# My 1/350 TOS E Build :)



## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Hey everyone. Been away for a while and now with the release of this kit, I've decided to dive back into modeling. Just received my kit today and did a dry fit and dry mounting of everything....










....I purchased the deluxe accessory kit and I have some questions. It's easiest for me to just make a video explaining the advice I need....















Thanks a ton everyone and stay tuned for more updates....

:thumbsup:


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Flat Gull Gray...


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Hi, Sam. Not too sure what you mean about "painting the inside of the clear pieces"?

Sanded with fine grit sandpaper, rubbed with steel wool or shot with Dullcote are three main methods of frosting the domes and rotating Bussard fans, but you don't need to paint the﻿ interior surface of either.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Thanks. Here's how it turned out. What do you guys think...

































:thumbsup:


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> Thanks. Here's how it turned out. What do you guys think...
> 
> CIMG5012 - YouTube
> 
> ...


your frosted dome looks great. What did you frost it with? I sprayed a matte flat rustloeum on it both inside and out , and it is too thick I think. there are hotter spots on the outer part of the dome.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

jaws62666 said:


> your frosted dome looks great. What did you frost it with? I sprayed a matte flat rustloeum on it both inside and out , and it is too thick I think. there are hotter spots on the outer part of the dome.


Thanks. I sanded the entire inside of the dome with 1500 grit sandpaper and then sprayed a coat of dull. I left the outside of the dome intact. By that I mean I did nothing to it. Left it clear.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Nice work Zenomorp! They look really good.

Make sure you reverse the wiring on one of the motors. They should be turning in opposite directions. As viewed from the front I believe the port nacelle turns CW and the starboard nacelle turns CCW.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> Nice work Zenomorp! They look really good.
> 
> Make sure you reverse the wiring on one of the motors. They should be turning in opposite directions. As viewed from the front I believe the port nacelle turns CW and the starboard nacelle turns CCW.


Thanks! You are a lifesaver! I totally forgot about that. I'd have been kicking myself for a while. That's why this is just a run-through build. I'm fore-going the build of the bridge and hangar on this one because I just want to get a feel for the ol' girl and I'll tackle them on the next build.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

That looks good! I am kinda missing the green and blue lights, but I think what you did looks fantastic!


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> Thanks! You are a lifesaver! I totally forgot about that. I'd have been kicking myself for a while. That's why this is just a run-through build. I'm fore-going the build of the bridge and hangar on this one because I just want to get a feel for the ol' girl and I'll tackle them on the next build.


Ive done the bridge and hangar and shuttle. check out my WIP
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=379271


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

The hangar assy is necessary to mount the bay doors, without it you will need to make some sort of bulkhead to mount the doors on.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Progress pics. Still a LOT of seam work to do, but coming along nicely. Bad news regarding the flashers. I'll detail that later...


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

And another Nacelle video...








:thumbsup:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Nice blocking of light leaks. How did you manage it? I sprayed the interior of mine in black then coated in gloss white. I still had many leaks so I covered the inside with chrome tape. This reduced the leaks but they are still present. So how did you do it?


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> Nice blocking of light leaks. How did you manage it? I sprayed the interior of mine in black then coated in gloss white. I still had many leaks so I covered the inside with chrome tape. This reduced the leaks but they are still present. So how did you do it?


Aluminum Foil Tape. These are un-finished pictures because I ended up using more that what you see, but you get the general idea....


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

Zenomorp - Where did you get your tape? - do you have a name brand? The only tape I have found locally is something called reflectix tape - but it looks more suited to AC ductwork.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

trumpetpa said:


> Zenomorp - Where did you get your tape? - do you have a name brand? The only tape I have found locally is something called reflectix tape - but it looks more suited to AC ductwork.


I dont have a name, but I got 2 nice rolls at Wal Mart near the paints and hardware. Works great, ver sticky, but not too thick


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

trumpetpa said:


> Zenomorp - Where did you get your tape? - do you have a name brand? The only tape I have found locally is something called reflectix tape - but it looks more suited to AC ductwork.




http://www.shop3m.com/3m-aluminum-foil-tape-425-m0w7g3trkr.html


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I was thinking of using bare metal foil where needed, but I'm guessing that your tape will be cheeper.

Opus Penguin, It's a pain that your getting light leaks. I've painted the inside like you did and was hoping that would be enough with the thick plastic.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

mach7 said:


> I was thinking of using bare metal foil where needed, but I'm guessing that your tape will be cheeper.
> 
> Opus Penguin, It's a pain that your getting light leaks. I've painted the inside like you did and was hoping that would be enough with the thick plastic.


I only foil taped the saucer. I used two coats of black on the inside of the neck and secondary hull. That coupled with the base coat and top coats on the outside proved quite effective at blocking the light. Only light leaks I have are seam areas.


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Wow! It leaks that badly?

I guess I had better find some of that foil tape...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nova Designs said:


> Wow! It leaks that badly?
> 
> I guess I had better find some of that foil tape...


Most RC hobby shops carry adhesive-backed aluminum foil sheets in different colors. Used for making repairs to decals on airplanes.


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

zenomorp said:


> I only foil taped the saucer. I used two coats of black on the inside of the neck and secondary hull. That coupled with the base coat and top coats on the outside proved quite effective at blocking the light. Only light leaks I have are seam areas.



Good to know, thanks.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Some progress pics. Decals still need to be applied and the domes at the aft end of the nacelles are still drying, but otherwise, it's all done! Got the seam work and all the paint touch ups done as well. Thanks for looking!...














































(the actual light demo starts at 3:43 if you don't want to watch the whole 9 minutes)...


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> Some progress pics. Decals still need to be applied and the domes at the aft end of the nacelles are still drying, but otherwise, it's all done! Got the seam work and all the paint touch ups done as well. Thanks for looking!...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great video and pics. My flashers are working fine now. I hope I don't have the same problems you did once assembled. The flashers really enhance the build. Are you going to use the weathering decals. I will use mine, but Id love to see what they look like completed.


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

What color mixes did you paint yours with?


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

jaws62666 said:


> Great video and pics. My flashers are working fine now. I hope I don't have the same problems you did once assembled. The flashers really enhance the build. Are you going to use the weathering decals. I will use mine, but Id love to see what they look like completed.


Thanks! I planned to use them, but I haven't seen any pics of what they look like. I'd prefer to see a build that used them to get an idea of how they look before I put them on.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Gary7 said:


> What color mixes did you paint yours with?


The whole ship is Flat Gull Gray. Other colors used were Metallic Silver, Gunship Gray, Light Ghost Gray, Regular Silver.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Beautiful work zeno.* You should be proud.
Great addition to the Star Trek pinball machine!:thumbsup:
-Jim


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

JGG1701 said:


> *Beautiful work zeno.* You should be proud.
> Great addition to the Star Trek pinball machine!:thumbsup:
> -Jim


Thanks a lot! Can't wait to get the decals on.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

She looks beautiful Zeno! :thumbsup:
Lookin' forward to your finishing touches.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> She looks beautiful Zeno! :thumbsup:
> Lookin' forward to your finishing touches.


Thanks! Decals on. Final pieces on. 100% done (decals are still setting though). Here are some final pics. I can take other angles for reference if anyone might be interested. I usually spray the entire model with a dull coat to seal the decals, but I don't want to opaque the windows. What do you guys use to seal the decals? Thanks for looking and opinions, good or bad, are always welcome!...


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*looking good*

looks like a nice job on the painting, now to just find a place to show it. This kit is so nice your just gonna want to have it some place special if you just find the room.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

She looks great all lit up Zeno. Nice work! :thumbsup:


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## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Looks great!

How were the decals? In the past, for me, R2s decals have been a pain.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

mach7 said:


> Looks great!
> 
> How were the decals? In the past, for me, R2s decals have been a pain.


Had a lot of issues with anything that was Red. The nacelle decals and secondary hull decals broke in several places but I was able to salvage them all. I need help with what to use to 'seal' them because they are an absolute eye sore. Here is a pic of what they look like after nearly 24 hours of "setting"....


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*color*

what color did you use ? I swear, in my work room Tamiya AS-2 looks brownish green under flouestant lights, but now my kit out here in the family room under incandesant ceiling lights look battle ship gray


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Flat Gull Gray.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Oops. Almost forgot the before/afters....


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> Oops. Almost forgot the before/afters....


Beautiful. Hope mine comes out as nice


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

One of the reasons your decals are not setting down nicely is that you put them on the flat paint. Because the surface of flat paint is so rough it will allow the water to evaporate and the spaces left behind fill with air. That is where the "silvering" affect comes from. It is best to spray the flat paint with a clear gloss coat. Then apply the decals. After the decals are dry, then you spray a coat of flat clear sealer.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> One of the reasons your decals are not setting down nicely is that you put them on the flat paint. Because the surface of flat paint is so rough it will allow the water to evaporate and the spaces left behind fill with air. That is where the "silvering" affect comes from. It is best to spray the flat paint with a clear gloss coat. Then apply the decals. After the decals are dry, then you spray a coat of flat clear sealer.


Is there anything I can do at this point?


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

At this point, the only thing that may work is to try using copious amounts of Micro Sol on the decals to get them to conform to the rough, flat paint. When you first apply it, the decals will wrinkle up - don't panic, this is normal. After a day or so, the decals will settle and conform to the surface. You may also need to make tiny 'pin pricks' with a needle point or #11 tip to release trapped air under the decals as you apply the solvent. Since the decals have already silvered, this may not make much of a difference, but it is worth a try.

If you do this process and it does work, and the silvering is minimized, then coat your decals with a clear finish to seal them in.

You should try testing this on a few of the smaller decals first, to check the results, before trying it with the whole model.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Trek Ace said:


> At this point, the only thing that may work is to try using copious amounts of Micro Sol on the decals to get them to conform to the rough, flat paint. When you first apply it, the decals will wrinkle up - don't panic, this is normal. After a day or so, the decals will settle and conform to the surface. You may also need to make tiny 'pin pricks' with a needle point or #11 tip to release trapped air under the decals as you apply the solvent. Since the decals have already silvered, this may not make much of a difference, but it is worth a try.
> 
> If you do this process and it does work, and the silvering is minimized, then coat your decals with a clear finish to seal them in.
> 
> You should try testing this on a few of the smaller decals first, to check the results, before trying it with the whole model.


Thanks! I'll give it a try and report back.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

zenomorp said:


> I usually spray the entire model with a dull coat to seal the decals, but I don't want to opaque the windows.


If you brush on some Future gloss over the windows after Dullcoting it will restore their clarity.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Ok, I took Trek Ace and Trekkriffic's advice and after applying they're suggestions and a generous coat of clear, I am pleased to say the decals are MUCH MUCH better! Thanks a ton guys. I can now say I am 100% officially done with this kit and it's ready to display. Thanks for everyone's help. Opinions...?


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

zenomorp said:


> Ok, I took Trek Ace and Trekkriffic's advice and after applying they're suggestions and a generous coat of clear, I am pleased to say the decals are MUCH MUCH better! Thanks a ton guys. I can now say I am 100% officially done with this kit and it's ready to display. Thanks for everyone's help. Opinions...?


She looks beautiful! Hubba, hubba! Really nice! Just curious why you didn't paint the impulse engines a darker grey, along with that whatchamacallit on the back part of the upper saucer... somebody please identify that thing for me that looks kinda like an embedded torpedo.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Proper2, I thought the impulse vents were supposed to be hull color? I know they look darker on the show but I thought it was trick of lighting. In any case, fantastic job on this Zenomorph!


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> Proper2, I thought the impulse vents were supposed to be hull color? I know they look darker on the show but I thought it was trick of lighting. In any case, fantastic job on this Zenomorph!


Thanks Opus! And Proper2, I know the kit instructions call for them to be darker, but in all the pictures I've ever seen of the studio model or otherwise, they've always been the same color as the hull, but I of course could be wrong.


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## wayvryder (Apr 11, 2010)

Consider the source material (Air and Space Museum model) here: http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x394/wayvryder1/SDC11638_zps25d2a26b.jpg


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

You know, the decals and markings are, more or less, straight lines and very few curves... one could feasibly paint on all the large markings and avoid the decals entirely...


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

zenomorp said:


> Thanks Opus! And Proper2, I know the kit instructions call for them to be darker, but in all the pictures I've ever seen of the studio model or otherwise, they've always been the same color as the hull, but I of course could be wrong.


Hmm, I've always seen them to be considerably darker, even the re-mastered version.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Proper2 said:


> Hmm, I've always seen them to be considerably darker, even the re-mastered version.


Looks like I have some re-painting to do then...


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Lots of good pics here...

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=8672


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I made the comment of the vents being the same color as the hull because I thought it was mentioned in another forum. I am going on memory here and could very much be wrong. I know the rings behind the Bussard domes were mentioned to be hull color, but were slightly weathered to make them stand out more. I was wondering if this was the same with the impulse vents. Unfortunately the pictures of the model in the Smithsonian cannot be reliable since this could have been repainted since the refurbishment. Just some visual curiosity I noticed.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

zenomorp said:


> Lots of good pics here...
> 
> http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=8672


Man, that thing looks like a Great White (Carcharodon Carcharias)!


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Proper2 said:


> Man, that thing looks like a Great White (Carcharodon Carcharias)!


a Whaaaaat


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

jaws62666 said:


> a Whaaaaat


JAWS!! As in, "You're gonna need a bigger boat..."


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Proper2 said:


> JAWS!! As in, "You're gonna need a bigger boat..."


Whats this bite radius crap


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

"....this is not the time and place to perform some type of half-ass autopsy on a starship!"


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Proper2 said:


> "You're gonna need a bigger boat..."


That line was ad-libbed by Roy btw...


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

you know how to tell the size of the starship. You look from the neck down to the end of the nacelles


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

jaws62666 said:


> you know how to tell the size of the starship. You look from the neck down to the end of the nacelles


:lol:











"Y'all know me. Know how I earn a livin'. I'll build this bird for you, but it ain't gonna be easy. Bad ship. Not like going down the hobby store buyin' snap-kits and paint-by-number sets. This 1:350, test you sanity. Little bridge, little hangar bay, an' down you go. And we gotta do it quick, that'll bring back your display, put your mind on a restin' basis. But it's not gonna be pleasant. I value my nerves a lot more than three thousand bucks, chief. I'll build 'er for three, but I'll paint 'er, and wheather 'er, for ten. But you've gotta make up your minds. If you want to stay sane, then ante up. If you want to play it cheap, be miserable the whole winter. I don't want no volunteers, I don't want no mates, there's just too many captains on this island. $10,000 for me by myself. For that you get the saucer, the fantail, the whole damn thing."


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Proper2 said:


> :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats awesome:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

jaws62666 said:


> Thats awesome:thumbsup:


Nowthat's just... HILARIOUS!


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)




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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Rofl!!!!


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

impulse vents ?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

zenomorp said:


>


Exactly! :thumbsup:


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

That rant is frack'n awesome.


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## weird (Jul 24, 2007)

Hi Zenomorp.

I just noticed that you put 5 extra LED strips in the primary hull. If you connected them all to the saucer pcb, I wonder if the extra power draw is causing your flashers not to work. I've noticed as I attached more lights, the worse my nacelle bussards lights get.

For example, when I first tested the bussard motors and lights, they all worked fine. Powered right up. The flashing lights of the bussard started flashing right away. But as I added the extra nacelle lights, and tested them together with the secondary hull lights, the flashing LED's in the bussard would not immediately start flashing. They would need some time before they would start flashing. I believe others have mentioned that their bussard flashers required time to warm up, before working. At first, this started happening to just the port nacelle. Once I added the dorsal and primary hull lights, the starboard nacelle started to require the "warm up". I also noticed that the bussard lighting is a little dimmer as I connected the rest of the lights together. It seems like there is not enough power to handle all the lights and motors.

I can't say for sure that the extra lights you have in the saucer is causing the flashers to not work. If I had extra LED strips I would test it, as my saucer is still open, but unfortunately I'm out.

I don't know if others have experienced what I've noticed during my build. I thought I would share my experience, in case others have noticed this also.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

It's a good idea, but it's not the case for me. The flashers didn't work even when I had nothing installed on the PCB except for the incoming power and the flasher connection. Something took out the timer chips on both PCBs. I don't think it was anything I did as I never hooked up anything in the wrong position or crossed any live wires. I think I just got some bad timers. They are definitely shorted because I noticed that when they are in the energized circuit, the diode next to each timer gets so hot you can smell it burning. When I remove the timer, everything is fine. 

Don't know what happened, but something shorted the timers and it's not a problem with a draw down in current/voltage. Thanks for your analysis. It will most assuredly help others.


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## weird (Jul 24, 2007)

Hopefully, if you plan to build another one, you will have a light kit that isn't defective.

The build that you have now, looks awesome. Even without the flashers.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

weird said:


> Hopefully, if you plan to build another one, you will have a light kit that isn't defective.
> 
> The build that you have now, looks awesome. Even without the flashers.


Thanks! I'm really disgusted at how bad the seams turned out on my build. I normally assemble the entire kit as much as possible, mask the windows, fill and sand all the seams and then paint. On this build, I couldn't find any window masks, so I did the best I could. I had been away from the hobby for so long, I forgot to peruse Culttvman and that was my fault. 

Yes, I am going to give this one another try. This time I'll do the hangar bay and the bridge. Maybe wire up my own lighting kit and save the +/-$150. I also have the problem of the "silvering" decals, so a new build is demanded. Stay tuned. I am actually thinking of selling this one to finance the new one, but the last kit I sold didn't survive shipping, so it will be a local sale only.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Hot diode? Maybe it's (the diode) installed backwards?

If it's not already fried, check its polarity marking against any board marking or other indication of current flow.

Just a shot in the dark. Obviously something is amiss.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

TrekFX said:


> Hot diode? Maybe it's (the diode) installed backwards?
> 
> If it's not already fried, check its polarity marking against any board marking or other indication of current flow.
> 
> Just a shot in the dark. Obviously something is amiss.


I did, and even replaced them. I used new zener diodes and new 1n4004 diodes. They heated up as well. The problem is the timer chip either shorted on it's own, or something I did caused it to short, but as I said, I don't thing I did anything to cause it.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

It must be adding all the lights to the boards. My bussards worked fine when tested alone. It is finished now and it takes 5 minutes for all the lights to flash. My saucer flashers and aft flashers all work well though. Here are pics and video of mine.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=379271&page=6


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

jaws62666 said:


> It must be adding all the lights to the boards. My bussards worked fine when tested alone. It is finished now and it takes 5 minutes for all the lights to flash. My saucer flashers and aft flashers all work well though. Here are pics and video of mine.
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=379271&page=6


That doesn't make sense. I actually had 2 light strips left over. One would assume that they tested the kit for amp/voltage draw with everything included in the kit during quality control before offering it for sale. When I turn my build on, the bussards run at 100% speed immediately and require no time to get up to speed. All the lights come on immediately as well. No issues there.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> That doesn't make sense. I actually had 2 light strips left over. One would assume that they tested the kit for amp/voltage draw with everything included in the kit during quality control before offering it for sale. When I turn my build on, the bussards run at 100% speed immediately and require no time to get up to speed. All the lights come on immediately as well. No issues there.


Ya I dont get it either. When i heard everyone else talking about the warm up time , I tested mine to make sure. They worked fine when tested by themselves. Once I hasd everything sealed up and turned on , I got the hesitation with the flashers in the bussards. The motors and solid lights are at speed right away, but the flashers need those 5 or so minutes to get fully lit. Starts with 2 working and moves up to all 5. Only fault I find with the kit. Otherwise i am very pleased with how it came out, and am grateful to Round 2 for bringing this to us.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

jaws62666 said:


> Ya I dont get it either. When i heard everyone else talking about the warm up time , I tested mine to make sure. They worked fine when tested by themselves. Once I hasd everything sealed up and turned on , I got the hesitation with the flashers in the bussards. The motors and solid lights are at speed right away, but the flashers need those 5 or so minutes to get fully lit. Starts with 2 working and moves up to all 5. Only fault I find with the kit. Otherwise i am very pleased with how it came out, and am grateful to Round 2 for bringing this to us.


I think on my next build, I'll just make my own lighting kit and save time/headaches. I will also get the window masks that will allow me to do some better seam work.


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## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

I'm glad I'm not the only one having trouble with the LED lights. When I pluged in all the lights in to check for light leaks everything worked fine. Two days later I started to have lighting issues. Although I didn't loose my flashers on the saucer or secondary hull, I did loose the bridge lights (O) and the single light (L) directly below.

I wonder if PL/Round2 would do a one for one exchange for defective lighting parts since my kit is not sealed yet?


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