# NCC-1864 Reliant Project



## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

I'm at it again, I got this AMT/Ertl kit in the mail a couple of weeks ago, I've ordered decals from the Federation Models web site and now I'm off on a building nightmare. I've started a web site for the project it's
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
So to get it up to speed I've filed off the shingle like areas along the outer edge of the saucer and hull (these will be replaced with .010 x .040 strip styrene later on during the painting phase). The depressions left by the cast windows and a few lines need to be filled in and sanded. Right now I'm assembling one of the warp engine nacelles and after I've made some repairs there I'll start painting and figuring out the AZtec pattern for it. Last this kit will not be painted to look like the movie version, I want to keep my fleet looking alike so the Reliant will be painted with Dark Ghost Gray followed with Light Ghost Gray when I do the Aztec work. Will it look okay, guess we'll all find out when I get to that point.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Warp Drive Nacelles*

Finally got the two of these assembled and the rough spots cleaned up. Ran into several problems putting them together. Edges that did not line up, areas that were warped and on one drive when the front was joined together the back end was 1/2 inch apart with the sections going different directions??? But several curses later, a 1/4 tube of green putty and several pieces of 360 grit sandpaper, not to mention my fingers looking like prunes after wet sanding all of the green putty off there done. Also the rear of the drives the small fins were misshaped I repaired these by filing them down to a flat appearance instead of the curved way they were. Now I can apply some paint tonight, and I don't even want to talk about the pylons that attach the drives to the hull, what a mess they are there goes the rest of my tube of putty. new photo can be seen at
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Paint problem*

Air brushed the drive nacelles yesterday afternoon, then when they were dry I went to check them. The paint had dried to a rough texture and also some of it rubbed off like dust??? Cleaned off the loose stuff, gave the nacells a light wet sanding on the rough spots and will try again tonight after work.


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## ShotgunLebowski (Sep 12, 2003)

What primer did you use?

John


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Just plain gray primer, I'm thinking it was the thinner I tried some off the shelf stuff, not the model masters thinner I used on my Enterprise kit,


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## fokkerpilot (Jul 22, 2002)

There is a White sandable (wet/dry) primer made by Rustoleum called Painter's Choice. I've used that with very good results. But only use the White. I've tried the grey and it did some real funky things to both Acrylic and Enamel based airbrushed paints. As far as the White primer, I have airbrushed over that using MM Acrylic (H20 based) and enamels with no problem at all.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Engines and pylons*

After a week of slow work I have cleaned up the warp engine housings, filled a couple of missed gaps in the intercooler panels, after all that I decided to go ahead and install the mounting pylons to the drive nacelles. After they were in place and the ACC dried. I spread some Green Squadron Putty along the joint lines of the pylons, along one of the joints where the pylon attaches to the drive nacelle I had a gap. So here I tried that new way of filling gaps without sanding that I saw posted here. I spread some putty along the joint line then using some Q-tips dipped in Cutex nail polish remover I smoothed the putty into place, and last a quick wipe with a clean Q-tip to clean the area and it was finished, nice joint line almost no sanding it just needs a small and light brushing in one spot. The pylons still need to be wet sanded but I hope to paint this weekend and start adding the Aztec grids, there is a new photo of the nacelle under destruction on my site:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

I am very interested in learning how you align and attach the pilons to the saucer section. I have a reliant model as well and there are no guide pins, grooves or anything to insure proper alignment. Can you share what you did when you reach this step?


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## ShotgunLebowski (Sep 12, 2003)

Ah so you air brushed the primer on? The thinner could be the problem. I have been using Krylon sandable primer and I think it works way better then the testors primer. The finish is a lot smoother and the paint seems to stick alot better to it. 

John


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

ShotgunLebowski said:


> Ah so you air brushed the primer on? The thinner could be the problem. I have been using Krylon sandable primer and I think it works way better then the testors primer. The finish is a lot smoother and the paint seems to stick alot better to it.
> 
> John


Does Krylon make a primer for air brushes? If not, are you using can spray or brush on primer?


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Nacelle alignment*



Old_McDonald said:


> I am very interested in learning how you align and attach the pilons to the saucer section. I have a reliant model as well and there are no guide pins, grooves or anything to insure proper alignment. Can you share what you did when you reach this step?


There are two mounting pins on the top pylon piece that go into the saucer section, but the way I'm going to assemble this kit I broke these off because I assembled the whole unit for painting. I'll be using the small triagular nub that sticks out the side of the saucer as my locating point for the rear of the pylon, the rest will be by line of sight and some brackest made up to hold the saucer and nacelle in place level with one another. But I'll put up a pic or two when I do that


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Paint Fix*

The nacelles are painted with their first color and the paint problem has been fixed, guess it was switching from Model Master thinner to an off the shelf brand, when I applied the next coat to cover the repairs and to paint the new parts added it went on smooth, with no other problems. Next project will be applying the Aztec panels to the drives and pylons :freak: , then finish painting the side details intercooler and rear fin area. Last I also yesterday cemented the saucer sections together so after I finish removing all the shingle like side details, I can start removing the areas along the joint line that stick out. I have to get these areas cleaned up so I can start applying the styrene strips for the sensor bands that were so badly done in the molding process. If this idea works the side area of the saucer will look great, but if it flops....I'll never tell.... My motto, better modeling one screw up at a time. new PIC on the web site (not much to look at)
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Saucer work*

I've finished removing all the shingle type molding on the hull, then I went back with an X-acto knife and spread on Green Squadron Putty like peanut butter then used the blade to scrape a smooth surface. After it dried I wet sanded the areas smooth next up is start applying some of the styrene strips. New photo at http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Looking very good Rob. Are you planning to replace or modify the B/C decks? Those always bothered me. I was going to modify them but then DLM came out with a replacement part. Saved me a lot of time and aggravation.


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## Thall10000 (Mar 31, 2004)

Robert, 
For those of us who have been out of the hobby for many years, thanks for the progress photos and reports on you Reliant build-up. I am a visual type of guy (due to the fact that I am the chief photographer at a three newspaper publishing group in Southern California) and your images help a great deal. If the internet was around when I was in the hobby I might never have gotten out!

Thanks again
Tim


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*B & C Deck*



Capt. Krik said:


> Looking very good Rob. Are you planning to replace or modify the B/C decks? Those always bothered me. I was going to modify them but then DLM came out with a replacement part. Saved me a lot of time and aggravation.


I'm planing on just making a modification or two to make it look better, wife will skin me if I order any more parts for this kit, have ordered a nice set of the brass Aztec templates to use for this and other projects, then got the JT Graphics decal set also got the Saratoga set for another reliant kit I have stashed away, then add a gallon or two of paint, and don't forgot the 2 NX-01's I have on the side lines waiting to be built if my Aztec works turns out good enough. To get her mind off my hobby spending I bought her a round trip ticket to Michigan to go see the Grandson, that made her happy.


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## ShotgunLebowski (Sep 12, 2003)

Nope the krylon primer was rattle can. I bought it in my local hardware store. Looks good so far!. 

John


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Hull Sensor Bands*

I've started installing the saucer Sensor Bands using strip styrene .010 X .040 for the top and bottom of the bands. I had to make a small change that will cause me to change the 3 interior bands to .020 or maybe .030 in width to get a good spacing. I posted a photo to the web site but I'm having trouble getting a good shot of the work with it being white on white.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Sensor & hull bands*

Have finally finished the top and bottom sensor bands around the saucer, and down the side of the hull. Also I have installed styrene strips up the side of the main hull for the shingle type of effect, but it's not the same, but I'll take it. Ran into a space problem on the saucer rim when I lowered the top styrene strip to keep from having to fill a gap along the rim with putty. Now instead of 5 bands I'm only going to have 4 (yeah I know I could have avoided this if I'd got the Federation Models side repair kit. But I like doing things the hard way, and I have a ton of things to do yet. Drill out and build up the docking port behind the bridge, make new doors for the hanger bays, install the ring around the top of B deck and a few other touchups. I have also come to the conclusion I'm more a hacker that a true modeler
Can't wait till I get some paint on this problem child so the photos come out better new shot at:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

I really appreciate you sharing all of this. I'm following this as closely as a Harry Potter book.


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Robert Hargrave said:


> I have also come to the conclusion I'm more a hacker that a true modeler


Welcome to the club Robert. I often do stuff that sometimes works out but most often it doesn't. Use to upset me now I just consider it part of the learning process. Funny, you'd think by now after 40 years of modeling I'd have it down pat.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*For Old Mcdonald*

All the styrene strips are install and look pretty good, there are lots of joint lines to putty and wet sand smooth. But a good photo was taken using natural light out on the patio of the house, and detailed instructions have been left for OMD and anyone else wanting to try this on my web site.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html
As a post note a little better planning will result in a better spacing on the sensor bands along the saucer section. More to come later this week. Enjoy...


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

I noticed that you drilled out the windows along the saucer edge. Since you're not lighting the kit, how do you plan to show "lit" windows?


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

What your seeing is whats left of the cast window openings after I filed off the shingle like design cast on the hull. Then filled the window openings with putty and sanding them smooth. You can see the green putty through and between some of the strips, but when painted if everything is smooth these will vanish. As for windows I ordered the Reliant decal sheet from Federation Models and it has lit and unlit window decals just like those that come with the Polar Lights Enterprise kit. And since I'm changing the colors of the hull these windows should come out fine.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Another couple of points to cover I have not just been sitting around the last week I have gotten some work done on the Star Trek Reliant. Between working on the Reliant I have also been doing some work on a W.W.II British Mosquito bomber aircraft for my grandson. Work completed on the Reliant to date are the following. All the sensor bands and side pieces along the saucer and side hull are in place. All window openings have been filled with putty only the B/C deck section still needs sanded. Joints in the styrene bands have been filled with putty but need sanded. The bridge and lower sensor dome have been installed also the red impulse engine covers have been installed along with the clear hanger bay doors, which I am in the process of cutting out the door portion of these pieces, using a small router bit and small files to clean up the edges when removed. These doors are going to be replaced with a piece of sheet styrene with scribed lines to replace the door on the cast part. I'm going to fill the lower sensor dome window areas with styrene and putty then the hull will be ready for paint, as for the ring around B deck I tried a couple of different ways to make that overhang, but they failed to impress me so I have decided to just leave it as it is. Pictures will be posted of the work in progress when I have a coat of paint on the shell


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## Models502 (Apr 25, 2004)

*Looks great*

:thumbsup: Nice work Robert,I hope you keep at it and let us know how it's going. I know when I saw all those ridges on the hull I would need to take them off. You have given me hope for when I get around to doing mine.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Thanks for the pat on the back, I hope to get the rear panel done tonight so I can begin attaching it to the rest of the ship. In test fitting the parts they are such a bad fit I'm looking at cementing one side then let it sit over night then doing the other side the next day. After it's in place then the real fun begins, looks like it will take a half a tube of putty to fill all the voids and gaps between the shell and this part. there will also be some fine tuneing when the nacelles are attached and several gaps to fill with putty there also. But that is a long way off, painting and Aztecing come first.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

I seem to be missing the channel selector; how do I change Robert back to building the J2?


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The wife keeps asking the same question, as it sits on top of the computer desk staring at us every time we sit there to compute, with it's one big eye. Blame the PL contest, it set me off on a building tear and I'm finding it hard to go back to that project as I know its going to take a longgggggg time to finish. Last there are some parts I have not worked out how to build in a couple of the areas around the outer ring of the lower saucer, but I guess I'll have to go back to work on it in the near future. I want to see it finished also, but right now I'm having fun building there other smaller projects....


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

It's ok. I've got a flying sub taunting me from its perch in the basement. And I don't even have the excuse I'm having fun building something else!


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

I have added 4 more photos to the web site showing and explaining the hanger bay doors idea, the upper and lower saucer areas filled in with putty. First coat of paint is just around the corner.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The rear section has been installed, with many gaps and voids left to fill with putty. Much wet sanding of the whole shell has been done tonight along with scraping some areas with the edge of an X-acto blade to get them cleaned up. Just one or two touchups and it will be ready for paint. New photos at:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*First coat of paint*

Last night I applied the first coat of paint to the upper hull and sides of the Reliant (Dark Ghost Gray #1741) all went well. I did find that some of the windows on the upper hull of the saucer, that radiate out from the B/C deck dome need some touch ups with putty and some more sanding. Then I'll give the painted areas a light sanding and another coat of paint. The styrene bands I installed show very well after the paint was applied, the paint makes them look closer together than they really are. New photos at 
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

Looking great so far. I think I'll give the styrene strips a try when I start mine.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Robert Hargrave said:


> The styrene bands I installed show very well after the paint was applied, the paint makes them look closer together than they really are.


I was under the strong impression that those bands aren't raised on the studio model. They're just painted. I'll have to check to confirm that.

Qapla'

SSB


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

A check of the Ex Astris site shows that if they're raised, it is _very_ slight.

See these photos. 

Qapla'

SSB


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Looking at the PICS of the Saratoga you posted a link to, and being that there are no shots of the saucer area in them, but there are 2 good shots of the rear side panels. In the photos the areas in question are raised but solid. Mine are separate strips of styrene, with a small gap between strips. Yes, the gray bands are most likely painted on but I wanted something that looked a little more interesting. My kit, my rules. Heck I'm already painting it the wrong colors, so what's a few strips of styrene going to hurt? PS the complaint department is 2300 miles due south.... He He. I don't take life serious, so why should I take my modeling seriously? Its just fun. The cursing contest begins when I go to paint the four bands around the saucer Lt. Ghost Gray to make the inner bands stand out, so keep your ear plugs handy...


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Boy do I need to go to confession, this Aztec stuff is a real brain buster, I have the Federation templates for the saucer, but the main body trying to figure out a design that looks similsr is making me crazy. I may just chuck it all and go with the NX-01 look and really make my one day fleet look alike in style. When I get my order from PNT you may be surprised or shocked what I'm going to do to my first kit bash (a scout) version. But that's later stuff, right now eye's are watering, brain is fuzzy. If I can't get this looking good on the Reliant how will I ever get my NX-01 done. PS ordered a nice brass plate for the new base I'm building for the Reliant, one way or another it will be a nice looking kit when I finish it some day. No new photos on the web site at this time.


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

Robert,

don't know if you'd be interested but there is a set of templates for the Reliant at this location: http://www.federationmodels.com/products/walker_enterprises/default.htm

When I do mine, I'll be getting a set cause I could never hand-mask such a pattern.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

I have a set of those, they are fine for the saucer. But I still have the main body to do and changing from one type to another for different areas of the ship woun't look right to me.


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

To be honest, I never knew the "main body" had any aztecing. I'm really looking forward to what you produce.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

I figure if the saucer has Aztec work and panels, then the back or Aft section should look the same way. It has panels also. May just make it look like the Aztec work on the NX-01, seems only fitting as that was the reason for building the Reliant to practice my Aztec painting skills to do my NX-01 kit.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

:thumbsup: I like your idea for the strips around the saucer. It solves the problem of painting the blasted things or the heartache of trying to decal them.


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Robert Hargrave said:


> Yes, the gray bands are most likely painted on but I wanted something that looked a little more interesting.


Nothing wrong with that. Just wasn't sure whether you were trying to go as accurate as possible or were building your own interpretation. Enjoy! 

Qapla'

SSB


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

sbaxter said:


> Nothing wrong with that. Just wasn't sure whether you were trying to go as accurate as possible or were building your own interpretation. Enjoy!
> 
> Qapla'
> 
> SSB


That's gonna be my take on my Reliant. Personally, I never liked the Aztecing they are doing on the Federation ships. You can't even see them on the tv shows. I plan to paint my ship a light shade of gray so that I can paint "lit" windows using polar white and paint in a lot of details such as hatched, phasers, escape pod openings, etc. and let the details bring the model to life after applying washes in the recessed areas. I had never thought of using strip styrene to build up the sensor strips. That has really made a difference in the saucer's appearance and I'm gonna try that. 

I'm currently trying to figure out the best way to reproduce the blue lit effect around the shuttlebays without lighting it. I'm waiting to see how Robert does this.

Robert, I noticed that your Enterprise 1701 pictures link is not working, are they still available for viewing?


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

To Sbaxter: I never took any offence to your comments, I in return was being a smart butt, your lucky you don't work around me always a smart comment or come back line for fun. Just glad your looking in.... As for Old MC, the shuttle bays will be just paint will maybe be looking for a metallic blue to try and get the light effect or just duck egg like all the other areas. Got my brass plate for the base in the mail today for when I build the new base the Reliant will sit on, nice piece of wood with 2 brass rods going into the underbelly just behind the saucer area. That's the plan so far, but don't think it will change. As for the NCC-1701 web site its been closed the kit was sent to my grandson which he loves, its on a shelf in his room now, had to make room for a new project the Reliant.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

I guess I just don't have an eye for abstract art or patterns, looking over all the Aztec patterns on the NX-01 and the painting templates I see online and the set of brass ones I purchased from Federation Models. Then making drawing after drawing trying to make the patterns make sense, I don't see or get the pattern. So last night I just sat down with my sheet of glass, my X-acto knife and a steel ruler, and started tearing off a 3 or 4 inch strip of blue painters tape. Then I took one measurement off the hull to figure out the height of a panel or panels I was going to cover, I cut 1 strip off the section of tape that height, then cut several pieces off that strip making the pieces different widths. Next I just started putting pieces on the hull, then going back with smaller strips to change the shape of a piece or add an extension to one. You can see the start of my work at:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## sbaxter (Jan 8, 2002)

Robert Hargrave said:


> To Sbaxter: I never took any offence to your comments, I in return was being a smart butt, your lucky you don't work around me always a smart comment or come back line for fun.


Hey, you're describing me. I consider the day wasted if I cannot think of a new, ever-more-heinous and hideous manner to murder my co-worker -- and tell him all about it. I have to wait until people know me enough to understand that no, they need not go call the police.


> the shuttle bays will be just paint will maybe be looking for a metallic blue to try and get the light effect or just duck egg like all the other areas


How about a fluorescent blue? It seems roughly the right shade, and would certainly be bright enough …

Qapla'

SSB


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

After about 2 and 1/2 hours of work over 2 nights cutting and placing strips of tape on the hull of the Reliant I have almost half of the upper area finished. Which now is raising questions in my mind of what would the hull really look like, or would you even see any type of seams, panels, or Aztecing if you were looking at a real vessel built like this. The Aztec work and templates I see used or for sale seem to uniform to me, would all the panels look alike or would they be more random? But I'm sure they would not look anything like my work, but for my project they will do. New photo at http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Who knows what the art director had in mind (aztecing)? May be as simple as adding interest and depth. (I'm sure someone out there will inform us). Looks good! (hopefully you'll still be able to see straight enough after this one to finish your J2!)


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## JerseyPhoenix (Jun 2, 2004)

Well if you look at actual pictures of the space shuttle you can see the minor differences in the ceramic tiles that makeup the hull. I guess the Aztec idea was a streach off the tile pattern used on actual space craft.

Or maybe the tile pattern was derived from the Aztec, hmmmm?


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Finished adding panels this morning, then took it out to the paint booth in the garage and sprayed the upper section of the hull with Light Ghost Gray. To be honest I'm not sure how it looks, from one angle its not to good but turn it around and look from another view its okay. Not great its okay, if anyone wants to look and leave a comment or suggestion be my guest. But for this kit that's the final look, other than a few lighter panels I'll add later.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Thall10000 (Mar 31, 2004)

I heard one of the modlers, I can't remember who, say that after doing what you did he would wet sand with a 1000 grit to nock down the edges between the layers of paint used in aztecing and oversprayed the model with a light coat of white to cut the contrast down. Maybe thats what your looking for?

Tim


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Paneling surprise*

One thing that did surprise me was after spraying the coat of Light Ghost Gray then removing the masking tape there were only a couple of spots where the paint left a raised line and those areas were only on one sometimes two sides of the tape. So it seems no sanding needs to be done. But the light over spray idea seem like one I may try, but instead of white I think I'll use Dark Ghost Gray to blend the two colors better.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Warp Nacelles*

I've added the paneling work to the warp nacelles, and sprayed on the Light Ghost Gray. I'm now thinking if I do this project again the next time I'll go with Light Ghost Gray first then spray the Dark Ghost Gray second. I also sprayed the Intermediate Blue on the back area of the upper hull, a few touch ups to do and I can move on to the underbelly work and painting the sides of the drive nacelles. I posted a photo of the work so far with the drive nacelle just sitting in place at:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## uss_columbia (Jul 15, 2003)

Thall10000 said:


> ... and oversprayed the model with a light coat of white to cut the contrast down


I'm always a little scared of that overspray step. After spending countless hours masking and painting the aztec, I'd sure hate to mess it up with too heavy or uneven overspray. Anyone have any suggestions for keeping it even? I'll practice on mock-up aztec patterns before I risk messing up a real one, of course.

Paul


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

When I was considering doing the over spray step I forgot all about the Duck Egg and Intermediate Blue colors that would also be on the hull, having started applying those colors already, that kind of kills off the over spray as I do not want to spend more time masking all the blues off.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Last night I sprayed on the first section of Duck Egg Blue on the under belly of the main hull (more like duck egg green to me) boy does it look nasty against that gray. It calls for that color on the grills of the nacelles, but I'm going to look for a shade of blue instead. The intermediate blue looks fine to me but not the duck egg blue, may leave it but its not to late to change it either. Will add a photo of this blunder to the web site: http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Spent part of today working on the drive nacelles, painting the Intercoolers, side grills and rear section. And like in a couple of other areas I have gone off and use paint colors of my choice, for the side grills I used Conrail Blue and Caboose Red, but painted the rear section pre the instructions with Intermediate Blue as seen in the photos #23 and #24
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Just a little PS on the painting progress, if I ever do another Reliant type project (and I have another kit in the closet) or someone out there wants to paint one like mine, here are two suggestions #1 - I painted the front of the drive nacelles as the instructions showed Black and Duck Egg Blue, after they were finished I did not like the color combination, my thought is make the intercooler color silver or aluminum, then paint the cross bracing the same as the hull. The black isn't a bad color but the Duck Egg Blue is a bad choice on the Gray hull color, on a white hull it may work. #2 - what ever color I use for the Photon domes I will also use that color on the hanger bay doors, right now I'm thinking of a Route Rock or Rock Island Blue Gotta use up those old Railroad paints somehow.


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

I was under the impression that the "blue" portion of the nacelles was only on the inside while the outsides were flat black.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The AMT/Ertl instruction sheet shows only the exterior grills and shows them Duck Egg Blue with the ribs being Black. Not super happy with the rib molds so I just went with the blue, looking at them by the time you cover the ribs with black not much of the blue would be left. Oh well its just me breaking more rules, scram, here comes the modeling police.....


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

Here are some Miranda class III images you may find useful. I think I'll be using this as a reference when I paint mine. I'm not sure I completely trust the Ertl paint guide.

http://www.starfleetmodeler.com/Starships/Miranda Class III/default.htm


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

To Old McDonald, thanks for the link I had seen it before but did not remember where, it answers a couple of questions. I still like the blue side grills better than black see photo


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## Old_McDonald (Jul 5, 2002)

Works for me. :thumbsup:


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The under side of the saucer is finally painted and paneling in place now I can move onto the roll-bar, already have some ideas for attaching it to the drive nacelle pylons. After I peel off the tape from the panel sections I can do the weathering on the saucer ring to make the rust and grime ring like I did on the NCC-1701 Enterprise saucer, this time I'll try it with Acrylic tube paints to try and prevent the thinner accident I had on the Enterprise hull, with the thinner climbing up the dome. Would be a little hard to repaint the dome area with all that paneling in place. I've added a photo of the compleated under side of the saucer, now on to lots of touch ups and some weathering work.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The poor Reliant took a beating tonight, I tried brushing on tube acrylic paints to do the rust and grime along the outer saucer. When I did this with lacquer paints on the Enterprise it came out great, but the acrylic rust color just would not thin out, and stayed way to dark, and my grime didn't even show up after it dried. Tomorrow I'll try a stiff brush and some alcohol to get the acrylic to thin out some more as a last resort some dull coat. New pic at 
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Alcohol works.*

After the Acrylic washes dried overnight, I dipped a cotton ball in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and started scrubbing the saucer area I had weathered yesterday, a good portion of the rust color came right off and lightened up very well. I then went back over the area with some grime and hit a couple of spots with the rust again. With that done I also today painted the Photon domes and the rings around them, painted the hanger bay doors, and the impulse engine outlets and last the two sensor domes on the top and bottom of the saucer. I still have several areas to do some last minute painting and a couple of touch ups yet to finish. Very soon it will be time to attach the warp drive engines and spray on some gloss coat for decals. 4 new photos at:
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Almost finished*

It was a quiet day around here so I worked on and off on the Reliant, and it is mainly finished. For old McDonald I attached the warp drive nacelles to the main body by applying slow setting ACC to the interior of the pylon along the top, bottom, and side area's that join to the main hull. This prevented ACC smears as these areas only had to slide a short distance to join to the main hull. And when the back tab of the pylon butted up against the nub that sticks out from the hull the drive aligned its self just fine, held it all in place for a minute or so and then left it alone for a while. All the touch ups are done, painted the running lights, added the phaser ports and new running lights to the drive nacelles. As a final touch I installed my display stand with its brass plate that reads U. S. S. Reliant NCC-1864 you can see part of it in one of the 4 new photos on my web site. Enjoy now to get the roll bar finished.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Jabbs (Oct 14, 2003)

Wow. You did great on the panels. I'm very impressed. This is the first thread I've read that didn't have anything to do with the 1701, that I took the time to read the whole thing, look at all the photos and followed the links.
Has anyone done the botany bay? Being the older Khan ship.
Keep rock'n!


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Nice work. After this will you puleeeez continue your excellent build-up (and journal) of the J2?


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Dear Steve244*

YES!!!!!!!! I have been thinking about it for awhile now, and just needed to take a break from figuring out how I was going to make the next section come together. Still not sure how I'm going to build the elevator yet, will figure it out when I get there. After the reliant is dome I will go back to work on the *Jupiter 2*


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

OK thx. Sorry to distract you.

(unheated solder is pliable and makes excellent elevator cage material.)


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Spent part on the morning and just now finished cleaning up the J-2 web site some material is gone but new stuff will follow, now Steve go to your room (not your hobby room) your room young man.


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Reliant Almost Finished*

My work on the Reliant was put on hold from Wednesday on. We have a new modeler in the family and the Grand Parents (the wife and I) have been making lots of trips to the hospital and to the home of the new parents to make sure he's being properly trained in model building (never to early to get that hand eye coordination going). But its Sunday now and time to get back to work, the roll bar section has its first coat of paint, the weapons pod face plates are painted. This afternoon I'll gloss coat the main hull and hope to start adding decals tonight. My plan is to have this project finished by this Wednesday and fihished photos on the web site, and close the book on the Reliant project. Hope all that have checked in to see what's been going on have enjoyed the project, and I know one or two have found an idea or two they want to try out on their own project. This has been a fun project for me and as always a little of a learning experiance also (learned a couple of new *#&@% words). Any project that I don't end up at the doctors office or the emergency room is a good project. Last note, the RELIANT web page like all other projects I've built and displayed there, will be left up for a month or so, then it will be deleated. So any notes you may want to take down on how something was done, or pictures you want to look at, please do so soon after the project is finished, later it will be gone. But finished photos will go to my home page. Again thanks for checking out my project and all the messages and comments sent. R. Hargrave Avondale AZ :wave:


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## capt Locknar (Dec 29, 2002)

Looking good


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Looks GREAT! :thumbsup:


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*When will it end....*

With my last breath, I spit at thee: will this project ever come to an end. I have been working on and off for 2 days applying the decals to the Reliant, and there killing me. I got the JIT Graphics set from Federation Models, the decals are great very crisp and easy to apply, but the thin line ones tear if you even look at them the wrong way. 3 new photos have been added to the web site to show how the ship looks so far with some decals applied. Yes I made a slight change in the alignment of the NCC ID bar on the saucer it just didn't look right to me when applied in the way the directions showed.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

*Reliant Finished!!!!!!*

Okay I lied, I still have 1 pylon to cement in place and 2 phaser cannons to install, other than that she's finished. Last photos are being installed on the web page, and I can breath again. For the Star Trek fan this isn't the Reliant, but for me this is how I see her looking. There are so many small goofs on this build, or little blips she would never win any contest unless it was one of those "what not to do" ones. But I am pleased with the final result. Enjoy the final photos.
http://hstrial-rhargrave.homestead.com/reliant.html :wave:


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## Edward Baxter (Jul 20, 2004)

Robert Hargrave said:


> I'm planing on just making a modification or two to make it look better, wife will skin me if I order any more parts for this kit, have ordered a nice set of the brass Aztec templates to use for this and other projects, then got the JT Graphics decal set also got the Saratoga set for another reliant kit I have stashed away, then add a gallon or two of paint, and don't forgot the 2 NX-01's I have on the side lines waiting to be built if my Aztec works turns out good enough. To get her mind off my hobby spending I bought her a round trip ticket to Michigan to go see the Grandson, that made her happy.
> 
> Mr. Hargrave. Where did you find brass templates. Please Send Me The Address so I Can Order The templates myself. Thank you very much. I've Been looking for them for a long time! Thank you! I just bought the NX-01 And I want to make it as close to the show model as possible. Fiber optics products, Inc is going to be making a lighting kit for the NX-01 within the next month. It's going to incorporate 5 different types of fiber optics. Tyeh will be using side glow optics for the nacels, ect. they are making an insert to go into the saucer section so all windows will be lighted equally. I've seen a picture of the completed model and it looks exactly like the tv show. I was blow away when I saw this. Getting back to msking the aztek design for the outer hull, I bought somoe frisket paper to experiment with the Enterprise-A today. I will let you all know how it came out.
> Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank You :thumbsup:


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The project in this thread was the USS Reliant, I was using this as a spring board to practice for when I wanted to do my NX-01 kit. I got the brass template kit from Federation Models you can find their link on this hobby board. If your looking for ideas how to do the Aztec work for the NX-01 check out this link
http://groups.msn.com/AURORAMODELS/polarlightsnx01.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=651


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Been awhile since I had a chance to check on the progress of the ol' Reliant. Very impressive! I like the colors you used. I thought the azteking came out particularly nice. I noticed that there was mentioned in one of the posts that the colors weren't quite right. While that maybe true based on the studio model I prefer to think of it as the modeler's interpertation of the subject. Heck, It's your model you can build it and paint any gosh darned way you please.
All in all a terrific build up and paint job. Kudos!


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

Thanks. I build em as I seez em.


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## NWO (Jul 26, 2004)

That is BEAUTIFUL work on your RELIANT model.
One question though, and I have ALWAYS wondered this.
What exactly is the AZTEC pattern on these ships? Is it some sort of hull plating that is differently colored than the rest of the hull, or is it just some sort of Starfleet CRAZY PAINT SCHEME?
I would like to know!

To me, the AZTEC pattern just looks odd.

Thanks!


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

I have wondered this many times myself, when I purchased a set of the brass painting templates all they were is a set of two patterns one a positive and one a negative copy of each other, I guess if you really look hard enough at them when painted you get the feeling of a pattern maybe showing plates of metal. Like looking a a shingled roof of a house type effect. I did not like the finished look and went my own way with a pattern I liked better, not a fantastic (Oh-wow) effect but it works for me. My effect I was looking for is just different shades of metal say a sheet of stainless steel next to a section of strait sheet metal color difference. The end result is far from that but it looks good.


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