# 1/35 scale Dora railgun question



## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

So, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered the Soar Art 1/35 Dora. It cost quite a bit, plus there will be cost of the divorce or the funeral, depending on the wife's mood when it's delivered.

I've seen several different write ups about what cement to use. I've used Testors for decades, glue (way back when) and cement. As I understand it, this won't work on the this model's hard plastic. The problem is, what do I use? One builder says to use CA and another says don't. I've also seen comments on the 'welds', Plastruct, Flex-I-File, Tenax 7R, etc. So, any of y'all (thats Southern for youse guys) who have built or are building Das Biest I would appreciate some advice.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

If the plastic used is ABS then it can be glued with Tenax, or similar welder-type cements. ALso, Tamiya makes an ABS cement. Glues that work on ABS will usually work on styrene too. "Hotter" styrene glues will work on ABS as well (like Tenax). CA glue is funny with ABS. It usually just sits there. You can use it, but on something as big as the Dora, I would use a solvent type glue.

I had wanted the Soar Art kit but was disappointed that the model id a hodge podge with the gun of the Gustav on the carriage of the Dora


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

djnick66 said:


> If the plastic used is ABS then it can be glued with Tenax, or similar welder-type cements. ALso, Tamiya makes an ABS cement. Glues that work on ABS will usually work on styrene too. "Hotter" styrene glues will work on ABS as well (like Tenax). CA glue is funny with ABS. It usually just sits there. You can use it, but on something as big as the Dora, I would use a solvent type glue.
> 
> I had wanted the Soar Art kit but was disappointed that the model id a hodge podge with the gun of the Gustav on the carriage of the Dora


Thanks. I don't know what kind of plastic, but it is 'hard' and regular Testors cement won't melt it.

I wish the metal barrel and the Nordland decals were still available.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Testors cement, especially the "liquid" in the black needle applicator, is pretty weak stuff. the liquid in a bottle is stronger. Still, Tenax, Pro Weld, Plastic Weld etc are hotter.


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

Thanks. I was wondering about that. I've never used them.


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## Owen E Oulton (Jan 6, 2012)

Use them just like Testors' liquid. The only difference in use is that the hotter cements evapourate more quickly, so placing the parts together and using capillary action is the preferred method for application.


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

Good to know. Thanks.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

That thing would use a LOT of Tenax! That's expensive stuff!


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

John P said:


> That thing would use a LOT of Tenax! That's expensive stuff!


It's only money. 
I'm planning to use Plastruct weld. It's about half the price.


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## PipePlayr (Oct 30, 2008)

You should consider using SciGrip 3. It's a water-thin solvent cement like Tenax/Ambroid/Same Stuff......only it's MUCH cheaper (a pint can goes for $12 at the link below!). It used to be marketed under the name IPS Weld-On #3. 

I've been using it for the past several years with no complaints whatsoever......just make sure you use it with PLENTY of ventilation!!

I get mine from this company...excellent folks to work with!!!

http://www.theengineerguy.com/Weld-On-3.html

I think you'll be pleased!
Vic


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

more likely SciGrip 3 WAS Weld on 3. Weld on is made by the IPS company. I imagine SciGrip just rebranded it.

Or cut to the chase and buy a pint of MEK


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

The SciGrip is cheaper, but I get Amazon gift cards from the search engine I use and Amazon doesn't have SciGrip. So, I can get the Plastruct for free. The only problem I see is getting it as I need it on this model because it takes time to get enough points to get a gift card. Both MEK and SciGrip are both alternatives that I will consider.

Thanks to both of y'all.

Isn't MEK the stuff I use for gluing PVC pipe? That stuff is really strong!


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## Owen E Oulton (Jan 6, 2012)

Go to a Plexiglas supplier, and they'll sell you a gallon bottle of Methylene Chloride. Transfer it to a glass bottle, as it will evapourate right through the polyethylene bottles they sell it in. The active ingredient in Tenax/Weld-On 3/Ambroid, etc... is Methylene Chloride. A pint of MEK will do the OP no good at all, as MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is what's in Testors' liquid cement. MEK is not used for gluing anything but Polystyrene, and will not touch ABS, which was the original problem.


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

Thanks. I'll check it out.


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

PipePlayr said:


> You should consider using SciGrip 3. It's a water-thin solvent cement like Tenax/Ambroid/Same Stuff......only it's MUCH cheaper (a pint can goes for $12 at the link below!). It used to be marketed under the name IPS Weld-On #3.
> 
> I've been using it for the past several years with no complaints whatsoever......just make sure you use it with PLENTY of ventilation!!
> 
> ...


I found the Weld-on 3. The problem was that it was listed under the sellers name. I already ordered the Plastruct. If it doesn't do the job I'll check out Weld-on 3.


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## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=343748

Check out this thread on Hobbytalk, I think it will work if you paste it in the header. If not look up oldguy's (that's me) posts on armourama and you should find a 1/35 Dora build. Its done, finished, won a few contests and now sits on a shelf and hoping someone would buy it for their collection so I'd have more display room.

Dave


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## PipePlayr (Oct 30, 2008)

kk4mds said:


> and Amazon doesn't have SciGrip.



I just found it on Amazon's site. Check out this link.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...ield-keywords=scigrip 3&sprefix=scigr,aps,153

Hope it helps! :thumbsup:

Vic


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Owen E Oulton said:


> Go to a Plexiglas supplier, and they'll sell you a gallon bottle of Methylene Chloride. Transfer it to a glass bottle, as it will evapourate right through the polyethylene bottles they sell it in. The active ingredient in Tenax/Weld-On 3/Ambroid, etc... is Methylene Chloride. A pint of MEK will do the OP no good at all, as MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is what's in Testors' liquid cement. MEK is not used for gluing anything but Polystyrene, and will not touch ABS, which was the original problem.


MEK is NOT what is in Testors glue and it works on ABS

Testors cement (as per the MDS sheet on the Testors web site) is Toluene with a thickener.

Mek Weld is a glue made (obviously) with MEK and the first material listed here is ABS 

http://www.shop4glue.com/mek-weld-p...-kit-hobby-craft-diy-industrial-50ml-55-p.asp


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

Dave621955 said:


> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=343748
> 
> Check out this thread on Hobbytalk, I think it will work if you paste it in the header. If not look up oldguy's (that's me) posts on armourama and you should find a 1/35 Dora build. Its done, finished, won a few contests and now sits on a shelf and hoping someone would buy it for their collection so I'd have more display room.
> 
> Dave


The link works, and spectacular is not a strong enough description. And it's intimidating! However, the only people who see my models are friends and the Kids' friends. So, because my main goal with model building is relaxation, I'm pretty much an out of the box builder.

About the decals, I read a review a while back praising Nordland 1/35 Dora decals. However, the seem to be unavailable, and, considering Nordland's lack of response to my inquirers, I doubt they will make a comeback. 

The delivery is today, so I'm waiting for the Man in Brown.


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## Owen E Oulton (Jan 6, 2012)

djnick66 said:


> MEK is NOT what is in Testors glue and it works on ABS
> 
> Testors cement (as per the MDS sheet on the Testors web site) is Toluene with a thickener.
> 
> ...


Testors' LIQUID is MEK. Their tube cement is Toluene.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

either way MEK does bond ABS. bonding ABS is not this huge deal that people make it out to be. ABS kits have been out for 50 years. The big old Nichimo 1/200 Yamato kit from the late 60s has an ABS hull. Pegasus uses ABS for a lot of their kits too, as did polar lights earlier kits, and some early Trumpeter motorized kits.


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## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

I started out with ambros prowled which is mostly (about 95% methylene chloride) and went to tenex which is the same thing. After using several bottles I got a jug of recycled methylene chloride (benefits of being a chemist) and used it. From some experience I'd suggest you use some brand of glue that is mostly methylene chloride, or get some straight CH2Cl2 from somewhere. I tried most everything else including straight MEK and none works as well. Another note be CAREFUL when you start removing parts from sprues, they are a harder plastic then most regular sprues and will break easy. If your kit is like mine, Soar Art used a LOT of release agent so scrub the parts down with hot soapy water before you start anything. Leave the smaller parts on the sprue when cleaning so they don't break but be careful. 

When building the cars I cut all the parts loose, cleaned up the seams, put them in marked dishes and started assembly of all cars at the same time without having to cut a piece, clean a piece, glue a piece, cut a piece, clean a piece, glue a piece. Just a suggestion.

Most of all you will have fun building this kit, it's a bit fussy here and there but for the most part goes together rather well. And it looks cool as hell when finished and displayed on a shelf dwarfing anything else you could ever build.

Please post some picts of the smile when that monster box shows up as well as keeping us posted as the build goes on -- and on -- and on. Any questions pleas ask. Dave


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

As an aside, I just got an answer from Nordland. Their decal set will not be available. That's too bad. The review I read about their set praised them highly.


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## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

I used decals from Peddinghaus-Decals of Germany. They are very thin but take your time and they work out fine.


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## Dave621955 (Aug 22, 2010)

So, did you get the Dora Yet???


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Peddinghaus makes some very good decals. Back in the day, they did a variety of white metal figures and artillery kits.


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

I got it. I'm clearing out a work area.


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

What, a 3-car garage?


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

When my house was built, I included an 18'x26' room that is all mine. As I explained to the wife, I built a house for her and a room for me.

Unfortunately, I buy models far faster than I build them. I have boxes that are 15 years old. So, now that I'm older (wiser?) I have put a moratorium of the purchasing of models. Well, of course, there may be some exceptions like the new ones from Wingnut Wings, the WWI armor and artillery from Takom, then there's that 1/32 scale Sufa that I really want,........... :lol:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Only 15 years?


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

Yeah, that's all. I had to get rid of some. Not enough room on the 25' rental truck when I moved. Fortunately, I rented another truck for the nonessentials like furniture, clothes, the wife, etc.


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## btbrush (Sep 20, 2010)

Just thought I'd throw in two cents. If the MEK doesn't work to your liking I suggest Methylene Chloride. Started using it when ERTL's model shop stopped using MEK back in the 90's. Found a janitorial supply house here in town who makes their own paint stripper. MC is the base for almost all strippers. Glues like crazy. Melts even ABS. Really nasty stuff, so lots of ventilation. A gallon goes for about $36. You do the math. It also flashes off pretty quick so I pour a small amount into another bottle.


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

Do the math?

2+2=5 for very large values for 2.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

Here's a link for the Peddinghaus decals.....

http://decals.guenstigergeht.net/pr...21_beschriftungssatz-fuer-dora-geschuetz.html


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

You can also get a set of turned metal ammunition.The maker is Robert Schatton in Germany...I have a set and they are excellent...not sure where you might get them stateside but they do mail order and offer a very friendly service...you can email them in English and ask for a price on item #3534. Here's a link to the site...

http://modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/

And a link to a pic showing the Schatton turnings alongside the kit parts....

http://www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/assets/images/3534.jpg


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## kk4mds (May 8, 2015)

I've already checked those sites. Thanks


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