# featherlite weedeater trimmer



## cajunh2s

hey gang

was wondering if you guys could help me find out what type of carburator i have on this gas 2 cycle trimmer..its a
2002 18cc-em featherlite trimmer
model....featherlite 711334
serial # 023552N-700990-4
2pwes-0183TZ
type #4

the only thing i can see on the carb is zama made in china....can't find any identification numbers on this carb...unless they are hidden and i'm not looking in the right spot...

same ole story..ran great one week then, wouldn't crank....after digging into it found the fuel lines was really soft going to primer(ordering new fuel lines)...primer wouldn't get hard from pumping...it may be the only problem but figured i'd overhaul the carb while it was down....also before pulling the tank i changed the plug...the old plug had a little spark....new plug has plenty spark...it still wouldn't fire up..

i've heard that most folks just throw away these little green poulan trimmers once they start acting up...but i feel its a shame to trash something if there is still hope it can run again...what you guys think?

cajun


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## blackwell_316

go to www.sears.com and go to parts. and type in the word featherlite as your model #. then look for the one that says type 4. i hope this helps


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## geogrubb

Go to www.zamacarb.com then select service/aftermarket, you will find lots of info. The numbers and carb type you are looking for are on the carb, just hard to find. Have a good one. Geo


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## cajunh2s

thanks guys
with the zama website that was posted...i was able to figure out were the model numbers was...cleaning all the crud off the carb didn't hurt either...lol

so i've ordered a repair kit for the C1U zama carb, and i''ll post back if it runs after the kit is installed..

tearing into the carb i found the diaphragm and gaskets had a sandy grit to them...and kinda wrinkled...could be the cause of my problems....

again thanks to all the great small engine techs on the board here

cajun


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## geogrubb

When you install the new kit, use the metering arm that was already in the carb as it will have the proper height. The metering arms can be real touchy some times without the proper guage. Have a good one. Geo


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## cajunh2s

well...got my weedeater parts in..and inbetween work and other honey-do's around the house..i finally got my carb and the rest of the weedeater together again..

after about 8 pulls she fired off....and i started cutting some well needed trimming around the yard..

but after running about 5 minutes she died....then would crank back up again..
i noticed everytime it died my primer bulb would be empty of fuel....so it looks like i have a fuel delivery problem..

something i think i need to research is...the two fuel lines in tank...one is longer than the other...i noticed this when i was disasembling it...the shorter one didn't seem to go into the fuel...i figured it was a return line of sorts....and i cut it the same length as the old one so i'm a little puzzled on this...

the longer fuel line is the one with the filter submerged in fuel...so it seems to be good..

the only thing i can think of is...its still burning carb cleaning fluid out the system
i have no air compressor.....or its the metering system....geo said not to mess with it
but i'm hard headed and had to see if i could put it back together again with all new parts....lol
this was my first carb overhaul....i was very pleased to see it even run after i finished with it....lol

cajun


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## geogrubb

Told ya so, na na na na na na. Put the old metering arm in or get the Zama tool part # ZT1. Have a good one. Geo


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## cajunh2s

geo
can you stear me to wear i can find this zama gauge tool?...i went to zama.com but looks like I can't order from the website...it says to find your nearest zama distributor and i still didn't see it on their site.... so i'm going to go to an online parts supplier i've been dealing with M&D Mower in ohio and see if they list the #ZT1 on their site....if they have it...i'm ordering it...i know i'll need it..for this unit and others

so its got to be the metering system sucking the primer dry correct?....no way its the fuel lines?.....forgive me but like i said i'm hard headed and i am determined to figure out how all these components work together.....i only mention fuel lines cause i' was a little concerned about the larger fuel line not reaching any fuel like its a return line....do you think this bigger line should be in fuel?.....the smaller fuel line is connected to the filter in the bottom of the tank..so i know thats the main source of fuel for the carb...cause its filtering the fuel...so that one makes sense to me...lol

if someone could explain to me the purpose of the larger line...i would love to know...if its not a return fuel line....maybe its just a vent line of sorts for the primer bulb?....i'm yet to run across this in any of my studies so far...i'm looking forward to it, if its covered in my books....lol

cajun


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## 30yearTech

It's a return line, the primer is really a purge pump. It's meant to deliver fuel to the carburetor and purge out any air, thus you can pump it endlessly without flooding your carburetor. It simply circulates fuel from the tank to the carburetor and back to the fuel tank again.

It's not the the metering lever that's causing your primer to go dry, most likely its a leaking check valve that is letting the fuel out. It would also be a good idea to check the fuel filter in the tank as well.

I mostly agree with geo on his posts, but I can't really say I agree 100% with using the old metering lever when rebuilding a carburetor, unless the carburetor has had little use and needs a rebuild from sitting up. The metering lever is subject to quite a bit of wear, both on the contact point between the metering diaphragm and lever as well as the fulcrum point on the pin. This wear can cause the carburetor to run lean as this wear limits the lift of the inlet needle, unless the arm is adjusted to compensate for the wear.

I have the special tools and gauges for most of the carburetors but I can't remember the last time I used the gauge to set the metering lever. I usually just set them even with the lower carburetor body and they work just fine.


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## geogrubb

I agree with 30year all the time, almost. The C1U,C1Q,C1M,C3A,C3M,C1S and M7 are flush, the C1,C1S,C2,C2S,C3 are not.

Per Zama:
Adjusting the metering lever. The Zama "Z" gauge is designed to adjust all models. Hold the gauge against the body as shown using the proper side designated for the model you are adjusting. The end of the metering lever should touch the gauge. A strait edge can also be used as described on the next page.
(A) If the metering lever is the same as Figure a in the following schematic, place a straight edge or Zama Z gauge across the carburetor body. The free end of the metering lever should be 0 to 0.3 mm - 0 to 0.012" below the straight edge.
(B) If the metering lever is the same as Figure b in the following schematic, the free end of the metering lever should be flush with the cavity floor. (1.7mm to 2.0 mm - 0.067" to 0.078" below the metering gasket flange of carburetor body).


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## 30yearTech

Well geo I agree, it does matter how you set it depending on which specific carburetor you are working on(cavity floor vs gasket flange). 

However the setting is still technically flush, just depends on which reference point you use to measure from. Given that all the measurement ranges start at "0" and range from 0.3mm to .012" then "flush" or "level" would be an acceptable setting. It will either be flush with the gasket flange or the cavity floor, and you can deviate from this setting as much as previously listed. While the gauge may make it easier to set the lever "flush" with the cavity floor, it can also be done with a small straight edge that will fit within the cavity of the carburetor.

Was not trying to ruffle any feathers Geo, just offering another opinion. I have actually taken carburetors apart that the metering lever was worn paper thin at the point where the diaphragm contacted the lever and would not recommend reusing a lever that had a lot of wear. I do reuse the spring all the time unless the kit supplies a new one for the specific model carburetor I am servicing.

I would also recommend checking the price of the replacement carburetor before purchasing a kit, some carburetors are low enough in price to just replace rather then repair. Many of the newer rotary valve carburetors develop wear in the ramp areas that the valve is not lifted up enough and they run lean, installing a kit will not repair them.


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## cajunh2s

30 year and geo

thanks so much for the replies to this post guy's....i hope to have as much knowledge of small engines one day as you fine fellows do..

30 year mentioned the fuel filter in tank...when i ordered the carb kits i ordered a new one to come with carb parts....so filter should be in good shape in tank...unless defective.

here's how i went back together with carb...if i made any bad moves on rebuild please let me know...i love to learn

rebuilt carb.....changed all gasket's and diaphrams sprayed carb cleaner in all orifices i could fine and let dry..

changed spring, metering lever pin and needle valve on metering system.....needle valve had visble signs of wear...kinda shaved down on one end...

going back together of metering system....that was fun lol...tweezers was a life saver.
i also had noticed zama has a z gauge to put on top of the metering arm to mash the arm in position before tightning the pin screw.....i didn't have this gauge so i used the flat edge of a butter knife...opposite side of cutting side....layed straight across carb body to try and get level....not correct tool but figured it was better than nothing...lol

geo mentioned this carb tool as #ZT1......i looked around on the internet and the only one i could find that came close was a zama carb repair tool kit# ZTK 101....gotta check with geo and see if thats it....it may include the z gauge with it...

so anyways...i got it back together and it will run for maybe 5 minutes and shut off hard...like hitting the kill switch on it...primer bulb dry on every shut down...

30 year mentioned this could be a check valve.....i reviewed the parts list of the C1U and the check valves i'm seeing is under the welch plug would this be correct 30 year?
i didn't mess with this part of the carb...because i read i could mess up some gas ports....so i was kinda leary of pulling the welch plug...so it sounds like i may have too pull the welch plug on the carb after all...

thanks for making this a great thread guys....looking forward to your responce

cajun


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## 30yearTech

If it shuts down like you turned the switch off, you might want to test the spark immediately after this happens. It may be another problem independent of the carburetor, if it runs good for 5 minutes then the carburetor should be alright, the primer bulb does not have to be full of fuel for the engine to run.


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## geogrubb

30year, no feathers ruffled whatsoever, you know much more about this stuff than I do, I learn from you.
cajun, I checked with the local distributor here and was told you will need to have your local small engine shop order it for you. It's about a $2.00 item.


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## geogrubb

cajun, M&D parts has it for $1.02, however there is $3.99 shipping.
http://www.m-and-d.com/ZA-ZT-1.html
Have a good one. Geo


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## cajunh2s

geo....ordered the zama carb tool a couple of days ago and it should be here soon...lord willing i will have it on hand for any future carb jobs....

and something that's kinda funny..after i ordered the carb tool was checking the spark like 30 year suggested after it killed....and noticed the parts supplier sold me a CS-45 spark plug instead of a RCJ-6Y plug like i asked for.... I didn't even notice when i set the gap on it that the plug was wrong.......so i had an old RCJ-6Y and put it in the weedeater....now it runs and don't die.......lol

cajun


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## geogrubb

That's great, wonder why you were given the other plug in my searches it isn't a cross referenced plug. Have a good one. Geo


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## cajunh2s

Geo

i bought the weedeater plugs while i was at a snapper dealer in my home town getting some snapper parts....the dealer ship is family owned and operated....one of the family members that work the counter is a 80 year old woman who's husband started the snapper dealership....guess who picked my plugs out......lol....i wish her grandson would have waited on me....lol

cajun

cajun


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