# Making a Jig for Slot Routing



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

When routing a track, once the first slot is cut (by whatever method you use), you can then use that slot as a guide to make all the subsequent slots. In order to do that, you need to make a jig.

I have experimented with a small simple oval. I made my first slot then created a jig with two small, cutoff nails that would ride in the previous slot and guide my router in making the next slot. For the most part, it worked.

I discovered that the first pin/nail in the jig must be even with the router bit. By this I mean if the slots are to be 2" apart, on my jig I draw a straight line 2" from the center of the router bit. I then put the first pin/nail on that line exactly 2" away from the bit. The second pin/nail must also go on this line, but it will be a little further away from the bit. It needs to be close to the first pin/nail; the further they are apart, the more squeezed the lanes will become in the turns; plus the pins will jam in the slot more frequently as the distance between them increases. Both pins will ride in the previous slot, with the second pin (the one further from the bit) trailing behind the cut.

This is all well and good. However, the one problem I seem to be having is the pins will jam slightly in the slot. This doesn't seem to cause a real problem, but does cause me to wiggle the router slightly until they free up.

My question is, am I doing anything wrong or will the jig pins jam every so often.

Thanks...Joe


----------



## Slotmanmoss (Apr 17, 2008)

*Jigs*

Joe

Check out this link on Old Weird Herald, also check out the photo page for picture of his jigs.

http://www.oldweirdherald.com/frames.html

Alan


----------



## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Here's the direct link I think Alan is refering to:

http://www.oldweirdherald.com/techtips/J&L_Raceway/J&L_Raceway1.html

Good article but it doesn't go into details on the pin jig. The "outer gutter" width is a direct result of the roller spacing on the first jig...but the lane spacing is even when cut with the pin jig. It's all in the pin geometry.


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Thanks guys. I have read that article over many times and it is very informative.

But the real question I am trying to get answered is about actually using and setting up the pin jig. Do the pins occasionally get jammed/cocked in the slot or am I doing something wrong in setting up the jig? How do you position the pins relative to the router bit? How far apart are they spaced? I can already see via trial and error that the farther apart the pins are, the more likely they are to get hung up in the slot.

Thanks...Joe


----------



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

hi grandcheapskate take a look at the 1 i made page 7 out with the old in with new.i posted a pic of the routerbase. and i just went down to the basement to look at the jig so i can help a lil bit. from the router bit i went halfinch foward and half aft.double check that the guidepin routed slot is clean/ a good router speed/good constant pressure and the router is going the correct way.and yes sometime it will feel or get jammed.what method are u using? i used a strip of lexan with some brads every inch or so then bump router into the fence.thsi worked fine for me.randy at hilltop talked me through the jig fadrication. post a pic i wanna see!


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

joegri said:


> take a look at the 1 i made page 7 ...what method are u using?


I'd like to see the jig you made, but page 7 of what?

To make the oval, I simply used an oval template in the center of the board and routed the first slot. I then used the pin jig to rout lanes 2 and 3. This was a quick and dirty trial run, so nothing is perfect. I just want to get the method down before going onto anything else. Plus I want to try copper tape, magnetic braid and non-magnetic braid on each of the three lanes.

My main concern is making sure I make the pin jig correctly. I don't want it hanging up in the slot and ruining any subsequent slot.

Thanks...Joe


----------



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

sorry my bad .the pic is in trackbuilding secsion under out with the old in with the new. also so as i read if you,re gonna use braid it will be different type of jig.from what i,ve read with braid you may be able to rout pin slot and braid recess wiyh 1 pass if you used the correct bit which you can buy. last spring when i was thinking of my first track i saw these guys from the UK where routing a track for braid . found it on google. my jig is for rail and pinch wire style application.


----------



## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

The special bit for routing the braid channels does not also cut the slot. At least, not the one I saw. You need to rout the slot(s) and then use a special bit. This bit has a smooth shaft which rides in the slot and the cutting part of the bit will cut a shallow channel on each side of the slot at one time.

I'm thinking that I won't need a special bit. After the slot is cut, you can change to a larger bit and using the same guide as you used for the slot, go around again this time cutting a larger, yet much more shallow, slot on both sides of the guide pin slot. How deep you go depends on how much of the braid you want above the surface.

Joe


----------

