# My solution for the Chariot rim problem...



## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

As my Chariot is coming along so nicely, I've been thinking more and more about a solution for the rim meld problem. I know it hasn't happened to everyones, but I didn't want to take a chance, and I came up with this idea to provide a buffer between the rims and tires.








I picked up some 9/16 x .014 brass tubing from the hobby shop, which fits just perfect inside diameter in the tires.








After sliding the tire on the tubing, I scribed a line around it with an old airbrush needle. 
Using the moto-tool with a diamond cutting tip (I later switched to a standard red cutting tip which actually worked better) I cut the rim out. Take your time! I first made a light "incision" all the way around my scribed line, then started to cut deeper until it went thru. This is going to get real hot! Danger Will Robinson! After it was all cut, I ran the edges smooth on my vertical sanding tower. (nicknamed "The Forehead Remover"...don't ask....)








This is what you end up with. A nice smooth tire liner. 
















Round two will have you using a sanding tip to remove the entire center area off the rims, and a little more. You have to decrease the diameter just slightly all the way around. After the first one, I figured out is works better to start grinding back about a milimeter or two from the front of the rim to leave a "lip" around it. If it isn't perfect, don't sweat it. I made the first one so snug I had to tap it on with a urethane tipped hammer. The rest have pushed right on. Just take your time and keep checking your progress. 








The result is a basically stock appearance, but with the protective barrier!
It really didn't take that long to make these and assemble either. Hope this helps you guys! 








This is what I used. 
I'll post some progress shots of my Chariot soon!


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Nice idea Tim! And it looks good too!

MMM


----------



## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

Would a strip of aluminum foil glued to the styrene rim produce the same results.Of course a brass tube covering the rim is more resistant if movement of the tracks are involved,I guess.


----------



## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

That is a great idea! Time to slip a printout in the ole Chariot box.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

could you ease the grinding time by putting the rim in a dremel and easing it down onto a sanding block?


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

I simply use a needle file to cut off K&S tubing, but they do sell tubing cutters. If you have a metal lathe, that's the easiest and best way to go- especially for facing the cut ends.


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Also, someone was asking in the previous thread(now locked) about a source of 1/24 scale rims and tires. I see that Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair, CA carries such a line(_metal_ rims!)


----------



## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Pegasus would be the best source if you need a set of "24's" to add some bling to your Chariot ride! LOL!! They do have some regular rims, but a lot of what they manufacture is current day hippity-hop styled rims. (I actually heard that that shop was closing not long ago?) I'm a car modeler and I've used some of thier rims/tire kits in the past. (like this








I've also used turned and milled stuff on many of my builds, which is a lot more work. I just felt this was a simple, easy solution. It really wasn't that much work! I painted them up last night and mounted them, and they look pretty much box stock. I'm going to do the "cogged" rear gear either with some foil or shrink tube if I have some large enough.

Lou, I had thought about that, but the way that plastic tube slides into the rim, then the axle sliding into that part, I was afraid of crushing the assembly! If it would have just mounted on the metal axle I may have tried it. I just took my time and carefully buzzed them down with the grinding tip! By the way, I still reference your Chariot all the time, it's such an outstanding build! I also just ordered the paint masks!


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Tim Nolan said:


> ...I'm going to do the "cogged" rear gear either with some foil or shrink tube if I have some large enough...


The shrink tube doesn't react with the styrene?



Lou Dalmaso said:


> could you ease the grinding time by putting the rim in a dremel and easing it down onto a sanding block?





Tim Nolan said:


> ...I had thought about that, but the way that plastic tube slides into the rim, then the axle sliding into that part, I was afraid of crushing the assembly! If it would have just mounted on the metal axle I may have tried it...


I haven't worked on my chariot kit at all. If the "axle covers"(part #30) are cemented in to the rims, do the steel axles have a tight press fit? That is, if you can chuck up the axle in your Dremel(with the rim mounted, and overhanging the chuck) for filing or sanding, wouldn't you get a truer surface to mount your tube/tire assembly to?


----------



## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

Go to www.pegasushobbies.com - click on models and the page opens up with all the Pegasus wheels and tires.
Pegasus Hobbies appears to be an active operation owned by the same folks as Pegasus Models..

Dave


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Dave Metzner said:


> ...Pegasus Hobbies appears to be an active operation owned by the same folks as Pegasus Models..


Here's their current digs:

http://www.pegasushobbies.com/newbuilding.htm

I should say that I haven't been to Pegasus Hobbies since they closed their store in uptown Whittier(many moons ago.)


----------



## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Thats probably what I heard about from Paul Burke a while back. They make some killer stuff, so I'm glad they are still offering rims/tire sets. Great stuff, and great prices too! I got the rims all painted and mounted up, and they look just fine. I went on and just mounted my cogged rear gears after several coats of primer and some Tamiya dark gunmetal paint, so we'll see what happens later on. I'll post some progress pics soon on my build.


----------



## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

Finished product......


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

Looks great! Keep an eye on the drive sprockets, and remember the tracks are the same material as the tires, so keep the model off bare plastic.


----------



## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Great job so far Tim! I'd be VERY leary of the drive sprockets too!

I almost want to suggest to wrap the drive sprockets in Bare Metal Foil or even Aluminum foil where the drive meets the vinyl just to be on the safe side.

And yes...be careful where you set the tracks down on...if it is a wooden base...great...a plastic one...not so great!

MMM


----------



## toyroy (Jul 17, 2005)

MonsterModelMan said:


> ...be careful where you set the tracks down on...if it is a wooden base...great...a plastic one...not so great!


I'd go further: if the base is wood, the tracks _may_ attack some paints or varnishes.


----------



## birsadhop (Oct 8, 2009)

Good idea.
Good post. I appreciate it
Thank you so much for the post. It's really useful.
Thanks a lot for the information


----------



## Topper (Jun 8, 2009)

I had the same problem of the treads interacting with the display base. To remedy this I cut thin balsawood strips that the treads rest on. They can't be seen and the height is negligible.


----------

