# My polar lights 1701-A progress



## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Here are some progress pics of my second and improved 1/350 Enterprise. I finished up the saucer (almost), I am starting on the secondary hull. 

http://forums.scalehobby.com/viewthread.php?tid=4443


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Here are some progress pics of my second and improved 1/350 Enterprise. I finished up the saucer (almost), I am starting on the secondary hull.
> 
> http://forums.scalehobby.com/viewthread.php?tid=4443


Looks good! What process did you use for the aztecing (what paints)?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Oh ,well that was actually a mixture I came came up with. I used some off white, and a little silver.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Lookin' great! The aztec colors look very good. How much silver did you use? Keep up the good work.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks alot prowler, I used 90% off white and 10% silver.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

Awesome, Trek...I particularly like the secondary hull strongback section and main engineering. The 'engineering blue/green' and it's aztecing is nicely subtle, as it should be. And your primary hull aztecing/panels look sharp as well. Nice job so far!


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks Glue sniffah, actually I have not got to aztec the secondary hull yet. I am almost done with that though. Also, I have to finish up those freaky bluegray sections. Ill post some more pics up later.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Impressive, most impressive!


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## Edge (Sep 5, 2003)

I have to agree, she is coming along very nicely.
Saucer looks very cool.

Edge


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks everyone, any suggestions to further accurize or improve the model wold be appreciated.


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## klgonsneedbotox (Jun 8, 2005)

Very nice!!!


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

Hey Trek,

Great job so far! I am going to be using a few fiber optic strands to do the small lights that came on around the docking ports on the secondary hull, and probably a few around the cargo hatch on the saucer. 

I am curious as to what are the colors that you used for the engineering section. I was planning on a Duck Egg Blue/Confederate Blue-Gray for my details there.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I dont know why the colors that appear in the pics are greenish, they are actually 3 shades of light blue gray. All 3 shades where a mixture. For the lightest shade, I used 85% flat white, 5% light grey, and 10% US Navy blue grey, all from model master acrylics. The darker shade was 75% flat white and 25% US Navy Blue grey. The darkest shade was achieved by simply adding a few more drops of that US Navy blue grey. If you are planning to build the 1701-A ducks egg blue would most likely give out a greenish color. I would recomend US navy Blue gray and the flat white. If you are planing to do the refit, I would deffinetly go with the ducks egg blue , some flat white and some engineering green.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I have more update pics up.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

:thumbsup:I see that! Beautiful work.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Great work Trek! She's looking beautiful. :thumbsup: And, thanks for the detailed paint mixture info.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

No prob


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Looks good!


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## Bryancd (Jun 4, 2005)

Looks great! Any pics with the lights on?


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## dan1701d (Jun 9, 2004)

Wow, great work Trek, all those that have completed one of those refits or showing these build up shots, are making me wonder if I want to try at all, LOL. But I will just cuase I have to, someday.:thumbsup:


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

dan1701d said:


> Wow, great work Trek, all those that have completed one of those refits or showing these build up shots, are making me wonder if I want to try at all, LOL. But I will just cuase I have to, someday.:thumbsup:


I understand completely, I was REALLY afraid to start mine. The hardest part I faced building my first one was the secondary hull construction and figuring out a way to light up the interiors. The rest is just pretty standard.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I just posted some more pics up.


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## Steven Coffey (Jan 5, 2005)

Looks very good!


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## NCC1701-A (Apr 19, 2005)

I have to admit, this one looks really good.

The one main thing that I love is the way you are able to have the bridge light shine on the top hull section to light up the registry area, a few people here have stated that it could not be done with out major compromises in the construction.

So kudo's, it looks really good.

One recommendation if I may, lightly sand the deflector dish with a 1200/1500 sand grit to dull the lamp in the center.

I have tried this with mine and looks/works pretty good. 

Also if you are going to add the spots on the nacelles to shine on the secondary hull and primary saucer section, use spot lamp led and sand around the sides and paint them black, once you have them in place you can diffuse them buy sanding just a hair off the front so it is not so bright.


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## 1701ALover (Apr 29, 2004)

NCC1701-A said:


> The one main thing that I love is the way you are able to have the bridge light shine on the top hull section to light up the registry area, a few people here have stated that it could not be done with out major compromises in the construction.


Yeah...that looks terrific! How'd you do it? Is there actually a spotlight within the bridge creating that spill, or did you mask off the inside of the hull so that internal light would glow through the plastic? Either way, it looks amazing! Good work...can't wait to see the finished product.


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## FoxTrot (Jan 27, 2000)

This has gone from beautiful, to simply awesome! Magnificent work and dedication. Fox


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

NCC1701-A said:


> I have to admit, this one looks really good.
> 
> The one main thing that I love is the way you are able to have the bridge light shine on the top hull section to light up the registry area, a few people here have stated that it could not be done with out major compromises in the construction.
> 
> ...


Thanks! Aww man I would like to trry sanding the deflector to even things out but the problem is it is already painted the clear blue. How about dulcoat, will that work? Ill deffinetly do the sanding thing next time though.Thanks for the advice.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

1701ALover said:


> Yeah...that looks terrific! How'd you do it? Is there actually a spotlight within the bridge creating that spill, or did you mask off the inside of the hull so that internal light would glow through the plastic? Either way, it looks amazing! Good work...can't wait to see the finished product.


Thanks!! Before I began incorperating spotlights in my star trek models, I did alot of research on the Internet. One day I came across Kyu Woong LEE's Refit on Culttvman's site. Here is the link incase someone has not seen it. http://culttvman.com/kyu-woong_lee_s_movie_enterpri.htm

He is the first person to really replicate the spotlight effect on his models. I tried to duplicate and refine his methods stated on the page by using spotlight LEDs instead of bulbs. Also I wanted to come up with a way to make the spotlight more defined in its edges. The trick is in a convex lens that I bought at my local electronics store. I cut the clear part that goes underneath the front of the bridge and replaced the clear part with this lens. The 2mm high mcd spotlight LED is behind the lens. I found that choosing the right degree of convex lenes makes for a real neat spotlight effect. I tried this with a prism and it works good except it gives off a triangular effect and rainbow pattern along with it. So basically it is the same methods that KYU used but with LEDs and my convex lens in a more suitable position, the best part is that the LED apears bright only where the flood is not on all sides of it, so it doesnt hurt your eyes when looking at the bridge when the lights are on.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

That's the best looking spotlight effect on the saucer that I've seen yet. Great work! Could you give us more details on the lens you used? And, how did you mount it?

Awesome!


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks alot Prowler, I dont really know what company produces the lens or too much else about them. When I buy them, they dont even come in a sealed package, they are sold "out of the box". I know that they are really thick small, and they require cutting and reshaping to fit into certain areas or crevises such as the bridge part. I mounted it using a very small amount of all perpose quickset epoxy. For the correct angle. I dont know the exact numbers but I guess the best advice that i have to give is to position it until you get the desired effect. The place I get them at is called Skycraft surplus. I will try to get the number or an email if possible next time i take a trip down there.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

I wonder if the convex lenses out of disposable cameras could work....

Those are very small...made of plastic...and shaping them could be easy. Every One Hour Photo center keeps the disposables that people turn in for processing. These partially dismantled disposables are returned to the film companies to be rebuilt, reloaded with film and resold.

Next time you go to one, simply ask them if they wouldn't mind giving you a disposable or two out of the junk box.

One caution, though...when you crack the case, beware of the flash electronics, that little capacitor that fires the flash can store a bit of a charge and give you a bite if it discharges thru your fingers. :freak:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

> He is the first person to really replicate the spotlight effect on his models. I tried to duplicate and refine his methods stated on the page by using spotlight LEDs instead of bulbs. Also I wanted to come up with a way to make the spotlight more defined in its edges. The trick is in a convex lens that I bought at my local electronics store. I cut the clear part that goes underneath the front of the bridge and replaced the clear part with this lens. The 2mm high mcd spotlight LED is behind the lens. I found that choosing the right degree of convex lenes makes for a real neat spotlight effect. I tried this with a prism and it works good except it gives off a triangular effect and rainbow pattern along with it. So basically it is the same methods that KYU used but with LEDs and my convex lens in a more suitable position, the best part is that the LED apears bright only where the flood is not on all sides of it, so it doesnt hurt your eyes when looking at the bridge when the lights are on.


Bummer ... the link no longer works. Any chance you could provide detailed schematics or something on this? I was extremely impressed with the hull spotlite lighting. I would like to use your technique on my model.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

^ Try this link:

http://www.culttvman.com/kyu-woong_lee_s_movie_enterpri.html


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Awsome suggestion Glu sniffah, :thumbsup: You just gave me an idea. That could deffinetly work.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Awsome suggestion Glu sniffah, :thumbsup: You just gave me an idea. That could deffinetly work.


 
Let me know! Meanwhile I will experiment myself. I'm a cheeeeep sucka and don't like to pay for things I don't need to.

The lenses in those cameras are 2 to 3 mm thick.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> Bummer ... the link no longer works. Any chance you could provide detailed schematics or something on this? I was extremely impressed with the hull spotlite lighting. I would like to use your technique on my model.


OOPS!!! My bad, sorry about that.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Prowler's link is the correct one.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

The second link works.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I have just put up some more update pics.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

http://forums.scalehobby.com/viewthread.php?tid=4443

Here's Trekmodeler's link repeated here so people don't have to refer to page 1 of the thread to check it out! 

Nice job! Man you're a busy beaver...it's a wonder you have time to post!


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## NCC1701-A (Apr 19, 2005)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Thanks alot Prowler, I dont really know what company produces the lens or too much else about them. When I buy them, they dont even come in a sealed package, they are sold "out of the box". I know that they are really thick small, and they require cutting and reshaping to fit into certain areas or crevises such as the bridge part. I mounted it using a very small amount of all perpose quickset epoxy. For the correct angle. I dont know the exact numbers but I guess the best advice that i have to give is to position it until you get the desired effect. The place I get them at is called Skycraft surplus. I will try to get the number or an email if possible next time i take a trip down there.


I go there all the time for my model needs best place ever to get hard to find stuff, in fact thats where I get all my electronics to do my lighting for this kit and the one I am currently molding.

Not far from where I live.

It's in in Winter Park Florida

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PAGEACTION=CONTACTUS


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Hey Thats cool!!!, small world huh? Its quite far from me, i live about 45 minutes away in Kissimmee.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

but its too bad they dont carry timers. I am forced to custom order them from radio shack.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

GLU Sniffah said:


> http://forums.scalehobby.com/viewthread.php?tid=4443
> 
> Here's Trekmodeler's link repeated here so people don't have to refer to page 1 of the thread to check it out!
> 
> Nice job! Man you're a busy beaver...it's a wonder you have time to post!


LOL Thanks, I am almost a week behind schedule on this build up for a client.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

Your client will be VERY happy.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks glu sniffah, I hope so.


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## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Hey Thats cool!!!, small world huh? Its quite far from me, i live about 45 minutes away in Kissimmee.


I need to go back there sometime and look for parts. Getting to Skycraft, for me, has to be an all day trip comming from Auburndale (half way between Orlando and Lakeland). You must live on the north end of town and know a lot of back roads. As anyone that lives in the Orlando area knows I-4 traffic can be a pain in the #$$ any time of day.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

OOOOH, Yea that traffic can be a $%*$#, but I go there so often that Ive gotten used to it.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I have some more update pics up.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I decaled the model today and attached the saucer to the neck, I have some test shot pics up.


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

Hey Trek,

Excellent buildup there dude! I love the painting and lighting you did. 

How did you get the spotlights on the saucer to work so well for you? It seems that everyone else has been having trouble with that.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks, for the larger more obvious spotlights, like the ones on the registries, I used a small thick glass lens that has a curve in it, that creates the nice curve effect when the light is turned on. A bright spotlight LED is behind it. But you have to make sure that you point everything in the right direction, On my last refit model I placed the lens a little too much to the right by accident and the spotlight although turned out cool, it was off center. For the smaller ones like on the engine nacelle ends, the trick is to thin the plastic slightly and leave the area unpainted from the inside and unchecked for light bleeds.


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

And pray tell, where didst thou obtain these small glass lenses?


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

It continues to look awesome Trek!  The lighting is stupendous! Loving the paint job. The subtle difference in the aztec pattern is exactly what I'm shooting for. Thanks for keeping us updated.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

MartinHatfield said:


> And pray tell, where didst thou obtain these small glass lenses?


The lenses can be found here http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/inde...CTION=CONTACTUS
Thanks for the link NCC-1701-A, it is my local electronics surplus store.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> It continues to look awesome Trek!  The lighting is stupendous! Loving the paint job. The subtle difference in the aztec pattern is exactly what I'm shooting for. Thanks for keeping us updated.


Thanks for the compliment Prowler I will continue to keep everyone posted as well as answer any questions.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I have just posted up some more test shots of the model that I took yesterday. I am still working on the base it should be ready some time tommorow. Hopefully!


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## klgonsneedbotox (Jun 8, 2005)

Well, you certainly have kept your word...this one is BETTER than the first one! Excellent work! 

So, are your spots lit from the inside?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks Klgonsneedbotox, the 2 spots on the rear of each of the nacelles are internally lit. Also, the one on the back of the bridge is internally lit as well. I didnt like the way they turned out though, Im never satisfied with those particular ones, I tend to shy away from taking shots model from the behind angles (no pun intended) just because of those spots.


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## dan1701d (Jun 9, 2004)

Wow with each update, can see just how great a modeler you are, she is a beauty!!! I think I said before if mine is half as good I would be happy, but I think I can lower that to if mine is a quarter as good I will be happy, great work. Would love to see some good shots of her in a dark room and dark backround, to get a good sense of the lighting.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Hey Trek,

How many LEDs did you use to light the blue in the nacelles. It looks very evenly lit. I'm thinking of using 2 at each end. And, then I'm gonna build a light box inside lined with aluminum foil. Well, that's the plan anyway. 

What color LEDs did you get for the nacelles?


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

dan1701d said:


> Wow with each update, can see just how great a modeler you are, she is a beauty!!! I think I said before if mine is half as good I would be happy, but I think I can lower that to if mine is a quarter as good I will be happy, great work. Would love to see some good shots of her in a dark room and dark backround, to get a good sense of the lighting.


Thanks alot Dan1701d, I appreciate that. As you know its all about the practice, Im sure yours will make me wish mine was half as good too. I am almost done with the base, i hope I can get some pics up tonight.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Prowler901 said:


> Hey Trek,
> 
> How many LEDs did you use to light the blue in the nacelles. It looks very evenly lit. I'm thinking of using 2 at each end. And, then I'm gonna build a light box inside lined with aluminum foil. Well, that's the plan anyway.
> 
> What color LEDs did you get for the nacelles?


 Ahhh That's my little secret.... just playin, I used 2 jumbo sized white LEDs behind a peice of 2mm clear sheet styrene heavily sanded and dullcoated cut to the size and shape of the flux chiller grill and very carefully glued to the small locater pins holding the chiller clear part in place. Its a great substitute for electroluminecent sheet, neon, or even ccfl's, safer too.


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## NCC1701-A (Apr 19, 2005)

That is kick @$$, awesome.

Alot better second time around, I wish I was at that point, I have just finished the Nacelle Lighting and painting, took me 2 months just to do that.

Guess I am too anal retentive about mine.

One question I need to ask all of you guys, why use leds for the navigational lights and strobe.

I decided to put fiber optic in the same size as the original plastic clear pieces and use one LED for each side, frosted the deflector, and instead of using the clear pieces for windows I decided to use 2 part clear epoxy and fill them all in with fiber

So far outside of the CCFL for the Nacelles, I have wired my refit as to the following:

Each nacelle, 4 led, one for nav with fiber, the other for RCT in the rear wing tip, 2 for spots on the saucer and secondary hull.

Secondary hull - 1 led for shuttle bay room, 1 led for strobe, 1 led for nav, 1 led for nav deflec, 2 red led for photorp, and 2 CCFL's for the secondary hull lighting.

Dorsal - 1 led for lighting, 4 led spots for the side dorsal and saucer back.

Primary Hull - I have 2 led spots for the Top and Bottom Resgistry, 4 led for the nav, 1 for strobe on bridge, 2 for impule and crystal, and 5 for lighting the windows around the B/C decks and the outer rim windows with fiber.

I mean I do not now about you guys but I am going for 100% movie accuracy, I even started mixing 5 different shades for the aztec, and started the weathering process on the Nacelles.

In any case, Trekmodeler looks awesome, love the spots on the primary hull for registry, that is just great, I have seen Kyu's work and he did some fantastic stuff for things that couldn't be done with out the use of off lighting.

Oh and guys, the guy who does all the special recasts - Chris, I mean is building a huge accrute drydock for the ship as well.


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## lastguardian (May 20, 2005)

The Trekmodeler said:


> The lenses can be found here http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/inde...CTION=CONTACTUS
> Thanks for the link NCC-1701-A, it is my local electronics surplus store.



Is there a product or part name I can tell them? How do I describe the lenses?

Shane


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## klgonsneedbotox (Jun 8, 2005)

ncc-1701-a

What size fibre optic wire did you use for the nav lights? I have .4 mm but it's a little too thin...


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

lastguardian said:


> Is there a product or part name I can tell them? How do I describe the lenses?
> 
> Shane


You can ask for small magnifying glass lenses. They dont come boxed they are sold indevidually.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I finished the model's base yesterday and took the photos of the completed model today, I just posted up the pics. Let me know what you guys think.


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## NCC1701-A (Apr 19, 2005)

klgonsneedbotox said:


> ncc-1701-a
> 
> What size fibre optic wire did you use for the nav lights? I have .4 mm but it's a little too thin...


I used a special fiber optic filament used in computer networking then I heat sealed the end, as if it where being used to connect to a fiber optic switch then dremeled the end to fit just enough throught the plastic of the model at all the navigation and strobe lights, polished it til enought light blinked brightly to shine through, and then used a special open/closed circuit to control the timing.

Our company has its own fiber division so I get all I want when I need it.

Works pretty good, its none conventional, but like I said I am going for movie accuracy not model accuracy.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

I just love the way you did the spots for the registries. Can you provide any more detail on how that was achieved, and what kind of lenses you used? I am a bit fuzzy on how exactly you did that.

IMO, that is the best part of your model, because doing the spots tehre I think are the hardest part to get right.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

The Trekmodeler said:


> The lenses can be found here http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/inde...CTION=CONTACTUS
> Thanks for the link NCC-1701-A, it is my local electronics surplus store.



What should I look for on there? Maybe I am just missing it....


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

They probably would not be listed there. I would suggest emailing them or if they have a number listed, call them up and ask them for the smallest surplus magnifying lenses they have.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Trek,

You've done her proud  She's beautiful. Spaceworthy and ready for warp speed. 
Lookin' forward to pics of your next build. :thumbsup:


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Thanks prowler, Ill be sure to post up pics of the next one.


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## lastguardian (May 20, 2005)

The Trekmodeler said:


> When I buy them, they dont even come in a sealed package, they are sold "out of the box". I know that they are really thick small, and they require cutting and reshaping to fit into certain areas or crevises such as the bridge part.


If the lenses are glass, what method do you use for cutting and reshaping them?

Shane


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

I used various rough sander combinations with my dremel. I simply measure, draw the line then place the peice on a vise then keep sanding until its to shape.


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## Boxster (Aug 11, 2005)

I think I will get double Refit and NX01 now! JUST in case, heh heh!

With all the info here, Trekmodeler, you deserve a pat on your shoulder! Have to take all the notes. Thanks for your generous tips!

Would also be scary to even start one because can't afford the lightings yet and to build this babe without lights ain't gonna do justice to the already nice kit.

So, anyone into 1/48 Luft 46' kits and have plenty of spare NX or Refit. Wanna trade?


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