# Husqvarna Model 61



## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

First, I would like to say hi (this is my forst time submitting to the forum) to all, and thanks in advance for all the help.

Now, on to my problem. I have a Model 61 Husqvarna chainsaw. The saw starts and runs good for about 15 minutes and then it will just die. It will start back up but the performance is terrible and it stalls out after a few seconds. I have cleaned out the exhaust, replaced the fuel filter, spark plug, and put new gas in. None of these fixed the problem.

I was reading in the forum where the compression could be an issue but I don’t what the specs are for the compression test. I am assuming that the test has to be done twice, when the motor is cold and when the motor is hot? 

Are there any other areas that I should look at?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, the saw still has lots of life and I would hate to get rid of it.


Scott


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## andybcumming112 (Apr 11, 2009)

I would say your compression should be at least 100. Prefer 110


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I would guess one of two problems. First it is running lean and overheating. Second is an air leak is developing once it warms up. It could also be a defective ign. coil that is intermittent when warm.... but this is least likely.


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

*Husky 61 reply*

I checked the compression last night. Being the novice that i am, i checked the compression when it was cold and after it quit running.

Cold: after 3 pulls the compession was 95
Hot: After 3 pulls the compression was 92

If its a carb issue I will bring it in. I have problems when i start messing around with them. Engines dont run afterward:tongue:

Another question, does the gas cap act as a air release for the tank? I was told that might be an issue too.

thanks for all the help so far.


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

Another thought... IF the saw is running lean the spark plug should be a light grey or brown color right? How hot is hot? I ran the saw last night and it didnt seem to get that hot, but you guys are the experts.


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

The compression on this saw needs to be above 125,to 140psi.When you put the compression tester hose in,that now is an extension of the combustion chamber,so that's why you need to pull until the needle stabilizes to get your true reading.Forget about the number of pulls.Pulling the muffler to inspect the piston,cylinder is always the best way to rule out lean seizure problems.It's normal for the compression reading to be lower when the engine's warm,vs.cold.


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

thanks.. I will try that when i get home tonight.


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

ossaguy said:


> The compression on this saw needs to be above 125,to 140psi.When you put the compression tester hose in,that now is an extension of the combustion chamber,so that's why you need to pull until the needle stabilizes to get your true reading.Forget about the number of pulls.Pulling the muffler to inspect the piston,cylinder is always the best way to rule out lean seizure problems.It's normal for the compression reading to be lower when the engine's warm,vs.cold.


I checked the compression and its stabalized jsut over 130psi. I also checked the piston and the cylinder and they look good. 

When i pulled the plug to check the compression and it is black, and you can smell the gas. Do you think this requires a rebuild or can I adjust the carburator?


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

It's good that the top end is ok! The plug being black is from running rich.I believe the max no load rpms on that saw is 12000,it would be nice if you had a tach to see where it's at.Any chance that you have a buildup of fine sawdust thats gotten into the metering diaphram cover,thru the vent hole? I've seen that happen a lot,and it pushes on the lever,since it fills the airspace between the cover and diaphram,and will flood it.(Dull chains are the culprit if that's the case,as instead of large chips,you get lots of really fine dust)
When it dies,what does it take to restart it? Does it have to cool down? Does it act flooded? Does it sound like it's missing,when it starts running bad? Sorry for all the questions,but trying to find out if it's an ignition problem,or fuel related.It's possable that if the plugs wet,it could have lost its spark,like if the coil was failing after it's hot.
Steve


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

ossaguy said:


> It's good that the top end is ok! The plug being black is from running rich.I believe the max no load rpms on that saw is 12000,it would be nice if you had a tach to see where it's at.Any chance that you have a buildup of fine sawdust thats gotten into the metering diaphram cover,thru the vent hole? I've seen that happen a lot,and it pushes on the lever,since it fills the airspace between the cover and diaphram,and will flood it.(Dull chains are the culprit if that's the case,as instead of large chips,you get lots of really fine dust)
> When it dies,what does it take to restart it? Does it have to cool down? Does it act flooded? Does it sound like it's missing,when it starts running bad? Sorry for all the questions,but trying to find out if it's an ignition problem,or fuel related.It's possable that if the plugs wet,it could have lost its spark,like if the coil was failing after it's hot.
> Steve


Okay here are your answers and some more questions:
1. No, i dont have a tach, but if you think it can help i will buy one.
2. What is the metereing diaphram and where exactly can i find it?
a. I did clean do a thorogh cleaning of the saw last night but i was unable to run it. Didnt want to anger the neighbors.
3. When it dies,what does it take to restart it? Well, it starts right back usually but you have to be on the throttle because it wont idle any more.
4. Does it have to cool down? No, it doesn't have to cool down but its not running any where near 100%. The saw never seems to get to full throttle.
5. Does it sound like it's missing,when it starts running bad? No, it doesn't act like its its missing. Its sounds like its being bogged down from getting too much fuel. To be completely honest I dont know what to listen for. 

I hope this answers all your questions

Scott


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

Looking at a parts list on a 61,I see that on that model of tillotsen carb,the metering side is on the bottom,so the chances are of sawdust buildup is nil,since it can't collect there.It does sound like it's flodding.The best troubleshooting tool is a pressure gauge made for small engines,that you can hook up the the gas line,and putting 6 psi in,will tell if the flooding is from a leaky needle and seat,or maybe an internal problem like a leaking welch plug,things like that.
Probably the best thing to do is to take it to a pro Husky dealer that you trust will do it right,and have either the carb overhauled,or replaced.If you don't have the right tools or knowledge on it,it can end up costing more in the long run sometimes.Lean setup/running mistakes can ruin the engine in just a matter of minutes,that's why we made it a rule to not include that tiny carb mixture screwdriver with a new saw......
I hope some of this helps,hope it turns out good for you,too.
Steve


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

Steve,

Thanks for all the help. It sounds like I need to bring it in. I not going to do a tear down of the carb.

Scott


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

Steve,

I just wanted to let you and everone else that helped me with my saw issue that i fixed it. Apparently a good cleaning and a little carb adjustment will do an engine good.

thanks again for the help


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

*More help required*

Ok i thought i had the saw fixed but that is not the case. Now the saw runs really good until it gets hot. Once hot it dies and will not start until the saw cools down. It was mentioned that the ignition coil/module could be bad. Can i test this? 

Is there something else i need to check? 

When i was trying to restart the saw it flooded so i know its getting gas.

thank you in advace for any help


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Use a spark tester to see if it has spark when it is hot.


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

Wallers said:


> Ok i thought i had the saw fixed but that is not the case. Now the saw runs really good until it gets hot. Once hot it dies and will not start until the saw cools down. It was mentioned that the ignition coil/module could be bad. Can i test this?
> 
> Is there something else i need to check?
> 
> ...


After it dies and you test for spark using a spark tester,if it shows no spark,unhook the kill wire on the coil,that the switch connect to.If it still has none,if you have a good ohms meter,take a reading between the cylinder and the coil lamination to insure that it's like .000 ohms.It has to have a perfect ground reading.If it doesn't,take out the 2 allen screws that attach the coil,and scrape the mounting bosses and lamination,then retest it after resettiing the airgap to I believe it's .008.Our Echo service manager is always stressing the poor ground thing.He says that a large amount of recalled coils are from that,although I've always found the coil just to be bad after doing those tests.I do make sure I scrape the contact surfaces when installing a new one,too.Thought I'd pass these tips on.
Steve


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

Okay, i ran the saw last night and sure enough it died. The thing is, it took a long time. I ran the saw for a good 45 minutes. Anyway, i dont have a plug tester, but i did take the plug out and i didnt see any spark. I then took the recoil off and examined the coil and module. First thing that i noticed was the wires. Specifically the yellow wire, it was slit in a few areas. The second thing i noticed was both wires were fraid or missing insulation going into the coil. Thirdly, there was a loose screw that holds yellow wires to the chassis. 

I adjusted the coil to the metioned spec, put it all back together and ran it. It still seems to be acting up, but i dont think i ran it long enough for a good test. I didnt ohm out the coil. I forgot about until this morning. i can test that next time it dies.

Could this cause the saw to overheat. While i was cutting the saw got really hot. It kept on kicking the brake on (or out) while i was cutting. I dont know if this has anything to do with the above, but I am at ropes end. 

Typically, what goes bad first? Coil or module?


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## StigH (Mar 22, 2009)

I own a similar chain saw, a model 60.
There are still carb gasket sets available from Husqvarna


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

Wallers said:


> Okay, i ran the saw last night and sure enough it died. The thing is, it took a long time. I ran the saw for a good 45 minutes. Anyway, i dont have a plug tester, but i did take the plug out and i didnt see any spark. I then took the recoil off and examined the coil and module. First thing that i noticed was the wires. Specifically the yellow wire, it was slit in a few areas. The second thing i noticed was both wires were fraid or missing insulation going into the coil. Thirdly, there was a loose screw that holds yellow wires to the chassis.
> 
> I adjusted the coil to the metioned spec, put it all back together and ran it. It still seems to be acting up, but i dont think i ran it long enough for a good test. I didnt ohm out the coil. I forgot about until this morning. i can test that next time it dies.
> 
> ...




In my experience,it's almost never the module,but the coil that is at the flywheel.But with the wires in such bad shape between the 2,those have to be repaired right.I collect known-good outer moduels from junker units of the popular models that I work on to use as testing tools,to rule that out as the culprit.I don't have one for a 61 in the box that I could borrow you,though.Dang.
That sure sounds strange about the overheating.How does it seem like it's overheating? I have never come across an overheating problem that would be making the brake engage.Sometimes,if one or more of the rubber anti-vibe mounts (between the tank/handle assy and the engine)break,it gets so floppy that the jerking back and forth makes the brake engage when it hits your left hand.When you cock it back,does it snap back at just the slightest tap? If it does,it may have a buildup of sawdust inside the brake sidecover,keeping it from getting fully cocked.Gosh,I hope you get this mystery solved!

Take care,
Steve


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

ossaguy said:


> In my experience,it's almost never the module,but the coil that is at the flywheel.But with the wires in such bad shape between the 2,those have to be repaired right.I collect known-good outer moduels from junker units of the popular models that I work on to use as testing tools,to rule that out as the culprit.I don't have one for a 61 in the box that I could borrow you,though.Dang.
> That sure sounds strange about the overheating.How does it seem like it's overheating? I have never come across an overheating problem that would be making the brake engage.Sometimes,if one or more of the rubber anti-vibe mounts (between the tank/handle assy and the engine)break,it gets so floppy that the jerking back and forth makes the brake engage when it hits your left hand.When you cock it back,does it snap back at just the slightest tap? If it does,it may have a buildup of sawdust inside the brake sidecover,keeping it from getting fully cocked.Gosh,I hope you get this mystery solved!
> 
> Take care,
> Steve


Steve,

You were right about the anti-vibration mounts kicking out the brake. I ordered new ones today. I also ordered a new ignition coil. hopfully this solves all the problems. I will let you what happens.

Thanks for the help


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

ossaguy said:


> In my experience,it's almost never the module,but the coil that is at the flywheel.But with the wires in such bad shape between the 2,those have to be repaired right.I collect known-good outer moduels from junker units of the popular models that I work on to use as testing tools,to rule that out as the culprit.I don't have one for a 61 in the box that I could borrow you,though.Dang.
> That sure sounds strange about the overheating.How does it seem like it's overheating? I have never come across an overheating problem that would be making the brake engage.Sometimes,if one or more of the rubber anti-vibe mounts (between the tank/handle assy and the engine)break,it gets so floppy that the jerking back and forth makes the brake engage when it hits your left hand.When you cock it back,does it snap back at just the slightest tap? If it does,it may have a buildup of sawdust inside the brake sidecover,keeping it from getting fully cocked.Gosh,I hope you get this mystery solved!
> 
> Take care,
> Steve


Steve,

I got my parts in friday. The anti-vibration mounts fixed the brake issue that i was having. I also replaced the coil. The saw has different symptoms now. It will run and just die and it will not start until it cools down. Before i could get it run after it stalled, at least for a little while..... I hate to keep asking questions, but I am determined to get this saw running.

thanks


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## Guest (May 18, 2009)

youve got a carb problem, if i were you i would just spend the 40 bucks and have it rebuilt. besides, having the needles and diaphragms replaceed is Never a bad idea.


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

Wallers said:


> Steve,
> 
> I got my parts in friday. The anti-vibration mounts fixed the brake issue that i was having. I also replaced the coil. The saw has different symptoms now. It will run and just die and it will not start until it cools down. Before i could get it run after it stalled, at least for a little while..... I hate to keep asking questions, but I am determined to get this saw running.
> 
> thanks


I wish you had a spark tester to totally rule that out.You could get a simple one like the Briggs one for not very much,and would come in handly if you do any other equipment. If it's fuel related,you need to find out if it's not getting enough,or too much.If it's flooding, usually letting it sit and cool isn't going to make it restart.Right before it dies,does it speed up momentarily before it quits? If so,if you can quick pull the choke lever out a little,if it revives it then at least you know it's a fuel starving problem.How do you know that it's overheating? Usually when it overheats,it is a too-lean condition and it scores the top end.Do you still have your 130 psi reading?
Sorry for all the questions,when you want answers.....but trying to determine through testing before replacing is always the way to go.Keep in mind that every engine needs 3 basics to run,sorta like the fire triangle. 
1) proper fuel/air mix 2) proper positive and negative compression 
3) Correct ignition voltage at the right time 
Narrowing it down is the key. I hope you get it solved with the help of the guys here.

Take care,Steve


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

ossaguy said:


> I wish you had a spark tester to totally rule that out.You could get a simple one like the Briggs one for not very much,and would come in handly if you do any other equipment. If it's fuel related,you need to find out if it's not getting enough,or too much.If it's flooding, usually letting it sit and cool isn't going to make it restart.Right before it dies,does it speed up momentarily before it quits? If so,if you can quick pull the choke lever out a little,if it revives it then at least you know it's a fuel starving problem.How do you know that it's overheating? Usually when it overheats,it is a too-lean condition and it scores the top end.Do you still have your 130 psi reading?
> Sorry for all the questions,when you want answers.....but trying to determine through testing before replacing is always the way to go.Keep in mind that every engine needs 3 basics to run,sorta like the fire triangle.
> 1) proper fuel/air mix 2) proper positive and negative compression
> 3) Correct ignition voltage at the right time
> ...


I will get a spark tester tonight. 

Fuel: When the saw dies, i try to restart and i can smell the gas, so i think it is getting fuel. If i let the saw sit for 5-10 minutes it will start on the first pull. But...it does not want to stay running. It will bog down for a few seconds then run fine for a short period of time then die again.

It does not speed up just before it dies.

It doesnt seem to be over heating. I dont know why it was runnign so hot before.

If the spark test passes i will just bring it in for the carb overhaul.

thanks,

Scott


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

My guess by your latest report would the carb too.If it is overheating, is there any chance that you were running the saw before with the top cover off? It needs the top cover on to direct the cooling fan air across the cooling fins.Another trivia thing here is does it have the stainless steel allen bolts that hold the carb on? The old service bulletin I have from Husky states that if it's older than a 1985 model,they came out with bolts that greatly reduce the temp of the carb when the saw is shut off.Just a thought,as maybe it's vapor locking.Anyway,the # for the bolts is 503-20-21-08.
I remember my service manager sending a pair to me for a weird running saw and it solved it.I don't know how old yours is.May want to see if your bolts are drawn to a magnet.If they are steel,it woudln't hurt to get the SS ones.
In this same bulletin,they stress how important the airgap of the coil is to be .012, ( which is wider than most other units ) It says there is a huge improvement in hot-starting,after they switched to the wider gap.( I was wrong when I thought it was .008,sorry)
I sure hope you report back after it's problem is discovered.
Take care,
Steve


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

I will regap the coil tonight and run it. I bought a spark tester. I could barely see the light when i did the test. I am going to get a new plug tonight and retest. I have also researched the carb kit. For 11 bucks and a few minutes (there doesn't seem like there are a lot of parts) i can rebuild the carb. 

My saw is an 1989MY, but i will cheeck it out anyway.

If i get this fixed...you will be the first to know.

Thanks again for the help


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## Wallers (Apr 14, 2009)

Steve,

The saw is fixed. I bought the carb rebuild kit and that was the issue. It looked like of the gaskets was bad.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions,

Scott


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## ossaguy (Dec 3, 2008)

Wallers said:


> Steve,
> 
> The saw is fixed. I bought the carb rebuild kit and that was the issue. It looked like of the gaskets was bad.
> 
> ...


Hey,that's great!!!


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