# What gauge wire should I use?



## Hoganflagle (Sep 21, 2019)

What gauge wire should I use to connect my transformers to my Aurora model motoring lock and joiner two lane track? I will be running two 18vdc transformers, one dedicated to each lane.

I also plan on running wire from the other transformers' terminal to quick disconnects as well as running wire from the other track terminal to a quick disconnect and putting the other matching quick disconnects on the controller leads. Assume I can use the same gauge wire as I use for my transformer to track connections? I have multiple controllers and want to be able to swap them out when the grandkids visit.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Wire is cheap when you don't have to buy hundreds of feet of it and it does not hurt to use wire that is heavier than you actually need. The amp draw of the cars that you expect to run would be a factor to consider. In your case the stock power supplies would be a limiting factor, those are only good for just under one amp each. You could use 18 gauge wire or possibly 16 gauge zip cord from a hardware store, that would future proof your wiring in many cases. I do run higher powered cars and my track has two 20 amp power supplies. I use 12 and 14 gauge wire. Just in case there is a short the wiring is not likely to burn up.
See this article on power supplies: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r_mey6LXg4kmp6sX4U3lU-fDA72pXhfj/view?usp=sharing


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

The last part about burning up is probably your main factor. The heavier (thicker) the wire is - the less likely this would happen. This is particularily important in permanent layouts (and commercial settings). 

But also take into consideration your connectors and use the largest wire they are designed to accomodate. (That is were the short usually happens.) :thumbsup:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

LOL .....
good advice both of you .....
on my drag strips I have 8 gauge wire the whole length of the track and jumpers to the rail every 12 inches.
for the jumpers I use braid that is made for commercial 1/24 routed tracks because it is flat and has many small diameter wires.
the 8 gauge wiring is Monster wire intended for high power music systems and again many tiny wires.
amperage travels on the molecules on the outside of each strand of wire, so many thin strands carries more amperage than a solid wire of the same gauge (diameter).

rarely does anyone draw the kind of amperage that my wiring can accommodate, but the capacity is there if I need it.

I think something along the nature of extension cord wire would be suitable for your use.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

For DC current the electrons do not just travel on the surface, for high frequency AC applications stranded wire is better. I am not certain about where the frequency starts to be important, but it it is probably well above audio frequencies. I expect that stranded wire is used for audio applications because it is flexible.


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

Lamp/zip cord from the local hardware store is cheap, tidy, and will carry more current than you'll ever need.


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## SpeedyNH (Sep 13, 2014)

once again, there is no noticeable skin effect at slotcar frequencies (in the low kilohertz), as Rich said. 


the only problem with lamp cord and inexpensive speaker wire is that the insulation melts at relatively low temperatures if you do experience a short, which can make a real mess, and is relatively easily pierced. 
I find a good solution to be the generic stranded house wiring in the gauge of your choice (maybe 16-18AWG here?) from the big box home centers, available in small spools in a variety of colors and lengths. as a general rule, the more strands/smaller conductors, the more flexible the wire, for the same insulation type. sometimes online you can find surplus silicone insulated wire with many small strands, which can be ideal. I have some from 18 all the way up to AWG4.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

If you are using a big power supply it is a good idea have a fuse in the circuit that is rated less than the amperage rating of the power supply. A decent power supply should have a fuse and possibly some sort of electronic protection, but don't bet your life on that. I was using a smaller power supply with my 1/32nd skid pad, which I use to polish the tires that I have trued. The mule car that I used for that had a traction magnet that fell off and landed across the rails causing a short circuit that burned out the power supply even though it was fused.
In addition to a single large fuse at the outputs of both of my track power supplies I have smaller breakers at each driver's station. Those are mostly there in case someone hooks up a controller the wrong way. Besides the usual screw posts for alligator clips my track has XLR jacks. XLR plugs can't short out, can't be connected incorrectly and lock in place, they have become the standard connection for club style 1/32nd racing. Thus far HO racers have refused to consider using XLR connectors, even though improper connections are common.
In any case it is best to size the wire so that it can handle the full output of your power supply.


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