# Orange Raceway



## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

This will be a working track name, if/until I come up with something different. Really like "Lakeside Park" as a name, but that has already been used by Tycoarm (Rush Fans Unite!)

Table construction:

Went real simple here - not the billiard-table type of construction that I want, and one day will have. I'm using (3) 4' foot plastic folding banquet tables, which are supporting (4) 30"W hollow core doors. Overall table size is 5' x 13'4".

I attached the doors to each other using some metal straps, and they are just sitting on the plastic table tops. I glued some wood blocks to underside of doors, so that bumps wont slide the top on the tables.

Wheels where added to the table legs in case I need to move it, and rubber cups under the wheels to keep it from moving. May have to cut table legs down some, but that will be later after height of overall track and landscaping is determined.

This will be my first track with elevation changes and landscaping, and that is my major focus right now - trying to envision how the elevation changes will affect the track routing. I've attached a pic of my current layout, but I have already decided on some changes. 

One design 'given' is that I am going to have the complete track surface above the surface of the table. Doing this will allow me to limit the number of holes (maybe none) that need to be drilled through the table top, an also allow me to have some of the landscaped portion below the track level.


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

Nice!


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Cool!

And nice fish tank too!


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks guys!

This is the layout that I am considering. I'll start playing around with track and elevation blocks, and see if I can get a visual idea of the slopes, cliffs, and stuff.


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

Looks like it has a great flow...


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## Ligier Runner (Nov 29, 2004)

That's really nice! How many running feet are we looking at?


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## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

Lookin' good :thumbsup:


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

It is 60' per lane.


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## RacerDave (Mar 28, 2006)

Nice job. I like it. Dave.


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## BewstdGT (Jan 4, 2005)

Looks really cool Jeff. I think with that setup there are a lot of different elevation combos you could go with. Are you going to race a lot of non magnet cars? Scenery looks awesome with banked corners and I think the turn on the too left (looking from the bottom of your drawing) could be a good place for a banked section. It looks like 9" and 12" radius turns so the aurora/afx would fit there just peachy. Just throwing out the idea. It is possible to run t-jets on banked sections as long as the area of track has some speed to it. The only lane that would be even close to a problem for non mag cars would be the most inside lane for the 9". Anyway I like the design, looks like it has loads of potential! Keep us posted...and I know you will heh.


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## win43 (Aug 28, 2006)

Great looking track. Wish I had room for something like that.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks for the positive comments.

I will think about the banks Dan. I have a set of 9", and might pick up the 12", and see how that fits in. I do plan on running non-mag cars, so I would be concerned if they couldn't make it through the bank.

As for me keeping you guys posted, you know me too well!  I'm really going to try and refrain from 4 posts a day on the thread like I did on my prior build.

Right now, I'm trying to shrink the track layout some, to keep the track further away from the table edges. I'm not sure how much room I need to carry at least some of the landscaping theme outside the outer edges of the track. On my last build, I just wanted 1" for a border. Now I am thinking I may need 2" as a minimum, hopefully not much more.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Scaf,

Looks great so far. Like the layout. Don't forget to keep the pix coming as you do your magic to this layout. Thanks! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: rr


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## Dslot (Sep 2, 2007)

I like the variety of turns - constant radius, winding-down, unwinding, all different radii. Gonna have to _drive _this course - no way to find a single controller setting and use it everywhere. --D


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

I played around with Tracker 2000, and was able to get all the track edges about 2-2.5" from the edge of the table. I think (hope) this will be enough area for me to carry some landscaping effects around the complete layout.

I put 4 sheets of 3'x7' plywood, 1/8" thick 'luan' type on my table, and then traced the track layout on them. I also made a little jig of a couple dowels and a marks-alot, which allowed me to drawn an additional 'border line' around the track of about 3/4". I cut out the plywood on this border line. I'm thinking the ledge will allow me to attach mdf borders fairly flush to the track surface, instead of having to build up something from table level. I did this border even on the straights, but I will saw the ledge off in those areas where I want some landscaping to be closer to the track.

I'm hoping the plywood will allow me to do a couple things. One is that I want to try and get some undulations and camber in the track in certain areas. I know the plastic track will not allow me much flexibility, but I figure the little it does allow will be easier to accomplish if the track is mimicing the plywood underneath it, as opposed to being attached at occasional vertical supports. 

Secondly, since I have just went through the process of patching all the mounting holes in the track, I can use an adhesive of some sort to attach the track to the plywood, wherever it is needed.

So my vertical plan is:

Wood blocks, from 1/2" to 4" in height, located as required, glued to the table top.
Plywood nailed to the blocks, shims where needed.
Track glued/siliconed to plywood.

Seems doable?


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

Going to be sweet!

I'm going to use a simular method with just a couple variations...

The bonus of waiting so long to do my track into perminent is watching all the stuff you guys do... :thumbsup:


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## rudykizuty (Aug 16, 2007)

I think it's very doable. I seem to recall that is exactly how SlottV built the huge banked turned for Vargo Speedway. I know that you aren't looking to do anything that extreme, but I think it serves to prove that you'll be able to get the track to do what you want.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII gggggggggglllllllllllluuuuuuuuuueeeeeeeeeeedddddddd

bbbbbbbrrrrrrrrrrbbbbbbbbbb


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

As I started to say....

I glued the flooring underlayment to the plywood today (and in the process got quite a bit of adhesive on my fingertips).

I'm using this to provide sound dampening. It was about $25 for a roll that covers 50 sq feet. My plan is to also put swatches of this material on the top and bottom of all my wood track supports. I think I have to do something to minimize the clickity-clack of the track, from reaching the drum heads, otherwise known as hollow-core doors.

The track platform as seen in this pic is about 8" wide. I will reduce this to about 6 1/2" before all is said and done. I wanted to do this reduction step earlier, but because of the slight anomolies of Tomy track, I was worried about cutting off some of the width, and then be short in some areas. It's strange: If you build a layout with the track, mark the perimeter with the pen, dis-assemble then re-assemble the track, you can have fits trying to match your previous outline. Maybe, if you numbered each piece of track and it's location, you could get close. But I didn't want to go to that extent - yet.

Next step is to fart around with the buckets of wood supports I have cut to varying heights, and along with wood shims, get the elevation and camber changes as I want them.


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

Ah...I checked that green stuff out today when I was picking up lumber...cool...

BTW...I really like your final layout there...That is going to look great landscaped and detailed...

I just sat and drooled over portugal in a play room for like the hundredth time...

Oh Yeah...we got it bad... :tongue:


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

At least once every 2 weeks or so, I find myself going through and looking at each pic of portugal - it's mesmerizing. 

I've got the plywood cut to the proper 6" width now, with an additional 5/8" on outside corners, to give me something to mount a slide border to. I glued the underlayment squares to top and bottom of my wood supports, and started (again) to work on the elevation changes.



I'm thinking about putting shims on almost all of the corners, and even on the straights, if it fits with the flow of the terrain.





Since the shims are only 1/4", I may double them up one of the larger corners, and maybe put some reverse camber on the large corner that is at the lowpoint on the course.

Elevation changes go from 1/2" above the table to 4", and only a couple areas are 1/2". 







Nothing is nailed down yet, but that is the next step.

Thanks for checking it out!

Jeff


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

Pressure is on Jeff....you're working on your second table build and I'm just starting my first  

You once dropped me a note thanking me for pointing you in the right direction getting started...

Well...this post is to thank you for getting me going in a more serious direction with my track :thumbsup: 

At least I graduated from Tyco in the garage to Tomy in the basment


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

That's looking mighty nice. 

Make sure that your luan track support is supported at least every 12-16 inches to prevent sag. The hollow areas under the raised roadway may create some sound issues even with the underlayment on the roadway and supports. If this turns out to be an issue you can stuff the hollow or box it in with medium density upholstery foam, which you can buy in bulk from a fabric store like JoAnns. Do not use an expanding spray on foam as it can overexpand and warp the track support. 

How are you planning to attach the risers to the table? 

What are your plans for transitioning the raised track areas into the overall topography? 

If you are planning to add crash walls around the entire track it is usually much easier to do so before you add any other landscaping elements. Some viable options for this include rubber cove molding, 1/8" masonite, and plastic weatherstripping. Trying to stick what look like free standing walls into the scenery after the fact is much harder than landscaping around a wall that's anchored using supports that will eventually be hidden.


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## Ligier Runner (Nov 29, 2004)

:lol: Once again I feel like I just cobbled mine together. Superb work so far.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Crimnick said:


> Pressure is on Jeff....you're working on your second table build and I'm just starting my first
> 
> You once dropped me a note thanking me for pointing you in the right direction getting started...
> 
> ...


You're welcome - I'm glad to be able to help provide some motivatation to others. 

I am already thinking about my third track build as I work on this one.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Ligier Runner said:


> :lol: Once again I feel like I just cobbled mine together. Superb work so far.


Thanks Ligier. I actually feel like I am also cobbling this together. Even though I have some ideas on what I want to do, I have yet to figure out about 90% of what is still left to be done.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

AfxToo said:


> That's looking mighty nice.


Thanks AFXToo.

I will install the supports at least every 12” as recommended.

I am going to go ahead and fill the hollows with the upholstery foam from the get-go - thank you.

Risers to table are going to be with adhesive. I test glued a riser with the underlayment square on it to the table, and I think it will hold well enough. Plywood track-base to risers will probably be with wire nails. As for attaching the track to the plywood, I think I will need to cut a small piece of the underlayment away from the plywood, and then use some silicone to attach the plastic track directly to the wood. The underlayment was glued with some 3M spray adhesive, and it isn’t a real great bond, so in the areas where I feel I need the track to be firmly attached (wherever I am tweaking the track slightly) I think a dab of silicone from track to wood should work.

Transitions from topography to track? – not sure yet. A seamless transition would be great, but I think that would entail more filling and sanded then I want to do at this time. I’m hoping the transition will come to me when I determine what I will be using to create the topography. For the outside corners, my plan is to attach MDF slide borders that butt up against the track. A narrow bead of modeling clay will be pressed between the border and the track to fill small gaps there, as my bandsawed borders are not perfect matches to the track curves. I can then blend the topography onto the top edge of the border, eliminating a seam there. Maybe something similar could be used along the straights, and inside corners?

Crash walls are something else that I will have, but have not decided on what type yet. I will though make that determination before I start on the landscaping aspect.

Thanks for your questions and suggestions. I’m trying to think a few steps ahead of where I am at, and the input I receive helps me do that.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

I finished prepping the new track I had to purchase (priming, painting, rail cleaning, tab removal, etc), and finally have all the track I need for the layout, with some spares.



I settled on my elevation changes, and attached the supports to the underside of the plywood base. 
Power taps and timing track install are next, so I can get the wiring done and all under the track. Then, I will fill the hollows with upholstery foam.

Since the landscaping is going to take some time for me to figure out, I think I will install vinyl molding around the supports, to clean up the look while I ponder the scenery.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Finished!

Well, not _Finished_ finished - more like G "Mission Accomplished" B.

I ran all my wiring underneath the elevated track to one end of the table.



I mounted a 12x12x4 junction box underneath the table, and ran my wire bundles into it, terminating on terminal blocks mounted to a plywood backboard.



The local inspector showed up to view my work....



... as did the local UL Rep.



They said everything looked good, but they wanted to see shrink-tube labels on all wires, including destination tags. I told them I would take care of that, and they gave me the approvals I needed.



As soon as they left, I threw the screw cover on - I don't think they will do a follow-up inspection.



As for the connections on side of box, nothing real fancy - power inputs, parallel port connection, and a switch to bypass the software controlled track power on/off relay.


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## AcesFull (Jan 6, 2008)

Looks very nice. Can't wait to see the finished product. How did you do your power tracks?


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks Aces. I know I could have done a cleaner job of wiring in the box, but I was re-using wire bundles from my previous track, and decided for the most part to use the lengths as is, since they already had crimp-on connectors at the ends.

As for power taps, I also used ones salvaged from my prior track. 

Here is a link to them:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?p=1840471&highlight=power#post1840471

There is a more detailed process here somewhere, but it is a fairly simple way to make the taps.

I've wired up (3) power taps on this new track, which is 59' long. I'm still not sold that this many are needed, but I was salvaging 15" straights from my old track, and since they had wires dangling from them, I wired them out.


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## AcesFull (Jan 6, 2008)

I think the wiring is just fine. I would add some labeling of some sort though. Thanks for the link. I'm still a bit away from my final build but I can take some of the 15" straights I have and prep them.


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## martybauer31 (Jan 27, 2004)

Looking good Scaf! I hear that inspectors and UL reps like to be scratched behind the ears have their bellies rubbed!  Can't help but get you ahead in the game!


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## ScottD961 (Jan 31, 2008)

Hey really nice job on the track ! Could you give me a break down of all the pieces used? I am thinking of duplicating this layout if you wouldn't mind , at my home layout. Looks REALLY nice.
Tracy
[email protected]


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Good point Marty! If only it was as easy to get inspectors in your camp in real life.  

Thanks Scott. Here is the track piece breakdown:

Straights:
38 - 15"
10 - 9"
10 - 6"
6- 3"

Curves, 45 degree:
10 - 6"
22 - 9"
23 - 12"
20 - 15"
9- 18"

There are a few places where you can use 90 degree 9" curves, in lieu of a pair of 45 degree.

Edit: Attached is the final layout I am using. It differs slightly from the colored picture I posted previously in the thread - the result of shrinking the track edges a bit further in from edges of the table


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## ScottD961 (Jan 31, 2008)

Wow ! Nice job and thanks for the info. If you don't mind this may become my new home layout as well, OK? Lets Race!


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## ScottD961 (Jan 31, 2008)

BTW where did you buy the 4ft plastic folding banquet tables? I want to be able to break it down since I rent, Thanks again !


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

You're welcome, and no problem on you using same design. Hope to see pics of your track build! 

I got the 4' tables at Home Depot, $39 or so each as I recall. If you have a bit more room, you can use 6' tables (they are only a few bucks more, and are really more practical for other uses), and you get hollow-core doors that are 36" wide each, instead of the 30" like I used. 

That extra 12" of table-top width adds alot of valuable track/scenery area, but my available space prevented it.


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## ScottD961 (Jan 31, 2008)

Okay sounds good , I think I will get them. Thanks again for the info ! You will get picks too. I am going to do the full landscaping thing as well with pit lane and a grandstand. I got into model rail roading pretty heavy for awhile but to tell the truth operating a model train like areal one just got to be too much like work. I have always been into cars and getting back into the HO slot cars has been great !
Tracy


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

After confirming all the wiring was correct, I wanted to start attaching the track to the plywood, but realized that this was going to be more of a chore then I had expected. 

Since I patched all the previously countersunk holes in the track, my plan was to use an adhesive to hold the track down, and hoped I would not have to even do this in very many places. However, since I have used shims liberally throughout the track, nearly every piece is going to require some method of hold down, both on their inner and outer edges. If this was a 2-lane layout, it wouldn't be as difficult, and I may have to approach it as such - attaching one set of lanes, and then the other, being careful not to have a glob of something where the next lane edge is going to rest.

Little nails placed into small drilled holes in the track may also work in places, but with the 1/8" plywood, there isn't much meat for them to grab onto.

Not wanting to slow progress while I mull over track attachment, I went on to something else.

I finished making all my borders from MDF. They still need some sanding on their inner edges to fit better.

I also bought a box of cove molding ($26), and went ahead and filled the gap between track and table.



I didn't spend a lot of detail time on this, as they will eventually be hidden with landscaping. The primary reason for the molding was to simply give the track a more 'finished' look, while I work on other steps.



I placed the borders on their ledges, but they are not attached.

The other thing this does, at least for me, is provide a better visual of the elevation changes, preventing my eyes from seeing below and through a raised portion to the track and table beyond it.

The next pic shows one idea that I wanted to incorporate in the layout, which was to have all of the track in this area on different levels, as the terrain is going to slope from back to front in this view.




The next pic shows the highest and lowest track elevations - about 4" between them.




My next step is to put up some table walls, possibly temporary ones, made from 3/16" hardboard. This will allow me to terminate my controller connections (probably going to go with a simple set-up of 3 banana plug jacks), and do some laps while I continue to build.

Thanks for checking it out, and if you have some ideas on track attachment, I'm all ears.


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## AcesFull (Jan 6, 2008)

That's hot Scaf!!! Me likey 

Question 1: What did you patch the previous holes with?

Question 2: Are you in need of fastening the track to the wood it lies on or the whole thing to the table?

Soryy if they are dumb questions, but I just want a clearer idea to work from.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thank you Aces.

I patched the holes with vinyl spackling compound. 

My fastening issue is the plastic track to the wood it lies on. Actually, the track is sitting on flooring underlayment for sound deadening purposes. This complicates things, since I didn't do a real good job of attaching the underlayment to the plywood - used spray adhesive. If I am fighting a bulge in the track, and attach it to the underlayment, the underlayment will pull away from the plywood, so I will have to cut small pieces of the underlayment away so I can attach plastic to wood, if I use adhesive of some sort.

I kind of created a monster with this underlayment stuff, using it in between everything. For example, from table surface up I have:

underlayment
wood elevation support
underlayment
shim
underlayment
plywood
underlayment
track

The only place it is really causing me grief though is that final layer between plastic track and plywood.


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## AcesFull (Jan 6, 2008)

Couldn't you just drill some new countersunk holes in the track, then drill either pilot holes in the layers and use wood screws or drill thru all layers and use countersink machine screws with a washer and locknut on the backside? Maybe 1 screw in each section?


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

I could, but after going through the process of patching all the existing holes, I'm reluctant to add more. If I don't come up with another viable option then I might have to use screws.

I did go ahead and put up some hardboard table walls. I went 'curvy', mostly because when I try to bandsaw straight lines, I end up curvy anyway.


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## gordonmoney (Jan 15, 2002)

*great just the way it is*

I've been following the build on both of your tracks and can't help but be impressed. I'm not a big scenery guy so I love the way your track looks right now. It looks ALOT like a Brad Bowman track. Nice job. How do you like the painted surface as opposed to the regular plastic? What kind of paint did you use?
Gordon


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thank you Gordon.  

As for the paint, I first sprayed a light coat of cheap gray primer, and then put on two coats of Ralph Lauren River Rock paint, each coat diluted 50/50 with tap water. The river rock paint has silica sand in it, so you get a rough texture when first applied. After cleaning the rails and slots, I wiped down each piece with a rag, which removed quite a bit of the texture. You can still feel it, but it isn't as predominant as it was when I first painted it. 

Visually, I like the look of it. One downside is that the joints are slightly more visible - partly because I did not paint the edges of the track pieces, and partly because of shadows showing easier against the gray paint. On the upside, I think white fog lines will look real good against the gray, and I can also now mess with painting some cracks, oil spills, and tire wear areas.

I haven't ran enough laps to get a good opinion on the racing effect. I still need to get my controllers wired in properly. From some of my test laps , I do believe the magnet cars have lost a bit of their magnetic downforce. I imagine this is because the magnets are slightly further away from the rails, due to the paint thickness. I am getting more sliding with a Tomy SRT car then I remember having happen on my prior track.

All in all, I am still pleased with the painting of the track. If I were to do it again, I might just stick to using spray paints - light coats of gray and flat black - as I think that might even look better then the consistent gray I have now. 

Jeff


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## toomanyhobbies (Mar 27, 2005)

Very nice layout, Jeff. I love the changes in elevation. Brings in a third dimension. Should look sweet with some scenery.

A few questions if you don't mind. Do you have any regrets with the hollow core doors? I know from experience that they magnify the clickity clack sound of the sectional track. Have you run any cars on it since you put the flooring underlayment in between the table and your track? If so, are you satisfied with the reduction in noise?

Thanks in advance,
Dominic


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks Dominic.

No regrets so far on using hollow-core doors. I chose them mostly for the weight savings, as at some point I am going to have to move this track out of the house. I often grab one end of the assembly and give it a lift, just to convince myself that 2 people could pick-up the whole thing, lift it from the banquet tables, tilt it to about 45 degrees, and get it through a sliding glass door. I haven't tried the complete move yet, and probably won't until that time arrives, and also realize I may want/need to bolt some additional support members to accomplish this without destroying it.

As for sound, before I started building the track, I made a test oval - half on the underlayment and half off, and felt confident that the underlayment was eliminating some noise. Granted, I could have been biased and hoping for that outcome, but I really think it did help.



This past weekend, when I ran a few laps with the track in it's current elevated position, and all the swatches of underlayment I have placed in between anything and everything, I really felt the track noise was all but gone. The predominant noise was the actual car motors, not the track. However, I could still be showing some bias, convincing myself that the effort was paying off. I do plan on adding some upholstery foam under almost off all the track (since it is all elevated off the table), and I hope that this further dampens the noise.

After I get to actually racing more on the track, I will be in a better position to comment on the noise, and at that time, if I don't think the underlayment is really doing much, or if the hollow doors are amplifying the sounds, I will surely post as such. 

I hope to have my plug-ins for the controllers done within a week, so I can really start testing the track. My plan is to do something similar to the modular set-up like SwamperGene has done in the past:



I'm hoping to get some Quick-Port 'samples' from my Leviton salesman that I can use on the track - stainless steel wallplates and binderpost connectors. They are very similar to the above that Gene used.

I picked up a 19" non-widescreen LCD monitor over the weekend, and mounted it to the wall above the track. A neighbor was throwing away a little wooden file cart, which I modified as a place to hold my power supply, and somewhere to set the laptop I am using for laptiming.



I was happily pleased that the reed switch track I had made many months ago was still in working condition, and was registering laps on first pass.


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## RiderZ (Feb 19, 2007)

*!!!*

Lookin Good Scaf-Been eagerly watching this build as with your last one.One of these days i would like to do the whole scenery thing.I think it adds so much to the race track experiance.I still need to try out the reed switches i received 3 weeks ago.Keep up the good work!!!:thumbsup:


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks Riderz.

I'm hoping to start some scenery aspects within a few weeks.


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

No Jumbotrons  
No Sculptamold 

But...in a never ending effort to keep up with the Jones', I do have an update.

I have white fog lines! :thumbsup:

I finally proceeded with attaching the track to the plywood surface. I tried various adhesives, but none would hold the track down in the amount of time that I was willing to stand there and, well, hold the track down. Plus, doing the in-between edges of both pairs of lanes was going to be a major hassle. So....I went with nails...and...am very pleased with results.

I drilled a 1/16" hole in any area where I felt the track needed some help sitting flush to the plywood. I used #18 x 5/8" wire nails to do the holdin'. One thing that is so sweet about this method is that you can put a nail wherever you want - near the inside edge of a track, near the outside edge, centered, all three - whatever! I think I have about 25-30 nails in the track - not bad for approx 150 pcs of track. I will probably add 5-10 more, as there are still a few areas I can improve.

I then did the SwamperGene trick of heating the nail with the soldering iron. Like magic, it recesses it's head into the plastic like a turtle retreating into it's shell. Seriously guys - put the countersinking drill bits away, and give this method a shot if you haven't already. Touch up with track-matching color, and wahla!

With the track attached, I used a white paint pen to paint the edges of the track. Only slipped a couple times, which gray touch-up paint will fix.

Now, I went to the borders. My borders are not perfect matches to the curves they reside next to, and I tried various methods to fill the slight gaps. Modeling clay was to0 messy, as was spackle. I played around with small slivers of weatherstripping foam, but that was a hassle, as was touch-up sanding each piece to try and fit perfect. In the end, I just decided to attach them as is. The gaps are too small to cause a problem while racing - it was more of a cosmetic thing. Plus, the white line that now resides along the seam takes your eye away from the imperfection. 

I used some white caulking (not very adhesive) to hold them in place, as I have a feeling that when I get around to landscaping, I may have to remove and modify these some.

All in all, not much to show for the past couple weeks, but all the world in difference to me, as I can now really race on the track, which I did quite a bit of today.

I'm realy liking the X-Tractions on this track at 15 or 18 volts, turning laps at about 9 seconds. They slide around corners nicely, and I prefer the spin-out deslots as opposed to the flying off the track deslots, like I get with SG+ and SRT cars. 

While I ponder how to begin on the foam/sculptamold aspects of scenery, the next items for me to address are some wide-area lighting for the track, and learning more about the cars. And maybe buying some TJets, because I really think this track is going to more fun with the less magnetic cars.

Cheers!


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## 1976Cordoba (Sep 20, 2000)

Scaf that looks really great! Nice job with the lines!

:thumbsup:


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thank you cordoba.

I forgot - I did do one other thing.

My deal on stainless steel wall plates for the controller stations hasn't happened, so I installed some white plates with binding posts for the hook-ups.

I do need to add some fusing, but I think I will do that at my wiring junction box, since I didn't like the hole layout of the 4-port wall plates (where I could have used one for the fuse).


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## roffutt (Jun 30, 2006)

Very impressive scafremon.. Keep up the great work! 

Maybe the 6-port wall plates would work better? 2 rows of 3, maybe 3 posts on top, with a fuse some where on the bottom? You can fill the other two holes with filler plugs? 

-Robbie


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## Scafremon (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks Robbie, and I agree, the 6-port plates may be the way for me to go.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*Looking good Scaf...*

When ya get to terra-forming it's really gonna pop for ya. Hills, valleys, and treelines.... it's gonna be really nice. If you can't decide on a method right now, no worries... maybe do what I did. Use a couple different ones!... Some areas are better suited to certain methods than others. Mock-up a couple small areas using different materials/methods and see what you prefer to work with. You'll find out one of 2 things... You'll find you don't want to rely on just one method to do the job... or maybe you'll find one way is not for you at all. Either way it's a step forward, one less decision, and one less area to landscape. nd


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## BRS Hobbies (Feb 16, 2006)

The track is coming along nicely! I am looking forward to how the track will look when you add the scenery.

Best regards,
Brian


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## BKracer (Sep 25, 2005)

Scafremon said:


> This will be a working track name, if/until I come up with something different. Really like "Lakeside Park" as a name, but that has already been used by Tycoarm (Rush Fans Unite!)
> 
> call it Tobes of Hades or Syrinx Valley!!howbout Wounded City Raceway!Still taking that high road,attention all planets........


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