# carb cleaning question



## 79t/a

is their a secret to cleaning carb ive been working on small engines for a while but sometimes they just wont work i use carb and choke cleaner and compressed air . 




also i have this carb i cleaned and got working but it just pours gas through went and primer hole (when not connected ) (float is not stuck) it is a tecumsuh adjustable carb


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## Guest

Tecumseh Carbs are fairly simple units. The float model carbs are easy to rebuild/repair.. Before you start, one thing you will need is a repair manual. (I have free pdf's for members).

There are some common problems with carbs that should be checked before you start a rebuild. Many times the following items will correct the trouble your engine is having. You will still need a repair kit to replace certain gaskets and seals that should be replaced whenever disturbed.
One of the more common problems is the flooding of the carb. If this is your complaint check the float first. Remove the float bowl, float pin and remove the float. Be careful that you do not loosen the float needle valve. Now shake the float and listen for gas inside. If the float sloshes, replace it with a new one. Replace the float needle valve seat and adjust the float per the factory manual. Replace the float bowl gaskets.
If you are experiencing performance problems and suspect the carb, you will have to remove it from the engine to correct the problem. After the carb is off the engine there is one thing you need to check before going any further. Remove the float as above. Now hold the choke and throttle butterflies so that you can shake the carb without them making a sound. Shake the carb and listen for it to rattle. If you do not hear the rattle, the emolltion tube is stuck. This tube is sealed into the body of the carb during manufacturing and can not be replaced. The carb will need to be replaced. Also if the aluminum body of the carb is corroded inside, any rebuild will only be a temporary fix. Once the corrision has started it can not be stopped.
If everything checks out up to here, a rebuild and cleaning should fix the carb. However there is one more tricky thing you will need to do. You must remove the welch plug on the side of the carb. This can be done by driving a sharpened small punch or screw driver through the plug and popping it out. Take extreme care when doing this procedure. There are two jets cast into the carb body under this welch plug. If you damage them the carb will have to be replaced. With the welch plug removed and the main jet (in the bown nut) out the three holes that need to be cleaned are exposed. Using a piece of soft tag wire clean these holes. Now cdlean the complete carb with carb cleaner.
Re-assemble the carb. Make sure that the needle valve seat is completly down into its bore. After driving in the new welch plug, paint it with finger nail polish to seal it. Adjust the float height using a #4 twist drill as directed in the repair manual


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## Guest

Now that your carb is rebuilt don't drop the ball on the 90 yard line. Replace the gaskets between the carb and the engine, and the carb and the air cleaner. One common mistake made is to fail to replace the fuel line between the carb and the fuel/filter tank. If the carb was full of dirt or varnish the fuel will also be. Plus when the carb or fuel line is removed, the inside of the hose usually is damaged. Small fragments of hose materials can break loose and flow in to the carb. This will ruin the job that you just completed.
After the carb is remounted to the engine it must be adjusted correctly. You will need a repair manual to do this. Remember that the idle circuit must be adjusted first. Without the idle circuit working correctly you will never get the main jet adjusted correctly.
Good luck


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## 79t/a

can i have thr repair manuel for tecumseh carbs my email is [email protected] thanks steve


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## snobug

May I have the repair manuel for tecumseh carbs? My email address is [email protected]

Thanks,
Bob


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## certifiedtech

One more thing on tecumseh LVC and EVC (late "90`s' and newer) that no one would know unless they took "update classes". Thread sealant or "locktite" must be applied to the front left air cleaner bracket screw to avoid leakage. The hole for this screw is drilled completely through to the primer chamber. This is not mentioned in the repair manuals.


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## hdman97

Could I also get a copy of the repair manual for tecumseh carbs? My email address is [email protected]

Thanks..................


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## RKDOC

Could I also gert a copy of the tecumseh carb repair manual? My email is [email protected]

Thanks


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## missing

*Could i get a copy of the Tecumseh Repair PDF*

could i get a copy of teh Tecumseh Repair PDF. 

thanks


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## uncleglenny

could i get a copy of the Tecumseh Repair PDF thank you [email protected]


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## ScironTheBandit

Would it be possible to also receive a copy of the carb repair manual? My email addy is [email protected] thanks!

~Adam


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## certifiedtech

Most any business selling Outdoor Power Equipment or any Tecumseh dealing should have tecumseh manuals for sale.

If your engine has "over head valves" make sure you ask for an OHV repair manual.


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## hdman97

Anyone receive the carb repair manual?

Could I also get a copy of the repair manual for tecumseh carbs? My email address is [email protected]


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## PaulChristenson

The message related to the manual dates from 2004 and apparently he is no longer on this forum...


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## mowerman

your carb is pourous tecum. carbs have a history of this,it must be replaced


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## mowerman

Your Carb Is Pourous Tech. Carbs Have A History Of This You Will Have To Replace The Carb


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## chipmunkcars

deken said:


> Tecumseh Carbs are fairly simple units. The float model carbs are easy to rebuild/repair.. Before you start, one thing you will need is a repair manual. (I have free pdf's for members).
> 
> There are some common problems with carbs that should be checked before you start a rebuild. Many times the following items will correct the trouble your engine is having. You will still need a repair kit to replace certain gaskets and seals that should be replaced whenever disturbed.
> One of the more common problems is the flooding of the carb. If this is your complaint check the float first. Remove the float bowl, float pin and remove the float. Be careful that you do not loosen the float needle valve. Now shake the float and listen for gas inside. If the float sloshes, replace it with a new one. Replace the float needle valve seat and adjust the float per the factory manual. Replace the float bowl gaskets.
> If you are experiencing performance problems and suspect the carb, you will have to remove it from the engine to correct the problem. After the carb is off the engine there is one thing you need to check before going any further. Remove the float as above. Now hold the choke and throttle butterflies so that you can shake the carb without them making a sound. Shake the carb and listen for it to rattle. If you do not hear the rattle, the emolltion tube is stuck. This tube is sealed into the body of the carb during manufacturing and can not be replaced. The carb will need to be replaced. Also if the aluminum body of the carb is corroded inside, any rebuild will only be a temporary fix. Once the corrision has started it can not be stopped.
> If everything checks out up to here, a rebuild and cleaning should fix the carb. However there is one more tricky thing you will need to do. You must remove the welch plug on the side of the carb. This can be done by driving a sharpened small punch or screw driver through the plug and popping it out. Take extreme care when doing this procedure. There are two jets cast into the carb body under this welch plug. If you damage them the carb will have to be replaced. With the welch plug removed and the main jet (in the bown nut) out the three holes that need to be cleaned are exposed. Using a piece of soft tag wire clean these holes. Now cdlean the complete carb with carb cleaner.
> Re-assemble the carb. Make sure that the needle valve seat is completly down into its bore. After driving in the new welch plug, paint it with finger nail polish to seal it. Adjust the float height using a #4 twist drill as directed in the repair manual




I'm trying to repair my carb, could you please give my the PDF for a Tecumseh HSK600 engine.


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## oscaryu1

check pick up tube make sure no rust in tank clean pickup tube.. carb cleaner and GAS SOAKEd toothbrush... if taht doesnt work dip it in carb cleaner / stabil for a day or 2 then try it


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## Kernbigo

could I get a copy of the repair manual
[email protected]


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## hall_it

Need carb repair man. for lev120 :thumbsup:


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## thegrubas

I have a Snapper snow thrower with a Tecumseh engine. The Model is HSK600-1639P 0156h. I need a manual for repairing the carb. Can you email me one please? Email is [email protected]  
Thank you


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## thegrubas

I have an MTD14 horse lawn tractor. It has a Briggs & Stratton engine in it. I believe the head gasket is blown. Is it hard to rebuild the engine? I have already rebuilt the carb.


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## 30yearTech

If it just needs a new head gasket, that is not a very difficult job. Model - Type and Code number will help with answers to your questions about this engine.


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## 400ccscreamer

if it is on a horizontal engine ( it may also be on vertical engines to) is that the jet that is really low to the bottom of the float bowl which is really dumb because they will have a tendency to pick up the smallest piece of dirt in the float bowl when you clean out the carb MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN OUT THE JET especially if the engine is made in the 90s and also it is good practice on those engines to put a paper filter on the line because i have a gokart that had always gotten the jet clogged and i had put a paper filter in instead of a screen and have not had a single problem since and also always keep the airfilter on it (unless it is on a snowblower) on it because that will have the same effect


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## fritchie

*carb pdf*

Could you please send me the free pdf repair manual? Thank you



deken said:


> Tecumseh Carbs are fairly simple units. The float model carbs are easy to rebuild/repair.. Before you start, one thing you will need is a repair manual. (I have free pdf's for members).
> 
> There are some common problems with carbs that should be checked before you start a rebuild. Many times the following items will correct the trouble your engine is having. You will still need a repair kit to replace certain gaskets and seals that should be replaced whenever disturbed.
> One of the more common problems is the flooding of the carb. If this is your complaint check the float first. Remove the float bowl, float pin and remove the float. Be careful that you do not loosen the float needle valve. Now shake the float and listen for gas inside. If the float sloshes, replace it with a new one. Replace the float needle valve seat and adjust the float per the factory manual. Replace the float bowl gaskets.
> If you are experiencing performance problems and suspect the carb, you will have to remove it from the engine to correct the problem. After the carb is off the engine there is one thing you need to check before going any further. Remove the float as above. Now hold the choke and throttle butterflies so that you can shake the carb without them making a sound. Shake the carb and listen for it to rattle. If you do not hear the rattle, the emolltion tube is stuck. This tube is sealed into the body of the carb during manufacturing and can not be replaced. The carb will need to be replaced. Also if the aluminum body of the carb is corroded inside, any rebuild will only be a temporary fix. Once the corrision has started it can not be stopped.
> If everything checks out up to here, a rebuild and cleaning should fix the carb. However there is one more tricky thing you will need to do. You must remove the welch plug on the side of the carb. This can be done by driving a sharpened small punch or screw driver through the plug and popping it out. Take extreme care when doing this procedure. There are two jets cast into the carb body under this welch plug. If you damage them the carb will have to be replaced. With the welch plug removed and the main jet (in the bown nut) out the three holes that need to be cleaned are exposed. Using a piece of soft tag wire clean these holes. Now cdlean the complete carb with carb cleaner.
> Re-assemble the carb. Make sure that the needle valve seat is completly down into its bore. After driving in the new welch plug, paint it with finger nail polish to seal it. Adjust the float height using a #4 twist drill as directed in the repair manual


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## 30yearTech

fritchie said:


> Could you please send me the free pdf repair manual? Thank you


There are links in the sticky post thread of the 4-cycle section that will provide you with various service manuals for Tecumseh engines that include carburetor instruction.


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## sunny87

Could you please send me the free PDF repair manual? Thank you


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## OptsyEagle

I could sure use that pdf manual. My email is: [email protected]

Thank you.


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## 30yearTech

*Cheese -N- Rice!*

http://www.cpdonline.com/691218.pdf
Tecumseh/Peerless Motion Driveline Transmissions and Differentials

http://www.cpdonline.com/692508.pdf
2 Cycle Engines

http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
3 to 11 HP 4 cycle L Head

http://www.cpdonline.com/694782.pdf
TC Series 2 Cycle

http://www.cpdonline.com/695244a.pdf
4 Cycle Overhead Valve
Reply With Quote
*
From the STICKY POST section!*


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## Bigalfrommeffa

*Carb. Cleaning Question*

I would very much appreciate a copy of the repair manual My address is:[email protected] Thank you


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## Rentahusband

certifiedtech said:


> One more thing on tecumseh LVC and EVC (late "90`s' and newer) that no one would know unless they took "update classes". Thread sealant or "locktite" must be applied to the front left air cleaner bracket screw to avoid leakage. The hole for this screw is drilled completely through to the primer chamber. This is not mentioned in the repair manuals.


Thanks for this tip. I have had issues with this not knowing bout thread sealant.
Dean


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## ink323

can i get a copy of the tecumseh carb manual


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## brokenknee

30yearTech said:


> http://www.cpdonline.com/691218.pdf
> Tecumseh/Peerless Motion Driveline Transmissions and Differentials
> 
> http://www.cpdonline.com/692508.pdf
> 2 Cycle Engines
> 
> http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
> 3 to 11 HP 4 cycle L Head
> 
> http://www.cpdonline.com/694782.pdf
> TC Series 2 Cycle
> 
> http://www.cpdonline.com/695244a.pdf
> 4 Cycle Overhead Valve
> Reply With Quote
> *
> From the STICKY POST section!*


Already posted by 30 year, click on linkys' for your reading enjoyment!


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