# The closest thing (model paint) to chrome



## VelocityArts

Hello,
So I do a lot of vintage die cast restoration and strive to maintain as much of the original appearance as I can to the original. 
The problem I have run into is what to do about features that were once "chrome plated" (usually over plastic) where the chrome plating has since scratched or scuffed off due to wear and tear. Tried chrome leaf and did not work too well.
Bought some Testors silver model paint (as well as a Testors paint pen) and it does not cut it (not even close!).

So the the model car experts here -

What would you say is the closest thing (model paint) that comes as close chrome as the plating?
Anything out there other than Testors that works? 

Thanks very kindly in advance. I appreciate ANY and all the insight you can share.:wink2:

-Peter


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## Milton Fox Racing

The molotow liquid chrome pen is the 2nd best product in my opinion. I have always thought that chrome foil looked the best though - was this your first try?










You can get them at Hobby Lobby - use their internet (phone) 40% coupon for the best deal. They are not cheap.


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## Alien

Have you tried Alclad??? https://alclad2.com/

This stuff is pretty good. You do need an airbrush to apply it.
It is not quite as shiny as vacuum plated chrome in a model kit but often looks more realistic as the plated chrome can sometimes be too shiny.

You spray it over a gloss black finish (Also available from Alclad) and I would suggest a clear coat over the top.

I painted a 1/25th scale truck with Alclad Chrome, did not clear coat it, and the paint corroded. It was a masking nightmare to respray the built up model. It is clear coated now and still looks great.

Here is a link to some photos. http://culttvman.com/main/alan-douglass-mack/
Note: The wheel hubs are the standard vac-plated kit parts, but everything else is Alclad.

Alien


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## Faust

Alien said:


> Have you tried Alclad??? https://alclad2.com/
> 
> This stuff is pretty good. You do need an airbrush to apply it.
> It is not quite as shiny as vacuum plated chrome in a model kit but often looks more realistic as the plated chrome can sometimes be too shiny.
> 
> You spray it over a gloss black finish (Also available from Alclad) and I would suggest a clear coat over the top.
> 
> I painted a 1/25th scale truck with Alclad Chrome, did not clear coat it, and the paint corroded. It was a masking nightmare to respray the built up model. It is clear coated now and still looks great.
> 
> Here is a link to some photos. http://culttvman.com/main/alan-douglass-mack/
> Note: The wheel hubs are the standard vac-plated kit parts, but everything else is Alclad.
> 
> Alien


Molotow Chrome kicks the pants off Alclad. It's more chromy and easier to use.

If you coat it with Aquagloss (from Alclad) acrylic gloss coat, it dulls a bit, but not a tonne. It can be airbrushed thinned with 99% Isopropyl alcohol. Be careful about over thinning.

It's not perfect, but it's darned close too it. 

Alclad has a lot of issues, and isn't anywhere near as chromy. It's harder to apply too. The Molotow don't need special gloss-black primers. Any primer will do.


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## RVREVO

Recently heard about chrome wrap.
Not sure if anyone has tried to apply to a scale model, or if that is even possible

Richard k


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## BobDodge1

i use the Molotow pen, works great


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## aussiemuscle308

RVREVO said:


> Recently heard about chrome wrap.
> Not sure if anyone has tried to apply to a scale model, or if that is even possible
> 
> Richard k


i asked about it on scale auto. most said it's too thick for scale modeling purposes.


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## Milton Fox Racing

aussiemuscle308 said:


> i asked about it on scale auto. most said it's too thick for scale modeling purposes.


They must be using it wrong then. :toetap05:

Did they have any other suggestions that work better? :lurk5:


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## aussiemuscle308

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Did they have any other suggestions that work better? :lurk5:


Bare Metal Foil was popular choice. i use it normally.


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## Faust

aussiemuscle308 said:


> Bare Metal Foil was popular choice. i use it normally.


BMF is a great product. It can be used where the Molotows can't, and vice versa. I like BMF for head, tail and marker lights, long pieces of trim and such. I like the pens for fender scripts, dash details, etc.

One advantage of the Molotow is you can airbrush it, so if you've got something that needs to be chromed, and you can get it as a separate piece, you're golden (or, well... chromed, I guess...)


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