# Jim Slade's Refit Progress



## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

Thought I'd share some of my progress photos. Being an engineer, I mess around with the engineering stuff (building a flasher board, light mounts, structural, etc.) rather than the artistic (e.g. painting).

I've attached a few files showing what is going on.

First of all, I have decided to make the dish and engines removable for transport. Not that I expecting to move the thing around much, but if if ever do I would need to do so. Therefore, I am replacing or supplementing the plastic connectors with metal ones. One of the pictures shows the neck to disk connection. I replaced one pin at a time (slow process). I cut off the pin, drilled a 3/16 hole through the disk into the mounting, added 3/16 rod and then a gob of expoxy. On some of the pins there is some tube to bridge the gap between the pin and the plastic body.

While testing fitting before starting this process, one of the pins broke off. This:
A. Made the selection of which pin to start with; AND
B. Justified my decision to make this change.

A simliar effort is underway with the engines.

Arboretum: More elaborate than some. Less elaborate than most around here. Uses 1:350 benches. I left them au naturel.

There are two shots are of the hangar. I tightly wrapped with electrical tape so that the unit will fit cleanly within the hull. There are 20 LEDs underneath and a lot of wires that can snag. 

The other picture is of the interior. Sorry it looks so dark (where are the 20 LEDs?) but the camera doesn't do justice to it. I frosted the elevators but painted no details. because I wanted as much light as possible to come in as it is impossible to light the back from the top. I added 1:350 rails. There are work bees along the sides with custom decals. Each side has 12 square windows drilled out. You can see the glow from the 6 upper level windows, that from the 6 lower windows is barely visible.

The deck is covered with Tamiya masking tape, where it will remain until final assembly, for protection.

Hopefully I can get a 35mm picture developed and scanned in that shows the true lighting effect.


Finally, there is a composite of the forward dish. I described the technique in an earlier post. These pictures (as distorted as they are by the camera) show how at full intensity with a blue light, it looks blue; with the light off, it looks copper; and with the light at low intensity there is a blue/copper transition. This way you get both the movie dish colors with one light.


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

Wow! Very nice! I love the way your deflector looks!


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

*More Pictures*

One thing that has bothered me about the PL refit is the large windows. I have tried making window frame out of plastic but the #$&* frames are too small. I finally broke down and made a set out of brass (picture attached).

The next problem is how to mount them.


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## cinc2020 (May 10, 2004)

Actually, a lot of modelers make life difficult for themselves by fabricating frames for the large windows on the Enterprise. Why not fill the large holes with clear plastic, sand both the outside and inside after filling gaps with putty, then polish. WHen you're ready to paint the exterior, simply cut out window masks from masking tape and apply. When painting is finished and the masks removed, you have perfect windows.

That's the approach I've taken, and the result is perfect. I use the same technique for the circular portholes using a punch and die set. This is especially important, since all the windows are atually a bit too large...


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

cinc2020 said:


> Actually, a lot of modelers make life difficult for themselves by fabricating frames for the large windows on the Enterprise. Why not fill the large holes with clear plastic, sand both the outside and inside after filling gaps with putty, then polish. WHen you're ready to paint the exterior, simply cut out window masks from masking tape and apply. When painting is finished and the masks removed, you have perfect windows.


Three points of disagreement:
1. Does not work for the lounge.
2. Does not give a 3d effect.
3. Does not give a rounded radius to the corners.


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## spe130 (Apr 13, 2004)

bigjim...great points. Thanks for all the pics and tips.

Bust through any walls to sweep a woman off of her feet lately? :tongue:


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## Guest (Mar 4, 2006)

bigjimslade said:


> Three points of disagreement:
> 1. Does not work for the lounge.
> 2. Does not give a 3d effect.
> 3. Does not give a rounded radius to the corners.


With respect i have to disagree with you sir, i did this on my first test one and it does work.

It can give a 3d effect depending on how many layers you use. I used two layers of tape and cut the masking on a mat then applied them to the window. once sanding was done i just removed the top layer leaving a single layer while painting was done. Granted this only gave an overall depth of about .5mm but adequate at least for me.

The rounded effect you refer to was cut in with nothing more complicated that a fresh scalpel blade just nibbling away at the corners. I'll see if my friend who now has the model can get some close pics of that and i'll post 'em if you wish.
Incidentally, that is also how i did the large panel relife on my Eagle nosecone and the corners for example are rounded quite nicely, just cut masking tape and putty. That one was about 8 layers or so if i recall correctly.

But all that said, if this method is not to your liking then ok, different strokes and all that.


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

Not sure if folks are aware of this or not, but there are also some fantastic photoetch parts now available for the PL refit from a guy over on starshipmodeler.com. I ordered his two exterior sheets and just got them the other day. I'll post pics on here soon, but let me say that they are excellent! His screen name on starshipmodeler is "johnnycrash". 

Here are links to images of his photoetch parts...

http://www.coldnorth.com/johnnycrash/mmi-1880.jpg
http://www.coldnorth.com/johnnycrash/mmi-1881.jpg
http://www.coldnorth.com/johnnycrash/mmi-1882.jpg


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Krako, do you have a link to those photoetched parts over ar SSM?


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

I ordered mine by PM'ing johnnycrash over at SSM. He'll need your Paypal info...


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

Whoa, those are badass. What's the part on the right of the first sheet, I can't figure it out. Also.... how much were they?


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## Nova Designs (Oct 10, 2000)

BTW, BigJim... your deflector looks fantastic, you really nailed that low power mode color!


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

Nova Designs said:


> Whoa, those are badass. What's the part on the right of the first sheet, I can't figure it out. Also.... how much were they?


They look like details for the aft end of the engines.


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## GLU Sniffah (Apr 15, 2005)

bigjimslade said:


> They look like details for the aft end of the engines.


Yes. The endcaps for the warp nacelles would be my guess.


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

I don't remember the exact prices, but I think I paid around $37.00 for the two exterior sheets.


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## cinc2020 (May 10, 2004)

Raytheon is right - "my" technique works for all windows, including those with complicated geometries. If you do it right, the windows are very transparent and very shiny.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Cinc, could you detail your technique again, for those of us who are a bit slow this morning (that means me


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

cinc2020 said:


> Why not fill the large holes with clear plastic, sand both the outside and inside after filling gaps with putty, then polish. WHen you're ready to paint the exterior, simply cut out window masks from masking tape and apply. When painting is finished and the masks removed, you have perfect windows.


... and regarding a 3D recessed window effect, I think that the thickness of paint is good enough on a 1/350 ship. Maybe even _that _ is overscale, depending on how you paint.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

Krako said:


> Not sure if folks are aware of this or not, but there are also some fantastic photoetch parts now available for the PL refit from a guy over on starshipmodeler.com. I ordered his two exterior sheets and just got them the other day. I'll post pics on here soon, but let me say that they are excellent! His screen name on starshipmodeler is "johnnycrash".
> 
> Here are links to images of his photoetch parts...
> 
> ...


I'd sure like to get a set too. Any chance you can get this guy to post on this site if he is interested in orders? I would order one or two. I can't find him on starship modeler.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

I alerted John Fleming (johnnycrash) to the recent interest in his PE set, but he's rather busy. I'd assume he is interested in orders. 

Here's his website:
http://www.coldnorth.com/millennia_models/


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

SteveR said:


> I alerted John Fleming (johnnycrash) to the recent interest in his PE set, but he's rather busy. I'd assume he is interested in orders.
> 
> Here's his website:
> http://www.coldnorth.com/millennia_models/


I went to the web site and sent him an e-mail. We'll see what he says.


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## Opus Penguin (Apr 19, 2004)

I got a response. He stated he hasn't released the product on his web site yet because he does not have instructions printed out yet. However, you can purchase them from him. Just go to the site and e-mail him and he will provide the cost. It is a little more than $37 though. I believe it was more closer to $50 for all three. However, you can purchase them individually and shipping is $2.50.


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

That sounds right. I only purchased the two exterior sheets and it was around $37 for me.


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## cinc2020 (May 10, 2004)

*Windows*

As requested, for those interested:

Using liquid cement, glue the clear plastic bits into the appropriate holes. Fill gaps between clear part and hull part using favorite filler (Zap, putty, Milliput, etc.). Let dry. Sand both the inside and outside of hull until smooth. Use rough sandpaper, then graduate to finer grades (you know the routine). Polish with any polishing compound using flannel or Q-tip until smooth and very shiny.

When ready to paint the hull, cut out small circular, oval, or square masks using X-Acto knife or punch and die set (like Waldrons). This keeps all ports a standard size, too, by the way. Paint. Remove masks to reveal ports. The effect will be a seamless, smooth finish across the entire hull. There will be an ever so slight difference in smoothness due to paint thickness, but this adds to the effect by implying the windows are slightly recessed. The windows should not bulge out or sink too much in relative to the hull (which is what happens if you use the clear plastic bits and don't do anything with them). Look at the windows on a commercial airliner as an example (the external side, obviously). The windows are virtually flush with the fuselage (this is for aerodynamics, of course).

The same technique works for any size and shape of clear plastic. I've used it for a B-52 windshield with great effect. Soon, I hope to post pictures of my 350 Refit, and I will provide close ups of window areas.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Regarding the masks, you can also do up some circles (and stretched circles) in Illustrator and send them to a company that does laser-cut signs on adhesive vinyl. 

Burry signs (in Toronto) did a set for my AMT smoothie. You have to use the release paper (from the sign company) to make it work. It's like frisket, only you rub it on the vinyl sheet over the circle, then peel it off, hopefully taking the circle with it. Then you position it on the model, looking through the translucent transfer paper, and transfer the circle to the model. You can pick it off and move it a bit before you burnish it.


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## Heavens Eagle (Jun 30, 2003)

Looks good Jim. Seems I remember something about how you did the deflector dish lighting, but can't seem to find it now.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

cinc2020 said:


> As requested, for those interested:
> 
> Using liquid cement, glue the clear plastic bits into the appropriate holes. Fill gaps between clear part and hull part using favorite filler (Zap, putty, Milliput, etc.). Let dry. Sand both the inside and outside of hull until smooth. Use rough sandpaper, then graduate to finer grades (you know the routine). Polish with any polishing compound using flannel or Q-tip until smooth and very shiny.
> 
> ...



Thanks cinc

Do you have a part number for that punch and die set? Or a direct link? Is it the subminature set?


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

Raist3001 said:


> Thanks cinc
> 
> Do you have a part number for that punch and die set? Or a direct link? Is it the subminature set?


I would hurry if you want a Waldron Punch and Die. They put an announcement in FSM that they were going out of business.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

bigjimslade said:


> I would hurry if you want a Waldron Punch and Die. They put an announcement in FSM that they were going out of business.



Does anyone know which set will be able to make masks as small as 1MM? As needed for the PL refit?


http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=WR0018

http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=WR0019


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## ArthurPendragon (Jan 4, 2004)

Raist3001 said:


> Does anyone know which set will be able to make masks as small as 1MM? As needed for the PL refit?
> 
> 
> http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=WR0018
> ...



No viewport, at the PL Refit model, is 1 mm in diameter ...


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

ArthurPendragon said:


> No viewport, at the PL Refit model, is 1 mm in diameter ...


Do you know what size they may be? And what size they will be after I fill the gaps surrounding them?


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Primary perimeter circular portholes are around .092", secondary hull are around .086". This is the diameter of the hole, not the clear insert.

You could say it's around .090", give or take.

So that's about 2.28 mm.


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## Heavens Eagle (Jun 30, 2003)

I picked up the Waldron punch sets years ago. They are a very useful tool but must be used with some care. When used properly with the right materials they should last quite a long time.


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## ArthurPendragon (Jan 4, 2004)

Raist3001 said:


> Do you know what size they may be? And what size they will be after I fill the gaps surrounding them?



The circular viewports are supposed to be 1.9 mm or 2 mm in 1/350 scale.

Use # 3 Waldron punch.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

ArthurPendragon said:


> The circular viewports are supposed to be 1.9 mm or 2 mm in 1/350 scale.
> 
> Use # 3 Waldron punch.


So that is not the Waldroms sub miniature set

http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=WR0019

It is the regular set?

http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=WR0018


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## ArthurPendragon (Jan 4, 2004)

Raist3001 said:


> It is the regular set?
> 
> http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=WR0018


Yes !

And to be honest, I would gladly buy a set of vinyl masks for all viewports. It would save us a lot of time and work.


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## drewid142 (Apr 23, 2004)

LOU... GET ON IT! We want masking templates for the windows!


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

If Lou's not doing a run of those, I can whip off one. I've already done a set for my AMT refit.

Any other takers?

(Gotta work out the price and vendor thing, though.)


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

I'd take a set.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*like this?*

I'm was working on a supplemental sheet of stuff for the refit including window masks as well as light blocking strips for the inboard warp nacelles and the "stripes" around the saucer. I had put it on the side burner, but now that I know there is a demand, nay OUTCRY, I think I'll move it back to the front of the line

Dummy


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

I knew it! Go Lou!


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*I do windows*

OK Guys, Raist has been sent a quicky set of windows. When he gives the "thumbs up" i'll work them up into a new sheet. I noticed that they are also the same size as the 350 scale NX-01's windows, so if there is anybody left out there who hasn't built theirs yet, they could use these to mask the windows on that kit, too.


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## Krako (Jun 6, 2003)

Lou - will these be available at Cult's website, or directly from you?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

probably Cult's and Federation Models, if they are interested. (Plus any other retailers who'd be interested..Hint, Hint) 

I tried to do it my self back in the old days and it just took up too much of my time and energies. plus the whole international shipping and currency issues are best left to the professionals.

Along with the windows, I'm also planning on including light blocking strips for the inboard warp nacelles and painting masks for the deflector dish and impulse engines. can you think of anything else you'd like to see?

Oh, and a mask for the "stripes" around the saucer's edge.


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

Much appreciated Lou 

I'll get you guys an update just as soon as I am able to use the masks.


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## SteveR (Aug 7, 2005)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Can you think of anything else you'd like to see?


How about:

- masks for the cargo bay turbolifts? 
(for those of us using clear acrylic rod)

- masks for the officers' lounge?
(for those of us creating flush clear windows there)

- masks for the arboretum windows?
(for flush clear windows there too)


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

SteveR said:


> How about:
> 
> - masks for the cargo bay turbolifts?
> (for those of us using clear acrylic rod)
> ...


I concur. I'd like to have those windows flush on the refit like the studio model, so masks would be a big help there. 

But what I would really like to see is the aztec templates for the 1/350th refit made with lowtak vinyl if possible. Not that I have experianced any serious problem with the base coat pulling up or anything with the current ones you make, it's just that I noticed you provide lowtak vinyl templates for the smaller scale models like the PL 1/1000 NX-01 and the 1/1000 klingon cruiser. I think it would be great if the 1/350 scale templates were made like the smaller ones. Anyways just a thought.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*windows*

Lounge, Arboretum, Rec deck..these are already in the "windows" category so they're already part of the set.

I figured that was a "no-brainer"  

turbo lift? interesting, I'll add it. also I forgot on Raist's set to include the red lights above the shuttlebay doors, those will be included.


SteveR, believe it or not, all of the vinyl I use is the same. Only the color changes as I buy new rolls. I think the reason why the 1000 scale pieces react differently is the size of the final cut pieces. less surface area means less adhesion. At least that's my guess


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

The Trekmodeler said:


> But what I would really like to see is the aztec templates for the 1/350th refit made with lowtak vinyl if possible. Not that I have experianced any serious problem with the base coat pulling up or anything with the current ones you make



I also would just like to say that I have not had any problems with Lou's templates pulling up my base coat. And I place them on my surface as is. I even tested on some scrap to see if I could create this problem. And the only instance in which I could do so was when I did not allow my basecoat enough drying time. I even allowed the templates to sit on my scrap surface for a week before removing. No base coat pull up.


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Well, I'm not insinuating anything. I just feel like the risk is always there. I must insist that the smaller scale templates _ARE _ less sticky(at least the couple of sets I have used of them anyway) but not the larger ones. No sir, they are a lot stickier. 

I could easily back this up by the fact that I have taken a piece of the 1/350 scale templates and another piece from the smaller scale templates of equal size to eliminate the whole "surface area theory" (which I already had) and applied them both to a scrap area (which has been painted and since dried for weeks). Turns out the piece from the larger scale ones did in fact adhere stronger to the surface and was obviously tougher to pull out. But, take this as nothing more than one more suggestion for your customer suggestion box.


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*battle of the bats*

just to step in. 
the vinyl I use is the same make, model and year (I feel like I'm channeling Lane Smith from "My Cousin Vinny" *smacks hands* "IDENTICAL!" )

the only difference you could be seeing would be on the manufacturer's end as far as differing lot batches. or variences from color to color. Or age or how long you let the sheets lay out in the sun or what ever


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

The Trekmodeler said:


> Well, I'm not insinuating anything. I just feel like the risk is always there.



Oh I was not implying that you were insinuating anything. I was agreeing with your initial statement and adding my own


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## The Trekmodeler (Jul 21, 2005)

Raist3001 said:


> Oh I was not implying that you were insinuating anything. I was agreeing with your initial statement and adding my own


Raist, no battle intended man. I just saw an oppurtunity to share my imput and suggestion. 

Your work is superb all over. Keep it up dude! :thumbsup:


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## klgonsneedbotox (Jun 8, 2005)

Just a thought...sometimes air temperature can affect the adhesive material.

We applied similarly constructed vinyl stickers to the walls in our son's room. One of the walls was an "outside" wall. When we attempted to remove these stickers (that are supposed to be easily removable), we had a devil of a time. This wall is colder than the other walls.

It's just a thought...it may have no bearing on your situation...

I'd definitely be up for a set of window masks!


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## Tordoc (Apr 27, 2003)

Lou, all this talk of sticky vinyl has me worried. I'm a very slow worker. I'd like to put templates down and spray once, but my life is so busy it could take weeks (or months) to do it. Can the templates stay on the model that long and still come off easily?

Ken


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*better safe than sorry*

Tor,
I always recommend leaving them on a short a time as possible. that being said, I recently finished a batch of weenx-es that I had painted and azteked months ago and as I was putting on the final dull coat I spotted a piece of vinyl that I had forgotten to peel up. I slowly, carefully pulled it up and there was no paint problem. Now it was a small piece, but it came up just fine.

I still gotta say, tho that I still wouldn't put down more pieces than you can paint and peel up in one evening


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

*addendum*

the window set we're talking about here would be the exception to the rule. because you are covering clear plastic and not a paint undercoat, you could leave these puppies in place for as long as you need without the same worries


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

I have left my aztec templates on my saucer for about 2 weeks before taking them off. I had not encountered any paint lift off issues.


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

*Based-etched engine grills*

I think I managed to create some base-etched engine grills out of brass to replace the decals.

I put 20 on the sheet of which about 4 came out usable. They all need a little cleanup so will see.

Unfortunately, I can't find my #$#$ digital camera right now or I'd show you folks.


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## marc111 (Nov 10, 2005)

Lou,
Any update on the availability of the windows masks? Would love to get some.
Thanks,
Mark


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Marc,
The big news is I've released a complete new version 2.0 of the refit template set which not only "corrects" the main aztek pattern ( the tops are "W's" now in stead of "U's") but now includes window masks including temporary covers for both the deflector and the impulse engines (both standard and DLM's re-do) so you can protect those areas from overspray while you paint the rest of the ship.

the 2.0 sets are now available in the usual places. the price is still the same.

I thought about releasing just a "revision set" that had only the new stuff but then i worked it out that the new stuff still takes up 4 sheets. the whole set is only 6 sheets, so I'm thinking that you can get the new set and use the leftover from the original set to add more levels to the main patterns.

cheers,
lou


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## sdhlaw1701 (Jun 20, 2005)

Lou Dalmaso said:


> Marc,
> The big news is I've released a complete new version 2.0 of the refit template set which not only "corrects" the main aztek pattern ( the tops are "W's" now in stead of "U's") but now includes window masks including temporary covers for both the deflector and the impulse engines (both standard and DLM's re-do) so you can protect those areas from overspray while you paint the rest of the ship.
> 
> the 2.0 sets are now available in the usual places. the price is still the same.
> ...


Wow, I don't want to sound pissy but I feel like I've been taken for a ride, I purchased Lou's Aztec templates when I purchased my refit (almost a year ago, yes its taken that long for me :tongue: ) so I spend an extra $50 for the tempates, because I am trying to make my refit as accurate as possible (its going to be displayed in an office), only to find out these templates were not as accurate and now I have to spend another $50 to get a "corrected" main pattern. That is kind of a tough pill to swallow.

I would suggest to Lou and the rest of the retailers, out of good faith, offer an exchange of the old 1.0 templates for the new 2.0 templates, provided that the 1.0 templates are complete and unused. 

Thats just my two cents.
SDHLaw1701 :wave:


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## Raist3001 (Oct 23, 2003)

sdhlaw1701 said:


> Wow, I don't want to sound pissy but I feel like I've been taken for a ride, I purchased Lou's Aztec templates when I purchased my refit (almost a year ago, yes its taken that long for me :tongue: ) so I spend an extra $50 for the tempates, because I am trying to make my refit as accurate as possible (its going to be displayed in an office), only to find out these templates were not as accurate and now I have to spend another $50 to get a "corrected" main pattern. That is kind of a tough pill to swallow.
> 
> I would suggest to Lou and the rest of the retailers, out of good faith, offer an exchange of the old 1.0 templates for the new 2.0 templates, provided that the 1.0 templates are complete and unused.
> 
> ...


Come on dude. How could you not have exptected the man to improve upon his product. It's been well over a year now. With a little elbow grease, you can make the patterns you have now just as accurate.


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## drewid142 (Apr 23, 2004)

Thank goodness there are guys like Lou out there making products like thse so we aren't spending weeks cutting out our own! I've got the old one's... but I like Lou's suggestion about using it to make additional layers to the effect. God knows when I'll actually start work on MY refit... but I'm doing some cool work on my 1/1000 TOS and I've got Lou's templates for that as well!


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## bigjimslade (Oct 9, 2005)

*Here's one etched grill*

Still can't find the camera so I used the scanner.


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## Tordoc (Apr 27, 2003)

*Do the Aztek Dummy templates "age"*

What I mean is: 

If I by them now but don't use them for a year or so, will the adhesive change? Will they be harder to work with? Do they have a life span?


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## Lou Dalmaso (Jul 13, 2004)

Tordoc,
Yes they will age, but not nearly on a scale that you will notice, and actually, the longer you wait the less sticky the adhesive will be. 

About the only thing you dont want to do with them is leave them out in the hot sun. they're only guaranteed for 5 years that way.  also don't leave them in a hot car. 

beyond that, my only warning is that you shouldn't leave them in place over paint for any longer than you absolutlely have to. and be gentle when you peel them up

Cheers,
Lou


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## Tordoc (Apr 27, 2003)

Sold! Now where can I get them? Is there a Canadian distributer?


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## frontline (May 4, 2005)

Lou,
Forgive my ignorance, but where exactly are the "usual" places where I can get these?


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

Doh! Looks like I was about a month too soon in ordering mine. Looks like I'll have to go about masking my windows some other way...liquid mask or Elmer's glue, I guess.


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## colhero (May 18, 2006)

Where's everybody's pics? An online gallery like http://www.photosite.com is a perfect way to showxase your progress. http://mw469.photosite.com/ Trek On :thumbsup:


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## vaderknight (Nov 8, 2005)

I'm getting close to assembling all the major pieces together. What I'm worried about is masking the windows, engines, etc. What does everybody use to mask the clear parts when it's time to work on the aztec painting?


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## Ruckdog (Jan 17, 2006)

I was wondering about that myself. If I read correctly, Lou has said above that the new version of his masks will have all the tiny circles needed to mask the windows. I've also heard that a drop of Elmer's white glue does an effective mask job and can be removed with little effort after painting. The other technique I've read about is using commercial liquid masking solution that is found in hobby stores. 

Personally, I've had no experience with any of these methods. On my NX-01, I did all the painting before assembly, so this wasn't an issue. ON the refit, though, I want to assemble the secondary hull before painting so that I can fill and sand the gaps that I know I am going to have there. Thus, I too could really use some guidance!


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## omnimodel (Oct 9, 2004)

Fortunately, the paint pattern on the Refit's secondary hull lends itself to the following trick. I used this method on my Ertl kit:

1) Paint the areas around the windows before assembly
2) Install the clear inserts (or epoxy) 
3) Cut randomly sized squares of blue masking tape, and use them to cover the painted areas around the windows
4) Assemble, putty, paint, and aztec as normal.
5) Remove the masking tape.

If done properly, the previously masked areas around the windows will blend into the 'random rectangles' aztec pattern of the secondary hull.


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## vaderknight (Nov 8, 2005)

I've heard about the Elmer's glue tip, but I haven't tried it yet. I did use fabric paint for the Arboretum lights, but it will tear the wrong way most of the time.


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## Dogman_D (Apr 14, 2006)

I'm using Ambroids EZ Mask. the directions say to apply with a a small tip paint brush but giving the size of the portholes on the primary hall I used a rounded toothpick to apply 2 coats.


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## vaderknight (Nov 8, 2005)

It may sound silly, but that's what I use for all my detail work.


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