# Bleaching/Unfading Slot Car Bodies



## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

I thought I read some where in the past that slot car bodies could be bleached/unfaded a using blacklight as well as peroxide. Can anybody give me information on using a blacklight since I don't want to remove the decals? I was also wondering if the blacklight would fade the decals and/or would it still remove the yellowing if I have the body turn upside down? Also, what if any effect would it hve on the chrome?


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

What it does is reduce yellowing from sunlight. You can use sunlight or fluorescent lights (no need for black light) with the body in Hydrogen Peroxide. I've had great success with tjets and most AFX cars. Can't speak for other stuff. 

Make sure to take off chrome. Decals will most likely fail. Don't over expose (in other words check it every hour or so) as it may impact AFX paint. Tjets seem bulletproof and i have never had their paint affected.

Seems to work best with white. Sometimes causes chalking in darker cars or cars with significant sun damage.


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

So, do I still have to put the body in peroxide even if I use a black light?


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

Never heard of using a black light


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

So if I use the flourescent light do I have to still put it in peroxide?


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## hojoe (Dec 1, 2004)

sjracer said:


> So if I use the flourescent light do I have to still put it in peroxide?


YES. peroxide in a sunny window works too. Peroxide is the key.
hojoe


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## sjracer (May 25, 2008)

Thanks, I guess there's no way to save the stickers.


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

SJR, I have the same situation at the moment with a number of yellowed bodies. I bought the peroxide months ago but still have not taken the plunge for fear of trashing the paintwork on some of them. I've read so much about the peroxide method that I have no doubt that it works, there's just no rule book.

Right now my thinking is this..... bodies with stickers in good condition will be held off for now. Those with stickers that are completely trashed/faded/torn/re-applied/half curled up will probably be my test subjects. Reproduction stickers are available from _Wayne's AFX Slot Car Sticker Reproductions_.

Thoughts from serious collectors please........ does a body with trashed, original stickers attract more interest than one with reproduction stickers? Assume the body condition is equal on both. Thanks.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

Jisp said:


> Thoughts from serious collectors please........ does a body with trashed, original stickers attract more interest than one with reproduction stickers? Assume the body condition is equal on both. Thanks.
> 
> Cheers,
> Michael. :thumbsup:


I've been selling for awhile and I don't see much difference in value for garden variety cars for sticker condition - old and crappy, missing, or replica's from Wayne - the values seem close. Different bidders make for more variance than the condition of stickers. I think the value added by buying new stickers is about the same as the cost of the stickers for common cars. 

For big ticket cars I don't have enough data to give an opinion.

Tom


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

OXIDE!

.... is the key word here. Oxidation is what kills slot cars over time. 

The peroxide treatment is a restoration tool. Try to think of it as the slot car equivalent of a chemical skin peel. Just because a little is good, prolonged unmonitored exposure IS detrimental. Like anything else, perhaps it's best to experiment on a beater so that the nuances of the process are revealed... rather than irradiating on your prized G-plus shelf queen. 

The death of cheesy cardboard stickers is a given, ya just have to get over that part. The model has to be CLEAN of sticker glue, grease, dirt or any other film that can block the chemical process. If not, then the result may not be uniform or look mottled.

Not sure whats so hard about about plopping a clean slot car body in a little clear bowl of hydrogen peroxide, setting it on a window sill and carefully monitoring it for a while. Theres no need for florescent, black lights, lasers or cyclotrons. :freak:

It just takes a bit longer if it's not particularly sunny. :thumbsup: 

Bob "the Tom" Woodly is spot on. The treatment is simple other than it must be monitored. Adult supervision is required. It's not a magic wand. :tongue:


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Thanks for the info Tom.

Sjracer, what did you decide to do?

Bill, sounds as though you've taken the dunk on a few occasions. Was there ever any reaction between the peroxide and factory paint on a body or factory chromed parts?

Thanks for sharing any experience gents.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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