# A Star Trek V modeling nightmare



## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Hi Folks, I have been working on a Star Trek V USS Enterprise A I bought on ebay last summer. I have built this model several times and it has substantial problems. Besides the detail issues when Ertl modified the mold from its Original Smooth Version they messed up the alignment of the Warp Nacelles. If you glue the nacelle struts right in they are out of alignment with each other. Its noticeable and has to be corrected. My way of dealing with it is too carefully trim away at the bottom of the nacelle struts tabs so they are a little flexable so you can shift the nacelles into the correct postion. The problem is if you trim away too much which I think I did you get a poor bond surface. I tried gluing it in and it kept falling out. I really got annoyed when the nacelle fell out and chipped. The model didn't make it so I am now turning my attention to my First Polar Lights Big Original Enterprise and will have a good time building that. I hope someday someone decides to do an Intermediate Size model of the Movie Enterprise A to replace Ertls model. Guy Schlicter.


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

I once asked Jamie Hood about the possibility of PL updateing the amt refit, he said it was cheaper for them ,PL, to develop a new kit rather than rework the amt tooling. I think the new kit he was referring to was the PL 1/1000 refit, but I could be wrong.


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## GSaum (May 26, 2005)

I've built several of the 1/537 E kits over the years and I must say I've really come to loath these kits. With all of the issues (the pylon issue you mentioned, the horrid engraved lines, the major inaccuracies of the kit) coupled with the fact that there are far superior kits available in other scales (the 1:1000 and the 1:350) makes me wish this kit would die and stay dead. I have to admit that every time I see someone bring this up, I cringe a little. 

All that said, if Round 2 were to make a complete new tool of this kit in the 1/537 scale, I would snap it up in a second. I love the Reliant in this scale and it would be nice to have an accurate representation of the Enterprise in the same scale. However, I just don't see this happening. There are too many other ships that Round 2 could focus on (Akira-not my personal favorite, but recognized as a kit with high demand from fans, the Oberth, and new sculpts of the C, D, and E in 1:1000 scale) and so I just don't see them making a new sculpt of the E in 1:537 any time soon.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

John F said:


> I once asked Jamie Hood about the possibility of PL updateing the amt refit, he said it was cheaper for them ,PL, to develop a new kit rather than rework the amt tooling. I think the new kit he was referring to was the PL 1/1000 refit, but I could be wrong.


I've read statements from PL in the past(don't know exactly who, might even have been during PL's first incarnation) that the AMT's Refit mold could never practically be reworked to return it to producing "smoothie" versions.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

That was actually a lot more recent and the subject of possible re-issuing of the AMT Refit was discussed as R2 was looking to re-issuing the entire AMT Trek line eventually.

Given that each re-issued model gets some form of improvements, the list of improvements needed for the Refit is so long, it really would be more practical to re-do the entire ship as a new mold.

Will that happen? Doesn't look too likely, as the 1/1000 and 1/350 Refits fill the gaps nicely, although the approximately 23" long AMT Refit is a nice size for display.

Now, having said all that, I've got a number of AMT Refits (about 8, I think) that I've obtained over the years and most I got partially assembled, but otherwise complete. It'd be easier just to finish building them, but painting them properly will take some time.

I LOVE this ship and even the AMT kit doesn't look bad once you overcome (or can overlook) most of the problems with the kit.


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## Tuvok (Feb 16, 2013)

i have built plenty of these kits in my life time , for me personally the only real difficulty was getting the warp pylons to stay without sagging or breaking
other then that i found it to be a decent kit for when i was younger , certainly wouldnt be my first choice now that i have the 350 but im definetly interested in this kit for parts


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

And this is why my "Lights and Sounds" ERTL kit sits in the closet. 

I would love more than anything a "Polar Lights" version matching the Reliant but as others have said it's not very likely. Sad because many of us would like something between tiny and "I want a divorce". :freak:


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## Bay7 (Nov 8, 1999)

I first started buying star trek kits when the Star Trek IV version came out - I found that one went together quite well, I always found it ironic that the Star Trek V version didn't, as it seemed to be mirroring the 1701-A in the movie.

The star trek VI version wasn't much better but there had been some modifications to the fit since the light and sounds version.

I hated gluing the engines on most of the ERTL ships - I always used to think it'd be easier trying to build _real _engines than to get these to go on straight - and once they'd snapped off, I could NEVER get them to glue back on!

It's a nice scale, the PL versions are too big and too small for my tastes - if they have re-popped the AMT version with all its flaws (then do a newly tooled 1/1000 and 1/350), why not re-pop the movie version too?


Steve


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## Heero Kasshu (Dec 19, 2012)

currently working on a smoothy! not going to bother making it accurate, just paint and decal it nicely and call it a day..........

Any suggestions about reinfocement for the pylons?


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## Tuvok (Feb 16, 2013)

Super glue them and make sure they are good and set before installing the warp engines
Use gel superglue it will give you that extra time needed to get the part incerted


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## MLCrisis32 (Oct 11, 2011)

Tuvok said:


> Super glue them and make sure they are good and set before installing the warp engines
> Use gel superglue it will give you that extra time needed to get the part incerted


That's my biggest issue (if I remember correctly) that without the engines on the pylons I never could get them to be even. Maybe it's just speaking to my lack of skills.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

there's a guy over on SSM who started a thread about a month or so ago about his AMT refit and the problems associated with this kit including the problems with the pylons and what he came up with was taking a couple of coat hangers and bending them to fit inside the pylons where they attach to not just the nacelles but the strong back as well. And he has posted some pics so if any one else here is on those boards go take a look see.
As for R2 reissuing/not reissuing the AMT refit I've come up with a way to atleast get the sauce/neck/secondary hull assembly to fit together and not be lopsided and super glue has nothing to do with it!!
Also how can a kit mold be altered permenatly?????


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

irishtrek said:


> Also how can a kit mold be altered permenatly?????


By physically altering it. In the AMT Refit's case, the faux woodgrain aztecing was etched in the steel and the etching cannot be repaired.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Heero Kasshu said:


> Any suggestions about reinfocement for the pylons?


I thickened the pylons with Evergreen styrene and inserted rectangular tubing down the pylons and into the secondary hull. The pylon roots were thick enough to support the tubing. I then drilled into the roots and the tubing to insert pins for strength. In the photos, the nacelles are held with tubing, tape and pins only.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Just last night I was thinking about rectangular tubing my self.
So, what size rectangular tubing did you use????
Also R2 a couple of years ago was saying the 350 NX-01 would not be reissued and it's due out later this year and that suggests to me that R2s decision on not reissuing the AMT refit has a slim chance of maybe being reversed. And if tht should ever happen I've got a couple of ideas that I would be willing to share with them for getting the neck to fit better on the strong back and into the saucer bottom.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Now where are those calipers ...? Ah. 

The brass tubing is 3/16" by 3/32".

The Evergreen strips seem to be .030". It's hard to measure them in place, and I can't lay my hands on the stock right now. I had to thicken the pylons a bit more than expected to allow room for the brass, but they look fine to me.


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