# Some more pics



## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

Here's some pics I thought I should post.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

that quattro needs a new deck, but yes its a murray and thats the same style as mine. and they do cut great but damn he left that outside its whole life, needs a new deck no rebuilt, new one. if you do manage to get the rear back on it'll cut like crap, engine looks good but needs cleaning up, and make sure the oil's good and the combustion chambers clean. i bet it'll need it. aw man that pisses me off when people leave em like that, mine el last 5 more years or more deck wise cutting alot of grass. of course i keep it up good.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

My new lawn-boy has cut it's first lawn today. It cut great. The rwd worked great. Just the right speed. The grass was a little damp. I wonder why? It's dry around here. I had to scrape off the wet grass from under the deck. If anybody gets one of these, beware of the low back end of it. It's hard to get it into my yard cart. The back end is longer than the rear wheels. But other than that it cuts nice.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

most likely dew, but yeah good luck with it, should get a couple years out of it maybe. but a good oil to use which i bet grumpy will always disagree, use some good castrol syntec or synthetic blend. you'll be guaranteed less oil changes and longer engine life.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

My lawn mower expert (jon) said supertech hd 30 and a autolite 458. I going to start working on the scotts this weekend. And I found a good murray 22" deck with a broken 3.75 sprint. It's missing a wheel. I have the wheels from the other murray deck are good. The trick is that the bolts that hold the quattro on the deck are REAL hard to get off. My dad said to put some kind of stuff that loosens it up.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

sure he's a expert, yeaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh. ok sure, um wd-40 is probablly what your dad used, reason why they are hard to get off is due in fact ot the steel bolts used to hold the wheel on and the steel nuts as well. and don't use wal-mart crap, i used it one time and it got filthy quick, yeah he's an expert alright, 15w-40 in the freezing weather, want it to last, use a good synthetic blend 10W-30 oil, its the all around good oil to use. yes autolite 458 is right, of course i use em, guess where he got that from, thats a good plug to give good cold starting and performs good under very high heat.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

hmmmmmn. What is the best detergent oil for a tec and briggs quantum?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

one that is not high in detergent but rather half way detergent and regular oil, best way you can do it, buy a quart of synthetic 10w-30 oil and a bottle of regular high detergent 10w-30 oil and go half and half. doesn't matter which detergent they all clean the inside of the engine from grime, but to tell you synthetic doesn't leave much deposits and it lasts longer under high heat, like i said again, i'm sure grumpy will disagree >(jon).


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

synthetic blends dont actually have enough synthetic oil in them to give you any benifits, and syntec is a class 3 synthetic, basically a highly refined dino oil


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

see told you scott, disagree all the time. oh syntec is a highly refined oil with man made polymers to withstand high temps and not burn off. so its way better then regular oil, synthetic blends do give you better performance since they contain half and half but i'm sure 15w-40 will always disagree


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

grrrrrrrr. I'm getting the supertech!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

ok, just don't want to see your mower blow up is all.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

well!!!!!!!!!!!!!! since your going with your so called mower expert, you need to talk to bbnissan for a few minutes. but what ever you go for do use a high detergent 10w-30 motor oil. i do recommend synthetic because you will get more years out of the mower but listen to grumpy and have it last 2 years. i used now hd oil in my 3.5 for a year, well it was name brand pennzoil, well i tried that hd wal-mart crap, which i knew the mower was clean inside, well lets see, it burned off quick and it dirty'ed up quick and i switched back to the pennzoil till now and it stayed clean and didn't burn off. hd both now, sure grumpy will also have something to say about that but i'm not one for cheap crap. want it to last use a good synthetic oil, want it last you a good amount of time use half and half, want to have it wear out in a couple years of use, use regular crappy oil. and not what jon uses, 15w-40 oil in the winter, its like molasses. 10w-30 is basically rated by all car and engine manufacturers to be good for cold to hot temp ranges, oh and castrol syntec, well lets seeeeee, yes it is a class 3, it is a highly refined motor oil, which basically means it has all of the bad properties gone, and it is mostly now man made polymers that withstand very high heat, such as a mower is used to, and it doesn't break down and gum up. wonder if he knows what royal purple is made from, because that is a full on synthetic oil. castrol syntec and royal purple are made basically for high heat, and have been used for races, drag races etc that burn methanol and have very high heat engines.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I wanted to stay out of this mess, but I can't stand it any more...

roperdude91, I suggest you go to an engineering school and take a course in tribology before you start arguing about what you DON'T know about motor oil. For starters, lets get something straight once and for all: conventional motor oil and synthetic motor oil both come from crude oil! The difference is that conventional motor oil is seperated by the distillation process based on the weight of the majority of the molecules in the oil, while synthetic oil is created by chemically altering highly refined conventional motor oil in order to obtain a uniform molecular size. This brings up one of the most important aspects of the conventional vs. synthetic debate: because of the processes used to create conventional motor oil, it is inherently more contaminated than a synthetic oil. By contaminated, I mean it has oil molecules of several different weights and it is more likely to contain sediment particles.

The other difference between conventional and synthetic is the additive package. Synthetics have more polymer additives to reduce friction, reduce temperatures, broaden the temperature range it can be used in, increase it's ability to neutralize acids, and increase it's ability to suspend contaminants. There is no point in arguing this part...synthetics are have superior characteristics because they have a superior additives. This is why they run synthetic oils in jet engines, steam turbines, and hydro electric turbines. If they used regular motor oil in these applications you would have planes falling out of the sky left and right.


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## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

I wanted to stay out of this mess, also lol good post bb , also you should be using straight 30 anyway , man just put opti in it


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yep either straight 30 or 10w-30 or 10w-40. basically all are the best to be using for a small engine or any higher then normal engine, such as a v8 engine. thats why i am gonna use 10w-30 syntec. because i have already seen a big difference in performance over regular oil.

go to page one..........


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

supertech is made by exxon/mobil


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

not made as good as their name brands


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

oh yeah just like bb said, and i know as well, its the oil exxon/mobil don't want to put in their bottles, hense it is the left overs and not as good.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

I REALLY NEED AN ANSWER! I need to change the oil because I want to break the engine in right. What is the total best oil for a tec that will help it last? That's all I want to know. Right now, I have pennzoil and am wondering what is better.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

that was my answer!!!!!! a good synthetic like castrol syntec mixed with a high detergent oil, (name brand of course) oil for a briggs is oil for a tec, it can be used in any engine, also if you can find it use some marvel mystery oil in the gas. it keeps the rings free and oils the bore. an d pennzoil is very good anyway.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

what does super tech have that's bad?


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## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

, I have pennzoil and am wondering what is better.



in my opinion mudd would be better than pennzoil , pennzoil is the wonder oil i wonder how long it will last if i put it in my engine


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

supertech is left over oil. packaged and sold in walmart labels. pennzoil scrench is good oil, mud would be better???? no it would be idiotic, i have used only 5w-30 pennzoil in the winter time in my murray 8, since i generally like to play around with it, and well i look everywhere, internally, bore etc, and there is no wear. personally pennzoil is good oil but not the cheaper versions of it, mainly what i use is havoline or castrol. like i stated castrol syntec half and half with a good high detergent name brand oil. personally i have seen no problems with pennzoil, and thats me seeing lots of people use it and me use it, but i only use the 5w-30 pennzoil oil.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

Scott15 said:


> I REALLY NEED AN ANSWER! I need to change the oil because I want to break the engine in right. What is the total best oil for a tec that will help it last? That's all I want to know. Right now, I have pennzoil and am wondering what is better.


If you want my opinion...put in Castrol or Valvoline SAE30 or HD30 motor oil.


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## scrench (Dec 8, 2004)

havoline is even worse than pennz bug man , i seen an oil test done once i cant remember what they called it but this machine would spin a ball bearing about as big arround as a nickle @ a high rpm the dude running the machine would drip one drop of oil on the ball before he flicked the switch . he showed us what oil would last the longest and and what oil was the worst but then agian that was like 10 years ago i will say that valvoline came in second to the oil he was pushing to sell ... the ole havoline and pennz no thanks , valvoline all the way for me ,


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yeah years ago, years ago i never used it, i mainly used what i knew was good, mainly castrol or quakerstate etc. now they all must conform to the standards of today, generally when i'm pouring i look for contaminents, so far yet from using those oils now i havn't seen nothing. plus i am right now in the process of switching to valvoline and castrol, since i generally just like to change every now and then and after this time will stick to them both. most likely the oil he was pushing was sae. i always watch it as it poured, i'm cautious like that even now.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

hmmmmn. Yeah. I'm going to stick with the pennzoil.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

good because really all oil must conform to a set standard these days. oh and i do beleive pennzoil makes a synthetic, i never really read the bottle but they make it now. oh and p.s. buy some marvel mystery oil, you put it in the gas and oil and it extends the engines life from keeping the oil from gumming etc. and it lubes the bore and valves and carb through the gas. its some great stuff to prolong it even more. even keeps the rings free and prevents deposit build up.


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

bugman said:


> yeah years ago, years ago i never used it, i mainly used what i knew was good, mainly castrol or quakerstate etc. now they all must conform to the standards of today, generally when i'm pouring i look for contaminents, so far yet from using those oils now i havn't seen nothing. plus i am right now in the process of switching to valvoline and castrol, since i generally just like to change every now and then and after this time will stick to them both. most likely the oil he was pushing was sae. i always watch it as it poured, i'm cautious like that even now.


when i pour ST oil, i dont see anything except for well, oil i got a quart of exxon hd30 and poured it into the statesman, looked the same, hell they even smell the same :drunk:


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

if i do an oil change in the mitsubishi 3 liter and the tick goes away with another oil, whatever oil ou tell me then i will believe you and drain the supertech from my equipment.
the vans got supertech in it right now and a supertech filter. if you want me to then tell me what oil and filter you want me to use and if the tick stops after it then ok.
the heads have been resurfaced, valveguides replaced and clipped, and gaskets and pcv system replaced
ive still got the upper end engine tick, its the valves, lifters or something else i dunno


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

fram filter with a good 10w-30 castrol gtx high mileage oil or maybe 10w-40, or which ever wieght the engine calls for, oh and yeah i did try that marvel mystery oil, its actually great stuff, acts like a oil detergent and it lubes the valves etc and keeps the rings free and lubes the bore. if you can get a fram double guard filter, because they are very good. usually a engine oil like high mileage oil will sometimes by itself make the ticking go away. it has ingredients to recondition the seals. some are high detergent any way to clean the engine. out good, and try some stp gas treatment that'll clean the valves as well, that may help a little more, just sounds like they are closing a little too tightly to me. this may or may not stop the ticking, from what was done to it i doubt it will stop it much from the way it was abused.


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

calls for 5w30, i will use gastrol gtx5w30 and a fram filter, if it ticks then i will change back cuz i garuntee you that it will gimme london fog all day with the 5w30


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

well then use a heavier oil, like i said it might not stop it at all, you maybe should use 10w-30 or 40. because it was abused like it was


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

i lost oil pressure bugman
ive got none


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

sure it isn't the gauge screwed up, or it may be the pump went bad.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

Whatever. Bugman, What do you put the marvel mystery in, the gas or the oil?

I have a pull string but need my dad's tools to fix it. The scott's also needs a new fuel line because it's cracked and can smell gas.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

the marvel stuff goes in both, i know i know it sounds wierd and stupid but in the gas it lubes the carb and the valves and bore of the engine, in the oil it keeps the rings free, keeps acid from forming in the oil that eats at the metal and it prevents gum, its great stuff, i had the murray 8 that had a sticky float and had already did a rebuild but it still stuck, i used the marvel stuff and its done great, plus a carb adjustment with it. it just prevents wear on stuff and it also cleans the combustion chamber out and keeps valves sealing good. good luck with the pull string you'll need it with the recoil pulley. but after you get it out reverse the disassembly process, as for fuel lines go to a small engine shop and buy that yellow targon fuel line, no clips needed for install since it goes on tight and it lasts a lot longer then regular rubber line.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

Question. I have used my new lawn-boy three times. Should I change the oil now? I have some pennzoil that I used for my yard-man and has worked good. I think I'll pass on the super tech.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yeah you should go ahead and change it since the first oil in it will dirty quick due to the assembly lube etc.


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