# New track going up



## alpineracer8 (Feb 9, 2009)

Hey, guys:

I posted as a newbie quite a few months ago about building a new track. I was the one who was trying to get the room finished that the track was going to reside in. Well, the room is finally done!!! I've already built the 8' x 16' track board and have the basic layout pieced together on it, although I'm not finished yet. I only have enough track to make it a two lane and my plans call for a four lane. My plans were to build the track using the original "quick-lok" AFX track but I've got more broken pieces than I thought I did; hence, not enough track to finish the four lane...and I don't want to use broken track. 

Here's my question...I like the original AFX track because it's solid across the top; i.e. no weird-looking slots or openings in the track surface like the new track has. However, the new track looks like it goes together easier and gives a much smoother piece-to-piece transition. So, should I be looking for more of the original AFX track or just change course and build the whole thing out of the new generation of AFX track? Is the new track smoother than the old track? Does one conduct electricity better than the other? The track I'm going to build will have a lot of elevation change, if that makes a difference. 

By the way...the name of my track is "Meadowbrook Raceway." That was the name of the track that my parents bought me out of the Sears Christmas catalog in 1972 and it's stuck with me ever since. Every track I've built since then has been a variation on the "Meadowbrook Raceway" theme. This one's gonna top 'em all, though!!!!

Thanks for any suggestions,
Andy Walker
Edmond, OK


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Alpineracer, I built my first track from the newer Tomy it is 4 lane, approx 60ft lane length, I soldered every joint and glued the track together with a drop of super glue at the joints & lock, I also had to trim the backside of locking nub down on almost all the pieces otherwise it stuck up on the racing surface, For a plastic track, I was really happy with it, it races very well, just be ready for a little work on the joints to get them silky smooth, it just takes some patience. This track also has 3 elevation changes, one is all done in the curves just make them as gradual and as long as you can that will help avoid the start and stop bump normally associated with elevations. All in all the new Tomy track is pretty good, there are some things with the slot shape that some people dont like but I have not had any problems with this layout. This one is 5'5" x 11" 

Here is a link to my 1st track "JayBird Speedway" 

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=3621182&highlight=Boosted-Z71#post3621182

Boosted


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Search "Deckertring" here in the track forums... The stuff that Doba did with a table that size is astounding. Sadly, the table just got torn down to relocate it, but the tear down thread should be right here on page 1. If you can afford it, I would go with the new Tomy track. Besides having the luxury of 18" sweeper curves, assemble and break down is so much easier than the old snap lock type track. You're probably talking a boat load of track, so a few suggestions as far as that are:

1. Scope out the swap and sell boards. There's usually someone selling track. Buying set track is way less expensive than buying pieces. Someone is bound to have a break down of what sets contain what track. I don't, but hopefully someone has. ( I believe rolls did a breakdown ). If you don't see anyone selling, ask!! You never know!! Also, you'll get 2 or 4 cars with each set. You can always sell the extras you don't want.

2. Try out track design software to help get the basic layout down. Once you figure out how to use it, it is easier to computer generate track ideas on it than pushing puzzle pieces around. Best of all, it will give you a list of your needs. 

3. Once you settle of a plan, try it!!! BOTH WAYS!!! A track that's appealing to the eye may not be a joy to run on. There is no set formula for curves... compound curves can prove a challenge, or it can make something impossible. The only way to know is by trying it out. And like I said, run the track in both directions.

4 Scenery? That's up to you. Scenery is a lot of work, can make for harder work doing track maintenance, but can also add a lot of depth and fun to your running. It's a whole nuther world having buildings, lights, trees and greenery. It's also a lot of planning and work. Remember, 8 X 16 is HUGE!! That's a lot of scenery!!

5. Plan your track out not only for running, but also for marshalling!! You don't want twisty turnies in the middle of the layout!! Even if you can reach the center part of the track, remember in the middle of a heated race, would you want to have to wait for someone to figure out how to get your car? lol 

6. Remember lines of sight, not only for you, but if there's little ones who will be running, they have to see as much as possible. This is where the scenery takes some serious planning. With the name alpineracer, I'd say you're thinking serious elevations. I love 'em, and plan on triple layering my little table since my floor space is limited. As you move farther and farther back, if you don't keep going progressively higher, you're going to lose sight, and it's hard to drive blind. Also, keep in mind, since the table is 8', marshalling the back half will have to be done from the back edge, so a walk around is kinda necessary. Having the table on wheels can solve that problem if there's space to move it around. My last table was 11 x 11 and L shaped, and it rode on wheels, so scenery and racing could be done from both sides of the L. Also, depending on how high of an elevation change you shooting for will determine the starting height in front. Like I said, you potentially have to be able to get to deslots 4 feet from the back side.

7.Take pictures along the way!! We want to see what's cooking, and we'll be here with you for help along the way. I'm hoping you're a scenery nut like me!!

8. One more thing to keep in mind. When you do elevation changes, it messes with track length. Nothing is worse than getting through 99% of your track planning and not having stuff line up!! Just be prepared for it as you're setting up. 

Good luck with your adventure, and I hope to see lots of progress pix!! :thumbsup:


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## alpineracer8 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks, guys! I appreciate the advice as well as the pics. Yes, I've seen the "Deckertring" thread and the pictures are very informative. 

Maybe I should clear up my plans for you guys a little. I can see where someone may think that my screename of Alpineracer8 could imply that I want mountains on my scenery!! Actually, that's not what I'm going for. The screen name is a throwback to my real-time sports car racing days when I vintage raced a 1960 Sunbeam Alpine. It was car #8; hence, Alpineracer8. Actually, the theme that I'm going for is a race track circa 1969-70 located in New England in the early fall of the year; something along the lines of a Lime Rock or even a Watkins Glen, if you will. The actual layout is of my own creation, however; I'm not trying to duplicate the layout of a real track. Anyway, if you're familiar with either of those circuits, then you can kinda understand the level of elevation change I'm looking for and what kind of scenery I have in mind. My goal is to make the track look as much like a real track from my chosen time period as possible. It'll be my first real "adult" attempt at landscaping. I had a landscaped track as a kid and, even though it was pretty decent, it was nothing like what I've got in mind this time. 

As for the ergonomics of the track set up, the drivers will be seated on both sides of the track (on the 16' sides). There is room to walk around the entire track and I do not have any turns that are really difficult to reach from a marshalling standpoint. I'm sure I'll have a multitude of questions as the building of the track progresses and as soon as I have something fairly substantial to take pics of, you can bet I'll do it and get them on here. I fully expect this project to take quite a while...years, in fact...and I'm hoping that I can keep the track operational during most of the build. 

One big question I have refers to soldering all the joints together on the track. This may be a stupid question but, on a track this big, how in the world do you accomplish this? Doesn't the track sections have to be upside down to solder them together? If so, I could see soldering some sections together, but how would you accomplish doing the whole track like that? Again, I'm a newbie to this level of slot racing so I may ask some dumb questions from time to time. Please be patient with me and I appreciate all the help.

Andy
Edmond, OK


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

When I did mine I put basic sections together, like 4-5 pieces or whatever I could handle then joined the sections on the table, you have to be very careful doing it this way, when track sections are glued and soldered you loose that wiggle room in the joint, it is very easy to get out of alignment. As for soldering from the top side I used a very small round tip and placed it in the bend on the rail at the joint and placed a damp towel/sponge around the rail wherever I could and just work very careful, it is time consuming.

Boosted


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Your vision sounds great and I can't wait to see pictures :thumbsup:

I agree with Slotcarman's 8-Points - especially #3 - I was about to change my layout until I ran it in the other direction :freak:

Bob B.
Clifton Park, NY


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