# So what mods are you going to do to your J-2



## teslabe

*Teslabe's J-2 special effects*



starseeker said:


> Teslabe used a great little motor from ebay to make his radar antennia rotate on his 128 Seaview:
> 
> http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/43270
> 
> I was so blown away bought a few of those motors myself, and plan on using one and a super simple belt drive to make the two year 1/2 radar screens spin on my 1/24 J2. I too had thought about the computer reels but they hardly ever worked on screen.
> Speaking about bells and whistles, I wonder if Teslabe is already planning more little tiny video screens for his J2. And actually, the main control center console and comm area screens would look great "live". If you go 3d season, where they replaced the radar screens with two video displays, that would make for a spectacular display. He did have a thread somewhere here on how he did that with his Seaview.
> Teslabe, are you out there?



Hi starseeker,
"I'm here", and can't wait for the three kits I have coming......:wave: Thank you for the very nice words, I have too many ideas for this baby and hope that the flight deck has room for the plans I have for it....:freak: I put a motor in the Astrogator in my PL J-2, I plan to do the same with my Moebius build. The second set of picture are the CCFT lights for the ceiling and the last set of pictures is what I'm looking at for the radar and center displays on the flight console, I thought about the whole display being video displays but didn't like the idea of nothing there when the videos were off, so just the centers will be video and the rest will be FO. I will recycle my Fustion core lighting from my LM 16.5" build, I'll replace the LEDs with white. The tape reels might move, need to find the right motor and buy the nice photoetched set from Paulbo....:thumbsup:

PS: I posted a new video of the dish in the finished sub, take a look in "My Photos"


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## teslabe

Here are the rest of the pictures. My old core lighting circuit that will be updated and the 0.96" OLED display for the Flight console. This is just the start, I think my head might explode with this kit, I'll post the video....

PS, the board to the right of my old core lighting circuit is a new version.....


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## MonsterModelMan

Teslabe,

Those are some absolutely AWESOME effects! Is this something that you have put together as a how-to and what specific parts with specs to obtain to get the same effects or are you possibly selling these as a kit for people to buy and install?

I think you would have a great way to make a lot of people really happy if you offered something like that!

Absolutley INCREDIBLE!:thumbsup:

MMM


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## teslabe

MonsterModelMan said:


> Teslabe,
> 
> Those are some absolutely AWESOME effects! Is this something that you have put together as a how-to and what specific parts with specs to obtain to get the same effects or are you possibly selling these as a kit for people to buy and install?
> 
> I think you would have a great way to make a lot of people really happy if you offered something like that!
> 
> Absolutley INCREDIBLE!:thumbsup:
> 
> MMM


Thank you very much MMM, most of what I build I take photos so if anyone else would like to build something I've done, they can. Like the little servo I used in my Seaview for the radar, I have every step photographed to modify one. Which effect did you have in mind? I might be able to help, just send me a PM. Sorry, I don't sell the things I make, I hardly have time to build the ones I need for my builds....
The group has some great lighting effect builders that sell, like JAI and VooDooFX, to name just a few.....:thumbsup:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I would surely be one of these happy guys. :thumbsup:
> Please, say "Yes".


Hi Fernando, which effect did you have in mind, I might be able to help with where to get the parts to build what you need. If it's lighting effects, I'd look to JAI or VooDooFX, this is what they do and they both do it very well. I would not feel right taking any business away from them, sorry, I hope you understand....:wave:


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## starseeker

Love it! Stupidly, I thought that when we finally saw what you were up to I wouldn't be surprised. And, truth be told, I guess I'm really not surprised. No, what it is, is: I'm awe-struck. You're doing it again, but you're taking this to a whole new level, aren't you? Now I have a reason to want these kits to be delivered soon, so we can see more. (The Seaview, FS wall, and tricorder (that's new to me) are brilliantby the way.) 
All best!


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## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Hi Fernando, which effect did you have in mind, I might be able to help with where to get the parts to build what you need. If it's lighting effects, I'd look to JAI or VooDooFX, this is what they do and they both do it very well. I would not feel right taking any business away from them, sorry, I hope you understand....:wave:


I understand. I would be happy if you could just indicate specs of motors and other parts (appropriate to the radar scans, astrogator and navigational recorder) and also the suppliers (if possible, with web sites - I live in Brazil and will need to import everything).
Thanks a lot. :thumbsup:


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## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Love it! Stupidly, I thought that when we finally saw what you were up to I wouldn't be surprised. And, truth be told, I guess I'm really not surprised. No, what it is, is: I'm awe-struck. You're doing it again, but you're taking this to a whole new level, aren't you? Now I have a reason to want these kits to be delivered soon, so we can see more. (The Seaview, FS wall, and tricorder (that's new to me) are brilliantby the way.)
> All best!


Thank you so very much.....:wave: It all has to do with the kit, if it's a lame
kit I have no creative juices at all, but, as with every Moebius kit I've bought, my head just explodes with ideas when I crack open the box and see how well they are designed and produced....... I can't wait to get my J-2 so I can see just how far I can go with this one. After 40+ years of waiting I'm a very happy man...... If you have an interest in the Tricorder mod, take a look form this post forward.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=2924513&postcount=72

Best Regads,
Kent F.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I understand. I would be happy if you could just indicate specs of motors and other parts (appropriate to the radar scans, astrogator and navigational recorder) and also the suppliers (if possible, with web sites - I live in Brazil and will need to import everything).
> Thanks a lot. :thumbsup:


I'll post some info on this when I get home from work. I too had to import everything. It all came from China, it was no big deal, you should have no problem shipping to Brazil from China. Be happy you don't live in Italy, most 
E-Bay stores will not ship to Italy.......:drunk:

Best Regards,
Kent F.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> I understand. I would be happy if you could just indicate specs of motors and other parts (appropriate to the radar scans, astrogator and navigational recorder) and also the suppliers (if possible, with web sites - I live in Brazil and will need to import everything).
> Thanks a lot. :thumbsup:


http://cgi.ebay.com/6x-SG90-9g-Micr...Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a03438bc6

Fernando, here is the info on the servo I used in my Seaview. I have pictures showing how to modify them to spin, servos only rotate 90-180 degs, some can go as far as 270. I needed mine to spin continuously, so you must take them apart to do so. I will try to use them for the astrogator and the reels of the nav recorder, but I will be using small video displays for the flight console radar displays, like I did in my Seaview. Send me a PM for more info.

PS, We are getting OT, I think we need to move this to a new tread out of respect for the author....:wave:
I just started a new tread, now how do I move this stuff?


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## teslabe

I thought it fair that I start a tread for us to post the things we will or would like to do to our J-2s. I was asked what I planed to do to my build in another
tread and thought we should move that converstion here. How can I move the posts from another tread???? Can the moderator please help.....:wave:
They are in "Jupiter 2 astrogator from JAI", starting with post# 31, thank you for any help.....


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## drewid142

I'm going to watch what you do, make copious notes, and plan to do them in my own build someday! You really need to encapsulate your video screen biz... simpy awesome!

Drew


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## teslabe

drewid142 said:


> I'm going to watch what you do, make copious notes, and plan to do them in my own build someday! You really need to encapsulate your video screen biz... simpy awesome!
> 
> Drew


Hi Drew, Great to hear from you and love your new figures for the J-2.....:thumbsup: I will be ordering at least one set to start and I'm sure
I'll get two more for the other two kits I have coming......:woohoo:
Thank you for the kind words, I need the kits so I can see just what I can or
can't do with it. But if I know Moebius, this will be one crazy build....


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## teslabe

Never mind.......


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## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Fernando, here is the info on the servo I used in my Seaview. I have pictures showing how to modify them to spin, servos only rotate 90-180 degs, some can go as far as 270. I needed mine to spin continuously, so you must take them apart to do so. I will try to use them for the astrogator and the reels of the nav recorder, but I will be using small video displays for the flight console radar displays, like I did in my Seaview. Send me a PM for more info.


Thanks teslabe. I'm planning to set up my radar scanners to rotate, like they were on the 2nd season. As a neophyte on eletronics, I think I better wait to see what you are going to do and follow your steps. I sent you a PM.


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks teslabe. I'm planning to set up my radar scanners to rotate, like they were on the 2nd season. As a neophyte on eletronics, I think I better wait to see what you are going to do and follow your steps. I sent you a PM.


Send you a PM. What radar scanners are you talking about, the screens in the flight console?


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## Fernando Mureb

Yes. The two at left and right of the flight console. Do you guess it would be possible to this kit? I mean, is there enough room?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Yes. The two at left and right of the flight console. Do you guess it would be possible to this kit? I mean, is there enough room?


Not sure til I get my kits, but looking at the photos from Frank you might have a chance, after all the servos are small enough to fit in the sail of my Seaview, it all depends on how deep it is under the console.


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## teslabe

I think this would also work very well for the few who are going to do a mechanical Fusion lighting effect, just use a larger servo for your mod. I would think it would be easy to attach a rod to the bottom of the modified feedback
pot for the top scanner effect and the mounting for the servo could also have the wiper contacts for the lamp's power. Just make a disk from some sheet plastic about the diameter of the core, minus the room for your lamps and mount it to the servo's output shaft. With some 22AWG sold buss wire make two rings, one smaller then the other and mount them to the plastic sheet with two sided tape. That would get wired to the lamps, be sure to solder the wires to the side of the buss wire so that the rings are smooth for the brushes, otherwise the lamps will flicker when the brushes bounce over any high spots.
Just a thought.....:wave:


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## m jamieson

Two small pulleys and o-rings could drive the radars..attached to a single geared motor or servo beneath the main deck if there is not enough room behind the consoles.


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## teslabe

m jamieson said:


> Two small pulleys and o-rings could drive the radars..attached to a single geared motor or servo beneath the main deck if there is not enough room behind the consoles.


Good idea, you will have to modify the servo though, as I stated before, very few servos rotate 360deg. If they do they tend to be too large and expansive to work with for us model builders, the encoder needed to tell the logic control where the motor's shaft position is, is overkill if you just want it to spin around. The point of my modifing this cheap servos is that you now have a good "motor/transmission" assembly in a small package.....:thumbsup:


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## m jamieson

I'm hoping a new core lighting will mimic Y3a's beautiful six light mechanical system! Watching that ramp up was a real show stopper! I've been trying to find a way for an "N" gauge geared model railroad motor to turn the dome "V" without running a shaft through the center of the ship. (Maybe a pulley will work there also, with the motor mounted behind the walls) I will get a much better idea of what can be done once my kit shows up.


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## starseeker

m jamieson said:


> I'm hoping a new core lighting will mimic Y3a's beautiful six light mechanical system! Watching that ramp up was a real show stopper! I've been trying to find a way for an "N" gauge geared model railroad motor to turn the dome "V" without running a shaft through the center of the ship. (Maybe a pulley will work there also, with the motor mounted behind the walls) I will get a much better idea of what can be done once my kit shows up.


Teslabe would probably know a whole lot more about whether this is possible or not, but:
If you took two identical servos and wired them together, one would act as the "director" and one as the "slave". The director servo should produce enough electric current to spin the slave servo. I don't know if this would work in servos small enough to fit inside the top dome but it's been long used by amateur astronomers who make their own hands free focusers.


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## m jamieson

Duel motor model railroad engines work together and stay in sync also. But on the other hand I would love to have the simplicity of an led chaser circuit in the power core if it can come close to giving that six light hero effect at lower speeds. I also start to wonder about how loud three or four separate motors will be resonating inside the hull will be..which of course can be covered up with a Mp3 of the ships engines adding even more fun to the game. lol
I always thought that a spinning astrogator would not even be visible unless you apply the barber stripe to the little J2 like in the later seasons...but I'm not too fond of that look soooo.. I would rather have it rock back and forth like the red balls of death under the general alarm panel. Both could be done pretty simply with a servo and eccentric crank...that is, "in principle".. until I start trying to cram all of these modifications and electronics into the space available. Well.. it's going to be all part of the hair puling challenge of innovation in J2 building..whoohoo!


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## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Teslabe would probably know a whole lot more about whether this is possible or not, but:
> If you took two identical servos and wired them together, one would act as the "director" and one as the "slave". The director servo should produce enough electric current to spin the slave servo. I don't know if this would work in servos small enough to fit inside the top dome but it's been long used by amateur astronomers who make their own hands free focusers.


In post #19 I gave a little thought to the mechanical lighting effect, I know some would not do it any other way. Myself, it's electronic all the way. Here is a litttle item I got online. It's nice for lighting effects in small places, the only down side is that each output can only drive 100ma or about three LEDs.
I had to modify the boards I got. By adding a transistor to each output I now can drive 500ma per....:thumbsup: This is one of the boards in the Space Pod core just to give you an idea of its size. Here is the listing, be sure to click on the patterns to run a video of how they look.

http://www.onlineauction.com/index....985669&title=Led_Chaser_Sequencer_Kit-2B_Flat


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## Richard Baker

I have uses motors from slot car upgrade kits and built a transmission with the nylon gears from an assorment papack (you get aboyt 8 gears, some with dual radai hubs/teeth). You can pretty much choose what continious speed you want by mixing gears. I had to build a rig which would spin all four tires in a 1/24 scale Pontiac Fiera car kit for a TV commercial- the car had to be seen from every angle so the only place to put a motor was where the real one was (mid engined).

.


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## teslabe

Well I now know how one of my builds will be displayed, just ordered this from Henry at TSDS, can't wait.....:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb

Here is my little shopping list (God help me if my wife discover it)

1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear $71.95 (CultTVMan)
2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks $50.95 (CultTVMan)
3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set $37.95 (CultTVMan)
4- Paragrafix Lost in Space Robot Photoetch $16.95 (CultTVMan)
5- JAI Astrogator lighting kit - not priced yet
6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit - not priced yet
7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set - not priced yet
8- Crow's Nest Set of Figures - not priced yet

Did I forget something?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Here is my little shopping list (God help me if my wife discover it)
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear $71.95 (CultTVMan)
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks $50.95 (CultTVMan)
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set $37.95 (CultTVMan)
> 4- Paragrafix Lost in Space Robot Photoetch $16.95 (CultTVMan)
> 5- JAI Astrogator lighting kit - not priced yet
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit - not priced yet
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set - not priced yet
> 8- Crow's Nest Set of Figures - not priced yet
> 
> Did I forget something?


Just the cost of a divorce lawyer.....


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## m jamieson

Lets see it from a different perspective:
1- Wife's new dress or outfit $80.00 and up
2- new shoes for said dress $80 and up
3- new ear-rings, necklace, rings-?
4- handbag (coach $300)
5- mani/pedi -$50.00 plus tip
6-hair stylist per month $90.00 and up
I guess it's all just a matter of perspective as to what is needless spending! lol


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## teslabe

m jamieson said:


> Lets see it from a different perspective:
> 1- Wife's new dress or outfit $80.00 and up
> 2- new shoes for said dress $80 and up
> 3- new ear-rings, necklace, rings-?
> 4- handbag (coach $300)
> 5- mani/pedi -$50.00 plus tip
> 6-hair stylist per month $90.00 and up
> I guess it's all just a matter of perspective as to what is needless spending! lol


Great comparison, just hope she can see the similarity.....


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## liskorea317

Fernando Mureb said:


> Here is my little shopping list (God help me if my wife discover it)
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear $71.95 (CultTVMan)
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks $50.95 (CultTVMan)
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set $37.95 (CultTVMan)
> 4- Paragrafix Lost in Space Robot Photoetch $16.95 (CultTVMan)
> 5- JAI Astrogator lighting kit - not priced yet
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit - not priced yet
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set - not priced yet
> 8- Crow's Nest Set of Figures - not priced yet
> 
> Did I forget something?
> 
> Fernando!
> Just do like I do-smile wide and say "I know nothing! I know nothing!"
> But keep your arms over your head, and in about 5 minutes she'll get tired and stop beating you. Works every time!


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## Richard Baker

Old Joke:
My wife made me cut back on expenses- no more beer.
I saw her bill for the new dress, hairstyle and nails. I asker her why did I have to cut back when she didn't.
She told me it was to make her look prettier for me.

I told her that was what the beer was for...

.


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## m jamieson

Fernando Mureb said:


> Here is my little shopping list (God help me if my wife discover it)
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear $71.95 (CultTVMan)
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks $50.95 (CultTVMan)
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set $37.95 (CultTVMan)
> 4- Paragrafix Lost in Space Robot Photoetch $16.95 (CultTVMan)
> 5- JAI Astrogator lighting kit - not priced yet
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit - not priced yet
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set - not priced yet
> 8- Crow's Nest Set of Figures - not priced yet
> 
> Did I forget something?


Well at least that's the last of it! I mean no one else is coming out with any more Jupiter 2 stuff right..couldn't possibly add anything to that list...anyone..anyone Bueller?


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## Lou Dalmaso

do you think you'll want a case to display the J2 in?

do we have a total height for j2 with new gear and J2 in launch tower?


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## g_xii

Lou Dalmaso said:


> do you think you'll want a case to display the J2 in?
> 
> do we have a total height for j2 with new gear and J2 in launch tower?


Lou --

I think we're all going to be looking for either very deep wall alcoves or finally getting rid of the 50 gallon fish tank. It's the only way to make space for this beastie!

--Henry


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## Y3a

I'm throwing out COUCHES to make room for the 4 foot job! LOL! Hmmmm... Lemme see... OK so a table and chair will also go to make room for a pedestal with the yellow circle in the center and the Jupiter 2 parked on it with mechanical effects spinning inside. I decided to use a clear plastic rod between the astrogator and the spinning "V" in the bubble. I will use 6 Grain of Dust bulbs under the "V" for the effect, and they'll illuminate the inside of the ship, in back of the scrim. The working gear will be run from a 'lazy susan' type thing with a cut-out pattern in 3 locations and as it turns, the gear lowers, controlled by a rod sticking up into a slot on a disk attached to the top of the lazy susan. The cut-out makes sure all 3 legs drop at the same time. it has a stop position at the end of the rotation. the footpads were opened first by the first movement of the lazy susan. The footpad doors open first connected by wires to the lazy susan and then the legs are lowered. It's all theatrics.


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## Fernando Mureb

Lou Dalmaso said:


> do you think you'll want a case to display the J2 in?
> do we have a total height for j2 with new gear and J2 in launch tower?


Yeah. And what amazes me is that there are some lucky (crazy?) guys that are gonna buy 3 kits!!!! 
Where do they work? In a wife-proof bunker 20 feet below the ground?


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Yeah. And what amazes me is that there are some lucky (crazy?) guys that are gonna buy 3 kits!!!!
> Where do they work? In a wife-proof bunker 20 feet below the ground?


Correction, already bought and on their way. Too bad I'll be out of town when they get here...... I don't have a wife, just a girlfriend and she has no say over what I do with my money......


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## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Correction, already bought and on their way. Too bad I'll be out of town when they get here...... I don't have a wife, just a girlfriend and she has no say over what I do with my money......


Envy!


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## ClubTepes

I was thinking about placing one of these micro security cameras you can get from places like micro-center for $20.00 and place is in some inconspicous place in the rear of the interior so that it looks forward past the astrogator and out the front windows.

So when someone looks in, you can see them on a monitor outside the ship.

I know crows nest is doing figures......that doesn't include the robot does it?

I have a robot I bought years ago (I think its johnny lightning) that scales out to be 1/32 - 1/35.


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## Dar

Fernando Mureb said:


> Here is my little shopping list (God help me if my wife discover it)
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear $71.95 (CultTVMan)
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks $50.95 (CultTVMan)
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set $37.95 (CultTVMan)
> 4- Paragrafix Lost in Space Robot Photoetch $16.95 (CultTVMan)
> 5- JAI Astrogator lighting kit - not priced yet
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit - not priced yet
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set - not priced yet
> 8- Crow's Nest Set of Figures - not priced yet
> 
> Did I forget something?


BANDAIDS.


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## liskorea317

Fernando Mureb said:


> Yeah. And what amazes me is that there are some lucky (crazy?) guys that are gonna buy 3 kits!!!!
> Where do they work? In a wife-proof bunker 20 feet below the ground?


I have my allowance that I'm allowed to buy anything I want with, and I've been saving it and not buying anything else since I heard about this kit, so the Mrs. can't complain about it. Now I have to start saving again to get all the cool stuff that goes with it! 
:thumbsup:


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## starseeker

For a really large scale J2, and how to make the 3d season center panel on the controls work, check this out:
http://www.jupiter2project.com./recreations.html


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## Fernando Mureb

Mission Impossible?


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## Antimatter

teslabe said:


> Just the cost of a divorce lawyer.....


$71.00 for landing legs???? Give me a break.


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## g_xii

Antimatter said:


> $71.00 for landing legs???? Give me a break.


In all fairness, that kind of stuff is very expensive to make. He's getting them laser cut (I just have my kit machine cut, but I'm dealing with larger components), and of the likely thousands of model kits Moebius makes, how many of those kit owners will actually buy some of these aftermarket products? When we, the aftermarket manufacturers, deal with smaller numbers, it's all basically geared towards something that someone _might_ want, and there is never an expectation on our part to get rich and retire off the manufacturing and sale of any of these products. If you don't want to pay for it, don't buy it. But know that Paul and I have to pay a license fee for each and every item we sell, as well as being held to high quality standards.

The other thing that I have not mentioned is the amount of time and effort we put into this. I can easily spend 80 hours designing a highly detailed decal set, and then there is an instruction sheet to write, etc. We are entitled to earn a little bit for our time! 

The beauty of this, though, is if you have the money, and want to buy it, it's there for you. If you think it's a silly waste of money or vastly overpriced, you can easily express that opinion as well by simply not purchasing the product! The best part is, with this new J2 kit, you don't HAVE to have any of this stuff -- the model kit stands proudly on it's merits alone!

--Henry


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## Ron Gross

Henry,
Well said. And for the record, even though I'm working with Paul on the Hero Gear, I think your stuff is great too. Love that launch gantry. You should do well with that one.


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## Paulbo

Ditto Henry. Very well explained. Thank you.

Also, ditto Ron - Henry's launch gantry looks super.


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## g_xii

Awww shucks, thanks guys! I'm feelin' all warm and fuzzy now!

All kidding aside, I did recently sell a launch pad kit to someone who wrote me later saying it was a lot of money for a cheap product. After a few emails, I discovered that they had never purchased a "garage kit" before. I don't use cheap products or materials in my kit. I had to 'splain the whole "garage kit" premise to them, and then they understood what they had gotten and that it was, indeed, high quality. 

Sometimes people are just not aware, I guess, of what goes on when we supposedly "churn" this stuff out. 

However, it was nice to, however briefly, be confused with a professional model company and the standards associated with such...

And, yes, the PGMS landing gear DOES look very nice and crisp. Nothin' wrong there.

--Henry


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## Lou Dalmaso

You know, thinking of all of the add on products available for this great kit, I can really see how they can be put to fine use.

#1 "Launch" using Henry's gantry and core lighting and Drew's freezing tube figures 
#2 a "Planet" setting with Drew's casual figures and Paul's Landing gear. (and the lighting of your choice)

These are great days


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## Y3a

Antimatter said:


> $71.00 for landing legs???? Give me a break.


Its not a product aimed at the casual builder.


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## Dave Metzner

This is what I think is a good analogy...I used to call on a company near Saugatuck MI that builds specialty custom hulls for racing boats (not for the casual boater)...When I asked the fellow I called on how much a hull for an off-shore race boat costs his reply was kinda tongue in cheek - but straight to the point "Speed costs money just how fast do you want to go!" In other words boat racers without fat wallets need not apply! 
After running around with a pretty high class drag car (AA/D) in my youth I understand the relationship between going fast and a big budget.

Same deal here - extra details cost money just how much extra detail do you want! What will your wallet allow you to do? 

And yes, the after market stuff can be pricey - allot of it is hand made - none of it is mass produced and it's all small volume... so no - you're not getting ripped off when a photo etched and laser cut aftermarket landing gear set sells for $71.00 --- Go check out the cost of Eduard "BIG ED" photo etched detail sets for 1/32 aircraft models them come back and sing me your sad song about the cost of Jupiter 2 detail parts.

Dave


----------



## Ron Gross

Dave,
Thanks very much for sharing your insight.
Ron G.


----------



## StarshipClass

After checking out the differences between the two in some detail, I like the beefier legs of the kit in all honesty. I always thought they did a pretty good job in representing those on the show. 

The model's compromise in that regard has turned out to be a pretty decent one in my book, despite my earlier trepidations. The main mods I'll make there are replacing the struts with metal tubes.

I will be spending some money on lighting, however. Luckily, white LEDs are really cheap now.


----------



## teslabe

Antimatter said:


> $71.00 for landing legs???? Give me a break.


Did you bother reading the post??? If you find the price beyond your limit for a build, that's fine, I don't...... There's no need to get nasty, or is this just a bit of resentment? Alot of hard work goes into producing the after-market offerings and I doubt anyone of them are getting rich...... Should they just give it away????:freak:


----------



## Richard Baker

I think it is a fair price for the amount of work that went into them. 
Imagine what it would be if you figured it out as 'Minimum Wage per Hour x Time + Materials'

.


----------



## Paulbo

Thank you both. As I mentioned in the other thread launching my other J2 products, the landing gear is being sold at the lowest price we can without actually losing money - after all the work Ron and I'd put into it we decided that we *had* to release it.

I think we can abandon this and move on to other subjects.


----------



## MonsterModelMan

I've come to realize that you could spend 2X,3X,or even 4X the amount for an entire build if you add EVERYTHING offered for a kit.

Some people have to have EVERYTHING! Some people only add a few things and other people build OOB (Out of Box).

The fact that there are even aftermarket items being offered is GREAT! Years ago...we couldn't get a lot of this type of stuff!
If someone thinks the prices are stiff....then they don't buy them.

I've had some sticker shock on some stuff originally and guess what, I don't throw them under the bus...I just don't buy them.
I can't afford EVERYTHING if I want other kits as well....

I say keep doing what your doing. You're not out to rip anyone off and you offer quality products!

If you design them, people will come (and buy them too!)

MMM


----------



## Paulbo

PerfesserCoffee said:


> After checking out the differences between the two in some detail, I like the beefier legs of the kit in all honesty.


The two different gear are kind of a weird amalgum of beefier and skimpier bits. In the full-sized set (kit gear), the landing pad itself and the vertical "armature" are a bit larger.

The main portion of the gear, the "ladder" is significantly "beefier" in the hero miniature that Ron and I have replicated.


----------



## m jamieson

So besides the power core and astrogator, what are the other lighting options in development?


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> I think it is a fair price for the amount of work that went into them.
> Imagine what it would be if you figured it out as 'Minimum Wage per Hour x Time + Materials'
> 
> .


So many come into the group who are "out of the box" builders and have no concept of what most of us like doing to our kits. I for one will not buy junk but I have no problem paying a fair price for a high quality product and $71.00
is not bad for laser-cut landing gears. I haven't ordered those yet but I do have a nice launch pad coming my way.:woohoo:


----------



## Ron Gross

Paulbo said:


> The two different gear are kind of a weird amalgum of beefier and skimpier bits. In the full-sized set (kit gear), the landing pad itself and the vertical "armature" are a bit larger.
> 
> The main portion of the gear, the "ladder" is significantly "beefier" in the hero miniature that Ron and I have replicated.


To me, it all goes back to that classic stock footage landing sequence, first seen in "Ghost Planet," and then many times thereafter. The proportions of the hero gear are very different overall, but the fundamental "read" is that they are the ones that are beefier due to the larger dimensions of the ladder side walls. Since the entire scene specifically involves the motion of the gear, the eye is naturally drawn to this area with a lasting impression being made. 

Maybe it's something I noticed more than most because I have made a point of studying this thing for a couple of decades. However, I did think it was important enough to at least find a way to have this option available. Scratch building the gear can be a real bear - remember, I did it a few years back. In fact, those patterns and molds always figured prominently in the resin casting demos I did for Wonderfest for a half dozen years or so (now semi-retired).
Ron G.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Fernando Mureb said:


> Here is my little shopping list (God help me if my wife discover it)
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear $71.95 (CultTVMan)
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks $50.95 (CultTVMan)
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set $37.95 (CultTVMan)
> 4- Paragrafix Lost in Space Robot Photoetch $16.95 (CultTVMan)
> 5- JAI Astrogator lighting kit - not priced yet
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit - not priced yet
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set - not priced yet
> 8- Crow's Nest Set of Figures - not priced yet
> 
> Did I forget something?


The list becomes bigger:

9- JAI lighting for the freezing tubes walls and bases and the elevator base - not priced yet
10- JAI lighting for the over head lighting, control panels, and circuitry cabinet - not priced yet

PS: not to mention TSDS launch gantry
PS2: I need to visit my manager bank account


----------



## GEH737

$71 and I've waited 44 years... $1.61 per year - yeah - I'm ok with it 

I for one, certainly appreciate all the hard work and effort on this project. I'm certainly not going to quibble about some cash that will turn a very long time wish into a reality.

Hitch


----------



## Fernando Mureb

I'm not complaining. All the stuff worth their prices. I'll buy everything, except the launch gantry, because I want my J2 in the landing position.


----------



## Y3a

The Launch Gantry is a great display item! I plan to display my "Full interior, mechanical core and bubble but retracted gear" version on it. It adds to the anticipation of the lift off in the original scene in the first episode. 

the main challenge for me as with the 2 foot Lunar Models model was working landing gear. I have 3 methods that will work to lower the legs in unison. Two methods won't support the model on the legs. One method is expensive to do. All require special jgs for the forming of the brackets and parts used to pivot the legs. The pistons/ram stuff is illusion, but the footpad MUST be perfectly aligned to the footpad doors or they will jam the leg up/down/ mechanics and could break the footpad off the legs! Challenges are FUN!


----------



## Rl3058

Here is my shopping list:

1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear
2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks
3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set
4- JAI Astrogator lighting kit 
6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit
7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set
8- JAI lighting for the freezing tubes walls and bases and the elevator base 
9- JAI lighting for the over head lighting, control panels, and circuitry cabinet


----------



## kdaracal

Usually JAI and sometimes TSDS will bundle products for those consumers who want a little bit more. I'm hoping this will happen. That will be a good time to buy. I figure the extra Halloween lights decor I bought this season might work well for the under-the-floor FX. IE: lit freezer tubes, elevator floor, etc. I need plug-n-play for sure!! Leave the fusion core and masks to the experts.........:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Having the time to look though my kit this morning, I started a list of things I hope to do with this FREAKIN AWESOME kit...... I'm on page two.....


----------



## Y3a

Pictures?


----------



## Y3a

No, I just wanna see how the layed together parts look as I wait to get mine. It can be anybodys kit in progress, even if it's just flying it around the room with just the bubble and fusion core attached.


----------



## Rl3058

Rl3058 said:


> Here is my shopping list:
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set
> 4- JAI Astrogator lighting kit
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set
> 8- JAI lighting for the freezing tubes walls and bases and the elevator base
> 9- JAI lighting for the over head lighting, control panels, and circuitry cabinet


Will also be adding:

10- 1/35 Space Pod & Chariot

http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Featu...l/SlideShow/mid/2328/ItemID/6063/Default.aspx


----------



## Seaview

RI3058 (if that is your number),
Thanks for that link. Is that 1/35 scale Pod & Chariot a garage kit, or is it a kit Moebius will be producing? I'm thinking garage kit by the materials being used.


----------



## Rl3058

Got an E-mail from Cult with one word:

MOEBIUS


----------



## Seaview

Excellent! Thanks!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

If that is true (too good to be) it will certainly be a new item on my list.


----------



## Rl3058

Rl3058 said:


> Here is my shopping list:
> 
> 1- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Hero Landing Gear
> 2- Aztek Dummies Jupiter 2 Painting Masks
> 3- Paragrafix Jupiter 2 Photoetch & Decal Set
> 4- JAI Astrogator lighting kit
> 6- TSDS Dome and Fusion Core lighting kit
> 7- TSDS Jupiter 2 Decal set
> 8- JAI lighting for the freezing tubes walls and bases and the elevator base
> 9- JAI lighting for the over head lighting, control panels, and circuitry cabinet
> 
> 10- 1/35 Space Pod & Chariot
> 
> http://www.culttvman2.com/dnn/Featu...l/SlideShow/mid/2328/ItemID/6063/Default.aspx


Here is an idea I've been toying with:

Remove the door to the left of the ladder and open up the window to recreate the room from the episode "Visit to a Hostile Planet" when the ship is being chased by a Hypertomic missile.


----------



## m jamieson

I was chased by one of those last week...they are really annoying!


----------



## m jamieson

..especially when they get all hyper on ya!


----------



## skinnyonce

I.ve watched that episode many time's and don't recall any missle's, your thinking of the "ghost planet..


----------



## Rl3058

skinnyonce said:


> I.ve watched that episode many time's and don't recall any missle's, your thinking of the "ghost planet..


Watch the very beginning which is the last few minutes of the end of "Ghost Planet"


----------



## Seaview

Rl3058 said:


> Here is an idea I've been toying with:
> 
> Remove the door to the left of the ladder and open up the window to recreate the room from the episode "Visit to a Hostile Planet" when the ship is being chased by a Hypertomic missile.


 
An EXCELLENT idea! This should make the freezing tubes and viewport main control panel more visible! THANKS for the inspiration! :thumbsup:


----------



## MAX WEDGE

One mod I would like to have, is the ability to operate all the various functions from an outside source? I have wanted to have my J-2, be it a Lunar, SFM, or Moebius displayed on a custom base with cover, and a front panel that would operate the various lights and sound? I was hopping that the wiring could be ran thru the footpad into the strut and into the Ship and out of sight? The idea is to avoid handling the Model everytime you want to operate a certain feature


----------



## Dar

Im going to build a complete lower level and rebuild the upper level. Everything will be scaled perfectly. There will have to be some minor adjustments to the interior but its all going to work.........

.......no just kidding.:jest: There no way I would be able to pull that off with great results. Though Im sure someone may give it the old college try.

I think I will be doing a straight build up with no major modifications to the interior parts. It all seems to be completely accurate with what we have seen on screen.(lighting of course will be added but I really dont consider this a modification since this model has been engineered for lighting) Now I may add the supply/observation room next to the elevator and maybe the pod bay. I also want to do some other type of room but Im still thinking on it. Not sure if it will fit.


----------



## starseeker

Dar said:


> Im going to build a complete lower level and rebuild the upper level. Everything will be scaled perfectly. There will have to be some minor adjustments to the interior but its all going to work.........
> 
> .......no just kidding.:jest: There no way I would be able to pull that off with great results. Though Im sure someone may give it the old college try.


I don't know. Might be a tight squeeze.


----------



## Dar

starseeker said:


> I don't know. Might be a tight squeeze.


Just build a bigger shell.:lol: Coming along nicely starseeker. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I still maintain though that with some proper rescaling and slight modifications the J2 still works as a two level ship with its basic shape maintained.


----------



## liskorea317

Anyone going to add a toilet/urinal/bathtub?


----------



## starseeker

The lower deck has a compact bath/laundry area, that became an airlock in year 3. The airlock door then retracted into cabin 2, making it unusable. They really screwed the pooch with the poor old J2 in year 3. 
I always figured that Don would need a place to sleep, and being the pilot that place would probably be near the controls. Makes sense if the barely used door next to the freezing tubes led to Don's cabin/bathroom.


----------



## steviesteve

Starseeker: that is way too cool. Awesome. Far-out. Absolutely fabulous!!!
What a great model of my new house. How'd you know? The builders will really love all the detail...:tongue:

(They don't have a drool icon here, do they...)


----------



## Rl3058

*J-2 Crash Scene*

I came up with an intresting idea for those who want to build a Diorama crash scene.
Cut a large hole where you want to put your J-2 and build a lower platform under the ship for the landing legs to rest on. This is for those who want to have the landing gear in the lower deployed position.


----------



## Seaview

steviesteve said:


> (They don't have a drool icon here, do they...)


 
No, we don't, but we SHOULD! :thumbsup:


----------



## AJ-1701

As much as love the stuff Herb has done to his J2. My mods will be fairly basic...

PE and decal set from ParaGrafix
One of the figures sets from Crowsnest Models
The vinyls from Aztek Dummy
And an interior lighting kit, self designed :drunk:

Ohh and the furniture so I can display it :tongue::jest:


----------



## starseeker

It's been a few weeks since I last cut a bit of plastic. Amazingly, in all that time, it seems that one of the most popular J2 threads here is how to get it back into its box. ??? So to try to revive another build thread, I thought I post a couple shots. I'm back into the upper deck for a change and I'm finally using some of the etch I made last spring. 
The astrogator bench was built as the blueprints had it, hollow with open lightening holes and an almost to scale Evergreen L channel frame inside. The blueprints specify that the L channel be painted black where it underlaps the lightening holes. Little tiny wheels and little tiny Grandt Line bolt heads at the ends of the axles. If I had discovered www.scalehardware.com I would have used actual nuts and bolts. What a great site!
Going for the first season J2 and its comm station. Still have to drill the holes for optic and other switches. The photo doesn't show it well but I think the light shield (?) around the monitors is more than half again as wide at the top edge than at the bottom, and that the diagonal side edges get wider as they climb. Don't know if the Moebius kit does this. I'm so tempted to get a $20 mp3 player on EBay and put it behind the large screen. The large and fairly visible monitor just screams out for an actual display. But what would one put on screen? I keep thinking the Robinsons should be watching the credits of Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea. 
So has anyone done anything with video and/or motors yet?


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> It's been a few weeks since I last cut a bit of plastic. Amazingly, in all that time, it seems that one of the most popular J2 threads here is how to get it back into its box. ??? The large and fairly visible monitor just screams out for an actual display. But what would one put on screen? I keep thinking the Robinsons should be watching the credits of Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea.
> So has anyone done anything with video and/or motors yet?


Hi starseeker, great job with the stool and the detail on the communications console.....:thumbsup: As for the com screen, I will be putting video in there but it will be a little different then what I've put in my past builds. It will be rear projection...... There is not enough room for a LCD display, it's too narrow, so here are some early pictures of my approach. This is a toy that was big this Christmas and sold for about $100, but I found them at Drugstore.com for about $38.00 apace plus free shipping, so I grabbed two. Now they are up to $50.00, I did find one more on ebay for $42.00 with free shipping and got it today, that was fast.....:thumbsup: So far I've just done tests outside the ship, but so far the video looks nice. I also needed to have the walls around the communication station together for a dry fit and some idea of how I will put this unit in there and the image to the screen. So I also started preping the walls for lighting, again these pictures are just a dry fit, I'll post more pictures as i move along. I've been very busy getting ready for this build, I got the circuit boards design, made and tested for the little motors I'll be using for my astrogator, the three displays in the main console and maybe the reels on the tape deck. I only had 20 boards made and just used the prototyping option, it's less money but you don't get soldermask or silk screening. If I thought I could sell enough of them I would have had more made.


----------



## teslabe

I just got the OLED displays I had hoped to use for the communication's screen.
But as you can see in the second picture it is too wide to fit.....:drunk: Too bad, the color and the brightness on this is just great and as soon as I get the video's frame rate and resolution right, it will look fantastic....... The video you see is after only about 30mins of work, It will take a bit more to get it right for this display, too bad i can't use it. Oh well I save it for another build....:wave:


----------



## Richard Baker

That's a shame- it does look great.
Any way to make it fit if you rotated it 90 degrees?

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> That's a shame- it does look great.
> Any way to make it fit if you rotated it 90 degrees?
> 
> .


Thank you Richard, you win some, you lose some, besides, I think the little projector will work very well. If I was to rotate the display, it would not fill the
screen's opening completely, if you look at the bottom, there's the display's
interface cable so I would have no image on one of the sides of my screen, good idea though.:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Someone asked if this driver board could drive more then one motor, yes it can.... It can drive two, the new board will be able to drive 10..... I thought
that most would want to have different effects from each motor, but if you don't care if all move the same, then this is what you might need. I will post a video in "My Photos"....:wave:


----------



## WEAPON X

teslabe said:


> Hi starseeker, great job with the stool and the detail on the communications console.....:thumbsup: As for the com screen, I will be putting video in there but it will be a little different then what I've put in my past builds. It will be rear projection...... There is not enough room for a LCD display, it's too narrow, so here are some early pictures of my approach. This is a toy that was big this Christmas and sold for about $100, but I found them at Drugstore.com for about $38.00 apace plus free shipping, so I grabbed two. Now they are up to $50.00, I did find one more on ebay for $42.00 with free shipping and got it today, that was fast.....:thumbsup: So far I've just done tests outside the ship, but so far the video looks nice. I also needed to have the walls around the communication station together for a dry fit and some idea of how I will put this unit in there and the image to the screen. So I also started preping the walls for lighting, again these pictures are just a dry fit, I'll post more pictures as i move along. I've been very busy getting ready for this build, I got the circuit boards design, made and tested for the little motors I'll be using for my astrogator, the three displays in the main console and maybe the reels on the tape deck. I only had 20 boards made and just used the prototyping option, it's less money but you don't get soldermask or silk screening. If I thought I could sell enough of them I would have had more made.


Awesome Mods.


----------



## teslabe

Well here is a photo of it working..... Wish I could post the video, I need to work on this......


----------



## teslabe

I got the video posted of the motors in action, look in "My Photos" folder.


----------



## Y3a

PAINTING STYLE

Has anyone thought about the style of painting you plan to do on your Jupiter 2 interior? Are you going to paint and detail for 'engineering precision' or to make the sections look like the set pieces they represent? The second method may require dry brushing, washes, and perhaps mixing slightly lighter, darker or subdued variants of the colors. It may mean a careful use of flat vs glossy finishes. Anybody thought of giving the Jupiter 2 that 3rd year 'lived in" look?


----------



## teslabe

Finally got what I hope is the last parts for my build. I wanted the Static Discharge tubes to be more then just "static", it would have been nice if I could have made a "Jacob's Ladder", like on the show, but the spark gap was just too small. So I went with CCFLs in glass tubes. My first try was a bust, the first set of lamps whir too long at 100mm. I didn't know there was a landing gear bay under one of the Static Discharge Tubes. So the new tubes came in at 2mm x
60mm and look good, the glass tubes I got from Amazon are 2mm x 152mm. I had to cut them down to 60mm, the same size as the plastic rod, part #104. Here is a test fit and lighting of the tubes, they are bright......
I may drive each tube with it's own inverter, that way I can animate each tube.......


----------



## teslabe

I forgot this picture showing the cut glass tube, even though it's of the 100mm tube, the cutting was the same, a simple scribe with a file and the glass tube snaps very clean. You need the glass tube because the CCFL gets very hot when on for any length of time so it acts as a heat shield. Would hate to melt
the plastic......


----------



## g_xii

teslabe said:


> Finally got what I hope is the last parts for my build. I wanted the Static Discharge tubes to be more then just "static", it would have been nice if I could have made a "Jacob's Ladder", like on the show, but the spark gap was just too small. So I went with CCFLs in glass tubes. My first try was a bust, the first set of lamps whir too long at 100mm. I didn't know there was a landing gear bay under one of the Static Discharge Tubes. So the new tubes came in at 2mm x
> 60mm and look good, the glass tubes I got from Amazon are 2mm x 152mm. I had to cut them down to 60mm, the same size at the plastic rod, part #104. Here is a test fit and lighting of the tubes, they are bright......
> I may drive each tube with it's own inverter, that way I can animate each tube.......


 
You should think about trying it with UV CCFL's. Not so bright - but interesting!

--Henry


----------



## teslabe

g_xii said:


> You should think about trying it with UV CCFL's. Not so bright - but interesting!
> 
> --Henry


Hi Henry, that would have been nice, but no one that I could find sell a 2mm x 60mm UV CCFL, I looked long and hard...... The lamp size had to be this size to fit the kit's top and bottom pieces,(#21 and #22) and the 2mm glass tubes I got from Amazon.com. The brightness is not a big deal, I can easily adjust the brightness. I can live with white CCFL here......:wave:


----------



## Dave in RI

*Those 3 Little Landing Bay Doors*

Looking over those 3 doors that go in the 3 landing bays, I've decided not to use them. When you place them side-by-side next to the main hatch, you can see how out of scale they are. 
Instead, I decided to put in a ladder like the one used inside the ship.
And although the location of the rear landing leg is not directly below the lower ladder (as implied in the episode _The Derelict_), a ladder was used to get in and out, and it will look more in-scale.


----------



## Dar

Dave in RI said:


> Looking over those 3 doors that go in the 3 landing bays, I've decided not to use them. When you place them side-by-side next to the main hatch, you can see how out of scale they are.
> Instead, I decided to put in a ladder like the one used inside the ship.
> And although the location of the rear landing leg is not directly below the lower ladder (as implied in the episode _The Derelict_), a ladder was used to get in and out, and it will look more in-scale.


I actually like those doors. I consider them more of stoop down doors than a full scale walk right through door.


----------



## Y3a

Why not use it in back of the "Pod access door" as the back entrance of the Pod?


----------



## toyroy

Dar said:


> I actually like those doors. I consider them more of stoop down doors than a full scale walk right through door.


Sort of Robinson doggy doors? I prefer "The Derelict" ladders.


----------



## skinnyonce

Dar said:


> I actually like those doors. I consider them more of stoop down doors than a full scale walk right through door.




Because of SPACE constraints I always thought they were like the doors on a submarine, those are kind of a duck your head idea..

doesn't explain the robot getting thru one though


----------



## Paulbo

skinnyonce said:


> ...doesn't explain the robot getting thru one though


He could cut himself in half and have the top half float through the door like it did in the 3rd season episode. Of course that doesn't explain how the bottom half gets down the stairs - I don't think the legs have that kind of mobility.


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Ya Know, "Innovation Comics"(Long defunct), back in the mid 90's, did a special issue where they show the Landed Jupiter Two(with the gear down), and the Robot being hoisted up by those Shoulder hooks he has, from a hatch On the lower Hull,near the fusion core...It looked cool.

I still have the issue somewhere..a lot of great art work by Jim Key


----------



## skinnyonce

Paulbo said:


> He could cut himself in half and have the top half float through the door like it did in the 3rd season episode. Of course that doesn't explain how the bottom half gets down the stairs - I don't think the legs have that kind of mobility.




Actually Dr.Smith, did that to him in the episode. And the robot was not a happy camper about it, 
lot of good ship and pod scenes in that episode...


----------



## Seaview

"Boredom, like necessessity, is very often the mother of invention, dear William".


----------



## Fernando Mureb

A very low budget too.


----------



## teslabe

I've had a few ask about making the scanner on top rotate, well, here are early pictures of how I will be doing mine. I hope to post a video this weekend of it in motion. This is a stepper motor, not a DC brushed or brushless motor, those can't spin slowly without a reduction gear head and that makes it all too big . I can micro-step this motor and that makes it great for something like this build..... The bad thing is that you need the drive it with a driver circuit, not as easy as just putting a battery across it's leads. But the circuit is very easy to build.......:thumbsup:


----------



## skinnyonce

teslabe said:


> I've had a few ask about making the scanner on top rotate, well, here are early pictures of how I will be doing mine. I hope to post a video this weekend of it in motion. This is a stepper motor, not a DC brushed or brushless motor, those can't spin slowly without a reduction gear head and that makes it all too big . I can micro-step this motor and that makes it great for something like this build..... The bad thing is that you need the drive it with a driver circuit, not as easy as just putting a battery across it's leads. But the circuit is very easy to build.......:thumbsup:



Will this layout allow for led's, or is it un-lit. I noticed on the TSDS upper light dome section, there is a hole in the center of the leds pc board, which may allow both the lights and a rotating plastic scanner pc,,


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Will this layout allow for led's, or is it un-lit. I noticed on the TSDS upper light dome section, there is a hole in the center of the leds pc board, which may allow both the lights and a rotating plastic scanner pc,,


Not without a rotary joint to supply power to the LEDs or a F/O setup. My build is for the hardcore that need it to spin..... For most, I would go with Henry's setup. It's easy to install and looks great.....:thumbsup:


----------



## starseeker

Just bought 500' of 025 optic fibre and 200' of 050 (from 
http://thefiberopticstore.com/FOS-mainpage.htm
) and so I'm getting ready to start getting ready to think about lights and wires and stuff. Into my head popped a vague memory of possibly an early second season episode where the Jupiter 2 lands somewhere in darkness and Don turns on landing lights. If that really happened, it does make sense that the J2 would have some kind of exterior lighting. Be kind of cool to add some kind of lights in the landing gear, maybe a pair of surface mount leds per leg, concealed under a step.


----------



## skinnyonce

starseeker said:


> Just bought 500' of 025 optic fibre and 200' of 050 (from
> http://thefiberopticstore.com/FOS-mainpage.htm
> ) and so I'm getting ready to start getting ready to think about lights and wires and stuff. Into my head popped a vague memory of possibly an early second season episode where the Jupiter 2 lands somewhere in darkness and Don turns on landing lights. If that really happened, it does make sense that the J2 would have some kind of exterior lighting. Be kind of cool to add some kind of lights in the landing gear, maybe a pair of surface mount leds per leg, concealed under a step.



In the episode the GHOST PLANET Don is asked to "throw a light out there" so they can see what happened to the robot, so yes in fact there was some type of lighting used..not sure of the exact location on the ship though, probably some where on the third level


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Will this layout allow for led's, or is it un-lit. I noticed on the TSDS upper light dome section, there is a hole in the center of the leds pc board, which may allow both the lights and a rotating plastic scanner pc,,


I thought about your question more and here is what I will be putting in my build. The LEDs are very very small but I used 3M masking tape to hold the LEDs in place as I soldered 32AWG buss wire to them. Although not a great circle, it will fit. It's outside diameter is 0.75" so it will sit below the lip of part #34...:thumbsup: I will be using 2-3mm FO though the bumps in front of both dishes, more pictures too come.......:wave: So video will come maybe next weekend, depands on how far I get this weekend....


----------



## Richard Baker

I love the way you use those tiny LEDs- they are almost invisible but when you do see them they look like scaled lighting.

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> I love the way you use those tiny LEDs- they are almost invisible but when you do see them they look like scaled lighting.
> 
> .


Thank you so much Richard......:wave: Your comments make me feel like I just might know how to build this kit..... After 40 pulse years I just hope I can do it right..... I'm so happy that skinnyonce put the question out there.....


----------



## Paulbo

That is so cool, Kent. I love what you do with the little LEDs.


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> That is so cool, Kent. I love what you do with the little LEDs.


Wow Paul, thank you..... The small LEDs have always been easy, they fit in most places. It's the other lighting that can be hard to fit, like the Static Discharge Tubes, that was a real nice find.....


----------



## starseeker

Boy oh boy, I can hardly wait to see your Jupiter 2 as it all starts to come together. That thing is not just going to sit on a shelf and look pretty, it will be alive. 
Amazing work!
I accidentally saw a couple minutes of Antiques Roadshow the other day. They visited a museum with 1930s animated jewelery store window displays. Some of the most beautiful window displays I've ever seen. One was of a scuba diver gesturing "come on up"and mermaid gesturing "come on down". They used horizontal rotating flat, zig-zagged wires to represent a wave/light ripple effect. The effect was startlingly cool. What immediately came to mind was the idea of using rotating zig-zagging stainless guitar string inside the static tubes. The wire is thin and will be reasonably invisible inside the tubes. It's polished stainless so all the right angles along it's length will catch reflections as it rotates, giving some kind of moving light effect inside the tubes. When the time comes, something I may have to try.
Small leds have always been easy??? My model room is wallpapered with the ones that got away. Unfortunately, it's a wallpaper too fine to be seen. Sigh.


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Boy oh boy, I can hardly wait to see your Jupiter 2 as it all starts to come together. That thing is not just going to sit on a shelf and look pretty, it will be alive.
> Amazing work!
> I accidentally saw a couple minutes of Antiques Roadshow the other day. They visited a museum with 1930s animated jewelery store window displays. Some of the most beautiful window displays I've ever seen. One was of a scuba diver gesturing "come on up"and mermaid gesturing "come on down". They used horizontal rotating flat, zig-zagged wires to represent a wave/light ripple effect. The effect was startlingly cool. What immediately came to mind was the idea of using rotating zig-zagging stainless guitar string inside the static tubes. The wire is thin and will be reasonably invisible inside the tubes. It's polished stainless so all the right angles along it's length will catch reflections as it rotates, giving some kind of moving light effect inside the tubes. When the time comes, something I may have to try.
> Small leds have always been easy??? My model room is wallpapered with the ones that got away. Unfortunately, it's a wallpaper too fine to be seen. Sigh.


Thank you very much for the kind words my friend.....:wave: This kit just drives one to modify it......:thumbsup: I tried to make a very small Jacob's Ladder, like in the real static discharge tubes but the gap between the wires was just too small so it just arced at the base and would not travel up the wires......:drunk: So I will be using the CCFL that I found online with the glass tubes over them. I hope to spend some time and modify it's drive to get a "liquid" effect in the tubes, that might look cool..... As for the small LEDs, I use blue masking tape to hold them as I solder the wires to them, works most the time, I've lost a few on the floor, too.....


----------



## Punchcard76

teslabe, Where did you get those tiny LED's ?


----------



## starseeker

I don't know where Testlabe shops but I get mine on ebay. If you want to see just how small they are, check this site:
http://led.linear1.org/surface-mount-leds/
Now you know why they're so easy to lose.
For their tiny size, you would never believe how bright they are. I'd say fully as bright as the regular fat leds I was using 20 years ago.
Hey, who put them inside their Chariot spotlights and why haven't we seen pictures?


----------



## skinnyonce

teslabe said:


> Thank you so much Richard......:wave: Your comments make me feel like I just might know how to build this kit..... After 40 pulse years I just hope I can do it right..... I'm so happy that skinnyonce put the question out there.....




Teslabe ! 

I dont know wether to spank ya! or thank ya! now you got my head running in circles with ideas,, I would think a bigger circle of led's attached to the soffit ( that big white pc that holds the walls together), with small holes drilled to acomodate the led's, would make for some descent lighting options also..

are those little leds the diffused ones, (like what i ordered) or the clear ones.


skinny........


----------



## teslabe

Punchcard76 said:


> teslabe, Where did you get those tiny LED's ?


Here you go, they do offer 50 pcs for $15.99 with free shipping. I hope this helps....:wave:

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-PCS-0603-SM...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3351437643


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Teslabe !
> 
> are those little leds the diffused ones, (like what i ordered) or the clear ones.
> The small one is a TB0603 and the large one is a TB1206 and they are bright at
> 2300mcd.
> 
> 
> skinny........


Sorry about your head..... They have a milky yellow hue to the lens.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Teslabe
I am downloading every image and taking careful notes. But not that I can do something even close of that wonderful work in this life. I'm thinking beyond it. Maybe if reincarnation is true, I hope I can get where you already are in my next fifth life. :wave:


----------



## WmTodd

All wonderful info, isn't it... :thumbsup:

In faithful reproduction of Irwin Allen adventures, how about having all the panels and controls explode in a shower of sparks when you tilt the entire model?


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe
> I am downloading every image and taking careful notes. But not that I can do something even close of that wonderful work in this life. I'm thinking beyond it. Maybe if reincarnation is true, I hope I can get where you already are in my next fifth life. :wave:


Hi Frenando, thank you for your nice comments, there are far better builders in this group, I just try too do the best I can for my eyes.....:wave: I do take alot of pictures of my mods, just so I can remember what I did, so if you have a specific project, send me a PM......


----------



## teslabe

WmTodd said:


> All wonderful info, isn't it... :thumbsup:
> 
> In faithful reproduction of Irwin Allen adventures, how about having all the panels and controls explode in a shower of sparks when you tilt the entire model?


I have alot of lighting that take high voltage to run, so you my just get your wish.......:lol:


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Teslabe !
> 
> I dont know wether to spank ya! or thank ya! now you got my head running in circles with ideas,, I would think a bigger circle of led's attached to the soffit ( that big white pc that holds the walls together), with small holes drilled to acomodate the led's, would make for some descent lighting options also..
> 
> are those little leds the diffused ones, (like what i ordered) or the clear ones.
> 
> 
> skinny........


Skinny, great idea, though I will be using these. They look closer to lighting that might be found in the real ship. After all the J2 is real, isn't it..... I thought I had a picture of the lights, give me about 20mins
and I'll post it after I take it, boy my mind is so bad anymore.....
Here's the picture.


----------



## Opus Penguin

teslabe said:


> I thought about your question more and here is what I will be putting in my build. The LEDs are very very small but I used 3M masking tape to hold the LEDs in place as I soldered 32AWG buss wire to them. Although not a great circle, it will fit. It's outside diameter is 0.75" so it will sit below the lip of part #34...:thumbsup: I will be using 2-3mm FO though the bumps in front of both dishes, more pictures too come.......:wave: So video will come maybe next weekend, depands on how far I get this weekend....


So will the lights flash or will the "flash" occur from the rotating scanner? In other words, do the LED's flash in sequence like the fusion core or do they stay on and the spinning scanner creates the effect? I like where you're going with this and may want to try this.


----------



## teslabe

Opus Penguin said:


> So will the lights flash or will the "flash" occur from the rotating scanner? In other words, do the LED's flash in sequence like the fusion core or do they stay on and the spinning scanner creates the effect? I like where you're going with this and may want to try this.


Opus, very good question, for now the LEDs are on continuously and the scanner should give the effect I want as the FO stakes move over them. It 
should look just like the effects shots on the show. This is the first build so it could change if I don't like the effect. I will just have to see the out come. I used 2mm FO in-place of the bumps in front of the dishes. you can see how the FO was cut for the fit. I'm looking at copper tape as a light block. I hope this helps......:wave:


----------



## Y3a

You should have replaced the mounting circle with some clear plastic. I will be doing that on my HERO version of the J2. It will also have 6 small LED's mounted about 1/2 inch below the spinner.


----------



## teslabe

Y3a said:


> You should have replaced the mounting circle with some clear plastic. I will be doing that on my HERO version of the J2. It will also have 6 small LED's mounted about 1/2 inch below the spinner.


I'm fine with the way I'm doing it.....


----------



## skinnyonce

teslabe said:


> Skinny, great idea, though I will be using these. They look closer to lighting that might be found in the real ship. After all the J2 is real, isn't it..... I thought I had a picture of the lights, give me about 20mins
> and I'll post it after I take it, boy my mind is so bad anymore.....
> Here's the picture.




Hey Teslabe,

All is looking great here and below (post's),, would you share what kind, and where did you get these lights at, in this post's photo they look to be about 3/4 of an inch square ? is that close.. 

skinny........


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Hey Teslabe,
> 
> All is looking great here and below (post's),, would you share what kind, and where did you get these lights at, in this post's photo they look to be about 3/4 of an inch square ? is that close..
> 
> skinny........


http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G13406

Here are the CCFL 

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16565

Here are the drivers for them, it can drive two lamps. Now understand the these lamps run at high voltage and at high temps (135deg F). I plan to use glass squires as heat buffers.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Teslabe

I think there were two types of lighting for the set: one of which would be the "true inside of the Jupiter 2" and another, the film set, which must have required a series of equipment for lighting and scenery actors. The lighting of the "true Jupiter 2", ie, that it would be if the ship had really existed, would be the lights provided by the wall beams.

Would you be considering the idea of illuminating the wall beams, as did that anonymous fellow Japanese, whose site someone mentioned in a post / thread before? (I forget where)


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Teslabe
> 
> I think there were two types of lighting for the set: one of which would be the "true inside of the Jupiter 2" and another, the film set, which must have required a series of equipment for lighting and scenery actors. The lighting of the "true Jupiter 2", ie, that it would be if the ship had really existed, would be the lights provided by the wall beams.
> 
> Would you be considering the idea of illuminating the wall beams, as did that anonymous fellow Japanese, whose site someone mentioned in a post / thread before? (I forget where)


Hi Fernando, just go back to post number 95, that should answer your question....:wave:


----------



## Paulbo

I was thinking along the same lines as Fernando, but with a twist ...

The LEDs that Kent is using are ideal for making more realistic "practical" lighting. Lighting isn't even throughout a room, and having small lights like that would enhance an interior by casting realistic shadows.


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> I was thinking along the same lines as Fernando, but with a twist ...
> 
> The LEDs that Kent is using are ideal for making more realistic "practical" lighting. Lighting isn't even throughout a room, and having small lights like that would enhance an interior by casting realistic shadows.


Paul, how do I respond to your very nice input........ I used what I thought would fit and yield the best effect, I can only hope it works.......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

I got the wires in place, now comes the paint.... I hate painting but it will be done before I do the video.....


----------



## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Hi Fernando, just go back to post number 95, that should answer your question....:wave:


Do you have pictures of one of them lit?


----------



## skinnyonce

teslabe said:


> http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G13406
> 
> Here are the CCFL
> 
> http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16565
> 
> Here are the drivers for them, it can drive two lamps. Now understand the these lamps run at high voltage and at high temps (135deg F). I plan to use glass squires as heat buffers.




Thanks Teslabe !


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Do you have pictures of one of them lit?


Not yet, but soon.....


----------



## Paulbo

Quick note on the pics in post #150: that's U channel as a conduit for the wiring, right? Very slick idea - it avoids the problems of loose wires down the road when tape, hot glue, what-have-you dries out. (Jots down idea in notebook for future reference.)

Did you snake the wires in after the "conduit" was in place, or glue the conduit over the wires?


----------



## WmTodd

Holy cow, I am like a kid in a candy shop with these forums since I've been here, taking notes, etc etc......I should be bookmarking as well, because it's hard to find some posts again....(!!) I remember seeing some discussion about the Jupiter 2 engine's sound effect and using it in some way with the model itself, and how it's found on the Bonus CD from the Fantasy Worlds of Irwin Allen....well, I just got that CD in the mail yesterday, now I have to find that thread (or posts within a thread) again. I hope that I am not :beatdeadhorse:, and now that I have this sound effect, I am wondering if it's something I want to pursue, or if its quality is good...or if it can be cleaned up and "oomphed" a little, whatever that means. It's pretty darn "oomphy" already, which is always a great thing, one of the most awesome sound effects from sci-fi ever. (i LOVE the way it's used in Planet of the Apes).

I think I would probably fade out the landing gear effect at the end of the sound byte (J2 landing in the Derelict), if I had the chops to do this, and given the correct software, I'm sure anything is possible. Any insight on this, anyone?


----------



## skinnyonce

WmTodd said:


> Holy cow, I am like a kid in a candy shop with these forums since I've been here, taking notes, etc etc......I should be bookmarking as well, because it's hard to find some posts again....(!!) I remember seeing some discussion about the Jupiter 2 engine's sound effect and using it in some way with the model itself, and how it's found on the Bonus CD from the Fantasy Worlds of Irwin Allen....well, I just got that CD in the mail yesterday, now I have to find that thread (or posts within a thread) again. I hope that I am not :beatdeadhorse:, and now that I have this sound effect, I am wondering if it's something I want to pursue, or if its quality is good...or if it can be cleaned up and "oomphed" a little, whatever that means. It's pretty darn "oomphy" already, which is always a great thing, one of the most awesome sound effects from sci-fi ever. (i LOVE the way it's used in Planet of the Apes).
> 
> I think I would probably fade out the landing gear effect at the end of the sound byte (J2 landing in the Derelict), if I had the chops to do this, and given the correct software, I'm sure anything is possible. Any insight on this, anyone?


Hello WmTodd, I find its easy to copy and paste the information in NOTEPAD, just divide your stuff how you like. paint, electrical, assembly, etc. etc..

As for the sound effects search "audacity, on the web it is a free music sound program that i played around with to save a certain part of the derelict take off/ landing from the cd, import into audacity and you can then loop what ever part you want to get the desired sound effects,( or something like that )


Oh teslabe!

I think (memory alpha please come in ) i sent you a wav file of the sound effects for the engine a while back, did you make a usable copy of the file we/I can use in our model by chance,

skinny............


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> Quick note on the pics in post #150: that's U channel as a conduit for the wiring, right? Very slick idea - it avoids the problems of loose wires down the road when tape, hot glue, what-have-you dries out. (Jots down idea in notebook for future reference.)
> 
> Did you snake the wires in after the "conduit" was in place, or glue the conduit over the wires?


Paul, my LHS is a joke and I'm too lazy to drive over to Smiths Brothers, maybe 
about 20mins further, so I pay..... The LHS only had Evergreens H-Column #287 1/4", so I had to cut the top two ribs to make a conduit, so I have some lite sanding to do to the top. And I had the wire covered as I glued the conduit in-place........:wave:


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Oh teslabe!
> 
> I think (memory alpha please come in ) i sent you a wav file of the sound effects for the engine a while back, did you make a usable copy of the file we/I can use in our model by chance,
> 
> skinny............


I got a few clips but ducktape sent me one that's great, I cleaned it up a bit, it was a little over-modulated. Send me an Email and I sendyou a copy..... I'm
going to use a cheap Ipod shuffle clone I got off EBay for about $12-14. It will play as soon as it's turned on and loop the file, as long as it's the only file on it. Here a small amp plugged into it.


----------



## Dave in RI

skinnyonce said:


> Hello WmTodd, I find its easy to copy and paste the information in NOTEPAD, just divide your stuff how you like. paint, electrical, assembly, etc. etc..
> ..



This is EXACTLY how I've been going about it! And saving all those great WIP pictures too


----------



## teslabe

*Scanner update*

This will be the last of my posts for this mod, it was just to answer a few who
asked if anyone was going to make their scanner rotate. Well, here is the last 
pictures and the video of how I did mine..... Look in, "My Photos", for the video. I hope this helps anyone who would like to do this.....:wave:


----------



## WmTodd

Skinnyonce, thanks for the reply, it seems so obvious I never even thought of it! 

I'm gonna look into that Audacity program as well, not sure if I'll do the sound thing, but there's always a possibility. 

I'll definitely be using magnets to keep the interior in place, assuming any future mods or lighting issues or fixits that may crop up.



Rl3058 said:


> Here is an idea I've been toying with:
> 
> Remove the door to the left of the ladder and open up the window to recreate the room from the episode "Visit to a Hostile Planet" when the ship is being chased by a Hypertomic missile.


Your idea stuck with me from the moment I read it awhile back, and that's exactly what I am doing. After hemming and hawing if I really wanted to do all this work, and then deciding that if I'm going to do this thing RIGHT, I may as well go a couple extra miles and make it awesome. SO, last night, I started to slice away CAREFULLY, the door. Now, it's obvious that without that door there, the strength of that piece is compromised, what with just an 1/8 inch slice of plastic remaining over the door jamb. So before I completely sliced away the door, I set the entire piece on a piece of paper and traced the contour of the non-visible side of the piece, scanned it and opened it at 600 dpi in Photoshop...using that scan of the tracing as a template, creating a vector image of the scan and then exporting that to Illustrator, where I went in and refined it, saving THAT out as an EPS file that I opened in Corel Draw, sending it to the Epilog Laser cutter. I cut that little jig out from an 1/8 inch-thick piece of white acrylic, and it fits snugly along the back of the wall piece, bracing it perfectly. A little putty and it's a strong as it was before I took the door off. 

I have pics of all this, give me a day or so to post them, not sure if anything I mentioned makes sense without illustrations, but I was so happy with myself, being able to do this, I had to share. 

I plan on doing this with the door between the elevator and the cryo tubes as well, so you'll be able to see the Johnny Lightning Space Pod I plan to set in there.

Which means, of course, I still need to create floors and wall pieces and a clear piece of acrylic for the viewport....all this, through a little bit of low tech as well as high tech. This laser cutter is turning out to be a very useful tool that I intend to fully explore.


----------



## liskorea317

WmTodd said:


> Skinnyonce, thanks for the reply, it seems so obvious I never even thought of it!
> 
> I'm gonna look into that Audacity program as well, not sure if I'll do the sound thing, but there's always a possibility.
> 
> I'll definitely be using magnets to keep the interior in place, assuming any future mods or lighting issues or fixits that may crop up.
> 
> 
> 
> Your idea stuck with me from the moment I read it awhile back, and that's exactly what I am doing. After hemming and hawing if I really wanted to do all this work, and then deciding that if I'm going to do this thing RIGHT, I may as well go a couple extra miles and make it awesome. SO, last night, I started to slice away CAREFULLY, the door. Now, it's obvious that without that door there, the strength of that piece is compromised, what with just an 1/8 inch slice of plastic remaining over the door jamb. So before I completely sliced away the door, I set the entire piece on a piece of paper and traced the contour of the non-visible side of the piece, scanned it and opened it at 600 dpi in Photoshop...using that scan of the tracing as a template, creating a vector image of the scan and then exporting that to Illustrator, where I went in and refined it, saving THAT out as an EPS file that I opened in Corel Draw, sending it to the Epilog Laser cutter. I cut that little jig out from an 1/8 inch-thick piece of white acrylic, and it fits snugly along the back of the wall piece, bracing it perfectly. A little putty and it's a strong as it was before I took the door off.
> 
> I have pics of all this, give me a day or so to post them, not sure if anything I mentioned makes sense without illustrations, but I was so happy with myself, being able to do this, I had to share.
> 
> I plan on doing this with the door between the elevator and the cryo tubes as well, so you'll be able to see the Johnny Lightning Space Pod I plan to set in there.
> 
> Which means, of course, I still need to create floors and wall pieces and a clear piece of acrylic for the viewport....all this, through a little bit of low tech as well as high tech. This laser cutter is turning out to be a very useful tool that I intend to fully explore.


How much does an Epilog laser cutter cost? That sounds very interesting!


----------



## WmTodd

I am working on the smallest one they make, which has a working area of 12" x 24", and is 25 watts.

I am told the boss paid over 20,000 bucks for htis several years ago, and it sat for ages because he got it for something it can't really do, which is etch directly onto borosilicate glass (it can etch onto glass, just not that kind of glass) He wants me to explore other avenues of income for it. I don't think he has the hobby market in mind, but then again, he's open to suggestions. 

It's my understanding that this same laser engraver today costs about 8000 bucks.

http://www.epiloglaser.com/news_zing_launch.htm


http://www.epiloglaser.com/


----------



## liskorea317

WmTodd said:


> I am working on the smallest one they make, which has a working area of 12" x 24", and is 25 watts.
> 
> I am told the boss paid over 20,000 bucks for htis several years ago, and it sat for ages because he got it for something it can't really do, which is etch directly onto borosilicate glass (it can etch onto glass, just not that kind of glass) He wants me to explore other avenues of income for it. I don't think he has the hobby market in mind, but then again, he's open to suggestions.
> 
> It's my understanding that this same laser engraver today costs about 8000 bucks.
> 
> http://www.epiloglaser.com/news_zing_launch.htm
> 
> 
> http://www.epiloglaser.com/



Thanks for the links and the pricing! Wow! If I was single...maybe...
Because I'm married, forget it!


----------



## WmTodd

Well, you could always tell her it's an investment for...







an investment for....














SO, anyway, I went ahead and created a second wall behind everything, making the door I sawed off from the main piece a pocket door. Now I have a wall for this add-on room, and need to create a couple side walls and a floor....PLUS whatever will go into that room. SOmeone mentioned in the thread about removing freeze tubes that the pilot (ie, Major West) should have a cabin on the upper deck in order to have direct access to the cockpit. Seems like a good idea, making it a cabin of some sort.

I also opened up the window on the hull, so you can see in and through the doorway. 

I bought some styrene plastic sheets at the hobby store today, and right now, I'm feeling like... :freak: whathaveIdone...

:lol:


----------



## Paulbo

liskorea317 said:


> Thanks for the links and the pricing! Wow! If I was single...maybe...
> Because I'm married, forget it!


Ditto!

Right now it's still more cost effective to hire out my laser cutting. I'd love to have one in house to play with ... oops, typo, I meant to type "to _work _with"


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> Ditto!
> 
> Right now it's still more cost effective to hire out my laser cutting. I'd love to have one in house to play with ... oops, typo, I meant to type "to _work _with"


http://www.dimensionprinting.com/3d-printers/3d-printing-uprint.aspx

I've come close to buying one of these 3D printers, just don't think I could get enough work to justify the cost.....


----------



## teslabe

Well, now that I'm done with the Scanner mod, I've started work on the lighted wall beams, I've got three light strips done and hope to have the rest done next weekend and installed....... Now comes the fun part of the light leaks, I hope that the same thing I did with the Scanner will work here....


----------



## Y3a

SO...... Is ANYBODY supporting their Jupiter 2 by wires/thread/monofiliment??

What are your ideas? This is kind of important for those doing WORKING landing gear, and still important if you are supporting the model above Henry's Launch Tower without gear. Will the plastic in the hull deform over time? HOW will you attach whatever kind of support you want? I'm doing electric power down the thinnest K&S Metals 3 foot length of steel wire. I bend the ends into an "L" shape and put them into a "Wheel Collar" and tighten. I have the rear lead as ground and the other two are power for the core motor and the landing gear. Power for lights will be on-board (Core, Bubble and cockpit) My jackshaft will be installed under the cockpit with batteries around the bottom. I have thin wood gear well sides that look like the odd pairs used in the Hero and the "A" frame actually has a purpose to be the top pivot point for the gear ram!! BWA-HA-HA It works great with the brass rods I'm using so I can support the model by brass rod and footpads! Very nice. The scale landing gear leg is perfect for the modification. First drill the holes for the brass tubes used to pivot the back of the leg. A set of wood blocks can be drilled to the correct height needed to make sure the gear underside blocks the view of the slit between leg and hull. Add a very thin plastic sheet if you need.


----------



## liskorea317

teslabe said:


> Well, now that I'm done with the Scanner mod, I've started work on the lighted wall beams, I've got three light strips done and hope to have the rest done next weekend and installed....... Now comes the fun part of the light leaks, I hope that the same thing I did with the Scanner will work here....


Where do you get lights like these? I've looked at every link people have added here and I've never seen these prticular type of LEDs. The guy from Japan seems to use these types, and I'd like to get some myself.
Thanks!


----------



## teslabe

liskorea317 said:


> Where do you get lights like these? I've looked at every link people have added here and I've never seen these prticular type of LEDs. The guy from Japan seems to use these types, and I'd like to get some myself.
> Thanks!


http://www.kingbrightusa.com/product.asp?catalog_name=LED&product_id=AA2810AQWS/G

Here you go, but I got mine from some surplus LCD backlight units I bought for
the floor lighting in my Flying Sub. I trim off as much of the flex circuit and cut them to fit and rewire them. I don't remember seeing the guy in Japan using this type of LED, I could be wrong though.....


----------



## teslabe

Here is a look at the rewire and in my FS. These can be made to be very thin once you get rid of the metal frame. I got 110 of them for around $1.00 each
a few years ago so I use the when I can.....:wave:


----------



## teslabe

As I thought, the gentleman in Japan is using much larger LEDs and they are not right-angle, so he had to make his walls thicker so they'd fit. The ones I'm
using will allow me to keep the walls as is. He's done some beautiful work, I just want my walls to be the ones that came in the kit.......:wave:

P.S., here is his wall and the insert shows the LED he used next to the ones I'm using.


----------



## skinnyonce

liskorea317 said:


> Where do you get lights like these? I've looked at every link people have added here and I've never seen these prticular type of LEDs. The guy from Japan seems to use these types, and I'd like to get some myself.
> Thanks!


heres some i found 3.5mm x 2.8mm small but workable,
they look like the japan build ones.. I got some like teslabe and the dang things are the size of rice or smaller no way I can see them or solder them.. 



http://cgi.ebay.com/100-pcs-SMD-SMT...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c1085fefe


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> heres some i found 3.5mm x 2.8mm small but workable,
> they look like the japan build ones.. I got some like teslabe and the dang things are the size of rice or smaller no way I can see them or solder them..


I believe they are the same, as for the ones I'm using, well, I bought a stereo microscope off e-bay........:thumbsup: I could not do this work without it, after I turned 50, my eyes started to go fast......


----------



## liskorea317

teslabe said:


> http://www.kingbrightusa.com/product.asp?catalog_name=LED&product_id=AA2810AQWS/G
> 
> Here you go, but I got mine from some surplus LCD backlight units I bought for
> the floor lighting in my Flying Sub. I trim off as much of the flex circuit and cut them to fit and rewire them. I don't remember seeing the guy in Japan using this type of LED, I could be wrong though.....


Thanks for the link! I think he used these LEDs or something similar in his PL Jupiter 2 for the ceiling, and maybe for the Moebius J2 for the walls. Maybe not the same as yours but quite similar!
I appreciate the link!


----------



## Fernando Mureb

The desire to see my kit with a beautiful lighting seems farther and farther away when I come across pictures like teslabe's workbench.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Or, like the ones from this anonimous japanese genius.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> The desire to see my kit with a beautiful lighting seems farther and farther away when I come across pictures like teslabe's workbench.


Hi Fernando, with all the great aftermarket lighting kits that are out there, you don't need a workbench like mine to put lights in your J2, although, if you are going to work with electronics, I would at least get a grounding mat and wrist strap, "ESD", you know......:thumbsup: My workbench is the way it is because I like to build my own electronics for my builds, it's more fun for me...... 
I kinda think you'd do a great job with what's available, plus they are all great companies with nice people there to help. Come on and take the plunge.....:wave:


----------



## skinnyonce

Fernando Mureb said:


> The desire to see my kit with a beautiful lighting seems farther and farther away when I come across pictures like teslabe's workbench.


Imitation is the fondest form of flattery, I too have reservations. But I will copy all that I see to the best of my abilitys,and if I should fail at such a grand endeavor.... theres always sell it on EBAY, and start over again


----------



## mmmmp

Just gonna' say....I am simply amazed at how *my* lighting has enhanced my build. I'm NO master, certainly no Beatlepaul or Teslabe, but here's what I did. (I included one WIP)

Leds in the landing wells, Leds on the ceiling soffit, blue leds behind the magna panels and a few other things I'm still playing around with. The drama of simply lighting cannot be overstated. If you can solder, it can be done. Bulkhead lights, spinning tape reels aside, are way beyond me....try brother. It's worth a couple of hours.


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> Just gonna' say....I am simply amazed at how *my* lighting has enhanced my build. I'm NO master, certainly no Beatlepaul or Teslabe, but here's what I did. (I included one WIP)


"Master"...... I'm embarrassed and humbled at the same time... I'm far from a master at anything. Not a day goes by that I don't learn something from this great group or amazed at the talent that resides from within......:thumbsup:
I thank you for the kind words...... But at best, I just love Moebius's models
and tend to go nuts. It's because they are so well engineered, with thought given for the builders like us, that we see the stuff we do in these kits......:thumbsup: That said, thank you very much for the nice words......:wave:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Me A Master?!?!?!Surley you jest Sir!

I am humbled by your kind remarks, but like everyone else I am learning Something new everyday!!
I just love actually BUILDING my models!!!


----------



## teslabe

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G14197

FYI....... I used a "Stepper Motor", and not a DC Brushed or Brushless Motor in my Scanner mod...... You will not be able to make a Brushed or Brushless motor spin slow enough without a gear-head on it to look right and that would make the motor too long for your build, it will hang down into your interior....:drunk: I thought I posted this link here, but it was in a different thread, sorry......:wave: As I posted in post #118, it is not as easy as a DC motor to use but it's much better.......:thumbsup:
Someone had ask the question.....:wave:


----------



## mmmmp

I meant what I said gents! 

Sigh...I'm gonna' try one last time to send a couple of WIP pix.....First, very sorry for the poor quality. Just wanted to show ya *something*. Man, I was looking at those updates on the guy in Japan...almost makes me want to start from scratch. But, if anything, it just goes to show what *can* be done to this kit. You combine his work, BeatlePaul, Tesla and all the other's around here, it proves a Hi-Qual Studio prop can be built. In fact, from what I've seen / researched....almost all of the builds ***EXCEED*** the filming miniature. Besides, if ya' think about it, we're trying to re-create the live-action 1:1 set which is almost an impossibilty.

Oh, yeah. I stumbled upon that Dr. Smith in a bowling alley mock-up.....looks great!

Your pal,
Mark


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> I meant what I said gents!
> 
> Sigh...I'm gonna' try one last time to send a couple of WIP pix.....First, very sorry for the poor quality. Just wanted to show ya *something*. Man, I was looking at those updates on the guy in Japan...almost makes me want to start from scratch. But, if anything, it just goes to show what *can* be done to this kit. You combine his work, BeatlePaul, Tesla and all the other's around here, it proves a Hi-Qual Studio prop can be built. In fact, from what I've seen / researched....almost all of the builds ***EXCEED*** the filming miniature. Besides, if ya' think about it, we're trying to re-create the live-action 1:1 set which is almost an impossibilty.
> 
> Oh, yeah. I stumbled upon that Dr. Smith in a bowling alley mock-up.....looks great!
> 
> Your pal,
> Mark


Mark, the pictures look great......:thumbsup: Check your camera for a Macro setting, most digital cameras have it, it will look like a "cartoon tulip" icon in the settings or on one of the buttons on top or in back of your camera. I love to see a clearer image of the flight console......:wave:
Well I got the last of my lighting strips for my walls done today......:freak: This has been a very busy week, I got some work done for someone in the group and will get that off to him tomorrow, the wall lighting being done will now let me put them in and start some of the painting. Plus over in the "Model Lighting" thread, someone asked, "HELP! Sequential turn signals". Now I just can't let that one go, he asked for help putting sequential lights in his Die Cast 2010 Mustang. So I worked on that this week, take a look, it may be a lighting effect that could work in the J-2. I have the video posted in "My Photos", folder. It's an easy circuit to build with cheap parts.....:wave:


----------



## XMAN64

Img_1444.jpg Img_1443.jpg
This is nothing compared to what some folks have done here.........but I took part number # 35 and drilled 8 holes and took Henry's 8 chaser lights and slipped them in from underneath......this way you don't see the board from the top....and it works works just fine.


----------



## teslabe

XMAN64 said:


> Img_1444.jpg Img_1443.jpg
> This is nothing compared to what some folks have done here.........but I took part number # 35 and drilled 8 holes and took Henry's 8 chaser lights and slipped them in from underneath......this way you don't see the board from the top....and it works works just fine.


Excellent work, please post more pictures....:thumbsup: I wish more people would take just a few minutes and post the work they've done. I know I love looking at them........:wave:


----------



## skinnyonce

XMAN64 said:


> Img_1444.jpg Img_1443.jpg
> This is nothing compared to what some folks have done here.........but I took part number # 35 and drilled 8 holes and took Henry's 8 chaser lights and slipped them in from underneath......this way you don't see the board from the top....and it works works just fine.


Nice touch XMAN64, 
simple, clean, and looks like you still might be able motorize the dish with some slight modifications,,

skinny..........


----------



## mmmmp

Thanks guys! Indeed, I just bought my Digi-cam and I barely know how to use it. My cell phone camera seems to be easier to use. I just wanted to show you guys something. Compared to some other builds, well, it's not great - but it ain't bad. 

I've now prewired all the LEDS, drilled out most of placements and am ready for - almost - final assy. Some of my colors are not exact, but really 'pop' in person. The best part is how much I've learned from the build which will make my 'inflight' all the better. 

One tip: I used blue LEDS and a standard Tamiya blue for the Magna-panels. It's a bit too blue, but yellow LEDS under the freezing tubes helps compliment this oversight. I should have used flat white or Duck-Egg. Also, I had to replace some white LEDS over the Astrogater / pilot area...they were too bright. No big deal to fix, but it was detracting some some practical lighting...realistic shadows are my main objective. Less can be more. 

I'm going to do a dry-fit of everything tonight and post a couple of pix.(Man, I don't really even *want* to finish this...but if I start 'improving' it too much...well, we know how that goes!

Oh yeah...gotta' think about the upper-dish too.
Best,
Mark


----------



## XMAN64

Thanks Teslabe and skinnyonce....I appreciate the compliments. This kit is simply amazing.....as well as this site.


----------



## teslabe

XMAN64 said:


> Thanks Teslabe and skinnyonce....I appreciate the compliments. This kit is simply amazing.....as well as this site.


You're very welcome and a belated welcome to the group.....


----------



## g_xii

XMAN64 said:


> Img_1444.jpg Img_1443.jpg
> This is nothing compared to what some folks have done here.........but I took part number # 35 and drilled 8 holes and took Henry's 8 chaser lights and slipped them in from underneath......this way you don't see the board from the top....and it works works just fine.


That looks really good! How does it look lit?

--Henry


----------



## starmanmm

Teslab... I am always amazed at your electronic abilities with it comes to your work! :thumbsup: 
XMAN64, I too would like to see how your step up looks lit.


----------



## XMAN64

Thanks Henry........not a problem guys.....first of all this was very easy to do........ I guess I can download a small clip so you can see it lit in action. I think it looks great.......it looks like the light is coming from underneath and reflecting off the dish.....
only the tips of the led's are visible ...(which is all that you need to see IMO )....and the led's are pointing up so the bright led's do not take away from the dish. This lighting kit is a must have...... especially if you're like me and do not have the skills to make the dish spin.....actually I think this kit is perfect even if you are able to make the dish spin.......


----------



## teslabe

starmanmm said:


> Teslab... I am always amazed at your electronic abilities with it comes to your work! :thumbsup:
> XMAN64, I too would like to see how your step up looks lit.


Thank you for the kind comments.......:wave: I take a lot of pictures and post links where anyone can get the parts I use. I didn't use Microcontroller's in most of my builds, just don't have the time to sit down and write the code...... Besides most of the "F/X" I want in my builds, a "micro" would be overkill......:freak:


----------



## XMAN64

Here's the clip showing how the lights look. I opened an account with you tube just to be able to show this. Hope link works.


----------



## starmanmm

Link worked.


----------



## teslabe

XMAN64 said:


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4YsCGrH6g4
> Here's the clip showing how the lights look. I opened an account with you tube just to be able to show this. Hope link works.


Very good effect.......:thumbsup: Did you say it was not moving???? I think you're pulling our leg ......


----------



## XMAN64

Thanks Teslabe.......What I like is the fact that the light that you see is all light reflected off the dish...you hardly see any direct led light......could not have been done without the TSDS kit .


----------



## starmanmm

So, you just installed the lights, from the TSDS kit andjust put the dish on top of it and let it do it's thing?


----------



## Opus Penguin

teslabe said:


> http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G14197
> 
> FYI....... I used a "Stepper Motor", and not a DC Brushed or Brushless Motor in my Scanner mod...... You will not be able to make a Brushed or Brushless motor spin slow enough without a gear-head on it to look right and that would make the motor too long for your build, it will hang down into your interior....:drunk: I thought I posted this link here, but it was in a different thread, sorry......:wave: As I posted in post #118, it is not as easy as a DC motor to use but it's much better.......:thumbsup:
> Someone had ask the question.....:wave:


Did you use the schematic to build the circuit for the motor on the website, or did you build it on your own? I am not electronically savvy, but my brother in law is and I wanted to see if he could build the circuit for the motor for me. I just need to know the correct schematics you used.


----------



## XMAN64

(responding to Starmanmm) Just in case someone wants to do this.....I first drilled eight holes on piece # 35 ....making sure as you go that the leds fit through.....(take your time ,you don't want to damage this piece) Now you have to make the led's fit through the opening from underneath the inside of the hull. You will need to file a bit off the rim to accommodate each light seperately (make sure that you leave enough rim on the opening so piece 35 can rest upon without going through). Once the lights fit through piece number 35 and it fits through the opening .......simply Place the lights from underneath and place piece number 35 on top.....then place the dish on top of piece number 35..... Make sure that you secure the wires to the lights to the top of the inside with tape or they will break off......I hope I didn't complicate this.....I'm not good with writing instructions)


----------



## teslabe

Opus Penguin said:


> Did you use the schematic to build the circuit for the motor on the website, or did you build it on your own? I am not electronically savvy, but my brother in law is and I wanted to see if he could build the circuit for the motor for me. I just need to know the correct schematics you used.


I did used the one that you can download from their website, but I did make some value changes to the Pot and Cap in the circuit so the motor would spin slow enough for my uses. I also did a layout and had about 20 boards made. I'll be putting about 6 motors in my build and not all can run off the same board for many reasons, so it was just easier to make some little boards. Here is a picture of the board I did. Feel free to send me a PM if you need some help.


----------



## starmanmm

Ya know... I can wire up leds no problem... but what you guys are doing here is beyond me. 

Not luckly to have someone who is good at this stuff. Most of the guys in my club are either car guys or military, so lighting is not on their list.

Oh well... I can dream.

Teslabe... you going to WF? If so, love to see your work in person.


----------



## teslabe

starmanmm said:


> Teslabe... you going to WF? If so, love to see your work in person.


No I won't be at Wonder Fest, little too far for me, I go back to Niagara Falls two times a year to see my Mom and that takes all my vacation time. I've never displayed any of my builds publicly, just don't think their all that great........


----------



## Richard Baker

teslabe said:


> I've never displayed any of my builds publicly, just don't think their all that great........


Now that is absurd- you have a talent of taking a model to the next level easily. The innovations of lighting, blending in the LED hardware into the existing structures- that is art. I have seen many buildups with proud owners of high skill, your works are at very least their equal. And then the lighting is turned on and it leaves the others behind.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Kent,
the motor runs like a champ!

I did decide to run the channel to the front, and like I thought, it's mostly hidden in the blind spot. A little cosmetics to cover the motor and ...Bazinga!

still have more detail painting to do to the new addition,but you can see where it's going. some gaps to seal as well and I may yet sand some more off of the bottom to shorten it some more. Hard to tell just how far it hangs down until you have the hull in place

many thanks again and I hope what i sent you is at least half as helpful :wave:


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Now that is absurd- you have a talent of taking a model to the next level easily. The innovations of lighting, blending in the LED hardware into the existing structures- that is art. I have seen many buildups with proud owners of high skill, your works are at very least their equal. And then the lighting is turned on and it leaves the others behind.


Richard, your comments are above and beyond anything I could respond to and I thank you very much...... I'm happy that someone might like to copy the mods that I do to Moebius's very well engineered kits......:thumbsup: That is what drives the work I do.......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Kent,
> the motor runs like a champ!
> 
> I did decide to run the channel to the front, and like I thought, it's mostly hidden in the blind spot. A little cosmetics to cover the motor and ...Bazinga!
> 
> still have more detail painting to do to the new addition,but you can see where it's going. some gaps to seal as well and I may yet sand some more off of the bottom to shorten it some more. Hard to tell just how far it hangs down until you have the hull in place
> 
> many thanks again and I hope what i sent you is at least half as helpful :wave:


Lou, That is just sick......:thumbsup: I think you did it Justice and I hope my over-wrap works is well as your's........:wave:


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Here's my final rationalization for running the wiring to the front.

that's where the flight consol is and that's where the radar displays are, so it makes sence that the wiring would go from the dishes, to the displays

that's my story and i'm sticking to it


----------



## teslabe

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Here's my final rationalization for running the wiring to the front.
> 
> that's where the flight consol is and that's where the radar displays are, so it makes sence that the wiring would go from the dishes, to the displays
> 
> that's my story and i'm sticking to it


Did you forget the pictures????


----------



## teslabe

Got some more work done this weekend. Skinnyonce asked a question in a Email about a simple lighting circuit for just blinky lights, here is as simple as it gets, I posted a short video in "My Photos" folder. Got the wall beams done and can now fill them with some nice Tamiya Basic Gray putty..... Hope to get some painting done this week......:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Sorry, it might help if I posted the schematic......:freak:


----------



## starseeker

Testlabe, as always, brilliant! I've been trying to catch up on the last couple weeks of posts and I'm amazed at what you've been doing. All I've done in the last two weeks is clean up my model room. I did discover a Badger 200 and an Iwata HP BC that I never knew I had, so that should give you some idea what a mess that model room was. 
Back to plastic, at last.
Is it possible to slow the speed of your blinky lights? If they changed every 8 or 10 seconds, they would be perfect for the Chariot.
Is it possible to add a 4th light to your 3 light Mustang signal? If so, that would be perfect for the lights under the freezing tubes. 
Because of the limited space in both of those areas (for me, at least) I'll have to do solid state there. 
But for the most part, I'm going to try to go much lower tech. All the computers in the Jupiter 2 and Time Tunnel, etc, had their guts stripped out and the lights were driven by motorized rotary switches. The fastest (the [Burroughs?] desk in the Jupiter 2's engine room, blinked about once per second. But most blinked at varying rates, some lights every 5 or 10 seconds, some every 15 or 20 seconds, some even longer. I'm thinking of using small motors (for the fast FS reactor light) or small quartz clock mechanisms with 1 rpm hands to drive disks with various patterns of opaque and clear. A steady light source would be on one side of the disk. Randomly gathered bundles of the ends of fibre optic strands would be on the other side of the disks. Divide the disk into 60 parts and each 60th account for one second. A STTMP saucer-like aztek pattern of clear and opaque, but with some bands 90, 180, even 240 degrees around the disk, would give the ends of the fibres a seemingly random pattern of flashing and also a seemingly random pattern of on/off times, working pretty much identically as the rotary switches. 

Lou, I was wondering, if you don't want the motor to drop down from the ceiling, is there room between the ceiling and the roof to run a simple pulley or belt drive to a motor placed behind a wall? 
Nice Jupiter 2! I love the figure in the freezing tube. Have you been posting pictures of your build up anywhere? Love to see more.


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Starseeker,
It's an interesting idea, but I think I'd have better luck camoflauging the motor assembly than I would a belt and pulleys. (I'm just not that good)

maybe if I had built a set of those beams to extend the rib walls (somebody needs to come up with a kit for those!) then there may have been room , but as it stands, the upper hull "ceiling" is visible


----------



## WmTodd

These pics and ideas are as always, awesome and inspiring. 

One little idea here, as I am examining my dry-fit (waiting for magnets and fiber optics to arrive) is with the astrogator. I think I'm going to snip off the rod that is supporting the miniature J2, it just seems too fat. I'll skewer a straight pin or needle into its place, after cutting that down to the height of the plastic part I'm snipping off.

I like seeing everyone's solution to the ceiling beams. I was a little intimidated into even thinking about it, after seeing the Japanese guy's approach. These last ones, here and in the "my J2 has landed" thread seem to be a little more approachable. For the ridge of the wall/ceiling rib/beam combination, running a long 2mm slice of reflective tape (or at least a thin strip of plastic) would unify the thing visually. I'd need to see the hub where the beams converge, to get a better idea of what to do there.... Well, back to the few pics available of that.....

One thing I want to think more about is running white EL tape along those ridges..... 

http://cgi.ebay.com/4x5-glow-wire-c...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5883f1f110

I've bought from the guy before, he's answered the couple of questions I've had honestly and helpfully.... my only thing with EL is that it emits a very faint, but audible high-pitched hum. Imagine a tiny mosquito hovering by your ear, and that's what EL lights do. I'm still curious to see how this could look, how easy/pliable/bendable the stuff is....


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> Testlabe, as always, brilliant! I've been trying to catch up on the last couple weeks of posts and I'm amazed at what you've been doing. All I've done in the last two weeks is clean up my model room. I did discover a Badger 200 and an Iwata HP BC that I never knew I had, so that should give you some idea what a mess that model room was.
> Back to plastic, at last.
> Is it possible to slow the speed of your blinky lights? If they changed every 8 or 10 seconds, they would be perfect for the Chariot.
> Is it possible to add a 4th light to your 3 light Mustang signal? If so, that would be perfect for the lights under the freezing tubes.
> Because of the limited space in both of those areas (for me, at least) I'll have to do solid state there.
> But for the most part, I'm going to try to go much lower tech. All the computers in the Jupiter 2 and Time Tunnel, etc, had their guts stripped out and the lights were driven by motorized rotary switches. The fastest (the [Burroughs?] desk in the Jupiter 2's engine room, blinked about once per second. But most blinked at varying rates, some lights every 5 or 10 seconds, some every 15 or 20 seconds, some even longer. I'm thinking of using small motors (for the fast FS reactor light) or small quartz clock mechanisms with 1 rpm hands to drive disks with various patterns of opaque and clear. A steady light source would be on one side of the disk. Randomly gathered bundles of the ends of fibre optic strands would be on the other side of the disks. Divide the disk into 60 parts and each 60th account for one second. A STTMP saucer-like aztek pattern of clear and opaque, but with some bands 90, 180, even 240 degrees around the disk, would give the ends of the fibres a seemingly random pattern of flashing and also a seemingly random pattern of on/off times, working pretty much identically as the rotary switches.
> 
> Lou, I was wondering, if you don't want the motor to drop down from the ceiling, is there room between the ceiling and the roof to run a simple pulley or belt drive to a motor placed behind a wall?
> Nice Jupiter 2! I love the figure in the freezing tube. Have you been posting pictures of your build up anywhere? Love to see more.


Thank you very much starseeker...... The blinky light circuit can be slowed way down by replacing the 2.2uF cap with a 100uF or larger til it's as slow as you like. As for the Mustang lighting circuit, just add another resistor, SCR and LED to pin 7 (output 3) and move Q2 (2N2222A) to pin 10 (output 4), then tie pin 1 (output 5) to pin 15 (reset), that should do it. Now remember that the outputs start with Q0, so Q4 is really the fifth output on the 4017. As for the motor, it's very small and if "camouflaged" in something no bigger then the motor, it doesn't come down that far. Here is a early picture of it in place, I need to add the ring for the wall beams. I think what Lou did was a very good solution for hiding the motor.


----------



## teslabe

WmTodd said:


> These pics and ideas are as always, awesome and inspiring.
> 
> One little idea here, as I am examining my dry-fit (waiting for magnets and fiber optics to arrive) is with the astrogator. I think I'm going to snip off the rod that is supporting the miniature J2, it just seems too fat. I'll skewer a straight pin or needle into its place, after cutting that down to the height of the plastic part I'm snipping off.
> 
> I like seeing everyone's solution to the ceiling beams. I was a little intimidated into even thinking about it, after seeing the Japanese guy's approach. These last ones, here and in the "my J2 has landed" thread seem to be a little more approachable. For the ridge of the wall/ceiling rib/beam combination, running a long 2mm slice of reflective tape (or at least a thin strip of plastic) would unify the thing visually. I'd need to see the hub where the beams converge, to get a better idea of what to do there.... Well, back to the few pics available of that.....
> 
> One thing I want to think more about is running white EL tape along those ridges.....
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/4x5-glow-wire-c...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5883f1f110
> 
> I've bought from the guy before, he's answered the couple of questions I've had honestly and helpfully.... my only thing with EL is that it emits a very faint, but audible high-pitched hum. Imagine a tiny mosquito hovering by your ear, and that's what EL lights do. I'm still curious to see how this could look, how easy/pliable/bendable the stuff is....


I think the gentleman from Japan was forced to do what he did because of the size LEDs he chose to use, the ones I'm using are very small so I could leave the walls as is. He did a fantastic job, just way too much work for my tastes......:freak:


----------



## starseeker

Thanks, Testlabe! That will be great! I just realized that the 20 lights on either side of the FS windows flash in four sequential groups of 5, so that circuit is perfect there, too. 
Looking at the photos of the motor unit above the astrogator, it suddenly makes perfect sense to me. I'm so locked into 1st season Jupiter 2 that I hadn't considered that if the astrogator doesn't rise up into the dome, then of course there could be/should be something to take up that space. Rather than trying to minimize it, one could even try to accent it, make it an integral part of the ceiling. 
What beautiful work, all!
I guess I better stock up on the Polysporin For Burns. Time to start soldering...


----------



## Richard Baker

One quick question about the astrogator risiing up into the dome- was it ever shown to do that or is it just logical for it to do so with the size and positions of the two units? I have seen the PL kits made so it could rise up (using a telescoping tube), but I am just wondering if they ever had it do it in an episode.
.

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> One quick question about the astrogator risiing up into the dome- was it ever shown to do that or is it just logical for it to do so with the size and positions of the two units? I have seen the PL kits made so it could rise up (using a telescoping tube), but I am just wondering if they ever had it do it in an episode.
> .
> 
> .


Yes it was, in both the unaired pilot and The Reluctant Stowaway. This is it coming back down.....


----------



## g_xii

teslabe said:


> Yes it was, in both the unaired pilot and The Reluctant Stowaway. This is it coming back down.....


And in the episode with the giant! Either the unaired pilot or the giants. I remember seeing it from outside the ship -- all you can see is a pole going up into the dome.


----------



## Richard Baker

Thanks! I have the Reluctant Stowaway PVR'd - I will look for that scene today.
It seemed logical for the shapres to do that, I wonder where the upper dome radar (?) dishes went when the Astrogator popped up for a look see?.

.


----------



## teslabe

Richard Baker said:


> Thanks! I have the Reluctant Stowaway PVR'd - I will look for that scene today.
> It seemed logical for the shapres to do that, I wonder where the upper dome radar (?) dishes went when the Astrogator popped up for a look see?.
> 
> .


I don't think they bothered with that kind of detail back then. In the FX shot of the hero, it was just two angeled pieces spinning in the top dome, no real detail shown and in the early shots of the crashed J-2 the astrogator was shown up in the dome. Moebius was the first to give it the two dish depiction, unless I missed something.....


----------



## rkoenn

I just started mine last weekend. Just started gluing the landing gear and some of the walls. Done some filling on the struts and started painting. I don't plan to light mine and basically keep any changes/mods to a minimum. I was wondering though who has bought the Paragrafix decals/photo etch set and if so are they worth it? I did notice the decals included with the kit are minimal. I was also curious if most folks are painting the landing struts prior to gluing them in? I decided that seemed the best as getting paint everywhere you needed it after assembly appears difficult/impossible.


----------



## mmmmp

>I was wondering though who has bought the Paragrafix decals/photo etch >set and if so are they worth it? I did notice the decals included with the kit >are minimal.<

Can't help you with the J2decals, but the Space Pod decals from Parafix were quite good. Look into the photo-etch / decal combo. I didn't use either on this build, however I'm going to for my in-flight version. This stuff gets a little pricey, but they save so much time and can look fantastic.

>I was also curious if most folks are painting the landing struts prior to gluing >them in? I decided that seemed the best as getting paint everywhere you >needed it after assembly appears difficult/impossible.<

I assume you're talking about the legs / struts together. Yes, try to pre-paint as many sub assemblies as possible. If you make an error or wish to adjust a color, it will be much easier to work with. Also, you may want to leave the flat panels behind the stairs until the very end. I usually dry fit as much as I can before I do a final 'glue-job'....it allows me to make changes if needed.

Although I don't build a lot of models anymore, this is, maybe, the most enjoyable project I've ever worked on. 


Good luck.
Mark


----------



## WmTodd

The Paragrafix photo-etch set is great. It's my first Photo-etch set ever, and I've only started to experiment with handling it, threading a fiber optic through it...prepping the plastic piece it matches up with (the airlock control panel). The decals look great, though I am nowhere near even thinking about applying them. They aren't as comprehensive as the TSDS decals, though, so with both of those sets you have some great choices and options. 

A question that keeps rolling thru my head is if photo-etches can be done with aluminum, but then I guess all you need to really do is paint the photoetch parts as you see fit. I love the idea of exposed metal parts in the model, though.


----------



## Gemini1999

Richard Baker said:


> Thanks! I have the Reluctant Stowaway PVR'd - I will look for that scene today.
> It seemed logical for the shapres to do that, I wonder where the upper dome radar (?) dishes went when the Astrogator popped up for a look see?.


You guys might want to remember that a lot of footage was used from the original Lost in Space pilot and was interspersed during the first 5 episodes. Any footage showing the astrogator ascending into the dome and back was from the pilot and not from the series. There were no consideration taken for the discrepancies between the pilot footage and the series footage.

Although, the times that the J2 was stranded on a planet and the entire astrogator mechanism mysteriously disappeared completely always left me wondering what they did with it and where they would put it. You can't carry that thing down the glide tube....

Bryan


----------



## skinnyonce

WmTodd said:


> A question that keeps rolling thru my head is if photo-etches can be done with aluminum, but then I guess all you need to really do is paint the photoetch parts as you see fit. I love the idea of exposed metal parts in the model, though.


 Good point WmTodd,,
aluminum etch would eliminate the need to paint the panel silver or/aluminum, I think it can be done just not sure if or why it has'nt,,
I need to talk to paulbo thur, I'l ask him.........


----------



## rkoenn

skinnyonce said:


> Good point WmTodd,,
> aluminum etch would eliminate the need to paint the panel silver or/aluminum, I think it can be done just not sure if or why it has'nt,,
> I need to talk to paulbo thur, I'l ask him.........


I think most photo etching is done with ferric chloride. Brass is ideal to use as the metal when using this chemical. Aluminum is not nearly so and is easily completely destroyed in this chemical. It appears there are other chemicals and methods for performing photo etching and that aluminum can be used but possibly for large scale projects such as the pros do they use brass because it works well, quickly, and easily with brass and ferric chloride.


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Good point WmTodd,,
> aluminum etch would eliminate the need to paint the panel silver or/aluminum, I think it can be done just not sure if or why it has'nt,,
> I need to talk to paulbo thur, I'l ask him.........


IMHO, I like the fact that it's brass, I can solder to it and that makes working with it much easier. Although aluminum would reduce the need to paint some of the parts, it would not eliminate painting completely. Here are some very early pictures of my Flight Recorder that will be motorized and it was so much easier dealing with the reels just by soldering brass rods to the back to make axles. I'll post some more pictures when I get home from work, for anyone else who might like to do this.


----------



## skinnyonce

rkoenn said:


> I think most photo etching is done with ferric chloride. Brass is ideal to use as the metal when using this chemical. Aluminum is not nearly so and is easily completely destroyed in this chemical. It appears there are other chemicals and methods for performing photo etching and that aluminum can be used but possibly for large scale projects such as the pros do they use brass because it works well, quickly, and easily with brass and ferric chloride.


Thanks rkoenn,
I think i seen steel ,copper and brass, but not aluminum , now that you mention it


----------



## rkoenn

skinnyonce said:


> Thanks rkoenn,
> I think i seen steel ,copper and brass, but not aluminum , now that you mention it


I have to ask, you are in NW Ohio? Where if I may ask? I was born in Defiance and lived in Edgerton until I was just shy of 5 when we moved to Florida, a long time ago.


----------



## skinnyonce

rkoenn said:


> I have to ask, you are in NW Ohio? Where if I may ask? I was born in Defiance and lived in Edgerton until I was just shy of 5 when we moved to Florida, a long time ago.


 Findlay Oh,


----------



## skinnyonce

teslabe said:


> IMHO, I like the fact that it's brass, I can solder to it and that makes working with it much easier. Although aluminum would reduce the need to paint some of the part, it would not eliminate painting completely. Here are some very early pictures of my Flight Recorder that will be motorized and it was so much easier dealing with the reels just by soldering brass rods to the back to make axles. I'll post some more pictures when I get home from work, for anyone else who might like to do this.


Holy crap Teslabe !
just when I thought you did something spetacular, you go and post something amazing as well, you and beatlepaul, j2man, lou, the guy from japan, ductape and anybody else i forgot to mention, have raised the bar so high, we newbies are gonna have a fit trying to duplicate any of it,
if it dont kill us it makes us stronger/better they say..

skinny.......


----------



## mmmmp

Teslabe....I'm not worthy! I cannot wait to see that thing completed. Although I'm doing plenty of mods, your work is...well, true inspiration. 

BTW - I'm going to do the ceiling beam extensions and maybe some simplistic lighting. Your thumbnails are great, but do you have any construction tips you could pass along? The more I think about it, I'm sure I can do the plastic work...but yours look so good, I'd be so grateful if you could tell me how you went about it. Maybe, just what to avoid would be easier. 

In any case, beautiful stuff my friend.

Mark


----------



## Lou Dalmaso

Gil (Just an Illusion) has an etch set for the Chariot that is either steel or aluminum and I have to tell you that ithey are the bomb!

the dash and the grills and the mesh "bottom" of the luggage rack are friggin' be-yoo-tiful and all you need to do is put a light wash of black over them and they're done.

check em out!


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Holy crap Teslabe !
> just when I thought you did something spetacular, you go and post something amazing as well, you and beatlepaul, j2man, lou, the guy from japan, ductape and anybody else i forgot to mention, have raised the bar so high, we newbies are gonna have a fit trying to duplicate any of it,
> if it dont kill us it makes us stronger/better they say..
> 
> skinny.......


Wow skinny, thank you very much and I'm honored to be included in such a fine group of builders..... I can't take all the credit, if Moebius hadn't designed such a nice kit, I wouldn't be able to do half of what I'd like to do to this kit...... I take a lot of pictures so feel free to email me and I'd be happy to help......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> Teslabe....I'm not worthy! I cannot wait to see that thing completed. Although I'm doing plenty of mods, your work is...well, true inspiration.
> 
> BTW - I'm going to do the ceiling beam extensions and maybe some simplistic lighting. Your thumbnails are great, but do you have any construction tips you could pass along? The more I think about it, I'm sure I can do the plastic work...but yours look so good, I'd be so grateful if you could tell me how you went about it. Maybe, just what to avoid would be easier.
> 
> In any case, beautiful stuff my friend.
> 
> Mark


Thank you very much Mark, I'm very happy if I inspired anyone to go nuts on this kit, it deserves it..... Now have fun building and post pictures......:thumbsup:


----------



## Paulbo

That's sharp, Kent! Is that a little ball-bearing set in the third picture? It's so cute!


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> That's sharp, Kent! Is that a little ball-bearing set in the third picture? It's so cute!


Thank you Paul, yes, there are four small bearing to support the reel's shafts. I hope to post a short video of it in motion by Friday.....


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> BTW - I'm going to do the ceiling beam extensions and maybe some simplistic lighting. Your thumbnails are great, but do you have any construction tips you could pass along? The more I think about it, I'm sure I can do the plastic work...but yours look so good, I'd be so grateful if you could tell me how you went about it. Maybe, just what to avoid would be easier.
> 
> In any case, beautiful stuff my friend.
> 
> Mark


Mark, I'm sorry I forgot to tell you to send me a PM and I'll give you my email address so I can send the pictures of the wall beams going together.


----------



## mmmmp

>Now have fun building and post pictures......<

Will do. I just did a 2nd dry-fit and things are looking good. I still have a couple of problem spots I wish to correct over the next day or so - as well as changing a few LEDS. But, I'm getting close....what a fun gig.

Mark


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> >Now have fun building and post pictures......<
> 
> Will do. I just did a 2nd dry-fit and things are looking good. I still have a couple of problem spots I wish to correct over the next day or so - as well as changing a few LEDS. But, I'm getting close....what a fun gig.
> 
> Mark


Mark,
You got mail.....:wave:


----------



## mmmmp

Thanks again Teslabe. Great help indeed.

Mark


----------



## teslabe

Here is my Flight Recorder animated before I got it painted. look in "My Photos", for the video.


----------



## teslabe

Hi Tim, let me know if you can't find the info you need on the small Stepper motors I'm using. Also sorry for the poor video of my Flight Recorder. The brass reels discolor when you solder to them from the heat so it looks like the reels are wobbly, they are not. I think I'll post a new video after I paint the recorder. Look at post #184.


----------



## Paulbo

teslabe said:


> Turn down the sound when you view the video, not sure what happend during transcoding.......


Ah, thanks for clearing that up. I thought it was the stepper motors being amazingly loud. :wave:


----------



## teslabe

Just reposted the flight recorder video with the sound fixed.


----------



## WmTodd

How about something like THIS to display your J2? 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electromagnetic-Floater/

Of course making one big enough and poweful enough, it'll probably wipe out every cellphone and hard drive in the house, but that's just a minor inconvenience......


----------



## kdaracal

I love watching you guys go ape-crazy with the mods! It's going to be an interesting next year when these build come to fruition. I'm gigged up out of my mind! 

:woohoo:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

teslabe said:


> Mark, I'm sorry I forgot to tell you to send me a PM and I'll give you my email address so I can send the pictures of the wall beams going together.


Hi teslabe
Not wanting to bother you and already doing : would you mind sending me these pictures too?


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi teslabe
> Not wanting to bother you and already doing : would you mind sending me these pictures too?


Hi Fernando,
Send me a PM, I'll give you my email address. I'd be happy to send the pictures....:wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks a lot. You have a PM. :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

My 9-5 has not been "9-5", in the last month I've only got a few things started.
Here are some pictures of the preping for the motors for the radar screens and the B-205's for FO, all 148 fibers.......:drunk: I made boxes for both the motors and the B-205 to handle the girth of all that fiber, I will cut them in half to fit.
I'm only posting a few pics of both mods, but I have many if anyone would like to do this to theirs......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Here is something a little OT. At Christmas I found that Hallmark had done a "Twilight Zone", ornament and I thought it would make a cool prop for my build, a retro tv playing LIS episodes. So I ripped it apart and added a MP4 player so it could run the videos. This is my first of four that I plan to modify and I'm pissed that the display moved when the epoxy cured, the white at the bottom will not be seen in the other three units.......:freak: It would be in front of the ship playing LIS videos, very retro.......


----------



## teslabe

Sorry, I missed this, here the micro SD card for the videos.


----------



## skinnyonce

teslabe said:


> My 9-5 has not been "9-5", in the last month I've only got a few things started.
> Here are some pictures of the preping for the motors for the radar screens and the B-205's for FO, all 148 fibers.......:drunk: I made boxes for both the motors and the B-205 to handle the girth of all that fiber, I will cut them in half to fit.
> I'm only posting a few pics of both mods, but I have many if anyone would like to do this to theirs......:wave:


Teslabe... YOUR ability to make all things electronic is sickening,, I wish I had the know how, Very fine workmanship indeed.. AND YES I would love any and all those pics you have been taking for your kit,, YOU should just put them all on a disc and sell them for a fee (reasonable of course) AGAIN excellant work......


----------



## teslabe

skinnyonce said:


> Teslabe... YOUR ability to make all things electronic is sickening,, I wish I had the know how, Very fine workmanship indeed.. AND YES I would love any and all those pics you have been taking for your kit,, YOU should just put them all on a disc and sell them for a fee (reasonable of course) AGAIN excellant work......


Thank you so very much skinnyonce........ I got this "know How", by building models as a kid..... And had to put up with many kids thinking I was wasting my 
time. Well, I now make a good sum doing what I love......:thumbsup: So I say, 
enjoy the hobby and post your work.......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Hi All, I'm looking for a good epoxy that will flow around all the fiber in my B-205's as it cures. I'm looking at a Mil-Grade two part epoxy, (A1177-B), that when warmed becomes watery til it hardens, but I worry about warping the B-205's. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## mmmmp

*Re: Another pic....*

Here's another pic of my J2 - Slow but sure. (Nothing finalized yet...)

Mark


----------



## Paulbo

First off, the J2's looking fantastic with the mods and I love the TV. (Don't forget to add snow and ghosting to the videos to make it more like what I remember TV being like in the 60s  )



teslabe said:


> Hi All, I'm looking for a good epoxy that will flow around all the fiber in my B-205's as it cures. I'm looking at a Mil-Grade two part epoxy, (A1177-B), that when warmed becomes watery til it hardens, but I worry about warping the B-205's. Anyone have any ideas?


What about normal, everyday casting resin? It's not much thicker than water, dries opaque to help eliminate "crosstalk" between the fibers, for the amount you'll need it's cheap as chips, and it shouldn't get hot enough to damage the fibers.


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> First off, the J2's looking fantastic with the mods and I love the TV. (Don't forget to add snow and ghosting to the videos to make it more like what I remember TV being like in the 60s  )
> 
> 
> 
> What about normal, everyday casting resin? It's not much thicker than water, dries opaque to help eliminate "crosstalk" between the fibers, for the amount you'll need it's cheap as chips, and it shouldn't get hot enough to damage the fibers.


Thank you Paul, I like the idea of snow and ghosting in the video, that would be funny..... Is casting resin strong enough to support the fiber's
tension as it makes it's bend? Most casting resin, like what Drew's figures are made from, seems a bit soft. Did you have something in mind? Thank you for the help.....:wave:


----------



## Y3a

How about using plaster of paris?


----------



## Paulbo

I can't imagine that the fibers would have all that much tension, but you do have a boatload of the little suckers. 

There are several people on the boards in your area that have resin on their benches and I'm sure at least one of them would let you use some for a test. There are also several different hardnesses of resin if you find that the early test isn't good enough.


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> There are also several different hardnesses of resin if you find that the early test isn't good enough.


Well, there is 138 .25mm and 9 .50mm fibers and they will be making a tight right angle, so there will be a bit of tension. I think I'll take a look at my LHS for some casting resins and see the types they carry, thank for the idea.....:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Y3a said:


> How about using plaster of paris?


That might work if the area in the B-205 was a little deeper but it's not. 
The bed would be too thin for plaster, I think it would just brake up. I like the idea of a harder casting resin, just never used it before, so I will be on a fact finding trip to my LHS and see what they carry. But thank you for the input.....:wave:


----------



## Paulbo

If you've used epoxy, you'll be fine and dandy with resin. Just mix it and pour it. Luckily you don't have to worry about bubbles and stuff.

My LHS doesn't carry resin since it has a shelf life, but I've got my fingers crossed for you.


----------



## teslabe

Paulbo said:


> If you've used epoxy, you'll be fine and dandy with resin. Just mix it and pour it. Luckily you don't have to worry about bubbles and stuff.
> 
> My LHS doesn't carry resin since it has a shelf life, but I've got my fingers crossed for you.


http://store.creative-wholesale.com...Default.aspx?SortField=Free3+DESC,ProductName

I think I may try this, has anyone used it before and is water thin when mixed?


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> Here's another pic of my J2 - Slow but sure. (Nothing finalized yet...)
> 
> Mark


Very nice work.....:thumbsup: I'm with you, slow and sure all the way..... Mark, how did your wall beams turn out?


----------



## Model Man

Tesla,
I've been looking in for awhile and this elec work takes your build over the top! 

I found, at 2:39 for season3, radar spin. There are no closeups of the wave forms that are sometimes displayed, though there is a closeup of the central yellow moire thing somewhere.


----------



## teslabe

Model Man said:


> Tesla,
> Check at 2:39 for season3 radar spin. There are a few similar closeups of that entire console in the four ref vids.


Hi Tom,
Season three had the screens setup as radar displays in some episodes and than replaced with CRT's in others, so it looks like we have a lot of latitude with what we do here........ I'm sticking with radar screens.......:thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Model Man said:


> Tesla,
> I've been looking in for awhile and this elec work takes your build over the top!


Thank you very much Tom..... It has been a dream of mine to have someone do the J-2 right and Moebius delivered something beyond anything I could have hoped for....... So I need to do it right, I hope I can pull it off.....


----------



## mmmmp

>Very nice work.....:thumbsup: I'm with you, slow and sure all the way..... Mark, how did your wall beams turn out?<

Thanks for the compliment - esp. from you! I don't like posting WIPs, since they don't reflect the finished build, but I thought this was a cool shot - inspite of all the missing pieces. (I'm moving at the end of the month, so I'm unable to finish yet....) I have some really slick chaser leds and slow flashers, but can't really display them as a proper video yet. Bear with me. Besides, I await seeing your finished model - perhaps more than mine.

The wall beams are for my next J2. I did a single mock-up of one and it's not quite as difficult as I thought it might be, however it's still a challenge. My next build will have fibre, photo etch and a bunch of details I simply couldn't include on this build as I was really inspired to get started from you guys.

To those who don't know, Tesla kindy supplied me with an almost step by step guide on how to contruct the extended wall beams with great pix. What a nice guy huh? 

Best regards, 
Mark


----------



## teslabe

Thanks for the compliment - esp. from you! I don't like posting WIPs, since they don't reflect the finished build, but I thought this was a cool shot - inspite of all the missing pieces. (I'm moving at the end of the month, so I'm unable to finish yet....) I have some really slick chaser leds and slow flashers, but can't really display them as a proper video yet. Bear with me. Besides, I await seeing your finished model - perhaps more than mine.

The wall beams are for my next J2. I did a single mock-up of one and it's not quite as difficult as I thought it might be, however it's still a challenge. My next build will have fibre, photo etch and a bunch of details I simply couldn't include on this build as I was really inspired to get started from you guys.

To those who don't know, Tesla kindy supplied me with an almost step by step guide on how to contruct the extended wall beams with great pix. What a nice guy huh? 

Best regards, 
Mark[/QUOTE]

Thank you very much Mark for the nice words...... I hope your move goes well. I for one enjoy WIP photos, it's great to see the path others take to build this fine kit.....:thumbsup:


----------



## mmmmp

>I for one enjoy WIP photos, it's great to see the path others take to build this fine kit.....<

Hah...you know what, I never even thought of the idea it might help others! That said, I'll keep sneaking the odd one in here and there as time permits. When I think of how inspired *I've* been by WIPs, indeed it's a great way to show others the do's and don't. Mr. Modelman's videos are truly a superb resource. (Even if I wasn't building a J2, it would be an excellent program.)

See ya, 
Mark


----------



## teslabe

mmmmp said:


> >I for one enjoy WIP photos, it's great to see the path others take to build this fine kit.....<
> 
> Hah...you know what, I never even thought of the idea it might help others! That said, I'll keep sneaking the odd one in here and there as time permits. When I think of how inspired *I've* been by WIPs, indeed it's a great way to show others the do's and don't. Mr. Modelman's videos are truly a superb resource. (Even if I wasn't building a J2, it would be an excellent program.)
> 
> See ya,
> Mark


I too enjoy modelman's videos, you can tell he puts a lot of time into them and are a great way to see how the kit is laid out, plus they are just fun to watch.......


----------



## Model Man

Thanks guys, I appreciate that! 

What really gets me is the truly unique take on all these builds. By concentrating on different aspects, everyone who builds this kit will have something really wonderful on their hands. 

I for one wish I could incorporate a few things each of you is doing. For me, it comes down to time and technique -I've got just enough to get this thing done the way I see it being done, but not a lot to experiment. 

I suppose using all these threads as a resource, the next generation of builds will have the real uber-awesome results.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe

I had to use this old thread to ask you a question, because it could help somebody else with ZERO skills in electronics, like me , to solve a similar problem:

I have been browsing the web, on e-bay and some hobbyshops online, in order to take a look at the various tiny RC motors available, since I intend to use them to give movement to the various "equipment" of the Moebius J2.

However, no matter which motor I will use, I will always have to face a problem: how to build a circuit board to drive those beauties?  I have seen some tutorials in which you have to program those boards with a computer linked to them via usb port!!!  Oh my God! 

I don't know if they are available pre-assembled (I didn't find them online), which would be my best chance to address this issue.

If this option is out off the table, I wonder if you could give me the schematics of your boards, so that I can hire a technician who builds them up for me here in Rio de Janeiro. 

In case you don't have those schematics, never mind and thanks anyway. :wave:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe
> 
> I had to use this old thread to ask you a question, because it could help somebody else with ZERO skills in electronics, like me , to solve a similar problem:
> 
> I have been browsing the web, on e-bay and some hobbyshops online, in order to take a look at the various tiny RC motors available, since I intend to use them to give movement to the various "equipment" of the Moebius J2.
> 
> However, no matter which motor I will use, I will always have to face a problem: how to build a circuit board to drive those beauties?  I have seen some tutorials in which you have to program those boards with a computer linked to them via usb port!!!  Oh my God!
> 
> I don't know if they are available pre-assembled (I didn't find them online), which would be my best chance to address this issue.
> 
> If this option is out off the table, I wonder if you could give me the schematics of your boards, so that I can hire a technician who builds them up for me here in Rio de Janeiro.
> 
> In case you don't have those schematics, never mind and thanks anyway. :wave:


Hi Fernando, for my J2 build's top scanner, flight recorder, astrogator, main control console and any other items that need animation, I use what are known as "stepper motors", because they can spin very slow without the need of a gearbox and are silent, unlike motors with gears.......:thumbsup:
Now I do use motors with transmissions when needed like in my Chariots and
for the radar antenna on my large Seaview. I try to keep most of my electronics simple and only use micro-controllers when there is no easy option like the "computer wall" for my large Seaview's control room. Most of this stuff can be viewed in "My Photos" folder. Send me a PM and we can talk more......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Here's the schematic and the little boards I made for the motors I used.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe.

You have a PM.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe

The micro servo Tower Pro SG90 that you used to spin the seaview radar antenna and the two flight console radars of the J2, is easy to find here in Brazil.

I understand that you don't use it to spin the astrogator and the dome scanner because of the size of the box, but could it be used to spin the vector tapes?


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe
> 
> The micro servo Tower Pro SG90 that you used to spin the seaview radar antenna and the two flight console radars of the J2, is easy to find here in Brazil.
> 
> I understand that you don't use it to spin the astrogator and the dome scanner because of the size of the box, but could it be used to spin the vector tapes?


Hi Fernando,
The servo used for the Seaview's radar antenna is modified so it can spin continuously, basically I'm using it as a very simple, small motor/gear assembly, nothing more. All the motors in my J2 are the same stepper motors. I've done the top scanner and flight recorder as I posted above but only prepped the main control console's displays and not started the astrogator since it such an easy mod.
My J2 is way down on my list of builds, I have so many other thing happening in my life right now......


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hummm... Ok.
I thought the micro servo could also spin the flight recorder and that you didn't use it because of the lack of room between the wall and the external hull.
Thanks :thumbsup:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hummm... Ok.
> I thought the micro servo could also spin the flight recorder and that you didn't use it because of the lack of room between the wall and the external hull.
> Thanks :thumbsup:


No, I didn't have these motors when I was working on my Seaview, if I did I would have used it there as well. The servos are noisy and just a bit larger, plus the steppers are silent. As you can see size counts ..... The last three pictures are of the motorized Astrogator from my PL J2, the mod to the Moebius Astrogator will be the same just a bit larger......:wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Gezz!! The motor of your PLJ2 astrogator must be the smallest ever built. :wave:


----------



## Y3a

So I take it NOBODY has constructed a Moebius Jupiter 2 with the Hero aftermarket legs and footpads that actually retract like the 4 foot hero?


----------



## teslabe

Y3a said:


> So I take it NOBODY has constructed a Moebius Jupiter 2 with the Hero aftermarket legs and footpads that actually retract like the 4 foot hero?


My J2 build is just sitting right now, with soooooo many other projects needing to get done all I've done is some prep work, some I've posted
pictures and videos of. As for retracting landing gears, yes I will be doing 
it to this build if I have the room......:freak: I don't see it as a big challenge
and most likely will use Pauls landing gears......:thumbsup:


----------



## Radiodugger

Y3a said:


> So I take it NOBODY has constructed a Moebius Jupiter 2 with the Hero aftermarket legs and footpads that actually retract like the 4 foot hero?


Oh, I would LOVE to do that! With the sliding foot pad doors? My eyes roll back white. 

Wow, I've got 20 pages to read through! I think I'll save 'em to to read later. I just bought the Moebius J-2, so when it gets here next week, I'm gonna look it over.

I used to have about 30 or 40 photos of Greg Jein's Hero hull. He said it had been stripped of its workings for City Beneath The Sea, so there was no reference. I wish I had those pix today!

I hear he restored it, but I have been out of touch for about a decade. I've seen several casts of that hull since. I imagine all sorts of mods have been done to those...

Myself, I am planning on at least making the gear manually retractable, with sliding foot pad doors. I want to make sure the model will support itself if I do that. There has been discussion about this. I really don't want a motorized system, if it has to be a "string puppet".

Lights are definitely in order. I also want to build Henry's Launch Gantry. That will have working lights as well. Jim Key built an AWESOME Launch Site that I'd like to recreate with the Moebius:

http://uncleodiescollectibles.com/img_lib/01 Jim Key J-2 01 3-7-5.jpg

I believe this was the Lunar Models 16.5 inch Jupiter 2. I don't have much info on this. I found this site with Google. I still have more searching to do.

I think I might invest in the photo etchings that are available. Aftermarket decals, and animating interior greebles may be in the makings as well. I have to go through everything to see what is modifiable. 

Radio Doug


----------



## Radiodugger

OK, I'm back! Y3a, you are mostly correct here:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/showphoto.php/photo/32468/ppuser/4095

The gear were raised and lowered by a crude turntable with the cables attached on three points. Your pad doors are correct for the most part. The whole thing was sprung with the legs extended and pads open. The motor actually closed everything up. 

If I can get in touch with Greg Jein again, I can give you more details. He was pretty much in the dark as well. By the way, one of the Jupiter 2, 4 foot miniatures was NOT modified for City Beneath The Sea. There is a "flat top" version which was used I guess for the Space Pod.

The original 4 foot model was not modified in any way. There were possible five, four foot models used. I have to research this some more. My main sources were Mike Evans, Flint Mitchell and Greg Jein. I'll do some more research...



Doug


----------



## Y3a

The flat topped Jupiter 2 is the Pod Dropper that Greg Jein rescued from the Irwin Allen Offices in the old "Bewitched house".
The Azarian Jupiter 2 used as a starting point for the current crop of 4 foot models was the Hero, with gear n such.
a 14-18" model ws built for the far off shots, and IT started as a Gemini 12 model.
The Gemini 12 exists and has the bigger front window.

TWO 4' models
ONE 14-18" model
ONE "UNUSED IN LIS" 10 ' model.

Thats about it.


----------



## Radiodugger

Thanks Y3a!

I sent you a PM. The Pod Dropper is the hero I had pictures of. It was torn up pretty bad. It had no gear. Jein was very busy at the time, and most of the info I got was from Flint Mitchell, who did the legwork. Man, I see I have some catching up to do! 

Hope you don't mind me Private Messaging you! 

Doug


----------



## Y3a

The best I've been able to figure out the Jupiter landing gear after watching ALL the SPFX clips I could. I tweaked them in Final Cut, and some other video apps. I sped them back up to the speed they were taken to see how fast the mechanics actually worked at the set. Remember, they took most of the 4 footers SPFX clips at 96 to 116 frames per second, and played them back at the normal 25 frames per second. The Pyrotechnic shots where there is fire, explosions, etc were done at 180 FPS!!! That means it was a little over 7 times SLOWER when you saw it on TV. Just think of the precision work the guys manipulating the 4 foot Jupiter 2 on a 50 foot boom did to get the model right over the mushroom/fireball charge just as the fire rose up to hit the model, and that the guys rocked the model side to side just right, and luckily, the Fusion core motor and lights kept spinning.









Anyway... As I understand, a 'control box' was mentioned 2 times, but was to control up and down of the gear. The support wires were electrified and supposedly there was ground, hot 1 and hot 2. It was probably for up and down. The sequence starts with the pad doors being pulled by wire from the back-center of them. The door is on a bracket connected from a button type thing and it is through a slotted piece, that is hinged to a sliding part that is on a 10-15 degree slant rising away from the pad door. The wire first pulls the door out of it's slot, and because the angle is such, the door stays up as the wire pulls the door out of the way of the gear and footpad. There is a stop to keep the door just out of the way as it slides up the ramp. This must trigger the main gear to be lowered. I believe the pulley system put the torque on the down part of the motion , instead for pulling the gear back up, because I have seen 2 SPFX clips in which the model was sitting on its fusion core, and the gear was lowered, and the gear picked the model up. I also believe the boom system used to support the model was carefully counter-weighted so it may have only had to lift a few ounces of its weight. The model, when set on its gear would pull the tension tight, and give the appearance of settling down due to the ships weight. 



For take-off, the model would be lifted and at about 3 feet up, the gear would retract. The legs would return slowly as the springs pulling the legs up was still working against the pulley system letting out the cables. As the legs retracted up into the gear wells as far as they could, then the footpad door cables would slowly release the sliding part to slide down and position the footpad door above the slot. finally the cable would be slack enough and the door would drop into the slot, and being flush with the hull. All in all, a very elegant solution.


----------



## Radiodugger

Very elegant! Thank you Y3a! I am amazed at the details I've acquired in this short time! From what I've heard, the hero model could not support itself. I'm trying to find if that is indeed true.

Well, there is a wealth of information here. You seem to have the handle on this, J3a! My Jupiter 2 arrived, and I've gone through everything. I am amazed at the SIZE of the thing! The details that can be modeled at that scale...incredible!

OK, I'll be in touch, guys! 

Doug


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Y3a said:


> I believe the pulley system put the torque on the down part of the motion , instead for pulling the gear back up, because I have seen 2 SPFX clips in which the model was sitting on its fusion core, and the gear was lowered, and the gear picked the model up.


Fantastic! I always thought that the landing gears couldn't support the hero's weight and so, they would have been helped by the wires that kept the hero suspended.

Do you have those videos? 

Thanks Ya3. Great information. :thumbsup:


----------



## Y3a

I took the SPFX clips from the "Lost in Space Forever" DVD. I looked at the clapper info to find camera speed.


----------



## RSN

As I understand it, the 4 foot minature was not supported by the landing gear, rather it was basically a marionette. This is supported by the special effects footage seen on "Lost in Space Forever". The Jupiter 2 can be seen resting on the "ground", it is then lifted up by the overhead wires so it appears to be resting on the legs, then it is pulled up and as it lifts off, the gear is pulled up into the ship by the wires as the pad doors close.


----------



## Y3a

The model may have been counter-weighted so the model could have picked itself up by the gear. We aren't talking about a 40 lbs fiberglass hull and 25 pounds of mechanics, but only a pound or two. 

I have watched ALL of the SPFX clips in LIS Forever, and I know which ones you are referring to. I disagree that it was just a string puppet. The internal pulley system used to pull the legs down suggests the gear could support the model on the boom (which was counter-weighted).


----------



## RSN

Y3a said:


> The model may have been counter-weighted so the model could have picked itself up by the gear. We aren't talking about a 40 lbs fiberglass hull and 25 pounds of mechanics, but only a pound or two.
> 
> I have watched ALL of the SPFX clips in LIS Forever, and I know which ones you are referring to. I disagree that it was just a string puppet. The internal pulley system used to pull the legs down suggests the gear could support the model on the boom (which was counter-weighted).


OK, you can have your opinion. Mine is based on people, Jim Key for one, who have delt with the original miniature and told me that it was indeed held up by overhead wires, not the legs themselves. :thumbsup:


----------



## Y3a

Since the original mechanics were removed while still in Fox custody and none of the original crew is still alive, how does anyone know for sure?


----------



## RSN

Y3a said:


> Since the original mechanics were removed while still in Fox custody and none of the original crew is still alive, how does anyone know for sure?


My point exactly, but the visual evidence, i.e. the raw FX footage, clearly shows a model, that was not supported by the gear, being raised into place from above and then filmed taking off. Everyone is free to draw their own conclusions, not just base what they think on a couple of "experts" on the subject. The world will continue to orbit the sun no matter what! :thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

This Never Ends:freak:


----------



## RSN

beatlepaul said:


> This Never Ends:freak:


Nope, but it make life more interesting! :thumbsup:


----------



## Richard Baker

Still more interesting than the 'Falcon Mandible Toe-in' or the 'TOS-E Gridline' debates...


----------



## Seaview

RSN said:


> Nope, but it make life more interesting! :thumbsup:


Agreed. I've never really given any of this any real thought, but now that I do, I realize that those three round sliding access panels on the roof of the Jupiter 2 closely correspond to where the landing gear struts are along the lower hull interior.
And if you gentlemen have already discussed this earlier in this thread, forgive me for being a late-comer to the conversation and not having read previous 31 pages of this thread.


----------



## RSN

Seaview said:


> Agreed. I've never really given any of this any real thought, but now that I do, I realize that those three round sliding access panels on the roof of the Jupiter 2 closely correspond to where the landing gear struts are along the lower hull interior.
> And if you gentlemen have already discussed this earlier in this thread, forgive me for being a late-comer to the conversation and not having read previous 31 pages of this thread.


From what I have been told by those who studied the original 4 footer in person, those hatches in those placements, were there for just that reason. Take it for what it is worth.

Now....should the Jupiter 2 have gridlines? If so, how deep and how wide?!!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

Richard Baker said:


> Still more interesting than the 'Falcon Mandible Toe-in' or the 'TOS-E Gridline' debates...


 
I guess it's a matter of personel perspective..

The Millennium Falcon "Toe-In" and the "Tos Enterprise Grid".......... nonsense.

The fact of the matter is, the craftsmen who created the Jupiter 2 Landing gear effects are no longer with us..And Jim Key, who actually worked on the 4'Hero. But unlike Craftsmen like *************, Key will never share any of his hands on info, It is, of course,His Right. 
They are the only real credible source of info(IMHO).

How you, the individual, comes up with his or her solution is your own Idea on how it should work:thumbsup:
The only other person to ask, would be William Crebber, but As I understand it, He really couldn't be bothered(I could be wrong).:wave:


----------



## RSN

beatlepaul said:


> I guess it's a matter of personel perspective..
> 
> The Millennium Falcon "Toe-In" and the "Tos Enterprise Grid".......... nonsense.
> 
> The fact of the matter is, the craftsmen who created the Jupiter 2 Landing gear effects are no longer with us..And Jim Key, who actually worked on the 4'Hero. But unlike Craftsmen like *************, Key will never share any of his hands on info, It is, of course,His Right.
> They are the only real credible source of info(IMHO).
> 
> How you, the individual, comes up with his or her solution is your own Idea on how it should work:thumbsup:
> The only other person to ask, would be William Crebber, but As I understand it, He really couldn't be bothered(I could be wrong).:wave:


Yes, but my info DID come from Jim Key! Bazinga!!:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Han Solo

RSN said:


> Yes, but my info DID come from Jim Key! Bazinga!!:thumbsup:


 
LOL!!!!!
It must have been a very strange and odd day indeed for that to have happened my friend!...And I am a big fan of Jim Key's work!


----------



## RSN

beatlepaul said:


> LOL!!!!!
> It must have been a very strange and odd day indeed for that to have happened my friend!...And I am a big fan of Jim Key's work!


I had many "strange" days with Jim, as we were partners for a while in the '90's!


----------



## Captain Han Solo

RSN said:


> I had many "strange" days with Jim, as we were partners for a while in the '90's!


 
AWESOME!!

OK...lets start talking about the.....10 FOOTER AGAIN!!:freak::freak::freak::freak::freak:LOL!


----------



## RSN

beatlepaul said:


> AWESOME!!
> 
> OK...lets start talking about the.....10 FOOTER AGAIN!!:freak::freak::freak::freak::freak:LOL!


You mean the 10 foot Jupiter 2 that was filmed, 5 months before it was built...........as the Gemini XII?!!!


----------



## Gemini1999

beatlepaul said:


> AWESOME!!
> 
> OK...lets start talking about the.....10 FOOTER AGAIN!!:freak::freak::freak::freak::freak:LOL!


Let's not and just say we did - just to avoid that mayhem and madness that happens over and over again.


----------



## Radiodugger

beatlepaul said:


> ...The fact of the matter is, the craftsmen who created the Jupiter 2 Landing gear effects are no longer with us..And Jim Key, who actually worked on the 4' Hero. But unlike Craftsmen like *************, Key will never share any of his hands on info, It is, of course,His Right.
> They are the only real credible source of info(IMHO).
> 
> How you, the individual, comes up with his or her solution is your own Idea on how it should work:thumbsup:
> The only other person to ask, would be William Crebber, but As I understand it, He really couldn't be bothered(I could be wrong).:wave:


Yeah, BeatlePaul, the fact they are gone, makes it very difficult to sort fact from trash. 

Two people I have been in contact with, said it's very hard to talk to Jim Key about the Jupiter 2. I don't know what they meant by that, but I just assumed he's busy and doesn't have time. I can respect that. I have a feeling though, he was put off by people being pushy and rude.

I can imagine what poor ol' Greg Jein had to put up with. Maybe that's why he's so difficult to contact today. Well, Flint Mitchell still talks to me anyway, and that says a LOT! The man has been a wealth of information!

Y3a, I have the drawings you put up of the foot pad doors, and I think you hit it on the head with that. Let's keep this going! Be kind to one another! This is fun, remember? _We're family here_, right? :thumbsup:

Doug


----------



## RSN

Here is a link to the restoration of the "Hero Landing Gear" Jupiter 2. The restorer clearly says the gear was operated from above "...like a string puppet...". Again, believe what you want, but I think this guy would know!

http://www.uncleodiescollectibles.com/html_lib/lis-j2/00002.html


----------



## Y3a

Those stills came out of the "Jupiter 2 Autopsy" video. I have some images of it in my photo album.


----------



## Radiodugger

Yeah, Y3a, that was the one where the guy didn't have enough battery power! Imagine that? Figures...

Doug


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hey Teslabe.

I need your help on the stepper motors subject. Although I don't have even 0,01% of your electronic skills, I still intend to motorize my MJ2 in the same way you are doing. 

However, to build my own drive board is something beyond my possibilities. 

As you know, the combo (motor, drive and source) must fit inside the kit and thus the drive board must run the stepper motor automaticaly, with the given settings (basically velocity and direction of the spin). Do you know some pre-assembled board that could do this in the same manner as yours? Do they sell on ebay?

By the way, how is your work with your steppers so far? :wave:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hey Teslabe.
> 
> I need your help on the stepper motors subject. Although I don't have even 0,01% of your electronic skills, I still intend to motorize my MJ2 in the same way you are doing.
> 
> However, to build my own drive board is something beyond my possibilities.
> 
> As you know, the combo (motor, drive and source) must fit inside the kit and thus the drive board must run the stepper motor automaticaly, with the given settings (basically velocity and direction of the spin). Do you know some pre-assembled board that could do this in the same manner as yours? Do they sell on ebay?
> 
> By the way, how is your work with your steppers so far? :wave:


I made my own boards, when I get home from work I'll post some pictures and info. I sent a setup to Lou some time ago. stay tuned my friend......:wave:


----------



## teslabe

Sorry Fernando, with HT's move to the servers, I couldn't get into the site til this morning. Here is the board I did using the schematic that came with the 
motors from Electronic Goldmine. The last picture is a setup I did for Lou Dalmaso in trade for some paint masks. Feel free to PM me if I can help you more......:wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe.

Thanks for the pictures. :thumbsup:

I see, in the second picture, that you cut the black and white wires and joined both. In the first picture this doesn't seem so clear.

If I had your board  and a list of the items needed to assembled it I guess I could do the task.

But the best option would be to buy a drive board. Any suggestion? :wave:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe.
> 
> Thanks for the pictures. :thumbsup:
> 
> I see, in the second picture, that you cut the black and white wires and joined both. In the first picture this doesn't seem so clear.
> 
> If I had your board  and a list of the items needed to assembled it I guess I could do the task.
> 
> But the best option would be to buy a drive board. Any suggestion? :wave:


I cut the black and white wires as short as possible to keep the number of wires small. They need to be tied together for the motor to work with the circuit shown. The parts are shown in the schematic and can be found on line at Jameco or Digi-Key, I'll see if I have any extra boards when I get home tonight, if not, it's an easy circuit to bread-board.


----------



## starseeker

1. Fernando: wonderful to see you here again. Pictures, we want pictures!
2. Teslabe: I don't know if I'm going to animate much in my Jupiter 2s, but your circuits and components are definitely going to be used in my Time Tunnel. For your great generosity in sharing all that you've done, so many thanks! 
You guys just keep me going.
A very Merry Christmas!


----------



## teslabe

starseeker said:


> 1. Fernando: wonderful to see you here again. Pictures, we want pictures!
> 2. Teslabe: I don't know if I'm going to animate much in my Jupiter 2s, but your circuits and components are definitely going to be used in my Time Tunnel. For your great generosity in sharing all that you've done, so many thanks!
> You guys just keep me going.
> A very Merry Christmas!


Thank you very much for the kind words, but I must thank you for posting all those great photos of your scratch built projects, nothing I love more then 
seeing other's WIP, especially when done from scratch.......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Can I offer a suggestion for your Time Tunnel ? Suspend a piece of translucent Vellum across the "electrodes" in the tunnel and use one of these cheap video projectors from the rear to play clips from the show. I would mount it in the base at the rear of the tunnel pointing up and with a small mirror direct it forward to the rear of the Vellum. It's what I plan to do for the J-2's video screen in the communication console. Just a thought....:wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Starseeker

It is my pleasure!

I have been around, here and there, mostly in silent, but even so paying attention to everything, mainly to your recent updates on the time tunnel and the studio-mockup-J2. :thumbsup:

Pictures? Well, I am slower than a tired turtle who smokes marijuana. 

Teslabe

Could I use a stripboard to emulate your circuit board?


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Could I use a stripboard to emulate your circuit board?


http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/8016-1/V2012-ND/416001

I would suggest something like this, it has plated thu-holes, it what I do all my 
proto-types on.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thank you, so much. :thumbsup:

I hope that the trial-and-error build up process works fine.

Let me import the material and we will see. :wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Hi Teslabe

You have a PM.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thank you, so much. :thumbsup:
> 
> I hope that the trial-and-error build up process works fine.
> 
> Let me import the material and we will see. :wave:


I should have posted the backside of the Blinky light board just to show how I lay out my circuits.


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe
> 
> You have a PM.


You ask and I obey, sometimes........ Here's the closeup of the motor driver 
board. The first IC on the left is a 74HC86, the one below is 74HC365, chips are HC (High Speed cmos), the one on the right is a 4013.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thanks budy.

I beg your pardon for my astronomical ignorance , but could you identify the parts numbered on the image? 

Well, I'm not so dumb . At least I know what parts are the resistors. :freak:


----------



## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> Thanks budy.
> 
> I beg your pardon for my astronomical ignorance , but could you identify the parts numbered on the image?
> 
> Well, I'm not so dumb . At least I know what parts are the resistors. :freak:


Hi Fernando,
1) 300K variable resistor
2) 0.1uF @50volt ceramic capacitor
3) 10uf @ 10volt tantalum capacitor and the white line denotes positive.
I hope this helps........:wave:


----------



## Fernando Mureb

Thank you Sir!! :thumbsup:

And thanks again for being so patient and helpful. :wave:


----------



## jimkirk

I have been lurking and learning from this thread and have a question for teslabe.
Can this board be used for more than 1 stepper motor?
If so how many can it run?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Fernando Mureb

And I have one more question about the resistors.

Would them be 10.0k ohm 1/4w resistors (RG3216N-1002-P)?


----------



## teslabe

jimkirk said:


> I have been lurking and learning from this thread and have a question for teslabe.
> Can this board be used for more than 1 stepper motor?
> If so how many can it run?
> Thanks in advance.


http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1182

Sorry for the delay in responding, I was heading back to Niagaras Falls NY yesterday for the holidays. First, this board was designed for a very odd hybrid stepper motor I got from Electronic Goldmine that are no longer available, but if you have one, the circuit can drive two motor at the same time and if you reverse the leads you can have them turn in opposite directions. If you look in "My Photos" I have a video of two motors running off this board. If you are using any other stepper, here is a nice little, and I mean
little, driver you could use. I bought 10 and when I get home will be looking at ways to best control it. Hope this some help. Have a very happy holiday and stay tuned......:wave:


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## teslabe

Fernando Mureb said:


> And I have one more question about the resistors.
> 
> Would them be 10.0k ohm 1/4w resistors (RG3216N-1002-P)?


Hi Fernando, They are 10k 1/10w SMT resistors but you could use 1/4w for your circuit.


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks. :thumbsup:
Right now, I have orders placed at Jameco and other guys from Hong Kong for all the circuit parts. There will be 4 weeks at least until delivery. I think I should spend my time studying electronics. :wave:


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## jimkirk

Have you guys checked out this site for parts?
I bought a lot of sockets and such and they are good quality,cheap and fast shipping. http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/StoreFront


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## Fernando Mureb

Thanks Jimkirk

Great site. I hadn't seen it yet. :thumbsup:


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