# My Leif Ericson In Progress



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Well here's the surprise that I mentioned earlier.
Added strips of styrene to add length & I cut out windows . (A little rough but It'll work.) 

Also want to thank cozmo , modelnutz , & Frank2056 for the help with supplies , and great info.:thumbsup:

Boy , I love building models!

Will try and post more pics. if there is interest. Comments welcome.
-Jim


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Wow, very nice so far.

I assume you will light it from within? 

Fiber optics or a light inside?

I'm really loving seeing the different builds of this kit.

Thanks


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks mach7.

Going to light it with LED's I believe.
-Jim


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Hey..........It's Starting To Look Like Something Anyway.*

Sorta
Windows = Pain in the butt.
-Jim


----------



## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

Those windows don't look bad! Now I see why you had so much concern in your other post about cutting these out--I can just imagine what a pain it was! Nice! Looking forward to more pics.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks! 
I'm hoping that when I apply the mask (*Thanks to Lou Dalmaso*) before I paint, that it will help make some of the imperfections disappear.


----------



## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

It looks good, Jim. The neck repair looks nice and smooth. The windows are a pain to drill out, but they'll look fine once you've masked them off.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

looks good to me. (and you're welcome)

did I miss something? why do you add length? are the new kit's measurements off or something?


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> ...
> 
> did I miss something? why do you add length? are the new kit's measurements off or something?


Yes in comparison to the original Leif Ericson in comparison to the original UFO kit

See this thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=286587&highlight=leif+ericson


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Yes , the neck "extension" did turn out pretty good. Windows were a pain but I hope it was worth it.
Thanks for the compliments guys. Hope to post more later. Coming up on the fun part soon. Wiring for lights.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

JGG1701 said:


> Sorta
> Windows = Pain in the butt.
> -Jim


Heh, must be a masochist. 

A suggestion, maybe...

You may want to put a support under the shuttle bay, specially if using the resin one. I have had good luck using a ball of epoxy putty and squishing it into place when assembling the hull. It makes sure the bay will not ever come loose.

Masks?


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

cozmo said:


> Masks?


Yes, what I was wondering.


----------



## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

mach7 said:


> Yes, what I was wondering.


That makes 3.

Lighting the windows can be a real bear - they have a raised frame around them, so do you drill out carefully and preserve the frame or just drill out everything, including the frame? 
I think what would work is drilling out the windows, filling in the holes with epoxy or clear nail acrylic (with FOs behind, or internal indirect lighting) then sanding and polishing the exterior smooth. The "new" windows would be defined by vinyl or tape masks placed over the clear epoxy. Paint, remove the masks and voila!


Frank


----------



## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

*SWEET!!! * :thumbsup: I can't wait to see your lighting techniques on this one. I'm curious as I get fresh and new ideas from all kinds of builds. THANKS FOR SHARING


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks fluke. I can only hope my L.E. turns out half as good as your builds.
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Having a little trouble fiiling in windows tried "Elmer's". Bought some 2 part epoxy 1 part looked yellow , not sure if I wanna use it. Will clear silicone work?:freak:
-Jim


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Was it the 30 minute epoxy?

That stuff is always yellow.

If you go the epoxy route, use the longer setting stuff.

Craft stores have clear epoxy for for paperweights.

Microscale has "Crystal clear" that will work okay.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

I have the 1 minute epoxy.


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Well there's your problem.

Try a longer cure epoxy.

Something I just thought of. Windshield repair epoxy from the auto parts store. The stuff for chips and cracks.


----------



## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I tried a clear adhesive that I think is silicone based--not good. So thick it wouldn't flow into the window opening. This was for the 1/350 enterprise. I tried this on the lower hull where the window holes are deeper than most on the kit. Also, it melted the styrene so if it flubs up, like mine did, it's difficult to clean up.

I just tried some 2 part epoxy about 5 minutes ago. It's the 5 minute variety but it's advertised to be crystal clear. Both parts ARE clear, but it turned yellow while curing. I have it in a pressure pot right now to remove some fine air bubbles--I'll see later if it goes back to clear.

The experience I've had with 2 part epoxy is that it entraps lotsa air during the mixing process, and it's too thick to de-air itself. I don't have a vacuum chamber, so I tried pressurizing the piece to "crush" the air bubbles.

You can try to thin the epoxy which should extend its pot life and help it flow and maybe help it de-air. But you'll need some thickness to help it keep surface tension and not flow right through the holes.

If this stuff doesn't work I'm gonna try one of the above mentioned products specifically meant to create windows.


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

If using those double syringe epoxy's, ya' gotta' use at least the 1 hour one's.

I used to use them for R/C ships and subs. Anything less than the 1hr. one's would yellow, and decay when used in water, but that's another story. I haven't touched them in years so they may have improved, but I'm not gonna' try them.


----------



## Frank2056 (Mar 23, 2007)

It would probably be too expensive for the LE ($10- $20 worth) but the acrylic used to repair women's nails would be perfect for this. CVS sells the Nailene acrylic fill kit which consists of a clear powder and a truly stinky activator liquid. This is the same acrylic used for fake teeth & gums - only clear. The material sets up quickly (in seconds), bonds perfectly with styrene and can be sanded and polished crystal clear.
Unfortunately, it's expensive stuff. That Nailene kit may do half the windows on the neck, maybe more if you're very careful about mixing only a tint amount of powder and activator.


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Michaels sells a 6 OZ clear resin paperweight kit. I've used this to make model parts. It mixes fairly thin. I have only used the hardened product so I have no idea if it will effect the plastic. It does take hours to cure. 

If you tape the back side and use a superfine micro brush it might work.


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

I recently used Testor's "Clear Parts Cement Window Maker" on a 22" refit Ent. and had good results. It even worked well on the big officer's lounge windows and dries to very clear in one day.

I was hesitant about using it at first but hey it is designed to do exactly this job so I gave it a try. Its similar but definitely superior to regular Elmer's for this type of job. It doesn't melt the plastic and cleans up with water before it's dried.

http://www.testors.com/product/136942/8876C/_/Clear_Parts_Cement_Window_Maker

A few pointers/tips:

1. I got the best results when filling in unpainted windows.

2. Use a pin or similar to pop air bubbles if they form while you are applying the glue because they don't work their way out while its drying.

3. Wait at least a full 24 hours before deciding if you like the results. Use a toothpick or similar to push it back back out if you want to redo a window.

Your work looks good and I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished job.

Regards,
MattL


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks guys. I'll see what I can do.:thumbsup:
And thank you Matt for the compliment.
-Jim


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Jim,

I followed the link you posted on the "So Very Angry" thread. I have a suggestion that might help you conquer those portholes. I think you can putty everything over and then apply the portholes on the JT Graphics _Leif Ericson_ decal sheet. The porthole decals would be templates to follow as you drilled out your portholes. The Mystery Ship was molded in relatively thick plastic, so it might be a good idea to thin the areas of the portholes from the inside with a rotary tool. You'd have better control as you carved out those elliptical ports.

It seems to me that the easiest way to get lighted portholes would be to make use of the fact that the UFO Interplanetary Mystery Ship is molded in translucent phosphorescent styrene. It wouldn't be too hard to mask the portholes by brushing some liquid masking material into the raised rims, or by covering the ports with the JT Graphics porthole decals. Then the lighting system could be installed, the model closed up, and the exterior colors painted over it. When the masks were removed the lighted ports, being Glow-in-the-Dark plastic, would shine even after the lights were turned off.

Best of luck with your project. I hope you'll keep posting photos.


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Mark McGovern;
It seems to me that the easiest way to get lighted portholes would be to make use of the fact that the UFO Interplanetary Mystery Ship is molded in translucent phosphorescent styrene. It wouldn't be too hard to mask the portholes by brushing some liquid masking material into the raised rims said:


> I want to do exactly that but I'm curious how it would work? How would one un-mask or un-decal the ports and achieve a smooth perimeter around the oblong/oval holes after the model was painted? It seems like the decals or mask wouldn't release easily or evenly enough to leave a smooth unbroken ring around the hole. What kind of paint would you have to use? How would it be applied. Most importantly, how would it be removed in a way that would leave a smooth opening? Could you explain further please?
> 
> Regards,
> MattL


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Spockr,

Masking liquids are made to release easily from plastic and paint. For the best definition, I'd thin the masking liquid a little, so it could be applied within the raised edges of the portholes with a fine paint brush. Capillary action will draw the liquid around the edges. Once dry, a second layer could be added for better coverage.

The type of paint used on the UFO hull, oil or water based, wouldn't make much difference. Spraying from a can or airbrush will give the most even coverage and it's important to keep the layers of paint you apply over the masks as thin as possible. A heavy buildup could make it tough to get the masks off cleanly.

After the hull color has been sprayed on and allowed to dry, you would push the porthole masks up with a toothpick. Gently dabbing with a bit of masking tape that's had some of the adhesive removed (by sticking it on a piece of glass and pulling it up) will get any leftover bits off the portholes.

The decals will work the smae way. Some water or decal solvent might be needed to get the decal off. A stubborn decal or mask could be helped if you broke the paint within the raised edge by lightly scoring it with the tip of a fresh hobby knife blade. Of course, we're talking really tiny details here, so you'd want to perform that operation with a good light source and magnifying glasses.

I would do any touch up with a darker shade of the hull color. It would add definition and give greater contrast with the lighted porthole. A certain amount of work will be required to get the cleanest edges around those little elliptical portholes, but care and patience will pay off with a really cool Mystery Ship.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Just curious to see............

A *Very Rough* pic. of what it may look like.
Not sure whether to go with the white or green. Mind you now I haven't painted the model gray yet.
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Ya know, the more I look at it, the more I should start over with the windows
-Jim.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Mark........
PM sent.
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

I'm dealing with a serious case of modelers block.
I would like your guys opinion on my windows.
Leave as is, or do over.

*PLEASE HONEST* opinions count.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Heck, I like it.

Busy up the outside of the ship and any misaligned portholes disappear. Maybe shadows around all the windows.

Cannot think of any other way that would work better. The brighter the light, the worse the bleed through will be. All of the portholes may have to be painted before filling.

A human populated ship with green light coming from it


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

I like it also.

No model is perfect, but I don't think the windows are really that bad at all.

I used bare metal foil as a light block on my engines, you might consider it.

Don't get disillusioned, She will make a really nice ship when done.


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

JGG1701 said:


> Mark........
> PM sent.
> -Jim


PM replied to.


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Extending the ship along with drilling and filling the windows are pretty ambitious tasks from my perspective and I give you kudos for working these modifications. What ever you choose to do will be fine and you'll end up with a fine looking ship.

I also like mach7's idea with the aluminum tape for masking. Heck while I was reading it I started thinking about a doing a version that was completely covered in foil. Kinda like an old airplane with rivets and all.


Hope you will keep posting your progress.


----------



## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I would go with white light. And as others have said, even out the windows with masks and light blocking.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Mark McGovern said:


> PM replied to.


Yet another PM to you, Mark
-Jim


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Yet another reply, Jim. :dude:


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys!
Stay tuned...............................
Gonna be a while.
-Jim


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Maybe not so very long.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Well I decided to to redo my windows.
I'm in my own little world, listening to classical music as I drill & file.
While I'm using my 2X magnifier (you know , the one with the clips on each end) my wife comes up behind me and says "you got to be kidding". I said what? She explains to me that my Leif is just a piece of plastic and not jewelry. I showed her what I was doing which requires me to use my magnifier. *She has no idea.*
-Jim
P.S.
More pics soon, I hope.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Light Test...*

Well I redone my windows. Going to apply Elmers. While I'm watching the glue dry, I'm working on the lighting.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## modelnutz (Sep 21, 2009)

Cool ! :thumbsup:
Those look familiar


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thought you'd notice.
-Jim


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Very nice indeed!


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Beauty!


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

How did using Elmer's turn out?


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

cozmo said:


> How did using Elmer's turn out?


Had to do it twice!
Not sure if I even like it this time. Got any suggestions that doesn't make me go to a hobby store? (far away)
Only have the "quick" epoxy here.
-Jim


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Photos maybe?


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Dong it for 3rd time.
Blackened window areas out where I'm going to put mask at. Before I put on the Elmers.
Stay tuned..................
-Jim
P.S.
For your viewing pleasure till I can post more photos.................
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/

Note:
Windows on the LE pics. have been redone & hopefully improved.
I will try & have an updated pic. soon.:thumbsup:


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

JGG1701 said:


> ...(. Got any suggestions that doesn't make me go to a hobby store? (far away)
> Only have the "quick" epoxy here.
> -Jim


Nope, there are some glues that claim to be clear, but Elmer's isn't one of them.

All I can figure is windshield repair epoxy from the auto parts store.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*More Lights*

Added more lights for the interior.:thumbsup:
I knew these lights would come in handy again!
-Jim
P.S.
Sorry for the blurry photo.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Sneak Peak*

Sneak Peak............
-Jim


----------



## Nyrath (May 3, 2004)

Coolness! Nice job!


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

JGG1701 said:


> Sneak Peak............
> -Jim


Love the floor pattern and the leds are the perfect color.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Regards,
MattL


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks guys.
Well I finally glued , Tenex 7R , & JB Welded the two halves together.
Waiting for it to dry so I can start sanding. :thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

Looks really good! The diamond plate is a perfect choice.


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Nice, any progress on the windows?


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Thanks again......................
Decided to go with Elmers, clear or not. Painted black around them B-4 I filled them up with Elmers , then I'm going to put oval mask on them just before I paint. Peel off the mask after paint drys & hopefully (with fingers crossed) The mask will trim and cleanup window area.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

JGG1701 said:


> Thanks again......................
> Decided to go with Elmers, clear or not. Painted black around them B-4 I filled them up with Elmers , then I'm going to put oval mask on them just before I paint. Peel off the mask after paint drys & hopefully (with fingers crossed) The mask will trim and cleanup window area.:thumbsup:
> -Jim


What are you going to use for the oval mask? Somthing you are making or can they be purchased.

Regards,
MattL


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Mr. Lou Dalmaso made up some mask for me to use.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Sanded down & attached the "submarine" looking piece and the rear pieces. Going to give it a once over again and mask the windows and hopefully primer it tonight!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

JGG1701 said:


> Mr. Lou Dalmaso made up some mask for me to use.:thumbsup:
> -Jim


I've been looking for a set of paint masks for this kit. Were they a special order? Would he make more?

Thanks,
MattL


----------



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Now that the Wonderfest is over, The first project on my plate is a new set of Templates for the LE.

It will be a completely original design, (since there is no "canon design") and will include window masks in at least a couple different sizes (stock and smaller)


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Now that the Wonderfest is over, The first project on my plate is a new set of Templates for the LE.
> 
> It will be a completely original design, (since there is no "canon design") and will include window masks in at least a couple different sizes (stock and smaller)


I've seen some of your stuff Lou and think your products are fine and beautiful things.

For my second build of this ship I'd like to use the masks to cover over the windows before painting. I plan to install a light source inside so I'll strip off the masks after paint so that the light shows through the glow in the dark plastic windows. It would also be great if there was some form of internal mask/light block to help define the outlines of the windows better. Maybe something like a stencil or template made out of foil or opaque plastic. 

I'll look forward to see what you come up with.

Regards,
MattL


----------



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

^^ the glow plastic does offer new challanges in the light blocking arena, but I don't think I'll be attempting anything for the inside of the hull. I'd recommend foil tape.

it would be a challenge to match the inside mask to the outside mask. that would be easy if you were drilling out the windows, but then you wouldn't need the masks, then.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Good to see that you are offering your talents Mr. Lou.
This will help in a big way.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Taking a break from LE to work on the the Scout.

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0144.jpg&t=1274224432159

-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Primer & Painted.:thumbsup:

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=ScoutP15b.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=ScoutP15.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=ScoutP15a.jpg
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Gettin' there................*

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=LEEgines2.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=LEEgines6.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=LEEgines1.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=LEEgines7.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=LEEgines5.jpg
-Jim :thumbsup:


----------



## Nyrath (May 3, 2004)

Yes, you are doing this right. Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Nice work so far.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Masked Primered & Painted.....*

Masked ,Primered & Painted , adding details next!:thumbsup:

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0162.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0160.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0158.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0167.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0163.jpg

-Jim


----------



## Nyrath (May 3, 2004)

coming together nicely!


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Lord I hope so.
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Well , for what its worth.............................................Enjoy!:thumbsup:

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0169.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0172.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0177.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0179.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0176.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/...ion=view&current=DSCF0171.jpg&t=1275434779764

A little bleed thru but I kinda like it:
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=DSCF0183.jpg

Now all I hafta do is make a display stand.
Thanks to everyone for the encouragement *AND* help.

More at "photobucket."
-Jim


----------



## Nyrath (May 3, 2004)

Ohhhh, that's fantastic!


----------



## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I think it looks great both lit and unlit! really nice job!


----------



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

me likey!


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Great job!

Thanks for the photos.


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

*New ship leaving drydock...*

Nice work Jim. Your efforts have paid off beautifully. I really like the highlights you chose and your illumination kicks the whole look up several notches. Thanks for sharing the build. She's a fine ship! 

Regards,
MattL


----------



## cozmo (Nov 29, 2004)

Looks good.

Is this an intentional lighting effect on the sail?









If it is leakage you are lucky. If it is an intentional effect like the Star Trek movies...you are a genius.

And is the light fixture extension going to be incorporated into the base? I kind of like the threads.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Many thanks guys!*
Cozmo , I guess I got lucky. I plan to use a different stand , but the threaded stand does look kinda cool.
You all have been a total encouragement.:thumbsup:
Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Getting there.................*

Hey guys,

A quick update. I have the stand with mirror made. 
Working on electrical now.:thumbsup:
-Jim


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Can't wait to see it!


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Ta-da!!!!*

Pics. plus a few "mini-movies.":thumbsup:

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=018.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=014.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=003-1.jpg
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=003-1.jpg

http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/oo218/JGG1701/?action=view&current=minimovie001.mp4
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/...GG1701/?action=view&current=minimovie002.mp4&
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/...GG1701/?action=view&current=minimovie003.mp4&
http://s377.photobucket.com/albums/...GG1701/?action=view&current=minimovie004.mp4&

Enjoy!!!
-Jim


----------



## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Nice refinements since the last time I saw it and the display base is beautiful.

Should there be some audio with the MMs? I just heard clicking sounds...

Anyway... Great work Jim! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Very cool, you have made L.E. into a proper spaceship, she looks great!


----------



## mach7 (Mar 25, 2002)

Wow, very nice job! Love your stand, the mirror is a great Idea.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Spockr: Nice refinements since the last time I saw it and the display base is beautiful.

Should there be some audio with the MMs? I just heard clicking sounds...

Anyway... Great work Jim! 

Maritain: Very cool, you have made L.E. into a proper spaceship, she looks great!

mach7: Wow, very nice job! Love your stand, the mirror is a great Idea.

Thanks guys! (Sorry , no audio.)
Really means a lot.
-Jim


----------



## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Jim,

I finally got ahold of an IUFOMS myself and started looking around for ideas, which brought me back here. I'm sorry to say I'd completely forgotten about your project. Your ship came out very well indeed. You should be proud.


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Mark,
Thank you very much for the kind words.
I am glad that you like it.
-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Old Glory....................*

Just tinkering around with camera.
Wish I could Photoshop the stand out.








-Jim


----------



## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Old Glory repaired! :thumbsup:
Thank you Kurt Kuhn! 








-Jim


----------

