# Help with masking the Flying Sub...



## Arc60 (Feb 16, 2008)

Hoping to get some advice from you guys. Got the flying sub hull halves painted yellow. Now I need to mask the areas to paint the fins and raised pipe/stripes blue. I'm a virtual newbie at this. My question is: Should I spray a clear coat to seal the yellow hull before I use masking tape to spray paint the blue stripes? 

If I Do get masking tape residue (I'm using Tamiya masking tape) on the paint surface, what can I use to safely remove it without screwing up the yellow paint underneath?

Thanks in advance!

Alan


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## xsavoie (Jun 29, 1999)

Well,you could,in the area you are planning to put the tape on,trace with a fine paint brush alongside the tape with clear gloss in order to seal it and prevent bleeding of the paint underneath the tape.Of course,the clear gloss should be allowed to dry first.


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## Arc60 (Feb 16, 2008)

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated. I've learned a lot about painting just by having to work with Tamiya TS-47 chrome yellow. Man, this color is hard to get even, glossy, without dull streaks popping up. If anyone has any other flying sub painting tips, I'd love to hear them. Thanks again!




xsavoie said:


> Well,you could,in the area you are planning to put the tape on,trace with a fine paint brush alongside the tape with clear gloss in order to seal it and prevent bleeding of the paint underneath the tape.Of course,the clear gloss should be allowed to dry first.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

How about using the paint mask system from Aztekdummy? I've used his stuff for two models, now-the Chariot windows and the Iron Man kit. I bought a set or two from him for my sub. I have not built my sub yet. He provides super high quality black vinyl masks that are precision cut, maybe by a laser system and has detailed instructions for newbies like us! I've never had a problem with the mask glue sticking to my paint. Well worth the relatively low cost. Happy painting!


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## machgo (Feb 10, 2010)

I'm struggling with a similar problem, but on a different kit. Using "Duck" brand blue painters tape (basically the worst blue painters tape I've ever tried), I've noticed it affects the surface of the glossy paints I've used--Tamiya acrylics. It also doesn't give a sharp edge, i.e. paint bleeds under. 

Using Tamiya tape--wow, what a difference! You should experience very nice clean lines. But I did notice even the Tamiya tape left a mark, or affected the gloss paint where it touched.

Neither tape left any mark on flat paints. So you can use flats with no worries, or if you're going to top coat with clear, it *should* "erase" any marks left behind--but I haven't tried this yet.

The Tamiya tape won't leave a residue--the "marks" I'm talking about are the paint being affected somehow on the very top layer of the paint itself.

Halcyon Daze kindly suggested a masking material called Parafilm M which looks quite good too. Read his suggestions here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=290340

Hope that helps.


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## Scorpitat (Oct 7, 2004)

Best tape I've used is sold at WallyMart. It's kinda like the "blue' tape, but it's purple in color. It doesn't stick to underlying colors for me so far, and it gives a nice clean separation line. 

Just letting ya know. Ya might give it a try. It's sold in the same area as the blue tape mentioned before.

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!"


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## Arc60 (Feb 16, 2008)

machgo said:


> The Tamiya tape won't leave a residue--the "marks" I'm talking about are the paint being affected somehow on the very top layer of the paint itself.
> 
> Halcyon Daze kindly suggested a masking material called Parafilm M which looks quite good too. Read his suggestions here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=290340
> 
> Hope that helps.


Yes, thanks - this is EXACTLY what my problem is. Using the Tamiya tape affected the top layer of the paint. It DID hold a clean line, but when I lifted the tape off the surface, it left marks and a defined line-edge. Not a residue, but just surface distortion. Wondering if I should have sprayed the clear coat first, let it dry, and THEN do the masking for the fins and stripes. 

Might look into the parafilm M. Thanks for writing.

Alan


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Arc60 said:


> Hoping to get some advice from you guys. Got the flying sub hull halves painted yellow. Now I need to mask the areas to paint the fins and raised pipe/stripes blue. I'm a virtual newbie at this. My question is: Should I spray a clear coat to seal the yellow hull before I use masking tape to spray paint the blue stripes?
> 
> If I Do get masking tape residue (I'm using Tamiya masking tape) on the paint surface, what can I use to safely remove it without screwing up the yellow paint underneath?
> 
> ...


Hi, If you are using Tamiya Chrome Yellow for the flying sub exterior, You should be fine as far as the tape not leaving any residue behind when you lift it.
I have had problems with Testors doing exactly what you described but so far if you let the Tamiya cure up good, Like about a week before masking the fins off,You shouldn't have to worry.
I know a week is a long time to wait,And you may not even have to wait that long,But it's worth it to avoid the hassles of having to redo the whole thing:freak:The tamiya tape is excellent for what you are doing,Especially the stripes,Thats what i used on it,And it really does protect the paint bleed.
The Chrome yellow already has a nice gloss to it,So maby you don't need to spray it with another top gloss coat.Also if you do use a clear top coat, Try to find a can of Tamiya clear as that is more compatible with the yellow undercoat. certain other brands will cause the paint to wrinkle undernieth if your not careful.Really it's a matter of giving the paint time to really dry/cure good before handling it.Even if it seems dry to the touch,It doesn't mean it is totally dry. Hope this helps a bit,And good luck with your kit.It is really cool looking when finished.:thumbsup:


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## Arc60 (Feb 16, 2008)

spocks beard said:


> Hi, If you are using Tamiya Chrome Yellow for the flying sub exterior, You should be fine as far as the tape not leaving any residue behind when you lift it.
> I have had problems with Testors doing exactly what you described but so far if you let the Tamiya cure up good, Like about a week before masking the fins off,You shouldn't have to worry.
> I know a week is a long time to wait,And you may not even have to wait that long,But it's worth it to avoid the hassles of having to redo the whole thing:freak:The tamiya tape is excellent for what you are doing,Especially the stripes,Thats what i used on it,And it really does protect the paint bleed.
> The Chrome yellow already has a nice gloss to it,So maby you don't need to spray it with another top gloss coat.Also if you do use a clear top coat, Try to find a can of Tamiya clear as that is more compatible with the yellow undercoat. certain other brands will cause the paint to wrinkle undernieth if your not careful.Really it's a matter of giving the paint time to really dry/cure good before handling it.Even if it seems dry to the touch,It doesn't mean it is totally dry. Hope this helps a bit,And good luck with your kit.It is really cool looking when finished.:thumbsup:


This helps me a lot. Thank you very much. The accurate curing time is a complete mystery to me. I thought if I waited 24 hours I was okay! Waiting a week for the paint to completely cure makes perfect sense. That's what I'll do. Thanks again.

Alan


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

First the paint has to be good and dry,a week or ten days should do it.I did the stripes in three steps,from the back fins to the ring,I masked using Tamiya tape for the hard line then regular masking tape with wrapping paper to cover the rest.I airbrushed this part.From that part to the front curve,masked and airbrushed.From the raised part to the front,I masked and Drybrushed the line in until it matched the rest of it.Here are my two almost compleated subs with the lines painted in.Alex


These were painted on bare plastic using Rustolium Marigold Yellow.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I use Tamiya tape all the time, and have masked over Chrome Yellow as well. There are some things to consider...

For an even finish for any yellow, red, orange, etc. model, paint it white first. And make sure the white is SOLID. 

Then apply several light coats of Yellow. Let them dry thoroughly between coats. Once you get the color built up, you can apply a "wet coat" which is your final layer. Its heavy enough to flow and cover and still be wet, but not run or drip. DO NOT TOUCH IT for a week or so. The wet coat is what gives the high gloss surface. Tamiya lacquers are greatly effected by humidity and will "blush" or get flat/dull spots. You can always apply a clear top coat to solve that problem.

Tamiya lacquers dry to the touch fairly fast and you can think that masking over them in an hour or two is safe. But they dry slower inside, especially with thick, gloss colors. If you are getting marks on the surface from tape, its becuase the paint is not fully cured. I don't know if gas or solvent leaches out, but it is something in the curing paint that will leave marks. The tape mark problem is more noticable on gloss colors than flats.

I use Tamiya tape often and it is excellent stuff. I have noticed though the very wide stuff that comes on a roll is NOT the same formula/grade as the thinner widths that come in the plastic dispensers. The thinner stuff is better and I have never had any marking issues with the thin. The thicker stuff has a different adhesive and isn't as good. I do use the wide width tape to mask things like camouflage on large bomber models though.

Supposedly Frog tape is very good. They have several types/grades and I do not know which is good or not good for models. The people that have used the right variety have said its very good. You might do a search over on Hyperscale's Plane Talking for posts about Frog tape.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

falcondesigns said:


> First the paint has to be good and dry,a week or ten days should do it.I did the stripes in three steps,from the back fins to the ring,I masked using Tamiya tape for the hard line then regular masking tape with wrapping paper to cover the rest.I airbrushed this part.From that part to the front curve,masked and airbrushed.From the raised part to the front,I masked and Drybrushed the line in until it matched the rest of it.Here are my two almost compleated subs with the lines painted in.Alex
> 
> 
> These were painted on bare plastic using Rustolium Marigold Yellow.


Those are awsome looking flying subs! The paint jobs are Flawless!:thumbsup:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

falcondesigns said:


> First the paint has to be good and dry,a week or ten days should do it.I did the stripes in three steps,from the back fins to the ring,I masked using Tamiya tape for the hard line then regular masking tape with wrapping paper to cover the rest.I airbrushed this part.From that part to the front curve,masked and airbrushed.From the raised part to the front,I masked and Drybrushed the line in until it matched the rest of it.Here are my two almost compleated subs with the lines painted in.Alex
> 
> 
> These were painted on bare plastic using Rustolium Marigold Yellow.


Man, those look like award winners! Sweet! I like the subtle shading on the wings. Freaking excellent!


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