# LIS SPACE POD from Moebius - A step-by-step building thread



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi guys!!

This thread is intended to show a step-by-step sequence of pictures portraying my experience building the Moebius LIS Space Pod.

It's not a WIP thread, because the kit is almost ready.

I decided to start this project when I were finishing my Moebius LIS Chariot and realized that the canopy didn't match the front face of the base by some 3 milimeters. It was a huge frustation, mainly because the perspective of the work and time that would be necessary to fix the problem, with the risk involved in damage the dashboard so meticulously prepared. You can see the thread here.

Then, I decided to put the Chariot aside, taking a break from that project and making something else to cool down my brain.
So, I started building the space pod, which proved to be another headache.

Then, I realized that almost all my problems with this hobby lies on my arrogance in trying to go beyond my skills, besides not to plan adequately the use of the kits' limited internal spaces to fit all the electronics required to satisfy my megalomaia, as you will have the opportunity to see following this thread.

I am going to post just some of pictures in a daily basis, to give opportunity to those who want to post questions about the building process.

I hope you enjoy the thread, although it is about an object already thoroughly discussed here at HT. 

Feel free to make sugestions and critics. Although the kit is almost ready, as I have said, who knows if (and when) I will start it all over with another one. :wave:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Hmm,

Timely as I am deciding on the Moebius small seaview and the SpacePod.

I'll follow your thread.

Thanks


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Well, after the necessary preparation (washing, etc), I did the dry fit to see how much room there exists between the external hull and the inner walls to fit the electronics.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Before all, I beg your pardon for the fact that the pictures being so large, the right part of them is below the HT add that now take almost 1/3 of the screen. I don't know whether it can be removed.

I cut out the raised instruments panels to lighting them with the help of Paragrafix photo etch kit.

On the first picture below, on the superior part of the wall on the left side, the raised panel most to the left doesn't need to be cut. It was a mistake.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Painting some parts in black to avoid light leakage.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Filling the gaps with thin styrene sheets to allow the passage of light from the LEDS from behind and to help making the FO's tips staying perfectly in 90º angle with the photo etch surface.



Some raised details were removed to be replaced later.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

A piece of plastic to serve as support for a LED strip which will be used to light up the dashboard from behind. This way to do the thing proved to be a mistake, due to the interference with the FOs employed to make the lighting of the random flashing instruments on both sides of the dashboard. It would have been better put dedicated leds to each of the others raised panels.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

More to come. Stay tuned.


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## Cajjunwolfman (Nov 15, 2004)

This is Amazing. Thanks for doing this, maybe now I will get brave enough to start mine.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I made a box for the X Sensor divided in four parts, each corresponding to a 804 smd led bilinking in a random pattern.

The detailing of the interior of the Sniffer Sensor was a pure pedantic preciosity that later proved to be also useless, because you can see almost nothing through the Paragrafix sniffer grill. Well, it was amusing, anyway.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

More visions of the main control console being prepared to receive my own lighting kit.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Those led strips will be used to light up the panels on both lateral inner walls and also the main console.



And here you see the "light cannons" which will be part of the random flasher circuit that I am going to use with FO to make the two blinking panels on the main console.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Preparing the circuit boards. The one above is the flasher circuit and the other to anchor the resistors of almost all the steady lights of the kit.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Some PLCC LEDS soldered to wires. They are to the front and rear search lights, to the sniffer sensor lights, to both consoles of the rear wall at each side of the hatch.
Some of them I had to change for 0804 SMD LEDs.



Testing the flasher circuit.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The first test fit. Many other had to be made and nevertheless the kit almost didn't closed in the end.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Preparing the scanner screen to receive two 0804 smd leds.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I decided to put a non-slip "metal" floor in the kit. As I could not capture a single image of the third season's episodes showing the floor of the full mockup, I considered it would not be violating any canon.

The same can be said about the ceiling of the Space Pod. So I prepared a recess to be applied to it.

You can also see the cap of the X sensor with 5 tiny holes, each one corresponding to a 0804 smd led, being 4 of them random blinking leds and one (red) steady.

As for the three lights on the sniffer sensor, I use strips of FO painted green, red and yellow lighted from behind by two PLCC LEDs.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

self explanatory


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Another dry fit test.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fantastic job my friend, I'll be following your build......


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey Teslabe!! Good to talk to you again!

The best part of making a thread like this is that you can make prophecies about things (most of them bad) which will happen, because the kit is already done (well, almost). 

I have to finish this thing and the Chariot as well, to get my hands on the C-57D project again.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

One of my mistakes in this project was to cut the panels on the rear inner wall the size of the raised area, instead of taking measures using the corresponding Paragrafix photoetch part as a guide.

What I had to do was just sand the area, since I had decided to use fiber optic to make the lighting job. Furthermore, it took me time to realize one of the inaccuracies of the kit interior, being, in this case, the fact that the area painted steel around the hatch is not flush with the rest of the wall. It is recessed, instead. So, I had to do part of the job again, using a thin plastic sheet cut in the format you see in the image.

Oh, and the piramidal shape of this recessed area is just my guess, after hours studying screencaps images from the third season's episodes.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Another picture showing the inner part of the frontal hull.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Painting and applying photoetch to the inferior part of the main console.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

And here, the two lateral inner walls.

One of the inaccuracies of the kit is the absence of the double pipes which goes vertically along the girders. I had to improvise because the distance between the girders is not in scale with the full mockup. 

So, in the right wall (looking to the windows) there is no space between the consoles and the girders, so blocking the passage of the pipes. 

If you try to realocate the girders to allow room for the pipes on the right wall, you will have problem on the left wall, because you will also have to realocate its girders for the sake of simetry. And in doing so, there won't be room for the little console almost on the rear edge of that wall.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The pictures below show the beginning of the lighting process of the consoles on the lateral walls. The dashboard on the main control console is also ready to be illuminated.

I cut off the original raised panels and replaced them by thin pieces of plastic, because I wanted to have all the instruments on the consoles lighted, not just the buttons and "light bulbs". The plastic should serve as a base for the decals and as a light difusor for the LEDs.

However, considering that there is no blinking lights in those panels, it would just be necessary installing a couple of leds behind the panels and introduce short pieces of fiber optic into the holes of each button/bulb to get a 3D appearance for them and to highlight their lighting. Thus, it was a mistake (another one) the use of long fibers going to a LED installed behind the main control console as I did, unless I wanted the lights in the consoles blinked.

Even in this case, it would be necessary to paint all the FO in the vicinity of the panels, to avoid lateral light interference from the SMD LEDs used to light the panels' instruments. This interference is so intense that prevails over the light of the FO's primary lighting source, which comes from the LED at the other end of the FO.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I used Future wax to make the "lenses" of the two pairs of those big lights on each side of the main control console. Behind it, tiny smd LEDs being prepared for soldering.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Assembling and lighting the scanner screen.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

Fascinating work so far. Almost makes me want to do another Pod, with lighting this time. Keep us posted.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Xenodyssey said:


> Fascinating work so far. Almost makes me want to do another Pod, with lighting this time. Keep us posted.


Thanks buddy!!

The sequence below shows how I had to deal with all the FO and wires because of the narrow gap between the inner lateral walls and the lateral external hulls, in the point were the inner walls are bent from the vertical position to an angled one.

There would be enough space if I were using just a couple of 33 awg mag wires, but not the exaggerated apparatus that you are seeing.

So, I had to made them going through a way behind the inner back wall were there is enough room between it and the back external hull.

As I commented in a earlier post, I had to paint the FOs in the point where they traverse the plastic sheets that serve as supports to the photo etched consoles, in order to avoid the influence of the light emitted by the smd leds used to lighting the "analog dials" on the wall consoles. 

Unfortunately the paint wasn't enough and, as I said, all this work was useless, since it would be merely necessary to put small pieces of optical fibers through the holes of the lights and buttons on the consoles and use the LEDs themselves to enlighten the FOs. The way I did the thing would just be required if I wanted the buttons and "light bulbs" to blink.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This is the chaser from Tenacontrols.



In the picture below you can see the making off of the microphone cord.



Below, the microphone in place and some of the landing struts painted.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Preparing the point of athachment for the 9V power adapter.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I digged the end tip of the thrusters to make them more realistic.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Those images should have been posted before post #. They show the FO being placed.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Sorry for the bad quality. This is the lighting of the sniff sensor's lights.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

And this is the lighting process of the X sensor.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Now, the two front search lights.



The windows "glasses" and their corresponding photo etch frames already in place.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This sequence shows the closing process of the kit.







Improving the hatch recess


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

You have to use a lot of putty to turn the borders of the hull smooth and flush with each side of them all.





There is a lot of work to do on the rear base outside the hatch. I had to use those clamps to align the rear and bottom parts of the hull, in order to glue them together. Then, cutting the excess of plastic of the base's border and puttying the gap to make a sharp edge.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Having repeated the puttying-sanding process several times, it is time to mask the kit to be painted.







I painted the kit without the front hull because I had the intention of make it removable with the use of several magnets. But later this proved to be impossible considering the enormous quantity of electronic stuff that I put inside the kit.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Nice build so far.
I used .50 mm colored fiber optics for the side panel button lights.
I bent the FO 90° inserted them then clipped when finished.
This allowed me to keep the fibers flat along bend in the kit part.
I was able to rout them to avoid the SMD's for the instrument lighting.
I used 0603 SMD leds for the instrument lights.
I placed them around the light holes to reduce the amount of light coming through. Otherwise they would have been too bright and out of scale.
For those I used liquid electrical tape to cover the wires not already covered with epoxy.
I then used adhesive foil tape to cover them and used epoxy around the edges to make sure the tape stayed put.
Even if light escaped it wouldn't matter since the FO was already colored.
I ended up using clear color paint on the tips of the fibers to get better color.
Note: I have since learned how to properly wire SMD's to elimanate the excess wires.:wink2:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

jimkirk said:


> Nice build so far.


Thank you for the compliment and for all the information. I did an extensive research, as always, before start building, trying to find inspiration, but, for some reason, I missed your work. I have just check out your other pictures on your photobucket page. Wow!!! It would have been very useful. 



jimkirk said:


> I used .50 mm colored fiber optics for the side panel button lights.
> I bent the FO 90° inserted them then clipped when finished.
> This allowed me to keep the fibers flat along bend in the kit part.
> I was able to rout them to avoid the SMD's for the instrument lighting.


How can you bend the fiber optic in a 90º angle without break it? I suppose that you are talking about a soft, curved bending, not a sharp one (what do you mean with "flat along bend"?). 



jimkirk said:


> I used 0603 SMD leds for the instrument lights. I placed them around the light holes to reduce the amount of light coming through. Otherwise they would have been too bright and out of scale.


I used led strips, as you may have seen from the images, but I added extra resistors (besides those already in the strips) to dim the light. Nevertheless, this didn't avoid the lateral interference with the FOs, although I have painted them near the holes. I sure didn't use enough paint. 



jimkirk said:


> For those I used liquid electrical tape to cover the wires not already covered with epoxy.


I have never heard about liquid electrical tape.  Thank you for the tip!! :thumbsup:



jimkirk said:


> I then used adhesive foil tape to cover them and used epoxy around the edges to make sure the tape stayed put. Even if light escaped it wouldn't matter since the FO was already colored.


Didn't you experience any difficulty to pass the FO and wires over the bent that divide the top and lower parts of the lateral inner walls (specially the one to the right), when you mounted the lateral external hulls? The space between those two parts is so narrow! :freak:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I didn't glued the top hull. I used a magnet, instead. I need it to be removable to have acess to the conections of the frontal search lights.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

On the bottom hull I have the female plug for the 9V power adapter and a push button to control the fusion core reactor.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Here is the beginning of the lightning process of the main control console.



In my first test of the leds already installed (after having the model closed and painted), I realized that one of those used to the rear search lights had already burnt. 

I was luck enough to figure out that I could change the LED before succumbing to my most primitive instincts and annihilate the kit, placing it on the floor and jumping on it.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Details of the dispositive to light up the X sensor.

The central led will have a steady light and the others will blink in a random order.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Details of the front hull lighting.



I decided to make the base of the hexagonal antena to protrude in relation to the surface of the hull, instead of leave it as a recessed area. At least this is my impressions from what I saw on my screen captured images.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Oh my God!



Please, don't ask me to explain.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Ok, I will explain all this mess in details for those few interested. But not today.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

In the pictures on post #50, the leds to the right corner blink in a random order driven by the central circuit board. The only purpose of all this stuff is to make the two panels on each side of the main control console to blink, thanks to the use of several dozen FOs.

The circuit board to the left was design to accomodate all the resistors necessary to almost all the LEDs used on this project. It also houses a 5mm warm white LED which I had the intention to employ in lighting all the buttons of the big console on the left wall (seen from the front of the kit).

This was one more among my errors in this project, since that the warm white LED dimmed by a 270 ohms resistor wasn't strong enough to make any difference compared to the light provided by the SMD LEDs used to lighting the dials, with their interference over the FOs, despite my efforts to avoid this problem, as I already noted above.

At the other side of the kit, the FO coming from the little panel on the back of the right wall (seen from the front of the kit) was inserted into the LED "cannons". Although none of the lights of the several consoles on the full mock up walls blinked, I decided to make them in this manner at least on the afore mentioned little console.

But here too the damned interference of the light from a tiny 0804 SMD LED used to light up the only dial of that console was suffice to make the effect almost not noticeable.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

At this point it is more than evident my incompetence to protect the fibers optic from being affected by the light coming from the LEDs I used to lighting the consoles (note that the consoles' dials on the full mock up were not lit).

But in the end it was just a waste of time that ironically didn't avoid the beautiful effect that was intended.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

And now, this. Part of the 0.5 mm fibers optic already installed. Since that each of the 15 holes on both blinking consoles has an oblong shape, I had to use 3 FO for each of them, totaling 90 FO. It was too much to such a restricted space and it became a hell working with them.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The idea of the lightning process of both blinking consoles was to pass 3 FO for each hole, glue the FOs from the bottom with epoxy, cut the FOs making them flush with the consoles surface and melting the FOs tips using a soldering iron. I expected to achieve an uniforme light coming from each group of 3 FO. 

However this effect was only partial, probably because when I cut the FO, the 0.50 mm transversal area of the fibers doesn't end up in a smooth, flat surface, facing up. I am saying this because one can see 3 bits of light coming from each hole, depending on observer's point of view. And melt the FOs tips didn't help much to improve the visual aspect.

Besides, here too I observed the same lateral light interference already commented several times in previous posts. However, I had a better result blocking the light here.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Before posting images of the kit done, I would like to say that glue the front hull was a nightmare. At a certain point I thought that the plastic would break or the internal circuits and fibers optic would be damaged in some way. It was too much hard glueing this piece of the kit and I hardly believed that the CA glue could keep both parts together. 

The pictures bellow show the preparation for the necessary paint job. You may remember that I had already painted the rest of the kit because my intention was to fix the frontal hull with magnets to allow acess to the circuits, for future repairs. That will not be possible anymore.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Pictures of the kit with power on soon.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

This is an amazing project- I really appreciate the walk through on what you did, and more importantly, why you did it.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks for your kind words Richard.:thumbsup:

Right now, I am doing a work which consists of repainting little scratches and blurs that can be seen on several parts of the model. 

After that, I will clean the windows on both sides and try to take good pictures of the model with lights on. 

I would like to have a good camera to do that but, unfortunately, this is not the case. So I will do my best with an old "point and shot" Panasonic camera and my Galaxy S4. I already did various tests varying the surrounding light conditions and avoiding the use of flash. 

The problem is the search lights of the Space Pod. They are bright and this reduces the diafragm aperture, putting the rest of the model in the darkness. If I force a bigger aperture, the intense brightness make the image almost white. :freak:

I will also make some short videos and after put them on my Photobucket page I am going to post the links here. :wave:


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Beautiful work Fernando.

Truly inspirational. I am in awe!:thumbsup:

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks my friend.

Still working on the pictures and videos of the kit with lights on.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Ok, after several processes of taking pictures and videos based on the state-of-the-art technology called "trial and error", I ended up concluding that with my equipment and skills I woldn't go far to improve what I already got. So I gave it up and decided to post the pictures bellow and links to acess two videos.

Even running the risk of sounding conceited and snobbish, I dare to say that neither the photos nor the videos do justice to the quality of the lighting job, even with all the flaws that it has.

I beg your pardon for the images.

Thank you all for visiting this thread.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Radiodugger (Sep 27, 2011)

Fernando, you NAILED it! Absolutely beautiful! Wow. Not sure I could do that. 

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Guys

I am having trouble with the links for the mp4 videos which I uploaded to Photobucket.

I made tests and the links are not able to open the videos there.

I would appreciate some hint on how to fix this problem.

Thanks


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Radiodugger said:


> Fernando, you NAILED it! Absolutely beautiful! Wow. Not sure I could do that.
> 
> Doug


Thank you so much, Doug.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I could watch the video using the MS Edge browser, not with Google Chrome. It seems that this problem is related with the absence or malfunction of the Adobe Flash Player add-on.

Please, try this link and tell me if you experience any problem.


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## Radiodugger (Sep 27, 2011)

Nope. Won't play. Sorry.

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

This is another video.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando, You truly are one of the best builders on the forum and this is a perfect example.....:thumbsup:
I look forward to your next project.....


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## Radiodugger (Sep 27, 2011)

teslabe said:


> Fernando, You truly are one of the best builders on the forum and this is a perfect example.....:thumbsup:
> I look forward to your next project.....


Me too! Man! Teslabe, that is a _very_ high compliment to Fernando, coming from you, after seeing the stuff _you_ have done! I agree. Fernando truly IS one of the _best builders_ on this forum! :thumbsup:

Doug


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

teslabe said:


> Fernando, You truly are one of the best builders on the forum and this is a perfect example.....:thumbsup:
> I look forward to your next project.....





Radiodugger said:


> Me too! Man! Teslabe, that is a _very_ high compliment to Fernando, coming from you, after seeing the stuff _you_ have done! I agree. Fernando truly IS one of the _best builders_ on this forum! :thumbsup:
> 
> Doug


Hello guys!

Thank you very much for the compliments. I feel very flattered, but I consider myself just a very hardworking and persistent guy who, as my grandmother would say, "stubbornly keep trying to take larger steps than his own feet".

As for Teslabe, yes Doug, it is a great honor for me to receive this compliment. Everybody knows that he is the true master here and I consider him, besides three other modelers, as the greatest among all (I wouldn't like to mention the others to avoid committing injustice).

PS: Doug, I can watch those videos with my Android and MS Edge, but there is no way to make it work on Chrome. I will use Formact Factory to change the videos format from mp4 to avi and mpeg and if I succeed I'm going to put the links here again.

Again, thank you.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Fernando Mureb said:


> How can you bend the fiber optic in a 90º angle without break it? I suppose that you are talking about a soft, curved bending, not a sharp one (what do you mean with "flat along bend"?



I was able to bend them without any problem. If I remember I put the end in my little vise and used mild heat then bent the fiber. The vice made a nice tight bend.
They might not have been exactly 90º but close enough that they came out of the holes straight and laid down tight against the inner wall.
I didn't bend just the very end but about 1" from the end to make it easier to bend.
I was talking about the bend in the inner wall. I should have said kept the fibers tight against the sharp bend on lateral the inner walls. 



> I used led strips, as you may have seen from the images, but I added extra resistors (besides those already in the strips) to dim the light. Nevertheless, this didn't avoid the lateral interference with the FOs, although I have painted them near the holes. I sure didn't use enough paint.


I used individual SMD's to make more room for the fibers.




> I have never heard about liquid electrical tape. Thank you for the tip!!


I got some from Micro Mark but hardware stores should have it also.
Not sure about where your at though.




> Didn't you experience any difficulty to pass the FO and wires over the bent that divide the top and lower parts of the lateral inner walls (specially the one to the right), when you mounted the lateral external hulls? The space between those two parts is so narrow!


Yea is was a pita.
I had to remove material from both the inner wall and the outer wall where the fibers were run.
I kept the fibers flat and side by side to keep the thickness down.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks for the reply Jimkirk. 

If I am ever to assemble another Space Pod, your tips will be useful. 

Thinking better, they are going to be useful anyway, since I will continue to lighting almost all my sci-fi kits.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Radiodugger said:


> Me too! Man! Teslabe, that is a _very_ high compliment to Fernando, coming from you, after seeing the stuff _you_ have done! I agree. Fernando truly IS one of the _best builders_ on this forum! :thumbsup:
> 
> Doug


Thank you very much Doug, that was very nice of you to say, there are many very good builders here, that is why I keep coming back so I can keep on learning......:thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> As for Teslabe, yes Doug, it is a great honor for me to receive this compliment. Everybody knows that he is the true master here and I consider him, besides three other modelers, as the greatest among all (I wouldn't like to mention the others to avoid committing injustice).


Fernando, I only point out what I see and I see a fantastic builder I enjoy watching, keep it up my friend....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

teslabe said:


> Fernando, I only point out what I see and I see a fantastic builder I enjoy watching, keep it up my friend....:wave:


Thanks my friend. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks!

I changed the videos format from MP4 to MPEG and AVI, only to discover that MP4 is the Photobucket standard format. So, no matter the video format you are uploading, they will be converted automatically to MP4.

I reiterate that I have no problem watching the videos with Android, MS Edge and IE Explorer (didn't try Firefox, Opera and iOS), but I couldn't make them working with Chrome. 

For those whom could not watch the videos, I'm offering to put them in a shared Dropbox folder (in MP4 format, which is huge) or send them by e-mail in MPEG (just PM me and send your e-mail address and tell me your preference).

I hope this helps.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I uploaded 3 videos to Youtube. 

First, a video with static images of the Space Pod finished.


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Just fantastic Fernando.
Amazing job. It looks better than the real thing.
The lighting looks perfect too.

Alien


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Alien. 

Every model that I build help me to pave the way to the Jupiter 2 and the Robot, the two models with which I want to be close to perfection, not for vanity but due to a childhood dream.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

*falls off chair*

Just- *WOW*.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey Chris! 

It's been a while, hasn't it? 

Thank you, my friend. 

Kind regards


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey Chris!
> 
> It's been a while, hasn't it?
> 
> ...


Yeah, I haven't been building for some time, then I just got an irresistible urge to build me a Seaview. You can see it on the Moebus kitbashing thread- I'm close to done. I have to say last time I was here you were an amazing modeler, but you've moved your game up- you closing in on Teslabe level ability!
:thumbsup:


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## krlee (Oct 23, 2016)

Fantastic!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> Yeah, I haven't been building for some time, then I just got an irresistible urge to build me a Seaview. You can see it on the Moebus kitbashing thread- I'm close to done. I have to say last time I was here you were an amazing modeler, but you've moved your game up- you closing in on Teslabe level ability!
> :thumbsup:


I'm really grateful for the compliment, but I am afraid you have exaggerated it. I am a Teslabe's mere sorcerer's apprentice.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

krlee said:


> Fantastic!


Thanks a lot!


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I wish the full scale filming prop looked that good!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Richard Baker said:


> I wish the full scale filming prop looked that good!


Thank you, Richard!! They are very kind words.


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