# 4 gear build



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Hello all and God bless. Hope the new year is being good to you all.

My wife wants me to build her a van to race (play) with. She only drives my aw magnet cars, as her skills are not the greatest.

I have ordered a couple of old afx junker van bodies to fix up.

My question is as follows,
Should I get a couple of aw magnet chassis to put under them, or would it be better to use old afx chassis, and maybe glue in some of the dot magnets myself?

I have no experience as yet with 4 gear chassis, and need advice.

I want to build her the smoothest, stickiest, fastest runner possible, capable of many reliable laps between tune ups...

I also need a source for the little mounting screws..anyone know what size ( numerically) they are?

Thanks for the help&#55357;&#56841;


----------



## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

My experience with AW 4 gears is that they take A LOT of tuning to get them to run fast and smooth. The later releases of AW T-jet and X-tractions with the Ultra-G magnets are not perfect but run much better and have some stick to them. With a single magnet they do not stick as well as any of the inline cars with dual magnets.

I have added a rare earth magnet from Radio shack to the bottom of 1 side of an original magnatraction with good results.

Lots of folks still run Tyco and my experience is that they are very consistant as far as speed and handling from car to car. Others can speak to that better.


----------



## Dragula (Jun 27, 2003)

The only 2 issues with afx 4-gears really is the horrible crown gear mesh,a small shim usually cures it,and the pinion gear will split because the arm shaft is larger than the gears hole and over time they just crack.I have tons and I mean tons of 4-gears (afx) so if you need parts or advice don't hesitate to ask.Hopefully some other slot gurus on here will share more info and get you squared away and running many smooth laps.
Christian


----------



## tasman (Feb 17, 2007)

Dragula said:


> The only 2 issues with afx 4-gears really is the horrible crown gear mesh,a small shim usually cures it,and the pinion gear will split because the arm shaft is larger than the gears hole and over time they just crack.I have tons and I mean tons of 4-gears (afx) so if you need parts or advice don't hesitate to ask.Hopefully some other slot gurus on here will share more info and get you squared away and running many smooth laps.
> Christian


I was speaking about AW 4 gears. 

I have a few of the AW 4 gears and I can't get a single one to run freely. I have tried lapping the gears repeatedly and can not get the drive train to run without binding. With the center gear removed the arm spins freely and sounds like they should be very fast. There is no binding with the rear axle. I would love to get mine to run better. I've read every thread about tuning them and nothing I do seems to free them up.


----------



## dlw (Aug 17, 1999)

The key is good gear mesh without binding. First put a slight bend in the middle of the gear clamp to help hold the top plate, and keep the 2nd gear from moving up and down. Then check the 4th gear to see if it wobbles. This is caused by a loose rivet. Gentle tightening will clear that up. Those things should fix the gear mesh for you.


----------



## Dragula (Jun 27, 2003)

My bad,I thought you were thinking of getting some original 4 gear chassis to.
christian


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

I wound up ordering her an aw chassis, but I will probably build me an old afx one..

I'm still wondering where to get the mounting screws..are they the same as tjet screws? Anyone know the number size they are?

Also, it seems everyone covets the blue tip drag arm...why?
I won't be drag racing, I have a twisty road course..


----------



## Dragula (Jun 27, 2003)

Body mounting screws are longer than tjets,gearplate to chassis screws are shorter.How many of which ones do you need and I will give them to you free.
the blue arm wound a bit higher for a good long straight,the stock red/gold or "red devil" will do just fine for your road course.


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Thanks man&#55357;&#56841;
Sending you a pm


----------



## Dragula (Jun 27, 2003)

My pleasure.
Christian


----------



## slotcarman12078 (Oct 3, 2008)

Another possibility for binding is the crown gear. With the top plate off it spins fine, but it might be tight against the chassis base with the top plate installed. Taking a little off the back might fix that. Also check for burrs on the outer edge of the crown....


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Admitting my ignorance..

Which one is the crown gear?&#55357;&#56841;


----------



## Bubba 123 (Sep 10, 2010)

leonus said:


> Admitting my ignorance..
> 
> Which one is the crown gear?&#55357;&#56841;


gear on axle "Ring-Gear" in 1:1's...

Bubba 123 :thumbsup::wave:


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Ok, so my 4 gear chassis arrived.

I see plainly where the opening is for the front mounting screw.

The van body has another screwpost, to the rear, in the middle of the gear section of the chassis..

What am I missing?

Or is this second post just a stand off that sits atop the chassis?


----------



## Dragula (Jun 27, 2003)

leonus said:


> Ok, so my 4 gear chassis arrived.
> 
> I see plainly where the opening is for the front mounting screw.
> 
> ...


AW or AFX body?
Christian


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Afx body, aw chassis..

After further work and inspection I think I have figured things out.

The second post actually sits just behind the chassis. Its part of the windshield glass assembly, and I had removed it for painting the body, so I was confused about where it would wind up when it was assembled. Still not sure of its original purpose, since it is hollow like a screwpost..

After tuning the aw chassis using you guys helpful tips, it runs like a bat outa you know where, smooth and FAST &#55357;&#56841;

This should be a fun one for my wife.


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

Just wanted to say thanks to Chris (Dragula) Rolph.

Sent me free mounting screws that work perfectly.

It's rare these days to find someone who will use their own time and money to do something nice, especially without being asked in the first place.

Thank you sir, and God bless &#55357;&#56841;


----------



## Dragula (Jun 27, 2003)

My pleasure.
Christian


----------



## kazooracer (Jul 19, 2005)

dlw said:


> Then check the 4th gear to see if it wobbles. This is caused by a loose rivet. Gentle tightening will clear that up. Those things should fix the gear mesh for you.


This weekend I tore apart an AW 4-gear chassis that has always made a lot of gear noise. I can see the fourth gear and rivet wobble around when power is applied. What's the best way to fix this? I tried to gently press it further into the chassis but it didn't solve the fact that the rivet still rotates.


----------



## leonus (Dec 17, 2013)

kazooracer said:


> This weekend I tore apart an AW 4-gear chassis that has always made a lot of gear noise. I can see the fourth gear and rivet wobble around when power is applied. What's the best way to fix this? I tried to gently press it further into the chassis but it didn't solve the fact that the rivet still rotates.


You can tighten it by putting the bottom of the gearplate on an anvil, resting on the bottom of the rivet, then using a small punch to tap the top of the rivet.

Use extreme caution, and do not over tighten.

Tap, check, tap, check...

You will want a little slack in the end. If you go to far you will be worse off than when you started..


----------



## glock24 (Feb 3, 2017)

dlw said:


> The key is good gear mesh without binding. First put a slight bend in the middle of the gear clamp to help hold the top plate, and keep the 2nd gear from moving up and down. Then check the 4th gear to see if it wobbles. This is caused by a loose rivet. Gentle tightening will clear that up. Those things should fix the gear mesh for you.


I just came across this thread trying to find a solution for some Magnatraction chassis I have. I tried every chassis with every gear plate and every idler gear I got, I found one combination that's very very smooth, a couple more that are good enough and some others that no matter what won't spin freely with no magnets and no brushes installed.
I noticed in at least one gear plate that the drive gear tilts and doesn't make good contact with the crown gear.
Ho do you tighthen that rivet?


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Can you share your gear combos?

Derilen spacers to tighten the rivet?


----------



## glock24 (Feb 3, 2017)

My best one has a JL or AW chassis, does not have traction magnets. The armature is anf AFX 6.2 ohm with green tips and the gear plate is the one the armature came in (I currently have no tools to remove or change gears or hubs). The idler gear is a standard plastic AFX, but is the one that was smoother with this gear plate.

The second best is an AFX chassis with AFX armature and gear plate. The armature has also green tips and measured 6.4 ohm, but the comms have a groove where the brushes make contact. The idler gear is a plastic one from a Magnasonic.

I got 3 unusable chassis that would not work ok with any gear plate, two are AW with a tracktion magnet pocket but no magnet, the other one is an AFX. When I say they don't work is because the crown gear either slips or there is a lot of drag while turning the wheels.

The worst idler gears are also the JL/AW, they fit too tight and don't allow free movement.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow.


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Could you machine down the tight gears to gain more space?


----------



## N.H. Norman (Jan 19, 2004)

There is a huge amount of information in this section of Hobby Talk:
Slot Car Tuning Tips | Hobbyist Forums (hobbytalk.com) 
Some of the posts are years old, but I remember several that said you could take out the rivet & replace it with a small screw that will tighten up the slop in the rear top plate gear that meshes with the crown gear on the axle.


----------



## glock24 (Feb 3, 2017)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Could you machine down the tight gears to gain more space?


I got no tools for that, I'm better off ordering quality gears. I found this link somewhere:









T-Dash Delrin Idler Gears (4 for $1) - for AW, AFX* with skinny idler


T-Dash Delrin Idler Gear for AW and other 'skinny post' gear plates Delrin replacement Idler gear. For use in AW, AFX* skinny post, also other gear plates with skinny idler post. As with any moving part on a chassis, make sure you keep the idler post oiled!! Four for a $1. *The gear is tight...



dmotors.myshopify.com





As for the drive gear spacer, where can I get them?



N.H. Norman said:


> There is a huge amount of information in this section of Hobby Talk:
> Slot Car Tuning Tips | Hobbyist Forums (hobbytalk.com)
> Some of the posts are years old, but I remember several that said you could take out the rivet & replace it with a small screw that will tighten up the slop in the rear top plate gear that meshes with the crown gear on the axle.


Thanks, I already read some threads there but certainly there's a lot of info. Will dig some more.


----------



## glock24 (Feb 3, 2017)

Milton Fox Racing said:


> Can you share your gear combos?
> 
> Derilen spacers to tighten the rivet?


Here are the overall best ones I put toghther:








































Ando these are the ones that won't work at all:


----------



## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Thanks for the details and images.

As to delrin I cant find any in a tube structure - only sheets and rods. My source is old Hot Wheels Red Line wheel bearings. Either way you would probable have to machine them to fit.


----------



## Rich Dumas (Sep 3, 2008)

You might take a look at this: Magnatraction X-Traction Tuning Rev 4.pdf


----------



## glock24 (Feb 3, 2017)

Rich Dumas said:


> You might take a look at this: Magnatraction X-Traction Tuning Rev 4.pdf


Thaks, very helpful. Do you have guides for other chassis types?


----------

