# Craftsman Leaf Blower/vac Problem



## SANDMANBB1 (Oct 21, 2005)

I AM TRYING TO FIX THIS FOR A FREIND SO I DO NOT KNOW ALL THE DETAILS. WHEN I RECIEVEID IT IT WOULD START FINE AND RUN GOOD FOR ABOUT 10-15 MIN. THEN IT WOULD DIE AND WOULD NOT RESTART UNTIL IT COOLED OFF. I TORE ALL THE PLASTIC HOUSING OFF IT AND EVERTHING LOOKED GOOD. I THEN ORDERED A CARB KIT FROM SEARS AND REPLACED ALL THE GASKETS AND DIAPRAHMS. NOW IT STARTS AND IDLES GOOD BUT WILL NOT REV UP NO MATER WHERE THE THROTTLE IS. I TRIED ADJUSTING THE MIXTURE NEEDLES AND NOTHING. IF I RUN IT LIONG ENOUGH IT WILL START DRIPPING FUEL FROM THE AIR CLEANER COVER. I REMOVED THE COVER AND HELD MY HAND OVER THE CARB AN INCH AWAY IT GETS COVERED WITH FUEL.IN THE AMOUNT OF TIME I HAVE IN THIS BLOWER THE FACTOR BUILT 7000 OF THE LITTLE THINGS.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

A couple things could make it stop after it is used for 10 min. One is that it was too lean causing the engine to run hot. A second thing could be that the cylinder bolts are loose... grab the aircleaner cover and try to "rock" the cylinder back and forth and see if it moves... another sign is dampness around where the cylinder bolts to the crankcase.

Sounds like now that you either didn't rebuild the carb properly or it is way too rich ( would tend towards the first). These engines will have some spitback since they do not use a reed valve. Start with the needles 1 3/4 turn out from fully closed. That should allow you to get it started and be fairly close to final settings.


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## SANDMANBB1 (Oct 21, 2005)

Thanks Hank I will check these things tonight. All I did to the carb is replace the pumper diaphram and the flaper diaphram and gasket. I find it hard to belive I put these in wrong as they both have pins or a shape to them that makes it impossible to install incorretly. I do agree though with you because it at least ran before I took it apart. should it have enough spitback to make fuel out of it? 

How do I go about adjusting the carb?

Do the head bolts go all the wat to the crank case? I know I checked the head bolts for tightness and the were. But maybe the bolts are froze to the aluminum case.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

adjust the carb the way hank said from all the way in snug it should have adjustment needles, may or may not have the limiter caps on. bolts shouldn't go all the way into the crankcase, you check the tightness with the usual, wiggling it, then try screwing it down with the right tool of course. also it ran good then cut off, and after it cooled for how long did it start right back up? have the coil checked. they can start to fail under heat cutting spark.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Good thinking on the coil. While it doesn't happen often they can open up when they get hot. Bug has the rest of it right too.

They use locktite on the bolts and sometimes with heating and cooling they loosen up but still feel tight. I use a 1/4 rachet and socket on an extended T30 to reach the bolts. I know the bolts are hex but the t30 will fit fine. Then I tighten it using the 1/4 rachet really snug.... sometimes you will find that the locktite breaks loose and you can get another 1/4-1/2 turn on the bolt.

Next, pull the muffler and look at the piston to see if it's scored. If so it'll need rebuilding but you can buy new ones for 80 bucks so it's hardly worth rebuilding them.

You didn't say what model of blower that you have. Gas really shouldn't drip from the air cleaner... sounds like a rich condtion but you say it is idling fine. Make sure you have the "flapper" on the correct side of the gasket... it should be next to the carb with the gasket away from the carb.


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## SANDMANBB1 (Oct 21, 2005)

Thanks guys, I took it all apart to check the cylinder bolts and while doing so I found the problem. When I reassebled it the first time I put the exhaust gasket on backwards. When this happens it pretty much blocks the exhaust port. I can not belive it even started let alone ran. I was pretty sure I did the carb correctly so I was really suprised that I put tha exhaust gasket on backwards. I set both carb adj. screws at 1 3/4 out and it ran fine. I ran it for over a half hour and never quit. i do have a question though. Tthru messing with this thing I noticed if i covet the air outlet it on the bloser tube it raise the engine rpm even with the air cleaner intake removed, why? Thanks agian for all the help and the great forum. I will be back and will also recommend it to others.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Glad to hear you got it running! When you block the outlet (or inlet) the impeller is no longer pushing any air thus there is no resistance on the impeller. You could almost compare it to running in a vacuum. As a note, a blower motor does more work then any other type handheld equipment. No matter what speed it is running it is always working pushing air.


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