# 6 hp tecumseh go cart



## popbreed

I bought a used go cart for my grandaughters for Christmas. The Tecumseh carb is a fixed jet (both i8dle and high speed) and no choke with a primer bulb. Motor runs great and is very reponsive. Problem is starting it cold is a bear. I have to keep pumping the primer bulb for a long time (3 to 4 minutes) and it does not want to idle well until it runs for 15 minutes. I have never seen such a carb and reading on a parts site it would appear this carb was not intendmed for the go cart application where speeds vary a lot prior to a fully warm engine. I think I need to look for a new carb with a choke and adjustable jets. Am I correct?

POP


----------



## newz7151

You won't find a different carb for it.

If this is one of the engines with the flat square air filter box, there should be a little removeable plate device in the cover that changes from cold weather to warm weather.


----------



## Restrorob

Nope, These carbs work just fine for go-carts. Sounds like it needs the carb taken apart and all ports and passages sprayed out with carb & choke cleaner with the little straw. The main jet is made into the float bowl nut (small hole in the center) same as where the low speed adjuster screw would be is the low speed jet and also has a small hole in the center of it, I use a bristol from a hand wire brush to make sure this one is open.

Another thing is people (kids) tend to monkey with the governor springs/linkage trying to get them to go faster.

Make SURE the two springs governor spring that hooks to the eye in the center of the linkage is not stretched or twisted. Also make sure the governed idle spring is not stretched/missing. Some will monkey with this spring and adjust the idle screw at the throttle shaft, Doing this WILL cause a low/no idle/die when cold. Governed idle should be set @ 1600/1650 RPMS and is adjusted by bending the little tang the spring connects to on the control plate assembly.


----------



## popbreed

Thanks for the replys. I have gone thru the carb. Prior to that, it would not idle at all even after 20 minutes. Idle jet was plugged. I will switch the plate ( I noticed it) and check out the governor. Thanks again for the help.

POP


----------



## oscaryu1

Hi fellow Go Karter 

Does it start and run well in the hotter days? How old is the gas? Does it start good with carb cleaner?


----------



## popbreed

Can't answer what will happen in warmer weather yet since we don't have any LOL! At 50, it still has to sit there and run with the back end jacked up. It seems odd to me, to keep it running you have to "hit" the gas pedal every few seconds. In a car, you would be pumping the acclerator pump but these little carbs do not have acclerator punps. It would appear a slight opening in the throttle plates and then closing keeps it running. Almost indicating a rich mixture but it idles fine once it is warm which takes 5 to 10 minutes. It starts fine with the primer bulb and will keep running if you hit the primer bulb every few seconds (which throws out the too rich theory). Wish it had a regular old choke!!

POP


----------



## 30yearTech

It really sounds like the low speed circuit of your carburetor is plugged and not feeding enough fuel to keep it running at idle speeds. The pilot jet may be plugged or there may be a restriction in the circuit that feeds fuel to it. 

Post the model and spec number of your engine and we can get more specific on what to look at on your carburetor. :thumbsup:


----------



## popbreed

When I tore the carb down, the idle jet was plugged and the engine would not idle at all, cold or hot. Now it idles fine when warm (no surging either) but takes forever to get warm Cold is a disaster. I am not trying to run it when the weather is beow 45/50.

Here are the numbers for the motor

OHH60 71106C DOM 8063

Thanks for your help,

POP


----------



## 30yearTech

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=52602&stc=1
640025C.pdf

Looking at the "IPL", when you serviced your carburetor did you remove the nozzle reference number 36? Did you replace both nozzle seals reference number 37? If these seals are leaking it will allow too much air to be drawn up around the nozzle instead of fuel, making the engine very hard to start, and will not want to stay running or be very responsive until the engine warms up. You should be able to run your engine on cold days as well as warm days, if everything is working properly.


----------



## popbreed

Not sure I replaced them. I will drop the bowl and nozzle and see. The upper one will be especially important since it is an "air" environment. Right? Thanks for the suggetion. I will post back after I check it.

POP


----------



## 30yearTech

The top one rarely comes out with the nozzle, you usually have to dig it out with a litter wire or a pick. These seals deteriorate and don't seal well and need to be replace periodically.


----------



## popbreed

*got it*

Finally had a chance to pull the carb and check those o rings. As 30yeartech suggested, they were shot Replaced them, put it back together and she starts and idles great cold or hot. Problem solved. Thanks again!!!!

POP


----------



## onion1

I am having a simular problem with a oHH60 with the same carb. How do I remove the nozle part (36) to check the o rings?


----------



## justin3

Onion1, you should be able to stick a finger through the throat of the carburetor and push the jet downward.


----------



## slappyface

same carb and engine as POP. i was wondering what part of the carb is the idle jet? looking at the diagram provided by 30yearTech? thanks


----------



## 30yearTech

slappyface said:


> same carb and engine as POP. i was wondering what part of the carb is the idle jet? looking at the diagram provided by 30yearTech? thanks


Reference number 20 in the diagram is the pilot jet for the idle circuit. There is a small plastic cap covering it. You will need to pull the plastic cap off of the jet, and then it can be removed by unscrewing it with a screw driver.


----------



## hd4ou

this little dude is one of the biggest issues with these carbs. the venturi tube is the other big issue as the o-rings are often overlooked. heres a pick of the bowl nut and the little hole towards the center there outta the thread is generally the culprit.

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z120/geogrubb/tec_bowl_nut.jpg

take a look at this also

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_640342.asp


----------



## yuglooc

hello all new to this page but I have the same problem I have replaced the orings, bowl, needle valve( which I cant get to seat right on the float) but when the motor is running gas runs out the breather. any yhoughts?


----------



## pkad38

I have the same carb with the exact same problem. The engine won't idle cold.....the orings have deteriorated, wondering where I can purchase new ones? If anyone happens to know, please let me know.


----------



## 30yearTech

pkad38 said:


> I have the same carb with the exact same problem. The engine won't idle cold.....the orings have deteriorated, wondering where I can purchase new ones? If anyone happens to know, please let me know.


I have successfully been using #007 O-Rings in these carburetors for a couple of years. You should be able to pick them up at most auto parts or hardware stores. You should also be able to find the specific ones at most any lawn mower / small engine shop.


----------



## justin3

I purchased a good quantity of O-rings and needle valve seats for Tecumseh, just because they tend to be the most common failure point where I am located. Its not always worth an entire rebuild kit.


----------



## geogrubb

Harbor freight has a box of "O" rings for about $6 that has several of the commenly needed sizes. Have a good one. Geo


----------

