# ho controller



## stirlingmoss

Im running afx,aw,thunderjets,tyco,life-like etc with stock black afx tomy and tyco hand controllers(which I think are 90ohm)..seems ok but what ohm is recommended to run all of these ho's? 45? 60? don't want to spend lots on a adjustable parma based version because I don't race I just race with my kids at home. I have a 4x16ft aurora lock and joiner track..
this is the power supply I use that I got free from work.


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## alpink

I have heard that FRAY type cars respond well to 90 OHM Parma type controllers.
my forays into turning left and/or right are limited, so I don't really know details.
my usual course only has one long straight and then you have to walk to the end and retrieve the cars.
in slot drag racing, just about anything works.


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## Rich Dumas

There is no simple answer to your question. In my opinion no single resistor based controller is going to be perfect for every type of HO car. Most people use a 90 ohm controller with T-Jet type cars, but some people prefer a controller with a 100 or 120 ohm resistor. For Magnatraction and X-Traction cars a 60 or 45 ohm controller would work better. With modern inline HO cars like Tyco, Tomy and Lifelike most people use a 45 ohm controller. For aftermarket brands like Scale Auto/BSRT, Slottech and Wizzard a 35 or 25 ohm controller would be better. There are tricks that can be done with resistor based controllers that are supposed to make them more versatile, those have not worked very well for me. A person might end up with quite a collection of resistor controllers, and that can add up to a fair amount of money. For more than a year Parma has not sold their Economy controllers, no supplier that I know of still has those in stock. If you want to use Economy controllers you have to find used ones. Replacement resistors are still redily available however. More robust Parma controllers like the Plus and Turbo are still in stock, but are more expensive. It might be worth considering buying an electronic controller of some sort, those have brake and sensitivity adjustmants that make them suitable for any type of HO car. Professor Motor, OS3 and Difalco are among the brands to consider.


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## stirlingmoss

thanks guys


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## slotking

as said, it really up to you.
as mentioned that they 25 to 35 for the purpose built race cars
I like 15 to 25.
for fray cars, 110 to 120 seems better for me.

for box stock tycos or life likes, I like 35ohms

that is why I use a electron controller, it just works

you have professor motor units or OS3 units that should cover most of your playing


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## stirlingmoss

why couldn't one use a digital controller from a 1/32,1/43 scx or carerra set?
I see them around online for 10-15 bucks for a pair.


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## alpink

I think those "digital" controllers are tuned to specific "frequencies" that only a specific car will respond to.
I believe they are from sets that allow more than one car per lane and lane changing.
I don't know if they will work with "analog" cars?


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## slotcardan

.......


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## SDMedanic

If you want the right controller for afx,aw,thunderjets,tyco,life-like and more you are going from the slowest pancake gravity car to a decent in-line magnet car. For a case like this an adjustable electronic controller is the best choice. You would need two to three Parma resistor controllers to do the job vs one good e-controller.


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## stirlingmoss

I have seen the prices on these controllers..$100-250.00? are these people out of there mind??
the internal parts that make up these controllers cost no more than $50,
I have r/c car,heli and airplane 2.4ghz transmitters that cost less than these controllers.


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## slotking

> I have seen the prices on these controllers..$100-250.00? are these people out of there mind


te parts are not as cheap as you think. yes you can uy what looks like the same part, but they are not. I have seen people try.

then you have to assemble the unit, which is a labor cost, else why build them??

having used many different controllers, the electronic ones are well worth the cost if your a serious racer.

but lets say I am not, but I run t-jets, afx mags, box stock tyco/LL, super stock inline cars. That may be 4 different ohm controllers for some folks, times 4 lanes, is 16 controllers with different feels to them.

yes I was there at 1 time, it sucked.


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## swamibob

Since the OP has an adjustable power supply, I think he could use a 45 or 60 ohm controller and dial the power to a point where the specific type of car in question works well with that controller. 


Tom


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## Rich Dumas

Most HO cars are intended to be run at 18-20 volts. If your controller is too touchy you could drop the voltage to get better control, but the car would run slower. That might be acceptable in some cases. If you had a boxstock T-jet and a 25 ohm controller you probably would have to drop down to 10 volts, you could now drive the car, but it would be bog slow. The opposite situation is not as bad, if your controller has too high of an ohm value you would have to pull the trigger more to get the car moving but often you can live with that. If you only run one type of car all of the time it is easy to pick the right controller, if you run a big variety of cars you can use controllers that are a compromise, at least up to a point.


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## Dslot

Old Aurora Russkit style controllers, always available on eBay - one of the great bargains :thumbsup: of slot racing for home racers. 










Here's *some info* *(posts 26 & 27)*, with more *here*; *post 32, 35, and after.*

I'd guess with a golden yellow AFX controller and a dark blue Tjet controller for each lane, and your adjustable power supply, you ought to be able to get very good performance from any of the cars you mention. Stereo type plugs on the controllers and input jacks at the track will mean you can switch controllers easily, or you could just leave both types permanently attached to each lane and just use the one that's best for the car. Adjust the voltage to fine-tune - on short home type tracks, 12-16 volts is generally more driveable than the 22v or so of stock set powerpacks. You can also adjust the voltage down to match each kid's level of skill.

Actually, with that adjustable power supply, you might well be able to get away with just a pair of the yellow AFX ones.

Advantages: much _much_ cheaper than buying electronic controllers; excellent reliability.

Disadvantage: These have no braking, unless you get the less-common three-wire AFX ones, or add the brake wire and internal contact yourself.

Have fun. :wave:

-- D


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## stirlingmoss

thanks guys!


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## leonus

Dslot said:


> Old Aurora Russkit style controllers, always available on eBay - one of the great bargains :thumbsup: of slot racing for home racers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's *some info* *(posts 26 & 27)*, with more *here*; *post 32, 35, and after.*
> 
> I'd guess with a golden yellow AFX controller and a dark blue Tjet controller for each lane, and your adjustable power supply, you ought to be able to get very good performance from any of the cars you mention. Stereo type plugs on the controllers and input jacks at the track will mean you can switch controllers easily, or you could just leave both types permanently attached to each lane and just use the one that's best for the car. Adjust the voltage to fine-tune - on short home type tracks, 12-16 volts is generally more driveable than the 22v or so of stock set powerpacks. You can also adjust the voltage down to match each kid's level of skill.
> 
> Actually, with that adjustable power supply, you might well be able to get away with just a pair of the yellow AFX ones.
> 
> Advantages: much _much_ cheaper than buying electronic controllers; excellent reliability.
> 
> Disadvantage: These have no braking, unless you get the less-common three-wire AFX ones, or add the brake wire and internal contact yourself.
> 
> Have fun. :wave:
> 
> -- D


These are what i use.

The best part is you can take them apart and repair them, unlike the glued together pieces of trash that replaced them.

I even found that you can use the resistor from a newer glued together one by cracking it open and transplanting it. Its the same size. You will find the resistance value stamped on one end. It takes a bit of skill, solder, and super glue..


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## Boosted-Z71

You could also get 100 ohm heavy duty wire wound resistors at Radio Shack that worked great as a replacement resistor in these controllers, especially for t-jet specific controllers.

Boosted


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