# Building my first work bench and could use some pointers



## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I recently moved into a house which has a larger, and fully insulated, garage with enough space for me to have a hobby workbench. I'm going to be building a workbench that is 6ft in length and likely 24-36 inches deep. However, as this is my first workbench, I'm not sure what I should consider. It will be built near an outlet, so I'll have access to power (great for lighting and a radio/laptop). Also, it will be built in front of a pegboard wall, so I can have ample shelving. 

My hobbies include: building my Trek kits (I'm planning on finally building my first 350 E this coming fall/winter). I also have a couple of old battery-powered Tamiya RC cars that I'm planning on restoring. Not really in to any other hobbies, although I do have blueprints to some day scratch build a model of the HMS Hood, at 1/144 scale (for model warship combat, a hobby I've long wanted to get involved in.) 

So, I guess I'm wondering what all those of you with hobby workbenches took into account when you built yours. What do you love about your workbench? What do you regret not including in it? What should every workbench have? What should ever workbench NOT have?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Make sure you have lots of good lighting. Overhead flourescent, desk top lamps, etc. Lots of shelves for putting stuff away. Consider a power strip for your outlet. Hooks to hang your Dremel and airbrush.

At work, an area or office, can be classified as 5S. That simply means that everything in that space has its own designated space. My office is classified as 5S. That means, for example, my stapler is always in the same labeled spot, same with my tape, phone, camera, etc. Design your space with where you want to have stuff and so it is easily accessable.


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## jfleisher (Sep 5, 2002)

*My Workbench*

Here are a few pictures of my workbench. I recently added fluorescent lighting to make things brighter.

http://ogreminiatures.blogspot.com/2010/06/ogre-infantry-painting.html


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Here is a pic of my workbench. Got it at Menards. As a matter of fac I have two of them with a roll around tool box between them. Plenty of lighting and space.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

I also just got a new place with more room for dedicated workspace. I learned a lot of lessons working in the old space and I also made a neat discovery about configuring a good workbench.

Be sure to make your work area safe and comfortable. The most important things are (in order), good VENTILATION and good lighting. If you're using fluorescent tubes, get some UV sleeve filters. I had installed 400W of fluorescent lights in the old garage because the walls were dark brown and it took a LOT of light just so I could see to work. As a result, something surprising happened -- I ended up with a bad sunburn in the middle of Winter! It turns out, these lights crank out dangerous UV-B rays that cause DNA damage and maybe even skin cancer. They also cause eye strain and may damage your eyes over time. UV filters are expensive, but they not only reduce damaging rays a good 99%, they also cause a color shift effect that turns cold fluorescent light into something more resembling daylight. 

To make your lighting more efficient, paint your entire work area bright white. When I did this, it made a really huge difference. I am not kidding, I needed 5 hanging fixtures in my old work area with two 40W 4-ft T-12 tubes in each one. That was 10 tubes to light my shop area and make it bright enough to work. In my new space, I have just *one* 4-foot fixture with two T-8 bulbs. Thanks to the white paint, the new space is almost as bright as the old one.

Now to the workbench: For years, I used a banquet table 30 X 96 inches as a work surface. Since I originally used it as a computer desk, I had cut down the legs to place the work surface 26 inches off the floor. This was too low for a hobby bench, so I placed a 24 X 48 banquet table top on the larger table using short pieces of scrap 2X4 as risers. 

This created a dual-level work area. It was never a design feature, it just sort of happened that way by accident. Over time, I found this to be the single most useful feature I had ever encountered in a workbench. I could place all my tools, etc. on the lower level which extended up underneath the main work surface. It was very convenient for keeping everything within easy reach, yet not directly on the main work surface where things would get in my way.

I enjoyed the ergonomics of this approach so much, I intend to design this feature into any custom workbench I build in the future.

One last tip: The height of the bench can be very important. Ergonomic standards dictate a height of 29-30 inches for a desk if you are going to be seated while you are working. This would be a perfect height if you plan to sit on something like an office steno chair. Many workbenches are 36 inches tall as this is the standard height for kitchen counters. That can be ideal if you plan to work while standing. It all depends on how tall you are -- adjust the height up or down to find a comfortable work height while standing at the bench. A typical range might be 34-42 inches. You can also work at a taller bench while sitting down, you'll just need a shop stool rather than a normal chair. Many stools are adjustable in height. A drafting stool would be ideal for this task.


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## USS Atlantis (Feb 23, 2008)

Drawer units are almost a must for organizing - 

http://scc7107.wordpress.com/2011/01/02/a-clean-work-area-is-a-happy-work-area/


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Just cleaned mine up:

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r259/Trekriffic/Romulan Bird of Prey/IMG_0521.jpg

Nothing too fancy, just my old drafting table. The main thing is to have good lighting and a power strip. I have an overhead fluorescent strip and a magnifier desk lamp. I have a 6 drawer rolling cart to the left of the table that holds all my supplies and paints. You can see the flexi-shaft attached to my dremel hanging to the right. My dremel hangs from a hook on the side of a cabinet over the washtub making it just right for working with at the workbench. I have a shelf up high overhead displaying my 1/2500 fleet; wish I had more shelves for supplies though. The main drawback for me is it's not a very big table; but, it'll have to do unitl I get a house with a bigger garage someday.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

One trick I'm about to add to my workbench (an old L-shaped computer desk) is a keyboard drawer. Right now I've got one of those rubber keyboards and a wicked old mouse that I connect to my netbook which I put on an old CRT stand above my work area. That takes up too much space and the rubber keyboard has a horrible feel and is basically worthless.

I'll put a cheap keyboard in the drawer so it'll always be accessible, but out of the way. (And being cheap I don't have to worry about spilling paint into it - the reason I bought the rubber one.)

Totally agree on the lighting and light colors for the walls. I used sponge painted white and medium gray. That way I didn't have to do too much prep to the walls to cover up all of the thumbtack holes from the previous owner's son.

Watch out on the pegboard for holding shelves. Pegboard's not really made for shelving because of weight restrictions. 

I got a bunch of slatwall and gridwall for free (slatwall from a Marshall's that was redecorating, and the gridwall from a client that was moving to a smaller office). The gridwall is super-easy to mount and will take major weight - it also has a kajillion different attachments (as does slatwall, but I prefer the gridwall).

Gridwall: http://www.bsiri.com/category/755/ $20 for a 2'x6' panel, though you'll also need mounts at $1.50 each, plus accessories (shelves, hooks, baskets, etc.).
Slatwall: http://www.bsiri.com/category/742/


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

maybe the most basic thing? Make SURE the table is flat and level. 

Lots and lots of lighting. Maybe even several kinds of light, like a make-up mirror uses. Light to build by, color-stable light to paint by, that sort of thing. 

Outlets. A couple of power strips would be useful. There's always something that needs a plug and you've got them all in use.

storage storage storage. It's really nice to know that when you need that one specific knife or that file it's THERE and not shuffling around a toolbox. 

Might be worthwhile to make a paint booth while you're at it. I mean, as long as you're setting aside space. 

A good vice is useful. 

Oh, a good chair! A good ergonomic chair. 

A small 'dorm room' refrig. might be nice so you can keep something drinkable to hand.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

I like modular components on wheels so the bench can be pulled apart for massive cleaning sessions and re-arranged over time as you develop your workflow. Fixing oneself to static, solid pieces means future limitations, less flexibility. 

Lighting is certainly a top priority. Several power strips and extension cords rigged throughout for maximum electrical versatility is what I also like.

Ventilation! This is more important than lights. No point in great lighting if all it's gonna do is show you collapsed-brain-dead on the ground from chemical asphyxiation. Right?

...
Having moved into my new apartment this very day, I'll be rebuilding my bench over the coming weeks in a new, though tried-and-true way. New space, new configurations to explore!

PS. Since I'm in an apartment, an extra layer of carpet monster underneath the gear to catch small parts, and more importantly, stray drops of glue and blobs of paint! Don't wanna pay to replace the landlord's carpet, better to get a cheap-o brand carpet piece and ruin that. But being in a garage, you might be all set. However, garage floors can be cold and pieces do bounce away better on bare concrete...


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

I bought a 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" ply and had it ripped to 24" which gave me a huge L shaped workbench. 2"x4" framework and legs. Very comfy office chair with the arms removed. 2 4' flourescent lamps and a task light with 100 watt Reveal bulb. Don't forget a spraybooth. Mine is a 2' cube out of MDF with a blower motor exhaust to the greater outdoors. AND TUNES!!! I use classical for long sessions and Lynkin Park to kick butt.
Model on, dude.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Messy,but it works.Had it made special.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

I suggest for lighting you add a solartube to the garage. It adds a ton of day light in the garage with the doors closed, and can be mounted so the room opening is above your bench, and in most locations get half the cost paid by tax credits..

hthttp://www.solatube.com/residential/what-is-daylighting/index.phptp://


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

These are all great ideas! We are renting the house so, unfortunately, a paint booth with exhaust through the outside wall is not an option (although, the landlord is also a hobbyist and he was going to install an exhaust fan at one time, which he left here at the house, so who knows!) I love the idea of having a magnetic strip for house tools. Seems very practical. Lighting won't be an issue. There are two unused florescent tube lights in the garage, one of which I plan on putting above the workbench. I also have any of several desk lamps I could pick from.

Someone mentioned have a mini-fridge. Got that beat...we have a spare, full-sized fridge we use for a beverage and egg (we have chickens) cooler. About the only thing I won't be able to do is a paint booth but, I'm in a garage and I can just as easily throw the garage door open and set up a card table for airbrushing (which is what I've done in the past anyways!) 

My biggest hurdle at this point is trying to decide one crucial design element: the height of the work space. I'm used to working with a desk-height space, but at the same time I like the idea of having a work space sit higher for those times I feel like standing. So many options!


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Standing is a great idea. How about making it standing height, but with a drafting stool for the times when you feel like sitting?


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## CLBrown (Sep 8, 2010)

There are several things to bear in mind if doing a workbench for fine work...

1) You need a replaceable top surface. This is CRUCIAL... because, sooner or later, you'll end up gouging it, burning it, getting glue on it, etc. The top surface will last a couple of years of heavy use, but if you get a bench where the top surface can easily be replaced, you'll be much better off. I recommend something in the range of 1/4 to 1/8" thick, clamped on the edges. Clamping can be done with aluminum extrusion and set-screws from above and/or below. Pretty easy, and it will make a big difference... knowing that you'll be almost incapable of DESTROYING your workbench.

2) Along with that, you should pick the aluminum extrusion carefully... there is material out there which is specifically designed for this purpose, but you can do just as well with material intended for window frames and the like, and that will likely be less costly. HOWEVER... make sure that it isn't very wide, but that it provides a "lip" around the edge of your bench. This is very important for "model bench" work, and for electronics-bench work as well... imagine all the time you'll save, not having to chase down parts which roll off the bench top! I swear by this feature... trust me, you'll be thanking me later!

You can get basic "c-shaped" extrusion lots of places, but here's one example...

http://www.extrude-a-trim.com/catalogue.asp

I used their FR-3006 Aluminum "F-channel" on the sides, which gives me a full 1/2" high "lip" on my bench sides, totally eliminating "edge roll-off." I have 3/4" plywood for my top "foundation" with a layer of 1/4" smooth finish fine particle board for my top surface.

I used C-channel on the front (because that's where I work). I have a slight backwards tilt on the top surface, just enough to ensure that anything that rolls, rolls towards the back (which is totally blocked by a long power strip).

I recommend a "power strip" running the length of the back of the bench (with fuse protection obviously). You can never have too many plug-in options. I used this... the exact model isn't available anymore, but you can find similar items...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_3801-46-GAAC68PSPG_4294932516+4294964195_40?productId=3125161

I did mine entirely from scratch, but you can go as "custom" as you want or as "off the shelf" as you want. For some intermediate level, you can buy something like this... 

http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=Tt7lTfDECpGWtweQ4_DkCg&ved=0CFkQ8gIwAQ

If you're not looking to build, on your own, you can try something like this... more pricey than a home-made setup, but it's very stable and you can't go wrong with it really. If you were going to go this route, though, I'd still use this as a "foundation" and expand on it. And realize, you're going to marr up that top surface if you leave it as-is...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00959431000P?mv=rr&i_cntr=1306909967517

I recommend putting it at a reasonable height, with a work stool... so you can work both standing or sitting. Most commercial workbenches are at the proper height, so you can gauge from that. The stool should be cushioned, not hard... not unless you want to suffer prostate issues from long working sessions!

Basically, you can either pay a lot to buy a pre-made unit, or you can build exactly what you want if you're even a little bit handy with a drill and know the whole thing about "measure twice, cut once" (which any modeler should never forget!)

But if you go "home-made, custom" you can pretty much make it whatever you want.

In any case... those two issues... marring of the top surface, and items rolling off... are the two things that I'd be thinking about which you might not think of initially.

Oh, and if money is absolutely no object as far as you're concerned... a lot of businesses use stuff from places like this:

http://www.workplacesystemsinc.com/


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