# Spray paint?



## slotrod65 (Dec 4, 2005)

OK guys, I have a pile o' cars that need paint jobs. I am just curious, what paint do you use? Airbrush or rattle can/spray bomb? Brand? 

I want to get a nice thin coat...

PS: Do I need to prime resin cars, or at least some of them?

Phred


----------



## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

Howdy:
I found a neat trick when painting cars wheter it be resin or plastic. If I plan to use Enamel I will wipe body down with mineral spirits before spraying or Laquer thinner if I plan on using Laquer. I paint mostly with rattle cans but it's hard to get that thin coat you want with them. 
Clyde-0-Mite


----------



## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

I think it's more important to be familiar with your paint than the type of paint used. Even different colors within the same brand spray differently. I'd find something to paint and get used to the can before moving to slot bodies. 

If you want the ultimate in thin enamel, consider 99 cent enamel spray cans. They tend to be super fast drying and lay on super thin. Downside is if you're doing significant color change they need a lot of coats. 

Primer is high-fill and the enemy of detail. 

BTW, enamel either gets recoated while tacky, or after it's dried for several days. In between is just asking for a crazing reaction. Good luck!


----------



## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

I use spray cans and have best results with Plastikote brand paints!


----------



## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Use cans of many brands, all enamel. Prime everything, however I use the flat white enamel as the primer. Works just as well and not as thick. To get a good thin coat, I warm up the paint cans with hot water before spraying. Sprays smoother and finer, just remember to take your time and do light coats. It pays off in the long run.  rr


----------



## wnovess99onebay (Aug 9, 2010)

Model Car World (MCW) has the best paint rattle cans, all lacquer. You can also get House of Color candy paints in a can from them. They are about 10 bucks each.


----------



## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

I use rattle cans from Krylon most often but the Tamiya model cars are a great synthetic lacquer and come in a lot of nice colors. If you want automotive spec lacquer colors, try Testors:

http://www.testors.com/category/136961?n=0

Cheaper than Dupicolor and for me a lot easier to work with.


----------



## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

Hey Phred,

Can't wait to see what you come up with & know you are going to do some great stuff for sure. Pictures are always fun to see on HT!!

I airbrush all my stuff. For me that is the way to go but, it seems that most of the people here on Hobby Talk are Bomb Can experts & do very well with them Phsssssssssssssssssssssssssht. :thumbsup:

Decals are just as fun as paint. If you plan them into the mix with the color of paint you are using on your bodies. Do you have any decals?  LOL

Yellow is a hard color to paint for me because, it likes to show the high spots and body lines. I usualy airbrush a flat yellow Zinc Chromate as a base color first. Then hit it with my gloss yellow to finish it off. 

Light primer or flat base paints are good for covering bodies molded in dark colors if you are going to paint the body in a lighter color.

Metalic and Candy paints get a silver or gold base coat first. The more sparkles in your silver or gold base the better!

With an airbrush you can mix colors and make colors lighter or darker. I can spray my teeny tiney bodies with a nice even light coat every time. Airbrushing is in my eyes easier to do than paint cans...that is just how I roll. 

I have lots of bottles of paint to spray but, by no means is airbrushing cheaper as they charge an arm and a leg for paint in bottles. 

Bob...Hope you don't end up with a case of the runs...zilla


----------



## slotrod65 (Dec 4, 2005)

Thanks guys for all of the info. I stopped at my local HT this evening and picked up this: Purple-licious! YUMMY! The color is very close to the blob sample. 

I am painting a blemmed white resin MEV Hearse. Has anyone oainted MEV cars before? Do they take paint, or do you need primer? I have an email out to Mike V as well to see what he says.

Phred


----------



## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

slotrod65 said:


> Thanks guys for all of the info. I stopped at my local HT this evening and picked up this: Purple-licious! YUMMY! The color is very close to the blob sample.
> 
> I am painting a blemmed white resin MEV Hearse. Has anyone oainted MEV cars before? Do they take paint, or do you need primer? I have an email out to Mike V as well to see what he says.
> 
> Phred


These are both MEV blems:

Starliner

Thunderbird

I'm pretty sure I primed both of them. I use mostly DupliColor or Plastikote touch-up paint in rattle cans. The local odd-lot outlet gets them from time to time for a dollar or less, and i grab any colors that look interesting. I get bigger cans of automotive primer to lay down first. The paint on the black Starliner was for some random import, pretty sure the Thunderbird was Honda St. Tropez Silver or somesuch. I never had much luck getting silver to look really shiny.

--rick


----------



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

if you want custom colors and you use airbrush, investigate nail polish. has to be thinned a lot. I prefer to find em at flea markets and yard sales or even retail on sale. can get some different shades and even color change cheap.


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

*Spray Bombs*

Nice day here today, so I had some painting to do.
I used a slew of paints, including...
Rustoleum Auto, Duplicolor Engine and Plasti-Kote Engine enamels.

It was a reminder of why I love Plasti-Kote so much.
Easy spray, super shine, dries fast.

Rustoleum Auto was a first for me. Predictable and dries fast.
Dries faster than other Rust paints I've used.


Duplicolor enamel SUX. Sorry, SUCKS. BITES. I don't recommend it.
Dull, doesn't cover, water paint would be better.
My opinion could change on that. I'll let you know when it dries.


----------



## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Duplicolor enamel SUX. Sorry, SUCKS. BITES. I don't recommend it.
> Dull, doesn't cover, water paint would be better.
> My opinion could change on that. I'll let you know when it dries.



NTXSC,
Interesting, I use some Duplicolor cans and have had good results. Agreed, it dries dull, but it dries fast and I can start detailing and whatever next with minimal time. As far as dullness, I take care of that with various clearcoats once I'm finished with all the detail work. :thumbsup: rr


----------



## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

roadrner said:


> NTXSC,
> Interesting, I use some Duplicolor cans and have had good results. Agreed, it dries dull, but it dries fast and I can start detailing and whatever next with minimal time. As far as dullness, I take care of that with various clearcoats once I'm finished with all the detail work. :thumbsup: rr


I believe you are using the Auto touch up paint in the can, are you?
That paint is a lacquer and I agree is better. It requires a clear coat.
I was using the Engine Enamel. One step, but off a cliff.
I can't get the variety of solid colors in the lacquer.


----------



## slotrod65 (Dec 4, 2005)

OK, I have had really good results with Testor's one part lacquer spray paint on a MEV resin body, so....

Yesterday I tried to paint an original T-jet Cobra GT with Tamiya spray. The paint refused to settle into the scribed panel lines. I was so disgusted that I dropped the wet body right into by container of Superclean to strip it.

After I thought a while, my first thought was that I may not have properly prepped the body. My prep process was to strip the body of its stripes using superclean, then a rinse in soapy and then clear water, allowed to dry, then the plastic was shined up using novus #2 polish and #1 cleaner. Although I gave the body a quick wipe down with mineral spirits before painting, I cannot be sure I removed all of the soap or polish residue from the engraved seams and intake panels.

The body has been stripped again, and washed. Next.... I was thinking if using a vinegar solution and a soft toothbrush to clean the plastic before mounting it and then wiping down with mineral spirits just before painting.

Does anyone have any thoughts, comments or suggestions?


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

My guess would be the Novus most likely caused the problem, leaving residue in the lines. I've painted only one T jet body and had decent results using automotive lacquer from duplicolor. One thing you might want to try is duplicolor adhesion promoter before laying down the paint. It has come in handy on resin bodies where the release agent just doesn't want to go away.


----------



## slotrod65 (Dec 4, 2005)

I have my suspicions about the Novus as well.


----------



## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

Somewhere between a rattle can and an airbrush are these Preval aerosol paint sprayers. I've had good results spraying all kinds of things with one of these, ranging from shooting small parts on my Camaro with Centari automotive enamels to Pactra Faskolor water based lexan paints on slot bodies. Clean up is easier than an air brush and you can even change the spray tip to others like some fan spray tips found on rattle cans. I've done plastic models with the same Centari enamel on my 1:1 car and the finish comes out amazing.


----------



## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

When it comes to painting there are very few absolutes...except the golden rules...which are that your paint job is only as good as your prep...always shoot a test shot...always clean your airbrush when your done... lay down a good even liqiud film and WALK AWAY! Always spray something unimportant at the same time so you have something to stick your finger in later....cuz ya know yer gonna.

I tend to be overly fussy with the prep work. After 1200 wet I use both a degreaser and a cleanser rouge with an old toothbrush...sometimes twice with special emphasis on the body lines, seams, and nooks and crannies. You can also grind or hone out shiny seams or lines using the cleanser rouge and a good old school round toothpick. 

Properly done the actual painting only takes seconds; like it or not the prepwork is where the real hours should be spent.


----------



## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Bill Hall said:


> Properly done the actual painting only takes seconds; like it or not the prepwork is where the real hours should be spent.



So true!  rr


----------



## slotrod65 (Dec 4, 2005)

It took me years to learn this Bill... I am finally gettin' there!


----------



## slotto (Feb 9, 2010)

What works best for me is the cheapest rattle can that you can get at the Home Deepoo or Mall Mart. Just get a color of your liking. Most times they will result in a flat finish but if you use a good clear coat it will shine like the morning sun.


----------



## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Slott V said:


> Somewhere between a rattle can and an airbrush are these Preval aerosol paint sprayers. I've had good results spraying all kinds of things with one of these, ranging from shooting small parts on my Camaro with Centari automotive enamels to Pactra Faskolor water based lexan paints on slot bodies. Clean up is easier than an air brush and you can even change the spray tip to others like some fan spray tips found on rattle cans. I've done plastic models with the same Centari enamel on my 1:1 car and the finish comes out amazing.



Slott V where did you pick this up? I would try it if I can grab it locally.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

I bought one at Ace hardware.... they're not bad


----------



## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

videojimmy said:


> I bought one at Ace hardware.... they're not bad



Ahh we are in the same neck of the woods so I will check it out, thanks vj:thumbsup:


----------

