# Comm cleaning



## thegregi (Sep 20, 2007)

Just wondering what everyone uses to clean comms in a mattel 440x2 HO car? I saw a guy using a white stick to clean his comms while running his car on a 9 volt battery, anyone know what the white stick is? Also, what is the best oil to lube HO cars? Thanks for your help.


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## hrnts69 (Apr 12, 2007)

A good Inline Motor comm cleaner is lighter fluid. Drop 1 drop on the comm before you run the car. Works every time.

To clean a comm, use a pink eraser. That gets most of the carbon buildup off. Make sure you get the carbon out between the comm segments with a ball point tip pen too.

Good oil, i use BSRT Micro Oiler for Magnet Cars, and FreeJet, or JWs Oil for Pancake Cars.

Hope this helps sum


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

More than likely it was a glass fiber pin something like this (sorry for posting to another forum but this was the best pic I could find on the web)

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=29199

You can get them at Walmart, Pepboys, etc, they are sold as a sanding pen to repair small automotive nicks in paint.

Their about $5-$6 bucks, I have used them for RC motors that you should not take the end bell apart to get to the com, but for me I like to remove the arm, chuck it in the dremel tool & polish with crocus cloth, ultra fine, in the direction of travel & clean afterwards.

Boosted


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## cwbam (Feb 8, 2010)

*here's the same from Hobby stores*

BSRT HT 391

PICKUP SHOE CLEANER
(ABRASIVE STICK FOR CLEANING
PICKUP SHOES AND COMMUTATOR) 

SCALE AUTO LUCKY BOB ECT.....

ps they do shed , and this is fiberglass.


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## AfxToo (Aug 29, 2003)

It's called a "micro fiberglass scratch brush" and they work wonderfully on inline comms. They are about 2 mm and will chuck very nicely into a 2 mm lead holder if you have one leftover from drafting/mechanical drawing class. Just don't apply a lot of pressure and clean up afterwards with compressed air.

Here's an example: http://www.micro-tools.com/store/P-7616SB/Se-Fiberglass-Scratch-Brush-Pen-Type.aspx

The larger sized ones, like the BSRT branded one shown in the picture are available from the same vendors who sell the micro sized ones as well as from ScaleAuto. The larger ones work very nicely on pickup shoes and electrical contact points, like shoe hangers on TJets. The larger sized ones are especially well suited for between heat shoe touch ups during a race.

Oil, just pick up a needle oiler filled with lightweight oil from a hobby shop and it will work for nearly everything you'll ever need to oil. The bottom hole on TJets/Magnatractions can use a slightly heavier weight oil. Some people lose much sleep and get religious about their choice of oil - I don't, so get ready for 63 more posts extolling the marvelous virtues of their favorite magic wonder juice that guarantees a podium finish every time.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*Miracle elixers*



AfxToo said:


> ....snip*
> 
> Oil, just pick up a needle oiler filled with lightweight oil from a hobby shop and it will work for nearly everything you'll ever need to oil. The bottom hole on TJets/Magnatractions can use a slightly heavier weight oil. Some people lose much sleep and get religious about their choice of oil - I don't, so get ready for 63 more posts extolling the marvelous virtues of their favorite magic wonder juice that guarantees a podium finish every time.




Hahahahahahahahaha! I laughed so hard "wonder juice" flew out ma' nose.

This quote should be a sticky.

As for comm cleaning; I use the soft pink eraser for pancakes... and have been for 40 years. For inlines, wait for it...yes...once again the pink eraser! Only in modified form. A #2 pencil with the eraser propery shaped to poke into the comm.

For gooey tarred up/oil fouled units it helps to carefully clean the comm with a light solvent on a q-tip.


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## Grandcheapskate (Jan 5, 2006)

On pancake comms, I used a little Noxon on a Q-Tip. I used the Noxon to brighten the electricals on the chassis, and used the slightest bit on fouled comms. Rub it in with a clean Q-Tip, the oil loosens up and the comm is like new. So are the electicals.

Don't know if it would work for inline comms. I also have only done this once per car, so I don't know if there is any downside to using Noxon more frequently. But I figure the cotton tip of a Q-Tip can't be abrasive. 

Joe


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

normally before a race, i clean the comm (fiberglass stick) them pen the comm slots. Ie I take a ball point pen and roll it over the air gap to taper the edges on the comm.

I do know it works based on dyno readings before and after i pen the comm


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

*For nasty baked on crud*

For nasty "baked on" crud on pancake commuters I use Nevr Dull. This make cleaning really old on crud much much easier.










Then I use a pink eraser to make sure I remove all Nevr Dull residue.


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

i use the vrp comm truer
cleans and trues the comm at the same time.
for really bad arms I use the dremel piece, for touch ups i use the hand piece


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## CHR Racing (Feb 23, 2011)

I use VooDoo comm. drops they are killer


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## slotking (May 27, 2008)

mennen skin bracer also works for speed, but for cleaning that's another issue


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

Try "Conducta" lube & cleaner. Non-abrasive, works great, enhances conductivity.

http://www.slotcarexpress.com/Chemicals---Supplies.html


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## jobobvideo (Jan 8, 2010)

Thanks for the link Sir Slotsalot...do you use any other of thier products.


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## Sir Slotsalot (Jan 23, 2010)

I used to use "Voodoo" comm drops until I discovered "Conducta". What a big difference in performance and it lasts much longer between applications. I do use the other products from Aero-Car and they do all work equally as well. The Track & braid cleaner really does help conductivity.


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