# B-9 Paint/Build Suggestions Needed



## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I thought I'd start a thread on some immediate-need issues I see as I begin the build process. Please feel free to list your helps/questions/tips here. 

Please no mean stuff. Just constructive ideas only on this thread. 

I'll start with the elephant in the room: 

Since no paint brands are called out on the instructions, I wonder what Moebius used in those promo pics? I'd love to know at least the main body and vinyl leg brands/colors they used. Anyone know? I may shoot a private message to them on there Facebook page and report back.....

Here's another Dusie: how does one go about masking that ring on the bottom bubble ring (part # 74) in order to paint it silver? You're supposed to paint it from the inner and outer side. Interestingly, it only has one hard edge to tape on either side. So there is no line to follow. 

Thanks!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

funny you should mention that

I'm thinking a nice circle paint template would work there


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## rondenning (Jul 29, 2008)

On mine, I plan to paint the bottom circle of the bubble with the flat aluminum color, the brain cup sits on top of the inner circle with the 4 small screws of the circle fitting into the 4 holes on the bottom of the brain cup. So I will paint the 4 screws(nuts actually on the inside of the bubble) silver, and also paint only the edge of the circle silver since that is all you will see of the inner circle once the brain cup is in place.:thumbsup:
Ron


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

kdaracal said:


> I thought I'd start a thread on some immediate-need issues I see as I begin the build process. Please feel free to list your helps/questions/tips here.
> 
> Please no mean stuff. Just constructive ideas only on this thread.
> 
> ...


Not sure I understand the "problem" with the bottom of the bubble. Mine is raised on both the inner and outer surface, making masking easy.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

It wasnt always silver either...


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

djnick66 said:


> It wasnt always silver either...


In early 1st season publicity photos, this mounting plate is indeed brass colored. That is how I plan to paint it on my current 1st season build.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

The instructions for the Lost In Space, VTBOTS and the new BSG have in the past had callouts for Model Master paints. Hope that helps.
As for me I plan to airbrush my B9 Tamyia flat aluminum, simply because it looks more realistic than the MM color.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

kdaracal said:


> ... how does one go about masking that ring on the bottom bubble ring (part # 74) in order to paint it silver? You're supposed to paint it from the inner and outer side. Interestingly, it only has one hard edge to tape on either side. So there is no line to follow.
> 
> Thanks!


Part #74? That must be a typo. This kit only goes up to part #70 (the vinyl "shin & calve" section). :dude:


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

RSN said:


> In early 1st season publicity photos, this mounting plate is indeed brass colored. That is how I plan to paint it on my current 1st season build.


Cool idea. I like it.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I used tamiya silvers over tamiya white primer...No texture just shiny paint...lol

I didn't worry about masking the silver part of the dome..you cant see it whrn the brain thingy is attached.

Steve


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> funny you should mention that
> 
> I'm thinking a nice circle paint template would work there


Who the heck would suggest an all circle mask set? That guy must be a maroon.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

RSN said:


> Not sure I understand the "problem" with the bottom of the bubble. Mine is raised on both the inner and outer surface, making masking easy.


On mine, the _exterior_ lower bubble part has a ring with only one raised edge. The raised edge tapers smooth to the other side. 

The _interior_ of that same part has only one side raised (opposite edge) making it *appear* to be physically raised on both sides of the ring. 

Bottom line: neither exterior or interior had both sides maskable with a hard, raised edge.

RSN: I'm making myself dizzy.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

steve123 said:


> I used tamiya silvers over tamiya white primer...No texture just shiny paint...lol
> 
> I didn't worry about masking the silver part of the dome..you cant see it whrn the brain thingy is attached.
> 
> Steve


Surely that thin, outer ring would show up pretty good?? I'm confused. And I'll stop calling you Surely.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

kdaracal said:


> On mine, the _exterior_ lower bubble part has a ring with only one raised edge. The raised edge tapers smooth to the other side.
> 
> The _interior_ of that same part has only one side raised (opposite edge) making it *appear* to be physically raised on both sides of the ring.
> 
> ...


You must have a malformed part. I just checked mine for the 3rd time and both the inside and outside disk have a hard, raised, edge all the way around.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

the ring that the sensor ears swivel on seems to be shinny polished metal in the center and flat on top and bottom


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)

*collar*

not sure how to mask this off, I plan to use chrome paint in the center and then flat top and bottom


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

woof359 said:


> the ring that the sensor ears swivel on seems to be shinny polished metal in the center and flat on top and bottom


On the costume, that is actually a different color from the body in the color episodes. It is the same gunmetal color as in his chest recess. The "ear" stalks are the same dark color as well.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

RSN said:


> On the costume, that is actually a different color from the body in the color episodes. It is the same gunmetal color as in his chest recess. The "ear" stalks are the same dark color as well.


 
Thanks for verifying that it's gunmetal, Ron. I painted the chest recess in gunmetal, but thought it looked a little too light and had been considering re-painting it a dark grey (bottle Tamiya "NATO Black", which I used on the treads), because that's closer to what it always looked like on my TV screen. It will remain gunmetal. :thumbsup:


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Seaview said:


> Thanks for verifying that it's gunmetal, Ron. I painted the chest recess in gunmetal, but thought it looked a little too light and had been considering re-painting it a dark grey (bottle Tamiya "NATO Black", which I used on the treads), because that's closer to what it always looked like on my TV screen. It will remain gunmetal. :thumbsup:


That is what the builders of full size Robots are going with. As always, if it does not look right in this scale, paint it how you think it should be. I am going with gunmetal on season 2/3 build if it looks right, I thought it actually might look too dark?!!


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

I wrote a private message to Moebius about what colors/brands they used on that beautifil promo build up. They said a Tamiya product but would need to get back with me about specifics.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Note that Tamiya NATO black is really a green color. You might want to try Rubber Black, which has no green tint.

Tamiya Aluminum in a jar would be a decent match for the body, and it has a somewhat gritty texture. I will use Mica Silver in their TS spray series, and tone it down with clear flat.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

The picture that wolf359 shows has the ears not clear but colored. What season was this done?


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

starmanmm said:


> The picture that wolf359 shows has the ears not clear but colored. What season was this done?


 Seasons 2 & 3, when the show went from B/W to Color. B-9 received an overall re-painting to make him more "vibrant" and eye catching for the viewers.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I'm one of those guys who will think about the 'best way' to do something before actually starting the project. This is why I have kazillions of models 'barely started' in my closet. 
The texture on the torso is one of those things, but I solved it within a week. I'm gonna prime the torso, THEN texture it with a tooth brush splattering some thickened gray paint. Finally a coat of thin silver so as not to obscure the previous texturing.


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## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Texture can be easily applied using a stiff nylon Testors wide brush and # 3582 liquid cement. begin by applying a good flow of cement in a small area, then using the nylon brush plunge the brush straight up and down on the surface rapidly till the surface starts to string. As the cement softens the surface, the brush will leave a rough texture behind. Keep doing this in small areas blending into previous areas until the entire torso is done


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## Fernando Mureb (Nov 12, 2006)

kitkarma said:


> Texture can be easily applied using a stiff nylon Testors wide brush and # 3582 liquid cement. begin by applying a good flow of cement in a small area, then using the nylon brush plunge the brush straight up and down on the surface rapidly till the surface starts to string. As the cement softens the surface, the brush will leave a rough texture behind. Keep doing this in small areas blending into previous areas until the entire torso is done


I do not have the courage to do this.:freak: Unless I had some three kits in spare, but it is not the case.


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## kitkarma (May 17, 2013)

Fernando Mureb said:


> I do not have the courage to do this.:freak: Unless I had some three kits in spare, but it is not the case.


My Uncle Herb taught me to step out of my comfort zone, but I practiced this technique on scrap plastic first. The procedure is VERY forgiving and can be easily blended into previously finished areas. I use this on my Armor kits or anything that needs a rough texture. Try this,.....as I said practice on scrap or sheet plastic until the desired effect is reached. Easy Peesy !


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

I like my comfort zone waaaaaaaaaay too much!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I don't get this I have 3 books and lots of DVDs of this subject.

Texture?... it's orange peel on the paint. Trust me, most guys won't have any trouble adding "texture" to their paint jobs. The robot didn't spray glue on himself and the roll arounf in sand. Please, before you think you need to add texture, just look at you paint job first..


Steve


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Or just rush the paint job.... that will give you that texture you were not wanting to have! :freak:


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

is there a guide to the color changes year to year, or (GASP!) a chronological list of color changes? 

I really want to do a 1st year version first. 
I have a few photos, but not the great color close-ups I'd like. 

I'm also thinking about those moving finger lights.... 
I "might" have an idea about those after I try some experiments. 
I'm thinking on rubber surrounds where they attach, kind of like a phonograph cartridge. 
They can be moved from inside with just a tilted circle on a brass rod. 
Sure its a teeny thing to fabricate, but perhaps I can figure it out.


*************************************************************************

Also, Every time I buy one of the GREAT Mobius kits I am even MORE impressed by the work and thought that they put into these kits. The Jupiter 2 was the best kit I ever bought, except for the new B9. I am completely blown away! The Seaviews, Chariot, and Flying Sub still impress me. With my background and 'skills' I HAVE to do a great job building all these wonderful kits. These kits have pretty much made up my mind to give up Model Railroading to devote much more time on all my plastic kits. Well, that and as I get older my eyesight ain't what it was for 1/87 scale when 1/6 is far more easy to see!


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## builder45589 (Mar 2, 2014)

Maybe it's just me, but the bottom of the front torso had a "ridge" on either side that prevented me from getting a good joint between the torso and the torso bottom.

I used an exacto to remove the ridge and I got a perfect seam between the torso sides and the bottom.

(I see several posts of out of the box builds that show how bad the seam can be - no disrespect intended)

I was going to post a link to the cybermodeler review that shows the problem (sorta) but I'm too new, sorry.

I only mention this because I haven't heard anyone else list it as a problem.


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## builder45589 (Mar 2, 2014)

Y3a said:


> is there a guide to the color changes year to year, or (GASP!) a chronological list of color changes?


It's my understanding that the biggest color changes came between season 1 and 2 (and then to infinity and beyond I guess).

Just to start things off, it's my understanding that season 1 had:


Clear ears, no color
10 clear buttons on the middle of the chest
Uh.. what have the Romans ever done for us?

I'd love to hear more about the differences because I'm thinking of doing a season 1 and a season 2


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

From top to bottom, here are the differences in colors from what you see in the color version of the costume:

1) All lights in the bubble are clear.
2) The connecting ring between the bubble and the bubble lifter is brass in some color publicity photos.
3) The ears are clear and slightly frosted and their stems and the housing they mount into are the same as the body color.
4) The recessed chest area is the same color as the body.
5) The 2 round chest lights are both white.
6) The 10 rectangular programming lights on the chest are pale yellow.
7) The arms and wrists are a light gray.
8) The claws are the same color as the body.
9) The legs and knees are light gray.
10) The treads are medium gray with light gray highlights.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

I have a late 1st year photo with Smith with beret, paintbrush etc, and an easel off to the right side and the feet look a little dirty to me. This will probably be my main source of documentation.


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## Y3a (Jan 18, 2001)

OH GASP!!! 
Having a close look at these photos of the 1st year B9, it looks like the photos need a "COLOR CORRECTION" . Has anyone else realized this?? I will get back to y'all after I discus these photos with my graphic designer buddies. *IF* the photos get corrected or whatever, I'll surely post them to all the hobbytalkers.


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## woof359 (Apr 27, 2003)




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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

In the first two photos, the arms and leggs look more like a rubber color than black. But then, that can be a lighting thing.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

starmanmm said:


> In the first two photos, the arms and leggs look more like a rubber color than black. But then, that can be a lighting thing.


The Robot's legs, arms and neck lifter were never black. they started out flat medium to light gray in season 1 and got as dark as metallic charcoal gray by season 3. :thumbsup:


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## DCH10664 (Jul 16, 2012)

I'm having trouble just locating some of the paints that the kit suggests for this robot. Like Medium Metallic Gray, Gloss Semi-Opaque White, And Flat Aluminum in a spray can !! Any ideas on where to find these items ???? Keep in mind I don't have an air brush. It's rattle cans and paint brushes for me.


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

I will be following this topic closely:thumbsup:


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