# Cleaning off mold release from Jupiter 2



## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I can't find it from recent posts so I thought I'd just ask. What seems to work best to get the mold release off the Jupiter 2 parts? I used 409 and water to wash the parts and rinsed them in running water. I used paper towel, wet from 409 to mildly rub the parts. Should that about do it?


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## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Or, how about a spritz of Simple Green, followed by a water rinse?


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## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

Yeah, a wash in regular soap and water usually does it for me.

Sean


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

Any of that stuff should work. If you use soap, go with dish soap and warm water, that usually does the trick for me, even on most resin kits. 

Or if it doesn't I'd like to suggest using Easy-Off™ Oven Cleaner. The few times I've had problems w/getting mold release off using the less-caustic methods (as above), Easy-Off™ has served me well. The usual disclaimer about Easy-Off™: use in well ventilated area, wear old clothing, wear rubber gloves of the type used to clean an oven, bathtub or toilet, do NOT get in eyes and read directions thoroughly before using. 

Easy-Off™ also works great as a paint remover as it doesn't attack the plastic or resin on any of the kits upon which I've ever used it. 

.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Simple Green or Dawn in hot (not too hot, about shower-hot) water has been my way of doing it for quite a while, now. While immersed, I gently scrub the parts with soft-bristle brushes to remove any trace of mold release - followed by a rinse under the tap to get the last traces of soap and release agent off the model, and then an air dry.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I rarely if ever wash plastic kits. IMHO there is really no need unless the kit is obviously greasy. Plus if you use good solvent based paints adhesion is rarely a problem.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Me too. Can't remember the last time I had to wash a plastic kit.
Not that it's outside the realm of possibility.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I wasn't gonna wash it but on the first layer of Deep red or the 1st year deck, I got a boo-boo in the finish. I sanded it out with tooth paste and a pink eraser, and the second coat, after a wash is perfect. 

I've masked it with laytex mold material, and when the "Wood" floor dries I will paint the rest with burt Umber. 

The first year interior did have a few differences, like the single chair which folded out from the console to the glass jar thingy under the tape recorder. 

I will do the non-canon, absolutely wrong colors that represent the colors I plugged in as a Black & White TV viewer. These would be blues, and grays and various gray/silver/black/blue combination's. It isn't correct, but gives the viewer the look of what you may have assumed the colors were during that first year. The assumptions as to color along with the Photo etch panels make the model a true Museum Quality model. If you did the Hero Gear too, the final result will scare you as to just how real it looks.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I wash and/or otherwise everything first, including vacuform kits and even plastic parts from suppliers (like Plastruct) and some hardware store-bought plastic - like PVC. 

Industrial polycarbonate and acrylic plastic sheets from local suppliers usually have a removable film that keeps it clean until I use it. So, I can leave that alone.

Even if there is not mold release, there is sometimes dust and dirt (and even cat hair on some vacuform garage kits!). So, it is a good idea to eliminate any potential problems on the get-go, so they don't become problems later on.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Ivory Liquid in warm water, swabbing lightly with a washcloth, rinsed with warm water and air drying. I learned my lesson about washing parts a long time ago with Garage kits.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Soak everything in Dawn & shower-hot water for a few minutes, swab gently with cotton or microfiber cloth, rinse, air dry. What they all said!!


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

I've never washed a kit before, but I've also never had a model as costly as the M J2 nor am I a model builder of a skill equal to so many on this board. I'm thinking I'm only going to wash the largest most visible parts; the hull, the floor, etc. And even that, I think I'm viewing only as a precaution.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Peacefield said:


> I've never washed a kit before, but I've also never had a model as costly as the M J2 nor am I a model builder of a skill equal to so many on this board. I'm thinking I'm only going to wash the largest most visible parts; the hull, the floor, etc. And even that, I think I'm viewing only as a precaution.


I"ve been building plastic kits for over 45years and never washed a kit. I will clean with a alcohol pad, anything I've handled but that about it. My Seaview and Flying Sub was not washed and the paint came out perfect. I would not tell anyone ether way but for me my J2's hull looks fine so it will just get a good wipe-down before I paint. This is just MHO.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I'm discovering that washing or not washing is dependant on the manufacturer. Resin & garage kits, absolutley, Moebius; yes, tamiya; no, Revell; yes, etc.
Now back to my "Voltones blimp" from Manatu Junction.


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