# Has anyone used detail master door hinges?



## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Hi,

Has anyone ever used this product? Does it create workable hinges? Does anyone know if these hinges can be used for trunks or is there a separate trunk/hood kit?


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

I've done them, they're very difficult the first time but they're not nearly as hard as the DM NASCAR hood hinges. The thing I did was secure the part to the door first and then work on the attachment to the body. Use CA with zip kicker if the car is still unpainted, don't use the kicker on a painted surface.


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks Pete, are you aware of any online tutorials on how to use this?


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

I looked on Youtube and didn't find any. I'm an IPMS member and we have a meeting this Sunday, I;ll see if they know of someone who may have at least pictures.


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks Pete, I have been modeling for years but this is t6he first time I am using photo etched parts. The parts and shipping are a bit expensive so i don't want to mess it up.


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Yeah I know what you mean. When I did the NASCAR hood hinges about 15 years ago you had to heat up a little piece of nylon fishing line and make a small ball at the end for the "bolt" to hold the hinge together. I must have tried to do that half a dozen times before I got one right. We used to make our own trunk and door hinges from paper clips and sheet plastic too. I'm doing a '32 5-window right now that I'm considering suicide doors on but I'll make my own piano hinges for that using thin brass tube. I'll try to get a few shots of that process if I actually do it. I'm fighting early Parkinson's and some of the stuff I used to be able to do is just impossible now.


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Thanks Pete, 

sorry to hear about your parkinsons, but glad to hear that you are still modeling. I found some u-tube stuff for model car hinges using brass tube, and I originally started in that direction and did a back door, but I'd like to enter this car into my first model contest and I'm thinking that detail master hinges would be more realistic. 

I am also adding detail master seat bealts and car emblems. What is the best adhesive to use with photoetched parts? I read a fine scale modeler article and the author used elmers white glue? I didn't think this would work for a lasting hold on plastic. Others on the web say do not use super glue use epoxy while others say superglue works just fine. Any recommendations?


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

CA is always the best for photo etched, nothing else really holds it. A little secret I discovered with car emblems though, if it's like the fender scripts and such, get some Future floor wax, give the car a good brushing in the area where the script goes and float it into place. Once the Future dries it holds the emblem in the matrix, then reapply the wax on the entire body. I have a few really soft brushes I used for Future, it collapses on the brush strokes and if you accidentally run it you can just brush off the excess. It dries in about half an hour to the touch but wait a couple of hours and buff out with a really soft cloth (not a paper towel). Carefully buffing around your scripts though, they can still be snagged. 

I profiled by Revell '69 Z-28 in another string, one of the cool things I did with that model in that project was under foiling. If you look in the first picture of the car you can see the Camaro script that was molded into the body is foiled. What I did was before painting I applied two pieces of Bare Metal Foil over that script and when I painted the car with an airbrush I kept the paint light in that area. After giving it a week to dry I used a Detail Master 4000 grit finishing sheet to buff the paint off the foiled script without destroying the foil. It worked perfectly and it's something I still do today with vintage muscle cars. 










The foil has worn a little over time, especially with everyone checking the model out touching the script over the last 16 years.


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

Pete McKay said:


> CA is always the best for photo etched, nothing else really holds it. A little secret I discovered with car emblems though, if it's like the fender scripts and such, get some Future floor wax, give the car a good brushing in the area where the script goes and float it into place. Once the Future dries it holds the emblem in the matrix, then reapply the wax on the entire body. I have a few really soft brushes I used for Future, it collapses on the brush strokes and if you accidentally run it you can just brush off the excess. It dries in about half an hour to the touch but wait a couple of hours and buff out with a really soft cloth (not a paper towel). Carefully buffing around your scripts though, they can still be snagged.
> 
> I profiled by Revell '69 Z-28 in another string, one of the cool things I did with that model in that project was under foiling. If you look in the first picture of the car you can see the Camaro script that was molded into the body is foiled. What I did was before painting I applied two pieces of Bare Metal Foil over that script and when I painted the car with an airbrush I kept the paint light in that area. After giving it a week to dry I used a Detail Master 4000 grit finishing sheet to buff the paint off the foiled script without destroying the foil. It worked perfectly and it's something I still do today with vintage muscle cars.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all of your help on this hopefully I'll have some pictures to post soon!


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Testors Clear Coat Enamal in the jar does the trick,works like the Future but a little stronger.......


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## DarthSideous (Mar 26, 2008)

falcondesigns said:


> Testors Clear Coat Enamal in the jar does the trick,works like the Future but a little stronger.......


Thanks Falcon, I hadn't considered using that, I'll give that a try as well.


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