# Would like to sharpen my own chains...(long)



## Fortune50 (Aug 28, 2006)

Sorry if this seems long, but I like being thorough  . Any advice for a noobie on sharpening/maintaining a chainsaw chain? When should it be sharpened?  Anything to look out for on the chain that would require it to be serviced in addition to sharpening it? I did some reading online and learned quite a bit, but I feel that I still don't have enough info on the topic.  
The chains in particular I"ll be working with are on a new Sears (Poulan) saw w/ an S62 Oregon 18" chain, and an old Homelite XL w/ a 14" bar (not sure of the chain dimensions). The Sears has about 2 fuel tank full’s of use so far-maybe an hour's worth of cutting? The Homelite's chain has probably been sharpened twice before (by a local saw shop) and has been used about 10 minutes since sharpened. 
I think I understand what a "cutter" and a "depth gauge" is. There is mention of "bumper tie straps" or "bumper drive links" that relate somehow to kickback reducing chains and are NOT to be filed, right? How do I tell what they are? Any more info on this?
I get a little bit intimidated with the cutter angles, how to properly set the file against the cutter, in what direction to move the file, how much to file off, getting depth gauges filed correctly so they are the right size & shape, and so forth....I will have a Sears file and guide kit for the Sear's saw (5/32" file), but don't have anything yet for the Homelite. Is there a trick to it, or just practice, practice, practice...


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## repair_guy (May 9, 2004)

I've got two jolly bench grinders that I use a great deal.And your right.and I qoute. " I did some reading online and learned quite a bit, but I feel that I still don't have enough info on the topic" Ya can read up on a topic for years,and while knowing the do's & dont's you still won't the why's & how's until you do your first,or maybe second or third.Go to get your feet wet.

You can use a rat-tailed (round)file whith the same damiter to fit the teeth on tour chain.This is a slower go at it.But if your just a home owner,and not in the business this is the cheaper way to go.

With an eletric chain grinder you really have to watch your stuff.It's too EZ to get hot and that will take all the temper out of your chain.And it wont lest as long.Also you've menchened a deapth guage,all this is,is a guage so you'll know exactly how short to cut down the drags on the chain.While these are important because they pull the wood out of the way that the cutter teeth cuts.You can cut them too much and the chain wont cut(as good),and don't cut then at all and the cutter teeth is going to bounce over the wood and still not cut.These drags needs to be cut only bearly below the cutter teeth for best profromance.

Oh yeah,you can get everytiing you need online at:

www.cutterschoice.com


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The best way to tell when a chain needs to be sharpened is when it stops cutting. By that I mean that when you have to start applying pressure to make it cut it's time. A properly sharpened chain will draw itself into the cut, if you have to apply much force in order for it to cut, then thats a good indication that its time to sharpen the chain.

If you keep forcing a dull chain to cut you will dramatically shorten the life of that chain as you will round the cutter tooth down and more of it will have to be removed in order to restore the edge. The depth gauge regulates the "bite" the cutter takes and as the tooth gets wear the sharp edge will drop below the depth gauge and limit the "bite" the cutter can take. Also forcing a chain to cut will accelerate wear on your bar.

If you do sharpen it with a file, your chains should use a 5/32" diameter file. I would recommend a guide to keep the angles on the teeth as uniform as possible, also remember a file only cuts in one direction so don't stroke it back and forth, always sharpen from the inside of the tooth to the outside.

Depth gauges will not need to be dropped everytime you sharpen your chain only 2 or 3 times for the life of the chain, you should use a gauge to measure the amount of depth gauge to remove, if you take off too much the chain will feed into the cut too fast and stall. Depth gauges are generally set to .025" below the leading edge of the cutter tooth.

The file and guide you have for your Craftsman saw should work just fine on your Homelite as well

:thumbsup:


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## Treeman60 (Apr 26, 2007)

My advice is to go get yourself a granberg handheld sharpener designed for chainsaw chains. I bought one this past fall and have not had a chain sharpened since. The granberg is much like a dremel tool. It comes with complete instructions and several very helpful accessories. Mine runs on 12V right off of my four wheeler which is how I am traveling most of the time when I saw.


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## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

Oregon, Foley Belsaw, Jolly etc. - there are a number of decent units available, but also crap too. You get what you pay for.

Follow the advice above - is good. As for overheating, Granberg makes a product called "Kool Grind," which you apply to the grindstone MODERATELY to help keep the process cooler. Any Stihl dealer can order it for you - is very cheap too.

When you do use a powered grinder, try to keep the arc gradual. This is especially true of "full chisel" chains, which have a pointed leading edge as opposed to "semi-chisel" chain which has a rounded edge. If you have too much of a "hook" at the leading edge of the cutters (chisel chain), the chain will dull quickly. I've attached a crude mspaint drawing to help get this "point" across.

View attachment 74877


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## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

One way I determine if my chain needs sharpening is the shavings. When I start to see more dust than shavings I sharpen the chain. Pressure needed to cut is also a factor. 
I use Oregons Sure sharp sharpener works great.
Dean


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