# hi



## buy*david (Nov 7, 2011)

I have a Stihl 4 mix that dropped a valve and I want to try and fix it. The model number is FS110R. Do you know where I can find a part break down? I will be needing an exhaust valve guide and spring keeper. Thanks.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Stihl doesn't publish IPLs for purchase or distribution. Attached are the numbers you are asking for. BTW this is an FS90 screen-shot, but the valve train is identical.


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## buy*david (Nov 7, 2011)

*Hi*

Thanks for the shot. It does not show the Guide so I'm sure they wont sell it. Do I have to go to a Stihl dealer to order the spring retainer plate? Thanks for the help.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

The guide is not available separately. If the guide moved in the block, then the cylinder block (head assy.) is shot. You can get a short-block for it. THE SHORT-BLOCK IS CHEAPER THAN THE CYLINDER (comes with piston, always does with Stihl) ASSY. - figure that one out! (By $15 MSRP)

You could take the guide to a local machine shop, have it knurled on the outside, put it in the freezer, heat the head up (optional) with a propane torch a bit and put the guide back in with some red loc-tite, but I wouldn't trust that repair. Just thought I'd mention there are ways, but they're not always reliable. There are stories I could tell you...another time perhaps.

You'll have to go to a Stihl dealer for any and all OEM parts. If the guide is ok, and you're going to fix it *DO USE *a high-quality anaerobic sealant for the crankcase split, that is impervious to fuel. REGULAR RTV SILICONE will fail. Stihl sells DIRKO which we use and is really good stuff, and I THINK but am not sure that Permatex Ultra-Black sealant is adequate, you'll have to do the research.


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## buy*david (Nov 7, 2011)

*hey*

Hi Paul. Thanks for the help. I tore it down the rest of the way. It has a bent valve, damaged guide, and broken keeper. I'm going to order the keeper and valve. Going to try and get a job shop to make a new guide for me. Or maybe I'll do it at the JC's machine shop. I can make it a little over size to help it hold. I could leave a lip on one end, or even thread it. What do you think?
Are there marks to set the cam timing? I can figure it out, but marks will save me some hassle. 
I am not going to buy a engine, I'm just trying to salvage something and learn a little. 
With a broken keeper I wonder what happened when it broke. Maybe the keeper broke then the valve dropped. The piston push it back up forcing the guide out. I don't know. There is no damage to the piston or cylinder.
Thanks for all the tips and advice, it really helps.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

I can't advocate threading the guide as it may unscrew during operation.
A small lip isn't a bad idea, but the tolerance fit alone is all that's usually required.

Timing marks on the side of the plastic cam are in the form of two arrows, with the piston at TDC you put the cam in so the arrows pointing to marks in the block, and they'll be level. You put the cam in place LOBE DOWN, then put the pin in that the cam rides on. You want to be careful putting the push-rods in lest they fall down into the crankcase, inciting curse words to surface.

When you order the parts, order a 4180 893 6400 feeler gauge for setting the valve lash *AND* a new valve cover gasket too. A slight leak can make the engine run bad as the fuel pump relies on a good pulse. It couldn't hurt to change the crank seals too, but you're the mechanic and have to judge the condition of the engine.

If you want the service manual it's P/N 0455 933 0123.


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## buy*david (Nov 7, 2011)

*Stihl FS110 Valve guide*

Hi Paul. I got lucky and my friend at the local Stihl shop had an used short block he gave me. I didn't have to mess with the guide. I just finish assembling it and tomorrow when the sealer dries I'll give it a try. I tried with all my wisdom to set the timing gears without taking the side cover off, but no luck there. I got the valve timing wrong and had to take the cove off and set it. The info you gave me was very helpful. I'll let you know how it goes from here.


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## buy*david (Nov 7, 2011)

*fs110 stihl*

The Stihl trimmer work out well. Thanks again.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

You're welcome, and glad to hear you got it working.
FYI...when the 4-mix motors get hard to pull over, they're usually in need of valve lash adjustment so the compression release is effective again. If still hard after that setting is done, it'll need decarbonization (Stihl sells fluid you leave in Cyl. overnight).
The special valve lash feeler gauges are like $1, else you'd have to cut one of yours down to fit into the rocker as it wraps down around the valve tip in lieu of push-rod guide plates to keep the rocker aligned with the valve.

One other thing, if the carb. ever gives you trouble they're cheap...I wouldn't try rebuilding them given the cost.

Paul


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## buy*david (Nov 7, 2011)

*Stihl*

Thanks for all the great info Paul. The FS110R is sold and down the road. But all the good advice is locked in the vault. I have a fs55 that seems to have a vibration in the shaft when accelerating. That is not the best description but it feels kind of like the flex shaft is flexing then bouncing back. But I'm not sure. If I accelerate slowly it wont do it.It's kind of a big shake. Does that sound like anything you know of ? 

Thanks


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