# Battle-damaged USS Reliant



## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I spent the weekend finishing the custom damage on her port nacelle, and added a bit more detail to the innards of the torpedo room in the roll bar to make it more representative of the damage on the studio model. After wards, I sprayed a coat of gray primer over the whole kit. I've discovered that gray really helps me see where I still need to sand and helps me find joints that I happened to miss while puttying. Sure enough, I've discovered several sites that need attention before I begin painting, least of which is the seam that runs the length of the top of the starboard nacelle! Here are the links to some pictures of work done thus far (pardon the quality...pics were taken in low light with a not-so-great camera)




























I purchased a spray of pearl white for the primary color. I've heard this works really well. I was unable to find an enamel (my LHS only had acryl or lacquer), so I purchased a can of spray lacquer. As this is my first time working with lacquer, I'm going to do some testing first. Also thinking of heading across the river to a larger LHS which might have enamel pearl white. I'm also in need of some decals for this sucker. I'd like to purchase the aztec decals from R2, but for now I'm having no luck finding aftermarket decals for the registry and insignia. Any suggestions?

Feel free to comment on the photos and leave me suggestions!


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## terryr (Feb 11, 2001)

That's an impressive effort.

Was it hard to find reference photos?


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Reference photos*

Not too bad actually. Memory Alpha (the Star Trek Wiki) was very helpful, as were a few other sites I came across. I was hoping I'd be able to use the film as a reference, but detailed views of the damage (especially the roll bar) are simply not to be found in the film.


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## Solium (Apr 24, 2005)

I think most of the time the damaged rollbar was hidden by animated (fuel escaping?) effects in the film. 

Awesome job by the way!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Need paint advice*

Yeah, that animation really gets in the way of decent on-screen model research! 

I'm happy with the work I've done so far, and I'm glad you guys are looking forward to seeing the finished product (as am I!) I just ordered decals from JT Graphics, so I'm excited to move onto the "finishing" aspect of this project. 

I have a question regarding paint. My ultimate goal is for the base color to be a pearl white. However, I'm running into a couple of challenges. My LHS does not have an enamel pearl white in a spray can. The only options were a Tamiya acryl called pearl white or a Testors lacquor called "white lightning". The guys at the shop recommened "white lightning", so I brought it home and tested it on a spare part which I had primed grey, like the rest of the model. I am not pleased with the final product. Essentially, the "white lightning" is not covering the grey primer, even after 3 coats. Should I have gone with a white primer? Or do I need to find an enamel white pearl?


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## veedubb67 (Jul 11, 2003)

I'm basically doing the same thing on my battle-damaged Refit. I've sprayed it with grey primer and plan on shooting flat white over it before I finish with Tamiya Pearl White. Read somewhere in another thread about the same problem - covering grey primer with the pearl white. They ended up spraying white primer.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Rob
Iwata Padawan


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

This is really awesome work. I wonder if Randy over at VooDoo FX could do a custom lighting effect that would simulate the sparking and fire? I also saw a model at the 2010 NNL West that used an "N" scale train smoke machine for smoke f/x.

Pretty over the top, but this build is magnificent enough to justify it!!

:wave:


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## Kanaan (Jan 27, 2007)

Nice work so far!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Sweet!


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

Really cool build so far. It's not white but light grey. Might try spraying a base in light grey then the aztec in clear pearl. Also recommend using aluminum foil around the torn up sections to show thin, ripped up skin.
Bruce


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I know it's been a long delay since my last post, but I thought I'd give a quick update. I left off with a coat of white primer and a pearlized top coat, which gave the ship a very nice sheen. I purchased the aztec decals which I plan on applying once I start this prject back up. This project has been on hold the last couple months and is currently packed away. My partner and I are in the process of moving and should be finished by mid-May. The good news is, the new place has a garage with 2 work benches, and one of them was used for models by the previous owner! Suh-weet!!! Anyways, I hope to have more updates in a month. Stay tuned!


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## BolianAdmiral (Feb 24, 2009)

Nice work... I like the fact that what damage there is on the model isn't overdone.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

looking good!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Looking forward to seeing your progress. So far, so great!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Thought I'd post an update on this project. I haven't been able to work on it since the earlier part of the year, however. My partner and I moved into our new house a few months back (being victims of the recession, we lost our house to foreclosure). Our new house has a garage with tons of peg board, and I knew I'd finally have a space for the workbench I've always wanted. I built one out of old deck boards (the bank could take our house, but we brought the deck with us, lol) and I must say it's finally nice to have a place to lay out all of my modeling supplies without having to clean them up, much like when I'd use the dining room table. That said, off to the project...

My battle-damaged Reliant made it through the move in one piece. I'm working on painting and finishing touches at the moment. Trying to find a realistic paint scheme to show battle damage. I decided to use a black base, covered with a dark grey, and then dry brushed on to give a scorched and burned look to the damaged areas. I'll post pictures later today to show what I mean. I'm not the happiest with the results, though, and would love some advice on how to get that "burned" look down just right.


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## cireskul (Jul 16, 2006)

Excellent. I had the same idea, with those prop photos. You beat me to it. Keep us updated.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

*Update with pictures*

As promised, here's some update pictures of my WIP battle-damage USS Reliant. This is my first attempted at many things, including customized frame work and painting on battle damage. I'm fairly happy with the results so far, although I have a lot more work to do (and some paint fixes to make as well)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/6232851814/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/6232329783/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/6232329513/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/6232329217/


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

WICKED.looks great.


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I think it looks quite good!


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

This is seriously awesome!!!


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## Robert Hargrave (Dec 4, 2003)

The blast damage effect looks really great, lots of small detail to pull the viewers eye across the roll bar and beyond. Again looks great.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Just to give a quick update. I'm currently working on getting the details painted (I mistakenly left out detail painting in some places where I already dry brushed the damage areas...guess I was in a hurry to wreck the ship!) Once this is finished, I'm going to revisit some of the damaged areas and see if I can add more details, specifically around the port nacelle pylon. Then its on to decals and sealing! I'm ready to be done with this one, that's for sure!


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Wow I didn't know people were making battle damaged versions that looks amazing!


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Looks good. I'm assuming you are using paint to dry brush. Chaulk pastels work very well for that kind of detailing. When applied in layers, with something like a make up brush, go on very smoothly and you can be as subtle or dramatic as you want. Cheap too. Just be careful when handling and seal with a flat clear to protect what you've done.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Yep, I used paints for dry brushing. I've dry brushed miniatures before, but I used acrylics to do that, never enamels, so this was my first attempt with those. Chalk, huh? I had never thought to use chalk! Maybe worth trying sometime.


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Chalk pastels, just to be clear. A good set is inexpensive and last a very long time.
Run the pastel along some sand paper to obtain the powder, then dip the brush in the powder. Work the excess out on a piece of paper(or not depending on the desired effect), then apply to the model. Building up the color in layers is usually the way to go beacause it gives you control. Then when you have it where you want it, seal it with a lite coat of flat clear, not too much or the color may run. If you don't seal it, the chalk will rub off. Make up brushes are the best for this and come in a variety of sizes. Your wife might have a couple extra, she can give you to give it a try with. 

The nice thing they can be used on any model for any type of subtle or dramatic shading effect, without the need for a airbrush.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Starting to look just like the movie. I love the movie scene where the whole upper "wing" lurches from the force of explosion! BOOM!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Thanks for the tips on chalk. I don't have a wife, but I dabble in clowning and have a whole bunch of makeup brushes that I could use. Great ideas!!!


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## Jay Chladek (Apr 17, 2001)

So what was your solution on the paint. I was going to chime in, but the posting was quite a number of months ago. BTW, I have found that when turning a model in primer gray to a white shade, usually one of the easiest ways to do it is to spray the whole thing in white paint as opposed to white primer as it tends to be more opaque. Then you don't have to go as thick on the pearl coats later because pearls spray kind of thin anyway.

Main thing to keep in mind with pastel powders is they work best on a flat painted surface so they can lock into the paint grain. On a glossy surface, they tend to wash off too easily. Plus, the finer the sand paper used to grind them, the more resistant they are to rubbing out in my experience.

Very nice work on the battle damage BTW. It is shaping up to be an incredible looking model.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

That looks awesome!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

A few updates. Need to correct some decal issues and make some final touch ups. Almost done!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/6838459539
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gsaum/6838459735


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Excellent, sir! Wish I had that on my shelf! Top drawer build!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Absolutely awesome work! Makes me want to watch STII right this minute!:thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Absolutely awesome work! Makes me want to watch STII right this minute!:thumbsup:


*"To the last, I will grapple with thee... from Hell's heart, I stab at thee! For hate's sake, I spit my last breath at thee!" *


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## Jim NCC1701A (Nov 6, 2000)

Wow!

That's outstanding :thumbsup:


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

Nice work.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Great work! That's some truly well done damage!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

There's an art to damage like that, that's no _run-behind-the-Mission-Impossible-dumpster-with-a-lighter_ approach.
:jest:


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Chrisisall said:


> There's an art to damage like that, that's no _run-behind-the-Mission-Impossible-dumpster-with-a-lighter_ approach.
> :jest:


Thanks! This was the first build I've tackled in almost 15 years. I originally built this kit in the 90s, and then stored it and forgot about it. When I dug it up last year, I decided it would be fun to redo it. So I disassembled it, stripped it of paint, reassembled it, customized the damage, and painted it. I'm fairly happy with the result. This build, and the next few builds, are all practice for me, to sharpen my skills before I tackle the mother of all Trek builds: the 350 E.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

GSaum said:


> This was the first build I've tackled in almost 15 years.


Pretty {colourful metaphore} impressive way to burst back on the scene!:thumbsup:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

I'm not a trek fan in any way, but I had to look at this to see what a "Reliant" is. Excellent painting skills! I would show some of what I've done lately, but the local experts here say my work is crap.  I hope to learn to build my models like this. 

I guess that thirty years of modeling haven't done me any good! :freak: Thanks for sharing this, it's inspiring to see someone do a job like this - even after not doing so for such a long time. 

~ Chris​


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## clint2465 (Apr 1, 2013)

*battle damage*

did you use styrine strips for the detail in the photon torpedeo


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Shouldn't the bridge area be damaged? I remember phaser fire on the bridge (the scene where Joachim is killed)? Other than that, this looks fantastic!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

There is phaser damage directly behind the bridge. Don't remember if it shows up in these pics or not. It was next to impossible to locate the exact damage on the studio model, so I took a guess as to it's location based on the shots in the film.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

clint2465 said:


> did you use styrine strips for the detail in the photon torpedeo


Yep, I did! Several different sizes. I then beat them up with a soldering iron and painted the several shades of gray. I also put in some sheet styrene to give off the illusion of a shattered interior.


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

This is very nicely done. Your finish is very sanitary. Like it!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

What do you mean by "sanitary"? I don't think I've ever heard of a model described as such before!


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

This is amazing ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: You could have told me this was one of the studio models used in the movie. And I would have believed it. I've seen a few builds where people tried building the damaged Reliant. But never one this dead-on accurate. You really nailed it !!!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

DCH10664 said:


> This is amazing ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: You could have told me this was one of the studio models used in the movie. And I would have believed it. I've seen a few builds where people tried building the damaged Reliant. But never one this dead-on accurate. You really nailed it !!!


Wow! Thanks for the compliment. It was my first model in over 10 years, and one I'm proud of.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

GSaum said:


> It was my first model in over 10 years, and one I'm proud of.


Please, make some more!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Man, I hope my Reliant turns out half as good looking as this one! Really great job!


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## lizzybus (Jun 18, 2005)

I'm 3/4 the way through a 1:350 Reliant build and your awesome ship has inspired me to forge on!!!!

Rich


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

lizzybus said:


> I'm 3/4 the way through a 1:350 Reliant build and your awesome ship has inspired me to forge on!!!!
> 
> Rich


Rich, I hope you share pics with us! Would love to see your work!


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## harristotle (Aug 7, 2008)

Wow, outstanding job!


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## kangg7 (Jun 21, 2000)

VERY, VERY NICE!!!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:



The galaxy and infinitum:wave:

Dave


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## H.Erickson (Sep 1, 2005)

Nice work! Really cool!


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

Thanks! I'm pretty proud of it. It remains unfinished, though. The model is mostly done, but the base is unfinished. A move not long after I started this project (and now a new teaching assignment) has really cut into my model building time. However, I'm thinking of using some time around the upcoming holidays to finally finish this one!


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## modelsj (May 12, 2004)

Very professionally done, awesome!


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