# Painting figures using craft acrylics



## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Has anyone had luck painting figures with craft acrylics such as Liqitex or similar brands? I remember trying this years ago with not much luck. They seem to go on thick and when dry, do not adhere well and look heavy.


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## LGFugate (Sep 11, 2000)

I use craft acrylic paint almost exclusively on all my models. If it's too thick for your liking, you can dilute it with water or rubbing alcohol, or mix in a little "extender", which will also extend the drying time. 

I've found that you have to use a good primer on plastics first, before applying the acrylic paint, unless the paint is formulated for plastic. I like to use Krylon white or gray primer, depending on what colors I'll be applying over it. I generally use white. Also be sure to thoroughly mix the paint before applying it. I shake the bottle vigorously, but some prefer stir sticks, or those little electric stirring devices.

On my Moebius Wonder Woman kit, all of the paint used, except the primer, was acrylic craft paint. I did cheat and use vinyl stick-on stars for her panties, but even the clear gloss is acrylic craft paint from HobbyLobby.

Larry


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I agree! I love them. Affordable, avalible..workable..sorry.

I always prime the item, but coverage is great Try painting a pilot's yellow MaeWest vest and you see what I'm saying.It's easy to work with and as larry said you can thin them with water, alcohol, window cleaner...and if you don't like the results, wash it off under the sink.

Steve


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

I use Ceramcoat acrylics over Krylon gray and white primer all the time. As noted, getting the right consistency with water or some other thinner and mixing thoroughly are the keys to a good finish (but isn't this the way with ANY paint?). I like Ceramcoat paints because they always dry dead flat--sometimes a bit too much so. And as my pal Steve123 says, you can't beat the price. Did this Atlantis American Bison (except for the nameplate) with them.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Thanks everyone. I am going to try this again. If I remember correctly (and at my age thats getting more difficult) when I first tries these paints about 16 years ago. I don't think I used a primer which is unusual because I always prime everything. One other question, how do these paints react with glosscoat or dull coat lacquers? Thanks again.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I have had no trouble with either, It is a different chemical formula. It won't react with lacquer or enamel. Think of it as a watercolor as opposed to an oil based paint.

Steve


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## mrmurph (Nov 21, 2007)

A friend of mine who did professional work recommended the Ceramacoat paints to me over ten years ago. I just picked up a couple of bottles at Jo Ann Fabrics for 97 cents apiece. While I don't consider myself an expert or professional by any sense of the term, you sure can't argue with Larry's beautiful built-up of Wonder Woman. Very nice!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I have used those and they are okay. I found some colors were really good and some very poor when it came to coverage. They do require a primer and often several thin layers of paint (not necessarily a bad thing). I do not use them a lot because I think I can get better results with less work using other paints, but I do have a big box full of assorted colors.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

I hate to be "that guy", but I've never been a fan of craft acrylics myself. By craft acrylics, I mean Ceramcoat and Apple Barrel type paints. Artists acrylics like Liquitex are different in the way they handle - they're much thicker, for one thing.

As the guys who've shared their work with us have shown, these paints can be made to perform well. But the paints aren't formulated to stick to non-porous surfaces, so if you want to use them on a plastic model, you'll have to apply a primer coat first (which I do anyway, no matter what kind of paint I use). Another thing I don't like about acrylics in general is that they dry so fast. If you're hand brushing them, one or two passes is all you're going to get before you start leaving brush marks. If you're airbrushing, you can run into problems with the paint clogging the airbrush or drying so fast they leave a gritty texture on the model's surface.

I find that acrylic paints make poor washes; the color gets thin as the paint is diluted, the wash tends to bubble (leaving bright spots in what was supposed to be dark areas when the paint dries), and "high water marks" - outlines left when the water in the wahs has evaporated. With the exception of Vallejo Acrylics, I don't know of anywater-based paints that drybrush at all well.

My biggest complaint with acrylics of any sort is that they have a chalky appearance when dry that is really not suited for realistic flesh. There's no hope of modeling contours because the paints dry so fast. For this kind of work, I can't recommend artists oils highly enough.

All this is not to say that craft acrylics are worthless. I use them to paint small details and, because they are inexpensive, they're fine for painting large areas of groundwork. But they don't take center stage with me.


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## rhinooctopus (May 22, 2011)

*Dull Finish*

I love Testor's "Dull Cote" but man it is expensive. I have tried a few other brands (in larger cans/quantities) but haven't found one I like as well as Dull Cote. Has anybody found another one that works like Dull Cote...for less money?


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

IMHO Testors dull coat is the best. 
Provided you shake it, shake it again, and again.......

I have to shake the can for a good 10 minutes to get that dull finish. If I dont the finish comes out more of a semi gloss or satin.


Second to the Testors is "JW Right Step Clear Varnish Matte". The only reason I place it second is because it generally needs to be air brushed on. I consider that more of an inconvenience compared to a spray can. It can be applied with a paint brush if you are painting something small. I'm thinking something like a 1/48 scale or smaller aircraft figures.

Kryon flat is pretty good too.


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

I've found that after giving the figure a few final coats of Dullcoat I gently wash the figure with dish soap and the finish turns out dead flat.
Also I second Ceramcoat. Never had a problem with airbrushing or washes. Apple Barrel is crap, too transluscent. IMHO.


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

Though I use Ceramcoat often, Mark is right about its limited use for flesh tones. Just doesn't look right to my (admittedly unpracticed) eye. Never had a problem using Dull Coat over it--as long as it's dry. On primers, Krylon seems to work okay for large rougher surfaces, such as a stone wall or a bison, but for anything that will have a smooth finish (say a car or spacecraft), you can't beat Tamiya white fine surface primer lightly worked with fine sand paper--in my opinion of course. "De gustibus non est disputandum."


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Another dull coat alternative I have had good success with is Testors acrylic flat coat. This comes in a bottle and must be airbrushed but if done correctly ie. light even coats, it provides a good flat finish. This is not much help to those who do not airbrush. Actually I have always had good look with Testors Dullcoat and if sprayed correctly, 1 can should last for quite a few projects, of course depending on the size of the model.


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## dreamer 2.0 (May 11, 2007)

Dread, I too had a rocky start with acrylics. Stick with it - painting by hand is "my thing" when it comes to models, the part I love best, particularly dry-brushing...and I gotta tell ya, acrylics absolutely rock for dry-brushing. Plus, if you check out a dedicated craft store like Michael's, the prices are perfect and the range of colors will cover pretty much every need other than metallics or clears.

I don't use them exclusively, mind, I often lay down a base coat of enamel, and use _only_ enamel for skin tones. (When I get back into the hobby fully I'll try oils as I've promised to do). But I have come to love acrylics.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

rhinooctopus said:


> I love Testor's "Dull Cote" but man it is expensive. I have tried a few other brands (in larger cans/quantities) but haven't found one I like as well as Dull Cote. Has anybody found another one that works like Dull Cote...for less money?


It lasts a long time so the fact that it is $5 a can but will spray 6-10 models makes its a reasonable deal. Its not like you will find something that is say $.79. At best you might find a big can of Krylon stuff for $4.79 but is it safe for your kit and will it give you the finish you want?

I like the Testors Clear Flat Lacquer in the tall square jars... that stuff is dead flat. You thin it out a good bit for airbrushing and one bottle lasts a long long time.


There are some real good spray clear coats out there like Vallejo and Gunze but you may pay $8-$12 for a small hobby size can.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

I've never gotten the really dead flat finish from Krylon that Testors Dullcote provides. If only they'd package that stuff in a Krylon-sized can! Krylon's clear flat is fine for a satin finish when you want it.

Tamiya's Clear Flat Base, when thinned with Future, of all things, is the best acrylic matte finish I've ever used. Adding more Future allows you to bring the finish up to a satin or semi-gloss level. Any glossier, and you just use straight Future.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I have been doing a few practice runs using the acrylic craft paints and have a few questions. I'm using an old trashed figure which I have primed one half with Krylon white primer and the other half with Krylon grey primer. I have used basically primary colors red, blue yellow using AppleBarrel and Ceramcoat paints. My question is 1) the paints seem too translucent and don't cover well and 2) I get a lot of brush ridging. I'm using high quality brushes and not thinning the paint. Any suggestions?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Dreads,

Like I said, I don't think these paints work at all well - they're just not made for plastic modeling. Your problems with translucency could mean you need to shake or stir them up more, to ensure you get all the pigments up off the bottoms of the containers. As for the "ridging", that's happening because these paints dry so blamed fast the brush strokes can't level out before the paint hardens.

If you must use these cheap paints, try this: pour a little paint into some small container like a yogurt cup or a cheap plastic palette (the round white dishes with cups molded in them). Thin the paint a bit with a little water; try to guesstimate how much thinned paint you'll need to cover the area you're working on so you don't run out in the middle of the job. Then brush on a coat, leaving a good wet edge to brush into when you make your next pass. Don't brush any more than you have to in order to get the paint on the model; let the thinned paint level itself out.

This first coat won't have covered any too well. Let it air dry or speed the drying time up with a hair dryer (I keep one on my workbench for just this sort of thing). Then go back in with a second coat, brushing in a direction that's 90 degrees to your first application. Dry again and repeat the process until you get the coverage you need.

That was a lot of work, wasn't it? This is a classic case of spending extra money to get a better product - i.e., dedicated model paints. If you want your models to look like a million bucks, you can't finish them with 99-cent-a-bottle paint.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

Thanks Mark. Now I know why I gave up on these paints when I first tried them many years ago. Just seems like too much work which translates into loss of interest. I just thought I would revisit this one more time and now that I have, I think I'll just continue with my tried and true Testors, Tamiya,etc.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## PF Flyer (Jun 24, 2008)

Dread, something else must be amiss here. Craft (Ceramcoat) paints just are not that difficult to use--especially over primer. Can't speak for other brands. Like any paint, including the much ballyhooed hobby-specific over-priced enamels and artist's oils, the craft acrylics have to be mixed thoroughly (especially if they've been sitting around for a while) and thinned a bit. Water works just fine. Occasionally, a color doesn't cover that well with the first coat--Burnt Sienna is one I've had trouble with (and just about any yellow is translucent and has to be used over white primer as do a lot of reds, but from experience, I know that this is true of some enamels, oils, and Freak Flex acryls as well)--but layering on some additional thin coats usually does the job. As I've said before, it's mostly the carpenter, not his tools. A little practice helped me a lot, though I still regard myself as an amateur painter. Frankly, it's also how one thinks of himself as a modeler. Must you have the best thing going and scorn all else? Or do you build for yourself, use what's handy and cheap, seek satisfaction instead of absolute perfection, and try to have some fun in the process? If the Ceramcoat isn't working for you, try the Testor's Model Master acryls or Tamiya. You'll pay a little more, but still have the ease of cleanup and other advantages. And these brands work better for flesh tones, IMO. Caveat: I've been known to build kits strictly for fun without posting photos on Hobbytalk, have unwittingly bought a recast or two, have purchased from MIM, and tend to believe that model companies should be excited to hear what their customers want to build. So feel free to regard with the proverbial grain of salt. (Did I mention that I think Wonderfest and other such contests should be for model-builders and not professional movie prop guys? And that severed heads are in poor taste?) Shutting up....


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## Bruce Bishop (Jan 17, 1999)

I get good results from the cheap acrylic paints, almost all Ceramcoat. 

I use a big butter tub lid, put a drop of whatever color (or colors if I am mixing my own) I want to use on it, spread out a bit of paint to see how thick it is, then dip my brush in water and stir it on the lid for a second to have it evenly mixed, then paint on the primed model. 

Just like a 'regular' painter mixing and thinning paint on a palette. As long as I keep the paint thinned a bit with water on the brush, I don't normally get paint ridging. If I do, I dip my brush in the water and go over the paint I just put on the kit and thin it down right on the kit to remove the ridging.

I like the fact that the acrylics dry quickly because I can go over a color that needs a second or third coat very soon. Or I can paint the next color on the kit part and get done sooner. Either way, I like that I don't have to wait a day so that I don't end up with embedded fingerprints in the paint as happened so often when I was an excited kid and used Testors enamels.

Some paints do cover better than others, but if it bothered me to go over a color a couple of times to get full coverage I would just use the old enamel paints like I used as a kid. Although on the kits I have that I build back then, I have plenty of ridging, fingerprints and bits of paintbrush in the enamel I used on them.

I do think that flat enamels are probably better than acrylics because I am guessing that the paint coat is much stronger and durable than the acrylic coat. Using both flat and gloss enamels on kits that need both types of finish on parts should give a durable finish.

Even so, I find the acrylics extremely simple to use, mix special colors, and clean up afterwards. Combined with spray primer, and a spray can coat on the occasional large part, I much prefer my current painting experience over the painting problems I had as a kid, most of which would not have occurred if I had then the acrylics that I am using now.

I mix my own skin colors, at times using various combinations of red or brown, and white to lighten up the color. I think I use another color as well but I just don't remember at the moment. I like to brush them on as if I am doing a painting, and I can get some nice shading and color effects to the skin that I often don't have to touch up. And also, I have no trouble with the skin tone I am using being able to cover the part.

Personally, I think if someone has tools and equipment and skills that works well for them, that they should stick with them. Branch out and try new things if the desire to do so is very strong, and if not, well, you are already enjoying what you are doing and the results you get, so why not just be happy?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Bruce Bishop said:


> Branch out and try new things if the desire to do so is very strong, and if not, well, you are already enjoying what you are doing and the results you get, so why not just be happy?


Sound advice, BB. I have aired my grievances with craft paints because they don't produce the results I want. If they do for others, great - we all build to our own standards. How our own work pleases each of us is all that really counts.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

I agree 100% Mark.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Okay here are the two figures I used the cheap craft stuff on...

The first was this very large resin Power Girl figure




























and Moebius' Victim kit




















I bought the paints because someone else had painted Power Girl using them and I liked the results. On such a large figure (this must be about 1/4 or 1/5 scale) they worked "okay" but I had to thin them out a lot and even the white took a zillion coats and that was going over white primer! I could build up some nice rich colors with the blue and yellow though. The flesh shades were actually pretty nice but also fairly gritty/grainy compared to any name brand model paint. But on such a large figure the grainyness wasnt so big of an issue. They would be worthless on a 1/35 figure though. I never could get a craft red to work so the red here was, I think Vallejo or Gunze Sangyo. Same with the metallics. The craft gold was worthless so I used Testors enamel. I am happy with the results so I can't complain, but the amount of work was three times as much effort compared to using better quality (for figure painting) paints. 

I painted the Victim's skin tones using the same paints because I had them available. I used the craft blue paint for her top as well as I liked the color and it mixed well with white. But all of the detail painting was done with Vallejo and Humbrol paints. Again it took an inordinate amount of time to get the same results you could get with less work with a better paint.

I did up this Dr. Jekyll using Vallejo paints in under an hour. I think I painted the much simpler Power Girl skin tones over a week long period.










And Dracula was done in basically two days with Testors and Poly Scale paints. The Testors ship paints red and Poly Scale black covered in one coat.










Lately I have bought some Lifecolor acrylics. They are very thin but very opaque and airbrush (and brush paint ) beautifully.










Ultimately people should experiment around to see what works for you. I am constantly trying new paints and materials. But, to be honest, price is not a deciding factor. I figure if I can spring $150 for Power Girl then if I wanted to spend $3 for a jar of Testors paint thats not unreasonable if thats what I felt was best.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

do yourself a favor and steer away from the craft paint aisle and move instead over to the artists acrylics. you get what you pay for, and artists acrylics have a higher quality acrylic polymer base and are more richly pigmented.

(some craft acrylics are housepaint repackaged. really... i used to work at a company that bottled the stuff!)


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## Disco58 (Apr 10, 2011)

In case anyone might care, DecoArt Americana paints are on sale at Hobby Lobby for 77 cents, and there's a 40% coupon for anything else.:thumbsup:


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## apls (Dec 5, 2005)

I never had a problem with these paints. I also use model master as well. There are some of these craft paints that are top of the line. I swear by Color Traditions line, the promplem is they discontinue these paints and you cannot get them anymore. One color, I went so far in to tracking down the factory, the color was diamond. Spring for the upper scale paint at AC Moore and prime and seal.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Here are a couple of faces I've done with artists oils, by way of comparing the appearance of these paints with acrylics.


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## Desslock (Mar 5, 2011)

razorwyre1 said:


> do yourself a favor and steer away from the craft paint aisle and move instead over to the artists acrylics. you get what you pay for, and artists acrylics have a higher quality acrylic polymer base and are more richly pigmented.


So what's the best brand of acrylics to buy, regardless of price? Or is the answer different for different purposes?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Desslock said:


> ...Or is the answer different for different purposes?


That's pretty much the answer. I don't use ever use craft acrylics for flesh tones, but that doesn't mean I never use them at all. As I said earlier, I do have some craft paints on hand for little detail items like buttons on clothing, and they're fine for painting bases I've scratcbuilt from craft materials like Celluclay.

Personally, I like Vallejo Acrylics, which handle almost as well as oil-based paints, for genral use on figures. If I need to color large areas of a base, I find artists acrylics (like Liquitex) provide great coverage. There are few areas of plastic modeling that can be handled by a single tool or material.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Desslock said:


> So what's the best brand of acrylics to buy, regardless of price? Or is the answer different for different purposes?


I buy some acrylic paints based on the color. Like Tamiya OD is the only commercially available model paint that closely matches US Army World War II Olive. Others are either too green or are post war Airplane Olives.

Some I buy for their quality, like Vallejo. They make a ton of shades, and you can mix them to make an infinite number of colors. Also Vallejo metallics are very good (most acrylic metallics are poor)

The Craft stuff is good for porus materials like ground cover on a diorama, etc. Although Woodland Scenics makes some big bottles of acrylic scenery paint that are excellent.


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## Desslock (Mar 5, 2011)

Thanks guys, that's helpful. Does it make sense to mix oils in for metallics, if they work better for that (or glosses?), or does it not make sense to blend acrylics/oils like that?

Also, is it true that you should only use acrylics for airbrushing? or are they just easier to clean/use for that purpose.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

Desslock said:


> Thanks guys, that's helpful. Does it make sense to mix oils in for metallics, if they work better for that (or glosses?), or does it not make sense to blend acrylics/oils like that?
> 
> Also, is it true that you should only use acrylics for airbrushing? or are they just easier to clean/use for that purpose.


acrylics are water based. you know what they say about oil and water? (im sort of joking here, but seriously, chemically, they wont mix well, if at all.)

no its not true that you should only use ascrlics for airbrushing. many solvent based paints (enamel, lacquer, some alcohol based acrylics like tamiya) are excellent for airbrushing. 
by the way, as to high quality acrylic polymer base, try liquitex artists acrylics and createx airbrushing acrylics.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

A couple non-expert thoughts. As far as I know and would firmly believe you cannot mix oils and acrylics. As Razor said the old saying about oil and water don't mix apply completely. I believe that in general solvent based paints work better in an airbrush then acrylics, in general. I do like the Vallejo Model Air acrylics formulated for airbrushing and they shoot very nicely. But I frequently have problems with Freestyle and Freak Flex airbrush paints clogging my nozzle. I once had a bottle of Freestyle black that was a total disaster in an airbrush. I could simply not spray it thinned even more or otherwise. I told Dan Jorgensen about it at Kitbuilders U and he said the guy that does the paints for him on occasion didn't grind the pigment fine enough. Thinking back it almost seems the paint I got on my fingers fighting with it felt gritty. As the others have said though, whatever works for you is what you should do. I've used all these types paints and it depends on the job or the color mostly. I am price sensitive but a small bottle of quality paint goes a long way when used on models.

Bob K.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Dess',

It sounds like you're a little inexperienced with spray painting, so here's a so here's a useful tip: before you worry about what kind of paints to airbrush, don't overlook the good ol' spray can. Primers and a lot of your basic colors - black, gray, silver, white, etc. - can be applied easily, smoothly, and economically using hardware store brand paints.

A 12 oz. can of this type paint often costs less than the small cans of hobby paint. I love Testors products but, for me flat black is flat black, so why pay more if I don't have to? I'll airbrush a custom color or use a particular hobby paint that I can't get any other way.

As for the procedures for getting the best results with spray can paint, here are some threads I found: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1107463#post1107463
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=113724&highlight=spray+cans
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1549101#post1549101

There are lots of others, but these three are a start; best of luck with your painting!


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## nautilusnut (Jul 9, 2008)

I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread that there are acrylic retarders available in the arts section for acrylics. These make the acrylic work much more like oils, slowing down the drying time and making blending much easier. They can also add a slight sheen to the paint for skin. 

If airbrushing, there is an additive for that too. Use Windex to to clean the airbrush of acrylics after painting and a drop in the paint works well too.

I have been painting figures for years with these inexpensive craft paints and taken many awards-some against oil-painted figures. Some brands are better than others, but I find Apple Barrel and Folk Art pretty good. For small figures- 1/35th or so, use Valello. (Pricey, but worth it- however, you will not find them at Hobby Lobby)

I have attached some samples of figures totally painted with these inexpensive paints.


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## Disco58 (Apr 10, 2011)

nautilusnut said:


> I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread that there are acrylic retarders available in the arts section for acrylics.
> If airbrushing, there is an additive for that too...I have been painting figures for years with these inexpensive craft paints and taken many awards-some against oil-painted figures. Some brands are better than others, but I find Apple Barrel and Folk Art pretty good. For small figures- 1/35th or so, use Vallejo. (Pricey, but worth it- however, you will not find them at Hobby Lobby). I have attached some samples of figures totally painted with these inexpensive paints.


Nice job on th figures.:thumbsup: There is a flow enhancer from Winsor & Newton in the Galeria line (yellow label jar) that works quite well, and you just use it as thinner. It works with any brand/type acrylic, including the heavy artist's tube paints. It's about $10 for an 8oz jar, and you mix it 20:1 with water, so it's rather economical. I use it to thin paint for drybrushing or airbrushing, and it works like a champ.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

Disco58 said:


> Nice job on th figures.:thumbsup: There is a flow enhancer from Winsor & Newton in the Galeria line (yellow label jar) that works quite well, and you just use it as thinner. It works with any brand/type acrylic, including the heavy artist's tube paints. It's about $10 for an 8oz jar, and you mix it 20:1 with water, so it's rather economical. I use it to thin paint for drybrushing or airbrushing, and it works like a champ.


give flowtrol from your local hardware/house paint supplier a try. same stuff as the artists acrylic flow enhancer, but you get about a quart for the same cost as a tiny 4 to 8 oz. bottle.


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## nautilusnut (Jul 9, 2008)

> give flowtrol from your local hardware/house paint supplier a try. same stuff as the artists acrylic flow enhancer, but you get about a quart for the same cost as a tiny 4 to 8 oz. bottle.
> Reply With Quote Multi-Quote This Message Quick reply to this message


Now that's advice we can all use! Thanks!


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## Disco58 (Apr 10, 2011)

razorwyre1 said:


> give flowtrol from your local hardware/house paint supplier a try. same stuff as the artists acrylic flow enhancer, but you get about a quart for the same cost as a tiny 4 to 8 oz. bottle.


Well *fine then*, of course you tell me now after I bought a jar of the other stuff....umm, about a year ago.....:freak: I'm one of those always looking for a bargain/cheaper alternative, like hardware store lacquer thinner for styrene glue, but looking for paint stuff like that never occurred to me. Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## armymedic80 (Aug 11, 2010)

I use the DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paints and they are for everything minus plastic, but I use them anyway and they're great. Prime the plastic model, thin this paint with water and then you can brush it on or airbrush it. It's smooth and good quality. I guess for as long as you use a primer first, then this paint will adhere pretty wel. Then after finished painting and it dries use a matte clear finish and the paint job will be protected. What I like about this paint is that it's a really good quality craft paint and they got an abundance of colors. I think this paint when I bought it goes for more than a dollar for 2 ounces, but it's worth it. The Aurora Frankie on the left I did with Americana paints and it's holding up very well.


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## Desslock (Mar 5, 2011)

Mark McGovern said:


> There are lots of others, but these three are a start; best of luck with your painting!


Thanks so much! Yes, I'm new to anything other than brush painting, and haven't done even any of that in about 10 years. So I'm just trying to absorb as much information and opinions as I can, and then I'm going to experiment like crazy and try to learn through experience. Those links are really helpful.


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## Desslock (Mar 5, 2011)

nautilusnut said:


> I have attached some samples of figures totally painted with these inexpensive paints.


Those are all incredible. Really inspirational.


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