# Progress of Star Trek TMP Style 1/350 Refit



## The Trekmodeler

Hey all!

I know it's been quite a while but we've been busy working on the latest commissioned build of the PL Refit done as the TMP version. She's got quite a bit to go but here's what we've got so far. 





























NASA Shuttle style 



























Aztec video test download(open with quicktime)
http://www.mediafire.com/?xmbmzkyqgm5

Thanks for looking!:wave:


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## Magesblood

impressive!

You know, it's posts like this is what serves to inspire the likes of me. Now if I could just get my hands on one...


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks so much sir!

Here's another


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## richlen2

*More info please*

Beautiful work. Can you describe your approach to this. Are you using the aztek decals supplied with the model or did you paint the aztec panels? What paint/paints did you use? Clear coats?, etc. Order of paint layers? It is beautiful and one in the box in my basement that I am going to start this weekend. Will you be lighting this as well? Congratulations on a beautiful model. 

Rich


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## KUROK

Gorgeous!
If I ever build mine I want to do a TMP build as well.
So keep those pics coming!


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## Zombie_61

Truly a thing of beauty. I love the pearlescent Aztecing! :thumbsup:


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## Fozzie

That is just a gorgeous, gorgeous paint job...


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank you all for the kind compliments! Here's the write-up...

After reading Paul Olsen's TMP Page, the first task was to find suitable pearl paints for this job...needless to say this part took a while. I spent weeks trying to get the best possible results with the Wasco pearl paints I always use but I just wasn't satisfied. I needed someting more metalic-like and reflective so I kept looking until I found some lacquer based iridecsent paints. After a series of experiments I concluded that Wasco Iridescent Paints were the way to go. I went specifically for the lacquer based Shimmering blue iridescent, Shimmering green iridescent, Shimmering gold iridescent and Shimmering red iridescent. I also purchased the Polytranspar Lacquer thinner which turned out to be important for the overall effect. These paints were bright and very reflective sprayed pure and the effect increased when using a few drops of thinner mixed in just before spray. 

Now to the application. I kept in mind to stay on the warm side for the secondary hull so I used a lot of gold and red. Green was the least used in this area. There is a pretty good amount of blue but it was mainly used as the background color very lightly sprayed. Rather than airbrushing the iridescent colors over a polished white primer I used Model Masters semi-gloss white for the base coat. It provided a really nice shine. I'd like to add that I didn't stress too much over the 'off color' issue because pics of the studio model show quite a fair amount of that going on in certain lighting conditions. 



























Warmed up version of the pic posted earlier










The strongback was painted using Model Master paints also, MM pale green, MM light gray, and MM flat white. I mixed up 4 shades of gray/green for this area. I used the darkest shade for the deflector(rear housing) and lightly sprayed the lightest shade of green/gray to create the different shades. I then sprayed some sparkling white pearl from wasco that I had on hand on top of the lightest area. 

I'm very satisfied with the results so far, now on to the saucer, pylons and engines.:drunk:

Link to Paints used
http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/05/polyirid.html


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## The Trekmodeler

*Update(Shuttle bay detail)*

Small update...


Here you can see the DLM/Pendragon accurate shuttlebay door. It was painted 'free hand' with all 4 colors. There is still more work to be done on this area.





































Trekcore HD Screencap from TMP


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## SteveR

Beautiful work!

How are you going to handle the TMP paint job on the fantail?


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## Lee Staton

Takes my breath away to see such fine work! Beautiful job!

Lee


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## Model Man

Absolutely gorgeous! Such subtle greens on the engineering section! Beautiful!


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank You Gents!

Steve, the area is painted but in those light conditions it is difficult to capture with the digicam. It is painted with gold and red iridescent. I'll try again in a different background light. 

For now though, a minor shuttle bay mod. 

'Open Sesame':dude:


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## kdaracal

Good, Lord! This is beautiful!! Thanks for posting. Great way to digest the turkey.


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## junglelord

Amazing kit, wonderful build.
When you look at the shuttle bay, it appears to extend too far into the ship.

When I look at the cutaway Enterprise on another thread of this forum,
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=94019&d=1257406370
it appears to be different scales.

Maybe just the photos?


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## SteveR

TOS vs. TMP. Different ships.


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## junglelord

DOOH!
Amazing photos, excellent motivation to get my own soon.
I want to make mine into a RC Submarine.
:thumbsup:


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## flyingfrets

Gorgeous work!

Do you think it would be possible to make this technique difuse enough to look in scale, but still visible on the Round 2 1/1000 version?


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks guys! 

I think that this technique should turn out pretty ok on the 1/1000 model. I fully intend to try it out but from what I see the larger the surface the better the effect is. 

few more.


















Secondary Aztec close up


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## Landru

I can't believe how damn colourful that it. The great thing is that it also looks very white too. Perfect representation of _TMP Enterprise_.

What is the paint like through your air brush? Any problems? 
I ask because I'd love to try those paints out on the coming 1/1000 _Enterprise_. It will be weird, I _always_ use Tamiya paints..


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## The Trekmodeler

Landru said:


> I can't believe how damn colourful that it. The great thing is that it also looks very white too. Perfect representation of _TMP Enterprise_.
> 
> What is the paint like through your air brush? Any problems?
> I ask because I'd love to try those paints out on the coming 1/1000 _Enterprise_. It will be weird, I _always_ use Tamiya paints..


Thank You kindly sir!

The paint is very smooth out of the airbrush at about 25-30 psi. Thinned it looks even smoother so make sure to get you some of the polytranspar thinner especially when working on the 1/1000 Refit.


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## Bay7

Ahh that looks superb!

But don't you get fed up with building all these?

My skill base is not as high as yours but I was asked to build some titanic models for a traverling museum and all the joy went out of building!

steve


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank you sir, I appreciate it!

These models are pretty difficult to work on but they always make for a great time!


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## The Trekmodeler

Port side engineering









Studio model/replica comparison









Strongback close up(Note the almost bluish appearance in certain light conditions)









Reflection on the lower part of the hull









Off color display


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## galaxy_jason

Excellent!


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## Prowler901

WOW! Again... WOW! Your engineering green areas are perfect. So many folks seem to make it too dark with a lot of contrast. But, yours is perfectly subtle.


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks a bunch guys! 

I did some mod work on the sensor dome. The kit part was a bit off. It seems some of the detail was soft in areas where it should've been sharp and sharp in places where it should've been soft. That always bothered me because the sensor dome is IMO one of the most elegant parts of the Refit Enterprise. Here's the mod work so far. 

Studio model dome










New part next to kit part









Kit part









New part


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## Landru

Looks great, you must be having fun


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## The Trekmodeler

Hehe thanks, it's always fun working on a Refit!:dude:

Completed new sensor dome


















Minor engine mods,
The forward intakes were slightly reshaped and those bars at the sides were extended.


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## SaulTigh

Looks amazing!

You should make some cast off that new sensor dome. It would be nice to a have an accurate after market part available.


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## Lou Dalmaso

agreed!


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## flyingfrets

Y'know, I really enjoy Trek...love building models too, but looking at the work you've done makes me realize my trying to replicate it would be an excersize in futility. 

But that's not stopping me from thoroughly enjoying this thread! *Incredible* work!!! :thumbsup:


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## The Trekmodeler

Warp nacelles and pylons are done for the most part. Man these things were way harder to aztek than the secondary hull was!










Still in process shot































































Continued on next post...


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## The Trekmodeler

Off colors appear exactly as expected













































Saucer's already in progress...


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## Dr. Brad

Wow. That looks great! Just beautiful. Can't wait to see the finished product....


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## modelsj

Wow.... that's something else! Color me lazy, but I painted mine white then airbrushed some thinned down pearlescent finger nail polish. I bought Acreation decals and put those on the polish, darn near the same effect. If I can get photogbucket to co-operate I will do pics. Now I wish I had been patient with the painting after seeing this.


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## mb1k

You're in inspiration to us all.


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## Nova Designs

Beautiful! Are you going to dust coat it to dull it down or leave it as is? No preference... just curious.


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## MadCap Romanian

This is excellent! I want to do something simular with my old AMT Refit kit sometime. I'll be referring to this thread in the future.


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## Landru

Chandler Voice/ Oh _my_ God.


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks you all!

Nova, no dull coat but I probably will attempt to use a semi-gloss coat over the whole thing just to create a bit of a blend. 

More pics, 

These colors really do look different in every angle and light condition. Here are a few in low light. All of the pics of the engines in my previous posts were taken at night with a pretty well lit room, makes them aztecs POP!

Low light


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## butch101

wonderful work !!!


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## Dr. Gonzo

Trek, really, really nice work there!

I have to echo another poster however and saying your planetary sensor is fantastic. You should definitely consider selling it as an add on kit. If your client wouldnt mind the time it took of course.

Again, well done!


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## 1701ALover

Truly stunning!


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## Raist3001

Trek, this is simply stunning. Great work on the corrected PSA


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## Noseart

Beautiful!!:thumbsup:
Thanks for sharing incredible details that can help everyone work on their own.
Your work is appreciated!
A couple of years ago I designed a light kit for this version but after all the parts were paid for I realized there was no way to sell it and make even a small profit. I researched the movies for proper lighting and flash patterns and constructed flasher boards to replicate everything but wow it was expensive.
Great job!


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## X15-A2

It always makes me smile to see that people are still putting my photos to good use.

Model on, Dudes!

Phil Broad

(This is the most accurate representation of the aztec paint scheme that I've seen so far, fantastic work)


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## omnimodel

These shots are awesome. I have a couple of technical questions if you wouldn't mind clarifying:

1) What did you use for masking? I tried frisket once and it virtually melted when I sprayed rattle can lacquer over it.

2) Are there any known compatibility issues with the Watco paint? For example, spraying Model Master Acryl on top of Tamiya acrylics will cause a crackle effect...

3) Is there a big difference between the lacquer and acrylic appearance?

My thanks in advance. I appreciate you and others here taking the time to post your work and construction tips.


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank You all very much!!

The idea of molding the sensor dome had crossed my mind but I just didn;t want to get anybody's hopes up. The reason is I don't have any experiance with molding. It's a skill I'd love to become familiar with but don't have the time due to the work on the bench, the Refit model, various lighting kit orders, etc. I can say however that it is on my list of things to do. I have another sensor dome to work on so in the end if I still don't have the time to learn how to mold it myself, I'll provide the master for someone who is willing. 

Phil, That means a heck of alot!! It gives me the confidence and courage I'm definitely going to need for the work on the saucer section. Your photos at Cloudster are an invaluable reference for anyone working on a Refit. I don't do any Refit work without them. 

Omnimodel, Good questions!

For the engines I was going to use blue painters tape but at last minute I decided to use vinyl strips left over from Aztek Dummy sets that I accumulated since 2005...That's a lot of vinyl strips!:freak:

I never experianced any problems with Waco paints. I used Model Master acrylic semi-gloss white for the base coat and the Wasco paint works just fine over it. 

I used to use Wasco pearlecsent paints (both the acrylic and the laqcer), not much difference in appearance just in the way they sprayed. The lacqer is much smoother out of the airbrush. Now I use the Wasco lacqer based irridescent paints. They are great to work with. The airbrush never clogs just like Paul Olsen said. The paints are also very smooth and prismatic but the model's surface has to be well prepared to receive them. It is also better to have a can of that lacqer solution in case you feel the need to thin the paints. 

Again Thanks so much folks! I really appreciate it!

Here is a little quicktime demo showing some paint effects. This one shows even the off colors themselves appear and disappear. 

http://www.mediafire.com/?kwgztmhzzaz


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## Erk1701e

Absolutely Beautiful!


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## dan1701d

Beyond amazing, that is beautiful, cant wait to see saucer.


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## Shizman

Are the WACO paints made specifically by taxidermy.com (i.e. does anyone else carry them)? The reason I ask is that I wanted to get some of these paints in Canada, but they won't ship it here.


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## tardis1916

OMG! The paint job you're doing is absolutly beautiful! Dumb question, how do you think those paints would do brushed on over the Polar Lights aztec decals? I thought (it might be a good idea) since the pattern is pretty much laid out for me. My hand brush skills are good (IMO) that I might pull it off. If not I sent you a PM asking another question about my next build.


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks very much everyone!

Shizman PM sent, 

Tardis, I haven't tried hand brushing these paints but I assume they would leave visible stroke marks because of their translucence. I'll try it out and take some pics of the results.

The new Hobby mat and polishing kit came in so I thought I'd take some photos.


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## marc111

A REALY nice paint job Trekmodler.

A Question, When you paint the aztec colors how many passes over a given area with a particular color do you seem to do? Does the paint seem to give you the sheen you are looking for in one spray pass or do you find multiple light passes are required?

For both the irredescent and the other WASCO paints what pressure and tip are you finding works best?

I have been trying a medum tip with their Wildlife Acrylic Iridescent paints and I am not sure if the tip is big enough.

Thanks,
Mark


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank You very much Marc!

If the surface is well smoothed out 2 light passes will do fine. The secondary hull port and starboard sides of the Refit model I'm working on were azteced in a very different manner than the rest of the model so I had to airbrush white between each color layer to prevent the colors from mixing up with each other. It had to be done carefully but still resulted in some recessing. The Wasco irridescent paint will not require many coats. One or two will do nicely. I'm using a paasche double action airbrush with a medium tip, It works very well with these paints. I'm also using thinner which helps out alot. These paints also come in powders for better control. http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/07/MP400.html

One more pic


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## Lou Dalmaso

another beauty.
I'd still like you to give me a quote on a build


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## StarshipClass

Gorgeous!

I think you should name her, "Mini-Pearl!"


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## The Trekmodeler

LOL Thanks guys! I really appreciate it!

Lou, PM sent. 

Saucer progress now,

The planetary sensor dome is almost done. The center dome area is not yet finished. It'll receive pearls at a later time.


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## MartinHatfield

TM that is awesome! Is that the pearl paints, or a subtle gray paint pixture for the panelling on the sensor area? It looks beautiful.


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## Erk1701e

Looks Great! I'm also curious as to the colors you used. Keep it up!


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## The Trekmodeler

Hey guys! Thanks so much for the words of kindess! 

The planetary sensor was painted with no pearls as of yet. It was painted 2 shades of light gray and 2 shades of blue gray. For the light gray shades I used flat gull gray/flat white, 2nd shade was created with light gray and flat white. The blue gray shades were based on US navy blue/gray and flat white. All were Model Master acrylics. The center dome will receive pearl blue and pearl gold at a later time. 

Bridge and B/C deck pics



























2 more planetary sensor pics


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## junglelord

I have a friend that is an automotive airbrush artist.
I sent him shots of different builds.
He is going to help me with my first airbrush.

Thanks for the pics and the excellent thread..
I now have one in dry dock and love the visions your thread fills my head with....keep up the good work and the post with pics. Thanks so much.
:thumbsup:


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank you sir!

Few more in different lighting conditions.


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## Fozzie

Having just finished my own 1:350, my jaw is on the floor at that paint job. OUTSTANDING!


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks a lot Fozzie!

Some work on the impulse area.


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## barrydancer

Beautiful build. I'm into my own and am curious how you're handling the windows? Are you using the supplied clear pieces and somehow masking them or just omitting them and scoring the paint out of the empty holes after it dries? I'd like to put some of the sub assemblies together before painting, but I also want to use the clear windows and can't wrap my head around how...


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks a lot! Aztek Dummy window masks found in the 1/350 Refit template set were used to mask off all of the windows including the botanical garden, Officers lounge, and rec deck.


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## barrydancer

Cool, thanks. I got those templates on order from CultTVMan. I purchased some decals from Acreation for the green strongback. I like how you painted yours, but I'm not sure I'm that skilled.


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## Bobj812

Yeah, I'm kind of going back and forth between trying to paint in my Aztec patterns for TMP look, or just doing a nice clean job with the decals -- maybe adding just dusting of pearly blue over a white base before I apply the decals. Seeing how I haven't done any airbrushing that complex, I think I had better play it safe. But seeing such a fantastic build such as this one makes me want to give it a shot!


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## SteveR

"Bridge brought to you by McDonalds..."


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## Flux Chiller

This is really tremendous work, thanks for taking the trouble to post it for us. 

That impulse looks a superb shape. Is that scratch built, or the aftermarket part? I like the way it is dark and sinister at the moment (Presumably it lights up?)


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## The Trekmodeler

Thanks very much guys!

Flux Chiller, The impulse part is actually from the DLM/Pendragon set airbrushed with flat black at the exhaust area. It's masked off at the moment but it lights up. When the masks are removed it'll have a black outline.


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## junglelord

Is the common method to paint then do electronics?
Thanks for the inspirations.


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## MartinHatfield

Hey TM, I finally had the money to spare, so I bought one of your "plug-n-go" lighting kits for the refit. I am truly looking forward to getting my grubby little hands on that baby and actually beginning to build my (hopefully) masterpiece.

On the subject of the painting. Are you using Aztec Dummy's templates for the details on the lower sensor dome and the bridge dome sections? How about all the little details that are part of the strongback? Are those included in the A.D. templates? I ask only because I have the most recent version with the window masks, but I didn't know about all the detail stuff included.


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## Lou Dalmaso

Martin,
My set currently does not include the sensor dome or bridge dome pieces. that is all TM's stellar work there. and my strongback is very basic compared to what you see here. Mine's more of a jumping off point for the kind of uber detailed work TM is doing


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## MartinHatfield

Thanks for that info Lou. Now I know what else I have to do to get this baby looking AWESOME. Glad I have a lot of low tack tape from my days doing picture framing.


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## The Trekmodeler

MartinHatfield said:


> Hey TM, I finally had the money to spare, so I bought one of your "plug-n-go" lighting kits for the refit. I am truly looking forward to getting my grubby little hands on that baby and actually beginning to build my (hopefully) masterpiece.
> 
> On the subject of the painting. Are you using Aztec Dummy's templates for the details on the lower sensor dome and the bridge dome sections? How about all the little details that are part of the strongback? Are those included in the A.D. templates? I ask only because I have the most recent version with the window masks, but I didn't know about all the detail stuff included.


Awesome! Thank you for your order sir! It is currently in process . We hope will enjoy working with it when it arrives. 

For the strongback area, I used blue painters tape and for the smaller parts like the sensor dome and bridge I used fristket masks and Tamiya masking tape. I'm working with Lou's templates now on the main saucer. I plan on creating the sub-patterns with friskets after the main pattern is done. 



Lou Dalmaso said:


> Martin,
> My set currently does not include the sensor dome or bridge dome pieces. that is all TM's stellar work there. and my strongback is very basic compared to what you see here. Mine's more of a jumping off point for the kind of uber detailed work TM is doing



Thanks Lou, I really appreciate it! I couldn't complete this model without your template set!


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## MartinHatfield

TM, any chance that you might be willing to share the patterns that you use for doing the "smaller stuff"?

I personally can handle just about any file format you shoot to me. Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Corel Draw or Painter, you name it, I got the software to open it.


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## Shizman

That is some flawless masking and painting. Great job!


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## Shizman

MartinHatfield said:


> TM, any chance that you might be willing to share the patterns that you use for doing the "smaller stuff"?
> 
> I personally can handle just about any file format you shoot to me. Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Corel Draw or Painter, you name it, I got the software to open it.


I'd love this too. I'm about to start mine and have no problems putting in the time it takes to do a thorough masking job.


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## Lou Dalmaso

Its been a while since I revised my template set. do you think this is something I should add (upper and lower sensor domes)?


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## Shizman

I'd buy the update from you. Maybe you could add it as an update set, like you did for v2.0.


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## Fury3

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Its been a while since I revised my template set. do you think this is something I should add (upper and lower sensor domes)?


 
In a word.... YES! I've got your 2.0 set and if you offered this as an add on I'd buy it in a hot minute.


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## MartinHatfield

Same here Lou. I want to be able to do the best job that I can on my refit, and the better the masking - the better the final result.


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## Lou Dalmaso

well this gives me encouragement. Maybe I'll have something new to show at Wonderfest


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## The Trekmodeler

MartinHatfield said:


> TM, any chance that you might be willing to share the patterns that you use for doing the "smaller stuff"?
> 
> I personally can handle just about any file format you shoot to me. Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, Corel Draw or Painter, you name it, I got the software to open it.


I have no problem at all with that. The only thing is a lot of the masks were improvised on the spot without using a pre-made template. I did use Arthur Pendragon's grid pattern for the pylon aztecs. Here's a pic of the firsket masks. http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/trekmodeler/Star Trek TMP USS ENTERPRISE/P1090715.jpg

You can find the complete pattern here. http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cz_mask.htm



Lou Dalmaso said:


> Its been a while since I revised my template set. do you think this is something I should add (upper and lower sensor domes)?


That would be AWESOME!:dude:

Some work done on the saucer rim and center.

Center masked with tamiya masking tape and friskets


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## The Trekmodeler

More pics of lower saucer center...









Off color









Off color B&W


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## The Trekmodeler

And now the upper saucer center









B&W


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## MartinHatfield

Looking totally awsome there TM..

Two questions:

First... how did you get the sensor bands to blend so well, and yet get rid of the seam lines where the window pieces fit into the saucer section? This was an issue with the old AMT kit that resurfaced with the PL kit.

Second...I sent you guys an e-mail asking for a progress report on my electronics kit. Got no reply. Can you tell me how it is going with my order?


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## Zombie_61

Ahhh, it's _so_ nice to see another modeler using as much masking tape as I do. :thumbsup: Beautiful work!


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## MartinHatfield

a bump to keep it on the front.


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## jaeg

I have a question. It looks like you have the windows already in in some pics and they look like they have been painted over. Are you sanding them or what to get the pain off them?


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## MartinHatfield

jaeg said:


> I have a question. It looks like you have the windows already in in some pics and they look like they have been painted over. Are you sanding them or what to get the pain off them?


I think that he is using the window masks that are included in the 2.0 version of the vinyl masking set from Aztec Dummy. 

Available from Steve over at CutlTVMan..

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/Aztek-Dummy-Refit-Paint-Templates-1350-scale-VERSION-20_p_485.html


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## The Trekmodeler

Thank You all very much! 

Martin, the saucer was hell getting rid of the seams. Here's the trick though, almost no putty was used on saucer rim area near the bands in order to preserve the detail. We'd use putty only where the seam would be gaping. We instead used just Testors cement, waited for it to dry thoroughly so is not to mar the surface and then gently sanded. 

Yep Martin is correct about the window masks, the Aztek Dummy sets carry masks for all windows and ports. 

Upper Saucer pics:drunk:




































Demo video
http://www.mediafire.com/?tzdzma4gq3m

Working on the lower saucer now. From what I see there's a heck of a lot more going on down there.:drunk::tongue:


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## Refit

I seldom comment in threads here, simply because I am firmly of the opinion that if I have nothing of relevance to contribute, I refrain. However, there are times (like this) in which I cannot remain silent.

This, Sir, is the single most impressive and, to my eyes, accurate representation of the original studio miniature aztec paint job that I have yet seen here in these forums. I truly cannot imagine that anyone could come closer, or do better. Truly beautiful and, again, to my eyes, spot on. 

I noticed that you've accurized the lower impulse engine housing. From where did you purchase the after-market replacement part? This too is extremely well integrated and looks to be right on the money. Congratulations on this gorgeous build! I will certainly be watching to see how this beauty turns out, ultimately.

I own one of the original 1:350's and haven't touched it, mainly because when I see such wonderful builds as yours, I can't imagine how I will *ever* be able to even come close. I bought the after-market aztec friskets, but seeing a paint job such as yours, frankly, discourages me, because I know that, alas, I could never give my refit the finish she deserves.


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## MartinHatfield

Refit said:


> I noticed that you've accurized the lower impulse engine housing. From where did you purchase the after-market replacement part? This too is extremely well integrated and looks to be right on the money.


I believe that he mentioned earlier in the thread that it is part of the set from DLM....available through CultTVMan here:

http://www.culttvmanshop.com/Refit-starship-1350-detail-Parts-from-Dons-Light-amp-Magic_p_337.html


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## junglelord

Well I got a professional airbrush setup from my uncle last night, a retired sign painter. I am sending him your latest effort. He is going to teach me how and I will make a video for others when I get going. I need to buy paint.
What paint are you using?
Thanks


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## MartinHatfield

I believe that all the info about paints can be found here...on the first page of this topic



The Trekmodeler said:


> After reading Paul Olsen's TMP Page, the first task was to find suitable pearl paints for this job...needless to say this part took a while. I spent weeks trying to get the best possible results with the Wasco pearl paints I always use but I just wasn't satisfied. I needed someting more metalic-like and reflective so I kept looking until I found some lacquer based iridecsent paints. After a series of experiments I concluded that Wasco Iridescent Paints were the way to go. I went specifically for the lacquer based Shimmering blue iridescent, Shimmering green iridescent, Shimmering gold iridescent and Shimmering red iridescent. I also purchased the Polytranspar Lacquer thinner which turned out to be important for the overall effect. These paints were bright and very reflective sprayed pure and the effect increased when using a few drops of thinner mixed in just before spray.
> 
> Now to the application. I kept in mind to stay on the warm side for the secondary hull so I used a lot of gold and red. Green was the least used in this area. There is a pretty good amount of blue but it was mainly used as the background color very lightly sprayed. Rather than airbrushing the iridescent colors over a polished white primer I used Model Masters semi-gloss white for the base coat. It provided a really nice shine. I'd like to add that I didn't stress too much over the 'off color' issue because pics of the studio model show quite a fair amount of that going on in certain lighting conditions.
> 
> The strongback was painted using Model Master paints also, MM pale green, MM light gray, and MM flat white. I mixed up 4 shades of gray/green for this area. I used the darkest shade for the deflector(rear housing) and lightly sprayed the lightest shade of green/gray to create the different shades. I then sprayed some sparkling white pearl from wasco that I had on hand on top of the lightest area.
> 
> 
> Link to Paints used
> http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/05/polyirid.html


----------



## junglelord

Thanks for that.
I just noticed the demo video.....SOB.
:thumbsup:


----------



## junglelord

I agree best paintjob I have ever seen on the Refit.
:thumbsup:


----------



## Gemini1999

I really do love reading this thread and keeping up on the progress. It's so beautiful and I must confess, a bit daunting. I could only aspire to do a model at least this well, but I know that this level of detail is beyond my capacity to duplicate. One day, I'll get that model out of the box and get it going, but I'll just have to live with a model that is the best I can manage with what skills I do have.

What's that line from Superman II....? "Once you've seen Superman in action, Niagara Falls kind of leaves you kind of cold" That's what comes to mind, anyways.

Keep up the terrific work!

Bryan


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Wow gents I don't know what to say! You guys are very kind, Thank you so much!

The impulse housing was from the DLM accurate aftermarket set for the 1/350 Refit. It's a fantastic piece but will require a little more elbow grease. We had to shape a section of the connecting dorsal below it with Aves Apoxie Sculpt to properly join the neck later on. 

More pics

Rear Saucer



























Primary Hull









secondary hull


----------



## MartinHatfield

TM, is ther ny chance that you could share the process of masking for this paint job? What I am referring to is the order that you mask, then paint each color. The painting is so incredible, but I am having a ahrd time wrapping my head around what got painted first. 

I am figuring that for the center sections that you painted the grayscale details, and then the pearls. But still, in what order?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Also, can you share some of the details of the mods that you had to do on the dorsal for the DLM part? I have the same set of parts, and want to see what I have ahead of me with using these parts.


----------



## junglelord

I am curious too about the painting order and templates.

My uncle who used to be a sign painter told me about this product for masking when making signs back in the day...sounds like we could use it for our stuff too. It's called Grip-Mask. Ever hear of it?

Grip-Mask may be a alternative way to mask and then cut the lines for painting.
http://www.signfinishes.com/\store\65393\TDS\091513 Grip-Mask Strippable Coating tds.pdf

Spray-Mask is the same thing I believe
http://www.custompainting.com/pages/shop_pages/spraymaskinfopage.htm


----------



## Bernard Guignar

Wow talk about patience and great work Looking forward to seeing pictures of the final unveiling. Keep up the great work :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## DarthSideous

Hi Trek Modeler,

Can you tell me what you use at the bottom of the engineering secondary hull to attach the model to its base? It appears to be a screw assembly that you connect to a panavise? I'd like to use this setup with this model and others but I'm not sure what the part is and where you get it.

Thanks


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks a lot guys!

It's a pretty simple procedure but time consuming. I'm sure there many ways to do this but I did it using the Aztek Dummy vinyl set and frisket masks. Once the templates are all applied and some random squares and rectangles are cut out of the friskets airbrush your blue iridescent on first. This will be your main pattern. Then without removing any of the masks begin applying your sub patterns in gold, red and green. Once you have enough painted on go ahead and carefully remove the vinyl templates and continue painting the subpattern within the white areas this time. That's pretty much it. just make sure that the lower saucer is more busy than the top. 

Here's a pic









The part on the lower secondary hull is a standard 8-pin mic connector from radioshack.


----------



## Flux Chiller

The other thing that helps the cause is the excellent quality of your photos - they make it very easy to understand what is going on. Once again, superb stuff! Thanks


----------



## junglelord

Well I am waiting for my second Refit, the second one has the Aztec patterns. I got my airbrush, need paints and some practice then off to the races. Thanks so much. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can.
:thumbsup:

Ever think of selling them?
Here is one on ebay, I am watching to see how well the seller does.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120537875744&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I remember a thread here for a poorly done unit that went for $4000 on ebay!
:freak:

I would like to sell a few, even at $600 to $800.
Yours are incredible.
The one on ebay is incredible too.


----------



## SteveR

Beautiful work and beautiful photos, both. 
Thanks man, for sharing this with us. You've raised the quality of refits everywhere!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Not a problem, Thank you all! I really appreciate it!

Junglelord, I actually used to sell frequently on ebay until a few years back. I may return to it soon. 

Been working all week on the lower saucer section. Still some more work to do but it's getting pretty close. 

Couple pics taken in low light









Zoomed out









One more, this time upper saucer in B&W a la cloudster


----------



## DarthSideous

The Trekmodeler said:


> Thanks a lot guys!
> ...The part on the lower secondary hull is a standard 8-pin mic connector from radioshack.


Thanks Trek Modeler for the info on the part, and thank you for sharing your inspirational pictures and techniques!


----------



## machgo

I've really been enjoying this thread. Absolutely beautiful paintwork. I'm about to take the plunge on this kit myself, and your pictures and descriptions are invaluable. One question though--did you use decals on the strongbacks? The greenish detail areas in front of the pylons? Thanks for an excellent build up!

"The strongback was painted using Model Master paints also, MM pale green, MM light gray, and MM flat white. I mixed up 4 shades of gray/green for this area. I used the darkest shade for the deflector(rear housing) and lightly sprayed the lightest shade of green/gray to create the different shades. I then sprayed some sparkling white pearl from wasco that I had on hand on top of the lightest area."

Oops! Missed this part. I'm even more impressed now!


----------



## junglelord

I am a noob, what is a strongback?


----------



## machgo

Well, if it's what I think it is, it's the area surrounding the pylons on the top of the cylindrical section of the ship. I'm not well versed in the technical stuff, so maybe I'm wrong....


----------



## SteveR

It's the place on the cigar-shaped secondary hull where the pylons attach. Greenish on the refit, bluish ("funny, it doesn't look bluish!") on the A.


----------



## junglelord

Alright, I got some irridesent blue and white primer. I will be doing my first airbrushing ever tomorrow. How exciting. I cannot thank you enough.
What an inspiration.
:thumbsup:


----------



## Dr. Gonzo

The Trekmodeler said:


> Couple pics taken in low light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zoomed out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more, this time upper saucer in B&W a la cloudster


These three pics are absolutely gorgeous. The black and white could easily be mistaken for a studio shot from cloudster.

Fantastic job!!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Hey guys! 

I can't thank you enough for the kind words!

The model is in it's final stages now. With the end near we've been preparing room lighting for photos because it's got to be just right before final pics are taken. We've also been playing around with some circle mirrors for the spotlights. We already had a small car inspection mirror and it works I think pretty well. Now if only we had 5 or 6 more of these. 

Pics


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

what about actual dental mirrors? I mean they have to be for sale somewhere, right?


----------



## junglelord

Pharmacy has dental mirrors, dirt cheap. Might even get them at the dollar store. I cannot wait to see it all lit up.
:thumbsup:

My second one came in, a reissue with aztec patterns.
I also have the first one without the patterns and the other support system.
I am off to get lacquer thinner and some primer white. I got my Irridesent blue for free. Also need the moisture trap filter for my brothers compressor.
Should be doing some practice passes on cardboard this afternoon.


----------



## Flatlander54

Amazing and gorgeous piece of work Trekmodeler! I really hope my skills progress to this level someday. This thread has inspired me to go get the PL 1/350 kit (which I did today) in hopes of doing a full lighting job and awesome paint job like this eventually. Good timing too, today is my 41st B-Day and I needed to treat mysef to a new kit, so I figured why not splurge on the 1/350 Enterprise! 
Wow! You really cant get a decent feel for the size of this kit until you open the box (I didn't anyway) and the first thing you see are the nacells and the saucer top...very impressive. Again...amazing work and great thread!


----------



## junglelord

I got two for my birthday, I will be 48 on the 23rd
So Happy Birthday to us
:hat:

Yes, for the money, best buy on the planet.
It is huge and very impressive.

We are inspired by this thread to achieve greatness.
:thumbsup:


----------



## MartinHatfield

I am totally loving the build and painting being presented here.

But I really do want my own lighting kit to show up at my door some time in the near future.


----------



## Warped9

This is the very best aztecking I have ever seen outside of the actual filming miniature for TMP. Awesome! :thumbsup:


----------



## Flatlander54

junglelord said:


> I got two for my birthday, I will be 48 on the 23rd
> So Happy Birthday to us
> :hat:
> 
> Yes, for the money, best buy on the planet.
> It is huge and very impressive.
> 
> We are inspired by this thread to achieve greatness.
> :thumbsup:


 Happy early B-Day to you junglelord!


----------



## Flatlander54

So how much assembly can be done prior to putting in a lighting kit? Im sure there is wiring that must be run up inside the pylons for the nacelles and up inside the neck for the saucer, correct?


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks guys very much!

I've picked up a dental mirror to test out and it looked a bit too small for the right spotlight effect. I'll have to pic up some larger diameter mirrors. Then I'll have to figure out how to focus them properly with a bright enough light source. 

For the lighting kit it would be best to assemble the neck and pylons after the wires are in place. 

The lower sensor dome is now done.


----------



## Gunstar1

The Trekmodeler said:


>


Question on the windows in this image Trekmodeler - appears that you have (appropriately) made the window openings slightly smaller than the original kit windows - did you (A) use the kit clear inserts or did you (B) fill with clear resin?

If A, it looks like maybe there is a tiny gap between the insert and the window, and the masks you did left a little paint lip 

OR if B, the paint did not quite cover enough and the dark of the window is showing through where the clear resin is.

Could you explain what we are seeing there? 
I ask because I have been worrying about how best to do windows given that they all need to be smaller than the kit version, and some need to be moved - I want to try and make them as flush and seamless as possible - I think no matter which way I go, I will have to end up with masking and then painting, but I don't want thick layers of paint left by a mask...... :freak:
Thanks! (and fantastic job)


----------



## MartinHatfield

Well, I now have my lighting kit from TrekModeler and it is AWESOME! 

This is just a bump to keep this forum near the top. I want to see more progress pics!


----------



## MartinHatfield

Lou Dalmaso said:


> well this gives me encouragement. Maybe I'll have something new to show at Wonderfest


So Lou...are we gonna get to see some "new and improved" detail masking for the 1:350 Refit? I can't attend Wonderfest myself, but I look forward to the reports coming from the ground.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

MartinHatfield said:


> So Lou...are we gonna get to see some "new and improved" detail masking for the 1:350 Refit? I can't attend Wonderfest myself, but I look forward to the reports coming from the ground.


<spock> If he has the time, Doctor...If ..he has..the ..time..."</spock>


name that episode!


----------



## SteveR

Arena? 

(not using Google)


----------



## SteveR

Trekmodeler, regarding the lights, you might need spots that focus using a lens. The original crew probably used fresnels, which can be focused tightly.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

SteveR said:


> Arena?
> 
> (not using Google)


you are correct, sir!


----------



## MartinHatfield

Another bump as we wait patiently for another update from TM on this fantastic build.


----------



## eagledocf15

*This looks fantastic!!*

You really are doing a fantastic job. Keep the updates coming! Looking forward to the next one.


----------



## MartinHatfield

..ahem....bump...

When are we going to get a new update on this fantastic project?


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

*I made it!*

It was a time crunch, and if you look closely at the pictures, you may see where I rushed things a bit, but I was able to get the refit set upgraded over the weekend and am proud to announce that *Version 3* will be unvieled at Wonderfest

Included in teh upgrade - More accurate strongback and deflector pieces, additional shapes for the nacelles and (by popular request) the lower sensor platform

I've checked with my retailers and will be sending special sheets out to upgrade their inventories so any new orders will be filled with version 3. I'm mulling the idea of offering just the new bits on a separate sheet, for resale- but that would depend on the demand, so if you want it, ask your online shop to stock it

see ya at the show!


----------



## MartinHatfield

Lou, since I already have the v2.0 set of templates, it would give me great pleasure if you would offer the new bits seperately.

These look awesome by the way!


----------



## eagledocf15

Lou Dalmaso said:


> It was a time crunch, and if you look closely at the pictures, you may see where I rushed things a bit, but I was able to get the refit set upgraded over the weekend and am proud to announce that *Version 3* will be unvieled at Wonderfest
> 
> Included in the upgrade - More accurate strongback and deflector pieces, additional shapes for the nacelles and (by popular request) the lower sensor platform
> 
> I've checked with my retailers and will be sending special sheets out to upgrade their inventories so any new orders will be filled with version 3. I'm mulling the idea of offering just the new bits on a separate sheet, for resale- but that would depend on the demand, so if you want it, ask your online shop to stock it
> 
> see ya at the show!


I also can not go to Wonderfest. I would love to get a set of Version 3 and a full set with Version 3. Thanks


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

they will be showing up in the online shops right after Wonderfest madness is over. I'm sure they will be happy to take your order


----------



## wayvryder

*Bridge color*

Can anyone tell me what color the front area under the bridge dome is? I'm referring to the area above the B/C decks that looks like a cross between pale gold and light flat yellow.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

I use a champaign gold for that


----------



## wayvryder

*Champagne Gold*

Lou,

The only Model Master Champagne Gold that I found is a metallic spray

Is this the one you're referring to? Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

the CG I use is a spray but is also a Duplicolor Auto color spray, not Model Master. If you need to run it thru an airbrush, you can always sprayit from the can into a smaller container then transfer the wet paint to your airbrush "jar".

I prefer to just mask the dickens out of the ship and spray from the can


----------



## wayvryder

Thanks Lou!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks so much for comments all! I know it's been a while. We are now in the final stages. Pics below taken a while back before final wiring too place. 

Gunstar, The masks did not fully cover the window. As a result there were rings of paint left over. I was going to score the paint off but I thought it looked pretty good in terms of scale so I decide not to fix that up. 

Thanks SteveR, it definitely makes sense because we've tried conventional light sources like lamps and they were ok but they just didn't produce the on screen effect.


----------



## Bobj812

Yay, an update! That is one lovely, lovely piece of work. Can't wait to see the finished model. When I see such outstanding jobs it gets me motivated to get off my duff and get crackin' on some models.
Thanks again for the new pics.


----------



## H.Erickson

Stunning, absolutely stunning. Awe inspiring...


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks alot Gents! We'll have more for you soon.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

A few more with the forward deflector housing in place. Sorry about the background, it's only temporary!:drunk:


----------



## MartinHatfield

What's with the four or five holes in the deflector? That doesn't even look like the kit part. What are you tryin' ta pull here?


----------



## The Trekmodeler

We decided to try and do a few things differently for this model in terms of lighting and paint.


----------



## SteveR

That's the inside part of the deflector -- basically the deflector reflector, right? The holes are the little LEDs -- 4 warm, 1 cool ...? 

... it's soon to be covered by the familiar outer deflector part.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Correct, there are 5 LEDs fixed into the housing. 4 are 3mm warm white and the one at the center is a 3mm blue. 

Flipped her over for some work on the rear of the connecting dorsal. 



















In this pic you can see some putty on the dorsal area


















Last she was on her back


----------



## MartinHatfield

I was confused by the number of holes in the deflector housing. I am assuming that you are using a different lighting system _(a custom one per the customer)_ than the one that you sell online.

The reason that I ask is that I bought one of the lighting kits, and had the instructions printed out and bound for ease of access. These instructions do not include many of the photos that are part of the example instructions on your website.

There is nothing in the instructions regarding the deflector itself. There is a page and photo referring to the rcs thrusters around the outside of the deflector housing. But nothing about the lighting of the actual deflector dish. I have hooked up the lights for testing, and there is only one led for each of the phases of the deflector. So how am I supposed to line these up when I get to that part of the kit?


----------



## The Trekmodeler

MartinHatfield said:


> I was confused by the number of holes in the deflector housing. I am assuming that you are using a different lighting system _(a custom one per the customer)_ than the one that you sell online.
> 
> The reason that I ask is that I bought one of the lighting kits, and had the instructions printed out and bound for ease of access. These instructions do not include many of the photos that are part of the example instructions on your website.
> 
> There is nothing in the instructions regarding the deflector itself. There is a page and photo referring to the rcs thrusters around the outside of the deflector housing. But nothing about the lighting of the actual deflector dish. I have hooked up the lights for testing, and there is only one led for each of the phases of the deflector. So how am I supposed to line these up when I get to that part of the kit?


4 warm white LEDs are actually overkill. On this model we did not cut a hole out of the deflector housing as usual because for this model we added some additional circuits resulting in much more wire leads in the main relay area. They got in the way of the deflector's light effect so we decided to leave the housing intact. Instead we drilled five 3mm holes at the center area to mount 4 warm white LEDs and one blue mounted at the very center. This is so the deflector light effect would not be uneven. For the lighting kit the 2 LEDs provided(warm white and blue) for the deflector are supposed to be mouted against the Polar Lights Refit kit's vertical guide pin column right behind the deflector. The 2 LEDs are to be mounted on top of each other right against the column facing forward.
Here's a pic


----------



## junglelord

I just got my third new refit for just $22 on the bay...
:thumbsup:

Nice wiring diagram, thanks.


----------



## MartinHatfield

Okay, thanks TM. That does help quite a bit.

On another subject, in the recent pictures, it looks as if you have filled in and sanded down the sensor bands around the saucer. Was this on purpose, or a fox for some sort of buld accident?


----------



## machgo

junglelord said:


> I just got my third new refit for just $22 on the bay...
> :thumbsup:
> 
> Nice wiring diagram, thanks.


How are you getting the 1/350 refit for $22?!?

It IS the 1/350 right?


----------



## junglelord

I did indeed get a 1/350 for $22!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130385708978
The seller had lost the instructions...so I got it for next to nothing!
It is the older one without the templates and the other base.
I got two older ones and one newer one.

I always watch the bay and sooner or later you get lucky.
:thumbsup::hat::wave:


----------



## machgo

Well that's a great score! Even with the high shipping, it's well worth it.


----------



## junglelord

This thread has made it an exciting idea and also made it conceivable.
:thumbsup:

I have the equpiment and with some flashing leds, I will be ready to put them together.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

No problem Junglelord and Congrats on that Refit catch, Awesome!

Martin, the sensor bands are still there. It's just that the shimmering paint arround them cause the bands to appear darker and lighter in shade depending on angle and light. These flip colors are a trip for sure, even the 'engineering greens' change with angle and light because of the interference paint surrounding them. In a certain angle and light they appear the usual green/gray but in a different angle and light they'd appear much much lighter almost a completely different shade.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

A quick aztec demo(secondary hull) Starboard side

http://www.mediafire.com/?ujzmnhwzdnm#1

The static version


----------



## galaxy_jason

Sweet!

The pearls are fun aren't they? I am thinking about trying them out on some RC helicopter blades. Would make some interesting effects in the sun.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks Jason! 

OH Yea, That they are, except I think they may have somewhat of a noticeable scale issue when it comes to the vibrance and off color. I assume they'd be better suited on larger scale models such as the Studio filming model and of course your amazing 1701-A model.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Decal stage has begun. 

We're using the PNT set for this model. They're a wonderful set!


----------



## JediPuju

man that is a thing of beauty!


----------



## Mr. Canoehead

Absolutely stunning!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thank You Very much guys!

Decals phase still going,

Some B&Ws


----------



## SteveR

Hmm ... no visible silvering between the letters, though the aztec finish doesn't seem completely glossy. Letters cut out separately?


----------



## Rizop

Been lurking a long time on these forums, and i had to join to comment on this build. This is just a truly amazing replica that you have made; it dawned on me that this might be the closest (so far) that any of us has seen to the actual TMP paint job, short of someone restoring the studio model to its original condition. Truly amazing work and an inspiration to refit fans everywhere!:thumbsup:


----------



## The Trekmodeler

SteveR said:


> Hmm ... no visible silvering between the letters, though the aztec finish doesn't seem completely glossy. Letters cut out separately?


Bingo!!

The decals were cut out separately. 

Decals in ambient light









Direct light bounce of the surface















Rizop said:


> Been lurking a long time on these forums, and i had to join to comment on this build. This is just a truly amazing replica that you have made; it dawned on me that this might be the closest (so far) that any of us has seen to the actual TMP paint job, short of someone restoring the studio model to its original condition. Truly amazing work and an inspiration to refit fans everywhere!:thumbsup:


Thank You sir I really appreciate it and Welcome aboard!:hat:


----------



## Bobj812

Man, I hope your client truly appreciates this when you're done. I can not wait to see it finished and lit up. It truly is a thing of beauty.


----------



## SteveR

That's one sharp knife you have, TM!



Rizop said:


> ... it dawned on me that this might be the closest (so far) that any of us has seen to the actual TMP paint job, short of someone restoring the studio model to its original condition.


So Trekmodeler's going to restore the original 1701-A miniature back to a Refit paint job? Huh? Huh? 

Now that would be a nice little contract ... no pressure ...


----------



## Rizop

SteveR said:


> That's one sharp knife you have, TM!
> 
> So Trekmodeler's going to restore the original 1701-A miniature back to a Refit paint job? Huh? Huh?
> 
> Now that would be a nice little contract ... no pressure ...


That's hilarious! Talk about one of the most nailbiting restoration tasks ever! With trekmodeler's skills, I truly believe that he could do it justice:thumbsup:. I do wonder if the original pearlescent paint (especially the secondary hull aztec beneath the strongback )still remains under all the other layers of repaint from the following movies.


----------



## Ace Airspeed

The Trekmodeler said:


> Bingo!!
> 
> The decals were cut out separately.


First off - absolutely *incredible* work! :thumbsup:

Now the question:

Did you seal the decals with anything / use any solvent to put them down?


----------



## kdaracal

Can anyone say "filming miniature?" What a beaut!


----------



## jasonalun

*Wow and wow*

Hey TM,

Thank you so much for taking the time and making the effort to post this. This is both incredibly beautiful and inspiring to other modelers. I was getting a little down on moving ahead on my 1/350 PL, with all the work I have to do just to get started (I have a utility room full of junk that needs a lot of cleaning and renovating just so I can use it as a modeling area) and seeing these has gotten me excited enough to get my butt moving on all that so I can get started. I'm sure mine will never look as great as this, but I can shoot for the stars and enjoy the process. I'm sure if I do that it will look good enough in the end that I can enjoy my final product. And I can always come here and drool over yours! :lol:

Can't wait to see the final product! :thumbsup:


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks a lot everyone! We're almost done with the decals and then it will be on to the final check up process before final photos are taken. The largest most familiar decals were all applied letter by letter so there wouldn't be any silvering. This was a must since we did not use any sealer just Micro-sol decal solvent. No sealers were used because they would have ruined the iridescent paint job for sure. 

A few more pics before the final product

Before ventral decals applied


----------



## machgo

I've really been enjoying looking at this awesome build! 

If I understand what you wrote above--any overcoating of the iridescent paints ruins the flip flop effect?


----------



## MartinHatfield

machgo said:


> I've really been enjoying looking at this awesome build!
> 
> If I understand what you wrote above--any overcoating of the iridescent paints ruins the flip flop effect?


Yeah, that is essentially the same way that ILM lost the pearl effect of the actual studio model when they took it from Apogee. They added a coat of flat to the paint to help with blue screen filming. The pearl paints were creating bizarre effects with the blue screen. The original shots for ST:TMP were done to an all black background.


----------



## Gunstar1

I think someone should post an example of raw iridescents, and show what it looks like with clear coats.

It doesn't make sense that a clear coat would change the effect of a paint which gets its properties from the pigments and not sheen.

I don't recall seeing anywhere (from the source info) that what was used to dull down the refit in ST:II was a CLEAR coat - I think that was assumed by people on the forums - from what I recall what was applied was actually opaque - not transparent - and it was applied to different areas with different intensities - (lots on engineering but not much on saucer for example)

Like I said.... someone prove me wrong with visual evidence....


----------



## MartinHatfield

Have you ever applied dullcoat over silver? Try it and see the difference.


----------



## Zombie_61

Gunstar1 said:


> It doesn't make sense that a clear coat would change the effect of a paint which gets its properties from the pigments and not sheen.


As I understand it the difference is in how the clear coat, whether flat or gloss, affects the way the ambient light hits and reflects off of the painted surface--less light reaching and reflecting off of the pearlescent paint means diminished visual effect.


----------



## Gunstar1

That's different than saying it destroys the effect - especially when you can mix the pearls much more vibrantly than you would ever need to for this ship, it makes no difference - and I don't think a layer or two of clear is going to change the refraction angle of the pearl.

.....still waiting for some visual proof from anyone who has some pearls and some clear coat.....


----------



## Avian

Gunstar1 said:


> ...It doesn't make sense that a clear coat would change the effect of a paint which gets its properties from the pigments and not sheen....


But the iridescent effect is not related to pigment. Iridescence comes from how light is refracted through differing density layers on a microscopic scale. _i.e._ a perfectly clear material can still exhibit iridescence.

I'm not disagreeing with you, just clarifying. Maybe the clear coat chemically affected the composition of the iridescent paints, changing their refractive qualities.


----------



## uscav_scout

I used Tamiya (probably spelled that wrong) while pearl (rattle can) paint on a 350 E and top coated with future. 

Still has the shifting paterns when light hits it.

of course 2 years of dust has dulled the top down a bit.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks for the comments guys! I think you all are on to something about the paint and what each of you guys said makes sense. 

Gunstar, I'd like to rephrase. The pearls will not actually die off no matter what clear coat is applied, whether gloss or dull. What will be affected instead is the overall metallic effect that the paint produces for the surface of the model. I'm not against clear coating in general but when it comes to painting the TMP Refit a natural looking metallic shine is a must. A clear coat just takes away that metallic effect.

Here are video demos that shows some of that metallic effect the paint produces. 

http://www.mediafire.com/?mm1nnzyjoxe

http://www.mediafire.com/?xmamdndiflm

Metallic appearance


----------



## Gunstar1

My turn to try and rephrase - - - 

My point is that I believe the iridescence is NOT affected by any clear coat.

Think about it - iridescent paint traditionally is more for automotive (real life) paint jobs, correct? It would be fair to say that the clear coat that contains the iridescent pigments is quite thick and has a sheen of its own, but that does not affect the function (METALLIC flip flopping) of the iridescent pigments.

Have you seen these pearl paints with a clear coat over it? Have you tried it?


----------



## SteveR

If we look at TM's last (excellent) shot, there is a sheen difference between the white and non-white areas of the secondary hull. This is consistent with the difference in sheen between matt and semi-gloss. 

Take a look at the port side of the sec hull in shots 2 vs. 3: the matt white areas appear slightly darker when a light source is reflected, but the iridescent areas appear slightly darker when a light source is not reflected. It's like matt black vs. gloss black -- where gloss black can be brighter than matt where it reflects a light source, but the matt black is slightly brighter when there's no source reflected.

This semi-gloss surface of the iridescent pigments versus the flat white is what shows a sheen variation in the paint job, and that's what TM might not want to lose.A clearcoat would keep the iridescence, but kill the sheen variation.

In my opinion.


----------



## Ace Airspeed

The Trekmodeler said:


> http://www.mediafire.com/?mm1nnzyjoxe
> 
> http://www.mediafire.com/?xmamdndiflm
> 
> Metallic appearance


*WOW!* :thumbsup:


----------



## machgo

WOW is right! 

Personally I could live with a little loss of sheen if I kept the flip flop--I just want to seal the decals is all.

Trekmodeler, any opinions/ideas about how "Raytheon lighting" affects the iridescent paint?


----------



## Gunstar1

SteveR said:


> If we look at TM's last (excellent) shot, there is a sheen difference between the white and non-white areas of the secondary hull. This is consistent with the difference in sheen between matt and semi-gloss.
> 
> Take a look at the port side of the sec hull in shots 2 vs. 3: the matt white areas appear slightly darker when a light source is reflected, but the iridescent areas appear slightly darker when a light source is not reflected. It's like matt black vs. gloss black -- where gloss black can be brighter than matt where it reflects a light source, but the matt black is slightly brighter when there's no source reflected.
> 
> This semi-gloss surface of the iridescent pigments versus the flat white is what shows a sheen variation in the paint job, and that's what TM might not want to lose.A clearcoat would keep the iridescence, but kill the sheen variation.
> 
> In my opinion.


Maybe that's how TM achieved his effect, but that's not how Olsen did it - Olsen painted on a surface that was so smooth it was almost polished, and there was no white space that had no pearl on it. He said (and I verified this very issue with him) that everything (white) had pearl on it - and different intensities - but all layered on top of each other.

The pearl paint shouldn't be affected (my understanding) by whatever paint is carrying it - whether it's clear matte or clear satin or clear gloss. 

Does anyone have any visual evidence and first-hand experience with a clear coat over pearls? It can be on a piece of scrap for all I care - I'm just looking for proof to back up the opinions


----------



## SteveR

Gunstar1 said:


> Maybe that's how TM achieved his effect, but that's not how Olsen did it ...


 Heh -- I thought we'd get into this again. I wasn't going to mention Olsen, since we're talking about TM. I bow out of any discussion on Olsen, and if TM used no flat, then I bow out there as well, agreeing that there's no surface sheen variance on his ship.


----------



## Gunstar1

Sorry - not trying to reopen old wounds - all I'm looking for is a physical example of a clearcoat on pearls - I too would prefer to seal the decals.

Anyone? ....Anyone? ....Beuller?


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks all! I've worked with similar paints before and clear coated over them to seal in the decals but the process ended up diminishing the whole 'TMP' look. I'll have a paint test done showing the pearls with and without a clear coat. This might be a dumb question though but was the original filming miniature actually sealed with any clear coating? I read they used rub down graphics so I've always wondered. 

Machgo, I'd say the Raytheon effect would do just fine. I've done back lit spots behind very similar paints before and as long as you've got enough light focused on the spotlight area the effect should be realistic. 

Been fiddling around with MS Paint trying to create familiar TMP shots. I uploaded one. The model's lights are not actually on, the windows were lit using ms paint.


----------



## machgo

Thanks very much! That's good news to me as I really want to use the paints you're using and do the spotlighting.


----------



## Gunstar1

The Trekmodeler said:


> Thanks all! I've worked with similar paints before and clear coated over them to seal in the decals but the process ended up diminishing the whole 'TMP' look. I'll have a paint test done showing the pearls with and without a clear coat. This might be a dumb question though but was the original filming miniature actually sealed with any clear coating? I read they used rub down graphics so I've always wondered.


Thanks Trekmodeler - I recall that as well with the rub-down graphics.....which makes me think - why would any of us NOT want to do rub down transfers??? I have no experience with them... anybody here? Is it an issue of cost? Quality? Durability? If those issue do not exist - I would think rub-down transfers would be ideal for this ship in terms of avoiding any unnecessary clear-coating/sealing.......


----------



## Fozzie

Well, with rub-down transfers you have to get them placed EXACTLY right the first time--and I rarely do that!


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

plus the act of rubbing down is harder on the surface of the kit than water slide. and rub downs can crack as well and there is no repositioning ( as stated above)


----------



## Shaw

The Trekmodeler said:


> Thanks all! I've worked with similar paints before and clear coated over them to seal in the decals but the process ended up diminishing the whole 'TMP' look. I'll have a paint test done showing the pearls with and without a clear coat. This might be a dumb question though but was the original filming miniature actually sealed with any clear coating? I read they used rub down graphics so I've always wondered.


My reference image library includes two images of the decals used for the original building of the model (one is of the original decals, the other is the modified decals they eventually went with for TMP)... and both look like normal (though large) sheets of decals.

I have one image of the decals being set on the top saucer, it looks like they were applying a setting solution using a Q-tip, so I doubt they were doing any form of large scale coating. And I think they took the extra time to cut the decals out individually (at least for the large letters/numbers).

I haven't followed the Refit model's history all that closely, but the model had been finished and then redone before being filmed for TMP. The model as originally finished included the same pearl paint job, so that means that not only were sections rebuilt after the original painting was applied, but a set of decals were applied and removed before the final set were put in place.


By the way... beautiful model! :thumbsup:


----------



## Gunstar1

I have those reference images too.... and I do know that the ship was resurfaced/detailed/graphic'd at least once before filming.... so I don't know at what stage that decal photo was taken or when a rub-down graphic was used -I need to review some written sources.....

So then the question is, 

* if the final product of the TMP Enterprise used decals, what is the best process to ensure no/minimal silvering/yellowing without reducing the pearl effect?

* if the final product of the TMP Enterprise used rub-down transfer, would it be worth it to attempt it? (and what is the best way to achieving that)


----------



## Shaw

Gunstar1 said:


> I have those reference images too.... and I do know that the ship was resurfaced/detailed/graphic'd at least once before filming.... so I don't know at what stage that decal photo was taken or when a rub-down graphic was used -I need to review some written sources.....


Well, I know that the original decals were applied to the model in it's original configuration (including the tons of extra red contour lines around the model), and that the lower sensor dome and bridge/b/c deck structure were later removed and replaced during the model's modifications. After the modifications the model was photographed without any decals.

In the image of the decals being placed, the model has the new/improved bridge/b/c deck structure.

So that is why I place that image as the final application of the decals.


----------



## SteveR

From my old Letraset days, I recall that it was always a good idea to seal the transfers after applying ... but doing so would defeat the purpose of avoiding clearcoat with decals, wouldn't it?

A while ago, I was working on a four-step major/minor aztec pattern, drawn in Illustrator then laser-cut by a sign shop. The pattern was wrong, and the choice of paint was wrong (water-based), so I let it go for a while. This would have been the process: paint the ship with one mask per color (like Lou's templates times four!), coat with future, apply decals normally, then matte coat the whole thing, then (here's the kicker) mask again with a major aztec pattern (fifth pattern!), then spray with semi-gloss such as Micro Scale. 

However ... aside from the registration nightmare, it might not even look good, and it might kill the effect anyway. (shrug)


----------



## Rizop

this might seem a little off topic but did anyone notice how "white" the refit looked in star trek III? from the opening scene, to the battle with the BOP, it almost seemed like ILM lit the ship really bright compared with their work done on TWOK and subsequent movies. Or maybe i'm just imagining things


----------



## Zombie_61

Rizop said:


> this might seem a little off topic but did anyone notice how "white" the refit looked in star trek III? from the opening scene, to the battle with the BOP, it almost seemed like ILM lit the ship really bright compared with their work done on TWOK and subsequent movies. Or maybe i'm just imagining things


I thought that as well. In fact, it seemed to me that the Enterprise had less apparent surface detail in each sequel than it did in the previous film. When I saw _Star Trek VI: The Undiscovered Country_ the first time, by the time they got to that shot (just before they destroy General Chang's Bird of Prey) that clearly showed the detail on the "strongback", around the deflector dish, etc., I recall thinking, "Where did all of _that_ come from???"


----------



## Flux Chiller

Indeed, ST3 to me, gives the impression of of a lack of consistency with the way they were lighting and post processing. 

Going back to the decal argument, why would you need to seal the TMP ship before applying decals?? - ok you might need it for longevity, but they weren;t after that - they only needed the decals to last during shooting (no one thinks in terms of more than one film) - I have several models where I have applied direct to a surface so as not to affect the tonal variations I have - I just have to accept the decals might need replacing at some point in the future. But then they often do as they fade anyway. 

When I examined the Stargazer model in London Sci museum back in the 90's, I noticed all the decals were flaking off, they were not sealed or anything, and the underlying surface was matt. But you could see evidence of different registry numbers underneath - certainly makes it easy to remove and change ship names and numbers, and I have even found this myself when I wanted to replace all the fading letters and lines on some of my Ertl efforts.


----------



## SteveR

Flux Chiller said:


> Going back to the decal argument, why would you need to seal the TMP ship before applying decals??


I suspect the ship needs to be sealed (with gloss) before waterslide decals to avoid silvering. I don't think it needs to be sealed before dry transfers, but I could be wrong.

Sealing _after_ dry transfers was recommended (back in the day) in the case of handling. Of course, if the person who applies the transfers also made them (in the case of an effects miniature), then making replacements and re-applying after the old ones flake off wasn't a big deal, probably. But I'd want to make sure the dry transfers on my model never flaked off, because they might be hard to replace in the future.


----------



## Rizop

Zombie_61 said:


> I thought that as well. In fact, it seemed to me that the Enterprise had less apparent surface detail in each sequel than it did in the previous film. When I saw _Star Trek VI: The Undiscovered Country_ the first time, by the time they got to that shot (just before they destroy General Chang's Bird of Prey) that clearly showed the detail on the "strongback", around the deflector dish, etc., I recall thinking, "Where did all of _that_ come from???"



Yup, felt exactly the same way about that shot in VI. The opening scent in III with the enterprising cruising forward just looks really bleached!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

The results of the experiment are in. Sorry for the wait guys!

Here are the pics. 

Figure 1









Firgure 2









Figure 3









Figure 4










And a video
http://www.mediafire.com/?yjoydlmiyth

Green and red Wasco irridescent paints were airbrushed onto a spare part that was evenly polished. The first half was left free of any clear coat. The other half was sprayed with gloss lacqer out of the can. 

The findings...
Firstly, the pearl pigments appear to be completely unaffected by the clear coat(see fig 1 and 2). It did however neutralize the matte/gloss effect(see fig 3 and 4) on the surface which was also apparent on the studio model from a certain angle and light. These Trekcore HD captures show a faint matte/gloss surface variance.



























The apparent surface texture/sheen variance in the above screencaps is what leads me to believe that no clear coat was applied to the filming model. 

In conclusion a clear coat will not affect the pearl pigments themselves but it will even out or neutralize any surface sheen/texture variance that would add scale and realism to the model.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Blue screen backdrop test


----------



## machgo

That's very kind of you to run that test, and take pictures and video, in the middle of finishing up a customer build! Thanks! Myself, I can live with those results--I hope I can acheive them.


----------



## Gunstar1

Thank you so much for that example TM - I agree that it is extremely unlikely that the studio model was clear-coated - but I believe that the lacquers used were glossy enough to create a fairly glossy/satin-y sheen overall - and I think your example shows that it would work with a slightly less-gloss coat than what you used.... 

Keep in mind, the kind of angle you showed where all detail was lost in the angle of light heavily reflecting, the TMP model was never shot in "similar" conditions where you have a ton of light reflecting ("blinding") the surface details - except possibly one shot - when the Enterprise engages at "warp point five" and you start close up to the impulse engines and it zooms away - on the port side of the ship everything is muted - clearly direct light on the ship (one of the very few times) enough to cast a dark shadow - and the side in sunlight is warm gray due to the underexposed film technique they used (to deal with the very reflective surface as one of the effects people said I believe)..... I think that scene may be demonstrating what you showed us with the coated side.... in what medium are you spraying the pearls (originally powders, right?).... I don't know that I've seen pearls really applied in a glossy medium - except maybe Disillusionist's Refit..... 

ALSO - look at the image below, and watch your TMP dvd's for the example (and best clarity - the image below is a cap I made years ago from the DE - not blu ray) This shot is a very good example of how glossy the surface was - note the lights reflecting at the top edge of the hull - and why I think a satin clear coat would be appropriate - especially to differentiate between the white and green/blue (much more matte) areas of the ship.

Again, thank you for saving me the trouble of needing to dabble in rub-down transfers! :thumbsup:


----------



## SteveR

Yes, thanks for posting the shots and video. You know, I'm kinda liking the polished look in the video, though toned-down a bit as Gunstar1 suggests.


----------



## JGG1701

Now how can you paint this before assembly and not have any seams or mess to deal with?
Or get any dirt on your finished paint?
PM me if ya like & give me the details.
Thanks
-Jim


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Not a problem guys. The matte/gloss appearance that is sometimes seen appears only at a certain angle and light. From other angles however the model's surface shows to be evenly reflective with no satiny flip flop at all. I believe the key to the Enterprise's strong overall sheen is its well polished surface. On the model I'm currently working on we used a semi-gloss white and decided to lightly polish to increase the overall reflectivity. The pearl pigments we used are a combination of pre-mixed and dry. The dry pigments were mixed with a clear gloss lacquer and their appearance didn't change that much if at all when airbrushed compared to the pre-mixed pearls that's why I believe the key is actually how well your surface is polished. 

This lit test shot shows at least some even surface reflectivity. 









JGG1701, We only painted the saucer while detached. We first masked areas that would later receive glue. When the paint job was completed and everything was attached a very small amount of white putty was applied to the neck/saucer seam, sanded, masked and then airbrushed. We also always make sure that there has a proper fit before glueing. The area under the aftermarket impulse engine was a little tricky. It had to be partially sculpted out of Aves putty. After glue, white putty was applied to the area and then sanded. The white putty area was later hand brushed with the same blue/gray paint.


----------



## MartinHatfield

*MY 1000th POST!*

OMG! Trekmodeler, that is freakin' sweet awesome!! On so many levels!! 

Okay, so how did you get the purple tint to the warp nacelle grilles? Please do tell.

Oh, and when can we expect the "Trekmodelers Complete guide to painting the 1:350 refit Enterprise"? I sooo want a copy of that on my computer ASAP!!

I am blown away by your skills on this build. I know that you have dome several other builds in the past, but this one belongs in the history books.

I bow to the skills of you and your team.


----------



## Gunstar1

The Trekmodeler said:


> From other angles however the model's surface shows to be evenly reflective with no satiny flip flop at all. I believe the key to the Enterprise's strong overall sheen is its well polished surface. On the model I'm currently working on we used a semi-gloss white and decided to lightly polish to increase the overall reflectivity.



How did you go about polishing? Polishing after pearls were applied?

In that picture I noticed some of the surface elevation created by masking the pearls (on the pylon) - any way around this?


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks so much Martin! A paint guide is definitely on the to-do list. We took a lot of notes this time around. They will eventually be compiled and turned into a paint guide. Purple tint? What purple tint?









Only kidding, we have both blue and purple nacelles. There was no tinting this time, we used blue LEDs and pink ones. 










Gunstar, That's what happens when the ol' girl is hit too hard with the pearls. I hadn't noticed how much the edges were raised until that test shot. The port wing was since fine sanded. 

Tracy Mann actually suggested I use the Micro-Mesh polishing kit to get rid of any raised paint edges. It's a Fantastic kit! The model was lightly polished before the pearls were airbrushed. 

We're trying to get the hang of photographing this model. This is pretty difficult because depending on the angle and light the model can appear metallic, shiney, satin, flat, then there's the off color and it can even appear a plain white. Here are some tests before the final ones are taken.


----------



## Bobj812

Just so you know, it's really hard to talk after your jaw hits the floor several times... Awesome work!


----------



## OzyMandias

Trekmodeler, the work you have done on this kit is just gob-smackingly beautiful. I'm in awe. I have one of the original PL kits and I'm frankly too scared to take it on because of the paint job. 
You really have done a superb job!


----------



## Trek Ace

I think that this is the best PL refit I've seen so far. Having the correctly-shaped impulse deck makes or breaks it for me. This one looks terrific.


----------



## KUROK

That model is stunning to say the least.
How many hours do you think you have put into it?


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Can't Thank You enough guys!

Some more pics. The first few focused on the model's lighting.









Blue grills









Purple grills









Grills off


----------



## Rizop

"And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by"

Absolutely beautiful! I'm sure you have done the TMP special effects crew,Abel & associates, magicam, etc.. proud!


----------



## JerryUK

Rather stunning achievement
To help us mere mortals, have you considered documenting + publishing how you acheived this amazing result ( suggestion on-line pdf download..I'd even pay for a copy!)


----------



## MartinHatfield

JerryUK said:


> Rather stunning achievement
> To help us mere mortals, have you considered documenting + publishing how you acheived this amazing result ( suggestion on-line pdf download..I'd even pay for a copy!)


Please refer to the TEXT in post #223.


----------



## Maritain

Gorgeous, simply gorgeous.


----------



## Magesblood

do not scare or intimidate the noobs.


----------



## SteveR

Hey, TM -- have you been able to take a shot with a light edge-lighting the ship from angled behind (with some fill), Voyager-style? It would help to show the ship's lights yet still give some shape to the silhouette.

Voyager image here.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thank You kind sirs!

Steve, Great idea! 

Final pics are finally in


----------



## The Trekmodeler

More...
Tried to get the famous Cloudster publicity shot


----------



## The Trekmodeler

This shot shows a similar surface effect to the filming model

















And in very low light


----------



## Gunstar1

fantastic shots TM. any chance you could squeeze in a fairly orthographic side photo?

Keep up with replicating angles from the movies/publicity photos. Love it! More references for the rest of us!


----------



## SteveR

You're like a new father there ...  What a beautiful baby!


----------



## junglelord

This is such a nice shot


----------



## Zombie_61

Without question, this is the best build-up I've seen of this kit to date. Absolutely stunning; it could easily be used as a filming model. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thank You all so much!

Now for some more pics and a side ortho as requested has been uploaded.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

These mostly close up and focus on paint


----------



## eagledocf15

*Excellent work. Keep the updates coming !!!!!*

Excellent work. Keep the updates coming !!!!!


----------



## Gunstar1

sweet - thanks TM - much appreciated


----------



## Rizop

TM, i could look at pics of this forever. This could be the closest we'll get to seeing the tmp enterprise in her "untarnished" form. Truly beautiful...i keep thinking this is the studio model!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Hangar Bay doors open


----------



## SteveR

Her beauty is more than skin deep!


----------



## DonS

Polar Lights should buy that from you and advertise it as the ultimate example of what their kit can be built into...they'd increase sales tenfold.


----------



## KUROK

Your customer on this one is going to be floored. It is flawless!


----------



## mactrek

Absolutely breath-taking, jaw-dropping, and awe-inspiring! :thumbsup:

It makes most of the models I've done look like I colored them with crayons. :freak:

I hate you. 

Seriously, I hope you'll publish a detailed "how-to" guide with paint specs and parts list etc.

Great job!


----------



## OzyMandias

Oh my word! Is that Kirk and Scotty doing a zip around the Shuttle bay in the travel pod?

Extraordinary!


----------



## Opus Penguin

I would be interested in a painting guide as well as this is fantastic work. In the guide you should provide sample patterns for friskets to create the multiple smaller panels!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thank You all for the words of kindess! :dude:

A shot of the lower saucer. This was an attempt to recreate the shot of the ship right before the spotlight shines on the registry. A hi-resolution version of the pic is also attached.


----------



## JeffG

Absolutely stunning! Scotty would go into a room with these photos, shut the door and come out hours later drenched in sweat with his hair messed up! Beautiful work.


----------



## JediPuju

lol Jeff, "I know this ship like the PALM of my hand"


----------



## IRML

I've been reading the various TMP paint threads, and I read people saying the entire ship was coated in blue, and then the aztecs go on in green, then the random panels start, the whole ship is covered in at least 1 layer of pearl so it appears glossy because of this

from what I can tell this doesn't seem correct to me, it looks like the aztecs are in blue and I can't see any green in the negative, also the blue aztecs stick out far more suggesting there's no gloss in the negative, so maybe it was instead that just the blue aztecs went on to the base and then the random panels were added

the way you've done it looks more like what I expect to see, I was just wondering what your thoughts were on this

also when the paints aren't catching the light they look to be darkening the surface, could you tell me what colours they are? for the most part the dark bits look a bit yellow, but I maybe see some of them looking grey/blue, I was hoping you could tell me what paint does what in this respect

sorry if you've already covered this, I haven't read the whole thread


----------



## The Trekmodeler

LOL at Jeff and Jedi!:lol:


IRML
On this model we used iridescent blue for the main Aztec pattern. Iridescent gold, green and red subpatterns were airbrushed within the positive and negative parts of the primary blue pattern. The pearls were introduced onto a lightly polished semi-gloss white surface. The yellow 'off color' is actually the blue iridescent, the gold flips to gray, the green flips to red and red flips to green.

The studio filming model as I understand it was first well polished, then lightly airbrushed with iridescent blue all over the white areas. The initial blue coat was thin enough that when more of the blue was sprayed on top of it there would still be a contrast. The base color area would still look white compared but the metallic effect produced by the iridescent paint was present evenly throughout the model save for the strongback, deflector housings, pylon blow-out panels, some detail on the bridge and B/C deck, saucer rim sensor bands, and the lower saucer sensor dome...er, i mean the part just around, the actual center dome. That center dome I believe was layered with all 4 iridescent paints creating that solid metal look.

One more shot of the lower saucer this time with spotlight effect.

TMP Screen shot


----------



## eagledocf15

*This is stupendous*

Fantastic work!!! Phenomenal


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks all!

Final Wave of pics now. 








































































Some Hi-resolution ones uploaded


----------



## The Trekmodeler

More...














































Video demos
http://www.mediafire.com/?komfaj3wqw2

http://www.mediafire.com/?tknvnnntymm

http://www.mediafire.com/?jmnojog3zyy

http://www.mediafire.com/?wgymqtwu3zq

More hi-res shots posted on Resinilluminati
http://resinilluminati.com/showthread.php?t=9650&page=2


----------



## eagledocf15

*This never fails to amaze me*

Again Excellent work!!!!


----------



## MartinHatfield

Hey Trekmodeler, whats is going on with that painting guide that you said you would do? hmmm?


----------



## eagledocf15

*I also would like to sign up for the painting guide!*

I also would like to sign up for the painting guide!
What a masterpiece! Best Wishes.


----------



## kdaracal

Very few builds tempt me to use the pictures as wallpapers/screen savers on my computer..........Beautiful build, of course, but your camera work is also an art. 

And you, Sir, are a master builder AND a master photographer.


----------



## lizzybus

Incredible......

the actual words that came out of my mouth beyond my control when i saw that first vid sounded a bit like "cluck bee!"....i'm not kidding....the paint finish on this model is nothing short of modelers "holy grail" stuff!

Congratulations.....an absolute masterpiece...., however, every other "trekmodeller" on here now feels very insecure and frightened, myself included!!!

Rich


----------



## Zombie_61

lizzybus said:


> Congratulations.....an absolute masterpiece...., however, every other "trekmodeller" on here now feels very insecure and frightened, myself included!!!
> 
> Rich


I concur. The level of skill exhibited in this build is, to say the least, intimidating.


----------



## eagledocf15

*Book request*



MartinHatfield said:


> Hey Trekmodeler, whats is going on with that painting guide that you said you would do? hmmm?


I have been thinking on the Painting guide. Why not a book or DVD on the whole building process? You can even include suggestions’ made by others on this or other forums for their construction. You can include instructions on your electronics updates that can be installed in the kit.
The photos of the model really do show a level of detail and effort that is amazing. Your pictures and the model are humbling and scary [wow, can I do that type of mental questioning]. For the rest of us mere mortals, the encouragement of seeing what can be done is exhilarating. Again Bravo Sir!


----------



## waterman

Yes, for this kind of fine craftsmanship, I'd probably purchase a DVD of your building/painting process. :thumbsup:

By the way, a while ago, I purchased one of your lighting kits from a guy on Ebay. Back then, the instructions weren't so clear to me, but after lurking here for a while, I have a better understanding of the process.


----------



## MML

The Trekmodeler said:


> Thanks all!



My god, that is astonishing work. That looks like a screengrab from the film!


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Thanks for all the kind words guys!

We were commissioned by Robert Meyer Burnett to build this particular piece.


----------



## SteveR

I'm still amazed at the paint job. You've really nailed it! Thanks for sharing your great work with us.


----------



## MartinHatfield

MartinHatfield said:


> Hey Trekmodeler, whats is going on with that painting guide that you said you would do? hmmm?


Allow me to repost this question, since I am still very eager to get ahold of such a guide.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

The paint guide is in the works currently. It will feature color illustrations and notes. All of the illustrations for the guide are complete we now just have to complete the notes part of it.


----------



## MartinHatfield

Awesome news TM. Since I am currently at work on installing your excellent lighting kit, I cannot wait to get your info on painting this beauty.


----------



## eagledocf15

*Fantastic News*



The Trekmodeler said:


> The paint guide is in the works currently. It will feature color illustrations and notes. All of the illustrations for the guide are complete we now just have to complete the notes part of it.


I can't wait. Let us know how to get these!!!!


----------



## CLBrown

This is some truly incredible work... I'm floored. Great job!

As for me, when I work on something, I'm always looking for criticism as well as praise, though (provided that the criticism is "constructive" in nature).

So... I have a couple of things that leapt out at me as I was viewing your images.

First.. I'm not really happy with the phaser turrets... they don't look like the image I see in my mind's eye, based upon seeing them on-screen. To me, the phaser "balls" themselves always looked like metallic balls, although surrounded by a mustard "warning zone" on the hull. In your model, at least in these photos, they don't resemble, to me, the bare-metal balls I "feel like" I saw on-screen.

Second, there's the impulse engine assembly. I can tell that you did the "light box" internally, which I really like. But I think you'd have been a lot better off by painting it white, or better yet, rebuilding those "light boxes" out of mirrors. At least in these images, it looks like the interior of the "light boxes" are actually black... and the images certainly don't look like the images I've seen on-screen.

Finally, I'm not crazy about the prominent "window sils" visible in many of your shots. I've always thought that the windows should be totally flush with the outer hull (at last so far as it would appear in a model of this scale!)

Those are my only negative comments. Now, to balance that...

I'm THRILLED to see the proper, pink/purple inner nacelle grills. (I can't see the outer nacelle grill backlight, though... so I can't tell if it's the proper yellow tint... but I suspect it is, since you got the colors so right elsewhere.)

I also just LOVE what you did with the deflector... and I'm curious if you set that up as a simple "switch" or if you can "blend" between the two appearances?

Again... your paint work is magnificent... and the electronics are impressive. My critiques are intended to be constructive... but those things really do "bug me" when seeing the images.

(To be fair, I doubt that they'd bug me nearly as much if it weren't for the fact that your model, otherwise, is such a remarkable match for the on-screen film model!)


----------



## BolianAdmiral

How much will the painting guide cost? I'd love to get one, but IDK if I'll be able to afford it.


----------



## HDATX

Trekmodeler, I'm currently installing your lighting kit, which by the way is great, and was wondering in your models do you install the windows that come with the kit or do you use clear resin or some other product? What do you recommend? Also, I in absolute awe over your painting skills. I too would buy any guide you produce to help me along with painting my refit. To everyone, I would say, if you don't want to spend the time ordering and purchasing every hen-picking thing you need to properly light the 1/350 refit then you cannot do any better than the kit from Trekmodeler.


----------



## mechinyun

Any news on the painting guide?


----------



## Maritain

Beautiful!!!


----------



## Tiberious

I HATE it when this thread comes back to life! I have to start at the beginning and re-read it. I'd emailed TM via his website to inquire into a build...he must be in cahoots with my wife as I never got a response 

In any case, this is amazing work and I'd LOVE to have something like this next to my MR Enterprise, fantastic work TM!

Tib


----------



## eagledocf15

*Painting Guide*

I for one am glad this post is back on line. I would still love a Painting Guide!!!


----------



## Trekkriffic

Astonishing! This is a stupendous achievement!


----------



## gluejunky

The Trekmodeler said:


> The paint guide is in the works currently. It will feature color illustrations and notes. All of the illustrations for the guide are complete we now just have to complete the notes part of it.


i would reeaally like to get one


----------



## gluejunky

anyone know how to get a hold of trekmodeler? ive e-mailed him, called but no answer, left messages.....all with no reply


----------



## eagledocf15

*I wish I knew how to get hold of TrekModeler*

I would love the painting guide, but I have not been able to contact him either. Anyone got a clue?


----------



## mechinyun

Bumpity Bump! 

Scooby Doo.. where are you!?


----------



## kdaracal

I forgot how beautiful this is. What a treat.


----------



## FireDragn

Just Beautiful. No other words can describe your work.


----------



## FlyAndFight

I think I just maxed out my harddrive just right-clicking & saving all of TrekModeler's pics! 

Just a quick note to say that I ordered the lighting kit a week or so ago and I know that the wait for it to arrive will be brutal. Really looking forward to starting my own Enterprise and utilizing all of the fantastic information found in this thread.

Alexander


----------



## Chrisisall

Awesomeness.....


----------



## arjuna909

*Something to aspire to.*

Amazing paint work and a great thread.

Does anyone have any news on the seemingly-mythical painting guide by The Trekmodeler?


----------



## Opus Penguin

Trekmodeler seems to have disappeared. I am hoping he is okay and does release the painting guide. This example is how I want my refit to look so I hope to be able to purchase the guide whenever available.


----------



## mechinyun

I have given up and moved on.


----------



## checksum

Does the fact that TrekModeler seems to have disappeared mean I shouldnt buy a lighting kit from TrekModeler.com? Hopefully he's ok...


----------



## Chrisisall

checksum said:


> Does the fact that TrekModeler seems to have disappeared mean I shouldnt buy a lighting kit from TrekModeler.com? Hopefully he's ok...


Everyone get distracted by Real Life.*



* Real Life: that which demands attention that trumps models & toys, even though it sucks.:tongue:


----------



## checksum

OK, I didnt know if maybe TrekModeler had disappeared from his site too. I just dont want to lay down 290 dollars for a lighting kit to find out that bad things happened and I wont be getting the kit or my money back. 
Thanks


----------



## CLBrown

checksum said:


> OK, I didnt know if maybe TrekModeler had disappeared from his site too. I just dont want to lay down 300 dollars for a lighting kit to find out that bad things happened and I wont be getting the kit or my money back.
> Thanks


Been there, myself... I ordered a few items from Corey McDaniels (McDaniel Models) some years ago, and it took ages for him to fulfill my order. He eventually explained to me that he was ill, having severe health problems, and so forth. I was sympathetic, but still required either a full immediate refund or receipt of my purchase. He did ship me the items I had bought (A vac-form-and-resin Surya, a vac-form-and-resin Endeavor, and a resin Akyazi), all of which were really very nice kits, and I'm quite pleased with how they turned out. 

The problem is... "real life" in my case meant that I couldn't just spend the money and have it disappear and never get my purchase. So, from that point forward, I've never spent the first dime with someone for "non-commercial" product unless I'm able to communicate... in person... with that person first. I'm not blaming Corey... he was really, really in dire circumstances. It was my fault for not confirming that he would be in a position to fulfill my order in a timely manner.

We learn by doing. I learned not to spend money if I don't have a pretty firm guarantee of a timely fulfillment of my order. :thumbsup:


----------



## arjuna909

checksum said:


> OK, I didnt know if maybe TrekModeler had disappeared from his site too. I just dont want to lay down 290 dollars for a lighting kit to find out that bad things happened and I wont be getting the kit or my money back.
> Thanks


Thanks for the heads-up. I was just about to order a lighting kit myself. Now I'll be a bit more careful before using their shopping cart. He does amazing work and there's probably a perfectly good reason why he's not communicated recently, but it does bear a little caution.


----------



## Opus Penguin

I decided to email him on his site and see if I get a response. I am not expecting much but I will let everyone know if I hear something.


----------



## Opus Penguin

Just received this:


Hi there, 

Thank you for contacting us!

We are absolutely still in business! The paint guide is still being refined. The lighting kits are still available for order. 

Best Regards, 

The TM Team


----------



## checksum

I actually ordered a lighting kit 2 days ago from TrekModeler so Ill keep everyone updated as to when I get my lighting kit.


----------



## arjuna909

checksum said:


> I actually ordered a lighting kit 2 days ago from TrekModeler so Ill keep everyone updated as to when I get my lighting kit.


Thanks, and please do.


----------



## gluejunky

Opus Penguin said:


> Just received this:
> 
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Thank you for contacting us!
> 
> We are absolutely still in business! The paint guide is still being refined. The lighting kits are still available for order.
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> The TM Team


so why dont you try answering your dang emails and pm's !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! very poor business practice. ive e-mailed you AND pmed you both from here AND your own site. i would have bought a lighting kit from you months ago but ended up going elsewhere


----------



## Opus Penguin

gluejunky said:


> so why dont you try answering your dang emails and pm's !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! very poor business practice. ive e-mailed you AND pmed you both from here AND your own site. i would have bought a lighting kit from you months ago but ended up going elsewhere


Ummm ... I am not Trekmodeler so not sure why you are saying this to me. However, I went directly to his site and contacted him and the response was what I received. You may want to try going to his site directly. It is possible he is not frequenting the Hobbytalk sites anymore which may explain the lack of response.


----------



## gluejunky

ah crap! i didnt read the top of your post...or the previous posts, :lol im real sorry  i'll pay better attention next time. 

it would be one thing if i only sent e-mails on this site to them, but i have e-mailed them several times through there own web site and never have got a responce.


----------



## Opus Penguin

No worries. I figured you didn't realize I wasn't Trekmodeler. I understand your frustration. Checksum ordered from them. Hopefully we will hear good news.


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## checksum

So far its been about 7 days. And although Paypal took my money and sent me a receipt I havent heard anything from TrekModeler. No tracking number and no email. So, Im gonna give it a few more days before I email them. Hopefully its already on its way here and they just didnt send a conformation email.
Now looking at the website it does say at the top in Big Bold letters "All New & Now Available" Which gave me the impression that I was ordering something that was in stock and ready to ship out. But reading down the page in the smaller print I see things like, "Each Lighting Kit is hand-made when your order is placed" and waaay down at the bottom it says, "Due to the overwhelming number of orders placed, current estimate before lighting kit ships to a customer is 6-8 weeks from the time the order is placed". I guess I did not see the fine print when I ordered. But I do have 1 week down with 5-7 more to go. Plus, it will give me time to paint this beast...
I just wish I would have gotten an email from TrekModeler confirming he's got my order.


----------



## Opus Penguin

I would email and ask for a confirmation. Don't wait the few days. I would want to be sure if it was me.


----------



## Tiberious

I went to his site inquiring after a TMP build over a year ago with no response....guess its a good thing as they deleted my job position as of Sep 30 so the money is better spent on bills....but darnit I sure wanted an amazing TMP ship!

Tib - who lacks the skills to do it himself with similar quality


----------



## checksum

Can anyone answer this for me? Considering this is my first actual model build. Can I do detail painting of the main parts before I get the lighting kit? Or do I have to wait to get the kit, then assemble the sub-assemblies and then feed the lighting kit parts thru and then put the entire model together... then paint it? Or can I temporarily assemble the sub assemblies so I can do the aztecing then add the lighting kit after I get it painted? 
I really dont know what order to do it all in. I have started to paint the base coat or undercoat and am just about ready to start doing the aztecing with some Wasco iredescent color changing paints like the OP did. I just dont know if I should start assembling the sub-assemblies or wait to get the lighting kit...


----------



## Garbaron

Depends. 

There are those who paint before putting the parts together and there are those, like me, who assemble first and paint later. So the question is, which one are you? I prefer to put everything together first before I start paint work, since I hate it to fix up a good paint job that got busted by the unavoidable putty sanding routine and usually the second go never looks as good as the first one did.


----------



## Opus Penguin

Agreed. This is the route I prefer to go.


----------



## checksum

Thanks guys


----------



## dlogix

Well, the one thing you can do in the meantime is "lightblock" the interior of the parts if you are going to drop that lighting kit in… that should keep you busy enough for now…I wouldn't worry about any detail painting it yet, until you have your build together (at least in the major components).





checksum said:


> Can anyone answer this for me? Considering this is my first actual model build. Can I do detail painting of the main parts before I get the lighting kit? Or do I have to wait to get the kit, then assemble the sub-assemblies and then feed the lighting kit parts thru and then put the entire model together... then paint it? Or can I temporarily assemble the sub assemblies so I can do the aztecing then add the lighting kit after I get it painted?
> I really dont know what order to do it all in. I have started to paint the base coat or undercoat and am just about ready to start doing the aztecing with some Wasco iredescent color changing paints like the OP did. I just dont know if I should start assembling the sub-assemblies or wait to get the lighting kit...


----------



## CLBrown

dlogix said:


> Well, the one thing you can do in the meantime is "lightblock" the interior of the parts if you are going to drop that lighting kit in… that should keep you busy enough for now…I wouldn't worry about any detail painting it yet, until you have your build together (at least in the major components).


Yeo... light-blocking needs to be done to the unassembled parts.

My approach is usually to apply three layers to the inside surfaces of the parts. First, black. Then, silver. Then, gloss white. This approach gives nice opacity to light, and also nice light distribution inside. Some folks only paint the inside black, but that doesn't give as good of a result in my opinion. The black blocks most of the light. The metal flakes in the silver paint block all of the rest. And the white permits the light to bounce around inside the model most effectively.

The only issue with painting prior to assembly is that you end up with a potential for leakage along seams. So, if possible, it's a good idea to put some other light block along seams... for example, adhesive metallic tape... on the inside. You can do this to one side of the assembly, and the tape will usually stick to the other part once assembled. That second part is a real pain sometimes, though... and, depending on how neatly you scrape the seams prior to assembly and how neatly you apply adhesive, it may not be necessary.


----------



## SteveR

CLBrown said:


> The only issue with painting prior to assembly is that you end up with a potential for leakage along seams.


Is it possible, or desirable, to mix black pigment with glue (epoxy?) to assist with the light blocking at the seams?


----------



## ronwojnar

How does one handle the windows with lightblocking? Do you block them off prior to lightblocking, or just paint away, and touch up after the fact. I'm concerned that the paint coverage will be uneven in the window holes. On the flip side, if I don't do enough, I'm going to have light leaks besides the one from the seams.


----------



## jgoldsack

ronwojnar said:


> How does one handle the windows with lightblocking? Do you block them off prior to lightblocking, or just paint away, and touch up after the fact. I'm concerned that the paint coverage will be uneven in the window holes. On the flip side, if I don't do enough, I'm going to have light leaks besides the one from the seams.


What i did is I made circular masks for the round windows (I had a drill bit that was the exact size, so I drilled a hole in the extra bottom that came with the kit, then used the flat end of the bit to punch tape through the holes I drilled for the masks), and then used 2 round masks and a straight piece for the longer windows.

Worked great.

And I did my interior light blocking first, before filling in any windows. I actually ended up using Hot Glue to fill my windows.. made it easy to fix mistakes, and any extra that bled out the window was simply shaved off.


----------



## SteveR

jgoldsack said:


> I actually ended up using Hot Glue to fill my windows.. made it easy to fix mistakes, and any extra that bled out the window was simply shaved off.


Genius! :thumbsup:


----------



## jgoldsack

SteveR said:


> Genius! :thumbsup:


It actually is pretty easy stuff to use to hold together many different things, as long as the glue does not need to handle any structural support.

And it has built in light distribution.


----------



## ronwojnar

jgoldsack said:


> What i did is I made circular masks for the round windows (I had a drill bit that was the exact size, so I drilled a hole in the extra bottom that came with the kit, then used the flat end of the bit to punch tape through the holes I drilled for the masks), and then used 2 round masks and a straight piece for the longer windows.
> 
> Worked great.
> 
> And I did my interior light blocking first, before filling in any windows. I actually ended up using Hot Glue to fill my windows.. made it easy to fix mistakes, and any extra that bled out the window was simply shaved off.


Did you paint the window "walls" (defined by the thickness of the part) after interior light blocking?


----------



## CLBrown

Windows are a strange thing... it depends a lot on the method you plan to use for them, really.

If you are putting in clear windows, but lighting the windows from "area" internal lighting... it's more challenging.

If you're using optical fibers, as I've usually done in the past, you just put the fibers in prior to the light-blocking... easy. You end up painting over the fibers, that's all (which only means you need to use paint which won't attack the fiber at all).

If you're using "area" lights, like I think most folks will be doing with the TOS 30"er... well... the best approach is the one which it appears R2 is using... have the windows installed from the outside, and have them go in AFTER all other painting is done. (My own approach to the 30"er is a small modification... ie, the same point in the process step, but I plan to put little glass panes into each window frame, cut from microscope slide slipcovers... just for the optical clarity so my little interior sets will be visible through them.)

If you're using a "fill approach," well... do that after all painting as well, I think. You may still need to mask the window frames, but that's a lot easier (usually just a little roll of tape stuck axially into the window opening, and then "buffed" to the outline of the window, works fine).

The key, as far as I'm concerned, is to avoid having to ever mask the inside at all. Painting (including light-block painting) before having the windows in place is probably the best approach.


----------



## Garbaron

A real pain in the rear are the Arboretum, REC deck and VIP lounge windows on the Refit. The clear parts that come with the kit are bullshit to say it nicely. The plastic is too thick and distorts your view on the inside. The REC deck ones are so bad you would not see a thing if you had an actually REC deck behind them. So you need to come up with your own solution to create them to beginn with and find a good way to mask them off later on.


----------



## TrekFX

For the VIP lounge, I found that a section cut from the upper portion of a 2-liter soda bottle has just the right curve and is very nice optically! You just need to find the section where the curves match your intended installation. It would probably work well in the other locations too.

For the record, I used a Moxie bottle...:thumbsup:

I suppose I should ask, how well does that plastic hold up over time?


----------



## Garbaron

Overhead projector transparency foil works nicely as well.


----------



## The Trekmodeler

Guys! 

My apologies for not posting everyone. I've barely been able to breathe because we're neck deep in things to do including some new kits to be put out. We are currently also working on a couple of builds including a refurbishing job for 1/350 Refit(yes, another one lol) but be sure we are still in business and taking orders. We've also had some issues with our site mail recently which look to be sorted out now. Always try our alternate aol mail in case [email protected]. 

Oh and just to let you all know ROBERT MEYER BURNETT is a deadbeat. We completed the model in this thread a couple of years ago and he did not pay for it. So I guess he got his FREE ENTERPRISE sequal after all. We will NEVER do business with the likes of him ever again!


----------



## Opus Penguin

Great to hear from you!! Glad to hear you are busy!! I hope to do business with you soon on a light kit but am focused on getting ready for TOS E first so I can get ready for the refit.


----------



## Tiberious

Thanks for posting! I'll shoot you another email down the road. Unfortunately my current job is now winding down so there's no way my wife would let me buy one of your awesome kits 'til I have another one...and in this economy that could take a while! Also thanks for sharing on the deadbeat, those guys ruin it for all the honest folks out there that you might otherwise be able to work with. Glad you've got lots of business!! Hang in there!

Tib


----------



## CLBrown

The Trekmodeler said:


> Guys!
> 
> My apologies for not posting everyone. I've barely been able to breathe because we're neck deep in things to do including some new kits to be put out. We are currently also working on a couple of builds including a refurbishing job for 1/350 Refit(yes, another one lol) but be sure we are still in business and taking orders. We've also had some issues with our site mail recently which look to be sorted out now. Always try our alternate aol mail in case [email protected].
> 
> Oh and just to let you all know ROBERT MEYER BURNETT is a deadbeat. We completed the model in this thread a couple of years ago and he did not pay for it. So I guess he got his FREE ENTERPRISE sequal after all. We will NEVER do business with the likes of him ever again!


Did you send it to him before receiving payment? Or is that gorgeous model sitting someplace, waiting for a proper home?


----------



## checksum

Would you like us to spam his twitter account asking why he's a deatbeat? Cause we could do that...


----------



## checksum

Does anyone have the aztec decals scanned? I wanted to use them for masking. Also is there a tutorial that would show the best way to mask for these aztec panels?


----------



## jgoldsack

checksum said:


> Does anyone have the aztec decals scanned? I wanted to use them for masking. Also is there a tutorial that would show the best way to mask for these aztec panels?


http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/cz_mask.htm


----------



## checksum

Thanks SOOO much jgoldsack. That is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Man that must have been alot of hard work for each one of those ships...


----------



## checksum

I have a question about printing on frisket like it says at trek modeler. Is the Frisket stuff printable? So far all the Frisket stuff I can find online says it wont work in a printer. But the instructions at TrekModeler says to print the design on Frisket paper. 
Can someone who has experience set me straight?


----------



## CLBrown

checksum said:


> I have a question about printing on frisket like it says at trek modeler. Is the Frisket stuff printable? So far all the Frisket stuff I can find online says it wont work in a printer. But the instructions at TrekModeler says to print the design on Frisket paper.
> Can someone who has experience set me straight?


You can print on Frisket paper, if you have a printer which can handle that sort of heavy paper. The ink will not necessarily "stick" very well, depending on the paper you have. But remember, all you're trying to do is get the basic pattern to use to cut the paper up. And it'll work just fine with that process.


----------



## checksum

I bought some Decal Paper from Testors. Its 5.5 X 8.5 Inches. Tomorrow I will get some of the frisket paper. I got a little scared when a bunch of places said you cannot print on frisket.


----------



## checksum

I got some of that Frisket stuff. Printed out the main Saucer section design and have NO idea how to cut out the shapes I will need without smudging it at the slightest touch. Its been about 5-6 hours and its not even close to dry. Is there something I could do to lock the ink even a little bit? Like spraying it with hairspray or 3m spray adhesive?


----------



## TrekFX

I hear "printer" and I think "laser printer...."

I can do mylar, but frisket?


----------



## SteveR

checksum said:


> Like spraying it with hairspray or 3m spray adhesive?


"Fixative", you mean.  Glosscote or dullcote should do, no?


----------



## CLBrown

The stuff WILL dry, over time. The drying time depends on what type of printer (or rather, printer ink) you're using, on the atmospheric conditions, and so forth.

The stuff I buy has a "matte paper" finish on top, not a gloss, coated finish. And I've had no troubles.

I'm using an HP printer, with the 45 and 78 ink cartridges.

I often have issues with printing on super-glossy photo paper, where I have to leave my printed stuff out overnight to fully dry (and thus not smudge). But I've never had issues with frisket.

(FYI, I print my own DVD labels on that super-glossy, heavy-duty paper. I then have to cut them to shape/size, and insert them into the cases. I usually wait 24-hrs, just for safety, though normally "overnight" proves to be sufficient.)

By the way, THIS is the paper I use... it's a lot better than what you're likely finding at, say, Michaels... which is usually something like THIS.

ALWAYS go with the "Matte finish" frisket, by the way... never with the "gloss."


----------



## checksum

Well, its been 7 weeks since I ordered my lighting kit from TrekModeler. One more week to go according to his site and it will be the full 8 weeks...


----------



## Opus Penguin

Is he keeping good communication, meaning is he replying?


----------



## checksum

I havent emailed him since I placed the order. I waited about a week and then emailed him about an estimated time frame for my lighting kit. He replied in a standard 6-8 week thing and mentioned that each kit is made to order after an order is placed like I did. 
I figured I'd give him the full 8 weeks. So Im hoping I hear something from him soon.


----------



## Trekkriffic

A good tool for making masks for those tiny round windows are nail sets. Just place your masking tape onto a vinyl cutting mat and press the tip of the nail set down onto the tape and twist it back and forth until it cuts thru the tape. It works really well for me.


----------



## SteveR

I made a bunch in Adobe Illustrator then gave the file to a sign-making shop to cut out of self-adhesive vinyl. This worked well for the oval windows.


----------



## johoel33

Checksum, I ordered my kit almost 8 weeks ago also. I just received an Email from Trek Modeler stating that he had a rash of orders and was waiting for some parts to come in. No time frame but he is keeping in touch with me. Trust you have been informed also. --- Joel


----------



## checksum

Yep,
I decided to email him a day or 2 ago and he just emailed me today saying the same thing. No mention of "when" he expected to be done with my kit tho. So I emailed him back and asked for an actual time frame.
Not that big of a deal as Im still painting the details on my kit. But I just dont want it to turn into one of those things where they say they shipped it and then I have to file a non-received item dispute with my credit card and they try and say its been 3 months I should have filed before the time limit was up...


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## johoel33

I hear you. So far he has shipped me the items I have ordered. I think it will be alright. I am working on 2 refits. One for me and one for my sister. Just about through with the first light blocking on both. Have one shuttle bay completed. Will start the DYI electronics for the first one. When I get the full-built kit from him, I'll drop it in the 2nd kit. Lots of work ahead.

Joel


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## checksum

johoel33,
Did you get your lighting kit yet? Just wondering. I still havent gotten mine. Coming up on 10 weeks...


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## johoel33

No. Not Yet. I don't expect it till the end of Oct or maybe sometime in November. We will see. In the mean time I have about 60% of the DIY kit done on my 1st Enterprise Refit. Had to to rig up the fader circuit from scratch. Will get it wired in sometime this week. Later.

__Joel


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## Opus Penguin

I hope this goes well. I am looking at eventually getting a light kit from him.


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## johoel33

Good News!_ I just received my Light Kit from Trek Modeler_. Ordered on 17 July. Received 9 Oct. Every thing looks good. On top of that, I am wiring the engineering hull and will install the Shuttle Bay for the 1st ship. I am using the DIY Light kit from Tek Modeler.

Later --J


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## checksum

I too received my lighting kit from TrekModeler today. It took just under 4 months. I havent had too much time to look at it but what I have seen looks good. Ill post with a little more info after I have had more time to examine it...


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## Nova Designs

Great to hear you guys are getting your stuff and are happy with it!


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## johoel33

Thanks Nova. Yes very happy with Trek Modeler and the Lighting Kit so far. Later

____J


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## johoel33

Great news! I applied power to the Trek Modeler Lighting Kit and it all checks out OK. 
Later

___J


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## Opus Penguin

Good news. I hope to get one when I am ready to tackle that kit.


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## johoel33

The Trek Modeler Kit will definitely make things go a lot faster. I am currently finishing my 1st PL Enterprise and am using the DIY kit. Works great but requires a lot more work than the finished kit.

I would show pics but my camera is on the blitz. Working on getting it fixed. Later.

___J


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## checksum

johoel33,
I havent had much time to look at my lighting kit. But do you have any idea about that card that says...
This system requires
Transformer
9v ac dc Max
1.2A or 1200mA Min.
Postitive Center
Plug or Tip size: 5.5mm O.D.
2.1mm I.D

Does that mean I need to get my own transformer for it plus a 9v battery?


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## MartinHatfield

No, you just need to buy an adapter that follows those parameters. The TM kit comes pre-wired for electricity including the female socket for the 9V adapter that they recommend.


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## johoel33

Cecksum, you need to order your own Transformer with those specs. The Kit does come with the 9V female socket which you can plug the Transformer into as MartenHatfield has stated. Thanks Martin. Later.

____J


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## checksum

OK,
Cause I will be honest I havent had the time to try and hook it up or even look at it aside from glancing at the parts...
Thanks


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## CSI32005

Any word on the paint instruction booklet yet?


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## eagledocf15

*Booklet*



CSI32005 said:


> Any word on the paint instruction booklet yet?


A booklet on painting and building would be great! Trekmodeler does a fantastic job!


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## Yojimbo007

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I've checked with my retailers and will be sending special sheets out to upgrade their inventories so any new orders will be filled with version 3. I'm mulling the idea of offering just the new bits on a separate sheet, for resale- but that would depend on the demand, so if you want it, ask your online shop to stock it
> 
> see ya at the show!


Hello Lou.... Are you referring to aztec dummy templates v3 or your templates are different ?
Thank you


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## checksum

Maybe anyone can answer this for me. But how does one do the super fine red lines on the edge of the saucer where the yellowish triangles are? They cant be taped off and painted can they? That would take super-human precision. But on the other hand. They cant be painted with a brush either can they? Unless you use a brush with one hair.


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## Garbaron

Decals? Like the ones that come with the model? 
And am really just guessing. 

Seriousely: there are decals provided for those marking.


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## 67657

Use a red .05 Micron pen, sold at Michaels or Hobby lobby.


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## Yojimbo007

I checked my kit's decal sheet ... There are decals for those thin red lines.


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## johoel33

Have not heard anything about the Aztek Painting Manual Yet.

______J


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## Yojimbo007

Does any one know if the templates Lou Dalmaso is referring to are the aztec dummy templates or he manufactures a different set ?
Thanx


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## Garbaron

Yoji, Lous post you quoted is almost 2 years old!
I really cant tell you. 

Just get the AztecDummy Templates V3 (current version)! 
They work very well for the saucer and forward secondary hull. 
For the A you can use his strongback. If you like the patterns he
created for the secondary hull use them too. Those are not that good
if you want to do a TMP Refit however.


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## Paulbo

Yojimbo007 said:


> Does any one know if the templates Lou Dalmaso is referring to are the aztec dummy templates or he manufactures a different set ?
> Thanx


Lou Dalmaso = Aztek Dummies


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## StarshipClass

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=111120&d=1277225527

Really gorgeous work, there! Looks like the "real" thing! :thumbsup:


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## Yojimbo007

Thanks ParaG and Garbron....


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## eagledocf15

*Which Hobbytalk thread was that from?*



PerfesserCoffee said:


> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=111120&d=1277225527
> 
> Really gorgeous work, there! Looks like the "real" thing! :thumbsup:


Which Hobbytalk thread was that from? Thank you


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## Garbaron

Its TrekModelers TMP Refit from this very thread. 
He changed satturation, brightness and contrast for that particular picture 
to get more of an authentic TMP movie look.


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## checksum

I bought the aztec dummy vinyl masks and tried them on the under side of the saucer. I made 2 mistakes that I think most people could learn from.
First mistake was that I just straight applied them without applying them to the skin on my hand or on something else first. Needless to say when it came time to take them off they were REALLY stuck on. I tried using a exacto knife and tweezers and also a sharp needle and tweezers and thought I was doing fine but after a little while I looked at an angle and noticed I was scratching my paint with the exacto knife. That sucked.
2nd mistake was doing the entire saucer at once. In my opinion at least, I think it would be much easier to manage 3-4 different colors if I only did one slice at a time and taped the rest off for overspray. It just got to be too much and overwhelming. 
So Im using this model as practice since I screwed it up in more ways than one. Then Im gonna use the 2nd one I bought to do a Gabe Kroener re-imagined Enterprise paint job. Basically painting it silver/aluminum to look like the NX-01.


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## dtssyst

checksum said:


> I bought the aztec dummy vinyl masks and tried them on the under side of the saucer. I made 2 mistakes that I think most people could learn from.
> First mistake was that I just straight applied them without applying them to the skin on my hand or on something else first. Needless to say when it came time to take them off they were REALLY stuck on. I tried using a exacto knife and tweezers and also a sharp needle and tweezers and thought I was doing fine but after a little while I looked at an angle and noticed I was scratching my paint with the exacto knife. That sucked.
> 2nd mistake was doing the entire saucer at once. In my opinion at least, I think it would be much easier to manage 3-4 different colors if I only did one slice at a time and taped the rest off for overspray. It just got to be too much and overwhelming.
> So Im using this model as practice since I screwed it up in more ways than one. Then Im gonna use the 2nd one I bought to do a Gabe Kroener re-imagined Enterprise paint job. Basically painting it silver/aluminum to look like the NX-01.


Thanks for the tips. :thumbsup:


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## Garbaron

I can confirm that you should lower the stickiness of the AztecDummy templates by applying to your hand first. Those things really stick! I nearly ruing part of my forward secondary hull Aztec because I forgot about that. As for doing the saucer in sections, might be a good idea since you'll need several passes with the AB in one go and thus sections will get more color than they should. Will see about that when I get there, right now I am dealing with the complex Pylon Aztec.


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