# The Proteus by Moebius Models



## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

I’ve always envied those modelers who have the skills and the patience to create the amazingly detailed kits that I’ve admired for years here on HobbyTalk. Typically, I just build models straight from the box. However, I decided that I wanted to do something more challenging. As the Proteus is the model kit that I’ve dreamed of ever since I saw the premier of “Fantastic Voyage” on the ABC Sunday Night Movie way back in 1970, I decided that if I ever “go all out” on a model, this would be the one. My goal is to take advantage of all the expertise on this site, as well as the remarkable variety of aftermarket parts available for this kit, and build a Proteus worthy of posting here on HobbyTalk. This thread will document my best efforts to accomplish this. 

Rivet counters be warned. My skills and patience are limited and I don’t want to get so caught up in the details that I get bogged down with the build, so I’ll occasionally compromise a little accuracy … especially for a bit of visual interest. 

Here's a little teaser of my progress, so far.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Research & resources*

Before I even opened the box, I did my homework by researching reference materials and by studying other modelers’ builds. Needless to say, the DVD is a great reference. Lunadude’s Proteus site (Proteus - Home), which is packed with incredible behind-the-scenes photos, proved to be another invaluable resource. 

I studied and followed the impressive builds of Carson Dyle (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-science-fiction-modeling/550994-moebius-proteus.html), Mark Meyers (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/275-moebius-models/555562-my-moebius-1-32-proteus-build-mods.html) and especially Lou Dalmaso, who built two and kindly posted his process on Youtube (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiiEox7-YK3zFuWZ3Nxi2Mw). Jeff Bond’s striking rendition of the 1/48 Proteus from Crow’s Nest is another great reference (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lazymodeler/sets/72157626737698554/). 

Trekkriffic’s exceptional build of the Spindrift (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-sc...73986-land-giants-spindrift-polar-lights.html) is an outstanding resource, too. Sure it’s a different subject, but his techniques and his thorough documentation can serve any modeler wishing to achieve Trekkriffic’s incredible results. Plus, it was his Spindrift build that gave me the inspiration to try something similar with the Proteus.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Bottom hull*

Keel – Following Carson Dyle’s example, I glued and clamped a piece of strip styrene to the keel. Once the glue cured, I sanded and shaped the keel’s profile to match that of the screen miniature. 

Side Propulsion Jets – I drilled out the side jets and replaced them with Paragrafix photo-etch. I‘ve never used photo-etch before, but installing it was much easier than I expected and was well worth the effort. I encourage anyone who has never used photoetch to check out Paragrafix. 

Bow Intake – The part that sits behind the forward grille is featureless. I enhanced it with a pair of sheet plastic inserts that were detailed with narrow plastic strip.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*The “tub”*

Rear Shelf – Lunadude’s reference photos of the aft compartment show that the top of the rear shelf, where the laser is stored, has a significant over hang. I added plastic strip to suggest this. The Crow’s Nest model captures this detail much more accurately. 

Wall Details – On a 65 inch HD TV, I repeatedly scrutinized the scene where the crew first enters the Proteus and this revealed subtle elements in the front compartment that I never realized existed. I used strip and sheet plastic, brass rod, and bits from the spare parts box along the walls of the tub to suggest, though not necessarily accurately, some of these details. 

Floor – Since I planned on opening the air lock door, the hole in the tub floor had to be enlarged to match the diameter of the bottom hatch. I used a template to trace out the new diameter and then drilled, cut and filed away the excess plastic. The transition space between the tub and bottom hull was filled in with a plastic ring, which was made from two single-serve cream containers that were glued together, reinforced with strip, sanded to size and then dropped into place.


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

This is a great thread, thanks for starting it. Love the pics, looks like you're off to a very good start. Please keep us up to date on your progress! 

This kit is on my list but between the K'tinga and the POD I don't know if I'll get to it this year.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Aft compartment*

Lab Sink Cabinet – Lunadude’s reference photos of this area show that there are actually two sinks. I created a second one by drilling and filing a rectangular hole in the counter top to match the size of the stock sink. Then I added plastic strip around the perimeter of this space to create depth and used more sheet plastic for the bottom. I made a faucet from plastic rod and a bent common pin, but haven't installed it yet. Next, I added photo-etch cabinet doors and then used the tops of common pins to replicate pull knobs. This is not screen accurate but it did add little dimensionality to the doors. I used plastic strip to extend the overhang of the counter tops and also to simulate baseboard trim moldings.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Aft Compartment*

Lab Cabinet – This part was enhanced much like the sink. Its interior was also modified with sheet plastic to accommodate lighting. 

Laboratory port wall – Compared to the modified sink and cabinets, this part now looked a little too plain. I wanted to resolve this. In the movie, scuba gear appeared to be stored in this area on a series of open shelves. Given the complex angles of this piece, I didn’t have the skills or the patience to make this part screen accurate. Instead of open shelves, I opted for locker doors made from pieces of sheet styrene, with common pin pull knobs, and lengths of fine brass rod added for hinges. To give this part a more finished look, I boxed it in with more plastic sheet.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Aft compartment*

Couch – Someone on this site speculated that a chemical toilet might have been stored in the couch and I really wanted to add this feature. Slowly and carefully, I removed the right seat cushion with an X-acto knife. To create the toilet seat, I filled this void in with a piece of sheet plastic that was modified with an oval shaped hole and supported by some plastic strip. The bowl was made from a small vinyl cap that was trimmed to fit and superglued into place. With a little sanding, the seat cushion fit snugly back into place. 

_*Just because you didn’t see it, doesn’t mean it wasn’t there. *_


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Forward compartment*

Bulkhead – I knew I wanted to light the control board on this wall, especially since the photo-etch panel had so much detail. Unfortunately, this wall is too thin to conceal any lighting. To remedy this, I used the large control box (part # 13) as a light box and by repositioning it over the space left by the removal of the vent grill and the stock instrument panel. Again, this is not screen accurate, but this minor compromise adds a lot more detail. While working on this part, I severely marred one of the molded cables. I sanded the rest of this detail away and replaced it with thin gauge wire. 

I also wanted to alter the bulkhead door so it could be made to open and close, but I wasn’t quite clear on how to approach this. I knew that car modelers often add hinges to make operating doors, hoods and trunks, so I checked out a few car sites to get some techniques. After a little research, I was able to cobble a working hinge out of thin brass tubing and fine brass wire. 

I wanted to replicate the snorkel housing, which is the angular box mounted to the top of the rear bulkhead, but I wasn’t sure how to proceed with this part because it has complex angles and there is no clear view of it in the film. Fortunately, Lou Dalmaso added this detail to his Proteus. After studying his video, I used strip and sheet plastic to whip up with something that approximates Lou’s snorkel housing. 

You can’t tell by looking at it, but it’s made from more than 20 separate pieces of plastic sheet and strip. This part looks deceivingly simple, but I found building it rather complicated and time consuming. Getting the angles of snorkel housing to sit flush with both the wall and the ceiling required a lot of sanding and lot more trial & error. It’s an interesting detail that adds a little dimensionality. Not spot on accurate, but close enough and I’m satisfied with the results.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Forward compartment*

Left & Right Walls – Instrument panel details on both side walls were removed to accommodate the photo-etch parts and holes were drilled for the lighting. Using the templates provided by Paragrafix, I scratch built the left and right wall extensions. This step was well worth the effort, especially given the added accuracy and visual interest it provided. Next, I added trim moldings using plastic strip.

Air Lock – I wanted the interior of the air lock to be visible. To do this, I held the door place and traced around it with a pencil. With a very fine bit, I made a series of closely drilled holes all the way around the inside edge of the pencil line. With little bit of thumb pressure, I popped this piece out. I smoothed away the rough edges by sanding them down. I then trimmed this opening with “L” shaped strip styrene to simulate a gasket. The air lock will be further modified with photo-etch parts.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Forward compartment*

Bow Counter Top -- I skinned this part with a thin piece of sheet plastic. I did this so I could paint it separately and then drop it into place without the need to putty, sand, or retouch the registration holes. I also glued strip plastic to the perimeter to create a raised edge. The scanner was enhanced with photo etch and detailed with bits of plastic. 

Chairs -- I wasn’t too thrilled with the forward passenger chairs and felt they needed some work to make them more accurate. In the film, the chairs had collapsible headrests and were mounted on roll-out pedestals, which allowed them to be stored under the map station. First, I used an X-acto knife to carefully remove the head rests as well as the angled support pylons. Next, I made a pair of styrene boxes for the pedestals and glued the chairs to them. I used two different diameters of metal tubing to replicate the telescoping support rods, which were then secured to the headrests and chairs with CA glue.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

*Top hull*

Bow-- In his build, Carson Dyle added a piece of plastic strip to the bow. I really liked how that looked, so I did the same by following the procedure that I used to extend the keel. 

I really couldn’t stand the idea of hiding all this detail work when I sealed up the hulls. My first inclination was to follow Lou Dalmaso’s incredibly bold innovation and remove the rear segment of the upper hull in order to expose the lab. However, my vanity got the best of me and I wanted to show as much of my work as possible, so I made upper hull almost entirely removable and I plan to secure it with magnets.

Rudder -- On my rudder, I had to remove some plastic from the last two directional louvers so that they would have pivot points and would match the look of the others. Photo etch was added to the rudder and the rear window frames.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

This is a wonderful thread you have started- many thanks!
Between your build and Fluke's I have some great references for when I start my kit


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

This is looking great. I've built two of these and I'm tempted to eventually do a cutaway version to show off the interior.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

My pleasure. This is a very decent kit. With basic modeling skills, it would make a nice build straight out of the box. However, the sheer size of the thing almost demands a little more detail be put into it. I highly recommend Paragrafix Photo-etch enhancement kit. http://(www.paragrafix.biz/product_detail.asp?PPartNum=pgx205


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

JeffBond said:


> This is looking great. I've built two of these and I'm tempted to eventually do a cutaway version to show off the interior.


Cutting into the upper hull to accomplish this was pretty time consuming and a bit nerve-wracking, too. It is a shame that a removable segment wasn't envisioned for this kit. There's a lot of nice detail that gets obscured if it is built per the instructions. 

Jeff, have you posted images of your previous Moebius Proteus builds?


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## drewid142 (Apr 23, 2004)

I love what you are doing! Finally someone backlighting the panels, adding finer details! Please remember to fix the upper outboard window curves. I was shocked they let that go out as a hard angle. I understand it was needed for their injection solution for that part... I would have suggested they make the window frames a drop in insert piece, not unlike the inner frame part.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Spectacular thread!! 

Now I also have this one as reference, beside Fluke's and all the others you have mentioned in your first post, which I had already marked as favorites.

Thank you for sharing and congratulations!


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

drewid142 said:


> I love what you are doing! Finally someone backlighting the panels, adding finer details! Please remember to fix the upper outboard window curves. I was shocked they let that go out as a hard angle. I understand it was needed for their injection solution for that part... I would have suggested they make the window frames a drop in insert piece, not unlike the inner frame part.


Thanks. I never noticed the outboard window problem before. They do look a bit off, though I'm not sure what approach I'll take to correct this. If anybody has already dealt with this issue, I'd really appreciate some insight as to how to approach it.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Spectacular thread!!
> 
> Now I also have this one as reference, beside Fluke's and all the others you have mentioned in your first post, which I had already marked as favorites.
> 
> Thank you for sharing and congratulations!


Fernando,

Thanks. 

Here's another Proteus build that I recently found. It's a great resource. It's a multi-part, in-depth account of a highly detailed build of this great kit.

Here's part 1


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Wow! Thanks again!


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

This is my first build which is sitting at Pegasus Hobbies right now--on the second one I corrected the window frames and added lighting:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lazymodeler/albums/72157675753687543


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

JeffBond said:


> This is my first build which is sitting at Pegasus Hobbies right now--on the second one I corrected the window frames and added lighting:
> 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/lazymodeler/albums/72157675753687543


Thanks for sharing. That's a great build of a great kit. What color did you use for the floor and counter tops? ... it looks great.


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

When this kit is finished does the top come off to show the interior in the back of the ship?


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Jodet said:


> When this kit is finished does the top come off to show the interior in the back of the ship?


Jodet,

If you follow the instructions, the top hull is glued to the bottom hull and is not removable. This means that only the forward compartment will be visible through the front windows and the rear lab can not be seen.

To make the rear lab visible, some modelers have cut out the rear windows: https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/32576034065/

Others have cut out the rear panel of the top hull, made it removable, and then used magnets to secure it. Scroll down about halfway: https://culttvman.com/main/earl-atkins-fantastic-voyage-proteus/

I am building this model so almost the entire top hull will be removable.


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

pob63 - thanks, that's very helpful.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

You made a chemical toilet. Nice touch!

One question though, where does the TP roll go?


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Trekkriffic said:


> You made a chemical toilet. Nice touch!
> 
> One question though, where does the TP roll go?


Trekkriffic,

Toilet paper ... I didn't even think about that until now, but I'm on it. 

Sure, I may have overlooked the TP roll, but at least the Proteus crew has a toilet, unlike the unfortunate passengers and crew of a certain sub-orbital transport.:wink2:

BTW ... it was your incredible and superbly detailed Spindrift build that inspired me to try something like that with the Proteus.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Do they have hangers in space?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Funny, I can see the Simpsons doing a FV parody...

Bart: Holy crap Homer! The toilet is overflowing!
Homer: No problem. We'll just dump it into the bloodstream.

Homer pulls a lever...


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

"To go where no man has gone before..."


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Richard Baker said:


> "To go where no man has gone before..."


What is "Where have all the good women gone?"


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Speaking of women and toilets...

Homer: Well Marge what do you think of the our chemical toilet? 
Marge: It's very nice Homer, but the French Proteus comes with a bidet.
Bart to Homer: Moms can be sooooooo picky.
Bart: Yeah. Don't even get her started about shrinkage.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Trekkriffic said:


> You made a chemical toilet. Nice touch!
> 
> One question though, where does the TP roll go?


It goes right here. It was made by cutting a square hole in the kit part and then cutting a piece of tubing to length. Through the center of the tube, I inserted a small length of brass rod, which sits in a gouged out notch and is held in place by some scrap plastic. It spins, too.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

You're really on a "roll" now!


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Trekkriffic said:


> You're really on a "roll" now!


This thread has officially gone down the drain.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

With just about all modifications to interior parts complete, I’ve begun the wiring and lighting phase of this build. 

Here's my take on the map console ... 

I modified the kit part by drilling and filing out holes for the map tubes. (I think that I might use a soda straw, cut in to segments, to represent the charts.) 

Next, I cut a rectangular section out of the light table and skinned it over with a thin piece of styrene. It's lit by two leds and one smd.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

.... and the rear bulkhead light, which is clearly inspired by jimkirk's take on this feature but definitely not as pretty as his.

I made this by sanding a clear round rod down to a half-round rod, which I mounted to a small rectangular piece of clear sheet. 

The sides and of lamp housing were made with thin plastic strip, while the end caps were bits of scrap sanded to semi-circles. The light cage was created using very thin strips of foil tape. 

I cut and filed a hole in the rear bulkhead to accommodate the lamp and re-positioned one of the "control boxes" to act as a light box. It's light by a small warm white smd.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

pob63 said:


> .... and the rear bulkhead light, which is clearly inspired by jimkirk's take on this feature but definitely not as pretty as his.
> 
> I made this by sanding a clear round rod down to a half-round rod, which I mounted to a small rectangular piece of clear sheet.
> 
> ...


That light came out great. I wish I had some warm white SMD in stock when I made mine. 
Some clear yellow made it better but not quite what I was looking for. Oh well I am not remaking them.
I also put one in the lab up high where it can't be seen since it wouldn't work behind the one in the main cabin. The roof is too low on the lab side of the bulkhead.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

For the radio, I applied photo-etch to the front and then used a drop of canopy glue, tinted with Tamiya clear orange, to make the lens for the VU meter. After the inside was painted black and then silver, I installed a small smd. The back was covered with a scrap piece of sheet, and the sides were detailed with thin strip.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Ok here are a few pic of progress so far. I am really happy with the map console doors. I didn't want the single doors or just an opening. Still some work to do in the lab.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Some lower forward details and hatch.
I put rivets on and still need paint on the square panels.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Raised headrests on chairs ... chairs on pedestals ... extended walls ... snorkel housing ... double sink ... _bulkhead panel with rivets_ ... _*reactor crank*_!!! … FANTASTIC! You absolutely nailed it. GREAT WORK!

What paint colors and brands did you use for the floors, walls, and counter tops? Also, how do you plan to showcase all these awesome details … opening the rear windows, making the rear hull wall detachable, or making a removable upper hull?


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

pob63 said:


> Raised headrests on chairs ... chairs on pedestals ... extended walls ... snorkel housing ... double sink ... _bulkhead panel with rivets_ ... _*reactor crank*_!!! … FANTASTIC! You absolutely nailed it. GREAT WORK!
> 
> What paint colors and brands did you use for the floors, walls, and counter tops? Also, how do you plan to showcase all these awesome details … opening the rear windows, making the rear hull wall detachable, or making a removable upper hull?


I am sealing the hull. I opened the rear hatches and plan to add more supplemental lighting. That's why I didn't spend extra time on stuff that won't be seen once it is closed up.
I am only detailing the stuff you can see through the windows. I used mostly colors suggested but changed a few. I used Pontiac Blue for most silver parts. Light Gray for the walls,Medium Gray for panels and some boxes. I would have used different colors on some panels but didn't have a copy of the movie when I started.
I have a lot of Model Master enamels on hand,so that's what I used. I didn't like the long door for the lab wall,so I used the 1/2 door and glued it in the open position. It was open most of the movie anyway.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Fantastic work as I've come to expect with all your builds! Love the hatch among many other things. Will definitely use your build for reference when I get around to building my own Proteus.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Here's a few shots of the pilot's chair, in progress. The angular chair mount was enhanced with some plastic strip to make it a bit more robust and it is temporarily taped in place. I designed the chair to rotate by imbedding neodymium magnets in the pilot seat support (part #42) and the pilot station deck (part #56). 

In the film, the passenger chair headrests have angled sides, so I sanded them down a bit for a more accurate profile.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

I made the headrests on mine higher to match the heads of the figures I will use.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

jimkirk said:


> I made the headrests on mine higher to match the heads of the figures I will use.


Are you using the ones by Jimmy Flintstone Studios? 


DRF149 Fantastic Voyage Figurines | Jimmy Flintstone Studios


For anyone else building this kit, I bought these figures. They're a nice addition. For the scale and given the licensing issues, Flintstone Studios did a good job capturing the crews' likeness ... close enough to but not so close as to cause any legal problems. Well worth the price, in my opinion.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I very rarely put figures in my builds but with the vast Proteus greenhouse it really needs to have some figures inside- Jimmy Flintstone makes wonderful ones and is my only choice for this kit...


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Yes I am using the Flintstones figures. The pilot was a bit of a hassle lining up with the controls. Only the right arm had the controler in the hand. The other is just empty. It would have been easier if both had a controller. I tweaked the control arms a bit since the figure arms were a bit short.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Ok a few more progress pics. The lab is done except some supplemental lighting later on. I also added some details under the bow edge. There are no shots that I could find of the lower panel on the port side. I am trying to think of something different than the other 2 panels already done.


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

Man, this looks amazing! Well done!


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Thanks. Once sealed it is should look even better. I didn't mess with behind the upper door since it won't be seen through the rear windows. The door always was open on the movie,so I put it in that way.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

Excellent!


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Your mods are extremely well thought out and executed very well. I almost wish you were using an aftermarket accurizing set- it is going to take forever for me to try and do this on my kit when it hits the build table


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

jimkirk said:


> Ok a few more progress pics. The lab is done except some supplemental lighting later on. I also added some details under the bow edge. There are no shots that I could find of the lower panel on the port side. I am trying to think of something different than the other 2 panels already done.


You did an incredible job on that faucet. Amazing!


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

pob63 said:


> You did an incredible job on that faucet. Amazing!


That thing is so danm small. I used 3 sizes of round styrene rod. I used Bondene from a Touch N Flow to tack pieces together. It wasn't strong enough to hold it together,so I used epoxy to firm it up. I had to do a little piece at a time to let each part set up. I am happy with the result.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Richard Baker said:


> Your mods are extremely well thought out and executed very well. I almost wish you were using an aftermarket accurizing set- it is going to take forever for me to try and do this on my kit when it hits the build table


The crank and panels weren't too hard. A bit time consuming to get them right. For the panels I figured how big I wanted them and how wide I wanted the outer edge strip looked good. I cut the inner panel minus the outer edge strips. Getting that panel square was the critical part. I then glued the strips around the inner panel.
I used micro mark rivet decals for the rivets. I also rounded the inner edges a bit to get separation between the panels. A scribe was also used to accomplish this.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Wow no posts for a while. I decided to paint the upper hull then glue the halves together.
I will then tape off the upper hull and fill the seam and paint the bottom. I installed Randy Coopers resin gaskets and the windows after painting the hull. They were a pita but the result is worth it. I also filled in above the upper windows with strip styrene to eliminate the oversized frames in the kit part.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Ok Pob63 here pics of the backside of the gaskets.
I filled in the area above the upper windows to cover the empty spot above them.


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## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

jimkirk said:


> Wow no posts for a while. I decided to paint the upper hull then glue the halves together.
> I will then tape off the upper hull and fill the seam and paint the bottom. I installed Randy Coopers resin gaskets and the windows after painting the hull. They were a pita but the result is worth it. I also filled in above the upper windows with strip styrene to eliminate the oversized frames in the kit part.


Hi, Question; "Where" can you purchase "Styrene-Stock"???
would Hobby Lobby carry it??? & if so, "Which" Dept...???

TY :thumbsup:

Bubba (The Senile-1) 123 :willy_nilly: :smile2:


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

I forgot one without the frame.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Bubba 123 said:


> Hi, Question; "Where" can you purchase "Styrene-Stock"???
> would Hobby Lobby carry it??? & if so, "Which" Dept...???
> 
> TY :thumbsup:
> ...


Most hobby shops carry it. I usually order it online from Amazon or Ebay.
You can also order directly https://evergreenscalemodels.com or Plastruct | International Supplier of Architectural, Educational and Hobby Model Parts
Their sites are good to get dimensions of available stock also. I usually Google the size I need if I need it quicker than those sites can deliver.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

It has been my experience that a model train focused shop carries the most extensive variety of in stock items in both plastic and metal.

The manufacture sites has it all though.

:thumbsup:


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> It has been my experience that a model train focused shop carries the most extensive variety of in stock items in both plastic and metal.
> 
> The manufacture sites has it all though.
> 
> :thumbsup:


One of the sites I get rod tubing and strips is midwest model railroad.
No one site I've went to has everything I was looking for except the manufacturers.
They are a secondary choice for me because I can get it faster from other sites most of the time.


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## pob63 (Jan 2, 2008)

jimkirk said:


> Ok Pob63 here pics of the backside of the gaskets.
> I filled in the area above the upper windows to cover the empty spot above them.


That came out GREAT!! Did you use the gasket segments as cutting guides for the clear styrene?

That re-positioned ceiling valve and ring around the ceiling hatchway are nice touches.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

pob63 said:


> That came out GREAT!! Did you use the gasket segments as cutting guides for the clear styrene?
> 
> That re-positioned ceiling valve and ring around the ceiling hatchway are nice touches.


Thanks. That ring was a bit of a bitch.
I didn't have any tubing big enough so I drew a round circle and cut it out of sheet styrene.
I then sanded around it to make it smooth an fairly round. It can't be seen too much so it's acceptable.
I did use the gasket frames and a sharpie to get the basic shapes of the windows. I cut them bigger and trimmed to fit. I used .015 clear sheet and dipped them in Future a day before installing. You just have to handle the clear carefully so you don't scratch it up. I used scissors to cut them.


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## jimkirk (May 27, 2010)

I cut the window panes the same size as the whole gasket segment to help keep the glue away from edge of the gaskets as much as possible. The frame will,once glued in will keep the windows secure.


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