# Feedback on Ambroid Pro Weld



## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

Hey guys and dolls (I love that musical),

Went to the LHS (which really isn't so local) in search of supplies. They didn't have the glue I wanted, and instead recommended Ambroid Pro Weld. I bought a bottle to try, as the manager agreed to take it back if I didn't like it.

If you've used that glue before, I sure would like to get your feedback on it. Don't want to risk messing up some parts if it's not good.

Thanks for reading!

James


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## deadmanincfan (Mar 11, 2008)

It's a good product, holds very well.


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## Night-Owl (Mar 17, 2000)

Great stuff! I didn't think they made it anymore.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

They still make it (and Tenax) its very good. Pro Weld is pretty strong stuff so dont flood it all over. What glue were you looking for?


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Meh, I used it on a Revell Frankenstein, and sent it out- the guy got it in pieces!
Never had that issue with Testors! I do use it to smooth seams other than that-bah!


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

James,

Count me as an Ambroidophile. For me, it, Tenax, and Plastruct's liquid cements work equally well. I like Plastruct a bit better for bonding unlike plastics like styrene to ABS.

Mitch, I'm afraid you mightn't have used the liquid cement correctly. Did you wash the parts before assembly? Sand the mating surfaces to get the best fit between the parts and provide tooth for the cement to grip? Clamp the parts and assemblies tightly? Hah? And when you mention Testors, are you talking about their thinner or thicker liquid cements, or the classic tube glue (which some folks on these Forums sneer at but that I, for one, use regularly)?

Back to James: the trick with using liquid cements is to be careful not to let them run all over the outer surfaces of your model. Many come with a brush inside the cap to apply the cement, but you'll get better control right away if you use a pointed paintbrush instead. If you're gluing really small parts or can't get the best fit between larger ones or assemblies, then you might want to use tube glue , super glue or some similar, thicker adhesive.

Good luck with your project!


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

The #1 mistake people make with liquid cements is doing it the "tube glue" way and putting it on a part then picking up the other half, fumbling around to get them lined up and then pressing them together. By then the glue is dried. You hold the parts together and run the liquid cememnt down the joint from the outside (or inside if its accessible) and PRESS. I guarantee they will not come apart. You can squeeze out a bead of melted plastic along the seam, and when dry, just trim and sand that down and there is often no gap or seam left between the parts. Good stuff.

Ambroid also makes a WOOD GLUE that is not suitable for plastic. So if you used that no it wont work...


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

Everyone - THANK YOU for your feedback. Looks like the manager steered me in a good direction. I'm going to start building the engine today and will give it a try.

Djnick66 - I was actually looking for Tenax. The guy at the store had never heard of it. I definitely plan to glue the parts after I put them together and let capillary action spread the glue into the joint.

Mark - you're right about the brush that comes with the glue. The fibers are way too long and splay out a good bit. I can envision glue running everywhere if I used it. I bought some small bristle brushes specifically for gluing. I also have a glass pipette I plan to try.

Thanks again,
James


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## Night-Owl (Mar 17, 2000)

There's also the tube/needle applicator for applying liquid cement.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

James,

There are also dedicated liquid cement applicators. The link is from the Micro Mark catalog. My LHS carries plastic syringes with blunt needles that work well, too.


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

Night-Owl & Mark - thanks for the info. I'll check out those applicators. I have a ton of insulin syringes. I bet I can use one of those if I cut down the needle's point.

James


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Small pointed brush works fine and there is much less risk of flooding the glue all over everything.


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## Spockr (Sep 14, 2009)

Hi James,

I converted (mostly) to liquid glues over the last couple of years. I use Tamiya Extra Thin. Super wetting action and dries fast.

You may also want to try the option of using fine tweezers like those shown below for applying liquid adhesives. This method allows a lot of control over volume and placement similar to the applicators Mark mentioned above but you may already have some tweezers laying around your bench. Its worth a try and may add to your bag of tricks.

Simply dip the closed tweezers into the liquid glue and capillary action pulls up some glue between the 'tangs'. Touch it to the loosely joined seam, squeeze the seam fully shut and hold until the glue sets. With skill and and a little luck you will get a little melted plastic oozing out of the seam which acts as filler. Makes for less touch-up work later.

http://www.micromark.com/Swiss-Style-Watchmakers-Tweezer,6714.html
http://www.micromark.com/Curved-Watchmakers-Tweezer,6715.html

Let us know how your kit build goes using the new glue.

Regards,
MattL


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Hiya Mark! :tongue:

I first used Ambroid while working in small acrylics factory where we made custom display shelf's and holders for medical, vision, jewelry and other products mainly for mall windows and conventions......I was amazed how the stuff worked.

I have tried other types but the Ambroid is the faster and attacks polystyrene and other plastics the best. My local Hobby shop try's to keep it on the shelf's.


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Mark McGovern said:


> James,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Too many steps for me- I'll 'stick' with the tube glue!


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Mitch,

I follow those steps for every model I build.

The first wash gets the mold release agents, etc. off the parts, which can help _any_ cement stick better. When I hold the mating surfaces up to the light, I can see all kinds irregularities in them. Sanding them with 150 grit sandpaper levels the mating surfaces and leaves minute scratches - "tooth" - which gives the cement more plastic to grip.

Then I fit the parts together, in front of a strong lamp I have on my workbench. There will be areas where the parts fit tightly, others where there are gaps. Frequently the gaps are caused by the locators, especially with older kits; I remove them as a matter of course. Gradual sanding of the tight-fitting areas allows the gaps to be closed, until I get a snug (or at least, snug_ger_) fit between the parts.

My decision on what cement to use depends a lot on the nature of the model. For the head halves of the Aurora/Revell Frankenstein figure model, I'd choose liquid cement, for the reasons djnick gave - to eradicate the seam between the parts as much as possible during this phase of the build (with some extra work needed to maintain the Monster's hair texture). But for the seams along the legs I'd use tube glue, after rounding the outer edges of the seams with sandpaper. That would give the appearance of the seams as they appear on the sides of real trouser legs.

If that all sounds like more trouble than you'd care to go to, that's fine. I do all this because I like to build for competitions. My aim is to create as authentic a miniature version of the subject as I can. I wish I could get more models built per year than I do, but I like the results I get from being so anal. :hat:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I got feedback on my ProWeld once, but I found that if you turn down the squelch to about 3, it won't make that sound any more.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

If anything around here needed squelching...

:tongue:


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## Mitchellmania (Feb 14, 2002)

Mark McGovern said:


> Mitch,
> 
> I follow those steps for every model I build.
> 
> ...


Yeah, you do awesome builds!! 
My method:
1. open model kit box
2. dump contents on table
3. don't look at the instructions
4. randomly piece parts together.
5. cut parts off sprues. Scrape off extra stuff.
6. Glue parts with tube glue. Look only at instructions if somethings not going together.
7. file down seams (die seams!)
8. spray paint parts, then use craft paints to detail
BAM! fun was had!


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

So that's how your figure's arms and legs got switched. We all wondered about that 

James


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

> I got feedback on my ProWeld once, but I found that if you turn down the squelch to about 3, it won't make that sound any more.
> 
> 
> > There's always one in every crowd. Ok, maybe several in this crowd.
> > James


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Mitchellmania said:


> ...BAM! fun was had!


Whuzzat?!? You wanna build models _and have fun, too??_ S'matter wichez?


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

I bought a CASE of it. Cant recommend it enough.


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## JamesInNC (Sep 17, 2011)

Wow, a case! That should last you a while.

James


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

JamesInNC said:


> Wow, a case! That should last you a while.


You'd like to think, James - but what our dear Jafo didn't mention was, he bought a case of tonic water at the same time... :drunk:


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

I've never really cared for it, or Tenax either despite others raves of both these products.

I guess I'm 'adhesively challenged'.

On my WotW Tripod by Pegasus, I'm currently using Plastruct and Tamiya glues.
And so far, the Tamiya stuff seams (ha ha) to be holding better.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement was my overall glue of choice until I found Mr. Cement S Type. Now I use that... But Tenax, Pro Weld, etc are all good. You will find some brands of glue do work better on some brands of plastic. Its good to have more than one type just in case.


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## starlord (Mar 30, 2011)

I have used once, when the store I go to didn't have any bottles of Plastruct cement.
Since then they have had the plastruct cement all the time, the only Ambroid I use it the tube glue for model rockets.


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I have used Tenex and the Plastruct liquids over the past few years until fairly recently. At that point I started picking up the Testors liquid from Michaels with the 40% off coupon for about $2.50 a bottle. It seems to work as good as the other two and at that price is easier on the wallet. I've stashed 3 bottles at the moment and usually pick up a couple discounted when I pass by a Michaels. I do the same for Testors dull coat buying it from Michaels with the coupon as well. I buy one and my wife follows me and buys one for me as well. I also pick up other various supplies that are usable from Michaels as well. I guess I need to start figuring if I can do the same thing with Hobby Lobby as they are usually only a short distance from each other.

Bob K.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

Tamiya is a close second choice for me. I even wax sealed the bottles of Proweld when I got them.... plastruct makes to different liquid glues fyi.
and for the record, I HATE tonic water..


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Jafo said:


> ...and for the record, I HATE tonic water...


Well then, maybe was it club soda - ?


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