# Want your advice on track shoulder materials



## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I know a lot of you guys use the cork strips on the edges of your track for a shoulder, I want to try something different so here is what I plan on doing. I built guard rails, 2 rails high & set them approximately 5/8" off the edge of the track surface, I figured this would end racers in the outside lane using the rail as a speed corner etc for an advantage, now I need to fill in the gap between the rail & track, what I plan to use is caulking silicone & then sprinkling the small decorative gravel on top & then lightly pressing or rolling the grave into the silicone. What I want when I get done is a track that looks like it is paved & the grader left a 1/2" to 5/8" little gravel shoulder & then tapers to the table, and surrounds the feet on the guardrail where it was installed. I figure I will need to make some shaped smoothing tools for the silicone and maybe a little hand roller. Anyone done anything like this before, or do you have any thoughts on how this will work?

Here is a pic of kinda what I want.

Thanks in advance for any input 

Boosted
Greentown IN


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## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

*looks only*

If this is for looks only then it sounds like a nice way to get a realistic look. If you are running T-jets or other cars that like to slide a little, I think the rough surface might cause unexpected results.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I would use cork railroad bed for the aprons. It has a slightly marbled surface, can be painted once installed and would be way easier and less messy to apply. The level of apron traction would be fairly consistent with the track surface too. I would get HO scale, it's usually pre-split down the middle, and the taper can run off to your guard rail. It can be glued to your table, or I've heard of people using double sided tape to secure it. Hot melt glue is another alternative, and due to the fact that it comes out on the thick side viscosity-wise, it might aid in getting the cork right up even with the track height.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

*Use modeling clay dude.*

I would use modeling clay WAY before I tried that with silicone.
Silicone is too wet and sticky to use a roller on, or is already setting up by the time you can roll it.
Silicone is a one shot deal. If you dont get it right the first time, you have to let it cure 
and then try to remove it.

Modeling clay comes in a variety of colors, and is easy to work with. You can use a roller on it.
If fact, you could roll gravel over the top of it for the look you want.
The cost would be about the same as using silicone, and
the traction is about the same as track.

Here's what I did...


























And here's another spot...


















You can easily work guard rails into it. Best of all, you can rework it without a mess. 
It doesn't dry.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I used real sand in a couple of places to get the look you are describing:

http://min.us/mv6mCN

I did coat the sand with polyurethane to take the edges off the grit, but yeah it is much grippier than slick plastic track. I like the effect since it adds uniqueness and a twist to the layout.

Cork is a viable option as well because it would be a lot less "work" if that is a concern. I imagine you could use a wood stain on the cork to adjust its appearance if you were hoping to achieve for a less corky look. I'm talking a paint-like stain, not cherry or mahogany. Maybe experiment with brushing on a light tan paint or stain and wiping off most of it so the paint just fills the pores and it still looks grainy.

Another option is a spray-on texturizing paint like this:

http://www.krylon.com/products/make_it_stone_textured_paints/

This paint could be applied to homemade borders made from and 1/4" material like cork, plywood, MDF, or Masonite. It's available craft stores and the *-Marts. 

Good luck and have fun.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks guys, This is why I ask, good options here, I like the idea of the modeling clay versus the silicone, especially the silicone being a 1 shot deal. NTX did you cover the clay with anything to keep it from drying out & getting brittle? or does it continue to stay pliable?

Boosted
Greentown IN


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

It stays pliable. They make two different kinds, the kind you bake, the kind you don't.
This one you don't. I don't have it covered with anything. It's been on for a year or so,
and I could take it up today and redo it if I wanted to. It comes in a bunch of colors.
The big blocks are available at hobby/craft stores and run between 3&4 bucks.
They have smaller ones for like a buck if you wanna grab one and try it out.


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## Ovalhead (Nov 20, 2010)

Boosted-Z71, there are many ways as you can see and read on how many folks have done what your asking. Good luck with whichever way you choose to go but remember, will the track feel a major temperature change through out the year or are you racing in a controlled environment ? Just something to consider...........expansion & contraction. I just have not heard it mentioned yet, I found out the hard way many years ago, even with vinyl putty.

Best of luck, :wave:
Cliff


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks guys, I am going to pick up some clay at the hobby lobby store here today & give that a try first, as far as climate change my track stays about the same within 5-8 degrees all year (unless we loose electricity). Cliff I appreciate you bringing that up. 

Boosted

Greentown, IN


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

We in RCHORA have not found a material other than the track itself that will give the outside lane no advantage or disadvantage in it's travels therfore we do not use the outside lane. This is on left turn only tracks that we run on. Cork is not the same material as the track and therefore is unfair. Some cars gripped on it and others slid more. One factor is the length of the track. Do you need the rail or wall to help with keeping up with the other lanes? It is a good ? for the road courses.We just thought that all of the other lanes had their footprint on track, so all lanes needed to have the same footing. We have all 6 lane tracks with the exception of 1 8 laner. We use the inside 5 on the 6lanes and inside 7 on the 8 lane.
Just our opinion and you do what you have to do for your club/track/enjoyment.


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## Static Addict (Nov 2, 2010)

Yeah...silicone is actually very nasty stuff. Very stinky until it cures and toxic.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I bought some clay today, $4 for 1lb, not sure how far it will go but seems reasonable costwise, hopefully I can get a small trial section done this weekend to see what it is going to look & function like. I will post some pics of what I get done.

Boosted


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Any per lane advantage/disadvantage is absolutely meaningless when you rotate the racers through all the lanes. I cannot imagine any legitimate form of slot car racing that does not make every driver drive on every lane through the course of the total race. That's basic Slot Car 101 logic that's played out as a fact of life in the nearly 50 years that slot car racing has been around.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Ntx or anyone else who has used this clay are there any tips or tools you used that will make this any easier?

Thanks

Boosted
Greentown IN


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Yes, with shoulder building, you want to break it off in lines, 
then roll it out into a roll, like a piece of bread, taller than the track.
Then you lay it out next to the track, and use a small roller to roll it out even with the track.
Anything will work, a glass, a bottle, a paint can, or I used a matchbox steam roller truck. (for fun)
You can see them here in the lower right corner, parked on the black clay.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

AfxToo said:


> Any per lane advantage/disadvantage is absolutely meaningless when you rotate the racers through all the lanes. I cannot imagine any legitimate form of slot car racing that does not make every driver drive on every lane through the course of the total race. That's basic Slot Car 101 logic that's played out as a fact of life in the nearly 50 years that slot car racing has been around.


How about drag racing? I've never heard of lane rotation in drag racing? :hat:


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*I have seen...*

I have seen people use corrugated cardboard. Cut to fit and paint it any way you want. Cheap and looks ok too...


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Ok, here is my first effort, maybe have a little too much clay on the backside & under the rail but you get the idea, The good news is it is a very solid & pretty smooth surface after drying. I am sure the cars may knock a pebble or too loose when racing but once the get down to the layer sunk in the glue they should last.

Let me know what you think 

Boosted


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

there are some folks who drag race best out of three for eliminations. some have timing systems, some don't. makes some sense for those without. in pro eliminations, lane choice is given to the low ET, in case of tie, high MPH, in case of tie there, best RT. in bracket type drag races, the race director just sets up the pairings and in succeeding rounds they line up as they were in winning order. no lane choice in bracket racing. in index brackets, they go by pro rules. these rules have held for most of the races I have attended in various scales by various sanctioning bodies in many locations. there are, of course, exceptions that I would certainly like to hear about!


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Al, you are spot on, but I don't know what it has to do with track shoulders.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

OH? OK! I thought you asked if there was lane rotation in drag racing? I don't have much experience turning corners and slowing down to do so. but, I have been down a drag strip or two. and built many, many more. I thought I would try to help out with what I know. the only thing I know about shoulders is stay off em at high speeds!


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

NTxSlotCars said:


> How about drag racing? I've never heard of lane rotation in drag racing? :hat:


this ?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

OH yeah, forgot bout that.

Anyways, I think this looks pretty good Boost. :thumbsup:










You could roll the rock into the clay and maybe lay a small line 
behind the rail for support. Just a thought. Looks good though.
I never thought about putting additional texture on top of the clay.
I'm gonna try that on my track.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Thanks, I wound up rolling the rock into the clay & adding some thinned white glue to settle everything, On this rail the clay behind the rail is a little wider than I am doing on the other sections, but I thought this turned out great, I am so glad you talked me into the clay over the silicone. Make a mistake with the clay & peel it up, wad it up, roll it back out & start forming over. Not sure now that I would even have had any shot for success with the silicone.

Boosted


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