# Just purchased Iwata NEO airbrush



## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

This appears to be a very nice airbrush, however, there isn't much info in the manual that comes with it. I'm guessing the adjustment on the rear controls how far back the trigger can be pulled, which in turn controls the amount of paint flow, but what does adjusting the needle cap and/or nozzle cap do? Anything? Also, is there anything that allows for adjusting the how wide or narrow the spray pattern is, other than the distance the airbrush is from the surface being painted? Also, is there a general rule of thumb for how much pressure to use for each type of paint. For example, what's a good pressure to start at for using an enamel, or acrylic, or a lacquer, or a metalizer?


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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

If you have never used an airbrush before you may have wanted to start with a single action brush such as a Badger or Paashe. Easier to learn and get a feel for airbrushing and can experiment with mixtures and pressures. Also much easier to clean. Granted you can't get real small details but much easier and better looking than rattle cans or brushes. Your best way to learn is to get scraps or old models and practice, practice, practice. What works for one person may not work for you. Good luck!


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## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

I have airbrushed before, but I was using a cheapo Aztec with the propellant cans...I've never used a REAL airbrush before with a compressor...I'll get the hang of it through practicing...


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## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

So far I'm not having good results using this air brush. I seem to be having a hard time getting the paint to come out. I don't think it's a pressure issue with the compressor as I've had it set as high as 20 psi...it just seems like if I turn it up any higher it's gonna be blowing the paint around on the painting surface if/when it does come out. Adjusting the trigger stop doesn't seem to help much either. Should I be thinning the paint? The guy at the hobby shop said most paints are air brush ready without thinning. The instructions that came with the air brush offers no help, and neither does their website. I'm kinda at a loss here...


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Guy at the hobby shop is full of BS

Most model paints CAN BE AIRBRUSHED

Most paints NEED TO BE THINNED and thinned a lot. For example, I think Tamiya paints up to 50 percent thinner to paint, although usually 25/75 thinner to paint is most useful.

Even brands like Vallejo Model Air, which are made for airbrushing, may need to be thinned. I find the Model Air acrylic primers to be quite thick, for example.

Normal spray pressure should be around 15-18 psi.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Like djnick said, most paints need to be thinned for airbrushing with the exception of metallic lacquers like Alclad and Model Master metalizers which are only meant for use in an airbrush hence they are thinned for use straight from the bottle. They are so thin in fact that they are not suitable for handbrushing. A good rule of thumb for enamels is to thin to the consistency of skim milk. Keep your air pressure at about 15-20 psi and don't get closer than about 6 inches to your piece with the airbrush tip either. Although I don't airbrush acrylics much I would imagine the same generally holds true for them although you may run into more clogging issues with acrylics if you are not used to using them.


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## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

Thanks for the inputs...I'm confident now the reason I'm having trouble is because I haven't been thinning the paint...I will do so and see how that works...


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## 2long (Oct 19, 2015)

I have that same airbrush and have had no problem spraying paints down to 8-10 psi. Most of the Testors paints will not spray very good at all with 50/50. I usually put one of those bottles and three thinners into a one ounce dropper bottle. The Model Master paints from Testors that are airbrush ready spray pretty nice right out of the bottle.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

At one point I was advised to try thinning Tamiya acrylics 50 paint + 25 water + 25 thinner. YMMV.


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## spiralcity (Mar 17, 2016)

scooke123 said:


> Granted you can't get real small details but much easier and better looking than rattle cans or brushes. Your best way to learn is to get scraps or old models and practice, practice, practice. What works for one person may not work for you. Good luck!


That depends on how the gun is setup. If you have .3mm or smaller needle and tip, you can get some very nice lines, even on a single action gun. The single action has nothing to do with how fine you can go, unless the brush wont allow a thin needle and tip. The Badger 200 should have a .5mm tip and give you rather good results.

Dons Airbrush

http://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/badger-200nh


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## spiralcity (Mar 17, 2016)

SteveR said:


> At one point I was advised to try thinning Tamiya acrylics 50 paint + 25 water + 25 thinner. YMMV.


I was reading an old modeling book from Shepard Paine, he suggested using common car wipoer fluid to cut acylics. I have been using the stuff with great results for years now.

You could also buy the Tamiya thinner and put all the guess work to the side.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Most airbrush brands offer the same basic model in both single and double action. The quality of the line is identical. For example the Badger single action Model 200 uses the same tips and needles as the double action 100 and 150 models. So they spray absolutely the same. The only real difference is that with single action you have to stop spraying and manually adjust the needle for a wider or narrower line. 

Tamiya acrylics are still solvent based and water is not the best thinner for them. They are best thinned with either Tamiya Thinner (good but expensive), Isopropyl Alcohol (Tamiya Thinner is mostly Iso Alcohol with a wetting agent and fragrance added, as per an analysis of its contents found on another site), or lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner works as a universal solvent for a lot of paints, including Tamiya's solvent based acrylics. It makes the paint flow very well, dry quickly, and can be purchased in large quantities versus the tiny jars of Tamiya thinner.

I've heard of the windshield washer fluid thinner trick. Some of that has ammonia in it, which can be hard on airbrush chrome. I personally don't use it. Not so much becaue of the ammonia I just don't see any need to when alcohol or lacquer thinner work fine.


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## spiralcity (Mar 17, 2016)

djnick66 said:


> Most airbrush brands offer the same basic model in both single and double action. The quality of the line is identical. For example the Badger single action Model 200 uses the same tips and needles as the double action 100 and 150 models. So they spray absolutely the same. The only real difference is that with single action you have to stop spraying and manually adjust the needle for a wider or narrower line.
> 
> Tamiya acrylics are still solvent based and water is not the best thinner for them. They are best thinned with either Tamiya Thinner (good but expensive), Isopropyl Alcohol (Tamiya Thinner is mostly Iso Alcohol with a wetting agent and fragrance added, as per an analysis of its contents found on another site), or lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner works as a universal solvent for a lot of paints, including Tamiya's solvent based acrylics. It makes the paint flow very well, dry quickly, and can be purchased in large quantities versus the tiny jars of Tamiya thinner.
> 
> I've heard of the windshield washer fluid thinner trick. Some of that has ammonia in it, which can be hard on airbrush chrome. I personally don't use it. Not so much becaue of the ammonia I just don't see any need to when alcohol or lacquer thinner work fine.


I have never had an issue with the window fluid cleaner, I have 3 airbrushes that are over 25 years old and have had years of the cleaner going through them. I'm not sure who told you it harms a airbrush, but I would have to say from experience that is false. Alcohol can be a problem as thinner for the fact that it can cause paint to hit your surface too dry and give you a pebbling affect. I had this issue with the 91% alcohol, you can cut it to help the problem or go with the 70%, but why bother? I can buy an entire gallon of window cleaner for the cost of 16 oz. bottle of alcohol, and I don't have to cut the window cleaner, so it does have it's advantages.

The Talon in the photo has used nothing but window fluid, the badger 175 has been using the stuff for 20 plus years. No issues.


All 3 of these guns have been running window cleaner for over 20 years. My Badger Krome which is not pictured has also been shooting window cleaner.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

A couple of the name brand airbrushes say specifically NOT to use Windex or ammonia based solvents in the brushes. I believe Iwata does and Grex does.


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## spiralcity (Mar 17, 2016)

djnick66 said:


> A couple of the name brand airbrushes say specifically NOT to use Windex or ammonia based solvents in the brushes. I believe Iwata does and Grex does.


They can say it all they want, but in practice it's false. Unless your telling me I have magic airbrushes? 

I would guess Shep Paine also had magic airbrushes?

I am talking from years of experience using the stuff, and all my guns are perfect. I plan on shooting the cleaners through my SATA as soon as it arrives. and I would imagine it will remain problem free also, unless the Teflon seals are made different, which we all know they are not.

All of my guns are built for the most part in the same way. You will find that all airbrushes in the 100.00 to 200.00 range share the same characteristics no matter who manufactured them. Badger has never warned me against ammonia based solvents and they honor their warranty never asking you what solvents were used in the gun. The worst you could have is a faulty seal from any solvent, and that's not a major issue, especially when you deal with a company who backs you 100% on labor, if you cant do the work yourself.

If you don't want to use the stuff, then don't use it, but I know for a fact that it's fine.

My line up, with 2 new guns on the way.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Whatever. I am just going by what the companies that make the airbrushes say NOT to do. But, feel free to do what you want. I've been using airbrushes for 40 something years and have not found any real need to use windex or windshield washer fluid anyway. 

If you do a search on Hyperscale you will find where someone had issues with the ammonia reacting to the base metal in the plated Grex color cups, causing the chrome to pit.

If you want a really nice brush, get a Grex Tritium. Probably the best brush out there.


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