# 1:16 scale General Lee Charger



## tolenmar

40% off at Hobby Lobby scored me this for a decent price:









It was either this one or a 1:24 scale version of a '68 charger. This one won out because of it's larger then normal (for me) scale, and the fact that it comes with ignition wiring and fuel hoses.

However, I'm actually strongly considering not making it into the General Lee, but some other custom design. (After all, I can get all kinds of General Lee scale cars.) In fact, I have some metalflake blue, and I'm thinking of a simple white flame job to go over that.

I haven't decided for sure yet. I haven't even cracked the plastic yet. I may look at it and decide it can only be made into the General. No matter what, I am looking forward to my first large-scale model. As with all of my other projects, pics will follow as I progress.


----------



## tolenmar

Cracked open the box, and I felt like a kid in a candy store. The engine block has the cylinders molded in. Even though we'll put the valve covers on over it. Some of the steps require me to "heat seal" pieces together. 

Now that's some attention to detail when you have to weld your model car together! This is going to be fun.


----------



## SteveR

Really? Which steps? I have the old (similar) Petty Charger, and I'm wondering if anything on that kit should be welded together.


----------



## tolenmar

In this kit, step 4. You are working on the suspension. I'm not too good with all of the technical names of the parts, but a pin passes through another piece, and you use heat to flatten the end of the pin so it doesn't come back out. Presumably, you do this on each side.

I happens again on step 9, when you start assembling the steering linkage.

I think that's the only place it happens, but is apparently so that the front wheels can pivot side to side.


----------



## SteveR

Ah, of course. Thanks.


----------



## kevman

sweet!! I have one sitting in a box somewhere, I have never been able to get to it yet. I wanted to make mine a custom one also maybe like an dark green one with steelies, but I can't find Steelies in this scale. Would love to see some more pics of the parts and the build.


----------



## tolenmar

Parts pics won't take me long to get. WIP's... well I have to start before I can provide WIP's. The only thing really missing from the kit are safety harness for the seats (which the Duke boys never used, I know...). I've entertained the idea of attempting to fabricate the extra parts to create a Daytona out of it. Considered it. Need to do some research first.


----------



## tolenmar

So here we are, the massive number of parts that come in the box:


----------



## tolenmar

Notice how on the engine block, not only are the cylinders molded in, but _so are the pistons!_

Also, I never really noticed just how simple a paint job the General really had. Of course, it has been some time since I watched the show much. It doesn't matter, though. I'm pretty sure I'm going to paint it in some other fashion. This kit would be big enough for me to try to use those temporary tattoos I've been hanging onto. 

Lots of planning to go before I make any firm decisions, though.


----------



## irishtrek

tolenmar said:


> The only thing really missing from the kit are safety harness for the seats


Try the exhaust pipe along with the gas cap that goes on the rear fender as well as seat belts.


----------



## tolenmar

Ok, here is a shot of the box with the box for my 1:25 scale Nomad, just for comparison's sake. Remember that in both cases, the body shell actually takes up the entire length of the box, and you'll get an idea of how large this kit is compared to the models I've been building in the past.









And lastly, here is a shot of the instruction book (_book,_ not sheet, it even has staples!) showing one of the "heat sealing" steps. This takes place every time one of the pegs on the front suspension goes through a hole.









The rear suspension I think articulates as well. The shocks are actually multiple pieces that you don't glue together, allowing the weight of the rear end to flex the leaf springs a bit. If I can swing it, and this model doesn't wipe me out, I think I'm going to want to stick with this scale of model. This level of detail is just too cool!


----------



## tolenmar

irishtrek said:


> Try the exhaust pipe along with the gas cap that goes on the rear fender as well as seat belts.


Those may be missing as well, if they weren't on the General. That's one of those things I'll have to look into and deal with as it comes. Maybe I can find some nice photoetched parts for those...


----------



## tolenmar

Hmmm...I could also take this in the "project car" direction...some rust, some bondo, panels that have been primed...


----------



## scottnkat

this should be fun for you!! Cool


----------



## tolenmar

irishtrek said:


> Try the exhaust pipe along with the gas cap that goes on the rear fender as well as seat belts.


It seems you are half correct here. A cursory examination of the sprue and instructions turns up a chrome piece that could well be the fuel cap, but is not mentioned anywhere in the book. It's not a perfect match, but it's pretty darn close. I'll go over the book in more detail tomorrow to be sure.

At the same time, there are in fact, no exhaust pipes at all once you get past the headers. Looks like I may have to figure out a way to model that.


----------



## 71 Charger 500

Part #225 on the chrome tree is the fuel cap. As you stated, the Duke's boys didn't use seat belts but there are 1/16 seat belt hardware kits available if I remember correctly. The exhaust pipes can be made from aluminum tubing with no problem at all. 

You have to remember, this kit came out in the mid 70's so it is 40+ years old and back at that time, the model manufacturers weren't real concerned about everything being as it should be. Lot's of things were missing from kits or liberties were taken so as to be able to use, say, a chassis for several different bodies. This same chassis in this Duke's Charger was used in three different kits, this one, the Street Machine Charger and originally in the Petty Charger. 

The Street Machine Charger has chrome side exhaust pipes that were popular on street cars in the mid 70's. The recently reissued version of the Street Machine Charger has them in it as well. It was reissued late 2011 in what they called a "One Run of Fun and Done" deal before they converted the kit back to the Petty Charger which is due for reissue this year. 

There is a resin kit with the nose, front fender scoops and the rear wing in it that is available. I have one but it doesn't have the companies name on the paperwork that is in with it. I will see if I can find the name and let you know on that. Also, there are some resin steelies available for this kit now too. I saw them on one of the NASCAR boards. I will try to find that info too.

The seat belt hardware is available from Replica's and Miniatures of Maryland. The belts themselves can be made from ribbon that you will find at Walmart in the crafts section or from Hobby Lobby or Michael's or the equivilant type store. They do not have a web site, oddly enough, but here is their contact information. Norm (the owner) probably won't answer the phone so just leave a message, Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland 317 Roosevelt Avenue Glen Burnie, MD 21061 (410) 768-3648.

Here is a guy's Fotki Photo Album that is dedicated to the Replicas and Miniatures company products, have a look and see if there is anything there that will help you out. http://public.fotki.com/crstan/replican-and-miniat/replicas-and-miniat/

Hope this helps you out some.

Mo


----------



## 71 Charger 500

Check here for some really great looking 1/16 Steelies! http://www.randyayersmodeling.com/modelingforum/viewtopic.php?t=67800&highlight=scale+wheels


Make sure you look at the bottom of this article for tips on studs and lug nuts too!

Mo


----------



## 71 Charger 500

Here is the website for the resin Daytona conversion kit. I clicked on the link for the conversion kit and it says "Not Found". Click on the Contact Info and give Ron a call and see if he still has one. It's a really nice piece! 

http://rmrresin.webs.com/nf116.htm

Mo


----------



## tolenmar

Those are awesome links, thanks so much!

As far as exhaust systems go, I have a plan to experiment with two different materials. 

The first is a plastic drinking straw. It looks about the correct scale. Fiddly to work with, especially with all of the bends an exhaust pipe has to take, but care, time and heat should do the trick.

The second is a piece of a plastic clothes hanger. Sturdier stuff, but heavier, harder to shape, and looks to me to be a bit too large-scale to make the run and look good.

I'lll let you know how the experiments go. Of course, I need to get farther along before I worry about those pieces yet. And thank you for confirming for me that #225 is the gas cap. It's not really all that authentic, being just a round disk with the hint of the catches on the side. We'll see what happens.


----------



## bert model maker

The seats are not correct as the DOH charger is a 69 & these seats are hibacks which were in the 1970 model year.


----------



## tolenmar

I decided to ask my friends and family how they'd paint the car if it were theirs, and sone of them suggested ghost stripes on the hood. Can anyone point me to a tutorial on how to create ghost stripes?

It may be beyond my meager tool collection, but I'd like to learn if I could.


----------



## irishtrek

Thanks for the info on the gas cap!! I didn't even notice that when I got this kit months ago, and if I'm not mistaken there is a ring that the gas cap sits in on the fender which can be taken care of with a piece of plastic tubing.
As for the exhaust I remembered something I read in Scale Auto Enthuiast years ago, take a length of solder and place it on the chassis bottom and bend it to shape and then heat up a length of plastic tubing and bend to match.
As for the seats just trim off the upper head rest part and scratch build a set of head rests with the correct extentions ie metal rods for the '69 Charger.


----------



## tolenmar

That solder idea is pretty cool. I'll give it a try. Thanks!


----------



## kevman

does this have actual details drum brakes ?


----------



## tolenmar

Sort of. It has drums on all four wheels, and they are chrome. But they don't have all the details under the drum. The exterior of the drums are ridged, kind of like a dime.


----------



## Mello Yello

You will have fun with this kit. Its a very nice detailed kit. I have one thats been done for awhile. Its painted the fiery orange with the black stripe along the trunk & down the rear quarters. Interior is tan. 
Goodluck with the build.


----------



## 71 Charger 500

tolenmar said:


> Those are awesome links, thanks so much!


Glad to help!

Mo


----------



## tolenmar

How many of you started a project with a specific plan, only to get as far as the basecoat and decide that it looks pretty darn good as is? That almost happened to me. I decided to start with a silver basecoat so the blue would be brighter. Here she is:


















I am going to finish it acording to the original plan, which is blue metalflak with purple stripes (which I'm going to do by spraying the stripes with more of that transparent red I used on the firetruck). But for a moment or two, I gave serious thought to stopping with it as it stands.


----------



## tolenmar

Two updates in one day? No Way!

Before I lost the light, I was able to get two coats of silver on and then one of the blue. It's actually Cobalt Blue Metallic, and I think when I'm done, she just might be the prettiest belle at the ball. Here is a shot of the metalflake blue. This time I got lucky and only had one spot to fix. Tomorrow sees her get a shot of paint over the blemish which I just sanded down.










Now, an informal sort of poll. For a while, I've been wanting to experiment with temoprary tattoos. I think if I can pull it off, it would make for great custom paint work. Up until now, though, I've never had a project that's large enough to accept the tattoos I have. So I'm tempted. I want to get a feel for what you all think. Odds are, I'll leave the tattoo off altogether, because what I have in mind is likely to be plenty enough without adding more to it. But here are a few possible options:









































This last pic needs a short word. It is silver from this view, but that's because I can't turn the tattoos over (as they would be printed on the car) since you couldn't see them through the backing. the silver is actually the lower layer and creates a matallic appearance for the snake, which is blue and green.

Thoughts?


----------



## irishtrek

I like the first, fourth and fifth tattoos. what would Bo and Luke agree on?? Hey after all it started out as the General Lee did it not??
And that blue sure is purty.


----------



## kevman

I love the flame face tattoo, you gotta use that one!

The blue looks awesome, what brand of paint did you use for the base coat and the blue ? 


Question - does the suspension actually work on this kit ? or is it glued in place?


----------



## tolenmar

Primer is Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer. This is probably overkill, but it works (for me) so much better than the cheap Wal-Mart primer. I find it in the automotive section, not paints. It adheres better for me, and I can still remove it if I need to.

Base coat is Krylon Metallic Brilliant Silver. It's a metalflake paint as well, and since the primer is so dark, I wanted to brighten things up before putting the blue on.

Top Coats are Rust-Oleum Metallic Cobalt Blue Metallic. The can actually mentions Metallic on the front and in the name of the paint...

When I get to the hood stripes, I'll use Krylon X Metals Red. It's transparent, and designed for use on chromed steel. My experiments with the combo showed me that they are not incompatible (the red won't eat up the blue, being different brands and forumlas), and the result is a very pretty dark purple metalflake.

The White Stripe on the tail will be (I think, I'm not sure what White I have downstairs and I don't have a lot) just Wal-Mart Flat White. Once I get the clearcoat on it to an acceptable level, I'll wax and polish it before mounting anything permanently to it.

Generally speaking (no pun intended), most of my paints will either be Krylon, Rust-Oleum or Wal-Mart brand, since I can get those pretty cheaply. I have a couple of Testors, but they are small and cost as much as the Krylon stuff, so I don't buy them very often.

As far as the suspension is concerned: I'm going say yes, it is functional. I did a google search, found pics of other peoples builds, and a lot of them have the front wheels kicked to one side or the other. I also suspect it does because of the way you assemble the suspension, then use a heated screwdriver to flatten various pegs so they don't slip back out. The rear suspension (at least the shocks) is not glued, you slide the pins from the top of the shocks and the bottom into cylinders. Presumably, this allows the springs to flex a little bit and simulate functioning suspension. I'll know more as I get closer, but now it's time to finish the blue and think about masking off the striped areas.


----------



## kevman

Thanks tolenmar,

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on this kit. I was thinking about starting this one getting inspired by seeing your pics. 

I just bought the 1/16 Street Charger MPC kit that was released as well.


----------



## irishtrek

A quick heads up on the clear coat you plan to do, I would not recomend useing a rattle can gloss coat as they tend to yellow over time. Instead you may want to consider airbrushing Future for your gloss coat as it will not yellow over time, or atleast ask around before you gloss coat.


----------



## tolenmar

Cool, glad I could help.

Got the final blue coat on (unless I screw things up later), taped off the striped areas. The hood stripes were pretty straightforward, but the bumblebee stripes on the tail...were largely guesses. It looks good to me, and very similar to a google image search. The bumblebee stripes are definitely stretching my comfort zone. I had to cut my tape downto the thinnest I've ever used, had to be very careful to make it go on straight, and I still expect the white to bleed under the tape where the trunk lid is scribed. Crossing my fingers...

























And I got part of the assembly done, here's the frame around the engine bay:









A bit of rust on the bottom and mud in the wheel wells...

















And just to prove to myself that the temporary tattoos would adhere to plastic long enough to get a layer of clear coat on top of it (and that therefore I wasn't crazy for the idea after all), I sacrificed the geisha tat on an old Hummer H3 body I've had lying around for a while...


----------



## tolenmar

irishtrek said:


> A quick heads up on the clear coat you plan to do, I would not recomend useing a rattle can gloss coat as they tend to yellow over time. Instead you may want to consider airbrushing Future for your gloss coat as it will not yellow over time, or atleast ask around before you gloss coat.


I would love to airbrush this and other models. However, I don't have a functional airbrush set-up. I have airbrushes, and I have a compressor, but between the two, I get no results at all. I think the compressor can't provide enough pressure.

One day, I'll finally be able to splurge and buy a new rig, but in the meantime, I gotta do what I can with what I have.

Having said that, I love Future, I used to use it all the time when I painted miniature figures for gaming. It would be nice to be able to use it, it provides a better shine, IMO.


----------



## scottnkat

damn, that's a big car - the pic of you holding the chassis shows just how big this thing is. Good to know that the tattoos will work for you! Looking forward to more.


----------



## kevman

how'd you manage that rust look? Its fantastic!


----------



## tolenmar

Thats just drybrushed Red Oxide acrylic.


----------



## tolenmar

Yesterday, after I lost the light, I brought the car in and masked off the stripes. I've never cut masking tape strips that thin before.

Took it out this morning, and just before leaving for work, peeld the tape back. For the record, I have yet to make a masking job work ever. There is always bleed under, even when I take the extra steps I've learned about since joining these forums.

So, I was really expecting some bleedthrough. But this, this was totally unexpected:

















I am a very happy camper right now!


----------



## 71 Charger 500

I love the Bumble Bee stripe, that is excellent. As for using future on the car, you don't need an airbrush to do that, just brush it on with a wide brush. When it dries the brush marks will have disappeared.

Mo


----------



## kevman

looks great man. I might go the sleeper/junker route for mine.


----------



## tolenmar

Charger, I'll try that.

Kevman, I thought about that for this one. In fact, I think about it for every car I do. 

I need a couple of scale "dodge" emblems to put over the stripes, and I want to get a bunch of spnsor decals. Looks like I got a bit of shopping to do...


----------



## scottnkat

tolenmar, it looks really good - it's nice that every once in a while, things go the way they should - your stripes look really nice.


----------



## irishtrek

Those stripes look nice!!:thumbsup:


----------



## tolenmar

So looking ahead, I see that there is no rear seat. There is a roll cage, and that means this is kitted out as a racing car. That's fine. I don't mind. I'd likely have decided to go that route anyway, I usually do.

That does rather resolve the whole "those are the wrong seats for a 68" problem. It's a custom job, and a resto, so they used what they could find. The only down side to that is I still don't (currently) have a racing harness for the driver's seat. Looks like I got a little more shopping to do.


----------



## kevman

for what it's worth the 71/72 charger that is out from mpc has a back seat that would probably fit. But you'd have to rob from peter to give to paul I suppose.


----------



## tolenmar

I don't mind the rollcage, like I said, I'd have likely chosen that anyway. I'm just wondering (if this is accurate to the show) where Uncle Jesse sat?


----------



## gomanvongo

if this was accurate to the show there'd be a CB antenna!

but I am pretty sure the Star Car General had a back seat - Uncle Jesse and Daisy would have bruised fairly easily otherwise.

john


----------



## irishtrek

To find out for sure if any of the many Chargers they used for the show had back seats then simply google the General Lee.


----------



## kevman

I'm sure that they did have a back seat, but I do remember sometimes they had a black interior, sometimes they were manuals. It varied significantly enough that I don't think it matters to much. Plus you're not building it as a General anyway so its all good.


----------



## tolenmar

kevman said:


> Question - does the suspension actually work on this kit ? or is it glued in place?


I went ahead and test-fit the next several pieces. There are two brackets that attach to the frame that I put in backwards. Then you take another piece (not sure of the technical terms here, it's kind of half-moon shaped, with several pegs on it) and slot it into a different hole on the frame. It is attached by a long piece to the underbody. the long piece keeps it tight up against the frame, so you don't have to glue it, and allows the piece to rock up and down a little bit.

On top of the upper pegs, you slide cylinders. Into the tops of the cylinders are shafts that attach to the upper frame (basically, you just built the front shock absorbers). Then a wishbone slots into the two brackets I put on backwards. I know I put them in backwards, as once I pulled the off and turned them around, everything fit together. The wishbone holds the top of another piece, holding it onto the half-moon rocker piece. You flatten the top peg and the bottom without gluing, and you have a piece to mount the wheel on that can shift up and down, plus turn side to side. Presumably, there will be a steering linkage to connect both wheels together. 

Once I get them painted and assembled, I'll take pics. I'll try to remember to take step by step shots so you can see what I mean in case you suffer from TL,DR...


----------



## kevman

fantastic tolenmar, thanks!

I got my MPC Street Charger yesterday, I'll put up some pics tonight if you want to compare any parts let me know.


----------



## tolenmar

I'm just digging all the little fiddly bits in this kit. There is a lot of detail here to work with. Enough so I may buy another copy just so I can build the General.


----------



## tolenmar

Hahaha!

I applied the temporary tattoo to the top of the charger. Well, actually we decided that art like that usually goes on the hood, not the top. After all, you want more than the police helicopters to see what you've done to the car.

Here's what we got (we decided on the double dragons):









It looks fantastic. Except for how transparent the design turned out. I'm going to take it back off, and use one with more color. I wish I had more copies of this tattoo, though because these are strictly one-shot deals. Once you use it, it's gone. This tattoo would have worked on a white car, or bright yellow or orange.

Oh well, you live, you learn!


----------



## irishtrek

It may be transparent, but it still looks cool!!:thumbsup:


----------



## tolenmar

It is interesting, but not the kind of effect I was after. At least, not for the hood paint (would have been happy to get that for the stripes).

I'm going to take this off, and put a different one on. I have another that has a reflective silver background, so it should show up a lot better.


----------



## tolenmar

Hehehe. Taking the tattoo off took off the top layer of paint, too. Very interesting. So, since I wasn't completely satisfied with the stripes, I took it downstairs and re-sprayed the hood blue. If everything looks good in the morning, I'll apply the other tattoo, and we'll be good to go.


----------



## kevman

Argh two steps forward and one back. its all good, I'm inspired to start mine b/c of this thread.


----------



## kevman

silly question, I haven't looked at mine in detail, maybe you coverd this already, do the wheels spin freely after assembly ? will this thing roll ?


----------



## tolenmar

Hmmm...now that, I can't answer yet. The next step after this is the front wheels, so I'll let you know soon.


----------



## tolenmar

Ok, my 'step by step' shots didn't work out so well. So here are a few shots of the front suspension. Some of these images are pre-paint and some post.

First, all the parts that make up one side of the suspension. The same pieces (reversed where needed) are used on the other side as well:









And here we are before adding those pieces. This is one of the fuzzy shots, but it isn't so bad you can't see what I'm starting with. The piece with the pegs is separated from the frame, slotted in and held in place by another piece. It can rotate up and down.









Here we go with the bottom of the car, and you can see the long piece that attaches to the frame, holds the previous piece in place, and allows for a bit of flex with that piece:









Here are all of the bits in place. I painted the shocks orange, partly to make them more visible once the car is finished:
















Now to do the other side... It was interesting doing the ends of the pegs. I took my charcoal lighter and a flat screwdriver. I held the screwdriver in the flame for a bit, and then pressed (gently) down on the peg. It didn't take much.

The wheel will be able to move up and down a little bit, and turn side to side.

Now, does the car roll when completed? So long as I don't screw things up: Yes. The brake drums (inside and out) and rims are mounted to that facing piece (where the large hole is) by a peg that forms the center cap of the rims. The only part of that peg that is glued is the end that attaches to the hole.

Lastly, for tonite anyway: The repainted, re-tattooed hood:
























This snake has a skull in it's teeth, and that skull is transparent like the other tattoo was. In addition, this tattoo is already starting to flake. I'll need to touch it up a bit before clearcoating it. But I do like this tattoo...sorry, "custom hood art" better than the last.


----------



## kevman

Thanks! The tattoo looks great. But I have to tell you the hood looks like its been to a body shop where they didn't do any blending to match the original body panels. Could be the lighting in the picture, but I wouldn't sweat it, looks nice with that snake. Did you use BMF for the window trim? How do you plan on secureing the window to the body ? I just looked at mine and I see that there is very little room for error on mounting the windows to the body.


----------



## tolenmar

Unfortunately, you can still see some evidence of the previous layers. I probably should have stripped it completely and started over. But those aren't good pictures. The color matches much better in natural light.

The trim is more silver paint, I just masked off most of the car and hit it with the silver. It mostly worked, still a couple of places to touch up yet.

Haven't thought about the glass yet.


----------



## tolenmar

Front suspension is together. I'd post more pics, but in the end, the other side looks just like what I've already posted. However, as I move on to the wheels, I noticed that if I put the thing together according to the directions, there's going to be a lot of "play" in the wheel mounts. In order to tighten that up, I've had to enlarge the holes where the centercap peg attaches to the suspension. The alternative is to shorten the peg. I may still have to, to ensure that the wheels can swing across their entire intended arc without hitching up anywhere. I'll let you know how it works.

I've started work on the rear suspension, but really, I'm at one of those points where I have to wait for all the pieces to finish drying. I did cut my first fuel line while test fitting the fuel tank on. I'm digging these details!

So, Kevman, my charger doesn't have a back seat, that we already know. Does yours have a rollcage? And unless I'm too much mistaken you have two different sized tires (wider on the rea), correct?


----------



## kevman

Alright, here are some pics of the Street Charger kit. I think the suspensions are identical parts , even the bottom chassis. There is no roll cage in mine and the rear tires and rims are indeed wider. I really like these rims better then the ones Bo and Luke settled on for the General.

I just love the details on this kit, there is an actual clutch that sits hidden inside the bell housing, how awesome is that?! The engine is really nicely details, I might make this into Project in Progress type where the engine is out of the car and apart. Not sure yet.

one annoyance that I don't recall seeing on the General Lee kit is that there body has a lot of extra flashing. What is the best sand paper grit to use to clean this up ?


----------



## kevman

More Pics 


















Check out the clutch and bell housing! Awesome!

































HOLY FLASHING BATMAN!


----------



## kevman

last set of pics


----------



## tolenmar

Wow. No I don't have as many problems with flashing on this kit. Or rather, I do, but not in large pieces. the body had barely any, there were a couple of places in the widow areas that needed sanded down, andof course the engine bay needed a lotof work, but that was because of the stiffener they had in it that needed cut away.

All of the small pieces have had a lot of seam lines, though.

Since I don't have a back seat, I didn't get an interior tub like you did. The innner door panels are separate pieces, and the floorboard is exposed front to back. Once you are mostly finished with the kit, you glue the inner doors in place, and then set the body on top.

I will say that getting the front wheels on was a royal pain. The back of the brake drums just wouldn't hold tightly onto the suspension, and when I tried to push the pegs through, they'd come off again. The flattening of the pivot peg broke loose, so one wheel has a lot of play. Getting in there to flatten it back again may not be an option at this point. Be careful.

My wheels are all the same size, and I agree that the General's rims needed a little bit of work. I scraped the chrome off from in between the spokes, and then did a black future wash to bring out the details. They look better now.

We have different dashboards, too. Mine has a woodgrain appearance all the way across, and the guages are a separate piece. You paint everything, then snap the guages in from behind the dash. It will make it easier to get the detail correct without drybrushing the wrong part.

Of course, all of this is useless without pics, but I'm getting ready to leave for the day. Maybe later tonight.


----------



## tolenmar

I forgot to mention. I use Emery boards for taking off flashing. They are fairly course, but you can get different grades. I have one here that is actually used by nail salons that has three different grades on it. I use the rough board to take the majority of it off, then switch to the salon board to finish it. Plus, it is easier to handle than sandpaper (though you still need sandpaper for odd shaped areas that are tough to get into).


----------



## 71 Charger 500

tolenmar said:


> I forgot to mention. I use Emery boards for taking off flashing. They are fairly course, but you can get different grades. I have one here that is actually used by nail salons that has three different grades on it. I use the rough board to take the majority of it off, then switch to the salon board to finish it. Plus, it is easier to handle than sandpaper (though you still need sandpaper for odd shaped areas that are tough to get into).


I use this same method and have for years.


----------



## scottnkat

me as well - those emery boards are great


----------



## tolenmar

Cheaper, too. At least a lot cheaper than those flexi-files you can buy at places like Hobby Lobby, which are pretty much the same thing.


----------



## 71 Charger 500

The emory boards are much cheaper but the Flexi-Files are great for use on roll cages for sanding the seam marks between the bars and on things like funny car frames for the same reason where an emory board is just too wide and thick for use there. One of those deals where both tools have a place in your tool kit but use the emory boards whenever you can simply for the cost factor.


----------



## kevman

Tolenmar, for the pivot peg issue you can try to get a pin vise with a tiny drill bit and drill a hole into it, then use glue and a brass pin to secure it in place and maintain is mobility. Used to do this for cars I wanted to make steerable that didn't come that way.


----------



## tolenmar

As I progress on this, I see it isn't too bad. It's at a level I can live with.

Now though, the more I look at this paint job, the more I think I want to re-do it. My first instincts were to leave it silver when I painted on the base coat, and I'm thinking now that is a better idea. I'm thinking of going to silver with a black top, black bumblebee stripes, and black hood stripes.

I haven't done anything drastic yet...


----------



## 71 Charger 500

The silver looks really nice. Thinking I may paint one of mine that color!


----------



## irishtrek

One of the local hobby shops I go to has been selling some emory/flex boards lately with different degrees of sanding grits, from 100 to 400 grit and all have it on both sides of the boards. They are narrow at one end while a bit wide on the other and they are put out by Stevens International/hobby.


----------



## kevman

That silver looks great. Very clean. Wish they had 1/16 wheels like that.


----------



## SteveR

kevman said:


> That silver looks great. Very clean. Wish they had 1/16 wheels like that.


Yeah ... Too bad the kit didn't have a stock option. But that would have meant a lot of new tooling.


----------



## gomanvongo

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Resin-1-16-Scale-15-Ford-Mopar-Chevy-Steel-Wheels-/320803039572

just lurking over here from the slot car side, but thought you might be interested in these - nice work BTW - i was eyeing up this kit last weekend at the HS locally.

john


----------



## tolenmar

Now that's cool. Shame I'm flat broke, and when I do have money I have to buy a PSU for the wife's computer!


----------



## tolenmar

The last few days have been spent doing almost nothing. And that's because after I decided to re-paint the car, I put it in my paint remover solution.

Only things didn't work like they usually do. I use a diluted Pine-Sol solution for plastic model kits, and normally that works well enough. 6 or 8 hours in that, and paint of all kinds (especially new paint) blisters up and peels right off. The only time It hasn't worked, is on old paint jobs. That takes longer.

This time, however, instead of blistering and peeling, the blue paint just turned gummy. Nasty, sticky, gummy blue paint that got everywhere. I tried several things, including a fresh batch of pine-sol. In the end, I had to scrape the ******** off the car, use mineral spirits to remove the residue, and still sand everything down.

So, now the car looks like some abandoned white project car. The white areas are where it all came off down to the platic, but there is a lot of primer still and a few places where the original silver coat remains.

Right now, I'm wishing I had simply decided to spray over it...


----------



## 71 Charger 500

Soak it in Purple Power or Super Clean. Can be found at WalMart of Meijer.


----------



## irishtrek

Does all of the old paint have to be removed and if so why???? I only ask because several years ago I removed some old paint from a couple of Star Trek kits that had been sprayed with plasti-cote and it had turned yellow over time. But I've yet to repaint and rebuild them. Any way I too soaked them in pine-sol and not all of the old paint came off.


----------



## tolenmar

No, I didn't need to take the paint off. I only really needed to get the tattoos off. But old habits die hard, and I just decided to strip the whole thing. A new coat of primer is drying now, and I'll have to sand it a bit and do another layer.

I could have just sprayed over everything, the paint wasn't so thick it would have made a difference.


----------



## kevman

I've used castrol super clean with great results for stripping.


----------



## scottnkat

yep - Super Clean works great!


----------



## tolenmar

I'm just wondering why it didn't work this time. Must be the brand of paint or something.


----------



## tolenmar

Hmmm...I definitely want this thing to have racing harnesses on the seats. I have most of the parts I need. I just need to figure out some way to replicate the actual buckles.

I'm also going to be sawing off the headrests, not because the seats are wrong for the model year, but because I need to make a way for the shoulder straps to go over the shoulders of the driver. This is going to be interesting...


----------



## tolenmar

A long overdue update:

Finally! Back to Primer. If I hadn't put those tattoos on it, I think I would have just sprayed over everything.









It'll stay like that for a while, though. I finally decided to see about a conversion kit to make it a Daytona, and so I won't finish the paint until I know if that's a possiblity. I've contacted RMR, but haven't heard anything back yet.

On the other hand, here is the chassis, she rolls now. Well...sort of.








One front wheel has a lot of play in it, it wobbles something fierce. I may pull the front wheels back off, and shorten the pin that holds it onto the suspension. I used the correct pins in the correct order, but all four of them seem to me to be too long to do the job properly. I shortened the rear pins, and things worked a lot better back there. Except for the one rear wheel which will not rotate around the pin at all. I need to drill the opening just a little bit.









Here is the front suspension, with the steering link in place. The problem is, the way the instructions say to put it in, the piece would have to bend around the frame to make it's connections. I looked at the pic on the box, and it's obvious that that's what they've done. But doing that, the wheels won't turn. So I put mine in above the frame. It works. It rubs, but it works. The problem is, I realized after the fact that that may cause a problem later mounting the engine. If it does, I'll pull it and bend it so it can work.









Rear suspension. I put it on it's highest setting. I personally prefer a high stance over a low stance, and a car like this just looks pretty when it's in an aggressive posture. It is nice, though that you have a few choices here, allowing you to lower it some and give it a more stock appearance.









Another shot of the top, fire extinguisher and pedals installed. The top of the fuel tank. 

I have the beginning of the roll cage assembled. It'll go out into the paint today so I can start moutning the pieces up. After that, it's time to create the 5 point harnesses. I'm just not sure how I'll replicate the buckles...









And these will need some work. It seems pretty obvious to me that if I try to put a harness in, there's nothing to keep the shoulder belts from slipping down the sides. So as I mentioned before, I plan to cut the head rests off, fill in the openings, and make pegs to hold the rests off the back of the seat. Then I'll have room for the shoulder belts.

Anyone have any (cheap) reccomendations for the buckles?


----------



## kevman

Tolenmar,

Those are great pics! thatnks for the update, I can't wait to get mine going.

For the buckles, not sure if you are going for period correct style, but I have a look at this 1/18 Mustang Mach 3 from maisto











Might want to look into something like that. get one cheap of ebay and pillage.


----------



## irishtrek

I see the seem on the engine roll cage aint been filled in. Are you going to fill it in or just leave it??


----------



## tolenmar

I noticed that, too. That camera is too good at showing me things while at the same time refusing to focus where I want it.

I'll leave it for now, and if, when I get that far, it's still noticeable, then yeah I'll have to fill it in.


----------



## kevman

The paint you used for the chassis, what was the brand ? does it come in spray ?


----------



## tolenmar

Are you talking about the black? Or the rust? The black is just generic Wal-Mart Flat Black Spray.

The rust is mainly a drybrushed Red Oxide. The one I used was Liquitex Value Series Basic Acrylic. I bought it when I was in college, and still haven't used it all. It doesn't come in a spray. For the wheel wells, I wanted more of a muddy look, so I used Apple Barrel Colors 20432 Nutmeg Brown acrylic. Again, it's not a spray, I drybrushed it in.

Where possible, I get my paints from Wal-Mart, because I'm not made of money. I'll buy more expensive paints when I can't find a proper color at one of my Wally's. Once I get an airbrush rig together, I'll probably use less spray paint and more acrylic, because I can create a larger color range far more cheaply.


----------



## mochnoor

*halo*

Thats great.


----------



## scottnkat

good for you, tolenmar! It looks really great - I wouldn't change a thing. Keep doing what you're doing, bud


----------



## tolenmar

Ok, about the seats. We went from this:









To this:

















Got the gaps filled in, but I'm still sanding and filing to smooth everything out. Soon, I'll be fashioning a couple of pins for each headrest. I figure I'll paint the seats and headrests, then assemble the seats so I don't have to worry about going back and detailing the pins afterwards. That's the plan, anyway.

If I can ever get the first half of the rollcage painted properly (every time I check it out, it seems I've missed a spot...), it'll go in before the seats and I can start cutting ribbon to length for the belts. This Friday I plan on ordering the buckles for the harness. I found a not-too-expensive place online (Pro Tech), where I should not only be able to get a set (well, two...I'm going to put in the passenger seat), but also a tutorial on how to convert that set to something more appropriate for the late 60's.

I still haven't heard from RMR yet...I don't know yet if I'm comfortable fabricating the parts I need myself. I'll also need sponsor decals ro plaster all over the rear quarter. I already have racing numbers from another kit I finished earlier.


----------



## scottnkat

Looking good - I did the same on some Ferrari seats and it makes a nice difference - this should look good


----------



## 71 Charger 500

I love the look of the seats without the headrests and in fact, that is probably what the 1:1 seats would have looked like. If you had ordered the head rests, they would been shaped like a hot dog bun, lol. Sorry but that's the only thing that I can think of to compare them to. Here is a google link to pics of seats for a 69 Charger: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...urce=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=vALWT_-vB6a02gXIovWlDw

It looks to me like you have the center link/tie rods on upside down. There is a slight bend in the center link and that should bend down towards the street. It will definately cause an engine mounting problem if you have that on upside down. 

Step 27 shows the center link/tie rods installed but oddly enough the instruction sheet doesn't seem to show when to install this piece. Not an uncommon mistake for that time though. 

The center link/tie rod, (part #124 and #125), needs to be under the torsion bars, meaning, between the torsion bars and the street, if you keep it the way it is, again, you will, like you mentioned, have a problem with them hitting the oil pan. 

When you mount the center link/tie rod assembly to the spindle, (part # 131 and #132 in step 4) if you don't care about the front wheels being steerable, maybe gluing them with them on the pin on the spindle with them just barely on that pin would give you a little clearance between the center link/tie rod assembly and the torsion bars. Obviously, if you don't care if they steer then clearance won't be a real issue but it might give you that visual clearance that should be there on the real car.

Hope this helps you some.

Mo


----------



## tolenmar

Yeah, I noticed that last night. It isn't attached permanent yet, it's no big deal to flip it over. The problem is, even if I did, it still wouldn't clear the torsion bars. That's why I put it in between the bars and the frame. I think I'm gonna need to tweak that piece just a bit. To go under the bars and still hit the pins it needs would require quite a bit of flex, which would stop it from turning.


----------



## 71 Charger 500

tolenmar said:


> Yeah, I noticed that last night. It isn't attached permanent yet, it's no big deal to flip it over. The problem is, even if I did, it still wouldn't clear the torsion bars. That's why I put it in between the bars and the frame. I think I'm gonna need to tweak that piece just a bit. To go under the bars and still hit the pins it needs would require quite a bit of flex, which would stop it from turning.


How about cutting the pins off of the spindle and replacing them with plastic rod or some wire that is a little longer? Can you do that?


----------



## tolenmar

Maybe. I'll have to think about it.


----------



## John F

I think your tie rod/centerlink assy is on upsidedown try turning it over and see what happens.

John.


----------



## tolenmar

Ok, went back to the suspension. As I said earlier, the steering linkage was not yet permanently attached. Pulled it off and took a look at what I had to work with. I pulled the wheels so I could see better. 

The first thing I did was to turn the car upside down, then push up on the wishbone. This pulled a lot of slack out, so I re-flattened the pegs there to eliminate some of the play. then I bowed the steering linkage a bit. Here, this is how it looks now:








You can see by the angle of the wheels just how much play is in the rig. I've done all I can. When I set it on it's feet, it settles in pretty well, and the wheels straighten up. More importantly though, the steering now works without a hitch. Plenty of clearance (though I nearly broke the linkage making the bends). This matches the pic on the side of the box. Looks like we came to the same solution. 

In addition, while I had the wheels off, I took a look at why they weren't rolling very well. In the end, I had to glue the drums to the wheels, instead of to the suspension. Then I took a drill bit (by hand) and opened the holes just a tiny bit. Now all four wheels turn around the axle pins as they should. So end of story, it rolls and the steering works!

And here is where I am with the seats. One is finished. The other (in the background) was going good until I tried to drill the hole for the pins, and the filler broke out. I had to back up and re-fill the opening again. Now for more paint and to attempt the holes again. The riser pins? Bits of paper clip!








Once I get the other headrest attached, it'll be time to glue three of the five straps in place (the ones that come up from the floorboard), and then glue the seats down. Once that's done, the shoulder straps.

I have half of the roll cage assembled on the chassis. The other half is assembled and painted, and I'll glue it onto the chassis after I get done with the seats and harness.


----------



## tiking

This is one big model. Great work.


----------



## irishtrek

Lokking good, there!!:thumbsup:


----------



## taskmaster58

That kit was once issued with a clear body and full roll cage as Richard Petty's # 43 Charger.


----------



## tolenmar

So I've heard. This one has a full roll cage as well, I'm just busy refining the seat harnesses before I assemble it. I'll be heading into C'dale tomorrow, where I hope I can find the rest of the bits I need.


----------



## irishtrek

Uh guys, not so fast. The 1/16 scale General Lee does not have a full roll cage seeing as how the horizontal bars that go on the sides are missing, not sure what else may be missing. And the Petty charger, which R2 is supposed to be reissueing later this year I think, had a different body.


----------



## scottnkat

Yep - they are retooling the Street Charger for the upcoming Petty Charger - not the General Lee Charger.


----------



## tolenmar

I'm gonna ask for some help now. I went to Hobby Lobby to find sponsor decals (NHRA, Pennzoil, things like that). Best I could do was a set of Pinecar derby rub on decals. Anyone got a good place to get a nice set?

I did manage to find stencils that should work for the number. I also think I'm just going to have to go with the seat harness as they are. They are kind of flat looking, but I just can't find the bits I need to flesh them out. (Ideally, I could use the taillight lenses from the Chuck Miller's Fire Truck model kit. But alas, I've already used them up!).


----------



## 71 Charger 500

The Petty Charger, Street Charger and Dukes Charger are all three the same basic kit with only minor modifications, tires, engine parts, roll cage parts missing, etc. The Dukes Charger was changed over to the Street Charger for "one run of fun and done" as they called it and now it is being converted back to the Petty Charger. The Dukes Charger is essentially a '69 Charger. The Street Charger and Petty Charger are the '73/'74 body style. It can easily be converted to a '71/'72 body style by changing the shape of the side windows at the "C" pillar. 

I personally hope they issue the Petty Charger with both a clear body and then a white body. I painted my orginal Petty Charger on one side only and left the other side clear to show off the parts inside. It was pretty cool.

Mo


----------



## tolenmar

Ok, been waiting to hear back from one of the two places I've found that makes conversion kits to make this a daytona. One doesn't make the parts anymore and the other seems to be a dead end. So I'm just going to go ahead and finish it. If the option opens up later to get the conversion kit, it isn't too difficult to break the glue and re-work the body.

First, though, here is a simple shot of the safety harness. 








Still needs a tweak or two. I need to get behind that seat and make sure all four straps actually wrap around and are properly connected (instead of the ends dangling like they are now). I've also been on the lookout for osmething to make the buckles look a little les flat. Finally found something I think will work, and the paint is drying.

Also got the dashboard done. 








Here is where I had some difficulty. It seems it's not terribly clear how to mount the dashboard, and so my first guess (once I test-fit the body on) was way off. I moved the rollcage under it up higher, and did a little bit of test fitting and double checking. I think this is the right position. I'll know for sure once I have the body finished and the glass in it. 

Something I find interesting is how low the rollcage is. You can most definitely see it from the side of the car, much lower than the headliner. But if it keeps the driver safe...

While I wait for my buckles to dry, it's time to start the engine! This is the part I've been waiting for. There are so many details in this engine, it's rediculous. Like the cylinders. You can actually see them, and the pistons. Even though you'll cover them up. Same with the tranny. There are gears to install that will be completely invisible once the thing is together. But it's going to be pretty cool knowing they are in there.

Of course, if I wanted to build a shop diorama, I could have the engine on a stand, and the rocker covers off. The engine could be in a state of disrepair if I so chose. But for this model, I think I'll let it stand on it's own. Or at the very least, It'll not be in the shop. I have a notion that I'm going to have to lock the wheels down, there's just too much wobble and sag, and when the front wheels lean even a little bit, it interferes with the body. So it won't be in the shop. Maybe it'll be at a car show.

Either way, I'm off to my shop!


----------



## tolenmar

Another quick word: Yep! It's a Hemi!

Here's an example of what I was talking about earlier, the engine block and the underside of the valve cover:

















Beginning to think I need to buy another one after I finish this one and build that shop dio...


----------



## tolenmar

Damned clogged nozzles!

No matter what I do, my spray cans always clog. I've even been storing them in paint thinner in the hopes that I can get the clogs out, some of them have been in there for months, and no luck.

I guess I'm stalled until I can afford to go buy another can or two...


----------



## irishtrek

Not sure if this has occured to you, but when you're finished spraying for the day turn the can upside down and spray until nothing comes out so the nozzle will not clog before your next round of painting.


----------



## tolenmar

Did that, clogged anyway. Just irritated how it seems to be the one brand (which I otherwise really, really like!), and how that brand costs so much more than the Wal-Mart stuff I used to use...


----------



## SteveR

tolenmar said:


> Did that, clogged anyway. Just irritated how it seems to be the one brand (which I otherwise really, really like!), and how that brand costs so much more than the Wal-Mart stuff I used to use...


Have you tried popping off the nozzle and storing it in a jar of thinner between sprayings?


----------



## 71 Charger 500

What brand of paint is it that is clogging up on you?


----------



## tolenmar

Rustoleum.


----------



## irishtrek

SteveR said:


> Have you tried popping off the nozzle and storing it in a jar of thinner between sprayings?


If you'll go back and read post #117 on the previous page he says yes he has been doing just that.:wave:


----------



## SteveR

Oops. Sorry.


----------



## tolenmar

This is pretty cool. I went to Rustoleums website and left a complaint about the issue. Now they are sending me a variety of replacement nozzles.

Now that's service!


----------



## SteveR

tolenmar said:


> Now they are sending me a variety of replacement nozzles.


It pays to ask, eh? Excellent! :thumbsup:


----------



## tolenmar

Yay! My new spray nozzles came in. I can finish the base coat on the engine block now and actually start to move forward again!


----------



## tolenmar

If it ain't one thing, it's another! :hat:

In the time it took to get the nozzles, my carburetor disappeared. I've looked everywhere. I even had my son outside with me on our knes digging in the grass around my outdoor paint table.

So I guess we'll see if MPC (or rather, Round 2) is generous in their "missing pieces" department.


----------



## tolenmar

Just short update, as I haven't worked much on the car of late. I did get the body re-primed, ready for the silver coat. Still no word on the replacement carb, though.

On the other hand, I got my sponsor decals in today. They are for a 1:24 scale car, but I really don't think it will make that big of a difference.


----------



## D-Stroke

Looking good bro. Can't wait to see more.


----------



## tolenmar

kevman said:


> fantastic tolenmar, thanks!
> 
> I got my MPC Street Charger yesterday, I'll put up some pics tonight if you want to compare any parts let me know.


Does your kit by chance have a 3 piece Carb? Can you make resin castings?

The reason I ask is because I've misplaced my carb. I sent away for a replacement, but I don't know when (if) I'll hear back. If yours has a four barrel carb and it comes in three pieces and you can take a casting of it, I'd be willing to pay shipping and maybe a little extra for the trouble.

Otherwise, I went ahead and started some sub-assembly on the engine. The thing is a beast of a power plant. Now that the heat wave (for now) is over, I plan on getting out there and doing some more painting. I don't lack very many pieces getting the engine and tranny together. After that, I'll wire it up, then (iirc) mount it and run fuel lines and hoses.

That essentially means that the thing is close to finished. In fact, I'm getting close enough I need to finalize the paint and get the decals on it. I'll be needing to mount the body soon.


----------



## kevman

tolenmar said:


> Does your kit by chance have a 3 piece Carb? Can you make resin castings?
> 
> The reason I ask is because I've misplaced my carb. I sent away for a replacement, but I don't know when (if) I'll hear back. If yours has a four barrel carb and it comes in three pieces and you can take a casting of it, I'd be willing to pay shipping and maybe a little extra for the trouble.
> 
> Otherwise, I went ahead and started some sub-assembly on the engine. The thing is a beast of a power plant. Now that the heat wave (for now) is over, I plan on getting out there and doing some more painting. I don't lack very many pieces getting the engine and tranny together. After that, I'll wire it up, then (iirc) mount it and run fuel lines and hoses.
> 
> That essentially means that the thing is close to finished. In fact, I'm getting close enough I need to finalize the paint and get the decals on it. I'll be needing to mount the body soon.



I'll take a look tonight when I get home, I'm living out of boxes right now due to moving. I don't know how to make resin castings, but I am willing to try if it is not too difficult. I have a 3-d printer which prints in ABS plastic but its not operational now, hopefully in the future I will be able to print parts off like this.


----------



## tolenmar

kevman said:


> I have a 3-d printer which prints in ABS plastic


I am jealous!


----------



## kevman

tolenmar said:


> I am jealous!


It was actually a DIY project, take a look at this 






Unfortunately due to my current circumstances, I have not been able to complete the project. We moved in with our in-laws, baby #2 is on the way and life has become is top priority at this point.


----------



## tolenmar

Just a couple quick shots of the engine:


















Does anybody recognize it? By that I mean does it look like either a 426 C.I. or 429C.I.? I'm no expert, so aside for the number of cylinders, I wouldn't be able to tell you.

I have the transmission assembled, too, but no paint on it.


----------



## dge467

Looking good! That is a 426 Chrysler Hemi NASCAR engine. They call that intake manifold a "bathtub" intake because of the way the carburetor sits kind of recessed on the intake.


----------



## scottnkat

yep - that's a NASCAR engine - even has the correct engine mounts for a NASCAR car around that time period as well.


----------



## tolenmar

Cool! The parts I sent away for came in! I now have a replacement Carb!
(I really didn't expect to hear back from the company, let alone get them so quickly...)










Now I'll be able to move forward again. Especially since I'm only a week away from second vacation.


----------



## tolenmar

Ok, after several false starts, and a couple of re-sandings, I finally got the body back to the silver I want it to be:

























Next step: masking off the stripes. The paint isn't perfect, but at this point, it's pretty close. and at any rate, it's due a final wet sand once I have all the colors in place anyway. Little by little, I'm getting there.


----------



## tolenmar

Finally! Some real progress. I was going to use stencils to paint the numbers on the car, but didn't feel totally confident that I could pull it off very well. So, while we were out today, I found some vynil letters and numbers. It kind of looks amateurish, but the story behind this car is that it is one of the amateur drivers, so that's okay. He has a few sponsors, but not nearly as many as some of the other racers. 

This works, because I did a little research and found that the numbers I chose were only raced in three seasons ('75, '78, and '87), so there would be no conflict with established NASCAR history. Why those numbers? It's my wife's birth year.

So, anyway, on to some pics:









































Wow, turns out individual sponsor decals are pretty meticulous to mount up. Add in that here and there they don't actually line up from one side to the other... You can also see a couple of fresh touch-up spots in those pics. The hood doesn't quite close, need to do a little bit of sanding to eliminate the rub.

How about the engine?
























There are only a few parts left to add before we start wiring and running hoses.

I also need to clear-coat over the decals. I'm trying to decide what the best way would be to simulate the mesh over the driver's window. Stay tuned!


----------



## scottnkat

You know, depending on what year your car is supposed to represent, you may not need the window net. It wasn't mid-1970's season that window nets became mandatory instead of optional. However, if you want a window net, here are a couple of suggestions:

1) thin strips of blue painters tape in a weave pattern. The tape also accepts paint easily.

2) thin strips of tissue paper in a weave pattern. Once wet with paint, they will stick together. 

3) for a pre-made window net, you can cut a piece of needlepoint mesh. Nice thing about this is that it's already made and is ready to accept paint right away.


----------



## tolenmar

I though about the painters tape. Seemd pretty easy to manage.

I figured this was going to be '69 or '70, so I can leave it out if I want.


----------



## irishtrek

Another idea for a window net is to get a roll of pin striping tape the right width and do a weave pattern.
It's looking better and better all the time!!:wave:


----------



## tolenmar

My goal for the next couple of days is to get the hood to seat correctly. Here's how it sits right now:









I'm also going to have to go back over those touch up spots again. I must have used the wrong silver. This will be fun and a bit fiddly, since I now have to work around the decals. 

Yes, I rushed things a bit. I got excited...


----------



## dge467

Coming along nicely! I like the paint scheme and graphics.


----------



## tolenmar

While I wait to get the Exhaust pipes painted so I can attach them, I went ahead and wired the engine. Got most of the hoses sorted out, but the fuel lines that go to either end of the carb are turning out to be a pain in the @@@. The pegs are too big for the hose (even stretching the ends out), and as a result the glue can't hold up long enough to get the pieces bent around to the other side. Gotta let one side set up completely before trying to move on to the other, so it looks like I'm done for the night.


----------



## tolenmar

Well, two months down the road, and I'm almost finished. I have one more piece to add, and it's currently drying. 

The hood still doesn't quite sit down properly. I think I'm going to have to take it off again and do a little more sanding for fit.

This project was a lot of fun. Now what am I going to do?


----------



## tolenmar

All right, here are some pics for you:










































More after the jump!


----------



## tolenmar

In the end, I decided that as a NASCAR racer, he wouldn't have much need for the extra weight of a full-fledged exhaust system. I'm also still tweaking the hood, I'll eventually get it to sit down correctly.

All in all, I'm very happy with the look of this car model.


----------



## scottnkat

looks cool! I like the weathering underneath and how the engine looks.


----------



## tolenmar

Y'know in real life, that engine would worry me a bit. Some of those fuel lines are threaded through the exhaust headers, and other hot places. Is fire an issue with these things?


----------



## 1bluegtx

tolenmar said:


> In the end, I decided that as a NASCAR racer, he wouldn't have much need for the extra weight of a full-fledged exhaust system.


Open headers would be ok for a drag car but for nascar the cockpit would fill up with exhaust fumes real quick,thats why stock cars have the exhaust exit to the side in front of the rear wheels.

BRIAN


----------



## tolenmar

Did not know that, but then I don't claim to be an expert.


----------



## Marty

tolenmar said:


> Finally! Some real progress. I was going to use stencils to paint the numbers on the car, but didn't feel totally confident that I could pull it off very well. So, while we were out today, I found some vynil letters and numbers. It kind of looks amateurish, but the story behind this car is that it is one of the amateur drivers, so that's okay. He has a few sponsors, but not nearly as many as some of the other racers.
> 
> This works, because I did a little research and found that the numbers I chose were only raced in three seasons ('75, '78, and '87), so there would be no conflict with established NASCAR history. Why those numbers? It's my wife's birth year.
> 
> So, anyway, on to some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> You're doing a great job. I have really enjoyed watching the progress.
> 
> Sorry, but I have to nit pick a little. The roof numbers should be rotated. The bottom of the numbers should be on the drivers side. This was done when NASCAR started racing on the big banked ovals. When the cars were in the banking, all you could see was the roof. It made it easier to identify the cars.
> 
> Marty
> Marysville, OH


----------



## tolenmar

Ah, but in what year?


----------



## irishtrek

If I'm not mistaken NASCAR has been racing on banked ovals for 50 years now, and one of the first was Daytona. I think.


----------



## s.moe

tolenmar.....through the early year's of Nascar (1949-'59) driver's had number's painted on the top's of their car's.. These were usually small (15 to 20 inches long) and painted on the veryouter edge's of the roof line......Starting in the Early '60's Crew's started to paint them Larger (taking up almost the whole width of the roof) so pit crew's could identify their car out on the track's easier....With larger track's and the Car's speed's increasing,, They were finding it harder and harder to keep up with them......By the time your Charger would have been racing.... It would have been common Place for it to have The large Number's painted as Irishtrek suggested....With the Bottom's of the Number's facing the driver's door and the number's length going across almost the whole lenght of the roof, Door to door....
Hope this Info help's you out....

I've been following your work on this build and you've done a Great job on it....


----------



## tolenmar

Well, Those numbers have been clearcoated down. Trying to peel them and turn them would cause more trouble that it's worth, I think.

Thanks for the tips, though!


----------



## s.moe

Hey Tolenmar,, No Worries, Guy......
I've been off and on the site for the past couple of month's.....Saw were Irishtrek was saying something about their placement....I just figured you needed some help with how they were placed on the roof.....My two-cent Info,, was just to help you out and NOT to criticize the build......

Beside's, it's your Build....You can do whatever you want with it.....All that matter's is, How it look's to you !!!

Personally,, I think you've done a Great job on it....


MOE


----------



## OrionsTriumph

Man this looks awesome I just picked this kit up from hobbylobby as well with the 40%. 
I'm loving your build up and it will be a big help on mine thanks for sharing !


----------



## tolenmar

Not a problem, I'm happy to inspire. Just beware that the working suspension is really fiddly, and I ended up with lots of slack (so much so that I eventually just glued everything down static).


----------



## kevman

if you're looking for a next project, I say you get the 72 Charger kit and make another one


----------



## irishtrek

Is the Petty Charger reissue out already???? If that's the case then I need to go the hobbyshop, again!!!:wave:


----------



## kevman

irishtrek said:


> Is the Petty Charger reissue out already???? If that's the case then I need to go the hobbyshop, again!!!:wave:




Nope , it's this one, I hear the petty is due up next yeat


----------



## OrionsTriumph

Can't wait for the petty charger... I also need to grab up the street charger...


----------



## 71 Charger 500

I've already gotten five of the Street Chargers and need to get a few more. My eyes aren't what they used to be and the 1/25 and 1/24 scale stuff is getting harder to do for me. The Street Charger is a 73/74 body style. I wish it was a 71/72 body style because I have a 1:1 71 Charger 500. Wouldn't be real hard to make the Street Charger into a 71 because the main difference is the "C" pillar of the roof. There are some other subtle differences but the "C" pillar is the only really big difference. A new body and hood mold and they would have another kit to sell. I would personally get at least a half dozen of the things!

One thing that I just noticed on the Dukes Charger....the grill inserts are all wrong. They have them done up in a hide-a-way headlight style insert (and they aren't even correct for that) which has horizontal lines and the grill for the 69 Charger should have an egg crate design to it, like this, (scroll down just a little bit to the green Charger) http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38640.0.html

I'm not complaining though, really I'm not, I'm tickled Panther Pink to have these kits back again.

The last I heard, the Petty Charger isn't due until December of this year. I am REALLY looking forward to that one!!!

Mo


----------



## irishtrek

The Petty charger is due out in December?? Ok, I thought it was due out some time this year.
Also instead of making a new mold for the body why not just add a couple of pieces to insert in the window pilars???


----------



## 71 Charger 500

irishtrek said:


> The Petty charger is due out in December?? Ok, I thought it was due out some time this year.
> Also instead of making a new mold for the body why not just add a couple of pieces to insert in the window pilars???


Some of the body lines on the sides, on the fenders and quarters, by the wheel openings are different on the 71/72 as compared to the 73/74. In order to make it right, which we would expect these days, they would need to tool a whole new body.


----------



## irishtrek

71 Charger 500 said:


> Some of the body lines on the sides, on the fenders and quarters, by the wheel openings are different on the 71/72 as compared to the 73/74. In order to make it right, which we would expect these days, they would need to tool a whole new body.


It figures, so why am I not surprised??? Like McCoy said in STTMP 'engineers, they love to change things'


----------



## chevyguy97

*I like what you did to the charger, i have built two of these, 1 i built the general lee, but the othere one i built a full custom charger, opened both doors and the trunk, used the wheels off of a big dub city and painted it plum crazy purple, you can check it out in the chevyguy thread, i have lots of pic in my thread.*


----------

