# Issues with Krylon primer?



## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

I used Krylon primer on a resin model kit, and when it dried it ended up with a sort of bumpy, almost grainy texture to it. Has anyone else ever experienced anything similar?

(I'll get the exact type of primer and post some pics when I get back home later tonight.







)


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## Tim Casey (Dec 4, 2004)

I hate it when people answer a question with a question, but did you thoroughly wash the kit with soap and water before you primed it? There may have been a lot of mold release on it.


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## GEH737 (Aug 9, 1999)

No help with your Krylon question, but "Plasti-Kote" is a far superior primer - it can be a little tougher to find (automotive stores for example) - but a Google search can help. I've started using Tamiya primers lately - and although expensive, it comes down to what's my time worth, and reducing the hassle factor.


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks for your replies.

@Tim Casey: I soaked the resin parts in a water/Comet mixture overnight before I started, and then I scrubbed and rinsed them, so I'm pretty sure there's no mold release left.

@GEH737: Yeah, I probably should have just bitten the bullet and gotten a proper model primer in the first place. No more el cheapo paints for me. 










Here's photo of one of the offending parts -- it gets sort of blotchy near the edge of the saucer, and in general the paint just feels sort of grainy to the touch. It's almost like it one coat of primer doesn't sit over, or blend with the next one properly.

I'm going to try sanding the worst bits a bit, see if that helps.


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Whew! Turns out I just needed to go over my model parts with some wet sandpaper to get rid of that weird grainy texture. Crisis averted. 

Thank anyways though, I really appreciate it!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

A gritty finish is due to (usually) the paint drying before it hits the model instead of hitting wet, flowing together smootly, and then drying. Spraying from too far away can cause it. Also too much air pressure (typical for a can) will cause the same thing.

If you are airbrushing, a sandy finish is due to the paint being too thick, being sprayed on from too far away, and with too much pressure. At least you can control those variables with an airbrush better than with a can.


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## Tim Casey (Dec 4, 2004)

Glad it worked out.


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

djnick66 said:


> A gritty finish is due to (usually) the paint drying before it hits the model instead of hitting wet, flowing together smootly, and then drying. Spraying from too far away can cause it. Also too much air pressure (typical for a can) will cause the same thing.


That sounds about right, since I sprayed from 2 feet away in 28 degree weather in direct sunlight. It's like I went through the "doing it wrong" checklist or something


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Carl_G said:


> ...It's like I went through the "doing it wrong" checklist or something


When you're right, you're right, Carl!  I've always found Krylon to be an excellent primer. But yes, it does have to be applied correctly to provide the best finish. You already seem to know about preparing the model's surface to receive the paint.

It helps to warm the paint (this goes for any spray can paint, not just the Krylon brands) by placing the can in a tub of warm - _not_ hot - water for a few minutes. This seems to help the paint flow more easily through the nozzle. Sometimes a little paint in the nozzle can spurt out in a glob when the valve is opened or closed. To avoid this, you simply press the nozzle before you make the pass over the model and release it after you've made the pass.

An even coat of paint can be achieved if you try to keep the nozzle at a uniform distance from your model. In the case of a round one like that in your photograph, a cheap plastic lazy susan lets you move the model with one hand while spraying with the other. Building up the coverage with several light coats will provide a smoother surface and prevent the solvents in the paint from attacking the plastic, as they might if too heavy a coat of paint was applied. Besides, you don't want runs or drips. If you do get them, just allow the paint to dry hard, then sand the imperfections smooth with 400- or 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper - it's Krylon _sandable_ primer, after all. The car guys wouldn't think of painting those mirror-like showroom finishes without sanding the primer smooth before they spray their color coats.

Mist applications are essential if you're priming a vinyl model. I have yet to experience any difficulties from spraying Krylon primers over vinyl kits. I like Krylon's other colors for many jobs because they're much more economical than dedicated hobby paints - flat black is flat black, right? If I must have a specific color, then I'll go back to hobby spray cans or more likely, simply mix the color I need and airbrush it.

Have another go with your primer, make sure to post photos of your masterpiece when you're done, and have a great weekend.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I use the Krylon primer now and then. I do find it to have a rougher finish than my favorite primers, Tamiya's grey or fine white sprays. I also like Brite Touch automotive primer which is very very similar to the Tamiya stuff. But, you can get the sandy, gritty finish with any spray paint if you aren't careful!


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## Aurora-brat (Oct 23, 2002)

I can't for the life of me understand why folks still use Krylon Primer, it is one of the worst products on the market. 










I use Plastikote Sandable Primer for all my modeling, resin and styrene. It is by far the best spray can primer on the market, sticks like glue and sands like powder. You can even get it in Sandable Spot Filler form which is wonderful for when you want to eliminate fine surface scratching.

Please, please do yourselves a favor and try it, I promise you won't ever go back to Krylon.

Tory


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Aurora-brat said:


> I can't for the life of me understand why folks still use Krylon Primer, it is one of the worst products on the market.


Well, I'm pretty sure the words "el cheapo" popped up in one of my earlier posts, so that's a strong hint 

I'll see if I can find some of that plastikote paint and give it a try next model I paint. Thanks!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I wouldn't call the Krylon stuff "one of the worst products on the market". I can think of a number of Testors products I would rate lower. For what it is, and its price, its ok. I prefer the White over the grey, which dries much smoother. 

I used to buy the Plasti Kote stuff and agree its very good. BUT it is no longer sold in my area. In the past i bought it at Wal Mart and a local auto parts store but neither sell it now.


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## Dave P (Jan 5, 2005)

You can get it on Amazon for around $8 or less.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I wouldn't bother to mail order it. I use Tamiya primer 90% of the time.


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## Tim Casey (Dec 4, 2004)

Carl_G said:


> That sounds about right, since I sprayed from 2 feet away in 28 degree weather in direct sunlight. It's like I went through the "doing it wrong" checklist or something


It goes to show you how wide the world wide web is. Where on earth are you that it's 28 degrees? Is that Fahrenheit? Across the US we're dying of heat!


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Tim Casey said:


> It goes to show you how wide the world wide web is. Where on earth are you that it's 28 degrees? Is that Fahrenheit? Across the US we're dying of heat!


Haha, 28 in crazy Celcius Canada talk is 84-ish in Farenheit.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Aurora-brat said:


> I can't for the life of me understand why folks still use Krylon Primer, it is one of the worst products on the market...


I use Krylon's primers because they perform consistently well and they're readily available at reasonable prices. In addition. I've never had compatibility issues with Krylon primer and neither plastic nor paint. I have tried other primers and wasn't impressed enough to switch from the product on which I know I can rely.



Carl G said:


> ... 28 in crazy Celcius Canada talk is 84-ish in Farenheit.


Yeah, but 28 degrees in Fahrenheit would still be a rotten temperature for spraying, Carl. But we can agree that it's not a bad temperature for serving beer, eh? :wave:


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Mark McGovern said:


> Yeah, but 28 degrees in Fahrenheit would still be a rotten temperature for spraying, Carl. But we can agree that it's not a bad temperature for serving beer, eh? :wave:


:thumbsup:

@*Mark McGovern, djnick66*: I had to re-spray some parts, and this time I followed your advice and sprayed from closer and in the shade so the sun didn't dry the paint in mid-air. It went on a lot better this time around. There was still a bit of grainy feel, but going over it with wet sandpaper took care of that in like 2 seconds 

I posted new pics in this thread, if you'd care to peruse:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=367419

Thanks again, guys!


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I like the Kyrlon for styrene. I use Krylon paints whenever they are applicable as a carryover from my model rocket hobby. They work great on model rockets and the price is really nice when you are covering a 5 to 8 foot rocket. However some years back I was trying to fill the spiral grooves in the body tube and one way to do it is to spray on primer and then sand down so that the groove fills up. It usually takes 3 to 4 coats sanding in between. I found the Krylon would gum up my sandpaper even after letting it dry for a couple of days which was dragging out he process anyway. I tried Rustoleum gray primer and the gumming problem was minimal after only a couple of hours of drying. The latest cans of Krylon primer though don't seem to have the problem so I think they might have changed their formula. Also, I had a real problem with the Krylon primer on a Pegasus vinyl WOW Martian. It didn't cure even after 3 or 4 days, stayed tacky. I painted over it with the Rustoleum and no problem then. I've used only Rustoleum on the Pegasus models ever since.


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