# Spindrift



## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Spindrift from Land of the Giants-Now with Finished Pics and Video!*

*This is my current project, the small palm-sized Spindrift from...*










Box Art...










I have the larger Polar Lights kit too but from everything I've seen ands read this tiny kit is actually more accurate than it's larger cousin. 


First thing I did was to fold and glue up the paper interiors for the passenger and pilot cabins. 
A squirt here and there with 3-IN-1 craft glue did the trick...










I plan on lighting this little jewel so the interior was sprayed with flat black enamel for light blocking followed by Tamiya white surface primer for even illumination. 
Adhesive foil was taped to the upper engine compartment for good measure...










I drilled out the holes in the engine exhaust and intake grills with a pinvise. Tedious work but not all that difficult. 
I used progressively smaller bits for the holes along the rim of the indented grills. 
I then applied a coat of Testors Italian Red with a brush. 
I'll mask off the grills later and paint around them with International Orange (per the kit instructions) which looks to be pretty close to the screen color...



















(Cont'd)


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Moving right along...*

Red bits for gluing behind the grills were cut from clear sheet syrene and sprayed with Testors transparent Candy Apple Red...










Looks pretty good with just room light shinig thru from the backside...



















I did the same thing for the grill under the upper dome after drilling the holes out...



















The shelves under the passenger windows seen above were Evergreen strips I glued into place. The paper passenger cabin wood-grain counters will slide in and be glued to them with 3-IN-1 glue.

Wiring for the LEDs will pass thru this brass tube I glued into the lower hull with CA. The original slot for the kit stand was then packed with AVES. Another longer brass tube will fit inside this tube eventually for mounting to the base which will be a custom job and will house a 9 volt battery.



















(cont'd)


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Here are the front windows glued in place. 
The windows werea clear part so I applied small narrow strips of adhessive foil to the inside of the frames for light blocking. 
The pilot cabin was glued in place with 3-IN-1 GLUE.










So tiny but so cool...










Test fitting with the passenger cabin. It's too far forward in this pic.
I'll have to slide it back a touch. 
This will make for a tight fit with the engine LEDs... 











That's all the pics for now. 
My lighting scheme will involve a collection of white and red LEDs. 
I figure one white LED mounted forward to shine down above the pilot's cabin and one just behind it to illuminate the passenger cabin. 
Light from these LEDs should hopefully be enough to illuninate the dome in the ceiling; if not, I may have to add a red LED facing upward under the dome grill. 
This would than be covered underneath with adhesive foil to prevent light leakage into the interior. 
In the engine compartment will be a white (or red) LED in the center shining downward from above with two smaller red LEDs facing rearward in front of each engine exhaust grill. 
Facing forward behind the rear cabin "reactor" wall and shared between the two paisley shaped intake grills will be one self-flashing red LED to give the intakes that pulsing effect.
I'm trying to keep the LED count to no more than 6 if I can. 

*Anyway, thanks for reading along. 

Comments welcome!* 

:thumbsup:


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## solex227 (Apr 23, 2008)

Great start can wait to see whats next :thumbsup:



Solex227


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## nautilusnut (Jul 9, 2008)

I'm building this now. Your work is inspiring


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Very nice! I'm looking forward to seeing more!

--Henry


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

:thumbsup:


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## 41-willys (Jan 7, 2000)

that is looking great, can't wait to see it completed:thumbsup:


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## scooke123 (Apr 11, 2008)

I like what you are doing - looking forward to your progress.
Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Today's update...*

I want to backlight the rear reactor wall in the passenger cabin so I took tiny square and straight strips of aluminum foil tape and laid them on the backside of the wall for the hexagonal framework light blocking...










The paper is thin enough to allow the light to shine thru quite nicely...










Work was started on the base. 

Using my dremel I carved out a compartment for the battery and slots for the wiring to the DC power jack and slide switch. 
The power jack will allow me to plug in a matching DC power plug. 
5 minute epoxy holds the power jack and wiring in place...










The mounting tube with it's DC power plug. 
I decided on this arrangement since there wasn't enough clearance inside the model with the paper interior in place to have the power jack mounted inside it. 
As it is, there was barely enough room to pass 2 wires under the floor of the passenger cabin into the rear of the model. 
The model will be glued to the mounting tube and having the power plug on the bottom of the mounting tube will allow me to still be able to unplug the model from the base...










For the light test I installed a 5 MM white LED in the Spindrift's ceiling under the dome grill. One 1100mcd LED can light up both cabins as well as the external dome...










You may notice I removed the strips under the passenger cabin windows that I'd installed previously. 
I was having too many fit issues with the paper interior fitting too snug and warping the paper so instead I glued Evergreen angle brackets underneath 
the wood-grain paper counters on the sides of the passenger cabin to make them more rigid.

Light test with the power switched on and the mounting tube inserted thru a hole in the base and into the power jack underneath...










Next up will be cutting styrene sheet to the oval shape of the base and cutting out a door for the battery compartment. 
Then I'll laminate the styrene to the bottom of the base covering up the wiring slots, etc. 
I had to do it this way since I couldn't carve the battery compartment deep enough to have the door panel be recessed into the wooden base; the wood just wasn't thick enough for that. 
Then it'll be time for gluing the model to the brass mounting tube and wiring up the rest of the LEDs in the engine compartment.

*Thanks for reading!*

:thumbsup:


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## Hunch (Apr 6, 2003)

Thats coming along very nice for something so small. Well done.:thumbsup:


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## jlriley51 (Jul 6, 2012)

Coming along quite nicely, definitely going to follow this build.


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## oshkosh619 (Feb 24, 2009)

Outstanding!!!


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## BOXIE (Apr 5, 2011)

Beautiful work on such a small scale.Looking forward to the finished ship.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Thanks for the kind words everyone! 

Got a bit more done since the start of my long holiday...*

Tracing the shape of the base onto a sheet of .040 styrene I layed down some Dymo label tape where the battery compartment door would be...










Usng scribing tools and the tape as a guide I managed to cut out the door without incident. 
Then I used my flexi ruler to guide me as I scribed out the oval along the pencil lines. 
I then applied a liberal amount of Elmer's white glue to the underside of the base and clamped the styrene to the base and let dry while I continued working on the Spindrift.

Here's the base with the styrene glued to the bottom after the clamps were removed...not bad...










It's not pictured but the battery door is held in place with some small machine screws I got at the local ACE hardware store.

On to the Spindrift...

I wanted to hide the wiring from the ceiling LED so I stuck some strips of white reflective tape over them...










Then I glued the passenger cabin in place using some good old 3-IN-1 craft glue. 
You can see the wires poking out from underneath...










These are the LEDs glued into position in the back of the engine compartment.
Clear styrene sheet was used to mount the LEDs into position directly in front of the engine exhaust ports.
I used 4400mcd white LEDs from Radio Shack which give off a lot of light, enough to light up the whole compartment and then some. 
The rear facing LEDs were painted with Testors Italian Red enamel...










Here they are lit up after soldering the wire leads. I used 330 ohm resistors in a parallel circuit...










Another angle on the LEDs. The center forward-faciong LED is a red blinker...










View from the rear showing the engine glow... 










When I put the upper engine hull piece in place it really lit the rear exhaust and front intake vents up nicely with the light pulsating from the red flasher. 
Fortunately, none of the red glow from the rear engine lights affected the pure white light in the passenger and pilot cabins as I feared might happen.

(Cont'd)


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

After sealing up the hull I puttied with AVES Apoxie Scuplt, sanded any rough spots smooth (of which there were hardly any) then applied Tamiya Basic type polyester putty to really smooth out the seams. 
After about an hour I sanded down to about 600 grit and brushed on some Mr Surfacer 1000 just for a little overkill. 
Then I masked the remaining windows, dome grill, and engine vents with Tamiya tape afterwhich I brushed the edges with Future to prevent paint bleed...





































Here she is with the tailfin glued on with Tenax liquid cement...



















Here she is now with a good spray of grey Tamiya fine surface primer. 
Look Ma! No seams or scratches!










I'll let her dry overnight and airbrush her with Testors International Orange tomorrow.

*Thanks for reading along!*


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## Al Loew (Jul 3, 2008)

Really outstanding work on this kit! Thanks for the great updates.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Spindrift, the Sunkist orange of rocket transports!*

*Gave her an airbrushing of International Orange today. Very shiny! 
Just a small speck in front of the starboard passenger window; otherwise, a perfectly smooth finish...*




























*I should be able to pcik off that speck with my dental pick tool. 
Then I'll give her one more light coat of orange. 
Then let her sit for 4-5 days to cure. *


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## Chuck Eds (Jul 20, 2009)

Smoooth! I've used International Orange on both my Spindys and it look just right!


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Wonderful work!
But lordy, don't pick at the speck... wet sand with 1200 or higher grit wet or dry paper.. if you don't break through the color you can polish it out.

You were going to add more paint any way..give it a very gentle color sand. I love Tamiya paint, and you can really make your kit sing..just do some color sanding.









Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

steve123 said:


> Wonderful work!
> But lordy, don't pick at the speck... wet sand with 1200 or higher grit wet or dry paper.. if you don't break through the color you can polish it out.
> 
> You were going to add more paint any way..give it a very gentle color sand. I love Tamiya paint, and you can really make your kit sing..just do some color sanding.
> ...


Good advice and thanks for the tip Steve. I have polishing pads and very fine grit sanding films so I will be doing just as you suggest, once it's completely dry of course which will probably take a week being as glossy and thick as this coat is. To be frank though, that speck is going to be covered by the stripe decal so it's not a major concern to me. After fine sanding I shoud have a supersmooth finish and then I'll hit her with one more very light coat, polish the final orange coat with polishing films, followed by a good coat of clear gloss. Seems a shame to dull the finish down but, once I've decaled her and applied the gloss sealing coat, I want the final finish to be almost dead flat; maybe a slight semigloss but definitely more to the flat side.


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

Sorry man, I feel like a jerk. I thought since you used the tamiya fine white primer you were going for high gloss.
The enamels can be color sanded but they need to be really dry first.
I love the way it looks and your lights are amazing!

Steve


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

steve123 said:


> Sorry man, I feel like a jerk. I thought since you used the tamiya fine white primer you were going for high gloss.
> The enamels can be color sanded but they need to be really dry first.
> I love the way it looks and your lights are amazing!
> 
> Steve


No worries Steve. Actually the fine white primer is on the inside. I used the grey Tamiya primer on the outside. 
I've used Testors enamels for decades; wish they dried as fast as lacquers and acrylics but what can you do? Hurry up and wait is all.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Came up with an idea for painitng the base that should look pretty cool...*

I used a granite counter sample...









and layed overlapping strips of Tamiya masking tape down on it. Then I traced the shape of the top of the oval base onto the tape...









I printed off the Land of the Giants logo and sprayed the backside with 3M adhesive spray and stuck it down onto the tape then started cutting out the shapes and letters with my xacto blade...









*More to come...*


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## steve123 (Feb 9, 2009)

That is lovely! I need two if you want to subcontract.

I love that!

Steve


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## Bobman (Jan 21, 2001)

I'm guessing you are going to sandblast the granite??? Great build!
Bob


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Bobman said:


> I'm guessing you are going to sandblast the granite??? Great build!
> Bob


Sorry Bob but I may have given you the wrong impression. The granite is merely a hard cutting surface for the masking tape. The cut masks will be used to airbrush the logo's yellow and orange colors onto the black wooden base. I do like your idea though.


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## Bobman (Jan 21, 2001)

Your idea is still pretty cool. I used to work in a shop and we sand blasted granite for displays.
Bob


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Update on the base...*

First thing was to gently pry the mask for the black areas away from the granite tile and smoosh it down nice and tight onto the black wooden base:









Orange areas are airbrushed:









After the orange paint has dried the orange masks are prised from the granite and applied. Then yellow enamel is airbrushed over the letters:









Once the masks were removed I could see there was no small amount of paint bleed to deal with. 
After removing as much of the offending paint as I could with a microbrush and paint thinner the letters and black silhouette areas were touched up with a brush:









The painted base after touchup. Still wet. You can see where I added some more details to the left side of the block lettering. 
Once dry, I'll remove the masking tape from around the edge and give it about 3-4 coats of future to seal the paint. Then probably a few shots of Krylon clear satin.









Thanks for reading along.

*Next up... more work on the Spindrift...*


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

This is great!


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## Nova Mike (Apr 26, 2009)

This is a really great build, nice work. thanks for sharing.:wave:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Hey gang! Update for today...*

I really like how the stand is turning out. 
The only thing missing was the name of the ship itself so I took some styrene sheet and made a nameplate. 
I painted it yellow. 
Then I cut some letters out of masking tape and stuck them down: 










Then I coated the whole thing with Future to seal the edges of the tape. 
Then I shot it with grey Tamiya primer.
After the primer dried I shot it with Testors flat black folowed by a coat of Future then a final coat of Krylon Satin acrylic spray. 
I then glued it to the base with CA. 

Here's the finished base:










As far as the Spindrift goes, I removed the engine masks, repainted the front window frames, and carefully painted the engine intake and exhaust grills with Testors aluminum.
Then I shot her with Testors Glosscote as preparation for decaling:



















*Wish me luck folks!*


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

That's looking verrrry Goood!!!!Great work!!


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Well today was spent applying decals and everything was going well. 
I decided early on that it would be easier to apply them in sections especially around the passenger cabin windows. The last decals I applied were the stripes on the tailfin; there were two-one for each side. I cut each into 3 sections. Everything went well except for one thing; a small section of the lower curved portion of the starboard side decal somehow disappeared in the time it took me to remove it from the watersoaked decal paper and transfer it to the model with tweezers. Absolutely incredible! How a piece of a decal can just disappear is beyond my understanding. There was no wind in the garage and as far as I know the decal was intact as it soaked. I tried resoaking the remaining section of curved decal to see if it had folded over on itself but that wasn't it. I looked all over the workbench and in the decal water. Nope. Not there. I checked my hands, arms, shirt, pants, and the floor at my feet. Nothing again. 

So I have all the other decals in placee and drying and here is a section on the tailfin with no stripe. I suppose I could try painting it on but that could be tricky to do without it looking...well...painted on.

Before I resort to that, though, I'm going to contact Moebius and see if they can send me another decal sheet. Hopefully, they aren't too expensive. I don't even need all the decals, just the righthand/starboard side tailfin stripe is all I need and just a small section at that.


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## starmanmm (Mar 19, 2000)

Might be cheaper to just buy another model just for the decal sheet.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

starmanmm said:


> Might be cheaper to just buy another model just for the decal sheet.


Got a reply from Moebius. The decals only run $2.95. I'll be sending them a money order this week.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Trekkriffic said:


> Got a reply from Moebius. The decals only run $2.95. I'll be sending them a money order this week.


That's what I paid for a lost J2 top clear dome! I think they send most replacements for free, and just are really charging you for shipping. What a great company..


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> That's what I paid for a lost J2 top clear dome! I think they send most replacements for free, and just are really charging you for shipping. What a great company..


Yeah. You're probably right. They didn't say anything about shipping charges at all although this should probably be able to go out regular mail so it's the cost of a stamp for them.
They really do a great job with products and customer service. I fully expected to wait a few more days for a reply. And the price is very reasonable.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Well I got a response from Moebius today. They got my payment and the decals were mailed out last Friday. So I shouldl have them later this week and be able to finish decaling and applying finishing coats this weekend!
:thumbsup:


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Trekkriffic said:


> Yeah. You're probably right. They didn't say anything about shipping charges at all although this should probably be able to go out regular mail so it's the cost of a stamp for them.
> They really do a great job with products and customer service. I fully expected to wait a few more days for a reply. And the price is very reasonable.


I'd hate to think what some of the other model companies would have charged. It's one thing to buy something and not have a crucial component in the box (or be damaged) which I guess should be replaced for free, but another to admit you messed something up or lost a piece and have the manufacturer be reasonable about replacing it!

Moebius is a small operation, so I would guess that a situation like that would have a tiny "minimum" fee attached to take care of not only the postage, but the wages they pay to the person to track down the part and ship it to you. I know recently I needed some large Flying Sub parts, and they wanted part numbers and descriptions -- I just scanned in the instruction sheets, went into photoshop, and drew a big circle around each part I needed. I had screwed up the parts, and told them up front, and the replacement fee was nominal to say the least!

I do know that Frank told me a while back that if they don't have a "spare" part for a customer, they will crack open a new kit, and that's where the spare parts come from. It's not like they order extra pieces of clear plastic parts for sci-fi kits and such. So maybe if one person gets a clear J2 dome, and a week later someone else needs an astrogator, and then later someone needs a cryo-tube wall, and then someone needs two cryo tubes, after a while it hopefully recoupes the cost of the kit.

Either way, there is nothing like good customer service!

--Henry


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

g_xii said:


> Either way, there is nothing like good customer service!
> 
> --Henry


*Amen to that! Got home from work and there was an envelope in the mailbox from Moebius. I know you don't visit here anymore but thanks a lot anyway Frank!*


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

Trekkriffic said:


> *Amen to that! Got home from work and there was an envelope in the mailbox from Moebius. I know you don't visit here anymore but thanks a lot anyway Frank!*


Yep -- they are usually pretty quick to send out replacement parts. Glad to know you got yours quickly so we can see the final product when you are done with it!

--Henry


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## bert model maker (Feb 19, 2002)

Moebius is a very customer friendly company and Frank jumps through hoops to make sure the customer is happy and THIS is what makes a company successful and long lasting. THANK YOU FRANK & MOEBIUS MODELS EMPLOYEES. !
BERT:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Well she's all finished. Here are a few pics...

Spindrift On A Stick... *










*Gotta quit hittin' the bottle...*










*I'll post some more pics in the morning, assuming you guys want to see more. There is also a video I need to upload to YouTube.*


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## Mark Dorais (May 25, 2006)

Really impressive build and painting. The stand is outstanding!!!:tongue:


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Excellent.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*Here are more pics with her lit up on the base...*


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*More pics...*


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)




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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)




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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

*And the video!*


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Like I said, Excellent my friend!!!

(just wish it was 1/32,1/35 scale!!).


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## fortress (Apr 1, 2006)

Trekkriffic said:


>


Fantastic Job Trekkriffic!!! 

Now this is why I love modeling soo much, this is yet another 
example of how even in this era of advanced technology there
are still things that people are better at than machines.

Being creative will never go out of style or favor. Thanks for the
reminder of this and the great posts Trekkriffic.

Perhaps after looking at great work like this and the interest that
Land of the Giants still holds maybe Moebius should do a rethink 
about not doing a 1/32 scale Spindy, 2014 would not be a bad 
year for that at all.

fortress


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Professional and beautiful. This is the one. And I love that base! CRAZY!


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## Tiberious (Nov 20, 2001)

Amazing job. Love the clean lines, your base, and your lighting solution for such a small model! Top notch!

Tib


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Captain Han Solo said:


> Like I said, Excellent my friend!!!
> 
> (just wish it was 1/32,1/35 scale!!).


Thanks Captain. I have the larger Polar Lights kit in my stash.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

fortress said:


> Fantastic Job Trekkriffic!!!
> 
> Now this is why I love modeling soo much, this is yet another
> example of how even in this era of advanced technology there
> ...


Thanks for the compliment fortress. I would love to build something in styrene close to the 40 inch studio model someday.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

kdaracal said:


> Professional and beautiful. This is the one. And I love that base! CRAZY!


Thank you sir. Yes, I'm quite proud of the base; it really took this build to another level if I do say so myself.


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Tiberious said:


> Amazing job. Love the clean lines, your base, and your lighting solution for such a small model! Top notch!
> 
> Tib


Your praise means a lot. Thank you sir!


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## scifimodelfan (Aug 3, 2006)

Absolutely beautiful, great job love it.


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## gerald p (Aug 6, 2008)

Thanx for this, I couldn't have asked for a better, more thorough build document than this and @ a better time as I just purchased this kit over the weekend.....This will be a great help...thanks again ! Jerry.


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## OzyMandias (Dec 29, 2004)

Seconded! I just bought this kit last week. I hope I can give it the same sort of love that Trekkriffic has lavished on his. 

I left a comment on your YouTube page, wonderful work!


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## g_xii (Mar 20, 2002)

OzyMandias said:


> Seconded! I just bought this kit last week. I hope I can give it the same sort of love that Trekkriffic has lavished on his.
> 
> I left a comment on your YouTube page, wonderful work!


 
Anyone interested in a custom light kit for this? I'm about to order one for myself and it's just as easy (and maybe cheaper!) to order a few over just one. It will feature 2 modes:

MODE 1 -- crash site with the pulsing dome and intake/exhaust along with some blue lighting for the cockpit and white for the cabin for the back-lit passenger cabin pieces with resin window sils.

MODE 2 -- flight mode, featuring super fast exhaust flashing combined with constant on, intake lighting, dome lighting, cabin (blue) lighting and passenger cabin (white) lights, again designed to take advantage of the back-lit passenger cabin images and window sils.

It is an EXTREMELY tiny 1" x 1" circuit board, with a ribbon cable connected to 8 3mm LEDs. The mode switch will toggle between modes 1 and 2. Power will come from 9v battery. All of this should fit neatly within the space for the cabin. 

Price looks to be $36 plus shipping, but if I can get a few folks to order, we could likely get it down to $33.00. 

This unit will be ENTIRELY Plug and play. All you will need to do is tape up the LED's to the inside of the model, and stick it all in the model with a 9v battery (not included). It's going to be a really cool light kit with a lot of animation!

This is not something I am selling on my website, so email or PM me if you want one and I'll send you a paypal invoice.

--Henry


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## drmcoy (Nov 18, 2004)

fantastic! thanks for sharing all the pics. love the base!


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## fortress (Apr 1, 2006)

I really hope that in the near future there is a rethink 
about this subject it's a crime to not have this in a larger
scale.

Fortress

"there I said it", now bring on the firing squad and my keystone pizza".


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## Chrisisall (May 12, 2011)

fortress said:


> I really hope that in the near future there is a rethink
> about this subject it's a crime to not have this in a larger
> scale.


1:12 would be really cool.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Bloody amazing! :thumbsup: I bet this project makes you feel like a BIG man :tongue:


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

fortress said:


> I really hope that in the near future there is a rethink
> about this subject it's a crime to not have this in a larger
> scale.
> 
> ...





"Does Monsieur wish a blindfold?" I agree! :thumbsup:


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## RMC (Aug 11, 2004)

*spindrift*

Originally Posted by fortress 
I really hope that in the near future there is a rethink 
about this subject it's a crime to not have this in a larger
scale.

amen !


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

Excellent work(as usual Trek!).:thumbsup:


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## Trekkriffic (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks guys! It was a treat to see this old thread resurrected. 

I'd really like to see a buildup thread of one of these kits using the TSDS lighting kit Henry refers to above. Sounds like quite a feat to be able to shoehorn all that stuff into a palm-sized model.


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