# Latest news/pics of 1:350 K't'inga



## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Collectormodel.com


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

Always seeing and hearing this:


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

Build up parts have arrived!

Polar Lights Models: Klingon K't'inga buildup process | Collector Model

I'm busy wiping the drool off of my keyboard now... :grin2:


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

I know I'm infamous for saying this but... Ship it! gimme, gimme, gimme!


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## Larvinator59 (Jul 3, 2016)

So...we've all seen the V'ger cloud attack on the K'tinga squadron numerous times, and it just occurred to me: why didn't the Klingon commander, when he saw the power of V'ger's weapons, simply order the ship to jump to warp? And if they couldn't create a warp field due to some warp negating physics by V'ger, perhaps this explains the later change in the K'tinga warp nacelle design, as depicted in ST: The Undiscovered Country.


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

StarCruiser said:


> Build up parts have arrived!
> 
> Polar Lights Models: Klingon K't'inga buildup process | Collector Model
> 
> I'm busy wiping the drool off of my keyboard now... :grin2:




One thing concerns me and it's the front of the bulb around the torpedo port. It should have that distinctive raised pattern but it looks bare on that?


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

I can't say that it is - or isn't - there. There's no clear view of that area, only a shot from above (or should I say below?).


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

SUNGOD said:


> One thing concerns me and it's the front of the bulb around the torpedo port. It should have that distinctive raised pattern but it looks bare on that?


In this cropped screengrab from _Star Trek: The Motion Picture_ the detail around the "torpedo port" looks like it was painted on:










If I'm right, Round 2's model is correct and that detail will likely be replicated by a decal or two.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

You are correct. That detail was painted on the studio model and not raised. This was accomplished using a dry transfer in the original AMT kit (which I believe became a decal in later releases). For this version, it will be a decal.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

James Small's write up makes me hungry with all those food metaphors!

Those detail parts look very crisp- this will be a real fun build.
The only negative I see is the hangar deck is molded closed- a model this size should have it open- they did have a hangar deck interior in the 1:1000 D-7.
My guess is that they were following the filming model closely and it had the doors shut on it- not too difficult to add as you build though.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Richard Baker said:


> My guess is that they were following the filming model closely and it had the doors shut on it...


Exactly! This replica follows the original very closely -- something that really hasn't been done that well in the past. I'm a real stickler for that sort of thing. I'm also very grateful that Jamie Hood at Round2 has a similar attitude with regard to this particular subject. He was determined to "get it right" and I think the results reflect that.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Incase you guys don't already know Jamie posted an update Saturday saying he's going on vacation and Jim Small will be doing build ups of the kit and posting images on the R2 blog.


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

Zombie_61 said:


> In this cropped screengrab from _Star Trek: The Motion Picture_ the detail around the "torpedo port" looks like it was painted on:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I've looked at a few photos of the original miniature and whilst they're not that clear it appears you're correct. I was going by R2's mock up which had the detail as raised.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

I have clear reference that shows it close up and it's clearly painted on. I made that area raised on the prototype to help R2 in creating a pattern for the decals. Once that was done, the raised detail was removed.


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

star-art said:


> I have clear reference that shows it close up and it's clearly painted on. I made that area raised on the prototype to help R2 in creating a pattern for the decals. Once that was done, the raised detail was removed.




Sorry star-art I forgot you were involved with this. Looking at those parts it looks like you've all done a fantastic job.:grin2:


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

No worries. Thanks! 

It's been a very crazy week for me (emphasis on CRAZY) but I wanted to say that I just received a set of test shots for this kit. I am quite honestly blown away! I really didn't think it could be this nice.

I'm very grateful to Jamie Hood at Round2 Corp for the incredible effort it took to get this product to market. He was determined to "get it right" and I think these results reflect that.

In fact, this could be the most authentic and amazing Star Trek model kit yet. It's also the first mass-produced, officially licensed, injection-molded plastic kit made from patterns I created. This makes me feel like a proud papa.


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

star-art said:


> No worries. Thanks!
> 
> It's been a very crazy week for me (emphasis on CRAZY) but I wanted to say that I just received a set of test shots for this kit. I am quite honestly blown away! I really didn't think it could be this nice.
> 
> ...




I'm envious of you having the test shots. Can't wait to get my hands on it too (along with quite a few other people).:grin2:


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## Dr. Brad (Oct 5, 1999)

I was about to sell my 1/350 Refit kit thinking maybe I wouldn't ever get around to it, but when this was released I immediately took it off the market, because I knew I'd want this, and well, I'd want a companion piece for it!


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

K'T'Inga kit debuts in _Round 2 October 2018 Product Spotlight_:







K'T'Inga kit debuts at the _All-Japan Model Hobby Show_:






(Go to 28:25 in the video to see it)


The first kit review has been posted:

https://www.allscaletrek.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=5309


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

Molded in BLACK! Genius!


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Info on the lighting kit with included PE:

Collector Model |


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Interesting. He mentions how the PE window parts are to be glued on top of the plastic and that will cause it to protrude a bit. How about just using the PE to replace the plastic parts, instead? It might make for a more difficult assembly of the battle head, but it would more accurately portray the inset shown on the shooting model.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Video review:






Hat tip to portland182 at the Starship Modeler forums.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I have a question for Charles, 



I was curious if this particular screen detail is represented in the model. It is at the inside rear of the nacelles. I can't determine it's existence by the kit parts photos, and it doesn't appear to be on the photoetch sheet. If not, I may just take a trip over to the local model railroad shop to get some fine, rectangular vent screen. 












I must say that I am greatly anticipating this kit. I remember when the whole project started back on the Starship Builder site back in 2004 as the "Klingon Cruiser Recreation Project" - a collaborative effort to recreate the K'T'inga studio model. I am so pleased that you persevered all these many years to realize this project and bring it to fruition as this half studio-scale kit. Do you still have plans to recreate the full-sized studio model?


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Thanks for the kind words!  It has indeed been a long road to get to this point!

There's no practical way to reproduce that texture at 1/2 scale using injection-molding. That's the sort of thing that would have to be added after the fact as "super detailing."

And, yes, I am still working on the full-size version (i.e. "studio-scale"). I just ordered an SLA printer. Between that and the ABS machine I already have, it will at long last be practical for me to make my own parts for this and many other projects.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

That's fantastic news. 


I sincerely hope that you will document your progress on the reproduction of the studio model. That would be a sight to see!


From what I can gather from the photographs, there will be little needed in the way of super-detailing the kit. I only plan to add the vent details on the fore and aft insides of the nacelles, and perhaps replacing some of the piping with fine brass rod (i.e. the "W" piping over the front nacelle inside vent, the "wishbone" where the boom meets the cobra head, and piping on the side of the boom. I will be able to determine better once I have received the kits and have the parts in-hand. 



Otherwise, the detail looks to be exquisite throughout. This may very well be the finest and most intricate _Star Trek_ kit yet produced. Many thanks to you and the fine folks at Round 2 for creating this superb model.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I just received word from Monsters in Motion that there will be a separate photoetch set available for the 1/350 K'T'inga for $24.99.

That would be great if it is truly available separately from the lighting kit, as I am not overly impressed with that offering. 

The timing of the red running lights look completely off compared to what was seen in the film (the rate is too rapid), and apparently some of the LED colors are incorrect for their intended purpose. This is based on the video clip and review of the lighting kit on the All-Scale Trek site.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Sorry, Trek Ace, the supplemental etch set from ParaGrafix is an enhancement that expands on what PL is offering. It is *not* a replacement for the PE being sold by Polar Lights as part of the lighting kit:

ParaGrafix™ - K'Tinga Photoetch Set


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

BTW, I recommend buying the PL lighting kit and then modifying it to suit. It's very well designed but it serves only as a starting point. As such, it includes a lot of useful parts even if you want to make your own custom lighting setup. My recommendations:



First, ditch all the cool white LEDs. Use Natural White (4500K) for the spot lights as well as the point lights in the nacelles and engineering deck. Then, use warm white lights for everything else. You can use your own blinker circuit if you prefer. 

Add dimming for each individual light to get just the right brightness level for each one. 

The "light pipe" in each engine nacelle is ingenious, but, from what I've seen so far, the light pointing aft ends up being too bright compared to the lights on each side. They are all supposed to be about the same brightness. You might be able to address this by first painting the outside of the light pipe white (minus the input and output points, leave those clear). Then, light-block the outside with foil tape, heavy primer, etc., again leaving the the output points clear. Now, test the brightness in a dark room. Reduce the brightness at the rear point by frosting that output point. You can do this with sandpaper. If that does not sufficiently reduce the brightness to "balance" the output, you can also try tinting the rear point with transparent black. If that still doesn't work, a coat of transparent white should do the trick. Again, try to get all five points to be about the same brightness.

Another problem area is the windows in the bulb and Cobra head. The lighting kit setup doesn't really work here. What is needed is an even glow that's not too bright. There are many ways to do this. The key is to avoid having bright "hot spots." Instead, try to establish an even glow of light. Finally, don't make it too bright! So many times I see model spaceships where the windows are so bright it looks like a warp core breach is in progress. LOL

The same issue is present for the "comb" lighting. The kit has two bright hot spots here and it needs to be an even glow. Make the area behind the comb a "light box" and try to illuminate it evenly. Don't let it be too bright.

Finally, the bridge lights needs to be dimmed. The output here must also not be too bright. Don't forget these are WINDOWS and not a continuous ring of light. The window outlines are molded into the clear part but you have to look close in order to see them. ParaGrafix provides a PE piece to frame these windows correctly.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Thanks for clarifying this, Charles.


When I received the announcement from MIM, it was text only on my phone did not include a photo or mention that it was a supplemental set from Paragrafix. 



No warp engine vent screens on the Paragrafix fret? It looks like there would have been plenty of room to include them. Oh, well. I'm sure I'll get it anyway.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

JeffBond said:


> Molded in BLACK! Genius!


With the brass photoetch, it has a John Player Special vibe! John P? :wink2:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Saywhutnow?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

John P said:


> Saywhutnow?


John, since you're known for creative builds in unconventional livery, I thought a JPS K'Tinga might be your thing.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

star-art said:


> BTW, I recommend buying the PL lighting kit and then modifying it to suit. It's very well designed but it serves only as a starting point. As such, it includes a lot of useful parts even if you want to make your own custom lighting setup. My recommendations:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It looks to me like you can add: the flasher on the top aft of the neck timing is incorrect. It looks like they went with more of a strobe, when it should be slower, more like the speed of the red/green flashers on the Enterprise.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I agree. That top strobe is timed way too fast when you look at the shots in the movie.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

I didn't watch the whole video but can anyone tell me if he corrects the orientation of the dome on top of the command bulb? I'm hoping he just had it press fit because it's rotated off to the left rather than having the ridges at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 clock positions.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

In my list of recommendations, I said "You can use your own blinker circuit if you prefer." And, yes, he glued the bridge dome on crooked.


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## Jodet (May 25, 2008)

Culttvman charged my cc this morning - should be shipping in the next week.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my kits. I did decide to go ahead and order the photo etch and light kit, even though I doubt if I will use many of the included LEDs for lighting the model. I also ordered the Paragrafix photo etch set as well as a sheet of fine brass mesh for the warp engine vents.

It appears that instead of a circuit they chose to go with a flashing LED for the running light, which of course creates a completely incorrect flash rate. In the film, the blink rates varied depending on the shot. For the opening shot, the top light cycled at a rate of slightly over one second (25-27 frames) on and slightly under one second (22-23 frames) off. For the underside shot, the light cycled at a rate of about 22 frames on and 21 frames off (both just under one second). Other shots had the rate going slightly above or below the rates stated above. So, a blink rate cycle of approximately one second on and one second off for both running lights is certainly within the ballpark of a film-accurate rate, with a slop of a frame or two on either side.

I'm no electronics expert, but I can certainly work with creating simple circuits for something like recreating the proper running light blink cycle. A 555 timer together with a couple of resistors and a capacitor of correct values could drive a few LEDs at the correct timing (or close enough) to what was seen in the film. In most cases this could be accomplished for about $10 or less in materials cost. I certainly agree with Charles about using warm white LEDs with diffusion and color gels in place of specific colored LEDs. The final effect is far more convincing.

More complicated lighting effects like the slow ramping up and firing of the fore and aft torpedoes would require a more complex circuit. Something I have never attempted before, but am more than willing to try even at my advanced age.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

I'm thinking this is probably close enough for me:

https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/products/slow-flash-led


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

edge10 said:


> I'm thinking this is probably close enough for me:
> 
> https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/products/slow-flash-led


That looks right.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Looks like it could do the trick!

I wonder if you hooked it up in series with a regular, non-blinking red LED, if it could drive both of them to blink at the same rate?


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Trek Ace said:


> Looks like it could do the trick!
> 
> I wonder if you hooked it up in series with a regular, non-blinking red LED, if it could drive both of them to blink at the same rate?


Yep, just like Christmas lights.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

I've used items from nGineering.com with great success. High quality and very reasonable prices:

https://www.ngineering.com/lghting effects for the railroad.htm#VarFlashRR


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

star-art said:


> I've used items from nGineering.com with great success. High quality and very reasonable prices:
> 
> https://www.ngineering.com/lghting effects for the railroad.htm#VarFlashRR


Lots of awesome items, tips and other products - thanks for the link. :thumbsup:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Thanks for the link, Charles.


Several of those would be very useful for driving running lights. The variable-rate flasher with 50% duty cycle combined with the transistor extender board look particularly nice.


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Decent video, looks like a well engineered kit! I think that the lights on the 'cobra head' need to be diffused as the interior lights are simply too obvious, not sure what I'll use there. Same goes for the impulse reactor up top, too easy to note the two lights inside. Either will frost the clear/red plastic or use some other medium....not sure what.

I'd like to see some kind of grillework on the impulse engines proper, will have to refer to pictures to see if this is necessary but again, likely will diffuse those as well.

Never really considered using silly putty as a masking compound, is this a thing? There will be a LOT of it needed and if someone has a better idea, I'd love to hear it! I've used Elmers glue in the past, but it doesn't come off as easily nor go on in a controlled enough fashion for my taste.

Looking like a fun build ahead!

Tib


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Tiberious said:


> Decent video, looks like a well engineered kit! I think that the lights on the 'cobra head' need to be diffused as the interior lights are simply too obvious, not sure what I'll use there. Same goes for the impulse reactor up top, too easy to note the two lights inside. Either will frost the clear/red plastic or use some other medium....not sure what.
> 
> I'd like to see some kind of grillework on the impulse engines proper, will have to refer to pictures to see if this is necessary but again, likely will diffuse those as well.
> 
> ...


 I use Silly Putty all the time for masking on figure models. Way better than liquid latex for masking complex shapes. And it’s reusable.


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

I've found either frosting or painting the inside of the clear parts white really helps diffuse LED light--white paint still allows most of the light to get through but really brings down the hot spots.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

You can also use a layer or two of Rosco Cinegel Tough Frost to spread out and diffuse the light. It can be combined with theatrical color gels or cc gels for altering the output color of the LEDs.


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Polyfill placed between the LED and the window is also a great diffuser.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Trek Ace said:


> You can also use a layer or two of Rosco Cinegel Tough Frost to spread out and diffuse the light. It can be combined with theatrical color gels or cc gels for altering the output color of the LEDs.


Yep. At our scale, for the budget-minded, one can often do the job with the samples from a couple of Rosco swatch books. 

Also, consider Rosco Tough Silk to blur the spacing between lights in one direction. One application would be over an LED strip used to light warp engines on an Enterprise Refit. Of course, a cheap alternative would be to sand clear plastic in one direction perpendicular to the desired blur.


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Received my K'Tinga and light kit from CultTVMan just now. :thumbsup:


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

I wonder if aftermarket bits will be added--like true disruptor turrets to go underside the forward manta--not just raised plates


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

If you mean the details at the corners under the manta-ray hull - those are correct to the miniature. The TMP blueprints were created before the model itself was finished...

Now, you COULD probably copy the parts from under the Command Platform and create your own variant (not that such an idea would occur to ANYONE on this site...).


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

I just wrote some feedback to Round 2 on this kit. Mostly some instruction issues I have but also that I'm not a huge fan of making the builder revise part 4 (the piece under the impulse reactor grille atop the ship forward of the shuttle bay) by cutting it into three pieces. This, for many modelers would result in rough lines, potential light leaks, and cut fingers  Such a visible piece should've been molded in three pieces (if it's as necessary for the lighted build as implied, I'm not there yet....) in the first place. Much less impact on the kit as their solution is. That, or simply having the piece split up and included in the lighting kit. I'm still scratching my head over the inclusion of a clear piece to go on the front of the cobra shroud but none for the bulb itself, particularly as I intend to either frost it or use some other means mentioned above to diffuse the light. This will result in a different look for the lights in one area vs. the other, not something I'd prefer.

My next step now is to go to the web to see how best to apply the silly putty mask. I'm concerned about any overlap hurting the finished paint. I'm considering pushing it in from behind and using an xacto knife to cut/scrape the excess off the outside. Then, perhaps, using a pin or knife point to pull it out after painting. If anyone knows a better method, please share it with me!

So far I'm enjoying this kit, though I'm not far into it awaiting some Tamiya Nato Black spray to use as a fine primer to protect the detail, so many other primers simply are too thick and could affect the end result, to my way of thinking.

Tib


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)




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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

I'm leaning toward painting my K't'inga the on-screen appearance rather than the actual studio colors. On screen (at least until a remastered 4K print is released) the ship almost looks more bluish-silver than dark green. In the video Robn1 posted, I actually like how the head and neck look at 19:31 before he starts spraying the green topcoat. I respect all the research that's gone into picking the actual colors, but this may be one of those "it's my model" moments where I'm painting it to match my memories.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

You mean something like this?


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

I agree completely about the colors. I really, really don't like the bright green color. The model might have looked this way on stage, but, thankfully, it did not appear this way on screen. Instead, the colors were "de-saturated" during optical compositing such that it seemed more like a gray base color with "tints" of brown, green, and tan. That is how I plan to paint my model. The above image was created by "de-saturating" colors in Photoshop. It provides a sort of "proof of concept" of what I have in mind for the paint scheme of my own replica (which will be studio scale rather than 1/350).


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Yeah, star-art, that's pretty dang close! Given how some of the panels react to the light in some of the shots, I'm also thinking of mixing in some interference greens and blues. I want to get some extra kicks of light coming off the spotlights, especially on the upper hull. I've always wondered whether they used some of the same pearlescent paints they used on the E when painting the K't'inga. Regardless, I think your image captures the kind of cast-iron, Soviet submarine look I'm going for. :thumbsup:


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

BTW, my wife wrapped her Christmas presents to me the other day and I can see the K't'inga-sized box staring at me from across the room. It's RIGHT THERE and I can't do nuthin' about it for three more weeks!


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## Fozzie (May 25, 2009)

Hunk A Junk said:


> I'm leaning toward painting my K't'inga the on-screen appearance rather than the actual studio colors. On screen (at least until a remastered 4K print is released) the ship almost looks more bluish-silver than dark green. In the video Robn1 posted, I actually like how the head and neck look at 19:31 before he starts spraying the green topcoat. I respect all the research that's gone into picking the actual colors, but this may be one of those "it's my model" moments where I'm painting it to match my memories.


I plan on doing the same.


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## electric indigo (Dec 21, 2011)

Hunk A Junk said:


> BTW, my wife wrapped her Christmas presents to me the other day and I can see the K't'inga-sized box staring at me from across the room.


That will be the new vacuum cleaner robot...


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

....AKA cat transport device! :cheers2:


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Since I work from home and end up doing the lion's share (cat's share?) of the vacuuming, a robot wouldn't be a disappointment. :grin2:


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## SUNGOD (Jan 20, 2006)

Tiberious said:


> I just wrote some feedback to Round 2 on this kit. Mostly some instruction issues I have but also that I'm not a huge fan of making the builder revise part 4 (the piece under the impulse reactor grille atop the ship forward of the shuttle bay) by cutting it into three pieces. This, for many modelers would result in rough lines, potential light leaks, and cut fingers  Such a visible piece should've been molded in three pieces (if it's as necessary for the lighted build as implied, I'm not there yet....) in the first place. Much less impact on the kit as their solution is. That, or simply having the piece split up and included in the lighting kit. I'm still scratching my head over the inclusion of a clear piece to go on the front of the cobra shroud but none for the bulb itself, particularly as I intend to either frost it or use some other means mentioned above to diffuse the light. This will result in a different look for the lights in one area vs. the other, not something I'd prefer.
> 
> My next step now is to go to the web to see how best to apply the silly putty mask. I'm concerned about any overlap hurting the finished paint. I'm considering pushing it in from behind and using an xacto knife to cut/scrape the excess off the outside. Then, perhaps, using a pin or knife point to pull it out after painting. If anyone knows a better method, please share it with me!
> 
> ...




There's no clear parts for the bulb?


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

*Problems and more problems with this thing!*

Guys, I really wanted this one to be a huge success, first model of any consequence since my tremors calmed down (didn't go away) and I planned and planned to get it right. Unfortunately the HORRIBLE directions for lighting, lacking any kind of order of assembly help resulted in my making some very poor choices. While it's coming together, it's not the perfect build I'd hoped for.

Putting the neck on before assembling the entire secondary hull was a huge mistake, please don't make it! That's the biggest in a long line of blunders both my own and those assisted by my unsteady hands. Heck, I haven't even gotten to painting yet!

That said, I have a very dumb question. On the last panel of the included instructions it shows pieces 68 and 69 going somewhere near the base of the neck. For the life of me, I don't see a place for them. Admittedly I screwed up on some of the detail locations on the secondary hull where the neck attaches, but I don't believe that is where they go.....but where they belong? No idea. After looking at a ton of pictures online, I still can't spot them

Any help on this embarrassing question would be most appreciated!

Thanks,

Tib


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Tiberious said:


> On the last panel of the included instructions it shows pieces 68 and 69 going somewhere near the base of the neck.


This pic of the test shot should help, and one of the filming model.


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Thank you so much Starcruiser, clear as day to me now. I think I need more sleep and less stressful modeling mistakes! Thanks again!

Tib


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Tiberious said:


> Thank you so much Starcruiser, clear as day to me now. I think I need more sleep and less stressful modeling mistakes! Thanks again!
> 
> Tib










:thumbsup:


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

Tiberious said:


> Thank you so much Starcruiser...


Um, who?


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## StarCruiser (Sep 28, 1999)

Not sure what message he's replying to...

I haven't said anything in this thread since last year!


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

I'm officially another victim of K't'inga Angled Neck Tragedy (or KANT). Everything was looking good as I assembled the boom, command ball, and cobra head assemblies. I checked for warping against flat and level surfaces and it all seemed fine. The problem comes when attaching the boom assembly onto the main hull. Round 2 did a good thing by making this connection point super strong with locking pins, but... there's no way to do a dry fit of the connection to check the angle without wrestling the pieces back apart and possibly damaging both. Once those pieces are connected, they're locked in. It was only after I had the boom connection made that I stepped back and could see the angle. I wasn't willing to risk damaging the pieces to try to break them apart again and with all the lighting wires running through the neck, there's really no way to cut it apart and try to fix it.

So, if you haven't built the kit yet, really check your pieces for warping. And then check them again. And then do it ten more times. And then take a hard look at the way the boom neck piece connects to the main hull. I suggest cutting away the locking pins so you can dry fit the pieces without locking them together. Once you confirm that the neck assembly isn't crooked, then secure the crap out of the neck using glue, CA, epoxy, titanium bands -- whatever you need to do to make it strong.

Don't let KANT strike you.


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