# Metalizer info/help



## Duck (Aug 22, 2004)

I've only used metalizer types paints a few times. However I always seem to have the paint flake off or rub off when finishing the model. When I clear coat after painiting, it distorts the paint making it look sparkly.

Any and all tips are welcome.

duck


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## Jinja (Mar 26, 2010)

*Hi*

I've yet to use Alclads as such, but have read many writeups of builds where it was used. I hear it's very fragile and thrus difficult to apply masking tape over... it also takes longer to cure.... 


dunno on the sparkliness after a clear coat.


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Duck,

I use two types of metal paint - Testors Metalizer and AlClad II.................both with great results.

I use the Metalizer for smaller detail painting that won't be handled much................this helps me avoid clear coating it and spoiling the actual "metal" appearance.............it doesn't come out "sparkly", but just too shiny with the sealer.

I use AlClad II for overall finishes - it is a *great* metal paint - it doesn't require sealing or buffing, but is best applied over a primer. You can safely handle AlClad II just like regular paint once it dries.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

IMHO Testors Metalizer is crap. It is soft and just rubs off if you don't seal it. If you do seal it with their clear spray, it just turns dull grey and looks like any other silver paint. 

Alclad is very easy to use and durable. You can mask over most shades quite easily, as well as paint over it. It is hard to paint over the Testors stuff, so if you do a plane with an OD anti glare panel, you have to paint the panel first and mask it off.

Talon has some nice metallizer type acrylics that are quite good, durable, and easy to use.

SNJ has a good metal finish system as well. It might seem complex but it is easy and works well.


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Oh, I don't know about the Metalizer being "_crap_". It works very well as long as you're aware of its limitations. As I said before, I use it for small detail areas that will not need to be handled..............and I don't seal it. 

AlClad II blows it out of the water as far as versatility and ease of use, though.


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## Duck (Aug 22, 2004)

Thanks for the info. Looks like I will be investing into some Alclad.


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Duck said:


> Thanks for the info. Looks like I will be investing into some Alclad.


You won't be disappointed. Spray it at around 15 PSI. It also works best applied over primer. I've used the Tamiya grey and white primers without a hitch.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Don't bother with Alclad. I've used the metallizer for over fifteen years without a problem other than rubbing shiny spots when rubbed against something sharp like a fingernail. The sealer I've never used because it dulls the painted surface from what I read in the brochure when this stuff first hit the market. I painted a P51-B turtleneck with the aluminum non-buffable Metallizer with great results. This stuff is also great for dry brushing weathering effects if you want to simulate paint wear on metal. Alclad is too shiny for WWII planes if that's what you're looking to replicate. The aluminum I use is just right for that machined, but not brightly polished look. It's the "bright aluminum" the most reflectance you can get without having a mirror finish. I never really touch it, so I don't have to worry about paint damage.

Since this is a Metallizer help thread - not an Alclad thread, here're a few points to remember:

There are different hues of Metallizer. Each one has a different reflectance. Each one also has a different durability. If you have non-buffable like mine, you'll have to seal it to keep it from getting these spots in it when touched against something else. I just mix it with different colours to make whatever tone I want, or need. 

The metal shininess, or sparkliness you're getting in your clearcoat paint is from the airbrush being only partly clean, or when sprayed, the air moving across the paint surface is pushing tiny paint particles from the paint on the model along with it into the surrounding fresh clear coat. I can't tell for sure, unless I can see what you're talking about, but from the sound of what you've described here -I think this is what you're experiencing. Your best bet is to spray it off with air - about 20 PSI before painting with the Metallizer sealer. This will be enough to dislodge any loose paint particulates on the model. 

I guess it's how you use what you have. I've mixed mine with paint thinner, then airbrushed it, then let it air dry before assembly. I haven't had a problem with it, except dirt/filth in the air when painting outside and having to remove it with mineral spirits, then repaint. With a little rescribing and repainting, mine came out flawlessly. The only thing I hate about it is the fit along the wing to body line wasn't the greatest - it was an Airfix kit from '77. 

~ The God of war


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Dyonisis said:


> Since this is a Metallizer help thread - not an Alclad thread


Thank you to truly defining this thread.............


The OP states "metalizer *types* paints".................so I'll take that to include all metal paints.......................Alclad included.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Ace Airspeed said:


> Thank you to truly defining this thread.............
> 
> 
> The OP states "metalizer *types* paints".................so I'll take that to include all metal paints.......................Alclad included.


First off - READ THE THREAD TITLE. Second: METALLIZER - NOT Alclad. You posted the answer to the question all in one line in your post. Third: Don't come in here in the short time you've been a member starting pissing matches by taking things personally! Read the Terms Of Service posted for ALL members, not just those that feel like reading it. You're a newbie here - like it, or not. If you can't comply with the rules - leave! There are a lot more knowledgeable people here than you think, so chill out - stop thinking you're being attacked and maybe you'll actually learn something from someone who's been doing this for over thirty years straight.

~ The God of war


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## Duck (Aug 22, 2004)

I wasn't trying to start a war. I should have clarified the posting to include all metallic paints. 

I still am having issue with Testor metalizer rubbing off when handling parts painted with this paint. This is primarily the non-buffing paints.


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Dyonisis said:


> First off - READ THE THREAD TITLE. Second: METALLIZER - NOT Alclad. You posted the answer to the question all in one line in your post. Third: Don't come in here in the short time you've been a member starting pissing matches by taking things personally! Read the Terms Of Service posted for ALL members, not just those that feel like reading it. You're a newbie here - like it, or not. If you can't comply with the rules - leave! There are a lot more knowledgeable people here than you think, so chill out - stop thinking you're being attacked and maybe you'll actually learn something from someone who's been doing this for over thirty years straight.
> 
> ~ The God of war


I'll say this before I move on and completely ignore you. You're definitely a bit full of yourself, aren't you? I guess in your mind post count and time on board determines one's eligibility to discuss things.......LMAO! What post count would you consider to be the threshold for open discussion? I guess any disagreements with your point of view are considered "pissing matches"? 

I have no doubt at all about the skill and knowledge that is represented on this forum - and I do learn lots of things here. I have also been building models for much longer than you think - but I build for fun, not to lord over the nOObs and impose my greatness and sage wisdom on members here like you do, Dyonisis. I'm not the one that needs to chill out - you are. 

See you around.........................:wave:


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## Ace Airspeed (May 16, 2010)

Duck said:


> I wasn't trying to start a war. I should have clarified the posting to include all metallic paints.
> 
> I still am having issue with Testor metalizer rubbing off when handling parts painted with this paint. This is primarily the non-buffing paints.


It's the nature of the beast, Duck. The MM Metalizers will rub off if handled more than extremely lightly unless they're sealed. 

This is why I use Alclad II for overall finishes and larger assemblies. Alclad can be safely handled. It also needs to be applied over a primer - and that gives you a chance to proof your seams.


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