# Consolidated Flying Sub details threads



## steve123

*Front Bulkhead (FS-1)*

Dave you can move this if needed.

I'm having a problem with the color of the front of the flyingsub...

I always thought of it a black...but all the info I've seen is steel/aluninium.

What have you guys done with yours?

Steve


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## Seashark

I believe it's steel/aluminum with blue around the windows which the stripes connect to.


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## jbond

The only time I've seen it as black is a badly painted version of the kit as artwork on the Monogram reissue of the Aurora kit. It might read as gray in some photos simply because you're not getting the glint of the metal from every angle but it is aluminum with blue window frames.


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## steve123

I first painted my little FS-1 that way..I hated it...I guess I'm stuck on the black...version...I grew up with the Aurora sub, maybe that's it...

Steve


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## steve123

I split the difference,..I used metalizer titanium....

Steve


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## Dave Metzner

I have a couple frame grabs that show one of the shooting miniatures in scenes from the series - The front bulkhead appears to be an aluminum color - not bright silver - The blue stripes connect the blue trim on the top and bottom of the hull - the blue does not surround the windows in the pics that I have.

Dave


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## djnick66

There are some photos of one of the filming miniatures on Flikr or Photo Bucket that show the front area as silver.


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## steve123

That was going to be my next question, Dave..I might not run the blue to connect the trim strips. I did my little one just like that. I ended up re-doing the trim...It must be remembering the Aurora box top,...nothing else looks right...

Thanks guys!

Steve


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## Seashark

PM Moderator said:


> I have a couple frame grabs that show one of the shooting miniatures in scenes from the series - The front bulkhead appears to be an aluminum color - not bright silver - The blue stripes connect the blue trim on the top and bottom of the hull - the blue does not surround the windows in the pics that I have.
> 
> Dave


I guess it depends on which model you have pics of. The ones I have, which were collected from threads in this very forum, show the blue trim around the windows. 

Could you post your pics? I'm very interested in seeing some possible variations in paint scheme.


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## steve123

"soitainly"...I'll do it late tonight or in the morning...
I'll shoot the little one and the titanium on the big one in progress...I still might go to black....just not liking the look so far...

Steve


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## starseeker

*Detail Differences Between Flying Sub Miniatures*

I thought I’d start a thread comparing the different flying sub miniatures. What I’ve sorted out to this point is far from complete, but it is a start, and with luck maybe there enough people out there with information to fill in the gaps or correct my mistakes. As with Seaview color thread, I’ll come back to this first post from time to time and edit in any new information into this summary.
There were three different sizes of Flying Sub miniature. 
There was at least one made of the smallest. At, 9.5" wide and 9" long (9.25 long with the tail fins) it was built to fit into the hangar on the 8.5' Seaview miniature. 
There were at least two 18" x 17.5" long (18" long with the tail fins) miniatures, built to fit into the hangar on the 17 1/4' Seaview.
There were at least four (some sources say six) 36" x 35" (36" long with tail fins) miniatures built for specific filming purposes.

9" #1
Shape: up curved wingtips as per blueprints for 18"
Top Hatch: raised docking ring
Bottom Hatch: raised docking ring
Intakes: small holes for wires outside intakes
Spotlights: + grid
Exhaust: circular with +
Color: light blue strakes
Interior:
Details: Thick strakes	

18" #1 (Basehart publicity photo version)
Shape: flat wing tip, top strakes gently curved. Does not match shapes on 18" blueprint.
Top Hatch: no hatch
Bottom Hatch:
Intakes: no intakes
Spotlights: no spotlights
Exhausts:
Color: dark blue strakes
Interior: none	
Details: a study model?

18" #2 (Underwater hero)
Shape: flat wing tip, top strakes gently curved. Does not match shapes on 18" blueprint.
Top Hatch: raised docking ring, over scale hatch
Bottom Hatch:
Intakes: small holes for wires outside intakes
Exhausts:
Spotlights: + grid
Interior: rudimentary lighted interior, no girder above viewports
Color: dark blue trim, very wide blue stripe between window and spotlights
Details: one hole for wire under each wingtip. One hole for wires at top front and three at trailing edge between top fins. Was fitted with bubble generator. Red/orange lights inside exhausts. Front and rear wire can be seen lowering miniature from white light version of the 17' Seaview hangar bay. 

36" #1 (Landing gear version)
Shape: flat wing tip, flat top extends fwd, steeply curving top strakes. Strakes match 18" blueprints; wingtips do not.
Top Hatch: raised docking ring
Bottom Hatch: raised docking ring
Intakes: no holes outside intakes
Spotlights: x grid
Exhausts:
Interior: girders
Details: hatches for remote manipulator arm, landing gear, and tail hook, 21 holes for wires around top perimeter. Back end open for wiring, mechanicals.

36" #2 (Underwater Hero)
Shape: flat wing tip, flat top extends fwd, steeply curving top strakes. Strakes match 18" blueprints; wingtips do not.
Top Hatch: raised docking ring
Bottom Hatch: raised docking ring
Intakes: Two holes for wires each side inside intakes, outside windows, partly covered by blue window trim.
Spotlights: + grid
Exhausts: circular with + grid and lights (red or orange glow)
Color: light blue
Interior: Interior with girders visible inside viewports, 3 (?) figures.
Details: Opening panel below viewports, no landing gear hatches. 36" underwater hero? Bubble generator. One small raised shape centered on either side of rear hatch. Round opening top center rear hatch. Heavily weathered. Two wire holes only along top center, front and back. Seen through windows leaving Seaview.

36" #3 (Bill Cotter’s, Flying hero #3 of 3 [?]?)
Shape: flat wing tip, flat top extends fwd, steeply curving top strakes. Strakes match 18" blueprints; wingtips do not.
Top Hatch: painted docking ring
Bottom Hatch: no bottom docking ring
Intakes: 
Spotlights: + grid
Exhausts: +grid, red lights
Color: light blue 
Interior:
Details: large hatch between top fins. Was fitted with smoke generator? No holes for wires on top surface. Miniature seen in home movie in Left Handed Man?

36" #4 (Bob Burns, Flying Hero #1 of 3[?]))
Shape: flat wing tip, flat top extends fwd, steeply curving top strakes. Strakes match 18" blueprints; wingtips do not.
Top Hatch: raised docking ring
Bottom Hatch: 
Intakes: none Holes for wires outside vent locations
Spotlights: none (takeoff sequence shows flat yellow hull outside windows)
Exhausts: circular
Interior: none
Color: light blue strakes, red caulk around windows. Orange-yellow hull on screen.
Interior: none
Details: Eyebolt for Lydecker rig between front windows. Windows are mirrors. Large hatch between top fins. Was fitted with smoke generator and white lights in jet exhausts.

36" #5 (Flying hero number 2 of [3?])
Shape: flat wing tip, flat top extends fwd, steeply curving top strakes. Strakes match 18" blueprints; wingtips do not.
Top Hatch: very raised docking ring (inaccurate restoration?)
Bottom Hatch: 
Intakes: small holes outside intakes
Exhausts:
Spotlights: x grid 
Details:

36" #6 
Shape: flat wing tip, flat top extends fwd, steeply curving top strakes. Strakes match 18" blueprints; wingtips do not.
Top Hatch: raised docking ring
Bottom Hatch:
Intakes:
Spotlights:
Exhausts: circular exhaust with a central tube supported by +piece
Color:
Details: 21 holes for wires around top perimeter


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## Dave Metzner

I stand corrected.
The pics I have DO show Blue around the windows and it appears that the divider between the windows is also blue......
These are screen grabs so the quality is not the greatest.. but it seems fairly plain to see that the area between the blue stripes - around the windows is Blue


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## falcon49xxxx

Here is one........


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## starseeker

Aluminum. Seems to me that there are variations between miniatures. I've only seen the blue stripes on one miniature that I can think of, and I believe that it was an 18". They're all muddled together in my brain right now. Whichever it was it looked very ill-painted. The thin window frames themselves are often blue (except one red). I am trying to sort out color details but it's a work in progress. If you have any good information on colors or other details between the miniatures, please feel free to also post them on my Detail Differences between FS miniatures thread that I just started.


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## falcon49xxxx

You missed the 36" photo of the back with the port hole on the hatch.






http://www.freewebs.com/scifivehiclevault/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=19160048


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## idMonster

Some more screencaps.

HTH

Gordon


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## Antimatter

Are the intakes the same color?


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## Dave Metzner

Four pics of three different miniatures - The one at left is one of the flying minis - apparently not the one in bob Burn's collection as his has a yellow front bulkhead without any "intake" details. the blue around the windows shows up pretty well on that shot...hard to tell if the bulkhead is silver or yellow in that pic...
The two in the middle show Aluminum or silver colored front bulkhead with Blue around the windows - those two pics are probably the same shooting miniature not the flying mini though...
The last pic is the miniature with all the mechanical stuff for the landing gear and the grapling claw - that existing miniature is in pretty rough shape - quite a bit of the front bulkhead of thet miniature is pretty screwed up... Some pieces of it are missing...
The "intakes" on all the pics I've seen seem to be the same color as the front bulkhead around them - Aluminum if the bulkhead is aluminum or silver colored...

Dave


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## steve123

I'm going to be a heretic...No blue around the windows for me.

Steve


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## Steve244

Mine (both monogram and moebius) will be black. It just looks better to me...

I'm not big on blue floors either.

I only ever saw VTTBOTS in color once on a neighbor's TV as a kid. It didn't look right.


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## starseeker

I haven't gotten to color very much yet. Most of the photos I have of the miniatures are in b&w, and so far my main emphasis has just been trying to sort out any keys that label identify the different miniatures. I do have an excellent color photo what what is supposed to be the 3d of 3 36" flying heros, but it has been restored and is therefore useless. But next up is going back through all the colored photos I can find and seeing if I sort colors from one miniature from another, and then after that watching some DVDs.


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## Wbnemo1

I just compared my paint chip to the Moebius FS1 plastic color, it's pretty much a perfect match to my paint chip ... I have an original( not restored) yellow paint chip from one of the 36" miniatures.... it's really almost school bus yellow
Will


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## WEAPON X

I find this look to be very interesting! What say you fellow members?
In fact the color looks almost identical to interior support beams.


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## falcon49xxxx

The windows are framed in blue,with a dark grey caulking on the inner edge.This inner edge is in the Moebius bulkhead.The supports are a metallic grey.If you look at "The Silent Sabeteur" you can seen that color.


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## steve123

Steve, the Metalizer titanium is not looking right either. It's pretty dark, almost a gunmetal..but it's not right.Yup it's going to be black by tomorrow...

I'll send shots of the two subs before I re-paint though.
Sorry I didn't get them up earlier, crazy day...

Steve


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## falcon49xxxx

*Missing on The Flying Sub*

There is a second cross brace on the back of the chairs that should make a square box.The hatch sould have four screws on the two hinge sides.I made these from plastic rod stock.There is a hole in the center of the wheel on the hatch.


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## steve123

I knew there was a reason I wasn't sleeping....lol

I fixed the chairs...trouble with the color though....

Steve


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## Captain Han Solo

falcon49xxx said:


> There is a second cross brace on the back of the chairs that should make a square box.The hatch sould have four screws on the two hinge sides.I made these from plastic rod stock.There is a hole in the center of the wheel on the hatch.


 
Great Job Alex!!!!


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## falcon49xxxx

steve123 said:


> I knew there was a reason I wasn't sleeping....lol
> 
> I fixed the chairs...trouble with the color though....
> 
> Steve



Pontiac Engine Blue Metallic in the Testors Car Color Enamal Line.


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## steve123

Thank you, I didn't have a feel for the color using the Moebius chart...

I was thinking a light tinted blue/green metallic..

Thank you. 

Steve


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## falcon49xxxx

The painted 36" upper docking ring with drain holes.


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## steve123

HooHoo..a new detail...I thought./..figured it drained around the circumfrence...cool.. I used that same blue on my little sub,...I 'kinda want to go darker...

Steve


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## Captain Han Solo

On the Actual Miniature...NOT THE FULL SIZE SET..the Window/Viewport frames are the Dark Blue...

The full Size set in the above Pic shows the Extra Detail..

So...You can paint it like the Miniature..*OR*...paint it like the full size set..

OR PAINT IT PURPLE WITH REDLINES:thumbsup:

or with Poka Dots..Or...:wave:


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## Captain Han Solo

In Speaking to the Man who has the 3' Flying Sub in his Living Room,(_Yes the actual Miniature_ that has the ugly landing gear and Claw)I can safely say that Chrome Yellow IS NOT THE EXACT COLOR.He doesn't Have a chip, a Piture etc but THE ACTUAL Miniature. Nuff said

By using a Pantone color chart, he has come up with EXACT color matches for all the colors..Which I hope to color Match With Hobby Paints or whatever paints this week....


*Stay Tuned..........*


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## steve123

Paul, I applaud your and Falcon's attention to detail.

I build for _me_. It has to look right to me...I'll be looking at the model for a long time.

You guys are really doing some amazing work.

But no girl ever took me home with her 'cuz I got a color correct on a model...
My hobby buddies and I used to laugh about that...we'd get so into whichever project we were on, But it didn't get us.......hehe...

Perspective.

Steve


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## falcon49xxxx

Steve,It is about building Your model..........


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## steve123

Sorry Pal. It was warm and sunny here today...lol

But for me Close is ok...I can't get the Aurora boxart out of my head.
You guys have done _stellar _work in reproducing the Flying Sub,...I look at mine and want to see a better done version of my old Aurora kit...
Thank you for putting up with me....

Steve


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## Steve H

falcon49xxx said:


> There is a second cross brace on the back of the chairs that should make a square box.The hatch sould have four screws on the two hinge sides.I made these from plastic rod stock.There is a hole in the center of the wheel on the hatch.


I think those chair backs changed from season to season, so do what looks good to you, right?

But maybe I'm just slow today, are you trying to build so it looks just like a filming mini, or are you just trying to be as accurate to...you know, something realisitc?

Because I'm pretty sure that hole in the hatch is just a guide hole for one of the wire runs, not meant to be implied to be an actual feature of the flying sub.

Same as the drain holes in the upper docking ring. I don't think there's any wire runs there (or maybe a couple of the holes), just a way to drain the mini.

Just an opinion, your work looks great! I wish I could build like that...


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## falcon49xxxx

I actually like all the do-da's of the 36" mini,so that's what I want my sub to look like.I like thinking of L.B Abbott and Howard Lydecker playing with their big toys.........alex


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## Steve H

falcon49xxx said:


> I actually like all the do-da's of the 36" mini,so that's what I want my sub to look like.I like thinking of L.B Abbott and Howard Lydecker playing with their big toys.........alex


OK, that's cool, I respect that idea. Not that it matters if I do or not, but I'm glad to understand your goal, fair enough?


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## falcon49xxxx

opinions matter..........thats how we learn.:thumbsup:


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## falcon49xxxx

top ring is done..........


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## Captain Han Solo

steve123 said:


> Sorry Pal. It was warm and sunny here today...lol
> 
> But for me Close is ok...I can't get the Aurora boxart out of my head.
> You guys have done _stellar _work in reproducing the Flying Sub,...I look at mine and want to see a better done version of my old Aurora kit...
> Thank you for putting up with me....
> 
> Steve


 
Nonsense!

It's all good Sir.Have Fun!!!


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## steve123

Falcon, what are those two little dots? One on the top of the nose, and one just forward of the top hatch?

Steve


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## starseeker

Did a little editing of the first post, added some more details.


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## starseeker

falcon49xxx said:


> You missed the 36" photo of the back with the port hloe on the hatch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.freewebs.com/scifivehiclevault/apps/photos/photo.jsp?photoID=19160048


Indeed, I've looked at that picture about 9 times. What the heck is that??? I'm suspecting it has something to do with the bubble generator, access to the valve for the compressed air or something. Nice catch!!


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## Seashark

You really can't judge the hull or trim color based off of underwater shots, there are too many variables that can contribute to miss identification. 

I think your best bet would be to study shots of the known and available miniatures taken _after_ the series. I really wouldn't put much faith in that old film stock to give you a correct color reference.

BTW. I believe that all models of FS-1 had _dark_ blue trim, all the pics I have access to support that. The only time it appears light blue is when it's underwater.


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## starseeker

Seashark said:


> You really can't judge the hull or trim color based off of underwater shots, there are too many variables that can contribute to miss identification.
> 
> I think your best bet would be to study shots of the known and available miniatures taken _after_ the series. I really wouldn't put much faith in that old film stock to give you a correct color reference.
> 
> BTW. I believe that all models of FS-1 had _dark_ blue trim, all the pics I have access to support that. The only time it appears light blue is when it's underwater.


Absolutely true. They were probably lit with 400 million watt lights for the underwater sequences, which is why the blue appears light and the orange yellow appears lemon yellow. At least a couple of the miniatures were restored after filming so they can't be trusted, and still pictures color balance and reproduction can't be trusted either, and the miniatures were weathered and the paint was probably affected by environmental conditions as well. There's no way of knowing the exact color the miniatures started out as, were filmed as, only what colors might remain of them on the miniatures 45 years later. I'm just trying to see if I can spot any obvious color variation between the miniatures. So far I don't think that there were any, at least not major ones.
For a thorough discussion of the color of the FS, see:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=207609


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## falcon49xxxx

steve123 said:


> Falcon, what are those two little dots? One on the top of the nose, and one just forward of the top hatch?
> 
> Steve




They are wire mounting holes and are on the 36" underwater hero miniature.You can just make out the front hole on this pic.


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## Scorpitat

*Ok. What REAL shade of yellow for the FS hull?*

What color yellow would be best for the outer hull of the flying sub? I've seen so many shades in still pics and screen grabs. Anyone have a definitive answer, or a paint chip from the original ship? (LOL) And any blue hints for the docking ring(s)?

Any help appreciated!

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :wave: :woohoo::woohoo:


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## steve123

Here is the front bulkhead in Metalizer Titanium:









I did both subs this way, but I'm going to change the color to black.

Steve


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## Ductapeforever

Blue Angel Yellow FS 13538 and Blue Angel Blue FS 15050. This has been discussed Ad Nausium in many other threads.


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## starseeker

The best of them being:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=207609


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## falcon49xxxx

looking good!


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## steve123

Gull grey with white undersides....Maybe it wouldn't have been shot down painted like that.

Steve


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## Seaview

I'm gonna go with Camel Yellow because of the very slight orange tint. Marigold is my second choice, and plan to use that on my second build (in one of them, I'll be using a JIL Lighting Kit and the other one will have a VooDooFX lighting kit, so I'll get the best of both worlds).
If you want to keep the hull in the same color as the plastic, go with chrome yellow.
Incidentally, I used Blue Angels Yellow on the mini FS-1 that came with the Moebius Seaview last year, and am very pleased with the way it turned out.


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## steve123

Thanks Pal!

Here she is with the bulkhead in black...
I think this is my image of the Sub....

Now I gotts tackle the blue trim...yikes..

Look I managed to hide Jaycee's ashtray...lol









Steve


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## starseeker

I wonder if the FS was painted at all. Back in the olden days, I never heard of anyone painting fiberglass. Paint just didn't adhere that well and didn't stand up to abuse. And still doesn't. Nobody paints their fiberglass boats. Something like the 36" FS that they made at least 6 copies of was more likely started with a layer of colored gelcoat in the mold. Possibly easier than searching for a FS match off the bat would be to compare paint chips to a relatively small # of gel coat samples and trying to match from the large samples to paints. I've found a couple that look really, really close for when (if) I ever get to fiber glassing. Not that it matters that much. The FS looks quite different against the sky, under studio lighting under water, under room lights, and in person, from brilliant yellow to orange yellow, and from a light blue to an almost black blue, from a bright aluminum to a dark steel.


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## falcon49xxxx

starseeker said:


> Indeed, I've looked at that picture about 9 times. What the heck is that??? I'm suspecting it has something to do with the bubble generator, access to the valve for the compressed air or something. Nice catch!!


I dont know,but I'm thinking of making it a porthole..........!?!


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## John P

I'm told it's actually a lemon yellow (rather than a chrome yellow), and a medium blue (Blue Angels Blue is too dark).

My friend at the hobby shop handed me a can of Tamiya yellow spray.


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## steve123

I'm pretty pleased with the way mine looks, I'm not gonna go gerry anderson and make her look like a dirty yellow bulldozer...lol









Steve


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## starseeker

starseeker said:


> I wonder if the FS was painted at all. Back in the olden days, I never heard of anyone painting fiberglass. Paint just didn't adhere that well and didn't stand up to abuse. And still doesn't. Nobody paints their fiberglass boats. Something like the 36" FS that they made at least 6 copies of was more likely started with a layer of colored gelcoat in the mold. Possibly easier than searching for a FS match off the bat would be to compare paint chips to a relatively small # of gel coat samples and trying to match from the large samples to paints. I've found a couple that look really, really close for when (if) I ever get to fiber glassing. Not that it matters that much. The FS looks quite different against the sky, under studio lighting under water, under room lights, and in person, from brilliant yellow to orange yellow, and from a light blue to an almost black blue, from a bright aluminum to a dark steel.


Then again, rather than re-invent the wheel:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=2737707&postcount=133


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## Gary K

Scorpitat said:


> What color yellow would be best for the outer hull of the flying sub? I've seen so many shades in still pics and screen grabs. Anyone have a definitive answer, or a paint chip from the original ship? (LOL) And any blue hints for the docking ring(s)?
> 
> Any help appreciated!


I just posted this in another thread, but here it is again:

For what's it's worth, here's a photo of a chip of gelcoat from the 36" "wheels & claws" Flying Sub miniature, sitting on a Fed Std color chip for Chrome Yellow. To my eyes, at least, the two colors appear fairly close. I've seen both Bob Burns' "flying" Flying Sub and the "wheels & claws" version, and they're both "school bus yellow".

Like I said in another posting, I can't vouch for the accuracy of Tamiya's or Testors or another manufacturer's version of chrome yellow, so I'd double-check any paints against a Fed Std fan deck.

Gary


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## Scorpitat

Steve123, that looks fantastic! What are the can colors you used? I see a Testors can, and I believe a Krylon, or WallyMart brand paint can there. Any insight into your choices? I really DO like it! (Wanna paint mine for me?) LOL

Thanks for the insight everyone. I'll also check out the Blue Angels colors mentioned.

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :woohoo: :wave:


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## steve123

The yellow is Tamiya Chrome yellow, The blue is Testors # 1211 gloss dark
blue...that's over a primer coat of the colorplace flat white primer.
The Tamiya paint is pretty foolproof. Heat the paint in hot water...make sure the model is dust free(I have two cats and a parrot) it can be tough to get a clean surface...lol

Thanks.

Steve


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## Lloyd Collins

What about using yellow primer? Will that darken the brand of choice yellow?


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## GForceSS

Found this photo on Flickr. Thought some might find it useful. MP


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## steve123

Ok, Now if the swiveling office chairs have a little rocket motor, where do the seats egress the aircraft?

I'm thinking little "rescue /danger arrows"

Steve


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## Steve H

steve123 said:


> Ok, Now if the swiveling office chairs have a little rocket motor, where do the seats egress the aircraft?
> 
> I'm thinking little "rescue /danger arrows"
> 
> Steve


Well, I was thinking about that too even before seeing that graphic, so...

I note that the giant braces and frames (helping brace the inner 'pressure vessel' I assume) of the interior seem well spaced for those seats to go straight up, so I was thinking of red 'corner outline' stripes in a rectangle over each seat, implying that there is an explosive bolt hatch. then I would put 'explosive bolt' and 'rescue, cut here' and such signage in the proper places.

Of course I am insane


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## Dave Metzner

DOH! It's Irwin Allen technology! There are NO places for the ejection seats to exit!
There are also no ejection seat rails to guide the office chairs with rockets when the rocket pack fires AND no parachutes on the seats.
Anybody ever see Crane and Nelson carrying parachute packs while boarding FS-1??

I'd guess that whenever somebody trips the rocket pack they and their chair will be splattered all over the ceiling of the Flying Sub (ewwww - that would be messy) ROTFLMAO

Dave


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## steve123

Thanks dave....HeeHee.. after the icy drive this morning Ineeded agood laugh.

Steve


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## Geoff Boaz

PM Moderator said:


> DOH! It's Irwin Allen technology! There are NO places for the ejection seats to exit!
> There are also no ejection seat rails to guide the office chairs with rockets when the rocket pack fires AND no parachutes on the seats.
> Anybody ever see Crane and Nelson carrying parachute packs while boarding FS-1??
> 
> I'd guess that whenever somebody trips the rocket pack they and their chair will be splattered all over the ceiling of the Flying Sub (ewwww - that would be messy) ROTFLMAO
> 
> Dave


It was mandatory SOP to carry a parachute upon boarding the the Flying Sub.. just in case the ejection seat was used, they needed something to cover up the mess. :woohoo:


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## Steve H

PM Moderator said:


> DOH! It's Irwin Allen technology! There are NO places for the ejection seats to exit!
> There are also no ejection seat rails to guide the office chairs with rockets when the rocket pack fires AND no parachutes on the seats.
> Anybody ever see Crane and Nelson carrying parachute packs while boarding FS-1??
> 
> I'd guess that whenever somebody trips the rocket pack they and their chair will be splattered all over the ceiling of the Flying Sub (ewwww - that would be messy) ROTFLMAO
> 
> Dave


Well, you see....the parachute is stored under the seat cushion, and there are these gyroscopes that stablize the seat to make sure it shoots up thru the blowout panel overhead, and then.....um...

Yeah, that picture is pretty foolish. I also question the idea of considering the rather crude 'waldos' that the effects shop made as 'real' when in fact they would likely be a bit more elegant and practical. 

Besides, we all know that in case of control malfunction or unrecoverable damage, the Flying Sub will stay aloft long enough to don the included onboard parachutes, stagger back to the aft hatch, open it and jump out, right?

(and man, those were the WORST fake parachute packs I've EVER seen. They looked like some kid's attempt to fake up a pack using seatbelts and a pillow...)

ETA: I always assumed that small box on the back of the pilot seats had something to do with the controls, because it's pretty clear it has to be a 'fly by wire' setup...yes, yes, unintended joke considering the Lydecker flying rig.


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## Richard Baker

> It was mandatory SOP to carry a parachute upon boarding the the Flying Sub.. just in case the ejection seat was used, they needed something to cover up the mess


Maybe that is what the drain holes were for...

.


----------



## Dave Metzner

Yep FLY BY WIRE! the FS-1 would fly right along the wire!
LOL!
Dave


----------



## steve123

Fly "Down" wire....lol

Do you think those guys practiced in the backyard using clothesline?
How long do you think it will be before somebody posts a Flying Sub Model sliiiding down a wire...?
_And now that we have totally highjacked poor Falcon's thread. Sorry pal.._
Steve


----------



## Antimatter

falcon49xxx said:


> top ring is done..........


Weren't the 2 holes in the hull for the wires?


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Yes,they are on the 36" underwater hero mini...........here are the mising screws I made from rod stock.


----------



## JohnGuard

GForceSS said:


> Found this photo on Flickr. Thought some might find it useful. MP


wow! this is great! where can i get these plans???


( i promise not to sell them to a foreign country! )


----------



## Dave Metzner

Those are Fred Barr's drawings they are in his book.
S.S.R.N Seaview Technical Manual Revised Edition

I don't know if the book is still in print... the copyright date on the copy I have is 2005

Maybe somebody out there knows if the book is still available...

Dave


----------



## Antimatter

I'll bet that someone makes a claw and landing wheels to go on their FS. Any takers?


----------



## Wbnemo1

wheels and tires...claw...you bet I will
Will


----------



## Wbnemo1

falcon49xxx said:


> There is a second cross brace on the back of the chairs that should make a square box.The hatch sould have four screws on the two hinge sides.I made these from plastic rod stock.There is a hole in the center of the wheel on the hatch.


I noted something... while you're right on there being four straight slot screws, the hole in the center of the hatch wheel is, on my borrowed original piece, a raised detail, not a hole, at least not on the 36" versions. just what I noted anyway... supose it could be a hole on the 18" mini, but I believe you already stated you were going for the 36" version on this model.
Cheers,
Will


----------



## scotpens

Maybe the rockets on the ejector packs fire upwards -- and the seats, pedestal and all, punch out through the BOTTOM!

Makes as much sense as any of the other wacky ideas about the FS having ejection seats.


----------



## Steve H

PM Moderator said:


> Those are Fred Barr's drawings they are in his book.
> S.S.R.N Seaview Technical Manual Revised Edition
> 
> I don't know if the book is still in print... the copyright date on the copy I have is 2005
> 
> Maybe somebody out there knows if the book is still available...
> 
> Dave


....Revised edition? 2005?

The deuce you say!

That's the most recent 'Barr' sighting I've ever heard of! Glad he's still 'in the life' as it were!


----------



## Wbnemo1

hey all,
Fred Barr is fine, I talk to him at least once a week now, he recently came over to the shop and hung out a bit.
Will


----------



## Captain Han Solo

You Know, We all have a Laugh at Irwin Allen's expense,But I gotta voice a few things....

A few Facts that some of us don't know..

Irwin Allen had Four(4) Sci-Fi shows on the big three(CBS,ABC,NBC).
They were HIGHLY rated Shows..In Partiular, the First Season of Voyage.YES there were other Producers who did the same thing..BUT..they were NOT Sci-Fi......

Allen had to actually "Dummy up" His programs so the General "Viewing audicence".Could watch the Shows with out Much thought:freak:...So his Programs didn't suffer the "Ratings ax"..

All of his Programs started out with a Lot of thought behind the Vehicles, but after the networks cutting the budget..ETC...well you get the Idea

He must have done Something Right..All us Model nerds are Building his Vehicles ...*40 SOMETHING YEARS LATER.....*


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Wbnemo1 said:


> I noted something... while you're right on there being four straight slot screws, the hole in the center of the hatch wheel is, on my borrowed original piece, a raised detail, not a hole, at least not on the 36" versions. just what I noted anyway... supose it could be a hole on the 18" mini, but I believe you already stated you were going for the 36" version on this model.
> Cheers,
> Will


Hey Will.yes the center of the piece should be higher,but I thought what the hell,I wish I could post the picture I am using,but it's too big.there is a way off center hole in it,so I just drilled it in center.


----------



## Wbnemo1

Cool,
btw, I'm thinking that way off center hole is a air bubble in the resin casting lol
Cheers,

Will


----------



## Steve H

Wbnemo1 said:


> hey all,
> Fred Barr is fine, I talk to him at least once a week now, he recently came over to the shop and hung out a bit.
> Will


Well! That's good to hear, please pass on my regards and best wishes, and thank him for his work in support of Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea!

I didn't think anything BAD had happened to him, just the usual thing that goes on: He's all afire with his research and publishing, then life rears its head and he has to drop it all and just pay the bills, you know?

Or the more sad "why am I wasting my time with this junk" that sometimes happens, the burnout, the sense of loneliness that comes from being one of the 'ten percenters' (the people in any fandom who actually PRODUCE and WORK at it, not just sit around)

So, that's cool, glad he's OK! But does anyone know for sure if Seaview Soundings issue 4 ever came out? I was really looking forward to his research on City Beneath the Sea...


----------



## starseeker

Wbnemo1 said:


> hey all,
> Fred Barr is fine, I talk to him at least once a week now, he recently came over to the shop and hung out a bit.
> Will


Get him to come over here. We have 10,000 questions for him!


----------



## WEAPON X

Please keep use posted with your updates.


----------



## Wbnemo1

well ...here's my original paint chip on the Moebius sub
Will


----------



## Wbnemo1

and another....


----------



## steve123

Sorry guys, It was 18 degrees here today...

Here's a pic of the crew for my Sub...









Steve


----------



## Antimatter

steve123 said:


> Here is the front bulkhead in Metalizer Titanium:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did both subs this way, but I'm going to change the color to black.
> 
> Steve



What color blue is that you used?


----------



## steve123

The Blue on the 'lil Sub is a paint pen I got at Michael's it's by decocolor..I'm looking for the pen..I'll find it by morning.
Got it It's 200-S Blue.


Steve


----------



## spocks beard

steve123 said:


> Steve, the Metalizer titanium is not looking right either. It's pretty dark, almost a gunmetal..but it's not right.Yup it's going to be black by tomorrow...
> 
> I'll send shots of the two subs before I re-paint though.
> Sorry I didn't get them up earlier, crazy day...
> 
> Steve


I did the same thing with my old monogram flying sub. After years of never seeing any color pix of the flying sub mini, Plus the fact voyage was not in syndication at the time,All i had to go by was the art work on the box.To me the black stripes silver hatches and black bulkhead were correct.It took a while to get used to the real paint scheme of the mini, once i saw a photo of it a few years later. But i held off repainting my monogram:thumbsup:


----------



## GForceSS

I watched two more episodes and in one the FS went down and in the next got shot down. The Nelson institute must have a squadron of these at ready disposal! They showed Nelson and Sharkey parachuting out the rear hatch on to Dinosaur Island. So no bang seats here.


----------



## GForceSS

They look hella better than the regular crew by far!


----------



## Richard Baker

Aliens destroyed another one- they sent the shell as a warhead back at the Seaview and kept the interior as a 'set' with Crane & Sharky to project into the craft to fool the Admiral. (I think- it has been a long time since I watched it)

.


----------



## starseeker

Now we know why they had the bunk in the FS. 
That's the nicest looking set of figures from Drew yet! Where do I order?


----------



## Dave Metzner

This is a consolidation of threads discussing flying sub details 

More housekeeping

Dave


----------



## Seaview

I know what is meant by painting the FS-1 bow black with silver grills, lamp cages and window frames; that was how I painted my Aurora 1st edition when it came out thanks to the box art and the fact that we had a black & white TV set. I admit that painting the bow in the correct colors did take some getting used to. 
Attached is another photo of one of the original 18" filming miniatures, detailing the front:


----------



## Antimatter

Seaview said:


> I know what is meant by painting the FS-1 bow black with silver grills, lamp cages and window frames; that was how I painted my Aurora 1st edition when it came out thanks to the box art and the fact that we had a black & white TV set. I admit that painting the bow in the correct colors did take some getting used to.
> Attached is another photo of one of the original 18" filming miniatures, detailing the front:


Flat yellow paint. Is there such a thing?


----------



## Seaview

Antimatter said:


> Flat yellow paint. Is there such a thing?


 
Yes, if you apply dullcoat on it. On this original, I think that was a natural result of being immersed in water for extended periods of filming, plus natural daylight streaming into Irwin Allen's window. 
This model was a fixture in his office, and the photo was taken in the mid to late 80's.


----------



## Richard Baker

How do the top/bottom blue stripes connect to the window frames? Are they painted in the interior of the hull cut-out?

.


----------



## steve123

That's another thing I'm not gonna do. I tried it on the 'lil Sub and hated it.

I paint my Sub the way I like, you paint your sub your way.

Steve


----------



## Seaview

Agreed 100%. 
Lately I've been thinking about my last LM Flying Sub build, and how disappointed I am with it because of warpage. I've been toying with the idea of repainting it as a City Beneath The Sea "Aquafoil", with a white hull and brick red striping.


----------



## spocks beard

No disrespect to the original prop guys that crafted these mini's, And i know they are 40+ years old artifacts.But the commercial plastic kits are painted and built better than the props:freak:That last pic, Reminds me of the paint job i did on my old monogram kit when i was around ten! I guess they were in a hurry to slap that baby together. That happens a lot when i finally see an original prop from an old series, They look great on the screen but up close are cheesyI was told the original LIS Robot didn't look to impressive in person either.


----------



## Richard Baker

Thanks for clearing the stripes up!
I am going to be a rebel and paint the lower docking collar blue also- it just looks better to me that way. I always figure what reason for th etop being blue (location in murky conditions?) would also apply to the lower one.

.


----------



## marlonhillard

I would like to know what color is the control panels inside the Flying sub? Gray or metallic gray?

Thank you.

Marlon


----------



## megabot11

Here's the Flying sub 36" with x type searchlight cages as well as the mirror windows, This would be like the bob burns FS in that it was used for take off sequences.Another note: the entire front face of the cockpit area was yellow except for the intake grills and searchlight cages.


----------



## Seaview

marlonhillard said:


> I would like to know what color is the control panels inside the Flying sub? Gray or metallic gray?
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Marlon


 
I'd recommend a dark grey, possibly "Panzer Grey" for the control panel facings, and metallic grey for the corrugated portions of the walls.
And welcome to HobbyTalk, Marlon!


----------



## enterprise_fan

With all the discussion on what color the front bulkhead should be :freak: has anyone asked if the rear bulkhead is the same color as the front?


----------



## LGFugate

By what I've seen in the DVDs, it is aluminum like the front bulkhead with a red door wheel.

Larry


----------



## Seaview

Here is a rear view of one of the original 18" miniatures. I believe the 36" ones all had a red wheel.


----------



## megabot11

Seaview said:


> Here is a rear view of one of the original 18" miniatures. I believe the 36" ones all had a red wheel.


Here's a 36" FS-1 with no red wheel on the aft hatch door.

http://www.freewebs.com/scifivehiclevault/apps/photos/photo?photoid=19160048


----------



## falcon49xxxx

The outside wheel is silver,the inside wheels are red and silver.


----------



## steve123

Here she is about to get her forward lights..the commishining crew is already aboard...









Steve


----------



## Richard Baker

is that Deep Sea Barbie? I heard she was in town...

Taht is a good looking build- what yellow did you paint it with?

.


----------



## steve123

Chrome yellow Tamiya...lol...the Scuba girls are 1/32nd slot babes...

Steve


----------



## Steve244

Did you get a Hooter's sponsorship? :thumbsup:


----------



## steve123

No, they thought Capt Crane's last name was a nickname.....

They are gonna stick around though.

The FS-1 is 'kinda like a really cool RV... *that flys *
I told you I was a heretic

Steve


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Steve, great work on the sub! Or do the girls get the credit?


----------



## Lloyd Collins

As for the yellow paint. I have been to ACE, as suggested, not in stock.
I have been to Home Depot, as suggested, not in stock.
Checked Lowe's and WM, disappointing. Next Michael's.


----------



## bdavis007

WEAPON X said:


> I find this look to be very interesting! What say you fellow members?
> In fact the color looks almost identical to interior support beams.


Dude, that's not a model, that's a foreground lens mask that they're shooting through. The actors are on a set dressed as the interior of the cockpit, but the exterior of the ship is a separate piece lined up with the set.

The miniature foreground piece is acting as a mask and is probably made of balsa. There's probably not much more to than what you see. So, you can't actually reference it to any of the studio models, because it's not - - I don't think there's as much detail in any of the studio models that can be seen in this image.


----------



## WEAPON X

bdavis007 said:


> Dude, that's not a model, that's a foreground lens mask that they're shooting through. The actors are on a set dressed as the interior of the cockpit, but the exterior of the ship is a separate piece lined up with the set.
> 
> The miniature foreground piece is acting as a mask and is probably made of balsa. There's probably not much more to than what you see. So, you can't actually reference it to any of the studio models, because it's not - - I don't think there's as much detail in any of the studio models that can be seen in this image.


bdavis007, First, I think we all know that! 
Second, Please never ever address me as, "Dude"! :thumbsup:

- Ben


----------



## Steve H

WEAPON X said:


> bdavis007, First, I think we all know that!
> Second, Please never ever address me as, "Dude"! :thumbsup:
> 
> - Ben


Right, I believe the correct term is 'bub'

::runs away laughing::


----------



## steve123

I'm about done getting the interior ready, what a fun kit. Even something as simple as the pilot's chairs are really cool looking when done.

I'm having a ball detailing the interior...

Steve


----------



## steve123

A little "gizmology"


----------



## Richard Baker

Wonderful!- that magazine is a fun choice (that must be where Chief Sharkey was last mission). I also like the radiation warnings by the reactor wall.
What dis you do with the front 'dash'?

.


----------



## steve123

I'm broke , or I'd get those cool decals...I'm putting little warning labels..on the blank sections,...clear green onev silver for the "'scopes, I'll take a pic when I'm happier with the look.

Steve


----------



## steve123

getting closer...










Steve


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Looking Very good, Steve! Nice added details.


----------



## steve123

Thanks Lloyd, did you ever find the right paint?

Steve


----------



## Richard Baker

Nicely done!

I decided to do my kit without the fancy lighing for now- I will use LEDs for general and panel illunination and the LED 'Tea Lights' for the reactor wall. I really want to put the MP4 video dispaly behind but I just can't swing it with finances this time around. I have decided to build a second reactor wall and light it up like the Aquafoil's dual reactor design- I just like that better than having a bunk bed there.

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Nicely done!
> 
> I decided to do my kit without the fancy lighing for now- I will use LEDs for general and panel illunination and the LED 'Tea Lights' for the reactor wall. I really want to put the MP4 video dispaly behind but I just can't swing it with finances this time around. I have decided to build a second reactor wall and light it up like the Aquafoil's dual reactor design- I just like that better than having a bunk bed there.
> 
> .


http://cgi.ebay.com/4gb-New-mp3-mp4...4|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1309|301:1|293:6|294:50

Richard, the MP4 player is only $45 with free shipping.:wave: I used the "Make Offer" box and got mine for
$40.00.


----------



## Richard Baker

Thanks- but that is $40 I do not have right now. I had to jump through some hoops just to get this kit. I cannot afford to even get the lighting kits for it right now...
I will get the MP4 display for the next build when ALL of the cool aftermaket stuff is released. My two Reactor Walls in this build would need two of those MP4 units to do properly. In the mean tiem I can go zoom-zoom around the room with this one instead of waiting for the perfect combination of parts.


----------



## steve123

You can install the lighting after the kit is done.

I just got laid off, so I understand. Don't glue the floor to the lower sub, don't glue the aft tunnel in or together, and of course, dont glue the sub halves together.....

Steve


----------



## Lloyd Collins

steve123 said:


> Thanks Lloyd, did you ever find the right paint?
> 
> Steve


Not yet, Steve. 
I will find it, or die trying!:freak:


----------



## Richard Baker

I was thinking about that too- if I did not use a perminante glue but a CA on interior parts they can be taken apart later also.
I wsa going to hold off buying the kit for a while and let the dust settle- I still have the Space Pod & Chariot kits unbuilt and I got them as soon as they appeared on the LHS shelves. When I was there yesterday and saw it just sittin gthere, calling out to be I got weak in spirit and did some mental gymnastics to justify it- and the owner gave me $10 off since I am a regular customer from long ago.
I do have on hand some materials to cast a duplicate Reactor Wall unit for my sub- I will do that next. I am also going to drill out some of the control panel lights and use the LED christmas lights I kept handy. It may not be as cool as a full lighting kit, but I need to get creative now and later I can get all the bells and whistles.
Watching everybodies excellent builds has inspired me and I wanna play too.

.


----------



## steve123

Randy At VoodooFX custom built for me a smaller version of his flying sub light kit. When you have a little dough, maybe give him a call.

I used christmas lights in my seaview, it was fun doing it, and I was proud that I pulled it off.

Steve


----------



## Antimatter

I used a grey primer. It takes more paint but gives the yellow a darker color.


----------



## gareee

*FS Spotlight grill.. should they be rotated 45 degrees?*

I'm talking about the wire spotlight protectors.. on most pics of the actual props, they are at 45 degree angles, but on the kit, they are proper straight up n down/left n right.

Which is actually correct?


----------



## Capt. Krik

Actually, both positions are correct. Some models had the + shaped protectors and some had the X shaped protectors. Diehard fans can probably tell you which models had which set of light grilles. Typical of different models of the same vehicle used in movies or tv series. If you ever look at stills of Thunderbird 1 you'll notice a lot of differences between the various studio models used in that series. Same goes for the Seaview and other models to numerous to mention.


----------



## gareee

Ah.. that makes sense.. when I was working on my cgi flying sub, I did them one way, and then changed them to the x version, because the majority of model photos supported the X use.

I kinda prefer the + myself for some reason.


----------



## Carson Dyle

I much prefer the + configuration myself. For some reason a pair of side-by-side X's reminds me of a dead cartoon character. :drunk:


----------



## Steve244

I'm not sure what material was used for the headlights, but they oughta get some of whatever was used for the window (seadow?) and we wouldn't be having this discussion.


----------



## John P

Carson Dyle said:


> I much prefer the + configuration myself. For some reason a pair of side-by-side X's reminds me of a dead cartoon character. :drunk:


:lol:



Steve244 said:


> I'm not sure what material was used for the headlights, but they oughta get some of whatever was used for the window (seadow?) and we wouldn't be having this discussion.


Flowdow, maybe?


----------



## steve123

Headlights?


----------



## Carson Dyle

steve123 said:


> Headlights?


Great shot! :thumbsup:


----------



## Antimatter

Lloyd Collins said:


> Not yet, Steve.
> I will find it, or die trying!:freak:


I painted mine chrome yellow then hit it with school bus yellow. Looks pretty good.


----------



## Steve244

steve123 said:


> Headlights?



Excellent!

What's the skyline? Aurora Co?


----------



## Antimatter

steve123 said:


> Headlights?



Sweeeet!


----------



## Carson Dyle

Question re: the FS thruster nozzles: Does anyone have any photo reference of the full scale mock-up of the ext. rear bulkhead? Or, for that matter, a good shot of the hero miniature's thrusters for comparison?

I'm mainly trying to determine if the perimeter rings surrounding the thrusters were dark silver or "FS accent blue."


----------



## Richard Baker

Is Testor's #1114 Chrome Yellow (Jar) also the same as #1214 Spray?
As far as I can tell #1114 is not in a rattle can and my airbrush is not working.

.


----------



## steve123

Steve! good call...it's the northern edge of the DTC looking south.

Richard, maybe try looking for the Tamiya chrome yellow in a can?..

Thanks guys!.. That pic made me smile...I'm glad it made you guys too!

Steve


----------



## modelgeek

The 1214 spray color should be the same as the 1114..The 2 designates the rattle can.. Jeff


----------



## Seaview

Carson Dyle said:


> Question re: the FS thruster nozzles: Does anyone have any photo reference of the full scale mock-up of the ext. rear bulkhead? Or, for that matter, a good shot of the hero miniature's thrusters for comparison?
> 
> I'm mainly trying to determine if the perimeter rings surrounding the thrusters were dark silver or "FS accent blue."


This is from the "flying" miniature in Bob Burns' collection:


----------



## steve123

Not historical, but this is how I painted mine:
steel bulkhead and titanium nozzles.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Carson Dyle said:


> Question re: the FS thruster nozzles: Does anyone have any photo reference of the full scale mock-up of the ext. rear bulkhead? Or, for that matter, a good shot of the hero miniature's thrusters for comparison?
> 
> I'm mainly trying to determine if the perimeter rings surrounding the thrusters were dark silver or "FS accent blue."


In all the photos and screen caps I've looked at, it looks like those rings are a darker color than silver.I painted them metallic grey.


----------



## teslabe

falcon49xxx said:


> In all the photos and screen caps I've looked at, it looks like those rings are a darker color than silver.I painted them metallic grey.[/QUOTE
> 
> I think it looks much more realistic like that. Very very nice....:thumbsup:


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Steve, that is such a cool shot of the FS over the Skyline. 

I did find School Bus Yellow yesterday, at O'Riley's Auto Parts Store. Some Irish luck?


----------



## steve123

Thanks Lloyd, It's just a great kit with a VoodooFX baby light kit.

I have a great digital camera a DSLR...This camera is a joy to work with.

This pic? I just got lucky...But I'm proud of it as well...thank you.

Steve


----------



## Steve244

steve123 said:


> Steve! good call...it's the northern edge of the DTC looking south.
> 
> Richard, maybe try looking for the Tamiya chrome yellow in a can?..
> 
> Thanks guys!.. That pic made me smile...I'm glad it made you guys too!
> 
> Steve


Thought it looked familiar. I worked at DTC for a year (lived in Highlands Ranch).


----------



## AJ-1701

Steve123 That is one magic pic you took there mate :thumbsup::thumbsup: You've done a bang up job :woohoo:

And after seeing the work here I'm beyond convincing that it really is a kit which *must* have lighting.

Seeing what all you blokes have been doing is making me want to hook into mine. But I told myself that I wouldn't fix, fiddle with, start or finish anything till I have completed my p/l refit.... 

Cheers,

Alec. :wave:


----------



## Carson Dyle

falcon49xxx said:


> In all the photos and screen caps I've looked at, it looks like those rings are a darker color than silver.


I agree. It wouldn't surprise me to learn they were painted the same shade of blue as the pin-striping (a theory I haven't been able to confirm). In any event, they're clearly a different color than "aft bulkhead silver." 

Thanks for the pix, guys.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Try to get to see Bob Burns model,or ask Gene to call Greg Jein,they should have the answer for you.


----------



## Seaview

A closeup of the hind end of Bob Burns "flying version" is on post #160 of this tread. It looks alot like the rings are metallic grey in that shot.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

My rear end of my 36" hero Flying Sub.


----------



## solex227

Does anyone have a good screen photo of the ladder in the stow position?


----------



## Vindi

Since I am planning to buy and start building the Moebius Flying Sub, I was wondering if anyone has seen these and what you think of them:

http://cgi.ebay.com/FLYING-SUB-VTTBOTS-MOEBIUS-MODELS-DECAL-and-FLOOR-VINYL_W0QQitemZ300296200735QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item300296200735&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

I was wonder from those that have built and lighted it, if these would interfere with lighting kits. 

I'm going to get all the materials before I start, so that means I'll be waiting till the new interior lighting kit from Voodoo Lighting comes out before I start my build.

Thanks

Vindi


----------



## Steve244

*HENRY*!!!! you gotta customer waiting...

excuse me sir, but while you wait you may want to have a look at this: link


Sorry, I have nothing else to add. I just like shouting "henry." That thread doesn't seem to specifically address the compatibility of the decals and lights, but my guess they'd go together well...


----------



## steve123

I'd love to try one of Henry's decals sets.. As far as my build was concerned it would'nt have any effect on the lighting. It would however speed up your build..(less fiddly painting)..unless you wanted to add additional lighting to the dash etc..But Henry's decals are modular so you can work around any added lighing you need/want to do.

Steve


----------



## steve123

Here is Fs-1 next to old "double ugly"

wadda ya think about squadron markings?
I'm working on ground handling equipment too..









Steve


----------



## gareee

Is that a martian war machine to the left? Looks in scale with the FS-1.

Not lovin the squaron markings though. I prefer the original appearance.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

solex227 said:


> Does anyone have a good screen photo of the ladder in the stow position?


1st photo above Crane's head are the bars/brackets that hold the ladder.
2nd photo shows the brackets on the ladder.
3rd photo shows the glide slots to move the ladder in the stowed and to use positions.
4th photo above Nelson's shoulder you can make out the cable that holds the 
ladder up, and at the end of the ladder is the swivel foot. 

This is all I have found so far.


----------



## steve123

Luuucy...I got some reepaintin too doo...

Steve


----------



## Seaview

Oh, yeah, I forgot that one little detail that is so glaringly evident in the last photo; Adm. Nelson's skin-tight shirt with the pack of Tarytons (with "micronite filter") buldging in his pocket.
I remember hearing Navy vet officers & NCO's in my family pointing it out and saying how they would NEVER stuff anything into their shirt pockets while on duty.


----------



## GKvfx

Seaview said:


> Oh, yeah, I forgot that one little detail that is so glaringly evident in the last photo; Adm. Nelson's skin-tight shirt with the pack of Tarytons (with "micronite filter") buldging in his pocket.
> I remember hearing Navy vet officers & NCO's in my family pointing it out and saying how they would NEVER stuff anything into their shirt pockets while on duty.


Apparently, he was stuffing his gut into that shirt too........

Gene


----------



## solex227

Lloyd Collins


Thanks!! those helped alot !!:thumbsup:


Sloex227


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I'm happy to help!


----------



## steve123

I was watching VTTBOTS season 2 vol 1 last night, _all_ the things made of steel/metal/nelsonium? _all_ look blue (most of the time)
Even the watertight hatch in the control room looks blue untill they swing it open and it locks in its catch verticaly.

It must have driven the folks at Moebius nuts trying to set up a color 
chart.
Do you guys remember the FS-1 being sunk? yup, they lost one to sabotage...in an underwater cavern no less....

Anyway, I'm happy with my choices for colors in both the subs.

Steve


----------



## Richard Baker

IIRC they lost three, not counting the one trapped in it's bay when the Seaview was abandoned on the ocean floor in the final episode. They always called it FS-1 though.


----------



## Seaview

Maybe we've been assuming wrongly, and that "FS-1" was the "model" number, and not a "fleet" number, because Adm.Nelson, known for his amazing foresight, was planning more versions of it in the future.
Who knows? This is the Fantasy Worlds Of Irwin Allen we're talking about, so why not???


----------



## Richard Baker

For my build I am planning on a 'hybrid' between the VttBotS and the Aquafoil. To this purpose I wll call the pure VttBotS Flying Sub "FS-1" and the City Beneath the See version as "FS-3"- mine will have a tail marking of "FS-2-27".
General description:
FS-1: The VttBotS is the prototype model. One reason the detals like the nose consol were being changed was that Nelson was still tinkering with the design and equipment.
Coloring is Yellow/Blue with Yellow ventral docking collar.
FS-2: (Mine) - Production model. Dual Reactor Walls, minor interior changes.
Color- Yellow with Black trim, Black (Steel fins) upper & lower Docking collars. Some callouts & hull graphics. My build will be #27 production model.
FS-3/3a: (Aquafoil)- Dual Reactor Walls, Spindrift style interior control area. 
Color- FS-3 Yellow & Blue, FS-3a White with Red trim

Maybe not canon, but that is how I am going to approach it for now...

.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Richard, with Irwin, how can you say "Canon". I like you different versions you came up with.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Here are the replacement engine rings I made to look like the ones on the 36'' hero miniature,I cast them up this morning and will paint them later today.Someone e-mailed me asking if I had a 36" miniature,I wish I did,but no,this is just my version of the Moebius Flying Sub.alex


----------



## steve123

I need to make a figure of Adm. Nelson parachuting out the bottom hatch of the FS-1...what a hoot! Not my idea of a craft for clandestine airdrops... and every single time they showed the bottom hatch, it was a sliding door! it just slid open (that's how the old japanese Lt. was able to sneak onboard and scuttle her)....

Ahh, this is fun stuff!

Steve


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Steve, Adm. Nelson parachuted out the back door. 

It is amazing how the interior, never matched the exterior. But Irwin and all other producers of the 60's never thought that we would be seeing the series far in the future. But it don't matter, as you said, it's fun stuff.

I have a question. What is the diameter of the lower ring on the lage FS model. I haven't got one yet, and I have an idea that requires the info. Thanks.


----------



## Richard Baker

I just pulled the kit part from the mold and tonight I will cast the second reactor wall. I made the mold withth e inset windows in position and will be casting with clear plastic. I have a set of LED Chirstmas lights which has each LED continually shifting colors I will be using to light up both walls. Not as cool as those LCD MP4 displays, but I need to use what is on hand for this project.

.


----------



## Krel

GKvfx said:


> Apparently, he was stuffing his gut into that shirt too........
> 
> Gene


Easy to laugh, but Richard Basehart was in his fifties when he started the show. For most of us aging is the great expander. 

One thing his build did was to show that it actually was him in many of the diving, action, and fight scenes. :thumbsup: Either that, or very good costuming on the stunt man. :lol: 


David.


----------



## Krel

Lloyd Collins said:


> Steve, Adm. Nelson parachuted out the back door.


In at least one episode someone, I don't remember who, parachuted out of the bottom. I also remember in one episode, they talked of the Flying Sub pens at the institute, so there were multiple FS's.

What would be interesting would be to do a FS in Air Force One livery, uh, Navy One? After all the President did have a sub sea bunker.

David.


----------



## steve123

He jumped out the bottom on this episode, he was jumping into Russia to meet a beautiful agent, and his chute looked like a lunchbox strapped to his chest.

Lloyd: you need the diameter of the entire ring? it's 3 7/8th inches, if you need a different part let me know
Steve


----------



## Richard Baker

> What would be interesting would be to do a FS in Air Force One livery, uh, Navy One? After all the President did have a sub sea bunker.


I am so glad they are alsoreleasing the mini Flying sub from the Seaview kit separately- so many ideas, but with small inexpensive kits lots of opportunity to explore.
A dio of the Flying Sub pens-
A dio of the R&D Research Lab with variants and one under construction

I need to dig out an old project and take some pictures- I reworked an Aurora FS with hull panels and greebly (think Star Wars but Yellow) and replaced the upper docking ring center with a dome and pilot like the Proteus.

.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Painted and ready to install.The hatch wheels rotates.


----------



## steve123

The hatch wheel rotates? look at you! What a cool thing!.

Nice job on the exhausts too!.. Are you having as much fun as I did?
looks like it.

Steve


----------



## falcon49xxxx

I did that on the first build,the inside wheels turn.I took a short piece of brass tube,and a longer piece of rod,and epoxied the two wheels on the door.Hand turn one and the other rotates....just a little thing I know is there.Yeah,I'm having fun.


----------



## Richard Baker

Turning hatch wheels- that is inspired overkill- I love it!
Has anybody made the Docking Ring hatches operational yet?

.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

steve123 said:


> He jumped out the bottom on this episode, he was jumping into Russia to meet a beautiful agent, and his chute looked like a lunchbox strapped to his chest.
> 
> Lloyd: you need the diameter of the entire ring? it's 3 7/8th inches, if you need a different part let me know
> Steve


I forgot about that episode.

Steve, that is what I needed, Thanks!


----------



## falcon49xxxx

I'm sure someone is working on making the hatches work.Here is the back end.


----------



## Ductapeforever

Docking ring hatches work, scratchbuilt launch cradle (based on the one in the movie "Independence Day") and boarding ladder.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

very nice work.............


----------



## Ductapeforever

Thank you Alex !


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Impressive idea!


----------



## AJ-1701

Struth!! That is mind blowing Herb and to agree with Alex it is very nice indeed... :thumbsup:

cheers,

Alec. :wave:


----------



## Richard Baker

I love the hatches and boarding ladders! Was the sern Boading ladder scratched as well?

Where did you find the 'Lift Here' deacls for the docking rings?


----------



## Steve244

Ductapeforever said:


> Docking ring hatches work, scratchbuilt launch cradle (based on the one in the movie "Independence Day") and boarding ladder.


Duct! that's lovely! What's the back story on the launch cradle? It looks like vtol capabilities by means of anti-gravity or very strong springy thingies are a given.


----------



## Ductapeforever

Well, my active imagination hasn't developed a backstory with antigrav technology. I envisioned the cradle simply for maintenence while the ship is out of the water. The lift here decals suggesting a standard crane to lift her from the water to the cradle while the gear is up. The rolling boarding ladder was scratchbuilt. The decals were donated by leftovers from an aircraft sheet of unknown origin. Hatches in the docking rings were hinged and super detailed. As the lower hatch was copied in resin and the two sandwiched together to form one assembly in the reworked well.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Very,Very well done indeed Sir:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## WEAPON X

Ductapeforever, question regarding the drainage holes on the dorsal ring. What sized diameter tool did your use to create the drainage holes? 

Oh and yes your FS build is awesome, sir!

-Ben


----------



## GKvfx

I realized that this was discussed on Rob's Flying Sub-o-rama thread, but hadn't been mentioned here. I found some interesting "thingees" that look a lot like fan blades that are a drop fit perfect for the engines of the flying sub.



















I've started a thread in the "Model Swap" section in case any here is interested: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=249084

Gene


----------



## Richard Baker

I just pulled the casting of my second Reactor Wall-
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030055-1.jpg
This new one will go on the port side in place of the bunk bed & storage.

.


----------



## steve123

Nice work! But where will the little guys sleep?..Where will they set their ...magazines?

Great job! Can't wait to see the build!

Steve


----------



## Steve244

Richard Baker said:


> I just pulled the casting of my second Reactor Wall-
> http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030055-1.jpg
> This new one will go on the port side in place of the bunk bed & storage.
> 
> .


A sound engineering concept. :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> I just pulled the casting of my second Reactor Wall-
> http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030055-1.jpg
> This new one will go on the port side in place of the bunk bed & storage.
> 
> .


Excellent job....:thumbsup: Have you checked it out in your sub yet, will it just drop in or will you need to modify it? I tried to order two from Moebius but was told I need to wait til the kits been out a bit longer, all they have right now are for people with missing parts, rats.....


----------



## Richard Baker

I need to trim the edges a bit but it looks like it should drop right in.
I always thought having two reactors worked better from an engineering point of view- symmetrical drive system for balance, that sort of thing. When I first saw the Aquafoil I knew it was the way to go for sure.
Having a bunk and storage worked better for the VttBotS stories- you had to have someplace to put the unconscious crewmember before he transformed into the alien plant-monster.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

engines on........


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

*floor question*

I'm working on something (hint, hint) and I have a question about the floor.

the space between the two levels, up by the pilot chairs, is that supposed to light up?


----------



## steve123

I left the edges of my floor steps clear so they would light up, but I can't find any pics to make me believe it's prototypical.

Steve


----------



## Richard Baker

I thought hard about the vertical edges getting lit. I finally decided not to, but I have made the floor flat black and I will be putting a red pin stripe on that raised edge.
I plan to light the three hex panels with LEDs flooding the underarea and using translucent yellow vinyl for the underside. What are people doing for the center hatch hex which is not lighted?


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Richard.
I'm painting that unlit panel gray and detailing like a hatch. Shading and such.

OK I'll make provisions for that vertical areas to be lit

thanks


----------



## steve123

Yup, I painted mine grey and silver for the hinges and latch, I'm debating if I want to move the ladder to a "stowed" position or not.
This really is a fun project!

Steve


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> I thought hard about the vertical edges getting lit. I finally decided not to, but I have made the floor flat black and I will be putting a red pin stripe on that raised edge.
> I plan to light the three hex panels with LEDs flooding the underarea and using translucent yellow vinyl for the underside. What are people doing for the center hatch hex which is not lighted?


I also debated lighting the edges but painted it flat black, I have enough going on in my sub.....:freak: As for the hex panels, I painted the center one
Neutral Gray. The other three will be lit with some LCD backlighting assemblies
I found online, they are just 3mm thick, 2.2"x1.6" and a buck apiece, I ordered 100... As for coloring, I hope TSDS's decals are transparent enough to use, I like how they look....:thumbsup: I will also see how well the backlights will work for ceiling lighting, much easier then scratch building the lighting.
I forgot to point out that the backlight units are $1.00 at 1-99 pieces, $0.80 at 100-200 pieces at
Sparkfun.com. Each unit has six ultra bright right angle LEDs ($5.77 each from Digi-Key), Enhanced Specular Reflector film (ESR) ($39.99 per sheet) and Brightness Enhancement Fim (BEF)(29.99 per sheet). The latter two items alone are very expensive in 11"x8.5" sheets from 3M.

P.S. just a few pictures of the MP4 install, it's coming along slowly, I'm modifying two units at the same time. I think it will be worth the work...


----------



## Richard Baker

Is that the TSDS Floor?
I like your engines! Right now I am digging out a Norelco razor and see it the floating heads might be adaptable...

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Is that the TSDS Floor?
> I like your engines! Right now I am digging out a Norelco razor and see it the floating heads might be adaptable...
> 
> .


Yes it is and it looks great....:thumbsup: Don't go crazy on your razor, just
order a set of these Stator Laminates from GKvfx. He is offering them for $1.00 per set, just send him a SASE, I got mine fast...... Take a look at post #213.


----------



## Richard Baker

The new Reactor Wall snapped into place perfectly- the tabs and notches all fit with no fussing:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030057-1.jpg

Right now I am considering casting some of the control panels in clear and backlighting them. The two forward panels (parts 18 & 19) are identical so that would be simple. I was pin-drilling out some of the controls for fiber-optic, but the rectangular units would be nice to have lit.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> The new Reactor Wall snapped into place perfectly- the tabs and notches all fit with no fussing:
> http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030057-1.jpg
> 
> Right now I am considering casting some of the control panels in clear and backlighting them. The two forward panels (parts 18 & 19) are identical so that would be simple. I was pin-drilling out some of the controls for fiber-optic, but the rectangular units would be nice to have lit.


Richard, that look great, I just might open my other kit and borrow it's wall
til Moebius can spare some for sale.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Richard, it looks...WOW!

Now you are planning to cast more panels clear, so you can light them, how about some working switches? You are doing such a great job, go all the way.


----------



## Richard Baker

Working switches could be done- the difficult part would be to genetically engineer a tiny Richard Baseheart to push them...

.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Richard,
how about clear casting the center controls so we can light up the center monitor? I'm kinda surprised that it didn't come clear as a stock part


----------



## Richard Baker

Casting the entire console would be difficult with my current set-up. This was my first attempt at casting so the molding is one sided and gravity poured instead of the cool two sided pressure casting a lot of people do.
That said- I think the monitor portion (with readout pod on top) of the console could be cast and sectioned in- the console would need to be cut twice and the middle section would be replaced. I think that would work out fine with my current level of skills.
I was looking at the back wall unit and was considering replacing that panel also- it will be the most visible thing through the windows when the top is on and would be nice to have back lit also.

Tonight I am going to start building the molds for the two front wall unit control panels and the rear control panel. I will also start looking at the feasibility of the front monitor section- I agree it would be nice to have that one back lit also.

This may be going out on a limb, but depending on how well these panel sections work out and if there is sufficient interest I can make additional castings for others on this forum. I also need to check with Moebius and see if there is a problem with me doing that since I would be making copies of portions of the kit parts. The wall consoles would be just the control panels- the kit would need to be modified (remove original panel and insert new one) since the wall would be hard to duplicate with the angled front piece, but since the two front consoles are identical one mold would work for both sides. The Reactor wall would be the entire wall just like what I did for my build (round inserts are integrated).
I have no idea about cost since I am doing this for the first time- I will get the molds ready and I should have a good idea of what is involved early next week. This was just a mod for my personal build, but if others are interested in having the parts produced I think I can make extras for others to enjoy.

.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

The monitors screens can be cut out,and clear sheets replaced to make the screens.No need to do the entire piece.I saw the you are getting little bubbles on the edges of the boxes,I can help with that,just PM me.alex


----------



## falcon49xxxx

*FLYING SUB Sunburst Edition.........*

This is my version of the 36" Hero miniature.After many attempts,I finally was able to do the shading that I like.............a more difficult task than I thought.alex


----------



## teslabe

falcon49xxx said:


> This is my version of the 36" Hero miniature.After many attempts,I finally was able to do the shading that I like.............a more difficult task than I thought.alex


I think you got it.....:thumbsup: I would have a hard time doing the shading
as well as you did, painting is my least favorite task in model building....:freak:


----------



## Richard Baker

That is a beautiful paint job. I am unfamiliar with the 'Sunburst' edition but I love the way your shading works with the hull shapes.

.


----------



## Cajjunwolfman

Really great thread. I want to ask a question. What are the best VTBS DVD's to buy/own for Flying Sub references?


----------



## steve123

I drilled out the center view screen and then filled the hole with white glue. It's not that tough/rocket science to light up the screens...

Steve


----------



## Seaview

Cajjunwolfman said:


> Really great thread. I want to ask a question. What are the best VTBS DVD's to buy/own for Flying Sub references?


 
Season 2, Volume 1. Enjoy 'em, because IMHO that period, as well as most of season 1, was Voyage at it's very best. 

Incidentaly, Alexander, you've actually managed to outdo yourself with that 2-tone paint job! I can't wait to see it finished!!!!!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## steve123

I have been watching that /those disks...it's 'kinda like watching old batmans. I enjoyed them but I'm glad I didn't buy 'em.
It's cool to see the models...but yikes....
Sorry but on top of getting laid off I broke my foot, so I have been watching these carefully. And please no more catagorical statements about this color that color this hatch that exit....it changes scene by scene...trust me...I have looked at 'em all. Yikes , sorry but I was laughing at 'em more than enjoying them.

Here's a shot of the sub with the fan doohickeys installed:










Steve


----------



## spocks beard

*Flying sub veiwport*

I have a question for the flying sub pro builders/Painters here.I am doing a few last details before sealing up my flying sub kit and painting the hulls.I have already primed the top and bottom halves of the hull, and want to know which is the easiest method for detailing the viewport.Primer the veiwport, Glue it to the bottom half and fill in the seams,Then paint it, mask it off and join the halves together and fill in the top seams.Or primer/paint the viewport the proper colors, Glue it in,fill in the seams, Mask it off and spray the hull yellow.I thought if i get as much details to the viewport as possible before gluing the halves together would be the best route before spraying on the yellow.Any recomendations? Thanks:dude:


----------



## steve123

The kit fits better than that. I painted my hull yellow, then the viewport black. I installed the viewport on the lower hull,.. no seams. I don't expect the hull to need any filler when I seal the hull. But I will find out when I seal it. It's going to be easier to touch up any seams after the hull is fully painted and assembled I figure...it's a big sub. 

Steve


----------



## teslabe

I think I found a good "engine light effect controller", it's the "Glade Wisp Flameless Candle". The light looks like a flame and that is what you need.
I looked at the cheap "tea lights", that you can buy at many stores.... And they repeat it's pattern too quickly, don't look right, IMHO......:wave:


----------



## WEAPON X

Teslabe (K.F.) Looking very good! :thumbsup:

- Ben


----------



## teslabe

WEAPON X said:


> K.F., Looking very good! :thumbsup:
> 
> - Ben


Hi Ben, I hope to get your unit done by next weekend, I just have so much 
painting to get done... I need to make sure it all works before I ship...:wave:


----------



## WEAPON X

teslabe said:


> Hi Ben, I hope to get your unit done by next weekend, I just have so much
> painting to get done... I need to make sure it all works before I ship...:wave:


Hi Ken, No worries, no problem! Take all the time you need, my friend! :thumbsup:

Be well... 

-Ben


----------



## falcon49xxxx

I glued the viewport to the bottom hull,sprayed that yellow,then the blue and the silver last.alex


----------



## spocks beard

Thanks steve123 & falcon49xxx.So it sounds like a good idea to get the viewport glued into the bottom of the hull first,And paint the top and bottom parts of the hull seporately before sealing them together.It sounds a lot easier to work with as this is a big kit.I did dry fit the viewport to the bottom and top of the hull, And there will be some seam lines to be sanded and lightly puttied.Not open gaps,The fit is great!But lines that i would like to smooth out before painting.


----------



## falcon49xxxx

I did not do any putty work on the two I'm building.I like the "old school " way.


----------



## Richard Baker

Speaking of 'old school' methods- I use the Tester's tube (Gel) glue instead of the newer 'water' kinds. I find it holds a part in position better while setting and is thick enough to fill most gaps. I know there are better things out there now, but this is how I have been building since 1964 and it is what I know best. 
I also prefer enamals over the newer acrylics too...

.


----------



## steve123

OT? Seams can drive ya nuts! I've been building since I was 5 and only in the last 4 or 5 years am I able to build a kit (mostly aircraft) without having tons of seams to fix.
Some of that is due to great kits...but I also build alot of big 1/48th aircraft...they have seeeems. it takes parctice and planning to avoid using lots of filler.

Steve


----------



## falcon49xxxx

The seam between the viewport piece and the bottom hull is not an issue with me,it looks like it should be there.I use the newer Testors applicator glue,a combo of the the old standby and the liquid glue.I find it works for most work,with the tube glue for heavy loads.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

For my build, I sealed the Top and Bottom.

So I needed to fill in the seam around the Viewport....So I had to paint the viewport detailing AFTER I did the other work...


----------



## starseeker

An excellent filler for long thin seams like that is white glue like Elmers. You can also use things like micro crystal clear. Excess can be removed (before dry) with water and they won't ruin finishes or mar clear.


----------



## spocks beard

Thanks every one for recomendationsI glued the viewport to the bottom hull and i'll let it dry over night. The fit is very good, With just a thin seam line that i can get rid off with a fine line of modeling putty across it.I doubt i'll have to do much sanding, And it looks like i'll do the same to the top section when i get it sealed up.Neither top or bottom lines are that bad, But it's just one of those things i think should be done,Being the seam filler& sander that i am:freak:I'm always glad to hear more tips on this subject:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

starseeker said:


> An excellent filler for long thin seams like that is white glue like Elmers. You can also use things like micro crystal clear. Excess can be removed (before dry) with water and they won't ruin finishes or mar clear.


 
I used my favorite seam "killer"..Backing soda and super glue:thumbsup:

I also used JB Weld..


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

*new stuff from the dummy*

Hey gang,
I don't want to take up too much space here but I just wanted to drop a note to say that I've come up a new painting template set for the flying sub.

Hexagons for the floor (not to knock Henry's excellent floor vinyl, but this is for folks who want to paint their floors a custom color), strip masks for the pinstriping ( better than masking tape and a good alternative to Tamiya tape) and custom pieces for symmetical (sp?) top and bottom rear fins.

I also borrowed the idea from here to include my version of the engine fins. I hope Carson and GKvfx don't mind...

the set should be available soon from the usual outlets

Enjoy


----------



## Richard Baker

I started on the molds for the clear backlit control panels this weekend. I plan on using the clear Tamiya paints and a black undercoat to block light. I may run some fiber optics to hace some controls blink or change color.
I am going to hate finishing this kit- this is a fun build.

.


----------



## WEAPON X

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Hey gang,
> I don't want to take up too much space here but I just wanted to drop a note to say that I've come up a new painting template set for the flying sub.
> 
> Hexagons for the floor (not to knock Henry's excellent floor vinyl, but this is for folks who want to paint their floors a custom color), strip masks for the pinstriping ( better than masking tape and a good alternative to Tamiya tape) and custom pieces for symmetical (sp?) top and bottom rear fins.
> 
> I also borrowed the idea from here to include my version of the engine fins. I hope Carson and GKvfx don't mind...
> 
> the set should be available soon from the usual outlets
> 
> Enjoy


Lou, please check your PM!
Awesome technique

- Ben


----------



## Seaview

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Hey gang,
> I don't want to take up too much space here but I just wanted to drop a note to say that I've come up a new painting template set for the flying sub.
> ...The set should be available soon from the usual outlets.


 
This is excellent news! I can most definately use strip masks for the pinstriping. I'll keep my eye peeled on Steve Iversons' store for your new painting template set.
Thanks, Lou! :thumbsup:


----------



## spocks beard

beatlepaul said:


> I used my favorite seam "killer"..Backing soda and super glue:thumbsup:
> 
> I also used JB Weld..


I used Testors Super glue to join the viewport to the bottom hull and let it cure. It didn't take long,a couple seconds.I used the super glue to make sure it had a nice tight fit where it joins across the bottom hull section reducing any possible gaps.I just used a fine line of putty across the seam line sanded and put on the first coat of primer.So far it looks pretty smoothed out already,But i want to check it again later for any flaws.Well beatle paul, Please do tell your method of this baking soda crazy glue recipe,If it is easier then my method i would like to try it on the top half seam when i'm ready to seal her up.Thank you sir


----------



## steve123

Baking soda acts as a filler when mixed with the superglue. 

Steve


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

but do you glue first then sprinkle with the baking soda, or do you mix the soda in the glue before you apply it? that's the question I think.


----------



## Ductapeforever

Run a bead of Super glue in the seam, then carefully and lightly sprinkle baking soda over the length of the joint "uniformally" The bond is instantanious. It is a chemical reaction with elements of the cyanoacrylate ,basic chemistry. Practice on something first!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

spocks beard said:


> I used Testors Super glue to join the viewport to the bottom hull and let it cure. It didn't take long,a couple seconds.I used the super glue to make sure it had a nice tight fit where it joins across the bottom hull section reducing any possible gaps.I just used a fine line of putty across the seam line sanded and put on the first coat of primer.So far it looks pretty smoothed out already,But i want to check it again later for any flaws.Well beatle paul, Please do tell your method of this baking soda crazy glue recipe,If it is easier then my method i would like to try it on the top half seam when i'm ready to seal her up.Thank you sir


It's Rather simple really..I can't take credit for inventing it..It's been around a LOOOOONG time..

What you do is.... 
Sprinkle some Baking Soda on wax paper
Make yourself a little tool(A very small spoon,Tooth Pick.. Even your fingers can do it) to pick up a little at a time.

Sprinkle some Baking soda in the gap..then Drop some Super glue on the area..

The glue sets up super fast..so you need to sand it immediately..If you wait evn fifteen minutes, you'll be sanding for an hour :freak:,Repeat until your happy with the look..Prime, repeat if neessary:thumbsup:

You can move at a Pretty good clip this way and it's as smooth as glass..

I used this method on My Seaview Build(see my thread), and it had excellent results!!

Check this link out by John Lester at Starship Modeler...

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/basics/jl_soda_seams.htm

Hope this helps


----------



## steve123

Man, I wouldn't try this on the sub as my first shot..(I forseee cyano fingerprints all along the edge of the sub...lol)

This works great but you have to be on your game.
With the size of the sub, I'm going to do a section at a time so I can minumize the gaps.

Steve


----------



## Captain Han Solo

steve123 said:


> Man, I wouldn't try this on the sub as my first shot..(I forseee cyano fingerprints all along the edge of the sub...lol)
> 
> This works great but you have to be on your game.
> With the size of the sub, I'm going to do a section at a time so I can minumize the gaps.
> 
> Steve


Take your time to get the hang of it...You will be suprised with the results:thumbsup:


----------



## gareee

teslabe said:


> I think I found a good "engine light effect controller", it's the "Glade Wisp Flameless Candle". The light looks like a flame and that is what you need.
> I looked at the cheap "tea lights", that you can buy at many stores.... And they repeat it's pattern too quickly, don't look right, IMHO......:wave:


I'm not understanding what you did on the glade lights... did you tie them together somehow electrically so they could be turned on with one switch, or what?

That looks easy enough for me to attempt. I like the idea of a slight flutter in the engine lighting.


----------



## GKvfx

Would this be too much baking soda?











Gene


----------



## steve123

C'mon,..Spock's beard is new to the superglue thing...he might get the wrong idea....lol

Steve


----------



## teslabe

GKvfx said:


> Would this be too much baking soda?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gene


Depends...... How big are your graps......


----------



## steve123

That's how much I used on the 1/32 Revell Phantom....Yikes!

Steve


----------



## teslabe

gareee said:


> I'm not understanding what you did on the glade lights... did you tie them together somehow electrically so they could be turned on with one switch, or what?
> 
> That looks easy enough for me to attempt. I like the idea of a slight flutter in the engine lighting.


Yes, they are hooked in parallel and by removing the pushbutton switch and replacing it with a jumper the light will stay on for about 3hours before turning itself off. The main power switch will be at the battery that powers the whole sub. It has a great flicker effect. As for the other parts that I took off, it's for the element that emits the fragrance, so unless you would like your FS to emit the fragrance of the ocean, you don't need the load it puts on your battery. If you need any help, just send me PM....:wave:

Here are some early pictures of my Hex lighting using the LCD backlight units I got from Sparkfun.com. I got the thickness down to 0.075".....:thumbsup: I did notice that the inside lip of the docking ring mount on the bottom half of the sub's shell, is too hight, making the docking ring sit hight on it's mount. I'm going the sand it flush with the body, it will get me more space. I will post better pictures soon.:wave:
Take a look at my post #225 to see how the backlight unit looks like before I go at it with a saw......


----------



## Richard Baker

Very nice! I like your floor panel arrangement- well thought out.

.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

With the electronics in place, it is my understanding that it will really fly?


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Very nice! I like your floor panel arrangement- well thought out.
> 
> .


Thank you Richard, I hope to have pictures of them epoxied and lite this weekend. I put 5 coats of flat black to act as a light dam and hope I don't see any light leaking through.....:drunk: These backlight panels have turned out to be a great deal, just the "right angle" white LEDs that are used make them worth the $0.80 per. that I paid.....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> With the electronics in place, it is my understanding that it will really fly?


If your asking me, I have tiedown straps holding her in place right now.....


----------



## starseeker

Teslabe: That is all so brilliant! You're not going to light the center hex? (See Deadly Creature Below just a few seconds before the Seaview recovers the FS.) Now that it's above freezing I have to get re-started on mine. You need your own thread on this, you know.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

GKvfx said:


> Would this be too much baking soda?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gene


looks like party nite at Paris Hilton's


----------



## spocks beard

GKvfx said:


> Would this be too much baking soda?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gene


HHAAA,I think i'll keep using the putty when i get around to fill in the seam on the top half of the view port.:tongue:The baking soda is a brilliant idea,But i'm not trying it out on this kit though.Maby one of my figure kits will be easier to try that method out on.I checked out the video clip posted,And the guy is a genius.Thanks:thumbsup:


----------



## Richard Baker

It is always better to try new techniques on a test mule kit- a no pressure fun build that you do not care if it gets slagged.


----------



## gareee

Or just test it out on glueing a few sprues together.. least we then have SOME use for them!


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Teslabe: That is all so brilliant! You're not going to light the center hex? (See Deadly Creature Below just a few seconds before the Seaview recovers the FS.) Now that it's above freezing I have to get re-started on mine. You need your own thread on this, you know.


Thank you very much for the nice words.....:wave: I don't think the center
hex was lit, was it? I thought the moderator was trying to consolidate all the 
threads on the FS?


----------



## falcon49xxxx

The center hex was not lit.


----------



## GKvfx

Lou Dalmaso said:


> looks like party nite at Paris Hilton's


Well, it's a photo from Apogee in the late 70's........so the reference isn't off the mark by that much......

Gene


----------



## Carson Dyle

Yeah, my guess is Paris Hilton has never, and will never, party as hard as some of those Apogee guys.


----------



## Richard Baker

If it was seen lit in an episode it was a mistake when they reassembled the Flying Sub interior set. They made errors every so often- that is why the details change when comparing photos.


----------



## Carson Dyle

Richard Baker said:


> If it was seen lit in an episode it was a mistake


I wouldn't be surprised if the original intention was for the hatch hex to be permanently illuminated. My guess is the logistics of lighting this area on a consistent basis proved somewhat time consuming, and as a result the idea was more or less jettisoned. 

Just a theory.


----------



## starseeker

It was lit in Deadly Creature Below. Just before the great shot where the Seaview floats in over the FS. You can even see the light shining up through the gap between the hatch and the surrounding floor, so it was a light mounted below the hatch, not inside it. I haven't seen a whole lot of episodes so I don't know if it is not lit if the rest of the floor is not lit as well, or (Creature was an early FS episode and the interior went through many changes) if it was disconnected or malfunctioned over time, or if it was just not shown when other hexes were shown. It is really difficult to see the floor, at least in the episodes I've scanned. For instance, after seeing it on the FS interior blueprint that someone (Carson Dyle??) posted somewhere here I've searched and searched and I've never seen the bottom hatch grab handle mounted on the vertical rise of the floor. Yet there it is right beside his hand in this screen grab someone else posted. (I'd post a grab from Creature but suddenly my computer stopped letting me make screen grabs no matter what program I use. Sigh.)
Note how the hex closest to the camera doesn't seem to be lit. I wonder if that's just the angle or if it really was dark?
Edit: a real boner in this attachment - the pressure door pictured opens inwards. That's the way its supposed to be on a spaceship, where the pressure is greater inside the vessel. Under the sea, where you don't want the pressure getting in, you want the hatches to open to the outside. (Even at 30,000 feet, airliner hatches open outwards, so being 1/2 aircraft still isn't an excuse.) I think I've read here somewhere that the rear hatch also opens inwards, tho I've never seen any indication of that on the miniatures. Possibly on the full size set from Season 4?


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> It was lit in Deadly Creature Below. Just before the great shot where the Seaview floats in over the FS. You can even see the light shining up through the gap between the hatch and the surrounding floor, so it was a light mounted below the hatch, not inside it. I haven't seen a whole lot of episodes so I don't know if it is not lit if the rest of the floor is not lit as well, or (Creature was an early FS episode and the interior went through many changes) if it was disconnected or malfunctioned over time, or if it was just not shown when other hexes were shown. It is really difficult to see the floor, at least in the episodes I've scanned. For instance, after seeing it on the FS interior blueprint that someone (Carson Dyle??) posted somewhere here I've searched and searched and I've never seen the bottom hatch grab handle mounted on the vertical rise of the floor. Yet there it is right beside his hand in this screen grab someone else posted. (I'd post a grab from Creature but suddenly my computer stopped letting me make screen grabs no matter what program I use. Sigh.)
> Note how the hex closest to the camera doesn't seem to be lit. I wonder if that's just the angle or if it really was dark?


Well, it's too late for this build, it's already painted top side a Neutral gray
and all but the three hex panels are painted with 5 or 6 coat of flat black
on the back side.....


----------



## falcon49xxxx

I respectfully disagree.looks like a high arc light to me.


----------



## starseeker

Never one to say never, and really bugged by my stupid computer with it's stupid updated programs and stupid updated DRM. Well, I still can't do a screen grab so I just took a photo of the monitor. Not the best quality but this is at 38 min 27 seconds into Creature. You can see what I'm assuming is the dark frame underneath the hatch and the lighted gap around the hatch.
Edit: actually,if anyone has a shot or a location in an episode that shows any of the other hexes lit, and not the hatch, I'd be really interested to see it. It occurs to me that that is a combination that I can't remember seeing. ??


----------



## falcon49xxxx

I stand corrected............but I will keep mine painted.


----------



## Richard Baker

> Never one to say never, and really bugged by my stupid computer with it's stupid updated programs and stupid updated DRM.


I use InterVideo WinDVD Platnium 8. It allows frame-by-frame advance and screen grabs with a simple click. I am running Vista with all the DRM crap and WinDVD has no problem with it. 
It is interesting about the center being lighted there in taht episode. I am still not at the point of no return with my build- of course I am not building a screen perfect VttBotS version but it is tempting to light all four. I an going to watch City Beneatth the Sea again and see if it might be lighted there also...

.


----------



## Thor1956

I've posted pic of my Flying Sub at http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showgallery.php/cat/640 ... please take a look.

I welcome comments and would like some suggestions as to where to put the extra lights that Randy sent with his kit ... not sure where to put 'em ...


----------



## teslabe

Thor1956 said:


> I've posted pic of my Flying Sub at http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showgallery.php/cat/640 ... please take a look.
> 
> I welcome comments and would like some suggestions as to where to put the extra lights that Randy sent with his kit ... not sure where to put 'em ...


Could not look at them, said I don't have permission.....


----------



## Thor1956

Hank posted that there was a problem with the photo albums and that all photos posted after 4/1/09 will have to be reloaded ... I'll check later and may have to reload ... :freak:


----------



## teslabe

Thor1956 said:


> Hank posted that there was a problem with the photo albums and that all photos posted after 4/1/09 will have to be reloaded ... I'll check later and may have to reload ... :freak:


That's good, for a second I thought I was not worthy......


----------



## Thor1956

teslabe said:


> That's good, for a second I thought I was not worthy......


Ahhhhh ... I don't tink that was it ... I couldn't get in either, and it was MY album ...


----------



## Lloyd Collins

You have to grease the right palm.


----------



## Richard Baker

My wonderful Alumilite Silicon mold of the forward control panel had a reaction to the clear cast epoxy I used- good impressions but a sticky surface. The Alumilite resin designed to work with this is not clear so that's out for now. There are other materials out there I can order on line which would work but I am limited to what I have on hand now so I am back to 'Plan A'- a latex mold. It iwll take a while to build up the thicknesses but since I am only doing the forward and rear control panels it should not take too long.

.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

Is it done yet?:devil:


----------



## spocks beard

*frog tape*

How many modelers have used frog tape to do the stripes on their flying sub fins and other projects? I found this at lowes, and thought i'd give it a try when i mask off the fins for the stripes and the detailing of the view port.It says it gives razor sharp edges.Is it still a wise choice to spray a little dull coat along the tape edges before painting any ways?


----------



## steve123

Always hedge your bets, but that stuff is supposed to be great.

Steve


----------



## spocks beard

steve123 said:


> Always hedge your bets, but that stuff is supposed to be great.
> 
> Steve


Thanks! I'll still play it safe and use the dull coat as well.


----------



## steve123

Are you going to tackle the stripes tonight?

Spill a little blue paint to keep the paint Gods happy and it should go just swimmingly...

Steve


----------



## spocks beard

steve123 said:


> Are you going to tackle the stripes tonight?
> 
> Spill a little blue paint to keep the paint Gods happy and it should go just swimmingly...
> 
> Steve


Not tonight,Probably tomorrow evening.I'm taking a break for the rest of this evening and watching Rod serlings Night Gallery vol.2.Any body remember that show? I recently picked up at BestBuy.I got this kit in march, And compared to some of you guys, I'm a total snail.I think maby beatle paul built and painted his in a day or so I don't have a digi-camera to upload pictures of my build,Otherwise i would love to post some pix.Still thinking about getting one.


----------



## teslabe

Got some more work done this weekend on the floor lighting and the MP4 mods. I hope this shows what you need to do to make the MP4 work in your 
build....:wave:


----------



## retheridge

*Season 4*

Ok, does every one have their season 4 Voyage DVD yet? In the episode "Cave of the Dead" you get to see the Flying Subs claws and landing gear in action. Watch close, in one scene you can see the claws thru the windows.


----------



## teslabe

I feel bad that my earlier post might have made this mod an easy job, it is if
you are a good solderer. If not you may want to pass on this....


----------



## Richard Baker

The claws/gear model alway s had that problem. If only they had just used mirror of black viewports with the version.
I do like how Moebius not only added those hatches but included detailed interior surfaces on them.

.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

The floor lights came out beautifully. It looks like a lot of work, but I say worth it. 
I am going to have to brush up on my soldering, it has been a while.


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> The floor lights came out beautifully. It looks like a lot of work, but I say worth it.
> I am going to have to brush up on my soldering, it has been a while.


It was not that bad.... I've seen some detail work that was just amazing and 
this was very easy to do.....:thumbsup:


----------



## Richard Baker

I just pulled the first cast of the forward control console. This one has some tiny bubbles but for my purpose that does not matter- I will be painting the controls with transparent colors and the panel surfaces opaque.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030063-1.jpg
I am going to remove the existing face from the wall leaving the curved rim. I will then insert the clear face from the back. Since bth are identical I can use the same mold for both.
I went back to the latex mold this time- there is a solution out there for silicon and this clear epoxy, but I do not have the funds to get new materials right now. 
.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

It looks like it worked good. Are you planning any fibre optic work?


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> It looks like it worked good. Are you planning any fibre optic work?


Hi Lloyd, is that a question for me??? Forgive me if it's not.:wave:


----------



## Richard Baker

If the question was intended fo rme- yes.
I want to drill out a couple of things and run fiber optic to them linked to some of the color-shifting LEDs- just to give the control panel some activity-interest.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

The question was for Richard, but I wonder are you planning it to do it also, teslabe?

I don't have the FS yet, but next month I will, so I am asking and see what can be done.
I was thinking because of the size, that FO flashing lights would be perfect. I have different sized LEDs in all the colors, and varous sized FOs, to use, but FOs is probably the best way to cover more with less LEDs.


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> The question was for Richard, but I wonder are you planning it to do it also, teslabe?
> 
> I don't have the FS yet, but next month I will, so I am asking and see what can be done.
> I was thinking because of the size, that FO flashing lights would be perfect. I have different sized LEDs in all the colors, and varous sized FOs, to use, but FOs is probably the best way to cover more with less LEDs.


Yes, I plan to use FO along with some flashing 2mm LEDs. Right now I'm working on the ceiling lights, I'll post pictures as the work progresses. The LED backlight units worked out very well for the floor hex panels.:thumbsup:


----------



## Richard Baker

Before I decided to make the clear panels I started drilling holes for fiber optic with a pin drill. One thing I noticed is de to the scale of the model most control lights/readouts are too large or rectangular for fiber optic lighting. I drilled out the centers of some, thinking of heat-mushrooming the ends. I am still going to do some of that, but I really like the look of glowing rectangles through the viewports.


----------



## Richard Baker

teslabe said:


> Yes, I plan to use FO along with some flashing 2mm LEDs. Right now I'm working on the ceiling lights, I'll post pictures as the work progresses. The LED backlight units worked out very well for the floor hex panels.:thumbsup:


What configuration of ceiling lights? IIRC they did not show any on camera, just the shadowing on the girders indicated any. I am interested in what you have come up with for your build.


----------



## steve123

No fiber optics...but ohi! what a crew!.










Steve


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> What configuration of ceiling lights? IIRC they did not show any on camera, just the shadowing on the girders indicated any. I am interested in what you have come up with for your build.


Hi Richard, here are some very early photos of my ceiling lights. It took me some time to think of something that would look and work well with the kit.
Still not that happy with it, I might put some clear domes over them. I'll post when it's all done....:wave:


----------



## Richard Baker

Nice idea! Where did you find those LEDs? Those really work well mounted into the girders. I had been thinking of something in between the units but yours looks more like something they would build.

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Nice idea! Where did you find those LEDs? Those really work well mounted into the girders. I had been thinking of something in between the units but yours looks more like something they would build.
> 
> .


http://cgi.ebay.com/50-PCS-1206-SMT...h=item320163882403&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

I got the 100pcs for $31.99 with free shipping, they can be used all over, they are very small so you need to be good at soldering. If your real brave
you could go for the TB0603, now those are very small but very bright (2300mcd) the TB1206 are 2500mcd......:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Nice idea! Where did you find those LEDs? Those really work well mounted into the girders. I had been thinking of something in between the units but yours looks more like something they would build.
> 
> .


I'm sorry Richard, I didn't say thank you for your comments.:wave: I didn't want anything in the way when you looked down throught the docking ring and I didn't want something like large LEDs that would be out of scale for the build. Just my thought.....


----------



## Lloyd Collins

I like your placement of the LEDs, and are perfect size, too. 
Have you tested them out yet, to see how it looks lit? I am curious on how it woks out. Thanks for the link, I need to get some, for the FS,and other models,too.


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> I like your placement of the LEDs, and are perfect size, too.
> Have you tested them out yet, to see how it looks lit? I am curious on how it woks out. Thanks for the link, I need to get some, for the FS,and other models,too.


Hi Lloyd, here are the LEDs in my Seaveiw, I hope it helps. I do use a dimmer
circuit to make sure it looks right.


----------



## steve123

Kent, The ceiling lights look great! How bright is it in there when all fired up?

And I love the way Seaview came out too...very nice work. Thanks for not laughing at my control room build...lol

Steve


----------



## teslabe

steve123 said:


> Kent, The ceiling lights look great! How bright is it in there when all fired up?
> 
> And I love the way Seaview came out too...very nice work. Thanks for not laughing at my control room build...lol
> 
> Steve


Thanks Steve....:wave: The LEDs will be on a dimmer control so I can make 
them as bright as I need. I hope to have the frame work and wiring done and painted by next week. This weekend I had to paint the inside of both hulls flat black, the top will also get a final few coats of silver. Today I will be painting the outside of the hulls "Sun Yellow", then give it all a week to dry before I do the pin stripping.


----------



## steve123

Who makes the Sun yellow?


Now that sounds like a "straight line" if I ever heard one...lol

Steve


----------



## teslabe

steve123 said:


> Who makes the Sun yellow?
> 
> 
> Now that sounds like a "straight line" if I ever heard one...lol
> 
> Steve


"Painter's Touch" by Rust-Oleum, it great paint to work with.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

teslabe,I never thought of using a dimmer control, so thanks for the info, and photo.
Your control room, looks SO good, with the LEDs. 

I bought school bus yellow, which I found at an auto parts store.


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> teslabe,I never thought of using a dimmer control, so thanks for the info, and photo.
> Your control room, looks SO good, with the LEDs.
> 
> I bought school bus yellow, which I found at an auto parts store.


The dimmer circuit is one I designed for my Nixie Tube Clocks kits, I have blue
LEDs under the tubes to make them look more interesting. I have so many
tube support boards leftover that I just cut the dimmer from the right end 
of the board and now use them in my builds.....:thumbsup: Thank you very much 
for the comments....:wave:


----------



## Richard Baker

I like your retro clock idea- those are nifty.

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> I like your retro clock idea- those are nifty.
> 
> .


Thank you Richard, they come with a GPS receiver for "Atomic Clock" accuracy.


----------



## Lloyd Collins

That clock is so neat,cool.....Oh! Just plain awesome!


----------



## teslabe

Lloyd Collins said:


> That clock is so neat,cool.....Oh! Just plain awesome!


Thank you Lloyd....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Please fell free to ask any thing about this build...:wave:


----------



## richlen2

I'm new to forums and I'm building the FS now and thanks to this forum I made some decisions that worked well for me and might help others. People mentioned both Titanium and Aluminum for the bulkhead color. I tried both and Ti was too dark (a shade up from Gunmetal) and Al was too silver--so I sprayed the bulkheads using Testors Metalizer first with titanium then a light spray of aluminum over it (very light--two Quick passes) and what I got was a PERFECT powdered metal look just like the TV show. I've also been messing with yellows and found Rustoleum Painters Touch Marigold Gloss to be perfect. it's a deep yellow, a shade up from school bus but deeper and richer than sun yellow. 

Now does anyone have any helpful suggestions on doing the blue trim--namely the best way to mask it?


----------



## steve123

I really sweated that one. I'm not completely happy, but the few boo boos fix easily. Somebody here is making decals (forgive me for forgetting whom) I taped off where I wanted the stripes, after I was done with that I shot some clear over where the blue was going(to seal the tape)
shoot the blue, and remove tape..I got wet blue paint on a finger and was lucky that that big 'ole print came right off...lol (tamiya paint has a very tough hard gloss)
Steve


----------



## falcon49xxxx

Tamiya Masking Tape................


----------



## Richard Baker

AzteK Dummy has masks for the Flying Sub
http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/inde...Product_ID=1425&CFID=1920125&CFTOKEN=53811173


----------



## gojira61

falcon49xxx said:


> Tamiya Masking Tape................


The stuff really is magic. If have never found anything better.


----------



## spocks beard

richlen2 said:


> I'm new to forums and I'm building the FS now and thanks to this forum I made some decisions that worked well for me and might help others. People mentioned both Titanium and Aluminum for the bulkhead color. I tried both and Ti was too dark (a shade up from Gunmetal) and Al was too silver--so I sprayed the bulkheads using Testors Metalizer first with titanium then a light spray of aluminum over it (very light--two Quick passes) and what I got was a PERFECT powdered metal look just like the TV show. I've also been messing with yellows and found Rustoleum Painters Touch Marigold Gloss to be perfect. it's a deep yellow, a shade up from school bus but deeper and richer than sun yellow.
> 
> Now does anyone have any helpful suggestions on doing the blue trim--namely the best way to mask it?


Hi, & welcome! I used a painters tape called Frog tape to do my flying sub stripes, And they turned out great. In fact i was amazed at how razor sharp the lines actually turned out.you can find it at your local Lowes, & probably any other hardware store.You can't miss it on the shelf, It's green-Hence the name Frog tape:dude:Good luck on the rest of your build.PS This tape has excellent sealent ability, But i still shot some dullcoat along the tape line to be safe.


----------



## richlen2

Thank you so much! That is great advice. I'll run to Lowe's tomorrow. However, I am unfamilar with the "Dullcoat" technique you mention. So I assume I paint the sub yellow first, then mask for the blue with the Frog tape--and then spray dullcoat on the tape (or the tape and yellow where I am going to spray), let it dry and then spray the blue?


----------



## teslabe

richlen2 said:


> Thank you so much! That is great advice. I'll run to Lowe's tomorrow. However, I am unfamilar with the "Dullcoat" technique you mention. So I assume I paint the sub yellow first, then mask for the blue with the Frog tape--and then spray dullcoat on the tape (or the tape and yellow where I am going to spray), let it dry and then spray the blue?


The Frog tape is great......:thumbsup:


----------



## spocks beard

richlen2 said:


> Thank you so much! That is great advice. I'll run to Lowe's tomorrow. However, I am unfamilar with the "Dullcoat" technique you mention. So I assume I paint the sub yellow first, then mask for the blue with the Frog tape--and then spray dullcoat on the tape (or the tape and yellow where I am going to spray), let it dry and then spray the blue?


Yep, spray some testors dullcoat along the tape line, & it will add a little more added protection.Did you glue the top and bottom halves of the hull together yet? If not leave them unglued while you work on the stripe detailing.That way you can do the top section set it aside to dry, Then tackle the bottom .I'm sure you already know this any way, but make sure you mask off the rest of the parts of the sub that is to remain yellow so's to protect it from any blue over spray.Believe me, I probably went over board masking the hulls up, But it's worth it.If you haven't painted the sub yellow yet, When you do,You might want to let it dry at least 24 hours before you go to do the stripes as you may damage the paint lifting the masking tape off.Good luck:thumbsup:


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## Lloyd Collins

Can you paint the blue first, then yellow? Just curious.

I have the Frog tape, but haven't really put it to the test. I will try the dullcote tip, which just lately is the first time I heard of this.


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## richlen2

Two questions...Since the dullcote will obviously spill on the already painted yellow will the finalsatin or gloss coat cover the dullcoat spill so you can't see it?

Other people have suggested painting the blue first...I'm not sure why. Can anyone give an opinion? It would seem I couldn't do that with the aztek dummy masks.


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## Lou Dalmaso

It would be better to paint the blue after the yellow if you are using my masks.
also, I would not recommend spraying dullcoat over them. That method is great for a paper tapes, but the vinyl works just fine at keeping the paint from creeping under all by itself.


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## Richard Baker

My company makes sub-surface signage and we use straight high performance vinyl (Gerber/3M). The vinyl is reverse cut, applied to the back then a background color is sprayed on usung a high pressure setup in our spraybooth. In 20 years we have only had to redo a sign a handful of times and that was causes but a noobie not puting the vinyl on properly.

.


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## spocks beard

richlen2 said:


> Two questions...Since the dullcote will obviously spill on the already painted yellow will the finalsatin or gloss coat cover the dullcoat spill so you can't see it?
> 
> Other people have suggested painting the blue first...I'm not sure why. Can anyone give an opinion? It would seem I couldn't do that with the aztek dummy masks.


If you mask the rest of the hull up good,This will protect any of the rest of the yellow paint from catching any dullcoat over spray or blue over spray.The only part of the yellow that might catch some dull coat is the parts which will end up being sprayed blue,So it will not be noticeable.And yes, I'm pretty sure dull coat can be covered over nicely with various satins and gloss sprays.Just my opinion, But i'm thinking the main advantage to spraying the blue on first is that it might be a little easier to mask off.There was another discussion here about painting the blue on first,But from what i read, it's harder to cover over a darker color with a lighter color.Thus using more yellow and possibly having the paint run.:thumbsup:


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## starseeker

A year or two on a thread that was collapsed into this thread I posted some details of the differences between the 9, two 18, and five 36 Flying Sub miniatures. I'm finally getting around to showing these differences graphically (which might be more useful), here:
http://s1004.photobucket.com/albums/af170/jkirkphotos/Flying Sub Miniature Detail Differences/
I've got 4 more 36" left to go. With luck I'll get them up this week. 
As always, anyone with any additions or corrections, please let me know.


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## Richard Baker

Fantastic Summary- thanks for your hard work in making this.


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## starseeker

You're welcome! - and it was fun. Just did some minor tweaks to all of them and got the last ones posted. I'm suspecting that what might have been a 6th may be a poor restoration of a 5th, so unless I can find new details somewhere someday, I'm leaving it there. Pending any errors or omissions that anyone can point out, of course.


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## jbond

Very nice--one minor correction or addition: you're right that there are no shots of the 9" FS launching from the 8.5 foot Seaview but there are definitely shots of the two miniatures "interacting." There's a shot of the Seaview hovering over the 9" FS as it's sitting on the ocean floor as the Seaview prepares to recover the FS magnetically. There's also an episode late in the show's run I believe where the Seaview is taken over by intelligent plant-life and Nelson (under the plant's influence) escapes from the Seaview in the FS and uses the FS to attack the sub. There's a shot from behind the Seaview's sail that shows the FS emerging from underneath the bow, presumably right after it has launched, and some interesting shots of the small FS making attack runs at the Seaview.


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## starseeker

I love those shots of the FS and the Seaview together, and I'd run off and watch them now if I could remember which episode it was (Deadly Dolls? Blow Up?). Watching the DVDs, I was really suprised at what great Fx footage they used 4th season. I would have thought that the way Allen's shows went that they would have lost interest in using anything but the same old footage over and over again but there is some great stuff in that year. I think I read somewhere that new stuff was filmed prior to the 4th season. Not only is it good enough to stand up to almost anything 45 years later, but it was so good it inspired a whole generation or two of modellers. Tho' I have to admit the HMAS Hammersley is now right up there along with the Seaview, but still only as my second favorite television ship.


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## megabot11

Not sure if this is one of the 9"cher shots you were mentioning.


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## Xenodyssey

It's a pity there aren't any mainstream kits of the Armidale class ships because I'd like to make one as well. It's a great design...Or are you talking about the Fremantle class that was in season 1 of Sea Patrol?



starseeker said:


> ...
> years later, but it was so good it inspired a whole generation or two of modellers. Tho' I have to admit the HMAS Hammersley is now right up there along with the Seaview, but still only as my second favorite television ship.


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## megabot11

:Starseeker:

I really like your comparisons of the three size miniatures.

Mike


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