# Consolidated Flying Sub Miscellaneous threads



## Scorpitat (Oct 7, 2004)

*Flying Sub arrived today. ....It's Frakkin' HUGE!*

Well, when I arrived home today, there was the box, waiting for me to carry it in the house.

And all I can say is............Oh my Gods!!! It's Frakkin' HUGE!". I didn't think you could fit so much plastic into a box that size. I mean, you open it, and all you see is yellow, yellow, yellow. ( Warning! If bright colored plastic can make you go into fits or convulsions, please, have someone open this kit for you, from a distance! )

I stood up, did my happy dance, :woohoo: then, proceeded to delve into the box. Goodies abound. From the outer hull, to the interior pieces and panels for the crew area, it simply is wonderful. And it shipped, and arrived from Cult's place in 2 days. Ya gotta love that. So glad I pre-ordered it, and saved a few bucks too! It will sit for a litle bit longer, while I attempt to finish up my Chariot/ Space Pod Diorama. THEN, watch the paint and glue fly!! WOOHOO! I plan on lighting it as well, so I can get my ideas ready for that. ( looks like my Moebius Seaview will wait for assembly till after the Flying Sub leaves the drydock. ) Decisions, decisions! <sigh>


Thanks Moebius, for once again rocking my socks off, and for bringing to all of us a much craved after craft, from the world of Sci-Fi. You really are the model-builders' company! ( Now, get to work on designing that Gunstar, from the "Last Starfighter" I crave! ) LOL

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :wave: :woohoo:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

To paraphrase some Starship commander, "Don't mince words, Scorp, what do you REALLY think"?


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

It does seem to defy being stuffed back into its box. Some kinda chinese puzzle?


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## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

I keep hearing rumors about a big Jupiter 2. Frankly I can't see a really big one. Where would you put it? The Flying sub is just right.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Antimatter said:


> I keep hearing rumors about a big Jupiter 2. Frankly I can't see a really big one. Where would you put it? The Flying sub is just right.


 
*Oh, I would find a place to put such a model.....*


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Congrats on scoring the flying sub kit scorpitat:thumbsup:It is truly a beautiful kit. I am very happy with the scale of this baby, And so far I am having a grand time working on it Happy building!


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## john_trek (Apr 13, 2000)

Steve244 said:


> It does seem to defy being stuffed back into its box.


I'm glad I'm not the only one who couldn't get the genie back in the bottle. 


I remember the thrill of buying the ERTL USS Excelsior model kit, and then the sinking feeling when I opened the box and realized that the model was so small that they could have put two of them in the same box. 

I am so glad that Moebius kits have the opposite problem.


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## Mark Dorais (May 25, 2006)

beatlepaul said:


> *Oh, I would find a place to put such a model.....*


As most of us most definately would!!!!!!


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## MAX WEDGE (Nov 20, 2005)

Antimatter said:


> I keep hearing rumors about a big Jupiter 2. Frankly I can't see a really big one. Where would you put it? The Flying sub is just right.


 You don't worry about where you'll put it, you make room!! Rumor has it that a 18" J-2 will come out, apparently most modelers don't want a large scale J-2 because of the size, which really sucks because it would go well with the Chariot and Pod


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## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

MAX WEDGE said:


> You don't worry about where you'll put it, you make room!! Rumor has it that a 18" J-2 will come out, apparently most modelers don't want a large scale J-2 because of the size, which really sucks because it would go well with the Chariot and Pod


How big was the PL J-2?


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## MAX WEDGE (Nov 20, 2005)

Antimatter said:


> How big was the PL J-2?


 
12" @ 1/48 scale.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

You know, I've had the same problems. The kits just don't want to seem to go back in the boxes once you've had the individual components in your hands. It's like they have a mind of their own. 

Since I had a test shot, I was surprised that the actual production kit fit in the box it's in. The test shot came in huge baggies and bags! I was sure it would be in a bigger box than what actually shipped. But they got it in there... those Chinese must be pretty crafty, though, or the damn things
*<<E-X-P-A-N-D>>*​when exposed to air! 

Maybe.... just maybe .... the kits _themselves_ don't want to go back in the box -- they are DEMANDING to be built!

Now, THAT'S quality!

--Henry


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## BatToys (Feb 4, 2002)

MAX WEDGE said:


> Rumor has it that a 18" J-2 will come out, apparently most modelers don't want a large scale J-2 because of the size, which really sucks because it would go well with the Chariot and Pod


If true, they should do a survey first. I wouldn't want a tiny 18" J-2 if I could get a much larger kit.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

SHH! The powers that be are already fully aware of the desire that exists for a certain silver IA-related saucer with a front viewport, top dome and rotating lights underneath. Please drop the subject (for now) before this thread gets locked (because they are *REALLY *tired of reading about it) and get back to the topic of this chrome yellow & blue beauty. :thumbsup:


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

Remember that there are limits to the size kits can be molded without turning them into large pies (like the C57-D).


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Seaview said:


> SHH! The powers that be are already fully aware of the desire that exists for a certain silver IA-related saucer with a front viewport, top dome and rotating lights underneath. Please drop the subject (for now) before this thread gets locked (because they are *REALLY *tired of reading about it) and get back to the topic of this chrome yellow & blue beauty.


Very sound advice ... :thumbsup:

--Henry


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## GordonMitchell (Feb 12, 2009)

Just got mine today,gorgeous,thinking of building the landing gear to display it on,but thats for the future I'll have to content myself with the seaview and a couple of other models for the moment,work room is to small for everything I want to build and not enough time,Gordon,Scotland:wave:


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## MAX WEDGE (Nov 20, 2005)

Seaview said:


> SHH! The powers that be are already fully aware of the desire that exists for a certain silver IA-related saucer with a front viewport, top dome and rotating lights underneath. Please drop the subject (for now) before this thread gets locked :


 Your right, I don't want this to be another "Wish list" as well. Lets keep it on track with how nice the Flying Sub is :thumbsup:


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## lismodels224 (Mar 9, 2009)

*Moebius FLYING SUB !!*

Hi every one i am new to the site. This moebius flying sub kit is sweet . A perfect model very detailed.I posted pic of my model . I hope every one likes it.


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## rojo (Apr 26, 1999)

*Moebius Flying Sub, more kudos.*

I just purchased the flying sub and I have to say to anyone considering purchasing it, do not hesitate!

I am a Quality Assurance Manager for an injection molder and I can tell you that these kits are some of the finest molding shots I've seen (and I look at molded parts all day, every day). Form, fit and function is excellent. Given the size and structure of some of these kit parts, it is amazing to me that there is no appreciable flash or warping. 

I plan on doing a full lighting of the interior and have already started the build.

Thanks to the fine folks at Moebius for making such a wonderful kit!


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Welcome lismodels!

I can't disagree ... The Flying Sub is a fantastic kit. The guys at Moebius have done a GREAT job.


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## Geoff Boaz (Jan 1, 1970)

lismodels224 said:


> Hi every one i am new to the site. This moebius flying sub kit is sweet . A perfect model very detailed.I posted pic of my model . I hope every one likes it.


Welcome! Hope you enjoy the forum, there's a bunch of great (and talented) guys here!

And, just to get things rolling... where are the pics you posted?


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

Since the Moebius Forum seems to have been over run with Flying Sub threads, I'm trying to consolidate several of them here.
These are the miscellaneous Threads announcing that various members have the kit etc.

Just trying to do some housekeeping...

Dave


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## Thor1956 (Aug 8, 2008)

Oh gee Dave ... now you're pulling out the broom and dust pan ... :wave:

On a serious note ... I'd like to say that I'm THRILLED AND HAPPIER THAN PEACH PUNCH about the Flying Sub ...

Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! ... :woohoo:


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## megabot11 (Aug 3, 2008)

For those who were thinking what to do with their second Flying Sub kit.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

:hat: CUTE! I LIKE IT!!!! Not the color scheme I'd personally pick for an Aquafoil (because it looks "sunburned nekkid"), but seeing as we never got to see one (except AS the Flying Sub), artistic license can and should reign free! :thumbsup:


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## megabot11 (Aug 3, 2008)

Seaview said:


> :hat: CUTE! I LIKE IT!!!! Not the color scheme I'd personally pick for an Aquafoil (because it looks "sunburned nekkid"), but seeing as we never got to see one (except AS the Flying Sub), artistic license can and should reign free! :thumbsup:


Thanks Seaview. I think I wanted it to be a bit darker on the red. The color scheme was inspired by the Full scale exterior of the mock-up set. IT appears
that The Color of the Aquafoil may have originally been intended to be red.with a yellow front.So I took some liberty ( and imagination ) to come up with the (not intended ) fire red sub LoL! 

http://www.uncleodiescollectibles.com/img_lib/Flying Sub 13 3-9-5.jpg

http://www.uncleodiescollectibles.com/img_lib/City Beneath the Sea 02 3-18-5.jpg

It may have been that later on the studio decided to scrap that idea and go with stock footage instead.

************* showed me the original 36" Master pattern a few years back that he was restoring, and the paint scheme on that was pretty interesting.


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

I'm thinking it was supposed to be white with red or orange trim--that would match the look of the aquadozers and some of the other transport subs seen in the movie...


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## megabot11 (Aug 3, 2008)

jbond said:


> I'm thinking it was supposed to be white with red or orange trim--that would match the look of the aquadozers and some of the other transport subs seen in the movie...


You may be right, In that case I would probly do both. ( damn that means I'll have to buy three Flying sub kits. )


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

megabot11 said:


> You may be right, In that case I would probly do both. ( damn that means I'll have to buy three Flying sub kits. )


I think it's perfectly logical to assume that there's any number of paint schemes possible with the Aquafoil, as we can assume it's something in active service and no longer just Nelson's private craft, yes?

So what I would speculate, the White body red trim are Pacifica owned craft, probably seen as 'executive' transports. Red/Yellow might be emergency services craft. Yellow/blue might be property of the U.S. Navy transport arm, and there may be an armed version...

So, any of the aftermarket guys up for 'conjectural' decals? Pacifica signage, 'callsign' numbers for over the cockpit ala the Aquadozer ("Pacifica Two Four Wiskey, cleared to free transit, switch beacons to pulse for traffic warning, be aware of heavy traffic at Cargo Three"...)

Um...OK..I do think too much about this, sorry...


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## megabot11 (Aug 3, 2008)

I'm starting to like this color.


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## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

megabot11 said:


> I'm starting to like this color.


Great color scheme - if AMC had manufactured Aquafoils.


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## megabot11 (Aug 3, 2008)

LoL! I think thats what They had in mind.

http://www.uncleodiescollectibles.com/img_lib/Flying Sub 13 3-9-5.jpg


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## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

I'm too lazy to go through the various FS threads and I know the Aquadozer has been discussed. Sorry if this link has already been posted.

Aquadozer


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

megabot11 said:


> I'm starting to like this color.


I have to tell you, that's a beautiful thing.

I can SEE that in my mind, the white plastic of the kit, the small decal sheet for the fins and the stand..

yeah.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I wonder what The interoir is going to look like(the box mentions one)

Sorry I was referring to the re-release of the 'lil FS-1

Steve


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I just got my kit- now I am pondering wheather to build this with general lighting and a good paint job now and save up fo rall the accessories, add ons and ligting bling that will come out over the next month or so.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

steve123 said:


> I wonder what The interoir is going to look like(the box mentions one)
> 
> Sorry I was referring to the re-release of the 'lil FS-1
> 
> Steve


Hi Steve --

It's full color, and very detailed. You'll like it. Takes about 10 seconds to install, too!

--Henry


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## enterprise_fan (May 23, 2004)

To me it looks like a sea going medical transport.



megabot11 said:


> I'm starting to like this color.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Hi, I am getting ready to paint the control buttons on the chairs of the flying sub kit,But can't make out the colors on the instruction sheet. They look like white and green on one side and white and red on the other side.also is it a good idea to glue the little pins that attach the doors to the rear wall and bulkhead? Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## jbond (Aug 29, 2002)

I wouldn't glue any of the pins, no--I've not glued these hinge pins on the Space Pod or the Flying Sub. The fit is quite snug, they're not going anywhere and if you introduce glue in there you're risking screwing up the mobility of the hinge.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I agree, I think they'll be fine, and I'm trusting mine not to break, I've stashed the 9V batt and the micro switch in the "tubeway"

Steve


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Thanks! looks like no glue on the hinge pins.The buttons at the end of the arm rests i think will be as they look to me in the color shot of the chair in the instructions. right side, 3 white 1 green, left side 3 white 1 red.:thumbsup:


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## SJF (Dec 3, 1999)

megabot11 said:


> I'm starting to like this color.


That's a nice color for it. Good to see there's another option to build it as something other than the standard Flying Sub. 

Sean


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## falcon49xxxx (Aug 4, 2008)

I used small nails cut to fit...........


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## fortress (Apr 1, 2006)

COOL megabot11 I like it!!!!!!
I am in the process of making a 
version of the Aquafoil. But 
mine will be white and yellow
with the hull numeber red-27
on one of the wings. Pacifica
on the other.

Thanks Mega! thanks Moebius

fortress


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

My project is going to be a vaiant between the two incarnations. I am making a second reactor wall like the Aquafoil, but it will have the traditional yellow with black instead of blue and hull lettering. I made my firsr FS in the sixites with a balck & white TV for reference and I alwys liked that against the yellow. I will also make the lower docking collar black for symmetry.
When I first saw the CBtS Aquafoil I loved the idea of having a reactor on both sides- it made more engineering sense to me. Right now I am making the duplicate.

I figure they destroyed three on VttBotS so they had a production facility, the Aquafoil was a logical production model of the original and I figured that almost everybody will be painstakingly duplicating the Seaview model, why not have some fun with mine?

.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Why not? Personally, I'm waiting for the Moebius "mini" Flying Subs to come out this spring to do different CBtS variations, but am keeping the big one as it's classic "Seaview-version". :thumbsup:


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## Media Robinson (Apr 23, 2009)

What? I didn't know they were doing mini subs too? are they going to be similar to the aurora ones in size? or...?


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

It will be the same one that came with the huge Moebius Seaview last summer. There is also a Robot coming out at the same time, which is the same one that came with the Moebius LIS Chariot. Affordably priced, too!


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## Media Robinson (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks Seaview. The 350 Seaview was a little spendy for me. But a small one and a small flying sub I can handle!


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

"350 Seaview"??? Where did you find it for $350????


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I think he meant to say 1/350 Seaview.

.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

"OH! Nevermind". - Roseanne Rosannadanna


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

"That's the trouble with numbers- there too many of them man..."
-Beavis & Butthead


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Here's a shot of the WIP 'lil FS (Still working on how to simulate the interior and light blocking)









Steve


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Steve, I don't know if this will give you any ideas for your FS. These are enlarged screen grabs.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks lloyd! I've even tried "shrinky dinks" the wife loves'em...you can do some cool minature work with them...

I think the shadow frame effect will look cool.
Steve


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## mrmurph (Nov 21, 2007)

Beautiful work, Steve.


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## MightyMax (Jan 21, 2000)

I wasn't gonna get the huge Seaview. Price was a factor as well as size. besides I have a couple unbuilt Aurora/PL repops. I saw one at a club meeting and oohed and ahhhed but still not for me. I then got the Flying Sub and it sparked the OCD. When I saw them on sale for 70.00 I had to get one! I hope to have it in my hot little hands on Monday.

Where am I gonna put it after it gets built?

I gotta get me a couple of those LiS robots when they hit!

Max Bryant


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

I did the same damn thing. $70 bucks for a HUGE kit like that -- who can say no? When I got it, all I did was drool over it for weeks... it is a sweet kit indeed!

Is there a thread here on the Aquafoil? I need some reference pics!

--H




MightyMax said:


> I wasn't gonna get the huge Seaview. Price was a factor as well as size. besides I have a couple unbuilt Aurora/PL repops. I saw one at a club meeting and oohed and ahhhed but still not for me. I then got the Flying Sub and it sparked the OCD. When I saw them on sale for 70.00 I had to get one! I hope to have it in my hot little hands on Monday.
> 
> Where am I gonna put it after it gets built?
> 
> ...


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Thanks Murph! Max, just get one! Mine moves all over the darn house..as you can see, right now it's on the slotcar track.
Henry there are a few Aquafoil pics a page or two back in this thread.

Steve


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

MightyMax said:


> I wasn't gonna get the huge Seaview. Price was a factor as well as size. besides I have a couple unbuilt Aurora/PL repops. I saw one at a club meeting and oohed and ahhhed but still not for me. I then got the Flying Sub and it sparked the OCD. When I saw them on sale for 70.00 I had to get one! I hope to have it in my hot little hands on Monday.


Congrats Max, That is a good deal on this must have kit.



MightyMax said:


> Where am I gonna put it after it gets built?
> 
> Max Bryant


I never worry about that until after I build them :thumbsup:


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

*gloss coat*

Hi, Any one know of a good rattle can gloss coat that is compatible with painters touch marigold? I want to add a protective gloss finish to the flying sub, But don't want to spray on something that will cause the paint to wrinkle up on me.For now i'll check the stores to see if they carry painters touch clear gloss.Should be ok?The paint i used on the stripes is testors blue angel blue enamal, The painters touch can doesn't say wether it is, But i guess it is enamal also. A few others here used this paint as well, Any recomendations appreciated as always.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

A lot of people use Future as a top coat sealer- it seems compatible with most paints and has a great gloss shine. I have never heard of Painters Touch- what chemistry is it based on?


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Richard Baker said:


> A lot of people use Future as a top coat sealer- it seems compatible with most paints and has a great gloss shine. I have never heard of Painters Touch- what chemistry is it based on?


It is a brand of spray paint by Rustoleum paints.i beleive falcon49, And some others here used the same thing.It doesn't say it on the can, But it probably is enamal based, So wouldn't an enamal based clear coat be a safe bet?I just want to be on the safe side.Thanks


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I generally try to mix coat chemistry- Acrylic over enamal (which I use primarily) Enamal over enal sometimes attacks the lower surface. Future is acrylic based- there are rattlecans with clear gloss acrylic out there too. Be sure to allow the enamal to dry (several days) as the acrylic will dry quickly to a hard shell and the solvent based paint will not be able to out-gas. Several days should be OK.
One advantage is that after the acrylic coat you can go back with enamal and weather some areas if you want and the there won't be any reactions.
A good forum which has just about every question answered -
http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewforum.php?f=16


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

spocks beard said:


> It is a brand of spray paint by Rustoleum paints.i beleive falcon49, And some others here used the same thing.It doesn't say it on the can, But it probably is enamal based, So wouldn't an enamal based clear coat be a safe bet?I just want to be on the safe side.Thanks


I use "Painter Touch" on all my builds, it dries fast and is very tough.
I've used their "Brillant Blue" and "Sun Yellow" on my FS. I also got some Rustoleum "Crystal Clear Enamel", I haven't used it yet, I will do a test 
coat on some scrap plastic first......:wave:


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

teslabe said:


> I use "Painter Touch" on all my builds, it dries fast and is very tough.
> I've used their "Brillant Blue" and "Sun Yellow" on my FS. I also got some Rustoleum "Crystal Clear Enamel", I haven't used it yet, I will do a test
> coat on some scrap plastic first......:wave:


I picked up the same thing this evening, Painters touch crystal clear gloss.I,m hoping it is compatable with the painters touch marigold finish though. I will try it out on some scrap plastic first to make sure.If it starts wrinkling up, The search is still on:freak:Thanks


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

*"Crystal Clear Enamel"*

Let me know how Rustoleum "Crystal Clear Enamel" works with the Painters Touch Marigold.


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

richlen2 said:


> Let me know how Rustoleum "Crystal Clear Enamel" works with the Painters Touch Marigold.


I looked in my extra parts box for some plastic to experiment on, And found some old pieces of the monogram flying sub.A couple of the wing sections. I used the same primer,& paint combo's i used on the Moebius FS, & after a day of drying shot some of the crystal clear onto the finish resulting in a nice smooth clear finish. No wrinkles, So in my opinion,As the monogram & Moebius plastics are both styrene And you use all painters touch paints for a finish, There will be no reaction using the crystal clear. just a word of caution, I also used painters touch primer along with the marigold top coat.I have no idea if it will work as good with a different brand of primer.:dude:


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I used Krylon Satin Clear and it works fine.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

spocks beard said:


> I looked in my extra parts box for some plastic to experiment on, And found some old pieces of the monogram flying sub.A couple of the wing sections. I used the same primer,& paint combo's i used on the Moebius FS, & after a day of drying shot some of the crystal clear onto the finish resulting in a nice smooth clear finish. No wrinkles, So in my opinion,As the monogram & Moebius plastics are both styrene And you use all painters touch paints for a finish, There will be no reaction using the crystal clear. just a word of caution, I also used painters touch primer along with the marigold top coat.I have no idea if it will work as good with a different brand of primer.:dude:


For me, I find that it's best to stay with one brand and type per build....:thumbsup: If they don't make or you can't get what you're looking
for where you live, then test before you spray it on your kit.......:wave:


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I know I've been yakking lots about the tamiya..but I'm re-doing the 'lill FS-1 and during the wet sand (1200 grit), I almost didn't lose any of the yellow to break through..the blue came right off and the tamiya is still hanging in there. 
Enjoy the giant rattlecan hardware stuff all you want, but I didn't need a clear coat.very hard glossy finish...If I do want to clear it, tamiya makes an excellent clear.
And like the guys are saying, mix paint brands at your own risk, it may not act up this week but just wait a few months. differential drying rates can make your finish look like a snake skin...months or even years later...
Steve


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## gojira61 (May 21, 2008)

steve123 said:


> I know I've been yakking lots about the tamiya..but I'm re-doing the 'lill FS-1 and during the wet sand (1200 grit), I almost didn't lose any of the yellow to break through..the blue came right off and the tamiya is still hanging in there.
> Enjoy the giant rattlecan hardware stuff all you want, but I didn't need a clear coat.very hard glossy finish...If I do want to clear it, tamiya makes an excellent clear.
> And like the guys are saying, mix paint brands at your own risk, it may not act up this week but just wait a few months. differential drying rates can make your finish look like a snake skin...months or even years later...
> Steve


I swear by Tamiya, I used it a lot when I worked in the toy industry for prototypes which had to take a beating being handled by sales. I couldn’t agree with you more on the finish and durability.

Jim


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

steve123 said:


> I know I've been yakking lots about the tamiya..but I'm re-doing the 'lill FS-1 and during the wet sand (1200 grit), I almost didn't lose any of the yellow to break through..the blue came right off and the tamiya is still hanging in there.
> Enjoy the giant rattlecan hardware stuff all you want, but I didn't need a clear coat.very hard glossy finish...If I do want to clear it, tamiya makes an excellent clear.
> And like the guys are saying, mix paint brands at your own risk, it may not act up this week but just wait a few months. differential drying rates can make your finish look like a snake skin...months or even years later...
> Steve


Every time I _don't_ use Tamiya, I regret it, in some form or another. I think I've finally learned my lesson!

--Henry


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

steve123 said:


> I know I've been yakking lots about the tamiya..but I'm re-doing the 'lill FS-1 and during the wet sand (1200 grit), I almost didn't lose any of the yellow to break through..the blue came right off and the tamiya is still hanging in there.
> Enjoy the giant rattlecan hardware stuff all you want, but I didn't need a clear coat.very hard glossy finish...If I do want to clear it, tamiya makes an excellent clear.
> And like the guys are saying, mix paint brands at your own risk, it may not act up this week but just wait a few months. differential drying rates can make your finish look like a snake skin...months or even years later...
> Steve


I agree about tamiya being great paint,But where i am located there no where to get Tamiya paint.The closest hobby shop is about an hour drive. They had a couple cans of chrome yellow, But the cans were small.And if i needed extra, they would have to reorder it.So... i had to settle for my second choice. Painters choice products-Featuring Marigold!:tongue:I used there brand of primer, paint and clear coat,So i'm hoping my flying sub won't do the rattlesnake shake a year from now


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

spocks beard said:


> I agree about tamiya being great paint,But where i am located there no where to get Tamiya paint.The closest hobby shop is about an hour drive. They had a couple cans of chrome yellow, But the cans were small.And if i needed extra, they would have to reorder it.So... i had to settle for my second choice. Painters choice products-Featuring Marigold!:tongue:I used there brand of primer, paint and clear coat,So i'm hoping my flying sub won't do the rattlesnake shake a year from now


Hi Spock!

I have the same problem. I live in a rural area, and have a difficult if not impossible time purchasing supplies and have had to go with mostly online shopping. However, you can purchase direct from Tamiya at www.tamiyausa.com and they have very good prices and fair shipping / handling costs. Plus, they are VERY quick to ship! I placed an order on a sunday afternoon and had it in my hands on Wednesday! And that was just for a few bottles of paint!

--Henry


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I used the same small can to paint the 'lil sub in december..and the big sub in march..I didn't think it would last that long either..lol
I still had enough to re-shoot the 'lil sub today. I heat up my cans for a while in warm/hot water..maybe that lets me get everything I "can" arrhh arhh,.. out of the can...

Steve


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I love Tamiya, I just wish you could get large cans (12oz), the 3oz cans are just crazy.... I've been using Rustoleum's Enamel Large "rattlecan" paints for
years and have never had a day of regret..... If you prep the build and let it dry for at least 7days, it's just as good, if not better then Tamiya for the price. At about $14.00 for 12oz of Tamiya, (3 cans @ $4.65 ea.) versus $3.95 for Painter's Touch, it's a no brainer. I have a PL J2 I built in 1998, I think, and it's been banged around alot when I moved and then fell off a shelf (3ft), not a mark on it......:thumbsup: My Seaview got knocked to the floor after an earthquake and again, not a scratch. We all have the brands we like and for me, I only use Tamiya when I can't find the color from Restoleum, but that's just me........

P.S. It's all in the prepwork.......:wave:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

*In need of extra parts.......*

I'm in need of 12 Tunnel Lights (#52) for my two FS builds. If anyone is not going to use the three that come with their kits, please let me know, I'd like to get them from you, in trade. Please send me a PM if you are willing to 
trade.......:wave:


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I told myself that if I was dropping over a hundred bucks for the Seaview I wasn't going to take any chances with the paint..(I really _hate_ painting yellow) _I should preface every yellow paint post with that_...lol 
I read an on line build on starship modeler about the seaview, and the poor guy hand painted the 'lilFS-1..! 

Any way..I have _never_ had a good experience with yellow paint...ever...'till Tamiya...it goes on as easy as painting flat black...

BTW the can is almost empy now...I figured it would take a whole can for the big Sub,..but it covers so quickly and glosses out so easily,..I was ok..(Your results may vary, paint was applied in controlled conditions by a skilled cook, usually while drinking vodka)..lol

Steve


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

teslabe said:


> I'm in need of 12 Tunnel Lights (#52) for my two FS builds. If anyone is not going to use the three that come with their kits, please let me know, I'd like to get them from you, in trade. Please send me a PM if you are willing to
> trade.......:wave:


PM sent


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Richard Baker said:


> PM sent


Thank you very much my friend......:wave:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Thank you very much Steve123....:wave:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I finally had some time tonight to work on my replacement control panels. I cut out the original panel leaving the raised edge, then I filed/sanded the clear casting I had made until it fit into the original hole.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030068.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030070.jpg
Now I just need to do this on the port side and rear bulkhead panel.


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## gojira61 (May 21, 2008)

Looks great!


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Paint*

I painted my FS this last week with the Rustoleum Painters Touch Marigold and clear gloss and wow this thing pops! Three light coats and one heavier wet coat and the protective gloss. I used Tamiya Mica Blue but my only problem with that is as everyone points out, 3 ounces doesnt cut it! I was going to use Testors Blue Angel Blue but, though accurate, it didnt seem to stand out. Now it's time to light the interior.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Might want to look at my blog.

http://falcondesigns.blogspot.com/


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

Yes FalconDesign...that's exactly where I got the idea!!! and the finish is gorgeous...it really pops! We've chatted once or twice on your blog.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Yes,now I know who you are.stay well,alex


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Richard, the clear part look great! I am glad you got under control.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Lloyd Collins said:


> Richard, the clear part look great! I am glad you got under control.


Thanks- The sanding/filing of the two pieces to a lot of time- I didn't want to remove too much. The next wall unit should go faster now that I have done it once already, but I don't really care- this is a fun kit to work on and I enjoy the building process more that the finished piece just sitting there.


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## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

*Mine so far*

Believe it or not it's been painted and has a more orange tint to it without the flash.


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Richard, I know what you mean, about enjoying the building process. I have been working on the control room, modifying it a lot, for over a month now. Usually I get bored and move to another model, but this is fun.

Antimatter, looking fine!


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## spocks beard (Mar 21, 2007)

Antimatter said:


> Believe it or not it's been painted and has a more orange tint to it without the flash.


what color did you use on the hull sections? Marigold? It looks like a nice smooth paint job.:thumbsup:


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## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

spocks beard said:


> what color did you use on the hull sections? Marigold? It looks like a nice smooth paint job.:thumbsup:


Thanks guys. Chrome yellow for a base and then school bus yellow. It's much more orange/yellow in person. I'll try another picture tonight.


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## Antimatter (Feb 16, 2008)

This thread died. Anymore folks with pics?


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

When this kit was first released there had been some discussion about a potential Landing Gear/Claw accessory kit. The bottom half of the hull has the inner hatch structure molded in so opening them up would be easy (and Fun). Does anybody know if the idea of a LG/C kit was set in motion or cancelled?

.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I haven't heard anything, but this weekend would be a great time for an announcement (assuming there is one to be made).


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

I now have a FS model. I picked up one at my Monday visit to Hobby Town. I also, got paint for it, and my control room. It makes a different holding one, than just seeing the work on them here. 

No mention on Landing Gear/Claw accessory kit lately. Wonderfest is full of surprises, so we shall see.


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## RB (Jul 29, 1998)

I've got a question pertaining to the FS seats and attached equipment. Hope one of you knowledgeable guys can help out.

I've got Drew's Nelson and Crane figures, and I was thinking of scratchbuilding the communication collars that they wear in many of the episodes. My question is, where do the collar lines connect to the FS seats, or do they even connect? I only have the first half of Season 2 on DVD for reference, so the answer may lie in the later episodes I don't have access to. As always, any info is much appreciated.

And bonus points if you have any idea what the small signage at the front of the armrest is...


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I don't think at this scale the communication cords would be visible.


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

RB, the communication cord looks to be very visable on the figures, from the grabs I have.

I have Seasons 2 and 3 on DVD and have grabbed a lot of shots of the FS. Every shot of the communication collar cord, shows it going to the floor, but one shot showed the cord going to towards the bulkhead. I am guessing it plugs into the panel with the vertical row of lights by the piolet. But with each episode things change, so it is a good of a guess for me.

As for the small signage on the front of the armrest, it looks like a part/specification metal sign. No upclose shots that I have seen.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

gettin lazy in my old age..

I used a few of Henry's decals on my FS-1 panel..










Steve


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## RB (Jul 29, 1998)

Richard Baker said:


> I don't think at this scale the communication cords would be visible.


At 1/32 I would think you would still be able to see them. I wouldn't expect to have to look that hard to find an appropriate type of thread or filament to use.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

RB said:


> At 1/32 I would think you still be able to see them. I wouldn't expect to have to look that hard to find an appropriate type of thread or filament to use.


I agree -- the boys that do all those military models seem to add details like this all the time, and those scales are often smaller than 1/32. 

Me now, I only bother doing what I can still see! :freak:

Steve123 -- your dash looks nice! 

--Henry


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I am going to do the neck micophones as well. I think fine black sewing thread would be fine... Thanks the decals are making up for my lack of fine detail painting skill, what a hoot to se 'em in the sub...


----------



## RB (Jul 29, 1998)

Lloyd Collins said:


> RB, the communication cord looks to be very visable on the figures, from the grabs I have.
> 
> I have Seasons 2 and 3 on DVD and have grabbed a lot of shots of the FS. Every shot of the communication collar cord, shows it going to the floor, but one shot showed the cord going to towards the bulkhead. I am guessing it plugs into the panel with the vertical row of lights by the piolet. But with each episode things change, so it is a good of a guess for me.


Thanks Lloyd. I've seen the cord hang down towards the floor but I've never seen it going back _up _to any attachment on the seats. Your suggestion about the row of lights panel seems pretty sound and if I go forward with the cord I'll probably have it attach there. 



Lloyd Collins said:


> As for the small signage on the front of the armrest, it looks like a part/specification metal sign. No upclose shots that I have seen.


From a distance, it almost looks like the Greyhound bus line insignia! I may see if I can run off a small decal with the general shape and appearance.


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## RB (Jul 29, 1998)

g_xii said:


> I agree -- the boys that do all those military models seem to add details like this all the time, and those scales are often smaller than 1/32.
> 
> Me now, I only bother doing what I can still see! :freak:


I agree, why should those guys have all the fun, doing those small details and losing their eyesight in the process!:tongue:


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

That's the spirit,RB! 
How about a clipboard to lay in the lap of Crane? 

I remember when I was younger, and doing German war dioramas, I would add maps, books, and such for added details, to bring it to more realism.


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## WEAPON X (Mar 5, 2006)

steve123 said:


> gettin lazy in my old age..
> 
> I used a few of Henry's decals on my FS-1 panel..
> 
> ...


Look great Steve!


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Steve you can't be THAT lazy, you posted the picture! 
The decals look good, so why not use them.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I only wish I'd have opted for them before assembly...they really add to the look of the ship. I thought the vinyl floor was unnesessary, but it's so cool looking when lit up! it's got little mettallic sparkles imbedded in it and when you look into the windows, it's like hollywood. Thanks guys...yup, still not done with my Sub....


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

*Just Got My Sub...*

I went nuts with the extras: TSDS full decal/vinyl floor set, Light kits from Just an Illusion, photo etch from Para..something. Can't wait to get into it. I built the Aurora version as a kid-I'm 46, and it was by far my favorite. I remember ordering it out of the back ad section of a comic book. My first mail order! I haven't built a big project for 10 years. Gosh I want it to be perfect. I'm reading everything that you guys write. Please give me any quick hints as I move forward. I look forward to posting pics...:wave:
More unopened builds: Spindrift, PL J2, PL B-9, Chariot, Pod...


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## RB (Jul 29, 1998)

Lloyd Collins said:


> That's the spirit,RB!
> How about a clipboard to lay in the lap of Crane?
> 
> I remember when I was younger, and doing German war dioramas, I would add maps, books, and such for added details, to bring it to more realism.


Yeah, actually, I have thought about giving Crane some extra bit of business, and either a clipboard or maybe some kind of mission dossier is a great idea!

You know, I bought two Flying Sub kits, with the intention of doing the first as a fast build and the second with all the bells and whistles. But ever since I took the first kit it out of the box, it *won't* let me do things half-way! I guess great kits can overwhelm you with inspiration. Considering what I want to do with the first kit, I shudder to think what I'll end up doing with the second! Maybe I can get a wire rig together and the second can be my "Flying Lydecker" version!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

it is a hoot to work on isn't it?

I have a playboy mag on the bunk and various other little add...ons..I don't really want to stop working on it..

Steve


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I love this kit a lot but I need to shelve things for a couple of weeks. I have a commisioned painting in the works that is going to take most of my time and focus for a while. I will keep watching the threads for updats on other people's builds though.

.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I just moved into my new two bedroom apartment and had some time to work on my FS lighting. It was hard to find all the parts from my last build.... I need to thank Steve ( steve123) and Richard Baker for sending me the 
tunnel lighting caps:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:..... I can't thank them enough for their help....:thumbsup:


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

teslabe said:


> I just moved into my new two bedroom apartment and had some time to work on my FS lighting. It was hard to find all the parts from my last build.... I need to thank Steve ( steve123) and Richard Baker for sending me the
> tunnel lighting caps:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:..... I can't thank them enough for their help....:thumbsup:


That's looking really nice!

I'm thinking that if someone were insane enough to do the drilling and cutting channels for the wiring you could almost use small rectangle LEDs in the same way...


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Steve H said:


> That's looking really nice!
> 
> I'm thinking that if someone were insane enough to do the drilling and cutting channels for the wiring you could almost use small rectangle LEDs in the same way...


Bin there,done that.....

I'm sorry if I didn't point out that there are LED lights under the plastic shells.:wave:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I'll post some pictures of them lite soon.... I just have so much other stuff to do first.......


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

teslabe said:


> Bin there,done that.....
> 
> I'm sorry if I didn't point out that there are LED lights under the plastic shells.:wave:


Wow, holy crud that's amazing! 

Say, have you tried that 'conductive glue' I've heard about? It's some new 'cold solder' kind of carbon nanotube thing where you paint it on, say, over a LED lead and the wire and it bonds just like solder, only no heat, no iron, no flux, no risk to parts or electronics. It sounds too good to be true and perfect for someone as ham-handed with a soldering iron as I am... 

I got to thinking, what if you could use that INSTEAD of wire, for really thin or small areas, just lay a line (two lines) of conducting glue from the LED to a hidden area where you have larger wires to run to the power...if that could be done the things, the options that creates...


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Steve H said:


> Wow, holy crud that's amazing!
> 
> Say, have you tried that 'conductive glue' I've heard about? It's some new 'cold solder' kind of carbon nanotube thing where you paint it on, say, over a LED lead and the wire and it bonds just like solder, only no heat, no iron, no flux, no risk to parts or electronics. It sounds too good to be true and perfect for someone as ham-handed with a soldering iron as I am...
> 
> I got to thinking, what if you could use that INSTEAD of wire, for really thin or small areas, just lay a line (two lines) of conducting glue from the LED to a hidden area where you have larger wires to run to the power...if that could be done the things, the options that creates...


Thanks Steve.....:wave:

I have used conductive epoxies, they sound better then they work.....
Too hard to keep a good conductive path, I like using "Mag wire". Works 
far better......:thumbsup:


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Teslabe,
I used some of the mag wire you sent on my pod to lite the four outside spots

I can see why you like it so much. It was a simple thing to run it down the inside edge of the window frame and cover it with a bit of putty.

keeping the pos and neg leads straight can be a bit tricky :freak:

can't wait to see the lit pics


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Nice work! show us a pic with them lit up and the walls in place. doooit!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Teslabe,
> I used some of the mag wire you sent on my pod to lite the four outside spots
> 
> I can see why you like it so much. It was a simple thing to run it down the inside edge of the window frame and cover it with a bit of putty.
> ...


I love the stuff and have gauges as small as 38AWG, let know 
if you need some more.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Steve244 said:


> Nice work! show us a pic with them lit up and the walls in place. doooit!


Thank you Steve. Here is a reposted picture from my post #81 on page 6
of this thread to give an idea of how they will look lite. I used 36AWG wire
for the the other lights.


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## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

sigh... that'll do for now. I'm concerned about banging my head in the bunk though.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Steve H said:


> Wow, holy crud that's amazing!
> 
> Say, have you tried that 'conductive glue' I've heard about? It's some new 'cold solder' kind of carbon nanotube thing where you paint it on, say, over a LED lead and the wire and it bonds just like solder, only no heat, no iron, no flux, no risk to parts or electronics. It sounds too good to be true and perfect for someone as ham-handed with a soldering iron as I am...
> 
> I got to thinking, what if you could use that INSTEAD of wire, for really thin or small areas, just lay a line (two lines) of conducting glue from the LED to a hidden area where you have larger wires to run to the power...if that could be done the things, the options that creates...


Avoid the conductive glues/pain on wire stuff with 'nanotubes'. I bought some to experiment with. It has high resistence and does not like to adhere to styrene.
Adhesive metal foil works much better IMO.


----------



## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Teslabe, It is looking so good! 

I will still watch and learn here before I do mine. Besides, I have other models to finish first.

I am still grabbing shot from the DVDs of the FS. I notice where the bunk is, sometimes their will be computers there instead. It is giving me thoughts....


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lloyd Collins said:


> Teslabe, It is looking so good!
> 
> I will still watch and learn here before I do mine. Besides, I have other models to finish first.
> 
> I am still grabbing shot from the DVDs of the FS. I notice where the bunk is, sometimes their will be computers there instead. It is giving me thoughts....


Thank you very much Lloyd....:wave: It's a fun build and now that I have a room just for model building, I hope to get going on it. I still have so much left to do, but I'm loving every minute......


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Kent! oh wow, you have very strong JU-JU

Very nice work.

Now you need a "girlie" mag on that bunk.

Steve


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

steve123 said:


> Kent! oh wow, you have very strong JU-JU
> 
> Very nice work.
> 
> ...


THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH Steve, I could not have done it without
your donation......:wave: I hope to get more done this weekend, like mask and paint the blue on the fins and bottom docking ring......:thumbsup: If I 
can find the decals, I'll work on the walls and light it up for test check.
Send me your address in a PM, I have some cool multicolor flashing 3mm
LED's with resistors I'd like to send you.

P.S. Again a BIG THANK YOU, Also to Richard Baker's donation.....:thumbsup:


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Teslabe, did I read it right that you are going to paint the bottom ring blue? It is yellow like the hull, only the top ring, fins, and around the windows are blue. Don't want you to mess up your good work!


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lloyd Collins said:


> Teslabe, did I read it right that you are going to paint the bottom ring blue? It is yellow like the hull, only the top ring, fins, and around the windows are blue. Don't want you to mess up your good work!


Hi Lloyd,
Yes, I will be painting the bottom ring blue. I've worked in the Defense Industry for over 30 years and the last 11 years, with the Navy. If this was a true Navy sub the whole ring and docking port, top and bottom, would have been painted in a contrasting color for easier detection under water. They would have used a video camera and some sort of alignment grid for docking, like they use with the Space Shuttle. I think it's missing on the bottom of the props, just for speed and cost in time to paint it, and the fact that no one back then ever thought about DVD's and models of their work being built some 40 years later.... It just looks right to me, IMHO.....:wave:

P.S. Is anything wrong when working with IA's lack of continuity?????


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Well if it looks right to you, and that is the way you want to do it, that is good enough for me.:thumbsup:


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I am also painting my Flying Sub with both Docking Rings matching. Two identical structures- the reason to make one that way should apply to the second one.
When I was first watching the show as a kid I never noticed the yellow lower ring- I built my Aurora one that way. The yellow just looks weird to me still.

.


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

I just think they did the top and not the bottom because back then who would notice or care, so for speed of getting the props built and cost, why paint something no one would even notice in a fast flyby. I think some us 
over think this stuff...... Just a thought.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

It could be- most of the shows back in the sixties never antcipated somebody might be able to look at them years later, let alone do frame by frame studies.

.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

I'm glad to hear that you guys are planning to make the bottom ring blue as well. It just looks better that way.

I couldn't figure why it wasn't molded in yellow, if were meant to be yellow


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I couldn't figure why it wasn't molded in yellow, if were meant to be yellow


Hi Lou,
I'm not sure what you trying to say here....


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> I'm glad to hear that you guys are planning to make the bottom ring blue as well. It just looks better that way.
> 
> I couldn't figure why it wasn't molded in yellow, if were meant to be yellow


 
I've wondered that, too, and my only guess is that because the upper hatch "disk" was to be painted overall blue, it was decided that light grey plastic was the best option for molding both in, so as the blue paint wouldn't wind up having a "greenish" tint to it several months or years after the kit was painted and sitting on the shelf. 
Oh, well, time will tell if that theory holds any truth to it, considering the pinstripes are blue paint on yellow surfaces.


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## Dave Metzner (Jan 1, 1970)

The hatch discs are molded in gray because there wasn't enough room in a yellow tool for them and we didn't want to mold the whole kit in yellow.....

Dave


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

I'm gonna re-paint mine silver and have a bunch of dazed looking aliens laying around...lol


----------



## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Dave Metzner said:


> The hatch discs are molded in gray because there wasn't enough room in a yellow tool for them and we didn't want to mold the whole kit in yellow.....
> 
> Dave


Hi Dave,
I never gave any thought to the color of the parts to be anything more then the fact that the bottom ring does not have to move like the top for viewing the interior, so just molding it into the bottom hull made sense. Now, it would have been nice to have it a separate ring on the bottom to make it easy to paint, but since I'm in the minority, I have no problem with masking it off......:thumbsup: All I can say is "I love this kit and all the IA kits I've got, and I have many......."
I just hope I can do it justice....

P.S. Seaview's point also made alot of sense......:thumbsup:


----------



## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Since I am used to seeing the lower ring yellow, it would bother me to paint it blue, so yellow for me.
This is one reason we model, to do it our way, and to be happy with our choices.

You know I could make it an order to paint it yellow!:lol:


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## teslabe (Oct 20, 2007)

Lloyd Collins said:


> You know I could make it an order to paint it yellow!:lol:


OMG, I suck at following orders...... Just burn me at the stake......
I taste best with "A-One".....:wave:


P.S. It will be "Blue Bellow".


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

I'm painting mine BLACK!
I had a black & white TV when I was growing up watching this series and painted the first Aurora kit with black trim. It is how I think of the ship and I really like it that way. Since I am not modeling the original Flying Sub (FS-1) but a later variant (FS-2-27) with other changes (two reactor walls) the minor color change fits right in.


----------



## Steve244 (Jul 22, 2001)

Richard Baker said:


> I'm painting mine BLACK!
> I had a black & white TV when I was growing up watching this series and painted the first Aurora kit with black trim. It is how I think of the ship and I really like it that way. Since I am not modeling the original Flying Sub (FS-1) but a later variant (FS-2-27) with other changes (two reactor walls) the minor color change fits right in.


The FS-2-27 with twin flight-certified Rickovers was an awesome improvement over FS-1 (it tended to fly around in circles).


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## Steve H (Feb 8, 2009)

So that makes the Aquafoil the Model 2 block 27 version? works for me


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Steve244 said:


> The FS-2-27 with twin flight-certified Rickovers was an awesome improvement over FS-1 (it tended to fly around in circles).


I sort of went over my idea much earlier in this monster thread but here it is in a nutshell-
The VttBotS Flying Sub was always refered to as FS-1, even when it was destroyed and replaced several times. For me FS-1 was the experimental prototype developed by Nelson's Institute and deployed on the Seaview. It went through several equipment revisions (AKA continuity errors) for several years. After that preriod it was developed as a production model and built in quanities. This model I refer to as FS-2. It has one major change, the replacement of the bunk/storage area with a second Reactor. This allows the craft to have the two reactors function at partial power instead of one unit running at full power all the time. In case of trouble either reactor can power the ship and it also provides better flight balancing. My model will represent the 27th production unit.
The FS-3 production line was renamed the Aqua-Foil and used extensively constructing 'the City Beneath the Sea'. In addition to the second reactor, the Aquafoil had extensive cabin revisions based on the Spindrift class sub-orbital transport also being developed.

FS-2-27 Revised Cabin under contruction:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/RBaker2164/S5030057-1.jpg

I always like the Symetrical drive setup as seen in 'tCBtS' and decided not to lose sleep trying to build a perfect replica of the Flying Sub as seen on the screen in Voyage. This gives me some mental elbow room to enjoy builing this kit for fun (a rare thing these days...)

.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

^^It's a good thing you won't lose sleep..

seeing as you took out the bunk.

Ba Da Bump:wave:

thank you, i'm here all week


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Lou!:lol:


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## Tim Nolan (Jul 9, 2008)

I just got my large Flying Sub kit last week from Steve. Very impressive just in sheer size. Should be fun to attack with detail. I picked up three cans of Tamiya "Camel Yellow" to shoot it with. It has more of an orange-yellow look to it, but just slightly. I used the chrome-yellow on the mini-version, which looked god, but I like this color even better. I'm not a rattle-canner by nature, it's all airbrush/touch-up gun for me most times, but the stuff does spray pretty nice, and dries very fast and hard. I just got the figure set from Drew, now I'm trolling for aftermarket parts. I'll probably get the lighting from Randy at Voodoofx, I really like his stuff. It fits right and works right. I'm looking at Herb's decals too, they look good. I really like the floor decal set he has. Is there a photoetch set for this big kit yet? I'll start this one soon.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Tim,
I believe Paul is working on an etch set. and of course, there are painting templates:wave:


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Please tell us, Lou, who produces those fine painting templates.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Oh, modesty forbids...


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

Tim Nolan said:


> Is there a photoetch set for this big kit yet?


I've just sent in a revised set of artwork for approval. (A couple of minor issues - nothing heart stopping.) So I expect to be ordering tooling around the end of the week!

In addition to the photoetch itself, I'll also be offering decals matched to the photoetch as well as decals that will go with the stock kit interior. As always, both sets of decals will be printed by JT Graphics ... and will incorporate the new metalic printing that debuted with the updated Seaview decals.

I expect to be shipping in about 3 to 4 weeks. (I feel very confident in this timing.)


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## mrdean (Aug 11, 1998)

Paulbo said:


> I've just sent in a revised set of artwork for approval. (A couple of minor issues - nothing heart stopping.) So I expect to be ordering tooling around the end of the week!
> 
> In addition to the photoetch itself, I'll also be offering decals matched to the photoetch as well as decals that will go with the stock kit interior. As always, both sets of decals will be printed by JT Graphics ... and will incorporate the new metalic printing that debuted with the updated Seaview decals.
> 
> I expect to be shipping in about 3 to 4 weeks. (I feel very confident in this timing.)


Howdy!

Do you have a price yet? Pre-orders yet?

Thanks!

Mark Dean


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## Krel (Jun 7, 2000)

Richard Baker said:


> I sort of went over my idea much earlier in this monster thread but here it is in a nutshell-
> The VttBotS Flying Sub was always refered to as FS-1, even when it was destroyed and replaced several times. For me FS-1 was the experimental prototype developed by Nelson's Institute and deployed on the Seaview.


More likely the FS-1 designation was given to any FS that was attached to the Seaview. Much like how the Air Force-1 designation is given to any aircraft that the President of United States is on.

I remember in one episode of Voyage, they mentioned the Flying Sub pens at the Nelson Institude, so there must have been a few Flying Subs.

David.


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## Richard Baker (Aug 8, 2006)

Krel said:


> More likely the FS-1 designation was given to any FS that was attached to the Seaview. Much like how the Air Force-1 designation is given to any aircraft that the President of United States is on.
> 
> I remember in one episode of Voyage, they mentioned the Flying Sub pens at the Nelson Institude, so there must have been a few Flying Subs.
> 
> David.


I would love to make a diorama of the Flying Sub pens using the new mini-Kit- showing some under consrtuction, others ready for use. If I get creative with mirrors it could save some costs...

.


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## trekkist (Oct 31, 2002)

FS-1 being a radio callsign cited in communications between the 2 vehicles seems to me to imply Seaview carried an "FS-2" also, cunningly tucked behind the main hangar, concealed by Irwin-o-slide doors.


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Paul, thanks for the update. I am still looking forward to them, model on hold.


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

After several detailed months of trial, error and trial I am finishing my Flying Sub this weekend. A while back I wrote about my over use of Clear Coat on the top part of the FS and how it cracked on me. I tried Future Floor wax and then a mix of Future and Simple green to heighten the gloss and it worked great! If you're looking for a glassy gloss coat, this is the way to go. Just cover it IMMEDIATELY as any dust particle or nat will get stuck in the stuff as it takes a full day to dry and harden.


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## Krel (Jun 7, 2000)

My take on Flying Sub designations.

Flying sub Mark I.

FS-1
Any flying sub assigned to the Seaview.

FS-2 to ?
Flying subs attached to the Nelson Institute for Marine Research. Assigned to various vessels, and research facilities, designation assigned by importance.

Flying Fish-1, 2, and 3
Flying subs attached to the Office of the President of the United States.

Flying Fish-4 to ?
Flying subs attached to the U.S. Navy, and the Federal Bureau of Marine Exploration.

Flying sub Mark II

Aquafoil
Designation given to the Flying Sub Mark II by the U. S. Navy. Answering the Navy's request for a faster flying sub for transportation purposes, the Nelson Institute added a second nuclear reactor that increased the engines power. The Mk. II can carry heavier loads ,travel faster, and fly higher than the Mk. I. 

One of first assignments for the Aquafoil was to the Federal Bureau of Marine Exploration's Pacifica undersea research colony project.

David.


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Hey I am looking for a pic of the rear of the flying sub. I forgot to get a pic of it at Wonderfest. Can some one post one Please


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

here you go.


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Thanks for your help!!!


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

*FS-1 Interior fit*

I was test fitting the cabin into the hull sections tonight and could not for the life of me get it to sit down enough to close the upper and lower hull pieces. It appears the the walls of the bunk section are rubbing up against the upper hull. 

It's not a big deal to fix, but i was wondering if anyone else found the same thing during assembly? I'm going to have to shave a couple of mm of the walls to make it sit down.


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## richlen2 (Apr 2, 2009)

I had the same problem and found that it was all those pins not lining up and inserting properly from floor into base. It took me a couple of hours to get them to match up (start from the back pin and work your way up rotating slightly with each try. OR just cut them off the floor and rest the floor on the bottom pins in a position where you think they should go and where the top fits. My flying sub top and bottom fit like a glove.


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Thanks, I looked at the pins but thought I had them all sitting correctly. I was surprised to find the problem in the first place and it makes sense that it's me... 

That's why I like taking my time testfitting. I get most problems sorted before the glue hits the table.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I found that if you sand down the edge of the lower vent ring about 1/2 inch,where it meets the floor that it will take care of the fit problem.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

falcondesigns said:


> I found that if you sand down the edge of the lower vent ring about 1/2 inch...


Alex, I wonder if you can clarify what you mean here. Seems to me if you "sand down the edge of the vent ring 1/2 inch" there won't be any ring left.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I sanded it down on the inside at the outer ring edge so that the floor sit on top of it,not on the edge that connects to the body.I was careful not to sand too deep that it broke the edge.I must say that this problem happened on the test shot I did,it did not happen on the production model I have.


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Gotcha.

I plan to install the interior this weekend, and hopefully the fit issue won't be a problem.

What I hope to avoid is anything involving the trimming of the bunk. I installed a (thin) false roof over this piece, and I don't want to have to tear it out and start over.


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## Ductapeforever (Mar 6, 2008)

My Flying sub fell together, no fit issues whatsoever. Front window frame sat at just the right angle to mate the upper and lower hulls flush, no gaps. Beautiful!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Ham here is a shot of the 1/23nd scale FS, looks like the other pic is of the small version.










I have got to make some seat harnesses for this thing..I take a cool shot and DOH! I never did the harnesses...









Hey Carson, Mine fit fine without sanding the ring. But I did need to cut a trough in the ring to run the wiring for the floor lights.
The bunk wall is lower than the rest of the interior so you should be fine with the ceiling as long as the plastic is thin.









Steve


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## Lloyd Collins (Sep 25, 2004)

Mighty fine looking,Steve!

I TOLD you about making the harness, BUT, NO! You never listen to me.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Lloyd,
Just as I was reviewing the picture, DOH!...I'll never get that nice a shot through the windows again!...I've been fooling around this afternoon with tape, wine bottle foil, the webbing looks fine...but I have no etched buckles...silver paint?,...nope, wire? a little better...I just need to get some etched buckles....

Steve


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## ham1963 (May 4, 2001)

Thanks Steve for the pics.


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Wow, Steve! That really looks very nice! Is that Gil's lighting? I recognize a few of the decals, too!

--Henry


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Nope it's the Voodoo FX lighting kit. Nobody ever sent me a GIL kit.
The Decals come from all over...

Great pic isn't it?


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## Proteus (Sep 29, 2007)

*Front Viewports for Moebius Flying Sub*

I am thinking of replacing the kit supplied front viewport windows for the Moebius Flying Sub. I was thinking 1/32nd inch thick plexiglass or acrylic would work, but I am not sure. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could use and where I could purchase the material?


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## Carson Dyle (May 7, 2003)

Get yourself some clear styrene sheet. This is available at most hobby shops and/ or online dealers. Evergreen is one brand. 1/32 may be a bit thick; whatever you use needs to be able to flex a bit without putting undo pressure on the surrounding frame. Get a couple of different gages and see what works best.

I don’t recall the exact gage I used, but I trimmed out appropriately sized and shaped sections and used 5-minute epoxy to affix them to the inside of the frame. Neatness doesn't count at this point because you're going to sand down and paint over the sloppy areas after the epoxy has cured (allow 24 hours just to be safe).










I then masked off the area I wanted to remain clear from the inside and painted the surrounding area grey (painting was in progress when this test-fit shot was taken). Not the best angle to illustrate the technique, but you get the idea.










Care must be taken to mask the inside of the windows so the epoxy and paint don’t “spill” across the edges when seen from the outside.


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## Proteus (Sep 29, 2007)

Thank you for suggesting sheet styrene. I know where I can get some Evergreen clear sheets. I will let you know how it progresses.


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## Tonyray (Jul 31, 2009)

Here is my flying sub so far still waiting on the voodoofx lighting kit I did light the dash panel sorry about the picture hard to take with out a flash.

















































Here is the stand


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## hedorah59 (Nov 24, 2008)

She looks great, Tonyray!


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