# Questions About Resin Bodies



## A/GS (Jul 10, 2014)

I know next to nothing about resin bodies; other than the fact they offer a good variety of car choices injection molded doesn't offer. I see very few of the resin bodies molded in color; with the vast majority only available in white, or off white. Why is this the case, I'm a terrible painter but wouldn't have any problems if I could stick to just the detail parts ? Why are so many resin bodies available with solid black windows, can't clear, or tinted resin windows be made ? Further, why have separate black windows at all; couldn't you just mold the windows into the body and paint them black instead ? That way the body would be stronger as well. Do resin bodies not have any flexibility ? Is this why body clips have to be used to attach them to the 4 gear chassis; otherwise why don't they mold the tabs on so they can snap onto the chassis ? :wave:


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Adding a coloring agent into the resin is an option for casters. It's just an added expense for the guy doing the casting. I've also read that adding color can make the body a little weaker. Not saying that it's true.. Just what I've read.

"Glass" is a problem for most casters. For the most part, clear is very difficult (and in most cases hazardous) to cast. For optimal results, the caster will need breathing apparatus, a pressure pot to reduce bubbles, and I've also read that a special grade of silicone is needed for optimal results. Using regular silicone will work, but the glass will have a hazy look to it. Molding the glass in black eliminates those issues for the most part.

Molding the glass in with the body is an option, but many buyers would prefer the glass as a separate piece, with black being the best option. Painting the glass on a body when it's molded in is not as easy as it sounds. It's very difficult to get the paint to lay down smooth without brush lines. I've read a few drops of paint reducer will help it lay down smoother but have yet to try it. Taping it off and spraying it with an airbrush isn't an easy task either...

As far as molding the mounting clips into the body, it can be done, but will likely damage the mold parts (especially the inside) a lot quicker. Getting 40 bodies out of a mold before it needs to be replaced is way better than getting 5. Silicone costs $$$$.

Basically, it all revolves around the guy doing the casting, what he feels would be the best approach to the project, what will be durable, yield the best results, and is in his financial and physical capabilities.


----------



## A/GS (Jul 10, 2014)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Adding a coloring agent into the resin is an option for casters. It's just an added expense for the guy doing the casting. I've also read that adding color can make the body a little weaker. Not saying that it's true.. Just what I've read.
> 
> "Glass" is a problem for most casters. For the most part, clear is very difficult (and in most cases hazardous) to cast. For optimal results, the caster will need breathing apparatus, a pressure pot to reduce bubbles, and I've also read that a special grade of silicone is needed for optimal results. Using regular silicone will work, but the glass will have a hazy look to it. Molding the glass in black eliminates those issues for the most part.
> 
> ...


Thanks slotcarman12078, all excellent answers; now I know why resin bodies are made the way they are. It all makes perfect sense to me now. :thumbsup:


----------



## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

When you guys talk about body clips, what do you mean?

I've actually just ordered some starter supplies for resin casting, and was wondering what the options are for "reliably" mounting a resin body on a magnatraction chassis.


----------



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

see past hill top racing posts for optional add in AFX/MagnaTraction/X-traction type body mounts.
making clear resin windows is time consuming and difficult. unless one uses pressure and/or vacuum set ups, the resin will get air bubbles in it and that doesn't look real good.
so far, I cast with a smooth, very thin window and that allows easy removal or painting of the window.
a one piece body is desirable, but there are many who make various types/colors of windows as well.
some guys still do various colors, it makes the "pot" time shorter and involves more time in the mixing process.
the clear resins that make colors POP start setting very quickly.
it has been my experience that color bodies don't sell any better than plain white, off white, tan or any other "natural" resin color.
I am a hack. hopefully the quality casters will have better answers.
LOL


----------



## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Most of the time colored resin bodies do not look that great, a fussy person would want to paint them. Road Race Replicas made colored resin bodies that have a nice glossy finish and do not need to be painted. The problem for the caster is that having a variety of colors makes things complicated. What if he casts bodies in colors that do not sell. As someone pointed out the molds do not last forever, at least the caster would want to be able to sell all of the bodies that he makes. A few casters only make bodies on order for that reason.
Windows are a problem. Some makers supply vacuum formed windows for their bodies. It is easier to make vacuun formed windows for larger slot cars, for HO it is much more difficult. Most of the HO vacuum formed windows that I have seen can be best described as better than nothing. Another hitch is gluing the windows in place.


----------



## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

check out butch's resin bodies. he does the complete bodies with or without decals. we use them all the time. great work and maybe for a little more scratch he would/could do custom decals.
as for the bodies with the rear window cast still on, we like to keep the center of weight as low as we can for handling.
There, 
thats's my 2 cents for the month!!
Rich


----------



## pshoe64 (Jun 10, 2008)

As a resin caster I can answer some of the questions as it pertains to my work. I prefer to cast the body posts of mounting tabs, but have on occasion left those off to allow various chassis to be used. If I'm making a body with the standard 1.5 inch wheelbase, I may leave the mounts off, that way the buyer can used any of the chassis brands that have that wheelbase.

As for coloring the resin, I've done both colors and tan/white. Most of my customers have asked for the tan/white so they can do their own color choices. 

Clear glass, as I've discovered with my Tucker 48 project is a bear to make. It takes longer to cure and the mix requires closer measurement of the 2 parts to come out just right. If you are a little off, the clear becomes opaque or hazy. It can also "over-cure" and bond itself to the silicon mold.

Now, for my next set of molds, I'm focusing on casting separate bumpers and glass, but they will be in the same tan/white resin. At least they can be detailed separate from the body.

Personally, I prefer the mounts being molded in. I like the glass clear and the bumpers separate. But if there's a really good body out there to be done, creating those separate pieces take a good deal longer and of course casting failure rate goes up with more parts being involved.

I do like seeing what others are doing in their casting efforts. Good questions A/GS. 

-Paul


----------



## A/GS (Jul 10, 2014)

pshoe64 said:


> As a resin caster I can answer some of the questions as it pertains to my work. I prefer to cast the body posts of mounting tabs, but have on occasion left those off to allow various chassis to be used. If I'm making a body with the standard 1.5 inch wheelbase, I may leave the mounts off, that way the buyer can used any of the chassis brands that have that wheelbase.
> 
> As for coloring the resin, I've done both colors and tan/white. Most of my customers have asked for the tan/white so they can do their own color choices.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info Paul, I saw your post on the Tucker project; the casting work you do is simply amazing. As good if not better than RRR. I believe it mentioned an upcoming project would be the Sanford & Son pickup complete w/ detailed rubbish load. I would sure like to get in on those; or any other castings you may have planned in the future. :thumbsup:


----------



## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

for those wishing clear glass,
carefully remove the cast portion that you want clear (or maybe even tinted) and use clear packing vacuum formed plastic from any/many products.
curves can be found on many of the packages and some folk even like to use various colored soda(pop) bottles.
use your imagination. the possibilities are endless.
this will also achieve a lowered gravity weight.


----------

