# Oil



## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

I am considering using one brand/weight of oil in my lawnmowers, snowblowers and three wheel ATV'S. The one I am considering is Mobil1 0w-40. Anyone have any positive or negative comments on this?
Thanks


----------



## paulr44 (Oct 14, 2008)

I offer that the owner's manuals contain the best suggested weight for your products, at different climate averages.

You can't go wrong with synthetic oil, however the weight oil you are considering would be extreme winter use only. A multi-viscosity oil has extenders in it, that cause it to act like the second number when hot. A 0-40 is in reality a 0 weight oil -very thin, and acts like a 40 weight when the eng. is at operating temp.

Having worked closely with engine manufacturers and out of my own experience, I can tell you standard, or mineral oil provides ample lubrication and protection when it is changed routinely. The PRIMARY reason I can suggest you'd want to use a synthetic oil is that it inherently has a BETTER resistance to thermal breakdown. When a multi-vis oil has thermal breakdown, it usually just becomes sludge.

I asked Slick50 reps once to explain to me, how at a molecular level their product purportedly can adhere to a cast-iron cylinder wall (they claimed it filled in the nooks & crannys, or voids) that is already saturated with oil. In other words, I wanted to know how the teflon stuck in the crannies. They could not explain it.

So, do a little research of your own, determine what it the mean climate condition you'll be operating under, and go from there.

Paul

P.S. Oil works as it is a film. That film relies on molecular cohesion. Contaminants from combustion by-products break up that cohesion. Acids build up further advancing decline. Even in gaseous fueled engines (such as propane) while the oil looks clean it should be changed. Do the research...you'll be glad you did.

P.P.S. This just hit me. Kohler is now recommending straight 30w oil in the command engines for summer use. I've recommended the same for over 15 years. Why? Because a straight-weight oil doesn't suffer from thermal breakdown like a multi-vis oil does. When it's hot out, who cares if the oil is 30w when cold...it ain't really COLD when it's 75-80 degrees in the AM, so run the straight weight and be have better protection. They're now also recommending 20w-50 in their large twins (34HP & similar HP EFI). Again, it's the second number the engine is in need of at oper. temp.


----------



## Rentahusband (Aug 25, 2008)

I have done some reading on this and seems like people use every weight and brand, both synthetic and conventional in their small engines. I guess bottom line is if you maintain proper oil level and regular change intervals, your engine will be fine no matter what oil is used. What type of oil seems to be a personal preference. 
So if the M1 0w-40 acts like a 40w at operating temp, would'nt that be a good thing? The 0 means it will start easier in colder temps and still act like a 40w at operating temps. Is'nt 0w more of a factor in engines with an oil pump and filter. A 0w is going to flow easier throughout the engine when in colder temps. 

I USED to be a Slick 50 user years ago and the more I thought about it, I also wondered how the PTFE could stick to the cylinder walls. 

I have changed oil on a few sm engines where the oil was dirt black, thin as water and smelled bad. This type of neglect is what ruins engines!!

It seems alot of people use Rotella t6 5w-40 oil in their sm engines. 

Is it true that switching between conventional and synthetic is bad?

Thanks for your response Paul!!


----------

