# Bride of Frankenstein Table Directions



## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Gentlemen - (Who walked in?)
No, seriously - I want to construct the bride with the table upright like it is on the box lid. I KNOW some of you guys were successful in doing this. How about a step-by-step if you would be so kind??? Thanks! The Ultimate Computer.


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Is there anybody out there? Hello? is this microphone on? Thanks!


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## Roy Kirchoff (Jan 1, 1970)

I'm also waiting for an answer.

RK


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

you can probably find some plastruct or evergreen plastic stock to try and match the shape of the kit stuff . then i would cut off the the end of the curved part and glue it to the curved part on the other side(on both pieces , of course ) . 
then use your plastic stock to fill in any gaps left in the wider plastic of the supports . 
i've thought about doing this too but haven't . maybe the next time i build one .... 
i know i saw one on this BB and it looked really nifty .
hb


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

AWWWWW, C'mon Guys! All I need is for some planetary supermind/Bride of Frankenstein afficianado (sp?) to dig back in their superior intellect and share with one or two of us great unwashed how to construct a table that stands. Or maybe you can't do it at all! Yeah, that's it! You don't know how! You're hiding! (That might do the trick!)


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

I'm looking at my "Bride" right now, and what I see so far is:
A) It needs dusted badly. B) I have to re-do the lousy job on the face. C) There are holes molded in the table support for no apparent reason..... BUT..THAT may be your salvation !
DO NOT do this without planning ahead, it may be a lousy idea. But, it may also get you to a 45* angle at least.
Find some sprue parts shaped like an "L". Cut off the "arc" pieces supporting the table. Glue the L pieces under the table at the edges, having the "L" face inward, and through those seemingly useless holes. That may be your pivot-point to raise the table about 45*. You may have to adjust your chains somewhat to compensate. Or actually replace them with new metal chain.
Mull this over before making any drastic cuts or completely ruining your model. IF such happens, I have no recollection of ever having heard of you, or this BB !! All complaints must be made through our central office in New York !!
OK, so at least I'm thinking !!


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

well , there's 2 ideas for ya so far . i guess the guys that have actually done it are waiting for cash offers lol .
ya might try posting over at the clubhouse BB . a lot of figure modellers hang out there .
hb


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Bless ye, gentle souls! (I guess the "Bride" is passe' at this stage of the game.) Thanks for both sets of input! Anyone have pix? Thanks! :wave:


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

here's a pic ( hopefully ) of one . 
http://plmodels3.tripod.com/riojas.htm 
masterfully modified by Steve Riojas .
hb


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## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Holy Crap!!!!


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Now, THAT is a Bride! Probably the best example I've ever seen. I guess no one has ever produced a better example?


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

did ya notice , he cut the stone base away from the table base ? 
though the table is tilted it's not too severe an angle . but it does look like you could go just a bit more upright with out too much more surgery .
that is a sweet dio.
hb


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

OH CRAP !! After seeing that I'm gonna burn mine !!


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

I still think Markenstein's build-up is the Gold-standard against which all other build-ups must be judged. I wish his how-to page was still around!

For the table, you probably simply need to rebuild the table legs altogether to get it to swing in an upright position. Bring the base pieces with you and match up the correct thickness of Evergreen strip. Rebuild the table legs with the added height and provision for either having the table top in the upright position or to allow it to pivot from flat to upright. Hey. It's what model-makers _do_!


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## Frankie Boy (Feb 28, 2002)

Are there any postable photos of, or a link to, any of Markenstein's work, particularily the Bride of Frankenstein to which you refer?


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

'Stein's is one of the best paint jobs i've seen on it . but the table lays flat . 
the nifty thing with his was his seamless job on the clear bottles . 
hb


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

Weird. I've been on Google for half an hour and can't dig anything up! Looks like he and the build-up dropped off the face of the Earth! It should really be in the Model Museum!
I'm pretty sure I've got some pix from Chiller years ago. I'm going to have to pull those out. I recall they may have been a tad blurry. But I'll check. I know I've got the text describing how he worked the lab ware to get a seamless effect. I have it on my computer at home. I'll see aobut posting them when I get off work.


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

Okay, all I have are 2 not-so-large pix from the Chiller 2000 show.
They are on this page .
Wish I had some clearer pix!

Markenstein! Where are you?!


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

This is getting better and better!


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## Ignatz (Jun 20, 2000)

Here's a transcript of the post concerning Markenstein's procedure for finishing the labware:
Markenstein's Labware Procedure 

I hope it helps and inspires.

Markenstein, if you're still around: if this copy of the transcript really bugs you, let me know and I'll take it down.


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## Drag Monster (Oct 15, 2003)

Here is a couple of photos of mine, no modifications to the kit other than I replaced the chains with real chains.


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## DR. PRETORIOUS (Nov 1, 2000)

Excellent job!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Otto69 (Jan 2, 2004)

I gotta get me one or two of these kits...


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## the Dabbler (Feb 17, 2005)

Now THAT'S the kind of work MY Bride's face needs !!! Nice job all around !!


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

nice work Drag ! 
hb


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Incredible work! What size chains did you use and where would one go to find them? Thanks! Any more from anyone else?


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

Thrush , i changed out my kit chains also . i got 'em at Hobby Lobby .probably can be had at any good craft store .
hb


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## Otto69 (Jan 2, 2004)

Chains and various other nifty metal thingies are used a lot in model shipbuilding. Check out the model-ships aisle of your local hobbyshop (though some stuff is kept under lock and key at front counters).


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## Zorro (Jun 22, 1999)

Drag Monster said:


> Here is a couple of photos of mine, no modifications to the kit other than I replaced the chains with real chains.


_Very_ nice steam effect on the large beaker. Any tips on how you achieved that? All these photos are making me want to get another Bride kit and start all over again. _Definitely_ my favorite Aurora monster kit.


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## Mike Warshaw (Feb 23, 1999)

Markenstein's directions:


Well here's how I did it.

First I dremeled off, from the inside of the bottles, all the locating pins, holes and flange that the pins and holes are on. I also ground off all the ejector pin marks. You also want to open up the tops of the bottles so you can get your syringe in them later. Then I sanded smooth the insides of the bottle. Then using Novus 3 step polish, I polished the insides of the bottles don't forget the edges). At this point they are almost perfectly smooth and clear. Next I coated the insides with Future Floor wax. This stuff is great. Future removes all tiny scratches and imperfections and leaves a smooth glassy (that's what were looking for) surface.

Now it's time to glue the halves together, harder than it sounds because you removed your locating pins. I used Testors glue. Use it sparingly (so none runs down the insides of the bottle), but use enough so that it seals the bottle. Clamp the bottle and give plenty time to dry. I used Testors because it dries quite clear (when used sparingly) and dries strong. Testors White glue didn't have a strong enough bond, and broke after handling the glued together halves. Tenax is so thin that it ran down the insides of my tediously polished bottles and fogged everything up (arghhh). Super Glue's also fog up the plastic. Bad idea.

Now you have bottles that are super clean and clear on the inside but still average on the outside. Take an X-acto and gently scrape the seam on the outside. What you're trying to do here is remove any misalignment that happened as a result of removing those locator pins. You need to be careful during this procedure because you don't want anything (scrapings, sanding dust, polish) to fall inside your bottle. Next, hand polish the seam areas to eliminate any "ridge". Close your eyes and see if you can feel any seam. When you have that seam virtually eliminated to the touch, it's time for the next step. Stick a wire in the hole in the top of the bottle and dip (the bottle) in Future.

There you have it. Once it's dry you will notbe able to feel any seams, although you can still sort of see them.

Now, with the boiling flask, I used Micro Mark to seal up the hole in the bottom of the flask. Once that dried I mixed up some Envirotex (a 2 part epoxy) and added some lime green flocking to the mix, to get a soupy lime green concoction. Then I used a good metal needled hobby syringe and sucked up some of the goo, them squirted it in the flask. I then set the flask on a towel in the same position that it would sit on the model. I wanted to ensure that the liquid would dry with the correct fluid line. Let me tell you, you could still see a tiny seam at this point. It was after I assembled the model that I weathered the bottles with oils that the seam disappeared. I imagined that the good doctor wasn't very clean, so all my components were a bit sloppy. You couls "spill" some of the liquid out the top of the bottle and lightly down the sides to hide what's left of the seams too.

For the frame of the table, I used Rub-n-Buff Steel. After polishing I weathered it down with a brown/black oil wash, then I added scratches with Vallajo Silver. I felt the table top was too huge to paint as one piece, and would be too overbearing, so I filed a vertical groove between the head piece and the bed, so I could paint them different colors. I painted the head piece Rub-n-Buff Dark Steel. The bed I painted with Testors Steel. Again I weathered it with a brown/black oil wash and added lots of scratches with Vallajo silver, concentrating on the bed edges and where the "Electro Bands" mount. Then I mixed up a scarlet/black oil wash (I was looking for an old blood color), loaded up my brush, and flicked (that's the best way I can describe it) splatters on the bed top. It gives it that "well used look". My Dr. Frankenstein was definately not a clean freak. For the copper parts (the round parts on top of the posts, and the insulators/contacts on the "gizmo") I painted them with Testors copper, then weathered them with a black oil wash. Then I mixed up a very thin turquoise acrylic wash and used it to look like tarnish, or corrosion. I then took two shades of gold and lightly sponged over the top to highlight the copper and look loik fresh scratches. Now the cool part. I still wasn't satisfied with this copper. I had envisioned it looking richer, brighter, so I mixed up some Tamiya Clear Smoke and Tamiya Clear Orange and airbrushed it lightly over the copper parts till I had the finish I was looking for. This worked great because it dried with a slight shine looking damp, or greasy, which would be exactly appropriate in my Doctors lab. 

The Bride is freshly wrapped and the bandages are smooth, so I chose not to drybrush them. I first basecoated her with tan, then gave her an overall oil wash of a medium brown/yellow. Then I sealed her with Testors Dullcote. Then, using straight oils (no wash) lightly feathered each seperate bandage, either lighter or darker, for that layered look (make sure you get all the way around her sides). Then I sealed her again. With oils, I found you have to seal alot, or else you keep taking off what you just put down. Next I used the lightest shade of tan and feathered only her highlights (the tops of her feet and toes, shoulders, the rounded areas of her hips, the top of her, um,...well lets just call them her highest points, and basically down the length of the top of the rounded edges of her sides). Then I took a fine point brush and, using an oil wash, striped the areas in between each bandage. Yes, it was a lot of work, but it gave me the results I was looking for. Lastly, using an airbrush, I lightly shaded the lowlights (dipped area that seperates her legs, down the length of the bottom of the rounded edges of her sides, her back/shoulder area, etc.). Then seal her up. That's it.


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

Mike - How many hours total did that process take? Sounds like a life time!


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## beck (Oct 22, 2003)

i seem to remember him saying he went through more than one set of clear parts to get it just right . 
hb


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## Mike Warshaw (Feb 23, 1999)

I remember talking to him about the time and it didn't seem crazy, but he was (and I would guess still is) a great modeler.


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## Otto69 (Jan 2, 2004)

Getting expert results takes at least some time Thrush. Having the right tools near at hand makes it go easier though. Like a drawer of fine abrasives, a plastic polishing kit, and several options for gluing clear plastic together clearly (currently I'm using Future or Watch Crystal glue from MicroMark.) That doesn't include masking tape(s), liquid mask, several types of seam filler, etc.

Then after all that, you have to spend the time, make the mistakes, and endlessly repeat the cycle.

This is what keeps my model building down to, at best, 1 kit every 2 months on average.


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## Cro-Magnon Man (Jun 11, 2001)

Great thread, and these built-ups show that when I built the kit years ago I should have painted the operating table as metal, not wood, so that the bride can receive the elctric shock needed to bring her to life...


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## THRUSH Central (Feb 20, 2003)

"Cro" - Great thought! Ya'll know something? What would ya'll think about combining input on how to paint the ultimate "Bride?" What has everybody learned (as "Cro" mentioned his learning curve above)? What would you do differently to make it even better?


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## dreamer (Jan 1, 1970)

Does anybody have any plans drawn up of the table as it appeared in the movie? Anything that could be posted? I need to rebuild the table completely for two I want to do, and one of them I want to have tilted.


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## GlennME (Aug 4, 2001)

dreamer said:


> Does anybody have any plans drawn up of the table as it appeared in the movie? Anything that could be posted? I need to rebuild the table completely for two I want to do, and one of them I want to have tilted.


 Here you go. I grabbed a few pics from the BOF DVD and whipped up this web page.

http://gmemail.customer.netspace.net.au/bride/index.htm


Glenn


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## dreamer (Jan 1, 1970)

Glenn, you magnificent b*****d, _I read your page!!_ That's fantastic!

THANK YOU! :lol: That's just what I need! Looks like I'll still have to cheat a bit, don't know how that mechanism under the table goes that loosens/tightens it, but on the whole I think I can manage it.


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## GlennME (Aug 4, 2001)

dreamer said:


> Glenn, you magnificent b*****d, _I read your page!!_ That's fantastic!
> 
> THANK YOU! :lol: That's just what I need! Looks like I'll still have to cheat a bit, don't know how that mechanism under the table goes that loosens/tightens it, but on the whole I think I can manage it.


 No worries Dreamer. If there are any other pics you'd like to see, just let me know and I'll post them. I've had the Bride on the backburner for a while. My plan is to build the table support from scratch, probably from brass, so that the table can be laid flat or tilted to about 30 degrees.

Glenn


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## GlennME (Aug 4, 2001)

dreamer said:


> Glenn, you magnificent b*****d, _I read your page!!_ That's fantastic!
> 
> THANK YOU! :lol: That's just what I need! Looks like I'll still have to cheat a bit, don't know how that mechanism under the table goes that loosens/tightens it, but on the whole I think I can manage it.


 Here's some more info about the construction of the table.

http://gmemail.customer.netspace.net.au/bride2/index.htm

Glenn


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## dreamer (Jan 1, 1970)

Oh, even better! You're going to work out the whole thing, I assume. What's the project? Revamp the the Aurora or do a fully scratchbuilt piece? I figured the back wall has to be raised for teh shelf, but as much wider as the table base is, the floor may not be big enough either.


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## GlennME (Aug 4, 2001)

dreamer said:


> Oh, even better! You're going to work out the whole thing, I assume. What's the project? Revamp the the Aurora or do a fully scratchbuilt piece? I figured the back wall has to be raised for teh shelf, but as much wider as the table base is, the floor may not be big enough either.


 Hey, you're a bad influence. I'm suppoded to be renovating the house. 

I've only roughed out a basic plan, and haven't got too far with it, because there is a chain of events that go beyond simply building a more accurate, working table and base.

1. The "A" frame has to be made higher.
2. Which means the back wall has to be raised.
3. The "A" frames have to be moved further apart, so that they are attached to the sides of the table, and not under it.
4. If you widen the frame and sub-frame to achieve step 3, the kit's base isn't deep enough. You'll have to either deepen the base, or seriously modify it, or scratch build a new base, or re-design the frame, deviating from the original design, or narrow the table, or, or, or or, ....

That's pretty much where I got to.

Glenn


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## dreamer (Jan 1, 1970)

Exactly. The whole point of the black and white set of Auroras I'm doing is to see what they might look like in black and white with a few modifications here and there - not wholesale replacement! But there's another Bride I want to do that could be scratchbuilt. Maybe I can cheat on the Aurora table and do the other properly. Just a matter of how soon you get- er, how soon I get started... :devil:


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