# Lakeside Park Dragway. HO scale dragstrip



## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

I came up with this idea of building a HO scale dragstrip without the use of rails (well sort of).

First I needed a scrap piece of MDF to test out my idea.








OK, time to hook up some power and to test it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=UU7mvo_WQZOsX4M1YEYXhCEA&v=fR3-7ZVf3Bo&feature=player_detailpage
It works!!!!

The build,
three sections of 8'- 1/2' MDF. Slot grooves were cut with a Ryobi 18v 4" cicular saw. ( nice thin blade , but will probably use a router next time)









I used .0185 Dia. fishing line for what will be the rails. I marked each end of the MDF for the placement of the fishing line, next I tied a weight on the fishing line at each end and let it hang over to keep the line straight across the section of MDF. Next I placed small pieces of copper tape at every 12" onto the fishing line making sure that the Fishing line is still lined up next to the slot groove (it easier to just mark the length with a pencil too make sure the fishing line stays on it's mark). 


















I made a couple of grooves so that the fishing Line will be flush at each end. (I'm sure you can skip this step.)









As I layed the tape down, I carefully tapped down on the tape to make sure that the fishing line is still on it's mark on the MDF and that the copper tape is centered on the fishing line. 
Next I slowly ran my finger along the tape to keep it stuck down and to keep it from wandering for the next step. Next I carefully ran my thumbnail against each side of the fishing line and finally running my finger along the tape with more pressure to keep it down even better. (I am also working on a tool to help burnish the tape down a bit more.



























First section is done.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&list=UU7mvo_WQZOsX4M1YEYXhCEA&v=w_diO8X9Oxo

Since there are no metal rails, cars will probably have to be set up differently, and with no help from the magnets to keep them down, some weight will have to be used I guess.

I really need to get working on my 1/32 cars and to quit being sidetracked with these ideas that for some reason just can't wait.

Armando


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

Armando, I like the simplicity of your idea for those wishing to do it themselves without a lot of power tools.
what did you paint/seal the MDF with?
it looks like epoxy paint I used on 1/24 scale drag tracks I have built.
in any case, your project will certainly light the creative lightbulb for some folks who were considering this same scenario.
good job.


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

Gives me all kinds of ideas. Nice!! ... For a few years I've heard other guys have used the copper tape over the top of their sectional track even. Wonder if you could use that for a routed road course too? hmmm


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

alpink said:


> Armando, I like the simplicity of your idea for those wishing to do it themselves without a lot of power tools.
> what did you paint/seal the MDF with?
> it looks like epoxy paint I used on 1/24 scale drag tracks I have built.
> in any case, your project will certainly light the creative lightbulb for some folks who were considering this same scenario.
> good job.


I used an eggshell laytex from Dutchboy. I also painted both sides and underneath as well.




tjd241 said:


> Gives me all kinds of ideas. Nice!! ... For a few years I've heard other guys have used the copper tape over the top of their sectional track even. Wonder if you could use that for a routed road course too? hmmm


I would think it can be done. With a tape laying tool and finding a way to feed the fishing line so that it is centered at the same time would be great, ( which I'm already thinking of).
The only problem I can see is the guide pins possibly tearing the tape on deslots.


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## gonegonzo (Jan 18, 2006)

I've seen the concept of burying Rebar wire under the copper strips . This wil allow for magnet down force . Just a thought .

Gonzo


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

if the adhesive on the tape isn't strong enough, the magnets will just pull it off the track. has happened to too many steel braid tracks.


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## Ralphthe3rd (Feb 24, 2011)

WOW- this is such a neat, simple, and economical way to build a nice W-I-D-E Dragstrip in HO :thumbsup:


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## Slott V (Feb 3, 2005)

Lakeside Park, willows in the breeze. 
Lakeside Park, so many memories. 
Laughing rides, midway lights, 
Shining stars on summer nights


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Great work Tyco!!! Video looks great.
Why not use some of that magnetic paint grandcheapskate referred to?
Its a dark slate gray, looks sharp. Or route, cut for tie wire?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Great work Tyco!!! Video looks great.
> Why not use some of that magnetic paint grandcheapskate referred to?
> Its a dark slate gray, looks sharp. Or route, cut for tie wire?


The magnetic paint idea is always a possiblity. This was just an idea for those who would like to get a track going who don't want to go through the work of routing, it is also why I cut the slot groove with a circular saw as well.
With the first section of track, the slots do have some imperfections as I learned you need to make the cuts in one smooth pass with the circular saw or the blade will leave these imperfection in the slot.


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## bondoman2k (Jan 13, 2003)

Definitely an interesting idea! Who sells the tape? I know the guy here that has the 1/24 tracks makes and sells the magnetic braid (Magnatech) but that isn't the same. Where would I find the tape? 
Ron (Bondo) :dude:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

check sources for security systems. specifically window treatments. I think the tape was all the rage a few years back and you saw it on nearly every window and door on businesses. 
I picked some up off of eBay seller a year or so ago for someone making lit cars that i thought might be interested, but he said he had already tried it and it didn't suit his needs.
I'll try to find it here and let you know the parameters, especially the width, thickness, length and possibly manufacturer.
when in doubt always check McMaster.com
http://www.mcmaster.com/#copper-foil-tape/=h2w313

.


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## bondoman2k (Jan 13, 2003)

Thanks Al. I did find a post over on another HO board where a guy had a bunch of cases for sale, but that was about a year ago. But he did tell what the stuff he was selling was "Venture Brand Master Foil", solid copper, 1/4" wide, 108 feet per roll. He stated it was also used in the "stained glass" business. At that time he was selling a roll for 5.50, including shipping! I think he was practically giving it away...lol. But, McMaster's prices aren't too bad.  Thinking about doing my strip like this, instead of trying to 'piece together' plastic tracks. Would definitely look a lot better! And, I think the power would be a lot more uniform through the rails (that's why I mentioned in another post about replacing my rails as one rail, instead of connecting every track piece). 
Ron (Bondo) :dude:


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

yeah, i forgot about the stained glass connection and I certainly knew that. just forgot. and I agree that it appears to be a simple solution to a serious application.


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

I picked up the tape from Hobby Lobby. It's in the stained glass area, 3/16 which looks a little better as it's not as wide. Do a search for the 40% off coupon and they will honor it if you show the cashier the image from your phone.
 The Old Jaybird Sells the 1/4 Venture Tape, he's over at Home Racing World. Check in the routed section, I used his tape on my 1/32 routed track and was very pleased with it.


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## bondoman2k (Jan 13, 2003)

Nice to know where you got the tape. I'm in there ALL the time...lol. Got a bunch of the coupons in my wallet already, planned on hitting a few of the stores this Saturday anyway! (we have 5 or 6 Hobby Lobby stores in this city)
And "The Old Jaybird" is the guy I mentioned from the "other board". The post I was referring to was an older one, wasn't sure if he still sold the tape or not. Good to know he still does. 
Ron (Bondo) :dude:


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Tyco,
Are you using regular shoes on your cars, or braids?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

NTxSlotCars said:


> Tyco,
> Are you using regular shoes on your cars, or braids?


Just the stock shoes.


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## Boosted-Z71 (Nov 26, 2007)

That is a very cool idea on the fishing line & tape, how are you holding the 8' sections together?

Boosted


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## bondoman2k (Jan 13, 2003)

Well, as a result of this post, I went and bought the mdf and the foil tape today to start on my new strip (mdf only cost me 10 bux at Home Depot and after the 40% off at Hobby Lobby, the tape was just under 5 bux! Of course I haven't bought the paint yet for the surface once I do get it finished). Tomorrow I'm taking the boards down to my son in law's house to use his circular saw to cut the slot. I actually am going to try to use some thin metal wire in place of the fishing line under the foil tape in the hope that it will create some magnetic downforce (Thinking about maybe 'cutting' a VERY small 'groove' where the wire goes under the foil to maybe help in aligning it). I am also going to be running cars that use braids (for the most part anyway). So that will be a test to see if the braids actually wear the tape or damage it over time.  Hope this goes well. Will be the very first time I've even tried anything close to a 'routed' track. :thumbsup: At least if it don't work, I won't be out a LOT of cash! LOL! :tongue:
Ron (Bondo) :dude:


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

I'm sure Home Depot would cut the MDF in tracksize strips for you...If you luck into one of those creative guys on a slow day, he might would cut the guide pin slot for you, would be a lot easier. Be sure and slide him a few dollars...RM


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## bondoman2k (Jan 13, 2003)

Yep, already had them cut the strips for me when I was there HT.  Was easier getting them home that way too, an 8 foot long piece of wood doesn't fit in my Cavalier very well...lol!  Didn't want to trouble him with cutting the slot, there was 5 people waiting behind me to cut a lot more than I had and it was close to their closing time. 
I wasn't really sure how deep to cut the slot anyway. Gotta figure that out today before I go down the street to my son in law's. He only lives maybe 6 blocks away from me..lol. :thumbsup:
Ron (Bondo) :dude:


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## 440s-4ever (Feb 23, 2010)

I really like your track. 

Something I've always wondered about after racing on 1:1 tracks that had concrete launch pads but the bulk of the track was asphalt.....

Ever seen how a commercial application adds traction to epoxy floors? They paint then throw down silica sand. Let it dry then sweep off the loose stuff. 

Probably be too rough for the big end but might be interesting for a few feet at the starting line


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

Boosted-Z71 said:


> That is a very cool idea on the fishing line & tape, how are you holding the 8' sections together?
> 
> Boosted


Here's how I will join the sections together.
I Made sure to have some overhang from the walls so that the next section has an area to rest on. 


















To join the sections, I cut some 1/4" threaded rod to size, then added a nylok lut with a fender washer to one end, with a fender washer and a wing nut on the opposite ends. 









Next I cut a couple of pieces of square wood stock and drilled holes into it, then attached it to the side walls. Now I just slip the threaded rod onto the wood stock and snug it up with the wing nuts


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

very professional and looking good. how do you plan on jumping the power to each section?


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## bondoman2k (Jan 13, 2003)

I agree! VERY nice! :thumbsup: Looks a LOT better than the way I was gonna do mine!  I was 'sorta' along the same lines of thinking, but mine would have been more 'permanent'. Now I'm gonna go back and rethink my version! 
Ron (Bondo) :dude:


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

alpink said:


> very professional and looking good. how do you plan on jumping the power to each section?


Probably a quick connect harness, or maybe just some crimp connectors.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Any updates?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

plymouth71 said:


> Any updates?


Sorry plymouth71, but I got sidetracked this summer with other projects so my slot cars got put on the back burners.
I got as far as the staging area done before I had to put it off for a while.


















Here are a couple of videos I made but never posted. 











I hope to get it done in the near future and will post when I do.

Armando


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## Super Coupe (Feb 16, 2010)

COOL BUS and the track is coming along nicely also. :thumbsup:
>Tom<


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## alpink (Aug 22, 2010)

I like it. how long start to finish? what power? timing system?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

alpink said:


> I like it. how long start to finish? what power? timing system?


I used a stock Tyco power pack for testing. Track if I recall was 20'6" start to finish with a decent shut down and return area planned. No timing system was installed as it was never completed.


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## plymouth71 (Dec 14, 2009)

Tycoarm said:


> Sorry plymouth71, but I got sidetracked this summer with other projects so my slot cars got put on the back burners.
> I got as far as the staging area done before I had to put it off for a while.
> 
> 
> ...


I agree, looking good. Did you make the bus? anychance you could do a How to in the modeling section?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

plymouth71 said:


> I agree, looking good. Did you make the bus? anychance you could do a How to in the modeling section?


Here is the original how to thread from a few years ago.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=233065


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## travis1960 (Apr 25, 2004)

How about a little more info on the track supports. Are those PVC pipes in 5 gallon buckets? How stable is the set up? How are the pipes secured in the bucket? Concrete? Concrete would seem a bit heavy.

:dude:


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

travis1960 said:


> How about a little more info on the track supports. Are those PVC pipes in 5 gallon buckets? How stable is the set up? How are the pipes secured in the bucket? Concrete? Concrete would seem a bit heavy.
> 
> :dude:


I used 5 gallon buckets at each end with smaller buckets for the center suppports. I did use concrete but just enough to weigh the buckets down. Stability was pretty good not great, but good enough.


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## travis1960 (Apr 25, 2004)

So, it is PVC pipe? 1 1/2" - 2"?

:dude:


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

travis1960 said:


> So, it is PVC pipe? 1 1/2" - 2"?
> 
> :dude:


A 2" piece in the bucket with an 1 1/2" piece that slips into it. This allows for changing the height of the track by just using different lengths of pvc.


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## travis1960 (Apr 25, 2004)

Cool! Thanks!

:dude:


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## guinnesspeanut (Sep 25, 2009)

*Burnishing tool 4 copper tape..*

I use a nail file, those foam things with sandpaper on them, covered with a thin strip off of a t-shirt. It's just firm enough, and the worn, washed cotton heats up nice, so you are also adding heat to get the adhesive down nice and secure.. The sandpaper stops the cotton from shifting around. Only downfall are the unhappy wives/mothers/sisters/girlfriends/roommates who can't find their nail files..


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## tjd241 (Jan 25, 2004)

*A question Armando...*

Could you see using the copper tape as a viable method to build a tjet road course?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

I'm sure you could. I guess you could start by routing the slot first then with a compass in the slot, pencil out the rail on each side. I would start laying down the line on a straight section first keeping the line taut and a little dab of super glue to secure it, but be careful not let it clump (you don't want to create a bump). As you get to the curves just do the same keeping an eye that the line is on it's mark.

Keep in mind that there will be absolutely no magnetic downforce available.

I'm gonna try to modify my track taping tool to lay down the tape and the line at the same time.

Tycoarm


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## kiwidave (Jul 20, 2009)

Could you use steel wire instead of the nylon?


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## Tycoarm (Jan 7, 2006)

Tjets and regular traction cars would be fine, but I think that super magnet cars might cause the tape to pull up.


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