# Modeling Basics 101: Decals



## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

I have noticed a lot of guys here having problems with decals. So lets see if we can shed some light on this sometimes delicate procedure.

As a rule I always check the condition of the decal sheet in any kit first. I take the age of the kit into consideration before proceeding. Check the box top and instructions to determin when the kit was manufactured , look for the Copyright date ,if the kit is older than 1 year regardless of how the sheet looks, I clearcoat it with clear spray sealer. This solves two issues, it keeps decals from splintering when placed in water and seals the decal so the printed inks won't run. It's primary purpose is to reinforce the decal carrier film and helps prevent tearing. 

After clearcoating allow at least 24 hours drying time before doing anything else.

If you are not going to build the kit in the near future (1 to 2 months), we must next prep the kit for longterm storage.

When adding your kit to the ' To Build Pile' in your model stash , prep the kits decal sheet as follows:

After the sheet has been clearcoated and has had ample drying time, Cut a sheet of kitchen wax paper the same size as the decal sheet and place on the image side of the decals and carefully tape the wax paper to the decals with a tiny length of Tamiya Masking tape or low tac painters tape along two sides of the sheet. This will prevent the decal from sticking to the inside of the bag . Place the decals in the zip lock bag with a desiccant package commonly found in new pairs of shoes and some medications. (Also available at some better photography stores) This will absorbe any moisture from the air left in the ziplock bag. I guess I don't need to tell you moisture is a mortal enemy of waterslide decals.

Your kits decals should now be safe for long term storage.


*Coming soon: Application of Waterslide decals.
Stay tuned !*


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

*The Dark Art of Decals*

Decals that are applied well will greatly enhance a model, but when they are applied badly they will ruin a model that otherwise would have been excellent. Some modelers find decaling difficult , providing a few basic rules are followed, it is quite easy to get good results.

Water slide decals or transfers consist of several layers. There is always a sheet of backing paper to which everything else is attached. On top of the paper is a layer of water soluable glue. The actual markings are printed on the glue film and on top of that is a carrier film. Some decals that have a poorly applied carrier film or old model kits that suffer from non existant carrier film will disintrgrate when placed in water.

When placed in water for a few seconds the glue will become slippery and allow the decal to literally slide off the backing paper and on to the model. A single drop of dishwashing liquid dissolved in the water acts as a wetting agent and will help the decals to slide off the backing paper and on to the model minimizing the possibility of tearing. Hopefully there will still be sufficient adhesive on the back of the decal to stick to the model. If not, ...No Worries, Mate, ...mix a few drops of Elmer's School glue with a few drops of water and float the mix under the decal and allow to dry normally. Wipe any excess with a paper towel.

It is *vitally important *to have a *GLOSS *or *SEMI-GLOSS SURFACE *on which to apply the decals. *DO NOT APPLY DECALS OVER FLAT/ MATT PAINTS ! EVER !* 

*Never, ever, ever, ever !!!!!!!!!!!*

Matt/Flat paints leave a surface that is microscopically rough. If a decal is applied to such a surface then it will only make contact with the high points on the surface of the paint. When dry there will be thousands of microscopic air pockets under the decal which will appear as ‘silvering’ and will look terrible.

Some modellers will only clearcoat those parts of the model where decals are to be placed, but there is a danger of producing a ridge at the edge of the clearcoat. Most modellers will clearcoat the entire model because this is not only needed for decal application, but also makes it easier to apply filters and washes to the model. *Note: any overspray onto clear parts will fog the parts,....No Worries.....Isopropol Alcohol applied carefully with a cotton swab will remove the overspray and when rubbed with an old t-shirt will restore their former luster.* 

The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate flat clearcoat.

*(Next) Setting solutions.*


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

*Decal Setting Solutions*

Although waterslide decals are intended to stick well to the model, in practice they only do this in ideal circumstances, such as when there is a perfectly smooth surface. If the surface undulates or has texture, or if the decals need to fit over or around surface projections, then they need a little help.

I almost forgot....*NEVER EVER, Ever, Ever decal the bare surface of the plastic! **Bad rookie.....NO Biscuit !* Mold release on the surface, *even after washing *the kit parts will cause the decals to peel up later down the road ! At least clearcoat it first if you are leaving the kit it's natural color.

Many companies produce two part decal solutions to help with the application of waterslide decals. The first part is painted on to the surface of the model. This makes it easier to slide the decal into the correct position and improves the adhesion of the decal. The second part is painted on top of the decal. This softens the decal and helps to make it conform to any irregularities in the surface. This second solution can be reapplied if the decal has not fitted well around any surface projections.

Once the second solution has been applied, the decal may appear to wrinkle and may look dreadful. *However, do not touch it *at this stage because it will be extremely elastic and fragile. I know it looks awful and you think you did something wrong,* this is normal ! *As it dries the wrinkles should disappear and the decal will shrink back on to the surface and cling fast to any surface details. Any stubborn areas can be wetted with #2 solution and worked down with a Q-tip. (Insert shameless product placement ad here !) (This article is NOT sponsored by Johnson and Johnson and has no affiliation with the author....wink, wink !)

These decal solutions vary in strength between different manufacturers. *It is advisable to experiment a little when you use these solutions for the first time, or change brands.*

*(Next) When to apply decals !*


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

*When do you apply decals?*

This will vary from model to model and it may be advisable to apply some decals at a different time to others. *The key is to PLAN AHEAD !*
Study your instructions, sometimes when working with subassemblies as construction progresses , subassemblies added later in the construction process will interfere with decal application in hard to reach areas.
*Also do your research on the real subject, even a fictional vehicle.* *Study existing photographs and drawings, the internet is a wonderful tool, USE IT ! Remember.....Google is your friend ! *Some tiny markings are left off due to their size, but these can easily be made at home using your computers graphics program and blank decal paper available at most fine Hobby stores, then printed on your own computer printer.

Mine is a hard and fast rule : *Always Apply decals and paint from the very first step in the construction process.* regardless of what the instructions dictate. Some markings make more sense to apply earlier in the build.* PLAN ! STUDY ! RECHECK!*
Always apply them just before weathering, so that they look like they have been weathered with the rest of the vehicle.

*(Next) The Application Process!*


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## redline hunter (Jan 9, 2008)

What clear coat is best to use as a fixative on older decal sheets? I assume it needs to be compatible with the final clear coat you use on the model to avoid reactions?


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

*The Application Process*

*Step By Step Guide
*The following describes the application process * The first stage is to prepare your work area and make sure you have everything to hand:*

Model

Decal sheet

Saucer of *WARM* water + a drop of dishwashing liquid

Tweezers

Decal solutions

Small brushes (one for each decal
solution)

Small scissors

Paper towel

*ENSURE YOUR PAINTED SURFACE HAS HAD AMPLE TIME TO DRY ! AT LEAST 48 HOURS BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO DECAL !*


*STEP ONE: WASH THE SURFACE OF THE MODEL WITH SOAP AND WATER !*

*STEP TWO: USE A TAC RAG ON THE SURFACE TO REMOVE LINT , DIRT , AND MOST IMPORTANTLY OILS FROM YOUR FINGERS !*
Some decal sheets look complex, but some models have the option to choose one of many different colour schemes so only a portion of these decals will be needed.

*STEP THREE:*
Cut out the decal to be applied. It is best to leave the carrier film intact if possible, but where this will make the decal too big for the area where it is applied, or where there is an irregular surface it may be best to cut right up to the printed decal area.

(I always cut right up to the printed graphic but thats me, it's your model, do it however you're comfortable.)

Place the decal on the surface of the water and leave it for *20 or 30 seconds.*
The decal may float or sink and it may curl up, none of this matters.
Remove the decal from the water *BEFORE IT SEPERATES FROM THE BACKING PAPER *and place it on a paper towel *PRINTED SIDE UP *to remove any excess water. *Trust me, you don't want your decal to stick to the paper towel !*

Paint a layer of decal solution 1 on the model where the decal is to be placed. *Ensure that the wet decal doesn't slide off the paper backing, it can curl back on itself and unless your really talented, or just plain lucky it is a bear to do much to save it.*

Slide the decal off the backing paper on to the model. Using a paint brush is a good way to do this without damaging the decal. Try to move the decal as little as possible pulling the backing sheet away from it.

(Note) I advise larger decals be cut up in sections for application, it's easier to work with and move into place and minimizes the possibility of tearing.)

Use the brush to position the decal. When you are satisfied with the position press a paper towel on top of the decal to absorb excess water. It is normally possible to reposition the decal by dampening it with more solution and sliding the brush underneath it. If necessary, brush a layer of setting solution 2 on to the decal then leave it alone to dry thoroughly.

When the decal is completely dry it is normal to seal it with a clearcoat or Klear/Future Floor finish. When applied correctly, the decals should look like they have been painted on.

*Additionally*
1.If the decal is thin and the paint underneath shows through (often the case with white decals) then try painting over the decals with thinned paint using them as a template.
2.If the decals have to fit around surface projections, then cut them into small pieces and apply them separately.
3.If there are air bubble under a decal when it has dried then prick it with a pin a few times, paint decal solution on it and press down on it with a damp paper towel.

*There,.......that's it. There is really nothing to it ! Hope this was helpful. *
Model On !


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

redline hunter said:


> What clear coat is best to use as a fixative on older decal sheets? I assume it needs to be compatible with the final clear coat you use on the model to avoid reactions?



Great question, unfortunately there is no definitive answer because each modeler has his or her own preference.

Old decals can be problematic. I will scan the decal into my computer and digitally store the graphic for safe keeping. More on the reason later...

If the decal has yellowed with age we must first try to restore the brightness and get rid of the yellow hue by gently taping the sheet faceing the sun to a southern exposure window for a period of time to allow the sun to bleach out the yellowing . *Use exstream care when doing this,* if the decal sheet has any red markings on the sheet you run the risk of having the red fade in the sun as well. *So...check the sheet often for progress.*
As for clearcoat, my old standby is Modelmaster Clearcoat, there is a nasty rumor that Testors Modelmaster Clearcoat yellows with age, however I can't substantiate the validity of the rumor because I have many models built over *Twenty years *old and look as great today as the day they were completed.
Some folks will simply airbrush Future Floor finish over the decals to seal them and call it good. In other words your milage may vary ! I would recommend trying *both methods *on different models and go with what you like best.

Now, back to the computer scan. I do this for one reason only, to ward off total disaster in case I damage the sheet beyond repair, I have a* backup *of sorts I can print onto decal film using my computer, saving the majority of the markings. *CAUTION: the computer produced decals cannot copy white markings !* The scanner see's them as simply clear background. That's why I say I can preserve* MOST *markings on the sheet.

*So ends the lesson !*


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

*,,,,,and if anyone is interested.*

Anyone wishing to learn the finer points of Homemade decals, let me know here and I'll whip something up.

Dr. Herb S. Hampton


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## redline hunter (Jan 9, 2008)

What paper is the best to use? I have read that it does make a difference.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

redline hunter said:


> What paper is the best to use? I have read that it does make a difference.


I've had the best luck with Testors 5 x 7 sheets sets, and they are easy to find ( Hobbylobby stores, also Hobbytown USA ) 
Microscale makes 8 1/2 x 11 sheets that are available online or at some specialty Hobby shops.

*Tip: Modelmaster Clearcoat and Testor's Decal Bonder are the same thing!* The Decal Bonder is much more expensive! Save yourself a few bucks and have a Starbucks on me !


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

How can I avoid this? (What ever *this* is?):


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

That looks like a decal applied over a matt/flat paint. It is tiny air bubbles trapped under the decal producing the effect known as* 'silvering'*. As I stated above, the first rule in decaling is: *Never, ever apply a decal to a matt/flat painted surface !*

Decals *MUST* be applied to *GLOSS SURFACES ONLY!* Matt clearcoats may then be applied *OVER* them to return the matt surface.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Some decals are also printed on less-than-clear film, so you see the film on a white or light surface. The Pacifica "decal" actually looks like a sticker to me and not a water slide transfer. Even with stickers you can cut much closer to the printed image so you have less film to see.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

djnick66 said:


> Some decals are also printed on less-than-clear film, so you see the film on a white or light surface. The Pacifica "decal" actually looks like a sticker to me and not a water slide transfer. Even with stickers you can cut much closer to the printed image so you have less film to see.



The Pacifica decal in question is a product of Henry's TSDS sheet for the Flying Sub kit by Mobius , the carrier film is indeed clear on the decal stock he uses. In the photo illustrated it looks like it may have been applied over a flat white finish, although the person posting didn't say specificaly. I was merely replying to what I apparently was observing.


*The 'City Beneath the Sea' Flying Sub decal sheet by TSDS is highly recommended.*


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Oh ok. It looked like an RC race boat with a big sticker.

I used Henry's TSDS decals quite a few times and they respond very well to decal sets and solvents. I know Micro Set/Sol work well, as do Gunze's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener. Even over flat paint (not the best idea) you can get good results using those products. And, cutting closer to the image helps since there is less film.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Agreed, trimming closer to the printed image helps, but applying over a matt/flat paint is *NEVER* a good idea.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Got a quick question ... I have a decal where a drop of whatever landed on part of it and has now dried. Will this be an issue if I use it later if I use it or do I need to replace it?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If you mean the decal sheet got wet before you cut out the decal then it may be ruined. The decal image may have bonded to the backing paper. All you can do is cut it out, soak it in warm water, and see if it will free from the backing paper.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Whats the difference between Micro-Set and Micro-sol?


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

Micto Sol is the 1st of two chemical solutions used together when decaling, it is used first to soften the decal allowing it to become elastic to conform to surface details. Micro set is the 2nd chemical used to 'set' the decal as it dries, and yes...you need both !


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Ductapeforever said:


> The Pacifica decal in question is a product of Henry's TSDS sheet for the Flying Sub kit by Mobius , the carrier film is indeed clear on the decal stock he uses. In the photo illustrated it looks like it may have been applied over a flat white finish, although the person posting didn't say specifically. I was merely replying to what I apparently was observing.
> 
> 
> *The 'City Beneath the Sea' Flying Sub decal sheet by TSDS is highly recommended.*


Yes. It was applied to a flat finish. Definitely "silvering". Newbie mistake. I _*thought*_ I did "gloss-decal-gloss", but I was wrong. 

This particular paint is from the Testor's 2-part lacquer system. (Lacquer primer, lacquer color, decals, then gloss overcoat) I used it for no other reason than to try the lacquer method. 

In conclusion, I use TSDS decal set liquid. It is excellent and goes a long way. 

*I highly recommend all of Henry's products from TSDS.* These decals started out as a "custom" job and he introduced them into his line of products. What an honor! And he used my "Aquafoil" in his ad! He took a crappy photo I sent him and photoshopped in the ocean. Ha!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Ductapeforever said:


> Micto Sol is the 1st of two chemical solutions used together when decaling, it is used first to soften the decal allowing it to become elastic to conform to surface details. Micro set is the 2nd chemical used to 'set' the decal as it dries, and yes...you need both !


Actually you use Micro SET first. Micro SOL is used last. Set is applied to the surface of the model first, and the decal is floated into place on the little puddle of Set. When you get the decal positioned properly, you apply Sol on top of it. Since Sol is the Solvent, it quickly starts to soften the decal ink and film. You shouldnt/can't move decals around after the Sol has been applied since the decal can smear. Once you apply the Sol, its best not to mess with it until the Set evaporates and sucks the decal down into position. Micro Sol comes in a red labeled bottle and I use the red to help remember which is which. Red is the color of STOP lights and STOP signs. So you put it on and STOP.

If you are using Gunze's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener, those actually go on in the reverse of how you apply Micro Sol and Set. According to Gunze's instructions, Mr. Mark Softener goes down first and Mr. Mark Setter goes on top.

Solvaset is a one step solvent and setter. It is very strong (although the current formula has been watered down). To use Solvaset, float the decal into position with a bit of water or Micro Set, then flood the top of the decal with Solvaset, making sure you get the stuff around the edge of the decal too. Again, do not touch, poke or prod the decal after this point.


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Solvaset is my solvent of last resort for thick, stubborn decals. It's *very* strong, and I have watched it completely dissolve thin decals.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

djnick66 said:


> Actually you use Micro SET first. Micro SOL is used last. Set is applied to the surface of the model first, and the decal is floated into place on the little puddle of Set. When you get the decal positioned properly, you apply Sol on top of it. Since Sol is the Solvent, it quickly starts to soften the decal ink and film. You shouldnt/can't move decals around after the Sol has been applied since the decal can smear. Once you apply the Sol, its best not to mess with it until the Set evaporates and sucks the decal down into position. Micro Sol comes in a red labeled bottle and I use the red to help remember which is which. Red is the color of STOP lights and STOP signs. So you put it on and STOP.
> 
> If you are using Gunze's Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener, those actually go on in the reverse of how you apply Micro Sol and Set. According to Gunze's instructions, Mr. Mark Softener goes down first and Mr. Mark Setter goes on top.
> 
> Solvaset is a one step solvent and setter. It is very strong (although the current formula has been watered down). To use Solvaset, float the decal into position with a bit of water or Micro Set, then flood the top of the decal with Solvaset, making sure you get the stuff around the edge of the decal too. Again, do not touch, poke or prod the decal after this point.




You're right, my mistake ! Senior Moment ! LOL!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Ace Airspeed said:


> Solvaset is my solvent of last resort for thick, stubborn decals. It's *very* strong, and I have watched it completely dissolve thin decals.


Unfortunately the formula has been changed (for the worst) although it is still strong, it is not as strong (or good) as it used to be.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

I thought Set was more of a "cleaner/prep" type liquid for the surface?(hence the vinegar smell) Ive used SOL plenty of times without using Set and never had a problem.


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Jafo said:


> Ive used SOL plenty of times without using Set and never had a problem.


Same here. I never use Set.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You can obviously use one or the other but they are designed to be a combination product. Same with Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softener. If you are going to use just one, Sol does the most work, but it can soften and damage a decal before you can get it positioned properly.

The idea wtih Set also is to have something that replaces air under the decal to help prevent silvering.


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## redline hunter (Jan 9, 2008)

The problem I have with Set is it beads up and runs off before I can apply the decal. Any helpful hints on this problem?


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

redline hunter said:


> The problem I have with Set is it beads up and runs off before I can apply the decal. Any helpful hints on this problem?



If your paint has had several days to dry and harden, wash the surface of the plastic with a diluted solution of water and Dawn dishwashing liquid.
However Microset isn't a chemical that will adhere like paint. It is simply a wettind agent.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Ductapeforever said:


> You're right, my mistake ! Senior Moment ! LOL!


Thanks for clearing it all up for me. I have plenty of both but haven't used them yet.


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