# Lubrication Viscosity: Is More Better?



## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

It is human nature to believe that “if some is good, more is better”. I guess that depends on the application. In the1:1 world, high viscosity and “cling” qualities have their place, i.e.; gearboxes, differentials, linear bearing race-ways, etc, etc. Yes, “cling is king”. However, even in 1:1 applications especially where tolerances are “close”, you have to think “thin-film”. Before I retired, I learned this “hands-on” when building huge turbine-style air compressors for the Joy Company. The impellers which turned 60,000 rpm were loaded into close-tolerance bearings and lubrication was best achieved by pumping in a thin film of oil to fill the small gap between the bearings and impeller shafts. Now human nature says, “wouldn’t thicker be better”? No, not at 60,000 rpm. Nowadays, even car manufacturers employ the same principle. Your oil is now 5w-20/30. Granted, the5w spec makes cold starting easier but the real reason behind the lighter weight is to reduce drag. “Capice”? 

When working with slot cars, you have to think the same way. “Lighter viscosity, less drag”. After all, you’re only working with a little motor. Gooping-up lube areas with thick, clingy stuff don’t git it. It may seem good but in reality, it just makes more work for your little motor.

Light and slippery films are the way to go in all lube areas of a slot car, regardless of scale. AeroCar lubes are designed and manufactured to do just that. Check out the “Triple-Pak” of lubes which covers motors, bearings, and gears. All their lubes are designed to be light weight for minimal drag.

http://www.slotcarexpress.com/Chemicals---Supplies.html


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## SpiderRPM (Nov 2, 2011)

Agreed. I look at a slot car motor as if it were life size. I wouldn't use an 
entire container of assembly lube when throwing a new cam shaft into my
car...or use a half quart of oil to prep a gasket. 

regular light lubing and a tiny drop of oil in key spots each time I run one of
my cars seems to be perfect.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Your assuming your working with a pressurized lubrication system,where you have a constant oil pressure that keeps things in a constant state of limbo,or float if you want.
No pressurized oiling on a slotcar.
In such a case,i would think oil cling becomes a bigger factor,as there's no reserve or even captured oil on a slotcar(ie"a sealed bearing).
Got a lot of s'perience running the higher end R/O and up style slotcars,and never really liked super light oils,just my take on things from my experiences over the years,but what the T-jet crowd likes i don't know

If you ever want to figure out your inline slotcars average RPM,i posted the formula a few years back here,might surprise you what a slotcar turns for RPM.
The formula's in here along with a bunch of other crap,lol

Check out Rocky's old numbers off the drag cars,almost a 135,000 RPM

http://ho-tips.net/showthread.php?tid=1062


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

No assumptions, We all realize slot cars don't have pressurized lube systems (that would be pretty cool if they did), but the "intended" point is, higher viscosity lubes can cause drag. Sealed bearings are "sealed" and need no lube. They just get replaced. Can you jam something "thick" in a tight space and expect it to get in or even stay? Just curious. If its a large space or "open" race-way, okay thick and clingy is good. JMO. I guess it's all personal preference and different schools of thought will always cause debate.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Never ran into what i'd call a precision fit on a slotcar,except if you run roller bearings,arm bushings are usually a little sloppy,same with any hole through plastic that a rotating part rides in.
And even on bearings i prefer something with a little cling,they're an open bearing with nothing to contain any of the oil except it's ability to cling to high RPM rotating parts.
But hey run whatever suits your fancy,and gets the job done,we're not really dealing with precision toys here,so whatever floats your bearing run:thumbsup::wave:

What a high end magnet car needs and a T-jet are probably 2 differant oils anyways,the mag car is gonna be subject to higher load factors on it's rotating components


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

FWIW, I mix up my own lube for my slotcars, and think it's close to what the old aurora(Red) Racing oil was.
I mix up a small bottle of one part Mobil One 20w50(total Synthetic) Motorcycle Oil, with one part Dextron II ATF, and one part Petroleum Jelly(Vaseline), and blend together. The result seems to be clingie and yet penetrating, and the 20w50 synth seems to protect at high temps and high RPM's. Anyway, thats just MY recipe which has worked well for the past 11 years on H.O. slots- both inline and pancake.
PS- I apply this thick lube, with the tip of a very fine point hobby paint brush, it seems easy to get the lube where I want, by just dabbing a dot in the area it's needed.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Good to know that the hobby product manufacturers and sponsors of this forum who work very hard to develop new technologies can count on your support.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

I wondered about this as well and did some testing.

Some top t-jet guys sell their various oils (very thin), and some guys make their on. (mine is a thick mix).

without fail, when i put a thin oiled car on the dyno it was close to top speed right away.

My thick combo would slow the car(s) down. but after a few minutes the car would back to its top speed.

but letting a car run for a long time the thick stuff would keep the car going faster longer.

So I use both, thick for pre race prep and thin if for some reason I had to oil during a race


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

BTW

Sirslotsalot
I should be ordering from u pretty soon
I do want to test it out!

BTW
where in upstate are you?
I am in the Rochester area
headed to springville (south of buffalo) in the morning for some racing


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Khim ,i think you got the wrong impression.
I'm just stating what my findings are from my experiences.
And for the cars i run,your reconmendations aren't quite up to my expections,but i think your reconmendations are probably okay for the T-jet style cars,where you're horsepower limited.
The loads and heat encountered in the higher end style cars,usually limits you to something slightly thicker with a cling factor.
And you want'a know something,i bet you could argue this point all day long,and when it comes down to a laptime test,there's probably not gonna be a big differance in what style oil you use,as long as you got something for lubrication:thumbsup:.
I think if you've got 10 slot racers together in a room,you're gonna have 10 differant opinions on oil:thumbsup::wave:.
My theory has always been,run what you like,and what works for you
Rick

Hey have you sent any of your stuff up to Tsooko (Ted)
I'd give your stuff a try on my cars,if your interested in sending any up here.
I'm still curious about your com drops,never been a believer in them,but i'm open to change


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## 2.8powerranger (Dec 13, 2004)

having all bronze bushings would be the way to go i would think, Is it bronze that has kind of self lubricating properties.Just a thought.


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## 2.8powerranger (Dec 13, 2004)

check these out guys! possibilities abound !
http://www.hobbyparts.com.au/store/partslist/bushesbronzesinteredflanged/plainbearings/wide/1/


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

Did some dry testing on bushings as well LOL

easy to say i use scale engineering's blue bushings


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Yes, Yes, Bronze (Oilite) bushings are way cool if you can find them small enough for HO applications. Have not looked yet but I'm sure they exist. Plain Oilite bushings have a somewhat porous inside surface to retain lubricants. That's why they work very well. I'm also experimenting with polymer bearings for 1/43 scale. No lube required with polymers.

Hornet, I respect what you are doing at your Neo end of the spectrum. It's all about meeting one's own expectations. A lot of us (me included) are just home racers here, looking to have some fun and make some improvements to our box-stock cars.

Slotking, Please check your PM's

BTW, I'll be sending Ted a goodies package soon.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Has anybody ever tried using any of the magnet car oilite/sintered bronze style bushings.
They'd probably need some reworking:thumbsup:

Back in the days when we still ran sintered bronze bushings,we used to boil them in Slick 50,was never sure it did as much as we thought it should though.
The mess and smell i'm not sure was worth it,lol:wave:


Let me know what you're sending north Khim,
Ted's due down at my place when he's feeling a little healthier,so i might try your stuff out if he brings some down with him.
Your com drops intrigue me,and i'm not usually intrigued by snake oil concoctions ,lol:thumbsup::wave:
Rick


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Hornet,

This is special snake oil extracted from very rare carnivorous Monty Python snakes found in the tropic regions of Mungamba and the UK. It takes a long time to hunt them down as they are almost recluse in nature. Sometimes you don't see them until they bite you and perhaps tear off some of your appendages. Sorry to say we've lost a few crew members on the last expedition but our oil yield was good. I plan to send Ted something in the next couple of weeks.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

Viscosity is not as important as film strentgh. A very light weight full synthetic will have a very high film strength and provide better lubrication than a thick conventional oil of lesser film strength. Grab some 0W-20 Mobil1 or Royal Purple full synthetic oil and only use enough to leave a film on the rotating shaft. Do NOT fill the hole with excess oil. It does not help. In fact, it slows the car down spinning the excess oil. I make my own T-Jet oil from full synthetic stock and a 1oz oiler will last for several years. I can run a 12-hour T-Jet enduro without needing to oil.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Couldn't agree more on film strength. Excellent point. If you consider the very small space between the axle and hole, it would be tough to get anything thick in that space (unless you disassemble), let alone get it to stay. As soon as you insert the axle back into the hole, it shoves everything out. Same for "snap-in" axles as well. Thin-film lubes with staying power have my vote. JMHO.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Tell you what Khim,send me some of your stuff,and i'll give it a test for you.
I run a pretty tight test set-up,"Track" temp is always maintained at the same temp,basically i get rid of as many varibles as possible.
If your product works,i'll sure post it for you,but on the other hand,if it's not up to par,i'll also post that fact.
If you're up to subjecting your product's to my testing,i'll give them a honest test.
Rick


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

I'll include some in Ted's "goodies" package.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I'll forewarn you,i'm a rough tester,i don't pull no punches,and i'm brutally honest.
If you want an honest comparision of your tires to Nick's tires,throw some of your taller versions in the bag.
I run nothing but Supertires,and i'll give you a comparision test of tires too,if you want
Rick


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Rick,

Like I tell everyone, I tried Supertires and yes, because they use harder compounds, they hold up well and may be more appropriate for cars with EXTREME down-force magnets and subject to high impact crashes like you run.

I run plastic track with modified box-stock cars. I found Supertires to loose their grip quickly no matter how diligently I worked to keep the track clean. I then switched to PVT's that use a softer compound and found their grip more to my liking. Because I grow tired of the frequent cleaning between races that is inherent with silicone of any brand, I switched to urethane. They grip very well and do not retain dust & debris like silicone. The tallest urethane tire I have is .450"(mounted) on a .275" dia rim if that works for you.

When you evaluate, I'm sure you will observe that all things are "application dependent" and should be judged in their proper realm. Not all playing fields are level. I don't tout my products as "one size fits all" either.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I run 300 diameter hubs,so they should be spot-on for my spec cars.
What are they like to true with a Hudy Tire Truer,can't be any worse then Nick's tires,i hope,lol
I'll test them on my tricked out Storm Extreme Spec cars,so the cars aren't a real hot set-up,but i think they'll be a good car to test them on.
The cars run poly motor mags,36 Spinners,7T steel pinions,22T silicone bronze crowns,salt and pepper Slottech Bigfeet brushes,a combo of a thin BSRT front bearing and a Wizzard wide flanged rear bearing,no sanding on any of the cars,independent front ends,mags are in stock Storm Extreme locations.
The track you know about.

The oil your up against is my mix of Slick 50,Amsoil 75/90 Synthetic Gear Lube,and MotorPrep Engine components prelube.

I don't have a bottle of Slick 50 in front of me but i do have a bottle of the other 2,and i'll give you what they say on the bottles.

Amsoil 75/90:It's unique synthetic formulation virtually eliminates "cold weather drag",and it's -60F pour point allows quicker start-ups,improved fuel economy,easier shifting.
It is also ideal for high ambient temperatures,reducing friction,heat and wear.
It is extremely "shear" stable and won't change viscosity when subjected to the extreme shearing forces of hypoid differentials.
The shear strength is probably the same as film strength as Larry mentioned, that's my interpretation of shear strength,correct me if i'm wrong

The Amsoil oil is very thin and pour-able at -30,that one i know from experience.

Off the MotorPrep bottle:increases the load carrying capacity of engine oil to prevent galling and scuffing.
Apply liberally to surfaces requiring pre-lubrication prior to oil circulation
Reconmended for use on camshafts,lifters,rocker arms,pushrod tips,valve stems,engine bearings and timing components,and it's a pretty Red colour,lol

Those 2 and Slick 50 are mixed basically in equal parts,and then put into a pin-point oiler.

So that's what you're up against for oil.
Rick


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Amsoil's claims are quite dazzling especially for 1:1 automotive applications, perhaps "overkill" for a little toy slot car. Good sales pitch I must admit.

Goot Gawt Allmitee!!! I don't plans on racin' no slot cars outdoors at anywhaya from -30 to -60F. Who in hell do?? LOL!!


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Don't crash they get a little brittle below -30:thumbsup:
That's a warm day up here,lol.
The worst thing is keeping the fingers moving without freezing to the controller,lol.

LOL,i wasn't really giving it a sales pitch,just reading the bottle,:thumbsup:

But i have noticed a reduction in bearing failures after adding it to the mix a few years back.
Rick


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## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

Ok now I'm curious. Why would you use automotive gear lube on a slot car? I'm not trying to be smart about it just trying to understand the reasoning.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

The Amsoil stuff is relatively thin,and is a full synthetic.
It's not like an ordinary 75/90 Mineral based lube that's Gorilla snot thick,this stuff is almost like water compared to normal gear lube
With the reasoning it'd have some staying power,is basically why i tried it.
But ever since i started adding it to my mix,i haven't had a bearing go south,where-as it used be i'd be lucky to get a season out of a bearing before it started to get rough.
Now i have bearings that are close to 5 yrs old,and they're still smooth.:thumbsup:
So that's why i kinda like the stuff,but that's only my personal opinion

And no i ain't an Amsoil salesman,i only got one bottle and i hoard it,lol


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## TGM2054 (May 14, 2011)

OK I understand. I know what your talking about with the full synthetic, thats what I run in my 1/1 drag car, the motor and the rear end.(Royal Purple, not Amsoil though) I like the stuff for that application.(expensive as all get out though) Since I just collect and drag race my slotcars I probably don't have the same problems with my cars. It's always good to hear what others do, ya never know what you'll learn. Oh, I didn't figure you were an Amsoil salesman, I don't sell Royal Purple either.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

That was one of the reasons i decided to give it a whirl on my slotcars,ran the stuff in a basically stock 9" Ford diff,stuffed under a 11 sec street car,and never had any bearing problems.
I've never had much to do with Royal Purple's gear lube,but it's probably along the same lines.
Is it thin and runny in comparision to normal gear oils.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Another additive i've been seriously thinking about is Z-Max.
Has anybody tried adding it to their secret ilixers

http://www.zmax.com/why/benefits/


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

yep...


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,i'm taking it,that you approve of the stuff then:thumbsup:.
I've been thinking about trying it for awhile,and i think you just sold me on it,lol:thumbsup:

As one of the resident chemists,what's your take on my mix of oils Larry.
Rick


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Found this article on oils,figured it might interest a few other guys too.







Valvoline is a great oil,,, but I'm not fond of STP and prefer DuPont teflon gas treatment in my hi-perf engines instead,,,
Here is the run down on multi viscosity oil,,, for interest sake, if nothing else.
Multi viscosity oils work like this,,, Polymers are added to a light base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C (212 Fahrenheit),,, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-viscosity oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would, when hot. 
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils,,, BUT, they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter,,, in the summer,,, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can "shear" and "burn" forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems!!! 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers(synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. IT IS THE OIL THAT LUBRICATES,,, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. 
Very few manufacturers recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread,,, but because it starts with a heavier base, it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Other multigrade synthetics may not use VI improvers either. The full literature that's available from oil companies, should include this information. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle. 
Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil, that keeps your bearings "happy"... These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown. 
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendancy for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. 
Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers,,, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F. 
% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil is reacted with sulfuric acid and burned. This is used to quantify the amount of metallic antiwear and detergent additives in the oil. Zinc dithiophosphate is a common detergent and antiwear additive that is reflected in this test. 
% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti-wear additive... The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those with high revving, blower or turbo charged cars or inboard boats,,, might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection,,, BUT, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. 

Food for thought.


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

*You asked...*



Hornet said:


> LOL,i'm taking it,that you approve of the stuff then:thumbsup:.
> I've been thinking about trying it for awhile,and i think you just sold me on it,lol:thumbsup:
> 
> As one of the resident chemists,what's your take on my mix of oils Larry.
> Rick


Rick,

My take is: I think you are losing a significant amount of performance because your base oils are too thick. My base stock is 0W oil. (It pours like water.) It is full synthetic and has a film strength that is awesome.

I only put the Z-Max in my top plate oil mix for T-Jets (brass gears). I use this same oil on the motors of my inline cars that have brass motor bushings. (I use four different LT formulated lubricants on my T-Jets.  )

Warning: A problem with full synthetic lubricants is that the slightest film on your comm and you are dead in the water. The first 'additive' I grab is one to allow current to flow to the brushes. I know, I know, the easiest solution is to not over-oil around the comm. 

Background: I was fortunate enough to become aquainted with the chief engineer that created Mobil1 and then have several discussions at the tribology level on what I needed most to get the absolute best performance possible out of my slot cars, from a lubrication standpoint. Bottom line was very simple - get the absolute lowest viscosity full synthic you can get your hands on and the reason is simple - these little critters have very little horsepower, so don't waste any slinging oil. Everything builds from there.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Thanks Larry.
So something maybe along the lines of a 0-30W Mobile synthetic ,should be my base stock,instead of the gear oil.
Up here it's usually not to hard to find 0 Weight synthetic's so that one should an easy change.
I've ran into synthetic's migration problems towards heat.It is a very good isolater,lol
What about soaking bearings and steel pinions/silicon bronze crown gears in "Z-max",i've been seriously wondering if they'd benefit from sitting in a small amount of it for awhile before even using them.
Although now that i'm looking for the stuff,it's not as easy to find as i thought,
Thanks for your advice ,it's muchly appreciated
Rick


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

Here is a great site on oils of all type, mainly geared towards full size cars etc, but the same products mentioned in previous posts

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Boosted


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## tossedman (Mar 19, 2006)

Rick explains his snake oil here.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Thanks Boosted that's a wicked site.
Found a few pages of comments on it's forum about Zmax,man there's just as many negatives as there is positives about the stuff by the looks of it.
Didn't know it was a mineral based product.

Thanks for the video post Todd.
Larry and Kihm,i don't know if my shake test is appropriate,but the Amsoil stuff is very thin,not quite water thin,but not much thicker either.
Rick


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

Rick,

I like the way you are headed with the 0-30W base. Royal Purple makes a 0-9W that is a fav for many Pro Stock racers.


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## ajd350 (Sep 18, 2005)

I can buy a lot of little bottles of Free Jet and LAB for what that row of bottles cost.....LOL


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,how right you are:wave:


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

*Yes you can...*



ajd350 said:


> I can buy a lot of little bottles of Free Jet and LAB for what that row of bottles cost.....LOL


You certainly can buy a lot of Free Jet for what a bottle of Royal Purple costs, and you get what you pay for. :thumbsup:


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

*Slot Car Express- Products review....*

Although off topic so to speak, from the Original Topic. I did want to comment on the other* Slot Car Express- lube and cleaning items that Kihm sells. Well....it's been over a week or so, since I started using his lubes and track cleaner, and all I have to say is- they Work as Described ! The track cleaner cleans and conditions my rails and plastic track just fine. The gear lube appears to work fine on my Pancakes and my Inline Car gears, tho I cannot tell much dif from my own lube blend that I concocted. The bearing lube appears to work fine on all my cars as well, tho again, I still cannot tell if it works any better than my own homemade lube brew. Now we come to the "Conducta Motor Comm Drops".....and I'll admit, I've never used anything else before on my comm or brushes, and was a little leery about lubing these parts. But fear NOT, they are safe with this product, and I can honestly state, that I noticed an increase in performance when using these drops, and that's amazing ! I kid you not, that stuff makes my cars smoother and pull harder under acceleration- Woohoo !
Now to the SCE Tires, and all I've used have been the Urethane Tuff Ones size for T-Jets. But I really- Really Love the traction from these tires, and I find them to be(IMHO) the best Slip-On Tuffy tires that are commercially sold :thumbsup: !
(Note to Khlm, I gotta get me some more of these SCE-UTJ tires for some of my other cars, as these tires -Rock!)


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Ralph,

Glad you enjoy the products. Seeing noticeable improvements to the cars is the most "fun" part of the hobby for me. Especially with T-Jets, the brushes and comm are the "heart & soul" of that car. I remember working on T-Jets when I was a kid and having to clean the brushes and comm frequently to maintain good performance. Wish I had Conducta comm drops back then to reduce the amount of "down-time" on the cars. Hey, it's never too late. LOL!! The good stuff is here now.

BTW, I'll have a taller "drag-version" rear tire in urethane very soon. It is designed for a .275"dia hub with a mounted o.d. of .455". P/N SCE-UTT.


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## neorules (Oct 20, 2006)

I think conducta lube is a conductive oil, I would not consider them comm drops although technically that is what you can do with it.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Well, being that it's called "Conducta", Hmmmm...yes, it's conductive. It is a fluid designed and advertised specifically to be used on comms and brushes. Call it "oil", "lube", whatever. Unlike most "comm drops" on the market that just strip the surfaces, Conducta takes it another step and lubricates the surfaces.


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## basement racer (Jan 22, 2010)

*Tires/comm drops*

:thumbsup::thumbsup: 
I have also used the tires & think they are great.I WILL be getting more for my other cars.
I could tell the difference in how much smoother my Mega G ran after using the comm lube as well.
Keep up the great work Sir.:wave:
BR


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