# How to get a realistic bare aluminum look



## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

I am a P-51 fanatic. I would like to build a kit and finish it with a realistic looking bare aluminum outer surface. I was considering the Tamiya 1/32 scale kit with the "metalized" parts, but I've been told that this finish doesn't necessarily look all that real, and you can't use any fillers on the seams, and you can't trim flashing off, etc. That shoots that idea in the foot. I know there are metalized looking paints that can be used for this, but I have used these paints in the past and the one thing I don't like about them is they never seem to completely harden. No matter how long you let them cure, whenever I touch it, it always leaves finger prints. Have these paints gotten any better? Is there something you can put over them that makes them harden? Is there another method for getting a realistic looking aluminum finish?


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## harpooner54 (Sep 15, 2008)

http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html

This has been around for many years & can be used for aircraft, autos &
figures. In the amount of time you use to mask off the model for painting
a metallic finish- you can cover it with the foil & have the finish completed.

-David


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Grampi, have you tried Tamyia acrylic aluminum?? It dries all the way through, and for an acrylic paint it looks as good as the real thing.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Here's a Jug I did with Bare Metal Foil:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/planes/icky1.html

There's also Alclad metalic paints. A lot of people swear by them. You have to put down a nice smooth glossy black finish first, then airbrush the Alclad on. I've seen some pretty stunning realistic-looking finishes from it. I've yet to get it right myself, though. :lol:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Remember in WW2 only PORTIONS of the fuselage were natural metal. The wings were all painted with aluminum colored dope.

Tamiya has some good quality metallic sprays like Bare Metal Aluminum, Gloss Aluminum and Silver Leaf. You can mask panels and use different paint shades for a multi paneled effect. The Gloss Aluminum would work well for the wings. I am not wild about the Tamiya Aluminum jar paint. It works but I think there are better airbrushable metallics like the Alclad finishes.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

You do GREAT WORK John!


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## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

John P said:


> Here's a Jug I did with Bare Metal Foil:
> http://www.inpayne.com/models/planes/icky1.html
> 
> There's also Alclad metalic paints. A lot of people swear by them. You have to put down a nice smooth glossy black finish first, then airbrush the Alclad on. I've seen some pretty stunning realistic-looking finishes from it. I've yet to get it right myself, though. :lol:


That looks awesome! I never could figure out how to do compound curves with the foil...


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## grampi (Nov 23, 2006)

djnick66 said:


> Remember in WW2 only PORTIONS of the fuselage were natural metal. The wings were all painted with aluminum colored dope.
> 
> Tamiya has some good quality metallic sprays like Bare Metal Aluminum, Gloss Aluminum and Silver Leaf. You can mask panels and use different paint shades for a multi paneled effect. The Gloss Aluminum would work well for the wings. I am not wild about the Tamiya Aluminum jar paint. It works but I think there are better airbrushable metallics like the Alclad finishes.


I'm not going for the wartime look...I'm going for this look:


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*It takes some practice.*










I stumbled on your question by chance. I work Alclad into my builds because BMF cant accentuate the finer details. The windshield frame, headlamp brackets, and jail bars are paper clips and sewing pins; the rest is Alclad. I use it to bridgethe gap between the chrome I have, and the things that I would like to be chromed.

Alclad works great!

It's Lacquer 

It's ready to spray. DO NOT THIN.

I generally prefer to shoot it over a GLOSS black lacquer base, it can also be shot over GLOSS enamel. I use lacquer if I want to sharpen existing details or finish, and an enamel base if I want fill or plump the base. You can alter the overall tonal effect by spraying over other colors. 

Base coat should be dry prior to applying Alclad. 

There a couple of secrets to spraying Alclad. Use low pressure. 8-12 psi works for me and my DA. Just enough to get it out of the nozzle. The idea is to apply a thin even liquid film in one wet coat. In this manner the metallic will lay down and self level beautifully. High pressure spraying will produce a dry film that will resemble cast aluminum.

The airbrush should just barely hiss .... sssssssssssssss

NOT..... PSSSSSSSSSSHT!

If you watch carefully you can see how the product flows over the gloss and quickly migrates within the liquid film that you have laid. 

In a perfect world, I try to never re-coat. Additional coats add build, and more often than not spoil the shimmering effect of one properly applied coat. Less is definitely more when working with Alclad.

Clear is almost mandatory for slotcars. Alclad is no exception. Certainly more durable than most of the metalizers, it still can and will rub off eventually without some form of protection. Again less is more. Two or three very light coats should be gently applied at low pressure. Once the mist coats have flashed you can hog down a final wet coat.

Best bet is to practice a bit before you point anything at a piece of your hard earned work. It took me a while to get the hang of it.










Only the blob motor is vacuum plated. The wheels and suspension parts are Alclad.


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