# 16d Motors



## TheGIMP (Jan 13, 2005)

OK....I need some help. I used to put a beating on the X-Ray's and Micro's at the track. I would have 4 laps on them! So they changed the rules. The rules were box stock motors ONLY...you could do anything to the car but change the motor. In an effort to beat me, they changed the rule to any motor that will fit! Last night I was still 1st, BUT 3 people were on the same lap. 

I see you have a "Pro Stock" class....what motors are you using? S16d....arms? I tried a chuby motor...way to much for me to control....

HELP ME KEEP THE BRP V2 IN 1ST!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,
TheGimp

P.S.--they call me the gimp because I lost 3 fingers on a nitro car....


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

The 16D with a american wound 16D arm with 38 degree timing works well. Faster but not too fast.
Make sure your de binding those motors when you get them in the chassis and have the gear mesh set. It is covered in the setup tips.
I hope to test some Pro stock motors at the next race.


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

I would also try the "twister" type can....


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

*S16D motors*

Micro, isn't the Twister motor can an adjustable timing can?
Maybe you should explain how to set the timing to neutral, advanced, or retarded using the Twister adjustable timing can.

The Gold Dust brushes are advisable; as is a step firmer spring on the Positive brush. The Stock Parma springs (500 motor line; what comes on the motors from Bud) are OK for the negative spring. Or a Champion basic soft spring works fine for the negative spring. A medium spring for the positive spring should be used. Anyone have brand preferences on springs?

Use a very fine toothpick to keep the comm slots clean between race heats and using a Green comm stick that has been cut down on the square side to slide through the endbell slot to polish the comm and clean it. Apply low voltage (3-4 volts) to the motor and then you can press the comm stick into the spinning arm to polish the comm and clean it. You'd be amazed how clean it comes with a couple seconds using the comm stick. It makes a big difference in motor performance. 
Don't use something sharp on the comm slots or you can cause a burr on the comm slot edge which will cause some brush friction/wear and performance will suffer.

Hope this helps...

RAFster
David


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## TheGIMP (Jan 13, 2005)

Thank you RAFster ... you know *ALOT*! You must be one of the *fast*  guys...let me in on any secrets!!!! :thumbsup:


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

GIMP,

You probably have people ROFLMAOGCLBMT 
(Rolling On the Floor Laughing My Ass Off Getting Carpet Lint Between My Teeth)
They probably can't reply due to being incapacitated.

I've learned a lot but being fast isn't one of the things I've learned.
You'll have to talk with Warbird, SG1, Bud, and I guess Micro_Racer on that.

Seems Micro_Racer was looking for information on how to change the comm timing on the 16D motors...
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=96559
Now since Micro_Racer runs stock class, surely he wouldn't be looking for that information to try and edge his advantage would he?  :wave:

RAFster
David


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## sg1 (Apr 2, 2003)

Wow....


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Yes fast,but is he on time ???


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Rarely on time Bud...rarely it seems...

BTW, when you do mess with the comm timing the armature should be rebalanced. 
A little nugget of wisdom gleened from a mature slot car guy...
While you can get good arms from RJR and other slot car suppliers you may get a better arm from a smaller company such as FastOnes, Kelly's, etc. RJR is more of a major manufacturer...the thought is the smaller shop would provide a better balanced arm; taking more time with it...


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

RAFster said:


> GIMP,
> 
> You probably have people ROFLMAOGCLBMT
> (Rolling On the Floor Laughing My Ass Off Getting Carpet Lint Between My Teeth)
> ...


Just getting info for the Pro Stock class  ...lets keep the post CLEAN!!!


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## TheGIMP (Jan 13, 2005)

RAFster said:


> Rarely on time Bud...rarely it seems...
> 
> BTW, when you do mess with the comm timing the armature should be rebalanced.
> A little nugget of wisdom gleened from a mature slot car guy...
> While you can get good arms from RJR and other slot car suppliers you may get a better arm from a smaller company such as FastOnes, Kelly's, etc. RJR is more of a major manufacturer...the thought is the smaller shop would provide a better balanced arm; taking more time with it...


Thank you RAFster -- I picked up a FastOnes 38 degree arm...it is faster than my BRP hand picked motor. Do you use a dyno? and what body is best for road racing? How about the best servo...
-- Also I did a search on all your posts....you are full of *GREAT* information!!! The depth of your answers is AWSOME! If you ever find yourself in Canada -- let me know, the guys at the track would love to meet you! :thumbsup:


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Sure Micro_Racer...whatever you say...yeah, researching the Pro Stock class...
Yeah, yeah, that's the ticket...

You were only 3 months early in your research. (Nov 26th post) Your sense of timing is interesting.


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## sg1 (Apr 2, 2003)

No matter what people say... Rafster is OK in my book


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

He is a hoot !!! Knowledge


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

theGIMP >>>> The SL7 for road is the best wedge for oval. You may need to gear the new arm lower they have more RPM but less torque because of the timing. If you can get them run the pro slot gold dust brushes also.
Micro has the servo number it is a futaba. :thumbsup:


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

RAFster said:


> Sure Micro_Racer...whatever you say...yeah, researching the Pro Stock class...
> Yeah, yeah, that's the ticket...
> 
> You were only 3 months early in your research. (Nov 26th post) Your sense of timing is interesting.


Ask warbird about motor timming.........he is the master!!!!


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## Micro_Racer (Mar 27, 2002)

BudBartos said:


> theGIMP >>>>
> Micro has the servo number it is a futaba. :thumbsup:


Futaba S9602 -- best BRP servo EVER! It may be replaced by a new model this year...but you can still find them at some local hobbie stores and on-line.

Tower still has them:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXH307


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

surprisingly enough I gathered my information from this forum, use the search and the answers will be revealed to any on the journey of knowledge


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## 2slow00 (Sep 26, 2001)

warbird, we know where you get all of your speed secrets! How are you and the gang doing?


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## WARBIRD (Oct 31, 2002)

doing good, work is keeping me busy out of state to much of the time, racing has cut back. I wanted to make it to classic just did not have the time. Gearing up for the pro-stock class it sounds like a good time. The rest of the guys have been racing at Platinum, the track is really nice and smooth. Finally got the V2 put together yesterday and will practice with it tomorrow night. At the rate I'm going it will be the summer series before I make it back up that direction.


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## 2slow00 (Sep 26, 2001)

We might make it down to see you goys next month.


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## TheGIMP (Jan 13, 2005)

WARBIRD said:


> surprisingly enough I gathered my information from this forum, use the search and the answers will be revealed to any on the journey of knowledge



and it is an amazing the journey...... :thumbsup: 

What is the largest pinion you guys run?


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Commonly a 10-43 for high speed banked oval carpet tracks...or possibly an 11 or 12
for exceptional motors. To run anything over a 9 you will need to press the pinion on the shaft with the motor in the car. Or, you have to elongate the slot for the motor pinion/bushing to the rear and make a hole large enough for the pinion to go through.

The Hudy pinion puller is the best value...just avoid the puller that don't have a flat surface for the gear to pull against. It deforms the teeth at the end otherwise.

A 2" C clamp with the arbor button removed and dimpled can work for a pinion press.
Summit and Parma make decent with Parma a better quality than the Summit.
The Hudy is very expensive but a nice one. 
Lucky Bob makes a nice one that is cheaper...around $14. 
But, I don't think either will press the pinion on with the motor in the car.


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## TheGIMP (Jan 13, 2005)

Thanks for the info and email RAFster.....back on top at the track by 4 laps!!!


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

WOW 4 laps !!!! What cars are you running against?


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## TheGIMP (Jan 13, 2005)

Mr. Bartos -- other cars include the street force (3), Micro RS4 (2), and X-Ray (1), and one guy has this Corally (spelling?) that he got on eBay. A new guy Dave just got a FUNWONE with the black chassis, it looks like an old design? Anyway the 4WD guys want to not race with 2WD cars. 

BTW - my motor keeps moving.....how can I stop that? I use the D shaped washers and locktight....

Thanks


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## BudBartos (Jan 1, 1970)

Once you get it all set you can super glue it to the pod plate. That is weird that it is moving however.


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## RAFster (May 29, 2002)

Be careful the motor screws can strip in the motor can if you apply too much torque.
Since the pod is aluminum and the motor can is steel you can't solder it.
Don S has a replacement washer design that replaces the two washers with one large aluminum disc that distributes the force and will not chew up the motor side pod plate.

RAFster
David


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