# No spark old 8hp Briggs



## dji1 (Jun 7, 2016)

I have used this mower 3-4 times this year and it been fine. The last time I tried to use it, it turns but won't start. I am not getting a spark. I removed the flywheel and replaced the key (partly sheared), cleaned the points and soldered a broken wire from the condenser to the coil. Re gap everything and put it back together thinking I fixed the problem. 

I tried to check the condenser. I think I got some resistance and voltage so I think it is ok. Not really sure about my method. Points looked good so I just cleaned them up. 

How do I check the coil? Any suggestions before I try again. 

Thanks

model :190707 
type: 5837-01


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## nbpt100 (Jun 1, 2015)

The condenser is just a capacitor and will act like an open circuit with low current and voltage applied to it. If you get a very low resistance or no resistance it shorted out and is bad. It is not a bad thing to change it if you think it is pretty old.

I am not sure how to tell for certain if the coil is good but you should get some resistance across its leads. If you get an open circuit there is a break in one of the wires and it is bad. I would also check the gap between the fly wheel and the coil pickup. Usually .008-.012 is a typical gap on machines I have worked on. Some thick paper or a business card can work as a set up gauge.


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## dji1 (Jun 7, 2016)

Thanks nbpt100 (I lived on the cape years ago)

I am planning to re-check the gap on the points. I have never had luck checking a capacitor. Ever time I think my pool motor(s) cap's are bad and go to buy a new one they check it and tell me it okay. (I think I am 1 for 6) They say if it isn't leaking it is probably ok. I remember when the old cars had points you always changed the condenser when you replaced the points. Better safe then sorry. Flywheel gap is fine.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

You need a meter that can test Farads, but condensers are a whole lot cheaper. I have to have a decent meter as I repair generators, and have to test both Farads and frequency (hertz).
Whenever a point-based system has no spark, and all wiring is ok or repaired, then I'd suspect the condenser, which are usually 3 to 5 micro-farads. I don't usually test them, just replace 'em.

You can probably find the service manual for your engine online, and get the coil specs. for resistance.

Electrical Multimeter Fluke 117 | Adjust to Demanding Settings


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I don't know how old your engine is, but most Briggs & Stratton engines have a condenser that is integral with the points set up. Some of the older units had a separate condenser from the points. If you have a separate condenser and suspect it's bad, just remove it and test for spark. You don't need a condenser for the ignition system to work, it's there to reduce the arcing on the points and increase their service life, but the ignition system will work without a condenser.


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## dji1 (Jun 7, 2016)

The engine code says it was made in 1985 and it does have a separate condenser from the points. I am not the original owner but have had it for over 20 yrs. I disconnected the 2 wires (1 from the kill switch & 1 that goes to the coil) from the condenser today and I still get no spark. 

I found a number on the coil UFE 4 and the condenser number EUC with a X on it? I have no idea what these mean.

I am confused on the 2 bare wires that come off of the coil. They are soldered together and connect with the 1 wire coming from the condenser and a wire that connects to 1 screw that holds the coil down? 

I tried to find a replacement coil and its says that the part is discontinued. How do I find a replacement coil? 

My Fluke I bought 30 yrs ago is the best meter I have own but it doesn't test farads. 

Thanks again for the help.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

dji1 said:


> . I disconnected the 2 wires (1 from the kill switch & 1 that goes to the coil) from the condenser today and I still get no spark.


The wire to the points from the coil has to be hooked up, just take the condenser out and do not attach it to the points to test for spark.

Better yet, post the model, type and code number of your engine. I am pretty sure that a unit made in 1985 if it had points, used the integrated condenser setup and not a separate condenser. Ignition system started transitioning to solid state setups beginning in '82.
If a coil for points is not available, it can be converted to a new solid state magnetron igntion coil, eliminating the old points.


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## dji1 (Jun 7, 2016)

Model: 190707
Type: 5837 01
Code: 85010709

There is no wire to the points. The condenser like you said is part of the point system. I think this is what you mean by integrated? I referred to it as a separate condenser because one of the points contact is on the condenser and the other is on the spring side of the points. I thought you order the replacements as 2 separate items. You move the condenser to set the gap. I guess this means I can't test the coil without the condenser?

How do I find a part number for a new solid state magnetron ignition coil? 

I took some pictures but I don't see any way to attach them.

Thanks again..


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

dji1 said:


> Model: 190707
> Type: 5837 01
> Code: 85010709
> 
> ...


You find it right here.... Briggs # 398811

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...qmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6h2guce5vn_e


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## dji1 (Jun 7, 2016)

Thank you.. I will try and find it locally first and if I can't I will order it from amazon or home depot.


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## dji1 (Jun 7, 2016)

I installed the new coil and it started right up. When I was removing the plug boot from the old coil I noticed the wire was broken. Not sure if I broke it when I was removing the boot or if that was the original problem.

Unfortunately while cutting the lawn today the pulley that drives the cutting blade broke. I will open a new thread for this.


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