# My 1/350 Round 2 TOS Enterprise WIP



## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Ok I had to break out the big girl and do a basic test fit to truly grasp her size and beauty. She is even more spectacular than pictures can show. The nacelles are so tight , and I dont even have the lock system in place. The saucer will take some work to glue shut , as other threads stated, the 2 halves dont mate up flush . A clamping and gluing a section at a time will take care of that. A little tape is holding this together and she is solid and heavy. Cant really get down to business until the light kit arrives. Note that you need to take time to take out the flash on the nacelles the hull halves, and the middle of the top and bottom saucers. Some putty will definately be needed on this one. Here are a few pics to satisfy some appetites.














































I personally think the grid lines arent very prominent at all. I like them on here.










See camera raised up a bit, the lines are barely visible. Once painted and weathered, I think they will be perfect.










Once the nacelle caps are on it should be just about 3 ft long


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Cool! I'm liking my kit too!


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## Maritain (Jan 16, 2008)

Wow, what a beauty...I think I am in luv!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

I did mine up in a similar fashion and what struck me the most were the nacelles. They truly are massive and, due to their shape, seem so much more substantial than the ones on the refit. They're fantastic!


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Thank you so much for posting your pictures - I really appreciate it.
Can't wait to get my kit next week (fingers crossed).


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Love it! 
Will get me one one day, but its so damn expensive to ship to Germany. 
Not even counting the adds.


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## mikephys (Mar 16, 2005)

WOW! Those pictures just sold a bunch more kits!
Thanks for posting!


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Great pics Jaws! I had to do the same thing the night I got mine. Isn't it amazing how well all the parts fit together. She's very sturdy with just the tape. I'm not having the saucer issue that you and a few others are. Mine fits together beautifully. Can't wait for the deluxe accessory kit to get released. I'm chompin' at the bit to get started on this ol' girl.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*done*

I think he cheated


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## hal9001 (May 28, 2008)

That has truly* GOT *to be one of the ugliest designed Sci-Fi ships to ever come down the pike! You guys actually paid big bucks for* THAT*?  Man!

Just kidding, got mine Wed.! 

HAL9001-


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## eagledocf15 (Nov 4, 2008)

*This is going to be good!*

Keep us informed on the build!!!!


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## Russell morash (Dec 28, 2012)

I was reading on a post that a person perfered to have the hanger bay doors closed I think the shuttle bay is so well detailed that I finihed mine and used the open doors then cut the cloesed door piece and ground down the top to fit . Now I can have the bay closed and take the piece out to show the shuttle bay


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## swbell3 (Jun 6, 2005)

hal9001 said:


> That has truly* GOT *to be one of the ugliest designed Sci-Fi ships to ever come down the pike! You guys actually paid big bucks for* THAT*?  Man!
> 
> Just kidding, got mine Wed.!
> 
> HAL9001-


For a moment there, I thought you were looking at the JJprise...


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Hooked and tsted lights out*

I hooked up all my lights and the bussards and motors to see how they look. Everything goes together quite nicely. The tape connector problems a lot of people were talking about were not an issue with me. I am a noob with lights , but as long as you hook up pos to pos on the tape and MAKE SURE the adhesive backing is pulled back to expose the connections. The black tabs just pull out, insert the light strip and push back in the tabs. Tight strong connection. Great kit from Round 2 and Jamie and his folks out there.


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

AAAUGH! I'd almost had myself convinced I could try a sort of half-baked lighting job, but seeing this means I'm going to have save for one!


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Great work Jaws. Like you, I had no issues with the connectors either - I did use needle nosed pliers to gently squeeze the black tabs shut and also mounted the LED strips with double sided foam tape.
The ligts work very well, one thing I did was sanded the amber teardrops with fine grit sandpaper to diffuse them - I found it easiest to do this while they were seated (not glued) into the holes on the lighting mount.
I noticed that there was a bit of 'grinding' going on in the video, this can be eliminated by pushing the motor a little further into the mount so that the fan part isn't touching the surface of the lighting mount thing.
I also noticed that the motor noise is much quieter when the bussard domes are on.
Thanks for posting.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BruceDownunder said:


> Great work Jaws. Like you, I had no issues with the connectors either - I did use needle nosed pliers to gently squeeze the black tabs shut and also mounted the LED strips with double sided foam tape.
> The ligts work very well, one thing I did was sanded the amber teardrops with fine grit sandpaper to diffuse them - I found it easiest to do this while they were seated (not glued) into the holes on the lighting mount.
> I noticed that there was a bit of 'grinding' going on in the video, this can be eliminated by pushing the motor a little further into the mount so that the fan part isn't touching the surface of the lighting mount thing.
> I also noticed that the motor noise is much quieter when the bussard domes are on.
> Thanks for posting.


I am going to use the foam tape as well. Does it hold well inside. Did you paint the inside of the parts to block the light , or just prime and paint the outside?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Still not sure if I will be soldering or clamping the connections... when I get my light kit.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Sure, the foam tape holds it beautifully. I also used the foam tape to hold down the wires in some places so that they don't accidentally get pulled out.
I haven't actually painted the (I'm going to need to look this up - hang on) Part 42 yet, but what I will be doing is priming it inside and outside with light grey, then on the outside a coat of gloss black enamel followed by Alclad chrome.
The inside will be matt white to enhance the LEDs.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BruceDownunder said:


> Sure, the foam tape holds it beautifully. I also used the foam tape to hold down the wires in some places so that they don't accidentally get pulled out.
> I haven't actually painted the (I'm going to need to look this up - hang on) Part 42 yet, but what I will be doing is priming it inside and outside with light grey, then on the outside a coat of gloss black enamel followed by Alclad chrome.
> The inside will be matt white to enhance the LEDs.


I mean the actual ship itself. Are you painting the inside to light block, or just painting the outside? The part that the tree lights go into definitely needs paint. Bare the stems of the tree bulbs reflect on the holder. I will prime and paint chrome.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Oops, sorry about that.
Heck yes, the inside is sprayed with a couple of coats of rattle can flat black, then the same with grey and finally matt white.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BruceDownunder said:


> Oops, sorry about that.
> Heck yes, the inside is sprayed with a couple of coats of rattle can flat black, then the same with grey and finally matt white.


How did you mask the parts so that the parts that have to glue together remain paint free


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Hang on, I'll go take some pictures...


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Bugger - can't remember my Photobucket password or email.
OK, so what I used was plain old masking tape around the edges of the saucer and B/C deck where the glue will go (eventually). Pressed the tape down into all the crevices so that there's no way any paint can go in there.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Got the bridge started and shuttle bay almost complete. Paulbos etch set is great for light blocking. Shuttle is built but needs painting and decaling still.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Here's a couple of preliminary bridge pics.


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## Griffworks (Jun 24, 2002)

Lookin' good! :thumbsup:


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

That shuttlebay is perfection itself! Bravo! :thumbsup:


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Great work Jaws. :thumbsup:

How are you approaching the light blocking of the bridge? I've been contemplating that for a few weeks now. I'm kinda baffled with it at this point.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Great work Jaws. :thumbsup:
> 
> How are you approaching the light blocking of the bridge? I've been contemplating that for a few weeks now. I'm kinda baffled with it at this point.


Thanks fort the compliments guys. That is what makes this hobby so rewarding.


Prowler , I got the supplemental etch kit from Paragrafix. It covers the areas of the bridge to be lighted. Ill find out if it works once I get the lights attached. Hopefully I wont have the nightmare fit problems with the shuttlebay that people are talking about here. Dry fit , mine fit perfectly.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

For those of you that had problems with the hangar fit, here is mine glued together and dry fitted in the hull. As you can see it is tight, but there are no gaps at all . The slight gaps seen are because I don't have the tape tight enough .The top lights might need playing with to fit on top of the grooves in the hangar. The other bulbs are behind and out of the way , except for the led that goes under the hangar to light the fantail. I don't see any problems with that though. Also the 2 light holders that glue in the hull to hold the flashing beacons don't interfere at all.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Bridge complete*

I finished up the bridge this morning. The etch and decals from Paragrafix really enhances this kit and helps with lighting. I know you wont see most of it when it is in the ship, but I wanted to see if I could get it pretty detailed for my own accomplishment. I have never detailed something so small, but my wife got me an illuminated magnifying head piece last Xmas so I finally tried it out. What a huge help this thing is. Hope you guys like the pics. On to painting and decaling the shuttle.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Added Eduards 1/350 prepainted figures.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Galileo 7*

I just finished up the shuttle today. Came out pretty good I think. So I have B C Deck, the bridge , shuttle and hangar done. SAll main parts are light block ready now. Onto the saucer now. All comments are appreciated.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Nice work on the shuttle Jaws. :thumbsup: I just wish they'd give us two in the kit.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

10 points for getting the decals on, I'm not looking forward to these small nightmares, they look like a pain


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Nice job!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Red SOLO cup, I pick you up, proceed to party!!!


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

The bridge looks awesome! Very nice!


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> The bridge looks awesome! Very nice!


Thanks. I appreciate the comment


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## Sgt Angel (Jan 17, 2013)

*Yikes*

:freak: I JUST GOT THIS KIT...DIDNT REALIZE THERE WAS SO MUCH DETAIL. GHOOD JON, WILL POST SOME OF MY SHOTS WHEN I GET BRAVE ENOUGH TO START IT:tongue:


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## Sgt Angel (Jan 17, 2013)

*Yikes*

That was suppose to say "Good Job" and sorry for the yelling, lol.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Sgt Angel said:


> :freak: I JUST GOT THIS KIT...DIDNT REALIZE THERE WAS SO MUCH DETAIL. GHOOD JON, WILL POST SOME OF MY SHOTS WHEN I GET BRAVE ENOUGH TO START IT:tongue:


That was my problem too. I was afraid to jump in, but once i did i was like a kid in a toy shop. i got the light kit also and it looks great. I just finished priming the sacucer halves and neck. Will put Hull color on next and seal up lights. hopefully pics not too far behind. I am going a little darker with my paint scheme. I am using rustoleum painters touch 2 x coverage gloss winter gray and gloss dark gray. A bit darker , but I like it.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Here is my B/C Deck with bridge finished. Onto the saucer next.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

It DOES look good! Nice job.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Looks awesome Jaws! :thumbsup:


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Got the saucer assembled and lit. I used Rustoleum painters touch 2x Gloss Winter gray . Darker gray is Rustoleum gray primer. A minor light leak, but nothing that I am going to worry about. My flashers work thank god. I saw a fellow modeler say that once everything was glued up, the flashers stopped working. Small video to follow.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Looks great! Glad your flashers are working. Question though. I left my impulse lights clear/white because I don't recall ever seeing them lit up in TOS and I've never seen an instance where they were red. Did you paint them red because they are supposed to be or because the Refit impulse lights are red? Here's mine....


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> Looks great! Glad your flashers are working. Question though. I left my impulse lights clear/white because I don't recall ever seeing them lit up in TOS and I've never seen an instance where they were red. Did you paint them red because they are supposed to be or because the Refit impulse lights are red? Here's mine....


I did it like the refit. They weren't lit on tv I believe. Im thinking about lighting the nacelles too.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

jaws62666 said:


> I did it like the refit. They weren't lit on tv I believe. Im thinking about lighting the nacelles too.


That's what I figured. I also thought about lighting the nacelles, but I chose not to because you never see that on film and I wanted something that was as close to "screen accurate" as possible. A word of advise, I would wire up the nacelles separately on a switch so you can turn them off if you want. That's just what I'd do. Anxious to see how your decals turn out because most of mine broke/tore and it took tremendous effort to "fix" them after application. Plus, they aren't "setting" quite right.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> Got the saucer assembled and lit. I used Rustoleum painters touch 2x Gloss Winter gray . Darker gray is Rustoleum gray primer. A minor light leak, but nothing that I am going to worry about. My flashers work thank god. I saw a fellow modeler say that once everything was glued up, the flashers stopped working. Small video to follow.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very nice. I used the clear for the 4 rectangular lights on the top, looking at yours I almost with I used the opaque. I still may.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

zenomorp said:


> Looks great! Glad your flashers are working. Question though. I left my impulse lights clear/white because I don't recall ever seeing them lit up in TOS and I've never seen an instance where they were red. Did you paint them red because they are supposed to be or because the Refit impulse lights are red? Here's mine....


I did it like the refit. They weren't lit on tv I believe. Im thinking about lighting the nacelles too.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Weathering decals WIP*

For those of you on the fence about the weathering decals, I started on mine. I did the bottom of the saucer first incase they didn't look right. I think they look very nice once applied. They are subtle and not overbearing. My decaling skills aren't my stongest , but im sure you guys wont have any problems getting them on. Let me know what you think. The side and top saucer is next.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

They DO look pretty good.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Weathering decals on saucer are done. Took a few hours to do, but I think they look good. Ill try to do the marking decals tonight.























































The rust ring is subtle , but looks good. Pictures really don't do them justice.


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## Replicator1701 (Aug 28, 2004)

WOW ! looks great. you cant even tell that they're decals. looks air brushed


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Replicator1701 said:


> WOW ! looks great. you cant even tell that they're decals. looks air brushed


Thank you. That is a huge compliment. Took like 3-4 hours, but I love it. Hope to do the marking decals tonight.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Heres a short video of the saucer weathered and lit.


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

jaws62666 said:


> Thank you. That is a huge compliment. Took like 3-4 hours, but I love it. Hope to do the marking decals tonight.


The deflectors didn't keep the space bugs from smearing on the ship? :tongue:


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Saucer and neck finished*

My saucer and neck are 100% completed with weathering decals and marking decals. I think the nacelles will be attacked next. All comments welcomed.


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## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

Question about the weathering decals.:wave:

Shouldn't the weathering decals go on after the ship markings decals?


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

enterprise_fan said:


> Question about the weathering decals.:wave:
> 
> Shouldn't the weathering decals go on after the ship markings decals?


The instructions say put the weathering decals on first.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

enterprise_fan said:


> Question about the weathering decals.:wave:
> 
> Shouldn't the weathering decals go on after the ship markings decals?


No weathering first then marking decals.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Looks great!
First I've seen the weathering decals and I like the effect.


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

What weathering runs under the mumbering & lettering, that doesn't make sense.
When I weather a model, I do it after the decals are on so I weather over top of everything.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

While I agree in principle that the the weathering decals should be applied after the registry decals, it strikes me that the boats that I've been aboard (military, cruise, and civilian) repaint the name/registration text without cleaning the rest of the ship.

Not saying I agree with the weathering decals concept, but throwing out a rationale.


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## neps (Apr 3, 2009)

Really nice! I'm impressed with how well those weathering decals work! Did you employ any of the decal setting compounds? I've found them to be very useful.


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

I plan to do the weathering with pastels before the ship markings. Figure the markings might rub off while weathering.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

BARRYZ28 said:


> What weathering runs under the mumbering & lettering, that doesn't make sense.
> When I weather a model, I do it after the decals are on so I weather over top of everything.


It's a futuristic black paint that repels space dirt.


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## beeblebrox (Jul 30, 2003)

Yeah, what he said. LOL


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

neps said:


> Really nice! I'm impressed with how well those weathering decals work! Did you employ any of the decal setting compounds? I've found them to be very useful.


Yes I used microsol, but just where the thicker grid lines were


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Nacelles Completed*

I got the nacelles finished up this weekend. I lit the inner nacelles just for my own satisfaction. I just used 2 led tape strips on both sides. You can use 2 on each and still be able to light the front light on the saucer. There are enough strips and connectors. I used some weathering decals from the accessory kit. They look ok, but I am going to have to put a dull coat on to hide the gloss that isn't covered with the decals. Small video on it as well.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I chose not to light the trenches in my nacelles but this is a very cool effect. You did a good job with this!


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Lookin' great Jaws! :thumbsup:

I like that you left the nacelle lighting white. I've been struggling with if I should go blue or white. And, I really like the white on yours. So that's helped me to decide.

Keep up the great work!


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Lookin' great Jaws! :thumbsup:
> 
> I like that you left the nacelle lighting white. I've been struggling with if I should go blue or white. And, I really like the white on yours. So that's helped me to decide.
> 
> Keep up the great work!


thanks I was thinking about using blue or purple but it's too much the White was subtle enough but still looks good


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Looking Good!


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Seeing some good ideas here.


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## 79daytona (Jan 24, 2013)

Looking GOOD!!!! And hello all am new to this form. Am also working on the Polarlights 1/350 Enterprise.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

79daytona said:


> Looking GOOD!!!! And hello all am new to this form. Am also working on the Polarlights 1/350 Enterprise.


Welcome and thanks for the compliment. Look forward to see any pics you might have. This is a great site. Lots of good people and resources.:thumbsup:


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## weird (Jul 24, 2007)

Looks great! Can't wait to see the finished product.

I was wondering what adhesive you used to stick the photoetch to the clear parts of the nacelle.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

weird said:


> Looks great! Can't wait to see the finished product.
> 
> I was wondering what adhesive you used to stick the photoetch to the clear parts of the nacelle.


Superglue


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## weird (Jul 24, 2007)

jaws62666 said:


> Superglue


Thanks.


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## eagledocf15 (Nov 4, 2008)

*Kep the updates coming*

Please keep us updated on the progress!
How was the Photoetch in the kit? Any special problems?


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

weird said:


> Looks great! Can't wait to see the finished product.
> 
> I was wondering what adhesive you used to stick the photoetch to the clear parts of the nacelle.


If attaching the grills with CA glue. be either 101% sure where you are placing it beforehand or use a slow setting CA so that you can place the piece correctly.
Another alternative is Clear Nailpolish - and it doesn't cloud the plastic.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

eagledocf15 said:


> Please keep us updated on the progress!
> How was the Photoetch in the kit? Any special problems?


photo etch is great. My only problem is the same one many are having. With the lights in the hangar, the stern doesn't seal up flush. I am all sealed up and have put some putty in the gaps. I hope I can get the paint to match up once the putty dries and hardens. Other than that , everything assembles perfectly.


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## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

Great job so far - I recently got my kit and have been planning out how to approach it. It's educational to see how you've dealt with the challenges.

I was thinking about the impulse engine color and I think I will go with the reddish/orange too. Not only was the refit colored that way, but in this pic

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=168769&stc=1&d=1359503280

the triangular area in the back (if you buy into the idea that the engine room is in front of the impulse-stack) was usually pulsating that color.

Anyway, it's as good a color as any... :tongue:

BTW -can you discern why the secondary hull is not closing together when your dry-fit did? Is it the wiring insulation that is making the overall hanger dimensions bulge?


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

J_Indy said:


> Great job so far - I recently got my kit and have been planning out how to approach it. It's educational to see how you've dealt with the challenges.
> 
> I was thinking about the impulse engine color and I think I will go with the reddish/orange too. Not only was the refit colored that way, but in this pic
> 
> ...


The wiring is what holds it up . Make sure you cut out the observation window as instructed to allow the bulb to fit. My putty is drying. Will paint tomorrow.


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## mikephys (Mar 16, 2005)

Okay...I was initially against the idea of lighting the nacelle trench, but yours looks great! It looks entirely natural to the model. You have done an awesome job! Please keep the pics coming! Mike


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Take her out of dry dock Sulu*

Well I have just finished up my 1/350 TOS from Round 2. What an amazing kit, and what a fabulous time I had putting her together. It is far from perfect, but I am extremely proud of her, and am so happy that I now have a great version of the kit with all the bells and whistles without having to pay over a grand for her from MR. Here are the finished pics and a video at the end.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

*Final lighted pics and video*

Here are the last of the pics plus the video. Hope you all enjoy them. All comments are welcome.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great. Good job on the grey lady!


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

WOW JAWS!!! She looks awesome! :thumbsup: You must be proud. 

And, the inner nacelle lighting is perfect. Just the right amount of glow, and the white is the perfect color. I don't think blue or purple would fit the look.

Congrats on a beautiful ship! :thumbsup:


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

woof359 said:


> 10 points for getting the decals on, I'm not looking forward to these small nightmares, they look like a pain


Yeah, I don't know which is the more definitive word here, "small" or "nightmares." Not for the faint of heart (or eye). What is needed for the model builder is the shrinking ray from _Fantastic Voyage_. That way one can really inject oneself into this project.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Proper2 said:


> Yeah, I don't know which is the more definitive word here, "small" or "nightmares." Not for the faint of heart (or eye). What is needed for the model builder is the shrinking ray from _Fantastic Voyage_. That way one can really inject oneself into this project.


My wife got me a pair of the lit magnifying glass head piece. What a world of difference for painting minute details.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*nice*

cant get over how straight you guys get the nacell decals. I still start and then back off putting them on


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

Awesome job Jaws! :thumbsup:


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## interstellarmodeler64 (Feb 17, 2013)

Jawss62666 Great job on your Enterprise. How did you get the green, yellow and red lights on the fan tail section? The lighting kit comes with a clear fantail piece that replaces part #28. Did you just mask the landing lights and paint the rest of the piece the same color as your hull? Appreciate your advice. Thank you.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

interstellarmodeler64 said:


> Jawss62666 Great job on your Enterprise. How did you get the green, yellow and red lights on the fan tail section? The lighting kit comes with a clear fantail piece that replaces part #28. Did you just mask the landing lights and paint the rest of the piece the same color as your hull? Appreciate your advice. Thank you.


Thanks. I had the Paragrafix photo etch set and the window masks from Aztec Dummy. I applied the etch , masked the fantail lights, and painted it the hull color. I then removed the masks and used a couple of coats of Tamiyas clear red, green, and amber on the lights.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

woof359 said:


> cant get over how straight you guys get the nacell decals. I still start and then back off putting them on


What I've done in the past is use a strip of masking tape as a guide. Trim the decal as close as possible to the numbers and letters then lay the masking tape down nice and straight just underneath where the decal is going to be layed. Then lay the wet decal down right above and up against the tape. Once the decal sets up but isn't completely dry pull off the masking tape and the decal should be straight.


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## Moderbuilderzero (Mar 29, 2013)

Jaws, that looks Fantabulous! Great job on building, and lighting her. Does the kit have flashing red & green nav beacons on the saucer, or did I miss that? I'm planning on using the Evans Light kit in mine, since I like the TenaControls LED bussards, as opposed to the R2 motors, which I think may eventually go belly up.

Really a great job there on your build, to be sure! I have my Premier kit to work on next build, and your thread will come in handy. What was your overall hull color, btw? Looks very good to me.

Thanks for any advice you can give.

Sincerely,
MBZ.:wave:


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Moderbuilderzero said:


> Jaws, that looks Fantabulous! Great job on building, and lighting her. Does the kit have flashing red & green nav beacons on the saucer, or did I miss that? I'm planning on using the Evans Light kit in mine, since I like the TenaControls LED bussards, as opposed to the R2 motors, which I think may eventually go belly up.
> 
> Really a great job there on your build, to be sure! I have my Premier kit to work on next build, and your thread will come in handy. What was your overall hull color, btw? Looks very good to me.
> 
> ...


Thanks, there are flashing red and green on top of the saucer, the lower saucer is flashing white. My hull color was Rustoleum painters choice winter grey. the Round 2 light kit was idiot proof as I am an electronics noob. Any questions feel free to ask


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Jaws, she looks great! This is the first TOS Enterprise I've seen with the inner nacelle grills lit.


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