# armature removal



## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

what are you ?anyone using to pull the top gear off of the armatures and top plates of the t jets???i... f... up the thing when i try to pry them off..is there a special tool i can purchase for this???i am new to rebuilding and need some tips..thanks guys...i am sure i will get the help i need on this one..:thumbsup:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

http://agg.fsmra.com/images/GEAR PULLER2.jpg

http://agg.fsmra.com/prodlist.html

pricey, but the best around


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

can some one tell me if this item # on e bay is worth it???al??
130834237919 or 130834237423???


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/13083423791...l?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=130834237919&_rdc=1
absolutely

http://www.ebay.com/itm/13083423742...l?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=130834237423&_rdc=1
yep

if you can afford them. yes, the best available


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Interesting timing Wyatt and I hope you don't mind me jumping in on this. I have been after one of Alan's gear removers as per Al's link at http://agg.fsmra.com/images/GEAR%20PULLER2.jpg

My problem is that according to the home page, the online store is temporarily closed and has been for quite some time. Does anyone know if Alan is a member here and if so what name does he go by? I've tried emailing him via the address on his site but have not been able to make contact.

Alternately, does anyone have a source for a new AG gear puller? Thanks for any help.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Lucky Bob has the tool listed($17.50), scroll down to Aurora T-jet parts.


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

the guy who was selling them gave me a link to buy a plethora of chassis tools...i was in t jet awe of the tools for sale ..from gear pullers to boiling jigs to wheel tru-ers..just do not know how to use them all....yet...do not have them ...yet...but....i will...gonna jump in slowly ..read...and ask questions from those who have walked the path before me.....first question...how many of these tools do i need???2nd question...are they worth it??..by the way is the website....www.rt-ho.com


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

wyatt, I have nearly all rt's tools along with many from other manufacturers. some of which I have been able to get at bargains on the eBay and at shows.
the boiling jig is nice, but it has become apparent that a warped chassis will return to it's warped state after some time and therefore, I would suggest investing in more chassis to chose from rather than a tool that only provides temporary change.
side note, #4 chassis seem to have more problems than most. so try not to use them for racing.
I would start with the Galinko puller if it is indeed available through Bob's site. there are similar pullers which I use for pulling wheels, but the one with the red handle wraps around MORE of the gear and makes for a better straight pull. and, I do use the RT puller that presses the shaft from above most of the time, but the little red handle one comes in handy on the road.


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

thanks..i want to just dabble and experiment..have quite a few chassis i want to refurbish along with some j/l and m/m bodies i want to match them to...mess with them for awhile and maybe if i get good enuff with the right combos could race a few and sell em once my kid says he is not interested in his cars anymore..but i plan on keeping mine..mine stay..his go...that was our deal..as i slowly loose out to the electronic entertainment systems of this era...


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Thanks for the tip Dyno Dom.

The puller at Lucky Bob's is, or appears to be, the RT-HO version. The A.G & G type has a slightly different arrangement at the business end.

Any chance anyone has any leads on the A.G type?

Cheers,
Michael.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*#4 Chassis(off topic, sorta)*

Yes, Ditto what alpink wrote: "side note, #4 chassis seem to have more problems than most. so try not to use them for racing."
Try and avoid getting an Aurora #4 T-Jet Chassis. EG- I own 50 aurora T-Jet chassis, and 4 of those are the #4 chassis, and ironically- THREE of those are Warped ! I dunno WHY the #4 chassis are Snafu, but they are....and boiling chassis(even in jigs) are just a temporary fix. In the End, you'll be running two different size front tires to compensate for the warpage.


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

Hey wyatt, if ya don't have a big gob of money to spend on those type tools, you can always do it the old fart way first, to see if you really want to go that route buying expensivetools. Years ago we used a socket of the appropriate size, one that the armature would fit inside of easily, a few bucks at a Sears store, or you might even have one in your tool box, and while you are there pickup a 1/16th of an inch straight punch. You will also need a piece of steel for an anvil. This cheepie way of removing an armature will also enable you to remove the cluster gear with the proper size socket. Drill a 1/16th inch hole in the steel anvil and you can reassemble them too, with a few other cheepie tools you can buy at the hardware store. Have a good day! pig


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

*The straight #4 is the warped one...*

The #4 open rivit chassis has a mold problem - the front and rear axle holes are not molded parallel to each other so only three tires touch the track. If you have one that sits flat, it is warped. :freak:




Ralphthe3rd said:


> Yes, Ditto what alpink wrote: "side note, #4 chassis seem to have more problems than most. so try not to use them for racing."
> Try and avoid getting an Aurora #4 T-Jet Chassis. EG- I own 50 aurora T-Jet chassis, and 4 of those are the #4 chassis, and ironically- THREE of those are Warped ! I dunno WHY the #4 chassis are Snafu, but they are....and boiling chassis(even in jigs) are just a temporary fix. In the End, you'll be running two different size front tires to compensate for the warpage.


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

alpink said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/13083423791...l?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=130834237919&_rdc=1
> absolutely
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/13083423742...l?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=130834237423&_rdc=1
> ...


I have both and am happy. The only thing with the GEAR REMOVAL TOOL is that it does not work for AFX but I am happy with both items (a Christmas gift a couple years ago)


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## chappy2 (Jan 7, 2013)

Along the lines of what partspig wrote. I use a tapered punch from .040 to 060" dia. and a cylinder to hold the plate with room for the arm to drop.


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

You might want to consider a different hammer. That one looks like it would be marginal, at best. 




chappy2 said:


> Along the lines of what partspig wrote. I use a tapered punch from .040 to 060" dia. and a cylinder to hold the plate with room for the arm to drop.


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## partspig (Mar 12, 2003)

LDThomas said:


> You might want to consider a different hammer. That one looks like it would be marginal, at best.


That hammer will get the job done. I use a 3 oz. brass hammer that works just fine. You do not need a lot of weight or force to get the arm to pop out! pig


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