# Project engine... no spark, ect. Please help



## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

I recently bought an 2HP project engine for $32. No spark...

So I was only wondering if anyone could help me remove the flywheel so I could clean the points and condensers? I never had to do this before. I have mostly forgotten my small engine stuff...

THE ENGINE:

Briggs 2HP 60102

- The Gas tank was full of orange and sloppy goop. I figured that it was an mix of an lot of rust and water. The tank inside was probably rusted beyond repair. The cap itself broke off and took the threads with it. I junked it

- The carburetor pick-up tube was covered in that goopy crap. I cleaned it out and found out that the tube was stuck. I used pliers, which meant that the pickup tubes were squeezed some, so it shrunk in some parts. The filter on the bottom looked good....

- No spark. I have not regapped it but it looks like its at the right height. The plug works, I found it on the side of the road... but it sparked perfectly... blue.

- The piston was free but it was covered in crap and dirt, I fixed that up and it was all right... It is sitting in MMO right now, it's still kinda rough in going up and down...

That's probably it. So right now I need to know how to get the flywheel off if anyone of yall could help. Thanks


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

need to take off the starter clutch, than take a BIG screwdriver and a rubber hammer, put the screwdriver behind the flywheel and put some pressure on it and hit the crankshaft with the rubber hammer and after awhile it should pop off


or goto a small engine shop and buy a flywheel puller, they are about 20 or so bucks


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## sluggermike (Apr 19, 2007)

You might just get some angle iron and make your own fly wheel puller. I used some metal I got from a discarded bed frame and it worked fine. Make sure that the ignition isn't being grounded out.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Thank yall both. I do not have any metal tools so I may not be able to make my own... the starter clutch is quite... rough and doesn't want to turn much. 

Do any of yall know which way the clutch should turn? I don't want to tighten it 

PS - I put Marvel's Mystery Oil on top of the piston yesterday, after I slpt (around 7-8 hours) it was all gone. I suppose it drained down the sides and went into the oil tank???

--------------------------------------

After getting MMO in the cylinder it started to move an bit more smootly... 

The carburetor is going to need some work too... the pickup tube I'm guessing will be full of goop.... and it's stuck too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290144234486

^ Will that do?

PS - I put an bunch of MMO down the air cleaner opening... and some under the intake valve. Yes the exhaust & intake do go up and down (thank god)...


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

starter clutch is normal righty tighty lefty loosey, just take a flat punch, put it on one of the ears and give a it good whack with a hammer, should come loose, and you shouldn't need to worry about damaging it because if it doesn't turn real well, I would be replacing it because it will be SCREEMING when you start it. They are usually around $12

and you don't need to worry about all the MMO going past the piston, because if you put any kind of liquid into the cylinder, it is eventually going to seep its way down to the bottom

and yes, that start clutch removal tool will work, they work and any briggs and stratton starter clutch


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

pyro_maniac69 said:


> starter clutch is normal righty tighty lefty loosey, just take a flat punch, put it on one of the ears and give a it good whack with a hammer, should come loose, and you shouldn't need to worry about damaging it because if it doesn't turn real well, I would be replacing it because it will be SCREEMING when you start it. They are usually around $12
> 
> and you don't need to worry about all the MMO going past the piston, because if you put any kind of liquid into the cylinder, it is eventually going to seep its way down to the bottom
> 
> and yes, that start clutch removal tool will work, they work and any briggs and stratton starter clutch



Oooooook...

So I just jam an screwdriver between the biggest flywheel blade, and whack it?


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Bump ? Anyone? 30year?


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

no, you set it between the flywheel and the block of the motor, and than give it a couple of healthy taps


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Then the flywheel will still spin wouldn't it?


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

no, you don't understand

take the screwdriver, put it behind the flywheel and put pressure on the flywheel away from the motor, then take your rubber hammer, and hit the crankshaft on the flywheel


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Erm.. ok... I ordered the clutch remove... I'm using the nylon rope trick... AFter the starter clutch comes out I just stick an screwdriver in and pry the flywheel off right?


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

no you don't pry it, you'll brake the flywheel that way, there is a certain finess to doing it, if 30year comes in this thread, he'll know what I'm talking about, and might be able to describe it better


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Thanks! You can always trust 30year 

I heard flywheel's have "torque specs?"


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

There are many different ways to remove a flywheel, but for a beginner I would have to reccommend a briggs flywheel puller. They are not expensive, they will last forever, and very easy to use without causing damage to the crankshaft and or flywheel.

Pick one up online or at your local small engine shop.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Ok Thanks 30year. 

Could you explain to me how to remove an rod, crankshaft (resand due to chips and cracks), piston, and rings out? Valves?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Well I would almost have to write a book, it might be a good idea to pickup a service manual for your engine when you go to get a flywheel puller. A service manual will cover the take down and reassembly of your engine, including the important torque specs for the rod and cylinder head.


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## Propbuster48060 (Sep 29, 2007)

An easy back yard mechanic method to remove the flywheel, Remove the nut and washer on the fly wheel, and give the shaft where it protrudes out of the flywheel a good shot of WD-40 or Aerokroil, you can get this at Auto zone. Take the nut and rethread it onto the shaft until it is just below the last thread of the nut. You DO NOT want any threads on the shaft extending above the nut. Get a brass hammer or a heavy ball-peen hammer, and you will need an assistent at this point. Grasp the flywheel on both sides from the bottom of the flywheel and pick up the engine. Give the nut a good firm tap with the hammer and it should come loose. Do not beat on it, but good solid hits will usually get it to pop loose. If this doesn't work, try 2 wonder bars ( pry bars) or 2 very large screw drivers, old tire irons etc. again placing them under the fly wheel prying up while tapping with the hammer on the nut. Ya can't beat a good wheel puller for this job but this method works most of the time


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

Propbuster48060 said:


> An easy back yard mechanic method to remove the flywheel, Remove the nut and washer on the fly wheel, and give the shaft where it protrudes out of the flywheel a good shot of WD-40 or Aerokroil, you can get this at Auto zone. Take the nut and rethread it onto the shaft until it is just below the last thread of the nut. You DO NOT want any threads on the shaft extending above the nut. Get a brass hammer or a heavy ball-peen hammer, and you will need an assistent at this point. Grasp the flywheel on both sides from the bottom of the flywheel and pick up the engine. Give the nut a good firm tap with the hammer and it should come loose. Do not beat on it, but good solid hits will usually get it to pop loose. If this doesn't work, try 2 wonder bars ( pry bars) or 2 very large screw drivers, old tire irons etc. again placing them under the fly wheel prying up while tapping with the hammer on the nut. Ya can't beat a good wheel puller for this job but this method works most of the time



This method should not be used on this engine! The shaft above the threaded portion of the crankshaft is the bearing surface for the starter clutch drive, if you hit it with a hammer of any composition (except maybe rubber) it can flare out the crankshaft and cause the starter clutch to bind.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Ok.... We'll the clutch remove shipped... when I get it I'll repond back.


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

30yearTech said:


> This method should not be used on this engine! The shaft above the threaded portion of the crankshaft is the bearing surface for the starter clutch drive, if you hit it with a hammer of any composition (except maybe rubber) it can flare out the crankshaft and cause the starter clutch to bind.


that was my suggestion, but I only do it with a rubber hammer, I've screwed up enough cranks that I hand to sand down for 2 hours too many times


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

well this engine has an bent (slightly) and chipped shaft... and chipped so it sticks up.. and way to fix it?


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

nothing gracefully


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

I'm not going toward graceful with this motor. this probably needs new rings... maybe bore and hone it over for some fun?

Recived the clutch remover. No nylon though  So... is there an alternative?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

oscaryu1 said:


> I'm not going toward graceful with this motor. this probably needs new rings... maybe bore and hone it over for some fun?
> 
> Recived the clutch remover. No nylon though  So... is there an alternative?


No nylon???? What are you talking about???


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

thats what I was thinking


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

30yearTech said:


> No nylon???? What are you talking about???


You should know, you put some rope (nylon) in there till the piston pushes again it and it pushes against the head, it just stops right there, and you take the starter clutch out?

I used like 1/2 foot of bike tire tube and got the starter clutch out. I gotta say, "It's freakin easy"!. Well the clutch is cleaned, oiled, and very silent now. Soooo now the flywheel... ? Could someone re-do the steps? I don't really understand.


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

OK, thats not a trick I have ever used, I think geo came up with that one. It sounds like a good way to hold the engine though. If you had said nylon rope I might have known what you meant.

Use a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off, it just screws into the little holes that are drilled and tapped opposite of each other on the flywheel near where the crankshaft comes through.

Glad you got the clutch off now you can finally get to the points. :thumbsup:


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

30yearTech said:


> OK, thats not a trick I have ever used, I think geo came up with that one. It sounds like a good way to hold the engine though. If you had said nylon rope I might have known what you meant.
> 
> Use a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off, it just screws into the little holes that are drilled and tapped opposite of each other on the flywheel near where the crankshaft comes through.
> 
> Glad you got the clutch off now you can finally get to the points. :thumbsup:


Thanks! Geo's idea was an good one. Bike tire works well too  Lucky me! Found an old Spark plug on the side of the road today! And the engine didn't have one! Sparked perfect and looked new too!

Mmk... I'll look up flywheel puller on ebay. Is there an alternative though?


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Can I use something else other than an flywheel puller?


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## pyro_maniac69 (Aug 12, 2007)

what I said


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

An easy back yard mechanic method to remove the flywheel, Remove the nut and washer on the fly wheel, and give the shaft where it protrudes out of the flywheel a good shot of WD-40 or Aerokroil, you can get this at Auto zone. Take the nut and rethread it onto the shaft until it is just below the last thread of the nut. You DO NOT want any threads on the shaft extending above the nut. Get a brass hammer or a heavy ball-peen hammer, and you will need an assistent at this point. Grasp the flywheel on both sides from the bottom of the flywheel and pick up the engine. Give the nut a good firm tap with the hammer and it should come loose. Do not beat on it, but good solid hits will usually get it to pop loose. If this doesn't work, try 2 wonder bars ( pry bars) or 2 very large screw drivers, old tire irons etc. again placing them under the fly wheel prying up while tapping with the hammer on the nut. Ya can't beat a good wheel puller for this job but this method works most of the time


^^ So I screw the starter clutch back in, get some WD-40 into the flywheel end, get an rubber hammer, and hit? So that the flyhweel only hits like an cm to the starter clutch, and the clutch stops it? Like that?


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## 30yearTech (Sep 14, 2006)

You need to go back and read all the posts before you do that!


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

30yearTech said:


> You need to go back and read all the posts before you do that!


? I'm not really good with hammers.


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## engine man (Mar 25, 2006)

what are you talking about. just go buy a flywheel puller like everyoine else is saying. DO NOT HIT THE CRANK WITH A HAMMER. thats the stupidest thing you could do and you will regret it if you do


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

engine man said:


> what are you talking about. just go buy a flywheel puller like everyoine else is saying. DO NOT HIT THE CRANK WITH A HAMMER. thats the stupidest thing you could do and you will regret it if you do


Thank you for saying that.

Fact: Anything that involves an hammer makes me nervous.



Could you lead me to one via ebay?


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## engine man (Mar 25, 2006)

sorry im just getting frustrated cause you dont know what we mean by taking the flywheel off with a puller. go on ebay and type in briggs puller. there should be some on there ive seen many on there for 10 dollars or so


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

I bot the heavy duty puller for Briggs twins a couple of weeks ago for less than $10 at a Briggs shop. Instructions come with them.
I've checked eBay for repair manuals before and found them to be cheaper at an authorized dealer.
my 2 cents,
thanks,


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Hmm, some people say that you can over other tools? Channel Lock Pliers?

http://www.diygokarts.com/engine/briggs-points-ignition-repair.html


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## glenjudy (Aug 26, 2006)

Using a wooden mallet to put flywheel back is one trick I never thot of ^_^


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Eh... What?


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## picknlittle (Sep 10, 2005)

I'm thinking $20 or so spent on a generic Small Eng. Repair book is in order. There are pics and captions that will be much easier to understand than someone trying to write instructions.

It sounds like this engine has been badly neglected. If the crank or rod is chipped and cracked, it may be beyond repair. Crank journals should be polished. Sanding will likely create more problems than it solves.

At any rate, once both ends of the crank are stripped of parts, you should be able to remove some bolts and split the case, then you can remove the rod cap bolts and slide rod and piston out the bore. You may have to tap the crank out of the end bearings and seals.


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Well this is [really] my first time even taking an flywheel out, then talking about the rings, rods, and pistons...

Well I've got some time. So I should basically take an mallett and slowly tap it out? Evenly? One side, other side, other side, First side, like that?

The crank is chipped (end). Not inside the block, but where the shaft was. 

The gas tank itself was rusted shut and had orange rust gloop inside... The carburetor didn't do much better. I doubt the pick up tube is would still suck good...


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## oscaryu1 (Mar 25, 2007)

Hammer? Would that work?


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