# Into Darkness Enterprise Painting Templates from Aztek Dummy



## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

"Well, that certainly took you long enough"...

Truth is, I've been working on these for a couple weeks now. I've got them ready to go, I just needed to actually build the little bugger (with lighting) so that I could show them "in action". and that took the time.

Here's a peek at the top saucer. This is only stage one of the final paint job. there will be a "randomizer" applied over this pattern.

I should have them out this week. I hope y'all can wait a couple of days :wave:


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## Heero Kasshu (Dec 19, 2012)

Do they happen to com with window masks Lou?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Yes they do. Plus masks to protect the clear bits from getting paint on them.
And masks for the bussard collectors to make the easier to paint.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Randomizer panels will be cool. Would be nice to have some on the refit 1:350th as well.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Yes they do. Plus masks to protect the clear bits from getting paint on them.
> And masks for the bussard collectors to make the easier to paint.


How much Lou, and how soon before Cult has them? They look awesome. Now I hope Paul comes out with etch and lighting soon. I am almost done with the 1/72 Dragon Saturn V and this is next. PS what lighting did you use?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Don't know exact pricing yet. low to midrange of my usual prices, I'd imagine. Not as much as the bigger enterprise sets, that's for sure.

the lighting is bare bones. just a few LEDS and strips for the windows. just something to show the theory. The next one I build will have all the winkie-blinkies 

One more pic for the evening. I removed the window masks to show how well the strips work.
Yeah, I mixed warm and cool, but I had to use what I had on hand


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Hi Lou, will you have masks for the small lit spaces in the deflector dish?


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## DLazenby (Jun 23, 2013)

Hi Lou they look great cant wait to get some!


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## NathanJ72 (Dec 16, 2012)

These are what I have been waiting for, do these have the strongback pattern someone else noted?


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## cylon75 (Feb 22, 2011)

jaws62666 said:


> How much Lou, and how soon before Cult has them? They look awesome. Now I hope Paul comes out with etch and lighting soon. I am almost done with the 1/72 Dragon Saturn V and this is next. PS what lighting did you use?


There is another lighting kit coming out soon along with Aztec decals and Paul is doing a etch kit.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Yes on the strong back and deflector


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## mikephys (Mar 16, 2005)

These look great as usual Lou. When do you think Cult will have them?


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

yay! yay!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*Dish This!*

here's the deflector dish


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> here's the deflector dish


Awesome, how about the bussards. Are you shipping to Cult this week?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I hope to start shipping this week. finishing up the instructions now


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I hope to start shipping this week. finishing up the instructions now


Nice. Do you have any pics of the bussards with the masks on?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

like this?


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> like this?


Awesome. I cant wait to start on this kit


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## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

great! thanks lou. i'll be ordering a set as soon as they are available.

any advice on exact paints? i prefer tamiaya rattle cans, so hopefully they'll have something that is close.


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## edward 2 (Oct 6, 2010)

what is the Aztek for ? 
the hulls plateing?
field plates?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*update time*

got the saucer ready for detail paint and decals.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> got the saucer ready for detail paint and decals.


wow Lou amazing. Is the mask for the lower ring included and what colors did you use? Today is my Bday and these will be a great gift for myself once they become available.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Jaws,
The darker ring is part of the overall azteks, it's just up to you to paint them differently. 
here's what I did:

1) dark gray primer over whole saucer
2) mask areas of that ring I wanted to keep original dark gray
3) spray a coat of medium gray over all saucer
4) mask the rest of the ring with painters tape. using the grid lines to trim the tape
5) spray a coat of light gray over all of saucer
6) apply painting templates for the rest of the saucer
7) spray a coat of light gray (almost white) over whole saucer
8) remove masks (except the taped ring)
9) sprayed a light blending coat of white
10) removed painters tape and vinyl from the ring

now that's a simplified version. Naturally I let it dry real well between coats and I did some shading and such, but that's the nuts and bolts of it.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*Templates are GO*

hey guys,
Quick update. ..
The design is locked and I've gotten the first orders from Cult, SSM and Fed. 

I'll be plotting all weekend and shipping orders on Monday.

here's a couple more pics taken without the flash to show off the lighting.

I'll take one more round of pictures before I sully the hull with decals


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## checksum (Mar 31, 2012)

Ive got a question and since I get a chance to ask you in person. Are you still using the same type of vinyl or whatever the material was for the 1/350 Enterprise refit was? With the same amount of stickiness? I am looking to order 1-2 sets but it always seemed to me that they were wayy to sticky. Can you talk about that?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Sure we can talk.
By and large, yes it's the same vinyl. if you tell me how long ago yours was I can tell you if it was the exact same brand or not. Once in a great while I'll try a new brand, but if I have any issues I go back to what works best.

Stickyness is affected by two factors - excessive heat and whether there was any clearcoat sprayed over it. That's why I avoid both. don't sit your kit out in the sun to dry if you're using the vinyl and don't spray a coat over the vinyl.

The best way I've found to counter the adhesive is to first either handle the piece with your fingers or stick it down to your skin to get some body oil on it.

Of course all of the tips in the world won't help if you skimp on the surface preparation. When you peel up the vinyl, it's going to separate at the point of least resistance. If the bond between the adhesive and the paint is stronger than the bond between the paint and the primer and/or the primer and the plastic, then that's where you get paint lift off.

plenty of cure time between coats and a good, grease free surface are your best defense.


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## checksum (Mar 31, 2012)

Oh I got mine about 6-7 months ago through StarshipModler I believe. They are black. And they do stick super well. 
I will follow some of your tips when I resume. But right now I wasted the bottom saucer ones so Ill have to buy another set. But I will also have extras in case I mess up again.
That got me thinking. Do you or any of your resellers sell pieces like just the bottom saucer or just the nacelles? I know some of the decals from some places offer decals split up into groups.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*Painted and ready for decals*

here are some last pictures before the tedious decaling starts.


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## Fraley1701 (Sep 3, 2003)

*"Who Mourns for Adonais*?"  Nice work Lou! :thumbsup:


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

I love you guys, but you always post pictures with resolution from like 1998.  Lookin' good though, Lou.


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## Robman007 (Jan 23, 2013)

That's a very nice looking model. I'm not the biggest fan of the heavy aztec color, so I'm going with a pearlescent scheme, like the Refit. I've alreayd laid out a white primer followed by a Pearl White. Just gotta do detail paint, then it's on the pearl colors.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Robman,

color choice is a very personal thing, but I'll tell you that when I build these, I have a tendency to go overboard on the contrasting colors for the purposes of demonstration and so they will photograph better for the instructions. a lot of times the more subtle shadings get lost in print. For my personal builds, I do favor the more subtle variations


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## Robman007 (Jan 23, 2013)

No doubt. That model still looks really good. I kind of wish the plastic was a bit stronger, especially with the transparent pieces. Very flimsy. One of my clear warp drive pieces (the super thin bottom part) came snapped in 3 places and the registry numbers on the decal set continue to bug me. Still, cool model.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I reinforced that part with a piece of round styrene stock. (.10 IIRC ) down the center also helps to light block. I thought of using brass rod there as well


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*Decal Time!*

I know it's not technically on topic to the aztek templates, but I thought this would be the best place to document how the rest of the build is going.

Taking my sweet time on the decals, only putting on a section at a time and letting them dry out. Not rushing them like I used to. 

My general impression is that the decals themselves are pretty robust, I was afraid the fine lines would rip or fall apart, but they seem to hold up pretty well to being moved around. What I don't like is that the colors are coming off a little too "cartoony" particularly the blue and red. I can see that they are going to need some paint assistance to tone them down. Especially that big blue shape on the belly. A good aftermarket alternative would be most welcome. 

It's odd that there were decals for the thrusters on the fantail, but not for the saucer. Again, something for the GK boys to do.

the "drawn on" details on some the decals are too bold and again too cartoony. the warp core doors on the spine and the hatches (I guess) on the saucer underside are the biggest offender. I kinda like the bottom dome decal, but I wonder why there isn't one for the top dome

the nacelles have a network of decals and some are meant to overlap others, but there seems to be no correct placement order spelled out in the instructions (unless its in German)

lastly, the blue stripe that goes on the "hoods" of the nacelles are provided as straight runs, but will need to be cut up to follow the curves of the actual piece.

I've yet to take on the saucer stripes. those look like they'll be the most demanding

bottom line? They're good enough for now, but I can see that there are plenty of improvements that could be made to really bring the finish of this kit up several notches


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Lookin' good there Lou!


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Lou, what are you thinking it will cost? 
And how do we order?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

the first batches are out to the resellers. I'm guessing they'll be in the 30 dollar range, but it's up to them to set the actual prices


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## Robman007 (Jan 23, 2013)

Model looks really, really nice. Great job. 

I'm holding off on the decals till aftermarket accuratized decals are out.


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## NathanJ72 (Dec 16, 2012)

just ordered my set from Starship Modeler. Thanks Lou.


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## checksum (Mar 31, 2012)

Wow, thats looking very sweet. I love everything except that big baby blue thing on the belly of the engineering hull...
I may have to order a couple of sets...


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Hi Lou. I just got the Aztec set. Beautiful, one question though. I don't see the masks for the center of the deflector dish . I also cant find the strips for the rear nacelle caps. Also do you put the masks on the windows first and them insert them , or glue them in first and then cover them?


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

Very nice work, Lou. You've taken a mediocre design and turned it into a model that's really nice to look at. 
I think the design would have looked a lot better on screen if it was a physical model, but that's just me. Again, really nice work. Apollo would be so proud that he'll shoot shit from his finger tips


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> Hi Lou. I just got the Aztec set. Beautiful, one question though. I don't see the masks for the center of the deflector dish . I also cant find the strips for the rear nacelle caps. Also do you put the masks on the windows first and them insert them , or glue them in first and then cover them?


jaws,

no mask for the inner circle of the deflector. I found it easy enough to freehand. excellent idea for version 2.0. noted.

You are absolutely right about the nacelle strips. I moved them aside to make room for the strongback, but forgot to put them back in. You can use some of the generic straight strips for those if you like, but anybody who wants replacements for those bits should send me an email to the address on the instructions subject "nacelle strips" and I'll send you a set.

I glued the windows in first then covered them from the outside


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## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

Lou, have a set on order from CultTV -- can't wait to dig in.

Question, what do you use to seal your decals? I have used Krylon Crystal Clear and also Tamaiya Clear -- but sometimes it seems like either can make decals wrinkle up. Perhaps the secret is several very light coats.

Just wondered what you use. Nothing worse than applying all those templates and delicate decals only to have it all go to H-E double hockey sticks when you apply your protective clear finish.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I use the Krylon gloss before decals and the krylon flat after decals.(about 3to 4 days after the decals to give them time to set. if anything looks like its going to come up, I put a little bit of solvaset on it)

be sure to shake the krylon really well, tho. and go lightly


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## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

thanks for the tips, lou. 

also, since you are doing a 2nd one, if you wanna sell me your first one, let me know. 

t


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## mikephys (Mar 16, 2005)

I have a set on order from the Cult. I hope to get started on this model week after next. I noticed Starship Modeler is already out of stock on these. I hope this is a great seller for you! M.


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## wjplenge (Apr 14, 2011)

Cult TV man is out of stock now too. Looks like Lou will be busy for a while just keeping up with demand on this product. I'm sure he'll be getting an order for more from Cult TV and Starship Modeler


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*final thoughts*

plotting as we speak 

since the sun finally came out for the first time in like, forever, I thought I'd bring the ship outside for a couple of beauty shots in natural light.

There is a lot to like about this kit. Like many of you, I had reservations about whether the joint at the top of the pylon was beefy enough to hold up the "ample nacelles" and I did reinforce that area with some 5 min epoxy - but just with clamps alone, I could tell the parts were up to the job. and the inside pylon "saddle" is a great counter stiffener to the outer pylons. the end result is when glued properly, the nacelles are straight parallel and true.

the only two faults I could find are the lack of detail in the saucer spine part and the boneheaded choice not to make the impulse deck part clear even though they made parts clear that shouldn't have been. Hopefully the GK market will correct these as well as provide a upgraded Impulse deck a la the end of "Into Darkness"

there are many things I would change about the decal sheet as well, but I'm not going to beat that dead horse

I've seen a few of the blue spinner circuits for the bussards, but what i'd like to see would be some actual fan blades for those. maybe resin, maybe folded PE they're just too big and inviting not to do something in there

happy building


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## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

sweet.

lou, you mind spelling out the specific brands/colors of primer and spray paint you used?

rattle cans or did you airbrush?


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Did you flat coat the nacelle domes? It nicely does away the toy-ish look of the clear parts.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

indigo,
yes the domes got the same krylon flat spray as the rest o the kit after the decals set up for a day or so

OK, colors... as best as I can remember...

primer - Duplicolor gray primer sealer

one coat of Modelmaster aircraft gray

everything else is poly scale colors because all I have locally is a train store and that's what they carry.

I made a mix of 1/2 undercoat light gray and 1/2 reefer white and did my texturizing with that. then a blending coat of 1/4 undercoat gray and 3/4 reefer white. accents of pure reefer white and pure Milwaukee Road gray and Santa Fe Silver the black I used was "grimy black" which isn't a true black but a very dark gray

primer was out of the can, but everything else was airbrushed


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## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

thanks, lou.


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## dehayes (Mar 9, 2006)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> the only two faults I could find are the lack of detail in the saucer spine part and the boneheaded choice not to make the impulse deck part clear even though they made parts clear that shouldn't have been. Hopefully the GK market will correct these as well as provide a upgraded Impulse deck a la the end of "Into Darkness"


Lou, I agree with your assessment, especially the impulse engine.

Anyway, are you going to offer JUST the clear parts and buzzards masks. Not that I'm dishing your work. It's just that I have a limited budget and thought I could just get the clear and buzzard masks now and when the dollars became available, get the aztek masks.

Here's hoping,

Duane


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Duane,
sent you a PM


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## rtbeuke (Sep 29, 2008)

Lou, will you be making more masks?
I was on vacation when CultTVman announced them and by the time I saw it he was out of stock.

Love your buildup!

Tom


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

you bet. 
I've restocked him a couple of times already. If he's out again, I'm sure he'll be ordering more


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Jaws,
> The darker ring is part of the overall azteks, it's just up to you to paint them differently.
> here's what I did:
> 
> ...


Hey Lou I am still a little confused on putting the Aztec on the dark lower ring. I have the dark primer on. If I mask the ring to keep it dark and spray the rest of the saucer a lighter grey, I have the dark ring , but without an Aztec pattern. How do I get the Aztec design on it without making the ring lighter?


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## rtbeuke (Sep 29, 2008)

Just got the email from him there back in stock and ordered a set right away! Thanks for making such a great product!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

jaws62666 said:


> Hey Lou I am still a little confused on putting the Aztec on the dark lower ring. I have the dark primer on. If I mask the ring to keep it dark and spray the rest of the saucer a lighter grey, I have the dark ring , but without an Aztec pattern. How do I get the Aztec design on it without making the ring lighter?


OK, I see where you are at. I should have been clearer (I need to put you on payroll, you are keeping me on my toes )

you've got the dark primer on. Ultimately, you are going to add three coats of gray over the primer

let's call these coats A,B & C. each of these coats are progressively lighter than the last ending up almost pure white.

There are two shades of the dark ring. they're made up of dark primer and gray A. so what you need to do is go ahead and apply the azteks that go on the dark ring now. then spray gray A over the whole ship. then use painters tape to cover just the rest of the ring. (Trapping the primer and A underneath) you will leave this painter tape covering on top of the whole ring for the rest of the paint job.

Now spray coat B, apply the azteks to the whole saucer, and then paint coat C. 

After C has had a chance to dry real well, remove the azteks. including the painter tape and dark ring azteks. you can then dust the saucer with a light coat of C again to blend the pattern and not make it so stark

so to recap, your main azteks will be made up of B&C colors and the dark ring will be made up of primer & A colors

does that help?


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> OK, I see where you are at. I should have been clearer (I need to put you on payroll, you are keeping me on my toes )
> 
> you've got the dark primer on. Ultimately, you are going to add three coats of gray over the primer
> 
> ...


Thanks Lou. That's what I thought. I just wanted you to confirm it. On The Aztec pies. What is the easiest way to line them up and apply them? Do you take one Aztec pie and start at the top and take each piece and put one on the positive and the next on the negative position on 2 sections until the pie is done and then move to the next 2 sections?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Yes, except I start at the outer rim and work to the middle.


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