# Craftsman 1.5HP 3Gal Air Compressor



## tkofaith (Dec 11, 2009)

Hi everyone!

This is my first post. I had a friend borrow my air compressor this summer and he failed to keep the oil level up. As a result, my compressor won't get above 40 PSI and runs continually. I'm looking for advice on how to rebuild the motor and where I can get parts that will work (I'm thinking it probably just needs o-rings and seals, but I'm not sure.

Thanks,

Tim


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## billsmowers (Mar 21, 2008)

more like rings, cylinder, and piston, if damaged to bad may be cheaper to buy a new compressor

bill


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## tkofaith (Dec 11, 2009)

billsmowers said:


> more like rings, cylinder, and piston, if damaged to bad may be cheaper to buy a new compressor
> 
> bill


Thanks for the input. I was afraid that might be the case.

Blessings,

Tim


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

tkofaith said:


> Hi everyone!
> 
> This is my first post. I had a friend borrow my air compressor this summer and he failed to keep the oil level up. As a result, my compressor won't get above 40 PSI and runs continually. I'm looking for advice on how to rebuild the motor and where I can get parts that will work (I'm thinking it probably just needs o-rings and seals, but I'm not sure.
> 
> ...


You really need to determine the cause of your problem, before giving up on the compressor. Then you need to price the parts, and factor in the time involved (if that's important to you) then you can decide if it's worth it or not to repair.

You should be able to locate parts at the Sears website with your model number.


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## tkofaith (Dec 11, 2009)

30yearTech said:


> You really need to determine the cause of your problem, before giving up on the compressor. Then you need to price the parts, and factor in the time involved (if that's important to you) then you can decide if it's worth it or not to repair.
> 
> You should be able to locate parts at the Sears website with your model number.


I still plan on taking it apart for a look. I'm pretty handy with a tool (I've learned a lot by digging in mostly because I can't afford to hire people to do stuff!). I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the input and encouragement. I may post back after I have it open for some pointers.

Blessings,

Tim


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## cam81 (Dec 12, 2009)

If its a direct drive setup (very noisy) compressor it will most likley be the compresion ring that is like a stiff rubber unbrella like seal that is held on to the top of the piston with a single screaw and a large washer or the thin three finger reed that sits under the head. the edges tend to rust out around the edges and that results in loss of preasure. An easy fix and you can order the part at sears all they need to know is the model & serial numbers. Good luck


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

cam81 said:


> If its a direct drive setup (very noisy) compressor it will most likley be the compresion ring that is like a stiff rubber unbrella like seal that is held on to the top of the piston with a single screaw and a large washer or the thin three finger reed that sits under the head. the edges tend to rust out around the edges and that results in loss of preasure. An easy fix and you can order the part at sears all they need to know is the model & serial numbers. Good luck


I believe the type of compressor your talking about is an oil less design. The one he has (at least from his description) uses oil in the compressor


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## tkofaith (Dec 11, 2009)

It is noisy, but it is an oiled unit. 

Thanks for the input!

Tim


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## bec98x (Jan 5, 2007)

The noise is from the either the connection between the piston and wrist pin or the crank and the connecting rod. When the oil gets low the lubrication does not get between the connecting rod and crank. You usually get alluminum transfer on the crank and everytime the piston changes direction the sloppy fit makes a clank noise. Over time it will get louder louder.

This would not cause the low pressure problem. 
More than likely not the piston rings either.

I would first check all the air lines and make sure they are not leaking, next check the check valve on the tank, next the pressure switch bleed off valve, reed valves, cylinder & seals.

If you give the model # it might be easier to narrow down.


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## nnyparts.com (Dec 28, 2009)

I would check the regulator and o-rings first before I commence on an engine job. Just a blow by from a cracked o-ring will do exactly what your saying the issue is.


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## tkofaith (Dec 11, 2009)

Thanks for the tip. I will do that. I've been very busy between the holidays and overtime. I haven't even had time to look up the model number. My Snowblower busted an auger last week too. When it snows (rains?) it pours!

Thanks,

Tim


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## nnyparts.com (Dec 28, 2009)

Hey Tim,

Quick question...isn't there suppose to be a shear pin ahead of the augers to prevent damage to them?


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