# Revell USS Voyager with Lights



## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

So this is my second go at building this voyager model. Order a fresh model and it came in earlier this week. This is my game plan for this model.

Paint Light Block (Done)
Drill Windows
Airbrush base hull color and aztecing, other airbursh work
Fill Windows
Detail Paint sensor arrays and everything else that needs detail painting
Cement all clear pieces and other small plastic parts to model
Install all the lighting
Cement model together
Apply clear coat
Attach Decals
Apply clear coat

The lighting kit I am using it being supplied by secretreeve.

For the Light Block I unbagged all the parts, trimmed the plastic spurs off the larger pieces, and washed all the parts in warm water and soap for about 10 mins. I then dried them all off and airbrushed flat black on the inside of the parts that needed light block (most of them) and let it dry for about 30 mins. I repeated this for three coats of flat black and one coat of flat white at the end.










After all that fun, I started the process of cutting out the windows for lighting. I decided to go ahead and cut all the windows out for a seemless look, then if later I decided that I do not what some of them lit, to block them out from the inside. This process took a lot of trial and error, but i ended up using an electric drill instead of a hand drill (much quicker) and a #68 drill bit to drill two adjacent holes in the corners of the windows, and then cutting the middle plastic out with a #11 hobby knife blade. This method idea came from secretreeve. So far I am about 40% done with the saucer windows.


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

looking good JC. keep the pictures coming haha. thanks for the credits too 

i'll post some pics of the lighting kit for you later today hopefully


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Yeah! Looks good so far. I am building this one next after my refit.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Windows*

I counted today....in total there are 448 windows to be cut out in the saucer and engineering sections.....

448.....just to repeat


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

yup lots of the little buggers, heres some pics of the improved nacelle lighting for your kit JC














































I'd suggest, once you have installed the board to the nacelle, use something to block off the bussard and warp coil assembly areas to stop that little bit of red light bleed.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Progress*

So I have finished all the port side windows of the sauces section, had to use modeling filler to remake the plastic between two windows that got accidentally cut together, it turned out ok.










I'm starting on the starboard side, but its a long process and I can only do so many windows at a time before I get discouraged and my back gets tired of leaning over....ha

Heres the filler that I will be using for the windows after airbrushing. I sampled several different window makers including just clear epoxy, but I decided to go with this brand because it dried very clear compared to every other I tried and looks a lot cleaner and more realistic than the epoxy.










And I found these to be awesome for decal application....They produce the most painted on look that I have ever found....great stuff










Also here are the links to the sites that I am using on this project.

CGI and studio model photos of voyager
http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=21342
http://drexfiles.wordpress.com/2011/02/06/uss-voyager-cgi-pictorial/

Painting Guide
http://www.thomasmodels.com/voybu.html

Lighting Kit and some build/paint help
http://secretsmodelling.webs.com/revellussvoyager.htm


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Windows Filling*

Here's my testing of the windows filling on my old (failed) voyager model

Epoxy - Dried almost clear, but still had a yellow tint and the thinkness of the windows did not look realistic, very hard to get air bubbles out of and i do not think would look that good with light behind it










Testors clear cement and windows maker - This stuff in the bottle is slightly yellow and it dries pretty yellow. It makes a very thin window, but like i said dries yellow and around the edges of the window is build up and very yellow










Kristal Klear - In the bottle is white, and when it dries turns about as clear as you can get. I liked the look of the windows this made. My only problem is the the windows are slightly convex, but its really hard to tell. I decided to go with this one even though it made convex windows, it looks so much better than the thick, opaque yellow windows the epoxy made.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Caution*

Be careful when your using an exacto knife to cut windows, or this could happen....it bled for about 4 hours......a lot


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Roughly 3 years ago while working on the big E, I stabbed myself in the hand with my exacto. The whole blade went in and when I pulled it out, blood spurted across my work table and onto the wall. Had to go to the ER and get three stitches. Don't have any pics though. 

Just this past December, I was moving an arcade machine in the bed of my truck and while pulling it out of the bed, the tail gate hinge failed and the machine fell and crushed the end of my middle finger. When I get home, I'll post some pics.

*EDIT:* Here's what happens when you try to pull your hand out from under a 500lb arcade machine as it's falling off a faulty truck's tailgate hinge...(won't hotlink the pic as it's pretty bad. View at your own risk...)


http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m202/zenomorp/MK1 inside/IMG_0043.jpg

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m202/zenomorp/MK1 inside/IMG_0042.jpg


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

wow, that hurts


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Saucer Windows Done*

So Today I finished cutting out all the windows in the top and bottom halves of the saucer section. The few places you see putty are the places where I messed up and cut the division between two windows, in once case all three for a three panel. I'm not sure if i can remold the windows or not, if I cannot I am just going to get them puttied and paint over it and just pretend those windows don't exist....haha


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Damn, that a lot of work. I commend you.


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

jsimpson746 said:


>


Personally, I prefer paper towels and blue painter's tape when I wrap my thumb wounds.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

haha, actually I used painters tape today when I ran out of medical tape....haha


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Ouch, been there, done that.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Port Windows*

Ok I finished the port windows of the engineering section today, the starboard windows and next, maybe sometime tomorrow I will have them done.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Update*

All the windows have been cut out. Once I got close to the end, I had a little more motivation to get it done. My wrist and right hand are still killing me though. Way before you get to the 448th windows, you will think what you are doing is insane, and it very well maybe.

So I finished the windows cutting yesterday, and since then I have been busy. All the airbrush work is done. I posted a link to the website that I used for the painting guide earlier. I used that in combination with the provided instructions and some help from the CGI model pics where I didn't agree with the instructions painting chart. Where I am from there are no Revell paints available, only testors model master, so I made a comparison chart for colors and added several from the painting reference site and some I just made up










Here is all the completed airbrush work. I didn't think that the aztecing would work out with the two colors being so close to each other, but in person it looks amazing - the perfect paneling look that very subtle and I think looks just like the CGI model. 














































Next I will be working on the detail painting and filling in the windows.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Painting Done*

Here is all the detail painting 95% complete. Still have a little clean up work and touches to add here and there.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)




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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Windows Filled*

Ok so all the windows have been filled and I am very happy with the results. It also did not take me very long to complete, maybe only an hour in total. All of the painting is done except for some minor touch ups and the bottom of the engineering section phaser array, which I am going to wait till after the model is completely assembled to finish painting and to decal. Holes have been drilled for the lighting kit. As soon as the lighting kit gets here is a few weeks it will be installed and everything cemented together, clear coated, decaled, clear coated, and admired (hopefully)

The bridge windows offer a good look at how clear the filling of the windows is....it looks so good with some light behind it.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Nicely done. :thumbsup:

I'm considering using the Krystal Klear on my TOS E. At least for certain areas.

Keep up the good work!


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

She's looking great so far. Looking forward to seeing her finished. The Krystal Klear windows look great !


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Great work! This is the kit I plan to do next, so this is teaching me a lot. Thanks!


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## secretreeve (Sep 11, 2012)

I'm hoping to get JC's lighting kit out to him this week sometime.

The works coming along fantastically, the filled windows look awesome and so is the paint job!

BTW zeno, i've also done this kit, so happy to give ya my skype name if you have any questions about it.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Update*

So I had everything ready for the lighting kit for a while now...which should get here later this week or beginning of next. In the meantime i took it upon myself to finish the display shelf I am going to out Voyager on along with a name plate on the front of the shelf.

For the display base I drilled a hole in the back and ran the wires for the power adapter up through the top of the shelf. Then i glued them down and made long strips with conductive glue. I then wired metal contacts onto the bottom of the voyager display stand and ran the wires up through the silver part of the stand. This way the stand can be moved along the shelf and even tilted front or back, and moved off the shelf if need be without having to unhook any wires.

For the name plate, it was a complicated process, and I'm not 100% happy with it, but it works. The CCFLS for that should be here on Thursday, but here is a test of the lighting behind it with just some christmas lights.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Did you use any kind of needle file on your windows? I started on my lower saucer windows only to discover that my needle files are all too big. Unfortunately, they are the smallest my LHS sells and trying to find smaller ones online is very daunting because they just show pictures with no measurements.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

I bought the smallest file set that I could find, only to be very saddened when all of them where too big. And actually on my model the saucer windows were smaller than the engineering section and lower saucer windows. All that I could do was to drill out the two holes and cut out the middle using a #11 exacto knife. I then used the same blade to square off the windows the best i could.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jsimpson746 said:


> I bought the smallest file set that I could find, only to be very saddened when all of them where too big. And actually on my model the saucer windows were smaller than the engineering section and lower saucer windows. All that I could do was to drill out the two holes and cut out the middle using a #11 exacto knife. I then used the same blade to square off the windows the best i could.


That's the method I am trying now...but after an hour and slicing the tips of two fingers with a brand new #11 blade, I'm calling it a night. You know, after I did all the cutting needed on the AMT command bridge set, I swore I would never do another project that would require a lot of cutting. So much for that vow! LOL

P.S. The windows are turning out better than I expected...


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

Here is the completed name plate with the lights behind it.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

Voyager will go on the far left on that shelf that you can see when she is done.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Wow. Just... wow.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

jsimpson746 said:


> Voyager will go on the far left on that shelf that you can see when she is done.


That is the most ridiculously amazing display shelf I've ever seen. Can't wait to see this all finished.


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## jsimpson746 (Mar 14, 2013)

*Update*

Well she is still sitting in pieces on my workbench. Still waiting on the lighting kit. As soon as that gets here, should be done in a day or two, depending on how motivated I am on decaling quickly. Maybe by the end of next week it will all be over, but I don't have an ETA on the lighting kit yet.


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