# Announcing Atlantis' new UFO from The Invaders!



## MEGA1

We are pleased to announce Atlantis' newest kit, a 1/72 scale plastic model kit of the UFO from the classic TV show The Invaders. Made from the original Aurora Molds, this has not been issued since 2003. The kit is molded in silver with a clear, detailed interior; a retro reissue featuring original box art. Expected arrival in June/July 2015. Preorder yours now!


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## Richard Baker

I wonder if the 'clear' refers to the alternate clear top disk that was with the original issue?
It is a wonderful kit- not screen accurate but fun to build!


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## John P

Awesomeness!


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## mcdougall

Now You`re talkin`:thumbsup:
Looking forward to this one !
Mcdee


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## djnick66

Cool. Hopefully the top and globes come in clear


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## scooke123

This is a great announcement!!! I'm most excited about the clear dome (if that's what they are talking about). I wonder if they are going to include the base from the 2nd issue (the one from the Space Coupe)?
Steve


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## SUNGOD

Cool!:thumbsup: But agree the top dome should be in clear plastic plus the globes underneath.

And also what about the big main circular engine? 

It would be great to have that in clear too so it can be lit up. Even coloured clear orange like it was on the tv (at least I think it was orange).


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## djnick66

The engine on the bottom is molded into the whole bottom of the saucer


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## Richard Baker

Somebody at one time had a clear resin insert you could replace the engine panel with- perhaps when this kit is back out on the shelves one will be offered again.

IIRC it was rather easy to cut out the stock section and add this one.


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## djnick66

You could make your own easily... use some RTV or mold putty and make a mold of the lower part with the engine, and then cast a copy in clear or tinted resin


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## Mark McGovern

Richard Baker said:


> ...It is a wonderful kit- not screen accurate but fun to build!


While the exterior is a little off, the control room portion of the interior is a fairly accurate representation of the UFO interior set.



















SUNGOD said:


> ...And also what about the big main circular engine? It would be great to have that in clear too so it can be lit up.


Yeah, but I've always thought it could be replaced by one of those reflective orange disks they make for automotive applications.


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## Atlantis1

Hey that looks like the reflector on my Schwinn Stingray.


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## SUNGOD

djnick66 said:


> The engine on the bottom is molded into the whole bottom of the saucer




Surely that's no problem? Just mould the whole thing in clear plastic then mask the engine off whilst you spray the rest.


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## Mark McGovern

Atlantis1 said:


> Hey that looks like the reflector on my Schwinn Stingray.


Ya know, A1...this _is_ the Internet. You coulda said "Corvette" and we'd all have believed you.


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## djnick66

SUNGOD said:


> Surely that's no problem? Just mould the whole thing in clear plastic then mask the engine off whilst you spray the rest.


Never going to happen... period. Aside from the cost, clear plastic is very brittle and difficult to work with. And I dont think that area lights up anyway (not that it is a bad idea to light it). But, you will be on your own, I am sure.


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## SUNGOD

djnick66 said:


> Never going to happen... period. Aside from the cost, clear plastic is very brittle and difficult to work with. And I dont think that area lights up anyway (not that it is a bad idea to light it). But, you will be on your own, I am sure.




Maybe that's all true but looking at the layout of the parts...............


http://modelingmadness.com/scott/misc/scifi/ufopreview.htm


the underside looks like it's a separate piece and wouldn't it not be impossible to just mould that piece in clear? It's not exactly a delicate part so I can't see how it would be that brittle even if clear plastic is more brittle than non clear. I've seen bigger parts moulded in clear than that. I also can't see how that part being moulded in clear would be difficult to work with as it's strong once in place and not exactly hard to glue.


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## Mark McGovern

Yes, the lower saucer half could be molded in clear. The circular center glowed orange in the series. It pulsed slowly at a different rate than the five outer hemispheres, which glowed blue. Somebody put out an Invaders UFO light kit for this model awhile back, perhaps they'll reissue it in light of the Atlantis repop.

BTW, CultTVman had a nice display at WonderFest many years ago. He cut out the eight rectangles of the upper hull and closed them off with clear plastic. Then he placed a spare 1/48 scale fusion core light set for Polar Light's _Jupiter II_ inside the model and got an effect very like the TV series miniature.


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## djnick66

SUNGOD said:


> Maybe that's all true but looking at the layout of the parts...............
> 
> 
> http://modelingmadness.com/scott/misc/scifi/ufopreview.htm
> 
> 
> the underside looks like it's a separate piece and wouldn't it not be impossible to just mould that piece in clear? It's not exactly a delicate part so I can't see how it would be that brittle even if clear plastic is more brittle than non clear. I've seen bigger parts moulded in clear than that. I also can't see how that part being moulded in clear would be difficult to work with as it's strong once in place and not exactly hard to glue.


I suppose they "could" do it, but I don't see it happening. But yeah, it is brittle and big parts can shatter just as easily as small ones. That was always a big issue with the rarely or never reissued Phantom Huey, Phantom B-17 etc. 

A bigger issue anyway is that, I think, the kit has the wrong number of domes on the bottom and landing gear legs. Not that it really matters much. It's still quite a nice kit for what it was.


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## RMC

there has always been 5 legs and 5 domes on the kit :dude:


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## Mark McGovern

djnick66 said:


> A bigger issue anyway is that, I think, the kit has the wrong number of domes on the bottom and landing gear legs. Not that it really matters much.


Eh? There were indeed five domes and legs on the TV miniature.


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## BWolfe

It would be easy enough to cut out that center part and replace it with a clear piece. That area should be a smooth surface anyway, the original studio model has just a frosted clear piece there. 
It always bugged me that the reason Aurora gave for not releasing a model of the Jupiter 2 was that it was too plain looking, yet they did release a kit of this very plain looking saucer.


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## xsavoie

First of all, they could reverse engineer that kit and make it in 1/48 scale at the same time.They could basically also do the bottom part, but with a hollow center part and make the central circular reactor part in a transparent plastic with an extra top lip in order to make it a simple drop part. I think that the top part of the saucer should be transparent, but be more precise. Unless I am mistaken the window slits are not supposed to be outward, but rather are just inside the saucer top part. If you ask me, to issue the Invaders Saucer exactly as the Aurora issue is not taking advantage of the opportunity to make it right once and for all. Of course releasing it with the original Aurora box art would be great.


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## Mark McGovern

xsavoie said:


> ...Unless I am mistaken the window slits are not supposed to be outward, but rather are just inside the saucer top part...


Ex,

Compared to the filming miniature, I think you're right:








The raised windows are easier to paint, I think. For accuracy's sake they could be removed, I suppose, and backed with sheet styrene. But until somebody _does_ make an accurate Invaders UFO (in whatever scale), the Aurora kit in any iteration is the only game in town.


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## djnick66

Mark McGovern said:


> Eh? There were indeed five domes and legs on the TV miniature.


Cool. I thought there was an issue wtih the domes or legs or something... maybe its where the ladder is or how they position. I haven't built one of these since about 1975


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## djnick66

xsavoie said:


> First of all, they could reverse engineer that kit and make it in 1/48 scale at the same time.They could basically also do the bottom part, but with a hollow center part and make the central circular reactor part in a transparent plastic with an extra top lip in order to make it a simple drop part. I think that the top part of the saucer should be transparent, but be more precise. Unless I am mistaken the window slits are not supposed to be outward, but rather are just inside the saucer top part. If you ask me, to issue the Invaders Saucer exactly as the Aurora issue is not taking advantage of the opportunity to make it right once and for all. Of course releasing it with the original Aurora box art would be great.


Somehow I think Atlantis is reissuing the Aurora kit as is and not making an all new kit has to do with cost. Most likely, since Revell owns the molds, they will just do a run of the kits for Atlantis, in whatever color Atlantis wants. And Atlantis will box the kits up appropriately. It's a good idea really... Although the Monogram reissues are still somewhat common compared to the Flying Sub. I always liked the Invaders kit and will get one of the new ones.


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## SUNGOD

djnick66 said:


> I suppose they "could" do it, but I don't see it happening. But yeah, it is brittle and big parts can shatter just as easily as small ones. That was always a big issue with the rarely or never reissued Phantom Huey, Phantom B-17 etc.
> 
> A bigger issue anyway is that, I think, the kit has the wrong number of domes on the bottom and landing gear legs. Not that it really matters much. It's still quite a nice kit for what it was.




I don't think it would matter too much even if it was brittle as once the part's stuck in place it's enclosed and then stronger once glued. I might be wrong but I don't think clear plastic's quite as brittle as it used to be anyway.

Again because it's protected by the surrounding saucer structure I don't think it matters anyway.


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## SUNGOD

xsavoie said:


> First of all, they could reverse engineer that kit and make it in 1/48 scale at the same time.They could basically also do the bottom part, but with a hollow center part and make the central circular reactor part in a transparent plastic with an extra top lip in order to make it a simple drop part. I think that the top part of the saucer should be transparent, but be more precise. Unless I am mistaken the window slits are not supposed to be outward, but rather are just inside the saucer top part. If you ask me, to issue the Invaders Saucer exactly as the Aurora issue is not taking advantage of the opportunity to make it right once and for all. Of course releasing it with the original Aurora box art would be great.




That'll be like tooling a new kit up. I doubt Atlantis would do that as the original kit (although with 1 or 2 inaccuracies) is not a bad representation.


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## SUNGOD

Mark McGovern said:


> Yes, the lower saucer half could be molded in clear. The circular center glowed orange in the series. It pulsed slowly at a different rate than the five outer hemispheres, which glowed blue. Somebody put out an Invaders UFO light kit for this model awhile back, perhaps they'll reissue it in light of the Atlantis repop.
> 
> BTW, CultTVman had a nice display at WonderFest many years ago. He cut out the eight rectangles of the upper hull and closed them off with clear plastic. Then he placed a spare 1/48 scale fusion core light set for Polar Light's _Jupiter II_ inside the model and got an effect very like the TV series miniature.




Sounds interesting but whether there'll be a lighting kit with this obviously only Atlantis knows. From the sounds of it Atlantis's lighting kits are easy to use and that sounds great as I'm useless at soldering things and doing lighting. I just want something that can be used instantly so I don't have to fiddle about with lighting.

Maybe Atlantis could do the underneath as orangle clear plastic and the globes in clear blue plastic?


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## Mark McGovern

djnick66 said:


> ... maybe its where the ladder is or how they position. I haven't built one of these since about 1975


As I recall, the instructions have you place the landing leg with the ladder in the front of the saucer - that is, below the front "window". But in the 2nd season episode, "The Saucer", the ladders were located on the UFO's starboard side (again assuming the window is in the front). The window, BTW, was never seen externally; it only showed up when viewed from within the control room.



SUNGOD said:


> Sounds interesting but whether there'll be a lighting kit with this obviously only Atlantis knows.


I doubt there'll be any lighting kits with the model, S.G. Voodoo FX makes one; here's a link to the page with the kit (scroll down a ways). It does say that some assembly is required. Maybe the renewed interest will inspire somebody else to come up with an easier light kit?

Oh, and TSDS has this nifty decal set for the saucer interior.


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## djnick66

I highly recommend the TSDS decals for any of the old Aurora kits... Spindrift, UFO, Flying Sub... They take a little planning since they are not white-backed and are translucent, but the end result is well worth the effort to apply them.


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## thepixelpusher

Mark McGovern said:


> While the exterior is a little off, the control room portion of the interior is a fairly accurate representation of the UFO interior set.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but I've always thought it could be replaced by one of those reflective orange disks they make for automotive applications.


The interior in the model is accurate to the 1st season set. You show the 2nd season redressed interior.

It's funny but the original studio model did not have that diamond reflector pattern on the underside core. It was just smooth. Aurora took liberties with the design.


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## thepixelpusher

xsavoie said:


> First of all, they could reverse engineer that kit and make it in 1/48 scale at the same time.They could basically also do the bottom part, but with a hollow center part and make the central circular reactor part in a transparent plastic with an extra top lip in order to make it a simple drop part. I think that the top part of the saucer should be transparent, but be more precise. Unless I am mistaken the window slits are not supposed to be outward, but rather are just inside the saucer top part. If you ask me, to issue the Invaders Saucer exactly as the Aurora issue is not taking advantage of the opportunity to make it right once and for all. Of course releasing it with the original Aurora box art would be great.


Though I'm glad to see the kit once more, I wish they would have fixed things too. There needs to be more energy ports around the top rim (and clear too and not stick out), the bottom engine core should be transparent and smooth. The 5 underside globes should hang down farther and not have a straight edge on the sides, etc.

Also, I was more a fan of the revised Monogram artwork where the saucer dusts up the ground. That artwork was similar to the studio concept artwork done for the show by Darrell Anderson. Darell and his brother Howard A. Anderson did the FX for the TV show (saucer shots, alien disintegration, rejuvenation chambers skeletal effects, etc.).


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## Mark McGovern

djnick66 said:


> I highly recommend the TSDS decals for any of the old Aurora kits... Spindrift, UFO, Flying Sub... They take a little planning since they are not white-backed and are translucent, but the end result is well worth the effort to apply them.


Amen, brother! A little gloss white where the "lit" portions of the design will go is all it takes to make the decals pop.



thepixelpusher said:


> The interior in the model is accurate to the 1st season set. You show the 2nd season redressed interior


TPP,

I don't think the control room set changed all that much between the first and second seasons. Here's a still from the first season episode, "The Innocent"; although Michael Rennie is blocking much of our view, it appears to me that instruments we _can_ see are very much like those that appear in the "The Saucer" still. Certainly the overall layout of both control rooms is the same.








In your list of inaccuracies, you omitted to mention that the proportions of the saucer's exterior are _way_ off. I'm sure it would be much easier for a manufacturer to tool a whole new kit rather than try to fix the Aurora saucer. But I agree with those who have posted that this model does build into a nifty little UFO, warts and all.


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## djnick66

Im sure Atlantis does not have the original mold at their disposal to alter either... they will just buy bagged kits run by Revell.


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## thepixelpusher

Mark McGovern said:


> Amen, brother! A little gloss white where the "lit" portions of the design will go is all it takes to make the decals pop.
> 
> TPP,
> 
> I don't think the control room set changed all that much between the first and second seasons. Here's a still from the first season episode, "The Innocent"; although Michael Rennie is blocking much of our view, it appears to me that instruments we _can_ see are very much like those that appear in the "The Saucer" still. Certainly the overall layout of both control rooms is the same.




Take a close look at the 2nd season interior shot above. The set redress includes many more buttons and the added upper disk tray and reworked console in front of the chair. The 2nd season interior has way more gadgets on the walls and console. I have a friend who has parts from the main console of the 1st season. It was redressed quite a bit because they were planning on the series going for more than the 2nd season. Sadly, it didn't.


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## thepixelpusher

djnick66 said:


> Im sure Atlantis does not have the original mold at their disposal to alter either... they will just buy bagged kits run by Revell.


There was a story that the saucer molds were destroyed in a train wreck years back. I wonder if that was true. If they redid molds off a plastic part, we should see less clear lines and detail. I'll buy some of these new kits too and compare it. Could be the train story was not true.


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## Atlantis1

This kit is made from the original Aurora Tooling.


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## Mark McGovern

thepixelpusher said:


> The set redress includes many more buttons and the added upper disk tray and reworked console in front of the chair.


I wouldn't want to use the photo from "The Innocents" as evidence in a trial, but I don't know anybody who has any artifacts from the series, so I'll cede your point about the Aurora interior being based on the season two saucer set.

Actually, I think Aurora missed the boat: in the season two episode "Dark Outpost", quite a bit more of the saucer's interior was revealed. David Vincent, having been carried aboard in an empty crate, wanders around a couple of rooms. With reference to the Aurora interior, he appears to move from the "store room" into the "engineering room", before he collapses as the ship lifts off and accelerates (at 8:00 in the episode). But the interior, as you know, ended up being quite simplified.

Atlantis1, thanks for the clarification!


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## Mark McGovern

TPP,

Okay, I just viewed "The Innocent" on YouTube. The saucer interior sequence appears about 19:00 into the episode. You were right, the instrumentation of the control room was much more elaborate in the second season than the first.


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## djnick66

thepixelpusher said:


> There was a story that the saucer molds were destroyed in a train wreck years back. I wonder if that was true. If they redid molds off a plastic part, we should see less clear lines and detail. I'll buy some of these new kits too and compare it. Could be the train story was not true.


The train wreck story has grown to legendary proportions... in reality, only a few molds were damaged; ie the WW1 two seater aircraft like the Albatros and Bristol Fighter.

Obviously the original molds for the UFO survived because Monogram reissued the kit shortly after acquiring the Aurora molds in the 70s, again and two or three times since then, including an issue from Japan. The kit was last out about 10 years ago, IIRC.


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## Buc

everything you wanted to know ... good place to start:
http://home.earthlink.net/~peredhil/Invaders.html


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## thepixelpusher

Yes, you'll see the photo of the studio model I gave him on the 2nd page along with the background on the model. I've since gotten more photos of the studio saucer. Some preproduction photos of them making it and others that haven't been published.

Tom


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## SUNGOD

I actually picked up a mint boxed Aurora first issue of this kit (with the clear top) on Ebay a few years ago. It was in almost like new condition and I had it dirt cheap. 

I've seen it go for over £150/$260 but I had it for about £26. Couldn't believe it when no one else bid on it as I saw one auction with 20 people bidding. The globes bizarrely though aren't moulded in clear........just metallic grey styrene.


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## djnick66

Yeah the globes were opaque in the first kit. It wasn't until I think Tsukuda or Monogram that they appeared in Clear.


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## SUNGOD

Yes I picked up the Tsukuda version years ago and it has clear red globes. I masked off the windows on the clear Aurora lid and added it to the Tsukuda kit so both the windows and globes are transparent..............which makes a big difference.


Ironically the Tsukuda version cost me more than the original Aurora version.


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## Krel

SUNGOD said:


> Ironically the Tsukuda version cost me more than the original Aurora version.


Import fees.

David.


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## djnick66

The Tsukuda kits were done in the days before the internet and they were really intended for Japanese market sales only. Back then (and today) a few of the Japanese companies rebox American (and other) kits largely for the home market. I recall someone spending hundreds of dollars on a 1/48 Hasegawa B-17 kit some years back, only to find out it was the old Monogram kit in a Japanese market box. The Tsukuda issues of the old Aurora kits were around the same time as the Monogram reissues in the US, so there was no reason to sell them here.


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## thepixelpusher

We need to get someone to do a larger model kit. If we could do that I'd give them my photo reference of the studio model.


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## thepixelpusher

Atlantis1 said:


> This kit is made from the original Aurora Tooling.


So what parts on this are clear? Or translucent colored parts?


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## SUNGOD

thepixelpusher said:


> We need to get someone to do a larger model kit. If we could do that I'd give them my photo reference of the studio model.




Maybe in the future one day there'll be a larger kit but give them a chance to get this out first pixel. It's a nice kit that many are glad to see reissued hopefully with more clear parts.


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## thepixelpusher

Yes, I'm glad someone finally realized how loved this model is.

It looks like the release info on MegaHobby says the interior is clear. It should be easy to use little drops of some removable rubber to cover the dials and buttons and then paint them with translucent paint colors and put a led behind the panels.

I can't wait to see who comes out with a lighting kit for this that is more accurate then the past ones.


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## SUNGOD

thepixelpusher said:


> Yes, I'm glad someone finally realized how loved this model is.
> 
> It looks like the release info on MegaHobby says the interior is clear. It should be easy to use little drops of some removable rubber to cover the dials and buttons and then paint them with translucent paint colors and put a led behind the panels.
> 
> I can't wait to see who comes out with a lighting kit for this that is more accurate then the past ones.




Funnily enough I was thinking a while back that it might be a good idea to do a few interior parts in clear so any screens, dials and buttons could be masked off and the surround painted but it wouldn't be the first time a mistake in wording might have been made before a new model is out. Maybe it should read "the interior is visible through transparent lid"? We'll have to wait and see what Atlantis has planned.


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## djnick66

Somehow I think its a typo on the Mega web site

It says this: "The kit is molded in silver with a clear, detailed interior"

I suspect it should be "The kit is molded in silver and clear, with a detailed interior" but I could be wrong.


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## SUNGOD

Krel said:


> Import fees.
> 
> David.




Yes but the whole point is I got an old rare original Aurora kit for a dirt cheap price. The Tsukuda kit didn't cost me a huge amount (around £48) seeing that wasn't exactly widely available but it's still a lot easier to come by than an original Aurora first issue.


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## SUNGOD

djnick66 said:


> Somehow I think its a typo on the Mega web site
> 
> It says this: "The kit is molded in silver with a clear, detailed interior"
> 
> I suspect it should be "The kit is molded in silver and clear, with a detailed interior" but I could be wrong.




Could be. I really hope Atlantis does more clear parts than previous releases though as reissues without many clear parts are fairly easy to come by.

More clear parts would set this release apart from the others. I've already got 3 kits so it would have to be different for me to pick another one up.


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## djnick66

I just dont see molding large n umbers of parts in clear for the 3 people that might try to light the panels up.


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## thepixelpusher

I'd be happy if they just included the clear extra lid like the original, and of course clear domes instead of the solid plastic domes on the original.


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## djnick66

Im pretty sure that is what you will get


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## thepixelpusher

SUNGOD said:


> Yes but the whole point is I got an old rare original Aurora kit for a dirt cheap price. The Tsukuda kit didn't cost me a huge amount (around £48) seeing that wasn't exactly widely available but it's still a lot easier to come by than an original Aurora first issue.


The existing Aurora first issues are flooding into eBay in advance of the release of this kit. It tickles me that I'll be able to get it new for under $40 USD.


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## mcdougall

thepixelpusher said:


> The existing Aurora first issues are flooding into eBay in advance of the release of this kit. It tickles me that I'll be able to get it new for under $40 USD.


Good...I'll pick up an Original Aurora at a Great price:thumbsup:
Mcdee


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## John P

djnick66 said:


> The train wreck story has grown to legendary proportions... in reality, only a few molds were damaged; ie the WW1 two seater aircraft like the Albatros and Bristol Fighter.
> 
> Obviously the original molds for the UFO survived because Monogram reissued the kit shortly after acquiring the Aurora molds in the 70s, again and two or three times since then, including an issue from Japan. The kit was last out about 10 years ago, IIRC.


I think I have about three of that last issue.


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## John P

SUNGOD said:


> Ironically the Tsukuda version cost me more than the original Aurora version.


When Tsukuda released the flying sub, I got all excited and ordered two from Hobby Link Japan, at $36 each plus shipping. They were the Aurora kit, molded in the US by Monogram, shipped to Japan, packaged by Tsukuda, then bought by me and shipped back to the US. I figure it was revenge for the Japanese planes my dad shot down.

It wasn't long after that Monogram re-released the kit in the US and I could buy them at HiWay Hobby for $14.95. :freak:


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## Mark McGovern

Youch. Live and learn...


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## Krel

John P said:


> When Tsukuda released the flying sub, I got all excited and ordered two from Hobby Link Japan, at $36 each plus shipping. They were the Aurora kit, molded in the US by Monogram, shipped to Japan, packaged by Tsukuda, then bought by me and shipped back to the US. I figure it was revenge for the Japanese planes my dad shot down.
> 
> It wasn't long after that Monogram re-released the kit in the US and I could buy them at HiWay Hobby for $14.95. :freak:


The one I bought at the hobby shop had all of the copyright information molded ON TOP of the flight deck, rather then on the underside of the deck. Lots of sanding ensued. :lol:

David.


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## SUNGOD

John P said:


> When Tsukuda released the flying sub, I got all excited and ordered two from Hobby Link Japan, at $36 each plus shipping. They were the Aurora kit, molded in the US by Monogram, shipped to Japan, packaged by Tsukuda, then bought by me and shipped back to the US. I figure it was revenge for the Japanese planes my dad shot down.
> 
> It wasn't long after that Monogram re-released the kit in the US and I could buy them at HiWay Hobby for $14.95. :freak:




That's just typical. What plane was your father flying anyway?


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## scotpens

SUNGOD said:


> That's just typical. What plane was your father flying anyway?


You can find all that and more on John's website.


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## Cro-Magnon Man

Has anyone mentioned crew figures?! When I got the Monogram reissue in about 1994 (transparent red domes, no transparent lid), it came with four figures. Since the partial copy of the instructions shown in an Aurora book of the time also showed only four crew figures, I assumed this was the complete crew.
But an article here on the 'net shows that the first Aurora issue had seven figures, and the second Aurora issue had no less than eleven crew. If Revell bags the kit for the Atlantis issue from the most recent reissue (1994-ish) how many crew figures will be in the kit? The article: home.earthlink.net/~peredhill/*Invaders*.html


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## djnick66

Most/all issues after the Aurora ones have had the four intended figures and not any from the Dick Tracy Space Coupe.


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## John P

SUNGOD said:


> That's just typical. What plane was your father flying anyway?


P-47s. He was a Jug Jockey.


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## SUNGOD

John P said:


> P-47s. He was a Jug Jockey.




Cool! I love Thunderbolts and Hasegawa's 1/32 kit is waiting for me up the attic. I'll have a look at your website.


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## SUNGOD

Cro-Magnon Man said:


> Has anyone mentioned crew figures?! When I got the Monogram reissue in about 1994 (transparent red domes, no transparent lid), it came with four figures. Since the partial copy of the instructions shown in an Aurora book of the time also showed only four crew figures, I assumed this was the complete crew.
> But an article here on the 'net shows that the first Aurora issue had seven figures, and the second Aurora issue had no less than eleven crew. If Revell bags the kit for the Atlantis issue from the most recent reissue (1994-ish) how many crew figures will be in the kit? The article: home.earthlink.net/~peredhill/*Invaders*.html




Mine's got the 7 figures so that's correct about the 1st issue.


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## Atlantis1

Clear parts will be the bottom domes, I have requested they mold the top clear as well which mean the landing Gear will be clear as it is on the same sprue. Not sure what exactly we will get. There was a separate mold for the clear dome but that no longer exists, it was lost or destroyed when the purchase of aurora was done by Monogram in 1979. So if the top comes in clear so will the gear!


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## Atlantis1

It also has the 4 crew figs


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## Mark McGovern

Atlantis1 said:


> So if the top comes in clear so will the gear!


Big whoop - that's what they make paint for! I'm just happy to see the kit reissued. :thumbsup:


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## SprueUS

Heck...I wouldn't mind seeing the whole thing molded in clear!


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## scooke123

I can handle clear landing gear- I want a clear top for sure if possible!! That's how I remember the one I built as a kid. It was the original with clear top - I have built later issues since but they just don't have the same feel to me. Even if it is a little more cost-wise for the clear it would be worth it, at least to me anyway.
Steve


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## retheridge

Here's my build from a few years ago using the Monogram model and the Voodoo FX lighting kit.








[/url][/IMG]

Well, ok, the photo seems to not be posting. It is in the albums at the top of the page under "retheridge"


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## MightyMax

Another kit in my collection rendered uncollectible!

What was I thinking when I started collecting kits?

Good for Atlantis

Max Bryant


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## Mark McGovern

Reth',

Nice job!


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## thepixelpusher

It's too bad the Aurora kit has too few energy ports along the top edge. I'm going to be casting a new clear lid for myself along with the prop number of windows.


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## fortress

djnick66 said:


> Somehow I think Atlantis is reissuing the Aurora kit as is and not making an all new kit has to do with cost. Most likely, since Revell owns the molds, they will just do a run of the kits for Atlantis, in whatever color Atlantis wants. And Atlantis will box the kits up appropriately. It's a good idea really... Although the Monogram reissues are still somewhat common compared to the Flying Sub. I always liked the Invaders kit and will get one of the new ones.


I wonder whether they are going to do the re-issued 1975 version
or the original, I loved the original box artwork and the clear top
for the cockpit but the 75 version had more figures and a cool base.

Wish we could have both but heck I am just glad they are doing it!

fortress:thumbsup:


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## djnick66

Supposedly the mold for the clear top is lost (as per the second thread on the kit) so there will be no clear top.

The added base and figures were from the Aurora Dick Tracy Space Coupe. I doub't Revell has the molds for those items, but you could source them from the Polar Lights reissue. It's not like the saucer really fit that base.


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## retheridge

Yeah, That's the photo I was trying to put up, Thanks Mark!


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## Mark McGovern

thepixelpusher said:


> I'm going to be casting a new clear lid for myself along with the prop number of windows.


Hah? Eight on the model and eight (as far as I can tell) on the TV miniature.


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## thepixelpusher

Well, technically yes it is 8 energy ports on the Aurora model. The Aurora model is off on the space between the energy ports by about 1.5x more space. The bottom image does have some wide angle bulge, but I accounted for that and it's about 1.5x more space between. In the picture it looks like 2x more.

The sides of the top above the lined midsection on the studio model are also more angled, and the model is more straight up and down. No way to fix that though.

Shame on me for saying windows, they are energy ports and NOT windows along the top.










BTW, great model work Mark! Your website has some great stuff.


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## John P

My Subaru has different wheels than my neighbor's Subaru.
I figure there were thousands of those saucers. My model doesn't have to be of the exact ones we saw on the show.


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## Mark McGovern

TheP.P.,

Thank you for your kind words about my web site; I aim to please.

Those eight rectangles on the saucer may be windows, energy ports, whichever - why should we care? The producers of _The Invaders_ didn't, any more than Irwin Allen worried about the spatial relations between the inside and the outside of the _Jupiter II_, _Spindrift_, etc. Obsessing about this stuff is the job of us fanboys. :dude:

I took a few measurements of the saucer kit I have in my stash, and would like to pass along a few modeling suggestions:


For those of you who want to upgrade your saucer without the use of electricity, the center "propulsion ring" is 2 11/16" in diameter. A quick web search didn't find exactly that diameter, but there's some leeway. The figure I've given includes the outside trim ring, which could be widened to house a slightly smaller diameter reflector.
The kit-supplied domes are 11/16" in diameter. Compared to the series effects miniature, the kit domes are a little small and don't have the true semicircular profiles. There are 18mm clear acrylic cabochons (i.e., hemispheres), made for crafters, which will make dandy replacements. They will *not* fit through the holes in the landing gear; however, they'll look just fine if you are planning to cement the gear legs either up or down.
In the episode "Dark Outpost"*, David Vincent is carried aboard a saucer in a box and apparently set down in a compartment that corresponds to the UFO model's "store room" (the details of which are clearly shown in "The Saucer"**). He moves aft, toward what the instructions call the "engineering room". This room is partitioned into several other chambers. But then, as Mr. Payne noted, there must have been many saucers and probably many different interior layouts.
Still, a builder could have fun making the alterations with the kit, but he'd probably need two: one with the accurized interior, the second to provide extra structures for the first. Of course, gutting the second model would naturally be a consequence of lighting it, _nest-Ce pas_?
Don't be led astray by Haggerty and Rogers' book, _The Saucer Fleet_. They did a fine job with the other spacecraft in the book, but really fell down in their discussion of _The Invaders_ UFO. For instance, there's no mention of the blue disk on top of the saucer or the blue ring underneath.
*See for yourself; the saucer interior sequence begins about 6:00 in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lww_HOdIjc

**The "store room" interior appears at about 15:00 in this video (also has the best view of the control room): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ln23i03TVQM


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## thepixelpusher

There is no blue ring on top and underneath the saucer.

The studio model was light grey, but through multiple effects compositing it shifted the overall color towards a bluish tint. Look at the old Star Trek special effects and you'll see that the Enterprise looks bluish in the effects shots too when it's clearly not blue on the real model. If you are going for true color, there is no blue on the saucer. If you are going for what was shown on TV, it's all over the map as far as color goes.

Probably the best composited effects shot appeared in one of the last episodes "The Peacemaker". The underside globes are actually clear domes with a translucent frosted finish with a colored bulb inside. The underside engine is also clear frosted and has red lights inside it. There is also no texture pattern on the underside circular engine. Not sure why Aurora did that, but they did other modifications that don't match the show too.

The Peacemaker Episode Effects Shot (note they used red studio lights under the saucer and the middle engine has red light inside it.)










Don't think of it as obsessive or fan boyish to have an accurate model. I have seen the original saucer model, talked to the original model maker (from the now closed "Productions Model Shop" who also did the Star Trek Enterprise) and seen the pictures of it's making that are not in public and there is no blue ring underneath or on top. That dark underside lip you see in the effects shots is just shadowing. They focused a red studio light on the underside middle (which has it's own internal red lights behind a clear frosted underside engine) and left the underside lip largely unlit except from spill lighting in some shots.

Here's another effects shot from that show. Note this shot used a wider angle lens that distorts the shape, and the lights on it are brighter than normal so that it looks silver, but that's just the over bright studio spotlights on the surface showing up. See, no dark ring on the underside. Also, you see the frosted domes better here too.










Another shot from the TV show intro. No dark underside ring. Also, see that the colors are all over the map from each of the effects shots. It wasn't digital back then, so things were whatever they were with the little budget it was done with.










If you look on the 2nd page of the website on the history of the Aurora Invaders Saucer model you'll see a photo I gave him to share (see below). I got it from an 80's sci-fi convention, I think from Chariot Productions photo dealer. If anyone knows more about the origin of that photo please PM me here. That photo energized me to find out more about the studio model starting my journey to the answers I eventually found and shared here.


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## Mark McGovern

Okay, I'll cede the blue ring underneath the saucer; I got led astray by Haggerty & Rogers. But I stand by the marking on top of the saucer:








And BTW, I don't mean "obsessing" in a bad way - I do it all the time myself!


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## thepixelpusher

I understand that the effects were composited bad enough that stuff showed up off-color on the studio model effects with some irregular shadows (that blob on saucer top in an effects shot), over bright light highlights (white spots on the model that make it look silver or reflective) or ragged matte line fringing. And maybe people want to make what they remember, not what it actually was and that is totally cool. :thumbsup: No right or wrong answers as to what you want to do with your model. I'm just offering what I found out and know about the original filming model and I'm passing it along to those that want to do an accurate build to the original studio model.

The dark blob on the saucer top you see in that FX shot is the shadow of the wire rig that held the saucer. The shadow on the saucer wasn't that dark during the plate filming, but the second generation compositing back then bumped up the contrast.

Look at the last shot I posted of the studio model. That was taken in studio where it was filmed. The model has the lights on and is ready for filming. See the wires coming off the top? There was a metal rig that those were attached to. That is the source of the shadow and the uneven lighting on the top that ends up making a dark irregular blob in the final composite. This is what I found out, I'm not guessing.

But, make a blue dot if you like it that way. That's cool too. 

There was one bad composite that was used in several episodes that had such bad shadows running across the saucer that it looked a bit like camouflage (see below). That might be fun to do a desert camouflage version too. It'd look like those Nazi UFO saucers.


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## djnick66

Im pretty sure the so called blue dot is a shadow, artifact of the effect construction etc. It also makes no sense given the very clean, spartan, finish of the saucer.


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## Mark McGovern

p.p. & dj.,

We'll see; I like the blue dot, not matter how it got there. I've always thought that smooth, flat finishes only make a miniature look, well, miniature. Gino Dykstra wrote a superb article in an early issue of _FineScale Modeler_ in which he painted a "cloud" pattern on an AMT Klingon Battlecruiser to give the impression of great size.

The idea was that the hull of a large ship wouldn't be evenly lit. So he lightened the hull color slightly with white and sprayed irregular patches over the hull. It looked pretty effective in the magazine. I think the last picture pixelpusher posted (yoicks! say *that* three times real fast!) bears this idea out.


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## djnick66

I found another still from the same scene with the so called blue dot, but with the people in a different position and maybe from a slightoy differnt angle and there is no dot, just an irregular shadow


----------



## thepixelpusher

Mark, I agree on the detail paint job. I intend to do some dry brushing on my saucer to add some light detail. Kind of like the saucers in Mars Attacks (even though the paint was a texture on a CGI model). The dry brush light detailing will give it a sense of scale and of use. Like it entered the atmosphere multiple times and has some outer surface hull wear. The studio model was just an even paint job, but that would be too boring.


----------



## SUNGOD

thepixelpusher said:


> There is no blue ring on top and underneath the saucer.
> 
> The studio model was light grey, but through multiple effects compositing it shifted the overall color towards a bluish tint. Look at the old Star Trek special effects and you'll see that the Enterprise looks bluish in the effects shots too when it's clearly not blue on the real model. If you are going for true color, there is no blue on the saucer. If you are going for what was shown on TV, it's all over the map as far as color goes.
> 
> Probably the best composited effects shot appeared in one of the last episodes "The Peacemaker". The underside globes are actually clear domes with a translucent frosted finish with a colored bulb inside. The underside engine is also clear frosted and has red lights inside it. There is also no texture pattern on the underside circular engine. Not sure why Aurora did that, but they did other modifications that don't match the show too.
> 
> The Peacemaker Episode Effects Shot (note they used red studio lights under the saucer and the middle engine has red light inside it.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't think of it as obsessive or fan boyish to have an accurate model. I have seen the original saucer model, talked to the original model maker (from the now closed "Productions Model Shop" who also did the Star Trek Enterprise) and seen the pictures of it's making that are not in public and there is no blue ring underneath or on top. That dark underside lip you see in the effects shots is just shadowing. They focused a red studio light on the underside middle (which has it's own internal red lights behind a clear frosted underside engine) and left the underside lip largely unlit except from spill lighting in some shots.
> 
> Here's another effects shot from that show. Note this shot used a wider angle lens that distorts the shape, and the lights on it are brighter than normal so that it looks silver, but that's just the over bright studio spotlights on the surface showing up. See, no dark ring on the underside. Also, you see the frosted domes better here too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another shot from the TV show intro. No dark underside ring. Also, see that the colors are all over the map from each of the effects shots. It wasn't digital back then, so things were whatever they were with the little budget it was done with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look on the 2nd page of the website on the history of the Aurora Invaders Saucer model you'll see a photo I gave him to share (see below). I got it from an 80's sci-fi convention, I think from Chariot Productions photo dealer. If anyone knows more about the origin of that photo please PM me here. That photo energized me to find out more about the studio model starting my journey to the answers I eventually found and shared here.




I've painted mine silver but it should really be light grey....maybe with a blueish tint?


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## Mark McGovern

S.G.,

The full-scale landing legs look like flat silver to me. But bluish tint seemed apparent in all shots of the saucer on screen, as pixelpusher's photos show. We've all seen the many, many discussions about the "true" color of the TOS _Enterprise_ miniature's hull versus its screen appearance, so I say: paint your model to look the way you want.

As for me, I'm gonna paint the blue dot on top of my saucer and, since there's no step beneath the outer edge of the underside of the model, the blue ring as well.


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## thepixelpusher

It'd be cool if people post pics of their builds here.


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## Mark McGovern

Maybe Atlantis' reissue of Aurora's 1/72 scale model of the UFO from _The Invaders_ could be the subject of a long-overdue Cabin Fever Contest or Community Build?

Hah?


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## thepixelpusher

Mark, yes the full size set legs were a flat silver. The studio model was a grey and not silver color because it was typical to avoid using reflective paints on studio models that would be composited. Back then compositing was poorly done and they didn't want to battle the image of a model dropping out in spots due to reflections of the background or spill of blue screen color onto the model. Their matte process was hard enough already. But since the full size set leg wouldn't be photographed against blue screen they chose the silver color for the legs and the interior of the full size sets.


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## Mark McGovern

Okay, I just spent the better part of an hour on YouTube, playing and pausing the "Dark Outpost" episode. As with so many other TV Science Fiction vehicles, there is a _huge_ discrepancy between what could be contained within the saucer and its exterior (I'm not a Dr. Who fan, but the series has neatly solved this issue with the Tardis). In the sequence where David Vincent wanders around the saucer, he:


Exits the "Store Room" (per the Aurora/Monogram/Atlantis instructions) through the aft door; this would take him into the model's "Engineering Room".
He enters a second chamber and turns right, moving into a third one.
This is a small room; he's forced to turn left.
Now he's in a short corridor. He proceeds through two doors into a somewhat larger chamber.
Ahead he see yet another door, which is set in a wall set at an angle. A wall nearby on his right is also pierced by a door. He goes through this one.
This might be another corridor; there are more angled walls and two more doors. A couple of Invaders approach, so Vincent reaches behind him to open yet another door.
This admit him to a small room, in which he is knocked to the floor by the acceleration of the saucer as it takes off.
I suppose it would be possible for an accuracy nut to extend all this labyrinth around the UFO model's interior, building extra walls through the "Engineering Room" and into the "Communications Room". But for the sake of accuracy, that nut would wind up with a rabbit warren of little passages and rooms with no apparent function. No wonder Aurora simplified the interior! I think the designers came up with a pretty good compromise between what was shown in the series and what could reasonably be incorporated in a plastic model kit.


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## Richard Baker

I think the only way you could get a 'show' interior to fit would be a scale change.
The simplified Aurora interior I never cared much for- too much wasted space for even a small local transport craft. 
With this new issue I am looking forward to seeing what people come up with for their builds


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## Mark McGovern

Richard Baker said:


> I think the only way you could get a 'show' interior to fit would be a scale change.


R.B.,

Actually this is more of a "How'd they fit the lower levels into the _Jupiter II_?" issue. I sketched out Vincent's path as he wandered through the spaceship over a diagram of the model saucer's interior. My sketch wasn't super accurate - I just eyeballed the various rooms and corridors as they related to Roy Thinnes on the set and then translated them to the model diagram.

Even allowing for the crudity of my sketch, it was clear that the interior as seen in "Dark Outpost" would go right out the back of the saucer and extend about as far as the outer rim. In short, the designer of the interior set paid little heed to the measurements of the saucer. In the production's defense, I will say that probably those measurements weren't considered a huge priority - all the sets and effects miniatures had to do were look good.

These problems only arise when we model builders try to recreate that which we'd seen on TV and, like you, Richard, I'll be interested to see how the builders of this new release of the kit overcome them.


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## djnick66

Star Trek is no different... the Enterprise is pretty big but the hallways are always small and then there is the issue about the orientation of the bridge versus the elevator on the full size set. At least with Dr. Who they came up with a plot contrivance to explain why the TARDIS is bigger on the inside than the outside, and why the interior can change randomly.


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## thepixelpusher

I would think they have a ray gun weapons locker somewhere on the saucer. Maybe lower section.

Speaking of ray gun weapons…just got this today.



















It's the 1st version of the smaller metal gun they used in the series. You see it the episode "The Enemy" with Richard Anderson of "Bionic Man" fame. BTW, the smaller ray gun was custom built aluminum and not made off of a toy gun metal handle as some have suggested. This is the version before they added the side plasma vents near the front later in the series.


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## Krel

Nice disintegrator, does it have the targeting screen in the hood, like the ones in the show? They probably put vents on the side to make it more visually interesting.

I wonder who designed the props for the show.

David.


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## thepixelpusher

Yes, it does have the screen area under the hood. No idea who did these props. I just know how they were made from talking to Richard Datin before he passed. I didn't think to ask who made them. I'll shoot off an email to Larry Cohen to see if he knows.

Has anyone identified a good source for lighting kits for this? Last time I had to go to a source that is now out of business to get accurate light actions.


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## scooke123

Nice looking gun - very clean lines.


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## Mark McGovern

thepixelpusher said:


> Has anyone identified a good source for lighting kits for this?


Voodoo FX is the only outfit that makes a dedicated lighting kit for the Invaders UFO I know of; you'll have to scroll quite a ways down to find the info it on this page.


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## thepixelpusher

"Tena Controls" has a complete lighting kit, but you have to ask for them via email as they don't have it listed on their site.

http://www.tenacontrols.com

There's also a section at Starship Modeler in their "resources" section on electronics that might have some other vendors selling things that can complete the lighting setup. Choose the pulldown and select "electronics" near the bottom of this page.

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/resource.cfm

There's also a forum section in Starship Modeler that covers lighting & electronics. I'll have to join, just for that.

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewforum.php?f=58&sid=4f4aa89cd01fccc01d7f7e4a6c19b19e


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## Mark McGovern

I have the Tenacontrols TOS Rotating LED Bussard Nacelle Effect kit for the 18 inch Enterprise, and it's a honey. Maybe if TC gets enough inquires about the Invaders lighting kit, they'll at least list them on their site.


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## thepixelpusher

Here's another purchase to consider with The Invaders UFO - water decals for the interior detail after you paint it. TSDS does some great water decals for the saucer. It's really not totally accurate to the set, as the set was quite a bit more plain than these details, but it looks good.

http://www.tsdsinc.com/index_files/INVADERS72.htm

Good review of the decals here: http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/tsds-decaldetail-sheet-invaders-ufo


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## SUNGOD

Maybe in the future technology will improve so the moulds can be made so the kit can be released in all clear.

I wonder when we'll see what's next from Atlantis?


----------



## thepixelpusher

Here's a link to the Tena Controls Invaders lighting kit video. It's cool that he has a magnet switch built in it that controls the multi-speed of the top lights.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZPTlzXvAog

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2EnUWufLm8


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## retheridge

Voodoo FX must have changed their lighting kit because the one I got from them a few years ago for my saucer pictured in message #79 and posted by Mark, has a center light.


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## thepixelpusher

retheridge you are right! My bad.

In fact VoodooFX's kit, in the way is pulses, and lights matches the episode "The Saucer" dead on. The scene where it's sitting on the desert and Vincent and pal look down on it. It's the scene where the saucer top looks powder blue.

Here's a recent video of the VoodooFX Invaders lighting kit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIUec1cEM5Y

The VoodooFX lighting kit is the one to get!


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## Atlantis1

Sungod, we have some great sci- fi stuff in the works on tap for production this year, keep an eye on facebook, our website mega Once things are official the tools will run, so many kits to do.

Pete


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## thepixelpusher

Atlantis1 said:


> Sungod, we have some great sci- fi stuff in the works on tap for production this year, keep an eye on facebook, our website mega Once things are official the tools will run, so many kits to do.
> 
> Pete


Can you post any pics of The Invaders model kit. We're all pretty excited.


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## thepixelpusher

Mark McGovern said:


> Voodoo FX is the only outfit that makes a dedicated lighting kit for the Invaders UFO I know of; you'll have to scroll quite a ways down to find the info it on this page.


Mark, this is the scene the VoodooFX kit matches. The saucer lights in different patterns on different episodes, but this one is classic. That shot in "The Saucer" with the powder blue upper hull is starting to grow on me.


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## Mark McGovern

Pix,

Yeah, me too - puts me in mind of the way the _Jupiter II_ hull glowed when it was under power in the _Lost in Space_ pilot episode. I could see building two Invaders UFOs: one on the ground with a silver hull and the top removable to show off the interior. The other would be an in-flight saucer, wired up for lights with the gear up and the powder blue hull.

Speaking of the saucer's interior and your terrific finish therein, I'd like to ask: how well do the TSDS decals conform to the raised surfaces of the instruments? Did you find a setting solution effective on them? Or was it better to remove the instruments and apply the decals to a flat surface?


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## thepixelpusher

Those aren't my decal builds. See the link I added above the pictures. The reviewer suggests using water only because the decals are thin.

I might do an interior where I add fiber optics to pipe the light to the control panel and wall parts.


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## Mark McGovern

thepixelpusher said:


> Those aren't my decal builds. See the link I added above the pictures. The reviewer suggests using water only because the decals are thin.


Whoops! Wasn't paying attention. If there any other inattentive schlubs like me reading this post, here is the link to the review Mr. Pixelpusher shared: http://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/tsds-decaldetail-sheet-invaders-ufo. He is right, the review pretty much tells you everything you need to know about the decals.

On the other hand, while it's true that the decals should laid down over a white surface, I don't think the UFO had a white interior. It looked more like flat silver with shades of gray. At least, that's how I'll paint mine.

I am by no means an expert with fiber optic lighting, and admit that this is the wrong forum as well, but I'll ask: how difficult is it to get a right-angle bend in a fiber optic strand? I understood that they're really brittle. I assume that in order to snake the fibers up behind the wall panels, it would be necessary to cheat the walls in from the outer hull a bit; that would provide clearance for the fiber optics.

OR - use the TSDS decals, the charm of which would be in all the lighting work saved. :dude:


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## djnick66

You paint the areas where the decals go white (or any light color really, but white works best). Not a big deal. The reason for this is the TSDS (and many other self printed type decals) do not use white ink and are printed on clear decal film. There is no white backing or opacity. So, if you put the decals over a dark surface, they disappear. Now, this is fine for dark decals, but for bright colors, they need a white/light backing.

its no different if you print your own decals too.


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## WOI

When will you post some pics of the reissue of the kit??


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## xsavoie

A great way to vary the blue hue effect on this otherwise silver saucer would be to first paint the saucer silver,then add transparent blue over it.Of course mixing different proportions of the transparent blue to a clear finish product before spraying it to the silver would mean you could obtain the depth of blue you desire.


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## thepixelpusher

Mark McGovern said:


> how difficult is it to get a right-angle bend in a fiber optic strand? I understood that they're really brittle. I assume that in order to snake the fibers up behind the wall panels, it would be necessary to cheat the walls in from the outer hull a bit; that would provide clearance for the fiber optics.
> 
> OR - use the TSDS decals, the charm of which would be in all the lighting work saved. :dude:


You're right, I likely can't do the walls, but after drilling the panel for a few fibers lighted areas I probably won't bother with the other parts.

That decal review really gave the heads up to paint it white under decal area to help the decal read better on the surface.

Anyone have a links to painting brushed metal surfaces? I think I may paint my top hull brushed and worn metal silver.


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## thepixelpusher

retheridge said:


> Voodoo FX must have changed their lighting kit because the one I got from them a few years ago for my saucer pictured in message #79 and posted by Mark, has a center light.


Can you show how your VoodooFX lighting kit fits in the upper hull? Any room left for the interior?


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## moonlightdrive21

Excellent !


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## NTRPRZ

I kind of resist the idea of decals for this type of kit. 
If they were made of photographs of the actual control panels, buttons, etc., that might be one thing. But they appear to be computer-generated drawings, which, to me at least, don't appear realistic.
I also note that the decals are two-dimensional, which to me does look right if you're trying to replicate a three-dimensional control panel, etc.
Perhaps if these details were photoetch, that might be a different story.

Just my two cents.


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## bert model maker

Is this new release the same scale as the original model or is this new one bigger ?


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## djnick66

bert model maker said:


> Is this new release the same scale as the original model or is this new one bigger ?


It is the original model... a reissue


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## djnick66

NTRPRZ said:


> I kind of resist the idea of decals for this type of kit.
> If they were made of photographs of the actual control panels, buttons, etc., that might be one thing. But they appear to be computer-generated drawings, which, to me at least, don't appear realistic.
> I also note that the decals are two-dimensional, which to me does look right if you're trying to replicate a three-dimensional control panel, etc.
> Perhaps if these details were photoetch, that might be a different story.
> 
> Just my two cents.


The decals actually look great on the model. You put them over the existing detail and it gives you a nice 3D effect. Its no different than the decals you get for aircraft instrument panels and consoles. Remember in the photographs you are just seeing the decals flat on the paper, and enlarged 500%. I've used a few sets of these and they work great and are much cleaner and neater than painting tiny details


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## Mark McGovern

And, the model is 1/72 scale - so small the 3D effect will be very effective; in this scale the figures are only one inch tall.


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## bert model maker

Thank you for the info. It WOULD look great in a larger size.


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## mach7

Mega just emailed me. My Invaders UFO is on it's way to me.


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## MEGA1

Send us a picture when you've finished it!


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## liskorea317

I hope the lighting kit that was released during the last time the kit was released also gets another issue!


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## mach7

I'm thinking of starting this next, but I'm wondering if Paragrfix is coming out with a PE set?

Maybe an improved interior? Screen accurate flight deck? In scale ladders?

Hint hint....

Also, maybe someone can come up with a clear resin top?


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## djnick66

mach7 said:


> Also, maybe someone can come up with a clear resin top?


I made a clear resin top and its a pain. The kit part needs to be cleaned up inside and out, and its not the easiest thing to cast such a large thin flat part. I cast mine solid to make it a bit easier (this was a concept project). Casting resin without a vacuum chamber makes it hard to get out any airbubbles, too. I found the clear Alumalite resin to be a bit rubbery, too, so you cant buff and polish the finished piece very well.


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## BatFanMan

Looks cool! I will have to get one of these.

Fred DeRuvo


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## Owen E Oulton

MEGA1 said:


> We are pleased to announce Atlantis' newest kit, a 1/72 scale plastic model kit of the UFO from the classic TV show The Invaders. Made from the original Aurora Molds, this has not been issued since 2003. The kit is molded in silver with a clear, detailed interior; a retro reissue featuring original box art. Expected arrival in June/July 2015. Preorder yours now!


The thread title is misleading. This is a 47 year old kit which has been rereleased several times over the years. Just because it's Atnantis' first kick at the can does not warrant an announcement of a "new" Atlantis kit. Yes, I know you set things straight in the post, but the thread should have indicated a repop, not called it new.


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## SUNGOD

Funny thing is.......Atlantis has just released pictures of it's new UFO and nobody's started a new thread to announce it.


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## thepixelpusher

Wow, where are the new images of the Atlantis model? I wonder if they are offering the clear lid as well as the solid lid like the original Aurora version. And are the bottom engine domes clear or apple green like on the studio model?


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## djnick66

thepixelpusher said:


> Wow, where are the new images of the Atlantis model? I wonder if they are offering the clear lid as well as the solid lid like the original Aurora version. And are the bottom engine domes clear or apple green like on the studio model?


Atlantis already said NO clear lid and I think the domes would be either clear or opaque (ie silver) as on the original kit.


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## thepixelpusher

Just went to the Atlantis Facebook page and found out the underside domes are clear and the lid roof is solid. No photos except an image and video of the box. Have photos of the kit been released? Looks like they will be shipping soon! YAY!!


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## swhite228

Owen E Oulton said:


> The thread title is misleading. This is a 47 year old kit which has been rereleased several times over the years. Just because it's Atnantis' first kick at the can does not warrant an announcement of a "new" Atlantis kit. Yes, I know you set things straight in the post, but the thread should have indicated a repop, not called it new.



Atlantis has several ufo kits that they offer and this is the newest in their catalog. 
The thread title is fine


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## djnick66

thepixelpusher said:


> Just went to the Atlantis Facebook page and found out the underside domes are clear and the lid roof is solid. No photos except an image and video of the box. Have photos of the kit been released? Looks like they will be shipping soon! YAY!!


Its a reissue of the old Aurora kit so its nothing we haven't seen before. Still a decent kit and worth picking up. But if you saw it in the 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s... it looks the same.


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## thepixelpusher

Any pics of the kit from anyone?


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## RMC

thepixelpusher said:


> Any pics of the kit from anyone?


no pics they would rather complain about every kit that comes out !....lol:tongue:


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## LARSON DESIGNS

I will take some pictures of my kit I got today. 

Chris


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## Trek Ace

I've had the kit for almost two weeks now, but I haven't had time to even break the seal. The box art sure looks good, though.


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## rja

TSDS makes some nice interior decals for this.


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## thepixelpusher

Go back to page 8 of this thread to see pictures I posted of those decals.


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## mach7

I'll try to get some photos up soon. I dont remember seeing anything different about it from the old monogram kit, but I just gave it a quick look over.

Edit:

I just opened the kit.

4 figures. 1 seated, 2 standing- 1 with a clipboard, 1 in the regen stand.
Clear domes on the bottom. 

The instructions are in printed on glossy paper with a copy of the original sell sheet on the back.


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## mach7

Here you go:


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## thepixelpusher

Thanks for the pics.

If anyone is interested I know the "Hollywood Show" owner and can get photos signed by Roy Thinnes (he's shown in the saucer). Roy was paid for the signing and it comes with a COA that shows Roy signing the set of 50 photos for the show. I can get them cheaper than anywhere else. Would be nice to add to your display of the model.

Just PM me.

Here's what they look like.


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## Mark McGovern

You asked for it! Here is a light kit for the Invaders UFO.


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## thepixelpusher

Nice.

Though it's electronics only. I wish they'd list the specs for the LED's, in their online page, that you need to buy to finish the kit. I'd like to know what sources they'd also suggest to buy the LED's. I contacted Tena through their contact page and asked them to post info here.


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## tenacontrols

*Invaders UFO Light kit from TenaControls*

The glow effect is set up to use a small led strip of the color of your choice. There are constant on leds in the bottom of the saucer as well, again the same applies, use a color of your choice. These are standard led's that you can purchase from ebay or any other source you are used to purchasing from. This kit was made for Boyd Crompton at Trekworks, and he used our system to achieve this effect. Please visit his youtube channel for a video on how he built the INVADERS UFO and what size led's were used.

The bottom leds that are always on need to have a resistor in series with one of the legs, the resistor value can be in the range of 470 ohms to 1000 ohms.The smaller value resistor will allow more current to flow and make it brighter. Remember we don't want it too bright, keep it in scale. For example: connect one side of the resistor to the plus power in, the other side of resistor connect to the positive side of the led and the minus side of the led connect to the minus of the power in. Repeat this process for each led that is needed on the bottom of the saucer. I believe there are Five of them. That's it, when you power up your model those bottom static on leds will come on and stay on until you shut off the model.


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## thepixelpusher

The magnetic switch to change top energy port speeds is a real winner!


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## LoraElise

Mark McGovern said:


> I suppose it would be possible for an accuracy nut to extend all this labyrinth around the UFO model's interior, building extra walls through the "Engineering Room" and into the "Communications Room".




Please forgive me if this was already pointed out somewhere in the thread, but the rooms and corridors we see in 'Dark Outpost' are on the lower level of the ship, which Aurora never addressed. It maybe still won't fit, but oh well


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## SUNGOD

Drat! I was excited when I saw this thread title as I was hoping it was an announcement of a new UFO kit.:frown2:


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## LoraElise

SUNGOD said:


> Drat! I was excited when I saw this thread title as I was hoping it was an announcement of a new UFO kit.:frown2:


Not a new kit, but Atlantis is re-releasing the same one soon  Culttvman is taking pre-orders!

https://www.culttvmanshop.com/Invad...om-Atlantis--PREORDER-RESERVATION_p_4338.html


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