# Have some questions....hope you have answers



## GenevaDirt (Feb 18, 2011)

First ,
I recently acquired an AFX Super International Speedway. It was only run once and then put away. I have it all set up and everything is great....except once in a while the controllers will start to smell. They have an over heated electrical smell that come from them. I have not narrowed down to any certain car making it do it. But I was wondering if this is normal or if I should replace the controllers? 

Second,
was wondering what you guys know about 440x3 armatures. Saw some for sale and was wondering if they really are 440x3 arms or something someone made,also do they make a difference worth putting them in a car?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400188403309?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Third,
can anyone tell me about the differences in these two chassis and if they are worth the money....or can I buy the parts somewhere and make my own...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310509503478?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

and 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221156384464?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

thanks in advance for looking


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Hi, I can only comment on the first two questions. The heat smell from the controller is indeed from overheating. It sounds like you have one car that maybe pulling too many amps, or is bogging down from too strong of traction magnets ? You might want to look into that before your fry the controller ?
As for the Tyco 440x3 arm, well.... I have several, that I installed in my Mattyco Jeremy McGrath MX bikes, and for that application, their added torque with my extra strong traction magnets, really made them accelerate faster, and since I didn't use long straight-a-ways, they were better for MY application. But if High top speed is important to you, you probably should pass them bye, as they are Toquey, but very top end limited in speed.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Stay away from Neo cars till you build a good track.
They won't run worth crap on a stock AFX track set-up,and will burn up parts faster then you can buy them,especially if you're using a stock Tomy wallwart,even the tri-power wallwart isn't enough power,you need a good power supply to run them,not wallwarts.
Also if you're buying a Neo car,don't touch it unless it's got bearings in it,and preferably steel or brass gears.
Those cars listed will eat parts like there's no tomorrow,and unless you like constantly fixing and repairing them i'd stay away from them.
A neo car needs long straights to get the rpm's up so it'll cool itself,a short twisty track won't let the cars rpm out,and heat will kill the cars in short order.
A DC motor like what we're using needs rpm to cool itself:thumbsup:
Don't do the newbee thing,and try to run something that you're not set up to run properly
Just my .02 on the cars

As far as the smell out of the controllers,that's pretty normal from stock controllers if your running faster then normal cars,that's also a clue,you're not ready for Neo cars.
First things first,build a decent semi-permenant track,then start investing in good power supplies and good controllers,then buy a yourself some fast cars
To run a fast Neo car,you'll want to step "WAY" up on the controllers,not just to a Parma,but up into the high dollar electronic end of controllers.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

on the neo tyco, without a brace system, I am not a big fan of neo based tyco's.

Plus I could be blind, but so saw no ohm ratings on the motor in the car.
plus, your set controllers most likely will not work with it.

depending on the arm, tire height etc.., u may need a 4 to 15ohm parma controller to drive it


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## smokinHOs (May 30, 2006)

*Neos..*

Without stepping on anyone's toes the "Neo" cars you listed are hot garbage. 
First of all it's another Ebay seller gimmick. The car looks to be a stock cheap newer version of the $5 Mattel chassis with the following add-ons:

Silver Shoes, slip-on rear silicones, matched ceramic motor mags, a balanced arm, and neo traction mags. That does not make the car a Neo car. A fully race prepped drop in Neo car runs over $100.

The sum of the parts on that car might be $25 including the chassis he started with.

It may or may not run well on your home track. The trick is to get enough pull from the Neo traction mags to hold the car down but not too low to burn up the arm trying to overcome the magnet pull. 

The whole deal is that you can take ANY Tyco or Tomy SG+ and make these changes for about $15-20. OR you can just lower your existing cars with double flange rims/tires and play with things like independent fronts and gear ratios to tweak a car, versus slapping some Neo tractions and a balanced stock arm and calling it good. You get what you pay for.

Honestly- I have seriously considered building cars like these because they are cheap to build and initially seem to run well. People buy them thinking they are getting super cool fast track sticker cars or whatever they sell them as.

However- my conscience got the best of me and I decided I can't sell crap like that to the new people coming into the hobby and feel good about it.

So how do I really feel..? LOL

-Marc and Marcus


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## smokinHOs (May 30, 2006)

*Tyco Neos*

Almost forgot to mention. The builder has 40 years of builder experience but everything he mentions on his build sheet is standard, like getting the shoe contact flat, spacing the arm, etc..

Funny thing is that one of the weakest parts of the Tyco chassis is the rear crown gear that will never hold up to racing conditions and he didn't upgrade it. Another weakness on the stock Tyco chassis is the stock hubs. They are almost never perfectly centered and again... how do you keep silicone slip-on rear tires on a standard rim? Answer- you don't. That's why racers use double-flange rear hubs or use silicone coated sponge press-on tires.

And as a previous poster listed, what's the Rocket, Blue Goose, Devil's Spit (or whatever he called it) arm run for ohms? Kinda important thing to note considering that anything under 6 ohms pushes the limits of a standard home track power supply. 

BTW- One does have sliver plated shoes, the other looks to be stock copper...

-Marc and Marcus


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Yeah.... what these guys said.


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## GenevaDirt (Feb 18, 2011)

well thank you guys....thats why I asked before I did anything. I did not want to throw away money on crappy stuff. I will just keep building my collection for now and worry about the other stuff when I grow up. I also need to decide on a track setup so I can make it permanent. I want bigger for sure and I have no clue what I want for a final design. Plus I want to build a drag strip so........I will worry about the other things later. 

Thanks


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

RED ROCKET ARMATURE ??


so does he make his own arms has anyone else used these arms?

took another look! he re-bent the the stock shoes it seems.

the neo mags cost $1 or less

side note, with super tires, you can use single flange rims, they are not coming off.


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## TEAM D.V.S. (Nov 11, 2007)

Geneva i am sure you could find some ideals here.

http://slotters.weebly.com/index.html


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## Rick Carter (Dec 2, 2008)

Marc,

You just cost me the 2013 HOPRA Nats title in Neo Mod because I was JUST getting ready to by one and practice with it on my figure 8 with the glow in the dark guard rails. Talkin' 'bout the grinch that stole Christmas. Thanks -LOL!

Rick,

So are you saying that my Aurora thumb controllers wouldn't work with this type of car????

Next thing I'll hear is that Mike King is typing term papers for 2nd semester Yale students!


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