# Making a none cutway 22 inch AMT Enterprise model build



## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A few weeks ago I was watching the old Star Trek series,and got the idea of building the Enterprise 1701. I saw a lot of great builds on this model in HobbyTalk. I am very late on getting on this subject, but I thought that I would post a few build pictures as I moved along. The reason I chose the 22 inch model was because this size worked better for a display in my room. The polar lights 1/350 is a very nice model,and it is very accurate that I seem on a lot of posts. But I really do not have the room. I did buy two kits on ebay. One is the new AMT round two kit, and a older Amt 22 inch kit. After I looked over the two kits,I noticed The new round two model is made from a green plastic, A very nice kit which can be made into the cutway model or a full complete model. The older kit is all the same but it is made from a stiffer gray plastic. I liked this plastic better as it seems stronger. The windrows are molded in the parts,but are not in the right locations,which means you still have to fill in all the windrows and cut new ones. I chose the Round Two secondary hull as it had a smooth surface making easier to mark out the new windrows locations.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The first picture is the new AMT round two model kit. the next picture is the older AMT kit. They are both the same ,just a difference in the plastic color.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new AMT secondary hull. No windrows molded in, The model is molded in a light green plastic color.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The older secondary hull. Molded in a gray and to me a stronger plastic. But does have the windrows molded in.( Even if they are in the wrong locations)


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The first thing was to work on the secondary hull, Working from plans and photos on the internet was very help full. Also I read about other builders from past years that have built this model on hobby talk. This was a great help







,as they talked about all the areas of the ship that needed to be reworked. There are some very outstanding works of art of this model that people have done thru the years. If mine turns out only have of good I will be happy! The windrows were drawn out on the model by using a pencil and straight edge. This toke a lot of work and time to try to get them placed in right locations. this was the first picture taken of the markings. this also was redone after this picture was taken,because this did not look right. But it was a place to start.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The secondary hull was cut in front of the dorsal to give it the needed length like the 11 footer.


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## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

Looks like you're off to a good start


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

subtoair said:


> The secondary hull was cut in front of the dorsal to give it the needed length like the 11 footer.
> View attachment 307265


Good catch! Not sure if many know about the need to lengthen the secondary hull at the front with this kit, so well done. You’re off to a great start.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Very nice so far, looking forward to this one, for a few reasons not the least of which is, I started on an identical project a few years back but never got back to it. I got Don Matthy's (RIP) resin upgrade parts and was underway re-cutting all the port holes, too, just like you. And I was trying to figure out how to better extend the front of the secondary hull, looks like you've got it conquered nicely...please continue to post.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Looking good 👍
A lot of work you are in for (trust me) don't forget to add extra support on the pylons!!!
Do you plan on lighting her up?









Cutaway Enterprise







www.hobbytalk.com




Please keep posting pics.
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I want to light up the model if possible. It is a lot of work cutting all the windrows, I guess I have a kind of a labor of love for the ship. Your are right Jim G.G It will need a armature for the model I was thinking of soldering a small brass armature running from the top of the inside of the bottom of the saucer, down the dorsal and the running down the inside of the secondary back. From there I thought about running small square brass tubing up the struts for support. Everthing would be silver soldered together. I don,t know if this will work, but for now it is just a idea. Here is a few more pictured.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A strip of plastic was added to the front on the dorsal. The angle of the dorsal looked like it had to sharp of a angle. The plastic strips were glued to the front of the dorsal,then sanded down to a taper on the top. This seem to get the front of the dorsal to look more like the angle real ship. Anyway it was closer.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Looking forward to your progress. I haven’t seen many of these built and you are really putting forth a good effort to accurize it.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Back to the project a little today. I noticed this morning when I sat the bottom saucer on top of the dorsal today, It seems like the front of the saucer had a slight down angle. Putting a straight edge against the front of the secondary hull to make sure everything was straight up and down and level. My lower saucer did have a down angle. After looking at the top of the dorsal surface I could see it was not level. The height of the dorsal was also to short, so a spacer was made to fit on top of the dorsal to correct this.







The spacer was a little under 1/8 inch thick. The spacer was made with a upper taper toward the front. This leveled up the saucer real nice when attached to the secondary hull. It maybe this little flaw was just on my model,and not in other people kits,I don,t know.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Spacer installed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The body of the secondary hull was a little short.I added a 6/32 spacer in front of the rear engine up rights would attach. I should have taken pictures but I forgot to do this thinking that I had all ready done it. Here is a shot after the hull is back together,and in primer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Primed and sanded.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

subtoair said:


> Back to the project a little today. I noticed this morning when I sat the bottom saucer on top of the dorsal today, It seems like the front of the saucer had a slight down angle. Putting a straight edge against the front of the secondary hull to make sure everything was straight up and down and level. My lower saucer did have a down angle. After looking at the top of the dorsal surface I could see it was not level. The height of the dorsal was also to short, so a spacer was made to fit on top of the dorsal to correct this.
> View attachment 307290
> The spacer was a little under 1/8 inch thick. The spacer was made with a upper taper toward the front. This leveled up the saucer real nice when attached to the secondary hull. It maybe this little flaw was just on my model,and not in other people kits,I don,t know.


If I remember right , mine had the same problem.
I filled the gap with J B WELD. Did the same thing with other gaps as well. Used Tenax 7 R to fuse the styrene together, especially the saucer sections.
You're doing GREAT with this build!
Hopefully this link will motivate you even more:






Modeler's Miniatures & Magic







www.modelermagic.com





- Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Wow!!! that is a very beautiful build Jim! If mine turns out half that good I will be happy. I really like the paint colors.The light gray was always my favorite color for this model. What did you use to bond the saucer halves together,Tenax 7 R ? I never thought of using JB weld for the seams,I will have to try this next time. Your lighting looks great. Were did you get the lights for the warp engines? Sorry for all the questions,but you model look just like the 11 footer. This is what makes this hobby so fun is hearing from people and there seeing there builds. This does motivate me more now.Thanks for posting your pictures!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Looks great! 👍 I like your attention to detail in the proportions. That really makes a difference in the final look of the ship. I've been piddling around with the same kit and had to sculpt a bridge and teardrop module.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

subtoair said:


> Wow!!! that is a very beautiful build Jim! If mine turns out half that good I will be happy. I really like the paint colors.The light gray was always my favorite color for this model. What did you use to bond the saucer halves together,Tenax 7 R ? I never thought of using JB weld for the seams,I will have to try this next time. Your lighting looks great. Were did you get the lights for the warp engines? Sorry for all the questions,but you model look just like the 11 footer. This is what makes this hobby so fun is hearing from people and there seeing there builds. This does motivate me more now.Thanks for posting your pictures!


Very pleased that you like it.
I used a combination of Tenax 7-R 








Amazon.com: Tenax 7R Styrene Tack It II-Single 1 Ounce Bottles : Arts, Crafts & Sewing


Amazon.com: Tenax 7R Styrene Tack It II-Single 1 Ounce Bottles : Arts, Crafts & Sewing



www.amazon.com








__





Amazon.com : tenax 7 r






www.amazon.com




, J B WELD, and Bondo for the seams. As far as the lights, I used LEDs that was on a wire strand of 10. The nacelles were lit up with a separate kit that was made for the Cutaway. I bought it a long time ago from Don's Light & Magic. I don't believe he's in business anymore since he passed away late last year.
If there's anything that I can do to help, please feel free to ask.
Thank you again for the compliment and the opportunity to be some kind of help.
-Jim G.G.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Don’s lighting kit was designed by me way back when. There are newer options, though, like Tenacontrols.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

RossW said:


> Don’s lighting kit was designed by me way back when. There are newer options, though, like Tenacontrols.


I didn't know that.
Great job!
They still work after all these years.  
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Jeff at JP Graphics told me awhile back about the Tenacontrols I don,t know if they will work in the 22 inch model or not. I will have to look into this later on. Does anyone know if somebody might still make accurate replacement parts for this model? This would save me a lot of work from scratch building the bridge etc.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Looks like only Don's Light Magic had the only one.

But JT GRAPHICS has only a couple to offer. Scroll down to the bottom of the page.





__





1/537 Resin Parts






www.jt-graphics.com





-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks, Jim for the help. I did not know that JP Graphics made this parts. I can use some of these pieces for my build.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

subtoair said:


> Thanks, Jim for the help. I did not know that JP Graphics made this parts. I can use some of these pieces for my build.


You're welcome.
I know that it's not much but I hope it helps.
-Jim G.G.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Update by chance?
-Jim G.G.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

IIRC, the shuttlebay hangar door area is also a little "smushed in." The deck needs to come out a little. The hangar doors are useless and can be replaced by one of the clear Bussard halves (1/4 sphere) on the cutaway nacelle and lines penciled on or engraved.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks for telling me about the landing deck,I never noticed that the AMT model was a little to short. After looking at the pictures on the internet I decided to make the deck on my model a little longer this afternoon. I will post some more pictures soon. Thanks for the help PerfesserCoffee!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Yeah, man. No problem. I'm assuming you've got solid replacements for the Bussard collector hemispheres--or at least for the one that's cut in half (do the recent kits offer an option?).



subtoair said:


> Thanks for telling me about the landing deck,I never noticed that the AMT model was a little to short. After looking at the pictures on the internet I decided to make the deck on my model a little longer this afternoon. I will post some more pictures soon. Thanks for the help PerfesserCoffee!


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> (do the recent kits offer an option?).


Where's the profit in that? Lol😁
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

It would be nice if the new round 2 kits offer a extra a extra complete clear bussard collector, but it don,t. I do have the extra kit on hand which will solve the problem.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I have progress pictures that have been taken thru the last few weeks. Thought that I better post them before I get to far behind. Thru the last month of building this secondary hull, I been finding more areas that are not accurate. One was the front censor dish. To the pictures and plans that I had,the dish looked to flat. It needed more of a steeper angle. To do this .030 plastic strips were wrapped around the larger size of the dish. one of the strips was glue to the larger top of the dish,a second one below it. The second ring was a guide to apply the body filler. This would work as a depth gauge.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The body filler was carefully







added around the dish,making sure to follow the lower plastic ring for a even depth. The dish was then mounted on a lathe.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The second ring was to be removed with the lathe, which did not work at all. The dish came loose on the lathe,and put a chip in the third ring.The only way to remove the ring with a dremel tool. This was a real pain to do without hitting the third rind. After a half hour I did get the ring removed without hurting







the dish or third ring.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Looking good 👍.
Gotta love that lathe work.😁
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The body filler was smooth out by using a lathe.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

It's good to see the extra effort that you are putting in to this build. She's going to look awesome when you get done 😁
-Jim G.G.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Great job on that replacement part!

Ironically, since I have a lot of extra time on my hands lately, I recently decided to take a crack at 3D printing. I have a few of the old AMT _USS Enterprise _kits from the original series that I would revisit. I haven't built one of these in years, and, sadly, without DLM around to purchase accurized parts from any longer, I decided to try learning Blender and make my own replacement accurizing parts.

One of the first attempts is the front sensor/deflector housing, rings and dish printed out in 1/635 scale to replace the inaccurate kit parts. Here are the first two test prints, one fitted on the kit hull, and the other sitting alongside the inaccurate kit part:










It IS possible for an old dog to learn new tricks!


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

And the results do look MUCH better than stock!


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Outstanding work! That is a lot better and faster with a 3d printer. I am a to old of a dog to learn the 3d printing, I still have to build everthing the old caveman way,( hammer and chisel) Please keep us posted on your Build. I fine it fascinating. God now I sound like Spock! (Smelling to much body filler today.)


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

I went to a lot of trouble with a small drill bit cutting out the center section, cutting off the misplaced concentric ring, and then sanding smooth the outside of the piece I cut out and the inside of the deflector housing. I glued the inner piece back in after inserting a circular piece of plastic for the back piece--clear in couple of cases. I still need to come up with the innermost ring but I've got a couple of candidates for that.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

When you have to cut out the center ring by hand takes a lot of work! Everything you did really made for a perfect scale piece thats looks like the real thing that is used on the 11 footer. Very nice job! I ready enjoy seeing other peoples craftsmen ship. Post more pictures of your build when you can.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

This project turned out to take a little longer than I thought,but I wanted to get the model as close to the real movie prop as possible. A few weeks back I added another 1/25 of a length to the main body. it still did not look quit right even that I added 1/25 before to the hull before







.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The secondary hull all primed and almost done.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

a close up of the grill detail made from 0.20 brass rod.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Front of secondary hull without front censor dish.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Shuttle bay area.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The hull is still in two halves,and some areas have to be cleaned up and made straight and even. This is just in the base primer,so windrows etc will be cleaned up later,


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks for posting more pics!
She's gonna turn out to be a great!
-Jim G.G.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Impressive progress. Love the 3D printed deflector ring housing.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Sorry to delete.
Feel like I was thread jumping.
.....


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

More beautiful work  I like the work you did on the shuttlebay area. Nice!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Just a related observation: IIRC, the "clamps" on the deflector section are the correct length but the deflector section sits too far inside them until you do as you have done and build up the hull forward of the connecting dorsal.




subtoair said:


> Front of secondary hull without front censor dish.
> View attachment 307580


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Getting the secondary hull a little more done, with the front censor dish mounted. I primed the dish and sanded it to the contour that looked close to the 11 foot enterprise. The dish was made to be removable w







hen the secondary hull would be glued together.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

a side shot of the model. A lot more detail has to be added to the secondary hull later on.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Gorgeous! The curves look right. It's really looking like the original there.  



subtoair said:


> a side shot of the model. A lot more detail has to be added to the secondary hull later on.
> View attachment 307686


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks for the nice complements guys! Getting closer to getting the secondary hull done. I am always touching up on the model it seems.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Certainly!








-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

After looking at ,the bottom saucer of the amt kit, It did not have the same contour of the bottom saucer of the 11 footer Enterprise. The 11 foot Enterprise had a gentle curve that almost went up to the outer edge of the saucer. The amt saucer had a little sharper curve that flatten on the other edge. I don,t know why amt made this design, but someone said that the 33 inch studio prop model was made like this.I don,t know for sure if this is true or not. To redesign the amt saucer would take a lot of work,but had to be done if it was to look like the 11 footer.. First the 2 bottom saucer halves had to be glued together. Extra .030







plastic strips were glued between the hull tabs. This provided easy assembly of the two halves when gluing them together. I used super glue to cement the halves together. By carefully making sure to up the seam before gluing.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The two halves glued together.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

It would be impossible to attach this large of a disk to a lathe. So to build up the outer edge of the saucer, the center of the saucer was found. A small hole was drilled in the saucer center. then a swing arm was made made with the right contour to follow the outside edge of the saucer. Body filler was added to the outer edge of the saucer. The arm was carefully pulled around the saucer to level out the filler to the right contour needed. This worked out better then I thought. A outer edge was now built up a little higher







. A lot of sanding and filling was needed to smooth out the saucer. It toke me all of two days of work of cutting the the saucer with sandpaper to the right shape.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The saucer toke me around two weeks to finish, but now the outside flat edge







was gone. The saucer was also a little thicker like the 11 footer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Excellent job on the saucer. I did mine the opposite way: I epoxied on the inside of the bottom saucer and then sanded down the the outside to smooth out the ridge. I like the way you made your contour guide--brilliant


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

You are doing great, keep up the good work! 👍
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I do not, know were the time goes,but it has been 24 days since the last post. Hope everyone is doing fine. With the warmer weather here more time in mowing the grass etc have been taking my hobby time away. Between the chores I did get to work on the enterprise project. I decided to make a rubber mold of the secondary hull, in case I wanted to make the other sister ships. After I molds were made , fiberglass epoxy was brushed into the molds to make two light weight secondary hull shells. These shells were cleaned up and taped together to see what they would look like. The seams will be straighten out later before they are glued together. Here are a few pictures.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A picture of the finished secondary hull halves taped together.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

You can not see it in the picture ,but there are lightly scribe hull lines around the secondary hull body. This was added like the lines







on the 11 foot enterprise.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Rear shot to show landing light ports holes. Once the model is glued together







gel-cote will be applied to make a perfect clean seam.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

WOW!  Stunning work. Great inspiration. I like the great detailing you were able to include.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thants for the kind words on the project,PerfesserCoffee. My next step a while back was the lower saucer. I changed the saucer more than a few times. For one thing the angle of the outer rim was not steep enough. Taking a sanding block the angle was changed to look like the 11 footer. The grid lines were lightly scribe into the bottom surface of the saucer. I did not want the grid lines to deep, just enough for a pencil to follow the groove gird lines after the saucer was painted. Here is a picture of the brass straight edge that was used to make the grid lines.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

here is the difference between the stock saucer and the reworked saucer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new saucer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

T







he new reworked saucer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

This picture shows a solid center dome. A clear dome will replace this solid one.This way it can be lite up.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

subtoair said:


> T
> View attachment 308506
> he new reworked saucer.


Holy cow!!
You sir are truly amazing!
-Jim G.G.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Thanks for showing that work on the saucer and your rig. Absolutely beautiful work on the saucer.  You've taken it to the nth level there. Since the cutaway is a big improvement over the '66 AMT on the angle of the saucer edges, I didn't alter it as you did but now that I've seen your work I think I'm going to adjust that a bit.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

If you don't mind, I have a couple of amateur questions about the casting process for the two halves of your engineering hull:

1. What brand fiberglass epoxy did you use?

2. Did you have to apply multiple light coats? Did the resin want to pool at the bottom?

3. Is the resin still plenty strong without the reinforcing cloth?





subtoair said:


> I do not, know were the time goes,but it has been 24 days since the last post. Hope everyone is doing fine. With the warmer weather here more time in mowing the grass etc have been taking my hobby time away. Between the chores I did get to work on the enterprise project. I decided to make a rubber mold of the secondary hull, in case I wanted to make the other sister ships. After I molds were made , fiberglass epoxy was brushed into the molds to make two light weight secondary hull shells. These shells were cleaned up and taped together to see what they would look like. The seams will be straighten out later before they are glued together. Here are a few pictures.
> View attachment 308483


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I don,t mind sharing the process at all. The epoxy resin I use is from BJB Enterprises in California. If you need the address I would be happy to look it up for you. This resin and cloth it what I use on my larger scale models. First you need to buy the white gelcote and brush this into the mold. The gelcote is thick like whipped cream.Does not run down the sides of the mold. I use two light coats to cover the mold. Let dry untell just tacky. Apply the white resin to the gel surface,then lay in one layer of 6oz cloth. The resin will run down some what and pool at the bottom of the mold. I just take a brush and brush up the extra resin from mold. When dry the shells are a lot stronger and lighter than plastic,and will not shrink and will not lose it shape. As far as just using the gel-coat and resin with out the cloth it would not be very strong and would crack easy. This is a longer process than just pouring the resin in the mold,but this makes some really super strong parts.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Got a little more done yesterday. Here is a picture of the cast clear lower saucer censor. that was pulled out today.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Picture of the poured lower saucer mold,also made yesterday. BJB instructions say you can pull the mold off the master in 4 to 6 hours. I will leave it together for 48 hours before I remove the saucer from the mold. This just my way of doing things.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

THIS is a crazy build. Makes me feel lazy...


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Holy moly!!  Thanks for the info and the pics of your other castings. FANTASTIC 




subtoair said:


> I don,t mind sharing the process at all. The epoxy resin I use is from BJB Enterprises in California. If you need the address I would be happy to look it up for you. This resin and cloth it what I use on my larger scale models. First you need to buy the white gelcote and brush this into the mold. The gelcote is thick like whipped cream.Does not run down the sides of the mold. I use two light coats to cover the mold. Let dry untell just tacky. Apply the white resin to the gel surface,then lay in one layer of 6oz cloth. The resin will run down some what and pool at the bottom of the mold. I just take a brush and brush up the extra resin from mold. When dry the shells are a lot stronger and lighter than plastic,and will not shrink and will not lose it shape. As far as just using the gel-coat and resin with out the cloth it would not be very strong and would crack easy. This is a longer process than just pouring the resin in the mold,but this makes some really super strong parts.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Been taking pictures of the top saucer, making a lot of changes and modifications. After I got deeper into this kit more I found out that more areas needed to be changed. I will post pictures of the top saucer area soon.For now a few pictures of the molded bottom saucer that was molded a few weeks back.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

WOW!


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

This is great!!!!! You're putting my Cutaway to shame.😁
-Jim G.G.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Just getting better  Incredible!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This is THE most incredible work on a 22" Enterprise, EVER.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Usually I am to tried to post pictures on the site,but tonight I thought that I better start posting a few to catch up pictures with the Enterprise project. The top saucer was now on my build table. First the original bridge had to be removed,as it was to big and the wrong shape







.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A blown up bridge drawing from a Enterprise blue print was placed on top of the original AMT bridge to show the difference between the two.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The small insert shows what the new bridge will look like later on.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

subtoair said:


> The small insert shows what the new bridge will look like later on.


How in the world are you going to achieve this?
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The stock bridge was cut off with a razor saw.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Bridge removed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A piece of plastic sheet was cut to shape and inserted into the hole.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I compared the height of the center dome to pictures and drawings on the internet,and it seems to low. Body filler was added to bring the height of the dome up to match the pictures and drawings.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The center dome all primed and ready to be smoothed out.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new bridge was carved from a small block of wood. The bridge was rough out by using the Enterprise blue prints . This pictures was one of the first pictures of the new bridge,and was improved later on.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The grid lines were lightly scribe into the top saucer by using the same center jig system on the bottom saucer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Sorry about that. Looks like I asked too soon.
FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!
-Jim G.G.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Excellent! That bridge looks perfect  I'm still fascinated by your patented jig system. Gonna save those pics.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This is model awesomness incarnate.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thank you guys, for the nice complements and great support on this build! After I got a little deeper in building this model, I never realize that there was so much detail on the original Enterprise. This detail is fun to capture in a model,but takes a lot of time and work. I now have the top and bottom saucers halves done, I will post more pictures of this in the near future.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

subtoair said:


> Thank you guys, for the nice complements and great support on this build! After I got a little deeper in building this model, I never realize that there was so much detail on the original Enterprise. This detail is fun to capture in a model,but takes a lot of time and work. I now have the top and bottom saucers halves done, I will post more pictures of this in the near future.


Very much looking forward to it.
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Been doing some building on the masters for the command superstructure,and main bridge module. This toke quite a bit of time,since these parts had some detail,such as windrows,the rear turbo-lift elevator etc. I try to do intensive research on different areas of the ship when I build the parts which takes some time. The upper clear scanner -array was also turned on a lathe. Here is a photo of the completed bridge superstructure on my (miniature saw horses) waiting for primer.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The 22 inch Enterprise kit come with a small detailed bridge interior insert. I added a new caption chair and other detai to this area







l. The Para Grafix photo etch sheet does include a detailed control panel inserts to detail out the bridge area,a nice touch on there part! This bridge area was molded,so I could cast this part in clear resin,to provide easy lighting later.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A picture of the top saucer rubber mold being made.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

New mold, with a layer of white Gel-Cote and fiberglass cloth.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

New fiberglass top saucer half pulled from mold.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A new (accelerator mag-coil housing) on the rear of the saucer was scratch built to replace the old stock piece.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

All this work you're doing is amazing!
She's going to be gorgeous when you get her done.
Truly awesome.
-Jim G.G.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Wow!  You nailed the proportions--looks great!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

would this ......










..... in any way be a predecessor to the Star Trek Enterprise class of Star Ships?









VINTAGE LINDBERG FLYING SAUCER 1950s | eBay


Well put together. A bit dusty and needs a good cleaning.



www.ebay.com





notice, especially the "nacelles" and the date of manufacture.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

alpink said:


> would this ......
> 
> ..... in any way be a predecessor to the Star Trek Enterprise class of Star Ships?
> 
> ...


I think you may be on to something there


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## jlwshere (Mar 30, 2007)

subtoair said:


> A few weeks ago I was watching the old Star Trek series,and got the idea of building the Enterprise 1701. I saw a lot of great builds on this model in HobbyTalk. I am very late on getting on this subject, but I thought that I would post a few build pictures as I moved along. The reason I chose the 22 inch model was because this size worked better for a display in my room. The polar lights 1/350 is a very nice model,and it is very accurate that I seem on a lot of posts. But I really do not have the room. I did buy two kits on ebay. One is the new AMT round two kit, and a older Amt 22 inch kit. After I looked over the two kits,I noticed The new round two model is made from a green plastic, A very nice kit which can be made into the cutway model or a full complete model. The older kit is all the same but it is made from a stiffer gray plastic. I liked this plastic better as it seems stronger. The windrows are molded in the parts,but are not in the right locations,which means you still have to fill in all the windrows and cut new ones. I chose the Round Two secondary hull as it had a smooth surface making easier to mark out the new windrows locations.


The neat thing about the 22 inch is that it is approximately 1/6 scale of the 11 filming miniature if someone wanted to do a diorama with 12 inch action figures, for instance filming the model in front of a blue screen, like the sfx production photos we all know and love.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

That would be a fun diorama to make with the 1/16 figures and 22 inch Enterprise mode.







A person could recapture the 1960s filming scenes,like going back in time. Great idea!


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Started to do a little work on the engine nacelles. It looks like a few changes had to be made on these parts also. The rear nacelle mag-flow shielding cowls,(I guess this is what they call them) new ones had to be made because the stock kit parts







did not have the ribs on the outside. also the curve was not right on them. A new part was made,along with a rubber mold to make extra parts. pictures show the new plug to make the mold,and also a picture of the AMT plastic part and my new cowl.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The new part.


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

So...um...what's left of the original?


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

working on this model kit, brought back past memories of me as a boy of 15,working on the 18 incher Amt Enterprise in 1966. The first kit that I built was put together with the best of not so great skills at that time. I built two of these 18 inch Amt kits. They were great kits at that time. The second one I toke more time to build,trying to capture the look of the original Enterprise.All painted and decals put on she looked great! She stood up straight and proud. I finally had my dream Enterprise! After a month or so the engine nacelles started to drool back down. The bottom of the engine struts started to brake off. After that I learned a lot later in the years how to use brass tubing to correct this. The next few pictures will show how I made a brass armature for the 22 inch Amt Enterprise model. I will post these soon.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Making a square brass armature for the model was really not that hard,it just toke time.It would run from the saucer down the dorsal and into the secondary. From there a square brass tube (spine) ran up to a brass pylon nacelle support bracket. This bracket was made to accept the square brass tubing coming down from each engine nacelle support pylons.Some pieces were silver soldered,and others pieces epoxy glued in place. This provided a very strong model from the saucer to the engines.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A short square brass tube was glued to the rear of the saucer. This would allow the secondary hull dorsal square brass tube and slide into the rear saucer square tube.(hope this makes sense?)


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A picture of the secondary hull armature laying loose in the body.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Square K&S ret brass tube #8262 were glued inside the pylons up rights.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A small brass bracket was made to slide over the top of the pylon tubing. This was glued inside the engine nacelles.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Then the lower brass pylon tubes will fit into the secondary hull rear brackets.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Pylons installed into the secondary hull bracket







testing for fit.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

That ship is going to be photon-torpedo proof


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

With the saucer and secondary hull done,I moved on to the nacelles. They also needed some changes. I replaced the rear grilled boxes on each side of the necelles. By looking at the plans I guess they are called (post-stage flux tuner grills?) New ones were made and glued to each side of the rear nacelles. Under the bottom of the nacelles were 6 boxes again by the plans, called (field shaping coils) Anyway theses humps were to high and short,and were removed by grinding them off.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The field coils were not accurate at all. They were to small and had four coils, instead of 3 like the real model had. These were also sanded off all around the nacelles.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

New coils were scratch made.These 3 coils were not round but cupped forward. A rubber mold was made to make extras.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

New coils compared to stock units.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

New coils installed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Your attention to detail is very inspiring


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks! I got a lot more done on the ship, last month.I toke pictures as I went along,hope to post more pictures soon.Once again thanks for the nice complements.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

subtoair said:


> Thanks! I got a lot more done on the ship, last month.I toke pictures as I went along,hope to post more pictures soon.Once again thanks for the nice complements.


Can't wait


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## jkirk (Feb 19, 2020)

Wow, you give new meaning to anal......


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

It is time for me to get caught up with posting some pictures on the Enterprise project. The nacelles were the next part of this build that I wanted to attack. The grill area at the rear of the nacelles was rebuilt to match the 11 foot model. This area was ground down to the right contour needed,then filled with filler and sanded down and primed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The warp screen areas were cut oy using a dremel tool and small files.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The nacelles were primed with Tamiya fine surface gray spray primer. I really like the Tamiya primers,as it does not hide the fine detail on a mode.







l


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

All of these nacelles pictures were made with the plastic stock kit parts and I planned on using on the finished model. I made a rubber mold for the nacelles, incase that I might want to make a few other Enterprise kits for myself in the future. You can use the stock engine nacelles in the kit as they would also work great! Here is the picture of the rubber mold box for the engine nacelles that I made.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The rubber mold with the fiberglass nacelles laid up in the mold. You do not have to do this for your build,just use the stock plastic kit nacelles,as they work great.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

When I brought the Enterprise cutaway kit,I also brought the Para Grafix photo etched 22 inch cutway model photo etched sheet. This is a very high detailed bass photo etched sheet. A must for the craftsman who builds detailed models.







The Para Grafix offers a brass photo etched rotor parts in there sheet. Thinking it would be cool to have a real rotating bussard rotor fan in the model,I started to remove the needed parts from the Para Grafix sheet.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

First the fan blades were carefully bent around a small round ball. The blades were then removed and soldered to the rotor blade back bulkhead. The rear brass bulkhead has neat little cut out slots were the fan blades fit into,helping to to build a straight rotor assembly.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Well, I can see this is going to be the most detailed 1/537th Constitution class that I've ever seen.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

On to the making of the lighting system for the bussard clear domes. I wanted the look of the pulsating matter/antimatter flashing in the nacelles. The only thing that was simple was to use slow flashing leds.But first a circuit board had to be made,to hold the leds. I first cut out the face plates from a sheet of plastic.This was used to hold the leds and to the mount the rear motor. Holes were drilled in to the plates,by using a drill press to make even straight holes. Next rubber molds were made,so I could make extra face plates. Pictures show the







mold,and then the mold with the resin cast parts beside them.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The face plate with reflection tape added and different color leds installed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Back of face plate with wiring and leds.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Now the rotor installed thru the front face plate.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The completed finished unit built with the flashing (pulsating) leds and rear motor installed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I tested this idea out and so far everything worked great. The 6 volt motor was from The Robot Shop. It runs very smooth and its so quiet that you can not even hear it run. The best voltage for the scale speed is 3volts.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Nice, small motor! Love the layout of the lights. This is going to be something else


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Well, I can see this is going to be the most detailed 1/537th Constitution class that I've ever seen.


I totally agree!!!
-Jim G.G.


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Wow what a great build... I don't think I've ever seen the cutaway kit look this good...and it ain't even finished yet! Excellent work!


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks! Whiskeyrat Its going slow but sure.What takes so long is waiting for scratch building materials.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I am not a big fan of winter, but it has arrived in South Dakota. With snow outside I will have more time for myself and my hobbies. So back to the Enterprise project! The nacelles halfs were put together with epoxy glue,then filled and sanded smooth to a even finish. Wiring was also run thru the struts brass tubes so I could power the rotor and the blue warp nacelle grills lights later on. On the show the nacelle grills were not light,but I thought that installing the lights would be easy to install now.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Welcome back! 🤙


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The engine nacelles







primed and sanded.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The four rear nacelle engine coolers were made from scratch. The stock units did not have the screens detail molded in the parts like the real 11 foot model had.. It took me almost a month to find the right scale screen for these parts. Here is a picture







the stock kit parts with the new units that I made. Then a rubber mold was made to make four new intercoolers.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Here is a shot of the completed nacelle with the new parts just seating on the model before gluing them in place.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

subtoair said:


> I am not a big fan of winter, but it has arrived in South Dakota. With snow outside I will have more time for myself and my hobbies. So back to the Enterprise project! The nacelles halfs were put together with epoxy glue,then filled and sanded smooth to a even finish. Wiring was also run thru the struts brass tubes so I could power the rotor and the blue warp nacelle grills lights later on. On the show the nacelle grills were not light,but I thought that installing the lights would be easy to install now.
> View attachment 311228


The pylon attached to the nacelle *looks* like it might be upside down as it appears to have a forward slant. Or is it just a trick of the camera?


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The struts can not be mounted upside down, as they have different size mounting holes to go in. But I agree with you with that the picture angle makes it look like the nacelle has a slant. I aligned the nacelles on the secondary hull so they have no rear droop, and are level when mounted. Future pictures should show this. Thank you for your post.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

subtoair said:


> The struts can not be mounted upside down, as they have different size mounting holes to go in. But I agree with you with that the picture angle makes it look like the nacelle has a slant. I aligned the nacelles on the secondary hull so they have no rear droop, and are level when mounted. Future pictures should show this. Thank you for your post.


Good to hear. I was worried because I did accidentally glue a strut on upside down on my 1/350 TOS E but on that model the mounting holes are the same.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The 22 inch Enterprise model has been put aside the last month. In place of working on the ship I been busy building a scratch build shuttle bay,and shuttle craft. Since there was no after market shuttle bay on the market,I was forced to build my own. I wanted to marke these parts before the ship would be glued together. Rubber molds were made to cast the clear epoxy patterns, so lighting could be installed later. these pictures show the clear cast painted,then glued together. They are not the best of pictures,but will give you a idea of the work being done.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Beautiful!  That is going to fool some people into thinking it's the bigger 1/350th model by the time you're done.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

FANTASTIC!
Do you plan on using SMDS to light this area?
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The shuttle bay is almost done,and I do plan on using some small leds to light it up. I had to make 3 different size shuttle crafts to get to the right scale. The last one is done and waiting on decal paper to complete it. This little shuttle bay and shuttle craft took me almost a month and a half to build,so I will be happy to get back to the Enterprise. Also thanks guys for the nice words on the build.I will post more pictures of the little shuttlecraft soon.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

It is kind of late in the evening,but I wanted to post a few pictures of the 1:537 scale shuttlecraft that I built a few weeks back. The little model is wired for interior lighting.along with applied decals. The pictures are not the best because the shuttlebay is out of the model.When its installed in the Enterprise it does







look a lot better.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

That is very cool- lot of detail in such a small place.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A few progress shots of the led lighting system installed in the secondary hull. I have never used the led striping before,so this was all new to me. The led strips run on 12 volts,but I found out that the lights looked better running on 9 volts. The led strips were attached by first cleaning away the light blocking paint before the strips were placed in there areas. They were easy to apply with the self sticky tape that was on the back of the strips. Just to be sure that they would stay in place,a few drops of super glue were used to hold them.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A plastic channel was made to hold a longer strip of leds







in the bottom of the hull. The strip is held in place by magnets,this way the strip can be removed for service.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

This photo shows the armature installed in the hull,







before the secondary hull was bonded together.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Most impressive


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This is a build of truly epic pro-portions!


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Do you plan on adding light in the Control Room over the Shuttle Bay doors as well?
-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I now have the secondary hull glued together,Before I put the hall halves together, led lights were installed for the lights for the top rear Beacon dome and the Control Room over the shuttle bay doors.Small led chips were glued in these areas,to add that extra detail.I left off the nacelle struts,as it would make it easily to paint these parts, before I attached them to the secondary hull. It been a long project,t but is now starting to look like a star ship. I have been watching other builders on you tube to give me a lot of ideas. This has helped me a lot!


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## krlee (Oct 23, 2016)

Seeing this makes me want to re-work the one I built in 1996. I used neon lighting in it and a flasher circuit for the nacelle lights, giving the illusion of something spinning in the domes. I used a bluish gray paint on it which was completely wrong. I would need to replace the neon bulbs and re-work the engine lighting but that should be easy enough. IIRC, I bought two of the kits so I could have two solid domes for the engines.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

I went thru the same experience as you did in the 80s and 90s with my model building. At that time leds were avalable but all you could buy were Red,green,and yellow leds, but no white ones,that you could use for the interior lighting of the models. All I could find were 12 volt bulbs, and a few not so small fluorescent bulbs (if you could make them fit) It sounds like you did a outstanding build on you Enterprise kit back then. With today,s advanced techilogy It might not take to much to up grade your model with a few different modifications if you wanted to.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Doing a little back tracking on the secondary hull assembly,I first primed the hull halves with Tamiya light grey primer before they were glued together. The parts were then sanded, and any small pin holes were fill and primed again. I really liked the Tamiya primer as it is a very fine primer and does not hide any detail. It is also very durable and does not wipe off with auto prep cleaners. As fair as the color of the ship, I had a choice of painting the model as it is seen now in the museum with greys, greens, and a lot of heavy weathering. Or paint it like I seen it on TV in the 60s a light grey color,then I could add other greys and greyblue colors to hightlite the details if I wanted to. Antway I chose the 60s light grey look.Because that is the way I saw it on TV as a kid. There no doubt there were other colors on the ship at that time but the stage lights might have washed them out some what. For the main base color coat, I chose Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White. Other colors could also be added later as need be. For the windrows Solarez resin was used. I saw this in a video by Trekworks. The thick doming resin was first used,but for me it would trap small air bubbles no matter how slow I put it on. Then I tried the thin-hard resin,this worked a lot better for me. The air bubbles would work out of the resin faster. To apply the Solarez first a strip of clear Scotch tape was pressed over the outside of the windrow opening. Then the Soloraz was slowly applied to inside of the windrow opening,by using the Solorez needle tube supplied with the kit. The Solarez flashlight was the used to harden the resin. This just toke a couple of seconds for the resin to become hard. Then the scotch tape was removed,and the windrow was lightly sanded flush with the body. The Solarez sands very easy and was great to work with. The secondary hull halves were then glued together.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

This picture shows the seam filed and primed.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Masking off the dorsal front area,to airbrush the light blue grey strip.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A picture of the painted hull. The photo does not show the true color of the model with the blue back







ground.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Thought that I would post a few pictures of the lighted up secondary hull. The main body runs on 9 volts and the shuttle bay runs on 3 volt. In time I will tie in both power lines so the model can be all lite up at once.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The rear top tail lighted control dome along with the three red and green lights will be installed later.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Good Lord!
The effort that you are putting in to this is amazing!
Whenever you get around to the 1/350th ,it's going to be childsplay compared to what you're doing here. This is FANTASTIC!









-Jim G.G.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

JGG1701 said:


> Good Lord!
> The effort that you are putting in to this is amazing!
> Whenever you get around to the 1/350th ,it's going to be childsplay compared to what you're doing here. This is FANTASTIC!
> 
> ...


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Being away from the Hobby Talk for awhile, I thought that a few updates were needed. Since the last post, the model was painted and some of the assembly was done.I painted the nacelles separate,from the secondary hull.This allowed me to add the Para Grafix photo etched parts to the nacelles more easy. The photo etched grills pieces were applied to the nacelle struts. The nacelle inside screens were also installed.Weathering was applied by using a Doc O Brien,s weathering powers. After there were applied The weathering powers were then sealed with Tamiya clear semi gloss clear TS-79. The nacelle wiring was pushed thru the secondary hull strut openings and epoxy in place. The wiring was pulled out the front of the secondary hull and tested, to make sure everything worked.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The struts with the Para Grafit screens installed.These parts really added a lot of detail.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Here is a shot of the wiring hanging out of







the front of the secondary hull.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

The model was painted Tamiya insignia white AS-20. The ship looked really nice,but was lacking detailing. Very light, and I mean very light paneling was air brushed to bring more interest to the hull. This toke a lot of work,because every panel had to look like they belong in that area. a lot time was spent in painting these,but I thing it was worth it. I know the real Enterprise prop model did not have these,but I liked the looks of it.I guess each to his own?


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

A few more shots of her.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Nice & subtle work, I love it.


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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)




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## subtoair (Feb 19, 2012)

Now on to the saucer!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Beautiful! Had no idea that kit could be made to look that good


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## alensatemybuick (Sep 27, 2015)

subtoair said:


> The model was painted Tamiya insignia white AS-20. The ship looked really nice,but was lacking detailing. Very light, and I mean very light paneling was air brushed to bring more interest to the hull. This toke a lot of work,because every panel had to look like they belong in that area. a lot time was spent in painting these,but I thing it was worth it. I know the real Enterprise prop model did not have these,but I liked the looks of it.I guess each to his own?


Love seeing folks adding their own touches, as opposed to 100% slavish devotion to what we know / think we know about the filming model.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

alensatemybuick said:


> Love seeing folks adding their own touches, as opposed to 100% slavish devotion to what we know / think we know about the filming model.


Yes, exactly! Never hurts to add a few finer touches of detail here and there.


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