# My 1st track build,suggestions and or tips wanted.



## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

I am getting ready to start on my first ho track build so I am looking for any tips,advice,suggestions and or resource material from people who have been there and done that.
My idea of what I want,

I have been looking at the 5'x 10' table at http://hoslotcarracing.com/

I would like to have a thunderjet friendly 4'x8' 4 lane in the middle. I'll use Tomy track for this.Already have the 4 way split and international challenge track sets.
Around the 4'x8' thunderjet friendly track I would like to set up a high speed oval using AFX banked turns for the magnet cars.
Will there be enough room on the 5'x10' table for both tracks?
What would be considered a thunderjet friendly lay out?I was looking at the "scenic hills 33" layout at this same site...thunderjet friendly???

My plan is to start with the building of the table.Add the 4'x8' thunderjet track,with power supply and timing system. When this is up and running,then start with the oval.
I would like to be able to use the same power supply and computer for the timimg system for both tracks.I am hoping I can just change a few wires and have the power and timing switched in a matter of minutes between tracks.

Any info you guys can add or share from experience will be taken into consideration and is much appreciated.Is all this feasable? or am I dreaming?

thanks


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## smokinHOs (May 30, 2006)

*New track...*

Trip20..

I would recommend a single track that utilizes both the inside and outside. I too wanted to have an oval and a roadcourse.. so why not have both? So I designed the oval to include the roadcourse and simply moved three or four pieces of track and added a couple straight pieces to go with only the oval. That way your Tjets can open up in some straights and your mag cars can get a little roadcourse action and some straights. And when oval is the way to go.. just run a straight oval with either type. You also get to use one power supply and one timing device as I did..

Think about it.. it works out quite well.

-Marc and Marcus


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

many real ovals with high banks also have an infield course that uses part of the main oval. so the previous suggestion sounds good. sounds like a simple matter of changing a few pieces of track to race just the oval, then change it back for the road course. of course, I don't turn too often, I mostly just go straight and then into the fence. so, what do I know? ....LOL


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

I agree with these guys -- If you design a road course you will probably see a section where you could "short cut" the course by swapping out a few pieces of track and end up with a nice oval.

Something like this, for example.









Good luck with your build and post lots of pics. :thumbsup:


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## Ogre (Jan 31, 2007)

You could add a couple of the old service road pit lanes to make the switch of tracks easier. e-bay has them from time to time. Good luck on your build.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey 202020,

Here's my track build using Tomy track, an oval around a road coarse.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=220632

A two lane oval using the wide radius banks would be great.


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Welcome aboard! You're on the right track coming here for inspiration and information. Be sure to check out the older track builds. If you sort the forum on the number of replies, you'll find great ideas and learn what other people have tried.

Here are my thoughts:


Build as big of a table you can
Make the table light weight
Put the table on wheels
Experiment with as many layouts as you can - run them in each direction

Here's the link to my build-in-progress: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=257356

Don't miss Roll's thread: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=285340

I have also attached a Word document with many links I have found useful.

Most importantly - have fun


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

The "experiment with as many layouts and run them in each direction" tip is probably the best one from the bunch!! Being able to run both ways makes for variety, and you'd be surprised at how combo curves can flow great in one direction and lousy in the other! LOL Make sure you really like what you have before you make anything permanent. 

Putting the table on wheels is another great thought. I did it with my huge 10' x 11' L shape table, and it made marshalling easy. I put 2 controllers on the back side of the table, and 2 on the front. Mine really wasn't for racing though. Competitions here were basically last man standing, which included an active RR Xing.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Here's a few 10x5 layout designs I did a few years back. This includes some dual track layouts with a road course inside a banked quad-oval. I've done some convertible layout designs too, where you swap out a couple of pieces to convert a road course to a flat oval, but they are all 16x4 designs. I will poke around and see if I can find them and put them up. 

http://min.us/mvjZVh

Here are some convertible track layouts:

http://min.us/mveMrVL

Use your arrow keys to switch between the different layouts.


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Thanks much to everyone for the replies. Plenty of good stuff to consider. thank you all for the links to resource material.
One thing I learned from checking out the info is its going to be a bigger job than I thought. Ive never put any plans down onto paper,just in my mind. I have so much running thru my mind its almost overwhelming. I have realized I need to go one step at a time and I can work my way thru.
So,I have started by clearing an area for the table and making plans for table construction. Then I can set up some different tracks and see what I want. as outlined in my first post.

Progress has been made and per Dobas request here are some pics.
As it stands,all construction plans have been cleared with local officials(my Wife) and zoning accepted by the zoning board (my Wife). The local homeowners assocaition(my Wife) has stated they will keep a close eye on what is constructed,they don't want an unsightly flimsy contraption that is going to fall over and bring area values down. 
Land has been aquired and the crews(me) have cleared it.
This is what I started with









After many hours of reorganizing and cleaning,here is what I have now










I need to get rid of the table,its broke and find a home for the 3.5' x 7' mirrors.

As per info I read on hoslotcars I was hoping I would be able to get a 5'x10' sheet of plywood in my area but no luck finding it yet. I may have to adjust the table design.
His table legs are only 30". I was thinking 36". What height table do you guys have? Is it a comfy height? Im 6' tall.

Heres some of the goodies i will be running





























I will keep you guys posted as I make progress.

Thank you to everyone :wave: 
I am sure I have plenty of questions.


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

Good luck with your track build. You have a nice bunch of cars there that look like they are chomping at the bit to run a few laps. Tom


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Baby that Red Bull car!!! It's worth some bux now a days! Great start cleaning up! I haven't been in a nice basement in 20 years. You're lucky!!! :thumbsup:


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Off to a great start! Please keep us posted - we love to see your progress. Obviously you are a skilled negotiator from your success with the local authorities! Great choices in cars, too! Gotta love those 442's! Dr. Olds would be proud! Tom is right... they are definitely chomping at the bit! Good luck!


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

4x10 plywood can be found relatively easy, but I've never seen 5x12 stocked in a home improvement store. 

And I would disagree with the link's assessment of OSB (chip or wafer board) as the wrong choice, especially if the basement ever gets humid. It's much less prone to warping than plywood, and it's softness would be welcome when attaching things to the top. Wish you were nearby, I'd offer up a free quart of sealer to wipe the top with. 

Speaking of sealer, it's usually not hard to find a used can of stain with about a spoonful missing. So if you can find a couple mix em together, stain will work great as a sealer since it's getting covered up. Probably need in the neighborhood of 2/3 quart to do both sides of the top and dollar stores always have cheaper brushes than home improvement stores. Pre-seal/staining the sheeting outside before building may make the building inspector happy when she doesn't inspect micro-dots of stain flicked all over the basement 

If the zoning board likes the smell of cedar, consider using some for the 1 inch lumber on the table edges/walls

Happy Buildin!


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## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

just some Ideas.
1. Plywood supply house: woodworkers, cabinet makers,
They may have great products maybe 2 pc of 4x8. 
Maybe for a few extra $ you can get a lighter stronger Multi Layer.
2. Sound proofing board on top of that.
3. Costco has an outdoor Ping Pong table 5' x 9'. its strong and
folds up.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

triple20 said:


> ...and find a home for the 3.5' x 7' mirrors.


I always thought it would be neat to hang a long mirror at an angle over a slot car table
so people behind you can watch the race without looking over your shoulder.

Looks like a great space for a track. :thumbsup:
One thought, if you're gonna have it up against the wall, 
you may not want it to be more than 4 ft unless you have some gogo gadget arms!
My track table top is 36 inches high. I think our first one was 40 on casters.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

NTxSlotCars said:


> One thought, if you're gonna have it up against the wall,
> you may not want it to be more than 4 ft unless you have some gogo gadget arms!
> My track table top is 36 inches. I think our first one was 40 on casters.


I second his thoughts on table width, our table is 54 in wide and placed into a corner, we had to buy the good magnetic telescoping pickup tools to get to the cars at some spots in the track. They work well for retrieving the cars, l just have to make sure the kids don't start sword fighting with them, well I cant always blame the kids about the sword fights, it will really screw with other drivers if you stick it in their ear while driving, must be that magnetic thing. All that being said if you have the room it sure is nice to have a wider track area for your course.

Boosted


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

A wider table isn't as much of an issue if it's on wheels. You can roll it away from the wall to do your construction and maintenance work, and when racing have a marshall (or 2) stationed on the back side. When you're done running, roll it back against the wall for extra room.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

A good table height is between 28-32 inches. It also depends on the height of the racers. From an ergonomic standpoint it is easiest to reach across the table when the table is at the height of your waist because that's where you have the greatest flexibility and hence reach. Raising the table up above your waist reduces how far across the table you can reach. On the other hand, if the table is too low you'll be bending over too far to reach for cars or to work on the track and scenery. Also, if you will be sitting on a chair or stool while running cars you need to pick a table height that is compatible with the chairs or stools that you will be using.

Wheels are fine, just make sure that you buy wheels that are capable of handling the weight that you will be putting on them.


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

*an update and some questions please*

Thanks to everyone for their input,lots of great tips and advice.Thank you!
I will have my table set a couple feet away from the wall so there will be all around access to the track.
All week I have been working on the blueprint for my table and checking the home improvement and lumber stores for supplies.
I will be using the 1x4 frame design as seen at hoslotcars site.I had to resize everything to fit my needs,size and lumber availabilty.
What would be a good height for the sides of the table to keep the cars from meeting their demise from hitting the concrete floor?from the table top up,how much height is needed to keep the cars from going over onto the floor?
I will be using #8 wood screws to hold the 1x4 frame together,what size pilot hole should I drill to keep from spliting the 1x4?

What type of material is Homasote? When I ask for this,everybody has the same reply...what???
I have found a rigid styrofoam board up to 2" thick,some other kind of softer foam board with a tin foil outer layer 1"thick, and a softer cushy styrofoam that returns to its shape after compression,it has a plastic like outer coating and is half inch thick. Does any of this sound like Homasote or a suitable canidate for sound damping?

I probably will not be painting my tabletop green.At my local hobbyshop I found a roll of simulated grass,it is a vinyl backed velour material,thinking about using this.

Going to buy some lumber to get started today,I will post pics when there has been some progress to show off.

thanks and heres a pic to hold you guys over :wave:


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

BTW...those mirrors are heavy,they have a wood frame on the back to keep them from flexing,I mean heavy.It almost looks as if, when they were removed,they took the wall with them :lol: With my knowledge of building construction, I could never hang them from the ceiling without them crashing down and killing someone.

So the red bull car is worth some bux now huh? Ive only had it probably about a year or so. I have no intention of selling it but out of curiousity,what are they going for now?
I find it an added bonus when something in my collection has more value than what i paid.  Think I gave around $25 new in the package.

thanks :wave:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I've seen Red Bulls range in price from $75.00 to $125.00, depending on where it's listed and how many bidders are after it. 

Homosote is kinda like a paperboard, about 1/2" thick. It's a light grey in color, and on the heavy side. I've used it as a top cover for hobby tables since I was a kid. It can be scored with a utility knife, and snapped off at the score. It does have some sound deadening properties, but only so much. I always laid it over plywood so there's still some noise. It is flexible to an extent, and may not be suitable on it's own over framework. I would imagine over time it would sag if not supported properly. 

Foam board (the pink and blue stuff) is fairly stiff, and would have better sound deadening characteristics than the homosote, but I'm not sure how attaching the track to it would work. I would also back it up with a plywood base. I've used it for scenery, and it can be easily sanded to shape hills, mountains, etc. My next table is supposed to be covered with the stuff, but the funds never seem to be there to try it. My plan is to sculpt the whole table top and set the track into the recesses. Model railroaders use the foam board in various ways, and glue their track pretty much right to it, or cover with plaster cloth and them lay track down on that. I would think putting plaster over it would bring back the sound issue.

Good luck making your decision. There's a few choices out there, each with different pros and cons. Take your time and choose what's right for you.


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Wow! that red bull car brings a pretty penny 

Yes,I will be using plywood for the table top,the homasote or substitute is for the sound deading.

I sorta figured the Homasote was some sort of fiber or paper board. It dosent seem to be available in my area. Have to figure out a good alternative,I am thinking about trying the half inch thick stuff I described above.

thanks


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

For a sound deadner I used some vinyl from a local auto interior guy. It comes bigger than 4 foot wide by a few inches I think and usuall is at least 20 foot a roll. I have 2 4x16's and it was 50 a table for my size. Best thing I ever did. Easy to keep clean and looks great in gray.


BTW sweet rides your planning on running. I run all of mine too.:thumbsup:


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

I am not the fastest carpenter but here is the progress so far.
I have almost half a table done. I am making 2- 5'x5' sections to total 5'x10'.I had to do it this way so it can be removed from my basement in case I ever move.It's modular  This way,I can take the legs off,seperate the 2 sections and carry the table top out in 2-5'x5' sections
There will be a shelf on the bottom for storage.










:wave:


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Great start dude. :thumbsup:

I think I have that same exact hammer with the red handle.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

triple 20,

My tables are 31" tall and I am 6' 2 1/2" tall.

Gotta love 442s and looks like you have plenty of other cars to run also. 

That table looks great so, it won't be long before you will be running slots around then? No hurry...

Bob...are you done yet?...zilla


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Nice start


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

*not finished but progress*

Thanks much for the comments and info guys! 

Still have more to do,fit the center section,add the supports for the legs on table #2,cut and add the sides,then work on the lower shelves.
My table height ended up at 32".I think the 4x4 legs are overkill but I was afraid a 2x4 would bow or warp.I was kind of leary of the 1x4 frame screwed together but the plywood really stiffens things up. The table seems like it will be very sturdy and somewhat lightweight.Maybe because I am dealing with 2 sections.
So far,overall I am very pleased with how its turning out,after all,I am not a carpenter or designer so...pretty good for a truck driver 

What is a good height side barrier from the table top up,to keep the cars from going off the table onto the floor?




















:wave:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

triple20 said:


> Thanks much for the comments and info guys!
> 
> Still have more to do,fit the center section,add the supports for the legs on table #2,cut and add the sides,then work on the lower shelves.
> My table height ended up at 32".I think the 4x4 legs are overkill but I was afraid a 2x4 would bow or warp.I was kind of leary of the 1x4 frame screwed together but the plywood really stiffens things up. The table seems like it will be very sturdy and somewhat lightweight.Maybe because I am dealing with 2 sections.
> ...



Table looks sweet. And I have to say those are gorgous!!!! I was holding a silver one the other day and am going back to grab it!!!!!


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

triple20 said:


> What is a good height side barrier from the table top up,to keep the cars from going off the table onto the floor?


My barriers are about 4.5" - they keep the cars on the table



I used plastic gutter guards - they're nice and flexible 



Check out my build thread, too!

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=257356


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

triple20 said:


> :wave:


Keep up the good progress and posts, Triple20. I love seeing your track come alive. Those MEV '68 Olds are unbelievably cool. You're a 1st rate HO car picker in my book!

Some love for the '68 442...


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Another option is removable wall panels that slide into slots around the table edge. This also gives you the option of using Plexiglas panels so you avoid the "Track in a Box" look that is so common. Or you can use Masonite or other sheet material for the panels. With clear walls your track looks like it's floating in space and you can admire it without peeking down into the box.That's what I've done. An added bonus is that with clear walls you can shoot pictures through the wall. Since the walls slide in and out this also makes working on the track much easier. My backdrop is also mounted on panels so I can swap it out (or make it reversible) should I so desire. The slide-in panels are left a little loose as well, so they give a little when a car hits them. The panels are 4" tall and the slotted walls in which they sit are about 1" tall and padded with weatherstripping where crashes are common. The white walls look like crash walls and you can decorate them as you see fit. I think a wall panel system would work especially well for a modular table/track setup. 

http://min.us/mvnZil9


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Thanks to all of you for checking out my build and offering tips and hints.
Its also nice to see so many others that like the look of an Oldsmobile :thumbsup:
Here is a pic of my progress so far,main part of the table is complete.I am really happy with how sturdy this table feels now.And light also,after I get the shelving on the bottom,2 people will still be able to pick it up and move it.

Need to buy lumber today for lower shelves and need to brainstorm for ideas on making removable plexiglass side panels like AfxToo,I really like this idea!Only problem,I dont have a router,just basic hand tools.

Any ideas how I can slot the wood for grooves for the plexiglass to slide into?
Any idea on where to buy plexiglass?



















:wave:


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Heres a shot with the lower shelf in place.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Smells like fresh cut wood in here!!!! Looks great. :thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Ahh love that smell. Like an old butcher shop.


And Damn it I see I need a solid black!!! I wasn't aware of that!!

Soo cool looking. I have to admit I been grabbing alot of the different colors. I won't have em all but at least a dozen!!

Oh on that slot, I bought a nice router at Harbour Freight for 20 measily dollars and it has done every shelf in my attic so far and with a HF 5 dollar bit too. Same bit since I started doing the room. Just used it on the 25 foot shelf err drag strip.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Hey Joe, 

Is it this one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-cutout-tool-42831.html

or this one??
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-trim-router-44914.html

I gotta route a track!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Hey Joe,
> 
> Is it this one?
> http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-cutout-tool-42831.html
> ...



It's the lower one. I say go for it. Once you get the hang of it, it's not bad.


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## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

HEY Walter
It is great to see that you were able to get around to building your slot table. You are doing a good job. My friend next door bought a drag strip so I have been going through my 4 jamer cases of cars to get them ready ro race, so hopefully when you are done I will be ready to have some fun too.


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Thanks much for the compliments guys

That router is priced right...thanks for the heads up,I have a Harbor Freight close by :thumbsup: and thanks for the link 

Bill...your the closest slot guy to me,you will be the first person I call when the track is ready. :wave:


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

> Any ideas how I can slot the wood for grooves for the plexiglass to slide into?
> Any idea on where to buy plexiglass?


Plexiglas is easy, just go to Loews Home Improvement - they will even cut it into strips for you for free, but be prepared for some odd looks when you tell them you want "that big sheet of Plexiglas cut into 4" or 5" strips along the length." When I did this it took the guy 45 minutes to do all the cuts but he was cool about it and it was less work for me. Other places may charge you to cut the Plexiglas into strips but if time and precision matters you may not mind paying. You can then get a cheap Plexiglas knife and do the short cross cuts yourself at home.

You can do the grooves in a number of ways depending on your arsenal of tools and ability to use them. One way of course is to use a router or table saw. The techniques involved with those tools are obvious if you own those tools. However, another technique that does not require a router is to use strips of sheet material and build up a "sandwich wall" that has a slot in it to accept Plexiglas or other material. 

Say your total wall height that you are wrapping around your table is 8 inches because you want to expose 1 inch above the table and want to have a couple inches hanging down below the table to attach a skirt from the inside using velcro or a sliding channel. You would then cut a bunch of long strips of sheet material 8 inches high, let's say 1/4" Masonite, enough to wrap the table twice, and cut half as many thinner strips that are slightly thicker than the Plexiglas but not as tall as the thicker strips, say 1/8" Masonite, with the difference in height being equal to the channel depth. If you want your Plexiglas to sit in a 1" channel then the "meat" in the sandwich would be 7" in height and aligned with the bottom of the taller walls. You would then prefabricate the walls by stacking the 1/4 inch, 1/8 inch, and 1/4 inch strips and glueing them together. Because the strips are all aligned along the bottom you'd end up with a bunch of composite walls with a 1" deep slot along the top. You can adjust the depth by varying the height of the "meat" in the sandwich. With a deeper slot you could get away with not having as many intermediate stanchions and supports but you'll need to buy more Plexiglas (or whatever you are using for wall panels). The total wall thickness would then be 1/4" + 1/8" + 1/4" = 5/8" - which is a reasonable wall that will be very sturdy and not look chunky or add excessive weight. 

You could also build up the wall in-place without gluing the strips together. The rationale for gluing would be to allow you to miter cut the composite walls and have the slots align in the corners. It's all personal preference. My only recommendation would be to figure out the thickness of the panels and make sure the slot you create is wide enough to get the wall panels in and out easily. If there's a little slop, no big deal, it is actually good for the cars. If there is too much you can use rubber tubing inserted vertically to stabilize the walls.

I find Masonite is very easy to work with, at 1/4" is more than sturdy enough in the vertical direction to handle people leaning on it, and when painted up it looks fabulous. In fact you can bend Masonite, especially the 1/8" variety through a pretty tight curve. The next time you build a slot car table and want to really pump it up from a scenic perspective - totally get away from the 90 degree corners as much as possible. You can make your table curvy and flowing around the track and then use the "sandwich" wall technique (with or without a slot) and 1/8" Masonite to have the wall follow the curves of the table. You can add as may 1/8" layers as you need to get the total thickness desired, and use 1/4" Masonite for the larger radius curved walls. The total effect of having curved walls can be quite amazing. Masonite is also cheap and easy to cut. I recommend always sealing it either with paint or polyurethane. I have often used sealed 1/4" Masonite to cover workbench tops and periodically change it out (like every 10 years) when it gets beat up. I love the smooth factor versus plain lumber.

The secret is to use techniques and tools that you are comfortable with and that work in your environment and within your budget.


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Thanks much for all the info AfxToo :thumbsup:

Unfortunatley my table-track project has been put on hold this weekend,helping my youngest with a school project. 



We have been breaking in the unfinished table,could not resist.

Like the fancy guardrail system.lol


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Wish I had picked up one of those #32 Roadrunners when I had the chance. Sweet selection of Mopars, oh, and nice Mustang.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Nice looking Mopars! Wow.

Also wanted to mention that with the "sandwich wall" method you can use different materials for the layers. For example, you could use 1/4" birch or oak plywood for the outside layer if you wanted to dress it up with a fine wood look rather than paint. 

Same goes for the slide-in panels. Instead of plexiglass you can use opaque material (like Masonite) but paint it all fancy on the inside and/or outside if you want to change the look of your track. Maybe even swap out one theme for another, say if you host different races and want to change the race theme for each race like the pros do at the same track, e.g., Daytona 500 versus Pepsi 400. If you have kids you could let them each paint their own panel or set of panels. With removable panels and products like Masonite being so dirt cheap, your imagination is the only limit. 

I've also thought that it would be very cool to have red, yellow, and green colored LEDs embedded in the wall slot, flush with the bottom of the channel, and have them shine up through the Plexiglass wall. Have the colors tied to the race computer so when the race is green the walls glow green, yellow for track call, and red for race over and track power off. I think this could be done quite easily using relays and a low voltage power supply. Another thing I've thought of is to put impact sensors (like glass breakage sensors from a security system) mounted on the panels so when a car whacks the wall panel the wall panel that was struck lights up to alert the marshall. My only concern is that this may be distracting to the drivers. But what the heck, in a real race a real wreck IS distracting for the rest of the racers.

Nothing wrong with thinking outside of the "box."


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

*an update...temporary project halt! fail!*

Well,I spent the week brainstorming on how I could install clear acrylic for table sides without having to router slots in wood. I devised a plan and had hoped to carry it out this weekend and have my sides complete.
To cut this acrylic,they sell a hand held knife and you have to score your way half way thru then break it off.To much scoring for me!And besides,this leaves an uneven nasty looking edge that would require tons of sanding to straighten out.
The guy says you can use a small trim saw to cut it.I bought a small sample piece to test it out to make sure I can cut it this way...no go! With the saw blade rotating in the proper direction it breaks the acrylic(see pic,cut from right side).With the saw blade on backwards it cuts without breaking but melts the edge and leaves a rough chipped cut line(see pic,cut from left side).I imagine the melting would be worse with a thicker piece of acrylic which I would need.
I did some web surfing and found a couple places that sell and custom cuts this stuff to size.One place offered a quote online and gave a price the same as if I bought a sheet at the home improvement store.Another place is local,so this week I'll be looking into having someone else cut this stuff for me.









This table building is not going near as fast as I had hoped it would,thought I would be racing by now.I am nowhere near ready to give up though.









:wave: thanks for looking


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Lowes Home Improvement will cut it to size for you - for free. At least they did when I had it done a few years ago.


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Thanks for the info Sir.

I ended up finding a plastics outfit within miles of my house that sold me the product and cut it to size for the same price as buying a sheet from the home improvement stores.For a few dollars extra they are sanding and polishing all the edges. Should be ready to be picked up today.

I sure hope they are ready today so I can continue on with this project this weekend.



***update edit***
bummer...the acrylic wasn't ready today


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Aoy progress to report?


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

I appreciate you asking,unfortunately the answer is no.

Life has gotten in the way of my numerous hobbies.Just not enough time in one day for a full time job,Wife,2 Sons,house and 3 major hobbies.
I have an interest in slots,diecast and my full size cutlass S.The nice thing though is when life slows down my hobbies are there waiting for me.

I do have everything I need to complete my table,just need to find some more time.
I will keep you guys informed.
btw...I have talked 41Willys into keeping the pressure on me and lighting a fire under my behind to get things going here.
Thanks,
Walter


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