# AFX New vs Old vs Tyco



## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

A short time ago, I started a thread asking about MaxTrax and similar offerings. Well, that thread took quite the left turn. I nonetheless appreciate all of the insights offered. It's actually helped me understand that I may have not been going in the best right direction for me.

As much as I hate the cleaning maintenance of the stock HO sets, with that one exception they ultimately do offer me what I'm looking for. I really only need a 2 lane, I want a very stock experience from a surface/rail/magnetic perspecitve, etc., and they're much cheaper.

So, altough not fully determined, I'm thinking of going stock sectional again, but with a smaller layout that will be easier to clean and maintain (though by smaller, I'm still thinking something like 4x12). 

I'm currently Tyco, but I really like some of the track that Tomy/AFX offers like the hairpin, the 90 degree crossing, etc. 

So I'm seeing that there's a newer version of Tomy/AFX. What's the difference? How can I tell visually when looking at track sections in eBay? Is the newer really preferable to the old? Is there truly a distinction any more between Tomy and AFX?

Thanks, guys!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I am not sure if you are requesting an understanding of the difference between Aurora AFX and Tomy AFX or if there is a second generation of TOMY AFX track that you need comparison ratings for. 
there is a new track being produced by Auto World which is compatible to TOMY AFX track but is a lesser quality in material and manufacture!


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Whew, where to start...
There are several threads comparing each of these tracks, the advantages, and short comings of each.
Here's an overview of what I've learned personally and reading opinions here.

New AFX (*Tomy*)
My current home layout is made using Tomy track.








_Advantages_
-By far, the most selection of turns from any manufacturer. http://afxracing.com/t/categories/tracks
-The zig zag spring rail at each end keeps good continuity through the track rails.
-Deep slot allows all kinds of HO slot cars to be run on it.
-Higher resale value than other comparable brands of track.
-Great starter layouts available. (4-way split, Super International) http://afxracing.com/t/categories/sets
-The favorite choice among most home build tracks for these reasons.

_Short falls_
-Uneven rail heights and warped track sections make this a pain to layout 4 or more lanes.
-Track really needs to be modified before install by grinding the lock tabs off of each track.
Why? Because the track moves so much that the locking tabs become undone, 
creating a bump at the track joints.
-Those zig zag rail ends are great for continuity, but, if not flush, can catch a sliding
cars shoe in the turn and stop it cold, or flip it. This makes those 6" 1/8 turns hard to
deal with if you are driving a tjet or HP7.
-Track design has alot of slots and holes at each joint.

_I read somewhere that Racemasters(Tomy) was about to retool the track sections,
so most of these problems will hopefully go away._

Old *AFX* (by Aurora)
We used this years ago to build a track, and have enough to build another, maybe soon.









_Advantages_
-It's cheap, and there's a lot of it out there.
-It seems to have been built more precisely.
-Once those slide joints are locked, this track joint isn't going anywhere.
-Great selection of turns, and some neat trick tracks, especially for two lane layouts.
-Deep slot allows all kinds of HO slot cars.
-Track joints can be easily soldered for permanent layouts.
-Rail height seems to be very consistent.

_Short falls_
-Once that slide lock breaks, there's almost no saving it.
-If track maintenance is needed, it's very hard to get a section apart without damaging other track.
-This track is dated and mostly used, so cracked or brittle sections are not uncommon.

_On both AFX and Tomy, you have a narrow lane spacing that was originally designed for Tjets.
This lane spacing may cause problems with some kinds of slot cars._

*Tyco*, and now Mattel
It is important to mention the differences between Tyco and Mattel track.
These tracks are compatible with each other. Tyco track has a straight rail joint on each
end, and has a thumb pressed lock which requires additional slots in the track at the joints.
The Mattel track is much improved over the Tyco. It has a spring loaded rail joint for
much better continuity, and the track lock is unlocked from under the track, leaving no 
holes or slots on the track surface at the joints, much like the old AFX track.
Mattel does label there tracks with a raised letter, which is annoying.

Through the years, we have built several Tyco tracks, including Larry's Magnum...









and my recent Thunderbird Speedway...









_Advantages_
-It's Tyco, the best name in slot car racing. _(ooo that sounds biased)_
-By far, the smoothest track joints, right out of the box.
-Wider lane spacing, this track was designed for 64th scale cars.
-It's straight. Short sentence, but it means alot.
-It's cheap, and there's alot of it out there.
-available in different colors, for different race settings.
-some neat trick tracks and race accessories available.

_Short falls_
-Has a shallow slot, so some modifications or swapping of guide pins may be needed for some cars.
-The straight rails at the joint provide the most rail contact in theory, but need a lot of
tweaking to keep continuity throughout the layout. _Unless you're using all Mattel track_
-Small selection of turns limit layout designs.

Another track worth mentioning is *Marchon*.
They use a spring loaded rail with a track joint that looks like a combo of Tomy and Carrera _GO_.
I have some I intend to use for a two lane layout. _(only 9" turns available in Marchon)_

Hope this helps.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

Thanks, guys. Especially you, NTx; that post should be a sticky!


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## BewstdGT (Jan 4, 2005)

I was in the same situation a few years back and came asking similar questions. Ultimately I ended up with Tyco track because it was easier to find track for online (craigslist & ebay), wider sections so cars don't constantly knock eachother off, and as said it's pretty smooth. I like the Tomy AFX stuff too but when I built mind those pieces were more costly. Unlike the AFX stuff, the tyco 6,9,12,15 turns all fit together very well if you expand to a 4 lane, which I'm finding out right now. To each his own, but for a cheapskate tyco is the pipedream. I bought a box with over 250 pieces for $110 shipped off ebay and I had tons of pieces left after building my 2-lane 4x10 track. Good luck with whatever you choose and have fun!


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*A great read*



Peacefield said:


> Thanks, guys. Especially you, NTx; that post should be a sticky!


Agreed. Well done Rich!

I laughed....I cried....I couldnt put it down   :freak:


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Ditto Rich. Great post!!


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

That is a really great summary Rich. You hit just about every major talking point on each brand, except Lifelike. But no one who wants to go four lanes, or have varied turn sizes can seriously consider Lifelike. Plus, Lifelike has electric connections similar to old AFX and MM track, which I believe is the worst way to do it.

For myself, I went with Tyco. Main reason - even lane spacing (and price). As mentioned above, Tyco/Mattel track can be found in bulk lots. And used lots are usually very inexpensive. The money saved on buying the common pieces can be used to buy the more expensive pieces (6, 12 and 15" curves).

The biggest factor to consider when buying a plastic track is whether or not you want even lane spacing. This is the one unalterable characteristic of the track. Tyco/Mattel and Lifelike use even lane spacing. Aurora and Tomy do not - lanes 1 and 2 will be closer together than Tyco/Lifelike and there will be more space between lanes 2-3.

Be aware, if you plan to use standard plastic guard rail, it will be closer to the outside lane on Tyco/Lifelike than on Tomy. With the guardrail closer to the lane, there is not as much room for the car to "wiggle" before it starts riding the guardrail. Is that extra room important? I don't know, it's just an observation.

Personally, I have a layout with all Mattel track and have not had one broken/loose electrical contact since assembling the track about 4-5 years ago. I did take the time to grind down the raised letter however; this can be done fairly quickly once you're all set up.

On the curve sizes, Tomy gives you a 3" and 18" curve, along with a 12" bank curve. These are sizes you cannot get with Tyco/Mattel. If you want to use those curves, you'll either need to use all Tomy track or buy Tomy-Tyco adapters from Lifelike.

If you want the deeper slot, you have to use Tomy. The only stock guide pin that is too long for Tyco track (that I know of) are the blade pins on Aurora AFX and Auto World XTs. I think stock pins on Tomy Turbos and G-Plus are short enough to use on Tyco track.

But here is the biggest point - for the most part, Mattel isn't producing any more track. So If you go down the Tyco/Mattel road, you have to either get the track from auctions, flea markets or vendors who still carry old stock.

Thanks...Joe


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## gomanvongo (Jun 12, 2010)

Grandcheapskate said:


> That is a really great summary Rich. You hit just about every major talking point on each brand, except Lifelike. But no one who wants to go four lanes, or have varied turn sizes can seriously consider Lifelike. Plus, Lifelike has electric connections similar to old AFX and MM track, which I believe is the worst way to do it.


shoot! and i went and built a 4 lane with life-like. Oh, well - good thing it's not serious!








[/IMG]

I did it 'cause it was the type of track I came across most at yard sales and fleamarkets up here in the great white north - only a couple of turn radius options, but with a 4 way intersection in the middle, this track can be a lot of fun with 4 cars running at once (or even just one cruising!).

If i did it all over again i'd go with something different - to give me more turn options, but overall LifeLike has been reasonably easy to run and maintain - even with a weird and complex layout like mine! (built by a weird and complex guy!) 

I've been collecting other types of track, and can say that the coolest lock mechanism has got to be Marchon/Artin. I've only got one small set, so I didn't know about the limited turn options - but that track hookup seems bulletproof for reliability!


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

I placed my order for a collection of AFX/Tomy track. I'll upload a jpg of my layout later. 

It's going to be a 4x12. Since I run a little of everything, I wanted the layout to be as universally driveable as possible. So where I started by designing with two hairpins and a bunch of 6"'ers, having read what a problem they can be for some cars, I made some changes. I got rid of all the 6" turns and kept only one hairpin (because I do think it's going to be cool/fun) but placed within easy reach of the driver stations so it's not that big a deal to push along the few cars that might not be able to negotiate it. I'm leaving enough open space so that if I have to I can reconfigure just that spot with some 9"ers if it doesn't work well. And no banked curves; as much as they're fun, I have too many older/slower TJ's that just roll off them.

I also put in one 90 crossing. When I got my first MM as a child in 1965, it had a crossing with a traffic light and timer. Always thought that was pretty cool so this is going in for nostalgic purposes. I may even put in a traffic light.

I expect the track will be pretty quick. A long front strait (of course), a number of short straights that are still long enough to hit the gas hard, and 9, 12, 15, and 18 inch curves. Mostly 18's, some leading right into the front straight; should be fun.

Thanks for all the insights!

Edit: Here's a jpg of the layout:


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## GTHobbyandRaceway (Nov 23, 2011)

Here's my four lane Lifelike oval built over the last two nights.. 

Cant see too good in the pic but I notched out track for the lap counters to nestle into the adjacent lane. worked out pretty good, I ended up with very little gap between..
my nephew and I had some good racing going on last night. 
I will hard-wire everything over the weekend and do driver stations with Parma econo 45 ohm controllers. I will wire for braking now for future use when I start doing actual races in the new year at my shop. by then Id like to have a 4 lane Tomy road course and drag strip


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

Does the dog do circles chasing cars? A couple of years ago my buddy had his dog over for race night. He couldn't see the cars but hearing them zipping around put him into a frenzy of barking and jumping. The dog was a small german shepard mix. He found a spot where he could put his paws up on the table and cause trouble so we put a chair in front of the spot to keep him away. BAD move. Next thing I know I have a dog ON TOP of my layout like Godzilla terrorizing the neighborhood and biting slot cars. It was worth a laugh but could have turned into a bad scene quickly.


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## GTHobbyandRaceway (Nov 23, 2011)

he doesnt care for the cars much but I have an MTH O gauge under the tree with complete christmas scenery.. trees, power poles, streets, sidewalks.. the whole nine.
But at any rate I have a Toy Story Buzz and Woody hand-pump car.. when that thing gets goin he freaks the hell out.. I think its how buzz and woody actually pumping the car cause he could care less for the train or the slot cars when they are running.. funny as hell but he destroys my scene so I take the good with the bad. My cat Lucy though goes ape for the cars. especially my carerra 1/32 really big so she could see it and attack.. the HO too fast for her


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

gomanvongo said:


> shoot! and i went and built a 4 lane with life-like. Oh, well - good thing it's not serious!
> 
> I did it 'cause it was the type of track I came across most at yard sales and fleamarkets up here in the great white north - only a couple of turn radius options, but with a 4 way intersection in the middle, this track can be a lot of fun with 4 cars running at once (or even just one cruising!).
> 
> ...


That is one nice looking setup. So, I stand corrected - you can create a nice four lane layout using Lifelike if you have imagination.

But it does limit you to all 90 degree turns and 9" / 12" curves, with the 12" curves only available banked (not flat). I do remember seeing some 9" 1/8 curves in some older Lifelike sets although I can't remember if they were flat or banked - I think they were banked.

However, I think you'd agree that if you were starting from scratch and wanted to go four (or more lanes), Lifelike would not be your first choice for four lanes and would be out of consideration for 6 or more lanes if you wanted to go with nested curves. If LL were to make a few extra curve sizes, then we'd have to reevaluate their viability and quality.

Joe


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## gomanvongo (Jun 12, 2010)

i agree fully, Joe. As i said, the choice was originally made based on availability and economy. As the track has grown i've found that lifelike has it's shortcomings (poor connections, break-away locking tabs) - but it's still a heck of a lot of fun!

I really like the newer style afx - it feels really solid, but think that i'd probably go with the tyco/mattel, for the even lane spacing and corner options - plus it's not hard to come by in big bunches for cheap!

does tyco have a 4-way intersection though?...

j


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I've been racing on heavily used Tomy tracks that are 15+ years old and they are durable and reliable. The lane spacing thing is a total non-issue and never comes into play with cars that pass through the tech block. The availability of new track pieces, electrical reliability, flexible corner selection options, and deep slot of Tomy simply blows every other set track vendor out of the water. I have a lot of A/FX and Magnatraction cars with the guide blades, not to mention modern magnet cars with standard length pins that are too long for Tyco, and trimming pins to run on Tyco is simply an annoyance because you cannot reverse it. The difference in the Tyco rails versus Tomy throws off my setups. When I find out I'm going to be running on a Tyco track it's always a bit of a letdown and added distraction. Get the Dremel ready. But I have colleagues who like Tyco, so it has its supporters even if I am not one of them.

The Tomy track is also backed by a vendor (RaceMasters) who is still in business and can support you with any issues that arise. I like giving my money to people who still actively invest and participate in the hobby in a very big way like RaceMasters does. They are one of us and I appreciate that a great deal.


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## BewstdGT (Jan 4, 2005)

That was quick! You'll soon get sick of the oval and want to go bigger. But that's what adapters are for. You can adapt to just about any other brand to get the custom turn radius pieces you need.

I just received a bunch of new tyco/matell pieces from Joe (grandcheapskate) and the ability to use brand new 6" and 15" radius turns is fantastic. So thanks to Joe for investing his own time and money into making these custom sizes.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

gomanvongo said:


> does tyco have a 4-way intersection though?...
> j


 Yeah, they did, although it hasn't been produced for well over at least a decade. Except for....

The Battle Slam set is great if you like Tyco track since it contained a lot of single lane track. In this set, Mattel put in two really neat intersection pieces. One was a single lane intersection. The other was a two lane intersection which had single lanes feeding into it. You can easily use the two lane intersection with regular track by attaching single lane adapters on all four both ends.

It's a shame Mattel produced some really great pieces only in one set. The Battle Slam set has these intersection (and single lane) pieces, the Tech Race Set has a more modern computer center, the Harry Potter set has a 3" straight and the NASCAR Showdown and Super Sound (Tyco) set contain a pit road turnoff. None of these pieces ever appeared individually or in another set.

Joe


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

BewstdGT said:


> I just received a bunch of new tyco/matell pieces from Joe (grandcheapskate) and the ability to use brand new 6" and 15" radius turns is fantastic. So thanks to Joe for investing his own time and money into making these custom sizes.


Thanks Dan, glad they got there okay. It's too bad the 6" and 15" did not sell as quickly as I had hoped. Had I recovered my investment sooner (I am still waiting), an 18" and 21" curve were on the drawing board. Of course, they probably wouldn't have been made since Mattel stopped producing slot car set and cars right around the time I had the older curves made.

Joe


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Man, what a wicked set up that Battle Slam set is!! Sorry, the auction is over, but it does show a good picture of the intersections.. Hope the link works!!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-TY...170733084641?pt=Slot_Cars&hash=item27c07c1fe1

If I was a kid now, I'd be all over this one!!


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## Black Oxxpurple (Jul 3, 2011)

do two seperate intersetions with seperate cirlces for both lanes and have each crossing to its two lanes seperate of each other.


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## bemoore (Dec 23, 2008)

After collecting a bunch of Tyco track from yard sales for basically free, I built a 4 lane 4 x 8 layout with a regulated power supply and driver's stations. Probably about 25' long. One power tap. I deoxidized each rail and contact, bent each contact for more contact pressure, and used Rail Zip on all the contacts. I STILL had power problems. At the furthest point from the tap, it seemed like only about half the power was making it to the car. And it was consistent; all 4 lanes were like that. Later, I duplicated this layout with a Tomy 2 lane setup, and without touching the rails or contacts, the power was WAY better all around the track. That, and the better selection of pieces has sold me on Tomy track. If you ever find a sectional layout at the nationals (I don't think that happens any more, but it used to), it will be Tomy. The only thing I prefer about Tyco is the lane spacing.

And I'm not anti-Tyco. In fact, the 440X2 is my favorite chassis.


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## BewstdGT (Jan 4, 2005)

bemoore said:


> At the furthest point from the tap, it seemed like only about half the power was making it to the car. And it was consistent; all 4 lanes were like that.


I had similar results, nothing as drastic as you explained though. And my track was actually 44 feet on my 2 lane track. At the farthest point from the power strip it would slow down maybe 10-15% max. But this was quickly remedied by running power wires under the table to the middle of the track so it was applying power equally. I'd recommend doing that for any track of 15-20 feet. I don't know if it makes a difference by I think the Tomy power packs were higher voltage than tyco's??


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## bemoore (Dec 23, 2008)

BewstdGT said:


> I don't know if it makes a difference by I think the Tomy power packs were higher voltage than tyco's??


I was using a regulated supply.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Please, no more Tyco bashing.
_I just can't take it._


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## bemoore (Dec 23, 2008)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Please, no more Tyco bashing.
> _I just can't take it._


Sorry. But if you have a Tyco layout that's working for you, I wouldn't worry about it. The problem with my Tyco track might have been that I had the Tyco (as opposed to the Mattel) variety. All my track came from attics & basements.


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## GTHobbyandRaceway (Nov 23, 2011)

I believe Tyco is 15 or 17 volt at around half the amperage, while Tomy boasts a whopping 22 volt 1 amp pack. Someone correct me if I made a mistake, going by memory here.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Wtg pf...*



Peacefield said:


> I placed my order for a collection of AFX/Tomy track. Edit: Here's a jpg of the layout:


*Firstly... I really like your design. It looks like a real fun drive.* :thumbsup::thumbsup: I'm a little concerned with the hairpin, but try to live with it for awhile before you finalize the layout design. I've had as many as 5 in a layout and they are fine with tjets, but AW-JL Xtracs and older AFX are a bit hit and miss through them. You run your stuff through it and decide if it works for you. My overall .02 is that you've made the right decision on brands. I'm on my 4th "permanent" layout with Tomy track. Many pieces in my current layout were glued down on the first 3. It's good tuff stuff. Every brand has it's quirks. Yes, you will have to remove the nubs (but only 1 side not both) where the pieces meet on the Tomy. It's not like being on a chain gang doing road work though... have a seat and use a Dremel. It provides for a really smooth course. I even took fine sandpaper to areas in the slots where maybe another guy would not have not cared, but I felt there was some flash present or a click or clack that was possible to quiet and I really wanted to dial it in as best as I could. All brands need tweaks. As soon as you start incorporating elevations and going off the menu in your design, with any brand, you will create anomalies in the layout that are "unplanned". The only way to avoid that is by doing only perfectly flat layouts or just what is shown on the box. I'm very pleased with Tomy and would never look to another brand unless I stepped up to a Max or similar. Plus with active manufacturing going on, retooling planned for the pieces, and even a consideration for a new dark grey color in the future... I see no other choice for me on the market to sway my mind.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

The stock Tomy power supply is a 7VA unregulated unit so you get a maximum of about 0.3 amps at 22 volts. To get a 1 amp unit from Tomy you will have to upgrade to the tri-voltage product.


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## Peacefield (Jan 22, 2008)

tjd241 said:


> *I'm a little concerned with the hairpin, but try to live with it for awhile before you finalize the layout design.*


*

Well, indeed, I didn't even have to live with it for a while. Too many cars failed to navigate it so back it went. A shame as it should be such a fun and cool bit of track. So I replaced that section with a wide sweeping curve that gradually steps up from a 9 to a 12 to a 15 to an 18" radius. Should be fun to run, but geez, I wish that hairpin would've worked.*


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## GTHobbyandRaceway (Nov 23, 2011)

AfxToo said:


> The stock Tomy power supply is a 7VA unregulated unit so you get a maximum of about 0.3 amps at 22 volts. To get a 1 amp unit from Tomy you will have to upgrade to the tri-voltage product.


yes I should have mentioned that, I was referring to that pack at the 1 amp rating. I was unsure of the normal packs amperage.

I received a text early this morning from the wife. fedex was there 8 am with my AFX Super International set. I can't even concentrate at work, want to go home badly and play with my new "toy"! I have 12 - 15" straight on order from the flea, and some other afx lot im bidding on to get some different curves and more straight and a universal laptop power supply comin from amazon:

Universal Laptop AC Adapter/Power Supply/Charger+US Power Cord this AC Adapter will automatically regulated the amps down with the Voltage Setting and ensure your laptop is working and protected.
Multiple Voltages Options so you can use this Universal AC Adapter with different Laptops:
Input Voltage: 100-240V (input frequency: 47-63Hz)
Output power: 90W
Switchable Voltage Options:
DC15V 6A(MAX);
DC16V 5.6A(MAX);
DC18V or 18.5V 5A(MAX);
DC19V or 19.5V 4.7A(MAX);
DC20V 4.5A(MAX);
DC22V 4.1A(MAX);
DC24V 3.8A(MAX);
Efficiency: >88% (TYP)
Line regulation: +- 5%

the tips are for different connections not like the voltage tips some other brands offer, its switchable on the pack itself

Sound good enough anyone? Ill get 5 amp per lane at 18.5v correct?.. power and wiring confuses me slightly, it was never my strong-suit, up till now I only used wallpaks. at $8.65/$15 shipped. If no good I at least didnt waste much money pus I have an extra charger for my laptop


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Peacefield said:


> Well, indeed, I didn't even have to live with it for a while. Too many cars failed to navigate it so back it went. A shame as it should be such a fun and cool bit of track. So I replaced that section with a wide sweeping curve that gradually steps up from a 9 to a 12 to a 15 to an 18" radius. Should be fun to run, but geez, I wish that hairpin would've worked.


 As was probably pointed out earlier in this thread, whenever the choice of track is debated, someone will state that Tomy "has a lot more turn options". In truth, there are three turn radii Tomy makes and not available from Tyco/Mattel - 3" (180 degree), 12" 1/8 bank and 18" 1/8. Of those three, most people won't go near the 3" turn (or sometimes the 6" curve) and probably don't have (or their club does not allow) any banked curves. So the only real extra turn option you get is the 18" curve.

Don't get me wrong, it's a great option to have. But it is not the plethora of additional options that the "more turn options" statement would imply.

But you can't go wrong with choosing Tomy. Right now, it's the only viable choice if you are starting from scratch.

Joe


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## bemoore (Dec 23, 2008)

Grandcheapskate said:


> As was probably pointed out earlier in this thread, whenever the choice of track is debated, someone will state that Tomy "has a lot more turn options". In truth, there are three turn radii Tomy makes and not available from Tyco/Mattel - 3" (180 degree), 12" 1/8 bank and 18" 1/8. Of those three, most people won't go near the 3" turn (or sometimes the 6" curve) and probably don't have (or their club does not allow) any banked curves. So the only real extra turn option you get is the 18" curve.
> 
> Don't get me wrong, it's a great option to have. But it is not the plethora of additional options that the "more turn options" statement would imply.
> 
> ...


Not exactly. In Tyco, 9"curves are plentiful, 12" curves are fairly plentiful, but 15" curves were hard to find, and even when Tyco track was still in production, 6" curves weren't available. I found a couple from someone's old stock. The Tyco 6" curves are 90° while the Tomy 6" curves are 45°. So, even back when Tyco was in production, Tomy was more available in more sizes.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Why?
If you are trying to make a 90º or 180º turn with those Tomy 6" 45º turns, 
you are going to be disappointed. In my opinion, they are just barely usable.
If you are running a track with these turns, you will have to set your car up just
to accommodate so may zig zag rails, usually uneven, in such a short section.
Tjets, Magnatractions, and HP7s have a hard time with the joints because they slide so easy.
It's not that they can't be made better, but in an environment with wide temp swings, 
they will never stay smooth. We have a track with these turns in our arsenal. After
15 years of running on this track, we still work on this corner with the Tomy 6" turns.

The Tyco 90º 6" turns are a completely different story, smooth, consistent.
The quality of a Tomy 6" turn does not compare to Tycos.
But, yes, Tyco did not offer this turn in a 45º.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

bemoore said:


> Not exactly. In Tyco, 9"curves are plentiful, 12" curves are fairly plentiful, but 15" curves were hard to find, and even when Tyco track was still in production, 6" curves weren't available. I found a couple from someone's old stock. The Tyco 6" curves are 90° while the Tomy 6" curves are 45°. So, even back when Tyco was in production, Tomy was more available in more sizes.


I had Tyco compatible 6" 1/8 and 15" 1/8 curves made about 8 years ago and they are still easily available. Tyco itself never made a 15" curve and you are correct in that Tyco only made the 6" in 1/4 size.

Thanks...Joe


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Why?
> If you are trying to make a 90º or 180º turn with those Tomy 6" 45º turns,
> you are going to be disappointed. In my opinion, they are just barely usable.
> If you are running a track with these turns, you will have to set your car up just to accommodate so may zig zag rails, usually uneven, in such a short section.
> ...


I think the 6" curves in 1/8 intervals are always going to be your worst performer simply because of the sharpness of the turn and having so many joints in so little area. With the Tyco 6" we made, I found the only issue on a turn that size is the slot joints, not the rails. You have to work a little to get the slot joint smooth, but it can be done. When I made them, I figured the 1/8 turn gave you more options, but it does give you a lot of joints especially if you put 4 of them together.

Joe


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

GTHobbyandRaceway said:


> yes I should have mentioned that, I was referring to that pack at the 1 amp rating. I was unsure of the normal packs amperage.
> 
> I received a text early this morning from the wife. fedex was there 8 am with my AFX Super International set. I can't even concentrate at work, want to go home badly and play with my new "toy"! I have 12 - 15" straight on order from the flea, and some other afx lot im bidding on to get some different curves and more straight and a universal laptop power supply comin from amazon:
> 
> ...


That's funny- like a kid sitting in school filled with anxiety over his toys waiting at home. 

That power supply would seem adequate as long as the amp rating isn't "VA". However the amp rating will be divided with more than one car running, so it won't be 5 amps per lane. With 4 cars running you'd probably have closer to 1 amp per lane, figuring a little resistance along the way.


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## GTHobbyandRaceway (Nov 23, 2011)

Oh I didn't realize amperage was divided out. thanks for the info Slott. At that price ill run one per Lane if thats the case. 15 shipped = 60 bucks for individual Lane power, can't beat it!


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

> Ill get 5 amp per lane at 18.5v correct?.


It's right on the edge, should be close but still more than adequate for your needs.

For a DC output power supply driving a purely resistive load the VA rating and the rating in watts are the same. The term VA stands for volt-amps, or volts times amps, which is the formula for electrical power (P) in watts. 

P = V x A

The power supply you give the specs for is rated at 90W. If you multiple 18.5 times 5 you get 92.5 watts which is 2.5 watts above the rated capacity of the power supply. The result is that you'll get slightly less current. If the power supply is tightly regulated and holds the voltage at 18.5 then you'll get 90/18.5 = 4.86 amps assuming the load is purely resistive. 

Why do I keep mentioning "purely resistive?" I do this because a slot car motor is not purely resistive. Yes, the windings do have a resistance. This is the "ohm" rating that slot car people are so keenly aware of. However, a spinning brushed electrical motor has alternating current (AC) flowing in the armature windings. This AC is the current change that occurs when the motor windings are charging and discharging the magnetic field that interacts with the fixed pole magnets to create the torque that the armature provides to spin the motor. This AC results in the load seen by the power supply being reactive rather than resistive. 

The difference between a resistive load and a reactive load creates a condition called "apparent power." What this means in real life terms is that you are losing some of the maximum potential power because the current and voltage of the AC are no longer in phase. This misalignment between AC voltage and current is a ratio called "power factor." The power factor reduces the maximum usable power output of the power supply when it is driving reactive loads. The net result is that you may get even less current. How much less depends on the power factor of the power supply. Some power supplies have power factor correction circuitry to eliminate these power factor related losses. For electrical motors the power factor correction is usually done with capacitors because capacitors have the exact opposite reactance effect as inductors do and motor windings are inductors. Inductors (motor windings) cause the current to lag behind the voltage while capacitors cause the current to advance ahead of the voltage. 

Power factor correction is not a concern for our little toys but it is a huge concern for anyone who has a lot of inductive equipment like motors and transformers, like factories. The net result is if your power supply is not power factor corrected you will get evan a little less usable power from it. If the power supply is rated both in VA and in watts and the two are different, the lower number of the two is the ultimate limitation. So that's all you really know or care (or want to know) about watts and VAs. There's sometimes a reason for things being specified a certain way.

The bottom line here is the fact that you'll get something less than 5 amps should not concern you. Most stock HO slot cars pull less than 0.5 amps under steady state racing conditions and run very well with just 1 amp being available.


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