# hard start after rebuild



## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

ok have a 24cc craftsman leafblower rebuilt the carb (walbro wa 228 a) had a guy set the metering lever put it together hard start but it started today its cold it wont it start pull the cord stumbles for a couple of seconds but wont run....where do i go from here? is it the metering lever or something else?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Possible compression problem. If the compression is too low, it will be hard to start and when you get it started, may not want to carry a load. It is also possible that the carburetor is set too lean, will it run if the choke is partially closed??


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## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

had it running tuesday ran ok but went to start it yesterday and....wont runn with the choke open or closed , im just trying to rig up a compression gauge to test it, it will start but just enuff to make a little smoke while im pulling the rope


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

yes I'd agree also, test the compression, should be atleast over 100..

90 is the bare minimum.


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## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

ok tested compresion 3 pulls 100 psi so it should run right! it has to be a carb problem is it possible the metering level is off would that affect the way it starts ...i gotta get this thing running the leaves r falling big time now...lol


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

If your unit has a reed valve, then that could be a problem. Check for any obstruction preventing the reed plate from closing all the way, this will cause it not to start and act like you described. If your unit does not have a reed plate, then I would look at the carburetor again.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

What model blower is it? I can give you some common things to look for if I know the model number.


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## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

ok im not sure what a reed valve is so can u elaborate and it is a craftsman model c 944.517740 now i emailed sears cause this doesnt come up on there website so they said it was a model c 944.517741 but that model on their site was is not exactly the same so this is what i know....lol


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

If your carburetor mounts to the cylinder as the one on the sears diagram then you do not have a reed valve. Reed valve models have the carburetor mounted to the crankcase.


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## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

ok it does mount to the cylinder, so no reed valve so has to be the carb right, could the metering valve be out....i put my finger over the hole in the choke plate and get gas on my finger as i try to start it.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I would suspect an air leak, check for loose bolts holding the insulator on and make sure all the gaskets and seals are all right where the carburetor mounts. Also check the the cylinder assembly make sure it's tight and the mounting screws are not loose. 

I have had a few of these type blowers that had the key sheared out of the flywheel and they were out of time and would not start.


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## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

how would i know if its out of time other then taking it all apart again ?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The only way I know is to remove the flywheel and inspect the key!


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Look for loose cylinder bolts and/or loose carb bolts. Just grab hold of the air filter cover and see if you can move it. It may move slightly because of the rubber mounts but it shouldn't move much... you can also take off the muffler cover and look at the cylinder/crankcase mounting area to see if it is moving. That is the most common problem for this model.

If you see black fuel residue on the cylinder/crankcase or on the outside of the housing by the carb, it is a good sign that it is leaking in those areas.


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## uncleglenny (Oct 26, 2006)

ok tore it right down today the key is broke off the flywheel ...how do u fix a flywheel that has the key cast right into it ?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You would just have to replace it. I think they run around $18.00 - $20.00


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

The keys on the molded in models are not there to actually hold the flywheel in place but for ease of assembly. You can put the old flywheel back on if you are careful. Just put a mark on the side crankshaft where the key slot is. On the top of the flywheel there should be a mark where the key is. Line this up with the mark you put on the crankshaft and reassemble without the recoil on the unit. Tighten it down real good... we use a small butterfly impact wrench.

You can now take off the impeller and spacer to see if the flywheel is still where it is suppose to be. You will notice the flywheel will not move because it was forced down on the crankshaft taper. If all is good reassemble and have a go at it.

As a note, one of the problems with these blowers is that you can not fully tighten down the nut on the impeller so the flywheel does not get fully pressed on the taper. You can tell this after you tighten the nut and the impeller will still move a bit on the crankshaft. If this is the case you can use an additional washer under the nut.


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