# Gooping of Track Slots



## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

Tried searching for this topic, thought I saw it before, but can't find it now. Sorry for the repeat. Has anyone tried using Bill's gooping methods on track slots? As my tracks have aged, they have settled in and a few curves have small gaps in the slots (Tomy AFX track, pre 1990). I was debating on filling them in and thought Bill's goop would be at least as tough as the original plastic and would not wear away as quickly as bondo or water putty. So has anyone done something similar and has recommendations?

-Paul


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## tabcomary (Jun 2, 2010)

I have done something similar with a skid pad track made from Aurora A/FX track. It takes a while to dry, but it seems to be working well. I have a big series of skid pad tests coming up. I will know more once I get them finished.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

pshoe64 said:


> Tried searching for this topic, thought I saw it before, but can't find it now. Sorry for the repeat. Has anyone tried using Bill's gooping methods on track slots? As my tracks have aged, they have settled in and a few curves have small gaps in the slots (Tomy AFX track, pre 1990). I was debating on filling them in and thought Bill's goop would be at least as tough as the original plastic and would not wear away as quickly as bondo or water putty. So has anyone done something similar and has recommendations?
> 
> -Paul


Sorry Shoe, 

I missed this question. I dont see why you couldnt. BUT, as I know nothing about cooking with Tomy track; from the hip, I'd make a short batch first and do a few test skims to ascertain compatibility, bond strength, and most importantly get the mixture just right with regard to solvent content. AKA work out the solvent to plastic ratio before ya make a gallon of runny "ooops!". Additionally, I would also want to gauge the shrinkage factor beforehand, if there's going to be one. If there was an advantage to this process it would be that; unlike conventional fillers the goop filler would have the same relative expansion and contraction rate as the track it was made from.

Ideally you'd want the mixture to be on the sticky side. Short of being doughy; so that you can cut a nice little roll like an artist would load a paint knife with oil paint. You dont want the "roll" of filler to be so thick that flashes off or skins over before you can apply it. Conversly, also consider that the goop cant be too thin; so that the mixture sluffs or runs from the vertical plane and into the slot thus requiring a second filler pass. You want filler....not glazing, so's not to create any extra finishing work IF ANY; be it additional fills/skims....or ... the dreaded removal of excess material in the form of laborious sanding or filing in the bottom of the slot.

WHEN WORKING WITH THICKER GOOP YOU MUST PREWET THE REPAIR AREA WITH TESTORS;

After you get a batch brewed and are satisfied, I'd hit the second hand store and pick up some cheap stainless knives to make into specialty or specific use tools for the project. Bend, beat, and grind the crap cutlery into little spatulas, spreaders, scrapers or trowels. Bleach or milk jugs can provide a zillion disposable spreaders. Like anything thing else, even goop wont stick to poly! I'd again go with the bench test/test shot and work out any kinks or bends you might need to improve the tools and thus your technique. Given the size of your layout, I'd wanna have my ducks in a row before I began a big DOT project.

For refinishing the slot. I've used a thin piece of sheet metal in the straights. Best to have it a comfortable size for your hand and the right thickness so you have side clearence in the slot when it's wrapped with sand paper. You want to be able to work one side or the other....not just beat it in a grind a wallow where the repair was made. I prefer sticky back paper for this. More expensive but the advantage will be obvious when you find yourself trying to sand in a hole/slot on a layout of your size.

In the corners, a piece of thin plastic like PTEG used with sticky back sand paper seemed to be the ticket. Control of what/where your sanding can be somewhat trickey in the corners. You'll have to stay keen and be cautious to control the ends of the tool that are beyond or over lap the immediate repair area. You dont want the unwatched "tensioned" ends working in wallows on the opposite ends of the repair while you're distracted by trying to sand the inside or outside edge of the slot at the repair site. Just go slow and stay aware. It's all in the wrist!

I like to have dummy/roller chassis on hand that I can use as a "feeler". Like a big wheeled t-jet or and AFX that has true wheels and tires and axles with tires preferably on the hard side so they dont goosh or squeeze as you roll it along. All you want is the chassis guide and wheels so you can set your fingers into the comm pit and gently roll it along the slot through the repair area. Be sure to put a little english on the "feeler" chassis so you check both sides of the repair. You will immediatly feel any areas of dubious finish. With the shoes and springs installed on your "feeler" you can also check any discrepancies in rail height at the joints. IMHO it's easier to do the slot first and then do the rail snaggles seperately so you can clearly differentiate between the two problems and know exactly what's what.


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