# Flying Sub paint scheme



## =bg= (Apr 2, 2007)

the directions say 'chrome yellow;' I have regular testors yellow. are those two far apart? 
wonder why it wasn't..um..molded in yellow.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Yes,to your question,they are different.The FS is molded in yellow.Get Rustolium Marigold Yellow,it's the perfect color.


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## =bg= (Apr 2, 2007)

i have the mini sub kit. it's lt brown.


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## mrdean (Aug 11, 1998)

=bg= said:


> i have the mini sub kit. it's lt brown.


If you buy a new Mini-Kit, it is Yellow!:woohoo:

Mark D


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Ah.....


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Guys, trust me, use either Rustolium Marigold Yellow or Tamiya Camel Yellow for the hull; I've done 2 build-ups, one of each color for both, and both look spot-on.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Which paint is easier to use seaview primer wise ? I don't recall seeing tamiya camel yellow in the rattlecan section. I have never used rustoleum , how well does it work with tamiya primer ?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

=bg= said:


> the directions say 'chrome yellow;' I have regular testors yellow. are those two far apart?
> wonder why it wasn't..um..molded in yellow.


Well, the big difference here is that Tamiya rattle-can colors are synthetic lacquer-based, whereas the Testors stuff is enamel based.

I went with the aforementioned Chrome Yellow on my build, and was very pleased with the results. Camel yellow (which I found to be too orange for the hull) was used to base coat the lower docking ring, which was subsequently top-coated with Camel Yellow.










I should point out that I'm a huge fan of Tamiya lacquers in general, and go out of my way to use them whenever possible. I've found that they consistently provide smooth, even, durable, fast-drying coverage


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

FYI, I'm taking the liberty of re-posting Gary Kerr's comments re: the FS paint scheme (originally posted to my FS build thread). Gary has spent a not inconsiderable amount of time on this particular subject, and it was his reasonably authoritative feedback that prompted me to go with Chrome Yellow in the first place (that and the fact that, as mentioned above, I think Tamiya paints rock).



Gary K said:


> I've got a small piece of gelcoat from the hull of the 36" "wheels & claws" studio model. I removed the grime & oxidation from the chip with plastic polish, then compared it to my Federal Standard fan deck. The chip is a near-perfect match for Chrome Yellow FS13538.


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## =bg= (Apr 2, 2007)

mrdean said:


> If you buy a new Mini-Kit, it is Yellow!:woohoo:
> 
> Mark D


well....i am painting it this very second, and this is a light beige flying sub.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

I am building my second Flying Sub now, in between building the Jupiter Two.

I elected to Paint this one the recommended "Chrome Yellow" this time. The first one ,the Magnolia Yellow from Rustoleum.

I have to say the "Chrome Yellow", Airbrushed on,to me, Looks the best:thumbsup:

I am very Happy with the results so far.


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## =bg= (Apr 2, 2007)

boy i hope the second coat of chrome yellow helps tomorrow- right now this sub looks like dog meat.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

And what, may I ask, kit build has ever looked like anything BUT dog meat at that stage?
It'll be a BEAUTIFUL Flying Sub when you're done, trust us! :thumbsup:


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

bg, whats the matter with the yellow paint ? Does tamiya chrome yellow come in a rattle can by chance ?


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Ya know, people keep telling me it's lighter than chrome yellow, and I keep saying that's all well and good but I _like _the way chrome yellow looks. Nice to know it actually WAS chrome yellow after all!


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

=bg= said:


> boy i hope the second coat of chrome yellow helps tomorrow- right now this sub looks like dog meat.


Did you prime it first???

I actually used a "close enough yellow" to Prime it. Or I would recommend a White Primer first.

Then the "Chrome Yellow" will go on Nice and Smooth.

I am actually going to do the Blue Pin stripping today...:freak:


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## =bg= (Apr 2, 2007)

i just brushed on the chrome yellow by hand, and it looks blotchy, even after the second coat. i hate this thing was molded in gray. white or yellow would've worked better.


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## Dave P (Jan 5, 2005)

Unless you're very adept at brush painting large, smooth surfaces (I'm not), that's part of the problem. It also needed to be primed first so the color of the plastic will not affect the color of the paint and give the surface some tooth. I, too, am a huge fan of Tamiya's lacquers. They go on smooth, like an airbrush in a can. Being lacquer, the paint is very thin. Primer is a must. The first couple coats need to be very light, otherwise the paint will creep away from the high points and panel lines that will require more coats than necessary to cover. You can order them direct from Tamiya's web site if your hobby shop doesn't carry them or doesn't have the right color.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Still a WIP but I used Testors chrome yellow brushed on over white Krylon primer on my 1/350 resin FS from Monkey Works. 
It took a few thick coats but the brush strokes evened out nicely and to me the color looks spot on. A little polishing with 600 grit film didn't hurt either.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

bert model maker said:


> Which paint is easier to use seaview primer wise ? I don't recall seeing tamiya camel yellow in the rattlecan section. I have never used rustoleum , how well does it work with tamiya primer ?


I used both the Rustolium and the Camel Yellow straight from their rattlecans, layering them onto the bare plastic hulls so as to not lose the wheel hatch details. 
Ask your dealer to special order spray can Camel yellow (which is how I got my 2 cans of it).


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Carson Dyle said:


> Well, the big difference here is that Tamiya rattle-can colors are synthetic lacquer-based, whereas the Testors stuff is enamel based.
> 
> I went with the aforementioned Chrome Yellow on my build, and was very pleased with the results. Camel yellow (which I found to be too orange for the hull) was used to base coat the lower docking ring, which was subsequently top-coated with Camel Yellow.
> 
> ...


That Flying Sub is Gorgeous!!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Definitely. Carson's sub has one of the smoothest finishes I've ever seen. And so glossy!


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

You should see his Proteus! :thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Seaview said:


> You should see his Proteus! :thumbsup:


I have! Smooth as milk !


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