# Chrome Plating Plastic Parts??



## guinnesspeanut

I saw an article on ehow about plating plastic parts, but it's a little vague. I got the idea to search it out when I saw a kit on ebay (PLATING ON PLASTICS/NON CONDUCTORS KIT is exactly how it appears in the title). but it seems like a lot of money for a lantern battery, a few plastic bins, and a hunk of metal.. Supposedly all you need is your plastic piece and some water. Anyways, I doubt it's that simple, so I'm hoping for some guidance.. Every other search over the years has pointed out that the metal plating process has the pieces in an acid bath, so I'm not sure how this water thing works. How long does it take, what conductive paint works best, ect. I think spending a few bucks to get real chrome would be great, but I'd hate to throw money down the drain..


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## rkoenn

I have never tried or considered actually chrome plating plastic model parts. What I have been doing for the last year is stripping the chrome off the parts in the kits I build and then painting them with Alclad. Of course opinions vary on the Alclad chrome appearance but to me, and a significant portion of serious modelers, the Alcald metallic finishes are very realistic. I've always felt the chromed parts in the kit didn't look realistic. Alclad comes in a number of metallic shades and metals and is very realistic, again, in my opinion.


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## djnick66

You might be confusing chrome (vacuum plating) and electro-plating of metals. For model purposes there are/were outfits that would vacuum plate parts for you. They had to be arranged on a sprue of your own design that would fit in the plating chamber. It isn't cheap either.

Metal parts can be electro-plated with an electric current, but I am not familiar with that method outside of general details. I think its mostly used for jewelry.

Nowdays most people use something like Alclad Chrome for model part finishing and refinishing. Or, the old stand by, Bare Metal Chrome Foil


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## guinnesspeanut

Apparently, this plastic metal coating can also be done over wax parts, or just about anything else for that matter.. The plastic car bumper (good example) is painted with an electric conducting paint before it's immersed in the water.. basically turning the plastic into 'metal', as far as the process is concerned. I've looked into a few of these paints, and they are all pretty thick. Thinning them reduces their effectiveness. How much, I don't know. That's why I've posted this, hoping somebody here has actually tried it. The more I thought about the thick paint, the more I thought about other ways to 'trick' the process. I think I may have another solution.. But again, I could use some help. Another way to 'chrome' plastic is with super fine metal powder, suck as aluminum powder. Using a thin liquid glue, such as testors, you dip the bumper into the glue to coat it, and shake off as much as you can, then coat it with the aluminum powder. After it's dry, you carefully burnish it until it shines, and believe it or not, the results are fantastic. But the more intricate the bumper, the longer it'd take to burnish it. I saw the results on a set of S scale passenger cars, and it looked like a factory chroming process, simply stunning. The guy told me he put a coat of wax over it to give it a deeper feeling, and to stop it from tarnishing. This may not be the right forum to inquire about this. I've read that plastic chroming/plating is also done with jewelery, so if anyone out there knows a good jewelery forum, please share, and I'll bring the info here..


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## djnick66

As usual when these sort of esoteric or pointed questions comes up it might be useful for you to tell us what you actually want to do. If it is for model purposes like chrome on a car, you are probably better off with something like Alclad that gives a more realistic "scale" finish. Real chrome looks great on the bumper of a real 59 Buick but looks like crap on a 1/24 model; making it look cheap and toylike.


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## guinnesspeanut

I agree completely, real chrome does look wrong on a model car, the finish is too deep.. but, when you plate these plastic parts, it's not real chrome.. Your choices are nickle, silver, or stainless steel, and the plated coating is microns thick, a heck of a lot thinner than any mirror film, or even silverleaf. If you have an old silver coin, or an older nickle, put it in a vice and buff it with a soft cloth strip. Then spray it with a coat or 2 of clear coat. That's what plating will look like. I've learned a bit more about this. Keep reading if interested..
You start with a copper based, thin paint on your plastic part. This goes into a special solution, hooked up to a battery or rectifyer. If the temperature, amps, and voltage are correct, in a few hours it'll look like your piece is made of copper. Remove it, rinse it, and submerge it into another bath of solution, this time specifically made for nickle. Adjust the amps, volts, and temperature, and in a few hours, your part is miraculously transformed into "pre-chrome". After you put a coat or 2 of clear on it, it'll be the most realistic "chrome" you've ever seen on a model. This stuff isn't cheap, the paint runs $18 an ounce, add another $18 for the copper solution, and another $20 for the nickle solution, then you need a bit more.. 2 annodes, one copper and one nickle. The metal needs to come from somewhere. These 2 will run you $10-$20 more.. BUT, and it's a big BUT, you'll be set up to do a lot of "chrome" parts. It's not easy getting exact answers from anyone, but if I have to guess, the 2 solutions will last you years, no matter how often you use them, and the 2 annodes will probably cover at least 8 ounces of painted plastics. If you're "chroming" the whole model, I don't think you'll get too far, but if it's just what's normally chromed on a car, you'll be set for a LOT of models.. If you've ever seen the stacks of drugstore $2.99 jewelry that isn't silver but looks silver, that's basically what your "chrome" will look like usng this plating technique. I think there's a rule about including links to other forums. I just joined another group to get more info on this stuff. Anyone interested, please email me and I'll try to keep you in the loop. Hopefully, eventually, I'll be able to post a guide..


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## djnick66

Yeah electroplating...

http://www.finishing.com/207/05.shtml

sounds nasty "_it is a very expensive process, and it uses toxic and carcinogenic chemicals that are completely out of place in a home._ "


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## rhinooctopus

*Chrome Plating*

Here's the $64 question...

I have a (vinyl) Horizon Terminator Endoskeleton. I'd like to chrome plate it (you know, the shiney look). Has anybody done this to a vinyl kit and had (real) success?

Thanks!
Phil K


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## GordonMitchell

Back in the 90's Comet Miniatures were selling the Horizon T2 chrome plated if I remember correctly it faded with time and had to be stripped,most customers of mine didn't want it that way and I agreed it was cheap looking not at all like the effect in the movie,if Alclad was available then I would have suggested that,

Gordon:wave:


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## djnick66

I doubt chrome will work on vinyl as its too soft. it would just flake off. The Horizon kit is super saggy.


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## nicamarvin

rhinooctopus said:


> Here's the $64 question...
> 
> I have a (vinyl) Horizon Terminator Endoskeleton. I'd like to chrome plate it (you know, the shiney look). Has anybody done this to a vinyl kit and had (real) success?
> 
> Thanks!
> Phil K


Chrome Plating on such vinyl piece would be almost impossible....But you can reproduce a finish just as reflective as real chrome plating


its called Spray On Chrome(Spray on Silver) and I have built a small DIY Kit using off the shelf products.

here is Video of me doing a Dirt Bike Headlight cover..

youtube.com/watch?v=-PKJsZX1Lt4


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## djnick66

if its a solvent based paint (ie enamel etc) then it doesnt work or work well on vinyl


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## nicamarvin

djnick66 said:


> if its a solvent based paint (ie enamel etc) then it doesnt work or work well on vinyl


you can use a water based Sealer...:thumbsup:


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## djnick66

To some extent. I still have had problems with painting vinyl with solvent paints over an acrylic sealer. Just something for people to be aware of.


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## NTxSlotCars

I want to rechrome some action figures. Namely, some Cylons I have with the chrome worn off.
I found this interesting link...

http://www.thehogring.com/2012/10/16/6-ways-to-transform-plastic-into-chrome/

And a step by step...

http://www.7litre.org/plasticchrome.html


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## btbrush

Use a lacquer based primer (contains acetone) on vinyl and then spray anything you want. I use lacquer primer on everything, then I never have to worry about what's underneath.


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## finaprint

Krylon makes some sort of a specific 'chrome' silver can spraypaint that is not normal silver paint, it stratifies on the part if shaken up thoroughly to dry very reflective and imitates chrome plating I'd say with maybe 70% shininess. I use it inside car and motorcycle taillight and headlight housings as well as instrument packages to improve reflection greatly for more light output as it is way above normal silver paint. It's also very finicky about shaking the can to keep it well mixed while shooting it. Part #1010 'Original Chrome' finish.

Rustoleum #7718 'Metallizer Bright Coat' does the same.

Pretty sure both of those will tarnish over time so protection from moisture might be in order. 

Action figures? Commonly the oily base plastics used on them lend their own special paint issues as the petrochemical VOCs oozing out of the plastic over time gives paint adhesion fits. I've always wondered what they used in the paints they put on those, some of them are atomic warfare level indestructible.


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## Six Cruvers

finaprint said:


> Krylon makes some sort of a specific 'chrome' silver can spraypaint that is not normal silver paint, it stratifies on the part if shaken up thoroughly to dry very reflective and imitates chrome plating I'd say with maybe 70% shininess. I use it inside car and motorcycle taillight and headlight housings as well as instrument packages to improve reflection greatly for more light output as it is way above normal silver paint. It's also very finicky about shaking the can to keep it well mixed while shooting it. Part #1010 'Original Chrome' finish.
> 
> Rustoleum #7718 'Metallizer Bright Coat' does the same.
> 
> Pretty sure both of those will tarnish over time so protection from moisture might be in order.
> 
> Action figures? Commonly the oily base plastics used on them lend their own special paint issues as the petrochemical VOCs oozing out of the plastic over time gives paint adhesion fits. I've always wondered what they used in the paints they put on those, some of them are atomic warfare level indestructible.


REPLY:

All that stuff you're referencing is simply called PAINT! It is not chrome, never will look like chrome, and only crooked, lying paint companies - including the ones you listed - will use chrome-plated lids on their cans of PAINT to trick you into thinking you're getting CHROME that can be sprayed onto anything. There is NO SUCH THING as "chrome paint". Never had been and isn't to this day.

Until a few years ago, there were some innovative suppliers that did marvelous rechroming work on plastic and die-cast model car bumpers and related parts, using the original vacuum deposition method the factories used. Robert Shibelski, of Madison, Wisconsin, operated Chrome-Tech. His pricing, his work and his turn-around time were superb. He got tired of doing it about three years ago, and promised his better customers he would do them ''a few favors'' after he retired, but nobody's heard from him since.

Don Holthause of Decatur, Illinois, under the name ModelHaus, supplied outstanding reproduction 1/25-scale resin car and truck parts, including just about everything that was ever done in chrome by the 25th mfrs. His quality was excellent, but his prices and irritation with hobbyists kept ramping up into the stratosphere. He, too, became overwhelmed and announced he was shutting down at the end of 2016, and would not accept new orders after that time. That turned out to be the Big Lie: he went dark at the end of June, 2015, leaving hundreds of his best customers spinning in the wind.

I recently purchased what is commonly accepted as "The Holy Grail" of Ford Thunderbird promotional models, the 1956 Tamarack Green. Fewer than a dozen of these are known to exist in private collections today. Both bumpers need rechroming, but this juvenile spray can rubbish isn't going to cut it for my standards. I need the real deal, vacuum deposition, same as the AMT factory used in 1956.

Which is what brought me here... to see if there have been any recent developments in this sorely-needed field.


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## Six Cruvers

djnick66 said:


> if its a solvent based paint (ie enamel etc) then it doesn't work or work well on vinyl


REPLY:
Only paint made specifically for vinyl surfaces will adhere to vinyl. That includes vinyl model car tires, or whatever you're trying to force it on! Vinyl paint will state clearly that it is made for use on vinyl. Vinyl sprays can be used on many other surfaces, however.


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## Milton Fox Racing

Welcome to the boards @Six Cruvers

Nothing new has been developed - that anyone is sharing.

I am not able to mention a specific name but there is one retired chromer out there who is still servicing a few former customers.

I havent looked at any of the new you tube videos recently, but the processes noted above and the work arounds mentioned - used to all be there in their how to videos.

The only product not mentioned in this thread so far is the Molotow brand. This may not be up to your standards either but may be worth the investment and time to see how it works in your experience.

The burnishing process does sound interesting though. Has anyone done this?


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## Six Cruvers

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Welcome to the boards @Six Cruvers
> 
> Nothing new has been developed - that anyone is sharing.
> 
> I am not able to mention a specific name but there is one retired chromer out there who is still servicing a few former customers.
> 
> I havent looked at any of the new you tube videos recently, but the processes noted above and the work arounds mentioned - used to all be there in their how to videos.
> 
> The only product not mentioned in this thread so far is the Molotow brand. This may not be up to your standards either but may be worth the investment and time to see how it works in your experience.
> 
> The burnishing process does sound interesting though. Has anyone done this?


REPLY:

I'm not familiar at all with any of these. They only thing I've fooled with recently is the chrome fingernail polish, which turned out to be an expensive mess. It looked nice on some fake fingernails, but not on a 1958 Chrysler grill, which it virtually ate for lunch. In fact, the nice lady in the fingernail shop was so sympathetic, she refunded me all of the $20+ I spent on the project, bless her sweet heart.

Baremetal Foil may be a good alternative if one has the time and patience. I have way too many projects that could never justify the time and expense. 

I take it you don't like this guy whose name you don't wish to disclose. (I can only think of one, and he's never been on my Valentine's list, either.) This is a small community, which keeps getting smaller each day. Can't say I blame you. Fortunately, time has taken a lot of the bad apples away.

Never heard of Molotow. Can you describe it? How effective is it?


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## Alien

Molotow is pretty good. It comes in Markers, but you can also buy a 30ml Marker refill that can be easily airbrushed.
I would grab a Marker and see what you think of the product. Molotow seems to be available in art supply stores. (At least in this part of the world.)
I have not tried airbrushing the chrome, but the Markers are really great for small parts without the hassle of using and cleaning an airbrush.

However, I do agree with other posts about Alclad Chrome. It is excellent if you follow the instructions. ie. Black gloss base coat and clear coat over the top of the chrome.
I did not use a clear coat once, and my chrome started to rust (Technically just corrode.) after a couple of years. I had to mask and respray my model and then use Alclads Aqua Gloss Clear to seal it.. I learnt my lesson and now everything still looks great years later.
The model in question also has some traditional vacuum plated chrome parts but the Alclad sprayed parts look more realistic to my eye.


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## Milton Fox Racing

Six Cruvers said:


> REPLY:
> 
> I'm not familiar at all with any of these. They only thing I've fooled with recently is the chrome fingernail polish, which turned out to be an expensive mess. It looked nice on some fake fingernails, but not on a 1958 Chrysler grill, which it virtually ate for lunch. In fact, the nice lady in the fingernail shop was so sympathetic, she refunded me all of the $20+ I spent on the project, bless her sweet heart.
> 
> Baremetal Foil may be a good alternative if one has the time and patience. I have way too many projects that could never justify the time and expense.
> 
> I take it you don't like this guy whose name you don't wish to disclose. (I can only think of one, and he's never been on my Valentine's list, either.) This is a small community, which keeps getting smaller each day. Can't say I blame you. Fortunately, time has taken a lot of the bad apples away.
> 
> Never heard of Molotow. Can you describe it? How effective is it?



I was late to the party in being able to get any parts plated by the above guys but know a few of the guys who are still able to get parts plated. So I dont have a feeling against either of them. I do know one of them felt like they couldnt ever complete the orders the already had and decided to not accept new orders (people.)


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## Six Cruvers

Milton Fox Racing said:


> I was late to the party in being able to get any parts plated by the above guys but know a few of the guys who are still able to get parts plated. So I dont have a feeling against either of them. I do know one of them felt like they couldnt ever complete the orders the already had and decided to not accept new orders (people.)


REPLY:

As long as there's no hostility, it's too bad you couldn't help out a fellow hobbyist and pass their names along...


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## Milton Fox Racing

Didnt you already list them by first name last name city state and business name? I'm just not mentioning which one of them it is I know about.


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## Ross Bailey

YouTube paint guru Barbatos Rex looks to have had amazing results with Green Stuff World chrome:


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## Alien

That GSW Chrome looks great. I have found a local source of it and it is even cheaper than Alclad. I am keen to give it a go. Thanks for the tip.


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## Ross Bailey

Alien said:


> That GSW Chrome looks great. I have found a local source of it and it is even cheaper than Alclad. I am keen to give it a go. Thanks for the tip.


I hope you can give us a review once you've had a chance to use it. Plastic spoons are one thing, It'd be great to see how GSW chrome looks on actual model parts. Hope you have good results with it Alien!


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## Alien

Will do Ross,
I have to get it from a local on-line retailer so I will wait untill I need some other things too.
(I am part Scottish so I want to get value for money on the postage cost.)
But it is definitely on my list.


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## ExLunaScientia

Six Cruvers said:


> REPLY:
> 
> All that stuff you're referencing is simply called PAINT! It is not chrome, never will look like chrome, and only crooked, lying paint companies - including the ones you listed - will use chrome-plated lids on their cans of PAINT to trick you into thinking you're getting CHROME that can be sprayed onto anything. There is NO SUCH THING as "chrome paint". Never had been and isn't to this day.
> 
> Until a few years ago, there were some innovative suppliers that did marvelous rechroming work on plastic and die-cast model car bumpers and related parts, using the original vacuum deposition method the factories used. Robert Shibelski, of Madison, Wisconsin, operated Chrome-Tech. His pricing, his work and his turn-around time were superb. He got tired of doing it about three years ago, and promised his better customers he would do them ''a few favors'' after he retired, but nobody's heard from him since.
> 
> Don Holthause of Decatur, Illinois, under the name ModelHaus, supplied outstanding reproduction 1/25-scale resin car and truck parts, including just about everything that was ever done in chrome by the 25th mfrs. His quality was excellent, but his prices and irritation with hobbyists kept ramping up into the stratosphere. He, too, became overwhelmed and announced he was shutting down at the end of 2016, and would not accept new orders after that time. That turned out to be the Big Lie: he went dark at the end of June, 2015, leaving hundreds of his best customers spinning in the wind.
> 
> I recently purchased what is commonly accepted as "The Holy Grail" of Ford Thunderbird promotional models, the 1956 Tamarack Green. Fewer than a dozen of these are known to exist in private collections today. Both bumpers need rechroming, but this juvenile spray can rubbish isn't going to cut it for my standards. I need the real deal, vacuum deposition, same as the AMT factory used in 1956.
> 
> Which is what brought me here... to see if there have been any recent developments in this sorely-needed field.


He never said they were chrome. He sais they _imitated_ chrome with an acceptable appearance. Chrome looks horrid on 1/25 and 1/24 scale cars. Not to-scale at all. That's why we dunk chromed parts in Purple Power to strip the chrome off and finish them to-scale with shiny paints.


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## dymaxion2

I did see another new product from ?? Sold only in Aerosol Cans . It was reviewed somewhere depcting a finished body . A "Chrome NASCAR being Decaled . 7 Minutes drying Time . Does tolerate hadndlijg as does Actual Vacuum Plating . Anyone else see this ? If I find it again . I will share .. God Bless


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## Milton Fox Racing

There are several chrome finish paints out there now. I havent used any of them though. 🤙


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