# Lighting and Detailing the PL 1/350 K'T'inga



## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I purchased several of the new PL 1/350 scale K'T'inga kits and one light kit.





  








46586355381_1e343a125c_o.jpg




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Trek Ace


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Jun 19, 2021









Needless to say, I was very disappointed with the lighting kit and am glad that I only purchased one. This left me with a challenge to try to duplicate the studio model lighting as closely as possible without using the kit (although I may utilize some of the included photoetch parts on one of the builds). So, I decided to forego the lighting kit altogether and attempt to come up with an alternate solution on my own.


My goals are to try to re-create the quality, color temperature and relative brightness of the various light sources of the ship as it appeared in the first shots of The Motion Picture when the Klingons are attacking the cloud, leading up to the Epsilon Nine scene.


The first thing I wanted to tackle was the red, glowing intake at the front of the impulse deck, reproducing the diffuse glow and shape of the effect.


After some experimentation with different transparent paints, LEDs and diffusion materials, I was able to come up with this:





  








K_T_inga_Intake_Comparison_sm




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Trek Ace


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Nov 26, 2018


















In the above photo, there is a bit of a color shift toward orange, but it does appear to come close to the appearance of the effect in the film.


Here is a shot that is a little closer in color to the effect I want, although I will try to reproduce a slightly deeper red before I call it good.





  








K_T_inga_Intake_MatchLightingEffect_sm




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Trek Ace


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Nov 26, 2018


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Looking good. How did you finally achieve it?


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Wow! That comparison shot looks dead on. I really like the orange-y falloff. What was the technique? Colored bulbs or white bulbs with transparent paint?


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

My goal is to light this model without resorting to the additional light kit, have it externally powered from a 9-12V source, and have several mounting points and power connections.



One thing (of many) that I am very pleased with concerning this kit, is that included is a spare clear part #103 for the impulse intake. Having that extra part has allowed me to do a lot of experimentation over the past week without risk of damaging the bagged part. This is still an experiment, so I am not yet permanently affixing the parts together until I am satisfied that the effect most closely resembles the onscreen appearance in the film.


I tried several different grades of translucent diffusion media and wasn't really satisfied with any of them. I also tried a combination of sanding the clear part and using dullcote- still not satisfied with the result. So, I stripped all of the paint off the clear part, polished it out, and tried again.



My fallback was to use a thin sheet of opaque white styrene plastic as a diffuser, which I should have gone with from the start, since it yielded the best result. I chose Evergreen .015" sheet stock, since it was thick enough to scatter the light without seeing the source, yet thin enough to allow for good transmission. The sheet plastic also came in handy as a bounce by using it to create a light box within the impulse housing.






  








DiffuserPattern3




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Trek Ace


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Nov 27, 2018




















I started by sticking a post-it note on the forward edge of the clear collector part. By running a mechanical pencil around the edge, I was able to transfer the shape of the forward intake to the paper for use as a stencil. I also used the same technique to trace the contour of the top of the clear part.





  








DiffuserPattern2




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Trek Ace


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Nov 27, 2018



















Next, I transferred the tracings to the plastic sheet and cut out the patterns with a knife.





  








DiffuserPattern4




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Trek Ace


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Nov 27, 2018

















This yielded a diffuser for the front intake, and a bounce for the roof.





  








DiffuserPattern6A




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Trek Ace


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Nov 27, 2018

















I test fitted the sheets on the inside and did some additional trimming to allow for the locating pins to clear the bottom edge of the intake.





  








DiffuserPattern8




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Trek Ace


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Nov 27, 2018


















I also cut out another piece of sheet plastic to line the bottom tray of part #4 to act as an additional bounce source for scattering and softening the light. I lightly scored the back end and bent it up at about a 45-degree angle, matching the contour of the back wall of part #4. I added a notch to the left edge of the reflector and to part #4 to allow for wiring.




  








DiffuserPattern7A




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Trek Ace


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Dec 2, 2018


















I then cemented this in place with Tamiya Extra Thin cement.





  








DiffuserPattern7B




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Trek Ace


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Dec 2, 2018


















Next up was to apply a few coats of Tamiya Clear Red with an airbrush to the clear part (#103). Once the paint was thoroughly dry, I attached the white plastic diffuser and bounce parts to the inside using a thin line of canopy glue around the edges.


I then installed two warm white SMDs against the back wall of part #4 in place of the intended 5mm LEDs. Since this meant to test out the effect, I did not permanently attach them, but rather placed a layer of Scotch frosted tape to hold them in place. I then painted a glob of Tamiya Clear Red on the tape over each SMD to act as a color gel. Next, I fitted the clear part over part #4 and held it in place with clear tape.


Before placing the collector into the impulse intake housing, I needed to mask off the front of the clear collector in an attempt to reproduce the narrow "crescent" shaped glow on the intake. For this, I just used some black electrical tape and carefully stretched it over the top and bottom of the clear intake part in an arc that mimicked the contour as seen in the film. For the final effect, I will probably use two pieces of black adhesive vinyl cut to the shape of the crescent.





  








DiffuserPattern9




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Trek Ace


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Nov 27, 2018

















The result is shown in the first two photos in my original post.


I think it's almost there. It is still a little more orange-red than I would like, instead of the deeper, purer red as seen in the film. As an alternative, I may end up substituting the individual SMDs with a 1" short strip of double-density red SMDs. This might achieve the more pure red that I am looking for. I have some on order, and it should arrive in the next day or so. I'll try it and post the results here.


In addition to the impulse intake, I will be experimenting with alternate ways of lighting the impulse engines, evenly lighting the cool-white ports on the front bulb and the "hat", the red lighting inside the bridge dome, and the more neutral-white spot lights. The last items on my lighting list are the slow-blinking running lights and the torpedo tubes.


I welcome any feedback or ideas others may come up with.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Super write up and corresponding photos. :thumbsup:


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Very nice! Keep in mind the styrene sheet will turn yellow over time. That may or may not be a concern, but it's a good idea to take this into account. I find "milk" plex to be an excellent diffuser and it should not change color as it ages. It cuts more light the thicker it gets. The original studio model likely had a vacuum formed piece in this location that was frosted. I'd guess it was probably made of clear butyrate.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Thank you for the detailed write-up. Very nice.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I finally received the pure red double-density LED strip that I ordered last week.


I cut off just one inch of the strip, which includes three red SMDs (pictured below), and soldered leads to it to try it out.













Once satisfied with the result, I cemented the light strip permanently in place with cyanoacrylate, then fired it up again to make certain everything worked. 













I am very happy with the final result. It reproduces the very pure red as seen in the film much more effectively than using red-stained or gelled warm-white SMDs. I will leave the rear holes in part#4 to allow for increased airflow, as light strips tend to run significantly hotter than LEDs for individual SMDs, and I want to keep it as cool as possible.












Charles, thanks for the comment on the white plastic. I have little worry about any yellowing that may take place over time. Since it is reflecting a warm color, there would probably be only a very slight color shift of a few degrees kelvin at worst. I doubt if it would even be noticeable in this case.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Moving on to the front viewports - again, I tried various levels of translucent diffusion material - but the best and most event result was by using thin white plastic sheet. The ports look slightly blown out, due to the camera's slight over-exposure. They appear much sharper and slightly bluer in person.











I have three different colors of "white" LED strips - 3000K (warm), 4500K (neutral) and 6000K (cool). I will try all three in combination with diffusion and perhaps a pale blue gel and judge the results. I plan on using tungsten-balanced (3200K) lighting for photography. So, the amount of pale blue-white would change depending on which color of "white" LED strip I choose to go with - 6000K providing the bluest in this first test.




















The lighting is a three-inch length of cool-white (6000K) double-density LED strip that is about an inch back from the ports, with a thin (0.015"), white diffuser close to the ports. The clear part from the kit is not present. I may or may not use it. The light strip will be mounted to a copper strip, which will then be attached in place with CA and low-temp hot glue. Notice the shadow cast onto the diffuser from the locating peg. I will be removing that, as it is not really necessary for construction. I will also line the enclosure with thin foil to help contain some of the heat given off from the light strip, then paint it with flat white to even out the lighting.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Cool-white LEDs really bother my eyes so I won't use them. But, the look of the windows in your photo above appear dead-on to what's seen in the film. White with just a touch of blue. . . Also, I recently went back and looked at HD screen caps and in the film these windows seemed barely lit. That's because they were tiny even on the studio model!


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

TrekAce, there's a group on Facebook dedicated to building this kit:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/949966111838164/

If you're on Facebook, I invite you to join (and anyone else reading this, all are welcome!). If not, I hope you won't mind if I share some of the tips you've posted here. You've gotten the best results I've seen so far in terms of even, diffuse lighting. Very nice work!


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Thanks for the kind words, Charles. 



I am not on Facebook, but you are welcome to share this material with others in the group. I would invite you to post a link back to here from the Facebook page so that HobbyTalk can receive the traffic, and further invite them to join up here, if they wish.  



The only modeling boards that I have belonged to and participated in over the years is this one and Starship Builder. With Starship Builder gone, it just leaves this one. I often peruse others like The RPF and Starship Modeler, but I am not a member at either one and prefer to share info from here.


I just received some 3mm 1Hz blinking red LEDs from Evans Designs and a variable-rate flasher circuit from NGineering for driving two warm-white 3mm LEDs. I will try both of these out to see which set works best for reproducing the blinking running lights on the K'Tinga model as seen in the film and post the results here.



I also just received a shipping notice that the ParaGrafix photoetch set just shipped. So, I will be able to play around with the impulse engines in the near future. More to come!


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Link posted, thanks!  You noted LED strip can get quite warm, and that's very true. FWIW, it's really best to mount it on aluminum plate or strip and the self-adhesive back is ideal for this. The aluminum functions as a heat sink and keeps it from getting too warm. Of course, when you have only one segment, it's not going to generate a significant amount of heat. But, as the length increases, the need for a heat sink becomes greater.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

You're absolutely right about using heat sinks with long strands of LED strips. With a single 1" piece, it certainly generates heat, but not enough to cause damage to the model. I left the impulse grille sealed up with tape and turned on overnight to check the amount of heat, and the parts were only mildly warm.


I'm still working on finalizing the 'cobra head' lighting placement and arrangement. Since it requires several inches of LED strip to evenly light the tiny ports, there is much more heat generated, requiring them to be mounted on lengths of copper strips. I will sometimes line the area around the light sources with dull foil, or foil with a layer of flat white paint to provide both absorption of heat and diffusion of light.



One thing I discovered early on when first working with LED strips is that the heat generated will sometimes cause the adhesive backing to soften and peel away. So, I will usually use cyanoacrylate to more firmly mount the strip, followed up by additional anchoring with low-temperature hot glue (which is a tip that I found on the modeling boards).


I agree about the cool-white LEDs. My eyes prefer low-key tungsten light over fluorescents or daylight-balanced indoor light. Cool-whites are rarely my first choice for modeling. Since so many of the real-life objects and studio models I choose to replicate used tungsten light sources, warm-whites are usually my first choice. To me, getting the color temperature right is just as important as the scale brightness and quality of the light source (diffused or specular) that I am trying to reproduce.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Brief update:


It has been a very busy week for me, and therefore I didn't have much time to spend on the model. However, I have received a few more electronic components (though not yet received the ParaGrafix photoetch - hopefully soon). I plan on being back at it over the weekend, and will provide updates of the progress.


In the meantime, I thought I would share something that has been mentioned in this and other forums and threads on this and similar subjects:












These are a selection of swatch books for theatrical and color-correction gels for lighting used in the film and TV industry. These kinds of color gels and diffusion media can be very handy for modifying the color and quality of the sources when lighting scale models. The swatchbooks, gels and diffusion media can be found at local theatrical, stage, and TV/film lighting and grip supply stores. Some now charge for the swatch books. Gels and diffusion media range from about $6-$10 for a 2' sheet - each enough to do LOTS of models.


Also, today (December 7th) is a day of remembrance for Pearl Harbor and our entry into WWII. 77 years ago.



December 7th also marks the 39th anniversary of the release of _Star Trek - The Motion Picture._


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Last night I had a chance to wire up a test of the Variable-Rate Flasher circuit from NGineering in Battle Ground, WA (thank you for the recommendation, Charles). I soldered the power leads to the board. Followed by soldering a 270 ohm resistor in series with two 3mm Warm-White LEDs, and powering everything from a 12v source. It worked perfectly when powered up, and I was quickly able to adjust the flash rate to 1 second on, 1 second off to match the studio model as closely as possible.











This is working so much better than the red 3mm "slow flashing" LED that I tried earlier. It never really ran at exactly the 1Hz advertised, and hooking it up in series with a non-flashing LED yielded less than satisfactory results.


This little variable-rate circuit is the perfect solution. It measures only 3/4" square and will drive both warm-white LEDs in series. I will probably swap out the 270 ohm resistor for a larger one, as the lights are running much brighter than necessary, and I want their output to be in-scale once I tint them red and install them in the model.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Individual LEDs are best run on 5V. To maximize the life of the LED, no more than 20mA should be allowed to flow through it. IIRC, this flasher circuit can run on 9V (we used it in our "C" movie project that can be seen on my FB page ). 

When I run 9V in my models, I wire two LEDs in series like you have done here. At 12V, I run three LEDs in series. This is to avoid dissipating too much power through the resistors. That not only wastes energy, it also generates a good amount of heat.

Also, when dimming is needed, I discovered that increasing the value of the resistor doesn't work very well. In fact, it doesn't reduce the brightness nearly as much as you might expect. Instead, I use a potentiometer to create a _voltage divider_. This reduces the voltage going to the LED and allows full brightness control from "OFF" to maximum output (limited only by the in-series resistor). It's important to make sure not to overload the potentiometer in the process so be sure to understand exactly how much current is flowing through the circuit before connecting it to power. Hope that helps! 

PS If I can provide one other tip that I learned the hard way from practical experience, it's don't _ever _solder resistors inline with your LEDs or wiring. They are made from solid-core wire. When bent, it weakens and will eventually break. Even if it's working now, later on if the wires get jostled they can break and the circuit will stop working. Instead, cut a small piece of experimenter's "proto board" and solder the resistors on that. Then, solder stranded wire to the board and use it to connect to the rest of the circuit. 

Also, use heatshrink tubing on each leg of the LED, then shrink a larger piece on top of that (over both legs together). This will help secure and protect the leads of the LED during handling against both breakage and possible short circuits.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Thanks for the response, Charles.


I want to emphasize that the connections shown in the photo are of a test wiring just to make certain that everything works as specified. It will not in any way be the final wiring configuration that will be installed into the model. I used up all of my project boards with Arduino circuits for other models, and I have not yet ordered replacements. So, a few drops of solder to tack the components together and voila! - a circuit. 


I certainly agree with you about not soldering solid core wires or leads together (again, the photo in the previous post is depicting a quick-and-dirty "burn" test, and not the final wiring). I use stranded wire for all connections.



I usually run models from a 12v, 5A source with a dimmer to regulate the overall brightness. What I like to accomplish by using resistors or pots in-line with the LEDs is to balance all of the sources relative to one another, with the dimmer controling the 'global' light level overall.


I received the ParaGrafix photoetch fret yesterday, and am very impressed with the quality of the product (as I always am).












I will definitely be using a good portion of this on the model (especially the impulse grilles and bridge dome viewports), together with brass wire and 80-mesh brass for other details. I have been wanting to experiment with the lighting for the impulse engines and torpedo tubes. Now, I will be able to move ahead with that.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

When test-fitting the top and bottom neck and bulb components together (parts #46 and #37), I noticed that the parts were slightly twisted, and the bulb was leaning a few degress to the left. After securing the parts together with tape, I placed them on a level countertop and rested the parts on the alignment pins of the upper neck part #46, placing a level on the front bulb of part #37. The bubble went far from center, verifying that there was indeed a misalignment.
While perusing other forums, I saw that others were noting that some of their parts were warped. This was most likely caused by the parts not being allowed to cool properly before being ejected from the molds.
If you look at the box photos, you will see that the bulb is leaning down on the left slightly on the front view of the built-up model. Mine was like that - only worse!


To correct this, I used a heat gun on the low setting and slowly heated each part separately while gently twisting the part in the opposite direction. After they cooled, I then placed both parts together and secured them with tape. The second level check showed that there was still a very slight list to the left. I then decided to carefully heat both parts together while gently twisting in the opposite direction and then checked them again with the level. This time, they were in perfect alignment with the bubble sitting almost exactly centered. 













I encourage everyone who is building this kit to check the alignment of the two neck/bulb parts before building the kit. It is far easier to fix before assembly and painting than it would be after.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Greg in Japan is pretty sure they flipped some parts in the instructions:

http://stevethefish.net/life/models/ktinga/instructions-error01.jpg

37 & 38 and 39 & 40 were flipped left for right and vice versa.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Thanks for that, Edge10.


Since I familiarize myself with the parts' shapes than the part numbers, I don't really rely on the numbers themselves when building a kit. For the above post, I just referred to the part number callouts as shown in the instructions when referring to the top and bottom neck parts. I sure hope that I got the other part callouts right in the earlier posts. 


Here is a pic of the instruction sheet to clarify which parts of the neck I am referring to.












I saw a video recently that someone had a warped 'wing' section of the kit. The same technique could probably be used to fix that. Just work slowly and keep the amount of heat applied to the parts in check so that they do not melt or further distort. Better to make the corrections over several light applications than to overheat the part and potentially damage it beyond the ability to fix. If you have a sink nearby, you could heat the part back into shape, then run cold water over it to rapidly cool it and "freeze" it in place. That's the process I use.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

There are quite a few errors in the instructions. I realize you're not on Facebook, but for those who are there's a group dedicated to this kit and a lot of helpful info can be found there:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/949966111838164/


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hey Trek, I did a little work on mine tonight, and I see what you mean. There is a little twist in the neck, where it meets the command bulb.

Still, an awesome kit. Daunting, but awesome.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

I'm starting to suspect that "twist" in the neck might be inherent to the production process. I wonder how many kits have this. It's certainly present in the kit that was used to make the box art.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

The twist in the neck is certainly not unique to this model. It can also be present in the 1/1000 scale PL Klingon D7 kit, as well as the original AMT Klingon kit from 1968, and all further releases. It would sometimes take a bit of effort to true those up as well. At least it's correctible, and it certainly does not take away any of the enjoyment of working on this superb kit.


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

If you look at the photo of the movie miniature from the front, it's neck looks twisted too. It's CANON.


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Let's face it, Klingons are warriors not engineers! :grin2:


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

JeffBond said:


> If you look at the photo of the movie miniature from the front, it's neck looks twisted too. It's CANON.



Well, that's on the original modelers. 


Is the neck and bulb really twisted? The bridge module is certainly canted and not sitting flush.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

I'm not seeing the twist in the model box photos (at least what I see online. My box is still wrapped under our Christmas tree). What are you guys seeing that I'm not?


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> I'm not seeing the twist in the model box photos (at least what I see online. My box is still wrapped under our Christmas tree). What are you guys seeing that I'm not?


It's very slight, but it is there. It dips down on the port side.

http://www.collectormodel.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/POL950-1-350-Ktinga-small.jpg

I'm not sure if I will risk trying and fix it or not. Knowing me, it will end up ruining the whole model.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Ah. Huh. Would never have seen it if it wasn't pointed out to me. It's probably more noticeable in straight on bow shots. Of course, if it's on my kit it'll be one of those flaws I'll see every time I look at the model. Hopefully, I won't have to deal with it. 

At this point, I'm more concerned about the sharpness of the windows since I'm not going to get the lighting kit and won't be using the photo etch.

Thanks for the response, Edge!


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

I was just playing with mine and found that the bottom of the command pod on mine actually droops to starboard.

I'm also finding the small pins on the top of the bulb, assembled using the cobra head as a jig, per the instructions, don't line up with the holes on the ladle (neck and bottom of the pod). I have to squeeze the bottom of the bulb to get them to lineup.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

edge10 said:


> I was just playing with mine and found that the bottom of the command pod on mine actually droops to starboard.


I'm so juvenile. I've read this sentence three times and giggled each time. > I'm sorry, Edge.

Anyway, so it seems chances are good that there will be a twist in my kit as well. Considering the surgery required on previous Trek kits over the decades, this should be a relatively each fix. Super hot water, some clamps, maybe an internal brace or two.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)




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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> I'm so juvenile. I've read this sentence three times and giggled each time. > I'm sorry, Edge.
> 
> Anyway, so it seems chances are good that there will be a twist in my kit as well. Considering the surgery required on previous Trek kits over the decades, this should be a relatively each fix. Super hot water, some clamps, maybe an internal brace or two.


You're a bad man. A very bad man! 

As for the windows, they are sharp on the front side but unfortunately, due to the curvature, they couldn't be punched all the way though. I have been punching them out with a sharp Xacto knife. As you imagine, it's less than perfect, but the windows are very small. Each window is only about as tall as the knife is wide!

The windows (or whatever) on the cobra head are punched all the way through, since the piece is flat and must be bent to lay on top of the clear under piece.


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

The windows on the bulb on mine punched through fine and look pretty sharp. I doubt I'll use the photo etch.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Good to know. I wasn't thrilled about the fact that the bulb etch leaves a lip around the curve. It would be nice to have some of the detail etch pieces for the front of the main hull, but I could probably scratch something or modify the kit pieces to be a bit thinner and sharper.

For those making DIY lighting, could I get some recommendations on LED bulb types and sizes? I'm assuming 5mm bulbs would work for pretty much everything. I think star-art mentioned warm white bulbs for the interior lights and cool white for the exterior floods (or I may be mistaken). Or would cool for everything work given that the one-screen appearance is generally more bluish?


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I'm not using any of the lighting kit or photoetch from it on my build. The molded windows are fine on my kit and required minimal cleanup.


I'm using a variety of 3mm and 5mm LEDs, as well as LED strip lights and SMDs on my build. I'm using a combination of cool-white, warm-white, neutral-white and red for my lighting colors - depending on their location and purpose.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

The aft starboard window insert was the worst for me. The others were much better, with the top row of windows on the aft port being partially blocked. I guess it's just flash and I was less fortunate then others, in that regard.

I think most of the placements were designed with 3mm LEDs in mind. Probably best if you wait till you open up your kit and do an assessment.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I worked open some of my windows that were partially blocked with a sharp knife tip and a tiny needle file along with LOTS of magnification! Since nearly all of the plastic in this kit is molded in black, I find that I also need an extraordinary amount of extra work light when working on this kit. The black plastic just swallows of all of the available light and I find myself adding some of my large LED panels that I use for photography alongside my workbench just so I can see what I'm doing!


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## whiskeyrat (May 7, 2012)

Excellent build and write up... good catch on the twisted bulb, I probably would have caught that AFTER assembly and painting knowing my luck... great work on the lighting too it's a spot on match! Can't wait for the final product...


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Brief update: I've been out of town for most of the past week visiting with friends over the holidays. My early attempts to reproduce the impulse engine effect resulted in unsatisfactory results. They are deceptive in their apparent simplicity - they don't pulsate, spin or twinkle with multicolor lights. But, they have a definite "look" - diffused, but "sourcey" with a point of light in each exhaust; a shadow, or "grille" pattern; and a rich, red glow that fills the entire exhaust port without much falloff. I think that I am getting close to matching what is shown in the frame below. The effect is similar to, but does not match the photoetch grille parts for the impulse exhausts provided in the Paragrafix set.












I am also working on the fore and aft torpedo tubes with their unique color and light pattern as well. I've ordered more LEDs of varying types that should arrive soon after the new year. I will also soon post some additional photos of the final light arrangements in the front "bulb" section of the ship.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

Paul (of Paragrafix) pointed out to me that there should be an additional glowing "point" of red light at the very center of the front photon tube. I hadn't spotted this, but check the screen captures and it is indeed visible for just a few frames in the film. This was not included in the patterns made for the kit.

EDIT: Checking the screen captures again, I discovered what I was told is incorrect. There is no glowing area in the center of the forward torpedo tube on the model. This was added during filming by rotoscoping when they animated the firing of the torpedo. So, the kit design of the clear part is correct.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

I think that this is the image you are referring to:












I guess it could have been animated, but it does track pretty well in the shot.


Nevertheless, I am planning on adding it to my build.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

It's not there, then it's there. It appears just prior to firing.


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## robn1 (Nov 17, 2012)

The torpedo wasn't animated. It was a practical effect done with a piece of faceted glass illuminated with a red laser, the facets created the shafts of light that emanated from the torpedo. This was filmed by motion control which would allow it to track with the ship.

I just took a look at the scene and the center point of light only appears just before it fires, except that the light lingers a second or two after the second shot, it goes out then comes back on for the third shot. I think it's more likely a light in the model that was ramped on and off in sequence with the torpedo shots.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

robn1, you are absolutely right about the way the torpedos were created - back in the glory days before the effect became a plug-in.


If you look closely, you can also see some tendrils or "spokes" emanating from the center out towards each point of light. 






















I've been testing different grades of diffusion material to reproduce the scattering seen present in each. When my latest LED order arrives, I will be able to continue with both the torpedo tubes and the impulse engines.


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

Incidentally, an Apogee effects demo reel just surfaced showing that originally ALL THREE Klingon ships are shown firing on V'ger:






It kills me that this shot was dropped--it would have been the most exciting one in the movie as far as I'm concerned.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Holy Heck! That's frickin' amazing! They had footage of all three K't'inga's firing and they didn't use it? That's a crime against humanity.

And look how green those ships are in the opening shot. Gawd, if only Paramount would pop for a 4k remaster and recomp some of the effects shots using the original elements. Of all the Trek films, TMP deserves to be seen the way it was intended.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Wow! I haven't seen that in decades. I didn't think a copy even still existed, although it may have ended up on a Japanese LaserDisc at some point. This looks like it was from a VHS source. It's amazing what shows up on YouTube.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Back to the model, does anyone have a good reference photo of the two light sources on the studio model at the top rear of the bulb just under the cobra head? I'm talking about the two that are right at the join line between the bulb and the cobra head, not the two lower on the bulb on the sides.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Argh. The instruction sheet doesn't indicate an order of operations while assembling the impulse engines. I glued the housing together to make it easier to paint not realizing the clear engine piece locks into a rabbet that can't be accessed after the housing is glued together. Now I can't put the clear piece in. I'll have to make a new piece out of flexible clear material to hopefully bend the clear insert into place.

Friendly reminder: the instruction sheet on this kit is pretty bad. Don't trust it. Test fit every piece. Don't glue anything until you're sure it's right.


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## Milton Fox Racing (May 27, 2014)

Could you remove the locking portion and fit the original clear piece into the opening? :lurk5:


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Argh. The instruction sheet doesn't indicate an order of operations while assembling the impulse engines. I glued the housing together to make it easier to paint not realizing the clear engine piece locks into a rabbet that can't be accessed after the housing is glued together. Now I can't put the clear piece in. I'll have to make a new piece out of flexible clear material to hopefully bend the clear insert into place.
> 
> Friendly reminder: the instruction sheet on this kit is pretty bad. Don't trust it. Test fit every piece. Don't glue anything until you're sure it's right.


This is definitely a measure a thousand times and cut once kind of kit.

For instance: The clear inserts that go behind the bulb windows, they definitely don't fit after the bulb is assembled. They may fit in before the top and bottom halfs are attached, but I doubt it.


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Back to the model, does anyone have a good reference photo of the two light sources on the studio model at the top rear of the bulb just under the cobra head? I'm talking about the two that are right at the join line between the bulb and the cobra head, not the two lower on the bulb on the sides.


Here is a link to reference photos of the studio model. Just scroll down and you will find pictures of the area you need. 

https://m.imgur.com/a/Uge4H


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Argh. The instruction sheet doesn't indicate an order of operations while assembling the impulse engines. I glued the housing together to make it easier to paint not realizing the clear engine piece locks into a rabbet that can't be accessed after the housing is glued together. Now I can't put the clear piece in. I'll have to make a new piece out of flexible clear material to hopefully bend the clear insert into place.
> 
> Friendly reminder: the instruction sheet on this kit is pretty bad. Don't trust it. Test fit every piece. Don't glue anything until you're sure it's right.


Watching TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan's video on youtube, he made the same mistake.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Trek Ace said:


> Here is a link to reference photos of the studio model. Just scroll down and you will find pictures of the area you need.
> 
> https://m.imgur.com/a/Uge4H


Thanks, sir! I still can't quite make out the details on the clear piece --- what needs to be opaque and what needs to be clear -- but I'll figure it out.


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hunk A Junk said:


> Thanks, sir! I still can't quite make out the details on the clear piece --- what needs to be opaque and what needs to be clear -- but I'll figure it out.


I think they are just supposed to be spotlights for the neck. I think that everything that isn't pointing directly aft, should be hull green.

These two screen grabs show it the best:

http://movies.trekcore.com/gallery/albums/tmp2/tmphd0112.jpg

http://movies.trekcore.com/gallery/albums/tmp2/tmphd0114.jpg

Since they are large images, I didn't inline them.


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

edge10 said:


> I think they are just supposed to be spotlights for the neck. I think that everything that isn't pointing directly aft, should be hull green.


Correct.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

That's awesome, Star-art! That's super helpful. I could tell from the movie that the lights shined aft, but wasn't sure if the round protrusions were the light sources or something else. It's a relief to know how to paint it. Thanks!


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## star-art (Jul 5, 2000)

My kits are still in the box, so I haven't taken a close look at the spotlights (#118 and #119). People have been having a lot of trouble figuring out how to install them. From some of the images they've posted, I believe these parts were changed after the test shots and prior to full production. The instructions seem to show the original design and not the final parts, hence the confusion. 

The attached file (based on two different photos posted by people currently building this kit) has notes added by me that I hope will help clarify what these are supposed to look like when they're installed. I realize it can be tricky to see just what's going on since A) they are very small and B) they are made from clear plastic.

________________________________________
www.StarshipBuilder.com Follow me on Facebook
Author, MODEL DESIGN & BLUEPRINTING HANDBOOK, Volume 1 SECOND EDITION NOW AVAILABLE


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## gene1138 (Aug 25, 2011)

Yep. Star-art is correct. I happen to have pic of the part painted and installed so might be a little easier to see than the bare clear part.

2019-01-14 13_11_19-Window by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/, on Flickr


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Thanks for the info, guys!


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

I decided to take the plunge and replace most of the molded in piping on the K't'inga with brass rod. I've also added some thin raised wire that is missing on the kit leading from the neck to the bulb just below the officer's lounge windows.

I gotta say, painting this ship is hitting that painful spot between it being a fun challenge and a complete nightmare. The screenshots don't match from shot to shot, the reference photos are all over the map, and no matter how right things look they somehow still look wrong. Jim Small did a terrific job on the box photos, but even matching that is a challenge. I have a feeling I'm going to be doing a lot of overspraying and washing to get everything to tie together.

But the piping will look good!:thumbsup:


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## John P (Sep 1, 1999)

I think when I get to mine, it's going to be "_A_ klingon ship", not necessarily "_THAT _klingon ship from the movie." No way I'm going to even _try _to get the paint to match the screen model.


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

Honestly, if there is one "rule" that I'd recommend for painting this model, it's simply that there should be some contrast of color or tone or sheen between any two panels. The specific colors are less an issue, IMHO, than just creating the illusion that the ship is constructed out of a lot of individual parts bolted together. Try to avoid any large uniform green or gray surfaces. That's my advice.

Oh, and take your time. This isn't a weekend build. Might not even be a month build.


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## ClubTepes (Jul 31, 2002)

John P said:


> I think when I get to mine, it's going to be "_A_ klingon ship", not necessarily "_THAT _klingon ship from the movie." No way I'm going to even _try _to get the paint to match the screen model.


I kind of like the idea that Klingon ship paint jobs are unique to the 'houses' that they are from, rather than the military in general.

There is so much emphasis put on all the 'houses' and alliances between houses, that you would want to be able to easily identify them.

I've got a very unique paint job that I'm doing on mine, and I've seen some others, that make the subject all the more interesting.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Oh, making it look like the box wasn't so hard...


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hey Lou, been watching your videos on this. I'll be buying the paint masks, when available.


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

Yes, bring on the paint masks! The one thing I'd say is a lot of the paint jobs wind up being way too high contrast--I think the wash done on the box art build does a great job of tying the colors together and over spraying is another way to tone things down. I absolutely hate masking and Lou's vinyl masks are a godsend to anyone as lazy as I am...


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## Hunk A Junk (Jan 28, 2013)

I went ahead and started masking with the yellow delicate surface frog tape. I totally agree about keeping the contrast between the colors toned down. Right now, the higher contrast areas on mine look very toy-like and the lower areas give a better sense of scale. I'm still thinking some overspray with metallics -- gray silver, maybe a little aluminum -- will blend everything and give it that on-screen metal sheen I'm going for. I hope. :|


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

totally agree... these pics were taken pre-wash


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

After having to be out of town for most of this month, I am finally able to return to working on this model. I decided to take a short break from the lighting portion and focus on adding some of the details that were mentioned at the beginning of this thread. First up is adding the mesh screen details to the engine nacelles. There are six locations to work on: rear inboard and outboard areas, and inboard screens located in the forward section of each nacelle.


This requires a lot of delicate and tedious drilling, filing and sanding to make this happen. Here is a pic with a test-fitting of the #80 mesh brass screen to the rear of the outboard port nacelle:












I need to do a little more thinning of the plastic behind the cutout sections to make the screen fit in tighter. I may also replace some of the piping detail with brass rod, which I will have to do anyway when I hog out the plastic for the inboard forward screens.


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## jdonigan (Sep 7, 2018)

*Lighting question*

I just watched the *Apogee Special Effects Demo Reel for Star Trek The Motion Picture* 
<found on youtube at *qoDxunCN9NI*> 
and am wondering - does the model light the registry and insignia on the top of the "wings" the way Apogee set them up? 

It wasn't clear to me that it does. (I can't post links, yet.)


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

jdonigan said:


> I just watched the *Apogee Special Effects Demo Reel for Star Trek The Motion Picture*
> <found on youtube at *qoDxunCN9NI*>
> and am wondering - does the model light the registry and insignia on the top of the "wings" the way Apogee set them up?
> 
> It wasn't clear to me that it does. (I can't post links, yet.)


It seems they do. With what success, is up to interpretation:

Chapter 3 - Klingon Battle - TrekCore 'Star Trek' Movie Screencap & Image Galleries


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

good news! 
the first crate of K'Tinga masks went out the door yesterday.
should be showing up at the usual places very soon


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## Trek Ace (Jul 8, 2001)

Looking forward to those. Thanks, Lou!


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## JeffBond (Dec 9, 2013)

Ah, fantastic! I'm working on two of them and I need them masks...


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## edge10 (Oct 19, 2013)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> good news!
> the first crate of K'Tinga masks went out the door yesterday.
> should be showing up at the usual places very soon


Ordered. 

Hey Lou, did you say Aztek Dummy is your full time job now? If so, congratulations on living the dream!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

yes it is. 

a couple of years ago I retired from a job workin' for the Man and now I work for myself

better hours , but the sexual harassment just won't stop


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## Capt. Krik (May 26, 2001)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> yes it is.
> 
> a couple of years ago I retired from a job workin' for the Man and now I work for myself
> 
> better hours , but the sexual harassment just won't stop


You really need to talk to your HR Dept. about that. Lou. >


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