# change of equipment.



## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

I am thinking about the new lawn-boys (Toro recyclers) and wondering if I should get one. They have 6.5 tecumsehs which I like and looks like there's a gator blade on it. They have them at home depot. 

Also I am looking at getting a echo I start trimmer at home depot also. maruyama looks like it's not the right trimmer for me. The echo has 21.1 cc. Is that enough?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

oh jeezus christ pick one and buy it and deal with it. whatever you buy it will cut grass and break down eventually, i don't care if its a million dollar pos. it will still cut grass and break down. you can buy a 200 dollar craftsman with the warranty on it and buy a gator blade to put on it and it will cut better then what your talking about.


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## Iron head (Feb 3, 2005)

*swear*  got ya back bug.


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

were at???, but yeah for a while he was i'm gonna get a snapper, snapper, snapper, snapper, then ariens, ariens, ariens, then craftsman now this. geeze my craftsman cuts more grass then he sees in a week and on top of that with the original mulching blade leaves a lush flat smooth carpet like grass and hardly to no clogging. he gonna get that because it has a gator blade, if i wanted a gator blade i'd go buy a 20 some dollar blade and put it on a 200 some dollar craftsman with a 6.5 and come out better in the long run with a briggs on it. mine now, no problems in over two years. first start pulls and its a craftsman. leaves a neat yard and goes through it like butter when its thick and wet and high and guess what even when it was dull it went through it like butter. original blade from sears. thats the oem blade scott, so called crap by you. 21.1 cc's, 18 would do it. there is no need for expensive equipment because it will always end up breaking down. oh and if it looks like i'm attacking him i ain't. he bugs me about it, i didn't care about it at first but what he see's and it looks good to him he wants. just saying what looks good can end up running like crap.


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

as long as he doesnt get a gc series honda it should work good, i took mine out of the shed, tore it apart used tedumseh piston rings and a old rod that i dunno about and put it all back together and it started and ran
it just goes poppopopopopopopopopopopopopopop!! when its running
stupid 20w50 oil lol making the valves stick and pop
hey thats either gonna be cleaned up and sold or gonna be kept for the bike track and hill


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

bug bug bug. I not bugging you. I just asked for an opinion. I DIDN'T EMAIL YOU AND SAY TELL ME WHAT TO GET! I don't want a craftsman because I want the one with a variable speed thing that jon said was worse than personal pace which I HATE! Toro is good and that's what I am getting!


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

m'kay buy what you wish, my little 3.5 goes well now, bought a new blade, 7 buck one and well cuts just a nice as before, and i'm using full on synthetic oil so then later all of em will be running with synthetic. and its not cheap oil, 4 to 5 bucks a quart but it keeps the engine running for years more then regular oil, so i'd suggest getting synthetic if you want to keep it for years and years because synthetic oil practically keeps the engine from wearing out at all.


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

i actually dont see the point of synthetic, in an air cooled engine its pointless and a waste of money.
i reccomend rotella 15w40 for 4 stroke mowers
i havent had a problem and the bore on the craftsman and frankenmower look like new, i have used rotella in both of them sinc i got the engines and they are fine after years of use
if you have money to blow on pointless 5 dollar a quart oil, then go ahead and waste your money, a regular oil will work just as good if you dont neglect to change the oil when you should, around every 20 hours is my interval of oil usage
rotella is fine
the .88$ supertech oil at walmart is fine also, it works just as good as rotella, my only gripe with oil is the expensive synthetic and synthetic blends and quaker state and pennzoil, quakerstate and pennzoil only because i have found clay sedinments in many bottles of those oils


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

actually synthetic drops the temp down and prevents wear far better then regular oil and plus it doesn't break down under extremes like i'm used to putting mine through. go ahead and usee rotella/shell oil. i have my money and i'm gonna use it. just because i want a running engine for more years to come, doesn't matter on the bore, i have a bad ringed 11hp briggs, ok the bore looked new and i mean new running cheap crap oil. but it was worn out and over 10 thousands, and the rings were gone to hell. synthetic is better, why don't you try a quart in a little one, i did half and half and it's doing way better. leave me alone about my oil usage and i will about yours, you keep on about rotella, i use what i use and nobody shall change it unless i want to. i have seen where i change the oil in a engine that runs 10w-30 regular oil for say all its life, take it apart and the everything is worn, now synthetic used in a commercial for its life and most of the parts look like new and plus its not really a problem but with the seals that would go bad. synthetic is far superior wear resistance, gives power, stays intact under high heat like in a air cooled and it needs changing less often. go ahead and and blow your money on shell oil, while i stick with what i use and mine will go longer, plus here's a example i know, the man i know that uses a j d for commercial cutting of lawns, around 20 a week and they can be huge, some 5 acres or more. well he used synthetic for the mower's entire life and nothing engine wise went wrong, nor did it start burning oil, just that everything else wore out, trans deck and all. well before in his first on he did use regular stock base oil, like rotella and after a half day of mowing it would start burning oil, after 2 years the engine blew and he changed the oil about 2 to 3 times a month. the other lasted 4 years running synthetic.


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## bbnissan (Nov 7, 2004)

I have to agree with bugman on the oil issue...you get what you pay for. Cheap oil will run ok, but in the long run it makes more deposits and contains more sediment which causes more engine wear. The synthetic oils are more expensive, but they are refined better. Just like bugman said, they will handle extreme pressure better than regular motor oil and THEY DO make the engine run cooler and THEY DO help the engine produce more power. Not only that, but the lower temperatures reduces engine wear and oil break down so that the oil can go much longer before it needs to be changed.

Personally I would go with a synthetic blend instead of a full synthetic just because you will get the benefits of the full synthetic oil at a portion of the full synthetic price.


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

hmmmmmn. I heard that commercial weed eaters and a full crank engine and are better than the cheap ones like homelite and mtd.


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

the full cranks Is good scott, i have been kepping track of your gardenweb adventures lately, remember, i can track anyone there


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

hmm no snappy come back on the oil. huh, oh well roper might be on yahoo im, i was on the oldy a few ago


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## roperdude91 (Nov 10, 2004)

snappy tired and went to bed shortly after posting that last night


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

:lol:so no more snappy cracks huh.:lol:


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## Scott15 (Nov 11, 2004)

What the hell?


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## bugman (Aug 12, 2004)

^^ don't ask me, he had no snappy comeback to the oil discussion and said that so i went along :lol:


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