# Tecumsea 5hp wont run without choke



## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

I just inherited a small boat with a 5hp Tecumsea 2 stroke motor. It will start and run with the choke on. I pull the choke lever to start it, then I run it and push the lever in slowly. If I push it in all the way, it speeds up, and then shuts off. But, it will run OK if it is pushed in partially, but not all the way. I would have got a Briggs, but it was inherited, so I have to fix it. Haha


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Try a carb rebuild, since its a boat, check the carb for any pitting in the carb.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

bugman said:


> Try a carb rebuild, since its a boat, check the carb for any pitting in the carb.


Pitting?

Do you think carb cleaner could help temporarely? How would I go about rebuilding the carb in the near future?

Btw, when I first looked at it I saw that there is no air filter at all...is it suposed to be like that?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

For pitting, usually it'll keep progressing. As for the air filter.... I don't think so, but of course its used around water so it makes sense, like snowblowers. For rebuilding it, get a carb kit if the carbs in good shape, soak the carb in a bath type carb cleaner for a few hours, blow it out with some carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it. For soaking, use a metal container, old coffee can will work.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Excellent, and yea the filter thing does make sense. And by progressing do you mean getting worse? Thats what it is doing.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

This is kind of irrelevant, but I don't think a new thread is necessary... I always tip the engine up over night, and when i come back the next day and put the egine down in the water, I notice a little fuel/oil leeks out each time. I took the cover and noticed the fuel line was wet. Do you think maybe the fuel/oil is leeking because of those crappy clamps that it has on? Any thoughts?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

The pitting most likely will get worse, if it has any...., as for the fuel problem, if the fuel lines are old, I'd replace em, if no good clamps, a small cheap zip tie will work.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Yea I think it is the clamps, and creative thinking, I never thought to use a zip tie. Great idea. And by pitting, do you mean like small holes in the carb? How would I fix pitting? If I rebuild the carb, will that fix it? Also, how complex is a tiny 2-stroke carb? There can't be too many parts going on in there, I am just afraid I will mess it up during the rebuild.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Its not too complex, just tiny to deal with... pitting can't be fixed.... you'll know when you see it... tiny little potholes in the carb then otherwise should be nice and smooth. Btw, if you have a camera, this would be a great way to take pictures along the way, so you have a reference.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Good idea, I'll use a camera. Maybe I can try to get the pics up on this site. It sounds like a lot of other people here are having trouble with their carburetors, so if I had some pics on here, it would help out a lot of people rebuild theirs. So, how would I fix pitting, would I, kind of, hone it out so it is all even, like a cylinder? Whether my carb has pitting or not, I am curious as to how it is fixed.... Thanks.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Alright, I pulled off the carb, and soaked it in carb cleaner. It was covered in marine blue paint, and the carb cleaner took it all off, and it looks awesome, because the blue paint was peeling before. It looks great. I don't think there was any pitting. Its deffinately a lot cleaner now.

There were only 3 gaskets. The one that attaches the carb to the block, and the little weird one on the side of the carb, and they both look good and re-usable. The other is a rubber ring, and it's good too. So, I guess thats it? Shall I put it all back together now, and see if she runs better?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Yeah.... though if you have a can of carb cleaner, I like to spray it out after soaking it, with the little straw that comes with the can through all the holes, and compressed air, the air isn't really all that important, but is a good clog unblocker. BUT can blow the inlet needle seat out. 1.5 on the mixture screws as a baseline.... also don't use ether/starting fluid on a 2 cycle.... no lube and makes em run fast and hot, use deep creep if you have it, or 2 cycle gas mix.

btw, carb cleaner does make a good paint remover, and oil remover.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Well, I have compressed air, so I will do that when I get home (I have been on vacation this past week at our vacation house at Smith Mt. Lake). That's why I have been kinda hesitant to do these jobs, since I don't have all of my tools at this house. I am leaving now, and I will finish the job at home.

What do you mean "1.5 on the mixture screws as a baseline"? I am going to have to buy a new float Bowl gasket, because I soaked it in the cleaner too, and it got a lot bigger...lol oops. Everything else looks good, and I on;t need a whole kit, just a gasket. Thnaks for the compressed air tips, I'll use 'em when i get home.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

Its just a baseline.... just to get it going, 1.5 turns out from all the way in snug. Fine tune when its warm. That is if it has a high or low or both fuel mixture screws.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Ooooh, ok I get it. Yea it just has 1 screw. I don't know if it is a mixture or an idle screw... I can't really figure out all of the throttle linkage stuff. I think the set-up is really restricting the full power of the engine. I may have to rig something.


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## repair_guy (May 9, 2004)

I had one last summer that was acting kinda like that and the fuel line had a small pin hole in it close to the primmer bulb.
:dude:


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

Ok, I think i might replace all of the hoses then.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

*Yeeesssss!!!!!*

I got the rebuild kit in the mail on Thursday, it included a float, float bowl, and float bowl gasket. I put it all together with the new parts and put it on the engine. I mixed up some gas and oil, and fired her up! It works so good right now, I can't wait to go back to the lake where the boat is, and try it out! It is going to imrove its reliability, and performance dramatically. The boat will run faster, and smoother! I want to say thanks to everyone who posted on my thread, because if it wasn't for you, my boat would still be running rough. Thanks again.


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## 69GTOby (Mar 2, 2006)

False alarm! I hauled it up to the lake, and put it on, and it continued doing the same thing. I noticed the fuel line was getting very wet with gas after the engine was run. I cleaned it off, and then ran the motor, and saw the gas getting sprayed from somewhere. I took the head off, and saw that my new head gasket was blown. I am not sure why it was, but it needed replaced nonetheless. So, I went to Advance auto parts and got a roll of cork gasket material and some sealent. I made a nice gasket, and put the sealent only on the valve cover side, as advised by the guy at the store. I torked down all the screws, and I thought it was all fixed. Fingers crossed I jumped in and began to head out towards the end of the cove. It was seemingly running good. Throttle at about half speed, choke fully off, I heard the engine suddenly begin to rev up, and the boat accelerated. I thought, wow, I guess it is all warmed up now, i am sure going to enjoy this power gain. Then the engine stopped. I restarted it, and headed back to the dock, and it cotinued to stall out. I discovered that once it has been running for a while, the stalling becomes more excessive. Any ideas?


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