# Craftsman (Poulon) Chainsaw problems



## Ufda (Aug 14, 2008)

I am at my wits end, rebuilt carb, new gaskets and fuel filter, runs and shuts down, regardless of adj screws....any ideas?


----------



## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

When all else fails, I would suggest replacing the fuel lines. Have a good one. Geo


----------



## Ufda (Aug 14, 2008)

Thanks Geo, I forgot to mention that I had already replaced the fuel line, my bad, I did notice when I removed the muffler/spark arrestor that the piston seems to be scored, but can only see the on part of the piston, I hate to keep thorowing $$ at this 25 year old saw, just don't know what to further persue.


----------



## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

how bad is it scored?


----------



## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

When you rebuilt the carb did you soak it in carb cleaner. I use a galllon can of carb/parts cleaner. Have learned to soak everytime I work on a carb.
Dean


----------



## Ufda (Aug 14, 2008)

Thanks for the replies, addressed below.

First off, I can see black lines on the side of the piston through the exhause port that do not appear to be very deep but are definitely filled with carbon. I could not get my finger in far enough to see if I could remove or test the depth with a fingernail. Really hate to try to use a tool to scrape the piston.

Yes, I did thourghly clean the carb, used spray cleaner first then soaked for a couple of hours. The only thing I have not yet done is remove the welch plugs and replace the screens, was told by a "tech" at local shop the most likely that is not needed, as a last resort only. Perhaps I am at the last resort?


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

What is the specific model of chainsaw you have???


----------



## Ufda (Aug 14, 2008)

The model is 358.352161, appreciate any assistance you can provide, thanks.


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Turn your chain saw over and look underneath where the engine sits in the housing. There are (4) screws that anchor the cylinder to the crankcase to the housing. Make sure they are all there and that they are tight, if any are loose then you can have an air leak into your crankcase that may be causing this problem. 

Another thing to check is the insulator between the carburetor and cylinder head, make sure it is also tight.


----------



## Ufda (Aug 14, 2008)

Roger that, I'll check them tonight, I did put a new gasket between the carb and cyclinder and tightened the bolts but will double check them.

Thanks 30yr, y'all been very helpful and I appreciate it.


----------



## Dswensen (Oct 8, 2006)

*Be Careful!*

Ufda,

Be careful with that insulator block between the carb and the engine. I overtightened my carb bolts, cracked the plastic insulator, and had a devil of a time figuring out where the air leak was coming from.


----------



## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

that piece of plastic loves to warp also


----------



## Rhoovis (Sep 27, 2008)

*chain ? on model 358.352161*

Hi

I came across your discussion. I have the same model ( sold as Craftsman). I would like to sharpen my own chain in lieu of having someone else doing it.

I can't find the manual - how do I know which size file and guide to buy.
I am guessing I need 3/16" but it is only a guess...

Any advise out there?

Thanks

Rob


----------



## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

no, that should be a low profile chain, a 3/16" is for a thicker chain, you will want a 5/32" file, and if you have never sharpened a chain before or have never seen it done before, I would highly suggest bringing it somewhere to be sharpened, most places can sharpen it on a machine in less thatn 10 minutes.


----------



## 1lombard (Sep 28, 2008)

Hi guys just signed up. If its a craftsman saw be care full how much money you put into it. They are cheep enough to replace compaired to other saw makes. Any one know any thing about old Lombard saws?


----------



## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

Rhoovis said:


> Hi
> 
> I came across your discussion. I have the same model ( sold as Craftsman). I would like to sharpen my own chain in lieu of having someone else doing it.
> 
> ...


I just picked up a manual sharpening guide by Oregon called Sure Sharp. Works great. Adjustments for angle, pitch and depth. Tool clamps to the bar. Used to do it by eye with pretty good results. This guide makes it alot eaiser.
Dean


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Rhoovis said:


> Hi
> 
> I came across your discussion. I have the same model ( sold as Craftsman). I would like to sharpen my own chain in lieu of having someone else doing it.
> 
> ...


It all depends upon the size of chain you are sharpening as to what size file is needed. Most smaller chainsaws have 3/8" low profile chains and will use a 5/32" dia. file. Mid duty saws may have .325" pitch chain and will use the 3/16" dia. file, while the larger saws may use a std profile 3/8 pitch chain and they require a 7/32" dia. file for proper sharpening.

If you post your model number then we can probably tell you what size file you will need. I would recommend a guide as maintaining the angles free hand is pretty hard to do. Hand filing is best for touch ups to keep the chain sharp, once the chain is dulled to the point of "needing" sharpening, it can take a lot of time to do by hand. I would recommend having the chain machine sharpened and just using a file for touch up. 

Remember when using a file that they only cut in one direction so don't go back and forth with the file or you will wear you file out early. Also always file from the inside of the tooth out.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Pepo (Apr 29, 2008)

*Craftsman Chainsaw*

Hi, haven't been on here for a while and am now messing with an old Craftsman chainsaw that says on the side: "3.7/18" I cannot read the model number well anymore but it is close to 917.51.... The serial number is something like
2479.....1614. The guide bar is a ProAm Rx26911 with also the numbers 
180SKDD076. The saw is still running good but now it has a tendency to try to cut a curve to the left. I need a new air filter and a new nut to hold the guide bar. Anyone out there who can give me some pointers and possibly a lead to a parts manual? Sears has no parts available anymore for this saw but I suspect that is was built be Homelite. Thanks, Alex in Kentucky


----------



## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

In most cases the chain is sharpened incorrectly. Could also be a worn bar but that is far less likely.


----------



## RNLee (Oct 11, 2008)

I just signed up and saw the message regarding replacing fuel lines on the Craftsman 358.352161 Chain saw. The fuel lines on my saw have crumbled and I ordered a replacement kit from Sear (530069216). When I took the carburetor off, there were lots of pieces of fuel line (like elbow macaroni). There were two different OD's on the pieces. The kit that Sears sent me had too large a line so I went to a local shop to buy the correct diameter line to go into the tank with the filter on the end. However, I don't see how to route the two different size lines. The guy at the shop said that there was an adapter to tie in the two different size lines, but I didn't find this adaptor in the saw. He also said that he doesn't work on Sears saws because he can't get the right parts.
Any info on how to route the fuel lines?


----------



## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I can't imagine why anyone would have trouble getting parts for most Sears products. They are readily available from Sears, and in your case from Poulan/Weedeater. The small diameter line should have the fuel filter attached to it and run from the fuel tank to the carburetor in a single line. The larger diameter line runs from the other nipple on the carburetor to the suction nipple on the primer assembly, and then the remaining larger size will run from the outlet side of the primer back into the tank. There may be a small plastic connector piece that may have fallen off in your fuel tank, this will go into the return line and is just there to prevent the line from coming out of the tank.


----------



## RNLee (Oct 11, 2008)

*Craftsman Chainsaw*

30yearTech

Thanks for your inputs. Your instructions were "right on." Other than some challenges getting the tubes through the casing into the gas tank and getting the large diameter tube over the large nipple on the primer assembly, I was able to re-plumb the fuel lines. There was a small plastic connector piece on the tank side of the larger diameter line. I wasn't able to thread the large diameter tube far enough into the tank to reattach this connector. However, as you said, the purpose of the connector is to keep the line from pulling out. Since it took quite a bit of work to get the tube partly into the tank, I didn't feel that it would come loose.

The chain saw started and ran fine.

Many thanks for the information.


----------



## KentBarbara (Oct 20, 2008)

I have found that on most 2 cycle engines when the caeb has been cleaned and possibly new gasket kit, and the screen on the exhaust cleaned it will run if the cylinder isn't scored and ther is good compression,(most engines around 100 lbs or so needed). Usually if there are only a couple of scratches a slight sanding with a brake cylinder hone and if ring is also scratched up, remove from rod and reverse so marks on ring are on intake side. The compression needs to be close to 100 lbs + or - 10 lbs. I had sears chain saw that was scored so bad the ther was no cure without replacing the cylinder, it was toast, no good. It is junk then.
Kent


























-


----------



## KentBarbara (Oct 20, 2008)

*2 cycle Engine problems*

I have found that on most 2 cycle engines when the caeb has been cleaned and possibly new gasket kit, and the screen on the exhaust cleaned it will run if the cylinder isn't scored and ther is good compression,(most engines around 100 lbs or so needed). Usually if there are only a couple of scratches a slight sanding with a brake cylinder hone and if ring is also scratched up, remove from rod and reverse so marks on ring are on intake side. The compression needs to be close to 100 lbs + or - 10 lbs. I had sears chain saw that was scored so bad the ther was no cure without replacing the cylinder, it was toast, no good. It is junk then.
Kent


























-


----------



## Pepo (Apr 29, 2008)

*Craftsman Chain saw*

Hi, well I broke down and took my saw that was cutting a radius to the left to our local saw shop. We are lucky to have a good one, one of those with a bunch of good old timey mechanics. Found out that the saw was originally made by Roper. Also found out that the bar can be reconditioned by grinding the two sides of the slot back to equal height. They did that and installed a new chain. They also took out the automatic chain sharpener, which at first glance is a good idea but then, a good sharpening with a file is much better. In any case the saw works good again although it too is an old-timer just like me. Thanks for the advice. Take care and have fun.


----------

