# anyone familiar with Toro/Suzuki 2cycle



## rwmaniac (May 12, 2004)

older Toro deck and suzuki 2 cycle
throttle lever has high/ low/ choke
has a primer button
air filter clean
gas oil ratio correct

heres the problem- cant run at high as engine will race excessively -afraid i will toast the engine yet it will run between slow/choke yet smoke excessively.

any clues as i delve into the worth of taking it apart?
about 17 years old.

any help is appreciated.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

My guess is you have an air leak somewhere. When it is running (slow/choke) take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the engine. If you hit an air leak with the spray you'll know it.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I have to agree with hankster...sounds like you are sucking air and leaning the engine out.


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## rwmaniac (May 12, 2004)

*update*

changed primer bulbs-thought that was where the leak was- no success
i thought it was a suzuki engine but i see Toro GTS on the deck plate if that matters.

anyways it will start and run but still wont run at low. however I discovered a small hose attached to the carb opposite the primer line. it is open at the far end with no obvious place of attachment.

what the heck is that ? nevre seen b4 on any 2 cycle engine. should it be plugged? 

and another question-should the governor arm move freely? its not. neither at the carb or the engine. running or stopped. should it on 2 cycles with a throttle control?

these are things i came up with as i messed around yesterday and i really appreciate the replies from both of you and any others i may get.

Hey Hank-Whats up with this May weather in Mi. I still havent "summerized" my snowblower here in Detroit! LOL


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

I have no experence with that Toro motor but the 2nd line should be a return line... most likely should go back to the gas tank... see if you can see a hole in the tank it should go to.

The governor arm should move freely.

Summerize? You mean people that live in Detroit do that sort of thing? Wouldn't believe they do if you see the junk that will come in when the first snow flies


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## rwmaniac (May 12, 2004)

*well its runnin but!*

yes Hankster some of us do do that in "Detroit". my damn snowblower is runnin better than the lawnmower. thinkin about replacin the auger with a rotary/reel lawn blade! LOL i still got an old Scotts! LOL-- and i even got an electric B&D dual blade mower with a catcher that still works!!!!!!

anyways this forum is wonderful so here goes-- 

to add on to this if anyone would care to comment- the governor arm attached to the engine was fine. but the linkage/springs attach to the carb at what i call the 2nd flap-- its in back of the choke flap-- proper name i dont know but i can tell you that this "flap" was bound up so tight that even if the governor tried to adjust this flap it wasnt going to do it. wd40/penetrating oil couldnt free this flap. pliers were required to move it. so i figured i would close it 1/2 to 3/4 way so as to reduce the fuel mixture to the cylinder. no go. what the heck would cause that "flap" arm to bind up- gum? no way. and you cant remove the arm-only the flap!!!

this is really pissin me off cuz ive always used the right mixture-the cylinder/piston/rings/plug look good but the sob just wont run slow. it wants to run high like a lean out and consumes the oil/gas mix at a fast rate.

its an old mower but i landscaped years ago with lawnboys and got pretty good with 2 cycles but this is totally throwin me off. 

i aint gonna take it to a pro repair cuz i have a backup mower but sure would like to figure this one out!!!!!

thanks to any and all replys!


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## AbnMec (May 4, 2005)

It does sound like a lean out situation to me. As was suggested, try to spray either carb and choke cleaner or brake cleaner arround the engine. Paying close attention to the sound of the engine as you do. Areas to concentrate on are the carb area, cylinder gasket and crankshaft seals. If there is a problem in these areas you will notice the engine surge and/or stall. If you have the engine broke down far enough, examine the crankshaft seals. Do they seem dry-rotted or pulled away from either the crankshaft or crankcase body? While you are there grab hold of your crankshaft and give it a little shake. If you have lateral movement in relation to your crankcase you may have bad crank bearings. If you replace your crank seals and leave the bad bearings you will not be able to keep your seals from leaking. Hope this is of some help to you.


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## hankster (Jan 1, 1998)

My guess you just have some corrosion around the arm. If any moisture is allowed to set on those aluminum/pot metal carbs for an extended time it can cause them to corrode.


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## rwmaniac (May 12, 2004)

thanks i'll keep on it.


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## argy11 (Jul 13, 2005)

*Primer Bulb*

Does the primer bulb just insert a shot of fuel into the cylinder? For easier starting? My Suzuki Toro Mower has a worn out bulb...?? all ragged and shot.. is this hard to replace,, who the heck stocks them... many thanks


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

it primes the carb. pumps a little fuel into it for quick starting, but yes if its torn up it needs replacement, any small engine shop should help you, unless you've already tried?


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