# NEW from PARAGRAFIX: TOS Bridge Display Screens



## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Thanks to Will "TOS Graphics" Smith, I am pleased to release a new photoetch/backlight film set for the AMT Bridge kit. Each display screen is the proper size and shape and has Will's dead on accurate graphics. Photoetch is included to help block light leaks.

I expect to ship this on or about July 30 and it will have a suggested retail price of $38.95.

More Info and Preordering


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

Nice - just in time for me as I finished my 1/350 Enterprise, and the bridge is up next. Will you be offering a combo deal to get this and the other kit you make for the bridge?


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Glad you did! The Space Outfitter ones, or who ever, aren't very good so this will be very welcome! I'll be up for two sets.

Carl-


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Jim Dearden said:


> I've got a question about the TOS screens photoetch. Is this for the new kit, or just the old?
> 
> The reason I'm asking is that the sample you showed doesn't quite match the new kit. Your fret shows 7 of the square windows, and the instructions show Navigation as having one wide screen, while the kit shows navigation as having two of the smaller square screens.
> 
> ...


It's for either. Since you need to remove at least the inner-most (woefully inaccurate) raised frames you can ignore how many of each type of display the kit uses. This set will provide each station with the correct type and size of display.

Also, if you want you can remove the outer-most frames and use the templates to delineate where to cut out the larger, recessed areas that the displays should fit into. (This will necessitate supplying your own sheet plastic to create the recessed areas.)

One other thing: I use a rather old printer that's specifically made for printing these backlight films. This means that I get extremely good color saturation and opaque blacks. You may have seen other backlight films where the light shows through the black and/or it looks "stripey" - this won't happen with mine.


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## Jim Dearden (Aug 5, 2004)

Paulbo said:


> It's for either. Since you need to remove at least the inner-most (woefully inaccurate) raised frames you can ignore how many of each type of display the kit uses. This set will provide each station with the correct type and size of display.
> 
> Also, if you want you can remove the outer-most frames and use the templates to delineate where to cut out the larger, recessed areas that the displays should fit into. (This will necessitate supplying your own sheet plastic to create the recessed areas.)
> 
> One other thing: I use a rather old printer that's specifically made for printing these backlight films. This means that I get extremely good color saturation and opaque blacks. You may have seen other backlight films where the light shows through the black and/or it looks "stripey" - this won't happen with mine.


Dang, I've already cut out the 2 inaccurate windows in the Nav station. Looks like I have to decide whether to go with the inacurate kit windows, or replace everything inside the outer frame... A challenge either way for me!

Jim


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

A possible fix would be to graft new plastic into where you cut out and remove then frames. Getting it perfectly smooth will likely be a PITA, though. (I just measured and the plastic's 0.05" thick there.)


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

:woohoo:


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## feek61 (Aug 26, 2006)

It was great working with Paul on this. He did ALL of the work and I simply sent him some files. Honestly this is an upgrade that is essential for an accurate bridge model. Even though I did the decals that come with the Round 2 kit; Round 2 was limited by the original molds so the screen sizes are not accurate. This set will truly give you for the first time an accurate TOS bridge in all of its glory. Can't wait to star on mine!!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Very nice! I plan to get a set of these when I can.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Feek and I are in the mutual admiration society - I say that all *I* did was use his artwork as my guide to layout the brass parts and backlight films. 

If people are careful (this is NOT a set for the faint of heart or shaky of hand) and cut out larger panels to recess the displays, this will really help create the illusion of the real set.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I have the etch in hand and the backlight films are monopolizing the time on my film printer. All that's left is to complete the instructions which I anticipate finishing up by Friday. So ...

I should begin shipping on Monday or Tuesday of next week.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Wow! This is one of those products that is exactly what I was looking for. You read my mind!


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I started shipping this set yesterday but I'm leaving it on Preorder status until I return from Jerseyfest on Tuesday.


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## sjohn385 (Dec 19, 2004)

Just got them today. They are fantastic, great job Paul


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Ooo - save me a set at JFest!


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## sjohn385 (Dec 19, 2004)

Just started the bridge kit. This is the science station using the photoetch. Really give this part a new look.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

That is a serious difference!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

All I know is I'm getting one of these sets!


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Wow, that's beautiful. Looks like a must-have.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Excellent additional scratchbuilding for the library computer, Stephen.


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## sjohn385 (Dec 19, 2004)

Thanks Paul. I was curious why the computer was not included in the photoetch set. Not complaining..just curious


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I know it seems like a small addition, but adding the computer would have reduced the yield per master sheet by 1/3 (I was at the limit to get the number of repeats as it was). That would have added another $10 to the street price of the set.

I had the same problem with the backlight films - I was able to squeeze the full set onto half a letter-size sheet of paper, but any additional items would have doubled the cost of the films.


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Paul:

This may seem like a odd question. Can you tell me if the console set, for 
the bridge, can with stand a 375 F bake for 30 min without warping (pun intended). Being brass I think it should.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

That DOES seem like an odd question, yes.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I would not guarantee it it. That temperature's not hot enough to anneal the parts, but there might be some buckling due to temperature variations as it's heating up. (Think about a cookie sheet that you hear go "ping" a few minutes after you put it in the oven and how it's then no longer flat.)

Why are you looking to bake the pieces?


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

I found a product that I think will fill the voids where the buttons 
should be. It keeps its shape so the idea is once the main void is filled and 
set, go over it again to create the buttons. Once its baked, its suppose to 
be crystal clear. Then its just a matter of hitting them with various Tamiya,
transparent colours.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Why not just paint some Micro Krystal Klear from the back side to fill the holes, then when dry just place a drop from the end of a pin to the front to make the raised button? You can even tint the MKK with food coloring to make the colored ones. This way you can paint the entire console assemblies and not have to mask 8,154,246 separate buttons.


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

> This way you can paint the entire console assemblies and not have to mask 8,154,246 separate buttons.


Where's the fun in that I was trying to come up with something that would
stand up, with out doing the clear resin thing. How resilient is MKK. Can it be 
sanded to make it opaque.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Why would you want it opaque? You just said you wanted it clear.


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## sjohn385 (Dec 19, 2004)

or you could try either dental acrylic or nail acrylic to fill the holes. I've heard they both harden opaque. Check out this build for info on nail acrylic http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=420054


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Paulbo said:


> Why would you want it opaque? You just said you wanted it clear.


just thinking of sanding the bottom to diffuse light. The top exposed, console
portion, I'd want it to be clear. Sorry if I wasn't clear before.

Maybe dental acrylic is the way to go, just liked the idea of the baked stuff staying put, without having to block in the shape on the console surface.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

OK, so you don't want opaque (i.e. can't see through) you want frosted. You can just hit the back side with clear dull.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

The key word here is "translucent".


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## Jim Dearden (Aug 5, 2004)

Trek Ace said:


> The key word here is "translucent".


Ah, now I "clearly" understand what you are getting at! 

Jim


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

I'm not a Trek fan but I'm sorely tempted by this kit simply because I know how spectacular Paul's sets can look when fully lit....
I think any attempt to produce raised buttons will result in something that will appear overscale....I don't think it's necessary at this scale and is just making work for yourself.
As an example of Paul's suggestion of using Kristal Kleer, here's the control panel from his Blade Runner Sedan kit, pre-painted then each switch aperture fulled with Kristal Kleer....



Then coloured with Tamiya Clear Color and lit from behind by a single light source....depending on the brightness of your LED's, the lit buttons really 'pop' and appear three dimensional anyway....


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## sjohn385 (Dec 19, 2004)

Science and Communication panels using both photo etch sets..


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## Cappy1 (Jan 17, 2011)

Another example of after market kits making a ok kit, shine.
Looks great. Good job so far.


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## feek61 (Aug 26, 2006)

sjohn385 said:


> Science and Communication panels using both photo etch sets..


Looking sweet!! I am very interested in seeing how this comes out . . . keep posting photos of your progress!!!


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## Jim Dearden (Aug 5, 2004)

*Philosophical Question...*

Warm white, or cool white leds for the backlights?


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Personally I'd go with cool whites to preserve the printed colors. Warm whites will shift them toward yellow.


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## Jim Dearden (Aug 5, 2004)

Paulbo said:


> Personally I'd go with cool whites to preserve the printed colors. Warm whites will shift them toward yellow.


Well, I think I'll go with the designers preference! 

I'm going to be using some lcd screens as well, which are probably backlit with the cool white leds, so should match well.

Jim


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## shabo451 (Jan 27, 2008)

Both sets are fantastic. Just got them and hoping to start this model soon.


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