# Best Filler for Slot Track Gaps?



## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

I want to cover up the gaps in the track and the screw heads too. WHat did you use for plastic filler? What has worked best for you? I'm leaning towards Bondo...


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## ruralradio (Mar 11, 2011)

I used JB Weld. Don't use JB Kwik, it sets up too quickly.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

plymouth71 said:


> I want to cover up the gaps in the track and the screw heads too. WHat did you use for plastic filler? What has worked best for you? I'm leaning towards Bondo...


I'm guessing what you use depends on whether you ever want to pull it back apart. Wouldn't Bondo, JB Weld or any other type of hard fastner make that impossible?

I was trying Plastic Wood and I guess it would work although I never put the time in to get it just right. I do know it will not "glue" the pieces together.

Joe


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Keep in mind, I want this track bulletproof. I am not planning on taking this track apart at any point. This track is to be donated and out of my control unless they cause serios damage at which point I'm likely to start over.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Kevlar????


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

I've also used laquer based automotive spot putty,at little easier to sand.

2 part Epoxy or JB Weld work great Dan,but they're labour intensive to sand smooth.

Those 6 inch corners are glued together with epoxy.
I've glued whole tracks together using epoxy,but you won't have much left for fingertips by the time your done the required sanding.

Make sure you use a card or something inserted in the slot to keep the slot open during the gluing process.
Rick


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## tomhocars (Oct 19, 2005)

*Silicone*

The gaps aren't that big.Use GE silicone.It will fill the gaps and screw holes where if you need to take it apart the silicone will be easy to remove.When putting the silicone use a putty knife dipped in denatured alcohol to get it smooth.It also comes in different colors.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks Tom, but I do want to paint the track grey, I guess it would depend on the type of silicone...


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

I have had great results using candle wax.
melt it over the gaps and it is self leveling.
paintable to a point but if you use a colored
candle...it also comes the closest to the 
grip surface if most tracks. if you put more
on than you need, just scrape it off with
a piece of plastic or whatever. use a warm 
wet wash cloth to smooth it out. 
Rich


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## swamibob (Jan 20, 2009)

WOW Grampa, never thought of that! 
Does it work well over a long period of time?

Guys up here use mostly epoxy or body filler. My thought was to use Black RTV silicone, but I really like the candle wax idea.

Tom


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

works great. if you need a little harder, (but brittler) wax, find a ski or snowboard shop for a harder wax. they might have it at hob lob or craft store.
I like the softer wax cause it does have some give and take without cracking or breaking apart if you have high to low humidity or temps involved.
one of the best things is it CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP.
never did like to spend more money on a fix rather than buying new.
I'm kinda a cheapskate or as I prefer, economically challenged.
:thumbsup:
Rich


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

LOL,now that's outside the box thinking
Filed that one away for down the road:thumbsup:


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Grampa Ho said:


> I have had great results using candle wax.
> melt it over the gaps and it is self leveling.
> Rich


Sounds like a great idea. So how do you apply it? Do you actually light a candle and then walk around the track letting it drip into each gap? I'm guessing there's an easier method. Put a piece of wax on a gap and hit it with a soldering iron? 

Thanks...Joe


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

I use modeling clay...


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## HadaSlot (Oct 22, 2007)

I know that you wanted it sturdy so the silicone sounded the sturdiest to me. I can think of a few automotive sealers and the such but clean up solutions would probably melt the track. The wax sounds like a pretty cool idea also. I had some drywall compound going to waste from a house repair so I used it. It was a little messy but shop vac took care of that from the light sanding. I then brushed on waterbased kilz and painted my track color with acrylic paint that I had left over from a painting that I painted. I don't plan on moving it around and a respackle if needed won' be very complicated. That is one reason that I liked the dirt track theme also. Doesn't have to be perfect to look right.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> I use modeling clay...


Hey Rich,
I know you use modeling clay for borders and filling in the gaps between track pieces when they do not nest properly, but do you also use it to fill gaps between consecutive pieces? I think that's what the OP is asking for and I don't see clay (which does not harden) being able to stand up to being constantly beat on, possibly by the guide pin. Plus its not liquid enough to flow into gaps - or is it?

Joe


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## beast1624 (Mar 28, 2009)

We have a 105' 4-lane Tomy permanent layout. We used plain old drywall spackling to fill the gaps between the inside and outside curves and to fill some of the gaps between sections, let it totally dry (we have used the stuff that goes on pink and turns white when dry), then sand it down smooth with 1000+ grit paper. Then we paint it with Woodland Scenics Top Coat Asphalt. The result is totally smooth, rock solid and the same texture and traction as the track. In a couple of spots where we had to take it up to fix a bad track section or raise a rail the stuff just chips off without damaging the track, then we do it over again.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Joe, It's not bullet proof. But....
Modeling clay is super easy to work with, inexpensive, and comes in a variety of colors.
It's flexible, non permanent, but has a permanent look. It will not expand or shrink like track does.
I use it on both my tracks to fill cracks between track joints.
It may not be the best choice for this application, just an idea I threw out there.

If you really want bullet proof, try fiberglass boat/body filler.
Grey caulk (paintable) would be a little less extreme.

PS _I would solder all the joints if you're gonna make a track this permanent._


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Another thought is track goop...


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

All great idea's coming in here. 
I usually light the candle and make sure I have the area set to accept the wax as it melts and filles the area. it can spread if you don't have it contained
properly but cleans very easily. I do not recomend putting anything hot to the plastic for fear of melting the track itself. Been working for me for over forty years and have not had to redo any for a long time.
be aware that some wax stays very soft so buy with hardness in mind. 
all else fails, try them all (ideas) on different areas and see what's what.
yer bound to find what works for you with all the great ideas coming in.
good luck
Rich


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## swamibob (Jan 20, 2009)

Rich:

I really like that idea, what brand or sort of candles do you use? Where do you buy them? It seems like a perfect idea, especially if you're not sure how permanent you want your track. 

Nxt:

Modeling clay? No Hobby Lobbies around here, but I'm sure I can find it in the web.  Is there a particular brand or formula etc that you would recommend?

Thanks guys, good ideas all around!

Tom


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

swamibob said:


> Nxt:
> 
> Modeling clay? No Hobby Lobbies around here, but I'm sure I can find it in the web.  Is there a particular brand or formula etc that you would recommend?
> 
> ...


Hey Rich, I'll take this one....

Check post #15 in this thread:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=352264


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Thanks Joe! I wondered where that post went...

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=4059370&postcount=15


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## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

DRYWALL COMPOUND . 

Gonzo


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

As for the wax, walmart, shopko,k-mart,candle store.
Try to find longer burning candles for harder wax and I would think 
tapered candles for the softer.
I just use what the wife has laying around to tell you the truth.
Rich


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

As I look through this thread, I have a question. Are the solutions being offered here for one or both of the following circumstances:

1. Fill in the gaps between nested curves
2. Fill in the gaps at the track joints

I think we might be getting answers to two different questions.

Thanks...Joe


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## ruralradio (Mar 11, 2011)

Gaps at track joints in my case, soldered most rail joints, too. Did not fill between nested curves, mine are pretty tight.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

I want this track to look/act like a routed track, or at least similar.


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## beast1624 (Mar 28, 2009)

grandcheapskate said:


> as i look through this thread, i have a question. Are the solutions being offered here for one or both of the following circumstances:
> 
> 1. Fill in the gaps between nested curves
> 2. Fill in the gaps at the track joints
> ...


1. Yes
2. Yes


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

plymouth71 said:


> I want this track to look/act like a routed track, or at least similar.


One of our local racers just built a 4 x 16 layout using Tomy track and it's unbelievably smooth and quiet! This was achieved without using any filler.

Every track joint is connected using "Tomy Repair Clips"; the rails were filed smooth at each joint and the track pieces were squeezed together and screwed down.



Installing the repair clips also forced changes to the layout as you can't "make it fit". I imagine soldered joints would have the same effect.


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## brownie374 (Nov 21, 2007)

Latex spackle AKA wall bondo


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## Grampa Ho (Feb 25, 2009)

so. what has happened ofter all these nice and great idea's have been posted and read?
Having any luck with any of the idea's?
I know that I looked a little closer at my L&J 1960's track and all my candle repairs have held up very nicely over the years. I did have to touch up one spot as my blade slipped one day and gouged it out a tad.
Better the track than my fingers I think.
Rich


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

I'm still thinking of using bondo, just short on funds right now..


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## mikeponiatowski (Jan 24, 2006)

*I like modeling clay*

I'll throw my hat in the ring for black modeling clay. I only use it between the inner and out curved track sections on a four lane setup. Works great, not permanent. Not recommended for track joints. 

I use the metal track clips which leave no open joint between sections.


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

I can't get used to the idea of non-permanent solutions like non-hardening clay or wax, so I may be missing out on a good thing. 

For section-to section smoothing, I use a cheap plastic trowel-shaped palette knife (art supply store) to apply water-based spackling compound, from DAP or Red Devil or a dozen other makers. Either the lightweight or regular seems okay. Cheap, sandable, controllable, mostly odorless, easy cleanup, always available at the hardware store, takes paint, and can be tinted beforehand with acrylic paints so a gouge doesn't show up as glaring white. Easy to remove if it gets in guide slots. 

As a bonus, it grips tight, but breaks away cleanly and without damaging the track section when you have to take the track up (probably not true of Bondo, epoxy, goop or solvent-based fillers). 

My experience is limited to smoothing one straightaway that I was painting concrete grey anyway. That section doesn't have a lot of time or very many car-miles on it, but so far, so good, even sitting in an unheated garage. 

I always have a little pot of spackle around anyway, because it is extremely useful for landscaping and texturing, gap-filling in models, as well as its intended purpose of filling nail-holes, gouges, or house-settling cracks in wallboard.

-- D


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## capriguy (Dec 8, 2006)

I recently saw a new modeling trick that may be useful here.
Pour CA glue into the crack and sift baking soda onto the wet glue. Let dry and use a razor blade and sandpaper to finish. Google it.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Dslot said:


> For section-to section smoothing, I use a cheap plastic trowel-shaped palette knife (art supply store) to apply water-based spackling compound, from DAP or Red Devil or a dozen other makers. Either the lightweight or regular seems okay. Cheap, sandable, controllable, mostly odorless, easy cleanup, always available at the hardware store, takes paint, and can be tinted beforehand with acrylic paints so a gouge doesn't show up as glaring white. Easy to remove if it gets in guide slots.
> 
> -- D


I just went back and reviewed this thread from 2008 when I was experimenting with this very topic:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=210466

So D, how does spackle hold up after a lot of use? I gave up on it when I realized how easily it chipped away. Can it hold up to (especially) metal guide pins?

Thanks...Joe


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Hey that's a neat sounding idea Capri,filed that one away for future use,thanks:thumbsup:
Rick


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

Grandcheapskate said:


> So D, how does spackle hold up after a lot of use? I gave up on it when I realized how easily it chipped away. Can it hold up to (especially) metal guide pins?
> 
> Thanks...Joe


Sorry, Joe, I can't really give you a good answer for a couple of reasons.

I don't run often enough to give anything a *lot* of use. My test circuit is the only permanent track I have, and it sits on end in the garage most of the time. I used the spackle as joint filler between pieces on the straight. It's still holding up, but I'm sure it gets less use in a year than a lot of forum members' tracks get in a week. In addition, it's covered by a layer of grey paint. Earlier in this thread I was careful to say I used spackle "for section-to-section smoothing". That's just filling the thin gaps between sections on the track surface, which is not a high-wear or impact application. All that hits it is rubber tires. In the earlier thread, you were interested in filling the flares in the slot at the ends of Tyco track sections. Down in the slot, it's a whole different world, and the spackle might well prove to be not up to the task. 

Wish I had better information to share with you. The stuff is cheap, it mixes with acrylic paint for coloring, and it's easy to apply and work with. Why not try it on a couple of straight and curved track joints, and see how well it holds up. If it fails, the little tubful that you buy is still useful for other purposes.

Best of luck,

-- D


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

I've been tumbling this idea for years, but never bothered; because I'm not all worked up about my track joints...yet. Until I get serious about landscaping and scenery it remains in the back of my mind. 

There is a product called Duramix, for Autobody. It was created for use/repair of modern flexible body panels. Comes in syringe style with two siamesed tubes. Disposable mixing nozzles/silly straw are used to catalyze the two components as you apply it. 

Obviously it dispenses creamy and spreadable like any other body filler. Once it hardened it's workable in the conventional manner.

Like most specialized products ....it aint cheap. I have no idea how it will react with sectional track, but it's flexible, paintable, and designed to be stable under temperature fluctuations. Best of all....it comes in black.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

Dslot said:


> Earlier in this thread I was careful to say I used spackle "for section-to-section smoothing". That's just filling the thin gaps between sections on the track surface, which is not a high-wear or impact application. All that hits it is rubber tires. -- D


Yeah, I misunderstood where you were using the spackle. I can see it might hold up on the track surface.

I think if I were to try smoothing the track joints, that would be both the surface and slot, I'd want to use the same material for both and do both at the same time. So it's a matter of what an individual is trying to accomplish. There seem to be three areas that could be addressed on sectional track - (1) the slot, (2) the track surface and (3) the space between nested curves.

Gotta try that candle wax though...

Thanks...Joe


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## Dyno (Jan 26, 2009)

Bill Hall said:


> I've been tumbling this idea for years, but never bothered; because I'm not all worked up about my track joints...yet. Until I get serious about landscaping and scenery it remains in the back of my mind.
> 
> There is a product called Duramix, for Autobody. It was created for use/repair of modern flexible body panels. Comes in syringe style with two siamesed tubes. Disposable mixing nozzles/silly straw are used to catalyze the two components as you apply it.
> 
> ...


As I have worked in the autobody business for more than 20 years I have some experience with Duramix and most of the plastic material. These products would work very well for joining tracks , filling gaps or whatever you needed to do. The problem is the price. The average shop price is around 30 dollars a setup. You would also need a good supply of mixing tips. As for most things to stick to plastic, sanding and cleanliness are important. Clean up of areas that had too much material would be difficult because the solvents needed probably will nelt the track. The better brands sand quite well. Bondo probably won't stick that well but I could be wrong. When you sand it, the edge may keep moving back and not blend in because they are aren't really compatible materials. I haven't tried either method but these are some of the dangers/drawbacks.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

I know nothing about resin, but would the same material guys use for making bodies work as a joint filler?

Thanks...Joe


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

:drunk: ooooooooooo.

Bought some bondo. did a small section. the fumes are overpowering.. I think I might try the sculpting clay after all...


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

A brick of clay is about 4 bucks. At hobby lobby you can get 40% off.
Listen to gpho...



Grampa Ho said:


> all else fails, try them all (ideas) on different areas and see what's what.
> yer bound to find what works for you with all the great ideas coming in.


I would like to try that candle wax idea... :thumbsup:


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

No Hobby Lobby's in Canada


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Another good thread....


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