# At the risk of beating an already well beaten horse...



## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Who has used the cork roadbed for borders and turn aprons?... I like the look (color and texture wise), but does it last (stay stuck) and does it work for sliding tjets (too much texture or too little)?? Who likes it, who dislikes it, and why?? A new track is in my future and any info (and pics) will be greatly appreciated...tjd


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

It only costs $1.35 for 6 ft. to give it a test.

I run mostly T-jets and I like HO cork roadbed a lot. Cheap, easy to put down, easy to take up if you change the track, easy to extend along the straights for a bit to keep the flung-out wheel from dropping off the end.

I tried cutting sheet material for aprons, but always ended up with gaps to fill. Cork goes where you put it. Just pull the roadbed strip apart lengthwise, stretch one half along the edge of the curves and tack it down with wire brads (thin nails) just inboard of the bevel. If it buckles, pull up a nail or two with pliers and redo it. Run it down the straight a bit and cut it to merge into the track. It cuts easily with a hobby knife.

If the thickness doesn't exactly match your track, you can add shims of cereal-box cardboard underneath, but I've never found the small mismatch to be a problem. The cars take it in stride. (Run a test with your track, to be sure).

I painted mine with a light spray of flat black. I suppose you could paint it white, then tape off for alternating sections of red or whatever while it is still straight, but I've never done it. Or you could easily tape off everything but the inside 1/8", and spray a white track border line while it is straight. 

I put a standard soft-plastic guardrail at the edge of the cork to catch any deslots. It's soft, looks good and has some give if you just put the brads on the outside of the end uprights, rather than driving them through the bases. (see the image. And note the dimple from the nail too close to the track edge. Avoid this.)

My layouts are temporary, so I can't tell about long term wear, but I doubt it's a problem. If it is, cork is cheap and easy to replace.

-- D


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2007)

I like it. I painted it black on the straights and outside of the curves and red/white stripe on the inside of the curves. Looks cool. I also like it for all the reasons Dslot mentioned. One shop i know sells it cheaper by the full box. mj


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## [email protected] (Jan 25, 2007)

*Rumble strip*

To paint it red/white i suggest brushing on white primer because the cork is very porus and the primer will make the finish paint look more solid. Just tack down a bunch parrallel get a big brush and go at it. Let dry. I use a heat gun about two feet away. Spray the white first. Dry... then tape off and spray the red. Its easy. Ive had mine on for six months and they wear well. mj


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Cork is not quite track height which is why I didn't use it. But it is cheap so that's a plus.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

I took a few sheets of sticky-backed craft felt and cut it into strips the width of the cork, then stuck the strips to the backside of the cork, it brought it dead on flush for Tomy track. You can only see a small bit of it here but it's the clearest closeup shot I've got of it.










I sprayed mine first with primer then black enamel, going on two years together now and it's seen lots of racing on it. T-Jets slide just like they were on the inner lanes.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Thanks everybody...*

I appreciate all the input and especially the pics!!! :thumbsup: ... May not paint mine, except the turns... not sure. Kinda like the contrast between the green turf, brown border, and black track. Gene!... Can't help but notice the tight joints you achieved. I don't see any screws. Any tips on how you got these results? I plan on buzzing off those little nublettes on the Tomy track pieces, but are there any other clickety clack killers?...thks again! tjd


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Almost forgot....*

Anyone ever remove the painted graphics on the Tomy track? Was wondering if there is something that takes off the graphics without harming the track? tjd


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## ic-racer (Jan 21, 2007)

*Track Border*

I used one quarter inch by 3/4 inch black foam weatherstriping. It has a 'peel and stick' back and is flexible to conform to the track shape.


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## ic-racer (Jan 21, 2007)

tjd241 said:


> Anyone ever remove the painted graphics on the Tomy track? Was wondering if there is something that takes off the graphics without harming the track? tjd


I tried a number of things and wound up just sanding the graphics off with sandpaper.


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## wm_brant (Nov 21, 2004)

TJD --

The new 'dual power track' from Tomy has much less intrusive graphics on it. 

This new track also allows you to runs a wall-ward per lane, eliminating power surges when a car leaves the track. 

Here is a link showing what the graphics look like in a posting on SCI. There are pictures of the new track over on that auction site. Just use Google to look for "Tomy AFX 15" Dual Power Track".

-- Bill


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*I can tell you one thing NOT to use...*



tjd241 said:


> Anyone ever remove the painted graphics on the Tomy track? Was wondering if there is something that takes off the graphics without harming the track? tjd


Do not try brake clean!
While it will remove the graphic, it will also melt the track...
Ummm... Don't ask me how I know....... :lol: 


Scott


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

tjd I cut only the tops of the "bumps" on the underside of the track. Actually, I filed about 1/2 off each and every one. In this pic, the bottom piece is untouched, the top piece is filed:










I wish all the joints look as nice as that pic I posted does, Tomy takes a little bit of "fudgin'" to get it all to come together, and temp changes do affect the joints. Overall it is a good track to run on.

I didn't use screws to hold it down, I used LifeLike 1/2" train track nails. Countersunk the holes just a hair with one of these dremel bits chucked into a pin vise, works like a charm.


Scott, how _do_ you know what brake clean does to track? :tongue:


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

In regards to grinding down the bumps, I did as Gene has pointed out, but also ground down one other area. I found that it was very hard to get the 'bump' ground off in the corner area identified by the rectangle in the following pic.



So I also removed just a portion of the top piece bump, as identified in the circle on the pic.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*This is all great stuff....*

Thanks and keep it coming. A lot of new tracks are in the works and all this input is invaluable to those of us in the process of planning and building them. HT is THE place to go for the 411 on all things slot car. :thumbsup: nd


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Grind the tab that faces down flat and you don't need to mess at all with the tab that faces up.

Dig it?


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

1976Cordoba said:


> Grind the tab that faces down flat and you don't need to mess at all with the tab that faces up.
> 
> Dig it?


Or, if you are having trouble getting out that lil bit of the lower bump where it meets the vertical face, you can grind off a tad of the bump that faces down. (I thought that was what my prior post and picture explained).

Dig that!


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*Grind?*

No grinding for me...
I used a razor knife to carefully slice the offending bumps off the tabs...
And I still have most of my fingers..... 
Doh!
(seriously, be careful doing this...)

Scott


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

I used a file, cuz I'm a glutton for punishment. :freak:


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