# Slow Setting Styrene Cement???



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Hi,

Looking for recommendations for a styrene cement that would allow me 60 seconds or so of applying, and getting a good alignment before I put the two halves together permanently. 

Thanks for any thoughts...


----------



## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

The non-toxic cements, like Testors blue tube and Microscale micro weld are good for that. The citrus based solvent is slow acting and gives extra working time.


----------



## Skymods (Feb 5, 2001)

What are you using now? What don't you like about it? Is it setting up too fast? Or is it too thin and evaporating before you can put the parts together?

Dave


----------



## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

robn1 said:


> The non-toxic cements, like Testors blue tube and Microscale micro weld are good for that. The citrus based solvent is slow acting and gives extra working time.


I'll second the recommendation for Testors Styrene Cement, but I'd recommend the stuff in the red tube. I've tried their non-toxic version in the blue tube, and in my experience it doesn't bond the parts as well.

However...fair warning. If you're unfamiliar with using Testors' styrene cement, I'd recommend you get some practice with it by building a cheap kit that you don't care about first, because it's "gooey" consistency can create a mess if it ends up where you don't want it. Also, you'll need patience because you'll have to clamp the parts together and set them aside for several hours while the cement cures.

That said, I've used Testors' cement on every styrene kit I've built over the last 40+ years, and I still prefer it to everything else for most applications. And because of the way it "melts" the parts together, with enough practice (i.e., learning where to put it) more often than not it becomes it's own seam filler, and most of the time the seam disappears with a little sanding and no putty (on kits with smooth surfaces and no surface texture, that is).


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

robn1 said:


> The non-toxic cements, like Testors blue tube and Microscale micro weld are good for that. The citrus based solvent is slow acting and gives extra working time.


Thanks, Robin.

Do you think they would allow me 60 seconds to glue and then put the halves together?


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Skymods said:


> What are you using now? What don't you like about it? Is it setting up too fast? Or is it too thin and evaporating before you can put the parts together?


Normally I would put the parts together then use Tamiya Extra Thin. This sets too fast for my current need. Tamiya (regular) cement, I believe may work as it's thicker and sets up more slowly, but I'll have to experiments with it first.

Anyone know how long the Regular Tamiya takes to set?


----------



## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I glued a 1/350 Enterprise nacelle together last night, and I chose good ol' Testors orange tube glue. Ran a bead along the edges, knowing it would stay gooey for a minute or so while I applied it and manhandled the large parts together. I rubber-banded it real good to hold it together.

Then I attached the bussard assembly by holding it in place and wicking in some Tenax.


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

I've been using the Testors in the blue tube for years and have had no problems with it.


----------



## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Id just use regular Testors red tube cement. Hate the blue tube non toxic stuff. I do like the Gunze and Tamiya Lemon/Limone liquid glues. They are rather slow but actually very very strong.


----------



## Skymods (Feb 5, 2001)

taneal1 said:


> Normally I would put the parts together then use Tamiya Extra Thin. This sets too fast for my current need. Tamiya (regular) cement, I believe may work as it's thicker and sets up more slowly, but I'll have to experiments with it first.
> 
> Anyone know how long the Regular Tamiya takes to set?


On my current project, I just switched from Tamiya Extra Thin to their regular cement for the exact same reason. The Tamiya regular is brushed on. It is thinner than Testors red tube, but is still thick enough to stay put until you put the parts together. I really like it. You will have plenty of work time, and it cures faster than the Testors.

Dave


----------



## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Thanks to all who responded!

Tom


----------



## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

Unless my memory is poor,in the 60's and 70's the Testors tube glue remained in it's honey like state longer,so there was plenty of time to align the parts in place,especially the big ones before the curing process took place.These days it cures too fast.I wished they would also offer a slower curing glue for big parts.Same thing with paints for those who like using a hand brush when painting as it could greatly reduce the brush marks on the kit as well as lessen the reaction between latest painted section of the kit and the previous but still wet painted section of the same kit.If the paint becomes pasty too fast,the results are a less refined paint job.I think that testors should at least experiment in producing a slower curing paint and glue in their lab order to see if this would greatly improve in the building and painting of kits.


----------



## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

Another vote for Testors orange/red tube glue. Also another thumbs down on the blue tube. It just doesn't work very well. I dunno, maybe I just got a bad tube.

I don't know what you are gluing but sometimes on a kit with lots of linear area to cover I glue/clamp half-ish of it and then come back and glue/clamp the other half-ish. It just depends on the parts being glued.


----------



## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

The Testors in the blue tube works for some folks but at the same time it does not work for others, and that's just the way the cookie crumbles.:wave:


----------

