# New guy



## jmorris (Jan 21, 2010)

Hello, new guy here. had an AFX track back in the 70s now Im building a 4 LN Tomy track. Built a 4x11ft table, painted it and am now in the process of trying to decide how I want to mount the track. I have glued some sections together, but was pondering of gluing track to table with silicone or screwing it down or both. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim


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## Jerzferno (Aug 19, 2007)

How long you planning on keeping this layout the same? Keep it as temporary as you can if you plan on changing it.


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## basement racer (Jan 22, 2010)

either method will work just fine.Do a couple of temp layouts to find the one you like best first,then use either one.if you use silicone use if sparingly.It will be easier to clean off if you decide to change layout later.
basement racer


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

*Track suggestion..*

I would consider some kind of "sound-proofing" underneath, such as styrofoam.. I don't think the TOMY has "holes" for screws, so a little hot glue at critical points may be required (if not at "all-points"). My Max is on outdoor "grass" carpet, but that's mainly "esthetics". I don't know if it would make more noise without it, since the track is solid and not hollow like most sectional track. But I would imagine if it sat directly against the wood surface, it would not be a "plus". There are some great track builders on this forum, read all that your time allows.


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## jmorris (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks, I have been changing layouts for several days,weeks ect. finally decided on the Scenic Hills from hoslotcaracing.com. Though it is 11ft instead of 8 and slightly modified, I believe this layout will have good visual appeal with some landscaping and good for racing. Jim


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## slotnewbie69 (Dec 3, 2008)

greg braun has a very in depth tutorial on track construction.he uses a countersink to enlarge the nail holes in the track and hemosoteboard underneath to eliminate clackity clack.then he flushes screws into the track to secure it.jumper wires may also be soldered at the gluing phase to ensure even power transfer.these are just small stiff wires soldering the electrical connections.of course,if you do this,it will take practice to do it right,so that steamer trunk of 9"curves we all end up with would be a good way to practice soldering your jumpers.i believe his site is hoslotcarracing.com.he recommends doing it section by section,prefabbing the major track features,and then connecting all the preassemblies .


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

I countersunk and added a few holes to my Tomy track. Some of the 15" straights are bowed up and needed another screw in the middle. I also added a center hole to the 9" 1/4 radius curves. I special ordered small flat head screws from the local hardware store (#2 x 3/4" I think).

Make sure you remove the locking nubs/bumps from the locking tabs or you will have speed bumps anywhere the pieces don't fit together exactly right.

With the nub removal and countersinking, just prepping the track was a lot of work. I had it setup on an patio carpert I found at Lowe's. It is like the carpet used for indoor RC cars that run on carpet, but has a black backing. It was great before the track was screwed down. After screwing the track down, it was noticably louder.

I purchased enough of the rubber border that Greg Braun sells to border the turns only to eventually conclude that the "rug" was not soild enough to hold the border material properly. 

It late. I'll think of more tomorrow.


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Screwing the track down will make it louder as the screws transfer the sound directly to the board underneath. :freak:

Todd



twolff said:


> ......It was great before the track was screwed down. After screwing the track down, it was noticably louder......


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

A layer of rubber backed indoor/outdoor between the track and your table will help quiet things. Some times you see deals on the stuff at bargain outlet or surplus stores.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

jmorris said:


> trying to decide how I want to mount the track. I have glued some sections together, but was pondering of gluing track to table with silicone or screwing it down or both. Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim


Don't. I use track borders to keep my track in place, and let the track "float".
This works good if your track is in an area where the temp may range a bit.
I also used soundproofing board for the table surface. It's quiet.
It's like, 8 bucks a 4x8 sheet at Lowes or Home Depot.
You can look for my Tomy track in this section under 'Ventura Highway'

Rich
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars :thumbsup:


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

I like the outdoor patio rug when I don't have the track screwed down. It is much better than a painted wood product when the track is screwed down. But, I think attempting to fasten the borders to the rug is going to be a waste of time.

Without borders Tomy track is really only useful as a two lane layout. So plan for borders from the start.

Ther border/rug issue caused me to seriously investigate a routed track. The guys that get $1k plus for tracks get back to you right away. The others, not so much. I've got a CAD drawing of a layout, and no one I've talked to with access to a CNC table is intrested in getting paid to route it. Used tracks seem to always be either too far away or made of gold. I simply do not have a grand to sink into a 4x8 or 5x10 size layout.

Barring a routed track falling into my lap, I'll probably inlay my Tomy track into the rug and then inlay the borders and move on to the running, tuning, and modeling aspects of the hobby.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Once you try the track on a carpet, you'll never go back. I just used some left over carpet from doing my basement. Nice tight weave and one of the cheapest available.

And as mentioned above, if you put it on a carpet, don't screw it down through to the wood surface. The sound will transfer directly down to the board and it will sound as if the carpet isn't even there.

Joe


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

How do you border a track setup like that? Gluing the border to the edge of the track is all I can come up with.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I suppose you could use Velcro to attach borders to the carpet. Attach one part to the carpet with fabric/upholstery glue and the other part to the border material. A stiff border material like Masonite or MDF or rigid foam would probably work well.


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

I'm using the "rubber" borders that Greg Braun sells. One advantage/disadvantage is that it is already about the same thickness as Tomy track.

When the track is screwed down over a outdoor carpet (for example) the carpet is compressed and the borders are too tall unless they are screwed down such that the carpet beneath them is compressed. The border is not rigid enough and winds up wavy between the screws when I do that.

Getting a thought now that leaving the track floating in the carpet and loosely screwing down the border may work. The borders would keep the track from shifting excessivly. That would be a good idea if Tomy track was flat enough to leave floating. I've got a few hump tracks and slightly banked turns. Crud.


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