# No Spark



## rogerac (Oct 31, 2012)

Poulan model sm30sb, serial 103478100596. No spark. New Plug,works in another unit, new coil, switch checks good, unhooked switch wire too still no spark. Magnet seems strong. Any other thing to check?


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## usmcgrunt (Sep 16, 2007)

Did you disconnect the the kill wire from the coil to test and adjust the gap between the coil and flywheel with a business card (.010-.012)?


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## rogerac (Oct 31, 2012)

I did disconect the wire and used a card to set the air gap. I read that the magnet was good if it would support a 1/4 inch screw driver.


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## nolaman (Jun 27, 2013)

*Poulan Pro Blower BVM200VS (type 1)*

I know the original thread on this topic is quite old, but wanted to share my recent experience with this unit, which included concerns of: no spark, fuel coming out of muffler when cranking--and initially did not have fuel lines run. Bought used and broken at a good price. 
1st, you'll know if you have the type 1 VS type 2 easily by the shape of your air filter. Type 1 is a rectangular foam filter (with the top corner notched out) where as the Type 2 has a round filter.
I have to say, I've taken old broken small engines and brought them back to life several times, but this unit gave me a run for my money. 
*Fuel Lines:* I started off with getting one size (the larger of the 2 on the unit) simply because I didn't notice the 2 different sized holes in the tank as I had just bought it 10 minutes prior. I ended up going to Lowes and getting their fuel lines that come with both sizes in container. Tried getting fuel line diagram from Poulan customer support, and they gave me the wrong one--with no email response for getting correct one--so had to use common sense. Larger of the 2 lines gets the fuel filter, and is installed on the port NOT going into the primer bulb. The smaller goes to bulb. I put a new fuel filter on, and made sure both lines rest at the most lowest point in the tank. 
After installing lines, and fueling, noticed the primer bulb wasn't pulling quite as much fuel in as it should. This signified a carburetor problem. 
*Carburetor:* I've always been able to clean the carbs on small engines and resolve a multitude of issues from being left over winter with fuel inside, age related etc. So this is what I initially tried, simply cleaning. made sure the fuel line ports flowed freely (have to take off primer bulb on that side). Noticed the diaphragm on the one side--that looked stretched in a little--but tried reusing it after cleaning. Note: the needle seat section of this carb is particularly delicate (poor design in my opinion) so beware. Nonetheless, it wouldn't crank after putting back together. The primer bulb started getting gas but that was the only improvement. Noticed gas coming out of muffler worse, then couldn't pull on starter rope as locked up. Took of plug: head & crank case full of gas. This meant the carb was letting in to much fuel (the diaphragm) Due to this design, and cost to replace entire carb ($35.00) I just replaced. You might want to try getting the rebuild kit for about $18.00 and replace the diaphragm, primer bulb and gaskets--at minimum--but comparing the cost of the kit and the new "perfect" carb, it was a no brainer for me. It would have started here, but I had a spark issue also.
*Spark issue:* Took off plug, put back into ignition module wire connector while outside of head, and pulled several times to see visual signs of sparking. No visible spark. bought 2 new Bosch plugs. 1st new plug didn't spark. 2nd new plug didn't spark. Took off casing and noticed ignition module magneto had signs of wear and rust. Re-gapped with business card, tried with both new plugs, no spark--I even held the plug in one hand while pulling starter cord. No dice. 
Got new ignition module for about $25.00, gapped with credit card, same thing: no spark on both new plugs. dislocated the kill switch lines from ignition module to rule that out. No change. Also tested kill switch lines with voltage meter to make sure they were working properly. Inspected flywheel, seemed ok, which sent me to the only possibly remaining issue: the gap. Pulled it a tad closer to flywheel--than the spec: business card--no spark while holding plug in hand and cranking. Readjusted to a little further away--than spec: business card--and this worked only on 1 of the 2 new plugs! (buy 2 new plugs if you have to do this, to be sure its not the plug also). Sweet victory to hear it crank and run.

*Side spark notes:* if you do all above and still have a spark issue, take off muffler and inspect the spark arrestor screen for clogging. You can keep muffler off and try to crank to rule that out. Also while muffler out, clean exhaust port on head while piston is at bottom--farthest away from plug--to help keep trash falling into cylinder. wipe clean with rag or blow out with compressed air. Pull starter cord a few times to pop out any remaining debri. 

*OVERALL SIDE NOTES* I learned my 1st lesson on taking junkers and bringing them back to life with this unit. Do your research online to see what types of reviews people are saying about it before taking it on. This unit is a very poor design from casing, to carburetor, carb mounting bolts come loose, head bolts notorious for coming loose--allowing air leak and running lean and not able to run long--etc etc etc. The throttle linkage from trigger to carb can only be removed and put back on by setting into trigger, feed through throttle lever on carb, hold carb to gasket, while putting carb bolts in, keeping all the same and lining up bolts thru carb, gasket and finally into head. pain in the bass.
If you own one, I say go ahead and give it your time. So long as you are aware of the costs associated with the repair parts, VS the cost of the new one (around $100.00) Don't do what I did, take a used one for $15.00, and spend about $65.00 in the end to revive it.


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## pawandmaw (Jul 15, 2013)

Did you check to see if there is a short on the cut off wire?? the cut off kills all spark.
Good luck 
paw


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