# can motor teck questions



## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

i picked up a big block can motor for the landshark chassis and i read this morning that the casing is made out of aluminum.so do you think the arm and mags from the big block would fit in the old style mabucchi(chrome) so i can solder it in the brass chassis? i spect i,ll be tryin this soon but has anybody tried this?thought i ask here first. the big block is the motor with the wires on it.thanx for any thoughts on this.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

joe, measure the two different can across, high and length and get back to us.


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## ruralradio (Mar 11, 2011)

Joe, is that one of Al's (Thurman) motors? Looks just like the motor that's in my anglewinder Landshark, and it's soldered in. You might just try to hit the side of the can with a little acid flux and solder to see if it sticks.


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## ruralradio (Mar 11, 2011)

BTW, those cans are the same size as an HT-50, but the endbells are different, brushes are oriented top and bottom, rather than on the sides.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

al pink and rural thanx for your returns. al pink i just measured the cans and they are the same so that is a plus. and ruralradio that is the best news. you have already soldered one of these bigblocks into an anglewinder so i,ll do a test tonite. my iron is (i think ) 150 watts so it should get hot enough. and yes it came from al thurman or mrt (mark mc vittie) i cant remember at this time. i dont mind takin it apart. but just seems more work and i,m lazy at heart.lol.also with the bigblock you can kinda feel the (thunk) of the power of the mags when you spin the arm slowly! so i hoping that this could be a real burner down the straights and out of the turns! and al pink do you guys drag race with this style motor? just wondering. with the mini motors being used these days they have bumped up the scratch building but i read that they are of weak flesh.whats a boy to do? i,m a bit confused too. let me see... theres a n-10 motor a m-20 and a m-50 arghhh i,m just gonna solder e,m in and run e,m at 12 volts and see what happens.:wave: again thanx al and rural.i can always count on you guys for some good intel and experience


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

no one is using those motors at this time. in the classes they would be legal, there are just much faster motors.
remember, we don't have to handle well through the corners because there are none. LOL
I am always interested in various builds guys are doing, so, please, keep us up to date.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Well Joe, I never messed much with box murders cept for changing brushes and pinions. Then I started with scratch building and needed some flexibility. 

Like anything else you'll get the hang of it. Dont be afraid to 'speriment. The more of them you build the better feel you'll have for what you can get away with. :thumbsup:

As cores go I like to use the later bushed units for performance, but that doesnt mean I wont use earlier versions so long as they are still serviceable. After everything is all shuffled around dont be afraid to ream them if required...it happens. I just "Flute" ream them with the appropriate drill bit. Not everything has to be balanced and blueprinted to full race specs...unless your that weird tard down the street. Every neighborhood has one. 

Super glue gel to hold your upgraded magnets in. Just garge the old turds out with a screw driver and carefully clean (every crumb!) the pockets so the replacements settle in correctly (square). 

Most all their armatures interchange. Other than ohms and shaft length it's pretty much a no brainer, and of course you can always go after market. Once you collect a pile of cores you should have enough shims to fidget with. Dont get too greedy with your set up, a little float goes a long ways towards longevity. A coupla thou is mandatory during normal operation when your loading and unloading the drive train via throttle inputs. 

Never been a big fan of soldering in the entire can myself... but only because it hampers the modular interchangability of the original motor design. I always liked the "riggen install" that used a cocktail fork on either end. Purely because Im lazy. :tongue:

Although trickier to execute, I prefer using micro screws into the rear bulkhead similar to the big scale set ups. Notably your bulkhead has to be solid and the motor's tail should be properly supported to prevent any longitudinal flex. Like soldering the box in, the screwed method keeps your gear set ups from wandering around and IMHO the connection between the motor and the rear axle is the most critical part of any inline.

Good luck Joe!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

here is a lil bit of what was done tonite with the big block can motor. first off i did a small test area to see if the can would take solder and yes it did. so to answer my original question that can will take soldering (thanx rural/pat).and bill puts it clear...just speriment n see what happens!! i like that attitude.thanx al p rural n b.hall. howz bout some ballbearings for the shaft? ya think lol.


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