# Using Wheel Puller and Press



## Grandcheapskate

I have both a wheel puller and wheel press. While not identical to those sold by RT-HO, they are very similar. I think mine may be Lucky Bob's. Anyway, here my questions.

Wheel puller: How do you use this tool to remove a wheel if you cannot get the "fork" portion of the tool behind the hub? Some hubs are too close to the chassis and I cannot get behind the wheel with anything but a tiny screwdriver. Is that what I have to do - pry the wheel far enough out so the tool fits behind it?

Wheel press: How do you press wheels on equally? Usually one wheel will tend to press on more easily than the other. Ideally, I am guessing you press one wheel on until the axle fills the entire wheel and then place that wheel against a solid object so the axle cannot protrude further. This allows the axle to then insert itself into the other wheel. The problem I have with this tool is there is a hole right in the center of the "solid" side which can allow the axle to extend beyond the outside of the wheel. That hole must be there for a reason but I cannot figure it out.

Thanks...Joe


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## slotking

> Wheel puller: How do you use this tool to remove a wheel if you cannot get the "fork" portion of the tool behind the hub?


different wheels can be an issue. some will have necks that the wheel puller. 
i did thin out the top edge of one once so i could slide it behind a tight hub.






> Wheel press: How do you press wheels on equally?


the tire should fit on anvil that keeps it flat, or remove the anvil to keep it flat


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## Jisp

Hi Joe. Nice to see you back on the tools mate.

The pic below was taken for something else but will suffice for now. Just ignore the hex driver bits. The pusher & puller are both Lucky Bob's and I’m pretty sure yours are RT-HOs. If you got them from LB perhaps he was reselling? Matters not, the operation of the tools is essentially the same I think.











For the puller on the right I’m sorry but I can’t help much because I’ve not had the problem you describe. I’ve had some that were an extremely tight fit getting the puller end between the chassis and wheel but I was always still able to get in without undue force. I just measured the thickness of the U shaped end section and it comes in at 1.51mm/.06” or 1/16.

The wheel & gear presses are interesting little animals and come without instruction. My take for the press on the left, from experience and tips I’ve picked up is this.... the flat faced aluminium plug is a slip fit over a brass wheel anvil similar to the RT version. I use it for gears or wheels that don’t fit on the anvil beneath it. I use the hole by inserting a slip fit drift into it and sliding the gear/wheel over the drift. It basically holds the wheel/gear centred for the pusher. The drift is just pushed out the back as you press the axle or shaft. I think RichD taught me that.

For pushing wheels on equally I mount the first wheel up on the anvil and then press the axle in. The end of the screw in tool has a dimple to hold the free axle end in place. I’m guessing it is the second wheel press that is giving you trouble. When you mount the second wheel on the anvil & flip the axle over and begin pressing, sometimes the axle will continue to press into the first wheel rather than the second. Is that what you mean? The problem comes from the fact that the screw in tool is pushing on the first wheel, not the axle inside it. Usually I get around it by using the screw in tool from the pusher. The pin end allows you to push on the axle inside the first wheel. It’s a delicate operation and usually requires reseating of the pin end on the axle a couple of times along the way. An alternative is to use a screw in tool with a small BB mounted in the end. The screw end fits inside the rim while the protruding BB presses on the axle. RT makes one for tightening gear holes but I don’t know if the screw section fits inside most HO rims. I made one quite a while ago and found I needed to slightly taper the end of the screw section to fit inside the rim. Also made a 1mm pin end version for some obscure need that I don’t even remember. LOL.

Hope this helps you with what can be a frustrating job.

Cheers,
Michael. 

P.S. Mike, are you back on US soil?


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## cwbam

Practice practice practice .............
think of it as a batting average
with practice you should get better

FRICTION is ........... (friend & enemy) parts old and new can vary slightly and cause......


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## Grandcheapskate

Jisp said:


> Hi Joe. Nice to see you back on the tools mate.
> 
> The pic below was taken for something else but will suffice for now. Just ignore the hex driver bits. The pusher & puller are both Lucky Bob's and I’m pretty sure yours are RT-HOs. If you got them from LB perhaps he was reselling? Matters not, the operation of the tools is essentially the same I think.


Hi Michael,
Thanks for the reply. I just pulled those RT-HO pictures to show the type of tools I have. I believe mine are Lucky Bob's as well - they are identical to those you pictured.



> I’m guessing it is the second wheel press that is giving you trouble. When you mount the second wheel on the anvil & flip the axle over and begin pressing, sometimes the axle will continue to press into the first wheel rather than the second. Is that what you mean? The problem comes from the fact that the screw in tool is pushing on the first wheel, not the axle inside it. Usually I get around it by using the screw in tool from the *pusher*. The pin end allows you to push on the axle inside the first wheel. It’s a delicate operation and usually requires reseating of the pin end on the axle a couple of times along the way.
> 
> Hope this helps you with what can be a frustrating job.
> 
> Cheers,
> Michael.


 I understand what you mean, as long as you meant "wheel puller" rather than "pusher" above (which I highlighted) when referring to the "pin end".

Thanks...Joe


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## alpink

joe, you need to buy the additional anvils for the press.
in addition, something I have found to be helpfull with nearly every press I have (I have nearly everyones) is that you need to use the pin portion of the matching brand puller to push the axle into the second wheel.
the blunt pusher might just cause the first wheel to push farther on the axle than you want during that portion of assembly.
bottom line, just like you pushed directly on the axle when inserting it into the first wheel, you want to push directly on the axle when pressing the axle into the second wheel.

now, understand that if the set up calls for the axle to protrude from each wheel, this process is not at all necessary.

pullers will never be perfect for removing wheels that are set very close to the chassis.
those that have attempted to make one to do that have discovered brakage or bending of the forked portion of the puller because it just isn't strong enough.

I found some find of very thin, two tined fork instrument, that I can inster between the wheel and chassis and then pry on that gently with a flat hobby screw driver until there is enough room to get the puller between the wheel and the chassis.
care should always be taken to avoid pushing the whel sideways or cocking it while performing this maneuver.

having been the hack that used a pocket knife blade to perform all my wheel and gear removals at one time, I can assure you that taking the time to do it right and do it well, will make you much happier in the end.
I clearly threw away half of the wheels and gears that I removed with the pocket knife blade.

and oh yeah, I just read that JISP (my long distance brother from another mother) has given simila,r if not the same, advice. thank you Michael.


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## Jisp

> ..... as long as you meant "wheel puller" rather than "pusher"....


My mistake Joe, I did mean the pin end from the puller.

Al, the two tined fork instrument that you mention, is it tapered like a very thin wedge? I don’t recall where but I’ve seen a wedge shaped tool like you describe. Was made for larger scale cars if I recall correctly. The idea as I understood it was to push the wedge in and pry the wheel up. My impression was to wonder why nobody makes a pair of thin, forked wedges that you press in over/under style from opposite sides of the axle. Such wedges may exist but I’ve never seen them. Dual, opposed wedges would push the wheel straight off the axle.

Cheers guys,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## alpink

Michael, actually the "tool" I found, on the road, appears to be a cooking utensil.
like maybe a pickle fork for a long narrow bottle?
it is very long, has a nice handle and the tines are flat.
sort of like a metal skewer only with a two prong fork on the end.
I am sure this has a specific purpose and I might have discovered that at some time, but, you know, I have halftimers.


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## Rich Dumas

If you are not using dished wheels or your axles are short it is tricky to get the wheels in the right place no matter what kind of pusher and puller you use. Using improvised tools can result in a damaged wheel. I use an RT-HO wheel press and that has different anvils to fit dished wheels. If the wheels that I am pressing on are not dished I use one of the larger diameter anvils with a 0.049 axle up the center to keep the wheel aligned. Presses work best if the wheel is dished and the axle is long enough, otherwise one wheel will get pressed on too far and will have to be pulled back off a bit. If you have pressed on a wheel too far you can always pull it back off if you can get a puller in place. Wheels with nibs are not a problem, but wheels without them don't leave you any room to work. If you must pry on the wheel it is best to use two hobby knives or something similar to avoid distorting the wheel. If you notch some brass shim stock and put that between the wheel and the chassis you can remove the shim(s) after the wheels are pressed.


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## Grandcheapskate

Rich Dumas said:


> If you notch some brass shim stock and put that between the wheel and the chassis you can remove the shim(s) after the wheels are pressed.


Yeah, I was thinking along those lines. Put something behind the wheel and press the wheel on - then pull the "spacer" out. The spacer would need to have enough of a "handle" to grab so you could "wiggle" the spacer out if it gets really tight.

Al and Michael,
I think the tool Al mentioned may be a tack remover. I have seen pictures of them. For lack of a better description, they are a small crowbar with a forked end. It may be possible to file down the fork to be very thin.

Joe


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## Rich Dumas

Wera makes a little crowbar tool that is useful. It is a little thick to get between the chassis and wheel, but it could be ground down. For stock narrow T-Jet wheels I use an armature pinion puller, that does not work with wider wheels.


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## Boosted-Z71

Harbor Freight also has a plastic set of small pry bars that when modified a bit work great in those spots you cant get the puller too

http://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-pc-69668.html

sturdy enough for slot car tools and easily modified

Boosted


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## Jisp

Hi guys. I know the type of small tack removing tool mentioned and I used to have one. Prior to loaning it to someone and never seeing it again I did consider at some stage to try it on wheels. I never did because looking at it all I just felt I'd do damage. Not saying it can't work well, I just wasn't willing to try it. In the end I bit the bullet and bought the puller & press and I'm glad I did. Given that I have one of each it's pretty easy for me to say there's no substitute for the so called "right" tool but......

While they do make the job easier to get right, not everyone's budget allows for them and that's when the clever boys step in to hit the problem with improvisation. Boosted, looks like a great find with the pry bar set. The last two flared end tools could easily have the flares taken off and an axle clearing slot cut up the centre. Pushed in at 180 to each other I'd bet they'd lift the wheel off straight and true. They're exactly what I was talking about a few posts back but I didn't know such a thing existed.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## oneredz

alpink said:


> Michael, actually the "tool" I found, on the road, appears to be a cooking utensil.
> like maybe a pickle fork for a long narrow bottle?
> it is very long, has a nice handle and the tines are flat.
> sort of like a metal skewer only with a two prong fork on the end.
> I am sure this has a specific purpose and I might have discovered that at some time, but, you know, I have halftimers.


 Al, it almost sounds like you are describing an olive fork. Take a Google and let us know if that is it.


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## alpink

wow,
very similar to this.
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Oli...1_1_6?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1436558722&sr=1-6
but not as fancy.
it might even be a "seafood" fork.
will try to get a picture later.
thank you for the idea.


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## alpink

*four Q*

what does it look like to you guys?





thank you for the help
:wave:


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## oneredz

Probably seafood fork. Longer handle than an olive fork, usually. The link shows what is more of a seafood fork. Olive fork handles are usually a bit shorter. I would say the "tool" you found is a seafood fork. Either name does the trick, AND they can be had in stainless steel so can be much thinner than the aluminum wheel pullers to get into the tighter spaces. For those "more well heeled", they could even swing for a sterling silver model.

Hmm, back to the kitchen to raid it for yet another item for my slot car tool kit.


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## Tuxedo

Yes, it's either a seafood fork or a fondue fork


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## sethndaddy

guys guys guys, everyone knows thats a pixie pitchfork, used for killing evil toads


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## Super Coupe

Ball joint fork
>Tom<


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## Tuxedo

Super Coupe said:


> Ball joint fork
> >Tom<


For HO scale ! LOL


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## Jisp

Whatever it was in a past life it's a wheel puller now. Nice re purposing of an ordinary item Al.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## alpink

I work outdoors in many locations.
from the darkest, sometimes worst, neighborhoods in the city to wonderfully beautiful rural areas and everything you can imagine in between.
I constantly find refuse that might have a purpose in my hobbies.
sometimes it is just garbage and goes into the recycle bin. sometimes, as with this "tool" it has a great purpose.

I like to have my wheels as close to the chassis as permitted and removing them with standard wheel removers is sometimes impossible. so, this "ball joint fork(LOL)" nicely fits a niche in my tools.

I am sure everyone finds new tasks for objects and sharing such usage might help someone else!


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## ruralradio

Darn it Al, now you've got me wanting crab legs.....


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## Tuxedo

Al, sometimes those are the best tools


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## 41-willys

I just got in trouble with the wife, Got caught taking one of those stupid forks to my work room


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## alpink

LOL :wave:


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## Tuxedo

41-willys said:


> I just got in trouble with the wife, Got caught taking one of those stupid forks to my work room


It's always best to ask first. I asked, and she let me "borrow" one. (She is pretty tolerant of my hobby) The wheel remover, er, mini fork is in my tool box now...............................................


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## alpink

*forgiveness*



Tuxedo said:


> It's always best to ask first. I asked, and she let me "borrow" one. (She is pretty tolerant of my hobby) The wheel remover, er, mini fork is in my tool box now...............................................


LOL, 
I have found that it IS sometimes easier to ask forgiveness than permission!
LOL
your mileage may vary


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## Tuxedo

alpink said:


> LOL,
> I have found that it IS sometimes easier to ask forgiveness than permission!
> LOL
> your mileage may vary


For those whose wives/partners/spouse/significant other are less tolerant than my wife - True enough! 

p.S. she did ask where the fork was today though


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## Dslot

*Such a Deal!*



41-willys said:


> I just got in trouble with the wife, Got caught taking one of those stupid forks to my work room


Keep peace in the family, pull your wheels, AND make five slotbuddies happy, all for five dollars. 

Cheers,
D


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## alpink

*genuine article*



Dslot said:


> Keep peace in the family, pull your wheels, AND make five slotbuddies happy, all for five dollars.
> 
> Cheers,
> D


dang, you found em
good job and thank you


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## vaBcHRog

Glue a couple of neo magnets to it and its a car retriver or the Devils Crane (Think Cranky The Crane from Thomas)


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## Dslot

I wondered about this when I read the original posts, but thought I ought to try it before talking about it.

For less effort than driving to Bed Bath & Beyond (and less money than a set of cheapo fondue forks), I made my own tool from a No.17 (chisel-style) X-Acto blade. I just used a Dremel abrasive cutoff disk to grind a notch a little deeper than axle diameter, then rounded off all four corners and deburred everything with a stone to minimize gouging of plastic or flesh. 










It was probably done at that point, but I slit a piece of basswood scrap and glued it on the blade for a longer handle.










The thin blade-edge slides easily between wheel and frame. I could have ground a deeper notch for more leverage,but the short notch guarantees equal pressure on both sides close to the axle for a straighter pull. It seems to work on my stock Tjet and AFX wheels. If I need more oomph for other types of wheels, I can always make a deep-notch version later - it took longer to take the pictures than make the tool.

As a bonus, the round spot on the blade is a handy anvil for finger-pressing the opposite wheel on the axle - yup, too cheap to buy a wheel press.

I'll admit I don't have anywhere near the disassembly experience of most of the guys on this forum (heck, I was just prying wheels off with a regular Xacto knife or small screwdriver before I read this thread). I can see why a serious competitor would want the extra precision of a screw-type wheel puller. But for a basement racer this little DIY tool seems as good as any other prying tool. Am I missing something that makes this not such a good idea? 

-- D


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## vickers83

Genius! Dslot that looks like it would work real well! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## alpink

*... the mother of invention ...*



Dslot said:


> I wondered about this when I read the original posts, but thought I ought to try it before talking about it.
> 
> For less effort than driving to Bed Bath & Beyond (and less money than a set of cheapo fondue forks), I made my own tool from a No.17 (chisel-style) X-Acto blade. I just used a Dremel abrasive cutoff disk to grind a notch a little deeper than axle diameter, then rounded off all four corners and deburred everything with a stone to minimize gouging of plastic or flesh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was probably done at that point, but I slit a piece of basswood scrap and glued it on the blade for a longer handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thin blade-edge slides easily between wheel and frame. I could have ground a deeper notch for more leverage,but the short notch guarantees equal pressure on both sides close to the axle for a straighter pull. It seems to work on my stock Tjet and AFX wheels. If I need more oomph for other types of wheels, I can always make a deep-notch version later - it took longer to take the pictures than make the tool.
> 
> As a bonus, the round spot on the blade is a handy anvil for finger-pressing the opposite wheel on the axle - yup, too cheap to buy a wheel press.
> 
> I'll admit I don't have anywhere near the disassembly experience of most of the guys on this forum (heck, I was just prying wheels off with a regular Xacto knife or small screwdriver before I read this thread). I can see why a serious competitor would want the extra precision of a screw-type wheel puller. But for a basement racer this little DIY tool seems as good as any other prying tool. Am I missing something that makes this not such a good idea?
> 
> -- D


this why the forum is so great
thank you


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## oneredz

:thumbsup::thumbsup: from me on this one!


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## Jisp

Dslot, what an excellent idea! Such a large part of the hobby is focused on DIY solutions to the more expensive alternatives. I do believe you have just added a very handy solution to such a common, tricky task faced by guys. Great stuff, thanks for showing it.

Cheers,
Michael. :thumbsup:


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## slotcarman12078

Cool idea, with one caution. I have broken exacto blades plenty of times. One really stuck wheel could be it's downfall.


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## Bill Hall

Behold! 

One of Jerry's tricks of the trade. 










The garden variety tack and staple removal tool makes short work of T-jet hubs. Until Jag Hobbies and MEV started carrying Vincent wheels, Win 43 was the Continental source of Vincenzos if you were in a pinch. He made removal of mass quanties of NOS hubs easy peasy. 

For short axles, use normally.
For long axles, use normally; then flip it around and use the broad curve to finish.

*******


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## Tuxedo

I have *GOT* to get one of them tools.........


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## Dslot

slotcarman12078 said:


> Cool idea, with one caution. I have broken exacto blades plenty of times. One really stuck wheel could be it's downfall.


Good caution, Joe. The blade feels flimsy enough that when I get a tight wheel, I don't keep prying, but change angle, start wiggling, or go to the wheel on the opposite side. Maybe the blade is just not quite strong enough for a general-use puller. It certainly slides nicely between the wheel and frame to wedge it out that first smidgen, though. Maybe something thicker can take over at that point.

-- D


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## Dslot

I've got one of those around -- somewhere.

Thanks, Bill. (And thanks, Jerry)

-- D



Bill Hall said:


> Behold!
> 
> One of Jerry's tricks of the trade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The garden variety tack and staple removal tool makes short work of T-jet hubs. Until Jag Hobbies and MEV started carrying Vincent wheels, Win 43 was the Continental source of Vincenzos if you were in a pinch. He made removal of mass quanties of NOS hubs easy peasy.
> 
> For short axles, use normally.
> For long axles, use normally; then flip it around and use the broad curve to finish.
> 
> *******


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## slotcarman12078

I agree the exacto would be idea for the initial movement when it's simply pushed straight in towards the axle. I believe the blades are hardened, which makes them stronger is some aspects, but more susceptible to breakage when bending or twisting.


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## Bill Hall

*A Christmas Story*

I'll tell ya the secret ... but you have to promise not to shoot your eye out.

Hot water! 

Steel axles and plastic hubs have waaaaaaay different rates of expansion. On the rare occasion the wheel doesnt pop right off after soaking in hot water, blanch in cold water; and repeat. Works on all kinds of other uncooperative real world items as well.


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## vaBcHRog

Dslot said:


> I wondered about this when I read the original posts, but thought I ought to try it before talking about it.
> 
> For less effort than driving to Bed Bath & Beyond (and less money than a set of cheapo fondue forks), I made my own tool from a No.17 (chisel-style) X-Acto blade. I just used a Dremel abrasive cutoff disk to grind a notch a little deeper than axle diameter, then rounded off all four corners and deburred everything with a stone to minimize gouging of plastic or flesh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was probably done at that point, but I slit a piece of basswood scrap and glued it on the blade for a longer handle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thin blade-edge slides easily between wheel and frame. I could have ground a deeper notch for more leverage,but the short notch guarantees equal pressure on both sides close to the axle for a straighter pull. It seems to work on my stock Tjet and AFX wheels. If I need more oomph for other types of wheels, I can always make a deep-notch version later - it took longer to take the pictures than make the tool.
> 
> As a bonus, the round spot on the blade is a handy anvil for finger-pressing the opposite wheel on the axle - yup, too cheap to buy a wheel press.
> 
> I'll admit I don't have anywhere near the disassembly experience of most of the guys on this forum (heck, I was just prying wheels off with a regular Xacto knife or small screwdriver before I read this thread). I can see why a serious competitor would want the extra precision of a screw-type wheel puller. But for a basement racer this little DIY tool seems as good as any other prying tool. Am I missing something that makes this not such a good idea?
> 
> -- D


Cool idea why didn't you just put it back in an xacto knofe handle


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## Dslot

vaBcHRog said:


> Cool idea why didn't you just put it back in an xacto knofe handle


It's compact enough to store easily with the wheels, and the wooden handle makes it easy to spot - doesn't look like anything else.

-- D


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## Dslot

*Mark II cheep wheel puller*










My original wheel puller was flimsy. It always seemed on the point of snapping when I used it. Above, you see it alongside the new, improved version. X-acto's larger chisel blade is a quarter-inch wider than the thin chisel blade, and 25% thicker (.025 vs .020). The difference in feel is substantial.

The blade number is #18, if they haven't changed the system in the 20 years since I bought the package.

I ground the axle-notch offset, so it could go straight down next to the bulge in the Aurora pancake chassis. I also chamfered all four corners to prevent gouging, and wrapped the handle end with hi-vis yellow electrical tape. That's it. I feel much better using and advising others to use it than the earlier version.

The only problem I've found is that it's wide enough to snag a Tjet or AFX's pickup shoe when removing the front wheels. You may want to pull the shoe off the little frame nub and move it inboard before using the tool.

Cheers,

-- D


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## slotking

nice tools but my only concern from past experience is any tool that uses a lever action can cause the hole to get tweaked.

that is why I only use wheel pullers now.
keeps the hole nice and round and as tight as can be.


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## alpink

always interested in seeing folkls' work arounds!
I agree with using a htreaded pulling tool whnever possible, but I know that some wheels are just too close to the chassis to get the threaded pulling tool in and this is why we need additional tools and procedures to get the wheel far enough away from the chassis for the threaded tool to be of use.

believe me, when I first discovered Wizzard SillyFoams, I was breaking every other one trying to put the ones made for TYCO (0.59) type axles on AFX/T-Jet (0.62) axles with a tack hammer.
and pulling them off with a screw driver or pocket knife was making the hole out of round. so, I encourage newer enthusiasts to take lesson from those of us who suffered and not make the same errors.
LOL


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## Dslot

slotking said:


> nice tools but my only concern from past experience is any tool that uses a lever action can cause the hole to get tweaked.


Well, there are better and worse methods of prying.










The diagrams assume a notched or forked tool, like the modified chisel blades or the fondue forks discussed earlier. As long as the pressure applied to the wheel is on both sides right at the axle, the wheel moves straight outward without a twist, so distortion should be minimal. 

If I were a serious slot car tuner or competitive racer, I'd want every possible advantage and a wheel-puller would be worth the cost, but as an occasional social runner, I think I'll just continue to pry (although somewhat more carefully than before this thread).

Now that I've been forced to think about it, I notice the notch in my new tool is far too deep. Depth of the notch should be only the thickness of an axle, so I won't absentmindedly push it down too far for a proper axle-level contact. I think I'll make a new one and toss the deep-notch version. 

Thanks for bringing up the hole distortion issue, Slotking.

-- D


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## slotking

np

your correct about the pressing out from the center.
but look at you 1st diagram
because the hub is close to the chassis, you have to start the extraction from the out edge of hub.

so if I can, I press the axle to 1 side to make more room on the other side.

or a small bit of c4 properly shaped shoul blow the hub right off:dude::jest:


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## Dslot

Quite true; quite true. Both statements. 

If the wheel is snug against the chassis, the first 20 thousandths or so of movement is created by pressure beginning at the rim. I'll just have to live with that, I'm afraid.

And a tiny smidge of C4 in the adjacent front axle hole, and tamped by a solid block between the chassis members would probably send the wheel smartly off into the void. Not sure how you'd do the rear, though. Maybe wrap the axle with teeny-tiny det cord (det thread, actually, I guess) to sever it, thus freeing the wheels for removal from the axle remnants at leisure. 

It's Think-Outside-the-Box Thursday. Love it! :wave:

Cheers,
D


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## slotking

LOL

I wonder if the RTHO arm puller wouls work.
it designed to ho under the motor gear???????


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## alpink

dslot, great graphic and thought provoking content.
slotking, I have used that tool for wheel removal, alas the inside diameter doesn't work well with all wheels.

there doesn't seem to be just one tool or method that suits all needs.
so using various methods that are appropriate for specific applications, all described here, should alleviate problems.

and, yeah, tinkerers ar gonna use something different from championship racers.
always has been, always will be.


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## slotking

> I have used that tool for wheel removal, alas the inside diameter doesn't work well with all wheels.


cool

thanks


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## RT-HO

alpink said:


> dslot, I have used that tool for wheel removal, alas the inside diameter doesn't work well with all wheels.
> 
> there doesn't seem to be just one tool or method that suits all needs.


True that is why I make another wheel puller.
But that is the best tool I have found for pulling the stock skinny T-Jet wheels.
My other puller wont fit behind the wheel.


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## alpink

Rick, thanx for weighing in.
I love your tools and have nearly all (maybe all) of them.
second to none in quality.

I wonder if you remember winding me a couple hot drag arms in the mid eighties?
LOL, they still run strong.
drag races don't put much strain on pancake arms.
LOL


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## Dslot

Reading back over the thread it sounds like people are trying to use this type of puller








by wedging the squared hook (on the left end) between the wheel and the chassis. 

Huh?!? 

Surely that thing is meant to go behind the _chassis vertical member_ in order to use the flat side of the chassis to bear on the wheel while the pin moves the axle-end inward. 










Yes? No?

Am I missing something? 

- D


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## slotking

normally it goes behind the hub, not the chassis.
other wise it pushes the axle into the hole.
ok for the front axle but not the back.

i do have a scm puller which is similar to the old slottech puller in the basic design that allows a thinner brace for behind the hub

they no longer make them


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## RT-HO

The tool is designed to fit between the wheel and chassis.
Most racers use aftermarket wheels and longer rear axles.
They use the max width that the rules (tech block) will allow.
That leaves plenty of room to get the tool behind the wheel.


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## RT-HO




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## Dslot

slotking said:


> normally it goes behind the hub, not the chassis.
> other wise it pushes the axle into the hole.
> ok for the front axle but not the back.


So, at least for tightly spaced wheels, you have to pry the wheel off a few millimeters with a prying tool in order to insert the wheel-puller's anvil ...

Okay... 

So here's my MkIII pry-blade.










Made from a #18 X-Acto blade, 1/2" wide. Center notch ground to half an axle-width above the angle change in the blade surface. Appr. 3/32" ground off each side for clearance when using the tool on Tjets or AFX from above or below. This also eliminates the problem of interference with the pickup shoes.
I used a fiberglass-reinforced cutoff disk in a motor tool to do the grinding - very fast and easy.

I cut a popsicle stick in half and filed out a recess for the blade, then epoxied it in, glued the halves together, and sanded the handle enough so the casual observer can't tell what flavor it was, then rounded and smoothed the edges. 

I think this is the final form. Insert it with the flat side to the chassis, until the axle is in the notch, then push the handle inboard to pry.

Cheers,

- D


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## alpink

Dslot, nice work.
I think that your blade wedged in as far as it will go would allow enough room for RT_HO's gear puller.
then no prying need take place.
further research is required.
LOL


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## slotking

> I cut a popsicle stick in half and filed out a recess for the blade,


I am really horrified that you could ruin a beautiful popsicle stick!

OH!! the humanity!

But good job on your pry bar.

But I can say this!!

RTHO makes some great tools, and you might want to put some on your CHRISTmas list:thumbsup:


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