# K't'inga 1/1000 sclae by Ugh Models



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*K't'inga 1/1000 scale by Ugh Models*

OK folks... time for my first Trek build in almost a frackin' year! Oh how I have missed it. 
Anyway, I have always wanted a 1/1000 K't'inga in my collection so when I saw the announcement from Ugh Models about their K't'inga...well... I knew the time had come. So I fired off a quick email to Erin at Ugh inquiring as to whether they would accept a money order for payment and they said, "Well, PayPal is preferred but,if that's the only way, sure I guess." So I replied "Say no more!" and payment was issued. A short while late it arrived in my mailbox. And here begins my build thread. Aren't you guys excited? I know I am...

The box.They spelled Ugh Models in Klingon... too cute by half... Klingons would probably hate that:

Box by trekriffic, on Flickr

Opening the box I found the instructions- one page front and back:

Clear and concise instructions for assembling the 13 resin parts included in the kit:

Instructions Front by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nice color guide for those wishing to paint the K't'inga as seen in Star Trek the Motion Picture:

Instructions Back by trekriffic, on Flickr

Care was taken to ensure the decals were not harmed by abrading with the other kit parts by wrapping them in wax paper:

Decal Pkg by trekriffic, on Flickr

Unwrapping the decals I noticed Ugh provided two choices for the bow photorp tube decal- a gold and a red option. Nice:

Decals by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bag'o'parts:

Parts Pkg by trekriffic, on Flickr

Command pod parts. Some very nice detailing here:

Command Pod Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

More to come!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Moving right along...

Very nice detailing on the warp nacelles:

Nacelle Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nice casting on the trefoil base. A hole for inserting a display rod will need to be drilled:

Stand-Neck-Hangar Deck by trekriffic, on Flickr

Beautiful casting on this part. No pinholes and very minor flash:

Engineering Hull by trekriffic, on Flickr

Parts fit is very good. I will still use brass pins to reinforce joint strength where flexing may occur:

13 Parts by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Nice kit! What is the cost?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Opus Penguin said:


> Nice kit! What is the cost?


$45.00 

Here's a link to their ordering page:

https://www.fpkclub.com/ugh-models/?page_id=204&model_number=UGH053

They have 3 left in stock.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Work continues...

Some Tamiya putty was used to fill small gaps between the side "radiator" pieces and the main housing:

Hangar Bay Housing by trekriffic, on Flickr

A small resin crumb had to be removed from the right side of the hangar bay doors and the area rebuilt with a small piece of sheet styrene: 

Hangar Bay Rear by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bow had a small pour stub I removed requiring use of strip styrene to restore some of the raised plating:

Pour Stub Repairs by trekriffic, on Flickr

A hole was drilled in the backside of the command bulb where it joins the neck boom and a brass pin was inserted using CA:

Brass Pinning by trekriffic, on Flickr

A mating hole was drilled in the neck boom to mate with the brass pin in the command bulb for added strength:

Hole for Brass Pin by trekriffic, on Flickr

CA was used to glue the two parts together with the brass pin reinforcing the joint:

Assembled Boom and Bulb by trekriffic, on Flickr

The dome was glued to the top of the bridge tower using Plastic Surgery CA glue. Regular Gorilla Glue CA didn't seem to work as well but it may be because I used too much glue:

Assembled Bridge Tower by trekriffic, on Flickr

Really nice detailing on the front of the command deck:

Assembled Command Pod-Boom by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

I was going to say that the pod isn't very accurate but it sure beat the heck out of Round 2's 1/1000 K'Tinga!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Round 2 has a 1/1000 K'T'inga? You sure you don't mean the one in 1/537 scale?

Here's my original release 1/537 K'T'inga build years ago:

Klingon K't'inga by trekriffic, on Flickr

Klingon K't'inga by trekriffic, on Flickr

Anyway, the detailing isn't perfect in this scale, certainly not when compared to photos of the studio model but, you are right, it's quite a bit better than it's larger cousin from Round 2. The suggestion of shapes is there but can be improved if one wants to make the effort. I suppose one could go all hog wild and try to add all the missing itty-bitty greeblies but I'm not sure it's necessary. You wouldn't even be able to see much of it from more than 4 or 5 feet away and even then you might need a macro lens on your camera to get decent closeups. 
I don't know... what do you guys think? Should I go all nutty on greeblifying this or not? I have great studio model references available on imgur to build this as either the Motion Picture or Quonos One version. Building it an accurate version of the latter would be even more complicated, especially at this scale. It's not just a different paint job, there are definite structural differences. More to add on (brass photo-etch) and much more work to modify parts.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

That was my point, R2 hasn't released one. Too busy taking surveys and ignoring the results I guess.


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Trekkriffic said:


> I don't know... what do you guys think? Should I go all nutty on greeblifying this or not?


I dare say that putting that effort in another 1/537 kit would be more rewarding.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

electric indigo said:


> I dare say that putting that effort in another 1/537 kit would be more rewarding.


I think you're right. Still, I know of a few things I can add that wouldn't be too much work.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Back at it...

Nacelle flash. Cleanup should be pretty quick using files and sanding sticks. Maybe a little putty here and there:

Nacelle Flash by trekriffic, on Flickr

Engineering hull ventral detail. The triangular frames near the front of the lower engineering hull are superbly detailed and cast. No pinholes and very little flash. Some tiny amounts of pink mold release residue here and there which was easily washed off:

Engineering Hull Ventral Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

How nice is this recessed stern detailing? Just takes my breath away how nice this looks up close to the naked eye:

Stern Detailing by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Worked some on the warp engines and the boom today...

Perfect Plastic Putty is a water based filler that goes on best in these thin joints using a syringe. After a minute the putty is smoothed using a cotton swab so only a little sanding will be needed:

Puttying Gaps with a Syringe by trekriffic, on Flickr

The joints were lightly sanded. Thin styrene strips were glued to the fronts of the nacelles to cover up where I had sanded along the mold line and a small void had been filled:

Engines Attached by trekriffic, on Flickr

The warp nacelles are not straight up and down when viewed from the front or rear. They bend inward thus helping give the vessel it's badass predatory look:

Engine Angles by trekriffic, on Flickr

Noticed something when I looked at the boom in relation to the warp engines. The kit tab at the base of the boom and it's mating socket in the engineering hull fit together well but the boom has a pronounced droop downward: 

Profile As Molded by trekriffic, on Flickr

What you want is for the boom to be in alignment with the warp nacelles as in this image:

ktinga_large_port by trekriffic, on Flickr

Removing the kit resin tab from the base of the boom allows you to align the boom with the warp nacelles. Fortunately the angle at the base of the neck is only slightly off so won't take much shimming to correct the angle. I will also be inserting a brass pin to strengthen and maintain alignment of the joint:

Profile Corrected by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

Looking great! Thanks for posting!


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

I am enjoying the build so far. Thanks for showing us.


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## RetiredMSgt1701 (Nov 17, 2015)

Steve, this kit looks excellent due to detailing and, of course, your build will certainly make it better!

I never fail to learn something when I read through your build threads! (i.e Perfect Plastic Putty in a syringe, alignment of the boom...) 

Your build is looking very good!

Keep going!

Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks for the encouraging words guys!

More pics!

Last night I started puttying around the base of the neck using some of my precious Tamiya Epoxy Putty. I've had this one carton going on twenty years now but it's the best stuff for joint strength IMO. It's workable for a few hours and has just the right amount of stiffness to allow you to do some nice sculpting with it:

Tamiya Epoxy Putty by trekriffic, on Flickr

Putty application. A dental tool is great for packing in and smoothing:

Putty Application by trekriffic, on Flickr

Not bad. Just a little more smoothing after the putty dries. Maybe smear a thin layer of Perfect Plastic Putty over the top for the final smoothing and sanding.
As you can see, there was a pretty good sized gap but it kept growing due to the fact I superglued it, broke it off, superglued it again, broke it off, scraped off the superglue, and glued one more time before I was satisfied with the alignment. The neck had to be level with the engines and also not angle off ever so slightly to one side or the other. Man what a job!

Lower Boom Joint Puttied by trekriffic, on Flickr

Upper Boom Joint Puttied by trekriffic, on Flickr

The base of the neck with it's relatively large gaps due to having to realign the angle of the boom required insertion of three brass rods-one in the center and one on each side of the neck. The side rods were inserted into tunnels drilled diagonally thru the sides of the neck and into the engineering hull. The visible ends of the rods will be covered with styrene strips to hide them from view:

Brass Pin by trekriffic, on Flickr

The neck boom joint is super strong at this point. That baby's head will not loll from side to side like a newborn's ever. 

OK. Some fun shots now...

Yeah. Now that's what I'm talking about! I loves me some K'T'Inga!

Profile Below by trekriffic, on Flickr

Bow On by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

I like that it has the three cargo doors on the port side manta.

Any plans on disruptor pods underneath the forward edge of the manta?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Getting back to the matter at hand...

You know how sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees? Well, after looking at the last pic above, I realized the neck was tilted up and to the left! So I resolved to break the neck and reposition it. Finally I got it right!:

Revamped Neck by trekriffic, on Flickr

Veering off sideways as an aside, if you keep the syringe needle submerged in water you can use your Perfect Plastic Putty for weeks at a time without having to squeeze new putty out of the tube:

Perfect Plastic Putty Syringe in Water by trekriffic, on Flickr

Okay, back to boring stuff... 

I used a length of strip styrene to cover and reinforce the joints between the nacelle struts/winglets and the secondary hull:

Strip Styrene by trekriffic, on Flickr

The outboard facing sides of the nacelle struts are featured prominently in STTMP and the kit was inaccurate as to the plating so I sanded/filed off the kit detailing:

Removal of Material by trekriffic, on Flickr

Studio model image.This is what the outboard sides of the nacelle struts should look like:

Studio Model Outboard Nacelle Strut Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

A paper drawing was made matching the shape of the kit winglets to approximate what the raised hull plating shapes should look like based on the studio model images:

Paper template by trekriffic, on Flickr

Thin styrene sheet shapes were cut and trimmed before gluing to the resin nacelle struts:

New Nacelle Strut Plating by trekriffic, on Flickr

After priming the outboard sides of the nacelle struts and the plating looks great IIDSSM:

Nacelle Strut Outboard Plating Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

The disruptor emitters on the neck needed to be moved further back than they were molded. A Tamiya photo-etch saw was used to saw them off:

Slicing and Dicing by trekriffic, on Flickr

Also, I removed the smooth electromagnetic impeller grill plates and square "hatches" from in front of the hangar bay housing and replaced them with .010 spaced v-grooved styrene sheet and correctly shaped "hatches":

Before:

Engineering Hull by trekriffic, on Flickr

After:

Secondary Hull Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Secondary Hull Mods by trekriffic, on Flickr

After puttying and priming I hit the front edges of the grooved sections with a file and the result was very acceptable. 

Upper Seconary Hull Details by trekriffic, on Flickr

Jumping around...

The kit's hangar bay did not include the pieces I made in brass:

New Brass Bits by trekriffic, on Flickr

My mother-in-law referred to the photon torpedo tube as a "steering wheel". At that moment, I decided to rectify that:

Studio Model:

Ktinga Studio Model Detail 002 by trekriffic, on Flickr

The "steering wheel" was removed from the secondary hull central stern photorp tube:

Revamped Photon Torpedo Tube by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

A short length of square brass tubing was inserted into a hole drilled into the bottom of the secondary hull:

Mounting Point by trekriffic, on Flickr

Square brass rod is inserted into the square brass tube in the lower secondary hull:

Test Fit by trekriffic, on Flickr

The brass tube shown here slides into the brass tubing in the underside of the K't'inga:

Display Rod Tubing by trekriffic, on Flickr

The display rod is made from nested lengths of brass tubing and rod:

Display Rod by trekriffic, on Flickr

The K't'inga sits nice and level on the display base:

Nice and Level by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

publiusr said:


> Any plans on disruptor pods underneath the forward edge of the manta?


Those are already molded on.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

You're doing a really bang up job on this. Thanks for sharing!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Fozzie said:


> You're doing a really bang up job on this. Thanks for sharing!


Thanks Fozzie. Got some very fine piano wire at my LHS the other day, I'll be adding external ducts and conduits based on the studio model images on imgur. Right now I'm devoting some hours to cleanup of the nacelles. Lots of little small resin bits to dig out and smooth over then go back and reconstruct using Evergreen sheet, Plastruct tubing, and epoxy putty as needed. Once the nacelles are sorted I'll go back and add some detailing to the front of the secondary hull. There are some intricate shapes and forms on either side of the neck boom (see photo below) that I think I can create using some leftover photo-etch and plastic greeblies:

Ktinga Studio Model Detail 001 by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Been working a LOT on mods to the rear of the nacelles. Here's what I'm shooting for on the rear outboard side of each:

Klingon Ktinga Studio Model Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Some more work to be done but we're getting there. I added some small pieces of photo-etch screen:

Rear Nacelle Rework by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

A picture without the broken missing pieces_RICH


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

Port side..._Rich.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Oofdah! Looks like I have some more work to do!

Thanks a lot RICHjm. :thumbsup:


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## RICHjm (Jun 14, 2010)

Sorry...wasn't the intent ...just a picture...but hell I've seen your work done, you'll improvise just fine that I'm sure!...besides I'm following
your ideas to go along with mine so if I to do the copy I have._RICH.:smile2:
..."we think alike us two,both proud of what we can do for our ships"...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

RICHjm said:


> Sorry...wasn't the intent ...just a picture...but hell I've seen your work done, you'll improvise just fine that I'm sure!...besides I'm following
> your ideas to go along with mine so if I to do the copy I have._RICH.:smile2:
> ..."we think alike us two,both proud of what we can do for our ships"...


No, seriously, I appreciate you took the time to post the undamaged photo Rich. I'd rather take a little longer to get it right than not... right... did I say that right? 

Anyway, I just went ahead and dremeled everything out so I had a clean pallet to work with:

Cleaning Out the Kit Detailing by trekriffic, on Flickr

I made new boxes using some styrene U-channel and round rod:

Making the Outboard Aft Nacelle Boxes by trekriffic, on Flickr

Then I got busy with photo etch screen, brass fret material, music wire, and some styrene sheet and girder material. This is the aft outboard side of the starboard nacelle :

Outbaord Starboard Aft Nacelle Mods Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr

I brushed some Tamiya primer on. Man this camera does my work no favors. Still a little rough but she'll look better once I'm done:

Starboard Aft Nacelle Mods Brush Primed by trekriffic, on Flickr

The port nacelle got the same treatment:

Outboard Aft Port Nacelle Mods In Progress by trekriffic, on Flickr

Port side done:

Outboard Aft Port Nacelle Modifications Finshed by trekriffic, on Flickr

Next up... inboard detailing...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

So I started in on the aft inboard nacelle details using this photo of the studio model for reference:

Inboard Studio Model Nacelle Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here you can see how I bent the music wire at right angles using needle nose pliers to make the conduits for the inboard face of each nacelle:

Music Wire Conduits by trekriffic, on Flickr

This is the port inboard engine detail showing the mods made with styrene channel and photo etch brass screen. A single section of music wire was glued on with Gorilla Glue CA after the main mods were complete:

Nacelle Conduit Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here's the starboard side:

Nacelle Conduit Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

And the aft outboard face of each nacelle got two sections of music wire:

Nacelle Conduit Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nacelle Conduit Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

Now I'll move forward and start working on greeblies for the front of the secondary hull. This photo will show you what I'm about although the port side is missing some of the bits seen on the starboard side in this photo:

Ktinga Studio Model Detail 001 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Qa'pla!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

OK. So I decided I wasn't quite done yet with the nacelles. 

The kit molded inboard aft details... uhhhh.... not quite up to snuff, at least when compared to the K't'inga seen in STTMP:

Kit Details by trekriffic, on Flickr

So I removed all the kit detailing save for the pair of conduits up top:

Kit Details Removed by trekriffic, on Flickr

And thru the miracle of greeblies, styrene rod, and music wire I rebuilt the details in their true Klingon image:

Accurizing with Bits and Bites by trekriffic, on Flickr

Love Those Klingon Conduits by trekriffic, on Flickr

I find listening to the Godsmack Channel on Pandora gets me into the right Klingon modelling mood:

Lovin the K't'inga by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

So time for a little update... 

Not sure what to call these but they are a nice little detail on either side of the pedestal at the base of the neck.
I guess I'll call them "outriggers":

Base of Neck Outriggers by trekriffic, on Flickr

Brass and Styrene Outriggers by trekriffic, on Flickr

The Imgur album provided a nice closeup of an impulse engine vent:

Studio Model Impulse Engine Vent by trekriffic, on Flickr

I decided to add the grooves to the outside of each exhaust port so I covered the frames with .010 spaced v-groove styrene sheet as shown on the left:

Impulse Exhaust Vent Wrapping by trekriffic, on Flickr

I also added some PE mesh to the base at the back end of the shuttle bay housing. It was a really easy addition to a noticeably bare spot on the model:

Stern Lower Shuttle Bay Brass Mesh by trekriffic, on Flickr

Studio Model Stern:

oeDFH0J by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

The single straight resin post that split each impulse engine vent was removed. The new brass and styrene frame I'm making will be glued in the same spot for a more accurate "partitioner":

Splitter Removed by trekriffic, on Flickr

New partitioner frames. These thin frames were cut from rectangular brass tubing:

Impulse Vent Partition Frames by trekriffic, on Flickr

Square styrene rod pieces are glued with CA and trimmed to fit frames:

Square .010 Styrene Rod Added by trekriffic, on Flickr

The new impulse engine vents:

New Exhaust Vent Frame Partitioners by trekriffic, on Flickr

Stern Assed Beauty by trekriffic, on Flickr

I think I'm pretty close to the priming stage now. Can't think of much else I want to accurize on this beastie.

Thanks for following along. 

Qa'pla!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

OK. I decided I wasn't quite ready to prime this puppy. Just a few more things that begged for attention so here we go...

In the studio model photos I kept seeing this spear shaped detail along the spine that separates the two upper secondary hull magnetic attractor plates; at least that's what they are called in a set of blueprints I found on the web. So I trimmed some PE fret with surgical scissors and glued it in place along the spine:

Speartip Made from Brass PE Fret by trekriffic, on Flickr

The final parts are glued in place and the mods to the front of the secondary hull are complete:

Finally Done with Additions to Base of the Neck by trekriffic, on Flickr

The styrene bars, each with 4 short lengths of piano wire, are glued into locations just above the "outriggers" on either side of the neck:

Final Additions to Front of Secondary Hull by trekriffic, on Flickr

Photo etch screen is glued over a piece of square styrene rod to make the row of lights over the shuttle bay doors. A section of square brass tubing is glued into a hole in the stern just above the photon torpedo tube, AVES putty is then applied around the tube. This allows me to insert a display rod into the stern so the rod will not be visible from certain angles during photography sessions. Interestingly, the studio model has the same mounting port (albeit a rectangular one) in the same location:

Light Bar and Mounting Tube Added to Stern by trekriffic, on Flickr

This is the short display rod that slides inside of the longer display tube in the base. Perfect size for holding with your fingers. The short display rod is actually a small square brass tube inside of a round brass tube. The small square tube slides into the next size larger square brass tube mounted in the stern of the model:

Display Rod Inserted by trekriffic, on Flickr

Mounting Rod in Stern Mounting Point by trekriffic, on Flickr

The bridge as cast almost vertical sides whereas the sides should be sloped at an angle:

Incorrect Bridge Shape by trekriffic, on Flickr

Studio Model:

qN6Vuxg by trekriffic, on Flickr

(Cont'd)


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Strip styrene is glued around the base of the bridge in layers then filed and sanded to get the correct slope: 

Bridge Modifications by trekriffic, on Flickr

AVES is applied and smoothed to get the final shape of the bridge. The putty is so smooth it should only need a little sanding with 600 grit before I add some greeblies to the bridge:

New Bridge Profile by trekriffic, on Flickr

State of Disarray? This is what this little K't'inga has done to my workbench:

State of Disarray by trekriffic, on Flickr

Thanks for reading.

Qa'pla


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

The kit seems to need a lot of small additions but it sure adds to the accuracy and detail.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Xenodyssey said:


> The kit seems to need a lot of small additions but it sure adds to the accuracy and detail.


Thanks X-man!

Update...

After a light sanding the bridge was ready for greeblification. Using these photos as a guide I set to work:

rkutH5X by trekriffic, on Flickr

b7m09MJ by trekriffic, on Flickr

After a few hours of gluing tiny bits of styrene rod, sheet, piano wore, brass wire, and leftover brass fret material with CA I have this:

Bridge Dome Greeblies by trekriffic, on Flickr

Bridge Dome Greeblies by trekriffic, on Flickr

I'll give the greeblies a light topical sanding to reduce their height somewhat before priming. Maybe do some slight reshaping in a couple of spots but she's basically ready for priming at this point. 

Q'a'pla


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

Outstanding work.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

publiusr said:


> Outstanding work.


Thanks! After posting these pics I realized the greeblies needed to be toned down a bit so I added another thin layer of AVES to blend things in a little more. 

I also raised the tower behind the "bridge" dome about 1/32 of an inch. Added some pipes to the port side of the tower. Added some PE to it too. 

I'll post up some pics later after I finish priming.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Got the command bulb done and primed overall...

The tower behind the command dome was a little short so I raised it about 1/32". After that I removed the top dome of the command tower and added four strips of transparent red styrene to make the windows:

Red Viewport Inserts by trekriffic, on Flickr

New profile after heightening dome and adding the bridge windows:

Dome Reattached by trekriffic, on Flickr

Some more greeblies were added to the top of the bridge tower:

Top of Dome by trekriffic, on Flickr

The six louvres on the sides of the command deck were removed using files and sanding sticks. There should only be four:

Revamping the louvres by trekriffic, on Flickr

Four new louvres were glued in place:

Four Louvres by trekriffic, on Flickr


Thin strips of brass were glued onto the louvres:

Brass Strip Detailing by trekriffic, on Flickr

She got her Tamiya Fine Surface Primer coat:

In Primer by trekriffic, on Flickr

In Primer by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

In Primer by trekriffic, on Flickr

In Primer by trekriffic, on Flickr

In Primer by trekriffic, on Flickr

In Primer by trekriffic, on Flickr

Now for the real fun!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

No idea what the Klingon translation for "Let the fun begin!" is; there probably isn't one but, anyway, let's just hope the paintjob will be "Glorious!"...

Model Master Dark Sea Gray, Dark Ghost Gray, Neutral Gray, Gunship Gray, Flat White, Flat Olive Mat, Olive Drab, Willow Green, Sand Beige, and Insignia Yellow were mixed to come up with six different shades for the basecoat and accent colors:

Mixing Enamels by trekriffic, on Flickr

Paint mixing all done. These colors will be applied by a air and hand brushing and oversprayed with the thinned basecoat after drying. Then I will use water based gel ink pens and Tamiya weathering chalks to overlap and add interesting variations on these six colors. I will have to be judicious in their use though so as not to make the surface too busy:

Six Colors by trekriffic, on Flickr

The basecoat is a mix of Dark Sea Grey, Flat White, Flat Olive Drab, Willow Green, and Neutral Grey. It is a fairly light grey, slightly lighter than the Tamiya grey primer, with just a hint of green. I used a 50/50 mix of paint to thinner for airbrushing the basecoat. You want it to be the consistency of skim milk:

Basecoat Mixed and Ready for Thinning by trekriffic, on Flickr

The display rod is handy for holding the model at its stern mounting point for airbrushing:

Ready for Airbrushing by trekriffic, on Flickr

Airbrushing took only a few minutes and after 15 minutes it was dry to the touch. I'll give her at least a day though before I start handbrushing the accent colors. I want to avoid as much tape masking as possible. 

Airbrushing of Basecoat Complete by trekriffic, on Flickr

Basecoated by trekriffic, on Flickr

The basecoat looks pretty darn close to the overall tone of the studio model, although the studio model was much greener originally before someone painted it with a white water based paint to mute the greenishness:

Basecoat Comparison by trekriffic, on Flickr

Next up...

Painting the accent colors.


Q'a'pla


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Ghom tagh yInISQo'! :cheers2:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Ghom tagh yInISQo'! :cheers2:


Curious. I tried translating to English and got this result:

"I will not let you start ghom" 

:jest:


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Yeah! I will let you say that to the Klingons! :cheers2:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Trekkriffic said:


> Curious. I tried translating to English and got this result:
> 
> "I will not let you start ghom"
> 
> :jest:


I got:

"My hovercraft is full of eels"


(I think mine is the Monty Python Second Edition)


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Richard Baker said:


> I got:
> 
> "My hovercraft is full of eels"
> 
> ...


Monty Python qamuSHa'! :laugh:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

OK here's the latest in the realm of K'T'inga goodness...

Finished the underpainting. Along the way I discovered a few more additional items that I just has to add for the sake of accuracy...

There were a few missing plates I added to the aft ventral surface of the command bulb using .010 sheet styrene:

Additional Plating Added by trekriffic, on Flickr

Using the Imgur studio model photos I painted the additional plates with a mix of tan and rust brown to match the studio model paint scheme:

Additional Plating Painted by trekriffic, on Flickr

I also noticed this detail strip was missing so added it using .010 thick v-groove styrene sheet:

Strip Added to Connecting Boom by trekriffic, on Flickr

Underpainting is complete...

Dorsal:
Underpainting Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr

The colors used on the ventral surfaces appeared lighter than the dorsal surfaces. Sort of like a shark which is darker on top and lighter underneath:

Underpainting Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr

The stern. Mostly a medium gray tone except for the shuttle/hangar bay housing which has tones of gray and green. The red you see inside the photorp tube is a round disc punched out from a sheet of red adhesive-backed vinyl paper:

Underpainting Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

She's close to finished as is but I want to take her to the next level with a unifying overspray mix of thinned clear enamel, light gray, and flat green to unify the hull.Followed by an application of yellow, gray, and green weathering powders (just bought the Tamiya E series weatheirng pastels set) in conjunction with water-based gel pens. Then I'll apply the decals before sealing with Testors Dullcote:

Underpainting Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr

Underpainting Finished by trekriffic, on Flickr

Underpainted K'Tinga Compared to Studio Model by trekriffic, on Flickr

I think I did a decent job of capturing the shades of colors in the underpainting phase of the model. Just need to lighten the values up a bit and enhance some of the greenish gray textures.
As Spock would say, a small feat of intrepidity is required; or perhaps a more apropos reference would be the comment below from Mister Worf should I earn what passes for a Klingon compliment:

worf happy by trekriffic, on Flickr

Q'a'pla


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## Xenodyssey (Aug 27, 2008)

It looks pretty awesome, actually.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks for the comments Xenodyssey. I was beginning to wonder if anyone was still following this thread.

So... to continue... I oversprayed with a mix of Flint Gray, European Dark Green, and Olive Drab mixed with Testors Gloss Clear and thinned with airbrush thinner. Afterward, I did some retouching with some of the accent colors to restore some contrast to the paneling. After a few days to dry I lightly sanded with a 1200 grit sanding pad. 

I did this test strip of the main accent colors in case anyone was interested:

Basic Color Palette by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here are some pics taken today after spraying with Dullcote. She was still wet for me in these photos:

After Overspraying and Touchup by trekriffic, on Flickr

Compare the photo below with the one above for quite a contrast between the dorsal and ventral. Like a shark, she's darker on top and lighter underneath:

After Overspraying and Touchup by trekriffic, on Flickr

From behind:

After Overspraying and Touchup by trekriffic, on Flickr

That's it for today. Next up is some weathering with Tamiya pastels and maybe some ink pens.

Q'a'pla


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)




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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Update. Pastels and pens and other rub downs...

I used three different sets of Tamiya pastel chalks. Mostly grey, yellow, and green with some brown and orange rust thrown in. The gel ink pens were used sparingly, mostly a lime green and dark metallic green pen were used:

Tamiya Pastels by trekriffic, on Flickr

After a rubbing with grey Tamiya pastel chalk:

Application of Tamiya Pastel Chalks by trekriffic, on Flickr

To the right, the upper dorsal wing surface has been rubbed with Tamiya grey pastel chalk. The left side is still untreated:

Comparison Shot by trekriffic, on Flickr

Here the ventral surface has been rubbed with Tamiya grey pastel chalk:

Underside by trekriffic, on Flickr

Took a break from the chalks to do some painting...

The exhaust vents were painted white followed by a layer of yellow enamel. After that they got a coat of Tamiya red transparent acrylic mixed with Future. Late, I wasn't satisfied, so I went back and mixed white enamel with the yellow and repainted the vents. Then a thin layer of the red transparent acrylic was carefully applied around the margins using a tiny brush. Then once that dried I coated the ports with Future:

Preparing to Pint the Impulse Engine Exhausts by trekriffic, on Flickr

The tiny red flashing beacon at the base of the neck is painted on using florescent red enamel with a tiny drop of yellow in the center applied with a sharpened round toothpick:

Red Beacon by trekriffic, on Flickr

Tamiya tape is trimmed to lay over the grill between the impulse intake vent openings:

Masking the Impulse Engine Intake Vents by trekriffic, on Flickr

A layer of Model Master red fluorescent paint was laid down first. This was followed by a layer of Tamiya red transparent acrylic. After unmasking I used a fine tipped brush to repainted the grills using MM Medium Gray. Takes a steady hand to avoid making a mess of things:

Painting the Impulse Engine Intakes by trekriffic, on Flickr

More to come as I experience that state of semi-bliss when your model suddenly comes together and pops you right in the mouth- like a weakened form of Klingon sex. Like it's telling you your work is more than "adequate" after all...


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

She's getting close to completion now. Almost all pastel work is done. 
She got a sealing coat of Dullcote. 
Next I'll rub some "soot" around the mouth of the bow photorp tube to match the look of the studio model. After that will be finishing the windows on the front of the command deck and applying decals...

Getting There by trekriffic, on Flickr

Port Profile by trekriffic, on Flickr

The impulse engine vents turned out rather nicely if I do say so myself:

Stern View by trekriffic, on Flickr

I really like what the pastel chalks did to unify the finish:

Dorsal View by trekriffic, on Flickr

She definitely has that shark coloration-lighter underneath and darker on top. The starburst around the photorp tube was painted on using a mix of brown and yellow- like Gulden's brown mustard. The decals that came with the kit were either red or gold colored which is wrong for the Star Trek the Motion Picture K't'inga:

Ventral View by trekriffic, on Flickr

Q'a'pla!


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Great. Now repeat all steps on the AMT kit!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

electric indigo said:


> Great. Now repeat all steps on the AMT kit!


:laugh: 

If I ever build another AMT kit it will be as Quonos One I think.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

So she's about 99% done I'd say. May add a few more black stripes to the bow plating above the torpedo mouth to give them more detail. Most of the little white accent lights on the nacelles and secondary hull and the narrow end to the rear of the command bulb were made using really short pieces of bloomed (heated) fiber optic strand. The blooming was done using a BIC lighter and made perfectly round little bulbs that I then painted white. Holes would be drilled and the strand glued in with Elmer's white glue. So you end up with perfectly uniform round ports. 

After decaling I gave her an overall brushing with Future to seal the decals and protect the paint. Today she got a few sprays of Dullcote, all except for the command bulb, which was still getting some decals this morning. 

Anyway, here are some pics, not the final, final pics though so don't be too disappointed. 
For one thing I still need to finish the base and I'm hoping meatloafr can help me on that front...

Shuttle bay doors trefoil decal:

Trefoil Decal on Doors by trekriffic, on Flickr

Klingon lettering. This decal is located on the aft inboard upper half of each nacelle:

Klingon Alphabet Decal by trekriffic, on Flickr

Ventral trefoil decal. Did a little weathering after painting the trefoil decal with enamels to change the coloration a tad-more brown mustard yellow and a lighter shade of green and blue. Also the red spike had a divot after I applied it so painted it over too. Lots of Solvaset needed to get this one to lay down:

Ventral Trefoil Decal by trekriffic, on Flickr

Nacelle outboard pylon decal. More Klingon lettering on each pylon:

Nacelle Pylon Decal by trekriffic, on Flickr

Dorsal trefoil and Klingon lettering decals. Not sure what the letters spell out or even if I got them right side up to be honest:

Dorsal Trefoil and Klingon Lettering by trekriffic, on Flickr

White decal paper. I painted an olive green stripe onto some leftover white decal paper using MM enamels. After soaking I placed the stripe along the centerline of the black window stripe decal that wraps around the command bulb on the bow:

White Decal Paper by trekriffic, on Flickr

Profile of bow wraparound window decal. Tricky to get this decal centered correctly:

Bow Window Decal Profile by trekriffic, on Flickr

Windows and Ports. The two rows of windows along the front of the command deck were made by drilling shallow holes and filling them with Perfect Plastic Putty which is a white water-based putty. This worked really well for making perfectly round, uniform window ports in the extremely narrow shallow grooves; although, the residual putty was a biotch to clean up. On the bow below, the black decal with white windows was augmented by an olive green decal laid on between the window ports. The rectangular white "sensor" in the center is made from white decal film. There were also some extra windows I painted out with a black enamel paint pen, they were right in the middle on the bottom half of the black decal centered over the torpedo tube. The weathering around the torpedo tube mouth was done using Tamiya "soot", "rust, and "burnt blue" pastels:

Windows and Window Decals by trekriffic, on Flickr

I have an interesting idea for the base. Just need to see what it will cost me to get a 3" x 3" decal made up. 

Q'a'pla!


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

Just wow.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Q'a'pla my Klingon brethren. 

This will be my last in-progress post prior to posting the final finished pics. I kept finding things to improve the look of the model to more closely match the studio model. To that end I revamped the detailing I'd done atop what I call the "tactical command dome". It's the tower that sits behind the "bridge" dome atop the command "bulb". Anyway, after multiple coats of paint the original detailing had become pretty soft. 

Here's a pic of the studio model to show you what I was shooting for:

Studio Model Tactical Dome Detail by trekriffic, on Flickr

The array atop the dome is kinda hard to figure out but I did my best to replicate it using bits of styrene sheet and rod and some leftover brass fret material. I also modified the profile of the strip that runs along the front of the dome making it more angular rather than a smooth curve:

Tactical Array by trekriffic, on Flickr

IMG_2757 by trekriffic, on Flickr

Tactical Array Tower Details by trekriffic, on Flickr

I have to say I have no idea if it's 100% accurate to the studio miniature but it looks pretty close to me. Certainly good enough for this scale. 

Moving along towards the final stages I rediscovered my Prismacolor coloring pencils! I'd somehow forgotten about them; maybe because the last time I used them to any extent was when I build my 18" TOS Enterprise some 11 years ago. Anyway, they were great for making the final tweaks to the ships detailing:

Prismacolor Pencils by trekriffic, on Flickr

The pencils (mostly black, brown sienna, and "mustard" yellow) were lightly scribbled onto the model over a flat coat and then rubbed with a cotton swab and "water" to blend the color. It's a subtle effect but really contributes to the finishing touches. 

The wooden base ready for painting:

Base Ready for Paint and Decaling by trekriffic, on Flickr

It will be a nested affair with the main square brass display rod (that fits into a mounting hole in the ass and underside of the model) inside another round brass tube which itself fits into another round tube that fits into a hole drilled into the base.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

So today I will leave you with a few teaser photos. I'll have more hopefully this weekend after my decal arrives today from meatloafr for the base. She's had umpteen coats of Dullcote but, in my mind, this ship absolutely has to have a dead flat finish: 

Bow Quarter by trekriffic, on Flickr

Stern Quarter by trekriffic, on Flickr

Starboard Profile by trekriffic, on Flickr

Stay tuned for the finished images some of which will try to recapture the unfortunate encounter with V'ger that led to this vessel and crew's unfortunate demise. 


Q'a'pla!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

One more:

Command Bulb Bow On by trekriffic, on Flickr


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Posted the finished pics in a new thread here. Hope you guys like them!

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/99-science-fiction-modeling/566098-klingon-ktinga.html#post6325586


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