# Question about Epoxy Sculpt.



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

For those of you that have used ES I'd like to ask a few questions. First, does it shrink, if so, a lot, a little? About how much work time does it give you? And how long does it take to cure? Lastly, what kind of shelf life can be expected?

Thanks for your help,
Carl-


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Assuming you're referring to Aves Apoxie Sculpt, no, it does not shrink. In my experience the working time is about 30-60 minutes; longer than that and it begins to harden beyond being easily workable. It fully cures in 24 hours, but I've found it's easiest to sand it (if you need to) after about 7-8 hours. As for shelf life, I'd say about six to nine months; after that it becomes increasingly difficult to mold and sculpt. However, you can extend the shelf life drastically by storing it in your freezer when you're not using it; of course, you have to let it thaw out before using it the next time.


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## Rob P. (Jan 26, 2004)

Although I only used Apoxie Sculpt for the first time on my Werewolf model, I can attest to what Zombie 61 says for workability. I would only add that it is very easy to smooth out with a little water and your finger. 

Rob


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Zombie and Rob, that's good info and pretty much what I'd hope for in the end. The freezer trick sounds like the way to go.

My need would be more (hopefully) for making accessories in a broad range of needs. As for as seam/gap filling it sounds like a very useful tool!

Thanks guys,
Carl-


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I've had the A and B tubs of Apoxie Sculpt on my work bench for two years and it works fine. Perhaps its gotten a little harder over the years but it is still quite usable. I find Apoxie Sculpt to be really good stuff. You can adjust the curing time too by varying the amount of hardener. It comes with good instructions.

If I am doing something with Apoxie Sculpt that requires me to go back into it and work it some or finish it before it cures, I apply it in the morning so I can go back and check on it every little bit. If its just something that I need to cure up solid as-is, I apply it in the evening and by the next morning it is pretty much fully cured (for practical purposes)


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

hal,

My experience with Aves Apoxie Sculpt has been like every else's; in a word, I love this stuff! I will add:


Aves' "Safety Solvent" is far superior to water as a lubricating agent. With water, I've found that there's a sweet spot where it lubricates sufficiently - but too little water doesn't allow me to smooth the putty, while too much water causes the Apoxie Sculpt to break down and become less adhesive. That's much less of a problem with Safety Solvent.
From time to time, you WILL mix up too much putty for your current needs - what to do with the waste material? I try to keep another project handy to which to apply the excess putty, filling the legs of a vinyl figure, building up the hollow back of a vertical base element (as in most Aurora figure kits with scenic bases), etc. It depends on your needs; "Crazy" Joe Nedjberger, a master dinosaur modeler, makes dino teeth out of leftover Apoxy Sculpt becasue the kit teeth don't always get fully cast.
Availability is not an issue. If your local retailer or vendors at model shows don't carry Aves products, you can order directly from the manufacturer online.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I don't know how old mine was at the time, but the smoother of the two elements started leaking an amber scum. I took that as the "time to reorder!" notice.


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

And Aves will be back at WonderFest this year!!!!


Rob
Iwata Padawan


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Looks like I've heard just what I wanted! I knew people have praised it so I pretty much knew it was good stuff, just didn't know these particulars.

Now, I just need to buy some and get crackin'! (Or spreadin'?)

Thanks to all,
Carl-


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Looks like I've heard just what I wanted! I knew people have praised it so I pretty much knew it was good stuff, just didn't know these particulars.

Now, I just need to buy some and get crackin'! (Or spreadin'?)

Thanks to all,
Carl-


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## Paper Hollywood (Nov 2, 2011)

I haven't actually used any Aves Apoxy Sculpt, but I did buy some once. I left it on the shelf for year or two and when I finally went to use it at least one tub had hardened such that I had to throw it out. My advice is to only buy as much as you think you'll need in the near future.


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

Bought the 2-lb kit about 3 years ago and mine is still workable.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

veedubb67 said:


> And Aves will be back at WonderFest this year!!!!


Great! I need to pick up another 55 gallon drum of Safety Solvent.


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Mark McGovern said:


> Great! I need to pick up another 55 gallon drum of Safety Solvent.


So does the *Safety Solvent *help keep the epoxy workable for extended times or is it just to help soften it up for spreading? I suppose it also keeps it from sticking to the fingers?

Carl-


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

hal9001 said:


> ...As for as seam/gap filling it sounds like a very useful tool!


It is, especially if you need to re-sculpt surface detail around/on the seam. BUT...if you need to sand it, it's best to do that before it cures fully. Apoxie sculpt is great stuff, but once it cures fully it's much harder than the styrene or resin most model kits are made from, so that can make it difficult to obtain invisible seams because the sandpaper will remove more of the styrene/resin than putty.



Mark McGovern said:


> ...From time to time, you WILL mix up too much putty for your current needs...


From time to time? That happens every time I use Apoxie Sculpt; apparently I suck at guesstimating the amount I actually need. :lol:



hal9001 said:


> So does the *Safety Solvent *help keep the epoxy workable for extended times or is it just to help soften it up for spreading? I suppose it also keeps it from sticking to the fingers?


The Safety Solvent was designed for cleaning Apoxie Sculpt residue from whichever sculpting tools you use. It just so happens that it is also useful for smoothing the surface of the putty after you're done sculpting or molding it into the shape you want. I've found tap water works just as well (at least it has on the projects I've used Apoxie Sculpt on), but regardless of whether you use Safety Solvent or tap water there's one thing to keep in mind--_a little goes a long way_. Too much solvent or water, and your putty will turn into a useless diluted gooey mess.

As for the putty sticking to your fingers and/or sculpting tools, there's a little trick to avoiding that. After you've thoroughly mixed parts A and B, put it aside and leave it alone for 5-10 minutes. That gives it _just_ enough time to begin curing but still be soft enough to work for 30-60 minutes without the stickiness. You can also dampen your fingers and/or tools with tap water to keep it from sticking to them but, again, a little goes a long way, so proceed with caution.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

hal9001 said:


> So does the *Safety Solvent *help keep the epoxy workable for extended times or is it just to help soften it up for spreading? I suppose it also keeps it from sticking to the fingers?


Zombie's points are valid, but I do use Safety Solvent to lubricate my fingers and tools when I'm working with Apoxie Sculpt. Sometimes it behaves like decals, sticking to me better than the place where I want it to stick. But once the A and B parts have been mixed, nothing will extend the working time that I know of.

Hence, unlike Zombie and I, you're wise to mix *less* than you think you need for a given application - you can always add more putty if need be, but you can't unmix it.


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## Rob P. (Jan 26, 2004)

I've been making stones out of my left over extra. Should eventually have enough for something cool!

Rob


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## Bruce Bishop (Jan 17, 1999)

I have two tubs still useable after being in my fridge for over 10 years now. It does dry out, but I add a bit of water and let it sit a bit then knead the stuff I want to use until the water is mixed in well. At that point it's as good as new, in my case at least.

I usually need very small amounts mixed for filling seams, and I have only used water, but as mentioned you can't add too much water to the mix. It goes on smoothly using my finger and I can usually have it all ready for fine sanding with wet/dry sandpaper after it dries.


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## TAY666 (Jan 8, 2000)

Mark McGovern said:


> But once the A and B parts have been mixed, nothing will extend the working time that I know of.
> 
> Hence, unlike Zombie and I, you're wise to mix *less* than you think you need for a given application - you can always add more putty if need be, but you can't unmix it.


I do find that the solvent will keep it workable a bit longer.
The way I work, is I usually mix up whatever amount of it. Roll it out a bit, then tear off a piece and put it into place. Work it in, blend it, maybe texture a bit, etc. then grab another piece of my mixed up roll and do the same.
Sometimes, before I get it all in place my roll of it will stiffen and start to set.
If you add a drop of the solvent to the mixed putty, and roll it around in your hands for a bit.
The combination of the solvent and heat created by the friction will soften it up and keep it workable for a bit longer. Long enough to get the rest of it in place. Or if I know I won't be able to get it on my current project the way I want to, I will add it to an ongoing project that requires a lot of putty. To kind of bulk out a really deep area. (currently mine is an Aurora mammoth. Areas like this

eat up lots of putty. So they are perfect for using up extra putty.
If I don't have a project like that around, I just form the extra into rocks, or small bricks.
I've got a pill bottle full of those that come in handy for detailing bases.


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## gvaughn1 (Feb 19, 2014)

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I have two options on my desk for filling seams. I have a box of Extra Fine Milliput as well as Aves Apoxie Sculpt.

So far I've only used the Milliput.

Would you advise that I try the Aves? I haven't even opened the containers yet and I've never used the stuff. How does it compare to Milliput for seams?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

g,

I've only used the fine white Milliput, but I found it much more difficult to use than Aves Apoxie Sculpt. As you know, Milliput is quite stiff when you cut it off the roll, and the two parts must not only be mixed but kneaded in your hands to make it pliable.

Aves Apoxie Sculpt is much softer. To use it, I dig a glob of Part 1 out of the tub with a sculpting tool - mentally guessing that the mass is one half of the total amount I'll need for that particular session - and roll it into a fairly uniform sphere. Then I dig a out chunk of Part 2, adding to or subtracting from the sphere until it looks to be the same diameter as Part 1. Now I squish the two parts together, lubricating my fingers with _just a touch_ of Safety Solvent, until the whole blob is a uniform color. Then I get to work.

I hope you've read the earlier posts on this thread, as there are useful tips on working with Aves there. Nothing against Milliput, but since I started using Aves, I've never gone back. Good luck with your project!


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## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

gvaughn1 said:


> Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I have two options on my desk for filling seams. I have a box of Extra Fine Milliput as well as Aves Apoxie Sculpt.
> 
> So far I've only used the Milliput.
> 
> Would you advise that I try the Aves? I haven't even opened the containers yet and I've never used the stuff. How does it compare to Milliput for seams?


Never used Milliput so can't compare it but imo Aves is great product for seam filling. Mix it and roll out thin strings of it and lay it into the seam. Their Safety Solvent really helps with smoothly feathering it out. Once it sets up it provides a very sand-able surface that is more durable than something like Squadron. I us for most seam work and it helped me to conquer the ghastly seams in the Moebius Dracula cape.


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## gvaughn1 (Feb 19, 2014)

Thanks! I'll give the Aves a try using the advice from this thread.


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## Skymods (Feb 5, 2001)

Once you use the Aves Apoxie Sculpt you'll never go back to the Milliput. It's a fantastic product. There is no need to rush either, you have a good couple hours of work time.

There is a 10 page thread over at Starship Modeler that has tons of useful information and tricks

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=59848&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Dave


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I hated Milliput; I love Aves. SO much easier to use.


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## markcan (Jan 28, 2013)

Zombie thread!

Aves is just about the best thing I've ever used for modeling. Unlike Squadron and some other putties, it doesn't shrink as it dries. If you use it to level a seam, you don't have to come back later and add more. It thins with water, so I usually wet my finger and smooth it out to the point where it needs very little sanding when it dries. Just be sure to blot the excess water off, or you'll have little white spots all over your model.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

markcan said:


> ...Unlike Squadron and some other putties, it doesn't shrink as it dries.


Squadron's like many other fillers, dries in the literal sense. The solvent that makes it workable and "bite" the plastic evaporates into the air, therefore the total volume of putty is reduced and it shrinks as it dries.

Two-part epoxy putties such as Aves cure through a chemical reaction. They may give off waste heat - plumbers' putties are notorious for this - but there's no evaporation, so they don't shrink. But don't throw out your tube of Squadron putty - it's still the best bet for filling small nicks, ejector pin marks, and the like.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

gvaughn1 said:


> How does it compare to Milliput for seams?


I've used a couple of different putties over the years for seams, and whichever one it was I've found that one way to make it easier to get thoroughly down into the seam is by mixing it with some styrene cement into a more liquiddy paste. This doesn't seem to affect its performance as a putty or to make it more difficult to sand or sculpt later.

Alternately, I recently got hold of Aurora's 1961 book, The Complete Book Of Plastic Model Kits, and just about the only useful tip it has is to use some sprue from the same kit, cover with styrene cement the same length of sprue as the length of the seam, and let the glue soften the plastic until its surface becomes a coat of paste. Then you can roll that length of sprue over (not at right angles) the seam to press the glue-paste down into the seam.


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## gvaughn1 (Feb 19, 2014)

Thanks for the tips! I've been using Aves now for my recent build and I love it. I don't see myself going back to milliput any time soon. It seems easier to work with and gives me a longer window to use it.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> ...use some sprue from the same kit, cover with styrene cement the same length of sprue as the length of the seam, and let the glue soften the plastic...


Cro'

I did that to fill the ginormous seam running down the Polar Lights Superman cape. I glued the halves together with tube glue and let that dry overnight. Then I stretched some sprue and adhered it to the seam with plenty of liquid cement (Plastruct Plastic Weld). The sprue was stretched to a thickness slightly larger than the depth of the seam so that, as I softened it with more liquid cement, I could squash it down with a sculpting tool.

Once this had dried good and hard, I shaved whatever sprue was still above the surface of the cape off with a curved #10 hobby knife and sanded the remainder smooth. There were still a few spots that needed tube putty, but this method got the bulk of the job done. And, I think it reinforced what had been a pretty fragile area in the process.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

That sounds ideal, and possibly better than using a putty. I've nearly always preferred creating a paste of cement and spare plastic over using the various putties - it just seems more accurate and easier to get into the seam.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

For long, straight seams like the cape - yes. For filling the gaps between, say, the halves of the Aurora/Polar Lights _Lost in Space_ Robot's arms - not so much.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Aurora/Polar Lights _Lost in Space_ Robot? Let me think; I built that kit in 1998 (I remember buying it from a sci-fi collectors' shop in London that year), and for problems with the arms I would have used a paste of cement and sprue!


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Well, to each their own. I used liquid cement to get a good weld bead and smoothed that - though there were spots that needed tube putty. The worst seams were the upper body halves; I think the stretch sprue trick would be very useful there.


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

In the 90's I build a Velociraptor and used stretched sprue _and_ sprue shavings to fill a horrible gap around the hind legs with LOTS of liquid cement and after it started setting up and still soft I was able to press shapes and skin wrinkles in it and it blended beautifully.

I've used stretched sprue many times to fill gaps! The thing is, it sands just like surrounding plastic better than unlike materials (e.g. putties). How many times have you sanded over putties that sand easier than he surrounding styrene and have to re-putty? And re-putty...

Stretched sprue? Great large gap filler!

Carl-


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

hal9001 said:


> ...How many times have you sanded over putties that sand easier than he surrounding styrene and have to re-putty? And re-putty...


That's one of the things I've found to be problematic about using Aves Apoxie Sculpt on most styrenes and resins--once it's fully cured it's much harder than those base materials, so instead of sanding away the Apoxie I'd end up sanding away the styrene/resin when trying to blend the edges of the Apoxie Sculpt. Of course, once this lesson is learned you figure out pretty quickly to sand the edges before it's fully cured, or use regular model putty to blend those edges (those are the techniques I use, anyway). The latter method usually involves a little more work, but if building models was easy everyone would do it.


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Zombie_61 said:


> That's one of the things I've found to be problematic about using Aves Apoxie Sculpt on most styrenes and resins--once it's fully cured it's much harder than those base materials, so instead of sanding away the Apoxie I'd end up sanding away the styrene/resin when trying to blend the edges of the Apoxie Sculpt. anyway). )


Yes, same problem with using CA also! Just put on what you can sand before putting the model up for the day/night and sand it before totally cured. God help you if you use Zip Kicker! 

Carl-


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