# WIP - Moebius "The Voyager", from Fantastic Voyage (the cartoon)



## Fernando Mureb

Hey Guys!

I will build the Voyager from Moebius. I made an web research and figured out that there is few models built to use as references. 

Fortunatelly, Trekkrific did an extraordinary work recently, very well documented (here). :woohoo:

So, that will be my main reference and inspiration. Other references are Thunderbird, Tony Hardy and Damon Wright.

I would appreciate any sugestions and critics. Thanks.:thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Those are the main white plastic parts washed.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Let's do a close examine of some parts.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Continuing the exam.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Dry fit.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Continuing the dry fit.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Verifying the best place for the battery.*





No. Too much ahead.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I cut the fuselage in the most forward point possible in order to provide sufficient space for the lighting of the engine exhausts.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Cutting the engine exhausts.*







I want to make the exhausts yellow instead of red. To do that I used an empty CD case.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Stay tuned. :wave:


----------



## Cajjunwolfman

Killermonjero!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

About the lighting, my plan is:

1) Nav lights on both sides of each wing (2 red leds and 2 green leds - round - 3mm).

2) Placing a led on the upper side of each wing to lighting the rudder and the stabilizer (2 white bright leds - round - 3mm).

3) Engine exhausts (3 white bright leds - round - 3mm).

4) Cabin and the two compartments behind it (4 white bright leds - SMD).

5) Busby Birdwell consoles and dome (1 white bright led - SMD).

6) Placing a headlight on the nose of the flying submarine (1 white bright led - round - 3mm).

More pictures soon.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I used a file to found the best angle to positioning the LED which will lighting the rudder and the stabilizer.






This picture also shows the hole to the navigational light.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

This is the hole to the headlight.







The LED will be placed below (inserted in) the main console.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Here is another great idea from Trekkrific (the other was the opening of the lower fuselage for battery insertion): a hole to support the kit at the time of painting.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Those who have followed my threads know that I always make a big mistake during the assembly of the kit (so far, at the end, with the lighting).

Well, if the mean of mistakes is one per kit, so the lighting of my Voyager is safe, because the mistake has already been made: I spilled a Tamiya cement pot through the cutting mat.



I almost destroyed the stabilizer. I had to sand it and those flaps I had carved yesterday almost disappeared.


----------



## kenlee

Removed by author.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Kenlee! :thumbsup:

Living and learning... wait, who said that? Spok?


----------



## Zombie_61

It's a sad fact of life that we often learn more from our mistakes and failures than we learn from our successes. But as long as we keep learning, they all have value.


----------



## liskorea317

Looking good Fernando! And it's nice to know you don't bite your nails!
Shows that you're a calm fellow!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Al and Liskorea.

Continuing the photos from the last post, here is the rear panel of the rudder with the hole for the support to hold the kit for painting.



This is a detail of the plug pins on the door that I made in the lower side of the fuselage, to make access to the battery.





Oops!! It needs to be worked out.



OK, fixed.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

This is an idea I have to make the engine exhausts a little more realistic.

I had already used this pack of yogurt to simulate the folding doors of the cabins my PL Jupiter 2.











I intend paint silver and then superimpose a layer of black diluted with water. What do you guys think about it? Any ideas on weathering the kit?

I applied the same detail on the water intakes (I guess they are for this, ain't they?), to make a grid.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

The pack of yogurt continues to be a good source of inspiration.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I'm prepared to apply a coat of silver on the internal side of the fuselage and other parts, to prevent light leakage.


----------



## AZbuilder

Hey, that is a great build-up your doing Fernando, I built and lit a "Voyager" a few years ago. Looking forward to seeing your finished project.

AZbuilder
John Davis


*Let Your Imagination Soar*


----------



## Xenodyssey

Great idea using the yogart container, I'll have to remember it. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thank you, folks!

John, I saw your build but unfortunately I couldn't manage to expand the thumbnails of your pictures to see the details. Anyway, it was a very well documented work. It would be interesting if I could see your lighting process in more details :thumbsup:


----------



## Spockr

You are doing very interesting modifications to your Voyager Fernando. This kind of build is fun to watch. I like your creative use of yogurt container and the battery 'door' is a great idea.

I'll be checking out your progress and I hope everything goes as planned.

Regards,
Matt,

PS: I've knocked over my ZAP kicker btlle three time in the last month. You would think we would learn from our mistakes.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Spockr said:


> You are doing very interesting modifications to your Voyager Fernando. This kind of build is fun to watch. I like your creative use of yogurt container and the battery 'door' is a great idea.
> 
> I'll be checking out your progress and I hope everything goes as planned.
> 
> Regards,
> Matt,


Thanks for the kind words, Matt. :thumbsup:



Spockr said:


> PS: I've knocked over my ZAP kicker btlle three time in the last month. You would think we would learn from our mistakes.


LOL - I almost dropped the pot of glue again on the same day I posted a picture of the disaster. But I was ashamed to tell. :lol:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

A photo of the engine exhaust with the detail already painted and lit (not a LED, but the incandescent bulb in my luminaire).



This is the beginning of the lighting process. There were 32 solder points so far. By the way, what kind of protection do you usually use for breathing, not to inhale the smoke from welding?


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Sigh! There I go to a new masking-painting-unmasking boring process. :freak:


----------



## Spockr

A suggestion if I may. Given the quantity of leds you are using you may want to reconsider how to handle light blocking.

A. Repaint the interior with a coat of black followed by another coat of silver.

or

B. Add a coat of silver to the outside of the kit and then go back over it with a coat of white

You might also think about increasing the resistor values a little to make them less bright.

I hope that helps.

Regards,
Matt


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hey Matt!

Thanks! In fact I had already decided to proceed like your option B, because I noticed a difficulty of the spray to reach corners and depressions. Looking backwards I realize now that all that masking job was a wasting of tape and time, considering that I'm about to do exactly what I was trying to avoid. :freak:

As for the LEDs, the picture emphasises the brightness too much. A better camera (or photographer ) would make justice to the real thing. Besides, I am too lazy to redo that circuit board, eh, eh.


----------



## gareee

I almost always just use a interior coat of silver, and because that reflects the light, it seems to do a better job preventing light bleed through.

On some parts of the seaview I'm doing, I'm actually going a quick n dirty route, using that aluminum foil tape used for ac vents and just sticking it on the interior. It blocks 100%, and its fairly cheap at walmart.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Gareee!

Thanks. Yes, the aluminum foil tape could work on the wings, but I'm afraid it wouldn't on the fuselage (the internal lighting would escape through sites other than the main viewport and dome). The plastic is quite thin.

Anyway, it's done.  I need to be more alert when make decisions here. I could have save paint on the wings. :wave:


----------



## gareee

Hindsight as they say, is 20/20.

Thats partly why I' ve been taking my time on the big seaview, trying to plan the best way to built and light her.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

While the paint is drying, I am following an advice from David Merriman to Trekkrifc on the
latter Voyager's thread: I am putting the lighting scheme to burn for 48 hours. 

Having passed by two disasters lighting up kits, I don't want any surprises this time. :freak:



Still left to do the four SMD for interior lighting.


----------



## Trekkriffic

Nice job so far Fernando. You are certainly being more ambitious with the lighting than I was. Love the SMD LEDs, wish I'd had some when I built my Voyager. 

One thing though, in post 5, the wings appear to be upside down in youir dry fit. Hopefully you noticed that before drilling the holes for your lights.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Trekkriffic said:


> Nice job so far Fernando. You are certainly being more ambitious with the lighting than I was. Love the SMD LEDs, wish I'd had some when I built my Voyager.
> 
> One thing though, in post 5, the wings appear to be upside down in youir dry fit. *Hopefully you noticed that before drilling the holes for your lights*.


No, I didn't!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  

And it is just thanks to you that I am, right now, and in time, correcting my mistake. I'm in great debt with you, my friend. Thanks a lot.


----------



## Trekkriffic

Glad to help! I did the same thing the first time but caught it before gluing the wings on. 

You asked about weathering. I would say keep it to a minimum. This was a cartoon ship after all and it was clean on TV. One thing I did with mine was to take an HB pencil and run it along the edges of the wings and wherever two parts joined at an angle to try and represent the cartoon look. On a white ship it helps to define the edges a bit more.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Trekkriffic!

You know what? When I made the dry fit that wrong look seemed so cool to me that I didn't bother to see the instructions manual or the reference pictures. I must confess that, despite my error, I liked that arrangement of the wings. 

I will make very light weathering only on the air and water intakes.

I've just ended up the corrections. Besides have redoing the holes to the rudder's lighting on the correct side of the wings and filling the the wrong holes, I did all that sand and putty thing, both on the wings an fuselage.

Tomorrow I hope I can make a final sand and install all the circuits inside the kit. With luck, I'm going to paint the interior on saturday to make the final assembly.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Meanwhile*

I painted both consoles (control cabin and dome) silver, because this color highlights the details, besides being more realistic than blue.





Taking advantage of an Trekkriffic's idea​​, I'll lower the cabin roof to install the lighting, but I'll use an ultrathin plastic sheet and put the SMD between it and the hull (at least, I hope so ).

I made a mold of paper to cut the plastic the exact shape.





Test fit of the electronics. Bad omens assail my soul.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

This sequence of images shows how the headlight circuit will be fed.


----------



## Trekkriffic

That's a lot of wiring! I found out with my build using a 9V to power 7 LEDs resulted in a short battery life. Usually I could see noticeable dimming after 5 minutes of constant on. If you only turn them on ocassionally for a minute or less the battery should last longer. 

One thing about the headlight, you may want to consider inserting the LED inside a styrene tube and inserting the tube into the bow. That may not be possible though as you need to accomodate the dashboard. If it were me I'd want the LED recessed a bit more than you show in the photo.


----------



## gareee

The tube thing is what I'm goign to attempt to do with the seaview's headlight. That way the light is back a bit further, and the light reflects of the tube interior edges, so it looks less like an led bulb.

It doesn't look like he has any room at all here though.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

You got the point here: the lack of room behind the control console. It accommodates exactly a 3mm LED. The LED will be positioned a little more backwards. In the picture it seems like a... well... LED.

I had thought of putting a tube outside the nose, but that would be a more drastic intervention on the Voyager original lines. The headlight and the rudder's lights are enough.

------------------------

It's been a wet, raining day here. I don't expect to have the painted parts dry today.


----------



## Trekkriffic

Fernando Mureb said:


> You got the point here: the lack of room behind the control console. It accommodates exactly a 3mm LED. The LED will be positioned a little more backwards. In the picture it seems like a... well... LED.
> 
> I had thought of putting a tube outside the nose, but that would be a more drastic intervention on the Voyager original lines. The headlight and the rudder's lights are enough.
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> It's been a wet, raining day here. I don't expect to have the painted parts dry today.


No. Having the tube project outside the nose would not look good. I was thinking of it being flush. If you used thin-walled brass or aluminum tubing and shaved off some of the thickness of the console plastic it might fit.


----------



## gareee

Maybe just sand the surface of the led?


----------



## Richard Baker

How about covering the headlight with a rectangular frosted plate? It would blend in when the light is off and still allow a lot of light forward when on...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

gareee said:


> Maybe just sand the surface of the led?


Nope! The LED must be round to emit the light in a conic shape.



Richard Baker said:


> How about covering the headlight with a rectangular frosted plate? It would blend in when the light is off and still allow a lot of light forward when on...


It's exactly what I am trying, with the difference that I filled the hole with flexible translucent plastic. Then, I'm gonna try Micro Kristal Klear or Future to make the surface of the "lens" flush with the nose surface.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Little progress today, or should I say slower than it is used to be?

The sequence of images shows the lighting of the engine exhausts.


----------



## AZbuilder

*RE: Your Post #27*

Thanks for your Interest in my Voyager build I can E-Mail you my wiring pics if you like. I also like your battery door and yogurt cup ideas I think that will make your build pop. :thumbsup:

John Davis
AZbuilder

*
Let Your Imagination Soar*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks John. :thumbsup:

In fact, the battery door is a Trekkriffic idea, among many others.

I sent you a PM.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I decided not to light directly the compartments behind the cabin, because nothing can be seen there. However, since I also decided that our friend Doc Busby Birdwell should have an internal access to the dome, those compartments will ending up being lighted indirectly from above (the Birdwell consoles lighting).


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I made some paper molds, to cut pieces of plastic the exact shape in order to make a sub-ceiling to the cabin and to extend the superior inner side of the fuselage.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Sequence of the dome lighting.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Sequence of the headlight scheme assembly.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Weathering the intakes and exhausts.*

This is the first time I do something like that, so be indulgent, please.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

The new upper inner side of the fuselage.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Preparing the consoles of the cabin and dome to be lighted.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Lighting the exhausts.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Finishing the control circuit board.*

Preparing a suport to fix the board on the upper inner side of the fuselage.



I made four holes, one on each corner of the board and used a 0,5mm round rod to fix the two supports on the board through the holes, because I didn't know if the cement would stick to the board, since it was greased with solder paste.





Hot glue to avoid short circuit.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Battery door assembly.*

I'll take an idea Trekkriffic and use a velcro strap to secure the battery. The difference is that in this case the strap will be fixed to the door itself.





134 pictures so far. Hope you are enjoing this building.


----------



## Cajjunwolfman

This is a Great Build. You are inspiring me to do my kit!


----------



## gareee

A circuit board? How fancy schmancy!  I'm just using a led ribbon string for my seaview. You'd think because of the size it ould be eaier, but the space inside the top sail is minimal, and planning how to add the lights AND build has been a challenge.

After reading about your light bleed, I double checked mine, and had to add some aluminum ac tape and a coat of silver inside to block light leakage.

Just light /wireing planning and blocking took a whole day almost.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Cajjunwolfman said:


> This is a Great Build. You are inspiring me to do my kit!


Thanks, Cajjunwolfman. Your kind words encourage me. :thumbsup:



gareee said:


> A circuit board? How fancy schmancy!  I'm just using a led ribbon string for my seaview. You'd think because of the size it ould be eaier, but the space inside the top sail is minimal, and planning how to add the lights AND build has been a challenge.
> 
> After reading about your light bleed, I double checked mine, and had to add some aluminum ac tape and a coat of silver inside to block light leakage.
> 
> Just light /wireing planning and blocking took a whole day almost.


Hi Gareee

The particularity of this build is that I have to provide power everywhere, due the lighting scheme I decided to do. 

If I was to light only the cabin and the exhausts, the use of two led strips (3 leds each) would have been more rational.

I was assembling and painting a Warrior MCV tank 1:72 from Revell and was thinking how less "brain consumer" it was build a kit without have to lighting it. :freak:

Suddenly, I realized that I was doing that MCV (more than 150 parts, 9.4cm and skill level 4!!!) to have a rest from the Voyager building!!! LOL. :lol:


----------



## Trekkriffic

Very elegant approach using a circuit board. Much cleaner than my rat's nest of wires and resistors. 
One thing comparing my build to yours, with the aftermarket TSDS decals for the consoles I was able to leave the white kit plastic unpainted and apply the console decals on top. When lit from below the consoles would light up quite nicely. 
I didn't light up the lower cabin consoles but I did Busby's and when lit the effect was very cool:


----------



## gareee

Those decals DO look great on that console!

You inspired me to show off my dirty little wireing secrets as well on my build. I wasn't sure anyone would be interested, but now that I think about it, I couldn't find anyone else's seaview lighting pics either, so I'm winging it.

I JUST got my final interior lighting done today.. its quite stressfull, so I'm taking post time to decompress befre continuing with the top sail lights.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Trekkriffic said:


> Very elegant approach using a circuit board. Much cleaner than my rat's nest of wires and resistors.
> One thing comparing my build to yours, with the aftermarket TSDS decals for the consoles I was able to leave the white kit plastic unpainted and apply the console decals on top. When lit from below the consoles would light up quite nicely.
> I didn't light up the lower cabin consoles but I did Busby's and when lit the effect was very cool:


Thanks Trekkriffic. When a first saw your build I thought I should buy the TSDS decals. However, they would take 15 days (circa) to arrive here and I was so anxious to begin that I gave up from the decals.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

gareee said:


> Those decals DO look great on that console!
> 
> You inspired me to show off my dirty little wireing secrets as well on my build. I wasn't sure anyone would be interested, but now that I think about it, I couldn't find anyone else's seaview lighting pics either, so I'm winging it.
> 
> I JUST got my final interior lighting done today.. its quite stressfull, so I'm taking post time to decompress befre continuing with the top sail lights.


Hi Gareee. See this thread by Tim Nolan. Hope it helps. :wave:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=226717


----------



## gareee

I'll check that out.. thanks!


----------



## Spockr

*Yikes!*

Hey Fernando. A suggestion if its not too late. If you haven't sealed up your circuit board in the kit yet you should use iso-alcohol or acetone to remove the solder flux from your board. The is enough acid in most fluxes to cause the solder joints and resistor leads to corrode over time. Down the road this could cause the failures and will be harder to fix once model is glued together.

Use one of those stiff horse hair brushes to apply the solvent then use a paper towel and the same brush to 'dab' the board. Let it dry and if its still sticky repeat.

When you apply the solvent your hot melt glue bond will come loose so you will have to do that over as well. Once its wet with alcohol it will come loose very easily. After the alcohol dries completely just reapply.

It only takes a few minutes and will save you headaches later.

BTW the build continues to look great. :thumbsup:

Regards,
Matt


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hello everybody. I apologize for being so long without posting, but yesterday I was without Internet access all day.

Hey Spockr! Thank you for your concerns. I cleaned the board with iso-alcohol, but I wouldn't want to take any chance to the board get loose inside the model after it was closed.

Below you can see some progress here, although totally out of that schedule I did a couple of posts ago.











The lighting of the rudder ended up pretty nice for me.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Testing the insertion of the battery.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

To keep the door shut, I borrowed another of the Trekkriffic ideas and glued one magnet inside the door and other on the fuselage. Those magnets are pretty small (3mm x 2mm).


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Preparing to close the wings.*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

At this point, I could give an advice to those who intend to make a similar build.

If you will do the nav lights:

1- do just one side of each wing; or
2- place them more close to the fuselage; or
3- place them on the upper part of the rudder, or anywhere else.

This is because the leds are put together, pointing to oposite directions. So, when you close the halves of the wings, the back side of each led almost touch the other. The problem is not the risk of short circuit since you can isolate the legs, but you have to have enough space to accomodate everything.

Due the position I placed them in my build it's being very difficult to glue the halves of the wings, and I have to use strong clamps to keep the halves firmly jointed until they bond together.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I already glued the wings and have begun to paint the interior blue. I will leav both consoles (cabin and dome) silver, although not matching the cartoon.

More and more it is approaching the event that I fear the most in this build: that when I'll have to do the Guru's turban and Busby Birdwell's glasses. :freak:


----------



## Trekkriffic

Fernando Mureb said:


> I already glued the wings and have begun to paint the interior blue. I will leav both consoles (cabin and dome) silver, although not matching the cartoon.
> 
> More and more it is approaching the event that I fear the most in this build: that when I'll have to do the Guru's turban and Busby Birdwell's glasses. :freak:


When I did Guru's turban I ended up sculpting it from Tamiya epoxy putty. It sets up faster and is a little denser than AVES to work with, I used a sculpting tool to make the creases:


















Busby's glasses were made from strands of tinned copper wire. It's a bit tricky but if you have a sharp tipped tool or a small finishing nail to wrap the wire around it helps. I used droplets of CA to make the lenses:










Anyway, don't mean to steal your thread. I like what you've done so far.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Trekkriffic!

Thanks for being posting. It helps a lot! :thumbsup:

The turban is nothing compared to the glasses. I doubt I have hands steady enough and a vision sharp enough to make two squares of 1mm. In fact, I thought it was impossible till I saw your work.

Well, I'll give it a try. Sometimes I feel kind of embarrassed to express my concerns, because they may be interpreted as false modesty, or an antecipated excuse for a predictable failure. But it's the truth ... glasses with lenses of 1mm?! :freak:


----------



## Trekkriffic

Fernando Mureb said:


> The turban is nothing compared to the glasses... glasses with lenses of 1mm?! :freak:


Yes. The glasses were the hardest part of the whole build I think. I must have spent an hour or more before I got something I could live with.


----------



## WEAPON X

Lots of cool ideas you are incorporating into your build! :thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks WEAPON X!

The work goes slow here. This micro-paint job is stressing and boring. Today I almost drooled over the painting. Damn, I'm only 56!  

I had to modify my plans on the cabin lighting, because I didn't receive the SMD Leds I bought from Hong Kong. Those guys have a crazy low price but the shipping usually lasts 15 to 40 days. 

So, I decided to pick up three 3mm flat top Leds, sanding them to 1mm of thickness and with some luck I will use them to replace the SMD between the roof of the cabin and the sub-ceiling I did to dissipate the light.

Pictures soon.


----------



## gareee

56? Ya have a year on me! Isn't it GREAT to see subjects you were in love with as a kid making it out into plastic form today?

If ONLY some of these were available 40 years ago!


----------



## WEAPON X

gareee said:


> 56? Ya have a year on me! Isn't it GREAT to see subjects you were in love with as a kid making it out into plastic form today?
> 
> If ONLY some of these were available 40 years ago!


It's good to be 56, alive and well! Remember the model industry did not have the same technology that we have today... IMHO that is! 
So happy model building! :wave:


----------



## Trek Ace

Oh, you kids!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

One more error due to the lack of a good planning. I didn't consider the rudder's width when I carved the stabilizers.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

The halves of the left wing didn't close, because the hot glue I used to fix the opposite leds that make the nav lights was too high. Then, I had to make the stuff again.



Here you see the wings closed and the interior painted.



The sequence of images below shows the preparation of the three instruments consoles for being lighted. I used Micro Kristal Klear to fill the several holes I did for lighting.









No lighting here.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Here is my attempt to deal with the headlight lens.





Two flat top 3mm leds I sanded down to lit the cabin.



They should be sanded a little bit more.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

First test of the exhausts lighting.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Detailing the controls...



... and the compartiments behind the cabin.



The red thing in the right compartment is an what-the-heck-tron, an important equipment responsible by the flow of who-knows-what-ium, without what the ship couldn't do something.


----------



## gareee

Fernando Mureb said:


> First test of the exhausts lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> The money shot.. where the hard work pays off! NICE!
> 
> Can't wait to see the cockpit.


----------



## Trekkriffic

Oooh! Nice exhausts!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi folks! Sorry for doesn't post. I've got a work as consultant and a new client are demanding my complete attention during the last days, including the weekend.

I don't have pictures yet, but I can say that I finished the lighting and the painting of the interior. Now I have to glue the fuselage halves and begin the exterior final painting, but prior I have to end up the figures and I'm in trouble with detailing.

I will make efforts to post some pictures on tuesday. Thank you for staying tuned.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Dear friends.

I managed to reserve a little time in this period in which I have worked hard, even on weekends, for a new client of my company, to get some progress on my Voyager project and take some pictures for you.

Things will remain difficult for the next two weeks, but I'll try to manage my time to finish this project as soon as possible.

Thanks for being following this thread. :wave:

---------------------------------------------------

I finished all the electronics ...



(another idea that I borrowed from Trekkrific)



... and assembled and the painted the interior, except for the chairs and figures.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Now some pictures of the lighting. I beg your pardon for the poor quality of the pictures.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

See you soon! :wave:


----------



## Xenodyssey

I have to say you've done a great job. Lighting adds a lot to the Voyager. I quite like the floodlit tail.


----------



## gareee

At that size, you work is simply amazing. Having your hand in there for scale really points the size out.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi folks! Thanks.

The last three models that I built were the Chariot, from Johnny Lightining (in fact I disassembled it to make some improvements), the 1:24 Robot B9, from PL and now the Moebius Voyager. 

I lighted the last two and I feel I need to build something bigger now, because working inside those tiny models is driving me crazy.:freak:


----------



## Cajjunwolfman

You did a great job, even in this small scale.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando,
I'm at a loss for words, this has turned out to be the nicest treatment of this kit
that I've ever seen....... I look forward to the competition.......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## gareee

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi folks! Thanks.
> 
> The last three models that I built were the Chariot, from Johnny Lightining (in fact I disassembled it to make some improvements), the 1:24 Robot B9, from PL and now the Moebius Voyager.
> 
> I lighted the last two and I feel I need to build something bigger now, because working inside those tiny models is driving me crazy.:freak:


Working on the big seaview was nice, but even being large, it has tiny details like the interior. Its always something.

I still have my Chariot, but painting the canopy just sounds like a huge pain in the rump.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hey guys.

Thanks for your kind compliments. 

Right now I am in the airport waiting my flight to Brasília (Brazil's capital). I'll be back to Rio on thurday night. Till there, I'm afraid there will be no progress on my Voyager. I hope I can manage to finish painting the figures, in order to close the fuselage and finally begin the sand/putty/paint process of the external hull.

My next projet would be the Moebius space clipper, but I'm thinking to change to something bigger as I said. However, I have a compromise to myself that is to make a new tiny PL Robot B9, since I messed up the lighting of the previous one.


----------



## Spockr

Your progress looks great and I hope you had a safe trip Fernando.


----------



## fortress

Man that is one tricked out voyager!!! Very nice!

Fortress


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hello Fortress!

Thank you for your kind words. 

Unfortunately I am having a lot (and I mean A LOT) of work (and some trouble) in my job since the last two month and thus I had to stop building my kit. I hope I will have succeed in put my job in a normal rate again soon so that I can finish the Voyager.

I apologise to everyone that is visiting this page hoping to see the work done. :wave:


----------



## Spockr

Glad to know you still plan to complete this very cool project one day. Hope the work situation will sort out and you'll get back into your modeling zone. 

Regards,
Matt


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Spockr said:


> Glad to know you still plan to complete this very cool project one day. Hope the work situation will sort out and you'll get back into your modeling zone.
> 
> Regards,
> Matt


Thanks Spockr. Yes, I do plan to complete the project in August. :wave:


----------



## StarshipClass

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Spockr. Yes, I do plan to complete the project in August. :wave:


Great to hear!:thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*I am back!*

Hey Guys! :wave:

After an interval of two months, during which I had to devote myself exclusively to my work as a consultant (I am retired Navy officer, but I need to supplement my income, at least for a while), here I am back in my beloved hobby to finish the job with the Voyager.

Ok ... last week, as you recall ... oops, sorry, wrong number ... the last time, as you may remember, I still needed to paint the figures and install them in the kit. Then I should glue the fuselage halves and start putying and sanding the model aiming the final painting job.

Let's see how I went out with the figures.

As everybody else in this situation, I made holes in the figures butts (ouch!) and fixed clips into the holes.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I forgot to paint the belt buckles for the photos, but I already got them fixed. 

 

 

In this perspective the glasses are more like a mask, but in the actual size, the solution works very well. I tried to make the glasses with super fine wire, but I realized that this would take me a long time because of the trembling fingers. And in the end, at least to my eyes, it would not make much difference.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Now, some of the cockpit seats.

 

OK, that's it. Now, let's close this "flying sub".


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Gluing the two halves*

I love those clamps so much...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*Preparing to final sanding and painting.*

I hate masking so much...





... and the lights still remain uncovered. *sigh*


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I am in the process of sand - putty - sand. Already alternated four times and still can not get a good result. For me, that's the worst part of the hobby. 

I always screw myself up when I have to fill in those microscopic holes that sometimes appear on the puttied surface. I end up placing mass in the surrounding areas and when I try to fix the mess, I just make things worse. :freak:

Sometimes I have to control myself to stop before covering the entire kit with puty.


----------



## Spockr

Fernando Mureb said:


> I am in the process of sand - putty - sand. Already alternated four times and still can not get a good result. For me, that's the worst part of the hobby.
> 
> I always screw myself up when I have to fill in those microscopic holes that sometimes appear on the puttied surface. I end up placing mass in the surrounding areas and when I try to fix the mess, I just make things worse. :freak:
> 
> Sometimes I have to control myself to stop before covering the entire kit with puty.


I hear you about sanding and putty and sanding and putty and sand...etc.
It seemed like a never ending battle until I discovered Aves Apoxy Sculpt. This multi-use two part epoxy putty works great for seam filling. You mix equal parts together then roll a small amount between your fingers to form little a little 'snake'. Then you work the snake into the seam, smooth it out with water (or Aves Safety Solvent). When it dries there are no pinholes or voids and it sands beautifully. You can also use it to add details and features to your models. It has almost no odor and its advertised as non-toxic. The only down side is that it takes 4-24 hour to completely cure depending on how much is applied. Maybe for your next model?

Here is a link:
http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php...&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

I'm still using the 1lb jars bought about two years ago.

Not trying to be an advert for Aves, just wanted to help a fellow modeler. Still enjoying this very cool build!

Regards,
Matt


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Matt!

Thanks a lot, buddy. I really appreciated your help. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I was in my garage a few minutes ago priming the kit. Hope that's gonna be the last try. :freak:

Since I am using Tamiya white primer and the kit is also white, I wonder whether I could use the primer as a paint and just give a finish coat directly onto it to seal the kit.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

When "puttying" and sanding a flat surface what do you guys use to fill those nano-craters (maybe caused by bubbles) that sometimes you perceive on the surface of the putty when sanding it?

I saw a guy that "paint" the local with glue. Sorry for the ignorance, but is that a common process?


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*In the search of surface and seam line imperfections.*

After the last coat of Tamiya white primer.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

*In the search of surface and seam line imperfections.*









As you guys can see, pictures are a great auxiliary instrument for visual inspections, mainly when the kit is painted white.

Some work remains to be done here.


----------



## Spockr

Looking good Fernando! :thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for the kind words Matt, but those seam lines are a little far to be decent. 

OK, the camera shows more than it can be seen at naked eyes but, anyway, I'm gonna try to improve the general appearance.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Well friends, after applying putty to correct imperfections in photos above (I dilute the mass with a solvent and applied with a brush to fill the porous surface more easily), I sanded the kit with sandpaper 400, 600 and 1200 grit.

And that is enough. I didn't take pictures because I know that there will always be imperfeições and there comes a time that, or you give a step by finished and go on, or you will never finished the kit at all. Well, at least this is what happens to me and that is the moment. I wouldn't like to be attempted by pictures in close view.

So, I'm gonna paint the model, glue the rudder and canopies and that is it.

Pictures soon. Thanks for watching. :wave:


----------



## Trekkriffic

I lile how it looks in primer Fernando. I'd give it a gloss or semi-gloss clearcoat and call it good.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Trekkriffic!

It's exactly what I'm gonna do. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

After the finishing touches with putty and primer, I sanded the model with 600 sandpaper and then a 1200 to get a velvety surface. At the moment I'm doing the finishing of the edges of the air intakes, which I intend to have the silver color slightly covering their external parts.

Tomorrow I'll glue the rudder and apply wax Future on the clear parts. While they are drying, I will apply a coat of semi-gloss sealer on the kit, and then work on the stand.


----------



## DCH10664

Fernando Mureb said:


> Well friends, after applying putty to correct imperfections in photos above (I dilute the mass with a solvent and applied with a brush to fill the porous surface more easily), I sanded the kit with sandpaper 400, 600 and 1200 grit.
> 
> And that is enough. I didn't take pictures because I know that there will always be imperfeições and there comes a time that, or you give a step by finished and go on, or you will never finished the kit at all. Well, at least this is what happens to me and that is the moment. I wouldn't like to be attempted by pictures in close view.
> 
> So, I'm gonna paint the model, glue the rudder and canopies and that is it.
> 
> Pictures soon. Thanks for watching. :wave:


While it seems that you are not 100% satisfied with this model. I have to say that this is the absolute best build of this ship that I have ever seen !!! Your attention to detail, lighting, and painting are excellent ! You should be holding your head high and proud for this one ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks DCH10664. It's very kind of you. :thumbsup:

The situation now is:

- I gave a coat of Future wax on the canopies and glued them in place.

- Also, I gave a coat of Future on the parts of the stand and painted the back of the base in Tamiya steel.

- The aircraft (flyingsub?) received a coat of Tamiya semi-gloss and is drying.

I'm gonna have to make a trip this weekend. So, pictures only on monday. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hello everybody!

After 20 days since my last post and almost 30 days since the latest photos, I finally finished this kit!!

I opened another thread with the same title, for people who are only interested in the images of the FV-C "Voyager" finished. If this is your case, click here.

Well, despite what I stated in my post # 124, I have not stopped trying to reach the perfect painting job of the model. 

I just stopped the circular process of putying-sanding-priming-taking pictures when the spray paint has run out. As we have difficulties to get quality paints quickly around here, I had to give up, thanks God. The wife kept calling me "you grumpy, sclerotic, mule" and all. 

The worst thing is that all the extra time and spray cans may not have improved the overall look of the kit at all or hardly beyond 10%. This disease has a name: it is called O.C.D. (Obsessive-compulsive disorder). :freak:

Well, it is already past ...

Anyway, thank you all for following the thread and for the words of encouragement. :thumbsup:

Bellow you have the final pictures. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## Fernando Mureb




----------



## starmanmm

Post 121, Pic 1 & 2... not clear what is the purpose of the tube at the interior base of the tail?


----------



## Richard Baker

That is some beautiful work!
Quick question- are the photos flipped? IIRC standard navigation lights have the red on the left wing and green on the right wing...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

starmanmm said:


> Post 121, Pic 1 & 2... not clear what is the purpose of the tube at the interior base of the tail?


This was an idea I borrow Trekkrifc and is intended to serve as a plug for a support rod, so that the kit is completely free to receive the paint from any angle.

After the work was finished I closed the hole and painted the rudder.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Richard Baker said:


> That is some beautiful work!
> Quick question- are the photos flipped? IIRC standard navigation lights have the red on the left wing and green on the right wing...


*AAAAAAARRRGH!!!!!!* :freak::freak:

Waaaaaah, snif  - why nobody told me?


----------



## Fernando Mureb

This can only be a curse. ALL my kits had problems with lighting: LED lights fading after the kit be glued, circuit board toasted in the last from dozens soldering points, navigation lights reversed (and I'm a former Navy Officer - now, THIS is a shame!)...


----------



## Spockr

Simply post mirror image photos and all will be perfect!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

If I told you that in Brazil the aircrafts have the nav lights inverted, would you guys believed?

DON'T ANSWER!!!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Richard Baker said:


> That is some beautiful work!
> Quick question- are the photos flipped? IIRC standard navigation lights have the red on the left wing and green on the right wing...


If you were a good boy, you would have kept a condescending (albeit embarrassing) silence. 

I'm gonna tell mom...


----------



## Richard Baker

I was really hoping the images had been flipped- I have done that before when editing to post...
The difference is one few pay much attention to- I design Police Car graphics at work and they follow a similar pattern- Blue on right and Red on the left. If you ever look at the cars on TV & movies, most are wrong. Most of the time the cars seen are just stock with magnetic badges and a self contained light unit stuck on the roof (all you need in a typical shot). The production crews just assemble them without thinking about how they orient. 
I have been watching this build with interest- I really love the tail illumination you did. I wish I had noticed the nav lights earlier and said something before it got too far, but it was not until you posted the dramatic finished shots in the dark environment it jumped out at me...


----------



## Fernando Mureb

It's all right, Richard. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

The fact that the events have made ​​it quite clear in my last assemblies, is that I am very inattentive.

As I mentioned above, early, with this kit, I had mounted the wings reversed when I did the dry fit. I was alerted by Trekkrific, but had already made the holes for the LEDs of navigation lights and to lighting the rudder.

Well, the holes for the nav lights were perfectly aligned vertically, as is proper. Occurs that the wings, in the wrong position, are slightly tilted upward. But when in the right position, they are paralel to the soil and, in this way, the holes ended up in an angle relative to one another.

Although I have done all the work to close the incorrect holes of the rudder's lighting and have done others on the others halves of the wings, I did not notice the error with nav lights but in the final assembly.

However, at that time, I had no courage to redo it. Perhaps if I had done so, I would had an opportunity to realize my mistake with the nav lights colors. :wave:


----------

