# Revell....Resistance X Wing



## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Absolutely Fantastic entry level kits! I believe these kits are a great door way into the hobby of a bigger world, everyone to the first time building a model to the novice modeler. On my youtube channel I did review the kits http://https://youtu.be/QKt7uWBOYWw

As a Modeler I wanted to build this kit and starting the black x wing I began. The Revell snaptite X Wings are roughly 1/48 scale. First thing I did when I pulled the parts out of the box gave them a wash with soapy water and air dried, Then shot a coat of primer on the parts so i can have a blank canvas to start with.

The kit is basically ABS plastic and all model glues should be compatable so I Took some scrap styrene and filled in the speaker holes and landing gear bay doors on the bottom of the Fuselage. The cockpit house housing was cut in half and the electronics removed and recessed the cockpit deeper into the fuselage so the addition of a 1/48 scale pilot will fit.


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

sg-99,
Finally someone agrees with how I feel!! I got this kit on Friday, and I fell in love with it! It has great panel lines, accurate shape, crystal clear canopy, and the cockpit,has nice detail too. I'm converting a small 1/48 Airfix pilot, and using the cockpit tub from an old Monogram F-86, mated up with the panel details provided in the Revell kit to make mine. Also, I cut the canon barrels off at the thickest part near the rear and rotated them so the 'c' shaped thing is vertical, not horizontal as molded. Can't wait to see what you do with this, very excited!
Mike


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## yorkie (Dec 9, 2002)

Can't agree about the shape being that accurate. Attached is a picture of the side profile of the kit out of the box. The canopy is way too large and the fuselage is too deep. It's a great toy though.

On the Starship Modeler site the designer from Revell said it is 1/58 scale, and the 1/78 stated on the box is incorrect. Revell are also bringing out a level 2 version of the kit in October that looks a bit sleeker so I think that may be the better model. No electronic parts either.

Looking forward to your build.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Test fitting the main parts and debating whether to light the kit. On the hull there is three unwanted circle detail, this is easily removed with a micro chisel and sandpaper.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

The laser tip cannons in the snap kit are molded horizontal and they need to be in a vertical position. The easiest way is to cut them and use telescoping styrene tube cut to length and reapply.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Now I got all four cannons with telescoping styrene tube and the tips going vertical in the correct position.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Lookin good!


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

On the kit's laser cannons there is two type of holes for the wings mounting studs, one big and one small. on the cannons I filled in two large and small holes in sets with Aves Apoxie sculpt.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I'm leaving the BB-8 droid painted as he is, all he needs is a simple wash to bring out the droid details and i will do that later when I am in the painting stage. With tamiya tape I masked off the droid and Resistance X-Wing canopy burnished the canopy corners with a blunt number two pencil to keep any paint bleed away.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Decided to light the kit, the engines will consist of 4 3mm orange leds and a couple of cool white for the cockpit control panel and I will recess the led farther in the engine right now just getting the holes drilled to fish the wires through and testing the led.


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## Dyonisis (Nov 11, 2009)

That damned thing is so ugly I just want to fill it with pyro det cord, and blow it to hell! I'd add a stick to it so that I could film spinning around on a motor in front of a forest background before it blew. :tongue:

~ Chris​


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With a pin vise started drilling some holes in the cockpit control panel so it can be lit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Getting the other side of the console drilled out for lighting.


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

What color LEDs are you using in the cockpit? I love the effect.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Green and cool white led is used for the cockpit.

Took a drill bit and counter sunk the engines so I can recess the 3mm orange leds into the engines. Next up will be getting the wires tidy up and fuselage assembled.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got the wires all tidy up and the fuselage together. Got he X wing on a standard PL universal dome base fished the battery wire to the bottom of the base and everything runs off a 9volt battery. Next some Tulip will be used to hide any light leaks in the cockpit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Since I modified the cockpit to accommodate a figure I took a 1/48 scale navy pilot from the ol' parts box shaved off the uniform with my hobby knife and with Aves Apoxie sculpt and my sculpting tool (a toothpick) sculpted the Force awakens Resistance style flight suit.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got the re-sculpted pilot in the cockpit, for the legs I just Aves apoxie sculpt and sculpted some legs that can be seen with a little detail on them. Next is to add some busy detail in the cockpit with some styrene tube and strip. 

For the engine wires on the wings I did not want to cut a channel in the wings , lay down the wire and putty over. A simple way I am going is to cut some thin styrene strip to cover the wires and also give some extra detail.


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## Bwain no more (May 18, 2005)

I have been following this build for a bit, and it is looking REALLY cool! Reminds me of a conversion I did on the old ROTJ snap X-Wing issued in '83.
Not sure why Revell chose to leave the pilots out of these new kits, but from my POV it makes putting a nicely molded pilot figure in the cockpit that much easier. Maybe someone on Shapeways will offer a pilot or even replacement guns and landing gear for some of these Revell offerings. :thumbsup:
Tom


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got he cockpit painted a medium grey color and added a dark grey almost black wash all around the cockpit. The pilot was painted standard orange X wing flight suit and white chest harness, next I painted the details markings that go on the The new Resistance pilot helmets.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

When I paint cockpits and pilots of any genre I personally don't do a lot of detail painting as I do more filter washes and drybrushing for the detail, there is always shadows present which also gives detail as well. Took a drop of super glue and attached the canopy, had a fine line seam on the fuselage and used Tulip fabric paint to fill in the gap and shot the entire model in a couple coats of primer. Next up will be some Pre-shading.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Cool cool!


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## wander1107 (Aug 12, 2006)

sg-99 said:


> When I paint cockpits and pilots of any genre I personally don't do a lot of detail painting as I do more filter washes and drybrushing for the detail, there is always shadows present which also gives detail as well. Took a drop of super glue and attached the canopy, had a fine line seam on the fuselage and used Tulip fabric paint to fill in the gap and shot the entire model in a couple coats of primer. Next up will be some Pre-shading.


Great build. How pliable is Tulip fabric paint? Can it be sanded? It's looks kind of rubbery.

AeroMedSsg


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Tulip paint is not sandable, it is just a nice quick easy filler where regular putty would be a pain to do. Also with tulip you can fill the hairline seams, wipe way with a damp cloth and shoot a couple coats of primer on and it blends in well with model.


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

That is a fantastic idea, I have to try it. Your progress is looking great! Mine is almost done, no lighting, but a simple weathering paint job. It's been a lot of fun! Would you mind if I do a small thread on it? I have a few progress shots I took of the interior and pilot - I just don't want to step on your toes, so to speak, as I respect what you're doing - Especially the lighting! 
Mike


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

By all means share away! Sharing model WIP's, tips and tricks is what this hobby is all about!


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

Thank you Sir! I will. Hope you like my work!


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Preshading the Resistance X wing with the airbrush is by no means a right or wrong way to do it, basically you are just outlining the panel lines and other areas to create depth before you apply the base coat. A lot of modelers like to use black or a dark grey for preshading I like to use transparent paint when I do it , I believe it gives it a more realistic tone when the base coat is applied.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the Base coat I am using Tamiya Royal light grey mix with flat white. I want to replicate the darker panels first like in the up close shot in the Force for change video, Then I will lighten up the lighter panels.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

:recant:


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Really like the detail and care you are putting into this.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Masking duty begins- After I got the base coat applied I went back over the model with Krylon crystal clear just to seal the model and once dry I can tape up the X wing for the blue stripe without fear of pulling up any paint caused my the Tamiya masking tape. Got all the areas masked off for the blue and if I understand the wing identification markings I am painting mine up as blue two.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

sg-99 said:


> Masking duty begins- After I got the base coat applied I went back over the model with Krylon crystal clear just to seal the model and once dry I can tape up the X wing for the blue stripe without fear of pulling up any paint caused my the Tamiya masking tape. Got all the areas masked off for the blue and if I understand the wing identification markings I am painting mine up as blue two.


If you use a good primer, pulling up paint is not really a concern. Especially with Tamiya masking tape. It's good.


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Got my POE's toy x-wing by Revell today. Thanks to your excellent WIP - I decided to get one and while I will not spend quite as much effort as you have - what you did with the cockpit was inspirational.

Very inspirational.

But I decided against spending as much time on this toy while we wait to see if I can obtain a Bandai T-70 or await the Level 2 kit from Revell.

I love what you did with the cockpit. However, I do want to keep the sound effects as this is more a toy than a model kit - but I do want to create an illusion of better accuracy. The pilot chair sitting like it does really bothers me. So I am going to carve out the bottom of the chair to create the illusion the seat is lower.

I'll also correct the antennae guns and do a more accurate paint job with some weathering. Just know your WIP is reaching some of us out here with some great ideas.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

When I mask I usually do it in sections, this way you don't have the whole model covered in tape and it is easier to manage. Using Tamiya flat blue I airbrushed on and around 10 psi keeping the blue light (which will help in weathering) to have a faded look. Next is to mask off the bottom wings and the top of the nose section for the next round of blue.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

again with Tamiya tape and a sharp #11 X-acto blade masked off the bottom wings and stripe for the top of the fuselage.


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

Looking fantastic, that paint job is gonna be amazing!


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

After I got the majority of the blue on I went back and shot some krylon crystal clear to protect what I have done so far, next is to mask off the wings again for the grey stripes markings that the Resistance X wings use and With a fine tip paint brush and Tamiya flat blue painted the engine stripes to finish of the blue segment.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I am going to start weathering and first I wanted to chip the paint and give the extra worn look. There is no right or wrong way to chip paint on a model, there are so many ways from hairspray to a paint brush. I like to keep it simple and use a Scotch Brite heavy duty scrub sponge. cut the sponge with a pair of scissors, make little applicator dip the sponge in paint dab off the excess on a paper towel and gardually build up the chip paint on your model. never use straight up sivler or a light metallic color , for a more realistic look darken up the base coat and add a hint of lighter metallic for a combo of effect. For my X wing I am using Vallejo Steel and basalt grey for paint chipping.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

As I continue to chip paint and weather the X wing I took some thinned down neutral grey for the wings three grey stripes for the faded worn look.


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

sg99,
Your idea of using the scrubby pad to apply paint chips is brilliant! Thanks for the tip


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the rear and top plate (that BB-8 droid sits in) instead of painting them I went with a couple of filter washes for the base coat and a very light dry brushing with some Vallejo Natural steel to bring out the highlights.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Finally after everything painted and weathered I went back in with airbrush and Liqutex black ink and blended everything together with some more faint weathering and to darken up a few areas and sealed everything with Testors dull coat. 

The Build and play kits are excellent kits! These entry level kits are like the Force they bind the modeling world together, from Novice modeler to seasoned veteran modeler these kits are a excellent way to bring modelers into a much bigger World of model building.
Brad Hair


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

Sir,
The Force is with you! Looks great, I'm glad I'm not the only one who loves these little kits! After seeing the blue stripes on your birds wings, I realize I should have done that to, so back to the workbench it goes.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

A look at the Level 2 kit https://youtu.be/fCcZnx3m0VM
and build will begin shortly:thumbsup:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

The level two Resistance X wing is great, scale is 1/50 so 1/48 scale equipment and accessories will work just fine with the kit. Detail is sharp and soft in some areas which is not a big deal, extra detail can always be added. I am going to repaint the entire kit but first I wanted to light this version as well, so with a pin vise drilled some holes in the front cockpit and tub side wall area so I can fish some fiber optic through it, green, blue and red leds will light the control surfaces.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

after drilling the cockpit with the pin vise (and breaking many drill bits I might add) I cut some fiber optics strands around three inches long and with five minute epoxy got them attached. Testing out a 1/48 WW2 pilot out of the parts box (which will be resculpted) and since I already did a male pilot on the smaller build and play version this go around will be either a alien or female resistance X wing Pilot.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

If your going to light up the engines you will have to cut off some of the locator pins. Next I drilled out the engine exhausts to accommodate the orange 3mm leds and after the very little modification is done I will five minute epoxy the leds in.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With the simple mod to the engine, 3mm orange led epoxied in and a light test.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the wiring of the engines through the wings you can either Dremel out a channel in the wings, lay the wire in it and putty over it so I took a more simpler rout and fished the wires through the wings and used Tamiya tape to hide the wires. Also I will use the Tamiya tape to make so extra detail inside the X wing wings. Any type of tape is a great scratchbuilding material for models, it is a another way to add detail.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

After adding some tape detail to the inside of the wings, I went in and tidy up the wires, took some heat shrink tube and consolidated the fiber optics with 3mm cool white and green leds and with some liquid electrical tape brushed on any expose wire. After that dried I finally was able to get the fuselage halves together and I must say the fit of the kit is excellent! Once the parts snap into place they will not come apart. With the fuselage together I took my Xuron sprue cutters and trimmed down the fiber optics that were protruding in the cockpit to make them flush with the instrument panel.


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

Sg-99,
This is awesome! I'm looking forward to getting this one as well, can't wait to see how yours comes out!


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Bear with me I am going to jump around on the x wing as I need to do some minor putty work on the engines and some light blocking. There are four curved pipe pieces that go on the engines and of course I lost one on the floor, heard it hit and know it is lost forever. Replacing it is very simple I used Plastuct styrene coated wire to create the lost pipe. and jumping around I masked off the grey identification stripes on the wings, I want to use the prepainted colors and also use them as guide for when I repaint the ship. Starting with the bottom shot it with a rattle can primer specifically Iron Armor primer which I think is the best primer that actually bites into the plastic and and is very smooth when applied.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Figure duty- The stating point on the figure is a 1/48 WW2 pilot from the spares box, with a sharp #11 hobby knife and some sandpaper i removed the detail. Next did a first pass of sculpting the resistance pilot with Aves Apoxie sculpt, getting the helmet, vest chest box and new left arm. After this dries I will go back in with some Aves and blend everything together including adding folds in the clothes.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Test fitting the new pilot in the X Wing cockpit, had to trim a little off the elbows and he sits flush in the cockpit. I am going to get the cockpit and pilot painted so I can get the canopy on and masked off so I can shoot some primer on it. Also test fitted the canopy, had to cut off the tabs on canopy that makes it movable and to have a more secure fit when I glue the canopy down. When assembling the kit there is no need for putty because the fit is excellent on the kit. I had to add a little bit of putty around the engines due to me adding 5 minute epoxy to the engines for the leds and didn't get it clamp down good enough. So I mixed up some two part red putty and applied to the minor areas, once dry I will wet sand and continue on....


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Excellent SG. You were the inspiration for me to get the Poe X-wing from Revell and make it shine with some proper weathering, though I have not entered the arena of lighting kits yet, and may wait until I get my skills back up in modeling after a 25 year hiatus before I try something new like that.

Are you planning on building the Revell Level 2 or 3 kits? I just read that Revell is going to re-issue the Fine-Molds SW kits as part of their 'Master Series'.

Given the joy I am experiencing in building the Bandai kits - it might seem like a step down to go the Revell route - but I never built a Fine Molds model.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

For the novice or experience builder who wants to light a model I like to push the plug and play light kits or I will give a plug here http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ pre wired leds.

The x Wing I'm building is the level 2 kit not the build and play as I have built that earlier in the thread. I will most likely not build the master series kits, since they are repackage of the Finemold kits I will end up collecting them truth be told.

There is never a step down in model building even if building a lesser kit! :thumbsup:


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## INVAR (Mar 28, 2014)

Thanks for the link SG….. I think. Now I am contemplating taking my first step into a larger world…. and maybe messing with lighting the Bandai Y-wing.

Well… if not the Y-wing, then I have the T-70 coming from Bandai next month.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Wet sanded the red putty areas where I applied, west sanding consists of a cup or bowl of water, your sand paper or sanding stick. Just dip the sand paper or stick sand in a circular motion and the water will keep the sanding dust off and give you a smoother finish. If you don't have electronics in your model you can take it to a sink wet sand while running water. After sanding i had a little hair line seam and did not want to use more putty that is where Tulip comes in hand. You just apply the tulip with a spatula or finger wipe away the excess, smooth out with water and fill nooks, cracks, seams where putty would not work into those hard to reach places on the model.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Masking the canopy- before I mask any clear parts I like to wash them and give them a wipe down with alcohol, keeps the parts clean of any specks (particles) when the tape is applied. I use Tamiya tape to mask the canopy, first I rub the tape down with my finger and with a sharp knife cut out the mask then with a blunt #2 pencil I burnish down the edges to eliminate any bleed that seep through. I usually dip any canopy first in Future then tape but this time I am going to do it backwards.

In the inside of the wings there are two holes that is for the landing gear feature. It is a easy fix to cover up the holes by using Evergreen styrene strip cut up some squares, glue down and it also gives it some added extra detail to the inside wing area.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Painting the figure, I think the Resistance pilot suits are a more re-orange than the old orange suits seen in the OT. Vallejo red and orange was mixed up for the base coat of the suit, once dry I will go back in with white and paint the vest, helmet etc.... I am going to leave the prepainted cockpit and add some washes to it just to make it have depth and will let the shadows take care of any missing detail.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With a fine paint brush added some Resistance style markings to the helmet, Added a couple of rounds of washes to the figure and cockpit. I used The Detailer black and grey wash, it is a already to use wash, apply, let it dry and wipe off the with a wet/damp cloth or with a paint brush. I like to use the detailer on projects as it gives a different shade effect than thin acrylics paint and oil washes. Next is to finish out the cockpit and get the canopy glued down and I wanted everyone to see before I close it up.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Put a satin finish on the pilot and cockpit area and got the canopy glued down. Primer duty begins and I have probably said it before I use Iron Armor primer rattle can primer, Harbor Freight sells it and I like this primer as it adheres to the styrene and takes paint very well.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Can you take a side shot of the model so the fuselage detail can be seen now that you have primer down? Also, any chance you could post your pictures a bit larger resolution? Kinda hard to see.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I will see what i can do.

After a couple of coats of primer went back in with some Tulip and filled in a wing gap That I missed the first go around. When the Tulip dries I will shoot one coat of primer and everything will be ready for paint.


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## mcusanelli (Apr 13, 2011)

Looks great! i just ordered mine this morning!


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## apls (Dec 5, 2005)

This is very impressive, I was about to write this kit off because of the words "Build and Play", but I see what it could be in the hands of a Master, a tip of the hat to sg-99!!!!!


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

First....This is an observation NOT an attack on ONE person and not 
against Sg99 himself.

You do very good work, are very detail oriented and I sulute you.
In the past you have stated and I quote...... "I do love the compliments, any way I can help out fellow modelers with tips, tricks and builds or get new modelers introduce into the hobby is the greatest compliment of all!"

Ok...cool.....but in that thread nor this one have you once replied and actually 
said thank you to ANY of compliments given.

Its about common courtesy....im sorry but while out in public, shopping etc
its just that in the past few years I have seen the most basic and commonly used
pleasantries just fade way. .... almost completely.

The fact that I 'seem' to the only one a bit annoyed or have noticed is a tad more disturbing. ....I know its only model building and some more passionate 
about our craft than others.....but what is wrong with a little fun, random silliness....if not a THANK YOU....when someone says "Nice work" or "Very cool!"


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

I stand by my statement! I understand and totally agree the less use of courtesy through daily life, I too see it less and less. 

When I use to compete in model contests, in the judging criteria there is line in there that I like to use when I am on the model forums " When the modeler puts a model on the table he or she has placed." to me I love this statement it is the biggest compliment when a modeler shows their work to modelers and the general public.

Onto the X wing......I got X wing all primer up, once dry starting from the bopttom up and a first pass I began preshading, I like to use inks when preshading and like to use more dark greys to highlight the panels and and makes a nice shadow effect when the base coat is applied.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With some black Dr. Martins ink I went back in some recess areas and preshaded them in side the wings, around the wings engines etc... and where more grime may accumulate.


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## fluke (Feb 27, 2001)

Cool! a P-47 and a X-wing.....sir your ok with me :wave:


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Base coat- On the Build and play version I used Tamiya light grey mixed with white, on this version I went with Model Master Light ghost grey airbrushed in very thin light coats as to let the preshading show through. Once dry i will mix some whit in to the base coat and airbrush some highlights on the center of the panels on the X wing.


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## PixelMagic (Aug 25, 2004)

Are there any panel lines at all on the side of the fuselage? I can't see any in the pics.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

There is panels line on the fuselage hull.

There is not enough hours in the day but I did get the laser cannons on. I will keep these removable for ease of transport, selling or storage. Next arbrushing the base on the cannons and again once dry I will add some white to the base coat and lighten the color up and of course weathering.


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## jaws62666 (Mar 25, 2009)

Looking great. I just got some led Christmas lights, and I want to use them to light a kit. Can anyone tell me if it is possible to wire an on and off switch to it so I can turn the lights on and off 
There is a switch already on the box itself but it is not able to be used externally. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

it can be done, but I prefer simple and if any modeler that wants to jump into the world of lighting I recommend plug in play kits or pre-wired leds and I will give a plug here http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/

I always suggest the prewire leds for modelers that want to light a kit just to get the feel for it and satisfaction of lighting a model rather than discouragement from wiring the leds from scratch.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Masking Duty- I am at point now where I need to get the blue painted areas on so I can finish up the filters and washes and final weathering. Tamiya tape is used mask everything and a blunt #2 pencil will be used to burnish the tape down, This go around I am going to give this X wing a blue nose that is depicted on the box art.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Tamiya Flat blue is what i use for the blue areas of the Resistance X wing same as the build and play i did earlier. I thin the blue down almost transparent witch helps give more realistic faded worn look. One thing about Tamiya paint is I like to use a home brew thinner, and I use this on all acrylic paint by various companies. Genesis Models on youtube has a great tutorial of the brew That i use to thin acrylic paints. https://youtu.be/T8k3BJC80IQ


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

getting the blue on the wings applied.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got all the Tamiya tape removed which consisted an hour to apply, twenty seconds to paint and less than ten seconds to take off. Next up with airbrush will be some Model Master Duck egg blue to lighten up the light grey areas o\f the hull and wings.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Second to last of taping duty is the droid socket area and the back of the ship, a metallic grey will be airbrushed at a low setting and a wash and some dry brushing to bring out the detail.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Still need to mask off the canopy frame but i did manage to get the (what I like to call them) nose stripes masked off.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Resistance X wing on display at Singapore, never can have enough reference material and I notice I have to add the blue stripe all the way to the back of the fuselage.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Some cockpit reference for the Incom T70 X wing.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Got the last of the painting done on the X wing, the blue for the nose stripes and Tamiya metallic grey for the canopy frame, engine intakes and thrusters and the rear and droid socket areas.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

With some black ink I did one more pass of weathering with the airbrush.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Finally on the home stretch shot the X Wing with Testors Dull Coat, next some washes, dry brushing and some light paint chipping. With that up next I removed the canopy tape and always with a lighted models check the lights.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Finishing up some little details I am down to the droid and I ether want to go ahead and put the BB8 style droid or put a R2 unit that was seen in the Disney featurette.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

My original plan was to use a old MPC R2 unit droid but I would have to rework it to fit the socket. A finemold R2 unit will fit better but I did not want rob a complete kit for the droid, so most likely I will us the Kit provided BB8 droid.


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## sg-99 (Jan 11, 2009)

Went ahead and put the BB8 droid in the socket and add a black wash on the prepainted droid just to give the little guy some depth. One thing I love about model building is any kit can be revisited, to add or take away and with that in mind I will add a regular R2 unit to the Resistance x wing when I acquire and extra droid. The Revell level 2/Snaptite Max series kits are a blast to do either build them straight out of the box and just adding some little weathering or completely repainting and add extra detail to it, either way fantastic kits and highly recommended to any modeler!

Brad Hair


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## spock62 (Aug 13, 2003)

You did a fine job on this kit. Looks much better then the "pre-decorated" version out of the box.


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