# Dual 1/350 Refit Build - A Glutton For Punishment!



## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

-Ported from theRPF-
-I started this build 3 months ago, then got wrapped up in my new masking business for the last 2 months, finally back on builds. Everything I'm doing for the kits is custom. I'll update here from now on, but for now here's a photo barrage to bring ya'll up to date!-


One morning I woke up & said to myself "You know what... today seems like a perfectly fine day to drive yourself INSANE", so that's what I'm doing

This will be a side by side build, one for commission, the other for auction.
For the commission build I'll be going with a two tone aztec & TMP era green/grey for the secondary colors. A standard light package with firing photons & landing strip lights as extras.
On the auction I'm thinking five color aztec, TMP green/grey, same light package as the commission. Also a little sumthin' special that I'll go into later!
Both will get v2 of the paragraphix etch set. I'm really excited about the v2 set. It seems they've added a "best of" from the old PNT set. Now their set has cargo pods, arboretum walls, & corrected impulse grills. Things that were previously only on the PNT set. Though.. I can't believe paragraphix still didn't fix the mirrored warp nacelle back end caps. To let it go once... ok, but to reissue with the same major flaw!??
Both will be getting a back lit base with controls similar to the one from my last build. Except they will use 8 pin microphone connectors for attachment.


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

Stunning work, and fast too!

Between these and the masks....are you on speed, or steroids or something????:tongue:

Great work!

Rich


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

LOL, if I were I'd ev' definitely had a heart attack by now!

This is what happens when an manufacturing process specialist has too much time on his hands.


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

LOL!!!! You are certainly a commited chap! And you should certainly be....i'll let you finish that one yourself!

BTW.....looking forward to any news on the masks i asked from you!!!!:wave:

Again, astonishing work...inspirational and utterly awesome! 

(Oh god, i might have to tackle another of these......wahhhhh!!!!!)

Rich


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## galaxy_jason (May 19, 2009)

Very clean build. Your inboard grills are spot on!


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

Totally awesome.


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## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

tis a thing of beauty


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks Folks!

I'm really glad to be back on these builds full time. Whittled away at em' for the last 2 months, but my OCBD (Obsessive Compulsive Builders Disorder) has been driving me up the wall. Think I even developed a twitch from the anxiety of not constantly building.


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

A really impressive body of work so far!

Will you be painting all aztecs or using decals?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Fantastic job! I am starting to slowly work on mine and have a quick question for you. I have heard mixed word on the dreaded "engine droop" on this model. I have heard some say it isn't a problem and others state it can be. Is there anything you're doing to prevent this? I am interested in what technique you use since I want to avoid this on mine if it is a problem.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

How did you do your grills? they look really nice. Did you mask the depressed lines somehow? It is really clean.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Great stuff. Your approach makes the rest of us believe that this kit _can_ be attacked and beaten into submission!


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

Landru said:


> A really impressive body of work so far!
> 
> Will you be painting all aztecs or using decals?


Thanks Landru!
I'll be painting everything with my mask set, which is available for sale on Ebay.



Opus Penguin said:


> Fantastic job! I am starting to slowly work on mine and have a quick question for you. I have heard mixed word on the dreaded "engine droop" on this model. I have heard some say it isn't a problem and others state it can be. Is there anything you're doing to prevent this? I am interested in what technique you use since I want to avoid this on mine if it is a problem.


Thanks Opus!

It is & isn't a problem, a lot of it has to do with how much weight is added in lighting & wiring. Try to keep everything clean & minimalist as possible. I do still re-enforce the pylons, with a few styrene strips. Also the glue, make sure it's a chemical bonding type such as bondene(my choice), ambroid , or even testors red tube. Let it cure for 3 days just to be safe. we all get antsy about seeing it together, but putting any weight or flex on the pylon before it completely cures will stretch & weaken the seams. I'll go through most of this process in the next couple of weeks, as I reach that stage



charonjr said:


> How did you do your grills? they look really nice. Did you mask the depressed lines somehow? It is really clean.


Yup, mask them with .025"/.75mm tape



SteveR said:


> Great stuff. Your approach makes the rest of us believe that this kit _can_ be attacked and beaten into submission!


Thanks Steve!

These are my 2nd & 3rd Refits & there's been a grip of pre-planning. I break it all down into subsections & sequence those, & then sequence the subsections into the full build before I start working. 




Thanks Folks & I'll be back soon with some updates!


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

I guess I’ll blow the dust off this thread & post some updates.

Well it’s been a long couple of months in the shop. A lot of building & mask development has been taking place.

I’ll go ahead & make the official announcement first.
There will be a new 5 color “Master” mask set released. I’m putting the finishing touches on it now & should have it out pretty quickly. This set will have true Refit & “A” E-Hull plating masks, 3 color lightning bolt pylons, & a few other updates. It will be its own standalone product, not compatible with the current set. I’ll still carry both sets as the 5 color set is a bit intense & more for the intermediate-pro & fearless modeler.

On to the build…

So here we are months later, all wiring & lighting is installed. Shuttle bays, arbs. & vip lounges are done, & all but the lounges installed. E-hull & nacelles are sealed & ready for assembly. Saucers are 95% there & lower saucers are ready to attach. I’m getting really excited as painting is drawing nearer! They’ll both now be getting a 5 color paint up, one will be classic green markings & the other will be blue.
Enjoy the pics!


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)




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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

orbital drydock said:


> I’ll go ahead & make the official announcement first.
> There will be a new 5 color “Master” mask set released. I’m putting the finishing touches on it now & should have it out pretty quickly. This set will have true Refit & “A” E-Hull plating masks, 3 color lightning bolt pylons, & a few other updates. It will be its own standalone product, not compatible with the current set. I’ll still carry both sets as the 5 color set is a bit intense & more for the intermediate-pro & fearless modeler.


Now, that sounds great. I'm NOT looking forward to doing the three color bolts on the outboard pylons. The inboard drove me NUTS with cutting individual pieces of tape, etc. :drunk:

Are there any changes to saucer aztec, such as additional patterns besides the main "christmas tree" one? Are you gonna go with the same vinyl material as the old ones, or going to the kabuki tape? 

Sorry to possibly threadjack with questions.

Oh, and those two builds look amazing. I'd love to try lighting a model someday, but I got ZERO experience in that regard.


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## morrihl1 (Jan 19, 2008)

Glad to see the update on this, fantastic work and can't wait to see them completed. Where did you get your crew figures? They look a lot more 3d than the PE guys I've been struggling with.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

galaxy_jason said your inboard nacelle grilles were spot-on. Does that mean that they should be painted purple overall except for the bottom of the trenches where the light shines through? Is anything painted black?


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

barrydancer said:


> Now, that sounds great. I'm NOT looking forward to doing the three color bolts on the outboard pylons. The inboard drove me NUTS with cutting individual pieces of tape, etc. :drunk:
> 
> Are there any changes to saucer aztec, such as additional patterns besides the main "christmas tree" one? Are you gonna go with the same vinyl material as the old ones, or going to the kabuki tape?
> 
> Oh, and those two builds look amazing. I'd love to try lighting a model someday, but I got ZERO experience in that regard.


Thanks Barry, watching you do those pylon inboards by hand & the Refit body work, are some of the reasons that prompted the new set.

I'll be adding randomizing masks to the saucers for the 4 color squares, but the "tree" pattern will be the same for the 5th color. This set will be the same vinyl material. In the future I may add an option for a full kabuki set, but it would be more expensive.

We all start with zip for experience, just jump in. Buy a bunch of components bulk & mess around. There are tons of tutorials & help guides for basic led lighting. If you have any questions feel free to ask away. I design all of my own lighting rigs & fx packages.



morrihl1 said:


> Glad to see the update on this, fantastic work and can't wait to see them completed. Where did you get your crew figures? They look a lot more 3d than the PE guys I've been struggling with.


Thanks, I use the l'arsenal 1/350 navy crew members. They're resin & come in a 50pk for $16. They are really delicate & decapitate & dismember VERY easily. I mount them on a toothpick & paint with a magnifying glass. I tried the PE people & got fed up, they never look quite right & paint doesn't stick to them well.
http://www.larsenal-usa.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=33



RossW said:


> galaxy_jason said your inboard nacelle grilles were spot-on. Does that mean that they should be painted purple overall except for the bottom of the trenches where the light shines through? Is anything painted black?


Yes, purple on top, clear in the trenches. If you look at my first pics in post #5. You can see that there is a portion of the grill trenches where it tapers near the back that isn't lit up. This is the area of the trenches that should black & light blocked


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## robunimog12 (Nov 30, 2012)

Nice work.
Are your shuttlebay , arboritium and lounge colors all the instruction recommended ones?
Got mine on the bench and getting ready for paint and photoetch.
Thanks, Rob.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

It is said that one image worth more than a thousand words. What could we say about dozens of (beautiful) images?

Man, your extraordinary clean and fast work makes the build of this kit seems *SO* easy!!!

Two at the same time? Wow!!!

All the pictures dully downloaded for future reference. 

Thanks a lot for sharing.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Holy ledstrip, Batman!:wave:


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## robunimog12 (Nov 30, 2012)

Forgot to ask, what lighting kit are you using?


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

VERY nice, clean work so far sir! I agree with the comment that you are making this build look easy... :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Orbital

Please, what would be the differences between the first run of the kit and this reissue by PL?

Thanks.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Orbital
> 
> Please, what would be the differences between the first run of the kit and this reissue by PL?
> 
> Thanks.


The kits themselves are identical, save for the reissue having a mounting hole just behind the deflector, and no tiny holes in the saucer/rear of the hull for the old mounts.


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks folks!



robunimog12 said:


> Nice work.
> Are your shuttlebay , arboritium and lounge colors all the instruction recommended ones?
> Got mine on the bench and getting ready for paint and photoetch.
> Thanks, Rob.


Mostly, I use camo gray on the walls, & euro gray for accents in the shuttle bay



robunimog12 said:


> Forgot to ask, what lighting kit are you using?


Completely custom by me, boards & all!


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## robunimog12 (Nov 30, 2012)

Thanks. Nice work.
Hope to see more pics of your progress.
I have to remind myself to take more pics of my WIP , just get too busy workin on the darn thing.


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## robunimog12 (Nov 30, 2012)

Hey Brett, I have a question on your mask sets.
I am thinking of buying a set off e-bay and was wondering if you provide a list of colors that would need to be sprayed. Might as well do it right!
Thanks, Rob.


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

Hey Hey Folks!
It's been a bit since I've posted any updates on these builds, so here's a mini update & I'll be back soon with more.

This update is about a new all metal post mount I've developed using standard 8 pin mic plug connectors, threaded lamp rod, & a connector piece I designed. I'll be featuring the new mount here in the dual refit builds. 

There is no epoxy or glue used anywhere in this mount, all connections are threaded for an extremely stable & secure mount. Utilizing standardized components with the mic plugs & threaded lamp rod, makes finding compatible hardware very easy. These posts are also 100% compatible with any 8 pin mic connector already installed in a model.

This is the only fully threaded mounting post available. The post comes with a 6" threaded lamp rod, a pre-wired(6x 24awg & 2x 22awg) & installed 8 pin female mic plug, & a panel mount 8 pin male mic plug to mount in the model. Max system voltages of 6amps for the 22awg power/ground runs, & 3amps per 24awg run. Post also threads directly into the stock 1/350 Refit base with no modification.

These are on sale now!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-Post-...330459230?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item19ebcffe5e


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## rmpitzer (Mar 11, 2016)

I realize I am responding to a 2 year old post......but I'm curious about this mounting post. I'd love to use this, but wonder if you have any balance issues mounting it under the arboretum window? Seems like the model is very front heavy. I see you put ALOT of epoxy on the mount (any issue with the heat of it curing?)......was that enough to mount it securely?

Thanks!
-Rich


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

rmpitzer said:


> I realize I am responding to a 2 year old post......but I'm curious about this mounting post. I'd love to use this, but wonder if you have any balance issues mounting it under the arboretum window? Seems like the model is very front heavy. I see you put ALOT of epoxy on the mount (any issue with the heat of it curing?)......was that enough to mount it securely?
> 
> Thanks!
> -Rich


It's an oldie, but goodie. I haven't run into many balance issues. I try to keep the saucers as light as possible just in case. There are also 2x .010 brass shims with 5/8" holes epoxied directly in the trough. Then I back filled the trough up to the wire leads. No issues with curing heat. It's way more secure than is necessary. I kind of moved the rest of this thread to a new one when I started the aztec work.

Also the posts are currently out of stock. I need to spend some time on the new lathe & make a batch.


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## rmpitzer (Mar 11, 2016)

Awesome, thanks for the info! I'll keep my eye on your website for when the posts are back in stock. Does it use a normal 8 pin microphone jack? I could at least get one of those to epoxy into the model until you make more adapters, if it fits!

-Rich


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## orbital drydock (Apr 23, 2013)

rmpitzer said:


> Awesome, thanks for the info! I'll keep my eye on your website for when the posts are back in stock. Does it use a normal 8 pin microphone jack? I could at least get one of those to epoxy into the model until you make more adapters, if it fits!
> 
> -Rich


No prob. Yes, the mount uses a standard 8-pin mic plug.

Just make sure the "key" in the male plug is oriented forward, or backward. Not sideways or at an angle.


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