics as soon this in done.

Randy

This is the Robin head that I won off ebay.


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Hey Randy what's the punch mark head look like? 
Photo please? If you have time. :hat:

RK


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Roy, I have the head with the ejector pin mark and it's not pretty! I've repaired mine and it's a fairly big job....
It's in the middle of his mask and takes out the edges of the eyeholes.

Chris.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Roy Kirchoff said:


> Hey Randy what's the punch mark head look like?
> Photo please? If you have time. :hat:
> 
> RK


Sorry Roy but I already removed it,The punch mark distored eyes,nose and eye brows.I have a canadian mib without the punch mark.

Randy


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

As you can see from pics, that its slowly developing, the back panel next step is to fine tune and touch up spots, this kit is not for the faint of heart unless you are doing the Revell kit.The guages background are painted white ,because the decal is white and it is smaller than the guage.The control boxes need to be done also, I am about half way done on just the base and back panel.This should look dazzling when completed, I have been preppng Robin also.Stay tuned.

Randy


----------



## Robert Wolfe (Dec 24, 2003)

WOW that is really comin along it looks good


----------



## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

"this kit is not for the faint of heart" - or the shaky of hand! Great work!


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Lookin' _very_ good Randy!


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Very nice Randy! The details are looking mighty fine on the base!

MMM


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Is it just the Aurora's with the punch mark or do the Revell issues have the same flaw?  

RK


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Roy Kirchoff said:


> Is it just the Aurora's with the punch mark or do the Revell issues have the same flaw?
> 
> RK


It's only the '66 Aurora head that has the punch. The Revell re-issues use the '74 Comic Scenes head, which is a completely different sculpt.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

The canadian issues and first run U.S have no punch, those seal kits from a warehouse seem to have the punch sinc mark.

Randy


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Thanks for the info Zorro and Randy.

RK


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Here is a flash back and current progress on back panel and base, its comming, back panel still not finish, needs detailing on danger box, 3 yellow lights detailing, start and stop lights needs tidying up and 2 more coats of paint, detailing on solinoids.
The control guages on floor boxes are not done, but detailing has begun, again the trick is to keep work clean, masking is very time comsuming, modeling cant be rushed, paint drying is a important factor on a great finish model of any type of model.
Flash back and current work.
















































CURENT WIP


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thanks again Tom Parker for the decals, they went on without issues, much appreciated.

Randy


----------



## Robert Wolfe (Dec 24, 2003)

man that is looking good you sure got a knack for that paint thing rob


----------



## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

Really impressive so far Randy!! I was looking at my original I did years ago and it looks shabby in comparison. Makes me want to re-do it now. Yous really captures the comics feel!!!
Steve


----------



## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Love the base, Randy...can't wait to see your handling of the Boy Wonder himself!


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

As you notice that all the colors are flat, except for green light on the panel, its semi-gloss, like I mentioned earlier, want a comic book look and a pop art sixties look, so bright colors were used.Waiting for the robin head still, once it arrives I will mix the flesh color, I am currently working on the control boxes and test tubes, the name plate is completed, stay tuned for more wips, thanks for the compliments, glad you all are enjoying this project much as me painting it.I included a comic from silver age to show the comic flesh tones that I will be using,or close to the color, remember Robin is in a panic to turn of the power to save Batman probadly.

Randy












Randy


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

buzzconroy said:


> Randy


Man, I _loved_ those Carmine Infantino covers!


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Carmine and Kirby are my favorite comic artists.

randy


----------



## BrianM (Dec 3, 1998)

Awesome work, as usual. I would like to see the nameplate. Will it have the same color scheme?


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

BrianM said:


> Awesome work, as usual. I would like to see the nameplate. Will it have the same color scheme?


 
Here is the completed nameplate placed on base. its not in position yet, it will take me about 15-20 hours to complete just the base and back panel, lots of detail on the control boxes left to do.I painted the floor box and panel levers, as you can see in pic, its starting to have 1960's flavor.

Randy


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Man Buzz this is looking Great!...
Mcdee


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Robins base is looking great buzz :thumbsup:.

Keep'em coming!


Thanks for sharing your hard work with us. :wave:

RK


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

The punch free Robin head arrived, stripped off paint, its ready for prep.

Randy


----------



## Parts Pit Mike (Jan 3, 2001)

Loving these updates.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Here is a pic of the the head, without the dreadful punch mark.I just got this Robin off ebay, for just the head.This is very very scarce, I defintley lucked out.
Randy

before stripping paint










After-paint has been removed, see how clean the head is without the punch mark.Scalecoat was used to strip the paint.


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Thanks for that last pic Randy. I can see where I've missed some details in my repair (the 2 marks between the eyebrows). Out with the putty again...

Chris.


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

Cool...Can't wait for more !!!
Mcdee


----------



## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

That head cleaned up nicely!!


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Robin looks _much_ more alarmed without the paint!


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Since I use very thinned out paint, using an airbrush, the alarm look will be present.Usually enamals and thick acrylic paint will cover up the fine details,
Btw this is my first Robin, never had it as a kid, due to the challlenge of painting.

randy


----------



## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Zorro said:


> Robin looks _much_ more alarmed without the paint!


Just what I was thinking; I was going to say that his expression changed without the paint, but you beat me to it!

The Robin kit seems to generate a lot of interest. There was apparently a warehouse find of Robin kits, but that didn't make the kit dirt cheap; there are any munber of ways to paint the base details, and whichever way you paint them it's probably the most colourful kit; and there are several different replacement parts on offer. 
For whatever reason, you don't see this sort of interest for the Batman kit!


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> Just what I was thinking; I was going to say that his expression changed without the paint, but you beat me to it!
> 
> The Robin kit seems to generate a lot of interest. There was apparently a warehouse find of Robin kits, but that didn't make the kit dirt cheap; there are any munber of ways to paint the base details, and whichever way you paint them it's probably the most colourful kit; and there are several different replacement parts on offer.
> For whatever reason, you don't see this sort of interest for the Batman kit!


As a major Aurora fan and a major Batman fan I have to say that Aurora's Batman kit is one of the least dynamic, flat sculpts they ever produced. I built it for the first time when I was 9 and I pretty much felt that way then too. And don't even mention the lopsided owl. Or the fact that the Gotham Knight was running around in the woods in the first place. Somebody at Aurora should have told the sculptor; "I think we can do better than this."


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

I agree with Zorro one hundred percent, the batman model is a great kit, its has that 1960's comic look, depends how it is painted, I added nose and brows highlights like Carmine's art, the robin will look great beside batman,
very underrated kit indeed.I added pics of my batman with the comic look.
When approaching the comic look, the shading has to be subtle,smooth and simple, two tones max. in most cases.
Randy


----------



## Cappy D (Jun 19, 2004)

Very nice Batman, and am looking forward to your Robin. I've got an old Robin built-up waiting in the wings myself.

Cappy D


----------



## mrmurph (Nov 21, 2007)

Randy, you are simply amazing! That Robin base is a thing of beauty - bright, colorful, and true to the feeling of a comic book. Like the other posters before me, I can't wait to see what you do with the Robin figure itself.
Just looking at this thread and your work made my whole weekend! Thanks so much for sharing your talent and technique.
(And the same to the rest of you who post your work).


----------



## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

WOW...Hadn't seen your Batman before...:thumbsup: I'm lovin' this tutorial!
Mcdee


----------



## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Great looking Batman, Randy!


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thank you all for the compliments , I havent worked on Robin, because of company visiting, will start again next week.

Randy


----------



## yamahog (Nov 19, 1998)

*Back to Work*



buzzconroy said:


> Thank you all for the compliments , I havent worked on Robin, because of company visiting, will start again next week.


Randy, get rid of the company!


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

yamahog said:


> Randy, get rid of the company!


Yes. Their continued presence is inconvenient to us.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Zorro said:


> Yes. Their continued presence is inconvenient to us.


 

Me also, have a good supply of advils, can take sister in law in very small doses, they are leaving on Friday morning now.

Randy


----------



## Parts Pit Mike (Jan 3, 2001)

Hang in there buddy.


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Have they left yet?


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Yes, I am working on Robin will post pics when i get robin's base coating done.Very tedious, not much too show.

Randy


----------



## dklange (Apr 25, 2009)

*Good Stuff!*

Randy - What an excellent how-to thread!! I did not know that there were original heads without the "punch" mark!! I just filled and sanded mine... what a headache!!! Here's a couple shots of my finished Robin. I did use the after-market decals, I liked them better. Can't wait for you to continue... 

- Denis


----------



## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

HEY DKLANGE ANOTHER great job that looks great i still have to get to mine thanks for posting that


----------



## Cappy D (Jun 19, 2004)

Great model, dklange. All these Robins makes me want to dig out my old Robin built-up and get cracking!

Cappy D


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Please be patient, I am working on Robin, I take my time, to achieve a high quality looking model, lots of masking on this kit, I will post as soon as it developes more, responding to some emails.
Thank you
Randy


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

dklange said:


> Randy - What an excellent how-to thread!! I did not know that there were original heads without the "punch" mark!! I just filled and sanded mine... what a headache!!! Here's a couple shots of my finished Robin. I did use the after-market decals, I liked them better. Can't wait for you to continue...
> 
> - Denis


Great looking build-up Denis!

MMM


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

Randy, are you still working on this? I was following it with a lot of interest.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Hi, I havent been modeling on Robin because of commision work, its comming though, i should be at it next week.

Randy


----------



## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Take your time Randy. All good things take time...:wave:

Chris.


----------



## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Yep - Definitely take your time. We want you to have fun so you keep posting these WIPs


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Hi fella's and ladies, well I am right back into this project, I will show pics as soon as I finish some detailing, I just have basic colors painted on his uiniform, I have to let the paint cure for about 7 days, before sealing it.
I remove the green I had, before, it was too dark, the red also was removed, didnt like the darkness, I am very picky, lol, anyways I am back on track.I am very pleased with the colors now, now the tedious masking. lol.

Randy


----------



## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

Looking forward to it!!!
Steve


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Here are some wips of the figure, its comming around slowly, nothing is finished yet,except for the skin tones , tomorrow I will do the sleeves, they are roughed in, for flesh color shading, 
Hair needs blue highlights
lips and mouth to be done
details on vest
shading is finish on vest and cape
Like I said I am going for the comic book look.
It will all tie in together at the end.
Randy


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Randy,

Looks great so far...the figure has some nice shading to the fleshtones!

MMM


----------



## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Great colours, but remember, Robin's legs were never bare - movie photos and TV stills show that he was always wearing pink tights!


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> Great colours, but remember, Robin's legs were never bare - movie photos and TV stills show that he was always wearing pink tights!


But this is the "comic book" version.


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

I really enjoy watching this thread. Lovely work. I have an original Robin I've stripped -- sadly, with a bit of the notorious sinkmark. I'm storing tips from this thread for when I finally get to it. I like the original release so much better than the later version -- a little more cheesy, but fun.

How come nobody ever did a sinkmark-less, resin original Robin head from one of the original ones that didn't have it?


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Most child built up robins on ebay are punch mark free on the face, thats how I got mine.

This Robin is sculpted from the silver age comic era, its not burt ward, this kit in one of Aurora's best action pose imo. far as I am concern this kit is WAY underated.

The kits from the warehouse find seem to l have that face punchmark and mold flaw pieces on most kits.

Randy


----------



## GordonMitchell (Feb 12, 2009)

Hi Randy,these images are fantastic,I am a big fan of the Carmen artwork and i remember when i was a lot younger trying to copy/draw a center page art work of Batman and Robin on a roof top with the moon behind them,I'd love to see that again,your Batman is fantastic and can't wait to see Robin finished,I had to check mine and it is punch free,I got the whole model a while back on E-Bay and it now complements my first issue Batman,cheers,Gordon:thumbsup:


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> Great colours, but remember, Robin's legs were never bare - movie photos and TV stills show that he was always wearing pink tights!


Burt Ward with bare legs


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

GordonMitchell said:


> Hi Randy,these images are fantastic,I am a big fan of the Carmen artwork and i remember when i was a lot younger trying to copy/draw a center page art work of Batman and Robin on a roof top with the moon behind them,I'd love to see that again,your Batman is fantastic and can't wait to see Robin finished,I had to check mine and it is punch free,I got the whole model a while back on E-Bay and it now complements my first issue Batman,cheers,Gordon:thumbsup:


I agree, Carmine is my favorite comic artist also, I have a couple of comics signed by him.
I remember as a kid I had a paperback with that rooftop art, I love it.
Randy


----------



## GordonMitchell (Feb 12, 2009)

Oh wow,that's the beast Randy,thanks for posting it,all the best with the build,and I'll keep watching,Gordon:thumbsup:


----------



## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

buzzconroy said:


> Burt Ward with bare legs


Wow, interesting photo, though I wonder if it's a TV or movie still - that rusty ladder would probably not have been used in filming.


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> Wow, interesting photo, though I wonder if it's a TV or movie still - that rusty ladder would probably not have been used in filming.


From the face and hair I'm going to guess that photo is actually from the 1970s. Both West and Ward eeked out some income doing personal appearances "in costume" for a number of years after the show went off the air.


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

buzzconroy said:


> I agree, Carmine is my favorite comic artist also, I have a couple of comics signed by him.
> I remember as a kid I had a paperback with that rooftop art, I love it.
> Randy


^That's the kit(s) I always _wished_ Aurora had done back in the Sixties. Adjoining bases ala' "The Man From Uncle". Infantino was by far the dominant Batman artist during that period and his artwork above is absolutely iconic.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

The Aurora Batman boxart is one of my favorite drawing by Carmine, just amazing, he is a gentleman, also, glad i met him.

Randy


----------



## sprayray (May 13, 2009)

Zorro said:


> ^That's the kit(s) I always _wished_ Aurora had done back in the Sixties. Adjoining bases ala' "The Man From Uncle". Infantino was by far the dominant Batman artist during that period and his artwork above is absolutely iconic.


Yea Zorro that would have been a cool kit look at what i found in case you did not know .

Robert


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

sprayray said:


> Yea Zorro that would have been a cool kit look at what i found in case you did not know .
> 
> Robert


Cool! If it were in the Infantino style I'd break down and buy one for sure.


----------



## sprayray (May 13, 2009)

Zorro said:


> Cool! If it were in the Infantino style I'd break down and buy one for sure.


Yea im thinking about it , maybe stripping it down and repainting the whole thing Carmine Infantino style give it that retro look . But keep in mind this is as close ae we will get to it in kit form of that infamous rooftop scene. 

Robert


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

sprayray said:


> Yea im thinking about it , maybe stripping it down and repainting the whole thing Carmine Infantino style give it that retro look . But keep in mind this is as close ae we will get to it in kit form of that infamous rooftop scene.
> 
> Robert


Well ... actually, I just found this!










But at $500.00 and some change, I think I'll pass. 

http://www.wizarduniverse.com/jul050321.html


----------



## sprayray (May 13, 2009)

Zorro said:


> Well ... actually, I just found this!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yea Brother and it's not that big a statue for that price $150.00 maybe i would pick it up but not for $525.00 that's 3 resin kits and a couple moebius kits , the latter one i showed is only $145.00 and i like the batman figure on that one and robin figure on the more expensive one go figure ? lol .

Robert


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

This would make a fantastic kit from Moebius, if the DC license was available. So much better than anything from the movies -- can you imagine choosing between two kits that make a classic scene like this, or a kit of Christian Bale? 

Maybe some would rather see the Bale figure, and not that there's anything wrong with that, but for me, it would be like choosing between the 1966 Batmobile and the tumble bug, which does not excite me, and I'd guess is nowhere near as loved as the Adam West ride.


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Kit said:


> This would make a fantastic kit from Moebius, if the DC license was available. So much better than anything from the movies -- can you imagine choosing between two kits that make a classic scene like this, or a kit of Christian Bale?
> 
> Maybe some would rather see the Bale figure, and not that there's anything wrong with that, but for me, it would be like choosing between the 1966 Batmobile and the tumble bug, which does not excite me, and I'd guess is nowhere near as loved as the Adam West ride.


I got no problem with Bale but yeah, I'd kill for Silver Age Batman & Robin kits similar to what's posted above. Unfortunately, I believe that Moebius has already stated that a DC license is unlikely.


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

You're probably right, and it may be insane to think they could get a DC license, but there's always hope. Didn't someone from Moebius say at one point that the 2001 license was unavailable, and yet here comes the Moonbus.


----------



## otto (Jan 1, 1970)

I think after the Marvel kits are done that they would want to do DC. It wouldjust be the next logical step. I wouldnt write off the DC license just yet. It might be a few years, but I believe it could very well happen...someday anywho...


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

That was my thinking. It would be very cool. Imagine them with the Batman license! (Assuming they go classic and not movie first.)

My only worries would be the choice of subject and the choice of poses. So far, Moebius has put out great kits, but I feel the spectacular home runs have the been vehicles, where pose is not so much an issue. 

The figures they've produced have had very static poses, and on characters from very different license holders -- Iron Man and Frankie, for instance -- which makes me suspect some of that is the Moebius folks' personal taste. Even the Moebius Spidey, which I can see some of the guys love, is a beautifully put-together kit, but with a passive pose. Green Goblin is more like it, so it seems clear they can do it.

It's their company, so I guess if I want more interesting scenes, I should start my own model kit business, but an action scene like the Infantino rooftop is so much more exciting that I'd hope they'd go for it. From the little contact I've had with DC editors, it would not take too many phone calls to have support from the inside. There are guys even there who built Aurora kits and think this stuff is cool, I've heard.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thats why I love Aurora super heros, most of them are in action poses, the Spiderman kit is one of my favorites.

Randy


----------



## Cappy D (Jun 19, 2004)

I am eagerly awaiting the completion of the Robin model.

Cappy D.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Almost done...............waiting for paint to cure, working on vest and test tubes, everything else is done.

Randy


----------



## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Cool!  

RK


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Hi all, almost done ,here are wips so far, its slowly all comming together, you will see it all come together on final completed pics.

*Head-Completed*

*Vest-Needs fine detailing,tidy up belt*
*buckle add fine black lines to buckle.*
*One more paint coat on belt.*
*check for touch ups.*









*Right arm-touch up final details on sleeve*











*Left arm-touch up final details on sleeves, tidy up lines on sleeve.*










*If you were following the wips on this project, you*
*can see the transformation of roughed in to final detailing, I wanted to achieve a mid range comic look without doing actual black line art, because I wanted the model to be viewed at all angles.*
*The model should be completed by mid next week. I will start a new completed thread, hope you all enjoyed this project.Thanks again for looking.*

*Randy*


----------



## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Lookin' fantastic, Randy! Just don't let any more relatives come over!


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Thanksgiving this weekend, THEY ARE INVADING !!!!! I will be busy in kitchen, doing a 7lb prime rib and all the fixins, have to make 2 pumpkin pies,biscuits, so I will be out of the hobby room for a few days preparing dinner for Sunday.Problem is everyone loves my cooking, so I have relatives frequently.
Like they say, a friends will have dinner and go home after.....relatives will STAY for days and take over household lol.

Randy


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

Great stuff.


----------



## Aurora-brat (Oct 23, 2002)

Randy,

I have really enjoyed watching this progress. I know it can be a pain in the rump to have to stop and photograph things along the way and I just want you to know it was greatly appreciated. I can't wait to see the finished model, it will be superb no doubt!

Tory


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Aurora-brat said:


> Randy,
> 
> I have really enjoyed watching this progress. I know it can be a pain in the rump to have to stop and photograph things along the way and I just want you to know it was greatly appreciated. I can't wait to see the finished model, it will be superb no doubt!
> 
> Tory


My pleasure, glad you and everyone else enjoyed this wip.

Randy


----------



## Kit (Jul 9, 2009)

Really enjoying it. Thanks for posting.


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Well the Robin is all completed, finished it late Friday night, I will post pics in a new thread, I am busy with thanksgiving cooking and guests today, they will leave tomorrow morning, so I will take some pics of it.It looks great beside the Batman, I will also add a pic of the pair beside eachother if you like.
Well back into the kitchen lol.

Randy


----------



## sprayray (May 13, 2009)

Sounds cool Randy can't wait to check them out !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mb1k (May 6, 2002)

Bump! Where's the new thread with the finished pics?


----------



## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

THANKS for the time it took to do this your work is AWESOME


----------



## buzzconroy (Jun 28, 2002)

Finished model
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=268663


----------



## mb1k (May 6, 2002)

Thanks, I swear the "search" function on this forum is against me.


----------

