# Need help on Cfaftsman chain saw # 358.350480



## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

Hello everyone, I just signed up here as I found this site last night. I was seeking out schematics or pictorals that would show me how to R & R all the fuel lines on my Craftsman chainsaw-model # 358.350480 and could not find any.

I am mechanically inclined, but in this case I'm not sure how to get inside the gas tank and the other tight areas where all the fuel lines go. I was able to see inside the gas tank where the hole is and I carefully taking off the air cleaner housing and pulling back the carb about 1 inch I can visually see where all the lines are.

My question to you is is there a way to break this machine down more to be able to get my fingers in those hard to get areas. It was very difficult removing the plastic nipple inside the fuel tank. If I had a schematic that shows how to get at the necessary areas it would be nice.

My chainsaw is a 2001 model and I use it occasionally for home use. I went to start it the other day and the primer bulb cracked and broke. When I removed the air cleaner cover the element crumbled in my fingers. Then, I removed the primer bulb-(purge assembly) and both fuel lines literally fell apart.

I called Sears parts and was able to order all the parts I need. I just need to know if there is any way I can access the inside of the tank and around the carburetor when I get the new fuel lines to reinstall them.

I would appreciate any help and feedback anyone can provide. I've been a mechanic my whole life, but I have not worked on chainsaws or two-stroke engines. If I had a schematic with steps to follow it would be a piece of cake.

Thank you for your help.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

The model number indicates it is a Poulan product, you can is an IPL for the saw at http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par....pd?pop=true&modelNumber=358.350480&pop=flush 
However that isn't going to help you with the fuel lines. Draw a diagram or take a picture of the fuel line routing if it is not too late, everyone on here has their own method for feeding fuel line in tough places, as long as it works. First cut the end of the new fuel line at a sharp angle and tie some fishing line or thin wire onto the point of the fuel line, feed the fish line or wire into the tank, fish the line/wire out of the tank and pull the fuel line through until you can get longnose pliers on the fuel line and pull it through, square off the end of the fuel line and install whatever goes on the fuel line, the filter goes on the small line, then pull the filter/whatever back into the tank leave enough line for the filter to pick up fuel from any angle, the bigger line is the return and only needs to be in the tank a short way. Have a good one. Geo


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

I forgot to mention, if you removed the carb, check the gaskets between the carb and the block to see if they are damaged in anyway if so get new ones, these things are notorious for air leaks between the carb and block. Have a good one. Geo


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

Hi Geogrubb, Thanks for the info. I took off the 2 main lines and the small fuel line that goes to the carb. I can see most of the area as I removed the air cleaner housing & slid it back about 2". I didn't unbolt the carb. One question- the fuel filter in the tank- Is it supposed to slide into a slot in the tank? When I removed it I pulled it back, but I can't quite see exactly where it was in the tank. 

Thanks for your help. I will have the lines in 3 days.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

The fuel filter should "flop" around in the tank so it can pick up fuel at any angle. Have a good one. Geo


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

geogrubb said:


> The fuel filter should "flop" around in the tank so it can pick up fuel at any angle. Have a good one. Geo


Thanks. That was the only detail I didn't know. :thumbsup:


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

geogrubb said:


> The fuel filter should "flop" around in the tank so it can pick up fuel at any angle. Have a good one. Geo


Geogrubb, I got the parts today & was able to get the saw back together with 1 exception. In the tank the fuel line from the primer bulb goed into the tank through a very tight hole. Inside there's a plastic nipple with 2 open ends. It butts up 1/2 into the tank top & is supposed to fit inside the fuel line I pushed through the tank wall. Inside the tank it doesn't connect to anything else.

Two questions: 1) I need a pair of thin pliers that can go around the inside lip of the tank to re-insert the plastic nipple. The end of the plier jaws would have to be a 90 degree angle to get around the tank lip. I have to grab the nipple & force it into the tank's hole/inside the new fuel line. I have no idea what that tool would be called or where to get it. Do you know what tool I'm in need of?

2) Do I have to put the nipple back into the tank hole? I had a heck of a time just getting the new fuel line through the tank hole. It's a real tight fit. Would it be a problem if I didn't try to stick it back in the hole? 

The nipple is for the fuel line that feeds the primer bulb for the choke.

Thank you.


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## geogrubb (Jul 28, 2006)

The big line is the return line, the fuel is sucked up through the small line into the carb, through the primer and back to the tank. You feed the big line just like the small line, the nipple is inserted to keep the fuel line from being pulled out of the tank, the line only needs to be in the tank about 1 inch. Have a good one. Geo


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

geogrubb said:


> The big line is the return line, the fuel is sucked up through the small line into the carb, through the primer and back to the tank. You feed the big line just like the small line, the nipple is inserted to keep the fuel line from being pulled out of the tank, the line only needs to be in the tank about 1 inch. Have a good one. Geo


Hi, I got the long pliers today, but was unable to SEE in the tank hole with the pliers in there. So, as that particular line is only for the primer bulb I'm going to fire it up tomorrow- (If it still works). I have no idea how anyone can get into that tank and assert the nipple in the hole it came out of. I should have left it in there as it was alone sitting in the tank's hole.

I'm thinking of putting some epoxy/glue around the hole & fuel line on the outside of the tank. I'm tired of messing with the nipple. I have tons of hand tools and none of them will solve the problem.

It's a good thing that I only use the saw @ my home very occasionally. It has worked well until the primer bulb & fuel lines deteriorated. If it gets too unruly I'll dump it and buy a Stihl. I had 1 25 yrs. ago and sold it when I moved to FL. I should have kept it as it gave no trouble.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Easiest way to install the return line is from the inside of the tank out through the top. I use a piece of tie wire that I feed into the tank from the outside through the hole the line fits in, pull the wire out the filler opening and attach it to the return line where you have cut the angle as geo described. Attach the nipple to the other end of the line, then pull the hose back out with the wire enough that you can grasp it with some pliers. You should then be able to pull the line through the opening in the tank and plug it into the primer.

Best of Luck....


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> Easiest way to install the return line is from the inside of the tank out through the top. I use a piece of tie wire that I feed into the tank from the outside through the hole the line fits in, pull the wire out the filler opening and attach it to the return line where you have cut the angle as geo described. Attach the nipple to the other end of the line, then pull the hose back out with the wire enough that you can grasp it with some pliers. You should then be able to pull the line through the opening in the tank and plug it into the primer.
> 
> Best of Luck....


Interesting idea. I've never seen any fuel line go into & through a hole as tight as the holes in this machine. I used WD-40 in the hole and on the outside of the lines and the one with the nipple was an absolute B.B. So far I've spent over 4 hrs. messing with the 2 line that go through the fuel tank.

I was tempted to have someone do the job, but I try to save us money as we still haven't won PowerBall. I think if I ever have plenty of $$$ I'll just buy a new chain saw & hire someone to keep up this place. We live in the country and there aren't enough hrs. in the day to keep up with everything.

Tomorrow I have to service the garden tractor for the season and fire up the chain saw. I would like to move into a place where I have time to enjoy life instead of doing the many tasks I have to do here. However, I have no desire to have an HOA tell me what I can and cannot do 24/7.

Thanks for the advice.:thumbsup:


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The lines are tight so they will seal good. The fuel line once subjected to fuel and the heat of the engine will get a little hard and shrink, so when it's new it's pretty tight. If you still can't get it, let me know I can take some pictures detailing the procedure I use, perhaps it would help.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> The lines are tight so they will seal good. The fuel line once subjected to fuel and the heat of the engine will get a little hard and shrink, so when it's new it's pretty tight. If you still can't get it, let me know I can take some pictures detailing the procedure I use, perhaps it would help.


Hi, Yes, I would appreciate the pictures when you can send them. Are you using mechanic's wire? Thanks.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

walker1 said:


> Hi, Yes, I would appreciate the pictures when you can send them. Are you using mechanic's wire? Thanks.


I use tie wire, it's the type that is used for supporting plants. You can pick it up in 50' rolls from Home Improvement stores for a couple of bucks. A roll will last me for a couple of years, it's just like the wire tie on a bread wrapper, only you can cut it to length.

I will see about getting you some pictures on this procedure.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> I use tie wire, it's the type that is used for supporting plants. You can pick it up in 50' rolls from Home Improvement stores for a couple of bucks. A roll will last me for a couple of years, it's just like the wire tie on a bread wrapper, only you can cut it to length.
> 
> I will see about getting you some pictures on this procedure.


Do you mean the green stretch plastic rolls that Home Depot sells for tying up plants? If so, I have both sizes as we plant lots of things in our yard.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Perhaps, that is where I got my wire. It does not stretch though, it has a small wire inside the vinyl cover. I usually strip off about an inch or so of the covering to expose just the wire for attaching to the fuel line.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> Perhaps, that is where I got my wire. It does not stretch though, it has a small wire inside the vinyl cover. I usually strip off about an inch or so of the covering to expose just the wire for attaching to the fuel line.


Hi, I went to Home Depot today & picked up some nice wire- 22 gauge and very flexible. I was able to pull the fuel line through thr tank hole from the inside with some help from the wire and Mobil 1 oil coating the fuel line. I have the nipple on in the tank about 1" from the top of the tank.

I checked all fuel lines and made sure there were no kinks or bends. I re-assembled everything and pushed the primer bulb in. There had been gas in both lines to & from the bulb prevoiusly.

I pushed the bulb in and once again it stuck. I was able to get it back out, but it seems that something is not right. I have eliminated the fuel filter and lines as the culprits. Unless ther's something I'm missing perhaps the primer bulb is defective? Or like you said something in the carb .

I used this chain saw 1 week ago and it ran fine. All the trouble started when the primer bulb broke.

What do you think now? I'd hate to take the carb apart and find out nothing is wrong in there. I also don't have a carb kit on hand.

Can you tell me where the screen is in the carb and can I disassemble it without making more problems. Let me know your thoughts.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The filter screen in the carburetor is on the fuel pump side, usually the side with only 1 screw holding the cover on, take the pump cover off and you will see the screen. I think you should be able to access this part of the carburetor without removing from the saw.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> The filter screen in the carburetor is on the fuel pump side, usually the side with only 1 screw holding the cover on, take the pump cover off and you will see the screen. I think you should be able to access this part of the carburetor without removing from the saw.


I unscrewed the top of the carb and there was a small round screen. As soon as I unscrewed the top the primer bulb popped out. However, the fuel screen had no debris and I blew through it. I put the saw back together again and attempted to push the bulb in and it didn't pull any gas. Again it got stuck and I have checked everything you told me to to no avail.

I have had my fill of craftsman power equip.!! The very least one can expect from ANY product is for the darn thing to work when you need it. I was so bent I wanted to throw the saw onto the driveway and then deposit it into the trash.

Never again will a sears power tool enter this house. It's no wonder why sears is all but out of business with the other loser k mart.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

If the primer bulb released as soon as you took the fuel pump cover off, then that would indicated that the problem lies somewhere in the fuel supply hose and or filter. Since the type of primer that this saw is using actually sucks the fuel from the tank through the carburetor, once the cover was opened then the suction was freed from the carburetor to the primer. With the cover on, the suction has to also travel from the hose to the pickup filter and into the fuel tank.

Sears did not manufacture your chainsaw, it is made by the Poulan division of Husqvarna.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> If the primer bulb released as soon as you took the fuel pump cover off, then that would indicated that the problem lies somewhere in the fuel supply hose and or filter. Since the type of primer that this saw is using actually sucks the fuel from the tank through the carburetor, once the cover was opened then the suction was freed from the carburetor to the primer. With the cover on, the suction has to also travel from the hose to the pickup filter and into the fuel tank.
> 
> Sears did not manufacture your chainsaw, it is made by the Poulan division of Husqvarna.


Yes, I know about Poulan- I had a weed wacker that was their's and it went to the dump as it was garbage from day 1. 

This is how the fuel lines are routed @ this time: 1) Small line in tank with filter attached to it goes through tank into lower left side of carb- (just left of the 3 mixture/idle screws).

2) Large line with nipple attached goes through tank to primer bulb. 3) 2nd large line goes from bulb into carb on upper right rear side near the top- (close to the top with the phillips screw).

I did blow through the fuel filter before & it seemed clear. I will take it off and see if there is any change. 

So, the fuel goes from the tank to the bulb, then to the carb. The smaller line from the carb with the filter goes to the carb directly on the lower left side.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

No, I don't think you have it hooked up right. the small line with the fuel filter attached to it should attach to the carburetor near the top that you took off to look at the filter screen. 

The larger line that attaches to the side of the carburetor with the adjustment screws hooks up to the "Suction" side of the primer bulb, and then the remaining larger diameter line goes from the outlet side of the primer back into the fuel tank, this is the line with the nipple inserted into the end that hangs inside the fuel tank.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> No, I don't think you have it hooked up right. the small line with the fuel filter attached to it should attach to the carburetor near the top that you took off to look at the filter screen.
> 
> The larger line that attaches to the side of the carburetor with the adjustment screws hooks up to the "Suction" side of the primer bulb, and then the remaining larger diameter line goes from the outlet side of the primer back into the fuel tank, this is the line with the nipple inserted into the end that hangs inside the fuel tank.


Hello, You are quite right about the lines. As soon as I switched them around the bulb began to suck fuel like it should. What happened was when I went to take the original lines off they all fell off at once. I primed the saw and attempted to start it. It would not start. Perhaps I flooded it. I have a new spark plug in the saw and will make another attempt later on today.

I greatly appreciate your help. I'll let you know when I get the saw up and running.:thumbsup:


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

walker1 said:


> Hello, You are quite right about the lines. As soon as I switched them around the bulb began to suck fuel like it should. What happened was when I went to take the original lines off they all fell off at once. I primed the saw and attempted to start it. It would not start. Perhaps I flooded it. I have a new spark plug in the saw and will make another attempt later on today.
> 
> I greatly appreciate your help. I'll let you know when I get the saw up and running.:thumbsup:


It's been 3 hrs. since I tried to start the saw. I tried again and got no results. All the fuel lines are full. I checked the plug for gas- didn't find anything unusual there. Checked the electrical connectors- they seem dry. I checked the plug and saw it firing, so it has spark. 

I'm at a loss as to why it won't attempt to start. Before the bulb & lines broke it ran fine 1 week prior and was used with no problem.

The owner's manual doesn't help me. What are your thoughts?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Try priming the saw with a small amount of fuel directly in the throat of the carburetor and see if it will try to start. If it does then we may have something going on with the carburetor. Let us know what the results are.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> Try priming the saw with a small amount of fuel directly in the throat of the carburetor and see if it will try to start. If it does then we may have something going on with the carburetor. Let us know what the results are.


1) I primed carb- no results
2) I sprayed starting fluid in carb- no results
3) I primed saw with bulb 5 times- no results.

I talked to a tech @ Sears. He thinks the carb has either an air or fuel blockage somewhere. He also said this is common when new fuel lines are put on. He said Sears just dips carb in acid wash & rebuilds it. No specific price is quoted. 

We have brought some things to a repair shop nearby. They will give a free estimate & charge $60/ hr. Is $60/hr. high, low, or average?

Seeing that we know the saw has fuel & spark I believe the carb has a problem. What else could it be? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.:thumbsup:


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

I don't know what the going labor rate in your area is, but I charge $65.00 / hr for all my work.

The primer on your saw is actually a purge pump. It recycles fuel through the carburetor and back into the tank, so installing new fuel lines will not create a problem that pumping the primer a few time won't take care of. If priming the engine with fuel, starter fluid ect.. did not provide any results, then there is something else wrong with your chain saw. 

Regardless of a problem that may exist with your carburetor, priming bypasses this and if all else is good then the saw should start and run off the prime for a few seconds. There may be a massive air leak into the crankcase, or an ignition timing issue. If the shop will give an estimate for little or no cost, then I would have them look at it, but be clear on this aspect. Most shops including myself charge for estimates, particularly if any work is needed to properly diagnose the issue.

Best of Luck...


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> I don't know what the going labor rate in your area is, but I charge $65.00 / hr for all my work.
> 
> The primer on your saw is actually a purge pump. It recycles fuel through the carburetor and back into the tank, so installing new fuel lines will not create a problem that pumping the primer a few time won't take care of. If priming the engine with fuel, starter fluid ect.. did not provide any results, then there is something else wrong with your chain saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks, I'll let you know what was wrong & the cost when I get the saw back. I wonder- the chainsaw is 8+ yrs. old. It has seen medium occasional duty over the years, but is it worth putting $60-$90 into?

I don't really want to spring for a new saw @ this time. Time will tell.:thumbsup:


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Up to $75.00 maybe depending on the condition of the bar and chain. New saws of this type start at about $120.00


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> Up to $75.00 maybe depending on the condition of the bar and chain. New saws of this type start at about $120.00


The bar is good. I have 2 chains and they are both sharp. I will drop off the chainsaw next week when I'm in that area. It's about 22 miles from here. Have a nice weekend.:thumbsup:


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

walker1 said:


> The bar is good. I have 2 chains and they are both sharp. I will drop off the chainsaw next week when I'm in that area. It's about 22 miles from here. Have a nice weekend.:thumbsup:


Hello 30 year tech, I wanted to let you know how things turned out with the chainsaw. I dropped it off on May 20 and had to call three times including today before they even looked at. They back burnered me for 3 weeks. 

After telling them this morning three weeks is unacceptable to get an estimate and I was going to pick up the saw on Monday if I didn't get an estimate by the end of today they call me back with an estimate.

I was told that the saw was in need of a wrist pin, something to do with the flywheel, and other miscellaneous repairs that weren't stated. I asked the lady how much would this cost and she replied around $100. I then said I need a more precise number-call me back with it.

About 30 minutes later she called back and said it would cost $165 which I rejected immediately. I will pick the chainsaw up on Monday and possibly bring it to one more repair shop. However, I have great reservations about trusting anyone at this point in time. Here in Florida over 90% of mechanics are thieves. That shop I went to undoubtedly made up a bunch of stuff to pad the bill as times must be hard for them.

I am hard pressed to understand how a chainsaw that ran perfectly one week prior to replacing the gas lines and so on all of a sudden developed flywheel and internal mechanical problems. All I did was take the cover off and replace the parts we talked about.

It's most unfortunate that I can't find an honest shop. This is why I will never subscribe or use craigslist or any other list. It seems that with the recession many people that may have been honest have decided that money is more important than anything else. I do not subscribe to dishonesty in any shape or form and I have never been a money hungry pig.

Florida has always been known as a crook state and our politicians are proof of that. A few years ago I had a Ford fan and the A/C went out on it. I brought it to a shop and they tried to tell me it needed $900 worth of work. I had a bad feeling about them so I brought it to a garage that was recommended to me afterwards. It ended up costing me $75 for an item called in orifice.

I'm sure you can see why I have about a zero trust in any repair shops. In 20 years of living here I have found 2 honest repair facilities. They both were recommended to me by someone else.

Enough babble-do you believe that all those mechanical items could have gone bad after I ran that saw one week prior to the gas lines falling apart? I don't know what state you live in but I wish you were nearby. After reading your posts I believe 100% that you are an honest repair man.

Please let me know your thoughts and what you might do if this was your saw. Thanks.


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## Deathrite (May 21, 2009)

not to but in.. but $165 (least for us) would include ALOT of work and replacement of parts. when it got to $100 in a estimate i would have advised getting a new saw. was that estimite with or without labor added?

from reading this i can feel safe in saying that the rope pulls and there things seemto move inside the motor. i find it surprising that they took it down far enough to tell about the wrist pin. on chainsaws that can be a little time.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Well walker I would love to get my hands on your chainsaw and check it out for you. It does seem odd, that it was working alright one week and then it needs all this work. I will say, that sometimes it's not dishonesty but just an inept technician that does not know what they are doing. It sounds like they are doing everything, because they could replace the saw for what they are asking for the repairs.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> Well walker I would love to get my hands on your chainsaw and check it out for you. It does seem odd, that it was working alright one week and then it needs all this work. I will say, that sometimes it's not dishonesty but just an inept technician that does not know what they are doing. It sounds like they are doing everything, because they could replace the saw for what they are asking for the repairs.


Hi 30 year tech,

Problem Resolved!! I finally had some time to work on the chain saw today since picking it up from Jupiter Lawn and garden in Jupiter, FL. You might be surprised.... 1) I tried to start the saw- no results. I pulled the top cover off and to my surprise NO SPARK PLUG!! I left the saw with that place with a NEW plug. They were in such a big hurry to tell me I needed a $160 repair they didn't remember to put the plug back in the saw. ???

2) I wasn't going to throw the saw away based on their say so I proceeded to re-seal the carb gasket with some Permatex make a gasket. 

3) I waited about 24 hrs. and primed the saw. On the 3rd pull it started. It seems that there was a leak in the original gasket even though it looked fine. If I had to a carb kit would be next, but all is well.

I figured you'd want to know what the end result was as you spent quite a bit of your time with me, and your help was greatly appreciated!

Thanks again, Walker1


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

That's Great!!!

Glad to hear it's up and running again, Congrats.... :thumbsup:


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> That's Great!!!
> 
> Glad to hear it's up and running again, Congrats.... :thumbsup:


Hello30 year Tech, I have a minor problem with the c-saw. The place I brought it to for the estimate took off the 2 idle mixture screw caps off and forgot to put them back on. I was able to get them this last weekend.

The problems are:

1) The saw starts pretty good, but won't run at a high RPM- it just bogs and stalls. Now that I have the 2 plastic mixture screw covers I need to know where to set the 2 mix screws 1st. Then I will put the caps back on. I have no idea where to start as the saw stalls out when I'm trying to adjust them.

2) The other problem is if I try to turn the idle down the saw stalls out fast. I know the mixture screws probably are the cause, but I'm no expert.

Can you shed some light on this. Hope things are going good for you in TX. I have heard that TX is one of the few states that is doing OK with this recession. Have a good evening.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

walker1 said:


> Hello30 year Tech, I have a minor problem with the c-saw. The place I brought it to for the estimate took off the 2 idle mixture screw caps off and forgot to put them back on. I was able to get them this last weekend.
> 
> The problems are:
> 
> ...


Close the adjustment screws to seat. Do Not Tighten them, STOP when they bottom out! Back the adjustment screws out 2 complete turns each, this is a good starting point.

With the saw running open the throttle wide open and adjust the screw marked with an H in (clockwise) until the engine runs fast and smooth, then back out until it just starts to sputter a little.

Set the Idle speed screw for a fast idle, then adjust the low speed screw in until the idle speed increase and then falls off, then back the screw out a little to achieve a smooth idle, reduce the idle stop screw to slow down the idle to a point where the chain does not turn or creep when at idle. If the engine bogs or hesitates when throttled, open the low speed screw about 1/8 of a turn and test for smooth acceleration. Continue this procedure until you have good throttle response, you may have to reset the idle stop screw as adjustments to the low speed adjustment, will generally affect the idle speed.

Good Luck.... :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> Close the adjustment screws to seat. Do Not Tighten them, STOP when they bottom out! Back the adjustment screws out 2 complete turns each, this is a good starting point.
> 
> With the saw running open the throttle wide open and adjust the screw marked with an H in (clockwise) until the engine runs fast and smooth, then back out until it just starts to sputter a little.
> 
> ...


OK, I'll let you know how I make out. If I get it right, should I put the plastic caps on @ that point in time? BTW, How do you like Homelite chain saws? I looked @ 1 @ H-Depot yesterday for $159- Same cut and engine size as the C-man.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

The limiter caps are there to prevent the carburetor from being adjusted too much to affect emissions. I would not worry about reinstalling as they don't do anything but prevent adjustment of the carburetor, but that's entirely up to you. Homelite chainsaws are as good as anything in the price range. If you can afford to spend a little more, an Echo, Stihl, Redmax, or Shindaiwa would be a much better choice, but for the money they (Homelite) are alright.


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## walker1 (Apr 27, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> The limiter caps are there to prevent the carburetor from being adjusted too much to affect emissions. I would not worry about reinstalling as they don't do anything but prevent adjustment of the carburetor, but that's entirely up to you. Homelite chainsaws are as good as anything in the price range. If you can afford to spend a little more, an Echo, Stihl, Redmax, or Shindaiwa would be a much better choice, but for the money they (Homelite) are alright.


Hi 30yearTech, After doing the carb adj. to the c-saw I was able to get it to run pretty good & not bog or stall. I thought the plastic caps prevented the mix screws from moving due to vibration. You were saying I don't need to put them back on. As long as they aren't needed I'll put them aside.

We picked up a Homelite c-saw- # UT10580A. There's a 30 return policy @ H-Depot if I don't like it. My wife wanted to buy it. She figures the 8+ yr. old Craftsman saw will be good for light jobs and the new saw will be good for the heavy duty stuff.

The H-lite came with 2 chains and is the same size & cut as the C-man. It turns out that I have a H-lite weed wacker that's 3 yrs. old. It's very powerful and runs excellent.

So, we killed 2 birds with 1 stone: We got 1 c-saw running again and helped the economy by purchasing the new saw. Obama says we should stimulate the economy so I feel we did our part again.

Have a good day.


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## WRK (Mar 29, 2011)

*Better than wire for pulling fuel lines*

Thanks to all for help in replacing my chainsaw's fuel lines. A better way to thread the lines through the plastic block: Cut line on a bevel, and push a heavy thread (like coat or carpet thread) through the hose with a needle. Use the thread to pull the hose through. Worked great on the first try.
William


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## WRK (Mar 29, 2011)

Clearer: When I said "through the hose with a needle" I meant through the side wall of the hose that is exposed by cutting on a bevel.


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