# Track Tips from Tang



## TangTester

Hey Everyone,

This is a thread for tips in seting up your BRP car. As most of the racers in the Ohio area know me allready, and the success that I have had with the BRP cars, I have been asked to give setup tips. 

So each week I will have a different topic on settting up the car. I will also like feedback from the racers, do the tips help? or thing that you have tried yourself that have improved your performace. 

Tang


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## TangTester

First tip was one from another thread:



With a Stock Brp motor it is all about keeping speed through the corners because this will give you more speed down the straights. So the first thing is the diff, if the diff is not smooth or its too tight it will kill your speed. Replace the diff balls about every 3rd race day. I use BRP diff lube, and clean the diff aleast once a race day. Also make sure the diff rings are glue to the axle and hub, and there is no glue on the gear side of each. Now to set up the diff, Place your car on the track and hit the gas hard, the diff should slip 2 to 3 feet. DO NOT tighten it so there is no slip. The slip allows the car to accelerate smootly, no wheel hop and carrying more speed down the straightaway.

More tips later
Tang


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## TangTester

Ok this weeks tip:

One of the problems I see, is a car with way tooooo much steering. If you have the maxmium amount of steering in your car, and your car can turn around in less than 2 feet, you can be turning too much. With a stock BRP car speed through the corners is key, if you have too much steering you will only turn the wheel a fraction, to get through the corner. If you notice your line will not be the same. Also when you need to pass someone on the straights a small movement on the wheel will make a large movement on the track. All of that steering scrubs speed off and slowing your lap times.

So what I like to do is look at the track.....find the smallest width lane. Let say it 6 foot acrossed. Set my steering so I can turn around in about a 4 foot circle. So even in the tight hairpins, I will have enough steering to get through. And if I don't have enough I can turn some in with the dual rate on the radio.

Now if you set your car up like that for each track....oval or road you will steer less, which will allow you to carry speed through the corner.


Tang


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## BudBartos

Thanks Tang >> Just So You know Tang is a 8 time BRP series champion with many years of racing under his belt.


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## 2slow00

Tang is my hero!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## 2slow00

Tang, how long have you been a most respected R/C racer?


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## TangTester

MANY MANY MANY Years 2slow00 To many I think.......Did you notice that I had the correct amount of steering in my car this weekend. And we only hit each other once, not our normal 4 or 5 times LOL


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## Micro_Racer

Thank you for the tips Tang. I can say that the tips are very helpful. 
I had a bad habit of setting the diff way to tight (to get that jump at the start) but found that loose was fast. 

One thing I struggle with the V2 is the rear pod. I use the 100 wt shock oil, and keep the spring collar high on the post (top of collar is level with top of post). I also reamed out the hole on the top pod plate. My issue is:
When you place the car on a flat surface, and press down on the chassis on the right rear corner (non gear side) the car will “spring” back to center rather quickly. One you do the same thing to the left side (gear side) the car’s chassis will kind of list to that side, it will not “spring” back. I have noticed when I take my car off the track; the chassis is a little sticky on that rear corner, so the chassis is dragging on the track in the corners – but only on that side. What can I do to correct this problem? BTW I do make sure my car has the proper tweak before each run.

Thanks :thumbsup:


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## TangTester

Mirco,

The problem maybe in the front of the the car.....sometimes when the front end is bound up or a spring has collapes will cause an issue with how the car sits at the rear. It will tweak out right if you are tweaking from the front, but if you tweak from the rear it may show up.
Tang


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## BudBartos

Thats right You may have a front spindle binding slightly. Or one spring is stiffer or longer in length.


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## Micro_Racer

I have been told I may be longer and stiffer


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## BudBartos

Tang>> Can You elaborate on how important a good gear mesh is for speed!!


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## TangTester

Sure can Bud,

With the BRPs the gear mess can make or break a fast run. Too tight and you will be slow and a very good change of burning out a motor. Too loose and you can strip a gear and not finished the race.. You need it just right. Well how do you get that? To begin look at your gears, pinions and spurs. Look for wear on the teeth, brass pinions wear quickly but give you a good mesh. So look at the pinion, if its a 9 tooth stock gear, they a brass with a chome covering, so if the gear has a yellowish color to it, time to replace it. Now look at your spur gear, if its old you can notice the teeth becoming sharp, remember the top of each tooth should have a flat on it. Ok so you gone out and brought a new pinion and spur, the pinion should be good to go on. The spur you will need to look at, sometimes in the manufacturing of spur gears a flashing can be on the edges of the teeth, does not matter if its a BRP gear or someone elses. Check the gear, if there is some, you will need some needle files, they are pretty cheap and you can get them at most tool stores. Take the files and knock off the flashing on the teeth, but be sure not to damage the teeth.

Ok now we have our gears ready to go, put the diff together and check to see if the gear will rotate true on the axle. If it doesnt, check to see if the axle is bent. If it is replace it, don't try to straighten it , you may get it close, but the car will not work right. With the diff together, put the motor in next. If it is a new motor be sure to pre thread the mototr screws into the motor this will lead to less chance to binding when the motor is tighten.

Ok move the motor and mesh the gears, tighten the motor screw alittle, but be able to move the motor still. There should be a little slop in the mesh......this is the black art of setting the mesh. Check the slop in several spots in the spur gear. Next use a run up pack to turn the motor, listen to the mesh as it starts up. You should be able to tell a bound up gear mesh. Now the other side is if it is loose it will be loud also but and different sound. You want the mesh to be as quiet and possible on the start up and run downs. Thats the key..... also if you grab a wheel and spin the diff you can hear the drag on the gears. I nice smooth sound it what you are looking for.

Now if you are happy with your mesh, tighten the screw alittle at a time going back and forth between them...Also you do not need a lot of torque on the motor screws. Check the mesh , does it turn over free and has the slop in it? If it has the slop, but does not turn over as free as it did, you have bound up the motor when you tighten it. DONT WORRY, take a small flat blade screwdriver and place it under the pinion and against the pod and put a little force on the pinion outward. Then tap back towards the center of the car on the pinion. Repeat this a couple of time untill the motor frees up. GUYS this is the reason some of the motors burn up. You need to check for this every time you put your motor in.

So now with good gear mesh your not wasting energy turning the gears and you should be faster. Next time your at the track, listen to the fast cars on the track....you will hear alot less nosie coming from there cars.


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## BudBartos

Thanks!! Remember de bind that motor every time.


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## FrankK

Tang,

Have a couple of questions on gearing. What kind of gearing do use if you are on a road course, that doesn't have a long straight away and has short shutes between turns? What kind of gearing do you use on a high bank oval like Classic? Also have a question on tire size. I see alot of you measuring your back tires. What size area are you looking to keep the rear tires?


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## TangTester

Frank,

Gearing can be a tricky, if I am going to a new track alot times I will ask the fast guys what they are running, but if you can look at their car. Some of the fast guy will give false info. 

Gear ratio::: Spur/pinion = ratio 52/9= 5.7777 48/9 = 5.33333

High the ratio = more acceleration out of the corner
Lower the ratio= more top end speed.


So if you dont have that info I would start with the a 9/48 or 9/52 gearing. Both are pretty safe. What to look for on the track, is good acceleration off the corners and top out speed about halfway down the straightway. 

So when you are praticing listen to you car, does it bog out in the corner, or is it smooth and accelerates out. If you seem to be really fast down the straight but you are getting beat in the infield go to a high ratio. If it seems like everyone is passing you down the straight.....go to a lower ratio.

Now the key factor in of this is how hot is the motor getting. When you pratice for the five mintues, feel the motor.....if it is really hot try a high ratio.....if it is warm and you can hold on to it, try a lower ratio. Once a motor gets extremely hot its perfomance can drop off or burn up.

As far as a big oval, you should start with a 45 and a 9 or 10 pinion......From that I would go higher or lower ratio based on how it performs on the track.

Remember each motor is different, some can have lots of torque with low rpms, these work well with lower ratios. The other end, you can have a motor that screams free revving but, need a higher ratio to keep the rpms up for its performance.

As far as the rear tires in BRP racing, most are measuring to see if there is any difference from left to right. Other forms of racing the tire dia is figure in the ratio this is call the "rollout". The BRP car rear tires wear so little on the carpet is really does not factor much into the set up. On the bigger cars, the tire wear can be so much that each run a pinion tooth maybe needed to kept the same rollout of the car.Biggest thing for the BRP car is that the tires are big enough to give good ground clearance under the chassis and that the chassic sits even front to back. You may need to change the front or backs to gave that clearance.


Last words about gearing, For most road coarses that I have raced on a 48 or 52 spur with 9 or 10 pinion has been good for me. Oval, with a 45 spur a pinion of 10 or 11 and as high as a 12. These all depend on how the gear mesh is set and that the motor is not bound up.


Thanks for the question Frank. Cya at the track


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## Donald Deutsch

Thanks for the input Pat. Sounds good to me.


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## BudBartos

Tang >> Youer da bestest !!!


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## BudBartos

So what is the first tip of the new year????


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## !diot

How about 
"How to hit he other car and make it look like his fault"?? ;-)


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## ghoulardi

*Uh...*

 We're not worthy !!! 
But on a more serious note, do you run any toe in or out? And I also wanna know how to make it "his fault" . :jest:



Indeed


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## BudBartos

I always run a slight amount of toe out !!!! How about it Tang??


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## TangTester

Hey Guys,
Sorry for the delay, I have been pretty busy lately.

!diot, Sorry I cant give away all my skills

ghoulardi, Toe in or toe out.......this can be at debate for some people. On big tracks where your at higher speeds, I have found alittle toe in is good. Toe in make the car more stable and less likely to drift around. On a really tight track or if I need the car to turn in hard, I will run some toe out. When setting the car up I will start with some toe in and adjust the other parts of the car, and then use toe as a last adjustment.
Tang


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## BudBartos

This Tangtester KNOWS His stuff !!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:


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## 2slow00

Do you give lube with your answers?


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## TangTester

Only if I get dinner also!


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## BudBartos

So what is Tangs tip of the week?? Any questions??


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## BudBartos

How about this week any tips?? I need to go faster!!!!!


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## TangTester

Hey Guys,

Sorry for the delay this week, I have been really busy. 

This weeks tip has to do with the front end of the car. The front end of the car, the king pins are one of the most important parts of car setup. If the steering block bind up on the kingpins it car really mess up the cars handling. 

So to start you need to polish the kingpins, you will need some sand paper, 600, 1000, and 1500 grits. You can find the 1000 and 1500 grits at a good auto parts store that deals with autobody and paint supplies.

Inspect the kingpins for any burrs and remove with a fine file, then put the kingpin in a drill holding it by the threads, you don't need to tighten it too tight where it would damage the threads. Then start with the 600 grit, sanding the kingpin, I like to use aliltte WD-40 on the sand paper. Keep going untill an nice even surface is achived. Then switch to 1000 and then 1500 grits until the kingpins have an nice polished surface.

Now the steering block, deburr the kingpin holes. The check for free movement on the kingpin. If not keep polishing or check the steering block for problems.

Now to assembly the front end, place the first nut on the kingpin, and tighten it up. Make sure it bottoms out on the threads, then measure both kingpins from the eclip slot to the top of the nut. They need to be the same. If not adjust one of them to match, and then super glue the nut.

The put the kingpin on to the front on, and put the nut on the bottom and tighten. I like to then put a drop of super glue on the bottom of the nut, this will secure the nuts. ( If you need to hold the kingpin, hold with pilers at top near the eclip slot.
Then put some BRP diff lube on the kingpin, and put the steering block on. Then check then spring measuring their length is the same. The put the green washer on with the eclip. The front end should be nice and free.


During a season I like to change the steering blocks aleast once or twice. The holes in the blocks do wear out and then the block can bind but will feel free under a vertical load, and bind under a side load.


Well now everyone go and free up your steering blocks\
tang


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## Micro_Racer

Thanks for another great tip! :thumbsup: 

Now - how do you adjust the king pin for camber? and how much should you have for:

1. A road course
2. A banked oval
3. A flat oval


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## BudBartos

I never adjust chamber or caster !!! But Tang may


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## BudBartos

Tang >>>>>>> How about the tip on pushing second place over the finish line


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## midget_man1387

Hey guys this may be a dumb question, but how do I tighten my (ball) diff?? I'm getting way too much slip.

Bud-looking forward to friday!!


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## BudBartos

If you have it to were the nut is all the way down You may have to file the brass bushing in the gear so it is thinner. It may be rubbing the wheel hub and not allowing the diff balls to have enough pressure on them. 
Correct Tang??
I will have those Mini T tires friday if You still want them.


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## midget_man1387

yeah i definitely want the tires still. I'll try filing the brass bushing a little.


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## midget_man1387

wow, that was too easy. Fixed just like that! Thanks a bunch, Bud.

Now I've just got to paint my body...


oh yeah, sorry for the double post!


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## BudBartos

See You friday :wave: 


Tang>> Any tips this week???


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## TangTester

Hey Guys,

Here is this week’s tip. One thing I keep seeing and this even happen to me this pass weekend. You need to check your rear pod screws and check them each run. I try to make it a routine after each run to check all of the screws on my car. This past weekend I lost two screws out of the pod
Also you need to check the pod plates to make sure their are not bent. Any bend it the plates could cause a bind in axle or misalign the gear mess. I like to use a steel block placed between the ears on the plate and then placed on flat surface. I then use a hammer to hit the block, which flattens the plate. This only works a couple of times before you need to replace them. I will also try to keep an extra set of plate in my tool box so I can replace them at the track and wait to straighten the others at home. Most of the time you don’t have the means to achieve good results at the track. Don S sells a brass tub which goes between the bushing on the rear pod added strength and alignment to the pod. It’s a pretty good idea and some cheap insurance on keeping the pod straight. 

Catch everyone later.
Tang


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## Donald Deutsch

Great tip, have lost a few of those screws over the years. That is why I have seen some people assemble the pod using 2/56 screws and minature locknuts.


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## BudBartos

Just put a dab of super glue on the bottom ones when set. On screw and pod plate.


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## BudBartos

Frank >> Follow these tips!


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## FrankK

Thanks Bud, I'll try that next week.


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## 2slow00

Tang Where Were You?


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## TangTester

Hey there 2 slow,

I have been working on my house lately....so working on my car getting it ready for racing has not been high on the list. I will be running at classic and then the others at the gate. For some silly reason I want to run the oval instead of road. I must be getting sick or something.

Plus I did not want to miss any of the Bud Shootout, it was pretty good.

Later 
Tang....


PS I should have a tip this week, I am looking for a good topic. Any ideas?


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## 2slow00

Tang the rumors were flying.


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## Donald Deutsch

Excuse me, but wasn't the Shoot Out on Saturday? Inquiring minds need to know.


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## BudBartos

It was rained out !!! Don the car is doing well


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## Donald Deutsch

Being almost bed ridden I foregot the race was run on Sunday. I plan on going back to work Wed. Bud I am happy with the way the sale is going. This way I can spend more money on my Buds car. I will have to see if I can find anything else we turn a few bucks on.


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## ghoulardi

Do you mean to tell me "TANG LIKES OVAL" ?


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - now that I have followed all your chassis tips - how do I get the most out of my 16d motor?


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## TangTester

HEY Guys,

Mirco, I have found that getting the most out of a 16d motor is not that hard. Some motors will run better then others, there is not much we can do about that. The key is when you do find one, to take care of it. The bigger enemy to a motor is heat, one over heating a motor can kill its preformance. So what is tooo hot, well feeling the motor after a run, can you leave your hand on it. If you can't then its tooo hot. So what causes that, over gearing can cause heat in the motor. Running to small of spur gear or to big of a pinion. Remember the straightaway is only a third or a quarter of your total lap time for a lap. So being the fastest down the long straightway is not the answer......it looks cool. Gear mesh.....we talked about this before to tight of a gear mesh will bind and put a extra load on the motor. The last thing is the rear axle, make sure its nice and free, any bind will heat the motor up.

Also, if I find a good motor I will pratice with another motor and save the good one for the race. I try to keep the time on a motor as low is prossible.

I have had a fast motor last over 16 races, this motor has won many many races. I am lucky no one claimed it. 

Well catch everyone later
tang


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## midget_man1387

thanks for the tip(s) tang!

Could you give a rundown of the lubes that should be used(as in what weights)? I know there is 100wt for the damper but how about the kingpins and diff and anything else that must be lubed???


~Brian G.


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## TangTester

Hey Midget,


For the front kingpins and the diff I use BRP's diff lube, for the bushing in the rear axle and the motor I use BRP's Black gold? its a graphite and oil mix that Bud has.

Just make sure the kingpins are nice and free, if they are not before lube, you may have problems.....check early posts for tips on kingpins


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## BudBartos

Don't forget the BRP stock class here is a motor claim class !!! So $20.00 can get any motor that You think is fast  This is only for BRP points races.


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## DLM2005

Do you S18v2 racer's use threaded turnbuckles to adjust toe-in/toe-out or do you just bend the stock ones. Also are you using the "super wing" and is anybody running any caster/camber?


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## BudBartos

We are coming out with a tie rod turnbuckle set. Bend the bottom is fine You want just a slight amount of toe out. Run the top one at as shallow of a angle as You can to get rid of bump steer. We run no extra caster and no chamber. The front blocks are trailing blocks so they give You some caster. The super wing is great if Your on a track with med bite, the track we run on has way too much bite so most do not use it. Also if your on a smaller track it will help.

Correct Tang????


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## DLM2005

Cool, Thanks for the info. I re-adjusted the ackerman as you suggested (using the kit steering blocks). The car runs great - I enjoy running it as much as 12th or Touring. I did replace the bushing in the diff with a bearing (same size as the TC3/4 diff bearing and it does make for a smooth diff.


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## ShortyRacing13

DLM2005, If you dont have an extra Tc3/4 bearing, i found out that a Dynamite 5mm x 8mm bearing will work. It makes the car super smooth. I got the bearing for $2.95.

Also Bud, my name is Matt and last week i bought the Brp sc18 v2 off of you. I was wondering if i really needed a servo saver for a Spektrum Z590M (same as Jr Z590M just in a grey case). Would it be a good idea or will I be ok? 

Can't wait for next week!

Thanks a bunch,
Matt


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## TangTester

hey Matt,

Servo saver is a must unless you like buying servos.....it any RC car the steering servo will take a beating. 
Tang


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## BudBartos

Yes run the servo saved. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## ghoulardi

and don't forget your hple hole!!


Indeed!!!!


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - now that the chassis is working well, motor is free and fast, what about tires? any speed tips?


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## BudBartos

Tang hates Oval again :freak: Green dot rears and orange fronts :thumbsup: 

The biggest thing on that oval is the 4/2 batt layout.


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## Micro_Racer

OK- I ran the orange fronts, but the green rear did not work for me. I was using blue rear - I was much faster -- they were not wide --


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## BudBartos

Tang ???????????????????


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## TangTester

Who knows.....who cares.......Micro should know he beat me.............I hate driving slow on an oval.


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## Micro_Racer

I accredit all my speed to reading Tang's Tips. He spells out exactly what you need to do to be fast. So Tang I do care! Please give us some tips on tire selections.


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## TangTester

Well since you care.

Tires for carpet racing I like the orange and green tires....I have been stay with that combo and working more with the chassis. What I like to do is to rotate the front tires every run, and the rears aleast once a race.

One thing to watch is tire wear. These cars dont have any ride height adjustment, so its all controlled by the tire diameter. Too small and the car drags. So the fronts wear out more then the rears so you have to watch this. So if your car starts wierd check the ride height. 
I also try to replace the fronts and rears at the same time. Sometimes if you replace the fronts the old rear tires will have grip build up, and the new fronts will have less grip and your car may push and mess up the balance.

well more tips later
tang


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - how about some tips on 2/3A cells. How to charge, dis-charge, get the most out of them.


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## BudBartos

How about it Tang!!!! You were fast at Classic last time what did You do???


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## Bill Weaver

ouch!!


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## Bill Weaver

OK Tang any tips for running fast at Da Track


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## BudBartos

Yes that is a good one  :tongue: :freak:


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## TangTester

Hey Bill,

Da Track can be a tricky track. At first is looks simple, however when you start going fast the line that you take can be as important as car set up. 1 and to is pretty straight foward line and pretty smooth.....as you come out of 2 you want to stay mid track to more inside. There is a bump on the outside what would can mess you up. Now you will pick up some good speed because of the slight down hill run. Stay towards the middle to the inside going into 3 .....there a bump which will mess you up going in the turn. Come out of 3 into 4 stay towards the inside and drift out as you exit.....setting up for 1. 

Car setup Buds Long Wear fronts and rears. Trinty Red dot tire traction put on right before the run. 

After each run rotate the front tires. About every other run rotate the rears and rebuild the diff. Remember everything will get dirty so cleaning and relubing the front end is important.

Enough for now..
Catch later


P.S. we may have a test and tune day before the first race.


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## Bill Weaver

My car is faster already Thanks Tang


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## Bill Weaver

Hey tang i got some info on center of gravity, roll centers, and weight jacking that pertains to full size oval cars do you think it will transfer to brp cars?
enlighten me o wise one


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## d_man

hey bill wats up goshort bus


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## d_man

hey dave thanks for the tip hopefully when applied correctly i will be a whole lot faster. maybe even run up front with the faster guys :thumbsup:


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## BudBartos

Bill>> Setups are somewhat similar to real cars but these are much faster scale wize then You have to fig in the weight ect. 
Butch Miller former ASA champion once said it was much harder setting up and racing RC vs real cars :thumbsup: Yes most all real car racers ran RC at some time.
Bill>> Have not got the decals worked up yet hope this week.


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## TangTester

Hey Bill,

I have been working with jacking weight in the car via the tweak screws. Bud in the expert in setting up the oval car. 

At freddies I was trying different setups as far as jacking weight I started with weight on the right front and they to the left front. I just wanted to see what the change did to the handling. I know I will be doing the same at the Da track when pratice starts for the season.
Tang


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## Bill Weaver

Bud just let me know when they are done, I also need some parts so I'll pick them up at the same time. Thanks. Oh yeah thanks for the input guys, cant wait for t&t day!


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## BudBartos

Tang >> Put a ton on the left front and sauce all the way and I will get the video camera out :tongue: :drunk: :wave:


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## Micro_Racer

Keep this formula in mind when looking at weight jacking and center of gravity, and keep in mind the force's that work on the car during acceleration threw the corrner.


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## BudBartos

AH Yes Correct !!!!!!!!!!!


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## d_man

tang when you polish front kingpins is there a certain dia. that you need to mantain before you wind up with to much slop in steering blocks. just want to make sure i dont go overboard when polishing them thanks alot for tips and info that will increase speed and decrease lap times. thanks alot dennis :dude:


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## BudBartos

Just polish them slightly!!!! I use 1500 grit paper and no polishing compound. Make sure You bur the edges on the steering blocks for the king pin holes.
Correct Tang???


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## Micro_Racer

Also, when polishing check the diameter in several different locations. Make sure it is the same up and down the king pin.


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## TangTester

Thats right Bud, 1500 and even 2000 grit paper works well......I like to use some WD 40 and kept the paper wet. Also watch the steerring blocks, if running outside or a really dirty track, I would replace then about 4 to 6 race days. They do wear and will feel free, but will bind up in a side load from the corners.

Tang


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## BudBartos

I have run the same king pins and steering blocks since I built the car which was the first V2 proto so it is a year and a half old. BRP silicone lube for the dampening lube.


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## TangTester

But Bud you dont hit anything


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## BudBartos

That must be the secret


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## d_man

hey tang was thinking in regards to top pod plate would i gain any rear damping if i where to deburr outer edge of plate and also hole both top and bottom. and would it also help if i where to ream hole in top damping plate would appreciate any knowledge you have on topic. thanks alot dennis & nicole :devil: :devil:


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## BudBartos

Make that hole alittle larger and for sure smooth out the edges. I tryed teflon tape but did not like it. The 100 weight shock fluid helps.


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - any tips on mounting the servo? We had a few racers were the double sided tap was just not enough!


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## BudBartos

Hi tech servos and double back tape is a no go. Make mounts or shoe goo.
What do You think Tang ??


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## legendno6

I'm putting new mounts on the Hitec to replace the ones I cut off and putting that servo to a task it is better suited....shifting the reverse module on a Savage. :thumbsup:

That opens a need for a new steering servo on the BRP. Recommendations? Need a good steering servo + servo saver. Heard positive comments about JR and Futaba at the track. I'm not going to skimp, but I don't want the servo to cost the same as the car either!


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## Micro_Racer

I use the fataba s9602 in my road SC-18- best servo ever! I think Bud uses the same one. For my outdoor oval car I am using the Fatuba s3101....worked well last Sat.


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## TangTester

Hey guys,

Sevro will make or break a race car. I have had really good luck with the Futaba S9602. Kimbrough servo savers are the best, and you need to replace them aleast once a year.

Mounting the servo I allways use shoe goo.....Kmart has it in the sporting goods dept. Leave aleast a day drying time.....and best 2 to 3 days before the race. 

Later
Tang


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## BudBartos

Yes!!!! Goop is the same as shoe goo if You can't find it.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Looking back at all the posts - we have covered allot! All we need now is a set-up sheet!


----------



## legendno6

Tang and Micro-I have a S9602 on the way and I have a new Kimbrough servo saver for Futaba laying around. Now, I guess I don't have any more excuses 

I can start working on a set-up sheet if you like. I know most of the options, but certainly not even close to all of them. If you want to start forwarding some my way, I can start getting it together.


----------



## Micro_Racer

a one page set-up sheet would be great...lets start to put one together. I also think we should grab all the tips in this thread, and create a SC-18 V2 guide...


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Sounds like a good idea, I think everybody would vote to put you in charge. Do a good job. Thank you in advance.


----------



## ghoulardi

*Indeed..*



Donald Deutsch said:


> Sounds like a good idea, I think everybody would vote to put you in charge. Do a good job. Thank you in advance.


 Don's right. No hack stuff. OK? :jest:


----------



## Bill Weaver

yeah ditto


----------



## legendno6

Here's a quick setup sheet. What all did I miss?

[I have removed the old setup sheet, the new one is in message #112]


----------



## BudBartos

I like it !!!!! Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## Robertw321

I would add spacers on the front and rear axles.


----------



## Micro_Racer

legendno6 said:


> Here's a quick setup sheet. What all did I miss?


This is awesome!!!! Great JOB! I am going to print and use at the next race....


----------



## legendno6

I thought about adding spacers...I'll put those in v1.1, shrink some of the fonts, and give more room to write stuff on the sheet.


----------



## Micro_Racer

how about adding a line for tire diameter, and for the front add a line for spring spacers - and maybe a check mark for progressive and non-progressive springs. I agree with you on adding a little more space to write.....

Bud you should post this on your web site!


----------



## legendno6

OK, here is v1.2. Thanks for the feedback. Keep it coming...

Added:
Front Spacers
Tire Diameter
Progressive Springs
Total Weight
Date and version in lower right (so you know you have the latest version)

Changed:
More space to write

Corrected:
Some spelling errors
Fixed check box for N/A weather
Text Alignment

[Latest update in message #118]


----------



## ghoulardi

*Cool !*

An awesome job indeed!!!
Tanx
:tongue:


----------



## legendno6

Hello all...3 items:

1) Anyone know the rated RPM of our 16D motors are at 7.2V? I know it depends on the motor as all are different, but what does Parma say it should be? Just curious, I can't find the stats anywhere...

2) I have front and rear ride height on the setup sheet. Did some research, and on a pan-type car, front, rear AND center ride height are important to calculate chassis rake. Want me to add center ride height for v1.3?

3) I know some are mounting the rear of the stock car body higher to get that spoiler in the air. Should I split the body mounting height into front and rear?


----------



## Donald Deutsch

I dynoed 5 stock BRP motors on my Fanton dyno and they averaged out at 13,800 rpm.


----------



## Micro_Racer

legendno6 said:


> Hello all...3 items:
> 
> 1) Anyone know the rated RPM of our 16D motors are at 7.2V? I know it depends on the motor as all are different, but what does Parma say it should be? Just curious, I can't find the stats anywhere...
> 
> 2) I have front and rear ride height on the setup sheet. Did some research, and on a pan-type car, front, rear AND center ride height are important to calculate chassis rake. Want me to add center ride height for v1.3?
> 
> 3) I know some are mounting the rear of the stock car body higher to get that spoiler in the air. Should I split the body mounting height into front and rear?


1- 13,500 - 14,200 is what I have seen
2 - I don't think any of us have caculated chassis rake. 
3 - Sure...sounds good


----------



## legendno6

OK! Im out of town for the weekend, but I'll make changes to the setup sheet early next week!


----------



## legendno6

As promised, here is version 1.3

Added:

Changed:
Split body mount height into front/rear

Corrected:
Some spelling errors


----------



## BudBartos

Thats OK We caant spellal anyhow !!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## ghoulardi

*Set-up sheet*

Don't forget the hple hole size and location. :jest: 



Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Sorry those are not legal !!!!


----------



## ghoulardi

BudBartos said:


> Sorry those are not legal !!!!


 Why not? I hear they make you faster, but not too fast!!!


 :jest: :lol: 


Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Yes how true some of us just don't want to be too fast


----------



## legendno6

Hey, Tang!

Any hints for us newbies on the road course other than change gearing, 3x3 on the batteries, and practice? Else I fear I may be working on the Darlington Stripe's terrible cousin...Da Track Stripe :roll:!


----------



## BudBartos

Slow is fast on the road course :thumbsup:


----------



## TangTester

slow is fast.....3x3 battieries.. 52x9 or 52x10 gearing........you have to drive the in field like you are driving on ice.


----------



## BudBartos

And the stock car bodies will make it more fun !!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Robertw321

BudBartos said:


> And the stock car bodies will make it more fun !!!!!!!!!!!!!


 :roll:


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >>>>>>>>>> Whats the word???


----------



## legendno6

OK, Tang...any hints on springs? Word last week is silver should have worked, but seemed many guys changed out to stiffer springs on the slick track. 

Bud-which colors are which spring rates? 


One lesson I did learn...don't do the donuts until AFTER you go under the timing gate! :jest:


----------



## TangTester

Legend,

the silver springs are the softest then its orange are stock. Then blues are a bit stiffer over the orange

So saturday I started with the silver springs, but with slippery conditions I wanted less bite in the front end. So I went to the orange springs. It really hooked up then, except for one turn on the infield. You just needed to be careful and watch your line and when you got on to the power. Its just a very trick off camber corner.

Tang


----------



## Micro_Racer

Ya - I had a problem in the same corner :lol:


----------



## BudBartos

You have to enter that turn slower since it is way off chamber. Next time go back by the fence out back and look at it You can really see it from there.


----------



## BudBartos

Next Race July 15th!!!!!

OVAL :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :wave:


----------



## BudBartos

Tang any new tips!!!!


----------



## TangTester

Hey Bud,

If anyone sure be giving set up tips, is yourself......your two prepare cars were the class of the field at last race. I would like to know how you are setting them up. Gear ratio, tire selection, front springs, toe out setting, damping. etc. Maybe you could make a set up sheet for the oval. I know I was out to lunch on horsepower last weekend. How are you setting up your motors? 
Tang


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Great questions. will there be answers???


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> It is all stock just little detail things that make a big differance. I will work somthing up.


----------



## TangTester

Hey where the sheet? Bud, we need all the help we can get.....Or you just want Don S to win seeing how Mirco will not be there next race.


----------



## BudBartos

Sorry I have been so busy RC is going gang busters :thumbsup:


----------



## Micro_Racer

I have seen a lot of R/C on the SPEED channel.....Wind Tunnel had a very cool story this week about the 1/8 national buggy race.....Also #20 has been plugging his line of R/C stuff.

that could account for the recent surge in R/C...


----------



## BudBartos

Yes from reports at the gate they had 20 touring cars several weeks ago.

Maybe We will set a attendance record at the next race!!!!!!!!!!
By the way last time I raced Jay Halsey I beat him!!! At the whip that was yes indeed.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Bud - Post your Road and Oval set-up's!


----------



## BudBartos

Box stock !!!!


----------



## Micro_Racer

BudBartos said:


> Box stock !!!!


Box stock -- then why the $30 for you to set-up the car?!?!?!!?!?


----------



## BudBartos

Thats the secret !!! Give Me $30.00 and find out:tongue:


----------



## TangTester

Hey, 

I build a new car out of left over parts for the last race.....I set up pretty much box stock....just one shim on the right front spring.....fastest I have ever gone on Da track with a stock motor
Tang


----------



## ghoulardi

*oval setup*

4 x 2 battery setup?  



Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Oval is 4x2 4 on left of course!!!!

Tang>> Is that a $30.00 tip??


----------



## BudBartos

OK Who is coming I need to buy lots of food???

Bob and Don W are You folks coming out?? It is a road race You know


----------



## Micro_Racer

Tang - summer is almost over -- what tips do you have for carpet racing?


----------



## TangTester

not sure yet for carpet......I want to try my oval car with the 4 x 2 set up.....but I am going to start with box stock., but rebuilt from the outdoor season


----------



## BudBartos

They say the gate is nice and smooth :thumbsup: 

Two more weeks till the last race  
It would be cool if everyone that had a BRP in this area came out to run!!!!
I would need alot of food.


----------



## ghoulardi

I'll try to make it. Depends on how the surgery goes.


----------



## TangTester

tang can you please share your secret for getting you car super smooth and keeping your motors 108 deg and under anything like gearing lubes maint. ect.
I clean and rebuild my car after every race day clean bearings and reoil and the rear end and diff, kingpins everything i can think of and stiil not as cool running as you and buds whats your "tangs tips" for this please....thanks...
Dave


Dave, biggest thing is making sure everything is free in the car no binding of any sort. Make sure after you put a motor in you debind the bushing in the motor. Next, is picking the correct grear ratio as to not bog out the motor. Also getting the right set up so the car will be just alittle free, but wont spin out. You want to keep the car from binding up in the turns.

Last thing, and the hardest is to not hit anything, when you are stoping and starting it can build heat in the motor. You can thing of it this way, your real car runs cooler running down the highway at 70mph or in downtown traffic?
Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang- Have you ever raced against Gene Lasker or Bubba Klem? Those guys know the difference between a well set-up JONES and a well set-up DEAL!!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Dear Mr Tang, after carefully reading your oooooohhhh so interesting tech tips I got together with my racing crew made up of High pitch, Wendy Gary and Elephant boy, we decided that altough your tips were very helpful we are going to the Knoxville Nationals with the more valuable information that we obtained from Raftster and Jeff the Drunk. Thank you anyway. P.S. Blue Iris says hello. Signed K-5


----------



## ScottH

Is it just me or does K-5 seem not to like Tang very much?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

No sir you have that wrong after racing with and having the priviledge of speaking to this speed legend for the past 19 decades I have the utmost respect for this R/C ICON.


----------



## ScottH

So, you have been talking with someone for 190 YEARS??? Dude you are O-L-D!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

To make matters worse thats 190 years of dealing with the likes of professor Tang!


----------



## BudBartos

K-5 must Know Tang


----------



## TangTester

we all know K-5 look like he just got a computer


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Hey- whats up Tangster after speaking to my friend elegant Elliot I ran your tech tip by him and his response was RIGHT,RIGHT-so i am going with your ideas!!!


----------



## TangTester

Hey Guys,

Freddie set up,

This is what I was running at freddie's

Front springs : orange
Front tires: Orange dot
Rear tires: Green dot

Gearing 10/52 with a 1.396 rear tire dia.

Dodge Body

MAKE SURE THE FRONT END is not bound up....I saw about 4 cars with front ends messed up! Polish the kingpins, use silcone (lots). The front has to work right for the car to work right. 

Driving......Have very little steering throw in the car....I could barly do a u turn in the straight away, Drive a line which lets the car "float" off the turn.....K-5 was driving too tight, where he was binding the car in the turn. The car should want to drive out to the line on the track.....You get all of your straightaway speed in the turns, so the more input ( turning ) you do the less speed you have in the straightway. Just remember, turning binds the car because it wants to go straight, so turning less, will put less heat in the motor and give you more speed.

More to come
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

WOW !! Thats a good tip SLOW is fast


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Hey Guys, I need some help-what to use and where to find stuff to polish my kingpins.In the past I used Flitz on my 12th scale rig but do not remember where I found the stuff. I also need to find a slot car shop where I can obtain 10,11,and 12 tooth pinion gears.The K-5 motorsports racing compound is housed in North Royalton,if any of you can guide me to the closest slot car joint where I can find these gears it would be way appreciated because if I have to run classic with a 9 tooth I will be really hating the ovals!!!!!! THANKS K-5


----------



## TangTester

K-5

I go to an auto parts store which has auto body repair stuff, they will have 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sand paper. I like to use alittle wd-40 on the paper and chuck the kingpin in a drill and polish away. Also make sure there are no burrs in the steering blocks.
tang


----------



## TangTester

K-5

When putting the kingpins back in the car, I will don't bottom the nut out on the threads, I will only turn it on far enough to mount the kingpin and the bottom of the kingpin thread to be flush with the bottom of the nut. What you need to do is the top nut, figure out where it has to be, then glue the nut in place. There maybe some threads showing on the steering block side. Make sure that the distance between the e-clip slot and the bottom of the nut is the same on both kingpins. Then place it on the crossbar, tighten and then glue the bottom nut in place. 

When you put the steering block back on, you may have to countersink the bottom of the steering block to clear any threads on the kingpin.

What this does for you, it unloads and preload on the front springs, so now you car is just sitting on the front springs. This will help smooth the car out, and give you more steering. 
Tang


----------



## Micro_Racer

I have found all my slot car stuff on eBay... the Slot Shop in Elyria closed. I think a place called Shifters has slot stuff.


----------



## BudBartos

Now don't forget Classic is a banked track and the set up is slightly different. I run orange front springs and one extra nylon shim under the eclip on the right side. 

I have also filed the bottom of the front plate where the nut goes making it thinner so the king pin can be set as Tang describes. This gives more travel and You can have slightly softer settings with the springs not being compressed right of the bat.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Thanks guys!!!


----------



## trashedmaxx

Had our firdt race with BRP's at oakhill rc speedway this past saturday. Seven brp's on the first outing with about 3-4 more that didn't show. I'm not really an oval guy guy but man those little cars are fun. All the tips I got from you guys at the Gate put me way ahead of everyone else but it won't be long before they catch on to some of the secrets.

I do have some questions about traction compound. The car did not work with out compound so I put some on the rear tires then it pushed so I put about 1/8th strip on inside of the right tire. So my question is have you guys experimented with not saucing the rears full? To free the car up alittle. What are some of the aproaches you have tried?

Here is a pic of the cars that where there opening night.


----------



## BudBartos

Yes You can tune how much sauce You use. Like at the gate the bite will come up as the day goes on so I may start full for first run then be down to maybe 1/4 of the inside edges by the main. It goes the same with the fronts but I use very little to start and end up with none by end of day. If Your running on a track that has alot of tire stuff in it You will want to feel the tires if they get sticky clean them off good with lighter fluid.

Glad You guys had a good time !!! I know We do here :thumbsup:


----------



## BudBartos

I like that green car second from the back !!! Looks like mine.


----------



## trashedmaxx

I will try out your suggestions on the tire sauce. Here is another pic the red dodge is mine.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

The black Jack Daniels car is cool I would probably lose the yellow for a while for that.Can you get those decals Bud???


----------



## -DC-

what is the chassis that yall are using for the bigger wedge cars in the pics above?


----------



## BudBartos

They run Mini T's with the bigger body by Mcallister.


----------



## DAVON

K-5 CAPER said:


> The black Jack Daniels car is cool I would probably lose the yellow for a while for that.Can you get those decals Bud???


 K-5,I FOUND THE 07 JACK DANIELS DECALS AT SCALEDECALS.COM......THEY'RE 1/24 SCALE......DAVE


----------



## BudBartos

Tang>> Any words of wisdom this week?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang,what were your car issues at the gate Friday?? Were you full hot or just on the chip?


----------



## kmberie

BudBartos said:


> Now don't forget Classic is a banked track and the set up is slightly different. I run orange front springs and one extra nylon shim under the eclip on the right side.
> 
> I have also filed the bottom of the front plate where the nut goes making it thinner so the king pin can be set as Tang describes. This gives more travel and You can have slightly softer settings with the springs not being compressed right of the bat.



I have seen these "orange front springs" being refered to in many posts from you and Tang, do you sell these springs or are you using something from the 10th scale realm?

Thanks
Kevin


----------



## ScottH

Those were the springs that came in some of the older kits. Those springs cam hard to come by due to the mfr. not being able to supply them and Bud went to the same spring used on the rear damper discs.

To answer your other question, they did come from the 10th scale world. They were Wolfe Motorsports springs.


----------



## TangTester

I think Bud still has them

The older kits had progessive front springs in them.....I like the non-progessive springs, it easier to detect a spring problem.

K-5 , After looking over the car, I discover that I had a crack in the body at the wheel well. I put new tires on the car, and the different in diameter and the body problem cause the front tire to rub. This would cause the car to almost spin out in high load corners. Very hard to drive. I have a black body so it wasn't easy to see the marks the tire left. Just one of those things. It will not happen again.

Later
Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

The crack in the body at the wheel well probably came from racing with the likes of me,or perhaps you let Gene Lasker take a few laps around the track with your car!!!See you Saturday.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

That body rub thing-Thats why I run my body 2 foot off the chassis!!!!!!!


----------



## BudBartos

The orange springs were none progressive and sold by Wolfe who is out of buisness. Try Murdock racing they may have them. The orange were just slightly stiffer than the silver We us now.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Do you like the silver better than the orange Bud??


----------



## BudBartos

On the road course silver is better and Freddies flat oval. On classic I run the orange with one of the nylon shims under the right front e clip on king pin to make it just slightly stiffer. This will prevent the front end colapsing in the bank.


----------



## TheGIMP

Tang - thanks for all the GREAT tips! I run on a flat oval with the following set up:
Orange front left - orange progressive spring
Green front right - orange non progressive spring
purple rear - full red dot

4x2 cell configuration

coming out of the corner my car dives towards the inside. Any idea's?


----------



## BudBartos

What surface ar You running on ?? Red dot is for pavment.


----------



## ScottH

The Red Dot tire compound will also change the tire as you apply it. Take a tire you have applied it to and compare it to a new tire of the same compound. Once you put on the Red Dot, that tire is changed forever. WD-40, Paragon or SPF40 does not do this.

You might try swapping those two front tires around. You are running a very hard compund tire on the inside and a soft tire on the outside. When you come through the turn and the weight is transferred to the outside tire, it is so soft it could cause some very crazy things.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang do you have battery charging tips?? Whats the DEAL {not "HERES THE DEAL"}with the motor freezing thing??Thanks K------5


----------



## BudBartos

Yes Tang You were pretty fast whats the DEAL???


----------



## TangTester

TheGIMP said:


> Tang - thanks for all the GREAT tips! I run on a flat oval with the following set up:
> Orange front left - orange progressive spring
> Green front right - orange non progressive spring
> purple rear - full red dot
> 
> 4x2 cell configuration
> 
> coming out of the corner my car dives towards the inside. Any idea's?


I would begin by changing the inside front spring to a non progressive spring, After coming out of the corner the car will reload the left front, the progressive spring with be softer at the start of its travel. The unequalness of the front spring could make the car dive to the inside.

Also I would go with a high bite orange dot on the front over the to different compounds, The green dot will be too soft. 

If the car pushes, I would the go to the silver front springs.

Try those and see what happens
Tang


----------



## TheGIMP

Thanks Tang, I will try moving the tires and changing springs.

Bud you guys use Red Dot on your tires???


----------



## TangTester

we only use red dot on asphalt tracks, Niftect on the carpet tracks. Alot of the time on the carpet tracks we will not even apply it to the front tires
Tang


----------



## rc10t4oval

you BRP guys rock....im going too have to get one


----------



## Micro_Racer

rc10t4oval - great to see another racer join the group! Are you in the Ohio area?


----------



## rc10t4oval

coldwater, michigan i race at jims stateline in angola indiana and ive practiced at daves schoolyard speedway


----------



## Micro_Racer

Another good tip:

Make sure the bearings in the front tires are smooth. To do this, let them sit over night in lighter fluid. This will remove the grease and dirt. Spray them out with motor cleaner, and oil them with BRP oil. I also place an aluminum shim on the axle between the steering block and tire and between the bearing and nut. This will ensure that the tire spins freely. Also do not over tighten the nut. 

Also on a few cars I have noticed that the rear axle is not "free". A lot of people are using the washers and blue bearing on the right side of the axle. If you do this it is very important that the axle can spin freely. If you tighten the washers and bearing so tight that it has a problem spinning. 

Making sure you don't have drag in the front and rear of the car will help make your car faster!


----------



## BudBartos

So that is why You were sooo fast at the last race!!!!

Lot's of good tips here.
Tang>> What do You say ???


----------



## trashedmaxx

I remember when I got my car from bud. He had the bearing on the rear hub of his car is there any advantage on the oval due to using the bearing? I would think there would be a little less side friction using that setup. I have my rear axle as free as I can get by polishing the bushings,axle and running teflon shims between the bushings and the spacers.


----------



## BudBartos

The thrust bearing does help on the oval. But I no longer have any. On our old track we had to use the collar to keep the rear axle from binding if We slapped the ouside wall. For some reason the PVC pipe tended to push the wheel even if You had flat spots on the axle. I still like the collar as a spacer since You can lock it down them You don't have to tighten the rear wheel as tight and can get it to run nice and true and not worry about it sliding and binding the rear end.


----------



## trashedmaxx

Few more questions. What size do the tires start out at(dia)? How many runs do you guys put on the brushes before swapping them out?


----------



## BudBartos

Rears are cut to aprox 1.400 fronts 1.375. I just run the motor till it is too slow and put a new one in.


----------



## TangTester

Hey tip for this week,

Put the transponder in the car, you will count better. In the rack or your pocket not so good

Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang>>>>> what sort of an idiot would possibly try to run a race without a transponder in his rig??? Is that a transponder in your pocket??NO,just glad to see you,thanks for asking!!!!!!!By the way mailman boy should be brining my personal mcgillicutty any day now and you know that bitc# is going to get super glued into my v2 jones!!!!!!!!!! Excellent tip though,keep up the good work Tangster.See you Sunday


----------



## K-5 CAPER

What is CA glue you were describing on the other thread??How do I get to use super glue or anything like it more than once without the cap getting welded on after the first use??Got my personal transponder yesterday,no did not put in my pocket!!!!!!I can not mount it on top of my servo-is it ok to put on chassis between rec. and speedo?????


----------



## TangTester

K-5, 

Watch mounting the transponer on or near the receiver, it may cause glitting. If you stand your receiver on its side, there should be enough room for it all. Best way to mount it is shoe goo....this works well for everything on the car. You need to give aleast one day for the goo to dry, two days before the race would be better. 

I have had good lucky with Loctite's super glue, it is in a red bottle and doesn't clog, you press on the side and it will then flow. Or I will even use the CA in the bottle with the brush work well.
Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

I was going to lay down my xxl far to the left side have a gap up and right from there and put the gtx,directly acrossed from xxl on right side-I run 3x3 batteries so the electronics would sit a little further back than transponder.What do you think? Thanks KKKKKKKKKKK----------------5555555555


----------



## TangTester

Well,

Try it if you get radio hit just move it around then


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> any tips on how to beat you at Freddies????


----------



## ghoulardi

*beatin tang?*

just go faster!!! :tongue: 


indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

But not too fast :thumbsup:


----------



## ghoulardi

*Faster ???*



BudBartos said:


> But not too fast :thumbsup:


 

INDEED !!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang can I run 2 positive wires off gtx speed control one to motor one to positive battery conection??? Whats with the 4 foot wire from speedo to receiver who the hell needs that much??Thanks KKKKKKKKKKk-5


----------



## TangTester

K-5,

I have two positive wires coming off the speed control but you can run one off the positive led of the speed control and "Y" off to the battery and motor
tang


----------



## trashedmaxx

My gtx came with a short and long esc to receiver wire. one is about 3" and the other is about 8"

What tire compounds do you guys use at the gate? Gearing?


----------



## losiman2

green rear oarnge fronts and gearing is 9/48 or 10/52 and some run 10/48 i have also ran blue rears just make sure to clean you tires good after every round with liter fluid... :thumbsup: if not you'll roll and i have been informed there are no extra points given for sticking the landing :hat: also we use niftech tire stuff..


----------



## TangTester

Hey guys,

This will be the last time I put this tip on here. PLEASE DIAL YOUR STEERING DOWN. People you have tooooo much dual rate I could bearly turn my card arould on the straightway If there is a problem with steering that is in the set


----------



## K-5 CAPER

:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: Good luck in Vegas Tang-try to leave the town with a little bit of $$$$$$$$ so other vacationers can enjoy the city!!!


----------



## BudBartos

Ya All better listen to Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang,do you have any tips on how to remove electronics and re-install after you did the shoo goo thing????Thanks K5 Jones


----------



## Micro_Racer

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang,do you have any tips on how to remove electronics and re-install after you did the shoo goo thing????Thanks K5 Jones


Use a hair dryer to soften the shoo goo, and then use an exacto to cut off the chassis.


----------



## TangTester

K-5 

I have never had any problems using a screwdriver and just pop them off. Sometime if they have been on for awhile I will trim as much as I can with a knife. Then work around the part and just work it off.
Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Will lighter fluid take off Goo from electronics after it is off the chassis?


----------



## losiman2

i should pull right off like silicone....


----------



## BudBartos

Tang>> You going to the gate tonight?? Perkins baby


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Was Kaitlin working tonight?


----------



## TangTester

yes she was


----------



## mproy

ShooGoo: I pry a corner off and then everything comes right up. Too clean the rest it is best to do it dry, lighter fluid will make it slimy and not a clean cut. But I use it to remove any small residue at the end.

M.P.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Rumor has it that kaitlyn likes the Shoo Goo


----------



## BudBartos

DA !!!


----------



## tcian

bud dave got me hooked does the new chassis come in a kit yet? Can i take a part one of my 18t battery packs and use it in the brp car


----------



## BudBartos

The new chassis will not come in a kit but I can put one in for You. With the M chassis You will need smaller radio gear. You could take one of those packs apart. The racer kits that I have at the track come with one battery pack.


----------



## tcian

cool you could put it in for me thanks i dont have the money yet so when i get it ill give you a call


----------



## tcian

would it still cost the normal price


----------



## BudBartos

That is fine. no addition cost just a swap.


----------



## cepaw

Hey Bud, and all BRP drivers
I'm getting a BRP
I plan on using a spektrum radio
Futaba 59602 servo
what ESC ?
I know I can use full size, but since I have to buy a new one, would a mini be better ?
what would be the best ESC for a BRP
Thanks
Mike


----------



## losiman2

kinda senseless to buy micro electronics i dont think any of us use them .. get a standard esc... i use a quantum comp..


----------



## BudBartos

If your going with the new M chassis You will need a smaller rec'v and speedo I have a JR syn and novak GTX in mine and it fits fine. In the Reg V2 anything will fit. I use a Futaba S9602 servo any 1/12th size works good.
That new Mini spektrum is sweet.


----------



## tcian

ok thanks bud


----------



## tcian

can i use an 18th scale servo?


----------



## BudBartos

Like from a RC18T? If so I would not. Whatever You use make sure You have a servo saver on it. If You use a Hitech You must shoe goo it in or use mounting posts as the servo tape does not stick to them well.


----------



## cepaw

The Futaba s9602 is listed as a high speed mini air, is this the right one ?


----------



## BudBartos

That is it fast, metal gear and it centers nice.


----------



## cepaw

Thanks Bud
I picked up the spektrum 3500 today, now thats tiny


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang have you had a chance to go over the new V2M blueprints and give us any advice???


----------



## TangTester

nope not yet. I was going to build one after freddies race next weekend. My car is set up of oval, and by the last race performance I did not want to change anything. But I will build one for road and maybe for classic.
Tang


----------



## TheNewGuy

hey i keep adjusting the trim on my 18t and it will go back to a lopsided steering short after?....what else can i adjust?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang what is the spring,tire,gear set up for Classic


----------



## TangTester

K-5 

I have no clue LOL ask Bud. My record is not the greatest at classic


----------



## ML23

what is best tires to use at fredies


----------



## haught123

Tang,

My buddy has a carbon fiber oval chassis that bud doesnt sell anymore and it keeps flipping on the corners on the local oval. Its carpet with no banks. The car goes into a slight spin and immediatly flips. Its not even a spin really. It seems like its just getting at a different angle for the corner if that makes any sence. We've tryed just about everything with the spring set ups. Also on the straights when you give it gas it wants to turn off to the left. That probably has somthing to do with it but we cant figure it out. He has a big block in it by the way in case that changes anything. 

Thanks 
Ryan


----------



## TangTester

Ryan,

First if it has the shock on it, remove it. Use 100 weight shock oil on the disks. Check the wheel base on each side.. sometimes you will need to open the holes on the tbar to get the alignment

For the front tires use BRP's double orange or orange tires, The rears use greens. Make sure the front spindles are nice and smooth and use the orange springs. Make sure the t-bar is free and there is no bind in the movement of the pod. Make sure if you push on the damper post the chassis will bottom out. Also make sure the the damper post is nice and tight.

Make sure to clean your tires with lighter fluid after each run. Dont use pargon tire traction. I use Niftect. Try only apply tire traction to the rear tires.

Last, turn down the steering. With the BRP car you dont need much steering on an oval.

Is everyone running big blocks? I never did like running the graphite car with a big block. The V2 will handle the power better. Also make sure you have the diff slip or you will get wheel hop. 2 to 3 foot slip should be good.

I hope that will give you a place to start.

tang


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## haught123

Thanks. After i posted the last message i read on another thread abou taking off the shock. Everyone is running somthing big/similair to a big block but the have made there own chassis from carbon fiber. I think your right aboutt the problem being with the t-bar and pod. When he puts 3 cells on each side on the chassis it handles like a dream on the Road Coarse. 

Have you ever seen anyone put dual tires on the back of a brp. I did that with mine and it handles really good on tracks with not so much grip and bigger size ovals but its illegal obviously because it sticks way out. I used a 1/8" rod for the axle and just cut it longer. I made a lexan chassis that comes out to protect the axle from bending. J/W if you have ever herd of that before because its pretty cool.

Ryan


----------



## BudBartos

6 cell all on left is too much. The Pro was not that great but still was killer in it's day. The new mid motor chassis is way better! We only sell just the chassis and it will only work on the V2.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Tang - what maintenance do you do to your car after a few race nights? What should be changed on a regular basis?


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## TangTester

Micro,

What I will do before the next race is to disassembly and clean the front end. When I reassembly I will use BRP diff lube on the kingpins and put the spring and spacer set up for the next race. I have to this season, I am running the same car for all of the races. 

I will then disassembly most of the rear end and clean and reassebly using 100 wt shock oil. Thats about it for the car.

The motor every few races I may replace the brushes if the motor is pretty good. If it has been a few weeks since the last race I may cycle the batteries. 
Thats about it. Just clean and inspect the car for any problems.
Tang


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## BudBartos

So those are Tangs secrets


----------



## RCRacer00

which BRP Chassis would be best for flat oval track?


----------



## TangTester

how big is the oval?


----------



## RCRacer00

will be in my basement, but i'll also be running at local track. that is banked carpet w 184' runline. basement track will probally be 10'x15' to guess.


----------



## wazzer

Anyone tried the new V2-M on an oval? Will the 3-3 battery configuration offset any advantage of the mid motor placement?


----------



## BudBartos

Wazzer not yet. I think on flat oval it will be better.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang you have pm jones


----------



## tcian

yyea i used the v2 m on banked oval and i was really good FAST


----------



## Micro_Racer

wazzer said:


> Anyone tried the new V2-M on an oval? Will the 3-3 battery configuration offset any advantage of the mid motor placement?


I don't see any advantage to the 4-2 configuration. I used the 4-2 at Da Track this past summer, just because we could not use personal transponders. The 4-2 made it possible to put the club transponder on the chassis instead of the body. I think that is what made the difference. I tested the 3-3 with out the big honkin club transponder, and the car was just as fast and smooth through the corners. I used the 3-3 at Freddie's (flat oval) and at Classics (banked oval)...and I truly do not see any difference. 

What makes the difference is to make sure the car's tweak is set right for each type of track. And you run the right spring and tire combination for your driving style.

One thing that struck me at Classics's was - Don, Wayne, Tang, Bud and I all had different set-ups. But we all had very close average lap times. The kicker is I could not drive any of their cars, and I am sure if they drove mine they would say it was a pile!

The true key to going fast is understanding your driving style and adjusting your car to it....Not using the fast guys set up, and adjusting _your _driving style!


----------



## losiman2

very well put micro i use to try an copy the pro stock guys setup and i can to the same conclusion i have to adjust to me not to there cars i have found a little more sucess that way. That being said it is also very very important to do the tips and tricks the fast guys like tang,bud,don,and micro say to do because those really have nothing to do with setup just the smoothness of the car which is one of the most important thing in our little rockets...keep up the tips guys my car gets smoother all the time.. :thumbsup:


----------



## Micro_Racer

another helpful tip when racing road - take the top motor pod plate and ream out the hole as much as possible. This will allow the rear to have a full range of motion. Also be sure the post is tight, and not flopping around.


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## BudBartos

I would not ream out as much as possible. It is possible to make it too large and reduce the area you have for proper dampening. Make sure it is smooth I wet sand mine with 1000 grit paper. 100 weight shock oil is the best for dampening the rear.


----------



## ghoulardi

BudBartos said:


> I would not ream out as much as possible. It is possible to make it too large and reduce the area you have for proper dampening. Make sure it is smooth I wet sand mine with 1000 grit paper. 100 weight shock oil is the best for dampening the rear.


 SO THERE !!!:dude: 


 Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Bigron







vbmenu_register("postmenu_1815592", true); 
Member
My Gallery
Trader Rating: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 55 


Hey guys just purchased brp please give advice on inexpensive servo,and esc the smaller the better the radio im using is JR thanks.




I have a Novak GTX speed control, A JR 310 receiver on it's side, personal transponder on it's side and a Airtronics 94145 servo. If You use a Hi tech servo makes sure it is shoe good in or use a mount post of some kind.
All that fit in my Mid motor SC18 with 6 cell


----------



## losiman2

i use a quantum compition esc and a spektrum reciever and those should fit the mid chassis ok to i havent built mine yet ill let ya know.. And yes shoe goo the crap out of your servo i learned the hard way huh bud...


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang you have PM jones!!


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## K-5 CAPER

Disregard last transmission Tang,found it servo shananigans and bad switch jones,seems like the caper started at Classic,started with car not running in heat #3,then transponder kicking out in the main,followed by glitches two weeks in a row at the gate.Going to need nerf bars and a concrete front bumper next trip to classic!!Don't forget the shoot-out at Daytona tommorow night,also ARCA race I think at 4pm.


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## BudBartos

Is this all top secret code???


----------



## ghoulardi

If they tell you they gotta kill you !! :dude: 



Indeed...


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Yes Bud,you guessed it Tang and I have been working on a covert operation based out of Tampa Florida,the ringmaster of this particular caper goes by the name of Bubba the love sponge.........This information is strictly classified,please keep it to yourself.


----------



## TangTester

If you dont keep it quiet you might be put on liquid ass notice!


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## K-5 CAPER

Sorry Tang I'm going k5 on the deal>>>>Don't break out the shock collar Mcgillicutty on ME-self!!!!


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## losiman2

just when i thought it was safe to read tangs tips i surf into this conversation.. WOW!!!


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## K-5 CAPER

Just walk away slowly Losiman,and nobody will get hurt


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> That secret thing You ordered did not come in yet !!! I clled them and they think it went to the wrong address again.


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## losiman2

see what happens when you plot world domination like that


----------



## tcian

losiman2 clean out ur pm box


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## TangTester

Nice, it is a wonder anything gets out. 

For those wonder that sercet thing has nothing to do with cars. 


>>> the last race at freddies, there has been some wondering about motor setup, and why the pro stock guys are 4 to 5 laps faster.

Well here the deal on my car. 

A) gear mesh, I don't know if anyone noticed but my car made very little noise. I use STEEL pinions and tighten the motor screws as even as I can, the less noise, the less bind and waste of power. 

PS more to come


----------



## Micro_Racer

Yes - make sure the gear mesh is nice and free....Ohh and to be as quiet as Tang's you need some funky side winder gear!


----------



## TangTester

Here some more.

When looking at BRP racing or any stock type racing where the motor and batteries are limited you have to think that their is only so much you can get out of each. So let say that every motor and batteries are the same. This would be the maxmium speed and acceleration of the car, which will get you the fastest lap time.

So what counteracted this is what we are looking to do to the car.


Gear mesh, we discuss early

Car set up:

Maxmium cornering speed, without going over the edge: Last sunday this is what my car had going for it. I could beat anyone through the corner which would give me more speed down the straight ( Plus) I went over that edge, if anyone saw my car in the main was fast but would traction roll in the corner( minus) 

So how do you apply this, well it will take experience and trial and error. What I will do, it find a base line that is driveable. Then expeirment from there. Knowing I can go back to the early set up. Also to try big changes, the biggest I may do is change all four tires. To big of a change can get you into to much trouble. 

Gearing: this will also determine aceleration, and speed. What I will do is start by asking around. What are you running?? Ask more then one person. This should give you an average start. Now this is where alot of people get in to trouble. Try the average gearing see how does the car compare to others. Are they beating out of the corners, are they beating down the straightways.......Now each of these can go back to the previous point..... So if you think its the gearing and not the car. The car can let you know if you are over geared ( too small spur or too big pinion) Motor temperture! If you over stress the motor, being over geared, it will be really hot 160+ degrees. Once you get them over 200 they are not long on life. The magnets will get weaker, and it will slow down. 


More later
tang


----------



## losiman2

great stuff tang keep em comming by the way you've been using that motor cooler for a while have you seen any change in motor performance ? thanks agian for all the tangs tips..


----------



## TangTester

I will get to the motor cooler later? I think there are some gains, but nothing to great. more later


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## TangTester

What else would take power away? FRICTION!

Front wheels, are the ball bearing clean......soaking in lighter fluid workes great for cleaning them.....let the soak then work them and the re soak untill the bearing seems clean and rotates fine. If they dont free up.....time for some new bearings. After the soak just put them in the car.....the lighter fluid has oil in it that works fine. Tight the nut just tight enough that the bearing has no slop, then back off a bit untill the wheel rotates free and has a small bit of slot.....less then a 1mm. 

The rear bushing are the other friction point. This is where newbie will get in to trouble. 
More to come


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## BudBartos

WOW Tang >>> You know Your stuff !!


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## TangTester

Rear bushing, they should be replace when there is too much slop in them because the slop will cause bad gear mesh. Also check the rear pod......if the plates get bent this will cause a bind on the axle....FRICTION.... What I like to do is loosen the pod screws.. place the axle in and make it is free then tighten the screws evenly making sure the axle is free.


----------



## losiman2

great stuff tang keep it comming you could make a book ya know how to be a brp pro... i want the first copy.... :thumbsup:


----------



## losiman2

ok guys i have a question i just built the midi before freddies and i had one strange prob with it and mabey you guys can help me out here i doped the tires like norm full rears and left front and i had green rears and hb ornge fronts and when i punched it the car shot to the wall i adjusted the dope to 1/2 rear and full left front and it controlled it better and i wiped the tires before putting it on the track and that helped but i have never had that prob before.. any ideas i have a slight tweak to the left side and 3x3 batts shim under rf spring. i still cant figure what was wrong.. so i digress to the masters.


----------



## BudBartos

Check to make sure one of the diff drive rings did not come unglued.

If one is slipping it will pull like that.


----------



## losiman2

ok thanks bud...i'll check it.


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Any new tips??


----------



## BudBartos

Maybe this should change to tips by Micro racer


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Come on Bud,show the Tangster a little love huh!!??!


----------



## ghoulardi

A changing of the guard perhaps ?


----------



## tcian

any new tips tang


----------



## TangTester

Yep! when marshing for tcian make sure you are wearing a cup!.

I do know I hate road rails! I know who ever invent that piece of heaven was not a racer!!!! I am still having the shakes.!


----------



## tcian

so do i am higher? ROFL


----------



## losiman2

that was awsome there's only one thing that could have made it funnier that would have been pat being about 2 inches shorter .... and DOOOOOHHH :freak: 
i would of fell over laughing...


----------



## K-5 CAPER

A BRP in the Mcgillicutty DEAK jones,not a good DEAL,thats what happened to Gene Lasker.Rather spend 1 hour on the torture rack>>>>>good one Tang!!!!!!!!


----------



## ghoulardi

A definite legend in the making ! :lol: 


Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Tang any tips for Freddies oval??? Since You were the king there in the winter.


----------



## TangTester

Building a new car for the summer series. Will see what happens, its going to be like the COT like NASCAR. For Pro Stock, New motors, New battery rules, and wedge bodies. I think my setups for the old car will not apply to the mid motor car. So I think the first couple of races will be a learning experience. I am really looking foward to it.
tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang,how is the mid motor build coming along??Any new tips?


----------



## BudBartos

Yes was it hard to open the bag ?? Or is it not that far yet?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang is it best to open the bag from left to right,or the other way??


----------



## martian 710

I just opened mine from the bottom. I've been looking for pieces for the last 20 minutes. I knew I should have got rid of this darn shag carpet about 20 years ago. :freak: :drunk: :tongue:


----------



## TangTester

I have sanded and glued the chassis, I should have it done for the 13th. 

Bud I am going to need a set of pod plate, an axle set up and a truck body.

Tang


----------



## BudBartos

13th is not that far off!! Think You can do it? Yes You can.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang you have pm jones in your mcgillicutty box!!


----------



## BudBartos

Got it tang !!! I hope to have them by tusday or wed.


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Snowy day You gitin it done???


----------



## TangTester

Put the front end together today. It is amazing how long it takes to build a car for yourself. Every little detail. I hope it is will be worth it. 

Bud: I will also need one of the super truck motors.


----------



## BudBartos

Got it.


----------



## losiman2

i need one of those motors also bud if you could bring it with the plates and damper disks or if you get them in before tues just send the motor with please thanks bud... :thumbsup:


----------



## ghoulardi

Bud, pm


----------



## BudBartos

Got it.

Bud


----------



## TangTester

Super Truck, whats the setup. Hmmmm well for all running a Mid car sorry. I ran old reliable rear motor car. My car for the indoor series, I just put the big block motor plates. 10/45 gearing. Ready for this, I was so happy with my truck, after the quaifier I just charged the battery. No work at all. NICE I think the trucks are going to be lots of fun, No motor worries, no battery worries, and just drive it.


----------



## losiman2

looked pretty good for a rear motor car but then again it was tang driving..


----------



## chicagokenji

*Pushing*

I recently bought a used Supercar V2. I'm running using six cells in saddle position. Rear mounted motor, no ball diff. Has a wee bit of toe-in. Using a GTP body.

I'm trying to get this car to handle neutral on Ozite. We run on a track that's 32x20, 4 foot lanes.

The car is pushing really bad into and out of turns. Where should I start to make changes?

Try some toe-out first?

Then what?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

What tire compound are you running on the front??Should get a diff also!!Did you check to see if chassis tweaked??


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Actually a LITTLE toe-in on a small track like that is probably the way to go,do you put any tire traction compound on the tires?


----------



## BudBartos

chicagokenji said:


> I recently bought a used Supercar V2. I'm running using six cells in saddle position. Rear mounted motor, no ball diff. Has a wee bit of toe-in. Using a GTP body.
> 
> I'm trying to get this car to handle neutral on Ozite. We run on a track that's 32x20, 4 foot lanes.
> 
> The car is pushing really bad into and out of turns. Where should I start to make changes?
> 
> Try some toe-out first?
> 
> Then what?


Get the ball diff it is a must have for carpet !!!!!!


----------



## TangTester

Ball diff is a must. The inside wheel is driving at the same speed as the outside wheel. So with the good traction of carpet, they both drive the the drive. The front tire cant grip enough. So the ball diff is the best bet. 
TANG


----------



## chicagokenji

we're heading to the track now. I have the ball diff just haven't installed it yet. I'll do that today and report back later.


----------



## BudBartos

Tang>> Any tips for the guys fro Freddies??? Other than drive


----------



## TangTester

NOPE will see how I do against a full field of truck before I give away any tips. LOL


----------



## BudBartos

Come ON !!!


----------



## losiman2

thats not right...


----------



## ghoulardi

*???*

On the midi chassis a JR 300 reciever will fit between the batteries on the T-plate with a little trimming. If I mount it there do you see any problems with it affecting the action of the T-plate?


Tanx
Indeed...


----------



## TangTester

There could be problems with the handling, but I see more of a problem with radio hits from the reciever between the batteries.


----------



## BudBartos

Not a good place !!! Put it on it's side just behind the tie rod, crystal up.


----------



## ghoulardi

What crystal?

Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Ok !!


----------



## losiman2

ok tang first race is over now wheres our tips on truck setup ...


----------



## TangTester

I am not sure what tips. I am running a stock car V2 rear motor car with high bite orange front tires, purple rears. Little weight in the on the left front when tweaking the car. Stock front springs and with a washer on the right front spring. BRP unmatched batteries.

The biggest thing is being smooth, I can't say that enough. Speed down the straightway begins when entering the corner. I was rolling in and out of the gas. SMOOTH SMOOTH SMOOTH. If you a steering in the straightway you are slow! 

The deal on the track was my car would drive through the corner perfect giving me a good exit. That speed would show at the end of the straightway. 

Remember this is oval you do not need a lot of steering. My car cant even turn around in a 5 foot circle. I saw one car that turn in half a foot. This mean that person would only need to turn the steering wheel maybe 1/8 of a turn to make the corner. How can you be smooth with that? Maybe that why there was a few people driving a road course on the oval.
Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang,any stagger on the right side tires or just straight up??The super stock truck series (full trucker effect!!)Thanks K5


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang>>in the past you hated the oval jones,are you starting to come around??You have been fast at Freddies Palace of fun on numerous times now!


----------



## TangTester

K5 straight up no stragger. I have liked flat ovals, classic banked oval is my problem. 

I have always run good on flat carpet ovals
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

TangTester said:


> K5 straight up no stragger. I have liked flat ovals, classic banked oval is my problem.
> 
> I have always run good on flat carpet ovals
> Tang


Sure till You loose then all I here is I hate Oval I hate road course  

K-5 caper >> Stagger ??? You lookin at too many sprinters lately  
Thinking of sprinters maybe I'll build another like We ran at Da Track I still have like 15 bodies.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Bud,can you ever look at too many sprint cars?????????By the way Kinser says hello and he actually did call you a legend!


----------



## BudBartos

I told You !!!! I used to kick his butt when I was younger. On the RC track that is


----------



## losiman2

bud bartos rc racing legend ,, fine food critic ,, and creator of the best 1/18 pan car on the market.. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: that pretty much cover it all bud..


----------



## K-5 CAPER

He is also a fine polka dancer,and can knit a beautiful quilt


----------



## losiman2

thats more than anyone needs to know :freak: :freak: :drunk:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Like you never needed a quilt losi>>jones


----------



## BudBartos

I also used to whoop on Tony Stewart. I think at some point in My life I came to a fork in the road Real cars or toy cars? I took toy cars  I think I should have went with the real ones !!!


----------



## losiman2

oh come on bud toys are alot more fun and who needs all that money you get with the real ones it just takes up space in the bank..


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Will we have some tips before the next points race??


----------



## TangTester

BudBartos said:


> Tang >> Will we have some tips before the next points race??


Will see it is a few weeks untill the next race. I am not sure what tips to give. Still working on the pro stock set up and my super truck is my car from the winter series. All the tips for that are on this message board. 

Besides if I give out all of my tips I will not have an edge for the next race.
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

Yes but You have HOW many years exp ???


----------



## TangTester

Less then you..


----------



## K-5 CAPER

The Tangster does have a point there Bud,have either of you two wiley old veterans seen much difference in the handling since going 4 cell big block,compared to 6 cell 16d???Seems like the overall perfomance(total laps in 5 min.) is close to the same no?????


----------



## BudBartos

No the new super stock set up is slightly faster. We don't want these things to go too fast !!! I think the handling is better, they just seem smoother. Also I ran the same battery all night did not even take out of the truck just repeaked it each run. I don't think You can do that with the 16D.
Bud


----------



## TangTester

I feel the cars are ready close on speed now, because of the gear rule. Where the power band for the motor is different. The 16d seem to have the power come at low rpm. The 370 seem to come on at the higher rpm, so keeping the momenting is more important now. Overall I am happier with 370 and 4 cells.
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

I really like them !!!!After running the brushless I see why 1/18th does not take off around the country. THEY ARE TOOOO FAST. And for whatever reason ( the magazines) everyone I talk to has to put the brushless in. Well guess what I bet 99% of them can't drive with all that speed. :drunk: 
But Us BRP racers in Ohio know better that is why We have such a great group of racers and lots of fun doing it :thumbsup:


----------



## TangTester

Maybe next race we can get Dave to take some more video and show the world


----------



## losiman2

TangTester said:


> Maybe next race we can get Dave to take some more video and show the world


we can do that :thumbsup: :thumbsup: still need to get that pic of bud on the dozer also... :hat:


----------



## BudBartos

Good idea !!!!!!!!!


----------



## wazzer

Tang/Bud, I know the lower pod plate and spacer need a couple of drops of super glue, so it doesn't move after getting it set, but how do you make sure the wheelbase is the same on both sides. I've tried measuring with a small steel rule but I don't think it's very accurate. Any tips? And exactly what distance is the wheelbase supposed to be?


----------



## TangTester

What I will do is use a steel ruler and lay it across the chassis where the front crossbar mounts, using a couple of bolts with washers and nut I will secure it to the chassis. Making sure that the ruler is tight to the side of the bolts. Then place an axle in to the rear pod, with new bushing. On a flat surface, ( I use my tile tweek board) I will use a square to project the position of the axle on to other ruler. Which I can then measure from the cross bar holes back to the axle. This has worked the best for me.

Tang


----------



## BudBartos

Wazzer>> I line up the rear first. axle bushing hole to the battery slot on chassis. Then check the front from king pins to the rear axle. Who Knows what the wheel base should be  It is around 148mm. You getting ready to come out to Freddies before the price of gas hits $4.00??? You can stay here for the night if You like.


----------



## wazzer

Thanks guys, sounds like two good methods to make sure it's square.

May is out, so probably the first session in June I'll try and make. I did some testing with Mamba brushless, (6800) had some reasonable success, but need to fine tune it. Used rear motor set up, purple rears, orange fronts, silver springs.


----------



## BudBartos

Mid motor with brushless handles like a dream at 600 MPH


----------



## BudBartos

Tang.. No new tips?? Don't want to be beat??


----------



## losiman2

I SMELL FEAR

WAIT THATS JUST THE BEANS FALSE ALARM GUYS ..... :hat:


----------



## TangTester

losiman2 said:


> I SMELL FEAR
> 
> WAIT THATS JUST THE BEANS FALSE ALARM GUYS ..... :hat:


Are you sure thats not Bud? Blue Sky today?


----------



## BudBartos

Savin the beans for the 11th :drunk:


----------



## martian 710

I hope my kids stay away from the beans. It's a long ride home!!! :drunk: :freak:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

How do you tighten the dampening post,use a spacer??


----------



## BudBartos

Maybe it needs to have a slight chamfer on it the screw maybe hittin  You didn't have TOOOOOOOOOO many adult beverages did You


----------



## martian 710

Sounds like too many Bahama Mamas to me. Don't poke your eye on one of those little umbrellas!!! What settings are you guys programming your speed controls to for the 6800 motors in Pro-Stock?


----------



## BudBartos

Mamba Guys?? The tekin is different.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

WHAT IS MAMABA GUYS??>>>Did TCian have use of your computer there Bud??And yes WAAAAAAAAAAAYYYY to many Shirley Temples on vacation,still don't know why the post is loose,noticed it BEFORE vacation.Almost 2 months since I raced last,still don't have car together


----------



## BudBartos

Come on Dan only 4 days till race


----------



## Micro_Racer

martian 710 said:


> Sounds like too many Bahama Mamas to me. Don't poke your eye on one of those little umbrellas!!! What settings are you guys programming your speed controls to for the 6800 motors in Pro-Stock?


Both Tang and I will have our laptops....you can plug in and see our set-ups!


----------



## TangTester

NOT MINE TOP SERCET stuff lololol


----------



## BudBartos

TangTester said:


> NOT MINE TOP SERCET stuff lololol


PORN !!! I bet!!


----------



## martian 710

BudBartos said:


> PORN !!! I bet!!


Thanks, I guess I'll have to send the kids outside while I plug in. :freak: :tongue: :wave:


----------



## Easy

On the mid mount motor chassis, what adjustment can be made to provide more rear down force???  The car seems to hop when going over bumps in the track.
Thanks 
Don


----------



## losiman2

on the rear damper spring just bring the stopper down to just touch the spring with no preload on the spring... and what weight oil are you using on the damper plate..?


----------



## BudBartos

You have to us 100 weight shock oil on the damper posts for dampening. Let Me look at it friday. What bumps are You talking about??


----------



## Easy

Backstretch. I was there today practicing for Fri. night, and the car seemed to hop down the backstretch.
Don


----------



## Easy

Also, I did use 100 wt. oil on the dampeners, and was working the top spring stop upward, but ran out of time.
Don


----------



## losiman2

yea the backstreach has a few small bumps in it but it shouldn't affect it that much just put the spring on so it just touches and tighten it down there and you should be just fine make sure your t-plate screws are tight cause that will cause you problems on the bumps also and i have had that happen as well :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Easy

Thanks Bud, I'll see you Fri.
Don


----------



## BudBartos

You also have to damper the front with our thick silicone. Sometimes if the front bounces You will not notice it but it will make the rear bounce.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

bouncing rear,reminds me of the Bahamas


----------



## BudBartos

Bring pictures  :tongue: :devil:


----------



## martian 710

You dirty old men!!!


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Darn tooting, the older the dirtyer. YIPEE!


----------



## kzxctf

TangTester said:


> Frank,
> 
> Gearing can be a tricky, if I am going to a new track alot times I will ask the fast guys what they are running, but if you can look at their car. Some of the fast guy will give false info.


Hi Tang and Bud.. since you two had the fastest trucks last this friday what gearing were you guys using in your trucks.


----------



## Freddie's Hobbies

LEts everyone remember, Tang Tip # 2 = if you get more than *4 laps down ! ! PULL IT *


----------



## Micro_Racer

kzxctf said:


> Hi Tang and Bud.. since you two had the fastest trucks last this friday what gearing were you guys using in your trucks.


the truck class for this series is one gear option only - 10/45


----------



## TangTester

you can run a gear larger then 45 but nothing smaller.

Hey thanks for marshalling for me. Thanks to Nicole too she marshalled a round for me. 

Running 2 cars was nuts. It was a weird night. I had my motored claimed out of the truck, Thanks to Marty. Oh thanks for dinner Marty


----------



## DAVON

HI :wave:


----------



## martian 710

TangTester said:


> you can run a gear larger then 45 but nothing smaller.
> 
> Hey thanks for marshalling for me. Thanks to Nicole too she marshalled a round for me.
> 
> Running 2 cars was nuts. It was a weird night. I had my motored claimed out of the truck, Thanks to Marty. Oh thanks for dinner Marty


2 cars nuts??? You should try 4 or 5!!! :freak: Three back to back 10 min. A-mains was insane. By the time we got to the Truck A-main I could hardly see. I don't think I had blinked for 40 min. :drunk: :wave:


----------



## BudBartos

Micro_Racer said:


> the truck class for this series is one gear option only - 10/45


As Tang said smallest spur is 45 largest pinion is 10 I think that is what everyone is running. It is not a one gear option only! But that is the best gear option to run.


----------



## TangTester

Last nights race was wild, it has been a while since I have seen a track go through changes during the night. I had to tighten the truck each run. I just missed the setup for the main the truck was alittle on the loose side alittle hard to push it the way I was. The 10 minute record was 117 I went 118 Vicky went 120.

I was a good time, I was alittle intense during the race. So who all I yelled at SORRY. 

I will post more tips soon
Tang


----------



## losiman2

no worries tang its all in racing if they cant handle a little constructive criticism then they should stay off the track..   great job breakin records guys ...


----------



## K-5 CAPER

I hope you weren't too far off in the main Tang,if so I'm taking up needle point!!!!!!


----------



## TangTester

The whole night all I did was to adjust the tweak shifting alittle more weight to the right front. Less then a 1/2 turn on the tweak screws.


----------



## BudBartos

Tang got beat by a GIRL !!!!!!!!!!


----------



## martian 710

Alot of us got beat by a girl!!! :freak: Great job Vicky!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

I was not even in the same zip code of Tang or the said girl,nice job Vicky!!


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Not given up those speed secrets?? We have to claim his motor again at the next race :devil:


----------



## TangTester

Go ahead and claim my motor. The last two times I have TQ afterward. I can allways use a new motor. 

Buds tip.....if you cant beat them hire a driver that can!


----------



## BudBartos

TangTester said:


> Go ahead and claim my motor. The last two times I have TQ afterward. I can allways use a new motor.
> 
> Buds tip.....if you cant beat them hire a driver that can!


Thats funny !!!! Good tip Tang


----------



## kzxctf

instead of claming tangs motor i am just going to have him pick one off the rack for me. it sounds like he has the magic touch.


----------



## BudBartos

Then You have to ask Don D since He pulled it from the rack


----------



## TangTester

Don D picked it off and handed to me....


----------



## K-5 CAPER

CAUTION>>>>>this thread could give your unit a nasty virus........Or maybe it was that sheep site???????????????


----------



## kzxctf

Had a ton of fun last friday.. wish the truck would have handled a little better. It felt fast I just couldnt make it through the turns.. I had the front tires trued after the first qualifier and I went from having not enough traction to way to much... I tweaked the chassis a little bit and it was better for the main but it wasnt quite right. I didnt run any tire compound at all in the main and it still had a little too much traction.. any suggestions on what to change?


----------



## TangTester

Kzxctf,

Which compounds where you running? What front springs did you have in?

I was running a high bite double orange front tires and purple rears. With silver front springs, I tweak the chassis so I had alittle more weight on the right front tire. 

The bite in the track came up alot I even traction rolled in the second round.


----------



## kzxctf

it sounds like the same setup double orange fronts purple rears. and the front springs are silver (they are the ones bud sent me with the kit). I may need a little weight on the right front tire. I was just surprised that I didnt need any tire compound.


----------



## Micro_Racer

kzxctf - you may want to take out D/R in your radio. I noticed you could turn tight circles! I have only 50% in my truck....


----------



## kzxctf

I guess I will have to go to the track for a test a tune session before the next race


----------



## BudBartos

kzxctf said:


> I guess I will have to go to the track for a test a tune session before the next race


Remember the front preload !! Also You can get too much steering through in the front end then You will scrub off speed.
I ran full rear niftech 1/2 right front and 1/4 left front inside edge. tweek neutral. Get it so it steers good and only use as much steering as You need to input to steering wheel on radio by Your hand


----------



## BudBartos

kzxctf said:


> I guess I will have to go to the track for a test a tune session before the next race


Also remember the track will get slippery so your setup may change on race nite.


----------



## TangTester

Micro_Racer said:


> kzxctf - you may want to take out D/R in your radio. I noticed you could turn tight circles! I have only 50% in my truck....


 
You want to have alittle steering as needed. When I go through the corner, I have to turn the wheel almost to lock. This when let you be smoother through the corner....My turn radius is about 4 to 5 foot dia circle
tang


----------



## ghoulardi

BudBartos said:


> Remember the front preload !! Also You can get too much steering through in the front end then You will scrub off speed.
> I ran full rear niftech 1/2 right front and 1/4 left front inside edge. tweek neutral. Get it so it steers good and only use as much steering as You need to input to steering wheel on radio by Your hand


 How do you adjust front preload?


----------



## BudBartos

Take king pin out. file front plate on bottom I would take like .020 off then reset king pin so You have the spring with the top shoulder washer just touching the e clip. Tighten down There may not be much for the bottom nut just make sure it has all the threads in the nut. I also glue both nuts when all is set. You may have to chamfer the bottom hole of the sterring block since it may snag the king pin were the threads are.
Try all this before shortening steering block. If You get that too short it may bind.


----------



## ghoulardi

*preload*

Tanx. You did that on the car you built for me and I did it on my other one.

Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Sure could use a tip or two


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Any tips this week????


----------



## martian 710

I don't know after last night maybe we should re-name this thread "Track Tips for Tang"!!!  :jest:  That's alright Pat we all have bad nights. That's what the 3 drops are for. :thumbsup: :wave:


----------



## TangTester

You know I would have been fine if I was not driven force in to the inside wall when I go to pass someone. Once I can see an accident maybe twice but when I get driven into the inside wall of the frontstraight. Where there is no wall and its the backstraight wall . I dont have a tips for that. 

But it was still my fault I let myself get into that position. Oh well


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Was it the old computer picking the luck of the draw Tang as far as qualifying??


----------



## TangTester

No just had problems in the first and second round.....still my fault


----------



## K-5 CAPER

what problems did you have in 2 rounds usually you are locked in after first run by far


----------



## TangTester

Truck was night and day in the first round to practice. So made some changes. Then second I had a battery go bad.....truck handle good but really slow.

I will figure it out and be back at the top


----------



## K-5 CAPER

That is really strange,as much as your rig has dominated for things to fall off that bad is hard to beleive,you had everyone covered by enough to stop,enjoy one of those BRP sausages,and still make the main,weird!!


----------



## BudBartos

It could have been friday the 13th last Friday for Tang that is.

The track did change alot !!!! I just made very slight changes on my cars and it worked out OK. What was weird is it went from no bite to way too much bite and then it seemed to go back. The bumps were the same in winter there is one on the back straight last friday there were like 3 on the back the front seemed fine then all of a sudden there wer bumps on the front. The Pro stock cars were airborne on the back straight it was cool.
Must be the summer humidity soaking in.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Yes,but usual 3-7 cars still did there 110 in the main,thats where I have hit the proverbial wall.


----------



## BudBartos

Which wall is that ??????????????


----------



## martian 710

The one that you and Tang need to make a bigger hole in so the rest of us can get through!!! :thumbsup: :wave:


----------



## BudBartos

martian 710 said:


> The one that you and Tang need to make a bigger hole in so the rest of us can get through!!! :thumbsup: :wave:


Will do I'll just through that 3.5 brushless 1/10th car on the track


----------



## TangTester

Montoya WINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## BudBartos

Your HERO !! Guess He had a better race weekend than You :devil:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang,I know I saw this posted somewhere before in the archives,what causes your diff to loosen up during a race?Does it have to do with the spur gear bushing??By the way.............any new tips???


----------



## BudBartos

Old nuts and bump !!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

You talking about me or the car Bud??


----------



## BudBartos

The car of course :devil:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tangster,if it is 95% about the sauce,what is the other 5% about??


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Sorry for the double post,but how about your boy JPM finishing second to the legend(no not that Bartos guy)at the Brickyard yesterday??


----------



## TangTester

Yep 

I was impressed there was no stop Tony from winning. I think if there was 15 more laps Montoya would have been knocking on the door. Will see what happen this weekend.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

What about the sauce question?15 more laps the other ex usac midget legend Jeff Gordon would have gotten both of them I think


----------



## TangTester

At the end Montoya was the fastest.....by a few tenths per lap.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

No answer to the sauce question?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Montoya might of got there but passing Stewart would of been somthing else,just ask Kevin Harvick.Where are they next week Watkins glen?


----------



## BudBartos

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tangster,if it is 95% about the sauce,what is the other 5% about??


Driving


----------



## TangTester

Pocono


----------



## Bill Weaver

Another flat track this week look for same players different order


----------



## TangTester

So what are your pics for Mich. I think Kasey Kane will have a really good run but wont win, I think one of the Roush boys will win.


----------



## BudBartos

Kyle Petty !!!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Hard to bet against Jeff Gordon these days


----------



## TangTester

BudBartos said:


> Kyle Petty !!!!


That would be even more impressive if he was even in the race. 

Thats my next tip. When P.O. at race don't go punching a wall. You may not make the next race.


----------



## Bill Weaver

gordons hard to beat expecially when he needs to make up for last weeks brain fart


----------



## RC 18 MT

lol im kinda new are these electric? and if they are whats the diff.?? probably a noob question.


----------



## DAVON

RC 18 MT said:


> lol im kinda new are these electric? and if they are whats the diff.?? probably a noob question.


CLICK ON THE BRP LOGO ON THE RIGHT.....AND YES THEY ARE ELECTRIC


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Hey Tang,1 o'clock am Artie Langs Beer League movie is being played on Comedy Central,check it out if you get a chance,and be glad you didn't pay at the theatre,but there are a couple of good parts.


----------



## TangTester

hey guys, 

I will be posting some more tips.........I was wondering if there was something that you would like me to cover on the BRP racing? 

Thanks 
Tang


----------



## losiman2

how about since we have the new middy chassis you do a complete build up from chassis up and what tricks and tweaks you use during the build... :thumbsup:


----------



## martian 710

Tang's tip of the day. Look out for trucks being driven by little blonde women.  D :devil: :wave:


----------



## losiman2

i have a ? for tang or whoever been drivin me nuts " short trip i know " for a long time.. i have two identical cars both v2m one stock rear plates one bb plates other than that the only diff is servos one is high end futaba the other is hi-junk i think i can put the same setup on both and never get the stock chassis as smooth as the bb chassis do the servos really make that big o diff.. it's a large diff in handling one is 6 cell one is 4 cell also but i have ran it 4 cell and it didn't handle that much better and i had a 6 cell in the better chassis and it handled pretty much the same i've done a chassis up rebuild on the bad chassis as well and found nothing diff from the bb chassis any ideas anyone...


----------



## martian 710

Losiman2, I'd check the servo in the car that's giving you problems. Turn the dual rate up on the transmitter and move the servo back and forth at different speed and see if it's smooth or notchy compared to the other one. If it's smooth check to see if the gears or bushings are worn and have any play in them. Also if you use a servo saver make sure it doesn't have any play in it and that there is no play in the steering linkage. Another thing is the BB plates are a lot taller so the leverage is different on the dampener and there is a lot more travel in the top plate. I had issues with one car that had an old top plate on it and the hole wasn't big enough. It would hit the post with about 1/8" travel. With six cells there is a lot more weight on the front tires. I have to run more compound on my fronts of my stock V2M car than I do on my super stock V2M. I ran BB plates on both. I don't think you would notice that big of a difference in the servos if they were both in good shape especially on the oval. I know there is a lot more things that could cause your problems and I'm new to these cars. But working on 5 cars each week I kind of got exposed to problems quickly. I did have to replace 2 servos this summer 1 Hitec and one higher end Futaba both were several years old and had seen a lot of use and abuse. I've built 3 V2M (one for each class) according to Bud's set up suggestion's. Put them on the track and didn't have to tweek any of them more than 1/8th of a turn to have them dialed in. Hope this helped and I'm sure Bud and Tang can give you some more suggestions. P.S. Thank God(Bud) these things dont have rear shocks.


----------



## BudBartos

Losiman>> The servo makes a big differance and how You set the radio for that servo all have a different feel. I never had a Hitech center properly.

The added weight of 6 cell changes the way the car runs also the V2M had all testing done on 4 cell. Don't forget stock is now 4 cell for the winter.


----------



## losiman2

yea i know were going to 4 cell and thanks for the sugestions i'll do some more playin... :thumbsup:


----------



## BDDelbert2

:woohoo: 
Alot of great tips on the BRP. Thanks for all the info. Can you direct me to the mid-motor conversion post. I can't seem to find it. Hope to do some racing with you guys this season.

Thanks,
Dale


----------



## BudBartos

The mid motor is a simple 7 screw change over from the V2 chassis. It handles much better.


----------



## wazzer

BDDelbert2 said:


> :woohoo:
> Alot of great tips on the BRP. Thanks for all the info. Can you direct me to the mid-motor conversion post. I can't seem to find it. Hope to do some racing with you guys this season.
> 
> Thanks,
> Dale


This would be the start of the SC18V2M thread. http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=169324


----------



## BudBartos

Hey Guy's when using the other spurs and pinions make sure You don't press the pinion on too far that it rubs the motor can or pod plate. I just press on with my finger don't tap on them with anything it will distort the teeth on the end and they may not mesh too well. 

I would start at 13/49 watch the temp on the motor !!!! Hang on :thumbsup:


----------



## martian 710

Be careful with the scalpel pinions the inside strips out easy. You might want to drill it for a set screw if you can. I had one go bad on my pro-stock and one on Logan's car. They were only installed once and hadn't been re-used.


----------



## BudBartos

martian 710 said:


> Be careful with the scalpel pinions the inside strips out easy. You might want to drill it for a set screw if you can. I had one go bad on my pro-stock and one on Logan's car. They were only installed once and hadn't been re-used.


I ran 2 pinions on the pro stock on and off many times and did on have any trouble. But then the brushless does run cooler.


----------



## martian 710

Does the 370 motor have a bigger flat on it so there is less for the pinion to grip? And it might have to do with the size of the pinion the smaller the pinion probably the less grip it will have and the more it will be affected by heat.


----------



## BudBartos

I think the 370 does have a slightly larger flat spot..


----------



## erock1331

Do you guys all use the smallest Kimbrough Servo saver on the BRP cars ?
Is there a part number ?

I'll be using a Hitec HS-81 Micro servo in mine.


----------



## BudBartos

Yes it would be the small red one.


----------



## martian 710

erock1331 said:


> Do you guys all use the smallest Kimbrough Servo saver on the BRP cars ?
> Is there a part number ?
> 
> I'll be using a Hitec HS-81 Micro servo in mine.


Kimbrough #131 :thumbsup:


----------



## erock1331

Bud,
What rate do I charge those packs at ?
and what peak detect.
I'll be using a T30 to charger.


----------



## erock1331

martian 710 said:


> Kimbrough #131 :thumbsup:


cool thanks


----------



## K-5 CAPER

E-rock you should light it up and be fastest guy in your basement good luck to you fast man!!!


----------



## BudBartos

erock1331 said:


> Bud,
> What rate do I charge those packs at ?
> and what peak detect.
> I'll be using a T30 to charger.


3 Amps but ?? on peak detect I don't have a charger with adjustment.


----------



## erock1331

Ok thanks Bud
I didnt want to get them too hot.
I know back when I ran the AA type cells I would do 2 amps with a .05 drop back to get the cells a little warmer.
I'll try 3 amps with a .02 dropback. If they false peak too much, I'll raise the dropback.

K-5 - Only if I can get good traction down there, lol It's a bit dusty. 
Maybe one day I'll make it up to Freddies for a Series race.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang,I know you haven't run new cot body yet,any ideas with chassis set up?Probably less rear end traction...(yes i said traction)than truck body and more straight speed?


----------



## BudBartos

Comon Tang answer the ????

I think it will have just slightly less rear bite use more sauce


----------



## TangTester

Sorry guys I have been out of town for awhile I just got my COT today. I have not even looked at it. I plan to work on the race cars this week

But I think it my have a little less grip......but that maybe a good thing on the road coarse


----------



## Hangtime

This brass pinion isn't going to work. Do Integy's work ok? Thanks


----------



## BudBartos

Hangtime said:


> This brass pinion isn't going to work. Do Integy's work ok? Thanks


No they are metric pitch. Are You running the 10 tooth that came on the motor?
That should be fine.


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >>> Any tips since We have the first race in???


----------



## Hangtime

BudBartos said:


> No they are metric pitch. Are You running the 10 tooth that came on the motor?
> That should be fine.


That thing wobbles like a clown car wheel.


----------



## BudBartos

Hangtime said:


> That thing wobbles like a clown car wheel.


PM Me your address again and I will send another gear. Parma did say they had some that the hole was on on center. Also check Your can bearing and make sure it is now worn. I know You said You water dipped it and I had someone else do that and it ruined the bushing.


----------



## Hangtime

BudBartos said:


> PM Me your address again and I will send another gear. Parma did say they had some that the hole was on on center. Also check Your can bearing and make sure it is now worn. I know You said You water dipped it and I had someone else do that and it ruined the bushing.


Will do. You have a PM. Thanks!


----------



## BudBartos

Got it I will send some out.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang>what gear ratio did you go with at Freddies last week?


----------



## TangTester

i was running 16/51 it was alitle tall but ut seem to work


----------



## BudBartos

I ran 14/49 !!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Professor Tang>>You being very wise and worldly I was wondering if you ever read the book entitled "Dougy The Puggy"??


----------



## TangTester

I have had of the book. I heard that they maybe be working on the movie! 
Tang


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang after your impressive victory Saturday night at Freddies, do you have any words of wisdom????


----------



## TangTester

Dont eat to much at the buffet before going to a race.


I went back to my old car a car I was going to retire last year before the truck class. I ran it is stock class for the first two races and likes the feel. So I just put the COT body on it and ran 14/49 gearing. I nevr touched the setup all night. It was about the best handle car I have had.
Tang


----------



## Micro_Racer

Tang - what is the advantage of the "long" king pins, and how do you make the steering blocks travel smoothly?


----------



## sg1

He uses that "secret homemade juice"


----------



## martian 710

Lots of "veener schlider"!!!  :wave:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Its all about the juice..... sauce....or was it the juice????I think it was the sauce?? Oh now I'm really confused please explain professor Tang!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

SG1>>>>>>congrats on great performace at champs,impressive!!


----------



## BudBartos

Micro_Racer said:


> Tang - what is the advantage of the "long" king pins, and how do you make the steering blocks travel smoothly?


They allow front sag if You run more sag You will have more steering especialy on power steering. You don't want to run the front end too stiff.
Tang how do You feel on this? Also what about which front You want more weight on for more steering :devil:


----------



## ghoulardi

Hmmmm... The silence is deafening.


----------



## BudBartos

Yes Tang is out of town this week for WORK!!! What !!!!!!!!!


----------



## ScottH

TangTester said:


> Dont eat to much at the buffet before going to a race.
> 
> 
> I went back to my old car a car I was going to retire last year before the truck class. I ran it is stock class for the first two races and likes the feel. So I just put the COT body on it and ran 14/49 gearing. I nevr touched the setup all night. It was about the best handle car I have had.
> Tang



So is that a VII-M or just a VII?


----------



## Micro_Racer

ScottH - Tangs car is a SC-18 V2M


----------



## sg1

Thanks K-5.. I owe it all to racing BRP's!!! We're off to the Nats today


----------



## BudBartos

At that race You can say You owe it all to the 1/12th cars  NOT !!!


----------



## TangTester

Hey Scott

Mirco is right, my car is a V2m I converted my V2 this passed summer. The front end on the is actually from my super car.....now thats old. The shoe goo that is holding the sevro on has turnned yellow. The car has allways driven good for me in a V2 and now V2m. I have build a second car but I haven't gotten it to feel as good as my old one. I guess I shouldn't screw around with something that works.
Tang

Yep I am up here is the world of cheese. It was 10 F this morning. yikes!!!


----------



## martian 710

TangTester said:


> Hey Scott
> 
> 
> Yep I am up here is the world of cheese. It was 10 F this morning. yikes!!!


That's where you belong. K-5 said you were a good cheese cutter.  :drunk: :wave:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang>>>Stay away from all that livestock there in Wisconsin (I have heard about you!!) We have enough problems with mad cow disease,we don't need you pissing off anymore cows!!!!


----------



## Micro_Racer

Tang - any new tips for the SC-18V2M?


----------



## sg1

Yes... Please enlighten us....


----------



## BudBartos

Just buy this Bud Built car!!!!! :thumbsup: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-18th-BRP-SC18V2M-car-roller-HPI-X-ray-Scalpel-BRP_W0QQitemZ370003775853QQihZ024QQcategoryZ34063QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## Hangtime

Yea, Its the Fatest car at the nationals!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Here is a very good tip>>>>>>>DO NOT LOCK YOUR KEYS IN YOUR VEHICLE WHEN IT IS RUNNING!!! DOOOOOHHHHHH!!!!


----------



## Hangtime

K-5 CAPER said:


> Here is a very good tip>>>>>>>DO NOT LOCK YOUR KEYS IN YOUR VEHICLE WHEN IT IS RUNNING!!! DOOOOOHHHHHH!!!!


Been there done that! Carry a extra key in my pocket.


----------



## TangTester

Here are some vegas tips.

Buffets:

Plant Hollywood.......very good well worth the price.
Harrahs........ Not big choice in food. Food was poor to.
Impreal Palace.......Cheap not bad for the price


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang>>>Since there was a closing of Taco Tico, where would you recommend for mexican cuisine??


----------



## TangTester

I heard that there is a Taco Tico 50 miles away is a gas station


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Thanks for the tip Tang, Richard's dad and I are heading there now.


----------



## Bill Weaver

word has it there may soon be a taco tico c.o.t. on the track


----------



## K-5 CAPER

That would be pretty cool Mr. Weaver, I would be proud to pilot that rig.Sure wish we had Taco Tico in this area !!!!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Good news Richard's dad reports someone else opening a Taco Tico in Fort Scott.


----------



## koolaid89

Looking for directions to rebuilding a SC18 ball diff.


----------



## Mike Clark

I can fax them but it will be tommorow. Look on Bud's web site they should be there.


----------



## koolaid89

I'm pretty sure I got it thanks anyways.


----------



## koolaid89

I'm looking for Monster Energy graphics or mask for my new GTP Sport body any suggestions?


----------



## BudBartos

ebay !!!!!!


----------



## koolaid89

Thanks Bud.


----------



## Bill Weaver

Grand opening today! Taco Tico rules! Nearest one is in Lexington KY road trip??


----------



## K-5 CAPER

#2 beef burrito /with sals head sauce and Robins tasty milk whites>>>very good !!!!! Big line out the door at 7 pm in Lexington !!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Going to try to make it out Sunday>> showing up at these openings all over the the country has been exhausting, but good sponsorship!!


----------



## Micro_Racer

Micro's Tip of the week - A heat sink on the motor will decrease the temperature - keeping the motor cooler longer - this has been proven on the track.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&P=9&I=LXKZP5


----------



## ghoulardi

Disturbing and insightful, as always...


Indeed...


----------



## Marty Mangione

So who`s racin at freddies Sunday???


----------



## DAVON

Marty Mangione said:


> So who`s racin at freddies Sunday???


I AM... :thumbsup:


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> If I want more steering which front tire should I jack more weight into


----------



## Bill Weaver

left front


----------



## BudBartos

This is a Tang Test


----------



## ghoulardi

BudBartos said:


> This is a Tang Test


 Open book?:freak:


----------



## Bill Weaver

is that the reason for last weeks traction rolling ??


----------



## BudBartos

You got it !!!!!


----------



## sg1

*Important!!!*

What has happened to Tang's Tips?? I haven't seen a tip posted in some time... hmm.... Maybe it should be "Don's Tips"....


----------



## martian 710

It seems those tips only get released when he is finishing laps ahead of everyone but Bud??? It sure got quiet here for the last several months!!!! Don said we should change this thread's name to "Track Tips For Tang"!!!:devil::wave:


----------



## Micro_Racer

TRUST ME - I love rip'n on Tang as much as the next guy - BUT - keep in mind that the tips on this thread have helped everyone get better! In fact the stock racing has never been so competitive! This is due the the willingness of Tang to share his secrets :thumbsup:.


----------



## ghoulardi

sg1 said:


> What has happened to Tang's Tips?? I haven't seen a tip posted in some time... hmm.... Maybe it should be "Don's Tips"....


 I really think we need an " SG1's tips " :woohoo:


----------



## waynesr

ghoulardi said:


> I really think we need an " SG1's tips " :woohoo:


 I am only a National champ.... I think I have only 1 BRP championship....


----------



## K-5 CAPER

I think we all have enjoyed the knowledge of Tangs tips,I know I have. That is also the nice thing about racing with ALL of you guys, the fact that you share knowledge and experiences with everyone to help others out. We are fortunate to have a good group of people that enjoy each others company and a guy like Freddie that gives us a good track to race at.


----------



## ghoulardi

K-5 CAPER said:


> I think we all have enjoyed the knowledge of Tangs tips,I know I have. That is also the nice thing about racing with ALL of you guys, the fact that you share knowledge and experiences with everyone to help others out. We are fortunate to have a good group of people that enjoy each others company and a guy like Freddie that gives us a good track to race at.


 Indeed !!!


----------



## sg1

K-5 CAPER said:


> I think we all have enjoyed the knowledge of Tangs tips,I know I have. That is also the nice thing about racing with ALL of you guys, the fact that you share knowledge and experiences with everyone to help others out. We are fortunate to have a good group of people that enjoy each others company and a guy like Freddie that gives us a good track to race at.


Was that a paid endorcement??

I think what you ment to say... Is that we all luv Tang in one way or another...


----------



## Micro_Racer

some more than others!  :freak:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

I thought I was showing my appreciation to Tang,the rest of you guys and Freddie>>>>>>agreed???????????


----------



## sg1

I agree! Freddie's is a blast and the people are wonderful!

All my joking aside.. Running BRP is much more fun (people involved) and less stressfull then a week at the Indoorchamps!! My head hurts for a week after that race. Even going to a club race running 1/12 or TC is an a$$ ache. I never went to a club race and just had fun. BRP is definately fun to race and Freddie has a great setup. If I didn't have the option to run BRP I'd probably be getting into trouble and wasting ALOT more money then what it takes to race BRP!!


----------



## BudBartos

SG1 >>> That sums it up now We need the rest of the world to figure that out.

Tangtester has been in a slump as of lately. We all know that happens right Micro !!! Why does it happen ??? If We knew there would be no slump.


----------



## RC 18 MT

Tang or Bud I have a question... My antenna thingy that comes out of the reciver on my rc car was ripped. I foudn out after taking my car out of storage for the winter and found that it was ripped and my brother has been messing with it. The cover thing that goes over it wont go back on... Any advise? ( I dont really feel like buying a new reciever but if i have to i will....):freak:


----------



## TangTester

Is the wire broken.....if not, just get some shrink tubing and cover the uncovered area. If it is broken....you can sodier the broken piece back on and see if the range of the radio works in is still ok. If not you may need to buy a new receiver.
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

That is if the cover thing is the antenna wire and not the antenna tube. If it is the tube just cut is shorter and leave the antenna wire hang out the top.
or just get a new tube they are like $1.00


----------



## RC 18 MT

well the wire is broken and the cover is fine but the white stuff that is on the outside of the wire is ripped and the wire broke there. And I just noticed that it is fraying down at the bottom close to where is comes out of the reciever. I can try to solder it. and if i am gonna buy a new cover ill buy aluminum.


----------



## DAVE B

any tips for mounting bodies, the stock mount doesn't work well with mini servos.


----------



## martian 710

DAVE B said:


> any tips for mounting bodies, the stock mount doesn't work well with mini servos.


Either Bud's blue threaded body posts or Associated 1/12th front body posts in place of the nuts on the front end screws next to the kingpins. You might have to clearance the front corner of the steering blocks to eliminate binding with the associated mounts.:thumbsup:


----------



## TangTester

Hi Dave,

On my cars I just used another set of BRP's rear body posts on the two screws that hold the crossbar on the car. Then fit the body and trim off the extra. I had never really had any problems using them there. If you use a large diameter post just be careful that you have clearance for the steering blocks and the servo wires. I will even tie wrap my servo wire to the post to keep it out of the way.

Tang


----------



## Micro_Racer

DAVE B said:


> any tips for mounting bodies, the stock mount doesn't work well with mini servos.


Dave - I have not been a big fan of the front servo mount. I have developed 2 different front mounts using 1/12th scale body posts. The first is to mount the post on the BRP bumper. The second is to make a custom front servo plate. Both work great, and do not interfere with the steering blocks.


----------



## sg1

Micro_Racer said:


> Dave - I have not been a big fan of the front servo mount. I have developed 2 different front mounts using 1/12th scale body posts. The first is to mount the post on the BRP bumper. The second is to make a custom front servo plate. Both work great, and do not interfere with the steering blocks.


Are these "stock" items??


----------



## martian 710

sg1 said:


> Are these "stock" items??


I was thinking the same thing!!!


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Semi stock!!!!


----------



## BudBartos

No they are not. If You want some let Me know they will be big $$$$$$


----------



## Micro_Racer

The bumper is a stock BRP item. The front servo plate is new and in development.


----------



## ghoulardi

Cheater !!!!


----------



## BudBartos

The stock body mount is the best !!! Just shoe goo it. No worrys about tweeking when Your NUTS are too tight


----------



## Micro_Racer

ghoulardi said:


> Cheater !!!!


       

Yes the body post is a HUGE advantage


----------



## martian 710

Micro_Racer said:


> Yes the body post is a HUGE advantage


No, it's the 1/4" wider spacing on the kingpin holes that is!!!!:devil::lol::jest::tongue::wave:


----------



## Micro_Racer

What you talk'n bout Willis?


----------



## Bill Weaver

:devil::lol::jest::tongue::wave:[/QUOTE]

family photo??


----------



## martian 710

Bill Weaver said:


> :devil::lol::jest::tongue::wave:


family photo??[/QUOTE]

Yep, yours!!!:woohoo:


----------



## DAVE B

Bud, are the "new" servo plates available?


----------



## BudBartos

I can make one.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Micro_Racer said:


> Dave - I have not been a big fan of the front servo mount. I have developed 2 different front mounts using 1/12th scale body posts. The first is to mount the post on the BRP bumper. The second is to make a custom front servo plate. Both work great, and do not interfere with the steering blocks.


 
Update - I tested the new servo/body mount plate this last week end. It was great, no issues.


----------



## Hangtime

Micro_Racer said:


> Update - I tested the new servo/body mount plate this last week end. It was great, no issues.


I don't know about that Micro. It looked like it caused the car to run into corner dots about 9:45 in the stock main!


----------



## Micro_Racer

No unfortunately that was just driver error, and it was more like 9:56 in the main!


----------



## BudBartos

Try 9:59.009


----------



## BudBartos

lot's of good tips here :thumbsup:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

I thought the professor retired, have not seen any words of wisdom in quite a while


----------



## BudBartos

I think He is trying to gain some


----------



## sg1

I think he is in San Fransico visiting friends... or something...


----------



## Ohio_Norm

I have what may be simple questions, at least for you:
A) The center post of my friction plates is loose at the base and wobbles slightly, is this right?
B) If put on a scale board, what should I expect to see for left rear weight?


----------



## Donald Deutsch

The post should by staight up and not move inthe slightest.Don't forget the 100 weight shock oil under the disc.


----------



## Micro_Racer

Ohio_Norm said:


> I have what may be simple questions, at least for you:
> A) The center post of my friction plates is loose at the base and wobbles slightly, is this right?
> B) If put on a scale board, what should I expect to see for left rear weight?


A - The post should not wiggle...I use Lock-Tight on the screw, and super glue the bottom of the post to the bar. It should not get loose.

B - That all depends on how you want the car to handle. I would recommend that you set up the car with even weight on both the right and left side (front and back) - then make small adjustments if needed.


----------



## BudBartos

Tips By Microracer


----------



## TangTester

hey now tips are welcome from all


----------



## TangTester

Yeah

Mirco is right....if that post wiggle or is loose it will make you car do evil things. I check my regularly between heats.


----------



## Ohio_Norm

Boy your right about evil! I didn't know how to explain what the car was doing. It was all I could do to hold on to it! Thanks for the advice.


----------



## BudBartos

Norm that part is going out Wed. I forgot it


----------



## Ohio_Norm

That will be fine, I still have to pickup the new servo at Freddies. Besides. I will be out of town untill the first anyway


----------



## sg1

*Question*

Tang,
What year, location, and band had a disco ball and a few broken tables???


----------



## BudBartos

Black flag Year ?? Agora


----------



## TangTester

I believe it as either 93 or 94. I was around New Years Day

What was the band and what song were they playing?


----------



## Micro_Racer

sg1 said:


> Tang,
> What year, location, and band had a disco ball and a few broken tables???


GWAR!


----------



## TangTester

nope it was a cleveland band


----------



## TangTester

I also believe it was in Brunswick at a bar on Pearl road


----------



## TangTester

The Band was Deaf Children at Play, and the song was "Kung Fu Fighting"


----------



## sg1

TangTester said:


> I also believe it was in Brunswick at a bar on Pearl road


 O'Hara's sports bar!! LOL...


----------



## TangTester

Where were we going to see them when I almost broke my ankle?


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Do we have any video of the debacle at O'haras????????


----------



## sg1

TangTester said:


> Where were we going to see them when I almost broke my ankle?


 I believe you had a small "mishap" with a curb one dark night in the flats after you just told me to take my sunglasses off.. then you fell!!! If memory serves me correctly, we parked on the wrong side of the flats and ran to the other side to see the RAMONES!!!!!

K5... no video.. unless you want to see the special one Tang made


----------



## TangTester

Yeah for the Ramones we parked on the wrong side. But we were going to Pebodies Down Under for a DCAP show when I nearly broke my ankle.

Ramones concert......2 to 3 hours of straight playing music.....no breaks. It was an awsome show. To bad half of them are dead now.

Tang


----------



## BudBartos

Tang >> Will You be attending the next BRP points race on the 9th?
Or is this a punk thread


----------



## TangTester

as of now i should be


----------



## BudBartos

OK !!! I better get more sausages and dogs :thumbsup:


----------



## MINIFREAK

Bud, Do you use shrink wrap on your micro cells? If so,who sells it?


----------



## BudBartos

Yes Team scream racing clear !!!!!!!!!


----------



## K-5 CAPER

Tang, what is the best way to cycle new batteries?? thanks K5!


----------



## DAVON

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang, what is the best way to cycle new batteries?? thanks K5!


CHARGE THEM,THEN DISCHARGE THEM..:thumbsup:


----------



## K-5 CAPER

thanx didn't know that first month in racing


----------



## DAVON

K-5 CAPER said:


> thanx didn't know that first month in racing


YOUR WELCOME,I'M GLAD I COULD HELP:devil:


----------



## MINIFREAK

I've heard some of you guys have rear bearings. What did you do about the left wheel being loose after turning the axle for the 1/8 beartings? Was itworth the effort?


----------



## DAVON

We Don't Use Bearings...the Bushings Work Just Great.


----------



## BudBartos

MINIFREAK said:


> I've heard some of you guys have rear bearings. What did you do about the left wheel being loose after turning the axle for the 1/8 beartings? Was itworth the effort?


It is not worth it.


----------



## TangTester

with the bearings you have more of a change to bind the rear axle. The extra work not worth it


----------



## MINIFREAK

Thanks guys.


----------



## MINIFREAK

*Scalpel bushing lube*

Do you guys use any lube where the Scalpel spur plastic bushing rides on the axle? SG1, I took your advice about polishing the axle and couldn't believe the difference! Thanks.


----------



## BudBartos

I just use BRP oil.


----------



## sg1

MINIFREAK said:


> Do you guys use any lube where the Scalpel spur plastic bushing rides on the axle? SG1, I took your advice about polishing the axle and couldn't believe the difference! Thanks.


 No problem


----------



## Don S

Tang,
Any set-up tips for the upcoming Pocono Track?


----------



## BudBartos

Would it be just see Bud


----------



## Micro_Racer

Pull your car to the BRP garage - and WALA - its all good.

Pocono tip #1 - stay off the ice, road rails, and walls.


----------



## BudBartos

Blue dot rears for sure !!!


----------



## sg1

You'll be faster if you run an 11 pinion


----------



## BudBartos

So thats why Your fast at the start and then slow up


----------



## sg1

I was slow the whole race!! The key is consistancy


----------



## BudBartos

over geared  :freak:


----------



## sg1

I ran a legal motor and gear combo...


----------



## BudBartos

sg1 said:


> I ran a legal motor and gear combo...


I beleive the gear !!!!!!!!


----------



## sg1

I was slow... look at my lap times...


----------



## TangTester

Besided pulling the car into the BRP garage. I think the blue rears and high bite fronts. With the front silver front springs. I hope I am as fast as I was last time. But I will screw up again and work on the car. Just like Tony S I cant find a break and finish the race.


----------



## K-5 CAPER

bump for steve


----------



## TangTester

Thanks K-5,

Here is a tip.....get you brp in good shape, and then leave it alone. The last three races the only thing I have done is change the motor and relube the front end. Just set it and forget!.
Tang


----------



## Casperbase

Can anyone list the different tires avaliable for the BRP Cars? I have seen some tires not listed on the BRP Web Site. Please post color combos from soft to hard... Thank You...


----------



## BudBartos

Fronts >> least bite to most #380B orange dot, #380HB double orange dot, #385B green dot sraight long wear foam and then #391B Blue dot not long wear but has the most bite.

Rears >> least bite to most #395 green dot, #396 Purple dot both of these are long wear foam And # 391 Blue dot this is not long wear but has the most traction and wear is fine on carpet.

On carpet We here in this area only use Niftech tire sauce It is the cleanest with no smell and great bite.

If Your running on tracks that have TC or oval cars running and bite is way up clean the tires between rounds with lighter fluid so they do not feal sticky.


----------



## TangTester

Hey 

Another season over. This one was very wierd, started off strong and the ended so as for as turn out. I think everyone that came to the races had a good time. 

So this was my 13th championship. I don't know if anyone remembers but the first race of the season I was totally out to lunch. I finished last out of 6 or 7 drivers. Worst start of any season. So the next race the car went into the BRP garage. I had Bud look it over and correct anything that I had missed. I was ready to give up at that point. So with that setup and new tires, I never touched it again. That was the third race. All I did for the rest of the season is to put one set of tires, and changed the motor once. I even left my scales at home and tweaked to a flat setup. I would also clean a lub the kingpins and damper disc once on race day. That was it, I set it and forget it!! Sometime racers work too hard on there cars, and over setup there cars. It is a simple car, dont think tooo much!!!!


----------



## Casperbase

Ok guys, Tech question for you....

What's the trick to put pinion on and taking them off without damage to the 370 motor in the BRP cars. Does someone make a pinion puller?


----------



## Easy

Use a small "c" clamp, It works fine. To remove, there is a small puller used for slot car motors.
Don


----------



## Casperbase

Would the Associated pinions with the set screws work? What is the pitch of the spur gears that comes on the BRP cars?

Thanks


----------



## TangTester

The pitch the spur gears 48. I believe the associated pinions are a metric so they really don't work. Some people have try them in the past but they have made noise and were bound up. Any slot car shop will have pinions, and pullers and presses. If you want a pinions with set screws, contact BRP he may still have some Scalpel gear sets that he modified to work on the BRP cars.
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

Casperbase said:


> Would the Associated pinions with the set screws work? What is the pitch of the spur gears that comes on the BRP cars?
> 
> Thanks


Associated pinions are too long also.

Make sure You support the end of shaft opposite the pinion side on a metal surface if your going to tap the pinions on


----------



## Casperbase

BudBartos said:


> Associated pinions are too long also.
> 
> Make sure You support the end of shaft opposite the pinion side on a metal surface if your going to tap the pinions on


 
Bud, What range of pinion sizes do you carry?


----------



## BudBartos

Pinions 8, 9 and 10
Spurs 45, 48 and 52


----------



## lawnguy

*motor breakin*

what the proper way to break in a new motor for the BRP's, thanks Ron


----------



## TangTester

Honestly Ron I just put them in and run them. Bud does run up each motor before putting the pinions on. But if you do, just run it for about 5 min on a couple of volts dc. Dont water dip...the brushes are so small, water dipping will eat them away quickly
Tang


----------



## lawnguy

TangTester said:


> Honestly Ron I just put them in and run them. Bud does run up each motor before putting the pinions on. But if you do, just run it for about 5 min on a couple of volts dc. Dont water dip...the brushes are so small, water dipping will eat them away quickly
> Tang


Thanks Ron


----------



## Micro_Racer

I find the key to "speed" is to ensure the motor is well lubricated before each run. I use the BRP Black Gold bushing lubricant on the shaft of the motor and on the axle. the other key to "speed" is to make sure the motor is not bound up. The gear mesh should be QUIET! Listen to Bud's cars - very little noise from the gears! The motor's BRP uses are all very close in RPM's on the dyno. Some racers have been using speed drops BUT you will wear out the brushes much quicker if you do....


----------



## sg1

Micro_Racer said:


> I find the key to "speed" is to ensure the motor is well lubricated before each run. I use the BRP Black Gold bushing lubricant on the shaft of the motor and on the axle. the other key to "speed" is to make sure the motor is not bound up. The gear mesh should be QUIET! Listen to Bud's cars - very little noise from the gears! The motor's BRP uses are all very close in RPM's on the dyno. Some racers have been using speed drops BUT you will wear out the brushes much quicker if you do....


I like to lube mine also Micro


----------



## Hangtime

If told you my speed secrets they wouldn't be secrets anymore. lol!


----------



## BudBartos

I have no secrets but then nobody beleives Me anyway


----------



## Donald Deutsch

Amazing isn't it. I beleive you, but what good has it done me.


----------



## TangTester

Anyone have tips on slider setups for me! I think I was going to start with the setup I had on the dirt and go from there.


----------



## BudBartos

I'll have a tip once I see them on the track !!


----------



## Hangtime

TangTester said:


> Anyone have tips on slider setups for me! I think I was going to start with the setup I had on the dirt and go from there.


I found this at rctech by Cory B

Here in Omaha, we race our sliders as a stock class with the kit esc, motor, reciever and servo. One thing that we are doing to get our cars to turn is putting a thin layer of tire glue around the wall of the right front. This way when the car wants to "grab" on the right front, it allows it to slip a little instead of traction rolling. I also do this to the right rear of the tire and use it as a tuning aid. If my car is loose, i adjust my right rear to get more rubber down in the turns. If it is tight, I adjust it so when it rolls into the corner, more glue makes contact (if that makes sense). 

I also use the Losi upgraded shock kit with orange springs on the front and blue on the back. I also put about 1/8"-1/4" of fuel tubing in the left shocks to offset the chassis. combine that with 25w oil on the left side and 40w on the right, my car is hooked up.

Hope this helps


----------



## BudBartos

Does that glue come in the box stock?


----------



## BudBartos

Tang>> Any new tips?


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## Micro_Racer

I would like to know how to zap a motor magnet.


----------



## ghoulardi

*Magnet*

Buy a zapper !


----------



## BudBartos

Why ??


----------



## Micro_Racer

Because it's what all the fast guys are doing ):


----------



## Freddie's Hobbies

Micro_Racer said:


> I would like to know how to zap a motor magnet.


You do know I have a motor magnet zapper at the store :thumbsup:


----------



## DAVON

Micro_Racer said:


> Because it's what all the fast guys are doing ):


I THOUGHT WE WEREN'T ALLOWED TO *MESS* WITH THE MOTORS AT *ALL???*
BUT I GUESS SOME PEOPLE NEED THE HELP.(ROSS)
ISN'T THAT ONE OF THE REASONS WE WENT TO THIS MOTOR???


----------



## BudBartos

Yes it is Ross please no more freeze !!
Don't forget We do have a motor claim rule just for this reason. You can claim anyones motor in Your resptive class for $15.00 and then You can have the fastest motor out there. :thumbsup: I wish racers would claim mine every heat.


----------



## DAVON

IF YOUR LOOKING FOR MORE SPEED JUST LISTEN TO TANG. I HEARD HIM SAY THAT THE BIGGEST THING PEOPLE DO IS PUT TO MUCH STEERING IN THE CAR...SO I TOOK A HECK OF ALOT OUT OF MY CAR AND ADDED MORE SAUCE TO THE FRONT AND IT REALLY HELPED MY TOP END....I PICKED UP 3 LAPS FROM THE LAST POINTS RACE USING THE SAME MOTOR.
MAYBE TANG DOES KNOW SOMETHING AFTER ALL..:tongue:


----------



## TangTester

DAVON said:


> MAYBE TANG DOES KNOW SOMETHING AFTER ALL..:tongue:


remember I am a 13 time champion and most respected racer!!


----------



## TangTester

When you have a variants in the level of skill for the drivers luck does play aroll in winning. Look at the race a few weeks ago. There was no way I was going to out run Rick. I was lucky in the fact that he got caught up in wreck. But once I got the lead I had to drive differnt. You have to learn to drive traffic! Everyone pays to race. They have the right to run where they want on the track. You as the leader have to get around them without wrecking them or yourself. Just remember a back mark DOES NOT have to move over and let you by. They do it as a favor that should be repayed when they are leading. You look a any real racing, they do not have to move over. So when you do get into the lead you have to learn patiences. Now some people think that people were just taking people out for the hell of it. Well I hate to burst your bubble, most of the time it is just dumb luck. So some will say "I saw Tang take out Mirco in the COT main." Yes I did lean on him and he did spin out. But I had to do something he was faster then me, and it was the end of the race. What I need to remember is the next time I go to pass him, I might get a payback. Will I get pissed?, Maybe but I will understand why. 

So what am I getting at for this rant. When racing, race someone like you want them to race you. Dont get pissed at a backmakers when you driver through them because your faster. Remember you have a steering wheel and a gas trigger they have the right to the track too.  And its mostly dumb luck someone have hit someone on the track. 
Tang


----------



## DAVON

*WOW!!!* I JUST WENT BACK TO THE FIRST PAGE AND STARTED READING AND THERE ARE ALOT OF GREAT TIPS HERE.:thumbsup:
FOR ALL THE NEWBIES WHEN DEBINDING IS MENTIONED THATS FOR THE OLD MOTOR...WE DON'T HAVE THAT PROBLEM ANYMORE.
IF YOU START READING AND FOLLOW THE TIPS THE SPEED WILL FOLLOW.:woohoo:
*THANKS TANG!!!!:thumbsup:*


----------



## Micro_Racer

TangTester said:


> But I had to do something he (Micro_Racer) was faster then me,
> Tang


True that! Bottom line - expect door to door racing. I want to say I beat the 13 time BRP champ at the end of the series!


----------



## sg1

Micro_Racer said:


> True that! Bottom line - expect door to door racing. I want to say I beat the 13 time BRP champ at the end of the series!


I may have something to say about this also...


----------



## BudBartos

What a good tip from the Tangtester :thumbsup: Thank You

I have watched many that are faster not be patient and get them self into trouble and loose big.
It's split second descisions and alot of the time they are the wrong move.


----------



## mini_racer

TangTester said:


> Ok this weeks tip:
> 
> One of the problems I see, is a car with way tooooo much steering. If you have the maxmium amount of steering in your car, and your car can turn around in less than 2 feet, you can be turning too much. With a stock BRP car speed through the corners is key, if you have too much steering you will only turn the wheel a fraction, to get through the corner. If you notice your line will not be the same. Also when you need to pass someone on the straights a small movement on the wheel will make a large movement on the track. All of that steering scrubs speed off and slowing your lap times.
> 
> So what I like to do is look at the track.....find the smallest width lane. Let say it 6 foot acrossed. Set my steering so I can turn around in about a 4 foot circle. So even in the tight hairpins, I will have enough steering to get through. And if I don't have enough I can turn some in with the dual rate on the radio.
> 
> Now if you set your car up like that for each track....oval or road you will steer less, which will allow you to carry speed through the corner.
> 
> 
> Tang


*Hate to drag this up again, but I thought it so good it needed repeating*

Good tip Tang ~

One of the biggest mistakes I see people make, even experienced racers, is that if you take their radio from them they have every bit of steering dialed into the car -- making it all but undriveable (to me).
Much as Tang suggests, I never have my car set were my 360-degree ability is a whole lot less than being about to turn around in just under one lane width -- too much tighter and only a very experienced hand can negotiate a corner (and there's how many in a whole race?), whereas if you have it set somewhere close to what Tang suggests you'll find your cars MUCH easier to drive FAST. :thumbsup:


----------



## Micro_Racer

Another tip - KEEP IT CLEAN! I see a lot of rear pods caked with grim and grit. I clean the damper disks and replace the 100wt shock oil frequently. If you don't, the rear pod will not be smooth. Look at Bud's car (or the rental truck) - you will not see dirt on the key working parts.


----------



## BudBartos

Micro_Racer said:


> Another tip - KEEP IT CLEAN! I see a lot of rear pods caked with grim and grit. I clean the damper disks and replace the 100wt shock oil frequently. If you don't, the rear pod will not be smooth. Look at Bud's car (or the rental truck) - you will not see dirt on the key working parts.


 
True because I work on them all the time NOT  Just like Micro said keep it clean and smooth.


----------



## mini_racer

Micro_Racer said:


> Another tip - KEEP IT CLEAN! I see a lot of rear pods caked with grim and grit. I clean the damper disks and replace the 100wt shock oil frequently. If you don't, the rear pod will not be smooth. Look at Bud's car (or the rental truck) - you will not see dirt on the key working parts.



:thumbsup: good tip Micro

seems like I'm always at the track and somebody throws down their car for practice and pulls it off after a lap and says, "dang it wasn't doing THAT last week! wonder what's wrong?" yet if you asked them if they'd given it even a cursitory once-over their response is always, "naw, what are you talking about 'routine maintenance' - who does that?"


----------



## ghoulardi

*Steering*

I don't know about you guys but on my basic JR radio I have "dual rate" steering. I set my steering around 40% for the oval. If I get into a tight spot and need more I can thumb the dual rate switch and have 100% instantly.

Just my .02

Indeed...


----------



## BudBartos

ghoulardi said:


> I don't know about you guys but on my basic JR radio I have "dual rate" steering. I set my steering around 40% for the oval. If I get into a tight spot and need more I can thumb the dual rate switch and have 100% instantly.
> 
> Just my .02
> 
> Indeed...


Keep that thumb off that switch


----------



## DAVON

BudBartos said:


> Keep that thumb off that switch


THEN HE COULDN'T MAKE THE SHARP TURNS INTO OTHER CARS.:freak:


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## BudBartos

Indeed :thumbsup:


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## DAVON

BudBartos said:


> Indeed :thumbsup:


:lol::lol::lol:


----------



## bowdeadly

*Chassis Dragging*

I just built a new BRP oval only chassis. I have ran it a few times and have noticed my chassis is way to low in the left rear battery side. It is dragging I found black on the battery tape. When I push down on the left rear corner it springs back but ony leaves about a 1/16" off the floor. My Dad just built his car and it has lots of clearence. What to do? It seems I have negative rake in the chassis. The car handle good I just know I am scrubbing off lots of speed with this dragging. 

Thanks,
Mark


----------



## TangTester

Hey Mark,
What I would check first is the washers under the front of the t-bar. Two washer should give the bar alittle bit of an angle and the chassis should be even then.
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

bowdeadly said:


> I just built a new BRP oval only chassis. I have ran it a few times and have noticed my chassis is way to low in the left rear battery side. It is dragging I found black on the battery tape. When I push down on the left rear corner it springs back but ony leaves about a 1/16" off the floor. My Dad just built his car and it has lots of clearence. What to do? It seems I have negative rake in the chassis. The car handle good I just know I am scrubbing off lots of speed with this dragging.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark


First make sure the 2 spacers are between the T plate and chassis in the front hole.
If they are bring the bottom damper adjusting collar up some so it is about 1/8" from the post mount plate. Then readjust the top collar so Your dampening is set correctly. Bringing the bottom collar up will also give You more steering.


----------



## BudBartos

Tangtester >>> Any new tips  :thumbsup:


----------



## Bones_99

Yeah new tip? How to free up the rearend Or de bind the motor?


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## BudBartos

Bones> No need to debind the 370 motors. Rear end assemble pod make sure bushings are sort of free in the holes if not burr out holes slightly. Put bushings in and install rear axle make sure axle rotates freely and put a small drop of super glue on bushings on the inside area of pods to glue them to pod. Also make sure the notched bushing is on motor side and clearance notch is towards can.


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## mini_racer

BudBartos said:


> Tangtester >>> Any new tips  :thumbsup:



I heard something about _Always christen a new car with a little of the orange magic dust _:thumbsup:


----------



## TangTester

Tip for this week.

Well I was thinking that I would give a tip about Thanksgiving. Thanksgiving is my favorite hoilday. Why one might ask, well here is your answer. 

The first thing you may think is because of a large meal with all of the extras and many types of pie. Well your partly right. I do like to eat but I am not a big fan of turkey. The really reason is that I spend most of the time at a race during Thanksgiving and not with my family!!! Living here in the Cleveland area the US Indoor Champs are every year during the Thanksgiving week. So I get to spend time with friends that I only see once a year and watch some really good racing. It has been awhile since I have race in it, but I really don't miss it. So if you are in the Cleveland Ohio area this week, stop by the Hoilday Rockside. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday Bud will have his booth, stop by and you may get an autograph from the tangtester himself......remember I am a most respected racer.


Oh yeah a tip for Thankgiving, wear sweat pants to dinner! Why? Because you can eat more without your belt digging in. If you family has a problem with the sweat pants...you can tell its either that or unbuttoning your pants during the meal! Hey its your family I am sure they have seen you wear worse!

Have a Happy Thanksgiving, and drive safe
Tang


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## Bones_99

Thanks bud. The axel isnt bent i was retarded. I do think that the bushings arnt lined up so i'll pop them out an do like you said. I'll see you up their Tang. An good tips.


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## BudBartos

Well said !!!!
I'm all for Fat Boy pants


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang, well put sweatpants at dinner might be your best tip ever....if that button on your pants lets loose you could put someones eye out !!!!! Happy Thanksgiving everyone !!


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## BudBartos

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang, well put sweatpants at dinner might be your best tip ever....if that button on your pants lets loose you could put someones eye out !!!!! Happy Thanksgiving everyone !!


 
Now that is a thought You would not give thanks for :freak:


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## JLUNDY71

HI guys

I have two questions on the SC18V2M...

What size bearings would replace the bushings in the rear? I can already hear "you dont need bearings" but I wanna know, lol.

What pitch are the pinion/spur gears?


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## Micro_Racer

Your right - "you don't need bearings"! but if you wanted to, you can use the same bearings that you use in the front wheels. A few things - you will need to sand down the axle just a little to fit, AND you may not be able to fit the bearing on the side of the motor, due to the motor position (the kit has a "cut" bushing for the motor side). I have always used the bushings, with the BRP Black Gold lube - nice and smooth!

Gears - you can get a set of odd and even converted scalpel gears from BRP....


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## BudBartos

Our gears are american standard 48 pitch.


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## JLUNDY71

Thanks guys


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## TangTester

Howdy people,

I am back from the Vegas!! and yes I still have my shirt.
This year I want to play mostly Cash pokers games and not the tournments, but I did play two tournments.

So if people are interest in hearing about any poker tips let me know.

Oh yeah, I was there for the wonderful 3.5 inch snowfall the pretty much closed down getting into or leave vegas, via plane or car. It was funny to watch the locals freak out over it.
Tang


----------



## Bill Weaver

poker hell. dont you know monday starts the history of ... part 2


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## TangTester

yes IM ready I have the week off from work!


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## Bill Weaver

2 weeks long 48 hrs


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## BudBartos

Tang >> Good thing You didn't take Your shirt off in Vegas  That way You can't lose it


----------



## ghoulardi

*Tang, shirtless...?*

Now there's a disturbing mental image for ya :drunk:


Indeed...


----------



## TangTester

Vegas did have its ups and downs this year. Overall I did have a goodtime and play many hours of poker. I played in two tournments this year. Most everyone knows about no limit texas holdem, this is what you see on tv. Well I only played one of those tournements. I made the finally table, and finished 5th oout 24 . These tournements you really have to be lucky in last stages because of the blind structures. So 5th was not bad, I was surprised with that, because of the lack of good cards I was getting. 

So the other tournment I played in was a Pot Limit Omaha High Low game. I have been working on this game for awhile, it may not be well know outside the poker world, but its is a game with alot of action. I wont get into details but the tournment normaly runs 3 hours, this one ran over 5 1/2 hours I was nuts. We started with 36 players, and 11 of them bought back in after getting knocked out in the early stages. So we had roughly 47 players. I finished 5th (again) but this time in the money. I was really happy with my play, the rest of the final table was surprised that this was my first Omaha.

My next post will be about my cash games I played.....now that was a up and down week!
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

How about some tips on RC cars ?? >> Do You wear the glasses at the poker table


----------



## mini_racer

BudBartos said:


> How about some tips on RC cars ?? >> Do You wear the glasses at the poker table


Always wear sunglasses at the poker table or the track, that way nobody can see if your bluffing, nervous, or just hung over. :thumbsup:


----------



## Micro_Racer

Back to the top...for all the new BRP's!


----------



## JLP75766

*Tang without the sassy banter. Message 1-213*

I wanted to have Tang's tips without the personal dialogue in one place so I went through and copied the pertinent info. into Word and then copied it and pasted it here in case someone else wanted it too. If this message is to long or violates any of the forum rules I apologize and expect the admin. staff to remove it. If it is OK I will go through the messages further past #213 and weed them out too.

=========================================
With a Stock Brp motor it is all about keeping speed through the corners because this will give you more speed down the straights. So the first thing is the diff, if the diff is not smooth or its too tight it will kill your speed. Replace the diff balls about every 3rd race day. I use BRP diff lube, and clean the diff aleast once a race day. Also make sure the diff rings are glue to the axle and hub, and there is no glue on the gear side of each. Now to set up the diff, Place your car on the track and hit the gas hard, the diff should slip 2 to 3 feet. DO NOT tighten it so there is no slip. The slip allows the car to accelerate smootly, no wheel hop and carrying more speed down the straightaway.

One of the problems I see, is a car with way tooooo much steering. If you have the maxmium amount of steering in your car, and your car can turn around in less than 2 feet, you can be turning too much. With a stock BRP car speed through the corners is key, if you have too much steering you will only turn the wheel a fraction, to get through the corner. If you notice your line will not be the same. Also when you need to pass someone on the straights a small movement on the wheel will make a large movement on the track. All of that steering scrubs speed off and slowing your lap times.

So what I like to do is look at the track.....find the smallest width lane. Let say it 6 foot acrossed. Set my steering so I can turn around in about a 4 foot circle. So even in the tight hairpins, I will have enough steering to get through. And if I don't have enough I can turn some in with the dual rate on the radio.

Now if you set your car up like that for each track....oval or road you will steer less, which will allow you to carry speed through the corner.

Thank you for the tips Tang. I can say that the tips are very helpful.
I had a bad habit of setting the diff way to tight (to get that jump at the start) but found that loose was fast.

One thing I struggle with the V2 is the rear pod. I use the 100 wt shock oil, and keep the spring collar high on the post (top of collar is level with top of post). I also reamed out the hole on the top pod plate. My issue is:
When you place the car on a flat surface, and press down on the chassis on the right rear corner (non gear side) the car will “spring” back to center rather quickly. One you do the same thing to the left side (gear side) the car’s chassis will kind of list to that side, it will not “spring” back. I have noticed when I take my car off the track; the chassis is a little sticky on that rear corner, so the chassis is dragging on the track in the corners – but only on that side. What can I do to correct this problem? BTW I do make sure my car has the proper tweak before each run.

Mirco,

The problem maybe in the front of the the car.....sometimes when the front end is bound up or a spring has collapes will cause an issue with how the car sits at the rear. It will tweak out right if you are tweaking from the front, but if you tweak from the rear it may show up.
Tang

Thats right You may have a front spindle binding slightly. Or one spring is stiffer or longer in length.

Tang>> Can You elaborate on how important a good gear mesh is for speed!!

Sure can Bud,

With the BRPs the gear mess can make or break a fast run. Too tight and you will be slow and a very good change of burning out a motor. Too loose and you can strip a gear and not finished the race.. You need it just right. Well how do you get that? To begin look at your gears, pinions and spurs. Look for wear on the teeth, brass pinions wear quickly but give you a good mesh. So look at the pinion, if its a 9 tooth stock gear, they a brass with a chome covering, so if the gear has a yellowish color to it, time to replace it. Now look at your spur gear, if its old you can notice the teeth becoming sharp, remember the top of each tooth should have a flat on it. Ok so you gone out and brought a new pinion and spur, the pinion should be good to go on. The spur you will need to look at, sometimes in the manufacturing of spur gears a flashing can be on the edges of the teeth, does not matter if its a BRP gear or someone elses. Check the gear, if there is some, you will need some needle files, they are pretty cheap and you can get them at most tool stores. Take the files and knock off the flashing on the teeth, but be sure not to damage the teeth.

Ok now we have our gears ready to go, put the diff together and check to see if the gear will rotate true on the axle. If it doesnt, check to see if the axle is bent. If it is replace it, don't try to straighten it , you may get it close, but the car will not work right. With the diff together, put the motor in next. If it is a new motor be sure to pre thread the mototr screws into the motor this will lead to less chance to binding when the motor is tighten.

Ok move the motor and mesh the gears, tighten the motor screw alittle, but be able to move the motor still. There should be a little slop in the mesh......this is the black art of setting the mesh. Check the slop in several spots in the spur gear. Next use a run up pack to turn the motor, listen to the mesh as it starts up. You should be able to tell a bound up gear mesh. Now the other side is if it is loose it will be loud also but and different sound. You want the mesh to be as quiet and possible on the start up and run downs. Thats the key..... also if you grab a wheel and spin the diff you can hear the drag on the gears. I nice smooth sound it what you are looking for.

Now if you are happy with your mesh, tighten the screw alittle at a time going back and forth between them...Also you do not need a lot of torque on the motor screws. Check the mesh , does it turn over free and has the slop in it? If it has the slop, but does not turn over as free as it did, you have bound up the motor when you tighten it. DONT WORRY, take a small flat blade screwdriver and place it under the pinion and against the pod and put a little force on the pinion outward. Then tap back towards the center of the car on the pinion. Repeat this a couple of time untill the motor frees up. GUYS this is the reason some of the motors burn up. You need to check for this every time you put your motor in.

So now with good gear mesh your not wasting energy turning the gears and you should be faster. Next time your at the track, listen to the fast cars on the track....you will hear alot less nosie coming from there cars.

Tang,

Have a couple of questions on gearing. What kind of gearing do use if you are on a road course, that doesn't have a long straight away and has short shutes between turns? What kind of gearing do you use on a high bank oval like Classic? Also have a question on tire size. I see alot of you measuring your back tires. What size area are you looking to keep the rear tires?

Frank,

Gearing can be a tricky, if I am going to a new track alot times I will ask the fast guys what they are running, but if you can look at their car. Some of the fast guy will give false info.

Gear ratio::: Spur/pinion = ratio 52/9= 5.7777 48/9 = 5.33333

High the ratio = more acceleration out of the corner
Lower the ratio= more top end speed.


So if you dont have that info I would start with the a 9/48 or 9/52 gearing. Both are pretty safe. What to look for on the track, is good acceleration off the corners and top out speed about halfway down the straightway.

So when you are praticing listen to you car, does it bog out in the corner, or is it smooth and accelerates out. If you seem to be really fast down the straight but you are getting beat in the infield go to a high ratio. If it seems like everyone is passing you down the straight.....go to a lower ratio.

Now the key factor in of this is how hot is the motor getting. When you pratice for the five mintues, feel the motor.....if it is really hot try a high ratio.....if it is warm and you can hold on to it, try a lower ratio. Once a motor gets extremely hot its perfomance can drop off or burn up.

As far as a big oval, you should start with a 45 and a 9 or 10 pinion......From that I would go higher or lower ratio based on how it performs on the track.

Remember each motor is different, some can have lots of torque with low rpms, these work well with lower ratios. The other end, you can have a motor that screams free revving but, need a higher ratio to keep the rpms up for its performance.

As far as the rear tires in BRP racing, most are measuring to see if there is any difference from left to right. Other forms of racing the tire dia is figure in the ratio this is call the "rollout". The BRP car rear tires wear so little on the carpet is really does not factor much into the set up. On the bigger cars, the tire wear can be so much that each run a pinion tooth maybe needed to kept the same rollout of the car.Biggest thing for the BRP car is that the tires are big enough to give good ground clearance under the chassis and that the chassic sits even front to back. You may need to change the front or backs to gave that clearance.


Last words about gearing, For most road coarses that I have raced on a 48 or 52 spur with 9 or 10 pinion has been good for me. Oval, with a 45 spur a pinion of 10 or 11 and as high as a 12. These all depend on how the gear mesh is set and that the motor is not bound up.


Thanks for the question Frank. Cya at the track

ghoulardi, Toe in or toe out.......this can be at debate for some people. On big tracks where your at higher speeds, I have found alittle toe in is good. Toe in make the car more stable and less likely to drift around. On a really tight track or if I need the car to turn in hard, I will run some toe out. When setting the car up I will start with some toe in and adjust the other parts of the car, and then use toe as a last adjustment.
Tang

Hey Guys,

Sorry for the delay this week, I have been really busy.

This weeks tip has to do with the front end of the car. The front end of the car, the king pins are one of the most important parts of car setup. If the steering block bind up on the kingpins it car really mess up the cars handling.

So to start you need to polish the kingpins, you will need some sand paper, 600, 1000, and 1500 grits. You can find the 1000 and 1500 grits at a good auto parts store that deals with autobody and paint supplies.

Inspect the kingpins for any burrs and remove with a fine file, then put the kingpin in a drill holding it by the threads, you don't need to tighten it too tight where it would damage the threads. Then start with the 600 grit, sanding the kingpin, I like to use aliltte WD-40 on the sand paper. Keep going untill an nice even surface is achived. Then switch to 1000 and then 1500 grits until the kingpins have an nice polished surface.

Now the steering block, deburr the kingpin holes. The check for free movement on the kingpin. If not keep polishing or check the steering block for problems.

Now to assembly the front end, place the first nut on the kingpin, and tighten it up. Make sure it bottoms out on the threads, then measure both kingpins from the eclip slot to the top of the nut. They need to be the same. If not adjust one of them to match, and then super glue the nut.

The put the kingpin on to the front on, and put the nut on the bottom and tighten. I like to then put a drop of super glue on the bottom of the nut, this will secure the nuts. ( If you need to hold the kingpin, hold with pilers at top near the eclip slot.
Then put some BRP diff lube on the kingpin, and put the steering block on. Then check then spring measuring their length is the same. The put the green washer on with the eclip. The front end should be nice and free.


During a season I like to change the steering blocks aleast once or twice. The holes in the blocks do wear out and then the block can bind but will feel free under a vertical load, and bind under a side load.


Well now everyone go and free up your steering blocks\
Tang


Hey guys this may be a dumb question, but how do I tighten my (ball) diff?? I'm getting way too much slip.

If you have it to were the nut is all the way down You may have to file the brass bushing in the gear so it is thinner. It may be rubbing the wheel hub and not allowing the diff balls to have enough pressure on them.

Hey Guys,

Here is this week’s tip. One thing I keep seeing and this even happen to me this pass weekend. You need to check your rear pod screws and check them each run. I try to make it a routine after each run to check all of the screws on my car. This past weekend I lost two screws out of the pod
Also you need to check the pod plates to make sure their are not bent. Any bend it the plates could cause a bind in axle or misalign the gear mess. I like to use a steel block placed between the ears on the plate and then placed on flat surface. I then use a hammer to hit the block, which flattens the plate. This only works a couple of times before you need to replace them. I will also try to keep an extra set of plate in my tool box so I can replace them at the track and wait to straighten the others at home. Most of the time you don’t have the means to achieve good results at the track. Don S sells a brass tub which goes between the bushing on the rear pod added strength and alignment to the pod. It’s a pretty good idea and some cheap insurance on keeping the pod straight.

Catch everyone later.
Tang

Great tip, have lost a few of those screws over the years. That is why I have seen some people assemble the pod using 2/56 screws and minature locknuts.

Just put a dab of super glue on the bottom ones when set. On screw and pod plate.

HEY Guys,

Mirco, I have found that getting the most out of a 16d motor is not that hard. Some motors will run better then others, there is not much we can do about that. The key is when you do find one, to take care of it. The bigger enemy to a motor is heat, one over heating a motor can kill its preformance. So what is tooo hot, well feeling the motor after a run, can you leave your hand on it. If you can't then its tooo hot. So what causes that, over gearing can cause heat in the motor. Running to small of spur gear or to big of a pinion. Remember the straightaway is only a third or a quarter of your total lap time for a lap. So being the fastest down the long straightway is not the answer......it looks cool. Gear mesh.....we talked about this before to tight of a gear mesh will bind and put a extra load on the motor. The last thing is the rear axle, make sure its nice and free, any bind will heat the motor up.

Also, if I find a good motor I will pratice with another motor and save the good one for the race. I try to keep the time on a motor as low is prossible.

I have had a fast motor last over 16 races, this motor has won many many races. I am lucky no one claimed it.

Well catch everyone later
Tang

thanks for the tip(s) tang!

Could you give a rundown of the lubes that should be used(as in what weights)? I know there is 100wt for the damper but how about the kingpins and diff and anything else that must be lubed???




For the front kingpins and the diff I use BRP's diff lube, for the bushing in the rear axle and the motor I use BRP's Black gold? its a graphite and oil mix that Bud has.

Just make sure the kingpins are nice and free, if they are not before lube, you may have problems.....check early posts for tips on kingpins.


Do you S18v2 racer's use threaded turnbuckles to adjust toe-in/toe-out or do you just bend the stock ones. Also are you using the "super wing" and is anybody running any caster/camber?

We are coming out with a tie rod turnbuckle set. Bend the bottom is fine You want just a slight amount of toe out. Run the top one at as shallow of a angle as You can to get rid of bump steer. We run no extra caster and no chamber. The front blocks are trailing blocks so they give You some caster. The super wing is great if Your on a track with med bite, the track we run on has way too much bite so most do not use it. Also if your on a smaller track it will help.

Correct Tang????


Tires for carpet racing I like the orange and green tires....I have been stay with that combo and working more with the chassis. What I like to do is to rotate the front tires every run, and the rears aleast once a race.

One thing to watch is tire wear. These cars dont have any ride height adjustment, so its all controlled by the tire diameter. Too small and the car drags. So the fronts wear out more then the rears so you have to watch this. So if your car starts wierd check the ride height.
I also try to replace the fronts and rears at the same time. Sometimes if you replace the fronts the old rear tires will have grip build up, and the new fronts will have less grip and your car may push and mess up the balance.

well more tips later
tang

Da Track can be a tricky track. At first is looks simple, however when you start going fast the line that you take can be as important as car set up. 1 and to is pretty straight foward line and pretty smooth.....as you come out of 2 you want to stay mid track to more inside. There is a bump on the outside what would can mess you up. Now you will pick up some good speed because of the slight down hill run. Stay towards the middle to the inside going into 3 .....there a bump which will mess you up going in the turn. Come out of 3 into 4 stay towards the inside and drift out as you exit.....setting up for 1.

Car setup Buds Long Wear fronts and rears. Trinty Red dot tire traction put on right before the run.

After each run rotate the front tires. About every other run rotate the rears and rebuild the diff. Remember everything will get dirty so cleaning and relubing the front end is important.

tang when you polish front kingpins is there a certain dia. that you need to mantain before you wind up with to much slop in steering blocks. just want to make sure i dont go overboard when polishing them thanks alot for tips and info that will increase speed and decrease lap times. thanks alot dennis

Just polish them slightly!!!! I use 1500 grit paper and no polishing compound. Make sure You bur the edges on the steering blocks for the king pin holes.
Correct Tang???

Also, when polishing check the diameter in several different locations. Make sure it is the same up and down the king pin.

Thats right Bud, 1500 and even 2000 grit paper works well......I like to use some WD 40 and kept the paper wet. Also watch the steerring blocks, if running outside or a really dirty track, I would replace then about 4 to 6 race days. They do wear and will feel free, but will bind up in a side load from the corners.

Tang

king in regards to top pod plate would i gain any rear damping if i where to deburr outer edge of plate and also hole both top and bottom. and would it also help if i where to ream hole in top damping plate would appreciate any knowledge you have on topic. thanks alot dennis & Nicole

Make that hole alittle larger and for sure smooth out the edges. I tryed teflon tape but did not like it. The 100 weight shock fluid helps.

Hey guys,

Sevro will make or break a race car. I have had really good luck with the Futaba S9602. Kimbrough servo savers are the best, and you need to replace them aleast once a year.

Mounting the servo I allways use shoe goo.....Kmart has it in the sporting goods dept. Leave aleast a day drying time.....and best 2 to 3 days before the race.

Later
Tang

OK, Tang...any hints on springs? Word last week is silver should have worked, but seemed many guys changed out to stiffer springs on the slick track.

Bud-which colors are which spring rates?


the silver springs are the softest then its orange are stock. Then blues are a bit stiffer over the orange

So saturday I started with the silver springs, but with slippery conditions I wanted less bite in the front end. So I went to the orange springs. It really hooked up then, except for one turn on the infield. You just needed to be careful and watch your line and when you got on to the power. Its just a very trick off camber corner.

Tang

tang can you please share your secret for getting you car super smooth and keeping your motors 108 deg and under anything like gearing lubes maint. ect.
I clean and rebuild my car after every race day clean bearings and reoil and the rear end and diff, kingpins everything i can think of and stiil not as cool running as you and buds whats your "tangs tips" for this please....thanks...
Dave


Dave, biggest thing is making sure everything is free in the car no binding of any sort. Make sure after you put a motor in you debind the bushing in the motor. Next, is picking the correct grear ratio as to not bog out the motor. Also getting the right set up so the car will be just alittle free, but wont spin out. You want to keep the car from binding up in the turns.

Last thing, and the hardest is to not hit anything, when you are stoping and starting it can build heat in the motor. You can thing of it this way, your real car runs cooler running down the highway at 70mph or in downtown traffic?
Tang

Hey Guys,

Freddie set up,

This is what I was running at freddie's

Front springs : orange
Front tires: Orange dot
Rear tires: Green dot

Gearing 10/52 with a 1.396 rear tire dia.

Dodge Body

MAKE SURE THE FRONT END is not bound up....I saw about 4 cars with front ends messed up! Polish the kingpins, use silcone (lots). The front has to work right for the car to work right.

Driving......Have very little steering throw in the car....I could barly do a u turn in the straight away, Drive a line which lets the car "float" off the turn.....K-5 was driving too tight, where he was binding the car in the turn. The car should want to drive out to the line on the track.....You get all of your straightaway speed in the turns, so the more input ( turning ) you do the less speed you have in the straightway. Just remember, turning binds the car because it wants to go straight, so turning less, will put less heat in the motor and give you more speed.

More to come
Tang

Hey Guys, I need some help-what to use and where to find stuff to polish my kingpins.In the past I used Flitz on my 12th scale rig but do not remember where I found the stuff. I also need to find a slot car shop where I can obtain 10,11,and 12 tooth pinion gears.The K-5 motorsports racing compound is housed in North Royalton,if any of you can guide me to the closest slot car joint where I can find these gears it would be way appreciated because if I have to run classic with a 9 tooth I will be really hating the ovals!!!!!! THANKS K-5

I go to an auto parts store which has auto body repair stuff, they will have 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit sand paper. I like to use alittle wd-40 on the paper and chuck the kingpin in a drill and polish away. Also make sure there are no burrs in the steering blocks.
Tang

When putting the kingpins back in the car, I will don't bottom the nut out on the threads, I will only turn it on far enough to mount the kingpin and the bottom of the kingpin thread to be flush with the bottom of the nut. What you need to do is the top nut, figure out where it has to be, then glue the nut in place. There maybe some threads showing on the steering block side. Make sure that the distance between the e-clip slot and the bottom of the nut is the same on both kingpins. Then place it on the crossbar, tighten and then glue the bottom nut in place.

When you put the steering block back on, you may have to countersink the bottom of the steering block to clear any threads on the kingpin.

What this does for you, it unloads and preload on the front springs, so now you car is just sitting on the front springs. This will help smooth the car out, and give you more steering.
Tang

Another good tip:

Make sure the bearings in the front tires are smooth. To do this, let them sit over night in lighter fluid. This will remove the grease and dirt. Spray them out with motor cleaner, and oil them with BRP oil. I also place an aluminum shim on the axle between the steering block and tire and between the bearing and nut. This will ensure that the tire spins freely. Also do not over tighten the nut.

Also on a few cars I have noticed that the rear axle is not "free". A lot of people are using the washers and blue bearing on the right side of the axle. If you do this it is very important that the axle can spin freely. If you tighten the washers and bearing so tight that it has a problem spinning.

Making sure you don't have drag in the front and rear of the car will help make your car faster!

K-5,

Watch mounting the transponer on or near the receiver, it may cause glitting. If you stand your receiver on its side, there should be enough room for it all. Best way to mount it is shoe goo....this works well for everything on the car. You need to give aleast one day for the goo to dry, two days before the race would be better.

I have had good lucky with Loctite's super glue, it is in a red bottle and doesn't clog, you press on the side and it will then flow. Or I will even use the CA in the bottle with the brush work well.
Tang

213


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## DAVON

*WOW!!!:thumbsup:*


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## BudBartos

That is a LONG post Thanks


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## JLP75766

*OK to go ahead?*

So....do you think it is OK to go ahead with the rest of the posts? Maybe 100 at a time or something like that?
Joe


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## wazzer

Very good info. Put it in a PDF version, organized by subject matter, etc. Then attach setup sheet that Legendno6 came up with. Sort of a BRP racers go to book.

Bud, micro, this stuff should be posted on your websites.


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## Micro_Racer

wazzer - Actually I started to create a BRP Tips & Set-Up web site, using a lot of the tips on this thread, but never finished. The problem was I started it over a 2 years ago, and the pictures were of the SC-18V2 (old chassis). I never had the time to go back and change the pictures to the SC-18V2M, or now the LTO for oval racers. Now that I have a web site back up, I may just put what I have on it. Something I was looking forward to was a project Tang was working on. He was putting together an instruction manual with exploded views, and I believe an e-version with assembly animation. Tang what ever happened to that project?

JLP - if you want you can put all the tips together in a word or text document and email it to me at [email protected]. I can post it to my web site - this way it wont get buried in this thread again. It would at least be a start!


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## BudBartos

It's OK with Me


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## JLP75766

Micro_Racer said:


> wazzer - Actually I started to create a BRP Tips & Set-Up web site, using a lot of the tips on this thread, but never finished. The problem was I started it over a 2 years ago, and the pictures were of the SC-18V2 (old chassis). I never had the time to go back and change the pictures to the SC-18V2M, or now the LTO for oval racers. Now that I have a web site back up, I may just put what I have on it. Something I was looking forward to was a project Tang was working on. He was putting together an instruction manual with exploded views, and I believe an e-version with assembly animation. Tang what ever happened to that project?
> 
> JLP - if you want you can put all the tips together in a word or text document and email it to me at [email protected]. I can post it to my web site - this way it wont get buried in this thread again. It would at least be a start!


I will do that. Some of the tips are for oval racing and some are for road course and some are for setting up the basics. I was just trying to get everything except the dialogue between the local racers weeded out and all of the info. in one place so I could go through it and use it to set up a new BRP I have coming from Bud. (I am really looking forward to getting it!!). We do not race 1/18th on my local carpet track and I am trying to get it started and I want to know as much as possible before I run the car the first time.
JLP


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## BudBartos

If You have a New BRP coming from Bud Your set :thumbsup: 
It went out yesterday by the way.


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## K-5 CAPER

Just reading over Tangs tips a lot of good stuff here. Is anyone using orange springs up front anymore??


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## BudBartos

No they are too stiff.


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## K-5 CAPER

Thought so Bud, I think we need the good professor to update some of his information. Tang what is the make and model number on your sunglasses??


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang is it important to know what spur gear ACTUALLY is in your car??


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## BudBartos

WOW  :woohoo:I still say He has had that in all season :drunk:


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## Micro_Racer

BudBartos said:


> WOW  :woohoo:I still say He has had that in all season :drunk:


I say that would be highly unlikley.... we all changed gears for Toledo and Classics......Tang was 4 laps down with the 48 spur.... no way that was in all year.

Tang - post your speed tips - you were fast today.


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## Micro_Racer

I changed my set-up and had a personal best yesterday (it would have beat the old track record)

Blue front tires - 2/3 Niftech
spring spacer on both the top and bottom of the spring (keeps spring centered on kingpin)
Blue rears
double pivot ball T-plate
left rear weight


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## sg1

Micro,
I PM'ed you a few ideas..


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## BobS311

Double pivot ball T-Plate??? I must have missed that.


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## BudBartos

Yes but tang was running a solid T plate


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## Micro_Racer

BobS311 said:


> Double pivot ball T-Plate??? I must have missed that.


Bob - Bud has had them on the rack for a few weeks, $10.... if you do pick it up be sure to ream out the tweak screw hole as to not bind up the pivot ball.


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## BudBartos

Micro_Racer said:


> Bob - Bud has had them on the rack for a few weeks, $10.... if you do pick it up be sure to ream out the tweak screw hole as to not bind up the pivot ball.


Have had since Dec. They make no differance side to side but do make it softer for and aft.


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## BudBartos

Tang >> Since You destroyed the track record any new tips? Oh yes and beat SG1 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## DLS II

Hi, what's the part # for the double pivot ball t plate? I couldn't find it on the website. Thanks, Don


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## TangTester

Nothing more then keeping it simple. Only thing I did to my car after the first run was change the gear, jacked a little weight to the front left, oiled the rear axle and changed batteries. If I get a change a will post a pic of my car. You will see it is moslty stock set up. The weight I jacked was very small amount. Maybe a half a turn on the tweek screws.


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## sg1

BudBartos said:


> Tang >> Since You destroyed the track record any new tips? Oh yes and beat SG1 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


No comment...


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## BudBartos

DLS II said:


> Hi, what's the part # for the double pivot ball t plate? I couldn't find it on the website. Thanks, Don


It is not on web site. email me.


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## DLS II

Done!


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## BudBartos

Tang >>> Any new tips?


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## TangTester

Make sure to buy a second fast motor, right after yours gets claimed. I hopefully will be running two car this weekend. I want to shake down the figure 8 car. 
Tang


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang do you currently own a fast motor??


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## BudBartos

TangTester said:


> Make sure to buy a second fast motor, right after yours gets claimed. I hopefully will be running two car this weekend. I want to shake down the figure 8 car.
> Tang


Shaking down Your fig 8 car ?? So that means Your going to practice running into people :drunk:


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## Micro_Racer

BudBartos said:


> So that means Your going to practice running into people :drunk:


No practice nessicery - he has that down to an art


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## K-5 CAPER

What about you Micro.......any fast motors??


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## BudBartos

Dan >> You may have some fast motors in Your future


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## K-5 CAPER

Thats what i heard last night....listen to them closely Bud


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## Micro_Racer

Ok.....


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## Micro_Racer

K-5 CAPER said:


> What about you Micro.......any fast motors??


Yes - the one in your car!


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## BudBartos

What about mine I could use the $15.00


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## Easy

What is the best way to store tires when you are not racing regularly?
Don


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## BudBartos

Zip bag !!! Sauce them up day before. Race more often


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## DAVON

Whats The Best Way To Store Batteries???


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## Micro_Racer

You should discharge completely after a race then:
1. If you are going to store them for 1-2 weeks - charge them half way
2. If you are going to store them for 3 weeks + - charge them up all the way.

The important key is to Cycle them before your next race! I cycle mine 1-2 days before a race.


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## DAVON

THANKS.:thumbsup:


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## BudBartos

I do mine store at full charge. one day before race I will repeak them then discharge at 26 amps with the little cut off thingy. Leave discharged over night and then charge to race 3.5 amps pulse not linear.

If Your not going to run for weeks make sure You charge them like every 2 to 3 weeks and maybe run a cycle through them.


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## Easy

BudBartos said:


> I do mine store at full charge. one day before race I will repeak them then discharge at 26 amps with the little cut off thingy. Leave discharged over night and then charge to race 3.5 amps pulse not linear.
> 
> If Your not going to run for weeks make sure You charge them like every 2 to 3 weeks and maybe run a cycle through them.


Bud
What charger do you use to "pulse" charge them?
Don


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## BudBartos

tekin BC112A


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## Easy

BudBartos said:


> tekin BC112A


I thought they didn't like pulse charging. Which setting do you use?
Don


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## BudBartos

P2 I tryed linear and they were slower. We sure don't need run time


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## Easy

BudBartos said:


> P2 I tryed linear and they were slower. We sure don't need run time


Thanks
I will give that a try.
Don


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang>>> any body mounting tips?? How do you line things up when putting holes in the body??


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## BudBartos

Best to do when clear :thumbsup:


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## TangTester

I allways mount the body on the car whenit is clear....then wash it out with dish washing soap. I will dry it with a clean towel making sure to get all of the water out.


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## K-5 CAPER

i get all that, how do you get the wheel wells to be centered??


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## TangTester

I use the force.....I will sometime put extra washers behind the front wheels untill they hit the body....that centers the car and kinda guess on the wheels. Some of the older bodys had the front wheel arches marked.


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## BudBartos

Better yet just send it to Tang with Your chassis and He will mount it and paint it free of charge :thumbsup:


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## K-5 CAPER

Wow Tang, you would do that for me???

Can you rebuild my car while you have it??


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## Kevin Cole

Any set up advise for a very high banked(Bristol like)track?Lap times are in he 4.1-4.5 range...and its carpet of coarse.

Tang,SG,Bud,anyone...the more opinions the more to work with.

Thx guys.


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## TangTester

I hope Bud and SG1 can help... my record on banked track is not so good. The big things are to make sure the chassis does not rub in the corners....you can tell by black mark on the bottom. Have you run there yet? What is the car doing? 

The biggest thing that helped me was to not over drive the corner. The car will stick but you bind the car up and slow down. So watch your entry into the corner, and it will help you go faster in the straightway.
Tang


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## Kevin Cole

Yes-I run there every Tuesday night...its our club track(Left Turn Raceway/Muncie Indiana).I've won races and we have a very competitive group with 3 of us winning on different weeks.The class continues to grow and we're getting close to 8 cars on the track at a time.
Our banks are steep enough that you have to run from the middle up...if you dive to deep into the inside of the corner you lose to much coming off.The only time we lift the throttle on this track is win the race is over...or when there's someone out of shape in front of you(if they're lucky).
The reasoning for me asking advise...you guys are at the forefront of this class/cars and I'm always looking to better my car & skills.

Thanks...hopefully the others can add some thoughts as well.


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## sg1

It's been awhile.... but when we raced at a track here that was banked I ran the front weight L to R close as possible with a small amount of LR in the car. I used 1 deg. of neg. RF camber to keep corner speed and +1/2 deg LF. Battery location was balanced L to R, I didn't have all the batteries on 1 side. I did have .02" tire stagger in the front, LF smaller. LF was shimmed out .03" and the rear of the car was shimmed out evenly .03" per side. My memory is not as good as it used to be... but that's about it 




Kevin Cole said:


> Any set up advise for a very high banked(Bristol like)track?Lap times are in he 4.1-4.5 range...and its carpet of coarse.
> 
> Tang,SG,Bud,anyone...the more opinions the more to work with.
> 
> Thx guys.


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## Kevin Cole

Thx...good stuff sg1.

Now let's see what the wise(Bud)one can add to the mix.

thanks again guys...options are starting to add up.


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## BudBartos

Right just what SG1 said pretty much :thumbsup: 
Where We used to run on the banked track I always ran reverse stagger in the rear. Correct smaller right rear than left. On that track You wanted the car to come off the corner and slowly drift up down the straight and that did it. Tweek was neutral. And I think I ran the batts 2 x 2. That track was a blast too bad they cut it up.


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## Mike Clark

Kevin Cole said:


> Any set up advise for a very high banked(Bristol like)track?Lap times are in he 4.1-4.5 range...and its carpet of coarse.
> 
> Tang,SG,Bud,anyone...the more opinions the more to work with.
> 
> Thx guys.


What kind of surface are you racing on? How long is the track and degree of banking, run line? Brushless, brushed, lipo's, Nimh? The whole poop and nothing but the poop will do. This sounds good enough to be a road trip. Racing schedule?


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## Kevin Cole

We run them the way they pretty much come from Bud...

Box stock-the Associated motor with 10tooth pinion only(kit spur only),COT body,1600 max batts...any esc & radio gear.You can tinker with springs,lubes,and tires(Buds only)all you want.
It is the closest,most fun racing I've had in 20yrs of RC.

*we also run several 18th scale classes(Losi mini sliders,late models,mini t's, 18r's,etc).Legend cars are the only 10th scale our club allows.

I'll speak with the gentleman that built it about the banking...the carpet is 18x18 square's from somewhere like Lowe's...no problems with it in almost 3 yrs.


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## Kevin Cole

We have a club thread in the oval track discussion section here on Hobbytalk.We run on Tuesday nights right now...results are posted weekly(top 3 of each class).

A retired gentleman built this in his 3 car garage...we can handle about 30 racers max...but rarely get that many to show at once.


----------



## TangTester

Hey Guys,


Last night I tired Dome Flying. The Mentor club flys in the winter at a Golf Dome. So last night was their final fly-in of the year. I took two planes, my parkzone ceasna and my scratch build profile plane. I started off with a nice long flight with the parkzone. Then I tried the profile plane, which I had a hard landing and broke the prop. After replacing the prop, which I was planing to do with a lesser pitch. I got another flight with the parkzone. I switched batteries and got back out with the parkzone, by this time the dom was filled with 4 more planes. Right at the end of my flight one of the bigger planes got me. I mid-air cutting off thewhole rear of the plane. What was sad was I was on my last circuit before landing. Oh well, that plane was well used and ready for a replacement. I finished the night off with 3 more flights with the scatch build, and was really getting the hand of it. I think overall I had more time in the air then anyone else. 
I am looking foward to more flying this summer, and to running brushless BRPs in the summer series.
Tang


----------



## BudBartos

So tip is planes break and BRP cars don't :thumbsup:


----------



## harmocy

Hey what is a good size for a mini track I have an area that I think might work but would like to know what the min size would need to be good???


----------



## TangTester

The tip is to have fun and keep it simple. I guess thats why I like BRPs and the new planes that are coming out soon.

Harmocy.....I have no idea what you are looking for. Track size would depend on the cars you plan to race. BRPs are good for most any size carpet track.


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## sg1

Has anyone seen the race track at the Strongsville mall? I talked to them and will be taking my BRP up there  It's for cheap R/C cars they sell, and they race those cars on Wednesday nights. There's even some nice elevation changes!!


----------



## Donald Deutsch

sg1, what is the name of the store?


----------



## TangTester

I have seen it......don't even try. It looks like something out of Speed Racer.


----------



## sg1

TangTester said:


> I have seen it......don't even try. It looks like something out of Speed Racer.


I'm there!! I'm just trying to help Bud get the word out about his wonderful car. That way he may have to work and package an order 

Don, I don't remember what it's called. The lanes are about 3 foot wide with 2 foot tall plexi glass along the inside and outside!!


----------



## Hangtime

sg1 said:


> Has anyone seen the race track at the Strongsville mall? I talked to them and will be taking my BRP up there  It's for cheap R/C cars they sell, and they race those cars on Wednesday nights. There's even some nice elevation changes!!


Yep, They rent cars for b-day partys & stuff. Cub scouts too. The cars snap together then you race. You build it, then run it. Its a local guys idea. He may have a couple stores. Pinewood derby stuff too.


----------



## Donald Deutsch

There is one in the Beachwood Mall. At least the last time I was there. Who knows these days what people will spend their money on.


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## BudBartos

I have seen it the local Guy must have tons of $$$ since I don't see how they can make it in a mall like that. It was around Christmas and there were only loike 3 people in the store. All cheap Chinese juck cars.


----------



## harmocy

*track size*



TangTester said:


> The tip is to have fun and keep it simple. I guess thats why I like BRPs and the new planes that are coming out soon.
> 
> Harmocy.....I have no idea what you are looking for. Track size would depend on the cars you plan to race. BRPs are good for most any size carpet track.


I am wanting to run minis including 1/18 and recoils and brp cars and trucks any help with the size would be great length x with and lane size as well I am working with a 2 1/2 car garage and dont know if that would be enough room


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## Micro_Racer

harmocy said:


> I am wanting to run minis including 1/18 and recoils and brp cars and trucks any help with the size would be great length x with and lane size as well I am working with a 2 1/2 car garage and dont know if that would be enough room


I had a track in my two car garage - the lane size was about 2.5-3 feet:





That is a BRP on the track - the track was made out of roofing paper and PVC pipe. We would run 2-3 cars on it.


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## harmocy

My garage is 30 x 40 with nothing in it I was thinking the track could be 25 x 30 what do you think about that size???


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## Micro_Racer

That would be bigger than my track!


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## Kevin Cole

Here's a few pics of our club track...Left Turn Raceway in Muncie Indiana.It's in what would be a three car garage.We have room in front of the track to pit 16-20 with ease...biggest turn out has been 28 with 12-15 the norm.We use a robotronics lap counting system and run BRP's,Losi mini Late Models & Mini Sliders,Vendetta touring cars,mini t's,open 18th scale(dominated by 18R's),and our only 10th scale class is Legends.
Our biggest class is BRP's with about 10 right now.

Check it out...


































High-Banked bullring racing at its best...we have a blast on his track.It would remind you of a Martinsville style track with the banking of Bristol.

We're almost finished with a dirt tri-oval outside thats a scale down version of Pocono...with a run line of around 185 feet(it has a 18th scale dirt oval through the middle).

It's all located in a residential area behind a retired gentlemans home.Club membership is a dollar,racing is five and three for more than one class.His wife makes us homemade goodies(cookies,cupcakes,coffee,etc)everyweek for free & assorted sodas for a quarter...out of a icey cooler.

This is how you run a club for the racers and the hobby.No one getting rich here...but plenty of smiles all around.
*We run a special rookie program on saturday morning for the kids...and us guys sneak in some testing/practice.


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## DAVON

VERY NICE.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Mike Clark

*BRppppppp*

I would love to put my BRP truck or car out there. I may need a real hard RF tire like a double orange But i may get my LW greens to hook up.
What kind of weekend racing schedule do you all have?


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## Kevin Cole

I hate to say we only run on Tuesday nights.

Like I mentioned before,we have rookies running on Saturday morning with a small mini t class sometimes.A lot of us get some laps in on Saturday morning just because it's the only time we can other than Tuesdays.

Our dirt oval will run on Saturday afternoons once we get it ready for the season.

If it was in my backyard I would run everyday.

And yes...a hard RF works well.


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## ScottH

Here is a Video of our BRP track. The surface is plywood coated with the "grip" paint. Run line of about 41'.

4 cars is perfect, 5 is a challenge (unless they are very good drivers) 6 is crowded and 10 is insane! We have done 500 lappers with 10 cars, it felt like rush hour.


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang>> any new tips???
Any good chili recipes??


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## sg1

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang>> any new tips???
> Any good chili recipes??


Don't let Tang set up your speed controller, Let Tyler do it.
Borrow batteries for the main.


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## DLS II

Hi, silly question time. Is it really necessary to run a servo saver? I'm planning on using a HS-81MG. Thanks,Don


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## BudBartos

Yes it is even with a metal gear servo. There are still some small gears way inside thet are plastic.


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## DLS II

Shucks, OK thanks Bud. Don


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## BudBartos

So Tang any tips on that slash  :drunk:


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## TangTester

not yet.....working on rebuilding it right now. When out to the track on Saturday, it looks like a fun class to try. I still in my budget for it so all is good.


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## sg1

BudBartos said:


> So Tang any tips on that slash  :drunk:


"slow is fast"


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## martian 710

sg1 said:


> "slow is fast"


But "fast" is more fun!!!:thumbsup::wave:


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## sg1

martian 710 said:


> But "fast" is more fun!!!:thumbsup::wave:


And you break more stuff!!


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## K-5 CAPER

4 weeks in between races, what and when are your ideas for cycling batteries ?


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## TangTester

once a week, discharge not to zero and the charge


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## SHR

Tang, I'm sorry if you have already posted this somewhere on the thread but would please post detailed charger settings for 4 cell 2/3 A & 4 cell AA battery packs? Also how to store them between races? I would really appreciate it, thanks.


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## TangTester

well we haven't run the AAs in a long long time, and we used 6 cell packs. If I remember we charge them around 2.5 amps, I would keep them charge between race days.

As for the 2/3a there are a mixed bag of ideas, but I what I do is charge at 3 amps and discharge around 10amps. Keep them charged between race days. Cycle them a day or two before the race.


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## BudBartos

SG1 >> Any help here You are after all the factory sponsored Team Scream racer :thumbsup:


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## sg1

BudBartos said:


> SG1 >> Any help here You are after all the factory sponsored Team Scream racer :thumbsup:


Tang's answere is good. Keep them charged between races, I try to cycle them once a week if there is a few weeks between races. And use a Tekin tray on them


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang
Any words of wisdom??


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang>> Last race of the summer season, any ideas or new tips???


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## Micro_Racer

Yep - don't choke


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## BudBartos

Take out the guy Your fighting with for points and say sorry :thumbsup: 
Just kidding


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## all4fun

BudBartos said:


> Take out the guy Your fighting with for points and say sorry :thumbsup:
> Just kidding


Yep........ don't choke :woohoo::lol:


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## TangTester

Wow what a season of racing. There was alot of ups and downs this series. I want to thank Bud and Freddie for have us this summer. Thanks to Dave B. and Mirco, they really made me work for this one. I think this was the most nerve racking and enjoyable because of the competition and for the most part some clean racing. I am happy to see some new racing blood which the winter series is looking good. 
Tang


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## BudBartos

Way to go 15 time BRP racing champion :thumbsup:


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## K-5 CAPER

And most respected racer also


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## BudBartos

Indeed !!!!!!!!!!!!


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## BudBartos

Tang >> Now that You have lots of spare time any new tips :thumbsup:


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## TangTester

yes when picking a job stay away from engineering!!!!!


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## K-5 CAPER

When charging batteries, what does the final voltage number tell you or indicate?


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## BudBartos

K-5 CAPER said:


> When charging batteries, what does the final voltage number tell you or indicate?


I have found the lower peak voltage packs abe faster.


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang
Could it be a tip to see where your radio batteries are at prior to starting a 10 minute main??


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## TangTester

Yeah that was a close one.....They went dead as I cross the finish line and the radio shut off. That was a first for me. The beepping the last 5 mins was not fun either.


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## BudBartos

Best thing ever would have been Me dumping with 3 min to go and crawling around the track. Tang getting a 5 lap lead then His radio batts dump and looses all control and I have just enought time to catch Him and win :thumbsup: 
That would have been classic 

It came real close to happening


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## ghoulardi

*Lol*

Almost as funny as Slow Don leading and then whackin the board on the last lap !


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## Donald Deutsch

Oh yea I'm still laughing, boo hoo.


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## Easy

Donald Deutsch said:


> Oh yea I'm still laughing, boo hoo.





ghoulardi said:


> Almost as funny as Slow Don leading and then whackin the board on the last lap !


At least he wasn't rubber side up 3 times!!!!!
"Up side down" Don


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## zr600efi

I have the newest brp and just got it put together and raced it once. I had a lot of problems rolling in the corners. I'm going to try some spacers under the servo mount, and see what that does. If that doesn't help i'm going to take out some steering throw. I have the double orange front tires and single blue tires in the rear same as the ones in the kit. Have the stock car body without the wing on. This is on a road coarse carpet. We use jack the gripper traction compound. I like it so far just need to get it to corner better.


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## BudBartos

Try cleaning the tires each run with lighter fluid to remove the sticky build up. Cut way down on the tire sauce. Try 1/2 on inside edges of rears and 1/4 inside edges on fronts. Take out some steering through and if You can put some negetive expotential in so the initial steering is slower. Then You can try super glue on the sidewalls of the fronts and maybe even the rears. The Purple rears have less bite than the kit blues and 380B fronts have less than the 380HB that came in your kit.
Hope this helps.


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang tip #61734 >> make sure your receiver plugs are in the right location so the steering wheel doesn't become your throttle !!


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## BudBartos

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang tip #61734 >> make sure your receiver plugs are in the right location so the steering wheel doesn't become your throttle !!


:tongue::tongue::tongue: I still think You should have run it like that :thumbsup:


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## TangTester

Hmmm the new year and I no new tips.....


Here one... if you have a big lead on second place....don't allways go for the pass of slow traffic. Wait see what they do... I know I have loss a few races by trying to pass slowing cars when I don't have too.


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## RCRacer00

Looking for tips on the front king pins. No matter what i use for lube, it doesn't seam to help. The steering blocks bind. I was thinking of trying differant steering blocks maybe something from a 1/12th scale car. Any Ideas? 

What tires are guys using to run on ozite carpet? Track is 35'x18' flat with about a 50' runline.


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## BudBartos

RCRacer00 said:


> Looking for tips on the front king pins. No matter what i use for lube, it doesn't seam to help. The steering blocks bind. I was thinking of trying differant steering blocks maybe something from a 1/12th scale car. Any Ideas?
> 
> What tires are guys using to run on ozite carpet? Track is 35'x18' flat with about a 50' runline.


Use BRP #7460 silicone lube.Do not use any kind of diff paste on king pins or on 1/18th diff, use 7460 for both. For rear damper plates use 100 weight shock oil. The steering blocks are 1/12th. Tires blue fronts and blue rears. It's 95% the sauce. Our track is pretty low bite I do full rears and tune the fronts about 3/4 inside edge of right and 1/4 to 1/2 inside edge left, inside meaning towards chassis.We use Niftech tire sauce.


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## RCRacer00

Thanks Bud, Hopefully I'll have time to try that out tonight.


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## ecoastrc

Mike first off I put the king pins in my dremal and run them in and out of the steering blocks. Then I polish the king pins Smooth as a babys a!!. Just like we did on the pan cars. I use Buds lube on the king pins. And use spring buckets on the top and bottom of the springs not just the top this keeps the spring centered on the king pin which will help prevent bind. You also wont need the spacers in there as well. Blues on the fronts for my stock cars and double orange or single orange on my Mod. (4200 kv 1900 2s Lipo) I found that the 100wt on the center damper was to thick for my stock car but perfect for my Mod. I use 30wt for our track on my stock car. But I will say we all had to change it when we ran with Bud at his track. Our Track is a high bite. So tire sauce was only needed when temp changes to the track was there. For example This past Sat. I sauced up with Paragon one time for practice and never put on any for the rest of the day. And I know for a fact Bob did the same. But cleaning the build up off the tires is a must. The best thing I found to use was Zippo lighter fluid. I would also rotate my tires after every race weekend. My guess is your track is alot like ours High bite and close turns. Buds track at Freddies Is close to Rc Maddness. This is what we found that works best at our track.

We are planing on making a trip up. But maybe you can come on down this Thurs or Sat. Its the last club race of the season before we go out side dirt oval. $5.00 a race and I have rounded up some Transponders Just need numbers of how many are coming. And If you come early I will be willing to help out anyone with set ups and front ends.


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang you have a pm


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang how much tape do you put on the underside of your chassis??

Also how late should you show up for a race???


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## Magz02

zr600efi said:


> I have the newest brp and just got it put together and raced it once. I had a lot of problems rolling in the corners. I'm going to try some spacers under the servo mount, and see what that does. If that doesn't help i'm going to take out some steering throw. I have the double orange front tires and single blue tires in the rear same as the ones in the kit. Have the stock car body without the wing on. This is on a road coarse carpet. We use jack the gripper traction compound. I like it so far just need to get it to corner better.


At our track that corner rolling issue was solved by going to a lower viscosity center damper fluid. Free up the center damper with fluid, to sticky/thick and it wont do it's intended job correctly. Movement is slowed by thick oil causing the R/R to actually run on outside edge thus throwing car into role.
Most EVERY driver at our track use a 30W. shock oil with excellent results.
Hope this helps you out?!!:thumbsup:
(keep in mind, this is oval.. I'm not a road coarse driver but I believe the same theory can apply?)


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## BudBartos

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang how much tape do you put on the underside of your chassis??
> 
> Also how late should you show up for a race???


What ???? 

5:05


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - how about a tip on gearing - you seem to have it figured out


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## TangTester

The biggest thing with gearing is to make your car quiet!!!!!!! The classes that we have set up are set to limit the speed. So in theory everyone has the same power and speed. So anything that binds or creates friction will slow your car. So checking the gear and replacing them when wore will make you faster. Gear mesh is one thing I will spend time setting, during practice I will adjust based on how the car sounds. It hard to explain but it something I have done for years. If you do notice the fastest cars will be the quietest! As far as my setup, I research into different manufactures and found something that I have been running the last couple of races. It seems good, Bud was looking into it now. Just remember a gear from one company may not work with a gear from another.


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## BudBartos

A tip from Tang !!!! Must have beat BUD


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## K-5 CAPER

Bud,
He makes his car quiet.... What do we have to do to make HIM quiet??:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## K-5 CAPER

Tang,

What percentage of your expodential do you have on your steering??

Talked to James about this, he has good ideas, perhaps you two should discuss this at the next race :thumbsup:


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## BudBartos

K-5 CAPER said:


> Tang,
> 
> What percentage of your expodential do you have on your steering??
> 
> Talked to James about this, he has good ideas, perhaps you two should discuss this at the next race :thumbsup:


 
Now thats a tip


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## lephturn

What happened to the tang miesters thread?


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## TangTester

he has been on vacation. Have not had any tips ideas lately.


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## lephturn

Just wanted to make sure the tang was still alive and well.

:thumbsup:


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## BudBartos

Tang was sighted recently at Steak and Shake having a mint milk shake seem ther was a major victory earlier in the day


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## lephturn

Mmmmmmm Steak n Shake.... I would give my right arm for one within 200 miles from Albany. May pick up and move to BRP country.


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## Donald Deutsch

Come on down, but don't forget your boat.:wave:


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## lephturn

Ahh now were talkin. I have a 32' pontoon w/ sleeping and bathroom facilities, 17' fishing boat, 4 kayaks and a canoe. All set in the boat area. I would definitely need flood insurance from the rain you guys have gotten.


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - how about a new tip for the summer series?!?


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## jamesj

BudBartos said:


> I have found the lower peak voltage packs abe faster.


lower peak voltage?


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## Micro_Racer

Tang - How did you gain 2 tenths in your LiPo car overnight at the Mini Darlington track?


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## TangTester

new tires allways help.........friday i was at 5.4s only ine or two saturday i had alot of them


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## martian 710

Micro_Racer said:


> Tang - How did you gain 2 tenths in your LiPo car overnight at the Mini Darlington track?


HE CHEATS!!!!!!:devil::lol::jest::tongue::wave:


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## BudBartos

He sat next to the BRP garage. I kept a eye on Him Tires and sauce :thumbsup:


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## all4fun

Hey Tang.......I got a good tip for running in the BRP Open Oval Class........don't put a 1/10th scale OffRoad wing on a wedge body........:wave:  :thumbsup: :tongue:


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## TangTester

dont run a race with a bent axle.....handling not so good


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## BudBartos

Your all just lucky I didn't run !!! I would have had the bigger wing.


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## jamesj

how can i stop my car from rolling over in turns


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## Micro_Racer

First look at your front tires, if they are worn, "marshmallow", or un glued it is time for a new set! Next use less tire traction or try putting a few shims on the front springs.


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## TangTester

jamesj said:


> how can i stop my car from rolling over in turns


Try drag racing!!!!:thumbsup:

Also make sure the rear of the car is free and have nothing binding the movement


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## BudBartos

jamesj said:


> how can i stop my car from rolling over in turns


Run Your LTO


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## sg1

jamesj said:


> how can i stop my car from rolling over in turns


New tires. (old ones get too soft)
Less stearing throw
Less tire sauce
Glue right front tire sidewall
eliminate droop in the front springs, add a shim to the RF spring.
keep the body as low as possible
Drive smooth
Less RF camber


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## jamesj

BudBartos said:


> Run Your LTO


my LTO ??????


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## jamesj

ok left turn only chassie ok thats the brp but also the rapture was also rolling over


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## K-5 CAPER

I tie a 50 pound weight to the back of my car to to the roll overs


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## K-5 CAPER

also an old big mac box as a rear spoiler will hold that rear end more stable


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## TangTester

K-5 CAPER said:


> also an old big mac box as a rear spoiler will hold that rear end more stable


Sound like girl I once knew LOL


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## xxfile

we have noticied uneven tire wear I do believe it is tweak induced by my battery hold down twisting the chassis so I have switched to velcro...
we run road course in both directions equally and the rear passenger side and drives side front wore noticable more than the others however i was still getting fast lap for the nite most times. maybe it was better closkwise than CCwise but didnt track that stat.HMMM maybe im onto something here.
Does anyone lathe their foams for doing LTO events just wondering?


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## matthew_z

Is there an alternative to using a drill? Is it just too dang tedious to do by hand? Not so sure I trust the cheapo drill in the storeroom. If all else fails, can borrow a decent drill or dremel later - gave my Dremel to my nephew last year! Ugh. 

Cheers,
Matthew Z


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## yamahahaha

*tweak*

what is the best set up for a flat oval 35x12
any help would be great 
thanks


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