# "Chroming" bumpers--Alclad? Foil? Other stuff?



## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

I have several MEV blem kits that I want to finish, and I was hoping for a way to get the bumpers to look better than just plain old Testors Silver. I have a bunch of foil, but I'm leery about using it on bumpers because they tend to take a beating AND because these are complicated bumper/grilles--if it was a plain little Corvair bumper it might work, but this is like '70 Cadillac and '65 Pontiac to name a couple. I've heard about Alclad, but I don't own an airbrush. 

Anybody have luck brushing on Alclad? How does one get that to work well?

How about Alclad in a spray bomb? Does it exist?

Any other alternatives you all have used that work fairly well?

thanks in advance...

--rick


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## fordcowboy (Dec 27, 1999)

I have used a brush on alclad it works ok. I like using .Silver chrome trim 2734 from model master. You can get it at hobby lobby for 3.29 a bottle. lp


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## ParkRNDL (Mar 20, 2002)

fordcowboy said:


> I have used a brush on alclad it works ok. I like using .Silver chrome trim 2734 from model master. You can get it at hobby lobby for 3.29 a bottle. lp


they opened a Hobby Lobby near me not long ago. thanks for the number... that will be my first option if Alclad seems prohibitively expensive, which i think it will...

do you put clear over the Model Master stuff?

--rick


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## Hilltop Raceway (Feb 12, 2006)

I've tried Alclad and was happy with the results for what it is. What ever your painting, spray on a "gloss" black basecoat. Then spray on thin coats of the Alclad. Spraying gives a uniform coat. The black reflects the Alclad paint particles to give a chrome effect. You can use a clear as a topcoat for protection. Never have tried brushing it, but I'm sure others have their own technique that will work also...RM


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## ebi (Jan 24, 2007)

I do like the MM Testors chrome. It also
works fine with a black base.
It looses gloss so i leave it uncovered.
Just a little polishing.
I manually brush ModelMaster Testors and also
use it thinned in my airbrush. Off course the surface
looks better then!

Kind regards

Ebi


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## SplitPoster (May 16, 2006)

I like the Alcad, with a good gloss black underneath it looks like metal (which it is, actually). I have dabbed it and it seems to work OK. Just make sure you have the right solvent to thin or clean up, or use a disposable brush. 

I haven't fooled with airbrushing much either, but I set up an old air tank to use.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

*One good coat*

For some reason my bucket is haywire so we gotta do this the hard way

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/?action=view&current=DSC06223.jpg

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/?action=view&current=DSC05868-2.jpg

Alclad takes practice!!!

I prefer Alclad sprayed over gloss black enamel or lacquer. One good wet coat...or no more than two passes in succession "wet on wet". When dry, dip in future.

If you've ever sprayed Alclad you may have noticed a weird effect where you can see all the silver particulate align itself perfectly like a mirror on the black paint. The darn stuff swims around like a school of fish. When dry, you can just make out the black behind the silver. I call it "shimmer" for lack of a better term. IMHO it is similar to actual chrome which appears blue-er-black depending on how the light hits it and your viewing angle. It's my goal everytime I use Alclad. 

This effect ONLY occurs on the first pass. Adding more material detracts from the effect and eventually Alclad becomes no better than any other bomb can silver as the layers pile up. Protective clears, be they enamel or lacquer also detract from the overall effect. The trick is to keep yer head and remember that less is more, lay one good wet coat and walk away. Another trick for Alclad is to not group your pieces together when spraying. This way you wont overpsray onto another freshly sprayed piece. 

I dont always get it just right. Shown above are my GMC PU and a Jag resto.
The PU's Alclad is noticeably better in person if the pic doesnt show it. The only difference is that the Jag bumpers had a slight thin spot (a miss) to which I applied just a skoshe more material... and poof....nifty effect be gone. 

If your just gonna paint stuff, Testors Silver Argent brush touches nicely and is the best match (IMHO) for Aurora accents when airbrushed. Of equal importance is that it doesnt begin to dry and "mud up" on the work piece or your brush as quickly as other products. Extended work time is always good and higher flash rate silvers are a pain in the arse if you have anything more than a daub here and a daub there. 

If you use Model Master be sure to get the "Burnishable" stuff otherwise it rubs right off. 

Good luck!


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

*Helium baloon stuff....*

I got some "tissue-thin" material from an old helium baloon, I think it's some kind of "mylar". Anyway, it's tough as nails(unlike foil) and you can poke-it into almost any crevice on a body surface without tearing it. I use thin super-glue on the surface to be covered then carefully begin pushing a "rough-cut" piece of the material onto the bumper, grill, etc...When dried, trim excess material. The stuff I'm using is only coated on one side with the "silver-stuff" and it will rub off (otherwise the material is actually clear "mylar"?). The coated-side shines brightly, but like I said, it can wear/rub off. So, I turn that side down and let the "dull-side" show thru. It may be dull looking chrome, but in "HO" scale, it looks more realistic than a "mirror" type shine, and it doesn't wear/rub off.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

WooffWooff said:


> I got some "tissue-thin" material from an old helium baloon, I think it's some kind of "mylar". Anyway, it's tough as nails(unlike foil) and you can poke-it into almost any crevice on a body surface without tearing it. I use thin super-glue on the surface to be covered then carefully begin pushing a "rough-cut" piece of the material onto the bumper, grill, etc...When dried, trim excess material. The stuff I'm using is only coated on one side with the "silver-stuff" and it will rub off (otherwise the material is actually clear "mylar"?). The coated-side shines brightly, but like I said, it can wear/rub off. So, I turn that side down and let the "dull-side" show thru. It may be dull looking chrome, but in "HO" scale, it looks more realistic than a "mirror" type shine, and it doesn't wear/rub off.


Have any pix? :thumbsup: rr


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

*Real metal....*

I've never used any of these products, but thought you might want to check out http://www.bare-metal.com/


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

roadrner said:


> Have any pix? :thumbsup: rr


I'll try and get some up next week.


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

*I'm no pro...*



roadrner said:


> Have any pix? :thumbsup: rr


...but I'm satisfied with these results. At 700 scale mph, it looks excellent. Foiled parts include sidepipes, gas-cap,grill, bumpers,headlights and tail-light covers.


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## Bill Hall (Jan 6, 2007)

Nice cars!

Got more?


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

*Thanks!*



Bill Hall said:


> Nice cars!
> 
> Got more?


Only a couple more that have the "foil" treatment. I'll posts pics soon. Other than those we've got about 2 dozen other RTR T-jets, ie..Indy stock,Trans-Am super-stock(not Fray-type), Modifieds, and "Sportsman Series". We also have RTR AFX (w/brass fronts) and even a few RTR Thunderbikes, but they rarely see track-time. That's not because they aren't tons-O-fun, just not enough time in an average race-day(3-4 hrs every other Sunday). Plus they are competing with the 1/64 scale drag-strip and the "retro" L&J layout w/trains! It's a he*& of a problem, but I'm happy to take the blame.


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## WooffWooff (Dec 23, 2009)

*Better pics, more examples..*

These pics show results much better than the first ones I posted. I keep forgetting to get a pic of the "bulk" material though(dang)!


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## clydeomite (May 5, 2004)

A product I have used and like very well is " Krylon Chrome" Aerosol paint. I get mine from Hobby Lobby and frankly it shines better than Testors or Alclad. One trick I learned is when it dries apply future right away as any handling of painted parts will diminish chrome affect. It is still not as great as Vacuum metalazizing but as close as I've seen from a bottle or can. 
Clyde-0-Mite


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## NTxSlotCars (May 27, 2008)

Has anyone tried electro or chemical plating?
seems like it would be feasible on such a small scale.


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## roadrner (Jul 21, 1999)

You can have them chromed here: 

http://www.chrometechusa.com/

Not too pricey and a great job to boot! :thumbsup::thumbsup: rr


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## bobwoodly (Aug 25, 2008)

*Looked into it*



NTxSlotCars said:


> Has anyone tried electro or chemical plating?
> seems like it would be feasible on such a small scale.


I looked into it but it was too much hassle. First you have to make the piece conductive to take chrome with a copper or silver paint, then a acid copper coat, then chrome. All of the stuff is pricey but looks to be fairly safe and non-toxic.

There is a ton of info here http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/copychrome.htm

Tom


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