# HO Racing controller



## riclis28 (Mar 20, 2015)

I need to purchase a controller for racing HO scale cars. Which controller would be the best. I want one I can use for T-Jets, G-Jets, G3's. Pretty much want an all around controller. I have looked at the difalco brand and the OS3 PRO brand. Any ideas to which is the best route to go. Money is not going to be the deciding factor.


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## swamibob (Jan 20, 2009)

My personal favorite is my own brand, but I'm only building prototypes right now. that said; Lucky Bob's makes a very good controller for HO racing and is excellent for skinny stock T-jets all the way up to Super Stock and Level 25 cars. 

They're very high quality, sturdy and flexible. Bob can be reached via his website, just google Lucky Bob's Raceway. That will get you there.

Tom


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

i prefer the wiperless controllers, they are very smooth and let run t-jets to superfast NEO unlimited cars.

I have not used the new OS3 controller yet, but my stage III is nice,
BUT
The lucky bob controller cost more, but has some great features.

When I let another guy try it, he said I was cheating! it is that nice (he has an OS3)

some vendors provide choke which reduce voltage for both straights and turns.
Lucky bob's controller has mid range choke so you have reduce voltage for only the turns and full voltage on the straits.
or if you want, you can do normal choke for both


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## super8man (Jan 29, 2013)

Unless you can actually try someone's controller, you simply pays your monies and takes your chances. 

I own two OS3 Pro controllers and I quite like them. I use them for Fray racing of tjets. They have not helped me win any races but at least we can rule out the controller as the reason for me losing races.


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

I have a third eye renegade controller I use for 1/24th and 1/32nd cars, I don't know if I can use it with the ho track or not? anyone know?


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

I do know that some HO racers have used the 3rd eye


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

Steve "Maddman" Medanic has new enhancements for his M-Magic controller. Definitely worth a look. Unlike many electronic controllers, it will work on a two wire track - brake wire not needed. It is my go-to controller for all my racing.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Difalco controllers are very rugged and dependable. It can ruin your whole day if your controller packs it in during a race. Difalco controllers can be used without a brake connection, but all of the features may not work. Electronic controllers are fussy about track polarity, so you have to know what the polarity is before you order a controller. Some Difalco controllers are easily switched to work with both polarities, with others you would have to do a little soldering.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

the lucky bob unit
has a simple toggle switch. the light on the unit tells you if it is neg or pos.
easy peasy

The os3 works with 2 wires for those dumb tracks with no brake hookup

heck back in the 1960;s I could used brakes:wave:


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## LDThomas (Nov 30, 1999)

The Lucky Bob unit is excellent. It required three wires.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

If you run with ECHORR rules the brake connection is not allowed.


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## swamibob (Jan 20, 2009)

Rich Dumas said:


> If you run with ECHORR rules the brake connection is not allowed.


Interesting. I didn't realize that. i'll have to design a 2 wire wiperless with brakes now. That'll be fun! :thumbsup:

Tom


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

> Interesting. I didn't realize that. i'll have to design a 2 wire wiperless with brakes now. That'll be fun!


Check out the steering wheel controller it had brakes

So if they really want t-jet racing to be like the old days, go back to the steering wheel controller or allow brake wires.


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## riclis28 (Mar 20, 2015)

Thanks everyone for your feedback. Still a little unsure about which one to get. Leaning toward the Difalco but still not sure yet. Middle price range and the newest version seems to have a lot of good options.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

the only suggestion I have is get one that can reverse polarity.
this has been mentioned and I concur.
see if you can find someone using one you are interested in and ask to try it


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Designing a controller that has brakes without having a brake connection would be a real challenge. In order to have brakes you need to short across the plus and minus track rails and you can only do that when the power supply is out of the circuit. If the track is wired for brakes the red connection goes to the positive or negative side of the power supply, depending on how the track is wired. With the standard positive polarity wiring scheme the negative side of the power supply goes straight to the left hand track rail looking in the direction of travel. The brake connection goes to the same place. 
If you do manage to get working brakes without using a brake connection it would not be legal to have adjustable brakes. In my experience with most HO cars you would be better off with no brakes than full brakes.


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## RjAFX (Oct 26, 2014)

Parma Plus $39.95 ScaleAuto. I would say the Parma Economy, but for what reason they are out of stock everywhere. I've heard a couple rumors about Parma, I have not heard from Parma.

You can get them in
15-ohm
25-ohm 
35-ohm
45-ohm

35-60ohm will run most all cars, and will run the cars you listed. I have Parma controllers that are 30 years old with no repairs. I like the 45ohm, then the 35ohm, and last the 60ohm. My Wife and Son (36 yrs) both like to use the 60ohm. It seems my younger GrandKids do better with the 35ohm units.

When I buy a couple new Parma Plus 45ohm units I'll be buying a couple Economy 90ohm resistors to convert two controllers for use with the MegaG+ cars that call for 120ohm.

If you watch ebay you will be sure to come across used Parma Economy. If they need new resistors. ScaleAuto has them for $7.95, and they are simple to swap out.


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## clausheupel (Jan 27, 2005)

*What about the PM controllers?*

Hi folks,

I´m wondering why nobody even mentioned the Professor Motor controllers yet?

I got me one of the newer ones with adjustable sensitivity and brakes for X-mas 2010 and never ever since touched any other controller again - regardless the chassis I race! 










From stock T-Jets (and even real touchy, vintage Faller pancakes) over AFX. Tomy, Tyco and even Patriot cars my PM controller is my weapon of choice!

Even over here in Germany many racers upgraded to PM controllers. I still have all those 25, 35, 45, 60, 90, 95, 120 Ohm Parmas for backup (and nostalgia) reasons, but never used one of them for years now.

Just my 0.02 EUR... :wave:

Greetings from the other side of the puddle

Claus


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Claus,
good thoughts.
I too have PM controllers and never mentioned that.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Does anyone use a PM controller with cars that run at 12 volts? We race G-Jets and gravity cars. One of the guys that I race with has an OS3 and a PM. I know that he usually uses the OS3, I will have to ask him how the PM works at 12 volts.
It is really nice if you can try out a controller before you buy it.
As far as Parma goes the situation does not look good. Supposedly they are looking for someone to make the triggers for their controllers. They must not be looking very hard. I know that the tooling for injection moulding is expensive, but Parma controllers are a mainstay of the hobby. Besides the controllers 16D motors have been on back order for a long time.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

I have had 4 of these, Professor Motor PMTR2111 "Club Racer PRO" Electronic Controller, for the home tracks for 5+ years, ran everything from Atlas to modified Tomy & Tyco, they have worked great. My only complaint is that above 20 volts they can get a little twitchy, we run tjets @ 22-24 volts, they still handle them ok. I know the literature says 14-19 volts, but they still work good at low voltages, and the twitchy-ness only shows up above 20+. Very minimal maintenance, I clean the wiper asm with lighter fluid and then a very small amount of tri-flow to lube it back up and your good to race for weeks. I also added my own full power relay setup to them, you get the relay click on wide open pulls, these have a very minimal voltage drop on WOT, but if you want it all you need the relay. 

Boosted


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

even at 18 volts, I did not like the feel of my PM.
It seemed to work fine but something just did not fit my driving style


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