# 18" Enterprise practice build



## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

As some of you know, I'm working on documenting and building an original issue 1966 AMT Enterprise. And as this model represents a large investment of time, energy and money, the last thing I want to do is to go into that build cold.

Because I am neither a prolific nor proficient model builder, and my last model was finished last year, I figure I'd use a current issue Round 2 18 inch Enterprise kit to brush up on my model building skills. And as the last thing I need around the apartment is another _Enterprise_, I'll be building this model up as the Republic.

In planning out this build, I don't wish to take the model too far away from it's AMT roots, so I'll most likely only replace a handful of parts. One of the things about the retooled AMT/Round 2 models that bothered me the most was the bridge/B/C deck structure, but replacing that part on the kit seemed to be more than I was wanting to do. So after studying the photos of the model, I figured out what would fix the esthetics without wholly changing the characteristics of the model.








Basically all I did was cut the piece off the primary hull and glued it back on lower. For me, the small change in profile makes for a big change in the overall feel.

I also shortened the lower cone structure and will eventually add a replacement sensor dome platform. But I think those are the only _large_ changes I plan on making to the primary hull.

In addition to the lower sensor dome platform (from JT Graphics), I plan on getting a Pilot Navigation Deflector dish and Flux Chillers (from Federation Models), and first pilot nacelle end caps (from JT Graphics). Other than that, I'll be sticking with the kit parts (even if I make some additional modifications/additions).

I'm hoping to have some fun with this build before starting in on my other model. :thumbsup:


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

That small change helps alot! Looking forward to your progress! :thumbsup:


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!


I've done a little more work on the primary hull. Mainly just punching holes where I'll be adding marker lights (which won't be lit). This sort of gives a feel for how they'll be arranged (they'll be more visible on a gray model compared to white plastic).








I haven't finished working on the lower cone (including filling in those dimples) because I want to make sure I know how everything is going to come together. So until I get the lower sensor dome assembly, I don't want to do too much more.

What I have also started in on is disassembly of some of the parts. I cut the center rings out of the deflector assembly so I can arrange those elements better, and I cut the supports of the nacelles so I can re-attach them in the correct spot (like I did on my last two Enterprise models).








I'm still mapping out what additional changes I'll make to the secondary hull, but at this point I'm not considering anything too major.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

This is one of my favourite modeling subjects!

Your changes are fascinating - I'll be watching your thread with interest!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!

I have a rough list of changes in mind that popped out at me while working on my last two models of the Enterprise as to what would effect the overall feel/character of one of these models without having to replace tons of elements. I had long wondered if these small changes would be enough to alter the feel of a standard AMT model, and now I have a reasonably relaxed build of one to try them out on.

Besides the fact that I have two Enterprise models (and a third on the way with the 1966 build) and one Constellation model (a practice build of the 22 inch cutaway), I figure that doing the Republic would give me enough license to mix and match some of the elements from both pilot configurations and the series configuration.

In addition to some of these physical modifications, I plan on trying out some ideas on painting as well. I noticed in my studies of the series configuration of the 11 foot model that some elements came off as slightly more metallic than the base gray shades. I generally use a combination of camouflage, gull and light sea grays (which are all about the same color gray but 10% different in darkness), which have a warm yellow/green tint to them. What I was thinking of doing was using light ghost gray for accenting the more metallic looking parts as it is about the same darkness as gull gray, but has a blue tint to it. And I need a place to try out some painting ideas for the nacelle domes before attempting to implement them on the 1966 model (which are the white plastic version).

I'm also going to try out some weathering techniques similar to what *Gregatron* has done on his models. Plus I really need to practice the whole decaling thing (which I'm not very good at) because the decals are going to be one of the most important parts of the 1966 build I'll be working on after I finish with this model.

I do hope this model turns out as cool looking as I imagine it will... but most of all, I hope I get a lot better at some key areas before I risk using those techniques on my 1966 model.


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

Shaw said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I'm also going to try out some weathering techniques similar to what *Gregatron* has done on his models.



You do me honor, sir! Your own work has been a great inspriation for me. Few have performed such an amazing, in-depth study of the original models.


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## BolianAdmiral (Feb 24, 2009)

I'll be following this, so I know what to do when I get to my own AMT Enterprise.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys! :thumbsup:





Gregatron said:


> You do me honor, sir!


Your result speak for themselves. You were able to nicely apply the weathering exactly how you wanted it.

Weathering has been something which I've been able to avoid so far, but I need to be able to use the technique. And hopefully I'll be able to get reasonable results (after all, this is a practice model, so I'm not looking for perfect on this one).


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## Scott Yeager (Nov 4, 2009)

I have deep respect for anyone attempting a 1966 build tred slowly.I myself am restoring a 1967 orange cap Enterprise a somewhat rare version.It was the first long box with lights in both the sauser and the nacells.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Scott Yeager said:


> I have deep respect for anyone attempting a 1966 build tred slowly.I myself am restoring a 1967 orange cap Enterprise a somewhat rare version.It was the first long box with lights in both the sauser and the nacells.


That is a great version of the model (I love the lighted nacelles on it).

Yeah, I'm definitely not going to rush into the 1966 build until I'm pretty confident in my skills again. It was a pretty expensive model, so I figure it is best to get back into the swing of building with a less rare subject like this Round 2 re-issue.



On the subject of this practice model...

I got somewhat side tracked with work for clients, but I'm back to making some progress.

I had always found that the rear end caps of the 18 inch model looked odd. They always seemed a little long, and now I know that they are. When comparing them to Jefferies' drawings for the filming models, I found that the ratio of the length to the diameter was off on the 18 inch model's parts. Where Jefferies' original drawings seem to be about 0.7/0.9, the parts on the 18 inch model are about 0.8/0.9.

To fix this on the Round 2 model, I shortened/reshaped the end caps. It also gave me the opportunity to remove the incorrect spheres which I'm planning on replacing with the rectangular feature from the first pilot version of the 33 inch model.

Similarly, I shorten the nacelle body just behind the domes (which was too long).

Both of these are small changes in the overall structure of the nacelles, but I think they'll contribute to a better feel when the model is finished.

I also started removing the rear box features so that I can replace them, and started filling the holes where the supports originally met the nacelles. Those aspects are being worked in with the sanding of the seams where the two halves came together as they are part of the overall finish of the nacelle bodies.

And an additional change I've made to the dorsal is to move the connection point back slightly so that the back edge of the dorsal will meet with the outer edge of the primary hull. I'm not sure this change will make any difference at all, but I figured I'd try it out anyways.

I also reworked the rings in the sensor dish assembly, and tested the parts to make sure I like how they aligned.








I know that isn't much progress after nearly two weeks, but it is starting to come together a little.


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## Shizman (Nov 21, 2008)

I'm currently working on this same model so it's nice to see what you do regarding accurization. I'm using some of JT-Graphics's and DLM's parts though whereas you're doing the fixing yourself.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Shaw, your attention to the small details is inspirational. I doubt most modellers would notice the inaccuracies with the kit end caps and bussard ring like you did. This is going to be very nice when you're finished!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Awesome thread this!


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Intersting work.


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## butch101 (Jun 27, 2006)

please more...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

If this is a "practice" build, I can't wait to see your real stuff!! Clean and beautiful!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

I've been a little distracted lately as my wife recently had surgery, but I'll try to post some progress images soon.

Thanks again!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I still haven't put much time into working on this, but I took a few shots of some of the progress I've made so far (even though there isn't much to show). Most of the parts aren't glued together yet (like the nacelle end caps and domes), they are just assembled for test fittings in these images.








Update: Added image of test assembly of major elements.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

I see you added holes for marker lights on the nacells.... what is your reference for that?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

If you are asking how I centered the hole... I mostly _eyeballed_ it (so they might not be perfectly centered).

If you are asking about if that was part of the original models, I have tons of photos of both models showing that feature. Here is a few examples...


_Click to enlarge_​
... and I included it on my last Enterprise model (which was specifically attempting to replicate the 33 inch studio model). Plus it looks cool, and as a practice model which will be a mix of pilot, series and AMT features, what feels nice on this model is really all I'm going for. Specially as there is a good chance that once I finish this model, it'll end up packed away somewhere... unless it turns out _really_ cool looking.


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## nautilusnut (Jul 9, 2008)

Having examined the original 11 ft'er at the Smithsonian I don't recall lights there at all- (I studied it quite closely and one thing that impressed me were the running lights were not rounded off- but just acrylic rod that stuck up above the surface.) Maybe on the small model- though I think they were attachment points for hanging the model or something.
There are no such marker lights on the blueprints and I have never seen them lit. I agree there is something there- but I don't think it is a marker light. Still, you only have to please yourself and your model looks most promising.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

nautilusnut said:


> Having examined the original 11 ft'er at the Smithsonian I don't recall lights there at all- (I studied it quite closely and one thing that impressed me were the running lights were not rounded off- but just acrylic rod that stuck up above the surface.) Maybe on the small model- though I think they were attachment points for hanging the model or something.
> There are no such marker lights on the blueprints and I have never seen them lit. I agree there is something there- but I don't think it is a marker light. Still, you only have to please yourself and your model looks most promising.


The butchered model on display in the Smithsonian is in no way an accurate representation of the original filming miniature. It has been worked on by so many people who knew nothing of the original, to me it is nothing more than a "fan" interpretation of what was used in 1966! Shaw is correct, those are lights, and they are clearly on the 11 foot model! They were just never wired to flash. It is also clear from screen caps that the running lights were rounded on the original!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I've taken a handful of additional shots of the major elements assembled before I take it all apart again. I'm pretty happy with the fact that it assembles as well as it has considering the deconstruction of some of the major elements that I've done.








It's no where near being done, but I think this test assembly sort of shows where I'm going with it (when I have more time to devote to it).


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Somewhere I saw a fairly close up photo of the top of the bussards showing these tiny lights. The interesting thing is they were actually teardrop shaped.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

It isn't even near finished and already I've never seen an AMT original kit look so good. :thumbsup:

I now really want one of those old kits.

One thing I've always liked about this kit was the size. It was large enough without being too big. Mind you I recall what it looked like when I got my first one in 1979. In an eleven year old's hands that old kit felt huge. :lol:


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## nautilusnut (Jul 9, 2008)

RSN said:


> The butchered model on display in the Smithsonian is in no way an accurate representation of the original filming miniature. It has been worked on by so many people who knew nothing of the original, to me it is nothing more than a "fan" interpretation of what was used in 1966!


I disagree with the heavy paint scheme for sure, but at the 2008 Star Trek Convention in Las Vegas I stopped by a vendor's booth and noticed a photo of the restoration peeking out from under some items. I asked about it and it turned out he had been part of the restoration team. (I have NO idea as to his identity now) I asked him a few questions and he produced a large stack of photos taken during the restoration. He got really bent out of shape about fans complaining it was a "half-ass" job. Seems the Smithsonian didn't want to really spend the time or the money to re-do it, but the Star Trek exhibits had proven so popular they bit the bullet and went ahead- giving the restorers a very short time frame as it had to be ready for an event. He said they really don't care about this old prop as it's "not real" and the fans are "kooks" anyway. As I went through the photos I got a much greater appreciation of the care they DID try to give it and the work they did do. (I have dealt with the Smithsonian on a business basis and can promise you that most of the people in charge have NO IDEA what the exhibits are about or even care- it's strictly a business.) It will always be a controversy I know- but believe me, we could have gotten ALOT worse.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

nautilusnut said:


> I disagree with the heavy paint scheme for sure, but at the 2008 Star Trek Convention in Las Vegas I stopped by a vendor's booth and noticed a photo of the restoration peeking out from under some items. I asked about it and it turned out he had been part of the restoration team. (I have NO idea as to his identity now) I asked him a few questions and he produced a large stack of photos taken during the restoration. He got really bent out of shape about fans complaining it was a "half-ass" job. Seems the Smithsonian didn't want to really spend the time or the money to re-do it, but the Star Trek exhibits had proven so popular they bit the bullet and went ahead- giving the restorers a very short time frame as it had to be ready for an event. He said they really don't care about this old prop as it's "not real" and the fans are "kooks" anyway. As I went through the photos I got a much greater appreciation of the care they DID try to give it and the work they did do. (I have dealt with the Smithsonian on a business basis and can promise you that most of the people in charge have NO IDEA what the exhibits are about or even care- it's strictly a business.) It will always be a controversy I know- but believe me, we could have gotten ALOT worse.


Well, there you go! The original "fixes" showed just how little they cared about the accuracy. Funny thing, that is when the domes became red on the engines, rather than the more orange color. This became the accepted norm for the look of the ship, so much so that it was used in all in versions of the ship on TV and movies, C, D, E, NX-01. I could not have been more disappointed than when I saw it hanging overhead in 1976. I am just glad that the top of the primary hull was kept off limits to restoration, leaving the original finish standing in stark contrast to the overly made-up tart that represents a few individuals idea of how it should look!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Warped9 said:


> It isn't even near finished and already I've never seen an AMT original kit look so good. :thumbsup:


Wow... Thanks!


Okay... so while taking the model apart, I decided to put it back together with the front of the secondary hull on and took a few more images.








I'm not too worried about the overall alignment as I'll be putting together something similar to *MadCap Romanian*'s alignment setup (seen here) for when I finally glue everything together. I'm just happy that it looks as good as it does with just rubber bands holding it together at this point.


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

any updates?


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## BolianAdmiral (Feb 24, 2009)

Sweet progress.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!


I got side tracked with work. I have the secondary hull and primary hull assembled and together, and I'm making sure that I'm aligning the elements on the nacelles correctly before finally gluing them into place. The one thing that is slowing things down at this point is that I keep forgetting to give my wife the link to get me a few cans of Mr. Surfacer.

But yeah, the nacelles are a couple dozen elements (some of which are going to be hand made), and I don't want to mess up on assembling them... so I've been moving very slowly on putting them together.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I remember when I built my 18 incher and decided to accurize the nacelles. The three rectangles at the front under the bussards took me quite some time to get right. I glued 2 layers of styrene sheet together to get the right thickness then had to bent the pieces to match the curvature of the nacelle. I did this with my heatgun and a metal broom handle that luckily was the same diameter as the kit nacelle. I'd wear rubber gloves and hold the piece against the broom handle pressing it down as I heated it with the gun. Imagine having to do this 6 times! The rubber gloves didn't provide much thermal protection though and my fingers were a bit singed afterwards but the results were worth the pain IMO. These days I'd make one and cast the rest in resin!


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## Seashark (Mar 28, 2006)

The changes you've made here are almost subliminal in their subtleties, well done! (The bridge is especially important, changes the whole feel.)

I hope you don't mind if I save the pics you've posted here for future reference?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Seashark said:


> The changes you've made here are almost subliminal in their subtleties, well done! (The bridge is especially important, changes the whole feel.)


Thanks!



Seashark said:


> I hope you don't mind if I save the pics you've posted here for future reference?


Not at all... anything I post (pictures, drawings, etc.) is intended for public use. So if you find anything I've posted helpful/useful, you are most welcome to use it.



I did another test assembly (hadn't had the model together in a while), and used it to check the alignment marks I had penciled onto the nacelles (it was a good thing I had as I found some errors).








The sensor rings and dish are held in place with a rubber band (as I'll be painting them separately), and the supports aren't attached to the nacelles yet which is why they aren't exactly straight). But on the whole I think I'm getting the feel I wanted from this build.



Trekkriffic said:


> The three rectangles at the front under the bussards took me quite some time to get right.
> 
> ... Imagine having to do this 6 times!


Yeah, it is those parts (and making them uniform for all six) that is making doing the nacelles more of a chore.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Interesting how a few changes make such a big difference. It looks like an entirely different kit. :thumbsup:


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

any updates?


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Any up dates??


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, the model had been sitting assembled (held together with rubber bands) next to some of my other models until a couple days ago. I took it down and started addressing a few of the remaining seam issues (mainly where the dorsal attaches to the primary hull).

I'll most likely clear some space, put the model back together and finally glue the nacelles to their supports. I'll have to let the model sit for a number of days while the glue cures, but that should bring me up to the point where I can start priming and painting it (hopefully starting some time next week).

I'll take some photos of it when I have it arranged for gluing the nacelles and then again after I apply the primer. The model doesn't show up as well in photos all white, so I think people will get a better idea of how it looks once it isn't white any more.

Sorry for the lack of updates, I had gotten really busy over the summer and had to put aside my personal projects until I could build in some free time for them.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Understood... just been following this.

Life issues come first then the hobby.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Shaw said:


> I'll have to let the model sit for a number of days while the glue cures, but that should bring me up to the point where I can start priming and painting it (hopefully starting some time next week).


I find that taking a great deal of time with frequent breaks increases the likelihood of producing a finished product that you won't feel needs _even more work_ after it's done. :thumbsup:


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I forgot that I hadn't finished cleaning up the supports (which I need to do before re-attaching them to the nacelles), but I did set up everything to make sure I was getting the alignment the way I wanted. I figured I'd share a couple shots of that for now.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Nice paper weight on the saucer section!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Yeah, what is that, an ID4 saucer?


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## Husker Adama (Sep 1, 2011)

a weight weight


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Ah.

Isn't that kind of overkill?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

It was handy, so i grabbed it. The interior is re-enforced, so I wasn't worried about it damaging the model.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Small update...

Here is the model standing on it's own after gluing the supports back onto the nacelles.








I'm still going to let the model sit for a few more days before doing anything else to it, but it looks like everything is working out the way I wanted it to at this point.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Hard to say why, but there is something about this model that I like better than the Revell Germany kit. Also, nice work on getting the nacelles aligned right. :thumbsup:


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

That looks like a nice solid build and I like the improvements you made as well. Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing more.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Shaw said:


> Small update...
> 
> Here is the model standing on it's own after gluing the supports back onto the nacelles.
> 
> ...


WOW, beautiful work so far! You are really making this AMT kit look a whole lot better. 

I plan on tackling one of these Round 2 re-issues soon and will use this thread for some reference.


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## BolianAdmiral (Feb 24, 2009)

As always, absolutely beautiful.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys!

I'm double checking to make sure I have finished everything I wanted to do before I start in on the priming/painting part. I know I have a handful of pieces to add to the nacelles still, but I'm pretty sure that the primary and secondary hulls are ready to go.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

I know I'm waiting breathlessly for the R2 1/350, but seeing what you've done here makes me want to do one of the old AMTs again just for the hell of it.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Nice to see you back again, Mr. Shaw.

Beautiful work on your build of the old kit.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Any updates?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Had some time this weekend so I dusted off the model and started in on applying primer and finishing the nacelle details. Here is where I'm at currently...








Hopefully I'll finish adding the details to the nacelles tonight and primer them tomorrow. I also need to address a couple spots on the primary/secondary hulls now that I can see the flaws on the surface.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Now that you have it in primer it's really coming together nicely! Excellent work so far.


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## clactonite (Dec 16, 2006)

Looking good Shaw, looking very sharp indeed!

Clactonite


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys!

Well, now that the model is gray I can see a bunch of areas that need touching up. The white plastic that Round 2 used on this model made it hard to see surface details and the primer has pulled forward rough spots I need to address before I start thinking about starting up on the painting of the model.

Still, it seems to be turning out along the lines of what I was hoping for, so I'm more confident in my progress than I was before I started applying the primer.

Here are some more shots of the model with most of the major pieces assembled (but not glued)...


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## Richard38 (Apr 16, 2002)

Shaw,

She is looking sweet and sexy! A lot of the angles you shot match up with the FX shots very well!

A very nice job so far, I cant wait to see her in paint and decals 

Richard


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

That is looking great! Well done.


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

fantastic work.I will refer back to this when I tackle my own build.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Lookin' real good, *Shaw*! :thumbsup:


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

I'm putting together a shopping list for paints. The main thing that'll be different from my previous models is going to be the nacelle domes. I'm looking at leaving them essentially just the white plastic, hit with a touch of transparent orange, then a pearl essence clear coat. That is why the domes aren't primed like the rest of the model at this point.

Hopefully it'll be a nice effect.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Shaw said:


> Thanks for the encouragement guys!
> 
> I'm putting together a shopping list for paints. The main thing that'll be different from my previous models is going to be the nacelle domes. I'm looking at leaving them essentially just the white plastic, hit with a touch of transparent orange, then a pearl essence clear coat. That is why the domes aren't primed like the rest of the model at this point.
> 
> Hopefully it'll be a nice effect.


Interesting idea. Are you going to try and simulate the spoked effect somehow?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Just a note: The aft caps are from the first pilot, so wouldn't that indicate brick red Bussards with spikes on the front of the nacelles?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Trekkriffic said:


> Interesting idea. Are you going to try and simulate the spoked effect somehow?


At one point I was considering doing a spoke simulation over white domes using an alternating gloss/flat coat to create the effect, then going over that with pearl essence clear... but I wasn't sure if the spoke pattern would still be visible after the pearl essence was applied. I still like the idea of that because I wanted a minimalistic look to the domes.

This is sort of what I thought the white with spokes might have turned out like...











Captain April said:


> Just a note: The aft caps are from the first pilot, so wouldn't that indicate brick red Bussards with spikes on the front of the nacelles?


Because this is a practice build, and not of the Enterprise, but instead the Republic, I decided it would be a _mix-n-match_ of my favorite elements. Plus the decals for the Republic are using the series type face, so I figure this model would represent a starship that got it's SLEP upgrade during budget cuts (with some things upgraded, but others, like the rear nacelle caps and the deflector dish, left unchanged).

I am still considering adding a element to the center of the domes that would look like a plug covering the opening where the spikes had been before being removed.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Last week I started addressing some of the spots that needed attention and this week I re-scribed the rings on the underside of the primary hull and added the triangle features. I also started gluing into place marker lights (though quite a few in the following images are just set in place) and applying primer again.

Here is where I'm at currently...








I'm hoping to get started painting by the first week in July, but after that the next open block of time I'll have isn't until August.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I'm almost done modifying the control reactor loops and impulse engines. On the control reactor loops I've widened the front plate and I'm going to shorten the front attachment point so that it rests on the surface of the nacelles (the parts originally stuck out too far). For the impulse engines, I removed the raised features on the end (I'll be using the decals for those details) and added a fabric pattern to the sides of the housing to replicate the impulse engine part from the '66 model (which I liked).

I've also started mapping out how I plan on painting the overall model. The overall color will be gull gray (as usual for me). The leading edge of the dorsal, underside of the front of the nacelles, walls of the nacelles trenches, the turbo lift and most of the impulse engine housing will be light sea gray. And the bottom of the trenches, the flux chillers, the rear end caps, spine on the top of the primary hull and sides of the impulse engine housing will be aggressor gray. All these colors have about the same hue (which is why they work well together, along with camouflage gray), and they're spaced about 10% apart in brightness (aggressor gray is about 60%, light sea gray is about 70%, gull gray is about 80% and camouflage gray is about 90%).

Here is a modified version of an earlier image testing the areas to be painted (of those parts that are on the model so far)...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

It should be very interesting to see this in a side-by-side with a (more or less) straight build of an old AMT 18" kit.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Shaw said:


> I'm almost done modifying the control reactor loops and impulse engines. On the control reactor loops I've widened the front plate and I'm going to shorten the front attachment point so that it rests on the surface of the nacelles (the parts originally stuck out too far). For the impulse engines, I removed the raised features on the end (I'll be using the decals for those details) and added a fabric pattern to the sides of the housing to replicate the impulse engine part from the '66 model (which I liked).
> 
> I've also started mapping out how I plan on painting the overall model. The overall color will be gull gray (as usual for me). The leading edge of the dorsal, underside of the front of the nacelles, walls of the nacelles trenches, the turbo lift and most of the impulse engine housing will be light sea gray. And the bottom of the trenches, the flux chillers, the rear end caps, spine on the top of the primary hull and sides of the impulse engine housing will be aggressor gray. All these colors have about the same hue (which is why they work well together, along with camouflage gray), and they're spaced about 10% apart in brightness (aggressor gray is about 60%, light sea gray is about 70%, gull gray is about 80% and camouflage gray is about 90%).
> 
> Here is a modified version of an earlier image testing the areas to be painted (of those parts that are on the model so far)...


I really think this build looks fantastic so far! Are those colors you specified Tamiya colors or Model Master? They do work well together!


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Answered my own question...Testors.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I modified the control reactor loops and impulse engines. Here is how they look right now (the impulse engine housing is not actually glued on yet)...








The only other thing of note is that I'd decided to use the Round 2 dome stand that they sell at my local hobby store. Oddly enough, it looks like it is about the same size (proportionally) to the model as the stand that will be included in the up coming 1/350 kit.

I'm hoping to get a little further in finishing up some clean up on the nacelles tonight and then give them a final primer coat. That will leave just the deflector rings to finish up before I can start in on painting the model itself. Of course part of the problem with finishing up the primer is that I really like how the models look at that stage... so I have to make sure to move past it quickly.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Very nice work, how did you go about modifying the impulse engine?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I masked off the areas I wanted untouched, then brushed on a thin layer of model glue over the exposed surface, laid out gauze on the surface, then brushed over that with a thinned coating of model glue. Once it had set, I trimmed back the gauze to the edges of the exposed areas and removed the masking.

This part of the 11 foot model makes it feel like a working spaceship, it looks like a fix/addition done for utility rather than for esthetics. And what I'm hoping for with this model is a starship that looks like improvements were made to it on a budget, rather than (like the Enterprise) being given a full set of upgrades over time. That is the idea behind mixing and matching elements from the two pilot and production versions of the original models.

The texturing actually looks better on the underside of the impulse engine housing, so I'll have to include a close up shot from that angle in the next set of images.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Very innovative and interesting. You really think outside the box.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

What are you naming this ship again?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

kdaracal said:


> Very innovative and interesting. You really think outside the box.


Thanks!



Captain April said:


> What are you naming this ship again?


It's going to be the Republic (NCC-1371). I figure that with a low number (like the Constellation) she can still have AMT features mixed in with various studio model elements. Plus the Republic decals with the kit are using the production font style anyways.

And it was a good excuse for trying out a bunch of ideas on how to make certain elements (from each of the incarnations) without having to build multiple models... specially considering how long it is taking me to build this one.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Yeah, I thought it was the Republic.

Being a training vessel, it makes some sense to have a mix of old and new technology, since the cadet crew wouldn't necessarily know what kind of ship they'd be assigned to, so best to get as broad a knowledge base as possible, even if the Republic herself never goes any further than the Oort cloud.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Basically... another round of baby pictures.

This is mainly a few small touch-ups and another coat of primer (on the nacelles), so it most likely doesn't look all that different.








I really need to get around to finishing the deflector rings, but they are going to be painted separately and will be just about the last thing glued to the model.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I miss my AMT E.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Any plans to do a straight build of an early version kit, for a side-by-side?


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Goes to show that with a bit of work there's still a lot to like about that old kit.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Man, she looks great!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys!



Captain April said:


> Any plans to do a straight build of an early version kit, for a side-by-side?


Yep... I have my 1966 AMT kit standing by. As soon as I finish with my plans of that model (meaning, as soon as I know I wouldn't need to refer back to any of the model's parts), I plan on starting in on it.

It'll be essentially a stock build of the first run of the first model kit of the Enterprise... with some minor changes (which shouldn't effect the vintage look of the model when I'm done). The biggest major fix will be in how the nacelle supports enter the secondary hull (the original holes in the secondary hull are positioned incorrectly which is why the model looks like it sags). How the dorsal connects to the primary hull also has issues, but I think fixing the nacelle alignment will off set that problem. Other changes will include replacing the original light bulbs with LEDs, replacing the battery powered aspects with an external power supply, replacement of all the raised windows with meticulously recreated window decals, replacing the original decals with recreated (authentic) versions, and changing how the model connects/attaches to the stand.

I'm considering filling the dimples on the underside of the primary hull, specially now that I've come up with a way to do it while preserving the original raised rings (which the dimples intersect).

Because this model cost me about as much as Round 2 is planning on selling the 1/350 kit for, I've been very careful in pre-planning this build (which is part of the reason that the model covered in this thread is a practice model, it is a warm up for the 1966 kit). In fact, after I finished with the recreated decals and window decals, I had JT Graphics send me three copies of the new decal sheet... just in case I screw up.

The only thing I haven't started getting together yet is the replacement electronics, but even if everything proceeded smoothly from here on, I don't think I would start that build until November or December.

But yeah, I'm hoping that the final product will be an authentic/vintage looking build of the 1966 kit. 



I realized that I forgot to include images of the model on it's stand... which is the generic Round 2 stand base with a slightly longer rod.








It is simple but nice looking, and I didn't want to go through the same amount of effort as I had on my last Enterprise build. I'll most likely do the same thing for my Klingon Battlecruiser when I get around to finishing it up.


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Beautifully done build!

Forgive me for asking a dumb question, but earlier in this thread, you said you cut off the pylons from the nacelles? I had no idea they were inaccurately attached. Where do you reattach them (more forward? backward? by how much?)


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Carl_G said:


> Beautifully done build!


Thanks!



Carl_G said:


> Forgive me for asking a dumb question, but earlier in this thread, you said you cut off the pylons from the nacelles? I had no idea they were inaccurately attached. Where do you reattach them (more forward? backward? by how much?)


It isn't a dumb question... I actually think I glossed over this part in this thread.

This is one of the issues with both the 18 and 22 inch TOS Enterprise models that I think really effects the _feel_ of the model. The way the models are built, the center line of the support pylon intersects the center of the nacelle. On the studio models (both the 11 foot and 33 inch) they connect towards the underside of the nacelles. This pulls the nacelles closer together and the geometry of the model changes.

The change is subtle but effective. I don't think anyone looking at my models (this is the third time I've made this alteration) notices that the change was made, but the change helps to invoke the feel of the original studio models more than the original configuration.








As I said, this is my third time making the change, and I've gotten pretty comfortable with the process. Because the nacelles need to remain at the same height level, and because the new attachment point is at a different angle, the tops of the supports need to be cut.








Once the cut is made and I've filled in the original attachment point hole in the nacelle, I add two guide wires at the new attachment point on the nacelles so I can test the height/alignment of the new configuration before gluing the parts together. Examples of the guide wires can be seen here (for this model) and here (for my last 22 inch build).

The end result is quite nice (and why I'd most likely do this to any future 18 or 22 inch builds), even after the rubber bands are removed and the model is left to stand on it's own. So far the process is pretty much working out exactly the same as it had with my last Enterprise model, which I was quite happy with.


_Click to enlarge_​


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## Gemini1999 (Sep 25, 2008)

All of a sudden, I have this strange urge to build an AMT/Round 2 Enterprise kit... The last time I built one was back in 1973! This thread has been very illuminating and inspiring. Thanks for sharing your experience and tips. Your "practice" build came out terrific!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Amazing how those subtle little adjustments you made to the nacelle pylon attachment points and the B-C deck height made such a big impact in making this model look more like the studio model. As always, well done!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Outstanding! What did you use for the lower and upper sensor domes? The lower looks bigger than what comes with the aftermarket piece. I also like that about it and would like to do the same on my build.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks for the encouragement guys!




Maritain said:


> Outstanding! What did you use for the lower and upper sensor domes? The lower looks bigger than what comes with the aftermarket piece. I also like that about it and would like to do the same on my build.


I don't think I covered this that well either... At the same time I cut off and lowered the bridge/B/C deck structure, I cut off the end of the lower cone. I then glued it back on on the inside of the cone and sanded it to make a smooth plateau that was large enough for the replacement lower sensor platform from _Federation Models/Accurate Parts_.

The large bridge dome is actually from the 22 inch kit, sanded down to fit this model. I really liked the look of it, but when the lower sensor platform arrived, the dome of the part seemed really small compared with the dome on the bridge. As it turned out, the pack of google eyes I bought to make the navigation dome on the end of the secondary hull also included some pretty large eyes. I cut the back off of one of the bigger ones and it fit nicely over the lower sensor dome giving me a large dome that felt balanced with the dome on the bridge.

Right now that is all taped together. The replacement dome is taped (using double sided tape) to the sensor platform, and the sensor platform is also taped (using double sided tape) to the bottom of the primary hull. Where the platform sits on the primary hull is a small hole I need for the compass to use. When I don't need to use the compass on the underside any more, I'll glue all of the parts together.

While I think the dome on the _Federation Models/Accurate Parts_' piece is too small to be accurate with the studio model, I'm pretty sure that what I replaced it with is also too big (as I said, I wanted to balance it with the big upper dome). Had I replaced the bridge/B/C deck structure with something more studio accurate, I would have used a slightly smaller replacement dome.


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Thanks for the info! Not sure if I'm brave enough to attempt some pylon slicing, but when I get around to my Enterprise kit, I'll see how I feel.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

This is why I punted and declared the AMT kit to be of an older class, as exemplified by the Constellation. That way, I can build 'em straight out of the box and not feel like I'm being negligent by not "accurizing" them; in my book, they're screen accurate already.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I should be buying paint in a couple days, and I'll most likely start in on the nacelles first.

I've been playing around with weathering ideas and adding random gridlines/paneling. I tried out the idea for the gridlines/paneling on my Constellation model (part of the reason I keep that model around is to try things like this out on it first).








That was done using white pencil, which disappears quite nicely on the Gull Gray paint I used. I figure I'll add gridlines/paneling to some odd spots (nothing completely covering any of the major surface areas) and some very mild weathering, and I should end up with a nice look. Odds are that neither will show up that well in photos when I'm done.

And one last shot of the model as it stands currently (having survived our moving apartments last week).


_Click to enlarge_​


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Oops... knew I was forgetting something.










That should be the last of the modifications I had planned on making. I hadn't put it on earlier because I didn't want the rubber band holding the deflector rings in place to damage it. And as I was disassembling the model to get the parts ready for painting I realized I had forgotten it.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

For someone who described himself as not much of a model builder, you sure are kicking several asses around here.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!

But I still feel I have a lot to learn.

Okay, pushed the poor Constellation back into _guinea pig_ mode for another test... this time weathering.










So this is about what I was planning on for the Republic. I'm just not sure if it isn't too heavy handed. The colors used above are brown and green.

I'll have to go back and look at it again in a couple days to get a better impression of how it looks (I really can't tell about stuff until I've had a chance to step back from it for a while).


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Minor light-hearted nitpick time: The Constellation didn't have that teardrop shaped B/C superstructure. Needs to be a straight, unaltered pre-75 build.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Captain April said:


> Minor light-hearted nitpick time: The Constellation didn't have that teardrop shaped B/C superstructure. Needs to be a straight, unaltered pre-75 build.


C'mon. It's eating you up, ain't it? :lol:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Hey, it's his _Constellation_ model. He can configure it any way he wants it. I don't think that it was ever intended to be "screen accurate". 

Besides, that looks like a 22-incher.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Here is another case of interpretation. The AMT kit was used as a quick-and-dirty substitute for a sister ship of the _Enterprise_ because it would have been impossible to either redo the markings and "damage" the 11 footer to stand in as the Constellation (and then restore it) or to make up a truly accurate miniature from scratch---simply not enough time and money. Today you could just cgi it.

That being the case I seriously doubt MJ and the f/x guys thought of this as a wholly separate class of ship with its own distinctive features. It was just an easy stand-in for a ship like the _Enterprise._ Now we've been agonizing over it for decades while the TOS-R folks just used a cgi model identical to the _Enterprise_ except for name and registry. And we know some folks cried foul over that.

So who is to really say what the _Constellation_ should look like? For myself I would have preferred the ship looking like an older sister (or a whole other design) to somewhat rationalize that lower registry number. Still we were given very few starship registries in TOS. Everything else is pure speculation including the wall chart seen in "Courtmartial."


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

The Constellation has always been a model to test things on. When I started my first attempt at a two-thirds replica of the 33 inch Enterprise, I bought two of the 22 inch cutaway kits in case I screwed up while making the modifications. After I was satisfied with the changes to the parts (but before I had started in on scratch building the dorsal and primary hull), I realized that I should get some practice painting and decalling (as it had been about 13 years since my previous model build). So I threw together the leftovers and named it the Constellation.

Since then she had been pulled apart a number of times to try out ideas before I implemented them on a primary build model.

So yeah, it was never meant to be an accurate Constellation (or even a nicely finished model), it is just a test article to try things out on (which is also the only reason images of it even show up on the web).

Besides, Jay Chladek’s built one of the best representations of the Constellation I've ever seen (using the decal graphics from my 1966 AMT model project). I'd have a hard time matching his build and most likely wouldn't even try.


So what do you guys think of the weathering?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Actually, I emailed Mike Okuda about this one, before it set to air, and offered up my own AMT model to scan for the episode. As it was, they'd already gone past that point. He did say, however, that he would've liked to have made the Constellation look more like the AMT kit, but time and budget just weren't there for it, so they just altered the Enterprise CGI model they had.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

First full day of painting!










I know some of you thought this day would never come (honestly, I had my doubts too).


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

:thumbsup:


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Some of the smaller parts are done (and will be placed on the model when it is fully painted). I wanted to see how the two-toned impulse engine turned out, so I temporarily attached it to the primary hull (which is a bit of a mess right now, but I've been working on the nacelles).










It looks about how I expected, though I think it'll work better once the model is finished.


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

How did you make the missing dome above the shuttlebay?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Carl_G said:


> How did you make the missing dome above the shuttlebay?


I bought a pack of "google eyes" from my local hobby store. I got a ton of them in a number of different sizes, and even used one of them to replace the lower sensor dome (the one molded into the sensor dome platform I bought felt too small to me).


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## Carl_G (Jun 30, 2012)

Oh, nicely done -- I never would have thought to try that!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Google-eyes! I'm bug-eyed over that! Awesome!:thumbsup:


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Wish I could take credit for the idea, but it was Thomas Sasser who came up with it. But yeah, it works great! :thumbsup:


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Finished up the major aspects of painting. I'll let the model sit for a few days before I start in on assembling and decals.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Is this a pre-75 version or one of the more recent issues?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Captain April said:


> Is this a pre-75 version or one of the more recent issues?


This is the 2008 Round 2 reissue (the small box version without the grid lines and with the enlarged PL decal sheet). It's the original white plastic version (not the blue plastic or the glow-in-the-dark version). I'm glad I got this version because it sounds like the later versions had some issues with the strength of the plastic... mine has been nice and solid.

Actually, the box art on this version is so nice (and authentic) that I'm considering incorporating it into a display base for my 1966 model (whose box is showing it's age).


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Okay, it is dry enough for a quick test assembly (pretty much just putting the nacelles in place for now).


_click to enlarge_​


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Just beautiful!


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## cbear (Aug 15, 2000)

Beautiful work, Sir! How did you lower the B/C deck? Did you remove it entirely and re-attach it or just chop it and re-contour?
Chuck


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys!



cbear said:


> How did you lower the B/C deck? Did you remove it entirely and re-attach it or just chop it and re-contour?


Yeah, I should have documented this aspect better.

What I did was masked the surface of the primary hull right up to the edge of the B/C deck structure, mainly so the surface wouldn't get damaged when I sawed the thing off. Once that piece was removed, the mask provided a perfect outline of the shape of the piece, and I opened up the hole right to the edge of the mask. This meant that the piece could now be put back, sliding nicely into the new hole. I dropped it in, eyeballing it to get it where I liked it, and then glued it back into place. I then filled what little gap remained.

This is a before and after shot...








Similarly, I cut the bottom of the primary hull off. I then glued that piece back on on the inside, and sanded/reshaped the cone to get a nice wide plateau for the lower sensor dome platform.

This shot (bottom image) is right after I glued the piece back on, but before I had done any sanding/reshaping (because I hadn't filled in the dimples yet).








The lower primary hull modification was also slowed by the fact that I was waiting on the sensor platform. Until I had the part in hand, I didn't know the size of it, or how wide the plateau would need to be.

It is odd, but those two changes (which used most of the models original plastic and required very little filling) really changed the feel/character of the kit's primary hull.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I like what you did with the B-C deck a lot. Did you also give any thought to reshaping the rear so it has a more tapered (pointier?) look like the 11 footer?


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Shaw said:


> I bought a pack of "google eyes" from my local hobby store. I got a ton of them in a number of different sizes, and even used one of them to replace the lower sensor dome (the one molded into the sensor dome platform I bought felt too small to me).


Excellent work on your Enterprise. Thanks for jogging my memory about these, they are just what I needed for the domes on the underside of my Space:1999 Hawk.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Trekkriffic said:


> I like what you did with the B-C deck a lot.


Thanks!



> Did you also give any thought to reshaping the rear so it has a more tapered (pointier?) look like the 11 footer?


No, mainly because by the time I started in on changing the existing part I would have put more effort into it than if I had started from scratch (which was what I had done on my last three Enterprise models, including my last attempt at the 18 inch kit back in 1994).

Plus I was wondering if I could get a reasonable model with as few changes/replacements as possible. And I now realize that some of the parts I replaced with third party parts I could have done without. If I was going to do this build over again, I'd only buy a replacement deflector dish. 

I'd like to think that most of what I did here could be done by anyone in this forum (though I understand if no one else attempts the nacelle repositioning). And repositioning the B/C deck seems like an easy enough modification that produces nice results (I'm just sorry I glossed over how I did that modification).

But the wider back end of the B/C deck had pushed me to make a change in the decals I'm going to use there. The rectangles on the decal sheet that came with the kit are quite narrow, which makes the part seem wider than it actually is. Fortunately I have some spare decals from PNT (intended for the 22 inch model) that work much better with the shape.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Grid/panel lines and weathering have been added, and I've started in on putting a number of coats of gloss on the model.

For the panel lines on the secondary hull, I had noticed that some of Jefferies panel lines on the Phase II Enterprise almost lined up with the numbers on the TOS Enterprise, so I used them as a starting point for where to put some of the lines. When I add the decals later, I'll make sure that the numbers and markers above them line up with the panel lines I drew.

At any rate, here is how the model looks after the first coat of gloss...


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Not much progress to show… another test assembly (but I'm now limiting these to just putting on the nacelles)…


_Click to enlarge_​


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Started in on applying decals this evening...








I haven't glued the nacelles on yet, they are just sitting in place in these images.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

I spent most of my time on the model today trimming the decals because I don't like the large reflective areas that some times show up (specially on the top of the primary hull). And I tried to get some images of the green weathering, but I think my camera isn't differentiating the green in the paint from the green weathering. It is pretty clear in person, but seems to nearly vanish in photos.

Anyways... a few more shots (the lower sensor platform has been added, and I put the deflector assembly in place for the first image but it'll be the last piece glued on to protect the copper paint).


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

A little more progress. I've been tied up on other (work) projects and have to split my spare time between my Trek pursuits and training (and training is a little more important right now).

I started in on the upper primary hull decals. As I had trimmed each of the registry numbers down to their edges and the numbers/letters represent the same size characters as NCC-1701, I tried to use the placement from the 11 foot model (within reason, as with a lot of this model, I actually sorta _eyeballed_ the placement once I had the end characters where I wanted them).


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Wow! Looking great!!!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!

I had a little time overnight so I applied a few more decals...








It is slowly getting finished up.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I love following your work on this ship design, Shaw. With the 350 now imminent, I expect you have some plans for that too!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Man that looks great, I like the white pencil marks as well, the detail is very nicely stated.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks guys!



Model Man said:


> With the 350 now imminent, I expect you have some plans for that too!


Well, at the painfully slow rate at which I finish models, it is sometimes hard to see beyond just finishing what I'm working on.



Maritain said:


> Man that looks great, I like the white pencil marks as well, the detail is very nicely stated.


Yeah, I lucked out in that it turned out like I thought it might. Considering that everyone else seemed to do grid/panel lines in a color darker than the base color, there were times when I was second guessing myself on this choice.



Okay, more images of a model that isn't even finished! But I did make a little progress, though not as much as I should have in three days. I had some previous commitments (wife) that took precedence.








Remember, it is this stage of the model (painting, weathering and applying decals) that I needed practice on and is why I'm doing this model. Hopefully I'll learn from my mistakes here and do a much better job on my 1966 AMT Enterprise (which is too expensive and rare to mess up on).


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

It's amazing what a difference a few small fixes make. Wow!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!

I'm sort of amazed at the number people that have been viewing this thread. Besides this being a Round 2 _repop_ of the AMT short box kit, we're on the eve of the release of the 1/350 kit. I really wouldn't have expected that many people to waste their time looking at another build of this model with the new one on it's way.

Well, I was able to put a little more time in on it last night...


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Shaw said:


> I'm sort of amazed at the number people that have been viewing this thread. Besides this being a Round 2 _repop_ of the AMT short box kit, we're on the eve of the release of the 1/350 kit. I really wouldn't have expected that many people to waste their time looking at another build of this model with the new one on it's way.
> 
> Well, I was able to put a little more time in on it last night...
> 
> [


It's _Star Trek_ and _Enterprise_ related. Go figure, eh?


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

WOW! Looks finished now! Great job!

I like your port side loading/docking hatch and the other decal choices.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> I like your port side loading/docking hatch and the other decal choices.


Yep, a similar detail I want to add to my 1/350 _E._


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Shaw said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I'm sort of amazed at the number people that have been viewing this thread. Besides this being a Round 2 _repop_ of the AMT short box kit, we're on the eve of the release of the 1/350 kit. I really wouldn't have expected that many people to waste their time looking at another build of this model with the new one on it's way.


Hey, there's just something about that ship that just fires up the enthusiasm.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Before looking at these images... please note that the model isn't done yet, these are just some test shots. I still need to apply some decals, a number of gloss coats, and a number of flat coats... plus it isn't even glued together yet.

I was just curious to see how it would look under these conditions and thought I'd share the results.















​


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## Steve Mavronis (Oct 14, 2001)

Man you make that kit look nice! For a minute I took a double-take and almost thought it was the 33"


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Thanks!

I forgot to mention that I did finally paint the nacelle domes...








Like the grid/panel lines, I wanted the effect to be very subtle (not always showing up even though they are there). I was happy when they didn't stand out too much after I painted them.


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

Interesting seeing them painted white. It's certainly a different effect.


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

She sure is pretty!


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

*- BABY PICTURES WARNING -*​
Just FYI... there has been no real change/progress to the model, these are just shots taken to get more familiar with my camera. Please feel free to skip this post.















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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Nice paint job.... on the first "baby pic" there is what looks like a red square box on the saucer section... what is your source on this?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

starmanmm said:


> Nice paint job.... on the first "baby pic" there is what looks like a red square box on the saucer section... what is your source on this?


I believe from other posts that is a docking port.


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Yep.

Well... so originally the idea was to show a starship that had been fully modernized back in the first pilot era and then got sporadic upgrades through to the series era. I sorta figured why stop there, so the port side of the saucer hatch is a nod to the TMP (and Everheart) design and there is a hatch on the port side of the secondary hull that corresponds to a hatch on the Phase II plans (though not the same shape, just similar location).

​
So the thought was what might be changed (like elements of the engines) for efficiency or compatibility, and what things might have been left in place (sort of an _if it ain't broke, don't fix it_ approach). I'm not sure I'd go as far as to say this was supposed to be strictly a training vessel, but if the Enterprise had been refit with the best technology for her new role as an exploration vessel out on the frontier of Federation space in TOS, then maybe the Republic would be an example of a vessel that patrolled the more established parts of the Federation (where putting the most expensive technology on an older vessel might not have the same return on investment).

I mean it isn't like there would be any chance of the Republic being caught in the Galactic Barrier...

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... where the pilot versions of the starships were out of their depth, but the series versions were capable of weathering such conditions.

Of course, in the end, this was just a practice model and the real motivations behind most of what I did was to see if the different modifications worked well together esthetically and made the venerable 18" model feel like it could fit into the TOS universe along side the original studio models.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Great build. Very impressive, for a "practice" build...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Looks more like the Badlands, but okay....


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

No, I haven't forgotten this model...








... its just sitting around (unfinished) waiting for me to get back to it.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

What's left to be done?


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## Shaw (Jan 9, 2005)

Well, I haven't applied the red stripes on the bottom of the primary hull yet or the approach lights below the hangar doors. After that I have to apply some clear coats and glue the deflector mount to the model.

It isn't a lot, and if you're not looking for what isn't finished, she looks done. But those few items do still need to be addressed before I take the final series of photos.


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

Leave the domes white. It looks perfect!


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