# Detailing The Chariot



## Ductapeforever

There is a number of things that can be done to spruce up the Chariot, So I'll begin this thread with a few reference pics and some early work on my build.


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## Ductapeforever

Controls, can use a little help. Here is the start of tricking out the cabin.


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## RogueJ

What? No cup holders??!!


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## Ductapeforever

Cup holders come in the Sport Utility Version by Pontiac!


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## RogueJ

Just imagine...The Robinsons could have been rescued if only the Chariot came with "On Star". I bet they go for that option next time.


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## xsavoie

There is a back lit panel for the front control part of the Chariot is already on sale by graphix-man on E-Bay.There is also a fully built Chariot for sale on E-BAY.Must be a fast builder considering that the Chariot kit just got out.


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## john_trek

That fully built Chariot on e-bay is "pro-built". 

Well, whoever he is, he's very fast and sloppy. That "pro" got a number of painting steps incorrect, or skipped over them entirely (such as the inner framework of the canopy). 

The best part is the rear hatch springs are on the outside! :woohoo:

Heck, if I had skipped so many things I would be done by now also.


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## toyroy

RogueJ said:


> Just imagine...The Robinsons could have been rescued if only the Chariot came with "On Star"...


:lol: That is, unless an alien carjacked it.


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## idMonster

After getting to the halfway point on my Chariot I have some observations about color and modifications to the cabin that I'll do on my next one.

Color: That rectangular support for the solar panel on the cargo rack should be aluminum, not orange like the rest of the rack: http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/Chariot/chariot12.jpg

Seatbelts appear to be grey w/aluminum buckles: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/...ariot/ChariotSeatBely-GreyWithSilverBuckl.jpg

The cushions on the side benches, parts 6 & 8 are dark grey, not black. This can be clearly seen in the 2nd season episode "Space Circus" (you can view the entire episode in HD at hulu.com)

Scanner - I'm going with medium grey with an aluminum scanner barrel instead of overall metallic grey - I think these photos show a non-metallic finish on the body of the scanner and a metallic finish on the engine cover: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/ChariotScannerFrontView.jpg & http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/PDVD_008.jpg

The large knob on the upper right of the scanner is black with a shiny silver base ring and maybe a red arrow on the black part: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/PDVD_004.jpg


Radar Antenna and Support - Grey metallic dish w/aluminum support as opposed to overall flat black: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/Chariot20w-kids.jpg

Interior Fixes:

The scanner should be mounted on a U-shaped support and grab handles added to the side: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/ChariotScannerFrontView.jpg

The rear of the scanner should be closed up with sheet or strip plastic and that weird handle-like thing should be converted to a display screen: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/DisplayScreenAtRearOfScannera.jpg

The scanner barrel and flange are far too small - they should take up nearly the entire circular depression on the front of the scanner. In addition, there is a cap of some kind about an inch down the barrel that has white writing on it: http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/PDVD_004.jpg

Finally, I dont like the way the driver & passenger seats are not centered on the footwells if you install the Driver & Passenger risers, 14 & 15; and the front sidewalls, 7 & 9, as intended. This means that the driver's seat is also offset to the side from the steering levers. I find this configuration unlikely and I will trim the top of the sidewalls so that their bottom edges dont intrude on the dootwells and remove the locating pins from the risers and center them on the footwells.

As always, YMMV 

Gordon


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## AJ-1701

^^ :thumbsup:There are some good tips fro when mine turns up and I start it. 

Thanks for the heads up.


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## John P

I've been told by a friend that the exterior is not orange, but actually bright blood-red.
Anybody else have such evidence?


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## Thor1956

idMonster has some good points for coloring ...

Also there are some very good exterior and interior shots available in the 1st Episode, 2nd Season ""Blast Off Into Space".

As previously mentioned in other threads, there are light gray snap-on covers on the inside of the upper curved windows and curtains that cross the interior from side to side just behind the drivers seat and just forward of the robots pedestal; the rader antenna dish is either steel or aluminum with either black or gunmetal dish frames on the rear of the dish. The Radar Dish support is aluminum with a black/dark gray goose-neck.

The Solar Antenna support is aluminum.

On the front of the Scanner above the engine housing the buttons/knobs are (as looking at the scanner): left side, orange; right side, green; lower two, light blue; just below the barrel of the scanner are two lights: left side, green; right side, red. The large knob on the upper right of the Scanner has an aluminum bezel w/ what appear to be range markings on the upper half and a gray arrow shaped knob (this is probably a 2nd Season touch-up in color). Scanner barrel and mounting flange are aluminum, flat black "lens cap(?)" about 1" inside the barrel, and there is a silver switch between the lights. 

For those into to super-detailing, the writing on the Scanner "lens cap" is: "IMPORTANT Remove Before Use" There is other text, but I can't read it ...


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## RogueJ

You might check out the other thread about "Chariot painting solutions". There are some interesting links and info there.

Rogue


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## toyroy

Thor1956 said:


> ...For those into to super-detailing, the writing on the Scanner "lens cap" is: "IMPORTANT Remove Before Use" There is other text, but I can't read it ...


Probably says "Made in Japan. Patent Pending."


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## starseeker2

idmonster: that's one of the best posts I've seen on Hobbytalk. I just wish everybody would provide references the way you did. Love the photo of the Chariot with the girls. I'd seen it somewhere before but totally lost it over time. Seriously, great post.


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## starseeker2

idMonster said:


> The cushions on the side benches, parts 6 & 8 are dark grey, not black. This can be clearly seen in the 2nd season episode "Space Circus" (you can view the entire episode in HD at hulu.com)


Even a medium dark grey.
I never noticed before - in all the color photos, the Chariots seats are orange/red, while the rest of the interior red trim is a much deeper red. Ref: your picture with the girls above plus 
http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/Chariot/chariot19.jpg


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## RSN

starseeker2 said:


> Even a medium dark grey.
> I never noticed before - in all the color photos, the Chariots seats are orange/red, while the rest of the interior red trim is a much deeper red. Ref: your picture with the girls above plus
> http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/Chariot/chariot19.jpg


I hope the horse is not dead yet on this one. I scanned a photo I have of the Chariot from the first color episode. I checked the colors in my Paint Shop program and found some interesting things. The drill head and the case behind it show straigt up red. The interior of the Chariot door registers much closer to orange. There is a significant difference, so much so that I will paint mine much more orange than red.

Color is very subjective and will vary from photo to photo, what won't change is value. There is a definite value change between the drill and the Chariot.


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## john_trek

Keep in mind also that changes in lighting of a particular scene or episode, and how the film has aged, will effect the color as it appears on screen. 

Another example of the confusing nature of orange and red on the TV is the Spindrift from Land of the Giants. Most people when asked will say that the Spindrift is red. And in some shots it sure looks it. But in others it appears more of an orange. It was in reality an orange color. 

I painted my Chariot using International Orange. The larger surfaces indeed look orange in normal room lighting. But the handrails and ladder appear more of a reddish hue. 

It comes as no surprise to me that in different photos and screen caps that the color of the chariot keeps changing. I'd be surprised if it didn't.


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## starseeker2

Interesting. I tried your picture in Photoshop CS but sampling is really difficult. depending on where I sample from I get colors ranging from oranges to browns on the Chariot, luggage, drill, Judy's clothes. They all have in common that all of them at least at some point contain a Toyo 0113 color, I think it was, whatever that is. I tried color sampling with the Seaview, too, and just didn't get anything that would give me anything definitive. I'll try PaintShop - I think I've got it here - but in the end I'm just going to go by what I see.
Edit: started to play with it but then I noticed other colors - Don's face, the interior color of the back door, what part of the drill or luggage do you want to sample from? etc - and there's just too much going on in the lighting and reflections and no doubt saturation and balance of film to even tell what color Don is.


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## John P

Judy's clothes....
Mmmmm.


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## Ductapeforever

More details and photos later today , added individual bench seat cushions, laser rifle rack, scanner face details, halon fire bottles, engine compartment, top canopy enhancements. Just completed these, too tired to function but will include photo's in the next few hours.


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## Thor1956

toyroy said:


> Probably says "Made in Japan. Patent Pending."


LOL ... either that or "Made in China. No Patent Required, Just Lead Based Paint."


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## Ductapeforever

More in progress shots of added details, as promised in previous post.
More to come...


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## starseeker2

Wow, you're doing a very beautiful job of this. 
Sliding doors shown in studio blueprints? Please post!


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## Ductapeforever

Starseeker2,
I was referencing the drawers under the bench seats and robot interface mount shown in your scetches from the studio prints.


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## Ductapeforever

It is my intention to add a working upper dome hatch by constructing new slides from Evergreen "C" channel.


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## falcon49xxxx

John P said:


> I've been told by a friend that the exterior is not orange, but actually bright blood-red.
> Anybody else have such evidence?


No.And where did your friend get this info?


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## gaetan

The photos I just sent to Carson Dyle tend to indicate the same thing John. The color looks more like fire engine red.

Gaétan


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## djnick66

The old Aurora kit dating back to the shows original airing says the trim is red. Models showed red until the Johnny Lightning die cast showed orange trim.


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## falcon49xxxx

I think you will have a hard time convincing any one that it is not orange.alexander


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## Carson Dyle

gaetan said:


> The photos I just sent to Carson Dyle tend to indicate the same thing John. The color looks more like fire engine red.
> 
> Gaétan


Well,for some reason my photo bank isn't allowing me to upload images. First time this has ever happened. 

Sorry to have wasted your time Gaétan, but you might want to explore another image posting avenue.


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## starseeker2

I'm convinced that it's not orange. I'm convinced that the seats are orange-ish but that the perfect match for the Chariot trim is the red color I keep seeing on only new Honda Civics. 

Ok, those were just opening-under-bench-top-... well, not drawers as in the kind that slide open but now I can't think of anything better to call them either. What DO you call the doors on bench top seats?? Time to watch some New Yankee Workshop tapes.


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## Thor1956

starseeker2 said:


> I'm convinced that it's not orange. I'm convinced that the seats are orange-ish but that the perfect match for the Chariot trim is the red color I keep seeing on only new Honda Civics.
> 
> Ok, those were just opening-under-bench-top-... well, not drawers as in the kind that slide open but now I can't think of anything better to call them either. What DO you call the doors on bench top seats?? Time to watch some New Yankee Workshop tapes.


Uh ... I'm not sure what they would be called on the Chariot, but they're called storage bins on ski boats ...


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## starseeker2

Carson Dyle said:


> Well,for some reason my photo bank isn't allowing me to upload images. First time this has ever happened.
> 
> Sorry to have wasted your time Gaétan, but you might want to explore another image posting avenue.


Gaétan: Sent you a pm, if you want to try e mailing them to me and I can try to post them.


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## Ductapeforever

I have found over the years that texture, I/E surface detail added to larger areas, be it panel lines, trim, rivets, weld seams, etc. once painted and weathered, adds an extra level of realism. Although not nesscessarily cannonical or true to the subject, the benefit is interest focused on the details, assesories such as tools, a coffee cup, clip board, pencils, food items, books, photos, magazines, and other personal items greatly increase the level of realism. This is a personal preference of mine and may not be the look you are after, but I felt some of you may be interested.


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## drewid142

WOW. Fantastic. Love it.


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## Lou Dalmaso

DTF,
I love your attention to detail and you're right, even if it may not be canon, it adds just a spark of realism. 'cept that mic cord..at the scale you have, it would be like a vaccuum cleaner hose. take some thinner gauge wire and coil it around a straight pin. that might be closer


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## Ductapeforever

Thanks Lou, I thought the same thing, and have already used a smaller gage.


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## X15-A2

The color of the chassis, track cross-frames and engine housing under the nose are all Thiokol snow-cat "orange". The studio didn't repaint these areas, they just used them as they came from the factory. The new cab had a color-matched paint job. Heck, the studio probably just bought touch-up paint directly from Thiokol. Personally, I think this is where I.A. first saw this color and liked it so much that he used it throughout his later efforts (or the A.D. liked it, whichever).

Somebody needs to to a ski resort and get a color sample off one of them and we'll have an exact match.


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## djnick66

Many photos do show a distinct contrast between orange like the seats and red like the chassis. Since you can see both colors in one photo it indicates two colors.


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## X15-A2

The seats were not painted (at least, not those in the rear cabin), they were molded in orange plastic which would not be an exact match for the Thiokol painted items.


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## starseeker2

While I will agree with you that the Chariot had red treads, I'm going to disagree that the body trim matched the Thiokol orange. I don't know how well it will show up in the post, but it seems to me that the chassis is a red orange and the interior trim is a deeper, purer red, no orange in the color to my eye at all. Again, this is a poor capture, but someone else has posted some captures that are clearer. That I can't find. Sigh.


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## Ductapeforever

WARNING: Do not attempt this modification unless you have the skill and experience to handle it. Serious irreparable damage to your kit may result. Extream care must be excercised cementing these modifications to the clear canopy. The slightest mistep will cause permanent scaring to the crystal clear parts.

I have added tracks to allow the Hatch dome to slide freely. Use Cement Sparingly!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Thor1956

DTF,

Is that Evergreen or Plastruc C-Channel you used for the bubble tracks?

Also, Testors Clear would be a good choice for anything being added to the canopy ...


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## Thor1956

starseeker2 said:


> While I will agree with you that the Chariot had red treads, I'm going to disagree that the body trim matched the Thiokol orange. I don't know how well it will show up in the post, but it seems to me that the chassis is a red orange and the interior trim is a deeper, purer red, no orange in the color to my eye at all. Again, this is a poor capture, but someone else has posted some captures that are clearer. That I can't find. Sigh.


I can guarantee that the proper color is International Orange.

I've been reviewing a few of the LIS color episodes and when you compare the orange that Will is wearing with the color of the Chariot, there is virtually no difference in color.

I'll post screen caps as soon as I can. If someone has the DVD collection, and can get screen caps, take a look at "Blast Off Into Space" (1st episode, 2nd Season).

Also, the floor and side cushions are about the same shade of gray. The chairs are the molded plastic orange ... about one shade lighter than the Chariot body.

I'll be able to post screen caps in a week or so ... had to spring for a full version of PowerDVD ...


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## djnick66

starseeker2 said:


> While I will agree with you that the Chariot had red treads, I'm going to disagree that the body trim matched the Thiokol orange. I don't know how well it will show up in the post, but it seems to me that the chassis is a red orange and the interior trim is a deeper, purer red, no orange in the color to my eye at all. Again, this is a poor capture, but someone else has posted some captures that are clearer. That I can't find. Sigh.


I think its a model anyway not the full size vehicle


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## djnick66

Ductapeforever said:


> WARNING: Do not attempt this modification unless you have the skill and experience to handle it. Serious irreparable damage to your kit may result. Extream care must be excercised cementing these modifications to the clear canopy. The slightest mistep will cause permanent scaring to the crystal clear parts.
> 
> I have added tracks to allow the Hatch dome to slide freely. Use Cement Sparingly!!!!!!!!!!!!


Use Gator's Grip Glue. Its all I ever use on clear parts and photo-etch anymore. It is a high tack, high viscocity acrylic glue. It dries crystal clear and is water soluable while still wet. When dry its VERY tough. You can glue tiny photo-etch parts in place and the when the glue is dry pick the model up by the part. It has a tiny amount of flex too, so if you use it on little parts that stick up, like antennas, there is less a chance of snapping it off.

http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html

You can buy with confidence. Gator Masks have been around a while and are top quality. The glue is all the rage for aircraft and armor modelling these days. They also take Pay Pal. I got my bottle in just a couple days.


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## Ductapeforever

Thor1956 said:


> DTF,
> 
> Is that Evergreen or Plastruc C-Channel you used for the bubble tracks?
> 
> Also, Testors Clear would be a good choice for anything being added to the canopy ...


Either brand of "C" channel will work equally well. Plastruct I believe has a larger selection of shapes, sheet, strip, and rod stock. Depends on availability in your area.


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## Ductapeforever

djnick66,
Thanks, I already use Gator. I stress caution only because some modelers may not have access to some of the specialty glues. Testors liquid cement will provide a permanent, strong bond, as this is widely available and commonly used. As I have indicated, it can be used with confidence, with extream caution,...great skill and care!!!!!!!!!!


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## Carson Dyle

djnick66 said:


> Use Gator's Grip Glue. Its all I ever use on clear parts and photo-etch anymore. It is a high tack, high viscocity acrylic glue. It dries crystal clear and is water soluable while still wet.


Once cured, how is this stuff to sand?


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## djnick66

Why would you want to sand it? You don't want to get it all over the surface of the model. Like I said, its a bit rubbery. Clean it off the model with a wet paint brush first.


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## Carson Dyle

If excess adhesive should seep from a bonded seam while curing I'd like to be able to file/ sand/ buff it out without creating a gummy mess on the substrate. Fully cured two-part epoxy will allow me to do this.


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## djnick66

I see what you are saying but then for clear parts and tiny photo etch parts, whcih is what the stuff is made for, you arent going to be doing a lot of sanding anyway. Of course you can just peel it off... its white glue more or less. It does not attack plastic, just sticks to it.


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## Carson Dyle

Gotcha.

I'll have to pick up a bottle and experiment with it. You can never have too many adhesion options.


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## Ductapeforever

Worked on interior details today, mostly trim stuff, although I added the work table shown in the studio drawings. I don't remember ever seeing it onscreen but it adds a nice touch. Also added the ring frame to the gun hatch bubble, and closed cell cushions for the bench seats. The interior is almost complete just a few more touch-ups and it's ready for paint. I know what you're thinking...they didn't have MRE's and that style of plastic 5 gal. water can, in the 60's ...but wait my dear reader , remember the show time setting was in THE FUTURE ! At least to us at the time. The Jupiter 2 didn't launch untill we are told ...Oct 16, 1997, and of course we did have those items by then. Isn't time fun, boys and girls?


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## Ductapeforever

Went to the local railroad model store for accessories for a diorama with the chariot, and found a wealth of figures in the LGB garden scale line that gave me a million ideas. In their Walther catalog I found suitcases and luggage, tools, and a host of other wonderful pieces. Go check out your local railroad model store...you won't regret it.


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## Hunch

If ductapeforevers' thumbnails in post #21 are of the actual chariot, then the inside is definitely a deeper color orange than the outside, worn as it is.


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## Ductapeforever

The pics in post #21 are of a 1301WA Thiokol Spryte Snowcat on which the chariot is based, and that is Thiokol Orange.


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## Thor1956

Ductapeforever said:


> More in progress shots of added details, as promised in previous post.
> More to come...


Ok DTF ... I've been doing some research and still can't figure where you got the brass grills for the intakes. Is it leftovers from a previous project or a special order?

Please give a few details ... ?


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## Ductapeforever

The grill material I used is from a photoetch set by Verlinden for a 1/35th scale M-113 of the Israel Defence Force, as I did not use all the brass grillwork, I had leftovers.


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## Thor1956

DTF,

Thanks for the info ... I guess I'll just to wait for the after market PEs ...

Dan


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## djnick66

You can get all kinds of suitable mesh for inserts like the Chariot. Aber, Eduard, Trimaster, etc. sell just sheets of etched mesh (and also tread plate). Or you can find them as spare parts like the previously mentioned Verlinden Zelda Toga armor set. There are also a lot of good plastic mesh pieces. I have some tight woven metal screen from a Tamiya T-62 Russian tank that I will use.

If you cut open the kit radiator screen you should add something behind the mesh like a black painted plastic rectangle.


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## Thor1956

Thanks for the idea DJ!!! I must be getting senile 

I forgot that Hobbylink sells PE Mesh ...

In case anyone is interested, here's the link http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mcr/mcr90802.htm

Dan


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## djnick66

Woah thats way too expensive. Don't order that $25 piece unless you can avoid it. You should be able to get something in the $8-$12 range. Thats a rip off.


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## gareee

There's gotta be something small at an electronic store, or a lowe's or home depot...

Couldn't you just buy a home screen repair kit, and lightly spray paint the screen brass?


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## djnick66

Hmmm I had amended my post and listed an Eduard mesh set thats only $7.95. Eduard offers a bunch of photo-etch mesh in hex, rhomboid, square and diamond patterns.

You could use the home repair screen or other screens. Some are just way out of scale. Or they unravel when you cut them, etc.

Some thick nylon or plastic mesh also works well. I am always on the look out for things like bridal veil, etc. I try to hit the local park the day after Easter to find plastic mesh that was used to wrap candy, etc.


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## Thor1956

djnick66 said:


> Hmmm I had amended my post and listed an Eduard mesh set thats only $7.95. Eduard offers a bunch of photo-etch mesh in hex, rhomboid, square and diamond patterns.


What's the URL for Eduard? I tried Googling everything I could think of and still can't find it ...


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## Admiral Nelson

Ductapeforever said:


> The Jupiter 2 didn't launch untill we are told ...Oct 16, 1999....


October 16, 1997. Is the rest of your history this faulty, sir?


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## djnick66

DO NOT buy direct from Eduard. I forget their URL its somethnig like eduard.cz. They have some insane $29 blanket minimum shipping on something that anyone else would mail in an envelope for $5. Squadron Mail Order (www.squadron.com) carries Eduard. They are about the most common aftermarket brand in the world. Eduard's web site is useful for looking at the instructions and actual parts for their etch set. Unfortunately their site also has the lamest search engine. You have to sort through a zillion hits to find the set you want. It would help if the site was faster. Just be patient...


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## Ductapeforever

Admiral Nelson said:


> October 16, 1997. Is the rest of your history this faulty, sir?


Sorry to ruffle feathers, typographical error! 1997 is the correct year.


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## Ronster

*K&s*

You can also find an interesting selection of photoetch mesh screen and girders from K&S Metals (www.specialshapes.com or wwwksmetals.com). I find their stuff in the doll house section of the hobby shop. I've also seen them in R/C departments. FYI- Ron


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## Thor1956

djnick66 said:


> DO NOT buy direct from Eduard. I forget their URL its somethnig like eduard.cz. They have some insane $29 blanket minimum shipping on something that anyone else would mail in an envelope for $5. Squadron Mail Order (www.squadron.com) carries Eduard.





Ronster said:


> You can also find an interesting selection of photoetch mesh screen and girders from K&S Metals (www.specialshapes.com or wwwksmetals.com). I find their stuff in the doll house section of the hobby shop. I've also seen them in R/C departments. FYI- Ron


Thanks Guys!

I found what I was looking for.


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## scifimodelfan

I love your model so far. I hope mine comes out half as good as yours does and I can't wait to see more pics. Thank you for posting your pictures for all to see, they are terrific and am watching your thread here with eager anticipation before starting mine. Take care and again thank you.

Jim


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## teslabe

Thor, I think I found the same sheet "Ductape" used, just by some strange chance and only paid $3.00 for the sheet.... My local "Mom & Pop" hobby store had no idea what it was. From it, I got six complete grills plus one upper grill. I took two I needed for my two kits and will offer my leftovers for anyone in the group that would like the use them. Just send me an email and I'll give you my address, just send me a self addressed, stamped envelope and you've got one set.


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## Ductapeforever

Teslabe,
Good score on the Verlinden stuff, I have used this set for so many subjects I had just enough to complete my Chariot grills. I wish I had leftovers as I would have loved to share with as many of you guys as I could. Alack and Alass,... perhaps I can contribute in the near future another way.


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## Ductapeforever

Hey guys, YOU WON"T BELIEVE WHAT I WAS STUPID ENOUGH TO TRY! My nerves are frayed! And I wasn't thinking straight. I cannot believe my good fortune, lady luck was with me, or the angels, or both. I successfully separated the rear door glass from the main canopy on the Chariot. I used a manual fine razor saw blade in an X-acto handle and some very careful deliberate slow cuts down the middle of the molded frame. The surgery was very tedious and time consuming but I got through the side cuts in about thirty minutes. The cut across the top was the most delicate. I gently heated the blade with a butane torch and plunged the blade through the clear plastic where I intend to put one of two hinges. I knew the clear styrene would roll back on itself with minimal damage to the surrounding frame, allowing for a straight cut with the saw. I had no cracking, and no scratches, as I taped the clear parts on both sides with two inch masking tape to protect them. Needless to say...my nerves are shot, however I can't wait to build a new styrene strip frame to put the clear glass in . Please kids...DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME. I was insane to try it, I very easily could have ruined a valuable model kit. I need a drink!


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## Thor1956

teslabe said:


> Thor, I think I found the same sheet "Ductape" used, just by some strange chance and only paid $3.00 for the sheet.... My local "Mom & Pop" hobby store had no idea what it was. From it, I got six complete grills plus one upper grill. I took two I needed for my two kits and will offer my leftovers for anyone in the group that would like the use them. Just send me an email and I'll give you my address, just send me a self addressed, stamped envelope and you've got one set.


COOL!!

E-mail on the way ... 


Many Thanks!!!!!!!!!


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## teslabe

Ductapeforever, Very nice work.......


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## toyroy

One detail on the glass canopy which bothers me, and I haven't entirely figured how best to deal with: the extra plastic for the upper side door hinges. I can try filing and sanding them flush, and then polishing. Or, perhaps its just better to replace those segments- even though they're curved. Any suggestions?


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## scifimodelfan

Looks great.....


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## scifimodelfan

*Chariot Grill*



teslabe said:


> Thor, I think I found the same sheet "Ductape" used, just by some strange chance and only paid $3.00 for the sheet.... My local "Mom & Pop" hobby store had no idea what it was. From it, I got six complete grills plus one upper grill. I took two I needed for my two kits and will offer my leftovers for anyone in the group that would like the use them. Just send me an email and I'll give you my address, just send me a self addressed, stamped envelope and you've got one set.




Sent an email, thanks


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## starseeker2

Ductape - I got nervous just reading about what you did. Congrats!! That is going to be one beautiful model!


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## Lou Dalmaso

me too, with the e-mail sending


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## Ductapeforever

Having recovered from shock after cutting out the clear rear door on the Chariot I began the task of building the replacement framework with Evergreen strip and rod stock. The tailgate I decided to leave in the upright position , although cutting it out would not be difficult at this point. I will install working hinges, and support pistons to prop the door open with , and a latch/stop to keep the door from swinging into the passenger compartment. I am very near completion on the construction phase on both the Chariot and Space Pod. I will soon be able to mix a large batch of orange paint and can begin airbrushing. (a little touch of humor- a drink cup and holder , ...oh come on it was worth a chuckle!)


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## Steve244

Ductapeforever said:


> Having recovered from shock after cutting out the clear rear door on the Chariot I began the task of building the replacement framework with Evergreen strip and rod stock. The tailgate I decided to leave in the upright position , although cutting it out would not be difficult at this point. I will install working hinges, and support pistons to prop the door open with , and a latch/stop to keep the door from swinging into the passenger compartment. I am very near completion on the construction phase on both the Chariot and Space Pod. I will soon be able to mix a large batch of orange paint and can begin airbrushing. (a little touch of humor- a drink cup and holder , ...oh come on it was worth a chuckle!)


made me laugh! when will the '97 model hit showrooms?


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## starseeker2

How the devil did you make those toggle switches??? I have to make dozens (hundreds?) for my 1/24 LM. 
By the way, in case I didn't mention it before (at least several times) that's beautiful work.


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## j2man

Wow, are you planning on letting all of us send our canopies to you for that kind of detailing? They don't let me play with torches, or sharp objects for that matter.


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## Ductapeforever

Toggle switches are made useing styrene disks punched out of .010 mil strip useing a Waldron punch set for the base , drilled with a pinvise in the center and stretched sprue cut to length for the toggle shafts.


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## toyroy

What was the "function" of those toggle switches?


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## Ductapeforever

toyroy said:


> What was the "function" of those toggle switches?


Good question, they can be seen in the episode "Space Primevals" briefly, I'm certainly no expert, I could see them so I put 'em in.


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## Ductapeforever

Today I concentrated on the drive and running gear. I realized early on that I couldn't replicate everything 100% because of the oversized Drive sprocket and wheels so I had to settle on something inbetween. I think it has the right look, so I'm going ahead with both sides. I added the floor to attach the battery box and switch for the lights.


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## drewid142

Mr Tape, sir. Your modifications are astoundingly beautiful! Someday... when I actually build mine... I plan to copy every detail of your masterfull work... or at least attempt to. Magnificent! I can't wait to see these details painted up! Trailer hitch! YEAH! Nice Touch!


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## Thor1956

Very Nice DTFE!!!!

The only thing I would change is the trailer hitch ... everything I've seen on the DVDs appears to be a pintal ...

Dan


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## Ductapeforever

drewid142 said:


> Mr Tape, sir. Your modifications are astoundingly beautiful! Someday... when I actually build mine... I plan to copy every detail of your masterfull work... or at least attempt to. Magnificent! I can't wait to see these details painted up! Trailer hitch! YEAH! Nice Touch!


Thank you kind sir, I can't wait for your figures and accessories to finish it off with...now somebody do a diorama base and I'll be a happy camper.


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## Ductapeforever

Preliminary photo test for Don and The Robot.


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## LGFugate

I'm not trying to be a wise-acre, but Don's clothes aren't right. He looks more suited for a visit to a bar than trying to survive on an alien planet. Shouldn't he be wearing the long-sleeved v-neck turtleneck shirt they wore in all three sesaons?

Larry


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## djnick66

LGFugate said:


> I'm not trying to be a wise-acre, but Don's clothes aren't right. He looks more suited for a visit to a bar than trying to survive on an alien planet. Shouldn't he be wearing the long-sleeved v-neck turtleneck shirt they wore in all three sesaons?
> 
> Larry


Er I think thats just a stock, unmodifed figure still...


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

DT,
what are you using to punch out all of tohse discs?

or are you cutting round stock into slices?

truely inspiring work:thumbsup:


----------



## john_trek

LGFugate said:


> I'm not trying to be a wise-acre, but Don's clothes aren't right. He looks more suited for a visit to a bar than trying to survive on an alien planet. Shouldn't he be wearing the long-sleeved v-neck turtleneck shirt they wore in all three sesaons?
> 
> Larry


Actually, it is accurate, but for a little known attempt at a Lost in Space revival that CBS briefly considered in the late 70s. The concept never got past a few cast photos and storyboard pitches. 

In order to appeal to the teenage girls of the 70s, Henry Winkler was going to be cast as Major Donald West, but his character would be refered to as "The Donze"


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## j2man

No that's Mark Goddard in the skating movie he did. He played a roller boogie thug or something. "Hey Robot" take this silver case of cash and give it to John. Judy is now mine."


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## Ductapeforever

The figure of Don is a Jimmy Flintstone figure as yet unmodified. Just put some paint on him to see if I liked him. I will resculpt him to a more recognizable configuration.


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## j2man

Oh now Duct, we wuz just joshin u a bit.


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## djnick66

You know the Jimmy Flintstone Miss Speed Shift makes a good Judy. You need to rework her hair (has big Peg Bundy hair) but otherwise her outfit, boots, etc are pretty good as is. The pose is very much like the big JF Judy he did for the Aurora robot.


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## toyroy

Ductapeforever said:


> The figure of Don is a Jimmy Flintstone figure as yet unmodified. Just put some paint on him to see if I liked him. I will resculpt him to a more recognizable configuration.


The leather jacket looks like it could easily be made into a parka.


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## scifimodelfan

I am amazed at the detail that you are doing. Thank you very much for this. When I get around to doing mine all these tips that you are giving and the detailed pics will be a great help to us all. Thanks again.

Jim


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## AJ-1701

Lou Dalmaso said:


> DT,
> what are you using to punch out all of tohse discs?
> 
> or are you cutting round stock into slices?
> 
> truely inspiring work:thumbsup:



I too am kind of curious how you did them... I just have to say that the detail you are doing is *amazing*!!! :woohoo: I'm not yet ready to do mine yet but when I do I don't think I'll go as full on as you have I tend just to tweek things to what Iknow and think a model needs. On saying that though let me say to you that what you've done is truly an excellent source of insperation for hacks and kit bashers like myself 

Can't wait to see the finished goods :thumbsup:

Cheers,
Alec.


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## Ductapeforever

I use a punch set made by Waldron Products to make the disks , they go from 1/16th of an inch up to almost 1/4 inch. I just use different thicknesses of sheet stock.


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## John P

LGFugate said:


> He looks more suited for a visit to a bar than trying to survive on an alien planet.


This _IS_ Mark Goddard we're talking about, after all. Ever been at a convention with him? He's easy to find.


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## Thor1956

Ductapeforever said:


> I use a punch set made by Waldron Products to make the disks , they go from 1/16th of an inch up to almost 1/4 inch. I just use different thicknesses of sheet stock.


DT,

Where did you get the punches ... was a LHS or on-line?

I could really use a set of good punches like that ...

Dan


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## Ductapeforever

Waldron Model Products are available online, Fine Scale Modeler runs ads all the time.
Check it out here : Caution....they're spendy!
http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/tools/wmp/tool_wmp_punch.shtml


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## toyroy

You can make your own punch and die using a drill bit.


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## LGFugate

Sorry, DT, didn't know he wasn't the final version. Maybe he's dressed for a date with Judy....

Larry


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## veedubb67

toyroy said:


> You can make your own punch and die using a drill bit.


How's that?


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## djnick66

You can use the back end of the bit as the punch... not sure what you do for the die... Usually a tap or punch is a bit more robust with just a pointey tip.

Several companies sell small punch and die kits... Waldron is one. Historex also sells one IIRC.


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## toyroy

djnick66 said:


> You can use the back end of the bit as the punch... not sure what you do for the die... Usually a tap or punch is a bit more robust with just a pointey tip...


Grind the back end of the bit flat(you can use a Dremel tool w/ a cutoff disk.) It doesn't matter how small in diameter the bit is, since you'll chuck it up in a pin vice or drill chuck for the actual punching. Use the drill bit to drill a hole in some sheet metal. If you have a drill press or lathe, you're now in business. 

If not, get some lexan or other clear sheet at the local builder's supply, and some washers or spacers, and make up a punching jig. This way is not only cheaper, but you can make a punch from _any_ size drill bit. And still use the drill bit to drill.


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## rondenning

THANKS teslabe!!!!!:thumbsup:
The mesh pieces arrived in yesterdays mail, and they look great. :woohoo:
This mesh will look awesome on the Chariot kit, I hope to have time to start the Chariot build soon(just starting on the Pod now).
I finished the Robot from the Chariot so he can help with the Pod and Chariot builds.(I figured he helped Don assemble the Chariot enough that he can at least act as an Advisor on the builds!) LOL!!!!
Thanks again Kent - you the man!!!
Ron:devil:


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## Lou Dalmaso

Incredible detail on the robot, there!
there's one thing I think they missed the boat on, tho,
the bubble lifter should be ribbed like the arms and legs (smaller scale obviously)


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## rondenning

Thanks Lou!
This is pretty much your out of the box build.
I thought about cutting the ribs into the bubble lifter with a modeling file, and decided to wait and do that on the next one (after practicing on a styrene rod and not being happy with the end results).
The only change I made on this one was removeing the locator-pin molded in the tread section so the Robot can turn at the waist. I put a small magnet into the torso bottom and one in the tread section so he will stay together, and still be able to turn at the waist. I will also put another magnet inside the "box" that his torso goes on inside the Chariot, so he can be posed anyway I like, even in the Chariot.:thumbsup:
Thanks for the kind words!
Ron:devil:


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## teslabe

Hi Ron, you are very welcome....... We will need to see pictures of your Chariot when you finish...... Great work on the robot..... As far as the bubble lifter goes, I will be using a small spring, painted flat black. I will try to post some pictures soon, I'm still working on my Seaview, the Pod is still in the box.......


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## toyroy

Found @ yahoo Lost in Space Props group:


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## idMonster

Got a screencap of the top of the chariot showing that the exterior color of the roof panel over the driver is orange and it looks like the floor of the chariot is a light grey.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/LIS Chariot/ChariotRoofOrangeFloorGrey.jpg


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## gareee

good cap!


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## starseeker2

Except that the Chariot body is silver. 

Success! Haven't had much time to model lately, and what little I squeeze in is mostly devoted to the Seaview. But I tried my experiment in putting the Chariot back together, and even if you're not doing anything so insanely radical, this method will work even if you have to replace a panel, make a new door, make a sliding dome, make a 1/12 scale Chariot, etc. I used .040 MBS clear copolyester, a couple square feet for a whole couple $ at your local hobbyshop. I used .060 Evergreen channel. Tenax plastic welder. And a wide tip Staedler red PERMANENT marking pen. 

The thing about clear plastic is that it's clear. That means you can see the frame that it's attached into. The frame of the Chariot was red inside. You can't paint the inside of the channel frame red because you can't form a strong cement bond over paint, even with ca, which doesn't form a strong bond with plastic at the best of times. You have to stain the channel red. After trying various, I tried the Staedler marking pen. Two quick swipes and let dry for a couple days. 

This morning I cemented in a cut piece of the clear copoly. Lightly sand the edges of the clear and test fit before you fit it into place. A single brush stroke of Tenax melts (?) the ink very slightly but it doesn't run and the channel stays evenly red inside. The Tenax cements the clear into the channel as well as it cements any plastic joint (very well indeed) and the red inside of the channel looks perfect through the clear plastic edge. And of course the outside edges of the channel can be glued together to form any groupings of clear panels and frames that you want. 

I think Staedler makes an orange pen as well, if you believe the Chariot was orange inside, but if they don't, the red inside the channels will probably look close enough to the red-orange outside. 

Now to put all my Chariot pieces back together again...


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## toyroy

starseeker2 said:


> ...Success!...You can't paint the inside of the channel frame red because you can't form a strong cement bond over paint...You have to stain the channel...


That's neat, how you apparently can get a proper cement weld, to an inked part! :thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Incredible detail on the robot, there!
> there's one thing I think they missed the boat on, tho,
> the bubble lifter should be ribbed like the arms and legs (smaller scale obviously)


Hi Lou, it has taken me some time to get back to my Chariot build but
this is my solution for the "bubble lifter". It's a spring I got in a bag full
of springs from Smith Brother's in So. Cal. The black is just a primer, I
will be painting it a dark gray. Since there is not a lot of lighting I can do
on this kit, I will see how far I can get with the robot. It will be mounted
on the base inside the Chariot so I can pass the O.F. thought it's base and
hide the electronics in the track assy.


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## Lou Dalmaso

purty work, there..you continue to amaze!

ever thought of either putting a blinking LED in the robots' "mouth" or putting a push button switch on the mouth LED to give the illusion of "talking"?

keep 'em coming


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## gareee

Not is a perfect time to scavenge those in dollar stores.. I picked up a alternating red led/yellow led plastic tombstone yesterday, and the lighing section is small, an pops right out of them.

I ended up buying 4 of them, because they looked so useful.

Paint over the yellow one, and you have a flashing red light. Paint over the red one, and you have a flashing yellow light.


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> purty work, there..you continue to amaze!
> 
> ever thought of either putting a blinking LED in the robots' "mouth" or putting a push button switch on the mouth LED to give the illusion of "talking"?
> 
> keep 'em coming


Thank you Lou, again for the very nice words.....
I have a talking B-9 Robot keychain that is going to give up it's life for this build. I will use its sound board and a simple sound activated sw. to drive a orange LED in his chast, it will light when he speaks. The top two hole will have 1.5mm O.F,the smaller holes will be .75mm O.F. and the button for his voice and speaker all will be in the track assy. I'm thinking that the Tow Hook would work fine for a push button sw.


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## toyroy

teslabe said:


> ...it has taken me some time to get back to my Chariot build...


That's really nice, clear photography! :thumbsup:


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## Lou Dalmaso

teslabe,
I'm still taken aback by what a neat job you did in drilling those holes so close together. 

I have one of those keychains. it's a noble death you propose. 

I'm building a Smith and Robot kit right now and I'm thinking of something similar only I'm planning on using the hallmark card that has the robot and theme sound clip.

I picked up a "record your own" dealy at radio shack and have put a couple of very cleanly recorded Smith clips on it. if I can get that to work, I might consider sacrificing one of the ornament sized 'bot I have for the Chariot cause.


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## drmcoy

Teslabe,

You are INSANE!!! Putting those tiny lights in robot!!! What a hoot. I can't wait to see how this looks when completed -- crazy neat.

As long as you are doing this, is it even POSSIBLE to take fiber optic lights and put 5 to 7 fiber strands into the TOP of his clear bubble head? I believe the actual robot had tiny lights that flickered up in the "brain" portion of his bubble. How crazy would THAT be.

At any rate, I look forward to the progress pics of your build -- you must have a steady hand and patience beyond compare to tackle such a project.


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## Lou Dalmaso

MMMMaybe... if you replace the bubble lifter with brass tubing you could posibly get 4 strands up there. but youd have to come up with a way to also house the triangle piece.

verrrry interesting...


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> teslabe,
> I'm still taken aback by what a neat job you did in drilling those holes so close together.
> 
> I have one of those keychains. it's a noble death you propose.
> 
> I'm building a Smith and Robot kit right now and I'm thinking of something similar only I'm planning on using the hallmark card that has the robot and theme sound clip.
> 
> I picked up a "record your own" dealy at radio shack and have put a couple of very cleanly recorded Smith clips on it. if I can get that to work, I might consider sacrificing one of the ornament sized 'bot I have for the Chariot cause.



Hi Lou, thank you again for the encouragement. I love how soft the plastic
is, it makes it so easy to cut and drill. Here are the first set of photos of the
poor robots "devoicing". It's nice that the board has a discrete transistor to 
drive the speaker, I just placed the LED accross the speaker and it lite better then I thought, flashing with the words......


----------



## teslabe

drmcoy said:


> Teslabe,
> 
> You are INSANE!!! Putting those tiny lights in robot!!! What a hoot. I can't wait to see how this looks when completed -- crazy neat.
> 
> As long as you are doing this, is it even POSSIBLE to take fiber optic lights and put 5 to 7 fiber strands into the TOP of his clear bubble head? I believe the actual robot had tiny lights that flickered up in the "brain" portion of his bubble. How crazy would THAT be.
> 
> At any rate, I look forward to the progress pics of your build -- you must have a steady hand and patience beyond compare to tackle such a project.


Thank you, I have been called Insane from time to time......
I think if you use some .25mm fiber it could work, I thought about it but with
what I already have going into the robot I might not have the room for the 
extra electronics. Not much room in the Chariot, just in the track assy.


----------



## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> MMMMaybe... if you replace the bubble lifter with brass tubing you could posibly get 4 strands up there. but youd have to come up with a way to also house the triangle piece.
> 
> verrrry interesting...


Very good idea, Lou. I think you could get 7-10 strands of .25mm fiber up a
tube the size that would look right. Then a spring on the outside like I did
for my bubble lifter.


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## teslabe

toyroy said:


> That's really nice, clear photography! :thumbsup:


Thank you Toyroy.......:wave:


----------



## toyroy

Lou Dalmaso said:


> ...I picked up a "record your own" dealy at radio shack and have put a couple of very cleanly recorded Smith clips on it...


Can you use your Radio Shack dealie to copy the message from one chip to another, w/o a microphone? Or, via your computer?


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## Lou Dalmaso

it has a wired microphone on it, so I just put that up to a speaker and record it "live" there's a 20 sec. max on how much it will record.

could you clip those wires and put an audio input jack there? I dunno


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## AJ-1701

Lou Dalmaso said:


> MMMMaybe... if you replace the bubble lifter with brass tubing you could posibly get 4 strands up there. but youd have to come up with a way to also house the triangle piece.
> 
> verrrry interesting...


The only thing with f/o is if you bend em too tight they fracture and craze up on the radius and then the light wouldn't get thru em. Could you maybe mount a small flashing led sanded down and polished to fit into the triangle piece. Then paint the said triangle and the top of the led with a good coat of silver grey and when its dry drill away the paint on the edge of the triagle sensor. The light from the led would shine through the clear plastic under the paint and out the holes. I did it on my p/l B9 and it came out quite good.

Just a thought...


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## teslabe

If the fiber is plastic, like the O.F. I've been using, A heat gun and a quick
hand, will allow you to make bends,I did some 90deg bends for my robot on some 1.5mm fiber, with the .25mm fiber you need to be very fast with the heat and bending or it will just melt. I will post some pictures when I get home from work tonight.


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> could you clip those wires and put an audio input jack there? I dunno


I'm sure you can, I'd put a 100K potentiometer (linear taper not audio taper) in series with audio input to minimize distortion.


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## teslabe

Here are photos of the plastic O.F. I'm using in my robot. It bends very well
when heated, just be sure and hold the fiber with two hands as it will just 
flop over when you heat it.:freak:


----------



## AJ-1701

teslabe said:


> Here are photos of the plastic O.F. I'm using in my robot. It bend very well
> when heated, just be sure and hold the fiber with two hands as it will just
> flop over when you heat it.:freak:


Very cool. I never stop picking up good tips on here.:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Thank you, AJ.... Your right, I love all the great stuff going on in here. Please post some pictures of how your robot is coming along. I'd like to see how you did the lighting in the bubble. I bet it looks sweet......


----------



## user1127

I'm getting old (older) - personally, I forgot to light up his bubble although I prepped it :freak: ..once glued, forget it...oh well.

http://ivansrctanks.com/Ebay/Robby1.MOV


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## teslabe

user1127 said:


> I'm getting old (older) - personally, I forgot to light up his bubble although I prepped it :freak: ..once glued, forget it...oh well.
> 
> http://ivansrctanks.com/Ebay/Robby1.MOV


Very nice work.......


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## Lou Dalmaso

Let me just say..

DUUUUUUUDE!

now that's cool!


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## drmcoy

WOW! NICE WORK on the lighted robot!!!!!

You guys amaze me.

When you guys make the decision to "light" things up, do you wrestle with where you stop? If you are going through all the headaches of adding lights to the robot, do you consider adding lights to the actual Chariot -- headlights and such -- or even the control panels??

I've been working on my Chariot the past week or two -- even though I have the vinyl templates (from Culttvman) -- I will only be using the orange for the inside...I have decided to use the BARE METAL FOIL to do the outer strips on Chariot frame -- although it is precarious work and handling the tiny strips of foil are somewhat tedious, I believe that, in the long run, it is much easier to use the metal foil rather than apply all those vinyl templates and spray paint the frame strips silver...only time will tell, but I will post pictures once finished.

The thing I like about the metal foil is that it is more forgiving (if you mess up, you simply peel it off). I wish I knew about this stuff 10 years ago.

I have decided that I am likely going to do a straight build of the Chariot kit from box, but am making efforts to get the painting scheme as close as possible...and I will likely buy the figure kit being worked on.

I am curious if one has to actually GLUE the clear "glass" canopy into place or if it will "rest" on top of the chassis -- this way I can display it when done and add the figures later when they become available.


----------



## user1127

Thank you.
As for me...If for a client, I replicate available vids, pics from the show/movie. If for 'experimentation,' I light until I get bored, learning what is possible, and what is not practical to do.
Also (off-topic) an r/c version was scratch built years ago with that 1:16 scale snow cat.


----------



## toyroy

Still hoping for some input on this:



toyroy said:


> One detail on the glass canopy which bothers me, and I haven't entirely figured how best to deal with: the extra plastic for the upper side door hinges. I can try filing and sanding them flush, and then polishing. Or, perhaps its just better to replace those segments- even though they're curved. Any suggestions?





drmcoy said:


> ...I am curious if one has to actually GLUE the clear "glass" canopy into place or if it will "rest" on top of the chassis -- this way I can display it when done and add the figures later when they become available.


The problem is that the lower door hinges are in the lower part of the hull. If you're willing to forego the working doors, or you can come up with a way to relocate the lower door hinges, you should be able to keep the top separate.


----------



## drmcoy

Thanks, toyroy -- forgot about them pesky doors.

What I'm liable to do is use the tiniest amount of SILCON clear glue to hold doors in place -- and perhaps a bead or two to hold the top canopy in place. Then, when figures comes out, I can pull it apart easily -- silicon glue is usually easy to remove if used sparingly -- drop in the figures, and then glue with ELMERS, regular ol' model glue -- or perhaps even some of the glue that is used especially for clear parts. I hate to make it TOO permanent as there is always the risk that any figures inside could potentially come loose and have to be re-positioned.

Then again, I suppose I could super-glue them to seats and not worry about it.

By the way, the reason I even ask is I get inpatient and like to display my models the nano-second I get them finished.


----------



## teslabe

drmcoy said:


> WOW! NICE WORK on the lighted robot!!!!!
> 
> You guys amaze me.
> 
> When you guys make the decision to "light" things up, do you wrestle with where you stop? If you are going through all the headaches of adding lights to the robot, do you consider adding lights to the actual Chariot -- headlights and such -- or even the control panels??
> 
> For me, it's the model..... Some just scream, "Lite Me...." It's been some time
> since a kit has gotten me so excited about doing the detail work, but all three
> of Moebius's I.A. kits have. The Seaview will get the most detailing, then the
> Chariot a bit less, mostly do to lack of space for the electronics. But it will have chest lighting for the robot with a voice activated orange LED lighting
> when he speaks. The voice came from a B-9 keychain. Yes, the headlights
> and dash will be lit along with the scanner. The Space Pod, I've not even looked at yet, but will have the "Projector" lit and animated with 24 SMT
> White LEDs and maybe a rotating dish on top, if I can get the motor to spin
> slow enough to look good, the seaview's radar antenna will use the same circuit, I just need the time to spend on it. It will be the same motor I used
> in my P.L.'s J-2 Astrogartor, this time I will use PWM to control the motors
> speed.


----------



## toyroy

toyroy said:


> Still hoping for some input on this:
> 
> 
> 
> toyroy said:
> 
> 
> 
> One detail on the glass canopy which bothers me, and I haven't entirely figured how best to deal with: the extra plastic for the upper side door hinges. I can try filing and sanding them flush, and then polishing. Or, perhaps its just better to replace those segments- even though they're curved. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

OK, I finally noticed that the upper hinge panels are opaque. Never mind...:drunk:


----------



## j2man

I would like to figure out how to create a hinge that would allow the doors to swing all the way open so that the doors rest directly against the Chariot. Like in all the photos you see of it.......Any ideas?


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

you would need some sort of offset hinge to do that, I imagine.

the first issue is that (proportionately at least) the door frames need to be about half as thin as they are. 

think about it, how thick would the real windows be? now reduce that to 1/24th the thickness. you would be able to blow on it and break it.

there's the same issue with the frame thickness.


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## j2man

Some of the clear product packing plastic surrounded by color vinyl stryping would be thin enough. Of course that would screw up my use of metal curtain rod and pleated curtains. I'll have to think about this one for a bit. I believe I could saw a bit into the frame on the top and bottom and slide a thin flat object into it and perhaps glue it to the top and bottom of the actual door. Oh well it's food for thought. I know I can make it thinner. The silver vinly stiping would help hide any saw damage to the frame. We'll see. I may just leave it as is.


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## Thor1956

j2man said:


> I would like to figure out how to create a hinge that would allow the doors to swing all the way open so that the doors rest directly against the Chariot. Like in all the photos you see of it.......Any ideas?


At the scale of The Chariot, you could try doll house door hinges. Some of them are actual working hinges. Just file a couple of recesses in the frames and glue the hinge in place. 

Dan


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## Dave Metzner

Waldron products made piano hinge sets 
I have some stashed away somewhere. 
They're real fun to put together and even more fun to attach to the palstic parts. Not for beginners! BUT they'd really work for the Chariot's doors....
I don't know if they still produce them but I'm sure you can find Waldron Products on the web somewhere.

Dave


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## AJ-1701

teslabe said:


> Thank you, AJ.... Your right, I love all the great stuff going on in here. Please post some pictures of how your robot is coming along. I'd like to see how you did the lighting in the bubble. I bet it looks sweet......


I have yet to do anything other than look at all the bits still in the bags.  I am still trying to work out how to light the full kit as well as waiting to see Drews figures and accessories. The refferance I made re the little flashing led was from the bigger P/L kit I did just recently. And yes it does look good IMHO anyway...  But I am hoping that the same principle will work on the 1/24 chariot one.

Cheers.

Alec


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## j2man

I have some red chasing lights that will do an assortment of sequences. I believe they will just fit under the dash. Problem is, they are all red. Finding a drill bit small enough to go through the dash to look like buttons has been an issue as well. Like the one used on the Robot someone did earlier. Awesome by the way.

OH Yeah! Thanks Dave, I'll try to find that company.


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## toyroy

j2man said:


> ...Finding a drill bit small enough to go through the dash to look like buttons has been an issue as well. Like the one used on the Robot someone did earlier...


Harbor Freight has a cheapie set of metric bits from .5mm - 3.0mm, item #94606. Cheaper than Walthers bits from the local hobby shop, anyway!


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## teslabe

Please look below, this post was made in error, sorry


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## teslabe

toyroy said:


> Harbor Freight has a cheapie set of metric bits from .5mm - 3.0mm, item #94606. Cheaper than Walthers bits from the local hobby shop, anyway!


That's the one I got and it works great...... Plus it holds the bit in it's handle.


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## teslabe

soQuote:
Originally Posted by j2man 
I have some red chasing lights that will do an assortment of sequences. I believe they will just fit under the dash. Problem is, they are all red. Finding a drill bit small enough to go through the dash to look like buttons has been an issue as well. Like the one used on the Robot someone did earlier. Awesome by the way.

OH Yeah! Thanks Dave, I'll try to find that company. 

Hi j2man, if you're referring to my robot, thank you very much.... I got the bits and pin vice at Harbor Freight for about $4.00, I think. I also just got
105 3mm LEDs from China on E-Bay for $9.99 plus shipping. There are 7 colors
15 each. I may have a few left over and can offer one set to you. Just send
an email and we can talk. they should be in in about 14 days.

I'm sorry I misposted the pictures.


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## teslabe

I did get some time to work on my robot while I wait for the LEDs I ordered off E-Bay for his chest. I thought I'd show the bubble lifter I did with a spring.
I think it works better then just the stock bubble lifter


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## toyroy

Actually, it's a different drill bit set. NO pin vice, just 30 bits for $2. They give you _five_ each, of the smallest sizes: .5mm(.020"), .6mm(.024"), and .8mm(.032"). I can't vouch for these right now, but I may have occasion to use the smallest bits tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.

As a comparison, _two_ Walthers bits of the same size, go for over $2 at the local hobby store.


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## Thor1956

j2man said:


> I would like to figure out how to create a hinge that would allow the doors to swing all the way open so that the doors rest directly against the Chariot. Like in all the photos you see of it.......Any ideas?


J2,

I found some hinges that might work ...

http://www.phoenixmodeldevelopments.com/acatalog/The_Phoenix_Miniature_Hinge_Range.html (Piano hinge is about half way down the page)

http://www.alwayshobbies.com/Store/Craft-Materials/Fixings-and-Hinges/Hinges/Mini-Hinge-Collection

If you decide to outfit the doors, please post some pics.

Dan


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## teslabe

toyroy said:


> Actually, it's a different drill bit set. NO pin vice, just 30 bits for $2. They give you _five_ each, of the smallest sizes: .5mm(.020"), .6mm(.024"), and .8mm(.032"). I can't vouch for these right now, but I may have occasion to use the smallest bits tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.
> 
> As a comparison, _two_ Walthers bits of the same size, go for over $2 at the local hobby store.


Sorry for the error.....


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## toyroy

teslabe said:


> Sorry for the error.....


Just a different deal.  I already have two pin vises. I may be the one "in error", if these bits don't pan out!


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## Thor1956

I don't know if anyone would be interested, but I came up with a Scanner Console for the Chariot.

Everyone is free to use it ...

The only thing I ask is that IF someone decides to add it to a decal sheet or backlit panel set, please remember where the original file came from ... 

The first pic is the only thing I can find on the DVD' that is related to the dialog for the Scanner.

The second is a .JPG that can be printed and used ...

Enjoy ...


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## teslabe

Thor1956 said:


> I don't know if anyone would be interested, but I came up with a Scanner Console for the Chariot.
> 
> Everyone is free to use it ...
> 
> The only thing I ask is that IF someone decides to add it to a decal sheet or backlit panel set, please remember where the original file came from ...
> 
> The first pic is the only thing I can find on the DVD' that is related to the dialog for the Scanner.
> 
> The second is a .JPG that can be printed and used ...
> 
> Enjoy ...
> 
> Very nice job, Thor. I'll see how it looks on frosted film, then backlite with
> O.F. for the small light in your artwork and a green LED for the radar screen.
> If it works I'll post pictures. THank you for taking the time to do this, it looks
> Great.......:woohoo:


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## teslabe

I have no idea what happend to that post, there is a quote from Thor1956 in there....


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## Paulbo

teslabe said:


> I have no idea what happend to that post, there is a quote from Thor1956 in there....


You didn't close the quote with "[/QUOTE]".


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## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> You didn't close the quote with "


".[/QUOTE]

Thanks Paul, I'm not good at typing.......


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## Thor1956

teslabe said:


> Very nice job, Thor. I'll see how it looks on frosted film, then backlite with O.F. for the small light in your artwork and a green LED for the radar screen. If it works I'll post pictures. THank you for taking the time to do this, it looks Great.......:woohoo:


Thank You Sir.

I have no idea if the colors are correct or not ... the only view I could find in the DVD' is B/W.

I guess as long as it works ...

I'll be looking forward to the pics.

Dan


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## Paulbo

teslabe said:


> Thanks Paul, I'm not good at typing.......


No sweat, Kent. I'm actually thinking you must have backspaced over it or deleted it somehow.

Did you happen to get the email I sent you yesterday?


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## g_xii

Thor1956 said:


> Thank You Sir.
> 
> I have no idea if the colors are correct or not ... the only view I could find in the DVD' is B/W.
> 
> I guess as long as it works ...
> 
> I'll be looking forward to the pics.
> 
> Dan


I was watching that episode last night, trying to find that scanner. I finally figured out that the scanner you have is not the one that is in the chariot, even though it is shown when Judy looks down -- it cuts to that scanner! But that's a scanner from the set of the J2. The scanner actually in the chariot is quite a bit smaller -- you can JUST see it in a different episode. Take a look at this pic:










As you can see, they are quite different! The Irwin Allen world! Does anyone have a better pic of this scanner?

--Henry


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## Y3a

Has anybody put their B9 Robot next to the Lunar Models 2 foot Jupiter 2? Seems to be the SAME SCALE!!!!! 

I think My B9 has a new home next to the crude wooden figures I made for the model. So I guess the Chariot is ALSO IN THE SCALE OF THE 2 FOOT Jupiter 2??


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## Steve244

could it be an omen?


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## Lou Dalmaso

*in a related note*

I was tinkering with the wee Robby that came with the nice deluxe tin release of Forbidden Planet and I think its about the same scale as the B9 maybe a little larger.

just sayin'


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## toyroy

Y3a said:


> ...I think My B9 has a new home next to the crude wooden figures I made for the (2' Jupiter 2 model.)


I'd love to see some pics of your scratchbuilt figures and chariot B9!


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## Y3a

The Lunar Models Jupiter 2 IS a little small for the robot I'm sorry to say. The figures in my model match the scale of those seen in the 4 foot Hero, but the robot is about 7 feet plus for that model.

Darn!


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## teslabe

I just can't seem to leave this kit alone, I was hoping to do some work on my 
Seaview...... But I thought I would try to come up with a hinge that would let
me open the doors completely and still be able to remove the "Body top#1".
I first looked at plastic tubing but it was just too big so I then tried metal and it was much better and is easier to work with. Now, I only have 7 more to do....:freak:


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## toyroy

teslabe said:


> ...I thought I would try to come up with a hinge that would let me open the doors completely and still be able to remove the "Body top#1"...


It's probably too late as I write this, but there probably _are_ some ready-made hinges out there that would work in this model. Hinges for RC planes come to mind; also, someone mentioned dollhouse hinges.


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## teslabe

toyroy said:


> It's probably too late as I write this, but there probably _are_ some ready-made hinges out there that would work in this model. Hinges for RC planes come to mind; also, someone mentioned dollhouse hinges.


Hi toyroy, I looked at them, the baseplates are too large and they look like they came from a "dollhouse". I don't mind making my hinges, plus, I can control how loose or tight they are. Nothing worse then a door that flops around. I used a small right angle for the mount so it's footprint will be small 
and not past the door frame.:thumbsup:


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## toyroy

teslabe said:


> ... I don't mind making my hinges, plus, I can control how loose or tight they are...


I use the K&S brass stuff myself, so I don't have any doubt you can make what you need.


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## teslabe

toyroy said:


> I use the K&S brass stuff myself, so I don't have any doubt you can make what you need.


Right on...... The parts came from their, "Sizes & Shapes" stock #707. It's a real nice mix of parts.......:woohoo:


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## Y3a

OK so heres the comparison photo of the "eyeballed" scaling of some figures to be similar to the 'look' from the Hero in the landing shots where you might see 2 or 4 figures in the main window. These are in my 2 Foot Lunar Models hull. I have the Moebius B9 Robot in there with the figures. B9 is a larger scale than the Lunar models kit. Rats! Yeah, I know ................the B9 isn't done yet.....


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## toyroy

Wow. Words fail me.


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## teslabe

Had some time to work on the headlights for my Chariot. This was the only 
thing about the kit that I didn't like, they looked too big for the kit.
So I was at my local Home Depot and found something that just said 
"headlight bezel", they are #6 finishing washers.:thumbsup: I just think it did
the trick.:woohoo: The punch will make it easy to open up the hole. I used 
a 9/32" (7.14mm) die.


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## toyroy

teslabe said:


> ...I was at my local Home Depot and found something that just said "headlight basil", they are #6 finishing washers...


Those look great! And stainless, too. :thumbsup:

(I think the spelling is _bezel_, though.)


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## AJ-1701

Whoo they look great. :thumbsup:


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## teslabe

toyroy said:


> Those look great! And stainless, too. :thumbsup:
> 
> (I think the spelling is _bezel_, though.)


Thank you ,toyroy. Your right, it is Bezel. I suck at spelling.....


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## teslabe

AJ-1701 said:


> Whoo they look great. :thumbsup:


Thank you, AJ.:wave:


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## g_xii

That looks SO sweet! EXCELLENT find and a great idea!

Does it come with headlight adjustment screws? I mean, it looks SO accurate with the bezel, it's a crime not to be able to adjust the beam, you know? 

--Henry


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## teslabe

g_xii said:


> That looks SO sweet! EXCELLENT find and a great idea!
> 
> Does it come with headlight adjustment screws? I mean, it looks SO accurate with the bezel, it's a crime not to be able to adjust the beam, you know?
> 
> --Henry


Thank you Henry, don't see any screws,yet..... I also will be use these
on my Seaview for the Belly and Nose light bezel.:woohoo:


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## rondenning

> I was tinkering with the wee Robby that came with the nice deluxe tin release of Forbidden Planet and I think its about the same scale as the B9 maybe a little larger.
> 
> just sayin'


Lou, I worked out the scale on both, and the Chariot B-9 is 3.150 inches tall X 24 = 75.6 inches, which is 6 ft. 3-5/8 inches tall.(about right with his bubble in the "down" position)
The Robby from the 50th ann. Tin of FP is 3.5 inches tall X 24 = 84 inches, which is 7 ft. even. So, the Robby is exactly 1/24 scale also!!
The differance between them is .350 inches X 24 = 8.400 inches, which is 8 and 3/8 inches, and that seems to be right(with B-9's bubble "down") when I watch the "Battle of the Robots" episode on DVD.
So, till drew finishes his Robby, the one from the FP tin is definately the right scale to go with the Chariot models B-9 figure!!:woohoo:
:devil:Ron:devil:


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## Lou Dalmaso

Hey Teslabe!

whered'ja get that nifty punch? 

is that something we mere mortals can get access to?

Punches-R-Us?


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Hey Teslabe!
> 
> whered'ja get that nifty punch?
> 
> is that something we mere mortals can get access to?
> 
> Punches-R-Us?


http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs..._ID:2004061&productId=2004061&catalogId=10101

Hi Lou, You are just pulling my leg, right You can also get them at 
Harbor Freight, but I don't think you get the 9/32" die I used. But I'm sure
it has something close.:wave:


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## Lou Dalmaso

I'm wondering if it's something I can sneak into a store and do. I mean it seems a shame to buy a whole punch (Whole punch? get it? har!) to make two of these.

maybe I can buy one then return it after I've done the deed. :devil:


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I'm wondering if it's something I can sneak into a store and do. I mean it seems a shame to buy a whole punch (Whole punch? get it? har!) to make two of these.
> 
> maybe I can buy one then return it after I've done the deed. :devil:


Just send me a SASE and I'll be happy to keep you honest..... Send me a PM and I'll give you my address.


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## teslabe

http://cgi.ebay.com/50-PCS-0603-SMT...66954QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

Just got started in the spot/fog lights for the Charoit. The LEDs are very well
priced here. The wire is 33awg "Mag-Wire". I love this stuff, it's easy to work with and easy to hide in your build.:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Oh, please stick a fork in me, I'm done with my Spot/fog lights......:freak:
I just need to put them in the Chariot and leave them alone. I love my "Whitney" #5 JR. hand punch, it's worth every cent I paid for it....... I used it to make the plastic back for my lights, so I could shape it better and 
it was used to make the lenses.:woohoo: I now need to get back to my Seaview.:thumbsup:

P.S. I did not use the bezels in the last picture.


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## Lou Dalmaso

Tremendous!!

now if you could only find a way to mass produce them for the rest of us


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## j2man

Sorry about the photo clarity. I have completed phase 1 of the chariot treads. I used those construx plastic T's from HobbyTown. The kind you use to construct buildings, etc for railroading.

The next phase will be the center pieces to give the illusion that the tires are thinner than what they actually are.


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## j2man

I agree Lou, you should mass produce those lights!


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Tremendous!!
> 
> now if you could only find a way to mass produce them for the rest of us


Thank you very much Lou..... :wave:If they could be made easier I'd be happy to make up a few, but they'er a pain to make.:freak:


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## teslabe

j2man said:


> Sorry about the photo clarity. I have completed phase 1 of the chariot treads. I used those construx plastic T's from HobbyTown. The kind you use to construct buildings, etc for railroading.
> 
> The next phase will be the center pieces to give the illusion that the tires are thinner than what they actually are.


j2man, from what I can tell from the photos, they look great......:thumbsup:
Please post more pictures when you get the time.


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## j2man

Here is a better view.


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## Lou Dalmaso

guys,
I just posted an update over on my "paradise" thread

enjoy


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## AJ-1701

Those lil spots will look great teslabe :thumbsup:

And J2man you have way more patiants than me... top job. :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Alec.:wave:


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## teslabe

AJ-1701 said:


> Those lil spots will look great teslabe :thumbsup:
> 
> And J2man you have way more patiants than me... top job. :thumbsup:
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Alec.:wave:


Thank you very much Alec.:wave:


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## teslabe

I was looking at "Just An Illusion's" website, the add-on parts for the Chariot and I think
the picture of the luggage rack, has the floor in wrong or am I wrong.... I would think it should look more like this, I have not painted it yet. I will take the floor out first.


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## Lou Dalmaso

What kind of tiny wire did you use as tie downs and how did you trim around the posts?

looks great:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> What kind of tiny wire did you use as tie downs and how did you trim around the posts?
> 
> looks great:thumbsup:


Hi Lou, thank you for the comment.:wave: The wire is 33awg "Mag-wire",
I use it alot for my wiring. I used it on my spot/fog lights. As for the trimming
of the posts, I used Needle Files that I got from "Harbor Freight". A 12 piece
set for $.99, so I got 5 packs....:woohoo: It did take some time to get it to fit.....:freak:

P.S. Lou, I never got you're S.A.S.E. for the headlight bezels, they are still
here for you and I'll throw in some of this wire if you like.


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## Lou Dalmaso

Thanx, 
i got hung up on pre holiday stuff that deteriorated into actual holiday stuff and even now I'm away from home base..

I'll get that envelope out to you this week

muchas Garcias


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## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Thanx,
> i got hung up on pre holiday stuff that deteriorated into actual holiday stuff and even now I'm away from home base..
> 
> I'll get that envelope out to you this week
> 
> muchas Garcias


Hi Lou,
Your bezels will be out first thing tomorrow..... I threw in some of the
33AWG Mag wire for you. You will need to remove the coating at the ends
if you use it for wiring.:wave:


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## Lou Dalmaso

thanks!

hey check out this photo
http://www.cloudster.com/Sets&Vehicles/Chariot/chariot19.jpg

the scanner appears to be *backwards*!

does this mean that in addition to sliding up and back, it also swiveled?


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## 71challenger

Yes, it did.


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## Lou Dalmaso

well, that changes a lot of things as now it doesn't look like you need to make that radar screen that went on the "back" of the scanner.

It also offers a lot more possibilities for posing the scanner.


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## 71challenger

The best episodes I've found for the Chariot so far are 5th Dimension and Monster Plants. At the end of 5th, there's a good shot of the computer control panels as well as of the Chariot w/o glass. In Plants, as Judy is rushing to stop Don from nuking the plants, there's a good shot that shows the riveted band under the top of the bench seats, the scanner control panel, the computer control panel, as well as the box is standing on. The screen at the back of the scanner is missing - the whole little unit is missing, in fact, just a bottom and some wires sticking out. Maybe Goddard kicked it or stepped on it during filming and they just took the broken part off. Some other episode (and I don't remember which unfortunately) the scanner unit is completely missing and you can see what looks like a pivot or small turntable that it would mount over. There are episodes where you can see that it's not zero degrees fwd but pointed off to the side, as well as rotated upwards.


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## dsharlock

Hey, I just wanted to thank Ductapeforever and everyone on this message board for they're invaluable reference in building the Chariot. I should be able to post a link to my finished one soon.

Thanks again,

Bill


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## teslabe

dsharlock said:


> Hey, I just wanted to thank Ductapeforever and everyone on this message board for they're invaluable reference in building the Chariot. I should be able to post a link to my finished one soon.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Bill


That is the finest work I've ever seen.......:thumbsup:


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## starseeker2

Dsharlock: That is the nicest Chariot model I've ever seen! It doesn't look like a model of the Chariot, it look like a miniature of a real machine. Not only your build and detailing outstanding, but your weathering is exceptionally so. 

Not a lot of time to work on mine, only when I want to take a break from the Seaview.


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## WEAPON X

What awesome detailing!


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