# The Artist (material) Formally Known As Future thread



## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Let's discuss the merits both real and mythical of this strange & magical substance.



So far, my tests indicate the stories of improving the clear in clear parts seems 100% true.

Super shine? Totally.

That's a wow.

Scratch-resistance? Tomorrow I'll try and scratch the two coats I applied many hours apart on my test emitter.
Like Scotty said, I'll let ya know.

So, stories, reviews, anecdotes on this unintentional modeling gift from the floor-care people?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Is this article still relevant?

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

SteveR said:


> Is this article still relevant?
> 
> http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html


Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## brad4321 (Jan 26, 2014)

I'm not digging this stuff. Probably all my fault, but I don't get a very glossy finish out of it. It's been a disappointing venture so far for me and Pledge.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Like any non model related product/technique it requires practice and experimentation. It produces great results when you learn how to use it. For clear parts, it's an amazing product if you want crystal clear parts, like canopies. It's a great base for adding decals to parts painted with a flat color. It levels to point where you can brush it on and it will come out smooth even.

I posted a tutorial a year or so ago on dipping parts. I can dig it up if anyone is interested.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

To get a smooth glossy coat over matte paint, you need to give it multiple light airbrushed coats over several days. If you try to shoot it on thick, it'll run, and the runs and drips will dry solid.

Apply your decals on the nice smooth surface, then brush a coat of Future over the decal. The Future should melt the decal into the crevasses and panel lines, and lock it between the clear acrylic coats. granted some decals might not respond to this, but some decals also don't respond to Microset.

You can remove Future with Windex. If you want to remove it from an entire part like a canopy, soak it in a small container for an hour, then wash it off. If you want to remove it from a small section of the model (like if you got a run), use a Q-tip soaked in Windex and rub it until it comes off. Then reapply the Future.

While I've had great success dipping canopies in Future, I've had NO luck hand-brushing it on canopies. It never seems to do that self levelling thing andshows streaks. Likewise airbrushing it on canopies - they seems to come out optically wavy.

Future's other big benefit is preventing glue-fogging of clear parts. Dip that canopy, and you can even use superglue to glue it without fogging.

Very small clear parts like landing light lenses can be attached to the model using Future, but it doesn't really have any strength for larger parts.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

robiwon said:


> I posted a tutorial a year or so ago on dipping parts. I can dig it up if anyone is interested.


I found it:



robiwon said:


> Here is a step by step tutorial on how to use Future or Pledge with Future Shine, on a clear plastic part. In the first pic you will see the materials needed to dip a part in Future. You will need the clear part, tweezers, a container to hold you Future, a paper towel, some sort of rack, and a box to put the part in to dry. Pictures are clickable.
> v
> 
> 
> ...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

And the last part:


robiwon said:


> You're welcome! Post your results when you try it out.
> 
> O.K. Here are the pics of the dipped window and an undipped window. The dipped window is on the right. Kinda hard to tell in the pic but the window on the left has a slight "milky" look when compared to the window on the right.
> 
> ...


 Thanks, this is great.


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## hubert (May 3, 2008)

Yes this is awesome - thanks for digging this up. 

I so love learning from you fellows with tips like these...


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

"Here is another angle. Dipped window is on the bottom." 

Yep. One trick to checking smoothness: for a given light source, a sharper reflection indicate a smoother surface, as seen in the bottom canopy.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Thanks for bringing this up--GREAT info!


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

PerfesserCoffee said:


> Thanks for bringing this up--GREAT info!


Yep! Make it a sticky maybe?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Thanks Chrisisall for doing the legwork for me! LoL! :thumbsup:
And thanks guys for the comments on the tutorial. I still need to finish that beast. At least all the windows are done! Actually the light reflection in the last pic was a happy accident. The lamp being reflected in the windows really shows off the difference in dipped versus un-dipped.

I was very surprised the first time I used it on an aircraft canopy, an A-10 I built. The March issue of FSM has a nice article where Future was brushed onto a jumbo jet.

Give it a try.


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## Manatee Dream (Jan 2, 2014)

So if you already have the windows installed, say, on a moebius jupiter 2 main window and porthole, you can just brush it on and let it dry? Would prefer to dip but those pieces are glued on and going nowhere.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

You could try. If I were you I would prop the hull up so that the window was flat and facing straight up and level. Brush on a small amount. Wait a day for that to dry. Make sure there are no gaps around the window for it to drip inside. Do the same for the inside of the window. Stand the hull up so the inside is level and facing up.

It would be a lot easier if you could pop the window out though.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

That, of course, doesn't work if you have a Mac.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Okay, 3 coats later and lots of drying time in between seems to indicate to me that while future definitely makes stuff shiny & look great, it's not more scratch resistant than a clear lacquer coat. The fingernail test reveals a scratch resistance to light drag, but a slight pressure drag scratches, while a lacquer coat need a moderate pressure drag to scratch.

Oh well...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Update: With just another few hours drying time, further tests seem to indicate that the Pledge/Future coat has reached its potential. It seems absolutely equal to the lacquer coats on other test subjects.
My takeaway is that, like lacquer, drying time makes ALL the difference. Plus, it smells WAY better than lacquer. :thumbsup:


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

John P said:


> That, of course, doesn't work if you have a Mac.


LoL! That's why you should have a PC.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

BTW, wear a mask while you're airbrushing Future, unless you want your lungs sealed with clear acrylic.


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

robiwon said:


> Like any non model related product/technique it requires practice and experimentation. It produces great results when you learn how to use it. For clear parts, it's an amazing product if you want crystal clear parts, like canopies. It's a great base for adding decals to parts painted with a flat color. It levels to point where you can brush it on and it will come out smooth even.
> 
> I posted a tutorial a year or so ago on dipping parts. I can dig it up if anyone is interested.


I remember your tutorial on dipping parts. Had never tried it until I seen that. Since then I've used it for several things. Not just model related. Works great for me. And the finish is tough. Thanks again for sharing. :thumbsup: :wave:


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

I find dipping works very well but you have to put it under a bowl or something right away to keep dust off.

I simply cannot airbrush the stuff. It doesn't atomize like paint and just comes out too heavy or "spits" out of the airbrush...then ends up too heavy and runs and pools.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

I have used (AFKA) Future in the past, with good results. I especially liked using it before decal placement on flat-painted surfaces.

I'm planning on using it for my Batmobile, particularly on the clear windscreens (I suppose the nice thing about the Deluxe edition is that I'll have a spare set to practice on.). I was hoping to use it to finish after decal placement. I've never airbrushed with it before, but from what you are saying, Kurok, it might be a futile exercise to begin with. Perhaps if I brush it on, doing one side at a time and with a brisk pace, based on its viscosity, it should level out OK, yes?


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## Gregatron (Mar 29, 2008)

I used and airbrushed Future for the first time a few months ago. Thinning it with Windex helped it airbrush smoothly. And, it's self-leveling, so a little goes a long way.

Great stuff! No decal silvering whatsoever!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Scotty K said:


> I have used (AFKA) Future in the past, with good results. I especially liked using it before decal placement on flat-painted surfaces.
> 
> I'm planning on using it for my Batmobile, particularly on the clear windscreens (I suppose the nice thing about the Deluxe edition is that I'll have a spare set to practice on.). I was hoping to use it to finish after decal placement. I've never airbrushed with it before, but from what you are saying, Kurok, it might be a futile exercise to begin with. Perhaps if I brush it on, doing one side at a time and with a brisk pace, based on its viscosity, it should level out OK, yes?


Depends on if you brush it on before or after you glue it in place on the car. Best to do it beforehand so you can wick away any excess with a paper towel or it will puddle on you and get all over the dash. Of course, it does clean up easily with Windex and a swab (a microbrush is even better). Really, dipping is the preferred method for windshields.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Depends on if you brush it on before or after you glue it in place on the car. Best to do it beforehand so you can wick away any excess with a paper towel or it will puddle on you and get all over the dash. Of course, it does clean up easily with Windex and a swab (a microbrush is even better). Really, dipping is the preferred method for windshields.


Yes, I was going to do that; I should have been more precise.

Thanks for the info.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

If you brush, use a quality brush, not plastic bristled cheapie. Also, don't brush too fast as you will likely introduce airbubbles. A moderately slow brushing should do the trick. But as always, practice first.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

KUROK said:


> I find dipping works very well but you have to put it under a bowl or something right away to keep dust off.
> 
> I simply cannot airbrush the stuff. It doesn't atomize like paint and just comes out too heavy or "spits" out of the airbrush...then ends up too heavy and runs and pools.


Light, thin coats! Light, thin coats! 
I airbrush it on every model I build, I can't imagine what's going wrong for ya.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

What pressure do you use, John?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

SteveR said:


> What pressure do you use, John?


I would think 15 psi or less. Too much and you'll blow it all over the place it's so thin.


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## jgoldsack (Apr 26, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> I would think 15 psi or less. Too much and you'll blow it all over the place it's so thin.


I usually airbrush around 15-20 PSI.


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## gman223 (Feb 16, 2010)

I've found that Future has more shine if its brushed on rather than sprayed, also a "light" buffing with a lint free cloth will bring out even more shine.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

gman223 said:


> I've found that Future has more shine if its brushed on rather than sprayed, also a "light" buffing with a lint free cloth will bring out even more shine.


Good tip, thanks gman!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Further testing on my part indicates Future/Pledge is not quite as resilient as lacquer. The duct tape test damages lacquer, but totally removes Future/Pledge. Is this anyone else's finding?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Further testing on my part indicates Future/Pledge is not quite as resilient as lacquer. The duct tape test damages lacquer, but totally removes Future/Pledge.


Oh yeah I could've told you that!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Oh yeah I could've told you that!


So, if you use it on a model, you can't play with it in the tub... no Future on my Flying Sub windows then.

:jest:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> So, if you use it on a model, you can't play with it in the tub... no Future on my Flying Sub windows then.
> 
> :jest:


No. There's no Future in the tub for your sub.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> No. There's no Future in the tub for your sub.


Yeah, I used to take my Seaview in the tub as a kid, with my goggles. Making that 'pochh...pochh' sound underwater was a task. I wondered why it seemed to fall apart after a couple of years...

Back on topic, the substance in question seems fantastic for display purposes, but not so much for COSPLAY purposes. 
But, a good new tool in my toolbox.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Yeah, I used to take my Seaview in the tub as a kid, with my goggles. Making that 'pochh...pochh' sound underwater was a task. I wondered why it seemed to fall apart after a couple of years...
> 
> Back on topic, the substance in question seems fantastic for display purposes, but not so much for COSPLAY purposes.
> But, a good new tool in my toolbox.


Future I use mostly to seal the edges of masking tape prior to spraypainting. It seals the edge and [prevents paint bleed real well.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Yeah, I used to take my Seaview in the tub as a kid, with my goggles. Making that 'pochh...pochh' sound underwater was a task. I wondered why it seemed to fall apart after a couple of years...
> 
> Back on topic, the substance in question seems fantastic for display purposes, but not so much for COSPLAY purposes.
> But, a good new tool in my toolbox.


Future I use mostly to seal the edges of masking tape prior to spraypainting. It seals the edge and prevents paint bleed real well. 

I did the same thing in the tub, underwater sonar pinging with my Aurora Seaview, but it's been weeks now since I've done that. :jest:


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

Mods, can we make this thread a sticky?


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

I agree, this needs to be stickied.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Stupid question, but is it a good idea to use this on all clear pieces to even act as a protector from scratches? I have a few models where the clear parts are nice and clear so I wonder if adding a coat of this would help protect it.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Chrisisall said:


> Further testing on my part indicates Future/Pledge is not quite as resilient as lacquer. The duct tape test damages lacquer, but totally removes Future/Pledge. Is this anyone else's finding?


Did you give it at least two days to cure?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

KUROK said:


> Did you give it at least two days to cure?


More like two weeks. Three coats over three days with a couple of weeks to cure. 
Should I try 10 coats over ten days & a week to cure?


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Opus Penguin said:


> Stupid question, but is it a good idea to use this on all clear pieces to even act as a protector from scratches? I have a few models where the clear parts are nice and clear so I wonder if adding a coat of this would help protect it.


It wouldn't hurt! Even really good clear parts look clearer after a dip in Future. Plus it protects them from glue fogging.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

Anyone have any experience with dulling Future? I've been using it as my clear coat on the 1:350 Refit, but I'd like the final coat to be a bit less shiny and more akin to semi-gloss.

Or can anyone recommend an acrylic semi-gloss clear from another manufacturer?


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

barrydancer said:


> Or can anyone recommend an acrylic semi-gloss clear from another manufacturer?


Krylon. It's at Wallyworld.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Chrisisall said:


> Krylon. It's at Wallyworld.



Just make sure if it's going over enamel that the enamel is fully cured.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> Just make sure if it's going over enamel that the enamel is fully cured.


Yeah, wait at least ten minutes after you paint the enamel on.

:freak:

Or maybe five days. Yeah, that's better.:thumbsup:


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Just saw this thread for the 1st time, don't know how I missed it back when it got started. Anyway this tuff also works as a primer for acrylics, but if you're going to brush paint wait a few days otherwise you will most likely have to do it all over.
I've got an 1/72 scale YF-23 that's half built with a cracked canopy, now can I use a clear glue like Elmers and then apply future on the crack and make crack disappear??? And yes Elmers makes a clear glue now, not just the white stuff.


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## SusieQ (Nov 24, 2012)

barrydancer said:


> Anyone have any experience with dulling Future? I've been using it as my clear coat on the 1:350 Refit, but I'd like the final coat to be a bit less shiny and more akin to semi-gloss.


Mix it with Tamiya flat base to dull it down. Depending on the ratio you use it can go from very flat to satin. Just use 1 part flat base and differing amounts of Future to vary the effect.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Just make sure if it's going over enamel that the enamel is fully cured.


It'll be going over Future. Or perhaps a glossier type of Krylon if I switch to it.


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

SusieQ said:


> Mix it with Tamiya flat base to dull it down. Depending on the ratio you use it can go from very flat to satin. Just use 1 part flat base and differing amounts of Future to vary the effect.


Cool, thanks.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

irishtrek said:


> ...I've got an 1/72 scale YF-23 that's half built with a cracked canopy, now can I use a clear glue like Elmers and then apply future on the crack and make crack disappear??? And yes Elmers makes a clear glue now, not just the white stuff.


That would really depend more on the glue. Applying Future won't hide a crack that goes all the way through. But if that clear glue can fill the gaps making contact with the full edges of the parts, and remain completely clear, it might. Won't hurt to try.


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## gman223 (Feb 16, 2010)

They have changed the name again :freak: Did not know this till yesterday, bottles last too long. Thought I'd post in case I'm not the only one.

"We've recently restaged our Pledge® Floor Care products, and the product formerly known as Pledge® Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine is now Pledge® Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish.
Therefore, you can expect it to provide the same great, shiny results as it always has."

Got to remember that the next time I'm shopping for it, unless they change it again.


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