# First layout table built:WIP



## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

*Ok I just found HT has a train forum! Sweet! I spend a lot of time on the diecast boards and trains are my new addiction! Thought I would share here!*

*Ok as per request here is the thumbs up for my HT friends! Thanks for all the support Mrs.CP and Hobbytalk friends. Here is a few update pics. I finally got all the roadbed glued down tonight now to nail it all down and start soldering track and running drop lines. This is cool! Like the biggest model I have ever built! All how I want to build it too! No real plan here! Here is the thumbs up guys! *


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I wouldn't solder. Nice track plan.


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

Y3a said:


> I wouldn't solder. Nice track plan.


*No solder? Why not? *


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

The rail joiners will do just fine. Heat and cold will cause small changes in the length of the rails. Soldering will just cause the track to buckle. you are using sectional track. The rail joiners can be swapped out for ones with wires attached for better electrical contact if needed. I have 20 or so sets on a layout with just under 300 feet of track. Usually, I place them around the switches (Turnouts) and I use DCC.. Regular DC is no different as far as connections are concerned.

BTW - the 3rd photo shows a BIG NO-NO! Acquire a set of smaller sections of track. The curve connected to the turnout is too much and the straight track connected to it has a kink. This will cause derails, and a steamer can't even go through it.


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## Parts Pit Mike (Jan 3, 2001)

Yeah Y3a is right about the curve on that turnout. Will give you a lot of trouble if you don't "smooth it out".

MB


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Can I suggest replacing the "Snap" switches (or #4 turn out) with the Atlas #6 Turn-out. It might give you more of the angle you want and the length of it (12 ") could possibly eliminate the kink. 

Also, longer trains can go through the #6 turn out better. 

Looks good though. One day I'll have to show my WIP Layout. 

I'm using the old Brass Track on mine!


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## Static Addict (Nov 2, 2010)

Nice track plan. I agree with others comments. Good trackwork is the key to enjoying your railroad. Nothing else is as important as having solid, dependable well planned trackwork. Yours looks good, except for the aformentioned issues. Great looking table!! Have fun.


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## Parts Pit Mike (Jan 3, 2001)

So... any more progress on this?


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## 54belair (May 12, 2009)

c-p! I thought I might find you here. Your track layout is coming along nicely. :thumbsup: I'll check back later on to check on your progress.

:wave:


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## Full Flaps! (Sep 26, 2010)

CP, you must never leave your basement now. Save for the occasional trip to Wally and TRU! :lol:

I love a good diorama in the making. Can't wait to see what you create of that little train world! :thumbsup:


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

*The below is copied from a Train Forum. Thats kinda where I have been. Sorry guys. Here is a few pics of where the progress is now. Thanks for all the above advice guys! However I am going to disagree on not soldering. Every track piece is soldered as well as feeders every 36". I am following the advice of a few seasoned Model RR guys and DCC is in the near future! The turn out in question is now under a Mountain and it actually has no problems either direction running 2 Locos and 20 cars full throttle! I know next time I will use all 36" flextrack to avoid silly kinks and have more freedom to do whatever!*

Ok Saturday night. 2-12-11. As per Seans advice I picked up quick set drywall compound and it worked much better than the joint compound in a bucket. Mix it wet and brush it on. This is 5 or 6 coats across the whole thing. Thanks again for the help on the Tunnel Portals Dude! Everybody that see's it says WOW! I kinda like it too! 
I have access from the rear and side for any derails or problems. I didn't plan any sort of mountains in this when I started. I was thinking Flat Desert would be easy. But The Mojave Desert isn't flat. Now to try and Color it to look like the Calico Mountains in Barstow Ca. Even though it kinda looks like some of the rock formations along the Railroad through the Cajon Pass Interstate 15 between San Bernadino and Victorville for anyone familiar with that area.


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

Sunday afternoon update. I removed the wood guardrails and used the same building method to keep the trains from falling to their death on the floor! Only 2 coats on these now that I am using the right stuff! thanks Sean. :thumbsup:


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

Ok so here is an update for 2-16-11. The paint is still wet but it is a satin finish. I wanted to get some sort of base coat on so I picked up some rustoleum satin brown and thinned it with acetone and slopped it all over the Mountains. A little darker than I was thinking but I will work with it. I need to go Visit Calico Mtns. and gather some rock and sand to bring this to life!


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## 54belair (May 12, 2009)

Got your PM - good hearing from you. WOW - your track set-up is coming along nicely. Your terrain gets more and more realistic looking with each step that you've been adding. Keep up the great work - I'll stop in from time to time to check in on you...

:wave:


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

Hey thanks Cousin 54! Good to hear from ya'! 

Tried a little different method today. I added black paint instead of gray (duh) but a little darker than I wanted. Maybe I am going to need paint the other slabs to match. Also I spread some wood glue first and put some staples in the wood to help the slabs adhere th the wood. I like it but it a little brittle for my taste. I may still redo all of this with a Portland Cement slurry with a little sand for strength and texture. 
I thought I would have a little fun with a few pics and some diecast cars and trucks.


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)




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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

So today i needed to fix the grade to the upper level. After I mellowed out the first 6 feet I saw a rusty little turnout staring at me wanting to be used! Hmmmmm.... No where to go but up right! Here we go!
Also the crappy paving I did was removed. Don't try my stupid paving idea. It was fun but too brittle and not attached to the ABS very well. Anyways It was getting too close to "done" and that scared me because when this is done I know I will need to go way *BIGGER* I am learning what works and what doesn't with this layout. If I clean out my 2 car garage maybe I will go totally NUTS in there. She doesn't like it in the Living room so much anymore!
Anyways I'm not sure what or where this wanna be helix is going or if it will even work but I will let you guys know. I did some research on building a Helix on youtube and this forum and a few others as well. I know what those guys are building are 4 foot across or better for HO.
I used to work at a place that manufactured all thread rod and pipe hangers and supports for Fire Sprinklers and plumbing. Man I should have stocked up. I saw a few nice easy to build helix's made using all thread and nuts for easy adjustment. With that said I won't pay Home Depot prices for that sort of material so maybe its time to visit some Ex coworkers and say Hi! 











Demo almost done!











Cleaned up a little and got the crappy easy track outta here!





























After fixing the grade as per Sean's 1" per 3 foot rule I glued down the flex track I scored yesterday. Man this is the way to go! Super easy and 36" goes a long ways! Flex track is the way to go!



















I also cut more roadbed and clipped it in place to see where I can go with this. The spacers here are temporary and not cut to size on the 3rd level. Also obviously a few are in the way of where the tracks go. I will have to be creative on these supports for the 3rd level!


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)




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## gunn (Sep 30, 2002)

looks good cp.
i just picked up the march issue of model railroader. this issue has 2 books in it for $5.95
the back book shows how to make real looking roads. and there is how too's inside the main book one is on making connifer trees cheep. and 4x8 layouts.
i love these books. i take out all the how toos out of them and put them in a 3 ring binder. i know i sent bob87 at least 16 books of how too's and i kept 20 for myself.


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

gunn said:


> looks good cp.
> i just picked up the march issue of model railroader. this issue has 2 books in it for $5.95
> the back book shows how to make real looking roads. and there is how too's inside the main book one is on making connifer trees cheep. and 4x8 layouts.
> i love these books. i take out all the how toos out of them and put them in a 3 ring binder. i know i sent bob87 at least 16 books of how too's and i kept 20 for myself.


Thanks Gunn! I picked up the Magazine also. First one. Funny thing when I broke all that crap out of the layout, I needed to sweep it all up I grabbed the little How to freebie to use as a dust pan and thought I would look at it first and see what it was. Haha. Im a dumb [email protected]#! I thought it was an advertisement and it had been on my desk for a week. Workshop tips: Roads and Streets. Guess I might read it now. Only thing I don't like is their push to use their products. I like to build with everyday materials whenever possible. A lot of times their "specialty" products are the same we get at the hardware or craft store just in much smaller quantities!


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## gunn (Sep 30, 2002)

well i dont by there stuff unless i cant find something free or easyer to use.
i look at the hobby shop what thay use. and read the side pannel for ingreadance. and see if something cheaper is out there. but if you read what thay use for coloring the road thats a good tip but you may find the same paint - diffrent maker cheaper.
ive got so many tips now some the same but diffrent way to do it. i save them.
usally i read them at walmart. if it has good info i buy it.
i just figured i would pass it on to ya.


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

Here is an update for tonight 2-22-11. I worked out a few spots I could sneak a pillar under and completed the 2nd circle. Tried my best to stick to 1" rise per 3 feet. After the glue dries in the AM I will glue down more flex and see where this might go????


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## bob8748 (May 1, 2004)

Hey CP. I found this a while back and posted it before. An alternate method for your roads...
http://www.all-model-railroading.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=90544


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## concretepumper (Mar 7, 2010)

Ahhh yes I remember seeing that before but , Thanks for posting it. I am going another direction with the layout now so road work is on hold for now. :thumbsup: :wave:


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

DELETED as was the offensive post above mine that needed to be deleted.


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