# WIP - The Moebius 1:24 Robot B9 in a diorama (with lighting)



## Fernando Mureb

Hi everyone!

This thread is, in some way, a continuation of my other one thread on this same subject. 

"_Last Week_" as some of you may recall, I was almost finishing the Moebius 1:24 Robot B9, when, inadvertently, I shorted some contacts in my lighting circuit board and toasted all the leds inside the Robot. 

As the disassembling of the kit would destroy it, I bought another one decided to do all the job again, preserving the old Robot to join to the Family Robinson figures in my Moebius J2 kit (in a future over the horizon).

This time, with much more experience, not only from the other robot build, but from some others kits as well, I decided to improve the diorama I'm gonna use to hide the electronics required to lighting the kit.

The sketch bellow should give you an idea of what I have in mind. It's easy to see that the diorama itself will be more complicated to built than the robot.

I don't plan to use a sound kit like the one from Starling Tech for now, because of the price ($85.00 - more than four times the cost of the kit) and since I must have to buy one (oh yeah!) for my future Moebius 1:16 Robot B9, so...

I am already working out on a Orion kit and I plan to do both kits at the same time, once the construction of a kit can serve as relief from the other one.

This is the sketch. I apologize for my poor skills as a draftsman.


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## Fernando Mureb

Let's go!

I'll use two CD covers, to build the diorama's upper side (the floor). It will be about 10cm high from the base and below it will be all electronics of the diorama, with the exception of the battery, as shown in the sketch.

The cut that are seen on the plates is for engagement of the entrance ramp. It is 4cm wide, which is enough for the robot. The floor will be surrounded with a body guard made ​​with evergreen round rods.



I'll glue them like a sandwich. The colorless plate will be on top.



The edges will be covered with evergreen .312 in channel.



I put my other robot onto the plates to give you a better idea on what I have in mind.



Preparing a mask. I'm gonna paint silver the parts outside the inner circle, bellow the colorless plate.



This will cover the ramp.


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## DCH10664

Really enjoyed your other B9 build. And from the sketches I see, you seem to be planning improvements. Can't wait to see your progress !!


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## Fernando Mureb

The main issue of the other building was the lack of room inside the console that housed the electronics and the battery. 

This made for a lot of difficulty to assemble the circuit board, which was the main cause of the short circuit that toasted all the LEDs in the very end of the build.

This time I wanted to make sure I have enough space to work comfortably at the same time I could build a better diorama.


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## Spockr

Looks like another winning build Fernando. I have one of those robots (1:24) and this may help inspire me to finally put mine together. 

Regards,
Matt


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Spockr, I hope so.

I intend to use FO to the two chest lenses of the robot, one red (flashing) LED into the chest, one into the front panel and FO to the programing unit below the front panel.

This time, the console will be more like those in front of the Time Tunnel, you know. I have some Paul's photoetch pannels that will be also lit.

Both, the console and robot will be fixed on the floor and the wires and FO will be running under the floor and entering inside the hardware from below.

Finally the floor of the diorama itself will be internally iluminated.

A lot of light, uh?! Just in Mr Irwin Allen way, eh, eh. 

If i only don't fry everything again... :freak:


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## Fernando Mureb

The two halves of the diorama's floor with holes through which wires will pass to the console and robot.







This is the ramp.


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## Fernando Mureb

Preparing to paint the inner parte of the superior half of the floor with Tamiya Mica Silver





Done.



Preparing to paint the ramp. The ramp itself will be "Irwin Allen orange" and the non-slip floor will be aluminum.


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## Fernando Mureb

The console panels will be made with transparent plastic, where will be placed the controls pannels (Paragrafix photoetch). The three square plastics are test models serving as guides for cutting the CD cover.


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## Spockr

Just happened to tune into "Ferndando's Modeling Madness"... Really glad your are posting these and hope they'll keep delivering all these interesting ideas!

Regards,
Matt


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## Fernando Mureb

LOL!! :lol:

And here you see what I have in mind...



I know I'm gonna regret myself, but I'm gonna do it anyway. :roll:


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## teslabe

I just love seeing your mind at work Fernando.......:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Greetings my friend! I was missing you! It is as we say here: "Who is alive always appears!" 

...and thanks for the kind words. :thumbsup:


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## harristotle

Great work so far, can't wait to see the finished product. It's cool to see what you've come up with to build everything.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Harristotle!

The unique rule in this hobby is having fun, isn't it? :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Painted.



Gluing the halves.



Panels of the control console.



Control console being assembled.


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## Fernando Mureb

I cut several pieces of channel styrene strip to cover the sides of the floor, giving a finish to the base.



This is the ramp with non-slip floor painted and glued.



Gluing normal and angle strips to give a finishing to the edges of the ramp. 
Beside, the control console waiting to receive putty and then to be sanded.



Practically finished.



Our mechanic friend doing a test drive.


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## Fernando Mureb

The project so far.


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## Paulbo

Nice. Great job on the console - you nailed the 60s era design.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Paul! 

I hope I can make justice to your PE kits I am using in this project.


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## kdaracal

Watching the awesomeness happen.....


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Kdaracal. :thumbsup:

The images below show the project so far. The base's floor and its ramp are almost done (my styrene strip channels have finished, so I couldn't finish the edges of the floor.


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## Fernando Mureb

This is the control panel of the console with the "electronic equipment". I made the panel with transparent plastic and sanded it. I'll glue the phortoetch pieces with Kristal Clear and then I'll paint behind the panel with a layer of "Irwin Allen green" followed by a layer of steel, in order to sealing the passage of light between the instruments.

Before that, I need to gently sand the edges of photoetch pieces to remove paint burrs.

The colors of the various lights and lit buttons will be painted both in front and behind the panel so as to ensure a strong coloration when it is lit and, at the same time, shall provide a better appearance when viewed in dayligh.At least four of them will flash, with light provided by FO.

Few of the knobs and not-lit buttons will be painted red, white or aluminum.



This is the console viewed from the side, with a "cushion" protruded from the panel to give it a Jupiter 2 look. I painted the console with Testor MM Modern Desert Sand and "cushion" with Tamiya Deck Tan.



I'm already working on the battery case that will represent a power generator in the diorama (very appropriately, doesn't it?).


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## kdaracal

I like the choice of "Irwin Allen Orange" paint color for the ramp trim. I also like the use of common items for scratch work. I once saw miniaturesun turn a used up ink jet cartridge into equipment for the flying sub.


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## Fernando Mureb

I remember that. The guy is a genius.


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## Fernando Mureb

Three steps of the control panel building. I still have to do the raised fins between the three parts of the panel and around it.

  

After priming, putying and sanding the base...



... I covered the interior with adhesive aluminum foil and masked the borders of the base with Tamiya tape, because I will glue strips of styrene painted silver to give a finish similar to the ramp.

The base will be painted "I.A. Orange".


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## kdaracal

Hmmmmm......very nice!


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## kdaracal

I almost feel guilty when using Paul's PE "off label". I scratched some equipment for my Moe Chariot and Paul caught me! But he liked it anyhow!


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## Fernando Mureb

Paul's "Classic 60s/70s/80s Control Panels" photoetched set is a must have for those who want to improve the internal appearance of spaceships in 1:32/1:35 scale.

I am planning to buy another moebius J2 just to built a crash site with a complete lower deck in scale with the upper deck (no hull constraints) and, therefore, Paul's set will be essential.

I can't miss the reissue of the J2. :wave:


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## Paulbo

Looking fantastic!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Paul!

My initial idea was not painting the frontal side of the panel but the plastic thickness proved to be inappropriate to the task, because it allow the light diffusing inside the blade like as it was acrylic or FO, you know. 

So, I had to paint the front of the panel and had problems with the paint going below the controls (those on the right), due capillary effect (I guess I didn't applied enough kristal klear).

But, I am managing to deal with all those issues.


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## Fernando Mureb

Base painted.







For those that don't know my older robot built, the guy on the the platform is the robot I assembled 2 month ago, with its battery case (control console) attached.

The front panel of the new console is not assembled yet. I have to make all the inside electronics before.


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## Paulbo

Great colors!


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## DCH10664

I was following your last B9 build, and thought it was great ! But you are really going over the top this time ! This is absolutely fantastic !!! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks guys! This kind of build, I mean, building from scratch something not pre-existent, is a lot of fun exactly because the fact that you are totally free, with no rules to follow, except to keep the scales. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

I glued four pins on the bottom of the platform in order to keep it stable and firmly attached to the base. Two of these pins have magnets which correspond to others in two pins glued to the inside of the base.





Those are pieces to mount the "power generator".



These tubes will lead wires from the "generator" to the base.



Here is the base with the switch in place. The tube you see to the right is just a garnish.

 

Two pictures of the control console with the panel completed, although not yet snapped into place.


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## Fernando Mureb

The diorama so far (please, note that the robot belongs to my other project).


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## Fernando Mureb

I spent a lot of time to get to this point. Now I'm gonna mount the new robot and, along with it, prepare the electronics of illumination.

I think I'll spare you guys the details of the assembly of the robot, since I've dealt with it in detail in my other thread, ok? However, if you like pictures this will not be a problem in any way.

Maybe I'll take a few days to post here again, because I will devote some time to assembling the Orion. :wave:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Greetings my friend! I was missing you! It is as we say here: "Who is alive always appears!"
> 
> ...and thanks for the kind words. :thumbsup:


Hi Fernando, I've been here but life keeps getting in the way of some of my projects and the others that I have posted don't seem to spark much conversation...... What you've done so far 
is great, can't wait to see your next posting.....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for the compliments, my friend. I understand your position. This happens to most of us from time to time. 

You know, nowadays the electronics are one of the coolest part of the hobby for me. Two years ago, or so, it used to be the scariest part.

Thanks to your help and encouragement in the past, today I am eager to begin the next stage of this project, instead of being afraid. :wave:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks to your help and encouragement in the past, today I am eager to begin the next stage of this project, instead of being afraid. :wave:


I'm so very glad I could help in some small way......:wave: Keep posting my friend....:thumbsup:


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## DCH10664

WoW !!! This build just keeps getting better and better ! :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks! Working on the robot. Maybe I can post pictures tomorrow.


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## Fernando Mureb

This time I prefered to paint the legs before glue them together, because the paint job is easier this way. However, this method leave you with the problem of eliminate the seam lines on the laterals. When I did my first robot, I eliminated the seam lines, but it was an insane job, due to the "rubber folds".

Considering the scale of this model, I think you can pass this job with no perceptible loss of quality.





The colors of the buttons on the control panel were reforced from behind, over a layer of krystal klear. Although in this close picture one can note some minor paint flaws, its almost impossible to see them by the naked eye.


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## Fernando Mureb

*Begining to buit the body guard.*

What is the correct name in english, please: balustrade, body guard, or what else?


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## Fernando Mureb

Do you know what is this?



A water sprinkler filter. I kept it with me when an old sprinkler went to the trash can, because the thing reminded me of something from science fiction.

So... 



What do you say? Should I use it?


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## RSN

Yes!!!


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## Richard Baker

Perfect!


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## Paulbo

Heck yes! Perfect look.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you my friends! It seems that that "garbage collector" instinct which all plastic-modeler have is still alive in me, eh, eh.


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## drewid142

THAT is a great one!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Drewid! 4 x 0 in favor of the thing. You can consider it done.

More pictures. The columns. 





I made holes in the middle of the columns...



... to pass the lower "stems".



Painted.



I bent the .050" rods with hot water.


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## starseeker

Fernando, I don't have the foggiest idea of what it is that you're building, but it sure is fun to watch! What a great project!
My only hesitation would be about using what looks like foil as a light blocker inside the Robot. That's a tiny space to fit stuff into (lights and wires) and foil is conductive. If that is foil, make sure everything else is very well insulated. So easy to short something out, trust me. 
Great stuff, sir.
PS "Railing"?


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## MadCap Romanian

Wow! This looks fantastic! I'm interested in seeing how you're going to cover the CD center tabs, as well as seeing the whole thing lighted up!


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## Fernando Mureb

starseeker said:


> Fernando, I don't have the foggiest idea of what it is that you're building, but it sure is fun to watch! What a great project!
> My only hesitation would be about using what looks like foil as a light blocker inside the Robot. That's a tiny space to fit stuff into (lights and wires) and foil is conductive. If that is foil, make sure everything else is very well insulated. So easy to short something out, trust me.
> Great stuff, sir.
> PS "Railing"?


LOL. Nor I know what is this! Maybe an alien nuclear power control being examined by our mechanical friend, In a unknown planet.

Thanks for the advice about the foil. All the electronics will be on the base. Inside the robot there will be only 3 LEDS. 

In the base, the circuit board will be mounted on a thin piece of plastic, which will be glued on the aluminum foil that also cover the entire base interior.

LOL! The railing is to protect the alien operators from accidentally fall from the base. It seems to me that this alien race is very concerned about security, you know?:lol:


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## Fernando Mureb

MadCap Romanian said:


> Wow! This looks fantastic! I'm interested in seeing how you're going to cover the CD center tabs, as well as seeing the whole thing lighted up!


Thanks budy! I've been toying with some ideas in order to avail myself of that CD design to enhance the look of the diorama in a futuristic way. We'll see.


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## teslabe

Wow Fernando, each time I look in on any of your builds, it's pure fun and amusement, great work my friend......:thumbsup::thumbsup::wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Ah, ah, thanks Teslabe!

Yes, a lot of fun here. However, I am looking forward to finish this kit and the Orion, because my next project will be the Moebius Chariot.


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## Trekkriffic

I love this sort of thing! You just know Doctor Smith is bound to show up, push the wrong button (even though the robot tells him not to), then everything will go sideways, the poor robot will get blown up, and it'll take Will Robinson 'til after the ensuing commercial break to get him put back together. 
Ahhhhhh... sweet sci-fi memories...


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## Fernando Mureb

LOL! Yes, he did it all the time.


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## Fernando Mureb

In the post #54 MadCap Romanian asked how I am going to to address the CD center tabs (floor of the base).

I said that I've been toying with some ideas... well, this is a bottle of repellent for mosquitoes. 



The base diameter is exactly the same of the central tabs that hold the CD.
I am just wonder how it would look like if I filled the cap with pieces of blue luminescent rods and put a 5mm cool white LED right below them.


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## Fernando Mureb

This is my circuit test for the complete lighting kit of the diorama and the robot.





I made a short video to show you which LEDs will be steady and which will blink randomically, but it was horrible. I'll try again later. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

General progress on the torso lighting.


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## Fernando Mureb

General progress on the diorama lighting.


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi guys.

I beg your pardon for not posting here for some while. That is because I am having difficulties to deal with two of the circuits boards which will drive the three lighiting circuits of this project.

One of them drive four flashing LEDs athaching to which there are various FO leading to the control console. Also, it will control the flashing LED into the robot torso, to light its chest.

The second board is aiming the base's floor lighting. There will be four LEDs with a very slow fade-in / fade-out flashing process.

The third board is not a problem. Just a couple of resistors to the steady LEDs into the robot, the control console and the power generator (in fact, the battery case).

I hope I am going to have a solution this week.


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## starmanmm

Nice going on this... you have some great skills and a nice collections of parts that are working well with this.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks! I think I will succeed in assemble the 3 boards this week.


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## DCH10664

I've seen a lot of dioramas done with the B9 Robot. Mostly just a platform with some sand and strange looking rocks. And I seen one with a plain platform with the B9 standing next to an astrogator. Even seen one with big Masudaya B9 using part of a PL Jupiter 2 for a stand. Slightly similar to the Franklin mint B9.

But this has to be the most unique, original, and skillfully done B9 diorama I've ever seen ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you DCH10664 for your gentle words. I hope I can meet your expectations. :thumbsup:

Although I already have succeeded on the assembling of my circuits on the breadboard, I have had some soldering problems with my circuit boards. Thats why I didn't post any pictures for while.


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## Fernando Mureb

*OK, I have pictures.*

The assembly of the robot's torso.





Preparing to paint, after puttying and sanding the seam lines.



The hole through which the wire will pass, leading to the hole on the base floor.



The assembly of the brain.





A little detail. This kit do justice to our mechanical friend.



The electronics 90% ready.


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## Fernando Mureb

This perverse girl is giving me a lot of work! I dread to show the reverse of the card. One thing I say, if I'm not the worst welder of the world, I am certainly in the second place.


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## starmanmm

Hey... if it works be happy.

I have no idea how to do a board.

I always wished WF would have a class on it.


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## Fernando Mureb

Hey Starmanmm! 

I have no idea too. What I do is to copy schematics of circuit boards that I find out around the web and which meet my necessities. 

Sometimes I borrow ideas from guys here at HT, especially Teslabe, my guru. It's just a case of mimicking those who know how.


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## Fernando Mureb

Today I finally got circuit #3 working (the one to drive the LEDs which will flash). However there is no happy end yet, because on circuit #2 (designed to make a slow fade-in / fade-out on the base floor LEDs) I had a problem with the transistor, which was suposed to be a NPN type, but wasn't (it is a PNP and I have to buy other).

I already finished the robot (painted and assembled). So, basically I still have to test circuit #2, assembly all the electronics and make a 24 hours test. After that, I have to mount the railing and that's it.


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## Spockr

Home stretch. Keep Dr Smith away while you are working on the Robot and the circuits. Looking forward to the grand finale!
:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> circuit #2 (designed to make a slow fade-in / fade-out on the base floor LEDs) I had a problem with the transistor, which was suposed to be a NPN type, but wasn't (it is a PNP and I have to buy other).


Hi Fernando, what are you driving the transistor with, is it a 555? If so you may not need a transistor, most 555 outputs (pin 3) are good for at about 200ma (approx. 10 LEDs).


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe!

Thanks for your help!

Well, as I said in post #73, I am used to copy schematics of circuit boards that I find out in the web and which meet my necessities. Although I know how transistors and IC work, I don't know (yet) how to arrange them with resistors and capacitors to produce a certain effect.

The page where I found out the schematics for this circuit is here. The guy there says that the circuit doesn't work with a PNP type of transistor and I forgot to mention that when I bought it.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> The guy there says that the circuit doesn't work with a PNP type of transistor and I forgot to mention that when I bought it.


He is correct, the circuit, as designed, can't pull the base of the transistor high enough to turn it off. Also as you can see in this schematic of your circuit, it's not just the output (pin 3) that is driving the LEDs. It's a combination of the trigger (pin 2), threshold (pin 6) and the output (pin 3) that create the effect, so, the circuit needs the NPN transistor to drive the load.....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Yes ... I could go buy the transistor downtown, but since I'm too lazy and I hate traffic jams and crazy prices that they charge here for 1 hour of parking, I prefer to buy online. It is cheaper and comfortable, but I'll have to wait about 5 days.


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## Fernando Mureb

:woohoo: Just by chance I realized that there was one NPN transistor among the ten transistors I bought. This short video on photobucket is a mere crap filmed with a crap camera, but its enough to give you guys a rough idea about the effect I am talking about.

In the image it seems that the entire blue LED bulb gets incandescent when lighted (I immediately remembered the Klingon battle cruisers being desintegrated in TMP I), but it is just a special FX of my camera.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> :woohoo: Just by chance I realized that there was one NPN transistor among the ten transistors I bought. This short video on photobucket is a mere crap filmed with a crap camera, but its enough to give you guys a rough idea about the effect I am talking about.


The effect looks great my friend, nice work......:thumbsup: This is turning out to be a very interesting and original build, can't wait to see what you do with the 1/6 B-9 when it hits the streets.....


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Teslabe. Right now, I am taking care of my other build (the Orion). My intention is having all the electronics assembled tomorrow, in order to enter a test period of 24 hours before being definitively soldered.

I plan beginning to study the Chariot in december. That will be my next build and yours will certainly be one of my most important references.

Of course my two little robots will serve as a training for the real game, the entrance to the main course of the Christmas banquet, eh, eh. :wave::wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Sometimes I think that the gods of electronics hate me.

The prototype of circuit #2 worked, as I shown in the video.

Then, I built the PCB, tested the circuit again and everything was, ok. 

Then, I soldered the LEDs, and hot glued the board inside the base.

When I energized the base, the 5 LEDs faded in and... stayed lit!!! Aaaaargh!!!
I assure you I tried everything possible to made the damn thing to work again and nothing happened.

The gods of electronics want me to do at least two versions of each circuit just for the sake of their fun.


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## Fernando Mureb

Second PCB of circuit #2 done. Second to fail. :freak:

And the prototype on my breadboard continues to work.

Well... let's go to the third try. I don't give up so easily, but you guys should be patient with my incompetence. 

Thanks.


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## Paulbo

Aarrgghh! Sorry to hear of the electronics problems.

Do you think it's a component problem or related to something with assembly to the boards?

Got my fingers crossed.


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## aurora fan

Perhaps this is the most entertaining, informative, and exciting build I've seen in a while! I look forward to your progress. Thank you for sharing your skills and hard work


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## Fernando Mureb

*I GOT IT !!!*
:woohoo:I got it:roll:
:woohoo:I got it:roll:
:woohoo:I got it:roll:
:woohoo:I got it:roll:


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## Fernando Mureb

It's 12:45, local time, Rio.

I finally got the damn PCB working since 03:15 AM, but I have waited all this time, with the circuit powered on, before give you the good news, to be sure about that.

It has faded in and out as expected since then. No fails this time.


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## Spockr

Maybe you should rename this thread:

"Fernando Conquers the World - One circuit at a time!"

Glad to hear you overcame the problems and am looking forward to seeing your work in all its lighted glory. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks SPockr, Aurora Fan and Paul!

I already have the FO instaled on the control console. Now I will put the 3 circuits to burn for 24 hs before hot glue them inside the base. I will try to make a short video of them running together.:wave:


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## starseeker

Congratulations! Air High Five!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Starseeker!!!

OK gangue. Having ended my Orion's build, I can now address this diorama more focused. The images and videos bellow make you guys testimony that all of my circuits were working by now.

This is circuit #1, destinated to control the steady LEDs into the robot and the control console and on top of the power generator as well.


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## Fernando Mureb

This is circuit #2, destinate to drive a slow fade-in, fade-out pattern of flash to the LEDs bellow the base floor (click on the images to watch the videos).


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## Fernando Mureb

This is circuit #3, destinated to drive a random pattern of flash to the LEDs that will light the robot chest and the blinking buttons on the control console (click on the image to watch the video).


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## kjames

Fernando,
Possibly a dumb question regarding your circuits, but where do you get those 2 pin connectors you are using? I'm currently wiring a bunch of LEDs in a Jupiter 2 build and I want to make things a bit modular. I took a quick look through the drawers at a local radio shack and couldn't find any mini 2 pin connectors like I see in your pictures.
Also - awesome build of our B9 friend!


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi KJames!

I bought them on eBay. Go here.


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## Fernando Mureb

Today I put the three circuits together for a test, having glued the PC boards into the base with hot glue. All the circuits are feeded by one 9V battery. 

Circuits #1 and #3 worked properly. However, circuit #2 (slow fade effect) showed a strange behavior. Sometimes it faded in and remained lit, sometimes it didn't lit and even worked properly for one hour and then went off. 

I found out that this erratic behavior doesn't happen when I power this circuit on with an exclusive battery. I suspect the circuit #3 (random flash) is causing interference in some way over the 555, or the transistor, or yet, the capacitor, I don't know.

At least an interference can be observed on the LEDs on circuit #1 (steady lights), which tremble in a way almost imperceptible.

Do someone with skils in electronics could confirm my obsevations? If it is true, is there a way to filter the interference between the circuits, or will I have to provide independent sources to the circuits?

Bellow you have a terrible video which, nevertheless, will show you clearly the mess I got myself into by my free and spontaneous will. 

Thanks.


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## Chrisisall

Keep on keepin' on there man!:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Sure I will, thanks. You know, regarding to electronics I am a mere... hmmm... modeler(?)... I just follow the instructions, eh, eh. 

I know how to solder components to a PCB, but I know almost nothing on why they have to be placed this or that way. 

Well, let it be, I have a plan B: glue a female micro connector on the base backwall to plug an external battery to power on circuit #2. Not a beautiful arrangement, but I can live with it. 

For now, I am waiting for master Teslabe's help.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Sure I will, thanks. You know, regarding to electronics I am a mere... hmmm... modeler(?)... I just follow the instructions, eh, eh.
> 
> I know how to solder components to a PCB, but I know almost nothing on why they have to be placed this or that way.
> 
> Well, let it be, I have a plan B: glue a female micro connector on the base backwall to plug an external battery to power on circuit #2. Not a beautiful arrangement, but I can live with it.
> 
> For now, I am waiting for master Teslabe's help.


Hi Fernando,
Email me the schematic of your build and I'll test it out for you
but it sounds like you might be loading down the battery. A quick test would be to run the circuit from a 9 volt DC wall wart, preferably a "Switching supply" since they are better regulated on the output. You can easily determine a Switcher from Linear by it's input range, linear will be a fixed voltage 220VAC for you, a switcher will have 100-240VAC. It should also have at least a 500ma rating. If it works, then it suggests your circuit draws more then the single battery can deliver and you're going to need two batteries or use the wall wart to power your build. Let use know what happens....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb

Super Teslabe to the rescue! 

Hi buddy, you have came very fast, thanks! :thumbsup:

I don't have a 9 volt DC wall wart at hand, so I wonder whether I could make a test using a 9V new battery. I think the 3 circuits will run properly at first and then circuit #2 will behave in that strange way?

Edit: Ah, and might I conclude that LEDs on circuit #1 should not tremble at first?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I think the 3 circuits will run properly at first and then circuit #2 will behave in that strange way?
> 
> Edit: Ah, and might I conclude that LEDs on circuit #1 should not tremble at first?


How long before the circuits start to act-up, it does sound like a loading issue.
The fading circuit count on the charge/discharge of the 100uF capacitor through the 33K resistor and it's a very analog effect, any change in the supply voltage will have a marked effect on the LEDs behavior.


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## Mitchellmania

Amazing work. When it comes to lighting a kit, I haven't a clue.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks!

I think I got the solution (or, better saying, a solution). I made a little research on the web and found out that resistors could eliminate the interference in my circuit. So, I picked up a 470 ohm one and... voilà!... it worked!! (please, don't ask me - my choice was by pure chance). 

Needless to say that there is no warranty that this is a permanent solution, especially in MY case.:freak:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I think I got the solution (or, better saying, a solution). I made a little research on the web and found out that a resistors could eliminate the interference in my circuit. So, I picked up a 470 ohm one and... voilà!... it worked!! (please, don't ask me - my choice was by pure chance).
> 
> Needless to say that there is no warranty that this is a permanent solution, especially in MY case.:freak:


Good work....:thumbsup: Where in the circuit did you put the resistor? Post the schematic if you could please.


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## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe!

I'm sorry, but I don't have a schematic. I used an idea from a guy here.

I put the resistor directly between the "+" pole of the battery and the circuit. I forgot to say that, before that, I had used a totally new battery to verify if the problem lay on weak current, but the circuit faded in and remained lit and there was no way to make it flashing.


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## Fernando Mureb

*Testing the fiber optics*

Almost there, almost there. :freak:

Ckick to watch the video.


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## Paulbo

Excellent


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## starmanmm

Yes... very cool indeed.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks guys.

I had troubles pasting the optical fiber in the "light guns". This is the first time I deal with FO and I was afraid to use super glue. Then, I applied transparent PVA glue and it took almost 24 hours to harden.

Another thing that I didn't know is that the light can enter (and be conducted) the FO lateraly, if the angle of incidence of the rays is almost paralel to the FO. I am saying that because the warm white light provided by the LEDs that light the control console from behind, greatly reduced the brightness of the colored lights from the FO, specially the thinner FO.

I am examining whether it would be possible block the interference painting the FO.


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## starmanmm

Running FO thru a sleeve will give you some protection. I have used low temp hot glue to secure FO and some have also used 2 part epoxie.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Starmanmm.

I tried to paint the FO black, but it would require several layers and the space is too narrow, for I had already glued the panel onto the console and so I have to paint through a hole bellow the console (and that is painfull).

I gave up and assembled the console on the base's floor. Now I am mounting the railing.


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## Fernando Mureb

*Final pictures - day light*


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## Fernando Mureb

This is the draft I posted in the beginning of this thread. 



Night pictures tonight, local hour. :wave:


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## Chrisisall

So cute!!!


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## Fernando Mureb

Eh, eh, eh  Thanks buddy.


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## DCH10664

Fernando, this has got to be the coolest, and most original use of this little B-9 model I have ever seen !!! You sir are more than just a modeler. You are an artist ! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Artist?! Oh! Don't say that... 

Thanks for the kind words. I tried to have fun.


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## DCH10664

Well as far as I know, there's nothing wrong with having fun while you create art ! And IMO, if you can't have fun while creating your art. Then what's the point ?
Great job ! Can't wait to see what you do when your new Moebius B-9 arrives. I do hope you will document your build. So far I've really enjoyed following all your projects.


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## Fernando Mureb

DCH10664 said:


> Well as far as I know, there's nothing wrong with having fun while you create art ! And IMO, if you can't have fun while creating your art. Then what's the point ?
> Great job ! Can't wait to see what you do when your new Moebius B-9 arrives. I do hope you will document your build. So far I've really enjoyed following all your projects.


Thanks. When I begun to follow threads here at HT in 2006, it were of great help for me those WIP-type very well detailed threads. So, I decided that I would do the same, trying to help someone else, even at the risk of being a little obvious given the high level of skills of most members here. :wave:


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## Al Loew

Great job, Fernando! I really enjoyed following this thread - you should be very proud of this project!


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## Fernando Mureb

I am! Thanks for your gentle comment, Al. :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

*Night pictures*


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## Fernando Mureb

I am having some difficulties to shoot a video with a minimum of quality. I promise I will post it soon.


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## Fernando Mureb

*I got it!!*

*OK folks, here is the video with John Williams soundtrack! 

Mission accomplished.* :wave:


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## Chrisisall

The best Christmas ornament ever!


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## Fernando Mureb

LOL! Indeed, but it demanded much more effort than my 2.3 metres Christmas tree. :tongue:


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## starmanmm

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Very cool!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks for your kindness, my friend.


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## DCH10664

Thank you for sharing this build. It's great to watch someone with your obvious skills and imagination at work. And especially when it's one of my favorite Sci-Fi characters, the B-9 Robot !


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks a lot DCH10664!

Yes, the good and old B9 is my favorite too. I built two in 1/24 scale and I will build one more for my next project, the chariot, that I am about to begin. Then, there will be the so long awaited 1/6 B9 from Moebius. :thumbsup:


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## liskorea317

Fernando Mureb said:


> *OK folks, here is the video with John Williams soundtrack!
> 
> Mission accomplished.* :wave:


Excellent work! Very creative and original!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks buddy!! :thumbsup:


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## StarshipClass

VERY cool! Great "stage" for the robot to stand on! :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall

PerfesserCoffee said:


> VERY cool! Great "stage" for the robot to stand on! :thumbsup:


"Warning: I will be here all week!"


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you guys. Me and my crazy ideas.


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## steviesteve

*Robot Diorama*

Awesome!!!


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## Fernando Mureb

Thank you! :thumbsup:


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## LIS FAN 4ever

*Amazing detail*

Grreat wooorrrkkk! 

Niiiiceeee


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## Fernando Mureb

:thumbsup::wave:


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## Zarniwoop

Thanks for posting such a great build Fernando. I am about to build a second B9 at 1/24 and was planning on adding a few led's or fibre optic cables to him. Your thread is very inspiring.


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## Fernando Mureb

Zarniwoop said:


> Thanks for posting such a great build Fernando. I am about to build a second B9 at 1/24 and was planning on adding a few led's or fibre optic cables to him. Your thread is very inspiring.


Wow! After such a long time is amazing to see that my work still can be for some help to other modelers. Thanks for your kind words. Good luck, my friend!


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