# Craftsman 32cc trimmer, no spark



## deadendcustoms (May 19, 2010)

Hey all, ran across this forum while troubleshooting my Craftsman 32cc 2 cycle bushwacker trimmer model number 358.795200. Last year it became hard to start and needed the choke on to run so I disassembled the carb expecting to find it full of varnish. Looked pretty clean so I moved to the fuel lines and filter. Soaked the filter in some seafoam while I inspected the lines and one to the primer bulb. Got that all taken care of and it ran pretty good for a while.

It then started to run for a few minutes and die and wouldn't restart until it cooled down. Eventually it wouldn't start at all, then fall hit so I forgot about it until this spring. I pulled the plug out and checked for spark by grounding it to the engine while pulling the cord and got nothing. The plug was pretty bad so I got a new one and still no spark. I'm in the process of tearing it down to look at the ignition module as that's my next suspect. 

First, does anyone know of a way to test the module? I tried a volt meter across the engine and plug wire while pulling it cord to see it showed anything and the best I could come up with is about .25 volts on my digital meter. I seem to recall that some digital meters may not read fast enough to get an accurate reading on some circuits and I'd imagine a spark pulse would be fairly quick so my .25 volt reading may not be accurate although it does sound awfully low.

Second, in trying to gain access to the module, I have the rear of the engine exposed, but am stuck trying to get the front plastic cover off. I have the outer shell of the clutch off, but can't figure out how to get the weight mechanism off. There is an arrow with the word "off" pointing in the direction of the engine rotation (counter clockwise). There are two half circle cutouts maybe 3/8" diameter I thought maybe a spanner wrench might fit so I held the piston rigid with a cloth wrapped bar and tried turning the clutch assembly a little with no results. I didn't want to put too much force on the piston so I didn't use too much force. Does anyone know if the clutch unthread or is it a press fit that needs to be pulled with a puller or something else?

thanks for any help.

Corey


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Pretty much all you need to do to test the module, is remove from the engine and clean the contact points where it mounts to insure a good ground. Set the air gap from the laminations to the flywheel magnets, isolate the module from the kill circuit and test for spark. If you still have no spark, it's safe to assume the module is bad.


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## deadendcustoms (May 19, 2010)

Thanks for the info, I haven't gotten to the module yet so I wasn't sure what to expect. 

How wide of a gap should the air gap be?

Anyone familiar with or have suggestions on the clutch removal?

thanks again.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

deadendcustoms said:


> Thanks for the info, I haven't gotten to the module yet so I wasn't sure what to expect.
> 
> How wide of a gap should the air gap be?
> 
> ...


Air gap, use a new business card. I think the clutch has a T20 torx screw in the end of the housing. To lock the engine remove the spark plug and fill the cylinder with a small rope, like pullstart rope, don't forget to leave a little hanging out. Have a good one. Geo


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## deadendcustoms (May 19, 2010)

Thanks for the info on the air gap. I used the rope trick and got the clutch assembly off and the gap must have been two or three times that. I thought for sure I'd found the problem, but after cleaning up the all the contacts eliminating the kill wire and setting the gap I still had no spark. A new module should be here on Monday, got lucky as the modules are only $30 for this model. 

thanks again for the help.


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

geogrubb said:


> Air gap, use a new business card.


Insurance agent's business cards are the best.............
:tongue:


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