# Trackstar Gen II 1s esc



## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

Has anyone used the Trackstar Gen II 1s esc? What do you guys think of it? I blew up a esc in a car this past week and this looks like a cheap solution to replace it. Any input would be great. Thanks.


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## brettweir78 (Apr 11, 2010)

easy to use, just be sure to order the programmer to go with it.


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## hobbyten (Apr 5, 2004)

I have 2 that I've used for over 2 yrs. not a hint of a problem.


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

These esc's are great but the brakes (especially the drag brakes) are weak. You will need the programmer box (or know someone that has one) because it is required to set anything other than calibration to your radio. That box has not been available from a US warehouse for sometime, only the international one. It is P/N 9052000048. As far as I know it is the only one that works.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

Thanks for all the help guys. I planned on ordering the program box as well.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

Okay so I was using this esc in my breakout car today and during the heats and main my car would shut off. It looked like the esc stayed on as the wheels still turned by I lost throttle control and after a few seconds it would come back. Any ideas on what that could be?


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## brettweir78 (Apr 11, 2010)

could be low voltage cutoff needs to be turned off or a bad sensor wire or sensor wire connection is loose


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

One question, do you have the caps installed? If this was a carpet track with out the carpet being grounded a static build up can cause an esc to quit. They stay on and supply the radio but don't run the motor. I actually saw a lot of this this past weekend at the CRC New Years Dash. I don't think there was a problem after grounding the carpet. Our wonderful carbon fiber passing over the carpet but insulated from it generates the static. It was not unusual for someone to pick up a car and see them flinch when they got zapped. This does wonders to our electronics.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

I have the caps soldered on. We roll up the track every week because the local track just rents a ballroom for racing.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

I noticed when I was programming it the day after racing that the lipo cutoff was set to auto. Could that be my problem?


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## brettweir78 (Apr 11, 2010)

Yes, that could be the problem.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

I'm still having problems with my esc. My motor wire was loose before causing the car to power down. But now it will shut off every once in awhile. Every 3 races or so I will loose all throttle response for a few seconds.


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## BigStu (Jan 20, 2014)

Are you racing on new carpet? Sounds like you may have a static problem.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

Nope. Not the new carpet.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

I've had this problem at two different tracks as well.


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## moosefoot (Aug 7, 2012)

What are you using it in. If it is a 2 cell off road then it is probably overheating. If it is a pan car check to be sure your gearing isn't to high heating everything up. Also check the cutoff for the esc temp and motor temp. They are cheap esc's, and I myself have a pile of about 10 of the gen1 and gen2's that I have blown up. They aren't known for there reliability.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

I'm using it in a breakout class running a 1s lipo. The motor temp never gets above 120 degrees


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## davis2ph (Nov 19, 2013)

moosefoot said:


> What are you using it in. If it is a 2 cell off road then it is probably overheating. If it is a pan car check to be sure your gearing isn't to high heating everything up. Also check the cutoff for the esc temp and motor temp. They are cheap esc's, and I myself have a pile of about 10 of the gen1 and gen2's that I have blown up. They aren't known for there reliability.


I disagree. The current turnigy 1s  esc is a very good one. It is the same as the HobbyWing 1s controller. I run them on carpet oval and have had no problems unless I caused them.


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

I have never seen one of these "blow up". I have seen them damaged by what I think is bad soldering techniques. Three lost sensor connection internally and the solder jobs looked bad. My guess was not a hot enough iron and too much time sitting on the joint. That translated into a lot of heat on the board damaging the sensor connection. All of them worked but cogged. Those are the only failures that I have seen.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

Should I remove the motor wires then and solder on new wire?


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

Slash1998 said:


> Should I remove the motor wires then and solder on new wire?


If your solder job is a good one that isn't the issue. Even a bad sensor connection does not cause these to shut down as they work in sensorless mode just fine. Try putting a static wire on your car. Also get a can of static guard, spray it on a rag and wipe the bottom of your chassis. At the CRC oval race in January there was a big problem with static shutting down esc's of several brands. It was new carpet and initially it wasn't grounded. A whole lot of ground wires were put on cars and the carpet was grounded. In most cases the problem was solved.


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## Slash1998 (Nov 7, 2012)

I will do that. I also resoldered one of my wires yesterday as it was loose. I'm going to hopefully get to the track tonight and test it.


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## old_dude (Dec 12, 2008)

Guys: We are seeing a rash of problems with the Gen 2's and how people solder them up. They come without the wires on and the wires are tinned. The problem is that Turnigy is apparently using a high melt point silver solder. Racers have soldered them up and damaged the internal sensor connection by applying to much heat in soldering. Turnigy warranted the units and reported what they found.
Unless you are running high voltage batteries and mod motors, you don't need 12Ga wire. I recommend 14ga or even 16ga for 1 cell or even 2 cell and go easy on the heat when soldering. Tin the post before each wire and let it cool. Do each connection quickly with the unit setting vertically and again let it cool before you do the next one. Make sure that you have a iron with reasonable wattage and a good size tip. I also recommend using forceps to hold the wire as close to the connection as possible to block heat transfer up the wire. These are good practices on any esc but these seem to be more sensitive that others to excess heat.


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