# Suspended Drag Strip: I Need Ideas On How To Hang It?



## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

*Suspended Drag Strip: I Need Ideas On What To Name It?*

I am by no means a contractor so here's what I have. I would like to mount a 25 foot long shelf on the Angled Attic ceiling/wall. Pic provided. I need some good ideas from some contracters.

Let me know what you guys think please.


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## tjetsgrig (Nov 1, 2009)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> I am by no means a contractor so here's what I have. I would like to mount a 25 foot long shelf on the Angled Attic ceiling/wall. Pic provided. I need some good ideas from some contracters.
> 
> Let me know what you guys think please.



Hinges!! Fold it out from the wall.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

tjetsgrig said:


> Hinges!! Fold it out from the wall.



I was debating that Jim but here's the thing, If it was stationary I could actually make a small shelf the lenght of the track. But you can't fold it up if there are cars on display there. There is enough room to hang it and have it not be in the way of the track underneath so maybe make it where it don't move??? I am not sure what to do here!!!

SO many options and I just wanna run!!!!!!


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Joe,

There are many ways to mount a shelf. What's the pitch of the ceiling? How high from the floor do you want the shelf? How far from the ceiling do you want the shelf?

Hinges could be used for a stationary shelf to support the side along the wall - a nice low profile option.

You could simply mount a ledger along the sloped ceiling. Make sure to account for the thickness of the shelf and the slope of the ceiling when selecting the width of the ledger.

You could support the shelf with hangers of threaded rod . An elegant mounting solution would be to install threaded inserts into the ceiling joists. This would allow you to compensate for a ceiling that's not level.

I wish I could draw like DSlot & SwamperGene 

Bob B.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

I think you need to consider the entire design before you decide on the mounting method. I assume you'll want the track to be perfectly flat through its entire length. Keeping it flat will require a decently stiff base surface to mount the track on. What kind of material will the base be made from and what kind of structure is needed to keep the base stiff? 

Once you figure out the shelf structure and overall weight some consideration needs to be given for your roof design before you attach any hanging weight from your attic ceiling. If you have conventional roof rafters, i.e., heavy two-by lumber positioned on edge, there's no real concern. But if you have prefabricated roof trusses then you don't want to have too much weight concentrated on too few trusses. Trusses aren't designed for supporting hanging weight. If you have trusses you'll want to divide the weight evenly by having mounting points on several trusses along the length of the shelf structure. The same applies to a cleat mounted on one side, make sure you attach it to several trusses. The best structural solution would have at least one side of the shelf supported by vertical members extending to the floor.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

The pitch on my roof is step. I think it's a 12 or 16. I know there weren't too many of my friends that wanted to do the rip off when I bought the house 9 years ago!!lol And it it a normal roof with rafters at 24 inch on center. I spoke with Al this morning and after he told me how he and Hank have theirs constructed I was on the right track with my original thought. It's the same way I have my drivers stations boxes assembled.

It'll be 1 by 8 with either 1 by 3 or so framing the entire surface from end to end on the bottom. I will later decide how the shelf underneath will be but it's looking like the best way to do it is to have it not flip up. Which I am fine with. So what do you guys think of that? 

And please expand on your shelf ideas on the bottom of the whole lenght???


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Sparky says....

Why not slide the board through some coat hangers and hang it on a piece of conduit?


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Sparky says....
> 
> Why not slide the board through some coat hangers and hang it on a piece of conduit?




Uhhhh........no:freak:


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## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

homedespot website shows
superstrut , (another name Unistrut) & Superstrut 3/8 In. 10 Ft. L. Threaded Electrical Support Rod (ie 3/8" ATR (all thread rod)
a 10' pc cut into 3 or 4 equal pc's should be enough to support.
Attach strut to truss with lags (predrill holes) run 3/8" ATR with washer & nuts.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Where are all the carpenters:wave:


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Joe basically I think you could just make a bunch of these: (crude "general" drawing)










Attach to every other rafter, board on top (strip), board on bottom (shelf), and go racin'


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

SwamperGene said:


> Joe basically I think you could just make a bunch of these: (crude "general" drawing)
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I love how you do that SG!!!! The only problem with that exact type of a set up is, I am not liking the idea of 2 screws on top of one another??? On that part you drew. Is that going to be enough support?


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

It all depends on how much weight you are placing on whatever bracket system you decide to use. If you know the total weight (including the weight of the brackets, the shelf, and the track), the dimensions of the brackets, the location of the mounting holes, and the total number of brackets you can do a static analysis to figure out how much weight each screw must support. You would absolutely have to use lag bolts and get every one solidly in a rafter. Don't even think about anchors in drywall or using drywall screws.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

We need more definition.

What is the actual racing table surface, and how thick? What's your material budget? That's gonna determine how it's built more than anything.

Do you want it open underneath with hanging support for the outer edge? Or do you want to build ground-up more like a garage workbench? If the ends go all the way to side walls then supporting the front/center with cables or hidden legs becomes more of an option.

You know how you use that room, and often people prefer to leave spaces open and fill them with rolling storage or portable shelves instead of monster built-ins. 

Many display cases are glass, and it would be simple to get a few glass shelves to mount above this racetrack. The type where you mount a metal strip to the wall and then use drop-in arms to support loose shelves. If a guy was really sly he could install the strips all the way down to the racing surface (every wall stud) and use them to support some crazy track elevation or other track accessories that need to be hung.

While not a contractor per se, have been building and remodeling for my whole life. Define it a little better and we'll lay out something attractive that's safe to stand on (it will happen)


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

No offense guys buy this is getting way over-complicated, next Joe's gonna need engineering work, electrical inspections, and a couple hundred to grease the palms of his local zoning officers. In the realm of "what people put on a shelf" an HO dragstrip is pretty lightweight.

Joe look at my drawing....it should be fairly simple to figure out. You want to build each bracket "on the wall". Snap a level chalkline along the length of the wall, then find your rafter beams. Cut the pieces that will screw to the wall, 2x3's would probably work good here. Drill two holes in each and attach to the wall using 1/4" lag bolts (pre-drill into the rafters). Use the chalkline as a guide. Then make two sides for each bracket assembly from 3/4" boards, glue and screw them to the supports. Attatch the top shelf and bottom shelf, and you're good to go. You can do it rough with square edges or clean it up and miter all edges to match the slope of the ceiling.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

However you design this, here's the tools you're gonna need to do it right

Safety glasses
2 levels, 4 foot and a short one
Drill w screwdriver bits and one drill sized to pre-drill screws
Measuring tape and pencil
Power mitre saw, they're under a hundred for cheapies, somebody you know has one that they'd love to loan out. It'll help the quality of this job more than any other tool.
Square (to check the house corners and your own work) 
Hammer (a perfect fitting boards need tapped into place)
Stud finder (unless you can see the nails popping out already)
Glue (to maximize rigidity and minimize wood content)
Skilsaw to cut table edge
Helper. An experienced guy could build it on his own, but he'd have things like power nailers and skilsaw skills that you probably don't have. No offense, but the best results come from realistic planning. 
String as you'll need a level reference across the front. 

Good luck!


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

BTW, Lag bolts!?!?! Two 1/4 lag bolts in a 2/3 and there's no wood left, it's all bolt! You need to have enough wood left for structure and non-splitting reasons. 

The back wall should probably be 2x4, attached with two 3 inch screws (or framing nails) per stud. If lathe & plaster or highly layered, more like 3.5 screws. You want 1- 1.5" of bite into the wall studs. I like using screws in remodel situations as framing nails tend to beat things off the wall in other parts of the house. Choose your board length so none of the 2x4 seams match the countertop seams.

Building something over 20' long, that's flat and stable, is not child's play even if child's play is the intended purpose of the table


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Ok fellas, your getting out of control!!!lol lol

I'm now thinking of having Mr Tom S stop by and here his input. His idea from what I gathered when we spoke is, don't over think it and do a set up like pictured. Have to make each individual support bracket, then he has a laser level so if I get good lumber it should come nice and flat. I am thinking of 1 by 8 and hanging a bottom side shelf for display too. The whole thing shouldn't be too heavy. Pretty much the weight of the wood itself since the track has very little weight.

I really want to try to stay away from hanging wires or what have you. A clean shelf will make for better racing. Clean look straight down the track.

Gene put up a shot of a 1 by 8 shelf with a 1 by 4 on end up against the wall and the leading edge will have 1 by 2(or smaller) and connected to the top shelf with some round or square stock. Maybe every 2 foot. The lower section material is something I hav not decided on. Composite or press or partical? Or do they have a 1/4 in think to use for the display area? 

Is that asking alot??lol:wave:


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Hold on, I'm confused. 

Is the picture the actual item you want to hang? How's it framed? Is it just a tabletop that needs a frame? I was thinking you wanted to build something similar to the pic, it doesn't look twenty+ feet long.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

440s-4ever said:


> Hold on, I'm confused.
> 
> Is the picture the actual item you want to hang? How's it framed? Is it just a tabletop that needs a frame? I was thinking you wanted to build something similar to the pic, it doesn't look twenty+ feet long.



No that table is there to stay. I want to put a 1 by 8 shelf for a drag strip. It's going on the wall on the angle in the picture.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> No that table is there to stay. I want to put a 1 by 8 shelf for a drag strip. It's going on the wall on the angle in the picture.



Ohhhh, yeah I'm way overcomplicating things. For a minute it sounded like you wanted a full depth table, 25ft long. An 8 inch wide strip is no biggie. 2x3 along the wall then a 1x3 a little lower for the legs to fit against without pushing into the drywall or being restricted by stud placement. If you're handy with a trim nail the upper board could be 1x3 but 2x3 is probably cheaper.

Legs could be made of simple 2x2 deck spindles with 45 degree ends, chosen for their larger cross section being fastener friendly. 

A 1x3 or 1x4 trim nailed & glued across the face would go a long way to prevent warping and hide the leg joints. 

happy buildin!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

440s-4ever said:


> Ohhhh, yeah I'm way overcomplicating things. For a minute it sounded like you wanted a full depth table, 25ft long. An 8 inch wide strip is no biggie. 2x3 along the wall then a 1x3 a little lower for the legs to fit against without pushing into the drywall or being restricted by stud placement. If you're handy with a trim nail the upper board could be 1x3 but 2x3 is probably cheaper.
> 
> Legs could be made of simple 2x2 deck spindles with 45 degree ends, chosen for their larger cross section being fastener friendly.
> 
> ...



Going legless. ie Thread Title "Suspended Drag Strip" !!lol


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

> No offense guys buy this is getting way over-complicated...


Not really, until you start committing to a solution, i.e., cutting, drilling, and screwing stuff to the wall then it's it's all about understanding what your options and concerns are up-front so you make the right decisions that matter. Putting a little thought into it up-front is cheap. Undoing a bad choice after the fact is not. Yeah, this all has to be put into the right scale and perspective so you aren't spending days contemplating your navel. In this case there are only small number of concerns:

1) Don't do anything that will mess up the wall/roof.
2) Make sure the thing is not going to fall off the wall.
3) Make sure the solution meets your usage and aesthetic requirements. 

If the roof is built using heavy dimensional lumber like 2x10s then there should not be a problem. Concern number 1 - we think we're covered here.

With a conventional shelf/cabinet mounted on a fully vertical wall the weight of the shelf and shelf contents wants to shear the fasters. In this case that's the primary concern - fastener selection, something that won't snap off. I wouldn't use sheetrock screws when this is a concern. With a sloped wall/ceiling the weight of the shelf and contents wants to pull the fasteners out of the wall rather than shear them, so rather than just looking at shear strength you also need to be concerned about how well the fastener bites into the stud or rafter and how well the head of the fastener resists being pulled through the mounting surface. Sufficiently heavy lag bolts with big heads and/or washers sound like a good option here. How big? How much biting surface do you have and how much does the shelf weigh? A little oversizing and adding a couple of extra mounting brackets alleviates your concern. Concern number 2, check. 

What about the aesthetics? Yeah, we can slap some 2-bys and plywood braces on the wall and make it hold, but is that the look you want in your living space? Maybe you want to box it in or have fancy brackets. This means making a material and design choice and potentially revisiting one of the other concerns. So concern number 3 is resolvable with some thought.

I know this may sound "overly complicated" when you type it all out on a BBS posting. In human time it's perhaps several minutes of thought or mulling it over for a while. With sufficient experience it's no more than a few seconds of thought: been there, done that, why are we even thinking about it? The process from "here's the problem" to "here's the solution" has an important middle step and that step is "think." Yes, the middle step has to be completed before you can get to the solution. How long you spend in the middle step is up to you and your experience and comfort level.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

> What about the aesthetics? Yeah, we can slap some 2-bys and plywood braces on the wall and make it hold, but is that the look you want in your living space? Maybe you want to box it in or have fancy brackets. This means making a material and design choice and potentially revisiting one of the other concerns. So concern number 3 is resolvable with some thought.


It's funny you mention that, because my first thought was a sort-of flower box looking thing along the length of the wall, basically boxing the underside of the track to hide wiring and such. But since Joe wants a shelf, which is a cool idea, the idea switched to making skinny "flower boxes" for brackets, the width of a rafter or so. I have a bit of an advantage as I've been to Joe's place and know exactly what he's looking at and what he has. These brackets could be made of the same material his driver station shelves are made of to coordinate it all with the rest of the room.

Joe my own biggest concern is that when you calculate the width of the shelf, you make sure that you have enough height for the cars and any above-track hardware on the lane closest to the wall.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Going legless. ie Thread Title "Suspended Drag Strip" !!lol



A couple posts up you say you don't want to suspend it! lol back at ya! The term you're looking for is floating shelf.

Wood is a living thing as it dries and stresses within a structure resolve themselves. Scoff all you like, but those of us that build things which remain flat and square approach the situation with a lot of forethought. 

If the surface is also the primary structure, you're at the whim of how that 1x8 dries. Sometimes you get lucky. Good luck.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

440s-4ever said:


> A couple posts up you say you don't want to suspend it! lol back at ya!


My bad. I meant I didn't want legs or wires. I am getting more confused by the minute!!!:freak:

It's all good 440. I need to get this going. Tom is supposed to come scope it out today.


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

SwamperGene said:


> It's funny you mention that, because my first thought was a sort-of flower box looking thing along the length of the wall, basically boxing the underside of the track to hide wiring and such. But since Joe wants a shelf, which is a cool idea, the idea switched to making skinny "flower boxes" for brackets, the width of a rafter or so. I have a bit of an advantage as I've been to Joe's place and know exactly what he's looking at and what he has. These brackets could be made of the same material his driver station shelves are made of to coordinate it all with the rest of the room.
> 
> Joe my own biggest concern is that when you calculate the width of the shelf, you make sure that you have enough height for the cars and any above-track hardware on the lane closest to the wall.


I think the box idea has merit! If the box is made to fit against the wall, it could be supported with a ledger attached to the sloped ceiling. The drawback is that it will require accurately cut angles and some fine tuning or shimming to get it level and plumb.

It's not necessary to go overboard on the fasteners. A #6 screw has a minimum pull-out strength of 45#/in of penetration. A #10 screw is 63#/in of penetration! A 20' shelf mounted with 2-#10 screws (1 5/16 embedment)every 16" could support over 2,000 lbs! If the shelf is heavily loaded use pan head screws and a fender washer to prevent punching shear.

Bob B.


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

I was about to draw up an idea for you in CAD but came across these cool adjustable shelf brackets online. Looks like IKEA sells them. They claim they will support 22 lbs each. This seems like a nice clean idea for a sturdy shelf in a finished room. If you want to support a 25 foot shelf, one bracket on every 24" spaced rafter gives you 12 brackets with a total load rating of 264 lbs. You could add a valance along the front to hide wires. :thumbsup:

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40168728


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Slott V said:


> I was about to draw up an idea for you in CAD but came across these cool adjustable shelf brackets online. Looks like IKEA sells them. They claim they will support 22 lbs each. This seems like a nice clean idea for a sturdy shelf in a finished room. If you want to support a 25 foot shelf, one bracket on every 24" spaced rafter gives you 12 brackets with a total load rating of 264 lbs. You could add a valance along the front to hide wires. :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40168728




And they are only 2 bux a pop.

Very intertesting!!


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Slott V said:


> I was about to draw up an idea for you in CAD but came across these cool adjustable shelf brackets online. Looks like IKEA sells them. They claim they will support 22 lbs each. This seems like a nice clean idea for a sturdy shelf in a finished room. If you want to support a 25 foot shelf, one bracket on every 24" spaced rafter gives you 12 brackets with a total load rating of 264 lbs. You could add a valance along the front to hide wires. :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40168728


Those are slick :thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Yes they do. I'm going to my local Ikea sat am to see if I can grab em!!!


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

Those look like the ticket. Nice!


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Yeah man... :thumbsup:


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## sidejobjon (Jun 3, 2010)

Heres what i was thinking


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

sidejobjon said:


> Heres what i was thinking



Hey Bud!!! Call me asap!!! never know if you have your cell phone on.
I'll be home and I allready went to IKEA and got me 7 of those babies!!

WooHoo!! Home Depot here I come!!


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## Crimnick (May 28, 2006)

problem solved....cant wait to see the track!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Ok so here is a slight issue with these brackets, I can still use them though. There is a flat portion they want you to mount flush to the wall and the other side being where the shelf sits, they want the actual shelf to kinda fall into the bracket. There is a channel so it's like an angle iron. So I have to mount a 2 by 2 to my rafters then attach the angled side to the 2 by 2. So the flat portion can be used to get my flat shelf surface. I will get a picture.

Stand by.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

OK it's hard to see in my crappy cell pic but the angle you see on this end is upside down on the other mounting portion. Ideally I would like to take em apart and get the 2 flat sides to face one direction but the locking mechanizm is spot welded in and even if I broke the weld and rewelded, there wouldn't be enough room to fit it due to the angle so the easiest wy I believe is to mount a 1 by 2 or 2 by 2 to the wall and attach the bracket t it.

What do you guys think??

Gene??


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Do they work at any angle Joe? Looks to me like you can mount it flush on the wall, and flush under the shelf as it sits.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Do they work at any angle Joe? Looks to me like you can mount it flush on the wall, and flush under the shelf as it sits.



The elbow goes in any position but the flat sides are opposite each other otherwise I would have mounted them allready. 

So you see there is an angle where it has to be mounted to the wall so do I just use the method I mentioned?

I will try to get a clearer shot but the flash is whiting out the side closet to the camera.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

The best way to explain it is make a Z out of what you see in the pic. If you notice where my hand is there you can see it is an angled piece exactly opposite what you see on the far end.


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## SwamperGene (Dec 1, 2003)

Joe, I think you got the right idea here:



> so the easiest wy I believe is to mount a 1 by 2 or 2 by 2 to the wall and attach the bracket t it


Rather than mount the wood to the wall, you could drill through it and just use two lag bolts going through the brackets and the wood and into the rafters. In other words, use the wood as a spacer.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

SwamperGene said:


> Joe, I think you got the right idea here:
> 
> 
> 
> Rather than mount the wood to the wall, you could drill through it and just use two lag bolts going through the brackets and the wood and into the rafters. In other words, use the wood as a spacer.




Yea I could but it would be alot easier to get the brackets level if the wood spacers are attached and I could shim the brackets as needed no?


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

If you cut the tack welds and use 2 brackets to make one ,would that get what you needed


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Or, you could fabricate your own brackets.


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## Hornet (Dec 1, 2005)

Piece of light duty 1" angle iron,cut a notch in one side bend to the angle needed,weld up notch done.
Drill a couple holes for mounting splash some paint on it,call er done:thumbsup:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Even easier, cut appropriate sized blocks of wood, and mount them under the shelf. It's hard to see it in the picture, but your description makes sense. Have the flush side on the wall and screw it into the rafters. Screw through the bracket, blocks of wood into the shelf.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Even easier, cut appropriate sized blocks of wood, and mount them under the shelf. It's hard to see it in the picture, but your description makes sense. Have the flush side on the wall and screw it into the rafters. Screw through the bracket, blocks of wood into the shelf.



You know what scm, I like your idea better than mine. I am goin to bring a bracket to the depot and see what will fit in there to make the shelf nice and flat. This way the wall looks cleaner. Then I can hang a lower display shelf too.:thumbsup:

Thanks for your input bro.


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Well, did you get any 'support' from the Depot?

Don't leave us 'hanging'.

Por favor.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Haha I just got it up there today!!!! I have a few coats of Min-Wax on it allready and tom am the final coat will go on.

Whatcha think??


Now I need to go get me another 3 sections of the track lighting and i'll be 100 percent!!

As far as the set up goes anyways


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Here is the finish line.


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Lookin' great Joe!! How wide a shelf did you go with? Looks like a professional install to me! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Lookin' great Joe!! How wide a shelf did you go with? Looks like a professional install to me! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks scm..
I used 1 by 8. It came out real nice but now time for a long display shelf. I am thinking of going with a 10 inch wide lower tier. A Place to put your controller??Stand by.....


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Slott V said:


> I was about to draw up an idea for you in CAD but came across these cool adjustable shelf brackets online. Looks like IKEA sells them. They claim they will support 22 lbs each. This seems like a nice clean idea for a sturdy shelf in a finished room. If you want to support a 25 foot shelf, one bracket on every 24" spaced rafter gives you 12 brackets with a total load rating of 264 lbs. You could add a valance along the front to hide wires. :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40168728




Special thanks to Mr Slott V for finding these 2 dollar brackets. Many thanks bud, worked out good.


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> Thanks scm..
> I used 1 by 8. It came out real nice but now time for a long display shelf. I am thinking of going with a 10 inch wide lower tier. A Place to put your controller??Stand by.....


Looks great :thumbsup:

How 'bout a close-up of the ceiling, bracket & shelf?


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

rbrunne1 said:


> Looks great :thumbsup:
> 
> How 'bout a close-up of the ceiling, bracket & shelf?


Ok will do.


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

That looks great! 2x8? Or did you end up building a face or box structure out of 1x lumber?


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Looks really good! You could run some of that mirror tile all the way down it!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

It's a 1x8 with a strip of 1x2 on the leading edge for keeping it strong. We also put a couple of dowels inbetween to get more support.

Now I am going to put a 10 inch deep shelf under for about 16 foot. For displaying and putting the controllers and stuff, going to hit the depot in the am and see what they have. Thinking a luan kinda stuff. Rip into a couple 10 inch by 8 foot pieces. Hang them with a round dowel kinda piece. Then I see lights in my future lol.

Here is the bracket


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Looks really good! You could run some of that mirror tile all the way down it!



Hmm I likey that idea!!!!


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

Looking good.:thumbsup: It's always good when you can get the most out of a space to fit more cars. Tom


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## rbrunne1 (Sep 22, 2007)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> It's a 1x8 with a strip of 1x2 on the leading edge for keeping it strong. We also put a couple of dowels inbetween to get more support.
> 
> Now I am going to put a 10 inch deep shelf under for about 16 foot. For displaying and putting the controllers and stuff, going to hit the depot in the am and see what they have. Thinking a luan kinda stuff. Rip into a couple 10 inch by 8 foot pieces. Hang them with a round dowel kinda piece. Then I see lights in my future lol.
> 
> Here is the bracket


Thanks for the picture! Looks great :thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Well almost there. The second shelf is drying now. I am using luan and as soon as it's dry, tomorrow I will hang it under this shelf and then it's gonna be on!!!!


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

Nice. As soon as the paving crew lays down the asphalt,looks like you'll be laying down the rubber.:thumbsup: Cool looking cars and dragster builds also. Tom


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Super Coupe said:


> Nice. As soon as the paving crew lays down the asphalt,looks like you'll be laying down the rubber.:thumbsup: Cool looking cars and dragster builds also. Tom



Yea man I am very close!!!! Here is more.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

And what the heck is Auto World thinking putting a 13.5 volt power supply??? What am I supposed to do with that? It couldn't even run my toothbrush!!! :jest:Sheesh!!!!!


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

hey joe 65 i just spied out yer drag strip. wow what a cool idea hangin it off the roof rafters! and the lights are fresh too. enjoy man looks like fun!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

joegri said:


> hey joe 65 i just spied out yer drag strip. wow what a cool idea hangin it off the roof rafters! and the lights are fresh too. enjoy man looks like fun!


Thanks Joe. Wanna do a pass or two? Anytime. Well after I get the track up anyways!!!:thumbsup:

I have 19 foot of track lighting too. I had to cut one track to a 30 inch lenght to get the starting line lit up. And they also had a 12 inch goose neck light that snaps in the track so that will also be aimed at the starting line.:dude:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Your slot cave is pretty darn cool Joe!! You have really maximized the space you have to work with, and did it well. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Ummm, on second thought, this ain't a cave.. It's Joe's slot car tree house!! :lol:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

slotcarman12078 said:


> Your slot cave is pretty darn cool Joe!! You have really maximized the space you have to work with, and did it well. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
> 
> Ummm, on second thought, this ain't a cave.. It's Joe's slot car tree house!! :lol:



Lmao!!!! I like that, tree slot house!! 

Wait a minute scm, you might have just gave me the Drag Raceway Name!!! Any speculation on a name?? I'll keep my ideas in my head for now to see what you come up with.:dude:


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I'll have to give it some thought Joe. Give me a day or so to see what I can come up with.


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## joegri (Feb 13, 2008)

after scman comes with his names for yer trak i have a couple of names too !


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

larks nest


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Hmm, this could get very interesting.

Al I dig the Lark name but I have to tell you, the Buick Guys frown upon this term. I do say and use Lark but to put it in writing is another story.lol

Never leave any evidence around.


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Lair !


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

alpink said:


> Lair !




Hahaha your out of control bud!!!


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

I guess "Birds Nest Dragway" is out of the question then? :lol:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

slotcarman12078 said:


> I guess "Birds Nest Dragway" is out of the question then? :lol:




Hahaha.:tongue:

Tree Top Raceway

Sky High Drags


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## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Tree Top has a nice ring to it, but Sky High is better!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Hmm here are a few more I will be running.

I tried like hell to get a good shot of the wheels on this bad GS. They are machined 5 slot. Really trick rims. Another ebay guy makes these. Different dude than the S'COOL BUS rims. 

This GS in my new Fav:dude:


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

The project turned out very nice :thumbsup:

I like the sky high drags.

And yes the GS rocks!


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

triple20 said:


> The project turned out very nice :thumbsup:
> 
> I like the sky high drags.
> 
> And yes the GS rocks!



GS is smoking dude!!!!

I actually emailed Mike and he told me he was going to consider doing a 65 GS!!!!! It would blow my mind!! I would have to have a fleet of them!!!


I have to let you know that your picture the other day inspired me to pull out my old's and work on em. When they are ready I will post some pictures. I have a few myself. I am a Buick BOP guy.


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## macmagee (Dec 2, 2010)

*ho drag track*

hey joe nice track!!! I sent you an e-mail last night about wanting to come over and burn some rubber when it is ready to go. let me know.like I said in my e-mail I grew up in central jersey and now live in toms river. keep me posted thanks.

mac


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

macmagee said:


> hey joe nice track!!! I sent you an e-mail last night about wanting to come over and burn some rubber when it is ready to go. let me know.like I said in my e-mail I grew up in central jersey and now live in toms river. keep me posted thanks.
> 
> mac



Yea Mac, it's informal at the moment. I need to get an actual routed or max trac and a trackmate but run what you brung is what i'm saying these days!!!! The plastic track will do for now. It's pretty cool just the same.

08879 is my zip. Probably 50 minute ride for you. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## macmagee (Dec 2, 2010)

*ho drag track*

no problem joe just let me know thanks also I will let you know when mount holly gets their track running so we can get started myself and eddie perez came up with rules just like the skippack guys run and about 9 classes.

mac


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Great read, turned out fantastic. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## CTSV OWNER (Dec 27, 2009)

Sky High Dragway needs a return loop at the end. Here is how I did mine. I used the Aurora single lane track cut at a angle then attached that to a Y track then made a quick loop and run is on a seperate controller.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

roadrner said:


> Great read, turned out fantastic. :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr



Thanks rr I am very happy how the shelf turned out too. I need to get a routed strip to be like the big boys. I guess like everything else, it's never done!!



CTSV OWNER said:


> Sky High Dragway needs a return loop at the end. Here is how I did mine. I used the Aurora single lane track cut at a angle then attached that to a Y track then made a quick loop and run is on a seperate controller.



I love your return loop CTSV. I am thinking of doing a bank turn at the end and kinda let it turn down and go back under and go the length back under my whole set up. I am still planning it out in my head!!!! I love your idea thanks.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

So what I did tonite is I put a 16 foot straight behind the cars on display on the lower shelf. It goes back to the starting line and comes onto the shelf on the front wall of the room out in the open easy to grab.

So the other 9 foot I will have to suspend it and i'm think I will try to get it to connect with a bank turn at the end of the strip, then kinda let in hang down and make a semi-circle around and back under to connect to the return road. 

What cha think?? Can it be done? 

And how do you run the tomy track with 2 open ends?:freak: Will it work the entire 25 foot open??


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Just realized I don't have any completed pictures. I will get some good pics tomorrow.


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## Rolls (Jan 1, 2010)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> I am thinking of doing a bank turn at the end and kinda let it turn down and go back under and go the length back under my whole set up. I am still planning it out in my head!!!!


Whoa... great idea with the banked curve at the end. Those banked curves can take a ton of speed under deceleration. Only thing you gotta worry about is longer wheelbases could be a booger. Very cool idea, though! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Joe65SkylarkGS said:


> GS is smoking dude!!!!
> 
> I actually emailed Mike and he told me he was going to consider doing a 65 GS!!!!! It would blow my mind!! I would have to have a fleet of them!!!
> 
> ...


Very cool! nice to see another BOP person,and glad I could inspire you.Do you have a 1:1 65?
Speaking of fleet,I just added a pic of part of my fleet in my table build thread  

:wave:


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Rolls said:


> Whoa... great idea with the banked curve at the end. Those banked curves can take a ton of speed under deceleration. Only thing you gotta worry about is longer wheelbases could be a booger. Very cool idea, though! :thumbsup::thumbsup:



Well the bank didn't work out but regular turns are looking like they will do the trick. I heated em up and put a little bend in them and it's looking good, I just ned to make an 88 inch or so shelf to hold the track up to meet behind the display sheld straight. It goes the whole lenght and winds up right next to the starting line.

Check it out.


triple20 said:


> Very cool! nice to see another BOP person,and glad I could inspire you.Do you have a 1:1 65?
> Speaking of fleet,I just added a pic of part of my fleet in my table build thread
> 
> :wave:


Thanks and yes it is good to be with a fellow BOPer. I have an 11 sec street 65 Skylark and am in the middle of a frame off on a 4 speed 65 GS. Also have an 87 GN.

I can't help myself!! On a good note, this is the least amount of cars I have owned. counting the 3 up there, I also have a daily Asstro and a sunday DeVille in White Diamond.:dude: 5 isn't alot is it?


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## triple20 (Feb 2, 2001)

Sweet,that 65 Buick body style looks great!

Will the 4 speed gs be factory stock or modified?

I have a 71 cutlass S stock


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

triple20 said:


> Sweet,that 65 Buick body style looks great!
> 
> Will the 4 speed gs be factory stock or modified?
> 
> I have a 71 cutlass S stock



Cool my buddy had a Cutlass S, white inside blue outside. Car was hot!!! we put an Olds 455 in it. Man she could getty up and go!!!

Thanks. The GS will be factory but just a little bit better. It will now have AC in it. Facotry vents inside but aftermarket under the hood. Vintage AC. I allready put disc brakes with stainless steel lines throughout, and the quality of paint will be 100 times better inside and underneath than what they used in 65 for sure!!!

The standard 401 NailHead engine will be smoothed out inside if you catch my drift. I allready have my cam shaft selected and in stock. Porting is on the agenda when I get to it. Also chrome headers will be installed. The only options it came with is power steering which I changed over to a quick ratio, 2.6 turns lock to lock, and Posi in which I went through and put a new posi unit with a new installation kit and changed the gear selection while I was at it.

Just a few mods you really won't see at first look but if you know your cars you can see it all. No hiding anything here.


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## Joe65SkylarkGS (Feb 15, 2010)

Please go here and take a look. I need to redo things and want to add extra power tracks but not sure how to.


http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=316727


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