# My 1/350 TMP Enterprise Refit



## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

*My 1/350 TMP Enterprise Refit Using Orbital Drydock Masks*

I originally posted under the Orbital Drydock thread and it was getting out of hand with people bashing Brett. I waited for my masks and it was well worth the wait based on the pictures I have posted pictures of my build using his masks. Everybody just chill out and you will get them and you'll be happy you waited......trust me.

A few more pictures applying the Aztecs to Secondary Hull, Pylons, Fantail and finishing up the lower saucer preparing for the Aztecs in the next few days.

Hi Brett, I will be ordering the Alclad clears in light sheen and semi-matte and a few others. Which one did you use or did you mix the 2. Approx. how much clear will be needed to cover entire ship with 1 coat. The Alclad comes in 4oz bottles. Not sure if you said it already but I think you used an HVLP sprayer for the clear coat and you cleared the ship in sections then assembled it which is how I planned on doing it.

Thanks,
Scott


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Looks great. Thanks for posting the shots!


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## holt35 (Aug 15, 2013)

Very nice so far, I've been thinking about building another 1/350 myself but I'm still not sure if I want to go the decal route or go with the masks.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Really like what you've done. I found a HVLP sprayer on TCP Global Devilbiss mini HVLP spray gun. It's 99.99 with free shipping. The cheapest iwata is $120. I just can't see spending more then $120 since I'll only be using it for my larger models. The Devilbiss is nice because it's smaller and it comes with a 4oz cup not 8.5 as its states on the website. All the other cups are really big. 4oz should be plenty. Which sprayer did you use? 

I thought about not applying any clear/seal coat after painting. It's the decals that concern me. Silver in will just ruin the look. Too bad there's not a set of masks specially for the decals so the areas could be masked, decals applied then the area masked again to only seal the area that the decal has been applied. 

You're already masking/remarking for Aztecs which is tedious. Why not for the decals. Admittedly some of them are so small that a mask would amount to just a outline of the decal.

I'm going to be looking/moving in the next few months for a bigger place, so I'm not in a position to experiment.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Secondary Hull Aztecs all finished!! 

Moving on to the lower saucer tomorrow and hopefully finished by Saturday


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

A few more pictures


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

Oooh, those pylon masks are nice. So much easier than hand cutting lots of little pieces of tape...

Looking good. I think it was mentioned in a different thread that clearcoating dulled the aztec effect. I feel like I had the opposite situation. The coat of Future made them pop MORE, at least to my eyes.

Also, what are those four squares in your shuttlebay?

I'll have to try to get back to mine this weekend. My kids keep asking to help build a model, so I'll have to find something for them to do.


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## hubert (May 3, 2008)

barrydancer said:


> Also, what are those four squares in your shuttlebay?


They look like surface mount LED's.

Keep up the nice work, Scott. Like Barry mentioned, the colors seem to 'pop' at times with some of your pics. On the other hand, when the lighting is different, they are extremely subdued. Interesting effect.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Thanks for the compliments!!

Those 4 squares are in fact SMD's mounted on tape. I do not have the shuttle bay in yet so you are seeing the lighting underneath. 

The tape comes on a roll of about 15 feet and can be cut at specific points on the tape. All is prewired with resistors embedded in the tape so you only have to solder + & - to it. They also come in various colors and widths.

When the shuttle bay is in the 3 yellow lines on the shuttle bay floor will be illuminated


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## barrydancer (Aug 28, 2009)

How are you getting the shuttlebay in if the hull is already sealed up?


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Through the front where the deflector dish goes. I removed the vertical support brace behind it and can just fit the shuttle bay in. Once installed I can then glue the brace back. I test fitted this before I glued the hull together.


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great, you are off to a good start.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

I'm thinking of using all polytranspar paints from the primer, the white base coat and the interference colors. Looking at the site I can't tell if the primer (gray), and the white base coat are gloss or flat. I think they are gloss, is that correct? The one thing I'm concerned about are the decals, because I don't want to apply a top coat to keep the interference colors really show. What are you doing?


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

tedkitus said:


> I'm thinking of using all polytranspar paints from the primer, the white base coat and the interference colors. Looking at the site I can't tell if the primer (gray), and the white base coat are gloss or flat. I think they are gloss, is that correct? The one thing I'm concerned about are the decals, because I don't want to apply a top coat to keep the interference colors really show. What are you doing?


The Polytranspar white primer is flat (I assume the grey primer is as well) and I would suggest you use a HVLP sprayer for the primer for the initial coat to cover/light block the model because it tends to clog up my airbrush with prolonged use. This is a big model priming and base coating with an airbrush will take a lot of time even if you are doing it in sections. I also light blocked the inside to cut down on spraying too much primer on the outside. I'm using a .6mm tip in my airbrush and I have to thin it quite a bit for it to spray. 

Before any primer I sprayed Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter and within 10-15 minutes of final coat of the adhesion promoter start spraying on the primer. I used Transtar #4603 automotive gray primer to light block and the same brand primer in white #4633 before the Polytranspar white basecoat. Just spray very light primer coats and let dry in between. I do use the Polytranspar white primer in my airbrush for the seam work and any areas that need to be touched up. 

All their other lacquer paint colors is glossy but if you spray with a smaller tip .4mm and higher pressure it will dry flat/matte and still very smooth. I done this with the detail colors and it worked out well because they should be flat/matte. 

As for the white basecoat I sprayed with a HVLP sprayer and it dried glossy and very smooth just what I wanted for the Iridescent colors to be sprayed on and decals to be applied to so I only have to clear coat once at the end.

Not sure yet what the final clear coat sheen will be but I'm leaning towards a satin to semi sheen or somewhere in between.

Hope this helps......A lot of info gets confusing


Some Lower Saucer Aztec's


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

A few more pictures


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Thanks for the tips, folks ... they'll help once I get up the nerve to tackle the beast.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

escape068 said:


> The Polytranspar white primer is flat (I assume the grey primer is as well) and I would suggest you use a HVLP sprayer for the primer for the initial coat to cover/light block the model because it tends to clog up my airbrush with prolonged use. This is a big model priming and base coating with an airbrush will take a lot of time even if you are doing it in sections. I also light blocked the inside to cut down on spraying too much primer on the outside. I'm using a .6mm tip in my airbrush and I have to thin it quite a bit for it to spray.
> 
> Before any primer I sprayed Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter and within 10-15 minutes of final coat of the adhesion promoter start spraying on the primer. I used Transtar #4603 automotive gray primer to light block and the same brand primer in white #4633 before the Polytranspar white basecoat. Just spray very light primer coats and let dry in between. I do use the Polytranspar white primer in my airbrush for the seam work and any areas that need to be touched up.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much for the info. I do plan on getting a HVLP sprayer. I found one on TCP Global for $99 that I'm going to order. It is a big model and I didn't want to use my airbrush or rattle cans for the primer or base coat. Light blocking I was just thinking of using rattle cans, but the HVLP sprayer would work as well and probably with less over spray. I'll take a look at your paint recommendations. I am planning on using duplicolor adhesion promoter before priming. 

I have Trekmodelers paint guide, that I've been using as a reference, so between that and your suggestions I'm starting to develop a plan. 

What other paints are you using for the strong back, and nacelle supports?

Are you using a paint booth? I'm looking at one on Amazon right now that's big enough to hold the saucer. Lacquer paints are the worst when it comes to fumes.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

tedkitus said:


> Thank you very much for the info. I do plan on getting a HVLP sprayer. I found one on TCP Global for $99 that I'm going to order. It is a big model and I didn't want to use my airbrush or rattle cans for the primer or base coat. Light blocking I was just thinking of using rattle cans, but the HVLP sprayer would work as well and probably with less over spray. I'll take a look at your paint recommendations. I am planning on using duplicolor adhesion promoter before priming.
> 
> I have Trekmodelers paint guide, that I've been using as a reference, so between that and your suggestions I'm starting to develop a plan.
> 
> ...


For the light blocking I used Krylon spray cans for the inside dark grey then satin or flat white over it. For the outside light blocking and primer I used Duplicolor adhesion promoter followed by Transtar Gray primer 4603 and then white primer 4633 spray cans. Light coats allowing to dry in between. Then with a HVLP sprayer the Polytranspar White #10 for the exterior basecoat. After the white base coat cured I did a very light wet sand and then buffed out the surface for a super smooth and shinny finish

For the strongbacks and pylons I'm using HDA Modleworx Strongback decal set
http://hdamodelworx.com/350-SCALE-T...DEFLECTOR-HOUSING-and-Pylon-Decals_p_116.html

I use a respirator and usually get a box of those 8x12 clear plastic drop cloths and tape off and area from ceiling to floor a spot in my basement to use the HVLP sprayer. I have a window right next to the area where the fumes exhaust out. With a HVLP sprayer it doesn't take long to spray. It takes longer cleaning the gun. I don't use it too much and now that the weather is getting warmer I can spray in my garage also if I need to.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Thanks for the info. Looking at the Mckenzie site are you talking a out superhide white FP-10? The other primers shouldn't be to difficult to get or a equivalent.

I've picked out a DeVilbiss startingline detail/touch-up HVLP sprayer #802405, cleaning kit, stand, and storage case for $186. I found a paint booth Artograph 1530 that I like. Now I just need to find a suitable house/townhome to rent as I'm planning on moving in May/June of this year. Need to make sure I can find a place to fit everything into 

I'm actually going to paint the strongback and pylons, so call me crazy! 

Really like your progress you've made on your kit so far.


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## Landru (May 25, 2009)

Would love to own a set of these masks... NICE work!!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

tedkitus said:


> Thanks for the info. Looking at the Mckenzie site are you talking a out superhide white FP-10? The other primers shouldn't be to difficult to get or a equivalent.
> 
> I've picked out a DeVilbiss startingline detail/touch-up HVLP sprayer #802405, cleaning kit, stand, and storage case for $186. I found a paint booth Artograph 1530 that I like. Now I just need to find a suitable house/townhome to rent as I'm planning on moving in May/June of this year. Need to make sure I can find a place to fit everything into
> 
> ...


Yes the FP-10 superhide white


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Lower saucer Aztecs mostly finished except for the rim. I will complete that when I attach the upper and lower halves........Now onto the upper saucer Aztecs


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Bridge mounted to upper saucer and light blocked. Just need to re-paint the blue around bridge deck and a few of the other color details.

Aztecs done on main saucer. The Aztecs on the rim will be done when the saucer halves are joined together


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## Garbaron (Apr 23, 2004)

Looks great, awesome Aztec work!


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## hubert (May 3, 2008)

Really nice work.


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## Scotty K (Mar 21, 2011)

That really looks awesome. Keep the pictures coming!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Thanks for all the compliments!!

So many things still need to be done. I still have the Aztecs to apply on the Nacelles but I will do that towards the end because those will be installed on the pylons at the very end along with the deflector dish.

I think I will start to put the decals on the secondary hull and saucer sections and then onto the hardest decision........what type sheen will look the best and represent the actual model for the TMP?

...........Satin sheen or something more towards shinny or flat.........I will be using either the Alclad or the Polytranspar clears but will test several scrap pieces to see what looks best.

After the clear coat has been done I will then paint the other details that look like they should be matte/flat in sheen and then assemble the sections.


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## tedkitus (Jun 19, 2008)

Oh boy! Your model is looking just awesome! I ordered my polytranspar paints this morning including the white paint for the base coat that your using. I just need to get the primers and adhesion promoter. The other colors of the ship will be model master acrylics. They be ok since I'll allow enough time for the laquer to dry/cure since the polytranspar paints are hot. I'm following Trekmodelers paint guide which I bought a while ago. 

I also just received my HVLP sprayer and other goodies in the mail the other day.

Your model is looking just awesome.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

tedkitus said:


> Oh boy! Your model is looking just awesome! I ordered my polytranspar paints this morning including the white paint for the base coat that your using. I just need to get the primers and adhesion promoter. The other colors of the ship will be model master acrylics. They be ok since I'll allow enough time for the laquer to dry/cure since the polytranspar paints are hot. I'm following Trekmodelers paint guide which I bought a while ago.
> 
> I also just received my HVLP sprayer and other goodies in the mail the other day.
> 
> Your model is looking just awesome.


Thanks for the compliments!

The acrylics should not affect the lacquer base coat. 

I didn't realize when I started this build that most of the details can be painted at the very end to preserve the flat/matte look they have and not have to worry about covering them up when the rest of the ship is being clear coated. I already painted some of the details but have left the others for the end. I'm using lacquer paints for the details and I don't think they need to be clear coated for protection so I will leave them as is.


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## hubert (May 3, 2008)

escape068 said:


> onto the hardest decision........what type sheen will look the best and represent the actual model for the TMP?
> 
> ...........Satin sheen or something more towards shinny or flat.........I will be using either the Alclad or the Polytranspar clears but will test several scrap pieces to see what looks best.


You probably weren't soliciting opinions and I don't get to see many of these models built in person. Regardless, to me, anything more than a satin sheen seems to destroy the illusion (therefore the effort put into) the model. Much like the great work you posted on the fleet of SR-71/A-12.

Not to hijack, but here is a thread of another I believe looks great...

http://scifimodelaction.com/sfmaforum/index.php?PHPSESSID=8iq8fkhr4j3eabo1e90sio9dg1&topic=4604.45

Like yours and others, I know this must be extremely difficult. Subtle but not too subtle... 

I know whatever you choose though will look fantastic.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

hubert said:


> You probably weren't soliciting opinions and I don't get to see many of these models built in person. Regardless, to me, anything more than a satin sheen seems to destroy the illusion (therefore the effort put into) the model. Much like the great work you posted on the fleet of SR-71/A-12.
> 
> Not to hijack, but here is a thread of another I believe looks great...
> 
> ...


I have several different Alclad clears and I think it would be either the light sheen 311 or semi-matte 312 or a mixture of both that may work and the same with the Polytranspar clears. Their satin or it mixed with some flat may work also. I will have to test several mixtures and also how the clear is applied.........probably with some light misty coats instead of any wet coats

On another build I was using Tamiya Acrylic metallic paint to simulate titanium metal. I wanted the sheen to be as close as possible as if it had no clear coat on at all. I did it with very light misty coats and it's very hard to tell their is a clear coat on it.

Would you think it would be similar to the sheen in the attached picture of the of the A12....That was done using "Future"


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## hubert (May 3, 2008)

escape068 said:


> I have several different Alclad clears and I think it would be either the light sheen 311 or semi-matte 312 or a mixture of both that may work and the same with the Polytranspar clears. Their satin or it mixed with some flat may work also. I will have to test several mixtures and also how the clear is applied.........probably with some light misty coats instead of any wet coats
> 
> On another build I was using Tamiya Acrylic metallic paint to simulate titanium metal. I wanted the sheen to be as close as possible as if it had no clear coat on at all. I did it with very light misty coats and it's very hard to tell their is a clear coat on it.
> 
> Would you think it would be similar to the sheen in the attached picture of the of the A12....That was done using "Future"


Don't break out that picture!!!! I have to excuse myself from the room... goodbye. LOLOL.


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## WOI (Jun 28, 2012)

I think I will apply that metallic shading for my 1/350 scale
Cosmostrator model kit that I had just got recently.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Did some detail painting......Still more to do before the decals


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## RossW (Jan 12, 2000)

Gorgeous!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

More Aztec painting around the impulse deck and bridge. Detail painting on the front and back vents of the pylons done.

Still have to do the small doors on the upper saucer & phaser banks then onto the decals for the saucer and secondary hull.

Need to test different clear coat sheens.....then start the Aztecs for the nacelles.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Started applying decals. It's going to take some time........There are so many small ones!!


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## larskseme (Sep 2, 2014)

So very pretty! You've done a marvelous job so far!


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

larskseme said:


> So very pretty! You've done a marvelous job so far!


Thanks for the kind words!

More decals applied to secondary hull......Just have to finish up the strongbacks and deflector dish decals. 

I applied some of the really small decals but decided I'm not going to put all of them on. So after the strongbacks the secondary hull will be ready for clear coat. I probably want to finish up all the decals for the upper and lower saucer as well before I apply any clear coat.

I still have to test different sheens to see what I like best. In order to try to maintain a multi sheen finish I will cover up most if not all of the detail paint colors before I clear coat so they will remain a matte/flat finish. Any details that I cannot cover up I will go back and clear coat them in a matte/flat finish. This adds a lot more taping and work but I think it will be well worth it.

I also need to finish up the seam work on the Nacelles and then start the Aztecs


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

I'm trying to attach pictures and it keeps saying file format invalid. I tried jpg and png formats. 

Anybody know why and how it can be fixed

Thanks!!


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## Zombie_61 (Apr 21, 2004)

escape068 said:


> I'm trying to attach pictures and it keeps saying file format invalid. I tried jpg and png formats.
> 
> Anybody know why and how it can be fixed
> 
> Thanks!!


This has been a problem ever since Hobby Talk changed hands earlier this year and the forum software was upgraded. So far the new owners have been unable (or unwilling) to solve it, so the solution has been to host photos elsewhere online (Photobucket, for example) and embed or link to them in your posts.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Zombie_61 said:


> This has been a problem ever since Hobby Talk changed hands earlier this year and the forum software was upgraded. So far the new owners have been unable (or unwilling) to solve it, so the solution has been to host photos elsewhere online (Photobucket, for example) and embed or link to them in your posts.


Thanks for the info......I will sign up for one and post them that way


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## gene1138 (Aug 25, 2011)

escape068 said:


> Started applying decals. It's going to take some time........There are so many small ones!!


Doing a fantastic job. The aztecing looks great. Wait till you get to decaling the nacelles. I went cross eyed trying to apply all the small triangles and getting them to point the right way.


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## bholcomb007 (Mar 25, 2017)

WOW!
I just got my Refit 1/350 model in and am currently working on the TOS 1/350...this will be next and I am doing my research!

Where did you get the Aztec masks?

I will defiantly need them!!!!

I love the TOS ship but I love this one even more!

Thanks for any info you can give me to make it as close to the movie model as possible!

GREAT work sir!

Thanks, 
Ben


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Hi Ben,

I got the Aztec masks from Orbital Drydock https://orbitaldrydock.com

He has an eBay store 1/350 PL Enterprise Refit/A v2 -- 5 Color Master Aztec & Paint Mask Set

Best of luck with your build



bholcomb007 said:


> WOW!
> I just got my Refit 1/350 model in and am currently working on the TOS 1/350...this will be next and I am doing my research!
> 
> Where did you get the Aztec masks?
> ...


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

Check out Trekworks YouTube channel 



 for a complete 1/350 Refit build 24 part series especially if you are going to light it.

I also watched the first 2 movies and studied closely how the ship looked when it was on screen. 

Don't worry about matching everything exactly because you may never finish it. Better to have a model 90 - 95% accurate and complete than waiting for it to be 100% accurate and not complete.





bholcomb007 said:


> WOW!
> I just got my Refit 1/350 model in and am currently working on the TOS 1/350...this will be next and I am doing my research!
> 
> Where did you get the Aztec masks?
> ...


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## alensatemybuick (Sep 27, 2015)

NICE work, escape. Are you using the hdamodelworx strongback decals?


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

alensatemybuick said:


> NICE work, escape. Are you using the hdamodelworx strongback decals?



Yes....the strongback decals from HDAmodelworx 

I will try to attach some finished pictures of my 1/350 Refit


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

A few more


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

And some more......I guess you can attach pictures now. It didn't work for a while


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## alensatemybuick (Sep 27, 2015)

Loverly.

Good choice too on not painting the bridge dome gold or the "footer" that robin's egg blue.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

alensatemybuick said:


> Loverly.
> 
> Good choice too on not painting the bridge dome gold or the "footer" that robin's egg blue.


I lightly painted the bridge dome iridescent gold. All the other accent colors I custom mixed to as close to as I thought it was from looking at the first 2 movies and pictures. I stayed away from that light blue.


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## alensatemybuick (Sep 27, 2015)

escape068 said:


> I lightly painted the bridge dome iridescent gold.


Very subtle, and far better than the yellow-gold effect I've seen on some very nice builds.


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## bholcomb007 (Mar 25, 2017)

escape068 said:


> Check out Trekworks YouTube channel Fully Lighted Large Scale Starship Enterprise With Custom Display - YouTube for a complete 1/350 Refit build 24 part series especially if you are going to light it.
> 
> I also watched the first 2 movies and studied closely how the ship looked when it was on screen.
> 
> Don't worry about matching everything exactly because you may never finish it. Better to have a model 90 - 95% accurate and complete than waiting for it to be 100% accurate and not complete.



Thanks!

Yes, I have been watching that channel religiously to learn his tips and technique. Awesome channel.

I will check out the EBay store for the decals and mask sets...
Again, Super thanks!

Ben


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## bholcomb007 (Mar 25, 2017)

escape068,
Did you use a Flat or Gloss white for the base coat on the saucer after priming for the base before doing the Pearl-Ex aztecs?


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

bholcomb007 said:


> escape068,
> Did you use a Flat or Gloss white for the base coat on the saucer after priming for the base before doing the Pearl-Ex aztecs?


I used a lacquer based gloss white. After it dried I wet sanded and buffed to a high gloss super smooth finish which was perfect for the Aztecs and decals. I sprayed the base coat with an HVLP sprayer and also the clear coat.


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## bholcomb007 (Mar 25, 2017)

escape068 said:


> I used a lacquer based gloss white. After it dried I wet sanded and buffed to a high gloss super smooth finish which was perfect for the Aztecs and decals. I sprayed the base coat with an HVLP sprayer and also the clear coat.


Sweet...thanks.

I use Model Masters Enamels...and I just got a 4 oz HVLP detail sprayer...I am finding it is a LOT easier covering areas of this size!

Thanks,
Ben


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## JGG1701 (Nov 9, 2004)

Beautiful craftsmanship!
You should be proud. 
-Jim G.G.


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## escape068 (Jan 26, 2016)

JGG1701 said:


> Beautiful craftsmanship!
> You should be proud.
> -Jim G.G.


Thanks for the nice compliments........It took a little over a year to complete but it was worth it in the end>


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