# Preppeing & Painting



## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

This is probably over-posted, but I'm going to ask (again).
I've got big problems with painting and need some prepping tips, please.
I've wiped down the parts being painted with Clorox wipes (does only OK). I've wiped them down with rubbing alcohol, but that seemed to make all the parts 'bubble up'. 
Pic below shows my problems. I've read use solvent - true paint thinner or ??
Also read to sand. I've got 7000 - 15000 grit sand paper. 
I could certainly use some help.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

What kind of paint are you using?

How long after 'cleaning' are you applying the paint?


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

Createx. I also use the old Testors paints.
I usually wait 15 minutes + after the cleaning.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

I dont think the water based Createx paint is designed to be used with hard plastics, but they do have a few colors that have a solvent base.

Is the Testors paint doing the same thing?


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

In many instances, the Testors paint does the same thing.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Are you air brushing the testors paint as well?

What are you using to thin it down and how thin are you making it?

Most everyone I know only washes the parts with a mild dish soap and warm water. Have you tried just doing that instead of the alcohol and solvent. Hard plastic is still porous and in just 15 minutes it may still be evaporating from the plastic.


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

The Testors is paint brush.
I've got the Createx 4011 Reducer. I only thin the paint enough so that it doesn't clog the tip or spray terribly.

I'll give the dish soap and warm water a try in an hour or so and let dry for at least an hour. Then I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the help/suggestions.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

What is the distance you are spraying from the tip of the airbrush to the model piece?


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

usually about 9"


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Wow, that looks insane.
If you were painting a car in a car wash it would be a great effect. Very Soapy!

I agree with Milton and just wash your parts in warm water with some dish soap. And, dry them well.

Perhaps a primer would be a good idea before your top coat.
Tamiya and ModelMaster have some great primers in rattle cans. Great if you don't have an airbrush, but also useful as you don't have to clean an airbrush after painting.
Thoroughly warm your spray can in a bowl of hot water from the tap/faucet (As well as shaking it well.) as this will make it flow much better.
The primer will provide a microscopic rough surface for your top coat to 'key' into. Especially useful when using water based paint. So you should never get the puddling/soapy effect.

If you need to strip the 'soapy' paint off. Try spraying the parts with Easy Off oven cleaner. This is my go to stripper as there is always some in the kitchen and it will not affect styrene plastic. Wear gloves and wash the parts in soapy water afterwards.

Good luck


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

Results are the same.
I immediately wiped off all the paint and lightly sanded the part with 10k sand paper. I also got another part and sanded it lightly, as well. Then I sprayed both parts. The first test part was a bench seat (spare), the second was a rear spoiler. Both parts took the paint nearly perfect with the exception of the sunken (textured?) parts of the seat. Those were better, but not nearly as clean as the well sanded parts - I didn't try getting the sandpaper in there as well for this test.
It appears that cleaning didn't do much for me, but the light sanding did. I'm thinking a light sanding and/or a primer coat.

What about if the paint bubbles like in the pic - can I just sand that enough to be flat and then repaint? Is a primer coat still better?

Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it.


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

Rather than sanding the paint off, I would try a stripper. You won't accidently sand off detail if you just use stripper.

And, yes. Primer is still better.
Primer also gives a constant colour and any imperfections will show up and can be wet sanded and recoated before you do the top coat.
Alot of Primers are 'sandable' and can be wet sanded with 'wet and dry' sandpaper without clogging the paper.
All you need is a sink of water to do the work on and in.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

I was in hobby lobby today and did see the Creatix paint in the model section with the other air brush paints. The metal holder did include plastic in its uses but I still think this is more of the softer rubbery type plastics and not for the harder model kit types. I also didnt see any solvent based product under their label.

9 inches is also a bit farther away than most air brush users I know. the tend to be around 6 inches. typically i would think you would be having problems with the paint being to dry to stick being farther away but it seems like the water based paint is puddling more than not sticking to the surface.

if you do decide to move closer - you may also have to adjust your pressure and volume settings.

I wouldnt make a lot of changes at the same time. try moving closer first before making equipment adjustments and using the sprues as a test bed so you dont have to keep cleaning your parts.

I would also recommend a soak method to remove the paint but I use Super Clean instead of the oven cleaners.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

A new camouflage pattern.


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## Alien (Sep 5, 2001)

You can also use Yoghurt pottles to test your paint. Yoghurt pottles are just vacuum formed styrene plastic. You can cut them open and use the inside that has no label attached. If the painting does not work as you want, no stripping or sandng, just throw it away.


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

A thing to note with water solvent paints, whatever kind, is building up the layers in much thinner applications than with solvent based paints. Patience rules. Of course, first a good primer. Then taking time. Maybe you applied too much too fast? One can speed up the drying process by helping out with a hair dryer. Pls take care, the you don´t blow any dust on the fresh surface.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

I talked with a couple of customizers who use water based automotive paints and they said you either have to prime or use a sealer before you apply the base coats and then the top clear coats. 🤙


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

Wow, lots of good info. Thanks guys. 
I tried a few things last night and really watched what my habits are. 
Problem 1) I did start about 9" away but then moved into about 3". Way too close.
Problem 2) My lack of patience showed through - too much paint too quickly. 
Problem 3) No primer like you guys have suggested.

I'm going to really concentrate on 2 things - less is better (patience) and keeping the distance around 6".
I've already ordered primer that should be here today.

I'll keep you posted on the results.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

You need the primer first! And I see that you have ordered it as well! 🤙


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Also you may want to check out any model painting videos on youtube for spray paints.


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

Another thing: I don´t know what kind of airbrush you use. There are some pistols out there, that don´t really deserve the name "airbrush". If you use Createx, a nozzle diameter of 0.3 mm should do well with a medium air pressure. You might want to check out a bit what pressure matches best. I also don´t know, what kind of compressor you are using. Some don´t even have an air tank, therefore the nozzle pressure will vary extremely. The pressure builds up in the hose, you fire out a big cloud and then the pressure goes down and the paint will splatter. Best choice is always a piston compressor with tank. Keeps the adjusted pressure stable.
Good luck!


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## Learnector (Nov 16, 2021)

It is an oil and water thing. Plastics being oil base reject the water based paint. Sanding gives the surface some "tooth" for the water based paint to adhere to (hang on?) I would guess by breaking up the "surface tension" of the water allowing it to collect in the valleys (the scratches from sanding). The sanding will help the primer (sealer) to stick better. Basically you need it as a transition coat (underwear?) to get from oil to water. Ah, we could call it a wet suit.


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## irishtrek (Sep 17, 2005)

Yes a brush can be cleaned with water after you apply acrylic paint but is acrylic paint a water based paint??


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

irishtrek said:


> Yes a brush can be cleaned with water after you apply acrylic paint but is acrylic paint a water based paint??


Most, but not all, acrylic paints are considered to be "water-based".


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

Thanks for all the input, guys.
I got some light gray primer a couple of days ago. 
I'm working on a '69 Boss 302 car. On the back panel (tail light area) I tried lightly sanding (removing bumps) with 10K sandpaper and painting. 
On the hood, I stripped the paint, lightly sanded and primed. I think the hood came out better, although it's hard to tell from the pics. 
I've already primed the body and need to mix colors to get as close to calypso coral as I can get.


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

I was going to try to match Calypso Coral, one of the original '69 Boss 302 colors. After spraying primer on the entire car, I put a base coat of red down. I thought that I'd then use a mix of transparent yellow and orange on top of the red to get close to the coral I wanted. After spraying the front headlight area and seeing how cool that looked, I decided to try a light to dark fade. I think it turned out pretty well.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

It did turn out nice! 🤙


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## Andy Oldenburg (Feb 16, 2021)

Cool color fade! Matches very well to the fastback Mustang. Happy to see that your airbrushing has made that big step forward.


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## BigRBTrout (12 mo ago)

thanks, guys.


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