# Kawasaki line trimmer



## PhillT (Sep 16, 2015)

Hi all, I have had trouble with this unit since it was just over a year old.

Always the same thing, bigs down under throttle.

I have paid to have it fixed a couple of times, but can't afford that again, so I fitted a new filter in the tank, striped the carby, blew out all the orifices, and it still does not want to run well.
It is a TK6 carby.

I have made a video of it here:-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGu5u1dWPAo&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

PhillT said:


> Hi all, I have had trouble with this unit since it was just over a year old.
> 
> Always the same thing, bigs down under throttle.
> 
> ...


If the carb is adjustable, open the L circuit about 1/4 turn. Have a good one. Geo


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## PhillT (Sep 16, 2015)

geogrubb said:


> If the carb is adjustable, open the L circuit about 1/4 turn. Have a good one. Geo


There is only an idle speed screw, and a "H" adjusting screw, which was under a tamper cover.
The adjustment screw was at the optimal position in the video.

I could be wrong, but isn't the pulsing a clue to something? 
On other 2-strokes I have, like my chainsaw, having the "H" screw too rich or lean doesn't cause pulsing of speed like that.
Cheers.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

PhillT said:


> There is only an idle speed screw, and a "H" adjusting screw, which was under a tamper cover.
> The adjustment screw was at the optimal position in the video.
> 
> I could be wrong, but isn't the pulsing a clue to something?
> ...


Pull or cut the tamper cover off, it's yours now.
Pulsing/surging is usually a lean condition then the engine tries to compensate and creates a rich condition, usual causes can be blockage in fuel circuit or an air leak, in small carbs the diaphram gets stiff and doesn't pump, the pulse port gets clogged, etc. I would suggest opening the H screw 1/4-1/2 turn. Also while it is running spray/dribble carb/brake parts cleaner behind the carb and along the mating surfaces, if the engine tempo changes you have an air leak. Have a good one. Geo


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## PhillT (Sep 16, 2015)

geogrubb said:


> Pull or cut the tamper cover off, it's yours now.
> Pulsing/surging is usually a lean condition then the engine tries to compensate and creates a rich condition, usual causes can be blockage in fuel circuit or an air leak, in small carbs the diaphram gets stiff and doesn't pump, the pulse port gets clogged, etc. I would suggest opening the H screw 1/4-1/2 turn. Also while it is running spray/dribble carb/brake parts cleaner behind the carb and along the mating surfaces, if the engine tempo changes you have an air leak. Have a good one. Geo


The tamper cover is already off, thus my words "was under a tamper cover" 

I have the screw at the position where it runs best now, any richer or leaner and it won't accelerate as well as shown in the video.

All the carby orifices etc have been blown out and are passing compressed air.

I did notice that one gasket that has a soft section, much like a diaphragm, is quite stiff, as are the two "flap valves" part of the gasket.
Are they meant to be quite stiff?
I have some brake cleaner so I'll try that suggestion. You do mean where the carby flange bolts onto the inlet port?
Cheers.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

What is the model number of your Kawasaki trimmer?


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## PhillT (Sep 16, 2015)

*Update:*

The mystery is solved. :thumbsup:
The diaphragm & flap valves had dried out during months of "Dry Storage" of the machine.
24 hours of soaking the carby with fuel in it, and bingo, the diaphragm & valves softened up and it runs like a clock again.
They are obviously supple enough to withstand dry storage while new, but after a few years not so.
It is running fine, but I will fit a carby kit before storage this time, and replace the kit about every 3 years.
Thanks people.:wave:


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

PhillT said:


> The mystery is solved. :thumbsup:
> The diaphragm & flap valves had dried out during months of "Dry Storage" of the machine.
> 24 hours of soaking the carby with fuel in it, and bingo, the diaphragm & valves softened up and it runs like a clock again.
> They are obviously supple enough to withstand dry storage while new, but after a few years not so.
> ...


Which brings you to canned-fuel mix. All major name-brand OEMs now sell canned fuel mix. It's not gas, and it has no ethanol. It's great for storage, as the diaphragms stay moist, and there's no chance of corrosion or gum. 2-year shelf life once opened. My trimmer starts 2 pulls every spring.


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## PhillT (Sep 16, 2015)

paulr44 said:


> Which brings you to canned-fuel mix. All major name-brand OEMs now sell canned fuel mix. It's not gas, and it has no ethanol. It's great for storage, as the diaphragms stay moist, and there's no chance of corrosion or gum. 2-year shelf life once opened. My trimmer starts 2 pulls every spring.


A google search reveals nothing like that available in Australia.
Briggs say store with normal fuel plus their additive, others say store dry, and I can find none that mention special "storage fuel"


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

See if you have any STIHL, RedMax, , Jonsered or Husqvarna dealers in your area - all of them have it available.
Also, Home Depot sells TruFuel, and then there's also SEF out there.
I caution you, that the SEF won't run in all units, from experience.

Diaphragm carburetors will benefit from wet storage - ask any tech here. 4-stroke, or float type carbs. won't care, but if you leave even residual fuel in a 4-stroke/float carb. it can create an issue.

If in Australia you can purchase NON-ethanol fuel, you're ahead of the game already! Briggs and Stratton's fuel stabilizer is very good. We use Ethanol Medic or B&S at work, and even use Lucas Fuel Injector Treatment as a bonus sometimes.


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## PhillT (Sep 16, 2015)

paulr44 said:


> See if you have any STIHL, RedMax, , Jonsered or Husqvarna dealers in your area - all of them have it available.
> If in Australia you can purchase NON-ethanol fuel, you're ahead of the game already! Briggs and Stratton's fuel stabilizer is very good. We use Ethanol Medic or B&S at work, and even use Lucas Fuel Injector Treatment as a bonus sometimes.


Hard to get e-fuel here,...not that I want it anyway.
The carby kit arrived yesterday, so I stripped the cary yet again, and the difference in suppleness between the old & new diaphragms & valves was stark to say the least. 
I recon I'll re-kit it every 2 or 3 years from now on.
I'll check out the dealers for that canned fuel mix when I am next i town.
Cheers.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

If you can store it wet, or run it completely dry after each use, the diaphragms should last for years. I had a Tanaka trimmer for 25 years that had a fuel petcock under the tank, and I'd run it dry after every use. Only had to rebuild the carb. twice.


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