# Echo SRM-2110 Trimmer issues



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

Hello all. 
Older Type-1 engine. Has always been maintained and ran great. Just started acting up, this year. At first, it would be a little hard to start. Then, if it died, whilst running, it wouldn't start again. Then, it wouldn't start at all.I felt it was time, so I replaced the: air filter, fuel filter, spark plug, primer bulb, and did a complete carb rebuild. The engine started once, quickly died, and will not start again.
I verified that the plug is getting current, with a test light. Fuel mix can be seen dripping from the exhaust. The fuel is a fresh mix, from a reputable supplier, and the appropriate 50:1. Same fuel runs fine in saw, blowers, hedge trimmer, etc.
While I didn't replace the fuel lines, I did pressure test them (by pinching one end and blowing in the other).

I've never had this much trouble w/ a 2-stroke, ever. 

Any ideas?

Here's to a wonderful and safe holiday, for all.


----------



## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

If fuel is coming from the muffler, then the carburetor isn't controlling the fuel properly and is allowing it to flood out badly.


----------



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

Thank you, Paul. The amount of mix, dripping from the exhaust, is the culmination of attempting to start the engine for about 30min. Nothing too excessive, but visible. 

The low idle screw was stepped, 1/4 turn at a time, and an attempt to start was made each time. If the throttle is held wide-open, while starting, you can hear it bog.

All the parts from the rebuild kit appear in order. At this point, am I to suspect they're defective? If so, I'll need to go back to the vendor for replacement.


----------



## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Well, you're stuck in 2-stroke diagnostic land. Welcome, hope you brought your own aspirin.

Ok, 2-stroke design incorporates the entire crankcase into the induction system. This means any air leak from a gasket to a crankshaft seal can affect proper operation. When difficulties arise, we use pressure/vacuum tests on the crankcase to find leaks.

However, I'm inclined to believe that the carburetor may be the issue. You've had it for years, so you've probably been using a fuel stabilizer, such as Sta-Bil. Older stabilizers don't address the ethanol, and that may be the issue. If water was absorbed, corrosion could've occurred, and despite a carb. rebuild there's a passageway or jet that's restricted.

But....

Finally, if fuel is dripping from the exhaust I will revert to my "flooding" armchair diagnosis. This next flood-clearing procedure may or may not work.

Remove the spark plug.
Remove the air filter (is a restriction).
Turn the ignition switch OFF. Don't need to fry the CD coil or start a fire.
Close the mixture screws fully, lightly mind you.
Place a rag over the spark plug hole.
Pull the rope numerous times, this in an effort to clear the flooded condition.
Reinstall the plug (ensure it's dry).
Turn the ign. switch on.
Again at WOT, pull it over up to about 20 times. If it doesn't fire and die (mix. screws closed it shouldn't keep running), you'll need to dig in further.
If it starts and dies, open the mix. screws 3/4 turns each, and re-try starting. At this point choke may be necessary.

From there, perhaps you can balance the carb.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

There is 3 different carburetors listed for your trimmer. Which model carburetor do you have? What was the part # of the Kit you purchased?


----------



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

Thank you for the replies. 

Paul:
I will give your suggestions a try. A combination of nice weather and my wife are killing my available time.
To address the fuel issue, I do not use stabilizers. My equipment is always drained, at the end of the season, and ran dry (with a shot of Marvel Mystery in the plug hole to last the winter). I only mix 1gal at a time so I throw the mixed fuel away, actually gets used to burn the Christmas tree, and start fresh every spring. My tractor runs 87 so there's no worry about that becoming unstable and contaminating the mix fuel.
I also poked copper wire down all the carb's holes and followed with shots of carb cleaner to verify a free passage.

30yeartech:
I have an earlier serial # Type 1. All parts procured from ereplacement.
Nozzle Check Valve Part #: 12537611610
Primer Bulb Part #: P005003120
Repair Kit Part #: 12530042030
Fuel Filter Part Number: A369000480
Air Filter Part Number: A226001410


----------



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

Ok, so problem not solved, but some good info aquired.

The engine would start, after drying cylinder.
@WOT, the engine starts and runs, until the L mix screw is turned out too far. Works at 1/8 turn out.
@WOT, the engine will die if the throttle is dropped below 1/2, regardless of L mix screw.

Now, if I disconnect the fuel line (just supply) the engine runs great. Will start and idle w/o holding @WOT.

Im lead to believe my tank vent may be malfunctioning. Or something else im totally unaware of.


----------



## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

My understanding of the gas tank vent, which is a check valve, is to prevent a vaccuum from building in the tank. It should take a minute or more of running for that to happen. You can try to crack the cap and see if that makes any difference. You can try to blow air in the vent to clear any clog or just replace the cap.

I don't believe the cap vent relieves too high of a tank pressure. Although there may be some machines out there that do that as well. I will defer to the experts here. If tank pressure gets too high gas will pass into the carb and cause a flood condition. 

Sounds like you are slowly narrowing things down. Good Luck.


----------



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

I gave it a try and no dice. Removal of the gas cap yields no difference in results. It runs great, at WOT w/o fuel line connected.


----------



## dawgpile (Apr 28, 2008)

Wow, if you can run it WOT w/o a fuel line connected, you may be on to something big here!!!

OK, kidding aside... can you be more specific? Exactly where are you disconnecting the supply line? ... from the carb? ... from the fuel filter? When you say it runs great, is it just running out the gas in the bulb and it stops? IOW, how long can you run it without a supply line? Is there any possibility the supply and return lines got switched when you did the carb? (I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but it happens, and it's simple enough to check..)

Keep us posted!


----------



## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Deere214 said:


> Ok, so problem not solved, but some good info aquired.
> 
> The engine would start, after drying cylinder.
> @WOT, the engine starts and runs, until the L mix screw is turned out too far. Works at 1/8 turn out.
> ...


No, no, no. Tank vents let air in, they only factor in if it runs awhile and quits (air has to replace the fuel consumed).

The symptom you're describing is an inlet needle valve issue. Since you've rebuilt the carb., I'd suggest you re-check the needle lever height, and the assembly (gasket first, then diaphragm). If you have the old diaphragm, compare the tab height that contacts the needle lever...you could have received the wrong kit or it could have been mis-packed.

In order to test a carb. for a needle issue, you need a hand-actuated pressure pump and gauge, such as a mit-i-vac (spelling?). It should hold at least 8 psi.


----------



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

dawgpile said:


> Wow, if you can run it WOT w/o a fuel line connected, you may be on to something big here!!!Yes, Yes!! Runs for IDK 20-30 sec, then dies, from lack of fuel.
> 
> OK, kidding aside... can you be more specific? Exactly where are you disconnecting the supply line? ... from the carb? ... from the fuel filter? Disconnecting fuel supply line from carb body inlet nipple.
> When you say it runs great, is it just running out the gas in the bulb and it stops? IOW, how long can you run it without a supply line? Is there any possibility the supply and return lines got switched when you did the carb? (I'm not trying to insult your intelligence but it happens, and it's simple enough to check..)Fuel supply, black line, runs from tank/filter to carb body nipple. Purge line runs from purge base nipple to tank.
> ...





paulr44 said:


> I'd suggest you re-check the needle lever height How do you check the height? Is there a way to measure?
> and the assembly (gasket first, then diaphragm). It is correct
> If you have the old diaphragm, compare the tab height that contacts the needle lever...you could have received the wrong kit or it could have been mis-packed. Measure from Carb side of gasket to the center metal piece? What is the measurement to remain w/in spec?
> 
> In order to test a carb. for a needle issue, you need a hand-actuated pressure pump and gauge, such as a mit-i-vac (spelling?). It should hold at least 8 psi. I have a brake system vac pump, good? Am I blocking off the fuel supply side and vacuum from the purge base nipple?


Thanks again for the help!


----------



## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

All your questions are answered in the service manuals for Walbro & Zama.
Service Manuals
http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/TechGuide_2007.pdf


----------



## Deere214 (May 27, 2016)

Very nice, downloading and printing now.
Thank you.


----------

