# Testor's Model Master, ACRYL or Enamel???



## Snackdaddy (Feb 26, 2012)

Dear J2 Builders,

I just received a Jupiter 2 kit as a gift and the paint chart presents many Testors options.

Out of the Testors Model Master, ACRYL and Enamel, which one, or combination of them, would you recommend for the J2?

Thanks in advance.


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## ryoga (Oct 6, 2009)

Just a heads up if you plan to combine acrylic and enamel. You can apply acrylic over an enamel surface but not vice versa.


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## Snackdaddy (Feb 26, 2012)

ryoga said:


> Just a heads up if you plan to combine acrylic and enamel. You can apply acrylic over an enamel surface but not vice versa.


Thanks a bunch.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I guess everybody's going to just give their preferences. I always preferred enamels, so that's what I always use. A lot of other people swear by acrylics, so... ya know. I guess you should try some of each on a lesser project and see what you like more.


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## Snackdaddy (Feb 26, 2012)

John P said:


> I guess everybody's going to just give their preferences. I always preferred enamels, so that's what I always use. A lot of other people swear by acrylics, so... ya know. I guess you should try some of each on a lesser project and see what you like more.


Hi John P,

Thank you and will do.

All the best.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

You can apply enamel over acrylic. You cannot apply lacquers over acrylic. Also, Testor Acryls are pretty good but they have one major flaw, if you apply them onto an unprimed surface, masking will pull the paint up. This sometimes occurs even with priming, depending on the type of primer used.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

dreadnaught726 said:


> You can apply enamel over acrylic. You cannot apply lacquers over acrylic. Also, Testor Acryls are pretty good but they have one major flaw, if you apply them onto an unprimed surface, masking will pull the paint up. This sometimes occurs even with priming, depending on the type of primer used.


You beat me to it, also you can prime with future floor polish and the acrylic paint will not come up even then.:wave:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

You CAN apply enamel over acrylic and vice versa. Lacquers, which are a different animal, can not be applied over enamel or acrylic, at least by brush painting.

I do not like Testors Acryl so I can't recommend those. Enamels are good to work with. If you have never used any model paints before there are a lot of tricks and tips to getting a good finish. As with any product there is a real learning curve.


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## ryoga (Oct 6, 2009)

:drunk: I stand corrected.


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## Snackdaddy (Feb 26, 2012)

*Thank you*

Thank you all for your expertise. :thumbsup:


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Enamels are easier to work with and the reason I prefer acrylics is because of the ease of cleaning and of course the fumes from enamels, that is to say that I never use enamels because I do on occassion. Priming with Future? Never tried that. I definately plan to try it.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

djnick66 said:


> You CAN apply enamel over acrylic and vice versa. Lacquers, which are a different animal, can not be applied over enamel or acrylic, at least by brush painting.
> 
> I do not like Testors Acryl so I can't recommend those. Enamels are good to work with. If you have never used any model paints before there are a lot of tricks and tips to getting a good finish. As with any product there is a real learning curve.


You can apply enamel over lacquer though, correct? I am about to start painting a kit after many years away from painting anything, so I just want to make sure.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Yes you can apply enamel over lacquer just make sure the lacquer is totally dried/cured.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

dreadnaught726 said:


> Yes you can apply enamel over lacquer just make sure the lacquer is totally dried/cured.


Thanks so much!


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## RMC (Aug 11, 2004)

*I use acryl because if you make a mistake the acryl is much easier to remove than enamel:tongue:*


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

As for lacquers over acrylics as a modeling faux pas...I overspray all my models, painted with Testors Acryl, with Testors Dullcote and Glosscote lacquers with no problems. That's out of the rattlecans.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

irishtrek said:


> You beat me to it, also you can prime with future floor polish and the acrylic paint will not come up even then.:wave:


Can some one help me better understand this? I would think Future, with it's high gloss, would make a horrible primer, no?


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

In all my years of model building I started out with enamels and in 1987 I bought a Finescale Modeler magazine. It had an article saying that Acrylics may change our hobby and they sure have. For the better I might add, I love the Testor Acryl and Polly Scale Best. Both hand brush superb once you get the hang of them and can be cleaned up with soap and water. Enamels are fine but Acrylics are just as good and clean much easier.


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## raymac1 (Sep 19, 2005)

I`ve been model building for over 50 years and can tell you that almost any thing will work well if you learn the good and bad points of each. If you are just starting out or been at it a while, check out "OLD MAN`S MODELS". Donn Yost out in western Pa. has an excellent video on airbrushing an using testors paint. Less than $20, I got it last fall and when followed produces an awesome result. hope this helps


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Peacefield said:


> Can some one help me better understand this? I would think Future, with it's high gloss, would make a horrible primer, no?


Not sure exactly how it works but a few weeks ago I airbrushed something with Future and then with the Testors MM acrilyc and after it had dried I went to see if the paint would come off with masking tape but unstead it did NOT come off!! The only thing I can think of is when you airbrush Future it dries with a sticky finish and the paint just won't let go.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I will definately try Future as a primer. I use acrylics almost exclusively and Testors acryl is the only one I have trouble masking. I have never had much luck using Future as a gloss coat but this might work.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I used Testor's rattle-can German Silver, or whatever the directions said. Enamel all the way, including Testor's gray enamel primer. I think the color and texture turned out better than my Polar Lights J2. I used Tamiya Silver on that one, but it was too light and too smooth. 

But I'm a rattle-can dumb-dumb.

A recent picture, with low budget folded cardboard insert experiment:


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

What works for me: Lacquer rattle-can primer (usually tamiya) over the bare plastic. 

Then airbrush acrylic (usually testors, sometimes tamiya) over the primed plastic. 

The lacquer goes on really nice, gives you a good base coat. The acrylic 'bites' into the lacquer and adheres way better than it does to bare plastic. With a lacquer primer I have no problem with masking and then having part of the tape come up when I lift up the tape. 

If you don't have an airbrush yet look into Iwata - save yourself the cost of future upgrades.


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

Peacefield said:


> Can some one help me better understand this? I would think Future, with it's high gloss, would make a horrible primer, no?


Yeah, I'm very skeptical about this. 

Is the future thinned? Airbrushed on with high pressure, low, medium? One coat or multiple thin coats? 

I just cannot imagine future adhering to bare plastic well enough to make a primer.


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