# Painting with acrylics



## goofygriff (Jan 18, 2013)

Just got an airbrush and have been playing with it, but soo much to learn. Fast question, I have been playing with the acrylic paints, but the problem is the paint does not 'harden'. After it dries, it can be easily scraped off. Is this the nature of acrylic paint or is there some tricks you would like to share? I have only been using enamels, this is a new world for me.


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## fire91bird (Feb 3, 2008)

If you are using Testor acrylics, the model must be primed first or it has a tendency to flake off. Priming is more important with acrylics, in my experience.


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

fire91bird said:


> If you are using Testor acrylics, the model must be primed first or it has a tendency to flake off. Priming is more important with acrylics, in my experience.


Could not agree more. Testors acrylics need to be painted over a good primer or they will not adhere well, especially if you are to do any masking. I typically use Testors lacquer white primer in a spray can. Do not use the Testors acrylic primer since this does not adhere to plastic very well.


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## goofygriff (Jan 18, 2013)

Thanks for the quick responses, I really appreciate it. I will give the laquer primer a try and will let you know how it worked out.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Last year I discovered the exact same problem decided to do a little experiment, I bushed some future floor polish onto a piece and after it had dried I then brushed on some Testors MM acrilyc paint and it STUCK to the plastic!!! So now I simply airbrush future first onto what ever I'm gonna paint.


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## Paper Hollywood (Nov 2, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> Last year I discovered the exact same problem decided to do a little experiment, I bushed some future floor polish onto a piece and after it had dried I then brushed on some Testors MM acrylic paint and it STUCK to the plastic!!! So now I simply airbrush future first onto what ever I'm gonna paint.


This is good information. I've heard for years that Future was a good/economical clear finish for polymer clay and what you say about using it before acrylic paint makes sense. I'm going to pick some up soon. BTW, this product has undergone a slight name change and is now sold as "Pledge With Future Shine".


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Interested in Future? http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html


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## dreadnaught726 (Feb 5, 2011)

irishtrek said:


> Last year I discovered the exact same problem decided to do a little experiment, I bushed some future floor polish onto a piece and after it had dried I then brushed on some Testors MM acrilyc paint and it STUCK to the plastic!!! So now I simply airbrush future first onto what ever I'm gonna paint.


If you use Future as a base for acrylic, make sure the piece is clean and free of mold release agent before applying the Future to bare plastic. Either wash with dish detergent (Dawn is the best) or wipe down with 70% iso alcohol. If you use alcohol, do not go over areas that are puttied with Squadron, it will dissolve it.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

PH, I'm already aware it went through a name change.
DN I always clean my kits with liquid dish soap.
Thanks any way guys!!:thumbsup:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

For car bodies I often use a real primer anyway like Testors fine white... it gives a good base for the color coats. Many acrylics do need a primer.


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## Bullitt3980 (Nov 29, 2011)

I thin Tamyia flats with rubbing alcohol to about 50% to spray--lay on light coats and allow to flash off. If its something Im going to decal I Future the surface and then use a dullcoat after. Now when it comes to car bodies I use Tamyia white primer--it dries very smooth and won't change the topcoats shade. Remember if your primer is full of orange peel your topcoat won't fill it in. Every layer has to be smooth to have a contest quality paintjob. When I use gloss topcoats I aways use the manufactuers thinner. I try to read other modellers experiences but the best thing to do is use a scrap body and experiment


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