# Chariot Work In Progress



## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Well, here are a couple photo's of work so far. More painting work than actual assembly so far (and I haven't started on the canopy yet).

I used Testors Titanium metalizer for body and chrome silver for trim. I used the same orange as I did on the Space Pod (Racing Orange). 

For thetreads I used Super Glue Plasti-Fusion (worked great).

So far I am enjoying the kit.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

That looks very nice!
it's a fun build isn't it?...

Steve


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

steve123 said:


> That looks very nice!
> it's a fun build isn't it?...
> 
> Steve


Yes, and like the Space Pod the parts fit is very good. I am using up a lot of masking tape though  (I masked the trim lines on the body).

I have the Aztek paint masks for the canopy; so that will help there.

Still deciding if I want to use the kit curtains or try and scratch some up like in a few other threads here on the Chariot.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I think some foil cupcake liners have to look better than the kit curtains..

I'm going to tackle the windows without the masks, I'm going to use black or dark grey inside the canopy, I really don't like the look of orange underneath the silver frames.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

What type of paint did you use on the wheels so the treads don't react against them?


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

DR. PRETORIOUS said:


> What type of paint did you use on the wheels so the treads don't react against them?


Hopefulley it will work, but I clear coated them, then used metalizer aluminum plate for the color, then gave them A LOT of the metalizer sealer.

Anyone know how long before I would see an issue if its going to happen???


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DLHamblin said:


> Hopefulley it will work, but I clear coated them, then used metalizer aluminum plate for the color, then gave them A LOT of the metalizer sealer.
> 
> Anyone know how long before I would see an issue if its going to happen???


Mine took about 2 months to start showing, at least that's when I noticed
it. Moebius was very fast to take care of it for me. I will try foil tape this time.


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

teslabe said:


> Mine took about 2 months to start showing, at least that's when I noticed
> it. Moebius was very fast to take care of it for me. I will try foil tape this time.


Are the replacement wheels the same silver plastic or a nuetral gray like the other kits? My understanding is the issue is only with the silver colored plastic used in the Chariot kits?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DLHamblin said:


> Are the replacement wheels the same silver plastic or a nuetral gray like the other kits? My understanding is the issue is only with the silver colored plastic used in the Chariot kits?


Not sure, I'll let you know when the replacement kit gets here.


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Its looking very cool so far, Thanks for sharing!


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

lookin good!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

My kit is a recent issue. (all the vinyl parts are in their own bag) and my wheels are silver.
All of the older kits that have this problem, I'm wondering if it's "wear and tear".
Maybe it's out running around the house while the owners are asleep?
Steve


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

All the vinyl parts in all the kits are the same , all the plastic parts are the same as well...
We have been told that the PVC formula of all the vinyl parts has been changed from previous formulas(that did not react with plastic parts) to make the vinyl parts "environmentally friendly" In other words they have had to eliminate the phthalates from the formula if the parts are to be imported into the US..
The only advice that I can offer at this exact moment is to coat the plastic wheels with something that will provide a barrier between the plastic and vinyl. Aluminum foil tape might also be effective - I'd suggest the heavy guage stuff used for sealing heat ducts not bare metal foil as bare metal is not rtobust enough to take the stress of putting the tires on the wheels.
I just built two more Chriots for display pieces at Comic Con one of them did not survive intact - on those kits I dipped all the unpainted wheels in Future and let them dry thoroughl before putting the tires on them..fortunately the busted model has donated some wheels and tires for me to watch for plastic rot....another thought I have is bare metal foil on the wheels then dip it in Future?
We are still trying to get a more definitive answer for the problem...

Dave


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I still think it's gremlins...

I have cast many strong spells to banish these vinyl demons.

I have primed with testor's flat white primer, just now I shot metalizer titanium. tomorrow morning I will coat with future. we will start a timeline tomorrow. But I really think some good coats of paint will banish these vinyl demons..oh, and I spilt some good vodka on the altar of "Plasticus" also..

The "destructions" say to heat the tires in warm/hot water,...I'm finding that if you pop a couple of them in your mouth while working on other things...they get warm enough to put on the wheels,...

And they are kind of tasty..I've ordered a few dozen....

Steve


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

This will not be a big problem for me at all, now that I know how to address it.
Moebius makes ,IMHO, the best kits on the market today and I'm a very happy builder......:thumbsup:
Lets please move on and have fun with all that we have before us.......


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I was being silly, Kent. What would you do differently?..I meant no slight to you or Moebius..


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

steve123 said:


> I was being silly, Kent. What would you do differently?..I meant no slight to you or Moebius..


Hi Steve, continue to have fun with your posts.....:wave: I just needed to make sure anyone out there, new to the group, knew how I'm still very very happy with Moebius's kits and Moebius as a company.....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: My post was just an FYI for
DLHamblin....


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Dave Metzner said:


> All the vinyl parts in all the kits are the same , all the plastic parts are the same as well...
> We have been told that the PVC formula of all the vinyl parts has been changed from previous formulas(that did not react with plastic parts) to make the vinyl parts "environmentally friendly" In other words they have had to eliminate the phthalates from the formula if the parts are to be imported into the US..
> The only advice that I can offer at this exact moment is to coat the plastic wheels with something that will provide a barrier between the plastic and vinyl. Aluminum foil tape might also be effective - I'd suggest the heavy guage stuff used for sealing heat ducts not bare metal foil as bare metal is not rtobust enough to take the stress of putting the tires on the wheels.
> I just built two more Chriots for display pieces at Comic Con one of them did not survive intact - on those kits I dipped all the unpainted wheels in Future and let them dry thoroughl before putting the tires on them..fortunately the busted model has donated some wheels and tires for me to watch for plastic rot....another thought I have is bare metal foil on the wheels then dip it in Future?
> ...



Based on this, I think I will pull my wheels back off tonight and put some foil tape (I have the aluminum duct tape) on them just to be sure.

Its turning out so well I'd hate to have "wheel rot" in a few months. :tongue:


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

The good thing about Chariot is I believe that wheels can be removed from an assembled model - tires dismounted and tape or some other barrier added to the wheels and then the model can be re-assembled...IF you haven't super glued the wheels to the axles....

Dave


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Your build is coming along very nicely. I think the learning curve on this kit with all of us that have finished it will certainly help those of you currently working on it. I probably went overboard with the brass rim covers, but it was worth the effort to me and hopefully will solve any future problems. I have to say too, that after building two Moebius kits in a row, then doing some Polar Lights kits, there is no comparison to the quality and fit of the Moebius kits. They rival the Monogram kits from the 70's in my opinion as far as fit and finish. Nice to work with. (Better masters in the first place may be a HUGE factor in what we get on the recieving end) This kit will bring you lot's of enjoyment when it's done. Mine is in a display case, and I enjoy looking at it and lighting it up a couple times a week! Even people who come to your house who DON'T play with models (indigents!), will recognize and applaud your efforts! LOL! (My Seaview does the same thing!) Keep us posted on your progress! I enjoy watching these progress threads! :wave:


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

DLHamblin said:


> Based on this, I think I will pull my wheels back off tonight and put some foil tape (I have the aluminum duct tape) on them just to be sure.
> 
> Its turning out so well I'd hate to have "wheel rot" in a few months. :tongue:


Here is the wheels with the aluminum foil tape. Once re-assembled you can't see it unless you know its there!

A great suggestion! Thanks Dave!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DLHamblin said:


> Here is the wheels with the aluminum foil tape. Once re-assembled you can't see it unless you know its there!
> 
> A great suggestion! Thanks Dave!


Very nice work.....:thumbsup:


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## stevezodiak (Aug 27, 2008)

Having tried everything to keep my wheels from melting I am really glad to find this solution.


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

stevezodiak said:


> Having tried everything to keep my wheels from melting I am really glad to find this solution.


I will also add the aluminum foil duct tape stayed put while putting the tires back on (I had the tires sitting in hot water to soften a bit).


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

That's what I was wondering! it's a pretty tight fit. I was going to dip mine in future (instead of painting them with it)...but the foil might be more bullet proof.

Steve


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Since I was working on the Space Pod Diorama, not a lot of progress, have the wheels and treads all back on and most of the interior.

Will be starting the canopy soon!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here's where I'm at. I'm not a big fan of this kit..... Silver styrene can be problematic...maybe next re-issue white or grey styrene.

Removing, or trying to remove, not so much as a mold seam but a "step" or missmatch in the mold for the drive sprocket, took several hours.

The plastic is soft, but brittle...how does that happen?









Today, Allen willing...lol, I paint the outer hull.

Steve


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Yes, I am not a fan of the silver plastic either; it does seem to have different properties than the gray the Space Pod was for sure, but I am still enjoying the kit.


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

I don't know guys ... I guess I did something wrong ... my Chariot has been sitting on the shelf for better than 6 months with no sign of the wheels melting ...


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Between work and my son's starting back to school I hadn't made a lot of progress, but this weekend I finished up the doors and canopy painting.

I will post some pic's tonight but I want to say how pleased I am with the Aztek Dummy masks. The results are great!

I used the trick of once masked, I sprayed orange, let dry then sparyed the aluminum. There was nothing wrong with the orange vinyl that comes with the masks; thats just how I did plane canopy's in the past and chose it.

There was no bleed under the masks at all.


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

With respect to the problem of the material of the wheels and treads interacting, would it be practical to paint the wheels with car paint to seal them?

I would think that a Duplicolor filler type primer followed by a coat of Duplicolor paint of an appropriate color ought to do the trick nicely. Car paint is pretty rugged stuff, so I've been told. And Duplicolr paint and primer is very common.

Huzz


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

I have four wheels that were dipped in Future Floor wax - they were unpainted piror to the dip in Future then tires were put on them - These were done at the time of Comic con - so far no sign of the pvc atttacking the styrene...
The other sure cure is to wrap the wheels in aluminum duct tape.. this effectively isolates the styrene from the PVC...


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## Dave Hussey (Nov 20, 1998)

Well Marty, Its Back to the Future!!!

Huzz:lol:


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Here is the canopy sitting on the chassis (I still have the interior details to add so its not glued):









Here is the inside (I painted organge first, then topped with aluminum):









Here is a shot of it on table:









Again, I really recommend the Aztek Dummy masks!


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Looking very nice so far! This is one of the tougher kit's to do as far as that canopy, but your right, the A.D.masks are an invaluable tool and a key to doing it successfully! 

My wife told me to sell mine on ebay after a friend commented I could get big bucks out of it, but there's no way!! LOL!! I love the build, but I don't want to do another one any time soon!


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

Tim Nolan said:


> Looking very nice so far! This is one of the tougher kit's to do as far as that canopy, but your right, the A.D.masks are an invaluable tool and a key to doing it successfully!
> 
> My wife told me to sell mine on ebay after a friend commented I could get big bucks out of it, but there's no way!! LOL!! I love the build, but I don't want to do another one any time soon!


Yes, I've decided to do my new 1/350 Seaview next before taking on the 1/32 Flying Sub or large Seaview model.

Once the Chariot is done I will do the robot then make a little diorama case like I did for my Space Pod.


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## B-9 (Jun 8, 2009)

I'm coming in on this a little late, but I examined my Chariot and noticed a slight melting along the rim edges. I had painted them with a light coat of Duplicolor metallic silver back in August of 08. Had the paint been thicker I doubt there would have been any deterioration. Just the same, I'm doing the foil tape wrap thing.


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## DLHamblin (Nov 7, 2008)

B-9 said:


> I'm coming in on this a little late, but I examined my Chariot and noticed a slight melting along the rim edges. I had painted them with a light coat of Duplicolor metallic silver back in August of 08. Had the paint been thicker I doubt there would have been any deterioration. Just the same, I'm doing the foil tape wrap thing.


I did mine August 5th, so it hasn't been that long; but so far they look fine with the tape.

I also finished my Chariot last weekend, I'll try and post a couple pictures of it done.


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## B-9 (Jun 8, 2009)

As I was reassembling the Chariot I noticed a slight amount of melting on the sprockets as well. I had hand painted it with some Testor's steel color when it was first built in Aug. '08. Still, the belt ate into it and softened it a bit. Strange. I hope to see someone from Moebius tomorrow at the Chiller Theater Expo, and will ask about it.


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## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

Couldn't Moebius make the wheels of the Chariot of the same plastic as the tracks,or would they be too soft.Or couldn't the same type of plastic be made a little harder using a slightly different formula that would still not react with the tracks and last about as long as the styrene.I assume that the tracks themselves are about as long lasting as the styrene.


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## LIS FAN 4ever (Jan 18, 2009)

Be careful on what paints or glue you use on the interior of the Chariot. Apparently something leaked in mine and fogged the interior windows - not sure how to correct - right now it looks like the air conditioning is on...so be careful with acrylics or the glue - Can be troublesome later.


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