# First attempt at painting...



## JONNYSLOTS (Apr 10, 2011)

Heres my first attempt at painting using spray cans, Needless to say its gone back to get stripped and redone love the body i think im going to try the reverse blk and silver. Any tips please and dont worry if their not positive i want to learn go ahead and be straight i can take it. Thanks and for now i do not want to invest in an airbrush so it will be good quality spray cans for now.

SLOTMONKEY GARAGE

Thanks in advance Vince.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Make sure your body is as clean as possible. Any old paint, oil, even a finger print can cause a fish eye or worse. 

You can warm the paint next to your heat duct (not too close, and don't forget it's there!) or run it under warm water for a minute, shake and run it under warm water again. When you shake the can and it doesn't get cold again immediately, it's ready.

Light coats are essential! Don't shoot for coverage in one coat. The paint will be too thick, and (especially enamels) take forever to dry. Follow the paint's drying between coat instructions time wise at a minimum. Building up multiple layers heavy, and you could wait months for the paint to harden and dry completely. Lacquers dry faster, so if you have the option, pick them! Lacquer may not be exceptionally shiny until it's clear coated.

Give the body at least a day to dry up completely before spraying a clear coat on it.

Remember, you can spray anything over lacquer, but if you start with enamel, you're stuck with it (for the most part). Lacquer can attack enamel paint.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yep, clean is essential.
maybe a primer coat very lightly. even flat white can be considered a primer coat.
paint light colors first and add dark colors after.
follow directions on can. spray PAST body before stopping and/or making another pass.
experiment with bodies that don't mean that much to you.
practice is important and helps develop proper technique.
trying to make a masterpiece the first time out will be frustrating.
a left over cheap window fan set on low to draw excess paint that is in the air helps to keep things neat, unless you have a spray booth.


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## Super G Man (May 13, 2013)

*First time at painting*

Patience, patience, patience and learn when to walk away and do something else. Sounds simple but is one of the hardest things to do. Can't tell you how many times I've had to start over because I was in a hurry and screwed it up.
Started with enamel but have now switched to Lacquer exclusively. The more you do the better your work will become.


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## JONNYSLOTS (Apr 10, 2011)

Oh man I forgot the pic


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I wouldn't spray over chrome. I have had mixed results trying. Chrome can be stripped with ammonia, window cleaner (let it soak over night), or if you're daring, paint thinner. For thinner, use about 1/8 a sheet of paper towel, and only enough thinner to wet a little of it, and rub. Don't go too wet, or work an area to long, or it will attack the plastic. The first thing to go will be details like trim, etc. 

Like said above, take baby steps, and don't expect perfect right out of the gate. I've stripped more than I care to admit!


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## 60chevyjim (Feb 21, 2008)

you can use ezoff oven cleaner to strip chrome 
and it can be used to strip paint too.
I just stripped a tyco 40 ford coupe with it 
for the paint on AW looney toons car bodys I use 91% alcohol.


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## JONNYSLOTS (Apr 10, 2011)

Man i must be computer illiterate or my stuff was lost in limbo.
1) First i removed all the chrome using mean green it strips it right down.
2) I sprayed with a good quality can a matte black finish.
3) I then masked it using the blue tape not masking tape as i was instructed by a member here that it wont cause as much bleeding if your patient and let it dry.
4) I then spray painted a couple of coats of hi gloss chrome back on and you can see the results. And in my haste i smudged it and the masking was`nt just right so back into the mean green and attempt 2 this time i`m going to spray all chrome then mask for matte black ill post it here.


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

Paint can bleed under tape if the edges are not sealed. I use Tamiya tape and carefully burnish the edges. There can still be problems with shut lines and the like. One of these days I am going to try Frog Tape. One trick is to shoot some clear after you apply your mask, that will seal the edges. With Frog Tape you would go over the edges using a wet brush and let that dry before painting.


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## JONNYSLOTS (Apr 10, 2011)

Frog tape is that better than the blue or green painters tape?
Also what does it mean when you say burnish the edges?
Newbie at this not use to all the terms.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

JONNYSLOTS said:


> Frog tape is that better than the blue or green painters tape?
> Also what does it mean when you say burnish the edges?
> Newbie at this not use to all the terms.


Hi Vince, 

Frog tape is intended for use with latex or water based paints. 

Blue tape is quick release and doesnt hold a proper edge against volatile liquid films. Blue tape doesnt seal. It barely provides a mechanical barrier against brushes and rollers at best. It's household tape

Green tape has good adhesive strength and provides better bleed protection. Typically used in the autobody trade for masking because it stays where ya put it and you can re-use chunks of masking during the grubbier primer stages on a big project. Due to it's good adhesive properties it wont lift or flutter when you're spraying, but because of it's great "stick to it tiveness" it will rip off any weak or ill prepared base coats if you dont use caution when removing it. 

NEITHER Frog tape, blue tape or green tape is suitable for setting the open edge of a paint change in the top coat (two tone or stripe) because basically it's paper tape. The factory tape edge on the roll isnt really smooth to start with. No matter how sharp your razor is, a re-cut paper tape edge will still be ratty under magnification. Additionally, due to it's thickness using paper tape is the "scale equivalent" of masking with 1/4 inch plywood. Think of it as using your front door mat to mask your 1:1 car. You need a mask not a fuzzy edged dam. To get light straight edges you need a thin clean edged barrier and minimum paint build.

Ideally, to create a mask, one should use a thin liner tape to set the edge/transition line first. Liner tape provides a clean edge. Any good hobby house will have liner tape. I also regularly create my own by using regular old 3m clear desk tape that has been razored to width. It works great.

Burnishing means that you immediately follow along your masking and rub it down carefully. Dont leave it until later, otherwise the adhesive dries up; or you get contaminants stuck under the edge, while you're still working. Although burnishing tools are sold at art stores; the end of an artists paint brush handle or a toothpick. Any narrow object with a blunt or rounded end is suitable so long as it is smooth, just depends on the tape and the location.
For big stuff your fingernail is perfect. 

Once you set properly set your edge the next step is the "back mask". For modeling, you can use green or blue to complete the back mask. I generally use green on the outside liner tape edge, and finish the model in blue. After back masking and prior to spraying, I like to re-burnish the edge and check for any hair or fuzzies that may have stuck to the tape edge. This is another critical reason to use thin tape to set your edge; there's less exposed stickum for crap to stick to.

Tips: Keep your tape in the bag that it comes in! Tape that has been laying in the dirt and dust is unacceptable if you want clean lines.

As you are not ready for the air brush, look for a good nozzle on your bomb cans. They are not all created equally. Find one that atomizes the paint finely. Be sure to clean it after use and save it for other jobs. 

Make sure you prespray everything you touch, EVERY time. A good regimen of test shooting before aiming at your model can save you a lot of grief.


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## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

Bill ,

What did you mean by Pre Spray ?

I've been reading with interest but you lost me there .

Thx ,
Gonzo


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## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

If the nozzle has gotten clogged and you do not test it by spraying on a sheet of cardboard you could make a real mess of your project. When you are using rattle cans you can wipe off the nozzle as soon as you are done spraying or turn the can upside down and do a quick squirt. If a rattle can has a nozzle with a good spray pattern you might want to save the nozzle after the paint runs out.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Rich nailed it. Always spray something else first. Whether spray bomb or air brush. Nothing's worse than putting a goober on a body because something wasn't right. Better to find out on a disposable object, than have to strip and re-shoot.


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## JONNYSLOTS (Apr 10, 2011)

I am going to respray tonight and see what happens.


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## DonSchenck (Nov 14, 2012)

Is there a fool-proof way to remove any original paint? In other words, if I have a white plastic body A/FX Camaro with the red and blue paint on it, I want to strip it down to just the white plastic.

Then paint it *MY* way.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

While you can remove the paint, chances are there will be a paint "stain" from the red & blue pigments... After stripping, prime, then paint. I use Scalecoat ll, some use Pinesoil, Super Clean, Purple Power, Easy Off oven cleaner, etc. As always, opinions will vary...RM


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I just got a bottle of Scalecoat II today!! Anxious to try it out!!


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## Super G Man (May 13, 2013)

*First time at painting*

Scalecoat II is the best and fastest remover around. I use it exclusively since it was recommended to me and I tried it. You can run it through a fine strainer after doing a few cars to get rid of the residue and use the liquid again and it doesn't lose its strength.


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## DonSchenck (Nov 14, 2012)

Where does one get Scalecoat II? Thanks.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Any stocked hobby shop should have it. It's big with train guys, so anyone who sells model trains should have access to it. Even if they don't stock it, they can order it...

Park Lane Hobbies has it for sure... Search Mittens29 here on HT and send her a PM.


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

ask for Darrell ( Honda) also... Just don't give him your phone number...RM

http://www.parklanehobbiesonline.com/


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## sracer56 (Mar 6, 2009)

If you're painting a light color first prime with a flat white, if you're painting a dark color prime with gray primer or flat black.


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## bobhch (Apr 22, 2007)

I'm not sure if this has been stated here or not yet?

For a two tone paint job,Don't spray into the taped edge...spray over it.

Imagine a brick as the tape. You don't want to hit the front side of the brick.
You want to spray over the top.

This eliminates paint building up in the taped edge.

Bob...I've painted stuff before...zilla


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## sethndaddy (Dec 4, 2004)

slotcarman12078 said:


> I just got a bottle of Scalecoat II today!! Anxious to try it out!!


So have you tried it out yet?? Best paint remover for those pesky Autoworld paints.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Not yet. I meant to snag a spaghetti sauce jar to put it in, and missed it by a day. The TM is too efficient with the recycling, and had it all bagged a day early. Next time...


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## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

This is a little bit late, since the masking has already been talked about, but I like to use the frosty looking scotch tape. Brand doesn't matter, as cheap as possible.
De tack it a bit by sticking it to your forehead first ( no hair ).

Sounds silly, but leaves a razor sharp edge with no bleed under, if burnished well.

Also can be cut into tiny strips with xacto and metal straight edge.


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