# WIP - Robot B9 1:24 from Moebius



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hello folks!

In this project I will try to do something decent with the Moebius 1/24 LIS Robot.
This is what I have to start with:










I guess I'll use three 3mm (or SMD) LEDs for lighting the chest (I've still got to study certain amazing works from you guys, to figure out what and how to do it).

I’ve got 26 AWG gauge wire; it seems adequate to be used in this model.

And the final touch, with the help of those amazing Paul’s photo-etched parts. :thumbsup:

This is gonna be fun. :woohoo:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Looking forward to seeing your progresss. I have one of these myself. Hopefully I will learn something from watching your build.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I hope to be helpful.

Testing dry fit.










It's small but very well detailed.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*Update*

I cut the control panel from the chest, in order to apply the corresponding photo-etch part from Paragrafix. The same with the torso hooks. 










I didn't remove those protruded parts under the guise of being the microphone and torso control knob, but just sanded them a little bit. When I apply the photoetch parts there, I don't want them flush with the torso surface.










Legs and torso were sanded (#1200).



















The hole on the back of the treadsections will give way the wires that will power the lighting. I'm gonna leave the battery outside. I'll explain how.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This is more or less what I am about to do to house and hide the battery. 

Please, don't laugh so loud.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I want to make a duct inside the robot legs to lead the wires of the lighting. First, I tried to bend a styrene tube using a heater, but when the tube folds to 90 degrees, the outside surface stretching and suffers a collapse toward the axis of the tube.

So, I decided to play Supermario Bros. 










Ops! Supermario Drunk :drunk:










Sanded is better.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Tube in place.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Very nice start.....:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks! Do you believe it's possible to putting and sanding the seam lines on the sides of the legs without ruin the accordion chape of the plastic? :freak:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

So far it's looking good ! :thumbsup: And I like the battery case idea. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Begining to apply the Paragrafix photoetch kit. Ain't gonna put decal on the programming bay etched part because I like the metal likeness. Furthermore, I think the tiny decal details would be hardly visible, due to restrictions placed by the cavity. Instead, I will apply drops of paint. I hope I do not regret it. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

DCH10664 said:


> So far it's looking good ! :thumbsup: And I like the battery case idea. :thumbsup:


Thanks. For while, I'm just playing with the idea. I wish I had the talent of Miniature Sun to improvise machines and equipment in general. I know that the thing must appear in scale with the Robot and that the detail have a important role on this. Let's see if I come out with an idea to camouflage the switch.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks. For while, I'm just playing with the idea. I wish I had the talent of Miniature Sun to improvise machines and equipment in general. I know that the thing must appear in scale with the Robot and that the detail have a important role on this. Let's see if I come out with an idea to camouflage the switch.


When it comes to talent, I wish I had the talents of many people that are here. But I keep telling myself, that they didn't start out with such talents. They had alot of trial and errors learning what they know. And alot of practicing to get as good as they are. So if they can learn. So can I.

As for hiding that switch,...All my knowledge of electronics would safely fit in Dr. Smith's heart. But I'm sure some others here can give you some clever suggestions.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

DCH10664 said:


> When it comes to talent, I wish I had the talents of many people that are here. But I keep telling myself, that they didn't start out with such talents. They had alot of trial and errors learning what they know. And alot of practicing to get as good as they are. So if they can learn. So can I.


Agree 100%. :thumbsup:



DCH10664 said:


> As for hiding that switch,...All my knowledge of electronics would safely fit in Dr. Smith's heart. But I'm sure some others here can give you some clever suggestions.


Lol... I'm opened to suggestions. :wave:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

IIRC the Robot had a small rectangular pack on one side which when removed would deactivate him. Any way to modify the kit part so when it is in place it complete the circuit and he is powered up, remove it and the current is broken? A rare earth magnet and reed switch might work...


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> ...Do you believe it's possible to putting and sanding the seam lines on the sides of the legs without ruin the accordion chape of the plastic? :freak:


Judging by the clean, precise work you did with the photoetched parts, yes. After all, it's only plastic.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Richard Baker said:


> IIRC the Robot had a small rectangular pack on one side which when removed would deactivate him. Any way to modify the kit part so when it is in place it complete the circuit and he is powered up, remove it and the current is broken? A rare earth magnet and reed switch might work...


Probably, it could be done in the Masudaya MY-3 and also, in the future Moebius Robot. This one is just 3" tall. Too little space inside the chest, already crammed with three LEDs, wires and stuff. Maybe *I* have limitations. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Zombie_61 said:


> Judging by the clean, precise work you did with the photoetched parts, yes. After all, it's only plastic.


Thanks! 

Well, I was afraid to hear that.  

Basically, I was just looking for an alibi (and support ) for *not* to do that specific job. 

Ok, I will do it. :thumbsup:


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> ...Well, I was afraid to hear that.
> 
> Basically, I was just looking for an alibi (and support ) for *not* to do that specific job. ...


I know the feeling. It's a chore doing it on the larger Aurora/Polar Lights B9 model; doing it on this 1/25 scale kit... :freak:

I _can_ sympathize with you--I have this kit in my collection, and someday I'll have to do it as well.


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## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Great work, nice to see someone build one with the phot etch. I have always been curious.

I had planed on doing another little guy with the photo etch parts, here is one of my little guys built up out of the box. 

Keep up he good work.


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## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

scifimodelfan said:


> Great work, nice to see someone build one with the phot etch. I have always been curious.
> 
> I had planed on doing another little guy with the photo etch parts, here is one of my little guys built up out of the box.
> 
> Keep up he good work.


Oops hate that my iPad post pics sideways sorry


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

scifimodelfan said:


> Great work, nice to see someone build one with the phot etch. I have always been curious.
> 
> I had planed on doing another little guy with the photo etch parts, here is one of my little guys built up out of the box.
> 
> Keep up he good work.


It's amazing how good this kit is "as is". I have seen this kit assembled with photo-etch, but that other version made to the Chariot. The buttons on the front chest look good in pictures. I need to see them live to figure out whether they look as good as when painted, like in your picture. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Okay. Legs puttied, sanded and primed. I got rid from the seam (not without hurt the "rubber" folds). 

To be sincere, I never thought I will. Not for the level of my skills regarding to paint. It still needs some putty here and there (legs and front torso, basically). 

This build continues, quick as a turtle crawling to the sea. :tongue:


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

Don't knock yourself.This is coming out great.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

BOXIE said:


> Don't knock yourself.This is coming out great.


I agree :thumbsup: I sure wouldn't complain if what I see, was sitting on my work bench in front of me.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks for the encouragement guys. Yeah, I guess the thing is not going bad. But the truth is that painting is the field in this hobby in which I feel less comfortable. That's why I didn't bought an airbrush so far. I still need to paint a lot before I venture into this path. 

Ready for the rattle can! :thumbsup:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

The Rattle Can is our Friend. Embrace it. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I almost did a mess here. I was going to paint the torso, forgetting that the two halves need to be glued, filled with putty, and sanded. And, obviously, all the electronic already have to be on board before that, please!!!! :drunk:

So, this is what I'm doing. As I said before, I will use three 3mm rounded LEDs, being one (auto flashing, painted translucent red) to the neon, one (warm white) to the chest buttons and the last (cool white) to the programing bay.

I want to avoid light leakage to outside the torso and between those three sections I mentioned above. To tackle the situation:

1) I made a separation between the neon and chest with a piece of plastic cut to fit and applied a piece of aluminum tape on it;

2) I cut 3 pieces of 9/32" tube (would be better a 1/4" tube, but I haven't it and don't want waiting the postal service) and glued in the way you can see in the pictures bellow. Note that I wrapped the tubes with aluminum tape. 





































Up next, I'm gonna make a hole on the base of the torso (above) to fit the tube built-in the legs.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> ...This build continues, quick as a turtle crawling to the sea. :tongue:


You're my kind of modeler; slow and steady wins the race. Besides, I've never seen anyone win an award for finishing their model first. 




DCH10664 said:


> The Rattle Can is our Friend. Embrace it. :thumbsup:


:lol: That would make a great signature line for any one of us who doesn't own an airbrush.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I almost did a mess here. I was going to paint the torso, forgetting that the two halves need to be glued, filled with putty, and sanded. And, obviously, all the electronic already have to be on board before that, please!!!! :drunk:

LOL, Don't feel bad. I think alot of us, from time to time, tend to get our wagon in front of our horse ! I sometimes just get too anxious to see the model finished.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

My initial intention was to solder all the resistors on a PCB board which will be inside my Robot Diagnose Unit (uuuuhh, sounds well) together with the battery. Later, I realized that the 26 AWG wire I am using is too thick to pass 3 pairs through the hole I did on the tread section.

I could buy a 28 or 32 AWG gauge wire, but now the problem would be my fingers, for those wires are too thin to be handled confortably (by me, at least).

That will be complicated. So there I go!!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

As Hannibal used to say, "I love it when a plan comes together." 

I sanded the LEDs to diffuse light.




























However, I don't know yet if they will fit inside the torso.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Wow. That's some tiny work. The pain!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

kdaracal said:


> Wow. That's some tiny work. The pain!


Yeah, you can bet... and the plan didn't work, as you can see from those pictures. The lighting scheme didn't fit inside the torso.

Well, I will have to go back to my initial plan, which was to place the resistors inside that piece of "hardware" where the battery will also be.

I will have to go somewhere to buy a 30 AWG gauge wire or thinner.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Fernando,
A really nice piece of work such as yours here needs a decent base made specially for this kit:
http://www.culttvmanshop.com/Robot-Base-for-124-figure-from-Night-Owl-_p_984.html


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

Fernando,

Maybe you could house/hide the battery in the Robot Base from Night Owl?

Geno


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks.

Thanks for the suggestion. It's a good option. :thumbsup:

Is that base hollow? 

Anyway, the "hardware" which sketch I posted (#5) won't work, at least not with that design, because a 9v battery is almost 2 inches tall (including the terminals). If you also count the necessary space to house the conector and switch, the hight would reach almost 3 inch, which happens to be the height of the robot. So, if I was to make the thing it should be taller and thus different.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

The base is solid, but can be mounted on a nice wooden base, or hollowed out.


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## 1966TVBATMOBILE (Mar 21, 2013)

interesting Captin


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Removed by author.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

kenlee said:


> I say do it, in Irwin Allen's world there was no such thing as a piece of equipment being too big.


Yes, I'm planning to do an equipment with a different design. :thumbsup:

I didn't found 30 AWG gauge wire and had to buy a 28 AWG wire assortment. 










As can be seen bellow six wires almost pass through the hole, but it has to be enlarged. I could buy some telephone cable with 6 pairs, but I'm out of patience.










This guy is about to be raped! :devil:


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## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Beautiful work. I soooo wish I knew how to work with resistors and electronics. If it isn't a plug and play for me I am baffled. Can't wait to see him finished.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks! Deal with Leds and resistors is not so difficult. I also thought it was. There is plenty of sites that not only explain the basics in simple words, but also provide online calculators that with data from led, source and current, will give you the right resistor to be used and the schematic! And besides, you can always have the help from the masters around here (not me, of course, I'm just a hardworking aprentice). :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The wires passed but, despite its thickness has been reduced, they were tight. I think the ideal gauge would be 32 AWG, not 30 AWG as I initially postulated.

For those that still wait to build this kit, another option, which I eliminated without think when I didi the tube inside the legs, would be to house the resistors right there.

For those that still wait to build this kit, another option, which I eliminated without think when I did that tube inside the legs, would be to house the resistors exactly right there. But, in the end there would be no difference, since the battery must remain outside the kit.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*Beginning the battery's container*

I cut pieces of plastic to set up the battery's container, which I call Robot Diagnosis Unit.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Wow! What a great idea! Are you going to light the diagnostics box too? Irwin Allen
Loved his blinky lights!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey liskorea317

Yes I will. I'm using Pau's photoetch spare set "Classic 1960s/70s/80s Control Panels: Set 1".


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Fantastic! I can't wait to see it completed!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

This is coming together very nicely! The diagnostics console is super.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Excellent work Fernando!!
I only used one LED in Mine..and made a rock like base and then a second to hide the batt.























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Keep the pics comeing it looks really cool!

Steve


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

This is definately going to turn out to be a different take on an old kit. Can't wait to see the finished product. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thank you, folks.

I lost my Internet acess since Sunday morning. It has just returned. Sorry for the absence of news. 

Great idea Steve! I had thought to do something like that, but building bases representing the terrain is stuff for artists and I'm a mere modeller. 

I have some progress here but no pictures, though. I made the circuit board with 5 resistors, being 3 for the chest lighting and 2 for the battery case lighting.

The switch will be located on the rear panel of the case, which will be fixed with a tiny screw on the top side and kind of a slot on the bottom side.

When I saw the decal sheet with the excelent Paragrafix photoetch kit, I made a decision to apply the decals to the control panels of the battery case from behind. This is due the fact that I realized that the decals are a very thin white plastic sheet, instead of a traditional decal, the former allowing the light to pass through easily. 

There are no specific decals to the lower panel and just decals for the two square dials of the upper panel. However, this not a problem at all if you apply a thin plastic sheet like that, once you can drop dots of paint in assorted colors on the exact places behind the little holes on the metal part. Furthermore, you can trace tiny lines as pointers for the four rounded dials of the lower panel. The last action even enhances the sense of depth of the displays. 

Maybe I could add dots of thick(?) paint to the panels "lights" on the front side, to make them protrude from the panel surface. Tha plastic glued behind should (I think) hold the paint.

Sorry for this "biblical" post.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*Progress here.*

I had some difficult to paint this tiny Bubble Headed Booby . Oh, the pain, the pain :freak:.

This delayed the project a bit, but I'll get there! :wave:


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Two companies (at least) make material that's great for using with the holes in the photoetch to let light shine through: Micro Scale Industry's Micro Krystal Klear, and Testors' Clear Part Cement and Window Maker. Krystal Klear can be tinted with food coloring, but I'm not sure about the Testors material.

After you've made the basic "window", you can add additional layers to make a lens shape for a 3D effect.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks, Paul. I applied, indeed, "micro kristal klear" at the back side of the photoetched parts to seal the tiny holes (following your instructions) and then painted some of them red, yellow and green. 

As for the rounded dials, I cut a blank piece of the decal sheet from your "Classic 1960s/70s/80s Control Panels: Set 1" kit and glued it behind the rounded dials. Then, I drew the pointers.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Hmmm. I was sure I included dial sets for all of the large meters (which is why I didn't address that in my previous post). When I get into the office tomorrow I'll have to check what I've got on the backlight films.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

In fact, there are lots of meters in two sizes, but both square. But hey, there is nothing to worry about. Just by chance I used the only panel with four rounded dials.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*Update*


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The new arrangement of the wires fit inside the torso. 



















Preparing to assemble the "robot diagnosys unit". 










Oh yes, and there is also this. *Sigh*










So tiny, delicate and perfect.










I suck with decals. Even using Micro Set I could not stretch that decal.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> The new arrangement of the wires fit inside the torso.  ...


Nice arrangement. Great work.



Fernando Mureb said:


> So tiny, delicate and perfect...


Drat, no blushing emoticon.  Thanks for the kind words.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Paul, and you deserve each word. Your kits really enhance our models a lot, and make the modeling process easier and more fun. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*Entering the critical phase.*


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*Testing dry fit*

Robot Diagnosys Unit


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Fernando,

Just come across your thread and it is fantastic to watch your progress.
I love the Diagnostic Unit, great idea.

I have the same kit and photoetch set sitting in the corner of my workbench partially constructed. I think that you have kicked me back into action on it.

I am probably too late with a suggestion, but maybe for your next project. If you want really thin wire, I often use "wire wrap" wire. Not that commonly used in the electronics industry any more but it is incredibly thin. It is a single strand of copper wire with plastic insulation (0.5mm diameter, including the insulation). I have seen it used in 1/24th scale cars as ignition wiring. It comes in a few colors. I get mine locally here in New Zealand from Jaycar, an Australian owned electronics store. Here is a link to their US online store: http://www.jaycar.us/productView.asp?ID=WW4344&keywords=wire+wrap&form=KEYWORD
Probably the likes of Radio Shack and others will stock it too.
It works fine for LED's, my Moebius Battlestar Galactica is full of it connected to lots of surface mount (SMD) LEDs for the engines and landing bays.

I look forward to seeing your finished model.

Alien
Wellington, New Zealand AKA Middle Earth


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Alien.

Thank you for the kind words. :thumbsup:

In fact, I have this single strand wire, but I didn't use it because even being thin, it lacks flexibility. The robot will be linked to the unit by, sort of, a flexible duct with oversleeves at the ends, coupled to both devices. Hence the need for the wires being flexible.

I spent my available time today dealing with those quite tiny parts that compose neck and brain. I'll have pictures tonight. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I glued the two halves of the torso. Putty was applied. Waiting to be sanded.










Here is an idea that I borrowed from Tim Nolan to improve the neck.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This is the support of the crown. The pin to be inserted into the neck was too short (I probably made a mistake when cutting it from the sprue). So I had to improvise.










The crown is ready.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The Paragrafix Photoetch Set have two options for the ears/sensors, being one with just the sensors and the other a set with sensors plus their posts. I prefer to use the posts that come with the kit, due to the better 3D effect, although they are so tiny that most people simply will note nothing.










Here I'm trying to dovetail the sensor into its post. It was the classical situation of try and error, but after a couple of tries both ears were done.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

So, up next I'm gonna sand and paint the torso and finishing the brain, neck and collar set.

The last part will be the flexible duct (with oversleeves) which will encapsulate the wires that come from the torso lighting kit. Finally, I will have to solder those wires to the board inside the unit and assemble it. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Sorry for have post nothing since the last two days, but I'm in trouble with the #@¨%&$* torso seam lines.  Right now I'm in my 3rd try to get myself rid from them.

The set composed by collar, neck, sensors and bubble/brain is finished. As soon as I have the torso concluded (tommorow, I guess), I will solder the wires to the circuit board, glue the front panel of the battery case and this project will have been done.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Looking forward to seeing your finished product. I've seen alot of these built. But I think yours is going to stand out in the crowd.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Final assembly. Win a candy the first one who point out THE clamorous error in those pictures.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

After five paint jobs trying to give to my metallic friend a good appearance, I think it's not bad. As I have said, it was a pain getting rid of the seams on the torso.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

If I were to restart the work I would do the torso assembly in the following order:

- Photoetche/decals of the control panel
- "Neon" chest
- Lighting kit
- Torso glued, puttied, sanded and painted
- Arms painted and glued
- Claws painted and glued

It's obvious, but it was not what I did. And that had consequences.

I'll do the "power cord" with two hoses at the ends, to disguise the wires from lighting scheme. Then, just solder the wires to the circuit board and paste the front panel of "diagnosys unit".

I think tomorrow I will have finished.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Well heck. Nothing short of spectacular!


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Iz them ears on backards?


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

You won!! Yes, the one on the robot's right side (red). 

I made this mistake and now have no courage to change. The ear and its support are so delicate!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Folks, I beg your pardon for not fulfilling the deadlines that I set for myself to finish this project.

The reason is quite prosaic: I need flexible straws to make the hose that will envolve the wires between the robot and the battery case. Believe it, it turns out that I'm having trouble finding them!!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I've got a bunch in my kitchen, but I don't think it would be practical to ship you a few. :wave:


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> You won!! Yes, the one on the robot's right side (red).
> 
> I made this mistake and now have no courage to change. The ear and its support are so delicate!


I don't think it qualifies as a mistake--I've seen promotional photos and screengrabs with those red and yellow sensors (or whatever they"re supposed to be) on either side. It's been quite some time since I've watched any episodes, but I think the assembly they're attached to rotates so that the B9 could position them wherever he needs them to be.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Zombie_61 said:


> I don't think it qualifies as a mistake--I've seen promotional photos and screengrabs with those red and yellow sensors (or whatever they"re supposed to be) on either side. It's been quite some time since I've watched any episodes, but I think the assembly they're attached to rotates so that the B9 could position them wherever he needs them to be.


That's true. Say that I picked up a "still" in which the little red sensor was turned backwards.


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

I am still well impressed. The bubble headed booby looks great.
Well done. Keep posting. Can't wait to see him all lit up.

Go Fernando! :thumbsup:

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Yesterday night, when I was in a Mexican Bar here in Rio, I finally found out the flexible straws I had in mind: flat black, exactly the diameter I needed. :woohoo:

My wife had to work hard to keep me in the bar. 

The good modeller must always be alert for oportunities to colect scrap.










Pictures soon.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I hope you got PLENTY of extra straws in case some get messed up. Yes, that's the reason to have plenty of drinks.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Paulbo said:


> I hope you got PLENTY of extra straws in case some get messed up. Yes, that's the reason to have plenty of drinks.


LOL... The waiter was perplexed by the amount of straws that "we use." The whole time we asked for more. :lol:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Three more pictures.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

These are the material with which I'll build the power cable.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Cutting the pieces. The larger plastic tubes are the hoses and the smaller the internal connections between the three parts of "rubber" accordion hose.



















Tubes painted Tamiya Mica Silver.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Mounting.





































That done, let's now solder the wires to the circuit board. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Almost there.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

WoW !!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Unfortunately, I have no good news. When I was finishing soldering the wires, I may have made some improper movement that caused ​​a short circuit that burned all LEDs. This added to the similar problem I had already had when I finished my PL jupiter 2, proves that I still need a lot of training in electronics.

At this point, it doesn't worth make corrections in this model because it is very small and has several delicate appendages that would break easily if I tried to reopen it (claws, ears, hooks, ...), because the torso is securely glued. The best way forward is to buy another robot (already done) and start from zero.



















I apologize for having you kept following this project to, in the end, come up with this anticlimax. Not to leave you totally frustrated, I put the leds of my head-magnifier behind the "diagnosys unit", just so you have a sense of what might have been. Of course I would deal with the light leakage, but now that doesn't matter. :wave:


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Argh! I'm so sorry to hear about your problems. I'm glad you're going to give it another go instead of abandoning it. I'm looking forward to seeing your new version.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Paul. My first impulse was to reduce everything to bits. But it will be a nice gift to a nephew (I don't have grandsons yet. I'm only 56!! ).


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I hate to hear about your lighting problems. I know things like that are enough to make you want to slam it against the wall. But still I think you done an excellant job with the robot and all. And I look forward to seeing any other builds you may do in the future.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks DCH10664.

My main problem with my builds is planning. The lack of a good planning made things very difficult for me on both projects in which I had lighting problem, because it forced me to solder leds and resistors on more unfavorable conditions than that I would have if I had planned correctly the various mounting steps of the kit.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I've just ordered a kit from CultTVMan. I'll have to wait a month, because Steve doesn't ship to Brazil. I have a Brazilian friend who lives in Houston and make regular trips to Rio, the next being in june. Till there, let's see the Orion and the Voyager. I have to practice on those more simple models before go to the big Irwin Allen Moebius kits.


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Fernando,

A real shame about the LEDs. I really do feel for you as I have had similar things happen to me. Too many connections in really small spaces are a real pain.
I actually had one surface mount LED explode into bits once. 

On the plus side, the drinking straws look great and the overall look of the robot as well as the diagnostic unit is fantastic. 

Look forward to seeing your next effort.

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Alien said:


> Fernando,
> 
> A real shame about the LEDs. I really do feel for you as I have had similar things happen to me. Too many connections in really small spaces are a real pain.
> I actually had one surface mount LED explode into bits once.
> ...


Thanks for the kind words my friend. I'm already making plans to my next Robot and also bought the fantastic Paragrafix photoetch kit.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi Fernando,
I've been following this thread all along, great job, very nice outcome.....:thumbsup: That sucks about the lighting, wished you lived closer, I'd be happy to help you get the lighting fixed, great work anyways.....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Teslabe.

When the fact happened I heard an almost unperceived buzz and, immediately afterwards, the smell of something (or everything) burning out. Then, I knew it. :lol: Yes, it's all right now, but at that moment... 

I was testing each led before soldering and each time I had to turn the power on. Somehow one of the positive wires coming from the leds and yet to be soldered may have closed the contact directly with the positive terminal of the circuit board. Just a 
surmise. :wave:


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> ...When the **** happened...


Just a friendly word of advice, you might want to edit your post to remove that word, as I've done when I quoted you. This is a family forum and "questionable" language is not allowed. I don't have a problem with it, but the moderator will.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Zombie_61 said:


> Just a friendly word of advice, you might want to edit your post to remove that word, as I've done when I quoted you. This is a family forum and "questionable" language is not allowed. I don't have a problem with it, but the moderator will.


Thanks budy. I'm really sorry. My bad.:thumbsup:


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I've just ordered a kit from CultTVMan. I'll have to wait a month, because Steve doesn't ship to Brazil. I have a Brazilian friend who lives in Houston and make regular trips to Rio, the next being in june. Till there, let's see the Orion and the Voyager. I have to practice on those more simple models before go to the big Irwin Allen Moebius kits.


Fernando, have you tried Mega Hobby? I order from them AND Steve. Maybe they ship to Brazil. They always ship well and I never had a problem with them, 
or Steve shipping to Korea.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Liskorea!

Thanks! In fact, I'm used to buy from Megahobby, Paragrafix, Jameco and a bunch of sellers on eBay. Usually, Steve has the better prices on model kits and aftermarket parts, so I decided to wait for my friend to come, because I need to "refresh" my mind building another model.

Steve stoped shipping to Brazil a couple of years ago, because he had problems with the Brazillian Post Service, which was not THAT good, indeed. But the quality has increased a lot and maybe we will have Cult shipping to us again.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks budy. I'm really sorry. My bad.:thumbsup:


No worries here, my friend! I was just looking out for you and trying to keep you from getting into trouble.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Sorry to hear about the end of your build. That is pretty small though to work on, and nothing ventured nothing gained.

Maybe just pop a cheap dollar store led in the back of the console, and block the light leaks? That looks great!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Gareee.

I will built an entire new... diorama? A new robot and maybe a different case to the battery. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks.

Today I received a new PL Robot kit, as well as a photoetch kit from ParaGrafix.

As soon as I manage to finish my current build (a Moebius FV - Voyager) I will start another thread to a new attempt to do the right thing.

Thank you all. :wave:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I look forward to watching your new build. And wish you the best of luck on the wiring. :thumbsup:


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Good luck this time around!


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