# Danger, DANGER Chris Robinsonisall!



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

*Danger, DANGER Chris Robinsonisall! Another Robot build.*

So while I'm waiting on the molding supplies for my assault phaser, I must dive into my next project- accurizing a YM-3.

My client had one sent to me straight from eBay brand new.
















Clear parts a little yellowed, par for the course...








Wait... the collar clear was glued together with the lines not lined up... looks like it was started & aborted early on, glue streaks inside as well...








Crappy job, it comes apart pretty easily.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Moebius!****
***We need you now!!!

***help***!!!

1/6th scale, for the love all that is LISFAN!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

BTW: Beautiful idea................


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Claws up first- cut, angle, re-glue, fill & file.








































I'll fine tune those in a bit.

Now let's get those treads to look like they separate a little better. Luckily, every seam comes apart nicely with the aid on my handy hairdryer.:thumbsup:

















My own Robot was modded well after it was originally built; this one I have total access to now, so it'll come out SO much better than mine *snif*. But mine has sentimental value attached- it could never be replaced for that reason.


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Chris, this looks like a good use of your time. In lieu of the much anticipated 1/6 Robot I'm sure that your client will benefit from your skills.

Did you check out the electronics yet? If so, how's it sound/look? Also, unless it's just the photo, it looks like you managed to, for lack of a better word, de-yellow the bubble quite a bit. If so, how'd you manage it?

Looking forward to another fun thread of watching your work in progress!

Tib


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Tiberious said:


> Did you check out the electronics yet? If so, how's it sound/look?


For almost three decades old, the voice box works pretty well- and that's good, my client wanted me to use it.


> Also, unless it's just the photo,


a _tiny_ bit is, I think


> it looks like you managed to, for lack of a better word, de-yellow the bubble quite a bit. If so, how'd you manage it?


That's a strange thing, I had planned to put the parts in sunlight for a few minutes a day to take care of some of that, but it seems just having the parts sitting on my table for a couple of weeks has lightened them some. My own Robot's bubble was pretty yellow when he was unpacked last year, but just sitting out (he NEVER goes back in the box now), it's all but gone!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

You are a committed builder, my friend. Or maybe I should say you should be _committed_....
No small task ahead of you! My bubble's off to you!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Or maybe I should say you should be _committed_....


More likely the case...


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I love that photo. The legs are just how I hope they'll be (on the --gulp--Moebius) dare I dream?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Imagine three on the shelf:


First season
Third season
One lit and talking


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> I love that photo. The legs are just how I hope they'll be (on the --gulp--Moebius) dare I dream?


We can MAKE them that way. Hell, I woulda made my Masudaya like that 'cept my Son said NO!!!!


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I had planned to put the parts in sunlight for a few minutes a day to take care of some of that, but it seems just having the parts sitting on my table for a couple of weeks has lightened them some.


 NEVER put your clear parts out in the sun!!!! This only makes them yellow faster. If you're trying to make them clearer, the only way is to recast them with clear resin. Otherwise there's no real way to remove it without some really shady voodoo type lightening tricks. Red, green, blue, and other colours don't just fade in the sunlight, but turn yellow after all the colour has faded away. This I know from experience, and seeing it happen to other people.

Very cool build by the way!  

~ Chris


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## zike (Jan 3, 2009)

*Wait... the collar clear was glued together with the lines not lined up... looks like it was started & aborted early on, glue streaks inside as well...*

Nope. Most come from the factory that way.

I've got several of those big "YM-3"s. I built one and have the rest stashed away.

In every one, the clear collar is assembled with various degrees of flaws. One of them is even very slightly short short with some small voids. And they are all also slighlty yellowed.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

zike said:


> Nope. Most come from the factory that way.


Oh, okay. I was spoiled then- _my_ Robot came with the lines perfectly lined up.:thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I also feel lucky because both of mine came assembled properly......:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> I also feel lucky because both of mine came assembled properly......:thumbsup:


And, not overly yellowed!
I expected you to post here, sooner or later, Tes. 
You will, no doubt, make YOURS with treads that work by RC...:thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> And, not overly yellowed!
> I expected you to post here, sooner or later, Tes.
> You will, no doubt, make YOURS with treads that work by RC...:thumbsup:


I was happy with the condition of all the clear parts, a little cleaning and they turned out nice. I look forward to your posts, love the work you do and always follow when you have a project underway.......:thumbsup: 
I'm always on the lookout for stuff for the old boys. My latest find was this 72mm od, 55mm id, 9mm wide bearing for his lower torso and a 6 wire Slip-Ring to handle any power that might be needed in his tracks.......


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I knew it.


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## BigGuido (May 7, 2008)

I picked one of these Masudaya YM3/B-9 a few years back along with his older brother, Robby. These are both sitting on my stack, waiting to be done. The Robby one is the biggest problem child, though. The plastic dome for the head doesn't fit correctly. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this problem?

Also, has anyone modded these kits to contain modern lights and sound chips?


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## Larry523 (Feb 16, 2010)

Chrisisall said:


> And, not overly yellowed!
> I expected you to post here, sooner or later, Tes.
> You will, no doubt, make YOURS with treads that work by RC...:thumbsup:


And exactly 8 hours after he completes it, it will destroy his workbench... :thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Larry523 said:


> And exactly 8 hours after he completes it, it will destroy his workbench... :thumbsup:


As you can see, he'd be doing me a favor.......


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Larry523 said:


> And exactly 8 hours after he completes it, it will destroy his workbench... :thumbsup:


*DESTROY*! environmental controls, *DESTROY!* navigational Astrogator, *DESTROY!.........*


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## Bay7 (Nov 8, 1999)

kdaracal said:


> Imagine three on the shelf:
> 
> 
> First season
> ...


Casual LIS fan with a plan to build a Robot - whats the difference between a 1st and 2nd season Robot?

steve


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Bay7 said:


> Casual LIS fan with a plan to build a Robot - whats the difference between a 1st and 2nd season Robot?



First:









Second:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> First:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I wonder if someone knows if there were subtle differences in all three seasons? I just knew about the wrinkled legs and the little radar dishes on either sides if the head being silver in first season, and after color, they painted them red/yellow on one side for the color film, and the legs were more "refined"?

Anyone know the whole story?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I, for one, like the "grandma pantyhose" look from the first season.............


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

teslabe said:


> As you can see, he'd be doing me a favor.......


I thought my area was small - it is! I don't even have enough to put a cutting mat on.  It might help to put some of that into clear storage boxes. Sterilite makes some that would work perfectly for that. The paints, and soldering iron for one could go into a couple boxes to save room. You can still put them on the table, and be able to find them. :wave:



kdaracal said:


> I wonder if someone knows if there were subtle differences in all three seasons? I just knew about the wrinkled legs and the little radar dishes on either sides if the head being silver in first season, and after color, they painted them red/yellow on one side for the color film, and the legs were more "refined"?
> 
> Anyone know the whole story?


Also note how the hands are painted red? There are subtle differences in the course of filming that have occured. 



kdaracal said:


> I, for one, like the "grandma pantyhose" look from the first season.............


 I do too. But they felt that it was neccessary to add more colour once black and white T.V. was becoming a thing of the past at that time. They also felt that they needed a more professional look to the show as time, and profits allowed. This was an executive, and directoral decision. It made it more believable to the viewing audiences if this wasn't all one colour like Robby.

~ Chris​


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _I do too. But they felt that it was neccessary to add more colour once black and white T.V. was becoming a thing of the past at that time. They also felt that they needed a more professional look to the show as time, and profits allowed. This was an executive, and directoral decision. It made it more believable to the viewing audiences if this wasn't all one colour like Robby._


The legs look more "put together" or manufactured, as well. The older version looks hodge-podge.....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chris,
I know you have some serious dedication to your B-9. Just looking fantastic. Sorry to get off-topic. I have no intention on being a thread derail-er......

As a child of the LiS 60's, I have big emotions over that ridiculous robot. If there is a guy that can improve that already pretty good replica, it is you!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Chris,
> I know you have some serious dedication to your B-9. Just looking fantastic. Sorry to get off-topic. I have no intention on being a thread derail-er......


No worries- I like cross talk & jokes in a thread!

Oh, and BTW, I'm formulating my plan of lighting attack while I do the bits of bodywork.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Primed the finished claws:








Worked on the re-sized shoulder hooks:








First coat silver on claws:








A light sanding tomorrow, then final coat (Wait, wait, wait...)
Biggest question- how do I light up the ends of these?:








Ah, the challenges...:hat:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

A small drill bit, and fiberoptics. Looking better all the time! 

~ Chris​


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> A small drill bit, and fiberoptics.


But fiberoptics won't provide the correct effect.
I'm thinking tiny LEDs at the end of small copper tubes epoxied to the plastic circle. I still have a month & 1/2 before it's due.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Masterful!


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## Moonman27 (Aug 26, 2008)

Wow,what a thread. I need to dig out my YM-3 and get it accurized too,I think I have had him for 10 years now so...I really need to get some clear rod and redo the voice box area like you did. Looking good so far,keep us posted! :thumbsup:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> But fiberoptics won't provide the correct effect.
> I'm thinking tiny LEDs at the end of small copper tubes epoxied to the plastic circle. I still have a month & 1/2 before it's due.


 How big around are the tubes? Since you can get fibreoptics in just about any size. I saw someone on evilbay paint the ends of theirs - this was for an X-wing kit. The effect was very realistic, and satisfying. I'm going to try that on my next build. If brighness is an issue, you can try it first, then go with tiny LEDs.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> How big around are the tubes?


A little under 1.5 mm. I know I can work something out. They can't NOT be lit- that would seem crappy.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

I understand. I know that grain of wheat bulbs would get hot - there's a scenario that no of us want to live with!! :freak: You're looking for brightness, and intensity of colour? The only thing I can think of is what you're thinking, but with darkly painted fibreoptics run through each of these going to a centrally located LED hidden inside the body. You can use an LED to light up the chest, but small things need a simple solution that may not always be simple. I don't know if they make an LED that small. Plus, you'd have to replace it if it burned out, and that could be disastrous if glued in! I can't think of any other way to do this, and achieve a similar effect to having them lit separately. Or - you can use florescent paint to simulate the glowing effect, but that seems to cheap, and not as realistic, or satisfying.

~ Chris​


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Actually, I'm ruling nothing out until I do some tests. The components aren't terribly expensive, so I can play a bit before my final resolution.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

If you could use fiberoptics in the dome and an LED inside the body to light them, that would be the easiest route. Like I said before, the smallest things needs a simple solution - but it may not be so simple when you're trying to achieve a certain desired effect. My way is simple, but it may not be what you're thinking this will, or should look like in your mind. Or, it could be what you've been thinking all along. The only way to tell is to try it out on something similar - I definately would at least try the fiberoptics instead of brightly coloured paint! It would take at least two LEDs to make this work, but it would definately be worth the trouble to do something with actual light. If I remember correctly, these were just regular white lights - simple enough to use fairly good sized fiberoptic wires inside, and achieve a good enough effect to be satisfying, and realistic/accurate to the original prop. There were only tiny lights inside B9's head - correct? I can't exactly remember without looking directly at him since most of the pictures/episodes I've seen of him are black & white.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Here we go, turning out nicer than I made for my OWN Robot!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Here we go, turning out nicer than I made for my OWN Robot!


You can see the grain of the steel, just like in the show.......


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> You can see the grain of the steel, just like in the show.......


On mine or the ones in progress?


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> On mine or the ones in progress?


Well, sorry. I was looking _wrong_. Your "done" claw is the one with grain. But, nevertheless, awesome work!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

forgive me if this has been brought up before, but what about using those new products made for restoring clarity to auto headlight covers to "de-yellow" the bubble and collar? 

Has it been tried? any results worth noting?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Has it been tried? any results worth noting?


The thing is that it's not yellowed on the outside, it's yellow to the core. It's a change in the colour of the plastic itself. The chestplate, who while also clear, is a different plastic, and that's why it doesn't turn yellow like the collar & bubble.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

in that case, has anyone tried recasting (yes, i know, a dirty word!) the parts in clear resin? The guys at timeslip have been getting some astounding results casting clear parts for thier big boy Enterprise


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

And as you're ordering some casting materials for your phaser project......


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> A little under 1.5 mm. I know I can work something out. They can't NOT be lit- that would seem crappy.


Go with the rod and LED approach, IMHO it just looks so much better. I'd be happy to post some pictures of my WIP if you'd like.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> I'd be happy to post some pictures of my WIP if you'd like.


Yes, please, my master. In matters of the Robot, you are da man.:thumbsup:
That's the only part that was really making me grit my teeth.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Tiberious said:


> And as you're ordering some casting materials for your phaser project......


I'm actually gonna be casting the chestplate & lower torso windows in clear resin...


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Yes, please, my master. In matters of the Robot, you are da man.:thumbsup:
> That's the only part that was really making me grit my teeth.


I'm far from a master at anything, just kinda good at some things, but thank you for the very nice intro......:wave: I had bought some K&S #1143 (1.57mm x .355mm) just for this part of the build and used some brass peices, sorry I didn't know it's part number, but it's I/D is 1.57mm approx. I soldered the peices, it's easier to hold a precise position, at least for me....... The wire is 33AWG mag-wire, that's about all that will fit down the hole of the main rod. I just used 5min epoxy on the end and took my time forming the bulb. I will post pictures of them lit sometime this week, I want the paint to have time to dry completely before I touch them again....... I'm doing a season 2 version of the old boy so the ends are painted using Tamiya clear red #X-27, I only use white LEDs anymore, just more useful then having all these different color LEDs to deal with......
I used 0603 SMT LEDs, they are very small so take your time when soldering to them. I hope this gives you some ideas, I think it will look far better then FO. By the way, did your "Brain" come glued, mine did and I'm having a problem getting it apart, don't want to break it........:drunk: Any suggestions as how to get it apart?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

That great work there!!! As I expected.:thumbsup: Thanks!

Yeah, mine came glued as well. I conjure I might not need to take it apart to do what I'm planning, but if I need to I'll just hack off the top & do the bodywork after.
You probably have this picture (or one like it) already, but just in case, look:
http://www.b9robotbuildersclub.com/pub/parts/B90267/images/brian_kit.JPG
Nice pattern of the brain holes.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Here we go, turning out nicer than I made for my OWN Robot!


Awesome results. This is what I like to see when replcating something I want to be 100% accurate! Great thread. I can't wait to see the electric guts wired when you get to them. 



Lou Dalmaso said:


> in that case, has anyone tried recasting (yes, i know, a dirty word!) the parts in clear resin? The guys at timeslip have been getting some astounding results casting clear parts for thier big boy Enterprise


 I can do that! With some practice, and a lot of patience you can mould and cast just about anything. I'm having great results with the stuff I'm using at the moment. I just need to find something with a little less viscosity (thinner) so that I can get it to flow into the small recesses of my moulds. 

~ Chris​


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey Chrissal!!

Great thread!! (already duly bookmarked; every pic downloaded).

Thanks a lot! :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey Chrissal!!
> 
> Great thread!!


Thanks!

Cut out the lower torso windows, working on the shoulder hooks...










But the windows I cut out are totally inaccurate; I have to build 2 replacements from scratch to mold & cast (one for the front, one for the other three).


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Holy smokes! Nice work!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Holy smokes! Nice work!


Thanks, I'm takin' it slow, makin' sure; I want my client to be seriously wowed with the final result. If I don't cry when I send it off to him, then I will not have done it right.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Cut out the lower torso windows, working on the shoulder hooks...
> 
> ...


 Here's a tip that may save you some time: Make a part that looks like it should in a long strip. Then mould that, and cut it apart where needed. This should save some work, and a lot of time mastering a new part. 

I've been taking it TOO slow!  I'm in a rut right now, but I've taken time off to figure out how to best get around this so I can make the most of my build. Once cast it'll be what I want others to own. I wouldn't make something that no one would care to have - I make it so that if I want it, someone else will too. I consider this quality when making any type of model whether it's one that I produced over and over, or a one of a kind. Ergo: It's better to take your time to produce a quality product than to make something that will have to be replaced, or is dissatisfying to your customer(s)! I know this will be great with all the work you've put into it so far. :wave:

~ Chris​


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Dyonisis said:


> Here's a tip that may save you some time: Make a part that looks like it should in a long strip. Then mould that, and cut it apart where needed. This should save some work, and a lot of time mastering a new part.
> 
> I've been taking it TOO slow!  I'm in a rut right now, but I've taken time off to figure out how to best get around this so I can make the most of my build. Once cast it'll be what I want others to own. I wouldn't make something that no one would care to have - I make it so that if I want it, someone else will too. I consider this quality when making any type of model whether it's one that I produced over and over, or a one of a kind. Ergo: It's better to take your time to produce a quality product than to make something that will have to be replaced, or is dissatisfying to your customer(s)! I know this will be great with all the work you've put into it so far. :wave:
> 
> ~ Chris​


Dyonosis: You are always an inspiration!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> Here's a tip that may save you some time: Make a part that looks like it should in a long strip. Then mould that, and cut it apart where needed.


Chris! Not a strip exactly, but one piece for the three that can also be modified for the front one. Thanks for the idea, dude, cut my work in half on that part!!:thumbsup:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Chris! Not a strip exactly, but one piece for the three that can also be modified for the front one. Thanks for the idea, dude, cut my work in half on that part!!:thumbsup:


One piece is what I meant - I'm not too much myself today. I've had a rough week, and I'm still recovering. I'm glad I could help.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

kdaracal said:


> Dyonosis: You are always an inspiration!


 Thanks, K! I appreciate it. I'm just trying to do what I came here for. 

~ Chris​


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> One piece is what I meant -


One piece that I can cast 4 times, I mean, instead of 2 different pieces to cast 3 and 1 times, respectively. Still, YOU gave me the idea- thanks again!


> I'm not too much myself today. I've had a rough week, and I'm still recovering.


Sorry, maybe put on War Of The Robots & get a pizza? Works for me.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> That great work there!!! As I expected.:thumbsup: Thanks!
> 
> Yeah, mine came glued as well. I conjure I might not need to take it apart to do what I'm planning, but if I need to I'll just hack off the top & do the bodywork after.
> You probably have this picture (or one like it) already, but just in case, look:
> ...


Sorry it took so long for me to say thank you for the link....... It took some time but I did get the "Brain" apart and the lights in, but at this size there was no way I was going to try to make the hole pattern like in that photo .....:freak: Also got the "Crown" spinning, if you decide to do this be aware, the hole at the top is not parallel, at least on mine, it took a few tries to find the "Sweet-Spot" ......:drunk:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> One piece that I can cast 4 times, I mean, instead of 2 different pieces to cast 3 and 1 times, respectively. Still, YOU gave me the idea- thanks again!
> Sorry, maybe put on War Of The Robots & get a pizza? Works for me.


 You're more than welcome my friend! I'm just glad to see someone build one of these. I thought about it a while ago (last year), but I didn't know what kind of quality these are. At least I can get an idea of what I'm looking at when I come here. There are so many models I'd like to have, but so little time, or availability of space to work on them. 



teslabe said:


> Sorry it took so long for me to say thank you for the link....... It took some time but I did get the "Brain" apart and the lights in, but at this size there was no way I was going to try to make the hole pattern like in that photo .....:freak: Also got the "Crown" spinning, if you decide to do this be aware, the hole at the top is not parallel, at least on mine, it took a few tries to find the "Sweet-Spot" ......:drunk:


 That's cool! I wouldn't have thought to light this up without reference. I've only seen the show a gazillion times, but never put a lot of thought into all the detail B9 has!  That head has a lot of LEDs, but I would've put a light strip behind the holes somewhat like the Millenium Falcon, but that would've been WRONG! :drunk: It's good to see people that know what they're doing with these. 

~ Chris​


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Teslabe.

Great work, as always!! :thumbsup:

This thread is being truly revealing. Brilliant ideas here. :wave:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thank you very much Fernando and Chris. Chrisisall, anything new to post?????
This is a great thread and can't wait to see your progress....... With Moebius not doing a large B-9, at least for now, these Masudayas are all I have to feed my obsession and I'm new to working with Vinyl, so I look forward to your pictures...... I once posted that it was because of the fine job you did on yours that prompted me to buy mine, never knew how nice one could turn out til I saw the great outcome with yours........:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> Chrisisall, anything new to post?????


Not really, I've been suffering from a Vulcan Mind Meld, er, I mean _severe back pain_... but I *did* get replacement dish for my '83 Falcon!










A guy named Scratchy on RPF made it, he's quite the talent!!!:thumbsup:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Not really, I've been suffering from a Vulcan Mind Meld, er, I mean _severe back pain_... but I *did* get replacement dish for my '83 Falcon!
> 
> 
> A guy named Scratchy on RPF made it, he's quite the talent!!!:thumbsup:


Oh, dude! If you only knew. Scratchy's the man! I have a lot of respect for him. He was originally on studioscalemodeler before it went down for the last time. It's under new ownership, but that took me and both of the administrators a lot of work to get it up to snuff. Either way, I've watched him since he first joined up over there. Some very cool stuff! I'm glad he could help you out. 

~ Chris​


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Not really, I've been suffering from a Vulcan Mind Meld, er, I mean _severe back pain_... but I *did* get replacement dish for my '83 Falcon!


Hi Chris, Sorry to hear about your back, I screwed mine up in the Air Force and can only sit for short periods before I need to get up and walk around.......:drunk: 
Chris, please let me know if I'm out of line posting in your tread, I'll stop if you'd like...... But here is were I'm at right now, as I stated earlier, I'm doing a season 2 version, so red claws for my boy. I'm nowhere near your skill level at casting, especially clear parts, so for my torso grills I used 18 AWG Teflon tubing with 20 AWG Buss Wire to help hold it's shape. Hope it looks close enough, feel free to comment, I think my skin's thick enough to take it....... I hope your back settles down enough so you can update us on your work so far......:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> Hope it looks close enough, feel free to comment, I think my skin's thick enough to take it


Not sure about how you'll like it later, but it IS a solution.
My Robot has pieces of a clear floor mat I got at an auto parts store- looks okay, but the curve isn't holding very well...









Look, if you want when I cast my own clear parts (Upper chest included) in a couple of weeks, I could sell you a set at what it costs me to pour it, I'm gonna be upgrading MY Robot as I do my clients, making three sets wouldn't be much harder than making two.
I'll post the pics as I make progress.

Your claws are awesome, btw. And post all you like here, all Robots welcome!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Look, if you want when I cast my own clear parts (Upper chest included) in a couple of weeks, I could sell you a set at what it costs me to pour it, I'm gonna be upgrading MY Robot as I do my clients, making three sets wouldn't be much harder than making two.
> I'll post the pics as I make progress.
> 
> Your claws are awesome, btw. And post all you like here, all Robots welcome!


Thank you and count me in, not sure if I'd use the upper chest portion, I have other plans for its depiction, but I'd give it a try. I look forward to some pictures.


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

[QUOTE I'm nowhere near your skill level at casting, especially clear parts, so for my torso grills I used 18 AWG Teflon tubing with 20 AWG Buss Wire to help hold it's shape. Hope it looks close enough, feel free to comment,[/QUOTE]

Tesla, I think that looks great. If you wanted to go for clear, you could use the same method I used for my J2 light beams. A well stocked hobby/model RR shop should have clear acrylic rods of varying small (way down to .040) diameters that would work with this scale. Make a jig out of scrap wood or plastic and use any kind of heat source to soften the plastic rod. You'll need to leave some overhang at either end for gripping the plastic. I find that a good heat gun works best for control but I've used the oven. Hot water is too messy. Soften the middle of a length of acrylic and quickly wrap it around the curved jig. Let cool under pressure for a couple minutes and repeat. For the breast plate, you could use strips of styrene around that jig to increase the diameter as the r of the curve increases. Just don't melt the jig (if it's styrene) as you heat the acrylic.

Beautiful work, all!


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

teslabe said:


> Hi Chris, Sorry to hear about your back, I screwed mine up in the Air Force and can only sit for short periods before I need to get up and walk around.......:drunk:
> Chris, please let me know if I'm out of line posting in your tread, I'll stop if you'd like...... But here is were I'm at right now, as I stated earlier, I'm doing a season 2 version, so red claws for my boy. I'm nowhere near your skill level at casting, especially clear parts, so for my torso grills I used 18 AWG Teflon tubing with 20 AWG Buss Wire to help hold it's shape. Hope it looks close enough, feel free to comment, I think my skin's thick enough to take it....... I hope your back settles down enough so you can update us on your work so far......:wave:


Good idea with the teflon tubing. That ball bearing looks very familiar, I work on copiers and that is the same size used on the fuser rollers. They are designed to take heat that would reduce the plastic in the robot to a puddle of goo so it should last nearly forever in this application.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, I got the two pieces I'm going to use to mold, 








the chest plate will be cut out & similarly molded so I can FO light it from behind








and I have to get slightly thicker FO cable to connect to the light unit.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

You_ might _not need thicker FO. Practice Flareing the end of a short piece of the 1mm fo.
Then you can see if a bit of diffusion material: Foam, scuffed clear plastic..etc. with be enough to light the entire circular light.

Steve


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

steve123 said:


> You_ might _not need thicker FO. Practice Flareing the end of a short piece of the 1mm fo.
> Then you can see if a bit of diffusion material: Foam, scuffed clear plastic..etc. with be enough to light the entire circular light.


Thanks, yeah, I think I gotta get a couple more thicker strands for the two big lights, but I'll test it with what I have first. I have extra length.
:thumbsup:


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

It's friday night..I need my weekly update....unless there is a Dr Quinn medicine Woman all nighter going on...

Steve


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

steve123 said:


> It's friday night..I need my weekly update....unless there is a Dr Quinn medicine Woman all nighter going on...
> 
> Steve


Dr.Quinn? I hope you're kidding!!! :drunk: I'd rather be sleeping! 


I'm glad to see that this is still going on. I've had a lot of family drama lately, so I've had to shelve everything until it was settled. I just got back into the swing of things yesterday. I'll be busy with mastering my X-wing kit, but soon I'll be getting more fiberoptics too. I can't wait to see what happens with these. 

~ Chris​


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Outstanding !!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Well, I've molded the vents,


















But I can't use the resin because I have to vent the area and it's like 100 degree outside!!!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

steve123 said:


> It's friday night..I need my weekly update....unless there is a Dr Quinn medicine Woman all nighter going on...


Anything with Jane is good. Ever see "Lassiter"?


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Well, I've molded the vents,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Those moulds are AWESOME!!!!! How did you make these without a mould box, or form? What brand are you using? That purple looks cool. I wonder if you could use this for a costume? You know, make a rubber cast from a rubber mould using mould release to keep the two from sticking together. 


~ Another Chris​


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> How did you make these without a mould box, or form? What brand are you using?


Oh, that's just silicone putty, you can get it at art supply places like Michael's. Great for simple little casting projects.


> I wonder if you could use this for a costume?


No, it' not that kind of rubber, tears too easily. Liquid latex rubber & plaster molds work better for that.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Poured it today (the heat let up)...










and it needs to cure for 24 hrs, but I popped a test mold early to see...










and it's looking good.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _and it's looking good._


Fabulous! That makes me smile....Great job. And it looks relatively simply.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Fabulous! That makes me smile....Great job. And it looks relatively simply.


Oh, there's little things like not letting the sillicone putty warp or press out of shape during molding, but that can be learned in a few passes. The mixing & pouring of the resin just requires attention to small bubbles. It's not hard at all. WAITING for it to cure is the HARD part, which is why I had a test mold set to pop early to sate my impatient curiosity. :tongue:

And wax paper... nice to have it around!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Test fit with the throwaway piece:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

WOW!! Fantastic job!! Congratulations Chrisisall. :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Getting some nice pieces from these molds...


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chris, is that 'smash mold' putty? And, what's the brand? Recall?

Thanks,
hal9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> Chris, is that 'smash mold' putty? And, what's the brand? Recall?


Castin' Craft.
:thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Outstanding work! I love it!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Outstanding work! I love it!


You need any? I can make more....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> You need any? I can make more....


Na, I'm holding my breath for _(you know who......)_


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Na, I'm holding my breath for _(you know who......)_


MO....?:lol:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> MO....?:lol:


..........e....... :tongue:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> MO....?:lol:


.........bius


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

That castin' craft looked good at first, but I thought that it cured white. I know that they have the clear, but I haven't tried it yet. Very good looking parts. And yes, THANK THE MAKER that the weather has finally cooled down to a reasonable level!!! I know that I'm only a few states away from where you are, but the heat's been unbearable no matter where you go! I hope that it stays cooler for a couple days anyway. 

~ Another Chris​


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

This is certainly one impressive build !!! And I'm learning some stuff that I never knew was possible. My hat is off to you Chris. Have you ever thought of selling some of these re-cast parts ? The vents, reshaped claws and such ?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> This is certainly one impressive build !!! And I'm learning some stuff that I never knew was possible. My hat is off to you Chris. Have you ever thought of selling some of these re-cast parts ? The vents, reshaped claws and such ?


Well, the claws are re-worked, not molded. But vents... I'm working on it.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Chris, if you decide to do any clear casts of any of the Masudaya robot parts, vents, chest panel etc, and you want to sell some, just let me know. I would be happy to pay for them. In fact I would buy several. And by the way,...any tips on how to get the claws out of the cuffs ?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Chris, if you decide to do any clear casts of any of the Masudaya robot parts, vents, chest panel etc, and you want to sell some, just let me know. I would be happy to pay for them. In fact I would buy several.


My first & second perfect sets of vents are spoken for, but I'll let ya know when I have more (damn weather, it's either raining or 90 degrees!!! ).


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

And by the way,...any tips on how to get the claws out of the cuffs ?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> And by the way,...any tips on how to get the claws out of the cuffs ?


THAT is problematic. They push in & click. They *should* be able to be pulled out the same way, but I fear snappage of the cuff, and have never attempted it, so I worked on my Robot's claws BEFORE attaching them. I also re-worked them later while attached.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Thanks Chris, if I should stumble upon some trick of getting the claws out, I will let you know.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Thanks!


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## J2 builder (Apr 8, 2012)

This is a great thread. I looked this robot up on ebay and saw they range in price anywhere from 14 bucks up to about 300 bucks. What is the difference? Also, being made of vinyl scares me a little as I have never worked with a vinyl model before.

You have done a great job "restoring" it to the original look. But I have a comment. I don't think the three "windows" you cast in clear are windows at all. They are access doors, at least the one in front is a door. In some earlier episodes characters are seen sliding the door open and pulling out "computer tape". There is also an on/off switch inside the center door that was only used once or twice in early episodes. No lights are ever seen through these things in the show, I always thought they were just bright metal with darker, evenly spaced lines.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

J2 builder said:


> This is a great thread. I looked this robot up on ebay and saw they range in price anywhere from 14 bucks up to about 300 bucks. What is the difference? Also, being made of vinyl scares me a little as I have never worked with a vinyl model before.
> 
> You have done a great job "restoring" it to the original look. But I have a comment. I don't think the three "windows" you cast in clear are windows at all. They are access doors, at least the one in front is a door. In some earlier episodes characters are seen sliding the door open and pulling out "computer tape". There is also an on/off switch inside the center door that was only used once or twice in early episodes. No lights are ever seen through these things in the show, I always thought they were just bright metal with darker, evenly spaced lines.


The low priced offerings are the wind-up toy, I believe. And the vents are clear and I think Chris did a great job duplicating the look......:thumbsup:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I've been watching alot of the old LIS episodes lately. And the front vent type panel is accessible, and if memory serves, there are two or three lights in there. Along with a toggle switch and a flat round removable disk. The others panels on the sides and back are clear as well. But I have never seen an episode where there were used for access. I have always just believed they were vents for cooling. And were most likely added for the purpose of giving Bob a little air,lol. But I think Chris has done a fantastic job with this build. I wish my skills were equal to his.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe!

Did you do the clear vent shown in your second image? 

It was a superb job, anyway! :thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe!
> 
> Did you do the clear vent shown in your second image?
> 
> It was a superb job, anyway! :thumbsup:


Hi Fernando,
No, I can't take credit for those full size vents, not sure where I got that picture from.......


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## J2 builder (Apr 8, 2012)

I was wrong. They are indeed clear. I watched the episode with the computer tape again, and I'll be darned if there wasn't a light visible through the front window. Just goes to show no matter how many times you watch something there is always something new to be learned....But it did slide open, so I know I'm not completely nuts.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Nice research, folks!


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

J2 builder said:


> ....so I know I'm not completely nuts.


That's not what I heard!  Not to worry, your secret is safe with me. 

hal9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> The low priced offerings are the wind-up toy, I believe.


Yeah, and it's really a GREAT toy, just kinda small- I have 3 or 4 myself. For my money, I think it's actually the most accurate commercially available toy out there.


> And the vents are clear and I think Chris did a great job duplicating the look......:thumbsup:


One tries.
Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Still waiting for clear pieces to cure (chest plate, mainly), but nearing the ultimate wrap-up. Next week will be crazy...:freak:


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Hey Mr., what happened to your robot? He explode or sumthin'?

Look forward to seeing the chest plate in action! I thought about trying to 'smash mold' one for the PL B-9 kit. I've never tried it before but it shouldn't be too hard. I'm kinda waiting to see what I think about the PGMS one.

hal9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> Hey Mr., what happened to your robot? He explode or sumthin'?


 Mr. Nobody was here...:freak:


> Look forward to seeing the chest plate in action!


Fresh out of the molds...










I can work with one of these!


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

WOW!! How are you making these without any bubbles? I have some clear resin, but it gets bubbles in it while it cures, even if there are no bubbles in it while mixing. I just don't understand it! 

~ Chris​


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> WOW!! How are you making these without any bubbles? [/CENTER]


First, I don't even attempt it when it's humid, next, I DO get some bubbles, but I "sweep" them out right after I pour, finally, I pour 4X as many as I need so I can discard any that form bubbles later when I'm not lookin'.:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oh FUDGE!!!
I didn't allow for the difference in the cut!!!












The fit isn't perfect! I have to re-mold it & allow for extra around the edges!!!

Oh well, such is modeling.:thumbsup:


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Even though that one's not a perfect fit it still shows just how good that's gonna look when you get it done!

Can't wait to see this thing lit up....

hal9001-


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

hal9001 said:


> Even though that one's not a perfect fit it still shows just how good that's gonna look when you get it done!


I second that...



hal9001 said:


> Can't wait to see this thing lit up....


... and that.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

It's OK. You live and you learn. I've had to go through almost a whole damn bottle of this stuff before I got a small handful of usable parts!  MY first reaction was; "WTF?!" Either way, at least it didn't take you forever to learn how to get the casting down right. My parts have such tiny bubbles that you don't see them until the stuff is half way catalyzed! :freak:

~ Another Chris​


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Dyonisis said:


> My parts have such tiny bubbles that you don't see them until the stuff is half way catalyzed! :freak:


Well, on these particular parts I have the luxury of not needing crystal clearness anyway. I'd be going nuts if I was casting a new bubble for the brain...:freak:


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> Well, on these particular parts I have the luxury of not needing crystal clearness anyway. I'd be going nuts if I was casting a new bubble for the brain...:freak:


Your brain has bubbles? Sorry to hear it....:lol:

hal9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> Your brain has bubbles? Sorry to hear it....:lol:


*Joe Hallenbeck voice*
I'm peeing in my pants, you're so funny out here. 
:tongue:


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Well, on these particular parts I have the luxury of not needing crystal clearness anyway. I'd be going nuts if I was casting a new bubble for the brain...:freak:


 The problem is that I NEED crystal clarity, or at least bubble free as much as physically possible since I was using this as a test to see how well it came out. The sad thing is that I'll never be able to now without a paint pressure pot. This resin kicks too fast for me to be able to pour it, then put inside, then air it up! By the time I've done all that it's too late for worrying about air bubbles because it's already starting to kick off, or gel. I originally intended this resin for casting translucent Xbox controllers, and to replace the opaque controllers for my Nintendo 64. I guess *THAT'S *not going to happen anytime soon! At least it won't with what I have. I'll just use the smooth-on stuff for this instead. 

The other resin is good for big parts that don't have a lot of detail, or need undercuts. I'm going to check out a different resin that has a very low viscosity, and hope that it will be the answer to my prayers! This is the only thing that's stopping me from being able to cast my X-wing fighter models with any real success!









~ Another Chris​


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## jonboc (Nov 25, 2007)

Hi Chris, I'm building one of these as well, any chance I could buy some vents and a chest part from you? If not, that's ok, I know they are probably a pain to pour, I just had to ask! Also, you might like to try what I did to my legs and treads. I basically masked them off real well and sprayed them down with a few coats of plast-dip from home depot. (that stuff they dip metal tool handles in to give them a rubber grip) It gave them a great rubber-like texture and feel when handling it. You're doing a bang-up job, looking forward to seeing it finished and lit!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi Chris,
Love the new chest plate, will look great when lite......:thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

jonboc said:


> You might like to try what I did to my legs and treads. I basically masked them off real well and sprayed them down with a few coats of plast-dip from home depot. (that stuff they dip metal tool handles in to give them a rubber grip) It gave them a great rubber-like texture and feel when handling it.


What a great idea, I'll be stopping at Home Depot today to pick some up and see how it looks......:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

jonboc said:


> Hi Chris, I'm building one of these as well, any chance I could buy some vents and a chest part from you?


 I just made new chest plate molds, I'll be pouring them soon, and you can certainly have one when it's all over.


> I basically masked them off real well and sprayed them down with a few coats of plast-dip from home depot. (that stuff they dip metal tool handles in to give them a rubber grip) It gave them a great rubber-like texture and feel when handling it.


I will look into that! THANKS!


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## jonboc (Nov 25, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> I just made new chest plate molds, I'll be pouring them soon, and you can certainly have one when it's all over.
> I will look into that! THANKS!


You're more than welcome, and thanks for the part. and thank you Teslabe, I hope it works out well for you both. You know, I thought about using the Plasti-dip spray for the arms as well, but I wasn't convinced I could get good coverage, considering the way those arms are made. I keep telling myself, surely, there is some man-made rubber hose out there that could be used...and I keep looking....and looking...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

jonboc said:


> I keep telling myself, surely, there is some man-made rubber hose out there that could be used...and I keep looking....and looking...


I did some rather extensive by-foot & online searches last year, and came up with 1 (coun't 'em, ONE) flexible dishwasher hose connection in the correct diameter that would be suitable- and only suitable, not substantially _better_ than the existing arms.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I did some rather extensive by-foot & online searches last year, and came up with 1 (coun't 'em, ONE) flexible dishwasher hose connection in the correct diameter that would be suitable- and only suitable, not substantially _better_ than the exciting arms.


That sounds like the luck I've been having! That makes me none too happy to hear that everyone else has the same problem finding things that work for them. That doesn't give me a lot of hope for the future, especially when there are so many that need something very similar for other projects! On another sour note: I guess that the labour day fireworks are going to be a drag since they're not going to shoot them off because of the rain, so I brought my own. I hope you guys like them. Enjoy! 

~ Chris ​


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Chris, how about some new pics of old G.U.N.T.H.E.R.? Maybe with your phaser in the background? 

Tib


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Tiberious said:


> Chris, how about some new pics of old G.U.N.T.H.E.R.?


GUNTHER?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

jonboc said:


> I keep telling myself, surely, there is some man-made rubber hose out there that could be used...and I keep looking....and looking...


Well, I just ordered 2 of these Rubber Bellows and will let everyone know how it looks when I get them. The listing states that it's 26cm or a little over 10" long, more then enough for two arms, always good to have a spare. I'll have them dyed gray......:thumbsup:


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## J2 builder (Apr 8, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> GUNTHER?



So the story goes, GUNTER (no H) was supposed to be the robot's name, but was not used. In the 3rd season episode "Time Merchant" Dr. Smith and the robot are sent back in time prior to the launch of the Jupiter 2. In this episode we see the crate the robot came in and on the side is marked, "General Utility Non Theorizing Environmental Robot...GUNTER.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> Well, I just ordered 2 of these Rubber Bellows and will let everyone know how it looks when I get them.


I was looking for the proper colour... never thought to get black I change it...
Another problem is the inability to 'pose' them. All the stuff I looked at just sprung straight when let go. I REALLY didn't want to go building an armature for each arm.:freak:


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## jonboc (Nov 25, 2007)

teslabe said:


> Well, I just ordered 2 of these Rubber Bellows and will let everyone know how it looks when I get them. The listing states that it's 26cm or a little over 10" long, more then enough for two arms, always good to have a spare. I'll have them dyed gray......:thumbsup:


That looks great, looking forward to seeing how they work out!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

J2 builder said:


> "General Utility Non Theorizing Environmental Robot...GUNTER.


Thanks!


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Yeah, my bad, I didn't intend to put the H in but was multi-tasking. Gunter. I hadn't seen the name used here much so I thought I'd be funny. Shame I didn't check my spelling first.

Tib


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I got a chestplate to work, preparing lucite rods for anchoring into the walls,








test placed the front vent backing,








and I find I have a few vents & chestplates left over...












jonboc said:


> any chance I could buy some vents and a chest part from you


PM me for address details, one thing though, after working the chestplate, it will have to be buffed, it can be done by hand, but for a glassy clearness, a machine of some kind (buffer, buff thingy on a drill..) will be necessary.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> I got a chestplate to work, preparing lucite rods for anchoring into the walls,
> test placed the front vent backing,
> and I find I have a few vents & chestplates left over...


Your castings turned out very nice.......:thumbsup: Can't wait for the next set of pictures......:wave:


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## zike (Jan 3, 2009)

teslabe said:


> Well, I just ordered 2 of these Rubber Bellows and will let everyone know how it looks when I get them. The listing states that it's 26cm or a little over 10" long, more then enough for two arms, always good to have a spare. I'll have them dyed gray......:thumbsup:


Is there an OUTER diameter stated?

It looks like that bellows is a bit too big based on the inner diameter shown in the photo.

The arms on the big Masudaya 'bot are about 1.4" in diameter. The photo shows the bellows with an I.D. of 1.18". If that's correct, the outer diameter of the bellows scales to about 1.8" and that would make it too big to fit into the torso cut-outs. But it's hard to tell for sure so it would be convenient if an O.D. was listed.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

zike said:


> Is there an OUTER diameter stated?
> 
> It looks like that bellows is a bit too big based on the inner diameter shown in the photo.
> 
> The arms on the big Masudaya 'bot are about 1.4" in diameter. The photo shows the bellows with an I.D. of 1.18". If that's correct, the outer diameter of the bellows scales to about 1.8" and that would make it too big to fit into the torso cut-outs. But it's hard to tell for sure so it would be convenient if an O.D. was listed.


The actual OD is 1.5" and I have no problem spending $14.00 on something that might turn out great. Sometimes you just need to take a chance....


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> The actual OD is 1.5" and I have no problem spending $14.00 on something that might turn out great. Sometimes you just need to take a chance....


Risk! Risk is our BUSINESS!
Ooops, wrong series.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Teslabe, I certainly hope the bellows work for you. And if they do,....then I hope you will let us know where you found them ! I have searched high and low for arm replacements for my own Masudaya Robot. So far I have come up empty. And I too have taken a few chances on such things. So I hope your gamble pays off.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> Your castings turned out very nice.......:thumbsup: Can't wait for the next set of pictures......:wave:


I installed the vents in my own Robot as a test before doing my client's- I like 'em!

















I drew the mesh on the rear of the non-front ones with a silver sharpie, subtle but effective.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I like'em, too! Can't wait to see the finished guy!


----------



## paustin0816 (Nov 8, 2006)

That is awesome, I can't wait to see that new front panel lit up. Would love these additions for my Masudaya


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DCH10664 said:


> Teslabe, I certainly hope the bellows work for you. And if they do,....then I hope you will let us know where you found them ! I have searched high and low for arm replacements for my own Masudaya Robot. So far I have come up empty. And I too have taken a few chances on such things. So I hope your gamble pays off.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/30mm-Dia-Bl...1916981239815791191&pid=100015&prg=1017&rk=1&

I'm sorry, I thought I posted the listing......:drunk: The OD is 1.9", Zike wasn't far off. I hope the rubber is thin enough to cut a 0.40" slice out, reduce the OD to 1.5" and glue it with rubber cement using the section I removed as an interior surface for the two sides, giving me a clean seam on the outside. I'll post pictures if it works......:wave:


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> I installed the vents in my own Robot as a test before doing my client's- I like 'em!
> I drew the mesh on the rear of the non-front ones with a silver sharpie, subtle but effective.


What can I say, Very Nice......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## zike (Jan 3, 2009)

teslabe said:


> I'm sorry, I thought I posted the... the Toy Island robot has other big problems)


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

zike said:


> The small Masudaya 'bot, Franklin Mint B-9 and the Toy Island B-9 got it right (though the Toy Island robot has other big problems)


I love that little Masudaya 'bot!:thumbsup:


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

paustin0816 said:


> That is awesome, I can't wait to see that new fomt panel lit up. Would love these additions for my Masudaya


I still have some pieces left if anyone needs 'em. You know the drill, PM me. Not too expensive either.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

And... moving along, I had to fabricate...

















Day jobs make model building go slower, in my experience...


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> Day jobs make model building go slower, in my experience...


Well, then get a _night_ job dummy! Problem solved....

HAL9001-


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Day jobs make model building go slower, in my experience...





hal9001 said:


> Well, then get a _night_ job dummy! Problem solved....
> 
> HAL9001-


 I wish is it was THAT simple!!  I don't have enough time in the day, or night to get all my projects done in a reasonable amount of time.  There just aren't enough hours in the day for me to get all the stuff done that I NEED to desparately so! 

~ Chris​


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oh my, paint tests, lighting tests....
Could I get some 36hr days please?


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

That picture makes me think of 3PO in Empire when he got shot by Stormtroopers. Poor ole B-9, will he _ever_ be the same? Will the mad scientist Chris _ever_ get him back together again? I knew him way back when he was just a *GUNTER*!

HAL9001-


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Can't hardly wait to see an update on this build. I think I'm more anxious to see this robot built than the client !!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just primed it all, still working on extending an LED into the bubble & extending the switch wire into the bottom of the treads...


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

What kind of paint will you be using on this Robot ? Just curious,....


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> What kind of paint will you be using on this Robot ? Just curious,....


Krylon Aluminum matte for body & treads & brush acrylic for the legs all covered with Krylon gloss acrylic then a flat coat on just the leg parts.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I'm not trying to be a pest. And this may seem like a stupid question. But if you don't ask. You don't learn. So here it goes,...... I am assuming that all the paints you are using are acrylics. And I know that my wife uses acrylics to paint ceramics. And that she uses a clear sealer on the ceramics once she is done painting, to ensure that the paint won't wash off. So the question is, do you have to spray a sealer on models of any kind when you use acrylics ???


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> I'm not trying to be a pest. And this may seem like a stupid question. But if you don't ask. You don't learn.


 You're no pest, and asking questions is important.


> I am assuming that all the paints you are using are acrylics.


No, actually, the Krylon aluminum is a typical spray enamel, which will not dry on vinyl, UNLESS it's primed first (most primers work, the cheap stuff at WalMart will do, but always do a little testing on a not-so visible part; I test on the underside of the treads).


> I know that my wife uses acrylics to paint ceramics. And that she uses a clear sealer on the ceramics once she is done painting, to ensure that the paint won't wash off. So the question is, do you have to spray a sealer on models of any kind when you use acrylics ???


I'm using a clear gloss Krylon acrylic strictly to protect the enamel & get a shiny look- if you use just acrylics, it's probably not necessary at all, it's more a question of aesthetics.
And ask all the questions that come to you (seriously), we _all_ have stuff to learn!:thumbsup:


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Thanks a million Chris ! I've got a Masudaya Robot I will be doing in the future. But I'm waiting to see this build completed. I guess you could say that I'm gonna use your build as a tutorial on how to build a Masudaya Robot. Can't wait to see it finished !


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> And ask all the questions that come to you (seriously), we _all_ have stuff to learn!:thumbsup:


What's the meaning of life? Why are we hear? Who are we? 

HAL9001-


----------



## Blufusion (Jan 30, 2010)

Have a idea about the bubble piece. I had some plexiglass cover that were yellowed and I soaked them in OXY Clean and they came out like the were knew. Just a suggestion.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> What's the meaning of life?


 That which we create for ourselves.


> Why are we hear?


 We hear because sound bounces off our eardrums; we're here because two humans had the hots for each other.


> Who are we?


Bits and pieces of stars & planetary dust & DNA spread by explosive escape velocity impacts traveling in frozen rocks.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Blufusion said:


> Have a idea about the bubble piece. I had some plexiglass cover that were yellowed and I soaked them in OXY Clean and they came out like the were knew. Just a suggestion.


Thanks a lot, but I've determined that this particular yellowing is molecular in nature, not simply a surface effect on the plastic. 
However, I not actually a scientist...:lol: I guess it might be worth trying... but I tried hydrogen peroxide for 2 days- nothing.


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> That which we create for ourselves. We hear because sound bounces off our eardrums; we're here because two humans had the hots for each other.Bits and pieces of stars & planetary dust & DNA spread by explosive escape velocity impacts traveling in frozen rocks.


Oh.

HAL9001-


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chris, this may sound crazy, but blue counteracts yellow right? If you had something to test on I wonder if a 'wash' of very, very faint blue airbrushed on would help?

Might could try it with acrylics being it could be washed off?

I _ain't_ no scientist either!

HAL9001-


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> Chris, this may sound crazy, but blue counteracts yellow right? If you had something to test on I wonder if a 'wash' of very, very faint blue airbrushed on would help?


Heh, it would end up green.:tongue:


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> Heh, it would end up green.:tongue:


Well, then maybe a punk robot?

It was just a thought anywho.

HAL9001-


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

hal9001 said:


> What's the meaning of life? Why are we hear? Who are we?
> 
> HAL9001-


We hear because if we didn't we be deaf!! 



DCH10664 said:


> I'm not trying to be a pest. And this may seem like a stupid question. But if you don't ask. You don't learn. So here it goes,...... I am assuming that all the paints you are using are acrylics. And I know that my wife uses acrylics to paint ceramics. And that she uses a clear sealer on the ceramics once she is done painting, to ensure that the paint won't wash off. So the question is, do you have to spray a sealer on models of any kind when you use acrylics ???


 Acrylics DON'T wash off once they've been given enough time - trust me, I know!  I used to think they would wash off, or rub off by handling, but this stuff is very durable. This is the reason that they were formulated from acrylic binder in the first place. I just recently sealed a fountain with this stuff after sealing it before, then spraying a clear coat over it. I didn't use any clear over it the second time, and it the paint didn't come off when it rained. You have to give a few days to cure. A week is best. I've always used a clear sealer in the past, but I decided to try this with nothing over it. I didn't know whether, or not it would work without it. I know now! :thumbsup:



hal9001 said:


> What's the meaning of life? Why are we hear? Who are we?
> 
> HAL9001-





Chrisisall said:


> That which we create for ourselves.


Only so much of that can we create for ourselves - the rest is Gods' fault!


Chrisisall said:


> We hear because sound bounces off our eardrums





Chrisisall said:


> we're here because two humans had the hots for each other.


 Which God put on this earth, but I *DESPARATELY* wish he hadn't!!! 


Chrisisall said:


> Bits and pieces of stars & planetary dust & DNA spread by explosive escape velocity impacts traveling in frozen rocks.


  Now _THAT'S _funny - I don't care who you are!!



hal9001 said:


> Chris, this may sound crazy, but blue counteracts yellow right? If you had something to test on I wonder if a 'wash' of very, very faint blue airbrushed on would help?
> 
> Might could try it with acrylics being it could be washed off?
> 
> ...


PUNK ROCK B9!!! :tongue: I've seen a lot of home made paint jobs out there, but still no PUNK version. Maybe I should get one of these just for the comedic effect.

~ Other Chris​


----------



## paustin0816 (Nov 8, 2006)

hal9001 said:


> That picture makes me think of 3PO in Empire when he got shot by Stormtroopers. Poor ole B-9, will he _ever_ be the same? Will the mad scientist Chris _ever_ get him back together again? I knew him way back when he was just a *GUNTER*!
> 
> HAL9001-


 or even better


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

Now that's an interesting photo! I've never seen this episode, but it came on when I was at work. 

~ Chris​


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Dyonisis said:


> Which God put on this earth, but I *DESPARATELY* wish he hadn't!!!
> ~ Other Chris​


So you _"*DESPARATELY*"_ dislike mankind?  Therefore yourself?

HAL9001-


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

hal9001 said:


> So you _"*DESPARATELY*"_ dislike mankind?  Therefore yourself?
> 
> HAL9001-


I don't dislike mankind, or all of mankind - just their follies as a result of their fall from grace. There are those that I wish ever so desparately never existed.  Either way, it's infinately saddening.......

~ Chris​


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

teslabe, just curious about those bellows you ordered. Did they work out as a usable set of arms for your B9 ???


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DCH10664 said:


> teslabe, just curious about those bellows you ordered. Did they work out as a usable set of arms for your B9 ???


Not so far, but I've not had a chance to really spend any time with them.......


----------



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

So Chris, Where is the project at?


Steve


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

steve123 said:


> So Chris, Where is the project at?


My client just okayed sculpting new leg sections to get that squished first season effect & decrease the overall height by one inch; I'm getting ready to add at least two LED's into the unit Stan provided with resistors to light the bubble 'brain' and I will be so very sad to see this finished & leave my home...


----------



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

So, make with the pictures already....Lol

Steve


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

steve123 said:


> So, make with the pictures already....Lol
> 
> Steve


I agree,....Let's see some pics !!! I can't wait to see how you do this !


----------



## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

steve123 said:


> So, make with the pictures already....Lol
> 
> Steve


  

YEAH! What he said! 

~ Another Chris​


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

O.K. I'm in...*HURRY UP!!!* :beatdeadhorse:

HAL9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I work slow as molassas when it comes to clients- it's my nature. I *must* look before I leap, and in doing so, I make them wait for quality. It's actually like a 'Monk' like compulsion; when I make stuff for ME I move at warp speed.
Is this common, or am I a freak in this way?

In any case, say goodbye to these 'stunt Robot' inspired legs!


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

*Yikes!* Looks like you're gonna turn him into a her with that gun!!! 

HAL9001-


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Can't wait, Chris!


----------



## oshkosh619 (Feb 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I work slow as molassas when it comes to clients- it's my nature. I *must* look before I leap, and in doing so, I make them wait for quality. It's actually like a 'Monk' like compulsion; when I make stuff for ME I move at warp speed.
> Is this common, or am I a freak in this way?
> 
> In any case, say goodbye to these 'stunt Robot' inspired legs!


Ahhhh.... Walther PPK... good choice!! :thumbsup:


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> I work slow as molassas when it comes to clients- it's my nature. I *must* look before I leap, and in doing so, I make them wait for quality. It's actually like a 'Monk' like compulsion; when I make stuff for ME I move at warp speed.
> Is this common, or am I a freak in this way?
> 
> In any case, say goodbye to these 'stunt Robot' inspired legs!


I know what you are talking about. Any kind of work or project I am doing for myself, I will take chances and gamble with it in a heartbeat. But any kind of work I do for others I want it to be just right. And I take my time, and weigh my options carefully.


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

How are your feelings, now that Moebius made their announcement? Does it change your resolve? What are your feeling on the new model? Love to hear your thoughts on all this......


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> How are your feelings, now that Moebius made their announcement? Does it change your resolve?


 Naw, it just means I won't be going through all this accurizing ever again!:thumbsup: I'm done with the really hard parts anyway, the legs are relatively easy, and the lights would be the same on either this one or the Moebius seeing as they are the same scale.


> What are your feeling on the new model? Love to hear your thoughts on all this......


I studied the Moebius photos, and I'm like WOW that's nice. Never imagined an accurate Robot would ever exist without a TON of modification!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

^^^ I'm right with you!


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I like the "body" contour, especially. Keep up the awesome work! This is an interesting thread.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Leg midsection gone, and as with my Robocop vinyl model, a small bit of blood was lost...










Slips with vinyl is way too easy for those with small experience, but salt in the cut accellerates healing.:thumbsup:


----------



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I've told you this before..never let them see you bleed,..and always have an escape route...


Steve


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Any updates on your robot ???


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Been sick with flu, but at least my cut is mostly healed! I'll be back in it in a few days.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I always have hated those xacto knives. I got more scars on my hands, from slips, than I can count. Hope you get to feeling better. And I look forward to seeing your next update.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

My finger is healed, it was deeper than I thought.








Changing the red LED for a white one on the Starling Robot Plug N' Play unit (I love the smell of solder in the morning...)
















Switch installed, extension connected...
























More light masking on the clear chest bit. 









More to come...


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Takes a real man....to admit he owens a plush bunny! 

By chance your real name isn't *Lennie Small* is it? :lol:

HAL9001-


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> Takes a real man....to admit he owens a plush bunny!


 Why you-! 
That's NOT a 'plush bunny', it's a replica of the Last Mimzy!!!
It's waiting for a minor seam repair. Great movie, BTW.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Here's a rough scale test before I actually sculpt the new leg section...


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Mucho better! The blood was worth every drop!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> Mucho better! The blood was worth every drop!


Ain't it just?


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Looking good Chris,....can't wait to see this B9 finished with all the bells and whistles !


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Finally get to the leg section & I run out of epoxy resin....:freak:










To be continued....


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Needs some fine tuning via sanding, but it's coming along...


----------



## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Just call me "Golden Boy".


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

It's looking good !


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> It's looking good !


Thanks...it's getting there. The squishy uneven season 1 look is coming about (test primer):


----------



## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks...it's getting there. The squishy uneven season 1 look is coming about (test primer):


Those legs are really looking great!


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I can tell you have really done your home work, and studied the first season "squishy look". I was just comparing your pic to some season one pics I found online, and you really hit the nail on the head !


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> I can tell you have really done your home work, and studied the first season "squishy look". I was just comparing your pic to some season one pics I found online, and you really hit the nail on the head !


Thanks, I'm fine tuning it a bit, once more with superfine sandpaper should do it.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Legs basically done now, I'm pretty happy with them. Can't wait to see the paint on!










Now it's just a matter of precipitation-less days to paint and installing the light & sound.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Not to insult your own personal robot,.....but looking at them side by side like that, shows just how much Masudaya missed the mark with the legs. Excellant work !!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Shiny.....


----------



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Look at you with your 11k+ hits!

VERY COOL
B9 looks great...excellent work..

Steve


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

steve123 said:


> B9 looks great...excellent work..


Thanks Steve, hope my client thinks so when I'm done in 2 weeks!:thumbsup:


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Are you sure you are going to be able to hand over this gem at all ?? But then again, I doubt your client would believe the robot fell in love with your ipod and ran away ! lol. I know I would have a hard time handing over such a piece.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Are you sure you are going to be able to hand over this gem at all ??


Sure, I have my own. 
But right now the silver bits are taking a Lestoil bath- I didn't like the way the paint dried. Do-over.

Edit to add: Man I love Lestoil!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Out of the bath & drying, tomorrow & re-paint.


----------



## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Dude, it is past the time to put the christmas ornaments away


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Those snowmen are extremely tenacious.:freak:


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> Edit to add: Man I love Lestoil!


And Lestoil....is?

P.S. What ever happened to the Star Trek Phaser thingy? Did it have to go back to the arsenal for refit? Was it stolen? Or did you try to rob a bank with it and are now sitting in an 8X10 room with a room mate named Luca Brasi? 

HAL9001-


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> And Lestoil....is?


 The finest invention for stripping paint (enamel/acrylic/primer) off models ever. Similar to Pine-sol.


> P.S. What ever happened to the Star Trek Phaser thingy?


Waiting for warm weather to mould it- windows have to be open (don't wanna kill my cockatiels), and it's freezing/raining up here...


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> Those snowmen are extremely tenacious.:freak:


I hope they don't have teeth like the Dr. Who my daughter made me watch a few episodes ago.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> I hope they don't have teeth like the Dr. Who my daughter made me watch a few episodes ago.


The weather here is unwarranted. And this is how I define unwarranted:










No, my snowmen will not go away...


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Considering the weather I see in that picture. Your Snowmen won't die,....they will multiply !!!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Considering the weather I see in that picture. Your Snowmen won't die,....they will multiply !!!


I got my hairdryer ready.


Okay, I'm done fooling around with this paint job!


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Well when you are done melting the snowmen into oblivion,...Throw the paint to that bad boy and lets see what he looks like !!!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Liquitex silver acrylic spraypaint applied.


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Looking good ! :thumbsup: Still can't get over how great the legs look. Maybe someday I will get brave enough to try that with my own robot.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The black is done...


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Just curious,....Now that you have a good base coat of acrylic paint. Are you now using enamels ?


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Just curious,....Now that you have a good base coat of acrylic paint. Are you now using enamels ?


I used enamel on the claws as they're regular plastic. I'll be using a bit in the bubble as well, the rest is all acrylic, baby! After the protective clear acrylic over coat, I'll begin to assemble it.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I'm ridiculously happy with how this is going. I only hope my client thinks it's worth the wait.










I'll end up putting a flat coat on the gray leg section, I think.


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Chris, if you're client is in any way, shape or form "unhappy" with this, I'll be glad to take it off his hands! :dude:


----------



## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

From what I am seeing here, there's no way your client can be disappointed with this robot. :thumbsup:


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> The black is done...


Wow! You really be streakin' now....(said in a sarcastic voice)

You've been working on it how long? Chop! Chop! We wanna see it done already. 

HAL9001-


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> You've been working on it how long?


Too long. Real effin' life has intruded heavily, weather even more so of recent.
But it WILL be nice.


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Chrisisall said:


> Too long. Real effin' life has intruded heavily...


Yeah, ain't it the truth! Ain't it the truth....

HAL9001-


----------



## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

What 2 inches of snow?.. please... just fess up, you took the family to Dollyworld..and decided to move to Tennessee.

Steve


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

steve123 said:


> What 2 inches of snow?.. please...


Dude, it's 6 degrees here today, ya think I'm gonna get that clear coat done in THIS weather? No freezin way.:tongue:


----------



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

> _ 6 degrees here today_


I'm whining because it's getting down into the 50's here!


----------



## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

Well we ******** in the *Deep South *are looking at 75-78 come this weekend.
We're whining because we haven't _had _any winter which means the mosquitos are gonna be bad again this summer!

And to keep this on topic, *Mr. B-9* is looking awesome Chris!

HAL9001-


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> We're whining because we haven't _had _any winter which means the mosquitos are gonna be bad again this summer!


 Trade ya!


> And to keep this on topic, *Mr. B-9* is looking awesome Chris!


Thanks, I'm finally on track with this, and I won't enjoy sending it to the client when done...


----------



## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> Trade ya!Thanks, I'm finally on track with this, and I won't enjoy sending it to the client when done...


 
:thumbsup: I don't blaime you one bit, Chris. But would it make you feel better if you had yet another client for another "perfect" conversion? I'd be happy to be next in line! Please PM me via HT. :dude:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I know little about that kind of cold as it pertains to airbrushing. But when it's below 60 degrees here, I soak my rattle cans (apologies to Dyonosis) in warm tap water. But way below freezing? That's gonna shut your modeling world down.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

kdaracal said:


> But way below freezing? That's goona shut your modeling world down.


Tell me aboudit!
If it's at least above freezing, I can run out, paint quick, & run in. Freezing temps just mess with it all way too much. Add wind and it is a verifiable modeler's worst nightmare.
Apart from like, cats knocking over your stuff & getting cathairs stuck in the drying paint...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Above freezing here, got the clear coat on, dried, attached the lower 'windows', next is the clear chest grille...


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Glad to see you survived the weather up there in winter wonder land. And the build is moving forward. Just curious,....what size acrylic rods are you using for his voice light cover ???


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

3mm, but the arctic conditions have *returned!* No matter- the clear coat is on.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Really,Really nice work Chris!!!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain Han Solo said:


> Really,Really nice work Chris!!!


Thanks. Just painted the clear chest plate I casted silver over the black backing.










The additional clear acrylic coat should smooth out the bumps...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Not happy with the lucite rods attached to the grill, so I made a frame for new ones








this has to be good, not just okay.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I'm assuming that the frame will go inside the body of the robot. And that the frame is made of styrene. So what kind of glue will you be using to hold the frame to the vinyl ?? And you mentioned "lucite rods". Are these different from acrylic rods ? And if so, then why is the lucite rods better to use ? Just trying to pick up some tips before I tackle my own.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> I'm assuming that the frame will go inside the body of the robot.


Yes.


> And that the frame is made of styrene. So what kind of glue will you be using to hold the frame to the vinyl ??


 Standard hot glue.Epoxy would also work.


> And you mentioned "lucite rods". Are these different from acrylic rods ? And if so, then why is the lucite rods better to use ?


I actually don't know if lucite & acrylic are different. It's just what I bought.


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## terryr (Feb 11, 2001)

I think lucite is a brand name.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

terryr said:


> I think lucite is a brand name.


Yeah. 
Here's the grill:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

If I didn't know better, I would think it was made of glass. Great work :thumbsup: Are the rods glued to one another ? Or just to the frame you made ? And if the rods are glued to each other,....what kind of glue did you use ??


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

The rods are just glued to the frame; had a devil of a time lining them up correctly, even though it looks simple.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Just glued in & painted the clear chest piece , glued on the collar...


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

It's looking very cool!!

I've been using mostly tamiya spray cans since it's so cold...the silvers look great..and yup, I warm them up in hot water first.

Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

That voice frame looks amazing. Really good work here.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> That voice frame looks amazing. Really good work here.


Thanks...hey, should I paint the two big buttons under the voice frame white?








I mean, so when the light's not on it looks more accurate? But if I paint them, they won't be lit when the light is on...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Thanks...hey, should I paint the two big buttons under the voice frame white?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


With white paint they should still glow with the light on behind them.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> With white paint they should still glow with the light on behind them.


A bit...yes. That's the way I'll go if my client agrees, thanks T!!!


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

Hey Chris, this is Jeff, the guy with the lighted ym-3 that keeps bugging you about paint colors. . I recently painted those white on mine and it looks great! Light still comes thru and looks very authentic. Just need to ensure that coats are even as differing paint thickness shows when lit.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

bogart said:


> Hey Chris, this is Jeff, the guy with the lighted ym-3 that keeps bugging you about paint colors. .


Jeff! Hey buddy! And you weren't bugging me man. Great to see you here! You gonna post pix of YOUR version? Do it here if you don't wanna start your own thread!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Chris the guy I built the P/L B9 for is an LIS author.
one should be clear/white the left one was a very light green.

























Steve


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

steve123 said:


> Chris the guy I built the P/L B9 for is an LIS author.
> one should be clear/white the left one was a very light green.


Steve, does that go for the first season B9 as well? That's hard to see in B&W...:freak::tongue:


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I don't know..I don't have the pics he sent. But he hasn't called yet about how he likes the munster house, I'll ask him then... it's a simple mint green tint, if you had to, you could add it from the outside later.

Steve


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

*My B9*

Hi all,

Per Chris's suggestion, here are some screen caps from a video I posted to youtube (hopefully they work, I've never done this before). I purchased the model on ebay. His legs were already painted and lights were installed. I've done a lot of modification and almost all of it was inspired by Chris's work! I've replaced his mouth plate, and the lights behind it with the orange ones you see that I synced to his speech. All sound is from the "Robot Ramblings" CD. I looped the mechanical background sound so it is constant and then wired the voice files (about 300 of them) to another speaker. 

I painted his silver body last week and his chest light area and powerpack today. Things to do are a repaint of his legs and (this will make Chris happy) modify his claws.

I've learned sooooo much and am pretty happy with a few clever tricks I used for the voice and lights. Each night before I go to sleep and log in here to see progress on Chris's robot as well as great stuff from you all! The youtub link is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=77NWoxTqjHg&feature=youtu.be


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

bogart said:


> and (this will make Chris happy) modify his claws.


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Any progress on Ol' Bubble Head ???


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Any progress on Ol' Bubble Head ???


Getting ready to thread the fibre ops through the holes into the thingamabobs.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Outstanding !!!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

bert model maker said:


> Outstanding !!!


Heh, not yet, but it will be...
Today I bought a separate set of flashing LEDs & more wire for the brain...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Oh bloody Hell, 5mm's don't fit in the dang thing-








Have to get smaller ones tomorrow....:freak:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

3mm white flashers and three red with controller circuits is what I used on mine before I stopped work on it, I'm waiting for the Moebius B-9. Anyone want to buy a couple of Masudayas cheap......


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Most interesting, thanks!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Going a slightly different direction than Tes, drilled out the solid 'lights' on top of the brain and replaced them with acrylic rods rounded & buffed to conduct the inner LED flash.








Got new 3mm LEDs (flashing for center, steady on for 'eyes').


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

teslabe said:


> 3mm white flashers and three red with controller circuits is what I used on mine before I stopped work on it, I'm waiting for the Moebius B-9. Anyone want to buy a couple of Masudayas cheap......


How Cheap ???


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DCH10664 said:


> How Cheap ???


I'm sure for a lot less then what they go for on ebay. Send me a PM and we can talk.....:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> I'm sure for a lot less then what they go for on ebay. Send me a PM and we can talk.....:wave:


I bid 2000 quatloos!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Doing tests for the LEDs & resistors; I think I got them down to less than super bright- pix to come when I have it set.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Chrisisall said:


> I bid 2000 quatloos!


:lol:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

teslabe said:


> I'm sure for a lot less then what they go for on ebay. Send me a PM and we can talk.....:wave:


PM sent.


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

So what Chris, did you get mad at Mr. B-9 and whack you thumb? Why I'll show you robot...*WHACK!!* 

It's such a lovely shade of purple, maybe you should paint him that color?

HAL9001-


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

hal9001 said:


> So what Chris, did you get mad at Mr. B-9 and whack you thumb?


Holy moley, no injury, that's a trick of the flash is all. Thank you for your concern though!:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Getting closer. This will not be a night light however, I'm going for subtle in the lighting. I've seen too many Robots that nearly blind you with the LEDs.


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

Read through the whole thing....great progress!


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> Getting closer. This will not be a night light however, I'm going for subtle in the lighting. I've seen too many Robots that nearly blind you with the LEDs.


If you don't mind me asking,...Just how do you plan to keep the lighting "subtle". By using less lights, or not as bright a light ? Obviously you can tell that all my knowledge of electronics would safely fit inside of Dr. Smith's heart. (If he had one)

On another note, I agree with you totally. I've seen way too many B-9's, J2's and other models way over lighted. And in many cases,(IMO) the lighting seemed to take away from an otherwise great build. As with the B-9 and J2, the lighting is suppose to be part of the background in the overall picture. Not in your face and making you reach for your sun glasses.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> If you don't mind me asking,...Just how do you plan to keep the lighting "subtle". By using less lights, or not as bright a light ? Obviously you can tell that all my knowledge of electronics would safely fit inside of Dr. Smith's heart. (If he had one)


Well mainly, I'm not using a seperate LED for every single individual light- it's all being backlit against clear resin & acrylic- all except the 'eye' lights in the bubble, and those I'm dulcoating the clear styrene in front of. Hopefully it will work out well, we'll know by this time next week, or sooner now. Pictures asap.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Ok, thanks. I understand what you mean. And as you know, I got those same clear resin parts. So I'm interested in seeing how you install and light the chest panel.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> I'm interested in seeing how you install and light the chest panel.


I am too.:tongue:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Brain closed up & drying:










Attached to the core:


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Dude... this is awesome. Been lurking a while just wanted to let you know! Excellent work can't WAIT 'til he's finished!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

whiskeyrat said:


> Excellent work can't WAIT 'til he's finished!


My client would agree with you; he's been a patient dude.:freak:

So, here I found that the epoxy had infiltrated the switch, making it useless. So I pryed it off very soon after gluing (glad I test the wiring after each step!):








New switch, a tad bigger








THIS time I cut the hole just a *little* too small so that it 'snaps' in








Bubble spot glued with Zapit








And epoxied onto the stem









BTW, I've learned that twisting wires together is NOT a guarantee of a good electrical connection; you MUST solder.

More SOON.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Setting up the electronics for solid installation- it's on a styrene platform that'll be hot-glued into the bottom of the torso...


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I do not know if you have already mentioned this board before in the thread. Did you design and build it?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I do not know if you have already mentioned this board before in the thread. Did you design and build it?


No, I have Stan at *Starling Technologies* to thank for this baby:
http://www.starling-tech.com/index1.php?id=b9
It's designed for the smaller Polar lights Robot, but it comes with an easily identifiable + & - set of leads you can connect additional LEDs to (if you're good at picking resistors & soldering). A few extras are needed for a Robot of this magnitude!:thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Glued in the battery-holder, and preparing the placement of talk switch (cleverly concealed as the power pack):


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> No, I have Stan at *Starling Technologies* to thank for this baby:
> http://www.starling-tech.com/index1.php?id=b9
> It's designed for the smaller Polar lights Robot, but it comes with an easily identifiable + & - set of leads you can connect additional LEDs to (if you're good at picking resistors & soldering). A few extras are needed for a Robot of this magnitude!:thumbsup:


Great link, thanks! I suppose this lighting kit will be appropriated to the new Moebius Robot too, right?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Great link, thanks! I suppose this lighting kit will be appropriated to the new Moebius Robot too, right?


If I make one it surely will! :thumbsup:


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

Amazing! Chris, how did you make all the holes in the brain? A drill?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

bogart said:


> Amazing! Chris, how did you make all the holes in the brain? A drill?


Faith, heart & skill. 

Sorry. Went Highlander there for a second. 

Standard Exacto knife _used_ as a drill.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chris, I have a Masudaya Robot in the box waiting to be built (next decade, maybe). I'm curious about your decision to put the battery inside. Is it easy to acess the holder in order to change it?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Chris, I have a Masudaya Robot in the box waiting to be built (next decade, maybe). I'm curious about your decision to put the battery inside. Is it easy to acess the holder in order to change it?


Yeah, not too hard, you just twist the body a bit & it comes apart. Only hard part is that if you let it sit a while it sticks a little. And of course you have to be careful not to yank a wire loose when the two halves are apart... but it beats having the Robot on an electrical leash!:thumbsup:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

OK, did I miss something here ??? I see the chest panel is in place, but missed the part on how it got installed. Do I have to wait for the book to be published on this build to find out ?


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

Here is a pic I took of the inside of my B9 (hope this works. I'm on my tablet). You can see how it comes apart. I purchased it pre-wired and frankly the wiring is a bit of a mess (tho it works well). Cleaning it up has taught me so much and the guy who built it has some great skills to learn from (just not wire management  . The white box is the battery compartment. 

Chris, please oh please continue this incredible documentation and take lots of pics of the final product. This will be the mother of all B9s!!!!!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

bogart said:


> Chris, please oh please continue this incredible documentation and take lots of pics of the final product. This will be the mother of all B9s!!!!!


Toggle switch there on yours! Old school: I love it!:thumbsup:
Here are a couple more pix from a few moments ago:


































Positioning the LED in the big acrylic rod to light the talky-chest light was hunt n' peck, hot glued the sound systen in back, put the arms back in, but [email protected]!&%!! pulled a wire out, and I'll have to solder it back to the [email protected]!#&!!!
I'm done for tonight. But it's REAL close now!!!:wave:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> OK, did I miss something here ??? I see the chest panel is in place, but missed the part on how it got installed.


Sorry man, which chest panel; the acrylic rod light-up, or the clear resin recast of the front buttons section? 
I'm not as good as Steve Neill at documenting my work!:lol:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

The button panel.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> The button panel.


Okay, I just had the space to fill after I cut it out & recast it in clear resin...








Then took the finished piece & hot-glued it in.








It was a tight fit, so a little paint filled in the visable seams.:thumbsup:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Thanks alot. I appreciate it. Any preferred brand of hot glue ???


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Thanks alot. I appreciate it. Any preferred brand of hot glue ???


They're all pretty much the same, just be sure the surfaces are clear of dust or skin oils, and rough them up a bit with some light sanding with course paper (but not on the parts to be shined-through, obviously).


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

More pix of the wiring, this is it folks, almost done! Also, when I closed it all up, I realized you COULDN'T HEAR ANYTHING!!! D'OH! I forgot to leave openings for sound! Hence the last photo in this post.

































I gotta paint black to hide the holes, glue the 'ears' on, and it's done. Final pix tomorrow.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

If you could have foreseen this problem before positioning the speaker, where would you put it? Is there a better place?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> If you could have foreseen this problem before positioning the speaker, where would you put it? Is there a better place?


A little higher up, nearer to the new holes I just made, but where it is is pretty close- in fact I had to watch my blade so I didn't cut into it!


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

Holy crap Batman! What will I do with my time when you're done? This will call for a YouTube posting as we're gonna need to have motion AND sound....


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

bogart said:


> Holy crap Batman! What will I do with my time when you're done? This will call for a YouTube posting as we're gonna need to have motion AND sound....


I know how you feel. This thread started on 5/29/2012, and I've been following it since day one. Chris has pretty much wrote the Bible of how to make the most accurate Masudaya YM-3 Robot possible. And I'm hoping for a video as well. Now I wonder if Chris will finish the PL J2 project thread I was following ??? And I'm pretty sure we can all look forward to his build of the new Moebius B9 robot model, when it comes out.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> Chris has pretty much wrote the Bible of how to make the most accurate Masudaya YM-3 Robot possible.


IF that's true in any way, it's only because Teslabe decided not to REALLY show us how to do it. 

Here it is:


















































The actuator & reset buttons are in the power pack. I'll see if I can get some kind of video up soon, I just ASSUMED my camera had a video [email protected]#!&[email protected]%!


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

IMO it IS true. This is definately the most accurate season one Masudaya B9 I have ever seen. Your client should be thrilled. And you should be very proud to have built it. I appreciate you documenting this build as you have. I've learned alot that will help me when I get around to doing my own.

As for Teslabe,he is quite skilled, and talented. And I was hoping he might come up with a way to do the arms correctly.

Again, Great Job !! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Now, THAT is a great job!! The power pack is a very smart solution, because it combines a practical convenience to a "real" functional characteristic of our Robot. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> As for Teslabe,he is quite skilled, and talented. And I was hoping he might come up with a way to do the arms correctly.


Oh, I came up with a way, I just didn't DO it because you need to cut the armsockets out & reposition them deeper & at an angle in the torso, THEN (and this was the negative part for _me_) trash the claw cuffs & make new ones about 4-5mm smaller in diameter!!! Tes would have done it, but they announced the Moebius model...

Plus, all that torso work cuts into electrical space.

My pictures don't show all the lovely subtle blinking on my client's Robot.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> My pictures don't show all the lovely subtle blinking on my client's Robot.


That's why we are waiting for your video.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Now, THAT is a great job!! The power pack is a very smart solution, because it combines a practical convenience to a "real" functional characteristic of our Robot. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks!
And I cannot stress ENOUGH how much I owe to Stan at Starling Technologies for making this work, or Steve123 for pushing me to consider it.

I'll try to get a video up asap.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> That's why we are waiting for your video.


Let's see if this works...


Click on it to view, I guess!


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

Simply amazing... I sorta don't know what to say. Given the amount of enjoyment that your work brings me, I can't imagine the amount of satisfaction it must give you. I could sit and look at him for hours.

That's it. I've decided that you can't sell. We can all think of a story. I'll distract your client. You dress the robot as an old woman and sneak him out the door. What could go wrong? ;-)


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

bogart said:


> We can all think of a story. I'll distract your client. You dress the robot as an old woman and sneak him out the door. What could go wrong? ;-)


Dress him up as a big scarecrow maybe.?... ahhh, it's been done before....


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> IF that's true in any way, it's only because Teslabe decided not to REALLY show us how to do it.


Sorry, but I think you did an amazing job on both of your kits and should be very proud of the out come.....:thumbsup:
I was so frustrated with all the inaccuracies and warpage in the vinyl parts, as soon as I heard Moebius is doing the old boy, I lost all interest in the Masudaya B-9. I have four on preorder, can't wait.....


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

teslabe said:


> I have four on preorder, can't wait.....


Four? Three would be one for each season... is the fourth gonna be the bad Robot from Anti-Matter Man?


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

Chrisisall said:


> Oh, I came up with a way, I just didn't DO it because you need to cut the armsockets out & reposition them deeper & at an angle in the torso, THEN (and this was the negative part for _me_) trash the claw cuffs & make new ones about 4-5mm smaller in diameter!!! Tes would have done it, but they announced the Moebius model...
> 
> Plus, all that torso work cuts into electrical space.
> 
> My pictures don't show all the lovely subtle blinking on my client's Robot.


I could actually live without the lights and such, if I can get the arms in the stowed position and have it look right. I'm wanting a season one with stowed arms, and squishy legs bad. But at this time, I doubt I have the skills to make the cuffs and legs. 

But since I now have three of the Masudaya YM-3's, I plan on putting one back for when I feel I have the skills to tackle the job.
BTW, thanks for posting the video. You really have created a work of art. And the lights look perfect !! Not blinding and "in your face" as I have seen so many others.

I also noticed you said you used "Zapit" to tack down the clear bubble head. So I'm assuming this stuff won't fog up the clear plastic like some other glues do ???


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> I also noticed you said you used "Zapit" to tack down the clear bubble head. So I'm assuming this stuff won't fog up the clear plastic like some other glues do ???


If you keep it to the seam & don't drip, it's invisible.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

The Robot (to Chrisisall):
*"My micromechanism thanks you, my computer tapes thank you, and I thank you."*

Dr. Zachary Smith: 
*"Ahh. Now then my dear friend. I should like to hear a brief, but compelling statement on the sterling character of one Zachary Smith."*

The Robot: 
*"Does not compute."*

Well done Chris!


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Well done Chris!


Thanks man. I pack it up tonight... there could be tears.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chrisisall said:


> If you keep it to the seam & don't drip, it's invisible.


I tried to google out the "Zapit" glue, but found this "Zap-a-Gap". Are both the same brand and "Zapit" an especific type in the products line? 

I would appreciate some information, because as you know I have constant problems glueing clear plastic.


----------



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I tried to google out the "Zapit" glue, but found this "Zap-a-Gap". Are both the same brand and "Zapit" an especific type in the products line?


Yikes! I just looked, it IS Zap-a-gap!


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

That one?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> That one?


Poly-zap looks good! I'm currently using Zap-a-gap though. Good stuff/company.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

One last video:

Click on it to play.
And thanks again to everyone here for your generous support & ideas & comments!!

Next up: getting that gorram Trek V/VI phaser moulded, cast & finished!


----------



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Chris

Congratulations!! Amazing job. Reference to everyone who intend to build Masudaya (and, soon, Moebius) Robot.

You may have experiencing that special feeling of mission accomplished. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Fernando Mureb said:


> You may have experiencing that special feeling of mission accomplished.


More like post-partum depression...
He's off to his owner now.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I just *had* to fix up my own Robot a bit after that... new chest talk grid using leftovers from my client's build. The flash makes it look lit!!


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## bogart (Mar 12, 2004)

I'm having withdrawals. Build another one, quickly!!!!!


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

bogart said:


> I'm having withdrawals. Build another one, quickly!!!!!


I know just how you feel. I've been following this build since day one. And now it's done and gone. This sucks !!! (Geez, do I need to get a life or what ?) But hopefully when the Moebius B9 comes out, Chris will be building it. And I'm interested in seeing what twists Teslabe might put on that model as well.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

DCH10664 said:


> I know just how you feel. I've been following this build since day one. And now it's done and gone. This sucks !!! (Geez, do I need to get a life or what ?) But hopefully when the Moebius B9 comes out, Chris will be building it. And I'm interested in seeing what twists Teslabe might put on that model as well.


You never said if you were happy with what you bought from me, have you done anything with them yet?????:wave:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

teslabe said:


> You never said if you were happy with what you bought from me, have you done anything with them yet?????:wave:


Actually I'm more than just happy. I already had one. And was wanting another one, so that I can do a season one and season two. The one that has been untouched is going to be a gift to my cousin.
He's actually more like a brother to me. And he's been wanting one of the Masudayas for the longest time. But couldn't afford the going Ebay prices. So when his birthday comes here in 2 months, he's going to be very surprised.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

DCH10664 said:


> So when his birthday comes here in 2 months, he's going to be very surprised.


You're giving the gift that keeps on _warning_! :thumbsup:
My client said he was surprised that the lighis blinked in the brain and that you couldn't see it on the video. Anyway, it's nice he likes it. I kept thinking it could have been better, but almost nothing I ever do turns out to be what I consider 'perfect'.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

WOW!!! This came out great!

Thanks for posting all this.

Mike.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

crowe-t said:


> WOW!!! This came out great!


Thanks Mike. I kind of amazed my own self with it.
If only I could have mechanized the arms & treads....:freak:


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## model-ologist (Mar 9, 2014)

Im a big fan of the Season One silver claw and chest B9... just looks right if ya know what I mean.


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## model-ologist (Mar 9, 2014)

*Robot Ears...*

Does anyone have any ideas on making the sensors rotate? 
That would be the ultimate B9 robot Nacho's ah?


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

*Belly Lights and Fiber Optics*

Chris,

Did you attach fiber optics to the belly lights? The belly lights are the 12 dome shaped multi-colored lights at the bottom of the torso. 

Thanks,
Gene


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Genos said:


> Chris,
> 
> Did you attach fiber optics to the belly lights? The belly lights are the 12 dome shaped multi-colored lights at the bottom of the torso.


No Gene, I just carefully positioned the lights from the Starling kit in back of the clear pieces I made.


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

Chris,

Did you decide not to use the included fiber optics with the Starling kit because the structure/bracing in the torso would have interferred with the lowest level of belly lights? The bottom row of belly lights is real close to the bottom of the clear chest plate. 

I have cut away most of the chest plate in that area but I'm considering leaving a small portion at that bottom. I would then have to mount the clear chest plate a little higher. To do this I would also have to sand down the top of the clear chest plate to fit into the area. I'm thinking this would enable the fiber optics clear the bracing. I just wanted to get your opinion. 

Gene


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Genos said:


> Did you decide not to use the included fiber optics with the Starling kit because the structure/bracing in the torso would have interferred with the lowest level of belly lights? The bottom row of belly lights is real close to the bottom of the clear chest plate.


Hey Gene, that clear part looks familiar... did you get that from ME?

Anyway, I kind of cheated with that- I bent 1 LED upright to use to light the FO that went to the finger lights in the bubble, the other three directly light the lower belly lights. I made a platform for the whole mess that I hot glued to the bottom of the torso just in front. I dug up these pix for ya:


























Can you see clearly what I did there?

I was just going for the brightest solution I could think of; using FO was an option, but I really wanted those buttons to pop.


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

Chris,

You are absolutely correct! I bought the clear parts from you and they are what make the project worthwhile.  

I was thinking the decision to skip the fiber optics was a fitment thing. I never considered that it was brightness issue. Did you experiment on a spare chest plate with the fiber optics to check the brightness?

Thank you,
Gene


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Genos said:


> I was thinking the decision to skip the fiber optics was a fitment thing. I never considered that it was brightness issue. Did you experiment on a spare chest plate with the fiber optics to check the brightness?


I kinda held one end of one up to the clear piece & just concluded that it wasn't gonna work for me, but then I see Steve123 do it really successfully in the Moebius thread, so any which way you can make it work, man!:thumbsup:


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

I also held up a strand of fiber optics to the back of one of the belly lights on the chest plate and it appeared bright. I believe I used a 1mm fiber strand. Stan included both 1mm and 0.5mm fiber in my kit. I then cut an opening into the back of the belly light using an Xacto knife and I again inserted a fiber strand into the opening. The quality of the light improved. It appeared to really illuminate the entire dome of the belly light with no hot spots. I painted the opening using Tamiya Clear Red (X27) and let it dry. I then re-inserted the fiber strand into the painted opening and it looked great! So for me, I definitely want to use fiber optics for the belly lights. 

My dilemma is whether I will have a fitment issue with the bracing in the torso and the bottom row of belly lights. I would prefer to install the chest plate the way you did because the bottom seam is hidden when the upper torso is attached to the lower torso. See your bottom picture post #366. If I leave the bottom of the chest plate intact (to the same width as the bracing) and then shorten the clear part to fit, I then create a seam on the front of the robot. That new seam would be right next to the lowest row of belly lights. What to do??? 

Gene


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Gene, sorry, but I'm missing the problem... the clear piece should just fit there with minor sanding to adjust for a quarter mm here or there, like it did with mine.... can you send some more detailed pictures?


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

>>> "Gene, sorry, but I'm missing the problem... the clear piece should just fit there with minor sanding to adjust for a quarter mm here or there, like it did with mine.... can you send some more detailed pictures?"

Chris,

I'm not sure if there a problem or not. Based on the fact that you decided not to install the kit fiber optics, I was originally thinking that you had determined that there was a fitment issue. Anyways, the potential issue isn't fitting the clear chest plate into the torso. The potential problem is fitting fiber optics into the bottom row of belly lights. Basically, it looks like the bracing in the torso might interfere with installing fiber optics into the back of the clear chest plate but only for the bottom row of belly lights, the top row should be fine. See post #365. 

Gene


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Genos said:


> The potential problem is fitting fiber optics into the bottom row of belly lights.


Oh, there's no problem there. We all have free model-making will installed in us by our creator. We are models who make models. Of models. Heh heh.


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## Genos (Mar 1, 2013)

I think the attached drawing should illustrate the potential fitment issue with the internal bracing and the installation of fiber optics in the bottom row of the belly lights.

If I get the time this weekend, I need to muster the courage to trim away the last 2% of chest plate from the torso and fit the clear chest plate in. Then I will know whether there is an issue or not. I'm such a beginner at this that I keep thinking I'm going to mess things up.

Gene


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

If you're going with FO, there should be no problem at all IMO. The torso bracing didn't block my lighting, and I straight lit it.


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