# JL Question



## cagee (Apr 20, 2007)

I've got 2 JLTO chassis just recently and they have given me a major problem. They sound like gears slipping for a little bit then straightens out and runs good and then will sound like slipping again. I've done everything i could think of I removed the armature gear pressed it back on straight, shaved down the pin on the idler gear and pressed clamp down tighter, took the slack out of the pinion gear and made sure it meshed good with the crown gear but it still does the same thing any advice would be helpful thanks.


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

Wow, sorry both of your chassis still slip after doing the tweaks you mentioned. I never had that problem after fixing those problems. 

Only thing left would be to replace the crown gears on your chassis. The may have too small a bushing on them.


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I have one chassis I got in Aw r1 where the pinion gear that meshes with the crown is drilled off center and once it get going it runs pretty good, but if I stop with the gear in the wrong position it slips to the point that it won't go at all,


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## cagee (Apr 20, 2007)

micyou03 said:


> I have one chassis I got in Aw r1 where the pinion gear that meshes with the crown is drilled off center and once it get going it runs pretty good, but if I stop with the gear in the wrong position it slips to the point that it won't go at all,


YOU MAY BE RIGHT CAUSE IT SOMETIMES DOES NOT GO AT ALL JUST SLIPS I NEVER EVEN THOUGHT OF THAT BUT YOU'RE PROBABLY RIGHT.


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

cagee said:


> I've got 2 JLTO chassis just recently and they have given me a major problem. They sound like gears slipping for a little bit then straightens out and runs good and then will sound like slipping again. I've done everything i could think of I removed the armature gear pressed it back on straight, shaved down the pin on the idler gear and pressed clamp down tighter, took the slack out of the pinion gear and made sure it meshed good with the crown gear but it still does the same thing any advice would be helpful thanks.


I think you should e-maill AW and ask them for another LOL!
I am sure there answer would be if you don't like it dont buy anymore!
Good Luck, sorry you are having trouble.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Lemee' talk to the car. LOL! Sorry, Car shop humor.  

Is the gear plate "sway backed"? Seen a lot of that over the years! 

Check your gear plate, index tabs and chassis for flash where they mate. Make sure they meet correctly when assembled. IE: Flat! Shave or file for a proper fit. Check that the gearplate doesnt torque vertically under load. Adjust the clamp if it does.

Hows the side to side slop/clearance on the crown gear with the gearplate installed? A shim on the backside may be in order. Try an aftermarket crown gear with more defined teeth.

If all else fails pound some brass gears into them and be done with it once and for all! :thumbsup: 

Good luck :wave:


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*For me...*



Bill Hall said:


> If all else fails pound some brass gears into them and be done with it once and for all!


... a similar/less frustrating chassis solution can be found in a brown cardboard case of 100 (minus the pounding). 

:dude: 

nuther dave


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Slop-o-rama*



tjd241 said:


> ... a similar/less frustrating chassis solution can be found in a brown cardboard case of 100 (minus the pounding).
> 
> :dude:
> 
> nuther dave


ND, I concede! Wish I could drop some change on a master case! ....But then Robin would ensure that my byline would read just plane "Murdered" instead of "Model Murdering"! 

Probably a waste of perfectly good brass, but I did a few with good results and sold them off.

Like Swamper Gene, (think it was Gene) I don't see the axle hole problem as that big an issue. Unless your seriously trying to shave laptimes. Then one has to use Mic's CA repair trick. I reckon it's about runners and racers and where you draw the line.

Regardless, I've got plenty of ancient slop axle T-jets that rip down the track without a twitch. What they all have in common is a smooth running, properly aligned gear train. Most of them just needed a little buff to remove the burrs. 

IMHO: Arguably the advent of plastic gears lightens the load and increases overall response, but the lightened gear train tends to remove the flywheel effect that the old setup possessed. This is further aggravated by the jumbo pinion gear and Tuff Ones wheel diameter. Combined it makes for a light twitchy setup that lacks any lug. 

I LMAO every time I see those plastic gears floating and wobbling around like a child's toy top ready to fall over. Take an honest look at profile of today's TP-Jet gear teeth. snicker. Do those toothless nags look anything like their sharp toothed, flat edged, AFX forefathers? Duuuuuh.... the slop exceeds the thickness of the tooth. Very "disengaging"!

I just don't have the interest anymore in trying to fuss with plastic mechanicals. Just an old 9 tooth, brass geared dinosaur I guess.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*No big spender here...*

I only pick up new NOS' a couple here a couple there (from out of those wonderful brown cardboard cases). Actually, most of my chassis are rescued from underneath antique bodies that caught my eye or were a good deal at a show. Part of me just lacks the wherewithal to fiddle on the plastic ones and the other part thinks I shouldn't have to (heck they're brand new!). It still escapes me how easily a years old crudded up brass geared NOS chassis cleans up and runs like a top. Yet *some* brand new plastic geared chassis I've ended up with just defy any attemps to straighten up and fly right. I salute the guys who have mastered them. I've just never come close. nd


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## T-Jet Racer (Nov 16, 2006)

dont see too many nos around reh sold out


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## coach61 (Sep 6, 2004)

T-Jet Racer said:


> dont see too many nos around reh sold out


Drag still has some, as far as I know give him a call he'll fix ya up I bought most of mine off Ed and still have a few spares but saving them for a pet project I have on the go. ( with the other 12 dozen projects..)


Dave


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## cagee (Apr 20, 2007)

micyou03 said:


> I have one chassis I got in Aw r1 where the pinion gear that meshes with the crown is drilled off center and once it get going it runs pretty good, but if I stop with the gear in the wrong position it slips to the point that it won't go at all,


That was the problem. It's a runner now. Thanks for the help.


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

tjd241 said:


> I only pick up new NOS' a couple here a couple there (from out of those wonderful brown cardboard cases). Actually, most of my chassis are rescued from underneath antique bodies that caught my eye or were a good deal at a show. Part of me just lacks the wherewithal to fiddle on the plastic ones and the other part thinks I shouldn't have to (heck they're brand new!). It still escapes me how easily a years old crudded up brass geared NOS chassis cleans up and runs like a top. Yet *some* brand new plastic geared chassis I've ended up with just defy any attemps to straighten up and fly right. I salute the guys who have mastered them. I've just never come close. nd



Gotta love the original T-Jet chassies. There's one sitting in someone's attic or basement right now that hasn't run in 40 years. But if you rescued it and cleaned and tuned it. It would run like new.

In Greenburg's Guide to Aurora Slot Cars it makes mention of one of the workers going to Switzerland to get good quality brass gears. Randy.


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

Cagee, you should buy some arms/gearplates that has all the gears. It's always good to get spare parts for when you come across a chassis with bad parts. If you're feeling lucky, check e-bay.........lots of listing for complete geaplates, like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AW-H-O-PARTS-3-MOTOR-ASSEMBLIES-3-BARE-CHASSIS_W0QQitemZ130125160170QQihZ003QQcategoryZ2619QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or try:


http://www.jaghobbies.com
http://www.budshocars.com


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## afxgns (Jul 6, 2006)

"Gotta love the original T-Jet chassies. There's one sitting in someone's attic or basement right now that hasn't run in 40 years. But if you rescued it and cleaned and tuned it. It would run like new"

As many of you know. I run with the MAHOR group. this year at THE FRAY , I ran a car on the M/M tracks that I resurected from an ebay buy.
It was an old chassis with solid rivets and a white crown.
I beat Don Bourne TWICE on the pink table, and finished 2nd twice against the best t-jets in the country. With the other two races being taken out of,and recovering to a 3rd place. These old chassis are the bomb, eat them up if you can get them :thumbsup: 

Tim Leppert


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Who has the best chassis price?*

I see these (new) for sale for as much as $15... Aside from a yard sale, slot show, or flea market resurection, I wonder where the best deal (NOS) can be had? Anybody have a good/reasonable $$ source?... Do tell. dave


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

tjd241 said:


> I see these (new) for sale for as much as $15... Aside from a yard sale, slot show, or flea market resurection, I wonder where the best deal (NOS) can be had? Anybody have a good/reasonable $$ source?... Do tell. dave


When you consider the alternative. Get them while you still can at any price! I'm even hording junkers these days.


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

Bud's HO has them for $10 each or (10) for $90

http://www.budshocars.com/


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

Do you know if what Bud's sells is just pulled straight out of a case or if they've been cherry picked at all?

I've bought items from Bud's in the past and he's always been great, i've just bought t-jet chassis from other folks and it's been pretty obvious that they have gone through the cars and given out the leftovers.


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I have no idea, but the ones I have bought did not appear to be run. I also don't think Rob would have any reason to pick through them.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*thanks MIC...*

Great tip on the chassis. A hobby shop near you (Branford) has a few on pegs for $14.99 or so. Online at one place I saw $12.97 for any type tjet chassis, lighted/Indy/Buggy/slimline/or regular, $15.97 for Wild Ones, and if you can believe it ... $35.97 for a Tough Ones :freak: .... Be still my heart. nd


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I used to pay $40 for tuffones chassis.


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

I have never even had the slighest hint of a problem when dealing with Rob at Bud's... He's first cals all the way!


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## A/FX Nut (May 28, 2004)

I've dealt with Bud in the past. Like Video Jimmy said, " He's first class all the way. " 

He's too busy filling orders to pick through NOS T-Jet chassies too get the best ones. But never too busy to answer a question over the phone. Randy.


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## mamilligan (Feb 1, 2003)

I have dealt with Buds first at shows and then through the mail for over 10 years. I have yet to have a bad transaction. I go to him first for most slot items.


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I like Bud's too.


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## RacerDave (Mar 28, 2006)

It's unanimous then. I have never had a problem with Bud's either. Always great fast friendly service. Dave.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Dont forget his rocket delivery service!


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I've ordered stuff from him at 3:30 PM and gotten my stuff the next day.


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