# JLTJs on 9" curves



## TK Solver (Mar 18, 2004)

I picked up two of the Bowtie Corvettes but I've only got six JLTJs -- two Mustangs, two Novas, and two Corvettes. I love the bodies and I keep hoping that with each new release, the chassis will improve to the point where the cars can consistently make it around the inside lane of a Tomy 9" quarter turn without hopping out of the slot. No luck. I've added silicone rear tires. I've tried slight changes to the play in the front wheels. The track connections seem smooth enough. I'm using Parma 60 Ohm controllers and I realize that those aren't optimal with these cars but even at very steady low speeds, the cars often jump out. The guide pins on the TJs seems stiffer and longer than the JLXTs. Is that an issue to consider?

Like I said, I love the look of the bodies and I'd really like to share in the enthusiasm you all seem to have for these cars but I need them to make it around a 9" curve. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Just for laughs, I'm also curious to hear some creative uses you all have for the Tomy 6" one-eighth turns. I have stacks and stacks and stacks...


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## mking (Apr 25, 2000)

get a 120 ohm comtroller, or just buy a 120 ohm resistor for your parma econo. then you can drive the JLTO easily. i have both JLTO and original tjets, and i find i have better luck tuning and running the JLTO, despite their flaws.


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

Really, the controller will make a BIG difference. I have a number of JLTOs that run great and handle okay with absolutely no modifications except for silicone tires and a few drops of oil. I have three Parma controllers... the 90 ohm and the 125 ohm get the cars around fine. The 60 ohm makes the corners tricky...

Now, of course, if you trim the screwposts and massage the body down lower onto the chassis, that makes a big difference in handling too...  For example:

you mentioned the Bowtie Brigade vettes? check the difference in height between the red one and the blue one...










This required a good bit of hacking underneath, but it makes a huge difference both functionally and aesthetically...

--rick


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## TK Solver (Mar 18, 2004)

Rick, you're right. The lower center of gravity should make a significant difference and the look is perfect. Incredible picture. Sounds like I'll be trying a couple of new controllers...


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## noddaz (Aug 6, 1999)

The controllers will make a big difference.
Using a 60 ohm controller with these cars is like using an on/off switch...
Now if you could find the new Parmas with the plastic trigger...
Scott


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

I believe all the NITRO's BRP makes now use the new controller as I remember Jerry raving about the new one back before the Shootout. Tom if you read this give them the scoop.

Roger Corrie


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## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

TK, until those 120 ohm controllers come.....get some Tyco/Mattel controllers and splice them onto the Tomy plugs. Tyco controllers are 75 ohms, which will give much better control than Tomy controllers (35 ohms).

JLTO pins are a little longer than JLXT's, but the low stance that XT's have lets the pin get very low in the slot. And switching to the 'flag' pin give better performance.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

The Tomy set controllers that I just measured are 60 ohms. They also measure 2-3 ohms at full throttle. I hate to say it ... but the Tomy controllers are real crap. 

With the 120 ohm resistors consider putting an inline fuse in the circuit. I would guess that a 3A one would be okay but you may want to contact the vendor for guidance. That thin resistor wire probably can't handle an overcurrent situation for very long.

I've never liked the guide flags on HO cars. Pins give much better performance but the the flags do help compensate for irregularities at the slot joints. But since the original AFX snap track and on into the Tomy track the guide slots are tapered at the joints and it's less of an issue. With a permanent setup you can also tune the joints for smoother transitions. In fact Aurora actually screwed up with the combination guide pin that JL has blindly copied. The guide flag should have been shorter and the guide pin should have been longer. A guide flag worked better with the old shallow slot lock & joiner track and a longer guide pin would have worked better and delivered better performance with the deeper AFX track. We used to trim the combo flags down to work with the L&J track and combined L&J and AFX track. The original AFX cars had a shallow guide flag that worked well on all track but a performance upgrade was to go with a metal pin. 

All of the previously mentioned tips will help. Another thing to try is to tune your car so it has little inherent braking and then try running it with and without dynamic braking. By inherent braking I mean the braking that is present without dynamic braking being used. It's a factor of the magnets, brush tension, geartrain friction, weight of the car, etc. If you run your car without dynamic braking and let off the throttle completely your car will coast to a stop. How quickly it does so depends on its inherent braking. Whether to use dymanic braking in addition to the inherent braking is often a personal choice based on your driving style. Some folks like a car with little inherent braking so they can let off early and ease through the curves. Others like to slam it deeper into the curve and catch it with the brakes. I like to start with little inherent braking and then play around with the dynamic brake to see what works best. With a standard controller the "playing around" is simple, it's either on or off (connected or not connected). I almost never hook up the dynamic braking with magnet cars and almost always hook up the dynamic braking with TJets. The JL TJets tend to come out of the box with too much inherent braking. What I call "inherent braking" is really "coast" but unfortunately that term has been misappropriated to define a controller feature that applies current to the car even when the trigger is released. That's not coast, but the word police must have been on vacation that day.

You can reduce the inherent braking in your car by reducing the brush tension slightly, lapping the gears, and doing anything that reduces the friction in the drivetrain.

Also, when you upgrade to silicone rear tires, try going down a size or two from the stock height on the rear. When you mount the silicone tires gently round the edges of them with 600 grit sandpaper. If they are SuperTires you may have to use a Dremel for this. Finally, the Corvette Grand Sport body is probably the best of the Bowties for handling. Try it if you have one.


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## vaBcHRog (Feb 19, 2003)

AFXToo,

I believe the new BRB Nitro design has the fuse alreday built in their 120 Ohm controllers.

Roger Corrie


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Roger, you're right. I checked the BRP website (http://sky.prohosting.com/horacer/brp/nitro.html) and see that they do include a 1 amp fuse. Cool.


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## TK Solver (Mar 18, 2004)

I ordered two 120 Ohm resistors from HO World (slotcarbob) and installed them in my Parma Plus controllers. Bob sent a note saying to be certain to glue the back of the resistors first so I did. I wasn't sure why at first but I did it. It became clear during installation of the second one. I brushed the resistor wire connection while I was adjusting the rotation of the resistor and it popped off of the strap. Had I not glued the resistor wire, it would have completely unraveled.

Anyway... Thanks for the advice. You guys are correct in recommending the 120 Ohm resistors for JLTJs. They're all much easier to drive. The middle lanes have an advantage because the corners can still be tricky but I'm sure I'll get used to it. I can take the tough lanes when guests come over...


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## Pomfish (Oct 25, 2003)

TK Solver said:


> I picked up two of the Bowtie Corvettes but I've only got six JLTJs -- two Mustangs, two Novas, and two Corvettes. I love the bodies and I keep hoping that with each new release, the chassis will improve to the point where the cars can consistently make it around the inside lane of a Tomy 9" quarter turn without hopping out of the slot. No luck. I've added silicone rear tires. I've tried slight changes to the play in the front wheels. The track connections seem smooth enough. I'm using Parma 60 Ohm controllers and I realize that those aren't optimal with these cars but even at very steady low speeds, the cars often jump out. The guide pins on the TJs seems stiffer and longer than the JLXTs. Is that an issue to consider?
> 
> Like I said, I love the look of the bodies and I'd really like to share in the enthusiasm you all seem to have for these cars but I need them to make it around a 9" curve. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Just for laughs, I'm also curious to hear some creative uses you all have for the Tomy 6" one-eighth turns. I have stacks and stacks and stacks...



Grind down the front stock tires big time.
This will lower the whole chassis, get more pin in the slot and get the pickup shoes on the rails at a better (flatter) angle. If the stock wheels are not true, which is the case more times than not, try using a set of Tyco Indy front wheels and axle. 
This change made my Bowtie Corvette handle 10 times better. It was Pushing (deslotting in middle or beginning of turn)

HTH
Later,
Keith


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## Mad Matt (Dec 16, 2004)

How do you Grind down the tires? I mean, besides using sandpaper and running the car and grinding off bits, but how do you do the front tires? Thanks
Matt


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## Pomfish (Oct 25, 2003)

Mad Matt said:


> How do you Grind down the tires? I mean, besides using sandpaper and running the car and grinding off bits, but how do you do the front tires? Thanks
> Matt


Chuck up an Axle and Rim in your Dremel and use your wife/girlfriend/moms Nail file and run the dremel while pressing it on the nail file. Use a small amount of pressure, let the tool do the work, too much pressure and the tire will fly off big time.
I usually keep my finger just next to the tire so it can't fly onto the "Evil Carpet Of Death"
The only way to find the tire once lost in the "Evil Carpet Of Death" is with the Vaccum cleaner, which finds EVERY Brush, clip, tire, pickup shoe, etc that you ever lost and then jams up the cleaner and ruins the belt!

Anyway, I use a Cheap dremel clone just for the purpose of turning tires down.
Just make sure the rim and axle you use is good/true.

Thanks and Enjoy!
Keith


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## Captain Fred (Feb 19, 2000)

I just purchased the Nitro 120/Parma controller from BRP. I bought the one with the built in fuse. On my Tyco terminal track, you clip the white wire to the + side and the black wire to the - side. The Nitro 120 works excellent for JLTOs. :thumbsup: I'll have to get another one soon.

I bought some of those 6" & 15" Tyco compatible 1/8 radius curves from Jay's Race Place too. They work great! They join up to the Tyco track better than the original Tyco stuff. I'm a happy camper! :thumbsup:


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## doctorslotcar (Jul 25, 2004)

MAN you guys are helpful. Seems like all my questions get answered in here. thanx again and lightning NEW YEAR


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