# Echo PB 46HT Stops running when warm



## TreeMan086 (Dec 22, 2008)

Hey folks, I was hoping you could help me. I was having problems with my leaf blower. It would run for a while and, when it got hot, would die... as if it ran out of fuel. I purchased a rebuild kit, installed it, and it's still doing the same thing... Runs great for about 5 to 10 minutes then dies. When I rebuilt the carb, I also replaced the fuel screen and filter... 

Any help would be awesomely appreciated..

Thanks


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Could be gas tank isn't venting - try loosening cap a little and re-try
Could be ignition coil - "hot open"
Could be a bad spark plug


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## TreeMan086 (Dec 22, 2008)

Thanks for the reply... The gas cap is good. I've tried running it with it lose... And as far as the hot open / spark issue, If I don't wear the unit, keep it on the ground, I can force it to run a little longer by playing with the choke...


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## Lawnmowertech (Nov 12, 2008)

Treeman i would say that your CDI module is got a dead short in it when it warms up it is causing it to mis fire which in turn creates the exact symptom you describe 

another thing that it could be is the muffler has a screen in it if that screen is plugged up with carbon deposits then that is causing a choking affect on the engine 


that last comment you posted if you play with the choke to get it to run a little while longer check that muffler screen then if that is clear i would do a compression check on it when it is cold and again when it is hot at the point it conks out take and do a compression test on it right then but be careful not to touch any spark plug with bare hands use hand protection when doing this to protect you from getting burns on the hands 

but this way you can get a good idea of what the cylinder is doing vs the piston and rings as well to see if it is expanding or staying the same 

let me know what you find out its going to either be the compression related or ignition related or exhaust related 


calvin


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

On rare occasions I have seen blown cylinder gaskets or other CC (crankcase) leaks cause this type of symptom, but in most cases it's a carb. related issue, or a collapsing fuel line.
To check for a vacuum leak:
You may have to remove the engine cover to access the cylinder base...
Take it outside, bring a can of carb. cleaner spray with a nozzle pipe on it, and run it at idle. Staying clear of the muffler (else risk fire), spray around the cylinder base, and listen for an RPM change. Wait a 5 to 10 seconds, then spray around the intake manifold, and listen for an RPM change.
Or, carburetor despite being rebuilt is N.G.
Paul


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I agree with paul, I think you either have an air leak or your carburetor still is not right. 

A sticking high speed check valve in the carburetor could cause this and you would not have replaced it in the kit. I have seen a number of Echo blowers that have the crankshaft seal on the starter side get loose and leak when the engine is warm. You may want to take the starter off and have a look, if it looks wet and oily under the starter, then it's likely that the seal is leaking.

Best of Luck :thumbsup:


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## TreeMan086 (Dec 22, 2008)

Thanks so much for the tips... So far I was able to check the exhaust screen and it is clean. Too many projects to keep me away from testing these other ideas, but thanks so much for the responses!!!

Any ideas of how to check my CDI module without spending $70 for a new one?

Thanks


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## PCC (May 1, 2008)

TreeMan -

If it turns out to be an ignition issue, I just happened to have the document:

"Emmisions And Warranty Statements For Type 1E Models" (this was inside a packet with my 46HT manual)

99922202796
05/96
Printed 06/96

If you are the original owner and can prove proof of purchase, it shows that the electronic ignition module is warranted for the life of the product (parts only), this is for both residential & commercial. Of course there are exclusions if you've misused it.

Patrick


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