# is there an aftermarket version of this carb?



## billsantos (Jul 31, 2012)

The many carbs on eBay look very similar to the original one from my Homelite HB-100 blower with the following specs:

Carb (c1uh37) zama

Genuine OEM Part - Manufacturer #UP00652

Problem is that this one doesn't seem to fall under any of the ones on Ebay. 

I suspect this carb might be a generic used in many other blowers, weedeaters, etc but I just can't track it down there as venders don't list this particular blower model. 

If anyone can help track down an aftermarket version, would appreciate. 

Thanks


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

billsantos said:


> The many carbs on eBay look very similar to the original one from my Homelite HB-100 blower with the following specs:
> 
> Carb (c1uh37) zama
> 
> ...


First, what is wrong with the original carb? Can it be rebuilt? If the check valves are damaged you can check and see if there is a "parts you pull" type junk yard that may have mowers and two cycle engines. Some machines are tossed because the piston is damaged. You might find a perfectly good carb on one of these machines. 
As a rule you should match up the same type carb. In many two cycle engines, the carbs are not interchangable. I had swapped out a carb in a united and the thing started racing no matter what I did to it.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Hello Bill. Here are some links that should help you find what you need. I hope these help.

Zama C1U-H37 rebuild kit ( RB-20) ($10)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Zam...-Homelite-blower-/390135075380#ht_4686wt_1124

HB-100 Service Manual- (Select Homelite Leaf Blowers 1987-1999 Repair Manual)
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Homelite-Service-and-repair-Manuals/

New C1U-H37 Carb- ($42) ($37)
http://www.lawnmowerpros.com/detail.asp?id=C1U-H37
http://tewarehouse.com/C1U-H37


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## billsantos (Jul 31, 2012)

Thanks, guys, and especially for the service manual link as that will be very helpful in the future. I had spent quite a few hours looking for it online without success. 

I believe I have the issue solved. The primer bulb arrived yesterday and since the original was broken off and missing, I installed the new one and it was an easy process. I now see that the primer almost has to be installed for the pressure system to work correctly. One installed and primed, the blower started as per the instructions and I was able to clear out some wet leaves today. The carb is a bit out of adjustment as I was fiddling with it when I didn't have the primer, but I'm confident that after some adjustment tomorrow, the unit will work fine. 

Not bad for a total $8 investment ($5 yard sale blower plus $3 primer bulb).


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Good job Bill. Glad to hear everything worked out well and you sure can't beat an $8 investment in functional leaf blower.:thumbsup:


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## billsantos (Jul 31, 2012)

Almost perfect, but after extended use today, I am finding a small issue. After I have the blower running full throttle for a few minutes, it begins to idle down and if I release the trigger and try to give it throttle, it will stall. I tried further adjustment of the carb screws but it didn't seem to help. One thing that did help was priming. When the slowing down begins, I give it a single prime. Then if I wait a few seconds, the unit is good to go for another few minutes. Any ideas?


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

billsantos said:


> Almost perfect, but after extended use today, I am finding a small issue. After I have the blower running full throttle for a few minutes, it begins to idle down and if I release the trigger and try to give it throttle, it will stall. I tried further adjustment of the carb screws but it didn't seem to help. One thing that did help was priming. When the slowing down begins, I give it a single prime. Then if I wait a few seconds, the unit is good to go for another few minutes. Any ideas?


Have you disassembled the carb and checked the metering diaphram and the reed valve? You may need to clean it but be careful you don't damage the check valves. Check the metering valve and the screen.
Also double check the gasket. Some have two small holes, one at the top and one at the bottom. If it only has one, make sure it's turned around right.


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Hello Bill. Have you tried loosening the gas cap when the engine slows down? Could be a restricted vent in the cap. It would probably be a good idea to pick up the RB-20 rebuild kit ($6-$8)for the carb. The diaphragms stiffen over time and fuel delivery will lessen to the point of no fuel entering the cylinder.

Link to Zama service manual-
http://www.zamacarb.com/page/disassembly_servicing_1

Rebuild kit-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZAMA-RB-20-...ltDomain_0&hash=item25903a868e#ht_1927wt_1124


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## Lawnmowertech (Nov 12, 2008)

guys you could go to http://www.smallenginechainsawparts.com and bookmark the site


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## billsantos (Jul 31, 2012)

Hello again. Sorry for the delay here, work and other issues. Finally ordered the carb rebuild kit as suggested and replaced the gaskets and diaphrams. I did not attempt replacement of any of the metallic parts (valve, etc).

Upon attempted restart, I was unable to do so. Took a couple of hours before I could get a start up again. Mainly, I kept fiddling with the carb adjustment screws, but this really didn't seem to help. I would start each screw at 2.5 turns and go half a turn each way but to no avail. After removing the carb and reorienting the gaskets/ diaphrams (thinking I may have assembled them in the incorrect order), I finally managed a start up. 

However, this time I end up with still a hard starter and difficult to maintain running without a shot from the primer every now and then, plus now I have to keep the trigger pressed slightly or it will completely stall on idle. Adjusting the low carb screw doesn't seem to affect the low idle in any way. 

So, essentially, the same problems as before (hard start, having to give occasional prime while at full throttle or it will stall) and now the new problem of having no adjustment ability for idle. 

Still useable yesterday as I had a lot of leaf build up over the last two weeks, but I wish I could get these issues solved. Any thoughts?

Edit: Something I forgot to mention as I didn't mention this initially, I did have to replace the two fuel hoses when I first bought the unit. I wasn't sure how to do it other than pulling out the old ones, cutting the new ones to the same length, and then forcing in the new ones. Ever since replacement, there seems to be some gas leaking from the hose entry points on the tank if I tilt back the blower to where the gas reaches either hose to tank entry point. It's not much and I would almost think normal for this to occur the way the hose and tank couple together at those entry points, but just thought I'd mention it.


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