# Neo Car



## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Todd took some pic's.

This is a basic spec neo car that we race weekly.

The wing magnet combo is my buddy Lyle's doing,he spent a pile of time sorting the cars out,and i have to give him credit for the amount of time and money he spent,a couple years and a whole lot of arms he burned up getting them sorted out to where they're basically bulletproof and last a whole season with-out much maintaince.
I didn't want to go to a full tilt glue in wing mag neo car,as i had some pretty decent drop-in neo cars,but Lyle was convinced it'd make our racing series closer,and he was right,as the cars are virtually faster then the human hand,so anybody can win now:thumbsup:

Don't attempt to run something like this unless you have at least 10 amps per lane,and multiple power taps.
Our tracks all use (1) 0-30volt 10 amp Trackmate per lane,and that's a bare minium


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

LOL

I spent many years racing 6 mag unlimited cars. they are a blast!!
my track was 75' long and I got down to 2.000 seconds on it!
There is a way to follow the car and drive it the same way a person would drive a t-jet or super stock car.

I stated off with 20am PS for my track, pleny of power for 4 cars running a race. I found a well setup unlimited car draws about 1/2 amp when running.

on average i ran around a 33 wind arm plus or minus a 1/2 an ohm.

one day soon I hope to get a new arm and rear bearing to get the car back on the road


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## neorules (Oct 20, 2006)

Nice Rick-- give us the specs on the magnets-- motor size, front tractions and rear. Also what tire rubber slip-ons ya got. Thanks


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Mike this one has a 1 ohm 33 Spinner in it.

Bob the tires are usually the .442 style LL compound "B" Supertire on a 290 or bigger hub.

The mags are from K&J.
Lyle's kinda proprietary on the mags,so i'll let him pass the spec's out if he wants,i sorta figure it's his right,lol

Other then that it's a pretty standard build,Bob
Slottech brushes/.009" brush springs ,Wizz slotted bigfoot barrels,custom bent pick-up shoes, .011" pick-up springs,narrow flanged front bearing,wide flanged rear bearing,Scorpion chassis with floating guide-pin,drillblank axles,Wizz aluminium front end,either a Wizz steel pinion or an MRT steel pinion and Wizz silicone crown gears,usually in the 7/22 or 7/23 area for ratio's,depends on the driver and arm combo,but those are the most common ratio's we're using.
I run a faster arm then most with the 33 Spinners,but on average most guys are running a 1.9 or lower arm,and we run on 21 volts.
The cars are pretty bulletproof and fairly low maintaince for their cost and speed.We find the older P3 and Scorpion chassis's to last longer then a Storm chassis,and have less tendency to flex and break
I'll put some pressure on Lyle and try to get him to pass over the mag info,i do have some pull with him,lol
Rick


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## Rick Carter (Dec 2, 2008)

Hornet,

Are you the Rick from Canada or that jerk Rick from Jersey???

Lookin' good Tricky Ricky! That P3 looks like it had to cut in order to fit the motor mags in it. And yes, its a stronger chassis than the Storm. Not that the Storm is easily broken but the P has a tad bit more strength in it for that class.

Are you using BB's?


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> Are you the Rick from Canada or that jerk Rick from Jersey???


is there a difference?


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## neorules (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks for the info Rick. How many FPS are you able to get with these? How would you say they compare to Cheetah's or other unlimiteds? Also do you know the level of the mags? 48,50 52? Approximate cost for each car?


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## Dyno (Jan 26, 2009)

I want one .


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## Rick Carter (Dec 2, 2008)

ROTF Mike!!!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Yup,i got more hair,lol:wave:

The boss says out of the 2 of us,i'm the better looking one,:wave:

O-yea there's a pile of cutting and gluing involved,i think we got stock in Black Max by now,it's the main staple for building one,lol

Bob we're running mid 1.40's on 65 ft so we're in the neighbourhood of 45 ft per sec.
I'll dig at Lyle and see if he'll post the mag part numbers for you Bob.


We've never had a Cheetah up here,so honestly i don't know how it'd compare to one.

Set-up the way your looking at the car,they set us back around $130.00 with bearings,way cheaper to build then the old poly cars were.

LOL Dana you worry me,:wave:

Might have to come pick your brain in a bit on computor programs,having problems with downloading Simple Dyno onto a Windows 8 laptop.
Rick


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## neorules (Oct 20, 2006)

Rick-- I'm guessing the long mags by the motor are the1/2 in .125 x125 42 's and the tractions are stacked 5x7 mm 50's. Motor mags look to have a radius which has me wondering where they sell that small of ones at kj mag. Also no rear bearings it seems so that saves some$$. looks functional if they hold up well.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Left a message for Lyle,so hopefully he responds for you Bob.

We do have the ball bearing chassis's ,but didn't use one on this car.
Adding bearings to the axle would add another 15 to 30 bucks to the cost of the car,depending on the bearings you used,so they'd come in a little closer to a $150.00 if you went that way

So far the P3/Scorpion chassis's wearing out hasn't been a big issue ,the Storms will wear the axle holes though with their softer chassis.

Lyle has a couple cars that have well over 10,000 laps on each of them,and he was commenting that he should probably use a .0625" axle in them now,so the chassis's seem to be fairly long wearing.
A guy can go even bigger on the axles,when the 1/16" axles get sloppy:thumbsup:

That's basically our theory,yup we're cheap lol,:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Mike threw a couple Neo cars on the roller dyno's,just for curiousities sake.
I can pull well over 4 amps from them on the roller dyno's,and over 5 amps from them when i load them up on the old slave motor dyno,using a multi-meter,and a m-m is notriously slow on reading amp draws.
The slave motor dyno output is a steady state 5 amp draw with the load motor in full short mode
20 amps for 4 lanes won't be enough if you're gonna run something like these.
10 amps per lane is a bare minimium with these cars.
Rick


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## slotcar58 (Jun 21, 2007)

I have to build one of these!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,Leo you won't find a faster or cheaper car for what they are.

We wanted something as fast as the old Level 25 cars were,but cheaper using easier to get magnets,and these cars accomplish that in spades.
They're a fair bit faster then a Level 25 car,and a whole lot less money.
We started with a drop in style car using K&J magnets,and it's progressed to these little monsters:wave:

You'll probably want to race them as Crash and Burn,nobody wants to corner marshal them,they hurt when they hit ,lol:wave:.

Lyle doesn't want to share the mag info,and i won't step on his toes by spilling the beans,but everything is available through K&J and Indigo magnets.
Rick


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

time to throw some eyelets into the axle holes our use some BB


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

We prefer them with-out axle bearings Mike,they seem to take wall shots better,and so far the wear factor hasn't been a really big deal.
Weights the killer we've found,and the lighter they are, the better they'll take hard hits with-out breaking something,but that's only our findings,other guys may prefer axle bearings.
If you look close it doesn't actually carry much in the way of magnets,they're all very thin,and the stacked motor mag is a very small un-radius'd mag.

The idea was a fun fast car that was cheap to build and doesn't require much in the way of maintaince.
Other then pick-up shoes wearing out,and the odd brush adjustment,they'll run a full season with just oiling them.
We hardly ever kill a gear,once inawhile a guy will kill an arm,but even that doesn't happen very often,for our group,they're pretty well ideal.
Cheap and cost effective for the fun and speed they generate:thumbsup:

Leo if you do take a stab at building one,shoot for a .012" to .015" airgap.
Any less then .012" and you'll start cooking arms.
Rick


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## slotcar58 (Jun 21, 2007)

Rick;

Thanks for the advise on the air gap.

I have had a slower version of this in the works for a while. I call it the Group 64. I hope to build it after the race season ends next month. I want to take a Storm Extreme put an independent rotational front end on it, a Tyco 3.5 arm and either run the hard tires that come with it or a set of silicone sponge. I will also be putting a better set of gears, 7/22. Based on our experience with our club stock class, this should be a screamer! Should run $60 tops!

Leo


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,that sounds like a fun car.

At my place i run 3 differant style spec cars besides these,those are the Friday night weekly cars,my house runs a bit differant on Sundays 

One is the Mega G's i built up awhile ago.

The other 2 are Wizz Storms.

One class runs Level 19 Poly motor mags with stock arms,8/22 Slottech gearing,armature bearings,bigfoot brushes,and "no" traction mags or weights.
These cars are a blast, wickedly fast,and man you gotta be on your toes to get them through the corners,and they're "very low" maintaince cars,my favorite,lol:thumbsup:

I have a couple of these set-up as practice cars,built same as above,but using Wizzard 4.1 Econo winds,and they'll teach you the art of braking,lol

The other class of spec cars,are based on the Storm Extreme,using the stock Neo traction mags in the stock location.
I use Level 19 Poly motor mags,35 BSRT Spinner arms,arm bearings,bigfoot brushes,7/22 steel and silicone bronze gears,these cars get run lots,as they are low maintaince and relatively fast.
In most guys opinion,they're probably close to being stupid fast,but i'm twisted abit,lol
These cars will rock your boat for close to a $180 to build though,if you have to buy the motor mags,as they use factory poly motor mags,and they ain't cheap.
You might say i had a few sets of poly mags laying around from the old poly days,and this is the way i came up with to use them.

Use lots of Loctite 380/Black Max and "no" accelerator to glue the mags in place.
Plan to take at least a couple nights to build one,as you can only glue so many magnets in at one time,first set has to be fully cured before attempting to glue the other set in place.
A flat steel plate helps for gluing them in place Leo.
Clamp the base mag's to it then basically work your way up 
Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Just a heads up guys,i mention i use BSRT arms in Wizzard chassis's.
The arms i use are old stock,and are no longer available.
They're old tyco timed Spinners,and haven't been available for some time
Slottech and Wizzard are good suppliers of armatures for these cars


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

One other thing if you're attempting to build one,build it to "high downforce"


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## slotcar58 (Jun 21, 2007)

Thanks for all the helpful tips! This will save me lots of time.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

just to note, the arm should big enough that you have to drive the just like you have to drive a super stock.

I have seen unlimited cars where people just held down the trigger all the time.

I used to run 32 to 33 gauge arms with most being about 32.5.

But that is in a level 50 unlimited


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Mike has a good point.
Don't build what's called a "pin car",where you can hold the trigger wide open all the time.
That's the fastest way to cook an arm going.
It's a fine line to build them drivable.
Not so hairy you can't control the car,and not to soft,or you'll burn up armatures.
Plan to burn up a couple arms getting one sorted out.
Once you get them figured out,they're cheap to build and run,but getting them figured out can be expensive,as there's a fairly steep learning curve to the cars.

Just letting you newer guys know,you'll spend money figuring them out.
And you can't go cheap on the arm/bearings or gears etc.buy good stuff.
Don't be thinking a Green Wire style arm for 15 bucks will work,it won't,you need custom wound arms,under 2.0 ohms.
Depending on your track and power supply and driving ability,you might even need to go down around 1.0 as Mike says.
It's an expensive learning curve:wave:
Rick

One other thing i haven't mentioned is controller's,you'll want a good quality electronic controller.
When i say good quality,i don't mean a diode dropping Professor Motor style controller,these cars hate those style controllers,as they draw too many amps.
You'll want to step up farther then that on a controller.

We all use Difalco's,but there's other brands of electronic's that'll work too.
Mike can probably list a few,as he has experience with more brands then i do


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

who left making them??

DR & difalco, I think lucky bob's (wiperless).

I have not tried the 3rd eye yet.


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## smallscalebill (Sep 19, 2010)

found this chassis in a lot of wizzard cars purchased some time ago. looked similar. i have no information on it. have only bench tested it. sounds very strong on a small hobby transformer. any information would be helpful. not a magnet racer. smalls


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

looks like a nice tyco unlimited car

looks like the car was trapped in amber, kind of like the mosquito in Jurassic partk


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Somebodies put a pile of work into by the looks of it.
I'm guessing it's a Wizz green wire arm and pinion,the rest is hard to tell.
Maybe Neorules will recongnize it more.
Bob any ideas on who's handiwork it is.
Rick


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## neorules (Oct 20, 2006)

No clue who's it might be.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

it was joe.


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## smallscalebill (Sep 19, 2010)

thanks for letting post the photos and for your input. next question, who would i market it to, and what would be a fair price? i know somebody must race this type of modified chassis. thanks again for all your help! smalls


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Good questions,but i don't have an answer for you

Throw it up for sale in the S&S section and see if you get any takers.

No thanks needed,if you want to post something,go ahead and post it.
You don't have to ask.

Bill if you got something to post,don't be scared to post it.
You don't need to ask permission to post on somebodies thread,just do it:thumbsup:
Rick


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