# TOS 350 Lighting Kit/Accessory Kit



## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

Anyone actually been able to purchase the lighting kit or combo accessory kit? With Christmas coming up, was wanting to tell some family members where they are in stock, but not finding them anywhere.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I purchased the combo kit and am waiting for it to arrive. I have been told it is on its way.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

I paid for a lighting kit last week but have not yet received a shipping notice

Update! Just got shipping confirmation from Cults this morning (12-14).


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## FyreTigger (May 31, 2005)

trumpetpa said:


> Anyone actually been able to purchase the lighting kit or combo accessory kit? With Christmas coming up, was wanting to tell some family members where they are in stock, but not finding them anywhere.


I pre-ordered the Combo-pack from CultTVMan and it arrived yesterday.

Lighting part looks super easy, now having seen the parts and instructions.

But I'm having serious second thoughts about using the weathering decals, having seen them in person. They appear awfully heavy-handed to me. I think I'll wait for others to go first and see what results they get.


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

I think I made a mistake and ordered from a site called trend times and they had it for $116, and it looked too good to be true. I already called my bank to make sure I can dispute if its too good to be true.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

FyreTigger said:


> I pre-ordered the Combo-pack from CultTVMan and it arrived yesterday.
> 
> Lighting part looks super easy, now having seen the parts and instructions.
> 
> But I'm having serious second thoughts about using the weathering decals, having seen them in person. They appear awfully heavy-handed to me. I think I'll wait for others to go first and see what results they get.


I have ordered the accessory pack too and have some reservations about the weathering decals.
If they are a little too 'bold', my plan is to mist them with a light coat of white - which will have the additional benefit of lightening the base colour.
So - painting will be as follows;
Primer
Base Coat
Clear Gloss coat
Weathering decals
Light mist of white (if required)
Clear Gloss Coat
Registry decals
Dullcote


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## MartinHatfield (Apr 11, 2004)

We got a deal through Stevens (our distributor) and we already got the ship, and the pilot accessories. Now I am expecting the lighting/accessory set to show up Monday or Tuesday of next week.


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

$76.47 at www.activepowersports.com
$20.62 shipping to Canada
Part# AMT MKA005
I had to order 1 for the fun of it.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I don't plan to use the weathering decals. I will weather it myself. I will probably just sell the decals to anyone who wants them.


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## FyreTigger (May 31, 2005)

Opus Penguin said:


> I don't plan to use the weathering decals. I will weather it myself. I will probably just sell the decals to anyone who wants them.


I'll be interested to see your approach to the rust ring.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

trumpetpa said:


> I think I made a mistake and ordered from a site called trend times and they had it for $116, and it looked too good to be true. I already called my bank to make sure I can dispute if its too good to be true.


Trend Times is wher I ordered my set as well. They have 2 shops about an hour from my house so I'm not too worried.


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## trumpetpa (Dec 10, 2012)

Swhite228, thanks, makes me feel a little better knowing they at least have a store


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## Prologic9 (Dec 4, 2009)

...the hell. Looks like I vastly overpaid for my lighting kit.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

BARRYZ28 said:


> $76.47 at www.activepowersports.com
> $20.62 shipping to Canada
> Part# AMT MKA005
> I had to order 1 for the fun of it.


I'm really skeptical of this one. This pack which includes the lighting kit, photoetch and weathering decals is going for $170-$200 everywhere else. The lighting kit alone is $140-$150. If you receive this and it's the real deal, PLEASE post that info here. I'm wondering if they have the wrong item listed on their site. No pics or descriptions available. Hmm.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

How the heck are they doing that? Round 2 lists it for $199 on their site, so $76 is below wholesale cost. (They list is as a $119 list price.)


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

jheilman said:


> I'm really skeptical of this one. This pack which includes the lighting kit, photoetch and weathering decals is going for $170-$200 everywhere else. The lighting kit alone is $140-$150. If you receive this and it's the real deal, PLEASE post that info here. I'm wondering if they have the wrong item listed on their site. No pics or descriptions available. Hmm.


Same here. I just got confirmation from Culttvman that mine has shipped. :thumbsup:


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

tardis1916 said:


> Same here. I just got confirmation from Culttvman that mine has shipped. :thumbsup:


Mine too! Woohoo!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

FyreTigger said:


> I'll be interested to see your approach to the rust ring.


Basically was going to mask it off and airbrush the ring.


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

jheilman said:


> I'm really skeptical of this one. This pack which includes the lighting kit, photoetch and weathering decals is going for $170-$200 everywhere else. The lighting kit alone is $140-$150. If you receive this and it's the real deal, PLEASE post that info here. I'm wondering if they have the wrong item listed on their site. No pics or descriptions available. Hmm.


I don't really believe it but the part number corresponds to the accessory pack that includes PE, Weather decals & lighting kit. I am sure it’s a mistake that they may have to honor because the part number. I will not accept it if they put the price up because of their mistake.

By the way I got my confirmation that my lighting kit has shipped as well from Culttvman.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

ActivePowerSports says it's for the AMT/Ertl 1/350 TOS Enterprise!?!? I really hope it's actually for the PL kit!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Just got mine today. Looks intimidating, but I will be checking it out when I am ready to start installing it. I am still waiting on the replacement inner domes from R2 so can't do much yet anyway. I have a break at the end of the month from work which is when I plan to really start working on this.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Has anyone received their Accessory pack from Autoworld yet?


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

BARRYZ28 said:


> $76.47 at www.activepowersports.com
> $20.62 shipping to Canada
> Part# AMT MKA005
> I had to order 1 for the fun of it.


Looks like they took the page down, I can't find it any more.
Let's see if I get an email from them now.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Opus Penguin said:


> Just got mine today. Looks intimidating...


Other than the bussards it's really not difficult (though even that's probably not difficult). I bread-boarded some Easy LED into my ship yesterday and it went together easy-peesy.



BARRYZ28 said:


> Looks like they took the page down, I can't find it any more.
> Let's see if I get an email from them now.


Ditto - guess they decided they didn't like losing money on each order.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Hey for those of us with little electrical skills, will there be a way to test each lighting section installed without burning out bulbs or shorting anything. Also I noticed that with the 2 boards, the one in the deflector housing can be accessed, but the one in the saucer will be sealed shut. Any ideas on how anyone is going to to make that board accessible.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Hey, for anyone that ordered their Lighing/Accessory kit from Autoworld. I just spoke with them, and their shipment got delayed. They will be getting them off the truck and shipping them out next week.

Jaws, I was wondering the same thing. But, I've found that the B/C deck on my kit fits pretty tight all on it's own in the upper saucer. So perhaps I'll just leave it as a friction fit in order to access the circuit board which will be right below.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Prowler901 said:


> Hey, for anyone that ordered their Lighing/Accessory kit from Autoworld. I just spoke with them, and their shipment got delayed. They will be getting them off the truck and shipping them out next week.
> 
> Jaws, I was wondering the same thing. But, I've found that the B/C deck on my kit fits pretty tight all on it's own in the upper saucer. So perhaps I'll just leave it as a friction fit in order to access the circuit board which will be right below.


I found that as well. Good idea


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

I can't even seem to find any place to order it... its out of stock everywhere.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

Nova Designs said:


> I can't even seem to find any place to order it... its out of stock everywhere.


http://www.trendtimes.com/amt-mka005-1-350-star-trek-tos-enterprise-accessory-pack.html


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

BARRYZ28 said:


> Looks like they took the page down, I can't find it any more.
> Let's see if I get an email from them now.


I sent an e-mail earlier to request a refund if the lighting/accessory kit I had on order will now be unavailible. Just received a refund from them.


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Did anyone who ordered from Trend Times looked at their BBB rating first?


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## fire91bird (Feb 3, 2008)

If you're still looking, you might give Amazon a try. At least one of their sellers lists them as available as of this posting.


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

Sparky said:


> I sent an e-mail earlier to request a refund if the lighting/accessory kit I had on order will now be unavailible. Just received a refund from them.


Just got 3 emails from them. dicontinued, refund and no longer carried in their warehouse. Too good to be true.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

Thought it would be something like that. They just messed up the item on the site.

I saw plenty of places to order from last night. Don't have the funds yet, but I think it will continue to be available for quite a while. Only the Premiere kits are out there so far. When the standard kits hit, they will need plenty to fill those orders.


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

I wish there were pics or scans of the weathering decals available so one could see them before shelling out 40-50 bucks for them. I am interested in seeing them and perhaps getting a set.


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

I just bought the weathing decals for the Enterprise. I hear alot about using pastel powders for weathering. I have never done this before. But I assume that I can use a combination of the decals and pastels to get a good finish to the kit. Does anyone have any recomendations as to what type is best for this type of work. This is a new prospect for me and any advice is most welcome! 

Mike


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

HabuHunter32 said:


> I just bought the weathing decals for the Enterprise. I hear alot about using pastel powders for weathering. I have never done this before. But I assume that I can use a combination of the decals and pastels to get a good finish to the kit. Does anyone have any recomendations as to what type is best for this type of work. This is a new prospect for me and any advice is most welcome!
> 
> Mike




Care to scan them in so we can see what we're giving advice on? We can't very well offer advice when we don't know what we're dealing with.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

:thumbsup:


Ductapeforever said:


> Care to scan them in so we can see what we're giving advice on? We can't very well offer advice when we don't know what we're dealing with.


Duct, any closer to the Big E guide


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

Ductapeforever said:


> Care to scan them in so we can see what we're giving advice on? We can't very well offer advice when we don't know what we're dealing with.


I just bought them earlier today online and they will arrive late next week. My question was if anyone had any general advice on using pastel chalk as I have never done this before.

Mike


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

My Deluxe Accessory Pack just arrived (on a Sunday!) from Pacific Hobbies.
I'm happy to say that the photo etched parts are pristine as they are packed in with the weathering decals (which really aren't that dark).
The electrics look like they are very high quality components with nothing cheap or shoddy about the wiring or soldering.
Also, the clear parts sprue is perfect - this is money well spent.
I would take pics but I have to DJ a wedding tonight, so maybe tomorrow.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

wjplenge said:


> Did anyone who ordered from Trend Times looked at their BBB rating first?


Went into it with the understanding that the 2 stores aren't that far away so I wasn't worried.

Today Michael from Trend Times called and told me that they could no longer get the light kit because they are "discontinued from the manufacture" and their supplier can't get more.

I verified they would credit the account and now I guess I look elsewhere.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

swhite228 said:


> Went into it with the understanding that the 2 stores aren't that far away so I wasn't worried.
> 
> Today Michael from Trend Times called and told me that they could no longer get the light kit because they are "discontinued from the manufacture" and their supplier can't get more.
> 
> I verified they would credit the account and now I guess I look elsewhere.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polar-Light...%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390509434122%26

Free shipping too. I'd be quick...


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

My lighting kit did not contain the shrink tubing that I assumed came with it? They mention it enough, did anyone else get the tubing? Otherwise I will HAVE to solder this "solder-less" kit!


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Nope, no tubing here either, but isn't that just for the joints in the wires?


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

BruceDownunder said:


> Nope, no tubing here either, but isn't that just for the joints in the wires?


Mine doesn't have tubing either. The directions say how to use it , but I cant find anywhere that says its included. Guess we will have to buy some . Wonder how small the tubing can be.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

BruceDownunder said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polar-Light...%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390509434122%26
> 
> Free shipping too. I'd be quick...


Wow, thanks for that lead....Ordered!


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Me, too!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Wired up the motor and light board this morning and gave the mechanism a test. It worked just fine and the spin rate, while fast, is acceptable. I will try it again after I further frost my nacelle dome and the "bulbs".


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Fozzie said:


> Wired up the motor and light board this morning and gave the mechanism a test. It worked just fine and the spin rate, while fast, is acceptable. I will try it again after I further frost my nacelle dome and the "bulbs".


Did you hook up the light strip tape to the C wire solderless connectors. The diagram shows black as positive, but I talked to jamie and he said the instructions are wrong. red is pos and blacjk is neg as usual.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

jaws62666 said:


> Did you hook up the light strip tape to the C wire solderless connectors. The diagram shows black as positive, but I talked to jamie and he said the instructions are wrong. red is pos and blacjk is neg as usual.


No, I didn't try that. But thanks for the notice...!


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

jaws62666 said:


> Mine doesn't have tubing either. The directions say how to use it , but I cant find anywhere that says its included. Guess we will have to buy some . Wonder how small the tubing can be.


Yeah, I've never used heat shrink tubing but would like to give it a try. Can anyone (who has the lighting kit) suggest a size for the shrink tubing that would work best with the wires supplied? They make no note of size or kind of shrink tubing to buy in the instructions and I'd like to get moving on this.
Thanks in advance,
Jim


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## MisterM (Oct 17, 2009)

Hunch said:


> Yeah, I've never used heat shrink tubing but would like to give it a try. Can anyone (who has the lighting kit) suggest a size for the shrink tubing that would work best with the wires supplied? They make no note of size or kind of shrink tubing to buy in the instructions and I'd like to get moving on this.
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim


Hi Jim, I know this will sound over simplistic, but get the smallest size that will fit over your wire where it is twisted and bent over. If the heat shrink is to big then it won't shrink sufficiently to hold on to the wire. You will need a small heat gun also. Some folks just use a lighter to shrink it, but I don't recommend it. It's too easy to scorch your wire and tubing when using a lighter or similar. I believe Radio Shack sells a small heat gun just for heat shrink. Sorry, I don't have enough posts to post the url. It is model number GH3003, catalog number 64-202. I also suggest that you practice on a few spare bits of wire to get the hang of it before you commit to your model. 

Good Luck!
Mark


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## Thraken-Sal (Sep 18, 2012)

I made the horrible mistake of actually ordering my accessory kit from Autoworldstore.com, with the thought of since they belong to Round 2, I would get the kit sooner. I sent them an email last week expressing my anger over not receiving it yet since I ordered it the 4th of November. They answered my email with the usual canned apology and an anorexic excuse of it should ship this week.

I'll elieve it when I see it. But one thing is for sure, I'll not buy anything else from them.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Out for DeliveryDecember 17, 2012 - 9:37 am

The mailman comes in about half an hour! I'm so excited to get the lighting kit!


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

tardis1916 said:


> Out for DeliveryDecember 17, 2012 - 9:37 am
> 
> The mailman comes in about half an hour! I'm so excited to get the lighting kit!


DELIVERED! :thumbsup:


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

For those of you that have the kit, is the power supply 12V?
Can you post photos of the motor and how it fits the kit part.
Thanks, Barry.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

The power is 12V. I can take a picture of the motor and part when I get home. Although, I had drilled the hole a tiny bit larger to accomidate a different motor I thought about using but then changed my mind. It seems that was a good idea as it was a good fit, not too tight and not too loose.


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## swhite228 (Dec 31, 2003)

BruceDownunder said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polar-Light...%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390509434122%26
> 
> Free shipping too. I'd be quick...


Restocked! When I checked there was 1 left now they are working their way down from 16 again with 6 sold.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Except they are now $189 as opposed to $170. 
EDIT: And now they're $170.00 again!


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

Got my light kit today and dug in. I built the bussards and the saucer, but could not get those solderless connectors to work, ended up cutting off the connectors and soldering the wires to the strip led.
Any else have a problem with those connectors?


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## Calamus (Jun 8, 2011)

I'm working on installing the lighting kit and can't figure out how to light the windows in the nacelle pylons. There is a major support rib that runs almost directly down the center of those windows and without cutting it out of the way (NO WAY - no droopy pylons for me) I don't see how these were intended to be lit. 

Anyone figure this out yet?


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Calamus said:


> I'm working on installing the lighting kit and can't figure out how to light the windows in the nacelle pylons. There is a major support rib that runs almost directly down the center of those windows and without cutting it out of the way (NO WAY - no droopy pylons for me) I don't see how these were intended to be lit.
> 
> Anyone figure this out yet?


The lights in the pylons were never lit in the series. Just use the dark windows there.


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## neps (Apr 3, 2009)

> I built the bussards and the saucer, but could not get those solder-less connectors to work -- ended up cutting off the connectors and soldering the wires to the strip LED. Anyone else have a problem with those connectors?


The problem appears to be that, for wires labelled "C", you will have to flip the polarities on one end. Looks like someone goofed this up. An easy fix if you have and know how to use a soldering iron, but a pain in the ass if you don't.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

neps said:


> The problem appears to be that, for wires labelled "C", you will have to flip the polarities on one end. Looks like someone goofed this up. An easy fix if you have and know how to use a soldering iron, but a pain in the ass if you don't.


I talked to Jamie about this. He said the instructions are wrong as they show the black wires as the positive wires. He said the red are the positive wires. For the connectors the installation directions are correct. Pull out the black tab, and slide the light tape in , and push thee tab back in to lock. the black tab should not be seen on top of the strip or it is wrong.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Never worked with wireless sockets before. Couple of questions. Is there only one way the sockets will work (meaning lock onto the strips) so you can't screw it up, and if not, can you damage any LEDs or circuitry if you do install it wrong?


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

jaws62666 said:


> I talked to Jamie about this. He said the instructions are wrong as they show the black wires as the positive wires. He said the red are the positive wires. For the connectors the installation directions are correct. Pull out the black tab, and slide the light tape in , and push thee tab back in to lock. the black tab should not be seen on top of the strip or it is wrong.


 I am aware of this. Obviously I did something wrong, but it was easier for me to eliminate the clip and solder the wires than fight with it.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

John F said:


> I am aware of this. Obviously I did something wrong, but it was easier for me to eliminate the clip and solder the wires than fight with it.


How have you been testing the lights. Did you plug everything in at once, or test a section at a time, if so how did you test it


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

didn't test anything, just kinda dove in, probably got a little ahead of myself.
After it didn't work then I tested it ! lol


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> How have you been testing the lights. Did you plug everything in at once, or test a section at a time, if so how did you test it


I have a 12V battery pack that I've been using to test each set as I hook them up.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

jaws62666 said:


> I talked to Jamie about this. He said the instructions are wrong as they show the black wires as the positive wires. He said the red are the positive wires. For the connectors the installation directions are correct. Pull out the black tab, and slide the light tape in , and push thee tab back in to lock. the black tab should not be seen on top of the strip or it is wrong.


Thank you for posting this as I'm sure that when it comes time for me to hook the lighting up I would have been, excuse the pun, in the dark. 
I think it would be a good idea if Round2 put updated instructions on their website in the ery near future as I'm sure there is a significant percentage of modellers out there who don't visit this forum.


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## Commander Dan (Mar 22, 2001)

Perhaps a dumb question, but is the only way to get the clear hangar deck parts by buying the lighting kit?


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Commander Dan said:


> Perhaps a dumb question, but is the only way to get the clear hangar deck parts by buying the lighting kit?


So far, that seems to be the only way. 

Re: The Shrink Tubing- Realy wanted to order the shrink tube on-line but knowing as I do now that I'll have to bring it to the store to size it up it looks like I'll have no choice. Unless someone who has bought it can tell me the size. I have a hard time getting around as of late.
Oh, and thanks MR M. for the reply.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

jaws62666 said:


> How have you been testing the lights. Did you plug everything in at once, or test a section at a time, if so how did you test it


The lighting instructions say, and I quote "check the work of your wiring sub-assembly to ensure it is working correctly before final connecting".
From this statement I gathered, and if I'm wrong I hope Jamie or someone in the know can correct me, that by attaching the top saucer pcb to the bottom pcb using wire "H" and then connecting the power supply using wire "J" you can test the individual components of the the light kit by simply popping them in /out of their corresponding lettered holes? It worked fine when I tested the awsome looking nacell fan/lights, but I'd feel better if someone with actual knowledge of the kit chimed in before someone else does this and burns something out!
It also mentions not pushing the PCB connectors down all the way to get them off easier, but that is pretty academic.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

HUNCH...that's what I did also without any issues.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I tested the Bussard motors and had no issues. Actually one of the fan domes was perfect in its spinning ... no wobble at all. Now I just need the replacement fan dome to finally get here for the other engine.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

RICHjm said:


> HUNCH...that's what I did also without any issues.


did you have any problems with the solderless connectors. How did you get them to work? was there a trick to it


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

What are you guys doing with part #42, the piece that holds the LEDS on the backside and the "Christmas bulbs" on the front side? Painting? Chroming? Something else?


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

Haven't used any of the (C)connectors yet. Just plugged in the lettered wire plugs that had the LEDS on them to check out the flasher sections of the boards; M(nav.) & P(strobe). And the two impulse engine bulbs(N).Had all three M,N and P plugged in at same time,no problems.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> did you have any problems with the solderless connectors. How did you get them to work? was there a trick to it


It looks like they're using the same style connectors that I use - couldn't be easier: slide the two "wings" on the side out; slide the tape into the "trough" with the lights pointing up and the + marked side on the red side of the connector; slide the wings back in place.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Paulbo said:


> It looks like they're using the same style connectors that I use - couldn't be easier: slide the two "wings" on the side out; slide the tape into the "trough" with the lights pointing up and the + marked side on the red side of the connector; slide the wings back in
> 
> Thanks Paul


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Paulbo said:


> It looks like they're using the same style connectors that I use - couldn't be easier: slide the two "wings" on the side out; slide the tape into the "trough" with the lights pointing up and the + marked side on the red side of the connector; slide the wings back in place.


Paul - are they Molex connectors or something else?


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Paulbo said:


> It looks like they're using the same style connectors that I use - couldn't be easier: slide the two "wings" on the side out; slide the tape into the "trough" with the lights pointing up and the + marked side on the red side of the connector; slide the wings back in place.


Paul is exactly right I just tried connecting the tape wit C wires. Works perfectly. Be careful to match up each side of C the right way. The black latch goes under the tape to lock the tape in. Once you try it out it is plain to see. I am a lights noob so if I can figure it out , anyone can.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

RossW said:


> Paul - are they Molex connectors or something else?


I'm not sure what they're using on the circuit board end of the wiring harness. The connectors we're talking about are the ones on the lighting strip end.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Fozzie said:


> What are you guys doing with part #42, the piece that holds the LEDS on the backside and the "Christmas bulbs" on the front side? Painting? Chroming? Something else?


Instructions say lights are brighter unpainted so I don't plan to paint. However I plan to use peices of foil tape on it.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Fozzie said:


> What are you guys doing with part #42, the piece that holds the LEDS on the backside and the "Christmas bulbs" on the front side? Painting? Chroming? Something else?


I tested mine with aluminum foil but will probably be doing something a little more permanent later. I'm thinking painting heavy chrome and then sourcing out some little mirrors. Maybe cut up a piece of thick mylar I have laying around and epoxy the cut pcs. at all different angles?


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Hunch said:


> I tested mine with aluminum foil but will probably be doing something a little more permanent later. I'm thinking painting heavy chrome and then sourcing out some little mirrors. Maybe cut up a piece of thick mylar I have laying around and epoxy the cut pcs. at all different angles?


I was going to try alum foil too. How did it work out for you?


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Fozzie said:


> I was going to try alum foil too. How did it work out for you?


It looked pretty cool with the domes diffused with steel wool but not a permanent solution (I dont want to glue down foil). Painting heavy coats of chrome, carefull not to get any in the holes for the colored plastic bits, on part #42 will be a good starting point finished up with tiny squares of mylar (silver-very reflective) placed randomly and maybe glued to thin plasticard so they can be positioned at varied angles instead of just "flat" on part 42 and then maybe some reflective muffler tape on the insides of the fan blades. Lou's masks for the outside of the fan blades with chrome reflective muffler tape on the insides to reflect the light back at the insides, part 42 in particular.
I would suggest sanding the outside rim of part 42 slightly (so it still has a nice friction fit, but is not forced in as it comes with the kit) so that if there is a problem later you will be able to remove the part without damaging the whole shebang. I may do the same for the motors as they fit wayyyyy too tight for my liking.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

I have to admit that the solderless connectors are a great idea. However, I don't like that they prevent you from making a good glue connection with the plastic on the kit. The raised areas should be higher in order to accomodate the connector clips height. I've already gone through and wired most everything but I think I'm going to pull out the connectors and then solder the wires so the LED tape can lay flat and make better contact with the plastic.


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## Thraken-Sal (Sep 18, 2012)

I ordered my accessory kit from Auto World on November 4th. I am yet to receive any kind of shipping info and it still says processing on their site. I sent an email t them and I got the canned response of their shipment was delayed nd it would ship out this week. Needless to say, it hasn't shipped and this week is rapidly coming to a close. 

IT seems to me that the company which actually makes the kits, and owns Auto World should have had the kits before anyone else did, and yet, those of us who supported them are getting the shaft waiting for our kits.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Yup. I called them last week and spoke with Doug. He told me the same thing. Time is running out this week. Certainly won't be here before Christmas I guess.


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## Kremin (Sep 26, 2012)

so what speed do the bussards spin at ?


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

tardis1916 said:


> I have to admit that the solderless connectors are a great idea. However, I don't like that they prevent you from making a good glue connection with the plastic on the kit. The raised areas should be higher in order to accomodate the connector clips height. I've already gone through and wired most everything but I think I'm going to pull out the connectors and then solder the wires so the LED tape can lay flat and make better contact with the plastic.


I'm thinking of cutting some plastic card to make up the diiference. Or just a nice dab of epoxy.


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## BruceDownunder (Aug 25, 2008)

Hunch said:


> I'm thinking of cutting some plastic card to make up the diiference. Or just a nice dab of epoxy.


3M Double sided foam tape or tabs here.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

BruceDownunder said:


> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polar-Light...%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D390509434122%26
> 
> Free shipping too. I'd be quick...


I just want to let everyone know that this offer is still good as I write this...

$170.99 + free shipping. Best price I have seen.

I ordered mine just before midnight Monday morning; it's due to be here tomorrow.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

jaws62666 said:


> I talked to Jamie about this. He said the instructions are wrong as they show the black wires as the positive wires. He said the red are the positive wires. For the connectors the installation directions are correct. Pull out the black tab, and slide the light tape in , and push thee tab back in to lock. the black tab should not be seen on top of the strip or it is wrong.


Unfortunately if the connectors are assembled as shown RED will not always connect to the + (pos) so you can not go by the directions (because the black tab would HAVE to be seen on top at every other connection) for it to complete the circuit. You can, however, cut the "C" connecting wires in the middle and flip them so that the (now) black wire can be connected to the + (pos) but this could lead to some confusion. I was wondering if this would be a problem when I originaly checked out the "C" wires and their connectors but never having worked with the light tape I gave it a whirl. No go.
Perhaps just cutting the ends off and soldering them directly IS the best way to go as someone stated earlier in the thread.
Someone from Round 2 should address this problem because as it stands it can not work.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Do the supplied strips only have connection points at one end? If they have them at both ends (95% of strips do) then just connect at the other end. :wave:


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Hunch said:


> Unfortunately if the connectors are assembled as shown RED will not always connect to the + (pos) so you can not go by the directions (because the black tab would HAVE to be seen on top at every other connection) for it to complete the circuit. You can, however, cut the "C" connecting wires in the middle and flip them so that the (now) black wire can be connected to the + (pos) but this could lead to some confusion. I was wondering if this would be a problem when I originaly checked out the "C" wires and their connectors but never having worked with the light tape I gave it a whirl. No go.
> Perhaps just cutting the ends off and soldering them directly IS the best way to go as someone stated earlier in the thread.
> Someone from Round 2 should address this problem because as it stands it can not work.


Paul is correct, the connector ends are different on both sides so if one side doesnt match, the other side will . Dont forget once you cut the LED tape the positives will both be on top which means that they will connect differently on each side. i am no lighting guru, as I was confused as well. But i cut a stip and tried it out and everything matches up the correct way with the red as the positivr wires on the connectors.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Autoworld is finally shipping out the accessory kits. I'm glad I paid for the 2 day shipping. Mine is scheduled to be delivered Monday. Just in time for Christmas. :thumbsup:


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## roboterkampf (Jun 29, 2010)

This is unacceptable. I asked for a refund. Does any one know how long that takes? 

Posted to Round 2's Facebook page: 
"How soon should I expect a refund for my $267 order from you? I paid via Paypal on November 2nd. I am now past my 45 day window to file a claim. "Doug" said I would be refunded my money. How long does this take? I should have opened a claim but I TRUSTED your customer service when they said "we are shipping your order this week" for the past THREE WEEKS."


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## 84crossfire (Apr 24, 2007)

So far not impressed with the lighting
Kit have one Bussard board where the 
Led's sit way to high so the face plate 
With Plastic bulbs won't sit down right.


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

jaws62666 said:


> Paul is correct, the connector ends are different on both sides so if one side doesnt match, the other side will . Dont forget once you cut the LED tape the positives will both be on top which means that they will connect differently on each side. i am no lighting guru, as I was confused as well. But i cut a stip and tried it out and everything matches up the correct way with the red as the positivr wires on the connectors.


Wow. You guys are 100% right. Had never worked with this light tape before and had a "moment".:freak: Did not realize the connection sides on the wires were different on both ends. I haven't felt this stupid in DAYS ! Sorry for any panic I may have set off, my bad (brain that is), everything should assemble fine. 
Personaly I'm still not getting a great connection on some of them so would rather solder them so that I dont get the saucer halves glued together and find I've had another "moment", LOL!:drunk:


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

84crossfire said:


> So far not impressed with the lighting
> Kit have one Bussard board where the
> Led's sit way to high so the face plate
> With Plastic bulbs won't sit down right.


Sounds like a defect. I have not heard of anyone else having this problem as of yet. Contact them for a replacement. 
Maybe thats what the little plastic washer is for? Or is it to line up the fan domes better?

I really like the light kit myself, even if I'm having trouble with something as simple as plug and play! Lol. 
The test I did of my bussards after taking steel wool to the domes and adding some tin foil was pretty impressive and if the fans are not funky (pin/tube not straight causing irregular spin) the motors, on mine at least, are reletively quite.
I'm digging the multi colored and clear parts supplied with the light kit and the photo etch is a nice touch. 

An even nicer touch is Pauls photo etch set that I ordered a few days ago! Thats realy gonna step up the game, especially in the shuttle bay! Great job my friend!
And of course Lou's vinyl masks are essential for a fun build. Takes away a lot of the stress of cutting a hundred (more?) little windows of different shapes and sizes. The extras are realy _making _this kit for me, and I cant tell you how long its been since I've had this much fun (with a model). (Hmmm...with a _plastic_ model). 
luckily I can still use paypal without to much trouble!:tongue::drunk::wave:


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I just test fitted the engines after spraying the "Christmas lights" and outer Bussard domes with Dullcoat ( I used steel wool on the inside of the Bussard domes). So far I am very happy with the effect. The only issue I had was the fan dome did not sit low enough so I actually had to trim a slight amount of the shaft to allow the Bussard dome to fit on properly. In any case, other than a loud motor noise, fan speed is good and the lights match pretty well on what we see on the show.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

84crossfire said:


> So far not impressed with the lighting
> Kit have one Bussard board where the
> Led's sit way to high so the face plate
> With Plastic bulbs won't sit down right.


did you press the motors in from the front or the back?
I found it easier to put them in from the back, but you still gotta give it a good push to get the last 1/8th inch or so.

p.s. I had an 82 Z28 with the cfi in it, I miss that car


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

I had to remove the three plastic peices from the inside of part 41 in order for the parts to sit right.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

the circuit board sits on the 3 nubs inside part 41, be sure not to pinch the wires like i did or the parts won't fit right, part 42 sits on the ledge inside 41, it real tight fit, I had to push it down with the end of a paint brush.
Also the clear outer bussard dome has a tab that fits into the notch on part 42, remove that tab and you won't have to worry about positioning #42 perfectly


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## Ensign Eddie (Nov 25, 1998)

Scotty K said:


> I ordered mine just before midnight Monday morning; it's due to be here tomorrow.


Did your kit ever arrive? According to the USPS website, mine has been stuck somewhere between Philadelphia and my house since Wednesday. Beginning to get a little concerned.


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## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

My lighting kit stopped at Atlanta Ga. two day ago to see the sights.:thumbsup:


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

Ensign Eddie said:


> Did your kit ever arrive? According to the USPS website, mine has been stuck somewhere between Philadelphia and my house since Wednesday. Beginning to get a little concerned.


Yep, got here safe and sound. Came from PA to NJ, so it was a rather quick turnaround. I haven't opened the box yet to inspect the contents, but from the outside it looks A-OK.


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

ARGHHHH!!! Mine is sitting in a town 45 minutes away, and I have to wait till Monday :freak:


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

OK, figured out why the light strip/tape (and every other light I would imagine) only works intermittently. Turns out its not the strip/tape at all but the power connecion wires A and B that connct to the wall outlet. Even though I've been handling the wire kit like a vase from the Ming dynasty I still have to wiggle the power connection wires A and B (right at the push fit connection point) to get the lights to stay on. 
I've doubled and quadruple checked this so as not to make an ass of myself again (once today should suffice) and sure enough its got a weak connection. So far all my other lights work perfectly (knock on wood) and I only have a few more to check.
Sheesh! Its no wonder I could not get anything to work correctly, then everything was hunky-dory then nothing etc. Thought I was losing my mind (especially after all the kits I've lit in the past. Zero problems)! I've pulled the strip/tape lighting piece that connects to the upper saucer PCB in and out so many times trying to get it to work that I broke the little black piece that holds it snug. I'll be soldering it as mentioned anyway so no big deal. Not taking any chances with this bird! 
Guess I'll be contacting Round 2 for these two replacement wires and 2 more dome fans (got some crooked ones) but other than that its been a blast.
Also just got Paulbo's photo etch sheet and I have to say I am very impressed. Seems like you keep outdoing yourself Paul, I'm realy blown away. If anyone is on the fence about this purchase, rest assured, this is everything it looks to be in the pics and more! And he shipped it to me at light speed which leads me to believe he's figured out zero point energy UFO propulsion or something. Top notch all around!:thumbsup:


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Yeah, I ran into the same problem the intermitant connection issues with the "EZ" connectors. Ditching them and soldering the lights took care of that problem. :thumbsup:


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## 84crossfire (Apr 24, 2007)

The problem I'm having is a defect one of the discs is fine
All the led's are flush on the surface of the board the other
3 of the led's stand off of the board by a mill so the led sits
Too high in the cone where the christmas bulbs go. 
But the one I got working looks great so far.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

LATE to the show....AGAIN!!! 

Is their a motorized kit for the nacelle's? Slick LED set-up?? I REALLY don't want to reinvent the wheel on the best TOS E that I've ever seen. I'm gonna do the best SPFX version I can. It's the only Sci-Fi that had dignity in the mid-sixty's other than say Invaders,or some Jerry Anderson productions.


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## Ensign Eddie (Nov 25, 1998)

Ensign Eddie said:


> According to the USPS website, mine has been stuck somewhere between Philadelphia and my house since Wednesday. Beginning to get a little concerned.


Apparently the Postmaster General read my message. It arrived today.

Looking forward to digging into it. Although I don't think I'm sold on the weathering decals.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Y3a said:


> LATE to the show....AGAIN!!!
> 
> Is their a motorized kit for the nacelle's? Slick LED set-up?? I REALLY don't want to reinvent the wheel on the best TOS E that I've ever seen. I'm gonna do the best SPFX version I can. It's the only Sci-Fi that had dignity in the mid-sixty's other than say Invaders,or some Jerry Anderson productions.


Polar Lights has produced their own lighting accessory kit (available through Cult's site, for example) but it's way more than just the motors for the engines - the kit covers the lights for the engines, the running & formation/strobe lights plus all window lighten. It's truly one of the best lighting accessory kits I've ever seen, very well thought out.


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## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

My deluxe accessory set came today. :woohoo:

The only bag I opened was the decal and photoetch one. Is it just me or are the decals a little bit too "colorful" for a starship?

PS 
my photoetch is nice and flat.:thumbsup:


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## Thraken-Sal (Sep 18, 2012)

Prowler901 said:


> ARGHHHH!!! Mine is sitting in a town 45 minutes away, and I have to wait till Monday :freak:


Lucky you. Mine still hasn't shipped. Doug told me they were in and if it didn't ship on the 21st he would make sure it would ship next Wednsday. This is total crap! I know at least one other person who ordered his 3 weeks after I did and got his kit in two days. Autoworld SUCKS. This has messed up my plans for my Two week Christmas vacation. Seems like these people can't find their butt with both hands and a roadmap!


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## Ronster (May 10, 2008)

My light set arrived from Autoworld today. The photoetch is not defective either, so it was worth the wait. Now I can get started!


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Y'all are making me nervous about getting it wrong - are there corrected instructions online showing the correct red/black wiring? I'm electrically illiterate, so if it doesn't work I'm fairly doomed.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

John P said:


> Y'all are making me nervous about getting it wrong - are there corrected instructions online showing the correct red/black wiring? I'm electrically illiterate, so if it doesn't work I'm fairly doomed.


The connectors are fairly simple once you get them figured out. It took me a few tries but I did get them to work. 
I posted of my troubles a few pages back in this thread

The ends of the strip are clearly marked "+" for pos and "-" for neg. Red for pos and black for neg. Also the black locking tab on the connector needs to be underneath the strip on the sticky side or it won't work


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## Prowler901 (Jun 27, 2005)

Got my deluxe lighting accessory kit on Monday. Everything was in fine shape. No issues with the photo-etch. I also got my ultra-smooth double density cool white LED tape from Modelers Brand on Monday (kudos to Tom. I ordered it on Thursday). I'll be lighting the nacelle grills with that. Time to get this party started.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Q for those of you who've bought the Accessory pack or Lighting kit: are there only 2 LEDs for the blinking running lights (port/starboard)? Judging by the instruction sheet, there are only 2 'M' connectors/lights. How does 1 LED per side light up both top and bottom saucer lights, especially when I don't think they're the same distance out from the centre.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

They're actually pretty close to being equidistant (within 1/8" or so. I didn't measure, just viz chek.)


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

RossW said:


> Q for those of you who've bought the Accessory pack or Lighting kit: are there only 2 LEDs for the blinking running lights (port/starboard)? Judging by the instruction sheet, there are only 2 'M' connectors/lights. How does 1 LED per side light up both top and bottom saucer lights, especially when I don't think they're the same distance out from the centre.


The led lays flat in the hull between the light lenses, when the led fires it lights the lenses.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Thanks John. Given that there is only 1 for each side, is the blinking apparent in some of the nearby windows?


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

RossW said:


> Thanks John. Given that there is only 1 for each side, is the blinking apparent in some of the nearby windows?


 
Nope, that section of the hull on both sides is sectioned off by the internal support structures which blocks the flashing light from the other parts of the hull.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Has anyone had any issues due to this?










The LEDs are at all ranges of height, some quite tall.

I did test to see if the board seats to the back of the back plate, and it did. But, I will still need to see if the stems on the 'light bulbs' (the colored plastic inserts) will seat completely.

I'm thinking some of the stems may have to be shortened.

Just hope it doesn't vary the intensity/color of the lights too much, at least on the ambers.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

This may be why I am seeing some washout on the smaller bulbs. the amber lights seem to bright and this may be why.


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## TrekFX (Apr 15, 2004)

Could someone please post pix of the nacelle circuit boards, front and back (and the others, why not...). I haven't come across any online, and those who haven't got the lighting kit (yet) may find them informative. We might also get an idea of the height range of those LEDs.


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## BARRYZ28 (Mar 3, 2007)

TrekFX said:


> Could someone please post pix of the nacelle circuit boards, front and back (and the others, why not...). I haven't come across any online, and those who haven't got the lighting kit (yet) may find them informative. We might also get an idea of the height range of those LEDs.


Here you go.


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## tardis1916 (Mar 24, 2004)

Rahn said:


> Has anyone had any issues due to this?
> 
> 
> The LEDs are at all ranges of height, some quite tall.
> ...


I think I had the same problem, I removed the tiny standoffs in the engine and pushed it in further.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

I asked Fozzie about the connectors as I'm working on a supplemental PCB board to plug into the PL one but provide the ability to select from 3 different running light flash rates. He said they were the same as these in the Micro-Mark catalog:










http://www.micromark.com/mini-connector-kit-pkg-of-10,8839.html

I'd like to find the connectors separately from a place like DigiKey, Mouser or Jameco. Anyone know the name/brand of the PL connectors?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> I asked Fozzie about the connectors as I'm working on a supplemental PCB board to plug into the PL one but provide the ability to select from 3 different running light flash rates.
> 
> I'd like to find the connectors separately from a place like DigiKey, Mouser or Jameco. Anyone know the name/brand of the PL connectors?




Wrong info, look at post #137


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

http://www.jst.com/index.html

Sorry, I missed posting the company's website....:wave:


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Thanks teslabe! Those do look to be the same, although as I don't have the kit it's hard for me to tell for sure. Can anyone who has the lighting kit confirm?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> Thanks teslabe! Those do look to be the same, although as I don't have the kit it's hard for me to tell for sure. Can anyone who has the lighting kit confirm?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Sets-Mic...racter_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item27cd9220b1
> 
> I just checked the connectors, and my first post had the wrong size, here is the correct one. It's a 2.0mm, not a 1.25mm. sorry for the error......


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Aw nuts - I already ordered the previous one.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I don't know what thread I was reading about the TOS E and where, how do display it. I have thought about this since Friday. The 11 foot model was photographed off a pipe stand. the problem is that it still takes up real estate. So Far I'vr put a Millinium Falcon on the wall like it was hiding on the surface of a Star Destroyer, a C57D on the wall so you can look into the cockpit, and I have a mirror at 45 degrees looking at the model like it was landed, but no stairs, just the single footpad(?) The 2 Seaviews will be wall displays because I ran power connections hidden in the engine tubes to power everything. 

This brings us to the TOS E. I have decided to hang it from thin steel wire that will provide power to the model, and allow me to use it for a few SPFX shots, being such a wonderful model ans such. I still just sit and look over the parts and marvel at just how GREAT the kit is. It has made me really examine the episodes, behind the scenes stuff and all those screen caps that floor me. I will have hidden (I hope) points to support the model for photo shoots, both upright and upside down! My best Star Trek SPFX was using a PL 1400 scale TOS upside down, with lights on floor shining up, model photographed on a black background, and supported by 2 threads (1 around the back of the dish, the other between the nacelle supports and the engineering/saucer support) The models shadow hides the threads, just remember toe have the camera upside down too! The Big TOS E will have the wire attached to "Wheel Collars" inside the model. I'm also looking at buffed aluminum reflectors inside the B. Collectors. This will be as much fun as a Jupiter 2 Fusion Core mechanically....perhaps.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Just started placing the lights and testing. Wow, those connectors are pretty fragile. I have had trouble getting the lights to stay on. I am almost considering following other's ideas here and just doing a direct solder. I'll keep testing for now. I have them in place in all sections needed in the model. On a good note, the lighting is nice and bright. No worries about not getting light to all windows. However, I see more light leaks, especially in the dorsal and secondary hulls, that may require me having to give the outside a base coat of black ... unless anyone has any other suggestions. The inside was painted black, then a coat of white over it so I thought for sure I covered it all.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> Aw nuts - I already ordered the previous one.


Sorry about that.... It's the same company, send an email and change your order.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

teslabe said:


> Sorry about that.... It's the same company, send an email and change your order.


That's exactly what I did, thanks teslabe. And no worries - they responded with a clarifying question so I hope it won't be long now.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

RossW said:


> Thanks teslabe! Those do look to be the same, although as I don't have the kit it's hard for me to tell for sure. Can anyone who has the lighting kit confirm?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Sets-Mic...racter_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item27cd9220b1
> 
> I just checked the connectors, and my first post had the wrong size, here is the correct one. It's a 2.0mm, not a 1.25mm. sorry for the error......


BTW, is that the saucer PCB in the top right photo from the PL kit? Or is it a custom on?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

RossW said:


> BTW, is that the saucer PCB in the top right photo from the PL kit? Or is it a custom on?


Glad you got in touch with them and are getting what you needed. The board in the picture is the saucer board from PL lighting kit.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Here was a nice surprise.

A poster on another site mentioned his length of LED tape gave enough segments to fully light the ship AND he still had enough to light the nacelles.

I counted out my tape. The instructions call for 17 segments of 3 LEDs. My tape has 24 segments total.

I did notice 2 segments were actually soldered together, rather than the 'cut here' mark.

I wasn't planning to light the nacelles, but I'm sure I will put them to use.


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

I received e-mail from PayPal the other day about their Price Match program, being unfamiliar with it I checked it out and reviewing my purchases and current pricing decided to file a claim for my purchase of the 1/350 accessory kit. Long Story short, if anyone bought the kit for over 167.80 using PayPal and is willing to do a little paper work, PayPal does accept this eBay Link as a price match and refund the difference in the cost of the item.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLAR-LIGHT...059&pid=100011&prg=1005&rk=4&sd=230896135207&


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

Would it be possible to adapt the lighting to an internal rechargeable battery system?

Could anyone explain what circuit alterations would be needed?


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Rahn said:


> Would it be possible to adapt the lighting to an internal rechargeable battery system?
> 
> Could anyone explain what circuit alterations would be needed?


From a power stand point powering the lighting kit from batteries would be easy. The power supply with the kit is a 12V .85A (850 milliamps) wall wart. In theory 8 regular AAs would give you the 12V and supply the PS's max rated amperage for about 3 hours and 45 minutes. That's assuming 400 milliamp hours (mAh) per AA which is about right for the cheap single use batteries. Rechargables, especially the higher end ones have higher mAh ratings so I show this as a worst case scenerio. Also it's very unlikely that the PS in the kit ever needs to provide it's max rating so the lighting kit probably has a max draw of 600-750 mA. Engineers tend to be like Mr Scott and leave themselves some wiggle room.

A lot depends on what you mean by internal. Internal to the model? Internal to the base? Internal to a larger custom base? Or a mix with batteries 1 place and the circuitry elsewhere? I wouldn't reccomend any option putting the batteries inside the model unless you plan to leave the model open so you can access it to change the rechargables as needed since they do wear down in time. If AAs don't fit your space requirements look into 12V RC car batteries as possible alternatives.

You could get your charging circuitry from the off the shelf battery chargers and would need to add switches for the changes. A normally closed reed switch providing power to the lighting kit from the batteries that opens when the power plug is inserted (as it would be to charge the batteries or run the lights from the wall wart.) A "mode switch" for charge battery or run from wall power, replacing the supplied PS with one of higher amperage would make this unneccasary since there would be enough power to do both at the same time, exactly how much higher would depend on the requirements of the charger you use.

You may also want to connect some large fiber optic cable (2mm?) from the LEDs on your charger to the back of the base so you can see the charge status withough having to get visual access to the charger.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Rahn said:


> Would it be possible to adapt the lighting to an internal rechargeable battery system?
> 
> Could anyone explain what circuit alterations would be needed?


Ironically, this past weekend I just finished converting my refit _Enterprise _in the opposite direction--replacing the batteries with an AC adapter.

I love being able to turn it on when I get home and have it lit up all evening. Also, I'm running it at a lower voltage than I was with batteries and, as a result, the brightness of the lighting looks more in scale than it did before.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

wjplenge said:


> I received e-mail from PayPal the other day about their Price Match program, being unfamiliar with it I checked it out and reviewing my purchases and current pricing decided to file a claim for my purchase of the 1/350 accessory kit. Long Story short, if anyone bought the kit for over 167.80 using PayPal and is willing to do a little paper work, PayPal does accept this eBay Link as a price match and refund the difference in the cost of the item.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLAR-LIGHT...059&pid=100011&prg=1005&rk=4&sd=230896135207&


Good to know about PayPal, thanks! How did you find the lower price? Did PayPal automatically find it?


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Proper2 said:


> Good to know about PayPal, thanks! How did you find the lower price? Did PayPal automatically find it?


I was looking on eBay for something else when I stumbled on it and it jogged my memory about the receiving the e-mail so I checked my mail and read the terms, it seemed like it qualified so I submitted the forms they required. It took about 10 minutes but they refunded $32.15 so it was worth it.

[added in edit]
I should clarify, when I say it took 10 minutes I mean to fill out the forms. It took 2 business days to receive the approval and 4 business days for the refund though the approval said it would take 1-2.


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## Rahn (Jun 2, 2009)

My (hopeful) intent was to place the batteries in the secondary hull with a connector at, or near, where the base rod goes.

As far as later access, I would leave the deflector area (the copper pieces) removable.

Something I wasn't sure how to do is have an 'either/or' set up... being able to run plugged or unplugged.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I plan to add an on/off switch so that I can have the lights off even while plugged in. The only other electrical switch will be a dimmer for the impulse engine lights, so they can be off and fade on like the are powering on.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Rahn said:


> My (hopeful) intent was to place the batteries in the secondary hull with a connector at, or near, where the base rod goes.
> 
> As far as later access, I would leave the deflector area (the copper pieces) removable.
> 
> Something I wasn't sure how to do is have an 'either/or' set up... being able to run plugged or unplugged.


When I built my Romulan Bird-Of-Prey I rigged it so it coudl run off internal batteries or from an external power source. basically you need a single-pole, double-throw slide ot toggle switch. Say you use a coaxial style power plug in the stand tube plugging into a coaxial jack in the underside of the secondary hull. You could run the positive wire from the jack and the positive wire from the batteries in common as one leg of the circuit to the lights. motors, etc. Just solder the two wires together to the common wire of your circuit. The negative wire from the batteries and the external jack would run to the outside terminals on oppsite ends of your slide/toggle switch. The center terminal on your switch would be the common to the lights. Pushing the switch one way links the batteries to the light circuit. Sliding it the other way links the external power to the light circuit. In the middle position the common touches neither of the outside terminals and the power is off. 

The downside is you would need to install a switch in your model to access externally. 

The other way to do it might be to install a rheostat switch that turns one way for power from the batteries and another way for external power. It would work by switching one leg of your circuit like the SPDT switch. You might be able to glue the wheel of the rheostat to the a brass rod tied into the back of the deflector dish so turning the deflector dish clockwise or counterclockwise determines the power source. I did this to activate the bussard motors in my 18" Enterperise build. 

These are a couple of ways to do it. I'm sure there are others.


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## Ggg300 (Dec 15, 2012)

*Nacelle light failure*

Has anyone else had problems with the Nacelle lights not working? One PCB works fine, the other has a few issues, one of the always on LEDs is not lit and the blinking lights only work intermittently.

Guess I'll see if Round2 will send a replacement part. Way to late to return to store


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

on mine it has to run for a few minutes before the blinking led's will work right, but after that it seems ok.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Ive noticed the same problem. It starts off not blinking , then it works fine. Don't know why


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## Ggg300 (Dec 15, 2012)

Tried leaving it running for about 1/2 hour. After just a few minutes all but one of the lights started to blink. One of the LEDs that is supposed to be always on still didn't light.

Have to dig out my meter and see if the LED is getting power, don't know if it's a bad LED or bad board. Hopefully, I can get a replacement.


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