# Hip Tip - T/J From The Ground Up #1



## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

O.K. class, we will building a T/J from the ground up.

First please view the following pages to pick out your chassis. I WOULD SUGGEST THAT YOU PICK ATLEAST 3 TO 4 CHASSIS TO WORK WITH.
One thing I have found is that one part effects the other, then the next part would suck working with the other parts. T-Jets slot cars is a numbers game.

http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ChassisWarping.asp
http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ChassisTJetSecretCombo.asp
http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ChassisRivetTightening.asp
http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ChassisRivets.asp

Please note - the tires will be a later stage, since the chassis could effect them.

After choosing your chassis, take off all parts except the rear axle gear and axle.

Next, on the gear plate, with the gear on, slowly with a pin or your finger nail, turn the gear clockwise. Use a light source to see if the gear is tilted. You should notice if tilted the light will change on the gear. Also, while spinning slowly, notice if the gear is spinning on its axes. What I mean is the pin that holds the gear. Two things to look at.
One is to see if the gear is centered on the pin. Second, see if the gear is out of round. Pick a spot on the gear plate, or make a mark, then spin the gear again. If the gear moves close then far from that point, the the gear is out of round. If tilted, then the light will change shades.
Second, only after the first, use a dremel on the drive pin and shaft. On slow, look to see from the top, to see if the pin in the center of the gear stays in the same point. DO NOT look at the gear just the silver point. As you can see, if one thing is wrong, you need to start again on another piece.

IMPORTANT - Make sure that all the gear plates and rear gears are on the same. Use a tire press to press the gear to a close fit on the plate.
Do this to all the gear plates. 

Please post suggestions and results.

Thanks

Jon
Voxxer


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Part #2*

O.K. now that we have a good chassis with a rear gear that is centered, we need to see if the chassis and gear plate fit.

First, using all good gear plates, try to fit it on the first chassis. You should look for easy fit and how the gear reacts to the axle gear. Using you pin or finger nail, rotate the rear gear. The two gear should rotate with ease. If the spinning stops after you take off your nail, then the mesh is too tight. Do this to all you gear plates to your first chassis. 
Next, do the same to your secong and third chassis with the same good gear plates. You should be able to come up with atleast two to three working chasssis.

Please note that when placing the plate on the chassis you should not have to make any adjustments.

Next take all your center gear and do the same ( ROTATING THEM ) with the rear gear. Rotate them slow and fast to see if the mess.

After that use your chassis and WITHOUT the magnets, place a pinion with the gear plate and motor. Take the best rear and center gears and test each pinion. Yes, you will need to take off the pinion to test each of them. It took me about an hour to test all of them.

When finished you should have free - flowing gears.

After all the testing you hopefully will have two or three working chassis's.

Next which is the fun part, first take 220 then 320 then 400 and finally 1000 grit sand paper and file each tooth on all the gears. When filling DO NOT just go form side to side, try to angle to oneside then the other. You sould be sanding the outsides to make them curved.

Note: On J/L gears use 800 - 1000 then 1500 grit sandpaper.

I hope you all have tons of time, but in the end, it makes all the difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Time To Play in The Mud*

I Hope that you all went out and picked up a tube of Simichrome.

Please note: You should do this tip UNTIL the second Tip on this post has been done!!!!!!!

After you have sand each tooth on all the gears, it's time to play in the mud.

First, use a terminal track that you will not want to use in the furture. Or, if you have a extra power pack, replace the ends with alligator clips.

Get an empty kleenex box. Take out the good motor and replace with a really bad motor!!!!!! Take off the rear wheels.

Place the simichrome all over the gears. Use a controller to regulate the speed. SLOWLY run the car. What you want is to keep the motor running but, not enough to spray off the simichrome. When the simichrome becomes heated, it tends to spray. The kleenex box is to cover the car to catch the spray. With a toothpick keep moving the S/C between the gears. You will have to add S/C from time to time.
This job should be watched at all times. You should listen to the pitch of the motor to notice the S/C working. You might have to keep spinning the rear wheels to get the car going. I Have done this up to a 1/2 an hour. After that, run the car at about 3/4 full speed for about ten minutes.

When finished, remove the motor and all the gears. I throw away the motor. In a closed sink with warm soapy water, clean the parts. The S/C gets everwhere!!!! Use an old toothbrush to scrub each tooth and gear and the chassis. Put back together the car in running condition, oil and test. Use a hair dryer to dry the parts. You should notice an increase in speed and less noise!!!!!!

I would suggest marking the gears that are in each 3 pack set, so when you are working on the car, you can match back up the set of 3. With an exato knife, use roman numerals for each set, ie. I, II, III, IV. On the chassis mark which set belongs to it, since the gear set most likely will not work on another chassis. Mark the set on the side.

Take apart the car again because we have many more Hip Tips to do!!!!

Thanks

Jon


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Motor - Make or Break*

Hi:

Please read the follow links to get the perfect motor for your race car. 
Check out your club rules to see if balancing is allowed!!!!

http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ArmaturesT-jet.asp
http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ArmaturesIntro.asp
http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ArmatureBalancing.asp
http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/ArmatureHandPicking.asp

One thing that I'm learning is that you might have the perfect arm, but when placed in your perfect chassis, the car sucks!!!! The X factor of 3!

The chassis, motor and magnets all effect each other. The only way to test each of the 3 is to exchange all the parts between each other.

Next week we will do the magnets, the last factor of the 3. Then for the most parts the chassis will be done.

Thanks

Jon


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Magnets*

O.k. we will work on the magnets.

I bought this great little item, it is the brp magnet matcher.

http://blake.prohosting.com/horacer/brp/mm.html

If you purchase the MM, get a bad chassis and cut a hole in the middle to place the chassis over the reader. What this does is set an equal distance for all the magnets.

Once you have tested and matched your magnets, place you best pair in your number 2 car and the number 2 magnets in the number one chassis.
I have learned that the magnets with high gauss, will put to much tourqe on the motor. However I always check both ways to see if it makes a difference.

All was schim the back of the magnets to give them a tight fit.

Visit this stie for more info on T-Jets mags. Look under Pancake Magnets.

http://www.scaleracers.com/HopUp/

Well I'm off to Dallas for the Spring Hot Wheels Convention, see ya next week.

Later

Jon


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## Voxxer (Oct 25, 2003)

*Testing the Car*

Hello All:

Well I had a great time in Dallas for the Spring Hot Wheels Nationals!!!

O.K. back to racing!!!!!

Know that you have a chassis and motor and magnets for your race car, now comes the time to test. The car you have built should be the best parts that you have, however, the car still will need to be tweeked. Test each motor with each magnet set in each chassis. If you have a timer that is great, if not, go by the feel. Once you have picked your " A " car start to work on your " B " car. One thing that our club has noticed is that one car would run great on track A but sucks on track B. Always have two cars ready for racing!!!!

Now that you have your " A " car set, start working on the body. Test out as many as possible bodies. The lower and the lightest are the best. Go to Wal-Mart in the office supply section and pick up a digital scale for about $20.00. Remember, at this scale 1 gram is equal to 100 pounds true scale.

Next Week - Wheels

Thanks

Jon


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## LancerLee (Jul 12, 2004)

This is a great post very interesting, this should help out those guys just getting started and some tips to guys that have been in it a while!! Great job!!  

Lee


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## doctorslotcar (Jul 25, 2004)

*Great Stuff At Scaleracers*

THANX. HOW DO I ACCESS YOUR OTHER HTTPs IN THIS ARTICLE. I JUST JOINED SCALERACERS


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## silverbullet146 (Dec 24, 2002)

Hey Slot Car Guys,

I'm using a Parma #499 motor in my 1/18th scale BRP car and need your help in hopping up this motor with brushes, springs and what ever other neat little secrets you can help me with.

Appreciate it very much.

Silver Bullet


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## CORO KID (Jun 23, 2002)

You are sneaking aren`t you,I `ll build you a motor and deliver it,I`ll be on vaction in 2 weeks and I`ll give it to you then.I promise not to tell Jim or Jr you are sneaking around the slotcar boards for motor secrets!!!!!!!!!!YOU CHEAT SO BADLY NOW AND YOU WANT MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
your old pal
Coro Kid


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