# Mystery to solve-Briggs 17HP I/C OHV



## Tamfan (Jun 20, 2010)

Working on a Yard Machines Rider with a 17 HP Briggs 
Model:313707-0162-E5

It runs with a load (blades engaged) very well for 5-10 minutes then sputters and dies. Sometimes it will start right back up, other times it takes 30 seconds or so before it will fire up again and run.

What I've done: 
Rebuilt carb, new fuel line and fuel filter, new spark plug, Oil Change, Air Filter is clean.
I loosened the gas cap when the sputtering symptoms started to see if the cap my be faulty and it had no affect. 

Swapped out an ignition coil from an other Briggs 17 HP I/C and set amature gap to 31000 series specs. (I thought maybe the coil was going bad, so I changed it out), But it still runs and then dies out.

On several tests I have ran it with blades engaged, parking brake locked, seat safety switch disengaged and at full throttle and let it run while I work on another unit. At times it will run for 10-15 mins before it decides to flutter out and eventually die.

I'm over looking something


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## Tamfan (Jun 20, 2010)

This evening I'm going to check the Anti-Backfire Solenoid for proper operation and the voltage of the wires that go to it when the key is in the "on" position.

Also, I'm going check for any maverick air leaking into the intake manifold.

I welcome any ideas anyone suggest.

Thanks!


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## justin3 (Apr 10, 2007)

Possible causes could be a restriction in the fuel tank itself, clogged vent in the carburetor, valve that gets hung up when the engine gets hot. Does it only die when the engine is under a load?


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

Just my two cents, but did you clean the tank? Also it's important to make sure the fuel filter you put in is for a gravity feed system if that's what you have.


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## Tamfan (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks guys-

Yes I cleaned the tank and installed new fuel lines
Also used the Red B/S Fuel filter for gravity feed systems.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Does this engine have a low oil sensor? Could be losing oil pressure and cutting off the ignition.Could also be the valves need adjusting?Here is a link to the Briggs valve adjustment procedure.The clearance is .003-.005 intake,and .005-.007 exhaust.Hope this helps.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/frequently-asked-questions/Servicing the valves/


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## Tamfan (Jun 20, 2010)

usmcgrunt said:


> Does this engine have a low oil sensor? Could be losing oil pressure and cutting off the ignition.Could also be the valves need adjusting?Here is a link to the Briggs valve adjustment procedure.The clearance is .003-.005 intake,and .005-.007 exhaust.Hope this helps.
> 
> http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines/support/frequently-asked-questions/Servicing the valves/


Engine does not have a low oil sensor.
I adjusted valves when engine was cold to specs.

Also double checked Anti-backfire solenoid- it's operational.
Re-cleaned carb once again, no difference.

Here's something to add to my mystery:
Test ran again wide open with and without loads, ran fine for about 10 mins before it would surge and eventually die.

Went back to basics of Air, Fuel, Compression and Ignition to see what I have overlooked.

Went to check "Air", and even though the Air Filter has no debris and it was cleaned the first time with compressed air, I test ran the engine with no filter and it ran fine for 20+ minutes!

Put the Air Filter back on and it died within 5 minutes!
Concluded the Air Filter was the culprit!!............WRONG

Put on a New Air Filter and same problem, runs for awhile then dies.

Never seen this situation in 20 yrs!


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## justin3 (Apr 10, 2007)

When the engine dies, is it spitting fuel out of the intake? Im leaning towards a sticking intake valve at this point.


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## Maytag (Dec 10, 2007)

Hmmm Float type carb? Could float or float spring be set in such a way that not enough fuel comes in and after 10 minutes the carb starves out? Then when it sits for 10 minutes it fills up and away you go? 
How might this relate to the added air flow when the air filter is removed? Does fuel line go too close to the block and you end up "boiling" the gas before it gets to the carb? Vapor lock?
Just a rookies thoughts.
>Maytag


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## Rexy (Jan 21, 2010)

Take the fuel shut off solenoid off the bottom of the carb. Cut off as much of the plunger as possible with some side cutters. Reinstall and mow all day. I have done this to 4 mowers, but I always put an inline manual shut off valve in just in case.


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## Rexy (Jan 21, 2010)

I think it just gets hot and malfunctions.


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