# Craftsman chain saw (Oregon)



## Jisake1 (Dec 5, 2004)

I own a Craftsman chainsaw model 358.357230 2.3 that will intermittently start? It ran fine last winter after rebuilding the carburator. I was using it for about an hour and it sputtered and died. I made several attempts to readjust the fuel but no luck. The saw will run for about 5 seconds if fuel is manually sprayed into the carb. I replaced the CJ-8 spark plug, ordered and replaced another carb kit. Saw ran seemed to run pretty good with new carb kit until I reinstalled the chain and bar. Chain is new and bar sprocket is free. It does not labor as if overloaded. The problem seems to be getting the fuel mixture correct. I will get it running for about 10 minutes and then it sputters and quits. I have started with the basic 1 1/2 turns on fuel mixture screws and can never get the fuel to be consistant? Some times runs rich, then when restarts it will run lean. I thought maybe there is a floating restriction in the fuel supply or carb. I pulled the carb back down and blew out the ports with air and rebuilt. Still same problem. I did find the cylinder head gasket blown. I made a new gasket and replaced it. Also inspected the ports for carbon fuel filter, and air filters. 
Now my question. The book that came with the saw indicates compression as as a possible factor. How do I verify if the compression is too low? Note the cylinder walls were not scored when I replaced the head gasket. There is a reed valve between the carb and intake port but appears to seat. Also when the saw does run it appears to suck air OK at the carburator if I place my finger over the intake.
Any last ideas before I send this engine to the scrap yard???


----------



## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

Compression can be checked with a normal automotive compression tester. You want 100+ lb. of compression. If there is no scoring my guess is the compression is ok.

I would suspect the crackcase seal that you replaced is not sealing properly. Hopefully you use sealer on the gasket and around the crank bearings.

Other places to look are cracked/pinched fuel lines or a dirty fuel filter. Check for air leaks around the carb adaptor (manifold) to cylinder seal and the carb to adaptor seal. Also, the reed valve should not be sealed against the adaptor but should have a couple thousands gap.... as the piston comes up in the cylinder, it closes the valve and when it drops it opens it. If it is sealing in normal position then it may not be opening enough to let fuel in.


----------



## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

The Craftsman chainsaw is not made by Oregon (Oregon make bars and chains)...the saw is actually made by Poulan/Weedeater. If it is an older model saw, there is a very good chance that the fuel line that runs up through the handle has cracked. I have seen a ton of these saws with this problem. The fuel line either cracks right at the tank or it cracks in the handle. The crack doesn't have to be large...a small crack won't leak much fuel but it will create enough pressure loss to prevent the carb from pulling enough fuel.

BTW...that carb is an older Walbro. It should be set to around 1 1/4 on the low side and 3/4 on the high side. Setting both screws to 1 1/2 is going to make the saw flood out.


----------



## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

oh, and ditch the champion plug, replace it with an autolite 255


----------



## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

or ngk


----------



## Jisake1 (Dec 5, 2004)

The reference to the Walbro carburator being an older type is of interest. Is there a better carburator or newer carburator available for this type of chain saw? I checked everything else mentioned above and still unable get the rebuilt Walbro to regulate consistently. I dismantled the Walbro again and verified the tolerance for the needles. I even bottom seated the L&H needles all the way in and still runs rich. 
If there is a substitute, can you recommend the supplier?


----------



## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

You might want to check the "lee (or welsh) plugs" (not even sure that is the proper name of them) in the carb to make sure they are still in place and/or not leaking. If you pull off the bottom of the carb where the diapharm is you can find a couple (depending on the model of the carb) foil plugs that cover passages. Sometimes they come loose or are even missing. They can be round and others are long and narrow.


----------

