# KIT ALERT!! 1:350 TOS Enterprise �Metal� Defletcor Dish from G-Factor Models



## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

*KIT ALERT!! 1:350 TOS Enterprise “Metal” Defletcor Dish from G-Factor Models*

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=49992
_RICH.

Personally,speaking for myself of course,this is money that could be better spent on something alot more worth while like maybe perhaps 
Ross's navigation flasher board !! Thought;" let everyone know its available now".


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Thanks! Not cheap, around $50 incl. shipping, but looks pretty good. I wish the picture that shows it next to the kit one was in focus so you can get a better idea of a comparison. I wonder if this will fit the Master Replicas model as well...


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

I don't think it is the "kit", but Is the 'Master Replicas' version.
But still, other than being one piece metal,what details are on there that are not Exactly on the kit's part? Better money spent elsewhere!


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Yeah, I might do this for my MR ship as its a premium piece if it was clear that it was an option. One of the shots looks a little rough, for this to work it has to be perfect IMO.

Thanks for sharing!

Tib


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Honestly its not that well machined. The dish part is pretty scratchy looking given the $40 price tag. I like the center antenna part. That's cool.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

RICHjm said:


> I don't think it is the "kit", but Is the 'Master Replicas' version.


The link states it's for the Polar Lights kit. So, I don't know if it would fit the MR E. Would have to talk to the manufacturer. 



RICHjm said:


> But still, other than being one piece metal,what details are on there that are not Exactly on the kit's part? Better money spent elsewhere!


Not sure what it is but the finish looks better than the kit. I think it's the combination of color and deep shine.


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## John Duncan (Jan 27, 2001)

It looks like there's mold release on it. It would explain the "greasy" appearance.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

May not be perfect, but it looks better than the kit part. Plus the fact it's metal. And really, $40 is not that bad, it's a pretty big piece. Hmm, months ago people were begging for someone to do one of these, and now....


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

$40 is high for a metal part. I just bought a 1/35 scale machined metal German gun barrel that is several machined metal parts and a few photo etch pieces, and over a foot long and it was only $13. It even his rifling inside.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Well we really shouldn't get into a discussion over how much a part costs or if it's worth it. A lot of us just spent north of $150 for a model kit, plus another few hundred on lighting, plus more on PE, and more on decals and masks, and now we have a $40 part available. I'm sure they will sell a lot of them.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

John Duncan said:


> It looks like there's mold release on it. It would explain the "greasy" appearance.


Huh? Mold, grease?! It's polished metal. It's supposed to look shiny. 





robiwon said:


> May not be perfect, but it looks better than the kit part. Plus the fact it's metal. And really, $40 is not that bad, it's a pretty big piece. Hmm, months ago people were begging for someone to do one of these, and now....


Agreed.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

I've been expecting someone to offer a metal deflector and planning to buy one when they did. Perhaps it is a bit on the higher price side but that dish to me like the bussards really catch your attention on this ship and the plastic dish just ain't cuttin' it.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Sparky said:


> I've been expecting someone to offer a metal deflector and planning to buy one when they did. Perhaps it is a bit on the higher price side but that dish to me like the bussards really catch your attention on this ship and the plastic dish just ain't cuttin' it.


Yeah, I agree. That plastic one on the PL kit looks particularly unimpressive. I don't have a PL E but I have a Master Replicas, and I think that one is better. Still, I'll contact the seller to see if it will work on the MR. If it does, I'm definitely getting one, especially since the angle of the spindle on my MR deflector is slightly off.


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## johnF (Aug 31, 2010)

I know the owner of G-Factor and do some resin casting for him. The dish is a brass casting made from the Polar Lights kit parts. The brass is then plated in copper. I helped prep the parts before they were sent for plating and they are not perfect but look very good and look better than the kit parts. The owner talked about using a different process to make the parts but is still working it out.


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

djnick66 said:


> $40 is high for a metal part. I just bought a 1/35 scale machined metal German gun barrel that is several machined metal parts and a few photo etch pieces, and over a foot long and it was only $13. It even his rifling inside.


It has to do with quantity. This dish is aimed at a more limited market than German armor barrels. 

As for the metal dish, if it is too shiny will it lose scale appearance? Does it need to be a little less shiny to look "right"?


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## feek61 (Aug 26, 2006)

A few years ago when the MR came out; somebody did a run of the deflector dishes in brass and aluminum and they were I think $50 bucks then. I have one and it's great and would probably get one of these if they offered a pilot version.


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## Ensign Eddie (Nov 25, 1998)

I guess I must have missed the memo that states we are all supposed to start thinking the kit part is a piece of junk.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Well, I may be crazy but I plan to get one of these. $50 is what I expected it would cost if one was made. I think it will be a nice addition to the model.


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

ENSIGN, didnt you know anything labeled as for "star trek" you are suppose to buy?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Ensign Eddie said:


> I guess I must have missed the memo that states we are all supposed to start thinking the kit part is a piece of junk.


I think that the memo said that copper-plated brass would look better than copper-painted plastic. 

Am I getting one? Not sure.
Would I kick myself if I missed the opportunity? Probably not. (shrug)


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I'm up for one. I was quoted $45.00 with shipping to my zip code.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

feek61 said:


> A few years ago when the MR came out; somebody did a run of the deflector dishes in brass and aluminum and they were I think $50 bucks then. I have one and it's great and would probably get one of these if they offered a pilot version.



I remember that. I got in on it too late. I bought my MR a couple of years after it was released and wanted to get the metal deflector but the guy was no longer making 'em.

This one is designed for the PL kit not the MR, although the part fit might be one and the same, not sure. Ernie Gee at G-factor emailed me back saying he's not sure either. He said if I sent him a pic of the MR deflector he might be able to figure it out. 

Still thinking of getting one to see what it looks like. If it doesn't fit my MR I might be able to make up the loss on the Bay...


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Rylo was the person who made one years ago for the MR. I have already talked to him as mentioned in another thread. It may have been on SSM that I mentioned it. If there was enough interest he may do them, they wouldn't be cheap as it would be a limited run, plus the fact that he is very busy right now.

No one is twisting anyone's arm to buy one. Nothing wrong with the kit part either. Some people just want every accessory made for a particular model. Some may just want one whatever the cost, to each their own.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> I'm up for one. I was quoted $45.00 with shipping to my zip code.


$45 total shipped? Not too bad. For those that are happy with the kit part that's great as you've got $45 dollars for something else . 

I've requested ordering info and will be ordering one right away once I get a response. If the dish surface isn't perfect well to paraphrase "space debris happens".


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

robiwon said:


> Nothing wrong with the kit part either.


Maybe the kit part could be painted copper, stuck in a Dremel, then spun and polished to give it that anisotropic sheen ...?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

robiwon said:


> Rylo was the person who made one years ago for the MR. I have already talked to him as mentioned in another thread. It may have been on SSM that I mentioned it. If there was enough interest he may do them, they wouldn't be cheap as it would be a limited run, plus the fact that he is very busy right now.



I would definitely buy at least one from him. If there's any way to sign up for them... :thumbsup:


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## John Duncan (Jan 27, 2001)

Proper2 said:


> Huh? Mold, grease?! It's polished metal. It's supposed to look shiny.


 
I wasn't saying it was bad. But Mold Release, i.e., that which allows a part to be removed from a mold easily, if not wiped off leaves a greasy film. I was supposing it still had mold release on it. :hat:

If I can find my MR replacement dish I'll photograph it next to the PL kit part.

I think I paid $50 or so for it way back then. So for a metal dish this new version wouldn't seem expensive.


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

Machined metal normally is MUCH smoother than that. Based on that pic, I sure wont be buying one


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Jafo said:


> Machined metal normally is MUCH smoother than that. Based on that pic, I sure wont be buying one


Hmm, yeah, I think the issue is that, yes, it's a machined smooth part but then it's copper plated and it appears that's where the imperfections occur.


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## Mr. Wabac (Nov 9, 2002)

Will the Copper dull/tarnish over time ?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Mr. Wabac said:


> Will the Copper dull/tarnish over time ?


Unless you touch it a lot or expose it to extreme humidity, I would guess no. If you kept a shiny penny protected and untouched it would not "age" very much at all. Not for very many decades anyway.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Just noted Ronster's post of this replacement deflector dish described as a prototype example a couple of months or so back: 

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=386702&highlight=deflector


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## JeffG (May 10, 2004)

It IS nice looking. And it's one of the ship's focal points. Hell, after already being in deep, I'm strongly considering it. After all, I'm not planning on building this kit again.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

JeffG said:


> It IS nice looking. And it's one of the ship's focal points. Hell, after already being in deep, I'm strongly considering it. After all, I'm not planning on building this kit again.


Well, the thing is, it looks so much better than the kit part. At least to me it does.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Sparky said:


> Just noted Ronster's post of this replacement deflector dish described as a prototype example a couple of months or so back:
> 
> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=386702&highlight=deflector


I see where some posters wonder about the finish being too bright and contrasting too much with the painted plastic kit. Has anyone tried spraying metal with Dullcote? I would think that would help to dull the finish.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> I see where some posters wonder about the finish being too bright and contrasting too much with the painted plastic kit. Has anyone tried spraying metal with Dullcote? I would think that would help to dull the finish.


I think a shot of dullcoat would be great and I am planning to do that. That might also reduce the appearance any surface roughness.

My issue with the kit's plastic dish is that the surface features are too "soft". Thats what I see in the side-by-side photos with the replacement metal piece. It reduces the realistic look of the deflector dish. That dish is a prominant feature and having it look more realistic improves the whole look of the ship. It does to my eyes anyway.

I've pulled out and looked at both deflector pieces (Premier kit) several times and just keep thinking the same thing.

Nothing wrong with PL efforts, probably just the nature of the beast.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I'll be interested in seeing how the dullcoat experiment turns out. Right now I am only comcermed these will be sold out by the time I can afford one. I hope they are around for awhile.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Opus Penguin said:


> I'll be interested in seeing how the dullcoat experiment turns out. Right now I am only comcermed these will be sold out by the time I can afford one. I hope they are around for awhile.


I just ordered one today, $43 incl. shipping. But still not sure it will fit my MR E... it's a gamble. It it doesn't fit I'll probably try to sell it at some point. I'm curious about the quality though, and I will post close-ups once it arrives. I'm not sure if the quality shown on the MMM site is typical or if that is a prototype. 

BTW, what "dullcoat" product exactly would one use on this? Thanks.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Proper2 said:


> I just ordered one today, $43 incl. shipping. But still not sure it will fit my MR E... it's a gamble. It it doesn't fit I'll probably try to sell it at some point. I'm curious about the quality though, and I will post close-ups once it arrives. I'm not sure if the quality shown on the MMM site is typical or if that is a prototype.
> 
> BTW, what "dullcoat" product exactly would one use on this? Thanks.


I was thinking of using an automotive type clear lacquer. I noted on a boating forum that a individual wanted to protect his copper lines from the marine environment apparently for cosmetic reasons. He used Plasti-kote clear lacquer and indicated that that it had "dulled the finish a bit". That sounded promising. I'd like the deflector to have a just bit of sheen to accent the surface details. I will probably get a can of Plasti-kote and try it.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Shouldn't the colour/finish of the dish match the copper rings? If so, for it to look right to me I think you'd need a replacement part for the rings, too.


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## FyreTigger (May 31, 2005)

*Preserving and/or Dulling the copper finish*

I have a friend who is a bronze sculptor. I have several of her bronzes, and she has well schooled me in their care. In order to protect the finish of the bronze and preserve its patina, the bronze needs to be periodically waxed with *PURE* carnuba wax. You apply a light coat of it with a slightly stiff, natural fiber brush (pastry brushes from a cooking store work well -- cover any metal parts with tape); allow it to cloud (like car wax); then polish.

By adjusting the heaviness of the wax and the degree of the polish, it is possible to get a slightly dulled, but completely protected finish. Since the part is unlikely to be touched much, the wax should last a long time, and it doesn't yellow.

With the Carnuba, I must emphasize *PURE*. Many carnuba waxes are actually combination wax/cleaners and contain polishing compounds. Great for your boat or plane or car with heavy clear coat. Bad for your bronze or bare metal. Over time, this would strip through the copper plating on the part.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

RossW said:


> Shouldn't the colour/finish of the dish match the copper rings? If so, for it to look right to me I think you'd need a replacement part for the rings, too.


Good point. Perhaps copper paint on the dish and the rings might be a better choice. Then a dulling clearcoat over the paint.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

How about "Future" floor wax? Can that be sprayed to protect and somehow allow for a dull finish if coated with something?


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## J_Indy (Jan 28, 2013)

RossW said:


> Shouldn't the colour/finish of the dish match the copper rings? If so, for it to look right to me I think you'd need a replacement part for the rings, too.


I think if you only need one, the metal dish is not a bad deal - but I agree that the color match with the rings behind it could be problematic...

There are some vids on Youtube of resin casting - and adding (copper, brass, or aluminum) metal powder into the cast to create a metal finish that is integrated into the part, not painted on.

The con of that is - the casting materials all together would cost a bit more than 1 metal dish probably.

The pro is - if you do more than one (for multiple builds of the kit/pilot version - or maybe other scales of the kit as well), it would probably total to be cheaper (though you have to add your own labor).

Another pro is - if color match is an issue, you could cast the rings too the same way...


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## FyreTigger (May 31, 2005)

*Custom Plating or Leafing*

Has anyone every tried having a part like this custom electro-plated or tried leafing it themselves?

I tried getting copper leaf at Michael's and the LHS, but neither had copper in stock. I was going to experiment with the invisible back end of the deflector rings.

But of course, once plated or leafed, you still have to achieve the proper patina.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Has anybody who ordered this from G-factor gotten it yet? Ordered mine on May 1 and I know it hasn't been very long at all, but I can't get a confirmation of the order or a reply as to the status of it.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Proper2 said:


> Has anybody who ordered this from G-factor gotten it yet? Ordered mine on May 1 and I know it hasn't been very long at all, but I can't get a confirmation of the order or a reply as to the status of it.


I've e-mailed twice requesting ordering information but have not received a reply thus far. I might hold off ordering until I hear that you have received yours and what you think of the part. Please post when you receive it.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Sparky said:


> I've e-mailed twice requesting ordering information but have not received a reply thus far. I might hold off ordering until I hear that you have received yours and what you think of the part. Please post when you receive it.


Got an email back today from Ernie that he had sold out the first batch by the time he received my order and just cast a new batch today. He needs to finish and copper plate them at a friend's chrome shop, and it will probably be another week or so before he gets them back. So, there you have it.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Anyone know how to order one? I emailed the guy twice and have not received a response.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

Opus Penguin said:


> Anyone know how to order one? I emailed the guy twice and have not received a response.


Same boat. I understand the seller may be currently out of stock but a reply e-mail would sure be appreciated.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Sparky said:


> Same boat. I understand the seller may be currently out of stock but a reply e-mail would sure be appreciated.


Yeah, he's probably overwhelmed with orders and emails. He probably wasn't ready for such volume of interest.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Anybody received any pieces yet? Still waiting on mine. Put the order in on May 1.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

There have been a couple on eBay for the same price.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

djnick66 said:


> There have been a couple on eBay for the same price.


Don't see any. Link?


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I didn't pay attention to it since I don't want one. I found it by looking for a dish for the 1/650 kit. I think it was just Enterprise deflector dish or something of the sort. I may have just been browsing "Star Trek Enterprise" under Hobbies. But, there is at least one on there and I have come across it a few times in the last few weeks. I don't recall it saying G Factor either. It had a real generic title.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Reply from Ernie at G-Factor: The batch is awaiting copper plating which is unfortunately out of my control. Hope to get them next week.


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## trekman (Apr 2, 2007)

*Metal Dish*

I ordered two and have yet to hear from G-Factor at all. Even if the parts are not ready he/they could at least answer the two E-mails I sent. How rude,old boy.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

trekman said:


> I ordered two and have yet to hear from G-Factor at all. Even if the parts are not ready he/they could at least answer the two E-mails I sent. How rude,old boy.


When did you order yours? I ordered 2 as well. The first on May 1 and the second about a week or so later. I e-mailed Ernie at G-factor about a week ago for an update. No reply. I emailed him again yesterday. As of yet no reply. If he doesn't reply by tomorrow, Thursday, I'm contacting PayPal to open a claim and get my money back. Sorry, but this is no way to conduct business.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I was going to buy one of these but I emailed him twice as well, to get some info, and never received a response.


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## Sparky (Feb 21, 2004)

djnick66 said:


> I didn't pay attention to it since I don't want one. I found it by looking for a dish for the 1/650 kit. I think it was just Enterprise deflector dish or something of the sort. I may have just been browsing "Star Trek Enterprise" under Hobbies. But, there is at least one on there and I have come across it a few times in the last few weeks. I don't recall it saying G Factor either. It had a real generic title.


Here is the completed listing. There was another sold the day before as well (same seller). $87 shipped just seems too high.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-350-Premi...ue&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557#ht_472wt_1189


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## trekman (Apr 2, 2007)

*1/350 dish*

I ordered mine directly off the modeler magic web page,from the contact the seller link in early May. Not getting any info from Elite or Ernee.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

trekman said:


> I ordered mine directly off the modeler magic web page,from the contact the seller link in early May. Not getting any info from Elite or Ernee.



Got an email late last night from Ernie. He wrote: "I am receiving the parts Friday and will ship over the weekend."


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## trekman (Apr 2, 2007)

*Metal Dish*

Thanks for the update Proper2,anxiety subsiding a little.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Says he shipped my 2 today. Can you say, "molasses in December"?


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I still have not heard anything. Still nervous about ordering it as a result.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Opus Penguin said:


> I still have not heard anything. Still nervous about ordering it as a result.


If you order via PayPal, like I did, there should be no reason to worry. You're protected.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Unless the delay goes past the amount of time you have to file a complaint. You have X days to file a complaint with Pay Pal. If a vendor drags out an order past that date, you are basically SOL.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

djnick66 said:


> Unless the delay goes past the amount of time you have to file a complaint. You have X days to file a complaint with Pay Pal. If a vendor drags out an order past that date, you are basically SOL.


Yes, it's 45 days, I believe.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

And do not be afraid to file a complaint. I ordered from a highly recommended vendor recently and heard NOTHING. I sent several emails, including copies of my order and Pay Pal receipt/records... NOTHING. I let enough time pass for the order to arrive on its own... NOTHING. So, I filed a complaint with Pay Pal. It was amazing. The company contacted me within 12 hours and despite a string of excuses (they claimed since they had no record of my order on their end they did not feel they had to reply to my emails) they got my order off to me the next day. They might be the best outfit in the world but a nudge from PP got them moving PRONTO.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

djnick66 said:


> And do not be afraid to file a complaint. I ordered from a highly recommended vendor recently and heard NOTHING. I sent several emails, including copies of my order and Pay Pal receipt/records... NOTHING. I let enough time pass for the order to arrive on its own... NOTHING. So, I filed a complaint with Pay Pal. It was amazing. The company contacted me within 12 hours and despite a string of excuses (they claimed since they had no record of my order on their end they did not feel they had to reply to my emails) they got my order off to me the next day. They might be the best outfit in the world but a nudge from PP got them moving PRONTO.


Exactly.


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## CaptCBoard (Aug 3, 2002)

Ernie is a really good friend of mine, so I can tell you guys you have nothing to worry about. He is essentially a one-man operation who has had amazing luck getting some really large orders from Asian model companies. His main product line is brass landing gear for new aircraft kits. Normally he does everything himself, but in the case of the deflector dish, he has to run the parts through a plating company to get the copper finish-- and he can't control how long that takes.

He tells me he will not take further orders for the deflector dish unless he has the stock in hand. So, once he clears these parts you guys are waiting on, this problem won't pop up again.

One more thing-- I'm the guy who told him he should do the dish. He wasn't aware how popular it would be, so this has really taken him by surprise! He also tells me he's going to do the pilot dish, he just doesn't know exactly when.

Scott


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

CaptCBoard said:


> Ernie is a really good friend of mine, so I can tell you guys you have nothing to worry about. He is essentially a one-man operation who has had amazing luck getting some really large orders from Asian model companies. His main product line is brass landing gear for new aircraft kits. Normally he does everything himself, but in the case of the deflector dish, he has to run the parts through a plating company to get the copper finish-- and he can't control how long that takes.
> 
> He tells me he will not take further orders for the deflector dish unless he has the stock in hand. So, once he clears these parts you guys are waiting on, this problem won't pop up again.
> 
> ...


Please let us know when they are available again. I will order one.


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## johnF (Aug 31, 2010)

CaptCBoard said:


> Ernie is a really good friend of mine, so I can tell you guys you have nothing to worry about. He is essentially a one-man operation who has had amazing luck getting some really large orders from Asian model companies. His main product line is brass landing gear for new aircraft kits. Normally he does everything himself, but in the case of the deflector dish, he has to run the parts through a plating company to get the copper finish-- and he can't control how long that takes.
> 
> He tells me he will not take further orders for the deflector dish unless he has the stock in hand. So, once he clears these parts you guys are waiting on, this problem won't pop up again.
> 
> ...


He also has the 1/1000 dish and may do that one too.


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## Wattanasiri (Aug 15, 2010)

Unfortunately, I ended up resorting to a Paypal claim in order to get my money back. 

I do hope everyone eventually receives theirs, but my interest in this product has definitely evaporated.


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## trekman (Apr 2, 2007)

*TOS Dish*

Yes! I got a call from Ernie this evening asking for my snail mail address. Duh,I forgot to include it in my correspondence. A real cool guy, says he's just a little overwhelmed with work/time. I'm glad I waited since I missed the run on these for my Master Replicas 1/350. I will update when the goodies arrive.


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## kahn1701 (Jul 11, 2005)

Got my two today.
They look great.
Now I need a set for my BIG E.

Thanks for the great work


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Glad to hear. I would still like to know when he is ready to accept new orders and I will get one.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Opus Penguin said:


> Glad to hear. I would still like to know when he is ready to accept new orders and I will get one.


Same here!


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

This metal dish is cool, but I just plan on painting my plastic kit dish with Alcald2 Copper


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

PixelMagic said:


> This metal dish is cool, but I just plan on painting my plastic kit dish with Alcald2 Copper


I've heard Alclad rubs off pretty easily. Any concerns there? Never used it myself.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> I've heard Alclad rubs off pretty easily. Any concerns there? Never used it myself.


You have to hit it with an Alclad clear coat to hold it down. You also can't touch it as it dries. I suspect people who have had trouble with it coming off have not let it dry thoroughly before touching it and/or are handling it roughly. I used it on the chrome parts of my Optimus Prime, and it worked beautifully. Alcald is the only metallic paint I know of that actually looks like real metal in person.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showpost.php?p=4032992&postcount=24


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Alclad does not rub off easily. Despite what is written about it, most colors can be applied safely over bare plastic too. Only polished aluminum and chrome definitely need a primer. Primer also does not have to be black. I like the way Alclad goes on over Tamiya fine grey primer myself. Most of the finishes are pretty durable and can be taped over. It dries more or less instantly too. One mistake people make with it is to over apply it. You mist it on at low pressure and use just enough to cover what you are painting. Alclad sticks well to primer and plastic but it does not stick well to itself. If you put on too much, you are just putting Alclad on top of Alclad and it will rub off or lift off. A couple of the shades are fairly delicate though. I think one is Airframe Aluminum. Alclad's own clear is very good as a sealer. For the deflector dish on the Enterprise I would not worry about clear coats and durability. its not like you will ever touch the ditch or rings once the model is finished.


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## trekman (Apr 2, 2007)

*1/350 TOS Dish*

Well guess what was waiting for me today after work? Yes my two dishes!!! Sweet indeed. Very bright and shiny,Trek Lives!:thumbsup:


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

*Not very happy with mine.*



trekman said:


> Well guess what was waiting for me today after work? Yes my two dishes!!! Sweet indeed. Very bright and shiny,Trek Lives!:thumbsup:


No bubbles or other distracting surface defects? Space damage or not, mine had more than I care for. I have contacted Ernie for a return/refund.


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## robiwon (Oct 20, 2006)

Is anyone going to actually post pictures of these?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

robiwon said:


> Is anyone going to actually post pictures of these?


Here you go...

Not a good result IMO.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Yeah. A nice effort, but I do believe I will stick with spraying mine with Alclad Copper.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

PixelMagic said:


> Yeah. A nice effort, but I do believe I will stick with spraying mine with Alclad Copper.


Don't blame ya.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

PixelMagic said:


> Yeah. A nice effort, but I do believe I will stick with spraying mine with Alclad Copper.


I think I have to agree. If it was of better quality I might get it but I think the Alclad copper sounds like a better alternative. Is Alclad copper best sprayed on over a gloss black lacquer?


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> I think I have to agree. If it was of better quality I might get it but I think the Alclad copper sounds like a better alternative. Is Alclad copper best sprayed on over a gloss black lacquer?



Well, according to their own website, it looks like any standard primer will do. From their website, it states as follows...

_Apply one of these primers before using Regular ALCLAD:

Alclad ALC-302 GREY PRIMER

Alclad ALC-306 WHITE PRIMER & MICROFILLER

Alclad ALC-309 BLACK PRIMER & MICROFILLER

Tamiya or Gunze Sangyo plastic primers

Auto Primer-white or grey

Plastic primers and auto primers should be lightly polished with 1000/1200 wet & dry paper to give a less absorbent smooth surface ._


Now, under the high-shine paints they have, such as chrome, it states you need a gloss black enamel undercoat.

However, for Copper, it looks like I may just be using a good ol' Tamiya grey primer.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

I use Alclad all the time and it is very easy to use and much easier than most people think.

You bo not need a primer for most shades although you can use one. Tamiya's FINE GREY spray primer works great. It does not have to be black. For Copper you might wasnt to try something like Tamiya Gloss Red spray paint. 

The biggest mistake people make with Alclad is using too much. You want to m ist it on at a low pressure until you get the desired finish and the primer/base/plastic is covered. DO NOT spray on more to try to build up depth or anything. That is the recipe for mega FAIL. Alclad sticks well to plastic, primer but not so much to itself, so once you get a smooth even layer, STOP spraying it. Spraying Alclad on top of Alclad results in a soft finish that just rubs off in your fingers. 

You do not have to clear coat Alclad, although you can. Their Aqua clear stuff is good and I would recommend that, but you can use Pledge/Future, or any other clear hobby sealer. Most clear coats will effect the finish to some degree.


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## onigiri (May 27, 2009)

Im wondering if the piece you received is indicative of all of them or you just got a bad one. If thats the quality of the run I cant see the trade off financially for flawed metal v. well painted plastic. IMHO that is not a quality plating job



Proper2 said:


> No bubbles or other distracting surface defects? Space damage or not, mine had more than I care for. I have contacted Ernie for a return/refund.


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

onigiri said:


> Im wondering if the piece you received is indicative of all of them or you just got a bad one. If thats the quality of the run I cant see the trade off financially for flawed metal v. well painted plastic. IMHO that is not a quality plating job


There's no way of knowing what the typical one is like unless several other customers were to post pics. I agree, the quality is not good at all, and I tend to doubt that typically they'd be much better than this one that I got--ESPECIALLY SINCE I REQUESTED ONE FREE OF FLAWS when I placed the order!. I heard back from Ernie, and he said he's sorry and he'd like to see pics. And he would replace it. I sent him this pic and I replied that if these types of flaws cannot be controlled (eliminated) I'd rather have my $$ back. Haven't heard back from him on that yet. Meanwhile I started a dispute (not quite a claim yet) with PayPal so that my 45-day window does not lapse. It's only $45 but why lose it?


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## Proper2 (Dec 8, 2010)

Just shipped mine back to Ernie today for a refund. He said: "Due to the difficulty of making these and your review, I won't be making these after I run out. I put a lot of heart and soul into these."


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

No doubt it took time and effort. But, the process introduced an unacceptable level of quality in the finished product. A shame he couldn't try to improve the process.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

jheilman said:


> No doubt it took time and effort. But, the process introduced an unacceptable level of quality in the finished product. A shame he couldn't try to improve the process.


Agreed. I am sure he feels disappointed, and I feel bad about that. However, if you are going to charge $40 for 1 part of an entire model, it better be machined to perfection. I'm sorry he put a lot of hard work into something that didn't get widely adopted by the community, though. It could have been really cool.


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## jheilman (Aug 30, 2001)

So, it was machined and then plated two-tone? The plating is the problem. Try a different plating provider?


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