# One more Polar Lights C-57D WIP thread



## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks.

This project, being made after so many others, will not come with novelties. It is totally based on Teslabe's C-57D (you can see the videos on his youtube channel).

The model, as it come, is very simple to be assembled and painted. So, I decided to make things more complicated in order to have more fun. 

And what could be more complex and challenger than having Teslabe's model as a goal? :freak:

Here I go.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Washed twice.



Primed and with a layer of black to avoid leaking of light.



I decided to make the landing gears bays a little different.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Detailing the landing gears bays.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Preparing the landing gears bays lighting.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Doors. After all, those guys have to come aboard and leave the spaceship somehow.



I thought I would have a steady hand to paint the black strips on the little platform. Ho, Ho, Ho...


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> ...I thought I would have a steady hand to paint the black strips on the little platform. Ho, Ho, Ho...


Yeah, that's never worked out well for me either. :lol:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I suppose I should have made decals or masked the thing, but, you know, it is so tiny and will be so hidden...

Ok, I didn't have enough patience.


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

I doubt anyone will notice it unless you point it out to them.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando, thank you sooooo very much for the kind words and thank you for thinking my build was good enough for you to use as a guide.....
You've done a fantastic job so far and I look forward to where you go with this kit. By the way, the strips turned out great.....:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Zombie_61 said:


> I doubt anyone will notice it unless you point it out to them.


Ops! Too late.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

teslabe said:


> Fernando, thank you sooooo very much for the kind words and thank you for thinking my build was good enough for you to use as a guide.....
> You've done a fantastic job so far and I look forward to where you go with this kit. By the way, the strips turned out great.....:thumbsup:


Hi, Teslabe.

I have every thing about your WIP threads, since the images till the entire threads saved as PDF. :thumbsup:

I guess tha this thread is gonna be in a halt for a while, because I need some time to study the arduino software to be employed to control the servos. 

Besides, I also need to learn:

1) how to make the three LEDs turn on and off in the middle of the landing gears movements; and,

2) how to make the reactor's lights to pulse, when its servo stops spinning.

Just like in your C-57D video. :freak:

I think that you didn't use code to control the 3 LEDs of the landing gears bays, didn't you? You would have used a pulse detector instead, right?


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Ops! Too late.


Okay, so anyone other than us Hobby Talk lunatics.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> 1) how to make the three LEDs turn on and off in the middle of the landing gears movements; and,
> 
> 2) how to make the reactor's lights to pulse, when its servo stops spinning.
> 
> ...


http://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/SingleServoExample
https://www.pololu.com/product/2802
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-Basic-...ltiWii-Lite-/320907184616?hash=item4ab78f09e8

Hi Fernando, I didn't use a Arduino board for the servos, lighting of the landing gear wells or the engine effect,I just used one Pro-Mini to control 
the motor speed for the engine fan blade effect, I was just starting to get the hang of writing Arduino sketches at the time....:freak: But now I think I could have done the whole effect with a Pro-Mini and one sketch.....
For the LEDs in the landing gear wells, I used a RC servo switch, it detects 
the pulse that make the servo move and when the threshold is approximately 1700 µs it turns the LEDs ether on or off depanding how you hook it up, it's very user friendly.

P.S. If you use the Pro-Mini, be sure to get a FTDI Breakout Board to program it with.....:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe

Thank you for the informations. I will try the Pololu RC switch. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I was thinking to use an Arduino UNO, but it is a too much heavy artillery for no big issue (besides, it doesn't fit inside the kit anyway).

I already had an UNO board and was using it just to learn writing code and begin to control servos and LEDs. This board, however, is reserved to my Moebius J2, which is a totally different story.

I bought an arduino NANO to do the job in this project, but my guess is that the Pololu Maestro Servo Controller (6 channels) alone would be enough (I had bought it to use just as a driver for the three servos).

I simply don't have enough knowledge yet to assert whether this driver can syncronize servos and LEDs AND accept commands from an RC.

We will see. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I've been studying the three main components of this electronic project and besides the problem of writing a code to the Pololu Micro Maestro 6, I have tried to understand how it works together with Pololu RC Switch, and the Keyes IR Receiver.

The IR Receiver should send a signal both to Micro Maestro, in order to move the servos and, at the same time, send a signal to the RC Switch so that it can light up the LEDs inside the bays.

The problem is, how to delay the lighting to occur at the middle of the landing gears movements.

I don't know whether I should program this delay into the Micro Maestro code, or it happens naturally until when the threshold is approximately 1700 µs, like Teslabe said.

Till now, I think I will not need to use a micro controller like the Arduino Nano.

Advices are welcome.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

first up, outstanding work! I know you'll crack the lighting issue and make something amazing!

Stupid question that may have been addressed in some thread long, long ago, did R2/PL fix the look of the upper dome, compared to the larger kit which, IIRC, was pretty darn off? I keep telling myself I really need to build a C-57D as one of those "wish Aurora had made it" promise fulfillment to myself.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Steve!

Thanks! :thumbsup:

I hope, I will overcome this challenge. I am not exactly a newbie in electronics, I mean, dealing with the analog side of this thing, e.g., resistors, LEDs, capacitors, soldering, etc. 

This project, however needs you to enter into the digital side and write instructions to be processed by a chip. That is a totally new field for me. 

No problem at all, for I like to study. Let's see if I am a good student. :wave:


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## starseeker (Feb 1, 2006)

Fernando, your work is insanely great and


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hey, I began to answer by your post in the other thread and I thought you had forgot the beginning of the phrase. Now, here it is. :lol:

As for this wip, I have a good master in electronics.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> The problem is, how to delay the lighting to occur at the middle of the landing gears movements.


https://www.pololu.com/product/2802
https://www.pololu.com/picture/view/0J4865
https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J60/7
Fernando, if you are using the same series R/C switch that I used, you can set it to respond anywhere in the 1-2ms pulse, the 1.7ms is just the default value.
The board has two pads for the "Learning mode jumper", here is some info that might help.....:wave: Great work, by the way......:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe.

Thanks for your help. I am using exactly the same RC switch.

Let's see if I understood it correctly. The same signal, sent from the remote control to the receiver, can start the servos movement and, at the same time, turn on the LEDs, but in this case with a delay caused by the RC switch.

Is that right? 

So, I need to link both, the RC switch and the Mini Maestro Servo Controller, to the receiver.

Well, at least that's what I am doing.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe.
> 
> Thanks for your help. I am using exactly the same RC switch.
> 
> ...


Hi Fernando,
Yes, the same channel you are using to control the servos will also address the RC switch, that's why I used it. The receiver only outputs a PWM signal
on each channel for controlling servos, you need a "high/low" signal to turn on and off the LEDs and that is what the RC switch does.....:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe

Here you have two images that show what I have done.





Please, did I make something dumb? Be honest, I'm strong. :tongue:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Should I put the 3 servos AND the receiver on just one channel in the controller?

Do you think that this Micro Maestro has enough "intelligence" to do the trick without an arduino microcontroller?

Teslabe, I am sorry for being so didactic, but I am also aiming to the others newbies in electronics here, like me. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I uploaded an early video of the controller and servos to Photobucket, but there is no way to make the thing play. I uploaded the file in three different formats but nothing happened. 

It was a very simple sketch were running to do this. I have learnt a lot along the last weeks. :hat:

I will need to cut off the headers pins and solder all the wires, because using plugs this way makes it impossible fitting the stuff between the two halves of the model.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Ok, I already know how to make the 3 servos go to a position A and return to B automatically, pressing a button on the RC. Sorry for not posting a video. I don't know why I can't make them play on Photobucket in order to post a link here.

Next step will be how to make them spin to position A and stay there waiting a new command. Then, pressing a button again, they should go to position B, and so on.

I am almost there.

With that stuff done, I will have to synchronize the servos movements with the LEDs.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe
> 
> Here you have two images that show what I have done.
> 
> ...


https://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/IR-RemoteControl
http://www.ebay.com/itm/433MHz-4-Ch...ule-IC-2272-/200956961647?hash=item2ec9f7e36f

Hi Fernando,
I'm soooooooo very sorry for taking this long to reply, I hope I can help....
I used a 433MHz setup, not IR, with an RF radio I didn't need any hole for the IR light to reach the receiver, just a thought.... The link above should help with your sketch.....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe

Thank you again. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

It seem that I will have to use an arduino nano board after all, because the guys there at Pololu forum said that their Maestro board doesn't accept IR signal as a valid input.

So, the Micro Maestro will serve just as a servo controller board.

I had to stop the project for a while due temporary difficulties at my job, but I hope to resume building next weekend. :wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

After almost 2 month out of the hobby, again due to my job, I resumed this project studying a LOT about microcontrollers, servo controllers and so on.

I had a hard time trying to understand why I couldn't upload a sketch to my arduino pro mini. It took several hours along two or three days until I figure out and solve the problem. :freak:

Now I am making some tests and trying various prebuilt sketches to see which of them is closer to match my needs. Then, I will customize it to do exactly what I want.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Teslabe, are you there?

I sent you a PM.

Thanks.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-channel-S...irplane-Car-/251931043452?hash=item3aa842a67c
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-4...906468?hash=item5b0e7a17e4:g:6-8AAOSwEeFVBb4i

Hi Fernando,
I'm sorry for not following up sooner, my job has had me very busy and now with Christmas coming up soon, just hard to find any time......:drunk: But,
I did have some time over our Thanksgiving break and built up an example of the Ramp Servo/LED effects setup I did for my C-57D. As you can see, it's far simpler. I modified a "Servo tester" I got off ebay for about $3.00, by removing the potentiometer and replacing it with an R/C network, I could control how slow the servos moved as they raised and lowered the ramps. these servo testers can drive three servos and by adding the power leads to the bottom of the board, I could use the last set of pins for the Pololu Servo switch that controls the three LEDs for each ramp bay. Instead of an IR remote, I used a 433MHz transmitter/receiver that toggles the output each time you push the buttons, be sure you ask for "toggle" not "momentary".
I hope the post a youtube video in a week or two. I'll send you a PM shortly.......:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe.

Man, did you make everything again just to help me?   

I'm sorry. I'm very embarrassed. You should not have bothered yourself going so far. 

Anyway, well... I have no words. Thanks a lot, my friend. I will try to make justice to your gentle help. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I'm going to buy those electronic parts, but since they are from China, they will probably take 40 days to be delivered to me. :freak:

Mean while I will study your setup and will try to make mine getting to work also, just because it should.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

If you don't mind, from now on I will keep the discussion here, in order to help whoever else can be interested in build your setup, ok?


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Merry Christmas Fernando, hope you and your family had a great day and have a Very Happy New Year......:wave: I hope this video and and pictures help with your build, let know if you need anything else.....

https://youtu.be/q8D7XB7LBiE


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

teslabe said:


> Merry Christmas Fernando, hope you and your family had a great day and have a Very Happy New Year......:wave: I hope this video and and pictures help with your build, let know if you need anything else.....
> 
> https://youtu.be/q8D7XB7LBiE


Hello, my friend.

I have no words to express my gratitude to your ever present gentleness. I wish you and your family a 2016 full of joy, health and serenity. :wave:

As for my project, thank you again for your invaluable help. :thumbsup:

Unfortunately, I didn't receive the radio control and other parts I bought at eBay. I think it will last three more weeks to arrive.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

This project is amazing! I love the thought and energy put into it.....now this is creative modelling! BRAVO! :thumbsup:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hello, my friend.
> 
> I have no words to express my gratitude to your ever present gentleness. I wish you and your family a 2016 full of joy, health and serenity. :wave:
> 
> ...


Thanks Fernando, happy to help....:wave:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hello folks.

I resumed this project with a different approach thanks to the invaluable Teslabe's advices. I will start to post pictures here soon with details on how to do what Teslabe has said us to do. Not that the pictures and videos posted by him are not enough to teaching, but it is because I am a sick maniac for details as those who already have seen my other projects may know.

Thanks for your patience.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe!
Are you there? I sent you 3(!!!) PM.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe!
> Are you there? I sent you 3(!!!) PM.


Hi Fernando, just replied to your PMs, I don't come to HobbyTalk that often, I don't like the way it is anymore.
Can't post pictures easily, like before and I don't use photo hosting sites, so not fun to post here.....:freak:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe.

I saw your replies, thank you. I still have one or two things to clarify, and will ask you for help soon. 

About the difficulties to post pictures and videos here from an external host, as you and others have mentioned, I have experienced no problem posting images from photobucket and videos from YouTube, simply coping and pasting the links here.


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## Newbie123 (Sep 7, 2016)

teslabe said:


> I don't come to HobbyTalk that often


Teslabe - long time fan here. Looking for a new home myself. Have you gone anywhere else? I'd follow you anywhere sir, as the Sutherland Hawkeye once said.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe!!

Right now I am working in two sistems: one for the legs deployment (a copy of yours) and another for the engine effect (trying to do it on my own). :wink2:

I have two questions about your circuit, if you don't mind: :grin2:

1) the receiver board that I bought didn't came with the big antenna which we can see in your images. I suppose that your board didn't come with that antenna either and that you built it with copper magwire, didn't you?

2) as far as I understood, the two resistors on the modified servo tester board controls the pitch of the servos to open and close the landing legs, right? So, could I change both velocities (to the open/close movements) simply changing the resistors? 

Thanks a lot!!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Newbie123 said:


> Teslabe - long time fan here. Looking for a new home myself. Have you gone anywhere else? I'd follow you anywhere sir, as the Sutherland Hawkeye once said.


Hi Newbie, thanks for your support......:wave: I've not found anyplace as nice as HT once was, but I'm still looking......


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe!!
> 
> Right now I am working in two sistems: one for the legs deployment (a copy of yours) and another for the engine effect (trying to do it on my own). :wink2:
> 
> ...


Hi Fernando,
Here is where I got the 433MHz antennas that you see on my receiver.
10pcs 433MHz Helical Antenna Good Quality | eBay

As for the servo tester hack, it is just a very simple hack and as I mentioned in the PM reply, I don't recommend changing the value of the parts I used, it may not work and could damage the tester.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Ok. Thanks buddy! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I succeed with the circuit to open and close the landing legs using the pushbutton on the servo tester board. Today I will test it again, but this time using a 433 Mz remote control. Than I am going to assemble everything on the kit. 

I am taking pictures of each step and will publish a detailed step by step sequence of images as soon as possible.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I succeed with the circuit to open and close the landing legs using the pushbutton on the servo tester board. Today I will test it again, but this time using a 433 Mz remote control. Than I am going to assemble everything on the kit.
> 
> I am taking pictures of each step and will publish a detailed step by step sequence of images as soon as possible.


FAN5646S700X Fairchild Semiconductor | Integrated Circuits (ICs) | DigiKey

Hi Fernando,
That is great news, I'm not only happy for you but also very impressed with your abilities, nice work......:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
As far as the engine effect, I can't find the schematic for that circuit I used, but this slow LED flasher looks better IMHO, just be aware, they are very small......:surprise:
They are what I used in my B-9 brain for the three top lights/LEDs, hope you like the effect.....:wink2:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe!

My God! This robot is a master piece! One day I will make mine like yours, except for the mobile claws (this would be too much for me). The robot will be my last build in a series which I am making in my learning curve.

Back to the C-57D, I succeded in making the circuit to work with the remote control, just like you did on the video you posted in this thread. Thank you so much for the invaluable help.

Thank you also for the link sugested, but I already made a little circuit for a slow fade in and out.

I am testing a sequence using a Pololu micro maestro 6 channels to drive this circuit I mentioned, the leds provided with the kit, as well as the servo.

My intention is to make the following to happen:

1) system off
2) the 3 blue leds of my circuit start fading in and out slowly
3) the servo begins running
4) the 3 blue leds turn off and the red leds issued with the kit turn on
5) the servo stops and the red leds turn off
6) the 3 blue leds start fading in and out slowly
7) sistem off

The toggle between the steps will be made using a magnet over a magnetic reed switch.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks!

The pictures that I will show on the following posts detail the making of Teslabe's circuit, which allows the deployment and retracting of the landing legs with the use of a remote control, like in the video he posted some posts above.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


>


Good work Fernando, but I must correct you on the value of one of the resistors......:surprise:
It's not 470 ohms, it's 47K ohms (47,000), check it with your Volt/Ohm Meter, looking at the
color bands it does look like you have the right value......:thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe. 

You are right, thank you. I made a mistake because I used the 470 ohm on my fade in and out circuit. 

I will modify the image and replace the wrong one.

Again, thanks for your help.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Correction already made on the first image of post #57.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The next two posts will be a picture of the entire system assembled for testing (explained with complete details) and a short video of the thing working.

Stay tuned.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Note, please, that the author of the above circuit is Teslabe, not me. So, all credits and applauses to him.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Here is how it works. Thanks Teslabe!!

The very big resistor you can see on the Servo Tester is the first 100K ohm resistor which I bought on the Internet. I was startled when it arrived. I had never seen such a huge resistor. Then, I had to buy others of normal size.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The next step is to make the mechanism to transmit the servo motor torque to the landing legs. You can see from the pictures that the axles of the servos and the legs don't align vertically. It is impossible to do that due the position of the legs' axles which are flush with the saucer interior surface. That means that you can't simply glue the legs' levers to the servo mount arm. 

My solution was to build an arm with a slot, inside which a rod attached to the servo arm can slide freely. 

First of all, cut the spring suport as shown.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I used the material below to make the mechanism.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

And here is what it looks like.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Cut off this part of the motor case to make it easier accommodating the motor in place and find the best position to it relative to the levers.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Then, fix the rod into the third hole of the servo mount arm. This position is important to allow the lever making the leg to deploy all the way down and retract until it is flush with the hull external surface.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Before gluing the servo in its definitive place, take your time to patiently do several tests, calibrating the mechanism until find out the best position for the motor, which is that in which the leg will go all the way down and up, closing firmly.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

You must do that for each motor. After having all of them glued, you can face the problem of how to make room to accommodate all the electronic paraphernalia. That is what I will show in pictures, soon.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Before gluing the servo in its definitive place, take your time to patiently do several tests, calibrating the mechanism until find out the best position for the motor, which is that in which the leg will go all the way down and up, closing firmly.


https://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-Plastic-Binding-Diameter-52325/dp/B0000DBMDT

Fantastic job Fernando.....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Just a suggestion though, I didn't do a hard connection between the servo and the landing ramp arm, I used a 3/8" binding comb, just one loop as a spring, so
the servo could overshoot and not brake the landing ramp's arm. Just a thought....:wink2:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe!

Yes, I tried to copy your idea, but I had problems. First, I thought the material was a piece of a metal strip and tried to do this by cutting a piece of photoetch sprue. It is malleable, but obviously has no elasticity and, once it has been forced, does not return to its original conformation.

Furthermore, I must have made a mistake in the preparation and assembly of the landing legs, because two of them doesn't move freely down by their own weight until the end of their courses. That would be a premise to use the mechanism that you envisioned. So I needed something that forced the landing legs both down and up.

Although only one engine is experiencing the problem to force the landing leg lever beyond its normal course when retracting it, which I intend to solve, I have no hesitation in recommending his method to whoever build this kit provided that be ensured the free movement of the landing legs.

Thank you for be following the thread and giving me advices. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Bellow, a video of the test I made with the landing ramps circuit. This is essentially the same effect that Teslabe showed in his video posted earlier in this thread.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

After glued the elements of the circuit to control the landing ramps, this is the electronic/mechanic scheme so far.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I am working on the circuit to make the nuclear reactor FX. It is 80% ready, including the script to be recorded in the Pololu Micro Maestro 6 Channel servo control. 

The only problem yet to be solved is receiving a RC switch bought from Pololu, to be placed between the Maestro 6 and the DC motor that comes with the Polar Lights Deluxe kit.

After several try and error tests and consulting the Pololu's Forum, this was the only way I found out to provide the necessary voltage and current to the DC motor.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The Maestro 6 will control the LEDs and DC motor which come with the kit and three additional blue LEDs that I implemented to make the effect I desire.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I will explain everything in details, like I did until now, with several pictures. I will also post here the script to be used with the Maestro 6.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Waiting for the RC switch I,ve bought from Pololu. 

I chose the USPS's cheapest international shipping option and now my guess is that I will have to wait a lot, since the Brazilian Post Office is not any better (in fact, more slow than a tetraplegic turtle). My fault.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The RC switch has just arrived.

Wow, it took only 21 days since I bought it and chose the cheapest fare available to ship the thing (no irony intended here)!!!

The USPS and the BrPS are improving their work processes.

Let's resume the kit's build.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Ok. I have set up the circuit and made a test and everything worked perfectly. 

I am making a video and a image of the circuit before mounted on the inner lower hull, with instructions, just like I did for the landing ramps circuit. 

I think I will post the video and image tomorrow. 

Then, I will finish the electronics and close the two halves of the hull.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

One of the three blue LEDs of my engine effect circuit burned just when I was recording a video. 

It was already glued in place with epoxi. So, I have some work to do here. 

It was the second blue LED that burned in this project. 

Something is telling me that I will have problems with this stuff. 

Better figure out a way to get the two halves closed with magnets.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> One of the three blue LEDs of my engine effect circuit burned just when I was recording a video.
> 
> It was already glued in place with epoxi. So, I have some work to do here.
> 
> ...


Fernando,
It sounds like the resistor value might be too low for the voltage you're running them at. What's the voltage of your engine effect circuit?


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe. Thanks for your concern. The circuit where the blue LEDs are connected to supplies 1.5V maximum (on the peak of the fade in) to the LEDs. 

So, my guess is that I am having bad luck with them. 

I already changed the burned LED and put the circuit to work all night long to see if something happens. 

Meanwhile, I saw that the voltage sent to the DC motor is not enough and sometimes it can't begin running, unless with a help from me spinning the axle a little. 

The original circuit board that comes with the kit has a smd resistor of 300 ohm to protect the motor. When I detached the motor from the circuit I connected it to a 330 ohm resistor, because it was the one closest to the original that I had and I thought that this wouldn't be a problem. 

Maybe I am wrong. 

I also connected a tantalum capacitor in parallel to the poles of the motor to avoid causing oscillation on the LEDs when the motor turns on (which was happening). Could this possibly be the cause?

Thanks


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Fernando Mureb said:


> Hi Teslabe. Thanks for your concern. The circuit where the blue LEDs are connected to supplies 1.5V maximum (on the peak of the fade in) to the LEDs.
> 
> So, my guess is that I am having bad luck with them.
> 
> ...


Fernando,
Blue LEDs need at least 3.5 [email protected] to light properly, I'm surprised any of them worked at 1.5 volts, check the one you removed with 3.5 volts or above (add a 330 ohm resistor) and see if it will light.:wink2: It also sounds like the motor is also running at far less then optimum voltage, try it without any resistors, they are there in the original circuit to deal with the battery's voltage and to slow it down.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe.

Thanks for your quick response.



teslabe said:


> Blue LEDs need at least 3.5 [email protected] to light properly, I'm surprised any of them worked at 1.5 volts, check the one you removed with 3.5 volts or above (add a 330 ohm resistor) and see if it will light.:wink2:


As always, I copied the circuit board which makes the LEDs to fade from somewhere online. It suplies the three LEDs and they work fine. Don't ask me how, for I'm just an imitator with regards to electronics. :grin2:

But, lighting a LED with a voltage much below the adequate level could damage it? :frown2:



teslabe said:


> It also sounds like the motor is also running at far less then optimum voltage, try it without any resistors, they are there in the original circuit to deal with the battery's voltage and to slow it down.


Yes, the applicable battery for the circuit board issued with the model must be 9V and this is the one I am using to run the motor. That is why I connected the 330 ohm resistor to it. Maybe I can try it with a 270 ohm before going downtown to buy a 300 ohm resistor?  I was afraid to do this.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi Teslabe! 

I have just tried the motor with a 120 ohm resistor and it worked perfectly! 

Thanks for the advice.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I will post a video soon.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Ok. Here it is. Sorry for the poor quality.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Now I am going to glue everything inside the lower hull. Then I will consider whether I should use or not magnets to close the two hulls. After that I will make another video with the C-57D finished.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I glued all the elements of the various circuits in place and made a test. Everything went well, except for the motor's spining velocity. The 120 ohm resistor made the motor spining too fast. In fact, so fast that one can't see the rotor's fins. So, I'm gonna change the resistor for one maybe with 270 ohm or so. I will make a try and error experience.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Well, the 300 ohm resistor prove to be the most adequate to make the motor to spin in the appropriated velocity. In other words, the guys whom built the original kit's circuit knew what they were doing.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

I had another problem. Two motors began to make a strange noise when in their uppermost position, as if they couldn't reach the final point of their course and were forcing the landing ramps' levers.

This was the second bad news in a roll. The good news is that these problems are happening BEFORE I glue the hulls together. 

Curiously, the noise had never happened when I made the several (and I mean A LOT OF) tests with the motors before glue them into the lower hull.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

The noise was indeed being caused by the motors difficultie to reach their final position retracting the landing ramps. 

I am making some corrections on my mechanical scheme and if it works I will publish pictures explaining the corrections.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks!

This is the final assemblage of this project. As soon as possible, I will post a link here to a video on YouTube.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

As I have mentioned here before, I had problems with the mechanical solution I came up with to engage the servos arms and the landing ramps levers to make them deploy and retract.

Before continuing, I would like to say to those whom are going to build this thing that you should stick with Teslabe's solution. It is simpler and as effective as mine.

You might be asking yourselves "why then he did insist in making the mechanisms like that"? The answer is: because I am masochistic, stubborn and proud (in the arrogant sense).

So, I rebuilt the levers with a more lengthened slot,...



...opened in the end, to allow the motors continuing their spin until reach the end and, at the same time, forcing the ramps to shut and open completely.



To do this, I glued the levers with the ramps closed, having care to keep the extremity of the levers opened and tensioned with their right sides leaning on the arms pins.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

Hi folks!

I am sorry for the delay, but I have had some problems with my job and, besides, couldn't decide yet how to deal with the hull closing process. So far, I have the two halves joint by 8 clamps waiting for a decision whether they are to be glued together or closed with magnets.

However, I made a video of the landing ramps and engine combined FX. This video was made in a very dark ambient to help showing the engine lights. I will make another one with better lighting conditions.


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)




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