# Stripping the paint from a JLTO body???



## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Hey guys, I'm working on a JLTO body right now and I'd like to strip the paint completely off of it. Does anyone know the best way to do this?  I put the body in a ziplock bag this morning and soaked it in oven cleaner.....but that didn't even begin to cut the paint from the body.......

Can someone impart some knowledge to me? :jest:


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## Porsche911GT3 (Aug 10, 2003)

A safe and inexpensive way would be to use Pine-Sol.(not the orange stuff, but the regular kind)

It has stripped HW's and even JL's when I soak them overnight. You still might need to take a needle or something to scrape away paint in the crevices, no big deal though. :wave:


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Porsche911GT3 said:


> A safe and inexpensive way would be to use Pine-Sol.(not the orange stuff, but the regular kind)
> 
> It has stripped HW's and even JL's when I soak them overnight. You still might need to take a needle or something to scrape away paint in the crevices, no big deal though. :wave:



So plain Jane Pine Sol will safely strip a plastic JLTO body??? I just want to make sure before I lose what work I've done on the body so far :thumbsup:


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

I've used Pinsol about a dozen times with no problems. You must remove the glass and chrome or the chrome will turn black and the glass will get milky. I emerse the body in it before I go to bed, then the next night I hold it under luke warm running water and brush with a soft brush and then a tooth brush for thr harder to get at areas. If there is some stubborn paint in nooks and crannies I scrape with a tooth pick. Hope this helps.


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

micyou03 said:


> I've used Pinsol about a dozen times with no problems. You must remove the glass and chrome or the chrome will turn black and the glass will get milky. I emerse the body in it before I go to bed, then the next night I hold it under luke warm running water and brush with a soft brush and then a tooth brush for thr harder to get at areas. If there is some stubborn paint in nooks and crannies I scrape with a tooth pick. Hope this helps.



Thanks.... I've already removed the glass on this body because I'm doing some changes to the body and paint will follow....so the glass had to be removed anyways.

Now I'm off to grab the wife;s stash of Pine Sol .... :tongue:


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

Funny, I have a MM Camaro that I tried to strip the SS stripes and paint off in Easy Off and had the same results. All I got off were the painted details. Odd thing is, I've stripped other MM bodies with the EO and had no problems at all.  

Will give pine sol a try and cross fingers.  rr


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## Marty (Oct 20, 1999)

If it is one of the plated bodies you can use Windex. I have tried other brands of window cleaner, but Windex seems to work best.

Marty


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Marty said:


> If it is one of the plated bodies you can use Windex. I have tried other brands of window cleaner, but Windex seems to work best.
> 
> Marty


Nah, no plated body here....just a standard painted JLTO :thumbsup: 


I can't seem to find my wife's bottle of Pine Sol.....ARGGGGG!!!!!!!! :drunk:


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## 22tall (Jul 28, 2002)

Marty- not all plating is created equal. My farovite paint remover is Easy Lift Off. Takes the chrome right off JL parts but but not from Aurora Cigarbox cars. I read in Bob Beers book that Cigarbox and Speedline chrome cars were made with some unusual colors. Had a crummy CB Ford GT and thought I would check it out. ELO took off the tint and the stripe but not the chrome. Windex did the job. Underneath was a translucent butterscotch body.


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Ok, so I soaked this JLTO body in Pine Sol overnight.......woke up this morning to scrub and wash the body down in preparation for primer......the darn paint is STILL intact! If it makes any difference I'm working on a Mooneyes Willys JLTO body. I swear, this is some tough paint to get off!

Anyone stripped one of these bodies before???  :drunk: :freak: What other options do I have??? If it was a metal body then I know exactly what to strip the body with.....but being plastic I'm scared to melt or damage the body with anything harsh.....*sigh*


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Hey Tex. My advice would be to go back to the first thing you tried. In going over your post, you didn't say how long you let the oven cleaner do its work. I'd leave it on for a couple hours first, (but keep an eye on it) scrub it down and see what comes off, (Maybe use some really fine mesh steel wool to get it started) then do it again. Different colors are made of different stuff and maybe the yellow is just real tough. I haven't done slot bodies, but I've used easy off to get paint off of some other stuff before and sometimes had to repeat the process a few times to get it all. Be patient and I think it'll work. 

Trev


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## micyou03 (Apr 8, 2003)

On those, I sand the Tampo lines off then scuff up the surface and prime then paint. I have done cars both ways (1. stripping priming and painting 2. scuffing priming and painting) I really don't see the advantage of stripping the car first. Can someone explain?


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

micyou03 said:


> On those, I sand the Tampo lines off then scuff up the surface and prime then paint. I have done cars both ways (1. stripping priming and painting 2. scuffing priming and painting) I really don't see the advantage of stripping the car first. Can someone explain?


Detail and weight?  

In my case, habit from modeling. rr


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Hey Trev, when I soaked the body in oven cleaner I began soaking it in the morning....and left it till about 11pm or so that night......I forgot about it...LOL......but in that time frame the cleaner didn't do squat to the body.  

As for stripping or not stripping the bodies......I've done it both ways..... but the best results comes from stripping the bodies. Reason being is some of these tampos on the cars can be quite thick....and can show up under the paint. One other reason is that these JL paints can be rather thick......and if you paint over the original paint all you've done is cover up more of the details on the body.

I just figure why not strip the body down....then I can sand the body lines and do whatever correcting/straightening work I might want to do to the body before I paint. In the end doing this will yield better results. :thumbsup: 



On this particular body since it's being a pain I've decided just to scuff it...then paint.....to hell with trying to spend days stripping it since it wants to be a pain.......hahah...I wanna see some color already :tongue:


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## Shadowracer (Sep 11, 2004)

Perhaps we're overlooking the obvious...the body wasn't molded in yellow plastic was it? (sorry, it's the best I can come up with)


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Shadowracer said:


> Perhaps we're overlooking the obvious...the body wasn't molded in yellow plastic was it? (sorry, it's the best I can come up with)


Heck, I wish it were that simple....but no, it is indeed paint


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## JPRcustoms (Aug 24, 2004)

Brian I've used nail polish remover on little cotton pads with no problems yet. I was nervous the first few times, but it always worked fine for me. It sounds silly, but try shopping around the nail section of a large beauty supply store. They carry stripping brushes, tape, decals, and lots of other stuff you can use like files, clippers, and the big ones even carry airbrushes and Dremels. Next time your wife wants to go, take a ride with her, look around and think creatively. You would be suprised at what you can find there. PS:make sure its NON-ACETONE type.


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## Porsche911GT3 (Aug 10, 2003)

Hey Brian, is this body heavily tampoed? If it is, be sure to remove those tampos with nail polish(non-acetone) remover, like JPR said, then stick it back in the Pine-sol. I've noticed that Pine-Sol won't cut through the tampos. 

Then sometimes you have really stubborn paint. I recently had to soak a JL '68 Firebird for about 3 days. But then others will come off overnight. I don't know what the deal is...


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## TX Street Racer (May 8, 2004)

Hey guys, thanks for the tips.......I'll snag some of that non acetone nail polish remover the next time I'm out shopping. 

I didn't worry about stripping the rest of the paint....just scuffed,shot the white basecoat......and a really sweet lime green metallic paint.....I'm waiting for the last coat of paint to cure now....then I'll begin putting the car back together....

Porsche, if this had been a diecast JL I wouldn't even have had a problem....I haven't seen a diecast body yet that aircraft stripper won't take care of


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## TRR (Oct 31, 2004)

Hey guys Im new here been browsing.
AS to the JLTO Willys I have just gotten done with one, stripped it in Brake fluid.. Wouldnt leave it in more than four hours or so though.


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## DACSIGNS (Aug 18, 2004)

Hey guys-
Our jornalist-philosopher, Jim gets really good results using Mr. Clean. It takes that chrome crap right off and there is no ghosting or trace of anything. Dont know if he's stripped new J/Ls tho. Most the shtuff I build I just sand some since door lines and small details are gone on hacked up stock cars anyway.

Later-Circle Track DAC
Good thing I aint a journalist since I speled it bad!


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## madsapper (Jan 25, 2001)

I've stripped many of those bodies with Pine-Sol. 1-2 days, then scrub with an old toothbrush. Sometimes you need to soak them again for a day. Yeah, the slots paint is alot more durable than the pullbacks.....


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