# SMD LED lighting for commercial aircraft models



## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I recently came across a lot of YouTube videos concerning lighting jet passenger models with SMD LED lights. They always fast forward through the build, featuring the painting and putting components in, and the final result. But, so far, I haven't seen one going into detail about how the model is prepared for a tiny LED, nor how it is inserted, hooked up, and what electronics is used to make them blink in the appropriate ways. The topic is fascinating. But, there is no explanation on how to deal with the electronics, what should be used, power source, heat dissipation, etc. 

Anyone here have any notions about how to do this?


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I am not really talking about how to do the electronics, per se. Sorry for not being clear. What I am asking is how would you (anyone?) modify kit parts to add wing lights on a 1/144 scale passenger jet aircraft? Or put head lights on the front landing gear? Recommended LEDs? SMD? or just as possible?

I think using something like an arduino would allow programming of the sequences from what I have seen. 

If no one here has done that kind of build. When I do one, I will post it here.

Thanks!


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## S4Simon (Dec 24, 2006)

I just bought a kit from Europe which contains the computer, plus fibre optics, smds, electric motors, audio etc. Just trying to learn how to add all these bits to a 1/48 scale Lancaster. There's no real instructions just a suck and see - learning process. The kits that this guy produces can be used for a variety of aircraft, new and old.

A couple of pics from the weekend.


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## S4Simon (Dec 24, 2006)

Some more info on the kit.

This is where I purchased from.

https://www.dynamicscalemodeling.cz/

Enable translation to read.

The kit is well designed in that you can use it for twin prop / jet engine or 4 prop aircraft. There's 16 channels for lighting ranging from strobe to internal / external lighting. Plus you just add your own audio MP3 file via an SD card and it then just syncs everything up. Depending on what aircraft you're doing the guy who makes the kit will supply all the SMDs / fibre optics / LEDs + wired motors specifically for the model you're building. Kit also includes sound circuit board and speaker. You just need to supply an SD card with your sound file.

All you need is some good hand skills and planning to figure out how to install all the lighting and motors. In the photos above I've just drilled holes and hot glued the SMDs into the wings, and made grooved in the plastic to run the fibre optics.

Here's a short video of my board with no hardware attached, just shows the startup sequence. Light outputs are 1 to 16 (mixture of solid and strobe lighting) all sequenced to come on at intervals. The motors are wired in at the bottom left of the cct bd. I've gone all out and built a large diorama base and installed a cool start switch.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

S4Simon, thanks so much! What you are doing is cool. I like the pics showing how you are approaching this. I have a Boeing B-36 bomber that I am going to start on for my Dad's birthday. Seeing your motorized propellers.... *Light Bulb*!!!!


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## S4Simon (Dec 24, 2006)

Project pretty much finished last weekend. just a have a few minor issues with overheating parts and stuff to resolve.

SMDs are easy to deal with, but in future I would better plan out where they are going to go - to get a more diffused light, rather than super bright (in your face) light. Just needs better placement within the model.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Can you put some dull coat or thin wash over them to cut down on the light? :lurk5:


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## S4Simon (Dec 24, 2006)

The SMDs do produce a bit of heat. I suppose a dob of some silicon might do the job.

A couple of pics attached showing my lights. Underwing were SMDs and they look really good - super bright - as landing lights should be. Wingtip lights are the fibre optics which are just great. For the cockpit I put the main SMD under the pilots seat and it works just fine there - sort of reflects well. The one in the navigators spot is not hidden and therefore is super bright.

Considering this will be displayed at model shows under bright lights, I'm not too fussed. My main problem at the moment is overheating issues with the motor's resistors (when I use a battery pack as my power source). This weekend I'll be testing with 1 watt resistors.


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