# Pegasus Martian War Machine



## John A (Mar 5, 2009)

Hi All, I just recevied the Pegasus Martian War Machine (1/48 scale model). Considering the price ($20) at Cultman I think the detail is great. The plastic has a shinny finish. I wonder if I should first prime the plastic before applying the finish color? Can anyone advise?


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

welcome!

yes, primer is always a good idea.

Wash the parts first! Can't stress that enough! Use mild detergent (average dish soap will do but nothing with hand moisturizers or any of that feminine crap) and allow to air dry.

Then you should be good to go!


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Also, use a fine sandpaper on the slick plastic. Something like 600-800-1000-1500 wet sandpaper from a hardware store is ideal. This will allow the primer to stick into the sanding grooves of the plastic.

Otherwise, if you're using masking tape on the model for painting lines or whatever, there's a chance the tape will peel both the paint and primer from right off the plastic. I had that happen to many model cars.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Congrats on getting you MWM. Here's a bit of advice after you paint it. Make sure you have the three clear pieces for the bottom lined up perfectly before pushing them in place. If they are off just a little bit, they wont seat all the way, and it's a pain in the ^$$ to get them back out!


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## GKvfx (May 30, 2008)

Having just finished one, I can attest to the softness of the plastic. Be careful using heavy grit sandpaper, it will leave deep scratches that will be hard to remove. (I used Zap a Gap glue to fill the seam, and got a bit to enthusiastic with the sandpaper. The sanding took longer than the building/painting of the kit.)

My recommendations - 

Use a putty on the seam. Might take a couple of passes as the stuff shrinks. 

Don't use any sandpaper stronger than 400 grit.

Once the seam is smoothed, follow up on the entire surface with 600 then 1500 grit sandpaper, using a lot of water.

I primed it using Tamiya fine gray primer (from the can). That too was wet sanded with 1500 grit (but lightly) - you don't want to remove all of it.

Tamiya Gloss black (from a can) was applied next. When dry, that was wet sanded with 8000 grit paper.

The copper color was applied using an airbrush and Alclad Copper. Used almost the entire bottle.

That finish was lightly wet sanded with the 8000 grit paper, and then polished up with some rubbing compound.

Though it sounds like a lot of work, I still got this thing done in about a weekend. Having a warm room to cure the paints helps. The Tamiya sprays are not cheap (nor is the Alclad), but it is worth it.

Here's the thread with the results: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=245334

Gene


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## Hooty (Mar 4, 2000)

GKvfx---Thanks for posting your info! I, too, have recently bought this kit and was wondering how I was going to do it. The sandpaper info is really appreciated.

Hooty:wave:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

A word about lighting preparation (if you are planning to do so): mask both inside and outside of the flat "facing surfaces" inside the three lenses and the three bottom lights before primering & painting.
IMHO, this kit really begs to be lit up.


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

I got it on thursday.............I could'nt wait! I just had to see it in copper!!


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

The hardest part of this kit for me was painting clouds on the base! I suck at painting clouds! Great builds so far.:wave:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

What was the other movie that used the WotW ship as an alien craft. It might not have had the cobra neck fitted?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

That was Robinson Crusoe on Mars.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robinson_Crusoe_on_Mars


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## John A (Mar 5, 2009)

As you can guess I am new to modeling. I cannot thank you all enough for the advise on how to proceed with sanding/priming/painting this fine model. Your feedback is most appreciated.


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## X15-A2 (Jan 21, 2004)

Although it seems like a logical assumption, the alien machines in RCoM were not the same props used in "War of the Worlds" even though they were similar in general outline. The RCoM versions were smaller (about 24 inches across), made of wood and the belly contours were changed. The original "War of the Worlds" war machines were made of copper and were 48 inches from tip to tip.


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

I did none of that,just sprayed Tamiya Copper over the bare plastic.I did prep it for lights..........


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## GKvfx (May 30, 2008)

falcon49xxx said:


> I did none of that,just sprayed Tamiya Copper over the bare plastic.I did prep it for lights..........



Hey Alex,

What's the grain/finish like on the Tamiya Copper spray paint? I love their products (worth the money, in my opinion), but I was also anxious to try some Alclad. I was very satisfied with the results - quick dry time, durable finish, and fine grain.......

Gene


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

Hi Gene,If you thin it out with Tamiya thinner,it is very smooth.Not quite the finish you got,with all your fine prep work,but nice enough.I just needed to see it in copper,the natural plastic was not doing it for me..........Oh,I stuck it in the oven for about a half hour,the pilot light heat was enough to dry the paint faster.


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

I love my Martian War Machine!now for the base........


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## mcdougall (Oct 28, 2007)

WOW that looks so cool :thumbsup: 
I love the Copper look...excellent!
Mcdee


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## John A (Mar 5, 2009)

falcon49xxx said:


> I got it on thursday.............I could'nt wait! I just had to see it in copper!!


So far it looks good. This particular war machine design has alway been my favorite. It is so sleek and beautiful and looks like it can come from another world.


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## John A (Mar 5, 2009)

This may be after the fact but I think using a small piece of sea sponge would give the soft cloud effect. I have painted walls using this kind of sponge and you can get very fluffy, soft cloud effects rather than using a brush.


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

I was thinking of making a paper mask and holding it just above for that feathered edge look.


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## John A (Mar 5, 2009)

Thank you for letting me know. I am sure I also would have tried to push them in the wrong way and then become frustrated in trying to wedge them out without scratching the bottom hull surface.


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## razorwyre1 (Jan 28, 2004)

anybody given any thought to the strange moving patterns that appeared on the ship's underside? its subtle, but distinctive enough that they tried to duplicate it for the tv series. im thinking of adding a bit of gold to the bronze color for that. (of course im stalled on doing anything until theres a light/sound kit.)


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## John A (Mar 5, 2009)

The parts for this kit fit nice and snug WITHOUT glue. I intend to mask off the parts where the green lenses are installed and proceed to prime and paint the machine. When the light kit comes out or if I get the urge to create my own lighting using LEDs at a later time I can simply unsnap and disassemble the machine to install the lights.


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

just the start on the base...........


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

I've tried three copper paints. The Testors was too dark. The Valspar was too grainy and "fluffy" and the Krylon is perfect.

I'm on my fourth of fifth coat. I keep finding imperfections like seams or scratches or areas where I've sanded and didn't re-prime to build the coat back up.

The body is sitting in the sink right now soaking in easy off.

Something else, getting that damned screw in.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I have a small, long shank magnetic screwdriver. I placed the screw on the tip with the threads pointing up. I then lowered the ship down over the screw. Worked most of the time. Other times I just shook the ship till it fell in place for me to start screwing.


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## TrueFaith (Feb 24, 2009)

I used Testor's BRASS for mine and 3 coats of Tamita CLEAR on top of that. This is a very well-built kit and was a lot of fun to put together and paint.


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## Magesblood (May 12, 2008)

TrueFaith said:


> I used Testor's BRASS for mine and 3 coats of Tamita CLEAR on top of that. This is a very well-built kit and was a lot of fun to put together and paint.


[Gary Larson cartoon]One war machine to the other, "Gesundheit"[/Larson]


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## lunadude (Oct 21, 2006)

Magesblood said:


> [Gary Larson cartoon]One war machine to the other, "Gesundheit"[/Larson]


Nice, haven't seen that one.

Did make me think of one I did, back in '97.








Those wacky Martian germ jokes.


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