# Aurora AFX vs Tomy AFX



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

My track is a Tomy AFX build.










I am wondering if I can rebuild this track using Aurora AFX.
I can simply swap for the track and not really be out any money.

I know the advantages and shortcomings of both...
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=3973684&postcount=3

Big question is turn sizes. I have an 18" outside sweeper on one end.
Did they make this size in Aurora AFX? Or was 15" the largest radius?

Thanks...


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Biggest was 15" for AFX. You could do all Aurora AFX and use adapters for the 18" curves, or if you're feeling adventurous you could splice the ends of the Tomy on the straight sections just prior to the 18's. 

Or if you're really crazy you could use flex track and fill in the rough stuff with black clay.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Thanks for the info Joe!!!


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I believe lane spacing is the same Rich.. Yankee3B was able to mate the ends in a couple places on Castleburg. As I recall, he had a bridge track and service roads that were coupled to Tomy track.


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## vansmack2 (Feb 9, 2012)

There is nothing like reviving an old thread.

There are Tomy AFX 18" curves. I bought some off of EBAY a year or so ago.

Here are some currently being sold on EBAY.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-BRAND-NEW...310725511141?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item4858af07e5


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## RiderZ (Feb 19, 2007)

He already has the the Tomy 18". He wants AFX 18's which were never produced.


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## vansmack2 (Feb 9, 2012)

RiderZ said:


> He already has the the Tomy 18". He wants AFX 18's which were never produced.


OK, I misread it.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Aren't there adapters from AFX to Tomy? They are most likely 3" so he'd have to either make adapters himself, or reconfigure the track.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Yes, I have been interested in duplicating my track in old AFX. I have accumulated a 
bunch of track and can get more if I need it. I go back and forth between that and 
routing a new track just like it. The time and expense would be about the same.
Or, I would like to replace it with this track...










It is almost the identical layout to the one I have. Mine is on a 16ft table, this one on a 14ft.
It is a custom routed track.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Question - why swap out the Tomy for Aurora? I'm just curious. Is there some shortcoming in the Tomy track you don't like?

Thanks...Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Old AFX is straight.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

After having my Tomy track set up in my garage for 5 years, I'm starting to have rail connection issues. 
The advantages to Aurora AFX track is there are no tabs to grind at the end of each track.
Because of its design, the rails, slot, and surface junctions can be made smoother than Tomy.
Aurora AFX rail connections are more accessible and easier to solder than Tomy.
Both makes have their issues and are fixable, but you cannot change their designs.
If I am going to solder some 120+ track sections together I would much rather deal with old AFX.

But, that much soldering makes me wonder about routing my own track,
Or buying another track altogether.

That's the long answer Joe...

Did I mention old AFX is straight?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

soldering makes track sorta permanent?

have you considered continuous rail instead? 
cardboard box stitching or some-such!?

I pulled the rail out of 46 pieces of Aurora O-gauge 6" tracks to install continuous rail (donated by Bob Lincoln aka WIZZARD Thank You! ) a long time ago and folks set ET and MPH records on that track. I have sold it 3 times and it is now with it's 4th different owner and still works great.

short of routing or buying professional, I recommend continuous rail.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I thought about that Al, but if I'm gonna do that, would I just route a track for it?
I mean, what are the advantages of continuous rail sectional track verses routed?

Any thoughts?


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

well, if you already have all the AFX track you want and a layout that suits you, then you are just tearing out existing rail and installing continuous.

if you don't have the track yet and/or you want to still decide layout, then the more work intensive routing can be your best bet. you are still installing continuous rail.

I don't know that one is any better than the other.

also understand I have only ever done drag tracks. don't know from turning corners.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

You must have a ton of splinters in yer butt from sitting on the routing or sectional fence by now Rich!! Route a track already!! :lol::tongue:


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Rich,
It's a little off topic, but I have always believed that given a choice of which would make my plastic track experiance better - continuous rail or continuous slot, I would choose continuous slot. In my opinion there is far more banging and deslotting caused by track joints in the slot than track joints at the rails, especially on curves. I can more easily file down rail connections than fill/smooth out gaps in the slot.

I tried an experiment with a Microscalextric which uses braid for pickups. The braid should eliminate all noise cause by rail joints. I still heard a lot of banging at each track joint - meaning it is the slot and not the rail.

I have never been on a continuous rail plastic track so I cannot say how good that would be. But you would still have the issue of uneven road surface and slot joints.

Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

All replies are correct.

I raced on a continuous rail sectional track back in the early 90s. It was smooth I guess.
Hard to remember. Over the years I've heard guys up north swear by them. It brings the
smoothness of a pro track but keeps the nostalgia of a sectional track. All attention is paid
to the slot and surface upon installation, then the rail height on rail install. It's about as 
long a process as routing.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

If the cost is close, I'd recommend getting the routed track. Continuous rail & slot, nothing to mess with & more time runnin laps.


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## pat4gis (Jan 12, 2008)

*Continuous rail or semi continuous curiosity*

Anyone know of articles, or postings on the process if installing continuous rail on plastic track? I have seen several on installation on routed track

It sounds like a big job to get the rail height even. What adhesive is used? Does the available continuous rail match height and magnetic properties of factory rail, which leads to my next question. 

I seem to recall an posting that suggesting pulling rail from your 9" and 12" curves to make a 6" 180 with less joints. I might be interested in just buying equivalent rail (if it exists- source?), and cutting/installing custom pieces to smooth out problem joint areas. It would be interesting to see a chart or formula for what length of rail would be needed for the 4 pieces of rail in various track sections (i.e. 1 x 6"s and would need a 3.5", 5.5", 7".9", 10.8" pieces, using (pi*(R^2))/8) . I have a few sections "esses", hairpin, roundabout, that use 6"'s that could be smoother. Minimal track down time and rebuild effort.

Smooth this track


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Here's the thread on the 6" turns.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=387537

I tried building a few of them. The 9" turn rails will do the inside 180˚ 6" radius turn lane,
but is just short of doing the outside. The inside is usually the trouble one anyways, so
I would recommend just doing the inside.

To re rail the entire track, you would want to by rail equal to your track make.
While the rail is out you will want to make sure the slot at each track junction is smooth.
Then, sand and smooth the entire surface. Since the factory rail install is held in by crimping the rail,
you will be unable to duplicate this. Preferred glues are all over the map, gorilla glue,
super glue, epoxy glue, it goes on and on, it's your choice.
Somewhere someone knows the exact rail height for stock track makes, and what they prefer.
Careful removal of the old rail will help ensure proper height.
Let us know how it goes!


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

pat4gis said:


> I have a few sections "esses", hairpin, roundabout, that use 6"'s that could be smoother. Minimal track down time and rebuild effort.


Before you tackle the job of rerailing problem areas in sharp curves, you better be sure the "problems" you are having are with the rail joint and not the slot joints. Small guide pins can find the tiniest of openings between track pieces.

As I mentioned earlier, a great test is using a Microscalextric car. Since they use braid for pickups, the effect of rail joints is minimized, if not outright negated. Any noise, etc. produced at the track joints is coming from the slot.

Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

This is a great tip. I have had some 6" turns that some cars would not go through due to the gaps the pins hang on.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

How's it goin Pat?


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## pat4gis (Jan 12, 2008)

Have not started. Seems like lots of variables, and not much instruction. Learn as you go project. I know I have slot issues. Tried vinyl spackle with mixed success. Have not soldered or glued sections. It runs, but I have seen better.


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## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

Grandcheapskate said:


> Before you tackle the job of rerailing problem areas in sharp curves, you better be sure the "problems" you are having are with the rail joint and not the slot joints. Small guide pins can find the tiniest of openings between track pieces.
> 
> As I mentioned earlier, a great test is using a Microscalextric car. Since they use braid for pickups, the effect of rail joints is minimized, if not outright negated. Any noise, etc. produced at the track joints is coming from the slot.
> 
> Joe


I don't want to derail this thread, but 1 quick question please. Does using a guide flag (like comes on AW x-tractions or old AFX and magnatractions) help with slot joint issues?


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

tasman said:


> I don't want to derail this thread, but 1 quick question please. Does using a guide flag (like comes on AW x-tractions or old AFX and magnatractions) help with slot joint issues?


Check out this thread for that very discussion...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=205053

Joe


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

The flag type guide can cause issues with L&J track, because the older vibrator track has a shallower groove than the T Jet L&J. Sadly, this is one of the things I didn't know about when setting up my big table, and had to trim most of the flags to run the X traction stuff. It only helped a little because the rail height still made running them hard. Too much attraction and not enough "go"...


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

slotcarman12078 said:


> The flag type guide can cause issues with L&J track, because the older vibrator track has a shallower groove than the T Jet L&J. Sadly, this is one of the things I didn't know about when setting up my big table, and had to trim most of the flags to run the X traction stuff. It only helped a little because the rail height still made running them hard. Too much attraction and not enough "go"...


Aurora AFX and Tomy have a slot deep enough to handle the blade side of the pin without trimming. Aurora L&J (of all types) and Tyco are not deep enough and require some trimming. I don't know about Lifelike, Marchon, Artin, Microscalextric, Atlas or Faller, although because Artins come with a long pin, I would guess the slot is pretty deep.

This is why on the earliest AFX you will find a blade pin which is rectangular in shape and not as deep as the later pin with the pin/blade combo. That rectangular pin was made so AFX could run on L&J track.

Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Giving this a bump because...

Well, I finally bought a router.
I'm gonna do a small table top track first. I got a 4x8 of MDF, cut to size, and a 320ft roll of wire for 35 bucks. 

Any thoughts?


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## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

Go for It!!!
please share photos.

Your Tomy track in first photo is a GREAT Layout
and if you don't have 15" and 18" you can just use some 3" and 6" straights
( and NO 6" radius turns!!!) FAST & Fun


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## GT40 (Jan 18, 2014)

You will never know until you try your hand at it.
Just take your time and I'm sure you will do a great job.
Good luck, keep us posted on your cool project.

gt40


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Well, I finally got a router bit. It looked a little big. I run a couple of test cuts anyways. Way too big, so I measured it. Eventhough it is labelled a 1/16 bit, it is actually a 1/8 bit. They will exchange it but have to order a replacement. I'm so disappointed. I was going to be racing on it tomorrow...


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## pat4gis (Jan 12, 2008)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Well, I finally got a router bit. It looked a little big. I run a couple of test cuts anyways. Way too big, so I measured it. Eventhough it is labelled a 1/16 bit, it is actually a 1/8 bit. They will exchange it but have to order a replacement. I'm so disappointed. I was going to be racing on it tomorrow...


Did you route a new track, and lay down the rail?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Nope, not yet. Waiting for just the right season...


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