# 1955 Mercedes-Benz W196 "Done"



## jimkelsey (May 7, 2013)

It's 3:30 am where I live (PST) and, until I can either create or get some decals, the W196 "Streamliner" is done. I am pretty sure that this is ABS plastic. It was awfully soft and difficult to work with. So much so, that I carved the dash out of polystryene - extremely easy to work with! I tried carving the upper vents on the side, but no matter what tried (dremel bits, files, knives), it never came out clean. So...I filled it in. I will give it a test run once the paint is dry. 

Thank you all for the positive comments earlier. I have got a lot to learn when it comes to carving stuff from scratch. It certainly isn't the quality that Aurora would produce, but for a first attempt, I am pleased.


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

wow that looks great !! nice work :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Very nice carving Jim. Maintaining symmetry is always a huge challenge, especially on the curvaceous stylings. Using "milk jug" plastic makes it all the more impressive! :thumbsup: 

New generation plastics are very frustrating to work with, or re-work after the fact. Regardless of the tooling applied, it will always bite and dive into the material due to it's lack of hardness. The same plasticizers that were developed to help prevent breakage and extend product life, fight us tooth and nail when we try and work with it.


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## vickers83 (Mar 8, 2010)

WOW! I`m speechless! Awesome car! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

Looks like engineered carving to me!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup: RM


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## jimkelsey (May 7, 2013)

Thanks, guys, for taking the time to look. I just added the windshield - the photo didn't turn out too well. I also added a demonstration video on youtube. Here is the link: 



.

- Jim


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Looks great!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## jimkelsey (May 7, 2013)

*Now We Have Decals*

This is as good as it is going to get. My wife looked through her scrapbooking supplies and found a hole punch that was approximately the right size.  I had some white decal paper, so the circles were a cinch. I didn't have the correct style of numbers, so I used what I had on hand, which were military numbers. Things aren't as symmetric as I would like - and the decals brought that out. Kinda late to fix things now; however, I will know better in the future. Thanks for taking the time to look.


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Outstanding work Jim. Thanks for sharing the process. Do you have plans to do others?

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Wow, that came out gorgeous!!


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Wow, that came out gorgeous!!


What slotcarman said...GORGEOUS!!

Oh man I'm amazed at the craftsmanship you put into this build. 
It looks great and you built it from scratch!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Bob...WOW is right!!...zilla


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## TeamMadMarsupial (Dec 23, 2012)

Looks great, I think we can give you a "Master Carver" title. No further testing required, an A+ on this build!


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

WOW- that's AWESOME ! :thumbsup: Looks Done to my eyes, be proud of your Build, it's an Original Prototype


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## WesJY (Mar 4, 2004)

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Wes


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## jimkelsey (May 7, 2013)

Michael:

As far as other projects go, the Ford P68 was created on a whim - to see if I could carve a car with windows out of the clear acrylic and make it work with the Speed Steer chassis. By using the clear acrylic, I don't have to worry about carving out window posts. 

Having successfully made it work, I now would like to try making some rigs that I grew up with: a 1977 Ford F100, a 1980 Ford Bronco, and a 1973 Ford Pinto wagon. The challenge will be trying to make the grill and paneling. I am not sure how to accomplish those issues yet. 

I really like old cars - I mean old - pre 1930. Cars with fenders and running boards, which are not easy to adapt to the Speed Steer chassis. I have in mind to make a Marmon Wasp, a 1927 Ford Model T Tudor, a 1929 Packard...
I may pick up a few narrow Tyco chassis, as they do not have the tabs that stick out from the center, and see what I can make work with them. From past experience, the chassis take a bit of adapting to work successfully with the slotless AFX track.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

For the really fine work, I use end mill bits. They are available in sizes down to .007 diameter. Watch the shank length, as some are too long and are totally unmanageable in a dremel. For detail work like that, I highly suggest using a flex shaft extension (if you have one already, you'll know why). The finer the bit, the more likely they are to break, and under .030 is fairly brittle. I've broke more than my share doing my light ups, but sometimes I have to go that small to get the tail light holes right. All my milling is done by hand, and I sorely miss doing it, but I still haven't gotten past my arm problems yet. The ultra cold weather we've been having is only making the problem worse. 

It helps to do a little reading on the different types of milling bits, as some are more agressive than others, and some have a ball end, while some are square cut. The number of flutes are another variable to consider. These mills MUST be run on the slowest speed possible for two reasons. First, too high a speed generates heat and will melt the plastic onto the bit. Second, they will be way too aggressive and very hard to control. Do a search on the bay. The cheapest bits are usually there, but do your homework first so you know what you want. Also, the cheapest isn't always a bargain... I got some dirt cheap and broke almost half of my .010 bits in a week. A good one if you're careful can last months or even years...


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## Jisp (Oct 19, 2008)

Thanks Jim. Somehow I overlooked the P68 thread while it was staring me in the face. After a look over some of your 1:144 work on flickr I'm starting to think you might just know a thing or two!. Just kidding mate, gorgeous work at such a difficult scale. If I'm not mistaken you are still feeling your way around adapting your rather elaborate skill set to car bodies. Once you get comfortable I think anything is possible. Looking forward to seeing it.......

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## videojimmy (Jan 12, 2006)

wow, that's incredible !


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Great work, I think the car looks fantastic, 

Also The cat is funny, he just lays down in the track not a worry in the world 

Boosted


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## jimkelsey (May 7, 2013)

Michael:

You are spot on - feeling my way around is a great way to put it. I have a LONG ways to go as far as making my rigs look like something that Tyco or Aurora have made. Mine are pretty crude in comparison. 

I have a local friend who is pro-modeler and many times wins Best of Show or 1st place in his categories for his Formula 1 cars. He has been offered thousands of dollars for his cars. He has taught me a lot about modeling in detail and scratch-building. I went to an IPMS show with a friend about three years ago in Port Townsend, WA and my planes paled in comparison to the detail work that those guys built there. I was not even in the same league. Their carving work was unbelievably detailed and realistic looking.

Thank you for taking the time to look at my flickr planes. I like 1/144 scale because I am fascinated by comparing how small a P-51 is to a B-36 or a C-5 Galaxy. Plus, they don't take up much room


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