# AMT 1/16 scale '57 Thunderbird build



## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

Going through my photos of this just-completed project I've realised I have enough to put together something approaching a build record. Here goes...

Having completed three builds since returning to the hobby a year or two ago (and learning a lot in the process!) last autumn I finally felt brave enough to tackle a slightly more detailed build project. At that time whoever currently owns AMT had released a limited re-run of their beautiful '57 Mk 1 Ford Thunderbird 1/16 scale kit and I was lucky enough to grab one before they all sold out (thanks to Jacksons Models up in Cumbria, UK). I decided on a very mild custom build with as much detailing as I was capable of at the time.

First was the engine build using the optional custom carbs and air cleaner supplied. I soon discovered that the tubing for the plug leads was far too fat, the leads looking more like heater hoses, and the distributor cap had the leads exiting vertically instead of horizontally as per the original engine, so they had to go. I fashioned new plug leads using garden tying wire (rigid but bendable, roughly the right diameter and colour) and flattened the top of the distributor cap to take them. The end result isn't in the same league as the superbly detailed engine built by Steve but 'tis a lot better than the AMT stock offering...


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

The next stage was the interior. I'd already trawled through many Internet images of the real thing and decided on a colour scheme, using Humbrol satin and gloss brush paints but a Tamiya metallic light blue rattle-can for the bodywork. The dashboard taxed me to the limit as the instrument dial decals were massively oversize and I had to freehand most of them, but I was already impressed with the moulding quality and finish of the parts...


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

Next came the chassis. Wanting something a bit more realistic than flat black for the underbody I opted for Humbrol matt gunmetal for most of it but tried experimenting with Tamiya acrylic metallic gunmetal for the main members, also using it to good effect on the exhaust manifolds. This part of the build was pretty easy as the parts all went together very well...






























One minor annoyance discovered at this stage was that the metal axles were too wide and had to be cut down in order to use the optional mag wheels. These in turn were found to be too wide for the tyres, something I rectified after these photos were taken, by carefully inserting a bead of superglue between each tyre bead and the wheel rim.

The more observant amongst you will have noticed that the fan was also slightly pissed crooked when the photos were taken - this has also been rectified once I noticed it. 
😊


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

Next, the door cards had to be painted to match the rest of the interior...










...at this stage I realised that a decent set of paintbrushes were a must!


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

After a brief Interlude (it was called "winter") the weather was finally warm enough to work in the garage so spraying the bodyshell could commence. I prepped it as best I knew at the time, using the finest grade of wet/dry I had, first dry, then wet, having first carefully removed all the moulding lines and seams by careful scraping with a scalpel and a fresh blade. Humbrol model filler was then used to fill what few faults there were, mainly around the rear lights, before rubbing down again. Lather, rinse, repeat until a decent finish was obtained, then spraying commenced. Several light even coats later a decent finish was obtained, even and with neither runs nor overspray which was a huge relief...


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

I was contemplating the inadequacies of Humbrol silver enamel paint when a conversation with my older brother came in useful. He collects and restores old 1/43rd scale Dinky and Corgi models and happened to mention that his wife, who is an artist, had suggested he try using acrylic paint pens from a local arts and crafts shop. I tried same and the results were excellent...


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

Final assembly then commenced - doors, windscreen and engine bay...


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

...followed by the most exciting and satisfying bit, the final mating of chassis, interior and bodyshell.


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

All that remained was to fit the radiator and coolant hoses, the grille, bumpers, lights, badges, registration plates, door handles and all the other gubbins that turn it into a finished model...


















This shot is actually a close-up of the reflection of the underbody detail in the mirrored base. I'll explain later!


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

And finally...

I store all my models in display cases made from the Triple 9 collection (again thanks to Jacksons Models) and an idea occurred to me that having spent so much time detailing the underside it would be a shame if no-one could see it without tipping the model over. After a long seach I found an Amazon merchant offering a self-adhesive mirror film that I could easily cut and stick to the base of the display cases and this has proved to be very effective.

I hope I haven't bored you or made this too verbose, either in text or images - please feel free to let me know and if I have, my apologies.

My next project won't even be started for a while, it's a very old AMT 1/16th scale kit of the 1964/5 Ford Mustang which I found in a specialist buyer/seller of old model kits. Once I start it I'll document it properly on this site.


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

Here are some more pics I omitted from the last post, showing the hardtop and more of the final details...


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## aussiemuscle308 (Dec 2, 2014)

it's a fabulous build. nice mods and paint.
it's a shame the big scale models don't have any more detail than a 1/25 scale kit


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

A very nice build and detail. 🤙 

One of the display tricks I have seen at car shows is to lift the car on stands with mirrors underneath like you have done. Some even tilt one side higher to show even more of the under carriage. It is very effective as you walk around the car.

In a display case would be limited some what but might still work for your photo shoots. 


IMG_8801 by Milton Fox, on Flickr


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

aussiemuscle308 said:


> it's a fabulous build. nice mods and paint.
> it's a shame the big scale models don't have any more detail than a 1/25 scale kit


It's actually just as well for me as I don't think my eyesight and dexterity would be good enough to handle further detail!

@Milton Fox: I actually got the mirror idea from a custom car show and it took a LOT of Amazon surfing but I found a supplier of self-adhesive mirror film that is easy to cut and apply to the base of the display cases. It seems to work pretty well.


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## Michaelkeith (Sep 23, 2020)

Just beautiful!


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

A wonderful job! I love this early T-Bird and made a 1/25 recently. Your chosen colors fit perfectly and stop talking about your age! your doing great and deserve more self confidence.  

Every once in a while I´m thinking about bigger scale models. But I´m afraid that I will end up with no more space on my shelves if I go down that road. I can put three 1/25 on a board instead of one 1/16. 

Have you ever thought about using bare metal for the chrome details? Applying it can be a pain in the you know what sometimes, but the results are really reflective shiny. Otherwise MOLOTOW Liquid Chrome Pens. Much more shine than your average paint pen. Forget the 1mm pen, the tip dries out too fast, or will spill and mess your model. But the 2mm works very well. Let it dry for a least one day, and take care not to touch too much afterwards because the fingerprints might stay. If your afraid of messy edges you can use fine masking tape.

I have discovered, that you can apply the bare metal and MOLOTOW and afterwards finish with a clear gloss coat. It won´t rub off any more and you cannot accidentally peal the bare metal edges.


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## Bloodnok (9 mo ago)

Thanks for your comments and for the advice, I really appreciate both. Oddly enough until I joined I hadn't heard of either Bare Metal or MOLOTOW pens but my older brother recently put me onto silver paint pens, one of which (with a 2.5mm tip) I used for the windscreen wipers and rear window framing. I have a 1mm MOLOTOW pen on order as of earlier today, purely for very fine detail work and will see how it goes before trying Bare Metal foil.


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