# C-57D Space cruiser - from a new girl



## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Hello all - I'm new to this forum - I've done several smaller models - Movie Monsters, and Doctor Who, mostly.

I'm very excited with starting on the C-57D space cruiser from Forbidden Planet.

Those of you familiar with this model will know that it's rather huge, and here we go with my question - 

There are massive seams between the sections of the saucer pieces. Wondering advice for good seam filler for plastic models. I really want to make the seams invisible under the paint.

Thanks!


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

Welcome!
Hey guys, there's a girl in the clubhouse!! 

Seams like that are probably a modelers greatest challenge! I've never been good at it.
There are people better then me who'll help you, but my basic suggestions for seam filler material are either a thick gap-filling superglue, or an epoxy putty like Aves Apoxy-Sculpt. They're more likely to sand smoothly than the lesser putties, like Squadron Green (which always shrinks).


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## MonsterModelMan (Dec 20, 2000)

Hi Miranda and Welcome to the BB!

I agree with John P that you will want to use a putty that you can sand and it not get all gummed up...

AVES Apoxy Sculpt would be good for this large job!

Squadron seems to shrink so I only use it for small jobs.

That is a HUGE kit!

Make sure you post pics if you get the chance and share with us how you are doing with it...

Bob aka MMM


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## MadCap Romanian (Oct 29, 2005)

Welcome to the fourms. 

First thing I would try is to sand down areas and reduce the height of the gap. If you need filler, try using Tamyia grey putty or some autovotive types. Avoid Squadron white or green putty at all costs!


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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

Ive always had great luck with the Tamiya putty - hard to find now around here.
w
Welcome to the forums and enjoy!
Steve


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Hi, and welcome!
Make sure you use good old testors glue for the large parts. Dont want them seems cracking down the road from the weight of the thing. Reinforcing the undersides of the large seems with some thick sheet styrene (and lots of testors) wouldn't hurt.


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Like I said before Tamiya Basic (Grey) putty was discontinued a year ago. There is a replacement but I have not used it. Aparently it is not as good.

On the C-57 I would consider applying a thin layer of putty well around the seams and then sanding it all smooth. This should help eliminate the scallop effect that you can get between sections, and eliminate any mold sink marks on the outer hull left over from molding.

I probably would not use much gap filling CA glue at least on the exterior areas. The reason being is that when it is fully cured (fairly quickly) it becomes much harder than the surrounding plastic. Trying to remove the CA off the exterior surface will just result in you sanding the plastic away and leaving the hard glue. This is obviously a kit that is going to take a lot of time and effort in the sanding department.

Its too bad when Round 2 reissued this clunker they didnt tool two new parts for an upper and lower hull, like the Moebius Jupiter 2. It would have made the model a whole lot easier to build.


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Miranda - Good question. Those seams and how to fix them are the reason mine is still untouched in its box :freak:


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## Jafo (Apr 22, 2005)

"Like I said before Tamiya Basic (Grey) putty was discontinued a year ago"
No it has not. It is still in production but not available in the u.s.
you can get it from hobby link japan

http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87053


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Welcome, Miranda! 
If you can't locate AVES Apoxy Sculpt, personally, I find that Squadron WHITE putty, applied to seams, and swabbed while fresh with a Q-tip soaked in nailpolish remover, does a fine job in filling. After it has dried completely, sandpaper with 3 sheets of increasingly smaller grained sandpaper, rinse with warm running water, dry it, and apply a little more putty to the areas where the putty has shrunk into while it was setting.
Any missed areas will be apparent after your primer spray paint has dried.
Avoid Squadron GREEN putty because of very serious shrinkage (and cracking months later) issues that are minimal with the WHITE putty.
:wave:


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## djnick66 (May 2, 2008)

Jafo said:


> "Like I said before Tamiya Basic (Grey) putty was discontinued a year ago"
> No it has not. It is still in production but not available in the u.s.
> you can get it from hobby link japan
> 
> http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM87053


Yes that is true but for the average person just going to a shop and picking it up, its discontinued. 

Actually Revell Germany's putty is excellent, as is Humbrol putty. The Humbrol stuff is not widely sold in the US but Revell USA is now packaging the German made glues and putties for US sales. It is as good as the old formula Tamiya stuff. 

HLJ has good service though and I do recommend them. I wouldnt buy a $2 tube of putty mail order though. Rainbow 10 has more paints and finishing supplies and they are usualy at least 10-15% cheaper than HLJ. Their web site is just not as splashy.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Get yourself a round wooden disc about 30" in diameter and some clamps. Small clamps to hold the panels together while gluing, and larger ones to hold each saucer half to the wooden disc to keep the outer edge level and from developing the dreaded 'wave'. Do the saucer top and bottom panels separately, then join them together much later after the glue is dried, the sanding and priming are all finished, and the interior is installed.

I fused the panels together with MEK (Tenax, Plastruct or Ambroid liquids would work equally well for this) and used Nitro Stan in the seams. I also reduced the outer edge thickness with a Dremel and added a Plastruct half-round to the entire circumference of the saucer edge to finish it off.

Good luck with that, and welcome to the board.


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## miniature sun (May 1, 2005)

I'm with Trek Ace on this one. Definitely use a piece of board that you can clamp to...either cut your own with a jigsaw or get a local woodshop to do it for you. I'd get a load of those cheap plastic spring clamps as you'll need a fair few.
Use a liquid cement...I'm in the UK and use Plastic Weld for everything but Tenax or Ambroid are the same stuff.
I swear by Humbrol filler as it sands easily but doesn't shrink and bonds really well to styrene. I've tried Revell filler and found it vastly inferior to Humbrol.
So, best of luck and lets see lots of pics!


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Welcome, Miranda!

There's a flaw with every filler idea that's been floated so far: putties will crack when your saucer sections are flexed, and flex the saucer sections will. After you've glued together the sections of each half (upper and lower), I would reinforce the joins from the inside. This could easily be done by gluing a strip of sheet styrene, maybe 1/4" wide and 0.02" thick, long the seam.

Instead of covering the outer seams with putty, I'd advise filling them with a bit of thin styrene rod or stretched sprue and use liquid cement to weld the plastic in place. After the plastic had been sanded flush with the saucer's surface, there would still be pits that would need to be filled with putty. But the possiblity of the putty shrinking or cracking would be almost nonexistent.

Good luck with your project and, by all means, please post some photos when you get it done!


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## The-Nightsky (May 10, 2005)

fill them first and then use about an inch wide strip of metal tape for ac ductwork and then putty the edges of the tape. works good covers seams.Welcome aboard Miranda.Have some Brownies they're special.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Great we finally get a woman on here and you guys scared her off 

Depending on the 'gaps' I have found that filling large areas with strips of styrene aka plastic is the best...glue them in there really well...let it dry one if not two days then use a good high quality filler. 

These fine pieces can be found at your local hobby shop or sometimes a well supplied craft store. They come in all types of lengths and sizes.

'Orange Bondo fine filler' is a good one :thumbsup:...it can be obtained at some Auto parts stores or Auto body shops...they have them in hand size tubes that are not that expensive at all.

Welcome and good luck! :wave:


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

The-Nightsky said:


> ...Have some Brownies they're special.


Yeah, like the goodies they served at Rasputin's "going away" party were special...:drunk:


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

I see they let Mark out on good behavior... 'again' :tongue::wave:


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Hey, Fluke, long time no see! I got out for good behavior; how'd you do it? Failure in the legal system? Bribery? Nitroglycerin?


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Hey guys!

Sorry I've been so long away! Not scared off at all, honest! 

You guys have given me some great solutions. I like The-Nightsky's idea, and I'll be tracking down and testing the Bondo and Aves. I've been seeing some in-progress shots of disc reinforcement all over the web - and on the Science Fiction forum on this site - and I'm coming up with some of my own.

But I really appreciate the cautions against what not to try. You're saving me time and money, there.

I will DEFINITELY share pictures as I go along, but it will be slow going. My winter break's almost over. (I'm a teacher - model-building keeps me sane).

Thank you all so much for the welcome and the advice!


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Speaking of clamps and such, check out Micro-Mark on the web and request a catalog. They have all sorts of neat little gadgets and things. Once you're on their list you get a new catalog every month or so.

Welcome to the boards !! :wave: ( Why didn't someone tell me there was a lady in the clubhouse, I'd have gotten dressed ???  )

The old codger, Dabbler


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## Moonman27 (Aug 26, 2008)

Welcome aboard Miranda! I will be following this thread closely to try to get a handle on this C57D seam thing. I too have not started mine yet either because of this very issue. I too am leaning toward auto bondo or Aves for this task. Do you have the new reissue of this kit,or the older one? I'de like to see what the new added figures and ID monster look like. I personally have only known 1 other female modeler,(the daughter of the owner of my LHS) and she had some mad skills! Unfortunately,they went out of business a few years ago. It's nice to know girls are interested in this hobby too. BTW,there is a "Wonder Woman" reissue coming out this year! I notice by your avatar you may be interested in that. Love to see some of your work! Post pics! :thumbsup:


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## rkoenn (Dec 18, 2007)

I am not sure what to say about Aves. I have used it minimally and do like it very much. I have had others recommend it. It does seem that I had a bit of difficulty getting it into small voids and staying there while curing. Other than that I do like it. The Bondo is very fluid and goes into the small voids nicely. I am not sure yet but there might be a bit of shrinkage initially. I do know the Bondo is very easy to sand down to a nice joint over the gap. Just some thoughts on both.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

The Bondo *'Orange'* is very much like the Squadron putty its pasty and works very well for medium fillings. Tho I do not recommend it for Dental use :freak:

Hey MarK! :wave: I hid in the laundry hamper works every time.


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

fluke said:


> ...Hey MarK! :wave: I hid in the laundry hamper works every time.


I'll bet - it would be the eagle-eyed cop who could distinguish you in a pile of dirty clothes, Flukie. Congratulations!


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

I much prefer model building to basket weaving any day! :tongue:


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Miranda said:


> My winter break's almost over. (I'm a teacher - model-building keeps me sane).


In that case I can get you prozac, valium what ever helps LOL You need all the help you can get....what grade level if its ok to ask?


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Hi guys! 

I'm a bit shocked that there aren't more female modelers. I was used to being the only one in hobby shops (and even there, salespeople often assume I'm either lost or looking for a gift). But to find there are so few on the forum is surprising. 

No idea why.

Anyway! Dabbler, no need to get dressed.  Thanks for the catalog suggestion, I'll look that up.

Moonman, I FINALLY figured out how to upload pictures, but I just have two on my computer so far.

And yes, I'm working on the recent reissue. 6 soldiers, Altaira, Comm. Adams, Robby, and the Id monster. I'll post pix soon.

Fluke, totally ok to ask. I'm a college professor - I teach English and Drama and Cinema Studies. I love my job, really, and feel quite lucky to have it.

Again, thanks so much for the warm welcome, guys!

Looking forward to some seam-filling tests!


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## ark undertaker (Jul 2, 2009)

Miranda said:


> Anyway....no need to get dressed.


Rats! Had my shoes shined and almost had my tie tied

Anyway, Welcome to the forum Miranda.:wave: I think you'll find this a great place! Looking forward to seeing your work.

A.U.


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Miranda, I am looking forward to seeing your progress with the crew and the Id monster.

I am not in no hurry to build mine, but, I though about leaving the bridge and other interiors out of the model, to look at. This model is so big, you will have to have it real low, to remove the dome to see inside, or to look in the clear dome, if unpainted. And with all of the work on the inside, you want to enjoy it. That is my view.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Hi Miranda! :wave:

College huh...hmmmm 3nd grade...or 1st year College is there a difference? LOL

Glad you love your work I know it can be very rewarding. You and all those like you, Combat veterans and Police officers should be the most honored and highest paid Citizens in our Country! :thumbsup:

So say we all!


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## The-Nightsky (May 10, 2005)

fluke said:


> Hi Miranda! :wave:
> 
> College huh...hmmmm 3nd grade...or 1st year College is there a difference? LOL
> 
> ...


So Say we All!:thumbsup:


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## The-Nightsky (May 10, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> Yeah, like the goodies they served at Rasputin's "going away" party were special...:drunk:


Like I said before Mark....Its not my fault you had a bad reaction last time.......:waveut the Dremel down Buddy...K.....Please.......


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

:thumbsup::roll:


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

The-Nightsky said:


> ...Put the Dremel down...


By George, Nights, that reminds me - we haven't had the Dremel Salute for 2010 yet! :hat:


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Mark McGovern said:


> By George, Nights, that reminds me - we haven't had the Dremel Salute for 2010 yet! :hat:


....oh no.........
Someone better organize the paramedics.....:drunk:

Chris.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

I can't wait! oh the carnage! 

Yes I too can not wait to see your work Miranda :thumbsup:


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## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

> By George, Nights, that reminds me - we haven't had the Dremel Salute for 2010 yet!:hat:


WAIT!
Let me put down some drop cloths, or tarps!

It gets messy, sometimes...


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## CaptFrank (Jan 29, 2005)

Oh, by the way...
Greetings Miranda!
Welcome to the club.
Good luck, with your build.

There is nothing I can contribute that the others haven't
already posted.

I was going to suggest an elastomeric patch because it
remains flexible after it dries, but it's mainly a home repair
product. (Drywall, cement, etc.)
Sort of a joke...


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## The-Nightsky (May 10, 2005)

By God Old Chum...You're Right!!! I trust you have a good one planned as always...Heh heh heh,,,,,,,


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

Miranda said:


> I will DEFINITELY share pictures as I go along, but it will be slow going. My winter break's almost over. (I'm a teacher - model-building keeps me sane).


Miranda- Welcome to HobbyTalk! I look forward to seeing what you do with your C-57D. I've had mine in the box since it's release, half scared of it & also not too sure just where I can display such a monster! 
My parents are teachers, too, so I know what kind of schedule you keep. Good luck with your build! I look forward to the pictures.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Miranda or anyone I have not yet seen a new C57-D open yet. Is it really white -white or is it more of a very light grey? If it is white....is it at least a good quality styrene and a DEEP solid white? 

I guess I can not get that cheap 1970's amt car model white styrene out of my nogin.

Mr. Metzner said a while back the the Moebious Viper Mk II is white styrene....but the pics look more like a super light grey to me.

Thanks in advance!


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Gentlemen, again, I can't thank you enough for making me feel so welcome. None of my friends builds models, so to be able to come to you guys for advice and support means a lot.

This Dremel Salute you speak of both intrigues and frightens me.

Ark - Shoes and a tie? I'm lucky if my students come to class wearing either! Y'all are very kind, regarding my teacher-ness.

I've posted pictures as requested - little bits of paint on the figures, just messing around for now, but they're assembled, and the ID monster is there, too.

I've also taken some shots of the model out-of-box to show the size. (the pieces are on a 5'x5' quilt, and the quilt blocks are 6"x6", so that's some level of reference. No room to spread it all out, so I've shown one saucer piece separate from the pile of the others.

Fluke, the styrene is a light grey - Model Master Light Ghost Grey is a good reference for the color of the pieces, I'd say.

You guys continue to rock. Thanks!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Fluke 
I can attest that the Viper is white


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## Dracula (Jun 5, 2005)

Mark McGovern said:


> Welcome, Miranda!
> 
> There's a flaw with every filler idea that's been floated so far: putties will crack when your saucer sections are flexed, and flex the saucer sections will. After you've glued together the sections of each half (upper and lower), I would reinforce the joins from the inside. This could easily be done by gluing a strip of sheet styrene, maybe 1/4" wide and 0.02" thick, long the seam.
> 
> ...


I would agree with you mark about using pieces of plastic to fill the seams. I have used this on some larger gaps on the stone wall on the Frankenstein model.


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

Miranda- just wanted to say I saw your Doctor Who build. Looks real nice!


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Years ago when the earth was younger and I had darker hair....oh sorry :freak:

When the original was released I suggested displaying it inside a custom built round glass coffee table,
that would be cool and keep it dust free.

I'm thinking two things here:

1. Because of all the new parts and nifty aftermarket goodies on the way
build a dio using only 1/4 of the ship in the corner of the dio 'for obvious
size and space saving reasons' 

2. Do what some have done already before just build the interior separately


Lets face it....this thing is just fwiggin huge! :tongue:


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Thanks Prince! That was my very first build.

I love the coffee-table idea...


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

You welcome Miranda 

Thanks Lou. Its no biggie...great ship, great company and I'm gonna build that sucka no mattah wut! :thumbsup:


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## roadflea (Jul 14, 2009)

HI AND WELCOME TO THE BOARD as i am new here 2 i can tell you from experience and you can take it for what it is worth. i have tried both colors of squardron WITH NO LUCK tossed them have tried testors tossed that as well have tried superglue alot more sanding for what it is worth. i would try to sand the piece flat with a sanding sponge from home depot they come in a few grits then i would fill what i could with plastic sand again then fill with a auto putty .they hardly shrink at all that is the 1 part they also have a 2 part body filler that you have to mix with a hardner the up side to the 2 part is it does not shrink and feathers to a great edge always try auto putty on some scrap first to see how they work and sand hope this helps


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Miranda, I really like your Nosferatu, but, my favorite is the TARDIS, because I have been a fan since the 80's. I am glad to see your work.:thumbsup:


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Thanks Lloyd! I'm a big fan of David Tennant as the Doctor (though his tenure is done now.) There are some nice Dalek and other Doctor Who-related models out there. 

The TARDIS model comes with light and sound upon opening the door : )


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## Auroranut (Jan 12, 2008)

Miranda said:


> This Dremel Salute you speak of both intrigues and frightens me.


...be afraid....be very afraid....


BTW, pardon my rudeness.... Welcome to Hobbytalk Miranda! I hope you enjoy it here!!

Chris.


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## Mister E (Jan 19, 2010)

*C-57D and gap filler*

I came across someone on the web who demonstrated the use of SUPERGLUE followed immediately by BAKING SODA. He smeared away the excess, warned that it caused a HOT REACTION, and it seemed to form a hard gap filler. The bond appeared to be permanent.
Has anyone tried this?
I'm thinking of trying this on the Forbidden Planet C-57D saucer.


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## Mister E (Jan 19, 2010)

Hi Fluke, Miranda, and other C-57D fans-
I haven't yet purchased the Polar Lights model, mostly because of its size.
Can you tell me whether the landing gear and the central "landing cylinder" retract cleanly for an "in flight" display? What I really want to know is: can you go back and forth between flight mode and landing mode, or do you have to glue it one way or the other?
Thanks!


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Mister E said:


> I...SUPERGLUE followed immediately by BAKING SODA...Has anyone tried this?...


As you might expect, the result is pretty grainy, E. In fact, I used to to replicate rocks and didn't try to sand it.

That said, superglue itself can be sanded smooth as long as you do it in less than an hour. Otherwise it'll cure harder than the surrounding plastic and you can end up with a real problem. It won't crack and would be a good choice for filling the seams on the C- 57D.

You'll have to decide whether to build it with the legs up or down - they don't retract. It wouldn't be impossible to scratchbuild a retraction system if you wanted.


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## Mister E (Jan 19, 2010)

Mark McGovern said:


> You'll have to decide whether to build it with the legs up or down - they don't retract. It wouldn't be impossible to scratchbuild a retraction system if you wanted.


Hmmm, maybe for flight mode, the legs and cylinder could be held up with strong magnets glued inside.

I told my wife how big the saucer is, and she said the only way we could display it would be as a table. I had to tell her that idea has been copyrighted. 

I think I'd almost certainly be constrained to displaying it in flight mode, overhead. There's nowhere to put it in landed mode. Garage, maybe?


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## Mark McGovern (Apr 25, 1999)

Mister E said:


> ...I think I'd almost certainly be constrained to displaying it in flight mode, overhead...


In that case, does not the idea of turning the model into a lamp suggest itself?


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## Mister E (Jan 19, 2010)

*saucer lamp*

LOL! I thought of that too! Hanging under the ceiling fan!
I dunno, I have never agonized like this over buying a model. I am strangely attracted to this humongous vehicle. But it's too darn big!
Maybe it's because I saw the movie as a kid, making the C-57D "real" in my mind. Same as the original Enterprise. I saw it on TV as a four year old, so it seems real in my subconscious.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

That may have been one of my post of using CA glue and backing soda.

I stand behind it 100% Its FAST and it can be sanded. I use it for a primary bond and gap fill then I use something like the Tamiya fine filler to finish.

Now in a bind and I want to work even faster after sanding down flush or to meet the curve you need...if you look closely there will be some pitting...thats when I use a fine tip pin and add more CA to where I see the pits....then quickly dust it again with baking soda and you can achieve a smooth glass finish...not for a automotive finish but for most sci-fi and armor OH YEAH! 

Mostly I use the CA / baking soda to do heavy joining of any material but its best on resin to resin and rein to styrene..I build it up in places behind bulkheads and out of sight. Its a killer method...and there is NO waiting!!....you can just keep working!

Hope this helps 

*SO SAY WE ALL!*


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

fluke said:


> That may have been one of my post of using CA glue and backing soda.


Darn, I was thinking it might have been me.  I youtubed a demo on a CC EVAPod awhile back where I smeared the excess glue away with my finger. The seam came out near flawless with no grain. A couple tiny pits, but like you say, use a pin or toothpick to fill it up, apply more soda and sand your troubles away.

I use it on inside seams for all my kits, plastic and otherwise. Get a moderate bond with CA on the seam, then run several beads along the back side and dose with the soda. Reapply.

I was thinking about doing this on the outer seams of this ship. My idea: get a basic join on any two wedges, run blue tape parallel along each side of the seam. Run CA down the middle length of the seam. Wipe excess glue onto tape. Remove tape while glue is wet, dust with soda. Reapply tape, sand seam down. Maybe?


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Thats it man! It was your thing then....either way its killer way for building 
models that may end up being shipped to WF? ...NO way am I going to build something for hours and hours only to have it arrive in pieces at the Hotel in Louisville. 

I say if its unseen GOOP the _____ out of it! make that puppy kid, cat and ghost proof.

Now...I gotta take my pills and go to sleep. Nite nite! :freak:


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## Thunder Hawk (Jun 8, 2001)

Fluke... Get a block of ICE.. You know which end to use it on. :thumbsup:

BTW, Anyone got any good C-57D pics to share.

When I sold my 57 I did not take any pics of it.

Cheers.
GHB :wave:


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## Model Man (Oct 1, 2007)

Thunder Hawk said:


> ]BTW, Anyone got any good C-57D pics to share.


I don't think there have been yet. There's video of my out of box review...
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=276081

But Miranda here is the only one building it right now. I gotta find a place to display it before I begin. Once this thing starts, there ain't no stopping it.

*Fluke:* It was only cause he used the word 'smear' the way he did that made me think of my own sloppy methodology.:wave: 

How about we share credit? Actually I will defer to the place I learned about and that is starshipmodeler's video...






But I think spruecutter has the best technique...


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Hi Guys!

I love this seam-filling solution, and will definitely give it a try. Those seams, and the ultimate size of the model are daunting, but I'm soldiering forward. School's started, and this model is a great way to unwind.

I'm loving the lamp idea, too...with the open ramps, it would be a rather awesome accent lighting piece....

I should probably run that idea by my fiance, huh? Well, he's got his comic books, and I've got this.



Anyway, I uploaded some quite early pictures - the figures, (minus the ID monster - still working on that,) and the upper deck. Starting on the lower deck today.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Nice job on the figures,Miranda


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## Miranda (Dec 24, 2009)

Thank you! Just saw a new c-57D dome shape available on the Science Fiction modeling forum - worth a look for those of us building this kit!


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Miranda, your figures and upper deck, is looking very good! I'm enjoying seeing it come together.


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## Jor-el (May 2, 2010)

Greetings all;
Well, it's been nearly 4 months since the last post on this thread. Any progress from anyone? There are a couple of C-57D builds on other sites, but I have to admit I was curious to see the results here. I hope all is well with the participants, and we hear from you soon. 

B cn u

Jor-el


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## louspal (Sep 13, 2009)

I think the Dremel Salute scared Miranda off. Who could blame her...


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## Jor-el (May 2, 2010)

louspal said:


> I think the Dremel Salute scared Miranda off. Who could blame her...


Right...I feel a little nervous myself, but mine is at the ready!:jest:

B cn u

Jor-el


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## mr hainey (Jun 13, 2009)

Hi everyone,
Does anybody know why Polar Lights changed the name of the C-57D from the original artwork "Star Cruiser" to the newer kit called the "Space Cruiser"?
Appreciate any input.


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