# The Mummy...W.I.P.



## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

I don't often build non-military models and this is one of them, its the older Aurora mold kit of the Mummy.









The fit of the parts is not really that bad but there is a step on one side of the parts that needs to be carved down, because of the wrappings its not easy to remedy by simply just sanding the high side down, some re-carving and putty work is needed.









A close-up of how nasty the step is on the parts can be seen here, the entire body of the Mummy was like this. On the plus side the face is really well sculpted and should look good after painting and weathering.










Agentsmith


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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing your take on this one!


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## Frankie Boy (Feb 28, 2002)

agentsmith said:


> ... there is a step on one side of the parts that needs to be carved down, because of the wrappings its not easy to remedy by simply just sanding the high side down ... A close-up of how nasty the step is on the parts can be seen here ...


When you say "step", you're meaning the foot, yes?


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thanks scookie123!

Frankie Boy,
No pun intended with the foot!

Agentsmith


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

As with all these kits it helps to cut off the mold alignment pins which often make things worse... But in the end they come out looking really good.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Good choice for a non-military kit, I'm looking forward to the result, and it was a good decision not to cement the feet to the ankles yet until you've made sure they correspond to the base properly.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Here is an Egyptian Cobra... There is something about the kit snake that just irks me. I think its the shape of the hood and the fact that it just sticks out from the snakes neck well before the head.


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thanks djnick66 and Cro-Magnon Man!

Nick,
Cutting off the locating pins on the parts before joining them is something I do with most models and it did not do much good on this model as far as reducing the step that was present after the parts were joined together...this model was going to be more work during assembly than I wanted but I feel lucky just to have it in the first place, it was sent to me by another modeler that did not want it anymore so I will try and make it into a good looking model.

I am not that impressed with the Cobra either and have the impression it was included with this kit as an afterthought. With some careful detail painting I will try and make it look better than it should.:thumbsup:

Agentsmith


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Love the classics (Monsters that is)!


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## mrmurph (Nov 21, 2007)

Looking forward to this WIP thread as well. This should be fun for all of us.
Enjoy!


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thanks Mitchellmania and mrmurph!

No pics today but there has been some progress on the model.

The arms and feet have been glued on, there was going to be some gaps in the joins and in order to fill them I smeared red Bondo putty on the edges of the parts just before they were glued together...as the parts were pushed together the putty smushed outwards and sealed the gap which was easily carved away later. This method worked pretty good and it avoided making a bigger mess by smearing the putty AFTER the parts were joined.

Agentsmith


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## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

This is one of the Aurora models I didn't build as a child but finally did as an adult. I really enjoyed building it warts and all. When I was a kid I used to believe that the model creators at Aurora made the monsters tough to build so that you had to develop better skills to build them 'right'. Little did I know that it was just limitations of the mold making process of that era.

I'm looking forward to watching your build. Are you going with brown/tan bandages or grey?

Regards,
Matt


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thank you Spockr,
For the color of the Mummy I was thinking of going with a pale tan/gray for the wrappings while the face and hand will be in gray tones.

Agentsmith


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Agent S.,

You might find this tip helpful: consider using small files when you're working on the seams. I used little Testors rat tail and triangle files on my model. It's easy to have the tooth marks from the files follow the texture of the wrappings. When you're satisfied with your seam work, a light brushing of lacquer thinner over the file marks will soften the sharp edges so they'll look like molded detail.

I textured the small amounts of putty I did use by pressing an old handkerchief into it. Good luck with your model; I for one will stay tuned to see how it comes out.


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thanks Mark!

When working on the seam lines I did not use files, instead I used small sections of fresh sandpaper in various grits that was folded into a sharp crease to get into the hard to reach places. Crude, but effective.


Agentsmith


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

No problem, just use a heavier grit, maybe 150 or less. I use 60 grit to add tooth to mating surfaces.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I used x-acto files or just scraped the putty/seams down with an x-acto knife. Actually this kit presents less of a problem than some of the other Aurora figures. I always though Frankenstein was the worst... 

I have done three kits in three different color schemes... its hard to go wrong !


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Sorry its taken this long for an update on this build but its been unusually hot here the past week almost no work has been done on any models.

Here is what the Mummy looks like right now, its ready for paint and will get painted once the temps get back to normal.










Agentsmith


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## RobP. (Jun 21, 2013)

Looks to be coming along nicely! I hear you on the heat, same here in North Idaho. Did not do any painting on my Wolfman Monday or Tuesday, but got some done last night. Great to see the info on the seam work! 

Rob


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Rob,
I lived in western Idaho for ten years and I know what you mean about the warm weather during the summer...very hard to stay indoors and work on models when its hot. The Idaho climate can be extreme at times but I miss it terribly, where I live now its usually rain/clouds for most of the year and only three weeks of nice weather in August. Around here people don't tan, they rust!


Agentsmith


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

AgentSmith,

This kit brings back a lot of memories for me...especially the Glow in the Dark version I had as a kid...LOVED IT!

And this is also a drybrush DREAM to be able to enjoy. The fact that you are dealing with bandages, it is very forgiving as far as trying to match up or re-sculpt a realistic look...because it isn't smooth. The markings on the tomb can be a bit tricky...I have seen these painted either with a wash or with a combination of drybrush and washes and look GREAT once done!

Can't wait to see your take on this and trying to fix the cobra look as much as possible. It is a bit cartoony looking...I think the sides of his head are too big...and that is what over emphasizes the look and is a bit over the top on this one.

MMM


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## csoldier (Nov 6, 2010)

agentsmith said:


> Rob,
> I lived in western Idaho for ten years and I know what you mean about the warm weather during the summer...very hard to stay indoors and work on models when its hot. The Idaho climate can be extreme at times but I miss it terribly, _where I live now its usually rain/clouds for most of the year and only three weeks of nice weather in August. Around here people don't tan, they rust!_
> 
> Agentsmith


You live in the UK then?:jest:

I've got this on the go at the moment (one of several re-pops) so will be interested to see how it turns out.


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

MMM,
I won't change the shape of the Cobra but I will be giving it some extra attention while painting it.
The base and columes are okay but I did have to use putty on one of them because the parts did not match up too well, I did my best trying to re-sculpt the detail...getting some paint on it will tell if I got it mended correctly.
For painting the base I plan on using oil paints and dry brushing to bring out the details and as a final touch the airbrush might be used to tone things down to make them look more natural. I don't want the ground work to draw attention from the Mummy itself.
I was looking at photograph stills from the Boris Karloff version of the Mummy and sadly the Mummy is rather monotone looking so my finished model will not be very colorful.

Agentsmith


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

csoldier,
No I don't live in the UK but the weather we get here is very similar from what I have been told.
A while back I spoke with a person who lived several years in Seattle and moved here and was curious how the wet weather compared between the two places, I was shocked to learn Seattle was considered dry in comparison.:freak: I suspected as much! Around here vitamin D is really needed for health reasons.


Agentsmith


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## RobP. (Jun 21, 2013)

Actually today it has finally cooled down some here. In fact it looks as if it may rain! We need it but I have to work tonight, which is a booger. I like working on the models when its raining. Adds atmosphere to the build!

I look forward to your next WIP post here and to see how your seems turn out. Currently I am giving in on the seems of my Wolfman to a certain extent. I need to order some diffrent putties and see what works for me. But it may just be my patients!! Having just got back into this myself after a long hiatus, I am eager to put something on the shelf next to my Creature. He's been alone along time. 

Rob


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

agentsmith said:


> ...
> I was looking at photograph stills from the Boris Karloff version of the Mummy and sadly the Mummy is rather monotone looking so my finished model will not be very colorful.


Agent S.,

This model was based on the "Silver Age" Mummy, Kharis, played by Tom Tyler and Lon Chaney, Jr. Still of both actors in the role look monochromatic as well; but the box illustration by James Bama show how much variation you can add to even a whitish Mummy if you are so inclined.

FYI, the Mummy was described by the other characters in the film as being gray in color - to be expected since the movies were shot in black and white...?


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Mark,
I was looking for studio images of the Mummy and never did find any stills that were taken in color film so this model will not be very colorful. My intended color for the wrappings will be an off white with a bit of a dust thrown in. The exposed hand and head will be a slightly darker color...its not exactly like the movie but will be more interesting looking.
The box top painting is interesting artwork but I don't want to copy that style because in model form it would look rather cartoonish.

There might be a bit of a wait before the next update since this site is so slow I avoid it now and can only hope whatever went wrong can be mended. HT is the only site that is giving me trouble and the ultra slow loading has been happening for about a week now...how hard could it be to track down whatever changes were made at that time and either undo or fix them?


Agentsmith


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

agentsmith said:


> ...I was looking for studio images of the Mummy and never did find any stills that were taken in color...
> The box top painting is interesting artwork but I don't want to copy that style because in model form it would look rather cartoonish.
> 
> There might be a bit of a wait before the next update since this site is so slow...


Agent S.,

I don't think anybody ever did take color photos of Karloff, Tyler, or Chaney; if there were such pictures, you'd think they'd have surfaced by now. Therefore, the choice of colors for any model based on the mummies of the 1930s through the '50s [as in _Abbott and Costello Meet the Mummy_ (1955)] has to be based pretty much on how a modeler interprets the gray values of the movies and publicity stills. That means whatever you decide on is as good as anybody else's guess.

The last Mummy I painted was based on the box art:
















​ I don't think it looks cartoonish, but I will defend to the death your right to choose your own Mummy's color palette - though I do hope you won't embarrass me by going with fluorescent puce. 

On the other topic, I haven't been having any problems with the HobbyTalk site using Mozilla Firefox web browser, whereas I'm getting the same "Slow Script" message when I open HT with Internet Explorer. You can download Firefox for free, it's faster than IE and works pretty much the same way. And believe me, when it comes to computers I am no Mr. Spock!


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Mark,
I am not computer savvy at all and like my computer just as it is, when I find something that works well for me I tend to stick with it and it that goes the same for modeling tools and supplies so until the slow script problem is sorted out I will cease posting here...hell, even when I used to have dial up it was way faster then this!

BTW, you are from Toledo? Me too, but in my case its Toledo Oregon.:wave:


Agentsmith


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I have painted three of these kits, with different tones and all three came out well. The last one used a dark blue grey base to look like the glow kit box art.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

agentsmith said:


> BTW, you are from Toledo? Me too, but in my case its Toledo Oregon.


Cool! Both cities are pretty near water; maybe we should be discussing The Creature - ? :freak:


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Mark,
Funny you should mention the Creature, that is one of my favorites of the line of Aurora movie monsters.

BTW, it was rude of me to not comment on your Mummy build. The additional colors you added do look very good.:thumbsup:

Until the problem with the slow loading script is taken care of I am outta here, check out Modeling Madness in the July in-progress thread to see more updates of my build of the Mummy. I am getting two other models ready for paint right this minute so the Mummy is on hold for now until all three models are at the painting stage.

Goodbye


Agentsmith


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Well, what do ya know, the forums are back up to speed!:thumbsup:
Glad I did not change my browser.:dude:

Anyway, here are a couple in-progress of the Mummy build.

I decided I will finish up the base first before the Mummy figure, here you can see the Mummy has been given a light coat of paint to check for defects around the seam lines...not perfect but it will do for this type of model.









The base has been given a coat of sand colored paint followed by some black pre-shading, much of the pre-shading will be covered up later on but it should look good when combined with the oil washes to follow.









Agentsmith


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## RobP. (Jun 21, 2013)

Interesting work, How do you do your oil washes?

Rob


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Rob,
I use regular oil paints and thin them with odorless Turpinoid. Before I apply the oil paint wash on my models I usually coat the models with an airbrushed coat of Future to act as a barrier against the oil washes since I use enamel paints.


Agentsmith


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## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

Looks good so far agent smith.
Did you decide to go with gray or tan on Mummy?


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## RobP. (Jun 21, 2013)

agentsmith said:


> Rob,
> I use regular oil paints and thin them with odorless Turpinoid. Before I apply the oil paint wash on my models I usually coat the models with an airbrushed coat of Future to act as a barrier against the oil washes since I use enamel paints.
> 
> 
> Agentsmith



Agentsmith, I look forward to seeing how this looks, I have never used oil paints, only enamels and acrylics. Just how does the Future act as a barrier? will the oils damage the enamels, or does it just help it flow and disperse? 

Rob


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thanks Roy!
My Mummy figure will be painted in light gray/tan colors, the exposed hand and face will be in slightly darker colors than the wrapping.

Rob,
The Turpinoid will soften the enamel paint and it will rub off easily. Acrylic paints hold up much better against the Turpinoid.
The coat of Future is still recommended because it helps the thinned oil paint to flow into all the creases where you need it. 
For example, on aircraft models I use thinned oil paints to highlight the panel lines and with the surface of the model coated with Future I just touch the tip of the brush onto a panel line and the oil paint neatly wicks into the panel line and flows several inches, if any oil paint goes outside the panel lines its a simple matter to wipe it away later.


Agentsmith


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

My plans today were to cover up the pre-shading with a light coat of sand colored paint but the more I looked at the base the more it looked like it needed something else...so today I loaded up the airbrush with white paint and added highlights in a few select areas including the nameplate.









Later today I will give the base a coat of sand and see what it looks like.


Agentsmith


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

I sprayed a coat of sand colored paint on the base and like the overall look of it, I will airbrush a few highlights with a lightened version of the sand color before I get around to airbrushing the coat of Future.










Agentsmith


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Its been a while since I did anything on this model so I will get back to work on it and get it finished this month.

The figure and Cobra are getting painted now.

A light colored base coat was sprayed on the Mummy and some pre-shading on the wrappings added with medium gray paint.
The face and left hand was painted using a special technique I developed for bringing out some extra detail on figure kits. The model was held upside down and the airbrush was held in such a way that when I sprayed the medium gray the cone of the spray was only hitting the raised areas of the models surface. When the model is viewed right side up the gray paint is only in the shadowed parts of the face and hand and gives the features more texture than by just dry brushing or oil paints alone.








After I am finished with the pre-shading on all the wrappings the model parts will get a coat of Future and then some oil paint washes and a little dry brushing too.

Agentsmith


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## RobP. (Jun 21, 2013)

Coming along nicely, I like your technique!

Rob


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Love your work on the Mummy!


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## Kitzillastein58 (Jan 27, 2009)

Looking great so far, can't wait to see him all done! :thumbsup:


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## agentsmith (Mar 27, 2005)

Thanks guys!

A little more painting left to do on the Mummy and then I can give it a coat of Future.


Agentsmith


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## starduster (Feb 12, 2006)

Great job on the Mummy, I had a great building mine it is a great kit even by today's standards, thanks for the WIP. Karl


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