# Scratchbuilding Tutorial #1: Tools



## K.L. VanAtta (Mar 23, 2009)

Fellow Racers and Hobbyists,

As a place to begin this first tutorial I wanted to show and describe some of the tools that I have collected over my years of slot car racing. To many, this assortment of tools will look familiar, just go to your race box, but, to some, just beginning in slot car racing and, or beginning in scratchbuilding these tools and how they are used may be something new.

Most of the tools in this discussion are universal, that is, used on any scale slot car. There are specific tools for HO cars and I will identify those as such. Then, there are the odd-ball tools that come from an entirely different discipline that are re-purposed for slot cars; there is a little of everything here. Where I remember I will identify the supplier of the tool, a few of these I have had going on 40 plus years and the memory gets a little foggy, as well as companies go out of business.

This thread will also give me a chance to sort out my photo server and photo dimensions for all the upcoming tutorials. This is where everyone helps, please let me know about the quality of the photos in YOUR browser, so I can make tweaks necessary for this to be an enjoyable adventure. As always, your comments, questions, and critiques are appreciated and welcomed.

Shall we begin.


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## K.L. VanAtta (Mar 23, 2009)

The first photo is of the two blocks I use most for building HO cars.











The one at the top of the photo is a "Lucky Bob's" 1/24th Corian Chassis Jig turned over. When I returned to slot car racing in the mid 2000's there were few quality chassis jigs on the market save for the "Lucky Bob's line. After R-Geo and Backtrack came to the marketplace and I began racing HO again I turned it over and realized what a great flat surface it was for general assembly of HO cars.

The lower lower block is a 1/32nd scale aluminum set up block made and sold by Slot Car Corner, as I remember it was $16.95 plus shipping. The block is STRAIGHT, FLAT, and TRUE, the three things that you want in a block that you will use to layout lines from, straighten chassis' on, adjust ride heights on, pound stubborn body pins in on,....the uses are endless. I have only found one aluminum block that is better, the "Goat Boy" Set-Up block for 1/24th cars made by Ian Tomlinson. If you can find one get it, it is the best.

That's going to get us started, should have a parts list in a day or two...

Be good,

Keith


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

o.k. got my chunk of corrian and now i,ll have to start lookin round the bench to uncover any and all pieces of stock and tools and what not! i,ll be following along but i have my project van that is takin all mt time. but i,m all in and so are alot of other slotdudes i,ll bet


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## K.L. VanAtta (Mar 23, 2009)

Photo #2,










The block at the top of the photo is the R-Geo HO Scratchbuilding Jig produced by Rick Bennardo. You can find him on ebay or Google "R-Geo" and you'll find his website which you can contact him from. Rick does a "batch" of blocks at a time, so if he gets orders for 6 jigs he'll make 12. Check with Rick as to the current price and availability.

My jig is one of the prototypes, the newest production version is more refined. The best points about this block besides being STRAIGHT, FLAT, and TRUE, is the multitude of pin placement holes for jigging chassis parts, the adjustable guide pin holder, and thumb screw hold downs to hold your work in place. It is made of Corian and with all block made with this material I have found a slight wicking of heat away from the site being soldered. Then again, I built most of my chassis' on the old Champion Jig Block of the early 70's; the Cadillac of jig blocks.

The R-Geo Jigs are the best in slot car racing in my opinion. Rick incorporates new ideas from his 1/24th blocks throughout the line and his craftsmanship is unrivaled.

The second "block" is the familiar piece of track. Many uses for this ubiquitous item found in every HO racers house!

Be good,

Keith


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## K.L. VanAtta (Mar 23, 2009)

Photo #3










Now we're getting into some good stuff. Nothing hurts the performance of a slot car more than having been assembled with parts that didn't meet the design measurements or being assembled with disregard of the design parameters. The tools in this photo will not only help in the former situation, but, will help you design and layout any scratchbuilt chassis you may want to build.


Sorry for the extended delay!

As I was saying….

These measurement and layout tools are universal, can be used to design, layout, and build any slot car in any scale. While I will caution against using a plastic edge ( not accurate enough, easily damaged ) to do layout work with, the triangle and protractor are invaluable when sketching ideas for a new chassis. ***A note: I highly recommend the practice of doodling chassis designs before beginning a build. It helps to foresee problems, give you ( me! ) a feel for the work involved, and allows your creativity to come into play.***

All of my measuring and layout work is done with the steel ruler/straight edge, steel square, and calipers. We will get into the “how” of measuring and layout once the chassis build is underway, but, I use the Slot Car Corner Set Up Block’s square flat side in conjunction with the square to draw the first reference line from which all other measurements for that part will be taken.

In scratchbuilding I use the caliper’s top jaws more than the bottom. The reason is that, being pointed, they leave a nice clear mark on the metal when laying out a part. From that point, my knife blade catches nicely and I can move the square into position and scribe the next line. Of course, the thing I didn’t mention was, that when you’re in your middle 50’s like I am you need your glasses, geezer goggles, and a magnifying glass to see the mark!

Finally is the micrometer, my workhorse measuring tool. Outside of interior dimensions, widths, and anything over 1.00 inch I use the micrometer. I use it on magnet wire, piano wire, brass rod, tubing, and sheet, tires, armatures, axles and shafts, everything. Once you have a good one and know how to use it, it will be more accurate than any other tool you own.

I do want to thank all of you for being patient with me. Work and family come first; I spend most of my days ( and some evenings ) in the in-patient pharmacy of one of Seattle’s largest hospitals and I look forward to passing a bit of knowledge about slot cars along. I’m having fun, so it’s good.

If anyone wants to know, Al Thurman, Doug Morris, and I have been friends since we began racing Michigan/Midwest HOPRA together back in the early 70’s ( 1971, I think? ). There were a lot of really good racers then!

Be good,

Keith


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## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

Thank you for taking on this project .

Gonzo


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## K.L. VanAtta (Mar 23, 2009)

Gonzo,

Thanks......klv

Everyone,

Updated my last full post with more text. Will be resizing photos to take advantage of camera's macro function for the chassis build.

Be good,

Keith


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## slotcar58 (Jun 21, 2007)

Great job Keith! I will be putting Part 1 in the October issue of HORCTC.

Leo


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