# Kitbashing 1/350 Seaview?



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

*Converting 1/350 Seaview?*

Has anyone on this forum ever attempted to convert the 1/350 scale Moebius Seaview into the 8-window movie version? If so, how well did it turn out?
I remember several years ago, member "Subtoair" converted a 1/129 scale Flying Sub version into the movie version, and did a killer job of it, too!
However, I'm thinking of the 1/350 version, because the old Aurora/Polar Lights movie Seaview just doesn't quite measure up to the Moebius FS version when placed side-by-side for comparison. 
Before I take a crack at it, I just wanted to know if anybody else tried this yet.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Well, it took me a couple of weeks, and it came out rather nicely. The easy part was sanding down the sonar domes on the sides as well as the Flying Sub bay doors and belly lamps. I then opened up the viewport bay by sawing straight down to the upward curve of the manta ray fins and forward lamp, and saw cutting across to the existing divider. 
I sanded down the ridge from the top deck point to the forward lamp, and then had the joys of scratch building the viewport frames and belly "rib" in the manta ray belly using tree sprue from the Polar Lights Lost in Space Robot kit.
I drilled two holes for the new locations of the belly lamps and inserted rounded pins that I had in my "scrap parts" box, but really don't remember what kit those were salvaged from.
The top sonar dome I fashioned from half of the "clothes pin" joist from the land of The Giants Snake diorama (I used a real safety pin for that build). 
I then cut clear plastic sheet to size for the 8 view port windows, and then polished the whole sub off with Tamiya "RAF Ocean Gray #2" rattle can spray with a Tamiya "USAF Light Grey" underside. I penned in the sail "darklights" with a Sharpie, and sealed the whole shebang off with a layer of Tamiya "semi-matt clear coat".


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

What, no photos?


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## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

Have any of the aftermarket guys considered doing an 8-window conversion kit for the Moebius 1/350 _Seaview_? My scratchbuilding skills aren't quite up to the task, but I'd be willing to pay a fair price for a _Seaview_ "nose job" kit.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If a conversion kit wasn't issued, what, 7 (?) years ago when the kit first came out, it isn't going to come out now.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

djnick66 said:


> If a conversion kit wasn't issued, what, 7 (?) years ago when the kit first came out, it isn't going to come out now.


Is it possible that the general thinking may have been "Moebius is sure to issue a new tool 1/350 8-window Seaview any time now, why bother with a conversion kit" ?

(note: I would like that happen, a new tool 8-window in 1/350)

So maybe since that seems unlikely to happen now, maybe a conversion nose is a fresh idea to investigate?


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

The 8-Window 1:350 kit does seem to be a big hole in Moebius's offerings- I had expected one to be released some time ago.
Moebius does have limited resources towards product development, they might have set that edition aside to concentrate on the hotter subjects such as the Galactica kits. 
To be honest, the 8-Window Seaview is the more obscure edition- it was in a film and in stock shots, but the 4-Window/F-S edition is what most people associate with the TV show. When I was watching the show way back when I didn't even know about the movie- it was not until the age of VHS I had a chance to see it.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I'm actually doing this conversion right now. It's going well, but the nose & forward manta fins have to be completely redone from scratch as the four window is *completely* different and cannot be simply adapted or altered to do it. I'll post a few pictures of the final result next week...


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## scotpens (Sep 6, 2003)

Richard Baker said:


> . . . To be honest, the 8-Window Seaview is the more obscure edition- it was in a film and in stock shots, but the 4-Window/F-S edition is what most people associate with the TV show.


But the 8-window movie version is way prettier.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

scotpens said:


> But the 8-window movie version is way prettier.


I heard THAT!:grin2:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I think is is prettier as well, and I like the Gemini 12 too.
They just are rare early versions of the well known classics and thus not as marketable


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Richard Baker said:


> I think is is prettier as well, and I like the Gemini 12 too.
> They just are rare early versions of the well known classics and thus not as marketable


Seaview had a movie and a whole first season on TV as that version though! The Gemini 12 was just in some FX shots in the pilot...


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Seaview had a movie and a whole first season on TV as that version though! The Gemini 12 was just in some FX shots in the pilot...


And in the context of the original plan, the 'Space Family Robinson' concept, that's ALL the use it would have gotten, as the Gemini 12 was as disposable as the spaceship in 'Planet of the Apes'. Only used to establish how the Robinsons got to be in the situation they were in. 

It's probably debatable how long they would have kept the 'crash site' set, as it seems (from the evidence in the pilot) the plan was for the family to abandon the crash and set up home elsewhere. A metaphorical 'build a treehouse' thing. 

But of course none of that happened.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> Seaview had a movie and a whole first season on TV as that version though! The Gemini 12 was just in some FX shots in the pilot...


My point is that when most people think of Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea they remember the Seaview with the Flying Sub in it- that is the most famous incarnation. I wonder if what Moebius's sales figures show for the respective 1:128 kits? Having no 1:350 8 Window kit is a big hole in the inventory, there must be a reason they have not released one yet.
The only reason I mentioned the Gemini 12 is that it, like the 8 Window Seaview, was an early version of a vehicle which after some changes became iconic. It is not a matter of screen time, but just a design progression. The Gemini 12, with it's larger front viewport and fusion core, is preferred by some over the Jupiter 2 version. It still shows up in some SFX shots later on, easy to spot from the underside. 
If Moebius ever releases a 1:350 8 Window I will definitely get one- I like the flow of the front much better.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Richard Baker said:


> If Moebius ever releases a 1:350 8 Window I will definitely get one- I like the flow of the front much better.


I'll be too late for me; I'm makin' my own _now_. But who knows- I might get one later if it's released anyway just to have real windows with stuff behind them.

Edit to add: my conversion is going pretty well. I'm at the pre-paint stage. This is the challenge!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Where I am now:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

That's turning out nice! To my uneducated eye I think you nailed the 8-window nose contour.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I just adjusted it again today. I've been carving & sanding it down all week. I think I finally got to the right shapes... now to get rid of the seams. This waiting for primer to dry is killin' me!
This is the most complicated sculpting I've ever done. It make the Armageddon shuttle I did seem not-so-hard by comparison.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)




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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chris,

A bold decision to convert to the 8 window version. At this point have you done anything to the nose in addition to filling in the windows? It looks like you've done some sanding on the sides of the "dome" to flatten it a bit...

Tom



Chrisisall said:


> Where I am now:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I have never in my life ever seen a white Seaview kit - whether it be an original Aurora, Monogram or Polar Lights reissue. All I have seen were always molded in black. That must be quite rare.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Trek Ace said:


> I have never in my life ever seen a white Seaview kit - whether it be an original Aurora, Monogram or Polar Lights reissue. All I have seen were always molded in black. That must be quite rare.


White primer, maybe?


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

That would explain it. I must have been fooled by what looked like other white molded parts laying in the box. I couldn't remember if Polar Lights would have issued any "chase kit" versions of the Seaview like those of some their other kits from a decade or so back. The white over spray inside the box should have also been a clue - if I were looking at something other than just the model and parts. 

Anyway, you've done a great job re-contouring the nose. It looks much better than the original shape.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Chris,
> 
> A bold decision to convert to the 8 window version. At this point have you done anything to the nose in addition to filling in the windows? It looks like you've done some sanding on the sides of the "dome" to flatten it a bit...


Tom, I chopped off the entire front of nose section & jettisoned the lower front piece- the shape, length & manta fin height were ALL wrong for the eight window... this nose is almost entirely from scratch. *************'s thread & examining the first season on DVD were absolutely necessary for me to understand the actual look of the ship.

Also, it's white primer, but I _do_ have a polar lights Seaview that came in white plastic.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Tom, I chopped off the entire front of nose section & jettisoned the lower front piece- the shape, length & manta fin height were ALL wrong for the eight window... this nose is almost entirely from scratch.


Chris,

That is AMAZING work! What material did you use to sculpt the new nose?

Tom


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Chris,
> 
> What material did you use to sculpt the new nose?


Loctite (sp?) epoxy putty. I get it at Walmart. You gotta shape it fast, and in stages because it starts getting hard after 3 minutes, and it sands well after just a half hour. But it's pretty solid stuff. I made most of the body of my Armageddon shuttle out of it. Only drawback is that it and model plastic sand differently, so seams can be an issue, but a workable one. I just took care of the seams today on the Seaview, one last light sanding tomorrow after the primer is dry (AGAIN!!!!!) should be the last bit before painting. I still have to construct the nose light & cage... that won't be the hardest part though.

Oh, and the funny part is that the nose of this model became quite noticeably heavier than the back end fast, so I had to fill the rear end with the stuff to balance it out. My Son said this one has a good heft to it, not like the almost weightless PL Seaview I did a couple of months ago (God that thing looks like trash to me now...).


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Loctite (sp?) epoxy putty. I get it at Walmart. You gotta shape it fast, and in stages because it starts getting hard after 3 minutes, and it sands well after just a half hour. But it's pretty solid stuff. I made most of the body of my Armageddon shuttle out of it. Only drawback is that it and model plastic sand differently, so seams can be an issue, but a workable one. I just took care of the seams today on the Seaview, one last light sanding tomorrow after the primer is dry (AGAIN!!!!!) should be the last bit before painting.


Thanks for the info.

So you just sculpt the basic shape with the putty and when it hardens you sand it down to the exact shape you want? Is the nose hollow?

Tom


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> So you just sculpt the basic shape with the putty and when it hardens you sand it down to the exact shape you want? Is the nose hollow?


Yes, and, a bit.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trek Ace said:


> Anyway, you've done a great job re-contouring the nose. It looks much better than the original shape.


Actually, thanks to Mr. Lubliner and his crazy informative thread, I think it's now more accurate than the big Moebius eight window model, shape-wise!:surprise:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Thank you for reviving this thread; I did my conversion over the Christmas Holidays and am pleased with the results I got, but your work promises to be far better than my attempt was. Keep up the great work, Chris!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> I did my conversion over the Christmas Holidays and am pleased with the results I got


Oh, pictures PLEASE!


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Believe it or not, I don't own either a camera or even a cell phone. But the next time I have a visitor come over, he or she will take a photo or two and I'll download it onto this message board. Heck, I'm still using a dial-up computer modem!
Until then, suffice it to say that it looks like a 12" version of the OOB 1/129 scale Moebius Movie Seaview.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> suffice it to say that it looks like a 12" version of the OOB 1/129 scale Moebius Movie Seaview.


Sounds like a win then!

Here's mine, waiting for a final light sanding before painting (did I mention I hate waiting for primer to dry???):


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Impressive. And I can relate to how you feel about waiting for primer to dry; not unlike waiting for the Mobius Proteus to arrive!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Yes... the _small_ sub... heh heh


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> I think it's now more accurate than the big Moebius eight window model, shape-wise!:surprise:


The big 8-window Moebius "dome" that sits atop the mantas retains the elliptical shape (as viewed front on) on the sides unlike the miniatures which have the almost straight line shape. You definitely have a better representation of this.

Now that you've done your studying, what do you think of the mantas on this version?

Tom


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> what do you think of the mantas on this version?


Not bad at all.:grin2:


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Not bad at all.:grin2:


IMO, at least from the head-on slightly above angle in your photo, your mantas look very much like the 1/128th 8-window. Your mantas may have just a bit more curve at the tips. I *think* GK was shooting more for the look of the 8' than 17'.

Any chance of posting some more nose photos from other angles?

Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

It's looking really great, Chris, but I'm a little concerned about the very tip of the bow. I'm not sure if you've got it built out too far or not. 

See, this seems to be one of the areas subject to interpretation, depending on which effects miniature you're using for your baseline. Looking at pics in 'Seaview Soundings', the 4 foot (built up from the original 12 window model) seemed to have very little 'lip' at the manta/hull bow blending. OTOH the 8 1/2 foot miniature has just a little more obvious 'lip' at the front. Yet if you reduce the 'lip' area too much suddenly you're approaching that 'beluga bulge' look that one of the miniatures had (I think it was a 2-footer).

The primer coat glares enough that I can't get a good handle on the very front of the bow. At this point, to my eyes, the blending there looks more 4-window than 8-window, if that makes any sense.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

A couple of pix before & during...

















Steve, like I told Paul L. I'm not going off a single version, I'm just getting the look right for myself. I'm taking cues from all around the place. So yeah, this is NOT a scale model, heh heh.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

It's still looking good. A very impressive 'backdating' conversion. My suggestion is still, be mindful that the manta fins were added AFTER the 4 foot model (with the 12 windows) was essentially finished (either as filming miniature or study model) and that's part of the complex and optical illusion inducing magic of the sub.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> It's still looking good. A very impressive 'backdating' conversion.


Thanks! It's basically ready for paint now. May tweak it some tomorrow, but not by a lot...


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I can't wait to see how you paint the viewports and the sail dark lights. Looking good!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> I can't wait to see how you paint the viewports and the sail dark lights. Looking good!


Just now tweaked the manta fins... I have a plan for painting the viewports- hope it works.:grin2:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Final tweaks done, it's ready!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, it's _NOT_ ready. More tweaks. The nose light hole was not centered on the bow. 
As usual, a quick build has turned into a small obsession. Oh well, when I'm finished I will be happy though...









... and I still have about 10 episodes to go on the first season of the DVDs!!! (Havin' fun here)


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Has Capt. Crane turned into a werewolf yet?


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

IMHO, season 1 and the first half of season 2 are the best, with about a dozen for the rest of the series well worth repeat watching. just out of curiosity, are you building 2 of these, or is the other one to be an "accurized" Aurora version?


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## FoxTrot1 (Sep 28, 2016)

Hi All!

FoxTrot here. Its been ages (years, in fact) since I last posted, and I have not been able to re-activate my Hobbytalk user account (despite messaging Hobbytalk several times). Anyway, I thought one solution was to create a new account. Thus, FoxTrot = FoxTrot1 on this bulletin board.

Chrisisall, that's one beautiful and impressive mod! - can't wait to see the final result! Agreed, an 8-window 1/350th Seaview seems to be a gap in Moebius's line up. And YES, the 8-window movie version is WAY WAY prettier than the TV version IMHO. OK, granted the FS is a great addition to the TV sub, but I can't see why they simply couldn't add the FS to the 8-window version anyway. Sure, the internal geometry and dimensions would be utterly nonsensical with the 8-window sub, but it's not as if 'nonsense' ever bothered Irwin Allen before (e.g... the space pod and J2). In my eyes, the 8-window sub has incredibly beautiful lines and proportional aesthetics. In comparison, the TV season 2 Seaview just seems wrong to me. It has an awful central seam running down to a horrid pointy nose, plus 4x "Jupiter 2" disproportionate windows. Basically it shrinks the whole scale of the Seaview by about a factor of 2 (yuk....!).

I only have poor excuses, but I actually missed out on buying the 1/128th Moebius 8-window Seaview whilst it was in production. Subsequently, during the last 2 weeks I tried to buy one from CultTVman and Moebius - and the 8-window sub is just no longer available. But then I really lucked out, I found one available from a Canadian seller on Ebay, at a bit of a $ premium, but well within reason given the 1/128th movie kit is no longer produced. Its currently in the (overseas) post to me now...! (fingers crossed!).

During my enquiries with Steve at CultTVman, he said the 1/128th scale 8-window model 'did not sell as well' as the TV version. Also, Moebius said that whilst it's possible the 8-window model could be re-issued years down the road, there was no guarantee of a re-issue given how they gauge the economics/demand for the movie version (and their minimum run is 1,000 kits). Having said that, any residual kits and re-stocks of the 8-window model seem to be snapped up like hotcakes...!

Cheers
FoxTrot
(Melbourne, Australia)


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> just out of curiosity, are you building 2 of these, or is the other one to be an "accurized" Aurora version?


I was starting to do an accurized Aurora/PL version until I realized it was never going to look as good as a Moebius TV Seaview converted. So the other one you see in pictures is my paint-tester.:laugh:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oops. It was pointed out to me that the mantas were a little too thick.... more tweaking!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

FoxTrot1 said:


> Chrisisall, that's one beautiful and impressive mod! - can't wait to see the final result!


The final result will tell if it's been worth all this 'tweaking'!:laugh:
Curious, are you going to attempt this conversion, or go with the model as the TV/FS version it is?


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## FoxTrot1 (Sep 28, 2016)

Chrisisall said:


> The final result will tell if it's been worth all this 'tweaking'!:laugh:
> Curious, are you going to attempt this conversion, or go with the model as the TV/FS version it is?


Hi Chrisisall
I don't have the 1/350th TV/FS Seaview, although it does look like quite a cute model. I was able to purchase the 1/128th Movie Seaview from eBay (a week ago), which should arrive in 1-2 weeks, safely I hope. Sorry if you've already mentioned it previously, but how do you intend to model the 8 windows?
Cheers
Fox


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Welcome back Foxtrot!- a LOT of people had to restart new accounts because of difficulties with the new security and site management.

This 8-Window mod is really looking great- be glad you are dealing with all these final tweaks now instead of finding them after a killer paint job!


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chris, do you intend to scribe in or paint the 'moving surface interface' line on the tips of the manta fins? There was, at least on some of the miniatures, an attempt to have the tips be dive planes even if they were never functional.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

FoxTrot1 said:


> Sorry if you've already mentioned it previously, but how do you intend to model the 8 windows?
> Cheers


Oh I had great plans for them, I was gonna cut 'em out & lay in curved plastic & s**t but the more I ran simulations in my head the more problems I found. I was never meaning this to be longer than a few weeks... so... *sigh* I'll just paint 'em on.:crying:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Chris, do you intend to scribe in or paint the 'moving surface interface' line on the tips of the manta fins? There was, at least on some of the miniatures, an attempt to have the tips be dive planes even if they were never functional.


No, I was really never even aware of them except for that one close up in the movie where the minisub got waxed. I suck at scribing curves anyway.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> Oh I had great plans for them, I was gonna cut 'em out & lay in curved plastic & s**t but the more I ran simulations in my head the more problems I found. I was never meaning this to be longer than a few weeks... so... *sigh* I'll just paint 'em on.:crying:


Considering if this was a real submarine turbulence should be kept at a minimum, the 'real' windows would be flush to the hull, at 1:350 scale even the separation lines would be invisible.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Richard Baker said:


> Considering if this was a real submarine turbulence should be kept at a minimum, the 'real' windows would be flush to the hull, at 1:350 scale even the separation lines would be invisible.


Precisely! 

Anyway, first paint is on:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> No, I was really never even aware of them except for that one close up in the movie where the minisub got waxed. I suck at scribing curves anyway.


Well, you don't have to scribe them altho there are various tools you could use to run the blade along, brass french curves and the like. You could also make a paper template and just paint the line, or even use a decal. 

Of course, again, given the scale maybe the line shouldn't be noticeable. 

Have I mentioned it's looking very nice, your backdate conversion? You've done a fantastic job.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Of course, again, given the scale maybe the line shouldn't be noticeable.


That's what I was thinking. At 128 I'd be obligated to include it.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

You could just draw it on with a fine tip hard lead pencil. The Manta 'Diving Planes' is one feature which I never remembered seeing in the show but makes a lot of sense- just imaging how quickly the Seaview could change attitude with those. I just like mechanical details like that in designs- it just gives the sculpted shapes a real world mechanical connection...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The headlight will be an LED I've had laying around (perfect size-YES!!!) and I plan to make the cage out of wire & glue it to the sides... simple, but hopefully effective.

Edit: last night I was preparing the nose hole for the LED & I used a bit too much force with the tool & broke off a thin bit *FRACK*! So I had so putty it up, sand it down & prime it again. This morning I painted the white underside again. I hope it clears up outside so I can paint the hull later...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Once again in my rush to get this project finished I've made errors. The windows WILL be complicated after all. I edited my above post to delete the misstatements. 
More research is required on my part, clearly. Must study Paul's thread some more...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I thinned the mantas *again* and this is my last tweak (until my _next _last tweak, ha ha)........


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Looking super. 

What do you intend for the big lights on the underside of the manta fins? If you go drilling into them to inset something I suspect you're just cruising for a headache and trouble...

So that calls for something to 'plant on', some kind of small clearish frosted dome. Like maybe the tip of a LED. Something like that.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The searchlight casing is kicking my a*s. I bought tiny O-rings from the hardware store, but it turns out they're too thick & would make it look toyish. So today I got steel wire which means *EEK!* soldering- not my finest skill. But I'll muddle through & sand the rough spots. Then I'll make the flat ring on the hull out of epoxy putty & sink in the 'cage' before it hardens, remove the cage and sand/shape then glue the cage in and paint. THEN put the LED in as the last step.

Man, this has become way more involved than I first thought, but isn't that always the way?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Looking super.
> 
> What do you intend for the big lights on the underside of the manta fins? If you go drilling into them to inset something I suspect you're just cruising for a headache and trouble...
> 
> So that calls for something to 'plant on', some kind of small clearish frosted dome. Like maybe the tip of a LED. Something like that.


Thanks Steve. Yeah, I have frosty bits of dome-y stuff to add on. I'll drill a tiny bit to anchor them.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks Steve. Yeah, I have frosty bits of dome-y stuff to add on. I'll drill a tiny bit to anchor them.


I'm gonna make a suggestion. You're going to hate me. 

Don't drill. Just glue them on, maybe then go around them with a super fine light gray marker to create the illusion of a mounting. 

Given everything you've gone thru with those manta fins and the bow light, I just know that harmonic vibration from the drilling, even just a tiny divot, is going to crack something. 

Not to mention if you drill the wrong spot by mistake!

Your project, your headache if I'm right. 

Speaking of the bow light, you need fine wire. What about a piece of telephone wire, or a single strand of wire from, say, some junk headphones? Just untwist one of the paired wires and cut off a strand. Dollar Tree has many crappy headphones for a buck.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Model Railroad part. MV Lenses. Perfect for all the reflector/lens applications.

MV Products (MV Lenses)


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Given everything you've gone thru with those manta fins and the bow light, I just know that harmonic vibration from the drilling, even just a tiny divot, is going to crack something.


Oh no- I drill with an Exacto knife. Slow & easy. Besides, I can always fix whatever I mess up.
Usually.

So I'm home from work now & beat. And I work all day tomorrow... might not be beat tomorrow though. Point is that I have this Thursday off, and I need that to do the bulk of the rest of the work. I don't want to rush it when fatigued. I need full concentration, especially when soldering. With any luck, this baby will be done by Saturday!!
:woohoo:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Oh no- I drill with an Exacto knife. Slow & easy. Besides, I can always fix whatever I mess up.
> Usually.
> 
> So I'm home from work now & beat. And I work all day tomorrow... might not be beat tomorrow though. Point is that I have this Thursday off, and I need that to do the bulk of the rest of the work. I don't want to rush it when fatigued. I need full concentration, especially when soldering. With any luck, this baby will be done by Saturday!!
> :woohoo:


There ya go. Should be cool. Have you licked the window conundrum yet?

It's not too late to find a sheet of solid black decal and cut out the windows and use that. 

Or actually, suddenly struck me. Do you ever print your own decals? That may be a solution as well. Draw them out, print it on regular paper to see how it looks on the nose, tweak it, then print on decal paper and off you go.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Have you licked the window conundrum yet?
> 
> It's not too late to find a sheet of solid black decal and cut out the windows and use that.
> 
> Or actually, suddenly struck me. Do you ever print your own decals? That may be a solution as well. Draw them out, print it on regular paper to see how it looks on the nose, tweak it, then print on decal paper and off you go.


I am so computer illiterate that I wouldn't even attempt such a thing.:grin2:
I'm basically painting indistinct shadows on the nose in white & light greys, then blocking off (with carefully cut stickers) the windows and painting the hull. Then the stickers get removed, and I'll see if I like the effect or not. 
When I was making my Armageddon shuttle I finished it, then tore the whole nose & window section apart to re-do it. It's not done until I *like* it.>


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Sudden inspiration strikes. Another tweak. 
My Son: "Dad, are you addicted to sanding?"
Me: "No, I'm just discovering Seaview in this."
Still not done.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

It took some time, but I finally bent the steel wire into more or less perfect curves and did practice soldering to brush up on my sadly lacking skill in this area, then built a casing to steady the pieces and soldered them. The sanding will follow on the rough patches, but I'm done for today. This sounds simpler than it was (for ME, anyway). 

















I also worked on the hull a bit, but nothing amazing.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Is that a rubber band holding the parts together for soldering?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Is that a rubber band holding the parts together for soldering?


No, a thin strip of masking tape I cut. 
You have no idea how many different pens & tools I wrapped that wire around to get the right size...:freak:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I was cleaning the cage up & it fell apart. I re-soldered it and started cleaning it up again today & it came apart again. So I'm done with the steel wire. This is felgercarb. I'm proceeding on this project by winging it. Or waggling it. Whatever. My next post will be the finished model- in a few days.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> Okay, I was cleaning the cage up & it fell apart. I re-soldered it and started cleaning it up again today & it came apart again. So I'm done with the steel wire.


Chris,

Have you considered using epoxy?

Tom


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Have you considered using epoxy?


It's a possibility, but right now I'm kind of out of patience. Thanks for the idea though, I shall consider it!


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> It's a possibility, but right now I'm kind of out of patience. Thanks for the idea though, I shall consider it!


Did you attach heat sinks on either side of the area you were cleaning up to prevent the heat from melting your soldered joints? Or were you cleaning up messy soldered joints when it came apart?

Tom


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Did you attach heat sinks on either side of the area you were cleaning up to prevent the heat from melting your soldered joints? Or were you cleaning up messy soldered joints when it came apart?


I was lightly sanding only. Both times.
Don't worry, I'll work this out. One way or another.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> I was lightly sanding only. Both times.
> Don't worry, I'll work this out. One way or another.


OK. IIRC you mentioned soldering wasn't your "thing" so I thought you might not be experienced in the use of heat sinks to localize the heat.

I'm sure you'll get it done one way or the other.

Tom


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## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Sounds like a cold solder joint. Make sure you sand the metal where the parts are about to be joined. Liquid flux works really well on such small parts. Might be the only thing that works on such small parts? Just the smallest dot is all that is needed, but it is needed. And as previously mentioned, use something as a heat sink on either side of the joint, probably small alligator clips would work best. Otherwise you'll melt the adjacent joins. And make sure you're using the right kind of flux for steel. Personally, I'd use brass wire. Brilliant job on your Seaview, by the way!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> Brilliant job on your Seaview, by the way!


Thanks. It's getting better....
Also thanks on the soldering tips. I tried it again but still a **FAIL**. But I did a lot of tests today, and I'll be combining a few ideas I got here to reach my goal. Thanks to all of you guys!








* This is my tester kit, just in case you think I went postal on my model...


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

Chris,

Un-plated Steel solders fine, provided you do use a liquid acid flux as said above and a good grade of solder. 

Personally, I'd use .015" or maybe .020" o.d. (K&S) Brass rod (wire really.) I usually anneal the brass first, a match will do fine in that small diameter. That way you can wrap the stuff a few times around a rod of the desired diameter and clip off what you need for a perfect ring as well as the twin hoops.

Also, most solders have now had the lead removed from them because the Government is of the opinion we'd each and every single one of us accidentally eat the stuff and be out of it for when we need it such as for projects like this one..... ahem.

I'd recommend making an assembly fixture out of a small but parallel and smooth block of hardwood, maple, or oak. IF you have access to a drill press it's reasonably easy. The hard part is accurately drilling the holes the correct distances apart. Trial and error there. You need a #78 drill bit (.016" o.d.) or eight as they're easy to break. Most Hobby shops stock the size and small pin vises for holding drills that fine.

If you succeed at that making of the wooden fixture, the hoops are next out of the .015"/,020" brass rod using a #2, 1 or 0 paint brush handle. The handles are tapered so somewhere on there will be just right. Fit the clipped-off hoops into the wood block's drilled holes and add your ring. Soak it all with acid flux and solder away.

You'll have four solid joints that way. And don't forget to NOT eat the stuff and wash your hands after handling it. --P.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Super 7 said:


> And don't forget to NOT eat the stuff and wash your hands after handling it. --P.


Hahahah, thanks Paul, and great soldering tips there!:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Weird thing, I just found out Paul Sawtell did the score to "The Last Man On Earth" starring Vincent Price. It's not on his IMDB listing...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Two sets of window stickers to shield the hull paint. I know, they look 'iffy' but I'll cut them carefully tomorrow _inside the lines_.  If it's not rainy or windy I'll paint.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I said I wouldn't post again until it was done, but I'm just so damn excited...
I showed it to Steve H first because I was so nervous it might not come out well, but it seems to be on track! Clean up will have to wait until the paint is fully dried (48 hrs- grrrr argh) but here it is:

















I keep hearing the Paul Sawtell theme in my head...


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## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

You have every reason to be excited, because that is a thing of beauty. It so looks like the Seaview that there is no way from telling from the photos what scale it might be. That could be at least 4' long, for all anyone can tell. 
One thing: correct me if I'm worng, but none of the windows on the Seaview were ever rectangular. Their bottom and top edges all followed a curve. Are your white markings simply a placement guide? - because as such they're perfect. But you are going to round the shapes around the noise's center of curvature?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> Are your white markings simply a placement guide? - because as such they're perfect. But you are going to round the shapes around the noise's center of curvature?


The masks had some leakage as I expected. Always happens. I'll clean up the lines, but not much 'rounding' should be necessary. It's a work in progress though so we'll see...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Minor 1st paint correction before clean up & final detailing. This paint is really shiny too- think I'll flatten it a bit in the end. Have to really finely sand the added vertical paint level line I just created as well. Still considering more window content... so yeah, this will be a little bit longer than I was expecting. _This_ is the fun part of this build- the art choices. However, each paint modification takes 24+ hrs to dry. Ah well, it's the Name Of The Game (anyone get my old TV ref there?).


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Still in progress. More fine sanding needed, but the new paint has to dry first. Again. Then more clean-up. Watching paint dry is very meditative. Luckily I am a fan of Buddha.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

I really like that shade of grey you're using for the hull; it's more like the film version, which was slightly lighter than the color used during the first season. :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> I really like that shade of grey you're using for the hull; it's more like the film version, which was slightly lighter than the color used during the first season. :thumbsup:


It's a strange colour- it looks different in different lighting... the flash brings out the bluish in it, but yeah, I think I got a good one (after buying & testing 3 different ones). It's Rustoleum gloss winter grey. But like I said I'll be flattening it with a flat lacquer.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I've done no less than ten paint corrections now, and I still have to do more Exacto scraping to clean corners, but it's coming along. I don't know if you all can see the paint lines that have built up here, but they will be the last thing I attend to- unlike my soldering skillz my sanding techniques are reliable. Then a buff, final window content (if any) & flat coat. Then a gloss for the windows.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Ha ha, okay, I finally got the windows painted in right and I said to myself, "Self, you've gone this far, why not go the extra mile & do this thing thing a little fancier?"
So now I'm in the process of carving the windows out in thin depths and later I'm laying clear curved (with a heat gun- already did tests) styrene strips in so it doesn't look just painted on! Let's see if I can make _this_ work.

















Stay tuned....


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

That's looking really good, Chris. That last pic, the bow view from above with the darker gray, that makes the geometry of the bow and the various curvature 'pop' and it really looks like you've nailed that shape. If I mentally peel off the manta fins it seems to follow the shape of the 12 window 'prototype' model very well. 

I think ya did it. 

Now, the original 'candy shiny' gray. I LIKE the color, but I'm not that keen on the shine, UNLESS you are thinking of making this a purposeful 'promotional display' model ala the one seen in Adm. Nelson's office. (Movie, but I think they did that in the TV series at least once).

If you are planning to weather it or use the other, darker gray (as seen in the recent photos) then nevermind.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Now, the original 'candy shiny' gray. I LIKE the color, but I'm not that keen on the shine


Oh, I got a flat lacquer spray for that unwanted shine my friend. I looked for the right flat colour at my local model store & couldn't find it- so again I had to improvise.:grin2:
That grey on now is primer (I ran out of white!).
Also, I went to the hardware store to get an Exacto blade I need to clean the window 'sill' edges I'm making and it was only available in a $20 SET! So I came home & snapped off a piece of a blade I already had to make it the right size for me...








(have I mentioned that I love Imgur?)


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> So now I'm in the process of carving the windows out in thin depths and later I'm laying clear curved (with a heat gun- already did tests) styrene strips in so it doesn't look just painted on!


Chris,

I just got back to following your adventure and if you are having any issues with the window shapes, Gary K. had to add the 8 windows when he did the 1/128th conversion. He's always been helpful and eager to share info...

Tom


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Oh, I got a flat lacquer spray for that unwanted shine my friend. I looked for the right flat colour at my local model store & couldn't find it- so again I had to improvise.:grin2:
> That grey on now is primer (I ran out of white!).
> Also, I went to the hardware store to get an Exacto blade I need to clean the window 'sill' edges I'm making and it was only available in a $20 SET! So I came home & snapped off a piece of a blade I already had to make it the right size for me...
> 
> ...


I was just thinking that with some 'panel lining' and slight weathering that gray was just fine. 

Man, remember the days when you could go into a hobby or craft or art supply store and buy a sleeve of ANY size X-Acto blade without having to resort to that 'gotta buy this set' nonsense? I mean, I'm sure they had #11 blades and a couple of others on a peg or 'zip strip' nearby but specialty stuff? *pffft* good luck.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This is precision demanding work, except I messed up some edges a tiny bit. *sigh* When the primer dries I can plug up the tiny chips I made (not many- about 5), sand & refinish. Best case, it works and I lay in the clear styrene windows. Worst case, I fill them back in, sand & just paint 'em on. My money's on it working though. It's been so long now that another week (or two) won't be any big deal to me.









Plus: More manta modification based on Paul's vast knowledge... not done yet.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

hurm. What all did you do to the mantas? Add plastic/putty? remove some? It's hard to tell but to my eye it seems to make the entire nose profile too 'round', like a magnifying glass. It seems to lessen the 'organic' look or something. 

But if that's correct, then it's correct. I may well be thrown off by the different colors of paint/plastic/putty/whatever.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> It's hard to tell but to my eye it seems to make the entire nose profile too 'round', like a magnifying glass. It seems to lessen the 'organic' look or something.
> 
> But if that's correct, then it's correct. *I may well be thrown off by the different colors of paint/plastic/putty/whatever*.


Yeah, I had them too flared out laterally as opposed down vertically. When painted you'll see the actual look.
Two months ago I thought this would be a two week build. Silly silly British me....:surprise:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> Two months ago I thought this would be a two week build. Silly silly British me....:surprise:


Most great build telescope like that...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oh my, more sanding... This is the last time I swear. This is the thinnest the mantas will get, and the best overall shape I can get to. Tomorrow the windows & the cage.


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

*Thiiiiinned Mantas*

_Lookin' good_ Chris! Whaddabout the sail height? --PKL


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Slightly off topic. Did the 17 footer do all the surface shots or did they sometimes use the 8 footer?


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

*8-1/2 foot on the surface*



Y3a said:


> Slightly off topic. Did the 17 footer do all the surface shots or did they sometimes use the 8 footer?


IF memory serves (it's been YEARS!)... THE single exception was in one of the "Phantom" episodes where the 8-1/2 foot miniature slides it's nose up onto the beach. Note the window frames and rearwards leaning limber holes.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Super 7 said:


> _Lookin' good_ Chris! Whaddabout the sail height? --PKL


If I lower the sail height I'm afraid that will make the (already too thick) hull look thicker, so Imma leave it alone except for adding the 4 deadlights at the end of this voyage.
Ack, what a mess!









Almost hardened...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

And NOW>>>
.... more watching primer dry... 










Finding necessary corrections you can only identify after applying priming is like...








But then, I just get more determined!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The patient is out of surgery...








But the primer is still drying.


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

Chris,

Wouldya Puleeze [email protected]@k at the opening page on my Moebius Seaview thread and see what I did for my FORMER FRIEND :Mr. Come to N.Y, and I'll Knock youse on yaw a**".... I mean "Voyage Fan's" little Moebius? I lowered the sail and nothing else and it was a huge improvement. You've gone THIS far,.....so no lame excuses dude. (I told you this ain't easy, but it's worth it.) P.

P.S. I'd recommend "Tamiya Color" spray paint #TS 66 as it's spot-on for the 17 foot 8 window Seaview top color and leaves a beautiful smooth as glass satin finish.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Super 7 said:


> IF memory serves (it's been YEARS!)... THE single exception was in one of the "Phantom" episodes where the 8-1/2 foot miniature slides it's nose up onto the beach. Note the window frames and rearwards leaning limber holes.


It was Terror on Dinosaur Island episode I saw last weekend that got me to wondering about it. Funny that the sail fin on the port side was twisted out of alignment with other fin so thats why they had to shove the nose onto the beach.


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

*beach*

Right, thanks..... I just remembered an island. After all, I'm far more interested in the effects shots than the story-line's content of those color episodes, that is after the first dozen or so.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

Me too actually.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Wow! The manta fin mods really work!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Wow! The manta fin mods really work!


I blame Paul L.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Super 7 said:


> I lowered the sail and nothing else and it was a huge improvement. You've gone THIS far,.....so no lame excuses dude. (I told you this ain't easy, but it's worth it.) P.


I'll consider it.
F**k, I'll DO it.
_Thanks_, more sanding now.... this is never ending.... :freak:


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> I blame Paul L.


TANKS, TANKS ALOT! (Chief Curly to Kowalski in "Submarine Sunk Heah")


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> I'll consider it.
> F**k, I'll DO it.
> _Thanks_, more sanding now.... this is never ending.... :freak:


Better................isn't it?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Super 7 said:


> Better................isn't it?


Yeah, you were right.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, cage successfully attached (I cracked a bit of the underside of the cage attachment circle thingy, but I expected that since I was drilling the underside holes at such a weird angle- easy fix). I'll do more clean up (gooey epoxy lines, window sill straightening) & re-prime tomorrow.

















That cage looks so big all shiny silver like that!


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


>


Chris, I'm curious what made you decide to do what appears to be a major mod to the mantas. After a time did you decide you weren't satisfied with the originals, or did you discover better photos or something that convinced you a re-do was necessary? I really admire the job you're doing with the sculpting...


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I think he was going to go with manta fins that were slightly modified from the '4 window' bow but I believe Paul L. convinced him to do the full modification, because of course the manta fins (between the 8 window and 4 window) have very little in common other than they exist.

And they look MUCH better. Chris did a great job capturing that maddeningly subtle and complex shape of the 8 window bow.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Thanks Steve, you responded for me!

Now, more clean up. 
"Look at you; you're a mess again." - Carolina from *Desperado*










And now, ready for re-cutting, but I'm beat at the moment and I have tomorrow off...


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

*Knowing and not knowing*



Steve H said:


> .....because of course the manta fins (between the 8 window and 4 window) have very little in common other than they exist.
> 
> And they look MUCH better. Chris did a great job capturing that maddeningly subtle and complex shape of the 8 window bow.


Not quite Steve.

As with the presidential debates, when one's name is invoked --that person has the right to respond. And _if_ this offends, I am sorry, but it is what it is.

I have mentioned this in the past; when one speaks as an authority but without _real knowledge_ of a given subject, that person does every interested party a true disservice. As whether knowingly or unknowingly, they’re obfuscating the accuracy of the historic record, misdirecting as it were. Further, when they are shown to be uninformed, it makes them look at the very minimum, well, .... bad.

Though the Seaview miniature nose undersides were heavily modified for the Flying Sub Bay, at least 7/8ths of the top surfaces of the front "Manta-Fins" were untouched from the original 8 window versions, to the F.S. version Seaviews. And that’s true for all three of the main miniatures. 

Where Steve, did you come up with the idea they "had very little in common"? By your statement it does appear you've never examined any of the original miniatures. Had you done so, you'd know otherwise and probably not have "professed" as you have. Kindly stop doing that, please? It clouds what it is I have been trying to do from the start: to disseminate correct information regarding the Seaview miniatures.

On the Manta’s top surfaces, it was primarily the leading edge was extended to accommodate the lengthened area surrounding the headlight, what I call the"snoot". That and a radiusing of the Manta's perimeters elsewhere. That is all and this is clearly visible in close-up photos or _runbyes_ in the series.

Also, Chris knows he still should "flatten" both sides of the center line profile of the front section of the nose (above the headlight) as that area (the "snoot") on the original miniatures, was considerably built-up between the four windows when compared with the significantly more blunt 8 window versions. This built-up nose center line (up towards the tip of the deck) was added during the conversion from 8 window to F.S. version. This was on all of the miniatures, including and especially the 2 foot. 

This Moebius kit Chris is convertering, still retains the top down shape of the FS version: A bit too pronounced of a nose center line. If that isn't corrected you'll see too much of the center-most 4 windows in a dead-on side view. To back up that comment, I offer this composite of two frame grabs from the feature of the 17 foot:



Above are two frames I've superimposed near each other, as the 17 foot Seaview slowly backs out of the mine field. The reason for the superimposed images is this: if you follow the directions I've described below, you'll generate and be able to see *a true 3D image of the 17 foot, 8 window Seaview*, which will reveal a great deal about it's actual nose contours. 

You'll see just how blunt the nose actually was on this version as you can clearly see inside to the opposite side's windows and therefore get a very different perspective than seen since this one was cut up in 1965! 

1) Get the image size to about 4" to 5" across, (use the control key and the + or - sign key to adjust the image's overall size). Some may find the need to further reduce the image size to about 3" across.

2) Then take a full sized letter envelope and put one end on your screen between the two images. Tilt the envelope slightly to the right so as to be parallel to the trailing edge of the windows. 

3) Now, put on your reading glasses (or take them off if you're nearsighted) and get your eyes up to about 20-24 inches from the screen with the envelope in line so you see the _only left image_ with your left eye and only the right image with your right eye. 

4) _Relax your focus_ as though you're gazing into the distance and note how the two images converge into a single and true 3D photo of the Seaview's profile. 

With this technique, you can see just how blunt it actually was also as seen in this mirrored for symmetry, (the right side isn't fully finished out) top down view:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Curious, is this too 'snooty' then? 










'Cause my Wife is asking whenTF I will be done & clear out all this mess...


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

*Probably*



Chrisisall said:


> Curious, is this too 'snooty' then?
> Probably
> 
> 
> ...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Super 7 said:


> In dead on side view profile, I feel it needs to be a bit more rounded from the top down towards the headlight. -P.


Once again, you are correct sir!
Thanks for the pix! Back to the drawing board. I cannot live with the present look. I got so focused on getting the window shapes right that each time I made corrections on the 'sills' I lost sight of the overall shape & sanded past my target. I've too much time & attention to this project invested to not do it as well as I'm able.

































Back to plan A... actually carving out windows with my 'stone knives & bearskins' in my limited work space with this material & bad lighting was a tad too ambitious. It'll still look great, just not as fancy as I would have liked.
The sublime contours are more important than anything else.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

It's too bad you weren't able to pull a RTV mold off the windows you had carved. You could have made a nice template for carving the windows on the newly re-worked bow. 

But then again, maybe that wouldn't have worked, incorrect alignment with the new shape. Hurm. 

Welp. Either way, you're getting the subtleties down just fine. Keep at it!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> It's too bad you weren't able to pull a RTV mold off the windows you had carved. You could have made a nice template for carving the windows on the newly re-worked bow.
> 
> But then again, maybe that wouldn't have worked, *incorrect alignment with the new shape*. Hurm.
> 
> Welp. Either way, you're getting the subtleties down just fine. Keep at it!


This shape is so complex, I'm actually GLAD the carved windows didn't work out because now I'm getting closer to the real thing. This has been such a fascinating discovery process for me. Even when I finish I know I'll have new things to bring to the table should I ever attempt a 2' scratch model when we get our new home (With a freakin' GARAGE!!!!).:wink2:
"It is a dream I have."- King Arthur from *Excalibur*


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## krlee (Oct 23, 2016)

I admire your dedication.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

krlee said:


> I admire your dedication.


Thanks!:grin2:

This just done before I run out to work:


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

This one really should have been a private email. --P.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Again, THANKS!
And no, NOT as easy as I thought. At all.


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## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Chrisisall, your pm box is full.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Newbie123 said:


> Chrisisall, your pm box is full.


Fixed.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I lova to sand....









Not really, but I'm goin' for the gold here... 

Primed.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Man, that's quick work.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


>


If it wasn't for Irwin Allen's fixed idea by large windows, this would be the actual appearance of Seaview, with a huge screen in the control room. :grin2:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

In a way, that's almost the Neptune, isn't it?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> In a way, that's almost the Neptune, isn't it?


Heh, yeah. :grin2:

Just filling in a bit at the top, it'll be dry & sandable in an hour, prime it later, maybe paint tomorrow. It's basically done except for the paint and lights (underside, main, deadlights, & front windows).


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

OK, one thing. I see what seems to be a ridge on the center of the bow now, a faint ridge. Is that supposed to be there on the 8 window? I thought that was part of the re-sculpt to the 4 window. 

It's hard to keep straight, because of the different size filming models all end up with their minor differences. Which one was the one with the obvious seam for a removable section (to access the light inside? easier than having to unbolt the deck I would guess) across and around the upper 4 windows, was that one of the 4 foot models?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> OK, one thing. I see what seems to be a ridge on the center of the bow now, a faint ridge. Is that supposed to be there on the 8 window? I thought that was part of the re-sculpt to the 4 window.


I sculpted it too 'not-faint' & too high. It's on the 2 bigger models. Fixing it now.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Working all the time, and now precipitation (snow/rain) so no priming. I'm SO enthusiastic though! I think I arrived at a proper look! I thinned the mantas down big time because a side view looked so wrong in a picture I took- it was more too high up manta & not enough hull. 
So, no big step forward on this, but I _am_ getting pretty psyched for the finish. 

















Edit: [Ash voice] YEEAAAAHHHH BAAABYYY! [/Ash voice]
Primed it today and I am done with construction. 









OOOOh, new lighting idea for photos:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Got the underside repainted today and I've been considering the hull colour a lot. I feel Krylon classic gray is a bit dark, and Rustoleum winter gray is a bit light, so I plan to use my old rattle can trick here & combine them both- the darker then the lighter applied at nearly the same time. This should create the effect I desire here (it's worked well for me on past projects).


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> Got the underside repainted today and I've been considering the hull colour a lot. I feel Krylon classic gray is a bit dark, and Rustoleum winter gray is a bit light, so I plan to use my old rattle can trick here & combine them both- the darker then the lighter applied at nearly the same time. This should create the effect I desire here (it's worked well for me on past projects).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Super 7 said:


> Or you could have gotten the colors dead-accurate for the 8 window 17 foot by using instead Tamiya TS66 for the top surface and AS16 for the underside with a tough and very thin, durable satin finish instead of those very thick household paints which too often never fully dry.
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that the 17 foot is both lighter and less blue/purple than ether the 8-1/2 foot or 4 foot 8 window Seaviews.


_*Yes, my Master... *_:grin2:
both ordered just this moment. 
Another $20 to make this worth the effort!
Great. Now more waiting. :crying::laugh:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Nice mods Chrisisall!!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Nice mods Chrisisall!!


Thanks man! Coming from you that's quite a compliment.
But I have to say that ************* & his thread made this possible for me- discovering the Seaview (as well as I _have_, which is admittedly not _near_ perfection) has been the best part of 2016 for me as a modeler. I can't wait for the correct paint to arrive (it's supposed to be 11/4). It's just sitting here all primed, poor thing.








:lol:


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> discovering the Seaview (as well as I _have_, which is admittedly not _near_ perfection) has been the best part of 2016 for me as a modeler.


Chris,

The 'boat' just keeps getting better and better looking! The many subtleties of the nose shape are apparent, but I wish I could pick the thing up in my hand, and look at it from all angles. 

You should be proud of the effort you have put out to get the results we all can see and appreciate.

Tom


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, got home from work & my Tamiya was in the mailbox, so I wasted no time...










Three thin coats 10 minutes apart.
This is SO much better than the flat white I was preparing to use!

Not too experienced with synthetic lacquers... I'm assuming it's fully dry once it stops smelling.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

I would suggest letting it cure at least overnight just to be safe. Others may have better advice. 

I like the color.


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## Super 7 (Aug 14, 2004)

Steve H said:


> I would suggest letting it cure at least overnight just to be safe. Others may have better advice.
> 
> 
> I like the color.


 Have you _ever _used this paint Steve? 

Once the odor is gone the _vehicle_ has fully evaporated so it is safe for you to handle it. That said, I'd recommend always handling models painted with Tamiya with tissue so as to not induce a shine on the beautifully smooth satin surface by the simple continued abrasion of your skin. 

And as to the color of course you like it Steve, that's because it's spot-on. Go and watch the opening scene of the feature, especially on Blu-Ray.

It's looking _very _nice Chris. --P.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I got home from work & it was raining. 
But this is New England, so two hours later the sun came out, and I taped up at warp speed & dashed out to paint the hull! Three thin coats 2 minutes apart (wind was coming, sun was going down & temperature was dropping). I crossed my fingers & removed the tape 20 minutes ago (no lifting- YEA!), and I think it's good. Of course NOW it's pitch black outside so I had to use the flash which washes stuff out, but regardless of these photos, the hull colour is a rich deep satin gray that's indeed WAAAAY better than any of the ones I previously tested (thanks Paul). Tomorrow I leave for three days to attend a wedding, so it will have _plenty_ of time to de-gas, and when I return I do the front window painting, do the other light painting, plant on the underside manta lights (sanded & buffed craft plastic crystals) & insert the nose light (chopped LED). The next three days will be torture.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, this is more like how the colour really appears:










Now off to the wedding...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Back late last night, next day (today) home from work, a mad dash to tape & paint before sundown (_thanks_ time change!!!  ) & WOW! A win on the first attempt! 
No clean up necessary! How often does THAT happen?


















Little details now & I'll be done.

Edit: Nose light installed.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Beautiful work! A long journey (longer than first expected!) and a successful conclusion. For now. Until you decide to tweak it some more. 

Seriously, that could practically double for the 4 foot model in Nelson's office, albeit smaller.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Until you decide to tweak it some more.


UMMMMMmmmmm... moooorrreee sanding! Yeeeesssss my precious!

F**K that.:grin2:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just an FYI to any following this, finalization (tiny tweaks & things to bring her to life) are going SO slow. I work every freakin' day from sunup to near sundown, I do modeling on the floor near a cluttered coffee table in vague lighting, and I can't paint indoors, so I am at the mercy of the dark, cold, wind & rain. 
Any of you who have the luxury of a basement, room or even CLOSET where you can do work in REAL light without choking your family with sanding dust or paint fumes *have my total envy*. This should have been done last month. It's dragging on and on and on because every step has to WAIT for the opportune moment. THIS is why this is my first attempt at a model in a year, and why it will be my last one until or IF we ever move to a new house with at least a small corner I can call my own. 
Today after work I did some touch up on the windows, and the wind came up all sudden like & ruined it. 








So now I sand it, and WAIT for tomorrow to re-paint the hull then WAIT until it's dry so I can re-paint the windows and by then my ONLY day off is done by darkness. And that's IF it doesn't RAIN!!!!
Sorry, I'm just so frustrated. 









Edit: So this post is not _all_ negative, I took this opportunity to sand down the mantas a bit more (yes, Steve, my favourite thing ha ha) to get a bit closer to the real deal.









Edit AGAIN: I'm actually so much more happy now. The mantas are closer, and now I can play with the window painting a bit tomorrow (I only work 'till 1).








I actually went to eBay and threw a bid at a 1/128 8 window Seaview model but it rose so fast I said to myself "Eff this, the half-lightbulb nose isn't worth the trouble at THIS price." Not like I'd have a space to go crazy converting it anyway at the moment. 
I'll roll with my little 14" Seaview just fine when it's done until someone offers a better kit.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

That's it. I'm callin' her done. I'm tempted to do more, but truthfully I'm burnt on it. And I'm happy with her now, warts & all. Not perfect by any means, but finally as close as I wanted.


































































Thanks Paul L. for your thread and time.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Bravo!!!! Well done, Chris! Very well done!!! You can't hear it, but I was applauding the last photos!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Seaview said:


> Bravo!!!! Well done, Chris! Very well done!!! You can't hear it, but I was applauding the last photos!


Thank you sir! One thing that worked out well was the Testor's White Lightning lacquer spray I used for the windows- (I wish I had a better camera) it's glossy & a bit reflective. I re-did the windows 4 times, each time I had to sand, re-pain the gray, wait for days until I got a day where it wasn't too late after work or rainy... I see the flaws (most notably in the center line between the windows), but I just don't have the time or workplace to keep on until it's really _perfect_. I generally won't be looking at it dead on from the front anyway.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

This is the point where Moebius announces a new-tool 8 window Seaview in 1/350. 

(nooo, they haven't, it's a joke.)

Nicely done. Very nicely done.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> This is the point where Moebius announces a new-tool 8 window Seaview in 1/350.













> (nooo, they haven't, it's a joke.)













> Nicely done. Very nicely done.


Imperfect, but I get pleasure out of looking at it, and that was my goal.:woohoo:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

You need a 'Lee turned into a werewolf' still for rage issues. It's more fitting.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> You need a 'Lee turned into a werewolf' still for rage issues. It's more fitting.


Fixed above.:grin2:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Now, see, isn't that better? Werewolves make everything better. 

Now that you've gone thru all that work and learning curve for the 8-window Seaview, have you ever given thought to attempting an even more extreme 'backdating' taking a kit all the way to the original '12 window' design?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> Now that you've gone thru all that work and learning curve for the 8-window Seaview, have you ever given thought to attempting an even more extreme 'backdating' taking a kit all the way to the original '12 window' design?


Silly silly British man. Obsession with the movie/first season Seaview cannot end so simply.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just to compare the PL kit I did in early August to the Moebius I just finished, plus a couple showing the lights a bit better:


























Also... this isn't my final Seaview. There will be another...
Obiwan: "Your twin sister's?"
No. I have no twin sister. 
I don't know when, but I want one with REAL WINDOWS. And at least a semblance of an interiour.
This one was just more practice.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Chris! 

Great job indeed, man! 

Everything downloaded for future copy, ops!, I mean, reference. 

Thanks for this thread.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Chris!
> 
> Great job indeed, man!
> 
> ...


Hey- it's *Seaview*'s thread, I just worked here!:grin2:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

seeing your conversion near the old Aurora kit shows how shockingly off that kit actually was. You did a decent build of that kit and it's probably the best 'stock from box' that can be done but man, so MUCH was wrong. It almost makes the AMT Enterprise look like it was lofted off the filming model by comparison!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Steve H said:


> seeing your conversion near the old Aurora kit shows how shockingly off that kit actually was. You did a decent build of that kit and it's probably the best 'stock from box' that can be done but man, so MUCH was wrong. It almost makes the AMT Enterprise look like it was lofted off the filming model by comparison!


Yeah, but one cannot blame the talented guys at Aurora- they did the best they could back then with the simple diagrams they were handed. Enterprise has much more definable lines to her.

Oh, and the nose light cage on my new model is like, at least 1 mm too wide in circumference. This tasks me...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Final analysis here:










Nose cage too big, deck crest too short which also made the window shape determination off by a bit...


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> I actually went to eBay and threw a bid at a 1/128 8 window Seaview model but it rose so fast I said to myself "Eff this, the half-lightbulb nose isn't worth the trouble at THIS price."


Don't give up, they show up from time to time, and they don't always go for a high price...

You appear to have enjoyed the challenge of this build, imagine the challenge of "fixing" the 1/128th... >


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

taneal1 said:


> Don't give up, they show up from time to time, and they don't always go for a high price...
> 
> You appear to have enjoyed the challenge of this build, imagine the challenge of "fixing" the 1/128th... >


Every time I've seen a 1/128 8 window Seaview kit on the bay for auction it rose so high so fast it was ridiculous. The _buy it now_ prices have been sky high.:frown2:
So day before yesterday I looked at my email after I got home from work looking to see another "you've been outbid/ sorry you lost this one" and to my complete surprise it said "You won this item.":woohoo:
I threw a small bid at it and it did not rise!! WTF???
So now it's on the way.
And for the past few hours I've been researching all the images and builds I could of it, and basically it has two main problems (yes Paul, a lot more than that, I know...:grin2 for me- the nacelles are poorly shaped (but I might be able to live with it) & the windows sit in too much of a bulge left & right (the center isn't so bad). 
I can't say what I'll modify (in fact I can't say I'll modify anything at all) until I see it in person. 
Some pics I found make it look fairly acceptable _as is_ *to me*; some make it look all light bulb-y (camera too close, like THIS??)







... 
I'll have to access what I can reasonably do without makin' myself crazy. My Stepson has offered the use of his basement for painting (what a great kid!!! Sorry, _adult_), so painting won't be an issue THIS time. It's all about the windows. Can I modify the hull & still use the kit windows cut apart & inserted independently? There might be a curve differential that would prohibit that. Can I fabricate windows to fit? If I have to, possibly. 
Will I wuss out & just go OOTB to make it easy? Could happen.
Either way it goes, I'm havin' an early Christmas!:laugh:


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## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

Beautiful job, Chrisisall!
I've always felt a fondness for the 8 window version. But my favorite Seaview is the 4 window 8', having spent three impressionable years watching that thing. I really don't like the 17' because we never saw it on screen except for surface shots mostly looking down or maybe a rare shot looking up from below. Never saw its nose on-screen and it still looks deformed to me. 
Looking forward to your next project!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

*A little bit OT question*

Dear Seaview!

I'm sorry for make an OT question here, but it is related (ok, almost) to the subject. I didn't see the point in open another thread just for this. 

THE QUESTION: Is the Moebius reissue of the 1/128 4 windows Seaview totally corrected from the inaccuracies of the first issue? 

I tried to find out reviews and threads about that kit here and in other forums with no success.

Thanks :wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> THE QUESTION: Is the Moebius reissue of the 1/128 4 windows Seaview totally corrected from the inaccuracies of the first issue?


From what I've read (not actually paying 100% attention because I was researching their 8 window) the reissue corrects some but not all issues. I think they mainly fixed the sail, and I think the reissue is a bit longer as well. Hope that helps!:grin2:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Thanks Chris. 

I have heard of the addition of a hatch!(?) What could this possible be? 

Note: curiously, although one of the main corrections is on the FS Bay doors, the new box art shows the bay entrance borders curved, both laterally and longitudinally.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Chris.
> 
> I have heard of the addition of a hatch!(?) What could this possible be?


 No idea, but I was just skimming...


> Note: curiously, although one of the main corrections is on the FS Bay doors, the new box art shows the bay entrance borders curved, both laterally and longitudinally.


I seem to remember they fixed that too, yes.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks Chris.
> 
> I have heard of the addition of a hatch!(?) What could this possible be?
> 
> Note: curiously, although one of the main corrections is on the FS Bay doors, the new box art shows the bay entrance borders curved, both laterally and longitudinally.


If memory serves, when they made the large 8-window Seaview kit they added an open missile hatch with missile (to duplicate the climatic scene from the VTTBOTS movie) and I *think* they ported it over to the revised 4-window kit. 

If that's not it then I have no clue.


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## taneal1 (Jul 27, 2014)

Chrisisall said:


> So day before yesterday I looked at my email after I got home from work looking to see another "you've been outbid/ sorry you lost this one" and to my complete surprise it said "You won this item."


Congrats, Chris. My predictions of course always come true, but this one was quicker than usual.











Chrisisall said:


> the windows sit in too much of a bulge left & right (the center isn't so bad).


The width at the knuckle is very close to matching the Fox drawings, but the 'cheeks' are too puffy. Flattening them a bit in Photoshop makes a considerable difference, but that's as far as I've gotten. No time to spare.

I am of course curious what you come up with as I hope to find the time in 2017 to take a shot at doing what I started 3 years ago.


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