# Craftsman trimmer 358.796121



## bcibiras (Aug 24, 2006)

I was using the trimmer, as usual, when it quit. No problems previously. Cleaned air filter, added gas, nothing. 

Took it to a local small engine repair guy who has worked on pressure washers, lawn mowers, etc., with good results.

After about 20 minutes, he tells me, "everything looks OK, there is no carb to rebuild (not sure what that means), nothing to adjust, spark plug is good, no blockages found, I can't do anything for you".

I'm not sure where that leaves me. The trimmer looks new enough that he suggested it might still be under warranty, but alas, I bought it in April, 2005.

I'd appreciate any suggestions/advice on how to get the thing running. I am not interested in a $200 trimmer that doesn't work after one year.

Thanks for any help.

bcibiras


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## peppy (Jul 19, 2006)

The carburator has gaskets and diaphrams in it and they get brittle after a while and you have to rebuild them. Aparrently your were in good shape that they did not need to be replaced. As for a repair guy that handed you back a broken piece of eqiupment..... well lets just say I wouldnt call him a "repair guy". He would of figured it out if he was any good. 
First thing is to find out if you even have a spark. That will tell you if you if you have an ignition side problem or fuel/carburator side problem. Those are your two main starting points. Quick question. how old exactly is the trimmer? When I entered the PN, it came up as a 1980's Model.


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## inch_from_crazy (Jul 30, 2006)

358796121 is a new 4 cycle briggs...........i work on them daily, be warned that they need an ounce of oil every hour of use or every 3 tanks of gas. as for the just quitting part, sounds to me like your ignition module


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## bcibiras (Aug 24, 2006)

I bought it new at Sears in April, 2005.

The repair guy said it had spark, with both the original and a new plug. His opinion is some type of compression deficiency due to an internal problem with a piston or valve. His solution - throw it away, and buy a new one.

I think I like an ignition module replacement better. Is this something I can attempt at home, or should I locate someone else to work on it? I did build the house I am living in, and I have a garage full of tools to keep things running. I'm willing to try, I've just not done much with small engines in the past.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

If it had a valve or piston problem, it would show up in a compression test..... his solution? spend alot more money? lmao.....

What did the spark look like? nice blue snap? If it still has a warranty.....? get sears to repair it or replace it (if it has a replacement warranty)


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## snprnut (Jun 19, 2005)

I happened to come across this thread, when searching for possible common issues with the same machine. I don't have any spark, tested switch to make sure its working properly, which only leads to the same conclusion, an ignition module.
Partstree.com shows two types of modules for this machine, one says its n/a, not sure if the other one would be interchangeable.


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## dehrhardt (Apr 1, 2009)

If you contact searspartsdirect.com, they will be able to confirm the part you need. Using the number you gave, if you have a four stroke Briggs on it, the armature magneto part no. is Briggs 699875. The best way to test these is to disconnect the kill wire, then check for spark. If it doesn't spark with the kill wire disconnected, you either have too much gap between the armature and the flywheel magnets, or the magneto is shot.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

There seems to be a mis-understanding or a conflict here. You're getting advice about an ignition coil, while the local shop told you it had a lack of compression.

I'd do 2 things.
1. Test spark, using a spark tester with a gap of about 0.150" to 0.180". That will tell you if the coil is good. If no spark, you must always isolate (disconnect) the coil from the kill circuit to eliminate that as being the problem.
2. If the the spark is good, I'd adjust the valves per the repair manual/owner's manual spec. I had one recently that had insufficient valve lash (gap) due to wear. The wear happened to be due to dirt ingestion, which left the engine in very worn condition, yet it was able to run fairly (not great, but it ran).

As always, the basics are: spark, air-fuel mixure, under compression. Often it's said, air-fuel-spark, but that compression part is equally important.


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## Sir Thomas (Dec 7, 2013)

*Lessons Learned*

Through trial and error and advice from this board I've learned several things especially if you are going to work on several two cycle engine. Compression, Ignition and fuel.
If you can afford it purchase a compression gauge. If you are getting less than 90 psi then check the status of the piston, ring and cylindar walls.
Also get a spark tester. Using the spark plug is not the most reliable way of testing. You can have a weak ignition coil and still get some spark but not strong enough to power the unit.
If the two steps above shows we are ok there, before tearing into the carb check the fuel filter. Better still get a new one an put in a new filter and fuel lines. Check the Primer bulb or just replace it. Sometimes you can check if the engine is getting fuel by taking out the spark plug and pull on it a few times. You'll see puffs of fuel vapors coming out.
Anybody correct me if I'm wrong.


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