# Hazed windows question.



## Rns1016 (Dec 29, 2011)

Alright now this mistake I did was beyond dumb. I painted my Shelby GT-350R, and I noticed ( after I put the windows on ) the inside needed to be touched up. So I just put my pressure to pretty much nothing and sprayed the areas that needed to be done.

I kinda figured I would get some over spray on the windows ( but was too much in a rush ) so I figured I would use enamel thinner to clean the paint off the windows ( I know I'm a tool ) now the windows are hazed over. 

Anyway I can get somewhat of the haze gone? Maybe use clear nail polish? Any ideas? I have so much to learn yet.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Future acrylic? That should smooth the surface.


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## Rns1016 (Dec 29, 2011)

SteveR said:


> Future acrylic? That should smooth the surface.


Thank you very much, I'll give that a try.


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## terryr (Feb 11, 2001)

I would try oven cleaner painted on with a cotton swab first.


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## Rns1016 (Dec 29, 2011)

terryr said:


> I would try oven cleaner painted on with a cotton swab first.


Really? Maybe I'll do a small spot to see how it comes out. I mean it can't get any worse. And if it does then I'll just buy some window tint paint and tint the windows black. 

Thank you...


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## CorvairJim (Dec 16, 2011)

I hate those "Head Slap" situations, when you do something were you really wish you'd thought it through better before you jumped in with both feet. Don't sweat it - it happens to everyone from time to time.

Here's what I'd do: First, try to get the glass out of the body without breaking it. That way it's easier to work on and there's less chance of damaging the body. Then, polish it with fine rubbing compound, progressing up through light automotive polish to liquid car wax. I can't see applying anything over the fogged surface doing anything but sealing the damage and I'm afraid that oven cleaner would just make matters worse. I know it's safe on regular styrene, but I've never tried it on clear plastic that's already been damaged. Ihe future, try masking off the areas you don't want to get paint on!

Here's a link to part of a photo album I've posted on another website that I'm active on, Motortopia.com (The BEST 1:1 car website on the internet!). It shows how a friend of mine who does magnificent restorations on old annual kit "Glue Bombs" goes about rescuing damaged glass. Click on the link, then follow the photos on the Motortopia website through the next several shots using the "Next>" buttons on that webpage.

http://www.motortopia.com/car-pictu..._II_Convertible_-_22JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-376623

I sure hope this helps.


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## scottnkat (May 11, 2006)

Pete McKay had a great video on here where he spille superglue and plastic glue on windshields to really mess then up, then by simply using progressively finer and finer grades of paper, he sanded them, then polished them to the point that he made them clear again. It only took about 10 minutes from wreck to clear again. I checked, however, and his youtube account is now closed so the video is no longer available. But this is a valid option for you still.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

The complete Future article!
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

(good for minor scratches on canopies, anyway)


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## CorvairJim (Dec 16, 2011)

THANK YOU STEVE! I'll be referring to that article a few times in the weeks to come. I'm finally going to try the stuff out fo myself. I've heard so many good things about it, but this article is the first place I've really seen the subject covered in depth.


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## Rns1016 (Dec 29, 2011)

Thank you guys for all your help. I guess that newly opened Harbor Freight a few blocks from my house is going to love me.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

For the love of God - DON'T use floor wax (FUTURE) on your models!!! This stuff is not made for styrene, and causes chemical reactions with other modeling products. It's difficult to work with, and makes a mess if you're not careful. Avoid this at ALL costs! Jim is right - use Turtle Wax brand rubbing compound if it's eaten into the plastic itself. I use canola oil on the tip of a cotton swab to remove superglue hazing. It works everytime, and it makes the windows clearer inside. Then I wash the residue off with soap, and hot water, and it's as good as new! But if this is too deep, the rubbing compound removes the haziness, and damage slowly without destroying it. Turtle Wax brand polishing compound will take the scratches out from the rubbing compound. This makes for a highly polished surface. Use a cotton swabs, or a cotton swab with an old T-shirt piece over it to polish it. This makes it without scoring, or scarring the surface. You can also use Brasso, but that's only for surfaces that can be rubbed real hard with a terry cloth towel. You can also buy Meguiars' No.7 polish to make it glossy again too. This you have to rub until it's clear (no more tan colour) when polishing. You have to rub slowly to get the results you want, but this takes a little finesse, and a lot of patience to work the way you want. It has oils in it that have to be removed with a rag, or tissue. You won't be able to wash this off soap, and water - it won't come off. I hope THIS will help you.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Future is not floor wax. It is clear acrylic. Treat it like clear paint: dip into it, brush it on or airbrush it. Do not treat it like wax, do not ask it to behave like wax ... since it is not wax.

I was not suggesting you do any rubbing or smoothing with it ... I was suggesting that if surface roughness is your problem, try coating the part with future to give it a smooth, clear surface. As a test, try sanding some clear sprue to make it rough then dip it into future. Let the future dry.

It's not wax.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

SteveR said:


> Future is not floor wax. It is clear acrylic. Treat it like clear paint: dip into it, brush it on or airbrush it. Do not treat it like wax, do not ask it to behave like wax ... since it is not wax.
> 
> It's not wax.


Actually, it is! It's made to be used on floors to make them shine. It has acrylic in it, but it also has other chemicals in it to make it easy to wax your floor. The acrylic in it is to give it durability, and shine. Otherwise you'd just be painting your floor with acrylic clearcoat. This isn't 100% acrylic, just an acrylic base. Also worth mentioning, not all acrylic is solvent based. It can be waterbased as well. Meaning that this stuff can make a mess of plastic, as some houshold cleaners, and disinfectants as well as many chemicals will say "DO NOT USE ON PLASTIC, BARE WOOD, OR PAINTED SURFACES". This is because it can mar them, or soften them. It can even discolour, or stain them. This is waterbased, but it dries hard, and takes alcohol to remove it once dried completely. Most waterbased acrylics will be hard as a rock once completely dry. This doesn't mean that it's safe to use on models.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Rns, don't listen to us. Just do the research and test for yourself. Or you could check out these links:

http://actionfleetunlimited.com/techniques/finishing1.html
http://gator896.hostgator.com/~sabc/howto/matt_01/matt_01.htm
http://www.j-aircraft.com/faq/future_floor_polish.htm
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=49602
http://www.ndrr.com/rmr_faq/models/Future-Floor-Wax.htm
http://www.thereplicapropforum.com/f9/airbrushing-future-acrylic-81523/
http://www.squidoo.com/thinning-acrylic-paints


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

It's still not formulated for models - no matter how many people use it.  The link at the very bottom of your post even says "Clear floor polish". It's for polishing floors, and it leaves a dull semi-gloss satin finish in one of the photos posted in that link.


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

Jiminy H. Christmas on a popsicle stick! Future is perfectly safe for models. Modelers have been using it as a glosscoat for decades, and no one has EVER had a problem with it. It's a floor POLISH, not a floor WAX! Somebody seems to think "polish" and "wax" mean the same thing. Future was originally marketed with the commercials specifically stating it was NOT a wax, hence, "no waxy, yellow build-up." I think someone's never tried it, and is just being a scared alarmist. We used it in the model shops here in Hollywood all the time. Geesh!


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## Revo (Apr 25, 2007)

Gentlemen, its obvious that there are multiple opinions, I believe you have answered the question so lets try to keep things constructive going forward if there is any further discussion on this topic. Thank you.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Quick newbie question but how do you thin it? Can you paint acrylic and enamel over it once it is dried? Last one is Pledge brand ok to use?


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## seaQuest (Jan 12, 2003)

Future requires no thinning, however, clean your airbrush IMMEDIATELY after spraying your subject with (believe it or not) 409 glass cleaner, or similar product. I used to get a knock-off brand at 99 Cent Only Store and it worked like a charm.


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

seaQuest said:


> Future requires no thinning, however, clean your airbrush IMMEDIATELY after spraying your subject with (believe it or not) 409 glass cleaner, or similar product. I used to get a knock-off brand at 99 Cent Only Store and it worked like a charm.


Well I have a ton of windex around so I should be good! Thanks for the tip.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I have used Future for all the aircraft I built last year. The canopies were dipped and coated in Future and came out brilliant. I even did a few car windows as well. It may not be labeled as a modeling product, but then many of the items and tools we use are not labeled as modeling tools.

This canopy was dipped in future and came out clearer than before. The whole plane was sprayed with Future for the decals and then dullcoated with Testors dullcoat.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Tools can be adapted to a particular use - chemicals on the other hand can't! You can use, or make tools for a specific use, but chemicals that can destroy your model, or its' paint is another story altogether.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Dyonisis said:


> Tools can be adapted to a particular use - chemicals on the other hand can't! You can use, or make tools for a specific use, but chemicals that can destroy your model, or its' paint is another story altogether.


I have not heard of anyones model being destroyed by using Future. I don't know why you say don't use it? Many thousands of modelers have used Future for many years. Other chemicals can not be adapted for model use? Really? Westleys whitewall bleach, brake fluid, Easy Off oven cleaner, and Simple Green (to name a few) have been used for cleaning or stripping paint off plastic and resin models, again, for years. 

Chris, I respect your opinions, but telling people not to use something just because you say it will destroy their model when thousands have been doing it for 20+ years is a little pompus.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

robiwon said:


> I have not heard of anyones model being destroyed by using Future. I don't know why you say don't use it? Many thousands of modelers have used Future for many years. Other chemicals can not be adapted for model use? Really? Westleys whitewall bleach, brake fluid, Easy Off oven cleaner, and Simple Green (to name a few) have been used for cleaning or stripping paint off plastic and resin models, again, for years.
> 
> Chris, I respect your opinions, but telling people not to use something just because you say it will destroy their model when thousands have been doing it for 20+ years is a little pompus.


Pompus? Do you mean "Arrogant"? Not really. Just because a few people - not thousands use floor polish doesn't mean that everyone will have good results with it.  I used it for its' intended purpose back in the day when it was new, but never for models. Most of those household chemicals that you use on resin, and plastic models can ruin them if you're not careful. That too is a practice I don't endorse. I've heard of stripping paint with brake fluid, which I've tried but with no results. This is why I say don't believe everything you read, or try something just because a few others have. There's no guarantee that this won't soften, or ruin the model you're working with especially since not all models are made from the same polystyrene, or the same formula of plastic. Have you ever heard of "take this with a grain of salt"? That applies here too. I don't endorse using rogue methods of finishing just because one person swears by it. Not everyone can use the same technique, or tool to do the same job as not everyone has the same level of skill required to achieve the desired results. This is all I'm saying, and don't endorse any practice that doesn't sound safe, and sane! 

Trust me - there IS a method to my madness. It isn't without its' reasons. I just don't want others to ruin their models, and wonder why it didn't work for them. Example: One person suggests alcohol. Another suggest windex. Someone else on another modeling forum suggests window cleaner for cars. Again - another one suggests ammonia. Which is correct? See what I mean? No one can agree on the same thing, which is why I say DON'T DO IT just because someone else says to - show what you've done, and how - not just say "use this, I do." Otherwise your words don't fall onto deaf ears. We use things that we believe will do the job, but this isn't a practice I encourage, or endorse! No matter what the media you're using. I honestly wouldn't suggest using a lot of the chemicals you guys have used to remove paint on plastic models as most of these are formulated for metal surfaces. The only thing I can think of that is safe for plastic is alcohol as it evaporates without leaving a residue, or softening the plastic. Wax and silicone remover is safe as it too evaporates without leaving a residue, or softening plastic surfaces. Otherwise I don't know what to use to remove old paint. I've only used the latter of the two to soften old enamel, and acrylic paints on models. There's no need to be nasty, or insinuate personality traits bestowed upon the other members here - I'm only trying to look out for others so that they don't make the same mistakes I've made as well as others I've seen do on this, and other forums. 

~ Chris​


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

RNS, if you can't pop the window out for polishing, tape the body around the window, leaving only the window exposed. Grab some model car polish like "the Treatment" or any good car polish from the auto store. Use a soft cloth and polish it in small circular motions. Just a small drop of polish is all that is needed. When it dries it will turn white (probably) buff this off with a dry cloth. You may need to do this a few times. Each session should bring a nice new sparkle to your glass.


"For the love of God - DON'T use floor wax (FUTURE) on your models!!! This stuff is not made for styrene, and causes chemical reactions with other modeling products. It's difficult to work with, and makes a mess if you're not careful. Avoid this at ALL costs!"

?

Guys, it's safe to use Future. Like any new technique or tool, using it takes practice. Modelers all over the world have been using Future for years. The majority being military and aircraft modelers. It is a great base to lay down on flat paints to prepare for adding decals. It prevents silvering over the flat paint. After this, models are dull coated to achive the flat finish. Modelers have have been doing this for years. It also makes clear parts appear to be thinner and clearer. Dipping a window in Future also helps prevent fogging after being glued in place. For car modelers there have been many "How To" articles in SAE and others on how to use it.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

"Try it on scrap first" is the standard caveat, as is "YMMV."


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

robiwon said:


> "For the love of God - DON'T use floor wax (FUTURE) on your models!!! This stuff is not made for styrene, and causes chemical reactions with other modeling products. It's difficult to work with, and makes a mess if you're not careful. Avoid this at ALL costs!"


 I've already said my peace - I'm done here.


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