# 18" NCC-1371 Underway



## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Got a call from my local this afternoon. They got two in. To my surprise, one was the tin box. I grabbed both even though I have a tin on order from culttvman. I was told both kits were already on back order across the board. I didn't think the tin was coming out til as late as February.

Anyhow, in about 4 hrs I've got it 60% finished. I've got some more layering on the seams to do, but it is otherwise going fast.

My first modern-day build of the 18" (2yrs ago) became the Constitution, for sentimental and patriotic reasons. Next was the 22" which became Excalibur (a theme is born). So now up is the Republic. To break the trend, I always wanted to build the tug from the tech manual. Then maybe a Scout or maybe a Loknar. I'll have to research some. When I get back to the Connies, I think Lexington will be on deck. It's a toss up with the Yorktown.

As to the kit itself, it feels like they're using vinyl in the mix, not a pure styrene. My upper dish has a concave bow to the center. Don't know that it is going to go away. It seems like they rushed the pressing. There are 'streaks' in the upper dish plastic indicating bad temperature, pre-mature pouring, whatever. 

While the lack of grid lines is beautiful, those pour stubs ringing the dish I do not remember dealing with on the dozen I've built over the years. I'm thinking they nixed a couple registration tabs as well. Maybe? 

This build is going together faster than the Connie herself I built the other year. This is actually a good test as I'm thinking of it. Every couple years, build the same kit. You can benchmark yourself and see how your procedures and style has changed.

I'll get a couple pix together. I've got some youtube I'm getting to posting as well. Anyhow, what have others thoughts been on the quality of this release? The decal sheet is stunning. Why they skipped the eyebrows I don't know. Some of the curves they've got for the windows are insane. I expect to lose some. 

I should finish this weekend.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Here's some Vids logs covering the de-boxing to major assembly. The compression is bad in some places. I took a shot at a fix, but no dice. Youtube's compressor did not enjoying itself on these. 


*
WARNING: 
The following program depicts scenes of great brutality!
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS AT HOME!
If you want to see how NOT to build this kit, watch these videos.
*​
*Pt1 Introduction and Overview 3.5 mins*






*Pt 2A: Superconstructor 5 min* 





*Pt 2B: Another Idea 5 min* 





*Pt 2C: Some Assembly 2 min*





*Pt 2D: Blabber 3.5 min*





*Pt 2E: La Machine 1.5 min*
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prAfFUGob2Q&eurl=http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edit2

*Pt 2F: La Machine Reprise 5 min*





*Pt 2G: Day 1 Wrap 2.5 min*






*Pt 03A: Primered Up 5 min*





*Pt 03B Sanded down 2 min*






*PT 04 Closing in! 3 min*


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## Jaruemalak (Jun 12, 2008)

How do the nacelles attach to the engineering hull? Is it the "Insert the end of the nacelle support into this slot" or is the funky "put this tab through this hole and slide a styrene locking pin in place" method the original had? Just curious.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

'Insert tab A into slot A.' No locking pin. Never had an original to know there was another way to do it.


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## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

Model Man said:


> 'Insert tab A into slot A.' No locking pin. Never had an original to know there was another way to do it.


Then you were thankfully spared the heartbreak and agony of the dreaded Droopy Nacelle Syndrome!

The original long-box issue had curved retainer pieces that you slid through a loop at the base of the pylons, inside the hull. Attachment method number 2 wasn't much better: a transverse bulkhead that you glued into the hull, with slots that interlocked with corresponding slots in the pylons. (Is any of this making sense?) When the kit was extensively retooled for the 1976 issue, they finally got it right. No more droop!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Somehow Scottp, that all rings a bell... It's very possible that the first one I got was pre-'76. I would have been 7 in '76. I doubt I would have had a model in kindergarten, but know I knew of the show by 2nd grade. Could I have had one? Maybe. The box art didn't trigger any latent memories, but your descrip of the retainer piece rings true. I think my memory is muddling the transverse concept with the 3 piece adversary set as I think that E did have the transverse slide you mention.

Interesting history lessons...


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Speaking of DNS (droopy nacelle syndrome). I had one build as a kid that I painted up pure silver. I loved it and flew it around with me everywhere I went. 

One day, we went somewhere in the car and as usual I had my E with me. We got home late and I left it on the perch thinking I'd get it in the morning. Next afternoon, I went out to play and saw the poor thing sitting in the back window. It looked fine except one nacelle, in the summer sun of a closed-windowed car had entirely drooped over and 'frozen' in place from just above the 2ndary hull. 

I lamented it's loss (my fave up to that time) and likely threw it across the yard several times until it fully broke, just to watch it fly. I might have snapped the other nacelle off and used it as a make-shift phaser pistol. The 2ndary hull and neck made for a good gun too. The saucer made a decent frisbee as I recall.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Model Man said:


> I lamented it's loss (my fave up to that time) and likely threw it across the yard several times until it fully broke, just to watch it fly. The saucer made a decent frisbee as I recall.


Speaking of models and childhood, all my models met with the same fate back in the seventies…FIRECRACKERS!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

While pyro was a rare treat as a kid, a few of my models and toys met a similar fate. It was the budding filmmaker in me I guess. If only I had a camera!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I consolidated all the video links closer to the top of the thread. 
More work this weekend.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Hey Model Man,

Nice vid, I watched pt02A Superconstructor I'll check out the rest later. What is that glure you are using? It looks decent to apply. Was that a dremal product in the beginning of the vid? 

The flightdeck was too hard to do, I just traced the shape of the clam door to plastic and cut, little sanding and putty and Bob's your uncle. 

Good luck with the rest, looking forward to more.

Have a good one.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

The 'Original' superglue. I get it from the local dollar stores. It's like .06g for a dollar. 
It is slower than higher quality CA, which is good and bad depending. For a dollar, I'll deal with it.









The dremel product in the vid is indeed a genuine dremel brand dremel xp400 supported with the dremel brand dremel workstation. Dremel. Ask for it by name.








For $45, it is WAY worth it!


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Neat! I like the progress so far--very practical build.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Man you've got some seriously fast hands! What's that curved scraper you're using? A file?


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks. 



Nova Designs said:


> Man you've got some seriously fast hands!


It's called 'Dilithium Crystal'. You gotta try some! 



Nova Designs said:


> What's that curved scraper you're using? A file?


It's an ancient Egyptian brain scraper. 
Actually, it's labeled a 'rifling file'. A set of them was $5-10 at a swap meet. The guy's a regular and carries all sorts dental/sculpting/files, bits and other baubs. Handy! I had never seen anything like them either tl a cople months ago.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Looking good Model Man.:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thanks Jim. Considering the neanderthal technique I employee, kits generally come out good. It's been fun to do one of these again. I'm ready for another.

I just added another 2 part update to the main list. 
Pt 03A: Primered Up 5 min





Pt 03B Sanded down 2 min


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Ohhh-so close to proper painting! 

Finally got the putty rocking on that port seam and the neckline. So much better now. Too cold out to ventilate today, so not likley to go for what is likely the last primer round. Engines glue on and putty to perfection. Then it's final body primer, paint, decals, hang.

*PT 04 Closing in! 3 min*


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Hey Model Man

Looking good, yea that lower hull is not a pretty fit, I had a bit of sanding to do on one side to get an even fit. 

As far as painting in the cold temps I have been using Tamiya spray paints outside in 20 degree temps and haven’t had a problem, as long as its not an acrylic based it not so critical, not ideal, but it works. 

Looking forward to the rest. 


Have a good one. :thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

The fit of the secondary hull, or rather the lack thereof, is probably one of the few remaining artifacts of the original molds (waaaaay back then, the hull was supposed to be able to come apart; that's where the batteries were for the lights).


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Duplicate Entry for Deletion


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Captain April said:


> The fit of the secondary hull, or rather the lack thereof, is probably one of the few remaining artifacts of the original molds (waaaaay back then, the hull was supposed to be able to come apart; that's where the batteries were for the lights).


I never thought it was this bad before. The next time I put one of these together, I will glue the upper port side to the lower hull first. Once that is locked in, glue the stbd side down, then seal up the middle. This way, the sides can be pinched into shape and modified as the glue sets. Theoretically at least.



Maritain said:


> As far as painting in the cold temps...


I was more concerned about me getting cold! But I have and have not had paint probs in the cold air on the very same model in the space of three minutes.

*pt 05 Assembled 2 min*


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Man these "how to videos" are so cool!
-Jim


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

JGG1701 said:


> Man these "how to videos" are so cool!
> -Jim



Post #2 distinctly states this is a "how-not-to" video. Just kidding. :thumbsup:

If my manic obsessions help somebody somewhere avoid my problems or learn from my mistakes, then that is all I can ask for. 

My 'Smash Monkey' methodology is primitive to say the least and I'm sure many problems I face are of my own making (messing up a smooth upper dish by going too heavy on the initial paint and not fixing it right then, for example ).

Primarily, these vids are my lazy alternative to taking tons of photos and writing thousands of words. 

2ndarily, I have been wanting someone w/ experience to do something like this. Lots of folk post vids of their models, but near no one actually elaborates on their experience -which is a loss to the community. Hopefully folk who are good at building will get so frustrated w/ seeing my mockery of our craft that they start doing this themselves. 

PS Sorry about the off-center camera-to-subject shots going on in the last clip. There are no second takes when i do this.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

*Great thread .*

What a top idea with the vids mate :thumbsup: and your build is looking preety good too :thumbsup: Can't wait to see the finished artical.

I have yet to get mine. to much other stuff on my bench at the mo... Plus my budget has copped a flogging lately. :freak:

Cheers,

Alec :wave:


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## Modeler1964 (Aug 13, 2006)

Modelman,

Just wanted to say a big thank you for posting your videos of your builds. They are great. I have enjoyed the republic build a lot. I haven't purchased one of the reissued kits yet and I appreciate all the work you have put in to publishing everythiing about it!:thumbsup:

After watching you work, I noticed that you use superglue in your builds a lot. Superglue is the choice of many modelers and I have used it in the past myself a lot. I use it exculsively on my resin and fiberglass builds. I wanted to recommend a couple of products to you that I have tried and IMHO are fantastic and I feel are better suited for the type of work on styrene. 
The first is a glue called Tenax 7R or another brand is Proweld. It is the consistancy of water and can be applied with a small brush or micro applicator. The problem with superglue is that it doesn't actually weld the parts together and over time, the seams and joints can break apart because of it being brittle. Tenax and Proweld are very "hot" adhesives. The way you use it is you clamp your parts together, then apply the tenax to the seam with a small fine brush (my method). Capillary action draws the tenax into the seam and actually melts or welds the plastic together in a matter of a minute or two. The real beauty of this product is when done correctly, a small bit of the melted plastic will bead up along the seam. All you have to do is sand it off and the seam is gone! Little or no putty needed at all! It is available at most hobby shops.

I also have started using aves apoxy putty. Because I build some AMT Star Trek models myself, I have found that something like this is a must! LOL! (the latest being the 22" cutaway POS) It comes in two parts, and is non toxic. After mixing two equal parts together, it can be put on the area you wish to fill, and smoothed with a wet q tip or a finger wet with alcohol. When done this way, I don't even need to sand it. This aves apoxy is available through the starship modeler store. If you have a private email send me a PM, I can send you some pics of how both of these products work and the end results.
Again let me say that I offer this info as one guy to another and both of these products will revolutionize and help save some steps and valuable time in your building. You are doing great work there bro, and thank you again for posting your work!
Kindest Regards
Bryan


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Modeler1964 said:


> Modelman,
> 
> Just wanted to say a big thank you for posting your videos of your builds. They are great. I have enjoyed the republic build a lot....
> 
> ...


Thanks Bryan, I'm glad these vids may be of use to folks.. I'll be posting at least one Repub vid tonight. She is coming along nicely with the final base coats of paint.

The CA I use is 6 g for a dollar at the dollar store. So I regularly drop $20 on that alone on my supply runs. I know what you mean about it getting brittle over time. I will look into the Tenax 7R. While it is likely much more expensive, it sounds like it would be a great addition to the arsenal. 

Over the last two years, I started using Tamiya's putty (no longer available locally) after which I switched up to Squadron. I've been told to put the kid's toys away by a few modelers and step up to Bondo at the very least and Aves more recently. Both products are now on my supply list I've got a few tubes of the Squad left now. As that depletes further, I will make the changeover. I can't do any work on my Godzilla models until I get some Aves actually. And I've got the CC D-7 which is in need of some Bondo repairs. So not having either of these two products is holding me back on a few fronts.

Yer a real salesman, Bryan. Thanks for the tips.


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## Modeler1964 (Aug 13, 2006)

Hey I understand about the $$ issue! I know how frustrating it can be at times trying to find the right products for your building style. I have experimented with many different types. I do use the bondo glazing putty for small imperfections. I have found that it shrinks too much when you try to use it for anything deep though. I also use automotive primer, the Duplicolor fill and sand type at autozone, comes in a big spray can and will last a lot longer than model paints plus you get more bang for your hard earned buck!

I am jealous! You got that CC D7! That's awesome! I also really like those SS Botany Bay kits but couldn't spring for one at the time. I did manage to get my hands on REL's 1/350th K'Tinga Cruiser though. It was a grail kit for me and its of great quality. I just have to jump back into building it, trying to figure out how I want to do the lighting.

Sorry to get off topic here. I am going to check your latest updates!
Go easy.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

As Messr B. Bunny would quip, "Agony. Agony! AAA-Go-Neeee!".

In this update I clearly state that I will wait a full 24hrs before touching the upper dish again with spot sanding and final base color. Why I sanded only a few hours later and why I tested a different paint on the dish so soon, I don't know. :freak:

Enjoy the luster on the dish. I've got some work to do to bring it back again. 

*Pt 06 Pre-Base Color Review 3.5 min*


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Hey that finish looks great so far, very smooth!


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

The entire top has orange skinned in huge scar-stripes. :devil:

The rest of the body is glass-smooth and the dish must be entirely resurfaced.  

Ill know what I'm going to do about it tomorrow night. In some ways, getting myself into these messes is a good way to learn how to get out of them, but I'd like to skip the hassle that's for sure.

I guess Republics of any kind are never born easy.

*EDIT:* Since I'm building three of these kits simultaneously, I'm consolidating them into the single thread titled "Three of 'em, now? 
Located here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=240034

Look for all future updates on this kit's progress there.


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