# ´63 Impala undercarriage



## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

Unboxing this AMT kit I knew I had some work ahead. I like this ´63 Chevy model but the kit is on a low level of detail. I´m still not completely done because there is so much I want to replace or customize. The undercarriage is basically just one piece of plastic with a simple array of details. I have been through this before so I had no inhibitions to chop up the floorboard. The x-frame keeps it all sturdy and in shape.










Next I filled the cavities with sheet styrene in 0.5 and 1mm. I extended the x-frame and filled the cracks with putty. Then sanding, filler spray and a second round of putty.










Next came all the missing parts: Suspension, driveshaft, differential, exhaust system. The differential I modeled with FIMO plastic clay on an 6mm aluminum tube. All the other parts are cut and glued from styrene profiles or sheet. Shock springs are 1mm aluminum wire. The bumpy area in the middle will be covered again with the exhaust system so I refrained from investing too much time in getting it smooth.










Here is what it ended up into. The mufflers I scavenged from my spare parts box, but the pipes I finger bent from 3mm styrene rod. Look like a fat 3 inch system. The V shaped front suspension parts I rescued from the deconstructed cut-outs.




























Now I can finally move on to the body.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

An awesome transformation! 🤙


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

Andy- 
Thats quite the fix- do you use putty on the plastic sheet? Also, do you know where they sell extra generic pieces for situations like this, or do you just save stuff as you go for future builds?


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

Cracks and holes or the occasional dent I fill with putty. I´m currently very happy with AK white hard, it´s easy to apply smooth and drys quick. There are a few suppliers here in Europe that sell upgrading parts for model cars, mostly racing cars. These parts are made of resin or laser-cut steel. All quite expensive.

Usually you will have some leftovers from a kit, some include custom parts or different designs. I keep almost everything. That way I often have extra goodies to customize an engine, the interior or better looking wheels and tires. You never know when you might want to switch seats, add a scoop or alternate the exhaust system.

Fortunately I have an shop in town for arts, crafts and architecture models. There I can get all kinds of sheet styrene, very thin tubes, rods. But you can buy these things in the net from special suppliers.


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

Yes, I ordered some sheet styrene earlier today. Im going to check out that AK putty stuff you mention. Ive got a question in regards to priming. Is it necessary to prime if the model color plastic is similar in color to what it will be painted? If BMF is going to be applied, should the area be masked prior to painting/priming? Also, does a very fine sanding on the sock plastic help prior to painting/priming? I appreciate any advice you can throw this way- Thanks-


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

Priming helps the paint stick better. But to make the primer stick better, I would advise to wet sand the surfaces with 800 to 2000 grit. In that matt surface the paint will stick much better. Apart from an occasional filler primer, I use a high quality matt rattle can paint for priming. But I know that there are "special" primers on sale. It´s important to have the surface dry, dust free (!) and silicon free, meaning in best case no fingerprints on the prepared surface. After you have rubbed dry your model body, try not to touch the big areas like the hoods, roof or doors. 

Sorry, but what is BMF?


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

Andy Oldenburg said:


> Priming helps the paint stick better. But to make the primer stick better, I would advise to wet sand the surfaces with 800 to 2000 grit. In that matt surface the paint will stick much better. Apart from an occasional filler primer, I use a high quality matt rattle can paint for priming. But I know that there are "special" primers on sale. It´s important to have the surface dry, dust free (!) and silicon free, meaning in best case no fingerprints on the prepared surface. After you have rubbed dry your model body, try not to touch the big areas like the hoods, roof or doors.
> 
> Sorry, but what is BMF?


OK- I was wondering what works good and I have heard before that not to touch surfaces without gloves on due to oils. The BMF (Bare Metal Foil) is the stuff I need to practice with because it was not working at all on the General Lee build and I got real frustrated. Its the stuff for the trim to make it look shiny like chrome. I dont know if its best to mask off the areas that the foil will be applied or if I can just apply it directly onto the painted surface. Ill post a couple pics of the car I had issues with-


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

One important thing that I hadn´t mentioned yet. Bare metal sticks best on a gloss surface. Maybe that´s a reason why your having your troubles. On a flat surface the foil hardly sticks at all. So it´s best to apply the foil after at least the first glossy coat, whatever color or clear. No masking necessary, at least not for the bare metal.


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

Ok- that's what I needed to know. I should have a gloss prior to applying the foil. Should I start getting into the habit of scribing the trim for doors and panels prior to painting during prep? I


Andy Oldenburg said:


> One important thing that I hadn´t mentioned yet. Bare metal sticks best on a gloss surface. Maybe that´s a reason why your having your troubles. On a flat surface the foil hardly sticks at all. So it´s best to apply the foil after at least the first glossy coat, whatever color or clear. No masking necessary, at least not for the bare metal.


Heres 2 pics of the General Lee I had issues with. I think it turned out ok, but learned quite a few lessons that I can apply to future builds-


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

If this is your first build, you need not be ashamed! 
My first Imperial has that same "touch" to the paint job.
Your next build will be a leap forward, next you will start getting into the tricky details.
Just treat the whole body in the same way and after a gloss coat the foil will stick better.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

HagMan said:


> Ok- that's what I needed to know. I should have a gloss prior to applying the foil. Should I start getting into the habit of scribing the trim for doors and panels prior to painting during prep? I
> 
> Heres 2 pics of the General Lee I had issues with. I think it turned out ok, but learned quite a few lessons that I can apply to future builds-


Nothing wrong with this one! Nice details and paint work. 🤙


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

Thanks you guys- yeah thats called a novice "peel" paint job there. This is my first build probably in over 30 years, so I guess you could call it a first. The radiator is slanted as it would not fit vertically because it interferes with the hood? It also has 2 pins on the bottom that you would assume would go into slots, but no slots anywhere, so I am going to take it out and shave the bottom of it to make it fit. Ive heard of others having issues with this MPC model and I think its the only MPC I purchased a while ago. I am working with cheap brushes and need to look into good quality ones. Ive read from experienced folks that a good brush makes a big difference. Do you guys have any suggestions as far as paint brushes and sizes? I am working on the Christine car body and prepping it for primer. I dont have any "model" primer, just vehicle primer which I think will work as long as I scuff with 2000 grit prior to the first coat. What do you guys use to wipe the bodies off with in-between sanding and coats? Can I just use a normal spray like Simple Green? Thanks for your guys advice/suggesstions-


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

"Orange" peel paint was how many 1:1 factory paint jobs came back then, too!

As to brushes - buy the most expensive ones you can afford - think sable. As a trade off - buy the best quality set you can afford - to get the most and best assortment of brushes for the money. You may never use some of the brushes, but look at those you will use vs the cost to get them. 

For details you need the #0 #00 and #000 sizes.

Have you already tested your automotive primer on some scrape pieces or sprues from that kit? Some paint brand components will eat the plastic if sprayed directly onto it.


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

As far as the primer goes, I did some re-thinking and instead of using auto primer, I used Rustoleum flat grey to be on the safe side. As far as brushes, I ordered a couple of each (Windsor-Newton and Princeton) brushes from Micheals last night, so its going to be interesting seeing the difference with quality brushes. I clean brushes immediately in a small plastic cup of water with a little dishwashing liquid. I also put a peice of colored tape on the brushes I use only with enamels which are the Testors paints I have. I use mostly the acrylic Vallejo paints the most because they clean up easy and if your painting window trim and screw up, you can easily remove with water. My major challenge in building the Christine car will be the BMF as I have no experience with it. The question regarding the BMF with Christine is that the area to be covered with BMF is the entire length of the car on both sides, however there are 3 main sections when looking at it- (first section is from from lights area to the front door trim, second section is the door and third being from door to tail fins). Im thinking it should be done in sections? I will be taking pics as I go to document the steps. Can I use steel wool instead of 2000 sand paper for sanding purposes?


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

My first reaction to steel wool was a shudder. You can´t wet sand with steel wool and I guess it just won´t doe the job correctly. Applying the bare metal in sections sounds a good idea. Even if it overlaps 1 mm or so, it probably won´t show much.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Yeah, 0000 grade steel wool is the same as 400 grit sandpaper.


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## HagMan (6 mo ago)

OK- thanks guys- lots of good tips in here


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