# After Action Reveiw, my TOS Enterprise 1:350



## stryker (May 29, 2012)

After not building a plastic model for almost 20 years, I am back at it with the Polar Lights TOS 1:350 Enterprise. I am complete with the Saucer Assembly and Saucer Pylon. Just need to hit it with 800 sand paper and it will be ready for decals. You can watch and read all available but until you do it...

At this point I have:
- Lost a decal on the Hanger Deck to shrinking out of control
- Dropped one of the top saucer windows into the saucer after I sealed it up
- Dropped the saucer and had to repaint
- Put a big thumb print in my clear coat right in the middle of the pylon
- Burned up 1 x 3 LED strip
- Collected enough lint on the bottom of saucer during painting that it looks like a rug
- Last but not least, melted both sides of the hanger deck with a heat gun trying to dry the paint.

I hope the next 2/3 goes better


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Ummm.....still pretty dang cool. I like it.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Which window inserts did you use - clear or white?


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

For the pylon I used the clear and black. You can't see it by my bad iPhone pics but I used gray, silver and brass screen on some of the windows to copy the 3rd season. As for the saucer, all the windows are clear (frosted and painted flat white) except for upper saucer and the 3 windows facing the front which are white. B/C Deck are all clear.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Received my replacement Hanger Bay from Polar Lights. Great customer service! See if I can't get it painted before Christmas. Not sure how I am going to handle the loss of my Hanger deck decal...


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

It can take a while to get back on the horse.

But you seem to be coming along nicely.

What brand and shade of grey did you use?


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Saucer looks great to my eye. Hang in there!


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Thanks guys and Merry Christmas!

Had a few mins. today to work on the Hanger Bay. Since I melted the decal for the hanger deck, I have to create - still working on the final layout. When I figure it out, I will give it light weathering and be ready to move on (I am sure the Enterprise Flight Deck Warrant Officer will not be happy about the dirt in his bay). As far as the color of my Enterprise, I am using Testors Flat Gull Gray FS36440 Acryl with a few drops of flat brown. Very close to the ACE Concrete color.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Since this is a After Action Review of what not to do with your 1:350 Enterprise, thought it was time for an update. I have been working though my love/hate relationship with the Hanger Bay and have nearly completed the mission. I have been testing different lighting and think I can get enough light in the Hanger Bay to view what's inside! I did have to retool my shuttle since the glue I was using basically ate away the shuttle necells. Back on track with a lighted shuttle - not real happy with the paint job but it is what it is.  I have also started placing the lights in the main - so far so good. 

Shuttle on the bench


Shuttle leaves hanger


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Just a quick update to the Secondary Hull. Figured out most of the lighting - the green window in the back was not getting any light. Used the Dremel and removed some of the plastic from around the Hanger Bay. Installed another light in the back. Its better but not as bright as I want. One side down, moving on to the other. 

Plastic removed:




Still need to clean up the Hanger Bay some...


Light'er up!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I like what you came up with for the markings on the shuttle bay floor.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Thanks Trek. Since I messed up the enclosed decal I needed to come up with something - tried to remember some of the characteristics of the carrier decks and hangers I have been around during my career. I have a small "USS Enterprise" that I will add to the Fan Tail. I am surprised it was never added to the TOS studio model.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

stryker said:


> I have a small "USS Enterprise" that I will add to the Fan Tail. I am surprised it was never added to the TOS studio model.


Won't the fantail lights get in the way?


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

The decal is small enough to squeeze between the yellow markers and the bottom edge. Will see how it looks. I have two colors and fonts to pick from on the decal sheet. 

Did you paint the edge of the fantail the same color as the hanger bay or did you use your ship color? The other parts I am struggling with are the Nacelle side coolers or whatever ya call them. Parts 47 and 49. Can't really tell the colors.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

stryker said:


> Did you paint the edge of the fantail the same color as the hanger bay or did you use your ship color? The other parts I am struggling with are the Necelle side coolers or whatever ya call them. Parts 47 and 49. Can't really tell the colors.


My fantail matches the hull color:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9619393138/

For parts 47 and 49 they are hull color except for the accents whcih are Canadian Voodoo Grey (ModelMaster # 2039). You can see this noted on the paint guides located on the sides of the bottom half of the kit box. The accents are the curved parts. So the center ribbed sections are hull color for both parts as well as that flattened rectangular bit at the front of part 47.

These pic shows these areas as a lighter shade of grey:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9280608802/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9703099097/


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Thank you again! Makes more sense now viewing your model. I noticed you also shaved down the windows in the back... Will try the same process on the starboard side for more light clearance. Plus I will better position the LED to hit both windows attached to the hanger wall. The one I placed on the port side is a little low.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Had a few hours free today so I finished up the Secondary Hull. So, few things I learned: Light blocking around the hanger deck was some what of a pain. I ended up using foil to light block all of the joints. On Trekkriffic suggestion, I made my windows on the secondary hull, around the hanger bay, as thin as possible. This helped with clearance and getting light to the very back windows. I did not glue the green and red beacon lights in the top of the hanger bay in place, thinking I could "float" them to the middle as I glued the hull together. Good idea, wrong execution. Because I did not sand them down enough, they are stuck to one side. Not enough clearance between the top of the hull and hanger bay. Bummer.

While the hull was drying I moved on to the Nacelles. Instead of crunching up a mirror and causing more bad luck, I used a holiday gift bag as my reflection surface.


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## Manatee Dream (Jan 2, 2014)

Following this closely as I'm doing the refit version soon. It looks like you are going the silver paint route for light blocking, how many coats of paint are you doing and whats the order? For some reason this is a major source of agony for me.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I knew the spine lights would have clearance issues so on my build I modified the two halves of the secondary hull by carving a slot in the tongue that fits into the groove over the shuttle bay. I then trimmed off the inward wall of the groove so light could reach the spine lights from below. I also had to sand the back of the insert thinner so it sat flush with the hull. Carving the groove also gave me more clearance for the SMD LEDs in center slot of the hangar bay ceiling. Before gluing the hull together I gave the joint a few coats of black and white paint to restore some of the light blocking but I still had to light block from the outside afterwards. I should have mentioned this earlier; it might have saved you some pain. 


IMG_4400 by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Hi Manatee, great question since many modelers have their own technique. Since this is my first plastic model in years (I build mostly RC boats) I had to re-learn light blocking. Here are a few guys I follow on YouTube that have it down pat: Trek Works, Model Man Tom, and Simon Mercs. I would highly recommend Boyd's (Trek Works) video blog on the refit. I have learned a ton from watching all his vids. 

What I did for my TOS was fairly simple. I used Dupli-Color gray filler primer (best. primer. ever.) and Tamiya TS-45 Pearl White. The TOS is a fairly thick model so I have not really experienced many light leaks. The only real problem I have had to deal with are the seams around the Hanger Bay. I did use my Dremel tool to remove some of the plastic on the port side of the inside of the secondary hull near the hanger bay for better window lighting. In that case I used a coat of black over the primer before I applied the white. Thought I had shaved the wall a little thin.

For the refit I would recommend a dark primer followed by Tamiya silver, then white, all in the spray can. Little more expensive but I have never had a problem with cracking due to layering with these paints. Hope this helps.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Great point by Trekkriffic - this also raises up the spine lights to slip a prewired LED under. I will pay close attention to your build log!


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I'm not doing an open shuttle bay so I have more leeway with those rear secondary hull lights, and since I'm doing my own lighting rather than use PL's kit I don't have to worry about the size of the wires/LEDs for the shuttle bay control room. Here's how mine looks:



I've actually removed the SMD from underneath the green disc with the 3 small tubes as it gets lit up just fine with the shuttle bay control room SMD. For the 3 spine lights, I carved out a divot and installed another SMD (the wires run in channels). Dry fitted and tested but of course all could go horribly pear shaped when it comes to finally gluing the hull together.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Looks great Ross. Looking forward to viewing the rest of the ship! I did use a combination of LEDs from the PL light kit and a few super brights I had left over from my last boat kit. I did find that my local Auto Zone has a fairly good selection of LED strips which I will use to light up the Necelles.


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## Manatee Dream (Jan 2, 2014)

Thank you stryker exactly what I needed. I got the testors primer and the cadet series enterprise to practice on, I like how the darker primer shows areas that need to be filled or sanded better than white. Thank you for your help!


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

RossW said:


> I'm not doing an open shuttle bay so I have more leeway with those rear secondary hull lights, and since I'm doing my own lighting rather than use PL's kit I don't have to worry about the size of the wires/LEDs for the shuttle bay control room. Here's how mine looks:


Wow, you're green aft light thingy is really painted well. I just marked mine. BTW, how are you going to get that assembly into the hull? I did a dry run with the tail lights attached to the hangar floor and it would go in.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Mark2000 said:


> Wow, you're green aft light thingy is really painted well. I just marked mine. BTW, how are you going to get that assembly into the hull? I did a dry run with the tail lights attached to the hangar floor and it would go in.


Thanks Mark. I airbrushed Tamiya Clear Green (after masking the 3 tubes) and then hand painted the tubes with Tamiya clear colours. Now that I removed the SMD LED from directly under the disc the light from the shuttle bay control room seems to illuminate it more evenly, too.

The hangar bay doors aren't glued in yet, but that probably doesn't matter. I've been able to dry fit it into place with the secondary hull halves rubber banded together. The slight problem is the front of the deck (with the 5 landing lights) is slightly askew so i'll have to make sure I get it fully straightened out before the glue sets.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Ross, it's not everyday a man gets a complement on his green thingy. Well done Sir.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

Yeah, the landing deck. That's what I had on and it wouldn't go. Snapped right off as I tried to place it.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Any problems light blocking?


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## spawndude (Nov 28, 2007)

Which color is best for light blocking.
Silver or bright white?


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

spawndude said:


> Which color is best for light blocking.
> Silver or bright white?


Hi Spawn, I think silver and white perform equal; the key is a good base coat primer. Depending on the color pigment of plastic you are working with (lighter colors tend to need more light blocking) would determine how many coats for light blocking. It's really a matter of personal preference to which color.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

spawndude said:


> Which color is best for light blocking.
> Silver or bright white?


Primer is best for light blocking. Black over it is a little extraneous if you ask me. White is very good for diffusing light evening inside the model. Silver tends to reflect it straight back to the source.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Mark2000 said:


> Primer is best for light blocking. Black over it is a little extraneous if you ask me. White is very good for diffusing light evening inside the model. Silver tends to reflect it straight back to the source.


Thickness and color of kit plastic are big factors in what to use for light blocking. On my currrent NX-01 refit build the plastic is a light grey and not very thick. A few LEDs had to be mounted right up against the inside of the hull with no standoffs. In that case I primed and layed down a coat of black followed by white. Then I laid a piece if foil tape underneath and above the LED. Even then the LED is so bright I'll have to lay down more lightblocking coats on the exterior; especially at the seams. I tried primer first of course but you can still see the LED glow inside. So she will get a coat of black. When in doubt go black baby!


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Always bet on black! (Name that movie)


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Wesley Snipes, Passenger 57


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

stryker said:


> Wesley Snipes, Passenger 57
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaIEZligRj8


We have a winner!


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

*Up on the stand...*

Masked off the windows of the Secondary Hull tonight and also filled the top and bottom gap. After painting, I did notice a few areas needing attention (sanding/gap filling). Mr. Surface did the trick on most of the lingering gap areas. Tomorrow I will apply the last coat of paint and clear coat. 

Not many issues with the Nacelles thus far... I have started the process of wiring in the lights, speed controls and sound suppression. I have had to perform most of the corrections (listed in builder blogs) to the motors to try to lower the noise level. Still have some sanding to perform around the motor shaft to keep the plastic from rubbing. The march toward the finish line continues!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice job on that upper hull seam.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

That is exceptionally smooth. I hope I can manage that.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Quick update tonight... cleaning up and gluing the Nacelles. Both are now ready for seam work. Using a single fiber optic lighting cable for each side. I wanted to light up the Nacelles and the low-level light from the cable will not over power the rest of the ship lighting. Should end up being an even glow.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

I am just about at the 2/3 point with the Enterprise. Over the weekend I continued to work on the seams of the Nacelles and fixed the cable lighting into place. I taped off the "window" and repainted both engines since I marked-up the finish while sanding seams. My paint was a little thin the first time around so now they match the overall color of the ship. The only challenge I found is painting the photo etch screens for the inside of the Nacelles. I found it best to airbrush on a flat surface, pointing straight down, no tape holding the screens. 



Lighting is just the right brightness and color. I did not want something that would overpowered the ship (like an LED strip from the PL light kit) and the optical cable seemed to have done the trick. The camera shows a hot spot but the light is even from end to end.



One item that as been bugging the $%^& out of me since I screwed it up gluing the Secondary Hull has been the spine lights. Well, tonight I cut out the old and plan a new set that will receive more light and resemble the lights on the 11 foot studio model. Stay tuned to see how this one works out  The plot thickens...


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Well Fellas, need some help. Should I have a gap between the impluse engine cover and the top of the saucer (spine)?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

stryker said:


> Well Fellas, need some help. Should I have a gap between the impluse engine cover and the top of the saucer (spine)?
> 
> View attachment 184444


Yes. At least I assume so. Otherwise I don't think the back end of the long part on top of the saucer would be curved on the bottom.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

I see from the picture I have more sanding to do...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

stryker said:


> I see from the picture I have more sanding to do...


The camera does not lie- unfortunately.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

That gap its, indeed, on the shooting model. It's even on the TOS-R CGI model. I find it bizarre, but it's official.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Miarecki must have modified the part when he did his "restoration" in '91. I've got a folder with photos of the model now that show the bottom of the piece flattened and butted up against the top of the impulse deck.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

Here's a shot of the original E.










This is is a shot of CBS's model in the interactive demo on the bluray.










I do think the R2 model's gap is a little wider that on the show, though.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Yes. Round 2's gap is significantly wider. I take back what I said about Miarecki modifying the part.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Thanks for the input Fellas. I pull the spine piece to sand and repaint. Also noticed a few spots in the saucer I need to hit again with my airbrush. This model is a paint hog!


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

Trekriffic, the part is also shaped wrong. It's oval. The real one is flat on the bottom.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Yup, i see... will be fixing my part...


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

*The decals... again*

As of this weekend the Nacelles are on. I did run into a large problem when I was mounting the Nacelles to the Nacelle Pylons. Seems the wire at the top of the Pylon creates about a 1/16 of an inch gap with the engine. And of course being smarter than the average bear, I already laid down my decals, 22 to 25. Crap. Well, used some forming putty to fill the gap and it is what it is. Not really happy with my putty work. Sent out the 911 call and received digital copies of the decals from Sparky and Mark2000. Thanks again guys. Will use the copy to create a mask and airbrush on the missing decals.



Finished my spine lights maker-over so I am ready to clean up on the secondary hull and attach the Saucer.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice job on the spine lights! I had to do something similar with the hull just above the control room booth when one of the solder joints broke to the square LED over the doors. I wasn't going to live without a dome light. Had to cut a hole between the top of the cowling just in front of the dome. Then I had to determine where the break was before resoldering the wire. Filled the hole in with epoxy, sanded, putties, sanded some more but it came out fine. 
One thing I noticed in the first pic above was the color of the reactor control loop; aside from the Voodoo Grey for the curves, the rectangular piece at the front and the straight section in the middle should be hull color but it looks like you painted the middle section the same color as the trench.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Trekkriffic said:


> One thing I noticed in the first pic above was the color of the reactor control loop; aside from the Voodoo Grey for the curves, the rectangular piece at the front and the straight section in the middle should be hull color but it looks like you painted the middle section the same color as the trench.


Thanks Trek. True, I did not stick with the normal painting directions for the square ends. All ends are voodoo with dull coat, dark sea gray for the loop, aluminum for the cheese grader inset. I lost the show/ studio authenticity when I melted the Hanger Bay and had to make my own deck markings. Now it's just a cool interpretation of the TOS Enterprise. I will build another at some point that will be spot-on.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

I like your metallic grills. In fact, I like them so much I may steal them for this part and the mesh on the pylons. I like playing with different textures and surface treatments. Not everything should be matte.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Put in a few hours last night attaching the saucer to the secondary hull. Even with a large amount of prep work, my seam cracked in front of the saucer pylon. Only issue I ran into mounting the saucer. I painted on the decals I screwed up on the bottom of the nacelles while saucer was drying. Few masking issues - repainted the base color in/on over spray areas. Basically I just have a few odds and ends left before applying grid lines, final decals, weathering and sealing in dullcoat. Still working with the fit and finish of the gray spine piece for the top of the saucer. 

Anyone know the secret for applying the pencil grid lines to achieve the right distance between lines?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

That is looking pretty nice. Hull color looks right on.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Back at it for a few hours today. Finished the grid lines, decals and weathering on the saucer top. I will continue the grid lines on the saucer sides and make my way to the underside. I have tried to use a light hand on the grid lines (using a 2H drafting pencil) but had to start over a few times to get the right look. Easy to remove before sealing with soap and a wet rag. I did repaint a few light leaks around the Hanger Bay and touched up a few chips I missed the last go around. Still have a little cleaning up around the saucer pylon but nothing major. 

One issue I ran into was the boards for the bussard collectors. Each time I would run the collectors, it would take longer and longer for the boards to start to flash. A few days ago, one failed to start flashing at all. I sent them off to PL for an exchange. I should have most of the weathering done on the nacelles by the time I receive the boards. My guess is another two weeks and I can call the Big E "mission complete."

Weathering after dullcoat




Surface after decals. Ready for last coat of dullcoat.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Pretty!


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Just following your lead, Trek. Never thought of using my Tamiya Weathering Master & Stick on a science fiction model. Also thanks for the tip on the grid lines - my problem was keeping the pencil tip sharp, which you warned me to watch. Broke out the old school Boston pencil sharpener for a needle point… Problem solved.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

She does look really nice! 

Seeing these beautiful 'smoothies', almost makes me want to try one myself... almost.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

edge, do not fear the smoothie. These four items will always fix the model: money, paint, putty and duck tape.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

So true.

Modeller's mantra: Fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, prime, rinse, repeat.


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

Nice job on the weathering. Which Tamiya set did you use?


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Havok, for the "rust ring" I used a combo of AIM Products light rust and dusty brown. I used an old shaving brush and damp rag to tone down the color and then locked it in with Testors Dullcote. The other weathering was completed with Tamiya Set B & C. I basically just followed Trekkriffic's tutorial on weathering the TOS. I haven't completed weathering the Secondary Hull but I am satisfied with how the Saucer looks. The great thing about using pastels is you can wash off and start over if you run into trouble.


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## Havok69 (Nov 3, 2012)

Thanks - I'll check out his tutorial. I especially like the ability to start over with the pastels. I see myself doing that a few times before I get it "right."


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Yep, I hear ya... If you have read through my thread I have had my share of mistakes. Use a light hand and take your time. You can always go back and add more color. Like Trek, I stayed away from the green(s) and purple(s) and used metal gray, soot, white and earth.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

VERY nice work!
For you guys that added the subtle weathering i gotta give you the thumbs up:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I have a long way to go still & Am a little hesitant to go with the weathering effect..But with or without it,Will be happy if my build turns out to be a clean, Nicely lit one.

This is a whole lot of model!


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Thanks Spocks. Like I told Havok, pastels are very forgiving - you can wash off and start over if you run into trouble. A little dish soap or simple green and your back in business with a clean slate. Trouble starts with oil washes or indian ink when you have made an error. If you do not wipe it off the second you find an error, your toast. I have used speedball black Indian ink to age wood and still find pastels the better.


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## Mark2000 (Oct 13, 2013)

I like that pastels are grainy like real grime. That's what makes them head over heals better than other methods. You can't get individual particle speckling with any other method.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Ok, so life REALLY got in the way of the Enterprise. Almost complete. Have a few parts on order yet and I can call her done!





Better pictures to follow when I have all my darn parts!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice job on the weathering! Looks very familiar.


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## stryker (May 29, 2012)

Thanks Trek. The photos that you posted of your own TOS E were super helpful. My model is done, just waiting for the Engine caps and two red bridge side markers. Once I have those parts, I wrap this thread up!


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