# Seaview....Finally!



## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

So,after two year in a box,I decided that I wanted to see my Seaview up and built.The thing that bothered me was the radar domes on the sides.Some magic sculpt on the inside,then some resculping and you can see the difference.The center strake on the 17 footer does not go all the way up to the "stage" it fades at the top.Not quite finished but you can see where it's going.I found an automotive primer that,to me is the perfect top coat color.Now,if I could only get rid of the seam around the window insert....


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I finally found some led light strings that I want to use for lighting mine, so my journey with it is about to commence.

One thing I really wish, was that there were individual kit tips threads.. hunting down all the old build tip information is a bit of a daunting task.

For instance, I can't recall which was considered better.. assembling the front and back and then joining them, or assembling the sides, and then joining those. (I remember someone having a good reason for doing it side to side.

Maybe a "official" J2 tips thread would be a good place to start? Or someone here could be assigned mod status now, and be able to cobble something like that together?


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

It's much easier to do the front and back and join them in the center. Your asking for a lot of headaches if you do it the other way. I just have to figure out how I'm going to add the inch or so to the length.There was soppose to be an aftermarket plug,but it never came out,so I'm left to my own devices.The 17 footer is longer and the sail should be back by about an inch.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

I'm content with the shape as it is. Besdies, I'd just muck it up if I tried to extend it any longer.

As a kid I was happy with the old aurora seaview.. this one will satisfy my adult craving.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

*Looooking gooood Alex!*


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

I like where you're going with this, Alex. As always I'm looking forward to seeing more in progress pics.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The problem was how to add the extra length to the hull so that it represents the 17 footer.It came to me today that to make the plug I need to stand the front end in a box and and pour silicone up to the line.That should give me the plug with only one cut to the model.


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Brilliant!


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Nice work.
Hope to see more pictures.
:thumbsup:


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The mold was made and a plug poured.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The results.........The plug in place,now it looks more like the 17 footer.This also allows me to move the sail plate back as well.Time to join the two hulls together.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

So far, so good, my friend! :thumbsup:


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## Prince of Styrene II (Feb 28, 2000)

That is a brilliant idea for the plug! She's looking great so far. What are your plans for moving the sail?


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## gareee (Jan 1, 1970)

Since you have the mold, are planning on making any more plugs?


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Sorry,no plans to make any more.The mold was a "dirty" mold...not much good for more than one,I had to pour two different kinds of rubber,the first pour did'nt fill the box and the second almost cured before I could pour it!I'm in the tropics now and it's a *pain* to make molds here.You could make your own box and plug,the bottom of the box is 4 3/4'' square,and the walls are 2 3/4" high.You need 18 oz.(revised) of silicone to make the mold.The resin is about 12-13 oz.Pour the resin in batches of 2 oz. each and not in one pour.

Because of the plug,the sail and the plate it sits on can be slid back to where it should be,and a piece of sheet styrene added to the front.The only thing I cut from the hull is the inner sleeve that went into the back hull,and that was after I made the plug.I tried to do a slush mold so it would be hollow but that did not work.The plug is pitted with bubbles and is going to need a lot of bondo to make it right.The photos shows how the plate and the sail move back.Remember the 17' uses the twenty missile plate.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Beautiful.
I am cutting the limber holes in mine, its my third one! Also for my third RC, this time using a RCABS system from Big Dave Welch. 

To cut the limber holes, I use a 1/32 drill bit with my Dremel on its lowest speed in a Dremel drill press, to open up the area, then just use a very sharp and small knife to finish it up....Perfect!
:thumbsup:

Limber holes look so cool.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I'll be using Paulbo' PE Set for the limber holes.I'm going to split the top "Stage" off the hull,just havent decided when,before I join the hull or after.It will make replaceing lights much easier.


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## Paulbo (Sep 16, 2004)

The plug's looking super, Alexander. I don't think you'll have trouble with filling the pits in the casting, considering how nicely your sonar domes are working out.

A quick note on removing the "stage" area: that area on the studio models is also a separate piece with a very visible gap between it and the main hull. This means you don't have to make some insanely perfect seam between the two, which would be tough with a removable piece.

I'm looking forward to seeing more!

(P.S. I included extra grab handles so I think there might be enough to replace all of the ones along the spine and add the ones into your new plug area.)


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

falcondesigns said:


> I'll be using Paulbo' PE Set for the limber holes.I'm going to split the top "Stage" off the hull,just havent decided when,before I join the hull or after.It will make replaceing lights much easier.


My first Seaview RC submarine goes together that way.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

What did you do to make this mod?


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Do you mean RC, or to cut the superstructure?
Here is cutting the Superstructure
http://support.caswellplating.com/i...&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=195&nav=0,5,7

This may help, I bought this one, from this gentleman with the model almost done, for a great deal...lucky me! 
http://s181686668.onlinehome.us/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7847&start=0

Actually you can find both at Caswells site who sells Dave Merrimans stuff.
http://support.caswellplating.com/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=view&parentcategoryid=7&pcid=5&nav=0,5

Also Big Dave Welch sells a RC system too. Videos and links in my thread.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=269743

How to put a Big Dave unit together
http://s181686668.onlinehome.us/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7973&start=0


Here is a thread on the RC portions
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=991497

I got four, three are RC


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I was asking about the superstructure.I see a hack saw blade used to make the straight cut,what was your first step,drill small holes or score with a blade?
Since I will be removing the superstructure,I made a pattern for a brace that will go on each of the section walls to keep the hull rigid.A mold and resin braces will be made and put in place before I cut the superstructure off.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

No drilling, just score slowly, more and more, I believe the hack saw blade had been filed down, so as to keep the cut more fine....I checked that first link, it does not say so on that link, but I am sure the blade was filed down on both sides...however, if you score long enough, it will come off without a hacksaw blade.

The front has a extended arm that goes under the front and the back has a small screw. That holds it in place and give easy accesability.

Good idea on the jig.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I was thinking of using strong magnets at both ends to hold the superstructure down,since this is a static display model.My mold for the resin brace did not cure,so I've placed it in the sun to help it along.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

I think magents would be perfect.
:thumbsup:


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Part one of the sepration,done.


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Very clean! :thumbsup:


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## mrdean (Aug 11, 1998)

falcondesigns said:


> I was thinking of using strong magnets at both ends to hold the superstructure down,since this is a static display model.My mold for the resin brace did not cure,so I've placed it in the sun to help it along.


I was worried about lighting repairs! Great idea!:thumbsup: I am going to do this also.

I am going to use styrene for bracing, .04 or .02 should do it. I am going to look into plastic rivits that snap into place to hold the superstructure.

Mark Dean


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Part two,done.I took my time slowly scribing the line,first with an X-acto knife,then with a scribing tool,and it work well.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

*LOOKS GREAT ALEX!!!!!!:thumbsup:*

*Now I need to make another Seaview!!:freak:*


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Very nice job Alex
:thumbsup:

I just finished 54 limber holes in the rear half.


Its a great sense of accomplishment to be busy and to make models.
I like your shortened sonar bulb...looks good.

Yes Beatlepaul, you need to make another...
Magnets are one way to go to be able to open it up later.
I need to be able to access the insides of my models and never seal them.


I will have a fleet of three and maybe four RC Seaviews this summer...YOOOHOOO


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

falcondesigns said:


> The results.........The plug in place,now it looks more like the 17 footer.This also allows me to move the sail plate back as well.Time to join the two hulls together.


The overall intended length of the Seaview has always been in question. Lengths ranging as short as 300 feet to as long as 650 feet have been quoted. With a total assembled length of 39 inches, this model, at 1/128 scale, would represent a vessel that's 416 feet in length. 

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/Other/sl_seaview.htm

Cool work you did to extend the hull, and your cutting of the superstruture was supurb. With one inch extended it comes to a total of 426'


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Thanks Junglelord for your help with the superstructure.Here is the plug ready to install.The flat end will have sheet styrene glued to it,as will the front hull.Some tube glue will be placed on the joint for a strong bond.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

LOL< I cannot imagine I gave advice to a man of your talents, but your extremely welcome. I love your work. Your way better then me, or at least more confident.
:thumbsup:

But my confidence is growing with each build....and some experience.
I love the Seaview, just love it. Wonderful model.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Thanks for that.The braces are cast and in place.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Nice work, very stable configuration, more stable then with the superstructure attached, so you lost no firmness from cutting it off.
:thumbsup:

For what its worth, I started drilling out the limber holes with a bit one size larger. I was using a 1/32" with a dremel drill press. I switched to a size larger, 3/64", and went at it by hand, (actually two hands) much faster and no mistakes. I use a exacto knife to clean it up. I make two holes at the either end of the limber holes, as close to the top and bottom as I can get, then one in the center and take out the rest with as many drill holes as I need, till there is only a little left, then I go to town with the exacto knife. Perfectly clean and really fast. Hope that helps


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Here is the plug,trimmed and ready to install.This plastic wall and the one on the other side of the hull will be the mating joint.The two halfs wont be joined until all the major work has been done to each side of the hull.It's much easier to work on them while they are manageable.


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

falcondesigns said:


> Here is the plug,trimmed and ready to install.This plastic wall and the one on the other side of the hull will be the mating joint.The two halfs wont be joined until all the major work has been done to each side of the hull.It's much easier to work on them while they are manageable.


 
Looks Great Alex...

Your Up Early today My Friend!!On your second cup of Coffee Yet??LOL!!!!!

*Damm, Now I HAVE to go get another Seaview!*


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Scored the inside of the hull and made devits in the plug so that the epoxy has something to grip on to.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

Nice work. The longer length, even the one inch, is very cool.
Your the man.
:thumbsup:

My Limber Hole process is done on the third model, only one to go.
:freak:

Thats about 300 limber holes all total when I finish the third one.
I was thinking of just making evenly spaced, 3/64" drill holes on the last one.


Never screwed up on one....so I can say I got better and faster and more efficient at the dremel.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The plug is firmly in place,with some Magic Sculpt.Now to get the two hulls ready and joined.


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## junglelord (Mar 6, 2007)

WOW, very nice job....your skills are excellent.
:thumbsup:


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## Captain Han Solo (Apr 5, 2002)

_Ooooooohhhhhhhhhh..pretty.......:thumbsup:_


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

Both sides have their mating plates on for a strong hull to hull bond.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

The limber holes are on the superstructure.The original holes were puttied up.Debating weather to open them up or not.


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## kdaracal (Jan 24, 2009)

Good Lord. You're awesome. I love it when you post like this........


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## Seaview (Feb 18, 2004)

Alexander, did you open the limber holes?


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

I'm actually cutting them out per Junglelord build.


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## AJ-1701 (May 10, 2008)

Struth but you are doing a great job Alexander. :thumbsup: I love looking at the way you all take a subject and treat it with your skills and extras.

Cheers,

Alec.


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## falcondesigns (Oct 30, 2002)

for Mr.Bond.


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