# 1967 Galaxie 500 NEED HELP PLEASE!!!!



## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

So I got this beautiful car but the window post needs some help. Out of my wheel house of expertise. My fingers just don't work like they used too .But I'm not giving up yet!!! 

Doing physical therapy 2-3 times a week!!! Arg!!

Does anyone here know where I can go to have this gem brought back to it's former glory .





p


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## slotcardan (Jun 9, 2012)

..........


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

slotcardan said:


> You could boil it.
> 
> Setup a large pot filled with water, boil it.
> 
> ...


ask bill hall...maybe he can guide you in the repair


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Yea Bill isn't taking anything in at the moment .Spoke to him. He has helped me plenty in the past. So I'm not gonna bother him .


Anyone else=???


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Yea Bill isn't taking anything in at the moment .Spoke to him. He has helped me plenty in the past. So I'm not gonna bother him .
> 
> 
> Anyone else=???


i thought i saw someone on facebook who had a site and was doing repairs for "x" amount of $$ per hour..if i see it again i will give the name to you..let me surf a bit and will get back to you in a day or so.
:dude:


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## MSwaterlogged (Feb 5, 2014)

Curious about the boil method. I have a rear spoiler on Toyota SG+ car that I had to get off as it was glued on crooked. Used a little heat and before I knew it, the spoiler warped! Anyone think boiling might help it, or because the heat caused it, it will just be droopy the rest of it's life.


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## slotcardan (Jun 9, 2012)

................


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Yea Bill isn't taking anything in at the moment .Spoke to him. He has helped me plenty in the past. So I'm not gonna bother him .
> 
> 
> Anyone else=???


well joe..i finally ran into the site on Facebook again..not sure if your on Facebook ..but luckily he had a phone number associated with his site.so here it goes..P.S. he does not do any major repairs requiring goop he says on his site..window post are what he is doing and small repairs.
R3 PANCAKE RACING AND RESTORATION
facebook site
PHONE..(717)463 2591
hope it will help you
dave:thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

wyatt641 said:


> well joe..i finally ran into the site on Facebook again..not sure if your on Facebook ..but luckily he had a phone number associated with his site.so here it goes..P.S. he does not do any major repairs requiring goop he says on his site..window post are what he is doing and small repairs.
> R3 PANCAKE RACING AND RESTORATION
> facebook site
> PHONE..(717)463 2591
> ...




Thanks. No I'm not on facebook. But I'll try to contact him


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*At a Glance*

Yeah I made a New Years resolution. No more SOE projects, until I complete all the incompletes that litter my workbench.

I'll kibbitz a bit here. I never advocate learning an in depth process on nice models. Heat is the enemy of plastic regardless of what form it takes. Certainly boiling is an alternative for plastic that has taken a bad set for whatever reason. Dan lays it out, but the subtleties cant be imparted. Dan is a seasoned pro with the supreme patience and expertise it takes to unfold a mutilated slot car body.

I always try carefully asses the model in question and try to use some objectivity. 

1. Excluding the damage you have a desirable model, mint looking XL 500 in a common color. Not a good example for OJT.

2. Unfortunately the damage is much more than just a vent post manipulation. This is where the boiling train comes off the tracks.

3. The roof has to be inspected and fixed first.

The nagging question for me is why would you subject a somewhat desirable, really nice, salvageable example to boiling? That would be like putting a 1:1 car on the frame rack and using one of rams to fix the vent post. Excessive from my perspective. The extent of the damage is actually the controlling factor. It's not bad as T-jets go, but it is significant that the damage has migrated into another panel; and because of which it's no longer a routine fix. To do it right, you'll have to fix:

1. The roof. No big deal, until you have to start tip toeing around the acrylic glass insert on the underside. 

2. The drip edge. Aside from the obvious cosmetic concerns, under the drip edge is where the vent post has to register. So you have to have the roof and the drip edge all set before you even think about approaching the post. This means filling, filing, sanding ... color blending the repair .... color sanding the roof .... and eventually buffing out.

3. The vent post. I just neatly s'nife ones like that out before starting any other work. It will just be in the way of fixing the roof and the drip line. 

4. Any scrap yellow donor will yield a scale mile of vent post material. When the window reveal is correct, a new perfectly straight vent post can be grafted in with very little fan fare; and virtually no difficult finish work after the fact, which is key in the tight quarters we're talking about. 

Based on that type of damage, "Pillars and Posts", I'd also be concerned about hidden cracks in the A-pillar. You dont always see them immediately. You'll hear a ticking or squeaking when your gripping the work piece to file or sand. So what was once just a vent post becomes a half a green house repair that would include glass removal. 

Hidden damage happens all the time!

In the case of just a damaged vent post with no other problems, we see folks just cut the offending ugly out. A pragmatic approach that keeps you from staring at the wart.


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## MSwaterlogged (Feb 5, 2014)

Thanks Dan, I may give that a try after I replace the car with a better one. At the moment it is not horrible, just a bit out of level. I was able to straighten it some at the time with a bit more heat, but was afraid to get to carried away.

Charlie



slotcardan said:


> that is a tough one some plastics can react differently. some can shrink.
> most of these old slot car bodies are ABS, some new ones are made of Poly and act differently.
> 
> depends on how much heat you used. water is going to be at 212F, if you used a soldering iron or heat gun you could of had over 500F of heat.
> ...


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Thanks. No I'm not on facebook. But I'll try to contact him


hey joe..did you talk to that guy ??i was wondering ..just want to know details and if i should ever recommend him in future,,i just found his advertisement on Facebook.ironic that you would need work..and i had seen that page..so let me know how and if you will use him
dave


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

*member?*



wyatt641 said:


> well joe..i finally ran into the site on Facebook again..not sure if your on Facebook ..but luckily he had a phone number associated with his site.so here it goes..P.S. he does not do any major repairs requiring goop he says on his site..window post are what he is doing and small repairs.
> R3 PANCAKE RACING AND RESTORATION
> facebook site
> PHONE..(717)463 2591
> ...


RalphIII ?


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## wyatt641 (Jan 14, 2012)

alpink said:


> RalphIII ?


is that who's number that is??i just saw the advertisement on facebook and forwarded it here.
:freak:


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