# Revell & AMT Enterprises, side by side



## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

A Revell Enterprise of my very own should be here any day now. As promised, I'll be doing some direct side by side comparison pics with one of my old AMT builds, probably the Constellation.

This should be fun. :thumbsup:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This I'm really lookin' forward to!:thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

One of the things I'm planning is to see just how well a good primer coat will minimize those grid lines.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Good idea.

My main target would be the 'ridge' on the underside of the saucer- not _easy_ to make go away-:freak:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I'm not planning any alterations. This'll be a straight-outta-da-box build.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I think it's an impressive model any which way you do it.:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

This should be good!


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## KUROK (Feb 2, 2004)

Where's the photo?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I have to actually get the model first. This is just to get things set up so I'll be ready to go when that blessed event transpires.


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## Yes it's me (Jun 25, 2008)

I hope you don't have to wait as long as I am for mine. It's been almost six weeks since I ordered mine from a hobbyshop in Scotland. This is my first overseas purchase, so it's all new to me.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

We're in the "any time now" phase. If it's not here in the next couple days, I'll start getting concerned.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

You gonna light the Revell up at all, Cap'n?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Nah, I'll save any lighting attempts for the 350.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain April said:


> Nah, I'll save any lighting attempts for the 350.


*sadface*

Well, it'll still be grand!
:thumbsup:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Yes said:


> I hope you don't have to wait as long as I am for mine. It's been almost six weeks since I ordered mine from a hobbyshop in Scotland. This is my first overseas purchase, so it's all new to me.


Sounds like the same place I ordered an _Enterprise_ and Klingon from on November 7th. Nothing from them since the acknowledgment of the order placed. I've emailed them several times, but there has been no response after 11 weeks.

I emailed them a few weeks ago that I wished to cancel the order. Still no response - but my credit card has never been charged, so perhaps they did indeed cancel the order. If I don't hear from them by next week, then I will talk to the bank about refusing payment should the order ever be processed. There is also no provision on their website for checking order status or history. Very frustrating.


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Trek Ace said:


> Sounds like the same place I ordered an _Enterprise_ and Klingon from on November 7th. Nothing from them since the acknowledgment of the order placed. I've emailed them several times, but there has been no response after 11 weeks.
> 
> I emailed them a few weeks ago that I wished to cancel the order. Still no response - but my credit card has never been charged, so perhaps they did indeed cancel the order. If I don't hear from them by next week, then I will talk to the bank about refusing payment should the order ever be processed. There is also no provision on their website for checking order status or history. Very frustrating.


Are there any dealers in the USA carrying this kit?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

If there are, expect to pay more than fifty bucks.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

At the moment, apparently Revell-Germany has no arrangements to market these kits in the U.S. That forces us to purchase from overseas. I got my Klingon D7 from England via eBay for a total cost of $51 including shipping.

Yes, I have pics, will start a comparison thread shortly....


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## Bay7 (Nov 8, 1999)

Tis something odd about ordering this (these) in the UK.

I ordered one when the E came out and gleefully awaited its arrival - don't often get to see kits first on this side of the pond. I started to get peeved when reviews started popping up from US buyers before I'd even had a chance to get my grubby mits on it!

It finally turned up 4 weeks later - I cut all sorts of bits off to make it more accurate before giving up and wanting to start afresh.

I got one off ebay this time - usually get speedy delivery, had to wait A MONTH this time!!!

Its like its the 1980's where they used to say allow 28 days for delivery - it feels like shops aren't keeping any in stock and are ordering a batch from Germany - I'm sure if I had gone straight to a German site I would have got it in a week!

Very odd.

Steve


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I ordered the D7 in mid-December. It took nearly 4 weeks to arrive. But given the Holidays and the cross-the-pond travel, it seemed reasonable.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

charonjr said:


> I ordered the D7 in mid-December. It took nearly 4 weeks to arrive. But given the Holidays and the cross-the-pond travel, it seemed reasonable.


i ordered both the D7 and Enterprise on Ebay from overseas. It only took like 10 days to get them
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revell-Mo...es_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item3f13085027

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revell-Mo...es_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item415fa7bd73


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## John F (May 31, 2001)

jaws62666 said:


> i ordered both the D7 and Enterprise on Ebay from overseas. It only took like 10 days to get them
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revell-Model-Kit-Star-Trek-Captain-Kirk-USS-Enterprise-NCC-1701-04880-NEW-/270902251559?pt=UK_ToysGames_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item3f13085027
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Revell-Mo...es_ModelKits_ModelKits_JN&hash=item415fa7bd73


 
I ordered my first one from the same seller, had it in about 10 days,
ordered a second one from a different seller, it's been nearly 3 weeks still haven't seen it yet.


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## Yes it's me (Jun 25, 2008)

It's been six weeks today since i ordered the Enterprise. Can't wait for this to get here!


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## Yes it's me (Jun 25, 2008)

Sidenote: I thought sure I posted more then 3 times! Guess I'll be doing more now.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Well, mystery solved as to why the kit is taking so damned long. Once again, they've stuck idiot mail carriers on our route who haven't quite mastered the art of actually coming to the door to deliver a package that's too big for the parcel boxes down at the mailboxes at the clubhouse. Adding insult to injury is the nice little "final notice" note.

Somebody's getting torn a new one Monday morning...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

They do not deserve to live.

Kill them later.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

If they'd just kept our old mail carrier, this wouldn't be a problem, since she has enough sense to track down the condo goes to if it doesn't fit in the box. Sometimes she'd even bring the rest of the mail, too.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Got it, and did a little test fitting. For a kit this complex, it goes together surprisingly well.

I think I have a solution for the backwards stand. Since the star and border are duplicated on the underside, just flip it upside down. The insignia is now correct, and the stand can double as a candy dish.


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## Yes it's me (Jun 25, 2008)

Captain April said:


> I think I have a solution for the backwards stand. Since the star and border are duplicated on the underside, just flip it upside down. The insignia is now correct, and the stand can double as a candy dish.


Forward thinking!


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Yes said:


> Forward thinking!


_Officer_ thinking, Lieutenant!


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## BrianM (Dec 3, 1998)

...love the logo bases.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Should also help in the voting should I get this puppy ready in time for the model contest at Starfest in April. 

Just keep it filled with Hershey Kisses and the top prize is mine :devil:

I'll start getting some pics up as soon as I either locate my camera or figure out how to work my mom's.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain April said:


> Starfest in April.


Starfest... in April... Captain April...... 

IT'S A TARP!!!


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

Hi Captain, photos soon I hope?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Just need to break out my laptop for some converting...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Here are the first pics...

First, next to an old long box build...










...and a later short box...










Shut the flash off for the next few, for better view of how the upper saucer curves...



















...and with the flash back on...










...and the whole lineup...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Yikes. I have some issues with the top of the saucer section too...
Yeah, straight out of the box is the way to go- anything else is a world of modeling pain. 
It will be a worthy addition to the history of the model versions!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Getting ready to primer, and see how well those gridlines hold up.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain April said:


> Getting ready to primer, and see how well those gridlines hold up.


Hey- I found an easy way to make them disappear:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

That'd work about as well as the primer.

That's right, sports fans, long before a primer coat would do any good erasing those gridlines, you're looking at major drippage. So resolve at this stage whether or not youj're gonna live with them or not, because if you don't want 'em, prepare for a lot of putty and sanding.

In other tragic news, I appear to have lost the bit that goes on the upper saucer, above the impulse engines (often referred to as a linear accelerator, on the eleven footer it actually covered the bolts that attached the saucer from the secondary hull). There's still a chance that it might turn up, but worst case scenario, it looks like I'll be chopping up the old AMT kit I have for parts.

Seemed a bit spindly anyway, so...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

More pics soon, btw...


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Chrisisall said:


> Hey- I found an easy way to make them disappear:


Cool Picture, wonder why the network had a problem with her belly button?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Captain April said:


> That'd work about as well as the primer.
> That's right, sports fans, long before a primer coat would do any good erasing those gridlines, you're looking at major drippage. So resolve at this stage whether or not youj're gonna live with them or not, because if you don't want 'em, prepare for a lot of putty and sanding.


Have you thought about brushing on a thick primer like Mr Surfacer? Dob it on nice and thick then sand smooth before spraying on your regular primer. Might take a few applications but that might do the trick.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

kenlee said:


> Cool Picture, wonder why the network had a problem with her belly button?


I don't have a problem with her belly button.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Trekkriffic said:


> Have you thought about brushing on a thick primer like Mr Surfacer? Dob it on nice and thick then sand smooth before spraying on your regular primer. Might take a few applications but that might do the trick.


That's a lot more work than I plan on putting into this. I'm just going for a basic, out-of-the-box build.

Plus, I've always gone with the approach of the gray primer being the final hull color anyway, so aside from a touch-up here and there, the hull is painted as far as I'm concerned.

So, next up is to paint the windows from the backside so I can put it all together.


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

It looks to be about the size of the Cut Away. Maybe 22"?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

It's actually very close in size to the old AMT 18" kit, enough that some parts look to be interchangeable. As a matter of fact, I'm looking at having to cut up an old AMT kit to replace a part for this kit that I have apparently lost. (Details upthread.)


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

The guy at the LHS pointed out an option I'd forgotten about, specifically the option of asking Revell to replace the part (or, more likely, the whole sprue the part came from). I figured that option had gone the way of the singing telegram, but if Revell Germany has an old fashioned concept of customer service, it just might work.

If not, I'm still looking at the prospect of doing a spine transplant from some poor unsuspecting AMT 18"er...


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## kenlee (Feb 11, 2010)

Captain April said:


> The guy at the LHS pointed out an option I'd forgotten about, specifically the option of asking Revell to replace the part (or, more likely, the whole sprue the part came from). I figured that option had gone the way of the singing telegram, but if Revell Germany has an old fashioned concept of customer service, it just might work.
> 
> If not, I'm still looking at the prospect of doing a spine transplant from some poor unsuspecting AMT 18"er...


It might be easier to just make the part from some evergreen strip stock, that plastic is fairly soft so it is easy to carve and shape. This would have to be easier than carving up another kit to get a part that is still going have to be carved and sanded down to fit.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

If I had the original part to use as a reference, sure, but then I wouldn't be needing to make the part in the first place.

In any case, I'm hoping Revell of Germany will come to the rescue on this one, and since it's a new kit, the chances are probably pretty good.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Got a response from Revell. Looks like it won't be a problem replacing the part (just needed to give them a bit more information, which was odd since I thought I was quite clear in my initial email).


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Did you send it in German?:tongue:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Well, I tried cramming some sauerkraut into the floppy drive, but I think I may have shorted something...


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Revell of Germany does not appreciate such shenanigans.
:freak:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Neither did my computer.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain April said:


> Neither did my computer.












Peace be with you, friend.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Good luck getting a reply back from Germany. 
They're all at Festival now!*


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

A little early for Oktoberfest, ain't it?


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## liskorea317 (Mar 27, 2009)

Captain April said:


> A little early for Oktoberfest, ain't it?


Not for Germans!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

True.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Note to PL regarding the 1/350 kit: Please make the outer domes for the warp nacelles frosted. Doing it yourself can be kind of a crapshoot, especially when you're dealing with an old can of dullcoat.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

I hate it when they spit.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I got a lot of powdery crap before the proper dullcoat started coming out, which made for an interesting effect.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Try airbrushing Micro-Flat?


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Try Floquil Flat Finish. Just dob on a liberal amount and tilt and turn the piece with your fingertips to spread it around inside the dome so you get a nice even coat. 
Then set it facing down using tape or modelling clay so it stays level and any remainder pools in the center; although if you use just the right amount there shouldn't be much. 
Worked great on the domes of my Romulan BOP and my current 1/1000 Enterprise project. 

Here's a pic comparing Dullcote on the left and Floquil Flat on the right:


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Ooooo, very much better.:thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Actually, the one on the left is what I was going for, somewhat translucent, so you could still see the inner dome with the black ribs (and hopefully the multicolored dots on that bulkhead, but that would've been a stretch in any case), but what I got was more like the spray flocking that's applied to Christmas trees. Did I mention it's an old can?

Airbrushing is out because I don't have, nor can I afford, an airbrush at this time.

I may just pop those domes off and try and clean 'em out a bit, see if that helps.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Captain April said:


> Airbrushing is out because I don't have, nor can I afford, an airbrush at this time.


Airbrush is the CGI of model making IMO.:tongue:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Captain April said:


> Actually, the one on the left is what I was going for, somewhat translucent, so you could still see the inner dome with the black ribs (and hopefully the multicolored dots on that bulkhead, but that would've been a stretch in any case), but what I got was more like the spray flocking that's applied to Christmas trees. Did I mention it's an old can?
> 
> Airbrushing is out because I don't have, nor can I afford, an airbrush at this time.
> 
> I may just pop those domes off and try and clean 'em out a bit, see if that helps.


Sorry. I thought you were lighting it.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Nah, I'm saving any attempts at lighting for the big model.

In a related note, I'm thinking of taking a run at my 1/350 NX-01 and see if the lighting kit I have in that one still works.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Got the domes off without incident, and was rather gratified with how easy it was to scrub out the botched dullcoat. I'll try again when the weather warms up.

Moving to the stand and balance issues: The model itself is actually very well balanced. It'll sit perfectly well all by it's lonesome. The problem is that the stand tilts the ol' girl slightly forward, hence the stated need for a small lead weight in the hangar deck (something I neglected to do, btw  ).

However, with my flipped-around base, this issue is now fixable, thanks to the tabs of the stand extending past the bottom (formerly the top) of the stand by about an eighth of an inch. Snip the back ends of the tabs at roughly a fifteen to twenty degree angle, and the ship now sits level on the stand, with the added bonus that the effect is so subtle that it's really not readily apparent that the stand is now leaning back slightly.

Good times. :thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

New pics later today, provided the family leaves me alone long enough...


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Captain April said:


> Nah, I'm saving any attempts at lighting for the big model....


Practicing on a smaller version before doing the bigger version may save on your aspirin bill later and give some insight into what you'll be facing on the big one.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Well, I've got a 1/350 NX-01 with a nifty light kit that's in dire need of repair, so I've got that to practice with. Maybe by some miracle I might still have a previous attempt at lighting an old 18" AMT buried somewhere, but I seem to recall the main aggravation at that, besides the circuit board not working, was the tight spaces.

Anyhoo, the new pics...




























Yeah, the deflector dish is off in this one (it popped off while taking the model out of the box it's been resting in; no damage to the dish) but it shows off the innards of the Bussards so well I kept it. Still need to re-dullcoat those outer domes...










I originally wanted to have the two ships resting on their hulls, but the Constellation (rather uncharacteristically) isn't balanced well enough to sit without tipping over. The Revell, on the other hand, sits quite easily on the hull, provided you haven't put that lead weight in the hangar deck.










And here's that altered stand, and what makes it work...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Nothin'?


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## James Tiberius (Oct 23, 2007)

I think its great looking!

How did you get the colors in the nacells? are those LEDs or did you paint the insides?


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## Warped9 (Sep 12, 2003)

The Revell doesn't look that bad really except for the lower part of the saucer and the malformed nab dish housing. Interesting comparison.


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## Guy Schlicter (May 3, 2004)

Captain April, I am going to start on my own Revell USS Enterprise soon. I take it I can get away without adding 90 grams of weight to the Hanger Deck Area and the model will sit ok on the base. Am I right.


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## crowe-t (Jul 30, 2010)

Captain April said:


> Well, I've got a 1/350 NX-01 with a nifty light kit that's in dire need of repair, so I've got that to practice with. Maybe by some miracle I might still have a previous attempt at lighting an old 18" AMT buried somewhere, but I seem to recall the main aggravation at that, besides the circuit board not working, was the tight spaces.
> 
> Anyhoo, the new pics...
> 
> ...


That's a great idea with the stand. I still can't believe Revell released this kit with the base backwards.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

James Tiberius said:


> I think its great looking!
> 
> How did you get the colors in the nacells? are those LEDs or did you paint the insides?


Ditto!!!
-Jim


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Paint on the inside of the Bussards. Probably won't show up much once I get those outer domes properly dulled, but it's something.

As for the balance issue, yeah, leave out the weight and it's balanced beautifully. I was gonna have both ships just sitting on their hulls, but for some reason the Constellation wouldn't sit right. Probably the little loose bits rattling around inside.

It's also probably about time I replaced those missing intercoolers on the Constellation, now that I have an old kit for parts...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Wondering if I should do the decals now or wait for that replacement part...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

As a side note, I also plan on using the space decals to fix the Constellation, with an assist from an old AMT sheet.


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## CLBrown (Sep 8, 2010)

Captain April said:


> Nothin'?


Sorry, CRA... been enjoying watching, just not much up for posting at the moment because I haven't got much to add... 

This is the Potempkin as far as I'm concerned, and I'll build mine "mainly" stock from the box (but with massive putty work to fill in those god-awful gridlines, of course).

The shape issues I can justify as a different build, even if at the same dockyard. It can even have a different model of dish mount, with subtly different capabilities... so I can live with that. But two-foot-wide "canyons" in the hull plating? Nahhh....


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

There comes a point where you just have to ignore the accuracy issues and build the damn kit. And since the goofs on this one are either so subtle you have to be an expert to spot them or a masochist to undertake the major surgery required to fix them, I'm taking the easy way out and just building the damn kit.

If nothing else, this will serve as a nice example of what you get with a out-of-the-box build, with no major modifications aside from the stand. Feel free to use it as a baseline for planning your major modifications to your own kits.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

The more I look at the Revell Enterprise, with its elongated dish assembly, the more I see the Animated Enterprise. :thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Like I said somewhere around here, the issue isn't that the Revell guys didn't do enough research, it's that they did too much, and none of the disparate versions of the Enterprise match up to each other. So, what we got in this instance is an amalgamation of all of 'em. The deflector dish from the animated version, the saucer from the three footer, Miarecki's overwrought detailing, etc., etc.


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

Captain April said:


> Like I said somewhere around here, the issue isn't that the Revell guys didn't do enough research, it's that they did too much, and none of the disparate versions of the Enterprise match up to each other. So, what we got in this instance is an amalgamation of all of 'em. The deflector dish from the animated version, the saucer from the three footer, Miarecki's overwrought detailing, etc., etc.


And that is, to some extent, a good thing. When I look at it, I see the Enterprise, I don't have to struggle to figure out what it is. It may not match up to fictional standards, but it is completely recognizable and well done. :thumbsup:


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

The kit looks good when you see it built up. It's not accurate to the filming miniature, but neither is the old AMT kit. I too would build it as the Potemkin, not as the Enterprise. Don't mind the grid lines, but at $50+ to get the kit from jolly old England, I have to pass.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Just got through glosscoating it, decaling should commence shortly.


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

Is it me or is there pronounced nacelle droop?


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## CLBrown (Sep 8, 2010)

RSN said:


> The more I look at the Revell Enterprise, with its elongated dish assembly, the more I see the Animated Enterprise. :thumbsup:


Look more closely The dish "base" assembly isn't elongated. It's the right length. But it's far too small in diameter, which makes it seem "elongated"...


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## RSN (Jul 29, 2008)

CLBrown said:


> Look more closely The dish "base" assembly isn't elongated. It's the right length. But it's far too small in diameter, which makes it seem "elongated"...


I did look close. I don't care what causes the illusion, I know what I see and what it reminds ME of, I stand by my assesment thank you very much! :thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

jbond said:


> Is it me or is there pronounced nacelle droop?


There better not be...

Anyhoo, the decals are on and the dullcoat is drying. Should have new pics sometime tomorrow.


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## charonjr (Mar 27, 2000)

I think that the nacelles are "drooping", but it's deliberate. The centerlines of the nacelles are not at the same pitch as that of the saucer. At least, not in the photos shown so far. 

Oddly, this is the same thing PL did with the 1/350 NX-01.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd here we are....



















I managed to get the Constellation to sit up straight with the help of some nail clippers wedged under the hull...



















It's becoming clear that I need a new camera, or at least an add-on so that I can control the focus of this one...










This one, I think, pretty well illustrates my premise that we are dealing with two distinct, yet very similar, classes of starship. To the unschooled observer, they look like the very same type of ship, but there are at least a half dozen folks here, myself included, who can easily point out the several structural differences between the two, like a naval expert can pick out the myriad differences between, say, Kitty Hawk and Nimitz class aircraft carriers, while to the average shmuck on the street, they look the same.










Hopefully that missing piece will show up in time for Starfest...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

In other news, I did a brief evaluation of my next project, the restoration of my poor, bedraggled 1/350 NX-01.

Let's just say that I am damned lucky that I found that extra kit in the thrift store. Turns out I'm missing pieces I didn't even know I was missing.  Don't know yet if I'll attempt an aztec pattern, but I'll definitely have to redo just about all the decals. And, good news, the lights still work, even in the detached nacelles. :thumbsup:

I'll be doing a separate thread for that one...


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

CA, will you have any extra parts from your NX left over? I am missing one from my kit as well.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

What I have is a whole 'nother kit, snagged at the local thrift store for about five bucks, so I might be able to spare something (although I have some nebulous plans for making a diorama of the wreck of the NX-02 Columbia, with a bunch of Micro Machine runabouts).

So far, the decals, the starboard (I think) nacelle strut, and the deflector dish assembly, are all spoken for, to be used in the refurbishing, along with a few other odds and ends to replace other odds and ends that are missing.

Stay tuned.


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## WarpCore Breach (Apr 27, 2005)

Will do. I need one of the saucer underside thruster quads. Your dio probably won't need those!  I can provide the exact part number a little later.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Sounds like a possibility.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Now, if I managed to hold onto a soldering iron, this next project should go well...


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

I just got the Revell Klingon kit...good lord, the kit BOX is HUGE. About five inches longer than it needs to be--I wonder how many times the contents slammed back and forth around inside that thing during its trip from overseas. The kit itself looks very nice though and should look great alongside the ERTL K'Tinga.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I transferred everything to an old AMT long box during the construction phase, because the box it came in is impossible to work out of.


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## CLBrown (Sep 8, 2010)

RSN said:


> I did look close. I don't care what causes the illusion, I know what I see and what it reminds ME of, I stand by my assesment thank you very much! :thumbsup:


Well, I just wanted to point out that it's the CORRECT LENGTH, not 'too long." Just in case anyone else would be confused by that. 'Nuff said.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Now we just wait for that last part to show up from Revell and we can call this baby complete...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Apparently, the third email is the trick.

Should get the replacement part, along with a replacement decal sheet for my Voyager kit, in about four to six weeks.


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

*Better late than never.*
-Jim


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

_*The part has finally arrived!*_

Unfortunately, without the Voyager decals, so I'm wondering if I should take that as a "no, you can't also have a decal sheet for a completely different model", or should I politely pester them again on this one.

Should have a fully complete model in short order.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Not sure if anyone has picked up on this yet but Revell obviously had lighting in mind for the Enterprise since, besides all the obvious parts being in clear plastic, the two bulkheads that are cemented inside the engineering hull are designed to take a 9v battery. There's no mention of this in the instructions but I'm guessing the deflector assembly could be left loose to access the battery.


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

The nacelles are high and proud. I seem to remember blueprints, drawings of the TOS ent that look very like the Revell.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

I suspect the FJ blueprints were consulted for this kit, even if just a bit.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

miniature sun said:


> Not sure if anyone has picked up on this yet but Revell obviously had lighting in mind for the Enterprise since, besides all the obvious parts being in clear plastic, the two bulkheads that are cemented inside the engineering hull are designed to take a 9v battery. There's no mention of this in the instructions but I'm guessing the deflector assembly could be left loose to access the battery.



Unlike all the later versions of the AMT kit,

the original AMT Enterprise lighted kit was designed so that you could twist the deflector assembly and thereby use it as an on/off switch!!!

Not sure how you would keep it in if it were removable though. Don't have a Revell kit.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

The deflector assembly is not easy to get in or out, and fits tightly enough that using it for a switch isn't really an option either.

I'd suggest having any power sources and switches well outside the ship itself.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Captain April said:


> The deflector assembly is not easy to get in or out, and fits tightly enough that using it for a switch isn't really an option either.
> 
> I'd suggest having any power sources and switches well outside the ship itself.



The MR Enterprise has a plug in the vertical rod stand, and a recepticle in the model itself, so the model stand serves a dual purpose.

Rel I think used to have access to a source for such stands.
Haven't seen him post here lately though.

Such a configuration could be scratchbuilt with metal rod a wood plaque and some parts from Radio Shack though.

You just couldn't play with it the way I remember playing with an old lighted Klingon D-7 when I was about 10 years old. 


P.S. Anybody notice there's over 100 people in this forum alone at one time?!? I'm going to have to start sending out friend requests just so I'll be able to keep track of who is here without a racing form!!!


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Captain April,

how did your Warp Pylon/Secondary Hull connections slice seams turn out?

Do you forsee any possible future problems with stress causing them to show through?

How did you seal them?


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Didn't really do any real sealing. This is strictly a quick-n'-dirty "slap it together and she how she hangs" build, and compare it to a pre-76 AMT build.

Incidentally, I finally got that last piece painted and installed, should have some final pics up soon.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Yeah, I don't think they're sending me that decal sheet...


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Maybe somebody here has one they can scan for you at high rez and email you?

Can't hurt to ask.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

No worries. Just won a sheet on eBay, so that quest is now at an end.

Granted, $18.50 isn't quite as cheap as "free", but I figured I was pushing my luck anyway with my "while we're at it, could you toss in a decal sheet?"


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> I suspect the FJ blueprints were consulted for this kit, even if just a bit.


I think you're right. It would probably make a good _USS Constitution_ based on those blueprints.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Captain April said:


> I suspect the FJ blueprints were consulted for this kit, even if just a bit.


Something stick out in particular, or is it more of a general impression
that may be hard to pin down?

Any pics? 

Is the hull less accurate to the 11 footer then the 1/350th?

Inquiring nerds like me want to know!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Just unearthed my camera, so I need to slot out some time to clear out some space to set up the models and getting those last comparison pics.

As for accuracy, it's closer than the old AMT kit, but there's a certain level of exchanging one set of errors for another, mainly in contours and proportions. Nothing I can really nail down at present, but considering the 1:350 kit is researched down to the nearest molecule, _anything_ else is going to lack on that front.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Well, here's the key question I have. Is there any documentation on the research done for the Revell Germany Enterprise and Klingon kits? Was there a German Gary K doing all manner of intense, downright obsessive planning work? Do we even know who did research for them?

Or was it just a bunch of intense faceless designers unknown and unsung crafting a kit because they were told to do so (and insert 'just following orders' jokes here if needed)?

Anyone? Maybe some of our brothers overseas have gotten a whiff of the tale?


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Member Petri Blomqvist does live on the continent, in Finland.

I shot him a message hoping maybe he might have some
information he can share.

He's mentioned in the article Gregatron posted a link to,
and he's worked closely with Gary K on the 1/350th TOS E.

Just because he lives in Europe doesn't guarantee anything,
but I'm hoping if he does know anything about the Revell kit
he'll let us know - assuming he has the time.


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Thank you Chuck. I know it's likely foolish but I think it helps the discussion if we can get some context, ya know? We can see, in the kit (kits) the final product and make some assumptions based on comparing the work to other existing Enterprise kits, but we don't KNOW. 

For example, what if, and this is complete speculation, what if for some reason that kit was completely generated with CG data provided by Paramount? Sure it's a crazy thought, but if there was a mandate to "use this data and change nothing" it would explain some aspects, wouldn't it? 

Heck, I don't even have a clue if Revell Germany farms out production to China like everyone else or if they still do it 'old school' and prototype and cut tooling and mold in-house.


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## Petri Blomqvist (Dec 19, 2001)

Unfortunately, I know nothing about the Revell kit beyond the pictures I've seen of it online. I have to say, I was quite astounded when I first saw it - and not in a good way. I can't see a single part that is the right shape, proportion or size on it. Well, the saucer IS circular, but beyond that...

Ok, I realize I'm being very harsh, and of course I'm biased because I know first hand how much effort was put into the PL 1/350 E. But the Revell kit was definitely designed by someone who just didn't care - even without accurate blueprints, just by looking at the wealth of photos that are now available of the original studio model, they should've been able to do better than that.

And that's just about all I can say about that.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Thanks for the time and input, Petri. :thumbsup:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

Also Thank You, Petri. Even non-information is information. 

I know Japan has a very healthy and seemingly vocal plastic kit building community (and I hear they can be surprisingly deadly when discussing flaws in a kit), is there something similar over in the EU or the nations themselves, something akin to here on this BBS?

I guess what I'm asking is, are people 'over there' bitching like we do, and sounds like you do, about this kit? 

(I do hate missed opportunities like this, where they could have so easily spiked a big goal)


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

If I get another one, I might make it the Potemkin. Already have a couple of Constellations I'm happy with (one pre-planet killer, one post and in need of some repair), and with my penchant for explaining away oddball models as different-but-very-similar ship classes, I'm not quite willing to label this model as the Constitution.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Captain April said:


> If I get another one, I might make it the Potemkin. Already have a couple of Constellations I'm happy with (one pre-planet killer, one post and in need of some repair), and with my penchant for explaining away oddball models as different-but-very-similar ship classes, I'm not quite willing to label this model as the Constitution.


As many photos as you are willing to show would still be appreciated.

Even if it is inaccurate compared to the filming miniatures or other models I still find it interesting.

If you could maybe bump up the ISO light sensitivity equivalent and not use the flash it might be a little easier to see some of the detail. The white color when hit by the flash tends to wash out some of the details.

About the only thing that stands out from what I can see in the shots so far is the gridlines that seem to be very heavy - even on the nacelles! :freak:

But again, the model is still interesting to me, even with all the accuracy issues in mind.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Hopefully, I can set something up tomorrow, once certain persons are out of the house for a while.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> Hopefully, I can set something up tomorrow, once certain persons are out of the house for a while.


_Oooh! _You make it sound so _naughty _to have alone time with your models!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Got some pics, all came out extremely blurry, then while setting up the model it fell over and the starboard nacelle decided to jettison itself.

For what it's worth, here they are, pre-cockup...


















































There's an issue with the nacelle struts anyway, so this'll be an opportunity to fix that.


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## HabuHunter32 (Aug 22, 2009)

Captain April said:


> Got some pics, all came out extremely blurry, then while setting up the model it fell over and the starboard nacelle decided to jettison itself.
> 
> For what it's worth, here they are, pre-cockup...
> 
> ...


I have an issue wth the struts on mine also. The parts are not warped but there is an un-natural taper between the nacelles once mounted on the pylons.
They are not parallel to one another. The aft of the nacelles are about 3/16 of an inch closer together than the fore where the domes are. Other than heating the pylons and bending them I'm not quite sure how to fix it.

I'm working on the 350 right now so I wont be getting back to the Revell anytime soon. 

Good luck fixing yours!

Mike


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

The Voyager decals should be on their way from the guy on eBay. Probably start another thread on that one.

On a related note, in the thread regarding lighting the E-D, I mentioned that for some unknown reason, a sprue of clear Voyager parts was included with the E-D kit. Turns out that was bit of luck; when I dug out my SE Voyager kit (to double check on just what I still had), I found out that the clear parts on the standard Voyager kit was different than the SE version. Namely, one kit had a clear deflector dish with an opaque housing, the other version was the other way around, opaque dish and clear housing. So now I can have the whole thing clear.  Don't have the instruction _book_ (it went buh-bye at the same time as the decal sheet), and the gods only know if I still have the little pin somewhere, but the kit itself is complete.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> The Voyager decals should be on their way from the guy on eBay. Probably start another thread on that one.
> 
> On a related note, in the thread regarding lighting the E-D, I mentioned that for some unknown reason, a sprue of clear Voyager parts was included with the E-D kit. . . . So now I can have the whole thing clear.


Dang! That there is like finding a fried onion ring in your french fries! :thumbsup:


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Captain April said:


> The Voyager decals should be on their way from the guy on eBay. Probably start another thread on that one.
> 
> On a related note, in the thread regarding lighting the E-D, I mentioned that for some unknown reason, a sprue of clear Voyager parts was included with the E-D kit. Turns out that was bit of luck; when I dug out my SE Voyager kit (to double check on just what I still had), I found out that the clear parts on the standard Voyager kit was different than the SE version. Namely, one kit had a clear deflector dish with an opaque housing, the other version was the other way around, opaque dish and clear housing. So now I can have the whole thing clear.  Don't have the instruction _book_ (it went buh-bye at the same time as the decal sheet), and the gods only know if I still have the little pin somewhere, but the kit itself is complete.


Lucky guy! Thanks for all the Revell E pics too! :thumbsup:


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## Heero Kasshu (Dec 19, 2012)

I'm having a ton of fun with this build!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Well, feel free to share.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Repairs have been completed, should have some fresh pics up soon.


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

I can't seem to fnd the thread about the different AMT enterprises but could someone please enlighten me as to which kit(s) came with the clear bussard collectors or if someone has some spares they can part with?
Bruce


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

btbrush said:


> I can't seem to fnd the thread about the different AMT enterprises but could someone please enlighten me as to which kit(s) came with the clear bussard collectors or if someone has some spares they can part with?
> Bruce


AMT kits with clear bussards are extremely rare. The only ones I've ever found weren't clear but amber.

Your best bet is to buy a rotating LED set that comes with clear bussards from a company like DLM.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Yeah, that was the very rare '68 long box, and that is a grail kit. Not something you part out. You'd do better making clear resin copies of the regular white plastic Bussards from that period, since the amber plastic ones, for some unfathomable reason, had shorter rectangular bits (brought to you from the same fine folks who put those three inexplicable dimples on the underside of the primary hull :freak: ).


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

Yeah, that's kinda what I was planning to do if I couldn't find the amber ones. When I finally get around to casting some I'll make them available to those interested.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

btbrush said:


> Yeah, that's kinda what I was planning to do if I couldn't find the amber ones. When I finally get around to casting some I'll make them available to those interested.


As Captain April pointed out, if you have the white ones with the longer shields those are much better. The amber ones have shields that are not only shorter, they would not fit on the nacelles properly either without having the inside of the shields sanded down. 

Also be careful of which casting resin you use, many of the ones that claim to be clear end up with a yellowish tint.

The best I've come across can be found here:

http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1120_1156/index.html


Hope this helps! :thumbsup:

Let us know how they come out!


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Under the circumstances, a yellowish tint would be a bonus.


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## publiusr (Jul 27, 2006)

I rather like all the 'inaccurate" takes in that each model has its own charm.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Okay, my three-day timeout is completed, time to get back at this....


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

publiusr said:


> I rather like all the 'inaccurate" takes in that each model has its own charm.


Yeah, I agree. I don't _prefer _ obvious inaccuracies but a beneficial side effect is that you get a variety of interpretations.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

They do make life a bit more interesting, sometimes more interesting that I'd like...


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

Petri Blomqvist said:


> Ok, I realize I'm being very harsh, and of course I'm biased because I know first hand how much effort was put into the PL 1/350 E. But the Revell kit was definitely designed by someone who just didn't care - even without accurate blueprints, just by looking at the wealth of photos that are now available of the original studio model, they should've been able to do better than that.


I had the same thought about the Diamond Select TOS Enterprise. Yes, I know its a toy. But, they did such a good job on the ST TMP version. I had high hopes that it would be good, until the PL model came out. I almost like the Playmates version better.


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## Gary7 (Jan 2, 2013)

btbrush said:


> I can't seem to fnd the thread about the different AMT enterprises but could someone please enlighten me as to which kit(s) came with the clear bussard collectors or if someone has some spares they can part with?
> Bruce


Try this site. Lot of info there. http://culttvman.com/main/?p=3665


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

A very useful article, especially when checking out items on eBay.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

Trekkriffic said:


> *Good luck getting a reply back from Germany.
> They're all at Festival now!*


I was going though the pages of this thread and when I hit this post, I laughed out loud for nearly 10 minutes. Hilarious.


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## GT350R_Modeler (Sep 6, 2005)

I took some similar pics with the PL 1/350 E next the the AMT E...


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

If I can figure out how to work my mom's camera, and upload the pics, I should be able to get some much nicer pictures.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> If I can figure out how to work my mom's camera, and upload the pics, I should be able to get some much nicer pictures.


Remember to throw as much light as possible on the subjects. That will help things focus better. :thumbsup:


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Here we are....


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Some more...


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

The only thing that really bugs me from those views of the _USS Europrise _is that the cooling fins on the nacelles are too thin. Otherwise, it makes for a neat variation on a theme.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

Yeah, I might take Jay Chladek's suggestion and replace them with intercoolers from an old AMT 18" kit, but for now, I'll keep it stock.


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## StarshipClass (Aug 13, 2003)

Captain April said:


> Yeah, I might take Jay Chladek's suggestion and replace them with intercoolers from an old AMT 18" kit, but for now, I'll keep it stock.


Oh, yeah! Those should be close enough and the AMT kit got them accurate.


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## Captain April (May 1, 2004)

In the meantime, while I had the glue out, I also repaired my experiment in kitbashing, the USS Eldridge, but I've posted enough pics of that old bucket.

Next big project, seeing as it looks like the lit E-D is going to take a while longer, is going to be repairing my 1:350 NX-01, with the nifty lights that, miraculously, still work. Just need a new soldering iron.


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## Chuck_P.R. (Jun 8, 2003)

Digging up bones!

Like the side by side pics.


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

Aren't we the archaeologist?

Yeah, I was following this myself.


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