# T-Jets: NOS vs. New Issue



## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

I've never done a side by side compo between the NOS skinny tire t-Jet and one of the new issue cars with the wider rear tires, but I probably will be very soon. After more than a year off of racing my dream series is finally coming together. Cars are ordered, the track, while unfinished, is race ready and the rule set is being written and re-written as we go. 

Essentially our Hobby Stock class will be a stock motored T-jet, either NOS or reissue, with RRR Slots or Steel wheels and black wall tires. Body selection will be RRR Fairgrounds cars, the '55 and '57 Chevy, '57 Ford and '58 T-Bird as well as the DASH '55 in either street or P/S form. The DASH cars will be allowed some lowering but not sure how much just yet; I need to sit the RRR and unaltered DASH cars side by side to see. Car cost will be about $30 each depending on vendor. 

No motor mods other than to aftermarket brushes, shoes and springs. No brush tubes allowed, never liked them things anyway. No chassis mods, magnets will be gaused if necessary. And this is where it will start to get sticky, because from what I'm reading here and elsewhere the new issue cars have some gearing issues but are somewhat faster than the NOS. If that's that's the case other allowances for the NOS cars will be made. 

The RMS at Tres Palmas (catchy, no?) Speedway measures times down to 0.001 seconds but it also has a fuel function that is adjustable. We've been able to determine how much fuel average is needed for a 30, 50 and 100 lap feature with a NOS T-Jet and that may be the biggest player, especially if you need to stop and spend 4 seconds refueling. The only tale tell on running out of fuel is a reduction of track power by one-third current with about a lap and a half to go, essentially indicating a loss of fuel pressure. In test races this has proven more often than not to be the difference between a win and 4th place. The designer, Adam Nelson, is an electrical engineering student at Fresno State, and has really helped us out immensely on this project. 

So has anyone here already done a side-by-side of the NOS and new issue? If so I'd love to have your input, I want to make both cars as equal as I can on the track. New chassis are much cheaper online than the NOS but I just prefer the older cars myself.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

wow pete that sounds cool the way a car could run out of gas. the newer ones are quicker out of the box that all i know but i like older better.


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Joe I don't know if you can remember the original A/FX Pit Station from probably 30 years ago, it also had a gas feature and the logic circuits are based on that schematic. I don't know if the new Electronic Racing deal from A/FX Australia does but Adam found the schematic from the original release and modified it with an adjustable tank size. A 4 second refill is the fastest we could use and that amounts to just under 2 laps on my short oval. Up until recently we had the ability to "gas-n-go", put maybe a second or two in the tank for that extra 5 laps but for now at least that option has been removed due to other computing issues. 

I had been told the JL cars were "quicker" so we may allow DASH magnets in the NOS cars, we shall see. Quicker may also mean less fuel efficent, all we've used to this point are the NOS cars we have to figure that out. A car with a Mean Green gets about 2/3rds the milage of a standard red wire arm, the best gas milage are the Christmas armatures with red and green wire. The track supplies 90 ohm controllers but we've also used Parma 45's and not seen the fuel usage changed; it's not in how the current is delivered, it's in how the cars used it.


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## twolff (May 11, 2007)

The JL/AW T-Jets are repros of the Tuff-Ones chassis. The gear ratio is different from a NOS T-Jet.

Am I understanding that you have race management software that calculates fuel mileage on the fly for each car according to its laptime and simulates running out of fuel based on the tank size that is input prior to the start??


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

twolff said:


> Am I understanding that you have race management software that calculates fuel mileage on the fly for each car according to its laptime and simulates running out of fuel based on the tank size that is input prior to the start??


No, the fuel management system measures the electrical current used for each car and subtracts that from a base amount selected prior to the race start. A car using a lot of current, such as a neo-magent car, will empty the "tank" much faster than a stock magnet car because of the amount of current needed to run the car. That's how it was explained to me. We run 12volt G-Jet power, I believe that's a 2 amp transformer, and all 4 lanes can run at the same time with no current drop. But each lane has it's own board that measures the size of the tank and will subtract from that tank current used. it's not cheap, about $125 per lane with the timers and reed switches, but it is transferable from track to track using simple Dean's plugs. We have 4 "tank" settings, on my track ranging from 15 laps to nearly 100 laps. I'm not sure what the measurement is, millivolts or milliamps, but that's how it is regulated.


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Sounds cool. This is what HO track makers should be doing, instead of ordering another 75,000 of the 9" radius turns from Sum Ting Wong's Chinese Injecting Molding Company.


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Adam just told me it's essentially like a household electrical meter, as you race the meter spins electronically, but when it reaches 95% of it's capacity limit it closes the voltage by 1/3rd. At 100% it shuts off completely. The reset takes 4 seconds but he can change that diode for anywhere between 0.1 second and 9.9 seconds, he decided that about 2 laps on this track was enough to make it interesting. He can also alter the amount of the step down, from 10% to 90%. Unfortunately he says they're way too much work to offer commercially, it's taken us nearly 2 months to get ours done.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

NOS Aurora Thunderjets have a 9-tooth pinion gear driving the 15-tooth crown gear. The reissue Johnny Lightning and Auto World Thunderjets, like the old Aurora Tuff-Ones cars, have a 14-tooth pinion driving the 15-tooth crown, so even if two cars were exactly matched as far as armatures and magnets and all the other variables, the 14-tooth car would have a much higher top speed. To level the playing field, you probably would have to gear down to a 9-tooth in the reissue cars or allow a 14-tooth in the originals. I have done both just in my basement tinkering--they both work pretty well, but you have to make sure parts to do either are available to anyone who wants to try it, and to really truly be sure it's done right, it should probably be done with a puller and a press. Now, I own neither a puller nor a press and my conversions work okay, but I have screwed up a few parts with my blunt implements of destruction.

i'm just a basement runner, haven't done any competitive racing for a while now, so ymmv...

--rick


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Rick, actually my track is a bull ring so top speed may not be an advantage. Tres Palmas only has 24" straights but is has 18"/15" corners, so a constant speed with lightning fast torque would be a better here. It's definitely a set up track, as much as 0.10" of tire stagger is used with hard tires with XT Sprinters, with silicones it don't much matter. When we raced T-Jet Supers weight jacking played into the mix as well. But I do have a Tuff One among my NOS T-Jet cars, and it does have the 'umph' when you blip the throttle on the straights to make a pass. I will have cars in a couple of weeks to make a full comparison, I just hope we can get a fair rulebook and allow drivers the freedom to make the proper changes to run close like you said.

I have both a puller and a press, several kinds actually, and my machine shop is made available to anyone in the club that needs it. I won't do it for them, but I'll stand over them and tell them how the first couple of times. I have extra's I got from RT-HO on cluster shafts and gearing, if they need parts they can buy them trackside, but the labor is all theirs. 

Perhaps the biggest factor with us will be driving style, some of us will hang it out hard in the corners, others roll it in and roll it out and run just as fast as the other guys. With a track this short there is no one groove, no one style, and that's what makes it different than the larger ovals I've had in the past.


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## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

The JL / AW cars are a close clone to the Tuffy's . However the arms ohm out differently and as said before the gear ratio is a 14 tooth set up . Switching the magnets alone is a waist of time . First you need to match thema nd then find an arm that they work well with .

Also , being basically a "no quality " car , you'll either have a good one or a bad one . If it's a bad one you might get some good parts off of it for modifying etc . 

Don't get me wrong , I have both cars and race both regularlly . I'm just saying that to make the JL / AW cars dependable racers you'll have to search for true wheels or replce them with aftermarket . Check for twisted chassis which are common . Tighten up gear clusters . Search for good idler gears . Swap out the rear axles for larger diameters to help fix the enlongated and oversized rear axle bores . The addition of a weighted front wheels makes a big improvement too .

I can still buy new old stock Aurora chassis' for $11.00 each that are a much better cahssis . However , the market is running thin on them and the only ones now available are Truck/Hot Rod/ Indy cars chassis' . They're the same with bigger wheels and tires that are switchable .

That's just my view on the compairing of the two.

Gonzo


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

_Rick sez:_


> ... you probably would have to gear down to a 9-tooth in the reissue cars ...


Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I've got a question on this mod that is not answered in my saved posts or in what I can find with SEARCH. 

When folks put the smaller 9-tooth gear in a JL, they also change to a crown gear with a longer collar to take up the lost space. Is there any problem using the original crown gear with spacer washers or a bit of tubing to take up the space?

-- D


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Gonza, I can find the NOS rollers for $12-$14 from RRR, Jag's and a few others, Jag's has the JL chassis for $10 for those guys who want to spare a few bucks but like everyone else is saying; sometimes you do get a bad one for whatever reason. With these cars there were so many factors that affect performance and I think that's why they remain so popular with a lot of guys. Sometimes you can get one you can plop down on the track and it's great, in my experience most times it's not that way.

I got a couple of NOS and JL cars this morning in my PO Box, I have a reunion this afternoon but tonight I'll be over at my daughters house cleaning up the track to work on some testing. I have a set or two of the DASH magnets to work with as well. 

Dslot, I'm not sure I can answer your questions, basically because I'm not entirely sure what you mean. I'm assuming you are refering to a smaller diameter axle ring gear and that they don't mesh because of the size difference. I have had that problem and I use either delrin or brass washers to make up the distance, two are the most I've ever used. I've always had a lot of binding problems when using any spacers in the final drive.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Well D, 

Based off of Noddaz's early tinkering, the conversion is way back in the mm thread. Joe D. has some follow up postings later. I'm not thrilled about using the A-dub crowns for the conversion. Not only is there a lateral shimming issue on the axle...I have also seen a vertical issue on the pinion shaft.

My results indicated that it's best to replace the whole mess, as I torched the A-dub crown several times... under close inspection they have those gnarbly lil' baked bean gear teeth that dont inspire great confidence.

By the time you acquire the gears, pinion shaft and maybe a real rear axle to replace the Playdoh originals, your pretty deep into it.

Keep in mind that the A-dub gear plate journals are spaced fractionally wider so you may get a better mesh at the driven gear with the original idler...which is where you come up short. 

If you add cost-n-time, the big pinion upgrade for the t-jet is the way to go...cuz thats what they are designed for in the first place. HOWEVER, knowing that Pete's application is a short track it'll be a challenge to maximize their potential in throttle response and handling. High ohm arms and long gears can be kinda twitchy. Ya might be able to shrinky dink the rear tires down to nuthin' and buy some of it back... a stop gap at best though. 

The conversion is quite cool, but it requires the right parts, a bit of skill, and the ability to overlook the fact that you could just get a decent t-jet in the first place after everything is said and done. This is not to say that you can shake up a bunch of good A-dub parts and build a nice chassis...but the gear ratio difference still looms.


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Do the NOS & AW/JL have the same diameter size for rear axle?
Is a larger diameter rear axle only done on AW/JL because of chassis issues?


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Dom, I have used AW/JL rear wheels and axles in NOS Aurora chassis and vice versatile numerous times... Worked fine for me. 

--rick


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## Dyno Dom (May 26, 2007)

Thanks Rick,  the 2 chassis have the same diameter rear axle?
Gonzo, what diameter size would be used for the larger rear AW/JL axle?


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I'll throw my .02 in here too. You'll have a rather difficult time using the newer tough ones chassis in a short track scenario, especially using 45 Ohm controllers. More like an on/off switch than anything. The 9 tooth conversion will help tame it a bit, but for JL/AW chassis you really need a 90 + controller to have any real control of the car. 

And D, I tried very early on to use the original crown gear in a conversion. Not worth the aggravation at all. To get the crown to fit right, you would need to cut the boss off the tooth side of the crown gear to have it sit right in the chassis and touch the mating gear. When you do this, you lose half the strength of the gear, and it won't want to stay planted correctly on the axle. Then you still need to shim it on the back side to keep it meshed properly. For the extra buck or two, the original Aurora crown makes it all line up right. Consider the chassis cost, and then buying all the gears and pinion shaft, and the NOS chassis is cheaper, and runs more consistently.


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

slotcarman12078 said:


> I'll throw my .02 in here too. You'll have a rather difficult time using the newer tough ones chassis in a short track scenario, especially using 45 Ohm controllers. More like an on/off switch than anything. The 9 tooth conversion will help tame it a bit, but for JL/AW chassis you really need a 90 + controller to have any real control of the car.





Pete McKay said:


> The track supplies 90 ohm controllers....


Anything less than 90's does make it very tough to drive. the 45's belonged to another driver who 'insisted' his was better. He quickly discovered it wasn't. Right now I only have the replacement controllers from track sets but future plans are for Parma 90's. 

OK, got to make a little bit of a comparison this evening between some broken in NOS cars and the two new JL cars I got this morning. Honestly, there wasn't much difference on this track. We used a microsizers timer because I didn't have the lap top but with the same bodies and wheels and tires they all ran within a few tenths. I didn't have a lot of time, maybe 100 laps, and tomorrow is another day. Tonight it's paint and decals on a new DASH '55 to make it our first Fairground car.


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## roffutt (Jun 30, 2006)

Pete,

Any chance of sharing the schematic and parts list for this fuel mileage circuits? 

Thanks,
Robbie


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

One more thing to add. The JL/AW cars' chassis and gear plate are a hair longer than Aurora TJ/TO pieces, which could pose a problem to anyone who likes using their favorite Aurora body. The rear top gear may hit the screwpost.

Another thing to consider...... The Model Motoring T+ cars are a close copy of tjets. But like JL/AW's the chassis and gear plates are a hair longer, and a body swap between MM and JL/AW should go without a hitch. Only thing to watch for on a T+ chassis is the bad 50-ohm arms.


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

roffutt said:


> Pete,
> 
> Any chance of sharing the schematic and parts list for this fuel mileage circuits?
> 
> ...


Robbie, I asked Adam and it was a pretty firm no, there has been a lot of work that he's done, some at my expense, most at his. It has cost me $125 per lane for my 4 lane so I can imagine the time alone is a huge factor. It was 2 months from idea to first prototype in April, and slow in the refining phase since then. But he said he'd get me the list of websites he used in the designing phase and I could link to them. BTW, he got an A for the first lane he finished in his ElectEng class at Fresno State. I told him he needs to file a copyright (or possibly a patent?) for it and sell it to LifeLike or even someone like SCX or Carrera since it works in any scale, as long as it's only 12 volts. He says a lot of the technology is already in use with utility "Smart Meters" like those used out here for PG&E. 

But I will, absolutely will, once my racing season gets going, do a video of a race where the timer, lap counter and fuel all come into use.


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## roffutt (Jun 30, 2006)

Pete,

No worries, I completely understand. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out. 

Thanks,
Robbie


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

This was briefly mentioned in another string about the same car but since this is the tuning section I'll post the findings I've come up with here.

One of the things I checked between the current track champion, a NOS car with a DASH Super Mod body, and the new '55 DASH fairgrounds car was weight. This was after posting consistently faster laps with the '55 than the Super, with much better handling and control. The '55 weighs 18.7 grams while the Super weighs 19.8 grams. I have 3 other Supers that weigh from 19.0 grams to 20.1 grams. How much is a gram? Well a penny weights 2.5 grams, so less than half a penny really, but it's where that weight is that counts I think. 

The Super has that big wing that raises the roll center significantly, and I think that had the most to do with the much better handling car being the '55. I also have a DASH Batmobile, but it's a real heavyweight at 22.2 grams. I took off the front and rear bumpers, the nerf bars and pipes and got it down to 19.2 grams but it was still top heavy. The wing alone was 0.9 grams, so essentially the Hot Rod version of this body would have weighed the same as the '55. 

A NOS chassis with RRR axles, wheels and tires weighs 15.6 grams, the JL chassis likewise equipped is just 15.0 grams. I noticed that there are parts of the JL chassis that are thinner than the NOS chassis, this could be the case for the whole chassis. But just looking at the rear of the chassis where the screw goes through, and the same on the front it's noticeably thinner even to bad eyes like mine. 

I don't have my RRR bodies yet but since they are resin my guess is that they will be heavier than DASH's injection molded cars. Weight is not a bad thing (I keep telling my wife) as long as you can keep it low. But having already found that it might be an issue helps plan for a remedy; perhaps limiting the lighter DASH cars to use the heavier NOS chassis only.


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*And another thing.*

First, the fuel technology sounds great. 
And as for aftermarket Tjets, AW has finally got it right.
Their last release has a traction magnet (bad) but it can be removed. (Good!)
But the best part is the fact that the chassis uses a Super II style crown gear. That makes these chassis much more controllable than the former chassis...
They are also much smoother, which helps too...

Scott


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

noddaz said:


> ... AW has finally got it right.
> Their last release ... chassis uses a Super II style crown gear. That makes these chassis much more controllable than the former chassis...
> They are also much smoother, which helps too...


I have one of these Rel. 6 chassis. The usual AW 14-tooth TO pinion gear drives an 18-tooth crown gear. Looks like the new crown would drop right into the earlier AW chassis, replacing the stock 15t crown for more controllability. This sure would beat pulling the pinion, elongating the shaft hole, pressing on a 9t pinion, removing the crown, and pressing on a HTF Aurora 15t crown and maybe an idler, too.:freak: 

So...
Is there any place that carries the AW 18-tooth crown, or a usable facsimile, as a separate part?

-- D


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

a few years back Tyco made a really cool electronic race system that controlled each lane's fuel supply. If you tried to run past empty, the car would slow down until you pit. It even had the pit single lane turn offs and threw in a few extra pits stops for tire changes too. You had to use their controllers and power supply because it was all wired directly to the system...which ran from a blue tower. It also counted laps and did lap times as well. 

I think it might have been one of the last tracks Tyco released before they sold out to Mattel


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Jimmy that's what ours is based on. I had two of the A/FX versions I bought at a yard sale a few months ago and Adam used that basic circuit and improved on it. The lap timing was only to tenths of a second but back in those days that was good enough for us.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

waitaminnit...

that's an 18-tooth crown gear?

where have I been?

--rick


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## RT-HO (May 27, 2009)

For years racers have been turning down the stock Aurora 15 tooth crown gear OD to .300. This allows them to run smaller rear tires for better handling. They are down to .338 OD on the rear tires. With an 18 tooth crown gear you'll never even get close to that.


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## smalltime (Jun 3, 2006)

There is a 19 tooth gear that is a hop-up part sold for G-Plus cars. We used them for years in M/Ts for road course applications.
You have to turn the OD down a bit to alow for clrc for the rear magnet. But you're right Rick, you'll never get down to .300 dia.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

> _Rick sez:_
> waitaminnit...
> 
> that's an 18-tooth crown gear?
> ...


Hey, that's how _*I*_ felt when I read Noddaz's post above. Huh? AW changed the crown gear? How could I have missed that; it'd be all over the forum. 

I did a Google search for
*"Release 6" crown site:hobbytalk.com*
that returned only one relevant post, back on Feb. 9. Now that I think about it, Rick, the guy that posted it looked a lot like you.  It must have been a lo-o-o-o-ng honey-do list. That's okay, we've all had 'em.

Searching: *"Rel 6" crown site:hobbytalk.com*
got me another post, saying the performance was excellent, mentioning the new gear, but not a change in ratio.

So I scrounged up the only Rel 6 chassis I have - I'd bought it at Hobby Lobby when they first came in, separated it from the body, tested it on a battery, and tossed it in the AW "future projects" chassis box. Looking at it now, yep, the crown has deeper teeth, and more of them. One, two ... eighteen? Recounted - eighteen, again. I also checked the pinion, but it seems to be the standard AW 14-tooth plastic job.

So now, the AW Tjet has a lower gear ratio, like everyone's been asking for. It's 14:18 (= .78 reduction ratio), not as low as the 9:15 (=.6) pinion swap; still, better than the 14:15 (= .93) of the stock AWTJ. 

I haven't measured, but visually judging by the clearance between crown and chassis, there's very little difference in the diameters, if any. AW seems to have just packed more teeth per inch on the same-sized gear.

Now I've got to get my test track set up again and see if there is a difference in the controllability of the new release. Bloody bother, really - actually having to _run_ slotcars. Testing performance is what you _active_ guys are supposed to be for. 

-- D


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

ROFL. yeah, that's the part that bugged me... I actually posted a bunch of stuff about how much I loved the new chassis (still do, btw), even mentioned that the crown gear looks different, but I never bothered to count the teeth. i actually took the crown off that Riviera I mentioned and converted it to stock Tjet gearing... then I think I used the AW crown on an old Tjet with a Hop-Up 12t pinion. Hmmm... that's ANOTHER set of gear ratios to consider...

no more. too much math in my head too late at night. time to go run a few laps.

--rick


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

But put a 9T pinion in an 18T Rel 6 car and the math gets real easy - .5 gear reduction ratio. Very controllable; great for courses with no straights; also useful for pulling HO stumps.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Sounds like a winning combination for me!!! The slower the better!!! :thumbsup:


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Dslot said:


> But put a 9T pinion in an 18T Rel 6 car and the math gets real easy - .5 gear reduction ratio. Very controllable; great for courses with no straights; also useful for pulling HO stumps.


:tongue::tongue::tongue::tongue:


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## resinmonger (Mar 5, 2008)

Those stumps would be pretty cool for a tractor pull... :freak:


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

*Mr Obvious here... lol*



Dslot said:


> But put a 9T pinion in an 18T Rel 6 car and the math gets real easy - .5 gear reduction ratio. Very controllable; great for courses with no straights; also useful for pulling HO stumps.





> slotcarman12078 Sounds like a winning combination for me!!! The slower the better!!!





> resinmonger Those stumps would be pretty cool for a tractor pull...


Well now. You guys hit on it. The next logical step for insane slotcar modifiers.
Someone go and build some AWTO Monster Trucks... And someone take that panel van that AW did and make Grave Digger....


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

for some reason I felt compelled to do this:










are there other crown gears available for Tjets? I wanna say I think I have a Tjet with a Tycopro crown gear, but I never counted and I don't know if I could even find it now...

--rick


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*So...*

How would a taller set of wheels do on the new R6 gearing out of the box??... Like afx or vincent's ?? .... Still on/off or even more suited to the long straight leggy courses? Personally, I have never had very much (if any) luck swapping around gears and arms. Wheel swaps... I can do.


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Noddaz, I had a couple old Zip Zap Monter Trucks I could probably salvage to do just that. I think they're even the same scale. Johnny's group does some monster truck slots if I remember correctly from his newsletters.


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## RT-HO (May 27, 2009)

ParkRNDL said:


> for some reason I felt compelled to do this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't know about other crown gears but 10 & 11 tooth drive pinions
are also readily available.

Rick


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## Pete McKay (Dec 20, 2006)

Rick, I wish you would (or could) offer complete gear plates with Mean Greens and 150L's already installed. The last 2 cluster sharts I've tried to press I made a mess of and ruined one of them. Would be cool to have something to just drop in and go.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

thanks, Rick. somehow i didn't have your site bookmarked yet, but now i got it. easy enough update for the chart:










--rick


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## Pomfish (Oct 25, 2003)

How about the crown gear from the 4 gear cars?
My friend Don used to have a tjet set up with that small gear for the extra long drag strips we used to build back in the day.

I don't know the tooth count off hand.
Later,
Keith


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

Great thread :thumbsup:, thanks rick for linking back to it from the other thread where I was asking about the 18t AW Crowns


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

PS- so has anyone FOUND a source for the AW 18T crowns yet ? Also, does anyone have a *cheap/used AW release 6+ chassis For Sale ?


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Pomfish said:


> How about the crown gear from the 4 gear cars?
> My friend Don used to have a tjet set up with that small gear for the extra long drag strips we used to build back in the day.
> 
> I don't know the tooth count off hand.
> ...


hmmm. when you said that, i remembered thinking that the crown off a 4-gear looked different somehow. so i got all excited thinking i had another row to add to the chart, and i went downstairs to count the teeth on a 4-gear crown. i counted, then i counted twice, and i came up with... 15. weird, since it seems smaller in diameter than the "standard" crown, and the teeth are definitely a different shape. wonder what the deal is with them...

--rick


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## drumz (Jan 10, 2008)

I just discoverd that a JL/gear plate will perfectly fit NOS T-Jet chassis, that are marked number 5 &10


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## Pomfish (Oct 25, 2003)

ParkRNDL said:


> hmmm. when you said that, i remembered thinking that the crown off a 4-gear looked different somehow. so i got all excited thinking i had another row to add to the chart, and i went downstairs to count the teeth on a 4-gear crown. i counted, then i counted twice, and i came up with... 15. weird, since it seems smaller in diameter than the "standard" crown, and the teeth are definitely a different shape. wonder what the deal is with them...
> 
> --rick


Like you said the teeth are a different shape, they seemed to mesh nice and loose on Don's car.

Anyway I may have to go down in the dungeon tomorrow and steal one froma 4 gear and see what happens.

Today it's.............FOOTBALL!!!!
Later,
Keith


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